Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2014 https://archive.org/details/galignanisnewparOOawga_0 GALIGNANI S PARIS GUIDE. PRINTED BY A. BELIN AND CO., 55, RUE STE. ANNE. 3ALI91T.A.1TX>3 NEW PARIS GUIDE, CONTAINING AN ACCURATE STATISTICAL AND HISTORICAL DESCRIPTION OF ALL THE INSTITUTIONS, PUBLIC EDIFICES, CURIOSITIES, ETC., OF THE CAPI- TAL ; AN ABSTRACT OF THE LAWS AFFECTING FOREIGNERS ; A COM- PARATIVE SCALE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES J VALUE OF COINS ; A TABLE OF FRENCH AND ENGLISH CUSTOMS' DUTIES; WITH IN- FORMATION FOR TRAVELLERS; AND A DIRECTORY OF PARISIAN BANKERS, TRADESMEN, ETC. TO WHICH IS ADDED A DESCRIPTION OF THE ENVIRONS. THE WHOLE COMPILED FROM THE BEST AUTHORITIES, CAREFULLY VERIFIED BY PERSONAL INSPECTION, AND ARRANGED ON AN ENTIRELY NEW PLAN. Price WITH A MAP, 6 FRANCS. WITH A MAP AND 59 PLATES, 9 FRANCS. ' PARIS, PUBLISHED BY A. AND W. G ALIGN ANI AND Co. RUE VIVIENNE, NO. 18. AUGUST, 1838, in in r \ PREFACE. In the composition of the following work great care has been taken to derive all the facts and circumstances slated in it, not only from the books of greatest authority, (1) and from long personal experience of Paris, but also to verify the whole by the latest possible inspection of all the buildings, monu- ments, institutions, etc., contained in the capital. To persons acquainted with the nature of the subject, it will not appear undue arrogance to assert, that the Guides hitherto composed in the French language are entirely unworthy of the matter they profess to treat of; and it may also be confidently said, that in this present work will be found an immense quantity of valuable and interesting information, condensed into a smaller compass than has hitherto been attempted, in effecting which neither time nor expense have been spared. In describing Paris, its institutions, and its buildings, a plan has been adopted, which has been deemed best calculated not (i) The principal works of authority on the History and Antiqui- ties of Paris are the following:— Felib ien et Lobineau y Hist, de Paris, 5 vols, folio; Sauval, Antiquite's de Parish vols, folio; St. Victor, Hist, de Paris, 8 vols. 8vo ; Dulaure, Hist, de Paris, io vols. 8vo; Gilbert, Hist, de VEglise Metrop< de IV. Dame, i vol. 4to ; Bouillard, Hist, de V Abbaye de St. Germain des Pres, i vol. folio; Felibien, Hist, de V Abb aye de St. Denis, i vol. 4to. But a most excellent compendium of the essence of the above-mentioned works, embodied in a form that is peculiarly suited to the English reader, and at much greater length than is compatible with the limits of a portable Guide, is to be found in the History of Paris 9 3 vols. 8vo, price 24fr., published by Messrs. A. and W. Galignani and Co., and to this book all, who may be induced by a perusal of the following work to study the antiquities of Paris at greater length, are referred. PREFACE. only to increase the simplicity and perspicuity of the account, but also to save the visitor much useless expenditure of time and exertion. Whatever relates to the institutions and ge- neral statistics of Paris has been put into the Introduction of this "book ; while each building is described in the arrondissc- ment in which it occurs, and the , arrondissement itself is placed in its regular order among the rest of the same divi- sions of the capital. The visitor is supposed to start from the central point of the Place Yendome, to study his map of Paris with care, and then to go through the arrondissements, inspecting their contents in the order in which they are ar- ranged in this work, or omitting some according to his taste and inclination. By so doing he will see everything in a comparatively short space of time, and will pass over nothing that is really worthy of being examined by the tourist. By a reference to the index, where all the objects described in the body of the work are carefully classified, the reader may easily see, at one glance, the whole of any particular class of things of which he may be in search. There are, however, many persons who visit Paris for only a few days, and who therefore have not time to inspect all the arrondissements of the town in the detailed manner wherein they are here treated. To such persons a list of places that are absolutely indis- pensable to be seen, by any one who would at all wish to know Paris, will not be unacceptable; and it is therefore here subjoined, with a general reference at the same time to the article headed 6i Stranger's Diary/ 1 in the English news- paper, Galignani's Messenger, which is taken in at all the principal cafes, restaurants, etc., or may be subscribed for by the day or month, and where whatever is to be seen on the PREFACE. V day of publication, and the following one, is always men- tioned, with all necessary information concerning it, LIST OF PLACES THAT MUST BE SEEN BY A STRANGER, Palace of the Tuileries, and Triumphal Arch. Louvre, Pictures, Statues, etc. Palace and Galleries off the Palais Royal. Triumphal Arch de l'Etoile. Church of the Madeleine. Chapelle Expiatoire. Column of Place Venddme. Bibliotheque du Roi. Bourse. Church of Notre Dame de Loreltc. Abattoir de Popincourt. Pere La Chaise. - Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. Cathedral Church of Notre Dame. La Morgue. Pantheon. Church of St. Etienne du Mont. Jardin desPlantes. Halle aux Vins. The Mint, Ecole des Beaux Arts. Church of St. Germain des Pres. v Palace of Luxembourg, Picture Gallery, and Chamber of Peers, xf Church of St . Sulpice. Musee d'Artillerie. Palais du Quai d'Orsay. Obelisk of Luxor. Chamber of Deputies. Invalides. Halle auBle. Church of St. Eustache. St. Cloud. Versailles. Sevres Porcelain Manufactory. Abbey of St. Denis. v The stranger in Paris is also strongly advised to attend high mass at the churches of Notre Dame or St. Roch, at 11 any Sunday morning, if he would witness an imposing spectacle, or be gratified with some excellent music. vi PREFACE* As much time may be saved by knowing the days and hours when the various public institutions, museums, libra- ries, etc., can be visited, the reader is particularly recom- mended to consult the chapter on Public Institutions, p. 79. The liberality of the French nation and government in giving every facility to foreigners, desirous of visiting the public institutions of the capital and the country, is too well known to need any praise. The right way to proceed, for a stranger desirous of obtaining permission to visit any place for which a special ticket is necessary, is to address a letter to the pro- per person, who is indicated in each case throughout the work, in the following terms ; taking care at the same time either to leave it at his residence, or to send it, free of any expense, by post. He will then receive in a day or two the special permission desired. M. [ giving his title, etc.] Tai Vhonneur de vous prier & avoir la bonte" de me faire adresser un billet pour [name number of persons], pour visiter [insert name of place]. Mon sejour a Paris etant tres-court, je vous serai fort oblige de vouloir bien m'envoyer ce billet le plus tot possible. Je vous prie, M. ~ — [repeat title, etc.] d'agreer d'avance mes remercimenls en meme temps que mes salutations les plus empresses. [Sign name, with address very clearly written.] To this it may be added, that while a due degree of caution is observed in granting leave to visit the interior of the pri- sons, the hospitals and other charitable institutions are thrown ©pen, not only to the curious, but also to the necessitous stranger, with a liberality tbatcannot be loo highly commended. PREFACE. Yll It has been often remarked, that the English stranger, on arriving in Paris, is at a loss to choose among the multiplicity of good things presented to his taste by the cartes of the restau- rants at which he dines, some of which contain three or four hundred dishes. The following brief list, therefore, of some of the better — and including several of the more decidedly national — of the French dishes, will be well received, it is hoped, by the gastronomic traveller. Soups (Potage). A la Julienne. Au macaroni. Au riz et a la pure'e. Puree aux croutons. Meats (Yiande). Beefsteak, au beurre d'anchois. Filet de bceuf, au vin de Madere. Fricandeau, sauce tomate. Riz, pique a la financiere. Ditto, a la poulette. Tete de veau, en matelotte. Tete de veau, en tortue. Cotelettes de mouton, a la Sou- bise. Ditto, sautees aux truffes. Rognons, au vin de Champagne. Poultry (Volatile). Ciiapon, au grossel. Poulet, a la Marengo. Ditto, en fricassee. Ditto, a la Tartare. Ditto, en Mayonnaise. Ditto, saute aux champignons. Supreme de volaille. Goquille a la financiere. Croquettes de volaille. Salade de volaille. Ditto a la Mayonnaise. Ragout a la financiere. Canneton de Rouen roti. Foie gras, en caisse. Game (Gibier). Perdreau, en salmi aux truffes. 1 Caille, a la financiere aux truffes. Ditto, roti, I Ditto, roti. Pastry (Patisserie). Vol-au-vent a la financiere. Ditto, de saumon. Ditto, de ris de veau aux truffes. Ditto* deturbot a la beehameHe. Vol-au-vent, de filet de volaille aux truffes. Pates de foie gras. viii PREFACE. Fish (Poisson). Turbot, sauce aux huitres. Ditto, sauce aux capres. Saumon, sauce aux capres. Ditto, a la Genevoise. Truite, en Mayonnaise. Eperlan, au gratin. Ditto, frit. Sole, au gratin. Ditto, a la Normande. Filet de sole, a la maitre d'hotel. Matelotte de carpe et d'anguille. Anguiile, a la Tartare. Bechamelle de poisson. Coquille aux huitres. Side Dishes (Entremets). Coquille aux champignons. Macaroni, augratin. Choux-fleurs, au Parmesan. Ditto. Beignets, de pomme. Ditto, d'abricots. Omelette soufflee. Ditto, aux confitures. Charlotte de pomme, Omelette, aux fines herbes. Artichauts, a la barigoule. Ditto, frits. '(Entremets au Sucre). Charlotte, aux confitures. Ditto, russe aux fraises. Croquets de riz. Meringue, aux confitures. Ditto, glacee. Wines (Vins). Red. Beaune. Pomard. Nuits. Volnay. Chambertin. Romance. Hermitage. Cote-Rotie. Medoc. Chateau Margaux. Pichon. Mouton. Laffitte. White. Chablis. Meursalt. 4 Saint Perray. Hermitage. Sauterne. Champagne. Sweet Wines. Lunel. Frontignan. Liquors. Eau de vie ; Kirclvwasser ; Anisette ; Cura$oa ; Marasquin ; Ab- s inthe ; Creme de Mofca ; Creme de Noyaux ; Creme de Cafe ; Huile de Yanille; Huile de Rose ; Liqueur des lies. The engravings that embellish this work have been executed by Mr* Le Petit, an English artist now residing in Paris, and do infinite credit to him. NEW PARIS GUIDE, MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. Passports. — Before leaving England it is indispensably necessary to be furnished with a passport, which is to be pro- cured from the French ambassador* at the office, 4, Poland- street, from 12 to 4 o'clock daily. The name of the appli- cant, his address, and the road he intends to lake, must be stated, and on the following day the passport will be delivered, gratis. The hours of application are from 1 to 3 o'clock. Passports may also be procured from the French consuls at Dover, Brighton, Portsmouth, Southampton, and other British sea-ports; but at these places there will be a charge of 5s. On arriving at a French port, the passports are de- manded by the police-officers, and immediately sent on to Paris ; a temporary passport, for which 2 fr. are charg- ed, is then given to the tourist, and will serve him till he reaches the capital. It will sometimes be demanded and examined, as he travels, at some of the principal towns. A few days after reaching Paris, the temporary passport must be presented at the prefecture of police, Quai des Orfevres, where the original one will be returned. If only a short slay is to be made in Paris, the passport should be countersigned immediately, and the next place intended to be visited should be specified in it ; if a long one, the original passport can be left at the prefecture till within a few days of xleparture, or a permis de sejour may be obtained. In his excursions through Paris, however, the tourist will do well to carry his passport about him, as it will obtain him admission to several museums, and may be very useful as. a measure of precaution on scyeral s muoiHjCTio.v. occasions. Previous to leaving Paris the passport must be sent to the British ambassador, 39, rue du Faubourg St. Honore, to be countersigned, from 11 to 1. It is then to be taken to the prefecture of police, open from 10 till 4, where it is again countersigned; and where the traveller will be recommended to take it to the office of the minister for foreign affairs, Boulevard des Capucines, open from 3 to 5, where a fee of 10 fr. is demanded. We cannot avoid recommending the traveller not to comply w ith this injunction, (1) as it^is a regulation that is not enforced, and of which the government ought to be ashamed. Persons travelling to Germany, the Netherlands, Switzerland, and particularly Italy, must have their passports countersigned by the Ambassadors or Charges d'Affaires of all the states through which they intend to pass. This is important. For their residences see Directory. Conveyances. — Correct information respecting convey- ances to France may be obtained at the following places in London : — Cross Keys, Wood-street, Cheapside ; Spread Eagle, Gracechurch- street ; White Bear, Picadilly ; Bell and Crown, Holborn ; Blossom's Inn, Lawrence-lane ; Golden Cross, Charing-cross ; Green Man and Still, Oxford-street • Bolt-in-Tun, Fleet-street; Begent-circus, Piccadilly ; 69, Lombard-street ; 56, Haymarket ; and at the packet-offices in the neighbourhood of the Tower. Here places may be secured to Dover, Calais, Boulogne, Dunkirk, Ostend, Paris, Brussels, etc. The coaches leave London, every morning and evening, for Dover, Margate, Bamsgate, Brighton, and Southampton. From Calais the mail starts every night from Mem ice's Hotel • Laffitte and Co.'s diligence from 9, rue Neuve ; messagerics royalSs start from 14, rue de la Mer, for Paris twice a-day. Steam-packets are always ready for the conveyance of pas- sengers who are booked throughout, but persons desirous of stopping on the road are allowed to do so, and resume their journey at pleasure, without additional expense, provided it ie mentioned when the place is taken and if there is room in the diligence; but there are many inconveniences attending this advantage, such as the being detained several days. Persons "Who have a dislike to travelling in the night can start by the (i) Unless in the instance where the traveller may have lost his original passport, and obtained another in Paris in order to return borne ; in this case it is essential that the passport be carried to the foreign-office, otherwise the bearer will run the risk of being detained on the frontier, and prevented from embarking. CONVEYANCES. coaches which leave London in the morning; they then sleep at Dover; cross the water in the middle of the day; sleep also at Calais or Boulogne ; and depart by the coaches on the following morning. Those who wish to save time should travel hy the evening coaches to Dover, where they will arrive three or four hours before the packet sails. The price of places varies according to the season of the year and the opposition on the road. Steam-packets leave the Tower-stairs for Calais and Bou- logne two or three times a- week ; for Dover, Rainsgate, and Margate daily, corresponding with packets leaving those ports for the coast of France. From Dover steam-packets cross the channel daily to Calais and Boulogne. During the sum- mer, steam-packets sail twice or thrice a-week from London to Havre, from Brighton to Dieppe and Havre, and from Southampton to Havre and the Channel islands, St. Malo, etc. The most direct and commodious way of proceeding to Paris is by the steam-packet from London to Calais or Bou- logne, and thence by diligence to Paris; the most beautiful and the most agreeable is by Southampton and H&vre, thence by a steam-packet up the Seine to Rouen, and from that city by a diligence to the capital along the lower road. There are steam-packets that sail between Rouen and Maisons-sur-Seine, about 4 leagues from Paris, where they stop on account of the windings of the river. From hence passengers are con- veyed by diligence to Paris ; but this line of communication is open only during part of the year. All parcels sent to the Continent must have annexed to them a written declaration of their contents and value, with the name and address of the person sending them. The diligences in general carry 15 passengers ; there are some of them, however, that carry fifteen inside and 3 outside passengers, besides the conducteur, who corresponds to an English guard. The conductor pays for the passenger the perquisite to the postilions at each stage, and receives, at the end of the journey, the whole amount, which is charged at the rate of 2 sous per 6 or 8 miles, exclusive of his own fee, which is about double that sum. Each passenger is allowed from 40 to 50 lbs. of luggage ; above that amount is charged by weight. It is customary, on being booked, to pay one half of the fare, and a receipt is given indicating the day and hour of departure. The places are all numbered, and when the traveller takes a place, the number of the seat he is t j 4 INTRODUCTION. occupy is mentioned on the receipt. The conductor always takes care that every traveller shall occupy his place, by call- ing each in his turn. Malles-postes leave the post-office in Paris every evening at 6 o'clock for the following places : — Besancon, Bordeaux, Brest, Caen, Calais, Clermont-Ferrand, H^vre, Lille, Lyon, Marseille, Mezieres, Nantes, Rouen, Strasbourg and Toulouse. Each malle-poste, except the light ones for Calais and H&vre, carries 3 passengers besides the conducteur ; the charge is 1 fr. 50 c. for each poste ; and 50 lbs. of luggage is allowed to each passenger. A complete list of conveyances from Paris to the principal places in France is too long for insertion in this work. Dili- gences to all parts of France and foreign countries may be found, and all necessary information obtained, at the office of the messageries royales, 22, rue Notre Dame des Victoires, near the Exchange ; at the messageries generates of Messrs. Laffitte, Caillard, and Co., 18, rue de Grenelle St. Honore, and 130, rue St. Honore, and at the various coach-offices in the rue du Bouloy, rue and faubourg St. Denis, etc. Posting. — The carriages which are hired for travelling post, and which will not contain more than two persons, are generally called cabriolets. They have only two wheels, and are drawn by two horses. As a carriage cannot, in France, be changed at every stage, the traveller must hire a cabriolet, or any other conveyance, for the whole journey. The charge varies ; but one from Calais to Paris may generally be had for about 100 fr. Other carriages, called caliches or berlines, on four wheels, which will carry three, four, or six persons, may be had for 120 or 130 fr. Carriages for long journeys are much more reasonable, and should be hired at so much per day, generally about 7 to 10 fr. In hiring a carriage, it is important to have written on the receipt, that all repairs which may be required on the road shall be paid for by the person who lets it, and to get receipts for all such disburse- ments. On arriving at Paris or elsewhere, a hired carriage should be immediately sent according to the direction received on engaging it, in order to avoid disputes. Posting in France being under the direction of the govern- ment, there is only one place at each stage or in each town, for changing horses. This place is seldom an inn ; but the pos- tilion will conduct the traveller to any place he is ordered. The business of posting is well managed, The postilions do POSTING REGULATIONS. 5 not drive so fast as in England ; but there is no danger what- ever of their being drunk, or racing against each other. There are no turnpike-gates in the kingdom ; and the charge of post- ing and paying the postilion is fixed. They seldom put more than three horses to a carriage, and generally all abreast, with one postilion, except when the carriage has a pole ; it then has 5pur horses and two postilions, it is therefore advisable for travellers who take their own carriage to have shafts instead of a pole, as this makes a considerable difference in the expense of posting. In some places where the roads are bad, or the distances great, an extra horse is obligatory, except for certain carriages to which the extra horse could not be yoked without danger ; the traveller may then agree with the post-master to have stronger horses instead of an extra one, the charge for which he nevertheless pays. The post-houses being under the control of the government, a stranger can seldom be imposed upon, as a book is published every year by authority called the Livre des Pastes, which has an alphabetical list of all the post-roads in France, with their principal communications, and the number of posts on each road. Affixed to it is a map of France, on which the posts and half posts are likewise all carefully marked. The Livre, des Posies also contains the rules and regulations for posting, some of which we shall here insert, together with tables of the rate of posting, for the information of travellers. This book, nevertheless, will be found of the greatest utility, and will prevent imposition. It can be procured at Messrs. A. and W. Galignani and Co.'s; price 5 fr. Regulations relative to posting. — Post-masters appointed by government are alone permitted to furnish horses to travellers. — The post-master must constantly reside at or near the post- house. — A postilion under 1(5 years of age cannot be hired.— Travellers are requested to enter every complaint they may have against the postilion or master, in a book which is kept at each post-house, and is regularly examined by the kr tors. — The post-master is answerable for any accident that may occur from the carelessness of the postilion, or restiveness of the horses.— Travellers are supplied in the exact order in which they, or their couriers, arrive: no exception being made, except in favour of mails or couriers with government dispatches. — A carriage drawn by 3 horses can carry only 140 lbs. of luggage— 100 lbs. behind, and 40 lbs. before. — The charge for the distance from one post-house to another 1. 6 INTRODUCTION, must always be paid beforehand.— -No post-carriage may pasS another on the road, unless some accident happens to that which goes before. — Each post shall be run in an hour. The rate of posting, as fixed by the government, is 1 fr. 50 c. per post for each horse : and as many horses are paid for as there are persons in the carriage, except in certain^ 5 cases specified in the following table. On arriving at certain privi- leged places called " posies royales," and on departing from them the first post is paid double. Supplementary charges for J£ , % or whole posts are made at certain towns, in consequence of the road being very hilly, or for other causes ; and sometimes an extra horse called a cheval de renfort is put on, on account of the nature of the country. The remuneration of the pos- tilions, as fixed by the legal tariff, is 15 sous per post: but A 40 sous are generally given, unless there is reason to be dissa- tisfied with the postilion. The post, being calculated at 2 leagues, is generally equal to 5 English miles. The following table shows the number of horses required for cabriolets and four-wheel carriages with shafts, called limonieres, and for four-wheel carriages with poles ; and the charge per post. No. of I Postilions Charge | Charge | for | for | Horses. | Postilions | Sum Total. or 2 3 or 2 3 4 1 1 1 Cabriolet or Chaise, i | 3fr. oe. | i | 4fr. 5oc. | Calasli with one seat and pole. 2fr. 2IT» i 2fr. 2fr. 4fr. ith two seats and shafts. I | 4fr. 5oc. J 2fr. 3fr. 4fr. 6fr. Carriage i ? 2,or3 | 3 i V* One franc extra paid for each person exceeding Berline, or carriage with two seats and pole. 1,2,3,0141 4 I 2 I *• I it- ! 5 | 4 | 2 | 7fr. 4fr- I 6 | 6 | 2 | gfr. I 4&. I One franc per post extra must be paid for each person ex- ceeding six ; more than six horses cannot be put to a berline. One child under 10 years old is not reckoned. Two children of 10 years and under reckon for one person, except when 5fr. | 6fr.5oc* 5fr. 6fr. iofr. 6fr.5oc. 3. iofr. 1 1 fr. i3fr. Carriages, hackney coaches, etc* 1 one oi* both are under 3 years. Ten sous is paid for each child of 10 and under, above 2, except under 3 years old. A slow but pleasant mode of travelling for some persons, is to make a bargain with a man called a voiturier, who keeps carriages and horses, and will convey travellers with the same carriage and horses to any place, and defray all their expenses on the road, for a fixed sum. The inconve- nience of this mode of conveyance is, that the traveller must set off every morning very early, and stop, in the middle of the day, for at least two hours, to refresh the horses. The distance performed daily is from 35 to 45 miles. Such car- riages will carry a great deal of luggage, and are very conve- nient for a family. The expense is generally a guinea a-day for the journey, and as much for the voiturier to return; so that, if the journey lasts five days, the expense will be about 10 guineas; but different bargains may be made in different places. Return carriages of this description may sometimes be met with on reasonable terms. The driver always expects one or two francs a-day. Another way of travelling in France is to ride on horseback, which is called d franc etrier. The rider must then have a postilion to attend him. The luggage is carried in saddle- bags, by the traveller's horse, and the postilion will also carry a portmanteau behind him, if it does not weigh more than 30 pounds. The postilion always rides before the traveller, who is not allowed on any account to pass him. If the party con- sists of more than three persons, there must be two postilions to conduct them. We would not, however, recommend this way of travelling to any one not fond of rough riding. Carriages, Hackney Coaches, Cabriolets. — Voitures de remise (glass coaches) may be hired by the day or month, at from 20 to 30 fr. a-day, or from 400 to 500 fr. a-month. They will go a certain distance out of Paris, but must be back again before midnight, unless a particular agreement be made. In the hackney coaches, called fiacres, a drive from any part of Paris to another without stopping is 30 sous, from six in the morning to midnight ; but they may be taken by the hour, and then the first hour is 45 sous, and each fol- lowing hour 35. It is customary to give the coachman a few sous above his fare. From midnight to six in the morn- ing the fares are 2 fr. a-drive, and 3fr. an -hour. All ve- hicles are numbered both within and without; and it is advi- sable to take notice of the number, in case of any acci- 9 INTRODUCTION. dent or insolence of the driver. Immediate redress, and with little trouble, can always be had at the Bureau de la Police pour les voitures publiques, 31, rue Gucnegaud. It is unnecessary to make a personal application, as a complaint by letter is promptly attended to. Citaclines, Lutcciennes , etc, as they are sometimes called, are small chariots with one horse, and hold two persons, and sometimes three. Their charges are for a drive 25 sous, first hour 34 sous, each following 27 sous. Cabriolets hold two persons besides the driver. They ge- nerally go faster than the fiacres, but their cover is not al- ways a shelter against rain. The charge for a drive is 20 sous, from six in the morning to midnight; the first hour 35, and each following hour 30 sous ; but 30, 40, and 45, are generally given, if they drive quick. From midnight to six in the morning, the drive is 35 sous and the hour 2 fr. 10 sous. There are also cabriolets de la regie or de remise, for which 30 sous are paid for the drive ; but by the hour the charge is 40 sous. After midnight the fares are 35 sous a drive, and 50 sous an hour. By a recent regulation of the prefect of police, cabriolets are to be hired for fractions of an hour ; but in that case they must have a plate with a notice to this effect affixed in a conspicuous place. As a measure of precaution, on hiring these vehicles, it is necessary to men- tion either a la course or a Vheure; otherwise the driver can demand the price of a course for each stoppage. In the latter instance, the vehicle is at the disposal of the person hiring it. To avoid disputes, the traveller should show the driver the time by his watch. After the first hour, the charge is made for the fractions of time, and not for full hours. Besides those for the interior service of Paris, there are cabriolets on a different construction for the environs. These will commonly hold nine persons, and the driver sits on a kind of box outside. They have no fixed charge, which how- ever is very moderate, except on particular occasions, when they increase their demand. The cabriolets for Versailles, in which a place costs 25 or 30 sous, for St. Germain, St. Cloud, and all the spots situated to the west of Paris, are stationed at the extremity of the quay of the Tuileries, near the Pont Louis XVI. Those for St. Denis, at 12 or 15 sous, for the valley of Montmorency, and for all places to the north of Paris, are in the rue d'Enghienor St. Denis, near the Porte St. Denis. Those for Vincennes, 10 sous, and ail the east, Place de la OMNIBUSES. STEA3MT BOATS, POST OFFICE. 0 Bastille. Those for Arcueil, Sceaux, and all the south, are in the rue d'Enfer. There are vehicles moreover that set out at fixed hours for Versailles, St. Germain, and other towns near Paris. (1) They are very convenient. It is best to take a place in them beforehand. Omnibus.