Til* ORlOli^^j^ WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE PUBLISHED A^^> SOLD FOR BEHOOF OF THE EAMIIY Ol" THE LATE JOHN" PETRIE. - Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/originalhistoricOOmack ORIGINAL HISTORICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE AND PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE. BY CHARLES MACKIE, AUTHOR or THE HISTORY OF " QUEEN MARY's CASTLES," " ROSLIN," " LINLITHGOW," " THE KING'S VISIT," &C. &C ENLARGED AND IMPROVED. See yonder hallow'd fane ! the pious work Of names once fam'd, now dubious or forgot, Or buried midst the wreck of things which were." Blair's Grave. EDINBURGH : JOHN ANDERSON JUN. 55. NORTH BRIDGE; A. HILL, 50. PRINCE'S STREET, EDINBURGH ; JOHN LESLIE, 1. LITTLE QUEEN STREET, LONDON. 1832. TO WILLIAM IV. KING OF GREAT BRITAIN, THIS WORK IS, WITH HIS MAJESTY^S MOST GRACIOUS PERMISSION, HUMBLY AND GRATEFULLY DEDICATED, BY HIS MAJESTy'^S MOST DEVOTED SUBJECT AND SERVANT, CHARLES MACKIE. Brighton, January 20. 1831. SIR, Lord Melbourne having submitted your letter of the 6th instant, and accompanying copy of the History of Holyrood, &c. to the King, I have been honoured with his Majesty''s commands, to communicate to you his Majesty's acquiescence in the wish expressed on the part of the late Mr Petrie's family, that the Work should be dedicated to his Majesty, I have the honour to be, SIR, Your most obedient Servant, (Signed) H. TAYLOR. Charles Mackie, Esq. 7. Roxburgh Terrace^ Edinburgh. ADVERTISEMENT, The Author of this Work, in presenting a/^ Ninth Edition of the Original Historical Description of the Monastery^ Chapel Royal^ and Palace of Holyrood^ to the world, has to acknowledge his gratitude on behalf of those for whose behoof it is published, for the high patronage with which it has been favoured, notwithstanding a late most ungenerous attempt to pirate a portion of this Work, and thereby deprive a fatherless family of their only patri- mony. The present Volume contains much additional infor- mation regarding those interesting structures, as well as the transactions of which they have been the scenes ; and he dismisses this Work from his hands, in the humble hope that his gratuitous labours will not only prove satisfactory to the public, but beneficial to the family above alluded to. CHARLES MACKIE. Edinburgh, 1^^ Nov. 1831. H. & J. PILLANS, PRINTERS, 7. James's court. CONTENTS. Page Introduction, . . . ... History of the Monastery and Chapel Royal, . . 13 General Description of the Abbey, . . • .37 List of Churches and Religious Houses which were dependent on it, . . . . . .53 List of Abbots, 54 Monuments and Inscriptions, ..... 62 Royal Vault, 79 List of Nobility and Gentry buried without Monuments since 1706, 90 Historical Account of the Palace of Holyrood, . 95 Queen Mary's arrival at Holyrood, » ... 98 Rizzio's Murder^ . . . . . . .100 Chevalier Charles resides here, in 1 745, . . 1 04 King George IV. arrives at Holyrood, . . ,107 General Description of the Palace, . . . .111 Queen Mary's Apartments, Furniture, Pictures, &c. . 114 Duke of Hamilton's, . . . . . .118 Picture Gallery, . . . . . . .120 Earl of Breadalbane's Apartments, Pictures, &c. . 1 22 Lord Dunmore's Lodgings, ..... 125 Ancient Residence of the Lord Keeper, . . - 126 Curious discovery about the windows of Queen Mary's Apartments, 127 King's Gardens, with Horologe, Sec. . . .127 Environs of the Palace, Sec- . . . . .129 Arthur's Seat, St Anthony's Chapel and Hermitage, . 133 Mineralogical Remarks on Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags, . . . . . . . .136 Privileges of the Sanctuary, . . . . .140 List of the King's Household, so far as connected with the Abbey and Palace, . . . . .145 INTRODUCTION. Prior to the middle of the sixteenth century, the Monastic Establishments of Europe were for ages the chief, if not the onlj, repositories of knowledge. In them many sciences were studied. From the industry and ingenuity of their inmates, not a few of these arts were derived which are now considered indispensable for the convenience and ornament of civil life. It is to the inhabitants of the cloister that we are also indebted for the cultivation of that ele- gant ecclesiastical architecture, of which the numer- ous specimens still remaining in this country, call forth the admiration of the curious, and stimulate the exertions of the artist. It is to be regretted, that in consequence of the superstitious purposes to which these Institutions were more immediately subservient, our reforming ancestors, especially in this northern part of Britain, began early to ransack and destroy indiscriminately, all the splendid monuments of architectural genius, which afforded either shelter to the devotees of su- perstition, or were the theatres in which the rites of their cer em onious worship were performed. Impress- ed with the idea that the Popish service ought to be forcibly extirpated from the land, and too easily in- fluenced by the injudicious zeal of their own perse- X INTRODUCTION. cuted teachers, the uniform endeavour of the Re- formers was, to prevent the return of abettors of Popery by the immediate destruction of their churches and monastic dwellings. Thus, with ruthless hand, did the followers of the pious Knox, in their fierce endeavours to secure the meansof moral improvement, needlessly deprive their coun- try of many splendid monuments of scientific skill, and themselves ultimately, of elegant and commo- dious places for public worship. The destruction of those buildings unfortunately was not the only evil, — numerous records and valuable manuscripts suffered in the indiscriminate destruction. Many of these documents, indeed, have escaped the flames, but only enough to excite the deepest regret, that so much and imcalled-for havock was suffered to be committed among the records of our national his- tory and arts, at that time placed for the greater se- curity within the sacred walls of the monasteries and churches. In consequence of this conduct, a dark shade has been thrown over the more early periods both of our civil and religious history, which all the skill and learning of posterity will be unable fully to remove. Another effect of this rashness has been, to subject the memory of the unfortunate inmates of the cloisters to every species of reproach, and that after those documents were destroyed, which would have borne no inconsiderable testimony to the in- dustry and piety (though perhaps ill directed) of many of their number. The investigations, how- ever, which have been made of late years into the remaining documents of the history of the religious INTRODUCTION. xi establishments of Britain, have produced several im- portant and interesting results : They have elucida- ted the architecture of the ecclesiastical fabrics ; and by demonstrating its scientific principles, removed the unmerited stigma with which the revivers of the Greek and Roman architecture endeavoured unfairly to load the circular and pointed styles of our forefathers. They have also refuted, to a considerable extent, the hasty opinion, which many prejudiced persons have fondly cherished, that convents were only the abodes of ignorance, indolence, and crimes. Many splendid examples of industrious and praise- worthy investigation of the Ecclesiastical and Archi- tectural Antiquities of England are before the pub- lic, which astonish the readers with the magnitude of the undertaking.^ Much still remains to be ac- complished. A large and but partially travelled field lies before our Scottish Antiquaries, who remain con- siderably behind our southern neighbours. They have within these few years commenced the task ; — the subjects of investigation have fully met their wishes, both as regard their interest and intrinsic worth ; and we hope ere long to be furnished with more circumstantial details, and elegant illustrations of many of our once rich and magnificent Scottish Monasteries and Cathedrals. * See Dugdale's Preface to Leland's Collectanea ; Britton's Architectu- ral Antiquities of Great Britain, 4to ; Brewster's Encyclopedia, Art. Civil Architecture, § anent Gothic Archit. ; Milner's Ecclesiastical Architecture of England, 8vo ; Essays on Gothic Architecture, by Wharton and others, 8vo; Whittington's Historical Survey of the Ecclesiastical Antiquities of France, 4to ; Dallaway's Observations on English Architecture. xii INTRODUCTION. In this state of things, a proper account of Holy- rood Abbey and Palace has been long considered a desideratum. Little more has been done hitherto than the introduction of a few general and loose statements, into the various topographical accounts of the city and county of Edinburgh. To remedy this defect, and in some degree, to meet the wishes of the inquisitive tourist and visitant y is the object of the following pages, which the Author humbly hopes will prove (at least in the more material cir- cumstances of detail) both full and correct. They comprise an account of the early and subsequent his- tory of the Abbey " Sanctce Crucis^^ with a des- cription of the ruins of the Abbey-Church, after- wards the Chapel Royal of Holyroodhouse, — Lists of Religious Houses dependent upon the Abbey, and of the Abbots, — Monumental Inscriptions, &c. interspersed with Biographical Anecdotes of Illus- trious Characters, — a History and Description of the Palace, accompanied with an Account of the Environs, which include a Sanctuary for insolvent debtors, — the only one in the united kingdom, — a List of the names of the present official persons belonging to his Majesty's Household for Scotland, in so far as they are connected with the Chapel Royal and Palace. A correct Plan of the Sanc- tuary, including the Abbey and Palace, with seve- ral Views of the Chapel, are also given. EdjnbuugM; Nov. \, 1831. HISTORICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE MONASTERY, AFTERWARDS THE CHAPEL ROYAL OF HOLYROOD, The monastery of Sanctce Crucis, or Holyrood^ was founded by David I. of Scotland, A. D. 1128, and, like most other religious establishments of the dark ages, origi- nated in superstition. The account generally given is, that it was established by that Monarch, to perpetuate the me- mory of a miraculous interposition of Heaven, said to have been manifested in his favour. This event is narrated by the historians of those times, with all their usual enthu- siasm. The King, while hunting in the forest of Drumselch, one of the royal forests*, which surrounded the rocks and • In the public archives, frequent grants are to be met with of large parcels of timber, granted to the inhabitants of Edinburgh for building and repairing houses, and for clearing away the ancient royal forests surrounding Arthur Seat, the Burrowmuir," &c. &c. Vide also Rohan's Hist, Edinh 1.5S0, and Maitland's HisL Edin. 1753. 14 hills to the east of the city of Edinburgh, on Rood-day, or exaltation of the cross, was attacked by a stag, and would, in all probability, have fallen a sacrifice to the enraged ani- mal, which overbore both him and his horse, (as his at- tendants were left at a considerable distance behind,) when lo ! an arm, wreathed in a dark cloud, and displaying a cross of the most dazzling brilliancy, was interposed be- tween them, and the affrighted animal fled to the recesses of the forest in the greatest confusion. This having put an end to the chase, the Monarch repaired to the Castle of Edinburgh ; where, during the night, in a dream, he was advised, as an act of gratitude for his deliverance, to erect an Abbey, or house for Canons regular, upon the spot where this miraculous interposition had taken place.*^' In obedience to this visionary command, the King endow- ed this monastery for Canons regular of the Augustine order, a colony of whom he brought from an abbey of the same kind at St Andrew's*, and dedicated his new esta- * All our churches formerly belonged either to regulars or seculars. The regulars followed the rule of St Augustine, Bishop of Hippo, in Africa, St Bennet, or some private statutes approved by the Pope ; and lived, slept, and took their diet together under the same roof. They were either canons^ monks, or friars ; and their houses were called abbacies^ priories, or convents. The seculars had their private rules, composed by their chapters, or borrowed from other colleges abroad ; which statutes were not commonly approved of by Rome. They lived separately in their cloisters, or in pri- vate houses near to their churches ; and were governed by a Dean [ De- canus'] or Provost [Prcepositus.'\ Of this kind, were St Giles's church, Edinburgh, the Trinity College church there, and about 30 others. The canons regular of St Augustine were first brought to Scotland by Atelwolphus, Prior of St Oswald, of Nottal in Yorkshire, and afterwards Bishop of Carlisle, who established them at Scone, in the year 1114, at the desire of King Alexander I. They had 28 monasteries in Scotland, of which were St Andrew's and Holyroodhouse Abbeys. Spottiswoode's Religious Houses of Scotland^ annexed to his Edition of Hope's Minor Practiques^ Edin. 1734, and Keith's Catalogue of Scotch Bishops, Edin, 1755. 15 blishment to the honour of the said Cross The celestial relick having been left in his possession, was enshrined in silver, and placed with great pomp and ceremony upon the high altar, where it remained for ages, a source of riches and comfort to its numerous devotees, till the fatal battle of Durham, A. D. 1346, when its virtues appear to have de- serted its possessors, as it there fell into the hands of the English, and was long preserved by them with zealous ve- neration in the cathedral church of Durham. The texture of this celestial cross is said to have been of such mysterious composition, that none could discover of what materials it was composed ; and in the lapse of ages it has hitherto eluded the search of the antiquarian. To render the references in the accompanying descrip- tion more intelligible, the following translation of the char- ter of foundation from the original, which is beautifully written upon vellum in the public archives of the city of Edinburgh, may be of some importance : — " In the name of our Lord Jesus Christ, and in honour of the Holy Cross, the Blessed Virgin Mary, and all the saints, I, David, by the grace of God, King of Scots, by royal authority, and consent of Henry my son, and the Bishops of my kingdom, confirmed by my Earls and Barons, attested by the clergy, and by divine instinct approved by the people, do grant, and perpetually confirm to the church of the Holy Cross at Edinburgh, the several things here- after mentioned: — That is to say, I grant to the said church, and to the Canons regularly sei'ving God therein, in free and perpetual alms, the Church of the Castle, [of Edinburgh,] with appurtenances and rights thereof ; trial by duel, water, and Jire ordeal, so far as appertains to the ecclesiastical dignity ; with the town of Selectuna [or * Boeth. Hist. lib. ii. 16 Saughton] and its several divisions ; and the church and parish of St Cuthbert's, with all things thereunto belong- ing; with the church, town, and its divisions, and the ground whereon the church is situate ; together with all the lands lying under the Castle; viz. from the Well* which riseth or springeth near the corner of my garden, by the way which leads to the church of St Cuthberfs, and, on the other hand, along the foot of the Castlehill, to a rock at the east side of the Castlehill, with two chapels belonging to the said church of St Cuthbert's, viz. Corstor- fin [Corstorphin^] with two bovatesf and six acres of land, and the chapel of Libberton, with two ooogangsX ; together with all the rights and tithes, as well of the dead as of the living in Legbernard, which Macbetver [^Macbeth'] gave to the said church, and I have confirmed. Also the church of Hereth, \^Airth in Stirlingshire^'] with the lands thereunto belonging ; together with the several lands by me thereunto annexed, as surveyed by my officers and others, I have given to Alwinus the abbot, with a saltpan and 26 acres of land, in the said town of Hereth : Which church and lands I will, that the said Canons of the Holy Cross freely hold and quietly possess for ever. And I hereby strictly enjoin, that no person presume to molest or disturb any of the said canons, their vassals, or servants, residing on the said lands ; or that any work, auxiliary or secular customs, be unjustly exacted from them. " I likewise grant to the said Canons liberty to erect a • The weH under the Well-house Tower, vulgarly called Wallace's Tower, situated at the foot of the perpendicular crag on the north side of the Castle, where there is still a constant spring of pure water, even in the driest season. f Bovate of land is commonly taken at 15 acres, or as much as an ox can plough in a year. X Oxgang, the same as bovate. 17 mill upon the said lands, and to have and enjoy in Hereth all the following rights, customs and conveniences ; viz. in rivers, fishings, meadows, and pastures, and to enjoy all things necessary, in as full and ample a manner as when they were in my own possession ; together with the town of Broctunam \^Broughton^^ and its respective divisions ; the lands of Inverlet \^Inverleith^'\ in the neighbourhood of the harbour, with the said harbour ; half of the fishings and tithes of the several fisheries belonging to the church of St Cuthberfs, the towns of Petendreiam [^Pittendrich^'\ Hamere [^Hamar^^ and Fordam, with their several divi- sions ; and the hospital, with a carucate * or plough of land, and a perpetual annuity of 40 shillings, out of my town of Edwinesburg [Edinburgh.] And for supplying the said Canons with apparel, I give to them 100 shillings, payable out of my cainf at Pert [Perth^] and from the duties that arise to me out of the first merchant ships that arrive at Pert [Pe7*th ;] and if none shall happen to arrive, I then give to the said church, out of my revenue in Ed- winesburg [Edinburgh^] the sum of 48 shillings; out of Streveline [Stirling^'] 20 shillings, with a house, and one draught of a fishing-net at the said place ; and 40 shillings out of Pert [Perth^] with a house in my town of Edwines- burg [Edinburgh^] free of all duties and customs whatso- ever; together with a house in the town of Berewick [Berwick^] a draught of two nets in Scypwell [Spytwell^~\ a house in Remfry [Renfrew^] five particates;}:, and one draught of a net for salmon, with a right to fish for herrings. * Carucate, or Carucata terrce^ as much land as a plough could till in one year, reckoned in England at 100 acres. Skene de Sig. Verho. Kain, the duty paid to the Superior, or Lord of the Manor, by the tenants ; but more especially, as in this place, certain petty tithes paid to the clergy, for lands held of the church. Ibid. X Particate, or Particatce terrcB^ is a rood, or the fourth part of an acre of land. Ibid. 18 And I strictly command, that no person whatsoever pre- sume to take of any of the said Canons, their vassals or servants, any toll or duty whatever. " I also give to the said Canons, out of my camero [Ew^ chequer^'\ a perpetual annuity of 10 pounds, for lighting and repairing their church. And I command my respective officers and forresters, in the counties of Streveline [Stir- ling^^ and Clackmannant [Clackmannan^'] that they per- mit the said abbot and canons to take out of my several woods Riid forests as much wood as they shall have occasion for, towards building their church, houses, and other neces- sary constructions. I likewise order and direct, that the vassals and servants of the said canons shall have liberty to take out of my said woods or forests whatever wood they may have occasion for, without molestation. And I also grant, that the swine belonging to the Masters or Canons of the said church be free from pannage *. " I also give and grant to the said Canons one half of the tallow^ lard^ and hides^ of the beasts killed in Ed- winesburg [Edinburgh^] with the tithes of whales and sea-monsters, due to me from the river Avin [Avon,] to Colbrandespaide [Colbrandspath,] with the tithes of all my pleas and profits from the said Avin to the said Colbrandes- paide, and the half of my pleas and profits of Kentyr [Kin^ tyre,] and Errogeil [Argyle;] with the skins of all the rams, sheep, and lambs, belonging to my castle of Linlitcu [Linlithgow,] which die naturally, and 8 chalders of malt, 8 of meal, 30 cart-loads of brushwood from Libbertune [Libberton ;] one of my mills of Dene, [Dean,] with the tenths of my mills of Libbertune and Dene, and those of my new mill at Edwinesburg [Edinburgh,] and Cragfen- mar [Craigendsmark,] as far as they appertain to me ; with * Pannage, duty on swine that fed in the king*s wood upon beech nuts, mast, &c. 19 all that belonged to Vineth White on the said rock, to be held in free and pei-petual alms. " I likewise grant to the said Canons the town of Her- bergare % lying betwixt the said church and my town of [Edinburgh^] and that the burgesses thereof have the liberty of buying and selling goods and merchandise in open market, as freely and without molestation and reproach as any of my own burgesses. And I strictly enjoin, that no person presume to take by force any bread, ale, or other vendible commodity, without the consent of the said bur- gesses. " I also grant, that the said Canons be free from all tolls and customs in my several burghs and lands, in all things they deal in. And I strictly forbid all persons from taking a poind, or making a seizure in or upon the lands of the said Holy Cross, unless the Abbot refuse to do justice to the person injured. I will, likewise, that the said Ca- nons hold the aforesaid things as fully as I enjoy my lands. And I grant, that the said Abbot shall have his court in as full, free, and honourable a manner as the Bishop of St Andrew^s, Abbot of Dunfermline, and Abbot of Kelcu [Kelso^] enjoy theirs. " Attested by these witnesses. Robert, Bishop of St Andrew's. John, Bishop of Glasgow. Henry, my son. William, my nephew. Edward, the Chancellor. Her- bert, the Treasurer. Gillemichell, Comite. Gospatrick, brother of Delphin. Robert Montague. Robert de Bui-ne- ville. Peter de Bruce. Norman, the Sheriff. Ogu, Leising. Gillise. William de Graham. Turstan de Creictune Blemo, the Archdeacon. Alfric, the Chaplain, and Walleran, the Chaplain.'^ Besides the provisions and privileges contained in the • Herbergare, where the Canongate is now, so called from the houjses of the CanonSj and the Street where they were situated. 20 preceding charter of David I, this Abbey was liberally en- dowed by other persons fi-om time to time, until it rose at length to such a pitch of opulence, as to excite the admira- tion and envy of its several depredators. The patronages of several churches in different parts of the kingdom were vested in the Canons ; and the following extensive ecclesiastical foundations, with their revenues, be- longed to them at the dissolution of the Abbey ; viz. The cells or priories of St Mary'^s Isle, in Galloway, granted to them by Fergus, Lord of Galloway, who afterwards became a monk in the Abbey ; — Blantyre, in Clydesdale ; — Rowa- dil, in the Isle of Herries, granted to them by M'Leod of Herries; — Crusay, Oronsay, and Colonsay, all in the Western Isles of Scotland. The chiu-ch of Melgyinch ^, granted to them by Matthew, Abbot of Dunkeld, A. D. 1289. The church of Dalgarnock -j*, granted to them by John, Bishop of Glasgow, A. D. 1322. The church and vicarage of Kirkcudbright J, by Henry, Bishop of Gallo- way, A. D. 1334, &c. The Canons of Holyrood possessed also extensive legal, as well as civil and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. To them belonged the right, as already seen, of trial or ordeal, both by duel^Jire, and water ||, as also the finding out of " noted • Cart. Dunk. f Cart. Glas. % Macfarlane, MS. II Trial by duel was an appeal to Heaven by means of the sword. The person injured had a right to enter the lists with his accuser, and to choose the length of the weapons ; as also to take the sunward and wind- ward side of his antagonist. The victor was in general declared innocent, whether actually so or not. — Shutt's Royal and Ecclesiastical Antiquities, Sir David Lindsay of the Mount, Lion King at arms, an ancient Tourna^ ment MS. Ad. Lib. iv. 1. 3. The order of the combat, with the process, as frequently practised in the Royal court and park of Holyroodhouse, in ancient times, was as fol- lows " The accused, strongly denying the fact alleged against him, threw down gauntlet or <7«ye, calling the accuser a /mr, and thereby chal» ^1 witches and warlocks the composing all manner of litiga- tion and controversy ; and the precincts of their altars were literally a city of refuge to the trembling culprit who fled thither from the vengeance of his merciless pursuers. To enter this sarictum sanctorum in a forcible manner, was deemed more reprehensible than the deed, in revenge of which the sanctuary had been violated, murder alone ex- cepted. In the year 1177? ^ national council was held in the Abbey of Holyrood, in consequence of the arrival of a le- gate sent by the Pope to take cognizance of a dispute be- tween the English and Scots Clergy, as to the submission of the latter to the Church of England, in terms of a stipu- lation to that effect by William of Scotland's treaty, be- tween him and Henry I. of England, for delivering up certain forts to him. The legate having been admitted, however, into Scotland, only upon his compliance with cer- lenging him to combat ; then the other took up the gage, declaring his will- ingness to fight, and to prove by battle the truth of his assertion. The gages were then sealed up and delivered to the Marshal, and leave to combat de- manded of the King. Which, if he granted, a day and place were then appointed ; by which time a scaffold was erected for the King and his at« tendants, and the lists were railed round." — Strutt's Horda Angel Cynn^ Vol. 11. p. 165. Trial by fire, was to cause the accused to walk bare-footed and blind- folded over nine glowing ploughshares. Sometimes carrying a red-hot ball of one pound, denominated simple ordeal ; of two pounds, double or- deal ; of three pounds, triple ordeal, &c. ; in which cases, if no harm en- sued, the parties were declared innocent. Jacob's Law Dictionary^ Art. Trial. Trial by water, was to bind the accused hand and foot, and throw him into a pool of water ; if he swam on the surface, he was adjudged inno- cent, but if otherwise, he was abandoned to his fate, and suffered accord- ingly. — Forfactus Goth, Ant* &c. The fire ordeal was intended for the higher classes of the community, and the water ordeal for the plebeians or baser sort. The ordeal of cold water was used till a very late period in the detection of witchcraft. ^2 tain demands made by William, the result of this and a subsequent interference of Pope Alexander III. respecting the double election of John Scot, and Hugo, to the see of St Andrew's, (the former of whom he had commanded Matthew, Bishop of Aberdeen, to consecrate Bishop of St Andrew's in this Abbey, contrary to the will of the King,) afford only an additional proof how little the Church of Scotland then was under Papal influence. For William was excommunicated, and the kingdom interdicted, without any bad effect resulting to either *. Shortly after its original foundation, Fergus, the first Lord of Galloway, one of its noblest and earliest benefac- tors, sought an asylum here, from the cares and troubles of a turbulent period, and paid the great debt of nature within its hallowed walls, A. D. 1161. His remains were interred near to the high altar, with all the pomp and splendour of monastic solemnity. John, Bishop of Candida Casa^ or Whithorn, in Galloway, closed a long life of religious la- bour and devotion at its holy altars, A. D. 1206 ; as did also the famous John Due de Lancaster in 1381. This Abbey was frequently exposed to the rage of con- quest, and the fury of savage depredators. In August 1332, when the army of Edward III. was about to retire into England, the soldiers, inspired by a principle of zealous devastation, laid waste the precincts of this sacred asylum, despoiling the shrines, and carrying off the vessels of gold and silver used in the solemnities of their appointed festivals. Not content with this sacrilegious plunder, they committed every outrage upon the trembling and unoffending inmates of its venerable cloisters. This monastery was also burnt down A. D. 1305, when the furious Richard II. made his descent upon Scotland. • Guthrie*s History of Scotland, and Keith's Catalogue of Scotch Bishops. 