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LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 
 
 FRONTISPIECE. 
 
 LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. WEST FRONT. FROM 
 DEAN'S G-ARDEN. 
 
LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 
 
 REMAINS OF BISHOP'S PALACE. 
 
HANDBOOK 
 
 TO THE 
 
 CATHEDRALS OF WALES. 
 
 LLANDAFF. — ST. DAVID'S.— ST. ASAPH.— 
 BANGOE. 
 
 vLftltti) f llustraliono. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 JOHN MTfBBAY, ALBEMARLE STBEET, 
 187:5. 
 
UNIFORM WITH THE PRESENT WORK. 
 
 THE SOUTHERN CATHEDRALS— Winchester, Salis- 
 bury, Exeter, Wells, Rochester, Canterbury, and Chichester. 
 With no Illustrations. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 24^. 
 
 THE EASTERN CATHEDRALS — Oxford, Peter- 
 borough, Ely, Norwich, and Lincoln. With 90 Illustrations. 
 Crown 8vo. iSs. 
 
 THE WESTERN CATHEDRALS — Bristol, Glouces- 
 ter, Hereford, Worcester, and Lichfield. With 60 Illustrations. 
 Crown 8vo. 16s. 
 
 THE NORTHERN CATHEDRALS— York, Ripon, Dur- 
 ham, Carlisle, Chester, and Manchester. With 60 Illustrations. 
 Crown 8vo. 2 vols. 21s. 
 
 LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET 
 AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The appearance of the c Handbook to the Cathedrals 
 of Wales ' has been much delayed in consequence of 
 the extensive restorations which have been in progress 
 for some time past. The Cathedrals have been filled 
 with scaffolding ; and it was found impossible, until 
 recently, to procure such drawings or photographs as 
 were necessary for the Illustrations to the present 
 volume. 
 
 This has been arranged on the same plan as the 
 Handbooks for the English Cathedrals. The 
 Churches of Llandaff and of St. David's have been 
 described at considerable length — the former in 
 Mr. E. A. Freeman's c Kemarks on the Architecture 
 of Llandaff Cathedral,' published in 1850 ; the latter 
 in Messrs. Jones and Freeman's 6 History and Anti- 
 quities of St. David's,' published in 1856. Since 
 those dates the two Cathedrals have undergone 
 extensive restorations, the details of which are de- 
 scribed in the following pages. But it is impossible 
 to write of Llandaff or St. David's without frequent 
 reference to the books just mentioned ; and although 
 
 & 
 
iv 
 
 PKEFACE. 
 
 due acknowledgment of their value has been made in 
 the notes to each Cathedral, it is proper to recognise 
 in this place the extent to which the Author has been 
 indebted to them. A similar use has been made 
 of the Bishop of LlandafFs ' Account of Llandaff 
 Cathedral,' in which the later history of the fabric is 
 fully traced. And especial thanks are due to the 
 Bishop and to Mr. Prichard, the architect of the 
 restoration at Llandaff, for the kindness with which 
 they have afforded assistance and information. At 
 St. David's, the assistance of the Eev. W. B. Thomas, 
 Canon of the Cathedral, and of the Eev. A. J. Green, 
 has been not less valuable. 
 
 Sir G. G. Scott, E.A., has kindly supplied informa- 
 tion relating to the three Cathedrals, St. David's, 
 St. Asaph's, and Bangor, in the restoration of which he 
 has been concerned. 
 
 Thanks are especially due to Mr. E. A. Freeman 
 for permission to use some of the woodcuts belonging 
 to his volume on Llandaff. Sir G. G. Scott and the 
 Committee for the Eestoration of Bangor have allowed 
 the use of some engravings, prepared by Messrs. 
 Dalziel for the illustration of Sir G. Scott's second 
 report on that Cathedral. The exterior and interior 
 views of Bangor are from drawings made by Mr. 
 Buckler, and lithographed by him on a much larger 
 scale. The Eev. Dr. Sparrow, of Ludlow, who has 
 successfully photographed many portions of St. David's, 
 kindly supplied some photographs, which have been 
 found of great service. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 V 
 
 Since the publication of the i Handbook for the 
 Northern Cathedrals,' the last of the English series, 
 the death has occurred of Mr. Orlando Jewitt, by 
 whom the whole of that series was illustrated. To 
 his great skill as an architectural engraver he added 
 a knowledge of Gothic architecture which made his 
 assistance of very unusual value. The engravings in 
 the present volume are by Mr. J. W. Whymper. 
 
 RICHAED JOHN KING. 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 WELSH OATHEDEALS. 
 
 Frontispiece — West Front. 
 
 Title-Page — Remains of the Bishop's Castle. 
 
 Plan 1 
 
 Proposed End of Italian Temple (in text) 10 
 
 I. Portal in the West Front 17 
 
 II. Interior from the West 21 
 
 III. Piers and Arches of the Nave 22 
 
 From Freeman's ' Llandaff Cathedral.' 
 
 IV. West End of the Nave— interior 23 
 
 From a drawing by Mr. Prichard. 
 
 V. Piers and Arches of Choir 24 
 
 From Freeman's ' Llandaff.' 
 
 VI. Window in the South Aisle of Presbytery . . . . 26 
 
 VII. Norman Remains on South side of Presbytery . . 34 
 
 From Freeman's ' Llandaff.' 
 
 VIII. The same Norman Remains, from the Aisle, 
 
 Plan of Piers in Nave and Choir 36 
 
 IX. Norman Arch at East End of Presbytery . . . . 38 
 
 Plan of Pier between Lady Chapel and South Aisle 
 
 (in text) 45 
 
 Window of Lady Chapel (in text) 47 
 
 X. North Portal of Nave 60 
 
viii 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 SI. gahto. 
 
 Frontispiece — General View from the South-east 105 
 
 Title-Page — Porch in Bishop's Palace id. 
 
 Plan id. 
 
 I. Portion of the Nave, showing the Piers and Arches 
 
 of the main Arcade ; and the Triforium .. 117 
 From a photograph by the Rev. Dr. Sparrow. 
 
 II. , III. Roundels from the Triforium .. .. .. .. 119 
 
 IV. Roof of the Nave 120 
 
 V. Interior of Tower (before the restoration) .. .. 130 
 
 From Jones and Freeman's ' History of St. David's.' 
 
 VI. East End of Presbytery 136 
 
 The lower window openings are filled with mosaics ; the 
 
 upper with stained glass. 
 
 VII. Piscina in St. Thomas's Chapel 157 
 
 From a photograph. 
 
 VIII. Rood Screen, between Nave and Choir .. .. 159 
 
 IX. Base of St. David's Shrine— Front 164 
 
 X. Back of St. David's Shrine 165 
 
 XT. [It has been found necessary to omit this plate, of 
 which the subject was the Roof of Bishop 
 Vaughan's Chapel.] 
 
 XII. Arched Recess in Bishop Vaughan's Chapel .. 187 
 The spaces between the arms of the central cross are 
 
 pierced, and open through to the Presbytery, imme- 
 diately below the base of the central window. 
 
 XIII. General View from the North-east of the 
 
 Cathedral .. .. 200 
 
 Sculpture in head of Triforium (in text) .. .. 252 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. ix 
 
 Frontispiece — Exterior from South-west .. 253 
 
 Plan id. 
 
 I. Interior from the West 263 
 
 II. Bishop's Throne and Stalls 268 
 
 III. Interior from the East 270 
 
 ganger. 
 
 Frontispiece— Exterior from South-west .. 290 
 
 Title-Page — Buttress of South Transept .. .. id. 
 
 Plan .. id. 
 
 I. Interior from the West 304 
 
 II. Exterior of South Transept and Choir 308 
 
 The restoration of the great window of the Transept is here 
 shown. 
 
 III. Window in the North Transept id. 
 
 IV. Corbel Tables of Transept and Chancel .. .. 320 
 
 Ancient tiles found in the Chancel (in text) 322, 334 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 § 1. The fact that the four Welsh episcopal sees are the sole 
 existing representatives of that British Church which was 
 established in this country before the arrival or the conquests 
 of the English, renders it desirable to prefix to this volume a 
 short general notice of their earlier history. 
 
 At what time Christianity was introduced into Britain is 
 altogether uncertain. The traditions or guesses which exist 
 or have been hazarded about it rest on no authority what- 
 ever. Nor is the evidence alleged for the existence of a 
 Christian Church in Britain during the second century at all 
 more trustworthy. To this period belongs the story of the 
 shadowy King Lucius, which, it would seem, originated in 
 Rome during the fifth or sixth century. But from a.d. 200 
 to a.d. 300 there is sufficient proof that British Christians 
 were numerous, and references are made to them by both 
 Tertullian and Origen. It is certain, too, that during the 
 following century the Church in Britain became settled and 
 organised. British bishops (apparently of York, of London, 
 and of Caerleon-on-Usk, answering to the capitals of Roman 
 provinces) were present at the Council of Aries (a.d. 314), 
 possibly at that of Sardica (a.d. 347), and at the Council of 
 Ariminium in 359. There was frequent intercourse between 
 the Churches of Britain and of Gaul, and it was from Gaul 
 that Germanus (Bishop of Auxerre) and Lupus (Bishop of 
 Troyes) were sent (a.d. 429) to confute the Pelagian heresy 
 in Britain, the author of it being himself a British Christian. 
 The persecution under Diocletian had been felt but little in 
 Britain or in Gaul; and it is not certain whether St. Alban, 
 
xii 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 the so-called " proto-martyr of Britain," suffered at that period 
 or somewhat later. a 
 
 § 2. But in whatever condition the British Church was 
 left at the departure of the legionaries, and however com- 
 pletely it had been organised, it is certain that it was utterly 
 swept away in all those parts of Britain which were con- 
 quered by the English while still heathens. This was the 
 whole of the southern, eastern, central, and northern portions 
 of the island. The British kingdom of Damnonia or " West 
 Wales," including parts of what is now Somersetshire 
 and the whole of Devonshire and Cornwall, was not An- 
 glicised until after the conversion of the conquerors, and it 
 retained for some time its British ecclesiastical organisation. 
 Wales remained independent much longer, as did the king- 
 doms of S'trathclyde and Cumbria, extending from the Mersey 
 to the Clyde. In these districts the ancient hierarchy was 
 still existing when Augustine (a.d. 603) held his famous 
 conferences with the British bishops, at the place afterwards 
 known as u Augustine's Oak;" somewhere, probably, on the 
 plain of the Severn, not far from the site of Bristol. Ac- 
 cording to an old Welsh tradition the bishops who met 
 there b were those of Hereford, Teilo (or LlandarT), Llanbadarn 
 Vawr, Bangor, Llanelwy (or St. Asaph), Weeg (supposed to 
 have been the see of a suffragan of LlandarT), and Morgan wg 
 (or Margam). But this list is of little authority. It is more 
 than probable that other British bishops, especially those of 
 Damnonia, were present ; and it has been suggested that 
 bishops of the parts of Britain then overrun by the English 
 might have, and probably had, fled into Wales, and were still 
 surviving. From these conferences, however (there were 
 two), dates a schism between the British Church and that 
 
 a For all the evidence relating to the first period of Christi- 
 anity in Britain see Haddan and Stubbs' ' Councils and Eccle- 
 siastical Documents/ vol. i. 
 
 b Bede (H. E. ii. 2) says there were seven British bishops 
 present. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xiii 
 
 now planted by Augustine among the English, which was 
 not healed for a considerable period. The points on which it 
 formally rested were — a difference in the time of observing 
 Easter, some variation in the form (probably in the number 
 of immersions) of baptism, and the peculiarity of the British 
 tonsure ; but national prejudices, and the hatred of the con- 
 quered for their conquerors, were, no doubt, strongly predis- 
 posing causes. 
 
 § 3. The answer to Augustine attributed to the Abbot 
 Dinoth (see below, note c ), refers to the Bishop of Caerleon- 
 on-Usk as exercising some kind of metropolitical jurisdiction 
 over at least the other bishops of Wales. But this answer, 
 at any rate in the form in which we now have it, is of much 
 later date. It is possible that Caerleon had still a bishop at 
 
 c Dinoth, the abbot of a great monastery (nobilissiimun 
 monasterium, quod vocatur lingua Anglorum Bancornaburg — 
 it was probably Bangor Iscoed), is mentioned by Bede (H. E. 
 ii. 2) in his account of the second conference. The answer to 
 Augustine, attributed to him, was copied at the beginning of the 
 seventeenth century by Spelman, from a Welsh MS. in the pos- 
 session of Mr. Peter Mostyn, and printed in his ' Concilia/ Two 
 copies of it, in Welsh, exist among the Cottonian MS. Spel- 
 mun's Latin translation is as follows : " Notum sit et absque 
 dubitatione vobis, quod nos omnes sumus et quilibct nostrum 
 obedientes et subditi ecclesiso Dei et Papse Romse et unicuique 
 vero et pio Christiano, ad amandum unumquemque in suo 
 gradu in perfectu charitate, et ad juvandum unumquemque 
 eorum verbo et facto fore filios Dei. Et aliam obedien- 
 tiam quam istam non scio debitam ei, quern vos nominatis 
 esse Papam, nec esse patrem patrum, vindicari et postu- 
 lari. Et istam obedient iam nos sumus parati dare et solvere 
 ei et cuique Christiano continue Pra?terea nos sumus sub 
 gubernatione Episcopi Caerlegionis-super-Osca, qui est ad 
 supervidendum sub Deo super nobis, ad faciendum nos servare 
 viam spiritualem." (See the Welsh original in Haddan and 
 Stubbs' ' Councils/ i. 122.) This answer, although it may tra- 
 ditionally represent what was really said, is, in its present form, 
 not older than the twelfth or thirteenth century. 
 
xiv 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 the time of the conference with Augustine ; but it is more 
 probable that the change which took place about that period 
 had already been made. The see of Caerleon seems to have 
 been the one Roman see for the province which included 
 what is now the whole of Wales. But there were political 
 changes in Wales contemporary with, and perhaps resulting 
 from, the English advance to the Severn. The country broke 
 into smaller principalities, and in each one of these an epis- 
 copal see was established. These were — Bangor, for the prin- 
 cipality of Gwynedd (or Yenedotia) ; Llanelwy (or St. Asaph's), 
 for Powys ; St. David's, for Dyfed (or Dimetia) ; Llanbadarn, 
 for the principality of Keredigion (or Cardigan) ; and LlandafT 
 for Gwent. Four of these remain, and are still the four 
 episcopal sees of Wales. Llanbadarn became merged in the 
 diocese of St. David's ; and two other sees — Llanafanvaur in 
 Brecknock, and Margam in Glamorganshire — existed but for 
 a very brief period, and were merged, the former in the 
 diocese of Llanbadarn, and eventually of St. David's ; the 
 latter in that of LlandafT. 
 
 Caerleon, in the Roman period, may well have been an 
 archiepiscopal see ; but there is no direct evidence that it 
 was so ; and the traditions on which the assertion was 
 founded are not met with earlier than the twelfth century. 
 The succession of its bishops is said to have ceased altogether 
 when the bishoprics of the principalities arose ; and this was 
 a transition from Roman to British organisation — from the 
 bishop residing in the capital of the Roman province to the 
 bishops of the new territorial divisions. It was not a change 
 from one metropolitan see to another ; although this was the 
 assertion on which St. David's, in the twelfth century, rested 
 its chief claim to a metropolitical dignity. Each new see 
 was apparently founded by the energy of one man, who 
 became the great saint of his district (see the Second Part of 
 each Cathedral), and who was reverenced therein more or 
 less exclusively. The period between the years 400 and 700 
 abounds in native Welsh teachers and saints ; and the most 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XV 
 
 important of these were founders of episcopal sees, round, and 
 connected with which, they established those great semi- 
 monastic communities which rank among the most noticeable 
 peculiarities of the British Church. The principal churches 
 in each diocese seem to have been also founded by the saint 
 himself, and are those which have received his name. d Even 
 Saint David, whose shrine afterwards became the chief place 
 of pilgrimage for all true Welshmen, has not a single church 
 dedicated to him throughout the whole of North Wales. 
 
 § 4. The number of Welsh saints whose existence is suf- 
 ficiently authenticated, and such facts in connection with 
 them as may be safely received — as, for example, the many 
 churches founded by the greatest of them in their respective 
 districts, and the vast bodies of disciples gathered round the 
 chief teachers in the monasteries or "colleges" — prove the 
 activity of the Church in Wales at this period. There was 
 a close connection with Ireland, with " West Wales " (what is 
 now Devon and Cornwall), and with Brittany. In Ireland 
 especially the monastery founded by St. David (see that 
 Cathedral, Part II.) had a great reputation. Many of those 
 afterwards known as famous Irish saints are said to have 
 repaired to it for study and for the sake of St. David's 
 teaching ; and, however this may be, there is sufficient evi- 
 dence that St. David, during the latter half of the sixth 
 century, greatly influenced the Christianity of Ireland. Ac- 
 cording to the remarkable document of Tirechanus (circ. 750), 
 which divides the Irish saints into three orders, 6 the first, 
 " Sanctissimus " (shining like the sun), were those who took 
 St. Patrick for their model, and followed his institutions. 
 There followed a time during which faith was weakened in 
 Ireland ; and the Welsh Church, under the auspices of St. 
 
 d See, for distinct evidence of this, Kees, ' Essay on the Welsh 
 Saints.' 
 
 e A translation of this document will be found in Dr. Todd's 
 1 Life of St. Patrick/ p. 88. It is accepted by him as perfectly 
 authentic. 
 
xvi 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 David, St. Gildas, and St. Cadoc, undertook its restoration. 
 The second order of saints, " Sanctior 99 (shining like the 
 moon), were those who received their instruction and their 
 Order of mass from these three Welshmen. To this second 
 order belong St. Columba of Iona and the numerous Irish 
 missionaries who spread themselves throughout Europe from 
 the end of the sixth to that of the eighth century ; and from 
 Iona, as we know, came the teachers of the Scottish Gael 
 and Picts, besides those first bishops of Northumbria who 
 restored the faith in that English kingdom after the departure 
 of Paulinus (a.d. 633) and the extinction of the Christianity 
 introduced by him. A link is thus distinctly established 
 between the teaching of St. David at Menevia and that of 
 the Northumbrian Church (to which belonged the great 
 St. Cuthbert) as it existed during the short period between 
 the reconversion of the kingdom by Aidan of Iona (a.d. 635) 
 and the Council of Whitby (a.d. 664), when the so-called 
 orthodox or Pioman system was adopted, and the Scottish 
 bishop resigned his see. 
 
 § 5. Whatever may have been the case with the see of 
 Caerleon during the Eoman period, there is no evidence that 
 any one of the existing Welsh sees enjoyed at any time a 
 true primatial dignity. The bishops of the several sees, pro- 
 bably a single bishop in each case, consecrated to the other 
 sees on a vacancy. It is true that Asser (a.d. 884), and the 
 Dimetian form of Howel Dda's laws (928), call the Bishop of 
 St. David's "archbishop ;" but the same title is given in the 
 ' Atmales Cambrise ' and the ' Brut,' and also by Nennius, to 
 the Bishop of Bangor (a.d. 768-809) ; and in the 6 Liber 
 Landavensis,' archiepiscopal jurisdiction is vaguely claimed 
 for the see of Llandaff. St. David, in the Llandaff histories, 
 is only known as one of an equal triad — Teilo, David, and 
 Padarn. It was not apparently until the eleventh century 
 that a direct claim was made for the jurisdiction of David 
 and his successors, not over Wales only, but over the whole 
 of Britain. This first appears in Bicemarch's 'Life of St. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xvii 
 
 David ; ' but " the very arguments of Giraldus and of the 
 Chapter of St. David's on behalf of the metropolitical power 
 of that see, raked together with difficulty in the end of the 
 twelfth century, show that no such power had existed within 
 the memory of men at that time, and that no real evidence 
 was to be found to indicate its having ever existed at all." f 
 A traditional recollection of the metropolitanship of Caerleon 
 (if that ever existed) may have led to the putting forth of 
 such a claim by the later sees ; and there was very likely in 
 Wales, as in Ireland, a confusion between the term " ard- 
 epscop " (or its equivalent in Cymric) and the Latin 
 " archiepiscopus." "Ard-epscop is, in Irish, "chief" or 
 "eminent" bishop, as 'ard-righ" is "chief king," and "ard- 
 flle " " chief poet." g But the personal distinction of the person 
 so named is in all cases signified, and not any peculiar dignity. 
 There is no trace at any time in Wales "of any system 
 resembling the Irish and Scottish (of government by abbots, 
 with bishops as subordinate officers, discharging episcopal 
 functions, but without jurisdiction), or, indeed, of any other 
 system whatever than that of a diocesan episcopate." 11 
 
 § 6. The British churches gradually assimilated to, and 
 fell into communion with, the English Church, as the power 
 of the English kings made itself more and more felt in the 
 different provinces. The Britons of Damnonia adopted the 
 Roman Easter after the letter addressed to their King Geraint 
 by Aldhelm of Sherborne in 705/ About a.d. 755 the 
 
 f Hadclan and Stubbs' ' Councils,' i. p. 149. 
 6 Todd's < Life of St. Patrick,' p. 16. 
 h Haddan and Stubbs, i. p. 143. 
 
 1 The Cornish, or Dainnonian, bishops seem, long before this 
 letter was written, to have been on closer terms than the Welsh 
 with the English Church. It is probable that the two British 
 bishops whom Wini, the English bishop of Wessex, joined with 
 himself for the ordination of Ceadda in a.d. 664, were Cornish. 
 (Bede, H. E. iii. 28 ; and see Haddan and Stubbs, i. p. 124.) The 
 limits of Damnonia were gradually narrowed ; and after Egbert's 
 
xviii 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 North Welsh adopted the same system, at the persuasion of 
 Elbodg, Bishop of Bangor; and the change was made in 
 South Wales in 777. About a century later occurs Hubert 
 " Sais," the Saxon, as Bishop of Menevia (St. David's), who 
 is said to have been consecrated by iEthelred, Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, "an act which appears to mark a complete, 
 though perhaps a temporary, subjection on the part of the 
 Church of St. David's, and it would seem to be connected 
 with the submission of the South Welsh princes to the West 
 Saxon monarch (Alfred), and the desire of the Menevian 
 clergy to enlist him on their side." k Two other bishops of 
 St. David's were consecrated by iElfric of Canterbury between 
 995 and 1005 ; and three bishops of Llandaff were conse- 
 crated by Archbishops of Canterbury between the years 972 
 and 1022. These cases distinctly indicate a certain domina- 
 tion of Canterbury — a domination which, like that of the 
 English kings over the princes of Wales, might at any time 
 be roused into activity, and was then little likely to be 
 resisted with success. (See ' St. David s Cathedral,' Part II.) 
 The fact seems to be that the Welsh Church, although in 
 full communion with the English, maintained a precarious 
 independence until after the Norman Conquest. Norman 
 bishops were then intruded into each Welsh see — (for the 
 history, see the second part of each Cathedral) — and the 
 ancient British Church became fully merged in that of 
 England. 
 
 victory over the Cornish and Danes in 835, Devonshire be- 
 came more closely attached to Wessex. Cornwall, between 833 
 and 900, was still a separate principality, but was subject, 
 ecclesiastically and civilly, to the English Church and king. 
 From 931 the British bishop of Cornwall was a recognised 
 suffragan of Canterbury ; the first English bishop of Cornwall 
 appears about 950, when the British succession ceased; and 
 about 1026 the Cornish see wa3 merged in that of Crediton 
 or Devon. The united see was transferred to Exeter in 1050. 
 k Jones and Freeman's ' Hist, of St. David's/ p. 262. 
 
INTKODUCTIOX. 
 
 xix 
 
 The history of the existing Church in England begins 
 therefore, with the coming of Augustine in a.d. 596. Chris- 
 tianity, and an organised Church, had been introduced in 
 this country long before, and survived. • But the British 
 Church, after losing all its distinctive peculiarities, was 
 gradually absorbed in the Church of the conquering races, 
 and, like that, was ruled from Canterbury. 
 
 C 
 
REFERENCES. 
 
 A. Nave. 
 
 B. North- West Tower. 
 
 C. South- West Tower. 
 
 D. Choir. 
 
 E. Presbytery. 
 
 F. Lady Chapel. 
 
 G. Chapter house. 
 C. C. C/ioir Pistes. 
 
 Altar Tomb of Christopher Mathew 
 
 and Wife. 
 Effigy of Bishop de Bruce. 
 
 3. Tomb called St. Teilo's. 
 
 4. Monument of Bishop Marshall. 
 
 5. Effigy of St. Dubricius. 
 
 6. Ancient Reredos. 
 Altar Tomb of Sir David Mathew ? 
 
 ~. Effigy of Lady Audley. 
 9. Altar Tomb of Sir William Mathew 
 and Wife. 
 
 10. Effigy of a Bishop. 
 
 11, ll. Line of front of the ' Italian 
 Temple.' 
 
 N. Door of Nave. 
 S. Door of Nave. 
 U. 15. Small Portals. 
 Modern Portal. 
 
 The dotted portions of the Plan mark 
 work which has been added during the late 
 restoration. 
 
 PLAN OF LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL,. 
 
LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL 
 
 PART I. 
 
 fistflrg anfr Retails. 
 
 J Llandaff Cathedral^ as it now exists, is some- 
 # thing more than a restored church. Its most 
 striking external features, the south-western tower and 
 spire, were only represented in the ancient cathedral by 
 
 a Two books must here be mentioned, with an acknowledg- 
 ment of the free use which has been made of them — ' Remarks 
 on the Architecture of Llandaff Cathedral, with an Essay 
 towards a History of the Fabric,' by Edward A. Freeman, 
 London, 1850; and 4 Some Account of the Condition of the 
 Fabric of Llandaff Cathedral, chiefly from 1575 to the present 
 time,' by the Bishop of Llandaff; London, 1860. Mr. Freeman's 
 was the first scientific account of the cathedral ; and all suc- 
 ceeding writers on the subject are necessarily indebted to him 
 in no small degree. The Bishop of Llandaff describes at length, 
 and with very interesting details, the changes of the building 
 since it was first allowed to fall into decay, and the restoration, 
 so far as that had advanced in 1860. 
 
 Browne Willis's ' Survey of Llandaff Cathedral ' (1718), sup- 
 plies some valuable documents, and is the best authority for the 
 condition of the church early in the eighteenth century. Willis's 
 original MS. (with an unpublished Appendix) is preserved in 
 the Bodleian Library (No. xxxvi. of his folio MSB.) The 
 Appendix contains fifty-six letters from one correspondent, 
 
 B 
 
2 f tenbaff «a%*ral 
 
 tower considerably lower and less enriched than that 
 on the north-west. There was no spire. In other 
 respects, the external outlines have undergone change ; 
 especially by the addition of a lofty pointed roof to 
 the chapter house. The appearance of the church, 
 therefore, differs greatly from that which it presented 
 when in its perfect condition at the end of the fifteenth 
 century. But, in the course of the restoration, every 
 ancient portion throughout the cathedral has been 
 most scrupulously retained ; and remaining details 
 have supplied authority for the renewal of such parts 
 of the building as had altogether perished. The 
 entire restoration is one of the most remarkable and, 
 in all those parts of the church which are not entirely 
 new, one of the most conservative, which has ever been 
 carried out in this country. That of Ely is, of course, 
 far more splendid. But no British cathedral had 
 undergone such changes, or had remained for so long a 
 time in neglect and ruin, as Llandaff when the restora- 
 tion was first undertaken. It has been truly said that 
 no such work has been effected, since Lichfield 
 Cathedral was restored by Bishop Hacket after it had 
 been shattered and half-ruined by the forces of the 
 Parliament. 
 
 In order, therefore, to understand the existing cathe- 
 
 Thomas Davies, between 1720 and 1745, on the state of Llandaff 
 Cathedral. There is also a statement drawn up by Willis him- 
 self, addressed to a Dr. Saunders, and describing the w r retched 
 condition of the whole building. The organ and organist, he 
 says, had " breathed their last about thirty years before." 
 
dral of Llandaff, it is first necessary to describe briefly 
 the changes which the building has undergone from 
 the foundation of the Norman church in the twelfth 
 century to the completion of the late restoration. 
 
 II. Urban, the first Bishop of Llandaff (1107- 
 1133), appointed under Norman influence, after 
 translating from the island of Bardsey the relics of 
 St. Dubricius, founder of the see of Llandaff, pro- 
 ceeded to rebuild his cathedral. The church which 
 Urban found existing was very small ; and its entire 
 length (including what seems to have been an eastern 
 apse) did not exceed 40 feet. b The new cathedral 
 
 b " Et prsedictus Antistes " (Urbanus) " vir bonae memorise, 
 videns loci parvitatem, in longitndine xxviii. pedum, in latitu- 
 dine xv., altitndine xx., et cum duabus alis ex utraque parte, 
 admodum parvse quaDtitatis et altitndinis, et cum porticu xii. 
 pedum longitudinis et latitudinis, rotundse molis ; consilio Ka- 
 dulphi Cantuariensis ecclesise Archiepiscopi " (Ralph d'Escures, 
 translated from Rochester to Canterbury in 1114, died 1122), 
 " et totius cleri et populi ejusdem, ccepit monasterium majus 
 construere in honore Petri Apostoli, et sanctorum Confessorum 
 Dubricii, Teliaui, Oudocei Millesimo centesimo vigesimo anno, 
 xviii. cal. Maii mensis " (April 14, 1120), "et in quarta feria 
 passionis, et acceptis sibi et ecclesia3 suae his Uteris Domini 
 Archiepiscopi, cum data benedictione et perdonatione omnibus 
 auxiliaturis, inceptum opus." (Liber Landavensis, p. 83 ; in 
 vita S. Dubricii.) The addition of St. Peter to the Welsh saints, 
 who had been the patrons of the former church, must be re- 
 garded as the act of a conqueror, just as Bernard, the first 
 Norman Bishop of St. David's, placed his cathedral under the 
 patronage of St. Andrew in addition to that of St. David. 
 (There was a Llandaff tradition that the cathedral was dedicated 
 to St. Peter and St. Paul ; and the royal grant, printed in 
 Browne Willis, p. 1G3, mentions the "gloriosos Apostolos Petrum 
 et Paulum in quorum honore ecclesia Landavensis sedificata et 
 constructa exist it.") The small church removed by Bishop 
 
 B 2 
 
i 
 
 was begun in 1120, and was probably completed by 
 Bishop Urban, although of this there is no record. 
 Indeed, the foundation of the Norman church is the 
 only fact relating to the architectural history of 
 the building which has been recorded at all. The 
 'Liber Landavensis,' a volume of documents relating 
 to the see, was drawn up about the year 1133 — 
 shortly before the death of Urban. Llandaff has found 
 no subsequent chronicler ; and for the later history of 
 the church we are dependent altogether on an exami- 
 nation of the actual building. 
 
 Urban's cathedral, although much larger than the 
 British church, seems to have been of very moderate 
 dimensions. In the Early English period, the church 
 
 Urban " may in one respect Lave equalled the most gorgeous 
 structures of succeeding ages ; it was doubtless the best offering 
 
 its founders could make To national feeling it must 
 
 have spoken in a manner which its successor could never rival. 
 It is a strange and not altogether pleasant thought, and one 
 in which Celt and Saxon may singularly unite, that the great- 
 est advances in architectural skill and splendour in both 
 countries alike were the result of a foreign occupation ; that 
 not only the castle, but the minster itself were, in fact, badges 
 of national misery and humiliation.'' — Freeman, Archit. of 
 Llandaff Cathedral, p. 46. 
 
 c The ' Liber Landavensis,' sometimes called 1 Llyfr Teilo,' 
 ' the Book of Teilo,' was edited in 1840 for the Welsh MSS- 
 Society by the Eev. W. J. Eees; from MSS. in the libraries 
 of Hengwrt and of Jesus College, Oxford. Since that time the 
 original MS., which formerly belonged to Llandaff, has been 
 discovered. It is now in the possession of P. B. Davies Cooke> 
 Esq., of Owston, near Doncaster ; and the extracts printed in 
 Messrs. Haddan and Stubbs' ' Councils,' vol. i., are given on the 
 authority of this MS. For a further notice of it see Appendix B 
 to Part I. 
 
was extended westward as far as the present west 
 front. The chapter house, also Early English, was 
 built somewhat later. During the First Decorated 
 period (perhaps in the episcopate of Bishop Brews or 
 De Bruce— 1265-1287), the Lady Chapel was added ; 
 the great arch, which opens to it from the presbytery, 
 being a retained portion of Bishop Urban's Norman 
 work. The presbytery was remodelled, and, in fact, 
 rebuilt, in the Second Decorated period; and, some- 
 what later, the walls of the aisles, in both choir and 
 nave, were (nearly throughout) rebuilt. The Perpen- 
 dicular north-west tower was erected by Jasper Tudor, 
 Earl of Pembroke, paternal uncle of Henry VII. The 
 south-west tower (Early English) remained unaltered. 
 
 The cathedral, which thus represented the archi- 
 tectural development of many centuries, exhibited a 
 very unusual and far from pleasing outline. There 
 were no transepts — (if transeptal towers were ever 
 raised above the roof, they can have existed but for 
 a short time) — and no central tower ; and the long 
 lines of wall and roof extended unbroken throughout 
 nave and choir. The Lady Chapel, somewhat lower, 
 projected eastward. The type was rather that of a 
 large parish church than of a cathedral ; although the 
 interior, and especially the view from the west end of 
 the nave, must always have been dignified and impres- 
 sive. But, apparently about the middle of the sixteenth 
 century, the church of Llandaff was allowed to fall 
 into decay, and it suffered more from the neglect and 
 spoliation which attended the religious changes of 
 
6 f hmtoiff tf a%bral. 
 
 that period, than any other cathedral in this country. 
 It was in a state of absolute ruin in 1575, when 
 Bishop Blethin, addressing his chapter, prayed their 
 active assistance for the church, "ne tempore nostro 
 funditus pereat.' ,d In order to procure funds for 
 needful repairs, the bishop proposed to diminish the 
 number of persons on the foundation — " the first sug- 
 gestion of a course of policy which eventually led to 
 the entire suppression of the choir and choral service, 
 the destruction of the organ, the forgetfulness of the 
 fact that the prebendaries were all residentiaries, and 
 ultimately to the performance of all the cathedral 
 and parochial duties of Llandaff and Whitchurch being 
 imposed upon the two Yicars Choral.' 56 The remains 
 of the residentiary houses served, when Bishop Blethin 
 addressed his chapter, for stables and pigsties/ Twenty 
 years later, the church is described in the Act Books 
 of the Chapter, as " digged and delved [in] pits and 
 
 d ' Account of the Fabric/ by the Bp. of Llandaff, p. 8. Bp. 
 Blethin, in his speech, asserts that the Cathedral had been 
 " virtuosa liberalitate Principum sumptuose sedificatam, magna 
 librorum, vestimentorum, vasorum, argenti et anri, copia ditatam, 
 magnis sedificiis perpolitam, multis Prebendariorum doinibns 
 circurndatam ac Vicariorum Curia adornatam.' , 
 
 e ' Account,' &c, p. 9. Whitchurch, then a part of the parish, 
 is now a separate ecclesiastical district. It had no separate 
 church until Bishop Field's time (1619-1627.) 
 
 f "Nullam, ut dudum ad nostras pervenit aures," says the 
 bishop, "huic eeclesiaa adjunctam remanendi domum reliquistis. 
 In aedibus Deo quondam dicatis, quas amplius ad alios usus 
 humanos transferre vobis non licuisset, quibus Cliristi ministri 
 ac dispensatores Dei semper cohabitarent, pascuntur equi, sagi- 
 nantur vestri, proh dolor, porci." 
 
iigiurg. €oxxhtntxon of §Ufoetro*s. 7 
 
 unpaved, being more like a desolate and profane place 
 than a house of prayer and holy exercises." Bishop 
 Godwin (1601-1617) the author of the book, <D.e 
 Praesulibus Anglise,' did something for the building 
 and for the see, — not, he hints, without considerable 
 diminution of his own "substance." The revenues 
 of the cathedral were seized in 1 649, g and the build- 
 ing was of course entirely neglected until after the 
 Eestoration. Some slight repairs were then made ; but 
 at the end of the century it was clearly in a state of 
 great danger. In 1697, Dr. Bull, then Archdeacon 
 of Llandaff, and afterwards Bishop of St. David's, calls 
 it " our sad and miserable cathedral." In 1717, the 
 south tower was "open within from the top to the 
 bottom." At this time, probably in consequence of the 
 ruinous state of the church, the removal of the see 
 to Cardiff was talked of. h Storms shook the building ; 
 
 g The Chapter library was then dispersed, and some of the 
 books were burnt, according to Browne Willis. " The cavaliers 
 of the country, and the wives of several sequestered clergymen, 
 were invited in bitter mockery to the castle of Cardiff by the 
 rebels on a cold winter's day, to warm themselves by the fire, 
 which was then made with a great heap of Common Prayer 
 Books, as well as a portion of our Collection." — Speech of the 
 Dean of Llandaff at the Festival, held July 13, 18G9, in com- 
 memoration of the completion of the towers. 
 
 In the ' Act Book of the Cathedral ' (vol. i. p. 319), a.d. 1681, 
 is the following order concerning the Chapter Library, which 
 existed at that time: — "That Mr. T. Davies, junior, V.C. of 
 this cathedral, have a key at his own proper cost and charges to 
 enter into the Library, and another key to go into the new house 
 belonging to this Chapter, he first having taken his oath not to 
 embezzle any of the books belonging to the same Chapter." 
 
 h In the first volume of the 4 Archaeologia Cambrensis 9 (1846), 
 
8 
 
 f Imtbaff enteral. 
 
 and, in 1721, it was determined to appeal to the 
 country for help, and a brief was obtained for this 
 purpose. Meanwhile the ruin went on ; roofs fell, — 
 much of that of the north aisle had been destroyed 
 in 1720, the battlements of the north tower having 
 fallen on it ; that of the south tower fell in 1723 ; 
 and, in the same year, " about fifty feet at the west 
 end of the nave." The choir service was now re- 
 moved into the Lady Chapel. The western entrance 
 was closed ; and the western half of the nave became 
 a picturesque ruin, entirely open to the sky, in which 
 condition it remained until the restoration of this 
 part of the church was begun in 1857. 
 
 III. The service which had been removed into the 
 Lady Chapel was not choral. In 1691, the Archdeacon 
 and Chapter (probably wanting funds) had voted that 
 "the quire singing be put down and discontinued." 
 The schoolmaster was appointed to give out the 
 singing-psalms, with a small yearly allowance ; and 
 this arrangement continued in force until the 
 appointment of the present Bishop, in 1849. Some 
 repairs were made to the Lady Chapel; but, about 
 1732, Mr. Wood, of Bath, was summoned by the 
 Chapter to " survey the church and estimate the re- 
 pairs." The result of Mr. Woods survey was the 
 
 Mr. G. G. Francis, of Swansea, has printed a letter on this pro- 
 posed transfer, full of indignant feeling, dated March 17, 1717, 
 and signed " J. D." The writer enumerates and refutes " the 
 chief and most plausible reasons handed about and urged in 
 behalf of this translation," describes it as "needless," and points 
 out the ill-effect of such a precedent. 
 
erection, under his auspices, of the remarkable Italian 
 temple which, until the beginning of the restoration 
 in 1843, occupied the presbytery, choir, and part of 
 the nave of the ancient cathedral. The work was 
 advancing steadily in 1736, when Bishop Harris, 
 writing to an ancestor of the late Lord Kolle, says, 
 " We propose to take down the two steeples which at 
 present serve as a western front to the two aisles, for 
 they are very ruinous, and to raise a tower over the 
 front of the nave, and then to finish with a rustic 
 porch." 1 In the same year the Eev. Thomas Davies 
 writes to the antiquary Browne Willis, describing the 
 progress of the church, which, he says, " as far as 'tis 
 ceiled and plaistered, which is something beyond the 
 west end of the choir, looks exceeding fine, and is a 
 very stately and beautiful room. . . . When it is 
 finished, it will (in the judgment of most people who 
 have seen the plan) be a very neat and elegant 
 church." k It remained, however, for about seventeen 
 years closed with boards at its western end ; and when 
 it was completed, in 1752, there were no funds for 
 adding the tower and rustic porch to which Bishop 
 Harris had looked forward as the crowning glories 
 of the edifice. The sketch overleaf shows this western 
 front, not as it ever existed, but as the ingenious 
 Mr. Wood had designed it. The actual front was 
 of similar but more humble character. It was sur- 
 
 1 i Account of the Fabric/ by the Bishop of Llandaff, p. 17. 
 k The letter is printed at length in the Bishop of LlandafFs 
 ' Account,' pp. 19, 20. 
 
10 ftobaff «%bral. 
 
 mounted by a pediment, at either end of which rose 
 a base, carrying an urn. These urns are now in the 
 garden at Bishop's Court. 
 
 Froposed End of Italian Temple. 
 
 It would be unreasonable to criticise the " exceed- 
 ing fine " construction of Mr. Wood, or to find fault 
 with the Chapter which directed his operations. Both 
 
he and they followed the taste of that age, which 
 looked on Gothic architecture as altogether barbarous, 
 and could therefore see nothing admirable or worthy 
 of preservation in the ruined and desolate cathedral. 
 The west front of the Italian "room" crossed the 
 ancient nave at the eastern side of the fourth bay 
 counting from the west, where the nagging, which 
 represents the thickness of the wall, interrupts the 
 encaustic tiles. Within, the Gothic details were en- 
 tirely hidden by new walls and plaster ; and a sort of 
 interior porch projected at the east end of the pres- 
 bytery. Some of the details are described in the 
 letter of the Eev. Thomas Davies ; and an engraving 
 in the book of the Bishop of Llandaff gives a suffi- 
 ciently clear idea of the general appearance. Mr. 
 Wood can have been but a sorry disciple of Sir 
 Christopher Wren ; yet the Italian temple of Llandaff 
 was perhaps superior to many ''stately and beau- 
 tiful rooms " of similar character which still survive, 
 and were erected at much greater cost. 
 
 The towers remained untouched. But the south- 
 western, or Early English tower, had become highly 
 dangerous, and in 1756 the Chapter ordered that part 
 of it should be taken down. This was accordingly 
 done in great part ; but a small remaining fragment 
 was not cleared away until 1859. Jasper Tudors (the 
 north-western) tower had lost its battlements. A 
 sum of 180Z. was expended on it in 1786. 1 
 
 1 In the Ellison Gallery, South Kensington Museum, there is 
 a picture of Llandaff Cathedral, by Paul Sandby (born 1725, 
 
12 
 
 IV. Such, for nearly a century, was the condition of 
 Llandaff Cathedral. The western bays of the nave 
 were roofless and in ruin ; Mr. Wood's church ex- 
 tended to the eastern wall of the presbytery; and 
 the Lady Chapel, although not ruinous, had also been 
 subjected to the improver's hand — a new and debased 
 east window having been devised, among other 
 changes, in 1740. The first movement in the direc- 
 tion of complete restoration was made by the Pre- 
 centor, the Eev. H. Douglas, who, for two years (1835, 
 1836), placed his small dividend at the disposal of 
 the Chapter. This money was spent on the restora- 
 tion of the east window of the Lady Chapel ; but much 
 was not done until the zeal of the Chapter and of the 
 Diocese was called forth at a meeting assembled in 
 1843 for the purpose of presenting a testimonial to 
 the Eev. William Bruce Knight, Chancellor of the 
 Diocese, and afterwards Dean of the Cathedral ; an 
 office which had slept since the twelfth century, and 
 was revived in his person. m The state of the Cathedral 
 was then pointed out, and dwelt upon with much 
 
 died 1809). This exhibits the west front and north side of the 
 church, as they existed about the middle of the last century. 
 A considerable portion of the south-west tower still existed, and 
 the Early English windows are distinctly presented. From the 
 artist's stand-point it was not perceptible that the western part 
 of the nave was roofless. 
 
 m The only Deans whose names are recorded are Joseph and 
 Esni. Browne Willis (p. 76) says he cannot determine when 
 this office was laid aside ; but he thinks it may have been 
 disused under Bishop Henry, who lived fifty years before 
 Urban. It was revived by the Act. 
 
latent ^zdoxntiort oi % fabric. 13 
 
 eloquence. Considerable sums of money were col- 
 lected, and although Dean Bruce Knight, who was 
 most eager for the work, lived to see no more than 
 the restoration of the Lady Chapel completed, his 
 successor, Dean Conybeare, brought equal ardour 
 to the cause, and had the happiness of seeing the 
 greater part of the church restored to its ancient 
 beauty and condition. The Italian Temple was 
 entirely removed. The Lady Chapel, the presbytery, 
 choir, and a portion of the nave, were most carefully 
 renewed; and on the 16th of April, 1857, all this 
 eastern portion of the cathedral was reopened for 
 Divine service. The choir of Gloucester Cathedral 
 attended ; and choral music was heard in the Cathe- 
 dral of Llandaff for the first time since 1691. 
 
 At the entertainment which followed the reopening, 
 the present Dean (then the Archdeacon) of Llandaff 
 insisted on the necessity for completing the work by 
 the restoration of the remaining part of the nave and 
 of the towers. On the spot 2775Z. was collected." 
 The fund rapidly increased. The repair of the nave 
 was at once begun, and foundations of a new south- 
 western tower were deeply laid. Before the end of 
 the year 1860 the work was well advanced. It con- 
 tinued without intermission until the completion in 
 1869. By that time the nave had been entirely re- 
 stored ; the north - western tower had received its 
 
 n On this occasion, the first offering (500Z.) was made by J. 
 Bruce Pyrce, Esq., of Duffryn, brother of the Very Rev. Bruce 
 Knight, late Dean of Llandaff. His example was contagious. 
 
14 f Imtbaff Ca%haL 
 
 coronal of pinnacles ; and the south-western, with 
 its spire, had risen from the ground as we now see 
 it. A second reopening festival was celebrated in 
 July, 1869. 
 
 Such is the history of Llandaff; a history of which 
 a knowledge is absolutely needful for a due appre- 
 ciation of the present beautiful cathedral. This is 
 practically a new church, with such internal arrange- 
 ments as might well be copied in many a cathedral of 
 greater size and prominence. The working architect 
 throughout has been Mr. John Prichard, who began 
 by restoring the east window of the Lady Chapel. 
 When, afterwards, the general restoration was under- 
 taken, Mr. T. H. Wyatt, who had repaired the ceiling 
 of the Italian temple, considered that he had a claim 
 on the Chapter. He and Mr. Prichard were accord- 
 ingly appointed joint architects, on equal terms. At 
 the end of about nine years the work was placed 
 entirely in the hands of the latter, who from the 
 beginning had been the real architect. With some 
 trifling exceptions, to be pointed out as we proceed, 
 Mr. Prichard is responsible for the whole of the new 
 work, including the design of the south-west tower. 
 Llandaff is fortunate in possessing a resident archi- 
 tect of such excellence, to whom the restoration has 
 been a labour of love, and who brought to it the 
 knowledge, skill, and refinement which have made it 
 something beyond a dry reproduction of ancient de- 
 tails. The entire outlay has been more than 30,000Z. 
 The work "reflects undying honour on all who have 
 
Situation. Kftest <#ront. 15 
 
 had a share in it; on the bishop, on the three suc- 
 cessive deans, on the country and diocese at large. 
 There may be other churches which, in some points, 
 come nearer to ideal perfection, but then there is 
 none which has in the same way risen to a new life 
 out of a state of such seemingly hopeless ruin." 
 
 V. The peculiar ground-plan of Llandaff Cathedral 
 has already been mentioned. Leaving for the present 
 further notice of it, and of the general exterior, we 
 approach the western front, descending towards it from 
 the high table-land on which the city — so we are 
 bound to call the village of Llandaff — is placed. The 
 cathedral stands at the foot of a steep ridge which 
 rises abruptly from the green alluvial meadows through 
 which the Taff winds onward to the sea at Cardiff. 
 The river gives name to Llandaff — the " Church on the 
 Taff" — as it possibly does to Cardiff, the "caer" or 
 castle on the Taff. The hill closes round the cathedral 
 on the south and west ; on the other sides it is open 
 to the low ground ; but so completely is it nestled 
 beneath the ridge that, in approaching it from ' the 
 west, only the upper part of the new spire is visible, 
 until we stand above the cathedral, at the edge of the 
 descent. Such a position for a cathedral church is 
 unknown in England; and is, indeed, most rare for 
 any other, except, perhaps, for the churches of some 
 Cistercian monasteries. But in Wales the site of St. 
 David's greatly resembles that of Llandaff. Bangor 
 stands on low ground ; and St. Asaph alone is placed 
 high on the ridge of the hill. The earlier history of 
 
16 f tabaff Ca%kal. 
 
 Llandaff (see Part II.) and of St. David's, probably 
 explains this unusual choice of site. Although the 
 circumstances attending the foundation of both sees 
 are obscure, it is almost certain that the first church or 
 oratory at either place was attached to a college 
 or community of religious persons ruled by the 
 teachers (St. David and St. Dubricius) who were, or 
 afterwards became, the first bishops of the two South 
 Welsh dioceses. The chief advantages sought by the 
 founders of such communities were shelter and seclu- 
 sion ; and we thus find the cathedrals which arose on 
 the same sites occupying the low protected ground 
 which was best fitted for the huts and rude buildings 
 of an early British convent. The sites of these Welsh 
 cathedrals have never been changed ; and it was im- 
 possible that important towns should at any time rise 
 around them. In England the places of those sees 
 (such as Crediton, Sherborne, and Dorchester), which 
 from their remote position most nearly resembled the 
 Welsh (although they were chosen for different reasons), 
 were removed, shortly before or after the Norman 
 Conquest, from the open country to large and chief 
 towns. 
 
 VI. The plan of the west front of Llandaff Cathe- 
 dral (see Frontispiece) — a gabled centre flanked by 
 towers— has not been changed since the church was 
 extended westward by the builders of the Early 
 English period. As it now exists, the central portion 
 alone is entirely of that date, although portions of the 
 earlier work remain in the lower parts of both towers. 
 
LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE I. 
 
 LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. WEST ENTRANCE. 
 
Mtst $xtnd. 17 
 
 The north-west tower is Perpendicular, with a modern 
 battlement and pinnacles; the south-west, with its 
 spire, is altogether modern. In spite of differences in 
 style, however, the whole composition is very graceful 
 and harmonious ; and, as seen from the garden of the 
 deanery, beyond a foreground of trees, is especially 
 picturesque. The pure Early English of the centre is 
 not brought into too sharp contrast with the richer 
 work of the towers. This is most elaborate in the 
 pinnacles and battlements, raised far above the central 
 gable ; whilst the lofty spire gives variety of outline 
 to a church of which it is the chief feature, and in- 
 creases the dignity of the flanking towers, which alone 
 give the character of a cathedral to the exterior of the 
 building. 
 
 The details of these towers will be better described 
 with the general exterior (see post, § xxiii.). The 
 Early English front has received such restoration as 
 was necessary; but happily it had remained almost 
 perfect after the falling of the nave roofs, and of the 
 south-west tower. Few details were injured ; and 
 there was no room for doubt as to the character of 
 such portions as called for renewal. The composition 
 is in three stages. In the lowest is the western portal ; 
 the centre contains the three lights of the west 
 window ; and, in the highest, is a single light flanked 
 by a blind arcade. This opening, it is probable, for- 
 merly gave light and air to the space above the nave 
 roof. 
 
 The portal (Plate I.) on either side of which the 
 
 c 
 
18 f taimff ffiat&Aral. 
 
 wall is perfectly unadorned, is very unusual in form 
 and design, but is of no remarkable beauty. The outer 
 arch is round ; but the details prove conclusively that 
 the portal is Early English ; and, " for the position in 
 which it is actually placed, the round head gives a 
 more suitable proportion than a pointed one." The 
 doorway itself, set deep within this outer arch, is 
 formed by two narrow round-headed arches, which 
 were never divided by a central shaft, as is evident 
 from the construction of the key-stone containing a 
 vesica in the tympanum. In this vesica is an episcopal 
 figure, probably meant to represent St. Dubricius or 
 St. Teilo. Detached shafts, banded and ornamented 
 in an unusual manner, and having richly-sculptured 
 capitals, carry the inner mouldings of the portal — plain 
 filleted rolls. The window arches in the second stage 
 are pointed. That in the centre is the highest, and the 
 three lights are divided by the narrow arch of a blind 
 arcade. The shafts from which the arches spring are 
 doubly banded. The composition thus fills the entire 
 breadth of the front, and the crown of the central 
 light rises to the base of the string course dividing 
 this stage from the one above it. Three small sculp- 
 tured flowers are fixed in the wall on either side of 
 this central light, relieving its plain surface. The 
 masonry of this wall, and that filling the blind arches, 
 curves outward in order apparently to give strength 
 to a treatment necessarily weakened by an internal 
 
 Freeman, p. 13. 
 
Mzst gxoxd. 
 
 19 
 
 passage leading from tower to tower. In the third 
 stage the single light is pointed, and on either side 
 are three blank trefoil - headed arches, "adapted to 
 the shape of the gable, so that a cusp of each is 
 lost on the side nearest the central window." p Above, 
 again, in the crown of the gable, is a single trefoiled 
 arch, containing a figure of Our Lord in Majesty, 
 the right hand upraised in benediction, the left sup- 
 porting the Book of Life. q The cross which now 
 crowns the gable is modern, but is a faithful copy of 
 the original. 
 
 This central portion, the west end of the nave, has 
 the great merit of displaying the actual construction 
 simply and distinctly, whilst its several stages show 
 the greatest skill in architectural arrangement, and in 
 the judicious use of ornament/ The west front of 
 Ripon Cathedral, nearly of the same date, is of similar 
 character. There, also, the gabled centre is the termi- 
 nation of the nave, and is flanked by towers. But 
 
 p Freeman, p. 15. 
 
 q For some further remarks on this figure, see Appendix B to 
 Part I. 
 
 r "This facade stands almost by itself among English 
 cathedrals — Ilipon being, I believe, the only other exception — 
 as an example at this date of the simple and beautiful arrange- 
 ment so delighted in by the architects of the previous era. We 
 have here no masking of the real construction by unnatural 
 and ugly pieces of wall, as at Lincoln, Salisbury, and Wells ; 
 nothing frittered away on unmeaning arcades, as in the two 
 first of those examples ; no sacrifice of the queen art to one of 
 its subordinates, as in the third; the architectural construction 
 is not disguised, but ornamented, and ornamented in the most 
 tasteful and judicious manner." — Freeman, pp. 12, 13. 
 
 c 2 
 
20 flmrimff «a%irral 
 
 pure and beautiful as is the design of Eipon, it is 
 exceeded in grace and variety of arrangement by that 
 of Llandaff. Eipon is on a much larger scale, and the 
 single portal of Llandaff cannot fairly be compared 
 with the triple arches and doorways of the Northern 
 Cathedral. But the upper stages of Eipon, filled with 
 lancet lights, are comparatively flat and unimaginative. 
 The west front of the Church of St. Eemigius, at 
 Eheims, before a restoration to which of late years it 
 has been subjected, had, as has been pointed out by 
 the Bishop of Llandaff, some features in which it 
 strongly resembled the west front of this cathedral. 
 The arrangement of the lancet lights with narrow 
 blind arches between them, in the stage above the 
 portal, is identical ; and above occurs, as at Llandaff, 
 the wall arcade with a central light, although some- 
 what differently treated. 8 
 
 VII. Those alone who remember the condition of 
 Llandaff Cathedral thirty years since, when the western 
 half of the nave was in ruin and the Italian temple 
 
 8 ' Account of the condition of the Fabric of Llandaff,' &c, 
 p. 2, where will be found an engraving of the west front of • 
 St. Eemi, "avant sa restauration." The Bishop adds, "the 
 similarity .... is so striking that it is difficult not to imagine 
 either that the architect of Llandaff was identical with the 
 architect of St. Eemi, or that if they were not the same they 
 had some common type, which they adapted to their several 
 works." The latter is no doubt the more probable supposition. 
 Unless the singular portal of Llandaff be regarded as foreign, 
 there is no trace there of those peculiarities of the French 
 early pointed style which are found in other details of the west 
 front of St. Eemi. 
 
Inferior. 21 
 
 was untouched, can fully appreciate the beauty of the 
 present interior, or estimate the zeal and labour which 
 have produced so excellent a restoration. Standing at 
 the western entrance, the nave, choir, and presbytery 
 open before us, if not precisely in their ancient con- 
 dition, yet more nearly approaching it than has been 
 the case for at least three centuries (Plate II.). If the 
 exterior of the church has little of that special character 
 which should mark a cathedral, this cannot be said of 
 the interior. The want of transepts is here not evident. 
 The main arcade is of unusual grace and dignity, and 
 the eye is led down the long range, unbroken by a 
 central tower, to the remarkable Norman arch termi- 
 nating the presbytery, and beyond it to the vaulted 
 roof and east window of the Lady Chapel. The roof 
 is carried throughout at the same elevation, and is 
 unbroken except by a modern arch marking the sepa- 
 ration of the choir and presbytery. There is not at 
 present, whatever the ancient arrangement may have 
 been, a closed screen between the nave and the ritual 
 choir. The whole interior is thus open ; but the com- 
 paratively small scale prevents that long gallery-like 
 appearance which such a cathedral as Exeter, with its 
 unbroken roof and no central tower, would certainly 
 present, were the closed stone choir-screen removed, 
 or even replaced by one of lighter work. 
 
 The nave consisted of five bays (counting from the 
 western portal) ; the choir of three, and the presbytery 
 of two. The distinction between the nave and the 
 ancient ritual choir is marked by the low stone walls 
 
22 $Ianbaff fiat^toal. 
 
 between the piers which divide the latter from the 
 aisles, and by a certain difference in the piers of the 
 arcade (see post, § ix.). Both nave and choir (that is, 
 the whole of the church from the west front to the 
 modern arch dividing the choir from the presbytery) 
 are of pure Early English character, and belong to 
 the first half of the thirteenth century, from about 
 1220. 
 
 VIII. The main arcade of both nave and choir is 
 surmounted by a clerestory, within which is a wall 
 passage. There is no triforium. The piers of the nave 
 (Plate III., for the plan of the piers see Plate VIII.) 
 are massive, yet by no means heavy ; and the sculpture 
 with which the capitals are decorated, sparingly intro- 
 duced as it is, is of great beauty. " The pier is neither 
 an aggregate of small shafts, nor yet an assemblage of 
 such round a larger central one, but consists of an 
 angular mass with a cluster of three shafts attached to 
 the principal faces. The shafts have the same keel 
 form as those at St. David's, and one or two share the 
 peculiarity of the absence of the neck moulding. The 
 arch is without any moulding, strictly so called, but 
 besides an outer label of the keel form terminating in 
 foliage, another similar one is inserted in an angle of 
 the pier — an arrangement of which I do not know 
 another instance." 1 Some of the shaft capitals were 
 blocked out and prepared for carving, but still remain 
 unsculptured. The carving of those completed deserves 
 
 * Freeman, p. 28. 
 
LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE III. 
 
 LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. BAY OF NAVE 
 
LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE IV 
 
 LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. INTERIOR WEST END OF NAVE- 
 
gtafc. 23 
 
 especial notice. The foliage is graceful and has much 
 natural character; but is still restrained by the con- 
 ventionalism which was not thrown off until the end of 
 the century. In the fourth bay (north side), termi- 
 nating the inner arch moulding, is a finely-sculptured 
 head, with a linen band passed across the mouth ; and 
 opposite, on the south side, is a child looking through 
 a collar which he holds in his hands — a figure almost 
 Florentine in character. 
 
 Between the piers rise triple-clustered vaulting 
 shafts, in two stages. The bases of the lower stage 
 rest on the capitals of the inner pier shafts. Their 
 capitals are on a line with the string course at the base 
 of the clerestory, and the second stage springs from 
 them, terminating in capitals above the clerestory. 
 
 Although some restoration of the nave piers and 
 arches was required, none of them had been destroyed, 
 and their carving for the most part remained uninjured. 
 But the clerestory had disappeared altogether, except 
 in a single bay on the south side, where it remained so 
 complete as to render the entire restoration quite uncon- 
 jectural. In each bay the inner arcade consists of two 
 wider arches, separated and flanked by a narrow arch, 
 acutely pointed, and rising nearly to the height of the 
 others. The arches spring from engaged shafts, with 
 carved capitals. At the back of each larger arch the 
 wall is pierced for light. 
 
 The arrangement of the west end of the nave is 
 especially good (Plate IV.). There is a descent of 
 several steps from the portal. " This allows much 
 
24 f tabaff «H%braL 
 
 greater height to be given to the central stage con- 
 taining the window, without encroaching on that 
 below ; the space occupied without by the tympanum 
 of the doorway being taken into the former, while the 
 loss is made up to the latter by the space gained 
 below the external basement." u The triplet itself 
 fills the whole width of the nave — the external narrow 
 arches not appearing within — and its mouldings, 
 shafts, and capitals produce an unusually rich effect. 
 A group of the window shafts is brought to the 
 ground on either side of the portal, thus uniting the 
 two stages in one design. The gable light above 
 the triplet was probably above the original roof (see 
 § xi.). " The skill with which the internal and ex- 
 ternal arrangements " of the west, front, " each the 
 better suited for its own position, are adapted to each 
 other, deserves our best study and admiration." x 
 
 IX. There is, as has already been said, no con- 
 structional difference between the nave and the ritual 
 choir. This latter is marked by the low Early English 
 wall, contemporary with the piers, which divides the 
 choir from the aisles, and by a change in the character 
 of the architecture. The walls extend for only two 
 bays west of the presbytery ; the architectural differ- 
 ence is carried through three. The piers have fewer 
 members, and the roof or vaulting shafts are recessed 
 in the wall, instead of projecting, as in the nave 
 (Plates V. and VIII.). By a recent (1870) arrange- 
 
 u Freeman, p. 25. 
 
 * Ibid. 
 
LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE V. 
 
25 
 
 ment the stalls of the choir, with the organ in the 
 north-eastern arch, occupy two bays instead of one; 
 but it is possible that this may have been the case 
 anciently, and that a rood screen, crossing at the 
 third bay from the presbytery arch, divided the nave 
 from the ritual choir. It is at this bay that the 
 change in the pier shafts occurs. The architectural 
 treatment of the wall backing the choir stalls is very 
 good. In the second bay, on the south side, there 
 is a remarkable difference of level between the bases 
 of the shafts which carry the inner arch moulding, 
 those on the east side being higher than those on the 
 west. This difference cannot well be accounted for. 
 The opposite shafts, on the north side, are even. 
 
 The most noticeable feature of the choir, however, 
 is the manner in which the easternmost arches, on either 
 side, are blocked by a solid wall, within which is placed 
 a much smaller arch, of the same Early English cha- 
 racter, and no doubt of the same date. In the aisles it 
 is seen that from the western piers of these bays sprang 
 an arch carried across each aisle. The spring of these 
 arches is sufficiently evident ; but as the aisle walls 
 have been rebuilt above the windows, no corresponding 
 traces can there be discovered. There is also in the 
 south aisle, at its eastern end, an arch of construction 
 thrown over a lower one which opens into the vaulted 
 bay now serving as a vestibule to the chapter-house. 
 It was suggested by Mr. Freeman, whose theory has 
 been generally accepted, that these points — the closed 
 bay on either side of the choir, the spring of the 
 
26 f tatoff Cfttyebral. 
 
 destroyed arches, and the closed eastern arch of the 
 south aisle — are remaining traces of a pair of small 
 eastern towers, flanking the choir, while larger ones 
 rose at the termination of the nave. The closed bays 
 were intended to strengthen the piers. All must have 
 been part of the original Early English design ; but 
 we have no evidence that these eastern towers were 
 ever completed. 7 
 
 X. The aisles of both nave and choir were rebuilt, 
 at least from the level of the windows, in the latest 
 Decorated period. The rebuilding or remodelling of 
 these aisles followed that of the presbytery and its 
 aisles ; which, as we shall see (§ xiii.), are of somewhat 
 earlier date. In the choir aisles, some portions of the 
 Early English masonry remain — in the easternmost bay 
 of the south aisle (the basement of the S. E. tower), 
 and in the lower part of the two eastern bays of the 
 north aisle. The windows (PI ie VI.), inserted at the 
 time of remodelling, and restored during the recent 
 works, are of one type, and display reticulated tracery 
 under ogee headings. (For the modern stained glass 
 see post, § xxi.). In each aisle there are two portals — 
 a larger toward the west, and a smaller more east- 
 ward. The smaller are certainly Decorated. The 
 larger are of Norman character, and their date will 
 
 y Freeman, pp. 67, 68. " The position of these towers would 
 have been exactly similar to those at Exeter, except that the 
 latter have the aisle between them and the main body of the 
 church, while these at Llandaff must have risen out of the 
 aisles. " — Id. 
 
LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE VI. 
 
 LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL AISLE WINDOW. SOUTH SIDE. 
 
be better discussed in describing the exterior of the 
 church (see § xxn.). 
 
 XI. The roofs of nave, choir, and presbytery are of 
 course entirely modern. They are open roofs of wood, 
 that of the presbytery being somewhat more elaborate 
 than the continuous roof of nave and choir. The 
 propriety of these roofs has been much questioned. 
 It is clear from the fact that the Early English roof 
 shafts reach to the top of the masonry, and do not 
 terminate as would be the case with shafts intended to 
 carry vaulting, at some distance below it, that the 
 original roof was a flat ceiling of wood of the same 
 general character as those which still exist at Peter- 
 borough, at St. Albans, and (somewhat altered in 
 the fourteenth century from its original form and 
 pitch) at Ely. 2 We have indeed no evidence that such 
 a ceiling was ever completed at Llandaff: but there 
 can be no doubt as to the intention of the thirteenth 
 century builders. Mr. Freeman insists that the new 
 roof should have reproduced this flat ceiling — not only 
 on the principle of faithful restoration, but because 
 " the carrying out of verticality by contrast so con- 
 spicuous in this mode of roofing produces a much 
 greater effect of height, and is a better development of 
 the Gothic principle than the high-pitched timber roof 
 added to the walls without any aesthetical connection 
 
 z At the west end, " the ledge for the ceiling to rest upon is 
 distinctly visible, and while the masonry below is of ashlar, 
 that above, which would have been concealed by the ceiliug, is 
 of rubble." — Freeman^ p. 30. 
 
28 f Imtimff Ca%im*I. 
 
 with them." a The student may well be left to form 
 his own conclusions. It should be remembered, how- 
 ever, that the great height of Ely and Peterborough 
 prevents the flat ceiling from pressing on the eye, as 
 it certainly would at a lower elevation. A flat roof 
 was only adopted by Norman or thirteenth-century 
 builders when the space to be covered was wider than 
 their skill enabled them to vault with stone, or when 
 for any other reason a vault was impossible or 
 undesirable. It is true that the present roof has no 
 connection with the shafts or roofing arrangements of 
 the ancient walls ; b but whether the Early English 
 builders would have rejected it, had such a con- 
 struction been within their power, may fairly remain 
 an open question. 
 
 The aisle roofs in both nave and choir are also new, 
 and the stone arches which now cross each bay have 
 been introduced in connection with external buttresses 
 (see § xxii.). 
 
 XII. Of the modern work in this part of the 
 cathedral, the stalls, the organ, the pulpit, and the font 
 may here be mentioned. The stained glass throughout 
 the cathedral is described in § xxi. ; and the monu- 
 ments, ancient and modern, in § xx. 
 
 A low screen of wood, the base of which is inlaid 
 
 a Page 31. 
 
 b It has, however, principles which were especially designed 
 to be suited to, and to start from, the existing shafts. It should 
 be added that Mr. Prichard, the designer of the roof, does not 
 believe that the original ceiling was flat, except over the 
 westernmost bay, between the towers. 
 
Stalls. ©rgmt. 29 
 
 with monograms and texts, separates the choir from 
 the nave. The stalls, which occupy two bays, are, like 
 the Bishop's throne and the base of the screen, inlaid 
 with variously coloured woods — a mode of decoration 
 which is open to serious objection, and which hardly 
 produces sufficient effect to reward the great labour 
 expended on it. In itself the work is excellent, as is 
 the general design. Small figures of the Apostles are 
 introduced between the sub-stalls. The Bishop's 
 throne, at the east end of the south side, has a lofty 
 and enriched canopy, terminated by a finial, the form 
 of which, that of the head of a pastoral staff — is not to 
 be commended. Figures of the four Doctors of the 
 Latin Church, and those of some Anglican Reformers 
 are introduced in portions of the canopy. The larger 
 panels, east and west, represent (E.) St. Paul preaching 
 to the " Men of Athens" — and (W.) Our Lord's Com- 
 mand to St. Peter— " Feed My Sheep." In front of 
 the desk is a sculptured panel with the dispersion of 
 ' the Apostles — according to the command " Go ye and 
 teach all nations." All this stall-work, designed by 
 Mr. Pri chard, has been executed by workmen living 
 at Llandaff, and is of very great merit. The principal 
 wood used is teak. 
 
 The Organ, on the north side of the choir, is by 
 Gray and Davison, and was built under the superin- 
 tendence of Sir Frederick A. Gore Ouseley, Bart. 
 The trumpet stops project at right angles into the 
 choir in a manner but recently introduced in this 
 country — but which has long been used at Seville 
 
30 flanimff dufytixnl 
 
 and in other Spanish cathedrals. It is asserted that 
 the sound is more generally distributed by this 
 arrangement ; but the effect to those who sit opposite 
 is somewhat overpowering. It is hardly fair to com- 
 plain that the projecting pipes are unsightly. At 
 least they tell their own story plainly enough. The 
 front of the organ, of teak wood, is carved and in- 
 laid (in bar wood and ebony) with the words — " 
 all ye birds of the air, all ye beasts and cattle, 
 bless ye the Lord and glorify him for ever. Praise 
 ye the Lord. Praise God in his sanctuary — Praise ye 
 the Lord." 
 
 All traces of former organs had long disappeared 
 when that which now exists was completed and opened 
 in September, 1861. An organ had been given to the 
 cathedral after the Restoration by the Lady Kemeys 
 of Cefn Mabley — but when Browne Willis described 
 Llandaff in 1717 some broken pipes were all that 
 remained of this instrument. The musical portion of 
 the service was left to the voices of the school 
 children, under the leading of the bass-viol of their 
 master. 
 
 The Pulpit on the north side, is of Caen stone, with 
 shafts of various marbles. In the panels are figures 
 from designs by Woolner, representing Moses with 
 the tables of the law, David, John the Baptist, and 
 St. Paul. These figures are unconventional, and very 
 striking. David is imagined as having just awakened 
 a strange tone upon his harp, which carries his soul 
 into an unseen world. His dress is from the Nineveh 
 
fdpxi. $o\xl $tttbgterg. 31 
 
 marbles, — and lie treads on a sling and pebbles with- 
 out noticing them, — an indication that his youthful 
 simplicity has passed away. St. John the Precursor 
 appears full of awe, and announcing the coming of the 
 Saviour. He wears the Arab haik of camel's hair. At 
 his feet are the reeds of the Jordan. St. Paul the 
 "Expounder" is preaching the word of truth. He 
 tramples on a broken sword headed by the Eoman 
 eagle, to show his scorn for his former life. 
 
 The Font, on the south side of the nave, was 
 designed by Mr. Seddon (the partner of Mr. Prichard), 
 and was given to the cathedral by the Very Kev. T. 
 Williams, the present (1871) Dean. The sculptures 
 in the arcade round the bowl represent subjects from 
 the history of Noah, treated to some extent after the 
 manner of the thirteenth- century sculptures, repre- 
 senting the same subjects, in the chapter-house at 
 Salisbury. The base moulding is carved with a net 
 enclosing fishes. The work deserves careful attention. 
 
