From the Library of Frank Simpson HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN SPAIN. PAET L \ 4 HANDBOOK FOE TRAVELLERS SIXTH EDITION, REVISED ON THE SPOT. PART I. WITH MAPS AND PLANS. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. PARIS: G ALIGN AN I & CO.; AND BOY VE ALL GIBRALTAR : GEORGE ROWSWELL.— LISBON : LEWTAS. 1882. IN BY RICHARD FORD, F.S.A. QuiEN DICE ESPANA — DICE TODO. The right of Translation is reserved. THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OF THE FOLLOWING AGENTS*, In Belgium , Holland , and Germany AIX-LA- MAYER. LEIPZIG . BROCKHAUS.— TWIETMEYER. OHAPELLE . MANNHEIM . . BENDER & FONTAINE. — AMSTERDAM . MULLER. — KIRBERGEB. LOFFLER. — KOTTER. ANTWERP . . MERTENS. METZ . • . ALCAN. BADEN-BADEN . MARX. MUNICH . MANZ. — ACKERMANN. — BERLIN . , ASHER. — MITSCHEB & ROS- KAISER. TELL. NtJRNBERG • SCHRAG.— ZEISER. BRUSSELS • . KIESSLING. PESTH . • • HABTLEBEN.— G. HECKENA8T. CARLSRUHE . . A. BIELEFELD. — OSTERLAMM. — RATH. COLOGNE « . GREVEN.— DUMONT. — EISEN. PRAGUE • • CALVE. DRESDEN . BURDACH.— PIERSON. ROTTERDAM • KRAMERS.—PETRI.— ROBBERS. FRANKFURT . JUG EL. STRASSBURG GRUCKER. — TRUBNEB. GRATZ . . LEUSCHNER & LUBENSKY. STUTTGART . . METZLER. — NEFF. THE HAGUE . NIJHOFF. TRIESTE . • COEN. - SCHIMPFF. HAMBURG . . MAUKE SOHNE. VIENNA • , GEROLD. — BRAUMtJLLEB. HEIDELBERG . MOHR. WIESBADEN . • KREIDEL. In Switzerland . Bale • . GEORG. — AMBERGER. LUCERNE , KAISER. BERNE . DALP. — JENT & REINERT. NEUCHATEL . GERSTER. COTRE , GRUBENMANN, SCHAFFHAUSEN , HURTER. CONSTANCE . . MECK. SOLEURE . . JENT. GENEVA . MONROE(METFORD).— SANDOZ. ST. GALLEN . . HUBER. — H. GEORG. ZURICH • , ORELL FUESSLI & CO.— MEYER LAUSANNE . , ROUSSY. & ZELLER. — LEUTHOLD. In Italy . BOLOGNA . ZANICHELLI. PARMA • - ZANGHIERI. FLORENCE * . GOODBAN. — LOESCHER. PISA . . . NISTRI.— JOS. VANNUCCHI. GENOA „ GRONDONA.— ANTOINE BEUF. l’ERUGIA . . VINCENZ.— BARTELLI. LEGHORN , . MAZZAJOLI. ROME , , , SPITHOVER. — PIALE. — MO- LUCCA . BARON. NALDINI. — LOESCHER. MANTUA . NEGRETTI. SIENA . , . ONORATO PORRI. MILAN , SACCHI. — DUMOLARD. — TURIN . . MAGGI. — L. BEUF. — BOCCA nOEPLI. FRERES. — LOESCHER. MODENA . . VINCENZI & ROSSI. NAPLES . . BRITISH LIBRARY (DORANT). VENICE . ONGANIA. — COEN. — MEIUER8. — HOEPLI. — FURCHHEIM. PALERMO . . PEDONE. VERONA • . MUNSTER.— MEINERS. In France. AMIENS • . CARON. LYONS • , AYNfi. — SCHEURING. — Mf RA. ANGERS . . BARASSE. MARSEILLES. . CAMOIN FRERES.— MEUN TER. AVIGNON . CLEMENT ST. JUST. NANTES PETIPAS. — POIRIER LEGROS. AVRANCHES . . ANFRAY. — ANDRfi. BORDEAUX . . CHAUMAS. — MULLER.— SAU- NICE . , . BARBERY FRERES. — JOUGLA. VAT. — FERET. — G ALIGN ANI. BOULOGNE . . MERRIDEW. ORLEANS « . GATINEAU. — PESTY. CAEN • . BOISARD. — HERVIEU. PARIS . • . GALIGNANI.— BOYVEAU. PAU . • . LAFON. CALAIS . RIGAUX CAUX. RHEIMS , BRISSART BINET.— GEOFFROY, CANNES . ROBANDY. — GIRET. CHERBOURG . . LECOUFFLET. ROUEN , , LEBRUMENT.— HAULARD. DIEPPE , . MARAIS. ST. ETIENNE. . DELARUE. DINANT . COSTE. ST. MALO . HUE. DOUAI . JACQUART.— LEMlLE. 6T. QUENTIN . DOLOY. GRENOBLE . . VELLOT ET COMP. TOULON , * MONGE ET VILLAMUS. HAVRE » BOURDIGNON. — FOUCHEB. — TOULOUSE . . GIMET ET COTELLE. BUYS. TOURS , , GEORGET. LILLE . . . BEGRIN. ■ TROYE8 . # LALOY.— DUFEY ROBERT. In Spain and Portugal. GIBRALTAR . . ROWSWELL. 1 MADRID , , DURAN.— BAILLIERE. LISBON . LEWTAS. MALAGA . . DE MOYA. In Russia , Sweden , Denmark , and Norway. ST. PETERSBURG , WATKINS. — WOLFF. ' ODESSA , . CAMOIN. MOSCOW . GAUTIER. — DEUBNEB. — CHRISTIANIA . CAMMEEMEYER.— BENNETT. LANG. STOCKHOLM . • SAMSON & WALLIN. — FRITZ. At Malta. In the Ionian Islands. At Constantinople. CRITIEN. — WATSON. — CALLEJA. CORFU . J. W. TAYLOR. WICK A WEISS. In Greece. > [A ^ At Alexandria and Cairo ATHENS— KARL WILDBERG. ' ALEXANDRIA BOOK CO. In India . I CALCUTTA — THACKER, SPINK, & CO. BOMBAY— THACKER & CO., LIMITED. PREFACE. Since the publication of the first Edition of this Guide, time and events have effected changes little anticipated by its author. The general intro- duction of Bail ways throughout Spain, the improvement of roads and circulation of steamers along the coasts, have revolutionized the mode of travelling. In consequence of this, the whole arrangement of the Routes ^f the Handbook required to be altered. Moreover, inns and conveyances have multiplied and improved, many of the difficulties and inconveniences of travelling have been diminished or removed, the time and the expense required have been reduced. Above all, security in travelling has been ensured by the establishment all over Spain of a police force based on the model of our own and that of the Irish constabulary, and thoroughly efficient in the performance of its duties. Under such circumstances, a thorough revision of the Handbook could be effected only on the spot. This has been the course pursued in the present and preceding Editions, and the results will be apparent in every page of the present Edition. In this volume have been included some of the most interesting passages from Ford’s c Gatherings in Spain,’ one of the happiest productions of their lamented author ; as well as many extracts from the Second Part of the Handbook, now out of print. Several of the descriptions of the Battles of the English in the Peninsula were written on the spot by a military officer. An elaborate Travelling Map of Spain, from the latest surveys, has been prepared expressly for this Edition, and many Plans of cities, &c., have been added. To those of our countrymen and women who have exhausted the cities. VI Preface . the plains, and the mountains, of Switzerland, Italy, and the Rhine, we would remark that Spain in 1882 is as easy of access, as free from personal dangers , and in most respects well supplied with the indispensable conveniences of civilized life. We would especially refer English travellers in Spain to § 17 of our Preliminary Remarks : a due attention to the hints as to conduct, &c., therein contained, will ensure deference, attention, and kindly assistance to both lady and gentleman tourist throughout the length and breadth of the Peninsula. Errors and omissions may still exist in a description of a country so rapidly undergoing change, and the Editor urgently solicits the favour of Travellers sending him notes of any mistakes which they may discover while using this Handbook, addressed to the care of Mr, Murray, September , 1882, CONTENTS OF PART I. Preliminary Information .. . Pages [1] to [78] BOUTES. [The names of places are printed in black only in those Routes where the places themselves are described.] Section I. — Madrid and the Castiles (Old and New). Page 1. ROUTE PAGE 1 Bayonne to Madrid, by San Sebastian, Vitoria, Burgos, Valladolid, and Avila. Pail 4 2 Madrid and its Environs . . 33 3 Madrid to the Escorial, La Granja, and Segovia. Pail and Diligence . . . . . . 86 % Madrid to Toledo. Pail .. 103 4AMadrid to Aranjuez. Rail . . 123 5 Madrid to Cuenca, by Taran- con. Diligence and Railway 125 6 Cuenca to Valencia, by Min- glanilla. Tartana or Horse- back 133 7 Cuenca to Madrid, by Sacedon. Horseback, Diligence, and Rail 135 8 Cuenca to Teruel. Horseback 136 9 Teruel to Calatayud, by Da- roca. Diligence 138 10 Teruel to Valencia, by Segorbe. Horseback, or Diligence and Rail 139 12 Madrid to Talaveradela Reina. Rail . 140 13 Avila to Plasencia, to Bejar. Horseback 143 15 Salamanca to Zamora. Rail and Diligence . . . . . . 144 16 Salamanca to Ciudad Rodrigo 149 17 Salamanca to Eregeneda, on the Frontiers of Portugal. Horseback .. 152 route . page 18 Medina del Campo to Sala- manca ; the Battle-field, Alba de Tormes, and the Baths of Ledesma. Rail or Dili- gence .. ..152 19 Medina del Campo to Zamora. Rail 165 20 Valladolid to Toro, by Si- mancas and Tordesillas. Dili- gence . 166 21 Valladolid to Benavente, by Medina de Rio-Seco. Dili- gence 168 22 Medina del Campo to Segovia, by Olmedo and La Granja. Railway in course of con- struction 170 23 San Ohidrian to Madrid — - Passage of the Guadarrama Mountains. Horseback .. 171 24 Venta de Banos to Santander, by Palencia and Reinosa. Rail.. 171 25 Santander to the Baths of Puente Viesgo, Ontaneda, andAlceda. Rail and Diligence 178 26 Burgos to Logrono, by Navar- rete. Horseback 17S 27 Burgos to Madrid, by Lerma, Aranda de Duero, and Somo- sierra. Carriage-road.. .. 180 28 Burgos to Santander. Dili- . gence and Rail 183 Till Contents of Part L Section II. — The Basque Provinces. Page 184. ROUTE PAGE 33 Miranda to Bilbao, by Orduna and Arrigorriaga. Bail . . 188 34 San Sebastian to Bilbao : (A.) by Zarauz, Zumaya, Deva, Motrico, Lequeito, and Guer- nica. Diligence. (B.) by Zarauz, Baths of Cestona, Azpeitia, Santa Casa de Loy- ola, Elgoibar, and Durango. Diligence-road .. .. .. 192 35 Tolosa to Bilbao. Diligence 196 36 Vitoria to Bilbao, by Ochan- diano. Diligence-road .. 196 ROUTE PAGE 37 Bilbao to Santander, by So- morrostro, Laredo, and San- tona. Diligence 197 38 Bilbao to Villareal, by Ver- gara. Diligence 198 39 Villareal to Zumaya, by the Convent of Loyola and Baths of Cestona. Diligence .. U8 40 Villareal to Arechavaleta, by the Baths of Santa Agueda and Mondragon. Diligence during the bathing season . . 199 Section III. — Leon. The Asturias. Galicia. Page 200. 45 Venta de Bahos to Leon, by Paredes de Nava and Saha- gun. Rail 46 Leon to Lugo, by Astorga, Ponferrada, and Villafranca del Vierzo. Rail and Dili- gence 47 Leon to Oviedo, by Busdongo, Pajares, and Puente de los Fierros. Rail and Diligence 48 Oviedo to Gijon. Rail. Ex- cursions to Villa viciosa. Dili- gence 49 Oviedo to Santander, by Torre- lavega. Diligence 49AOviedo to Unquera, by Cova- donga and the Picos de Europa 50 Lugo to Oviedo, by Villalba, Mondonedo, and Villanueva. Rivadeo and Aviles. Horse- back 51 Oviedo to Villafranca, by Cangas de Tineo and Puerto de Leitariegos. Horseback and Diligence 53 206 54 55 216 56 57 226 58 233 59 236 60 239 61 62 247 64 65 249 Lugo to La Coruna, by Be- tanzos. Rail 251 La Coruna to El Ferrol, by Betanzos and Ponte d’Eume. Rail and Diligence . . . . 254 Lugo to Santiago. Diligence 257 La Coruna to Santiago. Dili- gence 265 Santiago to Cape Finisterre. Horseback .. 265 Santiago to Vigo, by Carril and Pontevedra. Rail and Diligence .. 266 Vigo to Orense, by Tuy and Rivadavia. Rail 270 Orense to Pontevedra. Rail and Diligence 272 Orense to Santiago. Diligence 272 Orense to Zamora, by Canda, La Puebla de Sanabria, and Mombuey. Diligence.. .. 273 Zamora to Braganza. Dili- gence and Horseback .. . 274 Zamora to Benavente. Dili- gence-road 274 Section IV. — Estremadura. Page 275. 70 Madrid to Badajoz, by Ciudad Real, Almaden, and Merida. Rail 279 71 Badajoz to Lisbon, by Elvas, Crato, Abrantes, and Santa- rem. Rail 287 72 Badajoz to Olivenza. Dili- gence. Road 288 73 Badajoz to Seville, by La Al- buera and El Ronquillo . . 289 74 Madrid to Lisbon, by Naval- moral, Plasencia. Excursions Contents of Part II. Section IY. — continued. IX ROUTE PAGE to Alcantara, Yuste, Trujillo and Caceres, Yicente de Al- cantara, and Oporto .. .. 291 77 Plasencia to Ciudad Rodrigo, by Abadia and Batuecas. Horseback 298 ROUTE PAGE 78 Merida to Trujillo 299 79 Merida to Seville, by Zafra and Llerena. Horseback .. 300 80 Trujillo to Logrosan and Gua- dalupe. Diligence-road .. 301 PAST II. Section Y. — Andalucia. Page 305. 85 Madrid to Cordova, by Al- cazar de San Juan, Manza- nares, Valdepenas, Vadollano, Menjibar, and Andujar. Rail ..308 86 Cordova to Seville. Rail . . 321 87 Seville to Cadiz, by Utrera and Jerez. Rail 354 88 Seville to Cadiz, by San Lucar. River 363 91 Cordova to the Baths of Car- ratraca, by Gobantes. Rail and Diligence during the bathing season .. .. .. 364 93 Seville to Huelva and Mines of Rio Tinto: Excursion to La Rabida. Rail . . . . . . 365 94 Jerez to Arcos. Carriage- road 369 95 San Lucar de Barrameda to San Lucar de Guadiana, and the frontier of Portugal. Horseback 369 96 Cadiz to Gibraltar, by San Fernando, Chiclana, Medina Sidonia, and Algeciras. Dili- gence and Steamboat .. .. 370 97 San Fernando to Algeciras and Gibraltar, by Chiclana, Conil, and Tarifa. Diligence and Steamboat 380 98 Gibraltar to Ceuta, Tangier, and Tetuan. Steamboat and Horseback 385 Section YL— Rond a and Granada. Page 390. 103 Madrid to Granada, by Cor- dova, Rail ; or by Jaen, Dili- gence 393 103AGranada to Lanjaron — As- cent of the Sierra Nevada .. 419 103BMarchena to Ecija .. .. 426 104 Seville to Granada, by Utrera, Marchena, Osuna, La Roda, and Antequera. Rail .. .. 426 105 Seville to Carmona, by Alcala de Guadaira. Rail . . . . 428 106 Cordova to Malaga, by Mon- tilla. Rail 430 107 Malaga to Gibraltar, by Mar- bella and Estepona. Carriage- road and Horseback . . . . 437 108 Malaga to Granada, by Loja. 68 m. by Road 439 109 Malaga to Granada, by Al- hama. Carriage -road and Horseback 440 110 Malaga to Ronda, by Goban- tes. Rail and Diligence . . 441 111 Ronda to Gibraltar, by Gaucin and San Roque. Horse- back 444 112 Ronda to Seville, by Utrera and Moron. Horseback and Rail 446 113 Ronda to Seville, by Zahara and Coronil. Horseback and Rail 447 X Contents of Part II. Section VI. — continued. ROUTE PAGE 114 Granada to Motril. Dili- gence 447 115 Granada to Almeria, by Gua- dix. Diligence 448 ROUTE PAGE 116 Granada to Adra, by Lan- jaron. Carriage-road .. .. 450 117 Adra to Malaga, by Motril and Almunecar. Diligence-road 452 Section VII. — Murcia and Valencia. Page 453. 121 Madrid to Cartagena, by Ar- chena and Murcia. Rail . . 459 122 Madrid to Alicante, by La Encina. Rail 463 1 23 Madrid to Valencia, by Alca- zar, Albacete, Almansa, and Jativa. Rail 464 124 Granada to Murcia, by Baza and Lorca. Diligence-road 481 125 Cartagena to Alicante, by Orilmela and Elche. Dili- gence 483 126 Alicante to Valencia, by Al- coy. Diligence 484 127 Valencia to Denia, by Silla. Rail and Horseback . . . . 485 128 Castellon to Morelia. Dili- gence-road .. .. .. .. 486 Section VIII. — Catalonia. Page 487. 134 Valencia to Tarragona, by Murviedro, Castellon, and Tortosa. Rail 491 135 Tarragona to Lerida, by Reus and Poblet. Rail and Dili- gence 501 136 Tarragona to Barcelona, by Martorell. Rail, &e. . . . . 503 136a Barcelona to the Monastery of Montserrat 515 136b Barcelona to Villanueva and Vails .. .. 517 137 Perpignan to Barcelona, by Gerona. A. Coast line, by Arenys. B. Inland line, by Granollers. Rail 517 138 Barcelona to TJrgel and Puig- cerda. Rail and Diligence . . 523 139 Barcelona to San Juan de las Abadesas, by Vich and Ripoll. Rail 524 140 Barcelona to Toulouse, by Ribas and Puigcerda. Rail, Horseback, and Carriage . . 525 142 Barcelona to Ax, by Urgell and Andorra. Rail, Diligence, &c. 525 143 Barcelona to Lerida, by Sa- badell, Monistrol, Manresa, and Bellpuig. Rail . . . . 527 144 Lerida to Fraga. Carriage- road .. 532 Section IX. — Aragon 148 Lerida to Zaragoza. Excur- sion to the Monastery of Sigena. Rail 538 148a Zaragoza to Puente de Hijar 548 149 Zaragoza to Madrid, by Cala- tayud, Alhama (Excursion to Piedra), Medinaceli, Sigii- enza, Guadalajara, and Alcala de Henares. Rail . . . . 549 150 Zaragoza to Huesca and Pan- ticosa. Rail and Diligence 558 : Navarre. Page 533. 151 Zaragoza to Barbastro and Bagneres de Luchon. Rail, Diligence, and Horseback . . 561 152 Zaragoza to Jaca, with Ex- cursion to the Monastery of San Juan de la Pena. Rail and Diligence .. .. 562 156 Calahorra to the Baths of Arnedillo, by Arnedo. Dili- gence during the bathing season .. 564 Contents of Fart II. xi Section IX. — continued. ROUTE PAGE 157 Alfaro to Soria. Diligence 564 158 Alfaro 1o the Baths of Fi- tero. Diligence during the season 565 159 Alfaro to the Baths of Gra- valos. Diligence during the season 566 160 Alfaro to Miranda del Ebro, by Calahorra, Logrono, and Haro. Eail 566 161 Soria to Madrid, by Almazan and Sigiienza. Diligence and Rail .. .. 568 162 Soria to Logroho. Diligence 569 163 Zaragoza to Pamplona, by Tudela, Castejon, and Olite. Rail 569 164 Tudela to Tarazona, with ROUTE PAGE Excursion to Moncayo and the Abbey of Veruela. Car- riage-road 574 167 Pamplona to St. Etienne de Baigorry, by Roncesvalles. Horseback 575 169 Pamplona to Logroho, by Puente de la Reina, Estella, and Viana. Excursion to Ihrache. Diligence -road .. 577 170 Pamplona to San Sebastian. Carriage-road or Rail . . . . 578 171 Pamplona to Bayonne, by Alsasua. Rail 578 172 Pamplona to Bayonne, by Sorauren, Elizondo, the Valley of Baztan, and Urdax. Car- riage-road 579 Section X. — The Balearic Isles. Page 581. a. Majorca, Palma. Excursions to Bellver, Raxa, Valldemosa, Miramar, Manacor, Arta, La Puebla, Alcudia, Pollensa, and Soller .. .. .. .. .. b. Menorca, Port Mahon. Excur- sions to the Talyots and Ciudadela e. Iviza .. d. Formentera ggg e. Cabrera /. Dragonera., 592 g .. Conejera ... 604 604 604 604 604 ( xii ) LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS. Part I. Clue Map inside the Cover. PAGE Plan of San Sebastian .. .. 8 „ Burgos to face 13 „ „ Cathedral 14 „ Valladolid 24 „ Madrid to face 33 „ „ Picture Gallery 55 „ Segovia Cathedral . . 100 „ Toledo, City of to face 104 „ „ Cathedral 113 „ Cuenca „ .. .. 129 „ Salamanca to face 153 „ Leon Cathedral .. 210 „ Oviedo 228 „ Santiago Cathedral 261 Part II. Plan of Mosque (now Cathedral), Cordoba 316 „ Seville .. to face 322 „ „ Cathedral . . 332 „ Gibraltar to face 372 „ Granada . . . . „ 395 „ The Alhambra in detail „ 397 „ „ General Plan and Generalife . . 398 Map of Chain of the Sierra Nevada to face 419 Plan of Malaga „ 431 „ Valencia .. „ 468 „ Barcelona „ 504 „ „ Cathedral 508 „ Gerona „ 519 „ Zaragoza to face 539 The Balearic Islands — Plan of Port Mahon 593 Travelling Map of Spain in Pocket at the end . A HANDBOOK FOB TRAVELLERS IN SPAIN. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. CONTENTS. PAGE § 1. SPAIN AND SPANIARDS [2] § 2. PASSPORTS [3] § 3. CUSTOM-HOUSES [3] § 4. SPANISH MONEY AND MEASURES [4] § 5. STEAM COMMUNICATIONS [7] § 6. RAILWAYS AND ROADS — DILIGENCES — BAGGAGE — HORSES AND MULES [8] § 7. POST-OFFICE AND LETTERS [11] § 8. TELEGRAPH OFFICE AND TELEGRAMS [11] § 9. SPANISH INNS: FONDA, POSADA, VENTA— BOATS AND PUBLIC CARRIAGES [12] § 10. SPANISH ROBBERS— NEW POLICE— CIVIL GUARDS .. [14] § 11. POPULATION AND REVENUE— EDUCATIONAL STATISTICS, &c [15] § 12. HINTS TO INVALIDS— CLIMATE [15] § 13. MINERAL SPRINGS AND SEA-BATHING [16] § 14. TOURS IN SPAIN [17] a. Grand Tour, p. [18]. — b. A Two-Months’ Tour through Spain, p. [19J. — c. Riding Tour in Spain, p. [19].— d. A Summer’s Tour in North Spain, p. [21]. — e. Shooting and Fishing, p. [21.]—/. A Religious- Festival Tour, p. [22], — g. An Artistical Tour, p. [22]. — h. Botany, p. [23]. — i. Antiquarian, p. [23]. — fc. Ecclesiological : parts of a Spanish church, p. [23].— 1. Dilettante, Sculpture, p. [26]. § 15. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLES [30] § 16. SPANISH LANGUAGE. Practical Sentences and Phrases . . [34] § 17. HINTS ON CONDUCT— TRAVELLING COMPANIONS . . . . [36] § 18. THE SPANISH SCHOOL OF PAINTING [42] § 19. SPANISH ARCHITECTURE [53] § 20. SPANISH LITERATURE [57] § 21. GEOLOGY AND MINERALS [63] § 22. BULL-FIGHTS [65] § 23. PHYSICAL AND MILITARY GEOGRAPHY OF THE PE- NINSULA [73] § 24. MAPS [74] § 25. EVANGELICAL WORK IN SPAIN [75] [Spain. — 1882 .] & [ 2 ] § 1 . — Spain and Spaniards . § 1. — Sfain and Spaniards. Since Spain appears, on the map, to be a square and most compact kingdom, politicians and geographers have treated it and its inhabitants as one and the same ; practically, however, this treatment of the Penin- sula is impossible, since both the political and social instincts of each once independent province vary the one from the other, no less than do the climate and productions themselves. No spick and span constitu- tion, be it printed on parchment or calico, can at once efface traditions and antipathies of a thousand years ; the accidents of localities and provincial nationalities, out of which they have sprung, remain too deeply dyed to be forthwith discharged by theorists. Spaniards may talk and boast of their country, of their Pojtria: every single individual in his heart really only loves his native province, and only considers as his fellow-countryman, supaisano — a most binding and endearing word — one born in the same locality as himself : hence it is not easy to pre- dicate much in regard to “the Spains” and Spaniards in general, which will hold quite good as to each particular portion ruled by the sovereign of Las Espanas , the plural title given to the chief of the federal union of this kingdom. Espanolismo may be said to consist in a love for a common faith and king, and in a coincidence of resistance to all foreign dictation. The deep sentiments of religion, loyalty, and inde- pendence, noble characteristics indeed, have^been sapped in our times by the influence of transpyrenean revolutions, and by Bourbon mis- government. In order to assist strangers in understanding the Peninsula and its people, some preliminary remarks are prefixed to each section or pro- vince, in which the leading characteristics of nature and man are pointed out. Two general observations may be premised. First . The People of Spain, the so-called Lower Orders, are in some respects superior to those who arrogate to themselves the title of being their Betters, and in most respects are more interesting. The masses, the least spoilt and the most national, stand like pillars amid ruins, and on them the edifice of Spain’s greatness must be reconstructed. This may have arisen, in this land of anomalies, from the peculiar policy of govern- ment in Church and State, where the possessors of religious and civil monopolies who dreaded knowledge as power, pressed heavily on the noble and rich, dwarfing down their bodies by intermarriages, and all but extinguishing their minds by Inquisitions ; while the People, over- looked in the obscurity of poverty, were allowed to grow out to their full growth like wild weeds of a rich soil. They, in fact, have long enjoyed under despotisms of Church and State, a practical and personal independence, the good results of which are evident in their stalwart frames and manly bearing. Secondly . A distinction must ever be made between the Spaniard in his individual and in his collective capacity, and still more in an official one: taken by himself, he is true and valiant: the nicety of his Pundonor , or point of personal honour, is proverbial ; to him as an individual, you may safely trust your life, fair fame, and purse. Yet history, treating of these individuals in the collective juntados , presents the foulest examples of misbehaviour in the held, of Punic bad § 2 . — Passports . § 3 . — Custom-houses. [ 3 ] faith in the cabinet, of bankruptcy and repudiation on the exchange. This may be, however, entirely owing to the deteriorating influence of bad government, by which the individual Spaniard, like the monk in a convent, has been hitherto fused into the corporate. The political atmosphere has been too infectious to avoid some corruption, and while the Spaniard individually felt that his character was only in safe keeping when in his own hands (and no man of any nation knows better then how to uphold it), yet when linked with others, his self- pride has lent itself readily to feelings of mistrust, until self-interest has been too often uppermost. From suspecting that he would be sold and sacrificed by others, he has usually been willing to float down the turbid stream like the rest : yet official employment has never entirely destroyed the private good qualities of the empleado , and he has ever been ready to do justice when appealed to as an individual. § 2.— Passports. Notwithstanding a Boyal Decree of Dec. 17, 1862, releasing foreigners entering Spain from showing a passport, a stranger is constantly required to produce one, and in remote parts of Spain may be sent to prison if he cannot produce one. A Foreign-office passport (cost 2,s.) should therefore be obtained without fail by every one about to enter the Peninsula. It ought to be vise by a Spanish Consul in London or elsewhere (fee 1 dollar). It will be useful as a proof of identity, whilst its production may be required in order to obtain letters at the post-office ; it will also facilitate an entree into palaces, picture galleries, &c., upon days and at times when such are not open to the public generally. Travellers who propose taking Portugal on their way to or from Spain must obtain the Portuguese vise either in London or Paris. Those travellers who may require special assistance or aid from the local authorities in Spain, will find great civility shown them, provided that they on their part when entering the official residence take off their hats — that outward visible sign of good breeding and good intentions on the Continent, which is so frequently disregarded by our cool, curt, and catch-cold countrymen, to their infinite cost. In no country is more to be obtained by the cheap outlay of courtesy in manner and speech than in Spain ; “ cortesia de boca , mucho vale y poco cuesta .” Foreigners who intend to make a lengthened stay in the Peninsula should take out a fuero , and thus place themselves under the especial protection of the military authorities. A foreigner who has thus registered himself cannot be arrested by civil process. A warrant from the commander-in-chief of the province, or from the war- office in Madrid, must be procured before his personal liberty can in any way be interfered with. § 3.— Custom-houses, Custom-house officers now (1882) give very little trouble, and the receivers of the derechos de puertas , or dues levied at city-gates on comestibles de boca — articles of eating and drinking— give none at all to ordinary travellers ; but no prudent traveller should ever risk his ease b 2 [ 4 ] § 4 . — Spanish Money and Measures. and security by carrying any prohibited goods with him. The objects most searched for are sealed letters and tobacco : if the lover of cigars has a considerable stock with him (a pound or so may pass), he is advised to declare it at once, pay the duty, and obtain a guia , or permit, which exempts him from further molestation. English tire- arms and gunpowder are prohibited. Sportsmen, however, who enter Spain from Gibraltar, may manage to introduce their own guns and ammunition. As the Besguardos — the custom-house officers and preventive service — have a right to examine baggage, it is of no use to resist or lose time and temper ; much more may be done by good humour, patience, civility, and a cigar : raise therefore no difficulties, but offer your keys, and profess the greatest readiness to have everything examined. Duties . — As the tariff continually changes, travellers who wish to know the charges for foreign goods imported into Spain must consult the last edition of the Arancel de Aduanas , published at Madrid, and find out if any order has been issued which modifies the duties. § 4. — Spanish Money and Measures. The money of Spain was assimilated to that of France, Italy, Belgium, and Switzerland, in 1868, when the Peseta of 4 Beals = 1 franc, was made the monetary unit. (100 centimos = 4 reals — 1 peseta.) The New Gold Coins arc £ s. cl 25 Pesetas ». .. — 1 0 0 10 „ =080 5 „ —040 New Silver Coins. £ s. cl =040 = 0 1 71 =00 [H =005 = 0 0 2J =002 Bronze Coins. 1, 2, 5, and 10 Centimos. The Old Gold Coins were : — £ s. cl Onza .. . . = 320 reals .. = 3 6 8 Media Onza =160 „ .. = 1 13 4 Centen = 100 „ .. = 1 0 10 Quarter Onza (4 Puros piece) =80 ,, .. = 0 16 8 One-eight Onza (Dos duros piece) = 40 „ ..=084 21 J Real Piece =045 Dollar or Duro of 20 Reals =042 5 Pesetas 2 1 „ 50 Centimos 25 20 § 4. — Spanish Money and Measures . [5] The bank-notes in circulation vary in amount from 25 pesetas, or 100 reals, to 1000 pesetas. It is most important for the traveller to know that the notes of no bank in Spain ( not even those of the Bank of Spain) are circulable out of the city or town in which they are issued ; he should therefore insist upon receiving his money in coin, and paper money should be avoided except by those who intend to make a lengthened stay in any of the larger towns, when local bank-notes may be used. The value of the old gold coins is reckoned when of full weight — their exact value, however, is uncertain, as these large coins are much worn by time and the sweating by the fraudulent, and seldom have preserved their legal weight. Those deficient should be accompanied with a certificate stating their exact weight and value. This certificate may be obtained in the principal towns from the fi Contraste ” or “ fiel medidor,” the person who is legally authorized to weigh gold coins sup- posed to be light, and his place is well known. The stranger must take care when he receives onzas, except from first-rate Spanish bankers or merchants, to see that these coins are of correct weight. It is better to have nothing to do with any onzas whatever. Prior to 1875 the gold pieces of 100 reals which were struck weighed 8*387 grammes, and the rate of exchange at par was 96 reals = £1. In 1875, 1876, they were struck, weighing 8*06451 grammes, making the value at par 100 reals = £1. The former rate of exchange (96 reals) is the one usually given in Madrid, Bilbao, or Seville ; in other cities the traveller is fortunate if he gets 95 l reals. Accounts are now generally kept in pesetas and centimos ; in 1865 the escudo was made the highest unit of account. Prior to that date the real and centimo were used in keeping accounts. The dollar of Spain, so well known all over the world, is the Italian “ colonato,” so called because the arms of Spain are supported between the two pillars of Hercules. The ordinary Spanish name is “ duro” They are often, however, termed in banking and mercantile transactions “ pesos fuertef to distinguish them from the imaginary u peso f or smaller dollar of 15 reals only, of which peseta is the diminutive. The traveller should insist upon receiving his money in 100-real pieces when exchanging his circular notes. Measures . — The French metrical decimal system was introduced by royal decree (13 July, 1849), and the metro, kilometro, and litro, are now the only official measures employed in Spain, although the old Spanish vara (yard), legua (league), and cuartilla (quart), are still often used by the tradespeople and peasant classes. A m£tre equals 1 yard 3^ inches, or 1 vara 7 pulgadas. A kilo- metro — 1093 yards 2 inches, = * 621 of an English mile. A Spanish legua = 5*555 kilometres = 3f English miles. A Spanish vara consists of 3 pies (feet), each of 12 pulgadas (inches), each of 12 lineas (lines), and equals 2*782 English feet. The English mile = 1925§ Spanish yards. The English foot is 13 Spanish inches. [ 6 ] § 4 . — Spanish Money and Measures . Table of Kilometres and Miles . 1 kilometre = 0*62 mile. 20 kilometres — 12*43 miles. 2 kilometres = 1 * 24 miles. 30 — 18*64 3 „ = 1*86 40 = 24*86 11 4 " „ = 2*49 50 „ = 31*07 11 3 ' » — 3*11 » 60 = 37*28 11 6 n — 3*73 70 „ — 43*50 11 7 » = 4*35 J*. 80 = 49*71 ' 11 8 » = 4*97 90 « „ — 55*92 11 3 „ = 5 * 59 100 62*14 10 „ = 6*21 • 5> Spanish and English Weights and Measures. Weights. Spanish . English equivalent. 12 Granos — 1 Tomin. 3 Tomines .. — 1 Adarme. 2 Adarmes . . — 1 Dracma = Drachm. 8 Dracmas . . — 1 Onza = Ounce. 8 Onzas — 1 Marco = Marc. 2 Marcos — 1 Libra = Pound. 25 Libras — 1 Arroba = Quarter of Cwt, 4 Arrobas = 1 Quintal = Hundred Weight. Distances . 12 Lineas = 1 Pulgada .. == Inch. 12 Pulgadas.. — 1 Pie = Foot. 1J Ke .. .. -= 1 Codo = Cubit. 2 Codos } 3 Pies / * * - 1 Vara = Yard. Corn and Dry Measures . 4 Ochavillos . . — 1 Ochavo 4 Ochavos . . — 1 Cuartillo .. •.*= Pint. 4 Cuartillos . . — 1 Celemin = Peck. 12 Celemines .. — 1 Fanega = About one Cwt. 12 Fanegas ... = 1 Caiz. Our quarter is about 5 Fanegas, 1 J Celemin. 1 bushel is about 7i Celemines. An Aranzada , or Spanish acre, is as much land as a pair of oxen can plough in a day ; a Fanega is that quantity which requires a Fanega of grain to sow it. 4 Copas 4 Cuartillos .. 2 Azumbres.. 4 Cuartillas .. 29 Arrobas Liquid Measures , Wme, $*c. 1 Cuartillo. .. 1 Azumbre .. 1 Cuartilla .. 1 Arroba 1 Bota o Pipa = Pint. = About J a gallon. = About a gallon. = About 3J gallons or 32 pints. = About 110 to 115 gallons. About 7 Cuartillos make our Gallon. § 5 . — Steam Communications . [ 7 ] § 5. — Steam Communications. The Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company’s steamers leave Gravesend every Wednesday and call at Gibraltar; they make the passage in about five days. To secure passages and obtain infor- mation apply at the Company’s offices, No. 122, Leadenhall Street, or 25, Cockspur Street, Charing Cross. Messrs. John Hall, junr., and Co.’s steamers from London Dock weekly for Lisbon, Gibraltar, Malaga, and Cadiz. Office, No. 1, New London Street, E.C. The length of passage outwards from London to Lisbon is about 5 days ; Gibraltar, 9 days ; Malaga, 13 days ; Cadiz, 18 days ; — and homewards, Cadiz to Lisbon, 2 days ; Lisbon to Vigo, 1 day; Yigo to London, 4 days. The stay at Lisbon is about 2 days ; Gibraltar, days ; Malaga, 3 days ; Cadiz, 4 days : — homeward, Lisbon, 1£ day ; Yigo, § day. The fares are : Lisbon, £7 ; Gibraltar, £8 ; Malaga, £9 ; Cadiz, £10. The steamers leave Cadiz every Thursday evening homewards. The Brazil and River Plate Mail steamers from Southampton call at Yigo and Lisbon. Apply to Pioyal Mail S. P. Co., 18, Moorgate Street, E.C. The Pacific Steam Navigation Company’s steamers from Liverpool take passengers for Bordeaux, Santander, Yigo, Corunna, and Lisbon. Offices, 31, James Street, Liverpool; and 5, Eenchurch Street, London. The Moss Steamship Company, from Liverpool every week to Bordeaux and Gibraltar. Agents, Messrs. James Moss and Co., 31, James Street, Liverpool. Some of Messrs. Burn andMacIver’s Mediterranean steamers (Cunard line) call at Gibraltar. Office, 1, Rumford Street, Liverpool ; or Messrs. W. and W. S. Cunard, 6, St. Helen’s Place, London, and 28, Pall Mall. The French Transatlantic Mail steamers leave Marseilles for Carta- gena every other Wednesday at 5 p.m., and Marseilles to Yalencia (via Cette and Port Yendres) every other Saturday at 5 a.m. 1st Class: Cartagena, 79 francs; Yalencia, 95 francs. A. Lopez and Co.’s steamers run from Barcelona to Yalencia, Alicante, and Cadiz, twice a month. The Segovia Cuadra Company’s steamers run to Barcelona and all the ports on the eastern coast as far as Seville : the passages are generally made during the nights, and the days are spent at the various ports. The steamers on their arrival at Spanish ports are soon surrounded with boats to convey passengers on shore. The proper charges per tarif are a peseta per person, two reals per portmanteau, and one for each smaller package ; a passenger without luggage has to pay two reals for being landed, or put on board. The word “tarif a” itself generally settles disputes. The passenger steamers on the East Coast of Spain are neither so good nor so numerous as they were before the railways were made. Fonvarding of Luggage. — If you wish to forward baggage or packages by these steamers, have them carefully directed, and take a receipt for them and forward it per post to your correspondent, desiring him to send for the articles the moment the steamer arrives, otherwise they will be liable to be left on board or lost. [ 8 ] § 6 . — Railways and Roads . The quickest way to get anything sent from England to Madrid, or vice versa , is by Messrs. John Hall’s steamers, No. 1, New London Street, by the direct line from Lisbon to Madrid by Malpartida. Heavy luggage may be sent from Madrid to England, via Seville, care of Messrs. MacAndrews and Co. It must be registered at the Atocha Terminus. Packages maybe sent to France through MM. Garrouste, 14, Calle de Tetuan. London agents, Messrs. Sutton and Co., Golden Lane, City. §6. — Railways and Roads — Diligences — Baggage — Hokses and Mules. Railways in Sjpain. 1882. The Railroad ( Ferro Carril , or Carnino de Hierro) now connects most of the principal cities of Spain (see Map). Whilst in 1848 only 18 Eng. miles of rail were open, in 1863 the mileage had increased to 2216; and now it may be estimated, according to the statement given by the Director of Public Works, that 7739 kilometres are open to public traffic; 1800 kilometres are now (1882) in construction. The rlys. of Spain were constructed principally by means of French capital, and at an enormous cost. They are, perhaps, the worst constructed and the worst managed lines in the world, and are dear, dirty, and dilatory. Although the pace is slow compared with other parts of Europe, yet the advantage they afford in a quick transit over such dreary regions as the plain of Castile and La Mancha is immense. On most lines only 2 trains run in the 24 hours, and the fine scenery is often passed in the dark. The stoppages are frequent and long, and the delays at junction stations often wearisome, and of many hours’ duration. Some of the best stations are very poor, and the secondary stations are often mere hovels. The extreme filthiness of every place to which railway servants and passengers of every class have access in common is much to be deplored. In most of the trains a first-class carriage is set apart for ladies only, marked “ Reservaclo para Senoras .” A well-ordered closet carriage, one for men and one for women, is attached to most trains. Travellers who object to smoking will be glad to know that every train is provided with a first-class carriage reservado para los no fuma- dores. Luggage robberies on railways are not uncommon ; it is there- fore better not to put money or valuables into the trunks which go in the van. Passengers are allowed to take a portmanteau or small amount of luggage in the carriage with them, which, if pressed for time, will be a great convenience, and enable them to avoid the long and weary delays at the station before the luggage is got ready. Travellers are advised to buy the official railway guide, published monthly, Indicador de los Caminos de Hierro de E span a y Portugal y price 2 reals. It may be had at the railway stations and libraries. The principal stations are provided with Buffets ; a good dinner, and plenty of time to eat it, are provided every four or five hours. Diligences. Since the introduction of the railway system into Spain, there has been a marked development in the construction of high-roads also ; thus, whilst the total length of roads existing in Spain in 1855 was only 5920 Eng. m., it may be calculated that more than double that § 6 . — High-roads . — Diligences . [9] number are at the present time open. But even this amount is quite disproportionate to the wants of a country like Spain, which has an area of 126,759,000 statute acres. The old Caminos lledles (royal roads) — Carreteras Generales — of Spain are eight in number : they branch forth from the capital like spokes of a wheel, and run to Irun , to Barcelona by Zaragoza , to Cadiz by Seville , to Malaga by Granada, to Pamplona by Soria , to Valencia by Albacete , to Coruna and Oviedo by Valladolid , and to Portugal by Badajoz. These first-class roads are also called Arrecifes , from the Arabic word for chaussees , causeways : they are made on the Macadam system, admirably engineered, and kept in good repair. Ordinary but carriageable roads are called caminos carreteros , caminos de car - ruage, de carretera , and are just practicable : bridle-roads are called caminos de herradura. Bye-ways and short cuts are termed trochas , travesias and caminos de atajo , and familiarly and justly called caminos de per dices, roads for partridges; nor should any man in his senses or in a wheel-carriage forget the proverb no hay atajo sin trabajo — there is no short cut without hard work. A rambla — Arabice rami , sand — serves the double purpose of a road in summer for men and beasts, and a river-bed in winter for fish and wild-fowl. Internal locomotion has been facilitated throughout the Peninsula., as regards public conveyances in connexion with the railways, but the progress is slow. In travelling by Diligence (called Diligencia), the distances are usually regulated and paid for — not by posts, but by leagues, leguas , of 20,000 feet, or 20 to a degree of the meridian, and somewhat less than three miles and a half English, being the nautical league of three geo- graphical miles. The official measure of distance is now the French kilo. The country leagues, especially in the wilder and mountainous districts, are calculated more by guesswork than measurement. Gene- rally you may reckon by time rather than distance, the sure test of slow coaching, and consider the league a sort of German stunde , an hour's work. The term “legua” is modified by an explanatory epithet. “ Larga,” or long, varies from four to five miles. “ Regular ,” a very Spanish word, is used to express a league, or anything else that is neither one thing nor another, something about the regular post league. “ Corta” as it implies, is a short league, three miles. The public coaches or diligencias are based, in form and system, on the French diligence, from whence the name is taken ; these copies are preferable to their originals, inasmuch as the company which travels by them, from the difficulties of travelling with post-horses, is of a superior order to those who go by the diligence in France, and the Spaniard is essentially much higher bred than his neighbour, especially as regards the fair sex. The Spanish diligences go pretty fast, but the stoppages, delays, and C( behind time ” are terrible. Travelling in the diligencia , odious in itself, is subject to the usual continental drags, hilletes, &c., previous to starting. The prices are moderate, and vary according to the places : the best division is the Berlina (called Coupe in France), the second best is the Interior , the third the Coupe or Banquette ; only half the quantity of luggage (15 kilos = 30 lbs.) is allowed by diligence that is allowed by railway, and a heavy charge made for all extra. Be careful as to directions ort [ 10 ] § 6.— Horses and Mules. your luggage, avoiding the “ Esq.” and have it all registered ; and take your place in time too, as the diligencias are often crowded, especially during summer. The passengers are under the charge of a conductor, the mayoral ; meals are provided at the coaches’ own baiting inns or paraclores ; they are sufficient in quantity, endurable in cookery, and reasonable in charges. As a pedestrian tour for pleasure is a thing utterly unknown in Spain, except in the northern provinces, excursions on horseback are truly national and preferable, and bring the stranger in close contact with Spanish man and nature. Horses or mules may be hired in most large cities, or the traveller to whom time is no object may join the caravans of the regular muleteers and carriers, who ply from fixed places to others. Those who can only ride on an English saddle should procure one before starting, and every man will do well to bring out a good pair of English spurs, with some spare sets of rowels, and attend to their efficient sharpness, for the hide of a Spanish beast is hard and un- impressionable. Ladies must not expect to find English saddles in any but the large towns. The native saddles used by women, hamugas, are comfort- able ; they consist of a sort of chair, with a footboard to rest the feet. It cannot be said that the animals owned by Spanish muleteers are pleasant to ride, nor indeed are the hacks ( [haccis ) and cattle usually let for hire much better ; to those, therefore, who propose making an extensive riding tour, especially in the provinces of Galicia, Estre- madura, and Aragon, the better plan is to perform it on their own animals, the masters on horses, the attendants on mules. The chief points in such journeys are to take as few traps as possible : trunks — the impedimenta of travellers — are thorns in their path, who pass more lightly and pleasantly by sending the heavier luggage on from town to town ; “ attend also to the provend,” as the commissariat has ever been the difficulty in hungry and thirsty Spain. Each master should have his own Alforjas or saddle-bags, in which he will stow away whatever is absolutely. necessary for his own immediate wants and comforts, strapping his cloak or manta over it. The servant should be mounted on a stout mule, and provided with strong and capacious capachos de esparto , or peculiar baskets made of this useful Spanish grass ; one side may be dedicated to the wardrobe, the other to the larder ; and let neither master nor man omit to take a bota , or leather wine-bottle, or forget to keep it full ; spare sets of shoes for horses and mules, with nails and hammer, are also essential. When once off the beaten tracks, those travellers who make up their minds to find nothing on the road but discomfort will be the least likely to be disappointed, while by being prepared and fore-armed they will overcome every difficulty — hombre prevenido , nunca fue vencido , a little foresight and provision gives small trouble and ensures great comfort. The sooner all who start on riding tours can speak Spanish the better, as polyglot travel- ling servants are apt to be rogues. In the absence of a trustworthy courier a retired cavalry soldier is a good man to take, as he under- stands horses, and knows how to forage in districts where rations are rare. Few soldiers are more sober, patient, and enduring of fatigue than the Spanish ; eight reals a day, food, lodging, and some dress, with a tip at the end, will be ample pay. A Spanish servant (whether § 7. — Post Office and Letters . [11] professional courier or soldier) must be treated with civility, and abusive speech avoided. It is desirable for the traveller to carry with him some anti-cholera medicine, and a bottle of Henry’s magnesia. It is difficult to have Eng- lish prescriptions made up in Spain. For dysentery the usual Spanish remedy is rice-water, which sometimes stops the diarrhoea. It is well also to have a supply of tea and French brandy, and small metal teapot, neither of these being procurable except in the larger towns. Spaniards always take a day’s provision with them. An india-rubber bath will be found a great comfort. § 7. — Post Office and Letters. Post-offices and Letters, and the general correspondence of Spain, are tolerably well regulated. A single letter, una carta sencilla , must not exceed 15 gramos; the charge for postage increases with the weight. The English system has been introduced ; a uniform charge for postage — by weight — now, irrespective of distance, prevails over Spain. The stamps are called sellos. Letters to any part of Spain pay 15 cent, of peseta. To France and England, 25 centimos for the same weight. Postage stamps cannot be bought at the post-office ; they must be pro- cured at the Government cigar, tobacco depdts (Estancos), which are distinguished by having the Government arms over the door. English newspapers are free to Spain. Pamphlets and papers fastened like ours, with an open band or faja for directing, are charged to any part of Spain or her colonies, 1 cent . of peseta ; to England and France, 5 cent, for every 50 grammes. Post-cards for any part of Spain, 10 cent. Letters for inside a town, whatever their weight, 10 cent. Letters from or to England must be prepaid, or they will be charged double postage. A registered letter requires a stamp of 75 centimes. Travellers may have their letters addressed to them at the post-office, to Lista de Correos ( = Poste Restante), where the passport is usually asked for before the letter is delivered. Prudent tourists should urge home correspondents, especially their fair ones, to direct simply, and to write the surname in large and legible characters. The best mode, while travelling in Spain, is to beg them to adopt the Spanish form — 44 Sehor Don Plantagenet Smytheville.” The traveller should always put his own letters into the post-office, and himself affix the stamps on them. Travellers, when settled in a town, may, by paying a small fixed sum to the post-office clerks, have a separate division, 44 el apartado ,” and an earlier delivery of their letters. Letters from the Peninsula directed to a private address or to an hotel, are left by a postman, 44 el cartefbf who is entitled to charge 5 cent, for each letter, on delivery. § 8.— Telegraph Office and Telegrams. The telegraph-lines in Spain are all in the hands of the State. The offices are open day and night, and the staff of officials employed are usually intelligent and trustworthy. Parties must procure telegraph stamps from an Estanco , or at the telegraph-office in large towns, of the value of the message to be sent : these stamps must be handed to the clerk to be affixed by him to the dispatch. The telegram may be written in French, English, German, Italian, and Portuguese : dispatches § 9 . — Spanish Inns. [ 12 ] from other countries to any town in Spain can be addressed “ Poste restante ” in which case they must be called for at the Telegraph- office, just as a letter would be called for at the Post-office. A telegram to Great Britain costs for each word 44 cents. With an extra tax for every telegram of . . . . 2 pesetas 20 ,, Ditto to France (each word) 25 ,, With the tax of 1 peseta 95 „ Ditto to Spain (each word) . .. 10 , If not exceeding 10 words (5 additional words are allowed for the address) 1 peseta. § 9. —Spanish Inns : Fonda, Posada, Yenta — Boats and Pdblic Carriages. Kailways, and the improvement of public conveyances, by leading to increased travel and traffic, have caused some corresponding change for the better in the quantity and quality of the houses destined for the accommodation of wayfaring men and beasts. As they are constantly changing, it is not easy to give their names in every small and out-of- the-way place. These conveniences are of varied denominations, de- grees, and goodness. 1st is the Hotel, or Fonda (the Oriental Fundack ), which is the assumed equivalent to our hotel, as in it lodging and board are furnished. The hotels in the chief towns have now French cooking, and are good, though not equal to Swiss hotels. 2nd is the Posada , in which, strictly speaking, only the former is provided. Thirdly comes the Venta , which is a sort of inferior posada of the country, as distinguished from the town ; at the Venta the traveller finds the means of cooking whatever provisions he has brought with him, or can forage on the spot. These khans are generally larder- less, although the Yentero, as in Don Quijote's time, will answer, when asked what he has got, Hay de todo , there is everything; but de toque V . trae, “of what you bring with you,” must be understood. The traveller, when he arrives at one of these Posadas , in rarely - visited places, should be courteous and liberal in using little conven- tional terms of civility, and not begin by ordering and hurrying people about ; he will thus be met more than half-way, and obtain the best quarters and accommodation that are to be had. Suaniards who are not to be driven by a rod of iron, may be tickled and led by a straw. Treat them as caballeros, and you put them on their mettle at once, when they generally behave themselves as such. No man who values a night’s rest will omit on arrival to look at once after his bed : a cigar for the mozo y a compliment to the muchacha, and a tip, una gratijica - cioncita, seldom fail to conciliate and secure comfort. The u ventorrillo” or Cantina , is a minor class of venta , and often nothing more than a mere hut, run up with reeds or branches of trees by the roadside, at which water, wine, and bad aguardiente (aniseed, true aqua ardens ) are to be sold. In out-of-the-way districts the tra- veller, in the matter of inns, will seldom be perplexed with any difficulty of selection : the golden rule will be to go to the one where the diligence puts up — El Par ador de las Diligencias . The simple direction, “vamos a la Posada,” let us go to the inn, will be enough in those small towns where the name of an inn is not given in the Handbook, for the § 9 . — Spanish Inns. [ 13 ] question in such out-of-the-way places is rather, Hay posada , y donde esta ? (Is there an inn, and where is it ?) than Which is the best inn ? Spanish inns are generally clean ; the best are kept by Italians or Swiss. Water is generally abundant, and Spaniards drink very freely of it, but it is apt to disagree with foreigners, until acclimatized. The common table-wine is wholesome and palatable, when care has been taken not to bottle it in hogskins, which give it a taste of leather, and often of the common spirit (aguardiente) of the country, with which the wine-skins are prepared. Most of the first-class hotels have tolerable red and white wine on the table. A better wine is the Valdepehas, which can be had for an extra charge of 4 reals per bottle. The charges of the native inns are not exorbitant ; generally 20 to 40 r. (6s.) a day are charged for bed and board, according to size of bedroom : this includes breakfast, and dinner with wine. If the guest comes too late for dinner, or goes before dinner, a half day is usually charged. In Sevilla, Barcelona, Cadiz, and Madrid, the charges are dearer, and in all places where establishments are set up on what is called the English or French system, foreign prices are demanded ; but travellers are advised always to inquire at hotels in Spain what they are to pay . This observation especially applies to the first-class hotels at Madrid, which are very expensive. Travellers should also be warned never to set foot in any boat or carriage or omnibus before it is dis- tinctly understood exactly how much they are to pay for the conveyance of themselves and all their baggage, and that the sum named includes carrying the luggage into and out of the conveyance. They must not trust to the word “ Tarif,” for it often encloses a small footnote, which states that if passengers or luggage are conveyed to any domicilio , the charge is double. If not certain of the hotel, it is a good plan to leave the luggage at the public office ; and when the hotel has been chosen, send for it. Those who propose remaining more than a night in a town may make their own bargain with the innkeeper as soon as they have been shown their rooms : a question as to the usual charges of the hotel (which always include everything en pension ), politely asked, will ensure an immediate rejoinder, and the traveller may be then satis- fied that he will not be overcharged : if he intends to make a long stay, he can make special terms, or he can go into a Boarding- house, “ Casa de Huespedes ,” where he will have the best oppor- tunity of learning the Spanish language, and obtaining an idea of the national manners and habits. These establishments are con- stantly advertised in the local newspapers, and the houses themselves may be known externally by a white paper ticket attached to the extremity of one of the window balconies ; for if paper be placed in the middle , it only means “ unfurnished lodgings to let here.” The traveller will always be able to learn from the consul or his banker, or from any respectable inhabitant, which of these boarding-houses enjoys the best reputation, or he may himself advertise in the papers for exactly the sort of thing he wants. Mosquito-nets are indispensable during June, July, August, and Sep- tember. The bedsteads in first-class inns are usually furnished with them, but not in the country inns. The linen is generally clean, but it is always well to be supplied with Persian powder during the sum- [ 14 ] § 10 . — Spanish Bobbers — New Police — Civil Guards . mer months. The bed-room^ in large towns are carpeted in winter ; they seldom have fireplaces, but in winter a' brazier is lighted. The domestic arrangements in general in the Spanish hotels and lodgings are very bad. The only way that an improvement is ever to take place is to complain incessantly to the servants, and insist upon cleanliness whenever necessary. § 10. — Spanish Robbers — New Police — Civil Guards. Undoubtedly on the long highways of a thinly-peopled land, accidents may occur ; but the regular and really formidable robbers have almost disappeared on the high roads, in consequence of the insti- tution of a body of well-armed men, admirably disciplined (part mounted) as Gens-d’Armes, who are stationed on the principal routes as escorts and patrols. They are called Guardias civiles , to distinguish them from military and rural guards. Notwithstanding these pre- cautions, however, every now and then trains are stopped, and the travellers robbed. Valuables should always be taken in a hand-bag, for the railway service is bad all over the country, and passengers’ baggage is frequently opened on the journey. Civil Guards of Spain. — This noble body of men is composed of 20,000 Foot and 5000 Horse Guards, or Gendarmerie, first organised 1844-45 : they are dressed in dark blue tunic and trousers of same colour, light buff-coloured belts, and armed with Eemington rifles ; some have the short, some the long rifle. The Guardias civiles are under military law ; their punishments and penalties exceptionally severe. Their esprit de corps is good. Their ranks are composed of the high- character and long-service men of the Spanish army ; and of cadets from the College, near Madrid, where all the orphan children of Civil Guards who have died in the pursuance of their duty, are educated, free of expense, for the force. The duties of the Civil Guards are much the same as those of the Irish Constabulary, whom they greatly resemble in organisation. They are stationed, in couples , in every town and small village, and in small barracks along every frequented high-road, and in squads of from 25 to 50 in Spain’s larger cities. They are police , with- out being spies ; soldiers , without being liable to be called on for service beyond the Peninsula. They perform their duties as police most effectively. Not a robbery is committed but what these men find out, and, thanks only to their exertions, Spain is now well-nigh free of robbers. Two of them meet every train at every station, examine passports with courtesy, check everything that is wrong, as well by their presence and morale , as by the strong arm of the law. They escort prisoners from one prison to another, and, knowing how uncertain in its action is Spanish law, they constantly shoot down a murderer, taken red-handed, or trying to escape when on the march with them from prison to prison. They have done more to establish order in Spain than any other body. The men are 5 feet 8 inches in stature, well-set and powerful. Their head is a General in the army, living in Madrid, with the title of Director-General. Their officers are nearly all of the middle class ; say, of the class of tradesmen. All members § 12 . — Hints to Invalids — Climate . [ 15 ] of the force must read and write . Promotion from the ranks is the rule, not the exception. They live in barracks, mess together, and associate but little with the outer world. The force supports a we, kly periodical, called Boletin oficial de La Guardia Civil , first started in 1858. The rules of the corps are arranged in the Cartilla, gambling being entirely prohibited. (i The couples engaged in patrolling the roads must walk twelve paces apart from one another, so as not to be both surprised at once.” The rules for protection of persons and property prescribe the proper conduct for every emergency, such as earthquakes, fires, floods, way- farer losing his way, and so on, duly laid down. The cavalry carry heavy dragoon swords of Toledo make, and revolvers and short carbine; the foot-soldiers — for soldiers they are, and trained to act in couples as well as in large bodies, — Bemington rifle and bayonet, and sometimes revolvers. The safety of property in Spain may, without exaggeration, be said to depend on this most excellent force. No Civil Guard is allowed to accept a reward, however great be his service to you. § 11. —Population and Be venue— Educational Statistics, &c. Population in 1868, 15,673,248, of -whom 3,129,921 knew how to read and write, 705,778 could read only. According to the census for the year 1877, the population of Spain numbers over 16,731,570. Revenue for the year 1882-1883. This has been estimated (officially) at 760,291,224 pesetas, or francs ; the State expenses are estimated (officially) at 792,122,953 pesetas. (See f Presupuestos Generales del Estado,’ 1882.) The Bevenue has always been badly collected, and at an enormous cost. Every impediment has been placed in the way of intended investors of capital in the Peninsula. But in spite of every obstacle which successive governments — each (if possible) worse than its pre- decessor — could throw in the way of Spanish progress, that progress has been most marked during the last 20 years. Since then the popu- lation and revenue have increased, and a marked improvement is per- ceptible in the education of the people. § 12.— Hints to Invalids— Climate. The superiority of the climate of the South of Spain over other regions of Europe has been ably demonstrated by various medical writers.* Independently of a more southern latitude, the geometrical configuration of Spain is superior. While the Apennines , the backbone of Italy, stretching N. to S.> offer no barrier to northern cold, the sierras of Spain, running E. and W., afford complete shelter to the littoral strips. Free as a whole from malaria, dryness is the emphatic quality of the climate. Tarragona, Murcia, and Malaga, may be pro- nounced the most favoured winter climate in Europe. As Spain itself is a conglomeration of elevated mountains, the tree- less, denuded interior, scorching and calcined in summer, keen, cold and windblown in winter, is prejudicial to the invalid; the hygienic * See Dr. Bennett’s « Climate of the South of Europe.’ * Change of Climate,’ &c., hy D. J. T. Francis, M.D. [ 16 ] § 13 . — Mineral Springs and Sea-Bathing. characteristics of the maritime coasts to the N.W. from Vigo to San Sebastian, are soothing and sedative — a relaxing influence prevailing as the French frontier is approached ; the coast- line from Barcelona to Cadiz is more bracing and exhilarating. Tarragona possesses perhaps the most agreeable climate in Europe, whilst farther S. (in Murcia) occur the driest regions in Europe, with Malaga for the happy medium. For all this, at the present time there are few towns in Spain where invalids can pass a winter with comfort or safety. Malaga enjoys a mild winter climate, and the same immunity from frost as does the Biviera from Nice to San Bemo ; but it is not a clean or healthy city. The drainage is as defective as can be. The hotels are fairly good, but there are few, if any, suburban residences fit for invalids (Dr. Bennett and Dr. More Madden, p. 280). Murcia in summer is a desert, except where water springs and irrigation create an oasis, where palms flourish in forest growth. In winter the climate is mild, dry, and exempt from frost. The water drunk in Spain, where — in the warmer portions — diabetes and dropsy are little known, is deliciously pure. The wines of Navarre, Valdepehas, and Aragon, are cheap and whole- some. The cuisine , in a country where people eat to live, not live to eat, will indeed keep body and soul together, but will tempt no weak and wearied stomach to repletion. The peptic benefits of climate on the natives are evident by the way they digest an oil, vinegar, and vegetable diet, and survive chocolate, sweetmeats, and bile-creating compounds. The sustaining effect is proved by the untiring activity of the very under- fed masses, where many seem to live on air, like chameleons. To be always able to bask in the open air, to throw physic to the dogs, to watch the sun, the stars, the country, the blue Mediter- ranean, and the people, with the satisfaction of every day getting better, are consolations and occupations sufficient. § 13 .— Mineral Springs and Sea-Bathing. These are very numerous, and have always been much frequented. In every part of the Peninsula such names as Caldas , the Bom an Calidas,*and Alhama , the Arabic Al-hamun, denote the continuance of baths, in spite of the changes of nations and language. From Al- hamun, the Hhamman of Cairo, the name of our comfortable Jermyn Street Hummums is derived ; but very different are the Spanish accommodations, which are mostly inadequate, and inconvenient. The Junta Suprema de Sanidad, or Official Board of Health, has pub- lished a list of the names of the principal baths, and their proper seasons. At each a medical superintendent resides, who is appointed by Government. The most important of these establishments, and where a certain degree of comfort can be obtained for invalids, and which are remark- able for their admirable situation, are — Santa Agueda. Alzola , Arrecka - valeta and Cestona (in the Basque Provinces), Caldas de Oviedo (Asturias), Ontaneda (Santander), Fitero (Navarra), Panticosa (Huesca), Caldas de Mornbuy and la Puda (Cataluna), Alhama de Aragon , Lanjaron (Granada), Carratraca (Malaga). Tn the Almanaque de Pspana , easily to be found everywhere, a list is also given of the properties of these medicinal waters, their locality and season. § 14 , — Tours in Spain. [ 17 ] Sea-bathing, during the summer and autumn months, is very enjoy- able on the N. W. coasts of Spain. The most fashionable sea-side resort is St. Sebastian, which is frequented by the best Madrid society. El Sardinero, near Santander, is also much resorted to'. Zarauz, Deva, and Saturraran are more suited to quiet people who wish for economy. Gijon is the most fashionable sea-bathing locality of Asturias ; but at the hamlets on the coast, Luanco, Luarca, &c., the bathing is very pleasant, the prices charged for lodgings most moderate, providing an agreement is made ; the food, salmon, milk, and excellent fruits and vegetables most abundant ; and the artist or student will find great enjoyment in the grand scenery and picturesque people. On the shores of the Mediterranean there are numerous bathing establishments— at Barcelona, Arenys del Mar, a beautiful spot, Ali- cante, Valencia, Malaga, and Cadiz. The water of the Mediterranean is very different in temperature and chemical properties to that of the Atlantic. For some constitutions these baths are highly recommended, but the heat at those localities is so intense that autumn should be chosen. Bathing machines are not generally used in Spain, one of the few exceptions being at Las Arenas, near Bilbao ; thatched huts, or albercas , supply their place. Men and women bathe separately in these albercas. § 14. — Tours in Spain. Although the ravages of war, and the acts of the Gotho-Spaniards themselves, have destroyed and disfigured many of the most interesting relics of the Moor — yet the remains of that elegant, industrious, and enlightened people are still, both in number and importance, quite unequalled in Europe : they will long continue to furnish subjects of interest and curiosity to travellers in the Peninsula. Before pointing out objects to be observed in Spain, it may be as well to mention what is not to be seen, as there is no worse loss of time than finding this out oneself, after weary chase and wasted hours ; and first let us advise the mere Idler and Man of Pleasure to go rather to Paris, Vienna, St. Petersburg, Florence, or Pome, than to Madrid and Spain, for Iberia is not a land of fleshly comforts, or of social sensual civilization. Oh J dura tellus Iberice ! — God there sends the meat, and the evil one cooks. Then again, those who expect to find well- garnished arsenals, libraries provided with the popular literature of the day, restaurants, charitable or literary institutions, polytechnic galleries, pale-ale breweries, and similar appliances and appurtenances of a high state of commercial civilization, had better stay at home. Life in the country towns and villages of Spain is a Bedouin Oriental existence. Madrid itself is but a dear, second-rate European capital. The maritime seaports are, however, more amusing ; and the Alameda, the church show, and the bull-fight, will be best enjoyed in the Southern provinces, the land also of the song and dance, of bright suns and eyes, wholesale love-making, and of not the largest female feet in the world. Spain may perhaps interest a political economist, as offering a fine example of errors to be avoided, and a grand field for theories and plans of future reform and amelioration. Here is a land where Nature has lavished her prodigality of soil and climate, and which man has for [ Spain. — 1 882.] c § 14 . — The Grand Tour . [ 18 ] the last four centuries been endeavouring to counteract. El cielo y suelo es bueno , el entresuelo mcdo . Here the tenant for life, and the occupier of the peninsular entresol , have long abused, with incurious apathy, the goodh with which the gods have provided him, and have preserved the country as a terra incognita to naturalists, and every branch of ists and ologists. Those, however, who aspire to the romantic, who wish to revel in the sublime and beautiful, will find subjects enough in wandering with lead-pencil and note-book through this singular country, this land of the green valley and ashy mountain, of the boundless plain and the broken sierra ; through Elysian gardens of the vine, the olive, the orange, and the aloe, and trackless, silent, uncultivated Wastes, the heritage of the bustard and bittern. Striking, indeed, and sudden is the change, in flying from the polished mono- tony of England, to the racy freshness of this still original country, where antiquity treads on the heels of to-day ; where Paganism dis- putes the very altar with Christianity ; where a want of much that is honest or merciful is blended with the most devoted heroic virtues ; where ignorance and erudition stand in violent and striking contrast. In suggesting lines of routes in Spain, a whole year would not suffice to exhaust the objects of natural history, antiquarian, ecclesiological, and fine art interest. A complete tour — the grand tour — may, however, be made in five months by those to whom time is an important con- sideration. a . The Grand Tour, Start from England about the beginning of March , enter Spain by Boute No . 137, and then proceed thus — Gerona. Gaucin. La Coruna. Barcelona. Ronda. Santiago. Montserrat. Carratraca. Vigo. Poblet. Malaga. Tuy. Tarragona. Cordova. Orense. Murviedro. Merida. Leon. Valencia. Caceres. Oviedo. Jativa. Plasencia. Gijon. Almansa. Yuste. Santander. Alicante. Talavera. Bilbao. Cartagena. Toledo. San Sebastian. Marcia. Aranjuez. Burgos. Cartagena. Madrid. Miranda. Malaga. Cuenca. Logrono. Granada. Madrid. Alfaro. Jaen. Escorial. Pamplona. 55 Tudela. Andujar. Segovia. Cordova. Valladolid. The Pyrenees. Seville (holy week). Avila. Huesca. Jerez. Salamanca. Jaca. Cadiz. Zamora. Zaragoza. Tarifa. Benavente. Lerida. Algeciras. Palencia. Manresa (Montserrat). Gibraltar, Leon. Cardona. Ceuta. Astorga. Baths of La Puda. Tangiers, Tetuan, Ponferrada. Lugo. Barcelona. § 14 . — A Two-Months I * * * 5 and Biding Tour . [ 19 ] h. A Two-Months’ Tour through Spain. March, April, and May are the most agreeable months for travelling. Thence to October there is intense heat, an arid landscape, and intoler- able sun-glare, except in the northern provinces, where the country is in full beauty in summer. The following circuit — comprehending the most interesting cities and scenery in Spain (Galicia and Navarre excepted) — may be made in eight weeks, allowing of three days in each of the cities of Granada, Seville, Toledo, Madrid, and Burgos ; two days in Barcelona, Zaragoza, Tarragona, Valencia, Ronda, Gibraltar, Segovia, and Salamanca; and sufficient time in the other cities and towns to enable the traveller to see the principal objects of interest. Gerona. Jativa. Cordova. Barcelona. Murcia. Toledo. Montserrat. Elche. Madrid. Lerida. Granada. Escorial. Huesca. Malaga. Segovia. Zaragoza (return Honda. Avila. again to Lerida). Gibraltar. Salamanca. Lerida. Algeciras. Tarifa. Zamora. Poblet. Valladolid. Tarragona. Cadiz. Burgos. Murviedro. Jerez. San Sebastian. Valencia. Seville. c. Riding Tour in Spain. I would not advise any one, much less an invalid, to undertake a riding tour in Spain during the winter months. The best season is April, May, and June, or even earlier in Andalucia and Murcia. The whole country is then in the bloom of spring, and the climate temperate and most enjoyable. In winter all the bridle roads are a sea of mud, and the going execrable, whilst in summer the heat renders travelling by day almost impossible. Autumn is likewise undesirable, as the whole country side wears an arid and tawny appearance after the summer heat and dust. In May and June of 1880 and 1881 I rode through nearly the whole of the two Castiles, and the Pyrenean portions of Catalonia and Aragon. No expedition can be more enjoyable, and in no country will one meet with greater courtesy and civility. Owing to the recollections of the great war, an Englishman is universally well received in country towns and villages ; a Frenchman the contrary. . A sine qua non is to speak Castellano fluently. Otherwise intending visitors had better stop at home, save their time and money, and keep their tempers, which they will most assuredly lose if they cannot talk the language. The next thing is to obtain a good servant. I have always had the same Castilian every year, and prefer them to Anda- lucians or Galicians — the latter the drudges of the Peninsula. If you treat a Castilian with proper respect, no servant in the world becomes more devoted to his master, or watchful of his employer’s interests. As to expenses, the best place to engage your servant and animals is some minor country town. When in the Castiles I always go to Aranda de Duero, between Burgos and Madrid. In such a spot an Englishman c 2 [20] § 14. — Biding Tour in Spain. is a rara avis indeed, and prices have not been raised or the natives spoilt by tourists. If hired for nob less than a couple of months, your servant’s wages should not exceed 12s. a week, hire of a mule for him and horse for yourself about 2 1. 10s. per week. At the commercial hotels in large cities, such as San Sebastian, Pamplona, Zaragoza, Burgos, Valladolid, Avila, Segovia, Toledo, and the like, the universal charge is 6s. per day for yourself, and 3s. for servants, without any extras whatever. This includes chocolate and bread in the early morning, an excellent breakfast of eight courses at any hour between 11 a.m. and 1 p.m., an equally good dinner of ten courses between 7 and 8 4 p.m., good red wine ad libitum , and a comfortable bed. In Madrid, at the Fonda Peninsular, the charge for the same accom- modation is 6s. 5d. a day for yourself, and k 3s. 2d. for servant. On the other hand, in country towns and villages it seldom exceeds 4s. per diem for master, and 2s. for man. Fodder for the two animals should be Is. a day. As regards distances, you will find the country saying of una legua una hora (one league, one hour) pretty exact if you take the good going with the bad. A standard league is 3*45 English miles, and from 20 to 40 miles a day can be done, according to the best available halting-places, resting one or two days a week. I always get under way between 6 and 7 a.m., after the morn- ing chocolate, travel till about noon, when a fountain or stream, with a shady tree or two handy, is resorted to for the alfresco breakfast and siesta, which occupy till 2 p.m. Then on the road again till 7 or 8 p.m., when one should arrive at the quarters for the night. Spanish horses never trot or canter, but invariably go at an amble. Hence the com- fortable albardilla , or saddle of the country, is preferable to, and much less fatiguing than, an English one. Likewise abhor an English great- coat, which can never be made to fold and pack properly on the saddle- peak, and invest in a graceful and sleeveless Castilian manta. All baggage must be carried in your own and servant’s saddle-bags. Con- sequently every drachm of weight and inch of space saved is of vital importance. Two or three enamelled iron plates and half-a-dozen knives, forks, and spoons, packed in a roll-up case, are indispensable. An English picnic basket is not worth the wicker work it is composed of, as it will not travel in saddle-hags. Two leathern wine-bottles of the country are taken, one holding about three pints for current use, and another two gallons kept in reserve. Out of the large towns pro- visions should always be carried. A young lamb, fowl, rabbit, or hare is the best meat. The bread is excellent, and don’t forget some lettuces, oil, and vinegar for a salad, and raisins for dessert when fresh fruit is not in season. I always replenish my provender-bags at every available opportunity, and see that enough meat is cooked overnight for the next day’s picnic breakfast. In the provincial posadas , ventas, and mesones, an Englishman must remember that he will be received by no smirking landlord, bowing waiter, or courtesying chambermaid ; nor will he find the comforts and conveniences he does on this side of the Pyrenees. Except in the fondas of large cities bed-room washing accommodation is conspicuous by its absence. During May and June last the only tubbing I ever got was a swim in the lordly Ebro, Duero, Tagus, or one of their tributaries. Soap and a hand-looking-glass must be carried with you. Biding is the only comfortable way of visiting many of the § 14 . — Summer and Shooting and Fishing Tours . [21 J most interesting remains and picturesque portions of the Peninsula. The railways only connect large cities. Diligences generally arrive and depart at some abnormal hour of the night, and the stuffiness and jolting of them is intolerable. — H. F. W. d. A Summer’s Tour in North Spain. The following is a pleasant long-vacation trip for the angler, the pedestrian, or the water-colour painter. Leri dd. Montserrat. . Cardona. June. ■ Perpignan. [ Iran. rLogrono. I San Sebastian. Pamplona. < Bilbao. July. < Pyrenees. Aug. ( I Santander. Zaragoza. [ Burgos. [Huesca. 1 e. Shooting and Fishing Tours. Shooting. — Although game is not so universally preserved in Spain as among ourselves, yet it is abundant ; Nature, by covering the earth with aromatic brushwood in vast extents of uninhabited, uncultivated land, has afforded excellent cover to the wild beasts of the field and fowls of the air. Near Cadiz, Seville, and Madrid, some of the land- owners and farmers preserve the game on their own estates ; on other lands, near towns, the game is poached and destroyed at all seasons, more for pot considerations than for sport ; but wherever the lords of creation are rude and rare, the ferae, naturae are abundant, and take care of themselves. Spain was always the land of the rabbit (< conejo ), which the Phoenicians saw here for the first time, and hence some have traced the origin of the name Hispania to the Seplian , or rabbit of the Hebrew. This animal figured on the early coins of the cuniculosce Celti Jberice. Large ships freighted with them were regularly sent from Cadiz for the supply of Eome. The rabbit is still the favourite shooting of Spaniards, who look invariably to the larder. Pheasants are rare : a bird requiring artificial feeding cannot be expected to thrive in a country where half the population is underfed. Eed-legged partridges and hares are most plentiful. Thousands are exported every year to France. The mouths of the great rivers swarm with aquatic birds. In Andalucia the multitude of bustards and woodcocks is incredible. There is very little difficulty in procuring leave to shoot in Spain ; a licence to carry arms is required of every one, and another licence to shoot game. An Englishman will have no difficulty in obtaining the first, whilst the second is merely a question of paying the small annual tax, which varies in prices in certain localities. The moment a Spaniard gets out of town he shoulders a gun, for the custom of going armed is immemorial. Game is usually divided into great and small : the Caza mayor includes deer, venados , wild boars, javalis , and the chamois tribe, cobras montesas : by Caza menor is under- stood foxes, rabbits, partridges, and such like “ small deer.” Winter fowl is abundant wherever there is water, and the flights of quails and woodcocks, codornices y gallinetas , are quite marvellous. The English- man will find shooting in the neighbourhood of Seville and Gibraltar. Fishing. — The lover of the angle will find virgin rivers in Spain, that [ 22 ] § 14 . — Religious-Festival ancl Artistical Tours . jumble of mountains, down the bosoms of which they flow ; most of these abound in trout, and those which disembogue into the Bay of Biscay, in salmon. As good tackle is not to be procured in Spain, the angler will bring out everything from England. The best localities are La Granja, Palencia, Avila, Cuenca, and the whole country from El Yierzo, Galicia, the Asturias, the Basque provinces, and Pyrenean valleys. /. A Beligious-Festival Tour. Beligion has long been mixed up most intimately in every public, private, and social relation of Spain, as in all Catholic countries. The priesthood in Spain have, however, lost a great deal of their influence ; the enforced banishment of the holy orders, consequent upon the popular emeute of 1834, was followed by the royal decree of the 17th July, 1867, which abolished the innumerable holidays and saints’ days, with the exception of Christmas Day, All Saints, Ail Souls, St. Peter and St. Paul, St. James, together with seven others held in honour of the Virgin. The church ceremonials, on grand days, although now much shorn of their original splendour, are still very grand, and should always be visited, and especially when celebrated in honour of the tutelar saint or miracle of any particular district : local costumes and manners will be best studied at the Fiestas y Romerias , the Festivals and Pilgrimages to some high place or shrine, and at the Veladas , the Wakes or Vigils, the German Kirchweihe , which in a fine climate are at once attractive and picturesque. Akin to these are the Ferias or fairs, a word which also has a double meaning for the Spaniards, who, imitating the Moors at Mecca, have always been permitted to combine a little traffic with devotion. These local festivities have, however, sadly fallen off from the large attendance they had on their first establishment. The principal local saints, sites of pilgrimage, and leading fairs will be mentioned in their respective places : travellers curious in these fes- tivals should endeavour to be at Valencia, April 5 ; at Andujar, April 28 ; Madrid , May 15 ; Honda, May 20 ; and Santiago, July 25 ; and should always remember to be in some great city during the Holy Week or Semana Santa (Seville is the best), and during Corpus Christi, a moveable feast which takes place the first Thursday after Trinity Sunday, and is celebrated everywhere in Spain with great pomp, especially at Seville, Granada, Valencia, Barcelona, and Toledo. The services connected with the dead on the days of All Saints and All Souls in the beginning of November deserve notice ; also the fes- tivities of Christmas and Carnival time, which are more joyous, and very national and peculiar. g . An Artistical Tour. Konda. Avila. Santander. Gibraltar. Plasencia. Bilbao. Alhama. Yuste. Vera. Malaga. Batuecas. Jaca. Granada. El Vierzo. Huesca. Lanjaron. Cangas de Tineo. Pyrenees. Elche. Oviedo. Manresa. Cuenca. Pajares. Montserrat. Toledo. Escorial. Reinosa, Rosas, § 14 . — Naturalists , Antiquarian , and Ecclesiological Tours . [ 23 ] Tour for Naturalists. — Botany. The natural history of Spain has yet to be really investigated and described. This indeed is a subject worthy of all who wish to “book something new,” and the soil is almost virgin. The harvest is rich, and, although labourers have long been wanting, able pioneers have broken the ground, and a zealous band is following. The great extent and peculiar conformation of the Peninsula offer every possible scope to the geologist and botanist. The damp valleys of the Asturias and the western provinces combine the varieties of Wales and Switzerland ; the central portions contain the finest cereal regions in the world ; while the mountains of Andalucia, covered with eternal snow, furnish an entire botanical range from the hardiest lichen to the sugar-cane which flourishes at their bases : vast districts of dehesas , or abandoned tracts, bear in spring-time the aspect of a hot-house growing wild ; such is the profusion of flowers which waste their sweets, noted and gathered but imperfectly, in this Paradise of the wild bee, this garden of weeds.* The eastern and southern portions of Spain should not be visited before May, or the northern much before June. i. Antiquarian Tours. The Peninsula may be divided into regions which contain peculiar objects of interest. The vestiges of epochs run in strata, according to the residence of the different nations who have occupied Spain ; thus the Roman, Moorish, and Gotho-Spaniard periods are marked by evidences distinguishing and indelible as fossils. Roman antiquities are to be met with in almost the whole of the Peninsula, but the student will find the following localities most worth visiting. (A) Roman Antiquities. Honda. Malaga. Antequera. Jerez. Italica (Seville). Cazlona (Jaen). Merida. Talavera la Vieja (Toledo). Avila. Leon. Clunia (Burgos}. Numancia (Soria). Cabeza del Griego (Poles). Elche (Alicante). Murviedro (Valencia). Tarragona. (B) Moorish Antiquities. Seville. | Granada. I Toledo. Cordova. | Zaragoza. i: h. Ecclesiological Tour — on visiting Churches. Seville. Cordova. Granada. Toledo. Cuenca. Siguenza. Soria. Escorial. Segovia. Avila. Salamanca. Toro. * Consult on the “Flora Hispanica ” the works of Qtier Cavanillas and those named by Miguel Colmeiro, 8vo., 1846, in his list of Spanish botanical books. The botanist and entomologist may peruse with advantage the ‘ Reise-Erinneruhgen, aus Spanien’ by E. A. Rossmassler, 2 vols., Leipzig, 1854, especially on the subject of snails. [ 24 ] 14:— Ecclesiological Tour . Zamora. Santiago, Oviedo. Leon. Ecclesiological Tour — continued . Burgos. Valladolid, Pamplona. Lerida, Barcelona. Gerona. Astorga. Palencia. Huesca. Zaragoza. Tarragona. Valencia. Santiago, Oviedo, Pamplona, and Barcelona, may be chosen as head- quarters for ecclesiological excursions of the greatest interest. The most remarkable churches and cathedrals will be found in this route ; the other examples worth observation will be pointed out in their respective localities. As a general rule, the student should care- fully examine the metropolitan cathedral of each see, as it will be usually found to furnish the type of the minor collegiate and parochial churches within the diocese ; and although a general homogeneous style marks architectural periods throughout the Peninsula, yet archi- tecture, like dialects and costume, has its localisms and provincialisms, which are very pronounced in Spain. Hours for visiting Churches . — Some churches are open through the day, except from 12 to 2 or 3, when they are closed. Parish churches are open earlier than others. Churches attached to convents seldom remain open later than 9 or 10. Some cathedrals remain open all day, others are shut at 12. The proper time to see the coro and side chapels is after high mass, which is usually at 9 o’clock, or before coro in the afternoon. Churches may be seen when closed by sending for the sacristan, but it entails trouble and delay, and many may be glad to escape the fee necessary to a guide summoned from a distance. The stranger may be made acquainted with some of the leading dis- positions and technical terms, as regards the Cathedrals of Spain, which necessarily form a leading item in the “ what to observe” of intelligent investigators, and one especial object of this Handbook. The exteriors are often surrounded with a long platform, or lonja , which, if ascended to by steps, is called a gradus, Agrees;” the principal front is fre- quently left unfinished, first in order to disarm the evil eye, and next to serve as a constant pretext for begging pious contributions for its completion. The western entrance commonly presents the chief facade, and is called fachada principal; the nave, naves , is supported by piers, pilastras, from whence springs the roof, boveda . The side aisles (alas, wings) are called laterales , co-laterales ; at the doorways is a pila , stoup, or benitier, which contains the agua bendita , or holy water. The choir, coro, is placed in the middle of the nave in Spanish cathe- drals, thus blocking it up and concealing the high altar ; its back, which fronts the spectator who enters from the west, is called el trascoro ; the lateral sides are called los respaldos del coro , over which the organs are usually placed. The choir is lined with stalls, sillas; the seats, silleria del coro , are generally carved, and often most beautifully, as are the desks of the choristers’ books, los atriles, and the lecterns or facistoles. Opposite the coro an open space marks the centre of the transept, crucero, over which rises the great dome or central tower, el cimborio : this space is called the “ entre los dos coros; ” it divides the choir from the § 14 . — Ecclesiological Tour. [ 25 ] high altar, and is usually isolated and fenced off by a reja , “ parelose,” or railing ; these and the cancelas , gratings (whence comes our term chan- cel), are among the most remarkable and artistic peculiarities of Spain. The pulpits, pulpitos, generally two in number, are placed in the angle outside the chancel ; they are fixed N.W. and S.W., in order that the preacher may face the congregation, who look towards the high altar, without his turning his back to it. Ascending usually by steps is the capilla mayor , el presbiterio , where is the high altar, el altar mayor , on which is placed a tabernacle, el ciborio , under which the consecrated wafer is placed in a viril , or open “monstrance,” whenever it is displayed, or manifestado. When the wafer is not so exhibited, it is enclosed in a sagrario , or tabernacle. In some highly privileged churches, as at Lugo and Leon , the wafer is continually dis- played for public adoration ; in others, only at particular times : but generally, in great towns, this privilege is conceded to all the churches by rotation, and continues during 40 hours, las cuarenta horas, which are duly mentioned in almanacs and newspapers. From the high altar rises a screen, or reredos, called el retablo ; these, often most magnificent, are reared high aloft, and crowned with a “ holy rood,” la Santa Cruz, which is the representation of Christ on the Cross, with St. John and the Virgin at his side. The retablos, most elaborately designed, carved, painted, and gilt, are divided into compartments, either by niches or intercolumniations ; the spaces are filled with paintings or sculpture, generally representing the life of the Virgin, or of the Saviour, or subjects taken from the Bible, or from the local legends and tutelars. The place of honour is usually assigned to la Virgen Santisima, the most blessed one, the Virgin, the “ Queen of Heaven” (Jer. xliv. 17). Few Spaniards at any time, when traversing a cathedral, pass the high altar without bowing and crossing themselves, since the incarnate Host is placed thereon : and in order not to offend, every considerate Protestant should also manifest an outiuard respect for this custom. Sometimes kings, queens, and princes are buried near the high altar, which is then called a capilla real. The sarcophagus, or bed on which the figures representing the deceased kneel or lie, is called urna. Spaniards, in designating the right and left of the altar, generally use the terms lado del Evangelio, lado de la Epistola: the Gospel side, i.e. the left of the celebrant ; the Epistle side, i.e. right ; these are the spots occupied by the minister while reading those portions of the service. The altar on grand occasions is decked with superbly embroidered coverlets ; a complete set of vestments when three priests officiate is called el terno. The piers of the nave are then hung with damask or velvet hangings, colgaduras ; the back of the altar is called el trasaltar. Spanish cathedrals generally have a chapel fitted up as a parish church attached to them, and called la parroquia, often el Sagrario ; whilst many have also another chapel called a “ royal chapel,” capilla real , in each of which separate services are performed by separate establishments of clergy. The chapter-houses should always be visited. The sola del cabildo, sala capitular , have frequently an ante- room, antesala , and both generally contain carvings and pictures. The Sagrario is a term used for the additional chapel which is some- [26] § 14 . — Dilettante Tour : Sculpture. times appended to the cathedral, and also for the chamber, el relicario , where the relics and sacred vessels of silver and gold are kept. Specimens of church-plate worth notice are the altar candlesticks, candeleros, blandones ; the calix , or sacramental cup; the porta pax , in which relics are enclosed, and offered to devout osculation; the cruces , crosses ; baculos, croziers ; and the vergers’ staves, cetros . The traveller should always inquire if there be a custodia , whether of silver, plata, or of silver gilt, sobredorada. They are called custodias , because in them, on grand festivals, the consecrated Host is kept. The custodia , containing the wafer, thus guarded , is deposited on Good Friday in the sepulchre, el monumento . This temporary monument in some cathedrals — Seville, for instance — is of great architectural splendour. The vestry is called la sacristia , and its official servant, el sacristan : here the robes and utensils of the officiating ministers are put away. These saloons are frequently remarkable for the profusion of mirrors which are hung, like pictures, all around over the presses : the looking- glasses are slanted forwards, in order that the priest, when arrayed, may have a full-length view of himself in these clerical Psyches. The dresses and copes of the clergy are magnificently embroidered. The painted glass in the windows, las vidrieras, is often most superb, although the Spaniards themselves have produced very few artists in this chemical branch, and mostly employed painters from Flanders and Germany. The best glass painters in Spain were El Maestro Dolfin , 1418; Pedro Bonifacio , 1439; Pedro Frances , 1459; Juan de Santillana , 1480; Juan de Valdevieso , 1480; and Alberto dc Holanda , 1520. The chief rejeros or makers of the exquisite parcloses, railings, are Christobal Andino , 1520; Francisco de Salamanca , 1533; Domingo Cespedes, 1548 ; Gaspar Rodriguez , 1555 ; Francisco de Villalpando , 1561 ; Juan Bautista Gelma , 1600. Their works are of the highest merit and interest, and quite unrivalled in Europe ; , they flourished in the gold and silver ages of Spain. The most remarkable plateros or workers in silver are Bartolome , 1325 ; the D'Arfe family, circa 1520-1577 ; Juan Ruiz , el Vandolino , 1533 ; and Alonso de Becerril , 1534. Unfortunately the value of the mere material has tempted the spoiler, and consigned to the melting-pot many precious remains of ancient piety, art, and magnificence.* 1 . Dilettante Tour — Sculpture. Seville. Escorial. Huesca. Granada. Avila. Tarragona. Murcia. Salamanca. Oviedo. Valencia. Leon. Astorga. Cuenca. Valladolid. Santiago. Madrid. Burgos, Pamplona. Toledo. Zaragoza. Gerona. Judging by the remains of sculpture which continually appear in Spain, and by the Koman inscriptions which mention dedications of * For further information concerning embroideries, painted glass, and silversmiths, consult ‘ Diccionario ’ by Cean Bermudez, ‘Documentos para la Historia de las Bellas ArteS/ by Zarco del Valle, and ‘ The Industrial Arts of Spain,’ by Juan F. Riano. Published for the Committee of Council on Education, 1879. § 14.— Dilettante Tour : Sculpture. [27 J statues, the number which existed must have been very great. It is impossible, however, to determine how many of these may have been the work of Spanish artists of the period, for the sculpture that remains is decidedly Roman in character. Roman epigraphy in Spain is the most numerous in Europe, with the exception of Italy. The number of inscriptions hitherto published amounts to nearly 5500. Among them more than 100 commemorate public statues, many of which were made of silver and bronze (see Corp. Inscrip ., by Emile Hiibner). The few statues which have reached us in marble, which are at the Madrid museums and in the provinces, give but a poor idea of the statuary which existed in Spain during the Roman time. We may mention as works by Spanish artists some sculptures of a very remote period which have been found at Avila , Guisando , Segovia , and other localities of the centre of Spain ; they represent wild boars, bulls, or bears, and are not wanting in expression. They are called Toros de Guisando ; they are very ancient, and have been used by the Romans to place inscriptions. Another group of Spanish sculpture which, at any rate, is different to the usual style adopted by Roman artists, is that of the statuary and architectural remains discovered at Yecla , in the province of Alicante. This collection consists of more than fifty statues and fragments ; most of the statues are smaller than life. Some of the heads are similar in manner and type to the hieratic types of Etruria or Asia Minor. Others are Roman in character, and appear to belong to the first or second century of our era. Others, and the most interesting of all, are distinguished by attributes and emblems not generally in use. Most of these statues represent female figures standing or seated, dressed with an elaborate costume, their heads covered with ornate drapery ; some carry cups in their hands, which are empty, or from which issue flames. These and other attributes, such as stars, discs, suns, moons, lamps, and bulls, which hang from their necks, or are represented oil their vestments, would make it appear that they belong to a solar deity, perhaps to the creed of Mithras, Osiris, and others in connexion with the ancient mysteries introduced into the West with the first Roman emperors. The remains which still exist of the building where these statues were discovered are not unlike the Mithraca in the Duchy of Nassau. A great number of fragments, with Egyptian and Oriental ornamentation, were found with these statues, some with inscriptions in Iberic, or Greek characters, in an unknown language ; the translations hitherto made are not satisfactory. These sculptures may be studied at the Archaeological Museum at Madrid. There are numerous sepulchres ornamented with bas-reliefs belong- ing to the first centuries of our era in Spain, pagan and Christian. At the Church of St. Felix , at Gerona , six are let into the wall of the presbytery. They will be described in their proper place. None of them, however, present a different character to those generally to be observed in these monuments. The history of sculpture in Spain is interrupted from the establish- ment of the Yisigothic monarchy, in the fifth century, until the ninth or tenth. The intagli and silversmith’s work of this period is not sufficient to judge the art of the time, and although some image may be supposed to be of that time, it is difficult to affirm it. [ 28 ] § 14 . — Dilettante Tour: Sculpture. In the ninth and tenth centuries statuary exists which proceeds from two different sources, Christian and Moor. On the doorway of the Monastery of San Salvador de Leire , Navarre , there are a series of stone figures, mixed with others of a later date, which are probably of the first half of the ninth century, for St. Eulogio of Cordova visited the monastery at that time, and found it at a great height of artistic culture. The figures on the reliefs of St. Miguel de Lino , near Oviedo, are rather later in date, and more barbarous in style. One of the most important specimens of Moorish sculptures which exists in Spain is the fine ivory casket at the Cathedral of Pamplona. It represents a variety of sub- jects with figures ; round it is an inscription in Cufic letters, stating that it was ordered to be made by the liagio , or minister, Abdul Maleh , under the direction of his high eunuch, Nomay r , the 395th year of the Hegira (1005 a.c.). During the eleventh and twelfth centuries sculpture and architecture in Spain reproduce with great similarity the same artistic forms which were common to the rest of Europe, except Italy. A great many specimens exist of this period, especially in the portals and cloisters of the churches of the period, which will be pointed out in their proper place. It is probable that in the same manner as the architects who worked in Spain came from France and the north, that the greater number of the sculptors were also foreigners. The fine doorway of the Cathedral of Santiago must be mentioned ; it was carved in the twelfth century by Master Mateo. The great number of statues and reliefs which adorn it, and its high artistic merit, render it one of the most important specimens of the kind in Europe. At the South Kensington Museum there is a reproduction of this doorway. In the thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries sculpture in Spain follows the usual course, and copies French and Italian models. The similarity is very great in the treatment of the sculpture on the doorways of cathedrals. The number of examples of this period is very great in Spain. At Burgos , Toledo , Leon , Navarre , and Cataluna , most important specimens will be found. The few names of sculptors which arc known, belonging to the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, are generally foreigners. The same foreign influence may be observed in the fifteenth century, but they alternate with Spanish artists. More than sixty Spanish sculptors worked during this century (see Cean Bermudez, 1 Dice, de las Bellas Artes’ ). It is frequently the case in Spain that artistic novelties, after having been imported, take root with great facility, and are developed by Spaniards with great success. The retablos, choir-seats, sepulchres, and some cloisters, such as the one at Pamplona , deserve a special mention. They give a good idea of this mixture of schools, which was common in Spain during the second half of the fifteenth and beginning of the sixteenth century ; some are the work of Germans, others are by Italians or Frenchmen, and many are by Spaniards. The devotional images which remain, belonging to this period, are interesting. They may be divided into two groups — Poods (figures of our Lord crucified), and figures of the Blessed Virgin. The first, as a general rule, represent in an exaggerated manner physical pain and are § 14. — Dilettante Tour : Sculpture. [29] most repugnant, and anti-artistic specimens may be seen in most of the principal Spanish towns. The crucifix (called Del Cid) at the Cathedral of Salamanca is one of the oldest. The Cristo de Burgos carries to the utmost extent the exaggerations and bad taste of this school. This style must have been common in Europe ; the Rood at Candds , Asturias , is of the same kind — it was brought from England during the reign of Henry VI II. The images of the Blessed Virgin are not so exaggerated. There are a large number, called Aparecidas , most of which are black. The most famous in Spain are those at Zaragoza , del Pilar , Montserrat, Atoclia , Sagrario de Toledo , Guadalupe, &c. They are literally covered with jewels, and nothing is left visible but the face. It would be most interesting to study these images as archaeological sculptures; some must belong to a very remote period, probably to the Visigothic period, and in the midst of the fables which surround their history some truth must exist of their apparition — they were undoubtedly hidden by the Christians at the invasion of the Moors. Most of these images belong to this period. There are other images of the Blessed Virgin which are covered with a silver-plating, a reminiscence of Byzantine art. Two of this style may be studied at the Cathedral of Astorga. In the Renaissance period sculpture attains in Spain its greatest excellence. It coincides with the richest and most flourishing reigns, and Italian models are preferred. Spanish sculpture has never been properly appreciated ; it has, at least, as much importance as Spanish painting. Berruguete, Becerra , Villalpando , Montunes, Cano, and others, can compete with the best sculptors of the time. The principal tendency of the time was to represent religious subjects ; mytho- logical subjects, which were so much in vogue in Italy, were never very popular in Spain. Among the great number of artists whose names have reached us, two are of the greatest importance — Vigarny, a Frenchman, and Berruguete, a Spaniard. Their work can be com- pared in the choir at Toledo, the finest in Spain. Many Spanish and foreign artists succeeded these, who kept up during the sixteenth century good artistic examples. A great quantity of works in stone, iron, bronze, and wood remain of this period. The principal localities where they may be studied are Seville, Toledo, Salamanca, Valladolid, aud Burgos. During the whole of the sixteenth century wooden sculpture was always painted, in Spain and elsewhere. At the end of this period the flesh-tints are greatly exaggerated, and the texture of the draperies is one of the principal characteristics of Spanish sculpture ; it is contrary to the conditions of this art, the principal element of which is form, not colour. Spanish artists in their imitations of stuffs, estofar, reached in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries the limits of realism. Religious images are multiplied during this period to a great extent, not only to be placed on the altars and retdblos , but for the Pasos, used in the processions of Holy Week. These groups may still be seen at Seville, Valladolid , Murcia , and other towns. These Pasos are groups of life-size figures arranged on boards, which are carried by men. They represent scenes from the Passion of Our Lord, and many are most remarkable as works of art. The climax of painted sculpture in Spain may be considered to be § 15 .- — Tables of Kings. [ 30 ] in the seventeenth century. Alonso Cano was an excellent sculptor and painter ; his best works are at Granada. To the realistic tendency of imitating the tints of the flesh was soon added another characteristic tendency of Spanish sculpture, which continues in the present day. It consists in making a lay figure or frame, which has only the head and hands sculptured, and is dressed with a voluminous petticoat and wig to please the taste of the devout. It is the most extreme point to which the degradation of the fine arts can reach. The Spanish Church has opposed itself from the beginning to this abuse, as may be seen in the synodals published by the bishops after the Council of Trent ; unfortunately, however, fanaticism has more power than ecclesiastical legislation. Spanish sculpture after Cano and his school is hardly worth men- tioning. From the end of the seventeenth century until the eighteenth it has all the bad taste of the time. The statues of Spanish kings which may be seen at Madrid give a good idea of the inferiority of the artist’s work. At the end of the last century the same classical revival occurred here as in other countries. Alvarez is the sculptor who may be considered the best representative of this school. His best works are at Madrid. The Catalan artists, Bunol , Bellver , and the brothers Valmitjana , are excellent representatives of Spanish sculpture in the present day. § 15. — Chronological Tables. No. I. Carthaginian Domination in Spain .. Roman Domination . . . . . . Wisigothic Domination .. WisigotluG Kings . A.D. Ataulfo 414, D. 417 Sigerico „ 417 Walia » 420 Teodoredo „ 451 Turismundo „ 454 Teodorico » 466 Eurico .. 483 This king, after conquerin ig the Suevi and other races, is con- sidered the founder of the mon- archy. Alarico D. 505 Gesaleico .. 510 Amalarico .. 531 Teudis .. 548 Teudiselo .. 549 Agila .. 554 Atanagildo .. 567 Liuva I .. 572 238 to 200 b.c. .. .. 200 B.C. to 414 A. d. .. 414 „ 711 „ A.T). Leovigildo .. 58(3 After destroying the barbarians that still remained in the country, he was the first king who ruled over the whole of the Peninsula. Recaredo 1 601 Summoned the 3rd Council of Toledo, renounced Arianism, and became the first Catholic king of Spain. Liuva IT 603 Witeric© 610 Gundemaro . . 612 Sisebuto 621 Recaredo II 62 1 Suintila 631 Sisenando 635 Tulga 640 Chindasvinto 650 Recesvinto 672 § 15 . — Tables of Kings, [ 31 ] Wisigothic Kings (continued). Wamba Ervigio Egica Witiza Don Rodrigo The Moors entered Spain and de- feated Don Rodrigo at the battle of Guadalete, who disappeared there. The Moors occupied in the two following years almost the whole of the Peninsula, and governed under the dependence of the Kaliphs of Damascus. A.D. 680 687 701 709 711 Moorish Eulers in Spain, Amirs dependent on the Kaliphs of Damascus 711-715 Independent Kaliphate established by the Ummeyah family, the capital being Cordova .. 755-1009 Kings of Taifas, governors of the provinces which declared them- selves independent during the last kaliphate, Hischen II. .. 1009-1090 The Almoravides from Africa esta- blished themselves in the Moorish territory of the Peninsula 1090-1157 The Almohades conquered the Al- moravides 1157-1212 Kings of Granada. The Moorish domination is reduced to the kingdom of Granada .. 1226-1492 The rule of the Moors in Spain ends in 1492, at the conquest of Granada. Kings of Asturias , Leon, and Castile. Pelayo (the re-conquest begins) 71 8, D. 737 Favila 739 Alonso I., el Catolico 757 Favila I. (fixes his Court at Oviedo) 768 Aurelio 774 Silo 783 Mauregato 788 BermudoI.,el Diacono .. .. 795 Alonso II., el Casto 843 Ramiro 1 850 Ordono 1 866 Alonso III., el Magno 910 Divided the kingdom of Galicia, Leon, and Asturias, among his sons, the three following kings. Garcia 913 Kings of Asturias, Leon , and Castile (continued). a.d. Ordono II 923 Fruela II 924 Ordono fixed his Court at Leon, and here end the named kings of Asturias. Alonso IV., el Monge 930 Ramiro II 950 Ordono III 955 Sancho I., el Craso 967 Ramiro III 982 Bermudo II 999 Alonso V., el Noble 1028 Bermudo III 1037 The territory of Castile, which formed a separate state, go- verned by Condes , passed to Doha Sancha and Don Fer- nando I., who entitled themselves Kings of Castile and Leon. Fernando I. and Doha Sancha .. 1065 Sancho II., el Fuerte 1073 Alfonso VI 1108 (Conquered Toledo in 1085.) Doha Urraca 1126 Alfonso YII., el Emperador .. .. 1157 At his death the kingdoms of Castile and Leon are divided among the six following kings. Sancho III. (Castilla) 1158 Fernando II. (Leon) 1188 Alfonso VIII. (Castilla) .. .. 1214 Alfonso IX. (Leon) 1230 Enrique I. (Castilla) 1217 Doha Berenguela, who abdicated the crown of Castile in favour of her son, Fernando III., who in- herited also the crown of Leon, from his father, Alfonso IX. Fernando III., King of Castile and Leon 1252 He conquered Cordova, Jaen, and Seville. Alonso X., el Sabio 1284 Sancho IV., el Bravo 1295 Fernando IV., el Emplazado.. .. 1312 Alonso XI 1350 Pedro I., el Cruel 1369 Enrique II., el Bastardo .. .. 1379 Juan I. 1390 Enrique III., el Doliente . . . . 1407 Juan II 1454 Enrique IV., el Impotente . . . . 1474 Doha Isabel, la Catolica .. .. 1504 Fernando V. de Aragon .. .. 1516 § 15 . — Tables of Kings, [ 32 ] Kings of Asturias , Leon, and Castile (continued). a.d. Dona Juana, la loca 1555 Felipe I., el Hermoso (first king of the House of Austria) .. .. 1505 Carlos V., Emperador 1558 Felipe II 1598 Felipe III 1621 Felipe IV 1665 Carlos II 1700 Felipe V. (first king of the house of Bourbon) abdicated in .. .. 1724 Luis I. .. 1724 Felipe V 1746 Fernando VI 1759 Carlos III 1788 Carlos IV., abdicated 1808 Fernando VII 1833 Isabel II., dethroned 1868 Gobierno Provisional 1871 Amadeo de Saboya, abdicated .. 1873 Spanish Republic .. 1874 Alfonso XI L Kings of Navarre. The inhabitants of Navarre began the re-conquest from the middle of the 8th century. Their rulers were called condes, or kings, until Sancho Abarca widened the territory ; from that time they are always called kings of Na- varre. Sancho Abarca 980 — 994 Garcia III 1000 Sancho III., el Mayor .. .. ,. 1038 Garcia IV 1057 Sancho IV 1076 Sancho Ramirez V 1092 This king, and the two that fol- low, were likewise kings of Aragon. Pedro I .. .. 1106 Alfonso, el Batallador 1134 Garcia Ramirez IV 1150 Sancho VI., el Sabio 1194 Sancho VII., el Fuerte 1234 Here begin the kings of the House of Champagne. Teobaldo 1 1253 Teobaldo II 1270 Enrique 1 1273 Juana I. 1304 On* her marriage with Philip le Bel, Navarre passed to the house of France. Kings of Navarre (continued), a.d. Luis Hutin 1316 Felipe le Long 1320 Carlos I. de Navarra, IV. de Francia 1329 Juana II 1343 Carlos II. d’Evreux 1387 Carlos I II 1425 Dona Blanca y Juan 1 1479 Francisco Febo 1483 Catalina 1512 Fernando V. of Navarre took possession in 1512 of Navarre, and it was then incorporated with Castile. Kings of Aragon. Aragon belonged to the king- dom of Navarre until Sancho III. gave it to his soil Ramiro. Ramiro 1 1035, D c 1063 Sancho 1 1094 Pedro 1 1104 Alfonso I., el Batallador .. . . 1134 Ramiro 11. , el Monge 1137 Aragon and Cataluna are united. Petronila 1162 Alfonso II 1196 Pedro II. 1213 Jaime I., el Conquistador .. .. 1276 Pedro III 1285 Sicily is united to Aragon. Alfonso III 1291 Jaime II 1327 Alfonso IV 1336 Pedro IV. .. 1387 Juan 1 1395 Martin 1410 Fernando, el de Antequera .. .. 1416 Alfonso V 1458 Juan II 1479 Fernando el Catolico. Aragon passes to the crown of Castile. - Counts of Barcelona. In the 8th and 9th centuries Cataluna belonged to Charle- magne and his successors. Wil- fredo was the first independent Conde. Wilfredo el Belloso .. .. 864—898 Borrell 1 912 Suniario 917 Borrell IT. and his brother Miron 992 § 15 . — Tables of Kings. [33] Counts of Barcelona (continued), a.d. Ramon Borrell 1018 Ramon Berenguer I. .. .. .. 1025 Ramon Berenguer II 1077 Berenguer and Ramon Beren- guer III ..1113 Counts of Barcelona (continued), a.d. Ramon Berenguer IV. ., .. .. 1131 Ramon Berenguer V. married Dona Petronila de Aragon, and this kingdom was incorporated with the Condado de Cataluna. No. II. Contemporary Sovereigns . The periods have been selected during which Spanish history have occurred. leading events in A.D. Spain. England. 800 Alonso II. el Casto . . Egbert 877 Alonso III. el Magno Alfred .. 996 Ramiro III Ethelred II. .. 1075 Sancho II (William the 1 t Conqueror j 1155 Alfonso VII Henry II. 1245 San Fernando .. Henry III. .. 1345 Alfonso XI Edward III. .. 1360 Pedro el Cruel Edward III. .. 1485 Isabel la Catolica .. Henry VII. .. 1515 Fernando de Aragon Henry VIII. .. 1550 Carlos V Edward VI. .. 1560 Felipe II Elizabeth 1644 Felipe IV Charles I. 1705 Felipe V Anne 1760 Carlos III George III. .. 1808 Fernando VII. George III. .. 1840 Isabel II > Victoria 1877 Alfonso XII 1 France. Charlemagne . Louis II. Hugh Capet . Philip I. Louis VII. . St. Louis Philip VI. . John II. Charles VIII. Francis I. Henry II. Charles IX. . Louis XIV. . Louis XIV. . Louis XV. . Napoleon I. . Louis-Philippe Napoleon III. French Republic. Rome. Leo III. John VII. Gregory V. Gregory VII. | Adrian IV. (Breakspeare. Innocent IV. Benedict VI. Innocent VI. Innocent VIII. Leo X. Paul III. Pius IV. Innocent X. Clement XI. Clement XIII. Pius VII. Gregory XVI. and Pius IX. Leo XIII. ){ The antiquary will often meet with the date Era on old inscriptions. This mode of reckoning prevailed in the Boman dominions, and arose from the date of the particular payment of taxes, ops, cera. It com- menced in the fourth year of Augustus Caesar. To make the Era correspond with the Anno Domini , 38 years must be added ; thus : a.d. 1200 is equivalent to Era 1238. The Moorish Hegira commences from Friday, July 16, A.D. 622, — Era 660. The New Style was intro- duced by Gregory XIII. into Spain in 1582. October 5, of the Old Style, was then called October 15. This must be remembered, for the New Style was only introduced into England in 1751. [Spain. — 1882.] d [ 34 ] § 16 .— Spanish Conversation: Phrases . 16.— Spanish Conversation: Phrases. Verb Haber. To have. Indicative Present. yo he, I have. tu has, thou hast. el 6 ella ha, he or she has. nosotros 6 nosotras we have. hemos. vosotros 6 vosotras you have. habeis, ellos 6 ellas han, they have. Verb Ser. To be. yo soy, I am. tu eres. thou art. ^1 6 ella es, he or she is. nosotros 6 nosotras we are. somos, vosotros 6 vosotras you are. sois, ustedes son f ellos 6 ellas son, they are. The other tenses are : Pret. Imp. yo habia, yo era. Pret. Per. yo hube, yo fui. Plusquamperf. yo habia habido, ha- bia sido. Fut. Imp. yo habre' sido.' Fut. Perf. yo habre habido, ha- brd sido. Imperat. hava yo, sea yo. Sub. Pres. yo haya, yo sea. Sub. Pret. Imp. yo hubiera, habria, hubiese; fuera, se- ria, fuese. Sub. Pret. Perf. yo hubiera, habria, hubiese habido ; do . do. do. sido. Infin. haber, ser. Particip. habido, sido. Gerundio. habiendo, siendo. Particip. Perf. haber habido o sido. Verb Estar . To be (temporarily). yo estoy, I am. tu estas, thou art. el 6 ella esta, he or she is. nosotros estamos, we are. vosotros estais, you are. ellos 6 ellas estan, they are. The other tenses are : Pret. Imp. yo estaba. Pret. Per. yo estuve. Plusquamperf. yo habia estado. Fut. Imp; yo estard. Fut. Perf. yo habre estado. Imperat. este yo. Sub. Pres. yo este. Sub. Pret. Imp. yo estu viera, estaria, estuviere. Sub. Pret. Perf. yo hubiera, habria, 6 hubiese estado. Inf. estar. Particip. estado. Gerundio, estando. Particip. Perf. haber estado. Verb Tener. To have, or possess. Indicative Present . yo tengo, I have. tu tienes, thou hast. el tiene, he has. nosotros tenemos. , we have. vosotros teneis : or better, usted tiene , you have. ellos tienen, they have. N.B. To have (possessive) is Tener . I have dined, He comido. I possess a dog, Tengo un perro. Days. Lunes, Monday. Martes, Tuesday. Miercoles, Wednesday. Thursday. Jueves, Viernes, Friday. Sabado, Domingo, Saturday. Sunday. ayer, yesterday. hoy, to-day. manana, to-morrow. Months . Enero, Febrero, Marzo, Abril, Mayo. Junio, Julio, Agosto, Setiembre, Octubie, Noviembre, Diciembre. Numbers. 1, uno. 1 6, diez y seis. 2, dos. 17, diez y siete. 3, tres. 18, diez y ocho. 4, cuatro^ 19, diez y nueve. 5, cinco. 20, veinte. 6, seis. 21, veinte y uno. 7, siete. 30, treinta. 8, ocho. 40, cuarenta. 9, nueve. 50, cincuenta. 10, diez. 60, sesenta. 11, once. 70, setenta. 12, doce. 80, ochenta. 13, trece. 90, noventa. 14, catorce. 100, ciento. 15, quince. 1000, mil. § 16 . — Spanish Conversation: Phrases . [ 35 ] Travelling by hallway and Steamboat. I Donde esta el despacho de billetes ? Deme usted un billete de primera 6 se- gunda clase. Facture V. (abbreviation for usted), el equipage y deme el talon. I Hay que pagar exceso ? Quiero un reservado, un coupe, una berlina. I Cuantos minutos para el tren ? I En que estacion hay fonda ? I Donde esta el reservado de senoras ? Quiero un bote para ir a bordo. I A que hora saldra el vapor ? I Ddnde esta la camara ? I Cual es mi camarote ? Que 11 even los abrigos y el saco al cama- rote. Traiga V. una palanquana. At ah l Cuanto lleva Y. aquf por persona ? I Cuanto es la habitacion sin la com i da ? I Hay un guia que sepa el frances ? I Hay chimenea ? no me gusta el brasero. I Tiene V. un cuarto con dos camas ? Quiero sala y alcoba. I Hay habitacion para una familia ? Quiero sabanas y almohadas limpias, mas toallas, una lamparilla, otra vela. Traiga Y. mas agua, agua fria, agua ca- liente, un bano de pies 6 barreno, un vaso, y una botella de agua. I Hay casa de banos aqul ? El camarero. La criada. Arregle Y. mi cuarto pronto. El escusado, or retrete. I Donde esta el comedor ? I A que hora se come y almuerza ? I Hay algun periodico ? Traiga Y. cafe, chocolate, te, leche de vacas, pan, manteca, cognac, agua de Seitz, huevos pasados por agua, cerveza, vino tinto y bianco, azucar, limon, fruta, y cigarros. Quiero dar esta ropa a lavar. Quiero que se lave y planche para pasado manana. I A que hora sale el omnibus para la esta- cion? Baje usted o suba usted el equipage. Quiero un coche para dar un paseo en el campo. Quiero caballos de montar. Traiga Y. la cuenta. Where is the booking-office ? Give me a first or second-class ticket. Register the luggage, and give me the baggage receipt. Must I pay for extra luggage ? I want a coupe, or reserved compartment. How long does the train stop here ? Where shall I find a buffet ? Where is the ladies’ carriage ? I want a boat to go on board. When does the steamer start ? Where is the cabin ? Which is my berth ? Take the rugs and carpet bag into the cabin. Bring a basin. Inn . What do you charge per day ? How much do you charge for the rooms without food ? Is there a guide who can speak French ? Is there a fireplace ? I don’t like a brazier. Have you a double-bedded room ? I want a bed-room and sitting-room. Have you apartments for a family ? 1 want clean sheets and pillow-cases, more towels, a night-light, another candle. Bring more water, cold water, hot water, a foot-bath, a glass, and a bottle of water. Is there a bath-house here ? The waiter. The maid-servant. Get my room ready soon. The w.c. Where is the dining-room ? At what hour is dinner and breakfast ready Can I have a newspaper ? Bring coffee, chocolate, tea, cows' milk, bread, butter, brandy, Seltzer water, boiled eggs, beer, red wine, white wine, eggs, sugar, lemon, fruit, and cigars. I want this linen washed. I wish this linen to be ready for the day after to-morrow. At what o’clock does the omnibus start for the station ? Take the luggage, up or down stairs. I want a carriage to drive in the country I want saddle-horses. Bring the bill. d 2 [36] § 17 .— Hints on Conduct — Travelling Companions. At a Post-Office. I D<5nde esta el correo ? I Hay cartas para raf? Tome Y. mi pasaporte. De'me V. sellos de franqueo, sell os para el extrangero, sellos para el interior, sellos de telegrafos. I Necesita mas sellos esta carta? Where is the post-office ? Are there any letters for me ? Here is my passport. Give me postage stamps, foreign stamps, Spanish stamps, telegraph stamps. Does this letter require more stamps ? At a Telegraph Office. I Donde esta la oficina del telegrafo ? I Comprende V. el ingles d frances? I Se puede mandar hoy este parte ? Cuanto vale? Where is the telegraph office ? Do you understand English or French ? Will this telegram go to-day ? How much is it ? ' The best method of acquiring the Spanish language is to establish oneself in a good casa de liuespedes , to avoid English society and con- versation, to read Don Quijote through and aloud before a master of a morning, and to be schooled by female tongues of an evening. The ladies of Spain prove better mistresses, and their lessons are more attended to by their pupils, than the inflections and irregular verbs of a language master. § 17. — Hints on Conduct — Travelling Companions. The observance of a few rules in a country where “ manners maketh man,” will render the traveller’s path one of peace and pleasantness. A word of advice may therefore be offered to English tourists about to visit Spain for the lirst time. The Spaniard is kind and courteous in his demeanour towards his fellow-passengers, both in railway car- riage, diligence, and hotel. No formal introduction is required before he offers you his cigar-case, his brandy bottle, and a share in whatever other creature comforts he may have brought with him for his and your use. If you wish to do the right thing , you will refuse once in the most affable manner ; but if the offer is again repeated you will frankly accept the proffered kindness, and return the compliment on the first fitting occasion. Never eat, or smoke a cigar, in the presence of fellow- voyagers, with- out first offering to share with them : it is, however, not necessary to repeat the offer more than once, and will be almost invariably declined. It is polite to lift your hat upon leaving or entering a railway carriage or diligence, and to wish your fellow-passengers a “ good day,” or an “ adieu,” as the occasion may require. Never grudge wearing out a hat or two by touching it or taking it off. In the Madrid tramcars this is not usual. Never lose your patience w T ith a Spanish official: always endeavour to maintain a quiet and unruffled demeanour, and try to imitate the Spaniard himself in his habit of “Designation,” taking his motto for your own , “Paciencia y barajar,” and above all things else remember, when nothing pleasant can be said, that “ \vhilst speech is silver, silence is often golden ! ” Always remember that every Spaniard (be his class what it may) § 17 . — Hints on Conduct — Travelling Companions . [ 37 ] considers himself a Caballero , a gentleman, and an old and well-born Christian one, Cristiano viejo y rancio i and therefore your equal. When his self-esteem and personal sensitiveness are once conciliated, he is quick to return the compliment, and to pay every deference to the judicious stranger by whom he is put in his proper place ; all attempt to bully and browbeat is loss of time, for Spaniards are not to be driven by a rod of iron, still less if wielded by a foreigner. Civil words are everywhere the best defence, and lifting the hat is the signal of peace and good will ; the sensitive Spaniard stiffens when hats are not off, and bristles up like a porcupine against the suspicion of a desaire. Be especially polite to officials, from the odious custom-house upwards. Dismiss the nonsense of robbers from your head, avoiding, however, all indiscreet exhibition of tempting baits, or chattering about your plans and movements. Avoid logomachies, or trying to convince the natives against their will ; it is arguing against a north-east wind, and a sheer loss of time, too ; for, in a fine, indolent climate, where there is little to do — the otiose twaddlers spin Castilian nonsense by the yard. In the large towns the costume of an English gentleman is the best ; the cashmere or alpaca is far preferable to cloth, which is intolerable in the hot weather. Many Spaniards wear linen suits in the summer, and linen cricket-shoes. Remember, when you meet any one, being yourself embozado or muffled up, to remove the folds of cloak or coat before you address him, as not to do so is a great incivility : again, when strangers continue to speak to you thus cloaked, and as it were disguised, be on your guard. The advance of civilization has caused a complete revolution in regard to the dress of both gentlemen and ladies, and the usual Parisian fashions are now everywhere adopted in the Peninsula. Black, however, is still the favourite colour for ladies 5 dresses. Bonnets and hats have now become the fashion, but mantillas are much worn, especially at church, and at the theatre and bull-fights. Parasols are used, but the fan is still the national protector against the sun ; small buff or white umbrellas, lined with green, are much used both by ladies and gentlemen during the summer months. A warm cloak or shawl is indispensable, as, in the evenings, the air is apt to be chilly, even during the spring and summer. Carry the least possible amount of luggage that you can, never for- getting that none is so heavy and useless in Spain as preconceived pre- judices and conventional foregone conclusions, although of genuine London or Paris manufacture. When you arrive at the place of your destination, if you wish to do or see anything out of the common way, call on the gobernador , alcalde , or chief authority, to state frankly your object, and request his permission. For riding tours and in all out-of-the-way districts, the traveller may adopt the national costume of the road ; to wit, the peaked hat, Sombrero gacho , calanes , the jacket of fur, the Zamarra or the one of cloth, the Marselles; the grand object is to pass incog, in the crowd, or if noticed, to be taken for a native — which no Englishman ever is. You may possibly thus escape the beggars, which are the plague of Spain, and have a knack of finding out a stranger, and of worrying and bleeding him as effectually as the [38] § 17. — Hints on Conduct — Travelling Companions. mosquitos. The regular form of uncharitable rejection is as follows : — Perdone V. ( usted ) por Dios, Hermano ? — “ My brother, will you excuse me, for God’s sake ? ” If this request be gravely said, the mendi- cant gives uphope of coppers. Any other answer except this specific one, only encourages importunity, as the beggars either do not believe in the reality of the refusal, or see at once that you are not a Spaniard, and therefore never leave off, until in despair you give them hush- money to silence their whine, thus bribing them to relieve you from the pleasure of their company. In church Spanish women generally seat themselves on the pavement when at prayers ; it is against all ecclesiastical propriety for a lady and gentleman, even man and wife, to walk about arm in arm in a church. Spaniards, on passing the high altar, always bow ; beware of talking during Mass, when the ringing of a little bell indicates the elevation of the Host. It is the custom to take off hats when the consecrated wafer is carried by in the streets ; and those Protestants who object to perform this act of respect should get out of the way, and not offend their Catholic brethren by a rude contempt of their most impressive ceremonial. Conform, as nearly as you can, to the hours and habits of the natives ; get up early, which is usual throughout Spain ; dine or rest in the middle of the day in summer, for when everybody is either at table or the siesta , it is no use to be running about sight- seeing when you are the only person awake. On all occasions remember that most locks in Spain are to be picked with a silver key, and almost every difficulty smoothed away by a properly ad- ministered bribe, and how small an additional percentage on the general expenditure of a tour through Spain is added by such trifling outlays ! Never wage a guerilla warfare about shillings and half-crowns, but have always plenty of small silver coins, for great is the amount of good will, and having your own ivay , to be purchased in Spain by the judicious use of pesetas. When on a riding journey, attend to the provend ; take a mos- quito net, and some solution of ammonia, the best antidote to their stings ; never rub your eyes when inflamed by sun-glare and dust except with your elbows, los ojos con los codos, but use hot water to them fre- quently, or a lotion of calomel and rose-water. “Prevention is far better than cure.” The only real safeguard consists in wearing a pair of German goggles during the glare of noontide. Letters of Introduction are desirable. In cities, when a lengthened stay is contemplated, their utility is obvious. They may be procured and taken on tours and excursions, but need not always be presented. Of service in cases of difficulty, they involve otherwise much loss of precious time in visits and in formal intercourse with strangers, whom one never saw before and may never meet again ; and for your life avoid being carried off from the fonda or posada to a hospitable native’s house, if freedom and taking “ ease in mine own inn ” have any charms. In choice of lodgings — in winter , secure upper floors which have a southern aspect ; in summer, a cuarto bajo (or ground-floor apartment) is the coolest. In Spain, during the cold months of the year, the sun § 17 . — Hints on Conduct — Travelling Companions. [ 39 ] supersedes the fire-place, and where his vivifying rays enter, the doctor goes out. Avoid the brasero , the pan of heated charcoal, the parent of headache and asphyxia ; if cold, trust rather to additional clothing than to charcoal ; keep your feet warm and the head cool, by avoiding exposure to midday sun and midnight bottle : above all things, carry not the gastronomies of the cold North into the hot South. Live as the natives do, consuming little meat and less wine ; sleep the midday siesta as they do, and avoid rash exposure to the delicious cool night breezes. Sleep high in low grounds and marshy districts, avoiding the ground-floor, as the poisonous malarias of fine climates creep on earth, and more so by night, when they are condensed, than by day ; throw physic to the dogs, avoiding constipation, and trusting to diet and quiet. Cod-liver oil may as well be taken out by consumptive travellers, as it is dear and indifferent in Spain. When you have letters of introduction to any Spaniards, both ladies and gentlemen should be very particular to be well dressed on the first visit of etiquette : black is the correct colour of ceremony. Call yourself with your credentials. If the parties called upon be out, leave your credentials and card, turning down a corner of the card, which means that you have called in person. When you ring at the door, probably an unseen person will exclaim, u Quien es ?” “Who’s there?” The correct countersign is, “ Gente de paz” “ 1 Persons of peace.” As the first visit is always formal, observe how you are treated, and practise the same behaviour exactly when the call is re- turned. You will be conducted to the best room, the sala de estrado y and then led up to the sofa, and placed on the right hand. Great care will be taken of your hat — type of grandeeship — which a well-bred Spaniard seizes and seats on a chair as if it were a person ; or insist on your putting it on : “ Cubrase V” is the highest compliment that can be paid to a friend. Be careful to pay this compliment always to the beaver of your visiting friend. When you get up to take leave, if of a lady, you should say, “A los pies de V. ( 'usted ), Benora “My lady, I place myself at your feet;” to which she will reply, u Beso a V. la mano , Caballero ,” “I kiss your hand, Sir:” “ Vaya V. con Dios , que V. lo pase bien ,” “May you depart with God, and con- tinue well;” to which you must reply, “ Quede V. con Dios y ” “May you remain with God.” Ladies seldom rise in Spain to receive male visitors ; they welcome female ones with kisses both at coming and going. On leaving a Spaniard’s house, observe if he thus addresses you, “ Esta casa, estd muy d la disposicion de V . cuando guste favorecerla “This house is entirely at your disposal, whenever you please to favour it.” Once thus invited, you become a friend of the family. If the compliment be omitted, it is clear that the owner never wishes to see you again. When a lady makes a visit, a well-bred host gives her his arm to the door of her carriage. Bemember always to pay a visit of ceremony to your male and female friends on their birthdays, or el dia de su santo , and to attend to your costume and put on your best black: on New Year’s day bring some small gift with you, as an aguinaldo. In walking with a Spaniard, if you wish to show him respect, take care to let him be inside, nearest the wall : the same nicety of relative position should be observed in [ 40 ] § 17 . — Hints on Conduct — Travelling Companions . seating him on a sofa or in a carriage. A well-bred man when he meets a lady always makes way for her, passing outside ; although the strict rule in street-walking, which, from their narrowness and the nice point of honour of touchy passengers, has been well defined, is that whoever has the wall on his or her right hand is entitled to keep it. On passing soldiers on duty, remember that the challenge of a Spanish sentry is “ Quien vive ?” The answer is “Espana.” Then follows “ Que gente?” The answer is “ Paisano” The sooner and clearer strangers answer the better, as silence rouses suspicion ; and in Spain, in times of revolution, a shot often precedes any explanation. When you meet your Spanish friends, stop, and attend carefully to the whole process of greetings in the market-place. These things are not done there in our curt and off-hand way, — How are you? You must inquire after the gentleman’s own health, that of his wife ( como esta mi Senora la esposa de H), his children, et cetera, and then you will be thought to be a hombre tan formal y cumplido como nosotros , that is, as well-bred as a Spaniard. If when walking with a Spaniard you pass your own house, do not fail to ask him whether he will not step* in and rest himself a little, “ No guiere V . entrar en esta su casa , y decansar un ratito ?” You beg him to come into his , not your house, for thus you offer it to him. This offering obtains throughout. If a Spaniard admire anything belonging to another, his friend instantly places it at his disposal, esta muy a la disposicion de V. The proper reply is a bow, and some sort of speech like this : Gracias , esta muy bien empleado , or Gracias , no puede mejorarse de dueno. (“ Thanks, it is already in excellent hands ; it cannot better its master by any change.”) In like manner, and espe- cially when outside cities, if any Spaniards pass by when you are lunch- ing, picnicking, or eating, never fail to invite them to share your meal, by saying, Gustan ustedes comer ? (“Will your graces be pleased to dine l ”) To omit this invitation is a flagrant breach of the laws of hospitality ; nor is it always a mere compliment on their part, for every class of Spaniard is flattered if you will partake of their fare. However, it is safer to decline with the set speech, Muchas gracias, buen provecho le haga a ustedes. Never at all events, in this or on other occasions, omit these titular compliments. In towns there is scarcely any dinner society, and luckily ; nor is such an invitation the usual compliment paid to a stranger, as with us. Spaniards, however, although they seldom bid a foreigner, will accept his bidding. It is necesary, however, to “ press them greatly for the correct national custom is to decline. Remember also to apply a gentle violence to your guest, to induce him to eat, and if you are dining with him, let your stomach stretch a point ; for unless you over- eat yourself, he will fancy that you do not like his fare. It is the custom in cafes for one to pay for all his acquaintance who may be seated at his table : he who asks his friends what they will take must discharge the account afterwards. Again, if you see friends of yours refreshing themselves in caf6 or public promenade, pretty ladies, for instance, with whom you wish to stand well, you may privately tell the waiter that you will be answerable for their account. It is very easy afterwards, § 1 7 . — Hints on Conduct — Travelling Companions. [ 41 ] when you meet with your fair friends, to let them infer who was their unknown benefactor. It was sometimes rather dangerous to accompany an extravagant Andaluza out shopping, d las tiendas , as a well-bred man of the old Spanish school was bound never to allow her to pay for anything. This custom, however, has got somewhat obsolete. All Spaniards are prodigal to each other in cheap names and titles of honour ; thus even beggars address each other as Senor y Caballero , Lord and Knight. The most coveted style is Excellencia , your Excel- lency, or, as it is pronounced, Vuesencia : it only belongs to grandees and men in highest office. The next is Vuestra Senoria , your Lordship, of which the abbreviated form is Usia ; this belongs to titulos de Cas- tilla , to men who are titled, but not Grandees. It is, however, very seldom used, except by the lower classes, who, when they want to toady an Englishman, will often say, For vida del demonio mas sabe Usia que nosotros — “ By the devil’s life, your Lordship knows more than we do ; ” which, if a traveller has this Handbook, is very likely to be the fact, as the natives generally know nothing. The common form of You is Usted ; vuestra merced, your grace. It is generally written simply V., or in older books V md * If you do not know a Spaniard’s Christian name, it is well-bred to insert the de, the German Yon. Thus Senor de Munoz is the appellation of a gentleman ; Senor Munoz that of a nobody. When the Christian name is used with the title Don (Dominus, Lord), this Don becomes exactly equivalent to our knightly Sir, and never must be prefixed to the patronymic by itself. Thus you must say Don Hernando Munoz, and not Don Munoz, which sounds as ridicu- lous and ignorant to Spanish ears as Sir Peel or Sir Murchison would to ours. Whilst discussing Spanish names we would call especial attention to the Spanish custom of affixing to the patronymic the maiden name of the mother, coupling the two with a “y ” Take, for example, a man of the name of J uan Garcia y Kubio : his son by a lady of the name of Blanco (if baptized in the Christian name of the father) would become Juan Garcia y Blanco , whilst his son by a lady of the name of Gonzales would become Juan Garcia y Gonzales. In addressing a man in con- versation it is usual to say, “Don Juan Garcia,” dropping the mother’s patronymic, but when writing his name his full paternal and maternal name must be given. Spaniards, when intimate, generally call each other by their Christian names, and a stranger may live among them and be known to all the town as “Don Bicardo,” without half-a-dozen persons in it being aware of his family name. The custom of tutear — the endearing tutoyer , unusual in England except among Quakers, although common in Germany and France — is very prevalent among familiar friends, and is habitual among grandees, who consider each other as primos , cousins. The forms of letter-writing differ also from ours. The correct place of dating from should be de esta su casa , from this your house, wherever it is ; you must not say from this my house, as you mean to place it at the disposition of your correspondent ; the formal Sir is Muy Senor mio ; My dear Sir, is Muy Senor mio y de todo mi aprecio ; My dear [42] § 18. — The Spanish School of Tainting . Friend, is Mi apreciahle amigo: a step more in intimacy is querido amigo and querido Don Juan . All letters conclude after something in this fashion — quedando en el interin S. S, S. [su seguro servidor ] Q. S. M. B. \_que su mano besa ]. This represents our “ your most obedient and humble servant a more friendly form is, <£ Mande Vmd. con toda franqueza d este S. S. S. y amigo a fa 0 - Q. S. M. BP When a lady is in the case, P. [ pies ] is substituted for M. [ mano ], as the gentleman kisses her feet. Ladies sign su servidora y amiga ; clergymen, sit S. S. y capellan ; military men seldom omit their rank. Letters are generally directed thus : — A1 Senor, Don Fulano Apodo, Madrid. Most Spaniards append to their signature a Bubrica , which is a sort of intricate flourish, like a Runic knot or an Oriental sign-manual. The sovereign often only rubricates: then her majesty makes her mark, and does not sign her name. The traveller is advised at least to visit and observe the objects pointed out in the following pages, and never to be deterred by any Spaniard’s opinion that they are “ not worth seeing.” He should not, however, neglect looking at what the natives consider to be worth a foreigner’s attention. As a sight-seeing rule in towns, make out a list of the lions you wish to see, and let your lacquey de place arrange the order of the course, according to localities, proper hours, and getting proper permissions. As a general habit, ascend towers in towns to un- derstand topography ; visit the Plaza and chief markets to notice local fishes, fowls, fruits, and costumes — these are busy sites and scenes in the Peninsula ; for as Spaniards live from hand to mouth, everybody goes there every day to buy their daily bread, &c., and then, as else- where, be more careful of keeping your good temper than sixpences: never measure Spanish things by an English standard, nor seek for motes in bright eyes. Scout all imaginary dismals, dangers, and diffi- culties, which become as nothing when manfully met, and especially when on the road and in the Fonda. View Spain and her inhabit- ants en couleur de rose, and it will go hard if some of that agreeable tint be not reflected on such a judicious observer, for, like a mirror, the Spaniard returns your smile or frown, your courtesy or contumely; nor is it of any use going to Rome if you quarrel with the Pope. Strain a point or two therefore, to “ make things pleasant.” § 18 . — The Spanish School of Painting. The following sketch of the Spanish school of painting may be useful to the traveller when visiting the galleries and churches of the Peninsula. The earliest paintings which he is likely to find in Spain are by feeble imitators of the Italian and Flemish masters of the end of the 14th century and of the 15th. They are principally in the cathedrals and churches of Toledo, Cordova, Seville, Avila, Burgos, and other large towns. § 18 . — The Spanish School of Painting. [ 43 ] A few have recently been added to the Museum of Madrid, where, how- ever, Spanish art is historically but ill represented. They are, for the most part, of no great interest, and have little of the charming simplicity and tenderness of the works of the contemporary Italian masters ; nor do they show the power of expression and of rendering details that distinguishes the early Flemish painters. In colour they are sombre and monotonous — a quality which characterises the whole Spanish school. Stamina (b. 1354) and Dello Delli (b. 1404), Florentine masters of reputation, settled in Spain; John Van Eyck and other Flemish painters also visited the Peninsula. It is not impossible that the frescoes which may still be seen in the chapel of Archbishop Tenorio, opening into the cloisters of the Cathedral of Toledo, may be by Stamina. They were evidently painted by one who followed the traditions of the school of Giotto. The curious paintings on leather in the ceiling of the “ Sala de Justicia,” in the Alhambra, are also attributed to an Italian artist of the 14th century. Amongst the earliest known Spanish painters who formed their style upon the combined Italian and Flemish influence, were, in the 15th century: Sanchez de Castro of Seville, whose works have, for the most part, perished ; Pedro Berruguete , a painter of some reputation, to whom are attributed a series of pictures in the Madrid Gallery of the Life of S. Domenic Guzman ; Santos Cruz , his associate, to whom are also assigned some panels in the same collection ; Bincon , born, it is said, in 1446, who, like Giotto in Italy, has the credit in Spain of being the author of all old pictures by un- known hands ; his son Fernando Bincon ; Fernando Gallegos , born at Sala- manca, who, according to Cean Bermudez, studied under Albert Dilrer, and whose principal works are in the cathedral of his native city (Ford terms him the Yan Eyck of the Peninsula) ; Juan de Borgogna , who, as his name indicates, may have been born out of Spain. He appears to have learnt his art in Italy, probably in the Venetian school. His principal work is the History of the Virgin, in fresco, on the walls of the chapter- house of the Cathedral of Toledo, which is not without considerable merit. He also painted at Avila and in other towns. Alonso Berruguete , the son of Pedro, born 1480, went to Florence, and placed himself under Michael Angelo, whom he accompanied to Home in 1504 — studying under him painting, sculpture, and architecture. He returned to Spain in 1520, and made a revolution in Spanish art by in- troducing a broader and grander mode of treatment in imitation of his great master. Charles V. appointed him “ pintor y escultor de camara.” Of his works in painting none are known, but of his sculpture in marble, stone and wood, especially for architectural decoration, many fine examples exist in the Peninsula. He had many pupils and imitators, whose inferior works are usually attributed by ignorant guides to Berruguete. The celebrated Antonio or Antony Moro came to Spain in 1552, as painter to the Emperor Charles V. and Philip II. He founded the Spanish school of portrait painting. The Madrid Gallery contains some excellent portraits by him, especially that of Queen Mary of England. Many of those he painted of the royal family of Spain and of European princes which were in the Pardo were burnt with that palace. His most dis- tinguished Spanish pupil was Alonso Sanchez Coello (died 1590), whose portraits of Philip II. and III., of various members of the House of Austria, and of Spanish knights and ladies, preserved in the Madrid Gallery and in [ 44 ] § 18 . — The Spanish School of Painting* private collections, prove him to have been a painter of no ordinary merit. He was especially skilful in representing the rich costumes of his day, but he lacks the delicate touch, and the power of giving natural expression to his portraits, of his master. His drawing is generally hard and “dry.” Juan Pantoja de la Cruz (b. in Madrid, 1551 ; d. about 1609) was Sanchez Coello’s best pupil. He was employed by Philip 1 1. and Philip III. and their courts, and painted the latter king on horseback for the fine bronze statue commenced in Italy by Giovanni da Bologna, and finished by Tacca, now in the Plaza Mayor, at Madrid. The pictures by him of religious subjects in the Madrid Gallery are of inferior merit, but his portraits in the same collection prove him to have been a skilful painter. A more truly Spanish painter than any of the former was Luis de Morales , called 16 El Divino Morales “ more from his painting subjects of divinity than from any divinity of painting.” He was born at Badajoz early in the 16th century. His works have obtained a reputation which they do not deserve. His drawing is so defective in its conventional stiffness, and in expression he is so grotesquely unnatural and exaggerated, that it is scarcely to be believed that he lived nearly a century later than the great Umbrian painters. His colour is ashy and disagreeable in tone ; the subjects of liis pictures are generally the Agony of Christ, and the Sorrows of the Virgin ; and he has a certain vulgar power of rendering intense physical suffering and strong emotions, which make them popular in Spain. Spanish writers on art, indeed, do not hesitate to rank his works with those of Michael Angelo and Leonardo da Vinci. The most that can be said for them is that they show a certain individuality, which has been coarsely imitated by others whose works pass for those of the master. In the Madrid Gallery are some characteristic pictures by Morales, such as the ‘Presentation of the Infant Christ in the Temple’ (IS’o. 849). Another Spanish painter, who, like Morales, enjoys, both in Spain and elsewhere, a higher reputation than he deserves, is Vicente Juan Macip , usually known as Juan de Juanes . He was bom about 1523, in the province of Valencia, and studied in Italy, copying the works of Baphael and his school. The Spaniards boastfully call him the “ Spanish Raphael.” His best pictures are at Valencia ; but the Madrid Gallery possesses some characteristic examples — such as the series representing the martyrdom of St. Stephen. His portraits are sometimes excellent. He was a brilliant colourist, and was successful in representing costume and drapery ; but in drawing, grace of composition and harmony of tone, in fact in all the highest qualities of his art, he was far behind the great Italian painters who preceded him by half a century, and whom he but feebly imitated. Yet his heads of Christ have been compared by some critics with those of Leonardo da Vinci ! He died in 1579. In the 16th and beginning of the 17th centuries many Italian painters, encouraged by the liberal patronage of the Spanish kings of the House of Austria, came to Spain. They were employed in decorating the halls of the Escorial, and of other royal palaces, and in painting for churches and convents. Pedro Campana , although a Fleming by birth (he was born in Brussels in 1503), had studied in Italy, and had formed his style upon the Italian masters. He settled in Spain and painted, in 1548, the cele- brated picture of ‘ The Descent from the Cross,’ now in the Cathedral of Seville, which was so much admired by Murillo that, by his desire, he § 18 . — The Spanish School of Painting. [ 45 ] was buried in front of it. Vicente Carducci or Carducho (born at Florence, 1585 ; died in Madrid, 1638) was brought to Spain by his brother Bar- tolomeo. According to Cean Bermudez, he exercised great influence on Spanish painting by his works, and by the ‘Dialogues on Art’ which he published. His principal pictures, now in the Ministry of the Fomento (Public Works) at Madrid, representing the Life of S. Bruno, were painted for the monks of the Cartuja del Paular. They are in the broad and some- what academical manner of the Italian eclectic schools of his time. Eugenio Caxes (b. 1577 ; d. 1642) was the son of a Florentine painter established in Spain. He was also employed in decorating the palaces of Philip 111. One of his principal works is ‘ The Landing of the English at Cadiz under Lord Wimbledon,’ in the Madrid Gallery. The portraits in this picture are not ill painted, but the composition is clumsy and the colouring feeble. These, and other Italian painters, such as Antonio Rizzi, Pellegrino Pellegrini, Nardi, and Zuccaro, and Spaniards who had studied in Italy, such as Navarrete, Ribalta, and especially Ribera, may be said to have founded that school which is generally known as the “Spanish,” and which includes the great names of Velasquez and Murillo. Juan Fer- nandez Navarrete , called “ El Mudof or “ the Dumb,” from his infirmity (b. at Logrono, 1526 ; d. 1579), studied in Italy, and principally at Venice, where he formed his style which earned for him the title of “ the Spanish Titian.” His works, which are distinguished by a free and broad treatment, especially in the draperies, are for the most part in the Escorial. Two pic- tures in the Madrid Gallery, attributed to Sebastian del Piombo, are believed to be copies or imitations by El Mudo. Francisco de Ribalta (d. 1628) went young to Italy, where he studied the works of Raphael, Sebastian del Piombo, and their great cotemporaries so successfully that he is said to have been able to pass off, even in Rome, his pictures for originals by those masters. His manner and colour were Italian, modified by Spanish influence. One characteristic example of Ribalta is in the Madrid Gallery, 4 An Angel appearing to St. Francis of Assisi’ (No. 947); but his principal works are to be seen at Valencia. His son and scholar, Juan de Ribalta , died young in the same year as his father, whose manner he so closely imitated that his works frequently pass for those of Francisco Ribalta. Jose Ribera , although a Spaniard by birth and by character, may be considered rather as an Italian than a Spanish painter. He was born in the province of Valencia in 1588, and was placed as a boy under Francisco Ribalta. He went young to Italy, where he became a follower and imitator of Caravaggio and other painters of the Naturalistic school, who were then in fashion. Settling in Naples, he soon became celebrated as the “ Spagnoletto,” or little Spaniard. He painted a multitude of pictures, chiefly religious, of a gloomy and generally horrible character, such as martyrdoms, tortures, and executions. Some fifty specimens of his works may be studied in the Madrid Gallery, and there is scarcely a collection in Europe without them. The reputation which he had acquired in Naples soon extended to Spain, where his pictures were eagerly bought. No painter had so gr&at an influence in forming the Spanish school, of which Velasquez and Murillo are at the head, as Ribera, although he himself never returned to his native country. He died at Naples in 1656, after having acquired great wealth, and many enemies, on account of his imperious, jealous, and vin- § 18 . — The Spanish School of Fainting. [ 46 ] dictive disposition. A good example of Lis softer manner is the 4 Jacob’s Dream,’ and of Lis savage manner tLe 4 Martyrdom of S. Bartholomew,’ both in tbe Madrid Gallery. Two other Spanish painters may be mentioned who were close imitators of the Italian masters, Pedro Or rente and Francisco Collantes. TLe former (d. m Toledo 1644), called the “ Spanish Bassano,” introduced cattle and sheep into religious subjects after the manner of that master, whom he rivalled, if he did not excel, in richness of colour. One of his best works is the 4 Martyrdom of Santa Leocadia,’ in the sacristy of the Cathedral of Toledo. The Madrid Gallery contains one or two of his pictures in imita- tion of Jacopo Bassano. Collantes (b. 1599 ; d. 1656), a scholar of Vicente Carducci, was dry, cold, and academical in his drawing and colour. His best picture is the 4 Vision of Ezekiel’ in the Madrid Gallery (No. 705) — a repulsive subject cleverly treated. He was principally known by the landscapes he painted for the Buen Pietiro Palace, which perished by fire. A painter, not a Spaniard, but who lived and worked in Spain, must not be omitted, more on account of the false reputation he has acquired than for his merits — Domenico Theotocopuli , called 41 El Greco f from the country of his birth. He died at Toledo in 1625, and is classed by Spanish writers on art amongst Spanish painters. He studied, in Italy, the Venetian masters, especially Tintoretto, whom he at times imitated, not without some success, especially in his portraits. In Spain he fell into a disagreeable, monotonous tone of colouring of an ashy grey, which, with execrable drawing, render the greater number of his pictures singularly disagreeable, if not absolutely repulsive. Some in the Madrid Gallery are almost ^caricatures. His best work is, per- haps, the 4 Burial of the Count of Orgaz,’ in the church of Santo Tome at Toledo. The Spanish school, as it has been shown, was not, in the true sense of the term, an original school. It was essentially Italian, modified by national disposition and local circumstances. The narrow bigotry of the people and of their rulers, the terrors of the Inquisition, and the influence of the priest, gave to it that sombre, religious, and naturalistic character, which distinguishes the works of almost every Spanish painter of the 17th and 18th centuries. Accomplished gentlemen and scholars, such as Ford and Stirling, and some French writers on art, obtained for the Spanish masters an exaggerated and fictitious reputation, which their works, now better known, have failed to sustain. The attempt to divide them into four schools — those of Seville, Madrid, Valencia, and Castile — has now been abandoned even by Spanish art-critics.* The traveller who takes the trouble to look into the question, and to visit the galleries which have been formed in Granada, Valladolid, Valencia, and other cities, will probably agree with them. The Spanish school, properly so called, had but a short existence in the 17th century, and only produced two really great painters — Velasquez and Murillo — and they do not rank with the greatest Italian masters. They hold a second place in art. Their cotemporaries, Zurbaran, del Mazo, Alonso Cano, Herrera, Roelas, and some others, were unquestionably men of ability, but far inferior to Velasquez and Murillo, See preface to the * Catalogue of the Madrid Gallery/ by Don Pedro de Madrazo. § 1 8.— The Spanish School of Painting. [ 47 ] and to the Italian masters even of the third class. However, this is a question upon which a traveller may form his own judgment without fear of offending any generally accepted canons of criticism. The Spanish school is neither well nor fully represented in any public or private collection in Spain. The Museum 'of the Prado, at Madrid, is, however, exceedingly rich in the works of Velasquez and Murillo, although deficient in those of other Spanish painters. The public gallery of Seville contains some excellent Murillos, and good examples of Zur- baran and Roelas. In cathedrals and churches, especially those of Seville, the traveller will find interesting and important pictures by the principal masters, both of the early and later times ; but they are generally ill seen. They are frequently placed in “ Retablos,” or vast altar-pieces of carved and gilded wood, which are peculiar to Spain. The public collections in the provincial cities and towns are, for the most part, beneath notice. No important private gallery, accessible to the traveller, now exists in the Peninsula. In that of the Duke of Pastrana, at Madrid, are some fine works by Rubens and Vandyke, inherited from the last Duke of Infantado. Portraits by good Spanish painters, even, it is said, by Velasquez, are still in the possession of grandee families. But the French marauder and the foreign picture-dealer have swept the Peninsula pretty clean of its works of art. Out-of-the-way towns and villages which may still possess in- teresting pictures are indicated in the Handbook. Don Diego Velasquez de Silva , or simply Velasquez , the greatest painter that Spain has produced, was born at Seville, in 1599, of parents of Portuguese origin, and died at Madrid in 1660. He married in his youth the daughter of Francisco Pacheco , a painter of inferior merit, but a learned writer on art, from whose advice and instruction he derived much advantage. V elasquez showed from his childhood a genius for painting. He began by copying carefully from nature, still life, and living models, forming himself upon the study of pictures by Ribera and by Italian masters of the Naturalistic school, which had been brought from Italy to Spain. The best examples of his first manner are ‘ The Adoration of the Kings ’ and his famous 4 Borrachos,’ or drunkards, in the Madrid Gallery. In them the influence of Caravaggio and Ribera is very evident. In the twenty-third year of his age he came to Madrid, and, attracting the notice of influential persons, was soon taken into the service of Philip IV. — an enthusiastic lover of art, and himself a painter. He remained there for the rest of his life, and his pictures were almost exclusively painted for his royal patron and for the grandees of the Spanish court. A friend- ship with Rubens, who was in Madrid as ambassador from the King of England, in 1628, and two visits to Italy, in 1629 and 1648, led him to modify his early manner. From the study at Venice of the master- pieces of Titian and Tintoret, he acquired a greater harmony and trans- parency of colour, and a freer and firmer touch, without departing from that truthful representation of nature which he always sought to attain. On his second visit to Italy he chiefly studied in Rome. He again changed his style : his colouring became more what the Italians term “ sfumato,” or hazy ; and he returned, to some extent, to his early general soberness of tone, rarely introducing bright colours into his last pictures. Velasquez’s second and third manners, as well as his first, are fully represented in the Madrid Gallery, which contains no less than 60 of his [ 48 ] § 18 . — The Spanish School of Painting . pictures, or almost the whole of his genuine works. The 4 Borrachos 5 have already been mentioned as an example of his first manner. The fine portrait of the Infante Don Carlos, second son of Philip III. (No. 1073), is another. In his second manner are the 4 Surrender of Breda ’ (No. 1060), perhaps the finest representation and treatment of a cotemporary historical event in the world ; the magnificent portrait of the Count of Benavente (No. 1090), and the four Dwarfs. In his third, the 4 Meninas ’ (No. 1062), and the ‘Hilanderas 5 (No. 1061). By studying these pictures the traveller will soon be able to distinguish between the three manners of the painter, and to decide for himself as to the genuineness of the many pictures which pass for Velasquez’s in the public and private galleries of Europe. It was principally as a portrait-painter that Velasquez excelled. Although he wanted the imagination of Titian, and gave less dignity and refinement than that great master to his portraits, yet in a marvellous power of rendering nature, and in truthfulness of expression, he was not his inferior. In the imaginative faculties he was singularly deficient, as his 4 Forge of Vulcan,’ the 4 Coronation of the Virgin,’ and other works of that class in the Madrid Gallery, are sufficient to prove. However, the 4 Cru- cifixion, 5 in the same collection, is a grand and solemn conception, which has excited the enthusiastic admiration of some critics. Velasquez was essentially a “naturalistic” painter. In the representation of animals, especially dogs, and of details such as armour, drapery, and objects of still- life, he is almost without a rival. His freedom of touch and power of producing truthful effects by the simplest means are truly wonderful. His aerial perspective, his light and shade, his gradations of tone and colour, are all equally excellent- and have excited the admiration of Wilkie, and of the best judges of art. The high offices which Velasquez held at Court gave him but little time to paint. The number of his pictures is, therefore, comparatively small. They were principally executed for the royal palaces ; those which have escaped the fires that destroyed so many great works have been removed to the Madrid Museum. The portraits which are attri- buted to him in many public and private collections out of Spain are, for the most part, by his pupils, or imitators, and copyists. One of the most skilful of the latter was a certain Lucas, who, not many years ago, succeeded in deceiving many collectors. Amongst his best scholars were : Juan Bautista del Mazo (d. 1667), his son-in-law. How nearly he ap- proached his master may be seen by his admirable portrait of D. Tiburcio de Bedin, and the view of Zaragoza, in which the figures have even been attributed to Velasquez, in the Madrid Gallery (Nos. 789 and 788). Pareja , his half-caste slave, and afterwards freedman (d. 1670), who imitated his master in his portraits, but not in his religious and other subjects, in which he followed the Dutch and Italian painters of the time ; as in his 4 Calling of St. Mark, 5 in the same Gallery. Carreno, a member of a noble family (b. 1614 ; d. 1685), who succeeded Velasquez as court painter, and who is chiefly known by his portraits of the idiot King (Charles II.), his mother, Mariana of Austria, Don John of Austria (not the hero of Lepanto), and other royal and courtly persons of the period . Spanish writers on art rank him with Vandyke, to whom, however, he was greatly inferior. His colouring is generally insipid, and wanting in vigour. § 18.— The Spanish School of Fainting. [*49 J Bartolome Esteban Murillo was bom at Seville in 1616. He studied under Juan del Castillo, a very indifferent painter, but formed his style, like Velasquez, on the works of Eibera and the Italian naturalistic painters. Like that great master, too, he modified his “ manner ” three times, as lie gained in experience and knowledge. From his boyhood he painted pictures which were sold in the market-place of his native city, and bought by dealers ; chiefly, it is said, for exportation to the Spanish colonies in America. After obtaining a considerable reputation at Seville, he went to Madrid to improve himself by the study of the works of the great Italian masters in the Loyal Collection. Their influence led him to modify his first style, called by the Spaniards “ seco,” or dry, in which he had imitated the brown tints, dark shadows, and conventional treatment of drapery of Eibera ; but he did not abandon it altogether. It may still be traced in his second, or “calido” (warm) manner, as in the celebrated 4 Holy Family,’ called ‘del Pajarito’ (No. 854), in the Madrid Gallery. The advice of Velasquez, who treated him with great kindness, and the works of Titian and Eubens, led him to adopt a warm, harmonious, and transparent colouring, and a more truthful rendering of nature; at the same time his drawing became more free, if not more correct. His third manner is termed by the Spaniards “ vaporoso ” (misty), from a gradual and almost imperceptible fusion of tints, producing a kind of hazy effect. In it are painted, for the most part, his well-known ‘ Miraculous Conceptions/ the Virgin standing on the crescent moon attended by angels. The three manners of Murillo are neither so well defined nor so easily recognised as those of Velasquez. He never completely abandoned one of them for the other, and in his last pictures he frequently returned to his “calido” style. As a portrait-painter he was inferior to Velasquez, although he excelled even in this branch of his art. He was also inferior to his great contemporary in his landscapes, which are conventional, and wanting in a true feeling for nature. It was in religious subjects, and especially in his Holy Families, that he surpassed him. His Virgins are taken from the common type of Andalusian beauty, slightly idealised ; but he gives to them an expression of youthful innocence and religious sentiment, which makes him the most popular of Spanish painters. The Spaniards are naturally proud of him. They believe that he unites the best qualities of the greatest masters, and surpasses them all. By less partial critics he is, however, placed second to Velasquez, who unquestionably possessed a more original genius. Eeturning to Seville, after liis first and only visit to Madrid, Murillo established himself there for the rest of his life, painting, with the help of scholars, many pictures for churches and convents in Spain and her colonies. In the Peninsula, his best works are now only found at Madrid and in his native city. The French invaders and the picture-dealers carried the greater number away. Amongst those most worthy of note at Madrid are the ‘ St. Elizabeth of Hungary tending the Sick/ and the ‘Patrician’s Dream/ nowin the Academy of S. Fernando, and the two ‘ Immaculate Conceptions ’ in the Gallery : at Seville, ‘ St. Thomas of Villanueva distributing Alms to the Poor/ in the public Museum ; the ‘ St. Anthony of Padua ’ in the Cathedral ; and the pictures in the Caridad. Of his well-known sun-burnt beggar-boys and girls there are none, that we know of, in Spain ; many of those in European collections are probably by [Spain. — 1882.] e [ 50 ] § 18 . — The Spanish School of Painting, liis favourite pupil, Villavicencio , in whose arms he died at Seville in 1682. There is a picture by this painter, who was of a noble family, and rather an amateur than an artist, in the Madrid Gallery, representing a group of boys at play. It has no great merit, but shows how he attempted to imitate his master in this class of subject. He was born in 1635, and died in 1700. The imitations and copies of Murillo by Tobar (d. 1758) are so successful that they frequently pass for originals. The same may be said of some by Meneses , who died early in the 18th century. Amongst the contemporaries of Murillo was Iriarte (b. 1620 ; d. 1685), one of the few landscape-painters that Spain has produced. His land- scapes were much esteemed by Murillo, but they are not entitled to rank with the works of any of the great masters in this branch of the art. The Madrid Gallery contains five examples of them. The following painters may be mentioned amongst the best and most characteristic of the second class in the Spanish school: — Francisco de Zurbaran, born in Estremadura in 1598, died, at Madrid, 1662, was essen- tially a religious painter, and his sombre colouring, and the subjects of his pictures, are characteristic of Spanish bigotry and of the Inquisition. In Spain he is chiefly known by his altar-pieces for churches and convents ; out of Spain by his monks and friars. A few figures of female saints prove that he was not insensible to grace of form and beauty of colour. But 'he is usually mannered, and without dignity. A disagreeable reddish hue pervades his larger pictures. He formed himself, like his cotemporaries, on the study of the Italian painters of the Naturalistic school. Philip IY. is said to have named him 44 Painter of the King, and King of Painters.” He enjoyed the first title, but did not merit the second. His best work in Spain is, perhaps, the 4 Apotheosis of S. Thomas Aquinas,’ which is considered his masterpiece, in the Seville Museum. It is a grand, but somewhat stiff and unpleasing composition. Zurbaran is badly represented in the Madrid Gallery. The 4 Christ Sleeping on the Cross ’ (No. 1133) is the most popular in it. One or two of his works are to be found in the Academy of San Fernando. Alonso Cano (born at Granada, 1601 ; died there, 1667) enjoys the highest reputation in Spain after Zurbaran. He was painter, sculptor, and architect, and, moreover, carved and painted wooden figures of the Yirgin and Saints, an art in which he attained great success and renown. Many examples of his skill may be seen at Granada. One of the most celebrated is the statuette of St. Francis in the sacristy of the Cathedral of Toledo. Cano was a violent, but not unkindly man, constantly engaged in quarrels and law-suits. He ended by becoming a canon of the Cathedral of Granada, after narrowly escaping from the clutches of the Inquisition. His drawing is carefully studied, but is frequently exaggerated, and wants ease and flow ; his colouring conventional and somewhat weak ; but there is a delicacy of expression and refinement in his works which have earned him the praise of some critics. The Madrid Gallery contains a few of his pictures : amongst them a Dead Christ (No. 672) ; but he is best seen at Granada. Francisco Herrera el Viejo , or the elder (b. 157 6 ; d. 1656). His principal works are at Seville and out of Spain. The Madrid Gallery contains nothing by him. Spanish writers on art attribute to him the introduction into Spain of a new style of painting, characteristic of the national genius. § 18 . — The Spanish School of Painting. [ 51 ] It was vigorous, but coarse, and has little to recommend it even to those who admire the Italian eclectic school. Like Cano, he was a man of hot temper, quarrelled with his pupils, amongst whom was Velasquez, and was thrown into prison on a charge of coining false money. He was released by Philip IV. on account of his merits as a painter. His best work in Spain is the 4 Last Judgment,’ in the church of St. Bernardo at Seville, which is praised for its composition and the correct anatomy of the human form. Herrera painted in fresco, for which he was well fitted from his bold and rapid execution ; but his works in that material have, for the most part, perished. Francisco Herrera el Mozo, or the younger (b. 1622 ; d. 1685), son of the former, studied at Rome, where he was chiefly known for his pictures of dead animals and still life. The Italians nicknamed him “ Lo Spagnuolo degli pesci,” from his clever representations of fish. He was a painter of small merit ; weak and affected in his drawing, colour, and composition. The Madrid Gallery contains but one of his pictures — the 4 Triumph of S. Hermenegildo.’ Like his father, he painted frescoes, some of which are still preserved in the churches of Madrid. He was also an architect, and made the plans for the ‘Virgen del Pilar’ at Zaragoza. Juan de las JRoelcis, commonly known in Spain as “El Clerigo Roelas,” was born at Seville about 1558, and died in 1625. He studied at Venice ; hence the richness and brilliancy of colour in his best works, as in the fine picture of the 4 Martyrdom of St. Andrew,’ in the Museum of Seville. In the churches of that city are some altar-pieces by him worthy of notice. He is scarcely known out of Spain, or, indeed, out of Seville, although he may be ranked amongst the best of the Spanish painters of the second rank. The picture in the Madrid Gallery attributed to him, if genuine, is a very inferior work. Juan de Valdes Leal , born at Cordova in 1630, died at Seville 1691, was a painter of considerable ability, but of a hasty and jealous temper, which he especially displayed towards Murillo, the superiority of whose work he would not acknowledge. His pictures are rare, and are best seen at Seville. The Caridad in that city contains two, representing the Triumph of Heath, which are powerful, but coarse. He was also an engraver of skill. Francisco Eizzi, the son of a Bolognese painter who had settled in Spain, was born at Madrid in 1608, and died there in 1685. He was a rapid and not unskilful painter, and was employed to decorate in fresco, in the Italian fashion, the churches and royal palaces of the capital. His well- known picture in the Madrid Gallery representing the 4 Auto de Fe ’ held in the Plaza Mayor before Charles II. and his Queen, Marie Luisa of Orleans, in 1680, although awkward and formal in composition, is cleverly painted. Claudio Coello (not to be confounded with Sanchez Coello), died 1693, was chiefly employed by the Spanish court in portrait-painting and in decorating the royal palaces for triumphs and festivities. His best known and most important picture, in the sacristy of the Escorial, is the ‘ Santa Forma,’ or 4 Removal of the Miraculous Wafer of Gorcum,’ in which he has introduced portraits of Charles II. and of the officers of his court. It is crowded and unskilful in composition, but has merits which show [ 52 ] § 18 . — The Spanish School of Painting. that he had preserved the best traditions of the Spanish school of painters, of whom he was almost the last. The history of Spanish painting closes with the 17th century. During the 18th there appeared a few feeble painters who imitated, but were even immeasurably behind, the Luca Giordanos, Tiepolos, and other Italians whom the Bourbon kings invited to Madrid to decorate the new royal Palace, and to make designs for the royal manufactory of tapestries. The first who attempted to revive Spanish art was Francisco Goya (born in 1746), a vigorous but eccentric painter and etcher in aqua fortis, not wanting in genius. He studied at Rome, and returning to Spain executed frescoes, with little success, in churches at Madrid and elsewhere. He became “ pintor de camara,” or court painter, to the weak Charles 1Y. and vicious Ferdinand VI L In numerous portraits of these kings and of members of the Spanish Bourbon family he made them, perhaps with de- liberate malice — for in politics he was an ardent liberal — even more hideous than they were. His large picture of Charles IV. and his family in the Madrid Gallery is the best, but by no means an attractive example of his skill, and is in parts, especially in the details of costume, not altogether unworthy of Velasquez, whom he sought to imitate. But his genius was chiefly shown in his etchings, in which in a grotesque, and not always decent way, he lashed the vices and corruption of his country, and vented his hatred against its French invaders. The Spaniards are very proud of Goya. The author of the 4 Guide to the Madrid Gallery 9 discovers in his works a union of the best qualities of Rembrandt, Titian, Paul Veronese, Watteau, and Lancret! He was, no doubt, a powerful and original painter, and his touch is often masterly ; but he was incorrect in his drawing, and his colour is frequently exaggerated and unnatural, although occasionally reminding one of Rembrandt. His designs for the tapestries in the royal palaces are generally weak and ill-drawn: but they are interesting as representations of national manners and costume. Goya died in voluntary exile at Bordeaux in 1828, having left Spain dis- gusted with the political reaction which set in on the restoration of the Bourbons, and with the persecution of the best and most enlightened of his countrymen. His works have of late years been much sought after, especially in France. His etchings, consisting chiefly of political carica- tures (caprichos), scenes in the bull-ring, the horrors of war, &c., are rare. A new edition has recently been published of the 4 Caprichos ’ from the worn-out plates. Goya may be considered the founder of the modem Spanish school of painting, which has produced Fortuny, Madrazo, Palmaroli, and a number of other clever painters who have achieved a European reputation. It is not, however, in Spain, but in the private collections of London, Paris, and New York, that their principal works are to be found. Spaniards have little love or knowledge of art, and the high prices it is now the fashion to pay for Spanish pictures are beyond their means. For the general history of Spanish painting the English traveller may consult Stirling’s * Annals of the Artists of Spain,’ in 3 vols. ; Head’s 4 Handbook of the Spanish School of Painting and Ford’s able and witty criticisms scattered through the original edition of the 4 Handbook for Spain.’ The best Spanish authority on Spanish art is Cean Bermudez ( 4 Diccionario Historico de . los mas ilustres Profesores de las Bellas Artes § 19 .