23 Archibald Crawfurd, Lord High Treasurer of Scotland, a younger son of William Crawfurd, proprietor of the lands of Manuel and Haining, in Stirlingshire, having been bred to the church, and passed through several inferior ec- clesiastical stations, was, in 1457^ nominated Abbot of Holyroodhouse. He obtained high reputation on account of his talents and integrity, and was employed in many im- portant civil transactions. In 1458 he was nominated one of the Lords of Council and Session, which at that time was only an ambulatory Committee of Parliament. He was frequently appointed ambassador to the court of Eng- land ; and was included with others, to negotiate a treaty of marriage by James II. and a daughter of Edward IV., which did not succeed. He is here mentioned on account of having contributed materially to the embellishment of the monastery, and particularly in altering the old Norman fabric built by David I. into the pointed style of architec- ture which the present magnificent ruins exhibit *. He died in 1483. As the various alterations made upon the buildings of Holyroodhouse are described in the sequel, it will suffice here to observe, that after this Church and Abbey had re- mained for 400 years in the fields, apart from any other building. King James V. about A. D. 1528, erected a house for his own residence near the south-west corner of the Churchy with a circular turret at each angle. This is the present tower at the north-west corner of the Palace of Holyroodhouse. In April 1544, during the irruption of the Earl of Hert- ford, this Abbey, together with the adjacent palace, were nearly reduced to ashes by the fury of his unprincipled * His arms are to be seen beautifully cut on one of the flying buttresses, on the north side of the nave of the Abbey. 24 soldiery. The choir and transept of the church were then destroyed, and nothing left standing but the nave, of which the ruins only now remain. At this time the brazen font of curious workmanship, ornamented with Scripture sub- jects, and in which the children of the Kings of Scotland were usually baptized, was carried off by Sir Richard Lea, the captain of the English pioneers, who presented it to the church of St Albans, in Hertfordshire, after he had caused the following haughty and imperious inscription to be engraven upon it : — " Cum Laethia, oppidum apud Scotos non incelebre, et Edinburgus, primaria apud eos civitas, incendio conflagrant, Richardus Leus^ eques auratus, me flammis ereptum ad Anglos perduxit. Hujus ego tanti beneficii memor, non nisi regum liberos lavare solitus, nunc meam operam etiam in- fimis Anglorum libfi libenter condixi. Leus victor sic voluit. Vale. A. D. M.D. XLIII. et Anno Henrici Octavi XXXVI TRANSLATED. When Leith, a town of good account in Scotland, and Edinburgh, the principal city of that nation, were on fire, Sir Richard Lea, knight, saved me out of the flames, and brought me into England. In gratitude to him for his kindness, I, who hitherto served only at the baptism of the children of kings, do now most willingly offer the same service, even to the meanest of the English nation. Lea the Conqueror hath so commanded. Adieu. A. D. 1543, in the 36th year of King Henry VIII. " No doubt,'' as Sir Walter Scott justly observes, "this mighty hero who had achieved so glorious an enterprize as * Camb. Britannia in Com. Hereford. Kincaid's A pp. 25 that of taking away a brass font in the midst of the tumult occasioned by a conflae^ratiouj hoped to inform posterity of his renown, by the memorial engraven upon the trophy won by his exploits ; but, alas ! ambition knows not its own destiny ; the victor's spoil became in its turn the spoil of rebellious regicides ; for during the civil wars that raged under the unfortunate Charles, this sacred emblem of con- quest was taken down and sold for its weight, and ignobly destroyed ; nor would the memory of Sir Richard Lea's valour have survived, but for the diligence of the above ac- curate antiquarian After the battle of Pinkey, A. D. 1547, the Protector, Duke of Somerset, sent two of his generals to suppress the monastery of Sanctce Crucis, On their arrival they found that the fraternity had fled ; and the church and palace be- ing well covered with lead, these pillagers stripped it off, took down the bells, and committed several other acts of outrage *}-. It may be proper to mention here, that during the exist- ence of the Abbey, there were several private altars within the Abbatial Church, at which chaplains officiated, in virtue of certain specific grants by pious individuals for their sup- port, and for defraying the necessary expenses attending the performance of masses for the repose of the souls of their founders and others. These altars were dedicated to cer- tain saints at the pleasure of their founders. In this Church, two of the altars were dedicated to St Andrew and St Catherine, another to St Anne, by the tailors of Edin- burgh ; and a fourth, founded by the Cordwainers, was de- dicated to Crispin and Crispiniani, whose images were placed upon it. The origin of these private altars is curious, and inti- * Border Ant. Hist. Descrip. No. VI. p. 77. t Patten's Expedit. Dalziel's Edit. p. 22. 2& mately connected with some of the most valuable relicks of papistical antiquity in Edinburgh. the crusades, one of the religious delusions of other times, a certain number of men, chosen from every craft in Edinburgh, were sent off to Soudainrie^ who performed astonishing prodigies in the escalade of the Sacred City, and planted their standard, * The Blue Blanket first upon the Holy Grave^ and hence designated ' Insignia Sancti Spiritus^'' or the ban- ner of the ' Holy Ghost.'' Such of them as returned were consecrated Knights of that order, with innumerable privi- leges and immunities to them and their successors. The sacred banner was suspended over the titular saiut of the city, in the collegiate church of St Giles ; and altars were founded and endowed by each separate body, to their re- spective saint and patron, in the church to which they were appended. Hence the origin of these altars in the royal chapel ; and as every one who had fought under the ban- ners of the cross was entitled to assume this banner upon his shield of arms, it sufficiently accounts for that device being so frequently found on the sepulchral stones "I* that pave the aisles of Holyrood, though erected to the memory of the burgesses of Canongate. • Vide Records in Pub. Arc. Edin. 1463. Grose's Ant — This stand- ard was granted to the Edinburghers, by James III. as a perpetual re- membrance of their loyalty and bravery on his account. It is denomi- nated the Blue Blanket^ from its colour, and is delivered to the Convener of the trades with much ceremony, being considered as the palladium of the liberties of the city, and is preserved with the greatest care and ve- neration. This ancient ensign was unfurled on the occasion of the visit of George IV. to Edinburgh in 1822. •j* Some think that the grave-stones, &c. on which crosses and ships are sculptured, have belonged originally to the descendants of the Knights Templars, or guardians of the Holy Sepulchre and Temple, who were the original Canons regular^ and brought into Scotland by David I. founder of the said Abbey, who granted them the privileges above mentioned, es- pecially in the Canongate, at Leith, and the Water-of-Leith. In after 27 One remarkable private foundation of this kind in the Church of Holyrood, was that of George Creichton, Bi- shop of Dunkeld, during the reign of James V. It was connected with St Thomas'^s Chapel and Almshouse, found- ed by that prelate, at the foot of the Canongate, near the Water Gate ; and is particularly specified in the Charter of Foundations, of which the following outline is given by Mr Maitland, in his history of Edinburgh, (p. 1 54,) and here introduced as a specimen of the manner of proceeding in such erections in the times of popery ; viz. " George Creichton, by divine mercy. Bishop of Dunkeld, and of love to God, for the augmentation of his worship, and for the welfare and prosperity of his Lord James V. by the grace of God, present King of Scotland, his dearest son James, Prince and Steward of Scotland, and Duke of Rothsay ; and for the souls of the illustrious princes, James III. and IV. Kings of Scots, their father and grandfather, and Mary, Queen of Scotland, consort to the said James III. ; the soul of Magdalene, daughter to Francis, King of France, and consort to the said James V. for the serene times, when these buildings were feued out to seculars, they were careful to preserve the cross of the order upon the top of all houses that were for- merly in their possession, as a particular mark that they were subject to them, and only liable to answer in their courts. In after times, the Knights of St John of Jerusalem acquired the im- mense possessions of the Templars, whose cross or device being the same, (thus [•]-] in form of the letter T) was likewise ordered to be put upon all houses feued out by these Knights ; whereupon we see to this day a great many crosses upon the top of buildings, both in Edinburgh and Leith, and their precincts, which formerly belonged to them, and are as yet subject to those who acquired the superiority at the Reformation, Keith, Bel H, chap, xiv. p. 216. With regard to their original settlement in this country, we extract the following from the Book or Char» Record of Coupar. " Sanctus David de praeclarae militiae templi Hierosolymitani optimos fratres secum retinens, eos diebus et noctibus morum suorum fecit esse custodes,'' &c. 38 prince, John Duke of Albany ; for his own (the founder's) soul, and that of his dearest son John Earl of Mar, bro- ther to the said James IV. King of Scots ; the souls of the founder's father and mother, brethren, sisters, and all his relations, predecessors, and successors ; and of all those whom he had in any ways offended, from whom he had re- ceived any benefit^ and for such as he was obliged to pray, and all others departed this life ; Gives and grants, in pure and perpetual alms, to the honour of Almighty God, the most blessed Virgin Mary, his mother, and all saints, all the lands of Lochflat, with their appurtenances, lying with- in the sheriffdom of Edinburgh, which he devised in trust to James Greg, and John Fair, chaplains, and their suc- cessors, celebrating divine service at the altars of St An- drew and St Katherine, within the Monastical Church of Holyroodhouse, near the town of Edinburgh, in the south- ern chapel, adjoining to the high altar of the said church, the rents and profits thereof to be disposed of as follows : viz. — To each of the said chaplains, 24 merks yearly, 40 shillings to the canons of said conventual church of Holy- rood, to celebrate the founder'^s anniversary ohit^ by solemn- ly singing in the choir of the said church, on the day of his death yearly, the placebo and dirige^^ with a mass in the same place of the day following, for the repose of his soul and those of the abovementioned ; 16 shillings for eight wax candles, viz. two in each of the said chapels ; two on the high altar, and two upon the founder'^s tomb, decently adorned ; 10 shillings for six tapers of three pounds weight, to be lighted up and burnt on the said anniversary * The placebo was a certain ceremony performed in the ancient Romish churches, for the repose of the dead, and consisted in the frequent repeti- tion of prayers and Ave Marias^ The dirige, or dirge, was a funeral la- ment, sung or lamented over the grave of the deceased,-— Ftffe Anglo Sax» AnU p. ^53. ^^9 during mass ; three shillings for ringing the great bells*; and eight pennies for ringing the small or hand-bell through the towns of Edinburgh and Canongate ; two shillings to the bearers of the torches about the said altar and founder's tomb ; 30 shillings for the support of four wax candles, to be kindled and burnt on the said altar, decently adorned, during the first and second vespers, and respective festivals throughout the year ; 30 shillings to be given to 30 poor persons ; 10 shillings for bread and wine for the celebration of masses at the foresaid altars ; 20 shillings to repair the decorations of said altars ; an annuity of four pounds to the church of St Mary in the Field ; and eight pounds yearly to the abbot and canons of the said monastery, as a feu- farm or quit-rent for the said lands of Lochflat ; and to seven poor old men, and their successors, to be lodged in an alms-house, to be built by the founder near the Abbey of Holyroodhouse aforesaid, the yearly sum of 24 merks each : And for defraying the annual expenses above men- tioned, certain lands and tenements were appropriated by the founder, and the charge thereof vested in the chaplains, who officiated at the altar of St Andrew aforesaid, and his successors, for which he and they were to receive an an- nual salary of 20s. ; and tlie surplusage of the revenues to be employed in repairing the house, furniture, &c., but in case of a non-acceptance of the said trust, or in absence of the said principal chaplain, the assistant chaplain was to execute the said trust, and receive the salary above men- tioned.'*'' There were also certain rules and constitutions specified in the said charter of St Thomas's Hospital, to be observed by the said chaplains and alms-men, which are here insert- * The bells on these occasions were tolled in a particular manner : '* Haec (sanctimonialis Begu) dum in dormitorio sororum pausans, audi- vit subito in aere notum campance, quo adorationes excitari vel convocari solebunt cum quis earura de saeculo fuisset convocata/' c 30 ed, as affording an interesting specimen of the ancient cere- monies observed at those private altars in the Abbey Church of Holyroodhouse, and which were customary at similar altars in such churches throughout the kingdom, viz. : — "1. That the said chaplains shall say mass daily at the said altars ; and at the beginning of each mass, to exhort the people to say one Pater Noster^ and an Ave Maria, for the soul of the founder, and those of the persons above mentioned ; and after celebrating the mass, clothed in white, shall repair to his grave, with a sprinkler dip in holy water, and there say the psalm De profundis, with prayers requi- site for the souls aforesaid : When done, the said chaplains shall sprinkle the bishop's tomb and the people present with holy water, and weekly celebrate the Placebo and Dirige for the repose of his soul, and those of the persons above named. 2. The chaplains aforesaid shall have the care and go- vernment of the alms-men, to correct, chastise and punish them, if necessary ; and if any of them be frequently guilty of breaking the rules and constitutions of the alms-house, it shall be lawful for the patrons of the alms-house to re- move them, and place others in their stead. " 3. That the alms-men shall rise about eight of the clock in the morning, and say fifteen Pater Nosters, the same number of Ave Marias, and three Credos in Deum Patrem, in honour of God, the blessed Virgin Mary, his mother, and St Andrew, and St Katherine aforesaid ; and shall sit and pray before the said chapel for the founder's soul, and those of the persons above mentioned ; and on Sundays and festivals, as often as they enter the church for divine service, shall put on their red gowns, and at high mass sit before the altar of the chapel in the said conven- tual church, and there say fifty Ave Marias, five Pater Nosters, and one Credo : And in like manner, in time of vespers, to say two rosaries of the blessed Virgin ; and in 31 their red gowiis to walk at all processions ; to leave their red gowns to their successors, and not to beg under the pain of ejection, seeing they have sufficient allowances for their maintenance. Jnno 1541." The patronage of the above mentioned St Thomas's Chapel and alms-house, in the event of the failure of cer- tain persons nominate, of the name of Creichton, and their heirs, the founder appointed to devolve to the Abbot and Canons of the Abbey of Holyroodhouse. It was, however, on 31st March, A. D. 1617? conveyed by the chaplains and headmen, with consent of David Creichton of Lugtoun, the patron, to the Magistrates and Council of Canongate, for " a certain sum of money to be and remain an hospi- tal for the use of the poor'' of that burgh. And again, on the 30th January, 1624, it was sold to the kirk-session of Holyroodhouse as an hospital for the Canongate poor, at the disposal of that kirk-session. In the church of Holyrood were kept several relicks and bones of saints, which were produced when any public acts were expede : and our retours of the services of heirs still mention, " In capella Domini Nostri Regis. James III. was married in the church of Holyrood, to Margaret, daughter of Christian, King of Denmark, on the 10th July 1469. The solemnities on the occasion are described as being of the most sumptuous nature. On Sunday morning, 29th July 1565, between five and six in the morning, Mary Queen of Scots was married to Henry Lord Darnley, Duke of Albany, in the chapel of Holyrood, by Henry Sinclair, Dean of Rastelrig, and Pre- sident of the Court of Session, amidst much banqueting and rejoicing, which continued for several days. King James IV. and Ann, daughter of Frederick II. King of Denmark and Norway, were crowned in the chapel of Holyrood, on 20th May 1590, by Robert Bruce of Kinnaird, minister in Edinburgh, 32 In this church are interred the following royal persons- ages : — David II. King of Scotland, who had meditated^ along with the rest of the Christian princes, an expedition to the Holy Land, " Ad dominandum paganorum ferocitatem,**' but died without accomplishing his purpose, in the castle of Edinburgh, on 7th May 1370, in the 47th year of his age, and 39th of his reign, and was buried near to the high altar, in the monastery of Holyrood. Joannes Fordun has left a most elaborate epitaph to his memory, which would appear to have been inscribed upon his sepulchre, beginning as follows : — " Hie ReoG sub lapide David inclitus est tumulatus. " Here lies the renowned King David under this stone*." King James II. of Scotland, who was killed by the bursting of a cannon at the siege of Roxburgh Castle, Augo 3, 1460, in the 30th year of his age, and 23d of his reign. Prince Arthur, third son of James IV. (who was slain at the battle of Floddenfield ;) he died in the castle of Edinburgh, 15th July 1510, aged nine months. James V. of Scotland ; he died at his palace of Falkland of a broken heart, 14th December 1542, in the 31st year of his age, and 30th of his reign, — a few days after the birth of his daughter, afterwards Mary Queen of Scots. Magdalen, Queen of J ames V. and daughter of Francis I. King of France ; she died 10th July 1537, the 17th year of her age, universally lamented. — The following in- teresting account, it is presumed, will be acceptable to our readers : — The King and Queen being arrived at Leith, upon the 29th of May, in the year 1537? ^t reported, that after * Vide Scotochromcon, v. 11. p. 380. Ruddiman's Notes. Hearne's MS. Buchan» Hist: Reriim ScotiGarum, lib. ix. Barbour's Hii^t. Met. 33 the Queen (Magdalen) put her foot upon the shore, upon her knees she kissed the ground, praying for all happynesse to the countrey and people. Never a Queen in soe short a tyme was soe beloved of her husband, nor sooner made con- queists of the hearts of her subjects ; but she lived not many weeks efter her arryveall in Scotland, when of a fever she contracted in June, she departed this life in July there- after. She was burryed with the grettest mourning Scot- land ever till that tyme was participand of, in the church of Holyrudehouse, near to King James the Second ^.""^ Arthur Duke of Albany, second son of James V. died at Stirling, and was interred beside his illustrious parent in the Abbey of Holyrood, aged eight days-f*. Henry Lord Darnley, husband of Mary Queen of Scots, murdered 10th February 1567? 21st year of his age, was also interred in the Abbey of Holyrood ; the fate of this unhappy nobleman is too well known to require any account of it here. J ane Countess of Archibald, fifth Earl of Argyle, natu- ral daughter of James V. by Elizabeth, daughter of John Lord Carmichael. She was at supper with her sister, Queen Mary, when the blood of Rizzio was shed at her feet, 9th March, 1566. She stood sponsor for Queen Eli- zabeth, at the baptism of James VI. for which she was af- terwards condemned by the Presbyterian clergy, to do pub- lic penance in the church of St Giles at Edinburgh J. Dying without issue, she was inclosed in one of the richest coffins ever seen in Scotland, the compartments and in- scriptions being all of solid gold, and was interred beside her royal relatives. * History of Scotland, Drummond's Hist. Pitscottie, p. 159. f Pinkerton's Hist. II. 37L t Dalyell'g Scot. Poems, v. li, p. 26, 27. 34 The best and most authentic account of the Regalia Sepultura is to be found in a MS. note of a search made for that purpose, preserved in the Advocates' Library, Edinburgh, and is as follows, viz. " Upon ye xxiv of Jan. MDCLXXXIII, by procurement of ye Bishop of Dum- blayne, I went into ane vault in ye southeast corner of ye Abbey church of Halyrudehouse, and yr. were present, ye Lord Strathnaver and E. Forfare, Mr Robert Scott, minis- ter of ye Abbey, the Bishop of Dumblayn, and some uthers. Wee viewed ye body of King James ye Fyft of Scotland. It lyeth withine ane wodden coffin, and is coveret with ane lead coffin. There seemed to be haire upon ye head still. The body was two lengths of my staff, with two inches mare, that is twae inches and mare above twae Scots elnes ; for I measured the staff with ane eldwand afterward. " The body was coloured black with ye balsom that pre- served it, which was lyke melted pitch. The Earl of For- fare took the measure with his staf lykewayes. There was plates of lead, in several long pieces, louse upon and about the coffin, which carried the following inscription, as I took it from before the bishop and noblemen in ye isle of ye church : — " ILLVSTRIS SCOTORVM REX JACOBVS EJVS NOMINIS V. ^TATIS SUiE ANNO XXXI: REG- NI VERO XXX: MORTEM OBIIT IN PALACIO DE FALKLAND 14 DECEMBRIS, ANNO D— NI MDXLII, CVJVS CORPVS HIC TRADITVM EST SEPVVRE. " Next ye south wall, in a smaller arch, lay a shorter coffin with ye teeth in the skull. " To the little coffin in the narrow arch, seemeth to be- 35 long this inscription made out of long pieces of lead in the Saxon character : llrCmo^genita M^jjina ^totfar, B^on^u Si^toU Mt^i^^ A. D. MDXXXVIII. OBIIT. " There was ane piece of a lead crown, upon the syde of whilk I saw two floor-de-leuces gilded ; and upon ye north side of ye coffin lay two children, none of the coffins a full elne long, and one of them lying within ane-wod chest, the other only the lead coffin. " Upon the south syde, next the King's body, lay ane grete coffin of lead, with the body in it. The muscles of the thigh seemed to be entire ; the body not so long as Kyng James the Fyfth, and ye balsam stagnating in some quantity at the foote of the coffin ; there appeared no in- scription upon ye coffin. " And at ye east syde of the vault which was at ye feet of the other coffins, lay a coffin, with the skull sawen in two, and ane inscription in small letters, gilded upon a square of ye lead coffin, making it to be ye bodye of Dame Jane Stewart^ Countess of Argyle^ MDLXXXV. or thereby, for I do not well remember ye yeare. The largest coffin I suld suppose to be that of Lord Darnley, and the short coffin, Queen Magdalen's*."'' At the Reformation, the various habitations of the dead were violated, and the lead coffins were sold. About this time the vault was erected, in which the remains of the royal family of Scotland are now secured. Here also were deposited the remains of the Duchess de Gramont, one of the blood royal, at least one of the nobles of that unfortunate dynasty of the family of the Bourbons, who remained for a considerable time in exile in this country, many of whom had apartments as- * MS. in Bib, Ad. VV. III. 36 signed them by the British Government;, in the Palace of Holyroodhouse. On Charles X. attaining the throne, these remains were ordered to be conveyed to France, to be deposited in the tomb of their own kindred. On the 25th October 1825, the French sloop of war L'Actif, Captain de Portzampare, having arrived in Leith Roads, for the purpose -of conveying the remains of Madame la Duchesse de Guiche et de Gramont, to France, from the cemetery of Holyroodhouse, and a letter having been received by the I^ord Provost from the Secretary of State, requesting that every facility and respect should be paid on the occasion ; his Lordship and the Magistrates, with the Lord Advocate, and Lord Chief Baron, attended on Monday, accompanied by a number of distinguished in- dividuals. — Sir Henry Jardine, King's Remembrancer, ac- companied by his Depute, Mr Longmore ; Sir Patrick Walker, Usher of the White Rod ; the Chevalier Madol Dugas, on the part of the Duke of Gramont, and a gen- tleman from the Duke of Hamilton, the Keeper of the Palace of Holyroodhouse, at whose expense the exhumation took place, proceeded to open the Royal Vault in the Chapel, where the body had been deposited for upwards of twenty years. The coffin having been found to be partly decayed, a new oaken one was made ; it was very elegant, being covered with crimson velvet, with gold mountings, and ducal coronets. The company as they arrived were shown into the Duke of Hamilton'^s apartments, and the whole of them having assembled about twenty minutes be- fore twelve o'clock, the hearse, followed by four mourning coaches, with four horses each, moved from the Palace, by the royal access to the Abbey Hill, the great London road, and Bonnington, to Newhaven. Count Vladimir Davidoff, a relative of the deceased, attached to the Russian Em- bassy in London, officiated as chief mourner. Captain de Portzampare, with his officers, were in attendance at New- haven pier, where the coffin was received into the Admi-- 37 ralty barge with due solemnity ; it was then deposited in an outer case, and covered with a white cloth and ensign ; the white flag was then hoisted half-mast, and the barge proceeded to the L' Actif, accompanied by the officers of that ship in her launch, also with the flag half-mast, the whole being conducted in perfect silence, which, joined to the respectability of those who attended the departure of the remains of the illustrious lady from our shores, had a very imposing effect. The Duchess was related to most of the crowned heads of Europe. The Monastery of Holyrood was situated in a small valley at the eastern extremity of the Canongate, having the hills of Arthur Seat and Salisbury Craigs on the south, the Calton Hill on the north, and the ancient City of Edinburgh, towering majestically towards the Castle, on the west ; the ground eastward being almost a plain, with a gentle inclination towards the Frith of Forth. Previous to offering any description of the building it- self, it may be proper to submit an account of the uniform situation and distribution of a religious establishment during the prevalence of our ecclesiastical architecture, as this will tend to convey a more correct idea of the probable nature, and the original extent, of the accommodations of Holyrood Abb^y. This general description of an Abbey is taken from a per- spicuous account of the town of Shrewsbury, published in 1808 *. " The principal buildings of an abbey were, — 1st, The church, which consisted of a nave or great western aisle, choir, transept, and usually a large chapel beyond the choir, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, with smaller chapels or chantries adjoining the side aisles of the choir, and sometimes of the nave. In short, an abbey church differed hardly at all from one of our cathedrals. Attach- * See also Brewster's Encyclopaedia, Art. Civil Architecture, Section anent Practice of Gothic Architecture. 