 XIII. The arch which divides the choir from the 
 presbytery is, as has been said, entirely modern, 
 although in preparing its foundations the bases of 
 Norman shafts were discovered, indicating that a 
 Norman arch once existed in the same position. The 
 Presbytery itself is of two bays ; and entering it, we 
 pass into a portion of the church differing in date, 
 (though hardly in general character) from the choir 
 and nave, and presenting some very difficult archi- 
 tectural problems. In whatever condition the presby- 
 tery may have been during the Early English period, 
 
32 f iaubaff 
 
 (when the nave and choir were constructed) the two 
 bays which it comprises were rebuilt when the De- 
 corated style had become fully developed — probably 
 during the first twenty years of the fourteenth 
 century. In rebuilding it, however, the architect 
 disjriayed a remarkable conservatism. He retained 
 not only the great Norman arch at the east end, 
 opening to the Lady Chapel, but also, on the south 
 side, a Norman wall, and portions of Norman windows. 
 Why these were not removed it is difficult to under- 
 stand ; but these Norman portions, together with the 
 bases of the arch piers already mentioned, are the sole 
 remaining traces of Bishop Urban's Norman Church, 
 and the only indications afforded to us for determining 
 its size and character, — unless, indeed, we consider 
 that the late Norman portals in the nave (post, § xxn.) 
 belonged to this earlier church. 
 
 Before discussing this, we may describe the existing 
 Decorated work. We shall presently (§ xviii.) see that 
 the Lady Chapel and the eastern bays of the presbytery 
 aisles — (the bays which project eastward of the presby- 
 tery itself) — are also Decorated, but of decidedly 
 earlier character than the presbytery. The work of 
 renovation eastward was begun with the Lady Chapel ; 
 and, probably after a short interval the presbytery and 
 its true aisles were rebuilt. At a later time again 
 (but still before the Decorated style had passed into 
 Perpendicular) the walls of the nave aisles, (as we have 
 seen, § x.) were reconstructed. The whole works may 
 have ranged over a considerable period, beginning 
 
Clerotorg of tht Jtesbgtcrg. 33 
 
 probably in the episcopate of William cle Bruce — 
 (1266-1287). 
 
 The two bays of the presbytery on the north side 
 were entirely rebuilt, and are Early Decorated — the 
 design having evidently been influenced by that of the 
 nave piers ; but neither the work itself nor the details 
 of moulding and foliage are by any means so good. 
 This portion of the church was included in the Italian 
 temple ; and the clerestory had been entirely destroyed. 
 There was not, as in the nave, a single fragment from 
 which an undoubted restoration could be attempted. 
 The existing clerestory, therefore, and the eastern 
 gable of the church, above the Norman arch, are 
 entirely new. The clerestory is a Decorated version 
 of that in the nave, happily adapted to the ancient 
 work with which it is associated. As in the nave, a 
 triforial wall passage runs along at the base of the 
 windows. At the east end, above the arch, is a 
 Decorated window, having a blind arch on either 
 side. The bases of all three, ranging with the tri- 
 forial passage, are guarded by a balustrade pierced 
 with quatrefoils ; and above the principal light is a 
 round window filled with tracery. The modern roof 
 of the presbytery is somewhat richer than that of the 
 nave and choir ; and the writer who has most strongly 
 objected to it admits that " though a feature quite out 
 of place in a cathedral, it has perhaps as good an effect 
 as one of the kind can have." 
 
 XIV. The appearance of the south side of the 
 c Freeman, p. 35. 
 
 D 
 
34 ftetbaff «a%bral. 
 
 presbytery shows that a Norman wall was cut through, 
 in order to construct the Decorated pier and arch. 
 This was probably the case on the north side also ; 
 for portions of a Norman string-course were found 
 above the piers during the late restoration. But on 
 the south side parts of the entire wall remain. The 
 head of a Norman window is seen east of the only 
 completed arch of the Decorated period ; whilst west 
 of it the head and jamb of another Norman window 
 remain, and part of an uncompleted Decorated arch 
 is allowed to join the head of the window in a very 
 remarkable manner (Plate VII.). Why such an arch 
 should have been begun at all, or why the Norman 
 window should have been so carefully retained, it is 
 difficult, if not impossible to determine. It has been 
 conjectured, and not perhaps without reason, that the 
 later builders were unwilling to disturb the remains 
 of St. Teilo, whose tomb, according to a very ancient 
 tradition was that which is still marked by an epi- 
 scopal effigy, nearly under this second Norman window. 
 The tomb recess itself has been restored ; but the 
 effigy, which remains within it, is of Early Decorated 
 character, and may possibly have been placed there 
 in honour of the saint when the presbytery was re- 
 modelled. d 
 
 d William of Worcester (' Itinerary/ ed. Nasmith, p. 116) says 
 that St. Teilo was one of the three Welsh saints whose 
 remains had been translated : — 
 
 " Sanctus Davidicus de ecclesia Menevensi 
 Sanctus Thebaus " (>ic) " de Llandaff sepultus 
 Sanctus Keneth de villa Keneth in Gowerland— 
 Isti ires sancti et non plures sunt translati in North Wallia." 
 
LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL, 
 
 PLATE VII. 
 
 LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. NORMAN WINDOW 
 ARCH. NORTH SIDE, 
 
 AND DECORATED 
 
^oxmnn ^attains. 35 
 
 However this may be, it is certain that these Norman 
 windows belonged to Bishop Urban' s Cathedral : and 
 that the chief if not the only surviving portions of 
 this Cathedral are contained in the present pres- 
 bytery ; and, perhaps, in the vaulted bay on the south 
 side, which connects it with the chapter-house. What 
 part of the Norman church was thus retained by the 
 Early English and later builders, is a question of 
 considerable difficulty. 
 
 It is indeed not certain, though highly probable, 
 that Urban's church was completed during his life- 
 time ; but it is clear that the great eastern arch which 
 now exists must have been an arch of division be- 
 tween two portions of the Cathedral, of which that 
 eastward of the arch may or may not have been finished 
 by the founder. Dean Conybeare considered that 
 Bishop Urban retained the primitive British church, 
 and made it serve as an eastern or Lady Chapel, to 
 which the arch gave admission. To this theory, how- 
 ever, there are many serious objections ; and Mr. 
 Freeman's opinion, that the arch was the choir arch 
 
 For the legend which asserted the multiplication of St. Teilo's 
 body, see Part II. There is no record of any translation at 
 Llandaff ; but if the passage from William of Worcester (cer- 
 tainly marked by one inaccuracy, for we can hardly suppose 
 that he writes North Wales to distinguish the principality from 
 the ancient " Welsh Wales " or Damnonia) is to be accepted as 
 of authority, he may refer to a translation of St. Teilo's 
 body from the British church to that of Bishop Urban. See 
 Appendix to Part I. The&aus may possibly be a transcriber's 
 error for TheZaus. 
 
 D 2 
 
36 f tartorff CafljekaL 
 
 of the Norman Cathedral, that the Norman portion 
 west of it belonged to the ancient nave, whilst the 
 Norman choir was removed altogether when the Lady 
 Chapel was built in the thirteenth century — is, though 
 not without difficulties, by far the most probable solu- 
 tion of the question that has hitherto been suggested. 
 It is not, indeed, easy on this hypothesis to account 
 for the bases, indicating the former existence of a 
 Norman arch, discovered when the present arch between 
 the choir and presbytery was constructed. It seems 
 probable that Urban' s nave extended one bay west of 
 this arch, and this western bay may have served as a 
 sort of galilee ; but such an arrangement, in so small 
 a nave, would be most unusual, if not without pre- 
 cedent. 
 
 That the Norman nave extended thus far was sug- 
 gested by Mr. Freeman, after an examination of the 
 remarkable traces of ancient work in the south choir 
 aisle. West of the unfinished Decorated arch and of 
 the Norman window connected with it, a portal opens 
 to a bay of the south aisle, now serving as a vestibule 
 to the chapter-house. This one bay is vaulted in a 
 style which may be called Early English, but which 
 retains some features of Norman. The bay opens into 
 the part of the aisle eastward of it, by a low arch ; 
 and Mr. Freeman thus describes the discoveries made 
 here — the results of which are now visible to all (see 
 Plate VIII.) :— 
 
 " Over the arch (the low east arch of the vaulted 
 bay) on the east side, I remarked a seam in the masonry, 
 
LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE VIII. 
 
 PLAN OF PIERS. 
 
 NAVE. 
 
 LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. NORMAN WINDOW AND DECORATED ARCH, 
 
 EAST SIDE. 
 
|hg of Soutlj fyizti. 37 
 
 with a chamfer of ashlar, as of the southern jamb 
 of some opening, which was not readily intelligible, 
 though I ought to mention that Mr. Prichard at once 
 suggested that it was a squint to the window in ques- 
 tion (the western Norman window). On removing the 
 masonry with which it was blocked, a long splay pre- 
 sented itself, which finally led to the outer shaft of 
 the window imbedded in the w T all, and revealing the 
 original section. The first inference would be that 
 the vaulted bay, whose existing features are Early 
 English or Transitional, was added to the Norman 
 work, and the masonry splayed off to prevent the 
 necessity of interfering with the window. But the 
 ashlar of the splay is part of the same stones as 
 the Norman shaft ; consequently this building, how- 
 ever much disguised, is an integral portion of 
 Urban's work. It has been vaulted, as I before said, 
 in Early English ; but its walls, at this point at 
 least, must be essentially Norman. I conclude that 
 at the Early English repair, the greater part of this 
 bay was internally cased with ashlar, as all the 
 Decorative features are evidently of a piece with 
 the ashlar surface. A small extent of rubble in the 
 north wall may be a bit of Urbans work peeping 
 through." e 
 
 Nothing can be added to this description. It 
 remains to conjecture what the structure can have 
 been thus attached to the Norman Cathedral. The 
 
 e 4 Remarks on Archit. of Llandaff Cathedral/ pp. 49, 50. 
 
38 ftaimff Catfejcbral. 
 
 suggestions will be different in accordance with the 
 belief that the existing presbytery was the nave or 
 choir of Urban's building. But if we suppose, as 
 with Mr. Freeman we believe is most probable, that 
 it formed the nave, we shall also be inclined to accept 
 his conjecture that the vaulted bay was the lower 
 story, serving as a porch, of a Norman tower. " And 
 if so, considering the general position of side door- 
 ways, we may make a good guess at the extent of 
 Urban's nave, — namely, that it extended one bay west- 
 ward of this porch, i.e. of the present arch into the 
 presbytery." f 
 
 The Norman windows show no indication of a 
 groove for glazing ; but it is impossible to believe 
 that they can have been other than external. The 
 Norman Cathedral must have been aisleless. 
 
 XV. The great eastern Norman arch of Llandaff 
 (Plate IX.) fairly suggests a comparison with the east- 
 ern arch, which, in the neighbouring cathedral of Here- 
 ford, opens from the choir into the ambulatory behind 
 it. This also is Norman, of somewhat earlier date 
 and character than the Llandaff arch ; and its position, 
 at first sight, seems to support the opinion that the 
 arch, in Urban's Cathedral, opened at the east end of 
 the choir, rather than, as we believe, between the 
 choir and the nave. But the Hereford arch belongs 
 to a building of much greater size and importance 
 than Urban's church can possibly have been. The 
 
 j Freeman, p. 51. 
 
LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. PLATE IX. 
 
 LANDAFP CATHEDRAL, NORMAN ARCH OF CHOIR 
 
(Eastern ^iamm gtrdj. 
 
 39 
 
 portions of Hereford Cathedral eastward of this arch, 
 as well as their ground-plan, were completely changed 
 during the Early English and Decorated periods, but 
 some transitional Norman work remains ; and it seems 
 probable that the Norman plan resembled that of 
 Gloucester and of Norwich ; and that the choir and 
 its aisles terminated in semicircular apses. Thus 
 the great eastern arch must have marked the spring 
 of the central apse. g It is difficult to believe that a 
 small, aisleless church, such as Urban's, can have had 
 an apsidal arch so enriched and so important as that 
 which now exists. Still, as Hereford was probably 
 completed shortly before Llandaff was begun, and as 
 Bishop Keinhelm, who completed it, was consecrated 
 to the see of Hereford on the same day (August 11, 
 1107) that Urban was consecrated to that of Llandaff 
 — the two bishops being thus contemporaries and 
 neighbours h — it is not impossible that the earlier 
 
 e The east end of the Norman cathedral of Hereford was 
 rebuilt in the transitional period (toward the end of the twelfth 
 century), and this transitional work was altered when the E. 
 English Lady Chapel was built, and parts were incorporated in 
 the latter. But the eastern arch is a part of the first Norman 
 work ; and it would seem that the original termination of the 
 church differed little from that to which it gave way in the 
 transitional period, except that the apses may have been on a 
 smaller scale. At any rate, the eastern arch must, at both times, 
 have opened to an apse. 
 
 h Reinhelm, bishop of Hereford, died in 1115. He is com- 
 memorated in an obituary of the Canons of Hereford as "fun- 
 dator ecclesiaa Sancti Ethelberti," which probably means that 
 he completed the cathedral. This was certainly begun by 
 Bishop Robert de Losing (1079-1095), who took for his model 
 
40 f tanbaff CatljebraL 
 
 church may have had some influence on the later. It 
 is only fair to suggest the comparison. 
 
 The Norman arch of Llandaff, like that of Hereford, 
 has received its principal enrichment on the western 
 side. It recedes in four orders ; and the inner soffete 
 is formed by two rolls, a continuation (above their 
 capitals) of the attached shafts below. The arch is 
 slightly stilted. The capitals of the angle shafts are 
 enriched with foliage and Norman ornament, and one 
 of these shafts is formed in zigzag, prolonging down- 
 ward. In this case the zigzag ornament is carried 
 round two outer orders of the arch. A roll moulding 
 of somewhat unusual design runs under the squared 
 abacus from which the arch itself springs, and which 
 is carried beyond it to the wall on either side, north 
 and south. The highest enrichment is given to the 
 arch by its exterior moulding, which, if not entirely 
 confined to Llandaff, is, at least, of the rarest occur- 
 rence. It consists of a circlet, studded with small 
 rounded projections, and within it, eight leaves, like 
 the petals of a flower, their points inward. The eye 
 is at once caught by this unusual and very effective 
 ornament. The Hereford arch is plainer and of greater 
 height; and certainly cannot have suggested any of 
 the Llandaff details. 
 
 It should here be said that the shafts of the Norman 
 
 « 
 
 the church of Aachen, founded by Charles the Great (W. 
 Malmcs. de Gestis Pontif.). Llandaff, it will be remembered, 
 was not begun until 1120, five years after the death of Rein- 
 helm. 
 
arch descend much lower than the platform of the 
 altar. The real height of the arch above the original 
 floor is thus concealed. This was discovered during 
 the restoration. It would, of course, have been very 
 desirable to have exposed the shafts entirely; but 
 it was necessary to preserve the elevation of the 
 altar. 
 
 XYI. The present arrangements of the presbytery 
 are of course modern. The first bay rises in two paces 
 from the choir. Five paces ascend from this to the 
 platform of the altar in the eastern bay. The floor is 
 laid with good tiling, varied with different marbles 
 inlaid in diamond patterns. In removing the stucco 
 of the Italian temple, which covered the whole of the 
 eastern end, the ancient reredos was found behind it, 
 dating from the latter part of the fourteenth century. 
 This has been carefully preserved, but its restoration 
 was hardly possible, and had it been carried out with 
 any success the result must have been the production 
 of, in effect, a new work. Accordingly, it has been 
 removed to the north choir aisle (see post, § xx.), and 
 has been replaced by a reredos of Caen stone, with 
 side shafts of polished marble. A battlemented cornice 
 extends across the great arch at the height of the 
 square abacus from which the arch itself springs. The 
 reredos below is divided into three arches, with foiled 
 headings, that in the centre being the widest. Gables 
 crowned with equal armed crosses rise above these 
 arches. The central gable is higher than the others, 
 and its cross rises nearly to the crown of the Norman 
 
42 f taimff «a%kaL 
 
 arch. The whole work is enriched with much well- 
 designed leafage ; and in the tympanum of the central 
 gable is the Lamb, with the banner, with a vine 
 encircling, it. The Lamb is treading on grapes, with 
 a reference to the words, " I have trodden the wine- 
 press alone." 1 
 
 The arches of the reredos have been filled by three 
 very striking pictures by Mr. Dante Gabriel Kossetti 
 — works of very great excellence and originality. In 
 the centre is the Nativity. On the north side, David 
 as a shepherd ; on the south, David as a king. The 
 following is Mr. Kossetti's description of the trip- 
 tych :— 
 
 " This picture shows Christ sprung from high and 
 low, as united in the person of David, who was both 
 shepherd and king, and worshipped by high and low 
 (by king and shepherd) at his birth. 
 
 " The centre piece is not a literal rendering of the 
 event of the Nativity, but rather a condensed symbol 
 of it. An angel has just entered the stable where 
 Christ is newly born, and leads by the hand a king 
 and a shepherd, who bow themselves before the manger 
 on which the Virgin Mother kneels, holding the Infant 
 Saviour. The shepherd kisses the hand, and the king 
 the foot of Christ, to denote the superiority in His 
 sight of lowliness to greatness ; while the one lays a 
 crook, the other a crown, at his feet. An angel kneels 
 behind the Virgin, with both arms about her, sup- 
 
 * Isaiah lxiii. 3. 
 
Ijfctaras on ^imto. §Jta. 43 
 
 porting her, and other angels look in through the 
 openings round the stable, or play on musical instru- 
 ments in the loft above. 
 
 " The two side figures represent David — one as a 
 shepherd, the other as king. In the first he is a youth, 
 and advances fearlessly but cautiously, sling in hand, 
 to take aim at Goliath, while the Israelite troops watch 
 the issue of the combat from behind an entrenchment. 
 In the second, he is a man of mature years, still armed 
 from battle, and composing on his harp a psalm in 
 thanksgiving for victory. The following versified 
 inscription might be written on the slab beneath the 
 triptych as an epitome of its meaning : — 
 
 i The Seed of David. 
 
 Christ sprang from David, shepherd, and even so 
 From David, king ; being born of high and low. 
 
 The shepherd lays his crook, the king his crown 
 Here at Christ's feet, and high and low bow down. 
 
 And high and low Christ's self is shown here, — even 
 Christ the Good Shepherd, Christ the King of Heaven/ " 
 
 Of the three pictures, the figure of the youthful 
 David is perhaps the finest. But the whole work is a 
 very noble one, in both design and execution. 
 
 The altar is vested in frontal and superfrontal, 
 designed by Messrs. Morris and Marshall. In front 
 is the Holy Lamb with the banner, and the deep 
 crimson velvet is powdered with flowers, and with 
 the inscription " Ecce Agnus Dei, qui tollit peccata 
 mundi." 
 
 On the highest pace, in front of the altar, are two 
 
massive candelabra of brass, having bosses and bases 
 set with agates and crystals. These were designed by- 
 Mr. Seddon, and executed by Hart, of London. They 
 were presented by the Rev. E. Turberville Williams, 
 Vicar of Caldicot. 
 
 The easternmost bay on the south side is filled by 
 modern sedilia, — (in the place of sedilia which had 
 been destroyed, but of the former existence of which 
 there was distinct evidence),— the work of Mr. 
 Prichard. There are four arches of equal height, 
 with highly enriched canopies above them ; the string- 
 course and parapet above crosses these canopies at a 
 level with the spring of the main arch. Small de- 
 tached shafts of marble carry the arcade of the sedilia. 
 At the extremities of the arcade are angels with up- 
 thrown wings ; in the gabled canopies are figures of 
 the four evangelists, and in the spandrils are roundels 
 containing birds and leafage, — among them the pelican 
 in her piety, and the peacock with expanded tail, an 
 ancient emblem of the Eesurrection. The work is 
 excellent, and reflects no small credit on the local 
 sculptors who carried out the designs of the archi- 
 tect. In this, and in all parts of the presbytery which 
 it was necessary to construct anew, Mr. Prichard has 
 carefully followed the Decorated character given to it 
 by the rebuilders of the fourteenth century. 
 
 XVII. The vaulted bay in the south aisle of the 
 presbytery, opening to the chapter-house, has been 
 already described. " The vaulting is pointed, but the 
 ribs and two of the capitals of the vaulting-shafts, 
 
must rather be called Komanesque, while the other 
 two capitals are good Early English." k In the aisle 
 beyond, the windows are Decorated, of somewhat earlier 
 character than those in the nave and choir. The 
 westernmost window is flat-headed, and of five lights 
 — an unusual feature in a church of large scale or 
 cathedral dignity. The tracery (except in the east 
 windows of both aisles, where it is Perpendicular, 
 inserted in Decorated jambs) is modern and con- 
 jectural ; the jambs, which alone remained, being suffi- 
 cient to show that the windows had been originally 
 Decorated. In the opposite aisle (north) the 
 windows are all pointed, Decorated, and filled with 
 new tracery. (For the stained glass, see § xxi. ; for the 
 monuments, § xx.) 
 
 XVIII. An arch of Early English character, but 
 
 Plan of Pier between Lady Chapel and South Aisle. 
 
 very early in the style, opens from the presbytery 
 aisles to the Lady Chapel. The western piers of these 
 
 k Freeman. 
 
46 ftaimff «H%braI. 
 
 arches rest against the Norman east wall of the pres- 
 bytery. They are probably of the same date as the 
 vaulted bay in the south aisle, and indicate apparently 
 that some change had been projected in the eastern 
 portion of the church before the construction of the 
 existing Lady Chapel. It is possible that these arches 
 represent the beginning of what was intended to have 
 been an Early English Lady Chapel ; that for some 
 reason the work here was delayed until the nave and 
 choir had been rebuilt in that style, at no long period 
 after which the existing chapel, of which the features 
 are Early Decorated, was erected. 
 
 The Lady Chapel itself is a parallelogram of five 
 bays, and, unlike any other part of the Cathedral, has 
 a stone vault. Except in the window tracery (early 
 Geometrical), and in some of the foliage, the work 
 shows little sign of the change from Early English ; — 
 although these indications are sufficient to place it at 
 the beginning of the next period. The chapel may 
 fairly be assigned to Bishop William de Bruce (1265- 
 1287), who is buried in it, according to a very general 
 custom, by which the founder was laid in that part of 
 the church which he had rebuilt or renewed. Bishop 
 Urban' s Norman choir, or the portion of his church 
 eastward of the great arch, if it had not been already 
 removed, was taken down when the Lady Chapel was 
 built. 
 
 The vaulting of the chapel, plain and simple, is 
 carried on Purbeck shafts, and has carved bosses at the 
 intersections. The side windows are of two trefoil 
 
47 
 
 lights, with a plain circlet in the head. 1 The east 
 window had been destroyed by Mr. Wood. The 
 
 Window of Lady Chapel. 
 
 1 It was ordered in 1740 that the "windows of the Lady s 
 Chapel, now in a tottering and ruinous condition, be with all 
 convenient speed repaired ; the great window at the east end 
 thereof to be taken down, a lesser window frame of good well- 
 seasoned oak timber put up in the room thereof, a good stone 
 arch made above such window, and the vacant spaces both 
 above and on the side thereof well walled up." It was also 
 directed that "the freestone jambs of the other six windows 
 in the said chapel be well repaired, and all those windows new 
 glazed." This order is quoted in the 'Account of the con- 
 dition of the Fabric of LlandafF Cathedral/ by the present 
 Bishop, page 29. 
 
48 ftabaff «a%bral. 
 
 jambs alone are ancient, and the existing tracery is 
 conjectural. The restoration of this window, in 1844, 
 was the first step toward that restoration of the whole 
 cathedral which has so recently been brought to a 
 happy conclusion. It is of five lights, and was designed 
 by Mr. Prichard, after the type of the chapter-house 
 windows in York Minster. In the stained glass which 
 fills it are inserted the armorial bearings of the Eev. 
 H. Douglas, the Precentor, whose dividend (ante, § iv.) 
 was granted for restoring this window ; of Bishop 
 Copleston ; of the Eev. J. M. Traherne, Chancellor of 
 the Cathedral ; and of the Eev. W. B. Knight, Chan- 
 cellor of the Diocese, and afterwards Dean. The 
 reredos — if it be proper to give that name to the 
 arrangement of the wall at the back of the altar, and 
 below the east window — has been carefully restored. 
 In the centre is a deep recess or tabernacle ; on each 
 side is an arcade of six arches in double tiers, and 
 at either end is a wider and larger recess. The 
 side compartments are original, and have been scarcely 
 touched. That in the centre is a facsimile of what 
 anciently existed. The work of the whole chapel is 
 equal to the Early English of the nave and choir, and 
 is superior to the Decorated of the presbytery. " Taken 
 alone, it would form an excellent model for a col- 
 legiate or palatial chapel." m For the monuments, see 
 § xx. 
 
 XIX. The Chapter House, which projects from the 
 m Freeman, p. 37. 
 
pairamercts. 49 
 
 south aisle of the presbytery, is of Early English cha- 
 racter, and is remarkable if not unique in form. Unlike 
 the ordinary forms — the oblong and the polygonal — this 
 chapter-house " is square, with a central pillar. The 
 effect is not pleasing, being that of a square playing 
 at a polygon. . . . The architect evidently preferred a 
 vault of a greater number of bays to the heaviness of one 
 vast square bay over the whole apartment, or even to 
 two oblong bays. He designed his roof of four bays, 
 which, consequently, required a central pillar to support 
 it ; it is exactly the same arrangement as in the great 
 staircase at Christ Church, though that, perhaps, from 
 jts greater size and different use, does not in the same 
 way suggest the polygonal form. The central pillar 
 is a plain round one, and there is no great amount of 
 detail in the building." n The chapter-house was 
 restored in 18 G7. The stage above it has been con- 
 verted into an octagonal building. Large squinches 
 at the angles, existing in the original walls, permitted 
 this arrangement to be carried out, and the archives of 
 the Cathedral are now deposited in this upper room. 
 The alteration of the ancient form of the chapter- 
 house, although that which has replaced it may be far 
 more pleasing, is a " restoration " of somewhat doubtful 
 propriety. 
 
 XX. The cathedral is not rich in monuments, al- 
 though it contains some which are interesting. 
 In the Lady Chapel is the altar tomb with effigies, 
 
 H Freeman, p. 39. 
 
 E 
 
50 flmtiraff «a%bral 
 
 of Christopher Mathew (d. 1500) and his wife (d. 1526). 
 He is in armour, and the sides of the altar tomb have 
 small figures of " weepers " much shattered. The 
 family of Mathew, now extinct at Llandaff, was an- 
 ciently one of great importance here. They became 
 possessed of the principal manor about 1400 by the 
 marriage of Sir Mathew ap Jevan with Janet, heir of 
 Sir Jenkyn le Flemyng, of Llandaff ; and formed after- 
 wards three branches : (1) of Llandaff, (2) of Castel 
 Menych, (3) of Eadyr. From a younger son of the 
 Castel Menych branch descended Toby Mathew, Arch- 
 bishop of York ; from that of Eadyr came the Irish 
 Earls of Llandaff. David Mathew, of Llandaff, and 
 Thomas Mathew, of Castel Menych, appear among the 
 intended " Knights of the Eoyal Oak." Eear- Admiral 
 Mathew, of Llandaff, of whose proceedings in the 
 Mediterranean, in 1744, there is an account in* Smol- 
 lett's £ History ' (chap. viii. § 8), as well as of the 
 court-martial that followed them, was the builder of 
 Bishop's Court, the house bought for the see by the 
 Ecclesiastical Commissioners. 
 
 On the wall of this chapel, in a niched recess, is a 
 brass for Bishop Copleston (1828-1849). 
 
 Bishop William de Bruce (d. 1287) was buried, ac- 
 cording to Godwin, in this chapel, on the north side 
 of the altar : " Marmore contectus jacet affabre sculpto.' , 
 His effigy, much worn, remains in its place, but is of 
 
 ° Tradition says that it was built during his absence, and 
 that when he saw it he said " he would never live in it, for he 
 had had enough of a three-decker." 
 
BJowtmcnts. 51 
 
 no great importance. The mitre bears the name of the 
 bishop, which is here spelt " Brews " (see Part II.). 
 On the floor beside it is a brass with inscription, 
 marking the spot where Bishop Copleston was 
 interred. 
 
 In the preshyterij \ on the south side, is the tomb 
 generally assigned to St. Teilo. (For what is known 
 of St. Teilo, who is regarded as joint-founder with 
 St. Dubricius of the see of Llandaff, see Part II.) 
 His death may be referred to the beginning of the 
 seventh century ; and if the life contained in the 
 Liber Landavensis is to be regarded as of authority in 
 the matter, it took place within the limits of his 
 diocese, if not at Llandaff. A singular legend is told 
 of the multiplication of his body by miracle (see 
 Part II.) ; but it is admitted that one of the three 
 bodies which presented themselves was buried at Llan- 
 daff, the place of his see. His remains would, of course, 
 have been most carefully preserved and replaced when 
 Bishoj} Urban erected his cathedral on the site of 
 the small British church ; and tradition has always 
 given to him this tomb on the south side of the pres- 
 bytery. It was so regarded in the time of Browne 
 Willis, who says, " That this was St. Teilaw's tomb 
 appeal's from several solemn oaths taken upon it;" and 
 it is certain that the usual oath of faithful observance 
 was made, " super tumbam Sancti Theliawi et super 
 omnia sacrosancta ejusdcm ecclesia;," or " super tumbam 
 S. Thelawi et super sacrosancta evangelia Ecclesiae de 
 Landav." The tomb was opened by the workmen em- 
 
 e 2 
 
52 
 
 ployed in constructing the Italian temple ; and when 
 the wall at the back of the portico, at the east end of 
 the presbytery, was taken down in 1850, the following 
 inscription was found on it : — 
 
 " September the 8th, 1736. 
 " On the south side of this chansell nare the door is a Tumbe 
 whin (within) a neach now wall'd up it is supposed to be Sant 
 Blawe" (a mistake either of the copyist or the inscriber for Teliau 
 or Teilo) " Tumbe when i opened the Tumbe the Tar son buried 
 apar'd to be a Bishop by his Pastorall Staffe & Crotcher. The 
 Stafe when we came to Tuch it it droped to peacis but the 
 Crocher being Puter But almost perished But wold hold 
 toogether. Betwithin the Stafe there was a large cup by his 
 side but almost perished The most of Puter he was rapt in 
 Leather and the upper part was very sound. , 
 " John Wood , 
 Architect of 
 
 Queen Sq r Bath. 
 " Thomas Omar 
 
 Joyner and Carpenter 
 of Queen Sq r ." p 
 
 The remains thus examined may have been those of 
 the supposed St. Teilo, as they had been replaced 
 by Bishop Urban. The recess itself is original. Its 
 ornamentation is modern. It is of Early Decorated 
 character, and the diaper of its canopy was executed 
 as a free gift by a son of Edward Clarke, the work- 
 man who sculptured the sedilia, rereclos, and other 
 modern stone -work. The ancient effigy which had 
 
 p This curious inscription is printed by the Bishop of Llandaff 
 in his ' Account of the Condition of the Fabric/ p. 24. It may 
 be hoped that the "inscriber" was the "joyner and carpenter,' 7 
 rather than the distinguished architect of Queen's Square. 
 
been walled up here, is of the early Decorated period. 
 It is that of a bishop, wearing the Eucharistic vest- 
 ments, with the mitre. The canopy is foiled, with a 
 ten-rayed star in the tympanum. On either side are 
 mutilated figures — an angel presenting the soul, and 
 the Virgin with the Holy Infant. These are much 
 shattered. If this effigy was really intended for St. 
 Teilo, it must have been sculptured and placed on his 
 tomb when the Norman work of this part of the church 
 was replaced by Decorated. 
 
 A tradition which also existed when Browne Willis 
 wrote his description of Llandaff, placed the tomb of 
 St. Dubricius on the north side of the presbytery, 
 nearly opposite to that assigned to St. Teilo. An 
 episcopal effigy, which may be of the Decorated period, 
 and is now in the north presbytery aisle, seems 
 anciently to have been placed under the easternmost 
 arch of the presbytery on this side, above the effigy of 
 Bishop Marshall. It is possible that it was sculp- 
 tured and placed above the tomb of St. Dubricius 
 at the same time as the figure of St. Teilo was 
 placed opposite. For the story of St. Dubricius see 
 Part II. q 
 
 The monument which now exists on the north side 
 of the presbytery is that of Bishop Marshall (1478- 
 1496). He is fully vested, with jewelled mitre and a 
 
 * Some remarks (too long for a note in this place) on the 
 tombs of St. Teilo and St. Dubricius, and on their connection 
 with the Norman Cathedral and the Decorated presbytery, will 
 be found in an Appendix to Part L 
 
54 f tobaff Cat^bral. 
 
 filleted staff. Something, perhaps a heart, has been 
 held between the hands, one of which is gone. On 
 the altar-tomb are escutcheons, bearing emblems of the 
 Passion. This monument, as well as an episcopal 
 throne on the south side opposite, were erected by 
 Bishop Marshall in his lifetime. The throne has, of 
 course, entirely disappeared ; but a remarkable paint- 
 ing which was attached to it, was discovered during 
 the restoration, and is now at Bishop's Court (see 
 post, § XXIV.). 
 
 In the north aisle of the presbytery and choir — 
 beginning from the west — are : 
 
 The effigy supposed to represent St. Dubricius, and 
 already mentioned. It was removed to the place it 
 now occupies in 1857. The recess in which it lies is 
 said to be the tomb of Bishop Bromfield (1389-1393). 
 At the back is the figure of a body emerging from a 
 tomb, a representation of the Eesurrection, uncommon 
 at this date. In front are shields, with emblems of 
 the Passion. 
 
 An emaciated female figure in a winding sheet ; one 
 of those unpleasing memorials which, in the latter 
 part of the fifteenth century, were not uncommon. It 
 has not been appropriated. 
 
 Eastward of this is placed the ancient reredos, 
 which was found behind the eastern " portico " of the 
 Italian temple when that was removed. It is Decorated 
 work of the first half of the fourteenth century, and 
 has been exceedingly rich and beautiful, though now 
 so shattered as to make its true restoration impossible. 
 
Utomtnmtts. 55 
 
 It consists of a long series of arched niches, having 
 above them a cornice with open roses and lilies. In 
 the spandrils of the arches are roundels, retaining 
 portions of the gilding with which they were once 
 covered. At each end of the space left for the altar 
 is a long narrow opening, squared, piercing quite 
 through the niche, and fitted with a movable slab of 
 stone. These openings may have been used for com- 
 municating with persons in the Lady Chapel, behind 
 the reredos. It is hardly possible that they can have 
 served as hagioscopes. 
 
 At the east end of the aisle is the altar tomb, with 
 effigy, of Sir David Mathew, standard-bearer to Edward 
 IY. at the battle of Towton (March 29, 1461). He 
 was killed at Neath by some of the Turbervilles, with 
 whom he was at feud. 
 
 In the south aisle of the presbytery, at the east end, 
 is an effigy, said to be that of a Lady Auclley. The 
 close muffler, or " barbe " round the chin, and the long 
 veil show that she was a widow — probably, suggests 
 Browne Willis, " the wife of John, Lord Audley, a 
 person of great possessions in these parts, and an 
 active man in suppressing the insurrection of Owen 
 Glendwr in the time of Henry I V., in the tenth year 
 of whose reign he departed this life." 
 
 In the north aisle of the nave, in the fifth bay from 
 the west, is the altar tomb, with effigies, of Sir William 
 Mathew and his wife Janet. The inscription records 
 the death of Sir William in 1528, and of his wife in 
 1530. The knight is fully armed, and at his head 
 
56 J Isnbaff tfatfeebral. 
 
 is a monk with a rosary. The sides of the tomb have 
 richly-decorated niches. 
 
 The effigy of an unknown bishop is placed in a wall 
 recess in this aisle ; and westward of it is a beautiful 
 modern monument for " Henry TJwmas, of Llewyn 
 Madoc in Brecknockshire, for eighteen years chairman 
 of Quarter Sessions for this county, died 1863." The 
 design is by Prichard ; the figures by Armstead. A 
 marble slab, inlaid with a cross and the holy lamb, 
 is supported by two arches, at the back of which are 
 sculptured (west) the Judgment of Solomon, (east) 
 Moses with the tables of the law. The figure of 
 Solomon is fine. It is unfortunate that the work 
 cannot be better lighted. 
 
 In the south aisle of the nave, in the second bay 
 from the east is a wide-arched wall recess, which may, 
 perhaps, have served as a reliquary ; pieces of broken 
 glass found within it when it was opened (hiring the 
 late restoration indicating possibly that the front of 
 the recess had been glazed. The low, wide form of 
 the arch (which has no mouldings) does not mark 
 its date with certainty. It may have been part of the 
 Early English work ; though it seems more probable 
 that it was constructed when the walls of the nave 
 aisles were rebuilt in the Late Decorated period. 
 
 In this aisle also, close to the west of the small 
 eastern portal, is the recumbent figure of a bishop, 
 transferred, together with the niche in which it lies, 
 from the dwarf wall at the back of the stall-work. It 
 has not been appropriated. 
 
Stainxlr (glass. 
 
 57 
 
 XXI. The stained glass throughout the Cathedral is, 
 of course, entirely modern. Some of the most im- 
 portant windows (especially the triplet at the west end, 
 of the nave) are still plainly glazed. It is to be 
 regretted that, as is too often the case, many different 
 artists have been employed, thus interfering with the 
 uniformity which should prevail, if not throughout 
 the church, at least in each of its great divisions. 
 The glass of Morris and Marshall attracts attention as 
 well by its peculiar character as by its excellence. 
 Their figures are set in a delicate grisaille, which fills 
 the greater part of the lights, and from which the 
 bright colours shine out like jewels. The south aisle 
 of the presbytery contains two windows by these 
 artists ; the east window, in which the subjects are the 
 Saviour as King and Priest, Elizabeth and the Baptist, 
 and Melchizedek ; and the large flat-headed window, 
 in which is the Crucifixion. The window between 
 these, representing miracles of our Lord, is by Lavers 
 and Barraud. In the south choir aisle are two win- 
 dows by Clayton and Bell; and in the north aisle, 
 windows by O'Connor and by Morris. The east win- 
 dows of the presbytery, and the east window of the 
 Lady Chapel are also filled with stained glass, — 
 the former by O'Connor, the latter by Willement, from 
 a design by Prichard. 
 
 XXII. We return to the exterior of the cathedral. 
 The peculiarity of outline on which Mr. Freeman 
 has dwelt at much length— the long unbroken roof of 
 nave, choir and presbytery ; the flat unbuttressed aisle 
 
58 fknbaff Cn%kaL 
 
 walls ; the absence of transepts ; and " the entire 
 want of any central point to produce harmony and 
 pyramidal effect ; " — all this, although still essentially 
 unchanged, has received considerable modification in 
 the course of the restoration; and the new south- 
 western tower and spire, with the conical roof of 
 the chapter house, add some cathedral dignity to a 
 church of which the ground plan is undoubtedly 
 formed on the parochial type. The division between 
 choir and presbytery is now marked by the base of an 
 intended fleche, rising from the roof above the arch 
 which marks the separation within. Buttresses have 
 also been added in connection with interior arches 
 (§ xi.), so as to strengthen the aisle walls, and to 
 break the flat surface. The lowering of the floor of 
 the nave, to the original level, involved the lowering 
 of numerous modern vaults. These were so near the 
 nave piers (which had absolutely no foundations), that 
 the whole nave was in jeopardy; and the arcades, 
 already overhanging, threatened a further decline. To 
 prevent this the buttresses and segmental arches were 
 introduced. The buttresses of the Lady Chapel are 
 original, and always distinguished this portion of the 
 exterior from the rest of the church. They are capped 
 by modern pinnacles on either side of the eastern gable. 
 The external roof of the Lady Chapel was formerly 
 of a much higher pitch. If this cannot be restored, 
 the adoption of a loftier parapet would, perhaps, bring 
 the Lady Chapel more into connection with the steep 
 eastern gable of the presbytery. 
 
C-Jjapter jprms*. 59 
 
 An enriched portal of Decorated character, in no 
 sense a restoration, but a modern and original design 
 — has replaced a modern square-headed doorway of 
 wood, opening to the south aisle of the presbytery. 
 Like the chapter-house which adjoins it, it breaks the 
 long line of wall. The beautiful parapet cresting the 
 aisle wall is also modern. 
 
 The Chapter Souse, before the late restoration, ter- 
 minated as a square building, with a low-raised roof, 
 a little above the roof of the aisle. Browne Willis's 
 engraving shows an external staircase, leading to the 
 upper story, which was then used as a parish school- 
 room. This upper story has been entirely rebuilt, 
 and, instead of the former square form, it is now 
 octagonal, that change having been suggested by very 
 large interior squinches, which certainly pointed to 
 some construction above them of octangular form, 
 which may or may not have been completed. The 
 chapter-house is now covered with an octangular 
 conical roof, crowned by a small figure of the arch- 
 angel Gabriel. It is impossible to deny that the 
 effect is good and striking, or that the general view 
 of the south side is improved by the change ; but 
 since the first builders had, notwithstanding the 
 squinches, carried up the second story with squared 
 walls, it may be doubted whether the alteration is 
 altogether legitimate. The rebuilding of the second 
 story was, however, a matter of necessity. 
 
 The Norman portals toward the west end of both 
 aisles, call for especial attention. They are much 
 
60 flmtbaff «a%braL 
 
 enriclied ; and both are of very late character. The 
 south portal has its orders enriched with double zigzag 
 and double lozenge mouldings. The shafts on which 
 they rest have scalloped capitals with square abaci. 
 The side jambs of the doorway have a moulding of 
 angles united by straight lines. The outer moulding 
 of the portal has the ordinary Etruscan scroll, of rare 
 occurrence in Norman ornament, but not without pre- 
 cedent. The north portal (Plate X.) has fewer orders, 
 and but one shaft ; the ornaments are double lozenges 
 and zigzags ; the outer moulding is the dog-tooth, or 
 reversed lily flower. 
 
 The date of these portals, and their connection with 
 the early English nave, are questions of considerable 
 difficulty. There can be no doubt that they are much 
 later — at least half a century — than the great eastern 
 arch, or the other Norm in work of the presbytery; 
 and it is nearly as certain that they must be earlier 
 than the arcade of the nave. The western portal, 
 although round-headed, has no Norman detail or orna- 
 ment, and belongs unquestionably to the same period 
 as the rest of the west front. Mr. Freeman suggests 
 that "the aisle walls were built before the arcades, 
 and the stoppages which often took place, or even the 
 mere slowness with which such great works were 
 carried on, will allow us ample time to account for the 
 slight advance of style between them." r It is difficult 
 under any hypothesis to believe that the Norman 
 
 r Freeman, p. 65. 
 
LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE X. 
 
 LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. NORTH DOORWAT. 
 
cathedral extended thus far. If it did so extend, it 
 cannot have been completed until long after Urban's 
 time, and its nave must have been destroyed almost 
 as soon as finished, to make room for that which now 
 exists. Mr. Freeman's suggestion is far more pro- 
 bable. 
 
 In each aisle there is a smaller doorway farther 
 to the east. These are Decorated, of the same date as 
 the windows, but without enrichment. Above that on 
 the south side is a vesica-shaped niche, with a bracket. 
 
 XXIII. The Western Towers remain to be described. 
 
 The north-western, or Perpendicular tower, affords, 
 like the Norman work in the presbytery, a curious 
 proof of the conservatism of its builders. It takes the 
 place of an Early English tower which had probably 
 become unsafe ; but the arches on which it rests, east 
 and south, are those of its predecessor, and part of the 
 Early English west wall, with a portion of the internal 
 jamb of the west window, has been united to the Per- 
 pendicular work in a very skilful manner. The tower 
 itself, massive and simple, rises in three stages, and 
 is crowned by a most elaborate parapet, with rich 
 pinnacles of open-work. The buttresses, which have 
 many stages, do not rise to the top of the tower ; an 
 unusual arrangement, and certainly a defect, since the 
 pinnacles, in ordinary cases, spring from the but- 
 tresses. Here they overhang the tower. 
 
 The large belfry windows in the upper stage are 
 filled with ornamental stone-work f instead of luffer- 
 boards. This is an enrichment frequent in Somerset- 
 
62 f tariff 
 
 shire, and is so beautiful that we may wonder it has 
 not been more generally adopted. One of the pin- 
 nacles of the tower fell in the last century, and 
 assisted in ruining the north aisle of the nave. The 
 rest speedily followed ; and in the late restoration it 
 was necessary to construct altogether afresh the whole 
 of the parapet with its pinnacles. It resembles, but 
 is somewhat richer than, that of St. John's Church at 
 Cardiff; and whilst there can be no doubt that the 
 whole design is one of great beauty > it must be ad- 
 mitted that the want of connection between the parapet 
 and the tower is an architectural defect, due, of course, 
 to the original builders, and not to the present archi- 
 tect, who has but restored, though with some additional 
 enrichment, the former " coronal " of the tower. A 
 spire of open-work, rising slightly above other pin- 
 nacles, terminates the stair turret. 
 
 This tower, remarks Mr. Freeman, may be regarded 
 as an exception to the statement (quoted in § II. 
 note 2), that the architectural splendours of the two 
 great Welsh cathedrals are to be regarded as some- 
 thing exotic, and not calculated to excite any distinctly 
 Cambrian patriotism. "For it has always been at- 
 tributed to one who was not only a native Welshman, 
 but in whom and whose family the blood of the 
 ancient British princes — if that lofty extraction be a 
 genealogical reality — was brought into close alliance 
 with the royal houses of England and France, with 
 the blood of Alfred and St. Lewis. It was erected by 
 Jasper Tudor, Earl of Pembroke, and afterwards Duke 
 
Soutlj-Ktesfmt Kofocr. 63 
 
 of Bedford, a son of the romantic marriage between 
 Queen Catherine of France, the widow of Henry V., 
 and the simple Welsh gentleman, Owen Tudor ; and 
 consequently paternal uncle to Henry VII." s 
 
 The south-western tower and spire are entirely new, 
 and entirely the work of Mr. Prichard. This is, of 
 course, the feature of the existing cathedral which 
 first attracts attention, and which has so greatly 
 altered its ancient outline. An Early English tower 
 which, as has been already recorded (§ in.), partly fell, 
 and was in part removed, during the last century, 
 rose on this side of the west front, and was lower 
 than the Perpendicular tower opposite. (The heights 
 of the- two towers are given as 89 and 105 feet.) 
 As far as old drawings can be relied upon, this 
 tower was bare and poor in outline, and unworthy 
 of the beautiful front which it flanked. No record 
 exists of the Early English tower, replaced by the 
 Perpendicular ; but it is most probable that, as usual, 
 the two were precisely alike. 
 
 Of the south-west tower a mere fragment remained 
 when the restoration of the western portion of the 
 nave was begun after 1857. It cannot, of course, be 
 said that the new tower and spire are in any sense a 
 restoration ; and very competent architectural judges 
 have found fault with the work, partly on the score 
 that the Early English tower was not replaced, and 
 partly because Mr. Prichard's tower is of foreign 
 
 * Freeman, p. 78. 
 
64 f hxtiuS <Ka%braI. 
 
 rather than English character. To such objections the 
 safest answer is an appeal to the striking beauty and 
 effect of the new work. Had the former tower re- 
 mained in a sufficiently perfect state, the proper course 
 would have been to restore it, however plain its details 
 or however unsatisfactory its outline. But this was 
 impossible ; and the architect was therefore at liberty 
 to use his own discretion, recollecting that the Early 
 English front was already flanked on one side by 
 a Perpendicular tower, and that no uniformity would 
 be broken by giving that a companion of somewhat 
 different character. It is true that the general design 
 suggests the school of northern France, and especially 
 some towers of Lower Normandy. But if this be a 
 fault, it may surely be said that the work has been 
 brought into admirable harmony with the rest of the 
 church, and that the eye rests with infinite pleasure on 
 the graceful, enriched spire, balanced as it is by the 
 mass of delicate open tracery which crowns the tower 
 of Jasper Tudor, 
 
 The tower and spire rise to a height of 195 feet 
 7 inches. The stone used is oolite from various quar- 
 ries, — that from the Campden quarries giving a peculiar 
 golden tint to portions of the work. The lower story 
 is groined ; and massive buttresses, to resist the thrust, 
 project at the west, south-west, and south-east angles. 
 These terminate in open canopies with pyramidal roofs. 
 Under the canopies are figures of St. Peter and St. 
 Paul ; to the first, and perhaps to both, of whom the 
 cathedral was dedicated by Bishop Urban (see ante, 
 
SSjoatlj- Astern: (Tofoer. 65 
 
 § ii. note b ) ; and of Bishop Ollivant, during whose 
 episcopate the new tower has been built, and the 
 restoration of the cathedral completed. (The western 
 side of the buttress beneath has a sculptured bas- 
 relief of the building, with the tower and spire, to 
 commemorate the date.) Immediately above the 
 south aisle roof, against which the tower abuts, is a 
 range of arches, in which are placed seated figures 
 of the four evangelists, with their symbols at their 
 feet. The original tower, of which the lines were 
 thus far followed, was a parallelogram. In order to 
 reduce it to a square, so that it might carry the 
 octagonal spire, these arches were constructed, — dying 
 into a deep range of laminated courses. 
 
 The ringing floor in the second stage of the tower 
 is lighted by simple two-light windows. The belfry 
 stage above at once suggests the w T est front, from 
 which the design has been happily borrowed. The 
 two-light windows are flanked by niches under pointed 
 arches, and contain sculptured figures, representing 
 various nations, — the " gathering " of the universal net 
 of the Church. Above the arches of the windows, out 
 of their spandrils, project in watchful attitude the 
 heads of great converters of the nations, over the types 
 of which they are placed. A machicolated cornice 
 and an open parapet crown this stage. From it the 
 spire rises in a way which is no doubt French, but 
 which admirably connects it with the lower work, and 
 which in itself is full of beautiful effect and variety of 
 outline. And if the form be French, the details ar 
 
 F 
 
66 fhmbaff tfatjftbral. 
 
 thoroughly English, and well in keeping with those of 
 the west front below. 
 
 XXIV. Before the spire was added the Cathedral 
 was almost hidden from the high table-land west of 
 it, on which the " city " of Llandaff stands. This 
 city is but a village ; and there is no reason for be- 
 lieving that it was at any time of more importance 
 than at present. But the Cathedral was the ecclesi- 
 astical centre of the district ; and it was as well, no 
 doubt, to mark its position, as to give additional dig- 
 nity, that a campanile or bell- tower was erected on the 
 high ground, at no great distance from the west front. 
 This bell-tower has almost completely disappeared; 
 and no record has been preserved of its destruction 
 or of its ruin. Some fragments of the lower arches, 
 the mouldings of which show that the tower was built 
 towards the middle of the thirteenth century, remain 
 behind a cottage at the south end of the Dean's 
 garden. 
 
 This bell- tower, with the castellated palace of the 
 bishops, which rose at no great distance, must have 
 been conspicuous landmarks. Of the castle (see Title- 
 page) little remains beyond the massive gateway, 
 which is on such a scale as to indicate that the 
 entire building must have been of considerable size 
 and importance. The gateway may belong to the 
 early part of the fourteenth century. " The remains 
 have nothing distinctively episcopal about them ; they 
 might as well have been the stronghold of any 
 Norman robber, the lair of the wolf of the fold, 
 
$emahts of Cnstk. 
 
 67 
 
 rather than the dwelling of its shepherd." 1 They 
 )now serve as the boundary of the garden of Bishop's 
 Court, the modern palace. This is a good country 
 house, having attached to it a small and well-designed 
 domestic chapel. 
 
 In the garden of Bishop's Court are preserved the 
 two urns which stood one on either side of the roof 
 of Mr. Wood's temple, at the west end. On the 
 pedestals is the inscription, — 
 
 " Quae . Ecclesi83 . Cathedralis . Fastigio . Inipositse 
 
 Piam . Magis . Quani . Felicem 
 In . JEdificio . Sacro . Instaurando . Et . Omando 
 Sseculi . Curarn 
 Centum . Annos . Coniniemoraverant 
 Hue . Demum 
 Antiqua . Ecclesia3 . Specie . Eestituta 
 Ab . Alfredo . Episoopo . Landavensi 
 Translate . Sunt . Urns3 
 
 A . D . MDCCCLII 
 
 In the library, as part of its ornamental fitting, are 
 l^laced the columns, pilasters, and cornices which 
 formed part of the woodwork of the choir in the Italian 
 choir. And on the staircase is hung a curious picture, 
 which formed part of the throne erected in the Cathe- 
 dral by Bishop Marshall in 1480, and which was ap- 
 parently fastened to the back of it. It was placed ov 
 the top of the Italian portico when that was constructed 
 in 1736, and was found when it was removed. The 
 picture represents the Virgin ascending through the 
 starry firmament, supported by seven angels with ex- 
 
 * Freeman, p. 4. 
 
68 yitrolraff «a%bral. 
 
 panded wings. Above, on either side, is an angel 
 playing on a musical instrument. Below, on the 
 left, is an angel holding an escutcheon, with the arms 
 of the bishop and see; and on the right a figure of 
 Bishop Marshall himself, with uplifted hands, with a 
 scroll apparently proceeding from his mouth, and 
 bearing the words 
 
 " O Virgo scandens sis Marshall ccelica pandens." 
 
 XXV. The restoration of the Cathedral has been 
 attended by others no less essential. The houses of 
 the cathedral clergy had been allowed to fall into com- 
 plete decay. It does not indeed appear that they were 
 at any time of much size or importance ; and the 
 deanery and canon' s-house, built from the designs of 
 Mr. Christian, the Ecclesiastical Commissioners' archi- 
 tect, are beyond a doubt far larger and better than any 
 which had preceded them. The office of Dean had been 
 vacant for some centuries before it was refilled in 1843, 
 by Chancellor Bruce-Knight, to whose zeal, and to 
 that of his successors, Dean Conybeare and Dean 
 Williams, the restoration of the Cathedral has been 
 greatly indebted. The canons are now resident as 
 elsewhere, for three months at a time ; and it is unfor- 
 tunate that the one residentiary-house which has been 
 built for the four canons, does not permit the introduc- 
 tion of a better system, or of more continued residence. 
 But this is a defect which admits of remedy ; and at any 
 rate the improvement is enormous since 1850, when 
 (March 13) the present Bishop of Llandaff presented 
 
Improkmtnt oi fyz Serbia. 69 
 
 himself for installation, and his demand " was re- 
 sponded to by the late excellent and highly respected 
 Vicar- Choral, the only ecclesiastic at that time in 
 residence, having all the cathedral, parochial, and 
 pastoral duties of Llandaff, which then included the 
 hamlets of Canton and Ely, resting upon him." u The 
 services of the restored Cathedral are fully appreciated. 
 On Sundays the church is thronged from end to end, 
 and we may point to the restoration of Llandaff as no 
 slight and no unsatisfactory answer to those who insist 
 that the Welsh Church is possessed of but feeble life, 
 and retains little hold on the affections of the people . x 
 
 u Charge of the Bishop of Llandaff, August, 1869, p. 5. The 
 Vicar-Choral, the Eev. K. Prichard, B.D., was the father of the 
 architect who has so successfully carried out the restoration of 
 the Cathedral. 
 
 x A Welsh-speaking man of the labouring class, who could 
 neither read nor write, spontaneously made the remark to 
 myself, as he observed the children of the several schools, and 
 the large congregation, returning from the Cathedral after 
 service one Lord's-day morning, — " The world is a very different 
 world from what it was when I was a boy." The same 
 individual told me— and I record it with deep regret, but have 
 no doubt of its truth, for he was a man of strong common 
 sense, and no flatterer — that in his early days not more than 
 about half-a-dozen used to attend the cathedral service, and 
 that the rest of the Llandaff people used to sit at their doors 
 "jeering at those that went.'' — Charge of the Bishop of Llandaff 
 (1869), p. 19. 
 
APPENDIX (A) to PART I. 
 
 §xx. 
 
 THE authenticity of the tombs of St. Teilo and St. 
 Dubricius, and the disposition during the successive 
 changes of the church, of the relics which they contained, 
 suggest some difficult questions. It does not appear that the 
 relics of either saint were at any time enshrined. It is 
 expressly stated that Bishop Urban, after bringing the relics 
 of Dubricius from Eardsey Island, placed them "in tumbam 
 ad hoc aptam." There is no record of any later translation, 
 and no mention of a shrine at any time. The vows made at 
 the tomb of St. Teilo seem to prove the same thing. Had 
 his relics been preserved in a portable shrine, that surely 
 would have been chosen to confirm such obligations. The 
 passage before (§ xiv., note) quoted from William of Wor- 
 cester, possibly refers to the translation of the saint's remains 
 from the British Church to the Norman. 
 
 But did they, as well as the relics of St. Dubricius, undergo 
 more than one such translation? The question is closely 
 connected with the architectural changes of the Cathedral, 
 and with the doubt whether the present presbytery was the 
 nave or the choir of Urban's church. 
 
 In the first place, the life of St. Dubricius in the Liber 
 Landavensis (which in what it asserts of the acts of Bishop 
 Urban may fairly be accepted as authoritative) tells us that, 
 when the relics were brought from Bardsey, they were placed 
 " in tumbam ad hoc aptam, et in antiquo monasterio, ante 
 Sanctse Mariae altare versus aquilonalem plagam." (L. Land., 
 
71 
 
 p. 83). The writer goes on to state that the bishop, " videns 
 loci parvitatem . . . coepit monasterium ma jus construere in 
 honore Petri Apostoli, et sanctorum confessorum Dubricii, 
 Teliani, Oudocei." (The passage is quoted at length, § n., 
 note). St. Teilo had been buried, after his death, in the 
 "antiquum monasterium;" and it follows that if Bishop 
 Urban pulled this entirely down after (or during) the con- 
 struction of the " monasterium majus," the relics of the two 
 saints must have been translated into the latter. 
 
 Now it is quite impossible that Urban would have placed 
 the tombs of these two saints, the founders of the see, and the 
 especial patrons of Llandaff, in the nave of his Norman 
 Cathedral. The position of St. Teilo's tomb in the British 
 Church is unknown ; but, as we have just seen, a place of the 
 highest honour was given in it to that of St. Dubricius. 
 Translated to the Norman Cathedral, it is most likely that 
 the relics of Dubricius were placed in a similar tomb, on the 
 north side of the high altar, whilst those of St. Teilo were 
 placed opposite. 
 
 But if this were so, and if the present presbytery was 
 Urban's nave, the remains must have been translated again, 
 and new tombs constructed for them, after the Norman choir 
 had been pulled down. Thus they would be made to occupy 
 the same relative positions in the Decorated presbytery as 
 they had occupied in the Norman choir. 
 
 If we accept this theory however (which may be regarded 
 as a certainty, on the supposition that the presbytery was the 
 Norman nave), we must give up the notion that the Decorated 
 arcade was not completed on the south side from a fear 
 of interfering with St. Teilo's tomb. That tomb can never 
 have been in the Norman nave. On the other hand, if the 
 existing presbytery was really the Norman choir, the tombs 
 may have remained untouched, and may have received only 
 the addition of episcopal effigies, a not uncommon proceeding 
 when a portion of a church was rebuilt, and one of which 
 there are many examples in the Cathedral Church of AW- lis. 
 This argument may be placed side by side with the resem- 
 
72 
 
 flattbaff d£a%kal. 
 
 blance of the eastern arch of Llandaff to that of Hereford ; 
 but although both points seem worthy of consideration, there 
 is certainly great difficulty in supposing that the very enriched 
 and massive arch of Llandaff opened only to an eastern apse, 
 and that in a comparatively small church. 
 
 It is remarkable that no chronicler has recorded the suc- 
 cessive translations of St. Teilo and St. Dubricius, which 
 upon one of these theories must have taken place. For this 
 we may perhaps account by assuming that Welsh saints 
 were regarded as of little importance beyond their own 
 territory, though we should certainly have expected to find 
 in some part of the ' Liber Landavensis' a record of the 
 removal of St. Dubricius's relics from the 8 antiquum Monas- 
 terium,' where they were first laid, to the Norman church. 
 It is still more remarkable that if such translations occurred, 
 the saintly relics were never enshrined, but that at each 
 change they were replaced " in tumbas ad hoc aptas." 
 
 North Door of .Nave. 
 
APPENDIX (B). 
 
 § II. Note. 
 
 THE ' Liber Landavensis ' was apparently the work of 
 Geoffrey, brother of Urban, Bishop of Llandaff, from 1107 
 to 1133. Besides lives of the saints connected with the see, 
 it contains numerous grants, charters, and records illustrating 
 the history of Llandaff from the foundation of the see to the 
 year 1131. The book was no doubt compiled from authentic 
 materials ; and it is entirely free from the legends of King 
 Arthur with which St. Dubricius is connected in the 
 4 History ' of Geoffrey of Monmouth. " But the internal 
 evidence of the book is sufficient to prove that all the earlier 
 charters contained in it were not contemporary with their 
 professed dates, but were drawn up at a much later period, 
 probably not long before the compilation of the volume itself, 
 and are simply statements, founded upon varying amounts of 
 information, and cast into the form of charters, of the circum- 
 stances under which this or that church or land was possessed 
 or claimed by the See of Llandaff, in the twelfth century, at 
 the time of an angry and protracted contest between that see 
 and those of St. David's and Hereford, for a large portion of 
 those churches and lands. The parallel Breton charters, and 
 the still more closely parallel charters of the Abbey of Llan- 
 carvan in the Vita S. Cadoci (' Cambro-Brit. Saints,' 86-92), 
 are of a similar character." y 
 
 The original MS. of the ' Liber Landavensis ' was in the 
 
 y Haddan and Stubbs, 1 Councils,' i. p. 117, note. 
 
74 
 
 keeping of the Church of Llandaff until shortly before 
 the year 1655, at which time Dugdale, in the first volume 
 of the ' Monasticon ' refers to it as being in the possession of 
 John Selden. The later history of the book is very un- 
 certain. The Bishop of Llandaff has shown (' Archaeologia 
 Cambrensis,' 1868), that it was again in the possession of the 
 Llandaff Chapter in 1693. But, in 1696, it seems to have 
 become the property of Mr. Davies, of Llanerch, who supplied 
 one leaf of the present binding. Since that time it had been 
 completely lost sight of until within the last few years. Its 
 existence was unknown when, in 1840, the ' Liber ' was 
 edited (from MS. cojjies in the libraries of Hengwrt and of 
 Jesus College, Oxford), for the Welsh MSS. Society, by the 
 Eev. W. J. Kees. It is now the property of Philip B. 
 Davies-Cooke, Esq., of Owston Park, Doncaster. 
 
 The MS. copy in the Hengwrt library contains a pen-and- 
 ink drawing, which is reproduced as a frontispiece to Mr. 
 Kees' edition, and is called a figure of St. Teilo. This, how- 
 ever, it certainly is not. It is a copy of a remarkable bronze 
 figure which remains fastened to the original leaf of the 
 binding of the MS. This figure, which is in full relief, is 
 61 inches long, and portions of the gilding with which it was 
 formerly covered are still visible. It occupies the centre of 
 the cover, and represents not St. Teilo, but Our Lord Him- 
 self in glory, seated on a rainbow. The right hand is up- 
 lifted in the act of blessing ; the left rests on a closed 
 book (the Liber Vitas). This figure closely resembles one in 
 the gable of the west front of Llandaff Cathedral (Part I. 
 § vi.) and may possibly have been designed by the same 
 artist. 
 
 The leaf of the binding to which it is fastened is a thick 
 oaken board, once overlaid with gold and silver, and partially 
 jewelled. Some of the small pins which fixed the metal- 
 work to the oak remain ; and some traces of silver exist 
 round the bronze figure. The rest seems to have been 
 cut away with a knife. The other leaf of the cover 
 (oaken board) was supplied by Mr. Kobert Davies in 
 
75 
 
 1696, and bears this inscription : — " Librum hunc temporis 
 injurias passum novantiquo tegmine muniri curavit K. D. 
 1696." 
 
 This original MS. has been used as the authority for all 
 the extracts printed in Messrs. Haddan and Stubbs' ' Councils 
 and Ecclesiastical Documents relating to Great Britain and 
 Ireland.' A full account of the MS., by the Eev. A. W. 
 Haddan, will be found in the 4 Archseologia Cambrensis ' for 
 1868. 
 
LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 fjisiarg of tlje §bzz, bitty JSIjort $jtotke8 nf % principal 
 fisljops. 
 
 IT is sometimes asserted that the see of Llandaff is the most 
 ancient which now exists in Great Britain ; but this 
 statement, even when explained as meaning that the see is 
 the most ancient which remains in its original place, is at 
 least doubtful. The date of actual foundation of the four 
 Welsh sees is altogether unknown, and we can only ap- 
 proach it by noting the recorded date of each founder's 
 death. Bishop Daniel, the founder of Bangor, died in 
 a.d. 584 : St. David in 601 : St. Kentigern, the probable 
 founder of St. Asaph, in 612; in which year also died 
 Dubricius, the founder of Llandaff. Llanbadarn, a see 
 which existed but a short time, was founded by St. Padarn, 
 a contemporary of St. David and St. Teilo. These dates 
 afford no evidence as to the higher antiquity of any one of 
 the Welsh sees. It is even uncertain whether Canterbury, 
 dating from St. Augustine's consecration in 597, be not as 
 ancient as Llandaff. a 
 
 * The great antiquity sometimes claimed for the See of 
 Llandaff may possibly be referred to the supposed foundation 
 of the see by the shadowy King Lucius, circa a.d. 180. The 
 'Liber Landavensis ' (12th century, — p. 65) gives the story of 
 the conversion of Lucius by missionaries sent to Britain by the 
 Pope Eleutherus, or Eleutherius, but without special reference 
 
pigtag of % SSte. 
 
 77 
 
 The manner in which the ecclesiastical organization of 
 Roman Wales was replaced by a purely British arrange- 
 ment, when the four existing sees were founded, each 
 diocese being conterminous with a new principality, has 
 been already described (Introduction to the present 
 volume). The see of Llandaff was founded for the princi- 
 pality of Gwent (Monmouthshire), and ultimately for that 
 of Morganwg (Glamorganshire). Its founders were — St. 
 Dubricius or Dyfryg, who had resigned the see for some 
 time before his death in 612 — and his successor St. Teilo, 
 the date of whose death is unknown. In accordance with 
 the earliest custom of the Welsh Church, the church of 
 Llandaff was named from its principal founder, as St. Teilo 
 was always held to have been, notwithstanding the esta- 
 blishment of the see under his predecessor Dyfryg. b Teilo 
 was the chief of the three saints (the others were Dyfryg 
 and Oudocens, the third bishop), who w T ere regarded as the 
 patrons of Llandaff. The diocese is sometimes called " the 
 diocese of Teilo," and the Bishop of Llandaff is (almost 
 always in earlier documents) " Episcopus Teiliau," " Escob 
 
 to Llandaff. But the Triads connect the story directly with 
 this see. where " Lleirwg (Lucius) made the first church, 
 which was the first in the Isle of Britain." For the evidence 
 about Lucius see Eaddan and Stubbs, ' Councils,' I. pp. 25, 26. 
 "It would seem that the bare story of the conversion of a 
 British prince (temp. Eleutheri) originated in Rome during the 
 5th or 6th centuries ; almost 300 or more years after the date 
 assigned to the story itself ; that Bede in the 8th century intro- 
 duced it into England, and that by the 9th century it had 
 grown into the conversion of the whole of Britain ; while the 
 full-fledged fiction, connecting it specially with Wales and with 
 Glastonbury, and entering into details, grew up between cen- 
 turies 9 and 12."-7c?. p. 26. 
 
 b The dedications of the Welsh churches have been carefully 
 examined and tabled by the Rev. Rice Rees in his 4 Essay on 
 the Welsh Saints,' London, 1836. The earliest churches are 
 named after their founders (p. 64). 
 
78 
 
 Teilaw"— the Bishop of Teilo. The earlier Welsh form, 
 however, was not retained here, as it was at St. David's 
 and St. Asaph. 
 
 The ' Book of Llandaff,' compiled a.d. 1120—1133 c by 
 "Magister Galfridus," brother of Urban, the first bishop 
 placed in the see by Norman Conquerors, contains lives of 
 Dubricius and of Teilo. But they cannot claim even an 
 approach to history, and any attempt to extract from them 
 what grains of truth they may contain would be worse than 
 useless. They tell us, however, what was believed — or at 
 least what it was wished should be believed — in the twelfth 
 century concerning the founders of the church of Llandaff; 
 and a short abstract of each life may here be given. 
 
 [Dyfryg or Dubricius was the son of Eurddil, daughter 
 of Pebiau, King of Ergyng (Archenfield, a district of Mon- 
 mouthshire). Pebiau, discovering the pregnancy of Eurddil, 
 was greatly enraged, and ordered her to be thrown into the 
 river, tied in a sack. The river flung her forth ; and when 
 she was placed alive on a blazing funeral pile, fire would 
 not harm her. Those who sought on the following day for 
 her bones, found her sitting unharmed, and holding in her 
 arms her new-born son. Pebiau was struck with awe. 
 Mother and child were brought to him, and the touch of 
 the child's hands instantly cured the king of a disease to 
 which he had been long subject. 
 
 Dyfryg " increased daily in growth and knowledge." 
 The fame of his learning spread far through Britain. 
 " When he became a man " scholars and doctors flocked to 
 him from all quarters ; and among them is expressly men- 
 tioned Teilo. 44 He retained 2000 clergy for seven suc- 
 cessive years" at Henllan, on the Wye (Hentland, in 
 Herefordshire), and taught them " during another space of 
 time" in Ynys Eurddil, an island in the Wye, where he 
 founded an oratory. On one occasion Dubricius and his 
 
 c See Part I., § II., note c . 
 
St. ^utaitius. 
 
 79 
 
 " family " visited St. I lit yd, who ruled a great monastic 
 establishment or " college " at Caerworgern, where he or- 
 dained St. Sampson, afterwards Archbishop of Dol, in 
 Brittany, deacon, priest, and bishop, on the same day. d 
 (The life had not mentioned the ordination of Dyfryg 
 himself, or his episcopal consecration. It would seem that 
 this, and the foundation of the see at Llandaff, must have 
 taken place long before.) Various miracles are then re- 
 corded; and at length Dyfryg, ''being weary through 
 infirmities and old age, resigned the laborious office of a 
 bishop," and for many years lived the life of a hermit in 
 the Isle of Bardsey, where he died and was buried. Then 
 follows an account of the translation of his relics to Llandaff, 
 by Bishop Urban, in 1120 — an account which is no doubt 
 authentic. The relics were removed from Bardsey in the 
 presence of David, Bishop of Bangor, and of Griffith, King 
 of North Wales. When brought to Llandaff they were 
 placed " to be washed with water after so long a journey" 
 in three basins before the altar of St. Peter and the three 
 local saints. " By the touch of the holy relics the water 
 bubbled as if a red-hot stone had been thrown into it. 5 ' 
 They were then, as has been said (Appendix A to Pt. I.), 
 " placed in a fitting tomb." 
 