— There are numerous sets of omnibuses estab- lished in Paris, which go to all parts of the town, and at all hours between 8 in the morning and 11 at night. They are called by different names according to the different com- panies or proprietors to whom they belong. Their price is fixed at 6 sous, for all distances ; and all of them correspond with si- milar vehicles crossing their own lines, by means of which per- sons wishing to deviate from the direct line of communica- tion may do so, without any additional charge being made. The fullest details of all these vehicles, and their lines of route and correspondances , which are frequently changing, will be found in a small publication sold for 3 sous at all their offices. Goches de Haute-Seine. — Passage-boats, called coches d'eau, are established on the upper part of the river, to con- vey travellers or goods to any village or town on the banks of the Seine or Marne, and into Champagne or Burgundy. Their offices are at No. 1, rue Bretonvilliers, Isle Saint Louis. They set out from the Port St. Bernard at 7 in the morning in summer, and at 8 in winter. They travel however very slowly, and never have good company on board. Steam-Boats. — Several steamers leave the Port de la Greve for Montereau, everyday during summer and vice versa by Choisy, Villeneuve,Chatillon, Soisy-sous-fitiolles, Corbeil, St. Port, Melun, and Valvin. They carry only passengers. The charge is moderate. A steam-boat leaves for Rouen every day in summer. The office is at 4, rue de Rivoli. Post-Office. — The administration of the postage of letters is conducted at the General Post-office in the rues Jean Jacques Rousseau and Coq Heron ; at 9 auxiliary bureaux, called bu- reaux d'arrondissement, situated as follows : — 1, rue Lenoir St. Honore ; 13, rue St. Louis, an Marais ; 4, rue des Vieilles Audriettes; 23, rue de l'Echiquier ; 24, rue Deseze ; 2, rue de Beaune ; rue St. Andre des Arts; 35, rue des Fosses St. Victor ; and 4, Place de la Bourse : at 225 smaller offices dependent on the preceding, called Boites aux lettres; and (i) The places from which they start may be found by referring to Enyirojss or Paris* i 0 INTRODUCTION. at 4 privileged bureaux: the bureau de la Maison du Roi, 243, Place du Palais Royal; the bureau pres la Ghambre des Pairs, 19, rue de Vaugirard; the bureau pres la Chambre des Deputes, Palais Bourbon; and the letter- box at the Exchange. The Petite Poste was established in 1760. The number of boxes is 225. The letters for Paris and the immediate neighbourhood are collected and distributed every two hours, from seven in the morning to seven in the evening inclusive. The charge for a letter by the Petite Poste, not exceeding the weight allowed, is three sous. The last collection of letters for the day is made, at the bureaux, at seven o'clock; at the bureaux d'arrondissemeiit, at half-past eight ; these are dis- tributed the next morning at about 7 o'clock. Letters are sent off two or three times a-day to the communes of the department of the Seine, and others within 10 or 12 leagues of Paris. This service is called the service de la Banlieue. The towns which receive two mails a-day, dispatch two, which reach Paris at 11, and 4 in the afternoon. The places which receive only one extra mail, send off one posted at their re- spective towns at 11 a.m., and which arrives at four in the afternoon. Paid letters, for foreign countries, and for the departments, are received at the bureaux d'arrondissementiilllhvee o'clock, and at the general post-office till four o'clock. Unpaid letters, for the departments and for those foreign countries to which the payment of postage is not obligatory, are received at the Boites mix lettres till three ; at the bureaux d'arron- dissement till half-past three, and at the Exchange and General post-office till five. Letters, called Lettres de Bourse, destined for the departments or foreign countries, are received (whether paid or unpaid) at the general post-office till five o'clock. These letters must be lithographed and be folded in a par- ticular manner. On Sundays and holidays, when the exchange is shut, the general post-office is closed at two o'clock instead of five ; letters for foreign countries and the departments are received till two o'clock at the general post-office and 4, Place de la Bourse, and till half-past one at all the bureaux. The following is a list of the foreign countries for which letters must be paid as far as the French frontier : — the French colonies; the United States; Spain and Portugal with their colonies; Bohemia; Gallicia ; Moldavia; Upper and Lower Austria, with the dependent countries ; Turkey and its HOST OFFICE. 11 European possessions ; the islands of the Archipelago ; and the Levant. Letters for England are sent from Paris daily by Estafette, and arrive in London the next day but one. Letters from England are sent to Paris by the same means, and in the same time ; and are received every day except Tuesday, in consequence of the London post-office being closed on Sun- day. The treaty made between the governments of France and England, in 1836, has fixed the following regulations for the conveyance of letters between the two countries: — Letters may be sent from France to England without pay- ing any postage in advance, or it may be paid either partially or entirely. The postage from Paris to the frontier of Eng- land is 1 franc, and from the frontier to London, lOd. ; so that persons in Paris may, on putting letters into the post at Paris, pay either Ifr., leaving their correspondents in London to pay the lOd. ; or may pay 2 fr., in which case their letters will be delivered in London without any charge; or they may put them into the post-office in Paris without any pay- ment at all, in which case those to whom they are ad- dressed in London will be charged Is. 8d. Persons living at a distance from the capitals of each country have to pay, in addition, either on sending or receiving letters, the usual inland postage. Letters intended to be franked, partially or entirely, must be delivered at the general post-office, or at the post-office, 4, Place de la Bourse, by 4 or at any of the bureaux d'arrondissement till 3; those not franked are re- ceived in the bureaux d'arrondissement till half-past 3, or at the general post-office, or 4, Place de la Bourse, till 5.(1) The inhabitants of the two countries may send from one country to the other letters termed registered or recom- mended letters (money letters); the postage on which is dou- ble and must always be paid in advance. This may also be done for France and some parts of the continent. Letters and packets containing patterns of merchandize are also ad- mitted to this privilege, and are conveyed at reduced rates of postage. Local correspondence can be transmitted between Brighton and Dieppe, Southampton and Havre, in addition to Dover and Calais. (i) The thick letter paper generally used in England is liable to an additional postage in France, according to its excess above the limited weight in tlais country. 12 INTRODUCTION. Letters for Paris, for France, or for foreign countries, can be paid for at any offices except those of the petite poste, and the Exchange. It is not permitted to enclose coin in letters ; but at the general post-office and the bureaux d'arrondissement money for any part of France is received, on paying five per cent., and seven sous for a draft on a stamp, when the sum exceeds 10 fr. A foreigner may have his letters directed to him poste res- tante, Paris, or at any other town where he intends to go. On applying at the post-office, and showing his passport or card, the letter will be delivered, but the best way is to have them addressed to the care of a friend, or some established house. There is at the post-office the Bureau de Rebut, where let- ters misaddressed or unclaimed remain a year and a day; after which they are opened, and, according to their contents, destroyed or returned to the address of the writer. Journals, periodical publications, and other works, are sent under a band by post, at the rate of one sous per sheet for France, and two sous for foreign countries, where a similar arrangement exists. The bureau, which is a special one at the general post-office, is open from 9 to 1 ; on Sundays and holidays till noon. The mails leave Paris daily at six o'clock in the evening. Information concerning hotels, etc. — Travellers will find, in every part of Paris, comfortable lodgings, which may be had by the night, week, or month ; but in the great hotels apartments are seldom let for less than a week. In the spa- cious and elegant hotels in the fashionable quarters of Paris, the charge for apartments is high, but in the faubourgs, and the interior of the city, it is moderate. An agreement should always be made (even for a single night) previous to taking apartments in any hotel; the price of a bed-room for one night varies from 2 to 5 francs. Furnished apartments may also be had in private houses, and there are several boarding- houses upon different scales of charge, both French and Eng- lish. Unfurnished apartments may also be easily obtained, but not for less than three months. Furniture may be pro- cured from upholsterers, or purchased cheap at second hand shops. To furnish is perhaps the most economical pin a for those who intend to make a long stay in Paris. (1) In whatever (i) For laws and regulations concerning the letting and hiring of apartments, etc., as far as they affect foreigners, see Laws of Frame Arr ecxjjsg British Resipejsxs Qkey's * < Digest," 8yo. tfu HOTELS. CAFES. RESTAURATEURS. 13 hotel the traveller may fix himself, it is not necessary that he should take his meals there ; if he pays for his apartment, it is all that is required. He may either breakfast and dine at a cafe or restaurant, or order what he pleases to be sent to his own room. There are generally coffee-houses, and restau- rateurs and traiteurs, in the hotel itself or in the neighbour- hood, from which a stranger may be supplied with every thing he needs. But it is more advantageous for a single person to resort to the restaurateur' s for dinner, though a family or a party are often well served at home. The restaurateurs and traiteurs charge rather more for the dinners they send out than for those served at home. To an English traveller no hotel in Paris offers so many advantages as Meurice's 42, rue de Rivoli. It is situated in a fine and agreeable spot, facing the palace and garden of the Tuileries. Apartments may be had by the day, week, or month ; breakfasts are served in the coffee-room or in private apartments, and visitors may dine at the table-d'hote or in their own rooms. A list is pre- sented which contains the charge for every article, servants, etc. The bill is sent in every week ; the linen is washed three miles from Paris with soap, and not beaten or brushed, as is the custom generally in France. The greatest regularity prevails in forwarding and delivering letters, and informa- tion of every kind is furnished. In this hotel there is an office for changing money; and confidential couriers, interpreters, return carriages for Calais, Boulogne, and all parts of the Continent, etc. may be obtained. For other hotels and boarding-houses, see Directory. Cafes. — At these places of public resort, coffee, chocolate, tea, ices, liqueurs, etc., are to be obtained; as well as de- jeuners a la fourchette, either hot or cold, with all sorts of substantial food and wines ; but dinners and suppers are generally to be had only at the restaurateurs'. They are frequented by ladies as well as gentlemen, except those where estaminet is written up, and where smoking is allowed. The charges are nearly the same in all, and every thing relating to them is generally conducted with cleanliness, order, and ele- gance. For a list of the principal cafes, see Directory. Restaurateurs and Traiteurs. — Formerly, privileged persons alone could keep eating-houses in Paris. In 1765 a cook freed the public from this restraint, and having prepared a room for refreshments, placed over the door the following parody of a passage in Scripture " Yenite ad me omaes 2 14 ixxaoDucTKm. qui slomacho laboratis, et ego restaurabo vos." This attempt was successful ; and afterwards, when the Revolution brought many strangers to Paris, and the domestic habits of the Pa- risians were altered, these establishments increased every year, and are now to be found in all parts of Paris. In the restaurants there is generally presented a bill of fare called la carte, with the price of every article, and some of these bills contain upwards of 300 dishes. Ladies frequent the restau- rants, as well as the cafes. In these houses there are gene- rally private rooms called cabinets particuliers, in which two friends or a party may dine in private. Besides the principal and second-rate restaurateurs, where the dinner is a la carle, there are other houses where dinners are served for a fixed sum per head. At the best of these houses a plentiful dinner, including wine, may be had for two francs. In the vicinity of the Palais Royal, however, and indeed in most parts of Paris, a dinner may be had for 30, 25, and even 22 sous. To give an idea how luxury and economy may be combined, it is only necessary to observe, that soup, 3 dishes at choice, a des- sert, bread, and a portion of wine, may be had for 22 sous. There is also another class of cooks in Paris, called traiteurs, or petty restaurateurs, whose principal business is to send out dishes, or dinners ready dressed to order. A family residing in lodgings, or at an hotel, will find it the cheapest mode to make a bargain with the traiteur, to be supplied for a fixed period, with a certain number of dishes daily, at any hour agreed upon. A person may also dine at some of these places, but it is not considered comme il fant. The restaurants are nearly as numerous and as splendidly adorned as the cafes. To the latter it is customary to retire immediately after din- ner, to take a demi-tasse of coffee, and a petit verre de liqueur, instead of sitting over the bottle as in England. Coffee may, however, be had at the restaurants. For lists of restaurateurs, see Directory. Reading-Rooms and Circulating Libraries. — There are many establishments of this kind in Paris ; but the most distinguished and most frequented by Frenchmen and foreign- ers, particularly Englishmen and Americans, is that of Messrs. A. and W. Gaiignani and Co., No. 18, rue Vivienne (bottom of the court-yard), which is conducted on a most extensive scale. The reading-rooms are spacious and handsome, fur- nished with maps, and are well lighted and aired. The tables are covered with all the periodical publications worthy SERVANTS. MONETARY SYSTEM. 15 of notice, the newspapers of America, and every European nation, pamphlets, monthly and quarterly magazines, army and navy lists, etc., with use of upwards of 30,000 volumes in the English, French, Italian, German, and Spanish languages. Contiguous to the rooms is a garden, for the use of the sub- scribers. The philosopher, the politician, and the student, may here enjoy their favourite pursuits, whilst the victims of ennui may pass their hours with pleasure and advantage. The terms of subscription are per day, 10 sons ; a fortnight, 4 francs ; a month, 6 francs. The Circulating Library of Messrs. Galignani is conspicuous among several in Paris for the best selection and greatest number of volumes. The sub- scription is by the fortnight or month. Servants. — In almost every furnished hotel there are ser- vants who may be hired for a month, fortnight, week, or day. The charge is generally 4 or 5 francs a-day, as they find themselves with every thing. They are called laquais de place, and we strongly advise travellers to take one, as they will be found to save a great deal of time and trouble. Commissionnaires.— Porters, under this name, are found at the corners of all the principal streets. Letters or parcels may be entrusted to them, and their charges are moderate, va- rying according to the weight or the distance, from 10 to 30 sous. Interpreters. — There are in Paris interpreters of every language in Europe and the East, and offices kept by sworn translators. Monetary System. — Accounts are kept in France in francs, of 10 decimes or 100 centimes. Before 1795, they were kept in livres, of 20 sous or 240 deniers. The livre and franc were formerly of the same value, but the franc is nowl l-4th per cent, better; thus 80 francs equal 81 livres; and, by this proportion, the ancient moneys have been generally converted into modern. But by a decree of 1810, the following pro- portion was established : — pieces of 48 livres, at 47 fr. 20 c. ; of 24, at 23 fr. 55 c. ; of 6, at 5 fr. 80 c. ; of 3, at 2 fr. 75 c. Pieces of 30 and 15 s. pass for 1 fr. 50 c. and 75 c. ; but they are not considered a legal tender for more than 5 fr. The coins may be considered under two heads; namely, an- cient and modern; the ancient gold coins are louis, of 24 livres, and double louis, of the value of 48 livres ; the silver coins called ecus of 6 livres, with halves, quarters, etc. ; butt 10 INTRODUCTION. they have ceased to be a legal tender, and have entirely dis- appeared from circulation. The modern gold coins are pieces of 40 fr. and 20 fr. The silver coins are pieces of 5 fr., 2, 1> K> a °d M fr* The coins of billon (a mixed metal) and copper are pieces of 1 decime or 2 sous, pieces of 6 liards or 1J£ sous, of 5 centimes or 1 sous, and of 1 centime. There are also liards and double liards, which are J£ and % of a sou. In the monetary system of France, the coins, if accurately minted, may serve also as weights. Thus 5 francs in copper, 50 in billon, 200 in standard silver, or 3,100 in standard gold, should weigh 1 kilogramme. Hence the piece of 1 fr. weighs 5 grammes, and any other piece in the above proportion. The gold coins of 20 fr. and 40 fr., struck under the go- vernment of Bonaparte, were called napoleons and double- napoleons; and such is the force of habit that these, as well as pieces of the same value struck since 1814, continue to be so called. They are also designated pieces de vingt francs and pieces de 40 francs. The silver coins of 5 francs each are fre- quently called pieces de cent sous ; a piece of 2 francs is called piece de quarante sous, and so on. The only notes issued by the Bank of France are of 500 fr. and 1,000 fr. These are changeable into silver at the Bank, during the hours of business, without discount, except the charge of 3 sous for the bag which contains the change ; or, at a premium, into silver or gold, at the different money-changers. The French money, being divided into decimal parts, in reckoning, instead of 25 sous, it is said 1 fr. 25 centimes; in- stead of 30 sous, 1 fr. 50 centimes; and so on. When the course of exchange is at par between France and England, 25 francs are considered equal to the pound sterling. The gold as well as silver coins of France contain l-10th alloy to 9-10ths of pure metal. Since the English sovereign contains of pure gold 7.318444035 grammes, and the gold coin of 20 francs con- tains of pure gold 5.806449 grammes, therefore the intrinsic value of the sovereign, in French money, is 25.2079 francs, or 25 fr. 20 centimes. Hence the intrinsic value of the fol- lowing English coins in French money will be : — Guinea . . 36 fr. 47 cent. Crown . 5 80 Shilling • • 1 iG and the intrinsic value of French coins in English money will be MONETARY SYSTEM. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 17 Napoleon . . i5s. Jo^cL.g Franc ... o 9^ ,o5 The rale of exchange, at Paris and the principal towns of France, is commonly 25 fr. 50 c. for £1 sterling : but it varies, and especially in the smaller towns, from 25 fr. to 25 fr. 75 c. If we assume it to be 25 fr. to £1, we have an easy proportion, by which we may find the value of the money of either country in the money of the other. Thus, since 25 fr. are equal to 20 shillings, 5 francs are equal to 4 shillings; and, therefore, any number of francs are equal to 4-5ths of the same number of shillings ; and any number of shillings are equal to 5-4ths of the same number of francs. Thus 100 francs will equal 80 shillings, or £4 ; and £5, or 100 shillings, will equal 125 francs. Hence Sovereign . • s5 fr. Napoleon . . i6s. od. Crown . . 6 25c. Franc . . . (^nearly. Shilling . . i 2D Son . . . ^nearly. Penny . . io nearly. ovj^.g This rule will be found very useful for all small sums and the common purposes of life; it may also be applied when the rate of exchange is above 25 fr. , by multiplying the addi- tional centimes by the number of pounds sterling, and then subtracting their value from the result, when French money is turned into English, or adding it when English is turned into French. Thus, when the exchange is at 25 fr. 50 c, 100 francs are equal to £3 18s. 5d. very nearly ; and £5, or 100 shillings, are equal to 127 fr. 50 c. exactly. Weights and Measures. — We have here three systems of weights and measures to explain ; namely, the ancient sys- tem, used before the French Revolution ; the metrical or deci- mal system, established in 1795 ; and the systeme usuel, made legal for retail business in 1812. The system of 1795 is the metrical system, with decimal divisions, and a new vocabu- lary ; and that of 1812 is also the metrical system, but with binary divisions, and the ancient vocabulary. The decimal system is used in all wholesale and government concerns, and is well calculated to facilitate the operations of commerce ; but the binary system (that is, dividing standards into halves, quarters, eighths, etc.) is found more convenient in the in- ferior departments of trade, and particularly in retail busi- ness. The former system is, both by its divisions and voca- bulary, admirably adapted for universal communication among the learned ; but it is perhaps too scientific for the 2. 18 INTRODUCTION. common people, to whom the business of Weighing and mea- suring the necessaries of life is chiefly committed in every country. Ancient System.{±) — The ancient weight of France, called the poids de marc, was the same for the precious metals as for all merchandize. The livre or pound was divided into 2 marcs, 16 ounces, 128 gros, or 9,216 grains. Diamonds were weigh- ed by the ounce of 144 carats, each carat being 4 grains. Apothecaries' weight was the poids de marc of 16 ounces, 256 drachms, 768 scruples, or 9,216 grains. The pound, poids de marc, answers to 0.4895 kilogramme of the new weight, or 7.555 English grains. The corn measure of Paris was the muid > which was divided into 12 setiers, or 144 bois- seaux, and the boisseau into 16 litrons. The setier equals 1 .56 hectolitre, or 4.427 English bushels. The principal measure for wine was also the muid, which was divided into 36 setiers, 144 quarts, or 288 pintes. The muid answered to 2.68 hec- tolitres, or 70.80 English gallons. The pinte answered to to 0.931 litre, or 0.2459 English gallon, being very nearly an English quart. The old French foot (pied de roi) was divided into twelve inches, 144 lines, or 1828 points ; and equalled 0.32484 metre, or 12.7893 English inches. The aune of Paris was 1.1888 metre, or 46.85 English inches. The toise or fathom, also called the toise d'ordonnance, was 6 feet, pied do roi=1.949 metre, or 6.395 English feet. The mile was 1,000 toises=zl949.036 metres, or 1 English mile, 1 furlong, 28 poles. The lieue or league, legal road measure, is 2,000 toises. The arpent, or acre, was mostly 100 square perches, but the perch varied in different provinces. The following were the principal land measures, computed from the length of the perch : — Arpent d'ordonnance, 22 feet to the perchzz: 51.07 ares—l acre, 1 rod, 2 perches, English. Arpent com- mun, 20 feet to the perch=42.21 aresz=l acre, 7 perches, English. Arpent de Paris, 18 feet to the perch=34.19 ares z=z3 rods, 15 perches, English. Metrical and Decimal System. — The fundamental standard adopted in France for the metrical system of weights and measures is called the metre, and is the ten-millionth part of the distance from the pole to the equator. This is adopted as the unit of length, and from which, by decimal multipli- (i) A knowledge of the old system as well as the new is indis* pensable, as the ancient system is still partially retained, particu- larly in road measures, and in valuing the work of labourers and mechanics. In land-surveying, too, it is constantly referred to. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 19 Cation and division, all other measures are derived. The length of the quadrant of the terrestrial meridian was ascer- tained by Messrs. Delambre and Mechain, by measuring an arc of the meridian between the parallels of Dunkirk and Barcelona. The metre is equal to 39.371 English inches. The following tables, from the Annuaire du Bureau dcs Longitudes for 1836, give the comparative values of the French and English weights and measures, in the decimal system: — Systematic Names. French Value. Measures of Length. Myriametre Kilometre . Decametre Metre . . Decimetre. . Centimetre . Millimetre. . Superficial Measures. Hectare. . , Are . . . , Centiare . , Measures of Capacity. Kilolitre . Hectolitre . Decalitre . Litre . . Decilitre . Measures of Solidity. Stere . . Decistere . Weights. Millier . . Quintal. . Kilogramme Hectogramme Decagramme Gramme . . Decigramme 10,000 metres ..... 1,000 metres . 10 metres ..... Fundamental unit of weights and measures. It is the M0,000,000th part of the arc of the meridian from the pole to the equator. l-10ch of a metre . 1 -100th of a metre . l-1000th of a metre . 10,000 square metres 100 square metres . 1 square metre 1 cubic metre, or 1000 cubic deci- metres. 100 cubic decimetres 10 cubic decimetres . 1.2138 miles. 1093.633 yards. 10.93633 yards. 3.2808992 feet, or 1.093633 yard. 1 cubic decimetre . l-10th cubic decimetre 1 cubic metre. l-10th cubic metre. 1000 kilogrammes or 1 French ton 100 kilogrammes .... Weight of 1 cubic decimetre of water at the temperature of 4° (Centigrade), or 39° 12' (Faht.) l-10th of kilogramme . * l-100th of kilogramme , i-lOOOth of kilogramme . 1-lO.OOOth of kilogramme English Value. 3.937079 inches, .393708 inch. .03937 inch. 2.471143 acres» .093845 rood. 1.196033 square yard. 220.09668 gallon?. 22.00967 gallons. 2.20097 gallons. i .22009 gallon, or ( 1.760773 pint. 17608 pint. 35.31658 cubic feet. 3.53166 cubic feet. 19.7 cwts. 1.97 cwts. 2.6803 lbs. troy, or 2.2055 lbs. avoirdupoi*. i3.2 ounces troy. * 3.52 ounces avoirdup. 6.43 penny weight troy. ( 15.433 grains troy. < 0.643 pennyweight. ( .032 ounce troy . 1.5438 grain troy. It may assist the memory to observe that the terms for mul- tiplying are Greek, and those for dividing, Latin. 2 20 INTRODUCTION. English Measures and Weights compared with French. Inch ( i -36th of yard) . Foot (i-3d of yard) Imperial yard Fathom (2 yards) Pole or perch (5^[ yards') Furlong (220 yards) Mile (1760 yards) Long Measure* 2.53g954 centimetres 3. 04 79449 decimetres o. 01438348 1.82876696 6.0291 1 201 .16437 1609.3149 metre metre metres metres metres Square yard . Rod (square perch) Hood (1210 square yards) Acre (4840 square yards) Square Measure. 0.836097 25.291939 10. 1 16775 0.404671 Pint (i-8th of gallon) Quart (i-4th of gallon) Imperial gallon . Peck (2 gallons) Bushel (8 gallons Sack (3 bushels) . Quarter (8 bushels) Chaldron (12 sacks) Measures of Capacity. 0.567932 1. 1 35864 4.54345:97 9.086Q159 36.347664 1 . 09043 2.907813 i3.o85i6 sq. metre sq. metres ares hectare litre litre litres litres litres hectolitres hectolitres hectolitres Troy Weight^) o.o65 gramme 1.555 gramme 31.091 grammes 0.373096 kilogramme Grain (1-2/jth of pennyweight) Pennyweight (i-2oth of ounce) Ounce (1- 2th of pound troy) Imperial pound troy Avoirdupois Weight Dram (i-i6th of ounce) Ounce (i-]6th of pound) Imperial pound avoirdupois Quintal or hundred-weight (i?2 lbs.) Ton (20 quintals or hundred-weights) Systeme usuel. — The systeme usuel has the metrical stan- dards for its basis, but their divisions are binary ; and instead of the new nomenclature, the names of the ancient weights and measures are used, annexing the term usuel to each. Thus (1) The weights, though not perfectly exact, are sufficiently so for all but mathematical purposes. T.771 28.338 0.4534 00.78 ioi5.65 gramme grammes kilogramme kilogrammes kilogrammes WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 21 the half kilogramme is called the livre usuelle, and the douhle metre the toise usuelle, etc. This system was legalised by an imperial decree in 1812, for the use of retail traders, and the decimal system was continued for all other kinds of business and measurement; but as the law was left optional, it led to many difficulties, insomuch that, in 1816, the systeme usuel was enforced by a royal decree, in which the use of weights or measures decimally divided is absolutely prohibited in shops, or any departments of trade connected with retail busi- ness, while the decimal system is confirmed for all other pur- poses. As the systeme usuel has the metre and gramme for its basis, any of its divisions may be easily computed. The following, however, are the contents of its principal units in English measure : — The toise usuelle of 2 metres equals 6 feet 6 3-4ths inches English. The pied usuel equals l-6th of the toise, and the inch l-12th of the foot. The aune usuelle equals 3 feet 11 3-4ths inches English, with all its divisions in pro- portion. The long measures are also divided into l-5th, l-6th, and l-12th ; which are easily computed from the foregoing dimension of the toise and aune. The boisseau usuel is l-8th of the hectolitre, and equals 0.35474 English bushel, with halves, quarters, etc., in proportion. The litron usuel equals 1.074 Paris pints, or 2 l-9th English pints, with halves, quar- ters, etc., in proportion. Apothecaries have adopted the sys- teme usuel in compounding medicines, which weight, in small quantities, scarcely differs from the poids de marc. Diamonds are still weighed by carats of 4 grains each, but these grains differ from the foregoing. Thus, 1 carat equals 3.876 grains, poids de marc, or 3.798 grains usuel; and also answers to 2.01 decigrammes, or 3 l-10th English grains. The livre usuelle = 500 grammes = 9413.575 grains, poids de marc, or 7717 English grains, and all its divisions, and multiples in proportion. Hence the common pound of France = 1 lb. 1 oz. 10 l-6th drams avoirdupois; and therefore' the quintal metrique of 100 kilogrammes answers to 220.486 lbs. avoirdu- pois, or 1 cwt. 3 qrs. 24 J£ lbs. To the above tables it may be useful to add that, in the comparison of the French and English barometrical scales, 26 French inches equal 27.7 English nearly 28 „ 39.8 „ 2 9 if 00.7 „ !u the thermometrical scales? 22 ' INTRODUCTION. Freezing point is marked o in the Centigrade, or French scale „ o in Reaumur's 3i Q in Fahrenheit's or the English scale Boiling heat is marked ioo° in the Centigrade 8o° in Reaumur's 212° in Fahrenheit's Hence 4° Reaumur = 9 0 Fahrenheit = 5° Centigrade. From these two equations all the other corresponding yalues of the scales may be deduced. The circle is divided by the French into 400 degrees ; by the English into 360. Hence 10 French circular degrees equal 9 English. Duties on Articles imported from the Continent into England. — The following is extracted from an excellent and most useful little work, published by Mr. R. Cox, of the London Custom-house : — [Persons arriving in England, with goods in their baggage for private use, Kable to the payment of duties, are allowed to leave them at the Custom-house, under the care of the officers, for a period not exceeding six months, in order to give them an oppor- tunity of taking them hack to the Continent, without payment of duty ; hut on taking them out of the warehouse in which they have been deposited, they are charged with a rent of /jd. per week for each parcel or package. If at the end of six months the goods are not taken hack, or the duties paid, they are sold to defray rent, duties, and other charges. Articles found concealed in trunks, boxes, or any package, or in linen cloths, or other articles, or packed in any way so as to deceive the officers, are subject to seizure, together with all the goods (although not concealed) with which they are packed. And persons on board any vessel, on being questioned by an officer of the customs whether they have any foreign goods in their possession, and denying them, on such goods being discovered, are liable to forfeit them and to pay a fine of three times their amount. Goods for sale are not allowed to be brought over in any post-office packet, or other government vessel, under penalty of forfeiture.] £. s. d. Alabaster, the same duty as marble, per cwt. ♦ o 3 o Baskets of all sorts, for every £100 value Beads, viz., amber, the lb. Arango, for every €100 Coral, the lb. Crystal, the £1000 Jet, the lb. . Other beads, for every £100 . The duties are not charged on trifling quantities, effects of passengers. 20 o o 0 12 O . 20 O O * o i5 10 1 8 6 o 3 2 . 3o o o and actually personal I JO o 16 o I 6 0 a 18 o o o 20 o o I o o CUSTOMS, DUTIES. 23 Books printed prior to 1801, whether bound ov un- bound, the cwt. . . . .loo or about 2d. per lb. — -—printed in or since i8oj, if in a foreign living language, bound or unbound, the cwt. . 2 io o in the English or dead languages, printed abroad, the cwt. . . . . 