—Architecture in Spain. [53] en Espana’), wlio has been called the Spanish Vasari, and to whom all modern writers on the subject are more or less indebted. Don Pedro Madrazo, in his ‘ Catalogue of the Madrid Gallery ’ (in two volumes), has given valuable and accurate information relating to the principal Spanish masters and their works. § 19. — Architecture in Spain. The history of architecture in Spain is similar to that of France and other countries of Northern Europe, with, however, the essential difference that Moorish art in the Middle Ages attained in Spain as great an import- ance as in the East, and when combined with Christian art, a new style was formed, known by the name of Morisco or Mudejar , which is not met with out of the Spanish Peninsula, and is of great interest. Spanish architecture may be divided, after the prehistoric period, and invasions of the Phoenicians and Carthaginians, in the following manner : — * 1. Koman period, until the invasions of the Goths. 2. Latin Byzantine style, 5th to end of 10th centy. 3. Moorish architecture, 8th to 15th centy. 4. Romanesque style, 11th, 12th, and part of 13th centy. 5. Pointed architecture, 13th, 14th, 15th, and part of 16th centy. 6. Mudejar style, 13th, 14th, 15th, and part of 16th centy. 7. Renaissance or Plateresque style, Grasco-Roman, and Churrigueresque. Prehistoric Monuments. Monuments of this kind are frequently to be met with in the Northern Provinces, Andalucia and Minorca. An important example is the Cueva de Menga (Antequera). It consists of a gallery of stones of enormous size, which was covered with earth forming a tumulus. Dolmens, menhirs, triliths, and oscillating stones may be seen at the plain of Alava (on the road from Vitoria to Pamplona), Arios (Navarre), Sierra de Sejos (Reinosa), Luque (Cordova), &c. The Talyots near Mahon (Minorca) are extremely interesting, and well worth a visit. Consult Fergusson’s 4 Stone Monuments,’ and F. Duro’s article in ‘La Academia,’ 1877, p. 184. These studies have only begun in Spain ; much therefore remains to be investigated on this subject. It is difficult to classify Phoenician or Car- thaginian architecture. The walls of Tarragona, of immense polygonal stones, similar to those of the Etruscan and Greek akropolis, are of the highest interest. Their origin continues to be a matter of doubt. Roman Period. Several of the inscriptions which have come down to us of this period (see ‘Corpus Inscrip.,’ vol. ii., Emil Hiibner) mention different buildings of public utility and adornment which were in course of construction in Spain. The number which still remains is very great, and may be found in almost every province ; many have, however, been sadly mutilated. The finest are undoubtedly the aqueduct at Segovia (it is constructed of huge stones, and is still used for carrying water to the town), the Bridge [54] § 19 . — Architecture in Spain. of Alcantara (Estremadura), with its triumphal arch in the centre and temple at one end, and the walls of Lugo. The localities in which the greater variety of Eoman remains may be met with are : Tarragona, Murviedro (Valencia), Italica (Seville), and Merida. The student will also find much that will interest him at Antequera, Eonda, Leon, Jerez, Malaga, Elche, Cazlona, Clunia, Numancia, Talavera la Vieja, Yecla, &c. The general structure of these monuments and their ornamentation are the same as those of ancient Lome : it is well known the Eomans imposed their art on the countries which came under their dominion. Latin Byzantine Style. Two remarkable specimens exist of the Visigothic period : the church of San Eoman de Hornija (near Toro), 646, and San Juan de Banos (near Venta de Banos), 661. Although these churches have suffered much from later additions, they still retain a great part of their construction and part of the primitive building. A great number of fragments remain in Spain of this period. They must be examined in order to judge this architecture. Some are capitals of columns in the cathedral of Cordova and some churches at Toledo, and different friezes and fragments which have been applied to different uses at Toledo and Merida. The votive crowns found at Guarrazar, now at Cluny (Paris) and armoury of Madrid, give an excellent idea of the ornamentation of the Visigoths. Several examples of architecture remain posterior to the Visigoths, and anterior to the Eomanesque style of the 11th centy. The most important are the churches of Sta. Maria ISTaranco and St. Miguel de Lino, near Oviedo, Sta. Cristina de Lena (Asturias), a very remarkable specimen of Byzantine construction, and the churches of San Pedro and San Pablo, Barcelona. Moorish Style. The invasion of the Arabs in 711 caused their architecture to extend itself in the Peninsula. Its adaptation to churches and other buildings of the Christians created a new style, known as Mudejar. The finest specimen of Oriental architecture in Spain is the mosque at Cordova (9th centy.). Byzantine models were copied there in the same manner as at Jerusalem, Damascus, and Cairo. The small mosque at Toledo (Cristo de la Luz) is of the same period, and part of the church of Santiago de Penal va (Vierzo), the only example which is known of a Christian church built in the Moorish style. During the 11th and 12 th centuries this architecture underwent radical modifications in Spain, in the same manner as in the East, and a new style arose which is very different to the earlier one. No writers on this subject have explained this transformation in the East in a satisfactory manner : it is not easy to study this transition in Spain, for it coincides with the time in which the Spanish Moors were not rich or powerful enough to build large constructions, as they did in the 13th centy., after the kings of Granada had settled there. At this period of their art the forms of capitals, which partook of a Byzantine and classical form, changed. Tiles are used to decorate the walls, which are covered with an ornamentation in relief in stucco, in which are introduced inscriptions in Cufic and African characters ; the ceilings are decorated with inlaid woodwork and § 19 . — Architecture in Spain. [55] stalactical pendentives in stucco. This style ends with the conquest of Granada, 1492. The Alhambra is the most important example of this architecture, and following it the Alcazar of Seville. Owing to the gradual conquests by the Christians of towns belonging to the Mohammedans, several of them continued to be inhabited by Moors, who kept their customs and religion. They were called Moriscos or Mi.de- jares . The chief industries of the country were in their hands, and several churches and other buildings of importance were built by them. They accommodated their architecture to European or Christian necessities, and created a new style ( Mudejar ), a mixture of Christian and Moorish art, which is only to be found in the Spanish Peninsula. The finest specimens are of the 14th centy. The religious constructions of this period are remark- able for their brick-work in towers and apses, and fine wooden ceilings, artesonados. Examples exist at Toledo, Seville, and Granada. The in- teresting synagogues built by Moriscos are at Toledo and Segovia. As specimens of civil architecture, the finest are Casa de Pilatos (Seville), Palace of Mendoza (Guadalajara), Archbishop’s Palace (Alcala), Casa de Mesa (Toledo). This style continued in vogue during the greater part of the 16th centy., although late Gothic was everywhere predominant. A most striking example in which the three styles — Moorish, Flam- boyant, and Renaissance — are combined, is to be found in a chapel of the cathedral of Siguenza. Romanesque Style. This architecture was imported in the 11th and 12th centys. from France, even more directly than in other countries, owing to the immense influence exercised by a large number of prelates and priests, who came from Cluny and Cister, and the French princes and families who settled in Spain. The general features of this architecture are similar to those of France: the differences exist chiefly in the general plan of the churches rather than in their construction and ornamentation. The choirs in Spanish cathedrals are placed in the central nave, a traditional remembrance of the early basilica. In some localities, Segovia, Avila, and Valladolid, some of these churches have external cloisters, an Oriental or Italian modification, which never occurs in France or the north of Europe. Romanesque churches are very numerous in Spain. Some, such as the doorway of the Cathedral of Santiago (Galicia), and the Old Cathedral (Salamanca), are not surpassed by any similar buildings in Europe. Specimens are only found in the northern provinces, as the south was not conquered from the Moors until the 13th centy. Interesting examples exist in Asturias, Galicia, Castile, Aragon, and Cata* luna. The cloisters of Gerona and Tarragona are unrivalled. Pointed Style. The specimens in Spain present no other variety than the choirs in the centres of the cathedrals. Alt-hough this style was imported from France early in the 13th centy., in the same manner as in Germany, Romanesque churches continued to be built, and Pointed architecture was only finally adopted at the end of the centy. The finest cathedrals in Spain of this architecture are those of Toledo, Leon, and Burgos. A great number of civil and religious buildings of this style are to be [56] § 19 . — Architecture in Spain. met with in Spain, in which the art-student will find constant elements of study: it underwent the same modifications in Spain as in other countries, until it reached in the 15th centy., its latest period, the Flamboyant style. This style lasts longer in Spain than in other coun- tries, and acquires great importance. The cathedrals of Salamanca (la nuevct ) and Segovia, both built in late Gothic, were begun in the 16th centy., when in other parts of Europe and even in Spain itself Italian Renaissance models were largely imported. Spanish cathedrals are un- doubtedly, with the exception of Italy, the most interesting in Europe ; for although they cannot compete in architectural details with those of France, they are vastly superior in regard to the objects they contain of ecclesiastical furniture of every kind — iron railings, carved stalls, monstrances, church-plate, vestments, pictures, and sepulchres. The cathe- drals of Toledo and Seville are museums in their way. No traveller interested in Gothic architecture should enter Spain without providing himself with Mr. G. E. Street’s 6 Gothic Architecture of Spain,’ in which the history of it is lucidly explained, with the aid of drawings and plans. Revival, Plateresque, Graeco-Roman, and Churrigueresque Styles. Italian models were copied in Spain from the end of the 15th centy. The portals of Santa Cruz at Valladolid and Toledo are of this period. Gothic architecture continued, however, for several years to alternate with this style. The combination of these styles produced an important series of models known in Spain by the name of Plciteresco. The revival of the fine arts coincided in Spain with the greatest power and richness of the country. The marriage of Ferdinand and Isabel united Castile, Aragon, and the kingdom of Naples. The conquest of Granada completed the political unity of the country : the discoveries of Columbus, Cortes, and Pizarro brought riches from a new world, and the union with the House of Austria, the Flemish States, and immense power, which it enjoyed during the reign of the Emperor Charles V. Renaissance archi- tecture is better represented in Spain than in any other country except Italy. In almost all towns of importance admirable examples of this style will be found. The finest are at Salamanca: the University, S t0 . Domingo, Casa de las Conchas, and Salinas, San Marcos (Leon), Casa de Ayuntamiento (Seville), Valladolid, Zaragoza, Burgos, &c. The Cathedral and Palace of Charles V. (Granada) may be quoted as an example of pure Grseco-Roman style. Part of the Alcazar at Toledo belongs to this same period. The tendency to copy classical models increased daily. The Monastery of the Escorial may be considered the most important specimen of this school. In the 17th centy. the Borrome - nisco style was imported from Italy. The Pantheon at the Escorial is a good example. This architectural decay increased in Spain with great rapidity, and in no country did it reach to such an extravagant point. It lasted during the 17th and part of the 18th centuries. In Spain this style is called Churrigueresque, after the architect Churriguera. Examples will be found everywhere. The Transparente (Cathedral of Toledo), retables of San Esteban (Salamanca), Cartuja (Granada), and fagade of Hospicio (Madrid) may be considered the most remarkable. The creation of the Academy of San Fernando, the French architects § 20 . — Spanish Literature . [ 57 ] who accompanied Philip V., and the efforts of Charles III. to favour clas- sical studies, produced the same pretentious and classical reaction as in the rest of Europe. The Palace and Convent of Salesas (Madrid) are speci- mens of the first movement. The Museo and Observatory of Madrid belong to the end of the last and beginning of the present century.* § 20. — Spanish Literature. The history of Spanish literature commences at the end of the 11th or beginning of the 12th century, when the dialect emerged from ,the corrupted Latin, and became an independent language capable of producing literary works. The origin of the language may be traced to the writers of the 6th, 7th, to the 11th century. They wrote in the more or less barbarous Latin of the period. The most important authors of this time were San Isidoro and his pupils, St. Eugenio, St. Ildefonso, St. Eulogio, Alvaro, Sansom, Pero Alonso, and Oliva. The writers of the Roman period, Porcio Latro, Seneca, Lucan, Martial, Pomponius Mela, Co- lumbia, Silius Italicus, and Quintillian, though born in Spain, must be numbered among classical authors. The Spanish language is derived in a direct manner from the Latin, though it has been enriched by a great number of words belonging to the different nations which have occupied the whole or part of the Peninsula. Iberian, Punic, Greek, Visigothic, Hebrew, and Arabic words are met with in large numbers. The abundance of these last has induced some critics to infer that the origin of the language is Semitic, but its grammatical structure is undoubtedly Latin. The abundance of Oriental words does not influence its organisation, or produce any further result than to add nouns to the language. Spanish literature is generally divided into three groups — 12tli cen- tury to end of 15th ; 16th to 17th ; 18th to the present day. 1st Period: the 12th to end of the 15th Century. It is highly probable that Spanish poetry began by commemorating the heroic deeds of Pelayo and other heroes who fought against the Moors ; but we can trace nothing to that period. The earliest compo- sitions which have reached us are, a Charter of Oviedo , 1145 (the Charter of Aviles, 1155, has been proved to be a forgery), f and two poems on the Cid, the favourite hero of popular Spanish poetry, 1040- * Consult ‘Rude Stone Monuments/ Fergusson, London, 1872. ‘ Estudios sobre la Epoca Celtica en Galicia/ Sarategui y Medina, Ferro 1, 1868. Viilamil y Castro, ‘ Antiguedades pre- histdricas de Galicia,’ Madrid, 1868. ‘La Academia/ 1877. ‘ Monumentos Arquitectonicos de Espana/ published by Government, large fol., Madrid, 1859-77. ‘ Noticias de los Arquitectos de Espana/ 4 vols. 4to., Llaguno y Amirola, Madrid, 1829 (gives a list of Spanish architects). * Recuerdos y Bellezas de Espana/ Parcerisa, gives a vol. for each province. ‘ Espana artfstica y monumental/ Viilamil, Paris, 1846. ‘Gothic Architecture in Spain/ Street, London, 1865. ‘ History of Architecture,’ Fergusson, London, 1867. ‘ Ensayo historico sobre los Diversos Generos de Arquitectura/ Caveda, Madrid, 1848. ‘ Erinnerungen/ von W. Gall, Munich. ‘An Architect’s Note-book in Spain/ Sir M. Digby Wyatt. ‘ Arabian Antiquities/ Murphy, London, 1816. ‘ Plans and Elevations of the Alhambra,’ Owen Jones, large folio, London, 1842. ‘ Essai sur 1’ Architecture des Maures et Arabes/ Girault de Prangey, Paris, 1841. I ide * Ecclesiologist, vol. xiv. 1853 ; ‘ Gentleman’s Magazine/ 1865, &c. j- ‘ Discurso de la Academia Espanola/ 1865, [58] § 20. — Spanish Literature . 1099. The best of these poems is the one beginning : El mio Cid ( vide Ticknor). Though incomplete, it constitutes a real epic poem, and if examined in detail appears to have been written at the beginning of the 12th century.* Three contemporary works have reached us: La Vida de Santa Maria Egipciaca , El Libro de los tres reyes I Orient, and Los tres reyes magos. The first two were evidently written under a French influence ; IjOS tres reyes magos was written for recital in a church. The same intellectual development appears in Spain in the 13th cen- tury as in Italy and France. The universities of Palencia and Salamanca contributed towards it. The tendency of the writers of this period is to imitate classic authors. A priest, Gonzalo de Berceo, is the first poet of any importance in the 13th century, 1230: he wrote a large number of verses on religious subjects. His poem to the Virgin con- tains some poetical passages. Two poems appeared shortly afterwards, El Libro de Apollonio and El Libro de Alexandre , by J. Lorenzo Segura, adapted from the history of Alexandre Le Grand, by Chatillon. The poem Fernan Gonzalez is of the same period : it is free from foreign influence. Prose is improved at the beginning of the century by the translation from Latin of the Fuero Juzgo, and other historical and didactical works. Don Alonso el Sabio, 1221-1284, absorbs the scientific and literary life of Spain during his time : the most eminent of his countrymen, Spaniards, Jews, and Moors, gathered round him. So many works have appeared under his name that it is incredible they should all have been written by him. Probably only the poems, Las QuereTlas , written in the Castilian dialect, are his. An extensive Universal History, the first written in Europe in a vernacular language, the Leyes de Partidas , a series of legal works ; El Saber de Astronomia , a cyclopaedia of this science as it stood at that time ; the Cantigas, a poem containing upwards of 400 compositions to the Virgin, written in the Gallician dialect and in the Provencal style, and several other works, have passed hitherto as proceeding from his pen. Don Sancho el Bravo, a son of Don Alonso, wrote the Lucidario and Libro de los (Jastigos, a moral treatise dedicated to his son. The Libro del Tesoro and La Gran Conquista de Ultramar were translated at his instigation from the Latin. The Infante, Don Juan Manuel, 1282, a nephew of Don Alonso, wrote several works on different subjects. The finest is the interesting collection of fables, El Conde Lucanor . They are earlier than the Decamerone or Canterbury Tales. Spanish poetry revived in the 14th century. The archpriest of Hita, 1330-1343, wrote thousands of verses on different subjects. Rabbi Don Sem Tob, 1350, a Spanish Jew, dedicated to his friend, King Peter the Cruel, his principal poetical works. The best is on the Danza de la Muerte , a favourite subject of that time. Pero Lopez de Ayala, 1372-1407, who wrote the Pimado de Palacio, and Rodrigo Yanez, the author of the Poema de Alonso XI., end the series of poets of the 14th century. Romances of chivalry became popular in Spain in the 15th century : their popularity lasted until the 16th, when Cervantes published his Bon Quijote. Amadis de Gaida was the first work of im- * Vide Mila, * Poesia lieroico popular en Castilla,’ Barcelona, 1872, 20 .—Spanish Literature. [ 59 ] portance of this kind ; Palmerin de Oliva , &c., follow it.* The Coro- nicas belong to this period. They are semi-historical narratives, in which the leading events of each reign are described. Provencal style was introduced into Spain early in the 15th century. It became very popular owing to the patronage of Don Juan II., 1407- 1454. The most important courtiers imitated the king’s example, and poems have reached us by Don Alvaro de Luna, Don Alonso de Car- tagena and others. The Marquis of Villena and Macias belong to this period. Fernan Perez de Guzman wrote at this time his Livros de los claros varones de Espana , and Juan de Mena, an excellent poet, his Laberynto and Dialog o de los siete Pecados mortales . The last poet of the reign of Don Juan II. is the Marquis of Santillana. Several wrote late in the century: the most excellent among them being Jorge Manrique, whose Coplas on the death of his father are admirable. Novels begin at this time, generally copied from Italian models. The finest is La Oelestina , written in acts like a drama, one of the best works in Spanish literature. The compilations of poems ( Cancioneros ) belong to this period. Eomances or ballads are the most original form of Spanish poetry. They constitute the popular epic poem, and are the most spontaneous productions of the Spanish language. They comprehend a great variety of styles. Their simple metrical form of eight-syllable lines of asonant verses became a favourite at once. A large number have reached us on every subject, and they should be read and studied by every tra- veller in Spain. f 16 th and 17 th Centuries. The revival of Literature coincides in Spain with the period of its greatest power and prosperity. The early part of the 16th century is called el iSiglo de oro. An Italian influence is predominant. Castillejo keeps to the earlier style in his charming compositions : Didlogo entre el autor y su pluma , and Sermones de Amoves. Boscan and Garcilaso were the first to introduce the Italian measure into Spanish verse. Some poets wrote in both these styles. Gregorio Sylvestre is among the best of them ; an excellent poet, but very little known. Garcilaso was the earliest lyrical poet, 1503-1536. His verses are pure in style, in the manner of Yirgil and Horace. His life is inter- esting : he fought by the side of Charles V., and was killed at the assault of the fortress of Frejus (Nice). One of his contemporaries, Hurtado de Mendoza, a soldier and statesman, popularised classical studies. His best works are the Piebellion de los Moriscos and the well- known Lazavillo de Tormes. The classical style is now universally adopted in Spain. Fray Luis de Leon was undoubtedly the best poet of this period. His ode on the Ascension and his Poema a la Virgen may certainly be reckoned among the best compositions in the language. Several poets of an inferior order belong to the 16th century. Cesina, Acuna, Figueroa, Medrano, La Torre, Mesa, and Alcazar are among the best. Their works are clever in parts, but are generally unequal. This characteristic becomes a leading feature in Spanish poetry. At * Vide ‘Catalogo de Libros de Caballeria/ P. de Gayangos. t See ‘ Romancero General/ Duran. § 20 . — Spanish Literature . [ 60 ] the end of the 17th century lyrics began to decay, but no author carried affectation and exaggeration to such a height as Gongora, 1561-1627 : a gifted poet, full of charm in his simple compositions (vide translations by Archdeacon Churton), though most obscure in his Soledades and Polifemo . This style was called in Spain culteranismo , and not even the best dramatic authors of the 17th century were free from its defects. The imitators of Gongora continued until the 18th century, although here and there a poet like Kioja tried to check the movement. Epic poetry in Spain is inferior to the dramatic and lyrical styles. The specimens which exist are cold and devoid of inspiration. El Manser rate , by Virues, La Cristiada, by Hojeda, La Vida de San Jose, by Yaldivieso, and El Bernardo , by Balbuena, may be quoted as examples. LjO Araucana , by Ercilla, contains some poetical passages, but in general is hardly more than an historical narrative. LjO Gatomaquia, by Lope de Yega, though a burlesque, is considered by many critics the best epic poem in the Spanish language. Dramatic literature unites, perhaps, the highest conditions of origi- nality and power. Its earliest productions are the liturgical represen- tations of the Middle Ages — Misterios or Autos * Although works of this kind are mentioned as early as the 13th century, the first which have a distinct dramatic character are the Coplas de Mingo Eevulgo and El Dialog o entre el Amor y un viejo. These compositions were written under the reign of Henry IY. At the latter part of the 15th century a series of dramatic works already existed. Juan de la Encina began the history of the Spanish drama. Lucas Fernandez was a con- temporary writer, and shortly afterwards Gil Vicente. Torres Naharro, 1517, published his Propalaclia , which contains eight comedies. Lope de Eueda founded the modern school, and he is imitated and improved by his followers. The drama does not attain its highest importance until Lope de Yega (1562-1635), the most prolific of Spanish poets. He tells us he had written 1500 plays, without counting Autos and Entrerneses. Cervantes says that forty companies of actors existed at this time in Madrid alone, consisting of no less than 1000 actors. In 1636, 300 companies of actors acted in different parts of Spain. Lope de Yega is rather unequal as a dramatic author; but El mejor Alcalde el rey , La Estrella de Sevilla, La dama boba, La moza de cantaro, entitle him to rank among the best European dramatists. Three authors share Lope’s glory, Tirso, Calderon, and Alarcon. No Spanish dramatist has surpassed Tirso in his facility of treating the most varied subjects in admirable versification. His comedy of Don Gil de las colzas verdes is as good as his dramas of El Bey Don Pedro en Madrid, El condenado por desconfiado , or El convidado de piedra . The popular type of Don Juan is taken from this drama. Alarcon is undoubtedly the most philosophical Spanish dramatist. His comedy, Las paredes oyen , is admirable, and LjO verdad sospecliosa, so much admired by Corneille, as he tells us himself, when he took the plot for his Menteur . Calderon is the most popular dramatic author. He idealises more than his predecessors, and his genius embraces the most varied subjects. His comedies are charming ; as examples, Let damct See ' Catalogo del Teatro antiguo E>pafioi,’ La Barrera, i860. § 20. — Spanish Literature . [61] duende and Casa con dos puertas are among the best. El medico de su honra is full of dramatic power, and nothing can be more poetical than La Vida es siteno. ( Vide MacCarthy’s translations.) The best imitators of the great dramatists are Rojas and Moreto : Garcia del Castanar by the former, and Desden con el Desden of the latter, are equal to the dramas of the great masters. The earliest Spanish novels are Lazarillo de Tormes , by Hurtado de Mendoza, and the Diana Enamorada , by Monte Mayor. They are fol- lowed in the 16th century by El Picaro Guzman de Alfarache and El Escudero Marcos de Obregon , by Aleman and Espinel. A great number of novels were written in the following century, but all were eclipsed by Cervantes’ Don Quijote , which is too well known to need any comment. Several authors in the 16th and 17th centuries cultivated different literary styles. Quevedo is the most remarkable of them. He was an excellent theological moralist and fantastical writer in the manner of Dante. He wrote a number of works of real merit, none of which have been so popular as his Satiras in prose and verse. ( Vide Mr. Mew’s, “Quevedo,” in ‘Gentleman’s Magazine,’ Jan. 1878.) Political and moralist writers of the 16th and 17th centuries are very numerous. Of these Guevara, Sta. Teresa, Fray Luis de Granada Gracian (ably commented on by Mr. Grant Duff, ‘Fort. Rev.’ May, 1877), Saavedra Fajardo, Mariana, Morales, Zurita, and Solis are the most remarkable. 18tii and 19th Centuries. The end of the 17th century was the worst period of Spanish litera- ture. Philip V., the first king of the house of Bourbon, 1700, did his utmost to improve the intellectual culture of the country. The Biblio- teca Real was founded in 1711, and the Academias de la Lengua , Historia , and Bellas Artes in 1714 ; several literary reviews also appeared. The best poets of this period are Antonio de Toledo and Gerardo Lobo. The only productions, however, of any literary merit are the critical works of Flores, Masdeu, Mayans and others. During the reign of Charles 111., 1759-1788, Melendez wrote some tolerable verses. He is followed by Fr. Diego Gonzalez, Cienfuegos, Nicolas de Moratin and others. The most original writers of the end of the 18th century are, however, un- doubtedly Leandro Moratin and Ramon. The two comedies, El Si de lets nifias and El Cafe , by the former, are charming, and the Sainetes, by De la Cruz, in the manner of Plautus, continue to be very popular in Spain. Spanish literature of the present century possesses no definite cha- racter, although several writers can bear comparison with the best Spanish authors of other periods. Every school and style has been copied : Byron, Schiller, Goethe, Victor Hugo, and Dumas. The earliest author of any importance is Quintana, a correct and inspired poet. His odes on J^a dmprenta, Panteon del Escorial , and Batalla de Trafalgar are very good. Martinez de la Rosa, Lista, and Nicasio Gallegos form a group of able versifiers. Espronceda is a constant imi- tator of Byron, although his legend of El Estudiante de Salamanca is [62] § 20 . — Spanish Literature . original, and a very fine composition. Zorrilla is the best representative of the romantic school of 1830-1840 : his works are sometimes unequal, and his legends are his best lyrical compositions. His finest dramas are Don Juan Tenorio and El Zapatero y el Bey. The Romances and drama of Don Alvaro de Luna , by the Duke of Rivas, have been very popular ; but no author is so deservingly so as Breton de los Herreres, an excellent writer, who has left behind nearly 100 comedies, some of which, Marcela , Muerete y veras , El pelo de la dehesa , &c., are perfect in their way. Although these authors may be said to belong to the modern school of literature, the traveller may wish to know the names of the best Spanish authors of the day, and the titles of their most jiopular works. The indications given in the three following groups — poets, dramatic authors, and novelists — may be found useful. Poets. — Z orrilla : Legendas ; Cantos del Trovador ; Foema d Granada . Palacios : Poesias . Grillo : Foesias. Aguilera : Cantares. Campoamor : Doloras ; Poemas. Selgas : Obras. Becquer : Obras. Queralt : Rimas . Arnao : Caudillo de los ciento . Dramatic Authors. — H artzenbusch : Los Amantes de Teruel ; La Jura en Sta. Gadea ; Cuentos y Fabulas . Tamayo : La Locura de amor ; La bola de nieve ; Los hombres de bien. Yentura de la Yega : El hombre de mundo. Garcia Gutierrez : El Trovador ; Azon Visconti ; La Criolla . Ayala : El tanto por ciento ; Don Rodrigo Calderon . Sanz : Don Fran- cisco de Quevedo . Rubi : La trenza de sus cabellos ; Bandera negra. Serra : El amor y la Gaceta ; El Loco de la buhardilla . Echegaray : En el Puno de la Espada ; 0 Locura 6 Santidad ; La muerte en los labios ; En el Seno de la muerte. Novelists. — F ernan Caballero (Cecilia Bohl de Faber). All the novelas published by this gifted lady are excellent ; several have been translated into English. La Gaviota , Ldgrimas , and Clemencia are the most popular. Castro y Serrano : Cartas transcendentales ; Estudios contemporaneos ; Novela del Egipto . Yalera: Pepita Jimenez; Dr. Faustino ; El comendador Mendoza ; Articulos literarios. Alarcon : El sombrero de tres picos ; El Escandalo ; Las Alpujarras ; El nino de la Bola. Correa : Rosas y Ferros. Perez Galdos : a series of novels describing Spanish life in the last century, called Episodios naciondles ; Dona Perfecta; Gloria; La Desheredada. Fernandez y Gonzalez, in the manner of Dumas : Martin Gil ; El Cocinero y el Rey. Trueba : Obras en prosa y verso . Amos Escalante : Costas y montanas ; Ave Maris Stella. The best Spanish Literary Reviews are the Revista de Espaiia ; Revista de Espana y America ; Revista contemporanea ; Revista de Obras Publicas ; Revista Europea ; Revista de Archivos, Bibliotecas y Museos ; El Averiguador ; Boletin de la Sociedad Geogrdfica ; Boletin de la Acad, de la Eistoria ; Boletin de la Acad, de Historia Natural y Acad, de San Fernando ; Memorial de Ingenieros ; Gaceta agricola del Ministerio de Fomento ; El siglo medico. Illustrated papers : Cronica de la Industria ; Eustracion Espanola y Americana ; Ilustracid Catalana ; Eustracion Artistica ; L } excursionist a ; Bulleti de VAssociacid d' excursions Catalana. These three last appear at Barcelona. El Campo; Eustracion Vena - toria. Fine Arts in Spain , — Monumentos Arquitectonicos , fol. ; Museo § 21. — Geology . [ 63 ], Bspanol de Aniiyiiedades, fol. Bivadeneyra, Autores Espanoles * and the excellent reprints of rare works, brought out by the Bibliofilos Pspanoles ; Libros de Antano ; Coleccion de libros espafioles raros y curiosos , appear at intervals. § 21. — Geology and Minerals. The student who wishes to have an idea of the geological structure of the Spanish Peninsula must consult the 2nd Edition of 4 Carte Geo- logique de l’Espagne et du Portugal,’ by Messrs. M. de Yerneuil and Collomb, with the ‘Explication sommaire de la carte/ which accom- panies it, and Senor Botella’s 4 Mapa Geologico.’ Amongst the principal modifications which the researches of Spanish and Portuguese geologists have introduced in M. Yerneuil’s map, are to be mentioned the great development of Cambrian strata in the west of Portugal and Estremadura in Spain (see Egozcoue and Mallada, and Bebeiro and Delgado’s works on the subject), and the perhaps too great reduction of what had hitherto been considered as Silurian deposits. The Cambrian formation is traversed by great intrusive masses of granite. The principal rocks found in this formation are a great thickness of slates and mica-schists, which in the province of Caceres appear to attain a thickness of thousands of feet. In this forma- tion are found some very important veins of lead and silver ores, as well as some of the richest deposits of phosphate of lime of Estremadura. The Silurian deposits are constituted at their base by a great thick- ness of greywacke and slates, followed by large masses of quartzite and limestone, on which repose a succession of fossiliferous slates. In the parts of the country already studied these deposits follow generally a (w. 36° N.) direction. Likewise, a great part of the Silurian of the south of Portugal and the province of Huelva in Spain has been seen to belong to the lower Carboniferous or culm of Silesia, the Posydonomia Becheri having been abundantly found. Carboniferous deposits have been signalled by Mallada in the Spanish Pyrenees of the province of Huesca. What is marked as Permian in M. de Verneuirs map in the province of Cuenca, has been questioned, probably with reason, by M. Cortazar in his ‘ Descripcion geologica de la provincia de Cuenca ; ’ whilst Senor Botella, in his map, considers Permian the dolomitic lime- stone of Sierra Nevada. In the secondary formations some alterations have also been made. The Triassic fauna has been greatly enriched, and Sr. Mallada mentions twenty-nine species found in the provinces of Jaen, Albacete, Teruel, Palencia, &c. Probably some of what is represented by M. Yerneuil as Triassic in his map, will be found to belong to other formations ; as the researches of Messrs. MacPherson and Calderon in the provinces of Cadiz and Santander make it likely. Jurassic deposits have also suffered some modifications. The small patch in the west of the province of Santander is also extended. Wealden, and probably Purbeck deposits, have been discovered in the Peninsula by M. Delgado in Portugal, from Setubal to Cape Mondego, and by MM. Linares and * Consult ‘ History of Spanish Literature.’ George Ticknor, Boston, 1864, § 21. — - Fossils . Calderon, in the province of Santander, where a rather rich fresh-water fauna and flora have been found. In the chalk some small alterations must also be effected in the provinces of Castellon, Tarragona, Ternel, and Lerida, thanks to the labours of Messrs. Landerer and Vidal, where some very interesting horizons have been signalled. In tertiary deposits the most important discovery has been a fresh-water Eocene deposit, discovered by Mallada in the province of Huesca. With regard to eruptive rocks, the most important corrections to be effected are a great patch of serpentine rocks in the Serrania de Honda, between this city and the sea, and huge outcrops of Porphyries and Diabase along a broad belt which extends from beyond Beja in Portugal to the banks of the Guadalquivir in the provinces of Cordoba and Jaen. Such are the most important modifications which have been made in VerneuiFs map. The most important localities where Fossils, Bocks, and Minerals will be found in Spain are — Fossils. Palaeozoic. — Silurian fossils of the earliest Fauna are found at Murero (Zaragoza) and at Aleje , Corniero, and Adrados (Leon). Silurian fossils of the 2nd Silurian Fauna in the Solana del Romeral (Almadenejos), Huerta del Llano (Almaden), and Puente de las Orejas (Ciudad Beal). Devonian fossils at Ferrones (Asturias) and Alge and Corniero (Leon). Carboniferous fossils at Langreo , Mieres , and Caldas de Oviedo (As- turias), Orbo (Palencia), and Belmez and E spiel. Mesozoic. — The principal localities where these fossils of the Triassic period may be met with are : Mora de Ebro (Zaragoza), where Ceratites are found ; at Manuel (Valencia) the fossils which appear are converted wholly or partially into chalk ; at Cofientes (Valencia), in sandstone, and at Carlet (Valencia) they are found in very large quantities. Fossils of the Jurassic period are found at the Laguna of Lariego (Asturias) and Becerril del Carpio (Palencia). Fossils of the lower oolitic lias, at San Adrian de Juarros (Burgos). Fossils of the lower oolitic and Oxfordshire lias at Bicla (Tarragona). Fossils of the lower and middle lias at the Sierra de ATbarracin (Teruel) ; of the lower oolitic lias at the Lslas Atalayas de Chisvert (Castellon) ; of the upper J ura, of the Kimmeridge and Portland species at Jaen. Purbeck fossils are to be found at the Valley of Cabuerniga , Santander ; Tithonian at Martos , Jaen and Wealden in Portugal. Cretaceous neocomian fossils exist at Utrillas and Gargallo (Teruel) and Alcala de Chisvert (Castellon), cenomanilan and turonenson at the Sardinero (Santander) and Oviedo ; garnumnensen at the Coll de Fargo (Valle del Segre, Cataluna) and Montulban (Teruel) ; and urgo aptian at Ballesta, Castell de Cabres (Castellon). Tertiary fossils. — Those belonging to the nummulitic species at Santa Cilia , Atares , and Bocamorta (Huesca), Monserrat and Manresa (Cata- luha), La Libreria , between Gijona and Ibi (Alicante), and San Vicente de la Barquera (Santander). Miocene fresh- water fossils are to be met with in a"great number of § 22. — Bull-fights. [65] localities on the table-lands of Castile. Two of the most remarkable are Concua and Libros (Teruel), the first on account of the abundance of fossil bones, and the second because they are fossilified by sulphur. Sea- water miocene at Carolina and Linares (Jaen), Montjuich , Barce- lona , Alicante , and Alcoy , and Ninerola (Valencia). Of the Pliocene deposits specimens exist at Cadiz , Arcos , and San Lucar de Barrameda . Quaternary fossils at San Isidro and other localities near Madrid; Carrion de los Condes (Palencia), Udias (Santander), where bones of Elephas primigenius and Bhinoceros Licorhinus are found, ossified by hydrocarbonate of zinc. § 22. — Bull-fights. The bull-fight, let moralists say what they will, is the sight of Spain, and to see one certainly forms the first object of all the younger portion of travellers from every nation ; and as not to understand after some sort the order of the course, the salient features, and the language of the “ ring,” argues in the eyes of the natives an entire want of liberal education, no Handbook for Spain can be complete without some elementary hints as to “ what to observe ” and what to say in the arena; there the past is linked with the present, and Spanish nationality is revealed, for trans- Pyrenean civilization has not yet invaded this sacred spot. The bull- fight, or, to speak correctly, the Bull-Feast, Fiesta de Toros , is a modern sport, and never mentioned in any authors of antiquity. Bulls were killed in ancient amphitheatres, but the present modus operandi is mo- dern, and, however based on Roman institutions, is indubitably a thing devised by the Moors of Spain , for those in Africa have neither the sport, the ring, nor the recollection. The principle was the exhibition of horsemanship, courage, and dexterity with the lance, for in the early bull-fight the animal was attacked by gentlemen armed only with the Bejon , a short projectile spear about four feet long. This was taken from the original Iberian spear , the Sparus of Sil. Ital. (viii. 523), the Lancea of Livy (xxxiv. 15), and is seen in the hands of the horsemen of the old Romano- Iberian coinage. To be a good rider and lancer was essential to the Spanish Cabcdlero. This original form of bull-fight (now only given on grand occasions) is called a Fiesta real. Such an one Philip IV. exhibited on the Plaza Mayor of Madrid before our Charles I.; Ferdinand VII. in 1833, as the ratification of the Juramento , the swearing allegiance to Isabel II. ; and Alfonso XII., on his marriages, Jan. 23rd, 1878, and November 29, 1879. These Fiestas Beales form the coronation ceremonial of Spain, and the Caballeros en Plaza represent our champions. Bulls were killed, but no beef eaten ; as a banquet was never a thing of Iberia. The final conquest of the Moors, and the subsequent cessation of the border chivalrous habits of Spaniards, and especially the accession of Philip V., proved fatal to this ancient usage of Spain. The spectacle, which had withstood the influence of Isabel the Catholic, and had beaten the Pope’s bulls, bowed before the despotism of fashion, and by becoming the game of professionals instead of that of gentlemen, it was [Spain, 1882.] f § 22. — Bull-fights. [ 66 ] stripped of its chivalrous character, and degenerated into the vulgar butchery of low mercenary bull-fighters, just as did our rings and tour- naments of chivalry into those of ruffian pugilists. The Spanish bulls have been immemorially famous. Hercules, that renowned cattle- fancier, was lured into Spain by the lowing of the herds of Geryon, the ancestor ( se dice) of the Duque de Osuna. The best bulls in Andalucia are bred by Cabrera at Utrera, in the identical pastures where Geryon’s herds were pastured and “ lifted ” by the demigod, whence, according to Strabo (iii. 169), they were obliged, after fifty days’ feeding, to be driven off from fear of bursting from fat. Some of the finest Castilian bulls, such as appear at Madrid, are bred on the Jarama , near Aranjuez. Bull-fights are extremely expensive, costing from 3007. to 4007. a time ; accordingly, except in the chief capitals and Andalucia, they are only got up now and then, on great church festivals and upon royal and public rejoicings. As Andalucia is the head-quarters of the ring, and Seville the capital, the alma mater of the tauromachists of the Peninsula, the necessity of sending to a distance for artists and animals increases the expense. The prices of admittance, compared to the wages of labour in Spain, are high. Bull-baiting in any shape is irresistible to the Spaniards, his hostility to the bull grows with his growth, and the very children play at toro, just as ours do at leap-frog. Few grown-up Spaniards, when on a journey, can pass a bull (or hardly even a cow) without bullying and insulting him, by waving their cloaks in the defiance of el cajpeo . The profits of the bull-fight are usually destined for the support of hospitals, and, certainly, the fever and the frays subsequent to the show provide patients as well as funds. The Plaza is usually under the superintendence of a society of noblemen and gentlemen, called Maestranzas , instituted in 1562, by Philip II., in the hope of improving the breed of Spanish horses and men-at-arms. The king is always the Hermano mayor , or elder brother. These tauromachian brotherhoods were confined to four cities, viz. Bonda, Seville, Granada, and Valencia, to which Zaragoza was adcied by Ferdinand VII., the only reward it ever obtained for its heroic defence against the invaders. The mem- bers, or maestrantes , of each city are distinguished by the colour of their uniforms : as they must all be of gentle blood, Hidalgos , and are entitled to wear a gaudy costume, the person-decoration honour is much sought for. The day appointed for the bull-feast is announced by placards of all colours. We omit to notice their contents, as the traveller will see them on every wall. The first thing is to secure a good place beforehand, by sending for a Boletin de Sombra, a “ ticket in the shade.” The prices of the seats vary according to position ; the best places are on the northern side, in the shade. The transit of the sun over the Plaza, the zodiacal progress into Taurus, is certainly not the worst calculated astrono- mical observation in Spain : the line of shadow defined on the arena is marked by a gradation of prices. The sun of torrid, tawny Spain, on which it once never set, is not to be trifled with, and the sum- mer season is selected because pastures are plentiful, which keep § 22. — - Bull-fights . [ 67 ] the bulls in good condition, and the days are longer. The fights take place in the afternoon, when the sun is less vertical. The different seats and prices are detailed in the bills of the play, with the names of the combatants, and the colours and breeds of the bulls. The day before the fight the bulls destined for the spectacle are brought to a site outside the town. N.B. No amateur should fail to ride out to see what the ganado, the biclios or cattle, is like. The encierro , the driving them from this place to the arena, is a service of danger, but is extremely picturesque and national. No artist or aficionado should omit attending it. The bulls are enticed by tame oxen, cabestros , into a road which is barricaded on each side, and then are driven full speed by the mounted conocedores into the Plaza. It is so exciting a spectacle that the poor who cannot afford to go to the bull-fight, risk their lives and cloaks in order to get the front places, and the best chance of a stray poke en passant . The next afternoon (Sunday is usually ' the day) all the world crowds to the Plaza de toros ; nothing, when the tide is full, can exceed the gaiety and sparkle of a Spanish public going, eager and dressed in their best, to the fight. All the streets or open spaces near the outside of the arena are a spectacle. The bull-fight is to Madrid what a Beview is to Paris, and the Derby to London. Sporting men now put on all their majo- finery : the distinguished ladies wear on these occasions white lace mantillas ; a fan, abanico , is quite necessary, as it was among the Bomans. The aficionados and “ the gods ” prefer the pit, ten - nido, the lower range, in order, by being nearer, that they may not lose the nice traits of tauromaquia. The plaza has a language to itself, a dialect peculiar to the ring. The coup (Poeil on entrance is unique ; the classical scene bursts on the foreigner in all the glory of the South, and he is carried back to the Coliseum under Commodus. The president sits in centre box. The proceedings open with the procession of the performers, the mounted spearmen, picador es ; then follow the chulos , the attendants on foot, who wear their silk cloaks, capas de durancillo, in a peculiar manner, with the arms projecting in front ; and, lastly, the slayers, the espadas , and the splendid mule-team, el tiro , which is des- tined to carry off the slain. The profession of bull-fighter is very low- caste in Spain, although the champions are much courted by some young nobles, like our blackguard boxers, and are the pride and darlings of all the lower classes. Those killed on the spot were formerly denied the burial rites, as dying without confession, but a clergyman is now in attendance with Su Magestad (the consecrated Host), ready to give always spiritual assistance to a dying combatant. When all the bull-fighting company, thus glittering in their gorgeous costume, have advanced and passed the president, a trumpet sounds ; the president throws the key of the toril, the cell of the bull, to the alguacil or policeman, which he ought to catch in his feathered hat. This gentleman is unpopular ; the people dislike the finisher of the law, and mob him by instinct as little birds do a hawk: as the alguacil generally rides like a judge or a Lord Mayor, many are the hopes and kind wishes that he may tumble off and be gored by a bull of Nemesis , The different performers now take their places as our fielders do at a / 2 § 22 . — Bull-fights , [ 68 ] cricket-match. The bull-fight is a tragedy in three acts, lasts about twenty minutes, and each consists of precisely the same routine. From six to eight bulls are usually killed during each “ funcion ; ” occasion- ally another — a toro de Gracia — is conceded to popular clamour, which here will take no denial. When the door of the toril is opened, the public curiosity to see the first rush out is intense ; and as none know whether the bull will behave well or ill, all are anxious to judge of his character from the manner he behaves upon first entering the ring. The animal, turned from his dark cell into glare and crowd, feels the novelty of his position ; but is happily ignorant of his fate, for die he must, however skilful or brave his fight. This death, the catastrophe foreshadowed again as in a Greek play, does not diminish the sustained interest of the spectators, as the varied chances in the progress of the acts offer infinite incidents and unexpected combinations. In the first of the three acts the pica- dores are the chief performers ; three of them are now drawn up, one behind the other, to the right at the tablas, the barrier between the arena and spectators ; each sits bolt upright on his Rosinante, with his lance in his rest, and as valiant as Don Quijote. They wear the broad-brimmed Thessalian hat ; their legs are cased with iron and leather, which gives a heavy look ; and the right one, which is presented to the bull, is the best protected. This greave is termed la mona — the more scientific name is gregoriana , from the inventor, Don Gregorio Gallo — just as we say a spencer, from the noble Earl. The spear, garrocha , is defensive rather than offensive ; the blade, la pua , ought not to exceed one inch ; the sheathing is, however, pushed back when the picador anticipates an awkward customer. A butcherous bull is called carnicero , who charges home, and again one charge more ; siemprellegando y con recargo . None but a brave bull will face this garrocha , which they recollect of old. Those who shrink from the punishment, castigo, are scientifically termed temerosos , recelosos , tardos a partir , huyendose de la suerte , tardos d las varas. When the bull charges, the picador , holding the lance under his right arm, pushes to the right, and turns his horse to the left; the bull, if turned, passes on to the next picador. This is called recibir , to receive the point — recibio dos puyazos , tomo tres varas. If a bull is turned at the first charge, he seldom comes up well again — feme el cas- tigo. A bold bull sometimes is cold and shy at first, but grows warmer by being punished — poco prometia d su salida , bravo pero reparoncillo, solid frio , pero credo en las varas. Those who are very active — alegres , ligeros , con muclias piernas: those who paw the ground — que aranan , escarban la tierra — are not much esteemed ; they are hooted by the populace, and execrated as cobras (goats), becerritos (little calves), vacas (cows), which is no compliment to a bull ; and, however unskilled in bucolics, all Spaniards are capital judges of bulls in the ring. Such animals as show the white feather are loathed, as depriving the public of their just rights, and are treated with insult, and, moreover, soundly beaten as they pass near the tablas , by forests of sticks, la cachiporra. The stick of the elegant majo, when going to the bull-fight, is sui generis , and is called la chivata ; taper, and between 4 and 5 feet long, it terminates in a lump or knob, while the top is forked, into which the thumb is inserted. This chivata is peeled, like the rods of Laban, in § 22. — Bull-fights. [ 69 ] alternate rings, black and white or red. The lower classes content themselves with a common shillelagh ; one with a knob at the end is preferred, as administering a more impressive whack. While a slow bull is beaten and abused, a murderous bull, duro chocante carnicero y pegajoso , who kills horses, upsets men, and clears the plaza , becomes deservedly a universal favourite ; the conquering hero is hailed with “ Viva torol viva torol bravo toro !" Long life is wished to the poor beast by those who know he must be killed in ten minutes. The no- menclature of praise or blame is defined with the nicety of phrenology ; but if life be too short (as it is said to be) to learn fox-hunting phrase- ology, it certainly is to learn that of the bull-fighter. Suffice it to remark, that claro, bravo , and boyante are highly complimentary. Seco , carnudo, pegajoso imply ugly customers. During these saturnalia the liberty of speech is perfect ; even the absolute monarch bows now to the people’s voice ; the vox populi is the vox Dei in this levelling ren- dezvous of bloodshed. The horses destined for the plaza are those which in England would be sent to the knacker ; their being of no value renders Spaniards, who have an eye chiefly to what a thing is worth, indifferent to their suffer- ings. If you remark how cruel it is to “ let that poor horse struggle in death’s agonies,” they will say, “Ah quel na vale nd” (“Oh ! he is worth nothing.”) When his tail quivers in the last death-struggle, the spasm is remarked as a jest, mira que cola ! The torture of the horse is the blot of the bull-fight : no Englishman or lover of the noble beast can witness his sufferings without disgust ; the fact of these animals being worth nothing in a money point of view increases the danger to the rider; it renders them slow, difficult to manage, and very unlike those of the ancient combats, when the finest steeds were chosen, quick as lightning, turning at touch, and escaping the deadly rush : the eyes of these poor animals, who would not otherwise face the bull, are bound with a handkerchief like criminals about to be executed ; thus they await blindfold the fatal rip which is to end their life of misery. If only wounded, the gash is sewed up and stopped with tow, as a leak ! and life is prolonged for new agonies. When the poor brute is dead at last, his carcass is stripped in a battle. The picadores are subject to hair-breadth escapes and severe falls : few have a sound rib left. The bull often tosses horse and rider in one ruin ; and when the victims fall on the ground, exhausts his rage on his prostrate enemies, till lured away by the glittering cloaks of the chulos , who come to the assistance of the fallen picador . These horsemen often show marvellous skill in managing to place their horses as a ram- part between them and the bull. When these deadly struggles take place, when life hangs on a thread, the amphitheatre is peopled with heads. Every expression of anxiety, eagerness, fear, horror, and delight is stamped on speaking countenances. These feelings are wrought up to a pitch when the horse, maddened with wounds and terror, plunging in the death-struggle, the crimson streams of blood streaking his sweat- whitened body, flies from the infuriated bull, still pursuing, still goring : then is displayed the nerve, presence of mind, and horsemanship of the undismayed picador . It is, in truth, a piteous sight to see the poor dying horses treading out their entrails, yet saving their riders unhurt. § 22. — Bull- fights. [ 70 ] The miserable steed, when dead, is dragged out, leaving a bloody furrow on the sand. The picador , if wounded, is carried out and forgotten — los muertos y idos , no tienen amigos (the dead and absent have no friends) — a new combatant fills the gap, the battle rages, he is not missed, fresh incidents arise, and no time is left for regret or reflection. The bull bears on his neck a ribbon, la devisa ; this is the trophy which is most acceptable to the querida of a buen torero . The bull is the hero of the scene, yet, like Milton’s Satan, he is foredoomed and without reprieve. Nothing can save him from the certain fate which awaits all, whether brave or cowardly. The poor creatures sometimes endea- vour in vain to escape, and leap over the barrier ( harrera ), into the tendido , among the spectators, upsetting sentinels, water-sellers, &c., and creating a most amusing hubbub. The bull which shows this craven turn — un tunante cobarde picaro — is not deemed worthy of a noble death, by the sword. He is baited, pulled down, and stabbed in the spine. A bull that flinches from death is scouted by all Spaniards, who neither beg for their own life nor spare that of a foe. At the signal of the president, and sound of a trumpet, the second act commences with the chidos. This word chulo signifies, in the Arabic, a lad, a merryman, as at our Astley’s. They are picked young men, who commence in these parts their tauromachian career. The duty of this light division is to draw off the bull from the picador when endan- gered, which they do with their coloured cloaks ; their address and agility are surprising, they skim over the sand like glittering humming- birds, scarcely touching the earth. They are dressed, d lo majo, in short breeches, and without gaiters, just like Figaro in the opera of the e Barbiere de Sevilla .’ Their hair is tied into a knot behind, mono , and enclosed in the once universal silk net, the redecilla — the identical reticulum — of which so many instances are seen on ancient Etruscan vases. No bull-fighter ever arrives at the top of his profession with- out first excelling as a chulo (apprentice), then he begins to be taught how to entice the bull, llamar al toro, and to learn his mode of attack, and how to parry it. The most dangerous moment is when these chulos venture out into the middle of the plaza, and are followed by the bull to the barrier, in which there is a small ledge, on which they place their foot and vault over, and a narrow slit in the boarding, through which they slip. Their escapes are marvellous ; they seem really sometimes, so close is the run, to be helped over the fence by the bull’s horns. Occasionally some curious suertes are exhibited by chulos and expert toreros , which do not strictly belong to the regular drama, such as the suerte de la capa , where the bull is braved with no ether defence but a cloak : another, the salto tras cuerno, when the per- former, as the bull lowers his head to toss him, places his foot between his horns and is lifted over him.* The chulos , in the second act, are the sole performers ; another exclusive part is to place small barbed darts, banderillas , which are ornamented with cut paper of different colours, on each side of the neck of the bull. The bander iller os go right up to him, holding the arrows at the shaft’s end, and pointing the barbs at * The correct term intoresque euphuism is astas, spears; cuernos, horns, is seldom mentioned to ears polite, as its secondary meaning might give offence; the vulgar, however, call things by their improper names. § 22 . — Bull-fights. [ 71 ] the bull ; just when the animal stoops to toss them, they dart them into his neck and slip aside. The service appears to be more dangerous than it is, but it requires a quick eye, a light hand and foot. The barbs should be placed exactly on each side — a pretty pair, a good match — buenos pares. Sometimes these arrows are provided with crackers, which, by means of a detonating powder, explode the moment they are affixed in the neck, banderillas de fuego. The agony of the tortured animal frequently makes him bound like a kid, to the frantic delight of the people. The last trumpet now sounds ; the arena is cleared for the third act ; the espada , the executioner, the man of death, stands before his victim alone , and thus concentrates in himself an interest previously frittered among the number of combatants. On entering, he addresses the pre- sident, and throws his montera , his cap, to the ground, and swears he will do his duty. In his right hand he holds a long straight Toledan blade, la espada ; in his left he waves the muleta , the red flag, the engano , the lure, which ought not (so Eomero laid down) to be so large as the standard of a religious brotherhood (cofradia), nor so small as a lady’s pocket-handkerchief ( panuelito de senoritd) : it should be about a yard square. The colour is red, because that best irritates the bull and conceals blood. There is always a spare matador , in case of accidents, which may happen in the best regulated bull-fights ; he is called media espada , or sdbresaliente. The espada (el diestro , the cunning in fence in olden books) advances to the bull, in order to entice him towards him- — citarlo d la suerte , d la jurisdiccion del engano — to subpoena him, to get his head into chancery, as our ring would say : he next rapidly studies his character, plays with him a little, allows him to run once or twice on the muleta , and then prepares for the coup de grace . There are several sorts of bulls — levantados , the bold and rushing ; parados , the slow and sly ; aplomados, the heavy and leaden. The bold are the easiest to kill ; they rush, shutting their eyes, right on to the lure or flag. The worst of all are the sly bulls ; when they are mar raj os, y de sentido, cunning and not running straight, when they are revueltos, cuando ganan terreno y rematen en el bulto , when they stop in their charge and run at the man instead of the flag, they are most dangerous. The espada who is long killing his bull, or shows the white feather, is insulted by the jeers of the impatient populace; he nevertheless remains cool and collected, in proportion as the spectators and bull are mad. There are many suertes or ways of killing the bull ; the principal is la suerte de f rente — the espada receives the charge on his sword, lo mato de un red - bido. The volapie, or half-volley, is beautiful, but dangerous ; the ma- tador takes him by advancing, corriendoselo. A firm hand, eye, and nerve form the essence of the art ; the sword enters just between the left shoulder and the blade. In nothing is the real fancy so fastidious as in the exact nicety of the placing this death- wound ; when the thrust is true — buen estoque — death is instantaneous, and the bull, vomiting forth blood, drops at the feet of his conqueror, who, drawing the sword, waves it in triumph over the fallen foe. It is indeed the triumph of knowledge over brute force ; all that was fire, fury, passion, and life, falls in an instant, still for ever. The team of mules now enter, glittering with flags, and tinkling § 22. — Bull-fights. [72] with bells, whose gay decorations contrast with the stern cruelty and blood; the dead bull is carried off at a rapid gallop, which always delights the populace. The espada wipes the hot blood from his sword, and bows with admirable sang-froid to the spectators, who throw their hats into the arena, a compliment which he returns by throwing them back again. When a bull will not run at all at the picador , or at the muleta , he is called a toro abanto , and the media luna , the half-moon, is called for ; this is the cruel ancient Oriental mode of houghing the cattle (Joshua xi. 6). The instrument is the Iberian bident — a sharp steel crescent placed on a long pole. The cowardly blow is given from behind ; and when the poor beast is crippled, an assistant, the cachetero , pierces the spinal marrow with his cachete—puntilla , or pointed dagger — with a traitorous stab from behind. This is the usual method of slaughtering cattle in Spain. To perform all these operations (el desjarretar ) is con- sidered beneath the dignity of the matadors or espadas , some of them, however, will kill the bull by plunging the point of their sword in the vertebrae, el descabellar — the danger gives dignity to the difficult feat. The identical process obtains in each of the fights that follow. After a short collapse, a fresh object raises a new desire, and the fierce sport is renewed through eight repetitions ; and not till darkness covers the heavens, do the mob —fcex nondum satiata — retire to sacrifice the rest of the night to Bacchus and Venus, with a passing homage to the knife. The Spaniards, sons of “ truces I beri,” are very tender on the subject of the cruelty or barbarity of this spectacle, which foreigners, who abuse it the most, are always the most eager to attend. Much may be said on both sides of the question. Mankind has never been over- considerate in regarding the feelings or sufferings of animals, when influenced by the spirit of sporting . This sentiment rules in the arena. In England no sympathy is shown for game— fish, flesh, or fowl. They are preserved to be destroyed, to afford sport, the end of which is death. The amusement is in playing the salmon, the fine run , as the pro- longation of animal torture is termed in the tender vocabulary of the chase. At all events, in Spain horses and bulls are killed outright, and not left to die the lingering death of the poor wounded hare in countless battues. A former Mr. Windham protested “ against looking too microscopically into bull-baits or ladies’ faces and we must pause before we condemn the bull in Spain, whilst we wink at the fox at Melton, or the pheasant in Norfolk. As far as the loss of human life is concerned, the bull-fighters themselves deserve no pity. Foreigners who argue that the effects produced on Spaniards by a bull-fight are exactly those which are produced on themselves, are neither logical nor true reasoners. The Spanish have always been guerilleros ; such a cruel mimic game of death and cunning must be extremely congenial. From long habit they either see not, or are not offended by those painful and bloody details which most distress the unaccustomed stranger, while, on the other hand, the interest of the awful tragedy is undeniable, irresistible, and all-absorbing. The display of manly courage, nerve, and agility, and all on the very verge of death, is most exciting. There are features in a bold bull with accomplished combatants, which carry all before them ; § 23. — Physical and Military Geography of the Peninsula. [ 73 ] but for one good bull, how many are the bad ? Spanish women (the younger and more tender especially) scream and are dreadfully affected in all real moments of danger, in spite of their long familiarity with the fascinating spectacle. Their grand object, however, after all, is not to see the bull, but to be seen themselves, and their dress. The better classes generally interpose their fans at the most painful incidents, and cer- tainly show no want of sensibility. They shrink from or do not see the cruel incidents, but at the same time they adore the manly courage and address that is exhibited. The lower classes of females, as a body, behave quite as respectably as those of other countries do at executions, or other dreadful scenes, where they crowd with their babies. The case with English ladies is far different. They have heard the bull-fight condemned, from their childhood : they see it for the first time when grown up, when curiosity is their leading feeling. The first sight delights them : as the bloody tragedy proceeds, they first get frightened, and then disgusted. Few are able to sit out more than one course (corrida), and fewer ever re-enter the amphitheatre. Probably a Spanish woman, if she could be placed in precisely the same condition, would not act very differently, and the fair test would be to bring her, for the first time, to an English brutal boxing-match. Thus much for practical tauromachia.* A bill was presented to the Cortes of 1878, begging for the abolition of bull-fights in Spain. No Government, however, can hope to coun- teract the passion of the Spaniards for their*national amusement, and there seems no prospect of their being suppressed. § 23. — Physical and Military Geography of the Peninsula. Spain and Portugal may be roughly described as forming a square of nearly 500 miles’ side, surrounded by the sea, except on the eastern portion of the N. side, where it joins on to France. This space is divided by steep and high mountain chains into five principal river basins, of which four — the Douro, Tagus, Guadiana, and Guadalquivir — trend east and west ; and the other, the Ebro, trends from N.W. to S.E. The mountain chain of the Pyrenees sloping steep to the north, runs right along the north side from Cape Finisterre on the Atlantic to Cape Creux on the Mediterranean ; the eastern portion of the range forms the boundary between France and Spain, the western portion fronts the Bay of Biscay. A similar range, the A^uj arras, sloping steep to the south, forms the southern face of the Peninsula ; it commences at Tarifa and termi- nates near Alicante. This range encloses the rich tropical district of * Those who wish to go deeper into its philosophy, are referred to 4 La Carta historica sobre el On'gen y Progresos de las Fiestas de Toros/ Nicholas Fernandez de Moratin, Madrid, 1877. * Tauromaquia, 6 Arte de Torear; por un Aficionado/ Madrid, 1804; written by an amateur named Gomez (Jose Delgado, jPepe lllo, furnished the materials). It contains thirty engravings, which represent all the implements, costumes and different operations. 4 La Tauromaquia, 6 Arte de Torear,’ Madrid, 1827 : 4 Elogio de las Corridas de Toros/ Manuel Martinez Rueda, Madrid,. 1831 ; 4 Pan y Toros,’ Gaspar Melchior de Jovellanos, Madrid, 1820 ; and the ‘ Tauromaquia. completa/ Madrid, 1838, by Francisco Montes, the Pepe lllo of his day. [ 74 ] § 24 . — Maps. the Peninsula, which was held by the Moors when driven from the rest of Spain. A cross-range, called the Iberian Mountains, which slopes steep to the east, runs from about the middle of the northern range, in the direc- tion of the east end of the southern range, terminating at the Mediter- ranean. Between this cross-range and the east part of the Pyrenees runs the Ebro, which thus forms a second barrier between France and Spain. The possession of this river-basin has sometimes formed the object of French cupidity. The other river-basins all start from the Iberian Mountains, west of which the country slopes gradually down to the Atlantic, forming the high dreary central plateau of Spain. The rivers are separated by high and steep mountain chains : the Sierra Morena between the Guadalquivir and the Guadiana ; the mountains of Toledo between the Guadiana and the Tagus ; and the Sierra Guadarama and Sierra Estella, between the Tagus and the Douro. There were and are still few good roads through Spain and Portugal, and these are defended by fortresses at important points, besides offering many defensive positions in the rivers and mountain chains they crossed. Cross-communication between the roads and river basins was difficult. These considerations give the key to the whole strategy of the Peninsular War. The country being almost surrounded by the sea afforded to the English numerous points from which to attack the French army, which was described by Napoleon as “ always on the frontier ; ” the mountainous nature of the country and the paucity of its resources gave great opportunities for guerilla warfare, and to the saying “ that in it a small army would be defeated and a large one would starve.” The few main roads and the absence of good cross-communication between the river-basins gave Wellington the opportunity, by masterly combinations, of acting against the divided armies of the French and beating them in detail. When thus, in a series of campaigns, he had by the Lines of Torres Yedras and by the capture of Badajoz and Ciudad Rodrigo secured his own base against capture, he could securely advance in force against his enemy ; and in his final campaign, while advancing himself direct on the road to France, he could send his lieutenant, Graham, to execute the famous flank march through the northern provinces, and meeting him at Yittoria, effect the final overthrow of the French forces in the Peninsula ; then transferring his base of operations to the northern part of Spain, he could safely and securely drive the enemy over the Pyrenees and advance into France. § 24. Maps. The Travelling Map engraved by Stanford expressly for this Hand- book, is based upon the latest authorities, and will probably render any other unnecessary. The ordnance map of Spain, Mapa Itinerario Militar de Espana , in 20 sheets, is now completed and forms a good outline map, but no moun- tain ranges or hills are depicted thereon. This is a drawback in so § 25 . — Evangelical Work in Spain. [ 75 ] undulating a country as Spain, but the distances in kilometres between each ciudad, villa , lugar , and aldea are clearly and correctly shown, and every camino carretero , herradura , and senda is plainly distinguishable. The best maps, however, are those of each modern province, with marginal plans of the chief towns and their environs, by Don Francisco Coello, scale ^ooVoo* Dhey are published at 6, Calle de la Magdalena, Madrid. § 25. — Evangelical Work in Spain. In Madrid there are 7 Protestant Chapels : — 1. Leganitos 4. Chapel, Church of England. Chaplain, Rev. R. H. Whereat. 2. Leganitos 4. Chapels and Schools, supported by the United Presbyterian Church of Scotland, under the charge of Rev. John Jameson and the ex-padre Torhos. 3. Madera Baja 8. Chapel and Schools, supported by the Society in Aid of Missions in Spain, Portugal, and Mexico (Episcopal), under the charge of the ex-padre Cabrera, Bishop-elect of the Episcopal Church of Spain. 4. Calatrava 27. Chapel and Schools, supported for the most part by German Christians, with help from Holland, Great Britain, and the United States, under the charge of Pastor Fliedner. There is also an Hospital and asile , where sick Protestants and children are received for a small charge. 5. Barrio of Penuelas. Chapel and Schools, supported by the Irish Presbyterian Church. 6. Glorieta de Quevedo, Chamberi. Supported by English Christians, mostly by Mr. George Muller of Bristol. 7. A small meeting-room, supported by the American Baptist Society. Besides these there are: The Depdt of the British and Foreign Society, Preciados 46; Agent, R. Corfield, Esq. The Depot of the Religious Tract Society, Jacometrezo, 59. The Depdt of the National Bible Society of Scotland, Leganitos 4. In Seville there are 4 Churches which formerly belonged to the Catholic Church, but three of them have been bought by the Episcopal Mission Society, and one by the Edinburgh Spanish Evangelization Society. The three former are — 1. Church of the Assumption, Plaza del Museo. In this church there is English service every Sunday morning during the season. 2. Church of San Basilio, Calle Relator. 3. Church of the Marineros in Triana, on the opposite bank of the river. 4. Church of the Holy Trinity (formerly San Francisco de Paula), in the Calle de las Palmas. Under the charge of Don Manrique Alonso, Agent of the Spanish Evangelical Society. In Barcelona there are 3 principal Missions : — 1. That of the Swiss Church, with Chapel and Schools. The pastor, M. Empaytaz, lives in Calle de las Cortes, 341. [ 76 ] § 25 . — Evangelical Work in Spain „ 2. That of the Wesleyans, in Calle Abaixadors, 10, under the charge of Rev. R. Simpson. 3. In the suburb of Gracia there are several halls, mostly supported by English Plymouth Brethren. In the other towns of Spain there are the following missions, taking them in order from the north Coruna, Pontevedra, Eerrol, Oviedo, Santander, Bilbao, San Sebastian, Pamplona, Zaragoza (these last 4 are under the charge of Messrs. Gulick, Agents of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and they have out-stations in Logroho, Pradejon and Tauste), Valladolid, Salamanca, Leon, Monistrol, near Montserrat, Figueras, Reus, Alcoy, Cartagena, Malaga (Calle Ste. Augustin 11, Episcopal Mission), Granada, Tendillas 7, supported by Spanish Evangelization Society, under charge of Dn. Jose Alhama, one of those who were banished in 1860 for their adherence to Evangelical doctrines. Around Barcelona there are a number of mission schools, which are self-supporting, as — Hospitalet, Sans, Villafranca del Panades, Rubi, Pont de Armentera. Cordoba, Candelaria 12, supported by the Spanish Evangelization Society, under the charge of Rev. Henry Duncan. Utrera, Huelva, Tarsis, Rio Tinto, Jerez — here there is an elegant Chapel and Schools built for the Mission of the United Presbyterian Church of Scotland, under the charge of Rev. J. Viliesid. San Fernando, Cadiz. Hear Toledo there are two small mission stations, supported mostly by the people themselves in Camunas and Mocejon. In the Balearic Isles, Mallorca and Minorca, the Wesleyans and Plymouth Brethren have several stations. In Palma de Mallorca, Calle del Rey 25. Hours of Service, — Sundays, 10 or 11 a.m. ; 4, or 8 or 8J p.m. Thurs- days, 8i p.m. There is a Protestant Hospital and large Sunday-school at Madrid. Further information can be obtained on the subject from Mr. Albert Fenn, Calle Real 12, Chamberi ; or Rev. C. Tugwell, Seville. Visitors, if in any difficulty, may ask: “Donde esta la capilla Evangelica V 9 Table of Spanish Money. [77] Table of Spanish Monev, and the equivalents in English and French, at rate of Exchange, 96 reals = £1. Spanish. English. French. Spanish, English. French. Reals Pesetas. Cen- times. £ s. d. Francs. Cents. Reals. Pesetas. Cen- times. £ s. d. Francs. Cents. 1 | ' 25 0 0 2| 26 53 ' 13 25 0 11 0* 13 80 2 50 0 0 5 52 54 13 50 0 11 3 14 6 3 75 0 0 n . . 78 55 13 75 0 11 5* 14 32 4 1 0 0 10 1 4 56 14 . . 0 11 8 14 58 5 1 25 0 1 0* 1 30 57 14 25 0 11 10* 14 84 6 1 50 0 1 3 1 56 58 14 50 0 12 1 15 io ; 7 1 75 0 1 5* 1 82 59 14 75 0 12 3* 15 36 8 2 0 1 8 2 8 60 15 . . 0 12 6 15 62 ; 9 2 25 0 1 104 2 34 61 15 25 0 12 8* 15 88 10 2 50 0 2 1 2 60 62 15 50 0 12 11 16 14 11 2 75 0 2 3* 2 86 63 15 75 0 13 1* 16 40 12 3 0 2 6 3 12 64 16 . . 0 13 4 16 66 13 3 25 0 2 3 38 65 16 25 0 13 6* 16 92 14 3 50 0 2 11 3 64 66 16 50 0 13 9 17 18 15 3 75 0 3 1* 3 90 67 16 75 0 13 11* 17 44 16 4 0 3 4 4 16 68 17 . . 0 14 2 17 70 17' : 4 25 0 3 6* 4 42 69 17 25 0 14 4* 17 96 18 4 50 0 3 9 4 68 70 17 50 0 14 7 18 22 19 4 75 0 3 in 4 94 71 17 75 0 14 9* 18 48 20 5 0 4 2 5 20 72 18 . . 0 15 0 18 75 21 5 25 0 4 4* 5 46 73 18 25 0 15 2* 19 , , 22' 5 50 0 4 7 5 72 74 18 50 0 15 5 19 27 23 5 75 0 4 9* 5 98 75 18 75 0 15 H 19 53 / 24 6 0 5 0 6 25 76 19 . . 0 15 10 19 79 25 6 25 0 5 2* 6 51 77 19 25 0 16 0* 20 5 26 6 50 0 5 5 6 77 78 19 50 0 16 3 20 31 27 6 75 0 5 7* 7 3 79 19 75 0 16 5* 20 57 28, 7 0 5 10 7 29 80 20 , . 0 16 8 20 83 29, 7 25 0 6 o* 7 55 81 20 25 0 16 10* 21 9 30 7 50 0 6 3 7 81 82 20 50 0 17 1 21 35 31 7 75 0 6 5* 8 7 83 20 75 0 17 3* 21 61 32 8 0 6 8 8 33 84 21 0 17 6 21 87 33 8 25 0 6 10* 8 59 85 21 25 0 17 8* 22 13 ’ 34 8 50 0 7 1 8 85 86 21 50 0 17 11 22 39 35. 8 75 0 7 3* 9 11 87 21 75 0 18 1* 22 65 36 9 0 7 6 9 37 88 22 . , 0 18 4 22 91 37 9 25 0 7 8* 9 63 89 22 25 • 0 18 6* 23 17 38 9 50 0 7 11 9 39 90 22 50 0 18 9 23 43 39 9 75 0 8 1* 10 15 91 22 75 0 18 11* 23 69 40 10 0 8 4 10 41 92 23 . . 0 19 2 23 95 41 10 25 0 8 6* 10 67 93 23 25 0 19 4* 24 21 42 10 50 0 8 9 10 93 94 23 50 0 19 7 24 47 43 10 75 0 8 11* 11 19 95 23 75 0 19 9* 24 73 44 11 . . 0 9 2 11 45 96 24 . . 1 0 0 25 . . 45 11 25 0 9 4* 11 71 97 24 25 1 0 2 * 25 26 46 11 50 0 9 7 11 97 98 24 50 1 5 25 52 47 11 75 0 9 9* 12 23 99 24 75 l 0 7* 25 78 48 12 0 10 0 12 50 100 25 .. 1 0 10 26 4 49 12 25 0 10 2* 12 76 200 50 2 1 8 52 8 50 12 50 0 10 5 13 2 300 75 . . 3 2 0 78 12 51 12 75 | <0 10 7* 13 2S 500 125 . . 5 4 .2 130 20 52 13 *• 0 10 10 13 54 1000 250 10 8 4 260 40 LATEST COEBECTIONS. Page 6. Fuenteerabia. — At high tide it is best to cross over in a boat from Hen- daye : it is a long way round through Irun. Page 11. Yitoria. — The Ch. of S. Pedro, with its fine portal and tombs, should be seen. Page 22. Burgos. — The road to the Cartuja is shady all the way. Las Huelgas is scarcely worth a visit, as nothing can be seen but the transept of the Ch. Page 103. Toledo. — The direct Ely. from Ma- drid takes one hour less than that by Aranjuez: change carriages at Ah godor. Page 380. Gibraltar. — P. & O. Steamers for England reach Gibraltar Thursday . Page 410, Col. 2. Granada. — The old Pescaderia is demolished, and a smart new one built. Page 445, Col. 1. For Gaudairo read Guadiaro bis. N.B. Avoid the Padrone of the Yenta de Guadiaro. SECTION I. MADRID AND THE CASTXLES (OLD AND NEW). INTRODUCTION, THE PROVINCES OP THE CASTILES .* CHARACTER OP THE COUNTRY AND NATIVES. These, the two empire provinces, join each other, and constitute a large portion of the central plateau of Spain, forming, in fact, one-third of the entire country, of which they are truly “ the heart and citadel : 5 composed chiefly of tertiary formation, they rise at an average about 2000 feet above the sea, and this table-land is itself encompassed with mountains and inter- sected by diverging ranges : thus the Montes de Toledo divide the basins of the Guadiana and Tagus, while the Sierra de Guadarrama separates those of Tagus and Duero : to the east rise the Sierras de Cuenca, some of the highest mountains of these provinces. These provinces, now divided into Old and New, Castilla la Yieja y Nueva, formed under the ancients the districts of the Celtiberi, Oretani, and Carpetani. The N.W. portion was called Bardulia under the Goths : but this name was changed into that of Castilla so early as 801, and the distinction Yetula, Vieja , was afterwards added, to mark the difference between it and the new and more southern portions which were subsequently wrested from the Moor. The “canting” name Castilla was taken from the number of fortresses erected on the frontier of Leon and Asturias, whence the Moors called the province Ardo-l-kaiad, the “ Land of the Castles,’ ' and also Kashtellah.* The primitive Castilian castles were no unsubstantial Chateaux en Espagne , but formed real defences, held by brave men, and were built in imitation of Eomau citadels, the solid masonry being quite unlike the Oriental tapia of the Moorish Alcazares of the south. The Castiles bear for arms, “ Gules, a castle or ; ” these arms are carried as the emblem of the whole nation. Castilla la Vieja, like Leon, being close to the north-west mountains, from whence the Gotho-Spaniard burst forth against the Moors, was soon recovered from the infidel : it became a petty sovereignty, a Condado , or “ county/’ often, however, in some measure subject to the kings of Leon, until declared inde- pendent about 762, under the Conde Eodrigo Fruelaz. He was father of the renowned judge Nuno Easura, whose descendant, Dona Nuna Easura, twelfth countess, married in 1028 Sancho, King of Navarre ; their son Ferdinand was the first who assumed the title of King of Castile, and of Leon also, on his marriage with Sancha, daughter and heiress of Bermudo III. These two king- * Of the number of walled forts in Spain in earlier times, Livy (xxii. 19), Appian (B. H. 46f), and Hirtius (B. H. 8), make mention, [Spain, 1882.] B 2 Sect. I. The Country and Natives. doms, separated again for a short period, became finally united in the thirteenth century under St. Ferdinand. They were inherited by Isabel, who, being Reina Propietarici , or queen of them in her own right, was married in 1479 . to Ferdinand, afterwards King of Aragon, and thus at their deaths the consoli- dated kingdoms were handed down to their grandson Charles Y. * The two Castiles are the largest provinces in Spain, and contain some of the oldest and most truly national Spanish cities. The mountains, highly pictu- resque, abound in curious botany and geology, and, with their Swiss-like valleys watered by trout-streams, present a perfect contrast to the parameras, tierras de carnpo y secanos, the plains and table-lands, which are lonely tiresome steppes, bounded only by the horizon. Treeless, songless, joyless, and without hedges, enclosures, or landmarks, this tawny liortus siccus looks as if belonging to no one, and not worth possessing ; yet the cultivators, who are born and die on these spots, know to whom every inch belongs, although the stranger’s eye vainly attempts to measure the expanse. The Castilians seldom plant any trees except those which bear fruit or give shade for their alamedas, for in truth immediate profit is the utilitarian standard, whilst to plant timber is a thing of forethought for others, and is based on confidence in institutions which will guarantee enjoyment at a distant period : all this in a land where people live from day to day, and no one thinks of the manana , or can count on seeing it, much as he talks about it; it is held to be downright folly in theory and practice. Fuel and timber for domestic purposes are, in consequence, dear at Madrid. Coke is used to a very great extent in fireplaces and kitchens. The soil, again, exposed to a calcining sun, becomes less favourable for cultivation, while the rains and dews are absorbed, and the sources of rivers diminished. Drought is the curse of the earth, as dryness is of the bright clear air ; frequently it does not rain for many successive months, and the crops perish, being burnt up. In summer, a salitrose dust irritates the eye, already sickened with the nakedness of the land. As water is scarce, both for irrigation and domestic uses, nature and man are alike adust and tawny ; everything is brown — his house, his jacket, his stew, his wife, and his ass. The silence of man and nature chills the heart. Neither traveller nor artist knows what to do with these dusty plains : ah che seccatura ! They afford, however, some of the finest wheat districts in the world. The Chamorro and the Candeal are the best and usual sorts of grain, of which there are more than twenty varieties. They are also well adapted for the growth of saffron, Azafran (Arabice Saffrd , yellow), which enters largely into Spanish cookery and com- plexion. A tolerable red wine is made in some favoured localities, and the Garhanzos are excellent. The Cicer , or Chicle Pea , is the vegetable of Spain, where its use, with dried peas, rice, &c., argues a low state of horticultural knowledge. The taste for the Garhanzo was introduced by the Carthaginians ; it forms an especial ingredient in the Spanish olla. There are very few isolated farms in these provinces, and the hamlets (scattered few and far between) are mostly built of mere mud, or of adobes , bricks dried in the sun (Arabice Attob , tobi ) ; while the want of glass in the openings called windows, adds, according to our ideas, to the look of dilapidation: their hovels are not even picturesque. The labour of the cottagers is increased by the distance of their residence from their work : they have to start long before daybreak, and return weary to their cattle after nightfall, in truly antique groups. The peasants wear capas , cloaks, or anguarinas , greatcoats made of pano pardo. The capa at least, with its classical folds, gives dignity to the rags it conceals ; but the anguarina confers a beggarly, Irish look. Some travellers, who merely hurry along the high road, and observe the rustics doing apparently * For historical details consult ‘ Historia del Condado/ Diego Gutierrez Coronel, 4to., Mad., J'785 ; ‘La Castilla,’ Man. Risco,, 4to., Mad., It82; and the paper by Benito Montejo, ‘Memorias Acad. Hist.’ iii. 245. In trod. The Country and Natives . 3 nothing, but loitering in cloaked groups, or resting on their spades to look at them, set all down as idlers, which is not the case ; for the hand of toil pauses only for the instant when the stranger passes, and then labours on unceasingly from early dawn to dewy eve ; and those who stand still in the market-place are willing to work, but there is none to hire them. Generally speaking, both man, woman, and child are overworked in the fields of Spain, where human bone and sinew supply the want of the commonest machinery. These sons of labour eat the bread earned by the briny sweat of their brow : yet they are a happy and contented race, as fond of amusement as children, and full of raillery, mother- wit, and practical joking. The Castilian is a good man and true ; well-bred rather than polite, and inclined to receive rather than to make advances, being seldom what the French call prevenant, but then when once attached he is sincere ; his manner is serious, and marked by a most practical equality ; for all feel equal to the proudest noble through their common birthright of being Castilians. Treat them, however, as they expect to be treated, and the stranger will find that all this ceremony of form and of words, all this nicety of sitting down and getting up, does not extend to deeds. A Castilian, although a creature of routine, and uneducated, is shrewd and intelligent in his limited scope, which does not in truth extend much farther than the smoke of his chimney ; self, indeed, is the centre of Castilian gravity. But to see the Castilian in a genuine condition, he must be sought for in the better class of villages, at a distance from Madrid ; for the capital has exercised no civilising influence, or cause;! any care for material comforts, as under its very walls the peasant is a barbarian, while within them resides the worst populacho of the Peninsula. The superior bearing of the manly country labrador over the stunted burgess of Madrid is very remarkable, and in his lowly cottage a truer hospitality will be found than in the tapestried halls of the grandee, where most it is pretended. Among themselves the villagers are social and gregarious, their light-hearted confidence contrasting with the suspicious reserve of the higher classes. The Castilians, from their male and trustworthy character, are still Robur Hispanise (Flor. ii. 17, 9) : they constitute the virility, vitality, and heart of the nation, and the sound stuff of which it has — if ever — to be reconstructed. The Cid was the personification of the genuine character of these ancient chatelains of Christendom, and of the spirit of that age; and however degenerated the pigmy aristocracy, the sinewy, muscular forms of the brave peasants, true children of the Goth, are no unfitting framework of a vigorous and healthy, although uneducated, mind. Here, indeed, the remark of Burns holds good, that “ the rank is but the guinea stamp, the man’s the gold for all that.” “ All the force of Europe,” said our gallant Peterborough, u would not be sufficient to subdue the Castiles with the people against it;” and like him, the Duke however thwarted by the so-called better classes, never despaired while the “ country was with him.” The ancient qualities of the Castilian peasant are, self-respect, love of God, and loyalty : he is true to the king, his faith, and to himself; he hates foreign dictation, clings to the ways of his ancestors, thinks Spain the first kingdom in the world, the Castiles its first provinces, and he himself the first of its population. No wonder, therefore, that these peasants, as Addison said of those in the Georgies, toss about even manure with an air of dignity ; this is the result also of natural instinct even more than of social conventions, since each, esteeming himself inferior to none but the king, cares little for the accidents of rank and fortune. ( 4 ) Sect. I. ROUTES. [The names of places are printed in black only in those Routes where the places themselves are described.] ROUTE PAGE 1 Bayonne to Madrid, by San Sebastian, Vitoria, Burgos, Valladolid, and Avila. Rail 4 2 Madrid and its Environs . . 33 3 Madrid to the Esoorial, La Granja, and Segovia. Rail and Diligence 86 4 Madrid to Toledo. Rail . . 103 4AMadrid to Aranjuez. Rail .. 123 5 Madrid to Cuenca, by Taran- con. Diligence and Railway 125 6 Cuenca to Valencia, by Min- glanilla. Tartana or Horse- back 133 7 Cuenca to Madrid, by Sacedon. Horseback, Diligence, and Rail 135 8 Cuenca to Teruel. Horseback 136 9 Teruel to Calutayud, by Da- roca. Diligence 138 10 Teruel to Valencia, by Segorbe, Horseback, or Diligence and Rail 139 1 2 Madrid to Talavera de la Reina. Rail .. 140 13 Avila to Plasencia, by Bejar. Horseback 143 15 Salamanca to Zamora. Rail and Diligence 144 16 Salamanca to Ciudad Rodrigo. 149 17 Salamanca to Fregeneda, on the Frontiers of Portugal. Horseback 152 ROUTE PAGE 18 Medina del Campo to Sala- manca ; the Battle-held, Alba de Tormes, and the Baths of Ledesma. Rail or Dili- gence 152 19 Medina del Campo to Zamora. Rail 165 20 Valladolid to Toro, by Si- mancas and Tordesillas. Dili- gence 166 21 Valladolid to Benavente, by Medina de Rio-Seco. Dili- gence 168 22 Medina del Campo to Segovia, by Olxnedo and La Granja, Railway in course of con- struction 170 23 San Chidrian to Madrid — Passage of the Guadarrama Mountains. Horseback .. 171 24 Venta de Banos to Santander, by Paiencia and Reinosa. Rail 171 25 Santander to the Baths of Puente Viesgo, Ontane&a, and Alee da. Rail and Diligence 178 26 Burgos to Logrono, by Navar- rete. Horseback 178 27 Burgos to Madrid, by Lerma, Aranda de Buero, and Somo- sierra. Carriage-road . . .. 180 28 Burgos ten Santander. Dili- gence and Rail 183 ROUTE 1. PARIS AND BAYONNE TO MADRID, BY SAN SEBASTIAN, VITORIA, BURGOS, VALLADOLID, AND AVILA (RAIL). 908 m. Two trains daily. The evening ex- press, 1st class only, reaches the fron- tier at Irun, 511 m., in 17J h., and Madrid in 36 h. 50 m. The morning train reaches Irun in 21J h., and Madrid in 46 J h. Fares — 1st, 71. 7s. Qd. (sleeping berth 21. 5s. extra); 2nd, 51. 11s. ; 3rd, 31 15s. 30 kilos (66 lbs. Eng.) of luggage free. Overweight is charged 5 centimos of real for 10 5 1 loute 1. — Bayonne — St -Jean de Luz . Tlie Castiles. kilos by kilometre. Buffet at Miranda del Ebro ; supper very fair. A system of Circular Journeys has been established, which start from Paris, Iran, Perpignan, Bordeaux, and Bayonne, at which stations the tickets — first and second class — can be obtained. The traveller is allowed to stop as long as he likes at the intermediate stations. 9 itineraries are given; the 1st and shortest is from Xrun to Madrid and Toledo, returning by Zaragoza and Pamplona. Fare, 4Z. 25 days are allowed for this journey. The ninth and longest itine- rary includes, besides the towns on the northern line to Madrid, Toledo, Badajoz, Lisbon, Cordoba, Seville, Valencia, Barcelona, Zaragoza, and Pamplona. Fare 11Z. 10s. 65 days are granted. The economy in railway fares gained by the Circular Tickets is considerable ; it saves much trouble in taking tickets on the road ; it also enables travellers who have little luggage to stop on the spur of the moment, wherever they like. On the right bank of the Adour at St. Esprit is Bayonne (Stat.). Inns: Hotel de St.-Etienne, in the Place d’Armes, best ; H. St. Martin, good, 10 francs a day ; H. des Ambassadeurs. British Consul , Captain Graham. Bankers: J. Reginald Graham, Place d’Armes (correspondent of Messrs. Coutts and Co.); F. de Fondclair et Fils. Travellers are advised to obtain a supply of Spanish money at Bayonne or Irun. The gold monedas of 100 rs. (value 20s.) are the most convenient coin. Bayonne — Bay-o-na, “ the good port” (Pop. 27,416) — is situated on the rivers Nive and Adour. Its strong citadel , fortified by Vauban, was the key of Soult’s position in 1814, and the scene of one of the last conflicts between the French and English forces. In the old Castle opposite the Prefecture, Catherine de Medici met the Spaniard Alva (1568), when they planned the massacre of St. Bartholo- mew. Visit the Gothic Cathedral. It was built by the English in 1140. The interior is fine; it was restored by Viollet-le - Due. Its Cloisters are amongst the largest in France. Visit also the English Cemetery : it contains the graves of the gallant officers and men of the 2nd Life Guards, who lost their lives during the siege by the English forces, under Wellington in 1814. Les Alices Marines, a promenade along the 1. bank of the river Adour, is pleasant and shady Here is the stat. of a short direct rly. to the water- ing-place of Biarritz (see below), 5 m. S. of Bayonne: frequent trains in 15 min. A Military Band plays on the Place d’Armes on Thursday and Sun- day evenings. [- Steamers occasionally to Bilbao, Santander, and San Sebastian. Railway. — Passengers should register their luggage to Madrid. The rly. upon leaving Bayonne crosses the Adour and the Miv© by two iron bridges. Obs. to the 1. the ruins of Chateau Marrac, built in 1707 by Maria of Neuberg, Queen of Charles II. of Spain. It was subsequently the prison of Charles IV., and afterwards a residence of Buonaparte (1808), who here embraced his decoyed guest Fer- dinand VII., and then sent him from his table to a dungeon. To the rt. is the little lake of Brindos, 6 m. Biarritz Stat. Pop. 5507. Inns: H. Garderes ; Grand Hotel ; H. de France ; H. de Paris ; H. d’Angle- terre.] The country is hilly the whole way to the frontier. 3f m. Guethary Stat. Pop. 613. A little sea-bathing village. 4| m. St. -Jean de Luz Stat. ( Inns : H. de la Plage ; H. d’Angleterre, — both good ; Hotel de France ; H. de la Poste.) . 4083. Here in the Ch. of St.-Jean Baptiste (June 9, 1660) Louis XIV. of France was married to Maria Theresa, daughter of Philip IV. of Spain. The Nivelle is now crossed ; to the I. is the suburb of Ciboure. Obs, to 6 Sect. I. Boute 1 . —Hendaye — Fuenterrabia . the 1. the ancient manorial residence of Urtubie, where, in 1462, Louis XI. mot the kings of Castile and Aragon. 7J m. Hendaye Stat. French frontier (good Buffet). Custom-house (change trains ). ( Inns : Grand Hotel ;* H. Imatz, 7 to 9 fr. ; Hotel de France ; Hotel de Legarralde, clean and mo- derate, 8 francs.) Pop. 1460. A charming bathing town ; has exten- sive brandy distilleries. A pleasant walk of f m., with dis- tant views of the Pyrenees, takes us to Behobie, the last French village on the old post road from Bayonne to Madrid. Here the Bidasoa, the boun- dary between Fiance and Spain, is crossed by a wooden bridge. Notice a small unpretending island in the bed of the river, just below the bridge, called I’ile de la Conference. On this neutral ground Louis XI. of France and Enrique IY. of Spain met to negotiate the marriage of the Duke of Guienne (1463). Here the exchange took place (in 1525) of Francis I. (then a prisoner of Charles Y. j for his two sons, who remained as hostages. Here also the treaty of the Pyrenees was arranged between Cardinal Mazarin and Don Luis de Haro (1660). Oppo- site the Spanish end of the bridge is the hill of San Marcial, where, Aug. 30, 1813, the Spaniards (12,000 strong) under Freire, but commanded on this occasion by the Duke in person, de- feated the French (18,000 strong) under Beille. The railway crosses the Bidasoa by a handsome iron bridge, m. below the roadway bridge, and the first Spanish town is reached at 2 m. Xrun Stat. Madrid time, 24 min. slower than Paris, is kept here and on all Spanish railways. Good buffet at the station. Omnibus with luggage to town, 4 rs. ( Inn : Fonda de Arrupe, good and clean, 30 rs. a day ; carriages can be hired for ex- cursions.) Pop. 8519. Casino, Post- office, and Cafe Suizo in C. de Jesus. Yisit the Ch. of Huestra Senora del Juncal, built in the Benaissance style; the characteristic lofty overladen altar-piece (retablo) should be no- ticed, also 2 tombs, one of Admiral Pedro de Zubiaur, anil the other of Astigar. A tolerable walker will be repaid by ascending the hill behind the town to the chapel of Guadalupe, and going thence either up the ridge to the 1., or along the rt. to Cape Figuier, where, in addition to a fine view, there is a curious ruin with an interesting in- scription, dating from the time of Philip II., 1598. Travellers washing to visit this part of the Spanish frontier, and not caring to stay at a Spanish Inn, would do w 2 * * * * 7 ell to spend a few days at Hendaye, and make excursions thence. Excursion to Fuenterrabia, 2 m. from Irun, at the mouth of the Bidasoa. Pop. 3515. Fre- quent omnibuses, 2 rs. Itis a thoroughly old Spanish town, full of picturesque character, fallen ramparts, and grand houses, half ruined ; celebrated by Milton in connection w 7 ith “ the do- lorous rout” of Roncesvalles, which is 40 m. distant. In former times it w 7 as a strong frontier fortress ; here the Prince de Conde was repulsed, 1638. The river widens below the bridge into a tidal Ho or estuary. Ascend to the roof of a dilapidated Casa Solar (fee 1 r.) on tbe E. side of the Plaza over- looking the river, whence the view is magnificent. The horseman or pedestrian may ascend to the chapel of Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, at the N.E. extremity of the Jaiz-quibel range, proceed along its summit, and at its W. extremity descend into Pasajes by the English cemetery. The fine seaward views of the Bay of Biscay, and inland ones of the Pyrenees, will well repay this 10 m. excursion. At this embouchure the Duke effected the passage of the Bidasoa, October 8, 1813, one of the most daring exploits of military genius, in the teeth of the French army occupy- ing strongly fortified positions all along the rt. bank. The bridges were broken down and every known ford was commanded by cannon, leaving The Castiles. 'Route 1 . — San Sebastian . 7 Sonit in security from an attack save in the upper course of the river. The Duke, however, had ascertained from some Basque fishermen the Existence of a ford close to the sea, nearly oppo- site Fuenterrabia, practicable only for 3 or 4 hours at neap tides, but at other times covered with 16 ft. of water. Awaiting the proper day and hour, he masked his columns unseen behind the hills on the 1. bank during the night, and by sunrise, after a heavy thunderstorm, the British troops were seen to emerge 7 columns at once on a line of 5 miles, the lowest winding like serpents across the wet sands. The opposite heights were speedily gained, and the French driven before them from one redoubt after another, turning the French position, while the assault higher up the river ended in the capture of the Great Rhune moun- tain. The tents were left standing in the British camp to avoid giving sus- picion, and Boult was entirely taken by surprise. 6 m. Renteria Stat. Pop. 2884. Obs. to the 1. extensive linen manufactories. If m. Pasajes Stat. Pop. 1375. The pretty landlocked harbour to the rt. has all the appearance of an inland lake. A small port has been con- structed here at the expense of a private company. Opposite, the fort of San Marcos has been built to defend it. An excellent china manufacture has been established there. It is entered from the sea through a narrow cleft in a high hill, guarded by a castle. A portion of the town remained long in ruins from the Carlist bombardment. The Eng. Cemetery is enclosed by walls behind the town . The drive to San Sebastian is very pleasant, 4 m. San Sebastian Stat., J m. outside the town, on the rt. bank of the IJrumea, which is crossed by a handsome stone bridge. Omnibus to hotel, with luggage, 4 rs. (Inns: Fonda Ezcurra, well situated, near the bridge on the Alameda Nueva, highly recommended ; French cuisine, 26 rs. a day; higher during the bathing season from June 1 to Sept. 30 : — F. de Xnglaterra, good ; F. de Londres. Cafes : Cafe Oteiza, opposite the sea- shore ; de la Marina, in the Boulevard ; Cafe Suizo, Plaza Vieja. IL B. M. Vice-Consul, Don J. de Brunet. U.S.A. Consular Agent , J. M. Brunet, Esq. Medical man , Don Jose Juan Sagas- tume, Calle del Poro, speaks French. San Sebastian (Pop. 21,670) is the capital of the province of Guipuzcoa and was once a strong fortress. Its ramparts are now demolished, and broad handsome streets at right angles have been built on the site. The town is the most fashionable sea-bathing resort in Spain, and is frequented by the best society of Madrid. The ch. of Santa Maria is a fine building of the 17th century; the chapels and altars are magnificent. The Gothic ch. of San Vicente is well worth visiting ; the Betablo is very fine. There is also the old Gothic convent of San Telmo, with a jpatio in the Renaissance style ; it is now used as a Parque de Artilleria. In the splendid Casino gambling is allowed, and during the summer balls and concerts are frequently given. Comfortable lodging-houses abound. The Plaza de la Constitucion is sur- rounded by arcades. There are 2 theatres. The town, charmingly situated, oc- cupies the land side of a picturesque round boss of rock, surrounded by the sea, except where an isthmus connects it with the shore. The E. side of this isthmus is washed by the river Urumea, and the side forms a very pretty bay, in which is a small harbour where alone vessels can anchor in safety Here are bathing-machines ; and Bath Establecimiento, called “ La Perla del Oceano.” The hill (called Monte Orgullo) is 492 ft. high, and is crowned by a castle (la Mota). At the back of the hill facing the Bay of Biscay are the graves of many British officers who fell in the siege and Peninsular War. The walk round the hill is exceedingly pretty. The lane leading to it is at 8 Route 1 . — San Sebastian . Sect. I. Plan of San Sebastian and the Bat The Castiles. 9 Boute 1 . — San Sebastian: Siege * the left of the fine church. The view from the summit is very fine. San Sebastian was burned at the fearful assault of August 31, 1813, when the English forces captured it from the 3000 French veterans of Gen. Rey. In July, 1813, after the battle of Vitoria, Wellington, having shifted his base to Santander, determined to take San Sebastian, in order to secure his left in his further advance. The town stands on a peninsula between the port and the River Urumea. The defences consisted of a curtain across the peninsula 350 yds. long, termi- nating by a half-bastion on each flank, with a horn work, whose face was about 300 yds. in front of it, and the citadel on Monte Orgullo in rear. The French occupied, as an advanced work, the fortified convent of San Bartolome, behind which were the ruined houses of the suburb of San Martin, and a circular redoubt of casks on the main road. The outline of the homwork seems to be indicated in the line of streets of the new town. From the half- bastions to Monte Orgullo walls covered the town. The wall on the E. side was all exposed at low tide, and so could be easily reached from the low rocky hills (Los Chofres) on the rt. bank of the river. Santa Clara, the small island at the entrance to the harbour, assisted the defence on the rt. Monte Orgullo was covered with batteries, the largest being the Mira- dor, at the foot of the hill, and flank- ing the E. wall of the fortifications. On its summit is the citadel of La Mota. The garrison consisted of 3000 men. General Graham arrived on the 9th of July with the besieging army of 10,000 men. The water, which was brought to the town by an aqueduct, was cut off in an early part of the siege. Provisions and reinforcements con- tinued to arrive from France by sea during the siege, owing to the in- efficiency of the investment on the seaward. An attack was conducted against the front, across the peninsula, and two breaches were also made in the wall facing the river, one about 100 yds. north of the high curtain, and another 150 yds. further north, by batteries on Los Chofres, exactly as had been done by Marshal Berwick in 1719. San Bartolome and San Martin were taken on the 17th of July ; a battery was constructed on the abandoned works of the French. On the 18 th guns were dragged up Monte Olia (the high mountain on the rt. bank of the river) to oppose the batteries of the Mirador and San Telmo, and to assist the batteries at Los Chofres in making the breach. The breach was made practicable on the 23rd of July, but the assault was delayed on account of a fire in the houses near it, which seemed as if it would prevent the advance of the as- sailants after carrying the breach. In making a parallel against the land front the empty aqueduct was laid bare, and Lieut. Reid, R.E., crept up the drain, and, finding it ended in the counterscarp of the hornwork, a mine was laid in it to blow the counter- scarp in. The mine was sprung on the morn- ing of the 25th, and an assault made against the hornwork and the main breach ; at t lie same time, at low water, 2000 men advanced along the bed of the river, of which they had to traverse 300 yds. The rocks were large and slippery, and water standing in pools. On account of these diffi- culties the men arrived at the breach much disordered, and after many attempts to bear up against the gall- ing fire from the flanks and from the parapets, which were still entire, were forced to retire on account of the rising tide with much loss, leaving Lieut., afterwards Sir Harry Jones, R.E., a prisoner. A number of the allies were killed by the batteries at Los Chofres, which were ordered to continue their fire to keep down that of the defenders by firing over the heads of the attack- ing columns. The English lost in this affair 400 men. The French lost only 18 killed and 40 wounded. On the 26th of August the active operations begai* 10 Sect. I. Route 1 . — San Sebastian: Excursions. again. Oil the 27th the island of Santa Clara was taken, and a siege train arrived from England, bringing, however, only sufficient ammunition for one day's firing. On the 31st of August a fresh assault was made. This time the troops had only 180 yds. to march along the river bed, and the rocks were drier and less slippery. The flanking and musketry defences had also been subdued. The troops included on this occasion men from the other divisions of the army, called in as volunteers “to show the troops how to mount a breach. ’ A mine killed some of the assailants, and retrenchments to the breach made the capture very difficult. Two hours’ exertions produced no effect, nor did reinforcements, which arrived from the right side of the Ururnea. All that the courage of the officers could do was done, and the men rushed up the breaches, only to be slaughtered on gaining the summit. At length the volunteers, burning to be at the front, rushed from the trenches against the points of attack, carrying those in front of them up the breaches again, adding to the awful confusion. The situation seemed desperate, when the batteries on Los Chofres were ordered to fire over the assailants’ heads, and concentrated their efforts on the curtain; this dismounted all the guns, and led to an explosion of the powder, &c., distributed on the land front, and a panic among the defenders. Of this the besiegers took advantage, and at last burst into the town, which was retrenched at every point. The gallant governor now re- tired into the castle of La Mota, and left the town to the mercy of the British soldiers, who, on this occasion, committed lamentable acts of lust and cruelty. The allies lost 500 killed, and 1500 wounded. Among the for- mer was Sir Bichard Fletcher, the commanding engineer, who, with others, lies buried on the N. side of the Castle Bock. On the 9th of September the humane and gallant governor Bey, finding resistance hope- less, surrendered, and marched out with all the honours of war, his heroic little garrison reduced to one-third of their original number, and leaving 500 wounded behind. Excursions. A pleasant walk or drive may be taken on the road to Hernani to the country house belonging to the Duke of Bailen, at Ayete, the site of a sharp skirmish which brought great credit to the British Legion during the Peninsular War. Carriages may be had at St. Sebastian for excursions in the Basque Provinces at a very reasonable rate. Excursion trams run to Biarritz very frequently. Steamers to Bayonne, Bilbao, and Santander, at irregular intervals. Diligences to Zarauz, Bilbao, and Vergara. A. A walk or drive should be taken along the Madrid road, skirting the bay; and Monte Igueldo, on the W. side, ascended. This hill is 623 ft., or 130 ft. higher than Monte Orgullo, and the view from the site of the old light tower is finer. B. 15 m. W. of San Sebastian is the fashionable sea-bathing place, Zarauz ( Inn : Parador de las Dili- gencias, good), in a pretty situation, surrounded by villas of the wealthy and noble of Madrid. (See Bte. 34.) C. A pleasant drive of 4 hrs. leads to Azpeitia, a Availed town. 1 hr.’s walk thence will bring you to the Convent Seminary of Loyola, an Italian edifice, and a domed ch., built by Fontana, 1683, enclosing between them the house in which Ignatius Loyola, founder of the Jesuits, was born, 1491. A yearly pilgrimage is made to this ch. at the endof July. Here is shown the room, now turned into a chapel, in which he lay so long suffering from his wound, the place where St. Peter appeared to him, his portrait, statue, &c. (See Bte. 34.) Obs. also at Azpeitia two houses with interesting Moorish facades. Leaving San Sebastian, the rly. turns S. up the picturesque valley of the Urumea, The engineering works The Oastiies. 'Route 1. — Mernani — Vitoria . 11 tire on a very grand scale, especially the viaduct of Ormaisteguy, the great tunnel of Villareal, and many more too numerous to specify. 3 m. Hernani Stat. Pop. 3214. Here the British Legion under Sir De Lacy Evans, not being supported by the Spanish troops, was defeated Mar. 16, 1837. 13f m. Tolosa Stat. Inn : Fonda de las Diligencias. A flourishing town of 8557 lnhab. on 2 streams favouring manufactures of paper and cloth. Sta. Maria is Gothic, with a lofty groined and carved roof of stone supported by pillars of fine grained sandstone ; it is decorated with marbles of the country, Ihe outside with a portico between the towers, surmounted by a colossal statue of St. John the Baptist. Tolosa abounds in Casas Solares, houses of ancient families. 8 m. Besaixi Stat. Pop. 2100. Between this stat. and Zumarraga is the picturesque village of Ormais- tcguy (Pop. 606), with its palace of Iriarte-Erdicoa. 8 m. Zumarraga and Villarreal Stat. The two towns are separated by the river Urola. Tolerable Posadas in both. Zumarraga has 1679 lnhab., Villarreal 997 lnhab. [ Diligences ply from this to Azpeitia, 1 m. beyond which is the Santa Casa de Loyola ; — to Oestona ; mineral baths and large bath-house ; — to Mondragon, where are iron-mines ; to Eibar, where is a manu- facture of fire-arms. 18 J m. Alsasua Junct. Stat. (Good Buffet.) Pop. 2868. Here the rly. to Barcelona, via Pamplona and Zara- goza, diverges 1. 7J m. Araya Stat. Pop. 849. To the 1. are the ruins of an old castle. 4J m. Salvatierra Stat. Pop. 1592. This little town stands picturesquely near the river Zadorra on the spurs of the hills overlooking a rich plain. Its ancient walls were destroyed during the Carlist war. [To the 1. is the very ancient town of Alegria de Alava, Pop. 850. Obs. in the valley below the Hermitage of Estivariz. To the rt. of the line near the Sierra de Aria- ban obs, the ruins of the celebrated Castillo de Guevara, formerly the resi- dence of the Ladro family; it was erected in the 15th centy. on the model of the Castle of St. Angelo in Rome.] Leaving Salvatierra, the rly. tra- verses the plains of Alava to 14^ m. Vitoria Stat. Inns : Fonda de Pallares ; clean rooms, tolerable cuisine, 30 reals a day. Fonda Larrea, 7 Calle del Prado ; also clean, and 30 reals a day. F. de la Viuda de Pena, 7 Plaza de Bilbao. Cafe, Del Teatro. Casinos. La Sociedad Vitoriana : El Circulo del Recreo. Visitors ad- mitted for 14 days. Vitoria (Pop. 26,921) derives its name from the Basque Beturia , “ a height,” and bears for arms a castle supported by two lions. This busy town is the capital of the province of Alava. The town is divided into the old and new quarters ; the former, called the Cam- pillo Suso, with its mediaeval walls, dark tortuous streets, and quaint old mansions, contrasts with the modem quarter laid out in straight avenues and light arcaded plazas. Visit its Colegiata de Santa Maria, in the upper town. It dates from 1150. The Gothic arches of the three naves are fine. In the Capilla de Santiago are several finely-sculptured tombs. The Sacristia contains a Piedad. at- tributed to Murillo. The Church of San Miguel, also in the upper town, was erected in the 12th centy., and contains a Retablo by Gregorio Her- nandez, which is excellently carved. The arcaded Plaza Nueva is the winter promenade. It was built in 1791 from the designs of Justo An- j tomo de Olagaibel, after the model I of the celebrated square of Salamanca. I The staircase and portal of the Casa, 12 Sect. I. Route L — Rattle of Vitoria. Consistorial are fine. The classical facade of the Hospieio (or Hospital) was designed by a Capuchin monk, Lorenzo Jordanes, and is worthy of notice. In the convent of La Con- cepcion obs. the high altar and two curious retablos. The public Ala- medas are charming, especially la Florida and el Prado, “ where under leafy avenues the lower classes meet and dance.” The environs are deli- cious during the summer months. Battle of Vitoria, June 21. 1813. — On the evening of the 20th of June the army under Graham bivouacked on the banks of the Bayas, some 20 miles from Vitoria, while,' 10 miles down the river, Wellington had his headquarters at Subijana Nurillas. The scene of the battle will be best seen by driving from Vitoria to Nan- clares, where the train may be taken towards Madrid. A good view of the disposition of the armies may be ob- tained from a hill to the right of the road, and about a mile beyond Arinez ; here General Gazan’s centre lay. Vi- toria lies to the E.N.E., at a distance of 4 \ English miles ; and the spectator will see on the distant rig! 4 the road by which Graham advanced to Vitoria, crossing the Ladora at Abecucho ; on his left, 3 m. away, the pass of Puebla, over which Hill advanced to the attack of the French left ; and to westward are the bridges of Tres Puentes, Vil- lodas, and Nan clares, by which the allied centre approached that of the French. Below him lie, on his right, Arinez, and near the river Margarita, on his left, Subijana de Alava. The dispositions of the French on the morn- ing of the 20th were as follows : — Reille defended the French right, which covered the passage of the Ladora, where the Bilbao and Durango roads cross it by the bridge of Gamara Major and Abecucho. The left, under Gazan, at the Dronet, in reserve, dis- tant about 7 miles from Gamara, also lined the Ladora. Gazan’s right ex- tended from an isolated hill in front of Margharita to the main road, his centre covered the road, and his left occupied the rugged ground behind Subijana de Alava, and faced the Puebla defile, while a brigade under Maransin was posted on the heights of Puebla. A battery of 50 pieces of artillery was posted in front of the position the spectator occupies to de- fend the 3 bridges of Nan clares, Villo- das, and Tres Puentes. The French were 55,000 strong, and an immense quantity of waggons, etc., which ac- companied King Joseph and his court, impeded their movements, owing to their being packed on the roads of retreat. Wellington had designed that Gra- ham with 20,000 men should force Reille over the Ladora ; Hill, on the right, with 20,000 men, forcing the Puebla pass and disposing of Maran- sin’s brigade with his right, should turn and menace the French centre and left with his whole force, and secure the bridge of Nanclares ; in the centre Wellington in person was to lead the 3d, 4th, 7th, and light divisions, the great mass of the artillery, the heavy cavalry, and the Portuguese horsemen, in all 30,000 men, and fall on the French centre. The 21st broke rainy, and the move- ments of the allies from their bivouacs were screened by the weather. Hill commenced the battle on the right, and after overcoming the difficulties of the ascent of the Puebla mountains and the opposition of the enemy, poured down the mountain and won the village of Subijana de Alava in front of Gazan’s line, and maintained his position until the centre battle began on his left. Wellington brought the 4th division opposite the Nanclares bridge, and the light division opposite the bridge of Villodas, where they were screened by the rugged ground. While awaiting the arrival of the 4th and 7th divisions, a Spanish peasant in- formed him that the bridge at Tres Puentes was unguarded. Taking ad- vantage of this he pushed a force over the bridge, and called up some cavalry to assist. It was now 1 p.m., and smoke on the right told that Graham had begun his work. The 4th and 7th divisions now arrived; and the Rifle brigade, under Sir A. Barnard, 13 The Castiles. Route 1. — Nanclares — Burgos. darting across the open country, took up a position on the flanks of the French centre and the 50-gun battery. This movement enabled the remainder of the allied centre to cross the river, and the French reserve began to retire to Vitoria. Wellington in person led an attack on the hill in front of Arinez and took it. The French, caught in their movements of retreat, opened a heavy fire from their 50-gun battery, which Wellington subdued by means of guns brought across the river. Under cannonade the French retired to the hill in front of Gumecha, 3 m. from Vitoria, yet still held the village of Arinez. The riflemen of the light division attacked that village, and after hard fighting won it. The French ousted from their position on the left now began to retreat in earnest, and the allies advanced fighting ; by 6 p.m. their last defensible position, 1 m. from Vitoria, was taken from them. Meantime, Graham, on the right, after very severe fighting, had carried the bridge of Gamara, and Wellington reaching Vitoria, the park, &c., fell into his hands. The French having lost all their positions were drawn off towards Huerta in the valley of the Araquil, 30 m. from the field of battle ; this place was reached by Keille, who covered the retreat on the evening of the 22nd of June. In the battle Jourdan’s baton, a stand of colours, 143 guns, all the parks and depots from Madrid, Valladolid, and Burgos, carriages, ammunition, and treasure, and plunder of the Spanish towns and churches, fell into the hands of the allies. The French lost 6000, the allies 5200 men. The best way to see the battle-field is to take the train as far as Nanclares Stat., and to walk back across it. 7 m. Nanclares do la Oca Junct. Stat. (Pop. 533). First town in Old Cas- tile (Pop. 4099). Junction for Bilbao (Rte. 33 , for Logrono and Zaragoza (Bte. 148). Buffet ; halt 30 min. 12 J m. Miranda de Ebro Stat. Inn : Fonda de Guinea, near the station ; excellent. Visit the interest- ing Church of Ban Nicolas. Obs. the apse and corresponding internal con- struction. The doorway is also Ro- manesque — the capitals are roughly carved. The parish Church of Sta. Maria (late Gothic) may also be visited. The rly. crosses the river Ebro, and enters the grand Pass of 12 m. Pancorbo (Stat.) (Pop. 1404), thence through tunnels piercing the rock, and over bridges crossing and recrossing the ravine through which the river Oroncillo flows. In the middle of the Pass is a chapel dedi- cated to Nuestra Senora del Camino , and above (to the W.) a ruined castle where Don Roderic, the last Gothic king, is said to have seduced the beautiful but ill-omened Cava. The ruined monastery of Bugedo is near. To the W. are the ruins of the Fort of Santa Engracia. The barren and desolate plain of Old Castile is now entered ; it is tree- less and verdureless, except in spring, when a few patches of corn occur. 12 J m. Bribiesca Stat. Pop. 3626. This regularly built town is on the Oca. In the Colegiata see 2 fine retablos, [An excursion can be made to Ona (Pop. 1331) (14J m.) to the N., where is a celebrated Benedictine convent, dedicated to San Salvador. It is built near the Ebro, and its interior is an excellent example of the early Gothic style. The finely sculptured tombs and the old paintings should be noticed.] 19 m. Quintanapalla Stat. Pop. 363. Here the marriage of Charles II. of Spain was ratified, 1682. Fine distant view of Burgos and its cathedral rising out of the plain at the foot of the hill, crowned by the castle. 9j m. Burgos Stat. (Buffet.) Om- nibus to the town, with luggage, 4 rs. The river Arlanzon is crossed, and the grand old city is entered by the Puerta de Santa Maria. 14 Route 1 . — Burgos Cathedral, Sect. I, A. Capilla Mayor. B. Coro. C. Lantern. D. D. Transepts. E. E. Sacristies. F. Chapel of the Nativity. G. 14th Century Chapel. H. Chapel of San Gregorio. I. Chapel of the Constable. K. Puerta del Sarmental. L. Chapel of Santiago. M. Chapel of St. Katherine. N. Boom of the Coffer of Cid. O. Chapter Room. P. Cloisters. Q. Puerta del Sarmental. R. Chapel of the Presentation. S. Chapel of Sta. Tecla. T. Chapel of Sta. Ana. U. Chapel of San Enrique. V. Monument of Archbishop Maurice. W.W. Pulpits. X. Puerta Alta, or de la Coroneria, Y. Chapel del Santisimo Christo. Z. Archbishop’s Palace. a. Puerta Principal. b. Puerta de la Pellejeria. c. Capilla de San Juan de Sahagun, The Castiles. 15 Boute 1. — Burgos: Cathedral. Inns: The want of a really good hotel has ever been a drawback to making a lengthened sojourn. Fonda del Norte, 3 0. de Lain Calvo, out of the Plaza Mayor, dear and i udifferent. Fonda de Bafaela, 10 C. de Vitoria, opposite the cavalry barracks, fair; bargain beforehand at 30 rs. a day. Fonda Monin, 7 C. de Cantarranas, out of the Plaza Mayor, commercial and Spanish, with good table ; the chief public coach offices are attached thereto. Cafe: El Suizo, and El Iris, both on the Espolon Viejo, at the E. extremity of which the spacious new Theatre is also situated. Casino , over the Cafe Suizo. Post Office , 58 Espoion Viejo. Tele- graph Office in Casa del Cordon, Plaza de la Libertad. Paths : Banos del Recuerdo in Calle de los Vadillos, 37 Calle de la Puebla. . Carriages can be hired at the inns named above for La Cartuja or Las Huelgas ; both of which, however, are pleasant walks in fine weather of 2 m. and 1 m. respectively. Be careful to bargain beforehand. Promenades : These are laid out along the banks of the river Arlanzon, and are shaded by four rows of trees. Espolon Viejo, on city side; La Isla, on the other side, down the river (leading to Las Huelgas) ; La Quinta, with its fountain, up the river (lead- ing to La Cartuja de Miraflores). Burgos, on the Arlanzon, is an an- cient city of 31,711 Inhab., long the capital of the kingdom of Castile and Leon, though now in a state of dul- ness and decay. It possesses, as a “genuine old Gothic Castilian city,” an especial attraction for the traveller in its Cathedral, and also in its other ancient edifices and historical associa- tions. It was the residence of St. Ferdinand, of Alonso el Sabio, and the home of the Cid. The city is 2867 ft. above the sea- level. Its name is derived from the Iberian Briga, “ a fortified eminence,” which is akin to the German Burg. It bears for arms gule, a half-length figure of the king, with an orle of 16 castles or. If was first founded in 881 by Diego de Porcello, but was enlarged by Nuno Belchides, who married Sulla Bella, the fair daughter of the founder. The city was nominally subject to the Kings of Leon until the year 926, when Fruela II. treacherously mas- sacred the descendants of the founder, and the city elected Judges (or magis- trates) to govern them ; the most cele- brated of these were Nuho Rasura and Lain Calvo, who figure in old historical ballads. The first indepen- dent sovereign was Fernan Gonzalez, who assumed the title of Conde de Castilla , whose grand-daughter Nufia married Sancho el mayor of Navarre, whose son, Ferdinand I. of Castile, united (in 1067) the kingdoms of Leon and Castile by marrying Sancha, only daughter of Bermudo III., King of Leon. In 1085, Alonso VI. raised the rival city of Toledo to the rank of capital, which occasioned serious dis- putes of precedence between that city and Burgos ; these were only compro- mised in 1349, when Alonso XI. di- rected Burgos to speak first in Cortes , saying that he would answer for Toledo. The Kings of Castile by thus removing their court from Burgos de- stroyed the sources of its prosperity. Burgos has 14 parish churches, an audiencia , 4 hospitals, a foundling hospital, elegant theatre, prisons, bar- rack, &c. Visit first the magnificent Gothic Cathedral, one of the finest in Spain, whether we regard the picturesque grandeur of the general design, or the exquisite variety and richness of the minute details of ornamentation. This archiepiscopal see was founded at Oca (25 m. distant). It was removed to Burgos by Alonso VI. in 1075, who at the same time gave the site of several royal palaces upon which the present cathedral was subsequently built. It was founded by Ferdinand el Santo , in honour of his marriage with Dona Beatriz, daughter of the Duke of Suabia, the first stone having been laid on the 20th July, 1221, by the king in person, assisted by the Infante Antonio de Molina, and Bishop Mau- rice, who (an Englishman by birth) had accompanied the Princess Beatriz 16 Sect. I. Boute 1. — Burgos: Cathedral . to Burgos. The reigning sovereign, by virtue of his title of Senor de Vizcaya , was one of the canons of the chapter as at Leon and Toledo. Amongst the members of the chapter who have risen to the tiara was Ro- drigo Boria, afterwards Pope Alex- ander Y I. The Cathedral is built into the slope of a hill ; its general effect being some- what spoilt by the vicinity of mean buildings. The body of the ch. and E. end are early pointed, and mostly date from the foundation (1221) ; but the rest is composed of additions and altera- tions in later styles. The W. front, sur- mounted by 2 picturesque steeples of open work, 300 ft. high, flanking a fine rose-window, was added by the Ger- man architect John of Cologne (15tli centy.), and is crowned by spires of most delicate open stone-work, which looks so fragile that one wonders it has not been blown away in this bleak wind-blown region. It is a pity the effect should be somewhat marred by modernised doorways. Finer and quite unaltered are the fafjades of the 2 transepts with their 3 sculptured door- ways — the Puerta del Sarmental, K ; the Puerta Alta, or de la Coroneria, X ; and in an angle of the transept, towards the E., the Puerta de la Pellejeria, b , a later picturesque work. The gorgeous central lantern, an octa- gon 180 ft. high, over the crossing, surrounded by 8 light turret-spires of open work, was not completed till 1567 (Juan de Vallejo, architect). In the rear of this, at the E. end, another tower surmounts the Condestabie Chapel. The interior, 300 ft. long, 250 wide at the transept, 195 Eng. ft. high, is somewhat injured by the high Coro intruding to the extent of 4 bays into the nave, and by the huge piers raised to support the octagon. Owing to the angle of slope on which the cath. stands, the door of the N. transept is 30 ft. above the level of the pavement of the interior of the church itself, which is entered on this side by a gorgeously decorated double Staircase , more for show than U3e, de- signed by Diego de Siloe, in the rich style of the Renaissance. The Retablo of the high altar, oppo- site which hangs the banner carried by King Alfonso VIII. at the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa (see Plan, A), was designed and executed by Rodrigo and Martin de la Haya, Domingo de Berriz, and Juan de Ancheta, 1562 to 1580. It is formed of three compart- ments, and comprises the three orders. In the second compartment is the life- size image of the Virgin, made of silver in 1464. The rest of the Retablo is occupied by a number of statues and relievos, representing subjects from the Life of the Virgin, the Crucifixion, Apostles, and Saints. At the right hand of the altar are the tombs of three Infantes of Castile, who were buried there in the 14th centy. : Don Juan, son of Don Alonso el Sabio; Don Sancho, brother of Enrique II., who was prisoner in England 1367; and his wife, Dona Beatriz. Two of the tombs are hidden by the Retablo. The fine silver lamp and 6 candle- sticks, which are on the steps of the high altar, must be noticed. They were made at the beginning of the last century in. the Renais- sance styde. In the Coro (B) are 103 stalls exqui- sitely carved in walnut and box in Re- naissance style, carved with subjects from Old and New Testaments by Vigarni, 1499-1512. The higher part above the Bishop's chair, and the lower seats, are more modern and by a dif- ferent hand. Under the first lectern is a monument with the effigy of Bp. Maurice, the founder, 13th centy. It is composed of wood covered with metal plates, and most interesting. In the aisle behind the high altar obs. five pieces of sculpture in high relief : 1, Agony in Garden ; 2, Our Lord bearing the Cross; 3, Crucifixion; 4, Descent ; and 5, Resurrection — three of them by Felipe de Vigarni or Ber- gona, 1499, and the two others, the Agony and Resurrection, by P. Alonso de los Rf's, 1679. The 14 chapels which surround the ch. are all distinguished by some peculiar beauty of construction, orna- mentation, &c. Many of these chapels are under the patronage of different The Castiles. Boute 1.— Burgos : Chapels, 17 private families. Ask for the Custode (Garzon). He will open, the chapels, with the exception of that of the Condestable, which is under the charge of a special sacristan. At the E. end is the gorgeous Chapel of the Condestable (I), the grandest of them all, built for Don Pedro Fernan- dez de Yelasco, hereditary Constable of Castile, by John de Cologne, 1487. It is an octagon in plan — very lofty ; the roof displaying radiating groining and elaborate tracery iu its vaulting, having the effect of lace-work. Obs. the finely-executed sculptured groups and reliefs under the entrance archway and in the arched recesses of the walls; stone- bowers of intricate foliage and tracery alternating with armorial shields hung awry. The principal Retablo is ela- borately carved. On each side of the chapel are two smaller ones, full of fine carvings, The one to the rt. is Gothic, that to the 1. of the Renais- sance period. Close to this is an in- teresting picture of the 15th centy., with inscriptions in Dutch. Obs. also the superbly sculptured tombs of the Constable and his wife. The details of the effigies are exquisitely rendered. The lady is lying at full length on a richly embroidered cushion, with her rather diminutive lap-do^ at her feet ; the Constable, Viceroy of Castile, re- poses in his armour by her side. To the rt. on entering there is a very good Flemish triptych — the Virgin and Child, surrounded by angels ; at the sides, St. Simon and the Nativity. This picture belongs, undoubtedly, to the foundation. Enter the small vestry of the chapel, which contains the fol- lowing interesting objects : — A Retablo of Renaissance work — the faces of the figures are very good ; a very fine Magdalen, attributed to Leonardo da Vinci, probably by Luini a splendid silver-gilt cross, decorated with ena- mel, and painted ivory medallions of scriptural subjects: a silver Navete for holding incense; two silver-gilt jugs ; a Porta Pax ; silver dish ; very remarkable gold chalice, studded with pearls and precious stones ; and a small [Spain, 1882.] ivory triptych. The vestments are also first-rate and worth seeing. The lofty reja (iron railing), the mas- terpiece of Cristobal Andino, 1523, is considered to be one of the best speci- mens of Renaissance iron- work known. The chapel of Santiago (L), which is the largest of them all, contains the monument of Abbot J. O. de Velasco (ob. 1557) : and the tombs of Bp. Juan de Villacruces, 1463; Bp. Juan Cabeza de Vaea, and his brother Don Pedro Cabeza de Vaca (literally, “ cow’s head”). In the chapel of San Enrique (U) is the monument of Archbp. Peralta, the founder (ob. 1679). The kneeling effigy is of bronze ; the tomb itself is of marble. In the upper part of the wall an old sepulchre may be seen, 13th- centy. work, which is said to contain the remains of the first Bishops when the see existed at Oca. In the chapel of San Juan de Saha- gun there are six interesting paintings on panel of the end of the 15th centy., which represent subjects from the Passion of our Lord. They are curious specimens of the early Spanish school. Another picture there, the Mas3 of St. Gregory, is worth looking at by art students. This chapel also contains the much-venerated figure of the Virgin de Oca, and a large num- ber of old reliquaries of silver, ivory, &c. ; and the shrine of Beato Lesmes. Chapel of La Presentacion (R), founded by Canon Lerma, 1519, con- tains his tomb with effigy. Obs. the admirable moulding of tire statue and details of the sepulchre ; and also the tomb of Canon Jacobo de Bilbao. This chapel, built in the Gothic and Re- naissance styles, is one of the finest in the cathedral. The painting of the Virgin and Child is said by some to be by Michael Angelo, but is more pro- bably by Sebastian del Piornbo. It was the gift of a Florentine, Morri, and is a work of great merit. Chapel del Santisimo Christo (Y), first on entering the cath. by the W. door on rt., so called from an ancient image which has been an object of great veneration for more than six c 18 Sect. I. Route 1. — Burgos: centuries. It is supposed to have come from the East, and to have been carved there by Nicodemus. The image is flexible, and covered with painted butf leather. It is interesting as a work of art of the Middle Ages.* The chapel of Santa Ana (T) has the finest retablo of painted wood in Ihe cathedra], covered with sculptures and ornamentation of the end of the 15th centy. The genealogy of the Virgin is represented in the lower part, and in the centre compartment St. Joachim and St. Anne. In the centre of this chapel is a fine statue of Bishop Acuna, and against the wall near the entrance door the Gothic monument of Dr. Fernando Diez (ob. 1492), one of the best in the ca- thedral. This chapel, which belongs to the Duke of Abrantes, has been lately restored, in a most unsatis- factory manner. The chapel of Santa Isabel must be visited ; it is the first to the left entering by the Puerta del Sarmental. In the centre is the splendid tomb of the great Bishop Alonso de Cartagena, an admirable work of the 15th centy. The Cloisters (P) of 2 storeys are very beautiful, 14th centy. The sculp- tures and ornamentation of the en- trance doorway are excellent work of the end of the 15th centy., and repre- sent the Baptism of our Lord, En- trance into Jerusalem, Descent into Hell, and figures of Prophets. Obs. the interesting life-size statues be- tween the arches in the cloisters. Those of Abraham and St. James, on each side of the old sacristy, are of the 13th centy. Look at the statues of St. Ferdinand, holding a ring in his hand, and his queen, D na * Beatriz. The tradition is, that they were placed there in remembrance of their marriage at Burgos. Inside one of the arches, to the right of the entrance doorway, is a good triptych, representing the Ado- ration of the Magi. The chapel, dedicated to St. Jerome, in the first * Bead, in Rozmittal’s ‘ Travels in Spain in 1465/ Stuttgard, 1844, the curious account of this image. Cloisters; Castle . of the angles which look to the inner court, has a retablo of the Renaissance period. From the cloister you enter the Old Sacristy. The carvings over the door- way represent the Descent from the Cross. This room must be well exa- mined in its architectural details. The groups of sculptures where the arches spring from, represent hunting subjects. Ask to see the collection of embroidered vestments brought from Bale, in the 15th centy., by Bishop Alonso de Cartagena. In another chamber ( N ) is preserved El Cofre del Old, a trunk clamped with iron and now attached to the walls, which the Cid filled with sand, and then pledged to the Jews as full of gold, for a loan of 600 marks, which he afterwards honestly repaid. Adjoining this is the Chapter-house, with flat mosaic wood ceiling of Mor- esque character (parqueterie), coloured with gilt pendants. Here is a well- painted Crucifixion, by Matias Cerezo. Ascend one of the towers ; fine views of the city, with the convents of Mira- flores and Las Huelgas, to the rt. and 1. (when looking down upon the liver). Turning to the rt., up the hill, in the Call© Alta, is the arch erected by Philip II. in honour of Fernan Gon- zalez. Near this, by the entrance to the cemetery, is the site of the house where the Cid was born, 1026, marked by a pillar and 2 obelisks. * The house itself was removed in 1771. The Cid died at Valencia in 1099. The Castle lias a fine Moorish gate- way ; it was the residence of the early kings and counts of Castile. It was built by Belchides (about the year 890). Here, in 959, Count Fernan Gonzalez brought Garcia, King of Navarre, a prisoner, and confined him for thirteen months. Here Alfonso VI. of Leon was also imprisoned by the Cid. In 1270 San Fernando here received Santa Casilda, daughter of the Moorish king of Toledo, who was converted to Christianity. In it was The Castiles. 19 Boute 1 . — Siege of Burgos. celebrated the bridal of the Cid, and of Edward I. of England with Eleanor of Castile ; here Pedro the Cruel was born. The ruins of the castle (destroyed by fire, 1736) were used by the French in the erection of fortifica- tions. Siege of Burgos, 1812. “ Burgos was the depot for the army of Portugal, and held the reserve stores for that portion of the French forces. The garrison consisted of 1800 infantry, besides gunners, com- manded by Dubreton. Wellington, ap- proached it, with a view of removing this obstacle to his advance into France, for it commanded the main road. His force consisted of 32,000 men : the castle was invested by 12,000, the remainder forming a cover- ing force. The works, still visible, enclosed the rugged hill between which and the river the city is situ- ated. An old wall, with a new parapet and flanks, formed the first line of defence; a kind of field in- trenchment within the first line the second ; the third line, similarly con- structed, contained the two elevated points on which now stand respectively the ruins of the White Convent, which was intrenched, and the keep of the castle, which was surmounted by the Napoleon Battery. This last com- manded the S., E. and W., while on the N. was a horn work 300 yards distant from the castle : 9 heavy guns, 11 field-pieces, and 6 mortars formed the armament. The works were in good condition, but water and pro- visions were scarce. The means for attack were utterly inadequate, con- sisting only of 3 18-pounder guns and 5 24-pounder howitzers, with a small supply of ammunition and 900 in- trenching tools. On the 19th of Sep- tember, 1812, the siege was begun, and the hornwork captured by assault. Guns were mounted in it by the besiegers, and fire from them opened on the 22nd. On the same night an attack by escalade was attempted against the first line of defence ; this failed completely, and those engaged in it suffered heavy loss. Meantime the saps were being pushed forward against the work, but the heavy rain which fell washed the earth into the trenches, and the garrison picked many men off from a work raised on the right of their defences, which flanked the advance. On the 27th an assault was made from the saps, which had been pushed to within 20 yards of the walls. This assault failed because the mine constructed to blow in the escarp did not blow down enough to allow of a footing for the assaulting column on its ruins. However, the guns being brought from the hornwork close to the walls, a breach was commenced, but the French fire was so heavy that they were withdrawn to their original position. On the 2nd of October a double assault was ordered, one column to attack at a breach to be formed by the explosion of a new mine to the right of the old breach, and the second at the latter. This attack was successful, and lodgments were formed in the breaches. On the 5th of October the French made a sortie, and carried off the tools of the party working at the old breach and destroyed the lodgments. These were, however, repaired by the besiegers, and a mine was begun under the church of San Homan at the S.E. of the fortress. On the 18th of October a fifth assault was ordered ; the mine under the San Roman was exploded ; the attacking columns rushed in, but, meeting a heavy resistance, and being unsupported from the rear, were forced back and lost also the lodgments on the breach. Reinforcements for the French being now at hand, Welling- ton raised the siege and began his retreat on Madrid. Having to cross the bridge under fire from the castle, he muffled the wheels of his carriages with straw and crossed at night ; the garrison were aroused by the gallop- ing of some Spanish horsemen over the bridge and fired on the rear of the retreating army. The failure of the siege may be considered due to the want of means and time, but the c 2 20 Sect. I. Route 1. — Burgos: Churches; Town-hctlL greatest praise is due to Dubreton for his skilful and daring defence.” — E. B. The fortifications were subsequently destroyed by the French under Reille (June 14, 1813), upon the report that Wellington was again marching to besiege the place. This castle, which had before baffled the Duke, had been left unrepaired and unprovisioned by the French, in spite of the express orders of Buonaparte; and Wellington reached it without obstacle, to the Emperor's infinite surprise and indig- nation. Churches . — Proceeding along the Calle del Cuadro from the W. facade of the Cathedral, we reach the Ch. of Santa Agueda (or Gadea), pure early Gothic, one of the Iglesias juraderas (i.e. of purgation by adjuration). The Cid compelled Alonso YI. to purge himself by an oath from the charge of assassinating his brother. The oath was taken upon an iron lock, which is still affixed to the wall. At the N.W. angle of the Cath. is St. Nicolas (date 1505), chiefly remarkable for a richly-carved stone Retablo , a refined work of art repre- senting events of the Saint’s life, the Trinity, the Holy Father, St. Michael, and a number of exquisite small figures in the Flemish style : it is on no ac- count to be passed by. St. Luke is re- presented painting at an easel. Oppo- site the entrance there is a retablo with 8 interesting early Spanish pictures. Several tombs in the church are also worth looking at. Still higher, under the Castle, is San Esteban (date 1280-1350). It has a good W. doorway with sculpture, a Gothic gallery at W. end, rose- windows and a very finely-carved pulpit. The balustrades of the upper choir are very effective. Notice also the Renaissance tombs resting against the pilasters at the foot of the church : the arch and all the ornamentation of the chapel at the left of the door of the sacristy. The interior of the chapel, which contains the font, is worth notice, and the different sepulchres let into the walls — IGth-centy. work. In this sacristy may be seen a very remarkable early picture, the Last Supper: round the table-cloth runs a Cufic inscription. Although the artist had evidently seen Leonardo’s masterpiece, this picture is by a Spaniard. Walk through the Gothic cloisters. Leaving the church from this side, the view is very fine. The church suffered much from the siege in 1812. San Gil, to the extreme N. of the city, is a cross church of 14th centy., with late additions. See 2 rich retablos in N. and S. side chapels. They are Gothic sculptures of the end of the 15th centy. Obs. the details, the lace-work of the canopies and ornamentation, which is most admir- able. The large chapel of the Nativi- dad, to the 1. of entrance door, is very good, and the retablo fine. Renais- sance sculpture of the beginning of the 16th centy. At the rt. there is a Flemish picture, which represents the Descent from the Cross, with the Virgin, St. John, and Mary Magda- len. The Iron Pulpit is very elegant ; it belongs to the 15th centy., and is covered with delicate ornamentation. This church contains a great number of tombs, most of which are interesting. The grand gateway of Sta. Maria, attached to the old city walls, facing the river, shows the original massive work of the 15th century in the rear, but its front is semi-Italian, raised by Charles Y. and decorated with statues of the Cid, Fernan Gonzalez, Count Diego Porcello, Nuno, Rasura, Lain Cal vo, and other Burgalese worthies, and is flankedby bartizan turrets. In the Town Hall (Casa del Ayun- tamiento) are preserved the bones of the Cid , removed hither 1842 from San Pedro de Cardena, and placed in a glazed case of walnut-wood, in which you behold his skeleton, skull, a bottle full of his dust, and the skeleton, without skull, of his faithful Ximena. The room is fitted up with modern upholstery as a chapel. In the back streets, Calle Lorenzo, The Castiles. 21 Route 1. — Burgos: Environs . Avellanos, and San Juan, are some houses of the 16th centy. There are still a few ancient man- sions in Burgos, the most interesting of which are the following, viz. : — La Casa del Cordon, on the Plaza de la Libertad, now the residence of the Captain-General. It derives its name from the Cordon or Order of the Teu- tonic Knights, connecting the arms of Mendoza Velasco carved on its front, and is a rich specimen of domes- tic Gothic architecture, having been erected by the Condestable Velasco, whose monumental chapel forms a chief feature in the Cathedral: its front and courtyard is in the latest style of Gothic. Casa de Miranda, in Calle de la Calera ; with noble patio and elegant fluted pillars. Casa de Angulo, close to the former palace. Obs. its fine portal. The Casa del Conde Villarieso, in the Calle de los Avellanos, is a building of the 10th centy., where the Constable Alvaro de Luna was imprisoned. Environs. a. A pleasant walk of 1 m. down the Paseo de la Isla, and across the Arlan- zon, brings us to the Convent of Las Huelgas (the pleasure-ground), belong- ing to the Cistercian order. The tra- veller should visit it betimes, for the ch. is closed after 12 o’clock noon. It was founded (1187) by Alonso VIII., to expiate his sins, and to gratify the wish of his queen, Eleanor, daughter of our Henry II. It is still occupied as a nunnery ; male visitors may enter the transepts of the church : an iron grating divides the crossing from the nave, which is occupied by the nuns. A forlorn village occupies part of the enclosure. The ch. and its cloister are fine examples of simple early pointed Gothic, erected 1279 by King Ferdinand III., somewhat severe and English in character, and “ entirely free from any Moorish influence.” The nave, chapter-house, and nuns’ cloister (with round arched, Roman- ized arcades), are not accessible, ex- cept sometimes to ladies. This Chapel Royal was the burial-place of the early kings of Spain : here are the tombs of the founders, and of Alfonso VII., Alfonso VIII., his queen Leonora, Al- fonso X. (El Sabio ), although his body is at Seville, Enrique I., and other regal personages. Various kings of Castile were knighted here, after performing their nocturnal vigil before the altar, amongst whom were St. Ferdinand and Alonso XI. Here was also knighted (in 1254) our Edward I., by Alonso el Sabio. No convent ever had more extraordinary privileges. The abbess was a princess-palatine, and inferior in dignity to no one but the queen. She was mitred, and pos- sessed the rights of a “ senora de liorca y cuehillo ” (i.e. with rights of life and death). She was also styled “ Por la gracia de Dios.” The nuns must all belong to the nobility, and bring a dowry ; they appear daily iu their magnificently carved stalls during the high mass. Amongst the nuns who have here taken the veil were Berenguela, daughter of St. Ferdinand, Maria of Aragon, aunt to Charles V., and other royal personages. In the Capilla de Santiago is preserved the articulated statue of Santiago which performed the ceremony of knighthood, and also on some occasions placed the crown on the h* ads of monarchs. In the nuns’ choir is kept the highly interesting embroidered banner, which was taken from the Moors at the victory of the Navas de Tolosa.* The splendid red violet tapestries, which hang inside the nuns' choir, are very fine. These and the green ones, in the outer church, woven in the same manner with gold, were the gift of Philip le Bel, early 16th centy. In the outer cloister, near the entrance to the church, are 4 tombs of the 13th and 14th cents. Those at the rt. are very remarkable. Obs. the one in the form of a temple, with small figures running round the lower part. The tower of the church, witli storks’ nests, is most picturesque. Continuing the walk beyond Las Huelgas is the Hospital del Rey, founded for poor pilgrims. Over the entrance is a * See Riano’s ' Spanish Industrial Arts,’ pub- lished by the South Kensington Museum. 22 Sect. I. Route 1. — Burgos: Environs . richly coroneted ornamental work with niches, shields, &c., and a finely-carved oak door ; in the upper part is repre- sented Adam and Eve ; in the lower, St. Michael, St. James, with groups of pilgrims and sick poor. The inside of the church is uninteresting. Opposite to it there is a good fa9ade of the Eenaissance period. b. On no account omit to visit the Cartuja de Miraflores, open 8-12, 3-6. It is another pleasant walk or drive of 2 m. from the city. Cross the Arlan- zon, and ascend the 1. hank by the shady Paseo de la Quinta. Traversing the rly. and ascending under an ancient archway the convent lies before us. The ch. was erected on the site of the palace of Enrique III., by his son Juan II., in 1141, who in 1442 granted the estate to the Carthusian order. It was ac- cidentally burnt in 1452, but was re- stored by Enrique IV., and finished in 1448, by Queen Isabel the Catholic, as a monument to her parents. The church, as usual in Carthusian con- vents, is divided into three portions — the outer one for the people, the middle one for the lay monks, and the inner- most one for the Sacerdotes. It was designed by Juan de Colonia, and at his death his sons were employed to finish it. The interior consists of 5 bays, is 63 ft. high, 135 long, and ends in an apse. In the centre is the Coro, sur- rounded by screens, which with those in the E. are composed of elaborate carvings canopied over. On entering, the eye is arrested by the alabaster monument of Don Juan II. and his wife Isabel of Portugal, one of the most elaborate specimens of rich and varied sculpture in Europe. Their recumbent effigies in robes of state are admirably executed. The tomb is octagonal in shape : at the corners 16 lions sup- port the royal arms, and the sides intervening are filled with subjects and figures from the New Testament in the finest style of art. In a re- cessed arch, entwined with vine foliage like a fringe of lace, is the very impressive kneeling figure of their son the Infante Alonso, d. 1470. These superb monuments are the masterpieces of Gil de Siloe, sculptor, 1489-93. Obs. the Retablo of the High Altar, a most elaborate composition by the same sculptor and Diego de la Cruz, of events from the life of our Saviour, with a Eosary and Crucifixion. Obs. at the foot of the retablo, on either side, the kneeling effigies of the king and queen. At the rt. is a fine Gothic carved seat., where the priest sat during the sermon. The stained-glass windows are interesting. In the sacristy there is a good paint- ing on panel, the Annunciation of the Virgin. Visit the chapel of St. Bruno to the 1. of the central nave : the head of the statue is good. Opposite hangs a large painting on panel, divided into three compartments, with inscriptions on the horses’ harness. It represents the- way to Calvary, the Crucifixion and Burial of our Lord. In the chapel of Mirafiores, a hideous specimen of painting, the small sculptured image of the Virgin, which is on the high altar, is worth noticing. c. San Pedro de Cardena is situated 5 m. beyond Miraflores (7 m. from Burgos) over dreary downs by a track but rarely available for wheels. This, combined with the convent having been modernised in 1736, renders it scarcely worth a visit. It is of the Benedictine order, was founded (537) by Queen Sancha, in memory of Theodoric, the son of Doha Sancha, and her husband the King of Italy, who died whilst out hunting, at the fountain of Caradigna, whence the present name. The convent was a favourite of the Cid, whose body, in accordance with his dying request, was borne upon his war-horse, Babieca , and here buried, 1099. His empty monument now stands in a small side chapel. The effigies of himself and his faithful Ximena are placed on stone pedestals. Twenty-seven monuments of the Mid- dle Ages still remain, and also some few anterior to the 15th centy.* 40| m. Torquemada Stat. Pop. 2694. * For further information consult the ‘His- toria del Templo y Catedral de Burgos/ by Martinez. Burgos, 1866 . The Castiles. 'Route 1. — Valladolid : Cathedral. Near here Cuesta’s army fled before the French, 1808. 13 m. Yenta cle Banos Junct. Stat. for Palencia, and thence to Santander (Rte. 24) and Leon (Rte. 45). Buffet at the station, with an excellent dor- mitory near ; good and clean bedrooms, 10 r. a night. Half a mile distant is the village of Banos de Cerraio, Pop. 545. The small and interesting eh. was built by Recesvinto, a.d. 661. The original walls and curious arch of the presbytery still remain. 12 J m. Aguilar ejo Stat. Near this stat. are the ruins of the Convent of Sta. Maria de Palazuelos. The River Pisuerga is crossed by a bridge of 9 arches. 4 m. Cabezon Stat. Pop. 1014. Here Bessieres defeated the Spaniards under Cuesta. The sight of numerous chimneys rising against the sky prepares the traveller for a place of some commer- cial activity in the city of 8 m. Valladolid Stat. (Buffet.) Here is the central depot of the rly. (exten- sive engine-works). Valladolid. Pop. 54,792. Inns : Fonda del Siglo ; Fonda del Peso ; Casa deHuespedes, Call© Nueva, No. 4 — none good. Omnibus (fare 3 rs. each person) and cabs ply in the streets. Post-office. — Plazuela de los Arces. Cafes. — Suizo, in Calle de la Con- stitucion ; Calderon, under the theatre of same name ; and Moka, in the Calle Isabel Segunda. Teatro de Calderon , opposite the cli. of las Angustias — it will seat 2650 persons ; de Lope de Vega , constructed to accommodate 1500 persons. Plaza del Toros. — Fights during the annual fair (20th to 30th Sept.). Casino (Circulo) : it occupies part of the building devoted to the Theatre de Calderon. Strangers are admitted upon the introduction of a member. c Galignani’s Messenger,’ and all French papers, arrive by the early morning train. Bankers. — Jover and Co., Plazuela del Ochavo. Silversmiths . — Calle de la Piateria. Valladolid was tamed for its silver plate, sacred and profane ; and though her artists have fallen off in skill, they still carry on a considerable business in coarse articles. Promenades. — Espolon, on the left bank of the Pisuerga, and El Prado de la Magdalena, are the resorts in summer evenings ; in winter the San Francisco, on the S. side of the Plaza Mayor, and the Acera de Itecoletos on the S. side of the Campo Grande. This city, whose name comes from the Moorish Belad-Waled (Land of Waled), is situated on a plain 2100 ft. above the sea-level, on the banks of the Pisuerga and other streams fa- vourable to manufacturing industry. It is the centre of the corn trade of Castile. In the 15th centy. it became the residence of the kings of Castile under Juan II., and was the seat of the Court until Philip II. made Madrid the capital. Few cities in Spain suf- fered more severely from the French ; many of the finest buildings were stripped and ruined by them. There is a Spanish Protestant church and school here. The Cathedral, a Grseco-Italian edi- fice, by the architect Herrera, begun 1585 by order of Philip II., stuck fast a few years after, and has remained a fragment ever since. It consists of a nave of 4 bays, 250 ft. long by 150 broad. The naked walls are without the slightest ornament, and the exte- rior of the edifice (as altered by Churri- guerra) is ungainly. The choir stalls are very good ; those which came from the convent of St. Paul were designed by Herrera. Visit the chapel of the benefactor of Valladolid, Count Pedro Ansurez. The cloister is Doric. There are many interesting things in the archives — the papers date from 1517 — a collection of portraits of the bishops of the diocese, and the model of the cathedral as designed by Herrera. In the sacristy is a silver custodia, 6 ft. high, weighing 63 kilos. The prin- cipal subject represents Adam and Eve in Paradise ; it deserves the Scale in French Metres (2000 Metres = 2 \ 87 English Yards). A. Plaza of la Antigua. B. Post Office. G. Fuente Dorada. I). Plazuela de la Rinconada. E. Plazuela de Sta. Ana. F. Calle de las Platerias. G. Cathedral. H. Church of la Antigua. X. Plazuela de la Universidad. J. Plazuela de San Pablo. K. Church of San Pablo. L. Plazuela de los Leones. M. Plazuela de San Miguel. N. Plazuela del Hospicio. O. Plazuela de San Nicolas. P. Plazuela del Campillo. Q. Plazuela de San Juan. R. Calle de la Constitucion. S. Plazuela Vieja. T. Plazuela del Rosarillo. U. Church of las Angustias. V. Church of La Magdalena. W. House where Columbus died. X. Calle de Teresa Gil. Y. Plazuela de Belen. Z. The Museum. PRINCIPAL CHURCHES, SQUARES, STREETS, & c. The Oastiles. Bouie 1. — Valladolid: Churches. 25 special attention of the traveller. It is Juan de Arfe’s masterpiece, dated 1590. Close at hand is the Ch. of Sta. Maria la Antigua, marked by its fine tall steeple, Lombard in style, which, as well as the body of the nave, dates from about 1200, while the E. end is later. This is an interesting pure Gothic ch. of parallel triapsal plan, with roof richly groined. Obs. on N. side the remains of the beautiful old external (see Street) cloisters. The retablo of the high altar, by Juan de Juni (1556), a much -vaunted piece of sculpture, has the fault of extravagant distortion. The following later Gothic churches are distinguished by richness of style and profuse ornamentation. Ban Pablo. It was partly rebuilt, 1463, by the Card. Juan Torquemada, the cruel inquisitor, and it was con- tinued in the 17th centy. by the Card. Duke of Lerma, whose arms are seen on the upper part of the facade, above the beautiful portal of the finest Gothic flamboyant style, which is enriched with statues, foliage, thin tracery, and armorial decoration. This ch. was gutted, stripped, and despoiled by the French, and has lately been restored. Adjoining it is the Colegiata de San Gregorio, one of the magnificent foundations of Cardinal Ximenez, dated 1496, having also a splendid fa 9 ade (rich in heraldic orna- ment) and portal, which runs up into an armorial tree. In the Patio there is a very fine example of a window, witli decorations in stucco, in the Moorish style. The quadrangle and staircase of the convent are splendid, and are undoubtedly among the finest things at Valladolid ; notice the artesonado halls (once library) and chapel. This edifice was ruined by the French. The Church of San Martin has an interesting tower of Eomanesque style ; the arches inside the church are pointed. barrack. The ch., which is about to be restored, was begun 1499. The interior very fine, roof richly groined. It has a choir gallery at the W. end, besides one on the ground enclosed with an iron grille. La Magdalena, 1570, bears on its W. front the arms of its founder, Bp. Pedro de la Gasca, whose monument it contains, as well as a Corinthian retablo, both masterpieces of Esteban Jordan, 1571, 1577. In the Ch. of Nuestra Senora de las Anguslias (date 1604) the high altar is ascribed to Pompeo Leoni. La Madre Dolorosa, called also “La Vir- gen de los Cucliillos,” from 7 swords piercing her breasts, arranged like a fan, is the masterpiece of Juan de Juni. At Ban Lorenzo there is a curious painting which represents a procession in the time of Philip III. The small chapel of Portaceli has a splendid retablo and altar of coloured marbles and bronzes. The Church of La Cruz, Calle de la Plateria, contains some fine wooden sculptures by Gregorio Hernandez. At the Church of La Antigua there is a good retablo by Juan de Juni. Colegio de los Xngleses, Calle Real de Don Sancho. was endowed by Sir Francis Englefield (one of the most zealous adherents of Mary Queen of Scots), who withdrew to Spain after her execution. Philip II. granted cer- tain privileges in 1590, which the Col- lege still enjoys. 45 students from the United Kingdom, are the usual number educating for the priesthood. Colegio de los Escoceses, Calle del Salvador (formerly a Jesuit College), was founded about 1790, for the edu- cation of Catholic priests for North Britain. 20 young Scotchmen are con- stantly under tuition. San Benito, The convent is now a Museo (formerly the Colegio de 26 Route 1 . — • Valladolid : Museo. Sect. I. Sta. Cruz), near the Cathedral. A receptacle has been made in the Colegio de Sta. Cruz for the monu- ments, sculptures, pictures, &c., stripped from desecrated churches by the French and Spaniards, but not carried off. Here may be studied the works of Juan de Juni, probably Italian, and the native sculptors Hernandez and Berruguete. The pictures by Rubens which were carried off by the French army in 1808, and afterwards returned, were painted for the convent of nuns at Fuensal&aha. They r<- present : No. 1, Assumption of the Yirgin. No. 138, St. Anthony of Padua and Infant Saviour. No. 140, St. Francis and a Lay Brother. The portrait of the founder of the Colegio de Sta. Cruz, Cardinal Pedro Gonzalez de Mendoza, is at the entrance. The choir stalls which belonged to the Convent of St. Francis are arranged round the first gallery. The most important pictures con- tained in the large saloon are: The Fuensaldana, Rubens; No. 137, San Diego, Carducci ; No. 5, Annunciation, Jose Martinez; No. 13, Last Supper, Antonio Pereda. The two fine statues of the Duke and Duchess of Lerma, by Pompeio Leoni , from the convent of San Pablo, are in this room. The choir stalls are by Berruguete. They come from the church of San Benito, and will probably be restored to their former position when the church is restored. 1st Room. — Nos. 5 and 9 are by Carducci ; The Porcincula, Diego Diaz. 2nd Room. — St, Peter, Ribera. 3rd Room contains an interesting collection of early Spanish paintings on panel. 4th Room. — A good picture of a Holy Family, by Diego Diaz. 5th Room. — Some indifferent pro- ductions by Palomino. On a table a model by Gil de Palacios. 6th Room. — St. Joachim and St. Anne, Murillo (?). 7th Room contains a good Retablo and some pictures of the school of Ribera. 8th Room. — Old paintings of the early Spanish schools. 9th Room. — No. 16, a St. Bruno, by Zurbaran. Temptations of St. An- thony, by Bosch. The wooden sculptures are very re- markable, and the Spanish school is nowhere better represented than at Yalladolid. Obs. especially in the first room three statues by Berruguete. No. 2, the masterpiece of the sculptor Hernandez, Saint Teresa ; No. 3, Saint Francis, and No. 7, Christ carrying the Cross, are by the same master. No. 20, Saint Bruno, and No. 22, The Yirgin, are by Berruguete; No. 24, St. Anthony, by Juan de Juni. The 2nd room contains an interest- ing Gothic bas-relief; and No. 29, The Death of our Lord, a fine composition, by Hernandez. The 3rd room, No. 23, a Pieta ; and No. 36, by Hernandez. No. 37 is a striking group of St. Simon receiving the scapulary from the Yirgin, by Juan de Juni. There are two fine crucifixes in the Sala de Juntas, and some bronze cabinets which were made for Philip Y. There is a Library of 14,600 vols. and 200 MSS. ; open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., free. The University is a heavy Churri- gueresque building of the 17th centy. ; the front is loaded with massive statues of the Sciences. It is resorted to by students of law and medicine. El Palacio was built, 17th cent t y., by the Duke of Lerma, and purchased for the Crown by Philip III. It has a noble Patio, with 2 cloistered gal- leries, adorned with busts of Roman Fmperors and arms of the provinces of Spain. Here Buonaparte resided, Jan. 1809. Remarkable Squares, Houses, &c. Plaza Mayor, in the centre of the city ; here are the best shops. The S. side, la Acer a de San Francisco , is the winter lounge of idlers and gossips, and is a minor Puerta del Sol. In this plaza, grand spectacles, executions, and bull-fights used to take place. On this spot Berenguela made over her crown to her son, St. Ferdinand, July 1, 1217. Here also was beheaded, on 27 The Castiles. Route 1 . — Camp June 2, 1452, that spoilt child of for- tune, Alvaro de Luna, the favourite of Juan II., deserted, after long services, by his master, a shallow, false, and feeble king, influenced alike by poets and courtiers, and alternately their dupe and tyrant. Alvaro for thirty years had really held the sceptre, keeping down the turbulent aristo- cracy with a rod of iron : his death was courageous, as became a knight; humble, as became a Christian. Here, again, Charles V., on a grand throne, wisely pardoned the Comuneros. Here his son, Philip II., celebrated, Oct. 7, 1559, the first memorable Auto de Fe. Such spectacles were of frequent oc- currence here during the rule of the Inquisition. Campo Grande, situated between the rly. stat. and the town. Here Napo- leon I. reviewed 35,000 troops in Jan. 1809. The Acera de Recoletos , on the S. side, is a winter promenade. Columbus died at his house, No, 7, Calle de Colon , on the 20th of May, 1508. His bones were removed to San Domingo in 1536, and from thence to Cuba in 1795. Cervantes resided at the house, No. 14, Calle de Rastro , and it is supposed that he wrote the first part of his Don Quijote here after his return from slavery. Don Rodrigo Calderon, the minister of Philip III., lived in the house No. 22, Ccdle de Teresa Gil (he was beheaded Oct. 21st, 1621). Philip II. came into the world in a large house opposite San Pablo , on May 21st, 1527. Juan de Juni, the sculptor, painter, and architect, lived and died in the house, No. 39, at rt.-hand corner of the Calle de San Luis, near the Campo | G-rande. Hernandez purchased it soon! after the death of his fellow-sculptor,* and here he also lived until his death, 22nd January, 1636. Berruguete lived opposite St. Benito el Real. He began life as an Escribano del crimen to the Chancilleria, or crown- side attorney ; from the desk of chi- canery he passed into the noble studio )0 Grande ; Excursions . of Michael Angelo, and became im- mortal. The insesthetic authorities of Valladolid, so far from raising a monu- ment to his glory, have converted his house into a barrack, as the palace of the princely Benavente was turned by them into a foundling hospital. In the house, first to the rt. going out of the Plazuela Vieja into the Calle de San Martin, Alonso Cano is said by libellers to have killed his wife. Fabio Nelli, the Maecenas of Valla- dolid, lived in the plaza which still bears his name ; obs. the fine old house with Corinthian patio and medallions. In the Casa de las Argollas, so called from the “iron links,” Alvaro de Luna was confined before his execution ; the artesonado ceiling of his dungeon of state was magnificent. The Casa del Sol, a handsome edi- fice opposite San Gregorio, was the abode of Diego Sarmiento de Acuna, Count de Gondomar, ambassador from Philip III. to James I. of England, — a learned man and no mean diploma- tist. He died here, Aug. 1, 1626. Look also at the Casa de Villa- Sautes, in the Calle del Rosario, and at the patio of the Casa Reviila, corner of the Calle de la Ceniza. A railway is projected from Valla- dolid by Soria to Calatayud, 1882. Diligences to Benavente, Salamanca, and Segovia. Barges leave daily by the Canal of Castille for Palencia, fare 12 rs. Excursions. To Simaneas (Pop. 1258): 7 m. on the road to Zamora. Inn : Casa de Huespedes del Hojalatero, not good. Here the bulk of the Spanish archives are deposited. (See Route 20.) 8 m. Viana Stat. Pop. 385. Iron bridge over the Duero. 3 m. Vaidestilias Stat. Pop. 918. 5 m. Matapozuelos Stat. Pop. 1459. 4 m. Posaldez Stat. Pop. 2139. 8 m. Medina del Campo Junction Stat. Change for Zamora and Sala- manca (Rtes. 15, 18). {Inns: Para- dor del Norte, 5 m. walk from the station ; one of the best managed hotels in Spain, and moderate in 28 Boute 1.- price.) The u City of the Plain,” the finest wheat-growing district in Spain — a dull but most picturesque old town. Pop. 5123. The principal church of St. Antolin is built of brick ; it is Gothic in style, and was founded in 1503. The Retablo (Renaissance) is of 5 stages. In the sacristy is a good painting of St. Antolin ; also a Pieta. In the chapel of the Hospital, now a barrack, is the tomb of the founder, 1591, and a good iron reja. Visit the Castillo de la Mota, which rises out of the plain. This pictu- resque brick building, with bartizan turrets, was built by Fernando de Carreno, for Juan II., in 1440, on the site of the Roman Methimna ; it was enlarged by Queen Isabel in 1479. It was the prison of Caesar Borgia, and in it Queen Isabel the Pious died, Nov. 26, 1504, in the 54th year of her age and the 30th of her reign, Here also, in 1555, Juana la Loca held her court. Rly. to Segovia projected. 3 m. Gomez-Harro Stat. Pop. 431. 10 m. Ataquines Stat. Pop. 1292. 9 1 m. Arevalo Stat. Pop. 3595. Diligence to Segovia. In its royal palace (now in ruins) resided Queen Jsabel, Charles V., Philip II., Philip III., and Philip IV. The Adaja river is now crossed on a viaduct of 4 arches of double tiera. 6 m. Adanero Stat. (the town — Pop. 1070 — is situated 3 m. 1. of the stat.). See outline of hills of Somosierra to the 1. 6| m. Sanehidrian Stat. (Pop. 976), 2850 ft. above the sea-level. About here are extensive pine-woods. 4J m. Velayos Stat. Pop. 1023. The country here is richly wooded with ilex. 6 m. Mingorria Stat. Pop. 1111. Chaos of granite blocks. 8f m. Avila Stat. Buffet at station, \ m. from the town. Inns : Fonda del Ingles, but now managed by a native, 30 rs. ,* very fair. Fonda de la Vic- toria, from 20 rs. a day. Both near the Cathedral ; both have omnibus to the station. Also several Casas de Huespedas; —Avila. Sect. I. that in the Plazuela de San Pedro, No. 6, can be recommended. Avila (Pop. 9115) is 3496 ft. above the sea-level. It presents a noble specimen of a mediaeval wall-girt city, and is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque towns in Spain, and on no account to be passed by without a visit. Its granite walls are perfect ; they were begun in 1090, and are 40 ft. high and 12 ft. thick, and there are no less than 86 towers and 10 gate- ways. To form these gateways two of the towers are brought near together, carried up higher than the rest, and connected together by an arch. Before the use of artillery the city must have been impregnable, for every point com- mands the plain below the hill upon which it is built, and even the grand Cathedral is half church, half fortress. Avila is placed near the Sierra de Avila, which in winter is snow-capped ; it is a charming retreat from the summer and autumnal heats of the metropolis of Spain, for the parameras are always fresh. the vega is wonderfully fertile, and many are the sweet valleys which lie ensconced between the hills, watered by gloriously picturesque trout streams. In winter there is excellent wild-fowl shooting, and a wolf may often be met with. Avila, says the Spaniards, was origin- ally called Abula , after the mother of Hercules, by whom the first city which bore that name is said to have been founded b.c. 1660. Whoever may have founded the original city, the city which now exists was rebuilt by Don Ramon of Burgundy (son-in-law of Alonso VI.), in the year of our Lord 1088. The wall was built under the superintendence of two foreigners, — Cassandro, a master of geometry and a Roman, and Florian de Pituenga, a Frenchman. The streets of Avila are narrow and tortuous, but picturesque. The city is the see of a bishop suffragan to Valladolid, and it has a university and military college. The Cathedral is dedicated to San Salvador, and was commenced a.d. 1091 under the superintendence of Alva The Castiles. Route 1. — Avila : Cathedral . 