 A life of Dubricius, founded on this in the Book of 
 Llandaff, was written hy Benedict of Gloucester, later in 
 the century. In the interval the famous Book of Geoffrey 
 of Monmouth had appeared, and the legends which it con- 
 tains were used by the later biographer of the saint. One 
 of them is the story of the coronation of Arthur by Du- 
 
 11 The Life of St. Sampson, also in the 4 Book of Llandaff,' 
 does not mention this. Sampson there beholds a vision of St. 
 Peter, St. James, and St. John. They tell him that he is 
 " pre-elected to be a bishop ' and " confirm him with a 
 heavenly blessing." The next day he is consecrated by Dubri- 
 cius —here called " Occidentals Britannia? Archiepiscopus " — ■ 
 For this archiepiscopal claim see Introduction to this volume. 
 
80 f tatiraff «a%bral. 
 
 bricius. There was also a Llandaff legend (which does not 
 appear in the first life) asserting that Dubricius had been 
 consecrated by St. Germanus — an assertion which is im- 
 possible, if the year 612 is accepted as the true date of 
 Dubricius' death. 6 
 
 St. Teilo, the second bishop and chief founder of Llan- 
 daff, was also called Eliud — a corruption, according to his 
 biographer, of the Greek Helios, " for his learning shone as 
 the sun." He was taught as a boy by Dubricius, and after- 
 wards abode for some time in the college or monastery of 
 Paulinus or "Pawl Hen," at Whitland, in Caermarthen- 
 shire — a place which seems at that time to have been the 
 chief centre of learning, at least in South Wales. There 
 St. David was his fellow-student; and in some manner, 
 which is not clearly explained in the life, it appears that 
 Teilo accompanied St. David to his monastery in Glyn 
 Eosyn, the site of the future cathedral. Many miracles are 
 recorded as having occurred there ; and, warned by an angel, 
 Teilo, David, and Padarn proceeded thence to Jerusalem, " to 
 receive the rewards of their warfare." Arrived in the holy 
 city, they were met by the " clergy," who led them into the 
 " Church of the Lord," and then watched attentively their 
 choice of seats — touching which they had been admonished 
 by an angel that he who chose a certain seat should be 
 consecrated bishop. " For there were in the church from 
 ancient times three seats appointed by the elders; two 
 whereof were made of divers metals, and with skilful work- 
 manship ; the third was cedar, and had no outward orna- 
 ment besides what nature gave to it : which being humble, 
 the humble Eliud chose for his seat, giving up the more 
 
 e Although not in the first life, this assertion is found in the 
 ' Liber Landavensis,' p. 60. It is there said that Germanus 
 and Lupus, " super omnes Britannos dextralis partis Britannia?, 
 beatum Dubricium, summum doctorem, a Rege, et ab oiuni 
 parochia eleetum, archiepiscopum consecraverunt." 
 
St. ». 
 
 81 
 
 costly ones to his brethren — which being seen, all who were 
 present fell on their faces before St. Eliud, saying, 'Hail, 
 holy Teilo ! and grant that thy prayers to the Lord may be 
 beneficial to us ; because to-day thou art exalted above thy 
 brethren, for thou hast sat in the seat of Oar Lord Jesus 
 Christ, in which he preached the kingdom of God to our 
 fathers."' All three were then consecrated bishops —Teilo 
 in the room of Peter, David in that of James. Gifts were 
 made to them. Padarn received a staff and a choral cap ; 
 David a wonderful altar ; and Teilo a bell which " ex- 
 ceeded every organ in sweetness of sound " — healed the 
 sick, condemned the perjured, and sounded every hour of 
 its own accord. Teilo then returned to Britain, and under- 
 took the care of Llandaff, whence Dubricius had retired. 
 Shortly afterwards Britain was ravaged by the " yellow 
 pestilence." The people died in great numbers ; and Teilo, 
 leaving Wales with his clergy and " the remains of the 
 nation," went first into Cornwall and thence to Armorica, 
 where he was welcomed by St. Samson, already Archbishop 
 of Dol. After a time he returned to Llandaff, first miracu- 
 lously binding to a rock in the sea an enormous winged 
 dragon (draco volucris) or viper (vipera), which had been 
 ravaging Armorica, and arriving in Cornwall in time to 
 deliver the viaticum to King Gerennius, who had received 
 him on his way, and was tow dying. At Llandaff he 
 remained to the end of his life, " holding supremacy over all 
 the churches of the whole of southern Britain, according to 
 the appointment of the fathers who consecrated him at 
 Jerusalem, as before mentioned." f His successor Oudoceus, 
 and many others, came to him " that they might imitate 
 him in conduct and doctrine." 
 
 f This is, of course, the Llandaff statement. In Khydd- 
 march's ' Life of St. David' the story of the seats is referred to, 
 but is not told at length. But the Patriarch, " divina fultus 
 electione," consecrates St. David to the Archbishopric. (See 
 Introduction to this volume.) 
 
 Q 
 
82 
 
 At the death of Teilo, three churches disputed for the 
 privilege of obtaining his body : Penaly, near Tenby, because 
 his ancestors had been buried there ; Llandeilo Fawr, in Car- 
 marthenshire, because he had lived there in retirement, and 
 because " he there gloriously ended his life ;" s and Llandaff, 
 the place of his see. The dispute could not be settled ; but 
 after a night of fasting and prayer the rival clergy beheld 
 in the morning three bodies precisely alike. Thus the 
 three churches possessed each its treasure. But, adds the 
 Llandaff writer, " it was known to all the people, by the 
 great number of miracles and the accounts of ancient 
 writers, that he was certainly taken to Llandaff."] 
 
 Such are the legends of St. Dubricius and St. Teilo. 
 They throw little or no light on the foundation and early 
 days of Llandaff ; and it would be unsafe to rely on them 
 for any question of chronology. But it is to be remarked 
 that these lives, as well as that of St. David, by Rhydd- 
 march, connect closely, as contemporaries and as fellow- 
 labourers, St. Teilo, St. David, and St. Padarn. In the 
 Triads also they are placed together as " the three blessed 
 visitors of the Isle of Britain." " They were so called 
 because they went as guests to the houses of the noble, 
 the plebeian, the native, and the stranger, without accepting 
 either fee or reward, or victuals or drink ; but what they 
 did was to teach the faith in Christ to every one without 
 pay or thanks. Besides which, they gave to the poor and 
 needy gifts of their gold and silver, their raiment and pro- 
 visions." 11 That Teilo certainly laboured in the country 
 which then was, or at least had been, St. David's diocese, 
 is proved by the number of churches there dedicated in his 
 name, and no doubt founded by him. Llacdeloi, one of 
 
 g This statement is somewhat at variance with the former 
 assertion that Teilo " remained at Llandaff until the end of his 
 life." But it is useless to attempt to reconcile the incon- 
 sistencies of these legends. 
 
 " Rees, ' Welsh Saints,' p. 197. 
 
83 
 
 these, is within a few miles of St. David's. But whether 
 such labours were carried on in conjunction with St. 
 David, or after his death, is entirely uncertain. We may 
 gather from the lives that Teilo presided at LlandafT over a 
 " familia " or monastery of the same character as that 
 established by David at Menyw or Menevia. He may have 
 continued the school of Dubricius ; but his own college, 
 says tradition, afterwards became known as " Bangor Deilo" 
 — " the great * choir ' or college of Teilo." i The shelter 
 and seclusion required for such an establishment, and espe- 
 cially the need of a neighbouring river or of water springs, 
 will explain greatly the unusual positions of the three prin- 
 cipal Welsh cathedrals. That of LlandafT occupies, there 
 can be little doubt, the site of the humble oratory erected 
 by Teilo or Dubricius, first perhaps for himself as a soli- 
 tary, and then enlarged or rebuilt for the use of the many 
 scholars and religious who flocked to him as their teacher. 
 
 Kecords preserved in the ' Book of LlandafT ' (compiled 
 about 1133) furnish the names of numerous bishops between 
 Teilo and Urban — the first appointed under Norman in- 
 fluence. " These records, however, are nothing better or 
 worse than an uncritical compilation by interested and 
 unhistorical compilers, who had no scruple, if a title deed 
 was wanting, in composing one according to their own 
 view of the facts ; and they undoubtedly contain, in their 
 later period, genuine documents ; although even down to 
 the time shortly preceding their compilation, they are 
 proved inaccurate, whenever independent evidence exists to 
 test them. It is impossible to make out a consistent list of 
 successive bishops from them ; and the attempt to do so, 
 or to escape difficulties by imagining a whole band of 
 suffragans to Oudoceus, who disappear altogether after- 
 wards, falls to the ground with the untenable assumption 
 upon which it rests — of the historical accuracy of the 
 
 Rees, p. 243. 
 
84 
 
 f tadmff «a%braL 
 
 charters. But enougli exists, when taken together with 
 other evidence, to establish amply the continued existence 
 of the bishopric from the time of Dubricius." k During 
 this purely Welsh period, there is little to record, though 
 many of the documents in the Book of LlandafT well 
 illustrate the character of the Welsh, both national and 
 ecclesiastical, and the position of the Church amongst them. 
 The Church in North Wales, at the instigation of Elbod, 
 bishop of Bangor, adopted the Boman Easter about the 
 year 768. In 777 it is said to have been adopted in South 
 Wales ; and from about the end of the ninth century there 
 is evidence that the South Welsh dioceses were more or less 
 in close communion with the English Church. This was 
 no doubt a result of the subjection of Wales by English 
 princes. It is asserted that Cyfeiliawg, Bishop of Llandaff, 
 was consecrated by iEthelred, Archbishop of Canterbury 
 (870 — 889); and this may possibly be true, although the 
 statements in the Book of Llandaff that, from about 972, 
 the bishops of Llandaff, and those of St. David's from a.d. 
 995, were consecrated by Archbishops of Canterbury, are 
 hopelessly inconsistent in their dates, and are to be regarded 
 as of very doubtful accuracy. It is also a 'Book of 
 Llandaff ! statement that in 958 or 959 the limits of the 
 diocese of LlandafT, and of the Kingdom of Morgan wg, were 
 settled by Eadgar king of England as suzerain over Owen, 
 king of Deheubarth and over Morgan, king of Morganwg. 
 
 A remarkable relic of the early church of LlandafT is the 
 MS. book of the Gospels, now preserved at Lichfield, and 
 called the 'Book of St. Chad.' This book was given to 
 Llandaff early in the ninth century ; and before the 
 compilation of the ' Book of LlandafT' in 1133, had found 
 its way — in what manner, or by what kind of transaction is 
 entirely unknown— to the Cathedral Church of Mercia. 1 
 
 k Haddan and Stubbs, 'Councils,' i. p. 147. 
 
 1 The book was certainly at Lichfield about the year 1020 — 
 
85 
 
 The MS. itself, dating from the latter part of the eighth 
 century, is of the Hiberno-Saxon school, though it would 
 not be easy to determine whether it was written in Ireland, 
 Wales, or jSTorthumbria. There is a tradition that it was 
 written by St. Gildas. On the margins of many of its 
 pages are entries in Welsh, most of which relate to gifts of 
 land to Llandaff ; but one records that " Gelhi son of 
 Arihtiud bought this Evangelium from Cingal, and gave 
 him a very good horse for it. Gelhi offered it on the altar 
 to God and to Saint Teilo, for the good of his soul." There 
 is also recorded the grant of freedom to a serf, made in the 
 presence of the clergy and laymen of Llandaff. 
 
 Many synodical acts of discipline, exercised by Bishops 
 of Llandaff over South Welsh princes, are mentioned in the 
 * Book of Llandaff.' Thus Brochmael, king of Gwent, and 
 his "family" are excommunicated by Bishop Cyfeiliawg 
 for wrong done to the bishop and his " family." On this 
 occasion, part of the satisfaction enjoined upon Brochmael 
 was the payment to the bishop of a plate of pure gold, the 
 length and breadth of the bishop's face. Tewdwr, king 
 of Brecknock, is excommunicated by Bishop Libiau for 
 stealing the bishop's dinner by force from the Abbey of 
 Llancors. For this insult Libiau exacted the " price of a 
 bishop " — 100 mancuses of gold, sevenfold. Such entries 
 reveal the wild and unsettled state of the country ; but 
 they also indicate that the episcopal power was by no 
 means inconsiderable. Two of the later bishops are re- 
 corded as men of special wisdom and learning. In 1023 
 died " Bledri, bishop of Teilaw, the first scholar in Wales, 
 on which account he was called Bledri the Wise, and so 
 much he loved knowledge that he required every priest to 
 support instruction from literary works in his church, that 
 
 during the episcopate of Leofgar— when, as is recorded by an 
 entry on the margin, "Godwin, son of Earwig, purged himself 
 on these gospels from the suspicion of a deadly crime/' 
 
86 
 
 every one might know his duty to God and man." m And 
 in 1043 died "Joseph, Bishop of Teilaw ; a very wise, 
 learned, and godly man. He instituted good order on the 
 saints' days ; that prayer to God, showing good works, 
 almsgiving, proper remembrance of God and His saints and 
 their praiseworthy works, should alone take place." n 
 
 In the year 1056, according to the 'Book of Llandaff' 
 Herwald, a Welshman notwithstanding his name, was 
 elected by the Welsh princes, consecrated by the Bishop of 
 St. David's to the see of Llandaff, and was confirmed in that 
 see by Kinsi, Archbishop of York, at a council held in 
 London in 1059. The Canterbury Rolls assert that 
 Herwald was consecrated by Lan franc ; but other dates 
 in the same rolls again contradict this statement, although 
 it is possible that Herwald received investiture at the 
 hands of the Conqueror in 1071, after Lanfranc's appoint- 
 ment to Canterbury. For whatever reason, Herwald was 
 placed under an interdict by Archbishop Anselm. He 
 died in 1104 — according to the Annals of Margam, at the 
 age of 100. 
 
 The see remained unfilled for four years and a half after 
 Herwald's death ; and then 
 [a.d. 1107 — 1134] Urban, apparently a Welshman (his name 
 seems to be a Latinization of the Welsh " Gwrgant ;" see 
 post, — Bishop Nicholas ap Gwrgant) was consecrated at 
 Canterbury by Anselm, on the same day (August 11) with 
 four other bishops. The Canterbury Register contains 
 the profession of canonical obedience made by Urban to 
 Anselm and his successors. Urban had not been elected, 
 
 m Brut y Tywysogion, s. a. (Haddan and Stubbs, i. p. 288.) 
 The 'Liber Landavensis' makes 1022 the year of Bledrfs 
 death. 
 
 n Id. id. s. a. (Haddan and Stubbs, p. 292.) The Llandaff 
 date (1046) again differs. 
 
 These were William Giffard (Winchester), Roger (Sarum), 
 William Warelwast (Exeter), and Reinhelm (Hereford). 
 
JSisIxcrp Wixbnn. 
 
 87 
 
 like his predecessor, by the Welsh princes ; and whatever 
 relations may have existed before his time between the 
 Welsh and the English Churches, he was the first bishop 
 imposed by aliens on a Welsh diocese. 
 
 From the beginning of his episcopate Urban was in- 
 volved in a dispute with the Bishops of St. David's and of 
 Hereford, concerning the limits of their respective dioceses. 
 Three times he appealed to the Popes — Calixtus II., 
 Honorius II., and Innocent II. ; and, according to Matthew 
 Paris and Henry of Huntingdon, he died in 1134 on his 
 way to prosecute his cause at Piome. His death brought 
 about a settlement in favour of St. David's. p The 'see, as 
 Urban complains, had been greatly impoverished; and a 
 letter (a.d. 1119) from Calixtus II., to the clergy and nobles 
 of LlandafT — the latter for the most part Norman lords in 
 Glamorgan — charges them to restore its lands to the Church, 
 " pro eo quod per vos bonis suis expoliata et fere in 
 nichilum redacta sit." q 
 
 Urban, as has been already mentioned, translated the 
 relics of St. Dubricius from Bardsey to LlandafT, and began 
 the rebuilding of his Cathedral. In 1120 (before the work 
 was begun) an indulgence was granted by Ralph of Seez, 
 Archbishop of Canterbury, to all who should contribute to 
 the rebuilding ; and in 1125 the Papal Legate, John of 
 Crema, Cardinal of St. Chrysogonus, confirmed and en- 
 larged this indulgence. He had been, he says, himself to 
 LlandafT, and found the church in great poverty. Bishop 
 
 p The See of St. David's gained and retained the district 
 claimed by it ; but the dispute was once or twice renewed, and 
 indeed lingered until the year 1236, and possibly later. In 
 1236 Gregory IX. writes from Viterbo directing the Bishop, 
 Archdeacon, and Dean of Worcester, to determine the boun- 
 daries of the Welsh sees and of Hereford. — Haddan and Stubbs, 
 i. p. 464. 
 
 q ' Liber Landavensis/ p. 89. 
 
88 
 
 Urban was rebuilding the Cathedral; but could not com- 
 plete it without help/ The completion of Urban's church 
 has nowhere been recorded. 
 
 Of many succeeding bishops little is known. The see 
 was vacant after Urban's death until 
 
 [a.d. 1140 — 1147] Uchtryd was consecrated by Archbishop 
 Theobald of Canterbury. Several letters of Gilbert Foliot, 
 afterwards Bishop successively of Hereford and London, 
 but Abbot of Gloucester from 1139 to 1148 (he was the 
 well-known opponent of Becket), are written to Uchtryd. 
 Uchtryd was a married man, with a family (one of his 
 daughters married Jorwerth ap Owen, Lord of Caerleon), 
 and the c Brat y Tywysogion ' mentions him as a man of 
 learning and piety. " He regulated the Sundays, holidays, 
 and saints' days, and caused them to be observed with 
 religious services where that had not been done willingly 
 and customarily." s 
 
 [a.d. 1148 — 1183.] Nicholas ap Gwrgant succeeded. The 
 Brut calls Gwrgant a bishop (escob), and there can be 
 little doubt that we are to recognise in "Gwrgant" the 
 Bishop Urban who rebuilt the Cathedral of Llandaff. 
 Bishop Nicholas restored the "sanctuary of the churches 
 which had been neglected since the time of Jestin, son of 
 Gwrgan . . . so that great part of the see of Teilo acquired 
 the sanctuary of the churches, which occasioned greater 
 quietness in Morganwg than in any other part of Wales." 
 Bishop Nicholas was one of the seven bishops suspended 
 
 r "Ad Landavensem Ecclesiam ex debito nostrae legationis 
 accedentes, et paupertate oppressam et bonis suis ac posses- 
 sionibus expoliatam mveninius. Veruntamen venerabilis f rater 
 noster Urbanus, ejusdem loci Episcopus, ecclesiam ipsam reedi- 
 ficare a fundamentis incepit ; quod sine elemosynaruui vestrarurn 
 auxiliis non poterit consumare." — Brief of John of Crema, 
 Lib. Landav., pp. 46, 47. 
 
 3 Brut y Tywysogion. Haddan and Stubbs, i. p. 352. 
 
(September 16, 1170) by Pope Alexander III. for joining 
 in the coronation of Henry II.'s son, 44 contra jura Can- 
 tuariensia." 
 
 'Ike see remained vacant nntil filled by 
 
 [a.d. 1186 — 1191. J William Saltmarsh. He had been 
 Prior of Bristol. His predecessors were all certainly Welsh- 
 men, and he is the first of alien race who filled the see. It 
 was during his episcopate that (July, 1187) Baldwin, Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, visited Wales as Legate ; and (March, 
 April, 1188), accompanied by the famous Giraldus Cam- 
 brensis (then the Archbishop's chaplain and Archdeacon 
 of Brecknock), preached the crusade throughout the 
 country. In each of the cathedral churches (and of course 
 at LlandafT) the archbishop celebrated mass, 44 tanquam 
 investiture cujusdam signum." 4 
 
 [a.d. 1193 — 1218.] Henry, Prior of Abergavenny, suc- 
 ceeded, after another vacancy. This bishop organized the 
 Chapter of LlandafT. He appointed fourteen prebends, 
 eight of which were assigned to priest vicars, four to 
 deacons, and two to subdeacons. Before his time, ac- 
 cording to Godwin, the lands of the see had been held in 
 common, and had not been apportioned between the bishop 
 and his clerks. u Bishop) Henry assisted at the coronation 
 of King John in 1199. 
 
 * " De nullo vero Cantuariensi antistite legitur, vel post 
 subjectionem istam 99 (of the Welsh Church to the English) 
 " vel ante, Cambriae fines intrasse, praeter Baldwinum solum 
 . . . qui legationis hujus occasione, et salutifersB crucis obse- 
 quio, terram tarn hyspidam, tarn inaccessibilem et remotam, 
 laudabili devotione circumivit, et in singulis Cathedralibus 
 ecclesiis tanquam investitura) cujusdam signum missam cele- 
 bravit.'' — Gir. Cambrens., Itin. Cambria, ii. 1. 
 
 u u Iste Henricus de Bergaueuy constituit xiiii 9 prebendas 
 in sancta Cathed. Landauensi et tot adhuc deberent esse : 
 quarum xiiii ra prebendarum secundum statuta nostra octo de- 
 fungi debent per vicarios sacerdotes, quatuor vero per vicarios 
 
90 
 
 [a.d. 1219 — 1230.] William, Prior of Goldclive, was in- 
 troduced by Papal provision — that is, by the authority of 
 Pandulph, the legate. The Canons of Llandaff had prayed 
 the King (Henry III., then a boy) and the Legate for 
 liberty to elect their own bishop; but their prayer was 
 disregarded. 
 
 [a.d. 1230 — 1240.] Elias of Radnor, Treasurer of Hereford. 
 After his death, William of Christ Church was elected 
 bishop ; but there is no record of his consecration, and he 
 resigned some time before 1244, in which year the see was 
 declared vacant a per resignationem." 
 
 [a.d. 1245 — 1253.] William of Burgh was then appointed. 
 Wales and the Welsh Church were at this time in a miserable 
 condition. The country itself, oppressed by foreign lords, 
 was, according to Matthew Paris, losing its cultivation, its 
 commerce and even its sheep — " et etiam virorum eccle- 
 siasticorum cythara conversa est in luctum et lamenta." In 
 1247 the Bishop of St. David's died " quasi prse dolore con- 
 tabescens." In the same year the Bishops of St. Asaph and 
 of Bangor, whose dioceses had been ravaged by fire and 
 sword, were obliged to beg for help — " mendicare ut de 
 alieno viverent cogebantur " — and Bishop William of Llan- 
 daff " ccecitate percutitur." He was blind for seven years 
 before his death.* 
 
 [a.d. 1254 — 1256.] John de la Ware. He had been Abbot 
 of Margam. 
 
 [a.d. 1257 — 1266.] William of Radnor was elected by the 
 Chapter in defiance of the Crown. Wales was in suc- 
 cessful revolt at this time. Henry III. was to meet his 
 army at Chester August 11, 1257, and a second army was 
 
 diaconos, et alie due prebende defungi debent per vicarios sub- 
 diaconos." — Memorandum of the fifteenth century at the end of 
 the Liber Landavensis ; the original MS. now at Owston, near 
 Doncaster. Haddan and Stubbs, i. p. 393. 
 x Matt. Paris, p. 739. 
 
91 
 
 to invade South Wales from Bristol. The certificate of 
 election, dated July 28, 1256, says that the Chapter had 
 elected William of Eadnor their treasurer, and trusts that 
 the king would not be displeased " quod preces vestras ad 
 praesens exaudire nequivimus." William had been known 
 to the Chapter from his childhood, and the Church of 
 Llandaff was always desirous of electing clerks " de gremio 
 suo (dummodo digni extiterint) " y It seems to have been 
 thought good policy at such a time to accept the election. 
 William was consecrated in St. Paul's, London, by Arch- 
 bishop Boniface. 
 
 In 1260 an excommunication and interdict were issued 
 against Llewelyn, and letters to this effect were sent to 
 the four Welsh bishops. 
 [a.d. 1266 — 1287.] William de Beuce, Canon of Llandaff. 
 — (The name is variously spelt " de Breuse," " de Breos," 
 " De Breos," and " Bruys." In the legend round the mitre 
 of the effigy, in the Lady Chapel, it is "Brews.") — 
 Llewelyn and his brother David, the last princes who held 
 sovereign power in Wales, were slain during the episcopate 
 of William de Bruce. Little is recorded concerning him ; 
 but it is probable, as has been said (Part I., § xvin.), that 
 the beautiful Lady Chapel in Llandaff Cathedral was built 
 in his time. He was buried in that chapel, and his effigy 
 still remains there. 
 
 After the death of William de Bruce, Philip de Staunton 
 was elected to the see of Llandaff. He was Precentor 
 of Wells, and after his election he journeyed to Bordeaux, 
 taking to Edward I., who was then in Gascony, the formal 
 signification of the choice made by the Chapter of Llandaff. 
 The king approved; but Philip was never consecrated, 
 and it is evident from a letter of the king to Edmund, 
 Earl of Cornwall, that the confirmation of his election was 
 
 y The Certificate of Election is printed at length in Haddan 
 and Stubbs, ' Councils/ i. p. 484. 
 
92 
 
 hindered by the Clares, the great lords of Glamorgan. 
 In 1290, Edward granted a life interest to Gilbert de Clare, 
 Earl of Gloucester and Hertford, in the temporalities of 
 Llandaff, " sede vacante." The see remained vacant until 
 1295, in which year (before May) Philip de Staunton died. 
 Apparently before his death, in October, 1294, John of 
 Monmouth was appointed to Llandaff by Papal provision. 
 He was not consecrated until 
 
 [a.d. 1296 (Feb. 10)— 1323.] John of Monmouth had been 
 a canon of Lincoln. He procured for the see and attached 
 to it the rectory of Newland, in the Forest of Dean. In 
 Godwin's time the tomb of this bishop, much mutilated, 
 remained in the Lady Chapel. His successor was 
 
 [a.d. 1323 — 1347.] John of Egglescliff, a Dominican, who 
 had been a titular bishop of Bethlehem, and afterwards of 
 Connor, in Ireland. He was buried in the Church of the 
 Dominicans, at Cardiff. 
 
 [a.d. 1347 — 1361.] John Pascal, a Carthusian, of Ipswich, 
 a member of a good Suffolk family. He had been a suffra- 
 gan of Bateman, Bishop of Norwich, and was a preacher of 
 great eloquence. 
 
 [a.d. 1361 — 1382.] Koger Cradock was translated from 
 Waterford. He was a Franciscan. 
 
 [a.d. 1383 — trans, to Chichester 1385.] Thomas Eushook, 
 a Dominican, and confessor to Kichard II. 
 
 [a.d. 1386 — trans, to Piochester 1389.] William Bottle- 
 sham, titular Bishop of Pavada or Bethlehem. 
 
 [a.d. 1389 — 1393.] Edmund Bromfield succeeded. He had 
 been a Benedictine of Bury St. Edmunds, and became so 
 famous for his learning as to provoke the jealousy of his 
 fellow monks. They succeeded in getting rid of him by 
 obtaining his appointment at Kome as proctor for the 
 Benedictine Order. On the death of the Abbot of Bury 
 the Pope named Bromfield in his stead; but when he 
 returned to England as Abbot he was seized and impri- 
 
93 
 
 soned as having violated the famous " Statute of Provisors " 
 (25th Ed. III.). After an imprisonment of nearly ten 
 years he was nominated to the see of Llandaff, by the 
 Pope's desire, but with the consent of the King. His tomb 
 remains in the cathedral (Part I., § xx.). 
 
 [a.d. 1393 — trans, to Worcester 1395. J Tideman of Winch- 
 comb, Abbot of the Cistercian house of Beaulieu. 
 
 [a.d. 1395 — 1396.] Andrew Barrett. 
 
 [a.d. 1396 — trans, to Lichfield 1398.] John Btjrgill, a Do- 
 minican. 
 
 [a.d. 1398 — trans, to Worcester 1407.] Thomas Peverell, 
 
 translated to Llandaff from Ossory. 
 [a.d. 1408—1423.] John de la Zouch, a Franciscan. 
 [a.d. 1425 — 1440.] John Wells, also a Franciscan. 
 [a.d. 1441 — 1458. ] Nicholas Ashby, Prior of Westminster. 
 [a.d. 1458 — 1476.] John Hunden, a Franciscan, Prior of 
 
 King's Langley. This bishop voluntarily resigned his see, 
 
 and is said to have been " pardoned ;" but for what offence 
 
 is not evident. 
 
 [a.d. 1476 — 1478.] John Smith, also possibly a Franciscan, 
 but this is not certain. He was, however, buried in the 
 Church of the Franciscans in London. 
 
 [a.d. 1478—1496.] John Marshall, Fellow of Merton Col- 
 lege, Oxford, and Canon of Windsor. Bishop Marshall's 
 work in his cathedral has been mentioned, Part I., § xx. 
 
 [a.d. 1496 — 1499.] John Ingleby, a Carthusian, and Prior 
 of Shene. 
 
 [a.d. 1500 — 1516.] Miles Salley, Abbot successively of 
 Abingdon and of Eynsham. He is said to have built much 
 ut Mathern, near Chepstow, which for a considerable time 
 had been the favourite palace of the Bishops of Llandaff. 
 Bishop Marshall rebuilt the church tower there; and 
 Godwin asserts that in his time the shield of Bishop de la 
 Zouch remained on some parts of the palace. This still 
 belongs to the see, and is occupied as a farmhouse. 
 
94 
 
 [a.d. 1517 — 1537.] George de Athequa, a Spanish Do- 
 minican, who had come to England in 1501, with the 
 Princess Catherine of Arragon, and was her chaplain. He 
 continued in the household of the Queen until her death 
 at Kimbolton, in 1536. In February, 1537, he resigned 
 the bishopric of LlandafT ; and on the 25th of the same 
 month his successor was appointed. 
 
 [a.d. 1537 — trans, to York 1545.] Robert Holgate, Pro- 
 vincial Master of the Gilbertines of Sempringham, and 
 Prior of Watton — one of the few houses of that order. He 
 held his priorate with the bishopric of LlandafT until March, 
 1540, when he resigned it into the king's hands— a result 
 of the suppression of the larger monasteries (with which 
 Watton must have been allowed to rank) in 1538. Holgate 
 was in great favour at Court, and after his translation to 
 York was made President of the Council of the North. 
 He was deprived after the accession of Mary (1554), was 
 thrown into the Tower, released in the following year, and 
 died in 1556. Archbishop Holgate was married. 
 
 [a.d. 1545— 1563.] Antony Kitchin. He was one of three 
 bishops (the others were Paul Bush, Bishop of Bristol, and 
 John Wakeman, Bishop of Gloucester), at whose consecra- 
 tion Thomas Thirlby, the solitary Bishop of Westminster, 
 assisted. 2 Kitchin, who was also called Dunstan, had 
 
 T After the dissolution of the greater monasteries the Abbot 
 of Westminster became a dean, and the monks were succeeded 
 by twelve prebendaries. A Bishopric of Westminster was also 
 created. Thomas Thirlby was consecrated to the see (Dec. 
 17, 1540) ; and the diocese included the whole of Middlesex, 
 except Fulham. But this arrangement did not last. After two 
 years the diocese was merged in that of London ; and in 1550 
 Thirlby was translated to Norwich. In the interim he retained 
 his title as Bishop of Westminster ; as appears from the record of 
 Antony Kitchin' s consecration, which took place in Westminster 
 Abbey. The two other bishops were consecrated before the 
 Diocese of Westminster had been merged in that of London. 
 
95 
 
 been a monk of Westminster, and Prior of Gloucester Hall 
 (established for Benedictine students), at Oxford.. After- 
 wards he became Abbot of Eynsham ; and, some time after 
 the Dissolution, was nominated to the see of Llandaff. He 
 is called by Godwin " fundi nostri calamitas," because he 
 alienated the greater part of the manors belonging to the 
 see, and disposed of others on long leases. Alone, of all 
 the bishops, although in Godwin's words, "homo Ponti- 
 ficise doctrinse addictissimus," he took the oath concerning 
 the Royal Supremacy on the accession of Elizabeth, and so 
 retained his see. Llandaff never recovered the spoliation 
 (probably to a great extent, as at Exeter and elsewhere, 
 the enforced spoliation) of this bishop ; but it never had 
 ranked among the richest sees, as is asserted by Hallam. a 
 
 Enderbie (' Cambria Triumphans,' II., bk. ii.), says that 
 Bishop Kitchin . . . " enduring all the tempestuous changes 
 
 a " Almost every bishopric was spoiled by their " (the cour- 
 tiers'; "ravenous power in this reign, either through mere 
 alienations, or long leases, or unequal exchanges. Exeter and 
 Llandaff, from being among the richest sees, fell into the class 
 of the poorest. Lichfield lost the chief part of its lands to 
 form an estate for Lord Paget." —Const. Hist, of England, 
 i. p. 94 (ed. 1855). Exeter, no doubt, had been one of the 
 wealthiest of English sees. It is true that Godwin (de Prse- 
 sulibus An ghee, p. 593, ed. 1743) asserts that if Llandaff had 
 possessed in his day (1601 — 1617) even a tenth part of the 
 lands which " the bounty of good men " had anciently given to 
 it, the see would have been the most wealthy in Christendom, 
 " cum jam vix habeat unde se sartam tectamque possit tueri." 
 But the ' Valor Ecclesiasticus 1 sufficiently proves that this 
 statement is greatly exaggerated ; and that, at any rate, Llan- 
 daff had become a comparatively poor see long before the 
 sixteenth century. Godwin is apparently referring to certain 
 doubtful gifts of territory recorded in the ' Liber Landavensis,' 
 — to the spoliations of which Bishop Urban complained (see 
 ante) — and perhaps to the claim set up against the dioceses 
 of St. David's and Hereford. 
 
96 
 
 .... continued till the fifth year of Queen Elizabeth, and 
 then died (and high time), having first so impoverished 
 the bishoprick by unreasonable demises of whatever was 
 demisable, that there was no great cause why he should 
 live any longer. He is called Kitchen, though he might 
 rather have been called Schullian ; yet, indeed, he made 
 his church a kitchen ; and, like a schullian, swept all away, 
 leaving poor daff without lan or land" Browne Willis 
 (p. 24) asserts that he " cannot find that Kitchin alienated 
 anything in perpetuity, unless it might be LlandafT Place 
 in the Strand." 
 
 [a.d. 1566 — 1574.] Hugh Jones succeeded; the first Welsh- 
 man who had filled the see for many centuries. 
 
 [a.d. 1575 — 1590.] William Blethin, Archdeacon of Breck- 
 nock, was also a Welshman. His address to the Chapter 
 in 1575 — the year of his accession, in which he laments 
 the ruinous condition of the Cathedral, and the scantiness 
 of its revenues, and proposes to diminish the number of 
 persons on the foundation — has been mentioned in Part L, 
 § ii. It has been printed in the 4 Archseologia.' 
 
 [a.d. 1591 — trans, to Exeter 1595.] Gervase Babington. 
 He had been treasurer of Llandaff. From Exeter he passed 
 in 1597 to Worcester, and died in 1610. It is to him that 
 the saying is attributed (quoted above) that " his diocese 
 ought to be called the Diocese of Aff, because the land had 
 been taken away from it." 
 
 [a.d. 1595 — trans, to St. Asaph 1601.] William Moegan ; 
 born at Guibernant, in Carnarvonshire, and educated at 
 St. John's College, Cambridge. He was the first translator 
 of the Bible into Welsh, a labour which was rewarded by 
 his elevation to the see of Llandaff. Bishop Morgan did 
 something to improve the condition of both the fabric and 
 the revenues of the Cathedral ; and his labours were con- 
 tinued by his successor b — 
 
 b " Cum de Ecclesia reficienda Cathediali, jam sevo fatiscente 
 
97 
 
 [a.d. 1601 — trans, to Hereford 1617.] Francis Godwin 
 author of the well-known 4 Catalogue of English Bishops. 
 Francis Godwin was the son of Thomas Godwin, Bishop 
 of Bath and Wells (1584 — 1590), who, by marrying a 
 third time, encountered the grave displeasure of Queen 
 Elizabeth. Francis was born in 1561, and was educated 
 at Christ Church, Oxford. He became at an early age 
 Rector of Sampford Orcas, in Somersetshire, Prebendary 
 and Canon of Wells, Vicar of Weston Zoyland, and, in 
 1587, Sub-Dean of Exeter. Camden was his personal friend, 
 and in 1590 he accompanied him on a journey into Wales. 
 In 1595 Godwin resigned Weston for Bishop's Lydiard; 
 and in 1601 he published, in English, 4 A Catalogue of the 
 Bishops of England, since the first planting of the Christian 
 religion in this island ; together with a brief history of 
 their lives and memorable actions, so near as can be 
 gathered of Antiquity.' Lord Buck hurst, to whom Godwin 
 was then chaplain, recommended him to the notice of the 
 Queen, by whom, in the same year, he was raised to the 
 see of Llandaff. A second edition of his 4 Catalogue ' was 
 published in 1615 ; and in 1616 he published the Latin 
 translation, 4 De Praesulibus Angliae Commentarius,' the 
 form in which the book is best known. It was dedicated 
 to James I. ; and in the following year, 1617, Godwin was 
 translated from Llandaff to Hereford. 
 
 Other works of Bishop Godwin are * Nuncius Inani- 
 matus Utopia?,' 1629, one of the earliest suggestions for 
 carrying on a correspondence by signals ; and 4 Annals 
 of the reigns of Henry VIII., Edward VI., and Queen 
 Mary,' of which the third edition was published in 1630. 
 The best edition of the 4 De Prasulibus Anglias' is that 
 published in 1743 by Dr. Richardson, Master of Em- 
 
 et ruin am minitante totus cogitaret, ad scdem Asaph ensern 
 translatus . . . hunc laborem mihi reliquit."— Godwin, De 
 Prsesul. Anglix, p. 613. 
 
 U 
 
98 
 
 f laukff «*%bral. 
 
 manuel College, Cambridge, and Canon of Lincoln, who 
 continued the Catalogue to his own time, and added 
 numerous notes and corrections. 
 
 Bishop Godwin died in 1633. His wife was the daughter 
 of John Wolton, Bishop of Exeter (1579—1594). He 
 did much for Llandaff ; more to the benefit of the Cathe- 
 dral, as he asserts, than to that of his heirs. 6 Browne 
 Willis asserts that in one respect " he set an ill-example — 
 
 . giving everything to his sons-in-law." 
 
 [a.d. 1618 — trans, to Chichester 1619.] George Carleton, 
 one of the English divines sent by James I. to attend the 
 Synod of Dort in 1618-19. 
 
 [a.d. 1619 — trans, to St. David's, 1627.] Theophilus Field. 
 From St. David's he passed to Hereford in 1635, and died 
 in 1636. 
 
 [a.d. 1627 — 1640.] William Murray was translated to 
 Llandaff from Kilfenora. He had been Provost of Eton. 
 He began a suit to recover the castle and manor of Llan- 
 daff, which had been demised by Bishop Kitchin for 99 
 years ; and would have succeeded, had he lived. Then 
 followed the rebellion. 
 
 [a.d. 1640 — 1645.] Morgan Owen ; appointed through the 
 interest of Archbishop Laud, who has at least the merit 
 of selecting a Welshman. After his death the see re- 
 mained vacant until the Restoration. It has been said that 
 Bishop Morgan dropped down dead on hearing of the 
 execution of Laud (' Archaaologia Cambrensis,' p. 71). 
 
 [a.d. 1660 — 1667.] Hugh Lloyd, Archdeacon of St. David's. 
 
 [a.d. 1607 — 1675.] Francis Davies, Archdeacon of Llandaff. 
 
 [a.d. .1675 — trans, to Peterborough 1679.] William Lloyd. 
 
 c " Et labores raeos, per Dei bonitatem, tam Ecclesia? Cathe- 
 drali, quam sedi Episcopali, nonnihil profuisse, successoribus 
 ut spero constabit, utcunque hseredes conquerantur rem pro* 
 priam familiarein mini inde non mediocriter afflictam." — De 
 PrxsuL, p. 613 (ed. 1743). 
 
99 
 
 From Peterborough, Bishop Lloyd passed in 1685 to Nor- 
 wich. In 1691 he was deposed as a Nonjuror, and lived 
 at Hammersmith until his death in 1710. He was the 
 longest lived of the Nonjuring bishops. 
 [a.d. 1679—1706.] William Beaw. He had been Fellow 
 of New College, Oxford; and after his ejection, in 1648, 
 went to Sweden, and there served in arms. He returned 
 to England after the Restoration, recovered his Fellowship, 
 and died Bishop of Llandaff, at the age of 90. 
 
 It was in the time of this bishop that the choir service 
 was laid aride. 
 
 In the Lambeth Library (MS. nccccix. 49) is preserved 
 a very curious letter from Bishop Beaw to Archbishop 
 Tenison. With respect to the preferment in his gift, he 
 says that if Dr. Jones had been made Bishop of Llandaff, 
 instead of St. Asaph, he would have had no opportunity of 
 committing simony. " However simoniacal his disposition 
 had been, he would never have had an occasion given him 
 to make it appear ; for 1 have but three livings in my 
 gift, whereof two are so lean and ill-favoured, that should 
 they be sent to the fair, no chapman would be found to 
 bid for them ; and I have no Deanery to give or sell ; and 
 as for Prebends, such as usually fall in my gift, they are 
 such as he that should give five pounds for any one of 
 them, would bid too much by three." He adds that the 
 gross value of his bishopric was 230Z. per annum ; and, 
 after the deductions made, "1. found my little bishoprick's 
 revenues wholly swallowed up, nothing more appearing 
 of them than would defray the charges of the quantity of 
 vinegar, pepper, salt, and fire spent in my house." When, 
 he says, he applied for the bishopric of St. Asaph, " it had 
 been buzzed into the Queen's (i. e. Queen Maiy's) ears, 
 and your predecessor had swallowed it, that a Welsh 
 bishop ought to be a Welshman ; which was in truth the 
 casting of a reproach upon all our late Kings and Primates 
 
 H 2 
 
100 
 
 flmiiraff «a%hal. 
 
 who had indifferently imposed Englishmen for bishops 
 upon the Welsh people : and it was a groundless surmise, 
 there not being a market town in all Wales wherein they 
 speak not all English, and a sermon in Welsh with the 
 most would not be understood.") 
 
 [a.d. 1706 — 1724.] John Tyler, Dean of Hereford. 
 
 [a. i). 1725 — trans, to Peterborough 1729.] Robert Cla- 
 vering, Regius Professor of Hebrew in the University of 
 Oxford, and Canon of Christ Church. 
 
 [a.d. 1729 — 1738.] John Harris. With the bishopric he 
 held the Deanery of Hereford, and afterwards that of Wells. 
 He was buried in Wells Cathedral. Of him Cole the 
 antiquary (MSS. in Brit. Mus. vol. xxviii.) says, " I lately 
 heard Dr. Pettingal, my neighbour at Stoke Hamon, 
 call this bishop one of the weakest men he ever knew 
 raised to the episcopal order: and said that as this bishop 
 had been abroad, where he had seen the foreign bishops 
 have their cassocks done up before with an infinite number 
 of little buttons, contrary to the practice of the English 
 clergy who have none, but have their cassock double 
 before, and so (to) lap over on either side, he introduced 
 the fashion here. But it went no further. This is a 
 trifle ; but it characterizes, perhaps, more than weightier 
 matters. " 
 
 [a.d. 1739 — trans, to Chichester 1740.] Matthias Mawson : 
 Master of Corpus Christi College, Cambridge. From Chi- 
 chester he passed to Ely in 1754, and died in 1770. 
 
 [a.d. 1740 — trans, to Salisbury 1749.] John Gilbert ; Dean 
 of Exeter, and Canon of Christ Church. From Salisbury 
 Bishop Gilbert, in 1757, was translated to York. He died in 
 1761. 
 
 Fa.d. 1749 — 1755.] Edward Cressett. 
 
 [a.d. 1755 — trans, to St. Asaph 17G1.] PacHARD Newcome. 
 He was made bishop . . . " it lying very commodious for his 
 living at Whitchurch (Shropshire) where he had built a 
 
§i$Ijops ^arrhtgtoit mtir W&uUan. 101 
 
 very neat and elegant parsonage-house." — Coles MS. 
 
 Brit. Mus., vol. xxviii. p. 14 (from notes found in Browne 
 
 Willis's own copy of his i Llandaff '). 
 [a.d. 1761 — trans, to Bangor 1769.] John Ewer, 
 [a.d. 1769 — trans, to St. Asaph in the same year.] Jonathan 
 
 Shipley. 
 
 [a.d. 1769 — trans, to Salisbury 1782.] Shute Barringtos. 
 He was the youngest son of John, first Viscount Barrington. 
 From Salisbury he passed to Durham in 1791, and died in 
 1826, aged 92. With the exception of the episcopate of 
 Bishop Wilson of Sodor and Man, that of Bishop Bar- 
 rington is the longest on record in the English Church. It 
 extended over fifty-six years. That of Bishop Wilson was 
 fifty-seven years in length. A beautiful monument by 
 Chantrey, with a kneeling figure of Bishop Barrington, is 
 placed in Durham Cathedral. It is not generally known 
 that Bishop Barrington left by will 100/. per annum to 
 the Bishops of Llandaff and of Salisbury, and 150Z. to the 
 Bishop of Durham, for the benefit of the families of their 
 poor clergy. 
 
 [a.d. 1782 — 1816.] Richard W'atson, — the son of a West- 
 morland " statesman," was born at Heversham in that 
 county in 1737. He was educated at Cambridge, where he 
 afterwards became Regius Professor of Divinity. He lived 
 for some time at Cambridge after he was raised to the see 
 of Llandaff ; and then made his permanent abode at 
 Calgarth Park, on the bank of Windermere; During his 
 episcopate of thirty-four years he visited his diocese but 
 rarel} 7 . When the see of St. Asaph became vacant in 
 1806, Bishop Watson exerted himself to procure his 
 translation thither ; and expressed much disappointment 
 at being " neglected." He did nothing for the diocese of 
 Llandaff ; but in Westmorland he became a great agri- 
 culturist and planter. He was the first to introduce the 
 larch in that district, — a service for which Wordsworth, who 
 
102 atlanbaff «a%i>ral. 
 
 greatly disliked the character of the tree (only beautiful 
 for a short time in spring), hardly thanked him. He 
 thought differently himself. " The county of Westmor- 
 land," he writes in a letter to a friend " will long have 
 cause to thank the Bishop of Llandafif " (himself) " for the 
 example he has set, not of chaffering with peasants about 
 the price of bullocks, but of making bad land good, and of 
 introducing new modes of husbandry, and of planting 
 mountains." 
 
 Out of Westmorland, Bishop Watson is now best re- 
 membered by his 4 Apology for Christianity/ published in 
 1776, as an answer to Gibbon's " sneers," — " only a 
 month's work in the long vacation " he writes ; — and by 
 his 4 Apology for the Bible' — a reply to the Infidel Paine, 
 published in 1796. By both works he did good service. 
 In 1785 he published a 6 Collection of Theological Tracts ' 
 in six volumes, which must have been useful in its day. 
 A Memoir and ' Recollections ' of Bishop Watson, written 
 by himself, was published by his son in 1817. 
 
 [a.d. 1816 — trans, to Peterborough 1819.] Herbert Marsh ; 
 Lady Margaret's Professor of Divinity at Cambridge. 
 
 [a.d. 1819 — trans, to Durham 1826.] William Van Mildert. 
 He was the last Count Palatine of Durham ; and was the 
 founder of the University there. 
 
 [a.d. 1826 ; trans, to Winchester 1827.] Charles Richard 
 Sumner. 
 
 [a.d. 1828 — 1849.] Edward Copleston ; son of John Brad- 
 ford Copleston, rector of Offwell, Devon, and a member of 
 a very ancient Devonshire family, was born in 1776. At 
 Oxford he was a scholar of Corpus, and afterwards Fellow 
 of Oriel ; Vicar of St. Mary's ; Professor of Poetry ; and in 
 1814 he became Provost of his College. Bishop Copleston 
 was one of that most remarkable company which gave so 
 great a reputation to the Common room of Oriel, and which 
 included Davison, Whately (Archbishop of Dublin), John 
 
gisjjop (CopUstmr, 103 
 
 Keble, Dr. Hawkins the present Provost, and, somewhat 
 later, John Henry Newman. In 1826 he was made Dean 
 of Chester ; but vacated that Deanery on becoming Bishop 
 of Llandaff and Dean of St. Paul's, London ; which posi- 
 tions had been held together by Bishop Sumner, and were 
 bestowed together on his successor. 
 
 There had been no episcopal residence at Llandaff from 
 the time of Bishop Kitchin. Succeeding bishops had for 
 the most part lived at Mathern ; but the palace there had 
 for some time fallen into ruin. Bishops Watson and 
 Marsh never lived in the diocese. Bishop Van Mildert 
 rented a house near Abergavenny ; and Bishop Copleston, 
 during the earlier part of his episcopate, resided in a house 
 rented by him near Llansantfraed, but afterwards pur- 
 chased Hard wick House, near Chepstow, where he died. 
 The net income of the see was at this time 9241. ; and 
 that available for the entire Chapter was 6901. There 
 had been no Dean since the time of Esni (Part I. § iv., 
 note), until 1840, when the office was revived by the Act. 
 The Bishop was the head of the Chapter. When Bishop 
 Copleston first entered on his duties there were few glebe 
 houses throughout the diocese; and one service only on 
 Sundays was very generally the custom. The bishop set 
 himself actively to improve this condition of things; and 
 he may be said to have laid the foundations of the great 
 change which has been fully carried out during the epis- 
 copate of his successor, — 
 [a.d. 1849.] Alfred Ollivaxt. 
 
 The diocese of Llandaff embraces the whole of Monmouth- 
 shire, together with that part of Glamorganshire which lies 
 east of the Neath River. The western portion of the latter 
 county, including Swansea and the district of Gower, 
 remains annexed to the diocese of St. David's notwith- 
 
104 Probaff SstytbnL 
 
 standing a recommendation of the Ecclesiastical Commis- 
 sioners that it should be added to Llandaff. 
 
 Few parts of Great Britain have changed more remark- 
 ably than the diocese of Llandaff since the beginning of 
 the present century. The population of the whole diocese, 
 in 1801, was 95,549. In 1841 it had become 259,852, 
 and has since that time increased in proportion. The 
 chain of high moorland and mountain which extends 
 through the centre of the diocese has become the scene of 
 vast ironworks. The collieries are proportionally extensive 
 and populous ; and the town of Cardiff, which in 1801 had 
 a population of 1018, is now one of the most important 
 exporting stations in the country, with vast docks, and 
 an enormous population. It is under these changed cir- 
 cumstances that Llandaff Cathedral has been restored ; and 
 that, with a Bishop and Dean resident, with an active 
 Chapter, and with excellent services, it now forms a fitting 
 centre for the thickly peopled diocese ; in which, as 
 elsewhere in Wales, the Church has arisen to new and 
 vigorous life. 
 
SAINT DAYID'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PORCH m BISHOP'S PALACE 
 
s 
 
REFERENCES. 
 
 A. Nave. 
 
 B. Choir. 
 
 C. Presbytery. 
 
 D. D. Transepts. 
 
 E. St. Thomas's Chapel. 
 
 F. Chapel of South Transept. 
 
 G. G. Choir Aisles. 
 
 H. H. Aisles of Eastern Chapels. 
 
 I. Bishop Vaughan's Chapel. 
 K. Vestibule to Lady Chapel. 
 L. 7,a*/ Chapel. 
 M. Sowta Porcfc. 
 N. N. N. Modem Buttresses. 
 0. Cloister Quadrangle. 
 
 1. Serine o/S*. David 
 
 2. Shrine of St. Caradoc. 
 
 3. Tomb o/ Edmund Tudor, 
 
 Earl of Richmond. 
 
 4. Effigy of Bishop Anselm. 
 
 5. o/ unknown Bishop. 
 
 6. Effigy of a Knight. 
 1. Effigy of a Priest. 
 
 8. Effigy of a Knight. 
 
 9. of a Priest. 
 
 10. Tomo Stab of Silvester. 
 
 11. ^#^</ of a Priest. 
 
 12. Monument of a Priest. 
 
 13. Monument of Bishop Goiter. 
 
 14. Monument of a Priest. 
 
 15. Monument of a Priest. 
 
 16. Monument of Bishop Morgan. 
 11. Recess containing pierced Cross. 
 
 18. Monument of Bishop Martyn. 
 
 19. Monument of Bishop Beck. 
 
 20. Tomb o/ Archdeacon Hiot. 
 
 21. Effigy of a Knight. 
 
 22. #$#2/ o/a Priest. 
 
 23. Effigy of a Knight. 
 
 PLAN OF ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL 
 
ST. DAYID'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PAET I. 
 
 fistorg mxis fetalis-* 
 
 HP HE remarkable district in which St. David's Cathe- 
 dral stands, so far as it is connected with th e 
 history of the See and of the first ecclesiastical establish- 
 ment here, will more fitly be described in Part II. It is 
 sufficient to observe here that, although the Cathedrals 
 of Llandaff and of Bangor are placed on low ground, 
 
 * In 1716 Browne Willis published his 1 Survey of the Cathe- 
 dral Church of St. David's ' ; a small volume which, like his 
 4 Surveys ' of the other Welsh Cathedrals, contains much that 
 is of great value. It has now become scarce, little however 
 was known of St. David's, owing to the remoteness and inac- 
 cessibility of the place, until, in 1856, the Kev. William Basil 
 Jones (now Archdeacon of York) and Mr. Edward Augustus 
 Freeman published their ' History and Antiquities of St. 
 David's,' a quarto volume of 400 pages, with numerous illus- 
 trations. This work is so full and so accurate ; it covers the 
 ground so completely, and enters so minutely into every detail, 
 whether of architecture or of history ; that nothing is left for 
 those who follow in the same field but to condense and verify 
 the descriptions it contains. Frequent references are made to 
 it throughout the following account ; and it is proper to acknow- 
 
106 
 
 and in situations which at the time of their foundation 
 must have been remote and solitary, the position of St. 
 David's, whilst it resembles them in these respects, is 
 infinitely wilder and more striking. With its sur- 
 rounding buildings it rises in the fern-clad valley of 
 the little river Alan, at a distance of little more than 
 a mile from the sea, which bounds the horizon on one 
 side, whilst on the other rise masses of broken crags 
 and earns, of true mountainous outline. Except the 
 
 ledge here the very great use which has necessarily been made 
 of the volume. 
 
 The authorities referred to by Messrs. Jones and Freeman 
 are the ' Annales Canibrige ' (printed in the ' Monumenta 
 Historica Britannica ') ; various writings of Giraldus Cambrensis 
 (for whose connection with St. David's see Part II.) ; two small 
 manuscript volumes entitled 1 Menevia Sacra/ preserved in the 
 library of the Earl of Cawdor, and compiled by Edward Yardley, 
 Archdeacon of Cardigan from 1739 to 1770 ; ' Collectanea Mene- 
 vensia,' two folio MS. volumes in the Chapter House of St. 
 David's, compiled by the late H. T. Payne, Archdeacon ot 
 Carmarthen ; the Statute Books ; the Kegisters ; and the Libri 
 Communes, containing the Chapter Accounts, — all three pre- 
 served among the archives of the Chapter. 
 
 To these authorities we must now add the first volume, 
 published in 1869, of ' Councils and Ecclesiastical Documents 
 relating to Great Britain and Ireland ; edited after Spelman 
 and Wilkins, by A. W. Haddan and William Stubbs.' This 
 contains numerous extracts and documents of the highest value 
 for the early history of the Church and See of St. David's. 
 
 The restoration of the Cathedral was not begun until after 
 the publication of Messrs. Jones and Freeman's History. It is 
 now (1871) advancing rapidly ; and two ' Keports ' have been 
 printed by Mr. G. G. Scott, who has directed it throughout. 
 The first of these reports (1862) was printed before the work 
 was begun ; the second (1869) records its advance up to that 
 date. It is scarcely necessary to add that both are of great 
 value and interest. 
 
f ration of % Catbxbml 107 
 
 Land's End, St. David's Head is the extreme westerly 
 point of Great Britain. 
 
 The Cathedral stands on a holm of level ground, 
 where the steep side of the valley recedes somewhat 
 from the left bank of the river. The stream almost 
 washes the west front of the church. On the north 
 side are the remains of St. Mary's College, with a lofty 
 tower : and across the Alan are the ruins of the once 
 magnificent episcopal palace. The u Dmas, 1 ' or city 
 of St. David's - now a straggling village, and never 
 probably of greater importance — extends along the 
 crest of the hill south and east of the Cathedral. In 
 approaching St. David's from the south-east (from 
 Haverfordwest), as is most usual, nothing is seen of 
 the Church ; and the effect of the wonderful group of 
 buildings is not a little increased by the manner in 
 which the scene suddenly opens as the verge of the 
 river valley is reached. The Cathedral may be 
 approached either from the north-east or from the 
 south-east. Both views are described post (§§ xxi., xxn., 
 and see the Frontispiece) ; but whichever may be 
 chosen, the visitor will linger for some time in admira- 
 tion before he descends to the great Church and 
 attempts to master its details. 
 
 I. Although the primitive Church founded by St. 
 David — the church of the British bishops and princes 
 — no doubt occupied the same site, it has altogether 
 disappeared, and no portion of it remains in the exist- 
 ing Cathedral. It was swept away by Bishop Peter de 
 Leia (1176-1198), who in the year 1180 began to build 
 
108 St. gabi&'s Ca%kuL 
 
 an entirely new church. The work was still proceed- 
 ing in 1189, when the Cardinal Legate, John of 
 Anagnia, granted a dispensation excusing Bishop 
 Peter de Leia, Giraldus, Archdeacon of Brecknock, 
 and other Welshmen from joining the crusade in 
 person, on condition that they assisted those who 
 were going to the Holy Land, and contributed toward 
 the completion of the Church at St. David's. Peter de 
 Leia was the third Norman bishop. The first, Bishop 
 Bernard — not only the first foreign bishop of St. 
 David's, but the first stranger who filled any Welsh 
 See— as well as his successor, David Fitzgerald, 
 seem to have contented themselves with the simple 
 church of their British predecessors ; although (appa- 
 rently as a result of the canonization of St. David by 
 Calixtus II.) this church was solemnly dedicated in 
 1131 in honour of the saint, its founder, to whom St. 
 Andrew was then joined as a second patron. 
 
 The church begun by Peter de Leia cannot have 
 been long completed in 1220, when the "new tower," 
 as it was then called, fell, crushing the choir and tran- 
 septs. The lower part of this central tower, with the 
 portions of the church injured by its fall, were rebuilt 
 between 1220 and 1248 ; but the tower was renewed 
 so injudiciously that it has been threatening a second 
 fall from that time until 1866, when, under the direc- 
 tion of Mr. G. G. Scott, it was rendered perfectly 
 secure. The eastern buildings adjoining the north 
 transept were first designed when the transept itself 
 was reconstructed ; and an Early English chapel, dedi- 
 
f rstcrj of tlje fabric. 109 
 
 cated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, was then built in 
 that situation. In 1248 the church was much injured 
 by an earthquake. The walls of the nave were greatly 
 shaken ; and the clerestory and east end of the choir 
 were altered, probably in consequence of the injuries 
 they had received. 
 
 In this Early English period the chapels east of the 
 presbytery were begun, and the work seems to have 
 extended over a considerable time. The Lady Chapel, 
 which completed the existing ground plan, was the 
 work of Bishop Martyn (1290-1328). His successor, 
 Bishop Gower, (1328-1347) made considerable altera- 
 tions throughout the Cathedral, and apparently on a 
 system. The aisles of the nave and presbytery, and 
 the chapel aisles eastward, had their walls raised to 
 the present height, and preparations were made for 
 vaulting them, a work which was never carried out. 
 Decorated windows were inserted throughout the aisles ; 
 and the walls were strengthened by Decorated but- 
 tresses. A chapel was thrown out from the eastern 
 side of the south transept. The south porch, with its 
 internal doorway, was constructed. Changes were 
 made in the buildings attached to the north transept. 
 A stage was added to the tower ; and the remarkable 
 rood screen, with its monuments, was erected. Bishop 
 Gower built much in different parts of his diocese, and 
 his greatest work, the episcopal palace at St. David's, 
 now in ruin, shows either that he was himself an 
 architect of no ordinary skill and genius, or that he 
 employed one of the most able designers of his time. 
 
110 m. $$bW* Catfecbral. 
 
 During the Early Perpendicular period, before 
 1384, the large window in the south transept (after- 
 wards much altered) was erected. And between the 
 years 1461 and 1522 the roofs were renovated through- 
 out the main portion of the fabric. The nave roof is 
 generally ascribed to Owen Pole, who was treasurer 
 from 1472 to 1509; and it seems probable that the 
 roof of the presbytery also (which is somewhat earlier) 
 was constructed under his direction. About this time 
 some great buttresses were raised against the north 
 wall of the nave, which had been bulging and inse- 
 cure ever since the earthquake of 1248. Bishop 
 Vaughan (1509-1522) vaulted the space east of the 
 presbytery, the condition of which, up to his time, is 
 very uncertain, and also remodelled and vaulted with 
 stone the Lady Chapel and the approach to it. The 
 central tower was raised another stage during his 
 episcopate. 
 
 II. Thus, from the twelfth century to the sixteenth, 
 there was scarcely a time during which some work o 
 importance was not in progress. After the changes of 
 the sixteenth century the building seems to have been 
 well cared for, and much pains were taken to prevent 
 dilapidation. The chapel on the east face of the south 
 transept was connected with the choir aisle, and con- 
 verted into a vestry; and in 1630 the Cathedral was 
 carefully whitewashed, under the direction of Bishop 
 Field. But during the civil war the lead was stripped 
 from the Lady Chapel, the aisles of the presbytery, 
 and apparently from the transepts. The aisles, thus 
 
% KEtat Jfront getotHt HI 
 
 denuded, fell into ruin ; and, after the Restoration, the 
 arches on either side of the presbytery were blocked 
 as a necessary protection. The transept roofs were 
 reconstructed in 1696. The south arch of the central 
 tower was closed, in order to strengthen the tower 
 itself, which had always shown signs of weakness ; 
 and the roof of the presbytery was propped by large, 
 heavy beams. The stone vault of the Lady Chapel 
 remained after the lead had been stripped from it; 
 but it gradually became dilapidated, and fell about 
 the year 1775. 
 
 In 1793 a subscription was raised for rebuilding the 
 west front. This was done by the architect Nash, 
 whose plans were submitted to the Society of Anti- 
 quaries. The Chantry chapel of St. Thomas was con- 
 verted into a Chapter-house in 1827. Bishop Field's 
 whitewash was afterwards removed from the nave piers. 
 In 1843 the south transept was fitted up as a parish 
 church, and the vestry, which had been added on the 
 east side in the seventeenth century, was so altered as 
 to form in effect an eastern aisle. In 1846 the rood 
 screen was partially restored ; the great window of the 
 north transept, long blocked, was taken out and re- 
 placed by one of Decorated character, designed by 
 Butterfield; and in 1849 some of the Perpendicular 
 windows which had been inserted in the south aisle 
 of the nave were blown in by a storm, and their places 
 were supplied by others of Decorated design, more in 
 harmony with the work of Bishop Gower. The north 
 aisle of the presbytery also was roofed in. 
 
H2 Sft. $afrnVs CittljtbraL 
 
 III. This was the condition of the Cathedral when, 
 in 1862, Mr. G. G. Scott was directed to examine and 
 report upon it, with a view to a complete restoration. 
 He found, of course, that every part of the building 
 stood more or less in need of reparation ; but the state 
 of the central tower was such that, before anything 
 else could be done, it was necessary to render that se- 
 cure. It was indeed in imminent danger, and " the only 
 security,' ' wrote Mr. Scott, " which the tower has from 
 actual falling, is the buttressing it sustains from the 
 walls of the transepts and the nave, though the latter 
 have themselves severely suffered under the undue 
 pressure thus brought upon them." b The unusual 
 state of dampness was another most serious evil. 
 " I do not hesitate to say that I have never witnessed 
 anything approaching to it in any other church. The 
 walls, the pillars, and the floor, seem in damp weather 
 perfectly saturated with wet, and after a few hours of 
 heavy rain, they in many parts literally stream with 
 water." c This would partly be remedied by necessary 
 reparations of the roofs and other parts of the build- 
 ing ; but an efficient system of drainage was also called 
 for. The great work of restoration was at once begun ; 
 and when Mr. Scott made his second report in 1869, 
 he was able to announce that the renewal and repair of 
 the tower — a work of considerable danger, and causing 
 the greatest anxiety to all concerned — had been effected 
 without a mischance ; that the Cathedral was com- 
 paratively dry ; and that the restoration of the choir 
 b Report of 1832, p. 12. c Id. 
 
gUstoratiotts. QxttyUdnxul Character. 113 
 
 and presbytery, with the adjoining aisles, had been 
 nearly completed. Since that time the work in the 
 eastern arm of the church has been well finished. The 
 restoration of the north transept has been begun, and a 
 thorough repair of the nave and of its beautiful roof is 
 now (1871) in progress. A sum of nearly 20,000Z. has 
 already been expended on these restorations, 10,000/. 
 of which was granted by the Ecclesiastical Com- 
 missioners ; 1000Z. was subscribed by the Dean and 
 Chapter of St. David's, and 1000Z. by the Lord Bishop 
 of the See. 
 
 The character of the restorations, and the new work, 
 will best be described in passing through the various 
 divisions of the church. From what has already been 
 said, it will be seen that whilst the Cathedral contains 
 work, and important work, of many periods, the greater 
 part of the building — the nave, choir, and presbytery, 
 and portions of the transepts — is Transitional : — 
 Norman passing into Early English. Of this (except 
 on the west side of the transept) nothing whatever 
 appears on the exterior, since the successive changes of 
 the tower and of the aisle walls and windows have 
 given a Late Decorated character to the outside of the 
 church. It is noticeable that all the earlier work — both 
 the Transitional of the nave and the Early English 
 of the Lady Chapel — is less advanced in style than 
 the ascertained dates would lead us to expect. Yet 
 this may well have been intentional. In its Tran- 
 sitional portions especially, the Cathedral, in Mr. 
 Scott's words, " in degree falls short of contem- 
 
 i 
 
114 Si gafrfo's Ca%kal. 
 
 porary structures in the grandeur of its conception, or 
 the beauty and refinement of its details. It lingers in 
 some degree behind many of them in the extent to 
 which the pointed arch has supplanted the round ; but 
 this was probably owing to a desire to avoid undue 
 height rather than to any want of advancement ; for in 
 all the details, and especially in the carved foliage, the 
 skill and taste exhibited is of first-rate order, and the 
 execution of the ornamental masonry could hardly be 
 excelled. Its architect, indeed, seemed determined to 
 plant, in the furthest extremity of our island, the 
 standard of the utmost advancement of his art, at the 
 period of its most determined progression. These 
 facts render the building a wonderfully interesting and 
 valuable landmark in architectural history ; taking, in 
 the extreme west, a position parallel to that held by 
 Canterbury in the extreme east of the island. d 
 
 Throughout the Cathedral, preparations for vault- 
 ing with stone, chiefly on the principle of the vaulting 
 called " sexpartite " by Professor Willis, were made ; 
 but the vaulting, as has been said, was in no case 
 carried out until the Perpendicular period, and then 
 only in the Lady Chapel and the part of the church 
 between that and the Presbytery. The remarkable 
 ground-plan of the cathedral should also be mentioned 
 here. This, as we have seen, was formed gradually 
 by additions to De Leia's building. The interposi- 
 tion of such a closed chapel as that of Bishop Vaughan, 
 between the presbytery and the ambulatory connecting 
 d Keport of 1862, p. 5. 
 
guilbmg Start*. 115 
 
 the aisles, is probably unique, and is, at any rate, 
 without parallel in this country. 
 
 The dark grey, reddish, and purple stones of 
 which the Cathedral is built, and which give by their 
 deep colouring a peculiar richness and warmth to the 
 interior, were brought from Caerfai, one of the most 
 picturesque of the many small bays that indent the 
 shore. The Caerfai rocks belong to the Cambrian 
 series — the most ancient sedimentary rocks known to 
 geologists. They extend throughout Dewisland, and 
 indicate that the territory of St. David has existed as 
 an island in more than one primeval sea, when (except 
 the few points at which they also appear, only in 
 Wales, and at the Prawle and Bolt, the extreme 
 southern headlands of Devonshire) the rest of Britain 
 was still in course of formation beneath the waves. 
 No other important building in this country is built 
 of such primitive stone, and its use gives an additional 
 and a fitting distinction to St. David's. e The greatest 
 distinction of the church, and that to which it was 
 indebted for all its glory of architecture, was, of 
 course, the shrine of its founder. " Ty Dewi," the 
 " House of David," as the cathedral was called, was, 
 to all true Welshmen, the most sacred spot in Britain. 
 St. David was the great patron of Wales, and a double 
 pilgrimage to his shrine equalled the merit of one 
 pilgrimage to Eome : — 
 
 e Igneous rocks (whatever be their date) are here not referred 
 to. The Cambrian of St. David's is the oldest sedimentary 
 rock. Oolite was used in some parts of the Cathedral during 
 the Early English period, and again in the Perpendicular. 
 
 I 2 
 
116 
 
 Si. gktbib's <£a%braJL 
 
 " Meneviam pete bis, Eomam adire si vis, 
 iEqua merces tibi redditur hie et ibi. 
 Koma semel quantum dat bis Menevia tantum." 
 
 It should here be said that, whatever the consti- 
 tution of the Church may have been from the time of 
 St. David (see Part II.) to that of the Norman conquest 
 of Wales, it was, afterwards, never monastic. The 
 Chapter, from the time of the first Norman bishop, 
 Bernard (1115-1147), consisted of the Bishop and a 
 certain number of secular Canons. A Precentor was 
 established in 1224, who afterwards took precedency 
 under the Bishop. There was no Dean until the Pre- 
 centor took that office and title, in accordance with 
 the 3rd and 4th Victoria (c. 113, § 1). 
 
 IV. The West Front of the Cathedral, not far re- 
 moved from the bank of the Alan rivulet, is, as has 
 been said, the work of the architect Nash in the year 
 1793. It is probable, although this does not appear 
 in any document of the time, that the old west front 
 had shown some signs of insecurity ; perhaps owing 
 to the same causes which threw the north wall so 
 much out of the perpendicular. On the inside, the 
 western wall was not apparently interfered with ; and 
 the presentwest window, which is the work of Nash, 
 seems fitted to a rear arch, which comprised a compo- 
 sition of lights, filling the Norman front (see post, § vi.). 
 The exterior of the front presents a curious mixture 
 of styles, though the whole composition is not without 
 merit for the period of its erection. The attempt at 
 Perpendicular in the great window cannot be praised. 
 
ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE I. 
 
 ST DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 THE NAVE 
 
% Safe. 117 
 
 The rest of the work is at least massive and solid. 
 The ends of the nave-walls are propped by great 
 masses, which serve as flying buttresses ; and although 
 it may be hoped that the whole front will be re- 
 modelled before the work of restoration is brought to 
 an end, Mr. Scott has himself suggested that these 
 buttresses should be retained, though under an im- 
 proved form. 
 