5 o o or about j id. per lb. Strictly speaking, pirated works are altogether prohibited to be im- ported, but a single copy of each work is passed by the officers on pay- ment of the high duty.— Foreign books and maps having once paid duty or purchased in England, are delivered free, on a declaration to that effect bsing made. Boots, Shoes, and Calashes, viz , women's boots, shoes, and calashes, the dozen pairs Boots, the dozen pairs Shoes, with cork or double soles, quilted shoes and clogs, the dozen pairs _ of silk, satin, jean, or other stuff, kid or other leather, the dozen pairs Bottles of cut glass, for every £ioo value This duty includes decanters, scent-bottles, etc. Boxes of all sorts, including ladies' work-boxes, mu- sical boxes, etc., for every £ioo value Bronze — All works of art made of bronze, the cwt. This duty relates to all bronze strictly coming under the description of, and belonging to, the Fine Arts; but all modern works of bronze, which may be applied to domestic purposes, are charged for every £100 value, £30. Brass manufactures, per cwt. . . a • 3o o o Cambrics and lawns, not exceeding 8 yds. in length and 7/8 of a yard in breadth, the piece, and so on in proportion . . . . .060 Cambric bordered handkerchiefs, the piece . o 5 o Cambric or lawns converted into handkerchiefs are liable to the pay- ment of duty, even though they may have been used, unless the quantity is trifling. Cards, playing, per dozen packs . . . 4 0 0 This duty amounts to a prohibition. Carriages, foreign, for every £100 value . 3o o o All foreign carriages are liable to this duty, whether in use or not. British built carriages are duty free, unless purchased abroad. Cameos, for every €100 value . . . 20 o o Casts of busts, statues, or figures, the cwt. . .026 China or porcelain ware, plain, without a gilt rim or other ornament, for every £i 00 value . i5 o o — painted, gilt, or ornamented, for every £100 value 3o o o Cheese, the cwt. . . - • . .0106 Chocolate, the lb. . . . o 4 4 Cigars, per lb. . . . . .090 Duties on cigars are received upon less than 3 lbs., but any greater quantity requires a petition to the Board of Customs to be admitted, and a small fine is exacted in proportion to the quantity brought. 24 INTRODUCTION. Clocks, for every £100 value . . . 25 o o Clocks are prohibited to be imported unless they have the maker's name on the face, and on the frame of the works, and are complete in cases or stands. Cologne-water, each common flask . . .010 Confectionary of sugar, bonbons, etc., for every £100 value . . . . . . ao o o Cotton manufactures, for every £100 value . . 10 o o » — articles of manufactures of cotton, wholly or in part made up, for every £100 value . ♦ 20 o o This duty attaches on all articles of cotton, not being the wearing-ap- parel of passengers in use, and of trifling quantity. Crayons, for every £100 value ♦ < . 4° 0 0 Diamonds, free. Drawings. See Prints. Earthen-ware, for every £100 Value . . • i5 o o Embroidery and needlework, for every £100 value . 3o o o Reasonable quantities of wearing-appaiel of this description are deli- vered duty free ; but any large quantity of needlework, whether worn or not, and all new worked caps, collars, tippets, pelerines, etc., are charged with this duty. Feathers, ostrich, dressed, per lb. . .010 Flower-roots, for every £ioo value . . . 5 o o Flowers, artificial, not silk, for every £100 value . 25 o o Flowers, artificial, silk, for every £100 value • 3o o o Fossils, for every £100 value . . . . 20 o o This does not apply to specimens of fossils: see Specimens. Frames of pictures, drawings, etc., for every £100 value 20 o o Gauze, thread, for every £100 value . » 3o o o Ginger, preserved, per lb. . . . .006 Glass, plate, not more than 9 square feet, per sq. ft. . 060 not more than 1 \ sq. ft., per sq. ft. . .080 not more than 36 sq. ft., per sq. ft. * .096 — -—more than 36 sq. ft., the sq. ft. * .0110 manufactures, for every £100 value % 20 o o and further for every cwt. . , . 4 0 0 This applies to a variety of glass, such as tumblers, wine-glasses, etc. Gloves, habit-gloves, the dozen pairs • . 04° men's ditto, ditto • . • o 5 o women's long ditto, ditto • . .070 Gloves for sale can only be imported in packages of 100 dozen pair; any quantity found in baggage, exceeding 6 dozen, requires a petition to the Board of Customs to be admitted : but quantities under 6 dozen are re* ceived at once, on payment of duty. Hair manufactures, for every £f 00 value , . 3o o o Harp-strings, or lute-strings, silvered, for every £100 value . . . i . • 20 o o Hats, straw, Leghorn, etc., being new ami not exceed- ing 22 inches diameter, each . . . o 5 8 ditto, exceeding 22 inches in diameter, each . o 11 4 Horses, mares, or geldings, each . f . 1 0 q British horses purchased abroad are liable to this duty. CUSTOMS, DUTIES. 25 Jewels, not diamonds, set, for every £ i oo value .20*00 — ~— not set, ditto . . . . • i o o o Jewellery, being trifling in quantity, old, and actually in wear, is passed free. Lacquered ware, for every £ i oo value • . 3o o o Lace of thread, for every £ioo value . » . 3o o o Liqueurs are charged with duty as spirits Leather manufactures, for every £ i oo value . . 3o o o Linen — Articles of manufactures of linen, or of linen mixed with cotton, or with wool, wholly or in part made up, for every £ioo value . . , /jo o o This duty applies to damask and other table-cloths, made up; sheets and household linen of every sort, made up, whether ivom or not, if of fo- reign manufacture. Maps or Charts, or parts thereof, plain . o o i coloured . . . . .002 This duty is entirely independent of the quality of the map. Marble manufactures, per cwt. » • o 3 o Medals of gold or silver, free any other sorts of medals, for every £100 value 5 o o Minerals, for every £100 value . • . 20 o o specimen of minerals. See Specimens, Mosaic work. See Stone. Models of cork or wood, for every £100 value . 5 o o Mules, each . . . • . o 10 o Musical Instruments, whether old or new, for every £roo value . . . . . 20 o o Needlework. See Embroidery. Paper-hangings, painted or stained paper, or flock- paper, per square yard . . . o 1 o Other Paper, per lb. . ♦ • .009 Pearls, for every £100 value . • • • 5 o o Pictures, each . . . • .010 and farther, the square foot . .010 Plate of gold, the ounce troy . . .3169 — — of silver gilt, ditto . » . .064 part gilt, ditto . . • o 6 o — — of silver ungilt, ditto . . . o 4 6 old, having been in private use of importer, and intended for service, silver, ditto . .026 - , gold, ditto . . . . .100 Pies, Perigord, game, and all sorts of French pies, for every £100 value , . . . 20 o o Plums, dried, per cwt. . • « .110 Prints and Drawings, plain, each . . .001 coloured, each . . . .002 Drawings executed by travellers, for private use, are delivered duty free, upon satisfactory proof. The above duties are independent of the quality of the print or drawing. Seed, viz., garden, seed, the lb. v v i o o 3 26 INTRODUCTION. Silk, viz., articles of manufactures of silk, wholly or in part made up, for every £ ioo value . ' . 3o o o The above duty applies only to all foreign silk articles brought by pas- sengers for their private use. Any article of dress, etc. of silk, although for private use, not accompanying the parties to whom they belong, are liable to the following duties ; — Silk turbans, or caps, each .... — * — hats, or bonnets, each .... dresses, each . . ... or at the option of the officers of the customs, for every £ ioo value .... Silk Crape, plain, the lb. figured, the lb. Silk Velvet, plain, the lb. figured ; . . . Skins and Furs, viz., any article manufactured of Skins or Furs, for every £ioo. Snuff, per lb. With same restriction as for cigars. Spa Ware, for every £ i oo value This ware is the same as English Tunbridge ware. Specimens of Minerals, Fossils or Ores, each specimen not exceeding i4 lbs. exceeding such weight, for every £ioo value of Natural History, stuffed birds and animals ; shells ; and live animals Spirits, not sweetened, the gallon , sweetened, cordials or strong waters, and liqueurs, the gallon and is. /jd. per gallon, in addition for glass bottles. Spirits, remains of passengers' stores unexpended on the voyage, may be admitted ; but the duties are not to be charged on any quantity less than a pint of ordinary drinkable spirits; or half a pint of eau de Cologne, or other cordial water ; or any medicated or perfumed spirits or liqueurs, when imported in the baggage of passengers for private use. Steel manufactures, for every £ioo value Stone sculptured, or Mosaic work, per cwt. Small mosaics are liable to a duty of L20 per cent. Succades, and all preserved sweetmeats, per lb. Sugar, refined, per cwt. .... or is. 6d. per lb. Sulphur impressions, for every £ ioo value Telescopes, do. ..... Tobacco, per lb. ..... With same restrictions as cigars. Tobacco pipes, clay or porcelaine, for every £ioo value , wood, meerchaum, etc. do. . Toys, for every £foo value .... This includes, besides childrens' toys, a variety of trifling ornaments. Truffles, the lb. . . . . o i o But preserved truffles, imported in bottles, pay 20 per cent, in addition to the duties on the bottles, as common green glass. o i5 0 i 5 o 2 10 o 4o 0 o o 16 o o 18 0 I 'A 1 7 6 o 6 o 3o o o free 5 o o free I 2 6 I 10 o 20 O o O 2 % O O 6 8 8 o 5 o 0 3o o o o 9 o 3o o o 20 o o 20 0 0 CUSTOMS, DUTIES. ±1 Turnery, for every £100 value . . . 3o o o Vases, ancient, not being stone or marble, tor every £100 value . . . . . 5 o o Wares, Goods, and Merchandise, wholly or in part manufactured, such as are usually imported by pas- sengers, and are not particularly mentioned in this table for every £ i oo value . . . . 20 o o This includes a great variety of articles; among others, bracelets, buckles, combs, chains for the neck, ear-rings, brooches, and other articles of jewellery, being new ; articles of or-molu, household furniture, and other goods (not being wearing-apparel) whether old or new. Wares, Goods, and Merchandise, not being wholly or in part manufactured, usually imported by travellers, and not particularly mentioned in this table, for every £100 value. . . . . 5 o o This applies to articles in the raw state, which have not undergone any process of manufacture. Under this head of duty, game, poultry, wild fowl, etc., are also charged. Watches of all sorts, for every €100 value • . 25 o o Watches and fowling-pieces, whether new or old, and although form- ing part of passengers' baggage, must be regularly entered, and charged with duty. But onb pair of pistols, if old and used, brought by passen- gers in their baggage, will be delivered duty free. Water, mineral, the gallon . . , .001 Wine of all sorts, the gallon, . . . o 5 6 and is. 4d. per gallon in addition for glass bottles. Woollens, viz. manufactures of wool, not being goat's wool, or of wool mixed with cotton, for every £100 value . . . . . . i5 o o This includes ladies' merino and other sorts of cloth. Woollen articles of manufacture, not being goat's wool, or of wool mixed with cotton, wholly or in part made up, for every £100 . . . 20 o o New merino dresses, and new cloth coats, etc., are charged with this duty ; but such articles as are bona fide wearing-apparel, old and worn, are delivered duty free. Worsted yarn of all sorts, the lb. • . . 006 Duties on Articles Imported from England into France. [Ten per cent is to be added, and is claimed, in addition to the duties specified. Plate and jewellery for the use of travellers, free, if not exceeding the weight of 5 hectogrammes. Clothes and linen having been worn, free, if not considered more than needful for the passengers. Parties going to reside in France, and wish- ing to take their furniture, linen, plate, etc. must apply to the Director General, at Paris, sending a statement of the articles, and, if they can be admitted, generally pay i5 per cent, on the value ; if a piano forms part, the duty on it is considerably reduced. Various articles which were lately absolutely prohibited, even when they made a part of passengers' baggage, are now admitted, not in an obligatory but discretionary way, and are charged with 28 INTRODUCTION. a duty of 3o or rather 33 per cent, the decime (the tenth) included. Those articles consist of all sorts of wearing-apparel. The same favour is extended to portions, and sometimes to whole pieces, which have not or have scarcely been made up. In those cases, the condition and the supposed intentions of such passengers as may happen to have brought with them great or small supplies of the same, are taken into consideration. According to the Customs regulations, every thing that is new, or has not been used, either made or not made up, must be declared before the examination of the baggage takes place, under penalties of seizure and fine. But the Custom House officers generally tax those things not duly de- clared, or give them back to the owners for re-exportation.] Boots and shoes, prohibited. Boxes, Spa work, 200 fr. (£8) per 100 kils. (200 lbs.) white wood, i5 per cent, on value. Bronze, manufactured, prohibited. Calicoes, prohibited. Cards, prohibited. Carpets, of woollen and linen thread, the chain of thread, 3oo fr. (£12.) per 100 kils. (200 lb.) silk, and mixed with thread, 3o6 frs. (€12 4 s - 5d.) per ditto. other sorts prohibited. Carriages. One-third of the value of the carriage to be deposited on importation, and three-fourths of this sum returned if ex- ported within three years. Cheese, i5 fr. (12s.) per 100 kils. Clocks, prohibited. Comfits, ditto. Cotton manufactures, ditto. Diamonds, rough, 5o c per hectogramme, (3J^ oz.) , cut, 1 fr. (g%d.) per ditto. Earthen-ware, common, 4q *r. per too kils. , finer sort, as cups, dishes, etc. prohibited. Embroidery and needlework, as modes, — on exportation, 12 per cent. « , on importation , prohibited. Frames (picture, etc.) and furniture of all sorts, i5 per cent. Gloves, prohibited. Horses, 5o fr. (£2) ditto Colts, i5 fr. (12s ) ditto. Hardware, generally prohibited. Jewels, set in gold, 20 fr. (16s ) per hectogramme. — ditto silver, 10 fr. (8s.) ditto. Lace, cotton or linen, worked with the hand, 5 per cent . Lace, silk, i5 per cent. Lacquered ware, generally prohibited. Leather manufactures, prohibited. CUSTOMS, DUTIES. 29 Linen, less than 8 threads, per Unbleached. Coloured, ioo kils. (200 lb.) 3o fr. (£ 1 4 S \) 60 fr. (£2 8s.) 8 and under 12 65 fr. (£2 12s.) 85 fr. (£3 8s.) 12 and under 16 io5 fr. (£4 4 s ) 120 fr. £4 16s. ,6 and under 18 170 fr. (£6 16s.) 200 fr. (£8) 18 and under 20 240 fr. (£9 12s.) 280 fr. (£u 4s.) 20 and upwards 35o fr. (£i4) 4 20 16s.) — ■ bleached, half-bleached, or printed, double the duty of unbleached. Maps, 3oo fr. (£12) per 100 kils. (200 lb.) Musical instruments, viz : — Flutes, 75 c. (6d.)each. Violins, guitars, etc., 3 fr. (2s. 4d.) ditto. Harps, 36 fr. (£1 8s. lod.) ditto. Piano-fortes, square, 3oo fr. (£12) ditto. 9 grand, 400 fr. (£16) ditto. Paper, white or ruled for music, i5o fr. (£6) per 100 kils. Pictures, 1 per cent, on value. Plants, 5o c. (424d.) per 100 kils. (200 lbs.) Porcelaine, common, of one colour and without gold or ornaments, 164 fr. (£6 1 is.) per ditto. , fine, .827 fr. (£i3 is.) per ditto. Prints, 3oo fr. (£12) per ditto. Drawings, 1 per cent, on value. Silk goods, all silk-, plain, 16 fr. (12s. lod.) per kil. (about 2 lb.) figured, 19 tr. (i5s. 2d.) per ditto. brocaded, 19 fr. (10s. 2d ) per ditto. with gold and silver" 3i fr. (£i 4 s * iod.) per do. false, prohibited. mixed with thread, i3 fr. (10s. 5d.) per ditto. mixed with gold and silver, 17 fr. (i3s. 7d.) per kil. (about 2 lb.) Skins, prepared, generally prohibited. Sticks and canes from India, 80 fr (£3 4s.) per 100 kils. (200 lb.) from other places, 160 fr. (£6* 8s.) per ditto. Tea, from India, 1 fr. 5<> c. (is. 3d.) per kil. (2 lb.) from other places, 5 fr. (4s.) per ditto. Telescopes, 3o per cent. Toys, 80 fr. (£3 4s.) per 100 kils. (200 lb.) Wine, ordinary, by sea ; including port, 35 fr. (£1 Ss.) per hecto- litre, (about 100 bottles.) Sherry, xMalaga, etc., 100 fr, per ditto. Woollens, prohibited. S 3. 30 INTRODUCTION. Chapter 1. GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION AND CLIMATE OF PARIS. POPULATION. Paris is situated in 48° 50' 14" north latitude, and 2° 2 Qf 15 w east longitude from Greenwich, or 20o 11' from the me- ridian of Ferro. The longest day in this capital is therefore 16 hours 6 minutes, and the shortest 8 hours 10 minutes. The distance of Paris from the principal towns of Europe and France is as follows :— FROM Amsterdam ► , Berlin . . Bordeaux . , Brussels . . , Calais Constantinople Copenhagen Dresden . . , Dunkirk . , Hamburgh . Lisbon . . leagues. i5o 247 i47 V 67 600 282 24° bS 166 43o FROM London . fc Lyons . . . Madrid . , Marseilles Milan . , . Naples . i Rome . . • Stockholm . St. Petersburg Strasburg Vienna . . leagues. io5 "9 020 2©S 214 382 45o 58o 121 290 Its circumference is about 13,900 toises, or 6 1-10 leagues, of 25 to the degree ; and its surface is about 8,525 acres. Its longer diameter is about 2 leagues. The greatest mean heat is 27o Reaumur, though in 1802 it rose to 29J^«. The mean degree of cold is 7° below zero ; but in 1788 the thermometer fell to below freezing point or zero. The mean tempe- rature is 10° above zero. The greatest height of the barometer is 28^ inches, the least 27 J| inches ; and the mean 28 inches. The average quantity of rain per annum is 20 cubic inches per square inch. The prevailing winds are S.W. and N.E. The climate is, however, variable, and the winters are gene- rally severe. Snow lies here a long time, and fogs are common ; hut the general tendency of the climate is not unfavourable to health. The city lies in the midst of a vast plain, through which the Seine winds, and which comprises that series of geolo- gical formations to which the capital has given its name. The Paris basin consists of coarse limestone beds lying on the or- dinary white chalk formations, and of alternating strala of GEOGRAPHICAL STATISTICS. 31 sandy, compact limestone, marly, and diluvial beds. The marine and fresh water formations alternate with each other, and two of the strata of the general series are famous in com- merce — one for furnishing the limestone of which Paris is built, the other for the fine gypsum, from which the Plaister of Paris is made. (1) The surface of this plain is any thing but barren, though not remarkable for an exuberant fertility; the manure, however, furnished by the capital supplies any natural deficiency of the soil, and the lighter species of grain, vegetables, fruit trees, and vines, flourish here in great per- fection. (2) Rivers. — The Seine, which traverses the capital from south-east to north-west, rises in the forest of Ghanceaux, two leagues from St. Seine, in the department of the Cote-d'Or. It receives the Yonne, the Aube, and the Marne, before it enters Paris; and beyond it, after collecting the tributary streams of the Oise, the Eure, and other smaller rivers, falls into the ocean between Havre and Honfleur. The shortest distance from its source to its mouth is 70 leagues ; and the length of its course, in the interior of Paris, is about 2 leagues. Its breadth at the Pont d' Austerlitz is about 166 metres ; at the Pont Neuf 233 metres, and at the Pont d'lena 136 metres. The mean velocity of the water is 20 inches in a second. There is a great difference in the level of the water in summer and winter: in the former season it is very low, the bottom appears in many places, and in some it is often fordable; during the latter it rises high, and flows with much impe- tuosity. When the river rises more than 6 metres, about 18 feet, above its bed, the lower parts of the town and of the ad- jacent country are liable to be inundated. The following table of the greatest heights attained by the (1) It is unnecessary to go into any details of the geological structure of that part of France in which Paris is situated. It has been fully described, first by the late illustrious Professor Cuvier, and next by Messrs G. Cuvier and Brongniart, in an elaborate work lately published. (2) The last official returns of the area, cultivation, population, etc., of the department of the Seine are as follows: — Area, 24 square leagues. Inhabitants, g35,io8. Arable land, 29,295 hec- tares, or 72,558 acres ; meadow land, i543 hect., or 38n*acres ; vineyards, 2784 beet., or 4876 acres ; woods, i354 hect., or 3344 acres; waste lands, 249 hect., or 6i5 acres 5 roads and public ways, 264ghect., or 6543 acres ; forest land, 2293 hect , or 5663 acres; houses, 47>8°4 ; mills : 77} manufactories, 45o 5 proprietors 67,913.- Cadastre de la France, par M* DucMteU 32 INTRODUCTION, waters of the Seine is extracted from a memoir by M. Dausse on the variations of the level of the river : — Height of water above Dates zero on the scale at the, Pont de laTournelle July it, 1645 . . 9.04 Metres Mar. 1, i658 . . 8.80 Dec, 25, 1 740 , . 7.90 Jan. i65i . . 7.80 Jan. 1649 . . 7.6|> Mar. T711 . . 7.55 Mar. i6go » . 7.50 Jan. 3, 1802 . . 7.32 Height of water above Dates zero on the scale at the Pont de laTournellc Nov. 14, 1764 . . 7 Metres Feb. 4, 1799 . . 6.97 Jan. 1751 . . 6.70 Mar. 3, 1807 . . 6.70 Mar. 4, 1784 . . 6.66 May 8, 1 836 . . 6.4 Mar. 1817 . . 6.3o It is remarkable that the greatest inundation, which rose more than 9 metres, took place in summer. The Seine communicates with the Loire by the canals of Briare and Orleans; with the Saone by the canal de Bour- gogne, and with the Somme and the Scheldt by the canal of St. Quentin. The Seine, which receives a considerable acces- sion to its waters by the junction of the Marne at Charenton, is navigable for barges of large burthen as far as Paris, and even above ; but they are obliged to be built with flat bottoms, and of a peculiar form, to suit the nature of the stream. The navigation is open at all times except when the waters are unusually low, or when the thermometer falls to 10° below zero, at which temperature the river is frozen. In its course through Paris the Seine forms 3 islands : the most eastern, called the lie Louviers, about 1,200 feet in length, is uninhabited, and serves as a depot for fire-wood. The next is the lie St. Louis, about 1,800 feet long, and which has been built on since the time of Louis XIII. The most western of the three islands was the ancient scat of Paris, and is still called the lie de la Cite ; it formerly terminated at the rue de Harlay, but its prolongation was effected in the reign of Henry IV. by annexing to it two small islands. The little stream of the Bievre, or the Gobelins, as it is some- times called, rises between Bouriers and Guyencourt, near Versailles, and after a course of about 8 leagues falls into the Seine, above the Jardin des Plantes : it is not navigable, nor is its water potable; but it is useful by setting in motion se- veral mills, and is excellent for dyeing and tanning. (1) (1) A project has been submitted to government for lining the bed of this river, within the town, with masonry, and for regu- lating the quantity of water. POPULATION RETtRNS. 33 POPULATION OF PARIS. In 1788, according to the official returns, the population amounted to 599,569 individuals; in 1816 to 662,000; in 1819 to 715,000; and in 1831, according to the last census, to 774,338, exclusive of strangers and troops, who are never comprised in these returns. According to arrondissements the population is: 1st arr. 67,013; 2d, 74,995; 3d, 50,167; 4th, 45,358; 5th, 67,951 ; 6th, 81,180 ; 7th, 59,608; 8th, 73,493; 9th, 42,718 ; 10th, 83,422; lllh, 50,572; 12th, 77,866. In 1834 the total number of births was 29,104 ; deaths 23,015 ; marriages, 8,091. Of the 29,104 births, 9,985 were illegitimate, and of these 4,523 took place in hos- pitals and public institutions, and 3,649 were recognised by the fathers. The number of still-born children was 1,748. Of the number of deaths, 14,023 persons died at their own homes, 7,759 in civil hospitals, 895 in military hospitals, 50 in prisons, and 288 were deposited at the Morgue. The total number of deaths by the small-pox was 618. The movement of the population of Paris for 1835 is stated to be as follows : Births — legitimate, boys 12,725, girls 12,056; illegitimate recognised by the parents, boys 1,475, girls 1,315 ; illegitimate not recognised by the parents, boys 4,001, girls 3,982 — total 35,554. Marriages, 9,581. Deaths, males 15,519, females 14,587. Deposited at the Morgue, males 226, females 42 — total 30,374. (1) (i) The total population of France in 3820 was 3o, 45 1,1 87 ; in 1 83 1 it was 32,560,93/j. The total number of births in France, during i833 was 969,983 ; deaths 812,548 ; marriages 264, 06 To this we may add, that it appears from the official accounts for the last 17 years, that the proportion of births of boys to those of girls, for the whole country, is as 16 to i5, in the case of legiti- mate children, and as 23 to 22 for illegitimate children. For every natural child born there are i3.i legitimate children. The deaths of males surpass those of females in the proportion of 55 to 54« One marriage is reckoned annually for every iot.i inhabitants, and for every 4 births • 3.76 or nearly 4- legitimate children are born to every marriage. One death takes place for every 3q,5 in- habitants, and every 1 .22 births. One birth occurs for every 32.5 inhabitants and for every 0.82 deaths, giving the proportion of nearly 10 births to 8 deaths. The total increase of the population is by 1-182$ part of the whole annually; hence it increases by i-ioth every 17 years, and in 126 years would become the double of what it is now. If the relations of births and deaths to the whole popu- lation be considered as nearly stationary, then the number 32.5 INTRODUCTION. Of the population of Paris it has been calculated that nearly one-half are working and labouring people, the rest being occupied in some trade or profession, or living upon their income. There are about 80,000 servants, and nearly the same number of paupers. Nearly 15,000 patients are always in the hospitals, and about 4 times that number pass through the hospitals in the course of the year. The num- bers of foundling children supported by the state, and of old and infirm persons incapable of work, are equal, being in each case about 20,000. The population of the prisons is gene- rally nearly 4,000. (1) It has been remarked that families constantly residing in Paris soon become extinct, and that out of the whole popula- tion of the town there are perhaps not more than 1,000 indi- viduals, who can reckon their ancestors, as inhabitants of Paris from father to son, as far back as the reign of Louis XIII. The effects of this mortality are observed to be more active will give the number of years which form the mean duration of life. Before the great Revolution in France, the statistical tables then published assigned only 28.76 years as the average duration of life; and this increase of 3 years is to be attributed to the in- troduction of vaccination, and to greater comforts being dissemi- nated among the lower classes. Much more curious information upon this subject is to be found in the Annuaire du Bureau des Longitudes, from whence the above is extracted. (ij The accurate enumeration and classification of the popu- lation of a large capital is always a work of the greatest difficulty, and perhaps cannot be performed. Still in a city like Paris, sur- rounded by walls, where a strict system of police is maintained, and where the name as well as occupation of any individual citizen can be immediately ascertained, it is certainly a subject of sur- prise that there are no published returns either of the population or of the classification of the inhabitants, which come at all near the truth. The last returns of the population were made in i83i, and a considerable increase must have taken place since then. As to the average numbers of the floating population of foreigners and visitors, they have never been calculated at different seasons of the year. All the published accounts of the classification of inhabitants are grossly incorrect, and have no sufficient data to go upon. It has therefore been judged better, in the absence of all public and authentic information on this subject, to give the reader only approximate results in some of the leading cases, in- stead of attempting to present a table, the authority of which would necessarily be very doubtful. A new census is likely to be made shortly* GOVERNMENT. COUNCIL OF STATE. 35 upon males than females. A Parisian youth of the second or third generation has almost the form and manners of a woman; he has seldom any children that live ; and from hence it may be inferred that all families, which, whether from taste or necessity, pass their lives in a town residence or a shop, are irrevocably doomed to extinction. Those that pass the sum- mer in the country last longer than the others, as may be seen in the case of some ancient noble families that have not been established in the capital more than a century. The class of the nobles has however become much weakened since they have given up inhabiting their castles and manors: and the massive architecture of the hotels of the Faubourg St. Germain no longer corresponds to the diminished stature of their inhabitants. GOVERNMENT. CIVIL, MILITARY, AND JUDICIAL. According to the Charter, as fixed in 1830, the government of France is conducted by three powers : 1. The King, go- verning by his ministers, and in whose name all justice is ad- ministered ; 2. The Chamber of Peers, the number of whom, at present, 270, is unlimited; they are nominated for life by the King, can enter the Chamber at 25, and vote at 30 years of age; 3. The Chamber of Deputies, the number of whom is 459, chosen by the electoral colleges of each department, for 5 years. To be eligible as a deputy a person must be a native of France, 30 years of age, and must pay 500 francs annually in direct taxes. The electors must be 25 years of age, and pay 200 francs in direct taxes. The President is named by the Chamber. The two Chambers must be convoked once a- year at ieast, and at the same time : they can be prorogued, and the Chamber of Deputies dissolved at the pleasure of the King. In case of dissolution, a new Chamber must be el ected and eonvoked within three months. Council of State. — The number of Councillors, Masters of Requests, and Auditors, composing this cauncil, is inde- finite; they are all nominated by the King, and are divided into four committees— of legislative administration ; interior and INTRODUCTION. commerce ; finances ; war, marine, and colonies. The council is presided by the King, or the President of the Coun- cil of Ministers, or the Keeper of the Seals. The Minis- ters and the Directors of Administrations have a deliberative voice in it. All projects of law and ordonnances intended to be submitted by government to the legislation are discussed in this council, and its deliberations are public. The Secretary's office is at No. 58, rue St. Dominique St. Germain. The Com- mittee of Legislative Administration assembles at No. 58, rue St. Dominique St. Germain ; of Interior and Commerce, at No. 103, rue de Grenelle St. Germain ; of War, Marine, and Colonies, at No. 61, rue de l'Universite; and of Finances, at No. 48, rue de Rivoli. Council of Ministers. — This council is composed of the Secretaries of State, who assemble under the presidency of the King, the President of the Council, or one of their own number. They deliberate on administrative legislation, on ail that concerns the general police, the safety of the throne and kingdom, and the maintenance of the royal authority. All royal ordonnances must be countersigned by one or more of the Ministers : they are responsible for all acts of the King, and may be impeached by the Chamber of Deputies, but must be tried by the Chamber of Peers. Minister for Foreign Affairs. — His department em- braces correspondence with foreign powers, all political and commercial treaties, conventions, etc. The office for pass- ports and certificates, 16, rue Neuve des Capucines, is open daily from 11 to 4 o'clock. His residence is on the Boulevard des Capucines. Minister of War. — The duties of this Minister compre- hend the correspondence with the civil and military authori- ties upon all that relates to the movements, discipline, and maintenance of the army, and all military manufactories and establishments. The government of Algiers is also under his jurisdiction. Residence and office, 82, rue St. Domi- nique. Minister of the Marine and the Colonies.