29 Garcia, a native of Estella, in Navarre. Examine its strong cimborio and its apse , with castellated machicolations, which forms one of the towers of the city walls. The north door is of grand dimensions, with statues in each jamb. The tympanum is sculptured with our Lord in the centre, the Be- trayal and Last Supper below, and the Coronation of the Virgin above. The Cathedral, although commenced 1091, in “its general character is thoroughly that of the end of the 12th, or early part of the 13th centy., with considerable alterations and ad- ditions at later periods.” * The severe interior (less blocked up by the eoro than usual) is very striking. Notice the forms of the windows, espe- cially the upper ones, almost in the very arches of the roof. The stained- glass windows are very fine. The Be- tablo of the high altar is exceedingly grand. It is of the time of Ferdinand and Isabel, and is divided into five sides — three stages in height — each side with a rich canopy. The lowest stage has St. Peter and St. Paul painted in the middle of the panels, with 4 Evangelists and 4 Doctors on either side. The second stage has for its centre the Transfiguration, with the Annunciation, the Nativity, the Adora- tion of tiie Magi, and the Presentation in the Temple, at its sides. The third and last stage has the Crucifixion in the centre, and the Agony, the Scourg- ing, the Resurrection, and the Descent into Hell, at the sides. The pictures of this retablo are by Santos Cruz, Pedro Berruguete, and Juan de Bor- goiia : they were painted in 1508, and are among the oldest in Spain. The richly-carved woodwork in which the paintings are framed is a jumble of styles, the canopies being Gothic, whilst the columns themselves are thoroughly Renaissance. The Siberia del Coro is excellently carved, with an affinity of saints, &c., and is the work of Cornielis, 1536-47 : the fittings of the coro are all Renais- sance. Obs. the two fine iron pulpits, 1 * Vide street’s ‘Gothic Architecture of Spain,’ j 1864, p. 164. | one of the 15th, the other of the 16th centy., admirable specimens of Spanish iron- work. Near them are two altars made of alabaster in 1525, covered with carvings in the Renaissance style. To the east is the usual metal reja, and the low rails which enclose the passage between the coro and thecapilla mayor. In the trascoro remark, among some fine reliefs, an Adoration of the Kings, a Flight into Egypt, and a Santa Ana. Obs. also particularly behind the Ca- pilla Mayor, the beautifully carved tomb of the learned Alfonso Tostado de Madrigal, who was bishop of Avila about the year 1450, and hence called el Abulense ; his effigy, carvei 1 by Ber- ruguete, is of alabaster, and represents the prelate in the act of writing, which was the joy and the business of his life (obiit 1455, aged 55). He is said to have written three sheets per day, every day of his life; he was con- sidered the Solomon of his age. The chapels are interesting. In that of San Nicolas there is a sepulchre called de los imageries , covered with a multitude of figures ; in San Juan two fine tombs. Near this chapel there is a good retablo, covered with early Spanish paintings. Near the chapel of San Bias there is a remark- able sepulchre inside a pointed arch, with figures of angels and priests. In the chapel of San Ildefonso several tombs. In that of San Pedro, in the nave at the left, there is a good Gothic retablo. In the Concepcion, the se- pulchre of Dean Medina, 1559, and opposite a good picture representing the Holy Family. In that of San Miguel there is a fine tomb of the 13th centy., with interesting represen- tations of an interment. The sacristy is very fine ; it is covered with rich ornamentations in the Re- naissance style. The treasure deserves a special mention. The doors of the Belicario are covered with paintings of the 15th centy. The splendid silver monstrance by Arfe is kept there. It is composed of four tiers, in imitation 1 of the Greco-Roman style. The lower | tier is Ionic, the other three are [Corinthian. The sacrifice of Abra- 30 Boute 1. — Avila: Churches . Sect. I. liam, and other subjects of the Old and New Testaments, are represented in fine reliefs, with the following inscription : Joannes de Arphe legion facebat hoc opus, An. 1571. Obs. also a fine enamelled chalice of the 14th centy., by Andrea Petrucci Orto, of Sienna, and a great variety of church-plate of different kinds. The Cloisters on S. side of nave are much mutilated ; they have good traceried windows, but these are now blocked up and their cuspings de- stroyed. Several chapels exist in the angles. In the Piedad there is a good reja in the Plateresque style, and some first-rate paintings on panel. At the east there is a Gothic saloon with fine windows painted by Santillana and Yaldivieso in 1498. Ascend the tower at the end of the aisles, from whence a magnificent view is obtained of the surrounding coun- try. The Church of San Vicente is just outside the walls, near the gate leading to Segovia; it belongs to the Ro- manesque period, and was built at the end of the 12 th or beginning ot the 13th centy., and dedicated to the three martyrs — Yicente, Sabina, and Cris- teta — who were put to death on the rock still visible in the crypt below the eastern apse. The west end is the noblest portion of this beautiful ch. Notice the two towers — one incom- plete — and the lofty arch between them with the ball ornaments, also the marvellous beauty of the carving above and around the western door- way; the tympanum is sculptured on the left with the story of Dives and Lazarus, and on the right with a death-bed scene, where angels support the soul as it ascends to Paradise. The tomb of San Yicente and his brethren is most interesting ; it is placed below the lantern, and is un- doubtedly of 13th-centy. construction ; its style is early pointed Italian Gothic, the influence of Italian art being espe- cially observable in the iron ties with which it is held together, the forms of some of the twisted and sculptured shafts, and in the figures of the Apostles, which are introduced into the angles of the shrine. This ancient ch. was built, accord- ing to tradition, by a converted Jew, who — like his namesake San Vicente of the Cape, martyrised by Dacien — was born at Evora, or Talavera, and was executed together with his two brothers, on October 27th, 303. His body was cast to the dogs; but a serpent watched over it and flew at a mocking Jew, who in his fright vowed, if he escaped, to build and endow a church, which he did. The hole out of which the serpent came was for long one of the three sites of adjuration. The present part or addition to the tomb was raised in or about 1468 by Martin Yilches, bishop of Avila, and successor of Tostado. The curious in such matters may descend into the Santa Maria Soterraha, and inspect this stone. Ascend the tower and obtain a charming view of Avila, the Cathedral, and the frowning city gate ; also of the roof of the ch. itself, and of the beautiful vega outside the walls. Church of San Pedro is in plan and design similar to that of San Segundo. It is also placed outside the walls and close to one of the principal gates, at the S.E. angle of the city. The north doorway has a richly-sculptured archivolt, and the vaulting is very peculiar. The detail of this ch. is Romanesque, and some of the ribs are boldly moulded in such a manner as to suggest the possibility of its having been erected about the year 1250. Church, or rather Chapel, of San Segundo is placed below the city walls and close to the bridge of the Adaja. It is quite small and of Norman style. Obs. the beautiful white marble tomb of San Segundo, bishop of Avila, who is said to have hurled a Moorish chief from the turret which overhangs the ch. The bishop kneels at a fine tomb before an open book : the effigy is attributed to Berruguete. Santo Tomas, outside the city, is a Dominican convent ; it has been lately restored, and is used now as a Seminary The Cas tiles. ’Route 1 . — Avila : for tlie education of youths for Domin- icans, who are sent to the Philippine Islands. The cli. was founded in 1482 from the spoils of plundered Jews, and its interior is grave yet graceful. The delicately carved Silleria de Coro is by Cornielis. The Coro is placed on an elliptical arch, and consequently the general view is unbroken. The pearl of the place is the exquisitely sculptured white marble Sepulchre of Prince Juan , only son of Ferdinand and Isabel, who died at Salamanca in 1497, aged 19. He was a youth of infinite promise. Obs. in another part of the ch. the monument to Juan de Avila and Juana Velazquez, who were attendants upon the prince ; their effigies, which lie side by side on the same tomb, are also finely carved. Both tombs are masterpieces of the Florentine sculptor Micer Domenico, and were raised by Juan Velazquez, the prince’s treasurer, who added short but pathetic epitaphs to each. Obs. also the deserted grass-grown cloisters, and the commanding view obtained from the roof, of the stone-strewed moorland around, and the glorious range of the Sierra de Avila in the distance. Church of Nuestra Serafica Madre Santa Teresa de Jesus is, for the admirers of this saint, the greatest glory of Avila; in other respects it is uninteresting. It was erected over the birthplace of Santa Teresa, who was born here of noble parents, March 28th, 1515. When only 7 years of age she longed to go to Africa to be mar- tyrised by the Moors ; at 20 she took the veil, and soon after founded no less than 17 convents of barefooted Carmelites. Teresa has always been a great favourite with Spanish artists, who sometimes represent her as writing at a table whilst a dove whispers in her ear “ news from her spouse ; ” at other times she is drawn as dying away, whilst an angel touches her heart with a fire-tipped arrow. The 27th of August is kept all over the Peninsula as the day sacred to this mystery. It is called La transverbera- cion del corazon de Santa Teresa de Churches; Excursion . 31 Jesus. Her festival is celebrated on the 15th of October.* Adjoining the ch. is the nunnery de las Carmelites Bescalzas, known also el Convento de • las Madres. Santa Teresa’s statue sanctifies the portal, and her bust adorns the high altar. Her oaken rosary and her staff are shown as relics. Notice the tomb of her brother, Lorenzo de Cepeda (obiit 1580) ; and a kneeling effigy of a pre- late (obiit 1586) ; also two superb sculptures of kneeling statues of Francisco Velazquez, and another, dating about 1630. An apple-tree grows in the nunnery garden which is said to have been planted by Santa Teresa. The ecclesiologist can examine the churches of San Esteban and San An- dres, whilst the artist and architect will find much to interest them in the picturesque Mereados ; and in the noble courtyards of the houses of the Mar- ques de Velar es, and the Duke de Me- dina Celi — in the Casa de Pedro Da- villa some of the Toros of Guisando are lying scattered about ; two others may still be seen, one in the Plazuela de Santo Domingo, and another in front of an old palace within the Puerta de San Vicente. Obs. also the ancient mansion of the Condes de Polentinos, with an enriched portal of armed men, and an elegant but dila- pidated patio. Visit the fine house and museum of Count de Onate. From Avila, diligences daily , or every other day , to Salamanca and Bejar, or by rail by Medina del Campo (Rte. 18). Excursion from Avila. [A very pleasant drive, or horseback ride, can be made to the Geronimite Convent of Guisando, distant 14 m. It is situated upon the old diligence- road to Madrid, which traverses the rugged hilly country, and crosses the meandering Adaja to Berceo, and thence to Guisando. It was there that the memorable meeting took place * Santa Teresa died on the 4th of October, 1582, at Alva de Tormes. See, for further details, ‘Yida de Sta. Teresa/ by F. Yepes, Mad,, 1599. 32 Route 1. — Avila: Excursions . Sect. I. (Sept. 9, 1468) between Enrique IY. and Isabel. Bead Prescott’s descrip- tion, ch. iii. of his * Ferdinand and Isabel.’ In the courtyard of the con- vent are some of the strange animals of granite, called Toros , as a generic name, but they appear more to repre- sent boars or other wild animals. They have been considered by some authors as landmarks, by others as deities of the natives, placed, like the sphinxes, near Asiatic temples. The Roman in- scriptions on these, animals are, no doubt, of a later date and they have been sadly injured by man and time. These Toros were once very numerous in Central Spain : thus Gil de Avila, writing in 1598, enumerates 63 of them, whilst Somorrostro, in 1820, numbers only 37 ; thus are these un- explained relics of antiquity disap- pearing.] From Avila the rly. traverses a mountainous country, 44 tunnels, with a total length of 4100 yds., intervening between Avila Stat. and the Escoriai. The fine viaduct of the Gartera is crossed to 9 m. Havalgrande Stat. The country becomes barren aud uncultivated. The viaduct of Valdespinos is passed, and afterwards numerous tunnels. Sub- sequently the point is reached vrhere the rly. attains its highest altitude, viz. 4565 ft. above the sea-level. 1 m. La Canada Stat. Here the rly. begins to descend again, and a mag- nificent panorama opens out to the rt. The range of Sierra de Toledo moun- tains stretches away in the far distance. 6J m. Navalperal Stat. Pop. 969. The altitude of the rly. at this point is 3700 ft. Large oak and pine forests skirt the rly. from hence to 3 m. Las Havas del Marques Stat., a town of 2844 Inhab. The fine chalet and extensive pine-plantations, similar to those at Arrachon, are a great source ofrichestothe DukeofMedinaceli. The Duchess has turned what was for- merly a desert into a thriving village, with excellent schools and cottages for the inhabitants. Several tunnels are passed, then a viaduct with 7 arches, and 3 more tunnels to 11 J m. Robledo Stat. ; height above the sea-level 1268 ft. The town is 3 miles distant from the station. In the parish church there is a fine retablo with 17 panels, painted by Antonio del Rincon (1446-1500), the only well-authenticated pictures which exist by this master, the first Spaniard who abandoned the Gothic style of painting. The rly. here enters the plain of Madrid. 5| Zaralejo Stat. Pop. 781. 3£ m. El Escoriai Stat. It saves much trouble and expense to stop at the Escoriai on the way to Madrid. Altitude 2860 ft. Pop. 705. The Palace of the Escoriai, seen from the rly., is described inRte. 3. 8 m. Yillalba Stat. Pop. 572. Bridge over the Guadarrama. Dili- gence from here daily to Segovia and La Granja. 5 m. Torre Lodones Stat. Pop. 295. 3J m. Las Rozas Stat. Pop. 793. To the 1 is the Royal park and palace of the Pardo. 5J m. Pozuelo Stat. Pop. 1346. This village is pleasantly situated on a fertile plain, and is a place of holiday resort for the citizens of Madrid. The rly. now passes the royal do- mains of the Moncloa and la Florida, and Madrid is approached, the river Manzanares being seen to the rt., separated from the rly. by the Paseo de la Florida and its broad avenue of trees. 8J m. Madrid Stat. Cabs to every part of the city ; fare 4 rls. by day, 10 and 12 rls. after midnight. Omnibuses to the Puerta del Sol, fare 2 rls. per person ; luggage 1 real each article. Tram-cars meet the trains. (Madrid is described in the following Route.) - ;*tv . references to plan. 1 D 4 Post Office. 2 C 2 Teatro Real. 3 D 4 Teatro Espanolo del Principe. 4 C 4 Teatro de la Zarzuela. 5 B 2 Teatro y circo del Principe Alfonso. B 5 Biblioteca Nacional. 5 E 4 Teatro deVariedades. B Banos Arabes. 6 C 5 Circus. I B 1 Road to the Bull Bing. B 1 Hospital de Ninos. 9 C 2 Royal Palace. 10 C 2 Royal Stables. II C 2 Biblioteca Nacional. C 5 Teatro de Apolo. 12 D 2 Armeria Real. 12 D 2 Viaduct. 13 D 6 Artillery Museum. 14 C 2 Naval Museum.' 15 C 4 Museum of Natural History. 16 D 5 El Museo (Picture and Sculpture Gallery). 17 D 4 National Museum of the Minis- terio de Fomento. 18 C 2 Senado (House of Lords). 19 D 5 CongresodelosDiputados (House of Commons). 20 D 2 Casa de los Consejos. 21 E 2 San Francisco el Grande. 22 D 3 Nuestra Senora de la Concep- cion or Latina. 23 E 3 Sail Isidro el Real. 24 D 3 San Gines. 26 E 6 Astronomical Observatory. 27 B 5 Mint. 28 C 6 Entrance to the drive of the Retiro Gardens. 29 D 3 Hotel de la Paix. 30 D 3 „ de Paris. 31 D 4 „ de Rusia. 32 D 6 Museum of Reproductions. 33 F 5 Railway Station for Toledo, Caceres, Ciudad, Real, Merida, Badajoz, and Portugal. 34 C 3 Teatro de Lara. 35 F 4 Museo Arqueoldgico. C 3 Plaza del Callao. D l Proposed Cathedral. F 2 Puente de Toledo, road to Toledo A 1 Road leading to the Eecuela de Agriculture. A. 5 Paseo de la Castellana, which ends with the “ Hippodrome. The Castiles, Boute 2. — Madrid. 33 EOUTE 2. MADRID. Page Description and Position 33 $ 1. Hotels, Restaurants, Cafes ... 35 $ 2. Post and Telegraph Offices ... 36 $ 3. Clubs, Theatres, Bull-ring, &c. . . 36 $ 4. Bankers, English Legation and Pro- testant Churches, Baths, Physicians, Masters 37 $ 5. Cabs and Broughams, Tramways, Railway and Diligence Office . . 38 $ 6. Shops, Tradespeople 38 § 7. Sight-seeing, Squares, Gates, the River, Canals, Bridges .... 39 $ 8. Promenades and Public Gardens . 42 $ 9. Royal Palace 45 $ 10. Public Libraries .47 $11. Royal Armoury 48 $12. Archaeological Museum; Private Ar- mouries. Museums of Artillery, Marine, and Natural History . . 51 $ 13. Royal Picture Gallery 53 $ 14. Museo Nacional; Museo de Repro- ducciones ; Private Galleries . . 74 $ 15. Public Buildings 76 $ 16. Churches; Courts of Law; Audi- encia; Observatory’ 78 $ 17. Hospitals 81 $ 18. Royal Printing Office ; Mint; Stock Exchange; Banks; University; Carpet Manufactory . . . .81 $ 19. Palaces of the Grandees. Remark- able Houses and Graves ... 82 $ 20. Environs of Madrid 84 This city, the capital of Spain, is situated on the side of the waterless river Manzanares, and has a population of 399,523. The first historical and real mention of Madrid occurs under Ramiro II., c. 930. Majerit , as it was then called, was only a Moorish for- tified outpost of Toledo when captured in 1083 by Alonso YI. Enrique IV., about 1461, made some additions to the older town, which was placed on the west prominence over the river Manzanares. It was surrounded with forests, which Argote describes, so late as 1582, as “ buen monte de puerco y oso” (good cover for boar and hear), on account of which the site was made a royal hunting residence. These woods have long been cut down by the im- provident inhabitants; their loss, as at Rome, having contributed much to the general insalubrity of the town. Of recent years, however, much irn- [. Spain , 1882.] provement has taken place in this respect. The arms of Madrid are a tree vert with fruit gules, up which a bear is climbing, an orle azure with eight stars, argent, and over the escut- cheon a royal crown. Madrid really rose under Charles V., who, gouty and phlegmatic, felt him- self relieved by its brisk and rarefied air ; and, consulting his personal com- fort only, he deserted for this upstart favourite the time-honoured capitals of Valladolid, Seville, Granada, and Toledo, to fix his residence (about 1510) on a spot which Iberian, Roman, Goth, and Moor had all rejected. Ma- drid was declared “ the only court ” by Philip II. in 1560, and styled “ Impe- rial y Coronada , muy noble y muy leal” to which was added “?/ muy heroica by Ferdinand VII. in 1.814. The city is built upon a lofty plateau formed of several hills, at an elevation of 2450 Eng. ft. above the sea-level. This elevation on an open wind-blown plain was probably the reason for the derivation given by some to Majerit , signifying in Arabic, “ a current of air ” — a Buenos Ayres of dust. The gross mistake of a most faully position, which has no single advan- tage except the fancied geographical merit of being in the centre of Spain, was soon felt, and Philip III. in 1601 endeavoured to remove the court back again to Valladolid, which, however, was then found to be impracticable, such had been the creation of new in- terests during the outlay in the pre- ceding reign. Philip II. had, more- over, neglected the opportunity of placing the capital of the Peninsula at Lisbon, which is admirably situ- ated on a noble river and on the sea, where the marine could not have been left to perish ; had this been done, Portugal never would or could have revolted, or the Peninsula been thus dissevered, by which the first blow was dealt to Spain’s short-lived great- ness : thus to Madrid, and to its monkish ulcer the Escorial, is the germ of present decay to be traced. Charles III., a wise prince, contem- plated a removal to Seville ; so also D 34 Route 2. — Madrid. Sect. I. did the intrusive Joseph, but the thing was impossible. The basin in which Madrid stands is bounded by the Sierra of the Gua- darrama, and by the Montes of Toledo and Guadalupe, and consists chiefly of tertiary formations, marl, gypsum, and limestone. The latter, found at Col- menar de Oreja, near Aranjuez, is a freshwater deposit, and has been much used in the construction of the build- ings of Madrid : the excellent granite comes from Colmenar Viejo (Arabice bee-hive), near the Escorial. A curious magnesite, with bones of extinct mam- malia, occurs at Vallecas, 5 m. from the capital, S.S.E., to which the geo- logist should ride to examine the flint- pits between Vallecas and Vicalvaro. J m. off is a gypsum quarry. Madrid is not even a city or Ciudad , but only the chief of villas. It has, however, always had a bishop, called “ Obispo auxiliar de Madrid ” (suf- fragan of Toledo), but no cathedral. It is divided into 16 parishes. It scarcely existed in the early period of Castilian history, and was built when the age of cathedrals was passed, that age in which edifices were raised in harmony with the deep and noble sentiment within ; hence it has little to interest the antiquarian. Built chiefly by Philip III. and Philip IV., and Charles II., and perfected under the foreigner, nowhere has the vile Chur- rigueresque and Rococo of Louis XIV. been carried to greater excess. No edifices record the Moorish, mediaeval, or greater ages of Spain. The churches are sad specimens of an insatiable greediness for tinsel. Madrid, as a residence, is disagree- able and unhealthy, alternating be- tween the extremities of temperature. The winter is variable, and often in- tensely cold, whilst the keen currents of air which sweep down from the snowy Guadarrama are fatal to weak and consumptive constitutions. It is proverbial that the subtle air of Madrid, which will not extinguish a candle, will put out a man’s life. “ El aire de Madrid es tan sotil Que mata a un kombre, y no apaga & un candil.” This winter blast is more peculiarly fatal to young children, but weak con- stitutions should avoid it. The spring is sometimes wet and rainy ; when not, the climate is perfect. The summer is a dangerous period (when the pores are open), for often during a N.E. wind the difference of temperature on one side of a street to the other is of several degrees. The city is abundantly supplied with excellent water, obtained from the source of the river Lozoya, brought from a distance of 32 m., which rises amongst the southern spurs of, the sierra Guadarrama. The houses in Madrid are lofty, and different families live on different floors or flats, having the staircase in com- mon; each apartment is protected by a solid door, in which there is a small wicket, from which the suspicious inmates inspect visitors before they let them in. The interiors, according to our notions, are uncomfortable and unfurnished ; with no books, or appear- ance of occupation or of life. A great improvement has taken place in house building at Madrid. The new streets near the Barrio de Salamanca and the Fuente Castellana are full of handsome houses ; many of them are surrounded by pleasant gardens. The best months for visiting Madrid are those of April, May, and June, October and November. Carnival time is, however, the gayest period of the year: then fetes are the order of the day, and one-half of the population turn out en mascara , to intrigue and to flirt with the other half, who as a rule go unmasked. The season in Madrid commences about the end of October, and closes with the Carnival. Madrid will most please those who have hurried directly into Spain from France; to them the costume of the Prado, the bull-fights, and the azure blue sky, will possess a charm of novelty, which will be wanting to those who arrive from Valencia, Gra- nada, or Seville. The Castiles. Route 2. — Hotels , &c. 35 § 1. Hotels, Restaurants, Cafes^ Inns: — 1st class: Fonda de Paris, Puerta del Sol; excellently situated, accommodation good ; charges from 40 r. upwards, waiters and lights not included. N.B. These prices are charged whether the visitor dines and breakfasts at the hotel or not. — Fonda de la Paz and Hotel de Londres, both kept by Capdeville, Puerta del Sol ; charges from 50 r. An arrangement can be made if the visitor dines and breakfasts out. N.B. Make special agreement upon arrival. — Gran Hotel de Rusia, Carrera San Geronimo ; ac- commodation good and charges mode- rate (40 r., 50 r., and 60 r., &c., per day, according to the size of the rooms). — Hotel Americano, Puerta del Sol; charges from 40 r. upwards. N.B. For these prices 3 meals a day are allowed. For families of more than 2 persons, prices are from 30 r. — Fonda de los Embajadores, Calle de la Vic- toria, moderate; charges from 40 r. to 50 r. per day. N.B. A reduction is made from these prices when the visitor dines or breakfasts out. 2nd class : Fonda Peninsular, Calle de Alcala, close to the Puerta del Sol : this, the first commercial hotel in Madrid, is indifferent. Spanish Hotels : — Fonda Espanola, Calle de Jacometrezo, 45 ; Hotel Bil- baino, Carrera de San Geronimo, charges from 26 r. upwards. These hotels are frequented chiefly by Spaniards. Lodgings , Boarding-houses (Casas de Huespecles). These are very nume- rous in Madrid. Travellers who in- tend to remain a fortnight, or longer, in the Spanish capital, are advised to board and lodge in one of these esta- blishments, where for a fixed price (varying from 30 r. to 40 r. per diem) they will have their private bedroom, and two meals a day ( almuerzo — break- fast — at 11 a.m., and dinner at 6 p.m.). Attendance is generally charged extra, 2 r. per day each person. Bedrooms on 2nd and 3rd floors are more airy and healthy than on the ground-floor. The traveller will have no difficulty in distinguishing which houses are Casas de Huespedes, as a white paper ticket is placed on the comer of the window, or fastened to the balcony, when the house is without its full complement of boarders. N.B. Where the paper is placed in the centre of the window or balcony, the lodgings are unfurnished. Restaurants : The best, where a first- rate dinner may be had at a high price, Cafe de Fornos. — Lhardy, Carrera de San Geronimo ; notice must be given the day before. Ready cooked and preserved meats for a journey pre- pared here. — Los Dos Cisnes, next to the Cafe de Fornos ; a decent dinner may be had here for 20 r. — Cafe de Paris, in the Pasage; a good break- fast may be had for 2£ pesetas. Cafes : — Cafe de Fornos, Calle de Alcala. — Cafe Imperial, Puerta del Sol (below the Fonda de Paris). — La Bolsa, Calle Barquillo, where at times Spanish singing and dancing may be seen to perfection. — Cerveceria In- glesa, Carrera de San Geronimo ; Bass’s ale. — At Dna. Mariquita’s establish- ment, in the Calle del Arenal, excel- lent chocolate can be had at all hours. Pasteleria de Viena, 28 Alcala, excel- lent ices and cakes, where ladies can go at all hours. Newspapers are not supplied, as at Paris. Summer Beverages. — The scorching summer heats in Madrid necessitate the abundant use of cooling drinks. These are supplied at the restaurant, the cafe, the theatre, and at the Agua- duclios in the streets and on the prin- cipal Paseos. Agua de Cebada is very refreshing; so is the Horchata (Or- geat) de Cliufas , or miij e mitj (“ half and half ’’), made of barley and pounded chufas , and iced lemonade. No drink, however, comes up to the Agraz or clarified verjuice. It is delicious when mixed with Manzanilla wine. Cer- beza con limon , or bottled beer mixed with lemon-juice and well iced, is another favourite summer drink. i> 2 36 Route 2. — Madrid: § 2. Post and Telegraph Offices. Post Office: Calle de la Paz, near the Puerta del Sol. Letters are de- livered from England at noon : box closes for England at 4J p.m. (See Preliminary Remarks.) Telegraph Office : Calle de San Ri- cardo, ‘behind ‘ the Ministerio de la Gobernacion, Puerta del Sol: open day and night. (For tariff, &c., see Preliminary Remarks.) § 3. Clubs, Theatres, Bull-ring, &c. Clubs: El Velez Club, the Jockey Club at Madrid; El Casino, Calle de Alcala, over the Cafe Suizo, No. 36. Travellers presented for a fortnight upon payment of 60 r. ; for a longer period, an entrance fee of one ounce (31. Is. 2J d.) must be paid, together with a subscription of 30 r. per month. El Ateneo, No. 22, Calle de la Montera, a scientific and literary club, which contains one of the best private libraries of Madrid, consisting of 10,000 volumes. In the reading-room every foreign newspaper may be found. This club holds interesting conferences on vari- ous subjects several times a week. Gambling is prohibited. Entrance fee 30 r. a month. Circulo del Co- mercio, Calle Mayor, No. 2, a commer- cial club. Circulo de Bellas Artes, Calle del Barquillo 5. There are evening drawing-classes at this club, and frequent exhibitions of pictures of modern artists. Exposicion de Bosch, 20 Carrera de San Geronimo ; objects of art always on sale. At a shop in the Calle del Desengano, Hernandez, modern Spanish pictures are always on sale. Theatres: Teatro Real, the Royal Italian Opera of Madrid. It is situated in the Plaza de Isabel II. A box, 560 r. ; a stall, 56 r. The boxes and stalls are comfortable and admirably ar- ranged ; the fashionable tiers ar epalcos bajos and palcos plateaus. Ladies go to the stalls in bonnets or mantillas. Teatro Espanol, in the Calle del Principe; dedicated to the Spanish drama. Teatro Apolo, in the Calle de Alcala. Comedies and drama. Clubs , Theatres , dee. Sect. I. Teatro de la Comedia, 14 Calle del Principe. La Zarzuela, 4 Calle de Jovellanos. This is the Opera Comique of Madrid. Teatro del Principe Alfonso, in the Paseo de Recoletos, originally built for a circus. In 1870 it was converted into a theatre for large scenic ballets, which are given duriug the spring and summer months. In the early spring excellent instrumental concerts are here given on Sunday afternoons. Teatro de Novedades, 83 Calle de Toledo: dramas, farces, &c. At this theatre during Lent the curious Pas- sion plays are still given. In the Teatros Eslava, Lara, de la Bolsa, Martin, Romeo, Variedades, and Alhambra, short pieces are given, which last an hour. The actors are generally excellent at these theatres. (The house is cleared between each piece.) Circo de Parish (English circus), in the Plaza del Rey. Prices vary at all Spanish theatres. Consult play-bills. The Madrid theatres all commence at 8.30 p.m., and terminate about 11.30. Between the acts very long intervals usually occur, during which it is cus- tomary to leave the theatre and gossip and smoke in the outer corridors with one’s friends. Smoking ivithin the theatre is strictly forbidden. Two tickets must be purchased in all Spanish theatres , viz., the ticket for box or stall (ivhich must be retained), and the entrance ticket (to be delivered up at the door). The latter costs 4 r. The best places in all the Spanish theatres are in the hands of revende - dores , who stand outside the theatres, selling them at a large profit. Jardines del Buen Retiro — a slice of the old Buen Retiro Gardens — now dedicated to summer open-air concerts. They begin at 9 p.m., and are frequented by the best society of Madrid as the only resource of those who are obliged to remain in the capi- tal during the summer months. There is also a theatre and restaurant. The Castiles. Boute 2. — Bankers , Churches , 37 Plaza de Toros (Bull-ring) is situated beyond the Buen Retiro Gardens, on the road to the Yenta del Espiritu Santo. Cab fare, 6 r. ; tramway, 20 cents ; om- nibus, 2 r. It is an imposing mass of brickwork in the Hispano- Mo- resque ( mudejar ) style, was built by the local architects, Senor Rodriguez Ayuso and Senor Alvarez Capra, and will seat If, 000 persons. Observe the elegant horse-shoe windows, and the delicate but effective brickwork ornamentation. For those who do not wish to attend the barbarous spectacle of a bull-fight, it is worth while to visit the interior of the building on a week-day, the arrangement of which will give a vivid idea of a Roman circus. The bull-fights at Madrid are first-rate. This is the national spec- tacle, and the high salaries paid at “ Court ” naturally attract the most distinguished artists. The bulls for this plaza generally come from the pastures of the Jarama. The regu- lar fights commence in April and ter- minate in October, but exhibitions with “ novillos embolados ” (young bulls with tipped horns) take place ppon fine Sunday afternoons during the year. The bull -fights proper are on Sundays, and commence from 3.30 to 4.30 p.m. Prices : Boxes in the shade (for 10 persons), 300 r. ; in the sun, 80 r. N.B. Travellers, if alone, should secure a “ delantera ” seat, or a “ tabloncillo,” either of which usually costs 29 r. The fights generally last 3 hours. § 4. Bankers, English Legation and Protestant Churches, Baths, Phy- sicians, Masters. Bankers : Weisweiller and Bauer (Agents of Rothschild), 54 Calle An- cha San Bernardo. Antonio G. Mo- reno, 17 Carrera San Geronimo. Bayo and Mora, Calle de la Greda, No. 14 ; Credit Lyonnais, 6 Calle de Espoz y Mina (both these are correspondents of the London and Westminster Bank). Doriga & Son, 7 Paseo de Recoletos (correspondents of Messrs. Coutts & Co.). P. Ojero, No. 40, Calle Hor- taleza. British Legation : Calle Torija, No. 9. TJ.S.A. Legation: Calle Sauco 13. Church of England Service at Calle de Leganitos 4. English chaplain, Rev. R. H. Whereat. Sundays at 11.30 in morning; afternoon prayers at 3.30. Spanish Protestant Churches and Schools: Calle Madera Baja 8, C. and S. ; Chamberi, Glorieta de Quevedo 5, C. and S. ; Calle Calatrava 27, C. and S. ; Calle de Leganitos 4, C. and S. ; Pehuelas-Moratin, C. and S. ; Calle de la Cabeza, C. and S. Baths: Banos Arabes, Velazquez 5> corner of Calle de Goya, Barrio de Salamanca — excellent. There is a large swimming bath, 5 r. with linen, and hot and cold baths. Banos del Niagara, open only in the summer, Cuesta de San Yiente; Banos del Norte, Calle de Jardines 18. Banos de Oriente, in Plaza de Isabella II., open all the year. Banos de San Felipe Neri, 4 Calle de las Hileras, Russian, vapour, and medicinal baths. Physicians : Dr. Reidel, the Queen's physician, speaks English. Dr. Kis- pert (speaks English), Plaza de Pro- greso 14. Dr. Bede, a French phy- sician. Senor Rubio (surgeon) (speaks English), Alcala 57. Dr. Simancas, Mayor 116. Dentists : Dr. W. Tinker, Peligros 7. J. C. Gardiner, No. 55, Carrera San Geronimo. Spanish Literature and Language Master: Senor Hermenegildo Giner, Institucion Libre de Ensehanza, In- fantas 42. Professor of Music : Senor Inzenga, Nos. 22 & 24, Calle Desen gano, teaches Spanish songs; for guitar, D. A. Moreno Segura, Mancebos, No. 3. Fencing Master: Gymnasium and Fencing School, Brutin, Plaza del Rey. Landscape and Portrait Photo- grapher : J. Laurent, Calle de San Geronimo, No. 39. Here photographic copies of the pictures in the Museo , and views from all Spain, may be obtained. 38 Sect. I. Boute 2. — Madrid : § 5. Cabs and Broughams, Tramways, Railway and Diligence Office. Cabs and Broughams : There are cab-stands in the Puerta del Sol, and in all the principal streets. When unoccupied, a card is stuck up above the driver’s seat, upon which is printed “ Se Aquila ” (For Hire). Fares.— One Horse — 2 Seats. rls. A course by day to 12.30 at night ... 4 From 12.30 at night to 5 a.m. in the summer and 6 in the winter . . .10 By the Hour. 1 or 2 persons until 12.30 at night ... 8 From 12.30 to 5 a.m. in summer and 6 in winter 14 Two Horses — 4 Seats. A course by day to 12.30 at night ... 8 From 12. 3u at night to 5 a.m. in summer and 6 in winter 14 By the Hour. Till 12.30 at night 12 From 12.30 to 5 a.m. in the morning in the summer and 6 in the winter . . 18 Carriages with horses in livery can be hired at the following places : Lazar o Sanchez, Calle de Alcala ; No. 4, Calle del Barquillo, and No. 4, Calle de San Miguel. Riding-horses for ladies and gentlemen, at No. 27, Calle de la Magdalena. Riding-master, Perelli, Calle del Arco de Sta. Maria. Average charges. Carriage, pair of horses, &c., per rls. month 3000 to 3500 Carriage, pair of horses, &c., per day . . 100 ,, ,, for 4 hours. . 60 Saddle-horse per day, for lady or gentleman 2 Tramivctys , laid down by an English Company from Puerta del Sol, go all over the town to rly. stats, and Bull Ring, and as far as Carabanchel, Leganes, and the Moncloa gardens, a charming walk ; entrance fee, 2 r. Excellent omnibuses ply through the different streets. Railways. Travellers are warned that if they wish to obtain a corner seat in the railway -carriage, they must be at the station themselves, or send a servant from the hotel to secure their place a full hour before the train starts. A Cabs , Bailways , &c. “ coupe ” can be had at the northern line only, by writing 24 hours before- hand to the station-master (Adminis- trador del ferro carril del Norte). Pullman’s cars are to be had on the northern line — the places have to be secured beforehand, at 14 Puerta del Sol. The booking offices of the diligences are at the' following addresses : — Del Norte y Mediodia , Segovia and La Granja, No. 2, Calle del Correo, and No. 18, Calle de Alcala. Las Estrellas, No. 4, Calle de Alcala (for Cuenca). An express train leaves Madrid for Seville, on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, returning on the alternate days. Express to Zaragoza and Barcelona, Wednesdays and Saturdays. The ex- press from Barcelona leaves on Mon- days and Thursdays. § 6. Shops, Tradespeople. Shops: The best shops are in the vicinity of the Puerta del Sol, the Calles Mayor, Montera, Carretas, San Geronimo, del Carmen, &c. The wares are almost all foreign — French, Ger- man, and English — and as a rule dear. It is necessary to hint that, as fixed prices are the exception with Spanish tradesmen, some reductions in prices first asked must always be in- sisted upon. Booksellers: Murillo, No. 10, Calle de Alcala. This, bookseller publishes a monthly bulletin, and has old books for sale; also Murray's “ Handbooks.' ’ Fe, 2 Carrera de San Geronimo. Bailey-Bailliere, 8 Plaza Sta. Ana. Chemist: Melgosa, No. 13, Calle de Infantas. N.B. Remember to ask es- pecially for English drugs. Fancy Articles: Bach, No. 22, Ca- ballero de Gracia, for modern Spanish fans very cleverly painted. Serra, No. 15, Caballero de Gracia, where old fans may be found. Colomina, Carrera de San Geronimo, for common cheap fans. Eibar ivork (iron inlaid with silver and gold) : Felipa Guisasola, Precia- 39 The Casfciles. Route 2. — Sight dos 35, strongly recommended. Leon Ecuriazu, Carrera San Geronimo, No. 39. Glovers : Lafin, Calle de la Montera, No. 28. La Exposicion de Yiena, No. 20, Calle de Atocba, where cheap Spanish gloves can be procured, price 10 r. for gloves of 2 buttons and up- wards. Music Shop : Eomero, Calle de Pre- ciados, where Spanish national music may be found. Antiquities : Dominguez & Co., Pu- erta del Sol ; Eafael Garcia, Plaza del Angel 10 ; Nemesio Villajos, 24 Yal- verde ; Lorenzo Bonet, Magdalena 10. Spanish Church Silks and Brocades : Garin, No. 2, Calle Mayor; Eguiluz, Nos. 19 & 21, Calle Mayor. Gentlemen's Hairdresser : Prats, Calle del Carmen. Hatter : Villasante, Calle de Alcala, No. 28. Jeivellers : Ansorena and Marzo, both in the Carrera San Geronimo ; Samper, Calle del Carmen. T Mantillas , Laces , &c. : Escolar, Calle Mayor 1 ; Eabrica de Almagro, Calle de la Cruz ; Margarit, Calle del Car- men. Modista : Madame Ysolina, Alcala 12 . Perfumery : Perfumeria Xnglesa, Calle de Sevilla. Shirt Maker : Escribano, Puerta del Sol. Stationery: La Azucena, No. 20, Calle San Geronimo. Tailor : Munoz y Pedraza, Calle Mayor. § 7. Sight-seeing, Squares, Gates, The Eivee, Canals, Bridges. Sight-seeing at Madrid. — There are not many sights at Madrid. The picture gallery, the Palace, Armeria, Museo Arqueologico, and Eetiro, are all that the ordinary sightseer will care to see. The town itself is a second- rate Paris. The stranger will find at the principal hotels a laquais-de-place, should he require one. The Museo of pictures is open every day ; that of artillery on Tuesdays and Fridays; '-seeing ; Squares. the Eoyal stables every day ; the Armeria, every day till 3 ; but as these matters change, previous inquiries should be made : generally a silver key opens most doors to a polite visitor, who has a judicious laquais. It is as well to take your passport, as greater facilities are afforded to foreigners. Advertisements will also be found as to these and other tra- vellers’ wants in the various daily papers, and Diario de Avisos ; in them are also announced the different sights, religious pageants, theatres, bull-fights, sales, festivals, and other popular amusements. Public Squares . — Puerta del Sol. Everyone must begin with this cele- brated square, this mythical “ gate- way ” which is now the centre of the capital, although once it was the east gate, on which the rising sun shone ; the gate has long since gone, and this plaza is situated in the middle of the long line of streets which run E. and W., from the Prado by the Calle de Alcala, and then by the Calle Mayor. At this point two other im- portant streets, the C. de la Montera and C. de Carretas, running N. and S., cross the other two almost at right angles. Thus the Puerta del Sol is the centre where all the great arteries of circulation meet and diverge, and where the chief pulse of Madrid life beats hardest, and the high tides of affairs flow and ebb. All the lines of tramways meet there. Its south side is occupied by the Ministerio de la Gobernacion (the Home Office), a square isolated edifice raised in 1768 for Charles III., by one Jaime Marquet. On the east side stands the Fonda de Paris. The handsome pile of build- ings, of which it forms part, was raised upon the ruins of the Ch. of Buen Suceso, where occurred one of the saddest scenes in the annals of Madrid. On this spot Murat perpetrated one of his terrorist butcheries (2nd May, 1808 ) ; many of his victims lie buried on the spot. Here also was murdered the Canon Matias Yinuesa, on the 4th May, 1821. 40 Sect. I. Route 2. — Madrid : Squares . The Puerta del Sol is the rendezvous of the newsmonger, the scandalmonger, the empleado ; and of every other idle do-nothing Madrilenian. In old days these gents were buzzers about of “reports from the best informed circles,” whilst with fierce flashing eyes, and capas thread - bare worn and seedy, they would cluster like bees around the animated reader of some authentic letter. 5 ’ But nowa- days, in the march of Parisian civili- zation, the clubs and morning papers are fast putting an end to this Puerta del Sol lounging, whilst the national and picturesque costume, the capa and the sombrero, are rapidly giving way to the cylinder hat, and the close- fitting overcoat. Those who wish to study the every-day dress of the bull- fighters, will, however, still find good specimens lounging about under the Hotel de Paris in the afternoons and in the Cafe Imperial. Plaza Mayor. This is the grand square of Madrid. The houses have been subject to many fires. The square, some 2450 ft. above the sea, was erected in 1619, by Juan de Mora; the superb equestrian bronze statue of Philip III. in its centre was cast by Juan de Bologna, from a drawing made by Pantoja. Left un- finished by Juan de Bologna, it was completed by Pedro Tacca, whose brother-in-law, Antonio Guidi, brought it to Madrid in 1616. During the Red Republic of 1873 it was pulled down by the mob and hidden away, but on the restoration it was replaced. On this Plaza the executions, Autos de Fe, and the Fiestas Beales , or royal bull-fights, were celebrated ; here our Charles I. beheld one given in his hon- our by Philip IY. The locality, 434 ft. long by 334 wide, was well adapted for spectacles. By a clause in their leases the inmates of houses were bound on these occasions to give up their front rooms and balconies, which were then fitted up as boxes. The royal seat was prepared on the part called La Panaderia, the saloons of which, painted in fresco by Claudio Coello and Donoso, were destined by Charles III. for the Academy of History, which had here a library, which was removed with the present Academy into the Calle del Leon. This square is now converted into a beautiful garden, and under the arcades will be found shops of Spanish toys. Coarse torchon laces, fit for decoration, and the effective cotton handkerchiefs worn by the peasantry, may also be bought in the Plaza Mayor. From here go down the Calle de Toledo to see the open shops from which hang the gay red and yellow bay etas or flannels which form such a picturesque part in the costume of the lower classes in Spain. Observe also the mantas , or rugs which are made at Valencia and elsewhere, the long woollen or silk sashes (fajas) which are worn by most Spaniards, and the many guitar shops. The best Yalencian mantas to be had at Madrid are to be had at the Posada del Peine, Calle de Postas. Piazuela de la Villa. This square opens on one side to the Calle Mayor. The large house near the Casa del Ayuntamiento was long the town resi- dence of the Duques del Infantado, and where Ferdinand and Isabel also lived. The balcony is pointed out — looking upon the Calle del Sacramento — where Cardinal Ximenes, in answer to a deputation of disaffected nobles who asked him by what authority he assumed the regency, pointed to his artillery and soldiery in the court beloAV. The palace belonged to the Duque de Osuna, the heir of the In- fantados : this nobleman, the most illustrious in descent of Spain, united no less than 17 grandeeships in him- self, i.e. (in Spanish parlance), “ el tiene diez y siete sombreros .” On the left is the CasadeLujanes, in which Francis I. was imprisoned after his defeat at Pavia (Feb. 24, 1525) until removed Jan. 14, 1526, to the Alcazar. Here he plighted his word of a king to treaties which, forgetting his chivalrous lament after Pavia, “ Tout est perdu hors rhonneur,” he violated the instant lie crossed the Bidassoa and touched the sacred soil of France. The Casa del Ayuntamiento (or Man- 41 The Oastiles. Route 2. — Squares ; Gardens , dr. sion -house) was built in the 16th centy. ; the portals are later and bad ; the patio and staircase inside are plain. At the balcony overlooking the Calle Mayor the Duke of Wellington, enter- ing Madrid as a deliverer, presented himself amidst the applause of the citizens. Plaza de Oriente: in front of the Royal Palace, and of the Royal Italian Opera House. It is in the form of an oval, and its outer promenade is orna- mented with 44 colossal statues of kings and queen s. In the centre of the pretty gardens is a superb equestrian statue of Philip IV., one of the finest in the world, which was moved in 1844 from the Buen Retiro gardens. It represents Philip IV. mounted on his wmr charger, witching the world with noble horsemanship, and seen as became a king who was pronounced to be “ absolutely the best horseman in Spain.” This grand monument is in fact a solid Velasquez. Montanes carved the model in wood, while the bronze was cast at Florence in 1640, by Pedro Tacca. See the inscription on the saddle-girth. It is 19 ft. high, and weighs 180 cwt., yet the horse cur- vets, supported by the hind-legs, and the mane and scarf absolutely appear to float in air ; the great Galileo, it is said, suggested the means by which the balance is preserved. As this fine thing was comparatively lost in the Retiro, it was often before proposed to move it into Madrid ; but the minister Grimaldi declared that to be too great an honour for an Austrian king, and protested that he would only consent if the head of Philip were cut off, and the Bourbon head of Charles III. sub- stituted — a pantomimic change worthy of the greater clown Grimaldi. But so Caligula wished to put his own hideous head on a Jupiter by Phidias (Suet. 22) ; so the toady Claudius cut the head of Alexander from a picture of Apelles to substitute that of Augustus (Pliny, xxxv. 2). The bassi-relievi represent the knighting of Velasquez by Philip IV., with allegorical accom- paniments. Plaza de Isabel Segunda. This is an open space and garden behind the Royal Opera House; it contains a statue in white marble of the Drama. Plaza de las Cortes: in front of the Spanish House of Commons. It con- tains a bronze statue of Miguel de Cervantes, modelled by Antonio Sola of Barcelona, and cast in bronze by a Prussian named Hofgarten. Dressed in the old Spanish costume, he hides under his cloak his arm mu- tilated at Lepanto, which he never did in life, it being the great pride of his existence. The reliefs on the pedestal representing Don Quijote’s adventures were designed by Jose Piquer ; the cost was defrayed out of the Bula de Gru- zada : thus Cervantes, who when alive was ransomed from Algiers by the monks of Merced, when dead owed to a religious fund this tardy monument. Plazuela de la Cruz Verde. A cross in the centre of this little square marks the site where the last victim of the Inquisition in Madrid was burnt at the stake. Plazuela de la Cebada: this is the “hay” or “grass-market,” where cri- minals were formerly executed. The artist and naturalist will come here to study produce and the costume of the peasantry from the outlying districts in the large glass-and-iron market built here by an English company. Gates . — Puerta de Alcala, to the E. of the city. The walls have been pulled down, and the gate has been left surrounded by gardens and large houses. It is the only fine triumphal arch in Madrid. It was designed by Sabatini, and erected at the command of Charles III. to commemorate his entrance into Madrid. The gate con- sists of 5 arches, and is 72 ft. high. Puerta de Toledo, to the S. of the city, leading to the Puente de Toledo. It was erected by Ferdinand VII. upon his return from Valen^ay. It is a work of no architectural merit. Puerta de San Vicente, to the W. 42 Boute 2. — Madrid : The Biver ; Canals . Sect. I. of the city, is the gateway leading to the pleasant Paseo de la Florida, Moncloa, and to the Northern Rail- way Station. The River. — Madrid is situated on the side of the Manzanares, which river finds its source about 21 m. from the city, near the small village from which it takes its name. It is in reality but a mountain-torrent, and although scarcely furnishing water for the washerwoman, has fed the dry humour of Spanish wags and satirists from Quevedo, Gongora, and down- wards for centuries. It is entitled a river by courtesy, because it has bridges — superfluous, luxurious — which many streams in Spain have not. In this land of anomalies, rivers often want bridges, while bridges want water and rivers. The enormous bridges of Madrid, about which there is no mistake, are however (as at Valencia) not quite pontes asinorum , since they serve as viaducts across the dip, and sometimes the rain-torrents descend from the Guadarrama in such a body that even their gigantic piers are threatened by the inundations; however, the deluge soon passes away, spent in its own fury. The dryshod foot-passenger during the dog-days almost crosses without knowing it, as in Lucan (ix. 974) : — “ Inscius in sicco serpentem pulvere rivum Transierat, cjui Xanthus erat.” Gongora, besides sundry profane and scurvy jests, likened this river-god, whose urn is so often dry, to the rich man in flames calling for one drop of water. Tirso de Molina’s epigram compares it to the long vacations in summer of universities : — “ Como Alcala y Salamanca Teneis y no sois Colegio, Vacaciones en Verano Y curso solo en Invierno.” The water of this anatomy, which has the form of a river without the circulation, is enticed into holes by naiads, to whom are committed the shirts and shifts, los paiios menores , of Madrid. The lavation is garrulous and picturesque, for brightly do the parti-coloured garments glitter in the sun. The Canal de Manzanares was pro- jected in 1668 to connect Madrid with the Tagus. It commenced at the bridge of Toledo; but was never completed farther than Vacia Madrid (distant 6 m. in an easterly direction), and was filled up in 1866. The Canal de Lozoya, which supplies Madrid with abundant and excellent water, begins at Torrelaguna, 32 m. from hence, and is a fine piece of engineering. Don Lucio del Valle, the engineer, was created Marques del Lozoya. The Heposito is in the Calle de Bravo Murillo, outside the Fuen- carral gate. It is a pleasant walk. Bridges . — Puente de Segovia, a hand- some stone bridge of 9 arches, over the river Manzanares : it' is 695 ft. long by 31 ft. broad, and was constructed by the architect Juan de Herrera for Philip II. The view from this bridge, looking towards the snowy range of the Guadarrama, is very striking. Puente de Toledo. — This bridge is also composed of 9 arches, which are remarkable for the elegance and sim- plicity of their construction : it is 385 ft. long and 36 ft. wide. Obs. in the centre the hideous statues of San Isidro and his wife, looking out for water. § 8. Peomenades and Public Gaedens. El Prado. — This is the grand boule- vard of Madrid. It extends from the Paseo de Atocha to the Paseo de Recoletos, a distance of 2J m. As its name indicates, it was once a meadow , but it was turned into a promenade by Charles III., and is divided into 4 principal paseos. The Paseo del Bota- nico extends from the Calle de Atocha to the Fuente de Neptuno ; the Salon del Prado lies between the Fuente de Neptuno and the Fuente de Cibeles, and is the fashionable lounge in sum- The Castiles. Route 2. — Promenades. 43 mer. From the fountain of Cibeles begins the Paseo de Eecoletos, which continues along the Fuente Castellana to the new Hippodromo. El Salon del Prado is a promenade, 1450 ft. long and 240 ft. broad. On one side of it is the obelisk of the Dos de Mayo, raised to the names of the victims of Murat, on what is called El Campo de la Lealtad — The Field of Loyalty. This memorial was begun in 1814 by the Cortes. The obelisk is enclosed in a little square, sur- rounded by funereal-looking cypress- trees. The Spanish heroes of the Dos de Mayo were named Jacinto Ruiz, Luis Daoiz, and Pedro Velarde, whose brother was made Vizconde del Dos de Mayo in the year 1852. The bloody truth is soon told. Murat, who in his heart aspired to the throne of Castile, arrived at Madrid, March 23, 1808, professedly as a friend ; but having been received with angry cries r by the mob, he determined to strike a blow of terrorism, and accordingly indis- criminately seized upon some hundreds of the citizens — young and old, lay and clergy — who were tried by court- martial, condemned to death, and exe- cuted on the Prado as being the most public place.* The three heroes who figure on the obelisk were officers of artillery, who, upon the occasion of the massacre, refused to surrender their cannon to the French. Indi- rectly this brave deed saved Spain, for the news reached England just as the Duke was being sent to South America. It led to his being landed at Mondego Bay instead, and thus to the delivery of the Peninsula. On the 2nd May a solemn ceremony is held here by the authorities of the town, who go in procession to the obelisk to funeral masses performed for the souls of the murdered heroes. Masses are said at 4 altars from daybreak till midday, and the scene is very animated and picturesque. A marble group of Daoiz and Velarde, by Sola, has been placed * The appalling details ave given by Toreno and Blanco White (Lett. XII.), who were eye- witnesses: see also Foy(m-i72) and Schepeler in front of the principal facade of the Gallery (Museo de Pinturas). One of the entrances to the Retiro passes by the square of the Dos de Mayo. The new Museo de Reproducciones is to the 1. A good panorama of the Battle of Tetuan may be visited, which is opposite the Picture Gallery. Of 8 fountains of the Prado, those of Neptune, Apollo, and Cybele are most admired ; but these stony things count as nothing when compared to the living groups of all ages, colour, and costume, which walk and talk, ogle and nod, or sit and smoke in the summer evenings. Although a so-called meadow , the name is a modest misnomer, after the fashion of Les Champs-Elysees of Paris. Numberless iron chairs (2 quartos, = \d. each) are placed in rows, back to back, under the long lines of trees, and are much patronised during the Carnival and summer nights. Ragged urchins run about with farthing boxes of wax vestas for smokers, i.e . for 99 out of 1 00 males ; whilst aguadores follow with icy-cold water. The Prado can only be seen to advantage during summer evenings, where, as it is near the town, the inhabitants go to tomar el fresco. Since the gar- dens of the Buen Retiro have been thrown open to the public, it has become the fashionable drive and pro- menade, and the Prado is deserted the rest of the year. Paseo de la Fuente Castellana. This promenade, which leads to the Hippo- drome, w T here the races take place in spring and autumn, was laid out by Espartero during his regency ; it is but a continuation of the Recoletosto theN. It is ornamented with an obelisk, sur- rounded by a parterre. The centre forms a broad avenue, a side avenue is set apart for horsemen, and shady 'walks on either side are reserved for pedestrian loungers. Fine houses, sur- rounded by gardens, have been built on each side of this promenade. Paseo de Atocha, which lies between the Calle de Atocha and the ch. of Atocha. It is a favourite winter pro- 44 Sect. I. Route 2. — Madrid : Gardens . menade for invalids, being sheltered by rising ground to the N., and open to the valley of the Manzanares to the S. The Anatomical Museum may be visited by those interested in such things ; it is in this Paseo. The Sep- tember fair is held here. Faseo de las Delicias. The new railway station to Toledo is in this Paseo. This arid walk commences at the Paseo de Atocha, and extends to the banks of the canal Manzanares. Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto, near the river to the W. of the city, is a favourite holiday promenade for the lower classes. It extends from the Puerta de Segovia to the Puerta de S. Vicente. Paseo de la Florida. This is a con- tinuation of the promenade de la Virgen , to the N. It commences at the Puerta San Vicente, and terminates at the ch. of San Antonio de la Florida, where there are some good frescoes painted by Goya. On the E. side of this promenade, above the N. Railway terminus, is the Montana del Principe Pio, crowned by infantry barracks. This hill should be ascended, as it commands fine views of the town, and especially of the Royal Palace. Barrio de Salamanca. This is a new and fashionable quarter of the town, laid out by the Marquis of Sala- manca in handsome streets. It is now inhabited by 32,000 people. Gardens. — Buen Retiro. This large extent of pleasure-grounds was laid out by the Conde Duque de Olivares, as a “ pleasant retreat ” for Philip IV., in order to divert his attention from politics and his country’s decay. Here were erected (1630) a palace and a theatre, in which the plays of Lope de Vega were acted. Both were burnt down in 1734, when many fine pictures by Titian and Velasquez perished. The palace was rebuilt by Ferdinand VI., but was much damaged by the French, who selected this commanding posi- tion for a strong military post. After the Revolution of 1868, what was left of it was pulled down, and the building now used as the Ar- tillery Museum, and the old “ Cason,” now the Museo de Reproducciones, are all that remain. The broad central avenue, and the numerous walks which branch out right and left, afford pleasant shady promenades in the spring and early summer. The chief avenue, which is decorated with statues of Spanish kings and queens, termi- nates at the margin of El Estanque, a diminutive lake 250 yards long by 125 yards broad, upon which there are boats for hire. Since the Revolution of 1868, the whole of the gardens has been thrown open to the public, and a fine carriage- road was made under the superintend- ence of the Duke of Fernan Nunez, who, as a member of the Ayuntamiento, had for some time tlie care of the gardens. This drive runs from the gate in the Calle de la Venta past the Casa de Fieras (house for wild beasts) to the Paseo de Atocha, and is now the fashionable drive in winter from 4 till 6, in summer from 6 till 8, and is well worth a visit. Parallel to it is a road for riders, and also a footpath shaded by a fine avenue of Wellingtonias. At the end of this avenue there is a view over the arid country, the only landmark being a small hill crowned with a chapel, called either El Cerro de los Angeles, or the centre of Spain . At the upper end of the Buen Re- tiro is a mound, with a sort of sum- mer-house, called El Belvedere, and justly so, as it commands a panoramic view of Madrid. The rustic cottage, called La Casa Persa, is now a cafe and restaurant, and in summer is a pleasant place to dine at. Military bands play in the gardens during the summer months from 5 p.m. to 8. A winter-garden has lately been erected near the skating-pond, and a good Rink. Botanical Gardens. — These are situ- ated to the E. of the Paseo Botanico, and are fenced in with an iron rail. 45 The Castiles. Boute 2 . — Palace Ferdinand VI., in 1755, first founded these gardens in the Prado. They were removed to their present position in 1781, by the Oonde Florida Blanca. The Linnsean system was then adopted, and the plants were scientifically ar- ranged and classified by Cavanilles, under whom, when full of curious specimens, it was an oasis of Flora in the desert of the Castiles. The in- vaders converted this Eden into a wilderness, uprooting plant and shrub ; but when the Duke expelled the de- stroyers, the face of the earth was renewed, and Art and Nature revived. In the archives, the student will find several original and inedited letters by Linnseus and Goethe. A new School for Arts et Metiers is about to be built at the end of the Bo- tanical Gardens. The building near it in the Paseo de Atocha is the Ana- tomical Museum of Dr. Velasco. The Palace Gardens occupy part of the site of the Campo del More, which is mentioned in the comedies of Cal- deron and Lope de Vega. They were laid out by A. G. Arguelles, but are uninteresting. The fountain in the centre is most beautiful. § 9. Royal Palace. It is shown by permission (pape- leta) from the mayor domo , or from the Intendente de la Casa Beal, when their Majesties are absent from Madrid. To enter the stables, apply at the door, and one of the head grooms will show you over. The guard is relieved at the Royal Palace at a quarter before 10, so that persons intending to see the Chapel or Armeria are advised to go at that time ; they will then see detachments of the best Spanish ca- valry, infantry, and mountain artil- lery, and hear some good military music. The manoeuvres last about 20 minutes. The chapel is open to the public free. The Royal Palace of Madrid is cer- tainly one of the most magnificent in the world, although its exterior does not quite satisfy when nearly ap- Gardens ; Boyal Palace, proached and examined. The square port-holes of the entresuelos (called “Quita ruidos’’ by Spaniards), and the irregular, unsightly chimney-pots, mar the elevation and destroy the general effect. It has two open plazas : that to the E., de Oriente, was begun by Murat, as a sort of Place du Car- rousel; but the invaders, having de- molished eighty-seven houses, just left the space a desert of dust and glare, and impassable in the dog-days. Fer- dinand VII. removed the ruins, had the locality levelled, and commenced a theatre and colonnade. The Royal Palace occupies the site, some say, of the original outpost Alcazar of the Moors, which Enrique IV. made his residence. This was burnt down on Christmas-eve, 1734, when Philip V. determined to rebuild a rival to Ver- sailles, and Felipe de Jubara, a Sicilian, prepared the model. The architect judiciously wished to change the site for the San Bernardino hill, but Eliza- beth Farnese, the queen, whose ambi- tion it was to advance her children, grudged the expense, and combined en camarilla with the minister Patino : so many difficulties were made, that Jubara died of hope deferred. Philip then directed Giovanni Battista Sac- chetti, of Turin, to prepare a smaller and less expensive plan, which, the queen not objecting, was adopted April 7, 1737. It is a square of 470 feet each way, by 100 feet high, but the wings and the hanging gardens are unfinished. The rustic base is of granite ; the window- work of white stone of Colmenar, which in the bright sun glitters as a fair palace of marble. Visit it also at moonlight, when, in the silent death- like loneliness, the pile looms like a ghostly thing of the enchanter, or a castle of snow. On the heavy balus- trade above stood a series of heavier royal statues, some of which now adorn the Plaza de Oriente and the avenues of the gardens of the Buen Retiro. The principal entrance is to the S., and disappoints ; it leads into a huge patio of some 240 feet square, with a glazed upper gallery like a manufac- tory. Between the arches are several 46 Sect. I. Route 2. — Madrid : bad statues by De Castro, Olivieri, &c., of Spanish. Roman emperors — Trajan, Adrian, Honorius, and Theodosius. The bewigged smirking statue of Charles III. is no better : it disfigures the grand staircase, which is noble in design and easy of ascent. It is said, when Buonaparte ascended these stately steps, that he told his brother Joseph, “Vous serez mieux loge que moi.” ITe laid his hand on one of the white marble lions, exclaiming, “ Je la tiens enfin, cette Espagne, si desiree ! ” But the French at last discovered that Spain is a morsel easier to be swal- lowed than digested. (Flores, ii. 17. 8.) The Duke shortened their tenure : he entered Madrid in triumph after the victory of Salamanca, on the 12th of August, 1812, and was lodged in this palace. Few things can be more tiresome than a foreign palace, a house of vel- vet, tapestry, gold, lords of the bed- chamber, &c. Yet this is a truly royal residence, in which the most pre- cious marbles are used prodigally in floorings and doorways. The multi- tudinous French clocks were the espe- cial hobby of Ferdinand VII. On these walls hung those glorious pic- tures, now in the Museo, which that monarch ejected to put up silk hang- ings. The vaults and store-rooms were filled with fine old furniture; after his death a gigantic removal went on as regards jewels and everything of portable value ; but since the restora- tion of Don Alfonso, the Palace at Madrid has been put into first-rate order, a number of fine bronzes, clocks, and porcelain vases have been found in the china closets, and now adorn the principal rooms. The chief saloon is called de Em- bajadores, or the Reception or Throne room, and its decorations are indeed most princely ; the rock crystal chan- deliers, colossal looking-glasses cast at San Ildefonso, the marble tables, crimson and gildings, will enchant lovers of royal magnificence. Among the interesting porphyry busts of the 16th cent, in this room, obs. two fine Roman white marble busts of the sons of Agrippina. Here the sovereigns : Royal Palace. of the Spains receive on grand occa- sions when alive, and when dead are laid out in state. The ceiling is painted by Tiepolo with the “ Majesty of Spain,” in illustration of the virtues of the kings, and the manliness of the people, who are represented in the different costumes of the provinces. The most admired ceilings are the apotheosis of Trajan and the Aurora, in the 21st room, by Mengs. Notice the splendid Gabinete fitted up with china. The whole room is lined with Buen Retiro ware, made at Madrid by the artists whom Charles III. brought with him from the manu- factory of Capo di Monte, at Naples. There are few pictures left in the Palace worthy of notice, excepting some portraits of the royal family of Spain by Goya. The views from the windows which overlook the river are true landscapes of the Castilian school : the slopes un- der the royal eye, long left in rugged, ragged, mangy deformity, are now levelled or terraced. How the magic wand of the Moor would have clothed the waste with flowers and verdure, and raised hanging gardens and foun- tains, in imitation of those on the declivity of the Alhambra, which, although artificial, rival Nature her- self ! Below trickles the Manzanares with its great name and scanty stream : beyond stretch the ragged woods of the Casa del Campo, and then the hopeless tawny steppes, bounded by the icy Guadarrama, whose sharp out- line cuts the bright sky, and whose snowy heights freeze the gale; all is harsh and torrid, colourless and blanched, but yet not devoid of a cer- tain savage grandeur. The Palace, from standing on an eminence, ex- posed directly to the winds from the snowy Guadarrama, is so bitterly cold in winter that the sentinels are some- times frozen to death. The royal chapel lies to the N., and is on a level with the state rooms. It is still splendid, although plundered in 1808 by Gen. Belliard, who car- ried off the pictures painted for Philip II. by Michael Coxis : this general, from having been governor The Castiles. Haute 2 . — Public Libraries . 47 of Brussels, and knowing tlieir local value, sent his spoil there to be sold. The order is Corinthian, the marbles rich, the stucco gilt. The ceiling was painted by Giaquinto. Here figure San Isidro, the tutelar of Madrid, and Santiago, the patron of Spain. The foundations only of a larger chapel are laid. The fine ecclesiastical objects at the Royal Chapel are of immense value. They are arranged in glass cases for inspection. At different times in the year* the galleries leading from the royal chapel are hung with the mag- nificent and unique tapestries which belong to the crown of Spain. Photo- graphs of the entire collection may be had at Laurent’s. The Palace Library belonging to the Crown contains a valuable collection of about 100,000 books and MSS. Amongst the illuminated missals is a Prayer-book said to have belonged to Ferdinand and Isabel the Catholic, or to their daughter Juana la Loca, whose portrait it contains. The binding is adorned with exquisite ornaments and the arms of Leon and Castile in enamel. The MS. 'letters of Gon- domar, the Spanish Ambassador in London during the reign of J ames I., are of especial interest to the English student. The library may be seen through an introduction to the accom- plished librarian, Senor Zarco del Yalle, and permission obtained to read and study in it. Now visit La Real G ocher a and Las Gaballerizas. These enormous coach- houses and stables lie to the N.E. of the palace ; the latter are filled with the horses which convey the Koyal family to their daily drives. This museum contains carriages and hearses of all forms and ages, from the cum- brous state-coach to the Cupid-be- dizened car, from the oldest coche de colleras to the newest equipage de Paris. Do not fail to see the harness- room. § 10. Public Libraries. The Biblioteca National is placed at the corner of the Calle de la Biblioteca, * Epiphany, Easter, and Corpus Christi. on the Plaza de Oriente, in a house which once belonged to the Alcahices family, but the handsome fittings-up of walnut and gilt capitals were put up by Godoy. Open daily from 10 to 3. It contains about 230,000 volumes, is well conducted, and the cool and quiet are truly refreshing after the dust and glare of the streets. It is rich in Spanish literature, especially theology and topography, and possesses some curious MSS. illuminated in Spain in the 11th and 12th centys., and known by the name of Beatos , as they con- tain this author’s commentaries of the Apocalypse. Several fine illuminated missals of the 14th and 15th centys. Obs. a very small voh, bound in green, with minute figures in the manner of Julio Clovio. The original testament of Isabel la Catolica, and a large collection of autographs, will interest the amateur. In the MSS. Depart- ment may be seen the collection of prints, principally formed from the important series bought in 1865 from Don Valentin Carderera. This library has been much increased, numerically , since the suppression of convents : the accession, however, has been rather in works of supererogation, ancient books and monkish lore ; good modern books are here, as in most other Spanish libraries, the things needful ; but want of funds, as usual, is the cause. The new Biblioteca Nacional is in course of construction in the Paseo de Recoletos. Biblioteca of the University, Calle Ancha de San Bernardo, which con- tains 24,000 vols. ; open free from 10 a.m. to 2 P.M. Biblioteca de San Isidro, Calle de Toledo, No. 45, contains above 50,000 vols. : open in summer from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. ; in winter from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Biblioteca of the Academy of History, Calle de Leon. This library contains many MSS. of great interest, also several early editions of rare and valu- able works. Biblioteca of Don Pascual de Gayan- gos, Calle del Barquillo 4. Here can 48 Route 2. — Madrid: Armeria Real . Sect. I, be examined one of the most com- plete collections of Arabic MSS. which exist in Europe. Biblioteca of the Duke of Yeraguas, Calle de San Mateo, contains many interesting MSS. connected with Co- lumbus and his times. Biblioteca of the Duke of Osuna, Calle de Don Pedro, containing about 75,000 vols. Biblioteca of Gen. San Roman. One of the most complete military libraries in Europe. § 11. Royal Armoury. Armeria Real. This noble gallery is all that now remains of the old Alcazar. It fronts the S. fa 9 ade of theroyal palace, and contains one of the finest armouries in the world. The entrance is by a small door, on the outside of the Court, to the 1. of the large gateway. Open every day from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on the payment of a small fee. Foreigners with passports admitted gratis. The collection is contained^ in one spacious saloon, 227 ft. long by 36 ft. wide; the saloon was built by Gaspar de la Yega, in 1565, for Philip II., when he removed the royal armoury from Val- ladolid. This, as it really contains weapons of all kinds, is a double curiosity, being the best provided arsenal in the land. It is the finest ancient armoury in Spain; for many of the others were gutted by the people in 1808, when they rose against the French. The people, not being able to procure weapons elsewhere, broke open the existing armouries, and thus were equipped with the identical wea- pons with which their ancestors had fought against their infidel invader. So the Romans were armed after their defeat at Cannae (Yal. Max. vii. 6). In this Armeria there exists a valu- able MS. catalogue of the time of Philip II., with drawings; a poor catalogue was published in 1793 by Ignacio Abadia; and a fine French w T ork, with engravings, by Gaspar Sensi, at Paris, 1838, with letterpress, full of inaccuracies, by Jubinal. Visi- tors should buy the catalogue, both as a guide here and as a book of reference for their libraries at home. The Arabic inscriptions have been translated by the accurate Gayangos ; the glossary will be found useful, and the marks or monograms used by the best armourists are cited and engraved. This Armeria deserves the most careful examina- tion, realizing history itself, and con- taining unique relics of Spain’s greatest epochs. In 1882 the Armoury was entirely re-arranged by Count Yalencia de Don Juan and Dr. Paulino Sabiron. The first entrance is striking, and worthy of this land of the Cid and chivalry ; it carries one back to the heroic age of Spain. Here are the swords of her noblest champions, the helmets of her wisest, and the breast- plates under which her greatest hearts beat. How these silent records realize history : wbat a contrast of the glorious past with the apathetic present ! All down the middle of the Saloon are drawn up equestrian figures ; while armed knights stand against the walls, surrounded in every direction with implements of war and tournament. Above hang banners taken from the enemy, while the walls are lined with coats of armour. The finest armour is foreign, Ger- man and Italian. One specimen, 557, is inscribed, “Desiderio Colman Cays: May : Harnishmagher ausgemacht in Augusta den 15 Aprilis, 1552.” By this Colman also is 2433, a black-and- gold helmet, dated 1550. The armour of Philip II., when Prince, has the arms of England engraved on it, in an escutcheon of pretence for his wife, our Mary. The so-called armour of Philip of Burgundy is inscribed “ Phi - lippus Jacobi et f rater Negroli facie- bant . ” Toledo furnished blades of the finest temper : but the most highly wrought artistical armour came from Augsburg and Milan. Obs. in glass case near the entrance all the chased shields of these fine Milan artists, especially Nos. 990 and 1666, with The Castiles. Boute 2 . — Armeria Beal . 49 head of Minerva ; and 2316, a por- tion of a helmet. A most elegant steel gun, No. 2319, is inscribed “ Ilizome en Ricla , Christobal Fris- leva , ano 1565.” Here are helmets said to have been worn by Han- nibal and Julius Caesar : the latter one is evidently Italian, and of the 16tli century. The armour of the Cid is probably fictitious ; so, probably, is his saddle, No. 2311 ; and so, we fear, is his sword, Colada , 1727. If the suit said to have been worn by Isabel at the siege of Granada, and with the monogram Isabel worked on the vizor, is authentic, she must have been a portly dame. More probably it be- longed to the husband of Isabel, daughter of Philip II., Eegent of Flanders, who used his wife’s cipher from gallantry. Obs. No. 1666, a superb shield by Negroli, inscribed 1541, with a Medusa’s head; and another, studded with cameos, and given to Philip II. by a Duke of Savoy. Notice in adjoining case the Visigoth crowns ; the spurs and part of the mantle of St. Ferdinand. The armour of the Great Captain is authentic : there are four suits all richly chased, with a badge of two palm-trees issuing from a coronet. Remark, No. 1004, the peculiar coal- scuttle heaume (a box or haul — pot- de-fer), said to have been that of the Rey Chico, and a suit of armour, worked with silver filigree, given to Philip II. by the city of Pamplona. Obs. the armour of Guzman el Bueno, of Fernan Cortes, of John of Austria (worn at Lepanto), and of Columbus, No. 2355 ; it is black- and-white, with silver medallions ; also a suit of a German elector, heavy, square, web-footed, and short- legged — there is no mistaking the country of the wearer. The smaller suits, for Infantes, and young heroes, are military playthings. The Turkish banners were mostly taken at Lepanto. The collection of guns belonging to Charles ill. and Charles IY. is worthy of these royal gamekeepers ; many are inlaid with jewels, one — No. 2223 — was a present from Buonaparte, [Spain, 1882.] who soon after accepted from his friend his crown and kingdom. The collection of Swords is much more interesting ; for this weapon Spain has always been celebrated. Many are of undoubted authenticity, although some want confirmation, which is a sad pity, as these are the symbol relics of Spain’s heroic and best age ; they realize her ballad j Epos, her best poetry. Look at least with veneration at the scimitars of two creatures of romance : No. 1698, that of Bernardo del Carpio, a mythic personage, the personification of Spain’s antipathy to France ; and 1662, the celebrated Durindana, Du - vandal , of Roldan (Orlando) : this is of rich filigree, and no doubt is the identical blade with which he divided the Pyrenees. Obs. 1620, the equally authentic and formidable Montante , or double-handed falchion, of Garcia de Paredes, 453 ; for his armour see 453. Obs. in one of the central cases the swords of St. Ferdinand, No. 1654, the conqueror of Seville, 1248 ; No. 1705 is that-of gentle Queen Isabel, la Gatolica , one of the best of princesses. No. 1696 is the sword of Ferdinand V., and 1702 is that — one rather of state than battle — of the “ Great Captain,” and really one in every sense. This noble blade is used as the Estoque real , or sword of state, at the Royal Juras, when it is borne by the Conde de Oropesa. It is also used when knighthood is conferred on distinguished persons. Next remark the swords of Charles V., Philip II., Fernan Cortes, and No. 1769, that of Pizarro, in a steel sheath, given to Sir John Downie. In vain the historian will inquire for the sword which Francois I. surren- dered at Pavia ; it was given to Murat, March 30, 1808, and, to make the dishonour complete, surrendered by the Marquis de Astorga, whose duty, as Divisero de Madrid . it was to have guarded the relic. The ori- ginal sword of Francois I. is now in the Museum at Paris (an exact copy, No. 1766, is in the Armeria : it was E 50 Route 2. — Madrid : Armeria Real. Sect. I. the gift of the Infante Francisco, and was made by Senor Zuloaga). The implements of Tournaments and Hunting are extremely curious and complete, as the German love of heraldry and the lists flourished in the congenial soil of the Castries, the land of personal prowess and the hidalgo and Paso Honroso ; here, by the way, is the sword of the very Suero de Qui- nones, No. 1917. Obs. 1711, the hal- bert of Don Pedro the Cruel, and the liastas de gallardete , which were fixed on the wails of captured cities. The saddles and leather shields of the Moors are curious ; the shields, or Adargas , although light, resisted spear and sword ; their two hides are cemented together by a cement com- posed of herbs and camel-hair ; the forms are ovals, and ornamented with three tassels and the umbo or knob; they are the unchanged Cetrse of the Carthaginians and Iberians (see Pliny, 4 Nat. Hist/ xi. 39 ; San Isidoro, ‘ Or/ xviii. 12). Obs. the 35 suits of armour of Charles V., some chased in fine cinque- cento. The fronts are engraved with the Virgin (his tutelar), and the backs with either Santa Clara or Santa Bar- bara.* No. 2308 is a grand equestrian suit. Obs. particularly No. 2321. No. 2364 is interesting, as being the identical suit worn at the Battle of Muhlberg, and depicted in the por- trait by Titian; No. 2388 is that of Philip II., also painted by Titian. No. 2410 is the identical and pon- derous suit arrayed in which Charles V. entered Tunis, July 20, 1535. No. 2412 is his splendid Borgonota (casque), damascened and worked a la Cellini. The suits of Philip II. are very fine, especially those worked in black and gold. No. 2488 is one of the finest suits. The gorget of No. 2370, one of the 8 suits of Philip II., is of ex- quisite work. No. 2425 is the rude litter in which Charles V. was carried when suffering from the gout ; it is something be- tween a black coffin-like trunk and * Santa Barbara is the patroness of artillery. a Sclavonian kibitka. Obs. his four iron campaigning dinner-plates. 321 is the suit of armour of John Elector of Saxony, taken prisoner by Charles V. at Muhlberg, in 1547. 402 is the panoply of Don John of Austria, natural son of Charles V., and the victor of Lepanto. Among the ele- gant suits for children obs. one, 630, given by the celebrated Duke of Osuna to Philip III. when young. 901 and 975 belonged to Francisco de Avalos , the Marquis of Pescara, one of the best generals of Charles V. 927, Garcilaso de la Vega, general and poet, killed in battle in 1536 (a death unusual to the tuneful tribe). 1132, Juan de Padilla, general of the Comu- neros , who was beaten at Villalar, and executed in 1520. 1249, lialf-suit of Alonso de Cespedes , killed in 1569, one of the Samsons or strong men of Charles V. 1501, and the following, are Turkish relics taken Oct. 5, 1571, at Lepanto, the Trafalgar of its day. 1598 is the sword of Boabdil, the last of his race, the loser of Granada, and truly called El Zogoibi, the unfortu- nate. 1614 is one of the numerous Montantes, or double-handed swords, sent to Spanish kings by Popes, who used them — the kings — as their exe- cutioners. 1632 is the helm of Jaime el Conquistador , with the Drac pennat , or winged-dragon crest, of that illus- trious conqueror. 1644 is this true hero’s victorious sword. 1659 is the sword of Pelayo; which, if genuine, carries us back to the cradle of the Gotho-Hispano monarchy and to its immortal restorer. Lovers of true Toledan blades should look at 1692, a superb specimen, by Miguel Gantero , which was worn by Philip II. 1564 is an exquisite specimen of Toledan workmanship. Look at 1721, a blade by Sebastian Hernandez ; and also at 1773, a first-rate sword worn by Philip II. 1794 is an estoque, be- longing to Don Juan of Austria , a specimen of the rare Perrillo brand ; so also is 1807, the sword of Hernan Cortes. Look also at 1868, a grand shield in the Cellini style, with ovals of the Rape of the Sabines, &c. ; ditto, 1879, with the Triumph of Love for Tlie Oastiles. 51 Houte 2 . — Museo Arqueologico. subject. 1913 is the sword of the Conde Duque, the overrated premier of Philip IV. 1916 carries one back to the conquest of Granada . and is the sword of Garcilaso de la Vega, el que mato el Moro ; of that gallant soldier of the Virgin, who slew the Moor that mocked at her Ave Maria. 2309 is the suit of the fighting Bishop of Zamora, Antonio de Acuna, who was hung, in 1522, for high treason, by the famous Alcalde Ronquillo. No. 2332, imperfect, belonged to Alva, the Great Duke of Spain. 2399 is the elegant suit of Don Carlos, the ill-conditioned son of Philip II., about whose death poets have predicated much fiction. Obs. 2498, the equestrian statue of Hernando de Alarcon. 2521 is said to be the helmet of his prisoner Frangois I. § 12. Archeological Museum; Pri- vate Armouries. Museums oe Ar- tillery, Marine, and Natural History. Museo Arqueologico, — Caile de Em- baj adores 68. Open on ;week days from 10 to 3. Entrance, 2 reals for 1 or 6 persons. This Museum was founded by Queen Isabel, and opened by King Amadeo in 1871. It has been arranged in the gardens and small palace of the Casino de la Reina, in imitation of the Hotel de Cluny in Paris. The Casino was given by the corporation of Madrid to Dona Maria Isabel de Braganza on her marriage with Ferdinand VII. The nucleus of the Museum was formed of the following objects. The large and important collection of coins and medals which was for- merly at the National Library ; curio- sities of different kinds given to Charles III. by Don Pedro Davila in 1771 ; a variety of Chinese objects sent from the Philippine Islands ; the collection of objects brought from South America in 1776 by Ruiz and Pavon ; and the unique series of 600 specimens of ancient Peruvian pottery, collected from the tombs of the Incas, in 1788, by Don Baltasar Jaime, bishop of Trujilo. Much has been added since then to the Museum. The Spanish Government bought in 1873 the large collection of Roman antiquities which belonged to the Marquis of Salamanca. They had been collected by him in Italy during the excavations made for the construction of the Roman railroads, and were formerly at Vista Alegre, near Madrid. In 1874-75, the curious sculptures found in the excavations at Yecla, province of Alicante, were bought for this Museum. As no Catalogue exists, the visitor may find the following observations useful, to draw his atten- tion to the objects most worthy of notice. 1st Boom . — A Moorish wooden door from a ruined church at Daroca, 14th centy. ; two gateways of Mudejar architecture from the Aljaferia at Zaragoza ; a fine Hispano-Moresque vase of lustred ware, similar to one at the Alhambra ; a great variety of most interesting dishes of this same pottery, ornamented with coats of arms, in- scriptions, &c. ; a very remarkable bronze Moorish lamp, with inscription stating it belonged to Mohamed, 3rd King of Granada, a.d. 1305 ; the keys of Oran, which were given to Cardinal Ximenez ; some interesting ivory cas- kets with Arabic inscriptions ; and a silk textile fabric of the 13th centy. 2nd Boom . — A series of Tapestries, embroidered in high relief with silks and gold, the gift of the Conde Duke de Olivares to a convent of nuns at Madrid; a sedan-chair of the 18tli centy. ; two remarkable astrolabes, one made for Philip II., of which there is a reproduction at the Kensington Museum, the other dated 1067. the most ancient instrument of this kind which exists ; an interesting weighing- machine, made by Salinas at Madrid; an effective set of coro-seats from the convent of El Paular, near Segovia, 16th centy. ; some Romanesque capi- tals from San Juan de Campoo and Santa Maria de Mave, and several good old Spanish paintings on panel. 3rd Boom.-— A. Christian sarcophagus 52 Sect. I. Route 2 . — Madrid : Museo Arqueologico , of tlie 4th centy. ; tomb of an abbot, 14th centy., with interesting repre- sentations of his life and death; the sepulchres of Dona Ana de Mendoza, Dona Costanza de Castilla, and Pedro Boil. The statue of Don Pedro el Cruel must be observed : it is the only one that exists of this monarch, and was brought from his sepulchre at Santo Domingo el Real. 4 th Boom. — Two good majolica dishes, a good specimen of the school of Luca della Robbia; a variety of Buen Retiro biscuit-porcelain; some indifferent Spanish glass ; inferior specimens of Talavera and Alcora pot- tery, and a fine group of biscuit-porce- lain, marked Duke d’Angouleme. 5th Boom. — Dresden and Sevres por- celain from the china closets at the Palace, and a very beautiful set of Wedgwood jasper ware, which formed part of the cargo of a ship that was seized during the Peninsular War. Bronzes of the 16th centy. 6th Boom. — A very fine gun of the 17th centy., inlaid with garnets and cloisonne enamel ; an ivory cross which deserves special mention and atten- tion, with inscription “ Ferdinandus Rex Sancia Regina,” and is one of the most interesting ivories which exist of the 11th centy.; Yisigothic and Arabic ornaments from Guarrazar and Andalucia ; a crosier given by the Anti-Pope Luna to his sister, the abbess of a convent in Aragon ; several ivory diptychs and caskets of interest. The visitor must here cross the garden to go to the building where the Roman antiquities and medals are arranged. 1st Boom. — Chiefly contains inscrip- tions. Obs. one with Iberic characters. 2nd Boom. — The celebrated bronze tablets found at Osuna, and bought by the Government, must be observed. They contain part of the 61 chapters, and the whole of the following until the 82 inclusive, of the colonial laws 1 given by Julius Caesar to the colony which he founded under the name of Genetiva JvMa , 3rd Boom. — Etruscan and Greek vases from the Salamanca collection, some of which are very fine ; bronzes, &c. 4 th Boom. — Roman bronzes, Roman and Greek glass, and personal orna- ments. 5th Boom. — Roman sarcophagus found at Husillos ; a well (Puteal) with figures representing the Birth of Minerva, Greek, or copy from the Greek; 12 mosaics for hanging against a wall, brought by Charles III. from Herculaneum, representing the games at a Roman circus. 6th Boom. — The visitor must espe- cially observe the curious sculptures contained in this room. (See Introd. Spanish Sculpture.) They appear to belong to the first centuries of the Christian era. The attributes and em- blems of draperies of these statues must be noticed, and inscriptions in Greek and Iberian characters in an undeciphered language. Some of these figures carry in their hands cups with fire, or signs which appear to refer to a solar deity. The student may look at a remarkable sun-dial with Greek inscriptions.* 1th Boom. — Roman terra - cottas. Here the visitor may go upstairs to see the Coins and Medals. They are admirably arranged in historic series. Notice the early Iberian coins. The Greek coins are very fine, and the series of medals of Spanish, French, and Italian kings, and distinguished persons, is of the highest interest. From here the visitor may go through the garden to a small building where the Pre-historic Collections are kept; chiefly remarkable for the quantity of stone-implements found in Spain, and end by going to the Salon Ethno- grafico, formerly the greenhouse be- longing to this small palace. The objects it contains which are most worthy of attention are : — a Mexican papyrus, anterior to the Conquest ; * For farther information on this subject the voluminous work, ‘ Museo Espanolde Antigue- dades,' in course of publication, may be con- sulted. Tlie Castiles. 53 'Route 2 . — Royal Picture Gallery . some helmets made of feathers brought from the Sandwich Islands, most remarkable for their Grecian form ; 156 statuettes of Mexican figures, re- presenting national costumes of the 18th centy. ; 24 lacquer-pictures, re- presenting the Conquest of Mexico ; Chinese musical instruments, arms, porcelain, and costumes ; a very re- markable textile fabric found in the tomb of an Inca, and the unique col- lection of Peruvian pottery already mentioned. Private Armouries. — Those belong- ing to the Duke of Medinaceli and the Duke de Osuna deserve a visit. The view of the Guadarrama from the Yistillas near the Duke’s palace ought to be seen. The Artillery Museum is on the Plaza del Buen Retiro, close to the entrance into the Retiro Gardens (travellers with passports admitted every day). This Museum is chiefly interesting to military men ; but the ordinary tra- veller will be interested in the fine embroidered tent which belonged to Charles Y. It is of Oriental work, and was probably taken in the African war. (It was certainly not made by the ladies of Granada, as the custodian would have one believe.) Obs. an interesting model of the town of Madrid in 1830; also a gilt-brass model made for Charles IY. : the chairs and table used by Maroto and Espartero to sign the peace of Yer- gara. The Naval Museum, in the Plazuela de los Ministerios, is open to the public (with esquela ) on Tuesdays and Fridays from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., except when it rains. Obs. the ship- building models of the day when Spain was a first-class naval power ; and also the chart of America made by the pilot Juan de la Cosa for the use of Columbus in his second voyage of discovery in 1493. Museum of Natural History in the Academy of San Fernando, No.19, Calle de Alcala, daily — except on holidays — from 10 to 3. Themineralogical depart- ment is remarkably rich in specimens of Spanish and South American mine- rals, marbles, &c. Obs. a loadstone (piedra iman) weighing 6 lbs. and supporting 60 lbs. of metal. The zoological collection contains many rare animals and fossil remains. Obs. a gigantic specimen of the * Megatherium Amerieanum , found in the year 1789 near the river Lujan, about 40 m. from Buenos Ayres in the river Plate ; near it is a smaller specimen of the same extinct animal, which was found near Madrid, 20 ft. below the earth. Obs, also 2 stuffed bulls, called Sehorito and Caramelo , and the skeleton of a French soldier. § 13. Royal Picture Gallery. The Museo, or Royal Picture Gal- lery, may be justly considered one of the richest galleries in the world, al- though containing many splendid gems, rather than a series of pictures illustrative of the history and schools of painting. It is open on Sundays, without charge, from 10 to 3 in winter, and 8 to 1 in summer ; on Mondays from 1 to 4, and on other days from 9 to 4. It is closed on rainy Sunday s and on holidays. A small fee of 2 reals (50 cents.) is paid on entrance, which goes to the support of the Asylum for the Poor at the Pardo. A Catalogue in two volumes (the first containing the Italian and Spanish schools), and an abridgment of it in one volume, have been published by Don Pedro Madrazo. It is a credit- able production, and contains much useful information as to the pictures and their authors. Many additions have been of late years made to the collection. Some interesting speci- mens of the early Flemish and Spanish painters have been brought from the Ministry of ‘Fomento,’ or public works. The Museum is a large edifice facing the Paseo del Prado, having in front a portico of 6 Doric columns. There are entrances at each side of the building. A fine stone staircase has been recently built by Jareno ad the Sect. I. 54 Haute 2. — Madrid : J entrance on the Prado side, and the unsightly mounds of earth have been removed from the back, thereby adding greatly to the general effect of the building. “ The Museum, if not quite successful in design, has so many good points about it as to be well worthy of study; and, with a little more taste in the arrangement of de- tails, might have been a really fine building. * It was built by Juan de Villanueva for 3iis patron Charles III., who intended it for an Academy of Natural History: left unfinished, at the death of its founder, it was slowly continued by his successor, Charles IV., until the French invasion, when it was partly destroyed. And so it remained until after the marriage of Ferdinand VII. with his second wife, La Portuguesa , ^yhen one Monte Alegre, who had been a Spanish con- sul in France, persuaded him to re- furnish the palace with French papers, chandeliers, and ormolu clocks ; where- upon the pictures were taken down and stowed away in garrets and cor- ridors exposed to wind and weather, until two noblemen of the court of Ferdinand, viz. the Duque de Gor and the Marques de Santa Cruz, the latter of whom was Mayordomo Mayor (or Lord High Steward), persuaded the queen to remove them to the then unused building on the Prado. In November, 1819, three saloons were got ready, and 311 pictures exhibited to the public ; the extraordinary qua- lity of which, especially of Velasquez, instantly attracted the admiring eye of foreigners, who appreciate the merits of the old masters of Spain much better than the natives. Fer- dinand VII., seeing that renown was to be obtained, now came forward, and the Museo was slowly advanced, one more saloon being opened in 1821 : thus cheaply did he earn the title of an Augustus ; but such things occur elsewhere. The Gallery not having been built for pictures, the lighting is bad, and they cannot be seen to ad- vantage on a dull day. No collection of pictures was ever * Fergusson’s ‘Modern Architecture,’ p. 157. loyal Picture Gallery. begun or continued under greater ad- vantages. Charles V. and Philip II., both real patrons of art, were the leading sovereigns of Europe at the bright period of the Renaissance , when fine art Vas an every-day necessity, and pervaded every relation of life. Again, Philip IV. ruled at Naples and in the Low Countries at the second restoration of art, which he truly loved for itself. These three monarchs, like Alexander the Great, took a pleasure in raising their painters to personal intimacy ; and nowhere have artists been more highly honoured than were Velasquez and Rubens in the palace of Madrid. At a later period, Philip V., grandson of Louis XIV., added many pictures by the principal French artists of their Augustan age. While the Spanish kings patronised art at home, their viceroys in Italy and the Low Countries collected and sent home the finest specimens of the great artists who flourished from Raphael down to the Carraccis and Claude: these glorious gems until the French invasion were preserved pure as when they issued from the studios of their immortal authors. The Museo is deficient in examples of the early Italian schools, and of some of the great Italian painters of the 15th and 16th centuries, but is es- pecially rich in the works of Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto, Paul Veronese, Rubens, and Vandyke. The Spanish masters, with the exception of Velas- quez, Murillo, and Ribera, are scantily represented. It contains (including some which are attributed, on in- sufficient grounds, to these painters) 46 pictures by Murillo, 62 by Ve- lasquez, 14 by Zurbaran, 55 by Luca Giordano, 58 by Ribera, 21 by Van- dyke, 10 by Raphael, 5 by Guido, 10 by Claude, 35 by the Bassanos, 54 by the Breughels, 8 by Alonso Cano, 12 by the Poussins, 33 by Tintoretto, 43 by Titian, 21 by Paul Veronese, 53 by the Teniers, 62 by Rubens, 13 by Antonio Moro, &c. &c. The Gallery possesses almost the entire work of Velasquez ; and it is only here that the masterpieces of this great painter can be really studied and understood. PLAN OF ROYAL PICTURE GALLERY, MADRID. 56 Sect. 1. Route 2. — Madrid : Royal Picture Gallery. There are two Entrances to the Gal- lery open to tlie public : one facing the obelisk of the ‘ Dos de Mayo/ the other opposite the Botanical Gardens and the Statue of Murillo. Continuing to ascend the staircase at the entrance to the Museum which is opposite the Botanical Gardens, is the new Museo Iconografico. The historical portraits, which are placed in the five rooms set apart for it, are of little interest ; most of them are copies. Continuing along the passage, which is hung with mo- dern Spanish pictures, is a room to the left, in which obs. Fortuny's sketch of tiie Battle of Tetuan ; a landscape by Urgell, and a good copy by Rosales of Saint Catherine of Siena, by Sodoma. Opposite the compartment devoted to historical portraits are five rooms which contain indifferent modern Spanish pictures : they are not worth visiting. The staircase which leads to these rooms is hung with portraits, most of them of great interest. Obs. No. 1882 a, the Daughter of Herodias, which contains a series of portraits of personages of the court of Henry IY. The King himself is in the foreground. No. 1882, portraits of French prin- cesses of the same period. No. 769, portrait of the fourth wife of Philip IX., M. of Austria. No. 927 (290), Portrait of Charles Y. This section of the Museum is in course of re-arrange- ment. The visitor had better enter by the Grand Entrance facing the Obelisk, and take the rooms according to the letters in the plan. If, however, he is pressed for time, and wishes to see the most important pictures, he may leave the Basement floor for the last, as, with the exception of the early Flemish and Spanish pictures in Room R, they do not contain much of interest. He should then begin by great central Gallery (E and F), and afterwards take the Salon de Isabel II. (G), the Dutch and Flemish collections (I and J), the Portrait-room (K), the collec- tions of original drawings (M), the contemporary Spanish School (L), and the sculpture galleries (O, P, Q). Then return to the entrance Rotunda (A), and visit Rooms B and C, Spanish and Italian schools. Then the room on the basement floor (R), containing the early Flemish and Spanish pic- tures, which is generally closed, but will be opened, on application, by one of the attendants. It should by no means be overlooked, as it contains some important works, especially one of remarkable interest attributed to J. Van Eyck. The pictures have recently been re- arranged and re-numbered. The old numbers have been retained (within brackets) in addition to the new in the following description for convenience of reference to former catalogues, &c. The remarks in inverted commas are from the first edition of the Handbook by Mr. Ford. For the convenience of visitors the pictures are described in the order in which they hang, and not according to their numbers, which are only consecutive as regards the works of each master, frequently scattered over more than one room. A sketch of the Spanish school of painting, and of the principal Spanish painters, will be found in the Preliminary Remarks to the Handbook. The entrance Rotunda (A) contains 8 “furniture” pictures, of no interest, by L. Giordano, F. Castillo, Vicente Cardueho or Carducchi, Leonardo, — by whom is The Marquis of Spinola receiving the Keys of Breda. This picture is mentioned to show the dif- ference of treatment of the same subject by two artists, one a great painter, Velasquez, the other a poor one. Room B (Spanish School) has been recently re-arranged, and divided into 5 compartments (see Plan). — Compart- ment a is chiefly occupied by pictures by Ribera , of which obs. No. 998, St. Francis ; very fine. Nos. 944, 1084 (193), Sanchez Coello ; Portraits of the two daughters of Philip II., Doha Isabel Clara Eugenia, and Doha Cata- lina Micaela. No. 994 (170), Bias del Prado: Virgin and Saints. A good example of this master. No. 980, Ribera : The Apotheosis of Mary Mag- dalen. No. 973, id. : St. Andrew. Nos. 957, 968, 961 (249, 250, 251), 57 The Castiles. Boute 2. — Boyal Bibera : Heads of tlie Apostles. Near tlie window, No. 1140 (540), Velasquez : View of the “ Calle de la Reina ” at Aranjuez. A grand landscape, in which the colour has unfortunately blackened. No. 729 (222), Gonzalez : Portrait of Margarite of Austria, wife of Philip III. Obs. the elaborate and careful painting of the ornaments in Pantoja’s portraits. Compartment b. — No. 689 (530), Car - reno : Portrait of Mariana of Austria, second wife of Philip IV., and mother of Charles II., in her widow’s dress. No. 701 (224), Coello : Virgin and Saints ; a weak imitation of the Italian manner. No. 925 (1926), Pantoja: Portrait of Isabella of Valois, third wife of Philip II., whose medal she holds in her hand. Overcleaned and badly restored. No. 924 (152), Pantoja: Portrait of Maria, sister of Philip II., and wife of the Emperor Maximilian. No. 1011 (147), Bibera : Head of a Sibyl, very tine. No. 702 (306), Coello : Virgin and Saints. No. 687 (513), Carreno : Portrait of the idiotic Charles II., the last of the Austrian line, on whose death the Bourbon dynasty was placed on the Spanish throne. Nos. 1065, 1044 (230, 231), against the light, Velasquez : Margaret of Austria, wife of Philip III., on horseback. An inferior work, the greater part not by his own hand : the portrait of the Queen probably taken from Pantoja. Id. : Philip III. on Horseback. The painter must have taken the portrait from Gonzalez or Pantoja, as he never saw the King himself : wants the vigour and force of his best pictures. Compartment c. — No. 238 (528), Greco: Male Portrait. No. 946 (100), Bibalta : Christ supported by Angels. A good example of this master. No. 2150, Claudio Coello (from Fomento): St. Dominic and Sta. Rosa. No. 700 (541), Cerezo : Marriage of St. Cathe- rine : a weak imitation, like all his j school. No. 1132 (283), Zurbaran: Sta. Casilda ; a graceful female figure ; apparently one of a series of female j saints, eight of whom are known to j Picture Gallery. be in England. No. 2124, Tristan (from Fomento) : St. Agustin. No. 759 (151), Juanes: Ecce Homo. No. 2149, Cano: Virgin and Child ; excel- lent in colour. Against light. No. 1070 (258), Velasquez: Portrait of Philip IV. in his Youth, in the pain- ter’s first manner ; injured, and badly repainted, id. Compartment d. — No. 703 (160), Carreno : Portrait of Charles II. : very good. No. 1038 (1918), Sanchez Coello : Portrait of the Infanta Doha Catalina Micaela, daughter of Philip II. No. 857, Murillo : The Apotheosis of Mary Magdalen; very fine. Nos. 863, 890 (189, 190), id.: St. James the Apostle. The painter seems here to have imitated the colour of Rubens’ St. Francis of Paula. No. 866 (202), id. : Infant Saviour and St. John, usually known as “ Los Nihos de la Concha” (the children of the shell) — one of the most favourite of this masters works; “a rich and delightful picture,” in his 44 vaporoso ” style. No. 893 (313), id. : A Gallician Gipsy Girl. No. 1012, Bibera : Head of Silen ; very fine. No. 1016, Francisco Bizzi : An “ Auto da Fe,” celebrated in the Plaza Mayor of Madrid on the 30th of June, 1680, before Charles II., Marie-Louise of Orleans, his Queen, and his mother, Mariana of Austria. A picture of great interest, in which are represented, as occurring simul- taneously, the various episodes of a truly Spanish ceremony. The poor bigot King views the scene from a bal- cony, surrounded by his wife, mother, and the lords and ladies of his Court. The Grand Inquisitor is seated on his throne. The victims are being led be- fore him to hear their sentences, whilst others are compelled to abjure their heresies before an altar. They wear sanbenitos , and images of those who have previously suffered are paraded about. A monk is preaching a sermon to those about to be burnt, and a priest ; is celebrating a mass for the good of their souls. The grandees of Spain, who gloried in being the ‘‘familiars” of j the Inquisition, the ministers, foreign I ambassadors and grandees, are witness* 58 Sect. I. Route 2. — Madrid : Royal Picture Gallery. in g tlie scene from the balconies. In the foreground are the alguacils on horseback, waiting with the asses on which those who are to be burnt are taken to the place appointed for the purpose at the Puerta de Fuencar- ral. For a full description of the details of this curious picture, in which the portraits, costumes, &c., of the different persons taking part in the ceremony are represented with great accuracy and minuteness, see Don P. Madrazo’s ‘ Catalogue/ vol. i. p. 556. No. 712, Escalante: a good e xample of this master. No. 897 (322), Murillo : Portrait of Friar Cavanilles ; very good. No. 750 (1971), Juanes : The Martyrdom of St. Stephen; one of the series in the long central gal- lery. No. 875 (64), Murillo: Cruci- fixion. No. 867 (56), id. : The An- nunciation. No. 730 (1883), Gonzalez : Portrait of the Infanta Dona Isabel Clara Eugenia, daughter of Philip II., whose miniature she holds in her 3 land. Compartment e. — No. 1094, Velas- quez : Portrait of a J ester of Philip IV., known by the name of Don Juan de Austria. An admirable unfinished picture. Nos. 828, 818 (171, 207), Menendez : two pictures by this clever painter of still-life. No. 629 (543), Antolinez : Magdalen. Compare with the same picture by Murillo in the next compartment. Nos. 882 to 885 (211, 212, 216, 217), Murillo : The Prodigal Son. Sketches for larger pic- tures belonging to Earl of Dudley. No. 789 (131), Eel Mazo : an excellent portrait of Don Tiburcio de Redin y Cruzat, Quartermaster-General of In- fantry in the armies of Philip IV., and afterwards a Capuchin monk and missionary in the Spanish colonies, where lie died in the odour of sanctity. Many portraits by Del Mazo pass in foreign collections as works of his master, Velasquez. Nos. 1081, 1082 (419, 450), Velasquez : Philip IV., and Mariana of Austria, his Queen, at Prayers ; from the Escorial : not en- tirely by the hand of the master. No. 1021 (95), Boelas: Moses striking the Rock. If this picture be by this master, which is very doubtful, it gives no idea of the rich and powerful colouring of his works at Seville, where only he can be studied. No. 1089 (209), Ve- lasquez: Portrait of an Old Woman, probably wrongly attributed to him. No. 790, Mazo: Portrait of Dona Mariana of Austria, second wife of Philip TV.; excellent. No. 1083 (109), Velasquez: Portrait of Prince Baltasar Carlos, son of Philip IV. No. 691 (126), Garreno: Portrait of a Girl celebrated for her enormous size. No. 1061 (335), Velasquez : The inlan- der as or Tapestry Weavers ; one of his most wonderful works in his third and last manner. The effects of light and shade, and aerial perspective, are truly marvellous, and produced by such simple and masterly means. Mengs said of this picture that it seemed painted rather by the mind than by the hand. No. 744 (531), Herrera ( Francisco de ) ; The Triumph of S. Hermenegildo. Painted for the high altar of the ch. of the Descalzos at Madrid. The painter imitated, with some success, the colouring of Rubens. No. 705 (108), Collantes : The Vision of Ezekiel ; “a horrible subject, fitted for a monkish cloister than this Gallery/’ but cleverly painted. Room C is chiefly occupied by pic- tures of the Bolognese and other Italian eclectic schools. It has also been lately arranged in compartments. The following pictures are most worth notice : — Compartment e. — No. 211 (890), Giordano: The Triumph of Peace. The centre figure is a portrait of Rubens; very fine in colour. No. 156 (807), Falcone : A Battle-piece : a very good example. No. 515 (618), Vac - caro : An Episode from the Life of St. Gennaro ; a fine example of this master. Compartment d. — Nos. 427, 426, 425 (760, 1126, 770), Tintoretto : The Find- ing of Moses ; Esther before Assur ; Judith and Holofernes: three fine sketches by this master. No. 369 (726), Baphael (?): The celebrated 59 The Castiles. Boute 2 . — Boyal Picture Gallery . “ Ferla,” so called from Philip 1Y. having exclaimed when he first saw it, “ This is the pearl of my pictures.” “ It belonged to our Charles I., and was sold with the other pictures by the tasteless Puritans and Reformers. Philip IY. paid for it the then enor- mous sum of 2000Z. The king bought so largely at the auction, through his ambassador, Alonso de Cardenas, that 18 mules were laden with the lots, and lie was so anxious to get them to Madrid that he made an excuse to turn out the Lords Clarendon and Cottington, then ambassadors from Charles II., being ashamed to exhibit his acquisition from what once be- longed to his old friend and visitor.” The authorship of this picture has been long in dispute amongst connoisseurs. It now seems generally admitted that whilst the design is by Raphael, the execution is by one of his pupils, per- haps Julio Romano. The shadows are dark and heavy, which may be owing to its having been over- cleaned when taken to Paris; the colouring wants the clear brilliancy of the master, and the picture has been badly restored. No. 389 (681), Andrea del Sarto: a repetition of No. 384. No. 50 (910), Yiew of Yenice — in- teresting for details of costume. Compartment c is chiefly occupied by pictures by Tiepolo. No. 62 (750), Lucia Anguisola : Portrait of Pier- maria, a celebrated surgeon of Cre- mona, painted in her youth. She was the sister of Sofonisba Anguisola. They both came to Spain and enjoyed a high reputation as painters and musicians. Compartment b. — No. 339, school of Leonardo da Vinci: Ploly Family. No. 491 (822), Titian: The Entomb- ment, painted for Philip II. Masterly in colour, although painted in his 82nd year. No. 545 (764), Verones: Female Portrait. No. 528, id. : Christ and the Centurion ; very fine in parts. Compartment a. — No. 31 (632), Bas- sano: Christ driving the Merchants out of the Temple. An admirable ex- | ample of this master. No. 548 (710), Carlo Verones : an allegory. No. 436 (662), Tintoretto: Judith and Holo- fernes. The fine Tintoretto represent- ing the Purification of the Midianite Captives, which was bought by Yelas- quez at Yenice for Philip IY., has been taken to a passage not open to the public. Vestibule (D), opening into the great centre gallery, contains modern Spanish pictures ; obs. some vigorous studies by that clever and eccentric painter Goya , for his large picture of the family of Charles IY. (in Room K) ; his portrait of Bayeu the painter (No. 2161) ; and his own portrait by Lopez (No. 772). No. 2165, Goya: The Crucifixion — a careful study. Nos. 734 and 735, id. : Two episodes in the struggle between the French troops and the population of Madrid on the 2nd of May, 1808 — the attack upon the Mamelukes in the Puerta del Sol, and the massacre of their prisoners by the French. Powerful and un- finished. On the side walls, entering the long gallery (E), No. 939 (287), Pereda or Perea: St. Jerome — repulsive, but with cleverly painted details. No. 1274, id. : Christ bound to a tree. No. 877 (219), Murillo: the Immaculate Conception; a small and very pleasing example of his best manner. No. 891 (323), id. : St. Francisco de Paula. The long centre Gallery is divided into two parts— the first (E), contain- ing the Spanish school; the second (F), the Italian schools. Observe on either side of this entrance No. 1073 (109), Velasquez: a noble, full-length portrait of the Infante Don Carlos, second son of Philip III., usually known as “ Lliomme au Gant,” from the glove which he holds in one hand — in the painter’s first manner; and No. 1078 (114), id. : full-length portrait of Mariana of Austria, second wife of Philip IY., dressed in the extravagant hoop of the time. No. 1114 (132), id. : study of ruins — black. Now follow left-hand wall of gallery. Nos. 753 (199) and 749 (336), Juan de Juanes ; 60 Sect. I. Route 2 . — Madrid : Royal Picture Gallery . Two of a series representing the Mar- tyrdom of St. Stephen, formerly in the church dedicated to the Saint in Valencia ; good examples of the some- what dry drawing and composition but brilliant colouring of this eclectic master. No. 987 (1912), Ribera ( il Spagnoletto) : St. Peter released from Prison by the Angel. Nos. 874 (79) and 848 (44), Morales , commonly called “ El Divino Ecce Homo, and “ Virgen de los Dolores,” characteristic examples of this celebrated but over- rated painter. No. 764 (150), Juanes : one of his many heads of the Saviour, compared by writers on Spanish Art with those of Raphael ! No. 755 (225), id. : Last Supper, compared, with equal absurdity, to Leonardo da Vinci’s. No. 849 (110), Morales: The Presentation in the Temple; obs. the bad draw- ing and feeble expression. No. 754 (169), Juanes: Portrait of Don Luis de Castelon, a Valencian magnate of the time of Charles V. The painter excelled in portraits, and this is a tine example. No. 879 (275), Murillo: The “Immaculate Conception,” in his best manner, — note the hands of the Virgin. Seventeen pictures by Ribera, hung together ; examples of his vigor- ous, savage, and repulsive style. Note especially No. 990 (80), the Trinity; and 989 (42), the Martyrdom of St. Bartholomew, “a favourite subject of his, but one which few ever wish to see twice.” “ Ribera was the painter of the bigot, inquisitor, and execu- tioner : a power of drawing, of expres- sing long-suffering and sufferance — a force of colour and effect. A contempt of the ideal, beautiful and tender, characterises his productions; un- popular in England, his stern, harsh character has ranked him amongst the model painters of Spain.” No. 1033 (154), Sanchez Coello : Portrait of the Infanta Dona Isabel, the favourite daughter of Philip II. ; a charming work by this excellent portrait painter. No. 931 (277), Pantoja de la Cruz : Portrait of Philip II. at the age of 60— a pale bigot, with a rosary in his hand. No. 947 (163), Francisco de Ribalta: An Angel appearing to S. Francis of Assisi ; a good example of the naturalistic manner of this master. No. 1032 (152), Sanchez Coello: Por- trait of the Infante Don Carlos, son of Philip II., whose tragic history fur- nished the subject of Schiller’s play. No. 1118 (308), attributed to Velas- quez, but either not by him, or entirely repainted : Portrait of Prince Baltasar, son of Philip IV. No. 914 (96), Orrente : The Adoration of the Shep- herds ; one of the best examples of this clever imitator of the Bassanos. Nos. 751, 752 (337, 196), Juan de Juanes: two of the series representing the Martyrdom of St. Stephen. No. 1055 (51), Velasquez : the Crucifixion. “A sublime representation of the death of the Son of Man': the treatment is grand and impressive; darkness is over the face of the earth, and the countenance of the Redeemer is par- tially concealed by his dishevelled and scattered hair.” No. 1068 (332), id. : Prince Baltasar on his pony : one of his most celebrated pic- tures; in his second manner, full of spirit. The child gallops as it were out of the frame ; the pony’s head, the drapery and details, are painted with admirable truth. No. 788 (79), Del Mazo : View of Zaragoza ; an excellent example of this able painter — the pupil, imitator, and son-in-law of Velasquez, to whom the figures in this picture are by some attributed. No. 1109 (145), id. : View of the Gar- dens of Aranjuez —excellent. No. 1074 (300), id. : Portrait of Philip IV. in shooting-dress, with a dog: a life-like portrait of the king in his youth ; in Velasquez’ second man- ner. No. 1080 (156), id. : Portrait of Philip IV. at 55, in his best man- ner. Obs. the admirable painting of the flesh. There is a replica of this fine portrait in our National Gallery. Nos. 1086, 1087, 1088 (320, 78, 71), id. : Portraits of the painter’s wife, Dona Juana Pacheco, and (7) of his two daughters, in his first manner. No. 1072(135), Velasquez: Portrait of the Infanta Doha Maria, Queen of Hungary, sister of Philip IV. “ This portrait is particularly interesting to us, as the lady was the object of our Charles’s romantic visit to Madrid, 61 The Oastiles. Route 2. — Royal Picture Gallery. Howell, who was at the Spanish Court, described her as a very comely lady, rather of a Flemish complexion than of that of a Spaniard, fair- haired, and full and big-lipped, which is held a beauty rather than a blemish in the Austrian family” — a beauty which they have curiously preserved. No. 1085 (527), id. : Portrait of the poet Gongora. Examine carefully the four wonderful portraits of Phi- lip IV.'s dwarfs, by Velasquez: No. 1095 (216), “El Primo,” seated with an open book before him; No. 1098 (281), “ El Nino de Vallecas ; ” No. 1099 (291), “ El Bobo de Coria ; ” and No. 1096 (255), Don Sebastian de Mora. These are amongst the best ex- amples of his vigorous and facile brush, and of his unrivalled power of por- traying character and expression ; com- pare the arrogant pride — truly Spanish — of the “ Primo,” the vacant idiotcy of the Nino, the spiteful cunning of the Bobo, and the stolid obstinacy of Don Sebastian ; it would be impossible to represent with more spirit and truth the peculiar characteristics of these unfortunate beings. Nos. 1106, 1107 (101, 102), Velasquez: Sketches made during his residence in Borne, in the garden of the Villa Medici. No. 1062 (155), id. : The Meninas, sometimes called “La Familia in his third manner. Velasquez has represented himself painting the royal family. In front of him are supposed to be stand- ing Philip IV. and his Queen, Dona Mariana of Austria, who are reflected in a looking-glass. In the foreground is the little Princess Margarita Maria, attended by her female dwarf, Maria Barbola. Another dwarf, named Nico- lasito Portusato, is teasing with his foot a huge mastiff lying sleepily on the floor. Behind the Princess are her two attendants, and in the background, at an open door, Don Jose Nieto, “ Aposentador ” of the Queen. Two young maids of honour, her “Meninas,” seek to amuse her. The painter stands before his easel, brush and palette in hand. On his breast is the red cross of Santiago, which, according to tradition, was painted by the King himself, “ to finish the picture,” as he declared. “ This wonderful picture (which deserves careful study) is alike a masterpiece in local colour and in aerial lineal perfection ; the accessories are only indicated, and there is a marked absence of bright colours — an olive-greenish tone pervading the background.” No. 1048(1865), Tristan: an interesting portrait by a painter whose work appears to have exercised great influence over Velasquez in his youth. No. 1103 (228), Velasquez : Por- trait, in his first manner. No. 697 (151), Caxes : The Siege of Cadiz by the English in 1625, under Lord Wimble- don. Don Fernando Giron, the Go- vernor of the City, is seated in a chair giving his orders to Diego Buiz. No. 1071 (74), Velasquez: Portrait of Phi- lip IV., young. No. 935 (131), Pareja (the mulatto slave of Velasquez, and his pupil) : The Calling of St. Matthew ; considered his best work : he imitated in it the style and colouring of the Italian and Flemish painters of his time rather than those of his master. No. 1102 (63), Velasquez : The God Mars ; an uninteresting study from a model. No. 1090 (289), id. : Portrait of Don Antonio Alonso Pimental, 9th Count of Benavente; “magnificently painted. How much effect is produced with little detail ! yet never was armour better represented.” This masterpiece was attributed, in the old royal in- ventories, to Titian ! It is in the painter’s second manner when under the influence of Tintoretto. No. 1056 (62), id. : Coronation of the Virgin; painted after his return from his second residence in Italy, when for a short time he imitated, but not very suc- cessfully, the colouring of the Italian masters. “ In this purely ideal compo- sition the shortcomings of Velasquez are apparent. His Virgin lacks the womanly tenderness of Murillo, the unspotted loveliness of Baphael, the serenity— unruffled by human passions — of the antique; she is, in fact, an uninteresting female ; whilst the Deity is degraded into a toothless, unshaven monk.” No. 1067 (305), id.: Por- trait of Doha Isabel de Borbon, the first wife of Philip IV., on an ambling palfrey. The greater part of the de= 62 Boute 2. — Madrid: Boy at Picture Gallery. Sect. tails, and even of the horse, except perhaps the head, are probably by one of the painter’s pupils. Now cross over to the opposite side of the gallery and finish the Spanish school. No. 1066 (299), Velasquez : Philip IV. on horseback on his trium- phal entry into Lerida, in the painter’s second manner. Obs. the painting of the head, of the armour, and of the horse. Sterling pronounces this pic- ture the finest equestrian portrait in the world ; it is perhaps the finest Ve- lasquez ever painted. No. 1069 (177), id. : The Conde-Duque de Olivares, the celebrated minister of Philip IV., on a rearing war-horse, and command- ing in an imaginary battle: in the painter’s second manner : excellent, except that the rider seems to be seated too far forward on the neck of his charger. No. 1076 (270), Velas- quez: Portrait of Prince Baltasar, 6 years old, in his hunting-dress, with dogs and gun. No. 861 (54), Murillo : Altar-piece known as “La Porciun- cula,” from a small piece of ground near Assisi on which was a ch. where Christ in a supernatural revelation accorded to St. Francis the famous jubilee of that name. In the painter’s “ calido ” or warm manner ; weak and mannered in parts and overcleaned. No. 1097 (279), Velasquez: A dwarf, called D. Antonio el Ingles (the Eng- lishman). An admirable example of the skill of the painter in producing effect by small means. Obs. the hat and feathers and details of the cos- tume. No. 1100 (254), id.: iEsop, companion picture to the Menippus, and as excellent. Obs. the truth of expression and the admirable model- ling of the head; although “looking more like a shirtless cobbler than a philosopher,” the sagacious, thoughtful countenance, rich in its ugliness, may not be unworthy of one. No. 1060 (319), id. : The Surrender of Breda ; perhaps the noblest of the works of Velasquez, and one of the finest his- torical pictures in the world. “ Never were, knights, soldiers, or national character better painted, or the heavy Fleming, the intellectual Italian, and the proud Spaniard more nicely marked even to their boots and breeches. Obs. the genial countenance of Spinola, who (the model of a high-bred, generous warrior) is consoling a gallant but vanquished enemy (Justin of Nassau). Spinola took Breda June 2nd, 1626, and died five years afterwards, broken- hearted at Philip IV. ’s treatment, ex- claiming, ‘Me han quitado la honraV (They have robbed me of my honour !) Velasquez lias introduced his own noble head into this wonderful com- position (?); it is placed to the ex- treme rt. of the picture, with a plumed hat shading his finely-chiselled brow. This is indeed a male subject, and treated with a mascidine mind and hand.” This picture is usually known in Spain as “Las Lanzas,” from the upright lances which cut the sky. It is in the painter’s second manner, and was painted in 1647. No. 1101 (245), id. : An admirable study of a cunning Castilian beggar whom the painter has called “Menippus.” No. 870 (423), Murillo : TheVirgin of the Rosary; heads of Virgin and child fine. No. 869 (326), id. : St. Ildefonso receiving the Casulla from the Virgin, who appeared to him seated in the episcopal chair in the Cathedral of Toledo, when the Saint was praying at an altar. “ The angels are nothing but pretty milliners ; the saint is but a monkish tailor.” No. 668 (148), Alonso Cano : S. Benedict. Nq. 872 (310), Murillo: S. Anne teach- ing the Virgin to read. Lacks dig- nity ; the drawing and colour feeble ; painted shortly before his death. No. 865 (50), id. : St. John the Baptist ; not a pleasing but a popular picture. No. 864 (46), id. : The Infant Saviour ; the head somewhat vulgar. No. 1119 (61), Villavicencio : Boys playing at dice. Many of the beggar boys that figure in European galleries as Murillos are by this painter, his pupil. No. 854 (43), Murillo : Holy Family called 4 del Pajarito,’ from the bird held by the Infant Saviour. The influence of Ribera upon the painter in his early works is seen in this very pleasing picture. No. 880 (65), id. : The Conception. This and the adjoining Boute 2 . — Boyal Picture Gallery. 63 The Castiles. picture of the same subject, No. 878 (229), are considered the finest by the master in the gallery, and are the most frequently copied. They are both of exquisite beauty, and it is difficult to say which is to be preferred. This must be [left to the taste of the visi- tor. No. 868 (315), id. : Vision of St. Bernard. A good example of the painter’s powerful chiaroscuro. 44 The head of the saint is fine, and the senti- ments of gratitude and veneration are admirably expressed. The concealing of the feet of the Virgin gives her figure too much height. St. Bernard was a champion of the Virgin, second only to St. Buonaventura, the Seraphic Doctor.’’ No. 886 (179), id. : Infant Christ sleeping on the Cross; in his calido or warm manner. No. 881 (182), id. : Martyrdom of St. Andrew, 44 in his vaporoso style ; a glorious picture, but disharmonised by the white re- painting of the horse.” No. 867 (56), id. : Annunciation. No. 692 (267), Garreno : Francisco Bazan, a buffoon of the Court of Charles II., presenting a petition. No. 1133 (317), Zurbaran : Infant Christ sleeping on the Cross. No. 855 (208), Murillo : Kebecca at the Well ; a charming picture. No. 874 (64), id. : the Conversion of St. Paul. Be turn to centre of gallery occupied by the Italian masters. No. 82 (734) (?), Alessandro Allori : Portrait. No. 385 (772), Andrea del Sarto: Holy Family, from the collection of our Charles I. ; the picture has been attributed to one of his scholars. No. 387 (837), id. : The Sacrifice of Abraham ; has also been attributed to a pupil. No. 389 (911), attributed to Andrea del Sarto: Holy Family. No. 69 (721), assigned, but wrongly, to Michael Angelo: The Flagellation. No. 290 (778), attributed to Luini, but ? a copy : Holy Family. On the opposite side; No. 372 (901), copy from Raphael : Portrait of Andrea Nava- giero, ambassador to Charles V. and author of 4 II Viaggio di Spagna.’ No. 366 (784), Raphael: Christ bear- ing the Cross, called El Pasmo de Sicilia , having been painted for a church in Sicily called La Madonna del Spasimo. Originally on wood, but transferred to canvas when taken to Paris, by which process and by repairs and overcleaning it has lost much of its original transparency and harmony of colour. Its general tone is now too 44 hot and bricky but the beauty and grandeur of the composition and the fine and varied expressions of the figures remain. The drawing and anatomy have, however, been criticised in parts. The vessel taking this pic- ture to Palermo was wrecked and the picture floated to Genoa, from whence the Sicilians had great difficulty in re- covering it. No. 368 (834), Raphael: The Salutation, also transferred from panel to canvas at Paris, and much in j ured by restorations : in his second manner. Bought by Philip IV. ; in- scribed in gold letters, 44 Baphael Urbinas: Marinus Branconius — fieri fecit.” No. 2125, copy of Kaphael’s 44 Transfiguration,” by his pupil Penni, 44 El Fattore.” No. 373 (901), a copy from Raphael , probably by the same hand as No. 372 : Portrait of Agostino Beazzano. Obs. in the centre of the long gallery 2 cases containing objects of art, cups, tazzas, &c., in the precious metals and rare marbles, in enamel and rock crystal ; some of great beauty and value. They formed part of the collection belonging to the house of Bourbon, and were brought to Spain by Philip V. Having been concealed at the time of the French occupation, they were rescued from the cellars of the Boyal Palace and finally deposited in the Museum. One or two are attributed to Benvenuto Cellini. Obs. also in the centre the fine majolica bowl, which was formerly at the Escorial. Continue along left of division F of long gallery. No. 470 (854), Titian : Philip II. offering his infant son Fernando to Victory after the battle of Lepanto. Painted in his 91st year, and showing evidence of the feeble- ness of age. No. 471 (821), id. : The Marquis del Vasto, the illustrious D’Avalos, addressing his troops. This picture wa3 injured by fire and has been badly restored, and in great 64 Sect. I. Route 2. — Madrid : Royal Picture Gallery . part repainted. No. 458, id. : Danae, painted for Philip II. ; in parts over- cleaned, but still a grand example of his colouring. Obs. the head of Danae, which is exceedingly fine. No. 463 (740), Titian : Portrait of a Knight of Malta; much injured and restored. No. 485, id. : Portrait of Isabel of Portugal, the wife of the Emperor Charles Y. No. 465 (750): copy by Sanchez Coello of a picture by Ti- tian ; Sisyphus painted, not for Queen Mary of England, but for Mary, wife of Ferdinand, King of the Romans. No. 466 (787): Prometheus Bound; copy from Titian by Sanchez Coello. No. 475 (465), Titian : The Virgin. No. 314 (768), Morons : Portrait, awk- ward and not a good specimen of this great portrait painter. No. 480 (915), Titian : A fine male portrait. Nos. 467, 468 (914, 922), id. : Ecce Homo, and the Virgin, painted for Charles V. No. 456 (812), id. : Adam and Eve ; a copy of this picture by Rubens, who much admired its rich and beautiful colouring, especially in the painting of the human flesh, will be found in Room J, No. 1613. No. 476 (805), id. : An allegory, Christianity suc- coured by Spain. A splendid piece of colouring. Obs. especially the de- tails of armour, &c., and the grand female figure bearing a banner repre- senting Spain. No. 452 (926), id. : Alfonso I. Duke of Ferrara; a fine but much damaged portrait. No. 469 (851), id. : S. Margaret, from the col- lection of our Charles I. No. 489 (462), id. : Christ ; a fragment from a large picture. No. 461 (776), id. : Salome with the head of John the Baptist; said to be a portrait of his daughter Lavinia. There are several replicas of this picture in various collections. No. 488 (1998), supposed to be a joint work of Giov. Bellini and Titian from a forged inscription upon the picture : Christ bearing the Cross. No. 79 (106j, Carducci i or Car ducho, an Italian painter of no great merit, who settled in Spain, and who had considerable influence on the Spanish school : The Descent from the Cross; a picture of some interest, as showing this influence. No. 484 (882), attributed to Titian, but probably by Polidoro Veneziano or some other painter of the school : The Adoration of the Magi. No. 462 (752), Titian: The Apotheosis of Charles V. ; to the rt., in their grave-clothes, are the Emperor, his wife (Isabella of Portu- gal), Philip II. and Mary of Hungary. Below this group Titian has introduced his own portrait. This celebrated pic- ture, known as “de la Gloria,” was painted for Charles V.j “ who directed by his will that it should always be hung up where his body was buried ; it accordingly remained at Yuste until Philip IT. removed his father’s remains to the Escorial.” It has been a good deal injured by repainting. The com- position is not pleasing, and the violent action of the figures is scarcely in harmony with the subject. Obs. the landscape so characteristic of Titian’s country. No. 460, id. : a subject similar to that of No. 459 ; a copy by a scholar. No. 481 (682) (?), id. : A portrait. No. 459, id.: a nude fe- male figure, finely painted, with a youth playing on an organ near her ; one of several similar subjects painted by Titian, and probably portraits ; from the collection of Charles I. No. 472 (868) (?), id. : The Repose in Egypt, “ a superb landscape.” No. 477 (695), id. : His own portrait in his old age ; a grand sketch. No. 530 (897), Paul Veronese : The martyrdom of S. Gines ; not a good example if by him. No. 538 (876), id. : Allegory of Youth between Virtue and Vice; inferior as a composition. No. 532 (732), id.: The Magdalen; fine. No. 534 (453), id. : The Marriage of Cana. This picture, which was much praised by Velasquez, came from the collection of Charles I. No. 540 (896), id. : Cain and his wife ; a splendid example of his colouring, equal to Titian; un- fortunately parts of the picture have suffered, especially Cain and the sky and landscape, but obs. the exquisite beauty of the female figure with her child. No. 434 (1928), Tintoretto: A fine male portrait. No. 539 (881), id. : The Sacrifice of Abraham. No. 529 (898), id. : Susanna and the Elders. No. 6 (633), C. Allori Portrait of The Castiles. 65 Boute 2 . — Boyal Picture Gallery. Christina of Lorraine, Grand Duchess of Tuscany. No. 5 (1268), A. Allori (?) : Portrait of a son of Cosimo I., Grand Duke of Tuscany. Now follow opposite wall of Gallery. No. 261 (836), Guido : St. James the Apostle. No. 148 (706), Domenichino : The Sacrifice of Abraham; extrava- gant in action. No. 260 (634), Guido : St. Sebastian. No. 322 (786), attri- buted to Pcdma , but ? by Bonifazio Veronese : The Adoration of the Shep- herds ; rich Venetian colouring. No. 136 (809), Correggio: ‘Noli me tan- gere ; ’ a genuine picture, but over- cleaned — in parts fine. No. 292 (679), Malombra : An interesting picture re- presenting the reception by a Doge of a foreign ambassador. Nos. 482 and 483 (728 and 729), copies from Titian, attributed to Del Mazo : Diana and Acteon, and Diana and Calisto. No. 419 (767), Tintoretto : A fine male portrait. No. 428 (704), id. : The Last Judg- ment, believed to be the sketch for the great picture in the Hall of the Grand Council in the Ducal Palace at Venice ; purchased there by Velasquez for Philip IV. No. 410 (774), id. : A Battle at Sea, or Turkish Pirates at- tacking Christian vessels ; a grand ex- ample of the master’s powerful colour- ing, especially worthy of study. Obs. the female figure in the foreground. No. 413 (808), id. : John the Baptist baptizing Christ ; fine. No. 422 (1839), id. : Joseph and Potiphar’s wife; one of a series of panels for a ceiling ; re- markable for the painting of the flesh, which has a brilliancy and trans- parency not surpassed even by Titian. No. 48 (435), Titian: Christ presented to the people by Pilate. Velasquez, in his catalogue of the pictures in the Escorial, ascribes this picture to Titian, and observes that although much re- stored it is “muy bueno.” No.342 (693), attributed to Pordenone , but by his re- lation, Bernardino Licinio : A female portrait. No. 478 (437), Titian: St. Jerome; rich and solemn effect of colour. This picture is attributed by some to Lorenzo Lotto , who frequently imitated Titian very closely. No. 49 (877), L. Bassano :|a variety of sacred [Spain, 1882.] subjects ; rich in colour. No. 457 (685), Titian : Charles V. on horse- back ; perhaps the finest equestrian portrait in the world. The lower part of the picture was much injured by fire, and has been badly restored, or rather repainted; all the upper and principal part is well preserved. The Emperor is represented at the battle of Muhlberg, when he was so weakened by illness that he had to be lifted on his horse. The expression of his counte- nance shows suffering combined with a determined spirit, which such a hand as Titian’s alone could portray. The armour, which is still preserved in the royal armoury of Madrid, and the other details, are magnificently painted. The general treatment is poetical in the highest degree. This picture is in every respect worthy of the great emperor, and of his favourite painter ; it will well reward the most careful study, and should be compared with the equestrian portraits of Philip IV. and the Count -Duke Olivares (by Velasquez) which hang near it, to con- trast the work of a great imagina- tive with that of a great naturalistic painter. Now enter the Salon de Isabel II., G on plan. It contains few pictures that are not of a very high order. The light in this hall is bad. No. 1565 (1442), Rubens : St. George and the Dragon ; vigorous heroic com- position, rich in colour. No. 245 (1153), El Greco : A portrait. No. 756 (73), Juan de Juanes : The Visitation ; a good specimen of his brilliant colour- ing and careful execution when imi- tating the Florentine masters. No. 1442 (427), Quentin Matsys (?), also attributed to Van Orley: Christ, the Virgin, and St. John. No. 950 (331), Ribalta: The Evangelists St. John and St. Matthew ; an inferior example of the master. No. 1424 (1945), attri- buted to Mending : Adoration of the Magi ; a replica or copy, on a larger scale, and with variations, of the cele- brated triptych in the Hospital of St. John, Bruges. No. 1291 (454), Chris- tophsen (?) : The Annunciation, Visita- F 66 Sect. I. Boute 2. — Madrid : Boyal Picture Gallery . tion, Birth of Christ, and the Adoration of the Magi ; an interesting example of the early Flemish school. No. 1398 (1018), Portrait, attributed to Holbein , but probably by a later German painter. No. 1989 (975), Claude. No. 1330 (1407), Vandyke : Portraits of the Earl of Bristol, English Ambassador of Charles I. to Philip IV., and the Painter ; an interesting picture, in a clear, silvery tone. No. 411 (919), Tintoretto: A fine portrait of the Ve- netian general, Sebastian Vinier. It is interesting to compare the portraits by the great Venetian painter with those by Velasquez, who studied them carefully, and formed his second manner upon them. No. 2051 (1050), N. Pous- sin: Meleager’s Hunt. No. 1322(1245), Vandyke : A fine portrait of the Coun- tess of Oxford. No. 1484 (1446), An- tonio Moro : “ A superb portrait of our bloody Queen Mary.’* The painter was sent to England expressly to paint this picture by Charles V., previous to Mary’s marriage with Philip II. ; of the highest interest, historically and artistically. No. 1091 (81), Velasquez : a masterly unfinished portrait of a sculptor, but not of Alonso Cano. No. 1084 (198), Velasquez : Portrait of the Infanta Dona Maria Theresa of Austria , daughter of Philip IV., and wife of Louis XIV., in the Court-dress and hoop called “ guardainfante.” Obs. the masterly painting of the drapery, and the power of Velasquez in producing the desired effects by broad and sim- ple treatment. No. 982 (116), Ribera ; : Jacob’s Dream ; a more pleasing sub- ject than usual with him ; in his early style, before he took to his coarse and savage manner. No. 1058 (138), Velas- quez: The celebrated picture known as the “ Borrachos ” (the topers), in his first style, when under the influence of Ilibera. li The actors may, indeed, be low in intellectual character, but they are not vulgar, being true to the life ; and if deficient in elevated sentiment, are rich in meaning, and transcripts of real men.” Unfortunately, as in many of Velasquez’s pictures, the greens and some other colours have become black. No. 1092 (107), id. : Por- trait of Philip IV.’s jester, Pablillos de Valladolid; admirable. No. 1327 (1392), Vandyke: Portrait of Henry, Count de Berg; equal in power to that of Byckaert. No. 1331 (1447), id. : An excellent portrait of Liberti, an organist of Antwerp. Both these pictures deserve study, as they differ so much in colour and manner from Vandyke’s portraits painted in Eng- land. Obs. especially the hands. No. 690 (517), Carreno : Portrait of Potem- kin, Ambassador of the Czar of Bussia to Spain. No. 60 (665), attributed to Gian Bellini , but by an imitator. No. 1584 (1654), Rubens: Perseus and An- dromeda; a fine example of the painter’s splendid colouring. No. 288 (797), Lorenzo Lotto : The Betroth- ment; a charming specimen of this excellent painter. No. 291 (799), at- tributed to Luini : Herodias with the head of John the Baptist ; probably a copy by a scholar of a well-known picture by the master. No. 333 (929), Parmigiano : Portrait of a lady (? Biccarda Malespina) and her three children. No. 454 (769), Titian : Philip II. in his youth; one of the finest examples of the delicacy, refine- ment, and truth of expression in the portraits of this prince of portrait painters. Obs. the painting of the armour, still preserved in the “ Ar- rneria ” (No. 2388). No. 450 (864), id. : A Bacchanal, or Ariadne in the Isle of Naxos abandoned by Theseus ; one of a series of four pictures commenced by G. Bellini and finished by Titian for Duke Alfonso of Ferrara; two of which are in this collection, one in our National Gallery, and the fourth , partly painted by Bellini, in the possession of the Duke of Northumberland: a picture of the most exquisite poetical beauty ; “joyous mirth and a dance of light were never so gloriously coloured.” No. 1407 (1680), Jordaens : Atalanta and Meleager. No. 533 (691), attri- buted to Paul Veronese , but more pro- bably by his son Carlo : The Finding of Moses ; a richly coloured cabinet picture. No. 526 (843), Paid Veronese : Venus and Adonis ; a very fine ex- ample of the painter, bought by Velasquez at Venice for Philip IV. ; the flesh and cool transparent shadows The Casfciles. 67 Route 2 . — Royal Picture Gallery. admirably painted. No. 395 (779), attri- buted to S. del Piombo , but ? a copy by El Mudo. No. 1386 (429), attributed to Gossaert (Mabuse): Virgin and Child. No. 367 (905), Raphael: A Cardinal ; conjectured to be G-iulio de Medici, afterwards Clement VII., but more probably Bernardo da Bibiena : one of the painter’s finest portraits. “ A truly Italian head; how full of mental power ! Obs. the decision in the fine compressed lips and the keen intellect of the pursuing eyes.” No. 1063 (295), Velasquez : Mercury and Argus. No. 365 (741), Raphael: Virgin with Tobit, known as La Virgen del Pez (of the fish), transferred to canvas at Paris; a grand symmetrical composi- tion, somewhat too ruddy in tone, per- haps from overcleaning, but placed by Passavant among Kapha el’s finest works. No. 133 (831), attributed to Correggio : Holy Family. No. 383 (No. 664), Andrea del Sarto: Por- trait of his Wife. “ This once ex- quisite picture was cruelly restored in 1833.” No. 1410 (1571), Jordaens: A Family Group. No. 371 (723), Ra- phael : Holy Family ; known as the Madonna of the Lizard. This is one of the many pictures of which the design is by Raphael, but the execu- tion in great part, if not entirely, by one of his pupils, perhaps Giulio Ro- mano or Francesco Penni. No. 370 (794), id. : The Virgin of the Rose ; a charming composition, but its ori- ginality is questioned. The lower part of the picture is a modern addi- tion. No. 850 (157), Morales: Virgin and Child. No. 295 (887), attri- buted to Mantegna , but by one of his scholars : Assumption of the Virgin. No. 1120 (190), Zurbaran: The Vision of St. Peter Nolasco ; a characteristic example. No. 451 (852), Titian : “ La Fecundidad,” or “ Offering to the God- dess of Fecundity.” From the same series as No. 450; one of his most admirable works, glowing with colour, and with a charming and infinite variety in the action and expression of the children. “ This was the picture which, when at Rome in the Ludovisi Palace, was the study and the making of Nicolas Poussin.” No. 332 (867), Parmigiano: Portrait; conjectured to be that of Lorenzo Cibo, cousin of Cle- ment VII., and captain of his guard ; “a superb portrait.” No. 453 (765), Titian : Charles V. with his favourite Irish Hog ; a magnificent portrait, once belonging to our Charles I. “ Here is the Emperor in his privacy, with his look of care, gout, and dyspepsia.” No. 1435 (1057), Mengs : Adoration of the Shepherds : “ an academical, eclec- tic, and feeble veneering, of other men’s ideas, especially those of Cor- reggio.” No. 236 (792), Titian : Holy Family and Saints ; attributed in the Catalogue to Giorgione , but un- doubtedly an early work by Titian , of great beauty and richness of colour- ing. No. 341 (418), Giorgione : Virgin and Child and two Saints : a most precious work of this rare and great master, deserving careful study : in- correctly attributed to Pordenone. No. 1057 (89), Velasquez: The Hermits St. Anthony and St. Paul in the De- sert. “ In breadth,” says Wilkie, “ and richness unexampled! the beau-ideal of landscape, with not much detail or imitation, but the very same sun we see, and the air we breathe, the very soul and spirit of nature.” One of the painter’s last works. No. 1317 (992), ? A. Purer : but a fine portrait. No. 1385, Gossaert (Mabuse) : Virgin and Child ; presented by the city of Louvain to Philip II. in 1588, as re- corded by an inscription on the back. No. 364 (798), Raphael : Holy Family ; a charming cabinet-picture, signed and dated mdvii. Passavant attributes it to Penni, from a design by the master ; from the Royal Closet in "the Escorial : several replicas, or rather copies, exist in various public and private collec- tions. No. 1316 (972), Albert Purer : His portrait ; conjectured, notwith- standing the signature, to be a co- temporary copy of the one in the Uffizi at Florence. No. 1483 (651), Antonio Moro : Portrait of Pejeron, a jester of the Count of Benavente; an admirable portrait, painted with so much breadth that it was once attributed to a Vene- tian master. No. 983 (485), Ribera : Isaac blessing J acob. No. 1059 (195), Velasquez: The Forge of Vulcan; in F 2 68 Sect. I. Route 2 . — Madrid : Royal Picture Gallery. liis second manner ; the result of his studies from the nude at Koine, 'where it was painted. Although there is much in this picture not unworthy of the master, it shows his want of the highest imaginative faculties : Apollo has none of the attributes of the deity, and Vulcan and his com- panions are mere boorish blacksmiths listening to a tale of scandal. No. 862 (271), Murillo : Virgin and Child. No. 1075 (278), Velasquez : Portrait of the Infante Don Fernando de Austria, brother of Philip IV., in his shooting- dress, with dog and gun ; excellent in all respects. No. 1544 (1330), Rem- brandt (?) : Artemisia about to swallow the ashes of her husband. No. 859 (181), Murillo : Adoration of the Shep- herds ; a fine example of his natural- istic manner, in which the influence of Eibera and Velasquez is evident. No. 455 (801), Titian: Venus and Adonis, painted for Philip II. : several replicas are known ; this is believed to be the original. No. 1320 (1233), Vandyke: Superb portrait of David Kyckaert, the painter ; in his richest and most powerful colouring. No. 1606 (1345), Rubens : Portrait of Mary of Medicis ; unfinished, but very fine. No. 1992 (1049), Claude : Landscape, Morning, painted for Philip IV. ; dirty and dark. Nos. 1352 and 1353 (1401 and 1403), attributed to Van Eyck, but by one of his good imitators. No. 108 (414), by a Venetian painter, perhaps Rocco Marconi: Christ giving the keys to St. Peter. No. 14, Fra Angelico : The Annunciation (a replica of his well-known fresco in the convent of St. Mark at Florence) and a pre- della with five subjects from the life of the Virgin ; a beautiful and uninjured altar-piece, from the convent of the Descalzas Reales in Madrid. No. 1104 (139), Velasquez : A portrait. No. 17 (637), Baroccio : Birth of Christ. No. 1818 (No. 1046), Roger Vander Weyden (the elder) : Descent from the Cross. Brought by Queen Maria of Huugary, Governess of the Netherlands, from the church of St. Peter at Louvain. There are several replicas of this picture ; one in Room G, another at the Escorial. No. 1335 (1607), Vandyke : The Treachery of J udas ; one of his rare altar-pieces. Return by long gallery F to octagon H, which contains the French school, and few pictures of importance. The principal are — Nos. 1985 and 1986 (942 and 947), Claude: two fine land- scapes painted for Philip IV.; the figures by Filippo Lauri. No. 2041 (982), N. Poussin : David crowned by Victory. No. 1979, Courtois : A Ca- valry Skirmish. No. 2008, Portrait of Clementina Sobiesky, wife of the Pre- tender. No. 2083 (971), Watteau : A Wedding Feast. No. 1991 (1033), Claude : Landscape with figures repre- senting the temptation of St. Anthony ; very dark. No. 2043 (989), Poussin : Mount Parnassus. No. 2040 (976), ? id. : Landscape. No. 2042 (983), id. : A Bacchanal. No. 2049 (1030), id. : Nymph and Satyr. There are several other pictures in this room attributed to Poussin , but of inferior quality. No. 2080 (1055), C. J. Vernet: A marine piece. No. 2086, A Bacchanal, author unknown. No. 2084 (991), Watteau : A pretty scene in the gardens of St. Cloud. No/l987 (1081), Claude : A fine sunrise, with sea and archi- tecture ; the groups embarking are by Courtois. No. 51, in the Liber Veritatis No. 1988 (1080), id. : “ A glorious Italian sunset, with beautiful water ;” the figures of Tobit and the angel by Courtois. No. 32, in the Lib. Ver. No. 1993 (1082), id.: Morning scene ; rather dark, a defect of many of Claude’s pictures in this collection. No. 1994 (1086), id. : Landscape, with a ford. The corridors and staircase leading from Room H are hung with inferior Dutch and Flemish pictures. Obs. among them pictures by Snayers, re- presenting Spanish victories and sieges in the Low Countries; a series of sketches for the decoration of a hall, attributed to Rubens ; Sanchez Coello, a portrait of a Princess of the House of Austria ; some landscapes by Both, dark and dirty ; a good female portrait of the school of Moro. The Flemish and Dutch collections 69 The Castiles. Route 2 .—Royal Picture Gallery . are contained in Rooms I, J, and L. They are rich in fine works by Ru- bens and by a few masters of eminence who painted for the Spanish Court and for the Governors of the Netherlands — A, Moro, Vandyke, the Teniers, J. Breughel, and Wouvermans. The Breughels are excellent examples of his wonderful power of rendering the mi- nutest details. As they are all of nearly the same character, we only note the most interesting, but they all deserve notice. Of the numerous Teniers it is difficult to determine in many in- stances which are by the father and which by the son. The greater part, however, are by the latter, and some by his brother Abraham. Room I., divided into 5 compart- ments. — Compartment a. No. 1401 (1372), Honthorst : the Incredulity of St. Thomas. No. 1547, Bombouts : The Dentist. No. 1835 (1601), Wouvermans : Halt of a Hunting Party at an Inn ; a bright and charming picture. No. 1326 (1314), Vandyke: a fine female portrait, but injured, like many other pictures in the collection, in the fire which de- stroyed the ancient Alcazar, or Royal Palace. No. 1333 (1546), id. : A Pieta ; also injured by fire and badly restored in parts, but fine. The Antwerp Gallery contains a repetition of this picture. No. 1598 (1507), Bubens : Mercury. No. 1319 (496), Vandyke : Christ crowned with Thorns ; the painter has imitated the colouring of Rubens. No. 1602 (1465), Bubens : Democritus laughing. No. 1786 (1473), Valken- burg : Landscape with Figures ; a good specimen of the master. No. 1325 (1282), Vandyke (?) : a small picture of Charles I. in armour on horseback. No. 1321 (1242), id. : Portrait of the Infante Cardinal Don Fernando of Austria, in the costume in which he entered Brussels in 1634 ; fine. No. 1323 (1272), id. : Portrait of Henry of Nassau, Prince of Orange ; the armour well painted, but the head injured by repainting. No. 1830 (1383), Wouver- mans: A Hunting Party crossing a Stream; a gem. No. 1258 (1483), J. Breughel : Flowers in a Porcelain Vase ; excellent of its kind. No. 1716 (1238), A. Teniers : Armour and Arms ; weak, when compared with the works of his brother, the younger David Teniers. No. 1336 (1685), Vandyke : Diana and Endymion; injured. No. 1586 (1681), Bubens : Diana and her Nymphs sur- prised by Satyrs ; a spirited composi- tion, and superb in colouring. No. 1324 (1273), Vandyke: Portrait of Amalia de Solms, Princess of Orange. No. 1831 (1377), Wouvermans: an exquisite hunting scene, with ladies and gentle- men on horseback. Nos. 1738 to 1743, Teniers: clever Monkey pieces. No. 1328 (1393), Vandijke: Portrait of a Musician ; fine, but somewhat injured. No. 1337 (1721), id. : St. Francis of Assisi ; fine. No. 1328 (1394), id. : A Cavalier, in Black Satin ; fine. No. 1788 (1603), Valkenburg : View of the Palace of the Governors of the Nether- lands. No. 1563 (439), Bubens : Dead Christ. Compartment 6 .— No. 1655 (1441), Buysdael : A small Landscape ; fine. No. 1754 (1296), D. Teniers , the younger : one of his many Temptations of St. Anthony ; clear and silvery in tone. No. 1721 (1448) (?), D. Teniers , the elder : A Village Feast. No. 1656 (1440), Buysdael: A Wood; com- panion to No. 1655. No. 1733 (1294), D. Teniers , the younger : La Graciosa Fregatriz (scullery-maid) ; one of his best pictures of this class. No. 1755 (1451), id. : another Temptation of St. Anthony; fine. No. 1729 (1569), id.: The Smokers. No. 1745 (I960), id. : Trophies of War and a dog ; a large picture for this master, and fine. No. 1219 (1420), Brauwer : A Scene of Low Life by this clever painter, the master of D. Teniers, the younger. No. 1727 (1505), D. Teniers , the younger : Boors Drinking. No. 1834 (1573), Wouvermans: A Departure from an Inn; “most beautiful.” No. 1731 (1502), D. Teniers , the younger : A Kit- chen Scene. No. 1218 (1417), Brauwer : Music in the Kitchen. No. 1719 (1270), D. Teniers , the younger : A Rural Feast, presided over by the Archduke Leopold and various persons of his court. No. 1735 (1567), ? old Teniers : A Surgical Operation. (No. 1500), P, 70 Route 2 . — Madrid : Royal Picture Gallery. Sect. I. Neefs : The Interior of a Cathedral in the Low Countries. A first-rate example of the master. No. 1491 (1717), A. Moro : A portrait of a lady richly dressed; fine. No. 1756 (1618), D. Teniers , the younger : another Temptation of St. Anthony. No. 1312 (1544), G. Dow: An Old Man reading; not a good specimen. Nos. 1504, 1498, and 1502 (1617, 1375, and 1419), P . Neefs : Interiors of churches. No. 1489 (1376), A. Moro : Portrait of a young lady, supposed to be the daughter of Don Manuel, King of Portugal, but on insufficient grounds ; very fine. No. 1490 (1382), id. : Por- trait of a lady unknown ; equally fine, but injured by restoration. Nos. 1500, 1501, and 1497 (1335, 1418, and 1374), P. Neefs : other interiors ; cleverly and minutely painted. No. 1492 (1719), A. Moro : Portrait of a Princess of the House of Austria ; fine. No. 1730 (1464), (?) the elder Teniers : A drink- ing Bout. Compartment c. — No. 1584 (1662), Rubens : Ceres and Pomona. The female figures of a much nobler type than usual with the painter; the colour superb ; rather overcleaned and restored. No. 1690 (1580.), (?) Sny- ders: Dogs baiting a Bull. No. 1536 (1824), JPorbus: Portrait of the Em- peror Ferdinand II. ; damaged by fire and much repainted. No. 1726 (1480), Old Teniers: A Tavern Scene. No. 1564 (407 ), Rubens : The Supper at Emmaus ; fine, but treated with little dignity. No. 1722 (1460), (?) Old Teniers: Players at Bowls. No. 1534 (1768), Porbus : Portrait of Maria de Medicis ; damaged by fire and repainted, but in- teresting. No. 1609 (1515), (?) Rubens: Portrait of Sir Thomas More. If by Kubens, which is very doubtful, it must be a copy of an earlier pic- ture, perhaps bv Holbein. No. 1405 (1301), Jordaens : The Marriage of St. Catherine. No. 1561 (1220), Rubens: Holy Family. One of his most charm- ing and richly-coloured compositions ; the landscape is excellent. There is a replica or copy in our National Gal- lery. No. 1485 (1241), A. Moro: Portrait of Catherine, Queen of John | III. of Portugal, and sister of Charles Y. ; very fine, but somewhat repainted ; the dress is admirable. Nos. 1455 and 1456 (1370 and 1372), /. Miel : Sportsmen at an Inn door, and Boors at play; clever but hard. No. 1803 (1404), De Vos : Stag hunted by Dogs ; spirited. Compartment d.— No. 1370 (1323), J. Fyt : Game and Fruit ; a very fine example of the master. No. 1372 (1355), id. : Ducks attacked by Eagles. No. 1245 (1497), J. Breughel: St. Eustacliius, figures attributed to Ru- bens. No. 1720 (1380), (?) the elder Teniers: A Rustic Dance. No. 1278 (1444), J. Breughel: A Marriage Feast, presided over by the Archduke Albert and his wife ; interesting as illustrat- ing the costumes and manners of the time. No. 1244 (1516), id. : Paradise ; a fine example of the painter’s minute treatment of details. No. 1837 (1608), Wouvermans : A Skirmish. No. 1274 (1321), J. Breughel , figures by Van Hellemont : A Village Marriage Feast ; interesting for costume. No. 1723 (1342), (?) D. Teniers the younger : Practising at a Target. No. 1744 (1349), id. : A Soldier repairing Ar- mour. No. 1833 (1467), Wouvermans : A Hawking Party — horses drinking ; a charming example of the master. No. 1441 (1551), G. Melsu : Dead Fowl — very clever. No. 1277 (1443), J. Breughel: A Village Marriage Proces- sion ; interesting. No. 1566 (1575), Rubens : Rudolpli of Hapsburg giving- up his horse to a priest whom he met bearing the Host ; a chef d’oeuvre of the master. No. 1836 (1541), Wouver- mans : A Cavalry Skirmish. Compartment e— No. 1787, Valhen - burg: Landscape with Rocks. No. 1611 (1976), Rubens : “ The Garden of Love,” full of life and colour ; a replica of this picture in the Palace of the Duke of Pastrana is even finer. No. 1560 (451), id. : Holy Family ; very fine. No. 1587 (1686), id. : Satyrs and Nymphs — coarse Flemish women grandly painted. No. 1612 (1373), id. : A Village Dance ; a splendidly coloured and most spirited group of The Castiles. 71 Route 2 . — Royal Picture Gallery . peasants in a charming landscape. No. 1161 (1665), Jean Van Artois: A landscape, with Diana and her nymphs bathing. No. 1610 (1358), Rubens: An excellent portrait of a royal prin- cess of France, in a rich black dress. No. 1506 (1275), Van der Neer : A Cavalry Skirmish. No. 1552 (1292), Rubens : Adoration of the Magi ; a large altar-piece, said to have been painted by him in a few days during his residence at Madrid ; broadly and vigorously treated. No. 1391 (1237), Be Ueem: Flowers, &c. No. 1392 (1196), id. : companion to No. 1391, and an excellent example of the master. No. 1582 (1449), Rubens : Ulysses dis- covering Achilles. No. 1569 (1511), id.: St. James ; a powerfully painted head. Room J, Compartment a. — No. 1581 (1300), Rubens : TheBanquet of Tireus; a disgusting subject powerfully treated. No. 1594 (1320), id.: Mercury and Argos; fine. No. 1613 (1666), id. : Adam and Eve; a copy with some variations of Titian’s picture in the long gallery (No. 456), made for Charles I. It is interesting to com- pare the two. No. 1495 (1804), A. Moro: Fine female portrait, but in- jured by restoration. No. 1415 (1616), S. Koninck : Portraits of unknown persons. No. 1527 (1191), Clara Peeters : an excellent study of fruit, flowers, &c., by this little-known female painter. No. 1590 (1704), Rubens: The Judgment of Paris; one of the painter’s grand studies of coarse, flabby, naked Flemish women. No. 1583 (1528), id. : Atalanta and Meleager hunting the Caledonian boar ; a glorious woodland scene in the painter’s best manner, well deserving of study. No. 1338 (1772), Vandyke : Portrait of Polixena Spinola, Mar- chioness of Leganes ; fine. No. 1592 (1716), Rubens : Diana and Calisto ; another example of his superb colour- ing. No. 1591 (1710), id. : The Graces; grand study of the female nude. Compartment b.— No. 1727 (1356), old B. Teniers : St. Paul and St. Anthony the Hermits. No. 1533 (1308), Porbus : Female portrait. No. 1334 (1559), Vandyke : A Monk, badly restored. No. 1718 (1210), B. Teniers the younger : A Rustic Festival, over which the Archduke Leopold presides. No. 1535 (1826), Porbus: Portrait of the Infanta Dona Ana, wife of Louis XIII. N os. 1759 to 1770, young Teniers: illustrations of Tasso’s Gerusalemme Liber ata. No. 1488 (1792), A. Moro : A fine portrait of the Princess Juana of Austria, daughter of Charles Y. No. 1 608 (1 350), Rubens : Equestrian por- trait of the Infante Don Ferdinand of Austria, at the battle of Nordlingen. Compartment c. — Nos. 1487 and 1486 (1803 and 1258), A. Moro : Por- traits of the Emperor Maximilian and of his wife, Dofia Maria of Austria, daughter of Charles V.; fine but badly restored. No. 1279 (1422), J. Breughel : Village occupations; curious. No. 1493 (1714), attributed to A. Moro: Two small female portraits ; fine. Compartment d. — No. 1373, Fyt : Dead Game. No. 1390 (1668), Van Haarlem : The Judgment-seat of the Gods; imitation of the Roman school. No. 1813, attributed to de Fos, but probably Snyders: Dogs hunting an Otter. No. 1747 (1274), B. Teniers the younger : The Archduke Leopold William in his picture gallery at Brussels, accompanied by the painter, who signs himself, “ Pintor de la Ca- mera de S.A.SP No. 1657 (1609), B. Ryekaert : The Alchemist. Compartment e. — No. 1280 (1743), J. Breughel: A Scene in Flanders. No. 1147 (1228), A. Andriaenssen : A clever study of dead game and fish. This compartment contains many fine Breughels. Room K contains portraits of the Bourbons of Spain. Nos. 731 and 732, Charles IY. and his Queen, Maria Louisa, on horseback, by Goya. No. 1427, Charles IY. when Prince of the Asturias, by Mengs. No. 2067, Charles III. Nos. 773 a, 773 g, 219a, and 7735, The four Wives of Ferdi- nand VII. No. 736, Goya : Charles IY., his wife, children, &c. It would be 72 Sect. I. Route 2. — Madrid : Royal Picture Gallery . difficult to find a more hideous family, and Goya seems to have taken plea- sure in painting them in all their hideousness ; the details are an ex- cellent example of his vigorous and effective style, in which he frequently approaches Velasquez, and has been imitated by the modern Spanish school. No. 2018, Van Loo : Philip V. and his Family ; less disagreeable in appear- ance than the previous group. If the visitor has entered the Museum by the principal entrance, he should now descend by the staircase to rt. to the lower or basement floor. Nos. 1152, 1153 (1783, 1787), Alsloot: Processions of religious and other cor- porations in Brussels during the Spanish occupation — very interesting, illustrating the dresses, customs, and architecture of the time — which were formerly on the staircase, have been put out of sight. The three compartments a, b, c of Room L are occupied by the best pic- tures of the contemporary Spanish school, among the most important being, Pradilla : Juana la Loca. Rosales: Death of Isabel la Catolica ; a young artist of promise, who died young in 1873; Casado : Campana de Huesca. Placencia : Death of Lu- crezia. TJrgel : “ Que solos se quedan los muertos,” and many other pictures of interest. Room M contains a small collection of original drawings, chiefly of Spanish artists — A. Cano, Careno, el Mudo, Goya, and others, but none of Velas- quez, and only one attributed to Mu- rillo. The original design for the high altar of the church of San Juan de los Reyes at Toledo, by the architect, Juan Guas, is interesting. The visitor should now enter the sculpture gallery on the same floor. Room N contains a miscellaneous col- lection of Greek vases, ancient and modern bronzes, ivory carvings, objects in porphyry, precious marbles, &c. Room O. — The most interesting sculptures are in the centre : obs. fine full-length bronze statue of Isabella (diva Isabella , as she is called in the inscription), wife of Charles V., by Pompeio Leoni , dated 1564. A marble bust of Philip II. A grand bronze group of Charles V. trampling upon an allegorical figure of War, by Pompeio Leoni. By the same : A bronze full- length of Philip II., who is called in the inscription “ Anglise Rex/’ By the same: Fine bronze bust of Charles V., supported by two human figures and an eagle. By the same : Full-length bronze figure of Maria, wife of Louis, King of Hungary, a sister of Charles V., in the dress of a nun. An ancient female torso in marble. Part of a female figure in marble, said to have been discovered at Pompeii. Colossal reclining figure of Cleopatra, said to be from Herculaneum. Some of the Roman statues and busts arranged round the room are interesting.* Room P. — The only object of much interest in this room is an ancient group of two youths before an altar, one bear- ing two torches, called Castor and Pol- lux, but the subject is doubtful. Room Q. — In the centre are full- length statues and busts of members of the reigning family of Bourbon, of no interest or merit. At the sides, Roman . statues and busts, among which the head of Cicero, No. 309, and Nos. 458-413 are worthy of notice. At the end of the room are two interest- ing bas-reliefs of Charles V. and his wife, the Empress Isabella ; attributed to Pompeio Leoni. Now return to entrance A and descend to Room R, Salones de Al- fonso XII., which will be opened on application to one of the at- tendants. The staircase leading to this room is hung with a series of portraits, some of which are in- teresting ; among them is No. 927 (290), Portrait of Charles V. ; a copy from an earlier picture by some un- known author. Pantoja signs himself on it “ Traductor.” Room R contains a small but interesting collection of * The student will find further details of the sculpture at the Madrid Gallery in Emil Htibner, ‘Antiken Bildwerke in Madrid/ Ber- lin, 1862 . 73 'Route 2 . — Royal Picture Gallery. The Castiles. early Spanish and Flemish pictures. No. 2514 u, A Nativity, by a Spanish painter who appears to have studied in Italy and closely imitated the Um- brian school : perhaps Juan de Bor - gogna. No. 2148, attributed to Berru- guete , who lived in the 15th centy. : a very interesting representation of an “auto-, de fe,” presided over by S. Domingo de Guzman, who is seated on a throne with three judges on each side. The “ Holy Inquisitor/' as the author of the catalogue styles him, is superintending the burning of two heretics, two more being about to share the same fate. The costumes of the persons witnessing the scene are curious. Nos. 2139 to 2147, attributed to the same painter, represent miracles of S. Domingo de Guzman and other saints. They are all interesting for costume. It is doubtful whether they are by Berruguete, of whom authentic works are unknown. They are not wanting in a certain vigour of expres- sion and inharmonious colouring, and they show that mixture of Italian and Flemish art which is characteristic of the Spanish painters of the 15th centy. Nos. 2155 to 2160 are doubtfully at- tributed to Fernando Gallegos , another Spanish painter of the 15th centy. They represent the history of St. John the Baptist. The painter, whoever he may have been, imitated the Flemish masters, especially in his draperies. Nos. 2178 to 2183 : History of the Virgin, attributed to a painter of Castile ; they are evidently by a dif- ferent hand from the others and by a closer imitator of the Flemish school. They are not without a certain power, but are coarse and exaggerated in treatment. No. 2154c, Correa : St. Anne, the Virgin, and Infant Christ. The painter seems to have imitated Lorenzo de Credi in this work. No. 2154d, Correa: two Saints. No. 2154, id. : The Assumption of the Virgin, in the manner of Juan de Juanes, whom the painter sometimes imitated. Compartment b. — Nos. 573 and 574 (885 and 889), attributed to Pinturic- cliio, but inferior to him : two cassone pictures representing the 11 ape of the Sabines. No. 2150, Carvalho : St. Catherine, signed by the painter, who is conjectured from his name to have been a Portuguese. No. 1180 (965), Bosch : The creation of Adam and Eve, with his usual grotesque accessories. Compartment c. — Nos. 1314 and 1315 (1069 and 956), attributed to A. Purer , but ? copies of the pictures in the Munich Gallery : Adam and Eve. No. 1221 (1012), Old Breughel: The Triumph of Death: full of horrors. Nos. 1399 and 1400 (1612 and 1614) : two good portraits, dated 1531, of the school of Holbein. No. 1171 (493), Henry Met de Bles , called Civetta : A triptych with the Adoration of the Magi, the Queen of Sheba visiting Solomon, and Herod on his throne ; re- markable for its minutely executed details. No. 1175 (444), Bosch: The Adoration of the Magi ; a very fine triptych, the details excellent; attri- buted by some to Bosch’s master, Met de Bles (Civetta). No. 1176 (446), Bosch : The Temptation of St. Anthony, a subject which enabled the painter to introduce abundant grotesque details. No. 219a, B. Vander Weyden: The Descent from the Cross, a replica of the picture in Boom G. No. 1817 (466), attributed, but wrongly, to the same: The Crucifixion; good. No. 1525 (1454), Patinir: St. Francis of Assisi in the desert; good. No. 1523 (504), id. : The Temptation of St. Anthony ; the landscape very fine. No. 2188, J. Van Eyck: A splendid altar-piece, representing the triumph of the Church over the Synagogue. Its authorship has been the subject of much contro- versy. The lower part, for variety, truth and power of expression, vigorous drawing and rich colour, and the Gothic architecture, with the exquisite tracing of the spire and of the fountain through which flows the crystal stream from the throne of God, bearing the sacred wafers, are worthy of this great painter. The figures in the upper part are in- ferior to those in the lower, and some detect in them the hands of his scholars, and of his sister, Margaret. Crowe and Cavalcaselle (‘ Early Flemish Painters’) consider it the work of a 74 Boute 2 . — Madrid : Museo Nacional . Sect. I. single hand, J. Van Eyck, and are of opinion “ that for power of conception, creation, and distribution, there is no picture of the Flemish school which approaches it except the Agnus Dei of St. Bavon (the famous 4 Adoration of the Lamb’), by the same master. No. 1519 (413), Patinir : The Flight into Egypt, a favourite subject of this excellent painter. No. 1522 (494), id . : St. Jerome, with a fine landscape back- ground. Nos. 2189 to 2193, a grand triptych altar-piece attributed to R. Wander Weyden the Elder : The Cru- cifixion, with sacred subjects and the sacraments in small tablets ; Adam and Eve and the Last Judgment, and Christ tempted by the Pharisees (in chiaroscuro), on the wings or shutters. An important work, full of interesting and carefully executed details. Nos. 1304 and 1305 (1020 and 1006), Old Cranach : Charles V. hunting at Moritzburg with the Duke of Saxony and other German princes in 1544 ; very curious and interesting for the costumes.* A room on the upper floor, reached by a staircase opening into the en- trance rotunda (A), contains paint- ings by Goya for the Royal Tapestry manufactory; interesting as illustra- tions of Spanish costumes and manners at the beginning of this century. It will be opened on application to an attendant. The Museum is not finally arranged (1882), and the pictures are constantly changed from their places. § 14. Museo Nacional; Museo de Reproducciones ; Academies ; Pri- vate Galleries. Museo Nacional, in the old convent de la Trinidad, Calle de Atocha (now occupied by the Minister io de Fomento). The pictures — about 200 in number — which are here collected, were those saved from the general ruin upon the suppression of convents, and the in- * The copies in oil and water colours by Don Alejandro Grau, Carretera de Aragon, 9. 3°, are highly recommended. The fan paintings by Josefa Murillo, Olozaga, 5. 4°, are very good. vasion of the French : they are badly hung, and scattered unarranged through the different rooms and pas- sages of the building. Among the best things, of which it is impossible to give a regular account, as nothing is in order, and changes are constantly taking place, obs. the series of pictures representing the life of St. Bruno, and the sufferings of Carthusian monks when persecuted by our Henry VIII. ; these were painted for the convent of El Paular by Car- ducho (the author of the Dialogos, 1633). All the rest of the old pictures which are of any interest have been removed to the Museo del Prado, and their places have been filled by some productions of the modern Spanish school. Museo de Beproducciones, a small and interesting collection of casts and reproductions of objects of classic art, may be seen at the Cason del Retiro , opposite the entrance to the Retiro which leads to the Parterre. The ceiling of the large central saloon, which formerly formed part of the Palace of the Retiro, is very finely painted by Lucas Giordano. Academy of Fine Arts, or of San Fernando, in the Calle de Alcala (in the same building as the Museo of Natural History). On the ground-floor is a collection of plaster casts made by Mengs, in the hope of furnishing models from antique sculpture, in which Spain was so very deficient. There are also sold impressions of such pictures in the Museum as have been engraved, the Caprichos of Goya, and some good aquaforte by Maura. In the Salon de Sessiones, or room in which the members of the Academy hold their meetings, are : Murillo, St. Elizabeth, or Isabel, of Hungary, tend- ing the sick poor, commonly called u el Tifioso” from the saint applying remedies to the scabby head of a pauper urchin; she is full of tenderness; the sores are too truly painted to be agree- able, but her saint-like charity enno- bles these horrors, and the service of The Castiles. Route 2. — Academies . 75 love knows no degradation. Her young, beautiful, almost divine head contrasts with that of the beggar hag in the foreground. This picture was carried off by Soult from La Caridad of Seville, of which in subject it was the appro- priate gem, and presented to the Louvre. As placed originally by Mu- rillo in a hospital, the subject and in- tention were evident and appropriate. The other pictures most worthy of attention in this room are : — Zur- betran , the Mass of St. Benito ; Rizzi , a saint adoring; A. Cano , the Cruci- fixion; Ribera , St. Francis with the Infant Christ and the Magdalene borne by Angels ; Murillo , two early pictures representing the agony of St. Francis, and St. Diego de Alcala feeding the poor ; Carreno, copy of the Spasmo de Sicilia, by Raphael, in the Gallery of the Prado ; Morales, a Pieta ; Tristan , St. Jerome; Bellini , a head of Christ; Murillo , the Resurrection (an inferior picture) ; Rubens , Susanna and the Elders. In the centre saloon are two superb Murillos, taken by Soult from Santa Maria la Blanca at Seville, and sent to Paris, but afterwards rescued like the Santa Isabel. These glorious pictures represent the legend of the dream of el Patricio Romano , which preceded the building of Santa Maria Maggiore at Rome, under Pope Liberius, about the year 360 ; they are semicircular in shape, to fit the gaps still visible at Seville. The additional paintings in the angles are an unfortunate perfec- tionnement, added in France, and dis- tract from the originals, which were both ruthlessly over-cleaned in Paris, and have since been much repainted by one Garcia. The Dream, the better of the two, is an exquisite representation of the sen- timent sleep. The Roman senator is fast asleep ; the closed book by his side suggests he had been reading some- thing which brought pious thoughts, and the dream followed. The Virgin in the air points out the site of the future church. The companion picture, where the dreamer explains his vision to the pontiff, is painted in the vaporoso style : the distant procession is admirable. Goya , a recumbent female figure (not of the Duchess of Alba, as generally said), but of a famous actress of the time: 4 clever sketches by the same eccentric master. Entrance Room. Observe a portrait of Godoy by Goya , and a few pictures of the Spanish school of no importance. Salon de la Secretaria. Zurbctran , five full-length pictures of Benedictine monks, very characteristic of the mas- ter ; Mengs , portrait of la Marquesa de los Llanos , interesting for costume; Carreno , copies of Velasquez, portraits of Philip IV. and Mariana of Austria, and a number of portraits by Goya and other artists of little interest. A statue of San Bruno, by Manuel Pereyra (ob. 1667), which used to stand in the niche over the Hospederia de los Car- tujos in the Calle de Alcala. An inner room contains a study of the nude figure represented in the middle room. These pictures are badly lighted and hung. Academy of History, Calle de Leon 21, contains a valuable collection of historical MSS., papal bulls, and early rituals and missals (amongst them the Forum Judicum and a Gothic ritual earlier even than the Mozarabic rite), brought from suppressed convents and other public establishments, and a good library. It has also a small collec- tion of artistic objects, of which the most important are : a circular disc in silver, 23 inches in diameter, of historical and artistic interest, dis- covered at Almendralejo, near Merida, in 1847, upon which is represented in relief, according to the inscription upon it, the Emperor Theodosius the Great, seated on his throne between his two sons, and surrounded by his guards, in the act of delivering a roll of the laws to the governor of a province ; underneath the Emperor there is a female figure of Plenty, with Cupids on each side : two early Romano- Christian sarcophagi; part of an ancient Arab banner, with Cufic inscription ; an 76 Sect. 1. Route 2. — Madrid : exceedingly interesting reliquary with folding doors, upon which are painted scenes from the life of the Virgin, and of the Passion, and angels playing on musical instruments (the painted and carved ornaments are Moorish in style ; an inscription on it states that it was dedicated in 1390 ; the paintings are more Italian than Spanish in style. Their combination with Arab decora- tions is very remarkable, as showing the Arabic influence which then still existed in the centre of Spain) : an ancient Arab ivory casket, several Roman and Arabic inscriptions, and a collection of medals and coins. The Spanish Academy (de la Len- gua) is at the Calle de Valverde. Aca- demia de Ciencias Morales yPoliticas, Plaza de la Villa. Academia de Ciencias Fisicas y Naturales. Aca- demia de Medicina. The Galleries of the Duke de Me- dinaceli, the Duke of Alba, and of the Duke de Pastrana, may also be visited by means of cards obtainable upon application to the administrador of the respective owners. The collection of the Duke of Medinaceli contains a good portrait, by Velasquez ; Pantoja de la Cruz , a portrait of Charles V. ; Murillo, a por- trait; The Siege of Bethulia, by Martin Schoen , and a sacred subject, Pierin del Vacja. In the collection of the Duke de Pastrana, inherited from the family of Infantado, are some important pictures, including a fine replica of the “ J ardin d’ Amour,” by Rubens, several other works by the same master, a Holy Family by Vandych, also a portrait of the celebrated Princess of Eboli. § 15. Public Buildings. El Senado (House of Lords), in the Plaza de los Ministerios, is an ugly, unimposing edifice; it contains some good modern Spanish pictures. Near it is La Casa de los Ministerios, built for the Secretaries of State by Lt.-Gen. Sabatini, by order of Charles IV. : it was splendidly fitted up by Godoy, Public Buildings . and has a grand staircase and column- supported vestibule. In the library are 3 fresco medallions painted by Goya. The ante-rooms were thronged with waiters on providence and with patient sufferers, emblems of hope and salary deferred, for here were formerly the offices of the Ministers of War, Marine, Justice, and Finance ; now that of the Admiralty or Marina only remains. Finance is removed to the Calle de Alcala, No. 9; War to the Buena Vista, Calle de Alcala, No. 53; Gracia y Justicia to the old Inquisicion in the Calle Ancha de San Bernardo ; and the Ministry of State is in the ground-floor of the palace. This Casa de los Ministerios was much damaged by fire, Oct. 31, 1846, when many of the archives were burnt and lost. El Congreso de los Diputados (House of Commons) is now held in the hand- some edifice in the Plaza de las Cortes. This Parliament-house was begun in 1842 by the architect Colomer, and completed in 1850. The interior is lofty, and the galleries for strangers convenient. In the centre of the principal facade is a pediment re- presenting Spain receiving Law, ac- companied by Power and Justice. The sides of the entrance-steps in front of El Congreso were adorned by two clumsily-executed stone lions ; one of these was, however, decapitated by a cannon-ball during the emeute of 1854, and they are now replaced by two similar monsters in bronze. The frescoes in the house itself are indifferent : obs., however, the paint- ing of the “ Comuneros,” by Gisbert , in the Sala de la Presidencia. It represents the execution of the three brave leaders of that unfortunate “puritan” band. The dead man whose decapitated head is being held towards the crucifix is Juan Bravo, the noble chief; Juan Padilla stands in the centre ; whilst Francisco Mal- donado occupies the rt.-hand corner of the mournful scene. The Ministerial Bench is called el banco azul. Members speak from their seats. The public are admitted to that part of the house called la Tribuna Publica, but The Castries. 