 The nave (Plate I.), to which the western portal 
 admits us, is generally assigned throughout to Bishop 
 Peter de Leia (1176-1198). It consists of six bays. 
 Nothing can be more striking than the effect, although, 
 as has been truly remarked, it differs much from that 
 usually produced by a grand late-Norman interior. In 
 this case, the unusual variety and number of the divi- 
 sions, the great richness of ornament, perhaps the colour 
 of the stone, and certainly the superb and almost ara- 
 besque roof, combine to create an impression of great 
 and unusual beauty, but somewhat lessen that feeling 
 of " rocky solidity and indeterminate duration " which 
 affects us in the vast naves of Ely, Peterborough, or 
 Durham, and which is the true expression of Norman 
 architecture. The nave of St. David's is, in fact, 
 unlike that of any other church in this country. The 
 treatment of the triforium and clerestory, forming but 
 one main division, but with the triforium itself well 
 marked ; the massive wall, in which the triforial 
 arches are pierced ; the unusual ornaments in their 
 tympana, and the great richness of the arch which 
 encloses each bay of triforium and clerestory, give 
 
118 St §ubWz «a%trml. 
 
 a very striking and distinct character to the story 
 above the main arcade ; and the unusual amount of 
 ornament bestowed on all this division renders the 
 Perpendicular roof, with its intricacy of lines and 
 fret-work, less out of keeping with the work below 
 than would otherwise, perhaps, have been the case. 
 From the extreme west end, the eye ranges through 
 the nave to the closed choir-screen of Bishop Gower. 
 The eastern tower arch breaks the line of roof, and 
 beyond is seen the coloured ceiling of the presbytery, 
 with the east end of the church in the far distance, 
 banded with stone of differing tints and rich with 
 mosaics and stained glass. 
 
 With the exception of the westernmost bay, which 
 is narrower than the rest, all the arches of the main 
 arcade are rounded. The piers, somewhat lower than 
 usual, are alternately round and octagonal, with shafts 
 attached to the cardinal points ; those toward the 
 aisles, designed as vaulting-shafts, being clustered. 
 " The capitals afford an interesting study ; the pre- 
 valent type is a degenerate, though by no means un- 
 common, variety of the cushion form, though some 
 are of other kinds, several being floriated ; while two 
 of the shafts attached to the first pair of piers from the 
 east are remarkable for the exquisite grace of their 
 foliage, which approaches much nearer to the classical 
 models than is at all usual in this country. A 
 single capital on the north side retains vestiges of a 
 small figure or statue, which has been broken ofi\" f 
 f Jones and Freeman, 'History of St. David's, 5 p. 56. 
 
ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATES II. & III. 
 
 ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. TOFORIUM ARCHES 
 
%\t §Hgs0f % gfefc. 119 
 
 The bases are decidedly Early English in section. The 
 plinths are rectangular. " The arches are very rich, 
 and elaborately moulded on the face toward the nave 
 
 The outer order has sectional mouldings, 
 
 rapidly advancing toward Early English ; the inner 
 has surface-mouldings, partaking a good deal of a 
 sectional character, and which, together with those in 
 the clerestory, afford a valuable study of the process 
 by which the projecting tooth-moulding of the Early 
 English style was developed out of the surface-carved 
 chevron of its predecessor." g The pointing of the 
 westernmost pair of arches was necessary in order to 
 keep the narrower bay at the same height as the 
 others. 
 
 The portion of the elevation above the main arcade 
 is, as has been already said, treated in a very unusual 
 manner. In each bay, triforium and clerestory are set 
 within one main arch. The upper part of this arch is 
 open, and the clerestory window is seen at the back. The 
 lower part is closed by a wall containing two pointed 
 arches, in the spandril between which is a richly- 
 carved roundel (Plates II. and III.). Two of these bays 
 occupy the space above one bay of the main arcade 
 below. The arches enclosing triforium and clerestory 
 are highly enriched, and clustered shafts with carved 
 capitals (originally designed with reference to an 
 intended vaulting) rise between them about half-way 
 up, and now carry small shafts of wood, on which the 
 
 e Jones and Freeman, ' History of St. David's,' p. 57. 
 
120 St. gabfo'g tfat^bral. 
 
 Perpendicular roof rests. The whole effect, owing 
 greatly to the multiplication of arches in this division, 
 is very rich and intricate. " The passage itself is 
 merely formed in the thickness of the wall over the 
 pier-range, and only opens by an occasional round arch 
 into what, were the aisles vaulted, would be the space 
 between the double roofs, and which in the ceiled 
 south aisle really is so, but on the north side is neces- 
 sarily a portion of the aisle itself." h 
 
 The arrangement of triforium and clerestory within 
 a single arch occurs elsewhere, and the Perpendicular 
 version may be studied to advantage in York Minster. 
 But the triforium at York, and in other examples of 
 earlier date, is altogether sacrificed to the clerestory. 
 Here it is at least of equal importance. 
 
 V. The beautiful and most unusual roof of the nave 
 (Plate IV.) will from the first have attracted attention. 
 It was the intention of the Norman architect that his 
 nave should be vaulted, and for this purpose the shafts 
 already mentioned were designed, alternately single 
 and clustered : " those of the latter form being placed 
 over the piers, as having to support the transverse 
 arches of the vault." But the nave is of great width ; 
 and — since the vaulting of such a space was, at that 
 early period, an undertaking of unusual boldness — it is 
 probable that difficulties soon presented themselves, 
 rendering the execution of the design dangerous or 
 impossible. At any rate, it must have been abandoned 
 
 h Id p. 58. 
 
ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. ROOF OF NAVE. 
 
K-fcc goof of % agtafrr. 121 
 
 after the fall of the tower in 1220, followed as that 
 was in 1248 by the earthquake which shook so severely 
 the walls of the nave. 
 
 In what manner the nave was ceiled before the 
 construction of the present roof is unknown. It was 
 possibly covered by a flat ceiling of timber, such as seems 
 to have existed at Llandaff, and such as still remains 
 at Peterborough and St. Alban's. However this may 
 be, there can be no doubt that the earlier roof was 
 plain and simple in comparison of that with which it 
 was replaced toward the end of the fifteenth century. 
 It is asserted, and probably with truth, that this 
 gorgeous ceiling was erected during the treasurership 
 of Owen Pole (1472-1509), and it was perhaps during 
 the same period that the timber roof of the choir was 
 made. The nave roof is, " in its construction, simply 
 a flat ceiling of timber laid upon the walls ; but by 
 some certainly unjustifiable violations of the laws of 
 architectural reality, such as are not uncommon even 
 in the stone roofs of that period, it is made to assume 
 a character wholly its own, and which it is very 
 difficult to describe in an intelligible manner. By 
 the employment of vast pendants, which at the sides 
 take the form of immense overlapping capitals to the 
 small shafts already mentioned, the ceiling appears 
 to be supported by a system of segmental arches 
 effecting a threefold longitudinal division of the roof, 
 and crossed by a similar range springing from the walls. 
 Of course, these arches in reality support nothing, 
 but are, in fact, borne up by what appears to rest on 
 
122 St. gafrib's tfatfrebral- 
 
 them. Notwithstanding this unreality, and the marked 
 inconsistency of the roof with the architecture below 
 — notwithstanding that its general character would 
 have been much more adapted to some magnificent 
 state apartment in a royal palace — still the richness 
 and singularity of such an interminable series of 
 fretted lines renders this, on the whole, one of the 
 most attractive features of the cathedral. Both the 
 arches themselves, and the straight lines which divide 
 the principal panels, drip with minute foliations like 
 lace-work, in a style of almost Arabian gorgeousness. 
 It is much to be regretted that this ceiling cuts off 
 the top of the western arch of the lantern, which at 
 once spoils the effect of the latter, and gives an un- 
 pleasant appearance to the unfinished pendants of 
 the ceiling, when seen from behind\out of the choir. 
 Still, this very view of the roof, in which hardly any 
 other part of the nave is visible, is wonderful in the 
 extreme." 1 
 
 It has been sometimes suggested that this remark- 
 able ceiling may have been brought from elsewhere, 
 and possibly from the great hall of the Bishop's palace. 
 But a careful examination will show that it was cer- 
 tainly constructed for the place which it now fills. 
 It may very probably have been the work of foreign 
 artists ; and as some indications of foreign work may 
 be traced in the tomb of Bishop Morgan (see § xvn.), 
 
 i Jones and Freeman, p. 59. The pendants have now (1872) 
 been completed ; so that the " unpleasant appearance " is very 
 much lessened. 
 
Inferior of % WBxst grant 123 
 
 who died in 1505, Mr. Freeman is disposed to refer 
 it to the period between the death of that Bishop and 
 1509, in which year died the Treasurer Pole. Some 
 of the carving of the roof has completely the character 
 of the Renaissance. 
 
 VI. The interior of the West Front is now plain 
 and bare ; the window, an attempt at Perpendicular, 
 being that introduced by Nash. His also are the 
 circular windows at the western ends of the aisles. 
 The Norman west front had, above the great portal, 
 two tiers of windows : the lower consisting of three 
 equal round-headed lights, the upper of five unequal 
 lancets. Above again was a single lancet in the gable. 
 All these lights seem to have been set in a single 
 rear arch, which was probably retained by Nash, and 
 guided the dimensions and composition of the present 
 window. The appearance of the West Front, before 
 it was touched by Nash, is only known from some 
 indifferent engravings, the best of which is to be found 
 in Grose's 6 Antiquities.' 
 
 Notwithstanding the beautiful colour of the stone, 
 the piers of the main arcade were covered with paint- 
 ings, some faint traces of which still remain. On the 
 south side, the fourth pier from the west has on its 
 eastern face the full-length figure of a king in armour, 
 with a crowned helm, and a sceptre in the left hand. 
 It has been thought to represent Henry IV., and the 
 plate-armour, with knee-caps and elbow-pieces, is of 
 that period. On the west side of the same pier is the 
 Virgin under a canopy, with the inscription "Virgo 
 
124 St. jjabib'g « a %bral. 
 
 Maria." Above is our Lord, with the emblems of 
 the four evangelists ; and on the small attached shafts 
 are figures of seven candlesticks, evidently referring 
 to the vision of St. John. There are traces of a 
 crowned figure on the pier eastward of this, and some 
 remains of painting on the pier opposite on the north 
 side of the nave. 
 
 The Font stands at the western end of the south 
 aisle. It is octagonal, with a rudely-carved arcade of 
 pointed arches. The shaft is not original, and it may 
 be hoped that, before the restoration of the Cathedral 
 is completed, a font more worthy of the church will be 
 placed here. k 
 
 For the Monuments in the nave and its aisles, see 
 
 § XVII. 
 
 VII. The walls of the nave aisles were raised, Deco- 
 rated windows were inserted, and preparations were 
 made for vaulting the aisles by Bishop Gower (1328- 
 1347). In the north aisle only one of the original 
 Decorated windows, with intersecting tracery, re- 
 mains ; the others are " debased " of the seventeenth 
 
 k "A stone which formerly stood beside the font is now 
 preserved in the north transept; it forms a plain, irregularly 
 cyliDdrical shaft, gradually tapering towards the top ; the base 
 is oblong, with the angles chamfered off. The summit is 
 hollowed out to form a basin without a water-drain, and much 
 too small for immersion. The height is two feet six inches. . . . 
 Similar objects are found standing near the fonts of some, 
 churches in Brittany, and are supposed to be connected with 
 the use of chrism in baptism." — Freeman and Jones, p. 77. May 
 not this be a " benitier " for holy water ? A low pillar is used 
 for this purpose in some French churches. 
 
century, and will be removed. The 'windows in the 
 south aisle are, for the most part, modern restorations 
 of Bishop Gower's Decorated. 
 
 The roofs of the Norman aisles were of very much 
 steeper pitch than those which now exist, and when 
 the walls were raised by Bishop Gower the Norman 
 vaulting-shafts were used afresh, and were lengthened 
 to the necessary extent. This accounts for the fact 
 that the vaulting-shafts are unquestionably Norman, 
 whilst they are much longer than the original Nor- 
 man walls would have permitted. The shafts against 
 the aisle walls, and the triple shafts which project 
 from the piers of the great arcades, show that Bishop 
 de Leia had at first designed to cover the aisles with a 
 sexpartite vaulting ; but although the vaulting-shafts 
 exist, and at the east end of the north aisle the arch 
 springing from them is traced out, the vault was never 
 completed ; and " it seems quite impossible that the 
 system thus suggested could ever have been carried 
 out, as the apex of the arch against the east wall falls 
 very much lower than that of the pier-arch, so that a 
 vault of the strangest and most uncouth kind would 
 have been the result. One can only suppose that, in 
 planning the nave, the effect which the vast width of 
 the pier arches would have upon the vaulting — which, 
 as usual, was left for the last thing — was altogether 
 forgotten." 1 
 
 The vaulting system of Bishop Gower was well 
 arranged, and was apparently quite capable of com- 
 1 Jones and Freeman, p. 142. 
 
126 %L QubWz €umxul 
 
 pletion ; but this also, like the Norman vaulting, 
 remained unfinished. The skeleton of a fiat timber 
 ceiling remained in the south aisle until the present 
 restoration. Oak boarding has now been placed above 
 the moulded ribs. The north aisle will eventually be 
 ceiled in a similar manner. 
 
 The vaulting shafts in the north aisle are taller than 
 those in the south. In three bays of the former aisle 
 are slender buttresses of Perpendicular date, abutting 
 against the clerestory wall, and resting on the vaulting 
 shafts, which were shortened to receive them. These 
 buttresses were inserted to counteract the outward 
 leaning of the north wall — a result no doubt of the 
 earthquake of 1248. The great external buttresses 
 (see § xxn.) were afterwards added for the same 
 purpose. 
 
 At the east end of each aisle a Transitional doorway 
 instead of the usual arch gives admission to the transept. 
 The portal in the northern aisle is trefoil headed, 
 beneath a circular enclosing arch. One of the capitals 
 of the shafts carrying this arch is unlike any other in 
 the church. 
 
 In the second bay from the west, opposite to each 
 other, are the portals by which the Cathedral is now 
 generally entered. That on the north side is Norman, 
 slightly enriched. The south portal is very rich 
 Decorated work, and is approached by a porch of two 
 stories. They are described in §§ xxi. xxn. 
 
 VIII. Leaving for the present the closed choir- 
 screen, the work of Bishop Gower (see post, § xvi.), 
 
Ofcorr of St gatriir'a. 127 
 
 we pass through its portal into the ritual choir, which 
 occupies the space beneath the central tower, and half 
 of the bay beyond it. The presbytery takes the re- 
 maining half of this bay, and three bays eastward. 
 All this part of the church, east of the choir screen, is 
 either Peter de Leia's work, or is the work of the re- 
 constructors after the fall of the tower in 1220. It 
 will therefore best be described in immediate connec- 
 tion with the nave. It may here be observed that 
 de Leia's church, there can be no doubt, extended to 
 the existing eastern wall of the presbytery, and was 
 square-ended. 
 
 The tower of Bishop de Leia's church fell in 1220. m 
 There are, as Professor Willis has remarked, few 
 central towers of Norman date which have not fallen, 
 sooner or later. That of Winchester fell in 1107 ; 
 and that of Ely in 1321. The earlier architects were 
 by no means skilled in the safe construction of huge 
 masses ; but no tower, after its fall, was restored so 
 injudiciously as that of St. David's. The western 
 piers, with the arch above them, seem to have suffered 
 little from the fall, and were allowed to remain. The 
 eastern piers, with the three other arches, were rebuilt 
 from the ground. The retention, in such a case, of any 
 part of the old work " is always a dangerous expedient, 
 for not only is it improbable that the remaining por- 
 
 m AnnoMCCXX. " Translatio S. Thomso Martyris Id. Julii. 
 Nova turns Menevensis EcclesiaB die Luna) ante Festum S. 
 Martini, nemine mortuo vel \scso, statim post vesperas in ruinam 
 improvisam versa est." — Annates Menevenses, ap. Wharton, ' Ang. 
 Sac.' ii. p. 650. 
 
128 St. grift', «a%bral. 
 
 tion should be wholly exempt from the defects which 
 caused the destruction of the rest, but a tower resting 
 partly on new and partly on old work can scarcely, in 
 the nature of things, be thoroughly trustworthy." In 
 spite of this, however, and notwithstanding the earth- 
 quake of 1248, which shook the nave walls, and no 
 doubt affected the lower portion of the tower, a 
 Decorated stage was added during the episcopate of 
 Bishop Gower, and a third, or Perpendicular stage, 
 during the episcopate of Bishop Yaughan. It is only 
 wonderful that the tower, thus piled on insecure foun- 
 dations, did not again fall. The older piers and arch 
 were indeed constantly crushing and giving way, and 
 they became disunited with the newer parts to a most 
 marked degree. Attempts to strengthen the tower 
 were made by the addition of massive stone- work at 
 the back of the choir screen ; and at a later period the 
 western and the southern arches were entirely walled 
 up for increased security. Notwithstanding this, how- 
 ever, when Mr. Scott made his first examination of 
 the tower, in 1862, he found the condition of it "in 
 the highest degree alarming." . . . The older por- 
 tions (the western piers and arch) were literally, so 
 far as they were open to examination, shattered to 
 fragments. ..." In fact, the only security which the 
 tower has from actually falling, is the buttressing it 
 sustains from the walls of the transepts and the nave, 
 though the latter have themselves severely suffered 
 under the undue pressure thus brought upon them." 
 n G. G. Scott, Report of 1862, p. 11. 
 
|ltst0ratiotr of % Znfozx. 129 
 
 The first work of restoration was therefore to ensure 
 the safety of the tower — a matter of the utmost diffi- 
 culty, since it involved " little less than the rebuilding 
 from their foundation of two of the four piers, each of 
 them bearing a load of 1150 tons, which would have to 
 be supported by timber shoring during the operation." 
 But the work, under the direction of Mr. Scott, and 
 with the constant personal superintendence of the late 
 Mr. Clear, his clerk of the works, was begun and 
 happily carried through. It was one of the most diffi- 
 cult and delicate operations of its class ever under- 
 taken in this country, and the utmost anxiety was felt 
 by all concerned until the crushed substructure of the 
 tower had been rendered trustworthy. Mr. Scott's 
 report of the measures which were adopted, too long to 
 be inserted in this place, will be found in the Appendix 
 to Part I. 
 
 In its safe and renovated condition, the interior of 
 the tower, with its lofty lantern and Decorated roof, is 
 very striking. Of the four main arches, the western 
 is circular ; the other three, constructed after the fall 
 of the tower in 1220, are pointed. " They are, how- 
 ever, of very much the same general Late Norman 
 character, though - certain differences may be observed 
 in their capitals and mouldings." Of the western 
 piers, the parts toward the nave belong to de Leia's 
 work ; those toward the transepts were added after 
 1220. The eastern and western arches are richly 
 decorated, chiefly on their western sides. But the 
 sculpture throughout, although on some of the capitals 
 
 K 
 
130 §t $tiSb'$ ftatfctteal. 
 
 it is more distinctly of Early English character, is far 
 less advanced than its ascertained date would lead lis to 
 expect. The destruction of de Leia's tower and choir 
 followed so closely on their completion, that the re- 
 builders seem either to have made little architectural 
 progress, or to have set themselves purposely to repro- 
 duce the earlier forms and decorations. 
 
 The pointed arches are higher than the round arch, 
 and the string course above them is consequently 
 carried at a higher level. Above this string course 
 is, on the west side, a wall arcade of pointed arches, 
 four of which once opened, rather more than half their 
 height, into a gallery at the back. The combination of 
 these arches is especially graceful, although the four 
 lower ones are now closed. The slender shafts have 
 capitals of foliage ; and that in the centre springs 
 from a corbel representing a fox's head, above the 
 capital of a lower shaft, on which rest two of the 
 lower arches. This work probably belongs to the 
 second period (after 1220), as do certainly the arcades 
 above the main arches on the three remaining sides. 
 These arcades open to a triforium gallery at the back. 
 Their character is Early English, although the capitals 
 are still somewhat Norman. " They are worth notice 
 as presenting a combination of shafts, corbels, and 
 large bowtells furnished with bases like shafts." 
 
 At this stage the earlier work ends. (See Plate V. 
 This shows the eastern arch of the tower, and the 
 stage of earlier work on the west and south sides. The 
 Decorated stage above, with the vault, are shown as 
 
ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE V. 
 
 •ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. INTERIOR OF TOWER 
 
Jfattltbtg of % ©ofatr. 131 
 
 they were before the restoration : see post.) The stage 
 above is Decorated, and was added by Bishop Gower. 
 This contains on each face a lofty two-light window, 
 haying on each side a pointed arch opening to a wall 
 passage. The springers of a stone vanlt are seen in 
 each angle, level with the base of this Decorated stage ; 
 but the actual roof is a fan vault of wood, raised quite 
 above the Decorated lantern. The ribs of the vault 
 are so arranged as to meet in a large equal-limbed 
 cross in the centre, the beams which form the cross 
 touching the wall on each side. The cross itself is 
 coloured pale blue, with gold and white enrichments. 
 On the oak ground of the vaulting are blazoned shields 
 of arms of the Bishops of the See, from Peter de Leia 
 to Bishop Connop Thirl wall. The ribs of the vaulting 
 are gilt below, and red and black at the sides. The 
 whole colouring (which is entirely modern) is pleasing 
 and harmonious. There were slight traces of a large 
 black and white chequered pattern on the panels, pro- 
 bably the work of the last century, when the stall 
 canopies were painted. 
 
 Before the late restoration of the tower, this wooden 
 vault, which, like the roofs of nave and choir, is a work 
 of the end of the fifteenth or beginning of the sixteenth 
 century, was placed lower down — springing from the 
 earlier stone-work which still remains, and cutting off 
 all the upper portion of the windows of the Decorated 
 lantern. Mr. Scott writes, — " I have done away with 
 this dissight, by lifting the wood groining a stage 
 higher, so as to show Gower's windows in their in- 
 
 k 2 
 
132 gt. JhiuYs Ca%bral. 
 
 tegrity, which forms the lantern into a very fine 
 feature. I trust that as regards the general principle 
 of conservative restoration, this exception will be 
 accepted as one of the class which proves the rule. 
 The wood groining was decorated with colour, and has 
 been repainted." ° 
 
 IX. The space beneath the tower, 27 feet square, 
 serves as the " chorus cantorum," and contains the 
 stalls. A wall, built to strengthen the tower, formerly 
 filled the arch behind the stalls on the south side. 
 This has been removed since the restoration of the 
 tower. The unfinished back of the stall-work is seen 
 in the transept; but this will be properly completed 
 as soon as possible. 
 
 The stalls, twenty-eight in number, consist of a 
 single range of seats, with misereres. The desks in 
 front rise from a stone plinth, in which are pierced 
 openings for air. The whole is the work of Bishop 
 Tully (1460-1480), and deserves attention, although 
 the Late Perpendicular carving is of no very great 
 excellence. In the tracery, and in the cornice which 
 runs above the canopies, signs of the approaching 
 renaissance are evident. The misereres display the 
 usual grotesques, with a few subjects not perhaps to 
 be found elsewhere. On one is a carpenter building 
 a boat, with a man drinking at his side. On another 
 are three men in a boat, with a fourth rowing. One 
 of the passengers leans over the boat, very sick, whilst 
 another supports his head. Whether any of these 
 G. G. Scott, Keport of 1869, p. 24. 
 
Ut Stalls. 133 
 
 subjects were intended, as has been suggested, for 
 attacks on the monks, hated as they doubtless were by 
 the seculars, is not certain. One of them may perhaps 
 " bear on the state of popular religion in the fifteenth 
 century. It represents a fox, cowled, and seated on a 
 bench, offering a small round object, representing 
 either a wafer or a paten, to a figure having the body 
 of a goose with a human head, and wearing a cap of 
 rather peculiar form. A flagon stands on the bench 
 behind the fox." p Over the entrance to the choir is a 
 four-centred arch of oak, having small pendants at 
 the apex, and with its spandrils filled with well-cut 
 foliage. The stalls have, unusually, a gallery over 
 them. The western front of this gallery has a pro- 
 jecting bay, supported by this oaken arch. 
 
 It should be here mentioned that the Sovereign is 
 entitled to a stall in the choir, together with one of the 
 Prebends, known as the " King's Cursal," or " Prae- 
 benda Kegis." It is not certain when this annexation 
 was made. There is no evidence that it is more 
 ancient than the Keformation ; but it may possibly be 
 so, since in some foreign Cathedrals (chiefly in Spain), 
 a " King's Prebend " is also to be found. 
 
 The choir is divided from the presbytery by a par- 
 close of wood, which crosses the church obliquely, 
 between the eastern tower piers and the first piers of 
 the presbytery. The parclose is returned to the tower 
 pier on the north side ; on the south the correspond- 
 ing space is occupied by the Bishop's throne. This 
 p Jones and Freeman, p. 8G. 
 
134: St. gafrifc's «a%irmL 
 
 screen, marking distinctly the ritual division between 
 the " chorus cantorum " and the presbytery, is, so far 
 as has been ascertained, unique in this country. The 
 division itself exists in all great Churches ; but, what- 
 ever may formerly have been the case, it would appear 
 that no other screen is now remaining in a similar 
 position. The parclose here is of very late Decorated 
 character. The lower portion is of closed panel-work, 
 trefoil-headed, with a peculiar leafage at the cusps. 
 Above is an open arcade of unusual design ; the tracery 
 reticulated, with sex-foiled headings, the lowest foil 
 being slightly elongated. 
 
 The wide doorway is not in the centre of the parclose, 
 though it is nearly opposite the entrance to the choir 
 under the rood screen. The return on the north side 
 is plainer, and is probably of somewhat earlier date. 
 The Bishop's throne, on the south, is a complicated 
 structure, light and graceful, with rich canopies. The 
 woodwork, however, is of various dates ; the frame- 
 work apparently Late Perpendicular, some other por- 
 tions Decorated, and the lower panels, judging from 
 their peculiar cusping, of the same date as the par- 
 close screen. This agrees with the belief that Bishop 
 Morgan (1496-1505) erected the throne, which con- 
 tains three seats, the two at a lower level being in- 
 tended for certain officers in attendance. The back 
 part of the throne is rude and unfinished, although it 
 seems, since its erection, to have occupied the same 
 position as at present. 
 
 The history of all this woodwork seems to be as 
 
% |ard0se. 135 
 
 follows : — After the erection of the rood screen by 
 Bishop Gower in the fourteenth century, it was 
 ordered that the Canons' stalls should be reconstruc- 
 ted. To this period accordingly belong the parclose, 
 and the lower panels of the Bishop's throne. Gower's 
 stalls were removed, and replaced by those which now 
 exist, in the fifteenth century ; and later again Bishop 
 Morgan erected the present throne, much Decorated 
 work from Gower's stalls being apparently used up in 
 it. The parclose, judging from the different character 
 of the work in its north return, and from other indica- 
 tions, does not occupy its original position. It is 
 probable that it extended at first between the eastern 
 tower piers, and that when Bishop Morgan erected the 
 throne it was removed a short distance eastwards 
 
 The stalls were necessarily removed during the re- 
 storation of the tower. Together with the parclose, 
 and the Bishop's throne, they have been most carefully 
 and minutely repaired, " the greatest care being taken 
 to preserve the ancient work as nearly untouched as is 
 possible." The floor of the choir has been laid with 
 encaustic tiles, and a greater contrast can hardly be 
 conceived than that between the present appearance of 
 the choir, and its condition — neglected, decaying, and 
 crowded with lofty pews — before the restoration. The 
 view from the entrance of the choir, looking beyond 
 the tower into the presbytery, with its painted roof, 
 and its eastern end enriched with banded stone of 
 various colour, with stained glass, and with mosaics, is 
 
 q See Jones and Freeman's History, pp. 90-93. 
 
136 £t. $aMr* Ca%braL 
 
 especially striking. The height of the choir above the 
 nave gives a peculiar character to the view westward ; 
 and from the parclose, or from the eastern tower 
 piers, the long vista of the beautiful nave roof is well 
 seen. Little more of the nave is indeed visible from 
 this point. 
 
 X. The Presbytery (Plate VI.), which we enter 
 through the parclose, consists of three bays and a 
 half, including the easternmost bay, in which stands 
 the altar. 
 
 The tower, in 1220, fell eastward and ruined the 
 presbytery, and, in some degree, the transepts of 
 de Leia's church. The rebuilders were evidently 
 anxious to introduce as little architectural novelty as 
 possible, and, with the exception of the pointed arches, 
 there is little difference between the general character 
 of the work in the nave and of that in the presbytery. 
 The side walls were at first lower than they now are, 
 and there was a high-pitched roof. At the east end 
 were two ranges of windows, — three lights below and 
 four above. In the fifteenth century the high roof 
 was taken off, the side walls raised about six feet, 
 the gable lowered, and a very flat roof placed on the 
 walls thus altered. At this time also the upper tier 
 of lancets in the eastern wall was removed, and 
 the space they occupied was converted into a single 
 Perpendicular window. Somewhat later, when Bishop 
 Vaughan constructed his chapel (see § xix.), the lower 
 tier of lancets was entirely closed. The aisles of the 
 presbytery had been much altered by Bishop Gower 
 
ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL THE PRESBYTERY 
 
I 
 
 ■ 
 
Uz f rrsbgterg. 137 
 
 in the fourteenth century. After the lead was stripped 
 from them during the Civil War, they fell into ruin ; 
 and at the Kestoration, when the Cathedral was put 
 into some kind of order, the main arcades of the 
 presbytery were walled up, thus cutting off the 
 aisles altogether. Toward the end of the century 
 the roof of the presbytery was propped by large heavy 
 beams/ 
 
 This was the condition of the eastern arm of the 
 Church when Mr. Scott undertook the restoration of 
 it. This has been happily accomplished, and the 
 present appearance of the presbytery is more striking, 
 and certainly more beautiful, than it can have been 
 at any time since the first changes were made in the 
 fifteenth century. The walls, pillars, and .arches have 
 been put into a state of thorough repair. The aisles 
 have been opened, roofed, and restored. The roof of 
 the presbytery itself has been most carefully repaired, 
 and renewed where necessary; and, instead of the 
 Perpendicular window, the upper tier of lancet lights 
 has been replaced, sufficient fragments having been 
 found to admit of their reconstruction with certainty. 
 Indeed the greater part of these lancets, on the in- 
 terior, is composed of the original moulded stones. 
 It was, of course, impossible to re-open the lower tier, 
 since Bishop Vaughan's chapel blocks them at the 
 back, but their stonework has been thoroughly re- 
 
 r An engraving in Jones and Freeman's ' History of St. 
 David's ' shows the Presbytery as it was before the late 
 restoration. 
 
138 at. Jaffa's Ca%terf. 
 
 paired and the spaces of the lights themselves filled 
 with mosaics. 
 
 The piers of the presbytery, alternately round and 
 octangular, greatly resemble those in the nave. Tall, 
 clustered shafts, terminating a little under the string 
 above the arcade, are attached to the piers and support 
 smaller Decorated shafts with rich capitals — part, it 
 seems probable, of Bishop Gower's design for vaulting 
 the Cathedral. The pointed arches have mouldings 
 of the same character as those in the nave. The 
 capitals of the piers vary. On the north side they 
 retain for the most part the form which is common 
 in the nave ; on the south they display more foliage 
 and varied ornament, and are more decidedly Early 
 English. Above each arch is a pointed clerestory 
 light, set deep in the wall, with rich outer mouldings 
 of that peculiar zigzag from which, to all appear- 
 ance, was developed the Early English star or dog- 
 tooth. At the angles of the hood-mouldings are 
 small corbels, with heads and leafage. On the north 
 side, between each clerestory light, is a trefoil-headed 
 niche. It is clear that preparations were twice made 
 — by the rebuilders after 1220, and in the Decorated 
 period — for vaulting the choir. This, however, was 
 never accomplished. The design of the rebuilders 
 was evidently suspended during their operations, since 
 the niches were added exactly where the groining 
 arches would have come ; and the upper range of 
 east windows was added without any reference to 
 vaulting. 
 
% HLoof of t\}t frcsbntog. 139 
 
 The existing roof of the presbytery was, no doubt, 
 erected during the period (1472-1509) when Owen 
 Pole was treasurer. On it are the arms of Bishop 
 Tully (1461-1481) and of his successor Bishop Martyn 
 (1482-1483), and it would appear that Bishop Tully 
 made an annual payment to the treasurer " ad usum 
 fabrics " during the progress of this and other works 
 connected with it. s The roof itself, but slightly raised, 
 is in panels. Five of the great beams were found 
 (1865) to be hopelessly decayed, and their size was 
 such that it was not easy to obtain trees sufficiently 
 large to replace them. Oaks, from which similar 
 beams could be cut, were at last procured from Bad- 
 norshire, Shropshire, Herefordshire, and the Forest of 
 Dean. 
 
 The old roof was richly coloured, but the panels 
 had been repainted in a discordant style in the seven- 
 teenth century. The whole colouring has been re- 
 newed. The main beams, retaining their old designs, 
 are painted in black, white, and red. The panels, 
 each of which is subdivided into four, have ornaments 
 of various colours on a ground of yellowish white. 
 At the main bosses are blazoned shields and richly- 
 gilt leafage. The shields are those of Bishop Tully ; 
 the Earl of Kichmond (buried here, see § xvn.) ; that 
 assigned to Ehodri Mawr, King of Gwynedd, killed 
 a.d. 877 ; Bishop Martyn ; Owen Pole, the treasurer ; 
 France and England, quartered ; Edward Y. ; Eichard 
 III. ; Henry VII. ; Ehys ap Tudor ; and Bishop 
 1 Jones and Freeman, p. 1G3. 
 
140 £t ghbib's «a%bnil. 
 
 Young. All these shields occupy their original posi- 
 tions. At the corbels were other shields, the arms on 
 which had been obliterated ; they are now blazoned 
 with the arms of the present Bishop, Dean, Canons, 
 and Archdeacons, thus marking the period of the 
 restoration. On the whole, the colouring of this 
 ceiling, rich and varied as it is, is not so satisfactory 
 as that in the tower — partly, perhaps, owing to its 
 being so much lower and so much nearer to the eye. 
 
 The east end of the presbytery, as it now exists, is 
 a restoration to the form which it presented after the 
 rebuilding of 1220, with the exception that the lower 
 tier of windows is no longer open. When, in the 
 fifteenth century, a Perpendicular window was in- 
 serted in the east end, the stonework of the original 
 upper tier of lights was used for heightening the 
 side walls above the clerestory, — an operation which 
 formed part of the plan for remodelling the presby- 
 tery. At the same time the present roof was con- 
 structed. Mr. Scott, finding that the dead walls above 
 the clerestory " were a perfect mine of the debris of 
 the upper tier of windows," and that the Perpendicular 
 window, the design of which was far from good, was 
 in a state of great decay, determined to restore the 
 old arrangement. Accordingly, he took down the dead 
 walls, discovering in them " not only evidence suffi- 
 cient to show the precise design of the ancient eastern 
 lancets, but sufficient to go a considerable way in re- 
 constructing them with their own ancient materials." 
 Below the cill of the Perpendicular window those of 
 
Itye (East (Bnb af % $ttibgtag. 141 
 
 the original lights were found still in situ. The 
 restored east end, therefore, consists of three very fine 
 closed lancets below, and of a range of four pointed 
 lights above. 1 
 
 In the lower range, "Norman and Early English 
 details are more palpably intermingled than in any 
 other portion of the church, there being a profusion of 
 rich Romanesque mouldings, while the shafts, which 
 are banded several times, have both the round and 
 the square abacus." 51 The windows are set deeply in 
 the wall ; the banded shafts have capitals of leafage. 
 At the angles of the hood mouldings are angels, and 
 beyond again, projecting heads. Small shafts, resting 
 on brackets, like those on the interior of the western 
 tower arch, fill the angles of the wall north and south. 
 At the base of the windows runs a very rich band, 
 having an embattled moulding above a series of inter- 
 lacing arches. 
 
 The upper range of lights, " reproduced from their 
 original materials, after being for four centuries im- 
 mured," forms internally a continuous arcade, sup- 
 ported on clusters of light shafts, some of the capitals 
 
 * The blank wall above the clerestory was rebuilt by Mr. 
 Scott, after it had been worked as a mine of debris. Although 
 without character, its rebuilding was necessary, in order to 
 support the existing roof, for the sake of which the walls had 
 at first been raised. During the restoration of this roof, por- 
 tions of that which had preceded it were found among the 
 timbers, " showing that it was perfectly plain, though massive, 
 and of the cradled form, so usual at early periods." — Second 
 Report (1869) by G. G. Scott, p. 17. 
 
 u Jones and Freeman, p. GS. 
 
142 gatrita <£a%bral. 
 
 of which are foliaged. The wall passage runs between 
 this arcade and the windows, which are somewhat 
 narrow. In the window mouldings and in the main 
 eastern wall there is an arrangement of variously- 
 coloured stones, which gives great additional richness 
 to the general effect. In the mouldings of the lower 
 lancets, the purple local stone alternates with oolite. 
 The inner mouldings of the upper lights are white 
 oolite, and plain bands of the same are carried across 
 the wall. 
 
 The wall at the back of the altar, below the great 
 triplet, is of rubble ; and in the centre, set back 
 within a small square opening, is a circlet, containing 
 a cross with equal arms, the intervals between which 
 open to the chapel at the back. This cross will be 
 best explained, so far as that is possible, in describing 
 the chapel (see § xix.). It was discovered during Mr. 
 Scott's restoration. 
 
 The cross is, to all appearance, of the same date as 
 the Norman work of the nave, and should be compared 
 with the circlets in the spandrils of the nave triforium 
 arches. It appears that the rubble wall in which it is 
 set was part of de Leia's work. The tower fell east- 
 ward, destroying the portions of the church immedi- 
 ately adjoining it, and greatly damaging the eastern 
 wall. But the lower part of the east end — possibly 
 including the lower tier of lights — was uninjured 
 and is therefore of the original date, together with the 
 eastward portions of the side walls. The western 
 bays of the sides and the upper tier of eastern 
 
She §luss anb gStosaits. 
 
 143 
 
 lights are certainly of the later date. " This is 
 made very manifest on the south side of the clerestory 
 by a triforium passage, originally communicating 
 with that in the south transept, but which was omitted 
 in the reconstructed parts, thus cutting off the com- 
 munication." x 
 
 XI. The glass in the upper tier of eastern lights, 
 and the mosaics which fill the closed windows below, 
 are gifts to the Cathedral from the Eeverend John 
 Lucy, rector of Hampton Lucy, in Warwickshire, and 
 are partly memorials of his ancestor, William Lucy, 
 Bishop of St. David's from 1660 to 1677. The glass, 
 by Hardman, represents the Nativity, the Transfigura- 
 tion, the Agony in the Garden, and the Last Supper. 
 The mosaics were worked by Salviati in the famous 
 manufactory at Murano, from cartoons by Mr. Powell, 
 of Messrs. Hardman's establishment at Birmingham.-' 
 The subjects are — in the central window, the Cruci- 
 fixion, with figures of the Virgin and St. John ; the 
 
 * G. G. Scott, < Report of 1862,' p. 18. 
 
 y The revival of the glass and mosaic manufacture at Murano 
 is of recent date. Some time after 1840 Dr. Salviati became its 
 principal patron, and proprietor of the chief establishment. 
 His most important works in England are the mosaics in the 
 Wolsey Chapel at Windsor, others in St. Paul's Cathedral, 
 London, and in Westminster Abbey, and some at South Ken- 
 sington. The coloured cartoons for the St. David's windows 
 were of the full size of each space; and each block of mosaic 
 was clearly marked out. They were sent to Venice ; and the 
 work, when completed, arrived in England ready for fixing in 
 the window spaces. This is done with a special cement, said 
 to be identical with that used by ancient mosaicists for the 
 same purpose. 
 
144 St. Srift'i (£a%bral. 
 
 Magdalene kneels at the foot of the cross. In the 
 side windows are full-length figures of " Ecclesia " 
 and " Synagoga," the Christian Church and the Jewish. 
 In a predella below the central mosaic is a repre- 
 sentation of the brazen serpent, with figures of Moses 
 and Aaron. Below the others are — St. David distri- 
 buting alms to the poor, and St. David addressing the 
 Synod of Llandewi Brefi. Each of the larger subjects 
 has a rich architectural canopy ; and a broad border, of 
 very beautiful design, surrounds the whole. 
 
 The central mosaic has, to some extent, a Byzantine 
 character. The figure of the Saviour on the cross is 
 surrounded by a vesica-shaped wreath* of clouds, con- 
 ventionally formed. On His head is a golden and 
 jewelled crown, from which three rays extend to the 
 outer edge of an enriched aureole. The blood flowing 
 from His hands and feet is received in chalices. The 
 cross is coloured green (as though to represent the 
 Tree of Life), and is set with jewels. St. John holds 
 the book of his Gospel, and extends one hand toward the 
 Saviour. The Virgin stands with hands clasped. The 
 robe of the kneeling Magdalene is powdered with Ms — 
 an unusual distinction — but the robe-colouring gene- 
 rally assigned to her, to the Virgin, and St. J ohn, has not 
 here been adopted. They are in white, with gilt and 
 coloured borders ; all have coloured and jewelled aure- 
 oles. Above the cross, on either side, are angels, veiling 
 the sun and the moon. The whole subject is thrown 
 out from a golden ground, as in the other mosaics. 
 
 The figures of the Christian and the Jewish 
 
Pasaixs in; % |)tx$bj)fcrg. 145 
 
 Churches, in the side windows, are such as fre- 
 quently occur throughout the mediaeval period, in both 
 stained glass and sculpture. " Ecclesia " stands erect, 
 crowned, bearing a cross and a chalice. " Synagoga " 
 is blindfold, the crown is falling from her head, and 
 the staff on which she leans is breaking to pieces. 
 " Ecclesia " is robed in ecclesiastical vestments, white, 
 with golden and jewelled borders, and her aureole is 
 deep blue. Above her head is an angel bearing a 
 scroll. " Synagoga " has the rich robes, bordered with 
 bells and pomegranates, of the Jewish high-priest, and 
 on her breast is the "breastplate of cunning work," 
 with the twelve precious stones. 
 
 Immediately under the Crucifixion are the words, 
 " Ecce Agnus Dei, ecce qui tollit peccata mundi ; " and 
 below again, within an arcade of three arches are the 
 brazen serpent, Moses, and Aaron — one bearing his 
 rod, the other his " rod that budded." The arcade is 
 much enriched with coloured borders and architectural 
 ornament. Under the figure of Ecclesia is St. David 
 bestowing alms. He wears a grey monastic robe. 
 Under Synagoga, he is addressing the Bishops at 
 Brefi (see Part II.). He stands in the centre, while the 
 Bishops, wearing their mitres, are seated round, with a 
 white robed Abbot in the foreground. 
 
 All the mosaics have, as has been said, a golden 
 ground, which, in parts lies in broad masses, and 
 throws into strong relief the white robes and pale 
 flesh-tinting of the principal figures. The borders and 
 other ornaments, all of which are of great beauty and 
 
 L 
 
146 St. §ubxV* Ca%braL 
 
 deserve careful attention, are rich and varied in colour ; 
 and considering that the east end of the presbytery is 
 by no means strongly lighted, it was unquestionably 
 desirable that the mosaics themselves should be as 
 clear and as distinct as possible. It has been objected 
 to the design of the principal figures that they com- 
 bine a certain antique stiffness and slenderness of draw- 
 ing, with a modern character and expression in the 
 heads and faces. How far this is really an error, each 
 observer may determine for himself. The heads are 
 at any rate striking, full of beauty and of feeling ; and 
 since the mosaics are intended to instruct and influence 
 those who look on them, no less than to ornament the 
 church in which they are placed, it may well be 
 doubted whether the artist would have been wise to 
 have sacrificed the expression he has certainly con- 
 veyed, to a more strict imitation of his ancient 
 examples. The effect of the mosaics, with the shim- 
 mer of their gold, and their pale solemn figures light- 
 ing up the dark wall of the sanctuary, is unusually 
 fine. They harmonize in a wonderful manner with the 
 deep hues of the surrounding stonework. Perhaps no 
 more worthy decoration has been placed in any of those 
 English Cathedrals which of late years have been so 
 nobly adorned ; and it is fitting that the " old coat " of 
 the Lucys should find its place in the pavement of 
 the presbytery, and in the stained glass above — a 
 memorial, as well of the former Bishop as of the 
 giver of these rich and costly decorations. 
 
 On a brass, beneath the central window, is the in- 
 
«frc par. 147 
 
 scription — " In honorem Dei, et in memoriam Gulielmi 
 Lucy, S. T. P., hujus Ecclesise Cathedralis regnante 
 Carolo secundo, praeclari episcopi ; has picturas mu- 
 rales et fenestras superne, pietate adductus, dat 
 dedicat Johannes Lucy per multos annos Hamptoni 
 Lucy Rector, a.d. 1871." 
 
 XII. There is a gradual rise of four paces from the 
 choir to the eastern bay, where stands the altar. The 
 first of these paces is at the east end of the second bay 
 from the west ; the second is in the middle of the next 
 bay, at the end of which is the third ; and the altar 
 itself stands on the fourth. The presbytery is paved 
 throughout with encaustic tiles, a large portion of 
 which are ancient, and exceedingly good. The rest 
 have been copied from them, except one, which gives 
 the "three white luces,'' the "old coat" of the Lucys of 
 Warwickshire, one of whose descendants has been so 
 liberal a contributor to the restoration. On the south 
 side of the lowest pace, close under the wooden 
 sedilia, are some curious small ancient bordering tiles. 
 These are of the fifteenth century, and date from the 
 time when the presbytery was remodelled. In the 
 centre of the second pace from the west, in a narrow 
 stone forming the edge of the step, is a squared hole 
 for receiving the stem of a lectern from which the 
 Gospel was read. 
 
 The altar is a long and fine slab of grey sand- 
 stone, raised on an oaken frame. All this is entirely 
 new. It does not touch the eastern wall ; and behind 
 it, in the floor, have been placed some altar slabs, 
 
 l 2 
 
148 
 
 Sit gte&iir's Catljcbml 
 
 marked by crosses, and found used as paving in front 
 of the low wall in the arch on the south side of the 
 presbytery. One of these, at the south end, is remark- 
 ably small, 14f inches by 9 inches. It is marked by the 
 usual five crosses, and had been let into a large slab 
 of stone of a different kind. It is itself of the hardest 
 local stone, and judging from the careful manner in 
 which it had been preserved, it seems to have been 
 regarded as a relic of especial value and importance. 2 
 
 2 It is to be regretted that this small altar-slab was removed 
 from the larger stone in which it was set. There are two of 
 these larger stones— one in which the small altar was set, and 
 another exactly fitting to it. The length of each of the large 
 stones is 2 feet 10J inches. The width is 2 feet 3 inches, but a 
 slip 2 j inches wide has been cut away from that in which 
 the small altar was inserted. The large stones are 8 inches 
 thick ; the inserted slab 2 inches. The former have been put 
 together and will be preserved. The inserted slab was perhaps an 
 " altare portabile," — that is, an altar-slab consecrated by the 
 Bishop at a distance, and inserted in an unconsecrated stone 
 (such portable altars were used on journeys ; and the legend 
 of St. David mentions one among the gifts bestowed by the 
 Patriarch of Jerusalem on the saint and his companions) ; or 
 it may have been the " seal " or slab covering a sepulcrum or 
 cavity in the altar, made to receive relics, or the consecrated 
 host. An inlaid slab, resembling this at St. David's, has been 
 found during the restoration of the Jesus Chapel in Norwich 
 Cathedral. The small slab of Purbeck marble, marked with 
 live crosses, measures 20J inches by 22^ inches. It is inserted 
 in a stone from Clipsham in Kutland, 5 feet 9 inches long, 
 3 feet 3 inches broad, and 7 inches thick. . The " seal " in this 
 case has been raised, but no relics were found. The stone now 
 serves as the altar of the Jesus Chapel. The covering of the 
 sepulchre in an altar is called the "sigillum" by Durandus 
 ( 4 Rationale,' i. 6, 34). See, for a further account of the Norwich 
 slab, ' Notes and Queries/ April, June, Sept., 1871. It appears 
 that these are the only examples of a sealed altar remaining in 
 
%\t gxslcs of % f rtsbnkrg. 149 
 
 The main arcades had been walled up after the aisle 
 roofs fell. In opening that on the south side, part of 
 a low stone wall (of the Transitional period) was found 
 in the first bay. This wall, separating the presbytery 
 from the aisle, has been restored, and on its top is 
 fixed the basin of a piscina, dug up in the church- 
 yard, and supposed by Mr. Scott to have been removed 
 from this place. In the next bay were found the 
 ancient sedilia. These are of wood, and of the fifteenth 
 century. They have been carefully restored. There 
 are three seats, raised on two steps running the whole 
 length of the bay. The backs of the seats are of open 
 screen-work. 
 
 The various monuments in the presbytery, includ- 
 ing the remaining portion of St. David's shrine, are 
 described in § xvi. 
 
 XIII. The aisles of the presbytery have undergone 
 various changes, the traces of which are still evident. 
 They were reconstructed after the fall of the tower. 
 In the Early English period, the south wall of the 
 south aisle was taken down and set farther back. 
 Bishop Gower (1328-1347) removed the old roofs, raised 
 the walls of the aisles, and inserted Decorated windows. 
 The aisles became ruined in the seventeenth century, 
 and have now been restored and roofed anew by Mr. 
 G. G. Scott. 
 
 The aisles are approached from the transepts 
 through massive pointed arches, which are apparently 
 
 this country, — if the St. David's slab be a " seal," and not an 
 u altare portabile. ' 
 
150 m. gabfo's tfatfcrimtl. 
 
 of the second period, and built therefore after the fall 
 of the tower. The capitals of the pier shafts resemble 
 those of the shafts in the presbytery ; but, as in that 
 case, there has been so little departure from the mould- 
 ings and ornaments of de Leia's work, that it is not 
 easy to determine with certainty the period to which 
 they belong. The piers of the presbytery, where they 
 face the aisles, are constructed in a remarkable manner. 
 A group of small shafts is attached to each pier, the 
 capitals of which terminate in brackets below the 
 capitals of the piers themselves. It is difficult to 
 understand for what purpose such an arrangement can 
 have been made, unless the brackets were intended to 
 support figures. 
 
 The evidence that the south aisle was widened in 
 the Early English period is sufficiently distinct. In 
 the second bay from the east, the base of the earlier 
 vaulting shaft remains, projecting inward, below the 
 later base, and westward of this the bases do not 
 descend to the level, but are raised on square 
 blocks. That the aisle was widened in the Early 
 English period, and not later, when the walls were 
 raised, is clear, "both because the east wall to the 
 south of the arch leading into the chapel aisle is 
 of a piece with the jamb of that arch, and also because 
 the Decorated string cuts through the canopy of a 
 Decorated tomb, which must therefore have been in- 
 serted in the Early English wall before the general 
 Decorated repair." a 
 
 a Jones and Freeman, p. 155. 
 
Structure of % |)«sbfgierg gusks. 151 
 
 The eastern walls of the presbytery aisles were 
 pierced with arches in the Early English period, when 
 the chapels beyond them were commenced (see § xviit.). 
 It has been suggested that the walls themselves belong 
 to de Leia's church, which certainly did not extend 
 farther to the east. In both walls the steep ancient 
 roof line is visible, and that roof seems to have been 
 unchanged until the fourteenth century, when the 
 walls were raised by Bishop Gower. In the east wall 
 of the north aisle, below this roof line, is a round arch 
 with a moulded rib, patched apparently during the 
 Transitional rebuilding with a moulding of different 
 section, and resting on a capital of much later date. 
 Below this arch is that of a round-headed window ; 
 and below again, cutting through the window, is the 
 Early English arch of entrance to the eastern chapel, 
 with shafts and foliaged capitals. In the south- 
 east angle of the wall is a door leading to the 
 arcaded passage in the eastern window of the presby- 
 tery. All this change is difficult to unravel, and not 
 the less so because earlier work seems to have been 
 used up in the successive alterations ; but it is quite 
 possible that the uppermost round arch may be part of 
 de Leia's work, retained in course of the rebuilding. 
 In the south aisle the Early English arch is alone 
 visible, having within it a small pointed arch, which 
 must have been inserted when the main arch was 
 built up. 
 
 Bishop Gower, as has been said, raised the aisle 
 walls and inserted Decorated windows. These were 
 
152 St. gatifr tfaifecbral. 
 
 found by Mr. Scott in a most ruined condition. On 
 the north side there were evidences of the old form of 
 the tracery which was followed in the restoration. The 
 windows "in the south aisle had no remains of the tracery 
 left, and even the jambs were so shattered that it was 
 only by a fragment here and there that the mouldings 
 were recovered. These were found to be curiously 
 varied; out of four windows two only being alike. 
 The tracery introduced has been founded on frag- 
 mentary evidences from other parts of the church of 
 the same date." b The aisles had been twice prepared 
 for vaulting, in the Transitional period and by Bishop 
 Gower. The vaulting shafts of the first time, and (in 
 the south aisle) the springers of the second, remain ; 
 but the stone vault was never completed; and 
 the aisles have now been covered with handsome 
 oak roofs of Decorated character, and displaying some 
 good carving. As in the nave, the earlier vaulting 
 shafts were used up and lengthened in Bishop Grower's 
 alterations. 
 
 In the north aisle there are only two windows, 
 the westernmost bay being closed by the approach to 
 St. Thomas's Chapel. In the south aisle remains of 
 windows were found in all four bays, though the 
 
 b G. G. Scott; Report of, 1869, p. 21. 
 
 c In the second bay from the west, in the north aisle of the 
 presbytery, were found indications of the original round-headed 
 window. The dressings had been removed, but the rougher 
 walling which abutted upon and surrounded the window, in 
 part remained. Although walled up, the window may still be 
 traced. 
 
Elje jKranaepts* 153 
 
 westernmost was interfered with by the aisle or 
 vestry mentioned in § il. The south transept had 
 at first a single chapel, of Bishop Gower's period, 
 having a space between it and the aisle of the pres- 
 bytery (see post, § xiv.). This space was afterwards 
 built over, forming the transept aisle. The older 
 form has been restored by Mr. Scott. 
 
 The low wooden gallery at the west end of the 
 north aisle opens to a staircase leading to the ancient 
 Chapter-house (see § x\ \ This staircase had long 
 been disused, and the woodwork in the aisle is modern. 
 
 For the monuments in the aisles of the presbytery 
 see post, § xvii. 
 
 XIV. Of the transepts, the western walls appear to 
 be of de Leia's time ; the rest is of the second period, 
 after 1220. They have been much altered at various 
 periods, though the changes are more evident on the 
 exterior than within. Large Perpendicular windows 
 were inserted in the north and south walls. That 
 south was much earlier than the one in the opposite 
 transept ; but at a later period it was blocked, and four 
 Perpendicular windows, in two stages, were inserted. 
 The window in the north transept, which was late and 
 bad, was replaced in 1846 by a large Decorated window 
 (by Butterfield), copied for the most part from one at 
 Sleaford in Lincolnshire. 
 
 The south transept was converted in 1843 into 
 a parish church, and still remains fitted accordingly. 
 The north transept is now (1871) in course of restora- 
 tion, and is to be covered with an oak vaulting. The 
 
154 gi. ghbib's (KatferirraL 
 
 cost of the work in this part of the church will be 
 borne by the Key. James Allen, Chancellor of the 
 diocese. The western wall of this transept has been 
 much crushed by the pressure of the tower. It con- 
 tains two of the original round-headed windows, now 
 walled up, one of them being tolerably perfect. These 
 will shortly (1872) be opened. There is also a Transi- 
 tional doorway. In the west wall of the south transept 
 also there are remains of the original windows, and 
 of a doorway. 
 
 At the eastern sides of each transept are three 
 pointed arches (including those which open to the 
 presbytery aisles, and which are somewhat lower than 
 the others). In the original design the arches beyond 
 those of the aisles served as recesses for altars, with 
 the exception of the northernmost arch in the north 
 transept, through which was the entrance to St. 
 Thomas's Chapel. (The north transept was dedicated 
 to St. Andrew, whose altar stood in the central arch.) 
 This chapel (see § i.) formed part of the plan for 
 rebuilding the transept after its ruin by the fall of the 
 tower in 1220. In the south transept a chapel, form- 
 ing a sort of eastern aisle, was added by Bishop Gower 
 in the fourteenth century. As has already been said 
 (ante, § xhl), this chapel was not joined to the wall of 
 the presbytery aisle, but a junction was effected, late 
 apparently in the sixteenth century, and the chapel 
 was converted into a vestry. Later again it became 
 the eastern aisle of the parish church. Mr. Scott has 
 restored it to its original proportions. The old base 
 
Qxrtnz of % STranstpts. 155 
 
 moulds concealed by the extension of the Chapel into 
 an aisle still remain. The south transept was known 
 as the " Chanter's Chapel." It contained an altar 
 dedicated to the Holy Innocents, and probably one to 
 St. David. 
 
 The eastern arches of the transepts, and the de- 
 corative shafts and arches in the wall above them 
 deserve attention, from the peculiar development of 
 Early English forms which they exhibit. The arches 
 are throughout pointed, and are comparatively plain, 
 since they are without the enriched mouldings of the 
 nave and choir. " The responds adjoining the lantern 
 piers present a remarkable feature, namely, a detached 
 column, of dimensions very unusual for such a posi- 
 tion, and rather resembling in size and proportion those 
 which often serve as piers in small Norman churches. 
 They rise, moreover, in a singular manner, out of 
 masses of masonry, like the set-offs of a buttress." d In 
 the shafts, the neck-moulding is entirely absent, and 
 as at Llandaff, the keel-moulding frequently occurs. 
 In these points, and in a very distinctive character of 
 foliage, the Transitional architecture of St. David's 
 (and especially that of the transepts) resembles that of 
 Wells Cathedral, and of some parts of Somersetshire. 
 This resemblance, as occurring at so early a period, 
 was first pointed out by Mr. Freeman ; and Mr. G. G. 
 Scott has also remarked the similarity of the decorative 
 foliage in the South Welsh Cathedrals, and some of the 
 
 d Jones and Freeman, p. G5. 
 
156 
 
 greater Churches in Somersetshire. 6 It would seem, 
 therefore, that " the influence of Bristol and Somerset- 
 shire models, which has been so often pointed out as 
 having so great an effect upon the architecture of South 
 Wales during the Perpendicular age, had commenced 
 even at this early period." 
 
 For the monuments in the transepts see § xvi. 
 
 XV. It has already been said that when the north 
 transept was rebuilt after 1220, a chapel, dedicated to 
 St. Thomas the Martyr, was added on the east side. 
 The year 1220, in which the tower fell, was also that 
 in which the body of the martyred Archbishop was 
 translated from its resting-place in the crypt of Canter- 
 bury Cathedral to the choir above ; and St. David's, 
 anxious, like many others of the greater churches, to 
 pay due honour to the new saint, seized the oppor- 
 tunity for constructing a chapel to be dedicated in his 
 name. 
 
 This chapel remained, to all appearance, unaltered 
 until the year 1329, when Sir Eichard Symonds 
 granted his manor of St. Dogmell to find two chap- 
 
 e Freeman's ' Arch, of LlandafT,' p. 28 ; Jones and Freeman's 
 St. David's,' p. 64. To the latter reference is appended the 
 following extract of a letter from Mr. G. G. Scott : — " I think I 
 mentioned to you that I had noticed a very curious similarity 
 in the character of the Early English foliage at Chepstow 
 Castle, which borders on Decorated, and Llandaff, which is 
 earlyish Lancet. At St. David's I find the very same pecu- 
 liarities in semi-Norman work. I have seen them only in two 
 other places, Glastonbury and Wells." The very peculiar 
 Early English of Wells is no doubt due to the development of a 
 local style. 
 
ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE VII. 
 
 ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. PISCINA IN CHAPTER HOUSE. 
 
lains who should say mass daily for his own soul and 
 that of his wife at the altar of St. Thomas the Martyr. 
 In connection, probably, with this grant the building 
 was entirely remodelled. It received a Decorated stone 
 vault, and two stages were added above it, the lower 
 serving as the Chapter-house, the upper as the Trea- 
 sury. The whole of this mass of building has been 
 modernized, and the windows have either been blocked 
 or destroyed, " though happily," says Mr. Scott, " there 
 remains a clue to their restoration." "They were," 
 he adds, " charmingly designed," and seem to have 
 been of a form intermediate between Geometrical and 
 Flowing. All this part of the church will shortly, it 
 may be hoped, be placed in thorough repair. It is 
 now (1871) hardly safe. 
 
 The Chapel of St. Thomas, although it projects con- 
 siderably eastward of the transept, was not united with 
 the wall of the presbytery aisle, but stands off from 
 it at a considerable angle. The reason is not evident, 
 since the space between the walls of the two buildings 
 is little more than a narrow slype, and the Chapel is 
 not, like the Lady-chapel at Ely, attached merely to the 
 angle of the transept. The external appearance of 
 the whole mass of building overtopping the transept 
 is very remarkable (see § xxn.). St. Thomas's Chapel 
 itself, which has long served as Chapter-house, 
 Library, and Vestry, retains on the south side a very 
 beautiful piscina of purely Early English character, 
 but, no doubt, part of the original work (Plate VII. ). 
 It consists of two pointed arches, with trefoiled heads, 
 
158 St. jtetrifc's Catfeebral. 
 
 contained within a squared heading, and resting on 
 shafts of which that in the centre has a foliaged capital. 
 The spandrils between the arches are sculptured with 
 very rich foliage, and in one is a combat between a man 
 and a monster who is in the act of devouring another 
 man. The work is Early English, without a tinge of 
 Norman, and proves that the rebuilders of 1220 only 
 used Transitional details in other parts of the church 
 from a desire to assimilate their work with that of 
 de Leia. 
 
 The Decorated vault of this Chapel is (except that 
 of the South Porch) the only one in the church which 
 can ever have been completed. It rises from octagonal 
 shafts, with enriched capitals. The bosses are carved. 
 On one keystone is the head of our Lord, and on 
 another our Lord surrounded by censing angels. 
 
 The upper story, which was the original Chapter- 
 house, and was, until lately, used as the Grammar- 
 school, has a Decorated fire-place in the west wall, and 
 on either side a bracket, which seems to be Early 
 English. Such a position for a Chapter-house is at 
 least most rare. The present ceiling is modern, and cuts 
 into the window of the third stage, which lighted the 
 treasury. In connection with the Chapter-house is an 
 ancient garde-robe. 
 
 It is quite uncertain whether the original Chapel 
 of St. Thomas supported any upper story. At any 
 rate, the walls, as they now exist, must date from the 
 fourteenth century, when the whole of this mass of 
 building was reconstructed, and the upper portions 
 
8T{je |looJr Smen. 159 
 
 were then possibly added. The ancient approach to 
 the Chapter-house was by a staircase opening from the 
 north aisle of the presbytery. This was for a time 
 blocked ; and the old Chapter-house, used as the 
 Grammar-school, was reached by an exterior stair at 
 the south-east angle of St. Thomas's Chapel. This 
 has been removed, the ancient staircase restored, and 
 the entrance from the aisle re-opened. 
 
 XVI. We come, at last, to the massive and elaborate 
 rood screen (Plate VIII.), separating the nave from the 
 choir. This, as has been said, is, as it now appears, 
 the work of Bishop Gower (1328-1347), who seems to 
 have wrought into it portions of a somewhat earlier 
 structure. The rood screen may be regarded as com- 
 pleting the series of Decorated renovations which 
 Bishop Gower carried throughout the Cathedral. One 
 of its recesses was arranged for his own tomb, in 
 which he was accordingly buried. 
 
 The rood screen projects into the nave for about 
 half a bay in a very unusual manner. It stands on a 
 platform filling the remainder of the bay, and reached 
 from the nave by an ascent of three steps; this is 
 generally known as the dais. f A vaulted entrance, of 
 two bays, leads through the centre of the screen into 
 the choir. On the** south side of the western bay 
 (which alone projects into the nave) are two compart- 
 ments containing tombs. On the north is a com- 
 partment with a tomb, and beyond again a turret 
 staircase leading to the actual rood-loft. The back 
 
 f Or, as it is here calle' 1 the " dice." 
 
160 §1. $*bW* tffitytbral. 
 
 of the screen, between the two western piers of the 
 tower, was, until recently, formed by a wall of ap- 
 parently solid masonry, pierced in the centre by a 
 rude arch. This arch now forms the inner bay of the 
 entrance. It had always been considered that this 
 massive wall was part of Gower's work, and that it 
 had been designed for the purpose of strengthening 
 the tower piers ; but during Mr. Scott's operations it 
 became necessary to remove the ends of the rood 
 screen, and it was then discovered that the back of 
 the screen had at first been hollow, with an open space 
 between the lower portion of the tower piers and the 
 inner bay of the entrance leading to the choir. The 
 wall, therefore, after the tower had been placed in 
 a state of safety, was removed altogether; and on 
 searching its contents the remains were found of the 
 original inner bay of the entrance and of side doorways 
 opening into the hollow spaces. The first design was 
 accordingly restored, the recovered portions being 
 used so far as they would go. Instead of a " rough 
 and uncouth archway," the inner bay of entrance is 
 now a richly groined space, resembling, though with 
 varied details, the bay opening to the dais. g 
 
 The time when the hollow spaces were filled up 
 and the great wall constructed is tolerably certain. 
 The 6 Computus ' of the year 1492 contains an entry 
 which records the payment of 100 shillings for mate- 
 's " This beautiful addition to the entrance of the choir was 
 wholly beyond anything I had anticipated." — Second Report, 
 1869, of G. G. Scott, p. 24. 
 
Stnuturc of % |loob §btxtm* 161 
 
 rials for a wall which appears to bo this one. 11 - There 
 can be no doubt, at any rate, that the insecurity of the 
 western tower arch rendered necessary this massive 
 backing of the rood screen. 
 
 There is considerable want of uniformity in the 
 western face of the screen. The central and two 
 southern compartments agree closely, and seem to be 
 of one period. The northern side differs, but the 
 difference in time cannot be great. It seems probable 
 that the whole is Gower's work, that some change of 
 plan occurred during the building, and that in the 
 northern side of the screen, which is the earlier, some 
 portions of a former structure were built up. 
 
 The arch of entrance is enriched with the four- 
 leaved flower, and the jamb with a vine-leaf moulding, 
 both strongly characteristic of Gower's Decorated. 
 In this first bay are two steps ; in the second are five ; 
 thus altogether raising the choir to a considerable 
 height above the nave. On either side of the first bay 
 an iron grille separates the entrance from the side com- 
 partments. In the second bay, an arch opens on either 
 side into the hollow space recently cleared, within 
 which are seen the bases and piers of the great western 
 tower arch. On the west side of each of these spaces is 
 a square recess or aumbrie. The floor of the entrance 
 is tiled, and between the bays, axe light iron gates, 
 placed here in 1847. On the south side of the screen 
 the first compartment has (toward the nave) a square- 
 headed opening, filled with ogee tracery, and having 
 h Jones and Freeman, p. 83. 
 
 If 
 
162 ftt. JteHVs ffal^jribrnl. 
 
 above it a tall shallow niclie with a bracket : the bay 
 south of this has a fine open foliated arch, with heads 
 at the points of foliation. The bays are divided from 
 east to west by a " fenestriform aperture of three 
 lights, with convergent tracery in the head." Above 
 this part of the screen is an enriched cornice. 
 
 On the north side, the first bay, in which is a 
 tomb, is not open at the west, like those opposite. 
 This north front consists, below, of a blind wall, 
 above which is an arcade of three arches, carried on 
 detached shafts, which rest on a corbel table, with 
 heads in mail-armour of the thirteenth century. The 
 shaft-capitals, especially those at the ends, which 
 form grotesque heads, are singular, and should be 
 noticed. Above the arcade is a cornice resembling 
 that on the south side of the screen. It is probable 
 that an altar stood in front of this division, but the 
 whole work has certainly been much changed, and 
 the arcade carried by the detached shafts is modern. 
 Unless the corbel heads are, like the Transitional 
 work Gf the presbytery, reflections of earlier designs, 
 it would seem that Bishop Gower must have here 
 used up portions of an older screen. At an angle 
 with the front of the screen is a doorway, having 
 a semi-octagcnal head, cinque-foiled. This is, no 
 doubt, Gower's work. It opens to the stair leading 
 to the rood-loft. From this stair the opening lately 
 cleared at the back of the screen is well seen, and the 
 capitals of the western tower piers may be examined 
 close at hand. The north-west angle of the screen is 
 
&omb$ mtir ^oxxmmxxis. 163 
 
 flanked by double buttresses — one solid, the other of 
 open work. 
 
 Along the whole length of the screen runs a pro- 
 jecting cornice of oak; this was added in 1847, but 
 has received some alteration during the present (1871) 
 restoration. A part of it is ancient, " and consists of 
 a series of small arches filled with Late Perpendicular 
 tracery, and having between them the springers of 
 vaulting either cut away or never finished." This 
 groining has now been completed, and finished on the 
 top with a cornice of carved oak. The work, however, 
 was not originally intended for the rood-loft, and it 
 seems to have formed some part of stall canopies 
 removed here, most likely, after the old rood-loft was 
 taken down in 1571. The whole now forms a pro- 
 jecting canopy to the stone screen. 
 
 The screen of de Leia's Cathedral extended between 
 the tower piers, and did not project into the nave. In 
 the nave, the bases of the eastern responds are elevated 
 above those of the nave piers, showing the position of 
 the earlier screen and indicating that there was a plat- 
 form before it. 
 
 For the tombs and monuments in the screen com- 
 partments, see the following section, (§ xvn.). 
 
 XVII. Beginning with the presbytery, and proceed- 
 ing through the aisles, the transepts, and the nave, the 
 principal monuments in the Cathedral are as follows. 
 
 The most important and interesting memorial in 
 the presbytery is, of course, the remaining portion of 
 the Shrine of St. David. This is only the base which 
 
 M 2 
 
164 Si. gabib's «a%bral. 
 
 supported the moveable shrine or feretrum; but it is 
 one of the very few fragments of ancient shrines which 
 remain in this country, and is a relic of considerable 
 interest and importance. It occupies the third bay 
 from the east on the north side of the presbytery, — an 
 unusual position for a great shrine, which (like that 
 of the Confessor at Westminster, and of St. Thomas at 
 Canterbury) was generally placed at the back of the 
 high altar, with a sufficient space round it to admit of 
 the circulation of pilgrims. But in this respect, as in 
 some others, the Welsh Church seems to have retained 
 an ancient usage. The tombs in which St. Teilo and 
 St. Dubricius rested in Llandaff Cathedral, and which 
 were regarded in the light of shrines, were placed, 
 like this shrine of St. David, under the arches of the 
 j)resbytery, on either side of the high altar. 1 
 
 The base of the shrine, as it now exists, has cer- 
 tainly been altered at different periods ; but we are 
 told that in 1275 the construction of a new shrine was 
 begun by Bishop Bichard de Carew, and the greater 
 part of the existing structure may very well be of that 
 date. The base of this structure extends from pier to 
 pier (Plate IX.). On it are three low pointed arches 
 (about 1 toot in height), with deep quatrefoils in the 
 spandrils. The arches open to recesses about 1 foot 
 deep, backed with stone. The outer quatrefoils are now 
 closed with stone ; the inner have small openings wide 
 
 5 The shrine of St. Ninian at Whitherne, in Galloway, 
 occupies precisely the same position. There, too, an ancient 
 British custom may have been retained. 
 
ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE IX. 
 
 .ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. ST. DAVID'S SHRINE 
 
ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL, 
 
 PLATE X. 
 
 ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. ST. DAVID'S SHRINE. 
 BACK VIEW. 
 
Z\t %\xmz of St gabiir. 165 
 
 enough to admit a hand, and communicate with small 
 lockers at the back, which served, no doubt, as recep- 
 tacles for offerings. On the arches rests the flat top of 
 the base, now formed of many stones, with a narrow 
 moulding round the edge ; this is backed by a triplet of 
 arches, with a solid wall behind them. The shafts 
 of these arches are modern ; the capitals are of Early 
 English character, as are the heads at the angles, — 
 those of a priest, and of a youthful personage wearing 
 a coronet. Above the arches is a crocketed hood- 
 moulding, and a square label running from pier to pier. 
 These are Perpendicular additions. The triplet of 
 arches formerly contained wall-paintings : in the centre 
 was St. David, on his right-hand St. Patrick, on his 
 left St. Denis. These were remaining .in the time of 
 Elizabeth, but all traces of them have now disappeared. 1 " 
 The whole structure was surmounted by a wooden 
 canopy, " a fair arch of timber-work painted," the 
 marks of which may be seen in the capitals of the piers. 
 