38 ed to one side of the nave, commonly the southern, was, 2dly5 The great cloister, which had two entrances to the church, at the eastern and western ends of the aisle of the nave, for the greater solemnity of processions. And over the western side of the cloister was in general, 3dly, The dormitory of the monks ; a long room divided into separate cells, each containing a bed, with a mat, blanket, and rug, also a desk and stool, occupied by a monk. This apart- ment had a door which opened immediately into the church, on account of midnight offices. Attached to the side of the cloister, opposite to the church, was, 4thly, The refectory where the monks dined. In the centre of the upper end, raised on two or three steps, was a large crucifix. On the right hand, at a table, sat the abbot, when he dined there ; and, in his absence, the prior with his guests, of which there were every day many ; and on the left the sub-prior. The monks sat at tables ranged on each side of the hall, according to their offices and seniority. Near the refectory, under which were cellars, as at Worcester, &c., was, Sthly, The locutorium, or parlour, an apartment answering to the common room of a college, where, in the intervals of prayer and study, the monks sat and conversed. This was the only room in which a constant fire was allowed in win- ter. Beyond was the kitchen and its offices, and adjoining to it the buttery, lavatory, &c. On the eastern side of the cloisters was, in the centre, 6thly, The chapter-house, where the business of the abbey was transacted. On one side was a place with stone benches around it, where per- haps the tenants waited ; on the other, a room in which records were deposited, and near it the library and scrip- torium, where the monks employed themselves in copying books. On this side also, close up to the transept of the church, was the treasury, where the costly plate and church ornaments were kept. Beyond the greater cloister was frequently, in the greater abbeys, a smaller, perhaps for the 39 lay brothers, as at Gloucester ; and more eastward was the lodging of the abbot, consisting of a complete house, with hall, chapel, &c. The other principal officers of the con- vent had also separate houses, viz. the cellarer or house- steward, the sacrist, almoner, &c. as at Worcester. In this part was usually the hostery and guesten hall, rooms for the entertainment of strangers ; also the apartments for novices. Westward of the cloister was an outward court, round which was the monks^ infirmary, and the almery. An embattled gate-house led to this court, which was the principal entrance of the abbey. The whole was surround- ed with an high wall, generally fortified with battlements and towers. The precinct which it included, was, besides the above mentioned buildings, occupied by gardens, stables, a mill, barns, granary, &c. Some of the great abbeys, si- tuated in the country, as at Glastonbury and Furness, co- vered sixty acres."** The Abbey Sanctce Crucis originally stood upon the same spot which the Royal Palace of Holyroodhouse, with the adjoining courts and gardens, now occupy. The prin- cipal entrance was from the west, under a portico of point- ed arches, surmounted by turrets. The portico, which stood across the street leading from the foot of the Canon- gate into the outer or western court of the Palace, was taken down in the year 1755. The conventual church was situated at the north side of the abbey, and built in the form of a cross, with a square tower or lantern, raised upon four large pillars, with lofty connecting arches, in the cen- tre of the building, where the four branches met ; the choir and Lady's Chapel occupying the branch eastward of the great central tower, and the transept forming the north and south branches. These parts of the church were destroyed, as before mentioned, about the middle of the 16th century ; and all that now remains is the unroofed nave, or western branch of the conventual church, being what was lately 40 fitted up as a Royal Chapel in the Reign of James VII. together with some fragments of the transept and cloister. The cloister joined this part of the church on the south, and communicated with it by two doors, the eastmost of which still remains at the back of the Royal Vault. From traces still visible on the ground, the choir and Lady'^s Chapel appear to have extended about as far eastward into the park, as the length of the remaining part of the build- ing : Whence it may be inferred, that the lantern tower had stood at equal distances from the eastern and western extremities of the church, as in York Cathedral. Another square tower still remains at the north-west corner of the church, which appears to have belonged to the original structure. Most probably it is one of two towers which had flanked the great western entrance, in the same man- ner with those of the Abbey churches of Dunfermline and Westminster, and the Cathedrals of Elgiii, Aberdeen, York, Lichfield, and many others. The buildings of the Palace are joined to the church at the place where the south-western tower had stood. The Royal Chapel, which forms the more immediate subject of inquiry, is built of freestone, of an oblong form, extending, over walls, about 148 feet from west to east, and 66 feet from north to south. This, as before noticed, was the nave of the original conventual church, and, when entire, consisted of a centre and two side aisles, communi- cating with each other by a double range of equilateral pointed arches, consisting of eight in either row, and spring- ing from clustered columns, with lightly ornamented capi- tals. Above each of these rows, a second range of smaller pointed arches, double in number, formed the front of a gallery over the stone vaulting of the side aisles ; and on the top of each of these second rows, (as marks in the ruined walls still evince,) was a third range of similar small arches, open towards the inside of the church, and forming a gal- 41 lery or passage in the thickness of the walls, by which 3 communication was maintained with either extremity of the building, in the same manner as in Melrose Abbey, Dunblane Cathedral, &c. and many other ancient churches. In the outside of this upper gallery or passage, which rose a story higher than the side aisles, were a number of long and narrow lancet-topped windows, which conveyed light into the upper part of the middle aisle*. The roof of this upper part of the building was vaulted with groins and intersecting stone ribs, in a manner similar to the roofs of St Giles's and Trinity College Churches of Edinburgh. It fell down in I768, as already mentioned, when the walls and flying buttresses which crossed the tops of the side aisles, gave way, and destroyed in their fall the upper win- dows and galleries on both sides, the roof of the north aisle, and the range of pillars and arches that divided it from the middle aisle* of the church. The pillars and large arches of the southern range, with the south side aisle, escaped this destruction, and are still entire, also the smaller arches of the second story, that formed the gallery immediately over the south side aisle ; but the gallery itself is hid by a low modern roof, which protects the only part of the stone vaulting that now remains. This building has been long considered an elegant speci- men of what is generally called Gothic, or pointed archi- tecture. From its appearance, it partakes both of the first and second orders of the pointed style, or what chiefly pre- vailed in ecclesiastical fabrics from the beginning of the 12th, to the latter end of the 13th century. Upon a mi- nute inspection, however, the pointed work in many places appears to have been superinduced upon the old Norman work, such as generally prevailed during the 11th and early * See outside view of this Abbey Church in Maitland's History of Edin- burgh, which represents it with the roof entire, as in 1753. 42 part of the 12th centuries, and which was not altogether superseded by the pointed style, until the latter end of the 12th century. Several characteristic features, indeed, of the old Norman style of that period, may still be seen in various parts of this building, such as the semicircular-top- ped window, the chevron, or zig-zag, and billet mouldings, the interlacing arcades along the basement story, and the flat pilaster on the outside walls, that preceded the pro- jecting buttress. These, with the parts immediately adja- cent to them, there is reason to believe, are the remains of the original work of David I. which was begun in 1128. The other parts of the fabric, which are in the pointed style, have, we think, as already hinted, been superinduced upon that original work at different successive periods. The greater number of the religious structures of that age, it is well known, experienced similar treatment ; and Holyrood Abbey was not entirely freed from " this struggle of the styles.**' Dallaway, in his Anecdotes of Architecture, states, " that the Chapel of Holyroodhouse was finished about the year 1440, by James II. King of Scotland, and is flanked with flying buttresses, like those of King's College Chapel, Cambridge, and Westminster Abbey, but with happier ef- fect, because in a purer style.*" The flying buttresses, with several other embellishments, as formerly noticed, were added by Abbot Crawfurd, who died 1483. Of these, the under range remains on the south side of the church. They spring from piers placed about 10 feet distant from the wall, and, crossing the walk of the cloister, rest against the top of flat Norman pilasters in the wall of the south aisle*. Evident marks of the roof to a covered walk round the cloister are still visible, both upon the south wall of the church, and on these buttresses. • See a south-east view of this church in Arnot's Hist, of Edinburgh, 4to. 43 A range of upright buttresses, with canopied niches* and pinnacles of a recent date, remain against the north wall of the church ; but the flying buttresses, which sprung from the tops of these under buttresses, across the north and south side aisles, to support the upper walls that rose above the arches of the nave, have shared the same fate with the roof, walls, and internal arches, with which they were con- nected. As a corroborative proof of the change, from the circular to the pointed style, above alluded to, it may be here noticed, that the small windows of both the north and south aisles, correspond in their dimensions and general ap- pearance to those of the 11th and 12th centuries. Those in the north wall bear evident marks of alteration from the narrow semicircular tops of the Norman school, to the slightly pointed tops introduced in the middle, or latter end of the 12th century ; while the original capitals and bases of the small pillars, which had stood at either side of these windows, still remain. The windows of the south wall have still round tops and small pillars on the outside, but inwardly are very slightly pointed. Besides these frag- ments of the old church of David I. there also remains, in the south wall, and immediately at the back of the Royal Vault, the eastmost of the two doors that led from the nave into the cloister. It is of Norman workmanship, and with a semicircular top, surrounded with the billet and chevron, or zigzag mouldings. The western door into the cloister is now concealed by the buildings of the Palace. The basement story on the outside of the south wall, westward from this door, and which formed the north boundary of the cloister, is also adorned with an arcade of small pointed • Over these niches are a number of armorial bearings, (some of them much defaced,) finely executed in stone ; among which are found the said Abbot, Archibald Crawfurd's ; viz. " A fesserminey with a star of five points in chief t Or, surrounded by a bishop^ s mitre, proper j resting upon a cross and sali^r^ cross lettered^ proper/^ 44 arches rising from small pillars ; and both this and the north wall are lined along the inside of the basement story with similar arcades, rising from small pillars with orna- mented capitals. Those against the north wall are inter- laced ; and where they intersect each other, describe point- ed arches. Such arcades were uniformly used by the Nor- man architects, prior to the introduction of the pointed style, and generally are considered to have given rise to the pointed arch. The principal entrance to this Church, as usual in such buildings, was by a large arched door at the western extre- mity, which opened immediately into the centre aisle. It was used only on extraordinary occasions, and for particu- lar ceremonies. There is also, in the north wall, and open- ing into the north side aisle, a smaller door, ornamented with niches, &c. in a manner which corresponds to the time of Abbot Crawfurd. This door had probably been the or- dinary entrance for those who did not live within the mo- nastery ; while the two doors entering from the cloister, afforded the readiest access to the Canons, and other inmates of the establishment. At the west end of the Chapel, a little from the belfry, and nearly in a line with the pillars on that side of the nave, is a door that opens into a stair leading to the Rood - loft. South from the great west entrance is another door, now walled up, that had led into the south-west tower of the church ; and close by it, in the south wall, is the com- munication with the quadrangle of the Palace, through which visitors are usually conducted into the Chapel. The external prospect of the Chapel from the east, con- sists of one large window in the centre, with a lesser one on each side, placed in the arches which had originally se- parated the nave from the transept. The large centre win- dow is slightly pointed : the tM^o lesser ones more acutely ; 45 and both are raised on clustered half pillars, partly con- cealed by the modern east wall. Before the Reformation, the Chapel Royal of Holyrood was used for the coronations, marriages, baptisms, and fu^ nf the Barons of Exchequer. 53 gave orders, in the year I8I65 for repairing these ruins, m as to preserve them in the precise state they were at the time ; and their directions were executed with great care^ and in good taste, and these highly interesting ruins bid fair to brave the fury of the elements for ages to come. The Arms of Scotland, cut out of oak, which originally stood above the grand entrance of the Chapel Royal, were taken down and carried away in 1821 ; but through the praise-worthy exertions of Mr Bland, Royal Sexton, they were recovered, and for better security placed in the inte- rior of the Chapel. These arms are of great antiquity^ having been considered by some as old as the Chapel. LIST of CHURCHES and RELIGIOUS HOUSES, that were dependent upon the Abbey of Sanct^ Crucis^ or HOLYROOD. 1. St Mary's Isle, near Kirkcudbright, in Galloway, which was founded in the reign of Malcolm IV. or rather David I. by Fergus, Lord of Galloway, and called Prior a- tus Sanctce Marice de TraylL The monks were of the same order of regulars as those of Holyrood, and their Prior was a Lord, and member of the Scots Parliament. 2. Blantyre, in Clydesdale, a priory of the same order, was founded before A. D. 1296 ; for at that time Frere Wil- liam^ Prior de Blantyr^ is mentioned as a subscriber to Ragman's Roll, Prynne, p. 663. Walter Stuart, Com- mendator of this place, was Lord Privy Seal in the year 1595, and soon afterwards treasurer, upon the Master of Glammis's dismission. He was also raised to the peerage by the title of Lord Blantyre, on the 10th July 1606, from whom is descended the present nobleman of that name. 3. RowADiL, in the Isle of Harries, in Ross-shire, found- ed by M^Leod of Harries, It was situate on the south- 54 east point of that island, on the sea-coast, under Ben Ro- wadill. 4. C BUS AY, in the western isles, founded by St Columba. 5. Oronsay, one of the western isles in the shire of Ar- gyle, founded also by the said St Columba. It gave the title of Lord to the Earls of Islay, who are now extinct. 6. CoLONSAY, (" one of the western isles of Argyleshire,'') was an abbey, founded by the Lord of the Isles, the canons whereof were brought from Holyroodhouse. There is very little known of what took place there or in the other islands, both on account of their remote situation and the loss of their records. — See Spottiswood's Religious Houses^ annewed to Hope'^s Minor Practicks. LIST OF ABBOTS, &c. The following imperfect list, Avhich History or Tradition has now left of the Abbots, and other inmates of this Mo- nastery, is still interesting and worthy of preservation. 1128. — -The first Abbot was Alcucius, who relinquished his charge the following year. To him succeeded Osbert, who died A. D. 1129, who was succeeded by William, Third Abbot. 1150. — Alwin is Abbot of the See. (Nicl. Hist. lib. p. 335.) 1160. — Fergus, Lord of Galloway, one of its noblest and earliest benefactors, having sought an asylum here from the cares and troubles of a turbulent period, paid the great debt of nature within its hallowed walls. His relicks were interred near to the high altar, with all the pomp and splen- dour of monastic solemnity. 1178, — William, Abbot of Holyrood, is a witness to a charter granted to the Abbey of Arbroath, ( Cart- Aher- hro.) 35 1206. — John, Bishop of Candida Casa, or Whithorn^ in Galloway, closed a long life of religious labour and de- votion in this Abbey. 1207- — William being Abbot of this church, John, bi- shop of Candida Casa, relinquishing his pastoral charge, became a monk under him. Died, and was buried in the church of Holyrood, A. D. 1209. 1209. — Walter, Prior of Icolmkill, made Abbot of Ho- lyrood. Jan. 1212. — Died Walter, Abbot of Holyrood, to whom succeeded William, formerly an eleve in this Abbey. 1221. — William ejected from his pastoral office, to whom succeeded William, the son of Owin, a man well esteemed and honourable : 1226. — On account of his age and infirmities, he resigns his charge, and entered as a hermit into the island of Inch- keith ; to whom succeeded Hellas, the son of Nicholai, a priest, a man devout and of good speech. 1231. — Died Osbert, Bishop of Dumblane, Canon of Holyrood. 1239. — A grand festival held in the Abbey of Holyrood, in honour of the Pope''s legate. 1296. — The Abbot of Holyrood did homage to Edward I. of England, for the lands of the said Abbey, in the coun-. ties of Stirling, Dumfries, Edinburgh, and Berwick. " Ab- bas de Sanctse Crucis, vice comitatibus de Strivilene, Dum- fres, Edenbourge, Berwicke,'^ &c. Rot, Scot, e, ri m. 11 and 10. 1355. — Henry, Abbot of Holyrood, chosen Bishop of Candida Casa, Chart of Dunfermline. Consecrated by the Archbishop of York ; is one of those chosen in the grand disputes between Bruce and Baliol, 1262. Rymer'^s Foed, tom. 11, p. 555. 1381. — The famous John, Duke of Lancaster, died an inmate of this Monastery, 56 1440. — John, Bishop elect of Galloway, became an in- mate of Holyrood Abbey, and was buried within its clois- ters in 14)48. 145^. — Archibaldus Crafurd, Abbot of Holyrood, trea- surer to James III., repaired the north side of the abbey, and built the flying buttresses with which it was adorned. Died in 1483. Robert Ballantyne, Abbot of Holyroodhouse, who, with consent of the abbot of St Andrew's, built the chapel of St Ninian in North Leith, 1492. 1500. — Robert Ballantyne, Abbot of Holyrood, founded an hospital at St Leonards. 1515. — John, Abbot of Holyrood, confirms a charter to the church of Restalrig. 1546. — Robert, Abbot of Holyrood, presented Prebend to the church of St Mary's in the Field. 1570. — Adam Bothwell, Abbot and Commendator of Holyrood. He was the son of Mr Francis Bothwell, one of the Senators of the College of Justice, and born A. D. 1532. His mother was Janet Richardson, daughter and co-heiress of Patrick Richardson of Meldrumsheugh, bur- gess of Edinburgh. He was preferred to the see of Ork- ney, by Queen Mary, on 8th October 1562, after he had been duly elected by the Chapter. He was one of the four Bishops who embraced the reformed religion ; but it does not appear that he exercised any ecclesiastical jurisdiction under that government. Bishop Bothwell was the person who performed the ceremony of marriage between Queen Mary and the Earl of Bothwell ; and notwithstanding his having urged that junction, was one of those who persecut- ed that beautiful and unfortunate Princess*. He was af- * The marriage was made at the Palace in Holyroodhouse^ after ser- mon, by Ada7n Bothwell^ Bishop of Orkney^ in the great haU where the council used to sit, according to the order of the reformed religion, and not in the Chapel, at the Mass, as was the King's marriage.'* Scott's Memoirs of Sir James Melvil, 8vo. p. 16'>, Edin. 1735. 57 terwards one of the Judges of the Court of Session, to which he was nominated two years after his elevation to the Episcopal dignity ; and having the property of the Bi- shoprick of Orkney in his own person, he excambed the greater part of it for the Abbey in 1570 with Robert Ste- wart, the Queen's natural brother, after which he was designed Bishop of Orkney and Abbot of Holyroodhouse. He died on the 23d August 1593, in the 67th year of his age, and was interred near to the great altar of this church, of which he had been Abbot and Commendator for upwards of twenty years *. The said Robert Stewart, &c. &c. 1516. — John Bothwell, Commendator of Holyrood, and son of Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney. He was ad- vanced to the peerage of Scotland, 20th December 1607? by the title of Lord Holyroodhouse. It is needless to offer any conjectural account of those parts of the Church and Abbey which are now destroyed, farther than what we have already given. They are de~ lineated, however, on the plan that accompanies the des- cription of the Sanctuary, which the reader may consult ; and reference to the accompanying views, with a short ex- planation of each, may suffice for any additional description of the ruins. Plate 3d represents the external appearance which the western fi'ont exhibits at the present time. Here is seen the principal entrance, consisting of a highly pointed arch, which is now built up ; and, over it, two large windows which lighted the RoodAoit and organ gallery. The co- lumns and moulding of the door-piece are elegantly de- signed, and executed in a bold style, with sculpture orna- * Keith's Catalogue. A. Stewart's MS. Hist. Wood's Peer. vol. 1. p. 729. 58 ments, resembling dogs, serpents, cherubs, and various kindn of foliage. Immediately above this door, and upon the wall which forms the division of the said two windows, a small square tablet projects, with the following inscription :— HE SHALL BUILD AISE HOUSE FOR MY NAME, AND I WILL STABLISH THE THKONE OF HIS KINGDOM FOR EVER. BASILICAM HANC SEMI RUTAM, CAROLUS REX OPTIMUS INSTAURAVIT, ANNO DONI CID. IDC. XXXIII. And at the top, are the fragments of the Scottish Arms, which had been cut in wood, and affixed to the wall ; the centre piece of which, containing a shield, enclosing a lion rampant, and surmounted by a crown, is now preserved in the interior of the Chapel, as before stated. To the left is shown the north-west tower of the Con- ventual Church, latterly used as a vestry, and in which were hung the bells of the Royal Chapel It rose to the height of the adjacent buildings, and was continued in the form of an ogee turret, resembling the upper part of the * One of these bells is said to have been hung in theTron Kirk steeple; another in St Cuthbert's Old Chapel of Ease ; and a third in one of the turrets of St PauPg, York Place, Edinburgh, having been granted to the Episcopalian Congregation of that Chapel, when their former place of worship in the Cowgate was built, 1771-4. The first of these bells was melted to pieces by the great fire in 1824, which reduced the steeple of the Tron church to ruins, and a most elegant spire has since been sub- stituted. 