— This Mi- nister is charged with the superintendence of the navy, the dock-yards, ports, and generally all that relates to the naval service of the country and its colonial government. Residence and office, 2, rue Royale. Minister of Finance.— Under the direction of this Mi- nister are placed the tos, national debt* the sinking fund, GOVERNMENT— -MINISTRIES. 37 the customs, the post-office, mint, forests, extraordinary do- mains, and all establishments which yield a product to the royal treasury. Offices, 48, rue de Rivoli. Minister of Commerce and Public Works. — This Mi- nister takes cognizance of all laws and regulations affecting the customs and commerce in general; the formation of com- panies, the delivery of patents, weights and measures, agri- culture, fairs, markets, and all public works. Offices, 103 and 122, rue de Grenelle. Minister of the Interior. — The office of this Minister is to correspond with the Prefects, and all officers attached to the internal government of the kingdom; to execute the laws of elections, to superintend the police, to attend to the organization of the national and municipal guards, to watch over the offences of the press, the theatres, etc. He has also the direction of all institutions relating to the fine arts, of all public buildings, monuments, etc. His residence is at 101, rue de Grenelle, St. Germain. The offices are at 101, 103, and 122, in the same street. Minister of Justice and Public Worship. — To this Minister all judges and law officers, crown lawyers, notaries, etc. are subordinate: letters of pardon, of naturalization, etc. are also granted by him. He likewise regulates every thing concerning public worship, the expences of the clergy, the repairs of ecclesiastical edifices, etc. ; the direction of the royal printing-office also falls within his jurisdiction. His residence is at 11, Place Vendome; the offices are at 22, rue Neuve de Luxembourg. Minister of Public Instruction. — This Minister super- intends the University of France, colleges, schools, etc. The Institute, all scientific and literary societies, all public libra- ries and museums, all medical establishments, etc. are also under his administration. His residence is at 116, bis, rue de Grenelle St. Germain. All the ministers have stated hours for public business, official receptions, etc., which may be known at their bureaux. To this account of the f unctions of the different ministers may be added the amount of the budget for 1835. Public debt Pensions FRANCS. 264,889,000 53,847,000 Carryover . . 3 18,736,000 4 3B iHTKODUCIION, Brought forward Dotations .... Department of the minister of justice and public worship — foreign affairs public instruction . — interior — commerce and works — , war . . — marine and colonies i — finance Expenses of collection, etc. Reserve for war . 3i8, 786,000 i6,86r,ooo 18,793,870 7,421,700 1 2,46 ,600 12,009,000 106,000,000 246,863,000 65,5oo,2oo 23,622,700 i6r,23o,ooo io ; 586,g3o Total (1) . . . fr. t, 080,090, 200 Civil List. — Independent of the Ministers, there are the different administrations of the civil list and of the estates of the royal family. — Intendance Generate de la liste civile, 9, Place Vendome. — Administration Generate du domaine prive du Roi 9 21t>, rue St. Honore. — Administration des Biens du Due d'Aumale, Palais Bourbon. Royal Households. — Their disposition is as follows: — The King has 14 aides-de-camp and 2 honorary aides-de- camp, 12 officiers d'ordonnance, 1 secretary, 1 ecuyer com- mandant, and 2 eeuyers. The first aide-de-camp resides at the Tuileries. — The Queen has 1 almoner, 1 lady of honour, 6 ladies, 1 chevalier d'honneur, 1 secretary. — The Princesses have 1 Jady of honour, and 3 ladies. — The Duke of Orleans has 3 aides-de-camp, 4 officiers d'ordonnance, 1 secretary, 1 ecuyer. — The Duke de Nemours has 2 aides-de-camp, and 1 secretary. — The three younger princes have each a tutor. — The Princess Adelaide d' Orleans has 1 lady of honour, 2 ladies, 1 chevalier d'honneur, 1 secretary. — Besides the above functionaries there is a numerous list of medical officers, military com- mandants of palaces, and other personages, attached to the service of the court. Ordre SIoyal de la Legion d'Honnettr. — The Legion of Honour was instituted by a law of 29 Floreal, an 10, 1802, for the recompense of civil and military merit, as well as length of public service. The King is chief and grand master of the order, the administration of which is entrusted to a grand chancellor. The order is composed of chevaliers, officers, commanders, grand officers, and grand crosses. The (1) This sum is equivalent to £4i,2o3 ? 6o8 sterling. LEGION OF HONOUR— DHL WARY GOVERNMENT. 39 members are nominated for life, but lose tbeir privileges by any act that causes the suspension or abolition of their rights a6 French citizens. The number of chevaliers is unlimited, and is about 50,000 at the present time ; that of officers is fixed at 2,000, of commanders at 400, of grand officers at 160, of grand crosses at 80. The princes of the royal family, or ot the blood, and all foreigners upon whom the king bestows the order, are not included in these numbers. Foreigners are only admitted, not received, into the order, and do not take the oaths. The decorations, which are commonly worn at the button-hole of the left breast, vary according to the different ranks. Every member of the Legion of honour created before 1814, or who is a sub-officer or soldier, is en- titled to a pension of 250 francs per ann : but not the others. Among the foreign members of the order are 11 crowned heads and sovereign princes. Attached to the legion of honour are the establishments for the education of the daughters, nieces, and sisters of the members, an account of which will be found under the head of Public Institutions. The Grand Chancellor resides in the hotel of the -order, in the rue de Li lie, where also the offices belonging to his administration are situated. MILITARY GOVERNMENT* The regular army of France is composed as follows General staff „ , , 6g3 Local staff «, Staff of the artillery Staff of the engineers Infantry . Cavalry # Artillery # Engineers Train $ Veterans Gendarmerie 699 960 '9.8 204,291 5o,397 22,768 7,000 3,024 10,000 i4,347 Ditto (Africa) . . « 168 Total + $ 3 1 5,266 The garrison of Paris is generally composed of about 30,000 men, General Staff of the first military division, 1, rue de Lille.— Staff of the Garrison of Paris, 7, Place Yenddme. — Court Martial, 39, rue du Cherche-Midi. National Guard,—T.hv national guard of the department 40 INTRODUCTION. of the Seine consists of 12 legions of infantry for the 12 ar- rondissements of Paris, 4 legions for the hanlieue; 1 legion of cavalry for Paris, and 2 squadrons for the 1st and 2nd legions of the banlieue. The total force, though variable, is about 76,000 men. The corps of artillery, disbanded in 1832, has not since been reorganised. Each legion of infantry of Paris is composed of 4 battalions ; those of the banlieue of 9, 8, 6, and 4 battalions ; the legion of cavalry, called the 13th consists of 6 squadrons. The Etat Major General is on the Place du Carrousel. Municipal Guards. — The municipal guards consist of 2 nattalions of infantry of 4 companies each, the company con- taining 128 men, and 2 squadrons of cavalry each of 98 men, amounting altogether to 1,443 men and officers. Their bar- racks are in the rue Mouffetard, the Place Royale, faubourg St. Martin, and rue de Tournon. This corps is under the orders of the Prefect of police. Sapeurs Pompiers. — The battalion of sapeurs pompiers, or firemen, contains 636 men and officers, and is divided into 4 companies : 134 are on duty every day at the theatres, etc. and 162 are always in the guard-houses of the different arron- dissements. Their barracks are at 20, Quai des Orfevres ; 126, faubourg St. Martin; 4, rue de la Paix ; 9, rue Culture Sle. Catherine, and 15, rue du Vieux Colombier. They are also under the orders of the Prefect of police, and a great number of engines and other means for extinguishing fire are at the disposal of this most efficient corps. COURTS, TRIBUNALS, ETC. The Minister of Justice is the supreme head of all the judi- cial courts in the kingdom, and keeper of the seals. To him belongs the organization and superintendence of the entire judicial system, and of the body of notaries. Court of Cassation, Palais de Justice. — This is the su- preme court of appeal from all the tribunals of France. When presided by the minister of justice, it can censure the Cours Roy ales, or inferior courts of appeal, and can, for grave rea- sons, suspend the judges from their functions, or summon them to render an account *of their* conduct. It does not take cog- nizance of affairs themselves, but only sets aside sentences, in cases of informality, or misapplication of the law; after which it refers the affair itself to a competent tribunal. Generally speaking, there is no appeal to this court from the sentences of justices of the peace, or from those of military and naval courts. The time allowed for making an appeal, in civil COURTS, TRIBUNALS, ETC. H matters, is three months ; in criminal matters, misdemean- ours, and breaches of police regulations, only three days. The court of cassation is composed of a president, 3 vice- presidents, and 45 counsellors, nominated for life by the king'. It is divided into 3 sections, called sections of requests, of civil and of criminal cassation. With the court of cassation is a procureur-general of the king, six avocats-generaux, a chief registrar, and 4 under-registrars. A college of 60 advocates has the exclusive right of pleading in this court, and in the king's councils. The two civil sections have a vacation, but the criminal section always continues sitting. Cour des Comptes, Cour de la Sainte Chapelle. — This court is the next in rank to that of Cassation, and enjoys the same prerogatives. It examines all the principal accounts of the kingdom, and consists of a chief president, 3 presidents, 18 masters of accounts, 80 referendaires, a procureur-general of the king, and a registrar. It is divided into three sect ; cns or chambers. The first decides matters relating to the public receipts ; the second, such as relate to the public expenditure ; and the third, the receipts and expenses of the communes. Vacation from September 1 to November 1. C4OUR Royale, Palais de Justice. — This court is composed of a chief president, 5 presidents, 54 counsellors, 7 auditor- counsellors, a procureur-general of the king, 4 avocats-gene- raux, 11 deputy-advocates, and a registrar. It is divided into 5 chambers; 3 civil, one of appeal from sentences for misde- meanours, and one for indictments, exclusive of the court of Assizes, which holds two sessions monthly, and consists of one section or two, according to the number of prisoners for trial. For the assizes, the keeper of the seals, or the first president* appoints a certain number of counsellors as judges. Audi- ences are given every day, except Sundays and holidays, from nine till twelve. The advocates who attend this court are very numerous. An office for gratuitous counsel to the indigent is open every Tuesday from one to four, in the library of the order of advocates, at the Palais de Justice. The solicitors or attorneys attached to this court, called avoucs, are licentiates in law. They have a chambre for maintaining their own discipline and regulations. Vacation from Septem- ber 1 to November 1. Tribunal de Premiere Instance, Palais de Justice.— This court consists of 1 president, 7 vice-presidents, 34 judges, among whom are 10 judges of instruction, 14 supplementary 42 INTRODUCTION judges, a procuieur-du-roi, 15 deputy procureurs, 1 chief registrar, and 22 sworn registrars. It is divided into 8 cham- bers. The Court sits every day except Sundays and Mondays. Vacation from September 1 to November 1. TxiiBUNAL de Gommerce, at the Exchange. — The judges of this court are respectable merchants, principally heads of ancient houses, who are nominated in a general assembly of merchants, and confirmed by the king. The tribunal is com- posed of a president, 8 judges, 15 deputy -judges, and has a registrar, under-regislrars, and huissiers. Attached to this court are ten officers, called gardes du commerce, who ap- prehend such persons as the tribunal decides shall be arrested. Tribunal of Municipal Police, Palais de Justice. — The justices of the peace sit here alternately, and decide upon the breach of police regulations where the penalty does not exceed Jive days' imprisonment, or a fine of 15 fr. A commissary of police acts as counsel for the prosecution. Tribunaux de Paix. — In each municipal arrondissement ihere is a tribunal de paix, principally for the adjustment of disputes relative to money matters, which holds its sittings as follows: — 1st Arrondissement, 9, rue d'Anjou; 2d, 2, rue Pinon; 3d, 10, rue Hauteville; 4th, 4, Place du Chevalier it any of these establishments, application must be made by letter to M. Le Prefet de police, Quai des Orfeyres. La- Forge, rue du Roi de Sicile. — This prison is composed of buildings, which formerly were the hotel of the Duke de la Force, hut were converted to their present destination in 1780'. A new prison for prostitutes, called La Petite Force, in contradistinction to the other, or La Grande Force, was erect- ed about the same period. Since the beginning of 1830 these two prisons have been united, and the whole appropriated to the confinement of male persons committed for trial. Being- situated in a low and crowded part of the town, and the buildings being both old and inconvenient, it has been de- cided that the whole establishment shall be removed to a new prison to be built near the Jardin des Plantes. The descrip- tion of the buildings of this prison would therefore be super- fluous. The prisoners are divided into separate classes ; the hardened thieves, who are old offenders, form one; men committed for acts of violence, another; old men above 60 years of age are placed by themselves; and so are boys under 18 years of age ; the other prisoners form two classes, those supposed to be the best disposed being kept by themselves. The prisoners sleep in large dormitories, which are compara- tively clean and weli ventilated ; the dormitory of the boys is divided by strong partitions into small chambers, each cou- laining a single bed, and in their ward a workshop is esta- blished. The other prisoners may work if they please; but as they are not condemned, their labour is quite voluntary. An infirmary, bathing-room, parloir, and cantine are attached to the prison, as w ell as an advocate's room, in which prisoners can confer with their legal defenders. Each class has a yard for exercise. The sanitary regulations of this prison are very excellent, and are attended with the best results. The average number of prisoners is from 700 to 800> and the annual move- ment of the population of the prison from 10,000 to 12,000. On account of the increased number of prisoners, the cJnpc-i has been forced to be converted into dormitories. The new PRISONS. 51 prison will be situated on the Boulevard de l'Hopital; and a sum of 2,200,000 fr. has been voted for its erection, which will be finished, it is supposed, in 1838. Prison for Debtors, rue de Clichy.— This is a small prison, of plain construction, airy and well situated ; it holds from 150 to 200 persons, and will, it is expected, receive further augmentations. Ste. Pelagie, rue de la Clef. — This prison was formerly a convent of nuns, which was suppressed at the Revolution. After that period it was converted into a prison for debtors* and became one of the most celebrated in Europe, ii has very lately been appropriated to persons condemned to im- prisonment for not more than a year, audio political offenders, either committed for trial or sentenced to short terras of con- finement. The internal aspect of the prison has therefore be- come entirely changed, and much improved. Political of- fenders are kept apart from the rest, and are at liberty to occupy themselves as they please. The following is an official account of the number of persons confined here in July, 1836 : — Condemnations for 1 year and under, different of- fences, 73; ditto for more than 1 year (wailing for removal to a Maison Cent rale), 9; solitary confinement, 1 ; breach of discipline, 5 ; condemnations for political offences, 18 ; com- mittals for do. 29; committals, various offences, 15; debtors, 5; total 155. The buildings are large and airy; and on ac- count of the confinement of political prisoners, the military discipline observed within, and in the immediate neighbour- hood of, this prison is exceedingly severe. The Maison Centrah is at Poissy; but persons condemned to forced labour are re- moved first to the Nouveau Bicetre, rue de la Roquette, and thence to the various Bagnes at the sea-ports. Political of- fenders condemned to long periods are confined at Doulens, Clairvaux, and other places. St. Lazare, rue du Faubourg St. Denis.—- This was the ancient convent of the Lazarisls; but is now converted into a general prison for females committed for trial, or con- demned to imprisonment for terms not exceeding 1 year. The Maison Cenlrale to which they are sent for longer periods is at Clermont. Here all prostitutes, condemned to short imprisonment for offences against the sanitary or civic regulations of the police, are confined either in the infirmary or the prison. Children under 16 years of age are kept by hemselves; and women condemned by the tribunals also 52 INTRODUCTION. form a separate class. The persons committed for trial have a distinct part of the prison allotted to them. Each class has its own separate infirmary, and to all arc attached workshops, in which the prisoners labour at various trades. The distri- bution and internal regulation of this prison are very good, and every encouragement is given to the prisoners who show a disposition of amendment. To this end they are allowed out of their earnings two-thirds, and their daily gain may amount tol fr. or 1^. All sorts of manufactures are carried on here; the preparation of hooks and eyes, of cashmere yarn, and of phosphorus-boxes, being the chief. To this prison is also attached the general bakehouse of all the prisons, as well as the general laundry and linen depot. A separate ward of this prison is allotted to female debtors, who have single apartments at a very low rate. A large chapel stands in the middle of the prison, and the women confined here attend service in it every Sunday. The average number of persons of all descriptions confined here is from 800 to 1)00; and the annual movement of the population of the prison is about 10,000. Prison de la Roquette, rue de la Roquellc. — The name of this prison is not yet fixed, and it is known by this appel- lation as well as by that of the Nouveau Bicetre. It is allotted to the reception of prisoners condemned either to forced la- bour in the Bagnes, or to death. It consists of a pile of building surrounding a large quadrangular court about 180 ft. by 150 ft., three storeys high; the lower of which is occu- pied by workshops, refectories, etc., the two upper by the prisoners' cells. The greater part of the western side is allotted to the lodgings of the director, and other officers, the general linen-store, etc. In this side, too, is the entrance, the porter's lodge, the corps de garde, etc. A small court, added to the eastern side, is surrounded by the chapel and in- firmary. At the same time that this prison is light, airy, and healthy, it is one of the strongest houses of confinement ever erected. A double court surrounds the whole, in which surveillans and sentinels constantly keep guard : the walls and iron fastenings are all of extraordinary solidity : each prisoner has a separate room, in which he is fastened at night ; and there are cachots, or dark chambers, for refractory prisoners, as well as three condemned cells for prisoners un- der sentence of death. The total number of prisoners that can be kept here is 280. A fountain in the middle of the PRISONS. 53 great court gives a constant supply of water, and every pro- vision is adopted for the cleanliness and health of the pri- soners. The chapel is large and commodious, and service is performed in it every Sunday. This, house, both for the style of its architecture and the excellent taste and judgment that have dictated its distribution, may be looked upon as a model for all others of the kind : the gloomy air of a prison is almost entirely avoided both without and within; the in- spection of the prisoners is perfectly provided for ; and every improvement that humanity can suggest has been adopted. It was built by M. Gau, in the short space of 18 months, and cost only 1,245,000 fr. Prison pour les Jeunes Detenus, rue de la Roquette.— This prison, which stands immediately opposite the last named one, has the air more of a feudal castle than of a house of de- tention, and in its internal arrangements is calculated for a hos- pital, or an immense college, equally as well as for a place of punishment. It was built by M. Dubas. it consists of a regularly hexagonal pile of building, with circular turrets at the angles, from each of which piles of building converge to a circular one in the centre. Six courts are thus inclosed, all of which are built on precisely the same model. The cen- tral building, which is perfectly isolated from all others, and is approached only by iron bridges, contains, below the level of the soil, in a large circular area, the kitchens: above these, on the ground floor, is the general parloir, so contrived that the prisoners of each section are kept by themselves, and that a guardian is always placed in a corridor between them and their friends. Above the parloir is the chapel, forming the whole of the upper part of the building ; this is so con- trived that the prisoners of each division enter it separately, and, when once in, can see nothing in it but the altar and themselves. Each court contains on the ground floor 2 workshops, and a spacious refectory : while the three upper storeys contain 95 separate chambers, each 7 ft. 8 in. square by ft. high, with a window looking into the court, and a door opening into a corridor. The court contains a fountain in the middle planted round with chestnut trees. The pri- soners are divided according to the length of their sentence of confinement, and live in separate courts according as they are confined for 0 months, 1 year, 2, 3, 4, and 5 years. Those of one court can never have any intercourse with those of another; and the strictest surveillance is maintained over 5. 54 INTRODUCTION. the prisoners night and day. On the eastern side of the prison are the director s house and other apartments for officers con- nected with the house : on the western, is the infirmary, and a large well with a wheel attached to it, worked like a tread- mill by refractory prisoners. This supplies water to the whole of this as well as the opposite prison. A school of mu- tual instruction is established in one of the refectories, and another is used as a place of meeting for the council. The average number of prisoners is 390, and the annual move- ment of the population of the prison is about 825. The Maison Centrale is at Clermont. Depot de la Prefecture be Police. — The prison ad- joining the Prefecture was built in 1828, at an expense of 300,000 fr. It is a place of temporary confinement, where persons arrested are detained till examination takes place. It is divided into two parts: the Salle St. Martin is for those who can afford to pay for lodgings and accommodations. A build- ing three storeys in height serves, on the first floor, for the detention of prostitutes ; on the second for tho?c accused of crime ; and on the third for those arrested for minor offences. The Conctergerie, in the Palais de Justice, is used as a depot for prisoners during their trial, and is sometimes em- ployed as a receptacle for notorious prisoners before their committal. The buildings are badly suited for their purpose, and its proximity to the courts of justice is the only quality that recommends it. The population of this prison is of course very fluctuating and uncertain. For the remarkable historical associations connected with this prison, and for a description of the building itself, the reader is referred to the 9th Arron- dissement.(l) Prison de l'Abbaye.- — This was formerly a house of de- tention within the jurisdiction of the Abbey of St. Germain des Pres, in the immediate neighbourhood of which it stands. It contains several dungeons below the ground, and is the most gloomy of any of the places of confinement in Paris. The horrors which took place here during the revolution are loo well known to need further allusion. This prison now serves as a house of arrest for military offences : the house of detention is fixed in the Chateau of St. Germain. — Another (i) The prisons des Madelonnetles, dc *Blhfor% and if, rue Gres St, Jacques, are not taken notice ofhere, because they have been abolished, and replaced by those of the rue de la Roquetle. LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS* 55 military prison was formerly established in the College de Montaigu, Place du Pantheon ; this is now done away with. For permission to visit this prison special application must be made to the Minister of War, but on account of the strictness of military discipline the greatest difficulty may be expected in obtaining it. Closely connected with the prisons are the following bene- volent institutions : — SOCIETE TOUR LE SOUL AGEMENT ET LA DELIVRANCE DES Prisonniers. — From 1597 to 1790, a benevolent society em- ployed funds in procuring the discharge of debtors ; another society afforded relief to them and their families. These in- stitutions now form one association, which is supported by public contributions. The archbishop of Paris is president, and the association consists principally of ladies. The trear surer lives at 29, rue du Vieux Colombier. SOCIETE ROYALE POUR L' AMELIORATION DES PRISONS. — The object of this society is to concur with the public ad- ministration by introducing into the prisons of the kingdom all the ameliorations required by religion, morality, justice, and humanity. SOCIETE POUR LE PATRONAGE DES JeUNES LlBKRKS. — This excellent institution, founded in 1833, is intended for the management of young prisoners while in confinement, and for their superintendence after the expiration of their punish- ment. Each member has a young prisoner under his own espe- cial care, and whose patron he is. The most gratifying effects have already resulted from the efforts of this society, which is authorized and assisted by government. The conduct of the prisoners is greatly improved, and the number of cases of recommittal diminished from 60 to 20 per cent. An annual meeting for the distribution of prizes for good conduct, etc., is held at the Hotel de Ville ; and a report of the proceedings of the society is published every year. The secretary's office is at 12, rue Chanoinesse. LAWS OF FRANCE AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. The substance of the following notice is entirely extracted from the valuable work of Mr. Okey on this subject — a book that ought to be in the library of every person domiciliated in France. We have merely abridged a few of the more im- portant subjects, altering their arrangement, and refer the reader for fuller information to the work itself. Births. — The French law requires that every birth be de- 56 INTRODUCTION. clared to the mayor of the commune, or arrondissement in Paris, within 3 days after it takes piace ; and that the child be produced to the officer who registers the acte de naissance, The father, or in his absence the midwife, or medical man who attended at the birth, must make the declaration. The acte must be drawn up immediately after the birth in the presence of 2 witnesses; and must state the day, hour, and place of birth; the sex, christian and surnames of the child, and the names of the parents and witnesses, with their profession and domicile. This acte is usually drawn up at the mairie. Parties not complying with these formalities are subject to fine and imprisonment. An authentic extract from the mayor' s regis- ter is valid as a proof of birth in England. Children born of foreigners are foreigners ; but, within one year after coming of age, they can claim the rights of French citizens. Marriages. — A marriage between two British subjects in a foreign country is valid in England in the two following cases: either when the contracting parties have made affi- davits that they are of age and at liberty to contract, (which affidavits, being made before the proper officer appointed by the British ambassador in that country, must be presented to the chaplain of the embassy), and when the marriage has thereupon been solemnized in the ambassador's house according to the laws of England; or else when the parties have been married in strict conformity to the law of the country. If one of the parlies be a British subject and the other not, the marriage ought to be celebrated according to the forms of the country, before solemnization in the ambassador's house. The for- malities required by the French law consist of publication and registration by the mayor, accompanied by declaration of con- sent of natural guardians, proof of legal age, testimony of witnesses, etc., all of w hich may be learnt on application at the mairie, or from the Code Civile. Other modifications of the laws of marriage will be found in the work of Mr. Okey. According to the laws both of France and England, the wife, if previously belonging to another country, becomes on mar- riage a citizen of the same country as her husband; but an Englishwoman, married to a Frenchman, does not lose all her English rights. The law of settlements, in the case of a mar- riage between parties of different countries, is open to great difficulty ; and a lawyer's advice is absolutely necessary in such cases. Generally speaking, the settlement of English property should be effected in England, though it may be per- LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. formed with equal validity in France : and all settlements, to be binding by French law, must be executed before the act of marriage. The law of France does not take cognizance of the law of divorce. Deaths. — In case of death, it is requisite that a declaration thereof should be made at the mairieby the relatives or friends of the deceased, or by the person at whose house the death took place. The body is then visited by a physician ap- pointed by the mayor to ascertain the