 The back of the shrine seems to be imperfect (Plate 
 X.). It projects slightly into the aisle, and is now a 
 flat wall, the foot of which ranges with the bases of the 
 clustered shafts set against the piers. At the base are 
 three round-headed arches, that in the centre being 
 larger than the others. Above are three quatrcfoils, 
 now closed, but once, perhaps, opening to lockers ; and 
 between them rise three plain squared niches, now 
 quite closed. It is said that there were, very recently, 
 stones remaining in the j^avement on this side of the 
 k Browne Willis is the authority for these statements. 
 
166 SJi $ttitfi ffia%fcaL 
 
 shrine which had been indented by the knees of the 
 long succession of pilgrims. 
 
 The top of the base, which supported the actual 
 shrine, is at present 3 feet from the ground. It is 
 difficult to believe that it is the original. It is formed 
 of many stones, and, although the moulding is carried 
 quite round, one of the stones has certainly been moved 
 inward. It is probable that the structure has suffered 
 in the various changes of the church, and especially 
 from the walling up of the presbytery arcade after the 
 ruin of the aisle roofs. 
 
 St. David, like others of the Welsh saints, was buried 
 in his own church ; and, in the same tomb according to 
 his legend, was interred St. Justinian, his contempo- 
 rary and confessor (see Part II.). At what time the 
 relics of the great patron of Wales were first trans- 
 lated and placed in a portable shrine is unknown ; but 
 such a shrine certainly existed in the year 1086, when 
 it was stolen from the church, carried out of the 
 " dinas," or city, and plundered of its treasures. 1 A 
 new shrine was made, as we have seen, by Bishop 
 de Carew in 1275. With this feretrum, or portable 
 shrine, containing the relics, the burgesses of St. David's 
 were bound to follow the Bishop, in time of war, for 
 one day's journey in either direction." 1 It was, per- 
 
 1 A.D. 1086. " Scrinium sancti David de ecclesia sua furatur, 
 et juxta civitatem ex toto spoliatur."' (Ann. Meneo. ap. Wharton, 
 Ang. Sac. ii. 649.) The relics were either recovered, or were 
 not carried from the church by the thieves. 
 
 m " Item dicunt juratores .... quod tempore guerrse sequi 
 debent Dnm Epm cum Feretro B. David, et cum reliquiis ex 
 
pilgrims to tljc Sbfyxim. 167 
 
 haps, of no great dimensions, but it must have been, 
 like other shrines, richly gilt, jewelled, and enamelled ; 
 and it is somewhat remarkable that we haye no account 
 whatever of its removal in the sixteenth century, or 
 of its subsequent fate. Some light may, perhaps, be 
 thrown on the fate of the relics themselves by a dis- 
 covery made during the present restoration at the 
 back of the high altar (see post, § xviii.). The shrine 
 was sought in pilgrimage not only by all true Welsh- 
 men, but by persons from all parts of Great Britain 
 and of Ireland, and it may well have formed a certain 
 bond of connection between the conquerors and the 
 conquered of Wales, — Englishmen and Welshmen. 
 Judging from the number of Edwardian coins found 
 in and about St. David's, it seems that the period 
 during which the shrine attained its greatest celebrity 
 and attracted the greatest number of pilgrims was the 
 fourteenth century, when Bishop Gower remodelled 
 the Cathedral and built his magnificent palace, — a 
 hostelry in which pilgrims of rank were no doubt, 
 lodged. 
 
 Among royal pilgrims to St. David's were — William 
 the Conqueror in 1081, the year in which he " subdued 
 Wales;"" Henry II., in 1171, and again in 1172, on 
 his way to, and on his return from, Ireland. On the 
 former occasion the King made an offering of two 
 
 utraque parte, ita quod ilia nocte redire possint domi." From 
 an Extent of the Bishop's land made in 1326. (Jones ;ni<l 
 Freeman, p. 104, note.) 
 
 n Ann. de Winton. The Welsh annals make the year 107i>, 
 but there can be no doubt as to the true date. 
 
168 j$t ftubWs fa%bnd, 
 
 velvet copes, " intended for tlie singers in serving God 
 and St. David, and he also offered a handful of silver, 
 about ten shillings ;" ° and it was while waiting here 
 for a fair wind that Henry is said to have learned 
 from a bard, who sang before him, the place of King 
 Arthur's burial in the Isle of Avalon. In 1284, Ed- 
 ward I. and Queen Eleanor came in pilgrimage to 
 St. David's. 13 This is the last * royal visit recorded. 
 (For all that is known of St. David himself, see 
 Part II.). 
 
 Although not in the presbytery, it will be well to 
 mention here what appears to have been the Shrine 
 of St. Caradoc, — a structure somewhat resembling what 
 remains of the Shrine of St. David. This is on the 
 south side of the north transept, not very far removed 
 from the great shrine, though, of course, in a less 
 honourable position. The tomb or shrine of Caradoc 
 consists of a round arch, beneath which is a flat table, 
 supported in front by a low wall, in which are two 
 pointed arches, and between them two quatrefoils, 
 chamfered inwards. Into these quatrefoils the hand 
 can be inserted. Above the arch is a projecting 
 fragment of wall, in which are two round holes 
 set in squares, possibly air-holes. St. Caradoc, at 
 first in the service of Khys ap Tewdwr, Prince of 
 South Wales, was afterwards ordained, served suc- 
 cessively in the churches of Llandaff and St. David's, 
 and finally lived a monastic life at St. Ishmael's, in 
 
 " Brut y Tywysogion, sub anuis. Haddan and Stubbs, i. 377. 
 p ' Annales Cambrise/ in ann. 1284. 
 
Sifrrke td Si. (Karabot. 169 
 
 Pembrokeshire. He died in 1124, and was canonized 
 by Innocent III. at the instance of the famous Giraldus, 
 Archdeacon of Brecknock. Caradoc, it is expressly 
 stated, was buried in this transept (specially dedicated 
 to St. Andrew), near the altar of St. Stephen, q and, 
 there can be no doubt that this is his tomb. 
 
 It was not usual, in earlier times, to allow that 
 any interment should be made in the immediate 
 neighbourhood of a great shrine. But this rule was at 
 last broken. The Black Prince at Canterbury, and 
 the magnificent prelate, Anthony Bek, at Durham, 
 were the first who were laid near the shrines of St. 
 Thomas and St. Cuthbert. The most conspicuous 
 place in the presbytery of St. David's is occupied by 
 the tomb of Edmund Tudor, Earl of Eichmond, son of 
 Owen Tudor and Queen Catherine of Yalois (widow of 
 Henry V.), and father of King Henry VII. The Earl, 
 however, was not at first buried here. He died in 
 1456, and was then buried in the Church of the Grey 
 Friars at Caermarthen. At the Dissolution his remains 
 were brought to St. David's together with" the altar 
 tomb which had been set up at Caermarthen in his son's 
 reign. The tomb, therefore, was not placed where it 
 now stands until after the shrine of St. David had 
 been removed. It is in the centre of the presbytery, 
 immediately in front of the entrance through the par- 
 
 q " Et sic Meneviam corpus allatum crebra miracula tarn prse- 
 sentium quam sequentium quoque coruacatione, in ecclesiam 
 Sancti Andrea? Sanctique David ala sinistra juxta altare sancti 
 protomartyris Stephani, debita est oelebritate tuniulatum." 
 Giraldus, It in. Cambriae. 
 
170 
 
 St. gabib's «a%irnxL 
 
 close, from the choir. The altar tomb is of Purbeck 
 marble, having side panels ornamented with small shal- 
 low quatrefoils, in a kind of reticulation. Each panel 
 had a shield of arms in the centre ; but all have dis- 
 appeared, together with the brass on the top of the 
 tomb, shields at the corners, an inscription at the feet of 
 the figure, and others on the verge and at the end. The 
 monument, which can never have been of great magni- 
 ficence, and is now much shattered, is in striking con- 
 trast with the superb chapel and stately tomb erected 
 by the Earl's royal son for his own resting-place/ 
 
 r The inscriptions on the verge and (probably) at the foot of 
 the tomb, are given by Browne Willis, and more accurately by 
 Jones and Freeman. That on the verge ran : — 
 
 " Under this marble stone here enclos'd, resteth the Bones of 
 that noble Lord Edmond Earl of Bichmond, Father and Brother 
 to Kings, the which departed out of this World in the year of 
 Our Lord God, a thousand four hundred fifty and six, the first 
 day of the month of November ; on whose Soul, Almighty Jesu 
 have Mercy. Amen." 
 
 That at the foot was in verse : — 
 
 " Heu ! Kegum Genitor et Frater, splendidus Heros 
 Omnis quo micuit Kegia Virtus, obit. 
 Herculeus Comes ille tuus Bichmondia Duxque 
 
 Conditur Edmundus his modo Marmoribus. 
 Qui Begni clypeus, Comitum flos, malleus hostis, 
 
 Vitse dexteritas, Pacis Amator erat. 
 Hie meditare vians te semper vivere posse ? 
 
 Non morieris homo ? Nonne miselle vides 
 Caesar quern tremeret armis, nec vinceret Hector 
 
 Ipsa devictum morte ruisse virum ? 
 Cede metrum precibus : det Begum Conditor Almus 
 Ejus spiritui lucida regna poli." 
 Before the late restoration, some broken tiles between St. 
 David's shrine and the Earl of Bichmond' s tomb were pointed 
 out as footprints of Cromwell's horse. 
 
On the south side of the presbytery, in the third bay 
 from the east, are effigies of two Bishops, placed side by 
 side, but with sufficient space between them to allow 
 of a pierced screen-work, which will probably be con- 
 structed so as to separate this bay of the presbytery 
 from its aisle. The effigy on the north side — within 
 the presbytery — is that of Bishop Anselm le Gras 
 (1231-1247). He is in Eucharistic vestments, with 
 a rich mitre. The head of his pastoral staff has 
 graceful foliage, and the point pierces one of two dogs, 
 on which the feet of the figure are resting. The head 
 is placed on a plain roundel, slightly raised. Angels 
 support a trefoiled canopy, on which are the words, 
 " Petra (sic) precor die sic Anselmus Episcopus est 
 hie." 
 
 The effigy on the south side (in the aisle) is of much 
 later date, and very much worn. The Bishop is in 
 Eucharistic vestments. The effigy has been assigned 
 to Bishop Gervase (1215-1229), the immediate prede- 
 cessor of Anselm, but is certainly the work of a much 
 later period. 
 
 On the north side of the presbytery, in the eastern- 
 most bay, is the altar tomb with effigy of Thomas 
 Lloyd, treasurer of the Cathedral, who died in 1612. 
 An inscription records that the monument was placed 
 here by his son Marmaduke, " Jurisconsultus et Medii 
 Templi socius." 
 
 In the north choir aisle, besides the back of St. 
 David's shrine, already described, there is only one 
 monument to be noticed. In the two easternmost bays, 
 
172 %t gafrfo's Ca%bral. 
 
 at the back of the wall dividing the presbytery from 
 the aisle, are canopied recesses recently restored, but 
 apparently of the Early Decorated period, and more 
 ancient than the remodelling of the aisle by Bishop 
 Grower. The easternmost of these recesses is empty ; 
 but both are said to have contained effigies, and that in 
 the western one, a priest with a lion at his feet, repre- 
 sented, it is traditionally asserted, Maredudd, Arch- 
 deacon of Cardigan, a son of the Lord Ehys, who died in 
 1228, and was buried here, near his father. This effigy 
 has altogether disappeared, and the recess (see Plate X.) 
 now contains (placed there since the restoration of the 
 presbytery) an effigy of a knight in the armour of 
 the latter half of the fourteenth century. The head 
 reclines on a helmet bearing the crest, " On a chapeau 
 a lion sejant." The body is covered by a jupon. The 
 legs are in complete mail-armour. The feet rest on a 
 lion, and on the jupon are the arms — a lion rampant, 
 within a bordure engrailed, with a label of three points 
 as a difference. This figure agrees precisely with one 
 placed immediately opposite to it in the south aisle, 
 except that the shield of that has no difference. The 
 effigies are in hard oolite. Whom these effigies were 
 intended to represent is not quite certain ; but there 
 was an old tradition at St. David's that they marked 
 the tombs of Ehys ap Gruffydd, commonly called the 
 Lord Ehys, and of his son Ehys Gryg. These alone 
 of the South Welsh princes were buried at St. David's ; 
 but the first died in 1196, and the second in 1233. The 
 effigies, therefore, if they represent them, must have 
 
dffigus m % Souilj Cljoir gusk 173 
 
 been placed here nearly two centuries later. The 
 historians of St. David's suggest with great probability 
 that they were erected by the family of Talbot, which, 
 toward the end of the fourteenth century, was of great 
 power and importance on the Welsh marches. An an- 
 cestor of the Talbots is said to have married Gwenllian, 
 daughter of Khys ap Gruffydd ; and from that date it 
 is asserted that his descendants assumed the arms of 
 the Welsh princes — a lion rampant, with a bordure 
 engrailed. However that may be, it is certain that the 
 Talbots bore, and still bear, these arms ; and that the 
 belief in their descent from the princes of South Wales 
 may have induced them to erect these memorials. A 
 j)lace of interment so near the shrine would have been 
 assigned to none but personages of the highest dignity 
 — a fact which greatly supports the tradition of the 
 Cathedral. Until the late restoration, these effigies 
 were in the presbytery, but in the same bays as they 
 now occupy in the aisles. 
 
 In the south clioir aisle the monuments are : — 
 In the easternmost bay on the north side, under the 
 low presbytery wall, a priest in Eucharistic vestments, 
 holding the Host (?) in his joined hands. This effigy 
 is much worn, and has been assigned in error to 
 Giraldus Cambrensis. It is of far later date, and rests 
 on a base of Decorated character, which has (1870) 
 been restored. Below it is the knightly effigy, re- 
 sembling that in the north arch, already described. 
 
 Under the easternmost window in this aisle is the 
 effigy of a priest, vested, with raised hands. It is 
 
174 St. Jabib'g «*%bral. 
 
 placed within a Decorated recess with a foliated canopy, 
 " remarkable as possessing the only instance of ball- 
 flower which occurs in the church, with the exception 
 of that which appears in the Decorated stage of the 
 tower." 9 In front of the tomb are foliated panels with 
 shields, resembling in some degree those on the base 
 of the tomb opposite. The canopy is cut through by 
 Bishop Gower's string course, indicating that the tomb 
 was in place when the walls were raised. 
 
 In the next bay is an incised slab, bearing a very 
 graceful cross with floriated ornaments in relief. On 
 the chamfered edge is the inscription, in Lombardic 
 letters : — 
 
 u Silvester medicus jacet hie ejus [que] ruina 
 Monstrat quod morti non obsistit niedicina." 
 
 In the westernmost bay is placed the much worn 
 figure of an ecclesiastic, holding a book in the right 
 hand. The original site of this monument is uncer- 
 tain, and until lately it was placed on the top of the 
 tomb slab of the physician Silvester. It appears, how- 
 ever, that it belonged to this aisle. 
 
 In the South Transept, near the arch opening to the 
 nave, is an incised slab, with a floriated cross, and the 
 head of an ecclesiastic appearing above it through an 
 opening in the stone. In the North Transept, west of 
 the tomb of St. Caradoc, already described, is the 
 figure of a priest under a Decorated canopy. 
 
 There are three efligies in compartments of the rood 
 screen. On the south side, the compartment adjoining 
 s Jones and Freeman, p. 122. 
 
Cffigies mxbzx tljje %oxjit Saceit. 175 
 
 the entrance to the choir contains the figure of a priest 
 in Eucharistic vestments, the head resting on a cushion 
 supported by angels, the feet on a lion. The com- 
 partment beyond it is the resting-place of Bishop 
 Gower (died 1347), the most distinguished and inde- 
 fatigable of later benefactors to the Cathedral. The 
 figure is in Eucharistic vestments, with mitre and 
 pastoral staff. At the feet is a lion. The whole is 
 much mutilated. In the south side of the altar tomb 
 are eight figures of apostles. Bishop Gower is said to 
 have been buried " in the chapel of St. John, which he 
 built for his sepulture, under the rood-loft." ' It is 
 possible that the altar of St. John stood at the east end 
 of this compartment, between it and the door opening 
 to the transept. 
 
 On the north side of the choir entrance is the effigy 
 of an ecclesiastic precisely resembling that opposite, 
 but having a dog instead of a lion at the feet. The 
 vaulting of this compartment retains much cf its 
 ancient painting. The emblems of the four Evan- 
 gelists, and some rich leaf-work, are very perfect, and 
 are no doubt of Gower's time. At the east and west 
 ends of the compartment are traces of figures, but too 
 much decayed to be intelligible. Attempts have been 
 made to assign the effigies of the two priests to various 
 persons ; but there is no authority for doing so, beyond 
 a tradition preserved by Browne Willis, that they re- 
 
 1 Browne Willis ; and so Leland, Collect, ii. 322. i Henricus 
 Gower in Capella S. Joannis.' (Quoted by Jones and Freeman, 
 p. 83.) 
 
176 
 
 presented a treasurer and a chancellor. It is possible 
 that two such dignitaries, associated with Gower, may 
 have been buried here. u 
 
 In the South Aisle of the Nave, under the easternmost 
 window, is a Decorated recess, " with a canopy of very 
 peculiar form, which may be described as a semi- 
 octagon with concave sides, the apex and the two 
 adjoining angles being adorned with finials radiating 
 from the centre. It resembles, to a certain extent, the 
 form recurring so frequently in the tombs of Bristol 
 Cathedral ; and is clearly a development of the idea 
 which produced the semi-octagonal doorways in the 
 rood screen and the palace. Perhaps we may regard 
 it as one instance among many of the influence of 
 
 u The excavations for the foundations of the tower piers, and 
 for those of the timber shoring, unfortunately rendered it neces- 
 sary to disturb the tombs in the choir screen, and some of those 
 adjoining. Every care was taken in the removal and replacing 
 of the remains. Before disturbing the graves, Mr. Clear, who 
 was then Clerk of the Works, "gave formal notice to the 
 Cathedral authorities, and also to many of the leading inha- 
 bitants, and in their presence they were opened, with all con- 
 ceivable care, and the remains deposited in chests prepared for 
 the purpose, excepting only such more valuable accompani- 
 ments as crosiers, rings, chalices, &c, which were put in a 
 separate case, or taken care of by members of the Chapter. The 
 remains were screwed down in presence of the witnesses thus 
 summoned, and never again opened till the works which neces- 
 sitated their removal were completed, when similar notices were 
 again sent out, and the remains carefully restored to their 
 places in the presence of those who assembled, and the tombs 
 made complete and finally closed." Second Keport (1869) on 
 St. David's Cathedral, by G. G. Scott. For a description of the 
 objects found in the tombs, and now preserved in the Chapter- 
 house, see post, § xxi. 
 
Oc p0tiwnmt of ^isljop glorgan. 177 
 
 Bristol upon the architecture of South Wales. A 
 canopy of a somewhat similar design occurs in a tomb 
 at Cheriton, or Stackpole Elidur, in Pembrokeshire." x 
 Beneath the canopy is the figure of a priest in Euchar- 
 istic vestments, lying on an altar tomb of plain ashlar. 
 The figure and tomb are of the same date as the 
 canopy ; but the tomb somewhat interferes with the de- 
 sign, and may therefore have been brought from else- 
 where. 
 
 In the Nave, before the dais, are two slabs, from 
 which brasses have been removed. They mark the 
 graves of William Wilcock (d. 1502) and Eichard 
 Eayader (d. cir. 1530), successively prebendaries of St. 
 Nicholas, and masters of St. Mary's College. 
 
 On the south side of the nave, in the second bay 
 from the east, is the monument of Bishop John Morgan 
 (1496-1504). It is an altar tomb, with an effigy of the 
 Bishop in chasuble, dalmatic, alb, stole, and maniple, 
 with mitre and pastoral staff. The hands have singular 
 gloves. On the north side of the tomb are six figures 
 of apostles. Those on the south have been cut away. 
 At the foot is sculptured the Resurrection of our Lord ; 
 at the head is a griffin, the bearing of Bishop Morgan, 
 and a shield inscribed with the letters " W. and I." in 
 a cypher. 7 The sculpture of this tomb is unusually 
 spirited and graceful, whilst its architectural details 
 
 x Jones and Freeman, p. 109. 
 
 y These initials have not been explained. There is. however, 
 no possible doubt as to the personage for whom this monument 
 was designed. 
 
 N 
 
178 St. §ubxV* Ca%boL 
 
 are poor and debased. It is " a striking commentary 
 on the state of the arts at that important period of 
 transition ; and it is extremely curious to observe the 
 corruptions of the latter art manifesting themselves in 
 tombs in the first instance. The monument of Henry 
 VII. in Westminster Abbey is of course a remarkable 
 case of the same kind." z 
 
 XVIII. We come now to the portion of the Cathedral 
 east of the presbytery, very peculiar in plan, and 
 rendered difficult of comprehension from the many 
 changes it has undergone, and from the state of ruin 
 to which it is now reduced. The whole is roofless, 
 except the central divisions — Bishop Vaughan's Chapel 
 and the vestibule of the Lady Chapel. These retain 
 their groined ceilings. The arrangement of all this 
 part of the Cathedral will best be understood by a 
 reference to the plan. The aisles of the presbytery are 
 carried eastward, but do not terminate exactly parallel 
 with each other, or in the same manner. Beyond them 
 projects the Lady Chapel. Between this and the 
 eastern wall of the presbytery are two spaces divided 
 by a solid wall, and forming the vestibule of the Lady 
 Chapel and the Chapel called Bishop Vaughan's. 
 These are entered from the aisles, north and south. 
 
 Bishop de Leia's church terminated, there can be 
 little doubt, at the existing east wall of the presbytery 
 and its aisles ; and when that church was reconstructed 
 after the fall of the tower, no attempt was made to 
 carry it farther to the east, or to add any eastern 
 * Jones and Freeman, p. 109. 
 
§i$|j0]j (Sober'* Qlttxutxanz. 179 
 
 cliapels. But it seems probable that, shortly before 
 the earthquake which greatly damaged the church in 
 the year 1248, the construction of a Lady Chapel, or at 
 least of a retrochoir with a space for altars, had been 
 begun, probably in connection with the foundation, by 
 Bishop Anselm, of a daily mass in honour of the 
 Blessed Virgin. The earthquake may have inter- 
 rupted this work, and apparently it was not continued 
 for some little time. The original design may have 
 been carried out at last, but there must have been 
 many changes in detail. 
 
 This design necessarily involved the construction of 
 the chapel aisles, which are in fact a continuation of 
 those of the presbytery, and are approached by arches 
 broken through what had been the eastern wall of de 
 Leia's church. These aisles were connected at their 
 eastern ends by a cross aisle, forming a sort of retro- 
 choir or ambulatory, entered north and south by a 
 couplet of arches, and having, so far as can be ascer- 
 tained, a shallow projection toward the east, with 
 sufficient space for at least one altar. All this work 
 was completed during the Early English period, though 
 the exact date remains uncertain. During the episco- 
 pate of Bishop Martyn (1290-1328) the Lady Chapel 
 was built, projecting eastward from the cross aisle, and 
 completing the present ground plan of the Cathedral. 
 
 Bishop Gower (1328-1347) altered the walls of the 
 aisles throughout the Cathedral. The north and east 
 walls of the North Chapel aisle were only raised, in 
 the same manner as most of the other walls in the 
 
180 gt gabiys <Ka%braL 
 
 church ; but the south and east walls of the South aisle 
 were rebuilt from the ground, and the aisle itself was 
 slightly extended eastward. This aisle is wider than 
 the north aisle opposite. The aisle of the presbytery, 
 west of it (§ xiii.), was certainly widened in the Early 
 English period, and was then perhaps made to agree 
 with the dimensions of the South (Early English) 
 Chapel aisle. If this was the case, Bishop Gower's 
 south wall was raised on the foundations of the Early 
 English one. 
 
 Bishop Gower made also considerable changes in the 
 Lady Chapel, in which (1334) he founded a chantry. 
 
 Throughout these changes, the space immediately at 
 the back of the high altar (now Bishop Vaughan's 
 Chapel) remained unappropriated, and was possibly 
 open to the sky. The cross aisle, or vestibule of the 
 Lady Chapel, was closed westward by a solid wall. 
 The space west of it may have been entered from the 
 aisles ; but its condition is uncertain, and all that is 
 clearly known is that as late as the time of Bishop 
 Yaughan himself it is described as "vilissimus sive 
 sordidissimus locus in tota ecclesia." It is possible that 
 this space had been allowed to remain open in order to 
 preserve the full effect of the lower range of windows 
 in the east wall of the presbytery. These may have 
 retained their glazing until Bishop Vaughan (1509- 
 1522) took possession of the " vilissimus locus," and 
 converted it into the beautiful chapel which bears his 
 name. He then blocked at the back the lower tier of 
 the presbytery windows, and constructed arches opening 
 
%oiIhtg of % fabg <%pxl. 181 
 
 into his Chapel north and south. These arches must 
 have been cut through a solid wall — in which, however, 
 there may have been smaller openings giving access to 
 the space which hitherto had been waste. 
 
 The Lady Chapel and its vestibule had been prepared 
 for vaulting in both Early English and Decorated 
 times ; but the vaults, as in the rest of the Cathedral, 
 had never been completed. They were now added by 
 Bishop Vaughan, who also made alterations in the roofs 
 and windows of this eastern part of the Church, on 
 which, as containing his own Chapel, he bestowed the 
 greater part of his attention. 
 
 The Lady Chapel and aisles were stripped of their 
 lead during the Civil War, and consequently soon fell 
 into ruin. The vault of the Lady Chapel fell about the 
 year 1775 ; and after that date some heavy buttresses 
 were built against the interior walls of both Chapel and 
 aisles, in order to prevent their further destruction. 
 These masses of modern masonry do not tend to make 
 the architectural history of this part of the church at 
 all clearer. They are themselves misleading ; and the 
 early work is so mixed and varied as to produce a 
 jumble of styles by no means easy to decipher or to 
 understand. It will therefore be better to describe 
 separately the remains of each architectural period. 
 
 XIX. (a) The evidence which renders it probable 
 that a Lady Chapel or retrochoir was begun shortly 
 before the earthquake of 1248, is to be found in the 
 couplet of Early English arches on the south side of 
 what is now the approach or vestibule to the existing 
 
182 %t #HMb's «a%i>ral 
 
 Lady Chapel. These arches differ from those which 
 correspond to them on the north side. The section of 
 the piers is not the same, and the capitals have a 
 minute nail-head-moulding, which is not found else- 
 where in the church. The arches are lower and wider 
 than those opposite ; and " the eastern respond of the 
 northern couplet bonds in with the masonry adjoining 
 it both to the east and south, that is, both with the 
 south wall of that part of the north aisle which stands 
 free, and with the transverse wall forming the west end 
 of the Lady Chapel. The northern couplet is palpably 
 of a piece with the latter wall, and with the two arches 
 in it. But the corresponding respond of the southern 
 couplet not only does not bond in with the wall east of 
 it, that is, the southern wall of the Lady Chapel, but 
 not even with the transverse wall containing the arches. 
 The inference from this is that the two couplets are of 
 different dates, the southern being the earlier, the 
 present western wall of the Lady Chapel being contem- 
 porary with the northern one and not with the southern. 
 This looks as if the work had been interrupted during 
 its progress, and was afterwards continued from sub- 
 stantially the same design." a 
 
 (b) Of the next period, still Early English, but some- 
 what later (circa 1248), during which the Lady Chapel 
 in its first form (as a cross aisle) and the chapel aisles 
 were built, the existing remains are — the lower part of 
 the wall of the north aisle, and the western wall of 
 what is now the ante-chapel. The aisle wall is Early 
 a Jones and Freeman, pp. 153-4. 
 
3$lag0tirg of tht Itabg Clrapd. 183 
 
 English as high as the string course ; above, it is Deco- 
 rated of Bishop Gower's time. Monuments of later date 
 (see § xx.) have been inserted in the Early English 
 portion. On the north side, fragments of round Early 
 English vaulting shafts appear below the Decorated 
 ones, which are octagonal. The vaulting arches are 
 nearly perfect on the other side, but there is no evidence 
 that the Early English or the Decorated vaulting was 
 ever completed. 
 
 (<?) To the third period, that of a transition from 
 Early English to Decorated, belongs the existing Lady 
 Chapel in its original form. The walls are of this date, 
 and throughout an attempt has evidently been made to 
 assimilate the architecture to the Early English of the 
 adjoining aisles. The capitals are very similar to those 
 in the north aisle. The Decorated string still sur- 
 rounds the whole interior (except where it is cut through 
 by monuments). Traces of the Decorated vaulting 
 system remain — the original shafts are preserved at the 
 four corners. The windows were small ; and in the 
 western bay, on the south side, one, although blocked, 
 remains perfect, with jamb, shaft, and capital. 
 
 It will be seen from the plan that the Lady Chapel 
 is not placed centrally, but that while the termination 
 of the south aisle abuts on its southern wall, the north 
 aisle is separated from the chapel by a space of blank 
 wall. The north aisle was evidently carried to its 
 present length by the original builders. Whether the 
 south aisle, which now projects farther eastward, was 
 lengthened by Bishop Gower, is somewhat uncertain 
 
184 ghMb's €nfytbxuU 
 
 but is very probable (see ante, § xviii.). These pecu- 
 liarities, together with the almost inexplicable changes 
 and patchings which appear at the entrance of the 
 Lady Chapel, are additional proofs of a change of plan, 
 and seem to indicate that Bishop Martyn found con- 
 siderable difficulty in adapting his Lady Chapel to the 
 smaller and less elaborate retrochoir with altars which 
 he found existing. The arches which now open to the 
 chapel from the vestibule do not by any means form a 
 suitable approach to it, b and the masonry of these 
 arches does not belong to that of the chapel itself. But 
 the difference in architectural detail is so slight that 
 the earlier retrochoir, with its aisles, cannot have been 
 long completed before Bishop Martyn's accession. 
 
 (d) To the fourth or Decorated period belong the 
 upper part of the north aisle ; the whole of the south 
 aisle ; the sedilia and some other insertions in the Lady 
 Chapel ; and some monuments. 
 
 Bishop Gower, to whom all this work is due, changed 
 altogether the system of vaulting which had been 
 designed for the Early English aisles. Each aisle had 
 at first five narrow bays, necessarily of no great height, 
 since the roof was a " lean-to," resting against the wall 
 of the central division. Three bays were now substi- 
 tuted for five ; and the walls were raised, so as to 
 admit of this change, and of the insertion of larger 
 windows. The Decorated vaulting shafts remain in 
 each aisle, as well as, in some places, the springers of 
 the intended vaulting. The windows in both aisles 
 b Jones and Freeman, p. 156. 
 
gisljop Wmqfem'u C|apeL 185 
 
 have either been blocked, or have completely lost their 
 tracery. The south aisle, of which the walls were at 
 this time built from the ground, shows the Decorated 
 design to far greater advantage than the north. " The 
 roof is indeed gone, the windows blocked, the whole 
 disfigured and confused by the great arched props which 
 have been found necessary to support the tottering walls 
 of the central space; still we have the well-moulded 
 strings, the delicate octagonal and clustered vaulting- 
 shafts, and above all, their beautiful flowered capitals." L ' 
 
 In the Lady Chapel the principal Decorated inser- 
 tions are the sedilia and two tomb recesses, which, as 
 appears probable, were monuments erected by Bishop 
 Gower to his predecessors, Bishops Beck and Martyn. 
 These are described post, (§ xx.). The sedilia in 
 the south wall are triple, and have rich canopies, which 
 suggested those above the niches on the north side of 
 the choir screen. Bishop Martyn's tomb, west of these 
 sedilia, is in fact a part of the same design. 
 
 (e) The work of the Perpendicular period, embracing 
 Bishop Vaughan's Chapel and the vault of the vestibule 
 to the Lady Chapel, remains more conrplete than any 
 of the earlier construction. The vaulted roof of the 
 Lady Chapel, which was of this date, and the work of 
 Bishop Vaughan, has perished ; and the large Perpen- 
 dicular windows, which were at this time inserted in 
 the same chapel, are now entirely built up. The Deco- 
 rated east window appears indeed to have been blocked 
 by Bishop Vaughan himself; with what object it is 
 c Jones and Freeman, p. 72. 
 
186 St. glafrito 
 
 difficult to understand, since no preparation seems to 
 have been made for any decoration of the internal blank 
 wall. 
 
 It may here be added that the awkward mass of 
 masonry raised against the west wall of the Chapel, and 
 partly blocking the arches of entrance, dates from the 
 beginning of the present century. But for this rough 
 buttress, the whole wall, and possibly the side walls of 
 the Chapel, would long since have fallen. 
 
 The vault of the vestibule to the Lady Chapel is 
 very plain and poor in detail. That of the Lady Chapel 
 itself was apparently not less beautiful and elaborate 
 than that which still remains in Bishop Yaughan's 
 Chapel. 
 
 This, which is also called the Chapel of the Holy 
 Trinity, was formed, as we have seen, by vaulting 
 over a space, which up to that time had been, to all 
 appearance, neglected and " sordid." Perpendicular 
 arches, of which the proportions and excellent mould- 
 ings deserve careful attention, were constructed in the 
 walls north and south, which hitherto seem to have 
 been blank. The lower part of these arches is crossed 
 by stone screens, in each of which is a doorway. Above 
 each arch is a clerestory window. The roof (Plate XL) 
 is of two main bays, with excellent fan tracery, re- 
 sembling in general character that of King's College 
 Chapel, or of the so-called " New Work," the rich 
 eastern transept of Peterborough Cathedral. The 
 roof rises from shafts, of which the central ones are 
 corbelled off, with figures of winged angels as the 
 
ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE XII. 
 
 ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. RECESS IN BISHOP VAUGHAN'S 
 
 CHAFED. 
 
Jpjeautg of % fMg Crinxtg CIjapcL 187 
 
 corbels. Against the east wall the base of the altar 
 remains, and on either side is a square-headed opening, 
 piercing the wall to the ante-chapel beyond. North 
 and south of these openings is a lofty and beautiful 
 niche, canopied and bracketed. In the west wall are 
 seen the mouldings (much shattered) of the two outer 
 windows of the range forming the lower tier in the 
 wall of the presbytery. These windows were blocked 
 by Bishop Yaughan. In the centre, below the place 
 of the central light, the traces of which were hidden 
 by the vaulting and the vaulting corbels, is a re- 
 markable arched recess (Plate XII.), which until quite 
 recently was blocked with masonry like the windows. 
 It was opened during the restoration of the east wall 
 of the presbytery, and a very interesting discovery 
 was then made — the discovery, as there seems strong 
 reason to believe, of the actual relics of St. David. 
 
 Traces of this recess were visible in the wall before 
 the late restoration ; and Messrs. Jones and Freeman 
 suggest that a doorway had formerly existed at the 
 back of the high altar. ' But this was not the case. 
 The recess had good mouldings, part of which (espe- 
 cially the projecting outer moulding) has been cut 
 away, so that, before it was opened, the character of 
 the arch was by no means clear. It is now seen that 
 it did not descend to the floor of Bishop Vaughan's 
 Chapel, but that it enclosed a recess, the bottom of 
 which is raised about 3 feet from the floor of the 
 chapel, and 1 foot 6 inches above the present altar 
 dais in the presbytery. This flooring of the recess is 
 
188 St. gtfft'g Ca%boL 
 
 of plain, rough stone, which passes under the arch 
 mouldings. The back is walled up, and has in 
 the centre a small squared stone, sculptured with a 
 circlet of enriched work, surrounding a cross with 
 equal arms, the interstices between which are pierced. 
 This is the cross which is seen in the presbytery (§ x.). 
 The arms are rubbed smooth as if with frequent hand- 
 ling. On either side of this central cross is a stone, 
 carved with crosses and circlets ; and above it is a 
 stone, curiously worked, and also bearing a cross. The 
 whole of this arrangement will best be understood by 
 a reference to the Plate (XII.). The central cross and 
 the sculptured stones are apparently of the same date 
 as the Transitional work of the nave. They should be 
 compared with the roundels and other designs in the 
 spandrils of the nave triforium arches. The back of 
 the recess is about the centre of the rubble wall, which 
 was probably part of de Leia's work, and remained 
 after the fall of the tower. 
 
 On opening this recess, it was found that the lower 
 part had been filled with human remains. The bones 
 were piled up nearly to the lower part of the central 
 cross, thus covering about half the depth of the recess. 
 It appeared that mortar in a liquid state had been 
 poured on those below, since they formed a complete 
 mass, with the mortar still adhering to them. The 
 upper part of the recess, above the bones, was filled 
 with rough walling stones, the wall with which the 
 recess was closed being of no great thickness. 
 
 The whole of this recess, in Mr. Scott's judgment, 
 
189 
 
 is Transitional, and of de Leia's time. But it is not 
 easy to understand for what purposes it was intended. 
 The pierced central cross may have served as a hagio- 
 scope ; although, as has been said, its arms are worn 
 smooth by frequent handling. We must believe that 
 it had from the beginning been set in the centre of 
 the rubble wall forming the lower part of de Leia's 
 east end ; and that there had always been an opening 
 through it to the vacant space which became Bishop 
 Vaughan's Chapel. d No trace of the recess appears on 
 the east wall of the presbytery, and, although Bishop 
 Vaughan may have turned it to account, it certainly 
 existed before the construction of his chapel. But 
 whatever purpose it may have been originally in- 
 tended to serve, it is impossible to doubt that the 
 bones which were found in it were placed there after 
 the religious changes of the sixteenth century. Had 
 such a recess been prepared for relics by Bishop 
 Vaughan, it would not of course have been walled 
 
 (1 It has indeed been suggested that the pierced cross formed 
 an opening to the shrine or reliquary of St. David, placed, as 
 was most usual with great shrines, at the back of the high 
 altar. To this the objections, apparently insurmountable, are 
 — first, that the shrine must have occupied the place of the 
 present recess, and thus have been actually in the waste space 
 — the "locus sordidissimus " — which in that case would surely 
 not have been neglected until the time of Bishop Vaughan ; 
 and next, that the constant tradition of St. David's has always 
 placed the shrine on the north side of the presbytery (see ante, 
 § xvii.). The discovery of this pierced cross and recess renders 
 it still more difficult to explain the early condition of the space 
 which Bishop Vaughan took for his chapel, or to account for its 
 neglected condition. 
 
190 St. grift'f «a%bral. 
 
 up, nor would the relics have been mixed with 
 mortar. No account exists of the manner in which the 
 relics of St. David and St. Caradoc were disposed of, 
 after they had been removed from their shrines ; and 
 it seems far from unreasonable to conclude that they 
 were placed — with a desire possibly to prevent their 
 desecration 6 — in this recess, which was partly filled 
 with mortar and then walled up. Any attempt to 
 explain the recess and its contents is full of difficulty, 
 but that which has been suggested is at least not im- 
 possible. It should be added that the bones taken from 
 the recess have been carefully preserved, and will not 
 be removed from the Cathedral. 
 
 Fragments of ancient crosses and tomb slabs, some 
 which may be of earlier date than the crosses in the 
 recess, now remain on the floor of the Chapel, and 
 deserve attention. 
 
 XX. The monuments in the eastern chaj^els are all 
 worn and shattered. Some are partly overgrown with 
 moss, the result of long exposure to the weather. 
 
 In the Lady Chapel, on the south side, west of the 
 sedilia, is the Decorated tomb which has already been 
 mentioned. The canopy is straight-sided, with a 
 cinque-foiled arch, rising from octagonal shafts. " The 
 canopy blocks an Early Decorated window, and cuts 
 a string just where it makes a step, and has in its turn 
 
 e Care seems to have been taken to prevent the desecration of 
 altar slabs removed from different parts of the Cathedral about 
 the same time as the relics were taken from the shrine. The 
 altar slabs were laid in the pavement near the high altar, where 
 they would be safe (see ante, § xii.). 
 
f ombz in % gtorfjr Cljapd giislc. 191 
 
 been made to carry the Perpendicular vaulting added 
 by Bishop Yaughan, its finial having for that purpose 
 been turned into a corbel." f The figure of a Bishop 
 formerly existed below the canopy ; but hardly a trace 
 now remains. The monument is no doubt the work of 
 Bishop Gower, and is said to mark the resting-place 
 of Bishop David Martyn, builder of the Lady Chapel. 
 It may have replaced a more simple structure. 
 
 Opposite, in the north wall, is a much defaced tomb, 
 which seems to have been of precisely similar cha- 
 racter. The effigy it once contained has altogether 
 disappeared ; and although it has been assigned to 
 Bishop Houghton (1362-1389) it is more probably 
 the tomb of Bishop Beck (1280-1293), the predecessor 
 of Martyn. It is no doubt Gower's work, like the 
 tomb opposite. 
 
 In this Chapel is also the tomb slab of an ecclesiastic, 
 the head of the figure alone appearing through a circle 
 at the top of the stone. It is utterly defaced. 
 
 In the North Chapel Aisle (at the east end of which 
 was St. Nicholas's Chapel), on the south side, east of the 
 screen opening to Bishop Vaughan's Chapel, a frag- 
 ment of a Decorated tomb canopy remains, the rest 
 of which has been cut away by the chapel arch. Its 
 existence seems to prove that the " waste place " now 
 occupied by the chapel must have been closed at the 
 sides by walls ; although there must surely have been 
 some door of entrance, however narrow. In the wall 
 adjoining the arch, is a stone sculptured with the 
 f Jones and Freeman, p. 121. 
 
192 %t. gift's «a%bral. 
 
 Crucifixion, St. Mary and St. John. This may have 
 belonged to the Decorated tomb. 
 
 Below is a low altar-tomb with a panelled arcade in 
 front, and on it the much shattered figure of a priest 
 in Eucharistic vestments. Above the panelling runs 
 an inscription : — 
 
 " Orate pro anima Johannis [Mot] nuper Archi . . . 
 
 This is the monument of John Hiot, Archdeacon of 
 St. David's, who died in 1419. 
 
 On the north side of the aisle, nearly opposite, 
 occupying what was once a wall recess, is the muti- 
 lated figure of a knight in chain-mail, perhaps dating 
 from the reign of Henry III. It is overgrown with 
 moss and wild plants. A chantry was founded in this 
 aisle at the beginning of the fourteenth century by 
 Sir John Wogan of Picton, Chief Justiciary of Ireland 
 under Edward I. ; and the effigy probably represents 
 a member of his family. 
 
 East of this is the effigy of a priest in Eucharistic 
 vestments, the feet resting on a dog. The canopy for 
 the head "forming a spherical triangle and adorned 
 with crockets," is unusual, but is found in the Decor- 
 ated tomb in the south presbytery aisle (the eastern- 
 most tomb in the south wall, see § xvn.), and also in 
 a tomb in the chancel of Carew Church, and in one at 
 Nangle, in Pembrokeshire. 55 The canopy of the recess 
 was once cinque-foiled, and has a peculiar leaf orna- 
 ment in the exterior moulding. The monument is 
 ascribed to one of the Wogan family. 
 
 g Jones and Freeman, p. 120. 
 
(Effigies in % South ^isle. 193 
 
 In the South Aisle (of which the east end formed the 
 Chapel of King Edward the Confessor), under the 
 south-east wall of Bishop Vaughan's Chapel, is the 
 shattered figure of a knight in armQur of the thirteenth 
 century. The lower part of the figure is cut off by 
 the modern prop by which the wall is buttressed. 
 
 Opposite is a Decorated tomb recess, with a cinque- 
 foiled arch. 
 
 In front of the site of the altar, in Bishop Vaughan's 
 Chapel, is a marble slab once covered with a brass 
 plate. The remains of fastenings exist. It marks the 
 tomb of the founder of the Chapel, buried, as was 
 usual, in the midst of his own work. Browne Willis 
 gives the following verses, which were engraven on the 
 brass, at the foot of the episcopal figure : — 
 
 " Prsesul Menevise Edwardus Vaughan hie jacet, et Lux 
 Ecclesise, et Patriae Fautor, Honorque Deuus. 
 
 Quinque talenta habuit Domini, et docte et sapienter 
 Et bene tractavit, fudit, et auxit ea. 
 
 Ergo Deus die Pontifk-i huic, Bone et euge Fidelis 
 Serve ! intra in Domini gaudia sunima tui." 
 
 XXI. Leaving the Cathedral by the western door 
 (which, together with the existing west front, has 
 already, § iv., been described), the south exterior (see 
 Frontispiece) of the church may first be noticed. The 
 south side of the nave is broken in the second bay ■ 
 from the west by a projecting porch. The aisle win- 
 dows, of which the tracery is Decorated, were renewed 
 in accordance with their original designs, by Butter- 
 field in 1849. For them, as for the windows of the 
 transept and of the choir aisle, the stone used is a 
 
 o 
 
194 gt. gafrii's Ca%brsL 
 
 yellowish oolite, contrasting well with the dark colour 
 of the main building. The clerestory windows, two in 
 each bay (the bays being marked by flat pilaster 
 buttresses) are late Norman, low, broad, and round- 
 headed. They are quite plain, and have been repaired 
 with purple Caerfai stone. They will be very much 
 improved in appearance by the addition of new cor- 
 belled parapets. (Some of the old corbels remain — 
 each corbel forming a water-spout.) But the exterior 
 of the nave is in fact heavy, and not very interesting ; 
 nor is the south porch, which breaks its line, by any 
 means an attractive feature. Its outer portal is Late 
 Perpendicular, as is the window of the parvise chamber 
 above it. A south porch was first added by Bishop 
 Gower in the Decorated period ; but it was afterwards 
 greatly altered, and its modern gable and external 
 staircase (on the west side) will doubtless be swept 
 away in the course of restoration. The Parvise cham- 
 ber, now approached by this external staircase, was 
 originally entered from a staircase turret, attached to 
 the buttress, and opening to the interior of the nave. 
 A flight of five steps within the porch, rises to the 
 inner portal — a very rich work of Gower's time. It 
 took the place of a much smaller Norman portal, of 
 which portions of the plinths remain. The doorway 
 is enriched with a profusion of sculpture, all of which 
 is shattered and defaced. The principal subject is the 
 Root of Jesse, with figures of Adam and Eve, appa- 
 rently, on the western impost, and on the other the 
 patriarch Jesse, from whom springs the branch. At 
 
(i be §0utlj SCrarrsjcpt fflttinbok 195 
 
 tlie top of tlie arch is a representation of the Holy 
 Trinity, with censing angels. The pinnacles of this 
 doorway are cut off by the vaulting of the porch. 
 
 In the Parvise chamber, which is used as a Chapter- 
 house of the Vicar's Choral, is an oaken case, glazed, 
 containing a few relics from the tombs near the choir 
 screen (see ante, § xvn.), and others which have been 
 found in and near the Cathedral. The most interest- 
 ing is the head of a pastoral staff, of bronze, gilt, 
 found in one of the tombs under the screen. The 
 central boss of the staff, with a fragment of wood ad- 
 hering to it, was also discovered, and is preserved in 
 the case. This relic is of Early Decorated character ; 
 but there is no certain evidence by which the bishop 
 in whose coffin it had been laid can be identified. In 
 the case are two chalices found in coffins opened when 
 the tower was strengthened. There is also a mass of 
 cere cloth from a coffin found near the centre of the 
 arch opening to the choir. 
 
 In the South Transept, the outline of the great Early 
 Perpendicular window, blocked when the existing Per- 
 pendicular lights were inserted, is jdainly visible. 
 These windows have been repaired, but otherwise the 
 transept (with the exception of the restoration of the 
 chapel on the east side to its proper form) is as yet 
 untouched. The flat turrets with angle shafts flanking 
 the front, are part of the original Transition work. 
 The octagonal form in which the turrets end is later. 
 The gables have been lowered. 
 
 The best general view of the tower and of this side 
 
196 St. gabib's «a%braL 
 
 of the church will be found about halfway down the 
 steps that descend into the churchyard, from beyond 
 the great castellated gateway of the close. The 
 ruined and ivy-covered east end of the Cathedral, with 
 the broken ground beyond, and the crags of Penbery 
 in the distance, here form a landscape of very great 
 beauty and interest ; and the chief architectural 
 features are better seen from this point than from any 
 other. The exterior of the central toiver is not strik- 
 ing. It is of three stages, without buttresses ; and 
 since each stage is of a different period, and no attempt 
 has been made to combine or harmonize them, the 
 whole has been well called a piece of architectural 
 patchwork. The lowest stage is Transitional, with angle 
 shafts at the north-east and south-east. The second is 
 Decorated, with a tall two-light window in each face. 
 On either side of each window is a small niche ; and 
 above, close under the string course, are two very 
 small lancet lights, " or rather loopholes." A string, 
 with the ball-flower ornament, runs round the base of 
 this story. The highest, or Perpendicular stage, has 
 two small windows in the centre of each face, with an 
 octagonal shaft running up between them, from the 
 lower string course to the base of the parapet. The 
 parapet and pinnacles are very poor. At the angles 
 of this stage are polygonal clustered shafts, which pro- 
 ject in such a manner as to give the whole stage the 
 appearance of being top-heavy. In contemplating the 
 great mass of the tower we become more fully alive to 
 the extreme difficulties encountered by Mr. Scott when 
 
% ~ 0l 4 |"sbgferg BSnforb*. 197 
 
 providing for its safety, and so happily surmounted by 
 him (see § vin.). 
 
 The windows of the South Presbytery Aisle are, as we 
 have seen (§ xiii.), entirely modern, and date from 
 the present restoration. The buttresses and their 
 pinnacles have also been restored with purple Caerfai 
 stone. The beautiful parapet is also modern. At the 
 east end of the presbytery the ancient arrangement of 
 the upper tier of windows has been most carefully and 
 ingeniously restored. " The design," says Mr. Scott, 
 " is very beautiful and interesting. Internally the 
 windows form a continuous arcade, .... while 
 externally — the lights being narrow and the piers 
 between them wide — the latter are occupied each by 
 a double niche, a fellow to which flanks either jamb ; so 
 that while the arcade within consists of four arches, 
 that without is formed of four groups of arches, making 
 twelve in all, four being windows and eight niches. 
 The details of all are excellent ; unfortunately, how- 
 ever, the roof of Bishop Vaughan's Chapel prevents 
 the external group from being seen with any effect, 
 though within we have now, so far as the forms of the 
 windows go, the ancient arrangement complete, and a 
 most effective and beautiful one it is." h 
 
 The roof of the Presbytery was lowered when the 
 Perpendicular window, now removed, was inserted in 
 the eastern wall. The weather moulding of the original 
 roof is visible against the east wall of the tower, and 
 indicates that "the excess of height in the choir, 
 h G. G. Scott. Report of 1869, p. 16. 
 
198 
 
 Si. glairuVs Ca%brd. 
 
 which is now very conspicuous, must have been de- 
 signed, in a smaller degree, from the time when the 
 present clerestory was built. It may probably have 
 been occasioned by the rise of the ground toward the 
 east." 1 
 
 The eastern Chapels and aisles call for little further 
 description. It may well be hoped that, like the rest 
 of the church, they will at no very distant time be 
 thoroughly and judiciously restored. Mr. Scott's re- 
 marks on this subject are added below. k 
 
 1 Jones and Freeman, p. 67. 
 
 k " The problem to be solved " (respecting these eastern 
 chapels) " is how to recover their original forms and features, 
 and how to bring them into a state of reasonable, seemly, and 
 permanent reparation, with the least possible interference with 
 the interest which attaches to them as relics of antiquity .... 
 The first step would be to repair those walls which seem to 
 retain a fair amount of strength, to examine and open out the 
 blocked-up windows, to search for remnants of their tracery ; 
 and, having recovered their design, to restore them, bringing in 
 such portions of old work as are capable of being retained. 
 The next parts to be dealt with are those of more doubtful sub- 
 stantiality, and with these the object to be aimed at will be to 
 recover their strength without reconstruction. A remainder will 
 probably be found to exist, of parts whose condition demands 
 their renovation; and here the object will be to reconstruct 
 them exactly according to their original forms, and in such a 
 manner as best to accord with the old work around them .... 
 The roof must then be added .... Happily, in two instances 
 the vaulting remains, and there can be no doubt that it has 
 once existed over the Lady Chapel itself. It may be doubtful 
 how far, with all our reparation, the old walls could be trusted 
 to bear the weight and thrust of stone vaulting ; and I should 
 incline to the expedient of forming the vaulting in oak upon the 
 old stone springers." In dealing with the minor details, and 
 with the " interesting and most valuable series " of tombs, con- 
 tinues Mr. Scott, " I would urge the most conservative course. 
 
%L Para's Well. 
 
 199 
 
 Opposite the east end of the Lady Chapel, and at no 
 great distance from it, is the spring of water which St. 
 David, according to the legend of his life, and to a 
 local tradition, caused to break forth for the service of 
 his disciples, and which, after the erection of the Lady 
 Chapel, seems to have been known as " St. Mary's 
 Well." It was this spring which, according to Giral- 
 dus, sometimes changed its water into wine, and some- 
 times into milk. 1 It is now (1871) covered with earth 
 and refuse thrown on it during the draining of the hill 
 behind it (see § in.) ; but it is supposed to be un- 
 injured, although an enormous volume of water has 
 been carried off by the drainage. It should be properly 
 cleared and protected. 
 
 XXII. The North side of the Cathedral has a very 
 unusual appearance, owing first, to the great mass of 
 St. Thomas's Chapel, with the Chapter-house above it 
 
 If in any degree renewed, their interest would be lost; they 
 must be preserved as shattered and time-worn relics of the past 
 and little more done to them than is necessary to secure them 
 against further mutilation and decay. For the latter purpose, 
 the course followed in dealing with the royal monuments in 
 Westminster Abbey would probably be applicable to them. I 
 mean the saturation of the pulverizing stone with an indurating 
 solution."— ' First Report/ pp. 24, 25. 
 
 1 " Quo Pater audito, ad locum Ccemeterii, ubi frequentius 
 Angelicis frui consueverat alloquiis, statim accessit. Cumque 
 ibidem aliquamdiu devotis ad Dominum orationibus institisset. 
 limpidissimai fons aquse eodem in loco prorupit. Qui sacra- 
 mentalibus plenum usibus idoneus et officiis, usque in hodier- 
 num ibidem emanat; antiquis aliquando vinum temporibus, 
 nostris autem aliquotiens lac stillarc diebus, indubitata veritate 
 compertus." — Giraldus, Yita S. Dav. ap. Wharton, Aug. Sac. 
 ii. 634. 
 
200 St. $mV* €nfytM. 
 
 (§ xiv.) which projects from the east side of the tran- 
 sept, and rises to a somewhat greater elevation ; and 
 next to the walls and tower, still massive though in 
 ruin, of St. Mary's College, which is connected by the 
 east wall of the cloister with the north face of the tran- 
 sept. From the east, or north-east, therefore, the north 
 side of the nave is almost completely hidden. It was 
 not, even before the erection of St. Mary's College, of 
 so much architectural importance as the south side, and 
 there is no reason to suppose that a cloister existed 
 here before the foundation of St. Mary's College. 
 
 The view above this side of the church, however, 
 (Plate XIII.) from the broken ground on the north-east, 
 combining, as it does, the Cathedral, St. Mary's College, 
 the ruined palace beyond the Alan rivulet, and a grand 
 rocky background, is perhaps the finest and most 
 varied at St. David's ; and nearer the church the frag- 
 ments of ruin group very picturesquely with the tran- 
 septal building, producing beautiful effects of light and 
 of colour. In the eastern Chapel aisle, Gower's 
 Decorated windows remain, though blocked up ; and 
 the buttresses, with their pinnacles, are nearly perfect. 
 The tall mass, including the Chapel and Chapter-house 
 above it (for their history see § xiv.) has been much 
 altered, chiefly by the blocking and mutilating of the 
 windows. " The roof, itself modern, is ready to fall 
 in ; the parapets, pinnacles, &c, are in a state of 
 absolute ruin ; indeed, the whole building may be 
 almost correctly described in the same terms." The 
 restoration of this portion of the Cathedral will no 
 
Clje ifortlj 8Tran$jept Sffintofo. 201 
 
 doubt be soon effected. The original tracery of the 
 windows at the east end has quite disappeared. There 
 are three windows over each other ; that in the topmost 
 stage, in form a spherical triangle, being altogether 
 blocked. Above, in the gable, is a small niche. Tall 
 buttresses, in three stages, rise at the angles. 
 
 The end of the North Transept is almost filled by 
 the large Decorated window, inserted in 1846. The 
 gable of the old roof remains above it ; but the roof 
 itself has been lowered. It will now (1871) be re- 
 stored to its old pitch, as a result of the groining of 
 the transept (see § xiv.). The west side of the tran- 
 sept will have a parapet carried on corbels according 
 to the old design, which can be traced out in the angle 
 next the tower. There will be a pinnacle at the north- 
 west angle. In this west wall there are two Transi- 
 tional windows, and a doorway below. The doorway 
 has a semicircular outer arch, with a segmental head 
 within, forming a solid tympanum. Almost imme- 
 diately after its construction, half the opening was 
 built up, making a narrow doorway in place of a wide 
 one. At a later period the doorway was walled up, 
 but so as to leave a recess within. In this recess was 
 inserted a slab, slightly hollowed on the top, with a 
 drain and spout (the latter showing on the outside). 
 A portion of the slab has been found, and reset. On 
 the left side is a small circular hollow with a channel 
 leading into the larger trough. The cill of the door- 
 way is much below the level of the Transept floor. 
 
202 %t Jafrib's <Ka%kal. 
 
 It must have been approached by steps within the 
 Transept. 
 
 The east wall of a cloister attached to the College 
 of St. Mary, connects that College with the transept. 
 Passing through a door at the north-east angle of the 
 cloister, we are in front of the north wall of the nave. 
 This is " supported by enormous masses of masonry in 
 the form of vast flying buttresses, which would ordi- 
 narily be considered a disfigurement ; but here, in con- 
 nection with the general ruggedness of the external 
 architecture, and especially from their close proximity 
 to the ruins of St. Mary's College, they serve to add 
 considerably to the strange and imposing effect of mag- 
 nificent desolation produced by the whole scene." m 
 These great buttressing masses were added during the 
 Perpendicular period. They receive (all except the 
 westernmost) the thrust of the flying buttresses, which 
 are partly seen within the aisle (§ vii.), and which 
 were erected in order to prevent the clerestory wall 
 from falling. This had been much shaken by the 
 earthquake of 1248, and had ever since been in an 
 insecure condition. 
 
 The wall of the clerestory on this side of the church 
 is faced with ashlar, the rest of the external walls being 
 chiefly of rubble. The clerestory on the south side is 
 also faced with ashlar, but the stone has there been 
 covered with plaster as a protection from the storms to 
 which that side is open. 
 
 m Jones and Freeman, p. 54. 
 
% Cloister. 203 
 
 The north doorway, by which the Cathedral is 
 entered on this side, is in the second bay from the 
 west. It is Transitional, not very richly decorated ; 
 " the mouldings of the arch begin to approximate to 
 Early English, exhibiting specimens of those forms 
 intermediate between the chevron and the tooth orna- 
 ment of which we find so rich a store within." n 
 
 XXIII. The great buttresses which support the 
 clerestory wall exhibit traces of a cloister connected 
 with St. Mary's College, one side of which was partly 
 built, or was intended to have been built, against 
 them. The cloister was rectangular. The wall arcade 
 and springers of the vaulting remain on the north side 
 against the wall of the College Chapel. On the east 
 side, under what was the sacristy of the Chapel, and 
 against the wall connecting the College with the tran- 
 sept, four bays are traced out and a fifth begun. On 
 the west side the wall is almost completely gone. 
 On the south side remains of the masonry of the 
 cloister are worked in with the westernmost buttress, 
 and with that adjoining. The extreme south bay of 
 the cloister thus stood between these buttresses, which 
 must have been built while the cloister was still exist- 
 ing ; since, in their construction, care was evidently 
 taken to avoid any interference with it. The two 
 eastern buttresses show no trace of any walls in the 
 neighbourhood of them, and they are built further out 
 than the others. The cloister, therefore, was never 
 completed on this side. At its southern extremity 
 n Jones and Freeman, p. 54. 
 
204 St. $ a bfo'g Catfrjebral. 
 
 there was a door, but tlie cloister stood separate from 
 the north wall of the Cathedral, though brought 
 sufficiently near to it. The members of the College 
 thus obtained a covered way to the church, and the 
 north door remained as a way of approach from the 
 prebendal houses, which, if the cloister had been 
 carried up to it, would have been cut off from the 
 readiest access to the Cathedral. The existing traces 
 of the cloister are of Late Decorated character. The 
 vaulting shafts of the north side are round, and there 
 are some bosses of foliage. 
 
 XXIV. The cloister, like the College of St. Mary, to 
 which it was attached, was the work of Bishop Adam 
 Houghton (1362-1389). He was co-founder, with 
 John of Gaunt, of the College, or chantry, which con- 
 sisted of a master, seven fellows or chaplains, and two 
 choristers. The master was commonly a Canon of the 
 Cathedral, and the whole establishment was under the 
 control of the Precentor of the Cathedral. 
 
 The existing ruins of the College are those of the 
 Chapel with a sacristy attached to it at the south-east 
 angle, and of a fragment of the domestic building 
 north of the tower. The complete ruin to which 
 these remains are now reduced was by no means 
 altogether the work of time. During the construction 
 of the modern west front of the Cathedral, the tracery 
 of the Chapel windows, and much of the ashlar work of 
 
 ° The College was well endowed. For the endowment and 
 for the body of statutes issued for the regulation of the College 
 in 1372, see Dugdale's ' Monasticon,' vi. p. 1390. 
 
% of it, Park's C(ppdL 205 
 
 their jambs was stripped away in order to supply 
 material for Nash's building. This is the more to be 
 regretted because there is sufficient evidence that the 
 window tracery was unusually good ; the east window, 
 in especial, must have been a very fine example of Early 
 Perpendicular. Nash, however, followed the example 
 of earlier spoliators. The interior of the Chapel had 
 been thoroughly cleared long before his time, and the 
 tomb of the founder had been so completely destroyed, 
 that the only existing traces of it are the marks against 
 the north-east wall, where the ashlar has been torn 
 away. 
 
 From whatever point of view the Chapel is seen, its 
 tall, slender tower first attracts notice. This, like the 
 Chapel itself — the height of which is everywhere 
 striking — is raised on a long crypt, which runs longitu- 
 dinally, " and consists of a single elliptical barrel vault, 
 cut into on the north side by the rear arches of small 
 lights." Under the tower was the entrance from the 
 cloister, apparently by a flight of steps under an arch 
 now entirely destroyed. The tower, and two bays 
 beyond it, to the north, formed a sort of vestibule 
 to the Chapel. This vestibule was reached from the 
 domestic buildings by a winding staircase at the north- 
 west angle, the turret of which rises some little way 
 above the wall, and supj)lied a means of access to a 
 flat-roofed chamber above the vestibule of the Chapel. 
 This chamber had an external window, besides one 
 looking into the Chapel, an arrangement which, as Mr. 
 Freeman suggests, resembles that of the infirmary at St. 
 
206 St. §ubW* «a%bral. 
 
 Cross, near Winchester. The fact that the vestibule 
 could only be approached by this winding staircase, has 
 given rise to the suggestion that the ruin beyond it 
 may have been that of the Common hall, and not of the 
 Chapel. The want of a more imposing entrance is of 
 course a great defect ; but there cannot be the smallest 
 doubt that this was really the Chapel. 
 
 The tower, which is very plain, was designed to 
 have a spire, as is evident by the squinches visible at 
 the top of the interior. It now ends with a cornice, 
 from which project figures of angels. The buttress, 
 which is built against its south-west angle, seems to 
 have been, at least in its upper portion, an after- 
 thought, and was perhaps rendered necessary by some 
 kind of settlement during the building of the tower. The 
 Chapel itself is of four bays, three of which only have 
 windows ; since the easternmost bay was on the south 
 side flanked by a sacristy, and on the north contained 
 the vast structure of the founder's tomb. The western- 
 most bay, and one half of the bay beyond it, formed an 
 ante-chapel ; they were divided from the space eastward 
 by a screen, probably of no great height. There was 
 no west window — a defect nearly as great as the want 
 of a fitting entrance. Some portion of the domestic 
 buildings was reared against the west wall of the 
 tower, in such a way as to render any window opening 
 impossible. The sacristy, with a chamber over it, was 
 entered from the eastern bay of the Chapel. It con- 
 tains a piscina, and stood over the eastern side of the 
 cloister. 
 
«a%bnd %t\pol 207 
 
 On the north side of the Chapel were the domestic 
 buildings of the College. Each member had a private 
 house, ranged round three sides of a small quadrangle 
 open to the north. The gateway, on the north side, a 
 single, plain, four-centred arch, remains. Of the 
 houses, the vaults alone on which they stood are in 
 existence. 
 
 In addition to this College, Bishop Houghton was 
 the founder of the Cathedral School, and the endow- 
 ment of the choristers is due to him. The school still 
 exists. It is one of the most ancient scholastic foun- 
 dations in this country. In the latter half of the six- 
 teenth century the younger priest vicars, as well as the 
 lay vicars and choristers, were ordered to attend it, — an 
 indication that the learning of the vicars of St. David's 
 at that time was not very remarkable. Where this 
 school was at first held does not appear. About the 
 year 1557 a " school-house" was built over an edifice 
 adjoining the west side of the churchyard wall, which 
 had served as a work house for the repairs of the church. 
 Here the school was held until 1791, when the room 
 was altered by Nash into a Chapter-house, and the 
 school was removed to the ancient Chapter-house over 
 St. Thomas's Chapel. It remained there until the 
 beginning of the late restoration. Nash's Chapter- 
 house was taken down in 1829. 
 
 On the sloping ground north of St. Mary's College 
 stood the College of the Vicars Choral, who were 
 first placed in a common dwelling by Bishop Beck 
 
208 %t gafrfo'g «a%bral. 
 
 (1280-1293). Scarcely a fragment of the buildings 
 remains. 
 
 The Cathedral, the Chapel of St. Mary's College, 
 and the Cloisters, stand within the ancient cemetery, 
 which extends from the Tower Gate to the Alan. Its 
 limits and enclosing walls must not be confounded with 
 those of the Great Close, to be hereafter (§ xxvi.) 
 described. 
 
 XXY. On the right bank of the Alan, opposite the 
 Cathedral, and grouping with it from almost every point 
 of view, are the ruins of the magnificent episcopal Pa lace, 
 the work of Bishop Gower (1328-1347), and dating 
 apparently from about the year 1342. It was there- 
 fore one of the later works of Gower, who, as we have 
 seen, made very considerable changes in his Cathedral ; 
 and who, from his great love of building, from the 
 splendid scale of his designs, and possibly as the in- 
 ventor of what was, at least in this part of the king- 
 dom, a new and distinct architectural style, is entitled 
 to rank with those great builders who belong to the 
 latter half of the century — Archbishop Thoresby, at 
 York, and William of Wykeham, at Winchester. 
 Gower has, indeed, if we except the palace at St. 
 David's, left nothing which can excite wonder and 
 admiration so deeply as the works of those prelates in 
 their respective Cathedrals. But his style is marked 
 by strong and individual peculiarities. His buildings 
 are " most eminently neither Early English nor Perpen- 
 dicular ; not only is their actual detail quite distinct 
 
fffct fate* of St. gafrfo's. 209 
 
 from both, but there is not the slightest approach to the 
 character of either ; we miss alike the distinctness of 
 the one and the continuity of the other." p The details 
 are not always pleasing. His ornament is always 
 singularly flat, and his mouldings unvaried. Yet in 
 the arrangement of great architectural masses, such as 
 this of the palace, in the great variety of his outlines, 
 and in the resolute breaking away from the older archi- 
 tectural traditions, he displays an amount of power and 
 originality which entitle him to great distinction. He 
 was at any rate the introducer of a true Decorated style 
 in his own Diocese. To him, or to the school which he 
 founded, must be ascribed the Episcopal palace at 
 Lamphey, near Pembroke, the chancel of Swansea 
 Church, Swansea Castle, Carew Church, and some 
 portions of the Churches of Hodgeston and Monkton. 
 In all these buildings his peculiar style is to be dis- 
 tinctly traced. This, as has been said, is characterized 
 by a great variety of general outline, and by a flatness 
 in all the details. The shafts are generally octagonal, 
 the capitals hardly project from them, and, of all 
 Gower's ornaments, the favourite is a four-leaved 
 flower, not rising at all above the surface, and laid in 
 somewhat shallow mouldings. 
 
 The Palace of St. David's, ruined as it is, is an 
 admirable example of architectural arrangement. In 
 form it is quadrangular, " but it is so broken up by 
 numerous projections, some at right angles to the 
 main fabric, others assuming the form as it were of 
 p Jones and Freeman, p. 204. 
 
 P 
 
210 £t. §ubWz «adtfrjcbral. 
 
 aisles, that the monotony of the square form is alto- 
 gether lost, and a most varied and picturesque effect 
 produced." q In the present condition of the building 
 the first point which attracts attention is the very 
 remarkable parapet which extends round nearly every 
 part of the ruins. A series of open arches rest on 
 octagonal shafts springing from corbels. Over the 
 arcade is a corbel table, and above, again, a battle- 
 ment with very narrow embrasures and loopholes. 
 The battlement has almost entirely disappeared. The 
 open arcade remains nearly perfect. The shaft capi- 
 tals and corbels are much varied ; and in some parts 
 of the building small square stones of different colours 
 were used with very good effect. This parapet is one 
 of Gower's most marked peculiarities. It occurs at 
 Swansea Castle, and in the palace of Lamphey. Pine 
 and striking as it now is, cresting the long lines of 
 ruined wall, it is possible that when the building was 
 perfect the effect was not so good. The parapet was of 
 most unusual height, and must have greatly hidden, 
 without any apparent object, the steep roofs which rose 
 within it. Neither roof nor parapet thus received full 
 justice/ 
 
 An indifferent gateway on the north side of the 
 quadrangle formed the chief entrance to the palace. 
 Adjoining it, in the north-east angle, is a small build- 
 ing, projecting from the main body, which has been 
 looked upon as a small Chapel, but which it is diffi- 
 cult to appropriate satisfactorily. It seems uncertain 
 q Jones and Freeman, p. 191. r Id., p. 192. 
 
% fed fall. 211 
 
 whether any other buildings existed at any time 
 against the north side. This now retains only the wall 
 of enclosure. The west side has lost the greater part 
 of its buildings; but here, at the farther end, is the 
 principal Chapel of the palace, projecting westward 
 from the Great Hall, which occupies the south side of 
 the quadrangle. There is a porch on the north side 
 of the Chapel ; and at its north-west angle, supported 
 on corbelled arches, is a small bell-turret, terminated 
 by a broach-spire. " From this we may conceive the 
 tower of St. Mary's College to have been probably 
 imitated;" 8 and if that tower still retained its spire, it 
 would doubtless present an enlarged version of this 
 turret. There was an east window ; and besides the 
 main porch, a portal opened to the Chapel from a 
 room west of the Great Hall. 
 