59 old steeple of the Tron Church, or College steeple of ' Glasgow. The lower part of this tower is ornamented with arcades corresponding to the door piece. The win- dows, which appear to be modernized, are placed in the upper story ; and each of them is divided by a plain cen tral mullion, and quatrefoil, in the centre above it. This tower was covered in with a leaden roof in 1816. Plate 4^A, A correct view of the western or grand en- trance to the Chapel Royal, now built up, Plate 5th exhibits the north prospect of the Chapel ; in which are seen the upright buttress of Abbot Crawford, with the small windows, slightly pointed in the top, that lighted the north aisle ; the north door, that enters from what was formerly the church-yard, also a part of the second row of inside arches, are seen over-topping the wall, with a part of the east end, and the large altar window of the Chapel- Royal. At the left extremity of the Chapel, in this view, is seen the small fragment of the north transept ; and be- yond this, to the left, Mylne's monument, a part of Arthur s Seat, with the ruins of St Anthony's Chapel and Hermi- tage, in the distance. Plate 6th contains an inside view of the Chapel, looking towards the east. On the right, the remaining row of pillars, from which spring large equilateral pointed arches, with the second row of smaller pillars and arches, that formed the front of the first gallery. Each of these upper arches is divided by a slender pillar, or mullion, into two smaller arches, with trefoil heads, and an open quatrefoil in the centre above each. Through the under arches, the groining of the south aisle is discerned, with three of the windows that looked into the cloister ; also the arcade of small pillars and pointed arches along the basement story of the south aisle. The Roxburgh and Royal burial vaults appear immediately under the two eastmost of the large arches. The large east window is also very con- 60 spicuous, occupying the western and only remaining one of the four large arches, on which the lantern tower in the centre of the Church had rested, and pointing out by its sweep, the curvature of the original vaulting of the middle aisle. This window is of modern execution, and sub- sequent~to the destruction of the choir and transept. It pro- bably was first formed in the reign of James VI. or Charles I., by the latter of whom, according to the inscription above the west door, the church appears to have undergone some considerable repairs, in the year 1633. This east window, as represented in the plate, was restored in the year 1816, with the original mullions that had lain scattered around, ever since it yielded to a violent storm in 1795. To the left of this large window is seen an arch, now built up, that divided the transept from the east end of the north aisle of the nave. In the under part of this arch there appears, both without and within the building, some screen work in stone, containing a door of communication with the tran- septs, probably the entrance to a Chantry or private Chapel. This screen work is shown in the plate. In the foreground appear the two fragments of the northern row of pillars. And on the upper part of the east wall, at the sides of the large window, are seen the marks of the stone walls and galleries that fell in with the roof in I768. Plate ^th is an inside view of the Church, looking west- ward ; in which appear, to the left, five of the remaining large arches. In the centre, the western entrance, with the two windows of the Rood-\o% and the small door of the stair-case that leads to it. On the right, the inside of the north wall, with several of the pillars attached to it, that corresponded to the northern row of clustered columns, which are now gone : Also three of the small Norman win- dows, altered into the pointed style of the interior of the building ; and under them, along the basement of the wall, the intersecting arcade of small pillars and arches be- 61 foi*e mentioned ; with a part of Bishop Wisharfs monu- ment, on the right, and several of the flat tomb-stones along the floor of the north aisle. The two fragments of the north row of columns occupy the foreground, while the top of the north-west tower, and the pinnacles of several of the north- ern buttresses are seen over-topping the ruined walls. Plate 8th^ Ground plan of the Chapel Royal, with the different places of burial, correctly marked. Plate 9th, Lord Belhaven'^s monument, and two antique and remarkable grave stones, — referred to in the list of mo- numents, &c. Plate 10th, Porch of Holyrood from the last taken down 1755, which at one time formed the defence of the Palace, and the residence of the Warder or Keeper. The dimensions of this splendid ruin are as follows : Feet. In, Length within walls, - - 127 Breadth within walls, - - 49 4 of the middle aisle, - - 25 north aisle, - - 13 south aisle, - - 13 Height of the east end wall, to the top of the Fleurs-de-lis, - - . 70 Length of the great east window, - 36 Breadth of it, - - - 19 9 Width of the original arch in which it is placed, 21 9 Height of the point of the arch, being the origi- nal height of the inner vaulting, about 60 Height of the columns, - - 28 Girth of each, - - - 16 8 Width of the arches, - - 10 Height of the side walls, - - 28 west end wall, - 59 arch over west entrance, (inside) 22 4 02 Feet. In, Width of the west door, - - 9 6 Height of the north-west square tower, 52 Breadth of it, outside, - (square) 23 inside, - (square) 15 6 Width of the windows in the N, and S. aisles, 2 11 Except the two eastmost in the south wall next the cloister, one of which is » 4 And the other, - - - 4 7 Width of the north side door, - 6 4 Depth of piers of buttresses in the cloiste^r, 6 6 Breadth of these piers, - - 4 3 Width of the walk in the cloister, - 10 1 MONUMENTS, &c. One of the entrances to these interesting ruins is by a pri- vate door in the N. E. corner of the Quadrangle of the Pa- lace. In the middle of the passage leading from hence to the interior of the Abbey, is shown a flat square stone, un- der which the unfortunate Rizzio is said to have been bu- ried. This stone bears every mark of a sepulchral monu- ment; a shield, with Saxon characters rudely sculptured around it, may be faintly traced ; but whether relating to Rizzio is rather a matter of conjecture *. Proceeding thence along the west end of the Church, the first monument we meet with is a plain slab elevated upon four other stones in the form of a chest, and denominated in Wales, Kist-vaens^ and in the south of Scotland Troughs^ • David Rizzio was a native of Turin, a town in the north of Italy. He came here with the Ambassador from Savoy, and thus got introduced to the Scottish Court. He was employed by Queen Mary to sing bass ; and having ingratiated himself into her favour by his almost enchanting musical powers, was, when the French secretary retired to France, ap' pointed to fill his place.— W. S, 63 from their resemblance to the figure of that vessel. This altar tomb, ornamented with the greatest simplicity, serves to point out the spot where repose the ashes of the Right Honourable Lord and Lady Reay ; and is thus inscribed : Under this stone, Are laid the remains of The late Right Honourable George Lord Reay, And Elizabeth Fairley his wife, In the grave thus undivided, As in life they were united, In that Divine bond Of Christian Faith and Love, Which ennobled their earthly affection. By elevating each view and desire, In one undeviating course, Towards another and a better world. George Lord Reay died 27th February I768, Aged 34. Elizabeth Lady Reay died 10th November 1800, Aged 61. This stone is Inscribed, January 1810, In token of grateful respect and affection, By their Daughters, The Honourable Mrs H. Fullerton, And the Honourable Georgina M'Kay. A few yards further, in the same direction, is the vestry, within the north-west, and the only remaining tower of the Church. Here is placed the magnificent sepulchre of Ro- bert Viscount Belhaven. " Among the monuments,'**' says Pennant, when describ- ing the Savoy Chapel, in his survey of London, " that in the chancel to the memory of the wife of Sir Robert Doug- las, Lord Belhaven, merits particular notice. The lady, who died A. D. 1612, is but a secondary figure^ and placed 64 kneeling behind her husband, dressed in a vast distended hood. Before her is his Lordship, in an easy attitude, re- clined, and resting on his right arm, the other hand on his sword. He is represented in armour, with a robe over it. On his head is a fillet, with a bead round the edge ; a motto on his arms, ' Lock sicker!' The sculpture is very similar to that in Holyrood Abbey, and there is great merit in the figure Engravings of these effigies may be seen in Pin- kerton's ' Iconagraphia Scotica! The epitaph upon her ladyship's monument, in the most hyperbolical strain of eulogy, has been printed in the 2d vol. of the new edition of Stow's Survey, and Wood's edition of the Peerage. Lord Belhaven was page of honour to Henry Prince of Wales ; and on the death of that lamented prince was ap- pointed gentleman of the bed-chamber to James VI. and afterwards to Charles I. and was also sworn of the most honourable privy council to his Majesty. A characteristic anecdote is related of his lordship by Bishop Burnet, on the authority of Sir Archibald Primrose. " When the Earl of Nithsdale came down to Scotland for the redemption of church-land and tithes, those who were principally concerned agreed, that if nothing could make him desist, they would fall upon him and his party, and put them to death. Lord Belhaven, who was blind^ desired to be placed by one of the party, of whom he might make sure. Accordingly he was seated next to the Earl of Dumfries, whom he held fast all the time of the meeting. Being asked what he meant, he replied, that ever since the blindness came on him he was always afraid of falling, and clung fast to him that was nearest to him. In the other hand he grasped a dagger, with which he intended to have stabbed the Earl had any disorder taken place." His lord- * Pennant's Lon. p. 202. The New View of Lon, p. 11, 402. Stow's Lon. V, II, 108. Wood's Peerage, Vol. I. &c. 65 ship married Nicholas, eldest daughter of Sir Robert Mo- ray of Abercairney, by Catherine, daughter of Sir William Murray of TuUibardine, and sister to Annabella Countess of Mar*. She died A. D. 1612, of her first child, after being eighteen months married ; and both were entombed in a premature grave in the Savoy Chapel, London. His lordship died at Edinburgh, January 24. 1 639, in the 66th year of his age, and was interred with great ceremony in Holyrood Abbey, where his nephews. Sir Archibald and Sir Robert Douglasses, placed this splendid monument, to perpetuate his virtues as a man, and his steadiness as a pa- triot. Upon an altar tomb (as the accompanying plate repre- sents. No. 9.) is placed his Lordship's statue in a recumbent posture : the right arm rests upon a cushion which seems to yield to the pressure, the left hand grasps the pommel of his sword, which hangs negligently down towards his feet. He is arrayed in his robes of state, and the flowing- folds of the drapery has the ease and grace of the finest Italian statuaries. Plis head is encircled with a Viscount'^s Coronet, and the whole figure certainly vies with the most finished piece of sculpture in Westminster Abbey. This stately monument is of Parian marble, brought from Italy. The columns and pediment that form the recess in which the statue is placed, are of a fancy order ; the columns flut- ed, and the pediment open, in which is a shield, charged with the armorial bearings of his gallant ancestors, viz. A heart crowned imperially^ gules ; three stars of Jive points ^ argent; three piles issuing from the chief gules ; within a double tressure flowered, and counter flowered. The shield is surmounted by a Helmet sable^ supported on the dexter side by a naked Savage, wreathed and girdled with laurel, holding in his right hand a baton proper. On the * Vide Notes to Lady Mary Stewart, &c. 66 sinister side by a lion, langued and rampant, proper. Motto, Toujours sans tache:' The Marshalling of these arms shows his Lordship's near relation to the Douglasses, Earls of Morton. Within the arched recess is placed the following classical inscription. On the one side, — D. O. M. Quod reliquum apud nos est hie conditur Roberti vicecomitis de Belhaven, Baronis de Spot, etc. — Regi Carolo, a Secretioribus Conciliis, et inter familiares intimi, quippe qui et prius Henrico Valli^ gratissim. ejusq. Stabulis proefect. erat. lUo vero fatis cedente, fratri Carolo nunc rerum potito, in quaesturam domus adscitus est, singulari favoris gradu acceptus, re et honoribus auctus. In juventute NicoLiE MoRAviiE, Abcrcamiae Comarcho natoe, ad octodecim non amplius Menses unicae uxoris in puerperio simul cum foetu extinctae lectissimo consortio, aulico strepitu (ut morum illico et malorum temporum pertaesus) sub- trahens, in patriam reversus est. Archibaldum et Robertum Douglasios, Equites auratos, primaevi fratris filios, terris et bonis praeter quae testamento legavit, aequa lance divisis, haeredes Scripsit ; qui memoriae ejus, gratitudinis suae Pignus, H. M. P. C. 67 On the other side^ — Ingenium, quod Uteris cultura non implevit sagacitate natura Supplevit ; indolis bonitate et candore nulli cessit. Facile succendi, at, dum loquimur, facilius deferveseere : ei in moribus, quod seque ab omnibus vix acciperetur, unicum erat. Fide in Regem, Pietate in patriam, Officiis in Amicos, Charitate in Egenos, nulli secundus ; cui in prosperis modus et comitas, in adversis Constantia et Magna- nimitas, ad supremum usque diem invaluere. Obiit Edinburgi prid. Idus Januarii, Anno ab incamatione Messi.^ Supra CIq. IoCXXXIX. ^tatis vero ultra Clymatericum magnum, Tertio. Tbanslated. Here are interred the remains of Robert Lord Viscount Belhaven, Baron of Spot, &c. Councillor to King Charles, and most intimately in favour with him ; because formerly he had been most dear to Henry Prince of Wales, and mas- ter of his horse. But he being dead, and Charles his bro- ther now reigning, he was made Chamberlain to the King's household, and entertained with a singular degree of favour, and advanced to great honours and wealth. In his youth he enjoyed the sweet society of Nicholas Murray, daughter to the Baron of Abercairney, his only wife ; who lived with 68 him not above 18 months, and died in child-bed, with her child. When grievous old age came upon him, (as weary of bad times and customs,) withdrawing himself from the noise of the court, he returned to his country. He nomi- nated Sir Archibald and Sir Robert Douglasses, baronets, sons to his eldest brother, to be heirs, dividing equally amongst them all his lands and goods, except some legacies ; and they erected this monument to his memory, as a token of their gratitude. Nature supplied in him, by sagacity, what his mind want- ed of education. He was inferior to none in a good capa- city and candour. He would soon be angry, but was as soon calmed : this is one thing he had in his life, which scarcely could be alike acceptable to all. For loyalty to- wards his prince, love to his country, kindness to his rela- tions, and charity to the poor, he was singular. In prospe- rity he was meek and moderate, in adversity his constancy and magnanimity prevailed to his very end. He died at Edinburgh the 12th day of January, and from the incarna- tion of the Messiah 1639^ and of his age 63, being the third year above his great climacteric. Proceeding along the north aisle of the church, over a frag- mental pavement still rich in Saxon characters and armorial bearings, though now much dilapidated, we meet with the tombs of those who had formerly been deposited within its consecrated walls. The first, a little from the vestry door, is supposed to have belonged to Sir George Sterline of Keir. The following inscription was perfect in the time of Mon- teith, who has copied it into his " Theatre of Mortality though little, or almost none of it, can now be made out. D. O. M. Here lyeth Dam Margaret Ross^ daughter to James Lord Ross ; and Dam Margaret Scot^ daughter to Walter Lord Buccleughj and sister to Walter Scot Earl of Btic^ 69 cleugh. She was married to Sir George Sterline of Keir, knightj and chief of his name ; and having lived a pattern and paragon for piety, and debonairitie, beyond her sex and age, when she had accomplished 17 years, she was called from this transitory life to that eternal, 10th March MDCXXXIII. She left behind her only one daughter, Margaret, who in her pure innocency soon followed her mother, the 11th day of May thereafter, when she had been 12 months shown to this world, and here lyeth near unto her interred. Z>. Georgius Sterline de Keir, eques auratus ; familise princeps, conjugi dulcissimae poni curavit, MDCXXXIII. At each corner below, fiv^ roses, two and two, and one in the centre with a scroll above, bearing over each com- partment the following words : " Mors scientibus arquat!''^ And below is an inscription stone farther east : Heir lyis an honourable voman callit Margaret Erskin, Lady Alerdes and Dame, xvii Jvly 1599. On a neat monument near the two remaining pillars on the north side, the following is inscribed upon an elliptical marble tablet, inserted in the stone : — Sacred To the Memory of The Right Honourable Eleanora Dowager Lady Saltoun, widow of George Lord Saltoun, Who died on the 13th, And was interred here On the 18th day of September 1800, In the 70th year of her age. Next the wall, betwixt the pillars, on a plain stone, lying 70 on the ground, placed over the remains of the Earl of Sel- kirk, there is inscribed as follows : — Dunbar Douglas, Earl of Selkirk, Born 1st December 1722, Died 24th May 1799. Also, The Lady Isabella Margaret Douglas, His Eldest Daughter, Died on the 6th September 1830, Aged 70 years. Lying on the south of the above : — Here lyis ane Honest Man, Robert Votherspone, burgis and deacon of ye Hammermen in Canogait. R. V. 1520. A little to the east of the above monuments, the following inscription appears : — Under this stone lye the remains of The Honourable John Maule, Esq. Thirty -two years one of the Barons of Exchequer, Scotland. Died the 2d of July I78I, Aged 75 years. Still farther east : — To the memory of John Woodford, Esq. Late Lieutenant Colonel Of the North Fencibles, or Gordon Highlanders, Who died the 18th April 1800. Aged years. 71 On a stone lying beside the former, but towards the south : — The Right Honourable Lady Elizabeth Wemyss, Widow of the late Honourable James Wemyss of Wemyss, And sister to William, late Earl of Sutherland, Died on the 24th January 1803, Aged 64 years. The intermediate stones seem to have been placed over the graves of the more opulent citizens of the burgh of Ca- nongate, who were formerly interred here during the time of Episcopacy in Scotland. Between the two remaining columns in this direction, we meet with the tombstone of James Douglas, Lord Carlisle and Tortherwald, and his spouse Agnes Carlyle, heiress of that ilk The inscription goes round the border of the stone first, then proceeds regularly across the body of it in Roman characters, and may be read as follows : See Plate 9. " Heir lyis ye nobil and poten Lord, James Dovglas, " Lord of Cairlell, and Torthorall, vha married Daime " Elizabeth Cairlell, air and heritrix yalof ; vha vas slaine " in Edinburghe ye xiiii day of Ivly, in the zeier of God " 1608, vas slain in 48 ze. L. I. D. E. Cr His Lordship was killed in an affray on the streets of Edinburgh, July 14th, 1608, in the 48th year of his age. * The lineal descendant and representative of this once illustrious fa- mily, is Mr Carlyle, Advocate, Edinburgh. The domains are now in possession of the most noble the Marquis of Queensberry." Note by the Rev. Henry Duncan of Ruthwell, to the Description of the Ancient Town of Tortherwald. 72 Under the inscription is enchased upon an antique shield, the patent arms of the House of Douglas, quartered with those of the noble family of Carlisle and Tortherwald ; viz. beneath a chief charged with three pellets^ a saltier proper ; the crest resembled a rose, but which is undoubt- edly a star of the first order. A little to the north-east is erected a very handsome mo- nument to the memory of George Wishart, Bishop of the diocese of Edinburgh. He was descended from the family of Logie in Angus ; he was first ordained minister in North Leith, and deposed A. D. 1638, for refusing to take the Co- venant. Several correspondences having been detected be- tween him and the royalists, he was frequently plundered of all his goods, and reduced to the greatest hardships, being thrown prisoner into The Thieves'* Hole^ one of the most abominable cells of the old tolbooth of Edinburgh. On his delivery from this cruel persecution, he went beyond seas, and accompanied the gallant Marquis of Montrose, in qua- lity of his chaplain. After the fall of his illustrious patron, he was appointed chaplain to Elizabeth Queen of Bohemia, sister to Charles 1. with whom he came over into England, A. D. 1660, to visit her royal nephew, Charles 11. after his happy restoration. Shortly after this, Mr Wishart had the rectory of Newcastle-upon-Tyne conferred upon him, where he was greatly venerated for his unshaken fidelity. On the restoration of Episcopacy in Scotland, he was pre- ferred to the see of Edinburgh, into which he was conse- crated 1st June 1662, at St Andrews, where he continued till his death, A. D. I67I and was buried in this Abbey Church. This reverend prelate was a person of a very pious and benevolent disposition ; and having been himself a prisoner. * Keith's Cat. 30. 73 is reported every day at dinner to have sent ofF the first mess, after blessing, to the prisoners. He wrote the History of the War in Scotland, under the conduct of the gallant Marquis of Montrose, in elegant La- tin, under the title of " J. (?. De rebus auspiciis serenissi- " mi et potentissimi Caroli, Dei Gratia Magnae Britanniae Regis, et cet. sub imperio illustrissimi Jacobi Montisro- " sarum Marchionis, Comitis de Kincardin, &c. supremi " Scotiae gubernatoris. Anno MDCXLIV. et duobus se- " quentibus, preclare gestis, commentarius. Interprete, " A. " Pars secunda, de ejusdem Marchionis rebus gestis, ab Anno MDCXLVII. and MDCL * " His arms are finely cut over the top of an arched recess ; viz. on a shield a Bishop*'s mitre, with a pastoral staff and cross of coral, saltier ways ; motto, " Pro Deo et Patria beneath is the following inscription : Hie recubat Celebris Doctor Sophocardius alter, Entheus ille So or Whitehorn, in Gallo- way, was contemporary with Allan, the Constable of Scot- land, A. D. 1189 *[•. He is styled by Fordun, "Johannes Galveise insula sublimatus est.**' He became a monk in the Abbey of Holyrood, A. D. 1206, and died A. D. 1209 J. David Fleming, Lord Biggar and Cumbernauld, having attended Prince J ames of Scotland to the Bass, in February * Vide York's Union of Honour, p. 9. Chart. Sanct. Cruc. + Chart, of Kelso. :;: Chron. Maelros. Monast. Angl. Scotochron. lib. ix. Keith's Catalogue. 85 1405, after seeing him safe on board the vessel that was to convey him to France^ was on his return home attacked and killed at Longherdmanstone, a few miles west from Edinburgh, by James Douglas of Balveny, afterwards seventh Earl of Douglas, and was interred in this Abbey Church, where was a splendid monument to his memory^ destroyed by the infuriated soldiery in the Cromwell usur- pation. His virtues and place of sepulture are thus narrated by the metrical Prior of Lochleven : — " Sence Davy Fleming of Cumbernald, " Lord, a Knycht baith stout and bald, " Trowit and livit wel with the Kyng, " This like gude and gentil Knychte, " That was baith manfu' leil and wychte " Wes cruely mangled in his blude, " And now is laid in Halyrude He granted an annual rent of 25 merks sterling, out of his lands at Biggar, to the monks of this Abbey, " pro sa- lute animi sempiterna.*" — Chart. Sanct. Crucis. John, Bishop elect of Galloway, became an inmate in this house. A, D, 1440, and was interred within its cloisters inl448t. Archibald Crawford, Abbot of Holyrood, and treasurer to James III. He spent the greatest part of his princely in- come in beautifying this stately church, though neither tomb nor inscription remain to testify to the world that such vir- tue did exist I . George Douglas, natural son of Archibald, Earl of Angus, was consecrated Bishop of Moray, A, D. 1573, and after * Wynton's Cronykill, II. 412. f Spot. Bat. of Bishop's Monast. Ang. X King's MSS. and Keith's Catalogue. 86 remaining 16 years in that see, he died, and was interred in the cloisters of Holyrood. Andrew Fairfowl, son of John Fairfowl of the town of Anstruther, was first chaplain to the Earl of Rothes, then Minister at North Leith, and afterwards at Dunse in Ber- wickshire. It is reported, that King Charles IT. having heard him preach different times, when he was in Scotland in 1650, was pleased, upon his restoration, to enquire after Mr Fairfowl, and accordingly preferred him to the see of Glasgow, 14th November 1661, where he was specially consecrated the ensuing year. These ecclesiastical honours he did not long enjoy, having sickened the very day of rid- ing the Parliament, in November 1663, and died a few days after. He was interred on the lltli of the same month in the Abbey Church of Holyroodhouse, universally regretted by all who had the pleasure of his acquaintance The Honourable Francis Hay, second son of Francis 8th Earl of Errol, by Lady Elizabeth Douglas, youngest daugh- ter of William Earl of Morton. He died March 14, 1632, aged 34, and lies buried in the nave of the Monastery of Holyroodhouse Also, The Honourable Lady Frances Hay, daughter of James 14th Earl of Errol, died at Edinburgh, 29th August 1806, in the 34th year of her age, and is here interred. Judge Smith, one of the English Commissioners during the Protectorate of the Duke of Somerset, died at Enderness (Inverness) October 6. His corpse was brought to Edin- burgh, and interred in the Abbey Church, 12th October 1657, by torch light i- " James Somerville of Drum,'" a Lieutenant-Colonel in the French and Venetian service, twentieth in descent from Schir Gualtier de Sommervil, " and tenth Lord of that * Spotiswood's Hist. Keith's Cat. and Gibson's Hist, of Glasgo^v. -|- Balf. Annals, 58. J Lament's Diary. 87 Ilk, died at Edinburgh, January 3, 1677? in the 82d year of his age, and was interred by his Ladye^s syde in the Abbey Church of Halyrudehouse, maist of the nobilitie and gentrie in towne being, with two hundred torches, present at the interrement John Patterson, Bishop of Galloway, who was translated to the diocese of Edinburgh, A, D, 1680, in which he con- tinued till the year 16875 when he was promoted to the archi-episcopal see of Glasgow, of which he was deprived at the Revolution, A, D, 1688. The king granted, 19th March 1685-6, to this bishop and his successors of Edin- burgh, the office of Chancellor of the University of that City. He died at Edinburgh, on Wednesday, December 8, I7O8, in the 76th year of his age, and was interred near the oriel window in the Abbey Church of Holyrood -f*. The Honourable Lord Robert Kerr, a plain gravestone. Lady Mary Kerr, daughter of Robert, first Marquis of Lothian, and Marchioness of Douglas, and mother of Archi- bald first Duke of Douglas. She died at Edinburgh, Jan. 22, 1736, in the 58th year of her age. Also in the same recess are deposited the remains of Lady J ane Douglas, daughter of the above. She was born at Douglas Castle, 17th March 1698, and died at Edinburgh, Nov. 22, 1753, in the 56th year of her age. She was mar- ried in 1746 to Sir John Stewart of GrandtuUy, to whom she bore Sholto Thomas Stewart, who died at Edinburgh, 14th May 1753, in the 5th year of his age, and reposes by the side of his illustrious parent. Sir William Hamilton of Whitelaw, one of the Senators of the College of Justice, and Lord Justice Clerk, was in- terred in this Abbey Church, A, Z>. 