77 Route 2 . — Public Buildings. strangers are admitted to la Tribuna Reservada upon the introduction of a Diputado. Spaniards in their collective capacity have rarely as yet exhibited the com- mon sense, the honourable feeling, and the good manners for which as indi- viduals they are so very remarkable ; this apparent defect in the Spanish political character has been doubtless owing to the total absence of any well- organized system of constitutional government ; there have been no parliamentary parties, no regular “ her Majesty’s Opposition,” for everything is different in Spain from what it is with us. In England the leader of the Opposition benches is a minister u in posse ; ” but here, as in the East, the premier power and authority has been a thing of the present , ready to collapse as soon as the leader of some rival cabal had sufficient power to enable him to oust his opponent. The noble people of Spain have, indeed, had legs, arms, and hearts, but a head has hitherto been wanting. The only abstract Spanish idea of government or sovereignty, either in Church or State, from the reign of Philip II. to that of Isabel II., which terminated in the autumn of 1868, has been despotic. Nor can a despotic rule be said to have been really unpopular; even the In- quisition had its supporters among the people : and whenever Ferdinand VII. committed any extra atrocious act, his subjects exclaimed with rapture, “ Es muclio Bey /” (he is indeed a king, ay, every inch!) There spoke the whole nation, for all Spaniards felt that, in his place, they would have done exactly the same, and therefore sympathisingly admired. Power ex- pressed by violence flattered their pride, as each atom beheld his own personal greatness represented and re- flected in that of his monarch. A strong government is absolutely neces- sary for Spain, and if it can only be rendered enlightened , or ilustrado , it will prove a blessing to Spaniards. The Cortes and constitution have long been mere words, and the elections a mockery ; the Gobernadores and the alcades have invariably tampered with the registries, and intimidated the voters: while opposition candidates if elected have been terrorised by the sword. What is now wanting for the whole peninsula, is peace, an educated wealthy middle class , and a strong fixed government. It is to this ne- cessity of repose that must be attri- buted the apathy of the shrewd nation during the latter years of Bourbon mismanagement, and the well-advised indifference with which it has inva- riably allowed its charters to be rent. The Casa de los Consejos, built by Francisco de Mora for the Duque de Uceda, is a fine Herrera elevation, but the interior was never properly finished ; the chief facade looks N. Cross the Viaduct, look at the view, in going to the convent of San Fran- cisco, a vast pile, placed in an out-of- the-way locality. The convent itself is now used as a barrack, and the chapel as a parish church. It was designed by the monk Francisco Cabezas, and finished in 1784 by Sabatini. Here was buried Dona Juana, the fair and frail Queen of Enrique IV., and also the magician Enrique de Villena, whose books were burnt in the clois- ters of Santo Domingo el Real, in Madrid, by ordepof Enrique IV. The church is now being restored at great cost. It is one of the finest build- ings in Madrid : it is in the form of a rotunda, surrounded with chapels; the dome is 163 feet high. Obs. the paint- ings by contemporary artists. The Jubileo de la Porciuncula was painted by the feeble Bayeu ; the pictures in the chapels by Maella, Calleja, Goya, Velasquez (not Diego), and others, are no better. During the reign of Joseph Buonaparte this church was used for the meeting of the Cortes. In 1869 it was made into a national Pantheon, and the remains of many illustrious Spaniards were torn from their resting-places and deposited here. But this transfer was very unpopular in the Provinces, and most of the bodies have been reclaimed and re- stored. 78 Boute 2. — Madrid: Churches. Sect. I. Proceed next into the intricate Prout-like jumble of lanes, the old Moreria. All this side of Madrid (which hangs over the river) was the ancient town, and contrasts with the newer portions near and beyond the Puerta del Sol ; thence return by the Viaduct to the Calle Mayor. § 16 . Churches; Courts of Law; Audiencia ; Observatory. Protestant meetings and schools for Spaniards : — English Church of England service, Leganitos 4 ; Calle Madera Baja 8, G. and 8.; Chamberi Glorieta de Quevedo 5, 0. and S. ; Calle Calatrava 27, G. and 8. ; Penuelas-Moratin, G. and 8. Further information will be given by Albert Fenn, Esq., Calle Real 12, Chamberi, Madrid. The Ch. of San Andres in its pla- zuela , which was used by Ferdinand and Isabella the Catholic as their parish church. Here Madrid’s glorious ploughboy patron, San Isidro, went to mass and was buried; his body was removed in 1769 to San Isidro el Real, but a small reja in the presbiterio marks the site where he was buried in 1130: obs. the ancient arch and inspect his coffin-box ; his standing wooden effigy is curious for costume. The gaudy Churrigueresque chapel was raised about 1657. The miracles of the tutelar are painted by Carreho and the Rizzi ; observe that in which Alonso VIII. recognises in the body of San Isidro the peasant who led his armies to victory at las Navas de Tolosa. Adjoining is la Capilla del Obispo, one of the few old Gothic specimens in modern Madrid. It is so called because built by Gutierrez de Vargas y Carvajal, Bishop of Plasencia, in 1547. The excellent Betablo and Berruguete carvings are by Francisco Giralte, and painted by Juan de Vil- laldo in 1548 : the superb plateresque sepulchres of the prelate and his family are also by Giralte. This chapel was injured in 1755 by the Lisbon earth- quake, and repaired in vile taste. There are some good carvings in the Sacristia , and a wooden effigy of the saint in his rustic costume. During Holy week, and at other great festi- vals, some fine tapestry is hung up in the chapel. La Latina, or Uuestra Senora de la Concepcion, in the Calle de Toledo, a hospital founded 1499 by Beatriz Galindo, who taught Queen Isabel Latin. Obs. its portal : it was built by a Moor named Hazan, and finished (see date over portal) in 1507. Those who wish to see old Madrid and the quarters of the Populacho may thread the Calles del Duque de Alba, Jesus y Maria, to the Lavapies; all this locality is a sort of Seven Dials : every Sunday morning at the Rastro, near the Portillo de los Em- bajadores, is a sort of fair, and a setting up of book-stalls, where fan- ciers of bric-a-brac may pick up many nice things. The Calle de Zurita, de la Comadre, Campillo de Manuela, &c., are and have long been the homes and sties of Manolos and Manolas , of Chris- peros , Gitanos , Ghalanes , and other picturesque rogues, since the days of Quevedo, although, alas ! in the pre- sent civilization of the coat and cotton, they have almost abandoned their natural costume. Those who have no taste for a Castilian St. Giles may pass up la Latina to The Ch. of San Isidro el Real, in the Calle de Toledo. This, once a Jesuits’ college and now a parish church, is called la Colegiata ; it was built in 1651 ; here bad taste and Cliur- riguerismo reign undisputed. Some cupolas are painted in fresco by Donoso and Claudio Coello ; an image by Be- cerra, N a . S a . de la Soledad, placed in a small gilded chapel, is well carved and painted, and is full of sorrow and solitude. In the Sacristia is a Christ and St. Peter, by Morales ; enter and look at the Capilla Mayor, which was repaired by Rodriguez. Here repose the ashes of the holy ploughboy San Tlie Castiles. 79 Route 2.- Isidro and his Santa Esposa: his statue is by Pereyra. Here rest the remains of Daoiz, Velarde, and some of Murat’s victims of the “ Dos de Mayo” which were removed from the Prado, May 2, 1 814, with great pomp. Look into the chapels and sacristies, to see to what extent marbles, cupolas, and gilt gingerbread Rococo can be carried : obs. a Morales. The library, which once belonged to the Jesuits, is still here, and is open to the public. The Church of San Gines, in the Oalle del Arenal, built about 1358, in- jured by fire in 1824, and restored in 1874. Obs. inside the Paso del Santo Oristo, carved by Vergaz , and a good painting of 44 Christ seated and stripped,” by Alonso Cano. Descend to the Boveda, or dark vault, where during Lent flagellants whip them- selves, the sexton furnishing the cats ; some have nine tails, and are really stained with blood. In the good old times of Philip IV. Spaniards whipped themselves publicly in the streets.* Las Salesas Reales. This enormous nunnery, a second Escorial, was built in 1758, by one Carlier, for Barbara, queen of Ferdinand VI., in imitation of Madame de Main tenon’s St. Cyr, as a place of retreat for herself, and a seminary for young noble females. The size, enormous cost, and bad taste led the critics to exclaim, 44 Barbara Reina , barbara obra , barbaro gusto , barbaro gasto.” f Over the faQade is a bas-relief of Huestra Senora de la Visit acion, to which mystery the building is dedicated. The king and queen, who would not mix their French ashes with those of Austrians, are buried here; their tombs, designed by Sabatini, and executed by Gutierrez, are wrought of the finest materials, but the figures of Plenty and Justice are imagined after the taste and truth of the grand epitaphs composed by the poet Juan de Iriarte. The marbles of the high * See Madame d’Aulnoy’s * Travels.’ . 4 Barbara, besides meaning barbarous, has m Spanish, the secondary signification of im- mense, outrageous. -Cl Lurches. altar are truly magnificent : the green pillars were brought from the quarries of San Juan near Granada. General O’Donell, the Duke of Tetuan, is buried here. The imposing Corinthian chapel is now converted into a parish church and the nunnery into courts of law, the 4 Audiencia’ having been established here. The convent de las Descalzas Reales in its plaza was founded in 1559 by Juana, daughter of Charles V., and mother of the famous Don Sebastian of Portugal. Obs. her kneeling effigy placed on her tomb, and wrought in marble by P. Leoni. The frescoes were painted in 1756 by Velasquez (not Diego). The JRetablo of the high altar is by Becerra. The abbess of this convent ranks as a grandee. San Ildefonso was rebuilt in 1827, the French having destroyed the former church. San Marcos, Calie de San Leonardo, was erected by Ventura Rodriguez, who lies buried in it. The Convent of Atocha was founded in 1523 for Dominicans, by Hurtado de Mendoza , confessor to Charles V. It was enriched by a succession of pious princes, and mostly in a period of the vilest taste. The ceilings were painted by L. Giordano , and the chapels were filled with vessels of gold and silver. These were dese- crated and pillaged by the invaders ; Ferdinand VII., on his return, em- ployed one Isidro Velasquez to re- build it. Over the High Altar is the cele- brated and much revered image of the Virgin, the patroness of Madrid, and especial protectress of the royal family. Thus Ferdinand VII., when he conspired against his parents, first bowed down before it and craved as- sistance. Again, when he was kid- napped by Savary, before starting for Bayonne, he took the ribbon of the Immaculate Conception off his breast and hung it on liers, where it is still to be seen. Again, after his restora- tion, the first thing he did on reach- ing Madrid was to kneel before the 80 'Route 2. — Madrid: Churches. Sect. I. image, and thank it for having in- terfered and delivered him. So his ancestor Alonso VI., in 1083, on the first reeonqnest of Madrid, laid his banner at her feet. Here the members of the royal family are married, and, when a queen is in the case, her wed- ding-dress becomes a perquisite of this Virgin (as was observed in the case of Isabel II.). She has a mistress of the robes and ladies in waiting. Isabel II. was on her way to this shrine when she. was stabbed by Merino ; the dress, with the dagger breach in it, went to swell the wardrobe of the protecting image. The King of Spain goes in state to attend the service called the “ Salve ” every Saturday afternoon about 4 o’clock. This Virgin ranks as third in holi- ness of the many in Spain, and is only preceded by those of Zaragoza and Guadalupe. Volumes have been writ- ten on it and its miracles.* The image itself is very black and old. Above the heavy altar are hung banners of Spanish victories. In this eh. are buried Castanos, created Duke of Bailen for his victory over the French of that place; Palafox, who defended Zaragoza ; Narvaez; General Concha (Marquis del Duero) ; and General Prim, whose inlaid metal tomb, by the celebrated artist Zuloaga, is splendid and well worthy of atten- tion. The other remarkable Pasos and images in Madrid — not that they are fine — are the Santo Cristo de la Lluvia , kept in San Pedro, on its plaza ; the Santo Cristo de la Fe, in San Sebastian, Calle Atocha ; others brought out in the processions in Holy Week are kept in San Juan de Dios, Plaza de Anton Martin. One of the images of Christ carried in the procession belongs to the house of Medinaceli, and is adorned by the luxurious hair of a repentant Duchess of Medinaceli, and is followed by the Duke and his house- * Consult, besides the sonnets of Lope de Vega, ‘La Patrona de Madrid/ Francisco de Pereda, duo., Valladolid, 1604; ‘ Historia de la Santa Imagen,’ Juan de Marieta, Mad. 1604 ; Ditto, Juan Hurtado Mendoza, 8vo., Mad. 1604; 4 Origen y Ant.iguedad,’ Jeronimo de Quintana, 4 to., Mad. 1637. hold. Nuestro Seiiov de los Azotes , by Pedro Hermoso ; Nuestro Senor en el Sepulcro ; La Soledad, by Becerra ; and Santo Tomas, by Miguel Bubiales. The Confradias or holy confraterni- ties instituted in honour of the Virgin, and in order to light candles to the Host, &c., are infinite. The traveller should not omit to visit the popular shrine of the Virgin de la Paloma, situated in the lower quarters of Ma- drid. In the Church of the Hospital de los Flamencos, Barrio de Salamanca, is a splendid picture by Rubens, repre- senting the martyrdom of Saint An- drew ; it was brought from the old church belonging to the hospital, and is mentioned by Ponz in his ‘Viaje.’ The portrait of the founder is in the sacristy. His name was Carlos de Amberes, ob. 1604. In the church of Sta. Isabel in the street of the same name, there is a fine picture by Ribera, representing the Immaculate Conception, over the high altar. There are so very few churches which the ecclesiologist will find worth visiting at Madrid that he had better hasten to Imperial Toledo, the seat of the primate of Spain. The view of Madrid from the height of San Bias is striking. Rt., in the Buen Retiro gardens, is the Observa- tory, a brick and granite edifice, sur- rounded by gardens with dome and porticoes, built for Charles III. by Juan Villanueva. To the S. is a Corinthian vestibule. The observatory is de- signed to imitate an Ionic temple. This building of science was entirely gutted by the invaders, who here mounted cannon instead of telescopes. Beyond the street of Atocha is the Terminus of the rail to Valencia, Sevilla, Cartagena, Cadiz, and Portu- gal. The first branch was begun in 1846, and the line to Alicante was inaugurated Feb. 9, 1851. A Railway Station has been opened in the Paseo de las Delicias. From The Castiles. 81 Route 2. — Hospitals : lmprenta Real . thence proceeds the shortest and most direct railroad to Toledo and Badajoz (see Rtes. 4 and 70). § 17. Hospitals. Rt., at the corner of the Calle de Atocha, is the huge hospital called El General, founded in 1582 by Philip II., and removed here in 1748 by Ferdi- nand YI. The 1200 patients it contains are well looked after. Adjoining is El Colegio de San Carlos, founded in 1783 by Charles III. as a college of surgeons. It has an anatomical museum, and some wax preparations, chiefly relating to the obstetric art. Spanish hospitals, long most de- ficient in approved medical appliances, are now much improved. In the Calle de Fuencarral is the Hospicio de San Fernando, founded in 1688. The facade by the heresiarch Pedro Bibera , 1726, is the pet speci- men of the vile taste of the Philip Y. period, and certainly it entitled the inventor to his admission into any receptacle for criminals or lunatics. It rivals in outrageous Churrigueresque the Betablo in San Luis. In this hospital 1500 of the decent poor of both sexes are received and employed. The chil- dren are housed, schooled, and taught a trade. The men chiefly print. The Hospital de la Princesa, Calle Ancha San Bernardo, founded in 1857 by the ex-queen Isabella for the poor, is excellently managed. The eminent surgeon, Dn. Federico Rubio, has a special ward there for critical surgical cases. The hospital of San Antonio, Corre- dera de San Pablo, was founded in 1606, and has a good oval chapel, with fresco ceilings, by Rizzi, Carreno, and Giordano. Obs. the Santa Isabel and Santa Engracia, painted by Eugenio Caxes, and the statue of the tutelar by Pereyra. The Foundling Hospital, La Inclusa, in the Calle de los Embajadores, is so [Spain, 1882.] called from a much-venerated image of the Virgin, which was brought by a Spanish soldier from Enkuissen (Enchusen) in Holland : here more than 1200 infants, sinless children of sin, are annually exposed by their unnatural parents. The lying-in asy- lum for these mothers, in the Calle del Rosal, is called, as if in mockery, Nuestra Senora de la Esperanza , for what hope is there for such deserted offspring? The more honest vulgar, however, call it el Pecado mortal , the deadly sin : here unmarried women are confined in both senses of the word. A well-managed Poor-house, or mendicity asylum, was founded in 1834, outside the gate San Bernardino, by the Marquis de Pontejos, by whom was first established, in 1839, theCaja de Ahorros, or savings-bank, which has worked well ; 4 per cent, is paid to depositors. In 1868 some of the de- pendencies of the Palace of the Pardo were turned into an asylum, from which the beggars daily attempt to make their escape, in order to return to a more lucrative existence in the streets of Madrid. § 18. Royal Printing Office; Mint; Stock Exchange ; Banks ; Univer- sity ; Carpet Manufactory. The lmprenta Real has been re- moved to the Calle del Cid 4; the former building, the Calle de Car- retas, now the Post-office, is a heavy building by one Turillo. From this press have issued many splendid specimens of typography. The Plateria de Martinez in the Calle de San Juan is sometimes used for the exhibition of works of art. The panorama of the Escorial is worth seeing, which is in one of the rooms. The Casa de Moneda (or Mint) is in a fine building on the Paseo Recoletos ; the machinery is foreign, the coinage neat. The establishment is capable of turning out 180,000 to 200,000 pieces G 82 Sect. L Houle 2. — Madrid : of money per 24 hours. An interesting collection of old coins and medals, drawings and plans, may also be seen there. Permission is granted by ap- plying by writing to the Sr. Director. The Bolsa de Comercio (Stock Ex- change) is in the Plazuela de la Lena. It was established in 1831, and after being moved to various places, the present edifice was built in 1873 by Senor Repulles. It is open from 2 until 4 o’clock. The National or Government Bank, called de San Fernando, Calle de Atocha, issues notes for 200, 400, 2000, and 4000 reals, which will not readily pass out of Madrid. These notes are cashed every day from 10 to 1. Pre- viously it was called de San Carlos, from having been founded by Charles III. in 1782, and the first of Madrid Avhichever enjoyed exclusive privileges of receiving deposits, and a monopoly of issuing paper ; during the reign of Ferdinand VII. it was called de San Fernando. In spite of the charters granted to San Fernando, an opposi- tion governmental bank, Santa Isabel, was set up, which discounted promis- sory notes, or pagares. Two important banks have been formed lately — Banco de Castilla, Clavel 1, and the Banco Hipotecario, Recoletos 9. The principal insurance companies of Madrid are — La Union; la Urbana ; el Fenix ; and Sociedad nueva de Seguros. The time-honoured University of Alcala was moved in 1837 to Calle Ancha San Bernardo, No. 51. Madrid also possesses an Instituto Libre de Ensenanza, Infantas 42, founded by the professors who were expelled from the University for their liberal opinions in 1875, and reinstated in their places under the Ministry of Sagasta, 1881 ; several Conservatorio de Artes, with mechanical models, free night classes, and library on those subjects ; and a Conservatorio de Musica, founded in 1830 by Christina. Royal Carpet Manufactory, outside the Iionda de Sta. Barbara. This Banks; Palaces . manufactory was founded by Philip V. in 1720, and in it were made all the fine carpets, still in use at the royal palaces, and the tapestries, after the cartoons of Goya, now at the Escorial and the Pardo. Velasquez has made the interior of a carpet manufactory the subject of one of his finest pic- tures — “ Las Hilander as .” The old de- signs are still preserved, and splendid handwoven carpets and tapestries made to order, and it is well worth a visit. Admission is readily granted by the civil director. § 19. Palaces of the Grandees. Remarkable Houses and Graves. Very few of the Palaces of the Gran- dees contain anything worth notice. They were plundered by the French in- vaders, and their owners are not over- gifted with taste. They are large and empty, according to our ideas ; real fur- niture and an air of occupation and life are wanting ; cellars and libraries are curiosities ; the kitchens are cari- catures ; but in truth the art of dining has yet to be really learnt, for the Spaniard, accustomed to his own de- sultory, free and easy, impromptu, scrambling style of eating, is bored and constrained by the order and discipline, the pomp and ceremony, and the serious importance of a well-regulated dinner, and their ob- servance of forms extends mostly to persons, not to things. So many a titulado even has only a thin Euro- pean polish spread over his Gotho- Bedouin dining-table ; he lives and eats surrounded by his household, in his huge barrack-house, without any luxury, or even comfort, according to sound trans-pyrenean notions. Few indeed are the cocinas which possess a cordon bleu, and fewer are the mas- ters who really like an orthodox entree , one unpolluted with the heresies of garlic, saffron, and red pepper : again, whenever their cookery attempts to be foreign, as in their other imitations, it generally ends in being a flavourless copy. Tlie Castilos. 83 Houle 2. — Palaces ; Graves . The Conde de Ohate has a fine house in the Calle Mayor. On festive occasions it is remarkable for the embroidered hangings from the balconies. The Duque de Osuna, in the Calle Don Pedro, has a collec- tion of hereditary books, pictures, and ancient arms. The best specimen of a Spanish nobleman’s house is that of the Duke of Fernan Nunez, which is handsomely furnished, and contains some valuable works of art, including pictures by Titian, Murillo, Francia Sassoferrato, and other Italian and Spanish masters, a collection of family portraits, and a portion of the armour taken by an ancestor of the house from Boabdil, the last Moorish king of Granada. The modern palace of the Duke of Bailen, near the Puerta de Alcala, contains a good collection of modern Spanish pictures. The Count de Valencia de Don Juan pos- sesses an interesting collection of objects of art, porcelain, and MSS., with fine specimens of the celebrated Buen Retiro ware. Charles I. of England, when at Madrid, is said, on very doubtful authority, to have lived in the Casa de las siete Chimeneas, No. 2, Calle de las Infantas, Plazuela del Rey ; our minister Fanshaw lived there. (See his Letters, i. 129.) Built by Herrera, this is one of the oldest mansions in Madrid, and is now undergoing a judicious restoration. T here are very few interesting tombs in modern Madrid, as the finest in the San (jeronimo and San Martin were destroyed by the invaders. Herrera , the architect, was buried in San Nico- las ; Lope de Vega in San Sebastian — he died Aug. 27, 1637, at No. 11, Calle Francos. Velasquez , who died Aug. 7, 1660, was buried in San Juan. It was pulled down in 1811, in the time of the French, and his ashes scattered to the winds, as Soult had treated those of Murillo. So were scattered those of Cervantes : lie died April 23, 1616, in the Calle del Leon, No. 20, Manzana 228, and was buried in the Trinitarias Descalzas, Calle del Humi- lladero, and when the nuns moved to the Calle de Cantarranas the site was forgotten, and his remains are now left unhonoured. In that convent the daughters both of Cervantes and Lope de Vega took the veil. The street in which Cervantes lived is now called Calle de Cervantes ; and the house, No. 2, which he is supposed to have occupied, has his profile placed over the door. In the Calle del Turco, at the comer of the Alcala, General Prim was assas- sinated, and the holes in the wall made by the discharge of the blunderbuss may still be seen. This fine tomb of inlaid ironwork is in the church of Atocha. General O’Donell, the Duke of Tetuan, is buried in the church of Las Salesas. The bones of Calderon de la Barca were moved, April 19, 1841, from the nunnery of Las Calatravas, and in- terred in the Campo Santo de San Andres. The celebrated Padre Enrique Florez (whose works we often quote) died, aged 71, May 5, 1773, in his convent San Felipe el Real, near the Puerta del Sol, and was buried in the fine chapel, which is now all swept away. Here were preserved his splen- did library, and his extraordinary col- lection of notes and papers for the continuation of the ‘ Espaiia Sagrada and for the preservation of which he obtained from Clement XIII. a bull excommunicating all who should re- move or injure them. This, however, proved a brutum fulmen against the invader, as General Belliard, in 1808, turned the beautiful church into a stable, and used up those MSS. and books of Florez which were not burnt under French camp-kettles, to make beds of for the troopers : thus perished antiquarian researches that never can be replaced, as most of the original G 2 84 lloute 2. — Madrid : Environs. Sect. I. documents afterwards met with the same fate from other generals of the invaders ; hence the present difficulty in continuing the ‘ Esparto, Sagrada .’ § 20. Environs of Madrid. The immediate environs of Madrid offer small attraction, as the city stands alone in its desert solitude, hut the view from the Puente de Segovia is fine in its wild, barren, rugged gran- deur. In early spring, when the moun- tains are still covered with snow, it is very striking. There are no suburbs, no rura in urbe , which tempt the citizens beyond the mud wall of their paradise : but the English and American visitor should on no ac- count omit to take a walk or drive out of the Toledo Gate, and over the bridge across the Manzanares (Puente de To- ledo) — 1 Eng. m. — to visit The British Protestant Cemetery. This beautiful little burial-ground is supported by voluntary subscriptions. The ground was purchased on behalf of the English Crown in 1854, after half a century of opposition, by Lord Howden, many years British Ambassa- dor to Spain, in a great degree through his own personal influence with the Court and Ministry. Those who re- member the bitter prejudice of the Spaniards and the bigotry of the clergy in those days, will understand how great the boon to Protestants, and how much credit is due to the diplomatic address and energy which produced for them the right of burial in consecrated ground. Interments at once took place, although the cemetery was not conse- crated until Feb. 1866, by the Bishop of Illinois (U.S. A.). Great praise is due to Colonel Fitch (one of the veterans of the Carlist war) for his constant care and supervision. This little “ God’s Acre” covers exactly an acre of ground, and is surrounded by a high wall. The arms of England surmount the entrance gate, to the rt. of which is the little chapel, and to the 1. the cottage of the care-taker and sexton. Leaving the British Cemetery, re- turn to the level of the river ; do not, however, cross the bridge, but turn 1. to visit the Hermitage of San Isidro del Campo. The grand pilgrimage and festival of this revered rustic, this male patron of Madrid, takes place on May 15, and is a truly national scene ; here may be studied most of the cos- tumes, songs, and dances of the pro- vinces, as the natives settled at Madrid congregate in parties with true local spirit, each preserving their own pe- culiarities. Booths are erected, and eating-houses in which the Gaita Gallega resounds with the Guitarra Andcduza ; vast numbers of the saint’s small pig-bells made of clay are sold, as they avert lightning when well rung. The chief act in this fair is to kiss the saint’s image, and receive the blessing of the priest who holds it. 10,000 kiss this image in one day, and each drops at its feet a farthing. This fair is to the Madrilenian what Greenwich was, on Easter Monday, to the Cockney; the holy ceremony has degenerated into a St. Bartho- lomew fair, but most classes refer to it with pleasure in recollection of their sweet days of youth, fun, and frolic. N.B. Do not omit going there on the Vispera (the afternoon of the 14th). The early popes, by counte- nancing this and similar pilgrimages of piety and fun, rendered acts of devo- tion sources of enjoyment to its be- lievers; and their flocks, wedded to festivals which suited themselves and their climate, will long prefer them to the dreary Sundays of our purer Pro- testantism. Near the Hermitage, continuing to the 1., are the enclosures of the Casa del Campo, 12 m. in circumference, a shooting-box of Charles III., full of well-preserved game and beautiful wild scenery, and connected with the palace by a bridge and a tunnel. A papeleta is easily obtained to visit it by sending a card to the Patrimonio de la Real Casa. No Tlie Castiles. Boute 2. — Environs. 85 cabs are allowed inside. The house and gardens were formed into a model farm by Queen Christina. The gardens are well supplied with water, and there is a beautiful Italian marble fountain. Here in the winter and spring there are pigeon-shooting matches. The view of Madrid from the lake is very striking. Those who like to walk out to the Hermitage of San Antonio will see some of his miracles painted by Goya, and some tawdry frescoes by the feeble Maella. Near the railway station is a Refuge built by Dona Maria Vic- toria for the children of the washer- women while at work. Another walk ascends to the rt. to San Bernardino, and hence to the street of Fuencarral, outside of which is a cemetery. The new model Jail is situated at the end of the Barrio de Pozas, near the Poor House of San Bernardino. The building is very fine, and the situation superb. A pleasant walk or drive can be taken to La Moncloa, on the rt. of the road to the Escorial, which over- looks the bed of the Manzanares. It once belonged to the Alva family, but was purchased by Ferdinand VII., who removed to it the porce- lain manufactory after la China had been destroyed. An attempt is being- made to revive this manufactory, and it has been put in the hands of Senor Zuloaga, the well-known worker in metal; their first essays are satis- factory. The royal villa was given to the nation and turned into an agricul- tural school in 1869; the site and views from hence are lovely. The latest agricultural implements may be seen there, but the want of good management makes the farming any- thing but satisfactory. Permission must also be obtained from the Palace to visit El Pardo, a royal sitio or shooting-box, distant 6 m. on the Manzanares, built by Charles V., which was burnt March 33, 1604; then perished many magni- ficent portraits by Titian, A. Moro, Coello, &c. The present pile was repaired by F. de Mora for Philip III. ; it was added to by Charles III., as a shooting-box near his favourite preserve. The ride to it from Madrid is one of the pleasantest in the neigh- bourhood of the capital, passing through an avenue of trees about 1| m. in length. The covers extend to 45 m. in circumference, and are well planted with trees (principally Ilex), and full of game of all kinds. The royal apartments are commo- dious, and there is a small theatre in the building ; some of the ceilings painted in fresco are by Galvez and Ribera; the glass chandeliers are large and fine, and the tapestry, with rural and sporting subjects, is after designs of Goya and Teniers, and is interesting for costume. In the Retablo of the Oratory is a copy of the Christ bearing the Cross, by Ribalta, of which there is a replica at Magdalen College, Oxford. The Alameda is a pleasant villa erected on the road to Guadalajara by the late Duchess Countess of Bena- vente, at an enormous expense. The grounds are nicely laid out, well wooded and refreshing in the desert, but they are now neglected, and the house has been despoiled of all its artistic treasures. Permission to view from the head-steward of the Duke of Osuna. On a hill about 2 m. on the road to Toledo is Carabanchel (tramway from Madrid), or rather the Caraban- cheles, for the two villages closely adjoin each other, being distinguished by the epithets upper and lower, de arriba y de abajo. They offer to Madrid what Highgate and Hampstead do to London, and are visited by Castilian cockneys on holidays. Near the village is the seat of the late Countess Montijo (mother of the Em- press Eugenie), in the grounds of which is a fine Roman mosaic. Vista Alegre, so called from the cheerful view over the nakedness of 86 Route 8 . — Madrid to the Escorial. Sect. I. the land, belonged to Queen Christina, who here created a villa. She was so fond of the place, although born at beautiful Naples, that she took from it the title of Condesa de Vista Alegre. It now belongs to the Marquis of Sala- manca, who has rebuilt the house and laid out the gardens, and may be visited, permission being previously obtained, on Thursdays. A pleasant excursion may be made to Boadilla, 14 miles’ drive, to visit the Palace which formerly belonged to Godoy. The pictures it contains, many of which are by Goya, are well worth seeing, and the wood itself is beautiful. Excursions from Madrid. To Toledo, see Ete. 4, by direct rlv. 45 m. in 3 hrs. ; an excursion on no account to be omitted. To the Escorial, Ete. 3. To La Granja and Segovia, Ete. 3. To Alcala and Guadalajara, Ete. 149. To Aranjuez, Ete. 4a. EOUTE 3. MADRID TO THE ESCORIAL, LA GRANJA, AND SEGOVIA. The Bayonne Ely. (Ete. 1) carries you to the Escorial in 1 hr. 20 m. During the summer months cheap excursion-trains leave for the Escorial. The rly. passes through a desolate uninhabited country : the gloomy Es- corial is soon seen rising in dreary state in the far distance, above the solitary and savage outline of the Sierra de Guadarrama; in the dis- tance Galapagar may be seen, where the bodies of royalty rest the first night when on their way to their last home. On these solemn occasions a great officer of state comes in the morning to the coffin, to inquire if his or her Majesty will move on. Philip II. (says Brantome) was 6 days going to the Escorial to die, and in no great hurry to complete the journey. 31 J m. Escorial Stat. Pop. 705. From the rly. stat. to the village the omnibus may be taken (15 min., uphill ; 2 r. per person). Inns : La Miranda, dear and pretentious; La Eosa, inferior, but more reasonable. N.B. — It is not necessary to engage a cicerone. Each portion of the build- ing is shown by an mtelligent official, who will answer all inquiries. Hours for visiting : — Church and Pantheon from 10 to 12 morning , and 2 to 4 afternoon ; Palace from 1 to 2 p.m. El Eeal sitio de San Lorenzo el Eeal del Escorial is the correct title of the edifice. The latter name is derived by some from Escorise , the dross of iron-mines, which still exist here. Casiri (Bib. Arab. Es., i. 20, ii. 61) reads in the name the Arabic “ a place of rocks.” The Escorial is placed by some geographers in Old Castile, but the division of the provinces is carried on the crest of the Sierra, which rises behind it. The Escorial is now a shadow of the past, for the shell has lost its living monks, and those revenues whereby they lived. The enormous pile, exposed to the hurricane and mountain snows, was only to be kept in repair at a great outlay. In the five years after the sequestrations of convents more injury ensued than during the preceding two centuries. The rains penetrated through the da- maged roof, and damp, sad destroyer, crept into the untenanted chambers. The Octava Mara villa, the eighth mar- The Castiles. Route 3 . — The Escorial. 87 vel of the world, which cost some 10 millions, was perishing for the sake of a few hundreds, until Argiielles, in 1842, granted a pittance out of the queen’s privy purse, and stayed the immediate ruin. The convent was first stripped of much of its golden ornaments by the French in December 1808; they also did irreparable dam- age to the exterior, which Ferdinand VII. afterwards did what he could to repair.* In July 1837, when the Carlists, under Zariategui, advanced on Segovia, a hundred of the best pictures were removed to Madrid. The edifice was at once a temple, a palace, a treasury, a tomb-house, and a museum, and for these purposes was it reared by Philip II., el prudente , who is called by the monks “ the holy founder,” and by others el Escorial- ense. His object was to carry out the will of his father in constructing a royal burial-place, and at the same time to fulfil a vow made during the battle of St. Quentin, when he im- plored the aid of San Lorenzo, on whose day (August 10, 1557) it was fought. San Lorenzo was a native of Huesca. He was broiled by Valentianus, Aug. 12, 261, on a slow fire. The victory of St. Quentin, now claimed by the Spaniards for them- selves, was, in fact, won by Philibert of Savoy, ably seconded by D’Egmont, with Flemish infantry, German ca- * For the Escorial as it was, consult the ex- cellent ‘ Historia de la Orden rie San Geronymo,* by Jose de Sigilenza (its first prior, and an eye- witness of its building) ; 4 vols., Madrid, 1st and 2nd parts, 1590; 3rd part, 1605; 4th, by Fran- cisco de los Santos, 1680. Sigiienza also wrote the ‘Vida de San Geronimo,’ 4to., Mad. 1595; see also ‘ Further Observations,’ &c., James Wadsworth, London, 1630: ‘Descripcion . . . . del Escorial,’ Fra. de los Santos, fol. Mad. 1657 ; * La reali grandezze del Escuriale/ llario Maz- zorali de Cremona, 4to., Bologna, 1648; ‘ De- scripcion, ’ &c., Andres Ximenez, fol. Mad. 1764; and the interesting ‘ Hist, del B. Monasterio de San Lorenzo,’ by Jose Quevedo, 1 vol., Mad. 1 849. These works describe its splendid past condition before the fatal invasion. There is a set of accu- rate views by Thomas Lope Enguidanos, sold at the Madrid Imprenta real. Herrera published himself a list of his original plans and eleva- tions, * Sumaria de los Disenos/ a rare duo., Mad. 1589. The 13 prints were engraved at Antwerp : some of the original drawings are in the British IVIuseiun, valry, and 1000 English under Lord Pembroke. The French were com- pletely routed, and lost 3000 men, 4000 prisoners, with their colours, baggage, and artillery. Had Philip II. pressed on, he might have captured Paris as easily as the Duke did after Waterloo ; but in truth this colossal pile is the only benefit which Spain derived from that important victory. Philip, tired of war’s alarms, took to building, for which he was really fitted, being a man of taste and a true patron of artists. As he was of a shy- phlegmatic temperament, he, like Ti- berius, made the dedication of this temple his excuse to escape from the public city of Madrid : certus ab urbe procul degere (Tac. Ann. iv. 57). One of the fatal effects of the Escorial has been, that it tended to fix the Koyal residence at Madrid. The first stone was laid April 23, 1563, by Juan Bautista de Toledo, whose great pupil, Juan de Herrera, finished the pile, Sept. 13, 1584. Here, on the same day of the same month, in the year 1598, did Philip II. die,* having lived in his vast convent 14 years, half-king, half-monk, and boast- ing that from the foot of a mountain he governed the world, old and new, with two inches of paper. He loved the place because it was a creation of his own, and one congenial to his sombre temperament. The edifice disappoints at closer sight ; it has not the prestige of an- tiquity, the proportions of a pagan temple, or the religious sentiment of the Christian Gothic ; it has nothing in form or colour which is either royal, religious, or ancient, mediaeval or national. The clean granite, blue slates, and leaden roofs, look as if built yesterday for an overgrown com- monplace barrack or manufactory. The windows are too small, but, had they been planned in proportion to the enormous faqades, the rooms lighted by them would have been too lofty, and thus external appearance was sacrificed for internal accommodation : now these windows are spots which * See Motley’s * United Netherlands,* vol. iv. 88 Route 8 . — The JEscorial . Sect. I. cut up breadth and interfere with the sentiment of solidity. The redeeming qualities of the elevation are size, simplicity, and situation. It stands about 2700 feet above the level of the sea, and is part and parcel of the mountain out of which it has been constructed : it is so large that it looks grand even amid the mighty buttresses of nature, which form an appropriate frame to the severe picture. The ashy coloured pile looms like the palace of death, when iEolus sends forth his blasts of consumption, which descend from these peeled Sierras to sweep away human and vegetable life from the desert of Madrid. The edifice is a rectangular paral- lelogram, of some 744 feet from N. to S., and 580 from E. to W. ; but let us not measure it, for the sentiment of vastness is independent of actual size ; and all the line-and-rule, clerk-of-the- works details are to be found in Ma- doz, vii. 527. It is chiefly built in the Doric order. The interior is divided into courts, w 7 hich the vulgar have believed to represent the bars of the gridiron, in allusion to the martyrdom of St. Lorenzo. The story appears to have been the invention of a later date than its construction : this build- ing does not possess the required similitude, and almost every rectan- gular building in the world with an advanced portico or construction may be compared to a gridiron. The N. and W. sides, which front the village and mountains, have afiue paved Lonja or platform : to the E. and S. terraces look over formal hanging gardens and fishponds. The slopes below are well planted, especially la Herreria and la Fresneda : the elms were brought by Philip II. from England. The W. or grand fa$ade faces the Sierra, for the convent turns its back on Madrid. On the north Lonja is a subterranean gallery, 180 ft. long, 10 high, and 7 broad, tunnelled in 1770 by the monk Pontones, in order to afford a. com- munication with the village during the winter hurricanes : these storms, the guides say, once hoisted an ambas- sador, coach and all, in the air, to say nothing of the petticoats of monks and women blown up like balloons, and lords of the bedchamber by the score whirled round and round like dead leaves. The convent is not placed according “ to the cardinal points,” on account of the winds ; their violence is disarmed by its being set a little out of the square. The custodians know by rote all the proportions. They re- peat that the square of the building covers 500,000 feet ; that in the centre is the chapel, surmounted by a dome ; that there are 88 fountains, 15 cloisters, 86 staircases, 16 courtyards, and 3000 feet of painted fresco. The Convent is now turned to educational purposes. It is used as a seminary, where 180 youths receive a secular education. The Porteria, or porter’s hall, is on the N. fa 9 ade, but is seldom used : you proceed therefore to the W. fa- cade, and enter by a wicket-door in the large portal, overwdiich a San Lorenzo, 15 ft. high, is placed, and ivithin it (to the rt.) are hung up two jaw-bones of a whale, caught off Valencia in 1574_ The grand central Doric and Ionic portal was formerly opened only to admit royalty, either alive or dead ; the monarch, in the latter case, was borne in by 3 nobles and 3 priests. The first patio is called de los Reyes , from the statues of “ the Kings ” of Judah, connected with the Temple of Jerusalem. They are 17 feet high, and were all cut by Juan Bautista Monegro, out of one granite block, of which enough, so says the inscription, still remains to make up the dozen. The hands and heads are of marble, the crowns of gilt bronze, but the figures are lanky and without merit ; the least bad is that of Solomon. The court is 320 feet deep by 230 wide, and is too crowded, being all roof, and hav- ing no less than 275 windows ; again, the pediment over the entrance into the church is too high and heavy. This court was the last finished. On the south side is the library, and opposite the students’ college. Hence by a dark passage to the grand church , el Templo, which was begun in 1563 and completed in 1586 : obs. the ad- The Castiles. Houte 3 . — The Escorial: Church . 89 inirable construction of tlie flat roof, over which is the choir or coro alto , which, from not being placed in the body of the church, does not cut up its size nor conceal its grandeur. The in- terior of the chapel, as seen from under this sombre grotto -like arch, is the triumph of architecture : it takes away the breath of the beholder from its majestic simplicity. All is quiet, so- lemn, and unadorned ; no tinsel statues or tawdry gildings mar the perfect proportion of the chaste Christian temple ; the religious sentiment per- vades the whole of this house of God ; everything mean and trivial is for- gotten. The Church has 3 naves, 320 ft. long, 230 wide, and 320 high to the top of the cupola, but the secret of its gran- deur is in the conception and propor- tion. The black and white pavement is serious and decorous. Eight of the compartments of the vaulted roof are all painted in fresco (blue predomi- nating), by Luca Giordano. The Ke- tablo of the high altar is superb, and is reached by a flight of red-veined steps. The screen, 93 ft. high by 43 wide, employed the artist, Giacomo Trezzo, of Milan, 7 years, and it is composed of the 4 orders. The dividing columns are jasper, with bronze-gilt bases and capitals, and the roof is painted in poor fresco by Luca Cangiagi. The picture in the retablo , of the Adoration and Nativity, and San Lorenzo, by Pelegrino Ti- baldi, are very cold. The Saviour at the column and bearing the Cross, and the Assumption of the Virgin, are by Francesco Zuccaro. The bronze medallions, the holy rood, and 15 'gilt statues, are by Pompeio Leoni and his son. A wooden taber- nacle replaces that of a splendid gilt bronze, 6 ft. high, which, designed by Herrera - and executed by Trezzo,* was one of the finest works of art in Spain, or indeed in the world ; the older writers talk of it as a “ specimen of the altar ornaments of heaven.” * In 1578 he struck a fine medal of Herrera, and in 1588 another of Zuccaro, with this retablo for the reverse. This glorious work of art, which took so many years to be made, was de- stroyed in five minutes by the long- bearded pioneers of La Houssaye, who broke it, thinking that it was silver gilt, and, being disappointed, cast it away as worthless brass. On each side of the high altar are low chambers or oratories of black and sombre marble for the royal family, while above are placed bronze-gilt effigies, who kneel before the King of kings. Al lado del Evanqelio are Charles V., his wife Isabel, his daugh- ter Maria, and his sisters Eleonora and Maria. The epitaphs, which are well worth the student's attention, chal- lenge future kings to outdo him, and until then to cede the post of honour. Opposite kneel Philip II., Anna his fourth wife, mother of Philip III. ; Isabel his third wife ; and Maria his first, at whose side is her son Don Carlos. These statues are portraits, and the costume and heraldic deco- rations are very remarkable ; they are inlaid with marbles and precious stones. Philip II. died in a small chamber near the oratory, below his effigy. The minor altars are more than 40 in number; some of them, and the piers, are decorated with mag- nificent pictures by Juan Fernandez Navarette el Mudo, the Dumb (1526, 1579), but who spoke by his pencil with the bravura of Rubens, without his coarseness, and with a richness of colour often rivalling even Titian, but the light is bad. The pictures repre- sent full-length figures of saints and apostles, and among the finest are San Felipe, San Andres, and Santiago : observe the way the drapery is painted. San Juan and San Mateo are equal to Tintoretto; Santo Tomas, San Ber- nabe, are very grandiose. Others of the altars are by the Zuccaros, Luca Cangiagi, Alonso Sanchez, Luis de Carabajal, and Pelegrino Tibaldi. The Relicario is to the rt. of the high altar, in the transept. Philip II. was a relicomaniac ; accordingly all who wished to curry favour with him sent him specimens. Philip kept these 90 Route 3 . — The Escorial : Panteon, Sect. I. precious relics in 515 shrines of Cel- lini-like plate, some wrought by Juan d’Arfe; but La Houssaye took all the bullion, and left the relics on the floor. Then were stolen more than 100 sacred vessels of silver and gold, besides the gold and jewelled custodia, the silver female image called La Mecina, because given by the city of Mescina ; then disappeared the silver full-length statue of San Lorenzo, which weighed 4§ cwt., and held in its hand one of the real bars of his grid- iron, set in gold, which La Houssaye stripped off ; but he left the iron for the consolation of the monks. These objects were taken to Madrid in 14 carts : for details see Quevedo, ‘ De- scription del Escorial.’ Next descend into the Royal tomb, the Panteon. This family vault is placed under the high altar, in order that the celebrant, when he elevates the Host, may do so exactly above the dead. Philip II., although he built the Escorial as a tomb-house for his father, prepared nothing but a plain vault, which, like that of Frederick the Great at Potsdam, thus becomes at once impressive and instructive, from the moral which such a change in such a monarch must suggest. Philip III., his silly son, began the present gorgeous chamber, which Phi- lip IV. completed in 1654, moving in the royal bodies on the 17th of March. The entrance, with its gilt ornaments and variegated Spanish marbles, has nothing in common with the sepul- chral sentiment. Read the inscription over the portal, D. 0. M. Locus sacer , &c. ; it is the epitome of the history of the Escorial. Descending, obs. the portrait of the monk Nicolas, who remedied a land -spring which is heard trickling behind the masonry. Obs. the portal, and read the inscription, Natura occidit , &c. Descending again, and carefully, for the steps are polished and slippery, by a green and yellow coloured jasper-lined staircase, at the bottom is the Panteon, an octagon of 36 ft. in diameter by 38 ft. high. The materials are dark polished marbles and gilt bronze ; the Angels are by Antonio Ceroni of Milan; the tawdry chandelier is by Virgilio Franchi of Genoa ; the crucifix is by Pedro Tacca. There are 26 niches hollowed in the 8 sides, with black marble sarcophagi or urns, all exactly alike. The reign- ing sovereigns are placed on the rt. of the altar, and their consorts to the 1. The names of the deceased are written on each urn; the empty ones await future kings and queens. None are buried here save kings and queens regnant, and the mothers of kings; for etiquette and precedence in Spain have always hitherto survived the grave. The kings Philip Y. and Ferdinand YI. and their queens are not buried here. Philip IY., in 1654, opened the urna of Charles Y., whose body was found to be perfectly pre- served. After looking a while at the body of his great ancestor, he observed to Don Luis de Haro, u Don Luis, cuerpo honrado : ” the Premier replied, “Si Sehor, muy honrado” (Sigiienza, iv. 185). In 1869 the ministers of the revolution had the urna of Charles Y. opened, and the body was found to be well preserved. A painter who was present, Sr. Palmaroli, took a sketch of it — a photograph of which may be obtained at Laurent’s Carrera de San Geronimo, Madrid. Generally speaking, when the party of visitors is numerous, each carries a taper, which, by lighting up this chamber of death, injures its impres- siveness, and ill accords with the lesson which this finale of pomp and power ought to suggest. Ascending gladly from the Panteon to the sun and life again, at the first break or descanso in the staircase a door leads to what is called el Panteon de los Infantes, where the Infantes of Spain are buried. By the express desire of the Duke de Montpensier, his daughter, the unfortunate Queen Mercedes, was not buried in this Panteon. Her body is deposited in the third chapel at the gospel side of the altar of the church of the Escorial until the church now in con- struction near the palace is ready to receive it. Queen Isabella and her The Castiles. Boute 3 . — The Eseorial : Sacristia. 91 successors have spent very large sums on the tombs of the Spanish princes. This Panteon is commonly called el Pudridero, the putrefying place. Bermejo (p. 153) gives a list of the deceased, the shortness of whose lives is remarkable. Among them lies the body of the unfortunate Don Carlos,* son of Philip II., Isabel de Valois and Maria of Portugal, Don Juan of Austria (brought from Namur in 1579), the Duke of Vendome (natural son of Louis XIV.), &c. Next visit the ante sacristia, with fine Arabesque ceilings, and pass on to The Sacristia, a noble room 108 ft. long by 23 wide. The Arabesque ceil- ings are painted by Granello and Fa- bricio. Above the presses, in which the dresses of the clergy were stowed, once hung the Perla of Raphael, and some of the finest pictures in the world (26 in number), which were removed in 1827 to the Museo in Madrid. Obs. the fine mirrors in this room. At the S. end is the Retabio de la Santa Forma, so called because in it is kept the miraculous wafer which bled at Gorcum (Holland) in 1525, when trampled on by Zuinglian heretics. Rudolph II. of Germany gave it to Philip II., and this event is represented in a bas-relief. Charles II., in 1684, erected the gorgeous altar, which is inscribed, “ Eu magni operis miracu- lum, intra miraculum mundi, coeli miraculum conseeratum. ,, When the French soldiers entered the Eseorial, the monks hid the wafer in the cel- lar, so the spoilers, busy with empty- ing the casks, passed it by : Fer- dinand VII. restored it in great pomp, Oct. 28, 1814. The Forma is exhibited for adoration, or “ manifes - * All the stories of this prince’s love for his father’s wife, and his consequent murder, are fic- tions of poets. Kaumur has demonstrated that Carlos, weak from his birth in mind and body, was much injured by a fall, May 15 , 1562 . Subject to fits and fevers, he hated his father, and was at no pains to conceal it. He was very properly arrested, January 18 , 1568 ; but both he and the queen died natural deaths, and not the slightest love affair ever took place between them. Consult Cachard, ‘ Philippe II. et Don Carlos,’ tada ,” every Sept. 29 and Oct. 28, at 12 noon precisely, on which occasions the picture is lowered by cords below the floor, and the Forma is seen in its place. This painting (the masterpiece of Claudio Coello , the last of good Spa- nish painters) is a real relic, and re- presents the apotheosis of this wafer as it took place in this very sacristia. The heads are portraits, and have all the character of identity and indi- viduality. The Prior’s is that of Santos, the historian of the Eseorial. Charles II. is represented kneeling in the centre: behind him stand the Dukes of Medinaceli and Pastrana. The receding perspective painting of the priests, monks, courtiers, and dresses is admirable. Observe three fine figures of saints by El Greco (the San Francisco is splendid), and the Descent from the Cross by Ribera, over the entrance doorway. Behind the altar is the Camarin, erected in 1692 by Jose del Olmo and Francisco Rizzi. It is a gem of precious marbles, but La Houssaye carried off the lamps, the sacramental services, the splendid, viril sobredorado , the gift of Leopold II., and in short everything either of gold or silver, whether dis- playing the piety or the taste of the Catholic monarchs. Do not omit to see the splendid em- broideries by friars of the Eseorial in the sacristy. Now visit the cloisters or court- yards, and first the two large ones, the upper and under. The claustro prin- cipal bajo is a square of 212 feet each side. The walls are painted in raw fresco, with sprawling figures by L. Carabajal, Miguel Barroso, L. Cam- biaso, and P. Tibaldi : some are faded by exposure to the damp air, and others were defaced by the French soldiers ; that of the San Lorenzo en parrilla has been restored. Vast in size, me- diocre in drawing, very little mind ani- mates the mass, and we chiefly carry away the desire never to see them or their like again. The central Patio de los Evangelistas, a square of 176 ft., with its ponds and 92 Boute 3 . — The Escorted. Sect. I. formal box-fringed gardens, was so called from the statues of the Apostles, wrought by Juan Bautista Monegro. Hence we pass to rooms filled with pictures. The Salas de los Capitulos are three in number ; that called la Vicarial being to the rt., and el Prioral to the 1. The pictures they contain have been re-arranged in the following manner. Boom to the 1., el Prioral. — Titian: The Prayer on Mount Olivet. Bosch : Christ crowned with Thorns. Tin- toretto: Queen Esther before Assur (once belonging to our Charles I.). Titian : A Last Supper. Tintoretto : Magdalen. El Greco : An Allegory. Vander Weyden: Episodes from the Life of the Virgin. Flowers by Mario Mizzi (surnamed dei Fiori ). In the central saloon are indifferent portraits of Spanish kings, and two good paint- ings en grisaille of the Florentine school. Boom to the rt. — Verones: Annunciation. Velasquez : Jacob and his Children (very good). Ribera: Jacob, fine. Tintoretto : Christ wash- ing the feet of His Disciples, — a most poetical picture. El Mudo : Martyr- dom of Santiago. Tintoretto : Adora- tion of the Shepherds. Titian: St. J erome. The Iglesia vieja was used as a chapel while the templo was building. Here hung the Tobit of Kaphael. On each side of the altar are paintings by Titian , one an Ecce Homo, the other an Adoration of the Magi. Also obs. a large “ Martyrdom of San Lorenzo,” a Dolorosa, and Descent to the Sepulchre, by the same artist. The grand staircase, that feature in which modern architecture triumphs over the ancients, lies to the W. : it leads to an upper claustro , and was designed by Juan Bautista Castello (il Bergamasco). It is painted in fresco by L. Cangiagi, L. Giordano, and P. Pelegrino. Here is the Battle of St. Quentin, and the capture of the Con- stable Montgomery : while to the E. Philip II. is seen planning the Escorial with his architects. On the ceiling is la Gloria , painted in the short space of seven months by Giordano. It re- presents the apotheosis or ascending into heaven of San Lorenzo with saints and the blessed. All the heads are portraits. Obs. those of Charles V. and Philip II., and Charles II. and his wife and mother. The Upper Cloister contains a fine “St. Jerome,” a “Nativity and Ado- ration of Shepherds,” and a “ Christ appearing to His Mother after His Kesurrection,” by El Mudo ; and a series of paintings illustrative of the life and death of San Lorenzo, by Carducci. To the N.E. is the Aula de Moral (the “Hall of Morality”), where the monks formerly solved points of mo- rality and theology. Adjoining is theCamarin, once filled with cabinet pictures, now turned into a relicario. Obs. the portable altar used by Charles V., a beautiful little alabaster statue of St. J ohn the Bap- tist, an altar-cloth formerly belonging to St. Thomas A’Becket of Canter- bury, some curious instruments of torture, many MS. writings of Santa Teresa of Avila. The Celda Prioral, fitted up with good marqueterie, overlooks the fish- pools and lovely gardens. The 8 smaller cloisters or courts resemble one another. Passing to the Coro alto, the ceil- ings of the ante coros are painted by L. Giordano. Here are kept los Libros de Coro, 218 in number: several of these splendid choral books of gigantic parchment are illuminated by Andres de Leon. The choir looks down on the chapel. To the N. is the royal seat into which Philip II. glided with his brother monks, as his father and so many of his ancestors had done before him ; and here he was kneeling when he received the news — without changing a muscle of his face — of the victory of Lepanto over the infidels, of that Trafalgar of the age, which saved Europe. The dark rich stalls of the Coro are carved in the Corinthian order out of 93 The Castiles. 'Route 3 . — The seven sorts of wood ; obs. the huge fa- cistol , which nevertheless moves round with a light touch. The lateral fres- coes, by Romulo Cincinato, represent the Martyrdom of San Lorenzo, the tutelar of the convent, and illustrate the history of St. Jerome, the head of the order : the others are by L. Oam- biaso, and of no merit. The painter’s own portrait, with a sad expression, is the last to the left, towards the prior’s seat. The next, that of the architect Fr. Antonio de Villa Castin, is fine. Obs. the fine rock-crystal chandelier brought from Milan in the 17th centy. The grand organs are carved in Cuenca pine : behind the seat of the prior is the celebrated white marble Christ, which was given to Philip II. by the Grand Puke of Florence, and was brought from Barcelona on men’s shoulders; the anatomy is fine, but the expression of the face is ordinary, and the space between the nose and lips too great, which is destructive of classical beauty : it is inscribed “ Ben- ventus Zelinus , Civis Florent : fade- bat 1562,” and is described by him in his autobiography. The figure was originally quite naked, but Philip II. thereupon covered the loins with his handkerchief. A muslin scarf with tinsel spangles has been substituted. The Great Library is placed above the porch of the Patio de los Reyes : over the entrance is suspended the common excommunication by the pope of all who should steal the books, a brutum fulmen to which the invaders paid small attention. The arched room runs from N. to S., and is some 191 ft. long, 32 wide, and 36 high : the pavement is marble, and the book- cases were executed by Jose Flecha, from Doric designs by Herrera. There are ample tables of marble and por- phyry provided for the use of readers ; the ceilings are painted in fresco by Tibaldi, in colours too gaudy for the sober books. The other frescoes, by B. Carducho, treat on subjects ana- logous to the liberal sciences. First, Philosophy shows the globe to So- crates, and others ; below is the School of Athens ; then follows the Confusion Escorial : Great Library . of Tongues ; Nebuchadnezzar institut- ing the first Grammar School; Rhe- toric surrounded by Cicero, Demo- sthenes, and others. Further on we see Dialectics, Arithmetic, Music, Geo- metry, Astronomy, and Theology, with appropriate groups and attributes. On the walls hang portraits of Herrera, the architect of the Escorial, and of Arias Montano its librarian, and the still more striking one of their master, Philip II., when old ; it is full of identity j and individuality. Obs. also the speaking portrait of Charles V., in golden and steel armour; one also of the silly Philip III., and of the sillier Charles II. when a boy. The books have their edges, not backs, turned to the spectator, never having been made for vulgar use and reading, and having been thus originally arranged by Montano. The library in 1808, before the inva- sion, is said to have contained 30,000 printed and 4300 MS. volumes. Joseph removed them all to Madrid, but Fer- dinand VII. sent them back again, minus some 10,000 ; and among them the catalogue, which was most judi- ciously purloined. Thus what is lost will never be known, and will never be missed. The rarities usually shown are a fine Alcoran (the famous one taken at Lepanto was given away by a mistake , in the time of Charles III., to a Moorish envoy, and is now in Africa ; that shown for it is of a later date than the battle) ; a Revelation of St. John, which belonged to the Emperor Conrad, 1039, &c. The upper library, which is not public, contains codes, missals, and Arabic MSS., of which a catalogue was published by Miguel Casiri, a Syrian ; 4 Bibliotheca Arabico-Hispana Escurialensis ,’ folio, 2 vols., Mad., 1760- 70. This work, however, teems with inaccuracies. The present Arabic MSS. were obtained by accident : one Pedro de Lara, a captain of Philip III., cap- tured near Sallee a Moorish ship, con- taining 3000 volumes, the library of King Zidan, who offered 60,000 ducats for their ransom; but a civil war in Morocco intervening, Philip III. carted the volumes off to the Escorial : many were afterwards burnt by a casual fire. 94 Sect. I. Route 3 . — The Escorted : Boycd Palace . The grand kitchen of the Escorial deserves the gastronome’s inspection. This department was worthy of 200 monks. Now it is devoted to the use of the students who occupy the con- vent cells. In the medical dispensary (La Botica) was a fine Raphael-ware cistern, painted with the Judgment of Solomon, now at the “Museo de pin- turas ” at Madrid. The Colegio is not worth visiting, although there is a whispering gallery which amuses young folk, just like that under the Alhambra. From the kitchen to the Royal Palace the transition is easy. The state rooms are shown at 1 o’clock, when the Royal Family are absent. Here the Catholic kings, whose life was one dull routine, spent six weeks every year after leaving their summer quarter of San Ildefonso. The palace contains a series of rooms, covered with tapestry, the furniture of the end of the last century. The tapestry is remarkable ; most of it was made at Madrid from designs of Teniers and Goya, and there are also some specimens of Gobelin. Obs. in one of the rooms a splendid group, of Buen Retiro biscuit porcelain, representing Charles IY. and Maria Luisa hunt- ing. The most remarkable thing at the palace are four rooms, the walls of which are covered with the finest inlaid woodwork ; the gilt-bronze and steel fittings are worthy of attention. The ceilings are painted by Maella, and the tout ensemble highly decorative. It is said that these rooms cost 2S0,000Z. In the Sala de las Batallas, obs. the interesting fresco, painted on the wall in 1587, by Granello and Fabricio, of the battle of la Higueruela, where John II. and Alvaro de Luna defeated the Moors, 1431 : the costume is most curious: this fresco was copied for Philip II. from a chiaroscuro original, 150 ft. long, found in the Alcazar of Segovia. Between the windows are the battles of Pavia, St. Quentin, Le- panto, &c. : the ceilings are decorated with Arabesques. In a room adjoining, Ferdinand VII. was born, Oct. 14, 1784; and here, Oct. 29, 1807, he was nearly sacrificed by his own mother, and her minion Godoy ; Charles, his father, consenting to his own shame and to their crimes. The prince was arrested for high treason, when he, coward-like, be- trayed his advisers; this act, how- ever, instead of insuring his and their ruin, saved them all, for the dreaded name of Buonaparte was found mixed up in the secret correspondence, and the craven court hushed the matter up. In the Cuarto de los Infantes is a portrait of Philip II. by Pantoja, and a Virgin by Alonso Cano. In the Queen’s Oratory there is a picture of the Virgin, by Juan de Juanes. Visit now the humble apartments in which Philip II. lived, half a monk, as he reserved his magnificence for the temple ; and then descend into the small room in which he died, Sunday, Sept. 13, 1598, aged 72, having been carried there in order that his last glance might be directed to the altar and the statue of his father : his lingering end was terrific in body and mind. He lay long, like Job, on a dunghill of his own filth, consumed for 53 days, like Herod, by self-engendered vermin. The crucifix he held in his hand when he died was the same with which Charles V. had expired. He was haunted with doubts whether his bloody bigotry, the supposed merit of his life, was not after all a damning crime. His ambition over, a ray of common-sense taught him to fear that a Moloch prosecution breathed little of the true spirit of Christianity.* Before leaving the Escorial, walk along the pleasant Paseo de las Are- nitas to the Silla de Felipe II., distant about 1 J m. This is a rude seat formed of 2 or 3 flattened boulders, from whence Philip II. used to contemplate the progress of his buildings. Around grow oaks and deciduous ashes. The view, on a still summer’s eve, is pleasant. Visit also the parks and * For the fearful details of his death, see Sigiienza, pt. 3, pp. 668-685. Castiles. 'Route 3 . — La Granja. 95 plantations, which contrast agreeably with the desert beyond them. The Casita del Principe de abajo may next be visited. It is a miniature country house, too small to live in, yet too large to wear on a watch-chain ; it was built in 1772 by Juan de Villa- nueva for Charles IV. when prince , and like that at Aranjuez, is the plaything of a spoilt infant. It is expensively ornamented with marble marqueterie, gimcracks, Arabesques, and with por- traits of the ignoble-looking Spanish Bourbons. The cabinet pictures are second-rate; there are a Caracci and several Giordanos. Obs. the ceilings painted in the Pompeian style, which are the best of their kind in Spain. Obs. in one of the rooms a series of medallions of Buen Betiro porcelain in the Wedgwood style. The fine table, and small pictures by Albert Diirer, have been removed to the Koyal Palace at Madrid. The Casa del Principe de arriba, a paltry maisonnette, was built by the booby infant Don Gabriel. The gar- dens are pretty, and form with the neighbouring walks a favourite even- ing summer promenade ; for the Esco- rial is frequented by many who fly from the scorching summer heats of Madrid to its cooler groves, the differ- ence of temperature being very marked. Madrilenians place their families here, and come over on the Saturdays, re- turning on Monday. The ascent of the mountain behind the village is worth making — about J hr. Fine view of the plain of Madrid, and of the Guadarrama and Gredos Sierras. From the Escorial, the traveller may, if he likes, proceed by the noble road which winds over the Sierra Guadar- rama chain, amidst immemorial pines and firs, to La Granja. A carriage may be hired for the journey, but there is no actual service of diligences. The scenery is splendid, offering a jumble of mountain and rock, with glorious pines flinging their wild arms fantastically athwart the precipices. It was constructed at a reckless ex- pense for the personal convenience of the King, and joins the road from Villalba at Nava Cerrada. However, the most convenient way to reach La Granja is to start from Madrid by the morning train (see local time-tables), and travel by rail 38 kilometres to Villalba Stat. Places must be secured beforehand for the stage coaches, which accomplish the journey in 5 hrs. The road winds up to the Puerto of Nava Cerrada, cross- ing it between two great mountain masses, rising 8500 ft. above the sea. This road is sometimes impracticable during the winter months. The scenery is bleak and barren; it improves on reaching Nava Cerrada. On leaving the summit the road enters the great pine forest, and dives down a steep precipice, Las Siete Bevueltas. At its foot the village of Balsam is crossed, a short distance separating it from La Granja. 32 m. San Ildefonso (or La Granja). Inns: Fonda de Europa; good, but dear in the season. Fonda de Tomer a ; fair, open all the year. The difference of temperature be- tween La Granja and Madrid in August is as 68° to 93° Fahr. This cool castle in the air is, say the Castilians, a worthy chateau of the King of Spain : as he is the first and loftiest of all earthly sovereigns, so his abode soars nearest to heaven : the elevation of his residence at least cannot be doubted, as the palace is placed on the N . W. range of the Sierra, some 3840 feet above the level of the sea, and thus, in the same latitude as Naples, stands higher than the crater of Mount Vesuvius. The localities are truly alpine ; around on all sides are rocks, forests, and crystal streams, and above towers la Penalara, rising, according to some, above 8500 feet. While nature is truly Spanish, here art is entirely French; for the one-idead founder Philip V. could con- ceive no other excellence than that of Marly and Versailles. In reserve and bigotry this king was a Philip II., and his hypochondriac shyness drove him into retirement, wanting nothing but his mass-book and wife, and thus he became a puppet in her and her con- 96 Sect. X. Route 3.— fessor’s hands. He was no sooner fixed on the Spanish throne than he medi- tated its abdication, always harbouring, like Henry III. in Poland, a secret wish to return and reign in beloved France : it chanced that while hunting at Yalsain in 1720 he observed this granja , then a grange or farm-house of the Segovian monks of El Parral ; he bought the site of them, and here he died, July 9, 1746, and here he lies buried, for his hatred to all Austrian associations would not allow that his ashes should associate with theirs in the Panteon of the Escorial, a building which, in common with everything Spanish, he slighted. First visit the Colegiata, built from a design of Teodoro Artemans, or Arde- man, in the form of a Latin cross. On each side are the Royal pews or tribu- nas , enclosed with glass. The dome, pendentives, and ceilings are painted in fresco by those academical twins of commonplace, Bayeu and Maella : the white stucco is picked out with gild- ing; the retdblo is composed of fine jaspers with red pillars from Cabra. The altar was made at Naples by Soli- mena. The tabernacle is of rich lapis- lazuli. The Virgin has a right royal wardrobe; the grand relic is the Ba- culo of St. Isabel of Hungary, held by Christina, whilst giving birth to Isabel II. The founder is buried in a chapel which lies to the W. of the high altar, to which a door communicates, but it is usually entered by the Sacristy ; the tomb of Philip Y. and his wife Isa- bella Farnese, with medallions, and Fame, Charity, and other ornaments in vile taste, are the works of Messrs. Pitue and Dumandre. The palace, a thing of the foreigner, looks as if it had been moved by the slaves of the lamp from the bald levels of the Seine to a wild Spanish sierra : this theatrical French chateau is, in truth, the anti- thesis of the proud, gloomy Escorial, on which it turns its back. A portion of the old Granja is still preserved near the Fuente. A long line of railing, like that of the Carrousel at Paris, divides three sides of a square. The centre body with a dome is -La Granja . destined for the royal family, and the wings appropriated to their suites, guards, and offices. The facade fronts the garden, and is cheerful, although over - windowed and looking like a long Corinthian conservatory. The saloons above and below were once filled with paintings and antiques, among which were the marbles of Christina of Sweden, purchased for Spain by Camillo Rosconi. After having been long neglected, they were carted out to Madrid by Ferdinand VII., when he restored and refurnished the palace with his favourite modem trumpery. The royal apartments are light, airy, and agreeable, without being magnificent: in them strange events have taken place. Here, in Janu- ary 1724, Philip Y. abdicated the crown, which he resumed in the next August at the death of his son, having been urged to become once more a king, by his wife, who was very soon weary of private life. Here, in" 1783, Charles III. received the Count d’Ar- tois (Charles X.), when on his way to take Gibraltar, which he did not do. Here, August 18, 1796, the minion Godoy signed the famous and fatal treaty by which Spain was virtually handed over to revolutionised France. Here Ferdinand VII., Sept. 18, 1832, revoked the decree by which he had abolished the Salic law, and declared his daughter Isabel, born Oct. 10, 1830, to be heiress to the crown; an act which cursed his ill-fated country with civil wars and a disputed suc- cession. This self-same palace, as if by poeti- cal justice, became the theatre of an- other tragedy, by which Christina in her turn was deprived of her royal rights; here, Aug. 12, 1836, intimi- dated by rude soldiery, headed by one Garca, a sergeant, she was compelled to proclaim the Cadiz democratical constitution of 1812. The result, as might have been expected, was the downfall and exile of the queen regent and the restoration of things as they were. The gardens of the palace are among the finest in Spain. The grand walk The Castiles. 97 Route 3. — . in front, called the parterre (for every- thing here in name and style is French), looks over flowers, water, and mountains ; here the fruits of spring ripen in autumn : as everything is artificial, the cost was enormous, reaching to 45 million piastres, the precise sum in which Philip Y. died indebted.* To form these gardens, rocks were levelled and hollowed to admit pipes of fountains and roots of trees, whose soil was brought up from the plains. The earth requires to be constantly renewed, and even then the vegetation is dwarf-like. San Ildefonso after all is but an imi- tation on a smaller scale of the gardens of Versailles, but the fountains of this Spanish Versailles are far more real than their celebrated French original ; pure genuine water is their charm, which here is no turbid puddle forced up by waterworks, but a crystal dis- tillation, fresh from a mountain alem- bic. The Cascada Cenador is a grand falling sheet, which under the sun of Castile glitters like molten silver : it is supplied from a large pond or reservoir above, which, as at Aranjuez, is mo- destly termed el Marrf the ocean. A finely carved and gilt canopied Bucentaur is kept under a shed at this, great lake ; it evidently was a present from the Venetian Republic to some Spanish king. It is a good specimen of Italian work of the 17th cent., and may have been brought from Italy by Charles III. when he came to Spain. . Pisciculture has been tried with singular success at this reservoir, under the direction of a Frenchman, M. Wuits. The gardens, in which art rivals nature, are divided into the altos y bajos, high and low ; they are laid out in a formal styley being planted in avenues, with a labyrinth, and decked with marble vases and statuary. Their ornate and highly artificial * These debts his son Ferdinand VI. refused to P a y, fortified by the opinions of Spanish theo- logians, who countenanced the orthodoxy of repudiation ; thus, while those palaces in Spain which the Austrian kings began are unfurnished, those which their Bourbon successors raised are not paid for. f Mar is Celtic for a lake. [Spain; 1882.] La Granja . character contrasts with the wild hills, rocks, pines, and nature around. There are 26 fountains; the most admired are, los Banos de Diana, Fuente de las Ranas (frogs), la Carrera de Caballos, the two Cascadas, el Canastillo, los Vientos, la Andromeda, la Pomona, and el Neptuno, at which, says Mons. Bourgoing, genius presides, and where the egotist read Virgil and quoted “ Quos ego.” The Fama is the most famous, and shoots up water 130 feet high : the Banos is also much admired ; before it Philip V. is said to have stopped for a few minutes upon its completion, and to have exclaimed, “ It has cost me three millions, but for three minutes I have been amused ! ” The statues are in indifferent taste: the chief are those of Lucretia, Bacchus, Apollo, Daphne, America, Ceres, and Milon. The fountains play on Sundays in the summer months, on great festivals, and royal birth or saints’ days, when the traveller should visit this spot. Charles III. came every year to La Granja to fish and shoot; and as his second hobby was the forcing manu- factures, chiefly doubtless because one Thevart had formed similar ones at Versailles in 1688, he here set up la Calandria, a sort of factory to make linen, luckily now broken up, and la Fabrica de Cristales, where some excel- lent glass and fine mirrors were made. Excursions may be made to the nursery-gardens of Robledo and Col- menar, and to the Quita-Pesares, the Sans Souci of Queen Christina. Visit also Valsain (Val Sabin, the vale of Savins), distant 3 m. This, an ancient hunting-seat of the Crown, was in- habited by Philip V. during the building of La Granja : but now it is almost a ruin, having been left unre- paired since a fire. The trout in the Eresma are excellent. 3 m. further on is the small Palace of Rio Frio, begun by Isabel, widow of Philip V. It is a fine architectural shell, with a noble staircase and granite pillars. The boar and stag hunting in the royal preserves is first-rate, and is frequently enjoyed by the King and members of his court. 98 Sect. I. Route 3 . — Segovia . An excursion can also be made to the beautiful ruined monastery of El Paular, 6 m. from the opposite side of the Guadarrama by el Reventon, or “ the cleft,” a pass which crosses directly over the glorious ridge, with the grand Penalara rising to the rt. about 8500 feet high (when this route is snowed up, there is a circuitous one to the convent, which overlooks the pleasant valley of the trout-stream Lozoya). The once wealthy Carthu- sian convent of El Paular was raised by John I. to carry out a vow made by his father Henry II., while cam- paigning in France. The Capilla de los Reyes was built in 1390, by Rodrigo Alfonso, and the church in 1433-40, by a Segovian Moor named Abderah- man : since its suppression, the paint- ings by Carducho have been removed to the new Museo at Madrid. The exquisite retablo was wrought at Genoa, and of the same period was the silleria del coro, now at the Museo Arqueo- logico at Madrid. There is a fine sepulchre of one of the Frias family, and an outrageous Churrigueresque transparente erected in 1724. The ceilings were painted by the feeble Palomino. The convent is now con- verted into a glass manufactory.* Descending from La Granja into the plains, we soon reach, after an easy drive of 6 m., the ancient and striking city of Segovia. On the right is passed the fine house built by General Ser- rano; on the 1., in the distance, the park belonging to the King, Rio Frio, full of game of every description. La Burgalesa, in the Plaza de la Constitucion ; Cafe de la Plaza. Pop. 11,172. § 2. Historical Notice. The city, elevated 3000 ft. above the sea-level, is of Iberian name and origin, seca and sego being a common prefix. Segovia is the see of a bishop, suffra- gan to Valladolid. The long city, with its narrow irre- gular streets, stands on the rocky knoll which rises E. and W. in a val- ley, with the Alcazar perched on the W. point. It is girdled to the N. by the trout-stream Eresma, which is joined below the Alcazar by the clamo- rous rivulet Clamores ; the banks of these streams, wooded and pretty, con- trast with the bleak and barren hills. The strong town is encircled by very picturesque dilapidated old walls with round towers, built by Alfonso VI., which are seen to great advantage from the hill of the Calvario. The strange contrast between the high open ter- races of its palaces and the low, flat roofs of its mean hovels; the medley of half-finished or more than half- ruined buildings, the houses propped up here and there by beams across, render it a first-rate specimen of a Castilian city. It reminds the traveller of the decayed towns of Italy. Its Gothic cathedral is one of the most interesting in Spain, and the number of unaltered Romanesque apses of Segovia constitute one of the chief glories of the town. SEGOVIA. Index. Page 9 1. Hotels, Lodgings, Cafe .¥ . ... 98 $ 2. Historical Notice . . . ... 98 5 3. Aqueduct . . , . . ... 98 $ 4. Cathedral . . .100 $ 5. Alcazar . . .101 $ 6. Mint; Churches; Museum . . .102 § 1. Hotels, Lodgings, Cafe. Inns : Fonda del Aguila, rough ; Posada Nueva ; Casa de Huespedes ; * For what it was in former times, see Fonz, x. 69. § 3. Aqueduct. According to Colmenares, Tubal first peopled Spain, then Hercules founded Segovia t in due time Hispan erected el Puente, the bridge — as they call the aqueduct — which the city now bears on its shield, with the head of one of Pompey’s sons looking over it. This Roman work, from its resemblance to the masonry of Alcantara and Merida, was probably erected by Trajan ; but neither Segovia nor its aqueduct is mentioned by the ancients, with whom The Castiles. 99 Route 3 .— The Aqueduct such mighty works seem to have been things of course. The steep-banked rivers below the town being difficult of access, and their waters not very wholesome, the pure stream of the Rio Frio was thus brought from the Sierra Fonfria, distant 9 or 10 m. The aqueduct begins near San Gabriel, and makes many bends in its progress, to give stability and to break the water current. It runs 216 ft. to the first angle, then 462 ft. to the second at La Concepcion, then 925 ft. to the third at San Francisco, and then 937 ft. to the city wall. Some portions are compa- ratively modern, although they are so admirably repaired that it is not easy to distinguish the new work from the old. They occur chiefly near the angles of La Concepcion and San Francisco. This aqueduct, respected by the Goths, was broken down in 1071 by the Moors of Toledo, who sacked Segovia, and destroyed 35 out of the 320 arches of which it is composed. It remained in ruin until Aug. 26, 1483, when Isabel employed in its repairs a monk of the Parral convent, one Juan Escovedo, who had the good taste to imitate the model before him, and therefore was the first to restore the Grseco-Roman style in Spain. When he went to Seville to report the completion of the repairs, Isabel gave him for his fee all the wood- work of the scaffoldings.* The aqueduct commences with single arches, which rise higher as the dip of the ground deepens ; the upper tiers are uniform of the line, until they become double. Those of the three central are the loftiest, being 102 ft. high. This noble work is cohstructed of gra- nite without cement or mortar, Cyclo- pean fashion, like the Pont du Gard and other similar erections of the Romans, and unites simplicity, pro- portion, solidity, and utility. An in- scription formerly ran between the tiers of the central arches. The niche * This architect (the son of a mere carpenter) was born in the Asturias about 1447. He also built the bridges over the Rio Erasma. See, for curious particulars, ‘ Historia de la Orden de San Geronymo,’ Jose de Siguenza, iv. 40. above, which is supposed to have held a statue of Trajan, is now filled with a decayed image of a saint. Accord- ing to some antiquarians the aqueduct was built by one Licinius , but the un- learned people call it el Puente del Diablo, “the devil’s bridge,'’ because his Satanic majesty was in love with a Segoviana , and offered to do anything she might require of him in return for her favours ,* she, tired of going up and down hill to fetch water, promised to consent, provided he would build an aqueduct in one night, which he did. One stone, however, having been found wanting, the Church decided the con- tract to be void and the maiden free from her promise, and so the hard- working Wicked One was done. The aqueduct forms, as it were, a triumphal arch and gate of the city, as the traveller drives under it at the end of his journey from La Granja. It may be well seen from San Juan, in all its beautiful perspective, over- topping the pigmy town. The grandest point, however, is from the corner of the Call© de G-ascos. A plan was pro- posed in 1803 to Charles IV. to open the whole of the Plaza de Azoguejo ( zog , zoq,soco , from the Arabic Sul;, a place), and thus to have made a grand square with the aqueduct on one side exposed in all its unveiled majesty. The French invasion marred this scheme of ques- tionable artificial amelioration, for the very irregularity and meanness of the buildings around render the aqueduct the emphatic feature, as it soars larger and nobler by the force of contrast. Older than the aqueduct is a rude statue of Hercules, which is imbedded in the staircase wall of a tower in Santo Domingo el Real. In this tower some curious old frescoes with Arabic in- scriptions were discovered, much in the style of the painting in the Al- hambra. This convent, once called la Casa de Hercules, was given to the nuns in 1513. The antique has been whitewashed, and is now despised. Nothing more is known of its origin, than of two of the Toros de Guisando breed which remained exposed to street injury. The larger was called el Mar - h 2 100 Route 3. — Segovia : the Cathedral. Sect. I, A. Capilla Mayor. B. Coro. C, C. Transepts. D. Nave. E, E. Aisles. F. Lantern. G. Sacristy. H. Domed Chapel. I. Sacristies, &c. K. Cloister. L. Steeple. Plan of the Cathedral of Segovia. rano dePiedra, the smaller la Marrana or sow, the sex being assumed.* § 4. Cathedkal. Next visit the Cathedral, a noble florid Gothic pile,f built of beautiful warm-coloured stone, which is seen to great advantage from the old irregular plaza. It deserves great attention. Like our Bath church of 1522, it was the last of the pure Gothic cathedrals : that style died like a dolphin, setting * The word Mar rano signified excommuni- cated , possibly from the old Maranatba (ana- thema), and, as it was first used against the Jews, it at last became synonymous with the pig. f See Street’s ‘ Gothic Arch, of Spain.’ as a southern sun in all its glories, without twilight or decrepitude; the square tower, crowned with a cupola, rises 330 ft. high, having been lowered 22 ft. from fears of lightning. The other cathedral was almost destroyed by the reformers (or Comuneros) in May 1520, who commenced business by pulling down churches, hanging the authorities, plundering the rich, and burning houses for the public good. A few relics were saved in the Alcazar, which stood out against the mob. The new building was begun in 1525 by Juan Gil de Ontanon and his son Bodrigo Gil, after the designs of their beautiful cathedral at Sala- The Castiles. Boute 3 . — The Alcazar. 101 manca; the colour of the stone is deli- cious. The \Y. front of the exterior is perhaps somewhat bald and orna- mented, while the E. end is over- crocketed, and the pinnacles small : the interior, however, is light and very striking from the bold and well- arranged designs of the arches and the richness and elaborateness of the vaulting : most of the windows are tilled with stained glass of fine colours. Look at the silver custodici and church plate, and at a chalice wrought in the D’Arphe style, given by a Duque de Albuquerque. The high altar is en- closed by lofty iron railings relieved by gilding, somewhat after the exqui- site parcloses of the Certosa of Pavia. The great retablo , composed of pre- cious marbles, was put up for Charles III. by Lieut.-General Sabatini. The trascoro is enriched with the salmon- coloured marbles of which the beauti- ful diamond-formed pavement is partly composed. The ancient sepulchral tombs were carted out and lumbered up near the entrance. Among them was an effigy of Rodrigo Gil, ob. 1577. Near the gate of the tutelar San Frutos, in the Capilla de la Piedad, is a magnificent retablo by Juan de Juni, designed in 1571. In this Deposition from the Cross the figures are larger than life, and the sentiment of the pro- found grief of the Virgin, is admirably rendered. The once fine St. Thomas, by Alonso Sanchez Coello, 1578, was repainted in 1845 by one Mariano Quintapanilla. The cheerful Gothic cloisters be- longed to the former cathedral ; they were taken down and put up again by Juan Campero in 1524, a triumph of art. Among the sepulchres obs. that of Diego de Covarrubias, ob. 1576. The fine prelate, with closed eyes and clasped hands, is arrayed in pontificalibus. Remark also the tomb of the Infante Don Pedro, son of En- rique II. He was let fall from the window of the Alcazar in 1366 by his nurse. Here also lies the beautiful but frail Maria del Salto, Jewess by creed, but Christian in heart ; she was about to be cast from a rock for adul- tery, when she invoked the Virgin, who visibly appeared and let her down gently. She was then baptized Maria del Salto , of the Leap , became a saint, and died in 1237. Ascend the tower of the cathedral for the superb panoramic views of the city, and its gardens and convents, its gigantic aqueduct, and the fine moun- tain distances. § 5. Alcazar. The Alcazar, now a mere shell, in which Gil Bias was confined, rises like the prow of Segovia over the waters- meet below. T he position and views are magnificent. The great keep is studded with those bartizans or turrets at the angles which are so common in Casti- lian castles. The building was originally Moorish, and was magnificently repaired in 1352 -58 by Enrique IV., who resided and kept his treasures in it. At his death the governor Andres de Cabrera, husband of Beatriz de Bobadilla, the early friend of Isabella, held the for- tress and money for her, and thereby much contributed to her accession to the throne. From this Alcazar, Dec. 13, 1474, she proceeded in state and was proclaimed Queen of Castile. In 1476 the Segovian mob rose against this Cabrera, when the Queen rode out among them alone, like our Richard II. from the Tower, and at once awed the Jack Cades by her presence of mind and maj esty. Chari es V., pleased with the Alcazar’s resistance to the Gomuneros in 1520, kept it up, and his son Philip II. redecorated the saloons. The tower was converted into a state prison by Philip V., who confined in it the Dutch charlatan Ripperda, who had risen from nothing to be premier. The Alcazar was ceded to the Crown in 1764 by the hereditary Alcaide, the Conde de Chinchon, whose ancestor had so hospitably welcomed in it our Charles I. He lodged there Wednes- day, 13th Sept., 1623, and supped, says the record, on “ certaine trouts of extraordinary greatnesse.” The castle palace was used as an artillery college, and was almost entirely destroyed by fire on the 7th of March, 1862, The g§- 102 Sect. I. Route 3. — Segovia: the Mint ; the Par ml. neral character was Mudejar : the ceil- ings, cornices, and friezes were splen- didly gilt, especially those in the Sala del Trono and Sala del Recibimiento : the inscriptions in one room gave the names of many kings and queens from Catalina, 1412, down to Philip II., 1592, whose shield quarters the arms of England in right of his wife, our Mary. Obs. the window of what was the Sala de los Reyes, from which the infante was let fall by a lady of the court of Henry III. in 1366 — the lady herself being* afterwards decapitated for her carelessness. In one of the now gutted rooms (the Pieza del Cordon) Alonso el Sabio ventured to doubt the sun’s moving round the earth : there- upon his astronomical studies were in- terrupted by a flash of lightning, in memorial of which, and as a warning for the future, the rope of St. Francis was modelled and put up. The king wore the original as a penance.* In Dec. 1881, orders were issued by the Minister of Public Works for the conservation and restoration of the Alcazar, and what remains of this interesting building will at any rate escape destruction. Descending next to the Eresma by Puerta Castellana, look up at the quaint Alcazar from the Fuencisla, near the Clamores, now doubly clamorous from chattering washerwomen, the Naiads of the rustling stream. The cliff above Fuencisla, Fons stil- lans, is called La Pena grajera , be- cause the crows nestled there used to peck the bodies of criminals cast down from this Tarpeian rock. The cypress opposite the Carmelitas descalzas marks the spot where Maria del Salto lighted unhurt ; and in the chapel is the identical image of the Virgin which saved her. This image was miraculously concealed during the time the Moors possessed Segovia, but reappeared on this site when the Christians recovered the town, and thereupon the convent was built and * Full details will be found in the tract of Alonso de Kibadeneyra, pp. 1 to 30, richly endowed.* See the pictures in the retablo , by Francisco Camilo. § 6. Mint ; Churches ; Museum. Now turn to the 1. up the valley of the Eresma to the Casa de Moneda (Mint), which was founded by Alonso VII. ; it was rebuilt by Enrique IV. in 1455, and repaired and fitted with German machinery by Philip II. in 1586. Formerly all the national coinage was struck here, as the river afforded water-power, while the strong adjoining Alcazar formed a safe trea- sury: in 1730 the gold and silver coinage was transferred to Madrid, and the copper coinage has been since removed to Barcelona. Adjoining on a slope is la VeraCruz, a most interesting Romanesque church, built in 1204 by the Templars, but going to ruin. Notice the zigzag and billet posterns at the W. doorway. Its nave is 12-sided— in the centre is a walled chamber of two storeys, built on the model of the Holy Sepulchre. An inscription on the S. entrance marks the ides of April, HSra 1246. Higher up is the Parra!, a once wealthy Jeronomite convent, which nestles under a barren rock amid vines and gardens ; hence its name and the proverb, “ Las huertas del Larval , 'pa- raiso terrenal .” It was built in 1494, by Juan Gallego. The portal is most beautifully carved"; the superb coro was raised in 1494 by J uan de Ruesga ; the walnut silleria was elaborately carved in 1526, by Bartolome Fernan- dez ; the retablo mayor was painted in 1526, by Diego de Urbina, for the Pa- checo family, one of whom, Juan, the celebrated Marques de Villena, founded this convent on the site of his famous duel where, asi cuenta la historia , he defeated three antagonists. The once superb white marble sepulchres of Juan and his wife Maria, kneeling with an attendant, have been barbarously treated. The ceilings of the library * For this tutelar Virgin, consult the ‘ His- toria y Origen,’ by F. Fro. de Sn. Marcos, 4to. Mad. 1692, The Castiles. 108 Boute 3 . — Ch and refectory are worth notice. The tower was raised 29 ft. in 1529, by Juan Campero. In 1848 pigs were kept in the chapels. The Santa Cruz, or Dominican con- vent, was founded by Ferdinand and Isabella, as the tanto manta motto indicates; the reja and retablo were given in 1557, by Philip II. The church of Corpus Christi, in the Calle Real, ought to be visited ; it is a beautiful specimen of an ancient Jewish synagogue, and is decorated in a similar style to Sta. Maria la Blanca at Toledo. In San Juan are the tombs of many of the Segovian Conquistador es of Madrid; e. g. Diez Sanz, Fenian Garcia, &c. Here also lies the his- torian of Segovia, Colmenares, ob. J an. 29, 1651. San Milan is the finest church at Segovia ; it is outside the walls, and is built in pure Romanesque, with external cloisters, date about 1250. (For further details consult Street’s ‘ Gothic Architecture in Spain/) The portal of San Martin is very remarkable ; obs. the tombs of Don Rodrigo in armour, and of Gonzalo Herrera and of his wife: the architect may look at a pretty ajimez window in the Casa de Segovia. At the bishop’s palace, notice the granite front and figures of Hercules: obs. also the tower in the Plaza de San Esteban, a noble 13th-centy. tower of five storeys of elegant arcades, round arches alter- nating with pointed, and open corredor or cloister, outside the church in which Juan Sanchez de Zuazo is buried. The Puerta de Santiago, leading from the Castle to the Alameda, is Moorish ; the granite portals and peculiar Toledan ball ornaments prevail in Segovia ; the gate of San Andres is quite a picture. Visit the Casa de los Picos, with a facade lined with square projecting stones cut diamond shape, an undeni- able Tuscan arch, and a marble settee running along the basement ; an ex- cellent copy of a Florentine palace of the Middle Ages. The Museo Provincial is placed in the episcopal palace opposite San Esteban (look at its noble tower) : it contains ir dies ; Museum. mere rubbish, consisting principally of bad and damaged portraits of monks and nuns, with representations of their legends and miracles : some of the Latin couplets under the portraits af- ford ludicrous specimens of monkish invention, style, and prosody. Segovia, however, is itself a museum to the anti- quarian ecclesiologist. The city’s prosperity once depended on its staple, wool, but now only a few poor cloth manufactories languish in the suburb of San Lorenzo. In 1829 some improved machinery was introduced, which the hand-loom weavers de- stroyed. The Cabanas , or sheep-flocks of Segovia, furnished the fleeces, and the Eresma offered a peculiar water for washing the wool. The sheep-washings and shearings were formerly the grand attractions of the place ; the vast flocks of the monks of the Escorial, el Paular, and other proprietors, were driven in May into large Esquileos, or quadran- gles of two storeys, over which a “ Fac- tor * ’ presided. First, the sheep went into the Sudadero , and, when well sweated, had their legs tied by Liga- dores, who handed them over to the shearers, each of whom could clip from 8 to 10 sheep a day. When shorn, the animals next were taken to the Em- pegadero, to be tarred and branded ; after which the whole lot were looked over by the Capatazes , or head shep- herds, when the old and useless were selected for the butcher ; those spared were carefully attended to, as being liable to take cold after the shearing, and die. From Segovia the traveller can re- turn by diligence (daily) or by private conveyance to Villalbastat. (in 5 hrs.), and thence by rlv. (in 1 hr. 20 m.) to the capital (see Rte. 1). Railway projected to Medina del Campo and Villalba stat. ROUTE 4. MADRID TO TOLEDO. RAIL. 2 trains daily ; 45 m. in 3 hrs. This is the shortest and most con- venient way of visiting Toledo by the 104 Jdoute 4. — Toledo : Hotels , dc. direct line; from S. Ely. station at the Paseo de las Delicias. Cabs charge 6 rs. fare to this station. The country which is passed is thoroughly uninteresting. The line runs due S. Trains slow. 7f m. Getafe Stat. Pop. 3498 (see Rte. 123). 4J m. Parla Stat. Pop. 1077. 3f m. Torrejon Stat. Pop. 1971. 6f m. Yeles y Esquivias Stat. Pop. 95. 7 m. Pantoja y Alameda Stat. Pop. 436. 8 m. Algodor Stat. The Tagus is crossed and the Ely. skirts its 1. bank to 8J m. Toledo Stat. Terminus. Om- nibus into the city 2 rs. ; with luggage, 3 rs., crossing the bridge. TOLEDO. $ 1. Hotels ; Lodgings ; Cafe . . . 104 0 2. Bull-ring ; Theatre ; Shops . . 104 $ 3. Historical Notice 104 $ 4. Walk round the Town ; Gates ; Pro- menades 106 $ 5. Hospital of Tavera ; Roman Circus; Cristo de la Vega ; Palace Castle ; Baths of La Cava 107 $ 6. San Juan de los Reyes ; Museum . 108 $ 7. Synagogues — Santa Maria la Blanca; El Transito .... 109 $ 8. Santo Tome 109 ‘ $ 9. Bridges and Walk on S. side of Tagus 110 $ 10. Alcazar 112 9 11. Cathedral 112 $ 12. Archbishop’s Palace and Town-hall 120 l, $13. Hospital of Santa Cruz .... 121 $ 14. Moorish Mosque; Cristo de la Luz 121 $ 15. Convents and Churches . . . . 121 $ 16. Old Houses 122 $ 17. Sword Manufactory 122 $ 18. Excursions 123 § 1. Hotels ; Lodgings ; Cafe. Inns: Fonda Imperial, Cuesta del Alcazar ; fair. Fonda de Lino, indif- ferent and dear; here an intelligent guide may be found, Mariano Portales. Casa de Huespedes, kept by the Hermanas Figueroa, Santa Isabel, No. 16, clean, good, and moderate ; by far the best quarters, within a few yards of the W. front of the Cathedral. 1 Sect. I. | Casa de Huespedes de Lazaro , Calle I Nueva, from 20 to 24 reals per day. At the Despaclio Central, in the Calle del Comercio, a carriage may be procured for 40 reals for one or four persons, which will enable travellers to visit the different churches and sword manufactory with comfort ; but wheel traffic is impossible in some of the streets. An arrangement must be made for a longer excursion. Luis Vazquez is strongly recommended : he owns the omnibus that goes to the stat. Cafe : de Dos Hermanos ; Cafe Im- perial ; Cafe Suizo, at Zocodover. § 2. Bull-ring ; Theatre ; Shops. Plaza de Toros, outside the Puerta de Visagra : places for 9000 spectators ; tights during August and September. Theatre : Plaza del Mercado. BoohseUer : Fando, Calle Ancha, where the excellent Guide-book, ‘Toledo en la mano,’ may be pur- chased. Photographer : Casiano Alguacil, in Cuatro Calles. Cutler : Garridos Hermanos, 1 Calle del Barco Nuevo, opposite Sta. Maria la Blanca. Dealers: Claudio Vegue, plateria, Calle Ancha ; Patricio Herencia, Calle Ancha. § 3. Historical Notice. Imperial Toledo, the navel of the Peninsular, “ the crown of Spain, the light of the whole world, free from the time of the mighty Goths ” (as its son Padilla addressed it), is decidedly the most interesting spot in all Spain to the stranger. It is a city of the past. Its former population of 200,000 souls has dwindled down to 20,251. Toledo is the capital of the Pro- vince of Toledo, whose hilly portions, la Sierra or los Montes de Toledo, divide the basins of the Tagus and Guadiana. Seen from afar, the view of the city is most imposing. This Durham of a once golden hierarchy offers a per- fect contrast with Madrid, the modern capital, for here everything is solid, venerable, and antique. It has not been run up by academicians to please the To face p. Route 4 . — Toledo : Hotels, &c. 104 Route 4 . — Historical Notice . 105 The Caatiles. hurry* of a king's caprice, but is built like a rock, and on a rock. Like Lome, it stands on seven hills, and is about 2400 feet above the level of the sea. The lordly Tagus, boiling through the rent or Tajo of the granite moun- tain, girdles it around, just leaving one approach by the land side, which is defended by Moorish towers and walls. Inside the city, the streets, or rather wynds, are irregular, ill-paved, steep, and tortuous ; but such intentional in- tricacy and narrowness rendered them easy to defend when attacked, and kept them cool in summer, however unpopular to travellers not in search of the picturesque. The houses are massive and Moorish-like, for the city was 350 years under their enlightened dominion. Each family lives in its own secluded castle, and not in flats or apart- ments as in Madrid. Here again we find the oriental patio, over which awnings are drawn in summer, as at Seville. Their areas are kept very neat, the rain- water being collected from them for domestic uses. Toledo, although long deficient in water, has always been a clean town; not, however, very healthy, the length of life averaging about 50 years. The climate is not agreeable ; cold in winter and hot in summer, the hills reflecting back the sun’s rays ; but the river meadows are pleasant, and the Tagus is indeed a river, and not a dry ditch like th^ Manzanares. The Toledans, like their houses, are solid, and trustworthy old Castilians, sober and muy liombres de bien. Here the glorious Castellano is spoken in all its purity of grammar and pronun- ciation, which is slow and guttural. To speak en proprio Toledano, has since the time of Cervantes been equiva- lent to the best “ Spanish ” (‘ Viag . al Parni vi. 253). In the heart of the city towers the Cathedral, around which cluster multi- tudinous churches and convents, many now silent as tombs. Even Salamanca, a city of learning, was scarcely more hardly treated by the invaders — Victor and Soult especially — than was Toledo, the see of the primate. What the foreign foe began the domestic reformer completed, as, by the appropriation of ecclesiastical revenues, the means were taken away by which this priestly capital, this Levite theocratic city, ex- isted ; they are only partly restored, the die is cast, and Toledo will decay and become a Thebes, in which the untenanted temples alone will remain. Formerly it contained, besides the cathedral, 110 churches, including 11 sanctuaries inside and outside the town. 59 remain; — viz. 2 Mozarabic churches, 9 Latin churches with their 12 assistant parishes, 15 nunneries and 21 chapels. Most of the churches which have been closed are in ruins. Of the 34 hospitals which formerly existed 4 only are left. Besides the university 4 colleges existed. The Boman ritual is used in the two Mozarabic churches, except on the anniversary of the patron saint to whom the churches are dedicated. Let no mere man of money or pleasure visit this gloomy, silent, and inert city, this ghost of a departed capital, which is without trade or manufactures ; but to the painter, poet, and antiquarian, this widowed capital of two dynasties is truly interesting. Here the voice of the Goth echoes amid Roman ruins, and the step of the Christian treads on the heel of the Moor ; here are places without nobles, churches without congregation, walks without people ; the narrowness of the streets, by preventing carriage traffic, adds to that silence so peculiar to the ancient cities of Spain, and which at once, as Cervantes said (Don Quijote, ii. 19), strikes the ear of the stranger. Toledo, when taken by Marius Eul- vius, u.c. 561, 193 b.c., was “urbs parva sed loco nranita ” (Livy, xxxv. 22). The name has been derived from Toledoth , the Hebrew “ city of genera- tions,” as having been their place of refuge when J erusalem was taken by Nebuchadnezzar. No doubt many Jews did fly to “Tarshish,” to the “ ut- termost parts of the earth,” in order to escape the calamities in Palestine : and certainly when Toledo was first taken by the Moors it was filled with He- brews, who, resenting the G othic per- secution, facilitated the progress of the Berbers, who themselves were half J ews and half Pagans. 106 Sect. I. Route 4.— Toledo : Walk; Gales . Conde interprets Toledo as from the Arabic attalah , a place of look-out, and to this day the Alcazar, now under- going a series of repairs, towers nobly over the city, its beacon and sentinel. Leovigildo, under whom the Gothic monarchy was consolidated, removed his court from Seville, and made Toledo the capital of Spain. His suc- cessor, Becaredo, brought the Peninsula entirely into the Christian fold, and hence here were held so many of those important councils, the records of which give such insight into the spirit and condition of that age ; they in reality were convocations and parliaments, as the sacerdotal aristocracy united social and civil supremacy. The Goths, who have been so frequently stigmatised as destructive barbarians, repaired and improved the city bridges, and Eoman walls ; portions of their works yet exist, for Toledo was one of the few towns exempted from the decree of Witiza, by which so many others were simultaneously dismantled. Wamba was the benefactor of To- ledo, as is recorded in the inscription over the great gate, “ Erexit fautore Deo rex inclytus urbem, Wamba.” This was indeed a “long time ago,” for Wamba is the Japetus of Spain, and the phrase en el tiempo del Bey Wamba proverbially denotes a date beyond legal memory, “ as old as the hills.” Wamba was half poisoned in 687 by Ervigius, and, when supposed to be dead, was clad as usual in a monk’s dress for burial ; and therefore, when he recovered, was compelled to con- tinue the cowl, which, once put on, can never be taken off. The quarrels between the usurper and rightful heirs weakened the Gothic government, and enabled the Moors, in 714, to subdue the divided kingdom ; so afterwards, in 1492, the dissensions of the Moslems paved the way to their final defeat by Ferdinand and Isabella. The Jews of Toledo, when their Moorish friends seized their money, turned to the avenging Christian, and facilitated the conquest of the city, in 1085, by Alonso VI., who thereupon took the title of Emperor of Toledo ; he gave “ himself seated on an imperial throne” for the armorial bearing on its shield, naming the Cid as its first Alcaide. Toledo, honoured by the sovereign and made the primacy of a rich clergy, was always loyal ; thus, when Burgos dis- puted its new precedence in Cortes, Alonso XI. exclaimed, “Let Burgos speak first ; I will speak for Toledo, which will do what I wish.” § 4, Walk round the Town ; Gates ; Promenades. First walk round the N. or land side of this most picturesque old city, beginning at the north-eastern land approach ; descend to the Puerta del Sol, a rich Moorish gate of granite horseshoe arches, lately restored, with upper intersecting ones of red brick, and follow the old road which winds down by the church of San- tiago ; obs. its picturesque court- yard, portico, and absis ; thence pass on to the Puerta Visagra. The old gate, which bore this name, will be found a little lower down, to the left ; it is nowhlockedup, and therefore called Puerta Lodada. The name Visagra, said by some to b eVia Sacra , the road by which Alonso entered in triumph, is simply Bib Sahra, Arabice “ gate of the country;” and the rich cereal and pastoral district between Illescas and Aranjuez is still called La Sagra , Arabice “ the open country, the sup- port.” With regard to the walls, there are two circumvallations : the inner, built by Wamba, runs up from the bridge of Alcantara under the Alcazar, by the gate of Doee Cantos, to the back of the Carmen calzado, to the bridge, to the gates of Santa Cruz and Cam- hron, and thence to the bridge of San Martin ; the outer line, built in 1109 by Alonso VI., which also begins at the Alcantara bridge, keeps in the hollow by Las Covachuelas to the present Puerta Visagra, continuing ; thence to the Puerta Lodada, and then joining the old wall near El Nuncio, and thus enclosing the former Moorish gate. The new Puerta Visagra was built in 1550, and, as the inscription states, was dedicated to the Emperor Charles The Castiles. 107 Route 4.— Hospital, Circus , &c. V., by the Ayuntamiento , by whom it was adorned with the fine imperial eagle and shield. Among other sculp- tures of less importance, obs. the statue of San Eugenio by Berruguete or Monegro, and placed there in 1575. San Eugenio, one of the tutelars of the city, was sent by St. Denis to Spain, a.d. 65, and became Bishop of Toledo, but, going back to France, was murdered at St. Denis. His body, however, was discovered by Ramon, the second archbishop of Toledo, who was a Frenchman, and who, in 1156, brought the right arm from France ; Philip II. obtained the rest from Charles IX. The Alameda outside this gate was planted in 1826 by the Corregidor Navarro, who laid out the gardens, now much improved, which extend round under the walls of the Hospital of San Juan Bautista, while the Ronda Nueva runs to the Puerta del Cambron. The statues of Toledan kings, two at each end, are bad and heavy. They belong to the series at the Plaza de Oriente at Madrid, and were given to Archbishop Lorenzana by Charles III. In the suburb, Las Covaehuelas, are some degraded Roman remains. § 5. Hospital of Tavera; Roman Circus ; Cristo de la Yega ; Palace Cattle ; Baths of La Cava. Close by is the Hospital of San Juan Bautista, commonly called from being outside the walls, el Hospital de Afuera ; it was built with four facades by Bartolome de Bustamente in 1541, for the Cardinal Primate Juan de Tavera, whose Cfonica is written by Pedro Salazar de Mendoza, 8vo. Tol. 1603. The magnificence led the environs to reverse the remark of their prototypes in Matthew xxvi. 8, and say, “ Why is so much given to the poor ? ” The facade is unfinished, for although the founder left the care and continuance of the hospital to his heir, he could not bequeath his spirit of beneficence ; it remained many years before it was finished, which the ex- terior is not vet. Enter the classical patio , and proceed by a colonnaded portico to the Doric chapel, whose portal was built by Berruguete; the retablo of the small altar to the rt. was designed and painted by El Greco in 1509 : it is in his worse style. The small picture above the altar to the 1. is also by El Greco. In the centre of the chapel is the noble cinquecento tomb of the founder : the effigy is modelled from his actual body, and is guarded by the four car- dinal Virtues, to which few cardinals were ever better entitled. The de- tails on the whole are finely chiselled, and the cardinal’s head is beautifully modelled. This was the last but not the best work of Berruguete, who died here in 1561 in the room under the clock. Upon leaving the Hospital turn to the rt. down the Ronda Nueva, which skirts the walls, and obs. the Puerta Lodada, with the slits for arrows and the horseshoe arches above : this gate was built by Moorish workmen for Alonso YI. A fine outline of con- vents and palaces, all ruined by the invader, crests the hill, running by the lunatic hospital el Nuncio, to the pinnacled gate del Cambron. Below to the rt. the remains of a long, wide Roman Circus can be dis- tinctly traced: a little further on is the site of the Praetorian temple, which was converted into a church by Sise- buto in 621 ; it is now called el Cristo de la Vega, on account of the old crucifix which stands over the high altar. The right arm of this image hangs down, and therefore several romantic legends have been attri- buted to it — Vide Becquer (Obras), and Zorilla (Romances). Examine this curious basilica, with its absis and external round-headed sunken arch- work. The statue of Leocadia by Ber- ruguete is in a niche over the portal of the ch. It was originally in a similar position inside the adjoining- gate of del Cambron, where the inscrip- tion which belongs to it still remains. The statue is Florentine in style, beautiful in form, and sweet yet serious in expression: the inscription embodies j the vain prayer that Tsedium, Rare, 108 Sect. I. Route 4. — Toledo : San Juan de los Reyes. Ennui , tlie genius of Toledo, may be expelled by lier. In this ch. were buried tlie tutelars of Toledo, San Ildefonso and Santa Leocadia, the events of whose lives have been so much illustrated by Spanish artists and authors. Leocadia, born in 306, was cast down from the rocks above by Dacian : a chapel was raised on tlie site of her fall, in which many councils were held : during one of which (in the year 660) angels appeared and removed the stone from her sepulchre ; she forthwith arose “ clad in a manto,’’ and informed the president, Ildefonso, that “her mistress lived through him.” (He had written a work in defence of the Virgin Mary.) The corpse was rediscovered at San Gislem, in 1500, when Philip I. obtained a portion of it for the chapter of Toledo ; the rest was removed by the relicomaniac Philip II. when fearful that the heretics would conquer the Low Countries. He received the remains at the cathedral in person, April 26, 1587. The 26th of April is still a grand holiday in her honour. Her urna was wrought in silver by Pr°. Merino, 1587. The 10 basso-relievos represent the incidents of her life and removals of her body. Obs. in the garden behind the house of the sacristan 2 very curious tablets, with Arabic inscriptions, let into the wall of the house ; and 2 pillars also in- scribed. Excavations in this garden would probably lead to the discovery of interesting remains of the Praetorian temple. Above to the 1. and growing, as it were, out of the rock, rise the remains of the Palace Castle, built by Wamba in 674, in order to command the W. approach of the city ; the masonry is most massive. Below, on the river- bank, is a Moorish arched alcoba, with an Arabic inscription, which is called by some los Baiios de Florinda (Arabice Zoraida), and more generally the baths of La Cava ; this fair and frail one is said to have been bathing here when Roderick, the last of the Goths, beheld her charms from his terrace above. The sad results are matters of history. The bridge of San Martin below binds rock to rock, and completes the picture. After studying the view down the river, turn back, and re-enter Toledo by the Puerta del Cambron, rebuilt in 1576, when the old Moorish gate was pulled down. Read the in- scription on the inside of the gateway, which belongs to the statue of Leo- cadia. § 6. San Juan de los Reyes; Museum. Advancing, are the remains of the once splendid Franciscan convent, called San Juan de los Reyes, because dedicated to their tutelar apostle John by Ferdinand and Isabella, who built it in commemoration of the decisive victory at Toro ; destined by the stern Ximenez for his reformed monks, it is now a parish church. The site is well chosen, being truly royal and com- manding. Obs. badges and symbols of the Catholic kings, and an infinity of votive chains, suspended outside by captive Christians who were delivered at the conquest of the kingdom of Gra- nada, some of which have been used up for chain-posts! The portal, an ex- quisite gem, was finished by Alonso de Covarrubias for Philip II. This convent, which was one of the finest specimens of fiorid Gothic art in the world, was all but demolished by the invaders, who entirely gutted and burnt the quarters of the monks. Tlie splendid chapel escaped somewhat better, having been used as a stable for their horses. 'Obs. the shields, eagles, badges, ciphers, coronets, and the fringing inscription so common at this period. The exquisite cloisters, with pointed Gothic arches, deserve notice. A portion of the convent has been made into el Museo Pro - vincial. Among the rubbish in it look for the fine bust in marble of Juanelo, by Berruguete: the portrait of Juan de Alava , by Greco, a Christ by Morales , and some old Spanish paintings on panel. The Arabic brims of wells with Cufic inscriptions and Moorish wood -carvings are worth notic- ing. Cardinal Ximenez lived in a ceU 109 The Oastiles. Route 4 . — Synagogues ; Santo Tome . at the upper part of the Museum. This fine building is in course of restoration, under the charge of the skilful artist Don Arturo Melida. A school for Industrial Arts is to be attached to the building, and the upper gallery is intended to serve as a museum for models of different kinds. § 7. Synagogues — Santa Maeia la Blanca; El Transito. Leaving the Museum, turn to the i*t. : the immediate neighbourhood was formerly the Juderia, or Jews’ quarter, in which two most singular synagogues yet remain. The first, now called Santa Maria la Blanca, was probably built in the 12th centy. ; but in 1405, when the ferocious persecutor San Yicente Ferrer goaded on the mob against the Jews, it was converted into a church; so it remained until the Spaniards degraded it in 1791 to 1798, by converting it into a barrack and store-house. It is now kept in good repair, under charge of the Gomision cle Monumentos , but empty and un- used. The five aisles are divided by poly- gonal pillars, which support horse- shoe arches ; remark the circular patterns in the spandrels, the stars, chequer-work, and engrailed Moorish arches. The nuilding is somewhat too high in proportion to the width ; the ceiling is said to be made from beams of the cedars of Lebanon, and the soil below the pavement to have been brought from Mount Zion. At the South Kensington Museum there is a reproduction of one of the arches. The other synagogue, on the op- posite side of the Plazuela Barrio Nuevo, is less ancient, but is finer and better preserved ; although consecrated to San Benito, it is called el Transito, from a picture of the death of the Vir- gin, which has, however, disappeared. The ch. was built in 1366, by Samuel Levi, treasurer to Don Pedro the Cruel, and in fact his Joseph, his Mordecai. His royal master, however, in 1360, being in want of cash, first tortured and then killed poor Levi, seizing his money-bags.* Levi had pre- viously patronised the Jews, who soon became so rich and numerous that the former synagogue was too small, and this splendid “ place .of congregation,” owayo>y7 ;, the precise jama or mosque of the Moor, was built in the Moorish style ; it must indeed have once been gorgeous. Obs. the honeycomb cornice, the rows of engrailed Moorish arches, and the superb artesonado roof. A broad band with foliage contains the arms of Leon and Castile, and is edged with the 84tli Psalm and Hebrew characters, and a damaged inscription. Isabel, in 1494, gave the building to the order of Calatrava : then the holy of holies was converted into an archive, and the galleries of the Jewesses used as the dwelling of the guardian of the church. Among the paintings on panel of the altar to the 1. is repre- sented a knight kneeling, considered to be the only portrait which exists of the Comunero Juan Padilla. A judicious restoration was made in 1881 of this beautiful building. The whitewash has been scraped off the columns of the upper gallery, and they have appeared in their primitive colour- ing. The retablo , which concealed so much of the fine ornamentation, has been removed. It enters into the view of the architect to remove the priest’s house, which has been added to the building, and leave it in its original form. Outside the church of el Transito is the promenade of the same name. It was laid out and planted with nu- merous rows of trees in 1867 : its N. side overhangs the gorge of the Tagus, from whence the river and the ruins of the ancient Moorish corn -mills are seen to advantage. § 8. Santo Tome. Next visit the adjoining church of Santo Tome, to the N. of the Paseo del Transito, with a brick tower of Moorish character ; inside at the W. end of the nave, to the rt. of the prin- * See, for curious details, ch. 7, 15, and 30 of the * Cronica do Don Pedro.’ 110 Sect. I. Route 4. — Toledo: Bridges; the Tagus. cipal door, is the masterpiece of El Greco. This Domenico Theotocupuli, called El Greco because a Greek by birth, settled at Toledo about 1577, Avhere he died in 1625, and lies buried in the San Eartolome. He imitated Titian and Tintoretto, and was also a sculptor and an architect. This pic- ture, which shows how well he could paint when he chose, represents the burial of Gonzalo Ruiz, a descendant of the great Alcaide Esteban Ilian, Conde de Orgaz, in 1312. The de- ceased had repaired this ch. and founded the convent of San Augustin. Adjoining this ch. is the Cuartel de Milicias, once the palace of the Conde de Euensalida, in which Charles Y. was lodged in 1537, and where his wife Isabel died ; it now belongs to the Marquis of Monistrol. A few minutes’ walk from the ch. of Santo Tome is the Plaza de Padilla, on which stood the house of Juan de Padilla and of his noble wife Maria, the leaders of the Comunero insurrection : his house was razed in 1522, by order of Charles V., when a granite pillar with a branding inscription was placed on the site ; a memorial which in its turn was de- stroyed by the reformers of 1848, and a granite column with inscription in honour of Padilla erected in its place. This was removed by the government of 1866. § 9. Bridges and Walk on S. side of the Tagus. Turn now to the 1. along the Calle del Angel, pass out of the city by the Puerta del Cambron, and descend to the bridge of San Martin. It con- sists of one fine pointed central arch, Avith four smaller arches ; it Avas built in the 13tli century, and broken in 1368 by Henry of Trastamara, and repaired by Archbishop Tenorio, a kinsman of “ Don Juan,” and a true pontifex maximus. Obs. in the tower a statue of San Julian by Berruguete, or Monegro, probably the latter. The bridge is very narrow, and is greatly elevated above the level of the river on account of the occasional floods which rush down through the rocky gorge, on the rfc. crest of Avliich towers the grand old city. The river, pleased to escape from its prison, meanders away, amid the green meadows, which woo the lingering stream where all is repose. There are some remains of the piers of an older and perhaps a Roman bridge. On the hills are the cigarrales or Toledan villas, not so called from the multitudinous cigars smoked therein, but from the Latin siccus , on account of the dryness. The Avords secaral and sequeral in Spanish denote a dry locality, of the same kind as the cigarrales , “ a place of trees.” The correct Castilian term for a country villa is Casa de Campo or quinta , Arabice Cliennat chint, 44 a garden.” The wild and melancholy Tagus rises in the Albarracin mountains, and disembogues into the sea at Lisbon, having flowed 375 miles through Spain, of which nature destined it to be the aorta, t The Toledan chroniclers de- rive the name from Tagus, 5tli king of Iberia; but Bochart traces it to Dag , Dagon, a fish, as, besides being con- sidered auriferous, both Strabo and Martial pronounced it to be piscatory, ttoXvixOvs, 'piscosus. Grains of gold are still found by amphibious paupers, called artesilleros from their baskets, in which they collect the sand, which is passed through a sieve. The Tagus, destined by nature for the Avater communication of these lo- calities, but now useless, might easily be made navigable to the sea, and then, united with the Xarama, would con- nect Madrid and Lisbon. This Tagus, a true thing of Avild, romantic Spain, is made for the poet and artist. How stern, solemn, and striking indeed is the lonely, unused river ! No commerce ever made it a highway; its waters have reflected castles and dungeons, instead of quays and warehouses ; few cities have risen on its banks as on the Rhine, scarcely even a village. It flows away solitary and unseen ; its waters without boats, it3 shores without life ; no steamer has either civilized or cocknified its wild Avaters, like those of the Rhone, the Rhine, or the Danube. The Castiles. Ill Houle 4.- Now cross the bridge of San Martin, and ascend the road to the h, where, about 180 yards on, the geologist may observe “the gneiss almost perpen- dicular, with magnificent veins of gra- nite crossing each other in every di- rection: in some the quartz, felspar, and mica occur in very Urge crystals : the quartz is often bluish, perhaps from kyanite. The veins are grey, and con- tinue a long way on the heights above the river opposite the town : there are also very good specimens of graphic granite with large hexagonal crystals of mica.” Soon a valley of rocks is reached, through which trickles a rivu- let, where damsels wash their linen, and colour the grey stones with spark- ling patches, cheering the loneliness with songs. Descend into this valley and follow the stream to the Tagus. The rugged cliff to the 1. near el Mi- rador, is said to have been the Tarpeian rock of Jewish executioners. Having looked at the Moorish mills, reascend to the it. into a scene made for Salvator Rosa, until, on reaching the chapel of Virgin del Valle, Toledo reappears with its emphatic huge square Alcazar towering over rock, ruins, and river ; then clamber up to the shattered castle of San Cervantes, a name which has nothing to do with the author of ‘ Don Quijote,’ tut is a corruption of San Servando: this sentinel outpost formerly guarded the approach to the bridge below, and the site still com- mands a most glorious view of Toledo. Underneath is the rose- planted Paseo de la Kosa, laid out at the beginning of the road to Aranjuez. The mea- dow opposite is a field of romance, and is still called to this day la Huerta del Key, for here Alonso held a cortes when the Cid complained of his vile sons-in-law, the Counts of Carrion.* The ruins scarcely deserve a visit: however, the traveller will here read * La ilustre Fregona 9 of Cervantes, and speculate on the mule’s tail gambling ‘ Daca la Cola 9 The bridge, like others over the Tagus, is called by pleonasm el Puente de Alcantara, the “ bridge of the * For the true history of this Moorish villa, see Gayangos (Moh. D. ii. 383). — Bridges . bridge :” it is formed of two arches and is built in massive stonework. The Roman one was repaired in 687 by the Goth Sala ; destroyed by an inmidation, it was rebuilt in 871 by the Alcaide Halaf; repaired in 1258 by Alonso el Sabio, restored again by Archbishop Tenorio about 1380, and fortified in 1481 by Andres Manrique. Examine also the tower at the city side and tete-du-pont, and the small statue by Berruguete of San Ildefonso, the I)ivus tutelar is to whom Philip II. dedicated the bridge, as is stated in an inscription. The portal at the other end is modern, and in the usual vile style of cheap architectural orna- mentation. From this bridge the city walls diverge, running to the rt. in double line ; the upper one being that built by Wamba, the under and the more modern one that raised by Alonso VI. To the 1. of the bridge is the Ingenio, or waterworks, the construc- tion of which was commenced in 1868, upon the ruins of a former picturesque water work built by JuaneloTurrianoin 1568, which, owing to the necessity of constant repairs, lasted only until 1639. From that time until a few years ago, Toledo has been supplied by the primitive machinery of donkey water- carriers, which have always retained their Moorish appellation of azacanes . Being built upon a rock, the city was without springs, and depended upon its river for a water supply, whereupon the Romans stemmed the defile of the Tagus with a gigantic viaduct and aqueduct, which ran from the Puerto de Yevenes, distant 21 m. Some remains may still be traced near the convents Santa Sisla and Santiago, and its line is still called el Camino de Plata, the “ road of silver.” There was also an enormous naurah, noria , or water-wheel, 90 cubits high, which forced up water by pipes. This was a work of the Moors, who introduced the hydraulics of the East. The am- phibious Moslem loved cool water; for ablutions inside and outside are both pleasant and religious under a torrid sun ; so where a Greek put up a statue, and a Christian a crucifix, he con- structed a fountain or dug a well. The 112 houte 4 . — Toledo : the Alcazar . Toledan Moors were first-rate hydrau- lists (see ‘Moh. D/ ii. 262): their king Al-mamun, Ibn Dhi-a-nun, or Yahya, had a lake in his palace, and in the middle of his gardens a kiosk, from whence water descended on each side^ thus enclosing him in the coolest of summer-houses, exactly like the de- vice in the Kasr Dubarra, now existing at Cairo. Here also were made, by Az-Zarcal, the clepsydras, or water- clocks, for the astronomical calcula- tions of Alonso el Sabio, to study which Daniel Merlac came all the way from Oxfordin 1 185. The modern works which have been constructed to provide the town with water were finished in January 1870, since which time Toledo has been abundantly sup- plied. § 10. Alcazar. Next visit the Alcazar, the Atalaya of Tolaitola, the palace and fortress of a city which it once defended and now adorns. It was the Amalekite Kassabah, to which additions were made in 1085 by Alonso YI. : the oldest portions overlook the Tagus. This Alcazar was much improved by Alvaro de Luna, and by Charles Y. in 1518 ; he employed Alonso de Covar- rubias and other distinguished archi- tects, to add the fine facade and stair- case, which Herrera completed for Philip II. The edifice was burnt in the war of succession by General Sta- remberg, after much damage done by his troops, composed of German, Dutch, English, and Portuguese soldiers. The ruins were repaired by Cardinal Loren- zana, a munificent patron of literature, who converted the building into a Casa de Caridad, in which paupers were employed in silk- weaving. This great and good primate devoted his whole life and income to goodworks ; hedied in 1804, having resigned his primacy for several years. When the French occupied Toledo, they converted the Alcazar into a barrack, after having ejected the paupers and confiscated the funds of the charity. The edifice was afterwards burnt as a last legacy by Soult’s troops when evacuating the Sect. X. half-ruined city; so Heidelberg had been treated by the hordes of Louis XIY. Obs. the Covarrubias facade, win- dows, the patio with granite pillars, the fine staircase, and upper gallery decked with heraldic ornaments in the spandrels of the arches, which the invaders mutilated, and which has now been restored. A copy of the fine bronze statue of the Emperor Charles Y., by Pompeo Leoni, at the Madrid Gallery, has been placed in the Patio. In the saloons overlooking the river the widow of Philip IV., the queen regent, was confined during the minority of Charles II. ; her mode of life has been graphically described by Madame d’Aulnoy, and Dunlop, ii. 123. She was first the tool of the low ad- venturer Nithard, and then of her base paramour Valenzuela. The Alcazar has been repaired and converted at a cost of 20,000Z. into a Military Academy, for the education of officers for the Spanish infantry. Accommodation is provided for 600 pupils. Permission to visit it is readily given by the officer in com- mand. Now proceed to the Zocodover, which is the principal square of Toledo. To readers of Lazarillo de Tormes and Cervantes the name will recall the haunt of rogues, and of those proud and poor Don Whiskerandos who swag- gered and starved with their capas y espadas. Suh in Arabic, Zoco in Spanish, and Soke in English, signify a “market-place.” This plaza is a fashionable promenade in summer, and a general lounge all the year round for Toledan idlers. It was for years the site of national sports of fire and blood, of the auto de fe and the bull-fight. Visit next the Gothic cathedral, to which the only widish street in Toledo leads.* § 11. Cathedral. The Cathedral is said by the Church chroniclers to have been erected to * Consult Street’s ‘Gothic Architecture of Spain,’ and the excellent Guide, ‘ Toledo en la mano,’ by Parro. - o **- — $ .>‘0 / % \/ A. Capilla Mayor. B. Coro. C. Nave. J). D. Transepts. E. E. Sacristies. F. Entrance to Sacristy. G. G.G. Cloisters. H. Steeple. I. Bridge from the Arch- bishop’s Palace. K. Winter Chapter Room. L. Sacristy ofMozarabic Chapel. M. Summer Chapter House. [Spain, 1882 .] Plan of Toledo Cathedeal. 1. Chapel of Santiago. 2 . ~ ~ 3. 4. 5. 6 . 7. 8 . 9. 10 . 11 . 12 . 13. San Ildefonso. la Trinidad. San Nicolas. San Gil. St. John Baptist, the Presentation, the Holy Ghost. Sta. Lucia. San Eugenio. San Martin, de la Concepcion. Epiphania. 14. Mozarabic Chapel. 15. Chapel of Teresa de Haro. 16. Capilla Bautismal. 17. Chapel de la Piedad. 18- n San Pedro. 19* * > the Flagellation. 20. , , Sta. Leocadia. 21. ,, los Reyes Nuevos. 22. Puerta de los Leones. 23. , , las Palmas. 24. , , del Perdon. 25. , , de los Escribanos. 26. , , la Presentacion. 27. ,, Sta. Catalina. 28. , , de Nino Perdido. 29. Nuestra Senora de la Antigua 30. Capilla dejBan Ildefonso. I 114 Boute 4. — Toledo: Cathedral . Sect. I. tlie Virgin while she was alive ; she is stated to have often come down from heaven to it, accompanied by St. Peter, St. Paul, and Santiago. Con- verted by the Moors into their grand mosque, Alonso VI., at the conquest, guaranteed it to them ; but the moment the king was absent, Bernardo, the first archbishop, backed by the queen Constanza, a native of France like himself, seized the mosque and dispos- sessed the Moors. The building was pulled down in 1226 by St. Ferdinand, a great destroyer of mosques, who him- self laid the first stone of the present cathedral. Designed by Petrus Petri, it was completed in 1492, plundered in 1521 by Padilla’s mob, and again in 1808 by the invaders under Gen. La Houssaye, the sacker of the Escorial. Previously it was a mine of wealth and art ; thus Cean Bermudez enume- rates 149 artists, who, during six cen- turies, were employed by the richest prelates of Spain to make this a temple worthy of the primacy, a dignity which was long held by the master-mind of the day. This church belongs to the pure vigorous style of the 13th cen- tury, and is not inferior to any of the great French cathedrals ( see Street), and far superior in fine and rich furni- ture, picturesque effect and artistic objects of every kind. The older archbishops of Toledo were great alike in peace and war ; the Rodrigos headed victorious armies, the Tenorios built bridges, the Fonsecas founded colleges, the Mendozas and Ximenez, third kings and regents, founded universities ; while the Ta- verns and Lorenzanas raised houses of charity and hospitals. These monu- ments, indeed, have been swept away by rude hands, foreign and domestic, but their memory abides, nor will the new lay appropriates easily either re- pair the outrages, or rival those works of piety and science, those offerings which the consecrated hands of old had laid on the altar. The primate of Toledo has for suf- fragans, Coria, Cuenca, Psilencia, and Siguenza : the chapter was truly im- perial, and consisted of nearly 100 dignities and prebendaries. Here, as at Leon and Burgos, the pope and king of Spain were canons, and the monarch was always fined 2000 mara- vedis for non-attendance in coro on the three days from Christmas to St. John the Evangelist. Before entering, examine the ex- terior and gates. The exterior itself is nowhere very striking or symmetri- cal, whilst the N.E. entrance is blocked up : the best point of view is from the W. side of the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, to which the grand facade looks. One tower only is finished, which ascend for the magnificent view obtained from it of the city and the suburbs : this tower was begun by Cardinal Tenorio and finished (in 1535) by Cardinal Ta- vera. It rises 325 feet high, from a square base to a Gothic middle storey, and terminates with a thin spire en- circled as with crowns of thorns. The cupola of the other tower is after a design of El Greco. La Puerta de los Leones, at the extremity of the S. transept, is so called from the lions with shields placed on pillars. The deeply-recessed portal, with Gothic figures and niche-work, was wrought by Annequin de Egas, Alfonso Fer- nandez, and Juan Aleman in 1466, in a beautiful white stone, which, soft at first, hardens with time; the upper works were restored in bad taste in 1776, by Mariano Sal vatierra, by whom is the “Assumption of the Virgin/’ The exteriors of the Michael-Angel- esque bronze doors were commenced in 1545 by Francisco de Villalpando, and the insides were finely carved in wood in 1541 by Diego Copin, of Hol- land, and six other sculptors; but the tournaments, centaurs, &c., are scarcely suited for a Christian temple’s entrance ; the modern Ionic gate, on the S. side of the nave, is equally out of keeping with the Gothic style of the cathedral. The Puerta del Kelcj, or de la Eeria, at the end of the N. transept, is much blocked up by buildings, and is also disfigured by some modern red and gilt wood-work, which ill accords with the Gothic stone carvings; it is the oldest door of the cathedral, and the sculptures outside are worthy of notice ; the The Oastiles. Boute 4.— Cathedral. 115 bronze doors were cast to match those of the opposite gate, that to the 1. is by Antonio Zurreno, 1713, that to the rt. by J uan Antonio Dominguez. They are also ornamented with carvings inside, which are older in date and better in style ; the Puerta del Per don, the great W. door, has six niches on each side, which are carried all up round the arch; the style is rich Gothic of the 15th century. The large centre door is covered with bronze embossed work with fine orna- mentation and inscriptions; among them is the date 1337, when the doors were made. The painted windows are superb. Look at them half an hour before sun- set, when, as the aisles darken, these storied panes brighten up like rubies and emeralds. These windows (some of the earliest in Spain) were painted chiefly by foreigners ; by Dolfin, 1418, by Alberto de Holanda, Maestro Christobal, Juan de Campos, Luis, Pedro Frances, and Yasco Troya. The subjects are taken from the Bible and legends of local saints, interspersed with the shields of the donors : they were finished in 1560. The interior of the cathedral con- sists of five naves, supported by 84 piers ; the length is 404 feet, the width 204; the central nave is the highest. The cloisters lie to the N., near the Sagrario and Salas, which contain the relics and pictures. The coro , as usual, is placed in the heart of the central nave, but, as the rich Gothic trascoro is not very high, the eye sweeps over it. It is a museum of sculpture ; the under stalls were carved in 1495 by Maestro Kodrigo: enriched with grotesque ornaments, they represent the campaigns of Ferdinand and Isa-, bella, much in the style of Mazolino de Panicale. The name of each lo- cality occupied by its representative is carved on each seat. Obs. par- ticularly, in these authentic contem- porary records of citadels, arms, and costume, the surrender of the Al- hambra. The upper stalls are in a perfect classical contrast, being em- broidered with a prodigality of orna- ment ; above them, in alabaster, or in most ivory-looking marble, is the ge- nealogy of Christ, while the niches are divided by candelabra pillars rest- ing on heads of cherubs. The seats themselves are separated by red marble columns. The inscription placed here by Cardinal Tavera in 1543 tells the truth. “ Signa turn marmorea turn lignea ccelavere hinc Philippus Bur- gundio, ex adverso Berruguetus His- panus; certaverunt turn artificum in- genia, certabunt semper spectatorum judicial” and in passing judgment it is not easy to distinguish the works of one master from those of the other ; of the 79 stalls, the 35 on the Lado del Evangelic are by Yigarny, who died here in 1543, and was buried near his works. The Primate’s throne, and the Transfiguration over it, a subject which from its very nature is ill adapted for solid materials, was carved by Berru- guete ; the 35 stalls opposite were also carved by him. Obs. also in the coro the exquisite atriles , or reading-desks, of gilt metal, wrought with Scriptural bas-relief divided by female figures, a truly Florentine-like masterpiece of Nicholas de Yergara and his son. The facistol or lettern , consists of an eagle on a Gothic tower, with statues in niches, and is excellent. The black wooden image of the Yirgin before it is very ancient. The reja which surrounds the altar, the gilt pillars which support the curtains and the candelabra, are of the cin- quecento taste, and the works of Yil- lalpando and Diaz del Corral. The large reja at the entrance of the coro deserves a special notice, nothing can be finer than the style of the ornamen- tation. It was finished in 1548 by Domingo de Cespedes and Fernando Bravo. Passing Entre los dos Coros, ob- serve the two pulpits of metal gilt, placed on short marble columns, and of exquisite workmanship, like the richest plate. These, worthy of Cellini, were made from the bronze tomb raised for himself by Alvaro de Luna, and broken up in 1449 by Henry, Infante of Aragon, when soured by his defeat at Olmedo ; whereupon Alvaro sent him a copy of verses on i 2 116 Route 4. — Toledo : Cathedral. Sect. I. this paltry revenge, while Juan de Mena (Cop. 264) condemns the un- civilized Vandals, whose “ hearts were harder than the bronze.” The metal figures were so articulated as to rise up and kneel when Mass was said. The glorious rejct was wrought in 1548 by Villalpando. The Capilla Mayor was enlarged by Cardinal Ximenez; but the rich Gothic work at the sides is older and finer, and formed part of the original work of Tenorio. The lofty and superb Gothic retdblo , which is as- cended by jasper and coloured steps, with five divisions, contains carvings of the life of the Saviour and Virgin, executed about 1500, by 27 artists under the directions of Enrique Egas and Pedro Gumiel (see Pardo). The whole is estofado , or painted and gilt. Here are the tombs of the ancient kings, los Beyes Viejos ; to wit, of Alonso VII., SanchoeZ Deseado, Sancho el Bravo , the Infante Don Pedro, and some other princes. Here also lies buried the Cardinal Mendoza, ob. 1495. This high-born and great prelate almost shared the sovereignty with Ferdinand and Isabella, whence he was called Tertius Rex ; he united religious with ministerial power. Obs. the beautiful and infinite details of pinnacles, winged angels, and statues in niches, among them the statue of Alonso VIII., the conqueror, and, on the gospel side, that of the bearded Shepherd San Isidro, who led the Christians to vic- tory at las Navas de Tolosa, and, oppo- site, that of the “ good Alfaqui,” who interceded on behalf of the Frenchman Bernardo. Next observe the sober Gothic Re- spaldos del Coro, erected by Archbishop Tenorio in the 14th century, and one of the finest things in the church, which contrast with the trasparente, a work of the 18th century, which is the boast of the Toledans ; it was wrought by Narciso Tome, a heresiarch of Churri- guerism. Obs. in this “fricassee of marble ” the figure of San Bafael , head downwards, with his legs kicking out above him in the air. He holds in his rt. hand a huge gilt fish. The Arch- bishop Porto Carrero imported quarries from Italy for this and similar churri- gueresque ornamentations : he ought to have been called Porto Carrara. He was the prime mover of Philip V.’s succession ; this kingmaker lies buried opposite the Capilla del Sagrario, with the epitaph “ Hie jacet pul vis cinis et nihil.” In spite, however, of its ab- surdities, it evinces much invention, and great workmanship and mastery over material ; unfortunately a fine old retdblo and pictures were destroyed, as at Leon, to make room for this huge monstrosity in marble. Next visit the adjoining chapel of Santiago, or el Condestable, erected in 1442, in the richest flamboyant Gothic, by that great “imp of fame,” the Constable Alvaro de Luna, as his family burial-place ; as he was master of Santiago, the Veneras or scallop- shells abound, as also do his canting arms, “gules party azure, a crescent (Luna) reversed argent.” The original bronze tombs, it is said, were con- verted into pulpits, and the present sadly mutilated ones, of alabaster, were sculptured by Pablo Ortiz in 1489, and erected by Maria, daughter of Alvaro. The armed Maestre , who was executed at Valladolid, in 1451, by his un- grateful sovereign, lies with his sword between his legs, while knights clad in hauberk mail kneel at each corner of the tomb ; by his side is the tomb of his wife, Juana de Pimentel, ob. 1489, for the repose of whose soul two monks and two nuns at the opposite angles are praying; the portraits of the deceased form part of the retablo of the altar mayor : that of the con- stable to the 1., that of the wife to the rt. of the central panel, which repre- sents the descent from the cross. Under these tombs there exists a vault, which had to be repaired at the beginning of this century. The workmen who entered it said that the skeletons of Don Alvaro and his wife were found seated at a table, the head of Don Alvaro being placed before him. Ob- serve also the once gilt tomb of Juan de Zerezuela, Archbishop of Toledo, ob. 1442; he was half-brother to the Constable, and the tombs of his uncle, Archbishop Don Pedro, and of his son The Castiles. Boute 4. — Cathedral . 117 Don Jnan. Obs. the laurel leaves on the bead wreathed like a turban. Visit also the most beautiful Capilla de los Reyes Nuevos, the chapel of the new or later kings, as compared to those older ones buried near the high altar. The original tomb-house was built in 1374 by Enrique II. ; it was recon- structed in 1531, for Cardinal Ta- vera, by Alonso de Covarrubias and Alvaro Monegro; heralds in tabards marshal the stranger into this cham- ber of departed royalty ; here, under white and gold niches of richest Cellini plateresque embroidery, repose Enrique II., ob. 1379, his wife Juana, ob. 1381, their son Juan I., ob. 1390, his wife Leonora, ob. 1382 (their effigies knelt at the Presbiterio), Enrique III., ob. 1407, his wife Catalina (daughter of our John of Gaunt), ob. 1419. Juan II., by whose orders the first chapel was built, lies buried at Miraflores, but his statue is placed here among his ancestors, kneeling on a bracket. The five paintings under glass are by Maella. N.B. — This chapel must he visited before 9 a.m. Every other chapel must be visited. In San Eugenio an arch and tomb of elaborate tarhish work made for Fernan Gudiel, who died in 1278. It is an interesting specimen of Moorish de- coration. The inscriptions in Arabic characters, felicity and prosperity , are very commonly employed in Arabian monuments. In the chapel Santa Lucia some ancient monuments and inscrip- tions exist of the 13th centy. ; notice a good painting of the Martyrdom of St. Peter, and outside to the I. another of St. John with a lamb, and full of effect. In the Capilla de Nuestra Senora de la Antigua, obs. the rich Gothic work of the deep-recessed niche of the Virgin’s image. In la Adoracion de los Santos Reyes the stone portal is painted in red, blue, and gold; the retablo, the reja with twisted bars, and the picture of the dead Saviour must not be overlooked. The chapel of San Xldefonso was founded by Rodrigo, Alonso VIIl.’s fighting primate. It was much im- proved by Gil de Albornoz, who is buried here, ob. 1350. His tomb is a masterpiece of Gothic niche and statue work, but is much mutilated. Next obs. that of his nephew Alonso, Bishop of Avila, ob. 1514, which is a charming specimen of cinquecento, with a raised work of birds, fruit, &c., picked out in white and gold, which canopies the urna on which the prelate lies. Near in a niche is the sepulchre of Inigo Lopez Carrillo de Mendoza, with the curious cap and jewel of the period ; he died in 1491 at the siege of Gra- nada. Close by is the tomb of Arch- bishop Juan de Contreras and of Car- dinal Gaspar Borja, ob. 1645. The modern altar, with its poor statuary, is by the commonplace Ventura Ro- driguez. The marble medallion to the rt. of the altar represents the bust of San Ambrosio, that to the 1. the bust of San Casian. This noble Gothic chapel is also illustrated with sculpture relating to the tutelar San Ildefonso, who was originally buried in the ch. of el Cristo de la Vega, and whose legend has afforded subjects to Mu- rillo and the best Spanish artists. San Ildefonso (whose grand festival takes place here Jan. 22) became pri- mate of Toledo, where he died in 617, and was buried at the feet of Santa Leocadia; his body at the Moorish invasion was also carried off, and was long lost, until, about the year 1270, a Toledan shepherd was caught in the cathedral at Zamora ; suspected of being a thief, he replied, “ San Ilde- fonso, appearing in person, led me here and vanished : ” thereupon Alonso VIII. dug the site, and a body was found, a chapel was built, and miracles were daily worked; see the details in Ortiz (Chr. xiv.). As Zaragoza claimed the primacy of Aragon because the Virgin had come down from heaven to visit Santiago there, so Toledo owes its elevation in Castile from her coming down to this San Ildefonso; accordingly Cardinal Rojas erected a shrine over the exact spot, which rises in a lofty pyramidal pile of open gilt carved Gothic work; observe his arms and portrait. The beautiful basso-relievos by Vigarny represent San Ildefonso preaching his remarkable sermon, and his receiving the casulla ; behind is 118 the slab on which the Virgin’s feet alighted : encased in red marble, it is railed off, and inscribed, “ Adorabimus in loco nbi steterunt pedes ejus.”— The older motto, according to Ortiz, ran thus — « Quando la Reina del cielo Puso los pies en el suelo En esta piedra los puso ; De besarla tened uso Para mas vuestro consuelo.” The multitude have worn away the stone with their kisses, as at Zaragoza and Santiago. Obs. also the portrait of Esteban Ilian, the renowned alcaide and faithful friend of Alonso XI. Next visit the Capilla Mozarabe, the Muzarabic chapel which is placed under the unfinished tower; the re- tciblo of the altar consists of a fine An- nunciation in mosaics, which was exe- cuted in Rome in 1800. Ask for the first 'printed copy of the Muzarabic ritual (1502) : it is in beautiful pre- servation. This peculiar ritual was re- established here in 1512, by Ximenez, to give the Vatican a hint, that Spain had not forgotten her former spiritual independence ; in fact, however ultra- Romanist the policy and practice of Spaniards has apparently been, they have always resisted the real dominion of the foreign pontiff. This is the only place in Toledo where the Muz- arabic ritual is daily performed. (Ser- vice is said daily at half-past eight o'clock .) The wall at the W. end of this chapel was painted in fresco by Juan de Bor - gona in 1514, and represents the battle of Oran, which was planned, defrayed, and headed by Ximenez in person; hence the saying, “ Pluma, Purpura y Espada solo en Cisneros se hallaP Remember that Spaniards generally, call Ximenez, Cisneros. Next visit the beautiful Sala Ca- pitular de Invierno, the winter chapterhouse : the ante-room has a Moorish ceiling. The fine wardrobe at the 1. was made for the. Arch- bishop Silices (tutor to Philip II.), in 1549-51, by Gregorio Pardo, a pupil of Berruguete, the one opposite was carved in 1780 by Lopez Durango. They are among the earliest specimens Sect. I. of the Benaissance style in Spain. The square portal was executed by Bernardino Bonifacio, and the door- way by Antonio Gutierrez in 1504, after designs of Antonio Rodriguez, the expense being defrayed by Xi- menez. Obs. also the 3 elaborate niches with rich finials. On entering the sala first lookup and down at the pavement, and the glorious artesonado ceiling, the work of the celebrated Lopez de Arenas, and Francisco Lara. The walls are decorated with a series of paint- j ings, executed in 1511 for Cardinal Xi- menez, by Juan de Borgona, which resemble Pietro Perugino in style. The best are the Nativity of the Vir- gin — her meeting St. Elisabeth in a rocky scene — the Gilt of the Casulla — a pretty “Holy Family” near the throne, and a “Last Judgment,” which covers the whole of the wall above the entrance doorway. Above the seats are hung portraits of the primates, 94 in number — that of San- doval is by Tristan — which, from Xi- menez downwards, are genuine. Obs. that of Arch. Carranza de Miranda (ob. 1576), who figured at the Council of Trent, was also the Confessor of our Mary, and stood by the death-bed of Charles V. ; dying at last at Rome, a victim of the Spanish Inquisition. The Sagrario , Sacristia , Ochavo , and other saloons which contain the pic- tures, relics, &c.,were planned in 1588 by Cardinal Qniroga, begun in 1616 by Juan Bautista Monegro for Cardinal Rojas, and finished by Archbishop Mos- coso in 1652-8. The grand entrance, with coloured marbles, to the Capilla del Sagrario, was erected in 1610 by Cardinal Rojas, nephew of the Duke of Lerma, minister to Philip. III. His family is buried in the Capilla Santa Marina: obs. the tombs, inscriptions, roof, and frescoes by Caxes and Car- ducho. The ceiling of the Salon de la Sacristia is painted by Luca Gior- dano with the standing local miracle of the Virgin’s gift of the Casulla : obs. the artist’s own portrait near the win- dow to the 1. of the altar. . Among the best pictures are a Venetian -like Mar- tyrdom of Santa Leocadia by Orente, with a fine figure in black near a Route 4. — Toledo : Cathedral . The Castiles. Route 4.— Cathedral. 119 pillar — el Calvario , or Christ bearing his Cross, by j El Greco ; also by him a Nativity and an Adoration, and some Apostles. Inquire particularly for a small Scm Francisco , a carved image of about 2 J feet high, by Alonso Cano, which is a masterpiece of cadaverous ecstatic sentiment. In the Vestuario are other pictures, and among them a Julio II. equal to Vandyck ; a Nativity and a Circumcision by Bassano; a sketch by Rubens of St. George and the Holy Family ; and Entombment, by Bellini. The Ochavo is an octagon, completed in 1630 by a son of El Greco , with most precious marbles, and a dome painted in fresco by F. Rico and Carreno. This is the place where the relics of the church are kept. Obs. the fine reliquaries of gold, silver, ivory, and rock-crystal. They date from the 12th to the 18th century, and are chiefly presents from Spanish and foreign princes; and possess great artistic merit. There are 116 in all, without counting the silver busts, statuettes, or urns containing the bodies of Santa Leocadia and San Eugenio. The quantity of church-plate once made this room rival that of Loreto; the chief articles were removed to Cadiz upon the French invasion. Tile in- vaders, however, gleaned pretty well, having taken about23 cwt. of silver from this cathedral alone ! The admirer of old plate will examine the silver- gilt shrines made for the bodies of San Eugenio and Santa Leocadia, for Philip II., by Francisco Merino, 1565-87; a statue of St. Ferdinand in silver. The fine Gothic Custodia is kept in another room, it is a master- piece of Enrique de Arfe ; it was finished in 1524, and weighs 10,900 ounces, in- dependent of the gold cross on the top, said to be made with the first gold brought by Columbus to Europe : the identical cross belonging to Cardinal Mendoza, which was elevated in 1492 on the captured Alhambra ; the sword of Alonso VI. the conqueror of Toledo. Notice also an Incensario , made in the shape of a ship ; a Gothic spire-shaped relicario , which branches out like an epergne ; a precious vessel encased with antique gems : the huge silver alle- gories of the four quarters of the globe, winch are more valuable for material than fine art. But the “ Great Queen ” of this ca- thedral is the image of the Virgin, carved of black wood ; it was saved (se dice) in 711 from the infidels by one Godman ('Goodman), an English- man, who hid it in a vault, from whence it reappeared at the reconquest of Toledo. It is seated on a silver throne made in 1674, under a silver - gilt canopy, supported by pillars. The superb crown and bracelets of precious stones, made in the 16t.h century, were stolen in 1868. In a wardrobe near the Custodia, the famous mantle of the Virgin is kept, it was embroidered with pearls in 1615. The following materials were employed : 257 ounces of pearls of different sizes ; 300 ounces of gold thread; 160 ounces of small pieces of enamelled gold, and 8 ounces of emeralds and precious stones. Her rings, necklaces, and trinkets are countless. Notwithstanding the quan- tity of objects of every kind which were carried off by the invaders, many remain of great importance. Since the robbery in 1868, it is diffi- cult to see them without a special per- mission. Among the historical objects worthy of special notice at the cathe- dral are the fine illuminated Bible, a present from San Luis, Bishop of Toulouse, the banners from the battle of Las Navas, the flag with the arms of the League which hung from the gallery of Don Juan of Austria at the battle of Lepanto. This flag, with several smaller ones taken from the Turks, is hung out on the first Sunday in October, the anniversary of the battle, from the transept of the cathe- dral. Travellers must not fail to look at the splendid church vestments , fron- tals, &c. They are kept in a room near the Patio del Tesorero , near the sacristy, and are surprisingly beautiful. Obs. the tent-hangings of gold twine, embroidered with the arms and motto of Ferdinand and Isabella. Tanto Monta and banner {manga) given by Cardinal Ximenez. The elegant Gothic cloisters, full of sunshine and flowers, were erected by 120 Boute 4 . — Toledo : Cathedral . Sect. I. Archbishop Tenorio, on the site of the Alcana or Jews’ market. As the Israelites would not sell this coveted Naboth’s vineyard, the pious prelate instigated the mob in the year 1389 to bum the houses of the unbelievers, and he then raised this beautiful en- closure on their foundations. Part of the walls were painted at the end of the 11th century by Bayeu andMaella. the old fresco paintings being much damaged in the cloister. Visit the Capilla de San Bias. It takes a great deal of trouble to get the keys. In the retablo is a grand picture, painted in 1584 by Luis de Velasco, by whom also is the Incarna- tion, which is not the work of Bias del Prado ; it represents the Virgin, Saints, and the armed infante Fer- nando, who refused the crown on the death of Enrique III. The old fres- coes inside the upper arches are of the 14th century. They belong to the school of Giotto, and may have been painted by Stamina. They must be looked at with attention, in the middle of the day, for the light is bad : they are of the highest interest. In the elegant tomb in the centre, the work of Fernan Gonzalez, lies the founder of the chapel, Archbishop Tenorio, ob. 1399. Near lies Arias, Bishop of Placencia, and the friend of Tenorio ; the David and Lion are painted by Jordan. You ascend to the upper portion of the cloisters, which were finished by Ximenez, by a mag- nificent staircase. A door to the E. leads to the Sala Capitular de Verano, the summer chapterhouse, in which used to be kept three excellent pic- tures, called la Espada , el Pajaro, and el Pez ; these were painted in 1584 by Velasco, although they have long been erroneously attributed to Bias del Prado : they are now in the chapel under the finished tower. The different gates or entrances to these cloisters deserve notice. The beautiful Puerta de Santa Catalina, with its recessed arch inside, was built by Gutierrez de Cardenas, who with his son are placed adoring the Virgin de la Antigua , his wife and daughter being opposite. Look then at the Capilla de la Pila Bautismal, where the font is made from part of the destroyed bronze of Luna. La Puerta Nueva, or de la Presentacion, of the date 1565, is exquisite; it was wrought in the tran- sition style from the Gothic to the plateresque, by J uan Manzano and four other sculptors. The Corinthian front has been, however, attributed to Berruguete. The Puerta de los Cano- nigos in la Capilla de la Torre, by Covarrubias, is in the same elegant transition style. The once beautiful plateresque gate del Nino Perdido, “of the lost child,” which leads from the cloisters into the Calle Arco del Key, was erected in 1565 by Toribio Rodriguez. This little Cupid of Spanish mythology has been the theme of many a pen and pencil. Obs. the fresco painting around the gate (inside), which represents the cap- ture and the crucifixion of this typical child, by Jews. The library, a noble saloon, is well lighted, and free from dust ; indeed, little enters here save the light and air of heaven. It contains a good collec- tion of MSS. ; a Bible of San Isidoro ; the works of St. Gregory, in 7 vols. of the 13th century ; a fine Talmud and Koran; a Greek Bible of the 10th centy. ; an Esther in Hebrew ; some MSS. of the time of Dante ; a Pliny of the 10th centy., and a splendid Bible in several volumes illuminated for Car- dinal Ximenez; and many others of the age of Leo X. The printed books, of which most are Italian, were given by Lorenzana, who bought them at Rome.* They were taken to Madrid by Zorilla during the Revolution, and many were never returned , § 12. Archbishop’s Palace and Town-hall. In the W. Plaza of the cathedral is * The Holy Week ceremonies are very im- pressive at Toledo, and well worth seeing. At Corpus Christi the splendid tapestries are hung round the Cathedral during the octave, and the fine custodia and banners carried in procession. The Tutelar Saint’s festival, San lldefonso (Jan. 22), is also a great day at Toledo. The chapels, jewels, and choir must be seen after 2 P.M. The Castiles. Route 4. — Hospital, Mosque , Convents , &c . 121 the archbishop’s palace, the fine portal of which was made by order of Tavera for his Hospital de Afuera, but appro- priated by his successor. There is here a library open to the public. The adj oining Casa del Ayuntamiento, or mansion-house, was built by Dome- nico Greco. The large saloon upstairs is worth visiting for the sake of its velvet hangings and furniture. It has been copied as a background by several distinguished artists. On the staircase are some verses addressed to the, municipality, desecliad las aficiones, co- dicias , amor y miedo , &c., excellent theories on paper, most excellently neglected in Spanish practice. § 13. Hospital of Santa Cruz. Near the Zocodover is the Hospital de la Santa Cruz, now converted into a college for orphan sons and daugh- ters of officers ; it has not, however, been much injured by the transfor- mation, and continues to be one of the gems of the city. It was founded in 1501 by Pedro Mendoza, the great Cardinal de Santa Croce. No chasing of Benvenuto Cellini’s can surpass in richness the portal, over which the Invention of the Cross is placed, with the kneeling founder and Santa Helena. The general style of the edifice is in the transition from florid Gothic to the classical and Renaissance. It was finished in 1511 by Enrique de Egas, for whose exquisite chisellings the creamy stone seems to have been created. A superb patio is enriched with the arms of the proud Mendoza, and their motto Ave Maria gratia plena. The staircase, which, with its ceilings, balustrades, &c., baffles de- scription. The chapel, one fine long nave, is unfinished, nor is the altar placed where it was originally intended. There are some bad pictures by L. Giordano , and a portrait of the founder. San Pedro Martir, now a Poor House, has a grand patio 100 ft. square, with 3 tiers of galleries resting on carved arches and pillars. In the middle a Moorish wall. § 11. Moorish Mosque ; Cristo de la Luz. In the Calle del Cristo de la Luz there is a small church, which is un- doubtedly one of the most interesting buildings in Spain. It was originally a mosque in miniature, and from its similarity to the one at Cordova, is anterior to the 11th centy. It is di- vided into nine compartments by four circular columns, from the capitals of which spring 16 round horseshoe arches. One or two of the capitals certainly belong to some Yisigotliic construction. The nine small vaults formed by the intersecting ribs are varied in design, and very remark- able. Here Alonso YI. heard the first mass on entering Toledo as conqueror in 1035. This mosque was given to the Templars in 1186, and at that time was added the brickwork apsis. Obs. the mural painting of Saints lately discovered, belonging to the 13th century. § 15. Convents and Churches. Not far from the Cristo de la Luz to the W. is the convent of Santo Domingo el Real, which must be visited early. The effect of the nuns in the choir is most picturesque. In the sacristia is a well preserved Christian sarcophagus of the 4tli or 5th century. Yisit also the nunnery of Santiago or Santa Fe, near the Zocodover. The nuns are ready to receive strangers, and a small contribution for the poor is gratefully received. The nuns, 15 in number, are noble ladies, Caballeras , and wear the white robes and red cross of the order of Santiago. The views from the mirador (balcony) and azotea are most charming ; the interior has two fine patios, enriched with pillars and porcelain tiles : the chapel is elaborately decorated, and has a semi-Moresque oratory near the coro. In the Sala Capitular are some pictures, and a Dead Christ, attributed to Alonso Cano. San Juan de la Penitencia, in the S.E. quarter of the city, and founded for the Franciscan order by Cardinal 122 Sect. I. Houle 4. — Toledo : Sword Manufactory. Ximenez in 1511 ; the chapel is plain, | and has been unfortunately white- washed; the ceiling is of Moorish artesonado character, but dilapidated. Here also is the tomb of Francisco Ruiz, Bishop of Avila, a friend of Ximenez, and by whom the edifice was completed. The hair of the seated females looks somewhat too large and turban-like, but the curtain raised by angels throws a fine sepulchral shadow over the prelate's effigy. The pillared retablo is filled with paintings, and the reja is good. The lovers of the fabulous may visit the cave of Hercules, in which Roderic, the last of the Goths, saw such porten- tous visions (see Southey's note, 54). The entrance lies near San Gines, and was opened in 1546 by Archbishop Siliceo, but it has never since been pro- perly investigated. The ecclesiologist should inquire for the beautiful Ionic chapel in the Ber- nardine convent of Santo Domingo de Silos. It was built by El Greco, who designed and painted most of the re- tablos. The Assumption of the Virgin which now exists is a copy, the original having been bought 40 years ago by the Infante Don Sebastian. In San Roman, especially in the tower, is some Moorish work and inscriptions, with singular arches and ancient pillars. From the tower Alonso VIII. was proclaimed. There are some strange mummies in the vaults. Near it, at San Clemente, there is a good cinque- cento gate. In San Pedro Martir are some statues of Faith and Charity, and one of the tutelar in black and white marble. § 16. Old Houses.* The architect will have much to * Full details will be found in the ‘ Memorias ’ of Eugenio, Larruga, vols. 5 to 10. ‘ Historia del Toledo/ Pedro de Rojas, Conde de Mora, fol. 2 vols., Mad. 1654-63 ; ‘ Los Reyes Nuevos de Toledo/ Christobal Loranzo, 4to., Mad. 1764; ‘ Esp. Sag.’ v. vi. ; Ponz, ‘ Viage/ i. ; ‘ Toledo en la mano/ Sisto Parro, Toi. 1857, accurate and valuable. There is also a small compendio of this work ; and ‘ Toledo Pintoresca/ J ose Amador de los Rios, Mad. 1845 ; ‘ Album Artis- tico de Toledo/ Manual Assas, is valuable for the accurate translations from the Arabic by P. de Gayangos. observe in Toledo; one peculiarity is the arrangement of the house portals, the soffits, projecting door-posts, lintels, and cannon-ball ornaments. Inquire for and visit a dilapidated Moorish house, now a carpenter’s shop, in the Calle de las Tornerias, near the church San Cristobal. Visit el Taller del Moro, now degraded to a work- shop, where Ambron, the Moorish go- vernor of Huesca, invited the refractory chiefs of Toledo to dinner, and, as each arrived, cut off their heads, to the tune of 400. Visit the Casa de Mesa, oppo- site the Ch. of San Roman, and obs. the room there which has been kept in a perfect state of preservation since the time of the Moors. § 17. Sword Manufactory. The once celebrated fabrica de arma?, or manufactory of Toledan swords, is placed on the rt. bank of the Tagus about one mile S.W. of the city, not crossing the bridge ; the view of Toledo from the doorway is fine. It is shown to visitors; it is, however, hardly worth a visit, for it takes up a great deal of time. The huge rectangular un- sightly building was raised for Charles III. by Sabatini in 1788, and is well provided with forges, &c. The chapel is dedicated to Santa Barbara, the pa- troness of cannons. All the armas blanccis for the army of Spain are made here : the choicest Toledan blades are of a fine temper and polish, and are so elastic, that they are sometimes packed up in boxes curled up like the main- spring of a watch, or “ compassed," as Fal staff says, ‘‘like a good Bilboa, in the circumference of a peck, hilt to point, heel to head.' ’ Many fine works of art have been made at the Fabrica, and small objects of inlaid ironwork may be bought there. Visitors who do not go there will, however, find a great choice at a shop in the Cuatro Calles. The owner, Don Mariano Alvarez, is an artist of great merit. The manufactory of artistic silks at Toledo for church vestments constituted one of the greatest industries in Spain. Only one remains, belonging to S r . Molero, established at the beginning Tlie Castiles. Boute 4a. — Madrid to Aranjuez. 123 of the 18th century. The silks woven with gold made there are very fine ; some specimens exist at the South Kensington Museum. As Toledo was the capital of the S. frontier of Spain, it was well defended against the Moors by mediaeval for- tresses. The hilly lines of the Montes de Toledo, Sierra del Duque, &c., with the moat rivers of the Tagus and Guadiana, formed noble sites for defence. These wild and picturesque scenes, which never have been properly investigated, well deserve notice from the artist and antiquarian. Among the chief castles are those of Montalban and Torrijos. § 18. Excursions. A horseback excursion can be made from Toledo to the village of Guada- mur (7 m.), where is a very compact castle on a small scale, but externally well preserved, with bartizan angular turrets to the keep. The ruined rooms have some Gothic inscriptions. The arms of the Counts of Fuen-Salida, over the entrance, indicate Pedro Lope de Ayala, the first count and favourite of Enrique IV. Not far from Guadamur were found in 1858 the Visigothic gold votive crowns now to be seen at the Hotel de Oluny and Armeria at Madrid. The castles of Almcnaeid and Orgaz may be conveniently visited by rail, Kte. 70; take a local guide, and attend to the provend ; the former lies to the S.E., on the road to Madri- ds j os, and is about 9 m. from Toledo. (For Toledo to Talavera de la Beina by Cabanas, see Bte. 12.) BOUTE 4a. MADRID TO ARANJUEZ. Bailway to Aranjuez in 1| hr. ; 4 trains daily. — To Toledo in 3 hrs. ; 2 trains daily. The route, as far as Aranjuez, is described in Bte. 123. 30 m. Aranjuez. Inns: Fonda del Infante; Fonda de Milaneses. Many persons stop here in going to or re- turning from Toledo. Toledo travel- lers must make an arrangement if they intend to stay at these hotels, as they are apt to overcharge. Pop. 8155. Carriages may be procured at the station on the arrival of the trains. Fares, 16 reals the first hour, 14 reals the second, 10 r. the course. It is, how- ever, advisable to settle the terms beforehand. This royal domain, with its elms, oaks, water-brooks, gardens, and sing- ing-birds, is indeed a verdurous oasis in the midst of the treeless, waterless Castiles. N.B. — To see the palace and gardens, and the Casa del Labrador, an esquela should be procured either at Madrid, or of the Administrador del Beal sitio in Aranjuez. Aranjuez is placed at the confluence of the rivers Tagus and Jarama. Several wealthy and noble families have built villas in the neighbourhood : the Marquis of Miraflores, Marquis of Salamanca, &c. Aranjuez — ara Jovis — was origi- nally, in the 14tli centy., the summer residence of Lorenzo Suarez de Figue- roa, Maestre de Santiago. It became a royal property when the mastership was merged in the crown under Ferdi- nand and Isabella. Charles V., in 1536, made it a shooting- villa, and Philip II. employed Herrera to construct ad- ditional buildings. Much, however, was burnt by a fire, and more taken down by Philip Y., who rebuilt a por- 124 Sect. I. Route 4a. — Aranjuez : General Vieiv. tion a la Frangaise , leaving Charles III., Charles IV., and Ferdinand VII. to finish it. The palace is placed near the Tagus, at the Madrid end of the village. A bald Plaza de San Antonio, a sort of French Place du Carrousel, with a corrector and iron railing, affords space for dust and glare. The interior of the palace contains some indifferent pictures, and fresco ceilings by Jordan, Mengs, Maella, the poor Conrado Bayeu, and others. There are, how- ever, three interesting pictures by Bosch (Jerome van Aeken), a painter of the beginning of the 16th century, almost unknown out of Spain. They represent fantastic subjects and alle- gories in the style of Brueghel, which were much praised by the authors of his time. China fanciers should par- ticularly examine the porcelain gabi - nete , fitted up by Charles III., with the finest specimens known of Buen Retiro porcelain. The walls of this room are entirely covered with large plaques of porcelain, representing in high relief groups of Japanese figures ; they are beautifully paiuted and mo- delled. The looking-glasses, made at La Granja, add to the effect. The frames are composed of fruits and flowers. The artist who painted and modelled this room was Joseph Gricci, 1763, who was one of the artists brought over by Charles III. of Naples, when he established at Madrid in 1759 the fabric of Buen Retiro which existed previously at Capo de Monte. Tfiis porcelain is marked with the Fleur de Lis in colours, or gold : look also at the room in imitation of Las Dos Hermanas of the Alhambra. The mirrors and marqueterie of this palace are fine. The look-out on the gardens over th e parterre, the Jardines del Principe y de la Isla, with its shady avenues of oriental planes and cascades, is charm- ing. Here, in spring, all the nightin- gales of Spain seem collected : and how sweet is “ the melodious noise of birds among the spreading branches, and the pleasing fall of water running, violently.” The gardener will take the visitor round the lions of the Isla ; one of the fountains was painted by Velazquez, but is not now to be re- cognised : the others are fine, and play on great holidays and royal birthdays. The best objects to observe are the Puerta del Sol, the Fountain of the Swan, la Cascada , Labyrinth, Swiss mountain, Neptune, Ceres, Bacchus, and the Tritons. The elms brought from England by Philip II. grow mag- nificently under this combined heat and moisture. They were the first introduced, says Evelyn, into Spain, where from their rareness they are as much admired as palm-trees are by us. One of them is shown, a gigantic tree, some 90 feet in girth. The Casa del Labrador, or labourer’s cottage, is another plaything of that silly monarch Charles IV. This cot - tage is richly fitted up with china, marbles, tapestries, and platina-inlaid walls and doors. The walls of the back staircase are painted with scenes and subjects illustrating the costume, &c., at the time of Charles IV. The large saloon is painted by Maella. Obs. the malachite chair and table, a present from Prince Demidoff to the ex-Queen of Spain, Isabella. The chairs in the different rooms are worth notice. In one of these rooms there is an interest- ing collection of 20 ancient marble busts of Greek philosophers, brought hither by Charles III.