causes of dissolution, and cannot be interred without authorisation from him, nor until 24 hours after the decease, except in cases otherwise provided for by the regulations of the police. In case a de- ceased person leaves personal property, seals are affixed there- on by the juge de paix, till the heirs or legatees can establish their claims, in order that the effects may not be exposed to depredation; and in the event of the absence of the parties in- terested, the seals remain unbroken till they can take possession in person or by proxy. The affixing of seals may be required by the heir or representatives of the deceased, by any person interested in the property, by creditors, servants, etc. With regard to foreigners, the juge de paix proceeds to this formality of his own accord, as soon as intelligence of a death reaches him. The seals cannot be removed under three days from the time of their being affixed, or from the day of the burial, and then only by order of the juge de paix formally de- manded. Wills. — " A British subject, domiciled abroad, must con- form in his testamentary acts to the formalities required by the law of the land of domicile." A will made in France, and disposing of lands in England, must, according to the English law, be in writing, signed by the party devising, or by some other in his presence, and by his direction, and at- tested in his presence by 3 or 4 credible witnesses. A will made in a foreign Country, disposing of goods in England, must be proved in England ; but if the goods are all abroad, the will must be proved according to the custom of the country where the testator died. If the will is in a foreign language, the probate is granted of a translation by a notary public. Great inconvenience is experienced where an executor is not appointed to a foreign will. According to the laws of France, a will may be olographic, made by public act, or in the secret form:— An olographic will should be written throughout, dated, and signed by the testator. A single word in the hand 58 INTRODUCTION. of another person would render it null and void. The will by public act is received by two notaries in the presence of two witnesses, or by one notary in the presence of four wit- nesses ; in both cases it must be read over to the testator in the presence of the witnesses ; and mention must be made in the will of all these circumstances. If the will be dictated in a particular or provincial idiom, the notary will write it in cor- rect language. The will must be signed by the testator, or, if he cannot write, express mention must be made. in the will of his declaration to that effect. The will must be signed by the witnesses. When a testator makes a mystic or secret will, he must sign it, whether he has written it himself or caused it to be written by another. The paper containing it must be scaled. The testator must present it thus sealed to the notary, and six witnesses, at least, or cause it to be closed and sealed in their presence, and must declare that the contents of such deed are his will, written and signed by himself, or written by another, and signed by himself. The notary thereon draws up the superscription, which must be written on the paper, or on the sheet w hich serves as a cover, and this must be signed, as well by the testator as by the notary, and the witnesses. Persons who cannot read are not allowed to dis- pose of their property by a mystic or secret will. In case a testator cannot speak, but is able to write, he may make a mystic will, provided it is throughout written, dated, and signed by himself; and at the time of delivering it to the notary in the presence of witnesses, he writes at the top of the superscription that the deed which he delivers is his will. An English subject dying in France may dispose of his pro- perty in England according to the English law: but all real property in France, though possessed by an English subject, follows the French law of succession. By the law of France, a testator, leaving at his decease one legitimate child, may dis- pose of not more than half of his property; if two children, of the third part ; if there are more than two children, a fourth part only will be at his disposal. Under the title of children are included their descendants, in whatever degree, claiming in right of the child from whom they descend. Upon the failure of legitimate heirs, the property passes to natural children, and then to the surviving parent. Civil Rights. — All persons residing in France are subject to the police laws, and are bound to observe every regulation connected with the public safety. An important difference is LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 50 to be remarked between residence and domicile. A foreigner resident in France enjoys the same civil rights as are or may be granted to Frenchmen by the treaties with the nation to which such foreigner belongs; with this important addition in his favour, that by a liberal provision of the French law he enjoys the right of succession in France, although it may not be granted to French citizens in his own country . He cannot, however, establish his domicile in France without the King's express permission; this being obtained, he is then admitted to the participation and enjoyment of all the civil, though not of the political, rights of French subjects. A foreigner merely domiciled in France still continues subject to the laws of his own country, and his children are also foreigners, until they have complied with the law relative to the denization of children born of foreigners in France. A foreigner, after 10 years' domiciliation in France, may, on compliance with certain forms, become naturalized. But letters of naturalization may be granted to foreigners, who have rendered essential service to the state, at the end of one year. Arrest. — ** By the French law, a foreigner not domiciled in France may, when a debt has become due, be arrested conditionally, and before payment of the debt has been ad- judged by the Tribunal de Premiere Instance ; but it is neces- sary that a Frenchman be, in such cases, the actual creditor, and not one who has become so by the assignment of a debt contracted by one foreigner with another." No foreigner in France, although admitted to the enjoyment of civil rights, can pursue another foreigner for debt. Arrest must not be for less than 200 fr. ; nor can it be made, unless by virtue of a judgment; and persons of 70 years of age, women, and minors, are not liable to be arrested. This privilege extends to foreigners as well as citizens. Arrest neither prevents nor suspends proceedings and execution against the goods of the debtor. In commercial matters, even against women and minors, arrest is much more generally allowed than in civil cases. Arrest must not take place before sunrise nor -after sunset ; nor on fete days ; nor in buildings dedicated to divine worship; nor at the seat of constituted authorities; nor in any house whatever, even in the domicile of the debtor, if entrance is refused, unless permitted by the Juge de Paix of the place, who must in such case accompany the officer. The prisoner may demand to be immediately taken to the President 60 INTRODUCTION. of the Tribunal de Premiere Instance of the place where the arrest has been made, who will decide as an arbitrator. Imprisonment for Debt. — The keeper of the prison, on receiving the prisoner, must enter in the prison-book, or re- gister, the judgment which authorises the arrest. This must be written in a certain prescribed form, and must also certify the deposit of at least one month's prison allowance by the creditor, who must always make this deposit beforehand. A debtor may obtain his liberation by the consent of the cre- ditor, and of all who have lodged detainers against him, given before a notary, or entered on the register of the prison; by the payment into the hands of a third person of the debts and costs of all detaining creditors, with interest, allowance-mo- ney, and other expenses incurred by the imprisonment ; by a discharge on ground of insolvency, giving up all he possesses, his future effects remaining liable to his creditors; by the de- fault of the creditor to assign in advance sufficient prison-al- lowance, fixed at 30 fr. a-month; and by the prisoner having entered his 70th year. Whether the principal debt be of a commercial or a civil nature, imprisonment, in all cases, ceases after 2 years, if it does not amount to 500 fr. ; after 4 years, when below 1,000 fr. ; after 6 years, when below 3,000 fr. ; after 8 years, when below 5,000 fr. ; after 10 years, when above 5,000 fr. and upwards. The liberation for default of prison-allowance is ordered by the president of the tribunal on petition, accompanied by certificate from the prison-keeper that no allowance has been afforded by the cre- ditor. The debtor so liberated cannot again be arrested by the creditor, except on payment of all costs incurred by the former in obtaining his liberation, with a deposit of 6 months* allowance in advance, in the hands of the prison-keeper. Actes. — In drawing up civil documents, the French law requires that the year, day, and hour of the acte be men- tioned, together with the christian names, surnames, ages, professions, and domiciles of all persons concerned in them. No abbreviation may be used, nor any date inserted in figures. Ambassadors, Consuls, etc. — By the law of nations, the hotel of an ambassador is considered as forming part of the territory of the nation which he represents. This privilege, however, does not invalidate the right of a child of a foreigner, born within the precincts of the hotel, to become a French subject on its coming of age. The person of the ambassador is free from arrest or any civil process, and so are his servants, LAWS AFFECTING- BRITISH RESIDENTS. 61 secretaries, etc. ; but the same privilege does not apply to the person of a consul. The duties of a consul are very ex- tensive : he has to watch over the commercial interests of his nation ; to protect his countrymen who may be in distress, and in some cases to exercise judicial authority over them. He is also bound to register births, marriages, and deaths ; and, in case of his being at a port, to see that no vessel of his own country leaves it without all due claims upon the master and crew being previously settled. In Paris the consular department is added to that of the embassy, and the offlce is in the same hotel. Bills of Exchange. — By the law of France all endorse- ments upon bills of exchange, etc. are required to be special. Unless a bill of exchange is payable to order it cannot be ne- gotiated. A French holder of a bill of exchange, drawn out of France by and on foreigners, may, if the acceptor comes to France, sue him before the French tribunals, provided such holder became possessed of the bill before its maturity. The holder of a bill of exchange protested for non-payment may, upon procuring the order of a judge, distrain the goods and chattels of the drawer, the acceptor, and the indorscrs ; which, when so taken, are deposited in the hands of justice to answer the amount of the debt. Actions upon bills of exchange are limited to 5 years from the date of the protest, or from the last legal proceedings upon it. Witnesses, according to French law, must be men, fo- reigners or natives, 21 years of age; but in case of attestation to a will they must not be legatees, nor relatives or con- nexions, even to the fourth degree inclusively, nor even the clerks of the notaries by whom the acte is drawn up. A Quaker is allowed to make an affirmation instead of an oath. Duels. — It has been decided by a French tribunal that, an individual having killed his adversary in a duel, an action may be maintained by the widow and orphans of the deceased for damages. Copyright. — Since the French law gives to the authors of works of literature and the fine arts the sole property and dis- posal of them during their own lives, and to their heirs and successors for a certain period, the importation into France of works originating there, and pirated in a foreign country, is a misdemeanour. Authors, whether natives or foreigners, may dispose of their property to another person, who then becomes entitled to the same rights. 6 02 INTRODUCTION. Port d'Armes. — Permission to carry arms may be obtained at any prefecture, but must receive a vise at each change of department. It is not transferable, it costs 15 fr. and is valid for only 1 year. The sportsman should always carry it about him, since a gendarme, or other authorised guard, may always demand to see it; and, if not produced, a summons before a tribunal may be made, which will be attended with expence. Sporting must not be on another's property without leave, and on no uninclosed property out of the proper season ; the duration of the season being annually regulated by public authority. Fishing. — Every person is allowed to fish with the line only, the spawning-season excepted, in all rivers, canals, and navigable streams belonging to government, and in all de- pendencies of such streams, etc., where a fishing-boat can pass. Every person fishing in private waters, without per- mission from the owner of the right of the fishery, is liable to a fine of 20 to 100 fr., besides damages. National Guard. — Although the decisions of thejuges de paix have not been quite uniform upon the subject, it appears that any foreigner, who has acquired civil rights, is liable to be called on to serve in the national guard ; but in that case only. Carriers. — The proprietors of public carriages are liable in France for the full value of objects entrusted to their care and lost, although the value of them may not have been de- clared. This does not apply to the luggage of a passenger, if given to the conduct cut* of a vehicle, without having been previously entered on the way-bill. Innkeepers and masters of hotels, in France, are respon- sible for the property brought info their house by a traveller, and for all robberies committed by servants or strangers, ex- cept in the case of an armed or superior force. This holds good even if the traveller leaves the key in the lock of his door during the night, because he may then count upon the same security as in his own house; but not so if he leaves the key in during the day, because this is held to be an act of imprudence. Innkeepers and persons letting furnished lodg- ings may detain the effects of a lodger in case of non-payment, except the clothes actually in use ; they cannot, however, touch the goods of a deceased or' departed guest, but must ob- tain the authority of the Tribunal de Premiere Instance to sell a portion of it, enough to satisfy (heir claim. LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 63 Servants, if hired by itae day, are paid accordingly, and dismissed at pleasure ; those hired hy the year are paid by the calendar month, and are entitled to eight days' warning or wages on being dismissed; but must, if required, serve the eight days. The servant is also obliged to give eight days' warning to the master. The contract for hiring is not binding upon the servant until money has been received as an earnest from the master. The master is in all cases believed on affir- mation as to the amount and payment of wages. Apartment. — An apartment, hotel, house, or shop, may be rented in France either by paroie or by writing. Leases are either executed before notaries or privately ; they must be written on stamped paper, and care should be taken to observe all the formalities required by the law for actes. The rent is always payable at the end of each quarter, or terme; the quarter-days being in reality on the first day of January, April, July, and October ; but in all cases 14 days' grace are allowed, when the rent exceeds 400 fr. per annum, and 8 days when under that sum. Foreigners in France are sometimes required to pay the month, or terme, in advance. The lessee, on quilting the premises, should return all keys as a sign that tenancy is at an end before the pay-day of the terme ; the re- pairs requisite must have been completed, the rent paid, and proof of due payment of taxes having been made, must be given. Any opposition on either side is noticeable by a juge de paix. A lessee may underlet or assign his lease, if there is no provision in it to the contrary ; but he is responsible for the conduct of his tenant, and for his own rent as principal tenant to the proprietor. The assignee, or under-tenant, is not liable to the original lessor beyond the amount of rent due by the under-lease or assignment; but he cannot set up payment of rent made by anticipation to his own landlord as a bar to a legal claim by the original lessor. A lessee who does not put upon the premises sufficient furniture or moveables to answer the amount of the rent, may be ejected, unless he gives additional sufficient security. When a plan of the pre- mises, or an inventory of their fittings, has been made by the contracting parties, the lessee is bound to restore every thing as he found it; excepting what may have become damaged by time and fortuitous events. With this exception, the lessee .may alter the premises as much as he pleases. If no plan or inventory has been made, the tenant is bound to give up pos- session of them in good condition. All tenants of a house are 64 INTRODUCTION. severally and jointly responsible for fire, unless it is proved that the fire began in the apartment of one of them, or was communicated from a neighbouring house. If during a lease repairs become absolutely necessary, the lessee is bound to suffer them ; but if they last more than 40 days, the rent is diminishable in consequence. The cleansing of wells and sewers is at the expense of the lessor, if there is no provision in the lease to the contrary. In taking an apartment, as soon as the bargain is made with the proprietor, it is usual to give a trifle as earnest-money to the porter. Notice of quittal must he given 6 weeks, at least, before-hand, when the annual rent is under 400 fr., and a quarter when it is above that sum. As soon as notice is given, the tenant cannot refuse to show the apartments to persons who come with a view to hire, pro- vided it is not at an unseasonable hour. FORM OF A LEASE. Je, — proprietaire (or) principal locataire de — maison, la loue an sieur — • — — (or) a la dame (or) loue au sieur (or) a la dame — , — boutique, apparte- ment, cliambre, au etage, dans ladite maison (describing them aceuratelij), pour — annees, qui commenceront h courir ce jourd'hui (or the day), pour prix (the amount), payable a (the time of payment), et sous toutes les obligations imposees aux loeataires et reglees par le code civil. Et moi (the lessee) prends la presente location comme et ainsi qu'elle est ci-dessus stipulee. Fait double entre nous, a le mil huit cent trente — ( The signatures.) RECEIPT FOU RENT. Je soussigne, proprietaire de maison, sise rue — — , no. — (or) principal locataire, [or) fonde dc la procuration de M.' ■ — , proprietaire de — - — -maison situee, etc., la dite procu- ration en date du — , dument enregistree, reconnais avoir recu de M. , locataire de appartement au — — — etage, (or) d'une boutique, de ladite maison, la somme de — , pour trois (or) pour six mois (or) pour tin an, des loyers du dit apparte- ment par lui occupe, echus le , et la somme de pour sa contribution de portes et fenetres ; dont quittance, sans pre- judice du terme courant (or) de Pannee courante, (or) pour solde du dernier terme du loyer du dit sieur ■ ■■ . — . A Paris, ce mil huit cent trente— (The signature.) PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. m (&ha$Uie 3. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. vi\'r\c\*itii *»ri vlvnolJii i9*ixnofn wocnii '/iovSi -il 00g«1 io ^'iidr,* SCIENTIFIC AND LITERARY. livsTiTtiT de France. — The National Convention, by a decree of 1793, abolished all the literary and scientific socie- ties, denominated academies, established during the reigns of Louis XOI. and Louis XIV.; and the arts and sciences seemed condemned to oblivion. After the fall of Robespierre, the Convention, upon the proposition of the Abbe Gregoire, in the name of the Committee of Public Instruction, appointed a committee for the preservation of the monuments of France ; ordained the creation of the Polytechnic school and the Normal school, the opening of the colleges and schools, and founded the Conservatoire de Musique, the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, etc. By a decree of October 26th, 1795 (3 Bru- inaire. An IV.), the Convention founded the Instilut, to re- place the former academies. The Directory appointed a cer- tain number of members, who in their turn invited to join them such persons as they considered worthy. The Institute was originally divided into three classes : the first, physical and mathematical sciences; the second, moral and political sciences; and the third, literature and the fine arts. Bona- parte, who was elected a member of the mathematical section of the Institute, on the 2Glhof December, 1797, having be- come Consul, divided the Institute into four classes, in 1803 ; the first comprehended the physical and mathematical sciences ; the second had for its object the French language and litera- ture; the third, ancient history and literature ; and the fourth, the fine arls. Upon the restoration, Louis XVIII. issued an or- donnance, dated March 21, 1816, by which, for the four classes of the Institute, four academies were substituted; viz. 1, the Academic Fran$aisc ; 2. the Academic Royaledes Inscriptions et Belles -Lettres ; 3, the Academic Royale des Sciences ; 4, the Academic Royale des Beaux-Arts, and some of the most celebrated members being dismissed, others were substituted by royal nomination, and the academies were taken under the special protection of the king. In 1832 a fifth Academie 9 0. 66 INTRODUCTION. under the name of Academic cles Sciences Morales et Politiques, was founded. The funds common to all the academies are managed by a committee of 10 members, two from each aca- demy, presided over by the Minister of Public Instruction. The nominations to vacant places are balloted for in each academy, subject to the approval of the king. The members of one academy are eligible to all the others; and each receives a salary of 1,500 fr. Every time a member attends, he receives a counter to denote that he was present; and were he not to attend during the year, his salary would be but 1,200 fr., and the remaining 300 would be divided among those who were present at the meetings. Each academy has its special rules and funds at its own disposal. The library, collections, etc., of the Institute are common to the five academies. The Insti- tute comprises altogether 217 titular members, 45 free aca- demicians, who receive no salary, 31 associates, and 219 correspondents. The Academic Francaise consists of 40 members, who are charged with the examination of important works in literature, with a view to the improvement of the language. This aca- demy adjudges alternately an annual prize of 1,500 fr. for poetry and eloquence. It also decrees two annual prizes founded by M. Montyon, one for the work most useful to public morals, and another for an act of virtue displayed in the lower classes of society. The Academic des Inscriptions et Belles-Lettres is also composed of 40 members and 10 free academicians. The learned languages, antiquities, and monuments, are the objects of their researches and labours. Their attention is particularly directed to the translation of Greek, Latin, and Oriental works into the French language, and to the formation of diplomatic collections. This academy adjudges an annual prize of l,500fr. for literary memoirs. Medals, also, are distributed to such persons as produce the best memoirs upon the antiquities of France. The Academic des Sciences contains (53 members, 10 free* academicians, and 10 associates. It is divided into 11 sections, as follows : — Geometry, 6 members ; mechanics, 6 ; as- tronomy, 0 ; geography and navigation, 3 ; general philo- sophy, 6; chemistry, 6; mineralogy, 6; botany, 6; rural economy and the veterinary art, 6 ; anatomy and zoology, 6 ; medicine and surgery, 0. The annual prizes adjudged by this academy are 1 of 3,000 fr. for physical sciences ; 1 for statis- PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 67 tics; 1 for experimental physiology; and 1 for mechanics. It also adjudges prizes for improvements in medicine and sur- gery; for discoveries relative to the treatment of patients; for the means of rendering an art or trade less insalubrious ; for works or discoveries published in the course of the year upon objects of utility; and one by M. Lalandc, for the prin- cipal astronomical discovery or observation. The Academie des Beaux Arts is composed of 40 members, 10 free academicians, and 10 associates. It is divided into sections, designated and composed as follows: — Painting, 14 members; sculpture, 8; architecture, 8; engraving, 4; musi- cal composition, 0. It also distributes annual prizes. Those who obtain the grand prizes of painting, sculpture, architec- ture, and musical composition, are sent to Rome, and sup- ported there by tSie French Academy, at the expense of the government. The Academie des Sciences Morales el Politiqxies is formed by 30 members, 5 free academicians, and 5 associates; and occupies itself with history, and the moral and historical sciences. A secretary is attached to each academy, and two to that of sciences. Each academy meets once a week, and the annual united meeting of the Ave academies takes place on the 1st of May. On public occasions the members of the Institute wear a costume of black, embroidered with olive leaves in green silk. Bureau des Longitudes. — This society, formed in 1795, for the discovery of methods for the more accurate determina- tion of longitudes at sea, and for the improvement of naviga- tion by means of astronomical observations, holds its meetings at the Observatory. It is -composed of 3 mathematicians, 4 as- tronomers, 4 adjunct astronomers, 2 navigators, 1 geographer, and 2 instrument makers. It has at its disposal the Paris Ob- servatory and that of the Ecole Militaire, together with all the astronomical instruments belonging to government. It corre- sponds with the other observatories of France, and with those of foreign countries ; and suggests to the government where it is desirable to establish observatories. The bureau is charged to draw up the Connaissance des Temps, or Account of the motion of the celestial bodies, for the use of astronomers and navigators, and to publish it several years beforehand. 16 revises and corrects the astronomical tables and methods of longitudes, and devotes its attention to the publication of astronomical and meteorological observations. One of the 68 INTRODUCTION. members delivers annually, at the Observatory, a public course of lectures on astronomy. The bureau publishes every year an Annuaire, which it presents to the king, with the Con- naissance des Temps. Academse Royale de Mebkcine. — Previous to the Revo- lution, there was an Academy of Medicine and another of Sur- gery. The former was created in 1776, and the latter in 1731. Upon the formation of the Institute, the Medical Aca- demy was annexed to the class of the sciences. By an orclon- nance of December 20th, 1820, the Academy was restored. The object of its institution is to reply to inquiries of the go- vernment relative to everything that concerns the public health. It was definitively organized by royal ordonnanees in 1829 and 1835; and consists of 175 resident members, 19 free mem- bers, 25 country members, and 22 foreign associates. The number of its correspondents is unlimited. The academy meets once a-monlh at 8, rue de Poitiers. UNIVERSITY OF FRANCE. The large and flourishing University of Paris was founded, it is said, by Charlemagne; its early celebrity and the im- portant part which it bore not only in the history of Paris, but also of France, are well known. The number of Uni- versities in France at the commencement of the Revolution was 10 or 12, independent of the various colleges and schools founded by different religious orders; but at that period the whole were dissolved. After various attempts to supply their place by the establishment of primary, secondary, and cen- tral schools in the departments, government adopted a plan of public education entirely new. For the courts of Justice, which had succeeded to the ancient Parlements established in various parts of France, 25 courts of appeal were created in the principal towns, and the whole Ordre Judiciaire was made subordinate to a grand judge, Minister of Justice. In like manner, one imperial university, consisting of as many aca- demies as there were courts of appeal, was established for all France, under the direction of a council and a grand master. Upon the restoration in 1814, Louis XVIil. abolished the office of grand judge, but retained the courts of appeal, now called Cours Royales ; and, at the same time, did away with the council and grand master of the university, but kept up the academies. The council was afterwards re-established, under the liUe of Consort Royal de I 1 Instruction Publique, and PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 69 placed under the authority of the Minister of the Interior ; and in 1822, the office of grand master, who is also Minister of Public Instruction, was restored. The council consists of 9 members, including the secretary. There are also 17 in- spectors-general of studies. An academy in France there- fore includes, in general, every establishment for education ; and none whatever can be created without the permission of the Royal Council of Public Instruction. The University is composed as follows : — 1, les Facultcs ; 2, les Colleges Royaux et Colleges Communaux : 3, les Institutions et Pensions ; 4, les Ecoles Primaires. The university possesses a library, which is placed at the Sorbonne, and special funds for grant- ing pensions to superannuated and infirm teachers. The Academy of Paris consists of 5 faculties — Sciences, Letters, Theology, Law, and Medicine. The 3 first faculties are established at the Sorbonne, and comprise the following professors: — Sciences: physical astronomy, differential and integral calculus, algebra, mechanics, descriptive geometry, chemistry, mineralogy, botany, zoology, and comparative physiology, with 8 supplementary professors. — Letters : Greek literature, Latin eloquence, Latin poetry, French eloquence, French literature and poetry, philosophy, history of ancient philosophy, history of modern philosophy, ancient history, modern history, geography, foreign literature, besides 7 sup- plementary professors. — Theology: dogmatic theology, mo- rality, sacred scriptures, ecclesiastical history and government, sacred eloquence, Hebrew, with 5 supplementary professors. The Faculty of Law is established at the Ecole de Droit, place du Pantheon. It has the following professors: — Civil code, 4 professors ; civil and criminal procedure and criminal legislation ; commercial code ; administrative law ; French constitutional law ; law of nations ; Roman law, 2 professors ; Pandects; history of law ; besides 9 supplementary professors. To be admitted to follow these courses, the student must bring a diploma of bachelicr~es-leltres . The Faculty of Medicine is established at the Ecole de Medecine, 14, rue de V Ecole de Medecine. It comprises the following professors: — anatomy ; medical chemistry ; materia medica and therapeutics ; hygiene; pharmacy; internal pa- thology, 2 professors; external pathology, 2 professors; opera- tions; midwifery and diseases of children ; forensic, medicine ; internal clinics, 4 professors; external clinics, 4 professors; 70 INTRODUCTION. pathology and general therapeutics; medical physics; medi- cal natural history ; physiology ; phrenology ; together with 2 honorary professors. To all the above faculties a certain number of professeurs- agrcges, or assistant professors, are attached. From them the regular professors are chosen. The salaries of the professors vary from 2,000 fr. to 8,000 fr. All professors' lectures are public and gratuitous. To all these lectures, as well as to the privilege of graduation, foreigners are admitted under certain regulations, which may be known on application at the seats of the faculties. CI) Degrees. — Faculty of Science. — To obtain the following degrees the candidates must be bachciicrs es-lelires , and must pass the following examinations: Bachelier-es-sciences ma- Ihcmat/iques : arithmetic, geometry and algebra, plane trigo- nometry, analytical geometry, and the elements of physics, as taught in the royal colleges. — -Bachelier-es-sciences physiques : elementary mathematics of 1st year of philosophy ; elements of physics, chemistry, and the three branches of natural his- tory, according to the programmes of the royal colleges. — Licencie-es- sciences mathematiques : differential and integral calculus, and mechanics. — lAcencie-es-scien ces physiques, chemistry and physics. — Licencie-es-sciences naturelles : mi- neralogy, botany, and zoology. — To become a licentiate, the degree of bachelor must have been taken, and two courses of the faculty in the same year must have been followed. — Docteur-es-sciences : candidates are required to sustain two theses on the subjects of one of the 3 licentiate's examina- tions. Faculty of Letters. -~>Bachelier-es-letlres : the candidates must be 16 years of age at least, and produce a certificate of having attended a course of rhetoric, and one or two distinct annual courses of philosophy. (2) Licencie-es-lettres : the candidate must be a bachelor of one year's standing, and (i) In France there are G faculties of catholic theology, esta- blished at Paris, Rouen, Bordeaux, Lyon, Aix, and Toulouse } and i of protestant theology, at Strasburg and Montpellier. There are 9 faculties of law, at Paris, Gaen, Dijon, Grenoble, Toulouse, Aix, Poitiers, Rennes, and Strasburg. Three faculties of medicine, at Paris, Montpellier, and Strasburg. Five faculties of sciences and letters, at Paris, Caen, Dijon, Gre- noble, and Montpellier . {2) See Manuel da JJa cca laurea L~eS"Lettres * FUBLtC INSTITUTIONS. 