1750. — Also, * Memoire of the Sommervills, ii. 475. Public Arch. D. t Keith's Cat. Art. See of Edinburgh. 88 William Hamilton of Bangour, Esq. who died at Lyons, 25th March 1754 And, Lady Susan Hamilton, third daughter of John, Earl of Ruglen, Countess of Cassillis, who died at Barnton, Feb. 8, 1763, in the 64th year of her age. Honourable John, Lord Drummond ; who, on the death of his nephew in 1747? assumed the title of the Duke of Perth, He died at Edinburgh, 7th October 1756, and was interred in this Abbey Church. Henry David, tenth Earl of Buchan, died at Walcot, near Bath, Dec. 1, 1765, in the 58th year of his age, and was buried 21st December in this Abbey Church. Also his Lady, Agnes, daughter of Sir James Stewart of Good- trees ; and their eldest son David, Lord Cardross, who died at Edinburgh, 4th October 1747? in the 7th year of his age. On a neat marble Monument about 28 feet eastward from the north door of the Church, is the following inscrip- tion : In the Middle of this Chapel Lie the Remains of Euphemia, Widow of William Stewart, Esq. of Castle Stewart, in the shire of Wigton, Sixth daughter of Kenneth Lord Fortrose, Son of William fifth Earl of Seaforth. She died suddenly on the 14th February 181 7? in the 67th year of her age. " A soul prepared needs no delays^ The summons come^ the Saint obeys. Swift was her flighty and short the road ; She closed her eyes^ and saw her God^ * Campbeirs Hist. Poet. Scotl. v. I. p. 195. 89 WILLIAM, eldest son of the deceased, an officer in the Royal Engineers, Died in 1796, in the Island of St Domingo, in the 24th year of his age. JOHN,thesecondson,Capt.ofHisMajesty''s ShipSea-Horse, Died in 1811, in the 36th year of his age, and was buried in Westminster Abbey ; KENNETH, the youngest Son, An officer in the Royal Artillery, died in 1798, in the Island of St Vincent, in the 19th year of his age. A plain slab is also placed over the grave in the middle aisle, inscribed thus : — UNDERNEATH are interred the Remains of EUPHEMIA, Widow of William Stewart, Esq. of Castle Stewart, Who Died on the 14th February 1817? in the 67th year of her age. Near the above Monument, and within a few yards of the north door of the Chapel, is another very elegant mar- ble Monument also placed in the wall, with the following inscription : — Sacred to the Memory of The Right Honourable Lady Alvanley, Widow of the Right Honourable Lord Alvanley, Sometime Lord Chief Justice Of His Majesty''s Court of Common Pleas, Who departed this life On the 17th January 1825, Aged 67 years, And M^as buried near this spot. 90 She was the most excellent of Women, With the most elevated sentiments of piety. Severe to Herself, She was lenient to the faults of others. Charitable, generous, and self-denying. She died lamented by all who knew her. Her Children, To whom her loss is irreparable. Have erected this Tribute Of their lasting regret and affection To the best of Mothers. A neat flat tomb-stone near the centre of the Chapel co- vers the remains of the above Lady, with her simple initials, viz. " A. D. A." January I7. 1823. LIST of the principal Nobility and Gentry entombed in Holyrood Abbey, but who have no Monuments. John Lord Ballonden, - - - 2d Nov. I7O6. John Lord Lindores, - « - 17th Jan. — 06. James Carnegie, Earl of Finhaven, - 24th March — 07. Lady Helen Anstruther, of that ilk, ~ 22d April — 08. Hon. Thomas Hay, son to the Earl of Errol, 4th Jan. — 09- Earl of Dunmore, - - 12th May— 10, Lord Anstruther, - - 3d Feb. — IL Elizabeth, Countess of Crawford, - 26th Feb. — 11. Anne York, Lady Newark, - 28th Feb. — 13. DamelsobelM^Kenzie, Countess of Seaforth, 18th July — 15. Right Hon. Lord Kinnaird, - 3d April — 15. David Wemyss, Lord Elcho, - 11th Dec. — 15. James Douglas, Earl of Moretoun, 14th Dec. — 15. Lord Semple, - 4th August — 19. Sir Alex. Grant of that ilk, - 22d August— 19. The Right Hon. Sir Arch. Sinclair, ad- vocate. Sheriff of Edinburgh, - 24th August — 19. 91 Lady Margaret Baillie, - 24th June l^20, Lady Jane Muir, Countess of Glasgow, 14th Sept. — 24, Dame Elizabeth Lady Cardross, - 1st Feb. — 25. Lady Mary M'Kenzie, - - - 3d Feb.— 26, Lady Mary Drummond^ Countess of Ma- rischal, - - - 14th Mar.— 29. William, Lord Forbes, - - 28th June— 30. Robert Douglas, Earl of Morton, - 14th Dec— 30. Henry Maule, Earl of Panmure, - 25th June — 34. Lady Jane Hutchison, Countess of Ruglen, 16th Mar. — 34. James Lyon Bowes, Earl of Strathmore, i8th Jan. — 35. David Crawford, Esq. principal clerk of notaries in North Britain, - 28th Feb. — 36. Lady Henrietta Livingstone, - 26th May — 39 Lady Charlotte Cochrane, daughter to the Earl of Dundonald, - - 10th Feb.— 40. Lady Jane Maitland, - - 14th Feb. — 47. Lady Jane Mercer of Aldie, - 17th Dec. — 49. J. McDonald, Esq. of Glengarie, » 3d Sept.— 54. David Hay, Esq. of Leys, - 30th Mar.— 60. Lady Margaret Hamilton of Boldoun, 22d May — 60. Hon. Miss Ann Bothwell, daughter to Henry, Earl of Bothwell, - - 1st Nov.— 62. Right Hon. Countess of Cassillis, - 14th Feb. — 63, Lady Jane Maitland, - - 6th April — 66. Lady Catherine Wood, « - - 9th Oct.— 76. James Erskine, Esq. of Mar, Knt. Maris- schal of Scotland, - - 3d Mar. — 85. Lady Margaret Murray, daughter to Lord Viscount Stormont, and sister to the present Earl of Mansfield, - - 31st April — 85. David Stewart Moncrief, Esq. of Moredun, one of the Hon. the Barons of Excheq"^' 17th April — 90. Lady Jane Sinclair of Barrock, - 5th Dec. — 91 = Sir Alexander Hay of Park, - 4th Feb.~92. 92 Right Hon. Lady Frances Leslie, - 6th Oct. 1792. Right Hon. Countess of Cassillis, - 1st Jan. — 94. Sir William Gordon of Gordounstone, 5th Mar. — 95. Lady Frances Montgomery, - 26th Jan. — 99. Charles Hamilton, Esq. - 12th April 1800. Hon. Mrs Anstruther of Anstruther, 3d May — 14. John Craw, Esq. W. S. Bailie of Holy- roodhouse; a man highly esteemed, who discharged the office of bailie for a number of years, with distinguished approbation. Died 23d, and was in- terred within the Chapel Royal, 30th Mar. — 16. The Right Hon. Lord John Seymour, son of Webb, late Duke of Somerset. He resided at Edinburgh for several years, where he was much esteemed in the first literary circles. Died there on the 19th, and was buried in the north-east corner of the Chapel Royal, (His brother, Duke of Somerset, chief mourner,) - - 24th April — 1 9^ Leveson Douglas Stewart, Esq. R. N. third son of the late Hon. Admiral Keith Stewart of Glasserton, - 5th May — 19- John Anstruther, Esq. of Ardite, - 18th June — 19. Miss Charlotte Murray, in Earl of Dun- more's Ground, - - 24th July — 19. Dame Matilda Theresa Cochran Wishart, Lady of Sir Thomas Cochran, - 4th Sept. — 19 Mr Samuel J. Borthwick, in Earl of Sea- forth's ground, - - 29th Feb.— 20. Edmund Livingston, Esq. in Countess of ErroFs ground, - - 16th Mar. — 20. John Kerr, Esq. of Ryhope, County of Durham, . . - 22d Nov.— 20. 93 Right Hon. Lady Elizabeth Murray, daughter of William, Earl of Dun- more, - - . 30th Dec. 1820. Mrs Mary Sinclair Borthwick, widow of Col. John Borthwick, 71st regiment, 5th Jan. — 24. Hon. Mrs Campbell of Lochnell, daughter of the late Lord Saltoun, - 1st Mar. — 24. William Hay, son of E. W. A. D. Hay, Esq. 5th May— 25. Frances V. Hay, daughter of E. W. A. D. Hay, Esq. - - 2Gth April— 26. Right Hon. Catherine, Baroness Saltoun, 21st July — 26. Right Hon. Kenneth Eraser, daughter of the late Lord Saltoun, - ^th Dec. — 26. Right Hon. Lady Mary Seaforth, - 5th March— 29. Miss Katherine Sinclair of Barrack, - 8th May Lord Nairne, « - « July — 30. Right Hon. Lady Isabella Douglas, - 10th Sept. — 30. Miss Wilhelmina Sinclair, daughter of William Sinclair, Esq. of Friswick, ~ May 1831. On the north side of the Chapel, about an equal distance from either end, is the tomb-stone of Bartoulme Foliot, a Frenchman, who paved for the first time the streets of Edinburgh in the beginning of the 16th century. Behind the Chapel, and on the north wall of the choir, stands a small neat monument to the memory of Alexander Milne, King's architect for Scotland, dated 20th Feb. 1643. In the Church-^yard of Holyrood there were formerly a few plain gravestones, which have been removed within these few years. Some of them are still lying within the Church. A few years ago, a part of the Arms of Scotland cut in stone, and supposed to have been originally placed above the grand entrance to the Palace, was discovered amongst G 94 some rubbish at the back of the Chapel, — it bears the ini- tials of James V. At the same time was found the entire arms of the Earl of Arran,* evidently of great antiquity, — these stones are now preserved in the Chapel Royal. Some years ago, a skull was found amongst the remains of what appears to have been a cloister, with a hole in the cranium and memento mori, in old faded characters over the brow. This monastic relic is now in the possession of Sir Patrick Walker. In laying out the garden on the north of the Chapel, an immense number of skulls and bones of ex- traordinary dimensions, — and in digging the foundation for the new railing, several skulls, &c. were discovered, with some coins of Charles I. and II. * Probably the same who figured during the monarchy of James VI. 95 PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE. HISTORICx\L ACCOUNT. The imaginary sanctity that was attached to monastic es- tablishments, during the dark ages of superstition, and the extensive and convenient accommodations they generally afforded, rendered them desirable as the occasional residen- ces of kings and their nobles. The large and opulent Abbey of Holyrood, soon after its foundation, became the frequent resort of the Court and Parliament, during the earlier reigns of the house of Stuart. It thereby appears to have gra- dually given rise to a distinct royal establishment. We have no direct information, however, when, or by whom, a Palace, separate from the Abbey, was first erected : and it is difficult to distinguish the early history of the one from the other. The historians of Edinburgh have indeed sup- posed James V. was the first who gave rise to the Palace, from his having, " in the spring of the year 1525, founded a fair palace in theAbhey of H olyroodhouse^ a7id three great tours till rest upon, when he pleased to come."* This building still remains, and forms the north-west part of the present Palace. An attentive consideration, however, of the following particulars will make it appear, at least, somewhat probable, that there was a royal residence here. * Pitscottie*s Chron. 96 distinct from the religious establishment^ previous to the days of James V. On the 8th March 1326-7, Robert Bruce held his four- teenth parliament within the church of Holyrood Abbey ; and Edward Baliol held his parliament in the same place in February 1333-4. In this Abbey Robert III. occasionally resided when he came to Edinburgh, and here granted the remission to Albany and Douglas, for his son Rothsay's death. James I. and his Queen also resided at Holyrood ; where, on the 16th Oct. 1430, she was delivered of male twins ; one of whom (James II.) succeeded his father, and was crowned here on the 25th March 1437- In June 1449, that Prince was married in this favoured place, to Mary of Gueldres. He was also buried here in August 1460. Holyrood was thus the scene of four of the princi- pal events in the personal history of James II. ; viz. his birth, coronation, marriage, and burial. James III. took up his abode here " while he gladdened Edinburgh with his presence,"' and "on the 13th of July 1469, was maryit in Holyroodhouse^ in great dignitie, with Margaret, the king's douchter of Norway, Dasie, Swasie, and Denmark.''* It is considered by some, that James IV. was the first Scottish king who built a palace distinct from the Abbey at Holyrood ; for in the accounts given by Young, the herald, of that king's marriage, at the age of thirty, to Margaret of England, in her 14th year, which took place at Holyrood Abbey, on the 7th August 1503, it is mentioned, that " af- ter all reverences doon at the church, in order as before, "|- * Old Chron. at the end of Wyntoun. •f It was reserved, however, for Dunbar, the old Scottish poet, to cele- brate these nuptials in a strain of versification, wherein he emulates the amatory effusions of James I. as well as the elegant tales of Chaucer : To see this court ; bot all were went away ; Then up I leyint, halflings in aifrey. 97 the king transported himself to the Pallais, through the cldstre^ holding allways the Quene by the body, and hys hed bare tyll he had brought her within her chammer.'*'' The same monarch also, on the 16th February 1505-6, ratified in Parliament his gift of 20 merks from the great customs of Edinburgh, for the maintenance of a chaplain to sing in the chapel, within his Palace of Holyrood^ and for his fee in keeping the Palace. * In 1506, the Palace appears to have sustained some injury by fire ; for on the 17th April that year, he granted a charter to the Earl of Huntly, in which he recited that the EarFs title-deeds had been lately consumed by fire, in his lodging within the Royal Palace.*!* Pitscottie and Leslie also inform us, that when J ames V. arrived from France, with Magdalene, his first con- sort, at Leith, on the 19th May 1537^ they immediately passed to the " Palace of Holyrood ; where she remained, until preparations were made for her triumphant entry into Edinburgh. Soon afterwards, she was conducted through the capital, attended by a magnificent procession, and de- monstrations of joy. But these were of short duration. Forty days saw her carried amid mournful lamentations to Holyrood Abbey.'' X During the inroad of the Earl of Hertford, in the mino- rity of Queen Mary, this Palace, with the Abbey, were burnt by the English army, as formerly noticed. They were both, however, soon repaired, || when the Palace be- Calt to my Muse, and for my subject chois, To sing the ryel Thrissil and the Rose." See Chalmers' Caledonia^ vol. II. notes of pp. 604-5 ; which also con- tain an account of the above mentioned marriage, taken from Lealand's Collection, IV. 290. * Pari. Rec. 523, and MSS. Donations, •j- Gordon's Hist, of Gordons, I. 408^ X See note, page 55. j| Arnot's Edinburgh, 253. 98 came a larger building than the present, and consisted of five courts. The outer, or western one, was considerably- larger than any of the others ; bounded on the east by the front of the Palace, on the north, by the King's garden wall, on the west, by the keeper'^s house, porter's lodge, and grand entrance, of which a fragment only is now standing. The second court occupied the same situation as the pre- sent Palace, and was surrounded with buildings. On the south there were two smaller courts, also surrounded with buildings. There was another towards the east, bounded on the north by the Chapel Royal ; on the west, by a line of buildings covering and occupying the same space with the present east front of the Palace ; on the south, by a row of buildings long since demolished ; and on the north, by a wall, which divided it from the large field denominated St Anne's Yards. This eastern court probably was the ori- ginal cloister of the Abbey, now an enclosed grass plot on the east side of the present Palace ; and there is some pro- bability, indeed, that the greater part of the former Palace consisted of the monastic dwellings, repaired and adapted for the royal residence ; which supposition will also account for the enlargement of the Palace, subsequent to the dissolu- tion of the Abbey at the Reformation. But what renders the ancient Palace of Holyrood dou- bly interesting, is the associations connected with the lovely but unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots. Upon her return to Scotland, on the 21st August 1561, she landed at Leith, where she remained a whole day, as the preparations for her reception at Holyrood were not completed, and partly on account of the inclemency of the weather. The multitude continued in the interval to collect at Leith, and on the road which at that period formed the only communication with the city of Edinburgh by Restal- rig. The different trades and incorporations of Edinburgh were drawn up in order, lining the way with their banners 99 and bands of music. Towards evening horses were brought for the Queen and her attendants. When Mary saw these, accustomed to the richly-caparisoned steeds of the Parisian tournaments, she was evidently struck with the vast in- feriority of their breeds, and the meanness of their trap- pings. As she passed along, she was every where greeted with the most enthusiastic cheers, and the involuntary homage which the beauty of her countenance, the elegance of her person, and the graceful dignity of her bearing, could not fail to inspire. Bonfires were lighted in all directions, and although illuminations were then but indifferently understood in Scot- land, something of that description is said to have mingled with other external marks of rejoicing. On her arrival at the palace, all the musicians of Edinburgh collected below her windows, and in strains of the most discordant music, con- tinued during the whole night to testify their joy at their Queen'*s return. The bagpipes sounded loudly in the Court, to the no small annoyance of Brantone, which made him pathetically exclaim, " He quelle musique ! et quel repos " pour sa nuit V * Mary arrived in Scotland in August, so did George IV. Both days were wet and unfavourable, which alike retarded their approach to the city. Mary was much delighted with her Palace of Holyrood, and probably would have carried her partiality to the end of her reign, had not the necessity of the times obliged her to reside for safety in some of her Royal Castles. At this period, however, Holyrood rang with the sounds of mirth and festivity. The park and gardens of Holy- rood witnessed many a chivalric exploit, which Mary in her enthusiasm had now revived. She made her nobles contend with each other at the exercise of riding the ring, * Jeb, Vol. II. p. 484. 100 and immense crowds frequently collected in the park, and on the sands of Leith, to witness their skill and dexterity on these occasions. Mary appeared on horseback at the head of her nobles, and by her royal presence excited the enthusiasm of the scene. We do not find, at this period of her life, that Mary in- dulged much in sedentary pursuits. Archery was one of her favourite out-door pastimes in the gardens of Holy- rood ; she was also, like her Royal predecessors, fond of hunting and hawking. She kept a small band of musicians, generally about 12 in number, but the organs at Stirling and Holyrood were the only two in the kingdom, the others having fallen a prey to the fury of the reformers. The Palace of Holyrood formed the chief residence of the Queen and her husband Henry Darnley, after their marriage, which took place in the adjoining Abbey church on the 29th July 1565, at five o'clock in the morning. It was in this Palace that John Knox the Reformer had a conference with the Queen. The Palace is also memorable, as the scene of the atro- cious murder of David Rizzio, Secretary to this Queen, on the 9th March 1566. The following account of this transaction, may not be unimportant to those who are not already acquainted with the circumstances attending this deed of blood. " Upon Saturday, near unto 8 of the clock, the king conveyeth himself, the Lord Ruthven, * George Douglas, and two others, through his own chamber by the privy stayers up to the Queen's chamber ; going to which there is a cabinet about 12 feet square, in the same a little low reposing bed, and a table at which there were sitting at the supper the * Ruthven was in fuU armour, the weight of which he could scarcely support, having risen from a sick-bed to perpetrate murder. 101 Queen, the Lady Argyll, and David, with his cap upon his head." * " These Lords, and the King with them, rushed together into the Queen'^s roome; assaulted the fellow with their naked swords, as he tasted meat coming from the Queen^s table at the cupboard, before hir face, being great with child, trembling with fear, and setting a pistol to her breast ; and pulling the wretch out of hir hands, (who gript fast unto her,) violentlie into the utter chamber, he all the tyme crying most pitifullie to the Queene, Justicia, justicia, Madame ! save ma vie ! save ma vie and there most cruellie without pitie killed him, shooting (pushing) the Queene into an upper parlour.'"* -j* Rizzio had previously struggled for a considerable time with the iron-hearted Ruthven, in the embrasure of the win- dow, and it is supposed that he received his first wound, in presence of the Queen ; and before he could be dragged through the next apartment, he was stabbed with fifty-six wounds. Mary's person was held in durance for two days after the murder, but she at length escaped, and rode off to Dun- bar, no doubt apprehending fresh violence. At the time of Rizzio's murder a splendid badge set in precious stones, was amissing. The only relic of this un- fortunate man to be seen, is a walking cane, ornamented with ivory, with his name in old characters, which is pre- served by the Society of Antiquaries here. J On the 15th of May ISGy? the hall of this Palace was the scene of the same Queen's unfortunate union with J ames, Earl of Bothwell. § They soon, however, abandoned Holy- * Letter from the Earl of Bedford, to the privy council of England. -|- Anderson's History of Scotland, M. S. Chalmers' Edinburgh, p. 158. J When surveying the exquisite collection of the Antiquarian Society, we also saw a pair of gloves which belonged to the hapless Mary. § See Note to p. 36, 102 roodhouse, in consequence of a threatened seizure of their persons ; fled from it to Bothwell Castle, and thence to the Castle of Dunbar ; Mary following the Earl disguised in man's apparel by Blackcastle to Dunbar. * After being brought back to her own Palace, from the unfortunate af- fair at Carberry Hill, she was removed, on the 15th of the same month, to Lochleven Castle, as a prisoner for life ; where, soon afterwards, in compliance with the demands of her rebellious nobles, she resigned the Crown into their hands, in favour of her infant son James VI. The rest of her life was one continued series of imprisonment and pri- vation, during which period she behaved with wonderful magnanimity, -f- After Mary'^s removal from Holyroodhouse, the articles of value belonging to her were seized by the nobles, and her plate ordered to be coined, for answering their pecuniary demands. Some trifling alterations and repairs were made on the Palace of Holyroodhouse, under the direction of Inigo Jones, about the time of James VI. 's return from Denmark with his Queen, who was solemnly crowned, on the 7th of May 1590, with the accustomed rites, in the Abbey Church. Holyroodhouse indeed appears to have been a favourite re- sidence of James VI. until his elevation to the English throne. It was here that his Queen was delivered of the * History of Queen Mary's Castles, by the author. •f- We have been induced to give the foUowing literary curiosity, it being an exact copy of Queen Mary's first attempt to write, in what was then term- ed the English language : ^' Master Knoiels, y haua har sum new from Scotland, y send zou to da the double of them, Y wreit to the Quin my gud sister, and pray zou to do the lyke conforme to that y spak zesternicht unto zou, and sut hasti ansur y refer all to zour discretion, and will lipne better in zour gud dalin for me nor y con persuad zou nemli in this langasg excus mi ivel wretein, for y newer used it afor, and am hasted ze schal si mi bel whiulk is opne it is sed Sater- day mi unfriends will be vth zou y sey nothing but trast well, and ze zend one to zour wilf zo may asur her schu wald a bin weilcome to a pur stranger 103 Prince Henry Frederick, on the 19th February 1594? and again, on the 19th August 1596, of the Princess Elizabeth, who was also baptized here on the 1st December follow- ing- After a splendid reception by the Magistrates and citi- zens of Edinburgh, Charles 1. was crowned in the Abbey Church of Holy rood, on the 18th of June 1633, with un- wonted ceremonies, and perhaps unexampled splendour. Great part of the Palace was destroyed by the soldiers of Cromwell ; after which it appears to have remained in a ruinous condition until the Restoration, when an order was issued by Charles II. for repairing it. In consequence of this mandate, the present magnificent fabric was designed by Sir William Bruce, a celebrated architect of that reign, and built by Robert Mylne, mason, A. D. I67I-8. It never was, however, the permanent residence of any Scot- tish Monarch. During the reign of James VII. who manifested an un- constitutional partiality to Roman Catholics, Holyroodhouse appears to have been destined by that bigotted prince as a nursery for superstition. Not satisfied with securing to his Popish subjects within the precincts of his Palace, the free exercise of their religion, at a time when the most li- mited degree of that religious toleration, now so liberally enjoyed by every British subject, was considered as a con- nivance at heresy, James most imprudently instituted a Popish College in the Abbey of Holyrood,*" and publish- ed rules for it on the 22d March 1688, inviting children to hua nocht bien aquainted with hir wil notch bi over bald to wreit bot for the acquantans betwix ous, y wil send zou little tokne to rember zou of the gud hop y hauu in zou ques ze send a met messager y wald wysh ze bestoud- ed it reder upon her nor ain uder, thus after my commendations y prey God hauu zou in his kipin. J Your asurede gud frind, " Marie R." 104 1 be there educated gratis, * He also appointed one Watson^-f* a Popish printer, who had availed himself of the protection of the Sanctuary, to be King's Printer in Holyroodhouse. This Watson also obtained a right from the Privy Council to print all the prognostications at Edinburgh, which ac- counts for several books bearing in their title pages to have been printed at that period in Holyroodhouse. On the 23d November 1686, the King's Yacht arrived from London at Leith with the altar, vestments, images, priests, and their appurtenances, for the celebration of Popish worship in the Royal Chapel. On St Andrew's day, (30th November,) the Chapel was consecrated by holy wa- ter, and a sermon by Wederington.j The effects of this imprudence soon became manifest ; for, in December 1688, the populace of Edinburgh meditated revenge ; and being joined by the Students of the University, proceeded to Holyroodhouse to accomplish their design upon the un- conscious structure. They were indeed opposed by the guard, who fired upon them, under the direction of Captain Wallace ; but having surmounted this obstacle, they forced the doors of the Chapel, and after destroying the ornamen- tal parts of the building, carried off the furniture to the Cross, where it was burned in zealous triumph. In the year 17^5, the young Chevalier Charles, during his residence in Edinburgh, took possession of the old apart- ments built by J ames V. ; while his army were encampe at Duddingstone. He returned to Edinburgh the day after the battle of Preston, and lived at Holyrood Palace from22d Sept. till 31st Oct. The prince, the morning before the * FountainhalPs Dec. 1. 