* The Florera, or Jardin Ingles, was laid out by Richard Wall, an Irish- man. It was at Aranjuez, March 19, 1808, that Charles IV., in order to protect his wife’s minion Godoy, abdicated in favour of Ferdinand VII. Godoy, a vile tool of Buonaparte’s, was thus saved to consummate his guilt by signing the transfer of Spain to France. The royal breeding establishments near Aranjuez, like those near Cor- dova, were almost destroyed by the invaders, but restored by Ferdinand * An entertaining account of Aranjuez during the reigns of Charles III. and IV. will be found in the 1st vol. of ‘ Lord Auckland’s Memoirs.’ The Castiles. Boute 5. — Tarancon. 125 VII. Visit the stables ; there are some fine Padres y Garaiiones for breeding from mares and asses; the females are allowed to wander at liberty over a district of great extent. This establishment was renewed in 1876 : English sires, dams, and grooms were then introduced. Aranjuez has a Plaza de Toros, and a tolerable theatre. On a hill to the 1. (going to Ocana) is a pond, here called, as usual, the sea — el mar de Ontigola. Ely. in construction from Aranjuez by Tarancon to Cuenca. The rly. from Aranjuez to Toledo leaves the main line at 9J m. Castillejo Junct. Stat. ; thence a branch line to Toledo (2 trains daily in 1J hr.). Travellers who wish to go to the South from Toledo change carriages here ; but it is preferable to start from Madrid (see 4 Indicador ’). 7J m. Algodor Stat. EOUTE 5. MADRID TO CUENCA, BY TARANCON, 85 m. Eailway in construction by Aranjuez and Tarancon to Cuenca, open 1882 as far as Tarancon. Meanwhile diligence from Madrid daily. The following are the Railway sta- tions. The line will be continued eventually to Valencia. Aranjuez Stat. Pop. 8155. Ete. 4a. 4J m. Ontigola Stat. Pop. 546. 2J m. Ocana Stat. Pop. 4898. 2j m. Noblejas Stat. Pop. 2162. 5J m. Villarrubia Stat. Pop. 2722. 3J m. Santa Cruz Stat. Pop. 2225. 2 m. Tarancon Stat. Pop. 4464. Diligences from Madrid every other day by Guadalajara, 13 hours. For route by rail to Guadalajara, see Ete. 149. The accommodation at Cuenca poor. N.B. The sportsman or artist may also go round by the Banos del Sitio Real de Isabel, and thence make, with his rod, gun, or brushes, over the wild mountains to Cuenca. The diligence-road leaves Madrid by the Atocha gate, and passes through Vallecas (Pop. 3124) to 10 m. Vacia Madrid. Eailway in construction to Arganda. Soon after- wards the Jarama is crossed a little above its junction with the Manza- nares. The dreary character of the vicinity of Madrid begins to diminish near 3J m. Arganda (Pop. 3022), with its suspension-bridge, olives, vines, and corn-fields ; the excellent red wine made here is much drunk in the ca- pital, where it passes for Valdepefias. 7 m. Perales (Pop. 1512) lies in a rich valley watered by the Tajuna, which, coming from the Sierra de Selorio, joins the Henares. Crossing it we enter 6f m. Villarejo de Sal vanes (Pop. 3020), with a fine ruined castle; the Gothic paiish church contains some pictures by Pedro Orrente. 7 m. Fuenteduena de Tajo (Pop. 1094). Here the Tajo is crossed in a boat. The fine suspension-bridge was destroyed, at General Prim’s suggestion, in 1866. At the right is a Moorish castle. Another monotonous track, with here and there some of Don Quijote’s windmills, leads to Tarancon. 10 m. Tarancon, where the Parador de las Diligencias is very bad: Pop. 4464. It is situated in a plain on the bank of the Rianzares. This town is . one of some traffic, being in the middle of many cross communications. 126 Route 5. — Cuenca . Sect. I. The W. facade of the fine parish Church retains its ancient and minute Gothic ornaments, but the N. was modernised into the Ionic order in the time of Philip II. Queen Cristina built her- self a fine palace here soon after her marriage with Munoz, who was made Duke of Rianzares. Railway in construction to Cuenca. [About 7 m. from Tarancon is situ- ated the little town of Ucles (Pop. 1095), which lies amid gardens and Alamedcis watered by the Bedija. A carriage may be hired at Tarancon for this excursion. On a hill above towers the enormous magnificent Convent , once belonging to the order of Santiago, of which Ucles was the first encomia enda , and the abbot was mitred ; it was founded in 1174, on the site of a Moorish alcazar , of which la torrc ATbarrana was preserved in the new edifice. It commands a superb view. The E. facade is built in the Berruguete style, the N. and W. in the classical, the S. in bad Churrigueresque. The chapel was raised in 1600, in the simple Herrera style. Ucles is a fatal site in all Spanish annals, for here, in 1100, Sancho, the son of Alonso VI., was de- feated and killed by the infidel, where- by his father’s heart was broken ; see the affecting account in Mariana (x. 5) ; the fatal spot is still called Sicuendes , from the seven counts killed there. This building is now in the hands of the Jesuits, who have established a school there, and put the convent and church into first-rate order. At Cabeza del Griego (6 m. from Ucles) are some neglected Roman re- mains, the supposed site of ancient cities.*] Quitting Tarancon, the elevated table- land, varied, however, by undu- lations with swamps in the hollows, continues to 21 m. Horcajada, a true hanging place, with a fine stone bridge of 3 arches over the river Gigiiela. Now the hills are covered with pines and oaks, and we ascend a jpuerto or pass over the * For details, with plans, see ‘ Mem. Acad* His.’ iii. 170 ; and ‘ Esp. Sag.’ xlii, 332, highest ridge, from whence the waters descend E. and W. Crossing the Jucar, after passing Albaladejito the country becomes picturesque ; and after threading a planted defile, rock-built scrambling Cuenca is entered by its ancient bridge. 20| m. Cuenca, Concha , lies indeed a hill-girt shell, and is the capital of its mountainous district, being itself about 3400 ft. above the level of the sea. § 1. Inns, Situation, &c 126 $ 2. Historical .Notice 3 27 $ 3. Walk round the Town .... 127 $ 4. Cathedral 128 § 5. Bishop’s Palace ; Old Houses . . 131 $ 6. Excursions 132 § 1. Inns : Calle de Cordon eros, toler- able, good food; Casa de Huespedes del Platero, bad. Pascual de la Cruz, Carreteria 63 ; the owner keeps a little tartana which may be hired for excur- sions. Pop. 7851. Cuenca, one of the most picturesque cities in Spain, rivals Ronda and To- ledo in natural beauty ; the site is most romantic, the artistical objects numer- ous ; the fishing, botany, and geology well deserving notice. The Spaniards will endeavour to dissuade travellers from going to this “ tumbledown me- diaeval unmodernised city,” — aqui no hay nada , — no tiene nada digno de verse; let not any of our readers be thus misled, but set forth on this most interesting tour. The chains to the N.E. are continua- tions of the Cantabrian range, which serpentines through Spain by Burgos, Oca, Moncayo, Molina de Aragon, and Albarracin. The fine forests called los pinares de Cuenca are proverbial, and rival those of Soria. Squirrels, ardillas , are very abundant here. The scenery in these immemorial woods and rocks is Salvator-Rosa-like, while the lakes and streams contain trout, and the hills abound in botany and geology, yet to be properly investi- gated. These localities, in the 15th and 16th centuries, were densely peopled with busy rich traders in its staple, wool ; The Castiles. 127 Boute 5. — History , General View. now, it is so poverty stricken, that scarcely 300 souls to the square league are to be numbered. The mountains, Montes Orospedani, were the fastnesses of the brave Celtiberians, who waged a desperate guerilla contest against the Romans. The town was once cele- brated for its splendid silver work, and the family of the Becerriles were here what the Arfes were to Leon. Alonso and Francisco Becerril both lived at Cuenca early in 1500, and by them was exquisitely wrought the once glorious custodia, in 1528-46, and de- scribed at length by Ponz, iii. 73; which, with other splendid crosses, chalices, &c., were plundered by Cau- laincourt. Cuenca is romantically situated on a peak called San Cristobal, about half- way between Madrid and Valencia, on the confluence of the Jucar and Huecar, and between the heights Ma- jestad and el Socorro.* § 2. Historical Notice. Cuenca is purely Moorish, and like Ronda, Alhama, and Alarcon, is built on a river-isolated rock. It was given in 1106 by Ben Abet, king of Seville, as part of the portion of Zaida his daughter, when she became the wife of Alonso VI. The inhabitants, however, rebelled at the transfer, and the city was retaken by Alonso VIII., Sept. 26, 1177. The campaign is detailed by Mariana (xi. 14), who records how Alonso VIII. was in want of every- thing at the critical moment ; the site of his camp of starvation is still shown at Fuentes del Rey. See also the ballad 4 En esa Ciudad de Burgos ’ (Duran, iv. 207). The town was captured at last by a stratagem, devised by a Christian slave inside, one Martin Alhaja, who led out his Moorish master’s merinos as if to pasture, but then gave them to his hungry countrymen. These wolves * For details, consult ‘ Poliencomio de Cuenca,’ Petrus de Solera Reynoso, 4to., Cuenca, 1624; and ‘ La Historia/ Juan Pablo Martir Rizo, foil.. Mad., 1620, a curious volume, which also con- tains portraits of the Mendozcis, long its gover- nors ; refer also to ‘Hechos de Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza/ Chr. Suarez de Figueroa, 4to., Mad., 1613. ‘ Hist, de la Ciudad de Cuenca,’ Don Trefon Munoz, Cuenca, 1866-7. having eaten the animals, put on their fleeces, and were taken back on all fours, being let into Cuenca by a small still-existing postern in the walls : from this strange flock sprang most of the hidalgo families of Cuenca, e.g. the Albornoz, Alarcon, Cabrera, Carrillo, Salazar, &c. Cuenca, once celebrated alike for arts, literature, and manufactories, now only retains its picturesque position ; the beautiful Huecar and Jucar (sucro, the sweet waters, aguas didoes') still come down through defiles spanned with bridges, and planted with charm- ing walks, mills, and poplars, placed there for the artist ; above topples the pyramidical eagle’s-nest town, with its old walls and towers, and houses hang- ing over the precipices and barren rocks, which enhance the charm of the fertile valleys, the Hoces, below. From the suburb the town rises in terraces, as it were, tier above tier, roof above roof, up to the Plaza and the cathedral, which occupy almost the only level space, for the streets are steep, tor- tuous, and narrow. §3. Walk round the Town. Fully to appreciate the beauty of Cuenca the following tour may be taken. Proceed to the bridge of San Anton, which crosses the pretty Jucar at the western end of the town. De- scend to the path which passes under one of the arches, and then keep along up the rt. bank of the river ; just below the bridge is a ruined weir, by which the waters were once dammed up, in order to fill the stream as it passed under the cliff on which the town stands. The colour of the water is beautifully clear, with a slight greenish tint. Passing the copse of poplars and white-leaved aspens, above on the rt. rises rock-built Cuenca. Continue the walk on to the bridge Las Escalas, which crosses the Jucar at the other end of the town, and sketch it if you will, for it consists only of timber- beams, laid upon stone piers ; but, be- fore going over it, ascend further up the rt. bank, look back on the town and into the valley. Next cross the 128 Route 5. — Cuenca: Cathedral . Sect. I. bridge, and ascend a zigzag pathway cut in the rock to the little alamecla , which looks like a shelf squeezed in at the angle of the town ; from thence is a striking view of the valley ; continue along the pathway that leads to the summit of the ridge at the end of which the town is built ; cross the table- ground until you look down upon the valley of the Huecar ; about a quarter of a mile from Cuenca some steps cut in the rock lead down to a spring or streamlet which finds its way down the slopes by a devious course into the Huecar ; thus irrigating numerous gar- dens filled with fine vegetables and fruit-trees, and feeding the creepers which mantle luxuriantly the crags and stones. The pathway which leads down to the bottom of the happy Ras- selas valley runs just beyond a tank where picturesque washerwomen con- gregate, forming artistic groups and colours. The Huecar is but a brook, from being so much drained off to water the gardens on the low ground near it. As we descend, obs. the beautiful views of the bridge and convent of San Pablo, perched on a precipice, with the surrounding cliffs, rocks, and moun- tains ; keeping a path which conducts to the level of the Bridge, cross it to the church of the now-ruined Domi- nican monastery : this viaduct, worthy of the Romans, which rivals in height and solidity the arches of Merida, Al- cantara, and Segovia, rises 150 ft., 350 ft. long, connecting the broken riscos or rocks. It is reared on colossal piers, and was built in 1523 for the convenience of the monks by Francisco de Luna, at the cost of the Canon Juan de Pozo. Allowed to get out of repair, it has been most bunglingly mended: examine the E. face of the pier nearest the city ; the modem parapet, negligently built within its original position, is considered here a very proper restoration ; thus only mules and foot-passengers can pass where two carriages could formerly, and, what is worse, the approaching de- cay of the whole bridge is accelerated. The fa 9 ade of San Pablo has unfor- tunately been modernised with a most absurd portal. The retablo of the high altar is composed of the richest jaspers ; the order is Corinthian. The figures of 3 monks are placed between the pillars in the divisions. The interior of the church is simple’; two bold semi- circular arches from each side of the nave, each recess containing a chapel : the groining of the roof is good ; the stones are pointed or marked by yellows and gilding. Returning over the bridge and as- cending into the town you soon reach the plaza and Cathedral. § 4. Cathedral. The Cathedral was founded in 1178 by Alonso VIII., who removed to this new bishopric the ancient sees of Valera and Arcos : it was consecrated by the prelate Don Rodrigo Ximenez de Rada. The style of the edifice is simple and severe Gothic with a semi- circular E. termination. The facade fronting the Plaza was modernised in 1664-9 by a blunderer named Jose Arroyo, according to the order of the blundering chapter, which once was very rich in cash, although miserably poor in good taste. These Goths also painted the interior yellow , picked out with black ; white at least would have been more appropriate, in imitation of the cathedral at Siena, and in compliment to Diego de Mendoza, a Cuencan, who then ruled so long in that city, and who now is buried in this cathedral. Of his great family was Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza, fourth Marquis of Canete, the hero of the Araucanian war, which forms the subject of the Epic of Spain by Ercilla.* Look especially at the fine painted windows and the circular sweep. The apsis behind the high altar is very striking, and the mazes of columns intersect each other quite orientally, recalling the Mezquita of Cordova ; the arches, semi-Moorish and semi- Gothic, spring from a bold cornice, which projects beyond the heads of the lower columns. The ornate semi- * See ‘ Los Heclios,’ &c., by Suarez de Figue- roa, 4to., Mad., 1613. The Castiles. Route 5 .— Cuenca : Cathedral . 129 A. Capilla Mayor. B. Altar de San Julian. C. Coro. D. Chapel of San Julian. E. Chapel of Nuestra Senora del Sagrario. F. Sacristy. G . Sala Capitular. H. Chapel of Santiago. I. Chapel of Nuestra Senora del Socorro. J. Chapel of Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion. L. Chapel of Caballeros. M. Chapel of the Santo Cristo. R. Fine Renaissance doorway leading to the Cloisters. Moorish arch which forms the entrance to the high altar springs from corbels, or, to speak more correctly, from ex- crescences of the capitals ; and a similar oriental form is preserved in the arches at the W. end of the cathedral, but they are turned from the heads of the piers in the common plan of Gothic construction. The coro (see plan, 0), placed as usual in the centre, was unfortunately modernised and spoilt by Bishop Florez, of whose vile period are the organs and jasper pulpit ; the splendid reja , however, and the eagle lectern, or facistol , are of the olden [Spain, 1882.] Cuenca Cathedral. time, and are masterpieces of Her- nando de Arenas, 1557. The original retablo was removed in the last century in order to make place for the present high altar, which is indeed as line as jaspers can make it ; although clas- sical in style, it is stamped with the academical commonplace of its de- signer, Yentura Rodriguez, ob. 1785. The statue of the Virgin was sculp- tured in Genoa; the trasparente , or heavy pile at the back of the altar (B), the boast of Cuenca, where it is pre- ferred to the fine old cinquecento art, is dedicated to San Julian, once Bishop K 130 Houle 5. — Cuenca: Cathedral . Sect. I. of Cuenca, who, with San Onorato, is f the honoured tutelar of this city. The jaspers are very rich and the bronze capitals costly; the green columns were brought from the Barranco de San Juan at Granada, the urna, with the statues of Faith, Hope, and Charity, were wrought at Carrara, in 1758, by Francisco Vergara, a Valen- cian settled in Italy. The cost of transport from Alicante was enormous ; but they are academical commonplace inanities, without life, soul, or senti- ment. As Cuenca is placed in a jasper district, the Cathedral is naturally adorned with this costly material : all the chapels deserve notice ; look par- ticularly at the artesonado roof in the long, low Capilla honda del Espi- ritu Santo, behind the high altar, and nearly opposite the trasparente ( B) ; it is the finest in Spain. Beginning, therefore, from the W. door at the third chapel to the rt., obs. the portal and reja of the glorious Capilla de los Apostoles, which is built in rich plateresques, with a Gothic-ribbed ceiling of a most beautiful stone from the neighbouring quarries of Arcos. Passing the classical retablo, obs. a smaller altar of the time of Philip II., with a much venerated image of la Virgen de la Salud. Advancing near the gate to the bishop’s palace is the Capilla de San Martin, with a good altar and carvings, and four remark- able sepulchres of the early prelates, Juan Fanez, a descendant of the Fidus Achates of the Cid, and those of Lopez, Pedro Lorenzo, and Garcia. The plateresque Portal or entrance into the cloisters (R) rises 28 ft. high, and was wrought in Arcos stone by Xamete in 1546-50, and, as is in- scribed on labels, at the cost of the Bishop Sebastian Ramirez, ob. 1536 : see his tomb. Some suppose this Xamete to have been a Moor, inferring so from the name Xamete — Achmed : at all events he must have studied in the Cellini school of Italy, and ranks as a rival of Berruguete and Damian Forment. This arch is a thing of the age when the revived arts of paganism wrestled with Christianity even in the churches : here we have saints and j l harpies, lions, virgins, tritons, vases, flowers, allegorical virtues, &c., all jumbled together, but forming in the aggregate a whole of great richness and cinquecento effect : all, alas ! has been sadly mutilated and whitewashed. It must once have been superb. The architect will remark a peculiar con- struction of arch ; the fluted columns of support rest on brackets let into the wall, the lower portion of the orna- mental work much injured. The Cloisters are in a different style, having been built in 1577-83, by Juan Andrea Rodi, with the fine stone from the neighbouring quarries of la Hoz. The simple Doric of Herrera was then in vogue, which contrasts with the pseudo-classical frieze at the E. end, the work of another hand and period. Obs. the Burial-chapel of the Men- dozas, in form a Greek cross with a cupola, while the Corinthian high altar is adorned with paintings and sculpture, the monuments enriched with jaspers and arched niches being ranged around : obs. that with marble columns, of Dona Ines, and that of Diego Hurtado, viceroy of Siena, ob. 1566. From the cloisters you may ascend to the Secretaria ; the view from the muralla of the cathedral is charming. Xext visit la Capilla de Nuestra Senora del Sagrario (E), with its superb jaspers, and obs. the miraculous image which aided Alonso in his victories. The exquisite facade to the Sala Capi- tular (G) is worthy of Xamete ; notice, in this gem of the cathedral, an arch of the richest plateresque, which displays a marvellous power and variety of in- vention. The admirable walnut doors, carved with St. Peter, St. Paul, and Adoration of the Kings, are attributed to Berruguete, but the Transfigura- tion is by an inferior hand ; they are in good preservation ; the walnut sil- leria is also excellent. The chapel of San Juan (D) was founded by the Canon Juan de Bar- reda, and has a fine Corinthian reja , with cherubs and armorial shields. The Capilla de Santa Elena, oppo- I site the trasparentc, has a beautiful The Castries. 131 Route 5.— Bishop’s Palace . portal and good walnut retdblo. On the left side of the cathedral is the shabby little chapel of San Juan Bau- tista, with paintings in the retdblo by Cristobal Garcia Salmeron, who, born in 1603, became pupil of Orrente, and adopted Bassano's style, especially in his Nativity, the Baptist preaching, and in our Saviour mocked, above it. Obs. the reja in the chapel of the Munoz family. The Capilla de los Caballeros (L), so called from the tombs of the Albornoz family, although it somewhat encumbers the body of the cathedral, is very remarkable ; the door is such as becomes the entrance of a chamber of death, being ornamented with a celebrated stone skeleton ; read the inscription, Sacellum militum , &c. The reja is excellent, so likewise are the two windows at the E. end, which are richly painted and decorated with armorial blazons. The pictures in the retablo, of the date 1526, were given by the Prothonotary Gomez Carrillo de Albornoz, who had lived long in Italy; they are painted in panel by Hernando Yanez, an able artist, whose works are very rare in Spain ; he is said to have been a pupil of Raphael, but his style is more Flo- rentine than Roman. The chapel, however, is dark, and the pictures blackened by smoke ; obs. the Cruci- fixion; the Adoration of Kings — the Mother and Child are quite Raphael- esque. Among the many grand se- pulchres notice that of the great Cardinal Gil Carrillo Albornoz, and friend of the gallant Alonso XI., whose Life has been written by Bal- tazar Parreno, ‘ Historia de los Hechos’ &c., 8vo., Tol., 1566, and also by Juan Gines de Sepulveda, 4to., Bolonia, 1612. Observe also the tomb of his mother, Teresa de Luna, and the fine military figure to the 1. of the high altar. There are other works by Xa- mete in the chapels of San Fabian, San Sebastian, San Mateo, and San Lorenzo, § 5, Bishop’s Palace ; Old Houses. Near the cathedral in the Bishop’s Palace, with a portal of mixed Gothic, j and a fine saloon inside called from the tutelar de San Julian, which, with the rest of the house, the invaders pil- laged completely. Many of the oldest parish churches are built on the walls, aud thereby add to their irregular and picturesque etfect. The interiors have for the most part been sadly modern- ised by the once rich clergy, who tor- tured their fine woods into Churri- gueresque and gilt gingerbread. The tombs of the Montemayors are now in the old parish church of Santa Maria ; one is dated 1462, another in the pla- teresque taste of 1523 is enriched with the recumbent figure of Don Juan in sacerdotal costume. In the church of San Juan Bautista, now pulled down, was the tomb of Pedro Inca, the last descendant of the Peruvian kings who died at Cuenca. The curious old Casas Solares, or family mansions of the Conquistador es 9 are now desolate, and their armorials remain over the portals like hatch- ments of the dead: the interiors were gutted by the French. Many of these houses are picturesquely built over the declivities, such as the Alcazar of the Mendozas , which towers over the Ju- car : obs. the houses of the Priego and Carrillo families, and some others in the Calle de Correduria. The now un- used mint was built in 1664 by Jose de Arroyo. The Franciscan convent was erected in the 12th centy. by the Templars. The position of the Carme- litas Desealzas hanging over rock and river is fine, so also is that of San Pedro de Alcantara, which is placed near the Jucar outside the town. Cuenca was once remarkable for its colleges, printing-presses, manufac- tories, arts, sciences, and industry, all of which was so utterly swept away by the invaders as to make the historian Toreno (xx.) wonder how a nation so civilised and humane could select for destruction the works of Spanish piety and learning. There is a good Instituto Provincial, established in a modern building near the bridge of Trinidad. The ex- cellent laboratories were destroyed by the Carlists in July 1874. This un- fortunate town suffered to a great K 2 132 Route 5 . — Cuenca : Excursions. Sect. I. extent during the last Carlist war. On the 17th March, 1873, the Carlists surrounded the town, and after a struggle which lasted 7 hours, they left, after carrying away 69,000 dollars from the bank and principal inha- bitants. In February 1874, they robbed in the province 50,000Z. The town, which in the mean time had fortified itself, was besieged by the Carlist army, commanded by Don Car- los’s brother, Don Alfonso, and his wife Da. Blanca. On July 3, 1874, by the help of a double treason, they entered the town in the upper and lower part, and committed every atrocity. They burnt the archives, and Da. Blanca urged the troops on to sack the town. Cuenca, in its good old times, pro- duced great men of varied excellence. Among her worthies may be named Mendoza and Gil Albornoz, generals and prelates ; the artists Becerril, Xa- mete, Yanez, and Mora, the best pupil of Herrera. Here were born Figueroa, the poet, and Alonso de Ojeda, the friend of Columbus; and last, not least, Lope de Barrientos.* The city bears for arms, “ gules, a sacramental chalice, with a star of eight rays argent.’ , § 6. Excuesions. Excursions around Cuenca. Sports- men who venture into the wild hills should take a local guide and attend to the provend. Excursions are numerous and full of attraction for the geologist, lover of lakes, angler, and sportsman : nowhere is the deer-stalker more likely to pick up a stag or two than in the woods about Yal de Cabras, which he may make his head- quarters : there is no yposada , but he can be lodged at a pri- vate house at the end of the town. If there is venison in the neighbourhood, he will be sure to fall in with some in the mountains near the Nacimiento del Tajo, about 17 m. off: he may make his rough head-quarters at Poyatos, near the river Escabas : attend to the provend. At Buenache, 7 m., in its * Consult * Biografias de Cuenquences Ilus- tres, ’ Fernin Caballero, Madrid, 1870. pine-clad valley, is the singular Cueva del Judio ; and at Ballesteros, 7 m. south of Cuenca, is a black loch, called la Laguna Negra, which is said to have a subterranean communication with that of Fuentes, some cattle drowned in one having reappeared in the other. Another lake called el Pozo Airon, distant 3J m. from Al- marcha, is said to be bottomless. There a Don Buesso, according to legend, threw in 24 of his mistresses stark naked, one of whom pulled him in after her. These wal ers nevertheless have in them neither fish nor mermaids. Yisit the stalactite cave called la Cueva de Pedro Cotillas (taking torches), which lies about 10 m. up the delicious valley of the Huecar, near La Cierva, where fine violet jaspers are found. The waters of the Huecar possess a peculiarly fertilising quality, as its garden fringes evince. The wdiole route to Palomera, 7 m., in its valley is ever verdurous from perennial foun- tains , by which Cuenca is well supplied with water ; they were set in action by an excellent hydraulist in 1538, named Juan Yelez. The Fuente del Frayle, near Palomera, is more worthy of an Egeria than a friar. The mills on these streams, the pines and rocks covered with wild flowers, are truly picturesque. 6 m. from Cuenca is the extraordinary natural phenomenon of La ciudad Encantada — it is well worth a visit, hut by no means go without a guide. Over a large track of land the waters, con- taining large quantities of lime dis- solved by the carbonic acid which they carry, deposit this upon the hori- zontal strata, and have thereby produced the most wonderful and fantastic effects of ruined palaces and every variety of natural forms. For further detail con- sult ‘ Bofcella on Cuenca,’ 4 Boletin Soc. Geografica/ and local histories. The botanist and angler will also ascend the Jucar, although the fish al-e shy from eternal poaching. The valley soon widens and becomes quite Swiss-like; about a mile up are the Fuentes del Bey, where Alonso was encamped: above this, a clear trout- stream waters the plain, having issued The Castiles, Route 6 . — Cuenca to Valencia . 133 from its mountain-sources. 7 m. on is the Val de Cabras, famous for pines, which are floated down the Tagus to Aranjuez in order to supply Madrid with building timber. At Buenache the purple jaspers vie with those of yellow and purple, which are found at the Hoya de Machado, 9 m. S.E. of Cuenca, where visit the Cueva del Judio. The Pinus Halepensis , called Alvar by the woodmen, is very abundant. 5 J m. higher up is Una, 17 m. from Cuenca, with its laguna , or lake, which, being preserved, is well stocked with trout ; on it is a movable island. Near here are some coal mines, one of which is of a fine jet or azabache. ROUTE G, CUENCA TO VALENCIA, BY M1NGLANILLA. A railway is in course of construc- tion, which will unite Cuenca with Valencia. There is no diligence ser- vice at present, but a tartana may be hired or the road ridden. This excur- sion is full of interest to the artist, angler, and geologist. As horses and mules are not easily procured at Cuenca, secure them as soon as possible. There is a short cut to Minglanilla ; it runs over bad roads through pine- woods by Campillo (Pop. 3400), 39 m., where there are two tolerable posadas (those who find this too long a day’s ride, may sleep the first night at Almo- dovar del Pinar (Pop. 834), 26 m.); from Campillo de Altobuey to Mingla- nilla it is 10 J m. The longer ride is, however, the more picturesque, and it passes through Alarcon, which no artist or archeolo- gist ought to miss. By this route you ford the Rio Moscas before reaching Valera, a see under the Goths (Pop. 1094) ; it has a ruined castle and some degraded antiquities : at Buenache its cave may be visited. Here the dili- gence may be tahen to V alencia. Thence to Alarcon. Posada tolerable. Pop. about 832. This most picturesque and truly Moorish city is named, some say from Alaricon, the city of Alaric the Goth. The city is built like a miniature Toledo, on a craggy penin- sula, hemmed around by the Jucar: it can only be entered from a narrow neck of land to the E., which has been likened to the handle of a frying-pan, a comparison more apposite than ele- gant. The land approach is still guarded by ruined Moorish towers and an Alcazar ; the crumbling walls, gates, and bridges, the steep ascent into the town, with the gardens, water-mills, defiles, and river below, offer choice bits for the artist. This once im- portant town contains five noble parish churches, whose richness con- trasts with the present poverty. Santa Maria has a facade of the time of Charles V., with. a Gothic interior. The San Juan has a Doric front, and has or had a splendid custodia, made by Christobel Becerril, 1575. The fa- $ade of the Trinidad is ornamented with arms and scroll-work of the best time of F erdinand and Isabel, but the inside has been modernized : Santiago has an ancient portal with the mounted tutelar : in Santo Domingo de Silos is a good classical high altar. Alarcon was taken from the Moors in 1177 by Fernan Martinez Zevallos, whose de- scendants hence bore the title of Se- nores de Alarcon ; and it was to Hernando, one of them, that Francis I. was delivered in charge after the defeat at Pavia. His Commentaries, ‘ Los Hechos ,’ &c., fol. Mad. 1665, with a fine portrait, are truly chivalrous and interesting. This city, in July 1195, was the scene of such a tre- mendous battle between the Moors and Alonso VIII. of Castile, that the year became a date among the former* Amu-l-Alarh. Villanueva de la Jara is placed, as 134 Sect. I. Route 6. — Minglanilla. its name implies, in a region of cistus. Iniesta (broom) indicates on its slope a similar botanical position ; indeed these desolate districts are covered with rich aromatic underwood, in which the bee and ferae naturae, delight and mul- tiply. The parroquia at Iniesta is fine; the portico and Doric facade of the Casa del Ayuntamiento is good. Pop. 3500. 7 m. E. is a sanctuary of the Virgin of Consolation , in a sweet spot, much visited by pilgrims every Sept ember 21st. Minglanilla : Posada del Sol.. Pop. about 2193. The salt-mine lies N.E. from the village, in the bottom of a deep dell in the hills, and is rather a quarry of salt than a mine, for the mineral is a pure deposit : it may be compared on a smaller scale to the salt- mines at Wieliczka, near Cracow,* or at Metzkaya Zastchita, near Orenburg, in Russia. It seems to be inexhaust- ible ; the working affords occupation to the neighbourhood. A permission to visit the place is readily granted. The walk in and out will take an hour, or at least 20 minutes each way: you must calculate on 2J or 3 hours for the whole excursion. It is worth while to pay for some torches, as, when lighted up, the subter- ranean galleries sparkle like Alad- din’s cavern of jewels, and by placing them in different spots the extent of the shaft is best perceived : you de- scend by a staircase some 300 feet, leading to the most interesting parts of the mine. The works are now carried on in a regular and scientific manner ; large halls have been formed which resemble lofty crypts, with roofs rising in pointed arches; the sides are cut into massive square piers, between which open arches lead into other aisles : the effect is that of a darkened cathe- dral. Many vast halls are being formed in the solid salt by knocking away the floors of the galleries above, and thus throwing the two stories into one ; the usual level is about 300 feet from the surface, but there are galleries much below that, although not worked now. The mine has been excavated since * See Murray’s Handbook for & Germany. the time of the Romans, whose shafts were narrow, and by no means so economical or well ventilated as the present system of hollowing out spa- cious openings. The salt is as hard as rock, insomuch that a beam inserted horizontally into their walls to the depth of 6 inches would support almost any weight. It is cut with pickaxes and with difficulty : when in block it seems almost black in colour, and only appears white where water, having perforated through the roof, forms stalactites. It is exceedingly pure: very small quantities of prussiate of copper are occasionally found in it. The salt lies in one enormous block, and not in scattered strata as at Hal- lein. The mine is usually worked during 3 months, December, January, and February ; the miners during the rest of the year find a livelihood by agricultural employment ; they are paid by piece-work, about one cuarto the arroba. The average annual quantity is about 50,000 fanegas, but it merely goes to supply the demands of the neighbourhood, from the want of roads and means of transport. There is a large storehouse near Minglanilla. On quitting the village the road crosses over the wild Contreras ridges amid most picturesque rocks and moun- tains into a wooded game country, and so on to 24 in. TJtiel (Pop. 8067), which is entered by a fine avenue of trees. The road then to 7 m. Requena. Posada tolerable. Pop. 13,419. This ancient city occu- pies an almost impregnable position, and is situated near the river Oleana. Obs. the tower of the Ch. of San Sal- vador. Soon after leaving Requena, the road enters the rocky mountainous district called las Cabriilas, which separates the province of Valencia from Castile. 24 in. Chiva. Pop. 4226. This city, placed in the centre of a fertile district, is built at the foot of a hill crowned by an old castle. 15 m. Mistala. Pop. 1203. The road now enters the Huerta of Va- lencia. 2 m. Valencia (see Rte. 123). The Castiles. Boute 7 . — Cuenca to Madrid. 135 EOUTE 7. CUENCA TO MADRID, BY SACEDON. There is a good carriage-road from Sacedonto Guadalajara, from thence by railt o Madrid ; but the mountain portion of this route is a wild bridle-road, and it can only be travelled on horseback, and almost without accommodation; take, therefore, a guide, and attend to the provend. 25 m. Tragacete (Pop. about 910), the only halting-place for the first night, lies below an eminence in a valley girt with hills, and watered by the Jucar, which rises near it: here are found rock crystals. The next day’s ride plunges into the gnarled and tangled sierras of Albar- racin and Molina de Aragon ; crossing the Cerro de San Felipe at Fuente Gar- cia, which is their nucleus, the Tagus rises in its snow-girt cradle from a small fountain, el pie izquierdo : the situation is romantic. The valley is hemmed in with the mountains and the Muela de San Juan, or the jaw of St. John, on the heights of which snow remains for eight months of the year. The Tagus flows W., whilst on the opposite ridge rises the Cabriel, a tributary of the Jucar, both excellent trout-streams. These central mountain alembics fur- nish many other rivers besides the Tagus. The Turia, or Guadalaviar, Wada-l-dbyadh , “ the white river,” rises in the Muela de San Juan and flows to Valencia ; the Mesa, a fine trout-stream, rises opposite in the Fuentes de Jarava and flows into Molina de Aragon, and then into the Tagus. (Among other good fishing rivers is the Escabas, which rises in the Cerro Canales, near Tragacete, and flows by Priego to join the Gua- diela). The evidences of volcanic action are everywhere manifest, for many lakes are formed out of previous craters, such as those of Barbagada, Mintrosa, Cabdete, and Valmoro. Leaving Tragacete, cross the Cerro de San Felipe into the broken country and pine-woods of 16 m. Checa (Pop. 1686), prettily situated on the Cabrilla. The old ruin, the Castil-Griegos, on its hill- peak, and rocky country, is worth sketching and exploring; thence to Tremedal, which lies to the rt. near Orihuela, long famous for its pilgrim shrine and heaven-descended image. The French, under Henriod, sacked Orihuela, Nov. 25, 1809, and blew up the sanctuary, but the image was con- cealed by a peasant, and after the destroyers retired, was brought back in pomp (Toreno x.). 8 m. Peralejos de las Truchas (Pop. 736), a name which makes the trout- fisher’s mouth water, is a good halting- place. Now we enter the mineral- water dis- trict. When at Eeteta visit la Cueva de los Griegos, whose dripping waters have a petrifying quality ; at Los Eaiios de So sal is a warm ferruginous rose-tinted spring, with a fountain of sweet water, which issues from under- neath the hermitage of this Virgin of the rosebush.* The waters have been analysed. 9 m. Beteta — Arabice “ Splendid ” — (Pop. 522) on its hill where it cannot be hid, still preserves portions of its Moorish walls and alcazar. The chief baths are at Solan de Cabras. The best bath, which has been patronised by royalty, is dedicated to San Joaquin. The locality is oval in form and in- closed by pine-clad hills and watered by the Cuervo, a good trout-stream and tributary to the Guadiela. The mineral spring rises under the hill Bebollar. Early in the 16th centy. some shepherds observed their goats dipping themselves when afflicted with cutaneous complaints, and, by follow- ing their beasts’ example, discovered the secret. The bathing season is from June 15th to September 15th, when the waters are used both internally and externally : their taste is subacid, with * See ‘ Noticias,’ 4to., Domingo Garcia Fer- nandez, Mad., 1787. 136 Route 8. — Cuenca to Teruel . Sect. I. a mean heat of 17° above zero, Reau- mur. They are slightly unctuous to the touch, and contain petroleum and hydro-chlorates of soda and magnesia, combined with carbonic acid gas. (From these baths there is a road to Madrid ; they may also be approached from Cuenca; in the summer a dili- gence goes daily to Sacedon.) 13 m. Priego. Here there is a large and tolerable posada. Pop. 1982. This place is beautifully situated on an eminence above the trout-stream Escabas, near which are also many montes y dehesas that abound with stags and game, especially the district near the truly sequestered Desierto, a convent founded by Charles III. Seated at the foot of the Sierra, this town combines the productions of hill and plain, and is a good quarter for the artist and sportsman. The bread, mutton, and wines are excellent and cheap. Priego has a ruined castle, an old Gothic church, and a new one begun by Miguel Lopez, with a rustic belfry in the Brunelleschi style. Near it the beautiful Trabaque flows into the Guadiela, when the united clear sea^green waters wind into the Tagus through red sandstone rocks, with charming artistical bridges and mills. After passing decayed Alcocer, the country alters in character, and we quit the basin of the Guadiela, and strike across to 18J m. Sacedon (Pop. 1869) ; it is placed in a picturesque hill-girt valley on the clear Tagus, with a well-built imposing church. The warm baths, the ancient Thermida, are much fre- quented in the season from June to September. The mineralogy in the vicinity is highly interesting. The traveller can here take the dili- gence to Guadalajara, and thence rail to Madrid (see Rtes. 149 and 2). ROUTE 8. CUENCA TO TERUEL. 64 J 111. Attend to the provend, and take a local guide, for the country is wild, and the roads rough and intricate, but they lead into districts the joy of the sportsman and geologist. This coun- try, a portion of the Idubedan chain, is of a truly alpine character ; the roads are rough and wild, the pine-forests tangled, the fossils and petrifactions infinite. It is the mountain alembic or source of many rivers. 5 m. Buenache de la Sierra. Pop. 248. 10 J m. Beamud. Pop. 583. 10 m. Tragacete. Pop. 1411. Near this village the Muela. de San Juan, the highest peak of these mountains, rises some 5280 ft. (see Rte. 7). 11 m. Erias. Pop. 674. 10 1 m. Albarracin. Pop. 2168. This city of Aben Razin is a wild mountain town, built, with its cathedral, beneath an eminence on which the older city stood, as its walls and ruins denote. . The broken Barranco of the Guadala- viar is picturesque ; here the winter’s snows and cold are severe. The pine- woods provide fuel for numerous ferre- rias or smithies, in which the abundant iron-ores are as rudely smelted as in the days of the Celtiberians. The air is scented far and wide with the perfume of wild flowers. The honey is delicious, and Moya, with the hills near the Gabriel, are the Hymettus of Spain ; from hence probably came the met excellente hispanicum, which is lauded by Petr. Arbiter. 17J m. Teruel, situated in Aragon, is the chief town of its province. Fonda de las Diligencias, in the Paseo del Ovalo, indifferent ; Casino, in the Casa de Marsilla. Pop. 9482. Seen from The Casfciles. Route 8. — Teruel. 137 afar, with its old walls, gates, and Aragonese towers, the city has an imposing look ; it rises above its well- wooded Vega on the Turia, which is here joined by the Alfambra, a river fertile in fossils, and both are good fishing-streams. The interior of the town is solid and gloomy. The Cathe- dral, raised to a see in 1577, is dark and much disfigured by stucco and Churrigueresque. The Corinthian stalls in the choir are good, and still better is the cinquecento retablo , a noble work by Gabriel Yoli, a French sculp- tor, who flourished here about 1538. Obs. also the portal and columns of the splendid Capilla de la Epifania ; to the rt. of the transept is a picture of the eleven thousand Virgins, by An- tonio Bisquert, 1628, a rare Valencian artist, by whom is a retablo in the Capilla de los Reyes. The reja del coro is fine ; look also at the two fine Cus- todias, especially the one in the form of a temple. In the sacristy, among other fine things, obs. a statue of a Magdalen of silver. In the Sala Capitular there is a curious mummified bust of the Anti- Pope Sanchez Munoz, which is kept in a glass case. The bishop's palace has a grand patio, although the upper corredor offends from having more pillars than the under ones, which thus are placed on crowns of the arches. In the Parroquia de San Pedro is a fine retablo , of the natural colour of the wood, by Yola, with pictures of the tutelars, San Joaquin and Santa Te- resa, by Bisquert. All those whose hearts have ever been touched by the tender flame of love should visit the cloisters, in which are preserved the remains of the “ lovers of Terne!,” so familiar to readers of Spanish plays. The names of these Peninsular Heloisa and Abelard were Isabel de Segura and Juan Diego Martinez de Marcilia. They died in 1217, and their skeletons, the grand lions of Teruel, were brought here in 1708.* In the Ch. of Santiago is a retablo and dead Christ by Bisquert, who * See « Los Amantes de Teruel,' by Perez de Montalban; ditto Juan Yaque de Salas, 8vo., Val., 1616 ; and drama by Juan Eugenio Hart- zenbuscb. evidently formed his eclectic style on Ribalta, the Carraccis, and Sebastian del Piombo : Bisquert died in 1646 from grief that Francisco Ximenez should have been chosen instead of himself to paint the “ Adoration of the Kings,” in the cathedral. His works are very rare, scarcely known in Spain, and absolutely unknown out of it. The San Salvador contains a miracu- lous image, el Gristo de las tres memos , and a huge skeleton, much stared at by the natives. The former Colegio de Jesuitas, now the Seminario Auxiliar, is a fine build- ing. Look carefully at the aqueduct, los Arcos de Teruel, which is worthy of the Romans in form, intention, and solidity. It was raised in 1555-60 by a most skilful French architect named Pierres Bedel. The antiquarian should notice the Moorish watch-tower San Martin, near the gate Andaquilla, and the other tower called the Fondeadera, both decorated with tiles, to the N. of the city. Teruel bears for arms its river, a bull {Toro, Teruel), and a star, and 2 cannons above it. Diligences daily to Valencia, Siguenza, and on alternate days to Zaragoza. Railway projected to Zaragoza. We are now in the centre of the vol- cano-disturbed district. At Caudete andConcud, 3 m. distance, are some of the largest bone deposits in Europe. The bones are found in every possible state, fossil and otherwise, and it has been conjectured, from the number of human remains, that some great battle must have been fought here : the Cueva Rubia, a Kirkdale on a large scale deserves particular investigation. 138 Sect. I. Boute 9 . — Teruel to Calatayud. ROUTE 9. TERUEL TO CALATAYUD, BY DAROCA. This was the old Roman road from Tarragona to Bilbilis, and that taken by Martial (x. 104): nor are matters much changed, as you may “ perhaps ” (forsitan, as he says) be able to do the same distance in a coche in the same time that he did. After crossing the bone and fossil district, the road follows the Jiloca, which rises near Celia, a hamlet, whose parroquia contains an excellent pla- tesque retablo. The road then con- tinues through Torremocha and Villa- franca de Campo to 34 m. Monreal (Pop. 2028). It was founded in 1120 by Alonso I. of Ara- gon, as a check upon Baroca, which he did not take from the Moors until two years after. 22 m. Baroca. Fonda de la Aurora, Parador de las Diligencias. Diligences daily from Zaragoza to Teruel. Pop. 3221. The name Dar-Auca indicates more clearly that it was once the Douar or residence of the tribe of Auca , than, as some say, of a Roman family of that name ; now it is the chief place of the fertile basin of the Jiloca, and of a district abounding in corn and wine. The position is very fine, placed in a hill-girt valley, around which arise eminences defended by Gothic walls, old castles, and crene- lated towers ; these follow the irregular declivities, and command charming views. The gates are most picturesque. The Puerta Raja is covered with glazed tiles, imbrex, green, yellow, and blue. The upper part was decorated with three vases of pottery of the same colours, which were pulled down and broken by the Carlists, with most of the upper part of the doorway, in 1874. This gateway is flanked by two turrets of the 14th centy . Baroca, lying as it were in a funnel, is much liable to inundation : hence a tunnel has been cut, by which an outlet is afforded to the swollen waters ; the passage, when dry, is used also as a road. This work of truly Roman anti- quity and magnificence was executed in 1560 by Pierres Bedel, the same able Frenchman who raised the Teruel aqueduct. The tunnel is 2340 ft. long, 24 ft. wide, and 24 ft. high. Visit the Colegiata. It was built by Juan II. of Aragon, who died in 1479, and wa s altered in 1587 by Juan Marron, who wrought the Corinthian portal and the bas-relief of the Misterio. The tower of this fine ch. is older, it was raised in 1441 by the Queen of Alonso V. The chapel, in which the relics of the Santos Corporales are guarded, has a cinquecento retablo. Over the high altar there is a retablo, with black marble Salomonic columns, and an Ascension of the Virgin, sculptured in 1 682 by Francisco Franco. The Puerta del Perdon, the primitive door of the ch., has a sculptured relief of the 13th centy. Ask to see in the Colegiata the stand for a Custodia, made in the form of a triptych, in silver, ena- melled with the arms of Aragon. It is believed to have been a gift of Jaime I. 13th centy. In the sacristy there are some good early German pictures. Daroca has several other parish churches. In that of San Juan there are excellent paintings on panel. In that of Santo Domingo, several silver crosses and good early paintings. The parish church of San Pedro was pulled down in 1854. One of its fine Moorish wooden doorways, 14th centy., has been deposited in the Archaeological Museum at Madrid. Visit Santiago, whose facade is handsome, while inside is a picture of the battle of Clavijo, by Ambrosio Plano, a native artist. In the tower of the ch. were contained in iron closets the archives of the municipality of Daroca. These and other ancient documents are now de- posited in the Archivo Historico at Madrid. Notice the Greco-Romano fountain opposite the Trinidad, with The Castiles. Route 10 . — Teruel to Valencia . 189 20 jets of water, which flow night and day. The botanist in these parts will find a wide and hitherto almost unin- vestigated field ; the fruit is excellent, especially the pears called per a pan and cuero de dama , and the camuesa apple. Baroca bears for arms“ six Hostias .” It assumed these bearings in lieu of its former distinction, six geese, the canting Ocas; and it asserts in its motto — non fecit taliter in omni orbe — that this miracle is the only one and singular.* Those who are pressed for time may leave out Baroca altogether, by turn- ing off at Lechago. South of Baroca, in the plain of Bello and by the road-side, is its brackish lake la Gallocanta, near which barilla, saxifrage, and other salitrose plants abound. The waters of this lake Gallocanta rose Sept. 11, 1854, and overflowed the causeway and walls of Daroca ; the tunnel proved insufficient ; the country below was devastated, and the fountain of San Pedro carried away. Beyond it lies Villar del Saz, where there are iron-mines which furnish for Calatayud a mineral of immemorial celebrity. Those who do not wish to go to Calatayud may cut across 48 m. by Carineila (Pop. 2920), in whose cereal campo the fine wines el ojo de gallo and bianco imperial are grown, which form the usual beverages of Zaragoza. A rly. is planned from Cariiiena to Zaragoza. Molina de Aragon lies 30 m. S.W. of Baroca. Pop. 3008. It is the capital of its Senorio , or Lordship, conquered in 1129 by Alonso el batallador , and incorporated with the Castilian crown by the marriage of the heiress Maria * The reader who wishes for all the au- thentic details of the legend must consult ‘ La Historia de los Corporales/ Gaspur Miguel de la Cueva, 8vo., Alcala, 1553. The tale soon went into a second edition, 8vo., Zaragoza, 1590 ; see also ‘ Historia del Divino Mysterio,’ Diego Dormer, duo., Zaragoza, 1635 ; ‘ Disertacion Historica,’ Dr. Gil Lissa y Guevara, 4to., Zara- goza, 1690 ; ‘ Historia,’ Man. Ortigas, 4to., Za- ragoza, 1645 ; the * JEtasgo ’ of Moya, p. 113 ; ‘ Coronica de Espafia,’ Beuther, Valencia, 1604, ii. 42. with Sanclio el Bravo in 1293, and the king is entitled the Senor. The city lies with a S. aspect on a castle- crowned slope over the Gallo, an ex- cellent trout-stream, and is protected by its ancient walls and Alcazar from the N. winds. Near the city are hydro- sulphuric mineral baths. Calatayud. (See Rte. 149.) ROUTE 10. TEEUEL TO VALENCIA, BY SEGOKBE. 80 m. Diligences daily to Murviedro, thence rly. to Valencia. 10| m. Valverde (Pop. 277) is placed on a chilly eminence. The Ionic portal to the parroquia is of the date 1591. 8J m. Sarrion. Pop. 2493. Here is a mineral fountain, called la Eseale- rueia. Crossing the rugged Javalambre chain, leaving the Pena Golosa to the 1., is Alventoso on its rocky tvindMovm knoll, placed over a dip well watered by the confluents of the Mijares ; thence over a wild, rough country we enter the province of Valencia at Barracas, whose hills, as well as those of La Pina, abound in game. Soon descending into the pleasant fertile Huertas of Gerica, cold Aragon is exchanged for genial Valencia. 22 m. Gerica (Jericho), Pop. 3084, with a ruined castle, is placed under a slope on the banks of the Palancia, which is here crossed by a good bridge, built in 1570 by Juan de Muhatones, bishop of Segorbe. Many Roman in- scriptions are found in this district. 140 Route 12 . — Madrid to Talavera . Sect. I. The parroquia has an elaborate stone portal. 7 m. Segorbe. Pop. 8022. Segorbe, considered to have been the Segobriga Edentanorum, rises in its valley above the Palancia, surrounded by gardens, which, under a beneficial climate and copious irrigation, are incredibly fertile. The view from the rocky pinnacle above the town is charming. Segorbe was taken from the Moors by Don Jaime in 1245.* The edifice is not remarkable, but has a Betablo of the Joanes school and a good cloister. Parts of the ancient castle and walls were taken down to build the Casa de Misericordia. The limpid Fuente de la Esperanza, near the Geronomite con- vent, gushes at once a river from the rock ; the water has a petrifying power. San Martin de las Monjas has a Doric facade ; inside is the tomb of the founder, Pedro de Casanova ; inquire for the fine Ribalta, the Descent of Christ into Hades. In the Seminario is the tomb of the founder, Pedro Mi- ralles; his effigy kneels on a sarco- phagus, on which some of the events of his life are sculptured. Remains of Roman walls and cisterns are pre- served; and some Doric pillars are let into the house of the Duke of Medina- celi. Near the town is the suppressed Carthusian convent of Yal de Cristo, with its picturesque paper-mills. 7 m. Torres Torres. Pop. 777. 7 m. Murviedro Stat. Inn: Posada de San Joaquin. Pop. 6208 (see Rte. 107 for the rly. route to Valencia). 18 m. Valencia Stat. (see Rte. 101). * There is a history of the cathedral, antigiie - dades, &c., by Francisco de Villa grassa, 4to., Valencia, 1661. ROUTE 12. MADRID TO TALAVERA DE LA REINA. Stat. at Atocha. 2 trains daily in 6 hours. 27 m. For description of route to Cabanas, see (Rte. 74) Madrid to Caceres and Portugal. Visitors wishing to go to Toledo from Talavera may leave Cabanas by dili- gence daily, which meets the trains to Madrid. 3 m. Cabanas Stat. Pop. 525. 3 m. Bargas Stat. Pop. 3638. 5 ra. Villamiel Stat. Pop. 562. 3J m. Eielves Stat. Pop. 376. 3£ m. Torrijos Stat. Pop. 3206. In the parish cli. are two interesting plate- resque doorways. In the palace of Altamira, built by the Duke of Ma- queda, there are 4 fine saloons, decor- ated with arabesque work and fine ceilings. 6 m. Santa Olalla Stat. Pop. 1653. 3 m. Erustes Stat. Pop. 203. 4 m. Ilian Cebolla Stat. Pop. 2112. A fine palace of the Duke of Alba is near the village. 3 m. Monte Aragon Stat. Pop. 658. 8 m. Talavera de la Reina Stat. Inn : Posada de las Pijorras, — bad. Pop. 9666. This once flourishing, but now decayed city — Tala-Briga — is charm- ingly situated upon the river Tagus, in the midst of a verdurous vega. Re- mains (the oldest of which are Roman) exist of a triple circumvallation ; the Torres Albarranas were built (937) by the Moors. Obs. the arch of San Pedro, and the irregular Plaza, with red houses, porticos, and balconies. The Ch. of Santa Maria la Mayor is a Gothic edifice with three naves but without architectural merit. Obs. the fine, but dilapidated bridge, built in the 15th centy. by Cardinal Mendoza. The city possesses pleasant Alamedas, whose groves are tenanted by nightin- The Castiles. 141 Boate 12 .. — Battle of Talavera. gales ; the favourite Paseo is along the Madrid road, leading to Nuestra Senora del Prado, a hermitage built upon the ruins of a Pagan temple, and where pagan rites were celebrated down to the year 1807. These curious rites were called las Mondas de Talavera : they were presided over by a sort of Chief Magistrate, chosen for the day, and called El Justicia de Mogiganga (president of the images). The rites were akin to the Helston May “ Furry ” of Cornwall. Visit the Convent of the Dominicos, which contains the three grand tombs of Cardinal Loaisa, Pedro Loaisa, and Catalina his wife. The noble Geroni- mite convent near the river, begun by Archbishop Pedro Tenorio in 1389 and altered in 1549 and 1624, is now turned into a manufactory ; the staircase and Ionic fa9ade deserve notice. Talavera has produced Mariana, the historian, and Alonso de Herrera, the writer upon agricultural subjects. The battle of Talavera de la Beina was fought on the 27th and 28th of July, 1809, on the hill to the left of the town and on the Madrid road. The great Duke justly called it “ the long and hard-fought action against the French , with more than double our num- ber s.” The French were commanded by Jourdan, Victor, and Joseph in person. The Spanish army was commanded by Cuesta, a brave man personally, but a mere “ child in the art of war/’ and too old, proud, and obstinate to be taught. Never were the two nations more truly represented than by their respective leaders ; the decrepit formal Don coming in a coach and six, and keeping his ally waiting, when minutes were winged with destinies ; while the other, the very personification of eagle- eyed power, iron in mind and frame, was of lightniog decision. On the 22nd of July, 1809, Welles- ley, marching on Madrid, entered Talavera after his junction with Cuesta’ s Spanish army. Joseph, with 50,000 seasoned French troops, of whom 7000 were cavalry, and 80 guns, was in his front, and determined to at- j tack in spite of his promise to Soult, who commanded 3 army corps, to make no attack till the latter had concen- trated his forces at Placencia, about 100 miles W. of Talavera, in order to cut off Wellesley’s retreat. Between the 22nd and 27th Cuesta had pushed forward towards Toledo, and been forced back. On the 27th the Allied Army was concentrated, their numbers being 53,000 men with 100 guns — only 19,000 and 30 guns being British and German. The first combat took place on the 27th. Wellesley, reconnoitring from the roof of the Casa de Salinas, nar- rowly escaped capture, and the Allies retired to the position they occupied on the 28th. During the ensuing night constant alarms forbade the rest needful for the troops, and the French attack was resumed at daybreak. On the 28th of July the Allies’ line extended from the Tagus, covering Talavera to the heights on the N. Cuesta, whose troops had fled some distance on the 27th, had by this time rallied a small number, who were placed to cover the town. They were strengthened on their left by a field redoubt just to the r. of the road to the Casa de Salinas, but as there were not enough men to man the guns in the redoubt, much of the advantage of the possession of that work was lost to the Allies. Campbell’s Division was next to the Spaniards, then the Guards supported by Mackenzie, then Came- ron’s Brigade and the Germans, and on the heights Donkin’s, Hill’s, and Tisson’s Divisions. An old tower on a hill forming the left extremity of the line affords a good position from which to survey the field of battle. Here Wellesley posted himself on the 27th. To the E. lies the.pl ain on which the French were bivouacked, the Casa de Salinas being a prominent object in its centre. To the N. is the difficult ground over which a remarkable charge was made against the French r. On the hill on the further side of the stream a French battery was posted to sweep the Allies’ front, and | to guard the French r. 142 Sect. I. Route 12 . — Rattle of Talavera, The French attacked principally the English 1., attempting to gain Don- kin's hill. Wellesley therefore moved some cavalry and Spanish infantry to the N. of it. The French attacks were persistent and severe, bnt were re- pulsed each time. A council of war was then summoned in the French camp, and the attacks being suspended, the troops had some rest in the hottest part of the day, and at the stream which divided their positions the Eng- lish and French soldiers, laying aside their arms, met, during this interval in the battle, to quench their thirst. At noon the attack was resumed : a fearful onslaught was made against the English r. Campbell, however, repelling the enemy, captured 10 of his guns, and assisted by some Spanish cavalry, completely routed him in that part of the field. In the meantime a heavy attack against the English 1. caused Wellesley to order the cavalry to the front. The ground here is much intersected, the German cavalry in the first line was pulled up at a ravine, but the English in the second line galloping on, fell into it and lost many men : the survivors, remounting and pushing across, dashed against the French infantry in the plain beyond, overthrew them and attacked the cavalry in rear. On the arrival of the French reserve cavalry they withdrew, but their gallant charge had served its purpose of checking the attack on the British 1. During these attacks on the r. and 1., Lapisse, assisted by the battery on the French r., attacked the British centre, but was driven back by the Guards. Lapisse brought up his re- serves, and in turn drove back the British in awful confusion. The key of the allied position seemed lost when, obedient to Wellesley's personal orders, Donellan led up the 48th Regiment, and wheeling back his companies to allow the disordered masses of the Guards to pass through, formed line again and poured a murderous fire into the French flank. The Guards, rally- ing, returned to the attack. Broken by the fire of the 48th and the artil- lery, the French were completely re- pulsed, and the Allies’ cavalry dashing against them, rolled back the whole line. Even at this stage the arrival of the French reserves might have saved the day, for our men were exhausted by their exertions and want of food. They did not, however, arrive, and by 6 p.m. the last shot was fired against the slowly retreating French. In the two days* fighting the British alone lost 6200 officers and men, and the French 7200 and 17 guns. The Allies bivouacked on the field, and in the course of the 29th Gen. R. Crau- furd arrived with the Light Division (43rd, 52nd, and 95th Regiments) after an extraordinary forced march from Calcada, viz. 40 miles in 26 hours, each soldier carrying from 50 lb. to 601b., and the period of the year being that of great heat. Spanish fugitives meeting Craufurd had told him that the English were in full re- treat, but pushing on, he crossed the field of the Allies’ victory, and took up outpost duty immediately. In recog- nition of this victory Sir A. Wellesley was raised to the peerage and received a pension of 2000L a year. They alone did the deed, “ for the Spanish army,” wrote the Duke (Disp., Aug. 25, 1809), “ with very trifling exceptions , was not engaged, yet whole corps threw away their arms, and ran off in my presence, when they were neither attached nor threatened with an attach , hut frightened, I believe, by their own fire” “ When these das- tardly soldiers run away they plunder everything they meet, and in their flight from Talavera they plundered the baggage of the British army, which was at that time bravely engaged in their cause.” — E. D. C. From Talavera to Portugal (see Rte. 74). The Castiles. Route 13 . — Avila to Plasencia . 143 ROUTE 13. A VILA TO PLASENCIA, BY BEJAR. 91 HI. Leaving Avila the river Adajali is crossed, and the Sierra de Avila range of hills are left to the 1. 10J m. Munogalindo. Pop. 561. 10 J m. Villatero. Pop. 765. Soon after" leaving this hamlet, the road enters the defile of the Puerto de Vil- latoro. At the summit of this pass is Casas del Puerto, with a Pop. of 198. 13J m. Piedrahita. Inn : Posada de Calacera. Pleasantly situated in a very picturesque neighbourhood. Obs. ruins of the palace of the Duke of Alva. Pop. 2115. The road now traverses the smiling valley of La Corneja to 3J m. San Bartolome. Pop. 567. 7 m. Puente del Congosto. Pop. 661. Here the road crosses a stone bridge. The villages of Santibanez de Bejar (Pop. 1626) and Yallegera (Pop. 370), situated amongst the mountains of the Sierra de Bejar, are now passed, and farther on the hamlets of Navacarros and Palomares: the scenery around is bold and wild, and quite alpine in character. 13 m. Bejar. Pop. 12,761. Inn : Parador de Medina. The river Cuerpo del Hombre fertilizes the environs. The Alcazar of the duque is a feudal edifice of striking appearance : obs. its classical patio, its fountain, and the fine views from the top. It was gutted by the French under Soult, when the pictures and fine collection of armour dis- appeared. Near Bejar a battle was fought, Feb. 20, 1813, between the English under Lord Hill and the French commanded by Foy, in which the latter were routed. The inhabit- ants of Bejar, commanded by the Polish Colonel Fouky, made a gallant resist- ance to the royalist forces during the revolution of September 1868. A con- siderable trade in cloth is here carried on ; nearly 200 different establish- ments employ 5000 hands in its manu- facture, and the town is gaining daily in importance. From Bejar there is a diligence daily to Plasencia. Railway to Salamanca in construction. 7 m. Banos. Pop. 1482. This beau- tifully-situated town, so called from its hot sulphur-springs, is much fre- quented during the season. Decent lodgings are to be found near the baths, and four tolerable Posadas are open during the season. The sides of the river Ambros are laid out in pretty walks. Obs. the fine belfry of the ch. of Santa Maria; its tower deviates from the perpendicular. The wines grown in thiis neighbourhood are ex- cellent. Leaving Banos the ancient Roman road — La Plata — is crossed. Remains of its pavement and abandoned bridges may everywhere be traced. The road now descends into the picturesque valley of Ambroz. 7 m. Aldea Nueva del C amino, Pop. 1421. Obs. the numerous gar- dens in the neighbourhood. 11m. Villar de Plasencia. Pop. 627. 11 m. Plasencia. Pop. 6404. Inn : Posada de las tres Puertas. (See Rte 75.) 144 'Route 15 . — Salamanca to Zamora . Sect. I. ROUTE 15. SALAMANCA TO ZAMORA. 42 Eng. m. Diligence daily, road excellent. This journey can also be made by rail from Medina del Campo (see Route 18) ; sleeping at the Station Buffet. The railroad from Medina del Campo to Zamora (2 trains daily, 55 m.) takes 4f hrs., and passes by the following stations (see Route 19 and “ Indicador ”) : — A. Medina del Campo Stat. Pop. 5123 (Rte. 1). 7 m. Villaverde Stat. Pop. 840. 1| m. Nava del Rey Stat. Pop. 5986. 7 m. Yenta de Polios Stat. 7 m. Castronuno Stat. Pop. 2424. 6J m. San Roman Stat. Pop. 1057. 7 m. Toro Stat. Pop. 7761. 7J m. Coreses Stat. Pop. 1222. 7| m. Zamora Stat. Pop. 14,229. The road by the diligence passes through B. Salamanca (Rte. 18). 4J m. Aldeaseca. Pop. 273. 4J m. Calzada de Valdunciel. Pop. 760. The road follows the line of the ancient Roman way, and runs over a desolate waste of ilex and cistus ; here and there are seen wild hawks of a large size, with greyish-white bodies, and tails and wings tipped with black. 3J m. Huelmos. 2 m. Iscala. This district is much frequented for its excellent shooting ; the side of the gently sloping hill, which stretches away far to the rt. of the road, swarms with rabbits. 10 m. El Cubo. Soon after leaving this little village of 767 Inhab., obs. the ruins to rt. : they are all that now remain of the once superb convent of Valderasa, in which St. Ferdinand was born. 3 m. Pelleas. Obs. near here the traces of the old Roman road La Plata, which formerly traversed Spain from N. to S. The costume of the peasantry here becomes most pictur- esque : it is difficult to distinguish the men from the women, for both sexes wear the same peculiar cloak, which extends almost to the ankles, and their Montercts (or head-coverings) are the same ; they also both wear gaiters, and a kind of mocassin, ornamented with a raw horse-hide fringe. 4J m. Corrales. Pop. 1914. 6 j m. Morales. Pop. 1447. To the 1. is the hermitage of el Crist o de Morales. The ancient wall-girt city of Zamora is now seen grandly rising over the Duero. The long, embattled line of its fortifications terminates with the cathedral to the 1. The fine old bridge with its pointed arches, is crossed, and the zigzag steep ascent is made to the Plaza, in the centre of the town. ZAMORA. Index. Page $ 1. Inns, Cafes. Post Office . . . .144 § 2. Promenades 144 $ 3. Historical Notice 145 $ 4. Cathedral 145 $ 5. Churches 146 $ 6. Walk round the Town. Old Houses . 148 $ 7. Excursions ........ 148 § 1. Inns, Cafes. Post Office. 3J m. Zamora. La Salamanquina , charge 20 rs. per day; Fonda del Comercio. Both bad. Cafe: at the corner of the Plaza Mayor. Post Office : in the Calle de la Rua. § 2. Promenades. El Paseo de San Martin, close to the ch. of la Magdalena, is laid out with rose-bushes; hence, a fine view is obtained, at sunset, of the valley of Tlie Custiles. Route 15. — Zamora . 145 the Duero, whilst the Castle and Cathedral are seen to the 1. and finely relieved against the deep blue sky. The Paseo de San Martin de Abajo is also a pleasant promenade, being situ- ated immediately below the other, but outside the walls : its Fountain is ap- proached by a circular descent of steps. Zamora has been abundantly supplied with water since 1875. § 3. Historical Notice. Zamora (Pop. 14,229) is the see of a bishop, suffragan to Yalladolid. The city bears for arms its bridge, with two towers and a flag. This time- honoured old fortress city is said to have derived its name from the Moorish Samurah , a city of “ tur- quoises,’’ which however it does not signify, and of which it possess none.* In older books it is called Ocellum Duri , the eye, the cup of the Duero (Keli, Hebrew ; calix). Its very name awakes a thousand recollections of mediaeval chivalry and romance, in the days of the glorious past. Placed on the barrier Duero, it was an impor- tant frontier town against Moorish in- vasions. It was recovered from the infidel in 748 by Alonso el Catolico, but again besieged in July, 939, by Abdu-r-rahman, when a desperate battle was fought for its relief by Ramiro II. Zamora was then inclosed by seven lines of walls, and the inter- vening spaces defended by moats; 40,000 Moors are said to have been killed — to a man. Zamora, retaken and destroyed in 985 by the great A1 Mansur, was rebuilt by Ferdinand I., who gave it in 1065 to his daughter, the Doha Urraca, who must not be con- founded with her niece Urraca, the wife of Ramon of Burgundy, and Reinapro- prietaria of Spain. This once common name, which still exists in these parts, is pure Arabic, and means “ brilliant in colours;” hence Mahomet’s mule, on which he ascended to heaven, was called Al Burac. Ferdinand I. by his impolitic device * Samur is the Arabic name of a furred ani- mal, Mustela Scythica, and is the etymon of the Spanish zamarra, jacket. [Spain, 1882.] dismembered a monarchy which his whole life had been spent in consoli- dating, and, like his seventh name- sake, bequeathed a civil war to his heir Saneho,who, resenting the unjust par- tition, besieged Zamora in 1070. Then it w T as “the well-walled city ” (Zamora la bien cercada ), and was proverbially almost impregnable : a Zamora , no se gano en una liora. Sancho, being en- ticed near the walls by Vellido Dolphos (Ataulfo), was assassinated on the 7th Oct. 1072, whilst in an unseemly posi- tion, the Cid, from want of spurs (ac- cording to the old ballad), being unable to catch the traitor. N.B. Every one will read his Romancero on these sites. At this siege five Moorish kings (sheiks) brought the Cid tribute, and saluted him with the title of Cid Cam- peador — the Champion Prince — just as our Wellington was called here “ El Lor ,” exactly as we say “ The Duke.’' § 4. Cathedral. First visit the Cathedral. The Sec, fallen into abeyance during the time of the Moors, was restored by Alonso VI., son of Ferdinand I., whose heiress, Urraca, had married Ramon, brother of Pope Calix tus II. (ob. 1124), and thus, through family interest at Rome, many difficulties with contending pre- lates were got over. Bernard, then Archb. of Toledo, was a Frenchman, and filled the sees of Spain with his countrymen, who introduced Roman- esque architecture, exactly as occurred at Tarragona. Geronimo, the confessor of the Cid, was appointed to Zamora with gimsi-episcopal functions. The cathedral, which is of limited size, was probably completed about 1174; the choir has been rebuilt. The Roman- esque tower at the W. end is an un- usually fine structure. Notice first the S. and dilapidated entrance of the cathedral. Obs. a truncated tower, the four round arches, and. the singular pattern-like rolls of linen, the plain curtains of wall strengthened by buttresses. The capi- tals of the pillars are in the Roman- esque style. The central dome over the crossing is the most interesting feature L 146 Route 15 .- — Zamora : Cathedral . Sect. I. of the cathedral within and without, quite cognate with the cathedral Vieja of Salamanca. The two lateral aisles in the interior are low. The nave piers are very bold in design, and their massiveness is remarkable, as the columns are not less than seven feet across, whilst the clear width of the nave itself is only twenty-three feet. The aisles have very broad massive buttresses. The altar mayor is com- posed of red marble pillars, with gilt bronze capitals ; the Transfiguration sculptured in marble, which forms the retablo, is modern and of inferior art. The coro is dated 1490 : on many of the carved figures may be read their names and quaint Latin inscription, giving an idea of the person they are intended to represent. (They are published in the 11th vol. of the ‘Ec- clesiologist,’ p. 362.) The open Go- thic spire of the bishop’s seat, and the saints and figures above the dark- coloured stalls of the canons, the carved door with figures and Gothic work to the 1. of the high altar, de- serve notice. The metal rejas are of the same age as the stalls ; obs. also the lectern in the centre of the coro ; it is of enormous size ; and two pulpits of iron. There is an interesting pic- ture on panel behind the coro, which represents the Saviour seated on his throne surrounded by saints and angels : it is a good specimen of Ger- man painting of the 16th centy. On an altar on the Gospel side notice a marble figure of the Virgin with St. John, which shows the great influence of the Italian school of the 16th centy. on the Spanish artists of the time. Among the tombs observe those of Bernardo, the first bishop, 1149, of Bishop Pedro, 1254, confessor of St. Ferdinand, and that of Bishop Suerus Perez, 1286. In the Capilla del Car- denal, obs. the tombs of the Romero family; also notice the very remark- able retablo , parted into six divisions, painted by Fernando Gallegos, at the end of the 15 th centy. (his finest work) ; his signature may be seen in the centre. It represents San Ilde- fonso receiving the chasuble from the Virgin. To the r. the adoration of the relics of Saint Leocadia, to the 1. the discovery of the relics. Above the crucifixion, to the r. the death of St. John, to the 1. the Baptism of Our Lord. Under the retablo are medallions with busts of saints. In one of the medallions the kneeling figure of the Donator. In the figure of Eve in the frame, the German in- fluence is distinctly visible which was so much followed by Gallegos. In the sacristia adjoining this capilla obs. several very curious battle-pieces, and a Virgin and Child. In the Capilla de San Miguel is the tomb of the Canon Francisco M. de Baibas*, 1308. Notice in the Capilla de San Juan, the mag- nificent tomb of the Canon Juan de Grado, the finest and most artistic tomb in the church ; above the elfigy the genealogy of the Blessed Virgin is sculptured ; in the centre of the group are the Virgin and Child ; below the tomb is another Virgin and Child surrounded by angels. The retablo in this chapel deserves notice. The N. entrance to the cathedral has unfor- tunately been modernised in the Co- rinthian style, which ill accords with the primitive elevation. The original cloisters were burnt in 1591 ; they were rebuilt, in simple Boric, in 1621. The silver monstrance, which is Go- thic of the 15th centy., is about 2 yards high, of exquisite workmanship, and one of the finest in Spain. It is pro- bably by Enrique Arfe. It rests on a silver stand made in 1528, and is placed on the high altar the day of Corpus Christi, surrounded by splen- did silver steps. Some fine tapestries are kept in the sacristy, which are hung in the church on great festivals. Ascend the massive W. tower to see the view which is obtained from its belfry. Next obs. the ancient castle which adjoins the cathedral (to the N.) and the bishop’s palace (to the S.), with its corridors and open gallery. Proceed next to § 5. Churches. La Magdalena, a small Romanesque church of the Templars, and at their suppression given to the Order of St. The Castiles. Honte 15. — Churches. 147 Juan of Jerusalem. It is a good edifice of the 12th centy. Obs. the masonry of the exterior ; the deeply-recessed S. entrance, with remarkable circular arches and shafts, highly enriched with the latest and most ornate Ro- manesque work — ( Street ); and the rose-window above, formed with small columns, like that in the Temple Church in London. Notice in the in- terior the curious canopied tombs of 13th-centy. date, supported upon spiral and fluted shafts. Against the N. wall there is a very curious tomb placed under a canopy supported by three shafts, the capitals of which are each carved with a pair of fighting wyverns. The sepulchre itself is plain, carved with a cross ; the effigy of its occupant is carved, as if lying on a bed, out of a bold block of stone, and inserted in the wall; above this is the soul (in the shape of a head with wings) sup- ported by angels. Next visit the Ch. of San Pedro (or San Ildefonso), close by the Magda- lena. Obs., over the modernised N. entrance, the crown and cross-keys of St Peter. The interior is vaulted with one immense span, its originally dis- tinct nave and aisles having (says Dr. Neale) been thrown into one in Flamboyant times. The W. entrance into the nave is arched over with a similar elliptical arch to that in San Esteban at Salamanca : above which is the coro. The altar mayor is arched over some 15 ft. from the ground, to support the recess, in which are placed i the huge bronze-gilt shrines containing the bodies of San Ildefonso and San iUilano. The face of the elliptical arch bears the following inscription, in letters of gold up<>n a blue ground, “Aqui se elevaron los Cuerpos de S. Ildefonso y S. Atilaon, a 26 d. Myo, 1496.” The fittings of the interior of the ch. are in bad taste. In the sac- risty there is a good triptych of the German school, a chalice of the 17th centy., richly decorated with rock crystal ; a silver altar frontal of the 17th centy., with figures of saints. Ask to see the reliquaries, among them there is one shaped like a cross, Go- thic work of the loth centy. Now proceed to the Plaza Mayor, and observe near this picturesque market-place the Oh. of San Juan de la Puerta STueva. Its S. door (now built round with a wooden screen) is said to have been fine. Near the W. door, built up into a wall before it with a small window high up, is a Christ on the cross surrounded by human skulls, arranged at either side of him in cruciform rows. A similar Christ may be seen in an old gate- way that has been built up, leaving a wall and small garden outside the Ch. of St. Esteban. To the E. of the Plaza Mayor is the Ch. of San Vicente ; its tall tower rises above the roof in three stages, and has a fine W. doorway ; in style it is simple, Early Pointed, and pure. The interior of the ch. has been entirely modernised in the worst taste. Next descend nearly to the level of the river and visit the Ch. of St a. Maria de Horta. It is similar to that of La Magdalena ; the light is admitted by small windows in the upper part of the walls, to the S. ; the W. doorway is round-arched and perfectly plain. The square tower is of three stages : in the first stage above the doorway is a window with one light ; in the next there is also a window with one light ; and in the third stage another window with two lights Obs. the retdblo in the Capilla San Sebastian. The central portion is of no great merit, but at the sides are paintings which repre- sent the Prophets of the old, and the Evangelists of the new Dispensation. Obs. also in the Capilla de San Antonio (near the door to the rt.) another retdblo , painted by the same artist. To the W. of this ch. is the Church of San Leonardo. The once fine W. doorway is now entirely ruined by whitewash. To the rt. and 1. are non- descript animals placed on brackets, which are supported upon human heads. In the Ch. of San Andres there is a good sepulchre of the Renaissance period. h 2 148 Route 15. — Zamora : Excursions . Sect. I. § 6. Walk round The Town. Old Houses. Now walk along to the bridge, which is carried across the river Duero on 17 pointed arches ; at either end there is a tall gate-tower. The river is broad and picturesque, and flows away to the W. through a beauti- fully-wooded and undulated valley. The Duero rises in the bleak Sierra de Urbion, near Soria, receiving the affluents of the hills above Logrono and the Moncaya, and flowing W. in a sinuous course of about 500 m. to the Atlantic Ocean. The name Ur, the Celtic Dwr, simply means water. It gave the title of marquis to the Duke, as on its banks he foiled the French. Below Zamora are some wild passes and ferries, used by smugglers : the most remarkable are el Paso de las Estacas (the pass of the stakes), and el Salto de la Burraca (the leap of the great she-ass). From the bridge walk round the city walls, to the 1., and enter by the Puerta de la Feria. Turn to the rt. and obs. the ruined palace of Urraca : her mutilated bust still remains over the gateway, with the inscription (now almost obliterated), “ Afuera ! Afuera ! Rodrigo el sober- bio Castellano taken from the old ballad, and allusive to the Cid’s being shut out of the city when Dolphos, the traitor-assassin, was let in. Return to the Plaza Mayor, and pass along the Calle de San Torcuato to la Plaza de los Momos, where there is a house with a good facade and ajimez windows ; the entrance-doorway is faced with the enormous arch-stones so com- mon in the Spanish houses of the 16th centy. Still continuing along the Calle San Torcuato, notice the Hospital on the 1. with its large overhanging porch, painted in vulgar but effective colours, and having the appearance at first sight of being inlaid with encaustic tiles. Obs. the inscription, “ Est. Hospital Mando Hacer y Fundo Dn Alonso Sotelo Comendadory Caballero de la Orden de Santiago ano 1526/’ To the rt. is the Hospicio, a fine build- ing of the 16th centy. The patio is very interesting. The plateresque tomb of Sotelo, in the Ch. of San Andres, is fine. Further on is the Ch. de la Trinidad, and a little beyond the Puerta San Torcuato, the N. entrance into the city, outside which is the rly. stat. Ascend the city wall from the inside, and walk along it to the 1. to obs. the curious Moorish watchtowers, which crown an elevated stretch of ground to the W. of the city. § 7. Excursions. The naturalist and botanist can make many excursions in the immediate neighbourhood of Zamora ; the bo- tanist should visit la dehesa de San Andres, 3 m., and the geologist go to Muelas, 14 m., in the angle of the con- fluence of the Esla and Duero : here cal- careous stones and crystals are found, curiously formed and marked, and the peculiar clay is considered the finest in the Peninsula for kitchen-ware. It was by this line that the Duke, in May, 1813, by a masterly move to the 1., passed the Duero in the Portuguese frontier, turned the French positions, and pounced on them at Yitoria. He himself crossed the deep foaming river on the 29th, at Miranda, in a basket slung on a rope from rock to rock (Nap. xx. 7). A fine wild country, covered with aromatic underwood, and intersected with trout-streams, inter- venes to Villafranca del Vierzo. Those who can rough it might first visit Carbajales, 14 m. from Zamora, a town belonging to the Duque de Frias. Pop. 1339. The neighbouring la Pena colorada and Monte Valdoradas abound in caza mayor y menor (game of every description) ; take local guides to un- ravel the net-work of trout-streams which come down the fan-like off- shoots of the serpentining Sierra de Culebras, and empty themselves into the Aliste. From Carbajales the sports- man might either strike off W. 12 m. to Alcanices, a small town of 972 In- hab., 28 m. from Zamora, on the confines of Portugal, where there is excellent cover, or he might cut across to Puebla de Sanabria (Pop. 1240), 9 m., The Castiles. Route 16 . — Salamanca to Ciudad Rodrigo. 149 and thence over the Vierzo to Villa- franca (Pop. 495), through some of the best fishing districts in Spain. Toro, with its fine ch., is described in Rte. 19. ROUTE 16. SALAMANCA TO CIUDAD RODRIGO. 56 m. Salamanca (see Rte. 18). The road is bad and uninteresting. The river Tormes is crossed by the fine stone bridge to 2 m. Tejares (Pop. 849). Soon after passing this little hamlet, obs. to the E. the two knolls — the Arapiles — which were the two commanding positions during the famous battle of Salamanca. (See Rte. 14.) 8 m. Calzadilla. 4 m. Calzada de Don Diego. Pop. 507. Situated in a fertile plain. 7 m. Puente de Bobleda. Pep. 1534. Here the small stream of the Bobleda is crossed. 4 m. Boveda de Castro. 3 m. Tejadillo. Pop. 944. 7 m. Boadilla. Pop. 370. The sur- rounding neighbourhood produces large crops of corn, olives, wine, &c. \ m. Puente de San Esteban. Pop. 821. The road to the rt. leads to Zamora, and to the Baths of Ledesma. (See Rte. 14.) 2 m. Martin del Bio. Pop. 607. 10 m. Santi Spiritus. Pop. 723. Situated upou the river de los Gavi- lanes. The road here ascends and traverses the Montes de Carazo, de- scending again to 1J m. Yal de Carpinteros, near which opens the extended plain which is ■Watered by the Bio Agueda, 7 m. Ciudad Bodrigo. Inn : Posada de la Colada. Pop. 6142. This ancient fortress-town rises on a slight eminence above the Agueda, which flows under the walls to the W., and is here inter- sected by small islands. The river is crossed by a long bridge, which leads to Portugal, the frontier of which is about 14 m. distant over the plains. This fortified place although “ weak in itself/’ is, says the Duke, “the best chosen 'position of any frontier town that I have seen.” It is one of the keys of Spain, hence the important part that it , played in the retreats and sieges during the Peninsular war, when its capture, succeeded by that of Ba- dajoz, opened the way to the Duke to deliver Spain. The first siege, undertaken in the spring of 1810 by Massena and Ney, was a gross mistake, as during it the Duke was given time to prepare his lines at Torres Yedras. Although anxious to relieve the place, he refused to risk an action against an enemy “ double his number in infantry, and three times so in cavalry.” Siege 1812. — Napoleon having drafted 60,000 of the best troops away from Spain to fight in Russia, a fresh disposal of the French forces in the Peninsula became necessary. Mar- mont was ordered to take command of the army of the North, fixing his head- quarters at Valladolid, and Soult was to oppose Hill in the S., and if possible drive him back to Lisbon. The changes caused a dispersion of the French troops, and Wellington, in spite of the sickness in his camp, his bad transports, and the severity of the winter, determined at once to attack Ciudad Rodrigo, which had been left on the withdrawal of Marmont to the N. with a small garrison, and the pos- session of which was important to him as a depot for his stores when he should push into Spain. Therefore while Marmont, over-confident on account of the supposed want of siege artillery by the Allies, and little disposed to leave his camp in the cold weather, failed to take the proper precautions, Welling- ton, in the midst of frost and snow, sud- denly crossed the Agueda at Mariabon 150 Sect. I. Route 16 . — Ciudad Rodrigo : Siege . and invested Ciudad Eodrigo on the 7th January. Rodrigo had at the time a double enceinte of two walls parallel to one another, the inner being now a promenade, the outer in 1812 a faussebraye or rough parapet about 12 ft. high, and for outer de- fences earthworks thrown up by the Spaniards in 1810 round the suburbs, and three convents converted into fortified posts by the French. These convents were Santa Cruz on the N.W., San Francisco on the N.E., San Do- mingo on the S.E., each being about 800 yards from the wall. To the N. are two hills, the great and little Tesons On the side of the great Tesons 300 yards from the ramparts, was a lunette constructed by the French, protected by two batteries on the terrace of San Francisco at a distance of 350 yards. The strength of the besieging army w r as 35,000, but the materials were de- fective, and the engineers wanting in experience. The siege train consisted of thirty-eight 24-pdrs., and ammuni- tion was scarce. The besieged garrison numbered 1900, and w~ere provisioned fora month. During the night of the 8th Colborne with 300 men captured the lunette on the great teson, and a parallel was begun on the side of the hill ; breach- ing batteries were also constructed, as Wellington, apprehensive of Marmont’s approach, was anxious to hurry opera- tions. On the night of the 13th Santa Cruz, the fire from which interrupted approach, was captured, and breaching batteries opened. Two guns were turned against San Francisco. A sortie on the 14th delayed operations, but on the 15th Sail Francisco was carried by besiegers, thus allowing approaches to be continued to the little Teson. The great breach was at the extreme N. angle of the ramparts ; but Wellington perceiving that the de- fenders had begun a retrenchment, directed a smaller breach to be made in the walls at a point immediately opposite the crest of the little Teson. Barrie was summoned on the 16th, but declared that he would bury him- self in the mins of the town. On the 19th both breaches wore pronounced practicable, and Wellington issued precise orders for the assault. Picton was to attack the great breach from the right, and Craufurd the little breach from the left, while Pack with the Portuguese should make a false attack from the other side of the river. At 7 p.m. the assault began, Picton’s men rushed forward, and throwing the hay bags which they carried into the ditch, jumped down and escaladed the faussebraye. Twice they advanced against the inner line of defence, mounting the ladders in good order and with great bravery, but each time they met with a repulse. Meanwhile Craufurd, having led his troops forward against the little breach, carried it at the first attempt, and in spite of the criticisms to the eifect that the defenders of the breach did not do their duty, the fighting must have been very severe, for here two generals Craufurd (the impetuous leader of the Light Division) and M‘Kinnon were killed with many of their men. The effect of this success was that the defence of the great breach was given up on the approach of the Light Divi- sion who cleared the ramparts. Pack, whose false attack had become a real one, was now also in the town, and, surrounded on all sides, the French retreated to the Castle square and laid down their arms. — E. T. D. C. After Ciudad Rodrigo was taken, the Duke rode back to Gallegos; he j outstripped his suite, and arrived alone and in the dark. Marmont was so taken back by the rapidity and bril- liancy of this capture, that in his official report he observed, “ There is something so incomprehensible in all this, that until I know more I refrain from any remarks/’ The captor was made an English earl, and the Cortes bestowed on him the rank of Grande , making him duke of his recovered fortress ; and by this title, Duque de Ciudad Bodrigo , Spaniards are fond of calling him. Visit the English position, walking out to the suburb by the Alameda to San Francisco, then to the smaller Teson , now called de Cranford, and then The Castiles. 151 Route 16 . — Ciudad Rodrigo . to the larger Teson, now termed el fuerte de Wellington ; return by Santa Cruz and the Agueda, on whose banks, Oct. 11, 1811, Julian Sanchez, the guerillero , surprised Mons. Reynaud, the governor, while out riding, and carried him off. The Spaniard treated his French prisoner with hospitality, and yet the Don had taken up arms because his house had been burnt, his parents and sister murdered, and he himself at that very moment pro- scribed as a brigand by Gen. Marchand (Toreno, x.). Ciudad Rodrigo became in the hands of the Duke an important base for future operations, and its cap- ture may be termed the first blow by which he struck down the invader. In these glorious recollections con- sist its present interest, for it is now dull, poverty-stricken, and perfectly unprovided with any requisite for real defence. Ciudad Rodrigo was so called after the Conde Rodrigo Gonzalez Giron, who founded it in 1150. Three Roman columns, brought from ancient Mala- briga and preserved on the Plaza, are borne by the city for its arms. It was formerly the see of a bishop. It abounds with interesting churches and palaces, thougli many are in a state of dilapidation, the result of sieges and pillage. A grand Moorish- looking Castle of the 13th centy. still towers above the city, almost perfect. The Cathedral, situate close to the walls, and not far from the breach through which Lord Wellington’s army entered, was begun in 1190 by Fer- dinand IT. of Leon ; and preserves the type of the Romanesque churches of this period, notwithstanding later ad- ditions. The choir is elegant pointed Gothic. The edifice was enlarged in 1538 by Cardinal Tavera, Archbp. of Toledo, who was previously bishop here. At the west end, within the porch, study a beautiful inner door of the old cathedral, with curious statue-work and alto-relievos of the Passion. Look also at the Puerta de las Cadenas at the S. side of the transept ; it is Romanesque, and finely decorated with statues and sculptures. The opposite door on the N. side has been very much altered. The fine Gothic silleria del coro was carved by Rodrigo Aleman. Obs. a series of paintings on panel, hanging in dif- ferent parts of the cathedral, by Fernando Gallegos, originally the High Altar-piece, now hung in a dark staircase leading to the chapter-house. The cathedral being placed at the N.W. angle of the town, and exposed to the Teson, or detached Fort, which was captured by the British, under Graham, has suffered much during the sieges. The cloister is worth visiting : it was built in several periods, and is most picturesque. In one of the angles under a small crucifix may be read the name of the architect, Benito Sanchez, who lies buried there. Another architect, Pedro Giiemez, who built the E. and N. sides, is represented in a medallion over the doorway to the Patio. The classical Colegiata or Capilla de Cerralvo, built at the back of the cathedral in 1558 by Francisco Pacheco, Archbishop of Burgos, was very fine. Being converted into a powder-maga- zine, it was blown up in 1818 by ac- cident. The town walls w T ere built by Ferdi- nand II., and the large square tower was erected by Henry II. in 1372. The Duke, when here, lodged at La Casa de Castro ; observe its portal with spiral pillars. The costumes of the Charro and Charra are to be seen in Ciudad Ro- drigo in great perfection on holidays. Ciudad Rodrigo is a point of mili- tary interest in itself, while in the vicinity are El Bodon, Pop. 889, where. Sept., 1811, the Duke with 40,000 men repulsed Marmont with 60,000 ; Sabugal, la Guarda, Fuentes de Onoro, Pop. 903, and other sites, where the Duke and our brave soldiers distin- guished themselves. Near it also, are Celorico, Fuente Guinaldo, Pop. 2103, Freneda, and other head-quarters of the Duke. [From Fuente Guindalo you can, if you have time and inclination, strike W. to Alfayates, Pop. 1195, and enter- ing Portugal, wind over the spurs of the Sierra de Meras, and by Torre to 152 Btes. 17, 18 . — Salamanca to Fregeneda and Medina. Sect. I, Sabugal ; Pop. 1721, and thence N/W. to Pega, Pop. 692, where (says Walter Scott), March 30th, 1811, the enemy’s rear-guard was overtaken by our ca- valry ; the rout complete — they were pursued and cut up — for miles. Continuing we reach the Guar da, Pop. 5284, a picturesque Portuguese episcopal town on the Sierra de Estrella, about 18 m. from the Spanish frontier, with stout walls, and castle, which guarded the frontier against the Moors. These almost impregnable heights were abandoned, March 29th, 1811, by Mas- sena, who, with 20,000 men, retired without firing a shot, before Picton, who had only three English and two Portuguese regiments. Thence on by Prades and Salgaraes, over a hilly peninsula formed by a bend of the Mondego, to Celorico. Pop. 1541. Cross the river and strike N.E. by Alverca to Valverde, and then ride on over the Coa to Almeida, distant about 2 m. The frontier fortress of Portugal, distant from the Spanish raya, 3 m., rises on a gentle eminence, almost surrounded by a desert 'plain, or table, as the word signifies in Arabic. Pop. about 1884. The citadel, never pro- perly repaired since the Peninsular war, yet still one of the finest in Por- tugal, commands a full view of the sur- rounding country. The first result of the Duke’s victory at Puentes de Onoro was the capture of Almeida, to relieve which Massena had risked the battle. The rivers Coa and Turones, at which the smuggler laughs, divide the two kingdoms ; from Almeida you can ride S. by the ridge to Freneda (Pop. 589), under Monte Cabrillas, and distant about 15 m. from Ciudad Rodrigo ; thence by Villa Formosa (Pop. 522) to Fuentes de Onoro (Pop. 903) (de la Noria ) ; enter the village, cross the streamlet Dos Casas, and then make for Alameda (Pop. 906), or for Galle- gos (Pop. 1205), a poor hamlet about 1 1 m. from the Agueda.] ROUTE 17. SALAMANCA TO FREGENEDA, ON THE FRONTIERS OF PORTUGAL. 46J m. From Salamanca (Rte.18) the road crosses the bridge of the Tormes to Tejares (Pop. 349). Leaving to the rt. the village of Ventorillo de Pescante, the road passes through the villages of Pericarlo, Rollan, Cabeza, and Ci- peres, to Vitigudino. Pop. 1949. From this point the road traverses a district watered by the Agueda, near its con- fluence with the Duero, to Fregeneda. Pop. 1342. No Inn: accommodation in the village. From this point the Duero is navi- gable to Oporto ; vessels descend from Fregeneda to the sea, and present a medium of communication to those who are inclined to explore the river from the point where it enters Portugal to its moutli. ROUTE 18. MEDINA DEL CAMPO TO SALAMANCA. 42 m. Rly. opened Sept. 1877. One train daily. Travellers wdio may wish to visit Salamanca on their way to Madrid, are warned that the hour that the train reaches Medina, and leaves for I Salamanca is at present (1882) most SALAMANCA Arrabal tie la P de Zamoi 1pta DE s | IsHritu DE SANTIAGO To face p. 153 , 1 F 3 Cate,dral Nueva. 2 F 3 Catedral Vieja. 3 E 3 University. 4 E 4 San Bartolome (Palace of the Civil Governors). 5 E 2 El Colegio de Cuenca. 6 E 2 El Col-'gio de Oviedo. 13 A 4 San Marcos. 14 C 3 La Vera Cruz. 15 D 4 Casa de las Salinas. 16 C 3 Bull Ring. 17 C 4 Post Office. 18 E 5 Theatre. 19 F 4 San Esteban. 1 C 2 El Colegio Mayor del Arzo- bispo (Irish College). 8 F 5 F.1 Colegio de Calatrava. 9 F 6 Santo Tomas. 10 D 2 San Bias.' 11 C 3 Monterey. 12 G 6 Carmelitas Calzadas. The Castiles. Route 18. — Salamanca. 158 inconvenient. (See £ Inclicador.’) A bed may be found by applying without loss of time at the "Restaurant, at the Stat. The Posada is bad. It is much more convenient, however, to go to Sala- manca from Madrid, taking the direct train to Medina del Campo Stat. Pop. 5123. 6J m. Campillo Stat. Pop. 381. 5J m. Carpio Stat. Pop. 1193. 6 in. Cantalapiedra Stat. Pop. 1824. 5J m. Carolina Stat. 5^ m. Pedroso Stat. Pop. 526. m. Gomeclo Stat. Pop. 237. Morisco Stat. 4 m. Salamanca Stat. (SeeRte. 14.) SALAMANCA. Index. Page 1. Hotels; Theatres; Post-office, &c. . 153 § 2. Historical Notice of Town and Uni- versity 153 $ 3. Squares 155 $ 4. Cathedral 155 } 5. University and Colleges 157 $ 6. Churches and Seminary 159 § 7. Old Houses 161 $8. Excursions — Battle-field of Salamanca 162 § 1. Hotels; Theatres; Post- office, &c. Omnibus to the town. Inns : La Burgalesa, a good clean Posada, rooms limited ; 26 reals per day. Ponda del Comercio looks fair. Cafe: .Suizo, in the Calle de Za- mora, a large well-conducted establish- ment. Casino , over the Cafe Suizo ; news- papers and a small library. Foreigners are admitted by sending in their cards. Theatres: El Liceo, Calle de Her- reros ; El Hospital, Calle San Justo. Bull Bing: outside the Puerta de Zamora ; bull-fights in September. N.B. These are generally first-rate. Post Office , in the Plaza Mayor. Despacho Central del Ferro Carril, near the Post Office. It is advisable to take tickets here and have luggage registered, to avoid the bustle at the station. Apothecary : Dr. Angel Villar y Pinto, Portales del Pan, No. 7. Eng- lish prescriptions carefully prepared. Promenades: The Plaza de la Ala- meda del Campo San Francisco (near the Irish College); El Paseo de la Glorieta, near the Bull Ring. The silversmiths’ shops are good, and contain a great variety of modern inexpensive local jewellery. § 2. Historical Notice of Town and University. Salamanca is the capital of its mo- dem department, the see of a Bishop, suffragan to Valladolid: Pop. 19,492. The town is dull, without learning, society, or commerce ; the climate is cold, for the air bites shrewdly, and as fuel is very scarce, the sun is the fireplace of the poor. Built in a horse-shoe shape, this an- cient city stands with its walls and domes overlooking the river Tormes, whose water often disagrees with strangers, and can only be drunk by the natives after standing for several days in cisterns, to allow of the deposit of some of the mineral or organic matter which it holds in solution. The river rises in the Sierra de Gredos, near Tormellas, and after a course of 135 m. flows into the Duero near Fermoselle ; it contains trout ; the best fishing is nearer the source ; at Salamanca the river is broader and im- posing, and the volume of water is (for Spain) very considerable. It is crossed by a handsome and very long- stone bridge, consisting of 26 arches : the 15 near the town are Roman, and in very good condition; the 11 re- maining ones are of the time of the Emperor Charles V. Seen from outside, Salamanca has an antique picturesque look. The beauti- ful creamy stone of which the cathe- dral and colleges are built comes from the quarries of Villa Franca, 3 m. viistant, and is infinitely superior in colour and duration to the perish- able material used at Oxford. This university, although in the land of Ala - medas, is, however, altogether deficient in the academic groves and delightful gardens of her English rival. Salamanca (Salmantica), a name 154 Route 18. — Salamanca . Sect. I. some have derived from Elman , the Iberian god of war, was a large and ancient city of the Vettones. Plutarch (De Virt. Mul.) calls it ^ya\7] tt6Xis ; he relates how, 582 u.c., Hannibal raised its siege, the Spaniards having “ promised to pay ” 300 talents of silver and give 300 hostages, but per- formed neither ; thereupon the Punic chief, not to be so done, came back and gave the place up to plunder, having first ordered the male popula- tion to come out with jackets, and without arms or cloaks. The women, however, hid swords under their sayas ; and when the Masssesylian guard placed over the prisoners left their charge to join in the pillage, these Amazons armed the men, who killed many of the plunderers. Under the Romans Salamanca became the ninth military station on the Via Lata, the broad road from Merida to Zaragoza. The Goths patronised Salamanca, and here coined money in gold. Ravaged by the Moors, and finally reconquered by the Spaniards in 1055, the city abounds with very interesting speci- mens of architecture, especially of the Romanesque, late Gothic, or plate- resque, and Renaissance styles. These are represented in a splendid manner. The pure pointed style of the 13th and 14th centuries Rococo is abund- ant, for Jose Churriguera, the here- siarch of bad taste, and whose name is synonymous with absurdity, was born here about 1660. The pride of Salamanca was laid in the dust by the French, whose ravages were thus described by the Duke, June 18th, 1812: — “The enemy eva- cuated on the 16th, leaving a garrison in the fortifications which they have erected on the ruins of the colleges and convents which they have de- molished.” “ The French among other acts of violence have destroyed 13 out of 25 convents, and 20 of 25 colleges which existed in this celebrated seat of learning.” Again, Feb. 10, 1813, he writes : — “ I have received intelli- gence that the enemy have destroyed the remaining colleges and other large buildings which were at Salamanca, in order to use the timber for firewood.” The western portion of Salamanca is consequently one heap of ruins.* The first university in Castile was that founded at Palencia by Alonso VIII., which induced Alonso IX. of Leon to establish this one. When the two kingdoms were united under his son St. Ferdinand, Palencia was in- corporated with Salamanca, and he gave the united universities new statutes in 1243. Alonso el Sabio, his son, favoured this seat of learning, and endowed professorships in 1254. Oxford takes precedence of Salamanca, a question decided at the Council of Constance, 1414, when Henry de Aben- don, warden of Merton, advocated our university, a decision the Spaniards never forgave. Salamanca was first governed by its own Rector ; and by a code drawn up in 1300 this officer, one of great authority, was chosen for a year every 11th of September, and en- tered into his functions on the 25th. The discipline of the university was placed under his tribunal.! Salamanca, which in the 14th centy. boasted of 10,000 students, had already in the 16th declined to 5000, and it continued to languish until the French invasion ; now it is so comparatively a desert, that when the Term, el curso , was opened, Oct. 1, 1881, by the rector, only 400 students appeared. The establishment of local universities in large cities in Spain lias broken up the monopoly which Salamanca once * For what Salamanca was before Ney and Marmont occupied the city, consult ‘ His toria de Salamanca,’ Gil Gonzalez de Avila, 4to., Sala- manca, 1606; and ‘Compendio Historico/ Ber- nardo Dorado, 4to., Salamanca, 1768, 1776 ; Ponz, xii. ; Florez, ‘ Esp. Sag.,’ xii. ; ‘ Historia,' Pedro Chacon, 8vo. ; the apologetical ‘ Resefia Historical M. H. Davila, 8vo., Salam. 1849 ; « Recuerdos y Bellezas de Espana,’ 1 vol., 1865 ; ‘ Salamanca Artfstica y Monumental,’ por Dr. Modesto Falcon, 1 vol. ; ‘ Guia de Salamanca,’ by tne same author, 1 vol., Salam. 1868. f The details of office, and the description of the silver bedels (maceros), the tufts or gowns (roscas), and the old cock crest (becas), em- blematic of nobility, and the particulars of the hoods that were worn with the gown, Manto or Loba de Buriel, and much more, will be found in Davila and Daroda, and also in Salazar’s chronicle of the ‘ Gran Cardenal,’ ii. 11, and in that quaint old ‘ Handbook ’ for Spain, ‘ Gran- dezas de Espana,’ Pedro de Medina, 1566, p. 97, The Castiles. 155 Route 18. — Squares, Cathedral . enjoyed ; it is now almost exclusively reduced to students of the province. Wlien the new line connects Sala- manca with Portugal it is probable that Salamanca will greatly gain in importance. § 3. Squares. Visit first the superb Plaza Mayor, which is one of the largest squares in Spain. It was built by Andres Garcia de Quinones in 1700-33. A colonnaded arcade is erected on each side, under- neath which to the N. is the Casa del Ayuntamiento, or mansion-house, Chur- rigueresque in style. In this Plaza bull-fights were given as recently as 1863, and 16,000 to 20,000 spectators have often been accommodated. The centre is now occupied by a pleasant garden. Under the arcades is the fashionable promenade of the town. The facades on the S. and W. sides are adorned with basts of kings and worthies of Spain ; blank spaces have been left on the other sides for future great men. Below this square is the old Grass Market, la Plaza de la Verdura; obs. the picturesque dress of the peasants. § 4. Cathedral. The Cathedral is a splendid example of the florid Gothic of the age of Leo X. ; it was begun (read the inscription at the grand entrance) in 1513. A consultation was previously held of all the chief architects of Spain ; see the curious documents printed by Cean Bermudez (Arch. i. 293). The plan of Juan Gil de Ontanon was selected, and the edifice was built under Bishop Francisco de Bobadilla, son of Bea- triz, the dear friend of Isabel. He had the good sense to spare the old cathedral, to which this is now joined, and from whence the service was re- moved March 25, 1560. The principal and finest entrance to the W. is pro- fusely decorated from the top to the bottom with fine statues, medallions, and delicate ornamentation, the work of Juan de Juni and Gaspar Becerra. The rich Gothic predominates, but the tendency to the plateresque is evident. Obs. the infinite ornaments and statues of the beautiful portal, and the pecu- liarly warm tint of the cream-coloured stone in which they are wrought. The towers are inferior, and are of later date. The next entrance, which is also very fine, is that of la Puerta de las Palmas, which opens upon the raised plaza to the N. ; over the puerta is the “Entry into Jerusalem/’ in bassi-rilievi. The interior produces a most admirable effect. The central aisle is the highest of the three; at the sides of the two lateral ones are enclosed chapels. The roof is sup- ported by graceful shafts, with small capitals painted in blue and gold ; the Gothic roof is studded with gilded rosettes. The double gallery in the transept is most delicate, with a double frieze of birds, animals, and scroll- work. Obs. above, the busts and coats of arms projecting from circular frames which were once gilded. The oc- tangular cimborio is very light and elegant. The coro, as usual, blocks up the centre; the silleria is hand- somely carved, and the exterior Chur- rigueresque. Obs., behind the coro, the much over-praised statues of St. John, and a cross Santa Anna teach- ing the Virgin to read, both ascribed to Juan de Juni. Visit the beauti- ful Dorado chapel, built by Francisco Sanchez de Palenzuela ; obs. the pro- fusion of small saints, placed in rows, on gilt pedestals, picked out in blue, white, and gold, and the skeleton look- ing down, with the inscription at his feet, Memento mori ; also the tribuna, with charming old organ. The tomb of the founder is dated 1524 ; he is sculptured as asleep in his robes ; above is his portrait in black. The azulejos , and the sepulchres of two pre- lates, and every detail is worth looking at in this beautiful little chapel. In the Capilla del Presidente is a copy, by El Mudo , of Titian’s “ Deposition,” and two heads of the Saviour by Morales. Obs. to the 1. of the door which enters the old cathedral, a Virgin with the Infant and St. John, ascribed to Morales. Visit next la Pieza, the vestry of the canons ; obs. the delicate foliage and ornaments, and 156 Boute 1 8 . — Salamanca : Old Cathedral. Sect. I. the Louis XIV. mirrors. In the ad- joining Oratorio the relics are kept, but the French carried off the silver mountings. Here is el Crucifijo de las Batallas , a small Byzantine bronze, which the Cid always carried in fight. The crown and the apron are gilt, the body is girded with a white belt, studded with chequer work, a good example of old champ-leve enamel of Limoges.* This authentic and curious relic was brought here by Geronimo, the Cid’s own bishop, and remained over the prelate’s tomb from 1120 to 1607, until it was removed to this Relicario. There is also a good Gothic reliquary of the 15th centy. In the Capilla del Carmen may be seen the remains of Bishop Geronimo, and on the hideous Churrigueresque retablo there is a crucifix, about half a yard high, which, it is said, was carried by the Bishop in the wars with the Cid. It is roughly made of dark wood, but is an interesting specimen of sculpture of the 11th centy. In the Capilla de San Antonio there is a picture repre- senting the Beheading of St. John ; notice the fine figure of the Virgin, in dark green robe, giving a white rose to the Saviour Child; to the rt. of it there is a San Cristobal, and to the 1. a San Andres, all 3 fine examples of the Spanish painter Fer- nando Gallegos.f In the Capilla de Nuestra Senora de la Verdad, obs. a Crucifixion, with two bishops. Below are buried the family of the founder, Antonio Corrionero. The small box, dated 1628, contains parchment title- deeds. Obs. in this chapel a St. Jerome beating his breast, by Gaspar Becerra. A broad flight of steps leads down from the S. aisle into The old Cathedral, $ which lies below a fine specimen of Romanesque work ; it is simple and massy ; hence the epithet, “ Fortis Salmantina.” Ascend the tower, for the sweeping views. It was built by that warlike prelate, * See ‘ El Cristo de las Batallas/ Gil Davila, 4to., Salam., 1615. f Ferdinand Gallegos was born at Salamanca in the middle of the 15th century, and is the Van Eyck of the Peninsula. X See Street’s ‘ Gothic Architecture of Spain.’ Geronimo, the confessor of the Cid, a Frenchman, born in Perigord. He was brought to Spain by his country- man Bernardo, primate of Toledo, and made Bishop of Valencia, in 1098, by the Cid. Translated to Zamora after his master’s death, he induced Count Ramon, the husband of Queen Urraca, in 1102, to build this cathedral at Sala- manca, which Calixtus II., own bro- ther to Ramon, elevated to episcopal dignity. Geronimo introduced the Norman-French style of architecture in both his cathedrals ; the exterior of his iglesia vieja is best seen from la puerta del patio chico. It is a cross ch. with 3 E. apses, and a dome at the crossing, covered with scaly tiles, raised upon arcades, pierced with windows, in order to support the pressure of the vault ; four round pinnacles are built outside. Mr. Street considered that this dome was a rare feature treated with great success and originality. The effect inside and out is admirable. The curved retablo in the Capilla Mayor, filled with 55 paintings, in fresco, set in white and gold frames, is worthy of careful study. With the exception of two of these paintings, which are of the 15th centy., and which have been placed to hide the spot probably occupied by an image, the remainder are by the Italian artist Nicolas Florentino, an excellent painter of the 14th centy. The fresco, painted on the dome, of the Last Judg- ment, is also by him. Under the retablo there is an interesting Gothic image of the Virgin, similar to another which may be seen in the Capilla de Talavera in the cloister. This unique retablo is in perfect preservation, and most beautiful in colour. The arches, capitals, and sepulchres date about 1466. Among other tombs observe that of Mafalda, daughter of Alonso VIII., 1204 ; of the Dean Fernando Alonso, 1285 ; of Juan Fernandez, Rico Ome, 1503, the two with sculp- tured figures of weeping women, ylafii- deras , and paintings in fresco of the 14th centy. Several of these tombs have been published in the Spanish work, 4 Monumentos Arquitectonicos.’ In the old cloisters, built in 1170, and partly modernized, the schools Tlie Gas tiles. 157 lloute 18. — University . Were formerly held. Obs. the two beautiful capitals of the doorway. Several inscriptions are imbedded in the wall. Some ancient tombs and old paintings on panel should be noticed. In the rt.-hand angle there is a sculptured life-sized figure of the Virgin, 15th centy., horribly daubed over. There are four chapels in the cloister : three of them are interesting. The first to the left of the entrance door is the Capilla de Talavera, founded in 1510 by Rodrigo Arias Maldonado : it contains the tomb of the founder and two flags taken from the Comuneros in 1521. This chapel was destined for the Muz- arabic ritual, which is celebrated there six times a year. The roof, which belongs to the primitive construction, is of the highest interest. It is com- posed of ribs in parallel lines, which recall Byzantine constructions anterior to the 11th centy. The next chapel to this is dedicated to Sta. Barbara, founded in 1314 by Bishop Juan Lucero. His tomb and other interest- ing ones of the same period may be seen there. Here are kept the chairs and seats from whence degrees were conferred to the licentiates and doctors of the University up to 1842. In ihe Sala Capitular there is a Virgin by Guido Reni. On the S. side of the cloister is the beautiful chapel of San Bartolome, founded by Diego de Anaya, archbishop of Seville, in 1374. The ceiling is painted in blue, and studded with stars of gold. Obs. eight in- teresting tombs of members of his family : the most important is the founder’s, which is in the centre, sur- rounded by an iron railing and open- work inscription, a very remarkable specimen of ironwork. The mediaeval organ and Moorish tracery on it are most interesting. The beautifully executed effigies of an armed knight and his lady, are supposed to be the father and mother of Archbishop Anpya: the lady is dressed in the costume of a nun, having doubtless assumed that garb upon the departure of her husband for the wars : obs. the singular pattens in which her feet are placed instead of shoes. Opposite the cathedral to the 1. is San Bartolome, now the palace of the civil governor, a good Greco-Romano building which was built over an older one in the last century. It is the eldest of the Colegios Mayores, and is called El Colegio Viejo.* § 5. University and Colleges. Now pass into the University by the door next to San Bartolome, although the principal entrance is in the Calle de Libreros. The walls on this side are the oldest in the building. Obs. the Moorish ceilings and walls of the 15th centy., which have unfortunately been restored. The Patio has been modernized, and the royal portraits in chiaroscuro are very poor. The schools were commenced in 1415 by Alonso Rodrigo Carpintero, and were removed here from the cloister in 1433. This was the age of Juan II., the patron of literature and of the trouba- dour (see the inscription over the gate de las Cadenas). The chapel, dedicated to San Geronimo , of which Medina gives the curious details, was modernized and ruined under the Bourbons. The retablo , rich in ma- terials and poor in design, contains some bad pictures by Francisco Cacha- niga. Ask to see some fine vestments of the 16th century which are in the sacristia. The velvet benches em- broidered with the arms of the town are kept here. Over the door of each of the aulas , “halls,” or lecture-rooms, are tablets denoting the science which is, was, or ought to be taught to them ; inside each is a pulpit for the lecturer, or catedraticOy with rows of benches for the students, and a sort of ledge for them to write their notes on. Ascend- ing the staircase, especially observe the morris dancers and foiiage by way of banisters ; in the ante-room the roof of the ceiling is in rich artesonado , and stalactitical. The handsome library is fitted with Louis-XIV. book-cases and gallery : in a smaller room are pre- served many most interesting illumi- * Consult its history by Ruiz de Vergara. 3 vols. fol., Madrid, 1766-70. 158 Route 18. — Salamanca : University , Colleges . Sect. I. nated manuscripts, and books, of which the most remarkable are an illuminated MS. of the 15th eenty., Libro de las claras e virtuosas mugeres , attributed to Don Alvaro de Luna. Obras de Seneca , MS. of the 15th centy. ; a small Bible, 14th centy., finely illumi- nated. A large collection of early printed books and autographs of Fray Louis de Leon; and also such works as are prohibited by the liber expur- gatorius , which the obliging librarian will be glad to show to visitors. The library is rich in theology, editions of Aristotle, works ofTostado, &c. Near the ante-room is the chamber in which the student about to “ dispute ” or “ wrangle ” is placed with a sentinel at the door, for 25 hours, to consider his subject quietly ; it was originally filled with huge folios, many of which, espe- cially the polemical books, were chained to the reading-desks, according to the general system in the middle ages. Passing through some quaint tapes- try-clad rooms is the Sala del Claustro, a modern saloon, in which the doc- tors and heads of houses assemble in conclave. You may also look at the chapel and museum of chemistry and natural history. The size of these now deserted halls bears witness of past crowds. Coming out of the schools, particu- larly obs. the grand faQade of the University Library, which is alone worth an architect’s visit to Salamanca to see. It is the triumph of the de- corative and heraldic style ; the creamy stone has been as wax in the hands of the artist. It is of the richest period of Ferdinand and Isabella, whose medallions and badges are interworked with scrolls: the inscription is in Greek — “ The Kings to the University, and this to the Kings” (ot fiaaiAeh tt} iyKVKAoTraLbe'ia, avrr] ro?s fiaaiXzvo'i). Some of the medallions and statu- ettes are quite classic in character. In the Plazuela opposite is the hos- pital for poor students, and two Gothic facades of former Escuelas menores. Visit the patio, which is entered by the arcaded door at the end of the Plazuela. A statue in bronze, of Fray Luis de Leon, has lately been erected in the centre of this square. The Archivo is in one of the rooms in the Patio ; it contains several inte- resting documents and autographs of Vasco de Gama, Calderon, &c. Ask to have the doors of one of their book- cases opened on which are painted the classes as they were arranged in the 17th century. Passing to San Bias, some idea may be formed of the frightful devastation caused by the French. El Colegio de Oviedo was in the immediate vicinity. Nothing but the barest fragments of its outer walls remain. In order to fortify this commanding quarter, they demolished San Benito, San Vicente, La Merced, and Los Cayetanos, and levelled all the houses up to San Bernardo, to make a glacis. These forts were stormed by the Duke in person, June 27, 1812, and althougii defended by 800 picked men and 20 cannon, surrendered after a feeble re- sistance. Thus were captured in a few hours bastions which it had occu- pied the enemy three long years to construct, for which the palatial abodes of religion and learning were razed ; and this in the face of Marmont’s superior army, which did not venture to interfere. Adjoining is el Colegio Mayor de Santiago Apostol (called also del Arzo- bispo , after the Archbishop of Toledo, Alonso de Fonseca, its founder > This fine edifice is now El Colegio de Nobles Irlandeses. Their original college was founded in 1592 by Philip II., and dedicated to St. Patrick. In this college 12 Irish students are usually in training for the priesthood. The Bev. John Cowan is the present rector. The students follow their course of theology and law at the seminary, where they receive their degrees. The edifice itself was begun in 1521 by Pedro de Ibarra at the best period of the cinquecento style of archi- tecture. Obs. the airy and elegant Patio * the fluted pillars, and Pierino del Vago medallions, which glitter in The Oasfciles. Route 18.-- San Esteban. 159 the sun like a rich chasing by Cellini. The sculptured heads of warriors and boys, some in caps, some in helmets, are full of grace and variety of design. Ibarra was aided by Alonso de Covar- rubias and by Berruguete: thus the three great artistic architects of their age were simultaneously employed, each vying in honourable rivalry to outdo the other. Some of the work is in the transition period from the Gothic to the Renaissance. Berruguete in 1529 undertook to “ build, carve, and paint ” the retdblo of the chapel : Ponz (xii. 234) gives an extract from the original agreement. The noble work was finished in 1531. The 8 paintings are rather coldly coloured, and the drawing resembles that of Juan de Bologna ; the upper 4 are the best. The subjects are the descent of the Holy Ghost, Ana- nias and Sapphira, the Finding of Moses, Presentation in the Temple, Ascension of the Saviour, his Baptism, Flight into Egypt, Adoration of the Shepherds. The two lower are copies, the invaders having abstracted the ori- ginals. The library is fine, but badly kept, and the whole building is in a sad state, owing to the scarcity of funds. Some fine vestments may be seen in the sacristy. § 6. Churches and Seminary. Near the Cathedral, down the Calle del Sur, is the Church of Santiago ; in its sacristy are some good carved ward- robes ; and in the Colegio de la Vega, which may be visited from here, there is part of a fine Byzantine cloister. San Esteban, comlnonly called Santo Domingo, a Dominican convent, has retained the old name of San Esteban, because, when an earlier one near the Tonnes was destroyed by a flood in Nov. 1256, this parish church was assigned to that order, and one of the finest ex- ternally enriched Gothic buildings in the world was erected. The bene- factors were Juan Alvarez de Toledo, uncle to the great Alva, and Diego de Deza, tutor to Prince Juan (who died at Salamanca, Oct. 7, 1497) and after- wards Archbishop of Seville. This true Dominican was, like Philip II., a patron of art, protector of Columbus, and sincere even in his bigotry. He also founded the College of Santo Tomas at Seville. Obs. the elaborate f^ 9 ade and portal, which almost rivals that of the University Library. The eye is bewildered with the details, which are thrown like a lace em- broidery or filigree work over the whole; the creamy stone is worked into saints, apostles, candelabra, and richest caprice. The martyrdom of the tutelar is a group, sculptured in stone by Juan Antonio Ceroni of Milan. Obs. the stone in the centre of the basso-relievo upon which the saint is leaning his 1. hand ; upon it the artist has cut his name: the date (1610) is cut upon the stone which one of the persecutors (to the extreme 1.) is about to pick up from the ground. The medallions on the facade in the Gothic- style, which represent St. George, Da- vid, St. James, Abraham, are beauti- ful. The frieze of children and horses in the second tier is very fine. The entrance into the noble church is under a dark elliptical arch, which supports the coro as at the Escorial, beyond which all is brilliant, nay, the centre altar and two side ones are overdone with gilding. They are by Churriguera himself. The ch. is a Latin cross: the end of the nave above the elliptical arch is painted in fresco by Antonio Palomino , the subject is the “ Triumph of Religion.” The roof is richly stud- ded ; the retablo has a good martyrdom of St. Stephen by Claudio Coello. In the centre there is a statuette of great interest, of the Virgin holding the Infant Saviour in her arms. It is made of gilt bronze, and the throne on which she is seated has a series of figures in champ-leve enamel of the 12th centy. It is known by the name of Virgen de la Vega , and probably belonged for- merly to the old cathedral. Go behind the retablo to see it. Some fine statues by Salvador Carmona are in this retablo. In the chapel of San Pedro Martir there exists a good painting on panel of the martyrdom of St. Ursula. Notice in the Belicario the slippers which Pius V. wore upon the occasion 160 Boute 18. — Salamanca: when lie received the Prince after the victory. The wooden urna in the centre of the apartment contains the bones of the Duke and Duchess de Alba. Obs. also the Sala Capitular, built in 1637 by Juan Moreno ; it con- tains some bas-reliefs of the 13th centy., the grand staircase and beautiful sacristia. The cloister is very fine. Obs. the pillars and capitals in the angles and basso-relievos sculptured by Alonso Sardina. It has been most creditably restored of late years by workmen of the locality. In the S. side is the room De profundis where it is said Columbus explained for the first time his theories to the community. In what was the library, and in the upper cloisters, there is now a small col- lection of paintings. They are all rubbish, and hardly worth a visit. Columbus in 1481-6 was lodged in this convent ; Deza and the rest of the Dominican Fathers, to their undying honour, espoused his scheme, which the “Doctors” of the University had pro- nounced to be “vain, impracticable, and resting on grounds too weak to merit the support of the government.” Opposite to the palace of Monterey, with its two turrets, all gutted by the French, is las Agustinas Recoletas, a once magnificent convent, founded in 1626 by Manuel de Zuniga, Conde de Monterey, and favourite of Philip IY. This “good slow man,” according to Clarendon, having married a sister of the all-powerful Conde Duque, was by him appointed viceroy at Naples. He there became so rich, that a poor wo- man, who had a longing, un antojo, to see Philip IY., when thanking the king for granting her an audience, prayed that “ God might make him also vice- roy of Naples.” The convent, built by Juan Fontana, is a noble pile, with fluted Corinthian pillars, a simple cupola, and has altogether an Italian character. The church, a pure Latin cross, is one of the finest in Salamanca and is very rich in marbles. Obs. the Florentine pulpit of Pietre Dure ; notice the retablo , with Corinthian red marble pillars, and the gilt tabernacle, with spiral columns and lapis lazuli ; Las Agustinas Bccoletas. Sect. I. the crucifix in the retablo and the Tombs of the founder and his wife are by Algardi ; that of the founder is finely carved; obs. his armour and costume ; many pompous titles are inscribed below the kneeling figures, which but enhance the triumph of death, who has cropped them all to form a garland for his victor brow. Monterey was a liberal patron of art ; many pictures which he gave to Philip IY. are still at Madrid ; lie reserved for this convent “ San Januario kneeling on the clouds,” by P. Veronese , doubt- ful : an “ Annunciation,” by Lanfranco ; a “ Nativity,” once by Ribera ; it has, however, been almost entirely re- painted. Notice also some fine paint- ings by Stanzioni (Caballero Maximo), a St. John, like Guido; a St. Joseph ; a dark San Agustin; a meeting of the Virgin and Elisabeth; a Nativity, excellent ; a San Nicolas, by Lan- franco ; a Virgin del Rosario , by Ribera ; especially obs. the grand altarpiece, the Concepcion , signed. “Jusepe de Ribera, Espanol, Valen- tiano, F. 1635,” certainly the finest specimen of this master which exists in Spain. As Monterey was viceroy at Naples at the precise moment when Ribera, Stanzioni, Lanfranco, and others had created there a school of art, this convent became, and still con- tinues, a small museum of Neapolitan paintings. The other pictures in- side the convent cannot be seen by the male sex, as the nunnery is en clausura. They are believed to be most numerous, and (some of them) of great excellence; a great number are supposed to be buried within the precincts of this sanctum sanctorum. Another nunnery, Santi Spiritu, destined, like Las Huelgas at Burgos, for noble ladies, is a fine pile of granite. Obs. the superb roof over the coro , a good carved retablo over the high altar, and the richly-chased portal by Berruguete. Close to the city walls is the curious Romanesque little ch. of San Marcos, circular, yet having three apses inside. Obs. the rich plateresque portal of The Castiles. Route 18 . — Old Houses . 161 Las Duenas, founded in 1419, as in- side it Santa Teresa received her Divine revelations. There are several churches besides these which may interest the architect. San Benito, San Juan de Barbalos, Santo Tomas, &c. In the monastery of Bernardas there are two statues by Berruguete, and in the chapel of la Santa Cruz, a good Dolorosa by Corral. The Jesuitas (La Clericia), built in 1614, by Juan Gomez de Mora, is an enormous pile. The chapel and tran- sept are grand, but the cimborio has been cracked, and the relablo is of vile Churrigueresque. The portals, towers, and cupolas are more striking from size than good art. It is now a clerical seminary. In the sacristy are some pictures by Rubens, and a good statue of Christ, by Carmona. In a small room leading from the sacristy, there is a picture of the school of Leonardo. At Salamanca Philip II. was married (Nov. 13, 1543) to Maria of Portugal, upon which occasion gown and town, the city and the dons, outdid them- selves in bull-fights, in order to wipe away ail memory of the part the city had taken against his father in the outbreak of 1521. The leader of the Patriots, or Comuneros , on that occasion was one Valloria, a botero , or maker of wine pigskins. This agitator plundered the colleges, their plate-chests, butteries, and cellars, so effectually, that the delighted mob made every one swear this oath of allegiance — “ Juras a Dios no haber mas Bey , ni Papa, que Vallo- ria.” This Castilian Jack Cade was hanged April 23, 1521. § 7. Old Houses, Among the houses best worth ob- serving in Salamanca is La Casa de la Sal, or Salinas, with its arched front, granite pillars, ornamented windows, and splendid 'patio. Obs. the projecting roof and gallery, upheld by grandly carved figure-supports in the boldest Italian style, representing the victories of Charles V. over the Turks ; they are [Spain, 1882.] the finest sculptures in Salamanca. The Maldonado family have a fine old house opposite la Trinidad. Near the Jesuitas is the Casa de las Conchas, ornamented on the exterior like the Mendoza Palace at Guadalajara ; stud- ded with stone shells, the heraldic badge of the owner. It is ornamented with fine patio and minute Gothic ornaments. Obs. the splendid facade and interesting rejas. It may be con- sidered the most complete house in Spain of its period, which corresponds with the florid Burgundian style of the Low Countries. In the Plaza San Agustin observe the ruined front of the convent destroyed by the invaders, and an old house with the arms of Ferdinand and Isabel, and most deli- cately shaped windows. The Palacio del Conde de Monterey, before men- tioned, has two remarkably elegant turrets or miradores , with an upper gallery of open arcaded windows, which look like a rich lace fringe of the solid basement below. The Calle de los Muertos is so called from the house built by Archbishop Fonseca, whose bust, with those of his two nephews, is sculptured in front. Under the windows were placed skulls, emblems of the dead, which gave the name to the street. These have been removed. Visit now the house of the Marques de Almarza, in the Plaza de San Boal ; and obs. the rosette-studded arch at the entrance, and the medal- lions in the patio , especially that of a young lady with a ruff, and the heads of the founder and his beautiful wife, whose drapery is free and flowing. Here the Duke lodged when in Sala- manca in 1812. In the Plaza Santo Tome is an ancient mansion, with red- brick Moorish arches and Azulejos , and another with a Berruguete front and portal, with the medallions of the founder and his wife, a very common Spanish cinquecento decoration. The Torre del Clavero is a good speci- men of the mediaeval Castilian keep, with those little bartizan turrets at the corner, which occur at Coria, Coca, Segovia, Gaudamur, and elsewhere. In the Cuesta del Seminario was the M 162 Sect. I. Route 18 . — Battle of Salamanca. Aula , the hall, where Villena endea- voured to restore learning. Here he taught natural philosophy, which the dons and doctors thought magical. Descend now to the Tormes, and ob- serve the foundations of the old Roman bridge, and the amohadillado masonry. Having passed the Tormes, turn to the rt., and cross the rivulet Zurguen, to obtain a view of the noble city, rising proudly in front. This Zurguen was to the poet Melendez what the “ Bonny Boon ” was to Burns. § 8. Excursions. — The Battle. A. To the Battle-field of Salamanca, and Alba de Tormes. This excursion should be made on horseback, al- though ladies may make it in a con- veyance if such can be procured. Cross the bridge, and proceed direct to the battle-field (4 m.). The Battle op Salamanca. The battle of Salamanca was the culmination of a series of manoeuvres in which Wellington was pitted against one of the best tacticians among Na- poleon’s generals, and of which some detail must be given in order that the battle itself may be understood. On the 17th of June, 1812, Welling- ton crossed the Tormes by the fords near Salamanca, and Marmont, hav- ing thrown garrisons into the forts about that town, withdrew behind the Douro. On the 20th Wellington cap- tured the forts, and having blown them up followed Marmont, with the inten- tion of falling on him. On the 8th of July Marmont lay with his right at Toro, his centre at Tordesillas, and his left at Simancas on the Pisuerga. Wellington lay with his left on the Guarena, his centre at Trabancos, and his right at Rueda. The waters of the Douro were high, and Wellington hoping that Marmont, being short of supplies, would have to scatter for food, decided to wait a better opportunity for attack. In this he was disappointed, for Marmont held on and was reinforced. Further, it was reported that Joseph was approaching from Madrid to cut otf the Allies’ re- treat through Salamanca. Jealousies existing between the French marshals, Marmont doubted whether any assistance would come to him, and on the 15th of July began operations with a view to out-manoeuv- ring his enemy. On the 18th he moved against the Allies’ left, in order to draw them away from opposing his advance by their right. Marmont’s feint succeeded, and countermarching down the right bank of the Douro, he crossed it at Polios and Tordesillas, thus turning the Allies’ right. Wel- lington then concentrated his army behind the Guarena, and on the 19th the two armies faced one another on the banks of that stream below Canizal. Wellington’s object now was to cover Salamanca and the road to Ciudad Rodrigo, to reach which Marmont had to cross the Tormes by the fords at S. Marta, Aldea Lengua, Huerta, and Alba. Wellington, depending on a Spanish garrison in Alba, thought his left safe, and imagined that he could reach the other fords before Marmont. In this he underrated the French powers of marching, for on the 20th Marmont crossed the Guarena, and moving across Wellington’s right, made all haste to reach the fords at Huerta and Alba, knowing — which Wellington did not — that the Spaniards had eva- cuated the latter. Wellington, frus- trated in his attempt to cross the French line of march, was only able to march parallel to Marmont, watch- ing a favourable opportunity for attack. On the 21st the French crossed the Tormes at Huerta and Alba. Welling- ton on the same day crossed by S. Marta and Aldea Lengua. That night the French encamped about Calvariza Aribal, their left threatening the Ro- drigo road. The Allies lay with their right at Arapiles, and their left at S. Marta. Being now assured of the advance of French reinforcements, Wellington determined to retreat upon Ciudad Rodrigo, and would have done so on the 22nd, had not Marmont, by an intercepted letter, become aware of 168 Boute 18 . — Battle of Salamanca, The Castiles. his intention, and consequently made further efforts to gain the Rodrigo road before Wellington should be able to. In this effort he overreached him- self, and giving Wellington an oppor- tunity for attack, brought on the battle of Salamanca. Marmont had with him 42,000 men and 74 guns, and Welling- ton commanded 46,400, of whom 3,500 were Spaniards, and 60 guns. On the morning of the 22nd Wel- lington made preparations for his retreat, hiding his forces in the rugged ground to the south-east of Salamanca. Marmont sent a force against the Arapiles or Hermanitos, two hills due east of the village of Arapiles, a little distant from his left and the English right. Rushing up the easternmost of these, the French captured it, and almost gained the western. On the latter Wellington remained during the day. The waggons were now in motion, and raising a dust, caused Marmont to imagine that the English retreat to Rodrigo would be secured before he could interpose. Therefore, thinking that his position on the Arapiles would cause Wellington to retire, Marmont brought up Foy’s and Feroy’s divisions, placing the first between the French Arapiles and N. Senora de la Pena, and the second on a ridge behind Foy’s, to hasten the movement. At the same time the French right was ordered to close in through the forest between the Arapiles and Babila Fuenta. Wellington was thus caused to change his front, his former front becoming his rear, and his left his right. Breaks and hollows screened his men, and the few that could be seen by the French seemed to point to the Rodrigo road. Still the French right did not arrive, and Marmont, fearing the Allies would effect their retreat before his disposi- tions were complete, ordered Thomiere’s division from the left to make a flank movement and threaten the Rodrigo road ; then hastening his other divi- sions, he waited till Wellington should move to oppose Thomiere, designing, when he should, to fall on him by the village of Arapiles with six divisions and Boyer’s dragoons. In these cir- cumstances the two armies embraced the oval basin formed by the ridges of hills. The north and west half of the basin formed the Allies’ position. The eastern heights were held by the French, and Thomiere was moving along the south, but with a wide loose march. The forest to the south-east of the Arapiles was to cover the French centre, but this was not yet occupied. Thomiere’ s artillery opened fire, and it seemed that the Allies’ position was surrounded. Wellington, who had retired for refreshment, returned at three p.m., and seeing Thomiere gra- dually increasing his distance from the rest of the army on his right, deter- mined to profit immediately from his error. Some troops from the English Arapiles, and those concealed in the hollows and breaks, rushed into the basin and formed line of battle. Mar- mont then ordered Thomiere’s division to halt, and assaulted the English Arapiles with Bonnet’s division. At five p.m. Pakenham, issuing from the woods about Aldea Tejada, fell like a thunderbolt on Thomiere’s leading troops, killing Thomiere himself, and, with the assistance of the cavalry, com- pletely routing the whole division. At the same time Bonnet’s attack was repulsed. The troops from Babila Fuente had now pushed through the forest and covered Thomiere’s division while it rallied. Pack, with his Portuguese, now assailed the French Arapiles, but was repulsed and well-nigh routed. Clausel, who on Marmont retiring wounded, had taken command of the French, having secured his line of retreat, determined to make one last effort to save the day. On a ridge of hills opposite the village of Arapiles the fourth and fifth divisions were posted, and the French dashing up the hill won the ridge and crossed it. Pouring down the other side, they met with a check from the gallantry of the 61st and 11th Regiments, and, attacked in flank by the 53rd, lost the ground they had won. The Reserves being now brought up by Wellington, the French were forced to retreat along their whole line. Clausel posted the m 2 Sect. I. 164 Route 18. — Salamanca : Excursions . remnants of Thomiere’s ill-fated divi- sion on a steep ridge in the forest, covering the Alba de Tonnes road, and commenced slowly to retire. This force was commanded by Maucune, who fought with the full knowledge that the safety of the army depended on his efforts. The Allies attempted time after time to gain his position, but not till the retreat was secure did he relinquish it. Had the Spaniards still held Alba de Tonnes, the destruc- tion of the French army would have been complete, but “ Wellington had defeated 40,000 men in 40 minutes.’* After the battle, while riding behind the 43rd Regiment, he was struck in the thigh with a spent bullet, and his adversaries, Marmont, Thomiere, and Bonnet were all badly wounded. The French in the battle lost 12,000 men; the Allies 5,200, of whom 3,176 were British. The prize was 11 guns, many waggons, 6,500 prisoners, two eagles, and many standards. Wellington was made a Marquis, and received a grant of £100,000 to purchase estates. The results of this victory were that the road to Valladolid was open, and that Soult, raising the siege of Cadiz, evacuated the south of Spain. But its influence reached wider, for Napo- leon, hearing in the heart of Russia of the defeat of Marmont, held it an omen of evil, while the Russians and Germans were proportionately en- couraged to resistance. E. F. D. C. From Arapiles ride over the hills to Alba de Tonnes (8 m.). Inn : Posada de Francisco Acebedo ; small and humble, but clean and decent. Pop. 2751. This ancient little town rises above the river Tormes, and is com- manded by the finely-placed palace- castle, with its now ruined towers and machicolations. It gives the ducal title to the family of Toledo; its bridge is after the manner of that at Toledo. Visit the Ch. of the Carmelitas des- calzas, and obs. the noble sepulchres of Francisco Velazquez and Teresa his wife, also that of Simon Galarza, and that of Juan de Ovalle and Dona J uana, with a child kneeling at their feet. The stately shrine, raised in 1750, forms the centre portion of the retablo, and contains the relics of Santa Teresa herself, the sainted founder of the con- vent. Amongst the pictures by un- known artists obs. a San Vicente de Paul, the death of Santa Teresa (in the sacristy), and the taking the veil by Santa Teresa (also in the sacristy). Near the town is the Geronimite Convent, containing the tomb of Gu- tierrez Alvarez, Archb. of Toiedo. The traveller can return by the good direct diligence-road, passing through park-like scenery, groves of oaks and olive-trees, to Salamanca. B. To the Baths of Fuente del Cano (10 J m.); road tolerably good; it passes through Aldea Luenga and Huerta (Pop. 438) to Bablia Fuente (Pop. 1032), near which are the mine- ral springs; tolerable accommodation during the season. C. To the Baths of Ledesma, 18 m. Pop. 2876. Diligence service during the season (15th June to 15th Septem- ber). The road passes through the villages of Tejares (Pop. 349), Carrasca de Barrega, and Parador de Arriba (Pop. 409), to El Establecimiento, which is situated about 5 miles from the village of Ledesma. The sulphur- ous springs lie ensconced in a wooded dell in the immediate vicinity of the; river Tormes ; they are several in number, and the hot mineral water is abundant. It is used both externally and internally. Rheumatism, gout, and every kind of skin disease can be beneficially treated here. The neighbourhood affords excellent shooting and fishing : hares, rabbits, partridges, abound, whilst the hawk, the vulture, and an occasional eagle, may also be shot by naturalistic sports- men. The district is of great antiquity, and the chief town, Ledesma (the Bletissa of the Romans), has a pictur- esque and feudal appearance. Its singular walls are considered to date anterior to the time of the Romans j The town stands on the Tormes, which 165 The Castiles. J Route 19 . — Medina del Campo to Zamora. is crossed by a fine bridge, built on Roman foundations. There is a railway in construction to the frontier of Portugal, by Ledesma and Hinojosa. ROUTE 19. MEDINA DEL CAMPO TO ZAMORA. 55 1 m. rail. ; one train daily each way in 3J hrs. j See ‘ Indicador.’ Medina del Campo Stat. Pop. 5123. (See Rte. 1.) Soon after leaying Medina, the Ely. crosses the Rio Zapardiel on an iron bridge. 7 m. Villaverde Stat. Pop. 840. The neighbourhood produces a good white wine. 3J m. Rava del Rey Stat. Pop. 5986. Obs. its fine ch. The neigh- bourhood produces a wine, which al- most equals sherry in taste and in keeping qualities. 13 m. Venta de Polios Stat. Pop. 1172. The river Trabancos is here crossed on a fine iron bridge. The surrounding country is well wooded with oak and mulberry trees. Obs., soon after passing this stat., the white country residence of the Marquis de la Espeja, proprietor of the country around Polios. J m. Castroniino Stat. Pop. 2424. The plain is here very fertile, being watered by the Duero. The rly. now crosses the river upon an iron bridge. 6 m. San Roman Stat. Pop. 1057. At San Roman there is an interesting ch. dedicated to San Roman, founded > by Chindasvintus in the middle of the 8th centy. Although it has been much altered, it still preserves much of the primitive structure. In the relicario may be seen two wooden painted caskets of the 15th centy. The Hornija and the Bajoz are now crossed. 5J m. Toro Stat. Inns: Casa de Huespedes ; Victoriano del Pinero, Calle del Sol. 11., fair. Pop. 7761. This ancient and decayed city, like Salamanca, takes its bridge, and a “ canting Toro,” one of the Guisando breed, for its arms. From its grand bridge we behold those Almenas de Toro, chanted by Lope de Yega. La Colegiata is a fine Romanesque ch. with nave, two aisles and two transepts. The most striking feature of this building is the central tower, domed internally, and of 16 sides externally with 32 windows, two on each of its sides. The aspect, inside and out, is most picturesque. The ancient Romanesque doorway of the principal fa$ade on the W. side, is another of the most important objects of the ch. It is formed of 7 orders completely covered with sculptures, among which is the Last Judgment, and different subjects from the Life of the Virgin. This doorway is in per- fect preservation owing to the ch. having been prolonged in the 16th centy., and the doorway was then converted into a high altar. Some of the statues still have traces of the original colour with which they were painted. A Gothic wooden retdblo with carved canopies has been added to this altar. The principal doorway is now to the N. ; it is also Romanesque and has three concentric arches covered with sculptures and ornamentation. The S. doorway is less fine. In the Capilla Mayor are the tombs of the family of Fonseca. Among them is that of the warrior Bishop Don Alonso, who accompanied the army of Ferdi- nand and Isabel at the battle of Toro. The Romanesque capitals inside the ch. are very remarkable; obs. three near the presbytery and the Gothic statues outside the coro. In the sacristy may be seen jewels and vestments given in 1486 by a 166 Route 20. — Valladolid to Toro . Sect. I. member of the Fonseca family ; a good silver custodia, the work of Juan Gayo in 1538. Part of the custodia, the mril , is of an earlier date, and of great interest. The pictures are indifferent, with the exception of a good painting of the German school, which hangs over the entrance doorway : it repre- sents the Virgin seated reading with the Infant Saviour ; at her feet Saint Catherine. Over the altar in this sa- cristy there is a bas-relief in marble of the Adoration of the Magi. Hospital de la Cruz ( vulgo del obispo). In a chapel of the patio there is a good retablo of the 16th centy. of the Spanish early school of painting. In Santa Catalina there is a fine wooden roof and two good figures of the realistic school of the style of Juni representing San Pedro. Above the high altar there is a splendid ivory crucifix, a good specimen of its kind. The Colegio de los Escolapios has a good patio in the plateresque style, which has been lately restored. The parish Ck. of San Lorenzo may also be visited. The brick facade is good, and the Gothic paintings of the retablo of interest ; they are pro- bably by Gallegos, but unfortunately they are in a very dilapidated con- dition and half hidden by a hideous retablo . Twenty-two only are visible. The eight panels in the centre are larger than those on the sides. The lower ones represent the Life of Our Lord, and the upper the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, the side panels con- tain figures of saints. A grandson of Peter the Cruel is buried there. The ch. of San Julian de los Caballeros contains an interesting carved pulpit of the 16th centy. The architect should visit the Palace of the Marques de Santa Cruz. Obs. the magnificent ceiling of the Salon de los Leyes, where it is said the Cortes de Toro were held in 1371, 1442, and 1505 ; La Torre del Reloj, the house of Los Fonsecas, and the Casa del Ayun- tamiento, in the Plaza de la Consti- tucion, which was built by Ventura Rodriguez. Toro was once a city of considerable importance. It was taken from the rebels in 1356, by Don Pedro in per- son : he entered it by la Puerta Santa Catalina. Near it was fought the battle between Alonso V. of Portugal and Ferdinand I. of Castile (a.d. 1476) ; by which victory the faction of La Beltraneja was destroyed, the defeat of Aljubarota was avenged, and the crown of Castile secured to Isabella. Here again was held (Jan. 1506) the cele- brated Cortes by which, after the death of Isabella, the regal authority of Fer- dinand was recognised. It was at Toro that the Conde Duque , the disgraced minister of Philip IV., died in 1643, haunted, as he imagined, by a spectre — the ghost of his country’s departed greatness which he had himself mainly contributed to destroy. Here, in 1327, Alonso XI. caused the Infante Don Juan to be put to death. From Toro the rly. follows the course of the Duero, which is to the 1. ; it passes through deep cuttings to 13 m. Correses Stat., Pop. 1222, surrounded by vineyards. The rly. now crosses the Rio Valderaduey to 7 m. Zamora Stat., Pop. 14,229. Buffet. Inn: La Salamanquina (see Rte. 15). ROUTE 20. VALLADOLID TO TORO, BY SIMANCAS AND TORDESILLAS. 41 m. The tolerable diligence-road leaves Valladolid by the Puente Mayor. Half-way to Simancas is the Roman- esque Ch. of Arroyo de la Encomienda, well worth visiting ; it is in good pre- servation. 7 m. Simancas. Casa de Huespedes del Hojalatero, bad. It is best there- fore to sleep at Valladolid and drive to Simancas. Pop. 1258. This little Route 20. — Simancas , Tordesillas . 167 The Castiles. town is situated upon the Rio Pisuerga, J which is crossed by a fine bridge of 17 arches. The town is girdled by walls. In the moated castle rising on N.W. side of the' town are kept the national archives, which were removed hither at the suggestion of Cardinal Ximenez. It was upon the battlements of this building that the famous alcalde Bon - quillo hung up Antonio de Acuna , bishop of Zamora, who had joined the Comu- neros. The collection consists of over 100,000 bundles. They are placed in 46 rooms. Mr. Gachard and »Mr. Tiran were the first who were allowed in 1841 to inspect the papers. For- merly the greatest jealousy existed in regard to these archives; now, how- ever, more liberality is shown, and mere visitors are allowed free admis- sion from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. For special permission to copy, &c., apply to the Senor Archivero Mayor, who is obliging and speaks French. Readers of Spanish history will remember Gustav Bergenroth and his able volumes published by the Master of the Rolls ( Calendar of State Papers —Spanish. Yol. i. 1485-1509, vol. ii. 1509-1525, Sup. to vol. i. and ii.*) In a memoir of Mr. Bergenroth by Cartwright, Edinburgh, 1870, full de- tails are given of these archives and the trouble he went through to obtain the cvpher of the documents he pub- lished. In the plain below Simancas, king Ramiro defeated the Moors on the 19th July, 934 (some say 939), killing 30,000, 60,000, or as others say, 80,000 ; and no wonder, for two angels on white horses are said to have fought upon the side of the Spaniards ! (vide Mariana, viii. 5). Simancas defended Enrique IY. against the league in 1465. The Irish rebel, Hugh Roe O’Donnell, died here (September 10th, 1602), hav- ing fled from his country after the defeat of Kinsale. From Simancas the road traverses the valley of the Pisuerga, passing the villages of Yillamarcial, Yillanueva, de Duero, and San Miguel de Pino, to * These volumes are now edited by Don Pascual de Gayangos, who has published four more volumes of this series. 12 m. Tordesillas. Inn : Parador de Val de Huertos. Pop. 3694. This town and ancient fortress holds an important strategic position : its old Gothic arched bridge over the Duero is very pic- turesque; obs. the striking view ob- tained from it ; you have the old town hanging on a declivity, with the ch. of San Antolin, with its belfries, in the centre, and the noble terraces of masonry, the massive chapel of Santa Clara, and the lofty ch. of San Juan, on either side. The town contains six parish churches, amongst which visit The Ch. of San Antolin: its retablo contains a fine Crucifixion, probably by Juan de Juni. Obs. also in this ch. the superb marble sepulchre of the Comen - dador de la orden de San Juan , Pedro Gonzalez de Alderete ; it is the master- piece of Gaspar, a local sculptor, equal to Berruguete, and was wrought in 1527 : it is designed in the style of the royal tombs at Granada, with carya- tides at angles, and other figures and cinquecento ornaments ; the Comen - dador lies armed, with his helmet at his feet. The Nunnery of Santa Clara, which overlooks the river, should be visited next. The Betablo is said to have belonged to Juan II., in the four sepul- chres in niches ; two of them contain female figures, a third is an armed knight, and the fourth is a figure in a turban. The architect Guillem de Roam is buried near these sepulchres : he died Dec. 7th, 1431. Obs. also in this convent the gilt artesonado ceiling of the chancel, and the Chapel of Esteban Lopez de Saldana, which was completed in 1435 : notice the sepulchre of the founder ; it was sadly mutilated by the French, nevertheless the head escaped, and is full of character and intelli- gence. In a building adjoining this con- vent, Juana la Loca (crazy Jane), the mother of Charles V., died, April 12th, 1555, at the age of 76, after 49 years of imprisonment, suggested by her father Ferdinand, and persevered in by her son Charles Y. She occupied a small cell, without windows, rarely permit- ted to see the sun. The story that she spent her time watching her hus- 168 band’s coffin is not quite correct. He was buried in Sta. Clara, while the monument at Grenada was preparing ; but in 25 years she never visited it.* The morbid taint of her insanity broke out again in her descendants; it induced her son Charles Y. to die a monk at Yuste ; it tinged the gloomy bigotry of Philip II., who lived half monk, half monarch, in his cell at the Escorial; and it showed itself again in the Habsburg Charles II., who died in confirmed imbecility. In a house adjoining this convent Napoleon I. was lodged, Dec. 25th, 1808. Tordesillas was the centre of the rebellion of the Comuneros ; its ring- leaders being here defeated by the Conde de Haro. 10 J m. Villalar. Pop. 833. This little vil. situated on the 1. bank of the Rio Hornilla, was the scene of the exe- cution of the brave chiefs of the Comu- neros, Padilla , Bravo , and Maldonado, who were beheaded April 23rd, 1512 : the post is preserved upon which their heads were stuck for public exhibition. 8J m. Morales de Toro. Pop. 1581. Here the great Queen Isabella was born. 3 m. Toro. Pop. 7761. Inn : Casa de Victoriano Piniero. (See Rte. 19.) ROUTE 21. VALLADOLID TO BENAVENTE, BY MEDINA DE BIO-SECO. 55 m. Valladolid. (See Rte. 1.) Leaving Valladolid by the Puerta del Puente Mayor, the diligence-road passes 3 m. Zaratan. Pop. 1294. 4J m. Villanubla. Pop. 1321. 4 1 m. La Mudarra. The Rio Se- quillo is crossed by a stone bridge, between this hamlet and * Read ‘Supplement to Calendar of State Papers — Spain,’ edited by Bergenroth. Sect. I. 13 m. Medina de Rio-Seco. Pop. 345. Inn : Parador del Carmen. Pop. 4755. This “city of the dry river,” the Roman Forum Egurrorum, with its old gates and damaged walls, stands in the midst of a cereal plain, which was once a vast lake, before the basin of fresh-water limestone was drained by the Duero and its tributaries. It had important fairs for the sale of its cloth and linen in the 14tli centy. Visit first the Ch. of Santa Maria, a Gothic edifice, which commands the town; its high tower was erected so recently as 1738. The Betablo of the altar mayor is divided by fluted Corinthian pillars, with bases and pediments supported by naked children, and is considered one of the finest in Spain : it represents inci- dents in the lives of the Saviour and Virgin. Carved in 1590 by Esteban Jordan, and painted by Pedro de Ofia, his son-in-law, reds and blues predo- minate. Obs. in it the grand Ascen- sion of the Virgin. The whole retablo recalls the noble work of Becerra at Astorga. La Capilla de los Bena- ventes, to the 1., was once a gem of plateresque and sculpturesque art : now all is decay and neglect. The plateresque reja was made by Fran- cisco Martinez, 1554 ; obs., above an arch, the medallions of the founder’s family and their arms. The retablo was carved by Juan de Juni; obs. the San Joaquin and Santa Ana, and above the Buenaventuranza, or the mystical beatitude of the Saviour in the Apocalypse, with a sea rilled with the bodies of the dead rising up to judgment. The gilding is much tar- nished by damp and neglect, which have also ruined the Creation of Adam and Eve, and the paintings of Juni on the semicircular arch. Notice over the door the portrait of the founder, Alvaro Benavente. set. 50, and the three fine tombs, separated by carya- tides. The paintings at the back of the niches have been ascribed to Juni. Obs. the Santa Ana in bed, and two kneeling figures. There are four pictures in this ch. either by Murillo or Tobar, for it is not easy to decide, owing to their dirty condition and position; the subjects Boute 21 . — Valladolid to Benavente. The Castiles. Route 21 . — Medina de Rio-Seco, Benavente . 169 are a large oblong Nativity, a charming St. Catherine, a kneeling Magdalen, and full-length Madonna and Child, which is the finest. Among other interesting objects which are kept in the sacristjr, may be mentioned the Custodia by Antonio de Arfe, covered with silver figures and delicate orna- mentation. The classical facade of Santa Cruz is heavy ; on it are represented sculp- tured Sibyls, the Finding of the Cross, and two tiers of Corinthian pilasters. It was founded by the great Don Fadrique Enrique, Admiral of Castile, of whose palace in the town a gate is all that has escaped ruin. The tombs and kneeling figures of himself and his wife, Ana de Cabrera, are in the convent of San Francisco, with some good terracotta statues of St. Jerome and St. Sebastian : the carv- ing of the choir seats is very fine, although of the beginning of the 18th centy. The reja was made by Andino 1532. Obs. a small Gothic organ in one of the chapels, and a very fine ivory crucifix. This convent itself was built with the materials of the old castle which withstood so many sieges in the time of Don Pedro and Charles V. Outside the town are the pleasant promenades La Horquilla, and El Arbol grande. From Medina de Rio-Seco, good diligence-roads lead to Zamora, Toro, Leon, and Palencia; it is a central point for interesting excursions. The route now follows the Carretera de Galicia, near the villages of Pala- zuelo de Bedija, Pop. 1187, and Vil- lasper, Pop. 147, to 7 m. Villafrechos. Pop. 1507. 3J m. Santa Eufemia. (Near this hamlet, of 420 Inhab., is the village of Quintanilla del Monte.) 7J Villalpando. Pop. 2897. Situ- ated in the centre of a fertile plain watered by the Rio Valderaduey, this little village occupies the site of a former city containing 50,000 Inhab., which fell into decay when Rio-Seco rose at its expense. The original city, being built of mud, has mostly disap- peared. Here we join the Camino Real high road, which connects Madrid with la Coruna. 3| m. Los Cerecinos, two small vil- lages, divided the one from the other by a ravine. 5J m. Castro Gonzalo. Pop. 1020. Charmingly situated in a valley, with its Moorish fortress, and its church of San Miguel with an imperfect tower. 3 1 m. Benavente. Inns : Posada de Cuesta ; Posada de Zidon : both close together outside the Puerta de la Soledad. Pop. 4051. This dull and poverty-stricken town, on the Esla, chiefly of mud-built cot- tages, rises upon a gentle eminence. Ascend to its Castle, the Alcazar of the Pimentels, a family now merged in the Osuna dukedom. Once the great lion of the place, it is inferior in size and details to many a Welsh castle, whilst a considerable portion of it is built of mere cob. It is entered by an arch between two towers, with a defaced Santiago on horseback over the portal. The Torre Pastel bears the date “Mayo 20, 1462.” Here are the arms of the Pimentels, once the powerful Counts of Benavente, the sheikhs or lords of all around, to whose ancestor the castle was granted in 1394.* The inside is all a ruin, having been gutted by Soult when retreating from Oporto. The patio is still strewed with frag- ments of sculpture. In the upper storey was the state gallery, where some remains still exist of Moorish tarlrish and azulejo in the windows, together with a portion of the grand staircase. The view over the bald plains of Leon and mountains towards la Puebla de Sanabria is extensive ; the river front is the strongest, and the view from it is the most picturesque. The coarse masonry is ornamented with a huge stone chain and the projecting balls so common at Toledo ; below are what were the gardens of the Duchess, be- fore desolated by the destroyer. A pretty walk, el Caracol, leads under the trees and by a trout- stream. The Ch.f of Santa Maria del Azogue * For details of what Benavente was in the 16th centy., read the interesting ‘Yiaje de Felipe II. a Inglaterra/ edited by Gayangos, Mad., 1877. f See a view of it ip Street, 170 Sect. I. Route 22 . — Medina del Campo to Segovia . is an interesting edifice erected circa 1170-1220. Obs. its N. doorway, and the lofty tower of singular design, which rises over its northern bay : the mason’s marks, as is usual in most early churches, are plentiful. The plan of the ch. is cruciform, with five apses projecting from the E. end. The general effect is fine, owing to the rich character of the details. The S. tran- sept (1210-20) has a fine round-headed doorway : obs. the Agnus Dei sur- rounded by angels in the tympanum, and the four Evangelists with their emblems in one order of the arch. The W. front has been modernised. The Ch. of San Juan del Mercado should also be visited. The S. door- way is singularly rich: obs. at mid- height of the shafts (carved with acan- thus-leaves) the six figures of saints : also the adoration of the magi, and the angels sculptured around. The W. front has also a fine doorway. [13 m. distant is Villanueva del Campo, Pop. 2802, and in another direction, 13 m., Villarin de Campos, Pop. 1230, in each of which a great festival is held in honour of their tutelar saint. It is held in the former place on the 14th Sept., and in the latter upon the last Sunday in Sept. Every devotee, upon these occasions, presents as much corn to the saint as he or she weighs, when put into the scale by the curate. A fancy fair, bullfight, and ball follow after the re- ligious ceremonies.] From Benavente to Zamora, see Rte. 65 ; to Orense, see Rte. 62. EOUTE 22. MEDINA DEL CAMPO TO SEGOVIA, BY OLMEDO AND LA GBANJA. 57 m. (No Diligence Service. Rail- road in progress.) Medina del Campo (Bte. 1). 4} m. Laguna. Pop. 969. Situated upon the edge of a saline marsh, from whence the hamlet derives its name. The villages of Mojados, Cega, Alca- zaren, and Puente Medina, are now passed to 20 J m. Olmedo. Inn: Posada della Plaza, indifferent. The white wine in this district is excellent. Pop. 2500. This decayed walled town, once an im- portant place, is celebrated for the bloody battles which took place here during the civil wars of 1445-67. The town is situated in a plain, watered by the Adaja and the Eresma. Obs., in the Church of San Andres, a retdblo by Berruguete, with pictures of his school ; visit also the subterranean chapel of San Miguel. Railway in construction from Me- dina del Campo, by Olmedo and Santa Maria de la Nieva, to Segovia. A dreary waste of sand and um- brella-headed pine-groves leads to the village of Villeguillo, which is situated upon the borders of Old Castile : the road now becomes bad, and the country depopulated and arid. 10 m. Coca. Inn : Posada del Arco. Pop. 810. Coca lies between the rivers Eresma and Volloya. The castle is a grand specimen of a genuine Castilian palace-fortress of the Gothic mediaeval period. Obs. the projecting balistaria, the angular turrets of the great donjon-keep, la tor re mocha. The superb towers rise like those of the Alcazar at Segovia ; the barbican framework is also remarkable. Obs. in the Parroquia of Coca some marble pillars and four tombs of the Fonseca family. 13 m. Santa Maria de Meva. Para- dor de Pedro Gomez good. Pop. 1360. In this thriving town there are several small manufactories of coarse cloth and linen. The ascents from this point to Segovia are superb. 9 m. Segovia. Pop. 11,172. Inn: Fonda del Aguila; Casa de Hues- pedes; La Burgalesa (see Rte. 3). The Castiles. Routes 23, 24:.~Guadarrama Pass , Palencia . 171 ROUTE 23. SAN CHIDRIAN TO MADRID— PASSAGE OP THE GUADARRAMA MOUNTAINS. 61 m. Sail Chidrian Stat. (Pop. 976) on the Northern Ely. (see Rte. 1). Near here the ascent of the granite range of theCarpetanian mountains commences. The Sierra de Guadarrama separates the basins of the Tagus and the Duero. The road traverses the old Carretera general de Castilla to 3 m. Labajos (Pop. 896), where a fine bridge crosses the Almarza. 8 m. Yillacastin. Inn : Posada del Arco. Pop. 1271. Obs. its Gothic ch. ; it contains some paintings by Alonso Herrera. The marble quarried near this place is excellent. The road now becomes steep, the scenery savage and grand : we pass to the 1. the village of las Navas de San Antonio, and afterwards the group of four houses occupied as ‘ ventas (inns) by the peones camineros (conserva- tors of the roads). This excellently engineered road, which was constructed in 1749 by Ferdinand VI., now ascends to the Puerto, where a marble lion marks the extreme height of the pass (5094 feet above the sea-level) : it also marks the boundary between Old and New Castile, the former lying spread below like a map. Napoleon I. led his army over this granite wilderness, on Christmas Eve 1808, in a forced march from Madrid to Benavente, after hearing news of Moore’s advance from the N.W., which deranged his plans. The losses suffered by his brave veterans on this march were very great, yet they pushed on through the snow and biting blasts, spite of the elements, Napoleon himself dismount- ing and walking through the snow in order to encourage his troops. “ Shall a mole-hill in Spain,” cried he, “ check the conquerors of St. Bernard ?” The road now rapidly descends, passing the Venta F de Juan Calvo: to the rt. (6 m. distant) is seen the mag- nificent pile of the Escoria.1. 21 m. Guadarrama. Pop. 734. 5J m. Villalba. Pop. 572. Stat. on the Northern Ely. Hence Rail to 23§ m. Madrid Stat. (See Ete. 1.) ROUTE 24. VENTA DE BANOS TO SANTANDER, BY PALENCIA AND REINOSA. RAIL. 142 m. One through train daily in about 10 hrs. Venta de Banos. Pop. 545. Stat. on the Northern Ely. (See Ete. 1.) 6 m. Palencia Junct. Pop. 14,603. (Here the rail to Leon branches to the 1.) § 1. Inns, Cafe, Casino, Theatre. Inns : The best, Casa de Hues- pedes; Viuda de Masa, 34 rs. Fonda en la Calle Mayor. Parador del Norte, near the Stat., indifferent, 20 rs. Cafe : El Imnerial, under the casino El Siglo. Casino : in the Cuatro Cantones ,* no foreign papers, but strangers ad- mitted on showing their cards. Theatre: Calle de Burgos. Perform- ances only during some seasons of the year. § 2. Historical Notice. This ancient city, the Pallantia of the Romans and the seat of the first university founded in the Castiles, is situated upon the Eio Carrion, which is crossed by a good stone bridge, and by another called los Puentecillos. The University was founded in 1208, and greatly increased, but was moved to Salamanca in 1239. The Alamedas round the walls should be noticed, being 36 feet high by 9 in thickness. 172 Boute 2&.— Palencia : Cathedral. Sect. I. They were laid out in 1778 by the Intendente Carrasco. Those on the little island, by the bridge built by the Archdeacon Aguarin, occupy the site where a grand tournament was given to Charles Y. Palencia is healthy and cold; it stands with its trees, an oasis in the wide shelterless plain. One long street, la Mayor, intersects the town, running from the gates Monzon and del Mercado. Roman antiquities are constantly being found in the environs of Palencia. A Roman cemetery has been discovered to the right on the road to Monzon. Some slabs and other specimens have been sent to the Museum at Madrid. The town, well placed for commerce on its river and canal, is famous for its manufactories of linens and picturesque woollen rugs worn by the women over their heads. § 3. Cathedral. The Cathedral was begun in 1321 and finished in the 16th centy. on the site of one raised by Don Fruela over the cave of San Antolin, to whom this church, in common with many others in these districts, is dedicated. The architecture of this church is defective on account of the variety of periods during which it has been built. It follows no order, but the interior is in the highest degree picturesque. The oldest construction is at the clievet , the rest was decorated in the 16th centy., and in the Renaissance style. Obs., in the admirably decorated Camilla mayor , the fine retablo, re- formed in 1530, composed of 12 paint- ings and 26 compartments of sculp- tured figures. The paintings and carvings are by a German hand. At the sides are two Gothic sepulchres of Francisco Nunez and Rodrigo En- riquez. The small altar and retablo near them is of great interest. The Reja, by Francisco Villalpando, a native of Palencia, and pulpits, deco- rated with fine bassi-rilievi in the Renaissance style, are very fine. Be- tween the presbytery and coro is buried Luis Cabeza de Yaca, ob. 1556, the master of the Emperor Charles Y. The Gothic choir seats are the best thing in th e church. They are Flemish in style, but were carved in 1410 by the Yalencian sculptor Centellas, and i enlarged in 1519 by Pedro de Guada- lupe. Outside the coro at each side are two Gothic and Renaissance altars. The retablo at the back of the coro was ordered from Flanders by Bishop Fonseca. It is covered with figures and ornamentation in the florid Gothic style. The wooden carved pulpit, richly decorated with figures and ornamentation of the 16th centy., is worthy of attention . Obs. the interest - ing Flemish triptych, on panel, of the 16th centy. It is divided into 8 com- partments, representing the life of our Lord ; in the centre and largest panel the Donatario is represented kneeling before the Yirgin. On the side doors there is the following inscription : “ Anno de m d v. El reverendo e magnifico sehor don Juan de Fonseca por la gracia de dios obispo de Palen- cia conde de pina mando hazer esta ymagen de nostra senora de la com- passion estando enFlandespor enbaxa- dor con el sehor rey don Felipe de Castilla e con la reina doua Juana nuestros sehores. ,, At the foot of the altar is the stair- case which leads into the cave of San Antolin : it contains nothing of artistic interest. The chapel de los Curas is isolated in the same manner as the Capilla Mayor, in the centre of the church. On one of its walls on high may be seen the tomb of Queen Doha Urraca, who died in 1189. Several interesting sepulchres of the 15th and 16th centys. will be found in the outer walls of this chapel. Six chapels are placed outside it ; that of San Isidoro contains a tomb with an altar frontal of Spanish leather; that of Sta. Marta la Blanca several sepulchres. Obs. the one of Pedro de Pina, ob. 1403. The plateresque ornamentation in San Pedro is very effective. The painted glass is by Maestro Santillana. The cathedral is full of remarkable monuments, which are scattered through the different chapels. Some of the iron railings in the chapels near the chevet are good. The Castiles. Bte. 24 . — Palencia to Santander : Churches . 178 The two doorways which lead to the cloister are interesting. The one opposite the choir is Gothic ; the centre figure of the Virgin is good. This door was built in 1535. Near the plateresque doorway, which leads to the cloister, is the Sala Capitular. It contains many good pictures. Among them obs. a fine example of Mateo Cerezo; a St. Peter by Ri- vera ; Sta. Rosa, by Zurbaran ; two early German pictures — a Crucifixion, and Virgin and Child. Ask to see a Persian carpet of the 15th centy. The cloister is not worth visiting. In the sacristy is kept the splendid custodia made in 1582 by Arfe and Juan de Benavente. A silver casket, of Italian Renaissance work, is attri- buted to Cellini. The vestments are splendid, the gift of different prelates. The altar frontals are very good. En- quire for the church vestments ( term ), embroidered with corals. 4. Churches. San Pablo, to the N.W. of the town, was formerly a Dominican convent built in the 15th centy. The choir seats are good, but the principal objects of interest in this church are the superb sepulchres of the Rojas family, with the statues of the Marquis ofPoza and his wife (1557), which are justly con- sidered the best specimens of Re- naissance sculpture which exist at Palencia. The Church of San Miguel is inter- esting, 12th and 13th centy. The plan is composed of three aisles, which terminate in apses, and is one of the best examples of a Spanish parish church existing. The W. doorway, not- withstanding its horrible mutilations, is very fine: it represents the Last Judg- ment and scenes from the life of our Lord. The steeple also is good. San Francisco is a church of the same period, but not of the same im- portance. An interesting sepulchre may be seen in one of the chapels. The Ch. of San Lazaro and Santa Clara possesses some remains of the 15th and 16th centys. A picture behind the high altar of San Francisco has been attributed to Andrea del Sarto. From Palencia the rly. continues through environs thickly dotted with manufactories of linen, cloth, &c. Obs. to the rt. a conical hill, at the top of which is the hermitage of the Cristo de Otero. 