 The Great Hall, on the south side, is, perhaps, the 
 most striking portion of the ruin. It is entered at the 
 eastern end through a porch rising to the full height of 
 the building, and greatly enriched with ornament (see 
 Title page). The arch of entrance is "of a singular 
 and rare form, especially at so early a period ; it is 
 struck from six centres, but may be more intelligibly 
 described as an ogee four-centered arch." * The hall 
 itself was of considerable size ; but an apartment west 
 of it, which was separated from it by a wall, now 
 forms part of the same area, and increases the appa- 
 rent extent. The whole is roofless, and the floor is 
 now covered with the brightest greensward. There 
 
 * Jones and Freeman, p. 192. 1 Id. 
 
 p 2 
 
212 »t gafcifo Ca%bmL 
 
 are side windows in the hall, and one in the room 
 west of it, all of which were of two lights, with 
 transoms ; and at the east end is a circular window of 
 great beauty, with the four-leaved flower, so frequent 
 in Gower's work, ornamenting the outer moulding. 
 Beneath this window a doorway led into a kind of 
 external aisle. Staircase turrets flanked this eastern 
 gable. The name of "King John's Hall" is popu- 
 larly given to this stately apartment, but for what 
 reason is unknown. It is of course of much more 
 recent date than the reign of the English King ; and King 
 John of France, the captive of the Black Prince, was 
 not brought to England until long after the death of 
 Gower, and had no connection with St. David's. 
 
 The east side of the quadrangle contained the chief 
 domestic apartments, having in the centre a smaller 
 hall, generally known as the " Bishop's Hall." There 
 was a porch, of which the outer doorway resembles 
 that at the north end of the rood screen in the Cathe- 
 dral. In the east side of the hall is a chimney. Two 
 rooms adjoin the hall ; and at the south end of this 
 side, between it and the great hall, is the kitchen, a 
 vaulted apartment. At this end of the east, side there 
 is, both internally and externally, a sort of aisle raised 
 against the main body of building. All the buildings 
 throughout the palace are raised on a series of vaults 
 — a necessary precaution against the damp of the river 
 valley. Some of these vaults appear to have served as 
 lodging-places for members of the household, and in 
 that under the great Chapel there are traces of a fireplace. 
 
Hxsfcrg of % palace. 
 
 213 
 
 This vast and stately palace well illustrates the 
 architectural magnificence of the time at which it was 
 built. The first half of the reign of Edward III. was 
 a period especially distinguished by great show and 
 splendour, and the builders of the age kept steady 
 pace with it. This, too, as we know from coins which 
 have been found from time to time at St. David's, was 
 the century during which the shrine of the great 
 Welsh saint was held in the highest honour and was 
 most frequented by pilgrims. The Bishop of St. 
 David's, whose See was then regarded as one of very 
 great dignity, thus raised for himself a palace in 
 which pilgrims of the highest rank might be fittingly 
 received, and which would serve as no unbecoming 
 hostel for the sovereign himself on his way to or from 
 Ireland. The especial merit of the palace is, however, 
 its strictly domestic character. Unlike the remains at 
 Llandaff, these are not the ruins of a castle, but of an 
 abode " of hospitality and religion." u 
 
 u "It is hardly necessary to say that many Churches, even 
 of inferior ecclesiastical rank, greatly surpass St. David's 
 Cathedral in extent and in positive beauty, though certainly 
 there is none which could so well occupy its peculiar position ; 
 of the palace, on the other hand, it is hardly too much to affirm 
 that it is altogether unsurpassed by any existing English 
 edifice of its own kind. One can hardly conceive any structure 
 that more completely proclaims its peculiar purpose; it is 
 essentially a palace, and not a castle; we have not here the 
 moat, the tower, the frowning gateway, or any feature pro- 
 claiming, if not an intention of hostility, at all events a state of 
 things involving the necessity of defence : the prominent points 
 are the superb rose window of the hall, and the graceful spire 
 of the chapel, importing an abode, not of warfare, but of hos- 
 pitality and religion." — Jones and Freeman, p. 189. • 
 
214 St. §ubxVs Ca%kaL 
 
 The palace is well seen from the ferny bank which 
 rises above it on the west. The best remaining frag- 
 ment of the battlement, with its variegated stone work, 
 is near the south-east corner. 
 
 XXVI. The Cathedral, the Palace, St. Mary's 
 College, and the houses of the Canons and other 
 officers of the Church, were surrounded by a massive 
 close wall, which has generally been regarded as part 
 of Gower's work. This wall followed a very irregular 
 course, and although this may still be traced, only a 
 small part of the wall, south-west of the Cathedral, 
 remains perfect. There were four gates facing the 
 cardinal points, and known as the Tower Gate, Boning' s 
 Gate, Porth Gwyn, or the White Gate, and Porth 
 Padrig, or St. Patrick's Gate. Of these the only one 
 that remains is the Towei* Gate at the eastern side 
 of the churchyard. This is a very imposing struc- 
 ture, the gateway being flanked on the north by 
 an octagonal tower, on the south by a semi-circular 
 one, which is also octagonal within. Both are now 
 roofless. The octagonal tower is of earlier date than 
 the gateway, which was built up against it, or than the 
 semi-circular tower which was built together with 
 the gateway. It contains two stories, the lower of 
 which may have been vaulted ; the upper is approached 
 by a winding staircase. This upper story is lighted 
 by four lancets, the lower by two. The doorway is in 
 the face nearly fronting the Cathedral. The architec- 
 tural character of this tower is exceedingly good, and 
 it fyas been suggested, with much probability, that it 
 
fffee " £p«akmg mow." 215 
 
 was at first designed as a detached campanile. Such a 
 bell tower existed at Llandaff ; and the style of this 
 tower at St. David's " fixes it to the period when the 
 Church would seem to have had no tower at all capable 
 of holding bells, namely, between the fall of the original 
 tower of de Leia — probably after all, itself a mere 
 lantern — and the Decorated stage added in Gower's 
 time." x 
 
 The little river Alan is crossed by two or more 
 bridges within the walls of the close. These bridges 
 are all ancient and interesting. The most remarkable 
 is that near the west front of the Cathedral. This 
 bridge replaced a stone known as the Llechllafar, or 
 " speaking stone," described by Giraldus as a slab of 
 marble polished by the feet of wayfarers. It was 
 not lawful to carry a dead body into the cemetery 
 across this stone, which, when that indignity was 
 on one occasion offered to it, lifted its voice in re- 
 monstrance, and split with the effort. A prophecy of 
 Merlin foretold that a King of England, on his return 
 from the conquest of Ireland, should die on this stone, 
 wounded by a red-haired man. The prediction was 
 applied to Henry II. by a woman whose petition the 
 King had rejected. But before setting foot on the 
 stone, Henry addressed it solemnly, and passed over 
 unharmed, to make his offerings before the shrine of 
 St. David. 
 
 The prebendal houses, which extend up the valley 
 on the right bank of the Alan, are almost entirely 
 x Jones and Freeman, p. 212. 
 
216 %t g^ito tfat^bral. 
 
 modern. They are within the limits of the Close, and 
 occupy the sites of the more ancient dwellings. The 
 present Deanery, on the hill south of the Cathedral, 
 represents the old Precentory. 
 
 XXVII. The best points of view from which the whole 
 group of buildings is commanded, have already (§ xxi. 
 and § xxn.) been noticed. They are, the gate in 
 the road called the " Popples," y opening on the steps 
 which descend into the cemetery, a little west of the 
 Tower Gate, and the hill side north-east of the Cathe- 
 dral, between it and the " City." The great peculiarity 
 of both these views is the wild background in which 
 they are set. The distant crags of Carn Llidi and 
 Penbery are seen across a stretch of bare, treeless 
 country, contrasting strongly with the green valley of 
 the Alan, and the presence of an architectural group 
 of such extent and magnificence. The longer the 
 buildings of St. David's are studied the more wonder 
 is felt that such a display of the highest art, attended 
 by so great cost and labour, should be found in a posi- 
 tion so* remote and so solitary. Even the " City " 
 of St. David's is little, if at all, in sight from these 
 points. 
 
 This " Dinas," or city, occupies the crest of the hill 
 before it begins to slope itself steeply toward the Alan. 
 There is a restored cross in the centre of an open 
 place in the town, before which all coffins were for- 
 
 y From the pebble-stones (papol-popol, A. S. = a pebble) 
 with which it is paved. The word is commonly used in Devon- 
 shire. 
 
Sfee (Cfeapel xrf St. Ion. 217 
 
 merly rested for some time on their way to the ceme- 
 tery below. 
 
 XXVIII. Many detached Chapels existed in the 
 parish of St. David's, chiefly near the sea-coast. Offer- 
 ings were made at them by pilgrims, and by sailors ; 
 and to such an extent that, as it is asserted, the money 
 " was brought on Saturdays to the Chapter-house, and 
 there divided by dishfuls, the quantity not allowing 
 them leisure to tell it." z The offerings may have 
 been generally made in coins of the smallest value ; 
 but it is hardly possible to accept such a statement 
 literally, although the sums received at these Chapels 
 were, as we learn from other sources, very considerable. 
 The most perfect remaining Chapel is that of St. 
 Justinian, or " Capel Stinan," on the cliffs immediately 
 opposite the Isle of Eamsey (For the legend of St. 
 Justinian see Part II.). It is an oblong, measuring 
 about forty feet by seventeen and a half, and is now 
 roofless. The present structure, which may well have 
 replaced an older one, is attributed to Bishop Yaughan. 
 
 Of greater interest is the ruined Chapel of St. Non, 
 the mother of St. David. This, according to the legend 
 (for which see Part II.), was raised on the spot where 
 the great saint was born. In form it resembles Capel 
 Stinan ; but the lower part of the walls is built of 
 enormous blocks of stone, and may be of great anti- 
 quity, and the oblong ground plan recalls that of the 
 early Irish oratories. This Chapel stands on the 
 slope of a green combe, a little above the edge of the 
 z Browne Willis. 
 
218 git JaMto «a%bral. 
 
 cliffs that stretch northward from Caerfai. Beneath 
 the altar, as we learn from Bhyddmarch's life of St. 
 David, was part of a stone which leaped from the head 
 of St. Non to her feet at the birth of David. A few 
 yards distant is St. Non's well, covered with a plain 
 barrel vault, which was restored during the last century. 
 At the side is a square recess, in which may have been 
 deposited such offerings of " pins and pebbles " as were 
 formerly made. The water is still held to be of great 
 virtue in the cure of various diseases. Another well, 
 near the mouth of the Alan, was protected by a Chapel, 
 and the spring which supplies it burst from the ground, 
 according to the legend, to supply water for the 
 baptism of St. David. 
 
 Another Chapel deserves mention here, although all 
 trace of it has disappeared. It stood on the road to 
 Fishguard, and was called " Capel-y-Gwrhyd," the 
 " Chapel of the Fathom." On an arch here was shown 
 " St. David's Fathom," measuring about three yards 
 and a half, and looked upon as the length of the Saint's 
 expanded arms. Saints, like heroes of romance, be- 
 come giants in some forms of popular tradition. 
 
219 
 
 APPENDIX TO PAET I. 
 
 § VIII. 
 
 Mr. Scott's description of the restoration of the Tower is as 
 follows. At the time it was written, the shoring had not 
 been removed. This has now been the case for several years, 
 and the piers sustain their weight perfectly : — 
 
 "The object to be aimed at was little, if anything, less 
 than the rebuilding from their foundation of two of the four 
 piers which sustained the tower, each of them bearing a load 
 of 1150 tons, which had to be supported by timber shoring 
 during the operation. 
 
 " Our first work, however, was to take measures for binding 
 together, and otherwise strengthening the tower itself, so as 
 to avoid the danger of its becoming fractured, or otherwise 
 injured, during the reconstruction of its supporting piers ; and 
 this was rendered the more necessary by the disintegrated 
 state of the lower walls immediately resting on the arches, 
 and the enormous cracks by which the north and south 
 walls were rent throughout their entire height. This object 
 was attained by the introduction of permanent iron ties of 
 great strength, at several different levels, binding all the walls 
 together ; by the use of temporary girdles of massive timber- 
 work round the exterior of the tower, throughout the greater 
 part of its height; and by repairing with new stone and 
 strong cement many parts of the disintegrated walls. 
 
 u The shoring by which the weight of the western half of 
 the tower has been temporarily supported, is of three descrip- 
 tions — first, direct supports under the western, northern, and 
 southern arches (the two former consisting of timber framing, 
 and the latter being provided by an old stone wall by which 
 the arch was blocked) ; secondly vertical shores of immense 
 
220 
 
 strength, supporting e needles * or horizontal masses of timber, 
 passing through the walls ; and thirdly, by 4 raking ' or 
 inclined shores abutting against the walls in all directions, 
 and both supporting weight and preventing lateral motion. 
 All these had to be provided with firm foundations, having to 
 bear the actual weight of the tower. The magnitude of the 
 work may be judged of when I mention that, of the six main 
 supports of the Needles' two consisted of nine and the others 
 of six full-sized balks of timber, bound together into one mass 
 by irons and thus making timber supports, the first 3 feet 
 6 inches square, and the others 3 feet 6 inches by 2 feet 4 
 inches in thickness, and all of them 36 feet in length. The 
 1 needles ' are of oak, 2 feet 4 inches deep and 2 feet 4 inches 
 thick, and shod with wrought iron. The raking shores are 
 arranged in systematic groups, giving supports at all heights, 
 from immediately over the piers to nearly the top of the 
 tower. The shoring has required the use of nearly 12,000 
 cubic feet of timber. 
 
 " The state of the west wall of the tower was rendered 
 alarmingly apparent by the difficulties encountered in making 
 the holes for the * needles.' Mr. Clear, the clerk of the works, 
 and myself, foreseeing some difficulty, arranged a plan by 
 which, before cutting through the wall, a sort of tunnel of 
 strong stone should be formed through it by inserting the 
 stones, one at a time, in the shattered rubble- work, and then 
 removing the enclosed wall. This was done, with some 
 difficulty, to a depth of 2 feet from either side ; but as the 
 wall is 6 feet thick, there remained 2 feet in the middle 
 untunnelled ; and when the enclosed wall was attempted to 
 be removed, the middle mass began to pour out like an 
 avalanche, which was only stopped by the immediate inser- 
 tion of sand-bags, and by subsequently running the wall from 
 above with liquid cement, and thus solidifying the disinte- 
 grated rubbish. 
 
 "These systems of supports having been completed, the 
 actual operations commenced ; and for this another, and less 
 permanent, system of shoring was requisite. If the main 
 shoring may be compared to the solid masses of an army, 
 
gfpwtfci* to | art $. 
 
 221 
 
 those I am now speaking of may be viewed as the skir- 
 mishers. They consist of needles and props inserted im- 
 mediately above the part to be operated on, and supporting 
 a portion of the shattered pier while that below it w T as 
 renewed ; and as soon as this was effected, a new needle was 
 inserted above the first one, to make way for the renewal of 
 another batch ; each lower needle being in its turn removed, 
 when that above it was secured. Besides this, however, 
 endless extemporized precautions had at every hour to be 
 taken, to provide against contingencies which were ever 
 arising ; blocks of timber inserted under stones threatening to 
 fall ; struts and shields against masses in danger of bursting ; 
 sand-bags &c, against the rushing out of the avalanches of 
 rubbish; temporarily running together with liquid cement 
 of parts which, though eventually to be removed had not yet 
 been reached, and threatened, if not consolidated, to bury the 
 workmen in their ruins. All these and many more pre- 
 cautions, had to be taken to meet the exigencies of every day 
 and every hour ; and when it is considered that each pier 
 took months to reinstate ; that these dangerous operations 
 could not, in many cases, be suspended day or night, and that 
 the clerk of the works would never leave the spot while any 
 dangerous work was pending, you may judge of the wearing 
 anxiety which he and others engaged in the work have 
 undergone. 
 
 " By the process I have thus briefly sketched, the entire 
 piers, excepting a small central portion, have been rebuilt 
 from their foundations to their capitals ; the new stonework 
 having to be inserted a little at a time, has been aided in all 
 cases by strong copper cramps, so as to tie its courses together 
 in their circuit round the pier. All the stones are laid in 
 strong cement, and all that remains within of the old work is 
 run together at each course with liquid cement till it will 
 hold no more. I saw myself ten pailsful of this material 
 poured into a single hole. 
 
 " The stone made use of is the purple stone of the neigh- 
 bouring cliffs, and closely resembles the old stone, though 
 somewhat harder, and is worked in a similar manner. Any 
 
222 
 
 old stones which were unshattered, (of which I regret to say- 
 that but very few were found) have been re-used. 
 
 u I had hoped that the southern pier, which was the second 
 operated upon, would have proved less dangerous than the 
 northern one, but on a close examination of it I found that it 
 was fully as much shattered as the other had been, and in 
 point of fact was ready to burst at the middle of its height. 
 The clerk of the works, when he reached this point, told me 
 that a cat could walk in and out the cracks which intersected 
 the pier." — Second Report on the state of the Fabric of St. 
 David's Cathedral, 1869. 
 
 Sculpture in the head of Triforium Arches. St. David's. 
 
ST. DAVID'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PAET II. 
 
 Jf htorg 0f % £tt, foitjr latins of 
 
 THE see of Menevia or St. David's, the most important 
 and the most famous of the four Welsh sees, was 
 founded, like the others, toward the end of the 6th 
 century. The diocese was conterminous with the prin- 
 cipality of Dyfed — the boundaries of which varied at 
 different times, but always included the whole of what is 
 now Pembrokeshire. Dyfed retains the name of the 
 Demetce, the Cymric inhabitants of the district in the days 
 of Ptolemy. 
 
 The foundation of the see is assigned to St. David, who, 
 according to an ancient tradition, is said to have removed 
 to this place the see of Caerleon, in which the same tradi- 
 tion represents him as having succeeded Dubricius. 
 Caerleon, it is said, was too closely peopled, and was too 
 dangerously near the heathen English. Menevia was, or 
 seemed to be, far removed from the tumults of the world, 
 and the site was well fitted for prayer and contemplation. 
 It is possible that this tradition may record a truth ; and 
 it is certain that the see of Caerleon became extinct about 
 the time at which St. David's was founded. (See the 
 general Introduction to this volume, § iii.) But the ex- 
 isting lives of St. David are too legendary, and the notices 
 of him in authentic chronicles and records are too scanty, 
 
224 
 
 Sit gJafriir's <Ka%irraL 
 
 to allow of any certainty as to the circumstances under 
 which the see of Menevia was founded. 
 
 The earliest existing life of St. David ( Dewi is his Welsh 
 name) is by Eicemarch or Khyddmarch, bishop of the see 
 between 1088 and 1096. This was re-written ' scholastico 
 stilo' by Giraldus Cambrensis, in the 12th century. 
 There is also a life in Welsh, known as the 'Buchedd 
 Dewi Sant.' But this, and others, such as the abridge- 
 ment in Capgrave, are all founded on Ricemarch's ' Yita ;' a 
 and all therefore that we can gather from these lives is 
 what was believed at St. David's about the great patron 
 saint of Wales at the end of the 11th century. This is 
 not history, although much historical truth is no doubt 
 mingled with the legend, which runs as follows : — 
 
 Sandde, son or grandson of Ceredig, the prince who gave 
 his name to the province of Ceredigion or Cardigan, was 
 a mighty hunter, who once hunting in Dewisland (the 
 district which surrounds St. David's) fell in with Non or 
 Nonna, daughter of Gynyr of Caer Gawch. The result 
 of this accidental meeting was the birth of St. David. 
 Long before Sandde met Non, however, St. Patrick, return- 
 ing to Britain from Borne, thought to establish himself 
 in a remote valley of Dewisland, near the shore of White- 
 sand Bay. b But he was warned in vision to quit the 
 
 a Ricemarch's life is printed in the 1 Lives of the Cambro- 
 British Saints,' and in 'Acta Sanctorum,' March 1. The 
 1 Buchedcl Dewi Sant ' will also be found in the ' Lives of the 
 Cambro-Brit. Saints.' The life by Giraldus is in the third volume 
 of his * Opera,' (Master of the Rolls' Series) p. 377. 
 
 b A chapel dedicated to St. Patrick was afterwards built here ; 
 and the foundations of a small building are still visible in the 
 middle of a field at the northern end of Whitesand Bay, at the 
 commencement of the ascent to Cam Llidi. These foundations 
 are said to be those of the chapel, which was destroyed before 
 the end of the sixteenth century. A place called St. Patrick's 
 seat was shown at an early period as that from which the saint 
 
fife of %l gafrfo. 
 
 225 
 
 place, which was destined for another ; and being told that 
 the field of his labour was to be a great island beyond the 
 sea, at once the whole of Ireland was unrolled before him. 
 St. Patrick obeyed and departed. 
 
 The great Doctor St. Gildas, preaching at Caermorfa (a 
 town which stood also on Whitesand Bay), in the presence 
 of JSTonna, became dumb before the unborn saint, " a greater 
 than he." A neighbouring chieftain, who foresaw his 
 future power and greatness, attempted to destroy his 
 mother ; but a terrible thunderstorm prevented his design, 
 and in the midst of the tempest St. David was born at a 
 spot above the cliffs of St. Bride's Bay, where a well and the 
 ruins of a chapel dedicated to his mother still remain. The 
 future saint was baptized by a bishop named EM at Porth- 
 claes, where the Alan rivulet meets the sea. A spring was 
 miraculously produced for the purpose ; and a blind man 
 who held David in the water received his sight/ 1 The 
 holy David " David Agius " — as Ricemarch calls him — 
 was brought up at Hen Mynyw — Old Menevia — a place 
 which seems to be identical with Caermorfa. Here he 
 received holy orders ; and then placed himself under the 
 care of Paulinus, a pupil of Germanus, and one of the great 
 teachers of the age, at Whitland in Caermarthenshire. e 
 
 beheld the whole cf Ireland in vision. It may have been (but 
 this is not certain) on the same site as this chapel. 
 
 c This chapel is described in Part i. § 28. 
 
 d See Part i. § 28. 
 
 e Paulinus is said to have been a bishop, but without a see ; 
 and according to Ricemarch was present at the synod of Llan- 
 ddewi Brefi. No legend of his life is extant : but a stone found 
 at Pant y Polion, Caio, near Llanddewi-Brefi, has the following 
 inscription, which seems to prove, at any rate, the existence of 
 such a person : — 
 
 rt Seruatur (sic) Fidasi Patrieque semper Amator 
 Hie Paulinus jacit cultor pientisimus (sic) Aequi." 
 
 This stone is now at Dolau Cothi, the house of J. Jolines, 
 Esq. 
 
 Q 
 
226 
 
 After twelve years of study he began to preach ; and 
 wandering through the country, founded twelve monasteries 
 in various parts of Britain/ 
 
 When St, David at length returned to Hen Mynyw he 
 found his cousin (or his uncle, according to Griraldus) 
 Gweslan, residing there as bishop. He settled himself in 
 Glyn Rhosyn — " Vallis Rosina " — also called Hodnant, 8 
 both of which were names given to the lower valley of the 
 Alan, in which the Cathedral of St. David's now stands. 
 Here many disciples joined him, among whom were St. 
 Teilo, the patron of Llandaff (see that Cathedral, Part II.) ; 
 St. Aidan, afterwards Bishop of Ferns, in Ireland ; and St. 
 Ishmael. In building his monastery he was greatly hin- 
 dered by a pertain chief and sorcerer named Boia, the site 
 of whose " castle " is still pointed out at no great distance 
 from the valley. 11 But St. David was protected by heaven. 
 The wife of Boia, who had especially persecuted him, 
 became mad. The castle was destroyed by lightning ; and 
 Boia himself was defeated and killed by a chieftain called 
 Leschi. 1 
 
 Thus the land was freed from enemies, and the monastery 
 flourished exceedingly. The lives of nearly all the Welsh 
 saints of this period connect them with it. Many Irish 
 saints — among whom were Brendan, Barroc, and Modom- 
 
 f Among them were Glastonbury and Bath, Glascwm in Rad- 
 norshire, Repton, Leominster, and Raglan, and Llangyfelach in 
 Gower. 
 
 s The name of Glyn Rhosyn == the vale of roses, has arisen 
 from a confusion between Rhos-& moor and Rhosyn -a, rose. 
 Hodnant is translated * vallis prospera.' 
 
 h It is on the summit of a rock named u Clegyr-Foia " = Boia's 
 Rock, between St. David's and the sea. Local tradition goes on 
 to assert that a smaller " strength/' overlooking the valley of 
 the Alan, and much nearer St. David's, was constructed by the 
 saint for the protection of his u family," as the inmates and 
 dependents of ,a religious house were then called collectively. 
 
 1 An inlet on the coast still preserves the name of Leschi. 
 
fife of St. gabiir- 
 
 227 
 
 nach — were attracted to it. St. Finiau of Clonard " oidhe " 
 or " foster-father of the saints of Ireland," as he is called, 
 himself the master of a famous school which produced 
 three thousand disciples, had sat at the feet of St. David ; 
 as had St. Bar of Cork. It is to St. David also, according 
 to Ricemarch, that Ireland is indebted for her bees. Mo- 
 domnach passed from Glyn Rosyn to Ireland, " and a large 
 swarm of bees followed him and settled on the prow of the 
 ship where he sat." They accompanied him, and supplied 
 him with honey during his Irish mission ; but " not de- 
 siring to enjoy their company by fraud," he brought them 
 back to Wales, when " they fled to their usual place, and 
 David blessed Modomnach for his humility." Three times 
 the bees went and returned with Modomnach, " and the 
 third time holy David dismissed Modomnach with the bees 
 and blessed them," saying that henceforth bees should 
 prosper in Ireland, bat that they should no longer increase 
 in Glyn Rosyn. 
 
 Besides numerous Irish, it is asserted that Constantine, 
 Prince of Dyfnaint or Damnonia, left his kingdom about 
 the year 589 to enter the monastery of St. David. Con- 
 stantine or " Cystennyn," whose name recals the great 
 Emperor whom Britain claimed as her own son, was the 
 " tyrannic whelp of the unclean Damnonian lioness," 
 apostrophised with other chieftains of Britain by Gildas in 
 his well-known epistle. k The rule of life in the monastery 
 is described by Ricemarch, and is summed up by Giraldus 
 under the heads of labour, reading, prayer, and works of 
 charity. It was no doubt of the same character as the 
 religious houses founded by St. Martin in Gaul in the 5 th 
 century (the first in Western Europe), and as those of the 
 
 k " Immundse lesenae Dannoniaa tyrannicus catulus Constan- 
 tinus." The " Conversio Constantini ad Dominum 99 is recorded 
 in the 1 Annales Cambrige.' There is a life of St. Constantine in 
 the Aberdeen Breviary. 
 
 o 2 
 
228 
 
 same type established in Ireland by St. Patrick (who was 
 probably the nephew and disciple of St. Martin) and his 
 successors before the year 500. The " College " of St. 
 Paulinus at Whitchurch must have been of the same type ; 
 as was the famous monastery of Bangor Iscoed, in the 
 valley of the Dee, the inmates of which were slaughtered 
 by Ethelfrith of Northumbria before his attack on Chester 
 in 613. The vast numbers of the Coenobites (it does not 
 appear that they called themselves monks, or that they 
 were bound by any distinct vows) who are said to have 
 assembled in these " great choirs" (ban-chor, = the "chief 
 choir " w T as a general name) must be received with hesita- 
 tion ; but it is certain that they attracted large bodies of 
 students. 1 
 
 1 The description given by Sulpi'cius Severus, of the monastery 
 established by St. Martin near Tours, is worth inserting here, 
 since that monastery certainly supplied the type on which the 
 Irish and Welsh " choirs " were founded. Sulpicius, it must be 
 remembered, was the contemporary of St. Martin : — u Ali- 
 quamdiu ergo adhserente ad ecclesiam cellula usus est : deinde 
 cum inquietudinem frequentantium ferre non posset, duobus 
 fere extra civitatem milibus monasterium sibi statuit. Qui 
 locus tarn secretus et remotus erat, ut eremi solitudinem non 
 desideraret. Ex uno enim, latere, prsecisa montis excelsa rupe 
 ambiebatur : reliquam planiciem Liger fluvius reducto paullulum 
 sinu clauserat ; una tantum eademque arc! a admodum via 
 adiri poterat : ipse ex lignis contextam cellulam habebat. 
 Multi quidem e fratribus in eundem modum, plerique saxo 
 superjecti montis cavato, receptacula sibi fecerant. Discipuli 
 vero octoginta erant, qui ad exemplum beati magistri institue- 
 bantur. Nemo ibi quidquam proprium habebat : omnia in medio 
 conferebantur. Non emere aut vendere (ut plerisque monachis 
 moris est) quidquam licebat. Ars ibi, exceptis scriptoribus, 
 nulla habebatur ; cui tamen operi minor setas deputabatur; 
 majores orationi vacabant. B&rus cuiquam extra cellulam fuit 
 egressus, nisi cum. ad locum orationis conveniebant. Cibum 
 una omnes post horam jejunii accipiebant. Yinum nemo 
 
fife rf St. gafriir. 
 
 229 
 
 The lives of St. David are of course filled with miraculous 
 " signs and wonders " worked by the saint. On two occa- 
 sions a spring of pure water gushed forth at his prayer, — one 
 at the east end of the existing Cathedral, and one at Brawdy, 
 some miles distant. An angel completed the manuscript 
 of St. John's Gospel, which the saint was transcribing, and 
 which he left on being called to prayer. A loaded wain 
 and oxen, which had fallen over the precipitous side of the 
 Solva valley, were stopped by the sign of the cross made 
 by St. David ; and he took poisoned food without injury. 
 When at last it was fit that he should be consecrated 
 bishop, he was divinely ordered to make a pilgrimage to 
 Jerusalem. With him went Teilo and Paternus, founder 
 of the see of Llanbadarn, afterwards merged in that of St. 
 David's. St. David was consecrated by the Patriarch ; 
 and the three saints returned to Britain with many gifts and 
 with much rejoicing. St. David, as bishop, was present at 
 the synod of Llandewi-Brefi, assembled to confute the 
 Pelagian heretics ; and there appeared Dabricius, Archbi- 
 shop of Caerleon, who was anxious to resign his office. St. 
 David preached to the assembled multitude ; and as he spoke 
 the ground rose under him, so as to raise him above the 
 heads of the listeners. A snow-white dove, also, alighted 
 on his shoulder. He was chosen to be the successor of 
 Dubricius by universal acclamation. A second synod, 
 called the " Synodus Victorian," was then held at Caeiieon. 
 How long St. David survived his elevation we are not 
 informed. His death was foretold by angels and by him- 
 self; and full of years, — he had attained the patriarchal 
 age of 147, — he fell asleep on the Calends of March, after 
 singing the " Nunc Dimittis." 
 
 It would be impossible to extract the truth from this 
 
 noverat, nisi quern infirmitas coegisset. Plerique camelorum 
 setis vestiebantur. Mollior ibi habitus pro crimine erat." S. 
 Severus, 1 Vita B. Martini,' § vii. 
 
230 §it gift's (Catfetbral. 
 
 mass of legend. Many of the incidents are unusually gro- 
 tesque ; and the belief of Ricemarch's time seems to have 
 formed itself in accordance with a certain common tradition 
 found running through the written lives of most Welsh 
 saints." 1 But from other sources we gain some facts re- 
 lating to St. David, which may be accepted as authentic. 
 The ' Annales Cambrias ' refer the death of " David Episco- 
 pus " to the year 601 . n The same authority makes the 
 date of the second synod — the " Sy nodus Victorias " — to be 
 569 ; and certain documents preserved in the north of 
 France (obviously through Britanny) seem to be peniten- 
 tiary canons decreed at the two synods, and suggesting a 
 different purpose for them than the suppression of Pela- 
 gianism. The connection of St. David with Ireland is also 
 indicated by sufficient evidence , and the assertion that the 
 so-called " second order " of Irish saints received their canon 
 of the mass from David, Cadoc, and Gildas, may be accepted 
 as proved. p This " second order " had no connection with 
 Armagh or with the institutions of St. Patrick. To it 
 
 m " The Saint is the son of a local prince or chieftain. His 
 origin is rather scandalous. His birth is accompanied by signs 
 and wonders. He is placed under the immediate instruction of 
 a noted saint, and connected through him with Germanus and 
 Lupus. Several of the most celebrated centres of Christianity 
 are the work of his hand. Several of the most celebrated pro- 
 pagators of the faith are his own scholars. From his birth to 
 his death he is associated with great names. A worldly an- 
 tagonist, a moral antithesis, a Pharaoh, is raised up for him to 
 chastise and to destroy, and the Divine vengeance is made 
 manifest." Jones and Freeman, p. 250. Each of these points 
 is illustrated by references to the legends of various Welsh 
 saints. 
 
 n " David Episcopus Moni JudaBorum." Moni is Hen Meneu. 
 The " JudaBorum " is altogether inexplicable. 
 
 These penitentiaries will be found in Haddan and Stubbs, 
 ' Documents and Councils/ i. pp. 117-120. 
 
 p See the evidence in Haddan and Stubbs, i. p. 115. 
 
231 
 
 belonged St. Columba and the numerous Irish missionaries 
 Avho spread themselves throughout Europe from the end of 
 the sixth century to that of the eighth. From St. Columba 
 and Iona came those first bishops of Northumbria who 
 restored the faith in that English kingdom after the de- 
 parture (a.d. 633) of Paulinus and the extinction of the 
 Christianity introduced by him. ^Ve may thus recognize 
 the direct influence of the Welsh Church and especially of 
 St. David, not only in Ireland but throughout Scotland and 
 Northern England. In Wales itself, a triad — possibly of 
 earlier date than Ricemarch's life— classed St. David with 
 Padarn and Teilo as the " three blessed visitors of the Isle 
 of Britain." " They were so called because they went as 
 guests to the houses of the noble, the poor, the native, and 
 the stranger, without accepting fee or reward, victuals or 
 drink ; but what they did was to teach the faith in Christ 
 to everyone without pay or thanks; besides which they 
 gave to the poor and needy gifts of their gold and silver, 
 their raiment and provisions." St. David is the one Welsh 
 saint formally enrolled in the Western- Calendars, and even 
 he was not admitted until his canonization in a.d. 1120. 
 
 The country about St. David's is, as we have seen, full 
 of localities to which various incidents in the life of the 
 saint are referred. This, it is barely possible, may indicate 
 that, as the life asserts, he was a native of the district ; but 
 is certainly no proof of it. The incidents may, as is so 
 often the case, have been fitted to the localities. Dewis- 
 land — the land of David — as the hundred is still called, 
 seems to have been the patrimony of the Church from a 
 very early period. It was indeed, when St. David first 
 planted his monastery, remote from the " heathen English," 
 who had then advanced as far as the Severn ; but its wide 
 sea-coast afforded ready access to Ireland, to the u West 
 Welsh" of Damnonia, and to the Armoricans of Britanny, 
 with whom the Cymry of what is now the Principality kept 
 up much intercourse. A Roman road, the Via Julia, ex- 
 
232 
 
 Sit $ stub's <ffa%i>ral 
 
 tended along the southern coast from the neighbourhood of 
 Bristol to that of Caermarthen, and possibly as far as St. 
 David's. But no Roman remains have been found at St. 
 David's, and although Richard of Cirencester places on the 
 coast there a city, called " Menapia," his unsupported state- 
 ment carries with it no authority. The wild and secluded 
 country — secluded, yet with facilities for intercourse with 
 friendly and cognate races — was no doubt the inducement 
 which led St. David to found his monastery and his H bishop- 
 stool " in the valley of the Alan. With the exception of 
 the Land's End, St. David's Head, the Octopitarum of 
 Ptolemy, is the most westerly headland of Great Britain. 
 It is the point at which the British coast approaches most 
 nearly to that of Ireland, and the outlines of the Wicklow 
 hills are occasionally seen across the Channel, here not 
 quite fifty miles in breadth. The whole coast is guarded 
 by lofty walls of rock, belonging to the so-called Cam- 
 brian series — the most ancient sedimentary rocks known 
 to geologists. The surface formed by these rocks is com- 
 paratively level ; but over the district, sometimes parallel 
 with the coast, yet extending far inland, masses of igneous 
 rock, greenstones and porphyries, have broken upwards and 
 form rocky eminences, of no very great height, but occa- 
 sionally, as in Carn Llidi, of the grandest and boldest out- 
 line. The open country is intersected by deep valleys, 
 through which streamlets find their way to the sea, the 
 most important of which are the Solva and the Alan. The 
 latter is the river on which stands the Cathedral of St. 
 David's. Off the coast lie numerous rocky islands, the 
 largest of which is Ramsey, famous for its seals and its sea- 
 birds. The climate is unusually mild — the air soft, pure, 
 and bracing — facts which cannot have been without their 
 influence on the early settlement of the coast, or on St. 
 David's choice of the place for his monastery. 
 
 Nearly all the local sites connected with St. David 
 have already been mentioned. Capel Stinan = Justinian's 
 
233 
 
 Chapel, also deserves notice. The walls —of perpendicular 
 date and of plain architecture— are standing on the verge of 
 the cliffs looking across the Sound of Eamsey (see Part I., 
 § xxviii.). St. Justinian, according to his legend, was an 
 Armorican, who established himself as a hermit on Ramsey, 
 and became St. David's confessor. His servants killed him, 
 were struck with leprosy, and spent the rest of their days 
 in penitence on a rock, called the " Leper's Rock," in the 
 Sound. The body of Justinian walked across the Sound, 
 and landing at Porth Stinan, was buried where the chapel 
 now stands. Pilgrims who approached St. David's from 
 the North made their first offerings at the Chapel of the 
 Fathom (Part 1., § xxvm.). 
 
 From the death of St. David to the middle of the ninth 
 century little or nothing is recorded of the see. The names 
 of two bishops occur: Sadwrfe?i, who, according to the 
 6 Annales Cambria?,' died in 831, and Novis — uncle of 
 Asser, the biographer of King Alfred and the Bishop of Sher- 
 borne — whose episcopate began in 840. The ' Annales ' 
 also record the destruction of the monastery in 645, when 
 an invading army plundered Dyfed. q Some time before 
 the accession of Novis a change had taken place in the 
 limits of Demetia or Dyfed, which was then only conter- 
 minous with the present Archdeaconry of St. David's. 
 Its prince, Hyfeidd, plundered the Church and expelled the 
 clergy. Among those driven out was Novis and his nephew 
 Asser. The learning of the latter seems at this time to 
 have reached the ears of King Alfred, whose patronage of 
 Asser is a sufficient proof that the ancient zeal for letters 
 had not as yet departed from St. David's. Lhiniverth, the 
 successor of Novis, is said to have been consecrated by 
 iEthelred, Archbishop of Canterbury — an act which, re- 
 peated as it was on at least two subsequent occasions, 
 
 q " a. 645. Percussio Demeticse regionis, quando ccenobium 
 David incensum est." 
 
234 
 
 Si Jafrifa Ca%irraL 
 
 " appears to mark a complete though perhaps a temporary 
 subjection on the part of the Church of St. David's ; and 
 it would seem to be connected with the submission of the 
 South Welsh princes to the West Saxon monarch, and the 
 desire of the Menevian clergy to enlist him on their side." r 
 It is unnecessary to record here the few names of bishops 
 that have been preserved — names alone, and accompanied 
 by dates which are not always consistent, but which 
 together are sufficient fairly to prove the continuous exist- 
 ence of the see from St. David's time. In the latter half of 
 the tenth century the Northmen were constantly hovering 
 round the coast, and St. David's was often plundered by 
 them. 8 In 999, during one of these assaults, Bishop Mor- 
 geneu was killed ; a calamity which, according to a story 
 told by Giraldus, happened to him because he had relaxed 
 the ancient austerity of his predecessors, and had been in 
 the habit of eating meat.* The see and the monastery, 
 however, survived these and later misfortunes, such as the 
 destruction of 1011, when, whilst England was oppressed 
 by the Danes, Eadric, Ealdorman of the Mercians, entered 
 South Wales with an English army, and marching through 
 the whole country, devastated Menevia. u In 1071 Sulien, 
 called in the 4 Brut y Tywysogion' "the wisest of the 
 
 r Jones and Freeman, p. 262. 
 
 8 " 982. Gothrit et Haraldus vastaverunt Dewet et Meneviam." 
 " 988. Gentiles vastaverunt Meneviam." 
 " 993. Tertio Menevia vastata est." 
 
 " 999. Menevia vastata est a Gentilibus, et Morgeneu, epis. 
 ab eis occisus est." — ' Annal. Cambrise.' 
 
 * His spectre appeared to an Irish bishop, and told the story, 
 saying, "quia carnes comedi, caro f actus sum." Girald. 'Itin. 
 Cambrise,' ii. c. 1. 
 
 u Freeman's ' Norman Conquest,' i. p. 303. It is not certain 
 for what reason this expedition was undertaken, but it is con- 
 jectured that the wrath of the English over-lord was aroused 
 by a refusal on the part of the Welsh princes to contribute to the 
 Danegeld," 
 
mrtsh 235 
 
 Britons," became bishop. He was a native of Llanbadarn- 
 fawr, and had passed many years in study in Scotland and 
 Ireland. The year after his accession he resigned the see, 
 and was succeeded by Abraham, who, 1078, was killed by 
 the Northmen, once more plunderers of Menevia. Sulien 
 resumed his 4 4 bishops tool ;" and, probably in the year 1081, 
 he received the Norman William, who, entering Wales no 
 doubt as a conqueror, made his way to St. David's, and 
 with perhaps a mixture of policy and devotion, offered at 
 the shrine as a pilgrim/ Sulien died in 1088, and in the 
 same year Menevia was plundered by " heathen " — North- 
 men or Irish Danes — and entirely destroyed/ But the 
 Church rose once more. Sulien had been a married clerk, 
 and his son Rhyddmarch, or Ricemarch, the biographer of 
 St. David, succeeded him. Rhyddmarch also was married. 
 In his days, and in those of his father Sulien, the school of 
 learning at St. David's was very famous, and seems to 
 have been at least equal to that of the time of St. David. 
 After Rhyddmarch, according to the Welsh annals, " in- 
 struction for scholars ceased at Menevia." His successor 
 was a person variously named Wilfrid, Griffri, and Geoff ry 
 —all possibly English renderings of the Welsh Gruff yd. 
 His episcopate was a stormy one, and he was compelled to 
 grant away to Norman invaders part of the lordship of 
 Dewisland, as well as more distant possessions. It may 
 have been for his compliance in this matter that he was 
 suspended and restored by Archbishop Anselm. 2 On his 
 death in 1115 the clerks of St. David's elected Daniel, 
 another son of Bishop Sulien, to succeed him. But the see 
 of St. David's could no longer be neglected by the Normans, 
 who were now firmly established in the country. Foreign 
 bishops had already been intruded on Bangor and Llandaff. 
 Daniel was set aside and became Archdeacon of Powys, 
 
 x Freeman's ' Norman Conquest,' iv. p. 680. 
 y " Menevia frangitur et destruitur a Gentilibus." ' Ann. 
 Cambr.' z Eadmer, ii. p. 33. 
 
236 
 
 St. $afrib's <Ka%braL 
 
 where he was celebrated as a peacemaker among the tur- 
 bulent chieftains.* 
 
 Thus, in the year 1115, ends the history of the purely 
 British Church at St. David's. How far the coenobitical 
 or monastic system established by St. David had remained 
 in force with the clerks and scholars of the church, remains 
 uncertain. The story of Bishop Morgeneu indicates that 
 the primitive austerity had at least been relaxed. Giraldus 
 asserts that before the time of Bishop Bernard, the clerks 
 of St. David's were not known as monks or as canons, but 
 only as " Glaswyr," i. e. Eglwyswyr = Churchmen. 
 
 For the claim* of St. David's to metropolitical authority 
 in Wales, see the general Introduction to the present 
 volume. The laws of Hywel Dda, set forth after the great 
 convocation of Welsh notables at Whitland Abbey, during 
 the episcopate of Llunwerth, mention " seven Episcopal 
 houses " in Dyfed, all of which were conventual establish- 
 ments, but with respect to which it is uncertain whether 
 they were ruled by abbots alone, or whether each house 
 had its bishop, subordinate to the see of St. David's ; which 
 in the same laws is called the primatial see of Wales ; 
 . whilst Llunwerth is called an Archbishop. (See Introd.) 
 How far the British Church of St. David's, before the 
 accession of Bernard, was independent of the metro- 
 politan see of Canterbury is not clear. It seems probable 
 that it "possessed an irregular and precarious liberty, 
 analogous to that which was held by the native princes in 
 temporal matters — real, when nobody interfered with it, 
 but shrinking into the very smallest dimensions on the 
 approach of an aggressor." b 
 
 a Bishop Sulien and his sons are celebrated in a curious 
 poem in Latin hexameters, subjoined to a MS. of St. Augustine 
 1 de Trinitate,' written by Jevan or Sulien, one of the sons. 
 (C. C. C. Library, Cambridge, No. 199.) The poem is printed 
 at length in Haddan and Stubbs, 1 Councils,' vol. i. p. 663. 
 
 b Jones and Freeman, p. 270. 
 
237 
 
 [a.d. 1115 — 1147.] Bernard, the first Norman bishop, had 
 been the chaplain of " good queen Molde," the wife of 
 Henry I. He was, says Eadmer, "vir probus, et mul- 
 torum jndicio sacerdotio dignus " — a man of brilliant talents 
 and courtly manners, according to Giraldus. He left his 
 Cathedral as he found it; but, instead of the ancient Welsh 
 clergy (who may have continued up to this time, however 
 imperfectly, the traditions of St. David's " monastery "), 
 he established a set of Canons (without a Dean), whose 
 means of living were but small. d Bishop Bernard was long 
 in controversy with Urban, Bishop of Llandaff, respecting 
 the limits of their respective dioceses — Urban claiming the 
 entire region lying between the rivers Neath and Towy, 
 with a portion of Brecknockshire. (For the whole question 
 see the ' Liber Landavensis.') The disputed territory was 
 finally adjudged by Pope Innocent II. to St. David's, 
 within which diocese it has ever since remained. Bernard 
 also raised or revived a claim of metropolitan authority for 
 his see (see Introduction to this volume), and, therefore, of 
 its independence of Canterbury. The question remained 
 unsettled at his death. The Canons then in Chapter elected 
 a Welshman as his successor; but Archbishop Theobald 
 set aside this election, and appointed 
 
 [a.d. 1148—1176] David Fitzgerald^ a personage of mixed 
 race, the son of Gerald of Windsor, Castellan of Pembroke, 
 and of Nesta, daughter of Rhys ap Tewdwr. Bishop David 
 is said to have "impoverished his church" greatly; and 
 
 c ' Hist. Novor.' v. 
 
 d " Menevensem enim ecclesiam rudem hie (Bernardus) prorsus 
 et inordinatam invenit. Clerici nainque loci illius, qui 
 Glaswyr [= Eglwys-wyr], id est Viri Ecclesiastici, vocabantur, 
 barbaris ritibus absque ordine et regula Ecclesiso bonis enor- 
 miter incumbebant. Canonicos hie igitur primus instituit, et 
 canonicas quanquam miseras nimis et minutas, utpote plus 
 militaris in multis quam clericalis existens, ordinavit." Giraldus 
 Cambr. 'de Jure et statu Eccles. Menev.' 
 
238 
 
 ^t.Jabiir's Ca%braL 
 
 the Cathedral, according to his unknown biographer, was 
 shut up during the greater part of his episcopate. In his 
 time (1171 — 1172) Henry II. visited St. David's as a pil- 
 grim, on his way to, and on his return from, Ireland. On 
 the first occasion he offered "two choral copes of velvet, 
 intended for the singers in serving God and St. David ; 
 and he also offered a handful of silver — about ten shil- 
 • lings." 6 
 
 [a.d. 1176—1198.] Peter de Leia, Prior of Wenlpck, suc- 
 ceeded. It is to him that, as we have seen (Part I.), the 
 commencement of the existing Cathedral must be assigned. 
 
 Peter de Leia was, however, forced upon the Chapter of 
 St. David's. The Chapter, without waiting for the King's 
 Conge d'Eslire, nominated their ow T n four archdeacons, 
 desiring that the king should select one of them. But to 
 this arrangement Henry II. would by no means consent. 
 He ordered that the canons should be at once deprived of 
 their revenues ; and then, compelling them to appear before 
 him at Winchester, he obliged them to receive as their 
 bishop, Peter de Leia, the Cluniac Prior of Wenlock. He 
 took the oath of obedience to Canterbury ; and during his 
 episcopate the claims of St. David's to be independent of 
 the English Metropolitan were only kept alive by a protest 
 made by the canons at the third Lateran Council in 1179. 
 Bishop Peter was very unpopular, especially with the 
 Welsh part of his flock ; and he was compelled to pass 
 the greater part of his time in England, the affairs of the 
 diocese being administered by a series of officials. Yet it is 
 certain that the Norman Cathedral was begun, and pro- 
 bably far advanced, during his episcopate. 
 
 Of the four archdeacons nominated by the Chapter, the 
 first and the most prominent was Gerald de Barry — the 
 famous and irrepressible Giraldus Cambrensis — youngest 
 son of William de Barry, Lord of Manorbeer, and Angharad 
 
 e ' Brut y Ty wysogion.' 
 
239 
 
 his wife, daughter of Gerald de Windsor. Gerald, " active, 
 bustling, and forward, blessed with a considerable amount 
 of superfluous energy, and restrained by no kind of modesty, 
 but rather supported in his really very arduous under- 
 takings by an overweening self-admiration," f had fully 
 expected to have succeeded his uncle, David Fitzgerald, in 
 the see of St. David's. On this he had set his heart ; and, 
 with the expectation of eventually gaining it, he refused 
 several bishoprics in Ireland, whither he accompanied 
 Prince John, son of Henry II., besides the Welsh sees of 
 Bangor and Llandaff, both of which were offered to him. 
 In 1187 he accompanied Baldwin, Archbishop of Can- 
 terbury, on his tour through Wales to preach the crusade ; 
 and his * Itinerarium Kambriae ' was the result of these 
 labours. On the death of Peter de Leia the Chapter nomi- 
 nated four candidates, Gerald being again the first. But 
 he had been an active supporter of the independence of 
 St. David's, and Archbishop Hubert, of Canterbury, alto- 
 gether refused to receive him as a candidate, and proposed 
 two new ones — Geoffry de Henlawe, Prior of Llanthony, 
 and a Cistercian monk named Alexander. But the Canons 
 of St. David's refused either. After some further negotia- 
 tions Gerald was chosen in full Chapter ; and it was repre- 
 sented to him that he might seek consecration at the hands 
 of the Pope — thus avoiding the oath of obedience to Can- 
 terbury. He was disposed to consent ; when a royal 
 mandate arrived, ordering the Canons to choose Geoffry de 
 Henlawe. If they failed to do so, the Archbishop would 
 dispense with the election, and proceed to consecrate him 
 at once. The Chapter appealed to Rome, whither Gerald 
 proceeded. This was the first of three journeys made by 
 him to Kome, where the Pope long played with him, pro- 
 mising and withdrawing his support. The Canons of 
 St. David's, too, would not maintain their first choice, and, 
 
 f Jones and Freeman, 4 Hist, of St. David's,' p. 281. 
 
240 St. gabib's Ca%kal. 
 
 during one of Gerald's long absences, made a fresh election 
 in the person of the Abbot of St. Dogmaels. Both elections 
 were at length quashed by the Pope ; and in November, 
 1203 (five years after the death of Peter de Leia), the 
 Chapter, meeting in St. Catherine's Chapel in Westminster 
 Abbey, finally chose Geoffry de Henlawe. Gerald was 
 weary of the struggle, and. retired altogether from eccle- 
 siastical affairs. He resigned his archdeaconry to his 
 nephew, William de Barry, and thenceforth devoted him- 
 self entirely to literature. The year of his death is not 
 certainly known, but it was probably 1219, The works of 
 Gerald de Barry, who has been well called the Burnet of 
 his age — brilliant, bustling, and somewhat unscrupulous 
 where his adversaries were concerned — have been edited 
 by Mr. Brewer, in the series of documents and chronicles 
 published under the direction of the Master of the Polls. 
 
 [a.d. 1203 — 1214.] Of Geoffry de Henlawe little is known 
 but from the writings of Gerald — hardly to be trusted in 
 this matter. He is- described as- a great oppressor of his 
 clergy, as a great dilapidator, and as much involved in 
 what appeared to be simony. At his death the Canons, 
 who on the revocation of the Interdict of 1207 had, with 
 the rest of the Cathedral Chapters, been guaranteed freedom 
 of election, chose a Welshman. 
 
 [a.d. 1215 — 1229.] Jorwerth (called also Gervas), Abbot of 
 Talley, in Carmarthenshire. The earliest statutes extant for 
 the government of the Cathedral belong to his episcopate. 
 His three successors, like himself, were more or less con- 
 nected with the country. They were — 
 
 [a.d. 1231 — 1247.] Anselm, called le Gras, a near kinsman 
 of William de la Grace, Earl of Pembroke, generally called 
 William Marshall. 
 
 [a.d. 1248 — 1255.] Thomas the Welchman (Wallensis); 
 and 
 
 [a.d. 1256 — 1280.] Richard de Carew, consecrated at Rome, 
 and perhaps of foreign extraction, but born most likely at 
 
241 
 
 Carew in Pembrokeshire. It was this Bishop Richard who 
 caused to be constructed the new feretory for St. David's 
 relics (Part I.) ; and, from offerings at the shrine and 
 o£her sources, we must conclude that funds were procured 
 during all the period since the episcopate of Peter de Leia 
 for the advance of the Cathedral building. 
 
 The see of St. David's, toward the end of the thirteenth 
 century, had acquired a certain reputation and distinction, 
 and the bishops who follow Richard de Carew filled, many 
 of them, prominent civil positions. The first of these is 
 [a.d. 1280 — 1293.] Thomas Beck, who, before his election, 
 had been Lord Treasurer, Chancellor of the University of 
 Oxford, Keeper of the King's Wardrobe, and Keeper of the 
 Great Seal during the absence of Edward I. from England 
 in 1279. Thomas Beck was brother of that "mighty 
 clerk " Anthony Beck, Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of 
 Jerusalem ; and on the day of his consecration, at Lincoln, 
 to the see of St, David's (the Octave of St. Michael, 1280), 
 he defrayed the entire cost of the translation of the body of 
 St. Hugh of Lincoln to its shrine in the new Presbytery. 
 
 Archbishop Peckham in 1284 held a visitation as Metro- 
 politan throughout the dioceses of Wales ; and on this 
 occasion the Bishop of St. David's claimed to be exempt 
 from his jurisdiction. This was the last attempt at inde- 
 pendence made by the see, and it was altogether unsuc- 
 cessful. The Archbishop's visitation was held without 
 disturbance. 
 
 " Bishop Beck extended the cathedral foundation, and, 
 as regards the number of the individuals composing the 
 corporation, brought it to its present condition." 8 He 
 established also within his diocese the two Colleges of 
 Llangadoc — afterwards removed to Abergwili — and of 
 Llandewi-Brefi. The W T elsh Chronicle asserts that Bishop 
 Beck " sang a mass at Strata Florida, and this was the first 
 
 6 Jones and Freeman, p. 299. 
 
 n 
 
242 
 
 mass sung in the diocese" — meaning, probably, that a 
 more florid style of music was then introduced than had 
 before been usual. 
 
 [a.d. 1296 — 1328.] David Martyn, otherwise called David 
 of St. Edmund's, succeeded. Like Beck, he had been 
 Chancellor of Oxford. He added the Lady Chapel at the 
 east end of the Cathedral (Part I.) ; but was less distin- 
 guished as a builder than his successor. 
 
 [a.d. 1328—1347.] Henry Gower. He did much for the 
 fabric of the Cathedral (Part I.), and was the builder 
 of the magnificent Palace (Part I.), the ruins of which 
 still attest the importance of St. David's, and the attrac- 
 tion of its great shrine, at this period. He was also the 
 founder of a hospital at Swansea; and it is probable — 
 as his surname seems to indicate — that he was a native of 
 that town, or of its neighbourhood. Little is recorded 
 of him, although he has "left, on the whole, more exten- 
 sive traces of his mind at St. David's than any bishop who 
 has occupied the see, either before or since." h He had 
 been Chancellor of Oxford, and is said, but this is doubtful, 
 to have been for a time Lord High Chancellor of England. 
 The period of his episcopate would appear to have been 
 chiefly passed by him at St. David's, where he must have 
 been greatly occupied in building, and re-modelling the 
 work of his predecessors. The peculiar style of Decorated 
 Architecture which he seems to have originated has been 
 described in Part I. His successor — 
 
 [a.d. 1347—1350.] John Thoresby, had held the Great 
 Seal, and had been Master of the Rolls. In the second 
 year of his consecration he became Lord Chancellor. In 
 1350 he was translated to Worcester, and thence to York 
 in 1352. He died in 1373. (Sec York Cathedral, Part II., 
 for a farther account of him.) The two next bishops — 
 
 [a.d. 1350— trans, to Worcester 1352 ; died 1361.] Reginald 
 Brian; and 
 
 h Jones and Freeman, p. 303. 
 
gmtali to Clji^eUg. 243 
 
 [a.d. 1352 — 1361.] Thomas Fastolf, need only be named. 
 Little or nothing is known of them. 
 
 [a.d. 1362 — 1389.] Adam Houghton had been Lord Chan- 
 cellor. He built and endowed the College of St. Mar}' 
 (Part I.), and added the cloisters which connected it with 
 the Cathedral. The first establishment of the Cathe- 
 dral School and the endowment of the choristers is also 
 due to him. There is a story of his having been excom- 
 municated by the Pope, and having excommunicated the 
 Pontiff in turn ; and this is said to have been represented 
 in the stained glass of his College Chapel. But it is 
 possible that the legend was invented to account for an 
 otherwise unintelligible representation ; or the Pontiff may 
 have been the Anti-Pope Eobert of Geneva, who reigned 
 at Avignon as Clement VII. But the story rests on no 
 sufficient foundation. On Bishop Houghton's death Kichard 
 Mitford was named as his successor, but was set aside by 
 the Pope (he afterwards became bishop successively of 
 Chichester and Salisbury), and, after a vacancy of more 
 than a year, 
 
 [a.d. 1389 — 1397.] John Gilbert succeeded. He was a 
 Dominican, and had been bishop successively of Bangor 
 and Hereford. Before his translation to St. David's he had 
 served as Lord Treasurer, and soon afterwards became 
 Treasurer for the second time. He was one of twelve Com- 
 missioners appointed to govern the kingdom in the name of 
 Richard II. At St. David's he first codified the various 
 ordinances by which the Cathedral was governed. 
 
 [a.d. 1397 — 1407.] Guy de Mohun had been Keeper of the 
 Privy Seal, and was twice Treasurer during his episcopate. 
 He attended the Council of Pisa, and was succeeded there 
 and in the see of St. David's by 
 
 [a.d. 1408 — 1414.] Henry Chicheley, trans, to Canterbury, 
 the Archbishop of Shakespeare's Henry V., the founder of 
 All Souls' and St. Bernard's Colleges at Oxford, and the 
 rebuilder of his native Church of Higham Ferrers in North- 
 
 R 2 
 
244 
 
 amptonshire, which he made Collegiate. For a full notice 
 of him see Canterbury Cathedral, Part II. 
 
 " Of the ten prelates included between Beck and Chiche- 
 ley, one" (Thoresby — but this is very doubtful) "is said 
 to have been a Cardinal, two became Archbishops, two, 
 perhaps three, held the office of Lord Chancellor, three 
 that of Lord Treasurer, two of them more than once; 
 three were Keepers of the Privy Seal, one was Master of 
 the Polls, three were Chancellors of the University of 
 Oxford. All but two held distinguished civil positions 
 of one kind or another ; most of them are among the prin- 
 cipal benefactors of their church and diocese ; more than 
 one have a historical reputation. It is evident that the 
 see, from some cause or other, was regarded as one of the 
 highest ecclesiastical positions in the realm ; and it would 
 seem, among other things, that its endowments had con- 
 siderably increased in value since the time that Giraldus 
 regarded it as unworthy of his acceptance in a pecuniary 
 point of view, and even since the days of Thomas Wallen- 
 sis, when it was considered, according to Browne Willis, ' a 
 miserable poor thing.' This supposition is confirmed by 
 the fact of Bishop Gilbert's translation hither from Bangor 
 and Hereford. During the same period two translations 
 only took place from St. David's to any suffragan see, and 
 one of those was occasioned by the removal of a prelate, 
 previously translated thence, to an archbishopric." 1 
 
 It is not less certain that, for some equally obscure reason, 
 the see declined in public importance after the translation 
 of Chicheley. The prelates which follow, until the religious 
 changes of the sixteenth century, are by no means so dis- 
 tinguished as those of the former asra. It is to be remarked 
 that the change to the more important sera "nearly syn- 
 chronizes with the final subjugation of the Principality by 
 Edward L; while the third" (that on which we now enter) 
 
 1 Jones and Freeman, pp. 305-6. 
 
§ps. Catteritk to Parihr. 
 
 245 
 
 • " commences soon after the complete degradation of the 
 Welsh people in consequence of the rebellion of Owen 
 Glyndwr; which lasted until their emancipation in the 
 twenty-seventh year of Henry VIII." k This new sera 
 begins with 
 
 [a.d. 1414 — trans, to Coventry 1415.] John Catterick. 
 From Coventry he passed to Exeter in 1419. 
 
 [a.d. 1415 — trans, to Chichester in 1417, in which year he 
 died], Stephen Patrington. 
 
 [a.d. 1418—1433.] Benedict Nicolls, was translated to 
 St. David's from Bangor. 
 
 [a.d. 1434 — 1442.] Thomas Eudborne. 
 
 [a.d. 1442 — 1446.] William Lyndwood. This was the 
 famous canonist whose reputation had been earned long- 
 before his elevation to the see. 
 
 [a.d. 1447 — died in the same year.] John Langton had 
 been Chancellor of Cambridge. 
 
 [a.d. 1447 — resigned in 1460.] John Delabere, Lord 
 Almoner. Of him it is recorded that he never saw his 
 diocese ; but, says Browne Willis, he " committed the care 
 of his bishoprick to one Griffin Nicholas son to Eichard 
 Fitz Thomas, a stout knight." This " Griffin " or GrurTydd 
 was, however, not the son, but the father, of the " stout 
 knight" Sir Ehys ap Thomas. Bishop Delabere lived 
 entirely in Oxfordshire, where he built Dorchester Bridge. 
 His successor was 
 
 [a.d. 1460 — 1481.] Eobert Tully, who was never in pos- 
 session of the temporalities. This, like Delabere's resigna- 
 tion, may have been owing to the political troubles of the 
 time. 
 
 [a.d. 1482 — 1483.] Eichard Martin had been Chancellor of 
 Ireland and Ambassador to France and Spain. He is said 
 to have enjoyed in a remarkable degree the personal regard 
 of Edward IV. 
 
 k Jones and Freeman, p. 307. 
 
246 
 
 [a.d. 1483 — trans, to Salisbury 1485.] Thomas Langton. 
 He passed from Salisbury to Winchester in 1493, and died 
 in 1501. Bishop Langton was the most distinguished per- 
 sonage who had filled the see since Chicheley; but his 
 history belongs to Salisbury and Winchester. 
 
 [a.d. 1485—1496.] Hugh Pavy. 
 
 [a.d, 1496 — 1504.] John Morgan. He was the " first 
 bishop of Welsh lineage probably since Iorwerth, and cer- 
 tainly since Thomas Wallensis. The fact of his appointment 
 to the see, and that of Edward Vaughan, who followed his 
 immediate successor, shows that national differences in 
 Wales had now virtually given way to distinctions of class 
 and that the better Welsh families were beginning to hold 
 a co-ordinate position with those of the rest of the kingdom. 
 It is true that their political disqualifications were not 
 wholly removed till a somewhat later period, but their 
 social position must have been considerably ameliorated by 
 the extraordinary advancement of the Tudor family." 1 
 
 j-a.d. 1505 — trans, to Chichester 1508.] Eobert Sherborne 
 (See ' Chichester Cathedral,' Part II.). 
 
 [a.d. 1509 — 1522.] Edward Vaughan ; had been Treasurer 
 of St. Paul's, London, where he built a house for his suc- 
 cessors in the stall. He was a great builder in his diocese. 
 In the Cathedral he constructed the chapel which bears 
 his name, and the roof of the Lady Chapel and its ante- 
 chapel (Part I.). St. Justinian's Chapel on the coast 
 (Part I.) ; the chapel of Llawhaden Castle, and probably 
 the chapel at Lamphey were also his work. Bishop 
 Vaughan was clearly an active and, in the words of 
 Browne Willis, " a most public spirited " man. 
 
 [a.d. 1523 — 1536.] Richard Rawlins, who succeeded, was 
 according to Anthony a Wood, " deprived of his warden- 
 ship of Merton College by the Archbishop of Canterbury, 
 for many unworthy misdemeanours .... and soon after, 
 
 1 Jones and Freeman, p. 308. 
 
Spxipfjop garlofrr. 
 
 247 
 
 because he should not be a loser, had the bishoprick of St. 
 David's conferred upon him." m He had accompanied 
 Henry VIII. in the French war, and became Lord Almoner 
 in 1514, on the promotion of Wolsey to York. 
 
 [a.d. 1536 — trans, to Bath 1549.] William Barlow, passed 
 from Bath to Chichester in 1559, and died in 1569. He 
 had been Prior of Haverfordwest ; and, after he became 
 bishop, was accused of maintaining novel opinions on the 
 church, purgatory, and auricular confession. He held by 
 the new teaching ; was deprived of Bath and Wells under 
 Mary, and restored by Elizabeth to his episcopal functions 
 at Chichester. At St. David's he did considerable mis- 
 chief, and removed the lead from some portions of the 
 Palace (probably from the great hall), thereby beginning the 
 work which eventually led to its complete ruin. Barlow's 
 five daughters were married to five bishops ; and a St. 
 David's tradition asserts that he removed the lead to supply 
 their marriage portions. But this is at least improbable, 
 since the daughters were portioned off at a much later 
 period. Bishop Barlow also alienated the manor of Lam- 
 phey, which he granted to Henry VIII. , by whom it was 
 passed to Kichard Devereux, ancestor of the Devereux Earls 
 of Essex. The see itself " had a narrow escape of being 
 removed to Caermarthen. Barlow's letter to Cromwell on 
 this subject strongly urges the removal, partly on account 
 of the inconvenient situation, and partly because the hopes 
 of Protestantism rested on getting rid of the religio loci." n 
 From this time, although the place of the see was happily 
 unchanged, St. David's gradually ceased (and perhaps not 
 less happily) to be an episcopal residence. The bishops 
 have for the most part resided either on their Deanery of 
 Brecon, or at Abergwili. 
 
 [a.d. 1548 — 1555.] Robert Ferrar was one of the victims 
 
 m ' Athense Oxonienses,' i. 671. 
 n Jones and Freeman, p. 330. 
 
248 m. $afni>'8 <ta%bral 
 
 of tlie Marian persecution, and was burnt at Caermarthen 
 in 1555. He had got into trouble, however, during the 
 reign of Edward VI., when, among other charges, that of 
 " folly " was brought against him, — involving the points 
 of " wearing a hat, christening his child Samuel, whistling 
 to the said child, whistling to a seal in Milford Haven," 
 and other enormities. The Bishop retorted the charge of 
 folly on his accusers. He was, says Fuller, "a man not 
 unlearned, but somewhat indiscreet, or rather uncomply- 
 ing, which procured him much trouble : so that he may be 
 said, with St. Lawrence, to be broyled on both sides, being 
 persecuted both by Protestants and Papists." 
 
 [a.d. 1554 — 1559.] Henry Morgan : a native of Dewisland, 
 and Chancellor of Llandaff. 
 
 [a.d. 1560— trans, to York 1561.] Thomas Young : a native 
 of Pembrokeshire, born at Hodgeston, of which place he 
 became Eector. He was also Precentor of St. David's, 
 and a Prebendary of Brecon, — holding all his preferments 
 in commendam with the see. 
 
 [a.d. 1561 — 1581.] Bichard Davies : was translated from 
 St. Asaph. He procured the translation of the Bible into 
 Welsh ; but alienated much of the patronage of his see. 
 
 [a.d. 1582 — deposed 1590.] Marmaduke Middleton was 
 translated from Waterford. He was deposed for uttering 
 a forged will, and died in 1592. In his time the palace of 
 St. David's was still habitable, though Bishop Middleton did 
 not admire it. " The present bishop," writes Holinshed, 
 " misliketh verie much of the cold situation of his cathedral 
 church : and therefore he would gladlie pull it downe, and 
 set it in a warmer place : but it would first be learned 
 what suertie he would put in to see it well performed." 
 
 [a.d. 1594 — 1615.] Antony Kudd : of whom little or nothing 
 is recorded. 
 
 [a.d. 1615 — trans, to Carlisle 1621.] Richard Milbourne 
 
 1 Worthies ' : Wales. 
 
§p. ! nub to f log*. 249 
 
 (died 1624). In 1616 he obtained leave to " demolish " 
 the palace at St. David's; and perhaps unroofed part of it. 
 The walls of course he did not touch. 
 
 [a.d. 1621— trans, to Bath 1626.] William Laud held the 
 see for a time, with much other preferment. From Bath he 
 passed to London in 1628, and thence to Canterbury in 
 1633. He was beheaded, Jan. 10, 1645. 
 
 [a.d. 1627 — trans, to Hereford 1635.] Theophilus Field; 
 passed to St. David's from Llandaff. 
 
 [a.d. 1636 — 1653.] Eoger Mainwarihg : buried at Brecon, 
 where the bishops seem to have chiefly resided at this time. 
 The bishopric from this period was bestowed without any 
 regard to its peculiar circumstances, or to the benefit of 
 the diocese, but was treated simply as a step to richer 
 episcopal preferment. Mainwaring's appointment is of 
 some historical importance, having been made by Charles 
 1. in the teeth of the disqualification passed upon him by 
 Parliament on account of his famous sermon in support 
 passive obedience. The see remained vacant after Bishop 
 Mainwaring's death till 
 
 [a.d. 1660—1677.] William Lucy received it after the 
 Beformation. He belonged to the ancient family of Lucy 
 of Charlcote in Warwickshire ; and the inscription on his 
 monument in the Collegiate Church of Brecon, describes 
 him as " sacra infula dignissimus .... Ecclesiae Anglicana3 
 fulgebat sidus lucidum verbi Divini .... schismatis et 
 ha3resium averruncator .... sedis Menevensis ingens 
 ornamentum." The church contains a far more elaborate 
 monument for his son, who died Chancellor of St. David's 
 in 1690. It is to a member of the same family that the 
 Cathedral of St. David's is indebted for the superb mosaics 
 which fill the window spaces above the altar. (Part I.) 
 
 [a.d. 1678— trans, to Worcester 1683, died 1689.] William 
 Thomas. 
 
 [a.d. 1683 — 1686.] Laurence Womock. 
 [a.d. 1686—1687.] John Lloyd. 
 
250 
 
 [a.d. 1687— deprived 1699 ; died 1717.] Thomas Watson. 
 He is said to have fallen into disgrace with his canons 
 from his attempts to insist on their residence, and on their 
 repairing and restoring the Cathedral and their own houses. 
 They procured his deprivation. He was tried in 1699 for 
 simony by Archbishop Tenison and six bishops, when the 
 sentence was passed on him. He died on his own estate 
 of Great Wilbraham in Cambridgeshire, excommunicate, 
 and was buried without any service of the church ; not for 
 any of his real or imputed offences, but because he had not 
 paid certain fees to the Archbishop's officers. Bishop 
 Watson was an earnest adherent of King James ; and 
 Burnet (' Hist, of his own Time ') represents him as " one 
 of the worst men in all respects that I ever knew in holy 
 orders,"— a sentence which, it must be remembered, comes 
 from King William's bishop. 
 