502. Wodrow, II. Appendix, 142. •|- Father of James Watson, the Queen's printer, during the reign of Anne» Foiintainhall, II. 499—503. t Id. I. 430 and 432. 105 council met, had a levee of his officers, and other people who favoured his cause. When the council rose, which often sat very long, for his councillors frequently differed in opi- nion, and not unfrequently with Charles himself, the prince dined in public with his principal officers. After dinner, he rode out with his Life Guards, and usually went to Duddingstone, where his army lay. In the evening, he re- turned to the Palace, and received the ladies who came to his drawing room ; he then supped in public, and generally there was music at supper, and a ball afterwards.* A few weeks afterwards, his Grace the Duke of Cumberland, on his return from the victorious, but bloody field of CuUoden, occupied the same rooms, and the same bed, which is still pointed out by the keeper of Queen Mary^s apartments. Subsequent to this time, the Palace was much neglected for many years. About 40 years since, however, the Ho- nourable the Barons of Exchequer caused the whole build- ings of the Palace to undergo such repairs as appeared to be necessary at the time. And shortly afterwards, the Royal apartments afforded an asylum to the unfortunate exiles of the Royal Family of France, the Count CArtois, (late Charles X. King of France,) and his two Sons, the Dukes D'Angouleme and Berri, with many other of the French nobility. These illustrious strangers, after a resi- dence of several years in this Palace, left Scotland in 1799, expressing at the time a high sense of gratitude for the generous and respectful treatment they had experienced from the Magistrates and inhabitants of the city of Edin- burgh, and from the Scottish nobility and gentry.-]- Dur- * Home's Hist. Reb. p. 139. Memoirs of an officer in the army of Charles. -|- Before His Royal Highness left Holyroodhouse^ he addressed a letter to the Lord Provost and Magistrates of Edinburgh, of which a foUowing is a translation : Edinburgh f August 5, 1799. " Gentlemen, — Circumstances relative to the good of the service of the 106 ing his residence in Holyroodliouse, his Royal Highness had frequent levees, which were extremely brilliant, and attended by the nobility and the first characters in the coun- try. These tended in some degree to excite in the minds King my brother, making it requisite that I should leave this country, where, during my residence, I have constantly received the most distinguished marks of attention and regard, I should reproach myself were I to depart without expressing to its respective magistrates, and through them to the inhabitants at large, the grateful sense with which my heart is penetrated for the noble manner in which they have seconded the generous hospitality of his Britannic Majesty. I hope I shall one day have it in my power to make known in happier moments my feelings on this occasion, and express to you more fully the sentiments with which you have inspired me ; the sincere assurance of which, time only permits me to offer you at present. To the Lord Provost and Magistrates l/^- t» « . , ^. . „ . , }• (Signed) Charles Philip." of the City of Edinburgh.'' j ^ ^ Since his accession to the Throne of France, on the death of his brother Louis XVI II., he has fulfilled the promise here expressed, as appears from the following communication made to the Council early in the month of November 1826 : — The Lord Provost said, it gave him much pleasure to have the honour of making a communication to the Council, and through them to the public, from no less a personage than his Majesty, Charles X. King of France. Sir Patrick Walker, his Lordship stated, having been lately in Paris, had been commanded by his Majesty to attend him at St Cloud, on an early day ; when his Majesty was pleased to direct the conversation particularly to Scotland, and so completely to lay aside his kingly dignity a« to make him (Sir Patrick) almost to forget that he was in the presence of Royalty. — Nor had his Majesty forgotten Edinburgh ; for in the course of the conver- sation, he made many inquiries regarding its streets and squares, their exten- sion since the time of his residence in Edinburgh, and the other improve- ments which had taken place in the city generally ; — and in taking leave of Sir Patrick, had desired him to wait on the Lord Provost, and to assure him and the Magistrates and citizens in general, that he remembered with grati- tude the many kindnesses he had experienced during his long residence in Edinburgh, — that the recollection of them wonld never be effaced from his memory ; and that he would ever hear with delight of the prosperity of Edin- burgh and her citizens. "^This gratifying communication was duly appre.. 107 of the inhabitants a faint idea " of the days of other years,^' when the presence of its monarchs communicated splendour and animation to this ancient metropolis, inspiring it with a proud consciousness of the remote antiquity, and heredi- tary independence, of the Scottish throne. The circumstance, too, of the heir-apparent to one of the most powerful sovereigns in Europe, compelled to seek re- fuge in a remote corner of the British empire, afforded at once a striking example of the mutability of human gran- deur, — of the liberality that distinguishes the present race of Scotsmen, — and of the exalted generosity of the British nation ; which, triumphing over inveterate enmity, protect- ed and entertained with Royal munificence, the ill-fated remnants of a once powerful family, who had often pursued a policy highly inimical to the interests of Great Britain. Subsequent to their departure in 1799, several of these refugees again returned to Holyroodhouse ; and it is not many years since they finally left it for their native country. The year 1822 fomed a memorable epoch in the history of Holyroodhouse, when his late most gracious Majesty fulfilled his intention, signified the previous summer, of visiting the metropolis of his ancient Kingdom of Scot- land. Of this his Majesty's purpose, the Lord Provost was officially informed on the 18th of July, by a letter from Lord Viscount Melville, Privy Seal for Scotland; and the keeper of the Palace at the same time received in- structions to make the necessary preparations for his Ma- jesty's reception, and for holding his Cowts in this so long neglected abode of Royalty ; intimating that his Majesty might be expected about the 10th of August. ciated by the Council ; and his Lordship was requested to tender their ac- knowledgments to his Majesty in such manner as to him might seem best. On the occasion of the great fires in Edinburgh, his Majesty sent a very liberal sum for behoof of the unfortunate sufferers. 108 The apartments to be .occupied by his Majesty, both for the purposes of State, and his own private accommodation, were those situated on the southern side of the Square, in the second storey ; and included those formerly occupied by the late Sir Adam Gordon, while Commander of the For- ces in North Britain, and latterly by the Hon. Thomas Bowes, now Earl of Strathmore, and those occupied by the French Princes, during their abode in this country. The principal apartment of the latter, which had been used as a Guard-hall, was, by the removal of some partitions and other encumbrances, converted into the presence chamber, and was fitted up in a style of superior magnificence. The ceiling was painted of a light brown or fawn colour, and the walls covered with fine scarlet cloth, with rich gold mouldings round the room, and the windows hung with curtains of deep crimson, ornamented with golden tassels and fringes. At the west end was placed the throne, (that of her late Majesty Queen Charlotte, which was brought from Buckingham-house,) under a splendid canopy adorned with the royal arms, behind which appeared in large letters of gold, G. R. IV. At the other end of the room was placed a splendid mirror, and under it a rich gilded table, with a marble slab. The south wall had another mirror, and on each side of it the portraits of our late revered Monarch and his Queen ; all these have since been removed, and the room, which is now denominated " The Throne Room,*''' appears merely with the hangings, (a good deal stained from the effects of time,) and the throne^ enclosed within a brass rail. The room used as the Royal Closet, was the dining-room of the late Sir Adam Gordon, which underwent no altera- tions, the original furniture and decorations remaining in statu quo. From this apartment, which communicates through a small ante-chamber with the southern entrance, his Majesty left the Palace on his retiring to Dalkeith 109 House^ where he spent his leisure hours, and entered again by the same, on all his public days. On this occasion there was a temporary portico erected at a door, which formed a thoroughfare through the Palace, until a certain hour at night. This has since been completely shut up, and the entrance taken away. His late Majesty arrived at the Palace of Holyrood, on the 15th day of August 1822, where he held his Court during his residence in this country. It would be impossi- ble to do ample justice to the splendour and pageantry ; on this occasion, in fact, our limits will not permit. The flowers of Caledonian beauty were destined, for a short period, to view the splendour of a Court, and the Pa~ lace of the long neglected Holyrood was once more the proud receptacle of Knighthood and Chivalry. His Majesty visited the Palace twice privately ; on which occasions he inspected the whole of the apartments, parti- cularly the suite of Rooms commonly known by the name of Queen Mary's, which, by his express desire, had been kept in their original condition. He was also very care- ful in inquiring into the state of the building ; and finding that it required considerable repairs, more especially the eastern and south-eastern walls, he gave orders for these to be put in a proper state, for which a sum of money was granted out of the treasury, and the repairs being now car- ried into effect, add much to the elegant appearance and durability of the fabric. The occasional residence within the Palace of several noble families, particularly those of the Duke of Argyle, the Earls of Strathmore, Breadalbane, and Dunmore, who en- joy lodgings here by Royal grants, tended to preserve the buildings in a good condition, and in some measure to pre- vent that melancholy stillness which prevails in a large man- sion, when forsaken by its owners. That portion of the Palace which was built by James V. is allotted to the Duke H 110 of Hamilton as heritable keeper of the Palace, and has for some time past been the city residence of the family. The second arrival of the ex-King, and several of the Royal family of France, has rendered Holyrood still more gay and crowded ; and, we believe, not only the apart- ments formerly assigned to the Earl of Strathmore, a great portion of the Earl of Breadalbane^s, but every other part of this spacious edifice, (if we except those of the Dukes of Hamilton and Argyle,) is fully occupied. When this work was put to press, it was reported that the Earl of Breadalbane had relinquished the rest of his apartments in favour of the ex-King. The Duke de Bour- deaux at present possesses all the EarFs apartments, except- ing the dining and drawing rooms, in which the beautiful collection of pictures mentioned in the following description, are at present exhibited. If the report proves correct, strangers will in future be precluded the pleasure of viewing those paintings which have been so much and justly ad- mired. / 111 DESCRIPTION OF HOLYROODHOUSE. The present Palace is situated on the east side of a large area, which formed the western court of the old Palace, and is of a quadrangular form, with an open court in the centre, 94< feet square. The north, east, and south sides of this court are each three stories high, besides an attic or garret story. The west side is only two stories, with a flat roof and double balustrade. The low building contains the main entrance into the Palace, and connects two large cas- tellated square towers of four stories each. These towers have each three circular turrets at their exterior angles, rising from the ground to the battlements, above which they are finished with pinnacle roofs and gilt balls. The fourth angle of each great tower is concealed by the other parts of the buildings which surround the inner court, and unite with the eastern walls of these towers respectively. On a square compartment in the outside of the north-west turret of the northern great tower (already mentioned as the house built by James V.) is the following inscription, viz. " JAC. REX V. SCOTORUM.^' The southern great tower is of later construction, and mani- festly built to correspond with the northern one. The whole of this western front, including the two castellated towers, extends 230 feet ; but in consequence of these towers form- 112 ing two projecting wings to the modern Palace, which is in the Greek or Roman taste, it appears of a mixed archi- tecture. The entrance, as hefore mentioned, is in the cen- tre of this low building, and ornamented by four columns affixed to the wall, with a corresponding entablature ; over which is an open pediment, surmounted by an octagonal cupola containing a clock. This cupola is formed by eight small arches, and Corinthian pillars between them, which support a roof in the form of an Imperial Crown. Imme- diately over the door is the Royal Arms of Scotland exqui- sitely cut in stone. Those borne since the union with Eng- land, are placed in a large triangular pediment over the cen- tral division of the east side of the Inner Court. Passing through this west door, we enter a piazza which surrounds the Inner Court, and to which it presents on each side nine small arches, with fluted doric pilasters between them, and over them a corresponding entablature, which is continued round the building, having the Thistle, and the Scottish Crown, Sword, and Sceptre, placed alternately in the frieze. And though the interior elevation of the Court by the in- troduction of three orders, viz. the Ionic and Corinthian respectively over the Doric, has rendered the parts minutely small, yet the outlines being free of unnecessary projections and recesses, and the two upper rows of windows being large and plain, the whole exhibits an unusual correctness and simplicity. At the north-west angle, and towards the inside of the piazza, this inscription is cut into one of the stone piers of the arches, " FYN. BE. RO. MYLNE. MM. IVL. 1671-'' * Farther on, at the eastern extremity of the north side of the piazza, is a passage leading from the Palace into the Royal Chapel. Two scale stairs, or French flyars, are * i. e. founded by Robert Mylne, Master Mason, 1671. 113 placed at the north-east and south-east corner of the piazza, and lead to the upper floors of the building. At the south-west angle of the piazza, is a great hanging stair-case, about 24 feet square, which leads to the royal apartments. Eastward of this stair, at the middle of the south side, there is a passage through the buildings, which conducts from the piazza to the Park, * where the palace presents an extensive front towards the east of three stories, with 17 windows in each, divided from one another by pi- lasters of the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders, corres- ponding to those of the inner court ; and their respective entablatures being continued along the whole front, with- out a break, produce an agreeable effect. The roof is after the French fashion, high and concave. The north and south sides of the Palace contain nothing remarkable. A grant of L. 24,000 was in May 1824 made by his Ma- jesty for the repair of Holyrood Palace, and since that period the work of reformation has been proceeding under the tasteful direction of Mr Reid, King's Architect for Scotland. The ugly dead wall which surrounded part of the Pa- lace has been removed, and a splendid iron railing now sur- rounds the whole Palace, which not only imparts a dignity to this venerable structure, but also opens a view to the monastic ruins, which we have lately described. This rait ing alone cost about L. 75OOO. In giving some account of the internal accommodation of this Palace, we begin with the original dwelling-house built by James V. which enters from the north side of the piazza, and which, with a part of the west front, is appropriated as the residence of his Grace the Duke of Hamilton, the hereditary keeper of the Palace. A large scale stair, upon * This passage was shut up in consequence of the alterations mad for the Visit of George IV., and has not since been re-opened. 114 wiiich is a balustrade of ancient iron work bearing figures of Scots Thistles, conducts to a suite of rooms in the taste of the 16th century, rendered doubly interesting from their having been occupied by the unfortunate Queen Mary. After ascending two stories we enter a small dark cham- ber, which, from the ceiling entablature, is evidently por- tioned off from the next apartment by a wooden partition. It is here that a dark stain said to have been the blood of the unfortunate Rizzio, is pointed out by the house-keeper upon the floor ; the boards, however, are by far too modern to bear testimony to this traditionary absurdity. The next room is shoM^n as the presence chamber, but which now contains a bed, said to have been brought from another part of the Palace for the convenience of exhibition. This is stated to have been the bed whereon Prince Charles Edward Stuart slept in the memorable year 1745, * while part of his army lay encamped near Duddingston. A few months afterwards, his triumphant enemy the Duke of Cum- berland, returning from the field of CuUoden, took up his quarters in the Palace, and slept in the same bed. It has the appearance of great antiquity ; and being now in a very fragile condition, is encircled with a line of low screens to protect it from the touch of the inquisitive spectator. The presence chamber is pretty large, and must have been very spacious prior to the abridgement already noted. The roof is of oak, and beautifully carved into compartments, the angles of which are adorned with cyphers of the various Kings, Queens, and Princes of Scotland, in faded paint and gold. The walls of this room are covered with a variety of prints and pictures, some of which are good and very rare. In the embrasure of the north window are portraits of John, * The Prince slept also in a house at Duddingston, 200 yards from the remarkable Hawthorn tree. 115 Duke of Lauderdale, and his celebrated Duchess. Two large portraits are shewn by the house-keeper, as those of the two celebrated ladies, Jane Shore and Nell Gwin. The one stated as that of Jane Shore, I have been assured by an eminent artist, is a Madona. It is equally impro- bable that the other is the portrait of Nell Gwin, for Nell was fair haired. There is also a sopha lined with blue silk, and adorned with cyphers, which the keeper declares to be formed by the initials of Queen Mary and Henry Darnley, but which are in reality the initials of Charles I, and Henrietta Maria, his Queen. These apartments being last fitted up for the reception of that king, it is highly probable that much of what is shewn as relics of Queen Mary, must have referred to this period. In the fire-place is a grate of rude workmanship and great antiquity, com- posed of beat iron, and surmounted on the back with a rude Scots Thistle. There is one circumstance, however, which, even in the absence of every article described as apper- taining to Mary, must render this apartment highly in- teresting. It was in this room that Knox had an inter- view with the Queen. Here stood the stern Reformer inveighing against her errors, and not even sparing the tears of his Queen ; and it was in the adjoining anti-cham- ber that he told her indignant attendants how little he cared " for the pleasant face of a gentlewoman.*" This chamber has also, in all probability, been the scene of the Queen^s gay pastimes, the celebration of her marriage with Darn- ley. Perhaps in this very chamber the marriage of Sebas- tian took place, and these walls may have echoed the shrieks, and witnessed the horror, with which she received the awful intelligence of her husband's death. We will leave this room, and its melancholy associations, to visit the Queen's bed-chamber, which is next shown. This room, which is of smaller dimensions than the former, occupies the front of the tower, and has a window facing 116 the bottom of the Canongate. In this apartment stands the Queen's bed, which is of crimson damask, bordered with green silk fringes and chineel tassels. His late Majesty, in his visit to the Palace, expressed a high opinion -of the beauty of the work, which is said to be that of his unfor- tunate ancestress. This room is hung round with a piece of tapestry representing the story of Phaeton. The tapestry seems to have been either intended for another apartment, or injudiciously arranged to suit the various sides of the room. In this room is shewn a worked basket shaped like a platter, in which it is said that King James's clothes were kept when a child, — and the " Queen's dressing-box," which is flowered with silk, and now enclosed in a glass frame for preservation. This basket was found amongst some lumber in one of the garrets or attic rooms of the Palace, by the house-keeper about I7 years ago. The Queen's dressing-box is also of late introduction ; and Cham- bers is of opinion, that it is plainly spurious. * Locked up in this box is a picture, which the keeper introduces as a very rare and genuine miniature of Queen Mary ; this additional relic, we understand, is of her own collec- tion. But this is only one of the many spurious portraits of that Queen which have been palmed upon the credu- lous. A painter employed about the Palace some 25 years ago, having met with a good deal of kindness on the part of the former keeper, set to work and finished for her an indifferent likeness of Queen Mary, which she, with the utmost effrontery, gave out as original. Her daughter ultimately found a dupe, and sold a picture, which was not worth L. 2, for an enormous sum. There is, how- ever, in this room a very curious and interesting portrait of Queen Elizabeth, and evidently an original, — at all * Chambers' Walks in Edinburgh, p. 156. 