8£ m. Monzon de Campos Stat. (Pop. 797), is situated in the centre of a plain, out of which rise two hills with the ruins of castles at the top of each. 5 m. Amusco Stat. Pop. 1690. The immediate neighbourhood is thickly populated. Obs. its ch. ; the altar mayor represents the 12 Apostles, with St. Peter, attired in pontifical robes, in the centre. The fete day of the patron saint takes place on the Sunday which follows the 15th of August : it is a grand occasion, with bull-fights, fire- works, and dancing. 3J m. Pina de Campos Stat. Pop. 1180. In the immediate neighbour- hood are the ruins of a castle with embattled towers. Near this vill. the Canal de Castilla, and the Rio Ucieza are crossed by the rly. 3 m. Fromista Stat. Pop. 1601. The Romanesque Church of San Martin is interesting. In the Church of Santa Maria are some good Gothic paintings. [About 10 m. to the 1. is the town of Carrion de los Condes. Pop. 3400. A diligence leaves from the station. The parish Church of Santa Maria is very ancient. The only thing that remains of the Ch. of Santiago is the fine Romanesque doorway covered with sculptures. The church was burnt by the French. The former Benedictine convent of San Zoil has a splen- did cloister (1537-1577), richly orna- mented with sculptures. It was built by Juan de Badajoz, Castrillo, and others. The choir-seats and iron rail- ing from the monastery of Benevivero (now in ruins) have been removed to San Andres.] 3 m. Marcilla Stat. Pop. 523. 3 m. Las Cabanas Stat. Pop. 317. 6 m. Osorio la Mayor Stat. Pop. 1328. After passing this stat. twe bridges are crossed, which span the rivers Abanade and Buedo. 174 Sect. I. 'Route 24 . — Herrera 5§ m. Espinosa de Villagonzalo Stat. An ancient walled town now contain- ing scarcely 677 inhabitants. The rly. has been here excellently engineered, and the expense of its construction was exceedingly heavy. 7 m. Herrera Stat. Pop. 1527. Obs. the picturesque ruins of a Moorish castle. A fine bridge of 4 arches crosses the Rio Pisuerga. 4 m. Alar del Rey Stat. Pop. 732. Inn : Fonda, at the Rly. Stat. Here ends the Canal de Castilla. 6J m. Mave Stat. To the rt., at a little distance from this stat., the Rio Pisuerga enters a curious and highly picturesque gorge between vertical rocks. 5 i m. Aguilar de Campos Stat. Pop. 1436. Obs. two hills, each crowned with a ruined castle : the one belonged to the Lords of Aguilar, the other to that brave warrior Bernardo del Car- pio. The ancient Convent of Santa Maria, situated in a beautiful valley at the foot of one of its hills, is inter- esting. It is, however, sadly dilapi- dated, and most of the fine capitals it contained have been taken to the Madrid “ Museo Arqueologico.” In a cave near this, it is said, are buried Bernardo del Carpio, and Fernando Gallo, his right-hand man in war. Visit also the Romanesque ch. of Santa Cecilia, and the parish church of San Miguel, early pointed. The coalfields of Orbo and Cervera may be reached from Aguilar, and from this point the botanist, artist, and angler may make for the romantic district of the Liebana. This wild and ill-used arboretum lies in the midst of crater- like valleys. The chief place, the picturesque town of Potes (for which there is a diligence from Torrelavega Stat. on the Rly. p. 175), will be good head-quarters; it is situated at a point where the four charming valleys of del Prado, Val de Baro, Cereceda, and Cillorigo conjoin. This detour will lead the angler into one of the finest trout-fishing districts in Spain: the sport in the rivers Deva, Nansa, and Sal is excellent. The forests of the Liebana, although much neg- lected, are magnificent. , Potes, Reinosa. 3J m. Quintanilla Stat. Pop. 756. To the 1. a small branch line, 3 m. long, leads to the coal-mines of Bar- ruelo. To the rt. are the villages of Cuena and Menaza, situated in a fer- tile plain watered by the Rio Carnesa. 4J m. Mataporquera Stat. To the rt. the pleasant valley of Hormiguera, to the 1. after leaving the stat., the small hamlet of Maturrepudio is passed. 5J m. Pozazal Stat. Highest point of the line (3229 ft. above the sea- level). [After leaving this station, to the 1. is the village of Cervatos; its Parroquia is a particularly fine speci- men of the Romanesque style of archi- tecture. The facade of the principal entrance is sculptured with groups composed of figures in the most ex- travagant and indecent postures. This ch. probably dates from about the middle of the 11th centy. The interior is without merit.] The rly. now passes the village of Matamorosa (1) with its mineral springs, and Fontibre (Puentes de Ebro), near which is the source of the Rio Ebro : it gushes forth from a wild and rocky source, and flows 342 miles through the Rioja, and divides Aragon. 7 m. Reinosa Stat. Buffet. Taste the good pantortillas and rosquillas. Pop. 2952. Height above sea-level, 2779 ft. This tidy little town has a good street, and a bridge over the beautiful Ebro. It is a busy place, frequented by carriers: the fairs of July 25 and Sept. 21 are attended by most picturesquely dressed peasants and Pasiegas. The mountainous dis- trict by which it is surrounded is called las Montanas de Santander. Some of the passes to the N.W. are very high : the Portillo de Lasia rises 3800 ft. and de Lunada 3400 ft. above the sea-level. There is excellent shooting and fishing amongst these wild hills. After leaving Reinosa the railway crosses the Ebro over an iron bridge : immediately afterwards a tunnel of 1,500 meters is entered ; after leaving it the road follows the course of the Besaya. The difficulties in engineering the line were very great ; there are 20 tunnels within 20 in. After the tunnel The Casfciles. Boute 24 —Santiurde, Torrelavega . 175 of Pena Uncion is passed the country becomes very grand and beautiful. To the right on a hill surrounded by trees is the church of Aldueso. The hamlet of Lantueno (Pop. 200) nestles in the valley. 7 m. Santiurde Stat. Pop. 1201. Try to get a seat on the right hand. The railroad here rises to a consi- derable elevation over the Besaya, shortly after descending through fine masses of calcareous rocks. The road is often supported by stone supports, which rise more than 100 m. over the torrent. Two tunnels are passed be- fore reaching 4 m. Pesquera Stat. Pop. 399. [5 m. from this station, at Aguayo, are cala- mine (carbonate of zinc) mines.] Here a series of tunnels are passed. The river Besaya may be seen in the valley. The beautiful valley of Barcena is in front. After leaving the tunnel of Campo Postrero, the road is 200 m. over the valley. It suddenly takes a sharp turn before reaching Montabliz Stat. The river Galeron is crossed after leaving it, and four tunnels traversed. After passing the r. Pugayo, the valley of Barcena is entered, the village of Pie de Concha is passed; the 22nd tunnel leading the railroad along the valley of the Besaya to the station of 6 m. Barcena Stat. Pop. 881. The road continues in the mountains soon after reaching 2 m. Portolin Stat., the extreme end of the curve which is taken by the railway appears in the valley between Las Llosas and La Beal. To the rt., in the midst of a well-cultivated plain, lie the villages of Elguera and La Serna. 2 m. Santa Cruz Stat. Pop. 1731. a beautiful valley surrounded by ver- durous hills. 1 m. Las Fraguas Stat. Obs. to the 1. a modern country mansion sur- rounded by walled-in gardens, belong- ing to the Marquis de Moriana. Near it is a square tower which forms part of what once was a manorial palace. Four tunnels are here passed, and , the beautiful and well-cultivated valley of Buelda opens to the 1. 5 m. Los Corrales Stat. Pop. 1951. 3 m. Las Caldas de Besaya Stat. Here is a Thermal Establishment : the mineral waters (chlor. sod.) are very efficacious in paralytic disorders. Be- sides El Establecimiento there are several comfortable lodging-houses, and the walks in the neighbourhood are pleasant. In the monastery there is an ancient image of the Virgin, rendered hideous by a modern dress. A delightful walk may be taken from here to the village of Yermo, about 3 m. The view from the summit be- fore reaching the village is superb. Visit the small church of Yermo : the village itself is like Arcadia. The church is of the 12 th centy. Outside are interesting stone carvings, repre- senting St. George and the signs of the zodiac. At the entrance to the rt. is the inscription : EREMOS XTI DE SANTA MARIA ESTA IGLESA PETRO QUINTANA ME FECIT PATER NOSTER POR SA AIMA. 4J m. Torrelavega Stat. Posada; Viuda de Carral; 16 rs. per day; De Tiburcio. This is the station to which the diligences from Asturias carry their passengers. A small cafe supplying indifferent food stands opposite the railway station. The town, nearly 2 m. distant, is well built and has a thrive ing aspect. It would be good head^ quarters for an angler. Diligences leave the station for difi ferent routes, and the country abounds with fine walks and rides, and trout- fishing may be had very near the town* Near Torrelavega are the Beal Astur- iana Calamine Mines of Riocin. Pop. 7187. The town is situated 2 m. from the stat. and below it in the centre of a magnificent plain. Soon after leaving this stat. the rly; crosses the Rio Paz by an iron bridge to 4J m. Renedo Stat. From hence there is an omnibus service during the 176 Boute 24. — Santander. Sect. I. season to the baths of Alceda and Ontaneda. (See Rte. 25.) 6 m. Guarnizo Stat. Pop. 250. To the rt. the Bay of Santander is seen. 1| m. Boo Stat. Pop. 400. Near this stat. (to the rt.) are the Royal dockyards, called el Astillero de Guar- nizo , where ships of any tonnage can be built. Three miles from Astillero are the saline waters of Solares, highly recommended for gastralgic disorders. Hence opens out a splendid pano- rama, comprising views of Santander, the sea, &c. Approaching the city the works and warehouses of the Rail- way Company are passed to the 1. SANTANDER. Index. Page $ 1. Inns, Cafe, Theatre, Public Gardens . 176 § 2. Carriages, Tramway, Bull-ring. . .176 $ 3. Post and Telegraph Office, Clubs, “Consuls, Banker, Protestant Chapel 176 $ 4. Notice, History 176 9 5. Cathedral, Tobacco Manufactory . .177 $ 6. Excursions 177 $ 7. Steamers 178 § 1. Inns, Cafe, Theatre, Public Gardens. 5J m. Santander. Terminus. Inns : Fonda Suiza ; Fonda de Francia. Charges about 30 r. a day. Fonda del Comercio, on the Muelle (quay). Fonda de Europa. Strangers in fine weather should prefer the hotels at the Magdalena and Sardinero. Fare from either place for a carriage from the railway station, 12 rs. Cafe Suizo, on the Muelle (quay). Theatre . Built in 1837 out of the old convent San Agustin : it accom- modates 1000 visitors. Prices palco, 30 r. ; stall, 8 r. Public Gardens. At Toca and Ma- zarrasa : in these pleasure resorts bailes campestres are frequently given during the summer. § 2. Carriages, Tramway, Bull-ring. Carriages to be taken to the Sardi- nero, 2 r. each person. Good carriages. Francisco Lama, Calle del 24 de Se- tiembre. Tramway to the Sardinero and round the town, starting from the Plaza del Principe. Bull-ring. Built in 1859. Places for 8000 spectators. Fights in the month of September. § 3. Post and Telegraph Office, Clubs, Consuls, Banker, Protes- tant Chapel. Post-office on the Plazuela de Be- cedo. Telegrapli-office in the Casa de la Torrente, Muelle de las Naos. Open day and night. Circulo del Recreo, Muelle 11. Strangers admitted on introduction by a member. Regatta Club. Foreign papers. This society has done a great deal towards encouraging regattas, and preparing lifeboats and help for boats in distress. English Vice-Consul. Lieutenant March, R.N., on the quay. U.S.A. Consul. A. H. Harrison. Banker. Lucas Zuniga. Capilla Evangelica and School. § 4. Notice, History. Santander (Pop. 40,432) is a thriving seaport town, situated on a wide estu- ary opening to the east, and separated from the sea by a rocky promontory which gives good shelter from N. and N.W. winds. On the side of this pro- montory, facing the Atlantic, is the Sardinero, where there are several hotels and a Casino with reading-room, &c., besides several lodging-houses. Close at hand, but facing south, is the bathing establishment of La Magda- lena, with an excellent hotel kept by a Frenchman. M. Fourneau charges 9 fr. a day for meals at table d’hote at 12 and 8 p.m., 10 fr. a day for meals served apart. A small railway connects these places with the town about a mile distant, and a little steamer plies also from the Magdalena. The quay and handsome modern houses give Santander rather a French than a Spanish look. The busy quay (Muelle), with its cotton bales, hogsheads of sugar, flour-barrels, and bustle, con- 177 The Gastiles. Bonte 24. — Cathedral , Excursions . trasts with the fishy poverty of the old town, especially the quarter of San Pedro. Here porters’ work, as in Bilbao, is done by women, if such androgynous epicene Amazons can be so called. The local carts with solid creaking wheels are very coffin-looking concerns. The environs of Santander are plea- sant, and studded with country houses and orchards, whilst the orange-tree and citron grow luxuriantly. The fresh - aired walks on the hill command beautiful views over the Ria, the Muelle de las Kaos, and the Castillo de San Felipe. The promenades are charming: the Paseo del Sardinero leads to the bathing establishment, and to the lighthouse ; the Alamedas Primera and Segunda are the most fashionable promenades. Santander was probably the Roman Portus Blendium ; it has long been a seaport : from hence, in 1248, St. Ferdi- nand’s fleet sailed to blockade Seville, which is commemorated upon the city arms. Here Charles Y. landed July 16, 1522, to take possession of Spain ; and from the same quay our Charles I. embarked to quit Spain after his ro- mantic visit to Madrid: he arrived here on the 11th Sept., 1623 (old style, i.e. on St. Matthew’s day, the 21st). and was nearly drowned on Friday the 12th (22nd), when going on board his ship : he sailed on the 17th of the same month, and landed at Portsmouth on the 5th of October (Sunday) to the inexpressible joy of the English nation, although 26 years afterwards his then loyal subjects were equally ready to ! assist at his execution. Santander was made a puerto habilitado (a port en- titled to trade with South America) in 1753, and in 1755 it was declared a ciudad (or city). The place was cruelly sacked by Soult, Nov. 16th, 1808; but, in spite of this ferocious treatment, the authorities exhibited the most offensive behaviour to the English, their allies. Again in 1834, when General Sir De Lacy Evans landed with his legion, they refused the barest necessities to those brave men whose assistance they had them- selves implored. [Spain, 1882.] Santander was the scene of an en- gagement between the revolutionary troops and the royalist forces, com- manded by General Calonge, during the short and feeble struggle made on behalf of ex-Queen Isabel, in Sept, 1868. Santander is the residence of the provincial authorities, and the see of a bishop — suffragan to Burgos — which was founded (1174) by Alonso IX. § 5. Cathedral, Tobacco Manu- factory. The Cathedral is Gothic : its curious crypt is called la Capilla del Cristo de Abajo; it has also three aisles, and is of a very fine effect, although it was barbarously repainted in 1874. On its altar are preserved the heads of the martyrs San Emeterio and San Celedonio, decapitated at Cala- horra about the year 300 a.d. (see Rte. 160). The baptismal font in this cathedral is an Arabian one, with an Arabic inscription, like the Pope’s chair at St. Peter’s, in Rome. It was probably brought from Anda- lucia after Seville was taken by St. Ferdinand. Vessels from Santander joined in this siege. The cloister of the Cathedral is good, and the tower, built on a pointed arch, is pleasing in effect. Visit the Tobacco Manufactory : it was originally el Convento de Santa Cruz, and employs more than 1000 persons in the manufacture of cigars, of which 796,000 Klg. are turned out annually. § 6. Excursions. Excursions . Walk or drive out to the mineral spring de la Salud, dis- tant 2 m. : it is much frequented from June to October for visceral disorders. Visit also the Astillero de Guarnizo (Royal Dockyard). Boats every hour from the quay : tariff 1 r. Geologists may visit the Cave of Camargo, 4| m. from Santander, where a great number of interesting fossil remains of all kinds were discovered in 1880. N 178 Sect. I. Btes. 25, 26 . — Santander to Logrono . § 7. Steamers. The service of coast steamers is most irregular. The French West Indian steamers call here, and offer an easy way to Bordeaux and St. Nazaire. Steamers to Gijon, Vigo, La Coruna, Cadiz, and Barcelona, at frequent in- tervals (times of sailing uncertain, inquire at the steam-shipping offices on the quay) to Havana the 20th of each month; to Liverpool, to London, to Hamburg monthly. Diligences: Daily to Bilbao and Oviedo, and to every important town in the province. Some are in com- bination with the railroads. Two diligences, the one following the coast, the other going inland. ROUTE 25. SANTANDER TO THE BATHS OF PUENTE VIESGO, ONTANEDA, AND ALCEDA. RAILWAY AND DILIGENCE. Santander Stat. (See Rte. 24.) The Ely. S. is taken as far as 12 m. Renedo Stat. (Rte. 24). From Renedo there are several dili- gences daily during the season. Fares to Puente Viesgo, 10 r. ; to Alceda, 19 r. The road passes through the villages of Carandia and Vargas, to 4| m. Puente Viesgo. Pop* 1663. Inn : El Establecimiento. Open from 1st June to 30th of September. The mineral waters issue from the lime- stone rock, pure and inodorous ; they are efficacious in rheumatic disorders, scrofula, and in the general treatment of skin diseases. The)! baths are 6 in number; the largest will contain 28 persons at a time ; the remaining five will accommodate 3 persons at a time. Leaving Puente Viesgo the roads to the two other baths part, the one (A) traverses the pleasant valley of Toranzo, and through the villages of Villegar and San Vicente (1716) to 9 m. Ontaneda. Inns: Fonda de Villafranca ; Fonda de La Martina; Establecimiento (open from 10th June to 30th September) : this spacious hotel will accommodate 100 persons at a time ; it contains a salle a manger , which will dine 100 persons at once, a billiard-room, reading-room, and music saloon. The sulphurous waters gush forth in great abundance from the surface of the rock, and impregnate the air around with the odour of rotten eggs. The water is peculiarly effica- cious in cutaneous diseases, and is taken internally as well as in the shape of a bath. The second road (B) goes to the baths of — 9 m. Alceda. Inns: Two Estable - cimientos (open from 10th June to 30th September). This still more im- portant Thermal establishment lies ensconced in the lovely vale of the Toranzo . The volume of water is much greater than at Ontaneda, and the accommodation for invalids more com- plete : mud-baths, as well as the douche, the vapour, and the ordinary bath are here given. ROUTE 26. BURGOS TO LOGRONO, BY NAVARRETE. 79J m. Burgos (Rte. 1.). This old diligence-road is now dis- used, the rly. to Logrono, via Miranda, having superseded it. Leaving Burgos the road traverses an uninteresting country to 3 m. Zalduendo. Pop. 249. In the valley of Atapuerca, near this place, the 179 The Castiles. Boute 26 . — Burgos to Logrono. battle between Ferdinand I., of Castile, and liis brother Garcia, of Navarre, was fought, in 1053, in which the latter was killed, and buried at Najera: thus Rioja was annexed to Castile. Hence the road continues through the mountains of Oca to Villafranca de Montes, Pop. 903, and thence to 20J m. Belorado. Pop. 2388. This little village is situated in the district of La Rioja, which lies between Bur- gos, Soria, and Alava, and is so called from the River la Oja, which rises in the hills of San Lorenzo, and waters the plain below. This rich valley is in the shape of an S, being some 72 m. in length, with an equal breadth, varying from 24 to 30 m. It is divided into high, cdta, and low, baja ; the two are divided by the chain which sepa- rates the basins of the Ebro and Duero. The soil is so fertile that the district is called La Andalucia del Norte. A dreary ride now leads over bleak hills, with here and there some stunted oak-trees, to 16J m. Santo Domingo de la Cal- zada (of the causeway). Inn : Posada de Atauri. Pop. 4071. This town stands on the Oca, and rises with its tall belfry over a rich plain. It shares with Caiahorra in the dignity of a bishopric, resembling Jaen and Baeza, and our Bath and Wells. The Cathe- dral, of early Gothic, was begun in 1180 by Alonzo VIII., and finished in 1235, but was much injured by fire in 1825. The coro , high altar, and chapel of the tutelar Santo Domingo are in the Berruguete style. The reja of the chapel of the Magdalen is a fine specimen of the plateresque. This Santo Domingo was not the Holy Inquisitor, his namesake, but a local saint bom in these parts about 1010 * [From Santo Domingo the traveller may make a detour of about 12 m. over bare hills to San Asensio, Pop. 1964, a village prettily perched on a rocky range, behind which, in its valley, is the Geronimite convent La * His good works are fully detailed in 4 An- guiano consult also Sigiienza’s ‘ Historia de la Orden,’ &c., iii. ch, x. Estrella, in which El Mudo learned to paint. Thence strike S. to San Millan, Pop. 815, so called from its tutelar, whose authentic legend is fully given by Anguiano. Born in Rioja, he died about 564, -and Bishop Braulio wrote his life in 638. Originally a shepherd, he passed 40 years in a cave on the Cerro de San Lorenzo. This poor hamlet was famed for its once noble Benedictine convent, de la Cogolla. The upper and elder convent, el Souso, was founded in 537 by St. Millan himself ; but when the monastery increased, the acclivity became incon- venient, so in 1053 the holy body was brought down, and a new convent was built in a pleasant spot lower down, called el de Abajo. But only a few fragments of this can be traced, as the monks moved again, and in 1554 raised the present pile, which, from its splendour, was called the Escorial de Rioja; it is built in the severe style of Herrera. The cloister con- tains curious tombs, and among them those of the seven Infantes de Lara (?) ; the ch., large as some cathedrals, and now used as a parroquia, was built in 1642. Obs. in the retablo the tutelar, on a white horse, charging the Saracens a la Santiago. Obs. also those which represent his other mira- cles, casting out devils, putting out fires, &c. The modern church is very ornate; notice the pulpit and the overgilt altar and arch. The ashes of San Millan were collected in the year 1033 by Sancho el Mayor, who ordered a chest to be made to contain them, which still exists in the church. The names of Apparatio and Bodolpho , which appear on it, are thought to be those of the artists who made it. This chest is 1J yd. long, J yd. high, and is covered with 22 compartments of highly interesting ivory plates, with carvings representing episodes from the life of St. Millan. In 1808 the French stripped the chest of its gold and silver ornaments, but fortunately neglected the fine old ivory carvings. The convent was very comfortable, with its fine ambulatorio ; the rich library has been much pillaged. The choice things have been moved to the N 2 180 Sect I. 'Route 27 . — Burgos to Madrid by Lerma . Academia de la Historia, at Madrid ; some of the MSS. were of the 9th centy. The library still possesses a copy of the polyglot Bible of Ximenez. In the lofty tower hell-fanciers may look at one called La Bomba, of the date 1269. But the glories of St. Millan are passed. Sequestration has succeeded to the “ repairs and beautify- ings ” of Yentura Rodriguez, and farmers have taken the places of the friars, and bullocks and asses of the monks. Besides this saint, here was born Gonzalo Berceo, one of the earliest poets of Spain. The distance hence to Najera is 8 in.] 11 m. Najera. Inn: Posada de la Campana. Pop. 2548. This little town rises on the Najerilla (called here el Canal), in a rich vega, under a ruined castle, which crowns the hill. Now decayed, it was once the court of Navarre, and here St. Ferdinand was crowned. The Benedictine church of Sta. Maria is fine and well kept ; the library, however, and archives have been sadly pillaged. This also was once a sort of Escorial, for here lie 35 bodies of the royal families of Castile and Navarre. The elaborate Gothic coro was carved by el Maestro Andres, and Nicolas, in 1495. Obs. the deli- cate tracery in the openings of the arches : obs. also the retablos painted by Juan Yascardo and Pedro Margo- tedo, in 1631, and the early painting by Maestro Luis (1442). It was between Najera and Navar- rete that the battle took place, April 3, 1367, which replaced the perfidious, cruel, and ungrateful Don Pedro on his throne. Our Black Prince was Don Pedro’s ally, whilst his rival, En- rique de Trastamara, was assisted by the French bands of Du Guesclin. 10 m. Navarret e. Pop. 1768. 3J m. Fuenmayor. Pop. 1929. Stat. on the Castejon and Bilbao Ely. Thence rail to 15 m. Logrono Stat. (See Ete. 160.) ROUTE 27. BURGOS TO MADRID, BY LERMA, ARANDA DE DUERO, AND SOMOSIERRA. 151 m. The coach-road leaves Burgos by el Arco de Santa Maria, and passes through the villages of Sarracin, Co- gollos, and Madrigalejo, to 23 m. Lerma. Pop. 2368. Approach- ing here the road crosses the Rio Ar- lanza on a fine bridge of 9 arches. There is a large and clean Parador opposite the coach office, but beware of imposi- tion, and bargain beforehand. Observe here the ruins of the former palatial residence of the Duke de Lerma, mi- nister to Philip III. ; it was built in 1604 by Francisco de Moro, a pupil of Herrera. It was entirely destroyed by the French. La Colegiata, with a classical portal, was also built by this duke : it contains the superb monu- ment of the Cardinal Lerma in a kneel- ing position, by Pompeio Leoni. [A highly interesting detour of 75 m. can be here made by the equestrian tourist by which the dreary high road to Aranda de Duero may be avoided. It can be accomplished in two long days, the intervening night being passed at Arauzo de Miel or Huerta del Key ; neither of which offer better accommodation than the most wretched of mesones. A local guide is indis- pensable, and be sure to attend to the provend. The fine scenery and nume- rous objects of interest, however, fully compensate for such discomfort. Un- mounted travellers had better proceed to Aranda de Duero, where Domingo Gomez (see below) will provide animals and a trustworthy local guide, and the excursion can be made the reverse way. Leaving Lerma we proceed by the carriage road up the rt. bank of the I Arlanza to Covarrubias, 13| m. (Pop. 1644), 181 The Castiles. Boute 27 . — Burgos to Madrid by Lerma . situated in a secluded hollow on the river, with a fine Colegiata among the ruined remains of the massive medi- aeval buildings. Obs. the square tower in which Dona Urraca was immured by the Conde Fernan Gonzalez. Hence we follow the excellently engineered carriage road, still on the rt. bank of the river, for 5 m., to the remains of the an- cient Benedictine Carthusian monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza. The ruins are prettily situated on a rocky site between the highroad and the brawling stream, and are in a fair state of preservation. This monastery existed in the time of the Goths, as in it Wamba took the cowl : it was restored in 912, some say, by the Conde Fernan Gonzalez, in gratitude for his signal victory at Cascajares. Here was preserved the cross which was sent him by Pope John XI., as a sure remedy against hail-stones; its virtue was tested in 1488 by the Bishop Luis de Acuna, who put it into a fire, whereupon the flames were instantly extinguished (see Sandoval’s ‘ Mario? p. 336). Here also was kept la Virgen de las Batallas, which was coeval with that of the Cid. The Count Fernan was buried here with his wife Sancha, and so also, as some say, is Mudarra and the 7 infantes of Lara. Etiam periere ruinse ! This count was the real founder of the Cas- tilian monarchy, and a perfect hero of romance, being always up to his elbows in adventures ; his grand deeds were the defeats of the infidel at Lara, at Osma, and Piedrahita ; his escape from prison by the aid of his true wife, and other spirit-stirring incidents, just when history was hovering on fiction, are told in some charming old ballads (see Duran, v. 27). Harking back about a mile we cross to the 1. bank of the beautifully wooded Arlanza, and strike N. by the roughest of bridle-paths for 5 m. to the village of Contreras (Pop. 583), pleasantly situated in a valley of fertile meadows. Crossing the western spur of La Mirandiila we descend to the roofless ruins of the ancient Benedictine con- vent of Santo Domingo de Silos (5 m.). It is situated in a liill-girt valley, watered by the brawling Mataviejas. The bare capitals of the double-gal- leried Byzantine cloister still remain standing ; look at the quaint figures of the 10th or 11th century, which orna- ment the doorway. The tutelar Santo Domingo, born circa 1000 near Najera, was abbot of this convent for 23 years. He worked many miracles alive, and when dead delivered so many captives at Algiers (whose countless chains hung at the convent gate) that the feat passed into a synonym of infinity. No te bastaran los hierros de Santo Domingo de Silos. Now make, over mountain and glen, through parklike scenery, wooded with oak, pine, and cedar, and freshened with rivulets, by Arauzo de Miel, 11 m. (Pop. 803), to Huerta del Key, 3 m. (Pop. 1104). Thence 4J m. to Penalva de Castro (Pop. 314), the white rock of the camp, that lies under a hill to the N., the site of ancient Clunia, which, with its capitals, in- scribed columns, and “old stones,” served as a quarry for building this modern hamlet. Just to the 1. of the ascent, rises ancient Clunia, placed on a conspicuous height, with a fine view ; fragments of the theatre, about 70 yards wide by 50 long, jut out of the hill-side ; 10 rows of steps and part of the proscenium are tolerably perfect. Bushels of engraved stones have been found amid the ruins; it is an un- worked mine of antiquities. (Consult the ‘Historia del Obispado.’) The ancient town is gone all but a few stones : the scene is now desolate, and a single peasant vegetates where mul- titudes once swarmed : obs. the rollo , or town cross, made from a Corinthian shaft. Now turn down by a hermitage to the castle-crowned village of Coruna del Conde, 1| m. (Pop. 544), the corruption of Clunia — Crunia; it lies a little way beyond the base of the hill on the opposite side. Leaving Co- runa to the rt. is a Komanesque chapel, constructed out of ancient fragments, where the doors of the 12th cent, con- trast with classical cornices and fes- toons. Thence, by a 7J m. ride down the rt. bank of the Bio Arandillo , 182 Sect. I. Route 27 . — Burgos wherein trout are plentiful, to pic- turesque, imposingly-situated Penaranda de Duero (Pop. 1494), or de la Perra so called from a bitch observed moving out of a hole in the wall, which pointed out to the Chris- tians an adit to capture the castle, on the hill above, from the Moors. The ruined castle, the tumble-down Prout- like houses, the picturesque paupers and rags to match, will delight the artist. The decaying palace, a mixture of Saracenic and Moorish style, is the Casa solar of the powerful Zunigas, counts of Miranda. The Conde de Montijo is now the head of the family, and the ex-Empress of the French a scion of the house, to whose nephew, the Duke of Alba, this time-honoured ruin belongs. Walk up to and about the gorgeous wreck : notice the plater- esque portal, decorated with a now mutilated bust of Hercules, armour and heraldic coats, a double-galleried superb patio , a staircase ornamented with medallions, and the panoramic view. In front of the palace is the Gothic Kollo y Picote, emblems of feudal days, when this great family possessed the right of the Horca y cuchillo. The Colegiata contains some fine tombs and urnas of the Mirandas, many brought from Genoa. Several busts of Roman emperors are let into the facade of the church. Now take the cart-road down the rt. bank of the Kio Pilde, through flat uninteresting country, to Aranda de Duero, 10 m.J From Lerma the diligence-road tra- verses an uninteresting country to 18| m. Gumiel de Izan. Pop. 2168. The town is surrounded by decayed walls. Yisit the Parroquia, and obs. the Corinthian portal erected in 1627, and enriched with Apostles, cardinal Virtues, the Assumption of the Virgin, and her Coronation. 7 m. Aranda de Duero (Pop. 5043). Do not put up at any posada in the main town, but cross the poplar-fringed Duero by the handsome old bridge to the coach office in the southern suburb. Here will be found a most civil and to Madrid : Aranda. obliging man in Domingo Gomez, the local manager of the coach lines, who also keeps an excellent and clean Casa de Huespedes, 20 rs. a day. Casino in the Plaza Mayor, and post office at the back of the Casino. There are branch coaches to Burgo de Osma, Sotia, and Valladolid. The 8. portal of the Parroquia is in the fine Gothic style of Ferdinand and Isabel, whose badges are mingled with the shields of the Enriquez, admirals of Castile : obs. the scale-form stone- work over the door, which has good carved panels and rich niches and statuary, with three alto-relievos re- presenting the Bearing the Cross, the Crucifixion, and Resurrection. The retablo inside contains subjects from the life of the Virgin. The fine retablo pulpit and sepulchre wrought by Juan de Juni for his patron Alvarez de Acosta, Bishop of Osma, has been re- moved to the church of San Francisco, El Colegio. In the sacristy may be seen a good Descent from the Cross, which formed part of the retablo. The convent and bishop’s palace were gutted by the French. Obs. the picturesque over-hanging balconied houses. Visit the pictur- esque market-place where the peasants group together, with their alforjas on their shoulder. The women wear red stockings, and petticoats of thick serge, green and blue. Aranda was once inhabited by kings. The neigh- bourhood of this decayed town was once celebrated for its vineyards, which, although now neglected, have their patroness and history. The grand local fete is held Sept. 8th, and is a sight which should not be missed by the artist. On the road to Somosierra at Castil- lejo there is a fair carretera to Sepul- veda (6 m.), which contains several interesting churches. Thence a coach runs to Segovia. Visit San Salvador and Santa Maria with its ancient images of Santa Maria de la Pena. The road leaves Aranda by a shady avenue of poplar-trees ; it traverses an arid depopulated plain to 24 m. Boceguillas (Pop. 538). Enter- 183 The Castiles. Route 28 .—Burgos to Santander . ing the village there is a good Posada on the rt., kept by civil people. The lofty Somosierra range now stands boldly against the sky line, and the ascent gradually commences. 9 m. Cerezo de Abajo (Pop. 415). Fair Posada. 7 m. Somosierra. A wretched ham- let of 269 Inhab. Avoid the Parador here. The pass or puerto over this dreary district is often blocked with snow in winter. The pass is placed on the dorsal spine of the granite serrated barrier : it is the natural gate and de- fence of Madrid, and upon the occa- sion of Napoleon’s march upon the capital it was strongly occupied by the Spaniards with 16 cannon (Nov. 30, 1808). These 12,000 valiant men, al- though guarding a position almost impregnable, abandoned their guns, without a show of fight, at the mere sound of the horsehoofs of an advance guard of the French, consisting of a few hundred Polish lancers led by Krasinski. Thus Buonaparte reached Madrid without encountering a single opponent. ; 8 m. Buitrago (Pop. 1479). A pic- turesque and flourishing village on the rock-bound Bio Lozoya. Fair Posada on the 1. at the Madrid end. 5 m. Lozoyuela (Pop. 648). Fair Posada. 5 m. La Cabrera (Pop. 429). This village is surrounded by gardens, and has a fair Posada. 30 m. San Sebastian de los Beyes (Pop. 1170). Do not put up here, but proceed to 1 m. Alcobendas (Pop. 1337). Para- dor de Yicente el Gallo, an excellent and pleasant country Inn. The neigh- bourhood is fertile and produces much wine. 5 m. Fuencarral (Pop. 2344). To the d. of this wind-blown town obs. an old mansion of the Mendoza family, now belonging to the Duke of Osuna : here Napoleon I. lodged from the 2nd to the 22nd December, 1808 ; and here he received the Madrid deputation headed by the traitor Morla. The last few miles of this route tra- verse the desert around the capital, ! and are wearisome to the now tired traveller, who will gladly enter the suburbs of cheerful Madrid. 3J m. Madrid. (See Kte. 2.) KOUTE 28. BURGOS TO SANTANDER, The rail to Yenta de Banos and Beinosa (Pop. 2952) — see Bte. 24 — though circuitous is preferable to the diligence-road by Soto Palacios. Jubilla del Agua. Cabanas de Virtus. Here a cross- road branches off to Beinosa, a station on the line to Santander. Travellers wishing to see the Valle de Pas and go to Benedo, continue from Cabanas de Virtus by Entrambas mesetas, Ontaneda, Puente Viesgo, to Benedo. The road by TJrbel and Pedrosa only goes to Aguilar, a station on the line from Madrid to Santander, from which point the Llebana district may be reached by the high road from Oervera. See Bte. 24. Leaving Burgos, the road enters the valley of the Urbel. Vivar, where the Cid is said to have been born, lies to the rt., and the hills of Villadiego rise to the 1. 20 m. ITrbel del Castillo. This de- cayed place is built on La Pinza over its trout-stream : it was formerly the seat of the see of Burgos. The road now passes through the mountainous district which divides the basins of the Ebro and the Pisuerga to 22 m. Quintanilla, or Aguilar de Campos. Stats, on rly. Bte. 1. Pop. 271. ( 184 ) Sect. II. SECTION II. THE BASQUE PROVINCES. ALAYA; VIZCAYA; GUIPUZCOA. History — Fueros — Nobility — Fives Courts — Casas Solares— Agriculture — Customs — Language. Las Provincias Vascongadas consist of the three united provinces of Alava, Vizcaya, and Guipuzcoa. Vizcaya, the largest, contains about 106 square leagues ; Guipuzcoa, the smallest, only 52, hut it is the most densely peopled, and at the rate of 2000 inhabitants to the square league ; Alava, containing about 180 square leagues, lies between Guipuzcoa and Navarre. These pro- vinces, forming the mountainous triangle of the N.W. of the Peninsula, constituted the Cantabria of the ancients, a name derived by some from Kent-Aber, which they interpret the “ Corner of the Water.” This corner of the land, like our Wales, is the home of the remnant of the indigenes or aboriginal inhabitants, who never have been expelled or subdued :* thus the character of an unadulterated primitive race, an ethnological fossil, remains, strongly marked in language and nationality. These highlanders, bred on metal-pregnant mountains, and nursed amid storms in a cradle indomitable as themselves, in a country difficult to take and not much worth the taking, have always known how to forge their iron into arms, and to wield them in defence of their independence ; and what sword equals that moulded from the plough- share ? This sufficiency in self is the meaning which Senor Ferochegui reads in the Basque name, a word derived by him from Bayascogara , “somos bastantes.” A sense of separate weakness has taught these provinces the secret of union. This federal association is expressed in their national symbol of three hands joined together, with the motto “ Irurac Bat” which is equi- valent to the tria juncta in uno of the Bath order of our united kingdoms. The armorial shield is “ argent, the tree of Guernica vert, two wolves gules, with an orle of eight crosses or.” The Basques have been less successful in resisting invasions by sea, for they were partly overcome about the year 870 by a fair-haired Northman, named Zuria, an adventurer either from Norway or Scotland; and to this foreign admixture their fair complexions and immemorial representative government have been traced. These provinces, when the descendants of the Goths began to gain ground on the Moorish invaders, formed themselves into a confederation of small detached tribes or republics, placed under a nominal Lord or Senor , until at length, in the 14th century, Nuno, the 19th Lord, died, leaving two daughters, one of whom having married Juan of Aragon, Pedro the Cruel seized the opportunity, put her husband to death, and annexed the Lordship (< el Sehorio) to the crown of Castile. Soon afterwards he ceded it to the Black Prince, in reward for his assistance at Navarrete ; however, private instructions were given to the Basques not to allow the foreigner to take possession, which he never did. Although incorporated with the Castilian monarchy, these pro- * The Goths could not subdue these rebellious highlanders, although Recared, as San Isidoro tells us, used especially to send his troops there to keep his soldiers’ hands in fighting condition — quasi in paelestri ludo (Chron. Era 585) 185 Basque Provinces. History — Nobility . vinces were considered exentas ; the national fueros were rigidly retained ; and these, the kings of Spain, as Senores only of Biscay, always swore on their accessions to maintain. The first impolitic act of Castanon, after Ferdinand VII/s death, was to abolish these fueros , which threw the Basques into the cause of Don Carlos, in whom they beheld a non-innovating principle ; this war lasted from 1830 to 1840. The Basque fueros were regularly classified and digested for the first time in 1526, by a native commission appointed by Charles V., and have been often printed. The principal advantages of the fueros consisted in the fact that the three Basque Provinces were free from the quinta conscription, without any other obligation but that of contributing a certain number of soldiers when Spain was engaged in a foreign war. They were also free from the stamped-paper tax, and could manufacture tobacco and sell it: this industry in other provinces is the exclusive monopoly of the government. The parochial organism was different from that of the rest of Spain, although in the concordat of 1851 a bishop was created in Victoria, a suffragan to Burgos. Queen Isabel accepted the fueros in the same manner as her ancestors, and the Basque Provinces continued tranquil from 1840 until the revolution of 1868. The government which succeeded, the Provisional, Don Amadeo, the Republic, and the present government of Don Alfonso XII. swore or promised to preserve the fueros. But during this period, especially from 1872 to 1876, the Basque Provinces rose to arms, and proclaimed as King of Spain Don Carlos, the grandson of the old pretender. After the war had terminated, it was discussed in the Cortes to abolish the fueros. In the Junta of the 25th July, 1876, a law appeared in consequence of this determina- tion, by which the quinta is established in the Basque Provinces, in the same manner as the rest of Spain, and the provinces are forced “ to pay and contri- bute in the proportion which corresponds to them, in order to defray public expenses, the contributions, and ordinary and extraordinary taxes which may be established in the State Budget.” The so-called Ejercito del Norte con- tinues in the Basque Provinces. The Spanish government has occupied in a military manner the principal points of the provinces. The conscriptions have been levied without difficulty. The taxes on stamped paper and tobacco are similar, with some slight modifica- tions, to those of the rest of Spain. Another privilege is universal nobility , the appanage secured to all by the mere fact of being born in these provinces. Sons of old and good Christians, free from all Jewish and Moorish taint, they represent the “ Hebrew of the Hebrews,” and are the most Gothic gentlemen of Spain, Caballeros hijos de algo. It is true that where all are so noble, the distinction is of small im- portance; nevertheless, like other Highlanders, they are grievously affected with genealogy. Peppery as the Welsh, proud as Lucifer, and combustible as his matches, these Nobleza de Esjoana fire up when their pedigree is questioned, and well did Don Quijote know how to annoy a Biscayan by telling him that “he is no gentleman.” Basque gentility often, however, consists rather in blood than in manners ; he thinks the deference which one well-conditioned person pays to another to be a degradation to his noble birthright; and, consequently, although the Basque Provinces may typify the three Graces of Spain, the natives sacrifice but little to maintain those types of amiable humanity. The modern Basques, brave and active as individuals, have been thought to form bad regular soldiers, as they are generally too obstinate to tolerate drill and discipline ; but since the conscription they have turned out excellent soldiers, and have given no cause for complaint ; again, they can only be managed by one of themselves ; hence Gonzalo de Cordova affirmed that he would rather be a keeper of wild beasts than a commander of Basques. They are considered the best sailors in Spain, and have been distinguished at all times for their great valour. As Guerrilleros they are excellent, since their 186 Commerce — Agriculture . Sect. II. active mountain and smuggling habits educate them for a desultory war of frontier ambuscade, foray, and bush-fighting. In the wild sierras of Guipuzcoa bands were raised by the shepherd Gaspar Jauregui, which were always a thorn in the path of the French. The treatment which our soldiers have met with from the Basques, from the Black Prince down to Sir De Lacy Evans, has always been the reverse of friendly, even while fighting their battles. The Duke never found an enemy among the people of Spain until he entered these provinces, when the Basques, saved from the invaders by him alone, rose in his rear, as in olden time, “ impacatos a terga horrebis Iberos ” Georg.’ iii. 408) ; so they repaid Charlemagne, whom they had called in to assist them. From such allies well might the Duke pray to be delivered ; from all enemies in front he could protect himself. Commerce and fishing form the occupations of those who dwell on the seaboard, and agricultural and pastoral pursuits of those who live inland : the ores of the iron-pregnant hills are worked by both native and foreign capitalists. A tour in these provinces is rather suited to the lover of nature than of arts. The towns are Swiss-like, surrounded by green hills and enlivened by clear trout-streams ; the streets are often drawn in straight lines, which intersect each other at right angles ; the alamedas are always pretty ; a Juego de Pelota , BoloSj or fives-court , and a public plaza , are seldom wanting. The defences and vmlls are solid, for stone and iron abound. The sombre-looking balconied country dwellings are so strongly built that they look like fortresses ; here every gentleman’s house is indeed his castle. The soffits which support the projecting sheltering eaves are often richly carved ; the eaves protect the houses from the rains, but deluge passengers with shower-baths. To these Casas Solares , or family manor-houses, is added a pomp of heraldry, as armorial shields, large as the pride of the owners, are sculptured over the portals. Agriculture , as being the occupation of Adam, the first gentleman who bore arms, is not held to degrade these peasant peers. Their hidalgos , or better classes, are something between our small squires and substantial yeomen. Agriculture is better managed here than in most parts of Spain. The Basque farms are small, many not exceeding five acres, or so much land as a man, his wife, and family can labour: cultivation with a sort of prong-fork or mattock, called laya, is much in vogue. The peasantry are the best portion of the Basques, and if kindly treated are civil and hospitable as far as their humble means allow. Simple, hardy, and patient, they have the virtues and vices of Highlanders. These provinces are made up of mountain and valley, with a sea-board line. The plains are verdurous from damp, and cultivated with great industry. The elevated slopes are covered with oak and chestnut-trees ; the produce of the latter is exported to England, or enters into the diet of the frugal natives. Corn only ripens in favoured localities; maize is the staple “bread-stuff;” good milk, bad cheese, and fine apples are plentiful. A wine also is made called chacoli , Arabice chacalet , “ weakness,” “ thinness,” which, although an exceedingly light wine, is palatable and wholesome. In no province of Spain are the roads so good as in the Basque Provinces. The hotels and means of communication are excellent; and this, added to the great quantity of mineral waters in the locality, and pleasant climate, makes them a favourite resort ; in winter the weather is very rainy. Holidays. — Sunday is the day to observe the costume and amusements of the peasantry. # The Basque holidays are celebrated with the song, dance, pelota (ball), and single-stick, amusements which they love as much as do their neighbours the Asturians. Their so-called musical instruments consist of the tamboril and pito. The Basque dances are Salic and singular ; the Zorzico , or “ evolution of eight,” consists of two parts, la danza real , the opening, and the arrin Basque Provinces. Customs — Language . 187 arrin , or the conclusion. The Carricct is a dance performed in the streets ; tlie Espata danza is a remnant of the primitive Tripudium of the Iberians. The Basque women wear their hair in long plaited tresses, trenzas , and cover their heads with a hood or capuz , which is more convenient than picturesque. When young they are fresh and fair, although somewhat muscular ; and their beauty, from overwork, poor fare, and exposure, is short-lived, for they pass into haghood after thirty. The Basques are much given to pilgrimages to holy sites in the hills, where the chacoli and shillelah are devoutly used : and how well chosen are these “high places 5 7 How the fresh air exhilarates, how the views delight, how as we ascend is the earth left below, while we mount as it were to heaven ! and then with what an appetite do all descend, and how sweet is sleep when the conscience is at rest, and the frame is weary from this combination of devotion and exercise ! Among other antique customs, corn and bread are offered to the manes of the deceased, on the anniversary of death ; these oblations are called robos, from an Aragonese measure taken from the Moorish arroba. Compare the “ Sparsse fruges ” of Ovid (Fasti, ii. 538), and the barley offered to the Polian Jupiter (Paus. i. 24. 4). The Basques have a language of their own, which few but themselves can understand. The enunciation is not easy, at least, if the Andalucian’s joke be true, who says, “that the Basques write Solomon and pronounce it Nebu- chadnezzar.” The fine-eared fastidiousness of the ancients rejected as barbarous these Basque words, spellings, and sounds ; they could neither be written nor spoken from their to arjbes ttis ypatyrjs (Strabo, iii. 234 : see also Pliny, 4 N. El.’ iii. 3 ; and Martial, iv. 55-9). Pomponius Mela (iii. 1) goes farther : — “ Quorum nomina nostro ore concipi nequeant.” Humboldt considers the Basque to have been formerly spoken all over the Peninsula, as is evidenced by the nomenclature of localities, and other things which are not subject to change. The Basques call themselves Euscaldanac , their country Euscaleria, and their language Euscara. The Eusc is the old Osc, Yesc, Yasq, of Italy and Iberia. According to Perochegui, Adam spoke Basque, as being the language of angels, which seems strange. This idiom was, moreover, brought pure into Spain by Tubal, long before the confusion of tongues at Babel. Angelic or not, it is so difficult, that the devil, who is no fool, is said to have studied seven years in the Bilboes, and to have learnt only three words. The grammar and declensions are very intricate. The language is distinct from the Irish, Gaelic, and Welsh, with which it has often been supposed to be a sister idiom. Mr. Borrow believed, that the Basque is of a Tartar origin, resembling in structure the Manchou and the Mongolian, with a decided Sanscrit element.* * The Basque student is referred to the philological works of Larramendi, 4 Antigiiedad y Uni- versalidad del Bascuence,’ 8vo., Salamanca; ‘ El Imposible Vencido., 6 Arte de la Lengua Bascon- gada,’ 8vo., Sal., 1729 ; ‘Diccionario Trilingue,’ 2 vols. fol., St. Sebastian, 1821. Consult also • Ilustraciones de Vizcaya,’ Zaragoza, 1631 ; ‘ Noticia Utriusque Vasconise,’ Arnold, Oihenart, 4to., Paris, 1638-56 ; * DiscursosHistoricos, &c.,de Vizcaya,’ ‘ Lorenzo Roberto de la Linde,’ 2 vols., 8 vo., Sevilla,’ 1740; ‘Urbewohner von Hispanien,’ Wm. von Humboldt, 4to., Berlin, 1821; six volumes of curious documents in Simancas (collected by Dn. Tomas Gonzalez), ‘ Coleccion de Cedulas,’ 4to., Mad., 1829-33 ; 4 La Cantabria,’ Florez, 4to., Mad., 1768 ; ‘Noticias Historicas de las tres Provincias,’ &c. (there is a good map of Alava by Martin de Sabacibar) ; 4 Compendios His- toricos, &c., de Alava,’ Pamplona, 4to., 1798, Juan Antonio Llorente, 4to., 5 vols., Mad., 1806-8 ; the excellent 4 Diccionario Geogrdphico de la Academia,’ by different authors, 4to., 2 vols.. Mad., 1802 (unfortunately it has not been continued) ; 4 Historia de las Naciones Bascas,’ J. A. de Zamacola, 3 vols., 8vo., Auch, 1818 ; 4 De la Antigua Lengua, &c., de Cantabria,’ Andres de Poca , 4 to., Bilbao, 1587 ; 4 Discursos de la Antigiiedad de la Lengua Cantdbrica,’ Balthasar de Echave , 4 to., Mexico, 1607 ; and 4 Guia Historico-Descriptivo del Viajero,’ por J. E. Delmas, 1 vol., Bilbao, 1865 ; the 4 Basque Provinces,’ by W. Macpherson, printed in English in Rev. H. C. Rose’s * Among the Spanish People,’ London, 1877 ; 4 Basque Legends,’ by the Rev. W. Webster, London, 1877 ; several pamphlets by Prince Lucien Bonaparte on the Basque Language. 188 Route 33 . — Miranda to Bilbao . Sect. II ROUTES. ROUTE PAGE 33 Miranda to Bilbao, by Orduna and Arrigorriaga. Rail . . 188 34 San Sebastian to Bilbao : (A.) by Zarauz, Zumaya, Beva, Motrico, Lequeito, and Guer- nica. Diligence. (B), by Zarauz, Baths of Cestona, Azpeitia, Santa Casa de Loy- ola, Elgoibar, and Durango. Diligence -road 192 35 Tolosa to Bilbao. Diligence 196 36 Vitoria to Bilbao, by Ochan- diano. Diligence-road .. 196 ROUTE 33. MIRANDA TO BILBAO, BY ORDUNA. RAIL 64| m. Two trains daily, in 4 hrs. This route, considering the grandeur of its scenery, its historical associa- tions, and the masterly way in which the line itself has been engineered, by our countryman, Oh. Vignolles, C.E., forms a most interesting excursion. N.B. — The rt.-hand seats in the rly. carriages should he secured. Miranda Junct. Stat. Pop. 4009. Inn: Fonda de Guinea, near the sta- tion : excellent. Rly. to Bayonne and Madrid (Rte. 1) : to Logroho and Castejon (Rte. 160). 9 m. Pobes Stat. After passing this stat., between the villages of Subijana and Morillas, observe (to the rt. of the line) the house at the N.W. end of a bridge over the Bejas. It was the headquarters of the duke and his staff the night before the battle of Vitoria (1813). The grand defile of the Tejas is next entered. Previous to the battle a portion of the English forces de- ROUTE PAGE 37 Bilbao to Santander, by So- morrostro, Laredo, and San- toiia. Diligence 197 38 Bilbao to Villareal, by Ver- gara. Diligence 198 39 Villareal to Zumaya, by the Convent of Loyola and Baths of Cestona. Diligence . r 198 40 Villareal to Arechavaleta, by the Baths of Santa Agueda and Mondragon. Diligence during the bathing season . . 199 scended through it to the plain of Vitoria, and arriving at a critical mo- ment, succeeded in turning the rt. wing of the enemy. 12 m. Izarra Stat. The railway now passes, with many curves, close to the Falls of Altabe, 604 ft. 3 J m. Inosa Stat. The summit-level of the pass is now reached (2163 ft. above the sea-level). In winter and spring the sight is splendid through magnificent Alpine scenery to the village of 5J ul Lezama Stat. Pop. 1627. Shortly after leaving this stat., the river Oroyco is crossed by a fine via- duct. Here the river falls over the edge of the rock to a depth of 700 feet. The rly. continues to descend by nu- merous sweeping curves until it ap- proaches the grand Basin (Concha) of Orduna, when it makes a semicircular gradual descent of 8f m. to reach the level of the plain beneath. 8J Orduna Stat. Inn: Fonda de Guinea, poor but clean. Pop. 3920. This little city was formerly fortified, and considered of considerable military importance. In May 1874 there was an action in the neighbourhood, and it was taken by the Liberal troops. The Plaza is picturesque : from its centre 10 narrow streets diverge in the form of a star and intersect the city. An- Route 33. — Bilbao . 189 Basque Provinces. cient Orduna, once the only city in the Basque provinces, was built nearer the neighbouring mountains — la peha de Orduna — which formed the moun- tain barrier of the refugee Iberians. A singular atmospheric phenomenon is here observable; a stationary roll of dense grey cloud, in the shape of a bolster, frequently caps the long ridge which forms the summit of the moun- tain, sometimes revolving on its axis. The cloud usually disperses when the evening sets in ; a vaporous duplicate of the cloud itself may sometimes be seen floating above it in the air. A parallel to this may be seen at Gib- raltar in the phenomenon constantly observed there, called the Rock wear- ing its night-cap. Orduna will be found a convenient centre for pedestrian excursions. Good trout-fishing. A pleasant walk can be taken to the remarkable gorge of the Tortanga, near the Pico del Fraile. Another excursion can be made to the magnificent chasm near to Delicia, where the river Nervion rushes grandly over a cascade 220 ft. high into the narrow wooded valley beneath. The Rly. continues along the plain, returning, with an almost circular sweep, to within 600 yds. of the point where it first commenced the descent at the opposite side of the Basin. It then traverses a country well culti- vated and fertile, and dotted with prosperous-looking homesteads, to 4J m. Amurrio Stat. Pop. 1144. To the rt. is the valley of Luyando, in which are mineral baths supplied with ferruginous water. 8J m. Areta Stat. 7 m. Arrigorriaga Stat. Pop. 860. Notice its ancient ch. of the 9th centy., which contains some curious archives in the Basque language. Here the garrison of Bilbao in 1874 made seve- ral sallies during the siege. Visit the Puente Nuevo, near the scene of the battle ; it was made for the artist. The thickly populated and fertile valley of the Pena is now threaded by the iron road to 6 m. Bilbao Stat. Inns : Fonda de Inglaterra, Calle del Correo, excellent, 30 r. a day; Fonda de Antonia, on the Arenal, good and clean, 30 rs. a day ; Hotel Americano ; Fonda de las Navarras, in the Calle del Correo ; Fonda del Boulevard, on the Arenal ; Casa de Pupilos de lturrzaga. Cafe El Suizo on the Arenal. Casino and Club House . — La Socie- dad Bilbaina, in the Plaza Nueva. It is one of the handsomest clubs in Spain, furnished with commodious reading-room and library, and supplied with 4 English newspapers. Strangers are courteously admitted at all hours by simply presenting their cards. Theatre , on the Arenal. Bull-ring, outside the town on the road to Abando. It will seat 9215 persons. The bull-fights (the most renowned in North Spain) take place between the 15th and 25th of August. Post Office , in the Plaza Nueva. Tramway down the rt. bank of the river to Las Arenas, Portugalete, and Santurce ; and four railways, to the different mining districts. British Consulate near the railway station. Protestant chapel. U.S.A. Consular Agent. Edward Asnar, Esq. Bankers . — Epalza and Son, 9 Calle Estufa, correspondents of Messrs. Coutts. Baths , 7 Calle Ascao. Bilbao (in Basque IbaizabeV) con- tains a Population of 35,227 souls, and is the capital of Vizcaya (or Biscaya). The town is now allowed to style it- self Bilbao la Invicta, a reward for its defence against the Carlists. Bilbao was relieved when besieged during the late war by a force of 10,000 Civil Guards, one of the few occasions on which they have been used as a mili- tary force. The army entered on the 2nd of May, 1874, after the action at Las Munecas, which obliged the Carlists to raise the siege. It is most picturesquely situated upon the Rio Nervion, which is navigable for steamers up to Oleviaga, about 8 m. from its mouth. The town is one of the most lively and thriving in Spain. 190 Route 33. — Bilbao . Sect. II. Its buildings are almost entirely mo- dern, tlie old ones having perished from bombardments and conflagra- tions. A new impulse to trade has been given by the working of mines and quarries of iron ore (red and brown hematite) in the Somorrostro range and district, on the 1. bank of the Nervion. Many are in the hands of English capitalists. The Bilbao mer- chants are reputed to be honourable, business-like, and hospitable. The neighbourhood is unhealthy in winter, and pulmonary diseases are prevalent. Bilbao, being purely mercantile, possesses few objects of fine art in- terest ; most of its older churches and convents were destroyed during the sieges of the Carlist war, or have been since suppressed. Those that remain which may be visited are — the Church of Arrichinaga, built and enclosing a megalitic monument; the Church of Santiago, 14th to 16th century; San Anton, 14th century, but hideously repaired. The old Bridge of San Antonio is now closed to traffic. It was erected in the 12th centy., and was once the boast of Bilbao, similar to the one at Cangas de Onis. It is of beautiful proportions, and still forms the charge of the city arms, with 2 wolves, the cognizance of Diego Lopez (Lupus de Haro), Lord of Biscay, who built it about the year 1356. Three other bridges now cross the river, one of which was opened in 1877. The houses of Bilbao are lofty and well built ; their projecting roofs afford protection against wind and rain. The streets are narrow, and carriages are unable to pass each other, and must follow certain directions pre- scribed for them by the police. The Arenal and Begona are the favourite promenades. Visit the plentifully- supplied market, which abounds in picturesque costumes; obs. also the quaintly- dressed Cargueras (female porters), who do all the work of the town, just as the women do all the work of the men and asses in the fields. There is also a good Hospital, built in the Doric style, and a well-conducted House of Mercy, surrounded by gar- dens, for the aged poor. Bilbao, in the civil wars, was twice exposed to destructive sieges ; the dilapidations have, however, been much repaired. Don Carlos, in the first case, had absurdly ordered Zum- alacarregui to attack this place, in order to satisfy Russia and the other powers, who complained that he had mastered no important city in the Basque provinces ; thus his cause was lost, for had he at once pushed on to Madrid it must have surrendered, such was the prestige of the Guer- rillero's victories. On the 10th of June, 1835, Zumalacarregui, having rented Espartero at Descarga, came to Bilbao and seized the church and Palacio de Begona (the holy image here is much venerated, the grand holiday on Aug. 15); from this position the town is commanded, which, having been left by Mirasol undefended, must have capitulated, had not a ball struck el Tio Tomas in the calf of his right leg, while standing in the balcony. The Basque surgeons did the rest, and with him died the Carlist cause, for Erasco raised the siege on the 1st of the ensuing July. On October 23rd, when the Carlists re- appeared, they at once carried all the undefended positions on the right bank of the Nervion, from San Agus- tin to Los Capuchinos, the Christino general San Miguel abandoning every- thing without a struggle. Now the English blue-jackets came again to the rescue. Then it was that Cap- tain Lapidge and Colonel Wylde, the real heroes, pointed out the true line of relief by crossing the river to Espartero, and it is said, using towards him a gentle violence ; then English sailors prepared rafts, which the fire of English artillery protected, and so the Nervion was first passed by Espartero, and next the Asua was crossed at Luchana ; thus Bilbao was relieved, after a sixty days’ siege, on which the whole question of the war turned. The Carlists made a feeble 191 Basque Provinces. Boute 33. — Bilbao — Portugalete . resistance against the Christinists, who advanced in a snow-storm and bivou- acked that night on the ground, with- out food and half naked, with true Spanish endurance of hardships. The best Carlist account is Hen- ningen’s 4 Twelve Months’ Campaign with Zumalacarregui.’ About 1870 the iron ores of Biscay, along the W. side of the Nervion espe- cially, began to be explored. The Somorrostro district attracted the atten- tion of British ironmasters of S.W. and N. England. The ore is either red or bronze ore hematites. They occur chiefly in the mountain limestone, and are worked in open quarries. Short railways and tramways have been made to San Nicolas on the Nervion, another 15 miles long, and a wire tramway has been constructed by the Goldames Mining Co., who possess a cliff of iron ore about 1 mile long and 280 feet high. It is carried through a tunnel 600 feet long down to Portuga- lete, where quays and landing-stages have been built at Sestao (Pop. 1074). The mineral is carried from the mines of Cobaron San Julian de Marquis by a railway 3 kilometers long to Povena, outside the bar of Somorrostro, when vessels of all kinds can load and un- load there at all hours. Since the Car- list wars of 1873-76 the ore trade has increased rapidly. Excursions. (A) Down the rt. bank of the river to Las Arenas and Portugalete, the port of Bilbao, 7 m. by tramway at frequent intervals. Obs. 1J m. the neat little English Cemetery on an island on the opposite bank. 1J m. farther on, the new Arsenal, and the uncompleted Poor-house close by. The road now passes through the village of Olaviaga, where ocean steamers take in cargo, and across el Puente de Luchana, the scene of one of Espartero’s most decisive victories over the forces of Don Carlos (24 Dec. 1836) and from whence he took his title of Conde ; now a port belonging to the mines of Be- gato. Near it is the station in con- struction for the railway of the mines of Orconera. A little further on obs., on the opposite bank of the river, the extensive iron-works of Baracaldo, be- longing to Ybarra and Co. The iron is of a superior quality, and is manu- factured by the Chenot charcoal pro- cess. Three furnaces are at work at the Desierto and one at Castrejana. The company exported in 1876, 408,880 tons of ore. The tramway terminates at the plea- sant bathing establishment of Las Arenas, at the mouth of the river. The fir-planted sand-dunes, interspersed with the seaside villas of Bilbao mer- chants, form a miniature Arcachon. The Fonda Nueva affords excellent accommodation, 30 to 40 rs. a day, and is much frequented during the bathing season, July 1st to Sept. 30th. The ferry across the river lands us on the opposite point at Portugalete. Pop. 2476. A town of steep streets and ascending hills. There is a small English Church for the accommodation of the large British mining and seafaring community. Flights of steps lead down into the Quay. This place was fearfully bom- barded during the Carlist war of 1873-76. It capitulated in 1874, with the Carlist garrison. Most of the houses have been rebuilt, and the town has gradually resumed its usual aspect. It is much frequented during the summer months by families from the neighbour- hood. Many of the Bilbao merchants have pleasant country houses there. The Church of Santa Maria is a pic- turesque Gothic edifice of 3 naves; obs. the retablo of its principal altar, elaborately carved in oak by an un- known artist. From the Plaza in front of the ch. a fine view is obtained of the long line of foam-crested breakers, which stretch across the mouth of the river, and distinctly define the posi- tion of its dangerous shifting bar, on which, in steam-tugless nights, our an- cient mariners feared to be caught. When the Works at the harbour mouth are completed the navigation is ex- pected to improve. Tramways to Santurce and Bilbao. 192 Route 34 . — San Sebastian to Bilbao . Sect. II. (B) A pleasant walk can be taken to the Punta de Banderas, behind Olaviaga (see above), whence a superb view is obtained of the surrounding hills and valleys, with glimpses of the distant sea. (C) The Paseo de los Canos — up the rt. bank of the river — also affords beau- tiful panoramic views down into the fertile valley of the Nervion : it is one of the favourite promenades of the townsfolk. Pop. 2639. (D) Ascend the hills behind Abando, W. of the town. From them numerous points of view are obtained, from whence the silver line of the Nervion can be traced in one continuous winding course to the restless Bay of Biscay. ROUTE 34. SAN SEBASTIAN TO BILBAO, BY ZARAUZ, DEVA, AND GUERNICA — OR BY CESTONA, AZPEITIA, LOYOLA, EYBAR, AND DURANGO. There are 2 roads which connect San Sebastian with Bilbao besides the railway by Miranda, (A) by the sea- coast and Guernica, (B) hy the valley of Loyola. We give them both. Diligences leave the Boulevard at San Sebastian daily. (A) The diligence-road between San Sebastian and Guernica is of recent construction. It passes through a beautiful and well-cultivated country. Taking the main road to Madrid, and skirting the bay of St. Sebastian, at 4J miles we turn to the right and enter the valley of the Oria. A good carriage-road leads down the right bank of this river, which rises near the Puerto San Adrian. 6| m. TJsurbil. Pop. 1800. Observe its picturesque Parroquia. Hence the scenery of the valley becomes finer, and the road is cut out of steep rocks on the right. 5| m. Orio, a dirty village inhabited by fishermen and shipwrights. Here the Oria finishes its beautiful course to the sea, being separated by a narrow ridge from the basin of the Deva. It was formerly crossed by a fine bridge, which has not yet (1880) been rebuilt since its destruction by the Carlists. A footbridge alone remains for pas- sengers, whilst vehicles and animals cross by a ferry-boat. The roads wind up the mountain range on the S. bank through a pretty wood, at the top of which a narrow Puerto is traversed, and we suddenly burst on a beautiful and well-cultivated plain, at the W. end of which, on the seashore, is 5J m. Zarauz. Pop. 2120. A good Parador where the diligences stop, kept by Vicente Otamenti. Although the beach is fine and sandy it is totally unprotected from the heavy Atlantic swell, which renders the bathing some- what dangerous. Several of the nobility of Madrid have marine villas in the neighbourhood. In the parish Church there are three retablos, all ornamented with good Italian sculptures of the 16th century. In the former convent of San Francisco may be seen several large pictures which belonged formerly to a triptych. One of them is signed Ablocklani. Inve. 1677. Notice in the principal street an interesting house with a stone faQade of the 15th century, and a half ruined tower. Zarauz suffered much duringthe Carlist war, but the pleasant road along the coast to Guetaria has been thoroughly repaired, and is in good condition.' 2J m. Guetaria. Fine port for ves- sels of all sizes. Pop. 1013. A small port protected by 2 moles. The ch. is a very remarkable Gothic edifice of the 13th centy. in a sad state of dila- pidation. The navigator Juan Sebas- Basque Provinces. Boute 34. — Zumaya — Guernica . 193 tian de Elcano is buried there, who in 1519 started from Seville to go round the world for the first time. He re- turned to San Lucar de Barrameda in 1522. Outside the spot occupied by the house in the Port, which he inha- bited, a bronze statue has been erected. The trout-haunted stream of the Urola (ur, water, ola, smithy) is crossed by a bridge at Oiquina, shortly before reaching 3 m. Zumaya. Pop. 1788. An an- cient Roman town, situated on a pro- montory. From its proximity to Ces- tona (see p. 194) it is resorted to by invalids from the Thermal establish- ment, who here complete their mineral water cure by a course of sea-bathing. Obs. the battered Ch. of San Pedro. Skirting the Gulf of Cantabria, the road continues to 6f m. Deva. Pop. 3265. A charm- ingly situated town with two Plazas, streets intersecting each other at right angles, and a parish Ch. which is con- sidered second to none in the Basque provinces. Visit the elegant cloister. The portal is Gothic, and undoubtedly the best example of the kind in the Basque provinces. Its Town Hall is a well-built modern edifice, with portico and clock-tower. Deva is fast becom- ing one of the most favourite summer resorts of the citizens of Madrid. The house of the Marques de Valmar is worth visiting. The mantos worn by the women of the locality on their heads are most picturesque. On Sundays the traveller might think himself transported back to the 16th century. 2 m. Motrico. Pop. 3316. The name in Basque signifies a hedgehog (tricu), which the rock near which the town is built is said to resemble. The pretty port is surrounded by wooded hills; the cottages of the fishermen are luxuriantly trellised over with vines, and the country around teems with fruit of every description. Much fish is sent from here to the markets of Madrid, Burgos, Valladolid, &c. A [Spain, 1882.] red chacoli wine is produced in the neighbourhood. The Church is modern : obs. in the sacristy a Crucifixion, by Murillo. The country houses of Gen. Castaneda and M. Montalibet (containing a few good pictures) are amongst the numerous villa residences of the place. Admiral Churruca was born here ; he died at Trafalgar; a statue has been erected to his memory on the Plaza. The first stone of the pedestal was placed by Isabel II. Visit the house which belonged to him. Before reaching Ondarroa, the plea- sant bathing locality of Saturraran is reached, much frequented by visitors from Madrid. 2} m. Ondarroa — the mouth of sand — (Pop. 2747) is a snug but shallow little port, with a decent ch., and a good bridge over its river. The road, said to be of Roman origin, passes the vill. of Mendeja, and along through the country to 6 m. Lequeitio. Pop. 2530. The town is built on a strong position, and is girdled by the hills of Lumencha and Otova. The church, Nuestra Sehora de la Asuncion, is a beautiful structure of very ancient date. Obs. the pictur- esque Casa de Adan. A fine bridge, of one imposing arch, spans the river Lequeitio, and leads to the foot of the Alto de Lequeitio, whence a most com- manding view is obtained of the coast, the sea, and the inland range of hills. The road now continues through La Puebla de Ea, and the communes of Ereno and Ibarranguela, to 14f m. Guernica. Pop. 630. Guer- nica, as its Basque name signifies, is placed on the “ slope of a hill,” below which is a “ reedy flat,” called el Jun- cal, much subject to inundations, and full of snipes and wild-fowl in winter. At Guernica was held the Parliament of Basque senators, or apoderados de las ante-iglesias. This Calzarro con- gress , or Witenagemote , originally sat near the hermitage of Na. 8a. de la Antigua, under the overspreading canopy of an ancient oak, which the o 194 Sect. II. Boute 34. — Bermeo- town still bears on its shield. The present oak was planted about 1811, when its predecessor fell from decay, leaving other striplings raised from its acorns. Among rude primitive people, before temples were raised by the hand, a noble tree inspired a rever- ential awe and was dedicated to the Deity. Such was the sacred A pvs of the Druids ; such were the Ygdraisel , or consecrated trees, under which were seated the twelve deified judges of the Norwegians. The ch., of the 15th centy., is spacious : obs. statue of the Virgin in chapel, enclosed by a remark- able iron grating. The casas consistoriales , and more than half the town of Guernica, were burnt in 1794 by the French repub- licans ; they cut down the time- honoured oak of the free Basques, a tree which was very old even in 1334 (see Mariana, xvi. 3) ; it was one “ Keligione patrum longos servata per annos,” under whose venerable canopy Ferdinand and Isabel swore in 1476 to uphold the Basque Fueros , as their grandson Charles V. did again, April 5, 1526. The oak of Guernica was a refuge for debtors, and formed a sort of place of habeas corpus return, or court of appeal, as no Basque could be arrested without a summons to ap- pear under it, and learn the charge against him, and thus prepare his defence. The Casa de Juntas, built in 1826, is an ungainly mass of stone, a sort of Corinthian summer-house; in it may be seen portraits of Basque worthies. The Basque senators as- semble July 1 every two years. The Castle of Arteaga, with its don- jon keep, is an old possession of the Montejo family, and was restored in sumptuous style by the late Empress of the French, but never finished. The road from Guernica passes through the hamlets of Murueta, and Pedernales, to 8| m. Mundaca. Pop. 1800. Famous for its tunny fisheries. 2 m. Bermeo (Flavio Briga), con- taining 8222 amphibious Inhab. en- gaged in the catching of tunny and stock fish, which are sent off to Madrid and other inland cities, In its parish — Baths of Cestona. Church of Santa Eufemia the kings of Castile used to swear to observe the Fueros of the Basque provinces. Obs. also the tomb of Cardinal Mendoza and others; visit the Casa Solar of Alonso de Ercilla, the author of 1 La Araucana/ the soldier-poet of Spain. He wrote all his finest stanzas on the pommel of his saddle. At one end of the peninsula rises an old red fort. 10J m. Munguia. Pop. 2058. The little town is situated in the midst of a highly cultivated valley. Obs. its ancient ch., and the old manorial Pa- lacio de Abajo and splendid tower (built in 1360), which is now the pro- perty of La Marquesa del Duero. 9J m. Begona. Pop. 1877. A yearly pilgrimage is made to its ch. to visit the ancient images of La Virgen de Begona. Notice the quantity of ex votos hanging on the walls. Zuma- lacaregiu was wounded there. All these villages and towns have suffered considerable damage during the last Carlist war, 1872-76. 2f m. Bilbao. Pop. 35,227. (See Rte. 33.) (B) By the valley of Loyola, 65J Eng. m. The route is already described in (A) as far as 13Jm. Zarauz. Pop. 2204. The road thence ascends through the fertile val- ley of Urola to 6J m. Cestona. Pop. 2469. Situated on the river Urola. Here is the source of the mineral waters which supply the 1 m. Baths of Cestona. Fonda, good and reasonable in its charges. El Establecimiento, on 1. bank of the river, has accommodation for 210 per- sons. Terms for board and lodging per diem, 1st class, 32 reals; 2nd class, 16 reals; 3rd class, 12 reals. Bath 8 reals. The warm water is con- veyed into stone basins which are sunk in the bathing chambers. The mineral waters of Cestona are invaluable in cases of muscular rheu- matism, gout, neuralgia, and paralysis. Basque Provinces. 'Route 3L— Azpeitia — Azcoitia— Durango. 195 Consumptive people must, however, especially avoid them. Delightful excursions in the neigh- bourhood : pleasure boats on the Urola : mules for mountain excursions. Leaving the baths, we next arrive at 4J m. Azpeitia. Inn : Parador Nuevo. Pop. 6379. The town is sur- rounded by walls, and is entered by four gates : it is pleasantly situated at the foot of Mount Izarraiz. Its ch. of Na. Sa. de la Soiedad contains a silver statuette of San Ignacio Loyola, the founder of the holy Order of Jesus, who was born 1 m. from hence. In the parochial Ch. of San Sebastian is the Pila , or font, at which Loyola was baptized ; and in one of the cha- pels the marble sepulchre of Bishop Zurbano, ob. 1510. Mothers flock to this church to have their boy-babies christened Ignacio, and women offer their shifts at the shrine in hopes of becoming happy mothers. The Doric facade of the ch. is the work of Ven- tura Rodriguez (1767). In the cen- tral street of Azpeitia there are two very remarkable houses with Moorish fa$ades of brickwork, of the 15th cent. : excellent examples of their kind. The road continues up the delicious green valley of Loyola to the 1 m. Santa Casa and Convent where Ignatius de Loyola was born in 1491. The Convent was built to enclose the residence formerly occupied by the Loyola family, by Maria Ana of Aus- tria, wife of Philip IV. The architect was Fontana. It was built in the shape of a spread-eagle. The Ch., built in imitation of the Pantheon at Rome, is full of rich marbles from Mont Izar- raiz, mosaics, and gilding, in the worst possible taste; and, notwithstanding its vast size, the impression it gives is anything but a pleasant one. The entrance hall is noble, and the double corridor beyond is handsome. Obs. the chapel in which Loyola recovered from the wounds received at Pamplona. It is divided by a reja , and ornamented by bold carvings in illustration of the life and adventures 1 of the saint. Here it is said the! | Virgin Mary descended to attend to I the wounded man. The small door of ‘ the sanctuary is closed with the ori- ginal bolt of the door of the Saint’s farm. It is now a seminary for J esuits. A Romeria (pilgrimage) is made to the Santa Casa on the 31st of July, at which time a grand public festival is attended by a great number of persons from every part of Spain. Travellers in this neighbourhood should endea- vour to be present, as they will have a good idea of this picturesque fete. The Zorzico is danced with great solemnity in the Plaza. * One day is devoted to Novillos, and the third to a Juego de Pelota , which is well worth seeing. 2 m. Azcoitia. Pop. 4901. There is a large manufacture of boinas, the cap worn by the peasantry here. Obs. in Church of Santa Maria la Real, the elaborately carved stalls. In the tran- sept on the Epistle side there is a good retablo, containing eight pictures, painted in Seville in 1568. The rest of the interior of the ch. is tawdry and in bad taste. 7g- m. Elgoibar. Pop. 3391. Inn : Fonda. A well-frequented mineral bathing establishment, the waters of which are peculiarly efficacious in cer- tain diseases of the urinary organs. 2J m. Eibar. Pop. 4149. Here is an important fire-arm industry fitted with English machinery. Besides the government arm manufactory, Eibar is celebrated for the beautiful iron in- laid with gold work ( damasquine ), made by Sr. Zuluaga. The most important specimen of this manufactory is Gene- ral Prim’s tomb at the church of Atocha, Madrid. A great variety of small objects of every kind are also made there. In the immediate vicinity is the hermitage of la Natividad de Nuestra Senora, surrounded by nlantations of oak and beech. 3 m. Ermua. Pop. 717. The road continues through a remarkably fertile country to 7 m. Durango. Pop. 6195. A Swiss- like old town with rectangular streets and pleasant alamedas. Its Ch. of San jpedro do Tavira is one of the most o 2 196 Btes. 35, 36 . — Tolosa and Vitoria to Bilbao . Sect. II. ancient in the Basque provinces. Ob s. two curious tombs which it contains. The altar in the Ch. of Santa Ana was raised in 1774 by the architect Ven- tura Bodriguez. Durango has always been considered an important military position. This locality was occupied by the Carlists from 1872 to 1876, and has suffered the usual fate of towns occupied and de- fended during a war. At the hermitage of San Antolin — near to the town — Maroto met Espar- tero — August 25th, 1889, to plan the betrayal of Don Carlos, who, instead of boldly marching against his traitor- general, lied hence to Villareal and thus encouraged defection. 6| m. Zornoza. In the neighbourhood on the other side of the river. On the heights over Zornoza there was a sharp skirmish in 1808 between Generals Blake, Victor, and Lefevre. In July 1872, the Convenio of Amoravieta was signed. The road now passes the hermitage of Herieche, and the hamlets of Urgoiti and Galdacano to 10J m. Bilbao. (See Bte. 33.) BOUTE 35. TOLOSA. TO BILBAO. 53 J m. This is a good diligence-road, with a regular Diligence service. Tolosa. Pop. 8357. (See Bte. 1.) Leaving Tolosa the road passes to the 1. the extensive cloth manufactory of Lesperut, Biverd y C ia . 6 m. Vidania. Pop. 708. Soon after passing this little hamlet the road rises, by a difficult ascent, through the moun- tains of Hernio, to a summit-level of 1700 ft. above the sea. The scenery is charming; the views obtained at various points during the ascent are grand. Descending again, the village of Govaz is left to the rt. Soon the valley of Loyola opens to view with the two towns of Azpeitia and Azcoitia in front. 8J m. Azpeitia. Pop. 6379. (See Bte. 34.) From hence to 39 m. Bilbao. (See Bte. 33.) BOUTE 36. VITORIA TO BILBAO. 44 1U. Diligence daily. Vitoria. Pop. 26,921. (See Bte. 1.) The villages of Gamarra Mayor and Menor are first passed, and then the Bio Zadorra is crossed upon a bridge of 8 arches to 7 m. Villareal de Alava. Pop. 1599. This village, which is surrounded by mountains and pine forests, is situated in the centre of a district remarkable for the number of its sulphurous springs : that which is best known is at the hamlet of Aramayona, 6J m. to the rt. A road leaves Villareal for Bilbao which passes through the beautiful valley of Arrabia. The mountains of Albertina and Bostibayeta, with their iron and copper mines, and black marble quarries, are now traversed to 4 m. Ochandiano. Pop. 1924. The town-hall of this ancient little town has its fa$ade sculptured with the arms of Biscay and Castile quartered with its own. Its Parroquia has a tall and elegant steeple. [3 m. to the rt. is the sanctuary of San Antonio Abad, which is situated near Moiit hr- quiola. Well worth a visit.] 197 Basque Provinces. Boute 37 . — Bilbao to Santander . 8 m. Manaria. Pop. 634. Near here are the marble-mines from which were quarried the black marble columns used in the construction of the chapel in the Eoyal Palace, Madrid. In July 1872 there was a sharp engage- ment here, in which the Carlists were routed. 8 m. Durango. Pop. 6195. (See Rte. 34.) From Durango to 1 m. Bilbao. (See Rte. 33.) ROUTE 37. BILBAO TO SANTANDER, BY SANTONA. 46J m. Bilbao. (See Rte. 33.) From Bilbao the excellent diligence- road runs parallel to the river Nervion to 7 m. Portugalete, Pop. 2476, the port of Bilbao. (See Rte. 33.) 3 m. Somorrostro. Near the village are the celebrated iron-mines of Somorrostro, one of the richest per- oxide of iron deposits in Europe. This district has been immemorially celebrated for its iron ; the ore occurs abundantly in beds from 3 to 10 ft. deep. The sword steel here produced was that used by the Toledan sword manufactures. The “ good Bilbos ’ ’ of Falstaff were wrought from the pro- duce of the Triano hill. This district has received so great an impulse, that five railways take the mineral to the Ria of Bilbao. Krupp has established works there in order to supply his depot at Essen. The principal mine now belongs to Ybarra y C ia . Outside the bar is the wharf of Povena, which communicates with the mines of Coba- zon by rail. Vessels of all kinds can load and unload from there. (See Rte. 33.) Somorrostro played a great part in the Carlist war. In February 1874 the Liberal army attacked the Carlist positions and was driven back with a considerable loss. On March 25, 26, 27, the army renewed their attack, but were unable to pass further than San Pedro Abanto ; but soon afterwards these positions were taken by the Marques del Duero, who thereby raised the siege of Bilbao. 7 m. Castro Ur diales (Pop. 7578). This pretty port, with its bay, head- land, rocks, castle, and hermitage of Santa Ana, was made for the artist. At San Anton, near the town, is a ruined convent formerly belonging to the Knights Templars. The rocky hills which surround the town are terraced with vines which produce a light Chacoli wine much drunk — mixed with water — during the summer months. 5 m. Orinon. A small port consist- ing of a picturesque cluster of 38 houses, and placed at the confluence of a small river of the same name. The river is crossed in a ferry boat. 3 m. Laredo. Pop. 4386. This port is protected by its headland, and by the fort de Rastillar , which defends the S. side of the bay. It contained, in the time of the Romans, 14,000 Inha- bitants. The bay contracts a little higher up, and is crossed by a ferry called el Pasage de Salve, to 3J in. Santona. Pop. 5124. This small seaport town rises opposite to Laredo. It was formed by nature, from its naturally strong and easily defended position, to be the Gibraltar of Cantabria, and great fortifications are in course of construction. Visit the Ch. of La Virgen del Puerto, which contains the miraculous image of the patroness of this parroquia; it came from Antioch. The grand fete, held Sept. 7th, in its honour, is a very pic- turesque sight. The Franciscan con- vent may also be visited ; it lies higher up the arm of the sea, on the Canal de Ano. An excellent college has been built here by the wealthy banker Manzanedo. 198 Btes. 38, 39 . — Bilbao to From Santona a small export trade j is done in corn from Castile, and in iron from the adjoining mines. The storms on the coast are sometimes terrific, for here on this ironbound coast the mighty Atlantic is first repelled, and the volume of water thrown back upon the incoming waves often causes a tremendous sea even in times when no wind is blowing. Here in Oct. 1810, an entire British squad- ron under Admiral Popham suffered severely. 2J m. Noja (Pop. 636). i 2 m. Arnuero. Ajo. Pop. 1443. Situated upon the mouth of the Rio Solorzano. 6 m. Galizano, a small fishing vil- lage. The fish on this coast are very plentiful, the besugo and bonito (Sea Bream and Scomber Pilamis) are espe- cially excellent. 7i m. Santander. (See Rte. 24.) ROUTE 38. BILBAO TO VILLAREAL. 38| m. Bilbao. (See Rte. 33.) From Bilbao the diligence road is taken to 17 m. Durango. (See Rte. 34.) 2J m. Abadiano. Pop. 2050. No- tice in this neighbourhood the pic- turesque manor-houses with their por- tals sculptured with armorial devices. Obs. the interesting and very ancient jparroquia. In January 1876 there was a sharp engagement here between Carlists and Liberals. 4 m. Elorria. Pop. 2780. Here are 2 iron foundries and the famous mine- ral springs. 3 m. Elqueta. Pop. 2378. Situated in the midst of a rich and picturesque valley. Between Elorio and Elqueta Villareal and %umaya. Sect. II. there was much fighting between the Carlists and Liberals in February 1876. Shortly before reaching the next town, a road diverges 1. which follows the valley of the Deva and joins the diligence-road to Plasencia and El- goibar. 3J m. Vergara. (Inn: Parador de las Diligencias; Pop. 5726.) This Swiss-like town is situated upon the Rio Deva, in a pleasant basin girdled by mountains. Visit its parroquia Ban Pedro. In a little cajpilla , which is entered from behind the Coro, obs. a fine statue of the Agony on the Cross, the work of Juan Martinez Montanes. In the Church of Santa Marina de Oxirundo, obs. the Christ o f Burgos by Mateo Cerezo. The Casa Consistorial on the Plaza should also be noticed. There is an important first-class educational establishment there. Vergara is famous for its cele- brated convenio with the Carlists in 1839. 2 m. Anzuola. Pop. 1521. Situated in a valley surrounded by mountains. In the adjoining hamlet of Uzarraga, obs. the ancient Ch. of San Juan Bau- tista, which formerly belonged to the Knights Templars. At the town-hall of Anzuola may be seen an ancient Moorish banner. 5J m. Villareal. Pop. 997. (Zumar- raga, Pop. 1679) Stat. on the Northern Railway. (See Rte. 1.) ROUTE 39. VILLAREAL TO THE CONVENT OF LOYOLA, THE BATHS OF CESTONA, AND ZUMAYA. 15 m. Villareal (see Rte. 1). This stat., on the Northern Railway of Spain, is the most convenient point from which 199 Villareal to Arechavaleta . Basque Provinces. Boute 40. — to visit the valley of Loyola, the Baths ' of Cestona, and the seaside watering- place of Zumaya. Pop. 1788. From Villareal the road passes through a beautiful and well-cultivated country to 4£ m. Azcoitia. (See Rte. 34.) 2§ m. Azpeitia. 1 m. from this vil- lage are the Convent and Santa Casa of Ignacio Loyola (Rte. 34). From Azpeitia, continuing the rte., we next visit : 3 m. The Baths of Cestona. For description of this Thermal establish- ment, see Rte. 34. The road continues to ; 3 m. Zumaya. This seaside water- ing-place is described at Rte. 34. ROUTE 40. VILLAREAL TO THE BATHS OF SANTA AGTJEDA AND ARECHAVALETA. Villareal (see Rte. 1). The road is the same as that described in Rte. 38, ag £LS 7Jm. Vergara. Pop. 5726. (Rte. 38.) Hence the road passes through the locality where the Convenio of Vergara was signed, and winds through Welsh- like hills, maize crops, and chestnut groves, to 5 m. Mondragon. (Inn : Paradox- de las Diligencias, decent ; Pop. 2833.) A walled town placed upon the beauti- ful Deva, and also watered by the Ara- mayona. Here is an iron mine of most remote antiquity. It is situated in the hill El Campanzar, which may, in the words of Pliny (N. H. xxxiv. 14), be correctly termed a “hill of iron. ,, The ore as found is in appearance like a red ochre earth, and yields nearly 45 per cent, of the finest metal. V ery fine iron is also procured from the adjoin- ing Mina de hierro helada, tl the mine of congealed iron,” and from la Cueva de TJdala. From Mondragon 2 roads branch off rt. and 1. ; the first (A) to Guesalibar, and the Baths of Santa Agueda ; the second (B) to the Baths of Arechava- leta. (A) From Mondragon the road tra- verses the beautiful and well-cultivated valley of the Aramayona to 2 m. Guesalibar, where are situated the Baths of Santa Agueda. ( Inn : El Establecimiento ; accommodation for 80 persons; elegantly fitted up, and contains reading and billiard-rooms, and a charming little garden. Prices — 1st class, 45 r. per diem ; 2nd class, 30 r. ; bath, 6 r.) This establishment is considered the best of its kind in Spain. The cuisine is first-rate. There are also two comfortable hotels in the place. Diligence service, during the season (June 1 to Sept. 30), between the baths and Mondragon, and Villa- real. The baths were erected in 1825 ; the waters are nitrogene-sulphuric, cold, and peculiarly efficacious in syphilitic, scrofulous, and neuralgic affections. The establishment contains 14 separate bath-rooms, each with its marble bath. The water is heated artificially. (B) From Mondragon to the Baths of Arechavaleta, the old diligence-road to Madrid is followed. 4. m. Arechavaleta. Pop. 1819. (Inn : El Establecimiento : accommodation and prices the same as at Santa Agueda.) The mineral waters are similar to those of Santa Agueda, but contain a larger amount of gas. Season, J une 1 to Sept. 30. This establishment was first opened in 1842. The neigh- bourhood is pleasant, and the climate is peculiarly salubrious. There is another excellent establishment near called Otalora. [Visitors may vary the above route, and rejoin the rly. at Vitoria instead of Villareal. The old Camino Real to Vitoria (14 m.) passes through Escoriaza, where the poor In- fanta Pilar died in 1879 while taking the mineral waters (2000 Inhab.), Cas- tanares and Salina de Lenis.] ( 200 ) Sect. III. SECTION III. LEON. THE ASTURIAS. GALICIA. A circuitous means of access, by rail, from Madrid to the remote province of Galicia is now opened by through communication in 34 hours on the lines from Madrid to Caceres (Rte. 74), Valencia de Alcantara, Coimbra (in Portugal), and Tuy; excepting a break of 8 kilo, by omnibus, including a ferry over River Mino until a bridge is finished. El Reino de Leon. — This, the most ancient of the once independent king- doms of the Peninsula, runs up from the plains of the Castiles into the spurs of the Asturian and Galician Sierras. The natives were amongst the earliest in the Peninsula to expel the Moor, whose hold, however, was slight, and whose resistance was feeble, when compared to his deep-fanged retention and defence of Andalucia. Nor, when we behold the dreary steppes and rugged hills of Leon, and pass over the mountain barrier into the cold damp Asturias, can we be surprised that the Arab, the lover of the sun and plain, should turn readily to the more genial south. The Christian dominion was extended by Alonso el Catoiico, who between a.d. 739 and 757 overran and reconquered the plains down to the Duero and Tormes. The Moors nevertheless continued to make annual Atgaras or forays into these parts, more for purposes of plunder than reconquest. Thus this frontier arena was alternately in the power of Christian and Infidel, until about the year 940, when Garcia removed the court from Oviedo to Leon, and gave its name to his new kingdom, to distin- guish it from those of Castile and Navarre, and other counties and lordships. The early Christian counts, lords, dukes, or kings (sheikhs in reality), were rivals to each other, and, when nut at war with the Moor, quarrelled among themselves after the true Iberian fashion. The male line of Leon failed in 1037 with Bermudo III., whose daughter carried the crown to her husband Ferdinand of Castile, who redivided his domains by his will, which, however, his son Sancho reunited ; Leon and Castile were finally joined in the person of St. Ferdinand, and have never since been separated. The kingdom contains about 20,000 square miles, with a million in- habitants. Since 1874 a great improvement has taken place in the agricul- ture of the province. Machinery has been employed with admirable results. The quality of the soil is especially adapted to ploughing, reaping, and threshing machines. The Leouese are influenced by local differences, and modified by the nature by which they are surrounded. Thus, near the Sil, they resemble the Ga- lician mountaineers, as in the Sierras, near the Asturias, they partake of the Asturians, while in the southern portions they differ very little from the old Castilians. The lofty cordillera, the backbone, which separates Leon from the Asturias and is often covered with snow, is cold, and wind-blown, some portions being well timbered, while the pastoral valleys are refreshed by infinite streams, and produce much corn and garbanzos and a strong red wine. The marly fresh- water basin, or tierra de Campos, between Zamora and Leon, is the land of Ceres ; but nowhere is the population more scanty or miserable ; they dwell in mud hovels made of unbaked bricks, or adobes , the precise Arabic at-tob, which vie with the wigwams of La Mancha in discomfort. This tract is as un- interesting as the ventas are uncomfortable; the apologies for roads are In trod. The Asturias . 201 clouded in summer in a salitrose dust, which seems ignited under the African sun. The houses of the humble Leonese are substantially furnished and clean, one peculiarity being the loftiness of the beds; the mattresses and pillows, eolchones y almohadas, are often embroidered with heraldic lions and castles, and the coarse but clean homespun sheets are fringed with flecos y randas. Costume naturally exists where there is so little communication with the outer world. The dresses, worn only on holidays, last long. Obs. especially the costume of the Maragatos. The Maragatos have kept their costume from the 17th century, which consists of a broad-brimmed hat, an embroidered shirt, held together by a silver button ; a red waistcoat, a jacket with flaps, full trousers to the knee, greguescos, worsted stockings, and shoes with silver buckles. The women wear a petticoat manteo and manto (mantilla) ; but the great peculiarity of their dress consists in an enormous necklace, which covers their whole body, and to which are suspended large relicarios, which may still be bought at Astorga and Salamanca. These necklaces are less common than they were, but still a rich bride glories in wearing 13 pounds of weight round her neck on her wedding-day. The national costume, in other points, of the province of Leon is disappearing every day. In the districts between Benavente and the capital, Leon, the men spin and the women delve. Their delight is in telling ghost stories, el filanquiero , and in offering at harvest-time to venerated images an amount of corn equal in weight to that of the local idol. In the mountain- chain, the Arguellos or Mediania, which separates Leon from the Asturias, the highlanders are wild as their country, agricultural and pastoral after the most antiquated and vicious system. The waste of water-power and wood is prodigious. Of the encinas , or oak-trees, rude sticks, shillelahs, are made, and gabuzos , or wood candles, constructed from the Brezo. N.B. Among the apples eat the Be- pinaldo ; the strawberries and arbutus, Memendanos , may also be remembered, and the mutton confection, the Caldereta. El Principado de las Asturias (the walls of the Peninsula). — This Princi- pality has always been the mountain refuge of the aboriginal inhabitants of the Peninsula, who have here remained unconquered alike by Roman and Moor. It forms a mountain region lying between the Bay of Biscay to the N. and the kingdom of Leon to the S. The course of the mountain ranges and the direc- tion of the valleys is very irregular. To the eastward the mountains extend through the adjoining province of Santander, and the highest summits of this part of Spain, called Los Picos de Europa, lie in a rugged, almost isolated group, forming the boundary between the two provinces. They attain nearly 8800 feet from the sea. The clouds, with shadowy wings, always hover above these mountain ranges, which thus become a huge alembic to catch and con- dense the sea-mists from the Atlantic. The entire area of the province contains 310 square leagues, and is divided into 69 concejos , councils or districts ; Pop. about 350,000. The Principality is a land of hill and dale, river and forest ; the climate is damp ; cold in winter, and temperate in summer ; it is a mild form of Devonshire on a larger scale, for some of the elevations rise to more than 9000 feet above the sea-level. Wheat is scarce in these humid regions, and the staple food is maize ; when made into bread it is called borona. The stalks and leaves of maize supply excellent food for cattle, the sheaths for bedding. A good bread, not so white as that made from Castilian corn, is made of Escanda , a sort of spelt wheat, which ripens in August. A con- siderable number of cattle are reared here, where, as in Galicia, bullocks do the work of horses, as women do of asses and men. A natural timber of oak, beech, chestnut, silver and Scotch firs, is very fine, although the woods are much neglected or destroyed; but in remote districts, • where safe from the axe, the timber is superb. Minerals abound, and many coal and iron works have been established by foreigners. The flowers, vege- 202 Leon — The Asturias. Sect. III. tables, fruits, and cider, resemble those of the West of England : near the coast and in the valleys of the interior, orange and lemon trees grow to great perfec- tion. The hills used to abound in game, and the rivers with salmon, shad, trout, and eels ; but they are sadly poached all the year round, salmon har- pooned and all game and fishery laws entirely disregarded, and the water is often out of order. The horses, as in the times of Silius Italicus (iii. 535), although small, are safe and active, being better cobs than chargers. Nero rejoiced in his Asturcon (Suet. 56); but these mountaineers are better walkers than riders, and use their arms quite as vigorously as their legs, being excellent singlestick players and dancers. The national jigs are La Muneira and la Lanza prima , and a cudgel capering of remote antiquity, closely resem- bling la Lanza del baston of the Catalans. In the Asturias, a country little exposed to Moorish and Spanish forays, security of person and property has long existed. Accordingly the peasantry, instead of herding for protection in walled towns, live in small farms, and often own the fields they cultivate. Land in general is more subdivided here than in the south, where large districts were granted to the conquistadores who assisted in ousting the infidel occupants. The costume of the lower classes is Swiss-like ; the females, when dressed in their best, wear bodices of yellow or green, laced in front and adorned with gold joyas, and coral necklaces. Dark- coloured serges and black mantles or dengues are thrown over the head ; some- times pretty handkerchiefs are used, which are tied loosely round the front, while the hair hangs down behind in long plaits or trenzas. The rude Galician madrehas , or sabots, wooden shoes, are here often replaced by leather ones, and a small sock, edged with red or yellow, is worn over the stockings. The men generally wear home-spun linen cloth, and a black cloth cap. They delight in skittles. Stout in body and enduring in habits, the simple natives retain in thought and deed many an old way obsolete elsewhere. The curious in local customs may observe their Medidas y Colonias , or scapularies touched by images, and held to be phylacteries or talismans — may listen to the tales of Xanas , prying fairies or elves — may attend their filas or tertulias, where the men smoke while the women spin ; or be present at the JEsfoyanas , when the maize stalks are picked clean from rubbish ; or at the Komerias or fairs held on the anniversary of the Patron of the village church. Their dancing on the greensward is most picturesque ; the songs that accompany it are very ancient. They may partake of the Ramos or piled pic-nic dishes, or taste the Oblada , the eating offering at funerals, where the priests have the best place, sell the offering, and pocket the proceeds as their pitanza (pittance). The fear of the evil eye is very prevalent, but the panacea is a drink of hartshorn shavings. Both sexes are kind, civil, and well-mannered, especially the women, who are gentle and attentive to the stranger. The Sunday romerias to the village church are most picturesque, and on no account should be passed by without a visit. The Iberian word ast implies elevation ; thus ast thor has been interpreted the “ gate of lofty rocks.” The Asturians, however, love to derive the name from Ayster or “ armiger ,” who, they say, settled here after the fall of Troy (Sil. Ital. iii. 334;, just as Santiago did in the equally out-of-the way damp Galicia. Be that as it may, the Astures were scarcely known before the reign of Augustus, and were then, like the Cantabrians, brought into subjection more in name than in reality. Nor were they mastered by the Goths, against whom they constantly rebeiled (San. Isid., er. 641;. The Saracenic deluge, which swept unresisted from the East, was first checked and beaten back from these mountains, to which the highlanders are fondly attached ; and here, in spite of damp, hard fare, and harder work, the average of life is long. The males migrate, and do the work at Madrid of coachmen, hewers of wood and drawers of water. They also become valets, indoor servants — the Swiss of Spain — faithful, but interested — point d* argent point d'Asturien, Introd. The Asturias. 203 Many of the natives, and especially Los Montaneses and those who come from Las Montanas, the hills near Santander, keep the chandlers’ and small grocery shops in other parts of Spain : many others seek employment in the large towns of the south, where they frequently become rich, for, like their ancestors (Astur avarus, Sil. Ital. i. 231 ; Mart. x. 16. 3), they are honest, thrifty, and careful of their hard-earned gains. Both male and female are much subject to bronchocele or goitre , papera, lamparon , and to the mol de rosa , a sort of erysipelatous scurvy. The Asturias, during the Peninsular War, produced many notorious per- sonages, of whom the best was Jovellanos. Prom this, his native province, Toreno set sail, to crave that aid from England which he lived to try to write down. Biego, the leader of the constitutional rebellion in 1820, Arguelles el divino , Cayetano Valdes, and sundry stars of the Cadiz Cortes, rose also in these misty hills. Good roads now give access to all the larger towns in Asturias. The means of conveyance, however, for travellers are extremely limited. Excepting the diligence which plies from Oviedo to Santander, taking two long days for the journey, and the railway from the same city to Gijon, there are no public vehicles excepting small rickety omnibuses plying from one small town to another. A steam tramway is projected round the coast, 1882. Car- riages to hire are very rarely met with. It is sometimes possible to engage an omnibus for the strangers exclusive use, but at an exorbitant price. More frequently a carrito or small tartana, a cart without springs, but covered over at the top, may be found in country places ; but the charges are very high. In the country inns the beds and bedding are tolerable ; but the sleeping-place is very often a mere closet, opening on a passage or the dining-room, where country people remain until midnight. The cross com- munications are impracticable for carriages, though delightful to the young horseman or pedestrian, the artist, and the angler ; whether he wanders inland, or coasts the Bay of Biscay, nothing can be more charming than this sweet interchange of Alpine hills and valleys, rivers, woods, and plains, now land, now sea. The antiquary and lover of romantic annals will remember that this corner to which the soldier remnant of the Goth fled, is the rude cradle from whence Pelayus sallied forth to reconstruct the shattered monarchy and religion of Don Boderick, and here the first blow was dealt which prevented Europe from being Mahomedan. Here will be found sites and churches of the highest interest. The extreme antiquity of the creed is evidenced by the pri- mitive names of the parishes, and by the old quaint saints who are still their tutelars, although elsewhere either unknown or obsolete. Many of the original churches still remain, like fossils of an early ecclesio- logical strata; antiquarians should therefore especially notice the parish churches in the Asturias ; many, particularly the rural districts, are of the remotest antiquity, and offer specimens of the primitive period. The patois spoken by the' peasantry, which differs from the Galician, and is called Bable, was one of the first approaches of the Gotho-Spaniard to the Romance and present Castilian idiom. It is much to be lamented that no dili- gent German has collected its remains, whether in proverbs or in ballads, for in these, beside s being the germs of language, many curious relics of early manners and history are doubtless preserved. This fault will be remedied by the publications of the Spanish Folk Lore Society.* The Asturias has hitherto given the title of prince to the Spanish heir- * For some scanty remarks on this Bable, see Duran iv. 41. Some relics are preserved in the * Coleccion de Poesias en dialecto Asturiano,’ Oviedo, 8vo, 1839, and ‘ Coleccion de Poesias en el dialecto Assuriano,’ Jose (Javeda, 4to, Mad., 1»49. The antiquary may consult, lor this province, ‘El Yiage de Morales,’ published by Florez, in folio, Madrid, 1765 ; ‘Cronica General de Espana,’ by Morales ; also the ‘ Esp. Sag.’ vols. 37, 38, 204 Galicia. Sect. III. apparent, which was done in professed imitation of our Prince of Wales, and at the desire of the Duke of Lancaster in 1388, when his daughter Constance j married Enrique, eldest son of Juan I. El Keino de Galicia. This once independent kingdom forms the N.W. angle of the Peninsula : it is bounded by the Bay of Biscay to the N., the Atlantic Ocean to the W., Portugal to the S., and by Asturias and Leon to the E. It contains about 1032 square leagues, with a Pop. of some 1,200,000 souls. This barrier of Europe against the Atlantic has a coastline of upwards j of 240 miles. The climate is rainy and temperate ; the surface is mountainous, and the woody heights are still the haunts of wolves and wild boars. In the verdurous meadov\s of this Switzerland of Spain, any quantity of cattle might be reared; the bacon and hams (especially from the district of Candelas) rival those of Estremadura, the swine being fed upon the chestnuts and acorns which abound in this well- wooded country. The natural products are chiefly maize, rye, and flax, apples, pears, and nuts ; the potatoes also are excellent. As the eastern mountain boundary is covered almost all the year with snow, especially the Pico de Ancares and the Pena Trevinca, while the sea-coasts and riverain valleys bask in a latitude of 42°, having scarcely any winter, the wide range of botany deserves to be better investigated. The warmer and 1 lower valleys of the Mino, and the country about Tuy, Redondela, and Orense, are perfect gardens of plenty and delight. The best wines are those of Valdeorras, Amandi, Rivero, and the Tostado of Orense ; they would rival the vintages of Portugal, were the commonest pains taken in the making ; but everything is managed in the rudest and most wasteful manner. Galicia is almost unknown to the bulk of Spaniards, as few ever go there. Spaniards form their idea of Galicians from the specimens who emi- grate, like the Swiss, into the plains, from poverty, notwill. Many of these emigrants are absent four or five years ; the majority, however, only go down for the harvest-time, returning, like the Auvergnats, with their hard-earned gains. A portion of those who settle at Madrid become reposteros , and managers in families, whilst others do the porters' work of Spain and Portugal ; whence the term gallego is synonymous with a boor, ganapan , or mozo de cordel, a “ hewer of wood and drawer of water.” Good laud is scarce in Galicia ; much of the country is only adapted for pasturage, — wide tracts or dehesas (called here gandaras , from their barrenness) are now abandoned to heaths and aromatic herbs. There is consequently a struggle for land in the valleys and favoured localities ; the over-rented, over- worked peasant toils day and night, to eat a scanty and bad bread made of maize or millet, pan de centeno , de borona , for corn is scarce. The cottages are full of dirt and damp ; the same room does for nursery, stable, kitchen, pigsty, and parlour. TheVentas in the hills and out-of-the-way localities are miserable; attend to the provend , for even those who are not particular in their cuisine are badly oif, much more so honest Christians ; the fireplaces often have no chimneys, and the damp wood, which won’t burn, and will smoke, distresses the visual organs as much as the prospect of no roast does the digestive ones. In the and 39 ; ‘ Antigiiedades, &c., del Principado de Asturias,’ Luis Alfonso de Carballo, folio, Mad., 1695 ; ‘ Asturias iiustrada,’ Jose Trellez Villademoros, 11 vols., 8vo, Mad., l^O. There is an earlier edition in one folio. ‘ Recuerdos y Bellezas de Espana (vol. Asturias y Leon), Parcerisa,’ Mad., 1854 ; ‘ Ensayo historico sobre la Arquitectura,’ Jose Caveda ; ‘ Monumentos Arquitecto- nicos,’ published at intervals. The natural history is described byCasal; and the German Professor Schultz prepared a geological and mineralogical survey and map, a resume of which was printed in the ‘Boletin,’ in June and July, 1839. ‘El Folk Lore Andaluz,’— Sevilla, 1882, monthly. Introd. Galicia. 205 plains and more favoured valleys the accommodation for travellers is not quite so bad, but Galicia is seldom visited, except by commercial travellers and muleteers, according to whose wants and demands these discomforts are regulated. It need not be said that where people cook without chimneys, and sleep without beds, vermin are plentiful. The females do all the drudgery both in the town and in the fields, con- sequently those among them who are born with any good looks retain their charms but a very short time ; those who are thus employed age before thirty, and soon become ugly as witches, looking as if they never could have been young, or have had anything about them of the feminine gender. The men, however, are fine fellows, although, when seen in their wretched huts, they seem scarcely more intelligent that their Iberian ancestors, who were little better than beasts. Nevertheless, now as then, like true highlanders, they are proud of their breed, of their illustrious pedigrees. They claim Teucer of old as their original founder, who, they say, came from the East to select this damp remote province as his favourite dwelling-place. Amongst the well-to- do villagers, one often sees faces of rare character ; features compact and well chiselled, intellectual brow and finely modelled lips and chin, whilst many of the maidens of from 15 to 20 are strikingly handsome. The language of Galicia, a patois, harsh and uncouth to the ear, is harsh to Spaniards, who laugh at their use of the u for o ; e. g. cuandu , pocu. It approaches nearer to the Portuguese than to the Spanish, and would have become the dominunt language of the Peninsula, had not Alonso el Sabio drawn up his works in Castilian, by which that dialect was fixed, as the Tuscan was by Dante. This proviuce, whose iron-bound coast is the terror of those who travel by sea, offered few facilities to wayfarers by land until the direct communication by Portugal rendered it accessible from Spain. The communications are few and tedious, and the carreteras are not as good or as numerous as in other parts of Spain : this provincial backwardness in the construction of roads has long been proverbial ; thus, while in other provinces in Spain the star-paved milky way in heaven is called el Camino de Santiago , the Galicians, who know what their roads really have been for so long, and still are, the post-roads excepted, namely, the worst on earth, call the milky way el Camino de Jerusalem .* For a fishing tour the best months are April, May, and June, In autumn the waters are generally too low and clear to afford much chance of a heavy basket or large fish. Good general Hies are duns, spinners, or March brown. The Population of Galicia and Asturias has been taken from the official census of 1877, published in 1879. The Population of the small towns and villages must always be understood to be that of the “ Goncejo ” or district. * The curious ecclesiastical antiquities of Galicia occupy no less than nine volumes of the * Esp. Sag. :’ consult also ‘ Viaje de Morales the works of Felipe de la Gandara, his ‘ Nobiliario,’ and ‘ Armas y Triunfos,’ 4to., Mad., 1662 ; the metrical ‘ Descripcion,’ by cl Licenciado Molina, 4 to., Mondonedo, 1551, and 4to., Mad. 1 6V5 ; ‘Descripcion Economica,’ Jose Lucas Labrada, El Ferrol 1804 ; ‘ Ensayo sobre la Historia de Galicia,’ Jose Verea y Aguiar ; * Anales de el Reyno de Galicia.’ F. X. M. de la Huerta y Vega, 2 vols., Santiago, 1 74 0 ; ‘Descripcion Geognostica de Galicia,’ thin 8vo , Guillermo Sclmlz, Mad. 1835. This useful work has a lithographic map of the kingdom. ‘ Historia de Galicia,’ by Don Benito Vicetto, Ferrol, ■ 8"5 ; ‘ Resena de la Historia Natural de Galicia,’ by Don Victor Lopez Seoane, Lugo, 1866; ‘ Estudios sobre la Epoca Celtica en Galicia,’ by Don Leandro de Saralegui y Medina, Ferrol, 1867 ; Rudimentos de Arqueologia Sagrada/ by Don Jose Villa- Amil y Castro, 1867. ‘Manual del Viajero en la Catedral de Santiago.’ Mad. 1847 ; ■ Historia de Galicia,’ by Don Manuel Murguia, Lugo ; ‘ Cantares Gallegos,’ by Dona Rosalia Castro de Murguia, Lugo ; Descripcion Historico-Artistico-Arque- ologica de la Catedral de Santiago,’ by Don Jose Villa- Amil y Castro, Lugo, 1868 ; * Historia y Descripcion Arqueologica de la Basilica Compostelana,’ by Don Jose Maria Zepedano, Lugo, 1870; Resena Historica del Portico de la Gloria de la Catedral de Santiago,’ Santiago, 1870. There is an excellent map by Fontan— now, however, rare. 206 'Route 45 . — Venta de Banos to Leon . Sect. HI. ROUTES. KOTJTES. PAGE. 45 Venta de Banos to Leon, by Paredes de Nava and Saha- gun. Rail 206 46 Leon to Lugo, by Astorga, Ponferrada, and Villafranca del Vierzo. Rail and Dili- gence 216 47 Leon to Oviedo, by Busdongo, Pajares, and Puente de los Fierros. Rail and Diligence 226 48 Oviedo to Gijon. Rail. Ex- cursions to Villaviciosa. Dili- gence 233 49 Oviedo to Santander, by Torre- lavega. Diligence .. .. 236 49a Oviedo to Unquera, by Cova- donga and the Picos de Europa .. 239 50 Lugo to Oviedo, by Villalba, Mondonedo, and Villanueva. Rivadeo and Aviles. Horse- back 247 51 Oviedo to Villafranca, by Cangas de Tineo and Puerto de Leitariegos. Horseback and Diligence 249 ROUTES. PAGE. 53 Lugo to La Coruna, by Be- tanzos. Rail 251 54 La Coruna to El Ferrol, by Betanzos and Ponte d’Eume. Rail and Diligence . . . . 254 55 Lugo to Santiago. Diligence 257 56 La Coruna to Santiago. Dili- gence 265 57 Santiago to Cape Finisterre. Horseback 265 58 Santiago to Vigo, by Carril and Pontevedra. Rail and Diligence 266 59 Vigo to Orense, by Tuy, and Rivadavia. Rail 270 60 Orense to Pontevedra. Rail and Diligence 272 61 Orense to Santiago. Diligence 272 62 Orense to Zamora, by Canda, La Puebla de Sanabria, and Mombuey. Diligence .. .. 273 64 Zamora to Braganza. Dili- gence and Horseback . . . . 274 65 Zamora to Benavente. Dili- gence-road 274 ROUTE 45. VENTA DE BANOS TO LEON, BY SAHAGUN. RAIL. 82J m. Two trains daily in 4J hrs. Venta de Banos Stat. (See Rte. 1.) 6 m. Palencia Stat. (See Rte. 24.) Leaving Palencia the rly. to Sant- ander branches to the rt. The Rio Carrion and the Canal of Castile are now crossed. 4 m. Grijota Stat. Pop. 1378. An industrial hamlet placed in the centre of a vast and fertile plain. 3| m. Villaumbrales Stat. Pop. 905. The Canal de Castile is again crossed, and the village of Becerril is seen to the rt. 6J m. Paredes de Nava Stat. Pop. 4428. Here Alonso Berruguete the sculptor was born, about the year 1840. He introduced into Spain the cinquecento style from Italy, where he studied. He is mentioned by Vasari as copying Michael Angelo at Florence in 1503 ; he went with that master to Rome during the following year, and became — like him — sculptor, painter, and architect. He did not return to Spain until the year 1520, when he was patronised by Charles V., and employed all over the Peninsula. He died at Toledo in 1561. Obs. in the Church of Santa Eulalia, in this his native village, some of his carvings. 207 Leon. Boute 45.- —Saliagun— Leon, 4J m. Villaumbroso Stat. Pop. 473. 4£ m. Cisneros Stat. Pop. 1713. Situated near the Rio Sequillo. 6f m. Villada Stat. Pop. 1956. 6J m. Grajal Stat. Pop. 1279. Obs. its old Moorish Fort, and its elegant church. The Rio Y alderaduey is here crossed. 3J m. Sahagun Stat. Pop. 2597. This little town still possesses vestiges of ancient walls and castle. Its neigh- bouring vega is watered by the Oea and the Valderaduey. The name Sahagun is a corruption oi the name of an ancient and once venerated local Saint Fa^undo— San Fagunt. Alonso III. founded here, 905, the celebrated Benedictine Abbey of San Benito. He, however, is now superseded in his patronage by San Juan de Sahagun , a saint who lived about the end of the 15th centy. The Gi-othic Church was begun in 1121 by Alonso VI., and almost finished in 1183, for it is known that the works in the nave continued in the 14th centy. Alonso destined this abbey for the burial-place of himself and his five wives. This monastery became the asylum to which many early kings of Spain re- tired like Charles V., and died monks ; e. g. Bermudo I. in 791, Alonso IV. in 931, Ramiro II. in 950, Sancho of Leon in 1067. The holiness and wealth was impaired in 1810, when it was plundered by the French.* What the invader began, Spanish seques- trators completed ; for, after the de- parture of the French, the Spaniards set fire to the church and almost burnt it down. It was again on fire in 1835. The fine choir seats and retablo by Hernandez, and royal tombs were destroyed. The only thing that re- mains of the 12th centy. is the noble Chapel of St. Mancio, composed of * For description of its former silver altars, treasures, relics, and library, consult Morales, « Viaje,' 34 ; for its history, that written by Joseph Perez, Madrid, 1782, and augmented by Romuald o Escalona, a learned Benedictine of the convent. three vaults supported by clusters of columns. A slab dated 1184, alluding to the consecration of one of the altars, may be seen on the wall. Look at the tower of the Church of San Tirso, 12th centy., with fine win- dows and Romanesque arches. These of San Lorenzo and Trinidad,, although rather more modern, are interesting. The convent of nuns of San Francisco has some horseshoe arches and oriental reminiscences. 6 m . from Sahagun is the Romanesque monastery of San Pedro de las Duena& 7 in which are some very remarkable columns and capitals. Leaving Sahagun, the rly. crosses the Rio Cea, which here irrigates the numerous gardens and orchards which contribute to the prosperity of the place. 4i m. Calzada Stat. Pop. 743. 7i m. El Burgo Stat. 7 m. Santas Martas Stat. Pop. 1865. 5 m. Paianquinos Stat. Here the inhabitants of Leon come on Sundays and feast-days. The huerta of Paian- quinos is watered by the Esla, and the Bernezga, and its gardens and or- chards produce a great abundanoe of vegetables and fruit. 5 m. Torneros Stat. Soon after passing this little hamlet, the . Rio Bernezga is crossed by a fine bridge, and Leon with its cathedral is ap- proached. LEON. Index. $ 1. Hotels, Cafes, Club, Post-office, Pro- menades . 20 ‘ A 2. Historical Notice 208 $ 3. Cathedral 209 to Gijon to escape the Gallic Scylla, and fell into the Spanish Charybdis. A viril in gold and silver, and another admirable example, square and gilt, which have escaped, are beautiful spe- cimens of Spanish workmanship. To the rt. of the high altar is the sacristia ; it is in the best period of the plateresque style ; the pictures are all bad copies of Raphael and Italian masters. In coming out, look at the triple Gothic sedilia in the ante - sacristia , and adjoining it the tomb of Bishop Pelagius ( ob . mense Aprilis, era 916). The trasaltar is most curious; here is the tomb of Ordono II. (H), ob. 923, built in the 15th centy. and the richest at the cathedral. The king lies at full length in his robes, while a herald stands at his head, and a monk holds at his feet a scroll in- scribed, “ Aspice.” The angels, holy subjects, and lions and castles have been painted. There is an interesting old painting on the rt. of this tomb, into which a miserably drawn and painted Christ has been introduced as a centre piece. To the 1. of the tomb there is another old painting on panel, illus- trative of the Descent from the Cross. Opposite to the tomb of Ordono Il.is the Capilla de la Consolacion (I), in which are two remarkable early Spanish pic- tures of San Cosme and San Damian. The inscription on the box held in the saint’s hand is in Arabic ; the view of the old cathedral is intro- duced as a background into the pic- ture. Immediately adjoining this chapel is the Capilla (K) in which is the tomb of the Condesa Sancha, who, because she was a benefactress to churches, was murdered by her un- godly nephew and heir ; he was con- demned to death for the murder, and was torn in pieces by being trailed on the ground bound between two horses, as is represented on the sculptured basso-relievo below the tomb. The chapel of Santiago (L), where during the restoration of the cathedral the ser- vices take place, is an elegant Gothic pile, although a Churrigueresque gilt Retablo mars the religio loci. The lofty P 2 Sect. III. 212 Route 45.— Leon : Cathedral — Churches . windows are painted with apostles, saints, virgins, kings, and bishops ; the reds and greens are splendid : indeed these are among the finest specimens of the art, and, as usual, are exe- cuted by Flemish artists. Observe over the canons’ stalls a charming picture, and on the altar on each side of the centre crucifix two silver caskets containing relics, wor& of the 15th centy., splendid specimens of their kind. Tne admirable masonry in this chapel seems only to have been finished yesterday. This chapel has an in- dependent entrance from the choir. Passing into the interior of the ch. again, enter (1.) the Capilla de Nuestra Senora del Dado (M) (our Lady of the Die), where is the miracu- lous image of the Virgin and Child, so called because when a gambler, who had been unlucky, threw his dice at it, and hit the infant’s nose, it immedi- ately bled. Obs. the rude painting- illustrating this event, at the l.-hand lower corner of the retablo. In the chapel of Sta. Teresa (N) there is a good Spanish painting on panel, which represents the burial of San Froylan. Another good Spanish picture will be found to the 1. of the cloister of St. Helen. A fine Flemish picture of the 15th centy., on panel, representing the Desceut from the Cross, may be seen over the principal entrance. Several interesting pictures are scattered about in the different chapels. The founder of the cathedral, Don Manrique, Bishop of Leon, is said to lie buried within this chapel. Behind the confessional of the Peni- tenciario there is a curious tomb, with a sculptured procession of monks, which, like one opposite to the right of the transept over the church, is worth looking at. Now pass through the Capilla de San Andres into the cloister, through the fine doorway, which is richly and delicately carved with small subjects enclosed in quatrefoils. The wooden doors, carved probably by Berruguete, are splendid. This cloister was pro- bably built early in the 1 4th centy. It is a poor composition, incorrectly restored. The existence of the former window tracery is altogether ignored in the new work. The bays were painted with a remarkably fine series of al-fresco illustrations of events in the life of the Saviour : their drawing is admirable, and the colours, when visible, pure and good, and undoubted- ly among the best specimens of early Spanish painting in Spain ; these are now, however, sadly ruined by damp and neglect combined. The cloister was partly modernised in the 16th centy., when the Gothic and plateresque were brought into singular juxtaposition. Obs. the roof with rich Berruguete shells and stalac- tites painted in white and gold, and the interior of the niches of the old sepulchres, especially that of Santa Veronica, the Gothic temple in the corner, and the interesting tombs, arched into the walls, of canons of the cathedral. Notice the Roman and Gothic inscriptions : many of the sculp- tured capitals are very line. Here is the Virgen del Foro, to which the cor- poration, on the 15th of August in every year, makes an offering of 250 reals, called la oferta de la Regia. The Sala Capitular is entered from the N. side of the cloister. A good German painting on panel hangs on the wall. In a chamber in the cloister are deposited the archives, which contain some interesting MSS. of the 10th, 11th, and 12th centys. Leaving the cathedral, visit § 4. San Isidoro— San Marcos. The Church of San Isidoro el Real, on the N. side of its plaza, which opens by the Postigo through the W. wall of the city, should be visited on week days at 10 in the morning. It is entitled Royal, from its founders, Ferdinand and Sancha. In their time the body of San Isidoro was brought to Leon.* When it reached Leon, Alonso, Ferdinand’s son, began * The whole particulars and exaggerated mi- raculous accounts, are detailed in the ‘ Esp. Sag.,’ ix. 234, 400. Leon. 213 Boute 45 . — Church of San Isidoro. for this new tutelar, in 1063, the present pile, employing* for architect Redrus de Deo, who, besides being a good mason, his epitaph tells us was a saint, “ Vir miro abstinentise et multis florebat miraculis ,” and worked mir- acles ; his tomb still remains, a large dark stone cotfin, near the square pita or font. An inscription to the rt. of the transept, between the images of the Virgin and St. Gabriel, states that this ch. was consecrated by 11 bishops the 6th of March, 1149. Alonso VII., his sons and sister D a . Sancha, were present. San Isidoro (declared by the 8th Council of Toledo to be the u Egregious Doctor of Spain * J ), although a man of letters while alive,* became a man of arms when dead ; he was promoted to be the protecting tutelar Santiago of Leon, and in that capacity fought at the battle of Bavza, armed with a sword and cross.f His convent, the Real Casa, is built in solid masonry on the wall, and by going out of the Postigo del Rastro portions of the original edifice may yet be seen ; of these, obs. the two en- trances, the circular chapel, and the ancient square tower, with round Saxon arches built into the walls. Over the * San Isidoro must not be confounded with San Isidro, the patron of Madrid, and who pointed out the path to the Christians at the victory of las Navas de Tolosa. He is an author with whom none can dispense who wish to understand the condition of Spain and the state of knowledge under the Goths, a period which many persons have been pleased to term the dark age. He was archbishop of Seville from a.d. 600 to 636, and the Pliny, the Bede, the encyclopedist of his age. His ‘ Origines,’ in twenty books, were long the storehouse of infor- mation. Dante places him in the 4th heaven, “ Pardente spiro d Tsidoro”(Par. x . 131). « Isidre that was so wyse,” says our Adam Davie, writ- ing in the year 1312. The edition of Du Breul, 1 vol., folio, Cologne, 1617, is more convenient than that (certainly more splendid one) which was edited at Rome by Arevalo, in 7 vols. quarto, 1797. t Those who wish to know more about San Isidoro should consult his * Vida,’ written by Jose Manzano, Salamanca, 1732, and, for his countless miracles, ‘ Los Milagros de San Isi- doro, composed in Latin by the Bishop of Tuy, and translated by Juan Robles, Salamanca, 1525. This is the sort of knowledge which that eminent university particularly disseminated. S. entrance is San Isidoro, arrayed in pontificalibus , and mounted as he rode down the Moors at Baeza, sculpture of the 16th centy. The Doric cornice is of later date; obs. beneath some bassi- rilievi and the two rams’ heads, the statue of San Isidoro, and the Sacrifice of Abraham, a work of the 12th centj\ The Gothic ch. has three naves; the pier-shafts are square, with half- columns projecting from each front ; the fine Romanesque capitals are formed of groups of children and animals, richly sculptured, and are most interesting. The retablos, choir- seats, and glass in this royal church were destroyed in 1811 by lightning. Shortly afterwards it was bemired and desecrated by Soult’s troops; when they departed, it was cleansed of their slime, white-washed, and the pillars and capitals hideously picked out in white and buff. The high altar shares with Lugo the rare privilege of having the Host, the Incarnate Deity, always visible, or manifestado: the effect at night, when all is lighted up, with figures of angels kneeling at the side, is very striking. This Capilla Mayor, of later date, was erected in 1513 by Juan de Badajoz, replacing the former romanesque presbytery, formed of three rounded apses. Ask to see the two fine reliquaries which are locked up behind the high altar ; one is of ivory, and the other is of enamel, date, 12th centy. In the chapel de los Quinones, to the 1. of the presbytery, are several shrines and artistic objects: among them the splendid agate chalice, mounted in gold, and set with uncut precious stones, among which there are several intagli. The following inscription is on the foot, “Vrraca Fredinad in nomine Dni.” This chalice was a gift of D a . Urraca, 12th centy. ; * a gold chalice of the 15th centy. ; a fine silver processional cross, 1 yard high. The interesting cross of ivory given by Da. Sancha, was removed in 1868 to the Museo Arqueologico at Madrid. In the sacristy there is a fine enamel, a good picture on panel, of the * For full details concerning this chalice, consult Villanueva, ‘Viage,’ “Monumentos Arquitectonicos de Espafia plates. 214 Route 45 . — Leon : San Isidoro — San Marcos . Sect. III. school of Memling, ancl a triptych, representing the Coronation of the Virgin. The precious silver reja, and nearly all the plate of San Isidoro’s tomb, were stolen by Soult’s troops, who also burnt many of the books, of which Morales has preserved a record : fortu- nately Risco printed many of the earliest deeds, which thus may be termed so many brands rescued from this modern A1 -Mansur’s fire. The tomb of the tutelar was originally of pure gold; this was carried off by Alonso* of Aragon, second husband of Queen Urraca : the fragments and the sepulchre deserve special notice. The Camarin was gutted by the invaders, who melted the reliquary, made in 1095, and the enamelled crucifix, the offering of the Infanta Sancha, daugh- ter of Urraca by Don Ramon, her first husband. This convent became the Escorial or burial-place of the early kings of Leon and Castile. The Panteon is a small low chapel dedicated to Santa Catalina, whose three-quarter bust, in red and blue tinsel, disfigures the altar. On this altar there is a good Flemish painted triptych, of the beginning of the 16th centy. The centre panel represents the Cruci- fixion of Our Lord. This home of so many kings, queens, and royal person- ages, was torn to pieces by Soult’s soldiery, f The roof, being out of the reach of pollution, remains in the original state. It is specially interest- * He was the celebrated soldier-king, el ba* tallador , a hero, like some modern marshals, of a hundred razzias, and a noted pillager of churches and convents ; after the death of Count Ramon, Urraca became Reina Proprietaria, or Queen of Spain in her own right ; as Alonso disputed some claims, a compromise was effected by their marriage, which ended in a separation. Urraca, however ill-used by Hymen, continued devoted to Venus, and died in childbirth of a bastard in .1126: as there are so many Alonsos and Urracas, these facts may be useful. The best book on the queens and royal concubines of Spain is ‘ Las Memorias de las Reynas Catolicas.’ by Florez, 2 vols., Mad., 1761. It was rendered into English by Miss Pardoe. f The curious in necrology will find a cata- logue of the saints, kings, queens, and the rest of the royal family, in Maduz, x. 1 82. The epi- taphs are all printed by Risco (ii. 148). ing on account of the remarkable paintings with which the groining is covered. They were painted circa 1180-1240, and are rich in decoration and in the painting of figures and subjects. They represent passages from the Life of Our Lord and the Apostles ; the signs of the zodiac and months of the year. Several of the months and figures are inscribed, and are undoubtedly the most important early frescoes which are to be met with in Spain. The Panteon is now railed off from the cloisters by substantial iron railings erected in 1868 ; the remains of the royal bodies, which have been knocking about since their desecration by the French, having been decently arranged, and inscrip- tions with their names put upon them. In a chapel to the north in the cloister of San Isidoro some interesting frescoes have appeared which had been con- cealed under whitewash. The chapel itself is of the 12th century. On one side two figures dressed as bishops are visible; a little further on, a church upon which an angel places a cross. On the other side are the remains of a fresco representing the Last Judg- ment. To the W. of the entrance the traveller ascends a staircase to the once splendid library, a ’noble lofty room, now much out of repair; the books were once among the most curious in Spain. There were about 900 MSS. of the 7th and 8th centuries, of which the majority were burnt by Soult, who, having routed Romana, entered and sacked Leon, Dec. 21, 1808. Ask to see the Bibles and breviaries. Obs. the fine illuminated Bible : at the end is the following in- scription ; “ Conscribtus est hie codex a notario sanctioni prbro xiii, Kids 11s era DCCCCLXVI^Y , Obs. the re- mains of mural paintings of the Flo- rentine School in the room called Cuarto de Da. Sancha, near the library. Next visit the Convent of San Marcos de Leon, an admirable specimen of plateresque work, once so richly endowed, and whose abbot was mitred. It is situated outside the town, close to the bridge Leon. Route 45. — San Marcos — Old Houses. 215 over the Bernesga, and near the rail- way station. This convent was founded in 1168 for the knights of Santiago, and here Suero Rodriguez professed ; it was rebuilt in 1514-49 by Juan de Badajoz, and is certainly his master- piece. The edifice, one of the finest in Spain, left incomplete, and now empty and never likely to be finished, . stretches to the 1., a noble Berruguete pile, of most beautiful stone ; the facade is magnificent: observe the medallions and plateresque work ; the work of Oroyes and Guillermo Doncel. The friezes and festooning are similar to Raphael's Loggie. Obs. the medal- lions under the tower frieze, with projecting busts, historical and mytho- logical. Over the door is an ancient figure of Santiago on horseback, and above it a clumsy modern construction by Martin de Suinava, 1715-19, whose Fame blowing a Trumpet adds very little to his. In one of the rooms there is a splendid carved cedar roof 60 ft. by 24. Obs., on entering the church, composed of one nave, with arcades in the transept, a circular arch, and a door fringed with rich Gothic niche-work ; the upper part is unfinished ; the royal arms placed between two heralds are of the time of Charles Y. The silleria del coro , originally a fine work, by Guillermo Doncel, carved in 1537-42, was re- paired in 1723, an epoch fatal to the fine arts of Leon. The sacristy has a lofty groined roof, and three elegant windows, divided by a central pillaret. In the cloister the cell is pointed out where Quevedo was con- fined from 1639 to 1648, for writing against Olivares. This building was used by the Jesuits as a Seminary until the revolution of 1868, when they were expelled from Spain. It is occupied now by Escolapios, and is used as a Museo Provincial; in order to see it apply to the custode , who lives in a house to the right of the building. This collection contains fragments of sculptures from different convents, and a great number of Roman inscriptions. Obs. especially over the fireplace a remarkable bas-relief in plaster of Moorish tracery, technically interest- ing as showing the manner em- ployed by Moorish artists. The minor churches are hardly worth a visit, except Santa- Maria del Mercado, which is composed of three lofty naves, with windows supported on Romanesque pillars. The capitals are interesting. In the sacristy there are two processional crosses, one of silver of the 16th century and the other rock crystal of the 17 th. § 5. Old Houses. Returning to the town by the Plaza del Rastro, and the Plazuela de Santo Domingo, we visit the Casa Solar of Alonso Perez de Guzman, el Bueno , situated at the N.E. corner of the Plaza San Marcelo. This palace of the “ good soldier,” who was born here Jan. 24, 1256, was once a noble build- ing, as its patio and the profusion of iron railings and balconies still show. It has been now bought by the Dipu- tacion Provincial. Near it is the house of Villasinda , which is also in the same plateresque style. The house 42, Callc de la Rua, has a fine porch and arteso- nado, painted ceiling, and an interest- ing kitchen ornamented with bas- reliefs. Obs. also on this plaza, part of the old wall, the fountain, and the Doric and Ionic Casa de Ayunta- miento, situated on the W. side ; it was built in 1585 by Juan de Ribera : close to it remark the parish church and the Santo Hospital. Near the Plaza de San Marcelo is the church of the same name. It con- tains on the high altar four silver caskets, and in the sacristy some splendid embroidered vestments of the 16th century. Close to the old southern wall is the Casa de los Condes ; it occupies the whole W. side of the Plazuela del Conde. This palace of the Lunas was sacked by the French. Obs. the tower, and at the entrance a circular arch and a singular window, with four antique columns; the fine patio was never finished, and probably never will be; the natives say that Queen Urraca lived in this palace. At the Cuartel there are several rooms with artesonado ceilings. 216 Sect. Ill Route 46 . — Leon to Astorgct and Lugo . and remains of paintings representing castles and lions. The Plaza Mayor is a handsome regular square, with the consistorio on the W. side ; this spacious market-place should be visited early in the morning by lovers of picturesque costume and natural history. Leon has several gates, of which the nor- thern, la del Castillo, rebuilt in 1759, with a painted statue of Pelayus, serves as a prison. Some second-rate pictures, and a provincial library, the sweepings of sequestered convents, are open to the public in the Santa Catalina. Dn. Casimiro Alonso, Calle Nueva, has antiquities which he is ready to show to amateurs. § 6. Excursions. To San Miguel de Escalada, 13 miles from Leon. No artist should fail to visit this beautiful church. The road is not fit for carriages, but horses and a guide can easily be procured at the hotel. The traveller must leave Leon by the Madrid road. At about m. he will arrive at the village of Villarente situated on the right bank of the river Porma. After crossing the bridge at kilometre hi a cross-road leads to San Miguel, which is situated at the base of a hill on which are the ruins of Lancia. Ask at the house of the Cura of San Miguel for permission to visit the church. This remarkable building was built by monks who had been expelled from Cordova. It was consecrated in 913 by Bishop Gennadio, reigning King Garcia and Queen Muniadona. It consists of three naves divided by perfect horseshoe arches, similar to those of the mosque at Cordova, and Cristo de la Luz of Toledo. The capi- tals are identical to those of Toledo. The windows are small and narrow, and the Moorish tracery of one of them remains. Over the horseshoe entrance to the porch is a tablet dated 1050, with the names of King Fer- dinand and D na . Sancha, and several bishops. An agimez Moorish window still remains in the tower, and under it a doorway covered with Byzantine sculptures, and inscription xiii. kis. sept. 6. obiit Maria Didacisoror nostra. In a ruined recess in the porch are several sepulchres, and a number of fragments of sculpture which belonged to different parts of the church. The excursion may be lengthened by visiting Santa Oloja de Eslonza, a fine church of the 15 th centy., the nunnery of Grade fes, a good roman- esque church, and the Convent of Sandoval. It may be done in this way in two days, sleeping at some house in one of the villages on the road. From Leon to Eslonza 10 m., from there to 8. Miguel 4 m. — to Gradefes 6 m. — to Sandoval 12 m. ; passing by Mancilla de las Mulas, with its ancient walls, to Leon 8 m. For route to Oviedo, see Rte. 47. PtOUTE 46. LEON TO ASTORGA AND LUGO [THE VIERZO]. RAIL AND DILIGENCE. 131 m. The rly., which is in construction to La Coruna, was opened as far as Pon- ferrada in Dec. 1881 (55 m.). Two trains daily in 4 hrs. ; one only of these is in correspondence with the Correo Diligencia, which starts daily for Lugo and La Coruna. See ‘ In- dicador/ Leaving Leon, observe to the 1. of the line the very English - looking hedge-rows. Soon this cultivated scene changes for a treeless plain. 6 m. Quintana Stat. Pop. 1790. 6 m. Villadangos Stat. Pop. 865. The rly. again enters a more fertile Leon. Route 46. — Veguellina — Astorga. 217 district, watered by the Orbigo, which — nearing the next stat. — is crossed by a handsome iron bridge. 9 m. Veguellina Stat., pop. 865. The country around is flat and un- interesting. In ancient days this was a much frequented route for pilgrims upon their way to and from Santiago : a bridge in the immediate neighbour- hood was chosen, as a true “ Knight’s Bridge/’ by Suero de Quinones and 9 other Caballeros andantes , at which to defy all passengers, on their w T ay to the great jubilee feast of Santiago, to a gentle Pass of Honour. For 30 days (commencing July 10th, 1431) did Ihese valiant knights challenge all passers-by, in order that Suero might oecome entitled to remove an iron link which he wore round his neck every Thursday in token of his cap- tivity to his mistress. The conditions upon which Juan II. allowed this passage of arms to take place were as follows : — 300 lances were to be broken; any lady who came without a cavalier ready to do battle for her forfeited her right-hand glove, and any knight who declined the combat forfeited his sword and right-foot spur. Suero excepted his own lady — “ cuyo yo soy.” 78 combatants appeared; 727 courses were run; 177 lances were broken; one Aragonese knight was killed, and 11 others wounded, with whose cure Suero charged himself. The arms were Italian, the mottoes French. Suero’s sword is preserved in the Armeria at Madrid, No. 1917. He proved victorious, and his link was re- moved by heralds with great solemnity. 3 j m. Astorga Stat . — Inn : No good inn. Casa de Huespedes, La Anda- luza, Casa de Pochas. Cafe '. — In the Calle Botelleria. Photographs , of Senor Rodriguez, No. 12, Plazuela San Francisco. Astorga — Asturica Augusta of the Romans, and described as a “ magnifi- cent city” by Pliny (N.H. iii. 3) — is now a decayed old place. Pop. 4749. The bishopric, founded in 747 by Don Alonso el Catolico, is suffragan to Val- ladolid ; the town bears for arms a branch of oak, indicative of strength.* Humboldt considers Astorga to be a vernacular Iberian name, and derived from Asta, “a rock, a rock-built place,” e.g. Astures , Astaba , Astigi. The Spaniards, finding in Sil. Italicus (iii. 334) that one Astyr , son of Memnon, fled to Spain, consider him the founder of Asturica. Seen from the outside, Astorga has a venerable imposing ap- pearance, with its singular walls and infinite semicircular towers, which do not rise higher than the level of the wall ; like Coria and Lugo, it gives a perfect idea of a Spanish city fortified by the Romans, of which so few spe- cimens remain, since most were dis- mantled by Witiza : these walls are in part pulled down, however. Two Roman tombs and inscriptions have been built into them, as mere handy materials, near the Puerta de Hierro. Being so near the mountains, the rivers de Pocos and Tuerto occasionally over- flow, causing frightful ravages. Astorga ranks as a grandee, for many Spanish cities and corporations have personal rank. It gives the title of Marquis to the Osorio family. The Gothic Cathedral was founded, 16th August, 1471, on the site of one more ancient. The design is in the latest Gothic, whilst much of the detail is Renaissance in character. One tower — that to the S.E. — and the S. facade, are built of a warm-coloured reddish stone, the other tower (never yet com- pleted), and the rest of the edifice, is built of a grey-coloured stone. Obs. the elaborately carved S. doorway, and a quaint weathercock at the N.W. corner, being the statue of Pedro Mato, a celebrated Maragato, carved in wood, and painted and modelled in the pecu- liar costume of his clan. Entering the cathedral, obs. the effect produced by the fine colour of the early Renais- sance windows. The two lateral aisles are lower than the central one; the E. end is finished with three parallel apses; the nave is seven bays in length, with towers projecting along the aisles * The local histories are ‘ Fundacion, Nom- bres y Armas,’ &c., Pedro de Junco, 4to., Mad., 1634, and Pamplona, 1639 ; and a poor book, * Historia de Astorga,’ 8vo., Valladolid, 1840. 218 Sect. III. Route 46.- at the SVV. and S.E. comers, and chapels opening into the aisles be- tween the buttresses. As evidence of the late character of the work, obs. the arch mouldings, which interpenetrate those of the columns, there being no capitals, the columns themselves being modelled like bundles of reeds. Obs. the gilt Reja and the finely-carved Silleria del Coro , in the style of Rodrigo Aleman. The organ is finely carved in the Renaissance style. The far- famed Retdblo is by Gaspar Becerra, who was born at Baeza in 1520, studied under Michael Angelo in Italy, and was patronised by Philip II . ; his finest works are in the Castiles and centre of Spain. This retdblo, executed in 1569, is perhaps his masterpiece. Divided into three parts, the frame- work of the under storey is supported by Berruguete pillars : the second tier has fluted columns and enriched bases ; the third has pilasters in black and gold. The carvings represent sub- jects from the life of the Saviour and Virgin; obs., especially, the Pieta, the Ascension, and Coronation of the Virgin, and the fine recumbent females and Michael Angelesque “Charity.” These grand carvings are very Floren- tine and muscular, but have been painted and loaded with varnish in a most atrocious manner. Visit next the ruins of the once fine palace of the Osorio family, which was destroyed in April, 1810, by the French, commanded by Junot : only two turrets, and the gateway ornamented by armo- rial shields, remain. A portion of the library fortunately escaped the French camp-fires, and now belongs to the Society of Advocates in Edinburgh. The house of the Moreno family, in which Moore lodged, is in the im- mediate neighbourhood. Next, walk along the wall in an easterly direc- tion to the Paseo Nuevo, laid out in 1856, and planted with rose-trees. Obs. the ancient Gothic inscriptions, and others, of the third and fourth cen- turies, which have been embedded in the wall at various points. Jn the picturesque Plaza de la Con- -Astorga. stitucion, obs. the quaint town-hall of the 17th century, through the centre cf which an archway opens and con- nects one of the principal streets with the square. Obs. the bells hung in picturesque slated turrets in the roof, and the great bell of all, which is placed immediately above the archway, upon which the hours of the municipal clock are struck by two painted figures of wood — male and female — costumed in the picturesque dress of the Mara- gato and the Maragata. The streets of Astorga have a de- serted look, the shops are miserable except those in which are sold the chocolate and mantecadas (small square cakes), for which Astorga is so re- nowned. The local jewellery is curious and interesting. The earrings are very remarkable, quite primitive in style. Ask to see one of the necklaces worn by the Maragatas, and the reliquaries which are hung from them. The top of the perfect Roman walls is a pleasant and favourite paseo, from whence the well-cultivated plain around and the snow-capped distant mountains can be seen to great advantage. Astorga is the capital of La Mara- gateria, or the country of the Mara- gatos, which is about 13 m. square. It contains 36 villages — San Roman, near Baneza, being one of the best. The unamalgamating Maragatos, like the Jews and gipsies, live exclusively among their own people, preserving their primeval costume and customs, and never marrying out of their own tribe. The women, who remain at home, do all the work in house and field, while their undomestic nomad husbands are always out and about. Almost all are ordinarios , or carriers ; their honesty and industry are pro- verbial. The whole tribe assembles twice a year at Astorga, at the feasts of Corpus and the Ascension, when they dance El Canizo , beginning at 2 o’clock in the afternoon, and ending precisely at 3. If any one not a Maragato joins, they all leave off immediately. This dance, as well as their marriage cere- monies, is very peculiar. The origin of the Maragatos is Leon. Route 4 6 .-—The Maragatos — Villafranca del Vierzo. 219 doubtful. Some derived the name from Mauri Capti, Moors taken in battle, and certainty the Moors and Moriscoes were the great carriers of Spain. Arrieros — arre Arabice, gee up — indeed, most words relating to the barb and carrier-caravan craft are Arabic, and prove whence the system and science were derived by the Spaniards. Thus purely Arabic are the names of animals, Becua , Jaca , Aeemil , Alfana , Alhamel, Almifor ; their colours and qualities, Alazan, Lozano , Zaino , Raron, Haragan , Bodado ; their helpers, instruments, burdens, and language, Zagal , Albei- tar, Alforjas , Telliz , Far do, Forrage (forage), Zalea, Atahorre , Grupa, Acial, Albarda, Almohaza , Jamuga , Ataliona , Guiar , Arre, Anda, &c. The Maragatos are celebrated for their fine beasts of burden : indeed, the mules of this province are equally renowned as are those of Galicia. The Maragatos take precedence on the road: they are the lords of the high- way, being the channels of commerce in those parts where mules and asses re- present railway luggage-trains. They know and feel their importance, and that they are the rule, and the travel- ler for mere pleasure is the exception. However picturesque the scene, it is no joke meeting a recua of laden acemilas in a narrow road, especially with a precipice on one side — cosa de Fspaha. The Maragatos seldom give way, and their mules keep doggedly on, and as the tercios or baggage pro- jects on. each side, like the paddles of a steamer, they sweep the whole path. From Astorga the rly. continues through an uninteresting country to 8 m. Vega Stat. Pop. 1348. 2 m. BraiLuelas Stat. Buffet. Pop. 200. 7J m. La Granja Stat. 5 m. Torre Stat. m. Bembibre Stat. Pop. 3096. Tliis picturesque vill. lies with its old castle upon the trout-streams Noceda and Boeza, which fertilize the surround- ing district. The road afterward passes through the village of San Ramon de Bembibre to 5 1 m. San Miguel. 6 J m. Ponferrada Stat. Pop. 6662. In- teramnium Flavium of the Romans. A very humble Inn , Casa de la Vizcaina; but J m. from the town is the large new medicinal-water establishment with 20 good bedrooms. This ancient town, so called from its bridge (Pons-ferrata), which was built in the 11th centy. for the accommodation of the pilgrims to Santiago, occupies a strong position near the confluence of the rivers Sil and Boeza. Visit its Ch. of Santa Maria de la Encina; its miraculous image of the Virgin was found iu an oak, and hence the ch. is called Nuestra Senora de la Encina. Notice an ex- cellently-carved Magdalen by Gregorio Hernandez. A splendid old Knights Templars’ castle, to which military order the town originally belonged, above the town, is worthy of a visit ; it is remarkable as giving in one building- good examples of different architec- tures, from Roman to Plater esque. The Paseo de la Cruz is a pleasant promenade, shaded by trees. The adjoining villages of Otero and la Puebla are connected with Ponferrada by bridges. At the beautiful village of Dehesas, 2 miles off, there is good fishing in the Sil. N.B. Ponferrada is a good starting- point for excursions in the Vierzo. See Villafranca. Continuing our journey in the dili- gence to Lugo, we next pass the village of 5 m. Cacabelos. Pop. 2187. Here the country is less mountainous and interesting. 4J m. Villafranca del Vierzo. Inns : Posada Pelegrina, clean and comfort- able ; Parador de San Antonio, clean, good food, capital trout. Pop. 4417. This truly Swiss-like and picturesque town is placed as in a funnel of moun- tains, with cottages, convents, vines, and balconies, and painter-like bridges hanging over the trout streams of the Burbia and Valcarce, At the entrance. 220 Boute 46 . — El Vierzo. Sect. III. tlie large square fortress palace, with round towers at the corner, which belonged to the Alva family, is now a prison. This town, formerly the halting- place of the French pilgrims hound to Santiago, was hence called Villa Francorum. Given to a brotherhood of monks from Cluny, the name of the present Colegiata retains the origin in the corrupted Nuestra Senora de Cruego, or Cluniego. The enormous Franciscan convent which overlooks the town on the rt. was founded to expiate his proportionate crimes by Don Pedro de Toledo, the Viceroy of Naples, who, aided by Paul II L, tried to introduce the Inquisition. The populace, in profane joy at this persecutor’s death, exclaimed, “ He has descended into hell for our salvation.” He bequeathed to the monks his fine library of Greek manuscripts, lost for ever when the village was sacked in 1810. This is an excellent starting-point from which to make excursions into El Vierzo (corrupted from the Ro- man JBergidum), which is one of the most interesting nooks in the whole of the Peninsula, although all but unknown to the English sportsman, angler, antiquarian, and artist. The traveller should visit this district from June to September : engage a local guide and attend to the provend. There are no inns, but the guide will procure the best quarters obtainable.* The Vierzo extends about 32 m. W. to E., by 25 m. N. to S. In the vici- nity of the lofty mountains the win- ters are long and exceedingly cold, but the summer and autumnal months are delicious. The great Asturian chain of alps slopes from Leitariegos to the S.W., parting into two off- shots ; that of El Puerto de Rabanal and Fuencebadon (Fons Sabatonis) constitute theE. barrier, and the other, running by the Puertos de Cebrero and * Consult for ecclesiological details, Southey (Letters, i. 105 ; ‘ Viaje de Morales,’ fol., Ma- drid, 1765; and ‘ Espana Sagra la,’ vols. xiv. xv. xvi., with their m-jps (of bishopric of As- torga), by Manuel Sutil, and (of Orense) by Joseph Cornide, Aguiar, forms the frontier; while to the S. the chains of the Sierras de Se- gundera, Sanabria, and Cabrera com- plete the base of the triangle : thus hemmed in by a natural circumvalla- tion, this simple valley of Rasselas must be descended into from whatever side it be approached. This valley, or rather crater, was doubtless once a vast lake, the waters of which have burst a way out through the narrow gorge of the Sil by Val de Orras. The central portion is a perfect para- dise, where Ceres and Bacchus, Flora and Pomona might dwell together : this portion is bounded E. and S. by the rio Sil and W. by the rivers Cua and Burbia. The crystal streams which rise in the snow-clad sierras descend into lochs, and feed these rivers, which teem with trout and other fish, whilst the woods and aromatic wastes abound in game (caza mayor y menor ) of all kinds. Here grow hay, turnips, and potatoes, rare productions in the tierras calientes ; while the verdurous meadows and thyme-clad hills afford pasture for flocks of sheep, to tend which is one great occupation of the simple primitive natives. This fertile and beautiful valley, shut out, as it were, from the world, attracted the notice of the re- cluse of the 7th centy., who here found nature enthroned in loneliness, whilst the hermit’s simple fare — water and herbs — was abundant. Accordingly the Vierzo became a Thebais, and ri- valled the holiest districts of Palestine in the number of its sanctuaries and saints, which, says Florez (‘ Esp. Sag.,’ xvi. 26), God alone, who can count the stars of heaven, could enumerate. The first founder, a.d. 606, was San Fruc- tuoso, the son of the count or petty sovereign of El Vierzo , — a sheikh shep- herd, whose wealth consisted in herds and sheep ; his heir preferred flocks of holy monks. Having surrendered his worldly goods, he settled in the Puerto de Rabanal, and founded the convent of Compludo, situated at the foot of Monte Foncebadon, near the source of the rio Molina. The fame of his sanc- tity, and the number of his miracles, attracted so many disciples, that Fruc- Leon. Route 46 . — Convents and Excursions. 22 i tuoso, to escape the pressure from with- out, retired from one cave to another, and once was nearly killed, having been mistaken for a wild beast by a hunter. His biography was written by Yalerio, one of his disciples. At the Moorish invasion these Christian valleys were ravaged, the monks dispersed, and their edifices destroyed ; but the religio loci was indestructible, and when the Gothic kingdom grew in strength, a second founder arose about 890 in the person of San Gennadio. The infinite number of early monasteries is re- ferred to in the 4 Esp. Sag./ xvi. Some of them have crumbled away from sheer age, others have been converted into parish churches for their respec- tive hamlets, and many were burnt by the invaders. To the military man the Yierzo is interesting as being the line by which Soult retreated in 1809, after he was so signally surprised and so soundly beaten at Oporto by the Duke. Convents and Excursions in the Vierzo . Although Yillafranca is the most central point from which to start upon a walking or riding tour, yet Ponfer- rada, Puebla de Sanabria, and Puente de Domingo Florez form also equally convenient starting-points, the above named towns being placed respectively around the circle within which these monasteries and trout-streams are en- closed. The chief monasteries are the following, viz., Santiago de Penal va and Carracedo el Real. The best trout-streams are the Tera, Eria, Tuerto, and Orbigo — tributaries of the Esla — and the Cabrera, Burbia, and Cua — tributaries of the Sil. (1) The artist should by no means omit to make an excursion when at Ponferrada to the highly interesting sites of San Fructuoso and San Gen- nadio, early monasteries. Santiago de Penalva is one of the earliest mona- steries in Spain. This excursion takes 3 days. Leave Ponferrada early with horses or mules and a local guide. After crossing the river Boeza, an hour’s riding will bring the traveller to Molina, a village placed on the river of the same name, a tributary of the Boeza, which flows from the Puerto de Rabanal. From there the moun- tains are ascended by a bridle-road used by the Maragato carriers from Ponferrada to Madrid. This leads to a steep path to the river Molina, which divides itself into two streams flowing into the valley, between which is the spur of the Puerto de Rabanal. Shortly after the village of Compludo is reached, most delightfully situated at the en- trance of a narrow plain watered by a stream and shaded by fine walnut- trees. The only thing which remains of the monastery is the Church, an un- pretending building with a handsome roof in the chancel — late Gothic. Leaving Compludo by a steep path to the ridge of the mountains on the N. side, the views from which are superb, Espinosa is reached. It was formerly the site of an ancient monastery ; the only thing which now remains is the Romanesque tower in the church. From there to San Cristobal, Pop. 1725, where rough accommodation may be found to pass the night. Start early next morn- ing over fine heath-clad mountains, from which the river Ora flows through a valley S. to N., to the village of Penalva. Outside the church is unpretending. It was built circa a.d. 931-951 by Bishop Salamon to enclose the saint’s mortal remains. This edifice is mentioned in documents of 1078-1163, and was found perfect by Florez in the 18th ceniy. The plan and description he gives are, however, inaccurate. (For further details, con- sult the 4 Gentleman’s Magazine,’ Feb. 1865.) This interesting church is an oblong building, 40 ft. long by 20 ft. wide, divided into a nave and chancel of nearly equal dimensions by a horse- shoe arch, supported on marble pillars projecting from the side walls, over which a wall is carried to the roof, pierced near the top by an opening with another horseshoe arch. The roof of the nave is a round vault, the chancel rises to a square lantern, the wooden roof of which is flat, and shows traces of colour. The windows through- out the building are small square holes; the main entrance to the south of the 222 Route 46. — Vierzo : Excursions . Sect. III. nave is formed by two horseshoe arches, supported by marble pillars; one stands in the middle : the whole is supported inside by a larger arch of the same shape. At E. and W. there is a semicircular apse with a dome. All the pillars inside are of marble with ornamented capitals. The eastern apse contains the high altar — that to the W. plain stone slabs, the tombs of San Gennadio and San Urban. One of the jambs of the N. door has an inscription to an Abbot Esteban, a.d. 1132. Another inscription near the main entrance runs thus : “in era cxliii. POST MILLESIMAM ET VII 1DUS MARTIAS CONSECRATA EST MIC ECCLESIA IN HONOREM SANCTI JACOBI APOSTOLI ET PLURiMORUM. a.d. 1105. ,, The date given renders it evident that the church must have been reconsecrated at that date. Santiago de Penalva is one of the rare specimens of a Christian church built originally in pure Moorish style. It is coeval with the sanctuary of the Mosque at Cordova, and not of it. Half an hour’s walk from the church is the cave Cueva del Silencio, where San Gennadio retired during Lent ; on the 25th of May it is much resorted to by peasants from all parts of the Yierzo. From Penalva continue 4 miles north through forests amidst splendid scenery to San Pedro de Montes, the second re- treat of San Fructuoso. This village is beautifully situated by a gorge which descends the valley, from beneath the heights of the Sierra de Aguiana. The monastery is in ruins. The church Romanesque. Here San Gennadio died, and bequeathed to the convent his curious library. Morales saw some of the books (‘ Viaje,’ 173), but they had then been much injured. Above San Pedro, on the mountain, is a chapel consecrated to the Virgin, to which many resort on the 15th of August. From Montes, descending to the Ora by a lovely valley through vineyards, Ponferrada is reached — a ride of about 9 miles. (2) An excursion may also be made on the rt. bank of the Sil to the Royal Cistercian monastery of Carracedo, on the 1. bank of the Cua. Founded in 990 by Bermudo II. for the place of his sepulture, it was restored in 1138 by Sancha, daughter of Queen Urraca. Although sadly out of repair, it pre- serves still remains of great interest, such as the remains of the original doorway, upon which is represented the figure of Christ and emblems of the Evangelists, and on each side two interesting statues of Abad Florencio and the Emperor Alfonso VII. The Sala capitular is interesting, and part of the convent, which is said to have been the royal palace. The whole building is Romanesque architecture of the 12th centy. The archives were burnt during the French invasion, and the library was numerous before the monks, as Morales tells us (‘Viaje,’ 170), had given them away for old parchment. (3) Take a local guide and make your way to Puebla de Sanabria. Pop, 1240, a two days’ journey (about 50 m.) across the mountains by San Cristobal, Pop. 1433, above which are magnificent views of the Vierzo and Asturian chain, extending from the Galician mountains to the Picos de Europa. Thence to Truela, a poor mountain hamlet with a miserable taverna, where, however, bacon, eggs, and wine may be obtained. From Truela a rough and steep path across the sierra descends to Donei, 8 m. from Sanabria. From Puebla de Sanabria ascend the Tera to the Lago de Castanada, distant about 8| m., the reservoir of that sweet river, which, rising in the mountains behind, near the Portillo, after flowing about 7 m. into its charming cueva, falls into the lake, hemmed in by a horseshoe of hills ; these are the spurs of the slaty and often snow-clad Segundera, whose reflected outlines bathe themselves in the clear water. This crystal loch, like the filled crater of a volcano, is about 4 m. round, and of unknown depth. The trout are noble in size, inexhaustible in number, and when in season pink as chars. A boat and an attendant may be hired at the prettily placed village (Pop. 300). A castle, built by way of fishing-box for the old Counts of Benavente, on an island, Leon. Route 46. — Excursions — Ruitetan. 223 has been repaired by the present Duke of Osuna. The Bernardino monastery, founded in 952, and accidentally burnt, was well placed with a warm S.E. aspect on the mountain slopes. From the Puebla de Sanabria to Astorga is 44 m. ; attend to the pro- vend : the scenery is wild and grand, and the rivers beautiful. Eeturn to Remesal, 3 m., and thence by Carbajal de la Encomienda, m., to Muelas, in a plain near which are some iron-mines and wild shooting; then cross a ridge to Castro Contrigo, 10 m. (Pop. 739), placed under the snowy Telado and Pena Negra, and on the picturesque and piscatorial Eria. From the Puebla de Sanabria the lover of sweet-aired highlands may cross the Sierra to Puente de Domingo Flores by Vigo, ascend the Yega de Tera to the Portillo, keep then to the 1. to the Puente de los Gallegos, and thence to Campo-Bomo, descending by San Pedro de Trones to the bridge over the Cabrera. This village, a good fishing-quarter, lies under the Campo de Braxia, near the confluence of the Cabrera and Sil; the former comes down from the ridge of the Cabrera, a district divided into alta y baja , whence the waters part, flowing E. and W. Thus the Eria descends in a contrary direction to the Cabrera. The whole of the Cabrera may be fished up, turn- ing at its bend near Bobledo up to the reservoir lake at La Bana. There are several routes E. from the Puente de Domingo, Pop. 1781 ; first either follow the rt. bank of the Cabrera to Lavilla, and then ascend the Cuesta de Llamas to Odollo, and so on to Castrillo and Corporales, descending by Truchas (the name tells its produce) to Quintanilla and El Villar ; then crossing the Eria ascend to Torneros, whence either proceed N. to Astorga or W. to La Baneza. From El Villa the angler might fish down the charm- ing Eria, keeping on the 1. bank to see the monastery of San Esteban de Nogales. Or on leaving El Puente de Domingo the Cabrera may be crossed and the ascent gained to B,obledo sobre Castro, and thence up to Piedrafita, descending to Lomba and reascending to the beautiful Portillo de la Bana, and thence to La Bana, and over the Cabrera ridge to Truchas and Castro Contrigo. (4) Other excursions are to be made from El Puente de Domingo ; first to the W. : cross the bridge over the Cabrera, and then pass the arrowy Sil to the rt. at Puente Nuevo ; go on to the Barco de Valdeorras, 6J m., where the king- dom of Galicia begins ; hence 6 J m. more to La Bua, a village of some 300 souls. The bridge over the Sil is of Roman foundation, and is termed Cigarrosa, a corruption of Sigurra, the ancient town which once stood here. Quitting now the road to Orense, make for San Miguel de Monte Furado, the “pierced hill,” which lies about 8 m. on the r. bank of the Sil. The mountain rock by which the course of the river was impeded, called by the Romans Mons Lavicus, was dedicated to Jupiter, as an inscription on it recorded. It is tunnelled through for the space of some 300 yards, a work of uncertain object, and wrought, some imagine, for the purpose of draining the upper country, while, others deem it a shaft cut by miners in search of gold.* To this day diminutive nuggets are found in the rude washings, not diggings, of amphibious pauper gold-fishers. The Sil, an ancient and common name for rivers (Hirt. B.A. 57), is derived from Silex, the flints of their beds. The Roman road crossed the Sil at Cigarrosa and continued to Laraco ; the windings and elbow turns are called los Codos de Ladoco, a corrup- tion, according to Molina, of Navico, whence Larouco. Leaving Yillafranca del Yierzo, the diligence-road traverses a broken coun- try : presently obs. the ruins of two old castles, formerly belonging to the Templars, which crown the summits of two hills. 7J m. Ruitelan. This hamlet is situ- ated in the Valle de Valcarce, and at the foot of the iUdine pass el Puerto de Piedrafita, which scales the mountain- * Consult ‘Esp. Sag.’, ‘ Anti.’ ]G; Molina, 14. xv. 63 ; M orales, 221 lioute 46 . — Santa Maria de Nogales— Lugo. Sect. III. barrier of Galicia. The Burbia to the 1. forms the perfection of a trout- stream, and a pleasant, brawling com- panion to the dusty highway. The summit-level of the pass of El Puerto (3350 ft. above the sea) is now reached, and the road descends to the village of 17J m. Santa Maria de Nogales. Pop. 4595. Here girls await the diligence with tumblers of delicious new milk and glasses of water. The ascent commences again and continues to Santa Isabel, where the slate-roofs are kept down from the oc- casional hurricanes by heavy stones. The grand limestone road now winds up the heights, with tremendous pre- cipices to the rt. and a mountain stream in the valley below; all around the grey rocks are clothed with the cistus and the heath. Soon the fine bridge of Corcul is approached, and then crossed ; it spans with its three arches a terrific ravine ; its creamy-coloured masonry is worthy of the Romans. Here during Moore’s retreat the English engineers failed from want of tools in mining the bridge, which, if done, would have prevented the further pursuit by the French. The English threw 25,000L in dollars down the precipice to the rt. before continuing their retreat. 13 m. Sobrato de Picato. The Bio Tordia and the Bio Mera are crossed. The country now becomes a little tamer and more English in its character. As we descend into the plain the beau- tiful Miho is seen to the 1., winding along through pleasant meadows and through the wooded country around Lugo. A steep hill is now ascended by a poplar-lined road to Lugo. This hill is a rendezvous for beggars, and here the traveller will be pestered by scores of lame, halt, and blind ; some make discordant noises upon a fiddle or a flute, others — hoary old vagabonds — have their tattered rags hitched together by huge scallop-shells, and profess to be pilgrims on their way to or from the shrine of St. James in Santiago. Lugo is entered by the Calle San Roque, and the diligence draws up for § hr.’s bait at the Fonda in the Plaza. 11 m. Lugo Stat. (Inns: Fonda de Co vos, Fonda de Cocina, — both fair.) Post Office . — In the Plaza de Santo Domingo, close to the hotel. Bookseller and Publisher. — Soto Freyre, Calle de San Pedro, No. 31. Here can be obtained many local works. Lugo ( Lucus Augusti of the Romans), the most central town in Galicia, is 1930 ft. above the sea-level, and has a Pop. of 18,939. Lugo is nearly a square, with the corners rounded off. The very interest- ing Roman Walls resemble those of Astorga ; they are the finest in Spain, being 30 to 40 feet high, and above 20 thick, and are defended by semicir- cular projecting buttress towers, which do not rise much above the line of cir- cumvallation ; many of the curious upper watch storeys were taken down by bungling engineers in the civil wars, on the pretence that they could not stand the firing of the wretched cannon, which luckily never were used, or they assuredly would have burst. But, if the defences are bad, the walk on these walls round the town is good, and here the ivy, a creeper rare in the torrid parts of Spain, mantles the masonry. The oldest portion, with solid Roman granite work, is best seen near the Puerta del Carmen. Lugo, once the metropolitan, is now suffragan to Santiago. The see, founded by the Apostle himself, was restored in 734 by Alonso el Catd- lico. The Cathedral was built in 1129 by Don Ramon, husband of Queen Urraca, with the two lateral aisles lower than the central. The exterior was modern- ised in 1769 by Julian Sanchez Bort ; the granite fa$ade and statues are heavy ; observe in the pediment Faith holding the Hostia. The tower to the N. has a paltry pigeon-house top and a chiming apparatus of iron, so com- mon in the Netherlands, so rare in Spain. The towers to the S. remain unfinished. The N. doorway is of the same age as the earliest part of the ch. Obs. the curious design of its iron hinges Leon. 225 Route 46. — Lugo . and the figure of the Saviour seated in the mythical Vesica Piscis in the tym- panum, and the Last Supper carved on a pendant below it. The interior has low arches on each side, with a gallery above, and below rows of confessionals, with the names of especial tutelars over each. The silleria del coro , of good walnut carv- ing, is by Francisco de Moure of Orense, 1624. The bishop’s seat bears the arms of Alonso Lopez de Gallo, who defrayed the cost. This cathedral is privileged to have the consecrated Host always exposed (manifestado), an im- memorial right shared only with San Isidoro of Leon; but here the Host is exposed day and night, whilst in San Isidoro it is withdrawn from public view at Ave Maria to be again exposed at day-dawn. The high altar is here enclosed with glass in a tawdry theatrical manner, the painted oval, with angles of white marble and gilt wings, being espe- cially vulgar. Two priests are always in attendance, night and day, at fald- stools on either side of the capilla mayor in front of the altar. In reference to this privilege, Galicia bears the Host on its shield, and Lugo “ two towers supported on lions, and the conse- crated wafer in a monstrance.” In other Spanish churches the Hostia is put away in a tabernacle, except in those great cities which have the privilege of the cuarenta horas , or ex- hibitions of the wafer in different churches for 40 hours, when the same spiritual benefits may be obtained by praying before it, as by an actual pilgrimage to St. Peter’s. This spec- tacle and privilege was first introduced at Valencia in 1697, having been established at Rome in 1592 by Clement VIII. Thus is reversed the custom of the pure primitive Church, which almost concealed the sacra- mental emblems from all except the initiated. At Lugo the incarnate Hostia is always lighted up and mani- fested in a glass viril; one made by Juan d’Arfe was given in 1663 by Bishop Castejon. The Baldaquino is supported by coloured marble pillars and gilt capi- [& 2 >ain t 1882.] tals ; behind, in a modern circular chapel overcharged with ornament, is a statue of the Virgin Maria de los ojos grandes. The ecclesiologist may visit the Church of the Capuchins and the Church of St. Domingo, both of them near the hotel. Visit the fine arcaded Plaza de la Constitucion, and also the small trian- gular Plaza del Campo in both of which the artist will observe the pic- turesque groups at the curious old fountains, and study the varied cos- tume of the peasantry, who here sell their market produce, crouched under huge umbrellas of every colour. No- tice how the water is conducted from the ill-contrived spouts into the water- jars, by means of long tin tubes which each one carries in the hand. The old walls have been rendered available as a broad public walk, which is one of the pleasantest promenades imaginable, in the early morning espe- cially, when the cool wind comes stealing down from the distant sierras. The river Mino (called by the an- cients Minius from the vermilion found near it) is the glory, not only of Lugo, but of Galicia. It rises not far from Mondonedo , and flows S. to Orense and Tuy, forming the boundary on the side of Portugal. The fishing in it and its tributaries is good, especially for sal- mon, savalo , trout, and lampreys ; the latter were sent to the epicures of old Rome. In 1791 a project was formed to render the Mino navigable, but nothing was done beyond a memoria on paper by Eustaquio Giannini. Some remains of the Roman Thermo, and of a dyke against inundations, testify their former magnificence. The pre- sent baths, which have been recently much improved, are placed on the 1. bank of the Mino, about 10 minutes’ walk outside the gate of Santiago ; the season is from June 15 to Sept. 30, when they are beneficial in cutaneous and rheumatic disorders. The pauper patients pay dos cuartos for the liberty of immersion, and they lie like pigs or porpoises in the steaming waters among the loose stones. Hard by is a mineral spring which contains nitre and anti- Q 226 Boute 47 . — Leon to Oviedo . mony.