 [a.d. 1705 — 1710.] George Bull ; one of the great lights of 
 the English church ; and one of the most illustrious names 
 in the list of the bishops of St. David's. 
 
 George Bull, a member of an old Somersetshire family, 
 was born at Wells in 1634. He was educated at Wells 
 and at Tiverton, and afterwards passed to Exeter College, 
 Oxford. Kefusing to take the oath to the Commonwealth, 
 he left Oxford in 1649 ; and when aged 21 was, on the 
 same day, ordained deacon and priest by Dr. Skinner, the 
 ejected bishop of Oxford. He was for some time vicar of 
 St. George's, near Bristol, a small benefice worth about SOL 
 a year ; and in 1658 became Eector of Suddington St. 
 Mary, near Cirencester. After the Kestoration, in 1662, 
 he was presented by the Lord Chancellor to the vicarage of 
 Suddington St. Peter's. Here he remained for twenty-seven 
 years, and here he wrote nearly all his works : the 4 Har- 
 monia Apostolica' was published in 1669, and the famous 
 ' Defensio Fidei Nicenae ' in 1685. In 1694 appeared his 
 4 Judicium Ecclesias Catholicse.' Besides his vicarage of 
 Suddington he held a prebendal stall at Gloucester, the 
 
gp. §nu to Smallfejell. 251 
 
 rectory of Averring in Gloucestershire, and the archdeaconry 
 of Llandaff. After his appointment to St. David's he re- 
 moved into the diocese, and spent the greater part of his 
 time there. It is only to he regretted that he did not 
 obtain the see earlier in life, so that it might have reaped 
 the full benefit of his energies. 
 
 [a.d. 1710 — trans, to Hereford 1713.] Philip Bisse. 
 
 [a.d. 1713 — 1723.] Adam Ottley : to whom Browne Willis 
 dedicates his ' Survey of St. David's Cathedral.' He was 
 a man of much primitive piety ; active in the visitation 
 of his Cathedral, and anxious to restore the palace at St. 
 David's. This he did not attempt : but he repaired the 
 palace at Abergwili, and fitted up the chapel there. At 
 his death he ordered, " out of his great humility," that his 
 body should be buried in Abergwili churchyard. 
 
 [a.d. 1724 — trans, to Lichfield 1731.] Kichard Small- 
 brooke. 
 
 [a.d. 1731 — trans, to Gloucester in the same year.] Elias 
 Sydall. 
 
 [a.d. 1732 — trans, to Exeter 1742.] Nicholas Clagett. 
 [a.d. 1743 — trans, to Bath in the same year ; died 17 73. J 
 
 Edward Willes. 
 [a.d. 1744 — trans, to Durham 1752.] Richard Trevor, 
 [a.d. 1753—1761.] Antony Ellis, 
 [a.d. 1761—1766.] Samuel Squire. 
 
 [a.d. 1766 — trans, to Oxford in the same year, and thence to 
 London in 1777 ; died 1787.J Robert Lowth, author of 
 the lectures ' De Sacra Poesi Hebraeorum,' and of the 
 ' Translation of Isaiah.' 
 
 [a.d. 1766— trans, to Bath 1774.] Charles Moss. 
 
 [a.d. 1774— trans, to Gloucester 1779, thence to Ely, 1781 ; 
 died 1808.] James Yorke. 
 
 [a.d. 1779 — trans, to Bangor 1783.] John Warren. 
 
 [a.d. 1783 — trans, to Oxford 1788.] Edward Smallwell. 
 
 [a.d. 1788 — trans, to Rochester 1793, thence to St. Asaph 
 
252 
 
 1802.] Samuel Hoksley, the famous opponent of Dr. 
 Priestley. 
 
 [a.d. 1794 — trans, to Armagh 1800.] William Stuart, son 
 of the Marquis of Bute. 
 
 [a.d. 1801 — 1803.] Lord George Murray. 
 
 [a.d. 1803— trans, to Salisbury 1825 ; died 1837.] Thomas 
 Burgess. He found the see, as might have been reasonably 
 expected, in a neglected condition ; and before his transla- 
 tion to Salisbury he " originated and brought into action 
 several important measures of improvement, which have 
 been further developed and borne fruit under the govern- 
 ment of his successors." p 
 
 [a.d. 1825 — 1840.] John Banks Jenkinson ; and 
 
 [a.d. 1840 — Connop Thirlwall. ,/ 
 
 p Jones and Freeman, p. 337. 
 
 In the head of Triforium, St. David's. 
 
SAINT ASAPH'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
ST ASAPH'S CATHEDRAL. EXTERIOR, FROM S.W. 
 
PLAN OF ST. ASAPH'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
ST. ASAPH'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 T For the history of the See of St. Asaph, or, as it 
 ^* was generally called, Llanelwy, from the posi- 
 tion of the church above the river Elwy, the reader 
 
 a There is little direct evidence for the architectural history 
 of St. Asaph's. The fullest collection of documents relating to 
 the Church will be found in Browne Willis's ' Survey of the 
 Cathedral Church of St. Asaph,' published in 1720. This book 
 contains a tolerable description of the building as it existed at 
 that time. In Storer's 'Cathedrals,' published in 1814, will be 
 found some engravings and notices of interest. The ' Archaeologia 
 Cambrensis,' 1854 (new series, vol. v. 279), contains an important 
 paper on the cathedral by Mr. E. A. Freeman, to which the 
 present description is much indebted. 
 
 It is said that the fire of 1402 destroyed all the documents 
 relating to St. Asaph's, which were then preserved in the 
 cathedral, with the exception of a certain red book, the ' Lyfr 
 Coch Asaph.' This book was lost during the civil war; but 
 some notes which had been taken from it by Dr. Davies, of 
 Maltwyd, were used by Wharton, the editor of the 'Anglia 
 Sacra,' for his lives of the Bishops of St. Asaph ; which, together 
 with those of the Bishops of London, were published in a small 
 volume in 1695. (The title is ' Historia de Episcopis et Decanis 
 Londinensibus, necnon de Episcopis et Decanis Assavensibus, 
 a prima sedis utriusque fundatione ad annum mdxl.') Many of 
 the documents printed by Wharton (especially those relating to 
 the proposed change of the place Of the see to Rhuddlan) will be 
 found, edited with far greater accuracy, and with valuable notes, 
 in Haddan and Stubbs's ' Councils and Ecclesiastical Documents,' 
 vol. i. 
 
254 %t ^sa^g «a%bral. 
 
 is referred to Part II. No portion of the existing 
 Cathedral is of earlier date than the end of the 
 thirteenth century; but a church has occupied the 
 same site from, possibly, the beginning of the seventh, 
 — the days of St. Kentigern and St. Asaph. This 
 site differs in so striking a manner from those chosen 
 for the three other Welsh Cathedrals that it is fair to 
 conclude that the earliest church established here was 
 founded under different conditions. The Cathedrals 
 of St. David's, Llandaff, and Bangor, are placed on 
 low ground, and are hardly seen at all from a dis- 
 tance. That of St. Asaph rises on the summit of a 
 ridge dividing the valleys of the Clwyd and the Elwy, 
 and extending to the junction of the two rivers, about 
 a mile below the city, — as the village of a single 
 street must be called in strictness. The Cathedral 
 is thus visible throughout the district, and its elevated 
 site commands views of great beauty and variety. It 
 is the smallest Cathedral church in Great Britain, and 
 there is some interest in the comparison of its main 
 dimensions with those of Winchester, — the longest, if 
 not the largest, in the world. The Cathedral of St. 
 Asaph is 182 feet in length, and the breadth of the 
 nave and aisles is 68 feet. The extreme length of 
 Winchester is 555 feet 8 inches. The width of nave 
 and aisles is about 100 feet. 
 
 II. We have no means of ascertaining with cer- 
 tainty the architectural character of the church which 
 existed on this site before the present Cathedral. It 
 possibly covered the same extent of ground : but even 
 
fistorg of % €\ntt\. 255 
 
 this is not clear, and all that is certain is that it was a 
 poor, and perhaps little cared for, building. The 
 rude condition of all this part of Wales, constantly- 
 desolated by war and by bands of various forayers, is 
 more than once mentioned as the cause of the occa- 
 sional vacancy of the see, or of the flight of its 
 bishops. b It was the poorest of the Welsh sees, as 
 its Cathedral was the smallest : and Giraldus, who 
 visited it in 1188, the year in which Archbishop 
 Baldwin preached the crusade throughout Wales, calls 
 it the " poor little church of Llanelwy " — " pauper- 
 cula sedis Lanelvensis ecclesia." c This visit of the 
 Archbishop and his company was, perhaps, the most 
 noteworthy event in the history of the earlier church. 
 As in the other Welsh Cathedrals, he celebrated mass 
 at the high altar of St. Asaph's, as if thereby asserting 
 the metropolitical rights of Canterbury over the Welsh 
 sees/ 1 
 
 b In 1125 the see is described as vacant, 'pro vastitate et bar- 
 baric' Stubbs, ' Acta Pontif. Eboi\' ap. Twysden ' X. Scriptores,' 
 p. 1718. The Welsh held St. Asaph from 11U4 to 1169 ; and 
 Godfrey, the Norman Bishop, fled, " panpertate et Walensium 
 infestatione compulsus." — ' Benedictus Abbas,' p. 90, ed. Stubbs. 
 In 1247, Matthew Paris says that the Bishops of St. Asaph and 
 Bangor were driven from their sees, "destructis episcopatibus 
 csede et incendio." 
 
 c ' Itin. Kambrise,' ii. 8. 
 
 f) No Archbishop of Canterbury had visited Wales till 
 Baldwin — " qui legationis hujus occasione .... terram tarn 
 hispidam, tarn inaccessibilem et remotam laudabili devotione 
 circuivit ; et in singulis cathedralibus ecclesiis, lanquam in- 
 vestiture cujusdam signum, missam celebravit." — Giraldus, 
 'Itin. Kambriae,' ii. 1. 
 
256 St. gt^fj's «%bral. 
 
 After the war of Edward I. with. Llewellyn of 
 Wales, and the submission of the latter in 1277, 
 Edward rebuilt in great strength the town and castle 
 of Ehuddlan on the low ground below the junction of 
 the Clwyd and the Elwy, about two miles nearer the 
 sea than St. Asaph's. It was then proposed that 
 the place of the see should be removed within the 
 greater security of the castle walls, and about the 
 middle of the year 1281 Bishop Anian wrote to Pope 
 Martin IV., asking leave for the removal, 6 whilst 
 King Edward himself addressed a certain Cardinal 
 (whose name is unknown) and pointed out the advan- 
 tages to be gained from it. f The Cathedral, say both 
 the King and the Bishop, instead of being " in loco 
 celebri et sollempni," stood in a village ("in vico 
 campestri") unprotected by walls or fosses. It had 
 few or no neighbours, and was exposed to great 
 dangers from thieves and soldiers, so that its goods, 
 and even the body of the most glorious Confessor St. 
 Asaph, might be spoiled and carried off before any 
 one could hear of it, and then it would be too late to 
 sound the ward horns. g Moreover, in time of war, 
 
 e Haddan and Stubbs's 4 Councils,' i. 529. Mr. Haddan gives 
 sufficient reasons for assigning the date of this letter to the 
 middle of the year 1281, instead of 1283, as given by Browne 
 Willis, * St. Asaph,' Append, xx. It was certainly written 
 before St. Asaph's Cathedral was burned— that is, before June, 
 1282. 
 
 f Id. id. i. 530. The letter was probably written from Rhuddlan, 
 where Edward was in the months of May and June, 1281. 
 
 g " Tanquam ilia quae in nullius bonis sunt, prsedonum in- 
 cursibus et latronum insidiis, una cum* corpore sancti Assaphi 
 
257 
 
 the Canons could not get to the church, or reside near 
 it, without great danger; and for these and other 
 reasons it often happened, not only on ordinary days 
 but on great and solemn festivals, that the Divine 
 mysteries were celebrated only for the clerks and the 
 walls of the church, — the distance and the dangers 
 preventing the approach of other hearers. The King 
 accordingly offered a site for a new Cathedral within 
 the walls of Ehuddlan, and a thousand marks toward 
 the building of the church. But before this proposal 
 can have been well entertained Ha warden Castle was 
 stormed by the Welsh Prince David on the evening of 
 Palm Sunday (March 22nd), 1282, and the war broke 
 out afresh. Bishop Anian, whether with or without 
 reason, was suspected by Edward of some complicity 
 with the Welsh, and was driven from his see (see 
 Part II.). The Cathedral of St. Asaph was burned 
 by the English, — under what circumstances is not 
 evident ; h and when Anian was allowed to return in 
 
 gloriosissimi confessoris, subjacent periculis infmitis; unde si 
 de die vel nocte lios insultari contingeret vel invadi, quicquid 
 habent possent aniittere, antequam inde advicinos rumor aliquis 
 perveniret ; et tunc nimis tarde venirent elephantum barritus, 
 qui corruentes socios relevant voce sua." — Letter of King 
 Edward. It is remarkable that this is the only occasion on 
 which we hear anything of the body of St. Asaph. It must 
 have been enshrined, since otherwise it could hardly have been 
 in danger from thieves. 
 
 h Archbishop Peckham, writing to Bishop Anian (June 6, 
 1282), entreats him not to excommunicate too hastily the 
 English who had burnt his cathedral, since the exact circum- 
 stances of the burning were not then evident : " quibusdam 
 astruentibus quod justo prelio, secundum modum precipue pre- 
 
 s 
 
258 St. part's <Ka%»raL 
 
 1284 the design for removing the place of the see was 
 altogether abandoned. As some compensation, per- 
 haps, the advowson of the Church of Ehuddlan was 
 granted to the Bishops of St. Asaph, and the King 
 gave (November, 1284) one hundred pounds sterling 
 to the chapter in consideration of the destruction and 
 calamities which had fallen on the Church of St. 
 Asaph during the late war. 1 
 
 III. Bishop Anian, on his return, set to work to 
 rebuild his Cathedral on the same site. His work 
 (he returned to the see in 1284 and died in 1293) 
 was apparently continued by his two successors, Leo- 
 line (1293-1314) and David (1315-1352). It is this 
 rebuilding which remains in the present nave and 
 transepts. From what sources the necessary means 
 were supplied is not evident ; but the clerks of St. 
 Asaph more than once carried through the dioceses of 
 Coventry and Lichfield, of Hereford, and of Wales, a 
 certain book of the Gospels, held in great veneration 
 throughout Wales and the Marches, seeking by the 
 exhibition of it, ^as of a shrine or relic, to obtain alms 
 for their church , k In this manner the building fund 
 
 liandi in partibus Wallie, civitas vestra, utpote effugium et 
 subterfugium hostium publicorum .... extitit concremata : 
 et preter intentionem illorum .... ignis inhesit ecclesie cum 
 dispendio subsecuto." — Haddan and Stubbs, i. 536. 
 
 1 The receipt for this sum, from the Archdeacon, Dean, and 
 Chapter of St. Asaph, is printed in ' Rymer,' i. 650. — Haddan 
 an® miibbs; i. 581. 
 
 k " Librum seu textum Evangeliorum de Ecclesia Assaph 
 vulgo ' Ereuegilthes ' appellatum, qui .... in magna vene- 
 ratione habetur in partibus Wallie et Marchie apud omnes, et 
 
259 
 
 may have been satisfactorily increased. The tower, 
 above the roofs, is certainly later than the rest of the 
 work, and was probably the last part finished. Nothing, 
 however, is recorded of the fabric until the Welsh 
 wars of Owen Glendower, by whom, in 1402, the 
 Cathedral is said to have been burnt. A writ of 
 Henry VI., freeing the bishop from the payment 
 of taxes, " dismes and quinzimes," on account of the 
 costly work of reparation, says that the " Chirch 
 Cathedrall of Saint Asaph, with the steple, bells, 
 quere, porch, and vestiary, with all other content is, 
 bokes, chaliz, vestimentis, and other ornaments, as the 
 bokes, stalles, deskes, altres, and all the aparaill 
 longyng to the same chirch, was brent and utterly 
 destroyed ; and in likewys the By shops Palays and all 
 his other three mannoirs, no styk laft." 1 It is certain, 
 however, from the evidence of the existing Church, 
 that the destruction on this occasion was almost en- 
 tirely confined to the woodwork. The roofs were, no 
 doubt, burnt, and the Cathedral remained in a ruined 
 
 propter casus varios a quibusdam clericis prefate Ecclesie 
 quandoque per patriam tanquam sanctnarium honorifice circum- 
 fertur." — Letter of Robert, Archbishop of Canterbury, in 1277, to 
 the clergy and laity of the neighbouring dioceses, requesting 
 them to aid and protect the clerks of St. Asaph's. A similar 
 letter was issued by Archbishop Peckham in 1281 ; and by 
 Leoline Bromfield, Bishop of St. Asaph's (1293-1314) to an 
 official of the Archdeacon of Chester. — Haddan and Stubbs, i. 
 523. 
 
 1 This writ is printed in Browne Willis's ' St. Asaph,' p. 229 — 
 " ex bibliotheca Thoma3 Sebright, baronetti " — and from a MS. 
 " of the late incomparable Mr. Edward Llwyd." The writ is 
 dated in 1402. 
 
 s 2 
 
260 St. $8hj#» «a%braL 
 
 condition until the time of Bishop Bedman (1471-1495) 
 who restored it, putting on new roofs, and inserting 
 (it is said) a large Perpendicular window in the choir, 
 which he also refitted with stalls and desks.™ Bishop 
 Owen (1629— died 1651) "new built and beautified the 
 episcopal throne," and, among other benefactions, set 
 up in 1635 " the great and new organ which was 
 brought from London in the beginning of October, 
 and played upon." 11 But evil times were at hand for 
 the Church of St. Asaph. " In Oliver's days the post 
 road was not through Denbigh, but St. Asaph, and 
 one Milles kept the office in the Bishop's palace." 
 There he sold wine and other liquors, and "most 
 prophanely desecrated the Cathedral. He kept his 
 horses and oxen in the body of the church, and fed 
 calves in the bishop's throne and in the choir. He 
 removed the font to his own yard, and used it for a 
 trough to water horses." ° The mischief done at this 
 time to the Church was remedied by Bishop Barrow 
 (1670-1680). He " repaired the north and south 
 aisles, new covered them with lead, and caused the 
 east parts of the choir to be wainscoted." p Bishop 
 Fleetwood (1708-1714) " paved and flagged great part 
 of the Cathedral with broad stone, and laid out 100/. 
 in adorning and painting the choir throughout." q 
 The choir, up to the time of Bishop Shipley (1769- 
 1788) was in great part of Early English character, 
 the walls having survived the destruction of 1282. 
 
 n Id. 
 
 m Browne Willis. 
 Id. p Id. 
 
 * Id. 
 
|lbtorg. 261 
 
 It was restored during the rebuilding of the Cathedral 
 in the fourteenth century ; when the roof and the east 
 window were entirely renewed. Bishop Bedman, 
 according to Browne Willis, altered the east window, 
 inserting Perpendicular tracery; but of this there is 
 no distinct evidence. About the year 1780, however, 
 the choir underwent a complete remodelling. The 
 timber roof was hidden by a plaster ceiling ; and the 
 east window, which had probably become dilapidated, 
 was filled with modern tracery. The side windows 
 were walled up or destroyed. Early in the present 
 century, during the episcopate of Bishop Cleaver (1806- 
 1815), the roof of the nave was altered, and lowered, 
 so as altogether to conceal the clerestory from within. 
 This unfortunate arrangement still exists ; but the 
 choir has (1867-8) been happily subjected to a second 
 and truer restoration under the care of Sir G. G. Scott. 
 The windows of the nave aisles had been " restored " 
 in 1830 and 1844. 
 
 IV. Such is the architectural history of St. Asaph's 
 Cathedral. The existing building, which consists of 
 nave and aisles, central tower and transepts and choir, 
 is accordingly of three periods, — the whole of the 
 western portion, including the tower and transepts, 
 Decorated, the work of Bishop Anian and his suc- 
 cessors ; the choir Early English and Decorated, with 
 a modern restoration. A full examination of St. 
 Asaph's will not be lengthy or laborious, but the 
 church is far from being without interest or beauty. 
 
 V. The exterior is, in fact, very striking, especially 
 
262 %t «a%brd. 
 
 as seen from the south-west (Frontispiece). The 
 massive central tower rises well above the steep roofs 
 of the nave and transepts, and if we could forget the 
 claims of the church as a Cathedral " it would at once 
 be recognized as presenting a remarkable majesty of 
 outline ; on which, far more than on any special point 
 of detail, its claim to attention is founded." There is, 
 indeed, little of the Cathedral type, if we except the 
 cruciform ground plan ; but the whole composition has 
 a simple dignity which is but ill replaced by the 
 elaborate ornament of many a more ambitious struc- 
 ture. It is built entirely of a red sandstone brought 
 from a quarry near Kyi-Owen, and worked throughout 
 the year by six labourers whom the free tenants of the 
 Dean and Chapter were bound to find "ad disco- 
 operiendam quarreram vocatam rubram, pro opera- 
 tionibus Ecclesiae Cathedralis Asaphensis," until 
 Bishop William de Spridlington (1376-1382) agreed 
 with the tenants to take a yearly fine of ten marks 
 instead/ " A few bold and simple members form the 
 style of composition throughout, — both in general 
 design and in detail." 8 The nave and aisles are of 
 five bays. The transepts and choir have no attached 
 chapels ; but the old choir, partially destroyed toward 
 
 r The Charter is printed in Browne Willis's 'Appendix,' 
 No. xix. The arrangement was made by the Dean and Chapter, 
 " advertentes dicta opera modicum proficuum eidem Ecclesise, 
 tarn per maliciam Laborariorum quam aliis de causis, per non 
 modicum tempus fecisse." 
 
 s E. A. Freeman's " St. Asaph's Cathedral"; 'Archseol. Cam- 
 brensis ' (new series, v. p. 279). 
 
ST. ASAPH'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE I. 
 
 ST 
 
 ASAPH'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 INTERIOR. LOOKING- EAST 
 
Mtst gxbid. 263 
 
 the end of the last century, was also without aisles, 
 and had only, as may be seen in Browne Willis's plan, 
 a square chapter-house projecting from it on the north 
 side.* 
 
 The West Front (Frontispiece), plain and unadorned 
 as it is, is excellent in its truth and simplicity of 
 design. Above the portal is a large Decorated window 
 rising into the steep gable which surmounts it. Plain 
 buttresses with gabled heads, above which rise pin- 
 nacles, flank the main front ; and on either side, 
 below the sloping roof of the aisle, is a single window 
 of two lights. At the angles of the aisles are plain 
 gabled buttresses of the same character as the larger 
 ones — the pinnacles of which were restored (about 
 1840) in an indifferent manner. The wave mouldings, 
 running in six orders round the arch of the portal, 
 without the interruption of capitals, strike the key- 
 note of the design which is carried throughout the 
 ancient portion of the church. 
 
 VI. This is at once seen on entering the nave 
 (Plate I.). Of the five bays the westernmost is 
 narrower than the others; but the piers and arches 
 of all are alike plain, having two orders of wave 
 moulding carried uninterruptedly round the arch, 
 without capital or impost. The same arrangement 
 
 * This chapter-house was apparently contemporary with the 
 choir. Of the building itself nothing is known but from 
 Browne Willis's plan ; but during the restoration under Sir G. 
 G. Scott, the Early English portal was discovered, opening 
 from the choir. 
 
264 St. ggapfc'g «a%bnxl 
 
 occurs in the arches which carry the central tower, 
 and in those opening to the transepts from the nave. 
 A single continuous moulding, forming a sort of ex- 
 ternal order or frame to the arch, occurs in the nave 
 of Worcester Cathedral, in those two western bays 
 which are of Transition Norman character ; and a 
 similar moulding is found in some of the Norman 
 work of Gloucester. In the Perpendicular period 
 the continuous moulding occasionally appears carried 
 quite round the arch, from the ground, but between 
 each moulding are small attached pier shafts, with 
 capitals. This is the arrangement in the collegiate 
 Church of Crediton, and it occurs elsewhere in Devon- 
 shire. But it is very unusual to find the lines of pier 
 and arch unbroken by capital or impost; and, al- 
 though the effect is not without a certain simple 
 dignity, the design can hardly be recommended for 
 imitation. The eastern bay of the nave of Chester 
 Cathedral resembles the plain arcade of St. Asaph's ; 
 and since it is of the same date it is probable that 
 the same architect or workmen were employed in 
 either case. 
 
 The roof which now covers the nave of St. Asaph's 
 dates from 1815, when the ancient arrangement above 
 the main arcade was destroyed. Up to that time 
 there existed a clerestory of five windows on either 
 side ; square lights, with an octofoiled inner moulding. 
 There was a cradle roof of timber. For whatever 
 reason, the clerestory windows on the north side were 
 entirely removed, and the lights on the south side were 
 
$fafoe anir guteka. 265 
 
 concealed by a bad plaster ceiling in imitation of a 
 vault. This still remains, and unquestionably produces 
 " an effect of lowness and disproportion." u The squared 
 clerestory lights may still be seen without, on the 
 south side ; and it is at once evident that the removal 
 of their simple and graceful forms from the interior 
 entailed a serious loss. The brackets which carried 
 shafts between the clerestory windows remain in the 
 cornice of the modern vault. They are, for the most 
 part, sculptured with grotesque crouching figures. 
 
 The great west window (see Frontispiece and Plate 
 II.) is of somewhat unusual character. It is of six 
 lights, " the primary pattern describing a triplet, each 
 of whose members is filled in with a two-light diver- 
 gent design." x The modern stained glass, of no great 
 merit, is placed in the window as a memorial of the 
 Eev. Eowland Toms, Canon of St. Asaph. 
 
 VII. The west windows of the aisles are of two 
 lights, with a large quatref oiled space in the head. 
 The other windows in the aisles were " restored " 
 (destroyed?) — those of the north aisle in 1830, those 
 of the south in 1844. In each aisle, in the second 
 bay from the west, there is a doorway. In their present 
 state the windows and portals are imitations of Early 
 Decorated work, and in no way represent the original 
 windows, which resembled those at the west end of the 
 aisles. The change was deliberately made at a period 
 when sound principles of restoration were even less 
 understood than is the case at present ; and although 
 u E. A. Freeman. x Id. 
 
266 
 
 made, no doubt, with excellent intentions, the result is 
 singularly unfortunate. 
 
 VIII. The great arches of the central tower are 
 plain, and perfectly resemble those of the nave arcade/ 
 In the Transepts, north and south, are windows of five 
 lights with ogee tracery. The south transept has two 
 windows on the east side, the north only one ; an 
 arrangement which, probably, had reference to the 
 position of altars below. The south transept, serving 
 at once as consistory court and chapter - house, is 
 divided from the central tower space by a closed 
 screen. In the north transept is placed the organ, — 
 the choir occupying the space beneath the central 
 tower. 
 
 It is evident that the nave, the transepts, and the 
 tower arches, are of one design, and nearly, if not 
 quite, of the same period. If Bishop Anian began by 
 rebuilding the choir (which has now disappeared), and 
 raised the aisle walls of the nave, his immediate suc- 
 cessors seem to have continued the building ; and the 
 transepts — the last portions to be finished — were pro- 
 bably completed shortly before 1336, when a charter 
 of Edward III., confirming the appropriation of the 
 Church of Nantclyn to the Vicars Choral of St. Asaph, 
 
 y During the late (1868) restoration, it was found that the 
 eastern piers of the tower had been damaged by fire. This is 
 somewhat perplexing ; since, if the fire was that in Edward 
 I.'s time, we should expect the piers to be of older and 
 different detail from those westward, which is not the case. If 
 the mischief was done by Owen Glendower's fire, how did the 
 roofs of choir and transepts escape, — which are all older ? 
 
pmitnmtts. 267 
 
 mentions " nova capella ex parte australi constructa." 
 This was the south transept, which served as St. 
 Mary's, or the Lady Chapel ; and for saying mass in 
 which Nantclyn was assigned to the Yicars Choral by 
 Bishop David (1315-1352). It is probable, therefore, 
 that nave, transepts, and tower arches, were con- 
 structed during Bishop David's long episcopate. The 
 nave is fitted with open seats. 
 
 IX. There are few monuments in. the nave or 
 transepts which call for notice. In the south transept 
 is a seated figure by Ternouth, of Dean Shipley, who 
 died in 1826, erected by subscription throughout the 
 diocese, and completed in 1829. Here, also, is the 
 effigy of a bishop, fully vested. The hands have been 
 broken off, but the right held the pastoral staff, part of 
 which remains, and the left, which was elevated, may 
 have supported a chalice. At the head are censing 
 angels. The figure, which is of peculiar beauty, and 
 dates from early in the fourteenth century, is probably 
 that of Bishop Anian, the founder of the new Cathe- 
 dral. 
 
 In the north transept, against the north window, 
 is a heavy monument for Bishop Luxmoore, died 1830. 
 
 In the south aisle of the nave is a monument by 
 Westmacott, K.A., for Sir John Williams, Bart., of 
 Bodelwyddan, who died in 1830. Here are also 
 many mural tablets for the Brownes of Bronwylfa, — 
 brothers and relatives of Mrs. Hemans the poetess. 
 She lived for some time at Bronwylfa, near St. 
 Asaph's ; and above tablets for her mother, her 
 
268 %t gjnpfc'g <£a%kal 
 
 brothers, and their wives, is one with the following 
 inscription — " This tablet is placed here, by her 
 brothers, in memory of Felicia Hemans, whose cha- 
 racter is best pourtrayed in her writings. She died 
 in Dublin, 16th May, 1835, aged 40." 
 
 At the west end of this aisle is a monument for 
 Bishop Carey ; died 1846. 
 
 X. The space beneath the central tower was vaulted 
 with oak during the recent restoration, and at no time 
 was open as a lantern. Here are now arranged the 
 stalls and choir desks, with the bishop's throne at the 
 east end on the south side (Plate II.). The stalls and 
 parts of the canopies are ancient ; the rest is modern, 
 from the designs of Sir G. Gilbert Scott; and, whilst 
 the work is of great beauty, it is not too rich or elabo- 
 rate for the comparatively plain architecture with 
 which it is associated. 
 
 XI. The walls of the choir, before the rebuilding 
 of 1780, were Early English, with lancet windows, the 
 shafts of which were banded. So much may be 
 gathered from the engraving in Browne Willis's 
 'Cathedral of St. Asaph,' published in 1720. The 
 roof, according to his description, was " cieled with 
 wood, and painted white, without any framing ; 
 sweep'd from side to side, containing only boards 
 nailed to the joices, or under the couples." This ceiling 
 concealed a cradle roof of the fourteenth century. 
 The great east window (then filled with tracery 
 inserted by Bishop Redman) contained " some few 
 pieces of painted glass scattered up and down in it." 
 
ST. ASAPH'S CATHEDRAL. BISHOJ S THRONE 
 
Qoir. 269 
 
 An engraving in Storer's 'Cathedrals' (1814) shows the 
 later choir by which the original work was replaced 
 in 1780 ; and sufficiently proves that the recent 
 changes effected by Sir G. G. Scott afford no cause 
 for regret. These changes are, in fact, a return to 
 the character of the original choir, so far as that 
 could be ascertained ; — but for some unfortunate and 
 mysterious reason, Sir G. Scott was not permitted to 
 make a full examination of the walls of the choir for 
 the sake of discovering such fragments of ancient 
 details as might be built up in them (an examination 
 which has led to such admirable results at Bangor) ; 
 and the eastern side windows were accordingly restored 
 from early engravings, and from such direct evidence 
 as was visible. On reaching the westernmost windows, 
 however (those nearest to the tower), the ancient jambs 
 were discovered, together with a great number of 
 detached details, sufficient to complete the design 
 with much of the original materials. This is excellent 
 Early English ; and it is not a little to be regretted (as 
 is felt by no one more than by Sir G. G. Scott himself) 
 that this discovery was made too late to prevent the 
 restoration of the other windows on a design which is, 
 after all, very conjectural. The ancient sedilia were 
 also found ; and the entrance to the Chapter House on 
 the north side. The jambs and arch of the east 
 window are Decorated, dating from early in the four- 
 teenth century. The tracery is modern. The cradled 
 timber roof, which had been hidden by a wretched 
 plaster ceiling, has been again brought to light. It is 
 
270 %t gwrpk's Cai^bral. 
 
 sufficiently clear that the roof of the Early English 
 choir had been burnt; that its walls had been pre- 
 served ; and that they were retained when a complete 
 restoration was made during Bishop Anian's rebuild- 
 ing. 
 
 The westernmost windows of the presbytery are 
 accordingly of ancient design, and in part of ancient 
 materials. The others are modern, of Early English 
 character. The roof has been thoroughly restored, 
 and many of the bosses are new. The east window, 
 with Decorated jambs and arch, is filled with modern 
 tracery. The stained glass is by Ward and Hughes. 
 
 The reredos — the gift of Mrs. Hesketh of Gwrych 
 Castle — consists of an entablature in alabaster, sculp- 
 tured with the procession to Calvary. On either side 
 is arcading. The reredos, the cost of which was about 
 6001. , was designed by Sir G. G. Scott. 
 
 Open benches are arranged on either side of the 
 presbytery. The floor is laid with encaustic tiles. 
 Looking westward (Plate III.) the great window of 
 the nave is well seen. 
 
 XII. Eeturning to the exterior of the Cathedral it 
 will be seen that the clerestory lights, altogether con- 
 cealed within, are uninjured on the south side of the 
 nave. On the north they have been destroyed. Above 
 these windows, and above the aisle wall, is a corbel 
 table, — "possibly a slight sign of military character." 2 
 The windows of the aisles were restored, as has already 
 
 E. A. Freeman. 
 
ST. ASAPH'S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE III. 
 
 ST. ASAPH'S CATHEDRAL INTERIOR LOOKING- WEST 
 
Cofojer. 271 
 
 been said, in 1830 and 1844 ; and the work on the 
 exterior is not very good. 
 
 The tower was, probably, the last part of the church 
 which was finished. On each front is a large belfry 
 window of three lights, with transoms, and ogee 
 tracery in the headings. The whole design may 
 date from the end of the fourteenth century ; but 
 the battlement was rebuilt after a storm in 1714, a 
 and a change in the masonry (indicated in the wood- 
 cut — see Frontispiece) u induces the belief that the 
 whole upper portion of the tower was rebuilt at the 
 same time. But, if so, it is clear that the original 
 stone-work of the windows was replaced with great 
 care, and that they may safely be referred to as 
 genuine specimens." 15 The height of the tower is 
 93 feet. 
 
 A chapter-house, occupying the place usually as- 
 signed to a sacristy, projected on the north side of 
 the original choir, and was destroyed together with it. 
 It was, according to Browne Willis, 16i feet east and 
 west by 19 feet north and south. It was " arched 
 overhead with arches meeting in two centres," and 
 there was a room above it. 
 
 * The cathedral had before suffered from storms. 
 
 Bishop Barrow (d. 1680) procured the appropriation of the 
 rectories of Llanrhayader and Skeiviog, for the repairs of 
 the fabric and the better maintenance of the choir. The Act 
 begins thus :— " Whereas the cathedral of St. Asaph .... by 
 reason of the high and bleak situation thereof near the sea, is 
 much exposed to storms, and requireth great and frequent 
 repairs," &c— B. Willis, 1 Appendix,' No. xxxix. 
 
 b E. A. Freeman. 
 
272 St. gjajjfc's «a%taaL 
 
 XIII. Outside the west door of the Cathedral, on the 
 south, is the altar tomb of Bishop Barrow (see Part 
 II.), with a somewhat remarkable inscription. Above 
 are his armorial bearings — four ''flower de lisV — 
 quarterly, impaled with those of the see. The in- 
 scription runs, — " Exuviae Isaac Asaphensis Episcopi, 
 in manum Domini depositee in spem letae resurrectionis 
 per sola Christi merita. Obiit dictus Eeverendus 
 Pater festo D. Johannis Baptistae, Ao. Dom. 1680. 
 2Et. 67. et translationis suae undecimo. vos trans- 
 euntes in Domum Domini in Domum Orationis, orate 
 pro conservo vestro ut inveniat misericordiam in die 
 Domini." 
 
 The churchyard is well kept, and commands plea- 
 sant views. Due west of the church is the Deanery ; 
 and south-west, at the foot of the hill, on the bank of 
 the Elwy, is the Episcopal Palace,— rebuilt in part by 
 Bishop Carey (1830-1846). 
 
 XIV. The Cathedral of St. Asaph is not, like St. 
 David's, Llandaff, and Bangor, a parish church. The 
 parish Church of St. Asaph's stands a short distance 
 west of the Cathedral, and is a small, double-aisled, 
 Perpendicular building of little interest. The south 
 aisle is known as Eglwys Asaph (Asaph's Church), 
 the north as Eglwys Cyndern (Kentigern's Church). 
 
 XV. St. Asaph, like other Welsh saints, had, of 
 course, his holy wells in various parts of his diocese. 
 One of the most noticeable is the Ffynnon Asaph, 
 about two miles from the town, and a mile from the 
 ruins of Dyserth Castle, which is enclosed with stone, 
 
Sit Stag's SRelL 273 
 
 and throws up no less than seven tons of water every 
 minute. It was formerly a place of pilgrimage, but 
 was never so famous as the Ffynnon Vair, or St. Mary's 
 Well, about two miles south-west of St. Asaph's. This 
 is covered in by a building apparently designed after 
 that over St. Winifred's or Holywell. The well is 
 about 1\ feet square, with three of the sides formed 
 into angles, from each point of which formerly sprung 
 a shaft. The south arm of the cross dates from the 
 early part of the fifteenth century ; the rest is late 
 Perpendicular. The building is now in ruins. "In 
 King James II. 's days," says Browne Willis, " some 
 Roman Catholics had a design to rebuild it, it being 
 held by them in such great sanctity that those who 
 pay their devoirs to St. Winifred seldom fail to make 
 a visit to Capell fiynnon vair. . . . By the side of the 
 well there grows a sweet-scented moss, much esteemed 
 by pilgrims." 
 
 A mark on a black stone in the pavement of the 
 street of the town, about midway between the Cathedral 
 and the parish church, was long shown as the print of 
 St. Asaph's horseshoe. The saint, said tradition, 
 leapt on horseback from his well near Dyserth to 
 this spot. 
 
ST. ASAPH'S CATHEDRAL. 
 PART IL 
 
 HPHE see of Llanelwy, or St. Asaph, like the other Welsh 
 sees, seems to have been founded toward the end of 
 the sixth, or the beginning of the seventh, century. The 
 founder is said to have been St. Kentigern, or Cyndeyrn, 
 who, when he returned himself to Glasgow in Strathclyde, 
 left in his place his disciple St. Asaph, — from whom, as in 
 the case of St. David's, the see was afterwards named. 
 At both places, however, the local name also remained, 
 and was also attached to the see. " Mynyw " — Menevia 
 — " the brake," at St. David's ; " Llanelwy,"— the " Church 
 of the Elwy," at St. Asaph's. The diocese of St. Asaph 
 was, for the most part, conterminous with the principality 
 of Powys, which came into existence about the same time 
 as the see. 
 
 Kentigern, or Cyndeyrn, was a disciple of St. Servan, or 
 St. Serf, Bishop of Culross in the Mearns, — that district of 
 "the Picts in Britain" where Palladius the Eoman mis- 
 sionary taught, after his rejection by the Irish, and where 
 he died soon after 431. Kentigern, according to the very 
 legendary life, written by Joscelin of Furness about 1180, 
 and addressed to Joscelin, Bishop of Glasgow (1175 — 
 1199), a after leaving St. Serf, took up his abode at Glas- 
 
 * A fragment of an earlier life, by an anonymous monk, 
 addressed to Herbert, Bishop of Glasgow (1147-1164), is printed 
 
275 
 
 gow, on the extreme northern border of Strathclyde, at 
 which place he founded the episcopal see, becoming himself 
 the first bishop. From this place he traversed repeatedly, 
 and on foot, the wild country of Strathclyde and Cumbria, 
 which, until the end of the sixth century, and later, ex- 
 tended as far south as the mouth of the river Mersey, 
 and was thus separated only by the estuary from North 
 Wales. Wales, Strathclyde, and Cumbria, were alike 
 peopled by Cymric Celts, and the dialects, however they 
 may have slightly varied, were mutually intelligible. 
 Kentigern, after preaching and founding churches through- 
 out Strathclyde, betook himself (the life asserts in conse- 
 quence of a quarrel with the British King of Strathclyde) 
 to Mynyw, or Menevia, where St. David was then pre- 
 siding over his great monastic establishment.** Here he 
 remained some time ; and then, journeying again north- 
 ward, he halted on the banks of the Elwy ; and Cadwallon, 
 King or Prince of the country, gave him a spot of ground 
 on which he constructed a small wooden church, the germ 
 of the existing Cathedral. Hound it were grouped the 
 rude buildings of a vast monastic community, such as 
 he had seen at St. David's, and which he now gathered 
 about him at Llanelwy. There were, says his biographer, 
 nine hundred and sixty-five brethren ; three hundred of 
 whom were tillers of land and tenders of cattle; three 
 
 in the 4 Glasgow Chartulary/ vol. i. That of Joscelin of 
 Furness (founded upon an earlier Glasgow legend, and upon 
 a document written in Irish) will be found in Pinkerton's i VitaB 
 Sanctorum Scotia?/ (See Haddan and Stubbs, ' Councils and 
 Eccles. Doc/ i. p. 157). 
 
 b The biographers of nearly all the Irish and Welsh saints of 
 this period take them to the Monastery of St. David, at Menevia. 
 The lives are for the most part legendary, and not to be trusted 
 in detail ; but there is little doubt that St. David was one of the 
 great religious teachers of his age. (See 4 St. David's Cathedral,' 
 Part II.). 
 
 T 2 
 
276 St. ^sap^'s «a%br»l 
 
 hundred more prepared the food and attended to domestic 
 concerns ; and the remaining three hundred and sixty -five, 
 who were clerkly persons, kept up a ceaseless service of 
 prayer and thanksgiving, — the " laus perpetua" of the 
 highest monastic life. Joscelin is hardly a sufficient 
 authority for the existence of such a community at Llan- 
 elwy ; and his life of Kentigern is far too late and too . 
 legendary to be accepted in other than the main outlines. 
 But it is tolerably certain that large monastic establish- 
 ments of this character existed at this time in Wales ; and 
 that one of the largest was situated at Bangor Iscoed, on 
 the Dee, at no great distance south of Chester, and in the 
 same principality of Powys as Llanelwy. Twelve hundred 
 brethren of this great monastery were slaughtered by the 
 heathen Ethel frith of Northumbria before his attack on 
 Chester in 613. c 
 
 At Llanelwy, Kentigern established the episcopal see ; 
 and, after himself acting as its bishop for some years, he 
 returned to Strathclyde, where a new king had arisen, 
 who was willing to receive him. He took with him six 
 hundred and sixty of his monks ; and presided over the 
 diocese of Glasgow, flourishing in miracles, until, according 
 to Joscelin, he attained the vast age of one hundred and 
 eighty-five. The year of his death, and perhaps with 
 accuracy, is given as 612. 
 
 When St. Kentigern left Llanelwy he appointed in his 
 place his favourite disciple St. Asa, or Asaph, — whose 
 name has probably been Hebraised from some Cymric 
 appellation of similar sound. Of St. Asaph little or 
 
 c " Extinctos in ea pugna ferunt, de his qui ad orandum 
 venerant, viros circiter mille ducentos, et solum quinquaginta 
 fuga esse lapses.'' — Bede, i H. E.' ii. 2. The monks had been 
 placed " in tutiore loco," to pray for the success of the British 
 King. Ethelfrith exclaimed, " If they pray against us to their 
 God thoy fight against us," and ordered them to be attacked 
 and slaughtered before the actual fight was begun. 
 
St g^apfc. 
 
 277 
 
 nothing is known beyond what may be gathered from 
 the legendary lives of his master. On one occasion Kenti- 
 gern desired his disciple to bring him some fire ; and, 
 finding no proper vessel at hand, St. Asaph folded the hot 
 coals in the skirts of his habit, and carried them safely to 
 Kentigern by virtue of a strong faith. A favourite saying 
 of St. Asaph's, u Whosoever is against the preaching of 
 God's word envies man's salvation," is also recorded. The 
 year of his death is altogether unknown ; and no separate 
 life of him exists. It is worth noticing that, although the 
 age of St. Kentigern and St. Asaph is the golden age of 
 Welsh saints, they are almost entirely confined to the 
 southern principalities, — Dyfed (Dimetia), Gwent (Mon- 
 mouthshire), and Keredigion (Cardigan). What is now 
 North Wales was perhaps ruder, and more exposed to the 
 attacks of the English, whose conquests were steadily 
 advancing. Strathciyde and Cumbria were certainly in 
 this condition ; and Kentigern is almost the single saint or 
 Christian teacher whose memory is preserved throughout 
 the whole country — from Glasgow to Chester. 
 
 Of the see of St. Asaph no records whatever exist from 
 the time of its foundation until the middle of the twelfth 
 century. A bishop is mentioned in 928 (in the Preface to 
 the ' Laws of Howell Dda ') ; and 6 Melanus Lanelvensis ' 
 is said to have been consecrated by Bedwd, or Bleiddud, 
 Bishop of St. David's, who died in 1071. But the autho- 
 rity for this statement is a letter written by the Chapter 
 of St. David's in 1145, to the Pope, Eugenius III., re- 
 specting the claim of that see to the metropolitan dignity ; 
 and the assertion, like others in the same letter, is by no 
 means to be regarded as certainly accurate. d In 1125 it 
 was proposed to transfer to the Province of York, from 
 that of Canterbury, the dioceses of Chester and Bangor, 
 u et tercium inter hos duos medium, sed pro vastitate et 
 
 d See the letter in Haddan and Stubbs, i. 348. 
 
278 %t Catfetbral- 
 
 barbarie vacantem." e This was St. Asaph or Llanelwy. 
 There is no evidence that the see was occupied until 
 [a.d. 1143.] When Theobald, Archbishop of Canterbury, 
 consecrated, at Lambeth, a certain Gilbert. The circum- 
 stances of his election and consecration are obscure ; but it 
 is clear that St. Asaph's was the last of the Welsh sees 
 which remained independent of Canterbury ; and it is, 
 perhaps, for this reason, that Henry of Huntingdon, writing 
 about 1135, omits the see in his list of Welsh bishoprics. 
 The date of Gilbert's death is not known. His suc- 
 cessor was 
 
 [a.d. 1152 — 1154.] Geoffry, also consecrated at Lambeth 
 by Archbishop Theobald. This was the famous Geoffry of 
 Monmouth, — of which place he was archdeacon. "Geoffry 
 ap Arthur" was "priest of the household" of William 
 Earl of Gloucester, Lord of Glamorgan. He never visited 
 his see ; but, according to the ' Brut y Tywysogion,' " died 
 in his house at Llandaff, and was buried in the church 
 there. He was a man whose like could not be found for 
 learning and knowledge and all divine excellences. He 
 was a foster son of Uchtryd, Archbishop " (see Introd. to 
 this volume. Llandaff claimed metropolitical dignity with 
 as much, or as little, reason as St. David's) " of Llandaff, 
 his uncle by the father's side; and for his learning and 
 excellencies an archdeaconry was conferred upon him in 
 the church of Teilo at Llandaff, where he was the instructor 
 of many scholars and chieftains." f 
 
 Geoffry was one of the witnesses, in 1153, to the com- 
 pact between Stephen and Henry. His book, which, 
 whatever amount of truth it may contain, has confused 
 all the early history of Britain, and has been a fertile 
 source of error, was published about 1138, and at once 
 attained a great celebrity. Whoever was unacquainted 
 
 e Stubbs, 'Acta Pontif. Ebor.'ap. Twysden, 'Decern Scriptores,' 
 p. 1718. The transfer was never effected. 
 f Brut, ap. Haddan and Stubbs, i. 360. 
 
279 
 
 with it, in the words of Alured of Beverley, " no tarn 
 rusticitatis incurrebat." Godwin (' De Prsesul. Anglise ') 
 has confused Geoffry with his successor Godfrey — and 
 asserts that William of JSTewburgh, who has made a vigo- 
 rous attack on Geoffry in his history, was elected to the 
 see of St. Asaph on its avoidance by Geoffry — (it was 
 really Godfrey who resigned the see) — but was rejected ; 
 and that it was in consequence of this disappointment that 
 the passage was inserted in the history. But Godwin 
 seems to have had no authority for the statement, — which, 
 at any rate, cannot have applied to Geoffry. 
 
 [a.d. 1154 — date of death unknown.] Richard ; also conse- 
 crated by Archbishop Theobald. 
 
 [a.d. 1160 — resigned 1175.] Godfrey, also consecrated by 
 Theobald. Owen, Prince of Gwynedd, revolted in 1164, 
 and held out successfully until 1169. He took possession 
 of St. Asaph at the beginning of the revolt. Bishop 
 Godfrey was driven from his see, " paupertate et Walen- 
 sium infestatione compulsus," and, coming to England, 
 was received " benigne et honorifice " by Henry II., who 
 gave him the rich Abbey of Abingdon to hold " in com- 
 mendam." s But Archbishop Becket insisted that Godfrey 
 should return to his see or resign it. He did neither 
 until, at the Council of Westminster (1175), five years 
 after Becket's death, " nullo cogente," he resigned the see, 
 delivering the pastoral staff and ring into the hands of 
 Archbishop Richard, the successor of Becket. h The clerks 
 of St. Asaph had appealed to the archbishop, entreating 
 that he would either compel Godfrey to return to his see, 
 or provide them with a new pastor. Godfrey seems to 
 have loved the plenty of Abingdon better than the 
 poverty of Wales; but he did not keep his Abbey. 
 That was given "cuidam monacho;" and what after- 
 wards became of Bishop Godfrey is not known. During 
 
 g ' Benedictus Abbas,' ed. Stubbs, i. 90. 
 
 h Id. id. 
 
280 %t gtfap{f'g <ffa%kaL 
 
 the same Council of Westminster Archbishop Eichard 
 consecrated as Bishop of St. Asaph 
 
 [a.d. 1175 — 1181.] Adam, of whom little is recorded. He 
 died at Oxford, and was buried in the church of the 
 Augustinians at Oseney. It was during his episcopate 
 that the dispute was at its highest between the sees of St. 
 Asaph and St. David's respecting the limits of the diocese, 
 A remarkable scene between Giraldus, acting as Arch- 
 deacon of Brecknock in the vacancy of the see of St. 
 David's, and Bishop Adam of St. Asaph's, is described by 
 Giraldus himself in his autobiography. (' De rebus a se 
 gestis,' I. 6.) The church of Kerry, claimed by both, 
 sustained a kind of ecclesiastical siege, and Bishop Adam 
 was treated with much indignity by the vigorous arch- 
 deacon. 
 
 [a.d. 1183—1186.] John. 
 
 [a.d. 1186—1224.] Keiner. It was in his time (a.d. 1188) 
 that Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, accompanied by 
 Giraldus, preached the crusade throughout Wales (see 
 Part I. § 2). The great archiepiscopal train could not 
 be housed at St. Asaph's. Baldwin, with all his company, 
 slept at Bhuddlan, — where was already a castle of much 
 importance, although the place had not yet acquired the 
 size and strength given to it by Edward I. After saying 
 mass in the Cathedral on the following morning they 
 passed on through a rich mining district to Basingwerk. 
 
 [a.d. 1225—1233.] Abraham. 
 
 [a.d. 1235—1240.] Hugh. 
 
 [a.d. 1240 — 1247.] Howel ap Ednevet. 
 
 Of these bishops little or nothing is recorded. The 
 Welsh church was, in the time of Bishop Howel, and 
 probably of his predecessors, in miserable condition. The 
 country itself, according to Matthew Paris, was desolate. 
 " Emarcuit antiqua eorum superba nobilitas, et etiam 
 virorum ecclesiasticorum cythara conversa est in luctum 
 et lamenta." The Bishops of St. Asaph and of Bangor 
 
281 
 
 were compelled to leave their dioceses, which were wasted 
 by fire and slaughter, and "mendicare ut de alieno vive- 
 rent cogebantur." 1 It is asserted that Bishop Howel died 
 at Oxford in great poverty . k 
 
 [a.d. 1249 — 1266.] Anian ; of whom little is known. He 
 was succeeded by 
 
 [a.d. 1267.] John, who died in the same year, or the follow- 
 ing. The next bishop 
 
 [a.d. 1268 — 1293.] Anian, was a person of much vigour and 
 distinction. He is generally known as Anian Schonaw, — 
 if this be not a corruption of Nanneu, — since, according to 
 Godwin, his popular name was " Y brawd du o Nanneu" 
 — the " black brother of Nanneu." He was a Dominican, 
 and the Confessor of Edward I., whom he accompanied to 
 the Holy Land. The earlier period of his episcopate was 
 a time of ceaseless tumult. In 1277, during the war of 
 Edward with Llewellyn, certain soldiers of William of 
 Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, then stationed at Chester, 
 plundered and burnt one of the bishop's manors. 1 Bobert, 
 Archbishop of Canterbury, wrote to reprove them. In 
 the same year the clerks of St. Asaph carried round a book 
 of the Gospels, much reverenced on the Marches, to solicit 
 alms for their church ; m and Bishop Anian wrote to the 
 Provincial of the Dominicans (Friars preachers) in Eng- 
 land, entreating the prayers of the Order for St. Asaph's 
 " quae tot adversitates patitur his diebus . . . . et jam 
 remedium apponere non videatur esse in homine, sed in 
 Deo." n Before the outbreak of the war in 1282, Edward 
 had rebuilt and greatly strengthened the town and castle 
 of Bhuddlan, and propositions were made for removing the 
 see of St. Asaph to that place, for the sake of greater 
 security (see Part I. § 2). The Cathedral was burned in 
 1282. Bishop Anian fell into disgrace (for some unex- 
 
 * M. Paris, ed. Wats, p, 739. k ' Annal. Wigorn.' 
 
 1 Haddan and Stubbs, i. 522. m Id. i. 523. n Id. id. 
 
282 St. ^sapjf's tfstfeebral. 
 
 plained reason, — probably from some supposed complicity 
 with Llewellyn) with Edward L He was driven from his 
 see ; and was not allowed to return until after the year 
 1284. A commission was issued to Eobert Burnell, Bishop 
 of Bath and Wells, to take charge of the diocese during 
 Anian's enforced absence. Archbishop Peckham was in 
 Wales and at Khuddlan in the latter part of the year 
 1282, endeavouring in vain to mediate between Edward 
 and Llewetlyn. In 1284 he visited the diocese of St. 
 Asaph as metropolitan. 
 
 After his return Bishop Anian began the rebuilding of 
 his Cathedral on the old site (see Part I. § 3). He 
 recovered the patronage of many churches for his see. 
 
 The rebuilding of the Cathedral was, probably, continued 
 during the episcopate of Anian's successor. 
 
 [a.d. 1293 — 1314.] Leoline oe Bkomfield, or "Leoline 
 (Llewellyn) ap Llewellyn ap Ynyr" — a Canon of the 
 Cathedral. He confirmed the appropriations to the chap- 
 ter, made by Anian, of the rectories of Lansilin and 
 Khuddlan ; besides certain grants made to the Fabric. 
 He rearranged the offices and choral discipline of his 
 church after a fashion of which there were still some 
 remains when Bishop Godwin wrote, at the beginning of 
 the seventeenth century. By his will he left plate, 
 books, and vestments to the Cathedral, which he seems 
 to have brought into some degree of order, after long 
 confusion and neglect. 
 
 [a.d. 1315 — 1352.] David ap Blethyn, Canon of St. Asaph, 
 probably completed the church begun by Bishop Anian. 
 Little, however, is recorded of him. 
 
 " In Liturgia Ecclesise suae et chori disciplina cum plurima 
 mutaverit, constitutiones ejus ea de re in hodiernum usque diem 
 vim obtinent." Godwin ' de Praesul. Anglise.' This book was 
 published in 1601, in English. The Latin translation, by the 
 Author, appeared in 1616. 
 
Dps* gafjiir to feiror. 
 
 283 
 
 The names of Ephraim, or Abraham, and of Henry, 
 are placed by Godwin between the Bishops David and 
 John Trevor. But there is no good authority for inserting 
 them ; and, at any rate, the see can only have been so 
 filled for a few weeks. Since 
 
 [a.d. 1352 — 1357.] John Trevor was consecrated at Avig- 
 non in the year of Bishop David's death. 
 
 [a.d. 1357 — 1375.] Leoline ap Madoc was also consecrated 
 at Avignon. 
 
 [a.d. 1376 — 1382.] William of Spridlington, Dean of St. 
 Asaph. It was during his episcopate that the working of 
 the " Red Quarry," from which the Cathedral was built, 
 was changed for an annual rent (see Part I. § 5). 
 Bishop Spridlington's will provides that he shall be buried 
 in the choir of his Cathedral, " ad caput australe magni 
 altaris, sub basso lapide, concordante cum pavimento." 
 
 [a.d. 1382 — 1389.] Laurence Child, a monk of Battle, 
 succeeded. He was buried in the choir, before the high 
 altar, " sub pedibus capellani ubi celebrare solet." 
 
 [a.d. 1390 — 1395.] Alexander Bache, a Dominican. 
 
 [a.d. 1395 — 1410.] John Trevor, the second of the name, 
 succeeded. He pronounced sentence of deposition against 
 Eichard II., in 1399 (Eicbard being then within his 
 diocese in Flint Castle), and was afterwards sent am- 
 bassador to Spain, to justify the proceedings of Henry IV. 
 Owen Glendower, seemingly on account of this bishop's 
 Lancastrian zeal, burnt his Cathedral and his palace ; and 
 Trevor, " to ingratiate himself with him," revolted to his 
 party, and held with him during his insurrection. He 
 was accordingly deprived of his see ; and in 1402 a certain 
 David was nominated to it. A letter of Henry IV. to 
 Edward Charlton, Lord Powys, written in 1409, mentions 
 " Owynus de Glandourdy et Johannes (Trevor) qui se 
 pretendit Episcopum Assavensem,— proditores et rebelles 
 nostri." p 
 
 p Browne Willis. 
 
284 
 
 St ^jmplj's Cat^braL 
 
 [a.d. 1411 — 1433.] Robert Lancaster. 
 
 [a.d. 1433 — trans, to Rochester 1444.] John Lowe, was a 
 very learned Austin Friar in -the convent at Droit wich, 
 and became Provincial of his order, and Prior of the 
 Austin Friars in London. He was the first bishop ever 
 translated from this see. A letter from him, as bishop 
 elect, to the Prior of Canterbury, about his consecration, 
 mentions St. Asaph " in the March of Wales " — " ad 
 quern indignus et inexpertus auriga evocor." 
 
 [a.d. 1444 — trans, to Chichester 1450.] Reginald Peacock. 
 For a sketch of the life of this most remarkable man, see 
 6 Chichester Cathedral,' Part II. His famous book * The 
 Repressor of over much blaming of the Clergy,' was set 
 forth in 1449, while he was still presiding over the see of 
 St. Asaph. He procured a release of the rent due to the 
 Crown from Granatemore, belonging to the see, — with 
 special reference to the ruined condition of the Palace and 
 of the Cathedral. The former had been entirely de- 
 stroyed, and the roofs of the latter had been burnt by 
 Glendower, — and they had not as yet been renewed. 
 
 [a.d. 1451 — 1471.] Thomas Knight. He was a great Lan- 
 castrian, and was active against Edward IV., who seems 
 to have deposed him. A writ was issued, March 11, 
 1465, to Richard Canton, LL.D., giving him the custody 
 of the temporalities " ratione rebellionis Thomae nuper 
 episcopi ibidem " (' Fcedera,' II.), — and there are similar 
 grants to others. But in 1469, on the re-establishment 
 for a time of Henry VI., Bishop Thomas was summoned 
 to attend Parliament, which he did. Afterwards Edward 
 IV. convicted him of treason, and he was compelled to 
 resign. 
 
 [a.d. 1471, trans, to Exeter 149f .] Richard Redman suc- 
 ceeded ; a man of considerable learning and liberality, 
 who did much for his Cathedral. He was Abbot of the 
 Premonstratensian house of Shap in Westmorland, and 
 Visitor General of his Order throughout the king's do- 
 
§S|js. |Uiwtmt to ^tunhhfy 
 
 285 
 
 minions. This dignity, with his Abbacy, he held during 
 his tenure of the see of St. Asaph. He restored the 
 church from the ruined condition in which it had re- 
 mained since the raid of Owen Glendower, putting on new 
 roofs, and refitting the choir, on the old stalls of which his ■ 
 coat of arms remained. He also placed a large Perpen- 
 dicular window at the east end (see Part I. § 3). 
 
 Bishop Redman was sent on many embassies by Edward 
 IV. and Eichard III. On the accession of Henry VII., 
 who discountenanced the friends of the House of York, 
 the bishop fell under the Royal displeasure ; and he took 
 part with the Bishops of Ireland in setting up Lambert 
 Simnel. For this, in 1487, he was censured by the Pope ; 
 and w 7 ould have been deprived of his see had he not sub- 
 mitted himself on Simnel's detection. He was then re- 
 ceived with favour by Henry, who sent him ambassador 
 to Scotland in 1493, and afterwards removed him first t 
 Exeter (1495), and then to Ely (1501), where he died in 
 1505. His monument remains in that Cathedral. His 
 successor at St. Asaph was 
 
 a.d. 1496 — 1500.] Michael Deacon, the King's Confessor. 
 
 a.d. 1500 — 15C3.] David ap Yorwerth. Abbot of Valle 
 Crucis. 
 
 a.d. 1504 — 1513.] David ap Owen, also Abbot of Valle 
 Crucis. From the time of the burning by Owen Glen- 
 dower the episcopal palace at St. Asaph had not been, 
 restored ; and the bishops of that see (like those of Bangor) 
 had lived for the most part out of their dioceses. David 
 ap Owen began the rebuilding of the palace at St. Asaph. 
 
 a.d. 1513 — 1518.] Edmund Birkhead. 
 
 a.d. 1518 — 1535.] Henry Standish ; a Minorite Friar ; a 
 vigorous supporter of Rome ; and an advocate of Queen 
 Catherine in the question of the divorce. In 1523 he 
 went as ambassador into Denmark. By his will he left 
 40/. to the Cathedral " pro pavimento chori et ceteris 
 nccessariis." 
 
286 %L «a%bral 
 
 The Valor Ecclesiasticus of 1534 makes the bishopric of 
 St. Asaph worth in clear 1877. lis. 6d. 
 
 [a.d. 1536 — trans, to Hereford 1554.] Kobert Wharton, or 
 Parfew. On the death of Bishop Standish William 
 Barlow had been appointed and consecrated (Feb. 22, 
 1535) to the see of St. Asaph ; but in the following April 
 he was translated to St. David's. Bishop Wharton, who 
 succeeded, had been Abbot of Bermondsey, and held that 
 office in commendam with his bishopric. He affected much 
 episcopal state and hospitality ; living for the most part at 
 Denbigh or Wrexham ; and anticipated the revenue of the 
 see to such an extent that he reduced it to extreme poverty. 
 
 [a.d. 1555 — trans. 1558.] Thomas Goldwell. He was the 
 single English bishop present at the Council of Trent, 
 the decrees of which he subscribed. In the last year of 
 Queen Mary he was translated to Oxford, — but in 1559, 
 on the accession of Elizabeth, he left England a voluntary 
 exile, and never returned. He died, and was buried at 
 Borne in 1581. It was in 1562 that he attended the 
 Tridentine Council. 
 
 [a.d. 1560 — trans, to St. David's 1561.] Richard Da vies. 
 He had been in exile during the reign of Queen Mary. 
 
 [a.d. 1561—1573.] Thomas Davis. 
 
 [a.d. 1573—1600.] William Hughes. 
 
 [a.d. 1601 — 1604.] William Morgan ; trans, from LlandafT. 
 He was the first translator of the Bible into Welsh (see 
 Llandaff, Part II.). 
 
 [a.d. 1604 — 1623.] Richard Parry, Dean of Bangor. 
 " Bishop Godwin," says Fuller, " passeth on him this 
 complement (take it in the best derivation of the word 
 from completio mentis) that he desireth, being so near 
 unto him in time and his studies, to be his equal in other 
 Episcopal qualities." 
 
 [a.d. 1624—1629.] John Hanmer; Fellow of All Souls and 
 Prebendary of Worcester. 
 
 [a.d. 1629 — d. 1651.] John Owen, Archdeacon of St. Asaph, 
 
©fran to hooper. 
 
 287 
 
 had been chaplain to Charles I. when Prince of Wales. 
 He was, at any rate, a good Welsh scholar, if not a 
 Welshman, and established preaching in Welsh in the 
 parish church of St. Asaph. He " made a neat wainscoat 
 pulpit in the Cathedral, fixed seats and forms to hear 
 divine service, set up the great organ " (see Part I. § 2) 
 " and repaired the steeple and belfry, making them new 
 with boards." He was a .great sufferer by the Rebellion. 
 His church lands were sold r his palace taken possession 
 of, and the Cathedral desecrated (Part I. § 3). Bishop 
 Owen was buried under the episcopal throne, without any 
 inscription or monument. 
 
 [a.d. 1660 — 1666.] George Geiffith was consecrated to 
 the see after the Restoration. 
 
 [a.d. 1667 — 1670.] Henry Glemham, Dean of Bristol. 
 
 [a.d. 1670 — 1680.] Isaac Barrow; trans, from Sodor and 
 Man. He was a member of an old Suffolk family, aud the 
 uncle of Isaac Barrow, the celebrated divine. He had 
 been a Fellow of St. Peter's College, Cambridge ; was 
 expelled during the troubles of the Civil War; on the 
 Restoration was made a Fellow of Eton, and was appointed 
 to the see of Sodor and Man in 1663. Thence he was 
 translated to St. Asaph. He founded here a hospital for 
 eight poor widows. His tomb, and the inscription on it, 
 are described in Part I. § 13. 
 
 [a.d. 1680— trans, to Lichfield 1692.] William Lloyd, 
 Dean of Bangor. He was one of the seven bishops sent to 
 the Tower by James II. From Lichfield he passed to 
 Worcester in 1699, and died in 1717. He was a man of 
 considerable learning, and the patron of Henry Wharton, 
 editor of the 4 Anglia Sacra.' The records of the Bishops 
 of St. Asaph's, undertaken at Bishop Lloyd's special re- 
 quest, were published separately (see Part I. note 1). 
 
 [a.d. 1692 — 1703.] Edward Jones ; trans, from Cloyne. 
 
 [a.d. 1703— trans, to Bath 1704.] George Hooper, Dean of 
 Canterbury. 
 
288 Stt. $m 9 \2* <£a%bral. 
 
 [a.d. 1704: — 1708.] William Beveridge ; whose name is 
 still held in reverence. He was born at Barrow, in 
 Leicestershire, in 1638, and was educated at St. John's 
 College, Cambridge, where he became a learned orientalist. 
 In 1661 he . was presented to the vicarage of Ealing in 
 Middlesex, but resigned that on becoming, in the following 
 year, rector of St. Peter's, Cornhill. Here his devoted 
 zeal, and the earnestness of his 66 discourses," were speedily 
 recognized ; and he became known as " the great reviver 
 and restorer of primitive piety." Hinchman, Bishop of 
 London, made him a prebendary of St. Paul's in 1674 ; 
 and his successor, Bishop Compton, gave him the Arch- 
 deaconry of Colchester, 1681. In 1684 he was appointed 
 to a prebendal stall in Canterbury Cathedral, and was also 
 made chaplain to William and Mary. He refused to 
 accept the see of Bath and Wells, which was offered 
 to him on the deprivation of Ken, — since he did not 
 choose to intrude himself during the lifetime of that pre- 
 late; but in 1704 he was consecrated to the see of St. 
 Asaph. Three years afterwards he died, and was buried 
 in St. Paul's, London. It is believed that he lived much 
 at Colfryn in Llansaintffraid yn Mechain, County Mont- 
 gomery ; and that he composed at that place many of his 
 later works. 
 
 The works of this excellent bishop which are best 
 remembered are — ' The Church Catechism explained for 
 the use of the Diocese of St. Asaph ' — published on his 
 first coming to the see in 1704 ; and his 6 Private Thoughts 
 on Keligion ; ' ' Private Thoughts on a Christian Life ; ' and 
 the ' Necessity and Advantage of Public Prayer and frequent 
 Communion,' — all published after his death. His ' Exposi- 
 tion of the 39 Articles/and his Sermons, were also printed 
 after his death — the former in 1710, the latter in 1708. 
 [a.d. 1708 — trans, to Ely 1714.] William Fleetwood. He 
 paved the Cathedral of St. Asaph, and "laid out 100?. 
 in adorning and painting the choir throughout." 
 
>p. SSgnnjc to |9orsIqi. 
 
 289 
 
 [a.d. 1715 — trans, to Bath 1727.] John Wynne, rector of 
 Jesus College, Oxford. He laid out "near 4:001. on his 
 Cathedral soon after his accession." 
 
 [a.d. 1727 — trans, to Chichester 1731.] Francis Hare, Dean 
 of St. Paul's. 
 
 [a.d. 1732 — 1735.] Thomas Tanner, Canon of Christ 
 Church, Oxford, where he was buried. Bishop Tanner 
 was an antiquary of considerable learning ; and his 
 'Notitia Monastica,' first published in 1695 (8vo), and 
 much enlarged in 1744 (folio), is still a work of authority. 
 His large MS. collections are preserved in the Bodleian. 
 His portrait was engraved by Vertue in 1736, at the 
 expense of the Society of Antiquaries. 
 
 [a.d. 1736 — trans, to Worcester 1743.] Isaac Maddox ; 
 author of a ' Vindication of the Government, Doctrine, 
 and Worship of the Church of England, established in 
 the reign of Queen Elizabeth.' 
 
 [a.d. 1744 — trans, to Norwich 1748.] Samuel Lisle. 
 
 [a.d. 1748 — trans, to Salisbury 1761.] Robert Hay Drum- 
 mond. In the same year he passed to York. 
 
 [a.d. 1761 — 1769.] Richard Newcome ; translated from 
 LlandafF. 
 
 [a.d. 1769 — 1788.] Jonathan Shipley ; trans, from Llan- 
 daff. He had acted as chaplain general to the army, 
 under the command of the Duke of Cumberland, in 1744 
 and 1745. It was in his time that a great part of the 
 choir was rebuilt (Part I. § 3). 
 
 [a.d. 1789 — 1790.] Samuel Hallifax ; translated from 
 Gloucester. He was the first bishop translated from an 
 English see to St. Asaph, and the second translated to 
 any see in North Wales. 
 
 [a.d. 1790—1802.] Lewis Bagot, translated from Norwich. 
 In 1783 he had passed from Bristol to Norwich. The 
 present palace was, for the most part, built by Bishop 
 Bagot. 
 
 [a.d. 1802—1806.] Samuel Horsley ; translated from 
 
 u 
 
290 Sit gMaplfs «a%toaL 
 
 Eochester ; to which see he had passed in 1793 from 
 St. David's. This was the famous opponent of Dr. 
 Priestley, with whom he maintained a long controversy 
 in defence of the Catholic doctrine of the Holy Trinity. 
 [a.d. 1806 — 1815.] William Cleaver ; translated from 
 Bangor ; to which see he had passed in 1800 from 
 Chester. 
 