117 events, it bears every appearance of being painted at that time. In allusion to Mary's eventful history, the hands have been painted embrued with blood. A room in the south-west turret entering from the bed- chamber, is pointed out as the Queen's dressing-room, but whether it was so or not, we cannot vouch. The turret at the right hand side of the bed-chamber, contains the small room, (about 10 feet square,) in which the Queen sat at supper with the Countess of Argyle, when Rizzio was torn from her side by his murderers, as we have before described, — ^the walls are now bare, except a few tattered remnants of silk hangings at the cornice. The whole appearance of this closet is exceedingly mean. The mantle-piece vulgar and unembellished, and the lumber it contains imparts to it an air of desolation. Close to the door of this room is a small opening in the wall, which leads to a passage by a trap-stair, communicating with the Chapel beneath ; so that the murderers of Rizzio must have traversed this sacred church without compunction or hesi- tation, to perform a deed of murder. This door was a secret one, being concealed by tapestry, fragments of which still hang over it. This tapestry may have been the same that was rudely brushed aside by the mailed hand of the iron-hearted Ruth- ven, or lifted to admit the stately form of Darnley. In this closet are shewn what the house-keeper calls Darnley's sword belt, and one of his boots, besides a helmet, breast-plate, back plate, gloves, and sleeve armour, also stated as having belonged to Darnley, — a large black In- dian reed is also shewn as the shaft of his spear. The sword belt and boots are in the fashion of Charles II.'s time ; and it is more probable that these have been left by some of CromwelFs soldiers, when they converted the Palace of Holyrood into a barracks. A portrait said to be that of 118 David Rizzio has been lately introduced into this apart- ment, but we entertain doubts of its authenticity. The appearance of these relics does not tend to recon- cile the assertion of them being the property of Darnley. The sleeve armour, for instance, could have only fitted a man with very short arms, and by no means assimilated to the tall and well-proportioned form of Henry Darnley ; and with a love for the marvellous, the house-keeper winds up this whole account by shewing a large block of marble, whereon she says Mary sat at her coronation ! This truly comfortless seat, (shame to our Antiquarians !) has never been taken notice of, and we must either blame that venera- ble body, or doubt the veracity of the Cicerone of the place. For her own sake we could have wished that she would have taken the hint, and spared us the necessity of giving an historical account of a stone which has all " its blushing honours thick upon it.'''' About 18 years ago, several of the Author's friends re- collect distinctly of a marble stone, precisely of the dimen- sions of this pretended relic. This stone was brought, prior to the birth of Lady Susan Hamilton in the Palace of Holy- rood, by one Meyer, a French cook, in the service of the Duke of Hamilton, to knead his pastry on, * — and so little was it respected that it was actually expelled the kitchen as too cumbersome, and placed outside of the Palace for a whole day. Whether it was re-admitted into the kitchen, the author knows not ; but, at all events, it was put out of the way, and it is only lately that it has made its appear- ance in the new and endearing character of Queen Mary's coronation seat ! The doors, surbasses, and the floors of these apartments, are evidently of an age posterior to that of Queen Mary. * The French bake all their pastry on stone- a temperament for their culinary operations. ; — ^judging wood of too warm 119 The greater part of the furniture, too, is of recent introduc- tion. So much for a candid account of the various articles shewn in Queen Mary's apartments. — Chambers, in his Guide to Edinburgh, while he elucidates many important and curious items, seems to have imbibed an ungenerous antipathy towards the house-keeper, originating no doubt in the palpable absurdities which, (unfortunately for her- self,) she persists in telling, and which, instead of enhancing the interest of the spectacle, is the means of cloying the mind of the enlightened and intelligent, and of disturbing those interesting reflections which a visit to the ancient Palace of Holyrood is calculated to inspire. The room under the presence chamber, which is used by the Duke of Hamilton's family as a dining-room, contains portraits of the following personages : — Queen Mary in the dress in which she is said to have been executed. The house-keeper asserts that it is original. This we beg leave to doubt. Dorothy, Countess of Sutherland, Waller's Sacheressa, a copy from Vandyke, represented as a Shepherdess. This the house-keeper asserts is a picture of Lady Cassillis, who, as a scandalous legend has it, ran off with Johnie Faa. Cardinal Beaton. Chambers is of opinion, that this por- trait is that of a Clergyman about the reign of Charles I. It is, however, copied and engraved in Pennant's Tour, as that of Cardinal Beaton. A stern half length of John Knox writing. There is an engraving of this also in Pinkerton's Scottish Gallery. A very good portrait of Charles I. and some family pic- tures of the Hamiltons, are also here. In the adjoining room under the Queen's bed-chamber, is her portrait painted in France when sixteen. We have no doubt of the originality of this picture, on which much labour has evidently been expended. Mary of Lorraine, her mother^ a neat small picture. V20 Chambers is of opinion, that it is rather that of Margaret, Mdfe of James VI. fi'om the armorial bearings at the top. Over the mantle-piece is a good picture of the first Duke of Hamilton, who was beheaded after the battle of Wor- cester. Over the door is shewn the Duchess of Portsmouth ; but this is the Countess of Southesk, niece to the first Duke of Hamilton. In a room in the front of the Palace belonging to this suite of apartments, is a full length portrait described as that of Darnley, but it more probably represents Henry Prince of Wales, Grainger's Biog. p. 313. Chalmers seems to be of opinion that it is the second Marquis of Hamilton when young. He is borne out in this conjecture, by the circumstance of the first half of the date being 16 — , th^ rest is defaced. These apartments communicate on the east side with the picture gallery, which is a spacious apartment, about 150 feet in length, 24 in breadth, and nearly 20 in height. It occupies the whole length of the first floor over the piazza, on the north side of the court, with which it communicates by the scale stair at the north-east angle of the piazza. This gallery is lighted by twelve windows, three of which are at the east end, and nine on the south side. In conse- quence of its main light being thus from the inner court, it possesses that dark and solemn appearance, in which gran- deur and dignity are made so remarkably to harmonize. This noble room is adorned with one hundred and eleven pictures of the Kings of Scotland, from the reputed time of Fergus I. down to the time of the Revolution. Few or none are genuine, although some may be copied from originals ; and it is said, that a Dutch artist, named De Wit, was employed to get up this collection for a pageant, when Charles I. entered Edinburgh. These portraits were all hacked and slashed, and many large 121 pieces cut out of many of them by General Hawley's troops^ when quartered in it after the defeat of the King's army at Falkirk in 17^5, — and who appear to have thought, that they could not better manifest their loyalty to King George, than by defacing or destroying every representation of the Scottish Monarchs. These pictures, after being re- paired some time ago, were removed from their original hanging frames, and fixed into the pannels of the wains- coating. This Gallery is now used at the election of the 16 Peers, who represent the Scottish Nobility in the British Parliament ; and during the residence of the Princes of the House of Bourbon, and the French Noblesse, Mass was publicly and regularly celebrated in it by the French priests without any opposition, either from the clergy or inhabi- tants of Edinburgh. Their private Chapel is at present in a room used by Lord Adam Gordon as a drawing-room. The gallery originally communicated with the Royal Chapel, which joins it on the north-east, as it still does on the south east with the state apartments built by Charles II. These apartments surround the remainder of the Court on the first floor, and contain several large public rooms wainscoted with oak. The festoons of flowers and foliage over the doors and mantle-pieces are well executed ; but the stucco ornaments of the roofs, (similar to all those of that period,) are rather heavy. The Duke d'^Artois, during his residence here, occupied the rooms belonging to this suite, on tlie east and south sides of the Palace. These were possessed in 1822 by the family of Major Nairne,* in- spector-general of barracks for Scotland. Immediately above the Royal apartments, and in the northern division of the upper flat of the buildings, are the apartments assigned to the Duke of Argyle. The southern division of this floor, with the apartments immediately adjoining on the south * The late Lord Nairne. m2 side of the quadrangle, were occupied by the Earl of Bread- albane, but have been given up for the accommodation of the exiled French. Here are some good rooms, ornament- ed with fine paintings, particularly in the Great Room, which is covered with very fine gobeline tapestry, repre- senting the Battles of Alexander and Darius; and other pieces of heathen Mythology are shewn. A full length por- trait of the Queen of Charles I. in a sitting posture, sur- rounded by her family, (Charles II. James Duke of York, and the Princess Anne,) the portrait of Charles I. is repre- sented in the corner of the scene. Chambers says, that this is copied from a beautiful group of the Buckingham family, by Vandyke, in the possession of the Earl of Mar, but the portrait bears a greater resemblance to Charles, than any of the Buckinghams we have seen. The Duke of Lauderdale. The Duchess of Lauderdale, a good picture, but rather cold looking. The Laird of M^Nab, a very large full length portrait by Sir H. Raeburn. This picture was painted by express command of his Majesty, who, on the occasion of his visit in 1822, paid a high compliment to the fine arts by con- ferring on that talented painter the order of Knighthood. This beautiful and attractive painting is like his^other works, which. Sir Walter Scott says, do every thing but speak. John Earl of Breadalbane. Henrietta Countess of Breadalbane, daughter of Sir Edward Villers, and sister to Edward Earl of Jersey. The late John Lord Glenorchy, husband of Lady Glen- orchy, who founded the chapel of that name, l?^^^ a very neat picture. Arabella Pershall, Lady Glenorchy, 1740, a very fine picture. Henry Grey Duke of Kent, Father of Arabella Lady Glenorchy, 1731, a very fine expressive picture. 123 Full length portrait of William Cavendish, Duke oi Newcastle, by Vandyke, a very line dark picture. The Honourable Philip Yorke, eldest son of the Right Honourable Philip Lord Hardwick, Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain, married to Jemima Marchioness Grey, daughter of the late Lord Glenorchy, dated 17^0, by Allan Ramsay ; an exquisite picture, expressive and graceful. Jemima Marchioness Grey, by Ramsay, a most beautiful and superbly executed portrait. Lady Frances Glenorchy, daughter of Henry Cavendish Duke of Newcastle, by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; a very good picture, the face is very expressive. Lord Polwood ; this is considered a very superior small portrait, the attitude is very fine. John Campbell, Earl of Breadalbane, 1676. Lady Isabella Rich, daughter to Lord Holland, and sister to the first Countess of Breadalbane, in white satin, with a Theorbo lute. A most splendid full length portrait, by Vandyke ; the face is of exquisite and tender expression, the attitude graceful in the extreme, and the flowing robe of satin is inimitable. She was an excellent performer on that instrument. The first Earl of Breadalbane'*s two wives, both of whose fathers, it is remarkable, lost their heads on the scaffold. Duke of Buckingham, by Vandyke, a very fine warm pic- ture, and much admired. Duchess of Abbermairle, second wife of the famous Gene- ral Monk, afterwards created Duke of Abermairle for re- storing Charles II. painted by Sir P. Lely. Countess of Kildare, one of the beauties of Charles II. a very pretty painting. Colin Campbell, Esq. of Carwhin. Lady Frances Howard, mother of Henrietta, Countess of Breadalbane. Mary, Countess of Breadalbane. 124 Two natives of Greenland. Archibald Marquis of Argyle, a good dark picture, by Jamieson. He was a staunch covenanter, and was behead- ed in the reign of Charles II. A beautiful landscape and waterfall. Fall of Foyers. Duncan Campbell, first Earl of Breadalbane, 1601. Six views of Taymouth. John (late) Earl of Breadalbane, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, a very beautiful full length portrait in the Highland garb. Christian VI. King of Denmark, a very superior portrait. Frederick Prince Royal of Denmark, 1737, a most beau- tiful full length portrait. Queen Anne of Denmark, second wife of Frederick IV. 1729, very beautiful. Charlotte Princess of Denmark, leaning on a pedestal, on which is a bust of W^illiam III. of England, a fine pic- ture. A very ingenious piece of needle-work, representing a view of Copenhagen, by Joanna Wade, a Danish Lady. Frederick IV. King of Denmark, beautiful. Head of a Satyr, by Rubens, a very superior painting, and much admired. Edward, first Earl of Jersey, and brother of Henrietta, Countess of Breadalbane, a very good picture, by Kneller. Mary, consort of William III. by do. a good painting. Countess of Essex. Charles Prince of Denmark, a very fine portrait. In addition to these interesting paintings. His Majes- ty has been graciously pleased to command that the two historical paintings, by our celebrated countryman, Wil- kie, illustrative of memorable incidents which occurred during the visit of George IV. to Scotland, shall be sent to Edinburgh, and placed in one of the state apartments of Holyrood Palace. These paintings were exhibited 125 at Somerset House last year, and elicited very liigli praise from the London periodical press. One of them re- presents the arrival of George IV. at the grand entrance to Holyrood Palace, upon 15th of August 1822. Besides the figure of his Majesty, which, of course, occupies a pro- minent part in the picture, portraits of the Duke of Ha- milton, the Duke of Montrose, the Duke of Argyll, Sir Walter Scott, and a number of other celebrated characters, are introduced. The other of these paintings represents his late Majesty as he appeared in the Highland dress at the drawing-room held at Holyrood in August 1822, and is said to be a splendid production. The south-west tower, and apartments immediately ad- joining it, contain several very lofty rooms designed for le- vees, &c. and entering from the large hanging stair at the south-west angle of the piazza. These were occupied by the Earl of Strathmore, in right of his wife, formerly Lady Campbell of Ardkinlass, until the arrival of his Ex- Majesty Charles X., when they were relinquished for his accommodation. On the north side of the court, were Lord Dunmore's lodgings, which enter from the piazza, and extend along the north side of the large Picture Gallery, having the Duke of Hamilton's on the west, and the Chapel Royal on the east. These apartments were formerly occupied by Lady Elizabeth Murray, and contained a picture of Char- les I. and his Queen going a-hunting, with the sky shower- ing roses on them, erroneously attributed to Vandyke, but really painted by My tons, The Queen is painted with a • Walpole's Anecdotes of Painting, Vol. II, p. 45. 126 love lock, and with brown hair and complexion, and younger than any of her portraits generally are. A black stands by them holding a grey horse, and the celebrated dwarf JefFrey Hudson, holding a spaniel in a string. Several other dogs are seen sporting around. This picture which has unfortunately been removed, came into the Dunmore family by the marriage of the first Earl with Miss Watts of the County of Hereford. Lord Dunmore's apartments have been lately repaired, for the accommodation of the Duke and Duchess D'Angou- leme. Formerly, the Lord keeper of the Palace had his resi- dence over the western porch of the old Abbey, being the entrance that led from the city into the western, or outer court of the Palace. This porch, which consisted of seve- ral pointed arches, was flanked with turrets that rose to a considerable height, and had a good effect when viewed from the east side of the outer court. A view of this porch, taken at the time of its demolition, A. D. 1755, is given in plate IX.* This dilapidated building, which is a disgrace to the Pa- lace, is occupied as a Jail and Court Room, the house of the keeper of the chapel, and the officer of the Abbey. The Court Room is in ruins, and it is fortunate that there is seldom a prisoner, for the jail is untenantable, and offers an easy me- thod of escape through the broken rafters. We understand, however, that sundry considerable repairs are in contem- plation, in which it is expected the above will be included. A very old house of the style of the 16th century, which * A few doggrel verses were made upon this event by an anonymous writer under tlie signature of Claudero, of which these are a specimen : Adieu, Edina now adieu, Edina echoed then aloud, Fair Scotia's glory's gone. And bade a long farewell ; This said, she bow'd her ancient head. The Calton Hill and Arthur Seat And gave the final groan. Did ring her parting knell. 127 served as a kitchen and servants' apartments, adjoining the north side of the Palace, was entirely taken down, which opened up a splendid view of the west end, and grand entrance to the Abbey, which is now unfortunately ob- scured by a modern circular row of offices recently erected. We can have but a faint idea of the external appearance, even of that portion of the Palace possessed by Queen Mary, at a time when the person of the sovereign was in danger, from the plots and conspiracies of discontented and treacherous nobles. Every window in the tower possessed by Mary, was strongly secured from without by large iron bars, 12 of which were fastened across the windows, and from the top to the bottom. The unsightly appearance of these bars in a Royal Palace, may have probably induced Charles I. when he came to reside here, to remove those gratings, and cause the large holes in the stones to be neatly filled up. This interesting circumstance, we believe, has not been taken notice of by any former antiquarian : and it was only when this work was in the press, that the discovery was made on a strict survey of the building along with a highly talented friend, who has evinced a deep interest in our re- searches. To the north-east of this porch, is the King's Garden, containing about an acre and a half. The south wall of this garden forms the northern boundary of the great wes- tern court of the Palace. The original door-piece still re- mains in the centre of this wall, ornamented with the royal arms of Scotland, and other devices. In the centre of this garden is a beautiful fancy Horologe of stone, fixed to a pedestal, which is placed upon the top of three octagonal steps. The Horologe contains a variety of Dials, placed in circular and semi-circular cavities ; but several of the gnomons are now broken off. The intervening spaces be- tween the dials are carved with various devices, among 128 which the royal arms of Scotland, with the initials " M. R. C. R.'' St Andrew and his Cross, St George and the Dragon, the Thistle, Rose, Fleur-de-lis, Harp, &c. are still in tolerable preservation. This garden, which, with James V.'s apart- ments, belongs to the heritable Keeper of the Palace, is bounded towards the east by a square grass field, lately tastefully laid out and planted on the north side of the Palace, known by the name of the Artillery Park; on the north by the street called the Abbey Hill; on the west, by a number of private dwelling-houses within the precincts of the Sanctuary ; and on the south, by the great western or outer court of the Palace. There are also several other gardens of various dimensions on the south side of the Palace, belonging to the Duke of Hamil- ton, Earl of Haddington, and others, as delineated on the accompanying plan of the Sanctuary. These gardens are generally under leases to tenants. 129 ENVIRONS OF THE PALACE, AND PRIVILEGES OF THE SANCTUARY. Adjoining the Palace of Holyroodhouse, upon the east, south, and south-west, there is an extensive Park, which was first inclosed by King James V. with a high stone wall. It embraces a circuit of about four miles and a quar- ter, and formed the ancient Sanctuary for the protection of criminals, that was attached as a " City of Refuge"'*' to the Abbey Sancfce Crucis. The protection from civil di- ligence within the precincts of the Abbey of Holyroodhouse, is supposed to have been granted to the place of the King'^s residence, wherever he happened to hold his Court, that he might not be deprived of the advice and assistance of his subjects. In the records of the Abbey, we find very little that can throw light upon the origin of this privilege ; it is, how- ever, of remote antiquity. The first instance now on re- cord of the first debtor, who obtained the protection of the Sanctuary, is the case of John Scott in the year 1531. This was one year before the institution of the College of Justice, after the Parliament of Paris, three hundred ISO years ago, and since that remote period down to the pre- sent time, protections have been granted to insolvent debt-, ors by the Bailie of the Abbey, who holds his appointment under his Grace the Duke of Hamilton, as hereditary Keeper of the Palace. A jurisdiction is here exercised over the inhabitants, and those residing under the protection, and a Court held in the old building, which once composed the porch of the Abbey before described. The Bailie, and Clerk who occasionally officiates as De- puty, are appointed from some of the law departments, and not from the Burgesses, as is the case with the Bailies of Edinburgh, Canongate, &c. they are consequently possessed of legal knowledge and practice.* The whole of this park still affords an asylum to insolvent debtors, whose persons cannot be seized at the instance of their creditors so long as they remain within its precincts. This spacious range " is of a very singular nature to be in the vicinity of a populous city, being little else than an assemblage of hills, rocks, precipices, morasses, and lakes.**" It includes the hills of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags,-|- * Several of the Bailies of the Abbey have been men of considerable eminence. Mr Hamilton was transferred from his office of Bailie, to the situation of one of the Lords of Council and Session. -|- Some with Maitland think, that the name of Arthur^s Seat, is a cor- ruption of the Gaelic Ard-na-said, which implies the height of arrows : " For no spot," says he, " is fitter for the exercise of archery, either at butts or rovers, than this ; wherefore, Ard-na-said, by an easy transition, might well be changed into Arthur'* s Seat While others, with Arnot, strenuously maintain, and on the authority of Whitaker's History, (Vol. II. p. 54.) that Arthur's Seat is so denominated " from Arthur, the Brit- ish Prince, who, in the end of the sixth century, defeated the Saxons in that neighbourhood and that Salisbury Crags take their name from the Earl of Salisbury, who, in the reign of Edward III. accompanied that prince in an expedition against the Scots. What makes the latter of these more probable is, that in old authors the name of these hills is differently spelled Salisbury and Sarezhury ; so also is the name of that Earl." 131 which are separated from each other by a deep valley, in the bottom of which is a morass. Arthur's Seat is the largest of these hills, and rises into several tops, which are particularly delineated on the accompanying plan. The highest of these tops, or Arthur's Seat proper, overlooks Salisbury Crags, and is a beautiful hill, of a conical form, rising gradually on the south side next the Palace, accord- ing to a late measurement, to the height of 822 feet above the level of the sea. Salisbury Crags form the western ex- tremity of the lower hill, which is situated immediately under the rocky top of Arthur's Seat. They present a semicircular body of rocks and precipices, the summit of which is easily reached at the south and north extremities by a gentle acclivity, and affords a good panoramic view of the city of Edinburgh and suburbs. But " immediately upon descending eastward into the valley, the view of Edinburgh is totally lost ; the imperial prospect of the city and castle, which these rocks in a manner overhang, is in- tercepted by Salisbury Crags. Seldom are human beings to be met in this lonely vale, 6r any creatures to be seen, but the sheep feeding on the mountain, and the hawks and ravens winging their flight among the rocks." * Both hills, when viewed at a little distance to the west and north- west, bear a considerable resemblance to a Lion couchant^ or the head and back of a Camel. Great basaltic columns, from 40 to 50 feet in length, and about three feet in diameter, regularly pentagonal or hexa- gonal, hang down the face of the cliffs to the south, with a gentle slope, and are vulgarly called Samson s Ribs. To the east of this stratum is a quarry of whinstone ; and to the south, several springs of water, called the Wells of Wearie. Considerable quantities of stone from this rock^ * Arnot's History of Edinburgh, 132 were formerly cut and sent to London for paving the streets ; its great hardness rendering it excellent for that purpose. Among these rocks are rich ores and spar, with a great variety of rock plants, which afford an excellent field to the enlightened gentleman and naturalist : A mi- neralogical account of which will be found in the sequel. Beneath and around these hills are some beautiful walks, which afford an easy and romantic retreat, both to the citi- zen after the bustle of public life, and to the student in his hours of leisure or relaxation ; all of which are within the range of the Park or sanctuary. There is also a very fine echo that distinctly reiterates the voice three times. At the foot of one of those disjointed rocks that extend along the south-west corner of the Park, is one near to where the Powder Magazine was lately erected, called the Echoing Rock, and is the favourite resort of the lover and the musician in the calm summer evening. Thence, when all nature is unison around, the tones of the bugle or flute are frequently heard softly swelling, and blending into a variety of soothing tones. Near this rock, one of the public walks stretches under the basaltic columns to the church and village of Dudding- stone, situated on the south-eastern declivity of Arthur's seat, at the margin of a small fresh water lake called Dud- dingstone Loch^ belonging to the Earl of Abercorn. Be- yond it is seen his Lordship's elegant Mansion of Dudding- stone-Hall, surrounded by a beautiful park in the modern taste. North-west from Duddingstone, and at the foot of the opposite, or north side of the hill, is a level stripe of ground, " which, from the Duke of York having delighted to walk in it, bears the name of the Duke's Walk ^''^ concernin^^ * At the east end of this walk, sacred to love and meditation, there is a cairn, or monumental erection of loose stones which were reared over the 133 which, Arnot obseiTes in 1779? that in the memory of peo- ple then recently deceased, this walk was covered with tall oaks. But now there is hardly a single tree (of any considerable size) in its whole boundaries. Indeed it is ex- tremely doubtful, if, except at the bottom, there were ever any trees on these hills, the height of ground, and the bar- renness of the soil being very unfavourable for their growth.*" A little towards the south of this walk, and upon the northern acclivity of Arthur's Seat, nearly a quarter of a mile from the Palace, stand the ruins of ST ANTHONY'S CHAPEL AND HERMITAGE, once the resort of numerous votaries. spot where a wretch, one Nichol Muschet^ had murdered his wife^ A. D. 1720, and lately introduced with much effect, as the scene of an interesting meeting in the popular Novel of The Heart of Mid-Lothian," in the second series of The Tales of my Landlord." The original scite of the cairn was on the opposite side of the walk, and the stones having been removed, when the modern approach to the park was formed. The murderer was descended of a respectable family in the county of Angus ; and had been educated in the profession of a surgeon. When in Edinburgh, in the course of his education he made an imprudent match with a woman in humble life, named Margaret Hall. He soon afterwards repent- ed of this step, and endeavoured by every possible means to rid himself of his wife, till at length, distracted by his frequent disappointments, he resolved on cutting her throat. The day before the perpetration of this horrid deed, he pretended a return of affection to the unfortunate woman, the better to conceal his design, and in the evening took her to walk with him in the di- rection of Duddingstone. The unhappy creature was averse to the expedition, but in spite of her tears and entreaties he persisted. When they had got nearly to the extremity of the Duke's Walk, Muschet threw her upon the ground, and immediately proceeded to his bloody purpose. During her resistance he wounded her hand and chin, which she held down, thus intercepting the knife, and but for her long hair with which he pinned her to the earth, he could not have succeeded, as her struggles were great. This wretch was tried and found guilty on his own confession, and after being hanged in the Grass Market, he was removed to the Gallowlee, where he was suspended in chains. 134 The area of the Chapel was 43^ feet in length, 18 in breadth, and had a handsome Gothic roof of the same height, consisti^ig of three arches, which are now fallen down. On the west was a large tower, 19 feet square, and 40 feet in height. In the south wall, near the altar, is a small niche for holding the pix, and another for the holy water. The Hermitage stood at the foot of the rock on which the Chapel was founded, and though in the neighbourhood of a popu- lous city, had every characteristic of a place of this nature. It was about 16 feet in length, by 12 feet 8 inches in breadth, and 11 feet in height. Both Hermitage and Chapel belonged to the Monastery of St Anthony at South Leith, which is two miles distant towards the north. Upon the common seal of this convent, preserved in the Advocates"* Library, is the figure of St Anthony, * in a hermit's mantle, with a book in one hand, and a staff in the other ; and at his foot a sow, with a bell about its neck.