* In the town, in the Calie de Batitales, was discovered (Sept. 1842) a Roman mosaic pavement, with water emblems, a colossal head, fish, &c., a small part of which can be seen under- ground at an apothecary’s shop. Other mosaics of the same kind may be seen by applying to the porter of the Ayuntamiento.f Lugo can now be reached from Madrid by the Mad. and Caceres rail- way. See “ Indicador.” KOTJTE 47. LEON TO OVIEDO, BY BUSDONGO, PAJARES, AND PUENTE DE LOS FIERROS. Bailway and Diligence. 71 J m. Leon : Rte. 45. 3 m. Santibanez Stat. 15 J m. La Bobla Stat. Pop. 2440. The beautiful trout stream, the Ver- nesga, fills the valley with verdure. 5 m. Pola de Gordon Stat. Pop. 4057. The defile Puerto de Pajares, the portal of the tremendous mountain wall which divides Asturias from Leon, is now entered. The road is carried along a superb causeway erected at a vast expense. The road ascends through a chaos of rocks pierced here and there by the railway works of the line of Asturias. 6 m. Viilamanin Stat. Pop. 1666. 7 m. Busdongo Stat. Pop. 150. Busdongo is a mountain village about 3500 feet above the sea, not a bad stopping-place for a naturalist, who from this may reach the summit of the * Consult the ‘ Analisis,’ by Dr. Sanjurjo y Mosquero : Lugo, 1817. t See for particulars, the ‘ Apuntes,’ by T. J. Armesto, 4to., Lugo, 1843. Roman gold coins are also found. Sect. III. Pico de Arvas. Two or three clean rooms and not bad food are found in a little Inn , Fonda del Ferro Carril de Matilla, the second house on the right above the railway station. The railway between Busdongo and Puente de los Fierros is in construc- tion. Meanwhile the communication is kept up by three diligences, which leave daily on the arrival of the train. The worst of the three conveyances, La Combinada , carries the baggage in a separate conveyance and third-class passengers in the Imperial. These diligences take two hours to reach Puente de los Fierros, and three for the return journey. Pillars are placed to mark the road along the Puerto when covered over by wintry snows. 4^ m. Arvas. A miserable hamlet, which contains a very perfect Roman- esque church encased in the modern buildings of the monastery to which it is attached, where monks were established to succour passengers as at Mount St. Bernard. La Perruea, the highest point of the Puerto, 4468 ft. above the sea, is the frontier line between Asturias and Leon, and hence the road descends steeply to 2J m. Pajares. Posada. Pop. 1328. The country now traversed is of a Tyrolese character. The scenery is splendid : even the highest peaks are covered with vegetation. The valleys are most fertile and clothed with trees. The rivers and brooks are clear as crystal and full of trout. 4 m. Puente de los Fierros Stat. Fonda de Vigil, fair. 3J m. Campomanes Stat. 2 m. south is the interesting hermitage of Santa Cristina de Lena, which on no account should be passed by without a visit by the artist or archaeologist. It may likewise be conveniently visited from Oviedo in the day by rail. This ch. was built in the 9th centy., and is one of the most perfect buildings of the Asturian Monarchy. The in- ternal decoration resembles Naranco. The plan is cruciform, and most un- common, and could be adapted with advantage for a private chapel. The E. and W. ends are reached by Leon. 227 Houte 47. — Oviedo . several steps. Especially observe the curiously carved slabs which form a reredos to the lower altar, and screen to the upper, and the rude internal masonry. Obs. the arcade along the nave, ornamented with animals. The scenery reminds the English tourist of Devonshire. 20 J m. Pola de Lena Stat. Pop. 11,633. Poor Inn; indifferent Posada. 4. m. Santullano Stat. At a short distance is Ujo, where there is an inter- esting Romanesque church of the 13th century. 4 m. Mieres del Camino Stat. Toler- able Posadas. Pop. 12,626. Visit the ferruginous springs de la Salud, near which are iron, cinnabar, and coal mines, worked by Belgian companies. From this charmingly situated village the zigzag course over a limestone ridge leads, by the Puerto del Padrun, to 4 m. Olloniego Stat. Its fine bridge of five arches was constructed upon old Roman foundations by Manuel Reguera Gonzales. Obs. here the older ivy-clad bridge which stands high and dry in the meadow, the fickle stream having been untrue to its bed as at Coria ; the views all along are beautiful towards the mountains to the S. and S.W. Las Segadas Stat. Barco de Soto. Excursions may be made from here. The views are first- rate, and the country most beautiful. OVIEDO (see Plan). Index. Page § 1. Hotels, Chapel, Theatre, Casino, Pro- menades 227 $ 2. Cathedral 227 § 3. Churches — Santa Maria deNaranco, San Miguel de Lino, San Julian— Walks, Excursions 230 $ 4. University, Old Houses 232 § 1. Hotels, Chapel, Theatre, Ca- sino, Promenades. 5 m. Oviedo Stat. Inns: Fonda de Luisa, good : Fonda de Madrid, good ; Fonda Nueva — both in the Calle de Campomanes ; Fonda de Paris. Prices from 24 to 30 r. a day at both these inns. Pop. 34,944. There is an Evangelical church, a good Theatre, Casino, and pleasant promenades, the most fre- quented of which are the Paseo de San Francisco, which includes the Bombe, and Jar din Botanico. . Oviedo is the residence of the pro- vincial authorities, the seat of a university, and the see of a bishop, founded by Alonso el Casto, in 810. The cathedral, at first a metropolitan, afterwards became an Iglesia exenta (an excepted ch.), i.e. not a suffragan to any archbishop. The name Oviedo is very questionably said to have been derived from the rivers Ove and Diva, near which Pelayus defeated the Moors. Previously to 791 the Gothic princes resided ht Cangas and Pravia, until Alonso el Casto made this place his court and capital, and founded the see in 810. § 2. Cathedral. The Gothic Cathedral is an elegant cruciform structure, in the perpen- dicular style. The present edifice was built by Bishop Gutierrez de Toledo (1388) on the site of a previous ch. founded by Froyla in 781, and enlarged by Alonso el Casto in 802. The Camara Santa is all that remains of the old building. The W. fa§ade of the present ch. is striking. A noble balustraded portico of richly orna- mented arches stands between two towers, only one of which is complete. It rises about 200 ft., and is richly adorned with buttresses, crocketed pin- nacles, niches, and open parapets. The chapter, in 1575, added an open filigree pyramidical spire— rather low in proportion — instead of finishing the opposite larger and incongruous lower, which is carried up to the height of the nave. Obs. the singular arch of the northern tower. In the interior a gallery runs under the clere- story. The retdblo of the high altar, divided into five tiers, dates from 1440. It has unfortunately been restored and q 2 Leon. Route 47 . — Oviedo : Cathedral. 229 beautified at great cost by the efforts of the bishop and completely spoilt. A modern gilt wooden custorlia replaces the former one, which, with a silver balustrade, was melted by the French. The silleria del coro is ornamented with inlaid marqueterie. The reja good. There is some superb painted glass in the clerestory. All the lateral chapels are dis- figured with Churrigueresque and mo- dern abominations. In the trascoro, the elegant Gothic centre has been whitewashed, while on each side in- congruous altars of dark marble have been erected in a bastard classical style. The chapels at the trasaltar are abominable. Here was that of the Virgin, which was the Escorial or burial-place or Pantheon of the early kings. This portion of the original building was pulled down in 1712 by Bishop Thomas Reluz, who substituted the present contemptible Churrigue- resque abortion. The Cimborio is over- charged, and the lower pillars, and Corinthian pilasters, and heavy dis- proportionate cornice, are gross failures. This spot is now called La Capilla del Rey Casto (Alonso II., ob. 843), who here lies buried, with many of the earliest kings and princes, to wit, Fruela I., Alonso el Catolico, Ramiro, Ordono I., era 944, Alonso el Magno, Garcia I., Dona Geloira, wife of Ber- mudo ; Urraca, wife of Ramiro T., era 959, &c. Six niches in the walls con- tain stone coffins. The original sepul- chres, epitaphs, and inscriptions, so carefully described by Morales, have been ruthlessly swept away, and now a paltry modern tablet records their time-honoured names. The gorgeous shrine of Sta. Eulalia, the patroness of Oviedo, lies to the N. near the entrance ; her body rests in state in the Capilla mayor. The cloisters are small, but offer elegant specimens of decorated tracery ; the windows are in a good pointed Gothic.* Between the cathedral and the clois- ters stands the great object of venera- tion and most interesting piece of * Consult ‘Teatro Ecclesiustico de Oviedo,’ Gil Gonzalez Davila, 4to., Mad., 1695 ; and Patrocinio Medrano,’ % vois. fol., Oviedo, 1719, antiquity in Oviedo, the Camara Santa, or the original primitive chapel of San Miguel, which is the second oldest Christian building after the Moorish invasion. It was built by Don Alonso el Casto in 802 as a receptacle for the sacred relics, which had been transported from Toledo at the time of the Moorish invasion. It is raised from the ground to preserve the relics from damp. Beneath is a chapel dedi- cated to St. Leocadia. The Camara is approached from the S. of the cathe- dral by 22 steps to an ante-room with a finely-groined roof which springs from 6 richly foliated capitals ; 12 statues of the Apostles, richly sculptured, are attached to the pillars. The pavement of this part is richly tessellated, and resembles those of Italy of the 9 th centy., and especially the Norman- Byzantine works in Calabria and Sicily. This holy of holies was once lighted up by magnificent silver lamps, which were carried off by the invaders. The devout kneel before a railing while the holy relics are exhibited at 8.30 a.m. and 3.30 p.m. Obs. the waggon-vaulted roof of the chapel 26 ft. "by 16. It is borne by arches supported by quaint statues of the 12th centy. The inner sanctum sanctorum , slightly raised, is probably the identical building of the chaste king. The Area, or chest, in which the relics are kept, is made of oak, covered with thin silver plating, with bassi- rilievi of sacred subjects, and an inscrip- tion round the border, which refers to the contents and appears to be of Byzan- tine manufacture. For its history con- sult Morales. The relics themselves, of which catalogues are presented to those who visit, are even more remark- able than the ordinary collections of such objects ; but the settings and or- naments of many of them are superb specimens of silversmith’s work. Obs. two ivory diptychs. In one of these there is a figure of Christ on the Cross, most rudely executed. The feet are separate and not nailed to one another. The figure exactly resembles the Cristo de las Batallas of the Cid at Sala- manca — 11th oenty. In a small cgtse 230 Sect. III. Route 47. — Oviedo : Churches. is kept tlie santo sudario , or shroud of our Saviour, which (three times a year, and on Good Friday when the bishop preaches) is displayed from a balcony that was barbarously cut out of the staircase of the Camara Santa in 1732. Look at the portable altar, shaped like a book, encased with silver, and decorated inside with ivory carv- ings, and certainly a work of the 10th centy. Next notice the cross of Pe- layus, made of Asturian oak (La Cruz de la Victoria), which he bore as a ban- ner at the battle of Govadonga. It is encased in a magnificent filigree-work made at Gauzon, a village 14 m. from Oviedo. The coeval inscription records that it was given by* King Adefonsus et Schemena (Ximena), era 946, a.d. 908. The older cross, a.d. 808, is locally known as La Cruz de los Angeles. It is studded with antique cameos and shaped like a Maltese cross, enriched with gilt filigree-work, of a Byzantine character, and set with uncut precious stones. The four arms are thus inscribed : “ Susceptum placide maneat hoc in honore Dei offert Adefonsus, humilis servus Christi. Roc signo tuetur pius, hoc signo vincitur inimicus ; quisquis auferre presump- serit mihi fulmine divino intereat ipse : nisi libens voluntas dederit mea. Hoc opus perfectum est in era dcccxlvi. a.d. 808.” This cross, therefore, and that at Santiago, are indubitably more than a thousand years old. A mummy was discovered in the cathedral in July 1882, wrapped in silk vestments woven with Arabic inscrip- tions. The coins found with it were of the fifteenth century. The view from the tower of the cathedral is very fine. Visit the old library of the cathe- dral, of which many MSS. came from Toledo. Enquire for a curious illu- minated MS. of the 12th centy., with drawings of the officers of the royal palace : El Libro Gdtico, or de Testa- mentos. The rich illuminations repre- sent the costumes of the period, and are interesting. The character of the illuminations corresponds with the frescoes on the roof of the Panteon at Leon. Many other interesting MSS. may also be looked at, among them the will of Alonso el Casto. Ask also to see the fine Roman con- sular ivory diptych. The busts are well carved in low relief outside the leaves. The register books of deeds, &c., which are kept in most Spanish cathedrals and convents, are here called Tumbos ; in Aragon they are called Libros Cabreos , but the usual name is Libros de Becerro , from the calf binding. ( Becerro is the diminu- tive of the Arabic Baccara , an ox; Vaca ; Latin, Vacca .) § 3. Churches — Walks and Ex- cursions near Oviedo. Near the cathedral is an ancient church dedicated to San Tirso, but sadly modernised. Look at the in- teresting painting on panel, the only good picture in Oviedo. What this church once was may be inferred from the description of the Bishop Seba- stiano ; “ Oujus operis pulchritudinem plus prsesens potest mirari quam erudi- tus scriba laudare.” A double arch, with columns in the exterior wall, is all that now remains of the former church. Of this early period is San Pelayo close by, a ch. which was ori- ginally founded by Alonso el Casto to the honour of St. John the Baptist, but the dedication was changed when the remains of San Pelayo were placed here by Ferdinand I., in 1023 or 1053. This St. Pelayus (who must not be confounded with the restorer of the Gothic monarchy), this Shant Pelay of the Moorish annalists, was the nephew of a Bishop of Tuy, who, taken prisoner by the Moors at the battle of Junquera, was left at Cordova as a hostage for the prelate, where he was put to death for resisting the un- natural kalif in 925.* In the Ch. of San Juan, obs. the billet moulding round the front ; near it is the huge convent of San Vicente, founded in 1281 for Benedictines by the abbot Fromestano, as a double monastery for * For the lad’s legend see ‘ Antiq. de Tuy,’ Sandoval, p. 62 ; and for hints how to paint him correctly, consult ‘l’ictor Christianas,’ Ayala, vi. 18 . Leon. Route 47. — Churches. 231 monks and nuns. Ask to see the cell of Padre Feijoo, one of the brother- hood, whose critical essays, about a century ago, dispelled some of the gross popular errors of Spain.* See also a fine Romanesque entrance to the Church of Sta. Clara. Oviedo, as might be expected, con- tains some of the most ancient Chris- tian churches in the Peninsula. The finest specimens exist on the lofty hill of red sandstone called La Cuesta de Naranco, which rises on the oppo- site side of a valley to the N. of Oviedo, about 2 m. The miserable road to Santa Maria de Naranco passes under the railway a little E. of the station. No traveller should omit to see this church. The curate lives in a portion of the building, contrived by the irregular level of the hill side. From this point the view of Oviedo, backed by its mountains, is magnificent. The latest opinions of Spanish critics on this interesting church is that it was origi- nally built by King Ramiro, a.d. 850, for a palace, and converted into a church soon after (v. Monumentos Arquitecto - nicos ). The church built in connection with it is S. Miguel de Lino. Santa Maria de Naranco has a semicircular stone vault, used as a crypt, similar to the one beneath the Camara Santa. To the E. and W. of the crypt there is a rude chamber. The entrance to the crypt is from the S. side. The church is entered by a porch, which stands in the middle of the N. wall. The in- terior is a simple parallelogram with a chamber at either end, that at the E. being on the level of the nave, that to the W. is raised three steps above it. They are separated by round arches supported by elegant pillars. The ch. is 15 ft. wide and 36 ft. long, exclusive of the chambers. In that to the E. stands the high altar. Along the N. and S. walls runs an arcade with round arches supported by pil- lars with carved capitals. The roof is a round stone vault, with bands of groining springing from plain corbels * His ‘ Teatro Critico Universal,’ his * Cartas Eruditas y Curiosas,’ with replies, rejoinders, &c., “more Hispano,” fill 19 vols. 4to.,and have gone through many editions. above shields of ornament.* On the capital of one column is a rude sculp- ture, which is supposed by the vulgar to refer to the female tribute paid to the Moors by Mauregato, ob. 788. Do not fail to go also to San Miguel de Lino, which stands a little higher up the hill, and is of a cruciform plan, with two staircases leading up to a W. gallery for the choir. The arches are round ; those over the door- ways are of one piece of stone, elabo- rately carved in low relief. Some of the windows have a singular resem- blance to Moorish traceries. Obs. the curious carvings in the doorway. This church is deserted; the key may be obtained from the cura of Sta. Maria. If the traveller should be at Oviedo on the 25th of July (St. James), he should by no means omit to go to mass to Sta. Maria de Naranco and see the pro cession go along to San Miguel. The peasants with their of- ferings following, of cows and heifers, their horns gaily decorated with ribbons ; the beautiful scenery, the architecture, and picturesque groups, make a picture which can with diffi- culty be equalled. The ch., according to Morales (‘ Viage,’ 103), was built by Ramiro I. (circa 850) : the architects name was Tioda, or Fioda. According to Mariana (vii. 13), the cost was paid for out of the spoil taken at Clavijo, where Santiago fought in person ; this side of the hill was then covered with houses, which disappeared when Alonso el Magno (circa 935) fortified Oviedo. Morales, in 1572, describes the ruined traces of the palace of Ramiro; several fragments are still encased in the more modern buildings. The ecclesiologist will not fail to make a pilgrimage to a similar relic, about a mile outside the town on the road to Gijon, built by Tioda, and dedicated to San Julian (Santullano). Externally it is a cruciform church, but the parts of the building which appear like transepts outside are chambers walled off from the rest of * For further details, read ‘Gentleman’s Magazine,’ -July, LS65; ‘ llecuerdos y Bellezas de Espana, Parcersia.’ 232 Route 47 . — Oviedo : Excursions . Sect. III. the church. It has a nave and 3 aisles. The arches are round, and the Lom- bard capitals are most interesting. Obs. the short pillars on each side of the altar, and singular capitals: ex- amine the exterior, and the window to the E. The Nuestra Senora de la Vega, placed in the sweet valley close to the town, was founded by Dona Gontrodo Perez, ob. 1186, mother of Queen Urraca. She was buried here, and Florez (‘Rey Cat./ i. 300) has preserved her curious Latin epitaph. Obs. the 2 tombs. It has been con- verted into a manufactory of small arms. One of the pleasantest walks near Oviedo leads to the former imposing convent of San Francisco, founded, it is said, by St. Francis himself, and now converted into a hospital for some 200 patients. In the convent cloister ad- mirers of “el Rey casto” may read the inscription on the blooming portrait of San Elceario and Santa Delfina, “que vivieron siendo casados, en perpetua castidad sin apartar lecho.” In the hospital church look at the chapel of the Marqueses de Valdecarzana, and read the items of the offering of corn and beef payable for saying a soul mass on the dia de difuntos. Sunday is a grand day for the dressing and dancing of the peasants who flock into the town. Obs., on the market plaza , the fair, fresh complexions of these brown-haired, blue-eyed daughters of the Goths, whose long locks are plaited in trenzas. They carry their water- vessels and baskets with the upright gait of a Hebe. The men wear a peculiar black cap or montera, and are fond of a most artistic yellow cloth. Walk towards the Cristo de las Cadenas, 1 J m. from Oviedo ; the pano- rama is splendid in all directions. The Pena de La Magdalena lies to the south, to the left of Aller a mass of isolated rocks, before which is the mountain range of Morcin, and in the foreground, and on the sides, hills covered with trees. To the W. Pena- flor. The sunsets are superb. Towards the E. there is an extensive and varied view. The mountain range of Morcin to the south, and behind the peaks of the Cordillera Cantabrica, Pajares, &c. The sketcher may also walk out on the Santander road, and look back on the imposing jumble which is formed of San Vicente, San Pelayo, the old tower and cathedral. The Santo Do-, mingo, on the Leon road, with its groves, has also become a hospital. The Asturian mountains, as seen from the Campo Santo, are very grand. Walk also to the Barco de Soto Sta- tion, Las Segadas, 4| m. from Oviedo, and look at the charming junction of the Nalon and Aller. Take tackle. Walk out to Las Caldas, Oalidas, the warm baths, 3J m., charmingly situated en el rio de abajo. (The season from June 1 to Sept. 30.) The buildings were erected in 1731-80, by Manuel Regueras Gonzalez. Dili- gence twice a day from Oviedo. The excursion ought to be made on foot by the Cristo de las Cadenas, and return in the diligence. The views are splendid at Caldas. Close by are the ruins of the castle of Priorio ; the church is worth a visit. In the neighbourhood of Oviedo are some of the richest and most extensive coal-fields of the Peninsula; make, there- fore, a detour into the Concejos of Siero, 8 m. Three miles from Siero, between Oviedo and Norena, is the church of Arguelles, where a votive inscription has been found of the 6th centy., in- teresting as being the primitive record of the earliest Christian Church in Spain. § 5. University — Old Houses — Museum. The University is a plain square edfice, and has a museum attached of provincial fauna and mineralogy. N.B. — Notice the specimen of the Asturian bear. There are also some pictures, and a library of 12,000 vols. The domestic architecture of Oviedo, with projecting roof, is suited to the damp climate. Among the deserted mansions of the nobility, visit that of the Duque del Parque, now a fdbrica de armas ; that of the Marquis of Campo Leon. 233 Route 48 . — Oviedo to Gijon. Sagrado, a fine square building, in which Gen. Bonnet lived, whose atro- cities are recorded by Toreno (xi.). Visit also the Casa Solar of this his- torian, whose family is one of the most ancient of the Asturias. The Calle de la Plateria has some Prout- like bits. On the wall outside Oviedo, and near the gate Noeeda, is encased a black marble monument to J ovellanos, placed opposite the road to Gijon, the native town of that enlightened patriot, of whom the Asturias may well be vain. Diligences of Asturias — From Oviedo by Aviles and Pravia to Cudillero. From Oviedo to Aviles ; from Aviles to Gijon, alternately by Luanco and Candas, or by a shorter and more direct way by Carreno. From Gijon to Villa viciosa and Colunga. The road will be finished in the autumn of 1882, and diligences will continue to Rivadesella. From Yillaviciosa to Infiesto. From Oviedo to Yillaviciosa and Colunga, by the Pola de Siero and Puerto de Arbazal. From Oviedo to Pola de Laviana as far as the railroad of Langreo to Sama. From Oviedo to Santander by Pola de Siero, Infiesto, Arriondas — where diligences leave daily for Can gas de Onis — Rivadesella, Llanes, San Vi- cente de la Barquera, and Torrelavega. From Oviedo to Lugo, by Salas, La Espina, Luarca, and Rivadeo. From Oviedo to Cangas de Tinco by La Espina. Carriages may be hired at Oviedo and Gijon, for 7 to 10 dollars a day, which hold six persons. The keep of the horses and mozos is included in this sum. It is customary to give a pour- boire to the Mayoral at the end of the journey. 25 to 80 miles a day is the average time. When horses have to be changed the price is increased out of all proportion. ROUTE 48. OVIEDO TO GIJON — RAIL. EXCURSIONS FROM GIJON. Three trains daily. Oviedo Stat. Rte. 47. 3| m. Lugones Stat. 3 m. Lugo Stat. 6J m. Serin Stat. 4| m. Verina Stat. 3J m. Gijon Stat. 20 m. Gijon Terminus. Inns : Fonda de la Iberia, in the same building as the Casino, in the Cuatro Cantones ; French cuisine : Fonda del Comercio ; both good. Fonda de las Cuatro Naciones, less expensive, but clean and comfortable. Pop. 30,746. Theatre , near the Institute- Campos Eliseos. British Vice-Consul : W. Penlington, Esq. ' U.S.A. Consular Agent: Dn.S. Acebal. This, the most important of the Asturian seaports, is built on a pro- jecting low peninsula headland, under the hill of Santa Catalina. From the hill at Sta. Catalina the sea view is splendid. Gijon has gained immensely in importance of late years. It is the Gigia of the Romans. The name Gijhon , “valley of grace,” is Syrian. The Roman town was used by the Moors as a quarry, from which was taken the material to construct the frontier defence. The town then occu- pied the area of the suburb of Cima de Villa. After the loss of the Battle of Canicas, its Moorish governor, Munuza , surrendered the town to Pelayus, who entitled himself Conde de Gijon ; it subsequently became strong enough to beat back the Nor- man invaders in 844, In 1410 it 234 Route 48 . — Gij was rebuilt by Lucas Bernaldo . de j Quintana. Entering the town at the gate del Infante (the Child), erected by Charles III. in commemoration of Pelayo, the wide street Calle Corrida leads down to the mole and port. The Parro- quia de San Pedro is small ; the statues in it of the tutelar and of our Saviour are carved by Antonio Borja. Obs. the miserable monument erected to Gaspar Melchor Jovellanos, a benefactor of the town and a great and true patriot, born here January 5, 1744: he planned a more suitable ch. for the growing town, and also founded (1797) the Instituto Asturiano, with a tolerable library, and collection of original drawings collected by Cean Bermudez ; the building maybe visited at all hours. The drawings are badly arranged and classified ; the best have been photographed. Among the most remarkable are No. 2, by Benozzo Gozzoli, from the Campo Santo of Pisa ; No. 4, Masaccio , a male figure ; Nos. 28, 29, 30, fine drawings in the manner of Michael Angelo ; 49, Lippi, a charming representation of a child ; 140, Bafael ? probably a copy from the Arazzi ; 159, Salvator Rosa, 4 children’s beads ; 206 to 209, Tintoretto ; 212, Titian , a kneeling Doge ; 213, V crones, figure of a saint crowning a child ; 447, Albert JDiirer , a fine pen and ink drawing representing the Death of the Virgin ; 449, 450, 451, studies by Albert Biirer for the same pictures ; 460 to 465, Gallot , landscapes; 487 to 489 inclusive, Arfe Villafane , studies of male figures. There are 25 drawings by Alonso Cano ; the best are Nos. 232, 235. Antonio del Castillo, 45 drawings ; the best, 261, the head of a Boman emperor; 273, studies of female heads ; and 297, 298, 293, 294, some figures of Apostles, are very good. Murillo , 7 drawings ; the best is 318. Vargas , 336, drawings of animals. Zurbaran, 337, 338, very good. Becerra , 343, 344, two excellent anatomical drawings. Carreno , an interesting drawing of the interior of a nuns’ choir. Velazquez , 6 drawings, 407, 409, 410, 411,408,406, of no very great interest. Juan de Juanes , 413 ; Ribera , 427, 28, 29 ; Ribalta, 425. ion: Excursions . Sect. III. j Jovellanos died a miserable per- j secuted man at Vega, Nov. 27, 1811. Cean Bermudez, the author and ex- cellent writer upon Spanish Art, was also born at Gij on. Here, in the time of Philip II., the Invincible Armada was repaired. The first quay was constructed, 1552-4, by Charles V. A new one was built by Pedro Menendez in 1768, and en- larged in 1859 at a cost of £65,000. The port is being enlarged (1882), and will be in time one of the finest in Spain. It is considered the second most important port in Spain, owing to the number of vessels which touch there. Its principal commerce is the exportation of coal from Langreo ; pre- served fruits, fish, and vegetables, and iron from Eelguiera; and filberts, of which enormous quantities are ex- ported to England. Toreno and the Asturian deputies sailed from here May 30, 1808, to implore the aid of England to save them from Buona- parte. The tobacco manufactory em- ploys 1300 female hands, and the railway workshops, glass and pottery works, iron foundry, &c., impart great activity to the town. Gijon is a much-frequented sea- bathing resort during the summer months. Steam Communications to Sant- ander several times a week : to La Coruna, Vigo, Bilbao, and Cadiz, at frequent intervals : to London and Liverpool, by Messrs. McAndrew, at frequent intervals. Travellers going to Gijon may be recommended to visit Villaviciosa, and the interesting ecclesiastical remains in its neighbourhood. Excursions from Gijon. (1) A delightful drive may be taken to Somio ; the quintas, country houses, are charming : visit those of the Duke of Tarancon and Count Revillagigedo. (2) An excursion may be made by rail to the ironworks of Felguera. (3) The ecclesiologist may visit Deva, 3 m. from Gijon, where there is a ch. built in 1006. The walk from Gijon is beautiful. In the outer wall to Leon. Route 48. — Villaviciosa : Excursions. 235 the N. are several arches similar to those in the churches of Priesca and Valdedios. The interior is uninteresting. In an adjoining farmyard are two fine Byzantine capitals and some wooden figures of saints of the Romanesque period. Over the entrance door of the church is the following inscription: Nin (in) nomine Domini Jesu Christi pro cujus amore Velasquetae reginae prolis Ranimiri edificavit Templum Domini Sancti Salvatoris ; et reliquiae hie sunt recondete ut nisimi Sanctae reciperent premi digna et feliciter vivant et regnum Domini possidiant ; era millesima quod consecratum es templum Dei oc (sic). (4) Gijon to Sama. 2 trains daily. 26 miles. Gijon Stat. 10 m. Florida Stat. I m. San Pedro Stat. 3 m. Horena Stat. Pop. 1819. 7J m. Carbayin Stat. Pop. 6797. 4 m. Vega Stat. 1 m. Sama Stat. Here exists the large foundry of Duro & Co. ; near, the Marquis de Campo Sagrado has a country house. And hence to Siero. The Nalon flows through vast deposits of coal, which, like many other buried treasures in Spain, have long been neglected by the natives until the foreigner came to do the work. The peasants used to scrape out a little, and carry it on muleback to Gijon, where a load, worth 8d. at the pit, sold for 2s. This establish- ment at Halon is one of the most important of all the native and foreign companies which are at work here. Lower down on the Nalon is the dis- trict formerly belonging to the English company. The coal-beds in some places run 13 feet thick, but the aver- age is between 3 and 4 ; it is of medium quality and free from sulphur, but can- not compete with the English. The most important of these mines is that of Santa Ana. There are also ironworks on a large scale in this locality. Up the valley of the Nalon the road continues to Pola de Laviana (decent Inn), whence the artist and angler may make charming excursions into the Concejos of Aller and Caso. (5) Leaving Gijon, the diligence con- tinues along the high road by an uninteresting country to Villaviciosa. 14 m. Villaviciosa. Pop. 1200. Inn: Fonda de Pascual Cueto, good and reasonable, 20 to 22 reales, tolerable good food. This small town is the capital of the district which produces so many nuts ( avellanas ). Visit the church of Sta. Maria, the rose-window at the W. end and windows of the clerestory are very remarkable. Here the lover of old houses may look at La Casa de Vaqueros, in which Charles V. slept, Sept. 19th, 1517, on landing, having supped on fried sardines — the walnut table remains. The cider made here is excellent. Enquire at Villaviciosa for the house of the cura of Fuentes , in whose keeping is a fine ecclesiastical cross of the 11th century. Excursions from Villaviciosa. (1) [J m. E. is Fuentes. The church is well worth a visit ; it is ascribed to the 10th centy. (2) 3 m. N.E. from Villaviciosa, over- looking a desolate valley, is the hermi- tage of Nuestra Sra. de Sebrayo ; the church is an indifferent example of Romanesque architecture. (3) 1 j m. further E. is Priesca, a re- mote village, having a fine church, con- secrated in 915, in good preservation. The plan is similar to that of Sant- ullano at Oviedo. Obs. the curious screens of jasper, closing the presbytery, carved into a rude latticework, which formerly were placed between the side pillars, enclosing in the centre of the church a space destined for the choir, as at San Clemente of Rome : the remaining fragments are unfortunately lost. This is the only instance of the kind existing in Spain. (4) 1 m. S. of Villaviciosa, at the junction of several fertile valleys, is Amandi. The church is one of the most elaborate in the Asturias ; it was built in 1134. Obs. the apse, taken down and replaced stone by stone in 236 'Route 49 . — Oviedo to Santander. Sect. III. 1780, finely carved capitals and pointed arches. (5) 5 m. beyond Amandi, in the valley on the right, is the monastery of Val- dedios, founded by Benedictines in the 9th centy. The original church is per- fect ; it was consecrated by 7 bishops, a.d. 893. In interest it is second to none in Asturias. Obs. particularly the cloister on S. side, with its Moorish windows. Close by is the new church, a spacious Romanesque building, com- pleted a.d. 1218. On the left of the high road, at a great elevation, stands the hermitage of Nuestra Senora de Arbazal, only worth visiting for the sake of the fine view. (6) Valdebarzana, 5m.S. of Amandi, is well worth the archaeologist’s atten- tion. The following inscription may be read in the outer wall of the church of Valdebarzana : — * * * Martinus -f-pbs peccator+ et filii eclesiae pater nstr qui es T celi? — in era 3c post mtS eps Rodericks — + consecravit prima dna d acustus pater nstr. This church can be reached by walking about 3 m. along the high road from Oviedo to Villaviciosa ; on reaching Corolla, follow a path to the 1. for 2 m. The cura will show the church. Obs. over the doorway the curious tombstone carved in the early Christ- ian manner. The fine yew tree still exists. The ornamentation of this church is thoroughly in the Latin Byzantine style. In a village near, ask the cura ; there is a good Byzantine Font. (7) S. Lazaro de Lloraza, built by Doha Urraca, in the 1 1th centy., for lepers, is another good example of Romanesque architecture ; it is situ- ated about 5 m. N.W. of Villaviciosa. (8) 3 m. W. is Sariegomuerto ; the church is also Romanesque. The valleys around Villaviciosa afford endless rambles ; carry sketch- book and rod. If bound for Santander the traveller may go by the coast road to Rivade- selia, and there join the high road from Oviedo to Santander. See next Route. The distance from Villaviciosa to Colunga ( Inn : Casa de Huespedes de Dolores) is about 26m.; the road is very hilly and bad in places, and the chance of either finding a place in the diligence or hiring a carriage at the latter is very uncertain.] ROUTE 49. OVIEDO TO SANTANDER BY TORRE- LAVEGA, 127 m. Diligence distances. 24 m. Infiesto. 11 m. Las Arriondas. 9 m. Rivadesella. 18 m. Llanes. 13 m. Unquera. 8 m. Sn. Vicente de la Barquera. 24 m. Torrelavega Town. 2 m. „ Railway Station. 18 m. Santander. A diligence starts from Oviedo at 7 a.m. and reaches Llanes about 8 p.m. It leaves that place at 5 a.m. next morning, and usually, not always, reaches Torrelavega in time for the afternoon train to Santander. Passen- gers who prefer it can continue the journey in the same vehicle to Santan- der, which is reached about 6 p.m. The diligence consists of a coupe, very narrow and cramped when occu- pied by three persons, behind which is a sort of omnibus holding eight per- sons, with no curtain or blind for protection from the sun. Besides this, there is the diligence to Infiesto, and another carriage, the correo, which performs the journey by night, and is equally uncomfortable. Railway pro- jected, 1882. Leaving Oviedo, the road passes through a flat country to 3 m. The hermitage of San Martin de Argiielles, a building of the 12th centy, Leon. Boute 49 . — Oviedo to Santander . 237 5 m. La Pola de Siero. Pop. 21,808. (Inns, poor.) A considerable town of no interest. (3 m. N.E. is the church of Narzana , worthy of a detour by the antiquary.) 4. m. Nava. Pop. 6243. (Inn, poor.) The church is Romanesque ; in a little court near the apse there is a small Byzantine window. To the S. is the Monte Pena Mayor, clothed with rich pasturage to the summit. Near is the fertile valley of Fuente Santa and the mineral springs of Buyeres, the hot sulphurous waters of which are held in much repute for the cure of skin and scrofulous diseases. The road descends the valley of the Pilona to 6J m. Infiesto (Pop. 300). Here the diligence halts for the mid- day meal Inn : Fonda de Dupin. J m. W. is a cave sheltering three chapels and a priest’s house, at a bend of a tributary of the Pilona, called la Yirgen de la Cueva. A little below the town is the spot where Pelayo forded the river and escaped from the Moors on his way to Covadonga. The road from here to Cangas is delightful. 4 m. Villamayor. See the ruined church, consisting of a nave formed as a simple oblong, 40 ft. by 18 ft., and a chancel ending in an apse 15 ft. by 83 ft. In the exterior of the apse are engaged pillars and round it runs a rich arcade with billet mouldings. The pronounced character of the Ro- manesque work forms a marked con- trast to the churches near Oviedo. Obs. some curious sculptured figures on one of the jambs of the S. entrance, representing part of the story of the death of King Favila and the interest- ing primitive Ara. It is now misused as a cemetery. 3 m. Sebares. Obs. a curious lime- stone cliff overhanging the rt. or N. bank, giving its title of Pehalva to the count owning the adjacent palace. 5 m. Las Arriondas (Inn, decent), at the junction of the Pilona and Sella. From here to Rivadesella, the road follows the valley of the Sella through, very pleasing scenery. The new road between Rivadesella and San Vicente has been many years in progress, and is now completed. There is also a road in construction from Arriondas to Sahagun in Castile. Ribadesella : Inn , Posada del Sella, very fair. Pop. 1589. On the W. bank of the river is a grotto of stalactites, discovered in 1869. 3 m. up the river on the same side is a natural tunnel, used as a road for the peasantry for driving their carts. Ri- badesella is one of the best ports on the coast, and has a fair quay. The beautiful Sella comes down from Cangas de Onis : the fishing higher up above the junction with the Pilona, near Arriondas, is good. The whole road to San Vicente is intersected by a number of trout streams. 5 m. Nueva : decent Inn. 3 m. Naves. Ask at the house of the cura for the keys of San Antolin de Bedon. 3 m. San Antolin de Bedon has a plain but beautifully proportioned Church, built in 1213. It stands on a lonely meadow close to the sea, and is abandoned to ruin. The church has three aisles, terminating in semi- circular apses : in the one to the right may be seen the original ara. Obs. the inscription in the pillar to the right of the central apse — “ Era 1213. Nico- laus Abbas hujus Ecclesise ” — and the romanesque sepultures. The font which belonged to the church is now in the village church of Naves. The monastery is used as a farm house. 3 m. San Salvador de Celorio, found- ed 1017, is a monastery with interesting Romanesque remains. 2 m. Llanes. — Fonda de la Navarra, 20 to 24 rs. Pop. 2000. A small sea- port. The church is an interesting example of Gothic architecture with Romanesque ornamentation, it has 3 naves and a good Retablo of paint- ing and sculpture, German in style, of the beginning of the 16th centy., simi- lar to the one at Santillana. In the Sacristia there is a silver Gothic mon- strance and other church furniture of the 18th century. 11 m. Colombres. 2 m. Bustio, on the estuary of the Deva, which divides Asturias from the province of Santander ; opposite is 238 'Route 49. — Unquera — Commillas — Santillana. Sect. III. Unquera. Inn ,-Parador de Blanchard (3). The accommodation is good and reasonable, cuisine excellent, and a pleasant place for headquarters. The diligences stop at a new Inn opposite to Blanchard. An omnibus usually starts from Unquera for Torrelavega half an hour before the arrival of the diligence from Llanes ; at high water small ships come up the Deva close to the bridge at Unquera, and when the tide allows it is worth while to take a boat to the mouth of the estuary which com- municates with the sea by a narrow channel between two steep rocky heights. On the shingly strand the botanist will be surprised to find seve- ral subalpine plants, which have been carried down by the stream from the Picos de Europa, and on the slopes a few feet above the sea, he will see six species of heath growing together, including the rare Erica Mackaiana. The same spot may be reached by a circuitous road from Unquera — beware of crossing the meadows. 3 m. Pesues. Inn , clean and good. Here the river Nansa empties itself into the sea. Walk or ride up the valley to the cold sulphurous baths of Puente Nansa ; accommodation good at the Establecimiento, 16 r. a day, the usual price (never pay more in the province of Santander in small towns). The scenery is splendid, following the river, and trout-fishing may be had on the way. 4J m. San Vicente de la Barquera. (Pop. 1710.) Inn : Posada de Basilio, 16 r. a day. (Diligence to Torrelavega Stat. for Santander.) This most picturesque seaport town is surrounded on three sides by two inland rias, which are covered with wild fowl in the winter months. The river del Barcenal joins the stream 3 m. up at Pena Candil; boats can be hired for a small sum for this excursion. The Gothic church at San Vicente is interesting. Obs. in a chapel opposite the entrauce door, a fine reclining figure of the Inquisidor Corro. This place is well worth a visit : at high- water nothing can be more charming than the view of the town from the bridge or the sea. The fine bridge, with 28 arches, was built in 1433 ; the smaller, with eight, in 1779. 6 m. distant is Luey, with the salmon pools below the weir Muon - rodero. [Travellers who are not pressed for time, instead of following the high road to Torrelavega will do well to travel by the coast to Santander. There is no public conveyance, and carriages are not often to be found at Sn. Vicente, so that it is necessary to write or send for a carriage to Comillas. 6 m. from San Vicente, Comillas. Pop. 2409. Inn : Fonda de Romualdo Moro ; charge from 20 to 24 r. a day. This pretty village is much frequented by sea-bathers; it has risen to great popularity and many handsome villas have been built up around it, and for two seasons (1881, 1882) has been the place chosen by the Spanish Royal Family for their sea-bathing. The rides and walks in the neighbourhood are beautiful ; good carriages are to be had. Riding horses 16 r. per day. 10^ m. Santillana. Pop. 1802. This pretty town, which is worth visiting, the ancient Concona, world- renowned as the birthplace of Gil Bias, is placed on the River Besaya, which has good fishing all the way up to Corrales. Santillana lies about 3| m. from the seaport Suances, Portus Vereasueca. The besugos , a sort of bream, are excellent eating, but the Santillans have ceased to quaff the Tartar drink of horses’ blood, the luxury of their ancestors (Sil. Ital. iii. 361 ; Hor. Od. iii. 4, 34). The name Santillana is the corruption of Santa Juliana , as Ilian is of St. Julian, the patron of pilgrims. She is the pa- troness of the town, to which her body was brought in 1307. The Colegiata is one of the finest churches of the Province. It is Romanesque of the 12th centy., with some slight modifica- tions of the pointed style inside the church. Obs. the fine retablo covered with sculptures of the 15th centy., now in process of restoration. The altar frontal is made of silver work of the 17th centy. Behind the frontal are some interesting carved figures, the tutelar Saint, St. Peter, St. Peter and St. Paul, 239 Itouie 49a. — Oviedo to tfnquera. Leori. which evidently belonged to the retablo of the 12th centy. The Romanesque capitals inside the church are very good, and the font is the original one. Apply to the cura to see the fine jewels at the sacristy. Observe espe- cially the handsome silver proces- sional cross, partly Gothic and partly Plateresque. Here is also a Roman- esque silver head, which contains relics, two sceptres, several good silver dishes, and fine vestments. Visit the cloister, which with the exterior be- longs to the primitive work, it is sadly dilapidated : the capitals are extremely fine ; they represent subjects from the Passion and Crucifixion, and the legend of Santa Juliana and the Devil, and on one of them the Last J udgment. The general effect with the vine twin- ing round the arches is highly pictu- resque. Inigo Lopez de Mendoza the friend of Juan II. and the Maecenas of Spain, assumed the saint’s name for his title of Marquis, and gave it to this his city. The Casa Consistorial, in the Plaza , is a fine building, and worthy of a town which gave birth to the architect of the Escorial, Juan de Herrera. The streets are most pic- turesque, and numberless old houses abound. A cave may be visited near San- tillana which has been lately dis- covered, in which a great number of fossils of all kinds have been found. It is supposed to have been a kitchen midden.* From Santillana omnibuses ply to meet the trains on the railway to Santander — Rte. 24.] At San Vicente the high road finally leaves the coast and traverses a fertile country, well watered and planted, but not presenting any striking features. Nothing beyond bread or wine can be had at the poor inn where horses are changed, and if going on by the rail- way train there may be no time to get food at Torrelavega, It is therefore well to carry cold provisions. The traveller must nor forget that the railway station is distant 2 m. up hill * For further details consult “ Breves apuntes sobre algunos objetos prehistdricos de la Fro- mnciade Santander, Marcelino S.de Santnola." from Torrelavega ( see Rte. 24) and supplies at the little cafe opposite the station, scanty and uncertain. 10 j m. Puente de Arce, the Pas is here passed. It flows down from those healthy mountain districts, where stout singlestick-playing peasants be- get the wet-nurses, Las Pasiegas , who suckle the children of Madrid, and whose picturesque costume forms a gay feature on the Prado. We are now in the country of Gil Bias. Hence to thriving Santander. 10J m. Santander. (See Rte. 24.) ROUTE 49a.* OVIEDO TO UNQUERA, BY COVADONGA. EXCURSION TO THE PICOS DE EUROPA. This tour, including most of the finest mountain scenery of the Asturias, must be performed on foot or horse- back. A road has long been projected, to connect Cangas de Onis with Arenas, and thence lead to the valley of the Deva; it will be finished in the summer of 1882. Two or three of the most interesting places are accessible by carriage road, but it is not always easy to find conveyances. In order to be independent of such difficulties the best course would be to hire a caleche with a pair of horses at Oviedo and keep it the whole journey. Carriages can be hired at a more reasonable rate at El Berron, two leagues from Oviedo, at the junction of the railway of Langreo with the * The Editor is indebted to Mr. John Ball, F.R.G.S., for the greater part of the valuable information composing this Route, the re- sult of the personal researches of that enter- prising Alpine traveller. 240 Route 4:$ a— C angas de Onis. high road from Oviedo to Infiesto. The price demanded will be from 6 to 8 dollars a day, besides a pourboire for the driver. Neither should the traveller count on finding riding horses to hire in the district here described. It is sometimes, but not always, possible to engage a mule or donkey. Ladies’ saddles are out of the question; the Jamugas, however, are comfortable enough. It will be best to engage a horse and guide at Oviedo, but it is not easy to find a man acquainted with the country. Those who do not under- take to walk or ride in the mountains will be satisfied with the excursion to Covadonga, and that from TJnquera to Potes, which will amply repay them. At Las Arriondas, on the high road from Oviedo to Santander, an omnibus meets the diligence, and carries passen- gers to Cangas de Onis, a distance of about 3 miles, passing 2 m. Villanueva. Pop. 1314. most picturesquely situated. See the ch. of San Pedro, founded by Alonso I., ob. 757. It was built in the 12th centy. Obs. the representation of the death of King Favila while bear-hunting, or Valentine and Orson, on the capitals of the doorway. J m. Cangas de Onis (canicas, con- chas , the shell-like broken valley). Inns : Fonda del Casino, de Ramon Labra y Valle, fair. Pop. 9507. This former residence of the kings of x\sturias is now an obscure town, without walls. The Sella is here crossed by a very remarkable bridge, similar to the Puente del Diablo at Marlorell: it consist of 3 arches, and is of very fine proportions. Obs. the lovely view up the river. N.B. Trout-fishing above the bridge during the months of April , May, and June. Visit the modernised chapel of Santa Cruz , built over a Celtic tumulus, so called from the cross of Vic- tory : it was built in 735 by Favila, in the plain near Mercado de Cangas : an original inscription of the time re- mains, a most singular philological relic, and much discussed from Morales down to Caveda. On the sierra above, it was that Favila killed a bear with his spear, and the lancia, a true Iberian Sect. III. weapon and name, still may be traced in the poles of these mountaineers, who are great single-stick players. They handle their sliillelahs with Irish good- will and dexterity, and frequently beat away the bayonets of the troops sent out to put down smuggling. Into those glens the remnant of the Goths fled after the fatal battle on the Guadalete, in 711. HerePelayus, Pe- layo (whose father Favila — the Fafila of Arab historians — son of king Chin- dasvinto, had been murdered by the usurper Witiza), rallied a few brave men, and 7 years afterwards (in 718) gained a victory over the Moors, which delivered Gijon and all this nook of Spain from the Moorish invader. A carriage road is available from Cangas to Palencia in Castile, joining the main road at Panes. This road, which passes by the Concejo de Cabrales at the foot of the Picos de Europa, traverses some of the finest scenery of Asturias. Near Cangas de Onis is the exceed- ingly rich copper-mine belonging to Senor Fanjul, a gentleman well ac- quainted with mining in England. The mineralogist will also visit a carbonate of zinc mine in the immediate neigh- bourhood, which is perhaps the richest mine of its kind in Europe, yielding 80 per cent, of pure metal. It can only be worked four months in the year on account of the snow. The scenery south of Cangas de Onis is worth exploration. Take a local guide and provisions. Excursions South of Cangas . (A) [A pleasant excursion may be made by following the right side of the Sella to the confluence of the Dobra, which descends from the extreme eastern point of the Picos de Cormion. The Sella is followed as far as the Puente de los Grazos, which belongs to the neighbouring road of Ponga. The Sella is crossed on the left by a rough road formed by planks nailed against the rocks, called los corredores (not fit for timid persons), thence through fine forest scenery to the Puerto de Venta- mella, whence the traveller may Leon. 241 Route 49a.— descend by La Una, province of Leon, where the road is met with which, fol- lowing the valley of the Nalon, passes the Cordillera at the Puerto de Tarna. Another course may be taken by following the high road which con- tinues from the Puente de los Grazos below Sames by the valley of Sames until a deep gorge is entered called La Moneca. The traveller who wishes to enjoy the fine scenery of the valleys near Cangas must leave the high road shortly before the Puente de los Grazos, and ascending the Collada de Sames, make the descent by the Moneca. There is a fair Inn at Sames, called De los Corigos. After leaving Sames the road passes by the Escobios de la Moneca through a narrow valley, until Herreria de Ceneya is reached, where hospitality is afforded to the traveller at the Herreria. The road follows after this a gorge of 7 or 8 miles, which is full of picturesque effects. Observe the Escobios (rocks) of Allo- reda, Pena de Agoyo, Canalizos, and Pena de Ores. After leaving la Lloreda, the village of San Ignacio el Veyo is seen to the right. The traveller can get a bed at the cura’s house. The high road reaches as far as Rivota, a village of the Province of Leon, and from there the rough road ascends by Oseja to the Puerto del Ponton to Posada de Valdeon. The horses of the locality go with great security along these tracks, but timid travellers are advised to alight in dangerous places. The return journey to Cangas may be made by the Puerto de Beza to the foot of the Picos de Cormion, in sight of the river Dobra, descending by Amieba to Ceneya to join the high road.] (B) To visit Covadonga the traveller will proceed from Cangas by the river Buena 2 miles, to where the Deva joins it at Soto ; at this junction of the Buena and Deva is the Campo de la Jura, where Pelayo took the monarchical oath after the victory at Covadonga. Observe a very ancient house close by ; from there due south 4 miles through [Spain, 1882.] -Covadonga. a narrow valley inclosed all round by mountains destitute of any vegetation but heather, to Covadonga (read Southey’s ‘ Don Roderick’). Except at festival times there is no public conveyance from Cangas de Onis to Covadonga, and exorbitant prices are asked from strangers. The road is in part new, and new bridges have been built. 5 m. Covadonga. Inn: Posada, a substantial house with good rooms and clean beds, has been built, beside the tavern, for the reception of upper-class travellers : meals are supplied at a dollar a day, no charge is made for lodging, and it is usual to present a small sum to the institution on de- parting. Below the village, on the rt. bank of the stream, is an Obelisk erected by the Duke de Montpensier on the “ Campo del Rey Pelayo,” where Pelayo was proclaimed king. The valley, a perfect cul-de-sac, makes a sharp tarn just before you reach the cave, which faces east and is excluded from view by projecting rocks. The Cave itself opens to some 40 ft. ; it is fringed with ivy and ferns, a deep pool of clear water gushes to Nistona. It is now approached by a marble staircase from the monastery, which greatly mars the simplicity of the scene. From the top a wooden balcony is carried across in front of the inner cave. On the other side a tawdry sham Gothic chapel has been erected to replace the curious old wooden one burnt down in 1775. A very fine church is built (1882) on a rocky promontory facing the sanctuary. Space has been obtained partly by le- velling the summit of the rock, and partly by a massive embankment. The hero’s romantic tomb must be visited, a simple stone sepulchre, with no ornament but a sword of Roman pattern. On each side spring from the earth most delicate ferns. Below are traces of a Roman camp, and at Corao , in the village, Roman remains are frequently found. La Cueva de Auseva is the place whither Pelayus fled, as David did to that of Adullam : — “ Covadonga, el sitio triunfante Cuna que fne de la insigne Espafia.’ R 242 Sect. III. ' 'Route 49a.- It might well contain the 300 Spaniards, the Marathon band that annihilated 300,000 Moors, como cuenta la historia. Pelayus, the Dux or Duke of the Goths, died in 737, having reigned 18 years. He was buried in the small church of Santa Eulalia, built by him at Abamia, 4 m. from Cangas de Onis ; nor to this day is any dead body allowed to be placed in the site where his corpse was laid until it was removed to the Cueva. ' This victory was the first serious blow dealt to the Saracenic invaders, who afterwards became chary of ap- proaching the mountains : it proved a diversion, and raised up a new enemy in the flank of the advancing Moor, who, now occupied with a resistance at home, could ill spare troops for distant conquests beyond the Pyrenees : thus the warlike French gained breathing- time and organised resistance, until Charlemagne rolled back the torrent, and planted the cross on the banks of the Ebro itself. According to the Bishop Sebastian (‘Esp. Sag/ xxxvii. 79), 124,000 Moors were killed in the valley of Covadonga, and 63,000 were drowned under Monte Amosa, when, according to Paulus Diaconus, “ the rest they ran away ” in- to France, where 375,000 were killed. These statements are, in sober truth, things of romance : thus, according to Don Quijote (ii. 1), Orlando himself killed 2,200,000 of king Agrican’s army. Those who now tread these narrow de- files of Covadonga will, as atlas Navas de Tolosa and Salado, see the impos- sibility of moving, to say nothing of feeding, not 500,000, but 20,000 men ; the true solution of all these cuentas will be to read hundreds instead of thousands. The Moorish annalists treated their conqueror Pelayus with Chinese politeness, calling him a “ con- temptible barbarian ” — “ One Belay, who roused the people of Asturish/ , He was “ despised” by the Viceroy, Al-horr, as only commanding 30 men (‘ Moh. D/ ii. 34,260). Pelayus in reality was a true warrior of Spain. i.e. a Guerrillero , a Sertorius, Cid, Mina, Zumalacarregui, in short a Christian Abd-el-Kader. - Covadonga . Travellers should endeavour to be at Covadonga on the 8th September, when the great yearly festival takes place. The scene is most striking; the place is thronged for three days with peasantry who come from im- mense distances, to bring offerings and fulfil vows made; many come in their shrouds and penitents’ dresses, carrying tapers. The night before, great bon- fires are lit, fireworks are let off, and the people, who do not behave in an edify- ing manner, dance and eat and drink all night. Mass is said in the open air, and the effect is most picturesque, — the rows of peasants’ earnest heads, the lighted candles, vestments, and glo- rious scenery. The sermon is preached from a pulpit hung on to a walnut-tree. After Mass the Virgin is carried in procession, followed by the pilgrims. It is advisable to secure rooms at the Posada beforehand, or procure an in- troduction to some of the clergy at Covadonga, who with great civility offer beds and their table to any tra- vellers. The posadas are over-crowded and unpleasant on those days. (C) 7 m. climb from Covadonga is the Llano de Comeya, a vast amphi- theatre surrounded by precipices. There are three ways of ascending to the Lago de Enol; f m. in dia- meter, a delightful excursion from Covadonga; the view of Pena Santa and Picos de Cormion from the Vega is very fine. One is by the direct road, the other by following the Vega de Comeya, and the third through the valley of Orandi. The best way is to ascend by the second road, the Vega de Comeya, and return by the third, the valley of Orandi The val- ley of Orandi ends at the Pena de Covadonga — the stream that waters the valley enters the cave, goes through the rock, and reappears as a cascade over the chapel at Covadonga. The sportsman should particularly look out in the hills for the Bebeco , a sort of chamois : he will also find an abundance of caza mayor y menor. The naturalist may here cull simples, and pass his time in zoologizing and botanizing. The peasants will point out to the Leon. 243 Boute 49a. — Panes- curious in sucli matters the rivulets that once ran rivers of Moorish blood ; they will also show the boulders of granite hurled on the infidel foe, on the rocks the hoof-marks of the mule of Pelayus, and the carvings (at Abamia ) of the Devil carrying off the traitor- bishop Oppas.] 5 m. The road from Cangas to Panes continues by Corao to Venia. 2 m. Avin : observe a small cavern with an opening through which a tree emerges. The road passes under it, and ascends to Ortigueros descending by Carrena, crossing the mountain range that divides the basin of the Sella from that of the Deva. The views of the Picos de Europa and the valley are very fine. The zigzag road has been superseded by an excellent 3rd class road which goes from Cangas de Onis to Puente de Lies and there joins the road to Santander. Part of it is finished, the remainder is in construc- tion. Carrena. Inn , poor; the centre of the Concejo, aptly named Cabrales from the number of goats. The cheese made there is excellent. 15 m. Arenas {Inn, poor) ; at the junction of the Cares and Casaho ; the church is ancient. 15 m. Abandames, in a fertile vale, affords good fishing, and is much fre- quented by anglers. 4 m. Panes (good Inn), Posada de Manuel Gomez, beautifully situated, below the confluence of the Cares and Deva. At Panes we meet the high road that ascends the valley of the Deva from Unquera to Potes. The Pena- mellera , as seen from near Panes, might pass for a model of the Matterhorn, seen from the Yal Tournanche on a scale about one third of the original. Excursion to the Picos de Europa. As the majority of travellers wish- ing to explore the Picos de Europa are likely to approach them from Unquera, it seems most convenient to describe in the first place the road through the valley of the Deva , which follows a sitiUdus course circling found the S.E., —Picos de Europa. E.,& N.E. sides of the mass of the Picos- An omnibus carrying the post leaves Unquera at night, and reaches Potes at 6 a.m., so that those who do not wish to miss the grand scenery of the valley must find some other mode of conveyance. Riding horses are not to be had at Unquera, but a carrito or small tartana can generally be procured. The distances are approximately as follows: — Unquera to Panes, 8 m., thence to La Hermida, 7 m., La Her- mida to Potes, 10 m. Unquera : Parador de Blanchard (sec Rte. 49). The road on leaving the bridge at Unquera keeps the right bank of the Deva, but instead of following the sinuous course of that stream, soon begins to wind upwards over the hills, and after obtaining gradually a height of 500 or 600 ft., descends again to the valley; the striking peak of the Pe- namellera being conspicuous in the valley of the Cares, which joins the Deva near Panes. {Inn, kept by Manuel Gomez, very fair, civil people.) The river, which runs at the foot of the slope on which the valley stands, is navigable by boat to Unquera, and the pedestrian, descending the valley, may thus vary the way. Above Panes the valley gradually contracts, and about 3 miles above the village the road enters the remarkable defile of the Ciilorigo, through which the Deva runs for a distance of fully 10 miles in a very deep channel, only a few hundred feet above the sea-level, between the lofty mass of the Picos de Europa and a rugged group of lime- stone mountains that surpass 5,000 ft. in height. It recalls to memory the defile of the Brenta between Prirno- lano and Bassano, through which that river issues from Tyrol into the plain of Venetia. The rocks on either side are here less utterly precipitous, but the vegetation is more luxuriant and varied. The chestnut especially, which in the Alps is rarely seen on limestone, here grows in great beauty and per- fection. The sinuous crags and battle- ments of rock that overhang the defile are weathered in the most fantastic manner, being in many places pierced through by openings that give a view of the sky, aiid suggest the apprelien- r 2 244 Route 49a. — Potes . Sect. nr. sion that a breath might bring them down toppling on the road beneath. About 7 miles from Panes, at a bend in the defile, the traveller reaches the small hamlet of La Hermida, where there is a poor Inn , Parador de la Victoria, not inviting as sleeping quarters. Here a steep track, carried down a ravine on the 1. bank of the Deva, conveys the ore from the mine of Andara near the summit of the Picos de Europa. On the opposite side of the stream is a mineral spring, said to be efficacious in rheumatic and para- lytic cases. Above the Hermida the gorge continues, but gradually bends to the S., and finally somewhat W. of S. for a distance of about 6 miles, till it opens out in the valley of Llebana, as this part of the valley of the Deva is locally named. The fine forests which formerly clothed the slopes on either side, have been sadly cleared, and they exhibit a somewhat bare and monoto- nous appearance. There is a remark- able contrast between the climate of Llebana and that of the northern side of the mountains, this being much drier, with hotter summers and drier winters, and in consequence the vine, which does not prosper in the damp coast region, here thrives and produces very tolerable wines. After emerging from the defiles the road passes two small hamlets, and to the 1. is seen a new road leading to Cervera, and imme- diately after reaches Potes, the chief place in the Llebana district. There are two or three Inns, of which the best is that named Posada de Eugenio, from the Christian name of the worthy landlord. He occupies the mansion of some old family of the place, and the rooms are unusually spacious, and the food fair. This is much the best head-quarters for any one wishing to explore the Picos de Europa and the mountain range of nearly equal height that divides this district from the Muros. The neighbourhood of considerable mines leads to the frequent visits of engineers, and it is a pleasure to the traveller to meet intelligent gentlemen from whom to obtain correct informa- tion as to this little known country. The little town is very picturesque, and contains numerous solid stone houses adorned with the armorial bear- ings of families who formerly resided here, and in the centre stands a castel- lated mansion which belonged to the late Duke of Osuna. The Church is modernised, but in the neighbour- hood are two others that deserve a visit — that of San Sebastian about two miles distant. In the opposite direction to the right, | hour from the bridge is the Benedictine convent Santo Toribio. The Church has two unimportant Romanesque doorways ; it was modern- ised in the 15th centy., and a modern chapel added in the last century by Bishop Cossio. An interesting retablo, although much deteriorated, with paintings on panel, late 15th centy., is over the high altar. Obs. an old statue of Santo Toribio, daubed over, with a chain at its feet, which the peasantry believe cures epilepsy. Ask to see a splendid silver cross, which contains a Lignum Crucis in Bishop Cossio’ s chapel. It is an admirable specimen of Gothic transition work, and is covered with exquisite medal- lions of repousse work. This excursion, full of interest to the mountaineer, the naturalist, and the geologist, may best be made from Potes, but to ascend to the summit and return on the same day is a long day’s work, and a traveller provided with an introduction to the engineers or managers of the mines will do well to accept shelter for the night if such should be offered. Those who do not object to the rough quarters at La Hermida may see more of the moun- tain by making the ascent from that place and descending to Potes, or vice versa. If provided with a horse or mule used to mountain work, the traveller, ascending from La Hermida, finds a more direct track to the highest mine, locally known as An- dara, but more correctly San Benigno, and may ride all the way. In ascend- ing from Potes by the Canal de San Carlos, the upper part of the way is too steep to ride ; but on the other hand it is generally possible to find a mule Leon. Route 49a. — Andara. 245 or donkey for hire at Potes, on which I to accomplish the lower half of the | ascent, and such are not to be found at La Hermida. The following ac- count of the ascent is by a traveller who ascended from La Hermida and descended next day to Potes. Close to the Parador commences the ascent to Andara, the generic name of these mountains, and which is especially applied to the spot inha- bited by the engineers and miners. This road is 8 ft. broad, and fairly constructed, but without a wall or pro- tection on the dangerous side : it has been made for the carts drawn by oxen to bring the minerals from the mines : in some places it appears hardly cre- dible that a cart can pass. This ex- cursion can be made on horseback to the top without a guide, if necessary, by simply following the carretera. The whole distance to Pico del Ferro, near the mine of San Benigno, the highest point, is about 22 kilometres, 12 miles ; it takes 6 hours to make the ascent from Hermida. The gorge on the road to Bejes, by which the waters join the river Deva, is full, notwith- standing the wild condition of the locality, with walnut trees. 4 m. from La Hermida is the picturesque village of Bejes, placed at the foot of a moun- tain, with its little church dividing two groups of houses. This village is surrounded by a zone of vegetation, and is built upon red coloured sand- stone of the Triassic deposits, which run from E. to W., dividing the lime- stone- mountains. 2 m. beyond is Dobillo, half-way to Andara, the bu- vette (cantina) which provides the miners with food. A good breakfast of milk, bread, cheese, and eggs may be had at the cantina. At Doblillo almost all traces of vegetation disap- pear, and for the rest of the road to Andara you are surrounded by huge limestone rocks. On the opposite side is Treviso (Pop. 150), a solitary pastoral village, set apart from its position and bad roads, especially when the locality is covered with snow. No wine is ever drunk at Treviso, and no doctor or apothecary's shop has ever been known I there. Here the excellent cheese Picon I is made, a sort of Stilton. On reaching Andara two hollow cuts out of the lime • stone rocks appear like amphitheatres, from which two roads lead to the mines: on the highest is the house where the engineer lives, a rough buvette, cantina , houses for the work- men, and a small chapel dedicated to Sta. Barbara. The King of Spain spent some days of Aug.1882 at the Engineers' shed shooting robecos. The festival (romeria) is celebrated on the Assump- tion, 15th Aug. By starting from La Hermida at 5, Andara can be reached, even if the ascent is made on foot, be- tween 12 and 1. After resting, the further ascent may be made to the Pico del Ferro, by the mine of San Benigno, la Inagotable, in 1^ hour on foot or horseback. The view from there is as fine as a view can be without glaciers or snow-mountain. From this spot to the N. is a vast horizon of valleys and mountains, terminating with the sea ; to the S. the picturesque and beautiful valleys and mountains of Llebana ; to the E. a large group of mountains, and numberless villages scattered on the coast; to the W. the sun setting behind an array of peaks unseen out of the Dolomite country. The posi- tion is of the grandest order ; the only drawback being a cloudy day, when the valleys are literally covered by a sea of clouds. The sunrises and sun- sets are admirable. At the base, to the N. of the Pico del Ferro is a small lagoon, 200 yards, produced by the melted snow ; at the W. are the flocks of the shepherdesses of Treviso, which are brought to graze on the small patches of grass between the rocks. It is interesting to study their mode of life, the way the cheese is made, and primitive manner in which they en- close their cattle in the hollows formed by the enormous rocks which have fallen down the valley. The size of their habitations is incredibly small, and remind the traveller of prehistoric times. All these mountains are of carboni- ferous limestone. The zinc mines they contain are very numerous, and produce great quantities of calamine, smithso- 246 Boute 49a.—- Andara. Sect. III. nite, some zineonite, and blend, amber- coloured and transparent. Some lead is also found, but in small quantities. These mines have been worked for the last 30 years; before this only some small veins of lead were known. The first person who took a piece of cala- mine down to Potes to be analysed was an old shepherd of Treviso (tio Santi- ago); he knows every inch of the loca- lity, and places his flocks in the roughest spot near the lake ; he has been Al- calde of Treviso, and is always con- sulted on any detail concerning the topography of these mountains. The simplest manner of visiting Los Picos is after sunset to return and sleep at Andara, and after sunrise turn homewards ; although two or three days may be spent with great enjoy- ment at Andara exploring the lake, visiting the mines, looking for fossils — encrinites abound — and collecting wild flowers, forget-me-nots, gentians, and a large variety of stone plants and ferns, which grow in great beauty within the crevices of the limestone rock. As there is literally no sleeping accommo- dation at Andara, visitors should en- deavour to get an introduction to the local engineers, who are most hospit- able to travellers. The administrador of the mines is courteous, and ready to help a stray traveller with a bed and local guide in case he is not pro- vided with an introduction. August is the best month for this excursion. The mines are only worked in June, July, August, and September ; the rest of the year nothing is done on account of the immense quantity of snow with which everything is covered. The most direct way for descending to Potes is by the Canal de San Carlos : the near rock scenery and distant views are very beautiful. The mineralogist may, however, take another track by the mine of Aliva at the foot of the Pena Vieja. Rare varieties of blend are found there, and a track leads thence to Potes in 4 hours. To find the way by the Canal de San Carlos a guide is expedient, as there are many cart tracks, and the most direct course is not well marked. On the upper part of the mountain the way is very steep, and the horse should be led. The forests that once clothed the slopes below the upper craggy ridges of the mountains have been sadly thinned, but clumps of fine oaks are still passed at intervals. The lower slopes are in great part covered with brushwood, and the botanist will be interested by several characteristic plants of the interior of Spain not to be seen in the coast region of the Astu- rias. In from 4 hrs. to 4J hrs. steady walking from the summit of the moun- tain (longer if on horseback) the traveller reaches the poor little village of Turieno. Crossing an ancient stone bridge over one of the branches of the Deva, he comes upon a new road lead- ing to some of the mines in the upper part of the valley, and following the right bank soon reaches Potes, a dis- tance of about 2 m. Passing under some old houses and over the pictur- esque upper bridge over the main branch of the Deva, he enters the intricate narrow streets of the little town. A sort of omnibus without springs plies from Potes to Cervera taking a whole day for the journey, and from that place the traveller may reach the railway from Santander to Madrid at the stations of Reinosa or Aguilar (see Rte. 24). [At 4£ m. from La Hermida, on the road to Potes at the foot of Pena de Sebena, is the interesting church of Santa Maria in the village of the same name. Ask for the cura’s house, who will give the keys. The plan of the church is square, although modified by later additions. The roof is sup- ported by large brackets cut in circles of different sizes. Underneath them is a band of ornamentation of the same style as that of Guarrazar and San Miguel de Lino. The interior is com- posed of three equal naves separated by quadrangular pillars, against which rest columns with finely carved capi- tals with acanthus leaves and geo- metric traceries. These columns sup- port horseshoe arches, which bear a strong resemblance to San Miguel de Escalada near Leon.] Leon* 247 Route 50 . — Lugo to Oviedo * ROUTE 50. LUGO TO OVIEDO, BY VILLALBA, MON- DONEDO, AND VILLANUEVA, FROM THERE BY THE COAST TO BIVADEO. Diligence , 116 m. The fishing, both in sea and river, is everywhere excellent upon this route. Leaving Lugo (Route 46) an unin- teresting swampy country intervenes to 10 m. Villalba, after which the road becomes more hilly, and the glimpses of the distant sea are fine. 10 m. Mondonedo (Britona). Inn : Posada, tolerable. Pop. 10,934. It stands at the foot of Monte Infiesta, in an oval valley, watered by the crystal tributaries of the Masma, and is the see of a bishop suffragan to Santiago. The Cathedral was begun in 1221. Four chapels were added behind the Capilla Mayor in 1595-9. It has three naves, and two pepper-box towers. The new bell, weighing 24 cwt., which was cast at Leon in 1868, it is said, can be heard at a distance of 20 m. The Santuario de Nuestra Senora de los Remedios is a handsome building. The image la Grande , called also la Inglesa , was brought from St. Paul’s, London, at the Reformation. N.B. Bridle-path to Santa Marta de Ortigueira, and thence to Ferrol (see Rte. 54). Leaving Mondonedo, the road passes the Benedictine convent of San Sal- vador, on the Rio Masma, founded in 969 by the Conde Gutierre Osorio, who became a monk, went a pilgrim- age to Jerusalem, and was afterwards buried here in a superb tomb, con- structed of marble and mosaics.* Here also was buried his sister, Urraca. The convent was pillaged by the French. * For his Life and Miracles, see ‘Espana Sag.’ xviii. 296. The neighbouring district is well populated, much flax and maize is pro- duced : the latter is dried in buildings pierced with slits like windows for arrows. 4 m. Villanueva de Lorenzana. Visit the fine Benedictine Convent of Sta. Maria de Valdeflores, founded in 1077 by Count Da. Osorio Gutierrez, a brother of Dn. Urraca’s. The church and monastery were rebuilt in 1733— the only thing remaining of the old work being the sepulchre of the founder. 6 miles from Villanueva, near Bar- reiros, is the coast road, which is followed to Rivadeo — 10 miles. 17 m. Rivadeo. British Vice-Consul : Dn. A. de Torrontegui. Inn: fair. Pop. 9161. This sweetly-situated town is placed on the “ banks of the Eo,” at the point where it enters the sea. The Castillo commands the lovely bay, which is in form like an in- dented lake. On the pretty Alameda stands an Alcazar with two towers, and a Moorish-looking gate. The towns of Figueras and Castropol rise on emi- nences opposite. The river Eo divides the provinces of Galicia and Asturias. Thfe ria is famous for its oysters and fishing. [The angler may go to Abres (6 m.), up the river Eo ; its salmon fish- ing is renowned. From Abres he can descend to the Vega, and avail him- self of the good road which has been finished as far as the gorge of the valley, and from there, by Santa Eula- lia de Oscos, descend to the valley of the Navia, as far as the sea-coast. The road in parts is bad, the valley of the Navia can only be passed on foot and with great difficulty in some places.] If the traveller does not wish to go to Rivadeo, the river may be crossed at La Vega by an iron bridge. The road is already complete from Rivadeo to Luarca. There is a daily diligence to Oviedo, so that the traveller can now go the whole way from Lugo to Oviedo by diligence. Leaving Rivadeo, the stream is crossed in a ferry-boat to Figueras, the first town in the Asturias. 248 Boute 50. — Luarca — Aviles. Sect. ILL The western corner of Asturias lias never been fairly explored by the artist or antiquarian ; the Puertos at 8. W. angles are very fine, and the valleys below have scenery and buildings of interest, but the country is not so pleasing as to the E., and is thinly populated by a poor race ; halting- places are few and wide apart, and offer little or no comfort. 16 J m. Navia (Pop. 7058), a small town built opon its splendid salmon river. Obs. the fine iron bridge over the river. 12 m. Luarca. This pretty town nestles in a sheltered cove between the points Las Mugeres and Focicon. Here the trout-stream Negro comes down into the bay. The houses in Luarca are most picturesque, and a chapel, with a whitened tower, hangs above on a rock, a landmark to ships, and put into the picture as if to please painters. At the clean little Inn , with its shady garden, the angler might put up. This locality is thickly peopled, and culti- vated with maize. The peasants have less of the misery of the interior of Galicia; their homes are more com- fortable, and their windows oftener glazed. The costume and manners change and improve as we advance into the Asturias. The traveller who wishes to go by diligence to Oviedo can do so by La Espina, Salas, Cor- nellana, and Grado. If lie wishes to follow the sea-coast, he must leave the high road at Canero, and ride over Las Ballotas, a jumbled series of hills, to Muros. The road is uninteresting. Shortly before reaching Muros the little fishing-place of Cudillero may be visited. 2 miles from Cudillero is the beautifully situated house of the Marques de Muros. 25 m. Muros. Inn : Posada, poor — diligence daily to Oviedo. Here Jovellanos was wrecked by the in- hospitable sea, and insulted by the still more cruel authorities on land. He died at Vega, near Navia, Nov. 27, 1811, worn out by fatigue and old age, and heart-broken at the ingrati- tude of his country. Crossing the deep-blue and glorious fishing river the Nalon, over a splendid tubular bridge 300 metres long at the Castillo de San Martin, which enables the traveller to go straight to Pravia, 6 in., the scenery resembles Devonshire, with sloping wood-clothed banks, dipping into the water, damp and green. The road now passes the rich coal-mines of Arnao. The adit to the mine hangs about 30 ft. above the sea ; the shaft runs about 1200 feet deep, and below the water’s level. The seam of coal is about 40 ft. thick. 9 m. Aviles; Inn: La Serrana, Calle de la Herreria, fair. Pop. 9386. This ancient town (the Argen- teorolla of the Romans), the capital of its Concejo, is cheap and well provided with fish, game, and fruit. The frontal of the Gothic Ch. of San Nicolas (14th century) is composed of animals, flowers, and zigzag and engrailed patterns. Obs. in the interior a statue of Nuestra Senora del Carmen, by Antonio Borja, and an old tomb sup- ported by eight Byzantine Alhambra- like lions, belonging to the Alas family. The font of this ch. is hol- lowed out of a Corinthian capital. The Capilla de Solis was built in 1499, by Rodrigo de Borceros, for Pedro de Solis, who also founded the hospital in 1515. In the huge Ch. of San Francisco, obs. the early windows in the clere- story, and three old tombs ; also a Santa Rosa by Borja. In the suburb of Sabugo look at the Church dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury. Juan Carreno de Miranda the painter was bom at Aviles, March 25, 1614. Amongst ancient houses, obs. the Casa de la Baragana, in which Don Pedro el Cruel lodged ; and that of the Marques de Campo Sagrado, with his arms on the facade. The antiquarian should examine the archives of Aviles, and inquire for the supposed original Carta puebla , or charter granted by Alonso VII. in 1135 ; he may also look at some remains of the rude old walls near the quay, and obs. the Puente de San Sebastian. The Plaza (like the streets) is sombre, damp, and picturesque. The women are pretty, and walk with ele- Leon. JRoute 51 . — Oviedo to Villafranca. 249 gance, especially the maidens who come out to draw water after an Ori- ental and classical fashion : light and sure is the chamois step of these grace- ful Rebeccas and Hebes, upright their figure, and picturesque their bearing. The well or fountain in Spain, as in the East, is the morning and evening Tertulia of the womenkind, who here pause a moment from a life of toil to criticise and abuse their friends, for scandal everywhere refresheth the sex. Their costume is quite a l’antique ; a handkerchief, tightly drawn, defines the form of the head, while the hair and knots are collected behind, and fall quite in a Greek model. The bo- dices are of velvet or coloured cloth, with a tippet crossed over the bosom. 8 m. N. of Aviles is Cape Penas. Cape Torres is supposed to be the Arx Sextianx of ancient writers, though Morales asserts Gijon is the site. The country is open and wind swift. Aviles (equidistant between Santan- der and El Eerrol) is situated about 3 m. from the sea, with an open ria , flooded at high-water, and well stocked with wild -fowl in winter. A portion of these valuable salt-marshes has been redeemed by an embankment. 3 m. N. is Manzaneda, where there is an interesting Gh. built in the Romanesque style It is of the 11th centy., and once belonged to the Tem- plars. The arch over the high altar is extremely beautiful, and the masonry admirably preserved ; the corbels and roof also deserve notice. [Diligence daily in 5J hours to Pravia (Pop. 10,312. Inn , poor), do- minating its Yega, the most fertile and beautiful in Asturias. Hither the Court was removed from Cangas de Onis by Silo, buried in the ch. of St. John. Santianes, 1J m. N., now un- fortunately whitewashed and spoilt. The Nalon here is a glorious salmon- river still.] ROUTE 51. OVIEDO TO VILLAFRANCA DEL VIEKZO, BY CANGAS DE TINEO. 127 m. There is a carretera and diligence leaving Oviedo which is available as far as Cangas de Tineo. The road (1881) is finished to the top of the Puerto de Leitariegos, in construction to Toreno, finished to Ponferrada. This is the old road followed by the Maragatos , which was taken by Gil Bias on his way to Madrid. Leaving Oviedo the road soon com- mands fine views of the valley of the Nalon, which it crosses at 6 m. Trubia (Inn, decent). Here is established the important government artillery foundry. The situation is most picturesque and beautiful. The valley of the river Trubia is worth ex- ploring ; an indifferent road leads up to the Coneejo of Quiros, where a French iron foundry exists. Visit the churches of Sta. Nadaliade Tuhon (lOtli centy.), Trubia, Villanueva, and Proaza (11th and 12th cents.) From Trubia to Proaza there is a steam tramway which conveys the minerals from the Coneejo de Quiros. Proaza (Inn, bad) is a consider- able village, and may serve as head- quarters. There is a high road as far as Caranga, which ends there; the gorges are very fine. 6 miles from Caranza, at about one mile from La Plaza, the centre of the Coneejo, there is a very remarkable cavern, which has been little explored, about 1 mile long. [4 m. N. of Trubia and 3 W. of I Oviedo is San Claudio, a good Ro- | manesque church.] 250 Sect. III. Route 51 . — Oviedo to Villafranca. The road continues to 8 m. Grado. Inn , fair. Pop. 20,604. No antiquities. Obs. the fine bridge of Penaflor, 1 m. E. A long ascent and descent lead to 5 m. Cornellana. Posada, indifferent. The site of the defeat of Nepociano by Ramiro I., a.d. 824. The interest- ing ch. of the monastery close to the Narcea was founded in 1024. The road crosses the carretera of Belmonte to Pravia. This carretera continues as far as Soto del Barco and Aviles on one side, and Cudillero on the other. [4 leagues S. of Cornellana, up the Piguena, is Belmonte, having a vast ruined monastery of the lastcenty.; on the way is the gorge of Escobio.j The valleys of Salas, the Miranda and Narcea meet at Cornellana. The scenery from Belmonte is of the highest order. 10 m. Salas. Pop. 16,974. Inn , good. An ancient town. The church of San Martin de Salas outside the town has been built over the site, and with the materials of an ancient church of the 10th century. A number of inscriptions of this period, alluding to an Abad Alfonso, have been let into the outer walls, and traces of orna- mentation are visible in several places. The late Gothic church of La Co- legiata, founded by Cardinal Valdes (ob. 1568), is a very good building in the late Gothic style; his monument is a grand work, composed of thirteen statues of natural size, on one side of the high, altar. The monuments to his parents are in another part of the church. The square tower in the Plaza is interesting. 4 m. La Espina, a village in a dreary upland ; here the Luarca road diverges. The road is uninteresting until close to 14 m. Tineo. Pop. 22,939. Inn , poor. Picturesquely placed on a steep slope commanding fine views. Obs. the ancient house of Campomanes. and the church and cloisters of the monastery opposite. [3 m. W. of Tineo is Obona, a monas- tery dating from 8th centy. ; the pre- sent building is of the 12th. Another 3 m. brings to Barcena, founded in 973. Obs. the window in E. gable, and some internal pillars and arches ; the rest is 12th centy.} It is better to return from Tineo, to take the diligence road from Espina to Ponferrada, and follow the Narcea to Cangas de Tineo, instead of con- tinuing on horseback along the high road to Cangas de Tineo. The de- scent del Radical and the pass of La Florida are splendid and well worth seeing. In gloomy weather the scenery is very fine. At Ponfer- rada, if the traveller prefers it, he may join the railway of Galicia, or go by the high road to Villafranca del Vierzo. 19 m. Corias, a huge monastery founded in 1032 ; rebuilt in the last centy. li m. Cangas de Tineo (Lm, bad), shut in by high hills at the junction of the Luinia and Narcea. No antiquities. Obs. the curious bridge, with its two arches at angles to each other. The road follows the valley of the Luinia and Naviego, up which there is a road. 18 m. Puerto de Leitariegos. Pop. 437. The inhabitants of this district (called Las Branas, a word meaning a “ high place ”) are breeders of cattle, and live in small hamlets composed of chalets, chozas (mountain huts), like the Bor das of Navarra, to which they migrate from the plains during the spring and summer months. They are an isolated race, living apart from their fellow men, and probably de- scendants of Moors. The term vaquero (breeder of cattle), by which name they are known, is one of deadly affront. Jovellanos wrote a paper on them. These nomad pastoral shep- herds remove in caravans like gipsies, carrying all their household goods, children, and cattle. They thread in summer the intricate passes or the elevated heights* where they pasture their flocks, and make provisions of Leon. 251 Route 53. —Lugo to La Coruna . liay for winter, herding entirely with their cattle, and holding no commerce with the villagers below, or even with the other Branas on high. Each little clan stands alone and aloof, shunning and despising its neighbour : they fence themselves in against mankind, as they do their flocks against the wolf. They never marry out of their own tribe. These Bedouins of the mountain have retained many ancient observances, especially as regards their dead and funereal rites. 11 m. Lacsana is the first town in the Yierzo. Now the route follows the beautiful Sil to 11 m. Palacios del Sil. Pop. 2256. Thence through grand scenery to 10 m. Toreno (Pop. 2405), situated in the midst of a wild uninhabited district, and 8 m. Cacabelos, equally picturesquely placed. 3 m. Villafranca del Vierzo. Pop. 2187. (SeeRte. 46.) ROUTE 53. LUGO TO LA CORUNA. RAIL. 61 m. Lugo Stat. (See Rte. 46.) 8 m. Rabade Stat. 7 m. Bahamonde Stat. 4 m. Parga Stat. 7 m. Guiteriz Stat. Here is the mineral spring of San Juan. Leaving this little hamlet, the Ladra is again crossed, and the charming Mandeo, another trout stream, flows along parallel to the road as far as 7 m. Tegeiro Stat. 5 m. Curtis Stat. Pop. 3811. 7 m. Cesuras Stat. Pop. 4906. 3 m. Oza (San Pedro de) Stat. Pop. 7351. 5 m. Betanzos Stat. ( Inn : Posada de Don Carlos.) Pop. 8132. This an- cient city (the Brigantium Flavium of the Romans) rises on a hill over the Mandeo. Its narrow streets, or rather lanes, are still defended by some of the original gateways. The climate of this sheltered peninsula is peculiarly mild and agreeable in winter. Between Betanzos and La Coruna the line of route is so thickly populated as to present the appearance of a strag- gling village street. 7 m. Cambre Stat. Pop. 6173. 2 m. El Burgo Stat. Here the Mero is crossed by a bridge. At El Burgo, Drake and Norris routed the Spaniards under the Conde de Andrada, in 1589. 3 m. La Coruna Stat. Inns : Fonda de la Iberia — the house is not good, but the food excellent; Fonda Uni- versal, 81, Calle San Andres. Casas de Huespedes ; — de Mary Guyett, No. 19, Calle de Garras (suburb of Santa Lucia), a homely but clean English house; — de Inocencio , in the Calle San Andres, frequented by commercial travellers. Casino : La Tertulia de Confianza ; visitors free for a month upon the in- troduction of a member. Caftfs : El Suizo, in the Calle Real ; de Puga, in the Calle Real. Post Office in the Calle Real (nearly opposite the Rua Nueva). Capilla Evangelica. Theatre : Coliseo de San J orge. English Consul : J. H. Walker, Esq. Vice-Consul : Don N. del Rio. U. S. A. Vice-Consul: Anthony G. Fuertes, Esq. La Coruna ( our Corunna, the old Cruna, “ The Groyne ” of Queen Eliza- beth’s days), Pop. 36,113, is the chief support of Galicia. Founded by the Phoenicians, it was captured by the Romans, u.c. 693, when Junius Brutus named it Ardobicum Corunium. The city was subsequently called La Villa de Coruna ; Cor, Car, being a common Iberian prefix connected with height : 252 Route 53.— Corona., crown. The present name has been derived by some from Columna, the Phoenician Pharos, which (still called La Torre de Hercules) rises dis- tant 1 mile N.W. This Pharos , or lighthouse, was repaired for Trajan by an architect named Caius Servius Lupus, as is conjectured from a da- maged inscription formerly visible on a rock hard by. It was again repaired by Charles III., and has since been improved : being 363 ft. above the sea- level, it is visible at the distance of 12 miles. La Coruna blazons on its shield “this tower on rocks, a lamp, two crossed bones, and a skull above, crowned with an orle of eight scallops in honour of Santiago.” * In 1563 the city was raised to the seat of the Audi- enda , which in 1802 was removed to El Ferrol, and under the Constitution of 1820, to Santiago, and then in 1835 back again, to the infinite subsequent bickerings of the cities. La Coruna stands on a headland of the three bays, or rias , of Coruna, Betanzos, and El Ferrol. It lies about half-way be- tween the Capes Ortegal and Finis- terre. The entrance to the port, or Boca del Puerto, is defended by the castles San Anton and Santa Cruz, the latter placed on its little island, while the city itself is guarded by a picturesque sea wall, extending from the Puerta Real to the Torre de Abajo, and by the castle San Diego ; the land approach is by the cortadura. This secure har- bour, in war time, used to be a nest of privateers, who molested the chops of the British Channel. La Coruna has an upper quarter and a lower one ; the ancient party wall has been almost entirely taken down : the former contains the prin- cipal official and ecclesiastical build- ings. The Church of Santiago, probably founded about the middle of the 12th centy. , had a broad nave 44 ft. wide, which is divided into four bays by bold cross-arches. Obs. the W. door- * Consult ‘ Averigiiaciones,’ Jose Cornide, 4to., Mad., 1792, with plates ; ‘ Historia y De- scription,’ Enrique de Yedia y Goosens, 4io., La Coruna, 1845. -La Coruna. Sect. III. way : it has a figure of Santiago in the tympanum, and statues in the jambs. The N. doorway has heads of oxen supporting the lintel, with carvings of foliage in the arch. In this ch. is pre- served a fragment of an embroidered blue velvet cope. It is so similar to those of Ely, and other English examples, that Mr. Street thinks that the Coruna cope is also English work. (‘Gothic Architecture of Spain,’ p. 138.) The Colegiata of Santa Maria del Caxnpo was made a parroquia in 1256, by Alonso X.: in 1441 it was made collegiate. Its nave and aisles of five bays are all covered in with pointed waggon-vaults. The N. door has a sculpture of St. Katharine in the tympanum. The S. door has storied capitals : the corbels (under which are sculptured angels) support the tym- panum with its figure of St. James leaning upon a pilgrim’s staff. The tympanum of the W. doorway is sculp- tured with the Adoration of the Magi. The W. front is peculiarly picturesque. A tall cross, with a sculpture of the Crucifixion, stands in the Plaza in front of the ch. The tower is finished off witli a pyramidical structure as at Leon. The great altar is in an apse. Visit in the upper quarter of the town the Campo de San Carlos, and the grave of Sir John Moore, who, shrouded only in his martial cloak, was interred here on the 17th January, 1809, by a party of the 9th regiment. His requiem, sung by Charles Wolfe, rivals the elegy of Gray. The plain granite urn which marks the site of the grave is surrounded by a low wall, which makes it difficult to obtain a view of the inscriptions in Latin, English, and Spanish, upon the sides of the tomb. The monument was originally raised by the British Go- vernment : it was restored in 1834 by our Consul Mr. Bartlett. The oval enclosure, which now forms a kind of promenade garden, is about an acre and a half in extent. It was laid out as a garden, and planted with flowers, in 1839, chiefly through the exertions of General Mazaredo (read his inscrip- tion in the summer-house). Between the Campo de San Carlos and Leon. Route 53. — Battle. 253 the sea are two blocks of whitewashed buildings facing each other. The one to the rt. is a military hospital, that to the 1. a military prison. Between the old town and the new, in the centre of an open space, is the huge fortified barrack, erected, 1858- 1865, by the O’Donnell Government, as a strategic position from which to command the town, not the bay. This anti-revolutionary fortified pile cost the country 220,000/. The new town, La Pescaderia, which was once a fisherman’s suburb, is now the fashionable quarter. The principal street is the Calle Real. The market- place is charmingly picturesque ; it is trellised over on one side by luxuriant vines. Visit it early in the morning to observe the costumes and the abundant supply of produce — both of the land and sea. The Cigar Manufactory La Palloza is outside the town, in the suburb of Santa Lucia : it employs more than 3000 women and girls. It may be visited with an order obtainable from the Senor Director. La Coruna is the centre of an ex- tensive export cattle trade. Many thousand fat oxen are yearly shipped to London, Plymouth, Liverpool, &c. The popular promenade is the tree- shaded Marina. The Calle Real is also a favourite evening paseo. A very pleasant walk leads to the tower of Hercules, from which a fine sea and coast view is obtained. The sea-bath- ing at Coruna is very good. The cli- mate during the winter and early spring is admirably adapted for weak constitutions, requiring mild, bracing air of an equable temperature. The Corunese are a lively, agreeable people ; th e gentler sex are many of them of fair complexion, and of an Anglo-Saxon type of features; they walk in an elastic and graceful manner. Amongst the lower classes the true Hibernian type predominates, the ifisher-girls especially being Irish to the backbone. These picturesque creatures go bare-legged and bare- iarmed, and dress in brilliant colours. The men are clad in pano parlo , and wear knee-breeches, broad-brimmed sombreros , and bright scarlet-coloured sashes wound round the waist. The historical recollections of Coruna are peculiarly interesting to an Eng- lishman. Here John of Gaunt landed, July 26, 1386, to claim the crown of Castile in right of his wife, the daughter of Peter the Cruel. Philip II. em- barked from hence to marry our Queen Mary. It was from Coruna that the Spanish Invincible Armada sailed on the 26th July, 1588, to conquer and Romanize Great Britain. The squadron con- sisted of 130 ships, armed with 2630 cannon, and manned by 19,275 sailors, and 8450 soldiers. La Coruna was taken, April 20, 1589, by Drake and Norris with only 1200 men, the Spanish fleet flying on his approach to El Ferrol, and the garrison to the citadel. In this bay Sir David Baird landed in October, 1809, with 6000 men, to assist the Spaniards. The last hard-fought action between the French and the English at Coruna w T as fought, Jan. 16, 1809, on the heights of Elvira, behind the town. Moore’s position was bad, from no fault of his, as with only 13,244 men he could not defend the stronger but more extended line of the outer heights against the superior numbers of the enemy, while, from his artillery being embarked, he was obliged to occupy the range nearer the town. About 2 in the afternoon, Soult, with 20,000 men, with great supe- riority of cavalry and artillery, at- tacked the English, and was every- where most signally repulsed : the 4th, 42nd, and 50th, under Baird, putting to flight at Elvira a whole column commanded by Foy. Our loss amounted to 700, while the enemy’s exceeded 3000, as their column was riddled by our steady lines at Elvira, who fortunately before the battle were supplied witii fresh muskets and am- munition. Moore, like Wolfe, Aber- cromby, and Nelson, lived long enough to know that the foe was defeated, and like them died happily, having “ done his duty.” His last words (the tongues of dying men enforce attention like 254 Route 54 . — La Coruna to El F err 61. Sect. III. deep harmony) were in anticipation of his posthumous calumniators : “ I hope THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND WILL BE satisfied; I HOPE my country will DO ME JUSTICE/’ The embarkation took place with perfect order, and so entirely un- molested by the worsted foe, that had the English only then been turned against Soult, he himself must have taken to his heels. Excursions : To the baths of Arteijo, Pop. 8204 (7 m.), and thence forward to Carballo, Pop. 11,902 (14 m.). The road is bad : it leads past the ch. of Oseiro, and the celebrated sanctuary of Pastoriza. Arteijo has poor lodging accommodation. The season com- mences 1st July, and terminates 30th Sept. The waters are strongly impreg- nated with chloride of sodium, and are considered beneficial in stomachic disorders. From Arteijo the rough mountain road continues (7 m.) to the Baths of Carballo . The 85 houses of which the village is composed are most of them lodging-houses ; the accommodation, however, is rude and uninviting. The waters are sulphurous, and are reputed to possess various curative qualities. The season commences July 1, and closes Sept. 30. Steamers from Coruna. Fine stea- mers twice a month to and from Liver- pool and Havre. To London take steamer to Vigo, and from there one of John Hall’s steamers which touches there weekly. To London monthly; to Bilbao, Santander, Gijon, Carril, Yigo, Cadiz, Malaga, and Barcelona, about twice a week. (N.B. For times of sailing consult the noticias pla- carded upon every wall.) — To El Ferrol daily at 3 p.m., returning from Ferrol the following morning at 9. (See Bte. 54.) BOUTE 54. LA CORUNA TO EL FERROL. 33 m. El Ferrol is distant 11 m. by sea from Coruna and 33 m. by land. The pleasantest route is by the steamer, which leaves Coruna at 3 p.m. and arrives at 4.45 at El Ferrol, returning the next day at 9 a.m. Kail to Betanzos ( see * Indicador ’). The diligence route from Betanzos, 21 m., is as follows ; — Betanzos Stat. See Bte. 53. 12 m. Puente d’Eume. Pop. 8634. This picturesque town stretches from the shore of a ria (or bay ) up the side of a steep hill. Its remarkable bridge, originally 1 mile long and formed of 58 arches, was destroyed in 1868 to make way for a modern structure, which spans the actual bed of the river at its mouth, the rest of the ancient road being now carried over an em- bankment, which has been constructed for the purpose of reclaiming the land to the rt. of the way. 6| m. Seijo. Situated upon the Bay of Ferrol, and exactly opposite the town itself. From this point take a boat and cross over (in 1 5 minutes ) to Ferrol, thus avoiding the circuitous land-route of 7 m. 2J m. El Ferrol. Inns : There are no inns which can be recommended. Casas de Huespedes : de la Yizcaina, in the Calle Beal, the best, but gene- rally crowded with commercial men ; de Maria Kamos, on the Plaza de los Dolores ; de la Cubana, in the Calle de la Magdalena. Caf&s. — De la Iberia, Calle de la Magdalena; del Angel, in the Calle Beal. N.B. In both of these cafes excellent English beer is always on draught. Leon. Route 54 .—El Ferrol. 255 Clubs. — Circulo de la Recreation, No. 177, Calle de la Magdalena Liceo de Artesanos, in the Plaza de Armas (see below). Restaurant. — La Esmeralda, oppo- site the Puerta del Parque; a primi- tive establishment, but much fre- quented by naval and military officers on account of its Anglo-French cuisine. Post Office. — Calle Real (corner of the Plaza de los Dolores). English Vice-Consul. — Manuel Gar- cia, Esq., No. 58, Calle de San Fran- cisco. U.S.A. Consular Agent. — Dr. Nicolas Perez del Castro. El Ferrol (Pop. 22,524) was origin- ally a fishing village. It derives its name from an ancient farol (or light) which was placed at the head of its land-locked channel. Charles III. first selected the site for a royal naval ar- senal. The magnificent harbour is scooped out by nature in a strikingly picturesque manner. Its narrow en- trance is defended by the Castles of San Felipe, to the N., and Palma, to the S. The Arsenal is the principal sight in Ferrol. The land side was fortified, in 1769-74, with a massive wall upon which 200 cannon might be mounted. The dockyard is entered by the Puerta del Dique : it is divided into a smaller outward and a larger inward portion. In the N. angle are the foundries, and the engineering departments. Further on to the rt. is the Exterio (hospital) and the Presidio (naval prison) The Gradas de Construccion (ship-building slips) are also within the dockyard. The Puerta del Parque leads to the Doric Sala de las Armas. Outside the arsenal is the timber depot of Car- ranza. The general arrangement of the de- partments is admirable, the buildings themselves being constructed in most substantial style. The engineering shops are fitted with every modern ap- pliance. During late years the arsenal has employed from 3000 to 4000 work- men, the managers of departments being almost exclusively Englishmen. The town of Ferrol is clean and picturesque, although very unevenly paved. It is built in the form of a parallelogram of six streets in width, and ten in length; these intersect each other at right angles. The hand- some Plazas de los Dolores and del Carmen lie at either end of the Calle Real, which is the principal street. The pleasant Alameda lies without the arsenal wall ; observe its fountain, erected, in 1812, by General Abadia, in honour of Cosme Churruca, the Spanish Admiral who lost his life at the Battle of Trafalgar. The Paseo de Chinela is another delightful pro- menade. The Paseo de Herrera, laid out and planted with acacia- trees in 1867, commands fine views of the dockyard, the ria, and the distant hills. The house with a flag-staff to the rt. of the Paseo is the residence of the naval governor. Those who are interested in work- ing-men’s institutions will visit the Artisans’ Club {el Liceo de Arte- sanos) situated in the Plaza de Armas. The building is roomy and well arranged; it contains reading- room and library, ball, billiard, and chess rooms, cafe, and a class-room, where architectural and mechanical drawing, mathematics, French, and history are taught during the winter months. There are about 950 mem- bers, divided into two classes, honorary and working. The latter class pay larger subscriptions, and thus entitle themselves to assistance from the sick- fund when disabled by illness or acci- dent. Amateur concerts and drama- tic performances, balls, and tertulias are given frequently to the members and their friends. Ferrol was the scene of one of our greatest military blunders. In 1800, a squadron under the command of Gen. Pulteney made an attack upon the town. Just as the inhabitants were preparing to surrender, the cowardly Pulteney — scared by the rapidly fall- ing barometer, and beaten (it is said) at the game of brag — ordered the re- embarkment of his almost mutinous troops, amidst the jeers of the sailors of the English fleet, and to the aston- ishment of the Spaniards themselves. 256 Route 54 . — El Ferrol : Excursions. Sect. III. Excursions from Ferrol. — (1.) The antiquarian should visit the Church of Cliamorra , 2 m. to the N.W. of the town. Its foundation dates from the remotest antiquity. Obs. the huge boulders which lie close to the outer wall of the ch. They are probably the remains of a Celtic altar : the upper- most stone was doubtless originally placed in a much more elevated posi- tion, as the figure of a human form (saint or virgin) is roughly sculptured upon the lower surface ; its outline can be distinctly felt by passing the hand underneath the stone. It is probable that this out-of-the-way spot was chosen for the ch. owing to the sacred tradi- tional character of the pagan site itself. About i m. to the N. of Chamorra are the remains of a Celtic dolmen. The upright stones still retain their original position, but the cross-stone has been displaced and is lying upon the ground. Continuing our walk in a N.W. di- rection (f m.) we reach the singularly interesting specimen of a Celtic bar- row, known as el Castro de Vilasanche. It is circular in form, and the S. side retains its original altitude and shape. Composed of alternate layers of earth and stones it covers an area of, circa, 220 square yards, and commands the plain below. This barrow, together with many other most interesting re- mains which exist in the immediate neighbourhood of Ferrol, are carefully described by Senor Saralegui y Medina, whose work upon the Celtic antiquities of Galicia * should be in the hands of every one interested in Celtic re- searches. (2.) Excursion to the Convent of Caaveiro, 10 m. — Send for a boatman over night, and order him to engage horses. Attend to the provend. Start early. You will be rowed across the bay. 3 hrs.’ riding over a wild moun- tain-path, with glorious glimpses (to the rt, ) down upon the jagged outline of the coast, will bring you to the brow of the hill, from whence the steep descent to the monastery must be made. * ‘ Estudios sobre la Epoca Celtica en Galicia/ por D. Leandro de Saralegui y Medina, Ferrol, 1868 . The road now becomes execrable, but the sure-footed ponies can be depended upon. The valley of Caaveiro is one of the most secluded in Spain; the view of the convent is strikingly picturesque. When first seen from the heights above, the ivy-mantled ruin seems to be almost level with the river (Eume), which encircles it around in horse-shoe shape, but it is, in fact, greatly ele- vated above the stream, being perched upon a precipitous semi-detached rock which rises in the centre of the glen. The convent portal is approached along the narrow ledge or ridge which alone attaches the rock to the side of the valley. The farmer who inhabits this secluded glen will conduct the visitor over the convent. The ex-Colegiata de Caaveiro, dedi- cated to San Juan, is said to have been founded by St. James the Apostle. Its massive walls, embattled turrets, and numerous subterranean prison - cells would, however, lead to the supposi- tion that the place was originally con- structed for a stronghold of one of the religious military orders, and was sub- sequently appropriated by the friars. San Rosendo, the celebrated bishop of Montenedo, was abbot of this cole- giata. His surplice, and the golden chalice (of peculiar shape) with which he celebrated Mass, were preserved until about 1855 in the convent. The little chapel was then unroofed and allowed to go to decay, and these precious relics of the past have disappeared . Descend into the gloomy cells, where the prisoner was unable to stand upright or even lie at length upon the damp floor. The Eume , which flows immediately below the convent, is one of the finest salmon and trout streams in Galicia. The neighbour- ing hills are well stocked with wild boars, partridges, hares, and other game. Periodical boar-hunts take place during the autumn and winter months. Obs. the tawny-red coloured hawks which are generally to be seen circling in the air around the rock. Eagles also may be occasionally ob- served feeding upon carrion in the midst of the glen. The Valley , of Leon. 257 Route 55 . — Lugo to Santiago. Caaveiro is so completely sheltered from every wind, that vegetation begins a month earlier than in other parts of the province. (3.) Excursion to the mines of Vic- toria, and the sea-side bathing-place of Pasantes, 27 m. This interesting excursion can be made either in the diligence or on horseback. The country is wild and picturesque* and abounds in game. The rio Juvia abounds in fish. [1 J m. to the rt. of Juvia is the extensive linen manufactory of Rojal, employing 350 hands. J m. below these works is a magnificent waterfall; the whole volume of the rio Nada is precipitated in one grand cascade into the ravine below. The river abounds with trout ; its water is also considerably impreg- nated with mineral matter, so much so in fact that the inhabitants of the Ferrol are in the habit of using it for medicinal purposes. The ‘immediate neighbourhood is wild in the extreme, and boars, deer, partridges, and vast flocks of wood-pigeons abound.] From Juvia the road continues to Sansaturnino (4 m.), Pop. 500, where is a convent belonging to the Benedic- tines and a country residence of the Marquis of Sansaturnino. Afterwards the hamlets of Moeche, Pop. 3310 (2 m.), and Abad (2J m.) are passed to La Barquera (4J m.). [Here a detour of 1 J m. can be made to enable the traveller to visit the iron pyrites mine of La Victoria, owned by our countrymen, Messrs. Hutchinson and Earle, and managed by Captain Barrett, a gentleman of practical ex- perience in Spanish mines and mine- rals, who is ready to give information to visitors.] b From La Barquera the road con- tinues to Mera (3 m.), and thence to Santa Maria de Ortigueira. — Posada de Piiion. Pop. 17,363. Here the angler and artist can make head- quarters. 2 m. ^farther on is the sea- side bathing village of Pasantes, where, however, the lodg- ing accommodation is very poor. [Spain, 1882.] N.B. A rough bridle-track will lead the traveller who desires to proceed northwards, to Mondonedo (see Rte. 50), and thence to Oviedo. ROUTE 55. LUGO TO SANTIAGO. 51 £ HI. The excellent diligence -road de- scends steeply to the level of the river Mino, which it crosses by an exceedingly narrow bridge. Along dreary road conducts to 12 J m. Venta de Huttin. Hence over swamps, moors, rivers, and heathery hills to 11 m. Palas del Bey. Pop. 8040. The shooting about here is excellent. 2. m. Mellid. Pop. 6108. The Posada here is bad. 10 m. Arzua. Pop. 8315. We soon obtain our first sight of the dark granite towers of the Pilgrim city, and the deep-mouthed cathedral- bells salute the ear. The first sight — as in other Meccas — makes a more pro- found impression than does a prolonged stay in the city itself. The pilgrims of old, upon first sighting Santiago, uncovered, and proceeded — in all humility — (some upon their knees, and all singing hymns) up to the very gates of the holy city. Santiago. 3 258 Sect. III. Boute 55. SANTIAGO. $ 1. Hotels, Cafe, Theatre, Post Office, Shops 258 2. Historical Notice 258 3. Cathedral, Squares, Seminary, Hos- picio, Convent of San Martin . . . 258 $ 4. University, Convents, Old Houses . 264 $ 5. Promenades, Markets, Walks . . . 264 § 1. Hotels, Cape, Theatre, Post Office, Shops. 9 m. Santiago de Compostella. Inns : Fonda Suiza ; Fonda de la Yizcaina ; Rua del Yilar ; Casa de Huespedes de Rey, opposite the University. Cafe : Cafe Suizo, good. Compos- tellano, in the Rua Nueva. Theatre , in the Rua Nueva. Post Office, in Plaza Quintana de Muertos, close to the cathedral. Italian Warehousemen : D. Jose Fer- nandez Yasquez, Calle de Pregun- torio ; D. Quirino Almoina, in the same street. In both of these shops the peculiar cheeses of Galicia, called queso de teta (from their form being like a woman’s breast), and the ex- cellent jamon dnlce (sweet hams), may be obtained for shipment direct to England, via the port of Carril, to the consignment of the purchaser. § 2. Historical Notice. This city (Pop. 23,709) bears the Spanish name for St. James the Elder : it is also called Compostella (Campus- Stellse) because a star is said to have pointed out where his body was con- cealed ; some derive it, however, from the Giacomo Apostolo of the Italians. Santiago may be said to have been first founded by Theodomir, Bishop of Tria, in 829 a.d., some years before which he professed to discover the body of St. James the Apostle, in a wood situated upon or near the site of the present city. Alonso II. at once erected a chapel on the site, houses sprang up around it, the chapel was enlarged into a cathedral (finished 874, and consecrated May 17, 899). Since the foundation of the ch. the shrine of Santiago has been the favourite resort — Santiago . of pilgrims, not only from all parts of the peninsula, but from England and France. Santiago, although much shorn of its former civil and religious dignities, is still the see of an archbishop, with a cathedral, 2 collegiate churches, and 15 parishes. It was formerly the residence of a captain-general and of an Audiencia, which were removed to La Coruna in 1835. This hill-girt city is very pictu- resquely built upon an uneven irre- gular site ; thus, while the convent of San Francisco lies in a hole, the cathedral occupies a slope in the heart of the city. The town is full of arcades, fountains, and scallop-shells : and has a sombre look, owing to the effect of humidity on its granite mate- rials. The wet weather is favourable to vegetable productions, and the clouds drop fatness; in consequence the town is cheap and well supplied with fruit, among which the tJrraca pear is delicious. The river fish, espe- cially trout and eels, are excellent. The rivulets Sar and Sarela, better known as the toad-streams, Los rios de los Sapos, flow to the N.W. 3. Cathedral, Squares, Seminary, Hospicio, Convent of San Martin. The Cathedral (the first object of the pilgrim of Compostella) was founded 1078, under the episcopate of Pelaez, upon the site of the one consecrated in 899, which was destroyed by the Moors under Al-Mansur in 997. Under the episcopate of Diego Gelmirez (who was consecrated 1100 and died 1130) Sant- iago was made an archbishopric. This cathedral is unusually com- plete and uniform in style : it is both in plan and design an exact repetition of the Ch. of San Sernin at Toulouse, which was founded 22 years previously. The primitive character of the exterior has been injured by subsequent altera- tions and additions. Before entering the cathedral walk round and observe the exterior of the edifice, commencing with the grand W. facade which fronts the Plaza de Leon. Uoute 55.- la Constitucion, or “del Hospital.” This fagade is placed between two over-charged towers — only about as high as the side walls of the ch. — which terminate in pepper-box Chur- rigueresque cupolas. Between these towers obs. the statue of the Apostle, designed by Ventura Rodriguez in 1764, which is placed in a lofty niche : before the figure of St. Iago kneeling kings are sculptured. To the rt. rise the square towers of the cloisters, with an upper row of arcaded windows, and picturesque round towers at the angles. These grand cloisters, the exterior of which is rather Renaissance than Gothic in character, are simple and serious in the inside ; they were built 1533, by Fonseca, afterwards Arch- bishop of Toledo: his library was placed in a noble suite of rooms above them. To the rt. of the W. fagade are the chapter-house and the other dependances of the cathedral ; to the 1. the gloomy palace of the primate. The handsome Plaza de la Consti- tucion is bounded on the other three sides by public buildings : to the W. is the vast Seminario, founded 1777 by Archbishop Basoy for the education of young priests ; it has been restored to the church. The Casa del Ayunta- miento is on the ground-floor. To the N. is the Hospicio de los Reyes, built in 1504 by Enrique de Egas, at the command of Ferdinand and Isabel, as a hospital for pilgrims. The founders’ portraits ornament the por- tico : the hospital is divided into four quadrangles, with a Retablo in the centre, so contrived that the patients in the different storeys can all see the sacrifice of the Mass. The elaborate portal is enriched with saints, pil- grims, chain-work under the cornice, and the badges of Ferdinand and Isabel. Two of the patios have arches and delicate Gothic work; observe a fountain gushing into a tazza from four masks. The chapel is plain, but the portion within the railing is un- equalled in Santiago for delicacy and richness of work ; the roof springs from four arches with Gothic niches and statues. The other two patios are of later date, and in the Doric — Santiago . 259 style : in the entrance hall are bad portraits of the royal founders. To the S. is the Colegio de San Geronimo, commonly called Pan y Sardina , from the poverty of its accommodations: it adjoins the now suppressed Colegio de Fonseca, founded in 1544 by Arch- bishop Fonseca. Leaving the Plaza Mayor by the S.W., turn into the Plateria, situated at the S. entrance of the cathedral. This is the most ancient front, but it has been to some extent damaged by the erection of a lofty clock-tower at the S.E. angle. The rest of the facade is fortunately preserved. The details of the work are of great interest, being of earlier design than that of the western part of the ch. : the marble shafts are carved with that extreme delicacy which is so characteristic o early Romanesque sculpture. The jamb of the door retains an inscrip- tion, deeply cut in large letters, which gives the date of the execution, era 1116, a.d. 1078. The Torre is one of the original towers into which Gel- mirez and Urraca fled from the popu- lace. The mob tried to burn them out — a very Oriental and Spanish custom : it was formerly called la Torre de Francia, as the long street is still del Franco. The French in those times enriched the shrine, and Louis le Jeune came here in person as a pilgrim. Marshal Ney sacked the shrine ; and when Soult’s flight from Oporto caused him to abandon Santiago, May 23,1809, he carried off, says Toreno, 10 cwt. of sacred vessels . A portion of the cathe- dral treasure escaped, because the spoilers feared the hostility of the plateros, the silversmiths who live close to the cathedral, and by whom many workmen were employed in making little graven images, tera- phims and lares, as well as medallions of Santiago, which pilgrims purchase. Obs. on the Plaza the gushing foun- tains supplied by Tritons. Now, proceeding to the rt., enter the Plaza Quintana de los Muertos, the former cemetery of the canons. Obs. on this side of the cathedral La Puerta s 2 260 Sect. Ill* Route 55 . — Santiago : Cathedral. Santa, which very ancient portal is only opened in the Jubilee year, and then only by the primate himself. Obs. the details — the cornice columns and arched recesses, with Santiago in pil- grim garb, supported by his disciples, Atanasio and Theodoro. In the open Patio , in square niched compartments, are other sainted disciples, all in a row, some of whose heads have been cut off. This is the door by which pilgrims enter. On the E. side of the Quintana is the ch. dedicated to San Payo , Pelayo. The ground on which the cathedral is built is far from being level on this side, hence the flight of steps ; and here yet remains a circular portion of the first building. The fourth and last side opens to the N. on the picturesque Azabacheria, or Plaza de San Martin. The former term is derived from azabache , jet ( azzabach is the Persian schabah , signi- fying “small black beads,” or bead- rows), of which vast quantities of rosa- ries used to be made and sold to the pilgrims as they entered. The second name of this N. plaza, de San Martin, bears reference to the enormous Bene- dictine convent dedicated to that saint, founded July 26, 912, by Ordofio II. This ancient convent has been almost entirely modernised on an enormous scale ; the back has a fine garden, and commands noble views from its mag- nificent long corridors upstairs. The heavy modern Doric entrance was raised by Casas y Noboa, in 1738, and finished at the tasteless period of 1743. Obs. the handsome fountain with three falls and satyrs’ heads. The interior of this once most wealthy convent is commensurate with the ex- terior, as one corridor is 205 paces long. The library was superb, as the Benedictines were a learned order, and promoters of schools and antiquarian research. The chapel, now a parish ch., is in bad taste, with a heavy trunk-headed roof. In the Betablo , of vilest Churrigueresque, Santiago and San Martin ride together in a fricasee of gilt gingerbread. Behind it is the splendid Renaissance Coro. The pul- pits are composed of rich marbles : the circular sacristia is fine. The convent itself, since the suppression, has fallen away sadly, and has been used as a barrack, a granary, &c. ; it has now been restored to the Church. From the Azabacheria to the Plaza de la Consti- tucion there is communication by means of a low groined 12th-cent. gate- way, under the archbishop’s palace. Now enter the cathedral from the Azabacheria, first looking at the modern encasement, the Doric and Corinthian tiers, and heavy pediment, supported by caryatides of Moorish slaves, with Santiago above, dressed as a pilgrim, erected in 1756 by one Domingo Antonio Luis Monteagudo, a Galician, i.e. a Boeotian builder. The original fa$ade had been previously tampered with by one Sarela, a worthy who ought to have been cast into his namesake’s river hard by. Upon entering, the complete change in the character of the work is more than usually striking. The interior is purposely kept somewhat dark, to increase the effect of the illuminations at the high altar, thus rendering the image of the apostle the emphatic feature. The cathedral forms a beau- tiful Latin cross, of which the lateral chapels do not injure the general effect. The aisles are narrow in pro- portion to their height and length, the central being the highest. The light and elegant piers contrast with the enormous thickness of the outer walls. The triforium galleries are carried round the whole ch., W. end, and transepts. The whole detail of the design is extremely simple. The two original transept ends of the ancient cathedral are preserved: the new fronts built outside them add to the strange effect. The height of the interior, from the floor to the centre of the barrel vault of the nave, is about 70 ft. The dark side aisles, which almost look like corridors , are filled with confessional boxes, dedicated to different saints ; while on those destined for foreign pilgrims are inscribed the languages which the priest in them used to understand, when strangers came from all countries. The original windows Leon. Boute 55. — Cathedral . 261 Plan op Santiago de Compostella. A. Capilla Mayor. B. Coro. CC. Transepts. D. Nave. E E E. Portico de la Gloria. F. Steeple. G. Tower. H. Capilla de Alva. J. Plaza de los Plateros. K. Clock tower. L L. Passages. M. Plaza Quintana de los Muertos. N. Modern Chapel. O. Parroquia. P. Modern Chapel. Q. Plaza de San Mar tin. R. Plaza Mayor or Del Hospital. S. Cloisters. remain throughout the greater part of the ch. Most of the chapels remain. The most important feature of the Capilla Mayor, see Plan A, is the altar dedi- cated to the ancient image of Santiago ; two doors in the lower part give .access to the steps up which the pilgrims have passed from the very earliest times to embrace the Saint. The altar, of the 12th centy., described by Ambrosio de Morales in the 16th centy. (‘Yiaje Santo ^must have been a marvel of art. The present one was begun in 1565. The image of Santiago is Gothic, of stone, painted and gilt, but so covered with ornamentation, that the head alone is visible. The image is seated, and, according to the description given 262 Sect. III. Route 55. — Santiago : Cathedral . by Morales, be holds a book in the left hand and blesses with the right. It is placed in a fine silver shrine, work of the beginning of the last centy. He now holds in his left hand the bordon, or pilgrim's staff, with a gilt gourd or calabash fastened to it. The bordon , said to have been found in the Saint’s sepulchre, is placed on a bronze column 1 metre from the pave- ment, near the railing of the choir, opposite the pulpit of the Epistle. In the image’s rt. hand is a label inscribed “ Hie est corpus Divi Jacobi Apostoli et Hispaniarum Patroni.” Remark the singular hood worn by the image, the Esclavina , worn also by pilgrims ; this one is studded with precious stones. Mass can only be said before this image by bishops or canons of a dignity called Cardenales, of whom seven attend on grand occasions. The altar is then decorated with the splen- did silver custodia by Antonio de Arfe (1544) and the small gilt figure of Santiago, whose glory, aureola, is com- posed of rubies and emeralds. The greater part of the silver lamps were carried off in 1809 by the French. The light of the central lamp is de- frayed from a legacy left by the Gran Capitan Gonzalo de Cordova for that purpose. Under the cimborio, or noble cupola dome, occasionally hangs the large incensario, bota fumeiro , two yards high. It is supposed this un- usual size was required to fumigate the church during the feasts of the Saint when full of pilgrims. It is swung backwards and forwards by an iron chain, filling the crucero with perfumed wreaths. On each side of the reja of the high altar are two bronze ambones or pulpits. They are masterpieces of cinquecento art, by Juan Bautista Celma, 1563. The six exquisite gilt alto relievos, carved with mermaids, battles, and holy subjects, are worthy of attention. Near these pulpits there are ancient alms-boxes, limosneras , under Gothic statues. The Transept C C is the most picturesque spot of the interior of the cathedral; the archi- tectural lines are very good, and the decoration and general effect of the whole is very fine. The only object of interest in the Coro B is the silleria, which was well carved with holy subjects in 1606 by Juan Davila de Tuy. In the trascoro is venerated an image of Our Lady of Soledad, on an altar with a silver frontal. There are 18 chapels in this church. Interesting tombs may be seen in those of del Salvador, or Rey de Francia, and San Bartolome, in the apse. Obs. especially that of the Canonigo Castilla in San Bartolome, a beautiful example of Renaissance work. The sepulchres in the Chapel of the Esplritu Santo in the transept are also worth a visit, and some images, especially that of San Esteban, in the Corticela, next to this. The Gothic carvings in stone, in the Chapel of San Fernando, to the S., are interesting. The Chapel of San Jose is interesting; the plan is peculiar. It was probably begun and finished circa 1169-1175, and is situated under the W. portico of La Gloria : it is kept locked, but is shown to visitors on their asking to see it. Behind the Apostle’s image is a small room which contains what ch.- plate escaped the pillagers. Obs. two very ancient gilt pyxes, a Saviour seated under a Gothic niche with two angels, and some ewers and basins in the shape of scallops. Next visit the Relicario, near the chapel of San Fernando, in which are many exquisitely wrought shrines and goldsmith's work, containing relics. The most important of these is the Byzantine cross of Alonso III. ; it is very similar to the cross de los A7igeles at Oviedo, and made of wood covered over with platings of gold and filigree work, studded with precious stones and cameos. The figure on the cross is more modern in date. The inscription states that it was given by Don Alonso and Dona Jimena in the era 912, a.d. 874 : “ Hoc opus perfectum est in Era IX. et duodecimo. Hoc signo vincitur inimicus , hoc signo tuetur pius , hoc off erunt famuli Dei Adefonsus pr in- ceps et conjux.” The shrine in which the Santa Espina is preserved is an admirable specimen of Christian plate Leon. Route 55. — Cathedral . 263 of the 15th centy. Upon a finely worked silver foot is placed a stem sup- ported by angels carrying instruments of the Passion. The silver head, said to contain that of Santiago Alfeo, is covered with precious stones, and is work of the 14th centy. A gold chalice of San Rosendo, 15th centy., is also worthy of notice. There are a great number of small objects belonging to the church which are interesting. The Custodia by Antonio de Arfe, 1564, is very fine, although by no means so perfect as those at Toledo and Cordova. In this chapel are five sepulchral statues of royal personages, of great antiquity, e.g. Don Ramon, husband of IJrraca, era 1126; Fernandus II., 1226 ; Berenguela, 1187 ; Alonso IX., of Leon, 1268; and Juan de Castro, 1412. Obs. also the enamelled tombs of San Cucufato and San Fructuoso. The Tesoro , upstairs, has a fine arte - sonado roof. Here is the urna, the silver sarcophagus, with the star above, in which the Host is deposited on Good Friday, when it is placed in a beautiful viril, made in 1702 by Figueroa, of Salamanca. Among the few objects which still remain in the vestiary may be men- tioned a cope, embroidered with figures, some ecclesiastical vestments embroidered in pearls, the gift of Philip III., and a good collection of tapestries. Obs. also the Gallardete banner of the Turkish galley at the Battle of Lepanto, which was given to this ch. by Don John of Austria. It is hung from the roof of the goto on the festival of the Saint, and reaches to the ground. The flag of the galley of Don John is at the cathedral of Toledo. The chief glory of this ch. — in an architectural point of view — is its grand western entrance, fitly called el Portico de la Gloria, E E E, being un- doubtedly one of the most glorious achievements of Christian art. It is the most important representation of the Last Judgment which is known of the 12th centy., and was designed and executed by Maestro Mateo , circa 4 .d. 1168-1188. Consisting of 3 arches, I that in the centre opens into the nave, and those on either side into the aisles ; in the centre is La Gloria , the promi- nent feature of which is our Saviour — sculptured twice the size of life — seated with St. James (also seated) below him, and the other Evangelists to the rt. and 1., two of them having their emblematic beasts, and one his bird, reposing on their laps. Around them are angels worshipping. The archivolt has the sitting figures of the four-and-twenty elders arranged round its circumference : these figures have been much less injured than the rest of the doorway. In the arch to the 1., or N., are angels carrying souls to heaven ; other figures appear to come out of Purgatory ; in the centre of the arch are angels sounding the trumpet of the Last Judgment. In the door- way to the rt., or S., are represented the infernal regions, although in the centre there are figures of angels and souls corresponding to the other door- way. This subject is prolonged on the rt.-hand side to the immediate capital : these figures must be looked at with attention ; their treatment is full of phantasy. It must be remem- bered that this work is anterior by a century to Dante's great poem. Figures of Apostles and personages of the Old Testament support the arches ; they are admirably executed. The columns rest on a series of monsters, which appear to symbolise vice conquered by the saints above them. In the shaft which divides the central doorway, kneeling towards the interior, is the figure of the architect, Maestro Mateo , holding a band on which is inscribed the word Architectus. Among the shafts there are four of different mar- bles. The most important of these is the centre one, on which is carved in a most admirable manner the Tree of Jesse. Remains of colour are still visible on several of the figures. It is evident that the whole doorway was originally painted. In the centre doorway may be read an inscription stating that it was finished a.d. 1188 (era 1226). At the South Kensington Museum there is a complete cast of this admirable work, made at the ex- 264 Sect. III. Route 55. — Santiago : University . pense of the English Government by Brucciani in 1866.* Under the Portico de la Gloria there exists a large chapel or small Roma- nesqne ch. which must be visited. It is called, without foundation, La Cate- dral Vieja. Its plan is a Latin cross, with three groups of columns in the centre, which with their arches form two naves. Some of the carvings of the capitals are extremely interesting. It is supposed to be the first thing built by Master Matteo (circa 1168- 1175). The altar frontal is very re- markable. Obs. especially the inte- resting reliefs which occupy the place of the Betablo. One of the marble statues on the altar appears to be Roman. The Virgin on the side altar, and the Santiago opposite the entrance, are worthy of attention. The ceremonial by pilgrims to this shrine is after this wise : the newly-arrived ascends some steps be- hind the image, places his hands on the shoulders, and kisses the hood. This osculation is essential, and is called el fin del Bomaje , the end, the obj ect of the pilgrimage. The pilgrim next proceeds to one of the “con- fessourez,” and confesses ; then he is “assoyled,” communicates, and re- ceives his certificate, or, as it is called, his li compostella.” This is a printed Latin document, signed by the canon, “ Fabrics administrador,” which cer- tifies that he has complied with all the devotional ceremonies necessary to constitute a romero , a real pilgrim. This compostella was often deposited with the family title-deeds as a voucher of the visit, as otherwise lands under certain entails could not be inherited. The festival of St. James (25th July) is celebrated with especial solemnity whenever it falls upon a Sunday. The ceremonies of the offertory on this day and on the Epiphany are extremely various and full of interest, and are fully described in ‘ Fraser’s Magazine,’ August, 1864. * Mr. Street, in his ‘ Gothic Architecture of Spain,’ London, 1865, has engraved the portico as a whole, with the exquisite detail of its central shaft. In the travels of the Suabian Knight of Rozmittal many curious details are given of Santiago in the 15th centy. § 4. University, Convents, Old Houses. From the cathedral the traveller can visit the University, founded, 1532, by Archbishop Fonseca. It is much fre- quented : its library is a fine room and well provided with books, including several French works and * Cobbett’s Parliamentary Debates,’ in true Bri- tannic half-russia, contrasting with the vellums of Spain ! The Convent of San Francisco should also be visited ; its chapel, now used as a parroquia, is fine, and has a good roof. Obs. behind the altar a portrait of a 1 Monroy, a former benefactor. The other once splendid convents of Santiago are now in a deserted, half- ruined condition. The cloisters of the half-destroyed San Agustin deserve notice, and the square belfry of Santo Domingo. Among the parish churches, that of San Felix de Celorio is the work of Martin Paris , 1316, but it has been much modernised. In Las Ani- mas is some good painted sculpture, principally representing our Saviour’s Passion, by Prado , a local artist. In Santa Maria de Conjo, 1 m. out- side the town, may be seen a fine crucifix of natural size by Hernandez , 16th centy. Many of the facades of the old houses are interesting; several still possess remains of the 12th and 13th centuries. Santiago is the only capital in Spain which has changed so little that there is hardly any alteration in the plan of the town during the last two centuries. In the Platerias may be bought the picturesque and reasonable silver-gilt local jewellery worn by the peasants, and very suitable for presents. § 5. Promenades, Markets, Walks. The public walk, called El Gran Campo de Santa Susana is charming. The Paseo de Afuera is also a pleasant Leon. Rtes. 56 . — Coruna to Santiago — 57 . — Cape Finisterre . 265 lounge, from whence the best view of the W. front of the cathedral and the adjoining buildings is obtained. The artist and naturalist will of course go to the market held in a long, narrow, open shed, near the Convent of San Agustin, and there study natural history and costume. The women wear plaitless woollen dresses, which fall straight down and display the figure. In the height of summer they are clad in white or striped linen, which they throw over their heads for mantillas, exhibiting their dark sayas. The men wear full pantaloons, a la Turque , and a singular helmet - shaped montera (the mitra cristata of their forefathers) : in rainy weather they wear an over-cloak of straw thatch. Sunday, as is usual in Galicia, is the great market-day ; * after mass the peasants enjoy their dances and bagpipes, the Gaita Ga- llega , and play at single-stick. The visitor to Santiago may ascend the Monte Pedroso, some 2000 ft. high, from whence is obtained a panoramic view as extensive as it is beautiful. Walk up also to the Monte de Altamira, situated to the E. of the town : a noble view is hence obtained, looking over the quarries and Santa Clara. Diligences to Coruna, 3 or 4 daily. Diligences to Vigo (raily. in pro- gress) (Rte. 58). ROUTE 56. LA CORUNA TO SANTIAGO. 32 m. This excellent post-road is traversed by four diligences daily (in 6 horns) . The road leaves the city by one of * Consult ‘Monografia de Santiago,’ Anto. N. de Mosquera, 4to.,1850, the two fortified gateways. Obs. the windmills upon the hill, to the rt. 3J m. Palabea. The views of the via to the 1. are fine. 65 m. Carral. Pop. 4699. A pic- turesque little town, inhabited by an industrial population. 2 m. Herbes, situated in the beauti- ful valley de la Barcia. A little farther on is the Puente de Abelleira, which spans a trout-stream by one fine arch. 5 m. Leira. Inn : Parador de las Diligencias, the ‘‘ half-way house ” be- tween La Coruna and Santiago. 2f m. Ordenes. Pop. 6017. Leaving this village a bridge is crossed, and farther on another, over the rio Gindi- bon. 2J m. Santa Cruz de Montaos. 3 2 m. Sigueiro. Here, on the first Tuesday in the month, a considerable cattle and horse fair is held. m. Santiago de Compostella. (See Rte. 55.) ROUTE 57. SANTIAGO TO CAPE FINISTERRE BY CORCUBION. 39 m. On this picturesque riding excursion attend to the provend; take a local guide and some sort of introduction to Corcubion. The path from Santiago passes 9 m. Puente Maceira. 14 m. Buen Jesus. 10 m. Corcubion (TJ.S.A, Consular Agent : Dn. Enrique Villanueva. Pop. about 1767) is a poor fishingtownunder a slope of the Entorde, on a charming via; the port was defended by two now dismantled forts. La Nave and the noble Cape, El Cabo, which is seen in all its glory from El Pindo, rise 266 Sect. III. Boiite 58 . — Santiago to Vigo. grandly at this, the western end of the old world — the Promontorium Nerium. 6 m. Einisterre. Pop. 4090. This Land’s End was the district of the Arotebrse, Artabri, a word some fanci- ful Celtic etymologists interpret as Ar-ot-aber , a “ hanging over the sea.” This ironbound coast and fierce sea, delightful to poets and painters, but fatal to frail harks, is the fear of mari- ners. Here, Feb. 24, 1846, the Great Liverpool was lost on the shoals of Guros, 5 m. 1. from Corcubion. The natives plundered the wreck, and the passengers were pillaged by even the carabineros , the Spanish protective service, sent to guard them ( ‘ Times/ March 9, 1846).* On these waters, May 3, 1747, Anson took all the six line-of-battle ships and four armed Indiamen, which formed the combined East and West Indian French squadron under La Jonquiere. Then the captain of the Invincible , when delivering up his sword, said to Anson, “Vous avez vaincu V Invincible, et la Gloire (an- other of the prizes) vous suit.” Here, again, Nov. 4, 1805, Sir Rich- ard Strachan caught and captured the four runaways from Trafalgar, the Admiral, Dumanoir, the first to fly on the former occasion, being now the first to strike his flag. Here, before, on the previous July 22, Sir Robert Calder, with only 15 sail of the line, had attacked Ville- neuve commanding 21, and captured two ; a thick fog came on, which, ac- cording to M. Thiers, prevented the French victory. The English almost felt so limited a success to be a re- verse ; and • the gallant Calder was brought to a court-martial for the in- completeness of his victory. His de- fence, however, was unanswerable ; and Nelson, just to a brave man, like the Duke to Moore, manfully asserted, “ that he, with so small a force, might not have done so much.” * The readers of Borrow’s ‘ Bible in Spain ’ will remember his hair-breadth escape from being shot for Don Carlos, just as Lord Carnar- von was nearly put to death in the same district for Don Miguel. Mr. Borrow was luckily de- livered by the alcade of Corcubion, Buonaparte received the news of this naval triumph with infinite dis- content, as it entirely deranged his plan for the invasion of England, since Villeneuve was forced to sail south instead of north, and thus failed, in becoming master of the British Channel. Returning to Corcubion the eques- trian may thence make a circuit of 15 m. in an easterly direction to visit the Ch. of Nuestra Senora de la Barca, to which a romeria (or pilgrimage) is made on the 8th of September. In the immediate vicinity is the singular rocking- stone called La Barca. This Celtic structure is of enormous propor- tions : it lies near the bay of Camarinas and the village of Mujia. The anti- quarian is referred to Senor Saralegui’s work for a detailed description of this interesting locality.* ROUTE 58. SANTIAGO TO VIGO, BY CARRIL AND PONTEVEDRA. RAIL AND DILIGENCE. 56 m. The diligence must be taken at Carril for Redondela Stat. until the railway is terminated. Santiago Stat. (Rte. 55). This rly. skirts the road as far as El Padron, when it branches to the rt. 3 m. Casal Stat. 3 m. Osebe Stat. 3 m. Esclavitud Stat. The Church of Nuestra Senora de la Esclavitud, a ch. dedicated to the Virgin, whose grand festival is held on the 8th of Septem- * * Estudios sobre la Epoca Celtica en Galicia, por D. Leandro de Saralegui y Medina/ Ferro l, 1868, Leon. 267 Route 58.- — Padron — Carril. ber. It was formerly a sanctuary for every kind of criminals, who have testified their gratitude to their pa- troness by numerous votive offerings. These clerical asylums of crime (once so common) by which justice was so often defeated, although now shivered by the explosion of public opinion, were in times of violence a sort of rude equity, which even armed power re- spected. Higher up is the Pico Sacro, a conical hill of crystallized quartz ; its holy epithet is simply a translation of the old Gallican Mons Sacer de- scribed by Justin (xliv. 3) ; the coun- try, abounding in maize and fruit, up to San Juan de Coba is extremely picturesque. 3 m. Padron Stat. El Padron — el patron (the patron) — Pop. 9015, is built on the ancient Iria Flavia, a name still retained in the Colegiata de Santa Maria, which ranks as a cathedral next to that of Santiago de Compostella, being in fact of earlier foundation. This town is situated on the Sar, which soon flows into the Ulla. Easter Mon- day is the local holiday and cattle fair. El Padron, being the spot at which the body of Santiago landed itself, was formerly an important pil- grim city, to which the vomer os came after having first visited Compostella. Morales, ‘ Yiage/ p. 137, details their proceedings : first they visited the ch. of Santiago, kissed the image over the high altar, and then walked round and kissed the stone, the pedestal of a Roman statue, to which the self-navi- gated boat moored itself — a miracle the town bears on its shield for arms. They then ascended the Montana, to a hermitage built on the spot where St. J ames preached ; next they drank and performed their ablutions from a stream which gushes out beneath the altar ; and lastly, they ascended on their knees to the rocks which St. James pierced with his staff, in order to escape from the pursuing Gentiles; over two of the holes or agujeros the devout stretched their bodies, and those not over corpulent crept through. H m. Cesures Stat. Pop. 4906. Leaving El Padron, the Sar is crossed by a stone bridge, and the suburbs of Dodro and Lestrobe are passed ; soon afterwards the Ulla is crossed at the bridge, El Puente de Cesura , Pons Claris, which was built on Roman foundation, in 1161, by Maestro Mateo, for the passage of pilgrims from Por- tugal : the tide flows up to it and brings up small craft. 5J m. Catvira Stat. 5J m. Carril Stat. Inn: Fonda Nueva. Pop. 2678. British Vice-Consul: Dn. R. de Uriosto. U.S.A. Consular Agents : Don Luis Pon, and Dn. J. Acuna. Carril has an excellent harbour ca- pable of containing ships of 600 tons, and is one of the busiest ports of Spain. Not far is Caldas de Reyes (Oalidas), where are warm mineral baths (the season from July 1 to Sept. 30). Inn : Casa de Busto. The temperature of the colourless and tastless waters is about 32° Reaumur. Their effect in softening the skin is marvellous. The bath is of granite, with a partition. Thus about five men and five women can bathe and talk to each other at the same time. The flies are unbear- able. Caldas de Reyes is perhaps the worst paved town in Spain. [About 3 m. up the river are the Caldas de Cuntis, warm liydro-sulphuric baths, which also benefit the skin. The Establecimiento is well arranged : there is a Fonda in the first floor, and fine marble baths below. The season lasts from June 15 to October 1. Casas de Huespedes; the best are Yiuda de Barreiro and Amalia. About 7000 visitors attend yearly.] The diligence must be taken here for Redondela. The country continues to be rich. The peasantry have a truly Irish look ; their rude carts laden with maize, (and in make everything that a cart ought not to be), creep along to the music of drony bagpipes, or of creak- ing solid wheels. Crossing a ridge, the ancient walled town of Pontevedra (Pons vetus), with its long bridge, rises on a peninsular slope on the bank of its picturesque and piscatose via , 268 Sect. III. Route 58. — Pontevedra — Vigo . and the estuary of the Lerez. Before entering the town, obs. on rt. the ivy-clad ruins of the convent of Augustines, which adjoins the charm- ing Alameda , one of the most beautiful in Spain. 7 m. Pontevedra. Inn : Parador Nuevo in the Plaza. Pop. 20,140. This is a most picturesque arcaded old town, built of granite, and full of quaint costume. In the upper part is a modern church, which is seen from afar. The ruined old Palacio de los Churruchaos of the 13th century, with its battlements and tower, de- serves notice. This palatial fortress was taken from its former lords and ceded to the archbishops, as a penalty for these nobles having murdered the primate Don Suero de Toledo, by order of Pedro the Cruel. Notice the many armorial shields over the portals of old houses. The artist will sketch the arcaded Plaza de Tuecro, and obs. also the early Gothic in Sta. Clara, and the figures carved on the cornice near the W. entrance. Visit the Franciscan convent on the Plaza de la Herreria. Obs. in its chapel, to the 1. of the high altar, the tomb of the Admiral Payo Charino, 1304. On the 5th of October, the ancient ceremony of bless- ing the sea, to make it propitious to merchants, mariners, and fishermen, takes place at Marin, to the S. of the ria; the principal priest of the dis- trict goes out more than a league to sea, with the images and relics of saints collected from surrounding churches, and accompanied by several hundred gaily decorated boats. The Velada or Euada de la Eomeria de la Peregrina, Aug. 8, attracts a multitude of peasants.* [There is a direct route from Ponte- vedra to Orense, 52 m., by which Tuy is avoided. The grand Cistercian con- vent of Acibeiro, to the 1. after leaving Cerdedo (13 m.), and before crossing the ridge of hills, lies in its lovely valley near the source of the Lerez, under the heights of the wild wolf- * Consult the ‘ Historia de Pontevedra,* Claudio Gonzalez de Zuniga ; Pontevedra, 4to., 1846. infested Candan Sierra. The founder was Alonso VII. a.d. 1135 : the tombs of Pedro Martinez, and the Abbot Gonzalo still remain.] The road now passes through one continued garden of corn, maize, vines, and flax, with charming views of the ria of Vigo to the rt. Soon we cross the long narrow bridge of San Payo, famous for oysters. The lovely scenery continues to 17 m. The railway is joined at Eedondela Stat. (Pop. 11,724), which is placed in the centre of this truly fertile land: its climate is delicious, and it has been long famous in song for its pretty women and well-fed priests — “ El abad de Eedondela Come si la mejor cena.** The town, divided by its river, and connected by a bridge, stands on the lake-like ria of Vigo, which now opens to the S.W., and forms one of the finest bays in Europe. Deep and sheltered, it is navigable for vessels of 500 tons burden for 16 miles from the sea. It is secured from the fierce Atlantic by a natural breakwater, the isolated Cies, ciccas (the Cicae of Pliny). They are called also las Islas de Bayona.* There are passages into the ria out- side the Cies, and one between them, called la Porta, the gate. Here on a rocky islet, in an inner bay, is the Lazareto of Tambo, situated in the island of this name ; the accommoda- tion has been much improved there. It is the only one on the coast, where a ship coming from America or the West Indies must do quarantine. The fine scenery continues to 7J m. Vigo Stat. Inn : Hotel Continental, well situated. English spoken. 30 rs. a day. Fonda del Comercio in the centre of the town and overhanging the sea. * Bayona itself lies about 14 m. from Vigo, half-way to the mouth of the Mino. It is very ancient, was sacked, by the Normans, and is alluded to by Milton in * Eycidas “ Naman- co’s and Bayona’s hold.** Bay-on-a is said to signify the “ good bay.” Leon. 269 Route 58. — Vigo . Casino , in the Calle Imperial : in- troduction by a member. Evangelical Chapel . Theatre , in the Plaza de la Princesa de Asturias. Post-Office , close to the hotel : open from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. English Vice-Consul : Francisco Manuel Barcena, Esq., office 3 doors below the hotel. TJ.S.A. Consular Agent : Dn. C. Molina. Banker: Carreras. Vigo may now be reached from Madrid in 34 hrs. by Caceres (Rte. 74), Valencia de Alcantara, Coimbra, Oporto, and Tuy. Bail all the way except 8 kilo., including passage of the Mino by ferry until the bridge is finished. Vigo, Vico Spacorum (Pop. 13,168) sparkles on a bend of the bay ; this most ancient port was at first much injured by the establishment at El Ferrol. Now, however, its trade is in a flourishing condition : it is the point where the Peninsular steamers touch when going up and down the coast. They generally arrive here from Eng- land in four days. Vigo as a place of residence for invalids is unequalled on this coast. It lies in a bosom of beauty and plenty, favoured alike by the ele- ments, earth, air, and sea. It teems with flowers and fruit, with fish, corn, wine, and oil. Like La Coruna, it is one of the chief centres of the cattle- trade export to London. The town retains its old walls, its narrow and steep streets, its suburbs, craft, and costume delightful to the artist; visit its fish-market on Sa- turday: it is situated on the finely sanded strand a few minutes’ walk from the hotel. The fashionable promenade of Vigo is the Paseo de Circunvala- cion. The view of the bay is splendid from there. A new town has arisen on the sea coast with fine houses and well-drained streets. There is also a pleasant Alameda near the Puerta del Placer, and a good port, sheltered by the heights behind, which are crowned with the castles San Sebastian and del Castro. The view from the latter is superb. The modern church, un- finished and unadorned, is a simple architectural temple, with a double row of noble columns supporting the arched nave.* This port has often felt the English. Drake was here in 1585 and 1589. He set an example to the Duke of Ormond, Rooke, and Stanhope, who, returning from their failures at Bar- celona and Cadiz, heard that the French fleet and the Spanish Plate galleons had arrived ; the bullion was still on board, not having been landed in con- sequence of remonstrances from the selfish Cadiz authorities, whose port alone had the privilege to import silver ; thereupon the English, Oct. 22 (N.S.), with only 25 ships, sailed into the bay, wisely attacked instauter, and in spite of the batteries armed with 20,000 men, destroyed the enemy’s fleet in 2 hours, taking 6 French and 5 Spanish ships, and burning and sinking 12 of the former and 8 of the latter. Count Chateau Renaud, with liis French con- voys, fled in the middle of the action, leaving his Spanish allies in the lurch. The bulk of the treasure is said to have been cast into the sea, and has since been eagerly sought for, but never yet discovered, by numerous diving adventurers. The losses sustained at Vigo nearly ruined Philip V., as those at Cadiz had so sorely crippled Philip II. The place was again attacked by Lord Cobham, Oct. 11, 1719, and almost destroyed. Steam Communications. To London weekly, in John Hall’s steamers, fare 51. To Liverpool, in 4 days, at frequent intervals : to La Corufia, Bilbao, Sant- ander, Cadiz, and Malaga, once or twice a week. To Lisbon, in 2 lirs., almost every day. Railway planned to the port of Bouzas. * Consult ‘Description de Vigo/ Dn. Nicolas Taboada; Santiago, 1840. 270 Route 59 — Vigo to Orense. Sect. III. ROUTE 59. VIGO TO ORENSE, BY TUY. Rail open in 1881. 54 J m. Three trains daily. Vigo Stat. See preceding Rte. Redondela Stat. Pop. 11,724. El Porrino Stat. Pop. 7703. Tuy Stat. Inns: Fonda Nueva, tolerable. Tickets can be taken at this Hotel, and luggage registered for Por- tugal and Madrid.- Pop. 12,039. This once important frontier town is built upon the banks of the Mino — here a noble stream. It stands confronting the wall-encircled Portuguese town of Valenza. [A fine international Bridge is in construction which will connect in 1884 the Spanish and Portuguese rail- waylines ; at present the river is crossed in boats.] The climate is delicious, and the fertility of its vega unbounded. Tuy — Tude ad fines — was founded, se dice, by iEtolian Diomede, the son of Tydeus (Sil. Ital. iii. 367) ; here is said to have been discovered a Greek altar, and a Greek sculpture of some wrestlers. The Gothic king Witiza in 700 made Tuy his residence and court ; the town was destroyed by the Moors in 716, but the site was recovered (740) by Alonso el Catolico. Ordoiio I. rebuilt it in 915. The castellated Cathedral, begun in 1145, is suffragan to Santiago. The silleria and cloisters are fine. The tomb of the patron saint, San Telmo, is enclosed with gilt regas and arches, and hung with votive tablets : it was raised in 1579 by Bishop Diego de Avellaneda. San Telmo’ s friend Don Lucas de Tuy, the historian, commonly called El Tudense , lies buried near him :* ascend the tower for the magni- ficent view. The episcopal palace was in the Alcazar, but this and other de- * For his Life, and that of San Telmo, see Florez (‘ Esp. Sag.’ xxii. 108, and xxiii. 131 : also, ‘ Antigiiedad de Tuy,’ ‘ Prudencio de San- doval,’ duo., Braga, 1610. fences were much injured by the French invaders. Tuy may be made head-quarters by the angler and the artist. The best rivers are the Louro, the Tea, and the Avia. The salmon ( savalos ) and trout are abundant. The wines are excel- lent. In this happy corner of Galicia, the valleys, especially la Vega de Louro, with its oranges, rival Andalusia, and speak for the soil and sky of a land which Providence has so much blessed, and man so disregarded. (Railway from Tuj^ to Oporto and Madrid, see ‘ Indicador.’) Caldelas Stat. Salvatierra Stat. Pop. 9722. Las Nieves Stat. Arbo Stat. Pousa Stat. Ericira Stat. Eilgueira Stat. 28 m. Rivadavia Stat. Inn : Fonda de Vicente Abraldes. Pop. 4277. This picturesque irregularly built town is situated on the Avia, which flows down from its rich basin and fertilizes the wonderfully productive soil. Visit the ancient convent of Los Domiixicos, which was the palace of the kings of Galicia down to the time of Garcia, son of Fernando el Magno. The sweet hams prepared in this district, like those of Santiago, are excellent, and the wines — rich and port-like — are renowned. The tin mines near Rivadavia are no longer worked. Barbantes Stat. Orense Stat. No good Inn. Casa de Huespedes de Cuanda. Pop. 13,353. Direct communication by rail with Madrid, via Tuy, Oporto, Coimbra, and Valencia de Alcantara, see “ Indi- cador ” (Rte. 74). This ancient town — Aquae TJrentes (Warmsee) — was celebrated in ancient days for its warm baths. The springs are three in number, viz., la Burga de Arriba, la Burga de Abajo , and la Burga del Surtidero , the last of which is much impregnated with gas. Orense is the capital of its province, the see of a bishop, suffragan to Sant- Leon. lioute 59. — Orense : Cathedral — Excursion. 271 iago, and the residence of the local authorities. It was patronised by the Goths, and here the Suevi-Gothi first renounced Paganism. The Cathedral, dedicated to San Martin, was founded so early as 550 : the first edifice was restored by Alonso el Casto. The present Gothic central edifice was raised by Bishop Lorenzo in 1220 : its local patroness is Santa Euphemia —the well - speaking — her body was discovered by a shepherdess on the confines of Portugal. Obs. her silver-plated shrine, and those of San Facundo and San Primivo. Visit the Capilla del Cristo Crucificado, founded in 1567 by Bishop San Francisco Triccio, and observe its wonderful image, El Santo Cristo, which was brought in 1330 from a small church on Cape Finisterre. It is one of the 3 marvels of Orense. Obs. also the Capilla de San Juan Bautista, rebuilt in 1468 by the Conde de Benavente, in atonement for the ravages done to the cathedral during his family feuds with the rival house of Lemos. Notice the tomb of Quintana by Sola, and the portal el Paraiso, finely sculptured and enriched with figures of angels and saints. The antique cloisters were erected in 1204 by Bishop Ederonio : obs. the inscription. The Capilla de la Madre Maria was restored in 1722, and connected by the cloisters with the cathedral; the eight canons were called Cardenales , as at Santiago, and they alone did service before the high altar. The custom was recognised as “ immemorial ” by Innocent III., in 1209.* The ecclesiologist may look at the old circular towers of the Parro- quia de la Trinidad. In the former Jesuitas are some books and pictures of San Rosendo brought from Cela- . nova.f Visit now the third marvel of Orense, its Bridge, strikingly picturesque, and rising rather steeply 135 ft. above the * Consult for this cathedral, ‘ Noticias His- toricas,’ Juan Munoz de la Cueva, 4to., Mad., 1726 . f For this diocese, refer to Florez^‘Esp.Sag.,’ xvii.), and the useful ftiap by Cornide and Lopez, Mad., 1763. bed of the river Mino, so constructed on account of sudden inundations. It was built in 1230 by Bishop Lorenzo, and repaired in 1449 by Bishop Pedro de Silva, and is 1319 ft. long, the grand arch being some 156 ft. in span. Orense is good head-quarters for the angler. The best rivers in the vicinity are the Avia, Arenterio, Mino (higher up), and crossing it, the Sil, Cave, Nabea, Amoy a, and Limia. (1) Excursion from Orense. — An agreeable excursion can be made into the rich district called the Misto (a sort of neutral ground) lying on the Portuguese frontier ; the inhabitants are Spaniards or Portuguese as it suits them. The exact line of demarcation between the two kingdoms is now uncertain, for the ancient documents were burnt by Soult during his retreat. (2) Near Allariz, Pop. 8767, at Cela- nova (14 m. from Orense) is the once wealthy abbey of Benedictines, founded in 973 by San Rudesinto, or Rusendo. In the garden is one of the oldest chapels in Spain, supposed to be the work of Vivanus, and before 973. In the abbey church are the ancient se- pulchres of Ilduara and Adosinda, the mother and sister of the founder, who was buried in a curious sepulchre supported on 4 pillars, and constructed after the fashion of that of San Tor- cuato, one of the companions of Sant- iago. His body was deposited by the Christians, at the Moorish invasion, at Santa Comba, distant 16 m. : being near the frontier, some Portuguese carried it off, when a mist came on, and losing their way they brought it to Celanova, whose convent bells began forthwith to ring of their own accord. There are two cloisters: in that called El Procesional observe the curious columns ; in the other, more modern, notice the fountain and railing, El Poleiro : look at the sala capi- tular and brick mosaic pavement. The Doric Church has two sepa^ rate choirs: notice the carved door of communication, and the walnut silleria. The convent is now occupied 272 Sect. III. Rtes. 60, 61 . — Orense to Santiago . as a boys’ school under charge of priests — Padres Escolapios. Among the many neglected memorials of the dead was that inscribed with the well-known epitaph, a.d. 1324 ; — era 1362— “ Aquijaz Feijoo Escudeiro Bon Jidalgo y verdadeiro Gran cazador y monteiro ” We are now in the region of Lethe and the Limia, the real river of oblivion, which the soldiers of Junius Brutus hesitated to pass over. This rich dis- trict, the granary of Galicia, will alike interest the sportsman, the angler, and the naturalist. Visit the Laguna Antela. Permis- sion has been given to an English society to drain this Lagune. They have met hitherto with great opposition from the neighbouring villages, but the society is in hopes of obtaining help from the Spanish Government. The Laguna abounds with leeches, as be- comes the country of Sangrado. Among the aquatic birds notice the Gayo , which, like the parrot, is taught to imitate the sound of the human voice. ROUTE 60. ORENSE TO PONTEVEDRA. 53 m. A good diligence-road, with bad dili- gence service. It is preferable to go by rail from Orense to Redondela Stat., there take the diligence to Pontevedra, two hours. The road is excellent. To the 1. is the fine castle of Sotomayor which has been lately restored by its owner the Marquis of Vega Armijo. The bridge of San Payo is passed, famous for the battle between the French and Gallegos. The whole road is very picturesque. Orense Stat. See preceding Rte. Leaving Orense, the road crosses the Mino by a fine stone bridge. The whole route passes through a fruitful and well-wooded country. 3| m. Quintela. Pop. 2427. 8 m. Maside. Pop. 6377. 3f m. Carballino. Pop. 8318. 5. m. Pereiro. Pop. 6189. 8 m. Sontelo de Montes. 6 m. Cerdedo. Pop. 5447. Situated in a beautiful valley, watered by the trout-stream Lerez. 7 m. San Jorge de Sacos. Pop. 1200. The river Lerez also waters the fertile cornfields and vineyards which sur- round this little town. 5 m. Tenorio. Visit its ancient Bene- dictine convent. Obs. the tower called el Coto del Abad which is placed upon a neighbouring hill. The river Lerez is again crossed by a bridge of 12 arches, and we enter Pontevedra by its beautiful Paseo and the grand old ruin of the Augustin es, now ivy-clad and deserted, but made for the artist. 7 m. Pontevedra Stat. Pop. 20,140. (See Rte. 58.) ROUTE 61. ORENSE TO SANTIAGO. 59 m. A good post-road ; daily diligence in 11 hrs. Orense. (See Rte. 59.) The road is the same as in the pre- ceding Rte. as far as 3 m. Quintela. Pop. 2427. 5f m. Mandras. 5 m. Cea. Pop. 7193. Obs. its ancient Church of San Cristobal, also the picturesque little chapel on a hill adjoining the town, and the ruins of an old castle. Leon. Route 62 . — Orense to Zamora . 273 3 m. Piilor. Pop. 3788. The dis- trict around is uncultivated and wild. After passing the ranges at Pinor and Castrodozon,the road descends into the rich basin of the Ulla by Silleda, leav- ing to the rt. the conical hill el Pico Sacro. 6 m. Castrodozon. Pop. 2925. 4J m. La Gesta. 5 m. Lage. 2 m. Prado. A picturesque little hamlet of half-a-dozen houses. The river Deza (or Cira) is now crossed. 6^ m. Fojo. 5 m. Castro vite. 3 m. Puente Ulla, bridge over the Ulla of ancient and picturesque con- struction. 8 m. Susana. 3 m. Santiago. (See Rte. 55.) ROUTE 62. ORENSE TO ZAMORA. 131J m. A good post-road. Diligence daily. The road, leaving Orense, traverses a well-cultivated country. The villages of Sijalvo and Oalvos are passed, to 64 m. Pineira de Arcos. 8 m. Ginzo de Limia. Pop. 5417. An ancient town situated upon the Rio Ginzo, in the centre of a vast plain, called la Limia. 4 m. Avabides. 14 m. Trasmiras. Pop. 2923. 2 m. Villa del Rey. 5 m. Infesta, situated in a valley of bare and desolate appearance. 34 m. Pazos. 1 m. Verin (Pop. 4944), situated on the 1. bank of the Tamega (crossed by a fine bridge), with the hill and im- posing castle of Monterey rising op- [ 1 Spain , 1882.] posite. The valley district around abounds in fruit and wine ; this gra- nary of Galicia is in the bosom of beauty and discomfort. S. of this place are some neglected tin mines. [Near this hamlet is the old town of Monterey (Pop. 3774), with its pic- turesque castle and its trout -stream Tamega.] 7 m. San Cristobal. 1 m. Ventade las Barr eras. 2 m. Navallo. 6 m. Laza (Pop. 5018), a charmingly picturesque town, with the Sierra de Mamed rising to the N., situated in a valley watered by two streams which flow into the Tamega. 1 0 m. Canda. This town is placed in the Portillo which divides Leon from Galicia. 3 m. Lubian. Pop. 1524. Here the Sierra rises to the 1., and the frontier of Portugal (distant 6 m.) expands to the rt. Braganza (see Rte. 64) is dis- tant only 17 m. 10 m. La Puebla de Sanabria (Pop. 1240) is the chief place of its moun- tainous partido. This frontier town has some old walls and a castle placed upon an eminence. It is a good point from which to make excur- sions into the Vierzo. 13 m. Otero. Pop. 353. 1 m. Remesar. The whole of this district abounds in game. 2 m. Taboadela. 9 m. Asturianos. Pop. 1315. 64 m. Mombuey. Pop. 764. Posada, decent : good wine. This little town is situated in a valley at the base of a fine oak-clad hill. The rio Negro is now crossed. Obs., in a ch. situated upon this stream, the image of the virgin, called Nuestra Senora de Farragos (our Lady of the old clothes), so called because beggars, who are cured of diseases by her inter- vention, dedicate their votive rags and tatters to her shrine. 15 m. Monta Marta. Near here the beautiful Tera flows to the rt. Zamora. Pop. 318. Rte. 15. T 274 Btes. 64, 65 . — Zamora to Benavente . Sect. III. ROUTE 64. ZAMORA TO BRAGANZA, IN PORTUGAL. 56 m. This excursion must be made on horseback. From Zamora the road traverses a vast plain watered by the rivers Duero and Esla. The latter stream is crossed in a boat before reaching 7 m. Carbajales. Pop. 1339. Muga de Alba. Losacino. Pop. 767. 28 m. Alcanices (Pop. 972), situated in a fertile plain surrounded by hills on every side. A little distance from the town is the palace of the Marques of Alcanices. 7 m. Sejas de Aliste. 7 m. San Martin del Pedroso. This frontier village is placed upon the 1. bank of the river Manzanas, which here forms the boundary between the two kingdoms. The river is crossed in a boat. 7 m. Braganza. Inn: Estalagem, kept by A. Montanha, decent. Pop. 5495. This ancient city stands well upon the gentle eastern declivity of Traz os Montes, and on the river Fer- ven$a. Visit its castle, one of the most interesting feudal remains in the Peninsula. (For further particulars of this interesting town and the Rtes. thence into Portugal, see Murray’s Handbook for Portugal , Rte. 37.) ROUTE 65. ZAMORA TO BENAVENTE. 36 m. Diligence service three times a week. Leaving Zamora, the road passes through one of the finest wheat-pro- ducing districts in Spain : once belong- ing to the military order of Santiago. The villages of Cubillos and Pedra- hita, Pop. 629, are passed to 17 m. Riego. Pop. 570. 3 m. La Granja. Pop. 698. 6J m. Santo Venia. 3 m. Villabeza. 1 m. Barcial. Pop. 207. 3 m. Castrogonzalo. Pop. 1020. Here the rio Esla is crossed by a Roman bridge of 19 arches. This bridge was the scene of one of the first encounters between British and French cavalry during Moore’s retreat. Moore blew up the three central arches, which are now replaced by wooden beams. 2Jm. Benavente. Pop. 4051. Inns: Posada de Cuesta : Posada de Zidon, both of them outside the Puerta de la Soledad. (See Rte. 21.) IntrocL ( 275 ) SECTION IV. ESTREMADURA. La Provincia de Estremadura was so called (like Etruria — the 4'repa opta) from being the Extrema Ora , the last and extreme conquest of Alonso IX., made in 1228. It lies to the W. of the Castiles, on the Portuguese frontier. The average length is some 190 miles, and breadth 90. The Tagus and Guadiana flow E. and W. ; noble rivers, which might be rendered navigable, and would be made so in any other country. Under the Eomans and Moors this province was both a granary and a garden, and it is still called by the gipsies Chin del Manro , “ the land of corn/* The want of population has almost converted this Arabia Felix into a desert, but the railways which have been opened in 1881, which pass through the most fertile parts of the province, enable visitors to go in 21 J hours from Madrid to Lisbon, and the great impetus produced by the mines of Almaden and Caceres, will undoubtedly shortly bring Estremadura on a level with other provinces of Spain. At present it is sadly backward. Except in the immediate vicinity of towns, so few labourers appear, that production, be it of weed or grain, seems rather the caprice or bounty of Nature than the work of man ; meantime the lonely deliesas y despoblados are absolute preserves for the naturalist and sportsman : everything displays the exuberant vigour of the sun, and a soil teeming with life and food, and neglected, as it were, out of pure abundance. The swampy banks of the Guadiana offer good wild-fowl shooting in winter, but in summer are infected with fever and agues, mosquitoes, and other light militia of the air and earth. In proportion as the animal creature abounds, man is rare, and the scanty population of Estremadura ranges at about 725,984. The cities are few and dull : the roads are made by sheep, not men. The inns are mere stables for beasts. The Estremenos live in little intercommunication with the rest of mankind. They are simple, indolent, kind-hearted, and courteous. The province has produced two historical characters, Pizarro and Cortes, who were swineherds of Trujillo and Medellin. These truly great men — called for and created by great times — sallied forth to conquer and Christianise a new world ; and thousands of their paisanos, or fellow-countrymen, allured by their success and by visions of red gold, followed their example. Bad government, civil and religious, has been a great cause of the abomination of desolation which is everywhere visible inEstremadura; but a peculiar curse was superadded in the mesta or migratory system of Merino sheep, which are the true flocks of the nomad Bedouin. The origin of this system is stated to have been after this wise : when the Spaniards in the thirteenth century expelled from these parts the industrious Moors, they razed the cities and razzia’d the country, while those inhabitants who were not massacred were driven away to die in slavery : thus the conquerors made a solitude, calling it pacification. Vast tracts previously in cultivation were then abandoned, and nature, here prolific, soon obliterating the furrows of men, gave it up to the wild birds and beasts. Such was the talas , a true Moorish word talah, “ death, extermination.” Only a portion of the country was recultivated by the lazy soldier conquerors, and the new population, scanty as it was, was almost swept away by a plague in 1348, 276 Estremadura . Sect. IY. after which fifty whole districts were left unclaimed. These were termed Valdios — from Baledo , uncultivated — whence the Spanish term de valde. These unclaimed pasturages attracted the highland shepherds of Leon and the Castiles, who drove down their flocks to them, as to a milder winter quarter, returning to their cool hills on the approach of scorching summer. Hence by degrees a prescriptive right of agistment was claimed over these commons , and the districts were retazados , or set apart and apportioned. This system, suggested naturally by the climate and country, like that of the trattari in the Abruzzi which existed in the time of the Romans, is of remote antiquity. As infinite disputes arose between the wandering shepherd and the fixed cultivator, a compromise was effected in 1526, whereby the privileges of a few sheep-proprietors, like the hunting laws of our Norman tyrants, prevailed. The peculiar jurisdiction, the Consejo de la Mesta, one coeval with the monarchy, was finally suppressed in 1 834. The term Merino is said to be derived from Marino — -quasi ultra-marine — because the original breed of sheep was imported by sea from England, under our Henry II., while others derive it from Imri, the far-famed flocks of Palestine. The sheep, Ganado (Arabice Ganam , cattle), were called trashu - mantes, from the ground they go over. These flocks were generally divided into detachments, Cabanas (Arabice a tent), of about 10,000 each. Their highland summer quarters, Agostaderos, were quitted about October for their Invernadores, or winter ones, in the warm plains. Each Cabana was managed by a Mayoral , a conductor — the Italian fattore — who had under him 50 shep- herds and 50 huge dogs. Some flocks travelled more than 150 leagues, per- forming from 2 to 4 leagues a day, and occupying 40 days in the journey. At the u folding star of eve,” they were penned in with rope nettings of esparto , and a most picturesque Oriental “ watching of flocks by night ” took place. By the laws of the Mesta, a Canada de Faso , or free sheep-walk 90 paces wide, was left on each side of the highway, which entirely prevented enclosure and good husbandry. The animals soon knew their quarters, and returned year after year of their own accord to the same localities. When they first arrived at their ground, salt was placed on flat stones at the rate of a fanega, or about a cwt., for every 100 sheep. This they licked eagerly, and it improved their appetites. They were shorn, trasquilados , about May : the shearing, el Esquilmo , is an epoch of primitive and Oriental festivities. The sheep which migrated had the finest fleece ; those that remained at home produced a coarser wool, a lana basta. The rams give the most ; three fleeces average 25 lbs. The names of the animals, numerous as those of Irish pigs, varied with the age : thus, the lambs are called Corderos ; the two-year-olds, Borros ; the three, Andruscos ; the four, Tras-andruscos. Their ages are ascertained by the number of teeth or Palas ; at the fifth year they are called Cerrados, and after that Reviejos , and useless. The rams lose their teeth at eight years, and the ewes at five. In September the flocks were Almagrados , or daubed with a red earth from Almazarron, which conduced to the fineness of the wool. In keeping up stock great care is taken in selecting rams with round bellies, and white soft wool, and the clean-faced ewes, las Calvitas, are preferred. The ewes are put to the rams, Morruecos (possibly so called from having been imported from Morocco — Marrehosh ), about the end of June. They lamb in their winter quarters. The sheep are always on the move, as they seek grass, which is scarce, and will not touch thyme, which is abundant. The shepherds are mere brutes, like the animals with whom they live, and in whose skins they are clothed. They never dwell in cities, seldom marry, and thus in nowise contribute to population, which is so much wanted, or to any arts that refine, which are so scarce. When not asleep or eating they stand still, fixed and silent, leaning on their episcopal crooks, and only good for an artist’s foreground or a poet’s stanza ; IntrocL Estremadura. 