 [a.d. 1815 — 1830.] John Luxmoore; translated from Here- 
 ford; whither he had passed from Bristol in 1808. 
 
 [a.d. 1830 — 1846.] William Carey ; translated from 
 Exeter. 
 
 [a.d. 1846 — 1870.] Thomas Vowler Short ; translated 
 
 from Sodor and Man. 
 [a.d. 1870 — .] Joshua Hughes. 
 
BANGOR CATHEDRAL. 
 
 FRONTISPIECE. 
 
 BAN GOR CATHEDRAL. EXTERIOR, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST, 
 
BANGOR CATHEDRAL. 
 
 BUTTRESS, END OF AISLE OF SOUTH 'FRAN RETT. 
 
REFERENCES. 
 
 A. Western Tower. 
 
 B. Nave. 
 
 C. Central Tower. 
 
 D. D. Transepts. 
 
 E. Choir. 
 
 F. Presbytery. 
 
 G. Organ Chamber. 
 
 H. Vestibule of CJvapter House. 
 
 J. Library, with Chapter House 
 above. 
 
 J. K. Vestry and Sacristry, as yet 
 
 unbuilt. 
 L. Arch now walled up. 
 M. Tomb Arch walled up. 
 N. Door walled up. 
 
 PLAN OF BANGOR CATHEDRAL. 
 
BANGOR CATHEDRAL 
 
 PAET I. 
 
 I THE history of Bangor Cathedral run& nearly 
 • parallel with that of St. Asaph. Both churches 
 suffered greatly during the war between Edward I. 
 and Llewellyn, and again at the beginning of the 
 fifteenth century during the rebellion of Owen Glen- 
 dower. After the first calamity both were rebuilt : 
 after the second both lay waste for some time ; and 
 Bangor, which had undergone far more complete 
 destruction than St. Asaph, was again rebuilt in the 
 late Perpendicular period, taking that general archi- 
 tectural character which it retained until the re- 
 storation still (1873) in progress under the care of 
 Sir G. G. Scott. This was plain and not very inte- 
 
 a There is no documentary evidence for tkeliistory of Bangor 
 Cathedral, and but scanty notices of it at any period. Browne 
 Willis's ' Survey ' of the Cathedral, published in 1721, contains 
 nearly all that is known relating to the see. In the 4 Archrcologia 
 Cambreiis^' (new series), vol. i. p. 188 (1850), will be found a 
 paper with the initials H. L. J., in which the Cathedral, as it 
 then existed, is well and carefully described. The two reports 
 of Sir G. G. Scott — the first made in 1866, before the restoration 
 was begun— the second in 1870, after the transepts had been 
 completed— are of the highest interest and value. 
 
 u 2 
 
^92 § mtg0 r ©atfcrimiL 
 
 resting ; and the internal fittings, much damaged and 
 altered during this long interval, were of the most 
 wretched description. Thus, wrote Sir Gilbert Scott, 
 in his first report, " while the neighbourhood has 
 been constantly increasing in wealth, while it has 
 become the resort of tourists from every part of the 
 kingdom, and has become possessed (to facilitate the 
 vast amount of traffic which passes through it) of 
 some of the greatest wonders of modern engineering 
 art, — its Cathedral has gradually sunk into such low 
 estate as to become almost a bye-word, — no Cathe- 
 dral in the United Kingdom being equal to it in 
 meanness." 
 
 II. The earlier changes of the buildiug, and the 
 discoveries which have influenced the present re- 
 storation, must be described at length. 
 
 The see of Bangor was probably founded by Deiniol 
 or Daniel, who was the first recorded bishop, and 
 who died a.d. 584 (see Part II.). The Welsh chro- 
 niclers, who alone mention the Welsh wars and ex- 
 peditions of Eadgar, assert that when he advanced to 
 Bangor in 975, he built there a church " on the north 
 side of the Cathedral," and at no great distance from 
 it. This church is said to have served as the parish 
 church until the reign of Henry VII. ; and the men- 
 tion of the Cathedral in connection with it is the 
 earliest reference to the existence of such a building. 
 According to the same authorities the Cathedral of 
 Bangor was destroyed by a Norman army in 1071. 
 It had been rebuilt, however, before 1211, when a 
 
fisturg. 
 
 293 
 
 portion of King John's army, encamped on the Con- 
 way Elver, advanced to Bangor, burnt the city, and 
 carried off from before the high altar of the Cathedral 
 Bishop Eobert of Shrewsbury, who was not released 
 until he had paid a ransom of two hundred hawks. 
 The church at this time was a Norman structure. 
 Of the building which it had replaced we know 
 nothing. The Norman church (in which Baldwin, 
 Archbishop of Canterbury, celebrated mass, when 
 preaching the crusade through Wales in 1188, and 
 in which, on that occasion, Gwiawn, Bishop of Bangor, 
 assumed the cross — see § xiv. and Part II.) was de- 
 stroyed during the Welsh wars of Edward I. ; and 
 most probably in the year 1282, when the Cathedral 
 of St. Asaph was burnt. b In June, 1284, John Peck- 
 ham, Archbishop of Canterbury, being then at Bangor, 
 issued a writ to the Prior of Bhuddlan and certain 
 other churchmen, directing them to inquire into the 
 
 b The exact year of the destruction is not recorded. The 
 diocese had been wasted by war in 1248, when the Bishop fled 
 to the hospitable Abbey of St. Alban's ; but it does not appear 
 that the Cathedral suffered at that time. It can hardly have 
 been injured in 1261, when Anian of St. Asaph's, and other 
 bishops, acted as arbitrators between the Bishop of Bangor and 
 Llewellyn. They mention acts of sacrilege in the destruction 
 of some churches, but say nothing of Bangor Cathedral. 
 (Haddan and Stubbs, ' Councils,' i. p. 489). Nor can it have 
 been destroyed in 1267, when Bishop Richard, wearied with 
 many troubles, prayed that the Pope, Clement IV., would allow 
 him to resign. He mentions many causes of distress, but he 
 does not, as he certainly would have done had it then occurred, 
 refer to the burning of his Cathedral. (Haddan and Stubbs, 
 i. 469.) It seems most probable that Bangor suffered in the 
 same year as St. As >ph. 
 
294 ^attgor Ca%bral. 
 
 damage done to the Welsh churches during the war, 
 and to report thereon to the King and to himself. 
 Their report has not been preserved : but late in the 
 same year, Anian, Bishop of Bangor, gave a receipt 
 to the Commissioners for a sum of 250Z. paid to him 
 as compensation for injuries sustained by the see (pro 
 dampnis nobis illatis in ultima guerra). d Anian of 
 Bangor was high in the favour of Edward I. In 
 April of this year (1284) he had baptized at Car- 
 narvon the infant Prince of Wales, born within his 
 diocese ; and certain manors in the counties of Car- 
 narvon and of Anglesey had been granted to him by 
 the King. 6 He seems to have found, or supplied, at 
 once the means for rebuilding his Cathedral, to which 
 he applied himself vigorously. The work must have 
 been still in progress in 1291 ; when a diocesan synod 
 convened by the Bishop assembled, not in the Cathe- 
 dral, but in the adjoining parish church of St. Mary's 
 of Garthbranan. f That Bishop Anian did not confine 
 his attention to the fabric of his church is proved by 
 his care for her services. It was he who drew up the 
 
 c Haddan and Stubbs, i. p. 558 ; and Kymer, i. 644. Arch- 
 bishop Peckham had been visiting the dioceses of St. Asaph and 
 Bangor as Metropolitan. 
 
 d Haddan and Stubbs, i. 581. 
 
 e The Manors of Bangor, Castellmay, and Garthgogo, county 
 Carnarvon ; and of Cantred and Treftbs, in Anglesey. — Browne 
 Willis. 
 
 f Haddan and Stubbs, i. 597. The Synod is described as 
 " celebrata in ecclesia beatse Mariae de Garthbranan apud 
 Bangoriam ...... toto clero diocesis Bangorensis ad hoc 
 
 convocato." 
 
Piaiorg. 295 
 
 Missale or Pontificale "in usum Ecclesiae Bancho- 
 rensis ; " thus providing a " use of Bangor," as there 
 were " uses " of Hereford, Salisbury, and York. 
 
 III. Bishop Anian seems to have rebuilt his Cathe- 
 dral almost from the grounds The work must have 
 been carried on after his death in 1305, since the 
 existing walls of the nave aisles date from about 
 1350. But there is no further mention of the Cathe- 
 dral until in the year 1404 it was again burnt by 
 the wild troops of Owen Glendower, — Welshmen 
 themselves destroying one of the most ancient of 
 Welsh sanctuaries. The destruction of Bangor must 
 have been far more complete than that of St. Asaph. 
 In the latter church the roofs alone can have perished ; 
 the walls now standing are, almost throughout, 
 those of the earlier structure. But at Bangor the 
 church was, for the most part, rebuilt. St. Asaph 
 remained in a ruined condition until Bishop Bed- 
 man (1471-1496) restored the roofs. Bangor was re- 
 built, the choir by Bishop Beane (1496-1500); 
 the nave and transepts by Bishop Skevington, or 
 SMrvington (1509-1533); who also built the western 
 tower, which (as appears from the date remaining on 
 it) was completed in the year before his death. Like 
 all the earlier builders Bishop Deane and Bishop 
 Skevington regarded but lightly the works of their 
 predecessors. It is possible that the clerestory win- 
 
 s A Norman fragment was allowed to remain in the south 
 wall of the chancel ; and in one or two places Norman work 
 was made to form the core of Decorated masonry. (See § VI.) 
 
296 ganger <Ka%trraI. 
 
 dows of the nave may have formed part of the earlier 
 church ; but, if so, they must have been removed and 
 rejdaced, and, on the whole, this amount of care 
 seems improbable. The walls of the nave aisles 
 survived the fire. The beautiful work of the time of 
 Edward L, which was, no doubt, in a ruined con- 
 dition, was altogether disregarded in the rebuilding ; 
 and its shattered fragments were built into the new 
 walls in every direction. The only portion of Anian's 
 church which remained visible were certain external 
 buttresses on the front of the North Transept. 
 
 Bishop Bulkeley, who presided over the see during 
 the troubled years between 1542 and 1553, sold 
 " sundry of the church ornaments " — mitres, copes, 
 and chalices — and possibly disposed in the same 
 manner of some of the bells (see Part II.). He 
 admits in his will that he had a sum of money in 
 his keeping " of the church goods ; " and by the 
 advice of Doctor Glynn and others of the canons, 
 " he did fully bestow the same and much more in the 
 repairs of the church." The nave and transepts 
 appear to have been ceiled with timber by Bishop 
 Bovilands (1598-1616) ; whose name, with the date 
 1611, was to be seen on the beams of each ceiling 
 when Browne Willis drew up his account of the 
 Cathedral. 11 The Cathedral, like that of St. Asaph, 
 
 h This was printed in 1721. The double Monument of Bishops 
 Vaughan and Rowlands, with "busts from the waist " — "their 
 heads beaten off in time of the rebellion " — then remained at 
 the east end of the choir. The inscription ran — " Pise memoriae 
 duorum Episcoporum in hac ecclesia proxime succedentium — qui 
 
fistorg. 297 
 
 suffered greatly during the Civil War. All the wood- 
 work of the interior was then destroyed, and the 
 stained glass was shattered ; although some frag- 
 mentary figures of saints and bishops remained in 
 the great east window for Browne Willis to notice ; 
 besides portions in other windows of the choir, with 
 a prayer " pro bono statu Magistri Kiffin Decani," 
 and of Maurice Bangor, Canon of Castle Keby. After 
 the Eestoration the church was refitted ; and the stalls 
 of the choir were possibly at that time brought down 
 so as to occupy two bays of the nave. Browne Willis 
 describes the church as " very lightsome, and the 
 nave and pillars appear very clean. The floor of the 
 nave is well flagged," except a void space about 
 twenty-one feet eastward of the tower, " where some 
 ordinary folks are commonly buryed." " The roof is 
 covered throughout with lead, and cieled within with 
 timber. In the ceiling of the nave are nine beams 
 well wrought, and beautifyed with carved work. The 
 cielings of the side aisles are firm but plain: the 
 floors of earth, being left so for conveniency of burial." 
 Willis's examination of the church was made before 
 a restoration of the great east window — which, it is 
 known, was effected early in the eighteenth century 
 (see § xii.). 
 
 IV. If the Cathedral had remained in this con- 
 dition it would have been poor enough. But in this 
 
 fuerunt contigue nati, coetanei, sibi invicem cari, condiscipuli, 
 
 consanguinei Mutuo amore alter utri^ue hoc struxit 
 
 monumentum. 1G0G." 
 
298 gjmgor <Ea%bral. 
 
 lowest depth there was a lower still. The roof of the 
 nave was altered during the episcopate of Bishop 
 Cleaver (1800-1806), and all its carved work was 
 destroyed. A repair of the fabric was undertaken 
 between the years 1824 and 1827. The stalls were 
 then swept away ; and, in the words of Sir Gilbert 
 Scott, " the most execrable jimcrack substituted that 
 ever disgraced a church/' 1 The carved roofs de- 
 scribed by Browne Willis were replaced by plain 
 deal : and a heavy closed screen carrying the organ 
 loft was constructed, entirely separating the nave from 
 the choir. The latter was used exclusively for English 
 services. The Welsh congregation, driven from the 
 worthiest portion of their own Cathedral, were treated 
 like Willis's " ordinary folks," and an occasional ser- 
 vice in their native tongue was provided for them in 
 the nave. This was the condition of Bangor until Sir 
 Gilbert Scott, in the year 1866, was requested by the 
 Dean and Chapter to report on it. It should be said 
 that although the sinecure of Llandinam, worth 1121. 
 a year, was appropriated as an endowment for the 
 repair of the choir, by Act of Parliament in 1685, 
 this proved of so little use for securing that repair 
 permanently, that " up to the year 1855 the only 
 fund which the Dean and Chapter possessed for that, 
 and every other purpose in connection with the Fabric, 
 was a sum of 60Z. a year." k 
 
 1 ' First Report.' 
 
 k This is stated in an appeal from the Dean and Chapter on 
 behalf of the n storation. 
 
Starff i |lcstor:itxou. 299 
 
 V. Sir Gilbert Scott, in his first report (18G6), de- 
 scribes the Cathedral as having externally "the ap- 
 pearance of a large, but unambitious and somewhat 
 uninteresting parish church ; and the same would be 
 the case within were it not for the unhappy attempt 
 to assist its Cathedral character by the absurd process 
 of cutting it in two." 1 After dwelling at some length 
 on the buttresses of the South Transept, "the soli- 
 tary evidence remaining of the character of the older 
 church" (as then appeared), and referring to the 
 existing proofs of the ancient extent of the choir and 
 the position of the stalls, he suggested two courses, — 
 either of which might be followed in the restoration. 
 (1) The works "might be limited to the thorough 
 reparation of the fabric " — as it then stood — " with 
 the worthy fitting up and seemly decoration of its 
 interior ; " or (2) to such a reparation might be added 
 " the restoration or partial reconstruction of the choir, 
 the transepts, and the chapter room in such a style as 
 is indicated by their few remaining early fragments " 
 — a scheme which might be crowned by the addition 
 of a fine central tower, such as, there was reason to 
 believe, had before existed, or had at least been pre- 
 pared for. This second course involved (as it was 
 then thought) a certain amount of historical loss, 
 and would be a departure from the conservative line 
 of treatment usually contended for by Sir G. G. Scott. 
 
 1 Storer (' Cathedrals,' 1814) says that the Cathedral " would 
 appear to assimilate with the ancient, unostentatious manners 
 of the inhabitants; firm, though unassuming: respectable, but 
 unadorned." 
 
300 gSmtgor <Ka%irntL 
 
 But the special circumstances of the case — the rude 
 existing Perpendicular work, and the beauty of the 
 Decorated fragments then visible — seemed to warrant 
 its adoption. 
 
 VI. Accordingly, and, as the event has proved, 
 most happily, the Dean and Chapter determined to 
 adopt it ; and the first contract, for the restoration of 
 the North and South Transepts, and for the con- 
 struction of the central tower to the ridge of the roof, 
 at a cost of 10,477Z., was at once undertaken ; the 
 sum being raised by subscription in the diocese and 
 Principality. This determination led necessarily to 
 the thorough examination of the transept walls and of 
 other portions of the building. The walls (as had 
 been the case at St. David's and elsewhere) proved to 
 be rich mines of debris ; and afforded wrought stones, 
 which, by patient study, and a skill such as that by 
 which palaeontologists are enabled to reconstruct the 
 skeleton of an entire animal from a mere fragment of 
 its structure, were made to disclose, with tolerable 
 certainty, a large portion of the design of the tran- 
 septs, and parts even of that of the chancel, — as they 
 stood when completed in the days of Bishop Anian. 
 Thus, although the late Perpendicular work has dis- 
 appeared from the transepts, the reconstruction at 
 Bangor is a true restoration ; bringing back the eastern 
 portion of the church to its earlier and far more 
 beautiful condition; every ancient fragment, so far 
 as was possible, having been carefully wSrked into 
 the new structure, and made to assume in it the 
 
Skott's |Ushratkm. 301 
 
 same place which it held in the walls of the Deco- 
 rated church. 
 
 The results of this examination are described and 
 illustrated in Sir Gilbert Scott's second report (1870). 
 "This exhuming and restoring to their places," he 
 writes in 1869, " the fragments of the beautiful work 
 of the thirteenth century — reduced to ruin by Owen 
 Glendower ; used as mere rough material by Henry 
 VII. ; and rediscovered by us four and a half cen- 
 turies after their reduction to ruin — is one of the 
 most interesting facts I have met with in the course 
 of my experience." 111 In the course of the exami- 
 nation, besides obtaining evidence of the design of 
 the work of the time of Edward I., much light was 
 thrown on the ground plan and construction of the 
 earlier Norman church. The only remains of that 
 structure which were visible were limited to a small 
 portion of the south wall of the chancel, where a 
 walled-up Norman window was to be distinguished, 
 and, east of it, a narrow Norman buttress. On cutting 
 into the wall east of this buttress, its eastern face 
 was found to continue directly into the thickness of 
 the wall, showing that all eastward of it was a later 
 addition ; and the foundations of a Norman apse were 
 afterwards discovered springing from the buttress. 
 The Norman Cathedral thus terminated eastward in 
 a semicircular apse, and was considerably shorter than 
 the present building. A Norman base-course was 
 
 m Letter to the Clerk of the Works, printed in an address of 
 the Dean and Chapter. 
 
302 fmtgor Ca%braL 
 
 found to extend westward from the buttress for some 
 feet, until cut off by the insertion of a fourteenth cen- 
 tury tomb. It reappeared in the east wall of the 
 South Transept, and continued to within twelve feet 
 of the present extent of the transept, where it turned 
 inward, showing the Norman Transept to have been 
 twelve feet shorter than the present one. And, on 
 excavating internally on the sites of the four great 
 piers of the crossing, below the bases of the fourteenth 
 century piers (also discovered) those of the Norman 
 piers were found. They had recessed angles, giving 
 a double break ; and among the debris in the walls 
 occurred a portion of a Norman shaft, carved with 
 zigzag ornaments, which possibly stood in one of 
 these resalient angles; the back of the shaft being 
 square, as if to fit into a nook. The general limits 
 of the eastern half of the Norman church have thus 
 been exactly determined. 
 
 VII. It will be better to describe the discoveries 
 relating to the Decorated period in examining those 
 portions of the Cathedral to which they belong. But 
 without such a notice as has here been given, of the 
 successive changes and increasing degradation under- 
 gone by the church, it would be impossible to appre- 
 ciate fairly the knowledge and patient skill which 
 have been brought to bear on the present restoration. 
 The stranger who now enters Bangor Cathedral can 
 have but an imperfect idea of the meanness, the gloom, 
 and the dirt from which it has happily been delivered 
 under the auspices of Sir Gilbert Scott. Llandaff has 
 
303 
 
 been transformed from a neglected ruin to a church 
 of the highest beauty and interest. St. David's, for a 
 long period almost unknown, has recovered much of 
 its ancient dignity. Bangor is in itself less important 
 and less interesting than either of these churches ; far 
 less so, of course, than St. David's, which is one of 
 the most remarkable structures in Great Britain. But 
 the restoration here is, in some respects, more striking. 
 It is no small triumph to have brought again to light 
 so much of the design of Bishop Anians church, of 
 which but the merest fragment was ap23arently in 
 existence ; and to have rendered once more legible 
 the most interesting chapter in the history of Bangor 
 Cathedral. 
 
 VIII. Bangor {see the Frontispiece), like the other 
 
 Welsh Cathedrals, except St. Asaph, stands on low 
 
 ground. The churchyard surrounding it is bordered 
 
 by fine sycamores and horse chestnuts, which give 
 
 some picturesque character to the general view. But 
 
 this is nowhere good. The city itself lies in a 
 
 hollow. Steep hills rise about it on all sides ; 
 
 and although fine views are commanded from these 
 
 hills, overlooking Bangor, in which the Cathedral 
 
 is conspicuous, a nearer prospect, displaying it to 
 
 any great advantage, is not to be obtained. The 
 
 ground plan has in no respect been altered by the 
 
 restoration. It consists of western tower, nave, and 
 
 aisles, a central tower," with North and South Tran- 
 
 n The central tower is now (1873) rising. Whether one 
 existed anciently is not quite certain. But the ground plan has 
 not been altered. 
 
304 ganger 
 
 septs, and choir, with an addition on the south side, 
 consisting of a muniment room with a chapter room 
 above. On the east side of the South Transept the 
 foundations of an additional building have been dis- 
 covered, which it is proposed to restore eventually. 
 With the exception of this addition, and of the western 
 tower (also an addition to the plan of the Decorated 
 church), the ground plan is precisely that of St. 
 Asaph ; the destroyed chapter house in that Cathedral 
 answering in position to the muniment and chapter 
 rooms here. 
 
 The Western Toiver, at present the most striking 
 external feature of the church, is, as has been said, 
 the work of Bishop Skevington (1509-1533). It rises 
 in three stages, with diagonal buttresses of six stages 
 each. The arch of the doorway, under a square label, 
 is plain but unusually graceful. A window of three 
 lights, with a deeply hollowed moulding, and with 
 plain Perpendicular tracery in the head of the arch, 
 is on the west front in the stage immediately above 
 the doorway. On the stringcourse under the window 
 runs the inscription, — " Thomas Skevynton episcopus 
 Bangorie hoc campanele (sic) et ecclesiam fieri fecit, 
 A° Partus Virginei 1532." The third, or belfry stage 
 of the tower, has a window of three lights on each 
 side. A battlement with gurgoyles and crocketted 
 pinnacles rises above this stage. The entire height 
 is 60 feet. 
 
 IX. The tower opens through a lofty arch to the 
 nave (Plate I.), which until the restoration was cut across 
 
BANGOR CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE I, 
 
 BANG-OB CA'LHELRAL, 
 
 INTERIOR, FROM THE WEST 
 
gnbz. 305 
 
 at the fourth bay from the west by the heavy organ loft, 
 but has now regained its full extent of six bays. The 
 length, from the tower to the central crossing, is 
 114 feet. The arcade, at any rate, is Perpendicular, 
 and the whole, no doubt, represents the " ecclesia " 
 built by Bishop Skevington. The arches are widely 
 spaced, four-centred, of two orders, with hollow cham- 
 fers and discontinuous imposts. The piers are octa- 
 gonal, with bases of three stages. In each aisle are 
 six windows, each of three lights. Those in the north 
 aisle are all distinctly Perpendicular in their tracery, 
 though the jambs are, perhaps, of earlier date. Those 
 in the south aisle have their heads occupied by three 
 quatrefoiled circles, and are of Decorated character. 
 There is a tradition that all the windows of the nave 
 were brought from the ancient parish church of St. 
 Mary's, Garthbrennan, which stood in the Bishop's 
 grounds, north-east of the Cathedral, and which w T as 
 pulled down early in the sixteenth century. If this was 
 really the case the heads of the windows in the north 
 aisle must have been altered. But it is certain that 
 the walls of the nave belonged to the church in exist- 
 ence before Glendower's time, and that they survived 
 the destruction of the arcade. The clerestory windows 
 are of triple lights, without foliations. The modern 
 roofs of both nave and aisles are at present (1873) 
 plain and rude. But the restoration will in due 
 time extend to them. No other change is contem- 
 plated in this part of the Cathedral. 
 
 x 
 
306 gattgar (Ka%braL 
 
 In the second bay from the west, north and south, 
 are plain Perpendicular doorways. 
 
 The font, of late but good work, is octangular with 
 enriched panels. On the shaft are shields. 
 
 X. From the nave we pass at once into the re- 
 stored, and, it may be said, rediscovered, portion of 
 the church. 
 
 The transepts, which open north and south from the 
 central tower, are of no great depth. Before the 
 restoration they seemed, on the interior, to be entirely 
 Perpendicular, except in the jambs of the two great 
 windows, where some mouldings of earlier character 
 were visible. Each of these windows (at the north 
 and south ends of the transept) were four-centred, of 
 five lights without foliations, and with vertical tracery 
 in the heads. They were " so similar to those in the 
 collegiate church of Clynnog fawr that they be con- 
 jectured to have been erected by the same architect ; 
 and it is by no means improbable that Bishop Skev- 
 ington employed for his work whoever it was that 
 erected that more stately pile to the south of Car- 
 narvon." The walls of the transepts were, however, 
 in dangerous condition. It was necessary that large 
 portions of them should be taken down and rebuilt ; 
 and in them were discovered many fragments of the 
 earlier windows, — proving that the rebuilders of the 
 time of Henry VII., " with their customary disregard 
 
 H. L. J. — in ' Arch. Cambrensis ' (New Series', vol. i. 
 
of tlie works of their predecessors, threw the details of 
 the older architect into the walls as mere material 
 unworthy of notice." p The Perpendicular work was 
 not very good or very interesting ; and it was deter- 
 mined to replace the Decorated windows of which so 
 many portions had been found. The remains dis- 
 covered of the South window agreed precisely with 
 the portions in situ, — the lower parts of the jambs 
 and the cill. " But those which formed parts of the 
 North window showed that the existing jambs had 
 been refixed and displaced ; that the width was not 
 that of the original window ; that the jambs had been 
 turned inside out, and that one member had been cut 
 away to suit a wall four inches thinner than the 
 old one." q 
 
 " As regards the South window " (it is best to quote 
 the exact words of Sir G. G. Scott) — " the jambs being 
 in their old places — the first question was how many 
 lights it had had. One side of one of the arches was 
 found incorporated with a part of the circle of the 
 tracery. The width of this seemed to indicate a 
 window of five lights, yet we could not make it fit. 
 In time, however, we discovered a fragment which 
 proved that instead of one window of five lights there 
 had been two windows of two lights, each with circles 
 in the heads ; and, this fact proved, all became easy. 
 But what was there to fill up the space over these two 
 windows ? We found a large circle with nine cusps, 
 
 p Sir G. G. Scott. ' Second Report.' 
 « Id. id., p. 21. 
 
308 § m % ox «a%braL 
 
 and with fragments of the moulded orders which sur- 
 rounded it, just agreeing with the space to be filled, 
 and with the thickness of the wall. This we have, 
 with confidence, placed over the two windows, and 
 thus perfected this group." r (Plate II.) 
 
 The North window proved to have been one window 
 of four lights (Plate III.). Extensive remains of the 
 mullions were found, including the upper stones both of 
 the central mullion and the jambs, each with carved 
 capitals. Springers of the tracery arches, " beautiful 
 mouldings enriched with the dog-tooth,' ' were also 
 found ; besides portions of the cusped tracery circles. 
 And, " although the jambs which had been re-used 
 had been cropped in their thickness to suit a reduced 
 wall, we found many portions of unmutilated jamb 
 stones which showed us their true size." s The win- 
 dows, thus happily restored, possess all the grace and 
 beauty of proportion which distinguish the best works 
 of the Early Decorated period. Portions of a third 
 window were also found, which was possibly the east 
 window of the choir. 
 
 The arches opening from the nave aisles to the 
 transepts have been restored in accordance with the 
 many fragments of them discovered in the walls. 
 The lower parts of their jambs were found in situ. 
 The levels of the ancient floors, both of the Norman 
 and Decorated buildings, were much lower than those 
 of the Perpendicular rebuilding, " while, oddly 
 
 r Sir G. G. Scott. ' Second Report/ p. 24. 
 
 8 Id. id. 
 
BANGOR CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PI ATE III. 
 
 BANGOR CATHEDRAL. WINDOW OF NORTH TRANSEPT 
 
SEranflept. (ffmtral Kofow. 309 
 
 enougli, tlie floor of tlie north transept was consi- 
 derably lower than that of the south transept." * In 
 restoring the arch opening to the north transept some 
 alteration was necessary, since the old difference of 
 level could not be retained. 
 
 In the east wall of each transept was a similar but 
 wider arch, which has been carefully restored. That 
 in the north transept opened to the vestibule of the 
 muniment room ; that in the south to a large chapel 
 or double sacristy, the foundations of which have been 
 discovered, but which as yet has not been rebuilt (see 
 ground-plan). The transept arch, although restored, 
 has accordingly been walled up for the present. 
 
 XI. The piers and arches of the great crossing (now 
 the central toiver) were, when Browne Willis wrote, of 
 Decorated character, — portions, of course, of Bishop 
 Anian's church. The arches were of three orders ; 
 the piers had imbedded shafts. These arches were 
 removed about the year 1824 (when the organ screen 
 — ante, § IV. — was constructed), and were replaced by 
 four-centred arches, at the height of the clerestory, 
 and resting on corbels. The low and massive cha- 
 racter of the earlier piers and arches suggested to 
 Willis that they were designed to carry a central 
 tower ; and the examination which has now been made 
 proves that he was correct. Below the bases of the 
 fifteenth century piers were found those of the Nor- 
 man piers, — proving that the ground plan of the two 
 
 ■ Id. id. 
 
310 §mtg0r Ca%irntL 
 
 buildings was in this portion identical. The responds 
 of the thirteenth century piers were placed in advance 
 of the older Norman responds. The thirteenth cen- 
 tury work (destroyed in 1824) had clustered shafts on 
 the north, south, and east. The responds of the 
 western arch were vast semicircular piers. Frag- 
 ments of all these, as well as of the arches which 
 they carried, have been found ; and the present piers 
 and arches have been re-erected in accordance with 
 them, but with some additional strength, necessary for 
 the support of the tower which will eventually be 
 raised on them. 
 
 The addition of this tower (now only carried as 
 high as the roof line) will give much increased dignity 
 and Cathedral character to the church. There is a blind 
 arcade in the stage above the tower arches. The archi- 
 tectural arrangement of a central and western towers, 
 in line, unsupported and unflanked by others, is un- 
 usual ; but it was formerly to be found at Hereford 
 and at Ely. At Wymondham, in Norfolk, the two 
 towers — one of which is, indeed, a shell — still remain ; 
 and there are still two at Wimborne Minster. 
 
 In the corner of the south aisle of the nave, ad- 
 joining the south-west pier of the crossing, was dis- 
 covered "an old respond in situ, belonging to an 
 earlier nave arcade than that now existing. It is 
 rather a rich clustered pier, probably of the four- 
 teenth century ; and its position shows the older nave 
 to have been some three feet wider across from pillar 
 to pillar than the present one." 
 
CfcHtttxL 311 
 
 " Fragments of pillars and arches, also of the four- 
 teenth century, but differing from these, v/ere found 
 while underpinning the foundations of these parts. 
 This nave must have been the latest part of the old 
 church, agreeing in style with the present outer walls, 
 and was of no great age when Owen Glendower burned 
 the Cathedral." u 
 
 XII. The architectural history of the eastern arm of 
 the church is sufficiently clear. It has already been 
 mentioned that foundations of the Norman apse have 
 been discovered, springing from the Norman buttress 
 still remaining in the south wall. This eastern ter- 
 mination of the Norman church was of no great length. 
 It formed, of course, the presbytery, with the high 
 altar ; and the choir, as in most churches of its date, 
 was placed under the central tower, and perhaps, ex- 
 tended westward into the nave. It would seem that 
 this apse was found short and inconvenient before the 
 rebuilding under Bishop Anian ; since, in the south 
 wall of the extended building, the jambs of two lancet 
 windows have been found, which, in Sir G. Scott's 
 opinion, are " too plain to form a part of the beau- 
 tiful work -of the time of Edward I." However this 
 may be, the eastern arm of the church, as it existed 
 in the Decorated period, was prolonged to nearly 
 double the extent of the Norman apse. Its termi- 
 nation was square ; and on the north side, parallel 
 with it, extended a range of building (muniment room 
 
 u Scott's ' Second Report/ 
 
312 gangor (ftaijjebral. 
 
 and chapter house), to which the principal entrance 
 was from the North Transept. The ground plan, in 
 fact, was precisely what it is at present. The stalls 
 of the choir, at this time, occupied the same position 
 as in the Norman church — they were below the tower, 
 while the structural choir formed the sanctuary. Bishop 
 Deane (1496-1500) restored (it may more properly be 
 said rebuilt) the presbytery after the destruction by 
 Owen Glendower. In this restoration a portion of the 
 south side of the Norman apse was allowed to remain, 
 as it has remained during the changes of the Early 
 English and Decorated periods. The wall above this 
 Norman work, and the eastern parts, were entirely re- 
 built, — fragments of Bishop Anian's church being 
 worked up in them. At the east end was inserted a 
 large Perpendicular window. Another large window, 
 of five lights, was inserted on the south side ; and high 
 in the wall west of it, above the Norman masonry, were 
 two smaller Perpendicular windows of three lights. In 
 the north wall, against which the chapter house range 
 abutted, was a doorway opening to the ancient muniment 
 room. (There is an archway on a higher level above it, 
 which is not very intelligible.) The arrangement 
 of windows was adopted in consequence of a change 
 in the disposition of the choir. The stalls were now 
 placed within the eastern arm. The two westernmost 
 windows were in the wall above them. The large 
 south-eastern window, at a much lower level, lighted 
 the shortened sanctuary. 
 
 Bishop Deane's work suffered greatly during the 
 
^tBtoxntxaxt of Cbmrtel. 313 
 
 troubles of the Civil War, when the stalls were de- 
 stroyed. Early in the eighteenth century the great 
 east window seems to have fallen into so shattered a 
 condition that its renewal was necessary. The window 
 then inserted must have been a copy of the old. It 
 was of five lights, cinquefoiled, and divided by a 
 transom, with vertical tracery in the head. This 
 window, filled with bad modern glass, remained until 
 the present (1873) restoration. 
 
 Although some portions of the earlier work were 
 found in the walls, this eastern arm united in itself 
 so remarkably " the evidences of the three-fold history 
 of the church — its reconstruction after early Norman 
 devastation early in the twelfth century, its enlarge- 
 ment in the thirteenth century, and its restoration in 
 the time of Henry VII." x — that it was thought the 
 most fitting course to restore it as it stood, without 
 making any attempt to renew the Decorated pres- 
 bytery of Anian's time. This has accordingly been 
 done, and the main features of Bishop Deane's work 
 remain unaltered, except that fragments of Anian's 
 buttresses having been found, they have been added to 
 the exterior of the choir, where they probably belonged. 
 Bishop Deane's arrangement of the choir has also 
 been preserved ; since by this means the whole of 
 the space under the tower, besides the transepts, is 
 left free for congregational uses. 
 
 The present windows of the choir (see Plate II., 
 
 * Sir G. G. Scott. 
 
314 ganger <KH%ftraL 
 
 where they are shown), are Perpendicular, and have 
 not been altered. The roof, the stall-work, the furni- 
 ture, and the pavement, are entirely new. The pavement 
 has been designed after patterns of ancient tiles, found 
 in this eastern arm, some of them in situ. They are of 
 very good character, and are of a green colour, formed 
 by the glazing. (See engravings at the end of Part L 
 and Part II.) The roof has been restored to its 
 older and higher pitch ; and now consists internally 
 of a rich timber vaulting, gilt and coloured. The wall 
 round and above the East window has been elabo- 
 rately painted. In the uppermost stage appears Our 
 Lord in glory. Below are figures of saints. 
 
 XIII. Bangor Cathedral was never rich in monu- 
 ments. Those which now remain, and are noticeable, 
 are — 
 
 In the choir, two tombs, dating from early in the 
 fourteenth century, and therefore of the same early 
 Decorated character as Bishop Anian's work. They 
 are placed on either side of the choir, and close to the 
 tower piers, passing quite through the wall. Below 
 that on the south side a door opened from the choir 
 into the chapel east of the south transept. (This 
 doorway still exists, and has been restored; but is 
 at present walled up, for the sake of strengthening 
 the tower.) We are told that Bishop Anian Sais 
 (the " Saxon "), who died in 1328, and was the 
 successor, but one, of that Bishop Anian who began 
 the restoration of the church, was buried " in a wall 
 between the choir and the altar ; " and one of these 
 
$omb of @lnzn ©fogtwbjf. 315 
 
 tombs is probably bis. In 1365 a certain Tudor ap 
 Grono ap Tudor was buried " in tbe wall on tbe right 
 side of tbe choir." The tomb, therefore, on the south 
 side, is probably his. Both, however, are of the 
 same date; and both must have been prepared, as 
 was not unusual, during the Decorated reconstruction 
 of the choir. 
 
 In the South Transept an inscription against the 
 wall records that the body " interred within this wall, 
 in a stone coffin," is supposed to be that of Owen 
 Gwynedh, sovereign Prince of Wales. " He reigned 
 32 years, and died a.d. 1169. Both this prince and 
 his brother Cadwallader were buried in this Cathedral 
 church. History represents them as highly distin- 
 guished for courage, humanity, and courteous manners. 
 Their father, Gryffydh ap Cynan, the last sovereign 
 known by the title of King of Wales, overthrew Tra- 
 haern ap Caradoc, and ascended the throne of his 
 ancestors, a.d. 1079. He was afterwards taken by 
 treachery, and imprisoned in the castle at Chester 
 twelve years. He escaped, recovered the entire pos- 
 session of his kingdom, reigned 57 years, and died in 
 his 83rd year. He was buried near the great altar 
 which, with the larger part of the Fabrick, was de- 
 stroyed during the insurrection of Owen Glendwr, 
 about a.d. 1404." 
 
 When Giraldus Cambrensis was at Bangor with 
 Archbishop Baldwin in the year 1188, the tombs of 
 the two princes, Owen and Cadwallader, were shown 
 to them in the presbytery, before the high altar. 
 
316 § anger <Ka%bral. 
 
 This was in the Norman church. But Owen had 
 died excommunicated by St. Thomas of Canterbury, 
 " ob publicum cum consobrina incestum ; " and Arch- 
 bishop Baldwin directed that the Bishop of Bangor, 
 seizing a fit opportunity, should remove the body 
 from the church. y Whether this injunction was ever 
 obeyed does not appear, and it is more likely that it 
 was neglected. On the lengthening of the eastern 
 arm the remains may have been removed to their 
 present position. But this is uncertain, and we have 
 only the local tradition in support of the belief that 
 the coffin of the prince was really immured here. Above 
 the inscription a rude stone crucifix is built into the 
 wall. The head of the Saviour is much inclined 
 on the right side. 
 
 One other memorial in the church deserves mention. 
 This is a tablet in the North Transept for the Reve- 
 rend Gronovil Owen, — a Welsh " bard " of great local 
 reputation. He was, according to the inscription, 
 born in Anglesey in 1722 ; was educated at Jesus 
 College, Oxford ; and " omnibus fere bonis literis 
 imbutus patriam linguam devinctissimo amore ex- 
 coluit, auxit, ditavit. Tandem quum illi bene de 
 
 y " Ostensum est nobis principis Oenei sepulchrum, qui in 
 presbyterio coram altare cum fratre juniore Cadwaiadro, in spe- 
 lunca duplici jacebant : quanquam tamen Oeneus ob publicum 
 cum consobrina incestum, a beato martyre Thoma excommuni- 
 catus obierit. Injuncto itaque loci illius episcopo ut visa oppor- 
 tunitate et occasione captata, corpus ab ecclesia quantocius 
 
 ejiceret, per litora maritima iter incunctanter arripui- 
 
 mus." — Giraldus, Itin. Kambrise, ii. 8. 
 
<%pta f oust. 317 
 
 literis, bene de patria merito nullus tamen Maecenas 
 arrideret, nullus enm patronus exciperet, id quod sui 
 negarant apud exteros quserens perfugium in trans- 
 atlantic^ terris obscurus vixit, ignotus obiit. Ne talis 
 viri penitus exolescat memoria hoc qualecunque sit 
 monumentum Monenses sui et alii quidam fako/movo-cu 
 ponendum curaverunt, mdcccxxxi." Eight lines of 
 Welsh verse follow. 
 
 XIV. Before the present restoration was begun, 
 among the few portions of visible work more ancient 
 than the time of Henry VII., were the base-moulds 
 of the building extending along the north side of the 
 choir, and containing the muniment room and chapter 
 house. These were sufficient to show that this building 
 had formed part of the Decorated work. But it had 
 been rebuilt in the Perpendicular period or later. 
 All the windows were of modern character, and the 
 greater part were closed. The condition of the inte- 
 rior indicated long continued neglect and decay. 
 
 This range of building, forming an aisle of equal 
 length with the choir, has been entirely reconstructed ; 
 and here the return has been made to the Early Deco- 
 rated of the time of Edward I., in accordance with 
 the character of the ancient base-moulds. The most 
 westerly division, into which the entrance is through 
 the eastern arch of the transept, serves as an 
 organ-chamber. On the east side of this there is an 
 approach by steps to the vestibule of the muniment 
 room. To this vestibule there is also an outer en- 
 trance in the north wall ; and stairs ascend from it to 
 
318 giattgor <Ea%bral. 
 
 tlie chapter room above. The muniment room beyond 
 is lighted by four small windows, two in the east wall 
 and two in the north. In the upper room will be 
 arranged the library belonging to the chapter, which 
 boasts of some rare Aldines and Stephenses — and 
 which, it may be hoped, will now receive something 
 like proper care and attention. This building was 
 originally roofed with transverse ridges, and gables 
 facing north. 
 
 XV. Eeturning to the exterior of the Cathedral, 
 the buttresses of the nave walls, and the windows of 
 the nave, should be observed. The difference in the 
 two sides may perhaps indicate that the north wall of 
 the nave is more ancient than the south, although 
 both formed part of the church ruined by Owen 
 Glendower. The buttresses on the south side are 
 plain, and rise in two stages. Those on the north 
 side have three sets-off, and are banded by a string 
 course running along below the windows. In the 
 head of each buttress is a trefoiled recess. (For the 
 south side of the nave, see the Frontispiece?) 
 
 The doorways, north and south in the nave, have 
 continuous mouldings, without imposts ; and may be 
 compared with the earlier work of similar character 
 at St. Asaph. 
 
 By far the most interesting part of the exterior, 
 however, is the South Transept. Before the restoration 
 three buttresses existing on the south front of the 
 transept were the principal evidences of the recon- 
 struction of the church by Bishop Anian. Two of 
 
ffiratrflejyi; ©sterior. 319 
 
 these were at the angles of the front ; and the third, 
 nmch shorter, below the great window. The buttresses 
 were in complete ruin; but sufficient remained to 
 show their very fine character. They were gabled, 
 and their corners were moulded and shafted; the 
 shafts, which had long perished, having been in four 
 lengths in each buttress, and tied by moulded bands. 
 The design was nearly the same as that of the (then 
 far more ruined) buttresses of the Lady Chapel at 
 Chester, — indicating, in the opinion of Sir G. G. Scott, 
 that they were the work of the same architect. 
 
 In examining the more modern side walls of the 
 transept numerous remains of buttresses were found, 
 "nearly similar in design to those still existing, 
 though in parts somewhat richer, and having foliated 
 carving both in connection with their caps and bases." 7 ' 
 They proved the former existence of five additional 
 buttresses, — though where these stood is uncertain. 
 Two may have flanked the east and west sides of the 
 transept, and three the east end of the chancel. " I 
 have assumed," writes Sir G. G. Scott, " the appropria- 
 tion of the first two, though unable to account for the 
 flanking buttresses differing (a little) from the front 
 ones. The evidence, however, seemed to me con- 
 clusive ; for we have stones showing that the lower 
 portion of the height of one of these buttresses was 
 incorporated with the end wall of an aisle; and we 
 have the actual intersection of the coping of the gable 
 of such aisle with the buttress, for which I can ima- 
 
 a Scott's ' Second Report.' 
 
320 ganger «a%kal. 
 
 gine no place excepting at the end of the east aisle of 
 the south transept, already proved to have existed, 
 and which it perfectly suits, and of whose roof it 
 gives us the pitch. Here, therefore, I have placed it." a 
 (See Title-page.) 
 
 The transept has accordingly been restored with the 
 additional buttresses. And in the course of restoring 
 the south window it was found that the short central 
 buttress was in its original position, and that it had 
 not been lessened, since it agreed precisely with the 
 plan of the central pier of the Decorated window. The 
 remaining fragments of buttresses have been built up 
 at the east end of the choir. 
 
 The corbel tables terminating the walls of transept 
 and choir have been restored in accordance with ex- 
 tensive remains found in the debris. Those of the 
 transept have trefoiled arches, were carried on corbels, 
 and have quatrefoils in the spandrils. Those in the 
 chancel differ slightly, and have no quatrefoils. 
 (Plate III.) The high roof of the choir is, as has been 
 said, modern. 
 
 The central tower has not, as yet, been carried above 
 the roof. But f he engraving {Frontispiece) will show 
 in what manner it is intended to complete it. It 
 will be seen that this central tower is to be much 
 loftier than Bishop Skevington's at the west end. 
 
 a ' Second Keport,' p. 21. 
 
BANGOR CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PLATE IV. 
 
 BANGOR CATHEDRAL. CORBEL TABLES ON EXTERIOR OF 
 TRANSEPT AND CHOIR. 
 
NOTE TO PAET I. § XV. 
 
 The remarkable buttresses of the South Transept should be 
 compared with those of the Lady Chapel at Chester. They 
 greatly resemble each other, and were probably the work of 
 the same architect. Sir G. G. Scott thus refers to them in a 
 lecture on the ' Architectural History of Chester Cathedral ' 
 (Chester, 1870). 
 
 " Both works " (the Lady Chapel at Chester and the Tran- 
 septs of Bangor) " must have been built at about the same 
 time : the clays of Edward I. ; that at Chester erected, pro- 
 bably, during the time of the frequent visits of that great 
 king, while engaged on his wars against Llewellyn ; that at 
 Bangor, let us hope, as a kind of ' Chapelle expiatoire,' after 
 the overthrow of that valorous prince, and the appropriation 
 of his principality. Anyhow, he was ever oscillating between 
 Chester and Bangor. He was here (at Chester) either as a 
 prince or a king in 1256 and 1274 ; again, when marching 
 against Wales, in 1276 ; again, for the siege of Rhuddlan, in 
 1278 ; again, in 1281, 1282, and 1283, when, on St. Augus- 
 tine's Day, he, with Queen Eleanor, heard mass in our 
 Church (Chester) on his return from a Welsh campaign ; 
 again, in the following year ; and ten years later, a^ain, to 
 suppress the rising of Prince Madoc ; and in 1300 the Welsh 
 did homage here to the young Prince Edward, the first 
 Prince of Wales who was heir to the English throne. And 
 it is, to say the least, interesting to find at each place what 
 may be called sister works of his period." 
 
 Y 
 
Ancient Floor-tile from the Choir. 
 
BANGOR CATHEDRAL. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 btorg of t|u foitjr Sfjort |]Utim of 
 
 I HE see of Bangor, of which the diocese was co-extensive 
 
 with the principality of Gwynedd, was founded, 
 according to tradition, by Deiniol or Daniel, who died in 
 the year 584. a Daniel is mentioned as Bishop of Bangor 
 by Ricemarch in his ' Life of St. David,' and in the 4 Book 
 of LlandafT,' but nothing certain is known about him ; 
 and although he was recognised as a saint, no life of St. 
 Daniel is known to be in existence, and possibly it was 
 never written. 
 
 The name of the place at which the see was fixed indi- 
 cates that St. Daniel had either found here, or had gathered 
 about him, one of those great companies of coenobites which 
 w^re then not unfrequent in Wales. (See ' St. David's,' 
 Part II.) Ban-chor, the "head" or "chief" choir, was 
 the name by which many of them were known ; and St. 
 Daniel's Bangor has constantly been confounded with 
 Bangor Iscoed, near Chester, the inhabitants of which were 
 massacred by the heathen Ethelfrith of Northumbria be- 
 
 a ' Annales Cambriae ' — " CXL annus. Dispositio Danielis Ban- 
 oorum." He was, it is said, buried, where he probably died, 
 in Bardsey Island. " In ea, ut fertur, infinita sanctorum sepulta 
 sunt corpora; ibique jacere testantur corpus beati Danielis 
 Banchoresis episcopi." Giraldus Camb. 1 Itin. Kambrise/ ii. 6. 
 
 v 2 
 
324 §Sangor da%bral 
 
 fore his attack on Chester in 613. b There was possibly 
 a regular succession of bishops from the time of Daniel 
 onward: but no records of the see of Bangor during its 
 independent Welsh period exist, although Welsh bishops 
 holding it are occasionally mentioned. " Elbodg Archi- 
 episcopus Guendotise " — (Vendotia or Gwynedd : the title of 
 archbishop is of no more value here than where it is 
 assigned to the Bishops of Llandaff or St. David : see the 
 General Introduction to this volume) — occurs in the 
 4 Annales Cambrias 9 between the years 768 and 809 — (he 
 caused the observance of the Roman Easter to be adopted 
 in North Wales) — and others are mentioned in 928 
 (Preface to the 'Laws of Hoel Dda') and in 945 ('Ann. 
 Cambria '). The letter addressed in 1145 by the Chapter 
 of St. David's to Pope Eugenius III., respecting the right 
 of St. David's to the metropolitan dignity, asserts that 
 three Bishops of Bangor — Revedun, Morgleis, and Duvan — 
 had been consecrated by Sulien of St. David's (1071-1088) 
 and Joseph of St. David's, who died in 1064. This may 
 have been the case, although the letter itself is of some- 
 what questionable veracity. 
 
 The continuous history of the see begins only in the 
 year 1092 ; when the Norman King and Church forced 
 into it a certain Herve or Herveas, a Breton, in favour with 
 William Eufus and afterwards confessor to Henry I. 
 Bishop Herve was consecrated by Thomas Archbishop of 
 York, the see of Canterbury being then vacant. He was 
 neither nominated, nor was the election ratified, by the King 
 of G wynedd ; and, so long as he occupied the see, he was 
 in constant warfare with his rude flock, against whom he 
 tried in vain the weapons of excommunication and of the 
 temporal sword ; c at last he fled to England, having 
 
 b The two places are confounded by William of Malmesbury, 
 1 de Gestis Regum/ L. i. c. 47, in his account of the massacre. 
 
 c " Hie cum Episcopatu fungeretur Herveus, gentem efferam 
 nimia austeritate tractabat; videns tantum in moribus eorum 
 
325 
 
 sought, but failed, to be translated to various sees, espe- 
 cially to Lisieux, a.d. 1107. At what time he left Wales 
 does not appear, but at the death of Kichard, Abbot of 
 Ely, in 1107, Bishop Hervewas appointed "administrator" 
 until the election of a new abbot. This, however, never 
 took place. Ely was made the place of a new episcopal 
 see — the diocese attached to it being separated from the 
 then vast diocese of Lincoln ; and, in 1109, Herve became 
 the first Bishop of Ely. He died in 1131. (For the his- 
 tory of the foundation of the new see, refer to 4 Ely Cathe- 
 dral,' Part II.) 
 
 The see of Bangor remained vacant until 
 [ a.d. 1120-1139.] David, a Welshman (Walensem natione, 
 4 Ann. Eccles. Wigorn .'), from the Scottish Abbey of 
 Wurzburg, elected by the Prince of Gwynedd, d was con- 
 secrated at Westminster by Ralph Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury, to which see he made a profession of canonical 
 obedience. 
 
 [a.d. 1140 — 1161.] Meurig or Maurice, "vir eximias 
 religionis," elected by the Welsh (a clero et a populo Ban- 
 gornensis ecclesias), was presented to King Stephen in the 
 castle of Worcester, and, after some persuasion, took the 
 oath of fidelity to him. He was consecrated by the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, to whom he made a profession of 
 
 perversitatem, quain nemo facile posset tolerare. Unde, quod 
 episcopali timori nullam servabant reverentiam, gladium bis 
 acutum ad eos domandos exercuit, nunc crebro anathemate nunc 
 propinquomm et aliorum hominum eos coercens multitudine. 
 Nec minor fuit eorum contra eum rebellio. Tanto periculo ei 
 insistebant, ut fi atrem ejus perimerent, simili modo eum puni- 
 turi si possent in eum manus injicere. Expavit episcopus in- 
 gruens infortunium, plurimisque suorum interfectis aut graviter 
 vulneratis. videns quod anima sua quaireretur, ut congruos ha- 
 beret defensores, ad regis Angliao confugit patrocinium, utile 
 sibi consecutus exilium." Ric. Monac. Hist. Eliensis. 
 
 d " Electum a Principe Griffino, clero et populo Wallise." — 
 4 Contin. Flor. Wigorn.'— See Haddan and Stubbs, i. 314. 
 
326 gattgor Ca%kaL 
 
 obedience. Owen Gwynedd and his brother Cadwallader 
 (the princes buried in Bangor Cathedral, Part I.) pro- 
 tested, but in vain, against this election. 
 
 From the death of Maurice in 1161 the see appears to 
 have remained vacant until 1177. In this interval took 
 place the great struggle between Henry II. and Archbishop 
 Thomas of Canterbury — the latter of whom attempted, 
 but in vain, to impose a Norman bishop on the see of 
 Bangor. The custody of the see during its vacancy was 
 given by the archbishop to David, Archdeacon of Bangor ; 
 but the canons were not allowed a free election, and, 
 apparently with the consent of Owen Prince of Gwynedd, 
 they (and their Archdeacon David) sought to have their 
 own candidate, whose name does not appear, consecrated by 
 an Irish bishop. For this they are severely reprimanded by 
 Archbishop Thomas. It is uncertain whether they actually 
 obtained a bishop thus consecrated, though it is possible. 6 
 It was not until seven years after the death of Thomas of 
 Canterbury that 
 [a.d. 1177 — 1190.] Guianus, or Guy Kufus, was consecrated 
 at Amesbury by Archbishop Richard. It is possible that 
 he is the same as Wido RufTus, Dean of Waltham, who 
 had been one of Henry's ambassadors to the Pope against 
 Becket in 1165, and who resigned his deanery in 1177. 
 It was during his episcopate that Archbishop Baldwin, 
 accompanied by Gerald de Barry (Giraldus Cambrensis), 
 preached the Crusade throughout Wales. They were re- 
 ceived "decenter" by the bishop at Bangor. On the 
 following day the archbishop sang mass at the high altar, 
 as he did in every Welsh cathedral, " tanquam investiturce 
 signum," — and Bishop Guianus or " Gwiawn," as he is 
 called in the ' Brut,' was compelled to take the cross at the 
 great importunity of the archbishop and his followers, and 
 
 e A series of letters and documents relating to this period 
 will be found in Haddan and Stubbs, i. 364-375. 
 
to the despair of his own flock/ At his death the see 
 (which Giraldus asserts was then offered to himself) re- 
 mained vacant, for some unknown reason, until 
 
 [a.d. 1195 — 1196.] Alan was consecrated to it by Archbishop 
 Hubert. His successor was 
 
 [a.d. 1197 — 1213.] Robert of Shrewsbury, against whom 
 a Welsh opposition arose, parallel to the great and almost 
 contemporary strife at St. David's (see that Cathedral, 
 Part II.), which lived on in the form of appeals to the 
 Pope until at least 1203. The claimant, " dicens se legi- 
 timum electum de Bangor, et Robertum ab Archiepiscopo 
 super intrusum " was the Sub-prior of Aberconway, whose 
 appeals were unsuccessful. The see was vacant from 
 1213 till 
 
 [a.d. 1215 — 1236.] Cadogan, Abbot of Blanchland, was con- 
 secrated, and made his profession to Canterbury. In 1236 
 he resigned the see, and was received in the Cistercian 
 monastery of Dor, where he died and was buried. 
 
 [a.d. 1237—1267.] Richard. In 1241, together with the 
 Bishop of St. Asaph, he became guarantee for the submission 
 of David, Prince of North Wales, to Henry III. Bishop 
 Richard suffered greatly from the wars and agitations of 
 that troubled time. In 1248 he took refuge from them in 
 the Abbey of St. Alban's, and remained there until his 
 diocese had somewhat recovered from the waste and rapine 
 to which it had been subjected. g Succeeding years, how- 
 ever, brought him little improvement, and at length, 11 in 
 desolatione positus, et circundatus undique laqueis," he 
 implored permission from the Pope, Clement IV., to resign 
 his see. The letter is curiously passionate, and shows that 
 
 f Giraldus, 'Itin. Kambrise,' ii. 6. The bishop took the cross 
 "cum magna suorum ipsa in ecclesia lamentatione, misera- 
 bilique sub barbara quadam vociferatione utriusque sexus homi- 
 num tarn clamore quam mserore." 
 
 g ''Donee episcopatus ejus, qui per bellum desfructus erat, 
 aliquantulum restauraretur." Matt. Par., p. 645. 
 
328 
 
 the bishop was, in thorough earnest, wearied of his troubles. 
 " Clamo," he writes, 4 4 ejulo, vociferor, et pulso ad fores, 
 patrone, vestras ; ut sacrum illud conjugium, quo me pre- 
 fatse ecclesise tide media copulavi, jam conversum in vin- 
 cula et compedes ergastuli carceralis, solvere dignemini." h 
 He died in the same year (1267) in which this letter was 
 written. 
 
 [a.d. 1267 — 1305.] Anian, his successor, had been Arch- 
 deacon of Anglesea, and was in great favour with Edward I. 
 after his accession in 1272. Little or nothing is known of 
 his personal history. It was in his time that the Norman 
 Cathedral of Bangor was destroyed by fire. Anian set to 
 work to rebuild it, and much of the beautiful Decorated 
 work which has recently been restored to light must be 
 assigned to him. (Part I. §§ 2, 3.) It was Anian who 
 baptised, at Carnarvon, the infant Prince of Wales, born in 
 the castle there — but not in the Eagle Tower, which was 
 not then in existence. His arrangement of the ' Use of 
 Bangor ' has been mentioned in Part I. § 2. 
 
 [a.d. 1307 — 1309.] Griffin ap Yorwerth ; consecrated at 
 Carlisle, " quia commode in provincia Cantuar. non potuit. ; ' 
 
 [a.d. 1309—1328.] Anian " Sais," or the " Saxon," suc- 
 ceeded. In the registers of Canterbury it is recorded that 
 he was buried " in quodam muro " between the choir and 
 the altar, and a tomb lately discovered in this position is 
 probably his. (Part I.) He is, says Browne Willis, 
 " the only bishop whose sepulture in this cathedral is 
 taken notice of by any authors before the Keformation." 
 
 [a.d. 1328 — 1357.] Matthew Englefield. (Godwin, 
 without authority, inserts a certain Lewis between Anian 
 Sais and Matthew.) 
 
 [a.d. 1357 — 1366.] Thomas Eingstead was a very learned 
 Dominican of Oxford. By his will he leaves 1001. " ad 
 reparationem " towards the restoration of his cathedral 
 
 h The letter will be found in Haddan and Stubbs, i. 496. 
 
§xz§o$$ (fettbnz to §moba. 
 
 329 
 
 church — indicating apparently that the work begun by- 
 Bishop Anian was not as yet entirely completed. 
 
 [a.d. 1366 — 1370.] Gervas de Castro, intruded by Pope 
 Urban, was consecrated at Avignon. He was, like his pre- 
 decessor, a Dominican. 
 
 [a.d. 1371—1372.] Howel ap Grono. 
 
 [a.d. 1372 — trans, to Hereford 1375.] John Gilbert. From 
 Hereford he passed to St. David's in 1389, and died in 
 1397. 
 
 [a.d. 1376 — 1398.] John Swaffham was translated from 
 Cloyne. He was a Carmelite of Lynn. In 1387 he ob- 
 tained a grant of the sinecures of Llanynys and Llanvair 
 towards the repair of his cathedral and maintenance of four 
 chaplains to officiate in the choir. 
 
 [a.d. 1400— trans, to Rochester 1404.] Richard Young: 
 was sent in 1401 into Germany by King Henry IV. to 
 account for the dethronement of Richard II. It seems, 
 says Browne Willis, that " he made a pretty long stay," 
 and the temporalities were taken into the hands of the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury (February 26, 1403), " ob 
 negligentiam episcopi in remotis agentis." Either before 
 his German embassy or after his return, he was imprisoned 
 for some time by the Welsh, who had risen against 
 Henry IV. It was in the year of Bishop Young's transla- 
 tion to Rochester that the cathedral of Anian was burnt 
 by Owen Glendower. (Part I.) 
 
 Lewis Bifort, who succeeded, was never recognised by 
 the English king or archbishop. He was appointed by 
 the interest of Owen Glendower, and was translated by the 
 Pope to another see in 1408 ; but he appeared as u Ludo- 
 vicus Bangorensis " at the Council of Constance. The next 
 recognised bishop was 
 
 [a.d. 1408 — trans, to St. David's 1418.] Benedict Nicolls 
 rector of Staplebridge, in the diocese of Salisbury. 
 
 [a.d. 1418 — trans, to Carlisle 1423.] William Barrow, 
 Canon of Lincoln. 
 
330 § m ox Calami. 
 
 [a.d. 1425 — 1434]. John Clideron. 
 
 [a.d. 1436 — 1447.] Thomas Cheriton. 
 
 [a.d. 1448 — trans, to Hereford 1453 ; died 1474.] John 
 Stanbery ; a Carmelite of Oxford, reputed the most 
 learned man of his Order. He was born at Stanbery, in 
 Morwenstow, on the border of Devon and Cornwall ; and 
 in his will he bequeaths a silver crucifix, gilt, to the church 
 of Morwenstow, where he was baptised ; and 301. to the 
 Cathedral of Bangor to be expended " ad ejus tantummodo 
 edificationem." The fabric still lay in the ruin to which it 
 had been reduced by Owen Glendower. 
 
 [a.d. 1453 — 1464.] James Blakedon was translated from 
 Achonry. 
 
 It will be remarked that throughout this period, and, 
 indeed, with little change to the end, the see of Bangor was 
 held by men of little note or distinction ; and the few ex- 
 ceptions were speedily translated elsewhere. The see was 
 nearly as poor as St. Asaph, and was placed more com- 
 pletely in the midst of the " Wild Welsh." 
 
 [a.d. 1465 — 1496.] Kichard Edenham. 
 
 a.d. 1496 — trans, to Salisbury 1500 ; thence to Canterbury in 
 1501 ; died 1503.] Henry Deane, Abbot of Llanthony, 
 which he held in commendam with Bangor until his trans- 
 lation. He built much at Llanthony, where the gatehouse 
 retains his shield of arms ; and was a great benefactor to 
 Bangor, which he raised from its ruins. (Part I.) He 
 rebuilt the choir, and, on his translation to Salisbury, left 
 to his successor at Bangor a crozier and mitre of great value, 
 on condition that he would finish what Bishop Deane had 
 begun. He recovered also "divers parcels of land" for 
 the see ; particularly the Island of Seals (Ynys y Moel- 
 rhoniaid), between Holyhead and Anglesea. 
 
 [a.d. 1500 — 1504.] Thomas Pigott, Abbot of Chertsey, 
 which he held in commendam. 
 
 [a.d. 1505 — trans, to Carlisle 1509.] John Penny, Abbot of 
 Leicester, which he held in commendam. He was buried 
 
§h§Q$B SMrfrmgimr to §nlkth%. 
 
 331 
 
 in St. Margaret's Church, Leicester, where his monument 
 remains. 
 
 [a.d. 1509 — 1533.] Thomas Skirvington, or Skeffington, 
 called also Pace ; born at Skirvington, in Leicestershire ; 
 made his profession as a Cistercian monk at Merival, in 
 Warwickshire, and passed for his education to St. Ber- 
 nard's, the Cistercian house in Oxford, now part of St. 
 John's College. He became Abbot successively of Waver- 
 ley and of Beaulieu, and held the latter in commendam 
 with the Bishopric of Bangor. He lived almost entirely 
 at Beaulieu, as Bishop Pigott had done at Chertsey ; 
 but was a great benefactor to Bangor, where he built 
 the tower and nave of the cathedral (Part L). He 
 seems also to have done something for his native place 
 of Skirvington, where his arms (arg. a chevron sable be- 
 tween three gillyflowers proper) remain in one of the church 
 windows, with the inscription, " Orate pro Thoma Pace, 
 Episcopo Bangor." He ordered by his will that his body 
 should be buried in the choir at Beaulieu and his heart in 
 his own cathedral, before the image of St. Daniel. 
 
 [a.d. 1534 — trans, to Salisbury 1539 ; died 1557.] John 
 Salcot or Capon, Abbot of Hyde. 
 
 [a.d. 1539 — trans, to Chester 1541.] John Bird; had been 
 suffragan Bishop of Penrith. 
 
 [a.d. 1542 — 1553.] Arthur Bulkeley. According to God- 
 win and to Fuller, he was born in Anglesea ; " but it 
 matters not much had he never been born, who, being 
 bred Doctor of the Laws, had either never read, or wholly 
 forgotten, or wilfully would not remember, the chapter 
 6 de sacrilegio for he spoyled the bishoprick and sold the 
 five bells ; being so over-officious that he would go down 
 to the sea to see them shipped: which in my mind 
 amounted to a second selling of them .... he was him- 
 self suddenly deprived of his sight, who had deprived the 
 tower of Bangor of the tongue thereof." 1 Godwin asserts 
 
 1 Fuller, * Worthies, Wales/ 
 
332 
 
 ganger (Ka%haL 
 
 that he was suddenly stricken blind as he turned away 
 from the shore. k He certainly sold sundry of the church 
 ornaments — mitres, copes, and chalices, and possibly some 
 of the bells — since by his will he admits that he had in 
 his keeping a sum of money " of the church goods ;' and 
 by the advice of Dr. Glynn and others of the canons " he 
 did fully bestow that sum, and much more, in the repairs 
 of his cathedral." He seems to have deserved a good, 
 rather than a bad character ; and he was certainly the first 
 bishop who had been resident for more than a century. 
 He was unfortunate in the times through which he lived : 
 and he succeeded to a poor bishopric, without the power of 
 holding in commendam such an abbey as had been enjoyed 
 by many of his predecessors. The poverty of the see is 
 sufficiently shown by these continued holdings, and by the 
 non-residence of the bishops. 
 
 [a.d. 1555 — 1558.] William Glynne, President of Queen's 
 College, Cambridge. 
 
 [a.d. 1559 — 1566.] Rowland Meyrick. " I have nothing 
 to add of him," says Fuller, " save that he was father to 
 Sir Gilly Meyrick, Knight, who lost his life for engaging 
 with the Earl of Essex, 1600." 
 
 [a.d. 1566 — 1585.] Nicolas Robinson. 
 
 [a.d. 1586 — trans, to Chester 1595.] Hugh Bellott. 
 
 [a.d. 1596 — trans, to Chester 1597 ; thence to London 1604 ; 
 died 1607.] Richard Yaughan. 
 
 [a.d. 1598 — 1616.] Henry Rowlands. He bought new 
 bells for Bishop Skirvington's tower, and founded two 
 Fellowships at Jesus College, Oxford. 
 
 [a.d. 1616 — 1631.] Lewis Bayley : Fellow of Jesus College, 
 Oxford; Chaplain to Henry Prince of Wales; and Trea- 
 surer of St. Paul's, London. 
 
 [a,d. 1632—1633.] David Dolben. 
 
 [a.d. 1634 — 1637.] Edmund Griffith, Dean of Bangor. 
 
 k 4 De Prsesul. Anglise.' 
 
§is{jop Roberts to fjerrmg. 
 
 333 
 
 [a.d. 1637 — 1665.] William Eoberts, Sub-dean of Wells. 
 He suffered much during the Civil War, but lived through 
 it, was restored, and revived the services of his cathedral. 
 By his will he bequeathed 100Z. toward " beautifying " the 
 choir. 
 
 [a.d. 1666 — 1673.] Robert Morgan, Archdeacon of 
 Merioneth. 
 
 [a.d. 1673-— 1689.] Humfrey Lloyd, Dean of St. Asaph. 
 He procured an Act of Parliament by which the revenues 
 of the Archdeaconry of Bangor and the sinecure Rectory of 
 Llanrhaider were annexed to the see. 
 
 [a.d. 1689 — trans, to Hereford 1701 ; died 1712.] Humphrey 
 Humphries, Dean of Bangor. 
 
 [a.d. 1702 — trans, to Meath 1715.] John Evans. 
 
 [a.d. 1716 — trans, to Hereford 1721 ; thence to Salisbury 
 1723; thence to Winchester 1734 ; died 1761.] Benjamin 
 Hoadley. Hoadley never visited Bangor (it is said from 
 an apprehension of party fury) ; but it was while holding 
 this see that he preached (1717) his famous sermon on the 
 text, " My kingdom is not of this world," for which he 
 was condemned by Convocation, and which gave rise to 
 the war of pens known as the " Bangorian Controversy." 
 (See ' Winchester Cathedral,' Part II.) 
 
 [a.d. 1721 — trans, to Lincoln 1723.] Richard Reynolds, 
 Dean of Peterborough. 
 
 [a.d. 1723 — trans, to Norwich 1727.] William Baker. 
 
 [a.d. 1728 — trans, to Salisbury 1734; thence to London, 
 1748; died 1761.] Thomas Sherlock. (See 4 Salisbury 
 Cathedral,' Part II.) Bishop Sherlock's sermons have been 
 often reprinted. 
 
 [a.d. 1734—1737.] Charles Cecil, translated from Bristol. 
 
 [a.d. 1738— trans, to York 1743 ; thence to Canterbury, 1747 ; 
 died 1757.] Thomas Herring. (See 4 York Cathedral,' 
 Part II.) 
 
 [a.d. 1743— trans, to York 1747 ; thence to Canterbury, 
 
334 
 
 §artgor (Ka%bral. 
 
 1757; died 1758.] Matthew Hutton followed the ad- 
 vance of his predecessor. 
 
 [a.d. 1748 — trans, to Rochester 1756.] Zachery Pearce. 
 
 [a.d. 1756 — trans, to Lichfield 1768 ; thence to Durham 
 1771 ; died 1787.] John Egerton. 
 
 [a.d. 1769 — 1774.] John Ewer was translated from Llandaff. 
 
 [a.d. 177^ — trans, to Canterbury 1783 ; died 1805.] John 
 Moore. 
 
 [a.d. 1783 — 1800.] John Warren; translated from St. 
 David's. 
 
 [a.d. 1800 — trans, to St. Asaph 1806.] William Cleaver ; 
 translated from Chester. 
 
 [a.d. 1807 — trans, to London 1809.] John Randolph ; trans- 
 lated from Oxford. 
 
 [a.d. 1809 — 1830.] Henry William Majendie ; translated 
 from Chester. 
 
 [a.d. 1830 — 1859.] Christopher Bethell ; translated from 
 Exeter. 
 
 [a.d. 1859 — .] James Colquhoun Campbell. 
 
 LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFOKD STKEKl 
 AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
 Ancient Floor-tile from the Choir. 
 
GETTY CENTER LIBRARY 
 
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