-|- Over his head is a capital T, and round the seal is this inscription, " S. COMMVNE PRECEPTORIiE SANCTI AN- THONII PROPE LEICHT." These canons followed * St Anthony was a monk of great celebrity, who lived in the 4th century, and is reckoned the father of the monastic life. -i* Rigord, who wrote in the 12th century, tells us that for a long time swine were permitted to wallow in the streets of Paris, even after they were paved ; till the young Philip, being killed by a fall from his horse, from a sow running between its legs, an order was issued that no swine should in future run about the streets. The Monks of the Abbey of St Anthony re- monstrated fiercely against this order, alleging that the prevention of the Saints swine from enjoying the liberty of going where they pleased, was a want of respect to their Patron. It was therefore found necessary to grant them the privilege of wallowing in the streets without molestation ; this per- mission, however, was qualified with the proviso, that all swine belonging to the Monks of St Anthony^ should be turned out with bells about their necks; this privilege probably gave rise to the sow and bell on the seal of the convent, which they i)roudly adopted as a symbol of kingly favour and protection, and deemed worthy of being emblazoned on the insignia of that order. 135 the rule of St Augustine, and wore a black gown with a blue cross, in form of the letter T, upon their left breast. The only mark of distinction betM^een them and the canons regidar was, that they wore neither an almuce nor a roch- et^ which the regulars and bishops made use of.* At the foot of the rock is a fine spring, celebrated in a beautiful pathetic old ballad, founded on the amours of some courtly dame and false gallant, when royalty inhabit- ed the neighbouring Palace, as follows : — I leant my back unto an aik, I thought it was a trusty tree ; But first it bow'd, and syne it brak, Sae my true love's forsaken me.'' " Oh ! Arthur's seat shall be my bed, The sheets sail ne'er be fyled by me ; St Anthon's well shall be my drink, Syn my fause luve's forsaken me." From this well a foot-path, accurately delineated on the accompanying map of the Sanctuary, leads to the summit of Arthur's Seat, whence an extensive view is ob- tained in every direction, which amply recompenses the la- bour of ascending. To the west is seen the neighbouring city and extended royalty of Edinburgh, with the suburbs, and the adjoining districts of the county ; and beyond them, part of the counties of Linlithgow, Stirling, Dumbarton, Perth, and Clackmannan, while the vast rocks of Salis- bury Crags appear spread out underneath. To the north- ward, the Calton Hill, with its public buildings and monu- ments ; the new London road stretching along its southern bank from the Regent's Bridge, which connects it with the city at Prince's Street on the west, till it joins the old road from the Canongate on the east, near Jock's Lodge, a vil- lage at the north-east declivity of Arthur's Seat. Beyond this line of road, is seen the flourishing town and port of Leith, the Frith and navigation of the Forth, the opposite * Keith's Account of Religious Houses, cap. 3. 136 coast of Fifeshire from Queensferry to Crail ; and part of the counties of Kinross, Perth, and Angus, in the distance. Eastward is Piershill barracks for cavalry, the ruinous kirk and village of Restalrig, the thriving village of Portobello, (much resorted to for sea-bathing;) and farther on, the town and bay of Musselburgh, with a number of villages skirting the shores. Across this bay is seen, on its eastern beach, the splendid modern mansion of Gosford, built by the late Earl of Wemyss ; and, behind it, North-Berwick Law appears rising like a vast cone, from the waters of the Forth. Turning southward, the country around Mus- selburgh and Dalkeith presents itself. Here Inveresk Church and spire, Craigmillar Castle, Libberton Kirk and Tower, Blackford, Braid, and Pentland Hills, are striking objects ; while the park of Duddingstone-hall, the village and loch of that name, with the house and inclosures of Prestonfield, (the seat of Sir Robert Keith Dick, Baronet,) appear spread out from the base. Several of the southern counties are partially observed in the back ground. The hill of Arthur Seat, King's Park, and Meadows, are enjoyed by the Earl of Haddington. MINERALOGICAL REMARKS ON THE HILLS OF ARTHUR's SEAT AND SALISBURY CRAGS. As these romantic promontories and adjacent craggy scenery, are more or less frequented by the naturalist, the following observations may not be unimportant. Arthur's seat. A most beautiful and singular spotted Jasper was, some years ago, dug out of this hill, below St Anthony's Chapel ; the basis is generally of one uniform colour, sometimes veined, but always spotted with another colour. It con- tains a good deal of Iron in small round balls ; it admits of 187 an elegant polish, and has been wrought into seals, broaches, ear-rings, buttons, &c. ; the colours are brown with white spots, white with red spots, and sometimes all the colours are blended together. At the place where the Jasper is found, a particular spe- cies of Iron-stone has been discovered, which rises in slabs from the fissures, and takes a very fine polish. In the cavities, where attempts were made to obtain specimens of Jasper, several remarkable crystals were discovered, partly siliceous and partly calcareous, of the dog tooth kind, inter- mixed and shooting from the same base. Red Keel, or Ruddle, is also to be found on the north-east side of the hilL To render our observations more intelligible, we may state several discoveries that have been made on the Calton hill, applicable in some respects to Arthur's Seat. The east side of this rock being mostly filled with soil, cannot be narrowly examined ; the detached fragments are of much the same nature as the Castle hill, viz. a cross grained trap ; some of which contains a considerable quantity of Haemati- tes and Shorl, and is acted upon by acids. Near the top of the hill they assume a porphyric appearance, which is very visible in the quarry above Bridewell ; the lowest stra- tum is a coarse pudding stone, formed of fragments of a porphyrons rock, of a number of different sizes, mixed with a good deal of red felt -spar ; above this stratum is another of porphyry, from 30 to 40 feet thick. A very rare Fossil was discovered in this porphyry in the year 1785, by a French gentleman, viz. the Margodes of Linnaeus ; it was found from the size of a hazel nut, and upwards ; of a tes- selated crystallized shape, with regular sides and angles, resembling a Garnet, of different colours, from a deep red to a light brown ; its earth approaches nearest the Zeolite. The reason we are so particular as to the Calton is, that this curious Fossil has since been found in a quarry in Ar- thur's seat, at the east end of the Duke's Walk. 138 SALISBURY CRAGS. This hill is well worthy the attention of the naturalist, from the various strata that compose it, which our limits will not permit us fully to detail ; we shall only observe, that the great mass of whin rocks, is incumbent on the gritt and clay ; these latter are commonly thought to be of pos- terior formation, which proves this arrangement to be ex- tremely singular. Beautiful specimens of radiated Haema- tites have been found in the quarry near Holyroodhouse ; they are intermixed with steatites, green fibrous Iron ore, and calcareous spar, forming in many specimens a very un- common mass. Veins of calcareous spar, beautifully striped, are met with in many places ; also Lac Lunae, Zeolite, and Amethystine quartz crystals. There is a good sand-stone quarry at the back of the rock. Descending from the summit towards Holyroodhouse, by St Anthony's well, we enter through a style at the west end of the Uuke's Walk, into ST ANNE'S YARD'S, Which is a large grass inclosed field, immediately to the east of the Palace. These and the King's gardens are enjoyed by the Duke of Hamilton. Maitland observes, that " various were the opinions concerning the appellation of that inclo- sure, some deriving it from the vicinal hermitage of St An- thony ; but, as there is said to have been a Chapel adjoining to the abbot's house in the said yards, the vestigia whereof are still (in 1753,) to be seen, a little be-east the bowling green wall, * belonging to the Palace, I think 'tis more * The spot here alluded to by Mr Maitland, corresponds to the site of the Chapter-house, Treasury, small cloister, and Abbot's house, as mentioned in the general account of the Abbey. 139 probable that this inclosure received its name from the Chapel, which we may presume was dedicated to St Aiine/^ At the north side of St Anne'^s Yards, in a small street called Croft-an-righ, is an old house, in the taste of the 16th century, said to have been the residence of the Regent Murray. This house and adjoining garden, now the pro- perty of the widow of Mr Gavin, engraver, were gifted, along with several of the adjoining properties, by James VI. to a favourite servant of the name of French. At the foot of the Canongate, and towards the north-west of the grand entrance of the Abbey, formerly stood THE GIRTH CROSS, So denominated from its being the western extremity of the Sanctuary. It originally consisted of three steps, the case and the shaft surmounted by a cross patee. It was taken down when the strand was made at the boundary of the Sanctuary on the west side, but its site can still be pointed out on the pavement. * * All sanctuaries were formerly denominated garths^ and a cross erected upon the extreme verge of the consecrated spot, which was always done, was held as sacred ; and if the person pursued touched this palladium before his pursuers overtook him^ he was received with shouts of triumph into the " City of refuge.'' 140 THE PRIVILEGES OF THE SANCTUARY. The protection of the Sanctuary, now denied to criminals, is allowed to unfortunate debtors as a gentler species of con- finement. The privilege is at least co-eval with our ear- liest judicial records, and has been esteemed by the wisest men, to be honourable to the law, and useful in its conse- quences. It is a humane provision for misfortune, against one of the severest punishments which can be inflicted upon the unfortunate. Creditors, for the gratification of resent- ment, might otherwise push legal measures to an excessive severity ; an evil which, without violating salutary general rules, could not be corrected by any special interposition of authority. A debtor availing himself of this refuge, does no injury to the interests of his creditors, since his property can be effectually attached, although his person be not pre- viously seized. Thus the gratification of resentment, which alone is frus- trated, constitutes no interest which a Court of Justice will recognize. A person retiring to the Sanctuary for per- sonal protection from diligence, is understood to remain protected for the first twenty-four hours, that time may be affbrded to him to obtain a protection ; after which he may be seized in virtue of diligence, and carried beyond the ju- risdiction, unless a regular protection has been in the mean- time obtained and booked. And the constables of the Abbey are bound to oppose every officer of the law, from taking any person out of the Abbey for debt, or even for bailable crimes, without a signed order from the Bailie. — Regula- tions of Abbey Court, 1757- 141 In one of the acts of this Court, 1689 and 1697? ^^e Bailie discharges the inhabitants from receiving any person into their houses in the Abbey, until they cause an entry of their names and designations to be made in a book kept by the Bailie, under pain of being subjected to certain fines. This act, however, does not appear to have been lately put in execution. The number of persons booked for the pro- tection vary considerably ; from 1741 to 1778? seven hundred and sixteen were inserted in the record. The fee for pro- tection, which ex officio is signed by the Bailie, is now rais- ed by the Bailie to L.2, 2s. ; a fee of 2s. is also exacted for a view of the protection record. It does not, however, pro- tect a person against punishment for a crime of magnitude, or against the diligence of caption, if he escape from the messenger to the sanctuary by force or intrigue. The date of booking the protection is of great importance, in ascer- taining the period of the bankruptcy of debtors retiring to the Abbey, and in regulating the preference of creditors under the Bankrupt Act. If the debtor contract debt, either within or without the jurisdiction, after so retiring to the sanctuary, he may be sued for payment before the Bailie Court, which is situated within the precincts ; and decreet being obtained and extracted, and a charge given, he may, in virtue of an act of Warding, be incarcerated in the jail of the Abbey, or his effects poinded. He has not the privilege of suing a process of cessio bonorum in the Court of Session, even when confined in the Abbey jail for debt, in respect that the jail is not of the description re- quired in the Act of Sederunt 18th July 1688 ; and the circumstance of the debtor's being within the sanctuary, of itself precludes the action. He may, however, sue for the benefit of the Act 1696, c. 32. usually called the Act of Grace, in the same manner as any other debtor may do who is incarcerated in any other jail in Scotland. The Bailie has power to grant warrant to apprehend, examine K 142 and imprison debtors within the jurisdiction, as in medita- tioiie fugce^ and he may even seize, imprison, and search fraudulent bankrupts. If the debtor's presence be requu'ed as a witness beyond the precincts, a protection may be ob- tained from the Court of Session or Justiciary, as the case may be. But the debtor enjoys many advantages, when compared with the squalor carceris^ the filth and confine- ment of a jail — such as the benefit of comfortable lodgings, salubrious air, and of extensive romantic walks within the precincts, which occupy a range of between six and seven miles in circumference, including Arthur'^s Seat, about the half of the beautiful and romantic lake of Duddingstone, and the surrounding hills and valleys, comprehending Sa- lisbury Crags, St Anthony's Chapel, King's Park, Palace, Palace-yard, &c.* to the strand at the foot of the Canongate, And during the period of his protection, he is at liberty to remove beyond the bounds during Sunday.f BOUNDARIES OF THE SANCTUARY. From the Watergate^ a few yards to the north-east of the Girth CrosSy the boundary line runs southward across the principal street by the strand, or gutter, at the foot of the Canongate ; passes through the centre of the Horse Wynd, and keeps in the same direction till it reaches the meadow ground at the foot of Salisbury Crags, taking in the lane west of Millar's garden ; then turning westward, it follows the course of the wall which bounds that meadow on the north and west, till it comes to St Leonard's Hill, to the west of Salisbury Crags ; bending to the south, it runs * See the accompanying plan. •f Halkerston's translation of Law terms. 143 along the east side of the road called Dumbie Dykes^ and over the top of the ridge of St Leonard's Hill ; when tak- ing a sweep to the south-east, it passes Gibraltar House, the gate and style at the shepherd^s house, and along by the boundary of Prestonfield park to the Wells of Wearie^ at the foot of the basaltic columns, which overhang the foot path leading from Duddingstone, and runs nearly due east till it joins Duddingstone Loch ; then, bending to the north- ward, it encircles the loch about half way, till it reaches the projecting wall of the Minister's Glebe, where it turns suddenly to the north, and passing the tirless^ or style, lead- ing to the village of Duddingstone, pursues its course up the hill till it reaches the plantation on the east side of Arthur's Seat ; then, inclining to the north>west, it passes on to the style at the Watering Stone^ opposite to the west gate of Parsons' Green. Winding then to the westward, along the north side of the Duke's Walk, it comes to the style in the King's Park-wall ; where, turning northward, it runs on till it joins a row of large elm trees, which it follows in a north-easterly direction to Clock-mill House ; then turning westward, it continues its course by the wall of the Physic Garden j to the north gate of the King's Park, at Craftangrie, and along by the wall on the north side of the Abbey Church-yard, till it reaches the Artillery Park, which it bounds on the east and north sides ; then, passing along by the north-west wall of the King's Garden, and the houses on the south side of the Abbey Hill, it reaches the Watergate, including within its precincts the whole of the extensive hills of Arthur'' s Seat and Salisbury Crags, with the romantic valleys which lie between and around them, as more particularly delineated by the dotted lines on the accompanying plan. 144 OFFICERS CONNECTED WITH THE CHAPEL ROYAL. Almoner^ Rev. John Paton, minister of Lasswade. Deputy^ Mr Robert Paton, writer in Edinburgh. Dean of the Chapel Royal^ Rev. Dr William Lau- rence Brown, Dean of the Order of the Thistle, Principal and Professor of Divinity in Marischall College, and one of the ministers of Aberdeen. DeanSj Rev. Dr John Inglis, one of the ministers of Edinburgh ; Rev. Dr Andrew Grant, one of the ministers of St Andrew's Church, Edinburgh ; and Rev. Dr Wil- liam Bryce. Chaplains in Ordinary^ The Rev. Drs. Lee of Edin-^ burghj A. Fleming of Hamilton^ J. M'Kenzie of Port Patrick^ Duncan M'Farlane of Drymen^ David La- mont of Kirkpatrick Durham^ and Duncan Mearns, Professor of Divinity, King's College, Aberdeen. Royal Seooton^ Mr James Bland, County Hall. Deputy^ and Keeper of the Chapel Royal^ M. Petrie, No, 7? Abbey. OFFICERS CONNECTED WITH THE PALACE AND SANCTUARY. Heritable Keeper of the Palace^ — His Grace Alexander, Duke of Hamilton and Brandon, &c. Deputy^ — Robert Rutherford, Esq. Bailie^ — John Dickie, Esq. W. S. 21, Dean Terrace. Deputy and Clerk^ — John Somerville, Esq. 11, Antigua Street. Officer of Courts — Andrew Petrie. There is also a Palace Constabulary, composed of the Merchants and Inhabitants. To he Published, early in 1832, (Price, to Subscribers, \0s. Fine Copies, lbs.) AND DEDICATED TO HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, QUEEN ADELAIDE, An Historical Description of the ancient CASTLES which formed the residence of MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS, from her Birth at Linlithgow, till her Execution at Fotheringhay, By Charles Mackie, Author of the following highly popular Works. Embellished with elegant Engravings, from Original Drawings, by Mr G. F. Sargent. This Work has already been patronised by The Right Honourable Earl of Buchan. The Right Honourable Lord Duffus. The Right Honourable F. Jeffrey, Lord Advocate of Scotland. The Right Honourable William Allan of Glen, Lord Provost of Edinburgh. Sir Patrick Walker, Knight, Usher of the White Rod. Sir Henry Jardine, Knight, King's Remembrancer, &c. &c. &c. In compiling an Historical Description of all Castles which formed the residence of Mary Queen of Scots, the Author has not contented himself with ordinary historical research. " The structures of which he is about to treat, are highly entitled to the admiration of the Antiquarian and Scholar, as regards their antiquity. But when we behold in every ruin a memento of a former age and former beings, they become so many indexes to the most memorable events in history, — the lives of monarchs, statesmen, patriots, and philosophers. Architectural antiquities, however mutilated and defaced, are objects and evidences of incalculable importance. They are the most striking indi- cations of the vicissitudes and fluctuations of civilized society ; — they ex- hibit man in his domestic economy, as well as in his historical relations, and mark the progress of refinement from the most barbarous ages to the present period. " But what must peculiarly enhance the value and interest of the pre- sent volume, is the associations connected with the lovely but unfortunate QUEEN OF SCOTS, whose eventful history has invested every place she approached with an interest, which will never cease to exist while a vestige remains to mark one scene of her devious life ; a life, which, from her cradle to her grave, exhibits a moral lesson, more intensely inte- resting, and more powerfully impressive, than perhaps any other which the annals of thrones have produced. " Her beauty, — her talents,— her misfortunes, — ^her errors, — the great contention which her name and history have created in the minds of op- posite partizans, have contributed in no small degree to excite curiosity respecting those ruins, which have become doubly celebrated as her resi- dence ; and the Author has attempted to link together, in a historical chain, the principal events connected with those venerable structures, many of which he has personally visited."— ^i^^/^or's Preface. The Castles described in this Volume are — LINLITHGOW. STIRLING. EDINBURGH. CRAIGMILLAR. CROOKSTON. HERMITAGE. FALKLAND. BORTHWICK. BLACKCASTLE. DUNBAR. LOCHLEVEN. SHEFFIELD. FOTHERINGHAY. Besides additional notices, concerning other places which were the temporary residences of Queen Mary. As the Work is almost ready for the Press, and will he limited to a eer^ tain number of impressions, intendivg Subscribers are respectfully solicited to forward their names and address as early as possible, either to the Author, Roxburgh Terrace, Edinburghy or to the nearest Bookseller, Subscriptions received by Mr John Anderson Jun. 55. North Bridge ; Mr A. Hill, 60, Prince's Street, Edinburgh ; John Leslie, L Little Queen Street, Holborn, London ; Messrs. Watson, Smith, and Spark, Aberdeen 5 Mr Shearer, Stirling ; and the principal Booksellers. WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR. UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF5 AND DEDICATED BY ESPECIAL PERMISSION TO, HIS MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, KING WILLIAM IV. Just Published, Price Is, 6d, A New Edition of the Original Historical Description of the MONASTERY, CHAPEL ROYAL, and PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE. Embellished with a Correct Plan of the City of Edinburgh, and Ten Descriptive Engrav- ings. All the public Journals have concurred in pronouncing the Original History of Holyrood to be the best work on the sub- ject which has yet appeared. The following extracts, it is presumed, will sufficiently establish this fact : " Several Histories of the Abbey have already been published, but none can equal the present in correctness and variety of information, in graphic and interesting description, and in attention to every subject of impor- tance connected with the Palace. This work will be of incalculable bene- fit to strangers visiting Holyroodhouse, and of deep interest to the inha- bitants ; for the Author has seized and transmitted to his pages, not only all the facts and circumstances of historical research, but also many of the traditions and associations of the records of this ' ancient fane.' He seems to have given the subject his deep and undivided attention ; and the result of his labours is no less creditable to himself than important to the public." — Edinburgh Weekly Chronicle* " A History of Holyrood — ^its associations and traditions, is a deside- rated treasure, which, by the publication before us, is supplied.— On the whole, it is a most useful and interesting work. We can therefore honestly recommend it to the notice of our readers." — Edinburgh Examiner. " The Historical Description of the Chapel and Palace of Holyrood contains a variety of important and original information. Great additions have been made to the present Edition, among which is a spirited de- scription of his Majesty's Visit to Holyroodhouse. The Map of the City of Edinburgh forms also a very important addition to this interesting -^ub' McoXionJ*'* '•^Edinburgh Evening Courant* " It contains an historical account of all its topographies and localities in the first place, and of its relics and traditions in the second ; which renders it one of the most useful, important, and interesting works on the subject that has yet appeared." — Glasgow Courier. Lately Puhlishedy Price 35. Qtd, A New Edition of the Historical Description of the VISIT OF HIS LATE MAJESTY KING GEORGE IV. TO SCOTLAND, in 1822. Embellished with elegant Engrav- ings and Lithographic Views ; to be had separate, or connect- ed with Holyrood, " In anticipation of a vhlt ere long from his Most Gracious Majesty, King William, an Historical Account of the incidents attending the visit of his Most Gracious Majesty, King George, will be considered not unin* teresting. Mr MacUe has discharged his task loyally and faithfully.''— JEdinhurgh Literary Journal. This is the Second Edition of this interesting, and, in some respects, National work. The subject must at all times suggest feelings of loyalty and gratification in the hearts of our countrymen ; and the manner in which it has been executed by the Author merits great praise. — The book IS ornamented with a very fine vignette, and a beautiful view of the pirncipal entrance to Holyrood Palace," &c. — Edinburgh Evening Post. Lately Published^ The Historical Description of the CHAPEL and CASTLE OF ROSLIN, and the CAVERNS of HAWTHORNDEN. Embellished with elegant Engravings. Antique chronicles and legends old Of Roslin's ruin'd towers, he told. Anderson. The Historical Description of the Chapel and Castle of Roslin, arid the romantic scenery in the neighbourhood, is a Work not unworthy of its subjects It is embellished with spirited views of the Chapel and Cas- tle, and is as pretty a specimen of ornamental printing as has issued from the Ballantyne press. We think none of the many Summer visitors to that lovely spot should neglect to provide themselves with a copy of this Publication, which will supply them with new associations, and, conse- quently, with increased pleasure, in the course of their rambles." — Edin- hurgh Literary Journal. " This elegant little Work will be found interesting to the Antiqua- Han, but still more so to the Tourist, as a guide to the splendid Ruins of Roslin Castle and Chapel, as well as to the romantic beauties in the neigh- bourhood." — Caledonian Mercury. " We shall never look upon Roslin Chapel again but with deeper inte- rest, from Mr Mackie^s Description of iu^^ ^Edinburgh Weekly ChrO' Qiicle. i i I : a ♦ A H • H a H W M E 5d I'