277 and in truth they have a most patriarchal appearance, and form the very tvpe of a St. John in the Wilderness or in the National Gallery. They know every one of their sheep, although lambs, like babies, appear all alike except to a nurse s eye, and the sheep know them : all this is very Oriental.* Second only to the sheep are the swine of Estremadura, for this province is a porcine Paradise, and the Hampshire of Spain ; and here again Nature lends her aid, as vast districts are covered with woods of oak and cork trees. The Jamones , hams, the bacon, Tocino (Arabice, Tachim, fat), and the sausages of Estremadura have always and deservedly been celebrated. They were Tripvcu diaQavds of classical eulogy. This is the Perna by which Horace, too, was restored (ii. S. 4, 61); but Anacreon, like a vinous Greek, preferred for inspira- tion the contents of the pig-skin to the pig. Lope de Vega, according to his biographer Montalvan, never could write poetry unless inspired by a rasher. * Toda es cosci vil , said he, adonde falta un pernilP The Matanza or pig - slaughter takes place about the 10th and 11th of November at their particular saint’s day, el San Andres , for d cada puerco su San Martin , and they have then been fattened with the sweet acorn, Bellota (Arabice, Bellota, Bellot). Belot, Belotin, is the Scriptural term both for the tree and the acorns, and the latter, with water, formed the primitive dietary of the poor Iberians (Tibullus ii. 3, 71). Bread was also made out of them when dry and ground (Strabo iii. 223). When fresh they were served at dinner in the second course (Pliny, N. H. xvi. 5). Sancho Panzas wife was therefore quite classical when she sent some to the duchess, and they furnished the text to Don Quijote’s charming discourse on the golden age, and joys of a pastoral life. Now the chief con- sumers are the juvenile Estremians and the pigs ; the latter are turned out in legions from the villages, which more correctly may be termed coalitions of pigsties ; they return from the woods at night— glande sues lseti redeunt — and of their own accord, like the cattle of Juno (Liyy xxiv. 3). On entering the hamlet, all set off at a full gallop, like a legion possessed by devils, in a handicap for home, into which each single pig tons, never making a mistake. These homesick droves will really sometimes in their runs carry an unwary stranger otf his legs, as befell Don Quijote (ii. 68) when swept away by the piara gruhidora. The bacon of Catholic Spain is most orthodox : abhorred alike by Jew and Infidel, it has ever been the test of a true Christian. The Spaniards, however, although tremendous consumers of the pig, whether in the salted form or from the skin, have to the full the Oriental abhorrence of the unclean animal in the abstract Muy puerco (like the Moslem Haluf) is their last expression for all that is most dirty or disgusting, and is never forgiven, if applied to woman. It is equivalent to vacca (or cow) of the Italians, or to the canine feminine com- pliment bandied among our fair sex at Billingsgate, nor does the epithet imply moral purity or chastity. The geology and botany of Estremadura are little known : insects and wild animals breed securely in the montes dehesas y jar ales, where no entomologist or sportsman destroys them. The locust, langosta , and all the tuneful tribe of cicalas , enliven the solitudes with their rejoicings at the heat, insomuch, that the phrase indicative of their chirping, canta la cliicliarra , whose song serves but to make the silence heard, is synonymous with our expression the “ dog-days.” Here the locust is indigenous. The instinct of the female is marvellous, for only in ground that the plough has never touched does she deposit her egg. Thanks to the efforts of Don Cecilio Lora, the member for Badajoz, agricultural machinery, made on purpose to suit the hard stony soil, has lately been introduced with success in Estremadura. This gentleman has established also meteorological stations in different localities of the province. * For the Mesta, consult ‘ Libro de las Leyes del Consejo de la Mesta,’ folio, Madrid, 1639 ; also Bowles, ‘ Sobre el Ganado Merino,’ p. 501 ; and the ‘ Vioje’ of Ponz (let. 7). 278 Estremadura. Sect. IV. At Fregenal a telephone has been established, which will shortly connect the whole district. In well-farmed lands your feet may brush the growing corn for many a mile, and, after all that you have heard of the pest of locusts, you pause in astonishment that not a single one whirs up ! Suddenly, the corn is exchanged for waste land, and lo ! soon as your foot brushes the wiry bent, the air, for about 2 to 3 ft. from the ground, is black with whirring, leaping, bustling locusts. In April and early May they are in the jumping stage, and have barely left the original spot of earth where they were hatched ; they are then small, brown, wingless, and barely measure a quarter of an inch. This is the time for reaping the locust , and so saving the cereal crops, and annually the Spanish Government tells off so many regiments of infantry to destroy the locusts. The scene is a busy one. Imagine 30 or 40 labourers digging out shallow trenches transversely across many a field, while 400 or 500 red-breeched Spanish infantrymen, with boughs, brooms, cloths, besoms, &c., are marching on in a steady line, to all appearance flogging mother earth most cruelly. Slaughtering on all sides these springing insect hordes as they go, the soldiers leave them lying, a brown coating semi-dead, upon the earth, and labourers or soldiers follow, sweeping the animals into the trenches. When it is said that these animals are destroyed in such numbers as to be paid for and estimated by arrobas , i.e., weights of 25J lbs. avoirdupois, the extent of the plague will be estimated ! There are three ways of destroying the locust. (1) By sweeping them up at early dawn, when they are semi-torpid, and then burning the heap. (2) By sweeping them alive into trenches, and covering them in. (3) In the way above described, viz., flogging them to death with boughs. During the great locust plagues in 1876 to 1877, from 8000 to 12,000 soldiers were employed in Spain each spring, in April and May, in destroying the locust ; each man receives Is. 8d. per diem, and a dram in the morning. The locust passes its existence in three stages ; the egg, the cahutOy and the winged stage. In June they fly. The exact amount of locusts in the springing stage, gathered in the neighbourhood of Linares alone between the 2nd and 5th of May , 1877, amounted to 3374 arrobas! ! It is duly entered in the local papers as follows : — “ Mala cosecha . — Del 3 al 4 del corriente se recogieron en Linares tres mil trescientas setenta y cuatro arrobas de langosta.” A “ garden of Eden lies before them, and behind them a desolate wilderness.” These insects destroy more even than they consume ; sparing no herb except the red tomato. The Spaniards on their part will not eat the locust in retaliation, which the Moors do, especially the female with eggs, either pickled or boiled in salt water. This is an old Arab delicacy, and was accounted among the Jews (Levit. xi. 22) as a “clean meat/’ a sort of whitebait. The taste is something like bad shrimps. The pigs of Estremadura eat them. Birds of prey of all kinds abound ; and in the summer flights of turtle-doves come over from Barbary to breed, and coo about in pairs, images of connubial felicity. They are the doves of the West, who brought ambrosia to Jupiter (Ov. M. 63), and who retired to Africa to visit the temple of Yenus. No man who has any poetry in his soul will make a pie of these pretty pigeons. Among other birds of rich colour may be cited the blue pie {Pica cuanea\ Mohiho ; the bee-eater ( Meriops apiaster\ Abejaruco; and the hoopoe ( TJpupa ), Abubilla. The entomology of Estremadura is equally endless and uninvestigated; the heavens and earth teem with the minute creation, the balmy air resounds with the buzzing hum of multitudinous insects, which career about on their business of love or food without settlements or kitchens ; happy in the fine weather, the joy of their tiny souls and short-lived pleasant existence. Estremadura. Route 70 . — Madrid to Badajoz . 279 ROUTES. ROUTE PAGE 70 Madrid to Badajoz, by Ciudad Real, Almaden, and Merida. Rail ----- 279 71 Badajoz to Lisbon, by Elvas, Crato, Abrantes, and Santa- rem. Rail - 287 72 Badajoz to Olivenza. Dili- gence. Road - 288 73 Badajoz to Seville, by La Al- buera and El Ronquillo - 289 74 Madrid to Lisbon, by Naval- moral, Plasencia. Excursions ROUTE 70. MADRID TO BADAJOZ, BY CIUDAD REAL, ALMADEN, AND MERIDA. 372 m. 21 hours. For description of route as far as Manzanares, see Rte. 85. 123 m. Manzanares Stat. Pop. 8963. The surrounding plain is clothed with vineyards and olive-trees. The whole of this part of Spain is watered by means of the norms constructed by the Moors. Change carriages here for Ciudad Real. 13 m. Baimiel Stat. Pop. 9671. This is one of the most important towns of La Mancha : it is placed in the centre of thecampo deCalatrava, one of the best wheat-producing districts in Spain. To the 1. is Bolanos w r ith its old castle. 13^ m. Almagro Stat. Pop. 8524. Here is one of the convents belonging to the military order of Calatrava. Obs. its staircase and cloisters. The Paseo de la Glorieta is a pleasant pro- menade. Numerous lace factories sur- round the town, employing more than 9000 hands. Excellent black lace is made here, which, although inferior in quality, is far more reasonable than at Barcelona ; also white coarse torchon lace in large quantities. ROUTE PAGE to Alcantara, Yuste, Trujillo and Caceres, Vicente de Al- cantara, and Oporto - - 291 77 Plasencia to Ciudad Rodrigo, by Abadia and Batuecas. Horseback - 298 78 Merida to Trujillo - - - 299 79 Merida to Seville, by Zafra and Llerena. Horseback - - 300 80 Trujillo to Logrosan and Gua- dalupe. Diligence-road - 301 11J m. Miguelturra Stat. Pop. 6352. 2J m. Ciudad Real Stat. (Buffet.) Pop. 13,277. Inn: Fonda de Lorenzo, Calle de la Paloma ; Fonda Mira el Cielo. Casa de Huespedes, Casa de Ramona, Calle de Tintoreros. Charge 13 r. per day. Cafe de la Perla, near the Plaza del Pilar. Casino , in the Calle de Carre- teros. Visitors admitted without an introduction. Plaza de Toros. Fights in the season. Instituto, with an excellent labora- tory and botanical garden. This royal city is one of the poorest and dullest in Spain, and one of the most atrasado , although Cervantes called it “ imperial and the seat of the god of smiles/’ It was built by Alonso el Sabio near the banks of the Guadiana, and was entitled Beal by Juan II. in 1420 ; portions of its former walls and towers remain. Here Fer- dinand and Isabel organised la Her - mandad , a mounted brotherhood, a guardia civil , to protect the country- roads. Th.e city is under the patron- age of la Virgen del Prado. Visit el Hospital, a noble pile founded by Car- dinal Lorenzana. After having been turned into a barrack during the French invasion, it has been restored to its original use. Obs. also the ch. of the Colegiata, in style Gothic ; its very large nave, its retablo sculp- tured with subjects from the Passion 280 Route 70. — Almaden. Sect. IY. by G-. de Merlo, in 1616, and its good coro, deserve notice. The Puerta de Toledo is a curious semi-Moresque gateway. After leaving this stat. the rly. crosses (6 m.) the river Javalon by an iron bridge. 10 m. Canada Stat. Pop. 409. 6 m. Apeadero Stat. 5J m. Argamasilla Stat. Pop. 2579. 7 m. Puertollano Stat. Pop. 3540. Here is a thermal establishment sup- plied with excellent carbonic acid waters, most efficacious for disorders of the stomach. In the carboniferous valley of Puer- tollano coal has been found 2 metres deep. The valleys of Belmez and Puer- tollano lie in the same direction. 11m. Veredas Stat. The lead-mines of Horcajo, where silver has been found in thin filaments, may be approached by Puerto de Yeredas to the 1. of the station. 6J m. Caracollera Stat. 16 i m. Almadenejos Stat. Pop. 883. Change for the mines of Almaden. Here we are in the centre of the vast quicksilver-mines. 8i m. Almaden Stat. Pop. 7448. Inn : Posada de Domingo, indifferent. “ Almaden del Azogue ” (two Arabic words which signify “ the mine of quicksilver ” ) is built on the confines of La Mancha, Estremadura, and An- dalucia. The Sisapona Cetobrix of Pliny (N. H. xxxiii. 7) was somewhere in this locality. The mine of quick- silver is apparently inexhaustible, be- coming richer in proportion as the shafts deepen. The vein of cinnabar, about 25 feet thick, traverses rocks of quartz and slate, and runs towards Almadenejos. Virgin quicksilver occurs also in pyrites and horns tein, and in a greyish conglomerate called here Fray- lesca, from the colour of a monk’s frock. Generally the mercury of Almaden is not found in veins, but seems to have impregnated three vertical strata of a quartzose sandstone, associated to slates rather carbonaceous. About 4000 men are thus engaged during the winter, the heat and want of ventilation ren- dering the mercurial exhalations dan- gerous in summer. The gangs work day and night, about 6 hours at a time, and hew the hard rock almost naked. There are three veins, called after the saints, Nicolas, Francisco, and Diego ; the adit lies outside the town; the descent to the 9th storey is by cages (on the three shafts S. Teodoro, S . Miguel, and S. Aquilino ; the deepest of the three, S. Teodoro, is said to be 1140 feet, and reaches the 11th level. The rocks are called profundidades, the shafts pozos , the galleries canas y ramales — they extend right under the town : hence the cracks in the parish church). The deepest shaft is said to be 1000 feet. The mineral is raised by steam-engines of the newest in- vention. English engineers will look with interest at a machine made by James Watt, 1799, for draining the mines, which is no longer used. The arched stone galleries are superb ; the furnaces of the smelting-ovens, in which the ore is sublimed, are heated with sweet-smelling brezo. The men thus employed are much more healthy than the miners, who suffer from sali- vation and paralysis. The mercury is distilled by three processes ; either by that used at Idria, or from certain ovens or B nitrones , Homos de Bever - hero , invented by Juan Alonso de Bustamante, which is the best ; that of a third process is employed, rever- beratory furnaces. The quantity of mercury now ob- tained is enormous. The Fuggers only extracted 4500 frascos annually ; now between 42,000 and 48,000 are pro- cured. Almaden produces some 250,000Z. a year, and a profit to the government of 160,000L — one of the few real sources of direct income to the state. The quicksilver has always been a royal monopoly. The management latterly, since the pecuniary importance has increased, has been given to a gefe, a brigadier of scientific attainments, and an excellent practical school of mines has been established, at which mining engineers are forced to Estremadura, 'Route 70. — Belalcazar — Merida. 281 attend.* Walk to the Glorieta, at the junction of three roads, and also to the Retamar. 13J m. Belalcazar Stat. Pop. 6314. This ancient fortified place is situated some distance to the S. of the rly. It stands in the midst of a well-watered plain. Its former magnificent palatial fortress, Bello Alcazar, built in 1445, by Gutierre Sotomayor, was one of the grandest in Spain. It has since been used as a quarry by the Moors. The Pozo del pilar is a fine work. The Zujar is now crossed by an iron bridge. 9i m. Cabeza del Buey Stat. Pop. 7322. 8| m. El Castillo de Almorchon Stat. (Buffet.) Obs. the old Moorish ruin near the town. A little distance to the rt. is the Hermitage of Nuestra Senora de Belen, formerly belonging to the Templars. [ Railway to Belmez — change car- riages — 1 train daily, 8 hrs. Almorchon to Belmez, 39 m. See * Indicador.’ Hi m. Zujar Stat. 13 m. Valsequillo Stat. Pop. 1172. 10 m. Penarroya Stat. 4i m. Belmez Stat. Pop. 6794.] 14i m. Castuera Stat. Pop. 6802. This is the chief town of la Serena, one of the old districts which formed part of the ancient province of Estre- madura. This district was formerly encircled with 7 fortified strongholds, placed at equidistances one from the other, in the form of a semicircle about 52 m. in extent. These strong- holds were called Los siete Castillos de la Serena. Apeadero Stat. Campanario Stat. 17i m. Magacela Stat. Pop. 1340. This is one of the 7 strongholds men- tioned above. The ruins of the fort crown the hill around which the town is built. 5| m. Villanueva de la Serena Stat. Pop. 10,627. The neighbouring huerta produces excellent fruit and a dry port-like wine. * For all details consult ‘Minas de Almade/ Casiano Prado ; the * Apuntes/ by J. E. de Bayo ; and ditto by Lucas de Alduna. 4 m. Don Benito Stat. Pop. 15,003. This charmingly situated town sup- plies Madrid with water-melons, and other fruit. [Logrosan with its phos- phate of lime deposits (12 m.), and the convent of Guadalupe, may be visited from this point. See Rte. 80.] The Ortega is crossed by an iron bridge. 3J m. Mengabril (Pop. 362) and Medellin Stat. Pop. 1199. This was one of the most flourishing towns in Estremadura before Victor sacked it, March 29th, 1809. Now it is wretched and decayed. The view from its ruined castle is most extensive : below flows the Guadiana, which is crossed by a bridge built in 1636. The re- mains of a Roman one are visible. At Medellin Hernando Cortes was born, 1485. Outside the town are traces of two Roman roads, the one leading W. in the direction of Merida, the other S.W. in the direction of Guarena. Leaving Medellin, Pop. 1199, the rly. runs parallel to the Guadiana, crossing the Guadalmez on an iron bridge. 12 m. Guarena Stat. Pop. 5459. 3 m. Villagonzalo Stat. Pop. 1542, The Guadiana is now crossed by a fine bridge supported by 11 piers. Apeadero de la Zarza Stat. 3J m. Don Alvaro Stat. This little village (Pop. 887) nestles in the midst of its olives and vines at the bottom of a valley, through which the Guadiana winds in horseshoe shape. 8 m. Merida Stat. (Buffet). Inns : Casas de Huespedes ; Joaquin Pallero, near the Plaza de Sta.' Maria ; Diego Segura, Santa Olay a, 22. Pop. 6191. Merida — Emerita Augusta — was founded b.c. 23, by the Legate Publius Carisius. The city became the capital of Lusitania. 36 different coins were struck here (Cean Ber.‘S.’ 393; Florez, 4 Med.’ i. 384). The common reverse is a u turreted gate,” with the words “ Augusta Emerita ” as an inscription, which constitute the city arms. This unique city is the Borne of Spain, in 282 'Route 7 0. — Merida , Sect. IY. some points rivalling tlie eternal city itself; stupendous monuments of an- tiquity meet the eye at every step. Its splendour, as existing down to the 4tli cent., is described by Prudentius(Perio iii. 3, 186), in his hymn on the death the patroness Eulalia — not to he con- founded with her namesake the tutelar of Barcelona ; the Eulalia of Merida was born here in 292, and was one of the earliest female martyrs of Spain. Although put to death when quite a child, she is said to have performed miracles in after years worthy of a grown-up saint, for San Isidoro (Chron. iEra 491) relates that Theodoricus the Goth was deterred from plundering her city, from his fears that she might treat him as Ceres did the troop of Alexander at Miletus. Merida rises on the rt. bank of the Guadiana, which is crossed by a Roman bridge of 81 arches, 2675 feet long, 26 feet broad, and 3,3 feet above the level of the bed of the river ; of which unfortunately some arches have been destroyed during the inundations of Jan. 1877 ; it is indeed a bridge and worthy of its builder — Trajan, a true Pontifex Maximus. From its long and flat proportions, it presents somewhat the appearance of a causeway. It was repaired by Sala, a Gothic Duke of Toledo, in 686, at the request of Bishop Zenon. Again, in 1610, Philip III. caused it to be strengthened and partly rebuilt (see his inscription in the portico). It is constructed of granite with bossage work, almohadi- llado , or “ pillowed.” Some of its arches were destroyed, April, 1812, during the siege of Badajoz, in order to impede Marmont’s advance. Here in 1808 a gallant band of 800 French kept at bay the entire Spanish forces com- manded by Cuesta, for a month, al- though the river was fordable. On an island in the river-bed up stream, is a Roman dyke called el taja- mar: it is built of massive masonry, and was erected to protect the arches against inundations. The Roman and Moorish Alcazar towers proudly with its palm-tree over the bank, as seen from this point. Recrossing the bridge, to the rt. is the castle, built by the Romans, and added to by the Moors ; afterwards it became the Bishop’s palace, then it was occupied by the Knights Templars — whence its present name el Conventual. At the suppression of the Templars it was granted to the order of Santiago, whose Provisor resided here. There now only remains a court of granite pillars, a square tank, a descent to some ancient baths, and the vestiges of a former temple, the rest of the colossal pile having been gutted by the French. A gateway near the river has a marble tablet with an Arabic inscrip- tion. The Arch of Santiago, built in the town by Trajan, is now a mere shell, having been stripped of its marble casing by the invaders. It was of vast size, being 44 feet in height. Near the arch is the half-Roman, half-Moorish palace formerly belonging to the Duque de la Roca, a diplomate of the reign of Philip IY., and the author of a poor poem, 4 La Conquista de Sevilla.’ The house is quite a Museum, and contains remains of architecture of every kind, Roman- esque, Moorish, and Gothic. The entrance doorway is Gothic. Obs. the granite blocks in the tower, and the Roman portions now degraded into a stable. The house belonging to the Conde de los Corvos was constructed out of a temple dedicated to Diana : it was peripteral, with fluted granite pillars and Corinthian capitals. There is a beautiful plateresque balcony in this house. The best view is from the garden. The Forum, the area and some shafts of which only remain, was near the convent of Descalzos ; below ran the Via Lata, the broad way to Sala- manca. There are the remains of two Roman aqueducts: one is near the station called El Milagro, of the other 10 arches and 37 piers remain, some 90 feet high ; they are arched in 3 tiers, and built of brick and granite. Close by is another Roman bridge , which crosses the rivulet Albar-regas Estremadura. Route 70. — Merida — Talavera . 283 —-Alba regia ; — it is quite perfect, and consists of 4 arches, 450 feet long by 25 feet wide : thus built for eternity, the original pavement exists in spite of a traffic of 17 centuries. Passing the Hermitage of San La- zaro, the Circus Maximus is seen in a hollow to the rt. of the Madrid road : it is so well preserved that a chariot-race might easily be given there. The whole length is some 1356 feet by 335 feet. The outer walls are of pro- digious thickness : the eight tiers or rows of seats for spectators still remain. The view of Merida from the hillock above is charming. Continuing to the E., outside the town is the Theatre, called las siete sillas , from the seven divisions of the seats : it is almost perfect ; nothing is wanting but the proscenium: the vomitories are quite uninjured. Near it was the amphitheatre, or, as some contend, the naumachia. There are many antiquities in the neighbourhood of Merida. The anti- quarian should visit that mighty water reservoir, el lago de Proserpina, or, as it is also called, the Charca de la Albu- era, which lies at 3 m. to the N. : the granite wall which dams up the water is gigantic ; the towers by which stair- cases lead down into the huge tank are called los Bocines. Sr. Pacheco's country house, near this lake, is worth visiting ; it is most pictu- resque. There is another Roman reservoir near Truxillanos (6 m.) called Albuera de Cornalvo ; it is, how- ever, smaller than the Charca. Obs. the rows of steps — the way in which they are arranged has induced anti- quarians to imagine that Naumachise were performed here. The Moors built the Alcazar in 835. Visit the Convent of Santa Eulalia, near the Madrid road : it is Roman- esque of some importance. El Hornito (the little oven), in which the good little martyr-child was baked, was converted into a chapel in 1612 : it is most interesting, and is decorated with Roman remains. The adjoining Church of Santa Eu- lalia is said to have been erected in the 4th cent. Obs. the Gothic portal and the singular capitals to the pillars. On each side of the high altar are an- cient chapels. That to the 1. belongs to the de la Boca family.* The view on the road from a stone cross is splendid. The Plaza Mayor is of the 16th century; near the Church of Santa Maria, with its Romanesque apse. Inside this church there is a good Gothic baptismal pile, and rich plater- esque arch, and near it a fine house in the plateresque style belonging to Sr. Pacheco. A small Museum of Antiquities has been formed near Santa Maria, of different objects found in the locality. Apply to Sr. Moreno Bailen if neces- sary ; the museum is under his control. The capitals collected are very interest- ing. Obs. a Latin Byzantine bas-relief. In a private house belonging to Senor Soto there is a fine Roman mosaic, which has been described in Monu- mentos Arquitectonicos. In the Patio de la Car cel there are several Roman columns. Leaving Merida, the rly. sweeps round the rt. bank of the Guadiana, crosses the Aljucen by an iron bridge, and traverses the Vega del Guadiana, noted for the richness of its soil, and the superior quality of its wheat. Obs. in front the mountain-chain of the Sierra de las Viboras, said to swarm with snakes and reptiles of every kind. 8 m. Garrovillas Stat. Pop. 686. The river Lacara is now crossed seven times in succession before reaching 6| m. Montijo Stat. Pop. 6230. Here is the manorial seat of the Counts of Montijo. 11 J m. Talavera la Real Stat. Pop. 2235. This Royal town is full of ague and poverty. [An excursion may be made by lovers of Morales el Divino to Puebla de la Calzada (18 m.), to see his ten pictures representing the Pas- sion of the Saviour, which are in the parish church.] * For its further history, consult * Historia de la Ciudad de Merida,’ Bernabe Moreno de Vargas, Mad., 1633 ; ‘ Advertencias de Merida,’ Juan Gomez Bravo, 4to., Florencia, 1638. 284 Sect. IV. Route 70 .- — Badajoz: Siege. The Guerrero is crossed. The coun- try is one vast vineyard. 10 J m. Badajoz Stat. (Buffet.) Inns: Hotel Central, Tres Naciones, both indifferent ; Casa de Hue'spedes, in the Calle de Las Palmas, bad. Pop. 22,986. Omnibus to the centre of the town. The town is approached by a fine granite bridge of 28 arches, finished in 1596 from designs by Herrera. It was much injured by the inundations of 1877, but since then has been thoroughly repaired. The bridge is strengthened by a tete du pont, and by the fortified height of San Cristobal. Badajoz (Roman Battalium), being distant, about 5 m. from the Portu- guese frontier, is an important frontier place, and owes its chief interest to military events. Alonso IX. took it from the Moors in 1235. The Portu- guese besieged it in 1660 and 1705. Kellermann and Victor failed before it in 1808 and 1809 ; Buonaparte, in 1810, ordered Soult to advance on Estre- madura, to relieve Massena when ar- rested before Torres Vedras ; the Duke, having foreseen the move, cautioned the Spanish Junta to be prepared. But Badajoz was com- manded by Rafael Menacho, a brave man, and the strong garrison was assisted outside by an army under Gabriel Mendizabel. On the 4tli of March, Menacho was unfortunately killed, when Jose Imaz, his successor in command, sold the place to Soult, who, when he first be- held the tremendous defences, quietly remarked, “ There are few forts so strong but what a mule laden with gold can get in.” Had Badajoz been held by the Spaniards but a few short days only, Andalucia must have been evacuated by the French, and “ we” as the Duke said, “ should have saved Spain.” “Its fall was certainly the most fatal event of the war” (Disp. Dec. 4, 1811). No sooner had the fortress been surrendered to Soult, than Beresford attempted its recovery. He failed, as even the indulgent Duke said, from “his unfortunate delay” (Disp. April 10, 1811); "and when he had given the French time to render success impossible, he risked the need- less battle of Albuera ( see Albuera), and thus, as Napier proves, caused two subsequent years of most harassing operations to the Duke. The Duke then determined to try what he could do himself, and, after he had taken Ciudad Rodrigo, made his preparations with such secrecy that neither friend nor foe divined his plan. He pounced, March 16, 1812, on Ba- dajoz, while Soult and Marmont were both too far separated to relieve it. Siege of Badajoz. In order to realise the celebrated assault of Badajoz in March, 1812, the traveller will do well to place himself in the gorge of the Picurina Redoubt, a short distance without the town, the capture of which by the allied forces was the first step towards the comple- tion of the siege. Standing in this position, he will see the castle, on a hill about 100 feet high to his right, at the junction of the Ri veil as with the Guadiana ; next to it the bastion of the Trinidad, followed by the bastion of Santa Maria, and between it and that work a ravelin, now complete, but at the time of the siege half finished. The bastioned fronts suc- ceed each other till they reach the Guadiana, terminating with the bas- tion of San Vicente. On the hill on the further side of the Guadiana behind the castle is Fort Cristoval, and in the low marshy ground of the Rivellas is the little outwork of San Roque. The investment of the town was completed on the 17th March, 1812, but rain interfering with the opera- tions of the besiegers, their batteries opened fire only on the 25th. On that night the Picurina was assaulted, and, after a heavy resistance, captured. Lodgments were formed, and breach- ing batteries established against the curtain between the castle and Trini- dad, and between that work and S. Maria. On the 6tli April orders were issued for the assault of the town (at 10 p.m.), Estremadura. 285 Route 70. — as follows: Pic ton, on the right, to attack San Roque and the castle; Leith to attack S. Vicente on the left ; in the centre the 4th and Light Divisions were to attack the breaches in the Trinidad and S. Maria. Picton, forced to anticipate the orders, began his attack at 9.30 against the castle. Ladders were raised against the walls, and the stormers rushed up under a fire of shells, stones, logs, and various missiles prepared for the purpose. The leading stormers fell back stabbed with pikes into the arms of those following them. In a short time all the ladders were overturned, and the French shouted “ Victory but a Col. Ridge, rallying his men, planted a ladder against the wall at a spot (easily re- cognizable when one is on the castle wall) where it was lower, and an em- brasure offered additional facility for entering, and, rushing up, gained the summit. He was immediately killed, but by his gallant act the castle was gained. At the centre attack the explosion of the mines added to the confusion caused by the scarceness of ladders and other means for descending into the ditch. Many were lost, but the sur- vivors, pushing on undaunted, faced in the ditch the overwhelming fire from the walls, while in the darkness they strove to find the breaches. Rush- ing on to the unfinished ravelin, which they mistook in the dark for the great breach, many were mown down by the French fire ; others falling into a cut in the ditch filled with miry water, delayed those behind and added to the confusion. The fire from the walls poured into them, but retreat was use- less, if possible. Led by some daring spirit, a rush was made against the now-discovered breach, but entry was barred by a range of sword-blades, and there many were impaled, while those behind were brought more nearly under the fire of the defenders. Thus matters stood till midnight, when an attack on the left, made easier by the withdrawal of troops for the defence of the castle and the comparative low- ness of the walls, was successful, and the assailants, rushing along the para- -Siege — Cathedral. pets, gained, after a slight check, the interior of the town. The defenders of the breach, now taken in rear by the right and left attacks, retired from the centre and the town was Won. A dreadful scene of outrage ensued ; the town was sacked throughout, and the governor sought refuge in S. Cris- toval, where he surrendered to a sum- mons on the morning of the 7th. The garrison consisted of 5000 men, and the besiegers numbered 15,000. The prize so dearly purchased, 5000 being killed and wounded in the besieging army, consisted of 3800 prisoners, a first-rate fortress, 179 guns, 6000 stands of arms, the colours of the garrison, a pontoon train, and vast military stores ; but, by the pos- session of Badajoz, Wellington felt his position at Lisbon secure from attack by the French armies in the south, leaving him free to pursue his opera- tions against those in the north. The baffled and out-generalled marshals had now no safety but in retreat, so Marmont fell back on Sala- manca, and Soult on Seville ; then Hill advanced on Almaraz, and de- stroyed the forts, the enemy flying before him to Navalmoral. — KF.C.D. The Cathedral, which has survived so many sieges, was begun in 1248 by Alonso el Sabio ; the facade is later, and was built in the Grjeco-Roman style, with Ionic pillars, and a statue of the Baptist ; at a side portal is fixed, on a marble stone, the hammer which, when a canon was dying, used to be knocked before the passing bell was introduced — the exact 2tfjuai/5pov Syjueiov of the Greek Church. The chon* is rich and finely carved in the Renaissance style. Notice especially the tribunes of the organs. In the transept there is an old paint- ing on panel, with the donatorio at the feet of Nuestra Senora de la Antigua. Visit the Camilla de Figueroa: the painted retablo is good, and the tiles very fine. Notice a Christ by Morales. Over the high altar there is a good marble bas-relief representing the Virgin and Child. In the centre there 286 Sect. IY. Route 70 .- is a fine bronze sepulchre of the founder of the chapel. Luis de Morales, called El Divino , more from his painting subjects of divinity than from any divinity of painting, was born at Badajoz early in the 16th centy., and a street bears his name. Here he was living in 1581, when Philip II., on his way to Lisbon, sent for him and said, “ You are very old, Morales.” “ And very poor, sire,” was the reply ; when Philip, a true patron of art, gave him an annual pension of 300 ducats, which he enjoyed until his death in 1586. He chiefly painted Saviours crowned with thorns, and Madonnas Dolorosas ; he finished highly, and was the Parmigianino of Spain. He is defective in his lengthy drawing, and often dark and cold in colouring. The French took away his four best from the Cathedral, and those which they left have been repainted ; observe a Crucifixion, with a Parmigianino-like old man. The cloisters are most picturesque ; the architecture is Plateresque, and the centre full of fine orange-trees and creepers. In the Church de la Concepcion is a retouched Saviour with the Cross, and an injured Virgin and Child, painted in 1546 by Morales. In the San Agustin (the porch is not bad) is the ludicrous tomb of the Marquis de Bai, the general of Philip V. who was so soundly beaten by Stanhope at Zaragoza in 1710. The effigy of the heroic deceased resembles a baboon in a periwig. Three diligences leave Badajoz daily. One daily to Olivenza. One on alter- nate days to Seville, and the others also on alternate days to San Vicente de Alcantara. The Portuguese frontier is 7 kilometres from Badajoz. The traveller should ascend to the hill San Cristobal, from whence the town presents a noble front. Cross the bridge, turn to the rt., and then ascend the hill. The view is excellent. To the rt. is the Picurina; between it and las Pardeleras are the quarries -Badajoz. where the Duke stood during the unsuccessful murderous assault on the opposite very strong bastions of Santa Maria and Trinidad ; to the 1. is the Sierra del Viento, from whence Soult made his previous "attack; at the W. extremity is San Vicente, by which Walker entered. Ascend also the Castle hill, which was the site of the ancient city : it contains several Roman remains. If pressed for time it is best to choose this ascent. The Plaza underneath is a mixture of ruined Moorish and Spanish works, an abomination of desolation : part of the mosque, with red-brick arches resem- bling those of Cordova, exists in the neglected crumbling castle: a lofty thin tower in the upper keep, much spoilt by a modern addition, commands the whole of what was the English position. Towards the S. E. of the Castle is the ancient town-hall, Casa del Posito. It contains a fine old saloon supported by columns. In one of the rooms of the Diputacion Provincial there is a small museum of antiquities. El Campo de San Juan is the prin- cipal square of Badajoz. In it stand the cathedral, the town -hall, the little theatre, the best cafe, and the princi- pal shops : in the centre is the shady fashionable promenade. The arms of Badajoz are the pillars of Hercules, and “ Plus Ultra.’ 9 This motto is, however, inapplicable, so long as Portugal continues to be separated from Spain, and consequently a source of weakness. This want Philip II. well knew when he pounced upon the prey, which was lost by his grandson, Philip IV. (For route to Portugal see Rte. 72. To Seville, Rte. 73.) Estremadura. 287 Route 71 . — Badajoz to Lisbon . ROUTE 71. BADAJOZ TO LISBON BY ELYAS AND SANTAEEM. 174J m. We give this route for the conve- nience of those who may wish to enter or leave Spain by way of Portugal. The Spanish frontier is crossed at 5 m. Frontera Stat. Here passports* and luggage are examined. 10 m. Elvas Stat. (in Spanish Yelves). Pop. 11,206. This episcopal city is one of the strongest in Europe. Visit its cathedral, dedicated to Sta. Maria, and containing some of the best stained glass in Portugal; Fort Lippe, an exceedingly strong military position, which crowns the summit of a high hill to the S. of the town, and the huge aqueduct, which brings its water from a distance of 3J m. : it is con- structed of three tiers of arches, and presents a most picturesque appearance as seen from the ramparts of the city. 12 £ m. Santa Eulalia Stat. Pop. 1889. 11J m. Assuma Stat. Pop. 1093. 7J- m. Portalegre Slat. Pop. 7207. This city, the ancient Medobriga or Ammaia, was created an episcopal see in 1550. Visit the cathedral, the Casa da Camara, and bishop’s palace. Here are several cloth-manufactories. In the environs are extensive marble quarries. 9J m. Crato Stat. Pop. 1340. Visit its ruined castle, formerly the resi- dence of the Grand Prior of the Knights of Malta. Its church and hospital are also deserving of notice. 10 m. Chanseca Stat. 12J m. Ponte de Sor Stat. Pop. 2618. This unhealthy town, which is * Passports are still required for Portugal. situated 1 m. from the rly. stat., takes its name from a bridge built by the Romans over the Rio Soro. The great military road from Santarem to f Me- rida crossed over this bridge. 10J m. Bemposta Stat. Pop. 988. Here the rly. enters the valley of the Tagus. 7J m. Abrantes Stat. Pop. 6380. This strongly fortified town occupies the site of the ancient Tibucci. Visit the Ch. of San Francisco, one of the most beautiful ecclesiastical edifices in Portugal ; visit also the Ch. of S. Joao Baptista. Here Don John I. went in pilgrimage previous to fight- ing the battle of Aljubarrota. His stirrup-leathers broke as he was re- mounting. With great presence of mind he turned to his attendants and said, “ Galai vos : que quando me ndo aguardao os loros , menos me aguar - darao os Castelhanos,” thus destroying the evil effect which such an omen would otherwise have had upon his followers. After the victory he re- turned to this church to give thanks. It was here that the masterly retreat of the French under Junot terminated, 1806. Napoleon conferred the title of Due d’ Abrantes upon that general. 3 m. Tramagal Stat. Pop. 1462. Near this point the rly. crosses the Tagus upon an iron bridge consisting of 16 arches. 6| m. Praia Stat. 5 m. Villanova de Barquinha Stat. Pop. 962. Proceeding W. the rly. to Oporto branches to the rt. (2 J m.). 8 m. Abalto de Miranda Stat. 6 m. Figueira Stat. 5} in, Santarem Stat. (Buffet). Inn : Hotel de Felicia. Pop. 489. This interesting town was the Scalabis or Presidium Julium of the Romans. Its present name is derived from Santa Irene, a nun, who was put to death Oct. 20, 653, in consequence of having been falsely accused of incontinency, by Remigio, a monk, who had fallen violently in love with her. (See the legend in Handbook to Portugal .) Visit the Ch. of S. Joao do Alporao, an early Romanesque structure, now used as a 288 Sect. IY. Route 72 . — -Badajoz to Olivenza . theatre ; and the suppressed Convent of Gra9a, founded by the Count of Ourem. Obs. the fine tomb which contains the relics of the noble founder. In this ch. was also buried Dom Pedro Alvares Cabral, the discoverer of Bra- zil. Notice in the Ch. of San Francisco, which dates from the 13th cent., the remarkable crucifix executed by order of King Joao I., and said to be the exact height of that monarch. [On the opposite side of the river is the town of Almeirim (Pop. 3710), once the summer residence of the Por- tuguese royal family. The town was built by Joao I., a.d. 1411. Here several of the Infantes were born, including the Cardinal King Dom Henrique.] 8J m. Santa Ana Stat. 3^ m. Reguengo Stat. 5 m. Azambuja Stat. 6 m. Carregado Stat. 4 J m. Villafranca-da-Xira Stat. Pop. 4204. This town was founded by French immigrants in the reign of Affonso Henriques. Here Dom Mi- guel proclaimed the reaction against the constitution, 1823. Salt-works exist in the neighbourhood. Much leather and calico are here manu- factured. 4 m. Alverca Stat. Pop. 1673. 2J m. Povoa Stat. Pop. 1408. Here are also large salt deposits. 4J m. Sacavem Stat. 2 m. Olivaes Stat. Pop. 3539. 1J m. Poco do Bispo Stat. 2Jm. Lisbon. Pop. 203,681. Termi- nus. Diligence and rail. Hotels : Central ; Durand's, in the Rua das Flores ; Bragan 9 a, in the Rua do Fer- regial ; Mrs. Street’s Hotel, in the Rua d'Alecrim. (For Lisbon and its envi- rons, see Murray's Handbook for Portugal.) ROUTE 72. BADAJOZ TO OLIVENZA, ON THE PORTU- GUESE FRONTIER. 14 m. Diligence daily. A diligence leaves Badajoz on alternate days for Olivenza. This road leaves Badajoz in a S.E. direction, following the valley of the Guadiana : the district through which it passes is flat, sandy, and uninte- resting. Olivenza. Pop. 7271. This im- portant frontier town belonged to Por- tugal until the year 1801, when it was conquered by Spain, and it was ceded in perpetuity to that kingdom upon the termination of the war. However, at the settlement of Europe in 1815, it was agreed that the town should return to Portugal, but the Spanish Govern- ment, from that time to the present, has always found some plausible pre- text for evading the engagement. This ancient place is surrounded by a wall. In the centre of the town are the ruins of an ancient castle, the fine tower of which still remains. The churches of Santa Maria del Castillo and Santa Maria Magdalena, may be visited. (For entrance Rte. into Portugal, see Murray’s Handbook for Portugal , Rte. 5.) 289 Estremadura. Boute 73 — Badajoz to Seville . BOUTE 73. BADAJOZ TO SEVILLE, BY LA ALBUERA AND EL RONQUILLO. DILIGENCE AND RAIL. 133J m. Diligence on alternate days. The road skirts the fortress of Picu- rina, and traverses the vast tract of pasturage called La Florida. 14J m. La Albuera. Pop. 317. This otherwise insignificant hamlet owes its European fame to its “ glorious field of grief/’ and to the murderous conflict which here took place, May 16th, 1811, between Soult and Beresford. Passing the bridge the town rises in front; the battle took place on the ridge to the 1. Battle of Albuera. On 12th May, 1811, Beresford, who was engaged in besieging Badajoz, heard that Soult was approaching to its succour. He determined to raise the siege, and, yielding to the persuasions of his officers, to give Soult battle at Albuera. The greater part of his troops arrived there on the 15th, and occupied the left half of the Albuera position (a ridge 4 m. long overlooking the Feria rivulet), where they covered the Yal verde road, along which he could, if necessary, retreat towards Lisbon. Blake, who had been put under Beresford’s command (to his j disgust), was with his Spaniards to : occupy the right. But the south por- tion of the extreme right of this ridge was left unoccupied, and formed the main object of the French attack. The hill to the N. of Albuera, cover- ing the roads to Talavera Beal and Badajoz, was occupied by the Portu- guese. Lumley’s cavalry and horse [Spain, 1882.] artillery were posted on the rear of the N. portion of the saddle-back close to the Yal verde road, with Col- borne in front. On the morning of the 16th, after the commencement of the battle, Cole arrived with the infantry of the 5th army, and two of his own brigades with some Portuguese cavalry, and the Allies then mustered 30,000 infantry, 2500 cavalry, and 36 guns ; the British, on whom fell the brunt of the battle, numbering 7000. Soult had with him 19,000 picked infantry, 4000 veteran cavalry, and 40 guns, but his forces were all of one nation, and his generalship superior to that of his adversary, besides which, Blake, the Spanish commander, was dissatisfied at being superseded by Beresford, and showed it in all his proceedings by failing to support him. On the afternoon of the 15th, the Allies’ cavalry which had been on the rt. bank of the Albuera, being un- supported by the infantry, withdrew and left the woods in that part of the field in the possession of the French, whose movements and dispositions were thus concealed from the Allies. On the morning of the 16th May the French commenced to debouch from these woods, making a feint against the left of the Allies’ position, but their real attack with 15,000 men and 30 guns was against a hill on their right only about a gunshot from either army, which overlooked the rear of the Allied position, and which Beresford had omitted to occupy. Beresford, on discovering the main object of the French attack, sent to Blake ordering him to change his front by throwing back the right. The Spaniards refused at first to obey, and complying with the order too late, the French seized the hill, and made against the centre of the ridge. Lumley, with horse artillery and cavalry, was ordered down to the right to a small plain behind the Aroya stream. Coles division was placed behind them, and Colborne was ordered to assist the Spaniards, who were in severe diffi- culties. It was now noon, and as General Stewart brought up Col- u 290 Sect. IV. Route 73 . — Battle of Albuera. borne’s men a heavy rain began to fall, and, hidden in it, the French cavalry dashed against them before they could deploy. Swooping down, the French hussars captured 6 guns, and riding on, sabred the Buffs, the 66th, and the 48th; their onslaught was only checked by the 31st, who being in the rear had time to form square to receive them. The wind blowing aside the rain and smoke for an instant, allowed Lumley from the plains to see the disaster on the heights, whereupon he sent four squadrons and some Spanish cavalry against the French. The Spaniards dashed bravely up the hill to within a few yards of the French, drew rein, faced about, and fled. Meantime the Spanish infantry in the Allies’ right refused to advance, in spite of the appeal of Beresford — whi was nearly captured in a charge of French lancers. The bad weather now prevented Soult seeing how ad- vantageous for him was the position of affairs, and his troops remained halted in masses, instead of opening out and striking the decisive blow. The British would not yield — the 57th on the hill earned well the title of “ the Die Hards,” losing two-thirds of their number — but nothing could withstand the French attack. The ammunition was failing, and believing the battle all but lost, Beres- ford now thought only of drawing off his army, and gave directions to retire along the Yalverde road. While these orders were being given, Colonel (afterwards Viscount) Hardinge had met Cole coming up from Badajoz with two brigades, and ! using Beres- ford’s name, ordered them as well as the 3rd brigade of Stewart’s division to move to the assistance of the right. Beresford acquiesced, and ordered Alten’s cavalry to retake Albuera, which after much fighting had fallen to the French. Issuing from the smoke, Cole’s two brigades made straight for the lancers who were with the captured guns. One of these, the Fusileers’ Brigade (7th and 23rd regts.), now poured such a fire into the enemy’s flank that their onslaught was checked* In vain Soult sought to animate them with fresh courage, but nothing could stop that astonishing infantry. In vain, too, the French reserves were called up : for the Allies now rallying, in one grand charge swept the whole French army from the hill and threw them headlong into the plain below. The victory was completed by Alten retaking Albuera, and after some further fighting at the bridge, the French right was withdrawn, and before 3 p.m. the battle was over. The hill presented a dreadful scene : bodies of men of the various nations engaged in the strife lay huddled together, and below, the wounded crawling down to allay their thirst in the Feria, fell in and were drowned. On the morning of the 17th the .French withdrew, thinking from Beres- ford’s boldness in maintaining his position that he had received further reinforcements. The losses in the battle were heavy, Soult lost 8000- — Beresford 7000 — only 1800 English remained unwound- ed. The French took 500 prisoners, a howitzer, and several colours. Wellington arrived on the 19th, and directed Beresford to follow Soult cautiously, while Hamilton was sent to reoccupy the trenches at Badajoz. E. F. C. D. At Albuera two roads branch off to Seville, the one (A) by Jerez de los Caballeros and Fregenal to Santa Olalla, where it is joined by the other road (B), which passes by Santa Marta, Los Santos, Fuente de Cantos, and Monas- terio. The road by Los Santos is the best. Route A. 10 m. Jerez de los Caballeros. Pop. 7763. This picturesque old town has Moorish walls and a grand tower. It was built by the Knights Templars in 1229. The new town is well built, the streets are regular, and the houses nestle amongst fragrant orange and lemon trees. Fregenal (Pop. 7514), to Santa Olalla, Ronquillo, Santiponee, and Seville. Estremadura. Route 74 . — Madrid to Lisbon. 291 Route B. 13 m. Santa Marta. Pop. 3503. 19J m. Los Santos de Maimona. Pop. 6102. 14J m. Fuente de Cantos. Pop. 7051. Here Francisco Zurbaran, the painter, was born in the year 1598. The whole of this district is un- interesting to any but the sportsman and the agriculturist. Pigs and sheep, and game of all kinds, thrive better than the natives themselves. 11J m. Monasterio. Inn: Posada del Montanes. Pop. 3261. This, the most elevated valley in the Sierra Morena range of hills, is the point where the mountain streamlets part, descending either into the Guadiana or the Guadalquivir. 12. m. Santa Olalla. Pop. 2181. Above this village is a ruined Moorish castle, whence enjoy a superb view of the distant mountains. 23J m. El Ronquillo. Pop. 1317. This village rejoices in having given birth to the notorious Alcalde of the reign of Charles V . — a Spanish Jeffreys, whose Draco-like process has passed into a proverb. He executed all whom he caused to be arrested : the old for what they had done, the younger ones for what they might do, were they al- lowed to live and become men ! He it was who hung up the Bishop of Zamora at Simancas. (See Rte. 20.) 22J m. Santiponce. Pop. 1362. This miserable village occupies the site of the ancient Italica , founded u.c. 517, by Scipio Africanus, upon the site of the Iberian town Sancios. Here the Emperors Trajan, Adrian, and Theodosius were born. (See Rte. 86 .) 1J m. Camas Stat. Pop. 1011. Situated upon the banks of the Guadal- quivir. 2 m. Sevilla. Inns : Fonda de las Cuatro Naciones; Fonda de Paris; Fonda de Europa. (For Seville, see Rte. 86.) ROUTE 74. MADRID TO LISBON BY NAVALMORAL, PLASENCIA [EXCURSIONS TO ALCAN- TARA, YUSTE, CACERES, AND TRU- JILLO], VALENCIA DE ALCANTARA, OPORTO, AND LISBON. The most direct way to Portugal. This line was opened in October 1881, Two trains daily in 21 J hours. Station at Atocha. Through carriages to Lisbon. The country through which the railway passes is poor and uninteresting. Travellers are recommended to take provisions, for the Buffets on this line are badly served. Madrid. 4 m. Yalverde Stat. Pop. 207. 5 1 m. Leganes Stat. Pop. 4902. 3 m. Fuenlabrada Stat. Pop. 2326. 3| m. Humanes Stat. Pop. 274. 3J m. Griffon Stat. Pop. 488. 6J m. Illescas Stat. Pop. 1577. 3 m. Araffa Stat. Pop. 495. 3J m. Villaluenga Stat. Pop. 1488. 5| m. Cabafias Stat. Pop. 1047. 3 m. Bargas Stat. Pop. 525. 5J m. Villamiel Stat. Pop. 3638. 44 m. Rielves Stat. Pop. 376. 4J m. Torrijos Stat. Pop. 2306. (For description see Rte. 12.) 7£ m. Santa Olalla Stat. Pop. 1653. 3 m. Ernstes Stat. Pop. 203. 4 m. Ilian Cebolla Stat. Pop. 2112. 3 m. Monte Aragon. Pop, 658. 8 m. Talaveru de In Reina Stat. Buffet. Trains to Madrid and Toledo. Inn: Parador de las Pijorras, bad. Pop. 9666. For descript. on, see Rte. 12. 10 m. Calera Stat. Pop. 3071. 7 m. Alcafiizo Stat. Pop. 589. 5 m. Oropesa Stat. Pop. 2239. This little town, which crests its ilex and olive clad hill, gives a title to the u 2 292 Route 74 . — Madrid to Lisbon. Sect. IY. Duke of Frias, who lias here a dilapi- dated Palace, and a fine Castle, with round towers and keep, 4 m. La Calazada Stat. 13J m. Navalmoral de la Mata Stat. Pop. 3324. [Almaraz, 7 m., may be reached from Navalmoral. Pop. 793. The Tagus is crossed near this little village by the picturesque Bridge of Almaraz, which spans the deep sea-green river, and consists of two arches 580 ft. long, 25 ft. wide, and 134 ft. above the level of the river. It was built (in 1552) by Pedro de Urias, at the expense of the city of Plasencia, as connecting that town with the province of La Mancha : it was destroyed by Cuesta in 1809, and was not rebuilt until 1845, when an ex- monk, Ibanez by name, repaired it at the expense of the locality. Lower down the river there, is another bridge, el Puente del Cardenal, built by Car- dinal Juan de Carvajal, a Plasencian; this bridge opens communica tions with Trujillo. Almaraz gave a title to Lord Hill, who here (May 18th, 1812) “ conducted with consummate ability one of the most brilliant actions of the Peninsular war/’ Following the Duke’s instructions, he passed the intricate defile of La Cueva with such secrecy that both Drouet and Foy were deceived. He next assaulted Fort Napoleon (J m. from the bridge), which he carried with the bayonet, although without artillery, whilst the fort mounted 18 guns ; thus, Soult was cut off from Marmont, and the Duke was enabled to take the latter single- handed, the result being the splendid victory of Salamanca.] 7 m. Casatejada Stat. Pop. 1112. If m. Las Cabezas Stat. Pop. 1770. 11 m. La Bazagona Stat. 9 m. Malpartida. Pop. 2000. The new line begins here. This village is well situated. In the centre there is a very handsome church. Soon after leaving the station the scenery im- proves. The castle perched on the high rocks to the 1. belongs to the family of Mirabel. 3f m. Plasencia Stat. Pop. 6404. The town is 6J m. from the station. Secure your places in the omnibus : a branch railway is in construction. Inns : Posada de las tres Puertas : Parador Nuevo. This town is girdled by the sweet clear Xerte (now spelled Jerte ), while the two valleys separated by the snow-capped Sierras de Bejar and de la Yera are bosoms of beauty and plenty ; that to the N. W. is called el Valle, that opposite is justly named la Vera, ver ibi purpureum et per- petuum. The picturesque town is defended by crumbling walls, and 68 semicircular towers, with a ruined Alcazar to the N. and a long connect- ing line of aqueduct. Plasencia, seen from outside, is indeed most pleasing in all directions ; here river, rock, and mountain, — city, castle, and aqueduct, under a heaven of purest ultra-marine, — combine to enchant the artist ; the best points of view are from the granite-strewed hill opposite thePuerta del Postigo. The valley to the S. W. is charming, and the bridges artistic. The families of Monroy and especially that of Carvajal, have done much for this city.* Here, it is said, stood the Roman Ambracia, and on Ambroz, its deserted site, Alonso YIII., in 1190, founded the present city, which he called, in the nomenclature of that devout age, “ TJt Deo placet ,” — the “ Een-shallah ,” the “ Si Dios quiere,” the “ if the Lord so will.” Made a bishopric, suffragan to Santiago, it rose to be a flourishing town. The ornate Gothic Cathedral, begun in 1498, is unfinished in some portions, and has been altered and dis- figured in others. The S. entrance is granite-built and noble. Observe the windows, the open- worked railing, and plateresque facade and candelabra : the Berruguete Puerta del Enlosado to the N., is grand and serious, with Giulio Romano-like medallions, and arms of Charles V. and of the Carvajals. The Capilla Mayor, commenced by Juan de A lava, was completed by Diego de Siloe and Alonso de Covarrubias. The silleria del coro , carved in 1520 by * Consult ‘ Historia y Anales de Plasencia,* Alonso Fernandez, folio, Mad., 1627. Estremadura. Route 74. — Plasencia : Excursions . 293 Rodrigo Aleman, is most elaborate and beautiful ; in it sacred, profane , serious, ridiculous, bacchanal, and amatory subjects are incongruously jumbled together. Observe the two stalls near the Coro alto , and the Gothic spire ; Aleman also carved the throne of the bishop, and the confes- sional of the Penitenciario. The retablo of the high altar, with the Assump- tion of the Virgin, and statues, are by Gregorio Hernandez, 1626. The chief subject is the Assumption of the Virgin, to which Assumption this Cathedral is dedicated ; the gaudy colours and gild- ing, and frittered drapery, are un- pleasing, but it forms a grand whole. Some of the cherubs are quite Murill- esque. The Re/a, in which the Assump- tion figures again, is a masterpiece of Juan Bautista Celma, 1604. The fine arts seem to have been ill-fated in this cathedral, for the pictures of Francisco Ricci, given by the bishop Lozano for the high altar mayor, have been re- touched, the Marriage of St. Catherine, by Rubens, stolen, and the Nativity, by Velazquez, burnt with the chapter- house in April, 1832. Obs. among the fine sepulchres that of the kneeling prelate Pedro Ponce de Leon (ob. 1753), wrought in the Berruguete style. The portal to the Sacristia is in rich plateresque ; here is treasured up an image of the Virgin, which is brought out on the festival, the 1 5tli of August. A noble staircase leads to the roof — ascend it for the panoramic view. The bishop Pedro de Carvajal lies in the ch. of San Nicolas ; observe his kneeling effigy : this powerful Plasen- cian family rose high in the Church, under the Valencian Borgia popes : one member, a cardinal, lies buried in Santa Croce at Rome. In the Monjas de San Ildefonso is the noble tomb of Cristobal de Villal- ba ; the effigy is armed and kneeling. In San Vicente is another armed effigy, now cruelly mutilated, of Martin Nieto, 1597, and was one of the finest things in Estremadura; attached to this Dominican convent is la Casa de las Bovedas, built for the Marques de Mirabel in 1550. Obs. the patio and pillars, and the saloons painted in fresco illustrating the wars of Charles V. In the cloistered terrace, el Pensil, were arranged some antiquities found at Capara and elsewhere, and among them a colossal foot. The gardens are pretty. The superb armoury dis- appeared with the French. Just outside the gate of the city, towards the bridge, is an elegant cross with a light spiral support, and in the S. Juan Bautista, near the river, the recumbent statue of the founder, Al - maraz. Excursions. To the Convent of Yuste. — Travellers before leaving Plasencia for Yuste should call on the Administrador of the Conde de Mirabel to ascertain if the administrador, who lives at Cuacos, is at home, and if they can visit the con- vent. It may otherwise happen on getting there that they will find he is absent, and that they are unable to see it. Leaving Plasencia on horseback, the road follows an easterly drection, cross- ing the rio Jerte, and then, ascending the Monte Calzones, continues to the picturesque little town of Pasaron (18 m.; decent posada; Pop. 1500), which lies at the foot of the Sierra Tormentos. An old monastery is passed to the 1., and soon the lovely valley of the Vera expands, with the yellow line of the Badajoz road in the distance. Then appears 1. the Geronimite Convent of Yuste (28 m.) nestling in woods about half- way up the S.W. slope of the Sierra de Vera, which shelters it from the wind. Below, near the village of Cuacos (posada poor), is the farm Magdalena, where, if necessary, the night may be passed. Thence ascend to the monastery, keeping close to a long wall. Near the entrance, obs. the patriarchal walnut-tree under which Charles V. used to sit. This sacred edifice, which takes its name from the streamlet, the Yuste, which trickles behind it, was founded 1404, on a spot where 14 Gothic bishops 294 Route 74 . — Plasencia : Excursions . Sect. IY. were surprised and killed by the Moors. In 1554 Charles Y. sent his son Philip (when on his way to Eng- land to marry Queen Mary) to inspect the place, which he had previously selected as a place of retirement in his old age. Charles arrived in February, 1557, and died Sept. 21, 1558. The emperor lived the life of a monk, com- bining the rural pursuits of a country gentleman.* Never, therefore, again will it be the lot of traveller to be welcomed, like ourselves, by the real and fit masters, the cowled friars, to whom news and a stranger from the real living world was a godsend. The day was passed in sketching and sauntering about the ruined buildings and gar- dens, with the goodnatured garrulous brotherhood : at nightfall supper was laid for the monks at a long board, but the prior and procurador had a small table set apart in an alcove, where, “bidden to spare but cheerful meal, I sat an honoured guest.” As the windows were thrown open, to admit the cool thyme-scented breeze, the eye in the clear evening swept over the boundless valley, the nightingales sang sweetly in the neglected orange- garden, and the bright stars, reflected in the ink-black tank below, twinkled like diamonds : how often had Charles looked out on a stilly eve on this self- same unchanged scene where he alone was now wanting ! When supper was done, I shook hands all round with my kind hosts, and went to bed, in the very chamber where the Emperor slept his last sleep. All was soon silent, and the spirit of the mighty dead ruled again in his last home ; but no Charles disturbed the deep slumber of a weary insignificant stranger; long ere daybreak next morning I was awakened by a pale monk, and sum- moned to the early Mass, which the prior in his forethought had ordered. The chapel was imperfectly lighted : the small congregation consisted of the monk, my sunburnt muleteer, and * See, for farther details, Stirling’s * Cloister { Life of Charles V.,’ and an interesting article j •by Richard Ford, in No. 183 of the ‘ Quarterly , Review.’ 1 a stray beggar, who, like myself, had been sheltered in the convent. When the service was concluded, all bowed a farewell to the altar on which the dying glance of Charles had been fixed, and departed in peace ; the morning was grey and the mountain air keen, nor was it until the sun had risen high that its cheerful beams dispelled the cowl and relaid the ghost of Charles in the dim pages of history. Of the convent now in ruins, little remains to attract the attention of visi- tors. The Coro alto of the church was finely carved in the Gothic style by Rodrigo Aleman. Obs. the rude chest (in a vault below) in which the em- peror’s body was kept 16 years, until removed to the Escorial (in 1574). A door to the rt. of the altar opens to the room occupied by Charles Y. ; and the bedroom where he died has a window through which, when too ill to rise from his couch, he could wit- ness the elevation of the Host. In this room hung the Gloria of Titian, which he directed in his will should be placed wherever his body rested. Accordingly it was moved to the Escorial* The pillared gallery — the Plaza del Palacio — which overhangs the private garden of the convent, is connected with a raised archway, el Puente, by which the emperor de- scended into the garden : below obs. the sun-dial erected for Charles by Juanelo Turriano, and the stone step by which he mounted his horse ; here an inscription records the spot where he was seated, August 31st, 1558, when he felt the ! first approach of death. The convent and the surround- ing estate now belongs to the Marques de Mirabel. From Plasencia there is a wild but picturesque ride to Avila (see Rte. 1), 80 m. by the Puerto de Tornavacas and Barco (Posada of “ La Trujillana,” decent). The angler and artist may at least make an excursion to the Puerto, 24 m., by the charming | valley of the Jerte, which winds up | amid fruit and verdure, walled in on ' each side by the snow-capped Sierras ^ * It is now in the Museo at Madrid (No. 752). Estremaclura. 295 Route 74. — Minas— Caceres. de Bejar and Yera, he might put up at Cabezuela, distant 18 m. After leaving Plasencia the railway crosses the river Alagon, passing the old and dilapidated town of Coria. Pop. 2600. The cathedral is poor. A new road is in construction which will connect Coria with the station of Canaveral. 13J m. Mirabel Stat. Pop. 252. Famous for its castle now in ruins. It was taken hy the Moors in 1186. Ferdinand III. recovered it in 1240. After passing the forests and dehesas of Mirabel, the railway enters a rough country, and, after passing through two tunnels, reaches the picturesque hamlet of Casas de Millan (Pop. 1500), surrounded by orange and lemon plan- tations. 11 m. Canaveral Stat. Pop. 1831. This thriving little town has some cork manufactures and oil mills. On leaving the station the railway follows the road to Salamanca, and crosses an iron bridge 365 metres long. On the 1. are the ruins of the old Alconetar bridge. Garrovillas, Pop. 7000, re- mains to the right, an industrial manu- facturing town which contains several cloth mills. The line ascends here. Obs. here the fine panorama of the Tagus. Two viaducts and four tunnels are passed on the way to 17 m. Casar Stat. Pop. 4507. An industrial population employed in tan- ning and rope making. 12Jm. Arroyo de Malpartida. [Here the line of Malpartida ends. Travellers wishing to visit Caceres must change here. Four trains daily. 10J m.] Excursions. [To Caceres. After leaving Arroyo the railway passes Malpartida de Caceres, continuing to the mining st rict of Calerizo de Caceres. 8 m. Minas Stat. Here is the famous lime quarry, in which, in 1862, phosphates were found which are un- doubtedly the richest and most exten- sive in Spain. At present four of them are worked by the Sociedad de Fos - fatos, the Esmeralda , San Salvadorean Eugenio , and La Abundancia. The phosphate is found where the chalk and slate meet ; it is worked to a depth of 80 metres. These quarries are worked by a company founded in 1876. A village has been formed for the working classes, in which about 150 families live, with church, casino , post office, schools, &c., and the best machinery. Horse-power of 250 horses is already employed, and they produce upwards of 50,000 tons a year. If m. Caceres Stat. Inn: Posada Nueva, very bad. Pop. 15,000. Casa de Huespedes de Perez. Diligence daily to Merida. Railway in construc- tion to Merida (see Rte. 70). Caceres — Castra Gsecilia , Csesaris — is the capital of its district. The climate is delicious, and the environs are very fertile, pro- ducing corn, fruit, and wine in abun- dance; the district is also celebrated for its hams and bacon. The town is situ- ated at a considerable elevation above the surrounding plain and is full of feudal architecture ; massive baronial houses, decorated with granite door- ways and armorial bearings, abound. The upper town retains its ancient tower and walls. Obs. the houses of G-olfines, with mosaics, of the Veletas, of the Counts of la Torre, and the man- sion of the Duque de Abrantes, with its fine windows. The granite Tem- plete is by Churriguera, 1726. The Gothic Parroquia de San Mateo, built by Pedro de Ezquerra, has a striking tower, and contains the tomb of a Marques de Y aldepuentes. The Ch. of Santa Maria contains a retablo, carved by Guillen (in 1556), with the Assump- tion and Coronation of the Virgin, &c. The sepulchres of the Figueroas, Paredes, &c., are also remarkable. Obs. also the fine suppressed Jesuit convent, and a seminario , founded in 1603. The ch. of Santiago, outside 296 Sect. IY. 'Route 74. — Alcantara — Bridge . the walls — once Muzarabie — is but- tressed up with Doric pillars ; its lleja (1563) is fine, and the Paso de Jesus Nazareno, which it contains, is much revered. The old banner of Alfonso VIII., of Leon, is at the Ayuntamiento. The modern granite bull-ring is very well built, and should be visited. On the airy Plaza, shaded by acacias, there is a mutilated Roman Ceres, and a Diana with a modern head.] To Alcantara, distant 34 m. Pop. 5761. Two miles from the station of Arroyo is Arroyo del Puerco, Pop. 6000, one of the richest towns of the Province ; “ Pig’s Brook/’ whose parish cli. contains several paintings by Morales ; and an old clock, which from being lighted at night is called the Faro by the neigh- bouring villagers, 21 m. from Brozas ; and through Brozas, which stands, with its picturesque castle and its Torre de Bel vis, upon a naked hill ; in the house of the Conde de Canilleros is the sword of the redoubtable Garcia Paredes. Over a treeless, miserable country brings the traveller to Alcantara (Arabice Al-Kan-tarah — the bridge). Inn : Posada de la Viuda, bad; Casa de Huespedes , near the Plaza de Toros. Pop. 2922. This ancient town — the Lancia of the Vet- tones, the Norba Caesarea of the Ro- mans — crowns an eminence over the river Tagus. Its crumbling old walls, towers, castle, and steep tortuous streets are very picturesque. Alcantara formerly belonged to a military order of Benedictine monks, founded in 1156 by Suero Rodriguez Barientos, to defend the frontier ; a principle borrowed from the Moorish Rabitos. The order, at first called de San Julian de Pereyro , like the Tem- plars, soon became too rich and pow- erful ; their wealth was coveted by the crown, as much as their influence was dreaded, so both were absorbed in 1495, by appointing the King the “Master.’ , Their noble granite- built convent, San Benito, almost ruined by the invaders, was built in 1506 by Pedro de Larrea, and im- proved by Philip II. The church is lofty and grand, the slim pillars ele- gant. The decaying altar colateral contains some injured pictures of Mo- rales, a fine “ San Miguel,” a “ St John,” a “ Pentecost,” an “ Apostle ” reading, and a “ Transfiguration ” — doubtful. The granite cinquecento chapel was erected by Pedro de Ibarra in 1550, for Francisco Bravo Commendador de Piedra Buena. Obs. his fine marble sepulchre. Many knights are buried in the church, e. g. Diego de Santillan, 1503 ; Nicolas de Ovando, 1511; also many others in the solemn cloisters. In a small temple is some injured sculpture, a “ Resurrection,” an “ Adam and Eve,” &c. Notice the wooden tattered chest in which Pelayus floated down 250 miles from Toledo.* Visit El Puente de Alcantara, “ the bridge of the bridge,” worth going 500 miles to see ; it stems the rock-walled lonely Tagus, striding across the wild gorge. “ Dove scorro il nobil Tago, e dove L’ aurato dorso Alcantara gli preme.” Filicaia and other poets have clothed the barren crags with imaginary flowers, and stranded the fierce bed with gold : but all this is a fiction, which avarice readily believes in re- gard to distant unvisited regions. The deep sullen river rolls through a deso- late arid country, and here resembles a mountain- enclosed narrow lake ; the bridge, the soul of the scene, looms like a huge skeleton, the work of men when there were giants on the earth, and who built with colossal stones commensurate in size with their con- ceptions : loneliness and magnitude are the emphatic features. The bridge is tinted grey with the colouring of 17 centuries, during which it has re- sisted the action of the elements and the worse injuries of man ; it consists of 6 arches, the 2 central the widest with a span of 110 ft. ; its length is some 670 feet, and height 210. The usual depth of the river is about 37 feet, rising, however, in floods to 176, for * Kor this legend consult * Morgado,’ Seville, p. 22, and Southey. ‘Don Roderick,’ note 51. Estremadura. 297 Route 74. — Alcantara — Trujillo. the narrow pass is a funnel : the best point of view is from the other side, turning down by the rocks to the 1. Built for Trajan, a.d. 105, it is worthy of an emperor. The architect, Caius J ulius Lacer, was buried near his work, but barbarians have demolished his tomb. At the entrance of the bridge a chapel yet remains, with a dedication to Trajan and some verses : one couplet gives the name of the architect : “Pontem perpetui mansurum in ssecula mundi, Fecit divina nobitis arte Lacer." The granite of which it is constructed is worked in bossage , pillowed, almoha - dillado: no cement was used. The centre arch has sunk ; one arch, de- stroyed in 1213, remained repaired with woodwork until 1543, when Charles V. restored it, as an inscription given by Cean Ber. (‘ Sum.’ 398) records ; the 2nd arch on the rt. bank was blown up June 10, 1809, by Col. Mayne, who had been directed to do so if the enemy advanced. The bridge was repaired with woodwork in 1812 by Col. Stur- geon, and thus continued until again destroyed during the civil war in 1836. It has been finally repaired by the exertions of the engineer Dn. Alejan- dro Millan, 1882. [27 miles from Caceres is Tru- jillo. Inn: Parador in the centre of the town. Pop. 7085. This ancient town (called Turris Julia , because said to be founded by Julius Ca>sar) is built upon a granite knoll, and domineers over the surrounding country. The streets are narrow and ill paved, yet some of the houses mark the former opulence of their owners — of those adventurers who returned from Peru, laden with the spoils of conquest. The entrance into this decayed old city is by the arch of Santiago : near it is a tower of Norman character, connected with a small ch. Upon the opposite side of the gateway obs. the tower, which is attributed to Julius Caesar, although probably Moorish. The nar- row streets, cut as if out of granite, abound in ancient gateways of cyclo- pean Roman work, and in picturesque Moorish-looking towers. The Ch. of Santa Maria la Mayor has a Lombard- looking tower older than the ch. itself, which is attributed to Julius Caesar : obs. the two lancet-windows to the N., and the rose-window to the AY. This ch. contains the tomb of Diego de Paredes — James AYall. This gentle- man of note, and brave soldier, was reputed to be of such great natural strength that he could stop a windmill with a single finger. Near Trujillo is shown a well 30 ft. wide, over which this Hercules and 8amson is said to have jumped forwards and backwards : he died at Bologna (aged 64) in 1534, and his bones were removed to Tru- jillo 11 years afterwards. This Diego served as a boy at the capture of Granada, became a general of Alexander VI., and was one of the 11 champions of Trani, in the Paseo de las Armas with the French ; he was also the right arm of the “ great general, 5 ’ and at the battle of Cerignola he alone defended the bridge against a whole company of French knights : he fought also at Pavia, when Francois I. was taken prisoner: in short, wherever Moor or Gaul were to be beaten, he is said to have been present. Visit the picturesque Plaza, and obs. the Ch. of Sail Martin in one corner: it has a single nave supported by noble arches, and a singularly beautiful stone roof of curious con- struction. It contains the tomb of Cardinal Gaeta, and another monu- ment sculptured with reliefs in granite, illustrative of combats with the Infidel. Visit now the Ch. of Santa Maria de la Concepcion, and obs. the tomb of Pizarro : his armed effigy kneels in a niche ; the helmet in front is said to have been actually his. This fierce, false, cruel, yet most daring and ener- getic man was the son of a swine-herd ; he is said to have been suckled — not by a Romulean wolf — but by an Estreme- nian sow. He was assassinated, June 16th, 1541, by the traitor Herrera.* * His history and character have been ex- hausted by Mr. Prescott. 298 Route 77 . — Plasencia Visit also his house in the Plaza : at the corner are figures of manacled Indians, fit badges of the “ Conquest/ * and of the plunder and murder of Atahualpa. In the Plaza is the Casa del Ayunta- miento, with some paintings in the saloon. Visit now the vast palace of the Duke of San Carlos, near San Martin, and obs. its patio of pompous preten- sions. Visit also the house of the Conde del Puerto, which has a good staircase. The ch. of Santiago contains a granite retablo, and has its titular carved by Gregorio Hernandez. Visit also the Alberca, which, from its Arabic name, is ascribed to the Moor ; but it is more probably one of those Roman reservoirs, of which such fine types exist at Me- rida. 26 m. is Logrosan. (For description of Trujillo to Logrosan, see Rte. 80.) ] Travellers who continue their jour- ney to Portugal after leaving Arroyo cross the river Salor over an iron bridge to 12 m. Aliseda Stat. Pop. 1453. The Sierra de San Pedro begins here. It extends from S. to W., crossing the mountains to 10J m. Herreruela Stat. Pop 669. The line leaves at the left the fine castle of Albuquerque, the great de- fence and scene of warfare during the middle ages between Moors and Por- tuguese. 14 m. San Vicente Stat. A thriving village. Four miles from here the railway passes a viaduct to 4 m. Valencia de Alcantara Stat. (Pop. 6830), the frontier of Portugal. Custom house. Buffet. The town is some distance from [the station. The old church of Roque Amador is worth a visit. The Plaza del Ayun- tamiento is paved with mosaic. For the Rte. from Valencia de Al- cantara to Lisbon consult the Spanish time tables. For description of the Rte. from Ponte de Sor, see Rte. 71 . to Ciudad Rodrigo . Sect. IV. ROUTE 77. PLASENCIA TO CIUDAD RODRIGO. 85 J IU. This equestrian excursion, although fatiguing, is interesting alike to the antiquarian, the artist, and the sports- man. The traveller may sleep the first night at Granadilla, Pop. 732 (18 m.) ; the second at the Convent of Batuecas (28 m.). Attend to the provend, and take a local guide. Leaving Plasencia, ascend to Nuestra Seiiora del Puerto, whence the view is superb ; thence to 5J m. Oliva. Pop. 1581. The courtyard of the count’s house contains some Roman military stones. The costume of the peasantry now changes : the males wear leather jer- kins open at the arms ; the women short serge petticoats of green, red, and yellow cloth, and they wear handker- chiefs of brilliant colour upon their heads. 3 m. Capara. This solitary farm occupies the site of the ancient Am- bracia. Obs. to the 1. a Roman bridge, quite uninjured, and, further on, a noble Roman granite archway. Hence the route continues alongside the old Roman road leading to Sala- manca. 10| m. Abadia. Pop. 278. This wretched hamlet is prettily situated under the Sierra de Bejar, at the head of the valley through which flows the Am- broz. Here is a square-built palace of the Dukes of Alva : it was formerly an abbey belonging to the Templars. It was here that the celebrated Fernando Alvarez de Toledo retired in 1573, after his recall from the Low Countries, and his disgrace. The gardens around 299 Estremadura . Route 77 . — Plasencia to Ciudad Rodrigo . this palace were the Duke of Alva’s joy and delight: he decorated them with fountains and statues, wrought at Florence by Francisco Camilani. The French laid waste this charming retreat. The fountain is now dry, the ground is strewn with broken sculp- ture, and the spot where Alva loved to sit is now a myrtle-overgrown grove. 6£ m. Lagunilla. Pop. 1450. Thence this road leads through a wood of gigantic chestnuts to Val de Nieve. Afterwards a streamlet is crossed which divides Leon from Estremadura. Ascending again, ride on to 15 m. Herguijuela. Pop. 493. The fishing in this district is excellent, the fish of the Rio Batuecas Cabezudo and the Cuerpo del Hombre (tributaries of the Rio Alagon) being especially fine and plentiful. The road now continues for 1^ hr. up and down the heathery Scotch- like hills, covered with aromatic shrubs. The district to the rt. is called la Tierra de las Hurdes (or Jurdes). The word — preserved in the Basque — signifies a pig. This district was long believed to be haunted by demons and inhabited by pagans; and in 1599, Garcia Ga- larza, Bishop of Coria, when granting a site for a Carmelite convent, rejoiced that Satan and his legions would soon be expelled by the holy brethren ! 3 m. The Convent of Las Batuecas. The convent, which has lately been burnt, was formerly a little town. The monks established schools for the peasants, and lodging-quarters for all travellers. The surrounding emi- nences, covered with fine timber, were studded with hermitages. A lofty wall, about 3 m. in circumference, en- closed gardens and groves. Visit El Santuario, a chapel of the Virgin perched on la Pena de Francia, a wild mountain height overlooking the val- ley. This ‘‘high place” is called “ The Rock of France, because a Frenchman named Simon Vela, after travelling through all the known quar- ters of the world, here discovered the miraculous image on the 19th of May, 1434. On the 8th of September this sanctuary is visited by thousands. Quitting the convent, a steep road leads rt., and commands a fine succes- sion of Alpine views. 10 m. Alberca. Pop. 1913. This dingy hamlet is composed of prison-like houses built of granite. [There is a road from Alberca to Salamanca. See Rte. 14.] 6 m. Maillo. Pop. 472. A poor village. 8 m. Tenebron. The road hence to Ciudad Rodrigo is utterly uninterest- ing. Pop. 326. 18 m. Ciudad Rodrigo. (See Rte. 16.) ROUTE 78. MERIDA TO TRUJILLO. 50 HI. Merida (see Rte. 70). 5J m. Trujillanos. The neighbour- hood is thickly planted with oak. 3J m. San Pedro. 10 m. La Venta de la Guia. The river Burdalo is crossed. 11 m. Miajadas. Pop. 4000. 11 m. Villameira. 13 m. Trujillo (see Rte. 74). 300 Sect. IV. Routes 79 . — Merida to Seville. ROUTE 79. MERIDA TO SEVILLE BY ZAFRA AND LLERENA. RAIL. 66 m. Two trains daily. Merida Stat. Pop. 6191. (Rte. 70.) 4£ m. Calamonte Stat. Pop. 1941. 9 m. Torremejia Stat. Pop. 346. 7i m. Almendralejo , Stat. Pop. 9666. Plaza de Toros. Good fights take place during the season. Here was found (Aug. 25, 1847 ) the great silver Disc of Theodosius which is now in the Academia de la Historia, Madrid. 12£ m. Villafranca Stat. Pop. 8591. 12 m. Los Santos de Maimona Stat. Pop. 6302. This picturesque town is built at the base of the Sierra de San Cristobal, in the centre of a vast well- cultivated plain. 5J m. Zafra Stat. Inn : Posada de Pepe. Pop. 5547. This most ancient city (the Segada of the Iberians, the Julia Restituta of the Romans) is full of buildings begun in better times, but either left unfinished, or destroyed by the French under Drouet in 1 8 1 1 . The great Lords of Zafra were the Figue- roas, whose dukedom of Feria is now merged in that of the Medina Celi family. Their shield, charged with canting fig-leaves, still appears on the chief edifices, although generally de- faced by the French. First visit the du- cal Palacio passing out by the handsome granite Puerta del Acebuche : this Go- thic Alcazar was erected, as an inscrip- tion over the portal states, by Lorenzo Suarez de Figueroa, in 1437. Near the porch is one of the curious primi- tive iron-ribbed cannon saved from the many others which the invaders de- stroyed, when they plundered the once curious armoury, and made a fortress of the palace. The patio has been modernised in the Herrera style, and is handsome, with fine marbles, Ionic and Doric pillars, and a fountain. The interior, gutted by the enemy, has been degraded by the stewards of the duke. The open arched galleries between the huge towers of the Alcazar command fine views over the gardens and olive- grounds of the environs. Adjoining the Alcazar is the unfin- ished convent of Santa Marina, which was desecrated by the invaders. In the chapel, obs. the sepulchre of the Hon. Margaret Harrington, daughter of Lord Exton, erected in 1601 by her cousin, the Duchess of Feria, also an English woman : she was the Jane Dormer , the most trusted of Queen Mary’s ladies of honour, and the' wife of Philip II. ’s ambassador in London at the important moment of Elizabeth’s succession. Her body rests here, but, true to her country in death, she sent her heart to England. Her effigy kneels before a prie-Dieu, with a mantle on her head; it was once painted, but has been whitewashed. Among the Graeco-Roman buildings in Zafra, obs. the magnificent marble Doric and Ionic patio of La Casa Grande, built by the Daza Maldonados, and the fine colonnades ; notice also the Doric and Ionic brick tower of the Colegiata ; neither of these edifices is finished, or ever will be : meantime the Plaza de Toros has been completed. Visit next the Santa Clara, founded by the Figueroas in 1828 (see date over portal) ; the invaders desecrated this convent and mutilated the recum- bent figures of the founder and his wife and a Roman figure in a toga and sandals : obs. the effigy of Garcilaso de la Vega, killed before Granada in the presence of Enrique IV. ; remark his singular bonnet. The effigy with- out a head is said to be that of Doha Maria de Moya. Zafra is sometimes called Sevilla la Chica. Its elm- planted Alameda is charming; its de- licious water-spring, called La Fuente del Duque, is brought in on arches. At Zafra the diligence which leaves Badajoz for Seville will take the tra- veller on, and join the railroad at Tocina. See Rte. 73. Estremad. Route 79. — Zafra . 11 i m. Matanegra Stat. 4§ m. Usagre y Bienvenida Stat. Pop. 2126. 6 m. Villagarcia Stat. Pop. 2266. 5J m. Llerena Stat. Pop. 5583. The railway is in construction from Llerena to Pedroso — at present there is no manner of continuing the journey but on horseback. The road is very bad. Jan. 1882. The train is again joined at Pedroso, passing by the following stations : — Pedroso Stat. Minas Stat. Villa de las Minas Stat. Tocina Stat. where it joins the main line to Seville. See “ Indicador.” Seville Stat. (see Rte. 86). ROUTE 80. TRUJILLO TO LOGROSAN AND GUADA- LUPE. 42 m. This rough excursion is most in- teresting to the geologist, the artist, and the naturalist. Take a local guide and attend to the provend. Trujillo. Pop. 7085. (See Rte. 74.) N.B. There may be some difficulty in obtaining horses or mules here. The road traverses a lonely and but partially-cultivated country. La Con- quista is a ruined cortijo with a fine- sounding name, situated upon an estate granted to the Pizarro family. So proceed to the Ermita, where there is a clear fresh stream. Passing through Zurita (Pop. 3192) the road to Almaden branches S.E. through Madrigalejo (Pop. 1648), the village where Ferdinand, the husband of Isabella, died, Jan. 23, 1516, aged 64 (see the inscription in the Casa Santa Maria). 80 . — Trujillo to Logrosan. 301 26 m. Logrosan. Inn : Posada, bad. Pop. 3468. This town stands in the narrow valley of the Pollares, at the be- ginning of the Guadalupe range. The presence of phosphate of lime, in its clay-slate quartzite strata, is almost a solitary instance in Europe. The vein, or rather deposit, lies about half a mile to the N.N.E. and S.S.W., and occurs amid clay and slate, except in the centre, where it is intermixed with quartz : made out for about two miles, sometimes it occurs emerging above the loamy soil, and at other times below it, in a bed in some places from 5 to 10 ft. wide. It may be traced by its general light straw colour, but the finer parts have a purple and white laminated reniform structure, like some depositions of carbonate of lime : it is extremely phosphorescent when pul- verised and thrown on lighted char- coal ; as no ingredient of organic life is to be found, it is presumed to be of primitive formation. It contains about 14 per cent, of fluoride of calcium. Logrosan, chiefly built out of a mass of very hard and compact black schist, with veins of quartz, is placed, like Trujillo, on a granite knoll, with an extensive view. The protruding slates add to the inconvenience of this wretch- ed poverty-stricken * hamlet, which, however, has a fine unfinished church, rising like a cathedral, with a beautiful apsis and a pointed retablo . Proceeding onward, the picturesque village of 7 m. Canamero (Pop. 1534) is reached. It stands at the entrance to a rocky gorge through which the beautiful Ruecas flows. Soon the defiles of the Sierra de Guadalupe are entered, amidst exqui- site scenery, and Scotch-like hills clothed with fine timber and aromatic herbs. Then a lofty table-land is ascended, from whence a sweeping panoramic view is obtained. 9 m. Guadalupe. Pop. 2756. The Posadas are iniquitous, but the mule- teer can obtain clean lodgings in some private house. The Geronimite convent of Guada- 302 Sect. IV. Boute 80. — Guadalupe . lupe towers grandly above the Plaza. It was once the richest and most vene- rated convent in Spain, and lord of all it surveyed. The celebrated Virgin of Guadalupe is said to have been carved by St. Luke, and to have been given by Gregory the Great to San Leandro, the Gothic uprooter of Arianism. It was miraculously preserved during the six centuries of Moorish invasion, and rediscovered in 1330 by one Giles, a cowkeeper of Caceres. A hermitage was immediately built on the spot, and, ten years afterwards, a chapel: this was converted into a convent in 1389, by Pope Juan I., who made it directly subject to the Holy Father. It was then granted to the Geronimite monks, who became so rich that the proverb ran — “. Quien es conde, y desea ser duque, Metase fraile en Guadalupe.” Navagiero, who went there with Charles V., describes the place in his ‘ Viaggio ’ (p. 12) as rather a city than a monastery, with a tower said to be filled with gold ; the cellars for wine were proportionate. The strong castel- lated walls, like those in the convents in Syria, proved the necessity of a defence against the infidel. The first view from the plaza is very imposing, yet one regrets that the ancient balustrade should never have been finished ; the pointed front of the chapel contrasts with the old towers, turrets, buildings, and library, to which new works were added when the Carlist Palillos held it during the civil war: the grand entrance is by a noble ascent and vestibule, with a Moorish arch to the 1. ; here is the Sagrario, and to the 1. the Gothic tomb of Alonso de Ve- lasco ,* the walls were hung with the votive chains of captives delivered by the Virgin. Hence Cervantes (Pers. y Sig., iii. 5) calls it “ Santisima imagen, Libertad de los cautivos, lima de sus hierros y alivio de sus prisiones. ,, In an adjoining chapel, obs. a repre- sentation of a general council held here in 1415 ; ascending to the Gothic church, to the 1. lies buried the archi- tect Juan Alonso, Maestro quefiz6 esta Santa Iglesia . The 3 naves are built in a massive pointed style, but the extension of the goto has destroyed the symmetry. The superb lofty reja, which divided the Monks from the po- pulace, is a masterpiece of Francisco de Salamanca and Juan de Avila. The cupola above the transept is octagonal, with gilt capitals. The classical Be- tablo , designed by Juan Gomez de Mora, and executed by Giraldo de Merlo, imposing in itself, is out of keeping in a Gothic church, which has been modernised in the worst taste, and was filled in 1618 with paintings relating to the Virgin and Saviour, by Vicente Carducho and Eugenio Cajes. The walls of the Capilla Mayor were ornamented in marble by Juan Bau- tista Semeria, a Genoese, and by Bar- tolome Abril, a Swiss. Obs. the royal sepulchres, statues, and carvings ; and in la Capilla de los cuatro altares , the effigies of Prince Dionisio of Portugal and Dona Juana his wife, erected in 1461, and moved to their present place under Philip II. Notice also the tomb of Dona Maria de Guadalupe Lancaster y Cardenas, Duchess of Aveyro; but this convent once was a tomb-house of illustrious dead. A jasper stair- case leads up to the Camarin of the Virgin, or treasury, with some paintings by Luca Giordano, which looks down into the ch. It is still the custom for visitors to the sanc- tuary to kneel under the Virgin’s mantle. The dresses and wealth in it were once prodigious : there remain still some vestments worked with pearls. The silver lamps, &c., the glo- rious Custodia made by Juan de Se- govia, the silver throne of the image, the silver angels, the 85 silver lamps, the gilt lamp taken at Lepanto, the diamonds, pearls, gold, and jewels, the offerings of kings, were plundered by Victor. He also carried off nine cart- loads of silver ; he, however, piously left the wooden image behind, although carved by St. Luke himself.* The splendid Sacristia contains 8 * The wonderful relics of this sanctuary are referred to, * Historia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe,’ folio, Gabriel de Talavera, Toledo, 1597 : the scrolly title-page is curious. Estremachira. 303 . ‘Route 80. — fine Zurbarans, representing the life of St. Jerome. The ch. is surrounded by an assemblage of buildings, once extensive and sumptuous. The 7ms- jpederia , or house of reception for strangers, was built out of the confis- cated goods of burnt heretics. Visit the two noble cloisters, one of a Gothic pointed, the other of a Moorish style. Notice an elegant Gothic shrine, or temple, and an extremely beautiful double arcade, one above the other. Obs. in an angle the injured tomb of Gonsalo de Illescas, Bishop of Cordova. La Botica, or medicinal dispensary, yet remains; and the library, from whence the best books have disap- peared. It was in order to facilitate the approach of pilgrims to this shrine, that Pedro Tenorio, Archbishop of Toledo, built in 1338 his magnificent bridge over the Tagus, ; about 28 m. below Talavera de la Reina. He also gave to the convent the remarkable bronze font which used to be near the refectory. Guadalupe. The Serrania of Guadalupe is a con- tinuation of the Montes de Toledo. The highest range, behind the convent, rises 5114 feet. These mountains divide the basins of the Tagus and Guadiana. In the cistus-clad plains game of every kind is most abundant. [Those who wish to visit Almaden may do so from Guadalupe. They must, however, return to Logrosan. The next day’s ride to Almaden (Pop. 7448) is lonely. The first and only village, Espiritu Santo, is too near the starting place to be of any use for a midday halt : rest, therefore, at a streamlet before ascending the Sierra beyond La Puebla de Alcocer (Pop. 2748). After leaving the pasture-land, the hills become wild and solitary, with a wide moor on their summit, and thence descend to Chillon (Pop. 2467), a dependency, as it were, of Almaden, although separated by a steep hill. For Almaden, see Bte. 70.] ( 304a ) INDEX. N.B. Pages 305 to 604: are in Part II. %.* The reversed Routes are marked in the Index with an asterisk (*), to distinguish them. A, Abad, San Antonio, 196, 514. Abadia, 298. Abadiano, 198. Abalto de Miranda Stat., 287. Abamia, 242, 243. Abandames, 243. Abdu-r-rahman, 314, 315, 324. Abencerrages, the, 391, 405. Abrantes, 287. Abres, 247. Abu Said, murder of, 336. Aceite, 353. Acequias, 4 55. Acibeiro Convent, 268. Aclimatacion, garden of, 364. Adaja, river, 28, 31, 143, 17 1. Adanero, 28. Adarves, 400. Adobes, 2, 200. Adour, river, 5, Adra. 452. * to Granada, 450. to Malaga, 452. Africa, view of, 383. Agoncilla, 567. Agramon Stat., 459. Agraz, 35- Agreda, 564. S a M a * de, 564. Aguada Puntales Stat., 258 Aguas dulces, 427. Agueda, river, 149, 152. , Baths of S a -, 199. Aguilar, 430. de Campos, 174, 183. Aguilarejo Stat., 23. Augustin, Archbp., 498. Augustina, 547. Ainhoue, 580. Ajaracas, 326. Ajarafe, 369, A jo, 198. Alacha, Conde de, 494. Alagon, 569 ; river, 295. Alameda, Villa of, 85. da, 557. Alamo de San Sebastian, 418. Alar del Rey, 174. Alarcon, 133. [Spain, Pt. I., 1882.] ALCONETAR. Alava, 184. Alayor, 601. Alba de Tormes, 164. Albacete, 465, Albaicin, 397, 415. Albaladejito, 126. Albarracin, 136. Albatira, 483. Albayda, 484 Alberca, 299, 404. Albertina Mts., 196. Albornoz, Card., 132. Albuera, battle of, 289, Albufera, 466, 485. , Due de, 485. , Marshes of, 591. Albuixech, 491. Albunol, 452. Albuquerque, 360. Alcaide de Segovia, 101. Alcaiseria, 414. Alcala de Chisvert, 493. de Guadaira, 428. de Henares, 5 55. de los Panaderos, 429. Alcanadre, 567. Alcanices, 148, 274. Alcanizo Stat., 291. Alcantara, 296. , Order of, 296. , San Pedro, 380. , Puente de, hi, 296. Alcantarilla, 459. Alcantarillas, las, 354. Alcarraz, 530. Alcarrazas, 312. Alcazaba, 400. Alcazar de San Juan Junct., 309, 393, 465- of Segovia, 101. of Seville, 335, of Toledo, 1 1 2. Alceda, 178. Alcira, 468. Alcobendas, 183. Alcober Stat , 501. Alcocer, 136. , Puebla de, 303. Alcolea, 312. Alconetar, Canaveral de, 295. ALMADENAJOS. Alcoy, 484. Alcublas, 493. Alcudia, port of, 583, 591. de Crispins, 466. Alcuneza, 551. Aldea Nueva del Camino, 143. Aldea Luenga, 164. Aldealpoza, 564. Aldeaseca, 144. Alegria de Alava, n. Alexander VI., 467. Alfambra, river, 137. Alfarache, San Juan de, 352. Alfafar, 468. Alfaro, 564, 566. to Soria, 564. to the Baths of Fitero, 565. to the Baths of Gravalos, 566. to Miranda del Ebro, 566. Alfayates, 15 1. Alforjas, [10], 182, 461. Alfubia, 592. Algarrobo, 487 , Algebra, 326. Algeciras, 358, 384; siege of, 384. Algemesi, 468. Algibes, 400. Algodor Stat., 104, 125. Alguazas, 459, Alhama, 440, 565, 566. de Aragon, 550. de Murcia, 482. Alhambra, the, 397 ; by night, 407. Alhamilla, 450. Alhendin, 447, 431. Alhondiguiila Stat., 321. Alicante, 463. * to Madrid, 46?. to Valencia, 484. Aliseda Stat., 298. Aljubarrota, battle of, 287. Allariz, 271. All Hallowe’en, 348. Allori, C., 64. Almacellas Stat., 538. Almaden del Azogue, 280, 303. * to Madrid, 279. Almaden ajos, 280. X 3046 INDEX. ALMADRABA. Almadraba, 382. Almagro, 279. Almandoz, 580. Almanjara, 409. Almansa, battle of, 466. Almansur, 208, 258 ; death, 551. Almaraz, 292. Almarcha, 132. Almarza, 569. Almazan, 568. Almeida, 152. Almeirim, 288. Almenara, 492, 530. Almendralejo, 300. Almeria, 449.1 * to Granada, 448. Almodovar, 312, 321. del Pinar, 133. Almohades, 3 14. Almonacid, castle of, 12 3- Almonte, 370. Almoraima convent, 380. Almorchon, 281. Almndevar, 539. Almunecar, 452. Almuradiel Stat., 310, 393. Alonso VI., 15, 98, 107, 207. VIII., 551. of Aragon, 215. — el Casto, 227, 229, 2 jo, 576. el Sabio, 21, 102, 279, 324, 358, 35 9 * 4 6 2 . Aloque wine, 464. Alora, 4JI. Alpera, 465. Alpuj arras, the, 391, 424, 450. Alqueria, 451. Alrroz, 576. Alsasua Junct., 11. * to Pamplona, 578. Altabe, falls of, 188. Altafulla Stat., 503. Alva, Duke of, palace, 140. Alvarez, M., 520. Alvaro, Don, Stat., 281. Alventoso, 139. Alverca, 152, 288. Alvito, Bp., 2 1 1. Almadeo, King, 462. Amandi, 235. Amantes de Teruel, 137. Amargura, calle de, 327. Ambroz, 143, 299. Amieba, 241. Ampolla, 495. Amposta, 495. Amurrio Stat., 189. Amusco Stat., 173. Ana, Santa, Stat., 288. Andalucia, 303. del Norte, la, 179. Baja, 431. Andara, 245. Andino, C. de, 17. Andorra, 523, 525. Andres, dehesa de San, 148. Andres de Palomar Stat., 522. Andujar, 312. Angeles, N. S. de los, 380. Angostura del Bio, 451. Anguisola, Lucia, 59. ARMERIA. Anson, Admiral, 266. ^ Antela, Laguna, 272. Antequera, 427. Antequerela, 397. Antiquarian tours, [23]. Antolin de Bedon, San, 237. Antolinez, 58. Antonio, San, 335. Anzuola, 198. Aoir, 576. Apeadero Stat., 280, 427. de la Tarza Stat, 281. Apes of Gibraltar, 379. Aqueduct at Merida, 282. Pamplona, 573. Segovia, 98. Seville, 346. Tarragona, 500. Aquilarejo Stat., 23. Arabo, 523. Aragon, Alhama de, 55 o. Arahal Stat., 426. Araila Stat., 548. Aramayona, 196, 199. Arana Stat., 291. Aranda de Duero, 182. Arandillo, rio, 181. Aranjuez, 123, 308, 393, 465 ; palace, gardens, 124. Arapiles, 149, 163. Araquil, Valle de, 577. Arauzo de Miel, 181. Araya, n. Arb (5 Stat., 270. Arbos, 503. Arbues, San Pedro, 543. Area of Oviedo, 229. Archbishops of Toledo, 114. Archena, 459. Archidona, 427, 428. Architecture of Spain', [53]. Archives of Aragon, 510, 51 1. of Simancas, 27, 167, 329. Archivo de las Indias, 329. Arco de Bara, 503. de la Frontera, 369. de Medinaceli Stat., 551. Arechavaleta, 199. Arenas, las, 191. Arenas, 243. , Campillo de, 394. , Puerto de, 394. Arenys de Mar, 521. Areta Stat., 189. Arevalo, 28. Arfe, Ant. de, 263. , Enrique de, 119. , Juan de, 25, 29. Arga, rio, 576. Argamasilla de Alba, 280, 309, 393 . Arganda, 125. Argentona, 521. Arguelles, 87. , San Martin de, 236. Ariege, river, 526. Ariza, 551. Arjonilla Stat., 312. Arlanzon, river, 13, 180. Armada, Sp., 234, 2 53. Armeria Real, 48. AVILES. Armilla, 447. Armour, German, 48. , Italian, 48. ■, Spanish, 48. Arms of Granada, 397. Arnedillo, 562. Arnedo, 562. Arnuero, 198. Arrabia valley, 196. Arrayanes, Patio de los, 402. Arrayoz, 580. Arriba, 578. Arrieros, muleteers, [10]. Arrigorriaga, 189. Arriondas, las, 236, 237. Arrizafa, 320. Arroba, 187. Arroyo de la Encomienda Ch^ 166. de la Miel, 439. del Puerco, 296. Arroz, 456. Arsenal of El Ferrol, 255. ArtJ, 590. Arteaga castle, 194. Arteijo, 254. Artesonado, 401. Artistical tour , [22]. Arvas, 226. Arzilla, 388. Arzua, 257. Asencio, San, 179. Ashar, 401. Asja, 401. Assuma Stat., 287. Ast, 202. Astapa, 427. Astiilero de Guarnizo at Sant- ander, 176, 177. Astorga, 217. * — to Leon, 216. Astrain, 577. Asturianos, 273. Asturias, the, 200. Astyr, 217. Atajate, 445. Atalayas, 456. A tallo, 578. Atapuerca, 178. Ataquines Stat., 28. Atarazanas, 435. Atarfe, 417 Ateca, 550. Atmella, 495. Atocha, Virgen de, 79. Atun escabechado, 382. Aurin, 560. Auseva, Cueva de, 241. Auto de Fe, 27, 347. Autol, 564. Avabides, 273. Ave Maria, the, at Granada, 41J. Averroes, 314. Avila, 28 ; cathedral, 28 ; churches, 30 ; excursions, 31 • to Bejar, 31. to Escorial, 3L to Madrid, 31. to Plasencia, 143. to Salamanca, 31. Aviles, 248, 249. INDEX. 304c AYIN. Avin, 24?. Ax, 526. ‘ Ay ! de mi Alhama ’ ballad, 440 - Ay at, 401. Ayerbe, 560. Ayre island, 59?. Azabacherias, 260 Azambuja Stat., 288. Azaraque, 459. Azcoitia, 19?, 199. Aznalcazar Stat., 365. Azpeitia, 10, 194, 199. Azuds de San Juan y Mu- chamiel, 464. Azulejo, 32 5, 402, 405. Azulejos, colour of, 469. of the Alhambra, 405. of Valencia, 469. Azuqueca, 555. B, Babieca, 22. Bable, the, 203. Bablia Fuente, 164. Bacalao, 349. Bacaudae, 489. Bacon, 204, 277. Badajoz, 284; history, sieges, 284 ; capture, 285 ; cathedral, 285 ; castle, 286. to Lisbon, 287. * to Madrid, 279. to Olivenza, 288. to Seville, 289. Badalona, 521. Baeza, 311, 394. Baetican bulls, 358. Bagneres de Luchon, 561 . Bahomonde, 251. Baides Stat., 553. Bailen, battle, 31 1. , Convention of, 312. Balatt, Ludherie, 320. Balax, 3 36 n. Balearic Isles, 581. Ball ornament, 441. Ballengd, Stat., 524. Ballesteros, 132. Ballotas, las, 248. Balsain, 95. Balsicas, 461. Banking, Sp., 82. Banos, 143. del Alhambra, 404. de Cerrato, 23. * de Padilla, 337. de Rosal, 135. de Tito, 521. Baracaldo Mines, 191. Baradero, el, 448. Baradona, 568. Barateros, 347. Barbantes, 270. Barbara, Queen, 79. , Santa, Stat., 494. Barbas tro, 561. to Luchon, 561. Barber of Seville, the, 329. Barca, ch. of N a . S a . de la, 266. BATHS. Barca, Calderon de la, 83. Barcelona, 504 ; history, 506 ; fair, promenades, 506 ; streets, squares, fort of Mon t- juich, 507; port, 507; ca- thedral, 508 ; churches, 5 10 ; Casa Consistorial and Casa Diputacion, 5 1 1 ; the Lonja, 51 1 ; University, libraries, 512; Roman antiquities, markets, environs, 514; ex- cursion to Montserrat, 514. Barcelona to Ax, 525. to San Juan de las Aba- desas, 523. to Lerida, 527. to Montserrat, 515. * — to Perpignan, 517. to Puij> cerda, 523. to Toulouse, 525. to Urgel, 523. __ — to Villanueva, 517. Barceloneta, 507. Barcena, 175, 250. Barcia valley, 265. Barcial, 274. Barcino, 513. Barco de Soto, 227. Bardulia, 1. Bargas, 140, 291. Barilla, 453. Baroccio, 68. Barosa, battle, 381. Barquera, la, 257. Barracas, 139. Barranco, de S. Juan, 418. del Rastro, 494. Barreras, Venta de las, 273. Barrientos, Lope de, 132. Barrios, los, 371, 379- Barruelo coal-mines, 174 Bartolome, Maestro, 479. , San, 143, 352. de las Torres Stat., 367. Basque Provinces, 184. language, 187. Bassano, 59, 65. Bastan, el, 453. Batata, la, 436. Baths of Alceda, 178. of Alhama, 441, 550. Arechavaleta, 199. of Arteijo, 254. of Carballo, 254. of Carratraca, 364. of Cestona, 194. de Cuntis, 267, of Ledesma, 164. of Loeches, 557. of Luchon, 562. of Lugo, 225. of Outaneda, 178. of Panticosa, 560. of la Puda, 527. of Puente Viesgo, 178. de Reyes, 267. of Ribas, 525. of Santa Agueda, 199. of Sacedon, 136. of Trillo, 555. of Zumaya, 193. BETETA. Batuecas, las, 299. Baul, venta de, Stat., 481. Bautismo de San Vicente, 475. Bayona, 268. Bayonne, 5. to Madrid, 4. Baza, 481. Bazagona, la, Stat., 292. Baztan, valley, 579. Beamud, 136. Beasain Stat., 366. Becerra, G., 218. Becerril, 132. Bedel, Pierres, 1 37- Beggars, Sp., [37]. Begona, 194. Behobie, 6. Bejar, 143. Bejas, 188. Bejer, Venta de, 358. Bejes, 245. Belalcazar, 281. Belen, N. S. de, 281. Bell of the Alhambra, 400. of Huesca, 559. Belliard, Gen., 36, 83. Bell-lloc, 530. Bellota, 277. Bells of Seville, 321 . , self-ringing, 271. Bellver, 523, 587. Belmez, 281, 321. Belmonte, 250. Belorado, 179. Belpuig, 529. Bembibre, 219. Bemposta, 287. Benacazon Stat., 365. Benahabis, 379. Benalmadena, 439. Benapadux, 449. Benasque, 561. Benavente, 169, 274. * — to Valladolid, 1 68. * to Zamora, 274. Beniajan Stat., 461. Benicarld, 493. Benicasim, 49?. Benidoleig, 485. Benifayo, 468. Benifasa, 493. Benito, Don, 281. Benjamin of Tudela, 570. Berceo, 31. Beresford at Albuera, 289. Berga, 527. Berja, 451. Bermeo, 194. Bermudez, C., birthplace, 23 Bernardo, Archbishop, 553, 555. del Carpio, 174, 576. Berron, el, 239. Berruguete, A., [43], 27, 107, 206. Berwick, Duke of, 466, 513. Besains, 11. Besaya, river, 174, 238. Besians, 561. Betanzos, 251. Betelu, 578. Beteta, 135. 304d INDEX. RETUECAS. Betuecas, las, convent, 299. Beznar, 447. Biaritz Stat., 5. Bibautabin, el, 409. Bible, the Complutensian, 555. Bidassoa, the, 6. , passage, by the Duke of Wellington, 6. Biescas, 560. Bilbao, 189 ; sieges, 189 ; bridge, 190 ; excursions, walks, 19 1 ; Port, 191. to Santander, 197. * — to San Sebastian, 192. to Villareal, 198. * to Vitoria, 196. Bibilis, 549. Bine far, 538. Black Prince, the, 180, 576; ruby of, 336 n. Blades, Toledan, 122. Blanca, 459. Blanche of Bourbon, 370. Blanes Stat., 52T. Bias del Prado, 56. Blayney, Lord, defeat, 439. Blessing the sea, 268. Boabdil, King, 391 ; his fare- well to Granada, 418 ; death, 418. Boadilla, 149. Bobadilla, B. de, 101. Junct., 427, 430. Boarding houses, [13]. Bocanegra, A., 348, 411. Bocas de la Isla, 358. Boceguillas, 182. Bodegas, 310, 356. Bodon, el, 15 1. Boeza, 219. Bolanos, 279. Boletin de sombra, 349. Bonanza, 363. Bone deposits, 137. Bonifaz, Ramon, 324. Bonnet, Gen., 233. Boo, 176. Books of reference, [57]. Bordeta, la, 504. Bordils Stat., 518. Borgia family, 467. Borgona, J. de, 29. Borja, St. F. de, 467, 485. Borjas Stat., 503. Bornos, 369. Bosch (el Bosco), 73, 478. Bostibayeta Mts., 196. Botanical tours, [23]. Botany on Sierra Nevada, 419. Boutelou, E., 364. Boveda de Castro, 149. Boy, San, 504. Boyd, Capt., 435. Braganza, 274. Branas, las, 250. Branuelas stat., 219. Bravo, Senor, 168. Bread, Sp., 429. Breba, 410. Breda, 522 . Brenes, 321. CABRILLAS. Breughel, 69, 70. Bribiesca, 13. Bridge of Merida, 282. of Ronda, 443. Brigands, [14]. Brindos, lake, 5. Briones, 568. Buelda, valley of, 175. Buen Jesus, 265. Retiro, 44. Buena, river, 241. Buena Vista, 346, 548. Buenache, 132, 136. de la Sierra, 136. Buenaventuranza, 168. Bufador del Papa, 493. Baitrago, 183. Buixcarro, 466. Buja, Montana del, 450. Bull-fights [65], details [66]- [ 71 ]. at Madrid, 37. at Puerto de Santa Maria, 35 7 - at Ronda, 442. - — at Seville, 322. Bulls of Baetica, 358. Buonaparte, march to Madrid, 183; at Fuencarril, 183; march from Madrid to Bena- vente, 17 1 ; perfidy, 514. Burbia, river, 224. Burdet, Robert, 496. Burgete, 576. Burgo, el, 207, 251, 441, 548. Burgos, i 3 ; history, 1 5 ; cathe- dral, 15; Chapel of the Con- destable, 17 ; cloisters, 18 ; el Cofre del Cid, 18; castle, 18; siege, 19; churches, 20; town hall, 20 ; environs, 21. to Logrono, 178. to Madrid, 180. to Santander, 183. Burriana Stat., 492. Busdongo, 226. Bustamente, J. A., 280. Bustio, 237. Buyeres, 237. c. Caaveirio Convent, 256. Cabanas Stat., 140, 291. de Virtus, 183. , las, 173. Cabanes, 486. Cabeza del Buey, 281. del Griego, 126. de Vaca Stat., 321. Cabezas, las, Stat., 292, 354. Cabezon, 23. Cabo de Gata, el, 450. Cabra Montaraz, 523. Montesa, 526. Cabras, val de, 132, 133. Cabrera, 223. Andre de, 101. , island of, 604. , la, 183. Cabrillas, las, 134. CAMPO. Cacabelos, 219, 251. Caceres, 295. Cacin, 441. Cadiar, 451. Cadiz : aspect, inns, 358 ; his- tory, 359; cathedrals, 360; los Capuchinos, 360 ; church, museo, library, alameda, ramparts, 361 ; botanical garden, bay, 361 ; steam communications, 362. , to Gibraltar, 370. * to Seville by rail, 354. * — to Seville by steam, 363. Caesar at Monda, 437. at Cadiz, 359. * Borgia, 28, 467. Cal de Moron, 447. Calabria, Duke of, 467. Calaf Stat., 529. Calahorra, 566. to Arnedillo, 564. Calamonte Stat., 300. Calasparra Stat., 459. Calatanazor, 208. Calatayud, 549. * to Teruel, 138. Calatarao, 549. Calazada, la, Stat., 292. Caldares, river, 560. Caldas, las, 232, 521. de Besaya,x75. de Cuntis, 267. de Reyes, 267. Calder, Sir Robert, 266. Calderon, Rodrigo, 27. Caldelas Stat., 270. Caldetas, 521. Calera Stat., 291. Cales, 35 9: Gaddir, Gades, 359. Caleseros, 457. Calixtus III., 467. Callosa de Segura, 483. Cailos y menudes, 347. Calpe, 374. Calvario, el, 340. Calzada Stat., 207. , Santo Domingo de la, 179. de Don Diego, 149. de Valdunciel, 144. Calzadilla, 149. Camallera Stat., 518. Camara, Santa, 227, 229. Camargo, cave, 177. Camarin, 92. Camas, 291, 365. Cambre, 251. Cambrils, 495. Camillo, 526. Camino de Plata, in, 143, 144. Caminos reales, [9], 199. Campana, Pedro, [44]. Campanario Stat., 281. Campanulas Stat., 431. Campbell, Sir Colin, 384. Campero, Juan, 101. Campillo Stat., 153. de Altobuey, 133. Campo, 561. de Criptana, 465. de Montiel, 309. INDEX. 304e CAMPOMANES. Campomanes Stat., 226. Campo-Romo, 223. Camprodon, 524. Campus Stellas, 258. Canada Stat., 280. , la, 32. Canal of Aragon, 518. de Ano, 197. de Castilla, 206. de San Cdrlos, 244, 246. Canamero, 301. Canas, las, 410. Canaveral, 295. Canda, 273. Candeal, 2. Candil, del, 408. Cane, 521. Cangas de Onis, 237, 240. de Tineo, 250. Canigu, the, 535. Cano, Alonso, [50], 27, 57, 62, 75 , 79 - , carving, 41 1. , pictures, 341, 41 1. , murder of his wife, 27, 481. Canos de Carmona, 346, 429. Cantalapiedra, 153. Cantillana casa, 339. Capara, arch of, 298. Caparioso, 570. Capileira, 424. Capilla real, 334. Capitulas, salas de los, 92. Caracollara Stat., 280. Carabanchel, 85. Caranga, 249. Carbajal de la Encomienda, 223. Carbajales, 148, 274. Carballino, 272. Carballo, 254. Carbayin Stat., 235. Carcajente, 468. to Gandia, 468. Carcel del Pilatos, 497. della Reina, 404. Cardedeu, 522. Cardena, San Pedro de, 22. Cardenales, 271. Cardenas, venta de, 310, 393. Cardona, 523, 528. Carduchi, V., [45], 64. Cares, river, 243 . Caridad, la, Seville, 341. Carinena, 139. Carlos, Don, 91, 190, 576. , San, 357, 602. de la Rapita, 550. Carmelitas descalzas, ch. of, i 6 4 > 395 , 4 ° 7 - , Convent of, 567. Carmenes, 429. Carob tree, 456. Carolina Stat., 153. Carpinteros, val de, 149. Carpio, 153, 312. Carraca, la, 357. Carracedo el Real, 222. Carral, 265. Carrasca de Barrega, 164. Carratraca, 364. [ Spain , Pt. I., 1882 .] CASTILLEJO. Carregado Stat., 288. Carrena, 243. Carreno de Miranda, J. de, [48], 57* 58, 66,75, 248. Carreteria, la, 349. Carril, 267. Carrion, rio, 171, 206. de los Cespedes Stat., 3 65 - de los Condos, 173. Cartagena, 461 . to Alicante, 483. * to Madrid, 459. Cartaja, 368. Cartama, 431. Carta-pueblo of Aviles, 248. Carteia, 371, 380, 445. Carter, F., 371, n. Carthaginians in Spain, 454. Cartilana, 560. Carts, Sp., 346. Cartuja of Granada, 415. of J erez, 3 56. de Miraflores, 22. of Portaceli, 481. of Seville, 321, 345 , 3 50. Carvajal, J. and P., 293, 394. Carvings by Cano, 41 1. Casa Blanca, 548. del Campo, 84. del Carbon, 414. del Cordon, 21. del Gallo, 414. de Pilatos, 339. del Principe de Arriba, 95. del Rey Moro, 443. Casablanca, 389. Casal Stat., 266. Casaraboneia, 442. Casar, 295. Casariche Stat., 430. Casas Consistoriales, 194. del Cuervo, 355. de Millan, 295. del Puerto, 143. Viejas, las, 371. Cascales, J., 497. Cascante, 574. Casetas, las, Junct., 549, 569. Casiri, Miguel, 93. Caseta del Principe de Abajo, 95 . Casatejada Stat., 292. Castanado, lago de, 222. Castanos at Bailen, 31 1. Castejon Junct., 570. to the Baths of Fitero, 5 70. : to the Baths of Grabalos, 570. to Soria, 570. Castel de Ferro, 452. de Fils Stat., 517. Castellon de la Plana, 486, 493. to Morelia, 486. Castil-Gregos, 135. Castile heat and dust, 2. Castileja de la Cuesta, 352. Castiles, the, 2. Castilian language, 105, 306. 1 Castilla la Vieja, 1. Castillejo Junct., 125, 308, 393, 465. CHECA. Castro Contrigo, 223. Dozon, 273. Gonzalo, 169, 274. Nuno, 144, 165. tlrdiales, 197. de Vilasanche, 256. Castro vite, 273. Castuera, 281. Catalan character, 488; cos- tume, 488 ; hatred of France, 489; rebellions, 489. Catalonia, 487 ; books on, 490. Catella Stat., 521. Catorraja, 468. Catvira Stat., 267. Caudete, 137, 463. Caulaincourt, Gen., 127. Cava la, 13, 108, 435. Caxes, E., [45], 61. Cea, 272 ; river, 207. Ceca, la, 317. de Cordova, 318. Celanova, 271. Celedonia, San, 567. Celia, 138. Cellini, B., 93. Celma, J. B., 293. Celoni Stat., San, 522. Celorico, 15 1, 152. Celra Stat., 518. Celtiberian, the, 489. Ceneya, Herreria de, 241. Cenia, 487. Cenicero Stat., 568. Centellas, 524. Cepero, Dean, 337. Cerbeza con limon, 35. Cerda, la, 551. Cerdedo, 268, 272. Cerecinos, los, 169. Cerezo, M. de, 57. de Abajo, 183. Cerraja Stat., 428. Cervantes, 27, 83, 309, 555. , house of, 83. Cervatos, 174. Cervera, 529. Cestona, n, 194, 199. Cesuras Stat., 251. Cesures, el Puente, 267. Cespedes, Pablo de, 314, 319, 339 . Cetina, 551. * to Gibraltar, 385. Ceuta, 385. Chacoli, 186, 197. Chamorra, 2, 256. Chancery, Sp., 414. Chanseca, 287. Charlemagne, 518, 576. Charles I., 101. HI., 49- V., 101, no, 177; his armour, 50; his body, 90, 294; at Cordova, 318 ; palace of, 401 ; at Yuste, 294. X., 96. Charro y charra, 151. Charuga, forest of, 561. Chateau en Espagne, 401, Checa,'i35. Y 304 / INDEX. CHEESES. Cheeses, Sp., 245. Chia, 561. Chiclana, 358, 370, 381. Chidrian, San, to Madrid, 171. Chileches Stat., 492. Chillon, 303. Chinchilla Junct., 459, 465. Chinchon, Conde de, 101. Chirivel, 482. Chiva, 134. Christina, Queen, 96, 126, 514. Christopher, St., 331. Chronological tables, [30]. Churriana, 439. Churrigueresque style, [56]. Churruca, C., 193, 255. Churruchias, palacio de los, 268. Cid, the, 15, 20, 183, 437; co- fre del, 18; crucifix, 156; daughters, 470 ; house, 18 ; tomb, 22 ; at Valencia, 438 ; Zamora, 145. Ciempozuelas Stat., 308, 393, 4 ^ 4 . Cierva, la, 132. Cies, 268. Cieza, 459. Cigars, 347- Cigarreras, 347. Cigarrosa, 223. Cillorigo defile, 243. Cinta, la, of Tortosa, 495. Cintruenigo, 564. Cirio, Pasqual, 330. Cisneros, Card., 555. Stat., 207. Cisterns, M., 400. Ciudad, 279. Encantada, 132. Real, 279. Rodrigo, 149. , excursions from, 15 1. Ciudadela, 602. Claude Lorraine, 66, 68. Clavijo, 130, 568. Clemente, San, 600 , S. Rojas, 364. Clergy of Seville, 335. of Toledo, 1 14. Climate of Spain, [15]. of Malaga, 433. of Seville, 325. of Valencia, 455. Clot Stat., 522. Clunia, 18 1. Coa, river, 152. Coal mines, 174, 353, 550. Cobertorada, 568. Coca, 170. Cochineal, 459. Cochrane, Lord, 520. Cod-fish, salted, 349. Coello, Claudio, [51], 57, 91. , Sanchez, [43], 56, 57, 60, 64, 101. Coger la Verbena, 345. Coin, Sp., 51, 3^3. Coins, Moorish, 386. Colbatd, 517. Colegiata of la Granja, 96. Collantes, [46], 58. __ CORDOVA. i Colmenar, 97, 439. Colombres, 237. Colon, tomb of, 329. Colonia, J. de, 22. Colonna, Santa, 525. Columbina, la, 327. Columbus, 418, 513; at Palos, 366 ; at Salamanca, 160 ; death, 27 ; MS., 327. Colunga, 236. Comares tower, 402. Comillas, 238. Comparsas y Rocas, 457. Compludo, convent, 221. Complutensian Bible, 555. Complutum, 555. Compostella, Santiago de, 258, 264. Comuneros, los, 100, 161, 168. Conca de Berbera, 502. Concejos, 201. Concentaina, 484. Concepcion la, 437. Concepciones by Murillo, 338. Conde de Castilla, 15. , Duque de Olivarez, the, 166, 557- de Espana, 514. Condestable, el, 116. Conduct, hints on, [36]. Concud, 137. Conejera, 604. Confessionals, 260. Congost, valley, 522. Congreso, el, 76. Conil, 381. , Venta de, 358. Conscription, Sp., 185. Consejos, Casa de los, 77. Consulado del Mar, 513. Contemporary sovereigns, [33]. Contreras, 181. Convention of Bailen, 312. Convent of Montserrat, 515. de la Pena, 563. of San Marcos de Leon, 214. of San Salvador, 237, 247. of Villafranca, 220. Convento del Almoraima and Castellar, 380. del Cuervo, 379. de San Domingo, 409. of los Dominicos, 270. Convents in the Vierzo, 220. Conversational phrases, [34]- [ 36 ]. Conveyancing, M., 409. Convict stations, Sp., 385, 557. Copper mines, 311, 367. Cor, 251. Corao, 241. Corcubion, 265. Corcul, bridge of, 224. Corderos de Pas 011 a, 347. Cordilleras, las, 200. Cordova, 313 ; historical notice, 31?; cathedral, 315; plan, 316; the belfry tower, 319; capilla de Villaviciosa, 317; Bishop’s palace, CRUZ. churches, 319 ; excursions* 320. Cordova to Belmez, 321. to Carratraca, 364. to Malaga, 430. to Seville, 321. , Gonzalo de, 262, 408, 4165, 428, 430. Cordovese horses, 312. Cordwain, 320. Corella, 564. Coreses Stat., 144. Coria, 295, 363. Corias, 250. Cork wood, the, 380. Corn and dry measures, [6].. Cornia, Talayot, 600. Corueja, la, 143. Cornejo, P. D., 319, 416. Cornelia, 504. Cornellana, 249. Corolla, 236. Coronil, 447. Corporales at Daroca, 138. Corpus at Valencia, 473. Corral del Conde, 340. Corrales, 144, 367. , los, 175. Correggio, 65. Correses, 165. Cortadura, la, 363. Cortes, 569. , Hernando, 281, 35 2, 366* valley, 445. Cortijo de la Java, la, 370. Coruna del Conde, 181. , la, 251 ; battle, 253. to El Ferrol, 254. * — to Lugo, 251. to Santiago, 265. Costume, change of, 40. Cotillas Stat., 459. Coto del Rey, 369. misto, 271. Council of Illiberis, 417. Court of Lions, 405. Courtesy, forms of, Sp., [39O- Covadonga, 241. Covarrubias, 180. , Alonso de, 108, 112, 117, 159. , Diego de, 101. Crato, 287. Creu Alta, 527. Cristina de Lena, Santa, 226. Cristo de Beyrut, 475. de Burgos, 17. ■ de las Cadenas, 232. de la Vega, 107. Cristobal, San, 221, 273. , the mountain, 286, 30a, 463. Cross of Pelayus, 230. Crucifying boys by Jews, 120. Crucifix of Burgos, 17. of the Cid, 156. of Valencia, 47-1 . de los Angelos, 230. del Campo, 340. del Puerto, 448. Cruz de la Victoria, 2 30- INDEX. CRUZ. Cruz, la Yera, 102. , Santa, convent, ioj. de Montaos, 265. de Mudela, 310. Cuar de Baza, 482. Cuatro Reinos, los, 305. Cubo, el, 144. Cuchillos, Senora de los, 25. Cucufat, S., 263. Cudillero, 248. Cuenca, 126; history, walks, 127; cathedral, 128; burial- chapel of the Mendozas, 130; capilla de N a * S a * del Sa- grario, 130 ; Bishop’s palace, old houses, 131; worthies, 132 ; excursions, 132. * — to Madrid, 125, 135. to Teruel, 1 36. to Valencia, 133. Cuervo, river, 135. Cuesta, Gen., at Merida, 282 ; Talavera, 141. de las lagrimas, 418. Cueva de Auseva, 241. — — del Gato, 444. de Sn. Ignacio, 528. — — del Judio, 132. de Mengal, 428. de Monacor, 590. de Montesinos, 309. del Oro, 486. - — de Petro Cotillas, 132. Rubia, 137. , Santa, 49?. Cuevas, las, 486. of Siguli, 485. , near Cuenca, 132. Cufic inscription, 401. Cugat del Valle, San, 514. Culera, 517. Cullera, 468, 485. Cuna, la, 345. Curtis, 251. Custodia, Guadalupe, 302 ; Se- ville, 329; Cadiz, 360. Custom-houses and officers, [3]. Cypresses of Generalise, 408. D- Dagger, Sp., 4 6 5- Daimiel, 279. Danza prima, 202. Daoiz, L., 43. Daroca, 138. Darro, river, 397, 410. Decree of Andujar, 312. Dehesas, 219. Delicias, las, 348. Denia, 485. Derechos de Puerta, 3 52. Descalzas, 31, 79. Descent of the Virgin, 114. Despena-perros, 310. Deva, 234 ; river, 174, 193, 198, 233, 243. Devil’s Bridge, 99, 500, 503. Deya, 590. Dia del Corpus, 457. Dial, sun, at Yuste, 294. EO. Diana, temple of, 492. Dientes, de la Vieja, 442. Diezma, 448. Diligences,' Sp., [9]. Dilettante tours, [26]. Diputados, el congreso de, 76. Direction of letters, [41]. Disco of Theodosius, 300. Dobillo, 243. Dobra, river, 240. Dolmen, Celtic, 256. Domecq wine, 35b. Domenichino, 65. Domingo de Silas, S°-, 181. Don Benito Stat., 281. Juan, 345. Dormer, Jane, 300. Dornajo, el, 419. Dos de Mayo, 43, 79. Dragonera, 604. Drake, Adm., at Vigo, 269. Dress, [37]. Duero, the, 148, 152, 274. Duhesme, F. Gen., 514, 520. Dulcinea del Toboso, 465. Dupont, F. Gen., 312. Durandal, 49. Durango decree, 195. Durcal, 447, 451. Dutch pictures, 68. Dynasties, Moorish, 314. E. Eagle catchers, the 87th, 384 Ebro, river, 174, 487, 541, 569. , Fuente de, Stat., 548. Ecclesiological tour, [23]. Eccharri-Aranaz, 578. Echaverri, P., defeat of, 312. Ecija, 321, 426. Education, Sp., [15]. Egregious doctor, 213, 323. Eibar, 11, 195. Elche, 483 ; its palms, 483. to Alicante, 484. Elda, 463. Elena Santa, Stat., 310, 393. Elgoibar, 195. Elio, Sp. Gen., 480. Eliot Treaty, 568. Eliott, Gen. E., 374. Elizondo, 580, Elorrio, 198. Elqueta, 198. Elvas, 287. Elvetea, 580. Embalire valley, 526. Embroidery in crewels, 520. Emeterio, San, 567. Empalme Junct., 321, 521. to Barcelona, 521. Emplazado, el, 394. Empleado, el, 40. Encierro, el, 349* Encina, la, Junct. Stat., 463,466. Encineta Monte, 564. Engracia, S a -, 13. Enol, lago de, 242. Entomology, 278. Eo, river, 247. 3040 EZPELETA. Epila, 549. Epistola, lado de, 319, 330. Eras del Cristo, 416. Eresma, 97, 102, 170. Ercilla, Alonso de, 194. Erice, 578. Ermita de los Angeles, 557. Emma, 195. Erustes Stat., 140, 291. Esacena Stat., 365. Escabas, river, 132, 13 £, 136. Escalada, S. Miguel de, 216. Escaldas, 526. Escalente, 58. Escarilla, 560. Esclavina, 262. Esclavitud, 266. Escorial, el, Stat., 32. Escouial, the, 86 ; size, eleva- tion, ravages, 87 ; church, 89 ; monuments, pictures, relics, 89 ; tombs, 90 ; cloisters, 91 ; library, 93 ; royal palace, 94. to Madrid 32, 86. Escoriaza, 199. Escovedo, Juan, 99. Esera, river, 561. Esfoyanas. 202. Esla, river, 148, 274. Eslonza Stat., Oloja de, 216. Espadan, 4Q?. Espartero, Badomero, 196, 567. Esparto grass, 453. Espeleta, 580. Espeluy Stat., 312, 394. Espiel Stat., 321. Espina, la, 250. Espinel, Vicente de, 444. Espinosa, 553. , I. G., 478. de Villagonzalo, 174. Espfritu, Santo, 303. Espluga Stat., 502. Essex, Lord, 359. Estaciones, las, 340. Esteban, San, 103, 159. Estella, 577. Estepa, 427. Estepona, 379, 438. Estivariz, hermitage of, it. Estremadura, 275. Etienne, St., de Baigorry to Pamplona, 575. Eugenio, 107. Eulalia, S a *, of Barcelona, 509, 514. of Merida, 282. de Oscos, 247. of Oviedo, 229. Eume, rio, 254. Euphemia, S a> , 271. Europa point, 379. Evangelical work in Sp. [75.] Evangelio, lado de, 89, 115. Evans, Gen., 177. Eve of St. John, 410. Evil eye, 399. Eyck, van, 73. Ezpeleta, 580. 7 2 304ft INDEX. FABRIC A. F. Fabrica de Armas, 122. de Tabacos, 347. Facundo, San, 271. Fair of S. Isidro, 84. Falcone, 58. Falconera tunnel, 517. Fans, 416. Farnese, Elizabeth, 45. Farragos, N a * S a * de, 271, Favila, 240. Fe, la, 326. , Santa, 418. Feijoo, Padre, 23 I. Felguiera, 234. Felipe, San, 466. Feliu, San, 466, 520. de Llobregat Stat., 504. Ferdinand IV., death, 394. VI., 97. VII.. 79. 94, 96. — , St., 324, 334 ; effigy, 49. and Isabella, tombs, 412 ; marriage, 529. Feria de Madrid, 78. de Ronda, 444. de Santi Ponce, 352. ■ de Sevilla, 345. Fermin, San, 572. Fernan Nunez, 430. Fernando, San, 358, 370, 557. to Algeciras, 380. to Medina Sidonia, 370. to Tarifa, 370. Ferreiras, Venta de, 602. Ferrer, San Vicente de, 109, 327, 457- Ferrol, el, 254; excursions from, 256. Fever of Gibraltar, 376. Fiametta of Ariosto, 466. Fiera, la, 457. Fiestas Reales, 40. de Calle, 457. Figaro, *29. Figs of Spain, 410. Figueira Slat., 287. Figueras, 518. Figueroas, 300, Filabres, Sierra de, 4*0. Filgueira Stat., 270. Fin del romaje, 264. Finisterre, 266. Fioda, 231. Fishing tour, [21]. Fitero, 565. Flemish pictures, 68. Florentina, Saint, 460. Floresta Stat., 503. Florez, his works, 83. Florida Stat., 235. Florida, la, 32, 250. Fiossa Stat., 518. Fluvia, river, 487. Fojo, 2-7 3. Fonda, [12]. Fondak, el, 388. Fons divinus, 427. Fontibre, 174. Forma Santa, 91. GALLEGOS. Forment, Damian, 544, 558. Formentera, 604. Fornells Stat., 52 r. Fort Lippe, 287. Fossils, [64]. Fountain of S. Ildefonso, 97. Foy, F. Gen., 579. Fraga, 532. Fraguas, 175. Francis I. at Madrid, 40; breach of word, 40 ; sword, 49 ; at Alcaic, 555. Frayle, el, 482. Fregenal, 290. Fregeneda, 152. French School, 68. Freneda, 151. Fresco, tomar el, 361. Frias, 136. Fricira Stat., 270. Fromista, 173. Frontera Stat. 287. Froylan, San, 209, 2 ti. Fructuosa, San, 222. Fuencarril, 183. Fuengirola, 439. Fuenlabrada Stat., 291. Fuenmayor Stat., 180, 568, Fuensauca, 565. Fuent'a Santa, 237. Fuenteduena de Tajo, 125. . del Cano, 164. de Cantos, 291. del Frayle, 132. del Gato, 482. Guinaldo, 15 1. • la Higuera, 466. de Magdalena, 394. de Piedra, 430. de San Esteban, 149. Fuenterrabia, 6. Fuentes, Stat., 426 ; church, 235. de Onoro, 151, 152. del Rey, 132. Fuero de Jaca, 563. Fueros of Barcelona, 518. , Basque, 194. de Sobrarbe, 533, 537. Fuggers, the, 280. Fundicion, la, of Seville, 347. Furad mico, 528. Fyt, J., 70, 71. G. Gabas, 561. Gaddir, 359. Gadea, S a , 20. Gaditanse improbac, 359. Gador, 449. • , Sierra de, 451. Galapagar, 86. Galar, 577. Galego, Juan, 102. Galeron, river, 175. Galicia, kingdom of, 204. Galicians, the, 204. Galizano, 198. Gallego, river, 560. Gallegos, 152. GIRANDILLO. Gallegos, Fuente de los, 223. Gallocanta, lake of, 1 39. Gallur Stat., 569. Gamba, la, 331. Gandia, 485. Gandul, Stat., 429. Garaf Castle, 517. Garcilaso, [59]. Garganta, 523. Garray, Puente de, 569. Garriga, la, Stat., 524. Garrovilla, la, 283. Garrovillas, 295. Gaucin, 445. Gaya, river, 503. Gayates, 493. Gazalos, 577. Gazpacho, 439, 456. Gebal Tarik, 347. Gelida, 503. Gelmirez, Archbishop, 258. Genadio, S., 221. Generacion, la, 331. Generaliffe, 408, Genii, 397, 409, 430. Geography, physical and mili- tary, [73]. Geology, abstract of Sp., [63]. of Catalonia 488. George, St., 484. Georges Sand, 589. Gerica, 139. Gerona, 518. to Barcelona, 521. * — to Perpignan, 517. Geronimo, Bp., 156. , San, Convent of, 416. , Monte, 517. Geryon, his bulls, 358, 535. Gesta, la, 273. Getafe, 308, 393, 464. Gibalfaro. 435. Gibraleon, 370. Gibraltar, 372; money, police, 37 3; history, 374; new Mole, 37?; population, bay, 375; climate, 37 5 ; fortifications, 377; rock, 377; la Silleta, St. Michael’s Cave, 378; Ala- meda, 378; Europa point, 379; excursions, 379; steam communication, 380. ♦Gibraltar to Cadiz, 370. to Ceuta, 385. to Ronda, 444. to Tangiers and Tetuan, 385. Gigantes, 573. Gigiiela, river, 126. Gijon, 233. , excursions from, 234. * — , to Oviedo, 233. Gil Bias, 1 01, 238. Gindibon, rio, 265. Gineta, la, Stat., 465. Ginzo de Limia, 273. Giordano, 58, 92. Giorgione, 67. Gipsy dances, 345, 395, 482. Giralda, la, 325. Girandillo, el, 326. INDEX. 304i GLORIA. Gloria, la, 92. Gloria, the, of Titian, 64. Gobantes, 364, 430. Godoy, Manuel, 94, 96, 364, 485. Goles, 345. Gomeclo Stat., 153. Gomez-Narro, 28. Gongora, Luis de, 314. Gonzalez, Conde F., 15, 20, i8r. Gonzalo de Cordova, 262, 408, 416. Gor, Yenta de, 481. Gorro, 488. Gossaert (Mabuse), 67. Gothalunia, 489. Gough, Lord, 384. Govas, 186. Goya, [52],. 59. 7 b 75- Gradas, las, 328. Gradefes, 216. Grado, 250. Graena, 449. Graham, Gen., at Barossa, 381. Grajal, 207. Gramanet, S a * Coloma de, 522. Granada, 395; hotels, 395; carmenes, guides, 395 ; car- riages, 39b; history, 396; Alhambra, 397 ; plan, 398 ; Torre del Justicia, 398; Torre de la Yeda, 400 ; inscriptions, 401 ; Mezquita, 403 ; Sala de los Embajadores, 403 ; baths, 404 ; Court of Lions, 405 ; Sala de Justicia, 406; Santa Maria, 407 ; the Generali ife, 408; Museo, 409; campillo, public walks, 409 ; “ cathe- dral, 41 1 ; chapels, 411; royal sepulchres, 412 ; the Zacatin, 413 ; Cartuja con- vent, 415 ; San Geronimo, 416 ; the Great Captain, 416; excursions, 417. Granada to Adra, 450. to Almeria, 448. * — to Cordoba, 430. to Lanjaron, 419. * — to Madrid, 393. * — to Malaga, 439, 440. to Motril, 447. to Murcia, 481. to Pinos Puentos, 417. * — to Seville, 426. , kingdom of, 391. , la, Stat., 503. Gran Capitan, el, 428. See Gonzalo de Cordoba. Grande Bio, 448, 451. Granen Stat., 539. Granja, la, 95, 219, 274. Granollers, 522. Grao, el, 480, 495. Graus, 561. Gravalos, 566. Gravina, Adm., 362 ; dying speech, 382. Greco, el [46], [57], 65, 107, no. Grijota, 2o6. Grinon Stat., 291. HERNANDEZ. Grisen, 549. Groyne, the, 251 . Guadajoz Stat., 321. Guadalhorce, 431, 439. Guadalajara, 553. , excursions from, 555. Guadalete, river, 357, 447. Guadalquivir, river, 311, 325, 363. Guadalupe, 301. to Almaden, 30?. , convent of, 301 ; plun- ! dered by Victor, 302. Guadalvin, river, 443 . Guadamar, 1 23, 466. Guadarrama, 95, 171. ’Sierra, 86, 95, 171; pas- sage of, 171. Guadiana, ojos del, 309 ; river, 281. Guadiaro, 446. Guadiela, river, 136. Guadirao, venta del, 438. i Guadix, 448,481. Gualba Stat., 522. Gualchos, 452. Guarda, 151, 152. Guardias civiles, [14]. Guarena Stat., 281. Guarnizo, 176. Guerillero, the, 390. Guerendiain, 570. Guernica, 193. Guesalibar, 199. GuetariaJ >port of, 192. Guethary, 5. Guevara, Castillo de, 11. L. de, 572. Guido, 65. Guim, Sant, 529. Guipuzcoa, 184. Guisando, convent, 31. — — toros de, 31, 99. Guiteriz, 251. Gumiel, Pedro, 556. de Izan, 182. Guzman el Bueno, 445. tomb, 351. H- Hacha, la, 494. Hacho, el, 3 77* Hams, Sp., 204, 258, 270, 293, 451. Hannibal, 154, 491, 5°3 Haro Stat., 568. Hedionda, 438. Hellin, 459. Henares, river, 551. Hendaye, 6, Plerbes, 265. Hercules, 99, 535 ; cave of, 122 ; statue, 99 ; temple, 357; Torre de, 252. Herguijela, 299. Hermanas, Dos, Stat., 354, 426, 578. Hermida, la, 244. Hermitages of Cordova, 320. | Hernandez, 27. ILLAN. Hernani, 11. Hernio mts., 196. Herrera, el Mozo, [51], 58, 335. el Viejo, [50], 33 9> 34 8 - , J. de, 87, 239- Stat., 174. Herreruela Stat., 298. Hiendelaencina, 553. Higueruela, battle of, 94, 417. Hijar, Puente de, Stat.* 548. Hill, Lord, at Almarez, 292. i Himilce, 3ir. Hispalis, 323. Hi span, 98. Holy Fennel, 466. Honey of Valencia, 456. Horcajada, 126. Horchata de Chufas, 35- Hormiguera valley, 174. Hornachuelos, 321. Hornilla, rio, 168. Horta, 522. Hospital del Bey, 21. Hospitalet, 495, 504, 526. Hospitals, Sp., 81. Hostal, 603. Hostalrich, 521. Hostia of Lugo, 225. Houssaye, la, F. Gen., 114. Hoya, la, 481. de Machado, 133. Hoyo, el, 430. Huarte, 576. — - Araquil, 578. Huecar, 127, 132. Huelgas, las, 21. Huelmos, 144. Huelva, 366. Huerta, 164, 308, 393, 55*- , near Arcos, 551. de Alcira, 468. de Alicante, 464. del Bey, 181. de Murcia, 453, 460. de Valdecara, 465. de Valencia, 134,455, 468, 471. Huesca, 558; history, 558; cathedral, 558 ; church, 559; university, Palacio de los Beyes de Aragon, 559; ex- cursions, 560. * — to Zaragoza, 558. Hue tor, 418. de Santillan, 448. Tajar Stat., 428. Hueva Stat., 365. Humanes Stat., 291, 553. Humilladero, 346. I Ibn Abdallah, 310. Ibnu-l-ahmar, 39 b 397* Ignacio Loyola, 528. See Lo- yola. Igualada, 529. Igurquiza, 577. Ildefonso, San (La Granja) ,'95, 96, 117. Ilian Cebolla, 140, 291. 304 h INDEX. ILLESCAS. Illescas Stat., 291. Illiberis, 417. lllora Stat., 428. Dehesade, 417. Oruel, 562. Image of Santiago, 264. of the Virgin, 119, 264. Imaz, J., 284. Infants of Antequera, 427. Infantes de la Cerda, 467. Infesta, 273. Infiesto, 236, 237. Inns, [12]. Inosa, 188. Inquisition, Sp., 347. Inscriptions, Arabic, 399, 401, 403, 404, 405, 407. Invalids, hints to, [15]. Invincible Armada, 234, 253. Iregua valley, 569. Irene, S a- , 287. Iriarte, [50], 429. Irun, 6. Irurita, 580. Irurzun, 578. Isabel, Sta., 224. de Solis, 391. Isabella II., 96, 99. la Catolica, ioi, 168, 411 ; at Baza, 481 ; death, 28. Iscala, 144. Isidoro, San, 212, 213.' Isidro, San, 78 ; appears as a shepherd, 116, 310. del Campo, 84. Isla Liana, 569. - — de Leon, 358. . la, 35 7 - Mayor and Menor, 363. Isle de la Conference, 6. Isobol defile, 523. Italian School, 63. Italica, 291, 35 r. Iviza, 604. Izarra Stat., 188. J Jabalcuz, 394. Jabea, 486. Jaca, 562. * to Zaragoza, 562. Jadraque, 553. Jaen, 394. Jaime Castellnou, 471. the Conqueror, 472, 502. I., 476, 493, 581. Jamones, 277. Janitore, 362. Janqueta, 437. Jarama, river, 125, 557. J ati va, 466. See Xativa. Javalambre chain, 139. Javalquinto Stat., 311, 393. Jean de Luz, St., Stat., 5. Jereed, 410. Jerez de los Caballeros, 290. de la Frontera, 355. i to Arcos, 369. Jericho, 139. Jerte, valley of, 292. . LANNES. Jesuits, the, 428. Jews of Toledo, 106, 109. Jijona, 484. Jiloca, 138. Jimena, 380. John of Gaunt, 2 53. Jordaens, 67. Jordi, San, Stat., 518. Jorge de Sacas, S., 272. Jota Arragonesa, 534. Jovellanos, 203, 233, 234, 248, 587. Joyosa Stat., 569. Juan, San, de las Abadesas, 524. de Coba, 267. de Dios, San, 416. , Prince, 31,-383. del Puerto, 366, , S n * de la Pena, 563. de los Reyes, San, ic8, 416. B., of Toledo, 87. Juana la Loca, 28, 167, 412. Juanes, J. de, [44], 57-60, 65. , Vicente, 477. Jubilla del Agua, 183. Jucar, rio,|i26, 485. Juderia, la, 109, 340. Julian de Loria, San, 525. Juliana, S a *, 238. Juneda Stat., 503. Juni, Juan de, 101, 168. , house of, 27. Junot, 287. Junquera, 518. Jurdes, las, 299. Justicia, Sp., 341. , Sala de, 406. , Torre de, 399. Justina y Rufina, 246, 327, 333- Justo y Pastor, 557. Juvia, rio, 257. K. Karnattah, 391. Kellermann, Gen., 284. Key, symbol of, 399. Knives, Sp., 465. L. Labajos, 171. Labaro, 326. I Lacara, river, 283. ! Lace factory, 279. j Lacsana, 251. I Lado de la Epistola, 319, 330. Lady of Dew, 369. Lagarto, el. 328. Lagartos, 351. Lage, 273. Laguna, 170. de Janda, 382. • Negra, 132. Lagunas de Ruidera, 309. Lagunilla, 299. Lain Calvo, 15, 20. Langreo, 234. j Lanjaron, 424, 451. i Lannes, Marshal, 548. LIES! ft A. Lantueno, 175. Lanz, 579. Larache, 388. Lardero, 569. Laredo, 197. Laraco, 223. Lasia, Portillo de, 174. Lastonoza, V. J., 558. Lavicus, Mons, 213. Laza, 273. Lazaro, S. de Lloraza, 236. Lead mines, 451. Leal, J. de, [51]. Leandro, San, 302. Lebrija, 354. Lechago, 139.. Lecumberri, 578. Ledesma, baths of, 164. Leganes Stat., 291. Legarda, 577. Legends : Justa y Rufina, 327, 346; the Holy Face, 394; the crucifix of Beyrut, 475 ; Montserrat, 516 ; Loyola, 528; San Lorenzo, 88, 90, 179 ; Eulalia of Merida, 282 ; ark of Pelayus, 296; S. Isidoro, 213; San Juan de la Pena, 563 ; S. Viconte de Ferrer, 457 ; ark of Oviedo, 230; San Isidro, 116, 310; S a * Teresa, 31 ; S** Forma, 91 ; S a - Leo- cadia, 108 ; San Ildefonso, 1 1 7 ; corporales of Daroca, 138; Cristo de Burgos, 17; St. Dominic, 179; El Pillar, 544 ; Voto, 563 ; San Fermin, 572. Leira, 265. Leitariegos, Puerta de, 250. Lejias, 456. Leocadia, San, 108. Leon, 207 ; history, 208 ; cathe- dral, 209 ; plan of, 210 ; San Isidoro, 212; Panteon, 214; San Marcos, 214 ; old houses, 215; excursions, 216. - — to Astorga and Lugo, 216. to Oviedo, 226. * — to Venta de Banos, 206. kingdom of, 200. Leoni, P., 72. Leonora de Guzman, 370. Lepanto, battle of, 93. Lepers, 346. Lequeitio, 193. Lerez, river, 268, 272. L6rida, 530. to Fraga, 532. * to Tarragona, 501. to Zaragoza, 538. Lerma, 180. Lethe, 272. Levi, Samuel, 109. Leyre, monastery of, 573. Librilla, 482. Leza, river, 567. Lezama, 188. Liebana, the, 174. Liedena, valley of, 573. Liestra Stat., 561. INDEX, 304? LILIES. Lilies of the Virgin, 427. Limia, 272. Linares, 310. Linderaja, Patio de, 404, 406. Linea, 371. Lines, the, of Gibraltar, 371, 5 446. Liquid measures, [6]. Lirio, river, 370. Lisbon, 288; earthquake, 382. Literature, Sp., [57]. Lizarza, 578. Llanes, 236, 237. Llano de Comeya, 242. Llansa Stat., 518. de Urgel, 529. Llebana valley, 244. Llinas Stat., 522. Llerena Stat., 301. Llobregat, the, 487, 503. Llosas, las, 175. Lluvia, Algibe, de, 408. Locaitx, 602. Locusts, 278. Lodgings to let, the sign, 35. Loeches, the, 557. Logrosan, 301. Logrono, 567. * — to Burgos, 178. * to Soria, 569. Loja, 428; siege of, 439. Lomet, Gen., 563. Lora del Rio, 321. Lorca, 482. Lorenzana, 279. Lorenzo, San, 87, 90, 179. L'orqui, 459. Lorraine, Claude, 66, 68. Losacino, 274. Losarcos, 577. Lotto, L., 66, Loyola, Ignacio, birthplace, 195; cave, 528; convent, 10, 199 ; house, 10, 195 ; portrait of, 528 ; wounded, 572. Loyola valley, 194. Lozoya, river, 34. Lozoyuela, 182. Luarca, 248. Lubia, 568. Lubian, 273. Lucan, 314. ' Lucar de Barrameda, San, 364. to Portugal, 369. Lucar de Guadiano, 370. , San, 355. la Mayor, San, 365. ‘ Luceni, 569. Luchana, Puente de, 191. Luciferi fanum, 364. Luchon, 562. Luey, 238. Lugo, 224. — — to la Coruna, 251. * — to Leon, 216. to Oviedo, 247. to Santiago, 257. Lugones Stat., 233. Lui?, San, 600. Luisiana Stat., 426. Lumbreras, 569. MAGIN. Luna, Alvaro de, 27, 417. , the Pope, 493. Lunada, Portillada, 174. Lupiana, 555. M. Macael, 450. Macarena, 346. Macharnudo, vineyard, 35b. Machuca, Pedro, 403. Madexa, 324. Madrid, 33; early history, position, 33 ; geology, cli- mate, 34 ; season, 34 ; inns, 35 ; lodgings, restaurants, 35 ; post-office, clubs, theatres, 36 ; carriages, 38 ; shops, 38 ; sight-seeing, squares, 39 ; gates, 40 ; river, 42 ; bridges, promenades, 42 ; gardens, 44; Palace, 45; Sala de los Embajadores, 46 ; libraries, 47, 48 ; stables, 47 ; armoury, 48-51 ; archeological mu- seum, 51-53; Picture Gal- lery, 53; plan of, 55; Spanish school, 56-63 ; Italian school, 63-65 ; Dutch* and Flemish schools, 65-72 ; French school, 68; sculptures, 72; early Spanish and Flemish pictures, 73, 74; Museo Na- tional, 74; San Fernando Academy, 74; Academy of History, galleries, 75; public buildings, 76-78; churches, 78, 79 ; Convent of Atocha, 79; hospitals, 81; La In- clusa, Post-office, 81; Bolsa de Comercio, National Bank, 82 ; University, 82 ; palaces, 82 ; environs, 84; Protestant cemetery, 84 ; Casa del Campo, 84 ; El Pardo, the alameda, 85. Madrid to Alicante, 463. to Aranjuez, 123. to Badajoz, by Ciudad, 279. * — to Burgos, 180. to Caceres, 291. to Cartagena, 459. to Cordova, 308. to Cuenca, 125. to Escorial, 86. to Granada, 393. * — to San Chidrian, 171. to La Granja and Segovia, 86 . to Lisbon, 291. — — to Talavera, 140. to Toledo, 105. to Valencia, 464. * to Zaragoza, 549. Madrigalejo, 301. Maestranza, 349, 444. Maestre de Santiago, el, 336. Magacela, 281. Magelhaens, Ferd., 364. Magin, San, 498. __ MARTIN. Mahon, history, 596 ; churches, 597 ; excursions, 598. , port, 592; plan, 593. Maid of Zaragoza, 547. Maillo, 299. Maimona, los Santos de, 300. Mairena Stat., 429. Majolica, 583. Majorca, 583. Majos, 306, 369. Maksurah, 317. Mala, la, 441. Malabatte, Cape, 388. Maladetta, la, 535. Malaga, 431 ; inns, clubs, 431; theatres, 432; post and telegraph office, 432 ; population, climate, 453 ; history, 4 33 ; cathedral, 434 ; churches, 435; wines, 436; commerce, fruits, 436; fish, steam communications, 437. ^Malaga to Cordoba, 430. to Gibraltar, 437. to Granada, by Lojas, 439. by Alhama, 440. to Ronda, 441. Maldonado, 168. Mallos de Riglos, 560. Malombra, 65. Malpartida, 292. Manacor, 590. Manaria, 197. Mancha, la, 309. Mantilla, de las Mulas, 216. Mandras, 272. Manerm, 577. Manlleu Stat., 524. Manresa, 523, 5 27. Manuel, 468. Manzanares, river, 33, 42, 309. Stat., 279, 309, 3 93. Manzaneda, 249. Manzanilla, 364, 436. Maps, [74]. Maragatos, 201, 218. Marbella, 438. March, Esteban, 478. Marchan river, 440. Marchena Stat., ji 6 . to Ecija, 420. Marcial, San, hill of, 6. Marcilla, 173, 570. Marcos de Leon, convent of San, 214. Maria, Sta. (Andara), 246. Marina, the, 486. Marisma, 363. Mark, Mr., 439. Marmolejo Stat., 312. Marmont, Marshal, 162, 282. Maroto, 196. Marrac, Chateau, ruins of, 5, 580. Marta Monta, 273. Martial, poet, 549. Martin, San, Stat., 524. Martin, San, de Argiielles, 236. del Pedrosa, 274. del Rio, 149. , bridge of, no. ( 304 m MARTINET. Martinet, 523. Martires, los, convent, 408. Martorell, 503. Maside, 272. Masnou, 521. Massena, 149. Mata y quema, 513. Matadero, el, 347. Matalebreras, 564. Matamorosa, 174. Matanegra Stat., 301. Mataro, 521. Mataporquera, 174. Matapozuelos Stat., 27. Mateo, Maestro, 263 . , San, 486. Matillas, 553. Matrimonio, Sanchez de, 314. Mato, Pedro, 217. Mave, 174. Maya, 580. Mazmorras, 429, 495. Mazo, J. B. del, [48], 58, 60. Measures, [5]. Medellin, 281. Medhia, 389. Medina del Campo, 27, 153. to Salamanca, 152. to Segovia, 170. to Zamora, 165. — — Celi, Duke de, 31, 76. de Rio-Seco, 168. Sidonia, 370. Medinaceli, 551. Medio Millar Stat., 367 Mediterranean, 383. Medobriga, 287. Melach, 433. Melcartb, 371. Mellid, 257. Menaclio, R., 284. Mendeja, 193 Mendoza, Card., 116, 120, 194, 331, 400, 412. , J. L. de, 239, 339. Mendozas, the, 130. Menendez, 58. Mengabril Stat., 281. Menjibar, 31 1, 394. . Menorca, 592. Mera, 257. Mercadal, 602. Merchant’s mark, 513. Mekida, 281 ; Roman ruins, 282 ; bridge, aqueduct, 282 ; lago di Proserpina, church of Santa Eulalia, 283. to Seville, 300. to Trujillo, 299. Merino sheep, 103, 275-277. Mera, river, 224, 251. Mesta, 275, 276. Mezquita of Alhambra, 405, 407. of Cordova, 315. Miajadas, 299. Mieres del camino, 227. Miguel, San., 219 ; Stat., 518. de Escalada, 216. de Foces, 560. de Excelsis, 578. INDEX. MONCADA. Miguelturra Stat., 279. Mih-rab, 315, 403, 407. Mijares, river, 139. Milagro Stat., 570. Milicias, Quartel de, no. Millan, San, 179. Mina, Gen., 572. de Ronda, 44?. Minaya, A. F., 553. Stat., 465. Minas, 295, 301, 321. Guadalquivir Stat., 321. del Mundo Stat., 451. de Rio Tinto, 367. de los Posoz, 451. Mine, burning, 321. Mineral springs, [16]. Mines ; ancient, 3 n, 451, 454. of Santa Ana, 235. of Arnao, 248. of Baracaldo, 191. of San Benigno, 244. of Cangas de Onis, 240. , copper, 3 1 1, 367. of Hiendelaencina, 553. , lead, 451. , marble, 197. of Linares, 31 1. of Marbella, 438. of Minglanilla, 154. • near Mondragon, ir, 199. of Murcia, 462. of Pesquera, 175. , quicksilver, 280. of Rio Tinto, 367. of Somorrostro, 197. of Victoria, 257. of Villanueva, 353. of Villar del Saz, 139. Minglanilla, 134, 527. Mingorria, 28. Ministerios, casa de los, 76. Mino, river, 225, 257, mo. Mirabel Stat., 295. Miraflores, 22. Miramar, 589. Miranda, 148. de Ebro Stat., 13, 188. to Bilbao, 188. , Archbishop Carranza de, 118. , J. C. de, 248. Miserere at Valencia, 473. Missal of Westminster Abbey, 472. — Mistala, 134.’ Misto, 271. Mitj y mit.j, 35. Moeche, 257. Mogente, 466. Moguer, 366. Mole of Gibraltar, 375. Molina, 221. de Aragon, 135, 139. Molinas, las, 525. Molins del Rey, 504. Mollerusa, 529. Mombuey, 273. Monasterio, 291. Monbuy baths, 522. Moncada, 522, 527. MOTRIL. Moncayo, range of, 548, 549, 574 - Moncloa, la, 32, 85. Monda, battle, 437. Mondonedo, 247. Mondragon, 199. , mines near, iT, 199. Moneca, la, 241. Moneda, Casa de, 102. Money Sp. [4] ; table of [77].. Monfalco, Murallat, 529. Mongat, 521. Mongo, el, 485. Monistrol, 515, 527. Monja, la, 482. Mon j os, 503. Monkeys of Gibraltar, 378. Monne, Pic de, 562. Monos, los, 378. Monovar Stat., 463. Monreal, 138. Monserrat , monastery of, 515. Montabliz, 175. Montalban castle, 123. Montantes, 49, 50. Montauban, cascade of, 562. Montblanch, 501. Montbrun, F. Gen., 459. Monte Aragon, 140, 291. Olivo, 496. Sacro, 414. Monteras, 144. Montes, San Pedro de, 222. Montesa, order of, 466. Montiel, battle, 309. Montijo, Conde de, 182, 283. Montilla, 430. wine, 430, 436. Montjuich, fort of, 507, 518. Montmelo, 522. Montoro, 312. Montsacopa, 524. Montseny, ascent, 522. Monuments of Seville, 329. Monzon, 538. de Campos, 173. Moore, Sir John, grave, 252. Moorish architecture, 302. Morales, 144, 354. de Toro, 168. , Ambrosio de, 314, 319. , el divino, [44], 60, 67, 75, 283, 286. Morata, 549. Morel, B., 326. Morelia, 486. Morena, Sp. Gen., 435 ; death* 580. Moreria, la, 78. Mores, 549. Morillo de Liena, 561. Moro, Ant., [43], 66, 67. , Silla del, 408. , el Taller del, 122. , ultimo sospiro del, 418, 451. Moron Stat., 446. Moscas Rio, 133. Mosquitos, [13], [38]. Motrico, 193. Motril, 448. j INDEX, 304% MOTRIL. *Motril to Granada, 447. Mountain wines, 456. Muchamiel, 464, 484. Mudarra, la, 168. Mudela, S a * Cruz de, 310, 393. Mudo, el, [45], 92, 179, 567. Muelas, 148, 223. Muga de Alba, 274. Mugairi, 580. Mula, rio, 459. Mulberry trees, 456. Muleta, 592. Muleteers, Arrieros, 457. Mulhaha9en, 423, 451. Mundaca, 194. Munecas, patio de las, 336. Munguia, 194. Munogalindo, 14 j. Murcia, 459 ; cathedral, church, 460. , Kingdom of, 453. gypsies, 482. * to Granada, 481. * to Madrid, 459. Murillo, B. E., [49], 57-60, 62, 63, 68, 74, 75, 338, 34 1 ; house, 340; distinctive styles, 338 ; death, 340, 360. Muros, 248. Murray, Sir John, 579. Murviedro, 140, 491. Muscatels, 436. Muzarabic ritual, 118. N. Nada, rio, 257. Najera, 180. Nalda, 569. Nalon, rio, 235, 241, 2^8. Nanclares de la Oca Stat., 13. Nansa, 174, 238. Naranco, S a * M a * de, 231. Narvaez, alcaide, 427. Nau de Tudons, 602, 603. Nava, 237. Cerrada, 95. del Rey, 144, 165. Navalgrande, 32. Navallo, 273. Navalmorral de la Mata, 292. Navalperal, 32. Navarre, Kingdom of, 536. Navarrese, 537. Navarrete, battle, 180. Navas las, di S. Antonio, 171. del Marques, 32. de Tolosa, battle, 116, 510, 576. Naves, 237. Navia, 248 ; river, 247 ; valley, 249. Nebritsensis, 354, Negro, rio, 273. Negroli, 48. Nelli Fabio, 27. Nelson at Trafalgar, 382. Nervion river, 189. Neskhi, 401. Neulas, 514. Neutral ground, 371, 446, 526., ORENSE. Ney, Marshal, 259. Nicodemus, image carved by, 18, 475. Nicolas, San, 414. Niebla, 365. Nieves, las, Stat., 270. Nino Perdido, 120. Nive, river, 5. Noain Stat., 570. Noblejas Stat., 125. Nodo, el, 324 Nodus Herculis, 324. Nogales, S a> M a ' de, 224. Noja, 198. Norena Stat., 235. Noria, 307. Novelda, 463. Novelists, Sp., [59]. Nueva, 237. Nules, 492. Nuno Rasuro, 15, 20. Nuts, 487. 0 . Oak of Guernica, 194. Obejo Stat., 321. Obelisk of Almansa, 466. Obispo, cerca del, 414. Obona, 250. Oblivion, river of, 272. Oca, river, 15. Ochandiano, 196. Ocana Stat., 125. Odiel, river, 367. Ogijares, 418. Oiguina, 193. Oja, la, 179. Ojala, 306. Ojen, 438. Ojuelos Stat., los, 426. Olague, 579. Oleana, river, 134. Olegarius, Saii, 497, 509. Olesa, 527. Oliana, 523. Olite, 570. Oliva, 298. Olivaez Stat , 288. Olive farm and oil, 35 2, 353. Olivenza, 288* * — to BadajoZj 288. Olivia, 485. Olloniego, 227. Olmedo, 170. Olvera, 446. Ona, 13.' , rio, 518. Ondarroa, 193. Ontaneda, 178, 185. Ontanon, J. G. de, ico. Ontigola Stat., 125. Ora, river, 221. Oranges, 320, 349. , Orbiaiceta, 576. Ordenes, 265. Ordoiio II., 260. Orduna, 188. , excursions from, 189. Orense, 270. to Pontevedra, 272. PALAU. Orense to Santiago, 272. to Zamora, 275. Organs, 523. Orgaz, 123. Oria, river, 192. Orio, 192. Orihuela, 135, 461, 483. Orinon, port of, 197. Orjivar, 451. Orma'istegny, 11. Oroncillo, river, 13. Oropesa, 291, 318. Orospedan Chain, 419. Oroyco, 188. Orento P., 60, 478. Ortega, Juan de, 567. , river, 281. Ortiguerra, S a - M a * de, 25 7.. Oroel, Monte, 560. Osa de Montiel, 309. Osculation, pious, 264. Osebe Stat., 266. Oseja, 241. O’Shea, casa de, 339. Osius, Bp., 417. Osorio, library of, 218. , Urraca, 247, 35 1. la Mayor, 173. Ostiz, 579. Osuna, 358, 426. Otero, 273. Otesa, 527. Otura, 418. Oviedo, 227 ; cathedral, 227 ; area, 229; library, churches, 230; walks, excursions, 230;. university, 232. to Gijon, 233. * — • to Leon, 226. * — to Lugo, 247. to Santander, 236. to Unquera, 239. to Yillafranca del Vierzo, 249 - Owen Jones, 401. Oza, 251. P. Pablo, San, bridge of, 128. , convent, 128. Pacheco, F., 429. Stat., 461. Packe, Mr. C., 419. Padilla, 168. , Maria de, 337. Padron, el, 267. Padul, 447,451. Painted sculpture, Sp., [43]. Painters, chief Sp., 43-53- Painting, school of, [42]. tour, [22]. Paintings in Alhambra, 406. Pajares, 226. Palabea, 265. Palacio de Dona Ana, 369. Palacios del Sil, 251. Palafox, Josd, 540. Palancia, 139. Palanquinos, 207. Palau, 522. 304 o INDEX. PALAZUELOS. Palazuelos, 311. Palenci a, 1*71 ; history, 1 7 1 ; cathedral, 172 ; churches, 173. * — to Santander, 171. Pallas del Rey, 257. Palm trees, 483. Palma, 584; cathedral, 584; old palace, churches, 585 ; Lonja, pictures, 586 ; excur- sions, 587. Palma to Arfc£, 590. to Manacor, 590. to Soller, 591. Stat., 321. , la, 365, 461. Palomera, 132. Palos, 366. Pamplona, 571 ; history, cathe- dral, 571; old houses, 572; the Ciudadela, 573 ; excur- sions, aqueduct, 573. • to Bayonne, 578, 579. to St. Etienne de Baigorry by Roncesvalles, 575. to Logrono, 577. to San Sebastian, 578. * — to Zaragoza, 569. Pancorbo, 13. Panes, 243. Pano, 56?. Pantano de Albufera, 466. de Lorca, 482. de Tibi, 464, 484. Panteon, 90. of Leon, 214. Panticosa, 560. Pantoja, 57, 60. y Alameda Stat., 104. Papiol, 504. Paracuelos de la Ribera, 549. Paradas Stat., 426. Parador de Arriba, 164. Paraiso, val, 320, 527. Parapanda, 400. Pardo, el, 85. Paredes, 568. , D. de, 297. de Nava, 206. Pareja, [48], 61. Parelada Stat., 518. Parga Stat., 251. Paris and Bayonne to Madrid, 4. Parla Stat., 104. Parmigiano, 66, 67. Parra, la, 328. Parral, el, 102. Pasajes, 7. Pasantes, 257. Pasiegas, 239. Paso, el, de tres Puentes, 523. Pasos, 80, 325. Passport and precautions, [3], 287. Patio, 105, 316. de la Alberca, 404. de los Evangelistas, 91. de Linderaja, 406. de la Mezquita, 403. de los Naranjos, 316, 351. Paul, St., of Spain, 494. Veronese, 64. PICTON. Paular, el, 98. Payo, S., 268, 272. Pazos, 273. Pedrera, 427. Pedro el cruel, 184, 309, 321, 336, 370; at Toro, 166. • de Toledo, 220. Abad, 312. Alcantara, 380. de los Duenas, San, 207. , San, 299. Stat., 235. Pedrola Stat., 569. Pedrosa Stat., 321. Pedroso, Monte, 265. Stat., 153, 301. Pega, T52. Peladillas de Alcoy, 484. Pelagius, 21 1. Pelayus, 21 1, 227,230, 240, 242. Pelleas, 144. Pembroke, Lord, 87. Pena del Ciervo, 382, 383. de Francia, 299. la, Stat., 428. Uncion tunnel, 175. valley, 189. Penaflor, 321. Pena Golossa, 139, 493. Penalara, la, 95, 98. Penalva, Santiago de, 221. de Castro, 18 1. Penaranda de Duero, 182. Penarroya Stat., 281. Pendentives, stalactical, 402. Peniscola, 493. Penon de los Enamorados, 428. Peralejos de las Truchas, 135. Perales, 125. Peralta, Archbp., 17. , M. P. de, 570. town, 570. Pereda, 59. Pereira, 272. Perella, caves of, 604. Perez, Antonio, 547. Perla, la, 59, 91. Perpignan , 517. to Barcelona by Gerona, 5i7- Perruca, la, 226. Pesquira, 175. Pesues, 238. Peterborough, Lord, 507. Petrel, 463. Petronilla, 533. Pharos, 252. Philip II., 89, 94; birthplace, 27 ; death, 94 ; marriage, 161. IV., El Grande, 90 ; statue of, 41 ; portraits of, 60, 62. V., 96, 97, 530, 547. Phoenician policy, 454. Phosphate of lime, 281, 295, 301. Pickman, Mr., 345, 35 o. Picos de Europa, 238, 243. del Ferro, 245. Sacro, 273. de Veleta, 419. I Picton, 152, 579. POSADA. Pic de Concha, 175. Piedra, monastery of, 550. Piedrafita, Puerta de, 223. Piedrahita, 143. Pigeon-fanciers, 480, 509. Pig's, Sp., 277. Pilar de Zaragoza, 544. Pilatos, Casa de, 339. , Carcel de, 497. Pilde, rio, 182. Pilgrims to Compostella, 264. Pillars of Hercules, 385. Pilona, river, 237. Pina de Campos, 173. Stat., 548. Pineda, Maria, 409, 415. Pineira de Arcos, 273. Pinor, 273. Pinos, bridge, 428. Pinto, 308, 393, 464. Pisuerga, 23, 167, 174. Pizarra Stat., 431, 442. Pizarro, F., 275, 297, 36 6. Plana, la, 501. Planolles, 525. Plasencia, 143, 292. * — to Avila, 143. to Ciudad Rodrigo, 298. del Jalon, 549. Plata, la, 144. •, Camino de, hi, 143, 144* Plate, Sp., ancient, 119, 262. Plateresco, el, [56]. Plateria, 259. Plaza, la, 249. Pobes, 188. Poblet, 502. , monastery of, 502. - Poco do Bispo, 288. Poetry, Sp., [57]- Pol de Mar, Stat., 521. Pola de Gordon, Stat., 226. • de Lena, 227. de Laviana, 235. de Siero, 237. Police, New Spanish, [14]. Polinino Stat., 539. Polyglot Bible, 555. Pompey, 37L 47 °, 53 °. Ponderacion, Sp., 305. Ponferrada, 219. , excursions from, 219. Ponga, 240. Ponte de Sor, 287. Pontevedra, 268. Population, Sp., [15]. Porcello, Diego de, 20. Porrate, 493. Porrino, el, 270. Porron, 488. Port of Barcelona, 507. of Orinon, 197. of Tarragona, 499. of Valencia, 480. Portaceli, 481. Portalegre Stat., 287. Port Bou Stat., 518. Portolin, 175. Portugal, 165, 286. Portugalete, 191. Posada, [12]. INDEX. 304p POSADA. Posada Stat., 321. Post - Office and Letters, [11]. Potes, 174, 244. Pousa Stat., 270. Poussin, N., 66, 67. Povoa, 288. Poyatos, 142. Pozaldes Stat., 27. Pozazel, 174. Pozo Airon, el, 132. Canada Stat., 459. Pozos de Anibal, 31 1. Pozuelo, 32. Prades, 152. Prado, 273. Praia, 287. Prat de Llobregat Stat., 517. Pravia, 248, 249. Pre-historic monuments, [53]. Premia Stat., 521. Prescott, 392, 413. Priego, 136. Priesca, 235. Principality of Catalonia, 487. Proaza, 249. Processions at Morelia, 486. Professo de la Tramontana, 518. Pronunciamento, 434, 523. Protestant Burial, 435. Chapels and Schools in Spain, [75]. Prudentius, 282. Puda, baths of, 527. Pudridero, el, 91. Puebla, la, 363, 486. Majorca, 591. de Ea, 193. Sanabria, 148, 222, 273. Puente de Arce, 239. ■ de Alcantara, 296. del Cardenel, 292. • del Congosto, 143. del Diablo, 99, 500, 503. de Domingo Flores, 223. d’Eume, 254. de Ferreras, 500. de los Fierros Stat., 226. de los Grazos, 240. ■ de Luchana, 19 1. • Maceiro, 265. — — Nuevo, 189. de la Reina, 577. de Robleda, 149. ' Ulla, 273. Yiesgo, 178, 183. de Zuazo, 357. Puercas, las, 362. Puerta de Jerez, 349. de Leitariegos, 250. del Sol, 39. Puerto, 447. de los Empedrados, 442. de Lumbreras, 482. de Martinez, 442. ■ de Piedrafita, 223. Real, 357. de S. Maria, 357. de Ventamella, 240. del Yiento, 442. BEMESAE. Puertollano, 280. Pugayo, river, 175. Puig Stat., 491. Puigcerda, 523. Pulgar, H. P. de, 413. Pulteney, Gen., 255. Purullena, 448. Puzol, 491. Pyrenees, 535. Q. Quarantine island, 593. Quemadero, 347. Quero, 308, 39 3, 465. Quesada, Yenta de, 309. Queyles, river, 564, 569, 574. Quicksilver mine, 280. Quijote, Don, 277, 309, 310. Quinones, Suero de, 217. Quinta, 185. Quintana, 216. Quintanapala, 13. Quintanar de la Ordan, 465. Quintanilla Stat., 174, 183, del Monte, 169. Quintela, 272. Quintin, St., battle of, 87. Quinto Stat., 548. Quirico, San., Stat., 524. Quita Pesares, 97. R. Rabade, 251. Rabanos, los, 568. Rabat, 389. Rabida, S a * Maria de, 366. Rabita, la, 452. Rabitos, 366. Rada, Rodrigo X. de, 551. Ragged Staff, 379. Railways, Ferro carril, Sp., [8]. Raisins, 436, 456. Rajadell, 529. Rambla de Nogalte, la, 482, 496, 506. Ramiro II., 559. Ramon Berenguer, 509. Raphael, 58, 63, 67. Raspeig, S. Vicente de, 463. Rastillar fort, 197. Rastro, Barranco del, 494. Raur, 523. Raxd, chateau, 587. Raymat Stat., 538. Real (coin), [4]. Recaja Stat., 567. Recole tas, convent, 160. Redondela, 268, 270. Regalada, la, 312. Reguengo Stat., 288. Reino de Andalucia, 305. Aragon, 533. Galicia, 204. de Murcia, 453. Navarre, 536. de Valencia, 470. Reinosa, 174, 183. Remesal, 223. Remesar, 273. HONDA. Renedo, 175, 178. Renteria, 7. Requena, 134. Retablo, 218, 330, 341, 509. Reus, 501. Reventon, el, 98. Revenue of Spain, [15]. Rey Chico, el, 391. portrait, 408. Riano, D. de, 334. Rianzares, river, 125. Riba, la, 501. de Sella, 237. Ribalta, F. de, [45], 57, 6o, 473, 477, 495- Ribera, F„ E. de, 340. ‘ El Santo,’ 473. J. de, ‘ lo Spagnoletto,’ [45], 56, 60, 65, 66, 67, 75, 160, 411, 467, 478. Ribas, 524, 525. Rice, 456. Ricla Stat., 549. Riego, 274. Rielves, 140, 291. Rincon de Soto, 566. Rindellots Stat., 521. Rioja, la, 174, 179. , ode of, 351. Rio Frio, 97, 98, 428. , Santi Petri, 357. Tinto, 367. Tormes, 153. Ripoll, 524. to Camprodon, 524. Riquelme Stat., 461. Ritual, Muzarabie, 118. Roman, 563. Rivadavia, 270. Rivadeo, 247. Rivadesella, 236, 237. Rivaforada Stat., 569. Rivers, Lord, 428. Rivota, 241. Rizzi, F., [51], 57, 75- Roads, Sp., [9]. Robbers, [14]. Robla, la, 226. Robledo Stat., 32. Gardens, 97. Roca, la, 283* Rocadillo, el, 371. Rocca, la, 602. Rock, the, of Gibraltar, 377. Roda Stat., 427, 430, 465. Roderick, Don, 13, 203. , K. of the Goths, 382. Rodrigo, Archbp., 310. Roelas, [51], 58, 339, 344- Rollo, el, 426. Roma, Soto de, 417. Roman roads, 281. , San, Stat., 144, 165, 218. Romero, 264. Roncesvalles, 576. * lo Pamplona, 575. Ronda, 442. ■ to Cueva del Gato, 444. * to Gibraltar, 444. * to Malaga, 441. - — to Seville by Moron, 446. 304 q HONDA. Eonda to Seville by Coronil, 447. la Vieja, 444. Eonquillo, Alcaide de, 167, 291. , el, 291. Eooke, Adm., 269. , Sir George, 374. Eoque, San, 380, 438, 445. Eosas, las, 32. Eota, 362, 364. Eoyal tombs, 9c, 500. Eubens, 26, 65, 67, 69, 71, 75, 80. Eudensinta, San, 271. Euccas, river, 301. Eueda, L. de, 319. Stat., 549. Euitelan, 223. Euiz, Fernando, 326. , J., 481. Euysdael, 69. S, Sabadell, 527. Sabinango, 559. Sabio, Alonso el, 21, see Alonso. Sabugal, 151, 152. Sacavem Stat., 288. Sacedon, 136. Sagrario, 329. Saguntum, 491. Sahagun, 207. Sahaun, 561. Sal, 174. Salado, plains of, 383. Salamanca, 153 ; history, 1 53 ; students, 154 ; squares, cathe- dral, 1 5 5 ; old cathedral clois- ters, 156; University and colleges, 157, 158; churches, 159-161 ; old houses, 161 ; excursions, battle, 162 ; vic- tory of, 292. to Ciudad Eodrigo, 149. to Fregenida, 152. * to Medina del Campo, 152. to Zamora, 144. Salas, 250. Salduba aqueduct, 4?8. Salesas Eeales, las, 79. Salgaraes, 152. Salillas, 549. Salinas, las, 3 58, 428. Salitres, 346. Salle, 389. Salmon fishing, 225, 247. Salmonetes, 362. Salobrena, 452. Salon, el, 348, 361. Salor, rio, 298. Salou, port of, 493. Salsadella, 486. Salt mines, 134, 528. Salteras Stat., 365. Salto, M a * del, 101, 102. Salud, la, 177, 227. Salvador de Celorio, San, 237. Salvatierra, 11. Sama, 235. Sames, 241. San Cdrlos de la Eapita, 550. INDEX. SANTO. San Ildefonso,or La Granja, 95, San Eoque, 438, 445. San Salvador, convent, 247. Sebastian Stat., 7. Sanchez, Jesuit, 314. Sanchidrian, 28, 171. Sancho, el Bravo, 145, 383. Ortiz de Eoelas, 339. Panza, 277. Sancti Petri, river, 357. Sandoval, 216. Sangre, hospital de la, 346. Sanguesa, 573. Sanlucar de Barrameda, 364. to Sanlucar de Guadiana, 569. de Guadiano, 370. la Mayor, 365. Sans, 504. Sansaturnino Convent, 257. Santa Casa, 195. Clara, 300. Cruz, 125, 175. Eufemia, 169. Eulalia Stat., 287. Faz, la, 394. Fe, 418, 428, 522. Maria de la Pena, 360. _ de Nieva, 170. Marta, 291. — — • Olalla, 140, 291. Paula Stat., 308, 393, 464. Teresa de Avila, 31. Santander, 176; history, 176; cathedral, tobacco manufac- tory, excursions, 177 ; stea- mers, 178. to Baths of Puenta Vies- go, 178^ * to Bilbao, 197. * to Burgos, 183. * to Oviedo, 236. * to Yenta de Banos, 171. Santarem, 287. Santas Martas Stat., 207. Santiago, 258; history, 258; cathedral, 258 ; plan, 261 ; chapels, 261 ; el Portico de la Gloria, 263, 264; univer- sity, convents, promenades, 264; legend, 532. Santiago to Cape Finisterre, 265. * to Lugo, 257. * to Orense, 272. to Yigo, 266. , Maestre de, murder, 336. Santianes, 249. Santibanes de Bejar, T43, 226. Santillana, 238. Santiponce, 291. Santi Spiritus, 149. Santiurde, 175. Santo, Calix, 472. Domingo Convent, 409. Ponce, 350. Domingo de la Calzada, 179. Eibera, el, 474. Eostro el, 394. de Silos, 18 1. SEVILLE. Santo Spiritus, 149. Sudario, 464. Santona, 197. Santos de Maimona, los, 292, 300. Santullano, 227. Sar, river, 267. Saragossa, 539. See Zaragoza. Sarahuells, 457. Sarcophagi, 520. Sariegomuerto, 236. Sarinena, 538. Sarrion, 139. Sarto, Andrea del, 63, 67. Saturnino, San, 503. Saturraran, 193. Saumarez, Adm., 384. Savalo, 346. Sax, 463. Scipio at Algeciras, 384; at Tarragona, 496 ; tomb, 500. Sea-bathing, [16]. Sebares, 237. Sebastian, San, 7, 578. to Bilbao, 10. * to Pamplona, 578. , San, de los Eeyes, 183. Sebastiani, victory, 433. Seculejo lake, 562. Sed, la Murillo, 341. Segadas, las, Stat., 227. Segorbe, 140. Segovia, 98 ; historical notice, 98 ; aqueduct, 98 ; cathedral, plan of, 100; retablo, cloisters, alcazar, 10 1 ; casa de Moneda, la Vera Cruz, Parral convent, 102; Santa Cruz convent, museo, 103. * — to Madrid, 86. Segre river, 523. Segundera, Sierra de, 220. Segura, forest, 450. , river, 460, 482, 483. Seijo, 254. Seira, 561. Seises, los, 334. Sejas de Aliste, 274. Selgua Stat., 538, 561. to Barbastro, 538. Sella, valley of, 237. Selva, la, Stat., 501. Semana Santa, 325. Seneca, 314. Senes, 450. Senora, N., de los Desempara- Kdos, 473. Sepulveda, 182. Serdanola, 527. Serenos, 457. Serin, 233. Serpentine rock, 418. Serrania de Eonda, 39 o. Serranos (snails), 454. Sertorio, 559. Setabis, 466. Setenel, 446. Seu de Urgel, la, 523. Seville, 322; inns, theatres, bull-rings, 322 ; population, history, 323 ; houses, Ala- INDEX, 304r SEVILLE. medaVieja, 325; cathedral, exterior, 325 ; Giralda, 325 ; Patio de los Naranjos, library, 327 ; Archbishop’s palace, Lonja, 328; cathedral, in- terior, monumenta, 329 ; plan, 312 ; coro, retablo, 330 ; chapels, 331-335; sacristia, 331 ; tenebrario, 333 ; staff of clergy, 335 ; Alcazar, 335- 337; Cuarto del principe, picture gallery, 337-339; sculpture, old houses, 339; Casa de Pilatos, 339; la Ju- deria, 340 ; plaza nueva, 341 ; la Caridad, university, 341 ; Cartuja convent, 342 ; churches, 342-344 ; Calle de las Sierpes, 344'; del Candi- lejo, La Cuna, 345 ; hospitals, 346; Fabricas de Tabacos, 347; Quemadero, cemetery, 347 ; las Delicias, 348 ; San Telmo, 348 ; picture gallery, 348; Plaza de Toros, 349; suburbs, 349 ; excursions, 350; convent of N a * S a ' de las Cuevas, 350; amphi- theatre, 351 ; Feria de Santi Ponce, 352. Seville to Cadiz, by rail, 354- , by water, 363. * — to Badajoz, 289. to Carmona, 428. to Cartuja convent, 350 * to Cordova, 321. to Granada, 426. to Huelva, 365. to an olive farm, 352. to Villanueva del Rio, 353. Sheep-shearing, 276. Sherry Wines, 356. Shooting tour , [21]. Sibylla, 496. Siege of San Sebastian, 9. Siero, 235. Sierra Bermeja, 421. Guadarrama, 86. —r— de Laita, 446. de Lujar, 448. de Moncayo, 574. Morena, 305, 309, 390. Nevada , 391 ; ascent of, 419. de Prades, 502. Siete Suelos, 408. Sigena, 538. Sigueiro, 263. Siyuenza, 551, 568. , works of, 87. Siguli, caves of the, 485. Sil, the, 219, 223. Silius Italicus, 351. Silkwoims, 418, 456. Silla, 468, 481, 485. del Moro, 408. del Rey, 94. Siloe, Diego de, 409, 411. Silos, S°* Domingo de, 181. Sils Stat., 521. TADMOR. Silver mines, 446, 592. of Santiago, 259. Silver work, 333. Simancas, 166 ; archives, 27, 167, 329. Sitges, 517. Smuggling, Sp., 376, 390. Snails, 454. Sobrate de Picato, 224. Socuellamos, 465. Solares, casas, 441. Sol, Puerta del, 39. Solis, A. de, 555. , Isabel de, 391. Sollana Stat., 468, 485. Soller, 591. Sollo, el (Sturgeon), 346. Solsona, 523. Somaten, 537. Somio, 234. Somorostro, mines of, 197. Somosierra, 18^. Son Carla, 604. Son Morell, 604. Son Saura, 604. Sontelo de Montes, 272. Sorauren, 579. Soria, 565. to Logrofio, 569. to Madrid, 568. Soto Palacios, 183. de Roma, 417. Soult, Marshal, 177, 271, 346, 579 ; at Albuera, 289 ; at Leon, 214; at Badajoz, 284, 285. Southey on Zaragoza, 541. Spagnoletto, 467. See Ribera. Spain and Spaniards, [2]. Spanish School of Painters, [42]. Architecture, [53]. Spartel, Cape, 387. Stanhope, Gen., 530, 547. Steam communication, [7]. Strachan, Sir R., 266. Straits of Gibraltar, 383. Students, Sp., 154. Suca, la, 408. Succa Stat., 468. Suchet, Marshal, 474, 480, 485, 492, 500, 547* Sueca, 485. Sugar-cane, 438, 4*9, 449. Superstition, Valencia, 457. Suria, 523, 527. Susana, 273. Sweetmeats, 456, 484, 514. Sword manufactory at Toledo, 122. Swords, collection of, 49. Synagogues of Toledo, 109. T. Tabaco de fraile, 347. Tabilla, Va de, 382. Tablada, 349- Tablas, la, 355. Taboadela, 273. Tadmor, 453. TENORIO. Tafalla Stat., 570. Tagarete, el, 349. Tagus, 105, no, in, 135. Tajamar at Merida, 282. Tajo, river, 125. , el, de Ronda, 442. Tajuna, river, 125. Talajots, 598-604. Talara, 447, 451. Talato-de-Dalt, 600. Talas, 275. Tala vera de la Reina, 140, 291. r, battle of, 141. la Real, 283. * — to Madrid, 140. Talca, 351. Tarnbo, island, 268. Tamega, 273. Tangier, 386. to Casablanca and La- rache, 388. * — to Gibraltar, ?86. to Tetuan, 388. Tapadas, las, 384. Tapia, 325, 328. Tarancon, 125. Tarazona, 574. * — to Tudela, 574. Tardientajunct., 539, 558. to Huesca, 539. Tarifa, 383 ; siege, 383. Tarkish, 397, 401. Tarragona, 495 ; history, 496; siege, 496 ; cathedral, 497 ; windows, 498 ; chapels, 498 ; churches, amphitheatre, mole, 499 ; promenades, Roman aqueduct, la Torre de les Escipiones, 500. to Barcelona, 503. to Lerida, 501. to Tortosa and Valencia, 49 1 * Tarrasa, 527. Tarraga Stat., 529. Tartana, 469. Tartessus, 305, 371. Taza de plata, 359. Tea, la, 342. Teba, 365. Tecla, Santa, 498. Tegeiro, 251. Tejadillo, 149. Tejares, 149, 152. Tejas Pass, 188. Tejee, river, 440. Telegraph office and telegrams, [11]. Telmo, San, 270, 348. Tembleque Stat., 308, 393, 464. Templars, 146, 197, 282. Temple of Diana, 492. Tendilla, Conde de, 413. Tenebrario, el, 330, 333. Tenebron, 299. Teniers, D., 69, 71. — — , old, 70. Tenorio, 272. , Archbp., 303. , -Juan, 345. INDEX. 304s TENT. Tent wine, 362. Ter, river, 524. Tera, river, 27?. Teresa, S a *, of Avila, 31. Terno from St. Paul’s, 472, 498. Terraza, la, 427. Terrer Stat., 550. Tertius, Rex, 116. Teruel, 136. to Oalatayud, 138. * — to Cuenca, 136. to Valencia, 139. Tetuan, 388 ; convent of, 476. * — to Gibraltar, 385. * — to Tangiers, 388. Teucer, 205. Tharsis, mines, 368. Theatre of Murviedro, 492. Thegrim, 391. Theodosius, 291. Theotocopuli, no. Seee 1 Greco. Thermae, 225. Threshing-floor, 416. Tibi, 484. Tibidado, 514. Tiendas, las, 562. Tierra Caliente, 390. Tinajas, 363, 482. Tineo, 250. Tinto, river, 366. Tintoretto, 58, 64-66, 92. Tio Jorge Ibort, 540. Tioda, 231. Tirante Lo Blanc, 480. Titian, 59, 63-66, 92. Tobacco factory, 177, 347. Tobarra, 459. Toboso, el, 309, 463. Tocador de la Reina, 404. Tocino, 301, 321. Tocon Stat., 428. Toledo, 104; bull-ring, his- tory, 104 ; walks, gates, 106 ; promenades, Alameda, hos- pital of Tavera, 107 ; Roman circus, Santa Leocadia, 107 ; palace, castle, 108 ; San Juan de los Reyes museum, 1 08 ; synagogues, 109 ; Santo Tome, 109; bridges, 110-112 ; Tagus, no; Alcazar, 112; cathedral, 112 ; plan of, 113 ; chapels, n6; San Ildefonso, 117 ; Muzarabic chapel, 118 ; pictures, custodia, 118; im- age of the Virgin, cloisters, 1 19 ; capilla di San Bias, 120 ; Nino Perdido, Archbishop’s palace, 120 ; hospital of Santa Cruz, Moorish mosque, 12 1 ; convents and churches, 121 ; old houses, 122; sword manu- factory, 122 ; excursions, 123. Toledo, Juan B. de, 87. , Pedro de, 220. Tolosa, 11. to Bilbao, 196. , las Navas de, 116, 213, 310. Tomar el fresco, 361. Tomb of Scipio, 500. TEES PUENTES. Tonya Stat., 518. Toranzo, valley of, 178. Torcal, el, 428. Torcuato, San, 448. Tordera Stat., 521. Tordesillas, 167. Tordia, rio, 224. Torello talayot, 600. Toreno, 251. , Conde de, 203, 233. Tormes, rio, 153, 164. Torneros, 207. Toro, 144, 165, 442. , Mount, 602. Toros de Guisando, 32, 99. de Jerez, 358. de Ronda, 442, 444. de Seville, 322, 349. Torquemada Stat. ,22. Torre Stat., 219. de los Escipiones, 500. de Hercules, 252. del Homenage, 400, 587. del Homenaje, 377. de las Infantas, 407. de Justicia, 399. Llafuda, 603. Lodones Stat., 32. del Oro, 349. de los Picos, 407. de Plata, 349. Trencada, 603. de la Vela, 397, 400. del Vino, 401. Torreblanca Stat., 493. Torracilla de Cameros, 569. Torralba talayot, 601. Torredembarra, 503. Torrejon de Ardos, 557. Stat., 104. Torrelavega, 175, 236. Torrello Stat., 524. Torremejia, 300. Torremolinos, 439. Torres Bermejas, 399. Cabrera Stat., 430. Torres Torres, 140. Torrigiano, P., 339, 411. Torrijos, castle of, 123. , Gen., 435. Stat., 140, 291. Torro, 452. Tortanga gorge, 187. Tortosa, 494. Tosas, 525. Tostado wine, 204. Totana, 482. Tours in Spain, [i7]-[3C>3- Trabancos, river, 165. Trabaque, 136. Trafalgar, 382. Tragacete, 135, 136. Trajan, 98. Tramagal, 287. Trasmiras, 273. Trasparente of Cuenca, 129. of Toledo, 116. Trastamara, H. de, 180, 309. Tremedal, 135. Trepuco, 599. Tres Puentes, Paso de los, 523. UZARRAGA. Tre velez, 424, 451. Treviso, 245. Triana, 349, 365. Tribunal of Irrigation, 455* Trigueros, 366, 370. Trillo, 555. Tristan, 57, 61, 75. Triunfo, el, 320, 349, 415. Trocadero, 357. Trout-fishing, 222, 240. Trubia, 249. Truchas, Peralejos de los, 135;. Truela, 222. Trujillanos, 299. Trujillo, 297. to Guadaloupe, 301. to Logrosan, 301. * — to Merida, 299. Tubal, 98, 494. Tudela, 569. to Cascante and Tarazona, 574 * Tudelilla, 542, 546. Tudense, 270. Tufts, 154, n. Tumbos, 230. Tumuli, 599. Tunny fisheries, 382. Turia, river, 135, 137, 470. Turieno, 246. Turones, river, 152. Turriano, J., ill. ■ Turrones, 514. Tuy, 270 ; cathedral, 27a U. Ucles, 126 ; battle, 126. Ujijar, 451. Ujo, 227. Ulla river, 267, 273. Ulldecona Stat., 494. Ultimo Sospiro del Moro, 418, 447 - Ummeyah dynasty, 314, 453,, 470. Una, 1 33. , la, 241. Union of Aragon, 533. University of Salamanca, 157. Unquera, 238, 243. Urbasa, Sierra de, 578. * — to Oviedo, 239. Urbel del Castillo, 183. Urdax, 580. Urdino, 526. Urgel, la Seu de, 523. * — to Barcelona, 523. Urola, river, 11, 193. Urraca, Dona, 181, 213. , Queen, 214. Ursubil, 192. Urtubie, 6. Urumea valley, 10. Usagre y Bienvenida Stat., 301- Ustariz, 580. Utiel, 134. Utrera, 354, 426. Utrillas coal mines, 55a Uzarraga, 198. INDEX. YA DE TAIBILLA. V. Ya de Taibilla, 3 32. Yacar Stat., 421. Yaccaro, 58. Yacia Madrid, 125. Yadollano Stat., 3 10, 393. Yal de Zapan, 550. Yalcarce, valle de, 22 3. Yaldebarzana, 236. Yaldecara, Huerta de, 465. Yaldedios, S a * Maria de, 236. Yaldemoro, 308, 393, 464. Stat., 309, 39 3. Valdeon, Posada de, 241. Valdepenas Wine , 310, 436. Valderasa, ruins of, 144. Valderaduey, rio, 166, 169, 206. Yaldespinos viaduct, 32. Yaldestillas Stat., 27. Valencia, 468 ; inns, 468 ; theatres, Azulejos, 469 ; his- tory, 470 ; the Cid, 470 ; cathedral, 471 ; Relicario, 472 ; Capilla San Luis, pre- late’s palace, 473 ; Colegio de Corpus, 473; miserere, cruci- fix, 473 ; sacristia, churches, 475; colegio, 476; Calle de Caballeros, Museo, 477, 478 ; Universidad, 479; gates, li- braries, 479; gardens, pro- menades, 480; port, excur- sions, 481. * — to Alicante, 484. to Burgasot, 481. * — to Cuenca, 133. to Denia, 485. to Jativa, 481. * to Madrid, 464. to Murviedro, 481. to Portaceli, 481. to Silla, 485. to Tarragona, 491. * — to Teruel, 139. de Alcantara Stat., 298. Yalencian costume, 457, writers, 458. Yalentias, 456. Valera, 133. Yalira Anserall, 52 3, 523. Valladolid, 23 ; situation, cathedral, 23 ; churches, 25 ; museo, 25; plan, 24; worthies, 27 ; excursions, 27. to Benaventa, 168. to Salamanca, 27. — — . to Simancas, 27. to Toro, 166. to Zamora, 27. Valldemosa, 588. Valle de Araquil, 577. Vallecas, 34, 125, 557. Vallegera, 143. Valloria, 161. Vallvidreras ch., 514. Yalsain, 97. Yalsequillo Stat., 281. Valverde, 139, 152, 291, 366. Vandyck, 66, 68, 69. Yaporoso style, 3)8, w. VICII. Vaqueros, 250. Yargas, L. de, 326. Vega, 219. of Granada, 3 90, 400. del Guadiana, 283. de Louro, 270. , Lope de, 83, 277. Veger de la Frontera, 382. Veguellina, 217. Vela, Torre de la, 397, 400. Velasco, P. de, 17. Velasquez, [47], 57-59, 60-62, 66-68, 83, 164. Velayos Stat., 28. Yeleta, Pichaco de, 419. Yelez de Benaudalla, 448. Blanco, la, 482. Malaga, 440, 452. el Rubio, 482. Yelezillo, 448. Yelloso, el, 524. Venasque, 561. Vendome, Due de, 493. Vendrell, 503. Yenia, 243, 274. Venta de Alfarnate, 439 de los Barreras, 273 — — de la Campana, 570. de Cardenas, 310. de Dona Maria, 449. del Rio Guadiaro, 438. de la Guia, 299. de la Herradura, 439. de los Hornajos, 439. de Huttin, 257. de Juan Calvo, 17 1. de Polios Stat., 144, 165. de la Torre, 438. de Banos Junct., 23. to Leon, 23, 2c6. to Palencia, 23. to Santander, 23, 171. to Valladolid, 23. Yentas, 204. de Alcolea, 312. Ventorillo de Pescante, 152. de Jimena, 445. Yera Cruz, 102. Veredas Stat., 280. Vergara, 198, 199. Yerin, 273. Verina Stat., 233. Vero, river, 561. Verones, Carlo, 59. Veronese, P., 64. Veronica, S a \ 394, 464. Veruela, Abbey of, 575. Viaduct of Orma'isteguy, 11. of Valdespinos, 32. Yiana Stat., 27, 577. Vicalvaro, 34, 557. Vicente, San, 30, 178, 238, 298. , B. de, 475. de Raspeig Stat., 463. de la Barquera, 236, 238. de Castallet, <527. de Espinel, 444. de Ferrer, 472, 475. de Mollet, 522. Yich, 524. * — to Barcelona, 524. 304£ VILLAREAL. Yich to Ripoll, 524. Yicien Stat„ 539, 5 58. Victor, Marshal, 281, 3575 a* Talavera, 141. Victoria mines, 257. Yidania, 196. Vieja, Ronda la, 444. Yierzo, el, 220, 221. , excursions in, 22 r. Yiesgo, Puente, 178. Yigo, 268. to Orense, 270. * — to Santiago, 266. Vila de Cans Stat., 517. Viladecaballs Stat., 527. Viladomas, 509. Vilajuiga Stat., 518. Vilamalla Stat., 518. Vilasanche, el Castro de, 2564. Vila3ar, 521. Yilches, 310, 393. Villa Carlos, 601. Formosa, 152. Nueva de Cameros, 569. del Rey,273- Vieja, la, 552. Villabesa, 274. Villacanas, 308, 397, 465. Villacastin, 17 1. Villada, 207. Villadangos, 216. Villafranca Stat., 300, 312. de Montes, 179. del Panados, 503. del Yierzo, 219. to Cangas de Tineo, 249* Villafranca-da-Xira, 288; Villafrechos, 169. Villagarcia Stat., 301.. Villagonzalo, 281. Villalar, 168. Villalba, 32, 171, 247. to Segovia, 32. del Alcor Stat., 365. Villalpando, 169. Villaluenga Stat., 2QI. Villamanin Stat., 226 Villamayor, 237. Villameira, 299. Villamiel, 140, 291. Villanova, de Barquinha,. 287. Villanubla, 168. Villanueva, 517. y Alcolea Stat., 32 r. del Ariscal Stat., 365. di Cameros, 569. • del Campo, 170. del Gallego Stat., 5 39. de Jara, 133. de Lorenzana, 247. de la Reina, 312. del Rio, 312, 353. de la Serena, 281. de las Minas Stat., 321. Villar, el, Stat., 465. de Plasencia, 143. del Saz, 139. Yillarasa Stat., 365. Villareal, n, 196, 492. to Arechaveleta, 199. 304 u VILLAREAL. ♦Villareal to Bilbao, 198. to Zumaya, 198. Villarejo de Salvanes, 125. Villarente, 216. Villargordo Stat., 394. Villarin de Compos, 170. Villarobledo Stat., 465. Villarubbia, 125, 3 21. Villasayas, 568. Villaseca Stat., 501. Villasequilla, 308, 39 3, 465. Villatero, 143. Villaumbrales,~2o6. Villaumbrosa, 207. Villava, 579. Villaverde, 144, 165. Villaviciosa, 235. , capilla de, 317* Viliavieja, 493. Villeguillo, 170. Villena, Marq. de, 102. Stat., 463. Villeneuve, F. Adm., 382. Vimboli Stat., 503. Vinaixa Stat., 50 3. Vinaraoz, 493. Vinarrea, 579. Vino Rancio, 481. Tostado, 204. Vinuela, 440. Virgende la Antigua, 33*. de Atocha, 79. de las Batallas, 1 81, 335- de los Desamperados, 473. y San. Jose, 35 o. de Monserrat, 516. del Pez, 67. del Prado, 279. de los Reyes, 334. del Romero, 574. de los Sastres, 498. de la Soledad, 41 1 . of Toledo, 159. de la Victoria, 435, 463. de Zaragoza, 544. Visiting, hints on Sp. forms of, [39]. Viso Stat., 429. Vista Alegre, 85. Vitigudno, 152. Vitoria, 11 ; battle, 12, 188. * to Bilbao, 196. Vivarambla, Plaza de, 410. Vivanus, 271. Vivar, 183. Vizcaga, 184. Votive offerings, 54?. Voto, legend of, 563, W. Wall, James, 297. , Richard, 124, 417. Wamba, 106, 181. Wardrobe, Virgin's, 119, 516. Washington, Irving, 450. Weights and measures, Sp., [6]. Wellington, Duke, 148, 399; INDEX. ZACATIN. at Bidassoa, 6 ; Cadiz, 361 ; Madrid, 41 ; at Burgos, 19 ; ' at Ciudad Rodrigo, 149 ; at San Sebastian, 9 ; at Sala- manca, 162 ; at Sorauren, 579; at Talavera, 141 ; at Vitoria, 12 ; estate near Gra- nada, 417; on Albuera, 290. Wells, Sp. women, at, 249. Westminster Abbey, missal, 472. Wheat, 2, 201. Whitebait, 417. Wilfred el Velloso, 524, 534. Wimbleton, Lord, 360. Windmills, Don Quixote’s, 465. Wines, Sp., [16]. of Aloque, 464. of Aragon, 550. of Benicarlo, 493. of Cascante, 537. of Malaga, 436. of Montilla, 436. of Orense, 204. of Peralta, 537, 570. of Puerto de S a * Maria, 35 7. of Rivadavia, 270. , Tent, 362. of Tuy, 270. of Valdepenas, 310, 436. of Valencia, 481. of Xeres, 356. of Yepes, 465. Women of Baza, 481. of Tarifa, 384. Wool of Segovia, 103. Wouvermans, 69. X. Xamete, 132. Xanas, 202. Xativa, 466. See Jativa. Xavier, St, F., 573, Xenil, 397, See Genii. Xeres, *35 5. Nee Jerez. Xerte, 292. See Jerte. Xijona, 484. See Jijona. Ximena, Dona, 22. Ximenez, Card., 40, 118, 391, 555, 556. Xincali, 345. See Zincali. Xiquena, 482. Y. Yegnas, river, 428. Yeles y Esquivias Stat., 104. Yepes, 308, 465. Yermo, 175. Yunquera, 553. Yuste, convent of, 293. Yusuf 1., 397. z. Zabaldica, 579. Zacatin,4i3. ZURITA. Zadorra, rio, 11, 196, Zafra Stat., 300. (ore), 368. Zaida, la, Stat., 548. Zaguan, el, 325. Zakara, 447. Zalamea, 366. Zalduendo, 178. Zamora, 144 ; promenades, 144 ; history, 145 ; cathedral, 145; churches, 146; walks, old houses, 148 ; excursions, 148. to Benavente, 274. to Braganza, 274. * to Orense, 273. * — to Salamanca, 144. Zancara Stat,, 465. Zancarron, 318. Zapan, Val de, 550. Zapardiel, river, 165. Zapateros, el Gremio, de los, 509. Zaragoza, 539* history, 540; cathedrals, La Seo, 541 ; El Pilar, 544 ; churches, S a * Engracia, 545 ; Torre Nueva, 546 ; museum, university, 547 ; gates, excursions, 547- 4 A to Alcala, 549. to Barbastro, 561. to Huesca, 558. to Jaca, 562. * — to Ldrida, 538. to Lucbon, 561. to Madrid, 549. to Pamplona, 569. to Panticosa, 558. to Puente de Hijar, 548. Zaralejo Stat., 32. Zaratan, 168. Zarauz, 10, 192, 194. Zariategui, 87. Zarinena, 476. Zegris, the, 391* Zincali, 345- Zizur-Mayor, 577. ihrr — Menor, 577. Zocodover of Toledo, 112. 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