71 have attended 4 courses of the faculty. The examination consists in compositions in French, Latin, and Greek, and in literary, philosophical, and historical questions. — Doctcur-es* lettres : he must be a licentiate, and sustain two theses ; one in Latin on a philosophical subject, the other in French on a subject of ancient or modern literature. Faculty of Theology. — The degrees of bachelor, licen- tiate, and doctor, are also conferred in this faculty. By an ordonnance of Dec. 25, 1830, no one can be a professor of theology without having taken the degree of doctor in that faculty ; nor curate of a chief town of a department, or any higher functionary in the church, without being a licentiate; nor curate of a chief town of a canton without being bachelor, unless the functions of curate or officiating minister have been performed by him for 15 or 10 years. Faculty of Law. — To graduate in this faculty students must be Bacheliers-es-leltres , and must fulfil certain conditions of entering their names, etc.. Bachelier-en-droit : two exa- minations are necessary for this degree, which is taken at the end of the 2nd year; the first in the civil code and the Insti- tutes of Justinian, the second in the civil code, and the codes of procedure, penal laws, and criminal process. — Licencic-en- droit: a third year's study is requisite for this degree, and 2 examinations, besides a public act, one in the Roman laws the other in the civil and commercial codes, and in admini- strative law. — Docteur-en-droii : a fourth year is necessary for this degree; two examinations and a public act ; one in Roman law, the other in the civil code, the law of nations, the history of lav/, and constitutional law. Faculty of Medicine.— -This faculty confers only the de- gree of Doctor, for which a candidate must be a Bachelier- es-lettres, and pass an examination at the end of his first year; a second at the end of his third ; and 3 other examinations, with a public thesis, at the end -of his fourth. There are cer- tain fixed periods of the year for entering names, etc. The numbers of the students attending the faculties of the University of Paris have never been exactly ascertained. The names entered in 1835 for the courses of law amounted to 3453; those for medicine were about the same in number; white from 1,200 to 1,500 persons annually attend the courses of the professors of sciences. COLLEGES AND SCHOOLS. College Royal de FnAw^ 1, Place Camera. L — At thr& * 72 INTRODUCTION. college 23 professors give public and gratuitous lectures on the following subjects: — astronomy; mathematics ; physical mathematics; experimental physics ; medicine; chemistry; natural history ; natural and national law ; history and mo- rality; Hebrew, Chaldee, and Syriac; Arabic; Persic; Turkr ish ; Chinese and Mantchou Tartar; Sanscrit; Greek litera- ture ; Greek and Latin philosophy ; Latin eloquence ; Latin poetry ; French literature ; political economy ; archaeology ; history of legislation ; besides 1 honorary professor. Musee Royal d'Histoire Naturelle, Jardin des Planles. — A college or body of 12 professors gives lectures on the following subjects; zoology, mammiferae and birds; zool. reptiles and fishes ; zool. molluscae and zoophytes ; zool. articulated animals ; anatomy ; comparative anatomy ; ge- neral chemistry ; mineralogy; geology; botany; rural bo- tany ; cultivation of plants. To these are added 1 honorary professor, 11 assistant naturalists, 4 assistant preparers, 1 li- brarian, and other officers, besides an establishment of 9 painters of objects of natural history, botany, etc. Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, 208, rue St. Martin. — Four professors lecture at this establishment, on chemistry applied to., the arts; geometry and mechanics ap- plied to the arts ; industrial economy ; physics and demon- stration of machines. There is also established here a school of drawing and descriptive geometry, where 3 professors lec- ture on the latter subject, and on figure-drawing and machine drawing. Ecole No rbi ale, 115, rue St. Jacques. — This institution is intended for the education of young men who wish to offer themselves to the University as candidates for professorships. To be admitted, they must be between the ages of 17 and 23, and must have taken the degrees of bachelier-es-lettres, or bachelier-es-sciences ; and must pass satisfactorily two severe examinations in philosophy, history, rhetoric, and ancient and modern literature, or in the various branches of mathematics and physics. The course of education in this school lasts for 3 years. There are 19 professors attached to it, and it con- tains at present 67 pupils. Besides these, there are in Paris five royal and two private colleges, between the pupils of which, and the royal college of Versailles, there is a general competition for prizes at the end of each scholastic year. To this effect eight or ten pupils of each class who have most distinguished themselves are se- PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. lectcd, and the adjudication of the prizes is conducted with great pomp attheSorbonne, in the presence of the whole corps universitaire. The terms for board are 1,000 fr. a-year, be- sides 60 fr. for college dues, and 45 fr. for university fees. Music, dancing, etc. are extra charges. The royal colleges are each governed by an inspecleur-general des etudes, a pro- viseur, to whom is joined a censeur des eludes, and a steward. The colleges which receive boarders have also a chaplain, and two assistant-chaplains. The pupils of the institutions and pensions are obliged to attend the lectures in the royal col- leges ; and such as have private tutors are also admitted. The course of education comprises the Greek, Latin, Italian, Eng- lish, and German languages ; philosophy, physics, belles-let- tres, mathematics, history, geography, writing, drawing, fencing, music, dancing, and singing. The masters of insti- tutions have the privilege of paying only 15 fr. per annum for college dues, in addition to the 45 fr. which they pay for uni- versity fees. When the classes are very numerous they are formed into two divisions. (1) The following is a list of the colleges : — College Royal de Louis le Grand, 123, rue St. Jacques; averaging 1054 pupils, of whom 512 are boarders. — College Royal de Henri IV , 2, rue de Glovis; 692 pupils, of whom 412 are boarders. — Col- lege Royal de St Louis, 94, rue de la Harpe; 901 pupils, of whom 295 are boarders. — College Royal de Charlemagne, 120, rue St. Antoine; 810 pupils. — College Royal de Bourbon, 5, rue St. Croix d'Antin; 864 pupils. — College Stanislas, 34, rue Notre Dame des Champs; 390 pupils, boarders. — College Rollin, or St. Barbe, 34, rue des Postes; 380 pupils, boarders. —To the above should be added the College des Ecossais, 25, rue des Fosses-St.-Victor ; the College des Irlandais , 3, rue des Irlandais; and the College des Anglais, 22, rue des Posies* All these colleges will be found described in another part of this work, according to their respective localities. SPECIAL SCHOOLS. In addition to the colleges before mentioned, there are a great number of schools for special purposes founded in Paris, mostly by the government ; of these we subjoin a list. (s) In the departments there are royal colleges in all great towns. In small towns the colleges are called colleges communaux ; these are private establishments aided by the commune, and sub- ject to the surveillance of the authorities. The royal colleges ef Paris deserve a visit; from the intelligent traveller. 74 iNTRODUl/ilolN, J&COLE Polytechnique, 71, rue Descartes.— A decree of the National Convention, dated 21 Ventose, an IK (March 11, 1794), created a Commission des Travaux Publics, and an Ecote Centrale, the latter of which, by a decree of the 15th Fructidor, an III. (September 1st, 1795), took the name of Ecole Polytechnique. The object of this most useful and justly-celebrated institution is to diffuse the knowledge of the mathematical, physical, and chemical sciences, and the graphic arts ; lo form pupils for the artillery, engineering, bridges and highways, mining, and other departments, into which persons cannot be admitted without having studied in this school. A great number of excellent of fleers, engineers, and scientific men have been educated in this establishment. Pu- pils are admitted from the age of 16 to 20. Every year can- didates for admission undergo a very severe examination in Paris, and in the departments. The terms are 1,000 fr. a- year, the pupils also providing themselves with a uniform, books, and other objects necessary for the pursuit of their stu- dies. The king has founded 24 scholarships, of which eight are in the nomination of the Minister of Commerce and Pub- lic Works, twelve of the Minister of War, and four of the Minister of the Marine. The affairs of the school are under the superintendence of a council of amelioration, a council of in- struction, and a council of administration. The period allowed for study is two years, to which in certain cases a third year is added. Strangers cannot visit this school without permission of the sous-gouverneur, who resides in the house.(l) Ecole Royale des Ponts et Chaussees, 10, rue Mil- ler in Berlin. — This school consists of 80 pupils taken from the Ecole Polytechnique, who receive instruction in all that re- lates to the art of projecting and constructing routes, canals, bridges, etc., with whatever concerns the different branches of civil engineering. Ecole d'Application du Corps des Ingenieurs, 61, rue de TUniversite. — The branches of study pursued here are surveying, topography, and landscape-drawing. Ecole d'Application du Corps d'Etat-Major, 136, rue de Grenelle. — This school is destined to form pupils for the staff-service. The term of study is two, or at most, three (i) The fullest information on this remarkable institution will be found in the Annuaire de V Ecole Poly technique, and in the Programme des Eludes — the latter not published, but printed at the Imprimerie Royale. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 75 years, when those pupils who have passed the examinations with honour are created suh-lieutenants of the staff, and are attached to an infantry or cavalry regiment. Ecole des Mines, 34, rue d Enter. — At the head of this school is a Conseil des Mines, which directs all affairs relating to mining - operations. Ecole des Ciiartes, at the King's Library, rue de Riche- lieu. — This institution was founded by Louis XVIII, for en- couraging the study of the ancient manuscripts contained in the different libraries, and the depots of the archives of the kingdom. To this end the Keepers of the records and the king's librarians receive an addition to their salary to teach young men (nominated by the Minister of the Interior) palae- ography, or to understand and decipher ancient charters. Each pupil receives 600 fr. a-year. Ecole des Langues Orientales Vivantes, at the King's Library, rue de Piichelieu : 8 professors are attached to this es- tablishment. Ecole de Pharmacie, 13, rue de 1'Arbalete. — 'There are 8 professors attached to this school, who lecture on the prepa- ration of drugs, chemistry, natural history, and botany P Apothecaries must be examined at this school before they can practise as such. Ecole des Beaux Arts, 16, rue des Petits Augustins. — This school is divided into 2 sections, painting and sculpture, and architecture. Lectures are given gratuitously on every subject connected with the arts by 20 professors. Ecole Gratuite de Dessin, 5, ruedei'Ecole de Mede- cine. — This institution is for the instruction of artisans in the principles of drawing and architecture; lectures are also given on practical geometry y arithmetic, mensuration, timber-cut- ting, etc. ficoLE Gbatuite de Dessin, for young women, 7, rue de Touraine. — This school for the instruction of young women Who are intended for the arts or manual professions, affords the means of studying the art of designing figures, landscapes, flowers, etc.(l) Ecole Gentrale des Arts et Manufactures, 7, rue Thorigny, founded in 1828, and established on the plan of the (i) Ecoles Gratuites de Dessin have been established by MM. Charles and Dupre, rue St. Avoyc and faubourg St. An toine, and in the court of the Petites Ecuries. They are opened in the evening, and are assiduously frequented hv laborious workmen, 76 IXfRODlJCTIOK. old & cole Poly technique, for the education of persons intended for civil engineers, directors of manufactories, builders, and teachers of the application of the sciences. Conservatoire ue Musique et be Declamation Lyrique, 11, faubourg Po'ssonniere. — This institution was founded for the instruction of young persons of both sexes in singing, instrumental music, etc. A numerous body of the first pro- fessors of both sexes give gratuitous instruction here to more than 350 pupils, and a very valuable musical library, open daily to the public from 10 to 3, is also attached to this esta- blishment. Conservatoire de Musique Classique, 69, rue de Vau- girard. Gimnase Normal Militaire et Civil, Place Dupleix —-This establishment is under the protection of the govern- ment, and subject to the authority of the Minister of War. Its object is to propagate gymnastic instruction, and particularly to form professors for extending that science in the different corps of the army. ficoLES d'Equitation. — The most celebrated is under the direction of MM. Franconi, of the Cirque-Olympique. There is a second, 19, rue Cadet, faubourg Montmarlre, which is open daily ; and a third in the rue de Fleurus, near the garden of the Luxembourg. Institutions and Pensions. — These establishments cor- respond to academies and boarding-schools in England, but are under the superintendence of the Royal Council of Public Instruction. The number of institutions and pensions for boys in Paris is 99 ; for girls 93: and in the arrondissements of St. Denis and Sceaux, for boys 43; for girls 16. For a list of the best, see Directory. Scoles No n males Elementaires. — These useful instiut- tions are designed to form school-masters and school-mis- tresses. They are two in number, one for men and the other for women ; the former is situated at No. 4, rue Carpentier, and the latter at the Eialle-aux-Draps. The lectures are deli- vered every two months, and occupy six weeks. The pupils are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, line-drawing, pen- manship, and church-singing. No one is admitted without producing a certificate signed by the mayor and rector of his parish, or an authorisation delivered by the committee of pub- lic instruction. Gratuitous lectures for workmen have been established by PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 77 the Association Poly technique in the 3d, 6th, and 8th arron- dissements. Ecoles Primaires. — The name of these schools sufficiently indicates their object. They form ihe fourth class under the direction of the Royal Council of Public Instruction, and are very numerous. Adult Schools. — There are altogether 26 schools of this description, 19 of which are supported by the town, and 7 by the administration of hospitals. They are attended by 1,462 men and 486 women. Ouvroirs. — These are useful establishments kept up by the administration of hospitals for furnishing work to young girls: there are 1 or more in each arrondissement ; their total number is 29, and the children frequenting them are 1,595. Of the Ecoles Primaires for children, there are 49 maintained by the town, and 71 by the administration of hospitals; con- taining 13,458 boys and 11,578 girls. The expense of all the Ecoles Primaires to the town is 234,188 fr. annually, and to the administration of hospitals 323,550 fr. The funds con- tributed by charitable associations to some of the above-men- tioned schools amount to 46,800 fr., giving the total cost of primary instruction per annum, 604,538 fr. Elementary singing is taught in all these schools ; and the monitors in them receive prizes according to merit. The salaries of the teachers are, for masters 1,800 fr., for mistresses 1,500 fr. per annum ; and all are either provided with a house, or receive an allowance of 300 fr. towards their rent. If they hold an evening class for adults they are paid in addition, the masters 300 fr., the mistresses 200 fr. This was the state of the schools for primary instruction at the time of the last report on the subject being made ; but every year is bringing new develope- menls to this most important branch of national education. Salles d'Asile, or Infant Schools, are rapidly forming all over Paris. There are at present 24 such establishments, being one or more to each arrondissement, and they contain between 4,000 and 5,000 children. The society for the pro- motion of these schools holds its meetings at 13, rue de la Chaussee d'Antin. (1) (i) The most ample and authentic accounts that can be ob- tained of the institutions for public instruction in France are to he found in the Almanack Royal, published every year, or in the Almanack de V University , also an annual publication, and in the Reports of the prefect of the. department. IS iNTRODUCTIOX. We may add to the foregoing account of the state of public instruction in the capital a notice of a grand and admirable institution, which, although not situated within Paris, is still immediately and closely connected with it. The Maison Royale ds St. Denis is devoted to the instruction of the daughters, sisters, and nieces of members of the legion of honour. It was originally established by Napoleon in the Chateau of Ecouen, under the superintendence of Mad. Cam- pan, and has been rendered illustrious by the peculiar favour of the Emperor, who often visited it, by the letters and the enlightened cares of its excellent governess, and by the num- bers of amiable and distinguished women who have received their education within its walls. Since 1815 it has been settled in the vast buildings of the Abbey of St. Denis, and according to the latest regulations is thus constituted : — The Queen is the special protectress and head of the institution. The grand chancellor of the legion presents the higher func- tionaries of the house to the Queen for her nomination, and appoints the other functionaries by his own authority. All pupils^are nominated to it by the King, on the presentation of the Grand Chancellor. The establishment consists of a lady superintendent, 6 ladies dignitaries, 12 ladies of the 1st class, 40 ladies of the 2d class, 20 novices, and an unlimited num- ber of candidates for the noviciate determined by the grand chancellor. 500 young ladies are here educated as pupils, of whom 400 receive their instruction gratuitously, and 100 pay a moderate sum. The superintendent, dignitaries, and governing members of the institution wear orders and deco- rations corresponding to those of the members of the legion of honour ; and retiring pensions are allowed them after a certain number of years of service. Female education of the highest and most refined description is given to the pupils in all its branches ; and the young ladies who are brought up here receive all the advantages that can result from a well-matured system of collegiate instruction, a ded by eminent professors of the fine arts and music. 3 almoners and a large medical staff are attached to the service of the establ.shment, and the care and attention paid to the comfort as well as health of the pupils are very great. At the same time the rules of the house are exceedingly strict, without being severe ; all the members of it wear the same uniform, black dresses, black bonnets and gloves, white aprons and collars ; all dine together, and are subjected to almost military PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 79 discipline. Frequent examinations take place, and prizes are bestowed according to the order of merit. From the nature of the institution itself it is desirable that the public should not penetrate into it, and accordingly permission to visit it is only granted by the grand chancellor on a written application, and is by no means a common favour. Two succursal houses, belonging to this institution, and con- ducted upon the same plan, are established, one in the rue Barbette, at Paris, the second at the Maison des Loges in the forest of St. Germain. They contain jointly 400 gratuitous pupils, and are superintended by the ladies of the Congrega- tion de la Mere de Dieu. This institution is the noblest establishment for female edu- cation in France, and perhaps in Europe. MUSEUMS, ETC.(l) Musee des Tableaux, at the Louvre; 1400 pictures of Italian, Flemish, Spanish, and French schools of old masters and deceased modern artists. Open to students and foreigners, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and to the public on Sundays, from 10 to 4. JSJusce des Antiques , at the Louvre; 1100 ancient statues, sculpture, etc. Open same days and hours. Musee Egyptien, at the Louvre. Collection of Egyptian antiquities, Greek vases and bronzes, Etruscan antiquities, etc. Tickets of admission granted by Count Forbin, Direcleur des Musees Royaux, 56, rue St. Lazare, on a written applica- tion one or two days before visiting the Museum. Musee de la Marine, at the Louvre. Collection of models of vessels, naval objects, etc. Tickets of admission granted as above. Musee des Sculptures de la Renaissance, at the Louvre. Tickets of admission granted as above. Musee Royal du Luxembourg. Pictures and sculptures by living modern artists. Open to students and foreigners every day except Saturday ; to the public, Sundays, Mondays, and holidays, from 10 to 4. Musee Monetaire, at the Hotel des Monnaies, 11, Quai Conti. Collection of medals, moneys, dies, etc. Open to foreigners, Mondays and Thursdays; to the public, Tuesdays and Frdays, from 12 to 4. Musee d'Hisioire Naturelle, Jardin des Plantes. Galleries of zoology, mineralogy, botany, and comparative anatomy, (i) Fuller descriptions of Museums, Libraries, etc. will be found in the arrondisseraents in which they occur. We here give only a list. INTRODUCTION. bolanical garden, and menagerie, The galleries of zoology and mineralogy are open to students and foreigners, Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, from 11 to 2; and to the public, Tuesdays and Fridays, from 3 to 6. The gallery of botany is open, with tickets, on Thursdays, from 11 to 2. The gallery of comparative anatomy is open, with tickets, Thursdays and Saturdays, from 11 to 2. The school of botany is open, with tickets, Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, from 3 to 5. The menagerie is open daily from 11 to <> in summer, and from 11 to 3 in winter. For tickets apply with passport at the office of administration. The garden is open daily. Musce d'Artillerie, 3, Place St. Thomas d'Aquin. Valuable collection of arms and armour. Open on Thursdays and Saturdays, from 1 to 3. Galerie des Plans des Forteresses de France, at the Hotel des Invalides; can be visited only with permission from the Minister of War. Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, 208, rue St. Martin. Models of machines, instruments, etc. Open on Sundays and Thursdays from 10 to 4 ; and on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, from 11 to 3. Cabinet de Miner alogie, 34, rue d'Enfer. Open to foreigners and students daily; to public on Mondays and Thursdays, from 11 to 3. Cabinet d'Anatomie, at the Ecole de Medecine. Open to students and bearers of permissions daily ; and to public on Thursdays, from 11 to 3. Musee Dupuytren, rue de FEcole de Medecine. Open same days and hours. Cabinet de Physique, at the College de France. Open Mon- days, Wednesdays, and Fridays, from 9 to 2. Cabinet de Medailles et Pierres Gravees, at the Bibliotheque du Roi. Open Tuesdays and Fridays, from 10 to 3. Jar din Botanique de V Ecole de Medecine, rue d'Enfer. Open daily from 11 till dusk . The following collections are open to amateurs, on their addressing a note to the proprietors, to demand permission. Galerie de M. de Sommariva, 4, rue Basse du Rempart. Thursdays, 1 to 4. Galerie de M* da Sommerard, Hotel de Cluny, rue des Mathurins St. Jacques. Wednesdays, 1 to 4. Galerie de M. le Marechal Duo de. Dalmatie (Marshal Soult), 57, rue de FUniversite. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. si Besides these there are the following private collections, which are more rarefy visited and to which it is extremely difficult to obtain admission : — Musee d'Antiquites of M. de Blacas ; Cabinet d'Antiquites of the Count de Pourtales; ditto of Baron Roger; ditto of M. Lamare Picquot ; Collection des Tableaux du Moyen Age, of the Chevalier d'Artaud; Collec- tion des Monumens Perses et Assyriens of the Marquis de Fortia dUrban ; Collection Bolanique of M. Delessert ; Herbary of M. A. de Jussieu ; Cryptogamic Herbary of M. Bory de St. Vincent; Collection of Shells and Birds of the Duke de Rivoli ; Collection of fluviatile and terrestrial Shells of M. de Ferussac ; Collection of Coleopteric Insects of General Dejean ; M ne- ralogical Cabinet of M. Giletde Laumont ; ditto, ditto of Messrs. Brochant de Villiers, Cordier, Brongniarl, and Lelievre ; Craniological Collection of M. Esquirol ; ditto of M. Gama Machado ; Collection of Portraits of M. Long, etc. etc. rUBLIC LIBRARIES. Bibliotheque du Roi, 58, rue de Richelieu. 900,000 books and printed pamphlets, 60,000 MSS. 100,000 medals, 1,600,000 engravings, 300,000 maps and plans. Open every day (except. Sundays and holidays) to students and strangers, from 10 lo 3 ; to the public, Tuesdays and Fridays, from 10 to 3. Vacation from Sept. 1 to Oct. 15. Bibliotheque de I Arsenal, rue de Sully. 190,000 vols, and 6,300 MSS. Open every day, except on festivals, from 10 to 3. Vacation from Sept. 15 to Nov. 3. Bibliotheque de Saint e- Genevieve, 2, rue Clovis. 200,000 vols., 30,000 MSS. Open every day, except festivals, from 10 to 3. Vacation from Aug. 1 to Sept. 15. Bibliotheque Mazarine, Institute, 23, Quai Conti. 100,000 vols., 4,500 MSS. Open every day, except festivals, from 10 to 4. Vacation from Aug 15 to Oct. 1. Bibliotheque de la Ville, rue du Tourniquet Saint Jean. 55,000 vols. Open every day, except festivals and Wednes- days, from 10 to 4. Vacation from Sept. 1 to Oct. 15. Bibliotheque de I'Ecole de Medecine, 14, Place de l'Ecole de Medecine. 30,000 vols. Open on Thursdays to the public, and every day, except festivals, to students, from 41 to 3. Vacation from Aug. 15 to Nov. 1. B bliotheque du Musee d'Histoire Naturelle, 35, rue de Seine Saint Victor. 13,000 vols. Open every day, except festivals and Wednesdays, from 11 to 3. Bibliotheque. do Vtcole des Mines, 34, rue d'Enfer. 6,000 82 INTRODUCTION. vols* Open Mondays and Thursdays from 11 to 3, and every day to students and strangers. Besides these public libraries, there are others supported by government, to which strangers may gain admittance by a written permission, viz : — Institut, 80,000 vols., 23, Quai Conti. Cabinet du Roi, on Bibliotheque du Conseil d'Etat, 80,000 vols., containing 2,000 vols, of ordonnances, etc. of all the Rings of France. Gallery of the Louvre, Quai du Louvre. Cour de Cassation, 36,000 vols., Palais de Justice. Chambre des Deputes, 44,000 vols. Chambre des Pairs, 11,000 vols. Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, 12,000 vols., 208, rue St. Martin. Universite, 30,000 vols., rue de la Sorbonne. Tnvalides, 25,000 vols., Hotel des Invalides. Ecole Poly technique, 20,000 vols., 1, rue Descartes. Tribunal de Premiere Instance, 4,000 vols., Palais de Justice. Ordre des Avocats, 7,000 vols., Palais de Justice. Ministere de la Justice, 8,000 vols., 13, Place Vendome. Ministere des Affaires-Etrangeres, 15,000 vols., rue Neuve des Capucines. Ministere de VInterieur, 14,000 vols., 103, rue de Grenelle, Saint Germain. Ministere des Finances, 3,500 vols., 48, rue de Rivoli. Depot des Cartes et Plans de la Guerre, 19,000 vols., 8,000 MSS., 61, rue de 1' Universite. Depot des Cartes de la Marine, 14,000 vols., 13, rue de T Universite. Depot Central de VArtillerie, 6,000 vols., 3, Place St. Tho- mas d'Aquin. Prefecture de Police, 4,000 vols., 7, rue de Jerusalem. Seminaire St. Sulpice, 20,000 vols., 17, rue du Pot de Fer, St. Sulpice. Faculte de Theologie, at the Sorbonne. Ecole de Droit, 8,000 vols., Place Sainte Genevieve. Ecole des Ponts et Chaussees, 5,000 vols., 10, rue Hillerin Berlin. Ecole de Musique et Declamation, 11, rue Faubourg Pois- sonniere. Cour des Comptes, 6,000 vols., Cour de la Sainte Chapelle. Observatoire, 4,500 vols., rue Gassini. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 83 Societe Royale et Centrale a" Agriculture, 2, rue du Tour- niquet Saint Jean. Bibliotheque du Commerce, Palais de la Bourse. Bibliotheque du Palais Royal, 25,000 vols. Imprimerie Royale, 89, rue Vieille du Temple. LITERARY AM) SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES. Societe Royale des Antiquaires de France, 12, rue Taranne. — This society which, when formed in 1805, was called Academie Celtique, and h~s published some very in- teresting memoirs, has for its object to investigate and throw light upon the language, history, and antiquities of the Cells, Greeks, and Romans, and of the middle ages, but more par- ticularly upon those of the Gauls and the French nation, down to the 16th century inclusive. It consists of 60 resident members, and a great number of correspondents in the de- partments and foreign countries, Societe Philomathique, 6, rue d'Anjou, faubourg St. Ger- main. — Most of the members, who are 50 in number, are also members of the Institute, and, next to that institution, it is the most scientific body in Paris. A periodical work, entitled Bulletin de la Societe Philomathique, is published by the society. Societe des Sciences Naturelles de France, 3, rue de l'Abbaye. Societe des Sciences Physique, Chimique, et Arts Agricoles, Hotel de Ville. Societe Entomologique de France, 6, rue d'Anjou Dauphine. Societe d'Histoire Naturelle, rue d'Anjou, faubourg St. Germain. — This society consists of 30 members, and is divided into three sections, mineralogy and geology, botany, and zoology. The members consist of the most distinguished naturalists in Paris who are under the age of 40. There are also honorary members who have attained that age, and cor- responding members, chosen from among the most distin- guished naturalists in France and the rest of Europe. Societe Geologique de France, 26, rue du Vieux Co- lorn bier. This society, which is authorized by government, consists of an unlimited number of members, and publishes a bulletin of its proceedings. Athenee Royal de Paris, 2, rue de Valois. — This insti- tution was founded in 1781, by the unfortunate aeronaut Pilatre du Rosier. Lectures are delivered here in the winter, 84 INTRODUCTION. on various branches of literature and science, which are at- tended by ladies as well as gentlemen. The annual subscrip- tion is 120 fr. Shareholders are perpetual members. Sub- scribers have access to a library. Societe Univeeselle de Civilisation, 47, rue de Vcr- neuii . Societe Francaise de Statistique TJniverselle, 12, Place Vendome. — This society was founded in 1829, by M. Cesar Moreau, to aid the progress of general statistics. Dif- ferent works connected with the objects of this association are printed at its expense, and prizes and medals are awarded for such productions as are entitled to distinction. Societe Francaise de Statistique Libre, 3, rue de F Ab- baye. Societe des Bibliophiles, 4, rue Castiglione. The object of this society, which consists of 24 resident members and 5 foreign associates, is the impression of very scarce or inedited works, in number equal to that of the members. Societe de Geographie, 23, rue de l'Universite. — This society was founded in 1821, to promote the knowledge of geographical science, by sending travellers to countries little known, proposing subjects for prizes, corresponding with learned societies, travellers, and geographers, and publishing works and maps. A bulletin is published by the society. The annual subscription is 36 fr. This society possesses a library, containing valuable geographical collections, and many curi- ous objects presented to it by travellers. Institut Historique. — This society holds an annual con- ference at the Hotel de Ville, wherein historical subjects are discussed; it publishes a bulletin. The bureau is at 14, rue des Saints Peres. Societe de l'Histoire de France, 12, rue Taranne. Works are annually published by this society for its members and the public. Societe Asiatique, 12, rue Taranne. Societe Grammaticale, 21, rue de Richelieu. — This society occupies itself with every thing connected with grammatical science, and particularly with the discussion and solution of the difficulties that present themselves in the French lan- guage. Societe Philotechnique, 16, rue des Petiis Augustins. — This society, composed of 60 artists and scientific ajjd literary PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 85 men, besides honorary members, free members, and corre- spondents, holds public half-yearly meetings in the spring and the autumn, at the Hotel de Ville, at which papers are read, musical compositions performed, and sometimes the artisls of the society exhibit their pictures, designs, and sculpture. Societe d'Encouragement pour la Gravure, 17, Quai Malaquais. Atheivee des Arts. — This establishment was founded in 1792, for the encouragement and advancement of the arts and sciences. Its members consist of artisls, scientific men, and even artisans ; ladies are also admitted. At the annual public meetings, prizes arc adjudged for useful inventions and im- provements in the arts and sciences. Societe des Amis des Arts. — This society was founded before the Revolution, but was subsequently dissolved, and re-established in 1817. Its object is to encourage the arts of sculpture, painting, and engraving; and an unlimited num- ber of subscribers are admitted, who, at the end of each year, can withdraw or continue members of the society. Every share is fixed at 50 fr., and each subscriber can lake as many shares as he pleases. Three-fourths of the annual receipts are devoted to the purchase of pictures, statues, vases, bas-reliefs, drawings, bronzes, etc., by living artists of the French school: the other fourth is appropriated to engraving. The objects of art thus purchased during the year are exhibited at the Louvre, and distributed among the shareholders by means of a lotlery, at the rate of one prize for eight shares. Such shareholders as do not gain prizes are entitled to a proof engraving. Subscrip- tions received at M. Coulon's, a la Calcographie, au Louvre. Societe pour l'Instruction Elementaire, 12, rue Taranne. Societe des Methodes d'Enseignemeat, 12, rue Taranne. Societe Academique de l'Ecriture, 68, rue St. Louis en llle. Athenee de Medecine de Paris. — The meetings are held at the Hotel de Ville. Cercle Medical de Paris. — This society devotes its atten- tion to epidemic diseases and the medical conslitulion, and keeps up an active correspondence with physicians and scien- tific men in foreign countries as well as France. The king's chief physician is perpetual president. The meetings of the Cercle are held at the Hotel dc Ville. 86 INTRODUCTION. Societe de Medecine de Paris. — The prefect of the de- partment is president of this society, whose labours are regu- larly published in the Journal General de Medecine. Societe be Medecine Pratique. — The principal object of this association is the study and cure of whatever diseases are most prevalent. Pupils sent by school-masters and school- mistresses are vaccinated gratuitously, and vaccinal matter is sent to surgeons. The king's chief physician is president of this society, whose meetings are held at the Hotel de Ville. Societe Medico-Pratique. — Its meetings are held at the H6tel~de- Ville. Societe be Chimie Medicale de Paris. — The meetings of this society are held at 4, Place de TEcole de Medecine. Societe Phrenologique, 22, rue Jacob. Societe Mebico-Phtlantropique. — This benevolent asso- ciation holds its meetings at the Hotel de Ville, on the 2d and 4th Mondays of the month. Gratuitous prescriptions are given on Thursdays from 2 to 5 o'clock, and money is also afforded to such patients as are destitute of the means of pro- curing medicine. Societe de Pharmacie. — The meetings of this association are held at the Ecole de Pharmacie, 13, rue de V Arbalete. Societe Medicale d'Emulation.— This society holds its meetings at the School of Medicine, and publishes Memoires. Societe d'Economie Domestique et Inbustrielle, 12, rue Taranne. — The object of this society is to spread such practical knowledge as is useful in household affairs in the town as well as in the country ; and in the different kinds of industry in common and daily use. It makes researches and experiments, collects facts and processes, and gives them pub- licity by means of its Journal des Connaissances Usuelles; and distributes medals and prizes for useful discoveries. Societe Academique des Enfans d'Apollon. — This so- ciety, founded in 1749, meets every month, and holds an annual meeting, devoted to music and poetry. Among the members are several of the most celebrated musicians in Europe, as well as distinguished painters, sculptors, architects, and men of letters. Societe Lyrique des Soupers de Momus. — This associa- tion of authors meets every month, at the restaurant of Fevre, Place du Chatelet. It consists of 20 members, each of whom must present at the monthly supper a song or piece of poetry. A volume of these songs is printed annually. In this society PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 87 are embodied the two associations called les Diners du Vau- deville and le Caveau Moderne. Societe pour l' Encouragement de l'Industrie Na- tionals, 42, rue du Bac. — The object of this society is to second the efforts of Government for the amelioration of every branch of industry, by giving prizes, by rewarding inventions, and by the publication of a bulletin upon discoveries re- lating to industry. Ecole Speciale du Commerce Francais, 59, Boulevard St. Antoine. Societe Royale et Centrale d' Agriculture. — This society, which holds its meetings at the Hotel de Ville, was established by an order in council in 1761. Its object is the amelioration of the different branches of rural and domestic economy in France. It is the centre of the correspondence of all the agricultural societies in the kingdom, and consists of 40 ordinary, 24 free, and 12 foreign associates. Societe d'Agronomie Pratique, 1, rue de Lille. —The object of this society is to further the progress of the culti- vation of plants, by propagating good methods, encouraging discoveries, naturalising exotic plants, spreading knowledge by means of a monthly journal and gratuitous lectures, and affording instruction to pupils. Societe d Horticulture, 12, rue Taranne, for the im- provement of the culture of pleasure and kitchen-gardens, the plants and fruits destined for food, the vegetables suscep- tible of being employed in the arts, fruit-trees, etc. It grants prizes, distributes medals, and excites emulation by the exhi- bition of plants, shrubs, flowers, etc., and publishes a monthly journal on gardening, under the title of Annates de la Societe d' Horticulture. Societe d' Amelioration des Laines, 126, rue de Grenelle St. Germain. — This useful institution adjudges annually two prizes and two medals to French agriculturists who devote their attention to the improvement of sheep, etc. Etablissement de Filature, Cul de sac des Hospitalieres, rue de la Chaussee, near the Place Royale. — This establish- ment is destined to give work to poor women, who receive a quantity of hemp for spinning, for which they are paid a cer- tain sum. The number of women employed by this insti- tution is about 3,000. There are besides 130 weavers, who have no other means of existence than what are afforded them here, and for whom frames are procured, if they are 88 INTRODUCTION. unable to buy them. About 30 children belonging to these paupers are gratuitously instructed in a neighbouring school. Academie de l'Industrie Francaise, 24, Place Venddme. for the promotion of agricultural, manufacturing, and com- mercial knowledge. Societe de s Progres Agricoles, 10, rue Taranne. Cercle Agkicole, 2, rue de Beaune. Societe Generate des Naufrages, 16, Place Vendome, — This useful society awards prizes for successful attempts to rescue crews from shipwreck, etc. CHURCHES. To each of the 12 arrondissements, into which Paris is divided, there is one parochial church, and a certain number of others, called Eglises Succursales, or District Churches, vary- ing according to the size of the arrondissement or parish. The following is a list of all the churches in Paris, which are still appropriated to religious purposes. 1st Arrondissement: Parish Church, L'Assomption, 369, rue St. Honore. District Churches: 1. St. Louis, 5, rue Sle. Croix: 2. St. Philippe, 8, faubourg du Roule; 3. St. Pierre de Chaillot, 50, rue de Chaillot; 4. ChapeUe de Beaujon, 59, faubourg du Roule ; 5. La Madeleine, Boulevard de la Made- leine. — 2d Arrondissement : Parish Church, St. Roch, 296, rue St. Honore. District Church, Notre Dame de Lorette, rue Olivier. — 3d Arrondissement : Parish Church, St. Eustache, rue Trainee. District Churches : 1. Les Petits Peres, Place des Petits Peres; 2. Notre Dame de Bonne Nouvelle, 23, rue de la Lune. — 4th Arrondissement : Parish Church, St. Germain I Auxerrois (1). — 5lh Arrondissement: Parish Church, St. Laurent, Place de la Fidelile. District Church, St. Vincent de Paule, 6, rue Monlholon. — 6th Arrondisse- ment: Parish Church, St. Nicolas des Champs, 200, rue St. Martin. District Churches : 1. St. Leu et St. Gilles, 182, rue St. Denis; 2. Ste. Elisabeth, 107, rue du Temple.— 7th Ar- rondissement : Parish Church, St. Merri, 2, rue St. Martin. District Churches : 1. Notre Dame des Blancs Manteauoc, 14, rue des Blancs Manteaux ; 2. St. Francois d 1 Assise, 13, rue du Perche ; 3. St. Denis, 50, rue St. Louis au Marais. — 8th Ar- rondissement : Parish Church, Ste. Marguerite, 28, rue St. Bernard, faubourg St. Antoine. District Churches: 1. St. Antoine, 35, rue de Charenton ; 2. St. Ambroise, rue St. Ara- (i) This church has been shut up since j83i, when it was sacked by the people* CH HECHES. 89 broise.— 9th Arrondissement ; Parish Church, LJEglise Ca- thedrals de Notre Dame, District Churches: 1. St. Louis, He St. Louis ; 2. St. Gervais, rue de Monceau; 3. St. Paul et St. Louis, 118, rue St. Antoine. — 10th Arrondissement : Parish Church, St. Thomas d'Aquin, Place St. Thomas d'Aquin. District Churches: 1. Abbaye aux Bois, 1G, rue de Sevres; 2. St. Frangois Xavier, J 20, rue du Bac ; 3. St. Valere, 142, rue de Grenelie; 4. St. Pierre du Gros Caillou, 60, rue St. Dominique. — 11th Arrondissement : Parish Church, St. Sulpice, Place St. Sulpice. District Churches: 1. St. Ger- main des Pres, Place St. Germain des Pres ; 2. St. Severin, 3, rue St. Severin. — 12ih Arrondissement : Parish Church, St. Etienne du Mont, rue de la Montagne Ste. Genevieve. District Churches : 1. St. Nicolas du Chardonnet, 104, rue St. Yictor; 2. St. Jacques du Haut Pas, 252, rue St. Jacques; 3. St. Medard, 161, rue Mouffetard. The following are chapels not attached to the service of any particular district: — Chapelle Expiatoire, rue d'Anjou St. Honore; Eglise des Carmes, 70, rue de Vaugirard ; Eglise du Vol de Grace, rue St. Jacques ; Eglise de la Sorbonne, Place de la Sorbonne; Eglise des Invalides. — All the convents, seminaries, and hospitals have each a chapel attached to them. — To these may be added the Pantheon, formerly the Church of Ste. Genevieve; which, though not at present used for religious purposes, is still considered as a sacred building. The following are churches or chapels belonging to religious sects, not Catholics :—L" Oratoire, rue St. Honore (Confession of Geneva) ; Les Carmes, rue des Billettes (Lutherans) ; La Visitation, rue St. Antoine (Confession of Augsburg); Episco- pal Church, rue d'Aguesseau (Church of England) ; Marbceuf Chapel, rue de Chaillot, Champs Elysees (Evangelical) ; Eng- lish Chapels, 7, rue Neuve des Capucines ; 75, rue de Vau- girard; 9, rue Taitbout; and 6, rue d'Anjou; American Service, 23, rue de Varennes; Synagogue, 14, rue Neuve St. Laurent (Jews), and 7, rue Notre Dame de Nazareth ; Eglise Francaise, Boulevard St. Denis (Congregation of Abbe Cha- lel); Greek Chapel, Hotel of the Russian Embassy, 4, rue des Champs Elysees. The clergy of Paris is composed of 1 archbishop, 2 vicars- general appointed by the King, and 9 others ; 3 secretaries ; 1 penitentiar ; 3 metropolitan officials ; 4 diocesan officials ; 16 canons of Notre Dame, the first of whom is archdeacon; 34 honorary canons ; 2 masters of the choristers ; 5 superin- 8. 90 INTRODUCTION. tendants of the edifice of Notre Dame ; 3 superiors of semina- ries. To these should be added the curates and officiating ministers of the churches of Paris, of whom there is one to each church. The number of their vicars is not accurately known, and there is also an indefinite number of almoners of hospitals, convents, etc. (i) Semi n aire be s Missions £trangeres, 120, rue de Bac.~- Missionaries are educated here in the Asiatic languages, and in whatever may fit them for the missions in the east. Seminaire du St. Esprit, 24, rue des Posies.-— The pupils of this seminary, destined for missions to the colonies, consist of young Frenchmen or Creoles who have devoted themselves to the ecclesiastical slate. Petit Seminaire. — Forms two divisions. One established at the ancient seminary of St. Nicolas du Chardonnet, 102, rue St. Victor, and the other at Conflans-Charenlon. The two houses contain 140 pupils. Seminaire de St. Sulpice. Place St. Sulpice. — It has 8 professors and 145 students. — A succursal house is established at Issy, with 2 professors and 50 students. Institut des Freres des Ecoles Chretiennes, l(u, rue du Faubourg St. Martin.— The teachers of the Ecoles Chre- tiennes are educated here. Caisse Diocesaine. — This fund is destined to afford pen- sions to priests whose age or infirmities prevent them continu- ing to exercise their functions, and to grant allowances to young men destilule of fortune who devote themselves tc the ecclesiastical state, to enable them to prosecute their studies. Societe Catholique des EONS Livres, 5, rue St. Thomas d'Enfer. (i) The total number of die catholic clergy in France is about 4.^98, including 4 cardinals, 14 archbishops," and 66 bishops. To these may be added 10,904 theological students, intended lor the priesthood. The number of convents for nuns of different orders js about 3,ooo, and the number of nuns about 24,000 5 there are also in France a few establishments of monks of La Trappe, and one of Carthusians, or Chartreux. Of the ministers o* other re- ligions there are — Lutherans 388, reformists of the confession of Augsburg 345, Jews 8, and of other denominations 86. The total expense to the state of all religions is 34,^89,000 francs. At the time of the Revolution the total number of ecclesiastical personages was 1 14,000, including 19,000 regular clergy, and 3s 000 nuns of all orders Their annual revenues amounted to 72 millions of francs, and the tithe to 70 millions, giving a total of ifo millions. CONVENTS. 91 Societe des Traitjes Religieux, 93, rue du Faubourg St. Denis. Societe de la Morale Chretienne, 12, rue Taranne. — This society was formed in 1821. Its labours consist in col- lecting information upon the establishments,, of every kind, "which have for their object the moral and physical ameliora- tion of mankind. It publishes a journal to show the salutary influence of Christianity on the institutions, civilisation, and prosperity of nations. Societe Bibliqoe Protestante de Paris, 65, rue Mont- orgueil. — The object of this association is to spread the Holy Scriptures, without notes or commentary, in the versions received and used in Protestant churches. Convents. — The following is a list of convents now ex- isting in Paris. — The Dames Benedictines de V Adoration per- petuelle du St. Sacrament, 12, rue Ste. Genevieve. A second convent of the same order was established at the Temple, 89, rue du Temple, by the late Princess Louise de Conde. — The Dames Anglaises, 23, rue des Fosses St. Victor, the only English convent in Paris. — The Dames Carmelites, 67, rue d'Enfer; 2, rue de Cassini, and 70, rue de Vaugirard. — The Dames de la Visitation, 20, rue des Postes ; in the rue de Vaugirard ; and 6, rue Neuve St. Elienne. — The Dames de la Congregation de V Adoration perpeluelle du Sacre Cour de Jesus, Abbaye aux Bois, rue de Sevres. — Two Congregations de Notre Dame, rue de Sevres, and 11, rue des Bernardins. — The Dames du Calvaire, rue du Petit Vaugirard. — The Dames Dominicaines de la Croix, 37, rue de Charonne.— The Congre- gation de la Mere de Dieu, rue Picpus, and 2, and 4, rue Bar- bette. The latter is a dependence of the Maison Royale of St. Denis, for educating the daughters of members of the Legion of Honour.— The Dames de la Miser icorde, 25, rue Neuve Ste. Genevieve. — The Chanoinesses de St. Auguslin, or Congrega- tion da Sacre Cceur, rue Picpus. — The Dames du Sacre Ccewr, rue de Varennes. — The Dames de Vlmmaculee Conception, called Recollettes , rue d'Anjou, St. Honore. — The Dairies Ursulines, 100, rue de Vaugirard. — The Dames Bernardines (of the ancient convent of Port Royal), 25, rue de TArbalete. — The Dames Franciscaines de Ste. Elizabeth, 40, rue St. Louis. — The Filles de la Croix, 24, Place Royale. — The Con- gregation des Seeurs de St. Vincent de Paule, i32, rue du Bae, founded by St. Vincent de Paule in 1633, now consists of about 500 nuns, who devote themselves to nursing the sick 92 INTRODUCTION. at the hospitals, etc—The Barnes de St. Maur, rue St. Maur. — The Dames de St. Thomas de Villeneuve, in the Cul-de-sac des Vignes, rue des Postes; 27, rue de Sevres; and in the rue de Sevres, near the Boulevard, which serves as an hospital for sick children. — The Sceurs de Notre Dame de Bon Se~ cours, 7, rue Cassette. — The Dames da Refuge, or de St. Michel, 193, rue St. Jacques : under their direction are the Filles de la Madeleine or Rcpenties. — The Dames de la Croix St. Andre, 2, rue de Sevres. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. Hospitals. — Establishments for affording relief to the sick, to foundlings, to the aged, infirm, and unfortunate, existed in Paris at a very early period ; but the object of their founders was greatly perverted, and their revenues directed to other purposes. From the time of Philip Augustus to the period of the Revolution, nothing could exceed the wretchedness which prevailed in these abodes of human suffering. Their mal- administration, joined to the want of air and beds, caused a dreadful mortality among the patients and inmates ; and every successive inquiry brought to light the most appalling facts, without giving birth to any efficient measures for their ame- lioration. In the year 4786 a controversy having interested the public mind in favour of a change, Louis XVI. commanded the Academy of Sciences to make inquiry into the state of the Hotel Dieu. Their report showed the state of that hospital to be most deplorable. The construction of four hospitals was therefore ordained by the king. All classes seemed eager to contribute towards carrying the project into execution, and considerable sums were raised : but the profligacy of the minister Calonne, the low state of theiinances, and the events which preceded the Revolution, caused several millions of the hospital fund to be dissipated. The Revolution breaking out shortly afterwards, the hospitals of Paris remained without improvement. The project, however, of demolishing the Hotel Dieu, and establishing four hospitals, was not forgotten. By a decree of the Convention, July 16th, 1793, the admini- stration of the department was commanded to transfer part of the patients of the hospitals of Paris into convents or other structures which had become national property. By another decree, of August 24th, 1794, the superintendence of the hos- pitals was vested in sixteen members of the National Conven- tion. By a subsequent decree, two new hospitals were es- tablished, and the number of beds in those already existing CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 93 considerably augmented. At various successive periods the state of the hopitaux and hospices (1) of Paris has been ame- liorated, particularly since they have been placed under the direction of a general administration. This administration, which was created in February 1801, consists of a general council and an administrative committee. All the civil hos- pitals, as well as the various institutions dependent on them, are under their superintendence. The military hospitals are under the government of the etat-major of the garrison of Paris. The general council decides all general administrative measures, and superintends the property, accounts, and other affairs, of the hopitaux: and hospices. The administrative committee regulates the different branches of management. The Prefect of the Seine and the Prefect of Police are mem- bers of the general council, which comprises some of the most notable functionaries of the state, and assembles weekly at the Hotel de Ville. There is also a consulting committee of advocates attached to the administration, besides a general secretary, a receiver general, legal agents, architects, etc. The bureaux of the adminislrative committee and of the secre tary are at 2, rue Neuve Notre Dame. The Bureau Central cl' Admission, at the corner of the Parvis Notre Dame, is a board of medical men established for the inspection of persons desiring to be admitted into the hos- pitals, when the case is not one of urgency. The particular hospital is indicated by this board to the patient, according to the nature of the complaint; and no one can be admilted without the authorization of its members. Certain medical assistance is also given by the Bureau to indigent persons, and children are vaccinated by it gratuitously. According to the report published by the Prefect of the Department in 1834, the Hospitals, 13 in number, contain 5,337 beds, and the Hospices, 11 in number, 11,740 beds; giving a total of 17,077 beds. The number of patients in the hospitals on 1st Jan. 1833, was 4,170 ; in the hospices, 9,567 ; and the numbers admitted during the year were in the former 61,765, in the latter 3,190 ; total in hospitals and hospices for 1833, 78,692. On 1st Jan. of the same year there were sup- ported by the hospices 17,433 foundlings and orphans; to (i) A distinction is made between hdpital and hospice; the former being generally applied to establishments Tor the relief of the sick or wounded, and the latter to those in which are received the aged and infirm, or foundlings. 94 INTRODUCTION. these were added during the year 5,693 foundlings. 1,760 children were placed out gratuitously to nurse; and 68,986 persons were succoured at home by the Bureaux de Bien- faisance; thus giving a general total of persons supported and assisted by public charily during that year of 172,564. The ratio of the number of indigent persons in Paris to that of the whole population is as 1 to 11 ; and the number of in- digent families relieved was 31,723. Of these families there were 16,167 men, 28,021 women, 12,096 boys, 12,702 girls. 13,173 were married, 12,875 were widowers and widows, 4,350 were unmarried, and 1,325 were abandoned women. 15,421 were under 60 years of age; 4,084 between 60 and 64 ; 8,715 between 65 and 74; 2,164 between 75 and 79; 851 between 80 and 89; and 31 between 90 and 99. 4,144 were lodged gratuitously ; 16 paid less than 400 fr. rent ; 14,000 paid between 50 and 100 fr. rent. Of the men 1,443 were without any trade or profession, and among the women 4,050 were in the same case. Special assistance was granted to 2,089 septuagenarians, to 1,017 octogenarians, to 494 blind, and to 102 incapable of aiding themselves. According to the same account the financial condition of the Hospitals and Charitable Institutions dependent on them, in 1833, w as as follows : — Expenditure — Hospitals, 2,609,249 fr. ; Hospices, 3,050,159 Ir. ; Enfans Trouves (foundlings), 1,731,239 fr. ; private establishments, 182,539 fr.; assistance given to persons at home, 2,038,177 fr. ; buildings, etc. 167,066 fr.; total expenditure, 10,186,388 fr. Receipts- Revenues, rents, etc. 1,136,271 fr. ; funded property, income, 1,201,472 fr. ; legacies and donations, 100,000 fr.; profits of Mont de Piete, 281,970 fr. ; contributions of theatres, etc., 600,000 fr. ;(1) other receipts, 1,228,675 fr. ; contributions paid by the town of Paris, 5,638,000 fr. ; total receipts, 10,186,388 fr. The mean time of a patient's remaining in the hospitals was 23 days; and the average cost of each patient was 38 fr. The number of deaths in the hospitals was 5,886, giving a mean mortality of 1 in 11. In the hospices the cost of each patient per diem was 18 sous; the number of deaths 1,518, and the mean mortality 1 in 6. The number of the (i) All the public places of amusement, except the French Opera, pay a tax of 10 per cent on their receipts towards the support of the hospitals. A heavy tax lor their support is also levied on every piece of ground purchased for the purpose of burial in the cemeteries. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 95 enfans trouves being 23,126, the cost of supporting- each was 74 fr. The Bureaux de Bienfaisance receive annually from the hospices and from collections 2,288,177 fr. : hence the sum accorded to each of the 31,723 families was 72 fr., and, if the number of children under 12 years of age be taken into account, each person relieved received 33 fr. The following is a list of the hospitals and hospices of the city of Paris : — Hotel-Dieu, Parvis Notre Dame. — Hopital de la Pitie, 1, rue Copeau. — Hopital de la Charitc, 45, roe Jacob. — Hopital St. Antoine, 206, rue du Faubourg St. Antoine. — Hopital Cochin, 45, rue du Faubourg St. Jacques. — Hopital de Madame Necker, 5, rue de Sevres. — Hopital Beaujon, 54, rue du Faubourg du Roule. — Hopital des Enfans Malades, 3, rue de Sevres. — Hopital St. Louis, 2, rue St. Louis, Faubourg du Temple. — Hopital des Veneriens, 39, rue des Capucins, Faubourg St. Jacques. — Hopital des Vcnericnnes, 97, rue de l'Oursine. — Maison Royale de Sante, 112, rue du Faubourg St. Denis. — Maison a" Accouchement, 3, rue de la Bourbe. — Hopital des Cliniques, Place de l'Ecole de Medecine. — Hospice de la Vieillesse, Femmes, or La Salpetriere, Boulevard de 1' Hopital. — Hospice de la Vieillesse, Hommes, or Bicetrc.-— Infirmerie de Marie Therese, 86, rue d'Enfer. — Maison d'Enghien, 8, rue de Picpus. — Hopital Leprince, 185, rue St. Dominique au Gros Caillou. — Hopital Militaire, rue Blanche. — Hopital Militaire, rue St. Dominique au Gros Caillou.-— Hopital Militaire du Vol de Grace, 277, rue du Faubourg St. Jacques. — Hopital Militaire de Picpus, 19, rue de Picpus. (1) — Maison Hoy ale de Charenlon, Hospices and Benevolent Institutions. — Hospice des Incurables, Femmes, 54, rue de Sevres. — Hospice des In- curables, Hommes, 34, rue des Recollets. — Hospice des Menages, 28, rue de la Chaise. — Hospice St. Michel, at St. Mande. — Asile Royale de la Providence, 50, rue de la Chaussee des Martyrs. — Institution de Sainte Perine, Grande Rue de Chaillot. — Maison de Retraite, or Hospice de Larochefoucauld, Route d' Orleans, near the Barriere d'Enfer. — Hospice des En- fans Trouves, 74, rue d'Enfer. — Hospice des Orp helms , 124, rue du Faubourg St. Antoine. — Hopital Royal des Quinze Vingts, 38, rue de Charenton. — Institution Royale des Sourds et Muets, 254, rue du Faubourg St. Jacques. — Institution Royale des Jeunes Aveugles, 68, rue St. Victor. — Maison de (;) The military hospitals are not under the direction of the general administration ; but depend on the Minister or War. 9t> INTRODUCTION. Refuge pour les Jeunes Prisonniers , 11, rue des Gres St. Jacques. — Maison de Refuge du Ron Pasteur, 82, rue d'Enfer St. Michel.— Hospice Devillas, 17, rue des Regards.— Hospice Brezin, at Garches, near St. Cloud. Maisons de Sante. — These establishments, of which there are a great many in and about Paris, receive patients, who pay various prices for the accommodations they receive there, and may be called hospitals for the middling classes. They are conducted generally by a medical man of reputation, who boards, lodges, and attends the patients: they have gene- rally gardens attached, and some, particularly those in the en- virons, are agreeable places of residence for sick people. Rooms containing a single, or several beds may be had, ac- cording to the means of the patients; and persons condemned for political offences, whose health would be endangered by the confinement of a prison, are sometimes allowed to reside on their parole, and on the responsibility of the director of the establishment, in a Maison de Sante. The Amphitheatre of Anatomy for the hospitals of Paris is placed on the site of the ancient burial-ground of Clamart, rue des Fosses St. Marcel, and is admirably suited to the purposes for which it is intended. Every facility is given to students. Another set of dissecting rooms is placed behind the Musee Dupuytren, near the Eeole de Medecine. Boulatsgerie Generale, 2, rue Scipion. This is the gene- ral bakehouse for all the hospitals. Cave Generale, 2, rue Notre Dame. — Here all the wines, spirits, etc. used in the hospitals, are kept. Phaumacie Centrale, 5, Quai de la Tournelle. A general dispensary, first established intheHopilal des Enfans Trouves, Parvis Notre Dame, was transferred, in i 812, to the convent of the Dames Miramionnes, where it slill exists. Etablissement en Faveur des Blesses Indigens, 9, rue du Petit Muse. Societe Maternelle, 5, rue du Coq Heron. — Its objects are to pay the lying-in expenses of poor women, and to afford a monthly allowance for a year to bring up the child. The sum granted to each is 100 fr. lis affairs are managed by 48 ladies. There are physicians, surgeons, apothecaries, and midwives attached to this society. Government pays 100,000 francs a-year to this institution, of which the Queen is pro- tectress. Maison Cemrale de Nourrices, 18, rue Ste, Appoline. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. — The object of this useful establishment is to afford to the inhabitants of Paris and its environs the means of obtaining wet-nurses in whom they may confide, and to secure to the nurses the payment of their wages. Societe Philanthropique, 12, rue du Grand Chantier. — This assoc ation was founded in 1780, under the special protection of Louis XVI., for affording relief to suffering hu- manity. The funds are employed in distributing food to the indigent by means of soup-houses ; in gratuitous advice, and medicine for the sick ; and in assisting various other charita- ble societies and establishments. Secours a Domicile. — In each of the 12 arrondissements of Paris, there is a bureau to afford relief to aged and infirm persons, and poor women having large families, and gratui- tous advice and medicine to the sick, at their own houses. An infirmary is attached to each bureau. The relief granted con- sists of bread, meat, firing, and clothing; besides which a monthly allowance of 3 fr. is afforded to such as are 75 years of age, and of 6 fr. to such as are 80. They are under the direction of the prefect of the department and the General Council of Hospitals. Each bureau consists, 1st, of the mayor (who is president ex-offido), the deputy-majors, the rector of the parish, the curates of the chapels of ease, and the prolcst- ant minister, where there is a church of that persuasion ; 2d, of 12 managers, chosen by the Minister of the Interior; 3d, of commissaries for the poor, and of Dames de C harite, whose number is determined by the bureau. An accountable agent is attached to each. In 1833 the number of persons receiving relief was 68,986 : while in 1835 it was reduced to 62,539. Association pour la Propagation de la Vaccine, 4, rue du Pont de Lodi, founded under the ausp ces of govern- ment by Dr. James in 1831. — To this it may be added, that a public vaccination takes place at the mairie of each arron- dissement once a-week. Societe Generale de Prevoyance, 73, rue de Lille. — This society was formed in!830, for the relief tf sick persons, who are entitled to the benefits of it on subscribing 10 or 25 francs. Societe de la Providence. — The office of this association is at No. 314, rue St. Honore. British Charitable Fund. — This institution was formed in 1816, under the patronage of the British ambassador, for the relief of distressed British subjects in France. The funds, 9 98 INTRODUCTION. which are raised by voluntary subscription, are managed by a committee of ten members, who meet on Tuesdays and Satur- days, at 16, rue de la Madeleine. One' great object of this so- ciety is to afford relief to necessitous British subjects, and assist them in returning home. To the honour of the British name it may be said, that but few persons of distinction or fortune visit Paris without contributing, by subscriptions or donations, to the Charitable Fund. In 1835, the receipts amounted to 16,100 fr. and the disbursements to 14,900 fr. Subscriptions and donations are received by Messrs. Roths- child and Co. ; Callagan ; and Galignani and Co. SOCIETE PrOTFSTANTE DE PrEVOYANCE ET DE $ECOURS Mutuels. — This association, composed exclusively of Protes- tantSp was formed in 1825, to afford medical advice, medicine, and pecuniary relief to sick members, who pay a subscription of 24 fr. a-year. The society proposes to grant pensions and found an hospital at a future period. Office, 46, rue de l'Arbre Sec. Societe Israelite des Amis du Travail. — The object of this society is to put out and apprentice young persons of both sexes of the Jewish persuasion, who continue four years under its protection. The funds necessary are raised by monthly con- tributions of 30 sous. Office, 14, rue Jean Jacques Rousseau Societe Helvetique de Bienfaisance. — This society, established in 1822, is composed of Swiss of all the Cantons, and without distinction of religion. Its objects are to establish a bond of union, and to afford relief to such of their country- men as are in distress. Office at the Oraloire, rue St. Honore. Societe des Enfans en Faveur des Vieillards.— This benevolent society, founded in 1803, is well calculated to train children to the exercise of charity. Their own con- tributions, augmented by donations of their parents, form a fund for purchasing articles of clothing and blankets for in- digent old men. The contributions are received at 5, rue Coq Heron. Association des Jeunes Economes.— This society, com- posed of youngladies, is formed for the purpose of educating, clothing, and putting out apprentice, such girls, above eight years of age, as belong to large families. Subscriptions are received, 3, Quai Conti. Institution pour les Jeunes Filles Delaissefs, 12, rue Garanciere. — The council-general of hospitals and the Minis- ter of the Interior make an annual grant of 3,000fr. to this so- CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. ciety, whose object is to protect deserted young girls, and such as have lost their parents. After receiving a moral education, they are placed out as apprentices. Besides the above benevolent societies, there are in Paris several associations de travail pour les pauvres (work socie- ties), at the head of which are ladies of high rank, that meet on one or more evenings of the week, to make different articles, which are then collected together, and, at a public exhibition of them, sold for the benefit of the poor. Lotteries are also formed during the course of the winter in the different arron- dissements, to which artists and benevolent persons are in- vited to contribute their works etc. Considerable sums are thus raised by the sale of the tickets, and are distributed to the poor by the Mayors. In most of the parishes of Paris also there are associations paroissiales de oienfaisance, for the education of poor children, and the relief of the sick, aged, and infirm. Nearly connected with the hospitals is the Administration du Mont de Piete, 18, rue des Blancs Manteaux.— This establishment, which has a dependence at 20, rue des Petits Augustins, was created in 1777 for the be- nefit of the hospitals. It enjoys the exclusive privilege of lending, upon moveable effects, four-fifths of the value of gold and silver articles, and two-thirds of the value of other effects. The money which it borrows for this purpose it ob- tains at 2^ per cent. It is required to be known and domi- ciliated, or to produce a passport, or papers en regie, in order to procure a loan, at the rate of one per cent, per month. After a year, the effects pledged are sold by auction, and the surplus paid to the borrower, within three years from the date of the duplicate. Previous to the expiration of the year, how- ever, the duplicate can be renewed, upon payment of the in- terest due upon it, and it is then good for another year ; at the expiration of the third year, the effects are sold without reserve. 24 commissioners are established in different quar- ters to receive articles on pledge, which they deposit at the Mont de Piete. From 1815 to 1833 the total number of ar- ticles pledged in Paris was 21,166,840, of the average value of 17 francs each ; the money received upon which amounted to 376,372,453 francs. The total value of articles taken out of pledge in the same time was 373,759,351 fr., and their number was 21,019,823. Savings Bank, called the Caissed'Epargne et de Prevoy- V 100 INTRODUCTION* ance, at the hotel of the Bank of France, rue de la Vril- liere. — This excellent institution -was established in 1818- The administration is gratuitous, being pa d out of money with which it was endowed by the original founder. Deposits from 1 fr. to 50 fr. are received here on Sundays and Mon- days from 10 to 2; and 4 per cent, compound interest is al- lowed on them. Not more than 2,000 fr. can be kept by any individual in this bank ; and the whole or part of the deposits may be withdrawn on giving 5 days' notice. The total amount of money paid in to this establishment during the year 1835 was 24,085,174 fr. divided among 150,000 depositors. The importance and utility of this most benevolent institution are spreading every year. It will give an idea of the general kind of contributors to this establishment to insert the following return for one week of the month of January 1836. On the 24th and 25th of that month the sum of 678,753 fr. was paid in by the following persons ; day labourers, including 46 miners, 1,996; servants 946 ; clerks, shopmen, shopwomen, etc., 269 ; shopkeepers and working tradesmen 332 ; garden- ers,, etc., 67 ; artists, musicians, actors, etc., 78; officers, soldiers, municipal guards, etc., 66; sailors 2; ecclesiastics 4; professors, medical men, teachers, students, governesses, etc., 134 ; persons living on their own incomes 191; holders of real property 44 ; persons of no designated profession 80 ; children 252 ; beneflt societies 2 ; total 4,433. Societe de Secours Mutuels entre Ouvriers. — At Paris there are 164 of these mutual benefit-societies, composed altogether of about 14,000 members. The most ancient, that of St. Anne, dates from 1694. Societe Brezin, 10, rue de l'Ecole de Medecine. — This is a beneflt-society founded by the will of the same benevolent individual to whom the hospital at Garches owes its origin. After the enumeration of the charitable institutions, we may take notice of the Order of Freemasons of Paris. Of the Rit Ecossais ancien et approuve there are 80 lodges in Paris, and 500 in France ; of the Rit Frangais ou Moderne there are 60 ateliers in Paris, and 600 in France. The Ordre Magonnique de Misraim holds its meetings at 41, rue Neuve St.JMerri. — Nearly all other societies, the forms of which are secret, are now forbidden by law. COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENTS. The Chamber of Commerce consists of the prefect of the COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 101 department and 15 bankers or merchants, 5 of whom are elected annually. They communicate with the government upon whatever concerns commercial affairs ; superintend all buildings connected with commerce, and attend to the execu- tion of the laws against smuggling, etc. They meet at the Exchange every Wednesday. The Exchange is open daily from 1 till 3 for the negotia- tion of public effects, and till 5 o'clock for other transactions. 60 agents de change, 60 courtiers de commerce, and 8 courtiers d 'assurance, named by the Ring, are alone authorised to trans- act public business here. The negotiation of public effects, bills of exchange, etc., belongs exclusively to the agents de change ; but bills are allowed by tolerance to be negotiated by brokers. The courtiers de commerce certify the price of gold and silver, fix the price of merchandize, rates of freight, etc. The courtiers d'assurance fix the rates of insurances, etc. The legal price of public effects and goods is fixed daily at the close of the Exchange, by the agents de change and courtiers, and entered upon the register of the Commissaire de la Bourse. (1) Bank of F&ance, rue de la Vrilliere. — This institution was formed in 1803 by a law which gave it the exclusive privilege of issuing notes payable to the bearer at sight, for 40 years. Its capital, which at first consisted of 45 millions of francs, has since been doubled ; and is now represented by 67,900 shares divided among 3,623 holders. The interest upon these shares can never exceed 6 per cent., but the sur- plus of the profits forms a reserved fund, the interest of which ii also divided among the shareholders. It is directed by a governor, 2 deputy governors, 15 regents, and 3 censors. The governor presides over the council of regency, and every six months a general council, composed of 200 of the greatest shareholders, audits the accounts of the institution. The operations of the Bank consist, in discounting bills of exchange or to order, at dates which cannot exceed three months, stamped and guaranteed by at least three signatures of merchants or others of undoubted credit ; in advancing money on government bills, of fixed dates ; in advancing mo- ney on bullion or foreign gold and silver coin ; in keeping an (i) The commercial transactions of France for the average of 4 years, 182c) — 32, were as follows : — with Asia 20 millions of francs; Africa 22 j S. America 41 ; N. America 2i5; Europe ?G4; Colonies io3. 9. 102 INTRODUCTION. account for voluntary deposits of every kind, government se- curities, national and foreign, shares, contracts, bonds of every kind, bills of exchange, other bills and all engagements to order or to bearer, gold and silver bars, national and foreign coin, and diamonds, with a charge for keeping according to the value of the deposit, which cannot ex- ceed an eighth of one per cent, for every period of six months and under; in undertaking to recover the pay- ment of bills on account of individuals and public esta- blishments ; to receive in a current account sums from in- dividuals and public establishments, and to pay the en- gagements it thereby contracts to the amount of the sums entrusted. The bank is open from nine o'clock till four daily, for the exchange of bills against specie. Discounting days are Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. To be admitted to discount, and to have a running account at the bank, a request must be made in writing to the governor, and be ac- companied by the certificate of three well-known persons. The usufruct of bank shares may be ceded, but the fee-simple may still be disposed of. The shares may be immobilisees , that is, converted into real property, by a declaration of the proprietor ; they are then, like any kind of real property, subject to the same laws, and have the same prerogatives. The noles of the Bank of France are of 1,000 and 500 ff., and the total value of those in circulation in 1832 was 239 millions of francs. At the same time there remained in its treasury 260 millions. Its rate of discount is 4 per cent., and the average annual amount of discounts effected by it in 10 years, 1820—30, was 493,355,700 fr. The annual circula- tion of money through all its departments is about 8 milliards, and ils annual profits are more than 7 millions. The accounts are made up, verifled, and submitted to the director every evening. Caisse d'Amortissement et Caisse de Dep6ts et Consignations. — These two establishments, though perfectly distinct from each other, are placed under the same director- general, who is assisted by a sub-director, by an inspecting committee, and by a council of general direction. The Caisse d'Amortissement conducts all operations relative to the reduction of the public debt of the country. The Caisse de Depots el Consignations receives all moneys deposited in it in consequence of legal awards, and other public proceedings, or by any public functionaries, for which it allows inierest at SOCIAL STATISTICS, 103 the rate of 3 per cent, per aim. after the money lias been de- posited 60 days. Private individuals may also deposit money here, for which they receive 2 per cent interest after the first 60 days. During the legislative session of the cham- bers, every year, the president of the inspecting committee makes a report of the state of the institution to the two cham- bers. The bureaux are established at the Maison de l'Oratoire, opposite the Louvre. The following is a list of the commercial establishments of note, authorized by the government: — Administration des Trots Pouts sur Seine, 26, rue de Bouloy. — Compagnie des Quatre Canaux, 20, rue St. Fiacre. — Service Generate des Inhuma- tions et Pompes Funebrcs, 183, rue du Faubourg St. Denis. — Compagnie d" Assurances Matuelles contre llncendie, 89, rue de Richelieu. — Compagnie d' Assurances Generates, 97, rue de Richelieu. — Compagnie Frangaise du Phenix contre Vln- cendie, 18, rue Neuve St. Augustin. — Compagnie Royale d' As- surances, 3, rue de Menars. — Compagnie de V Union contre Vlncendie, 1, rue Grange Baleliere. — Compagnie du Soleil contre Vlncendie, 13, rue du Helder. — Caisse Hypothecaire, for the lending of money on mortgages of real property, 30, rue Neuve St. Augustin. — Besides these may be men- tioned the following : — Compagnie pour V Exploitation de I'Usine royale d'Eclairage par le Gaz, 28, rue de la Tour d'Auvergne. — Compagnie Frangaise d'Eclairage par le Gaz Hydrogene, 97, rue du Faubourg Poissonniere. — Lloyd Fran- cais, 8, Place de la Bourse. This establishment is similar to that in London. — The West of England. The Law-Life and other English insurance Companies, have correspondents in Paris. For these and other commercial companies, estab- lishments, etc., see Directory. SOCIAL STATISTICS, Revenues, Taxes, etc. — The following is an official ac- count of the produce of the various taxes, etc., for the depart- ment of the Seine during the year 1833 : — Contributions directex, yiz., land-tax (fonder), 11,116,576 fi\; door and win- 104 INTRODUCTION. dow-tax, 2,681,828 fr.; personal and furniture tax, 5,651,868 fr.; licenses, 6,338,850; other taxes, etc., 232,972 fr. ; total, 26,022,128 fr. Contributions indirectes, 25,175,715 fr. : re- gistry and slamp duties, 24,088,306 fr. ; customs and salt duties, 3,702,455 fr. ; post-office, 9,165,333 fr. ; lottery 12,652,560(1); municipal duties, 29,038,703 fr.; gaming- houses, 5,500,000— general total, 132,145,203 fr. The re- venues of the city of Paris for the year 1835 were 44,436,797 fr., and the expenditure for the same year about 41,087,091 fr. The admirable financial management of the municipal affairs of the capital has brought the revenues of the town-chest into the healthy condition evidenced by the foregoing state- ment; the debt with which it was burthened, to the amount of 40 millions of francs, is being gradually paid off, and the town can dispose annually of a clear excess of more than 6 millions. During the year 1835^ the sum of 6,286,000 fr. was devoted by the municipality to the embellishment of the town, and a similar sum of 6,615,000 fr. has been allotted to the same purpose for the year 1836. (2) The total sum remain- ing in the town-chest at the beginning of J 836 was 19,600,106 fr. ; but of this only 3,397,000 fr. was disposable, not being destined to any specific service. The total territorial revenue of the department of the Seine was, in 1835, about 54,418,000 francs. The following table of the expenses of the population of Paris was calculated in 1826, and no attempt at any new in- vestigations of the kind has since appeared; there is no doubt, however, that there must be a very considerable increase on the whole. The head of taxes alone gives an increase of nearly 13 millions of francs ; and some of the other articles, though their actual amount can never be at all accurately calculated, would no doubt furnish a proportionate increase : —Taxes and similar expenses 119,107,157 fr. ; (3) rent (i) Now abolished by law. (a) The budget of the town for the year ]8.>7 is expected to give a clear excess 01*4,782,004 fr., to be devoted to improvements and embellishments. And if the excess of 1 836 amounts to 4,oC)5,ooo fr., and the same sum betaken from the reserved funds of the town, as in the two former years, there will be more than g millions of francs applicable during the year 1837 to great public "works. (3) Among the taxes are included the losses of persons at autho- rized gaming-houses, amounting to 11 millions annually 5 and the SOCIAL STATISTICS. 105 80,000,000 fr.; repair and embellishment of houses 20,000,000 fr. ; food 308,745,000 fr.; dress 61 ,749,000 fr.; fuel 42,300,000 fr.; lighting 17,421,000 fr. ; washing 31,500,000 fr. ; fur- niture 59,517,500 fr. ; education of children 31,285,200 fr. ; servants' wages and salaries 40,250,000 fr. ; horses and their keep 25,532,000 fr. ; carriages and harness 3,025,000 fr. ; transport within Paris 10,103,000 fr. ; tobacco and snuff 5,700,000 fr.; baths 2,800,000 fr. ; charity 10,000,000 fr. ; new years' gifts 1,500,000 fr. ; theatres and exhibitions 6,200,000fr.; accouchemens 872,500 fr.; nurses 3,300,000 fr. ; physicians, surgeons, and medicines 10,125,000 fr. ; journals 3,000,000 fr.— Tolal 894,032,193 fr. or 1,020 fr. 98 centimes for each inhabitant on the average. The population having increased at the same lime with the increase of expenditure, of which it has been in part the cause, and some of the com- modities consumed by it having much fallen in price since- then, it is probable that, if the above average of personal ex- penditure was correct in 1826, that it is nearly so now : but the total expenditure of the inhabitants, if a similar condition holds good, may be estimated at not less than 920 or 930 millions per annum. The following is a table of the consumption of the town of Paris during the year 1834, extracted from the Annuaire clu Bureau des Longitudes : — Wine Brandy . . , Cider and Perry Vinegar Beer Grapes Oxen . Cows Calves Sheep P.gs .... Pies, preserved meats, etc. Meat, coarse . Sansagrs, hams, salt pork, etc. OfTal . . Cheese, dry hectolitres ditto ditto ditto ditto kilogrammes head ditto ditto ditto ditto kilogrammes ditto ditto ditto ditto i6,39o 19,276 120, 55s i,56g,55fi 14,17? 70, '.39 36$ 4oq 85,336 1,122,4^6 1 ,062,873 1,100,187 sums paid for funeral ceremonies and interments, as well as for chairs in churches, making another million. The former item in the receipts of the town will cease to exist after 5\st Dec. 1687, according to a vote cf the Chamber of Deputies. 106 INTRODUCTION. Sea-fish (amount of sales in markets) Oysters « . . Fresh-water fish Poultry and game . . . Butter .... francs ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto bottes ditto 4,229,388 T, T 18,971 7,728,041 10,001,762 Straw , Oats hectolitres The ordinary consumption of Paris in grain and flour, sold at the Halle au Ble, is estimated at 4580 sacks, each weighing 159 kilogrammes, daily, or 91,695,300 kilogrammes annually. But when the price of hread is higher out of Paris than within the walls, Hour and grain are carried out for sale, and the daily consumption then exceeds 1700 sacks. The price of the loaf of household bread of 41bs. weight varies from 11 to 12 sous. The greatest numbers of oxen for the Paris markets are brought from the departments of Calvados, Maine et Loire, Eure, Manche, Orne, Vendee, and Haute Vienne ; their ave- rage price is from 300 to 330 fr. a-head. Cows come prin- cipally from the districts of Maine, Normandy, Beauce, and Brie ; their value is from 190 fr. to 200 fr. Calves come from Auvergne and Normandy, but are bought up by the dealers of Pontoise, and there fattened for the capital ; their average value is from 75 fr. to 90 fr. Sheep are sent in the greatest numbers from the departments of Seine et Oise, Seine, Indre, Maine, Orne, and Germany ; they sell from 20 to 26 fr. each. Tariff of the Octroi and Entrance Duties. — Wine in wood, 21 fr. per hectolitre; do. in bottles, 6 sous per litre ; vinegar, verjuice, etc., in wood or bottles, 10 fr. 10 sous per hect,; pure alcohol contained in brandy or spirits, in wood, brandy or spirits in bottles, liqueurs, fruit in brandy, and scented spirits, in wood or bottles, 81 fr. 8 sous per hect. ; perry. 11 fr. per hect.; cider and mead, 10 fr. per hect. ; heer brought to Paris, 4 fr. per hect. ; beer brewed at Paris, 3 fr. per hect. ; olive oil, 40 fr. per hect. ; other oils, 20 fr. per hect. ; oxen, 23 fr. per head ; cows, 15 fr. ; calves, 6 fr. ; sheep, 1 fr. 10 sous ; hogs and wild boars, 9 fr. ; coarse meat sold without weighing, 13 centimes per kilogramme ; sausages, hams, fresh pork, salt pork, bacon, etc., 4 sous per kilog. ; heads, feet, tripe, etc., 1 sous per kilog. ; fire-wood, 2 fr. per stere ; white wood, 1 fr. 10 sous per do. ; faggots, 3 fr. per SOCIAL STATISTICS. 107 hundred ; charcoal, 15 sous for two hectolitres ; coals, 10 sous per hectolitre ; dry hay (in trusses of 5 kilogrammes), 4 fr. per 100 trusses; straw, 1 fr. ; oats, 10 sous per hectolitre; quicklime, 1 fr. 4 sous per do. ; plaster, 36 centimes per do. ; rough stone, 12 sous per cubic metre ; hewn stone, 1 fr. 12 sous per do. ; marble and granite, 16 fr. per do. ; large slates, 5 fr., small slates, 4 fr., bricks, 6 fr., tiles, 7 fr. 10 sous, and square pavements, 5 fr. per 1,000 ; potter's clay and sand, 12 sous per cubic metre ; turf, 1 fr. per 100 ; laths, 10 fr. per 100 bundles ; wood, 8 and 10 fr. per stere, according to the quality or form ; dry cheese, 2 sous per kilogramme ; salt, 1 sous per do. ; white wax, and wax and spermaceti candles, 6 sous per do.; bees' -wax and rough spermaceti, 4 sous per do. ; hops, 2 sous per do. ; tallow and tallow candles, 3 fr. per 100 kilogs. ; barley, 1 fr. per hecto- litre. Detailed instructions are annexed to the tariff, by which it is regulated, and abuses are prevented. Every driver of vehicles, containing articles subject to duty, is bound to make declaration thereof at the bureau before he enters Paris ; to show his way-bill to the officers, and pay the duties, upon pain of a fine equal to the value of the articles in question. The officers have power to make any examination necessary to ascertain the truth of his declaration. Any article intro- duced without having been declared, or upon a false decla- ration, is liable to be seized. The officers cannot use the probing-iron in their examination of boxes, packages, etc., declared to contain goods that may suffer damage. Dili- gences, waggons, carts, cabriolets, and all carriages for trans- port are subject to examination. No individual, whatever be his dignity, office, or functions, is exempt from inspection or the duties. The produce of the octroi duties has been gradually increas- ing for some time back : in 1834 it amounted to 27,684,000 fr., and in 1835 to 29,050,000 fr. There are no authentic returns published of the produce of the different manufactures of the capital calculated to the present day. An immense increase has, however, taken place within the !ast 10 years, and is still proceeding very rapidly. The prefect of the department, in his Report of 1834, estimates the manufactures of Paris, exported to foreign countries, at 80 millions of francs annually ; and those for the consumption of the departments at the same sum. Of the 108 INTRODUCTION. manufacturing establishments of Paris, 2 belong to the govern- ment ; for tape&ry and carpets ; and for snuff. The first of these, known as " The Gobelins," does not sell its products: but the second furnishes nearly a Gflhof the snuff consume * in the country; the profit upon which is nearly 6 millions annually. Of the other manufactures of the capital, paper-hangings, leather, jewellery, chemical products, gas, fine hardware, fans, etc. give occupation to a vast number of persons, and yield considerable profits. Printing, engraving, and the pre- paration of all substances and materials connected with the fine arts, as well as the compounding of sugared sweetmeats, bonbons, etc., form very extensive branches of trade. (1) According to the very interesting table published in Mr. H. Lytton Bulwer's Work on France in 1835, to which the reader is referred for much curious information, it appears that of the journeymen employed in Paris, the cotton-spinners are paid the worst and work the hardest ; since they receive only from 1 to 2 fr. per diem, and work for 12 or 15 hours. The gene- ral average of wages in most other trades varies from 3 to 5 fr. a-day ; and the number of hours from 10 to 12. The rag- collectors, or chiffonniers, make from 1 fr. 50c. to 2 fr. a-day. Workwomen receive very low wages in Paris, from 15 to 30 sous being the ordinary average. Young women in shops receive their food, washing, and lodging, and are paid from 150 fr. to 400 fr. per annum. The ordinary expence of a journeymen is from 20 to 30 sous daily for food, and from 5 to 6 fr. per month for lodging. (2) A great part of the Paris workmen do no work on Monday morning as well as on Sunday afternoon. Their condition has been observed to improve nearly in the same proportion as Savings' Banks (1) An estimate of the animal commercial transactions of Paris, formed since i8io, gives the following results, the correctness of which, however, there are no means of ascertaining : — Jewellery, 2 9>'9l>"74 f r * per annum; clocks and watches, 19,775,000 fr. ; cotton and linen goods, i8,3g3,ooo fr. ; shawls, 4>^°°' 000 f r * / furniture, 12,000,000 fr. ; raffineries, of all kinds, 3 1,000 000 fr. ; silk stuffs, 4,817,000 fr. ; other sniffs, 4-^24,780 > m odes (ex- ports), 2,! 19,006 fr ; paper-hangings, 909,484 fr. ; books, 2,63 J,o5o fr. ; ribbons, 1,556,824 fr. ; gauzes, 841,6*00 fr. 5 hats and caps, 606,590 fr. (2) A.n examination of the lodging-houses inhabited by work- men, in i83G, showed that, of 33,272 workmen, only y5i were out of employment, SOCIAL STATISTICS. 100 have increased ; and will be still more benefited by the dif- fusion of primary education, and the abolition of the lottery. Markets, etc. — The first market-house in Paris was situ- ated in the Cite, near the street still called rue du Marche Palu. A market, called Marche de l'Apport, was afterwards held near the extremity of the rue St. Denis, till the reign of Louis VI., who transferred it to a piece of ground near the cemetery des Innocens, named Champeaux, or Petits Champs. Philip Augustus established two other markets near the same spot, and they took the name of halles. Each class of dealers and every neighbouring town had its particular halle. Francis L caused all the halles to be rebuilt with pillars of stone opening into dirty galleries, obstructed with irregular stalls. The in- convenience of these places began to be felt in the last century, and market-houses, for all sorts of provisions, have since been constructed in every part of Paris. The following is a list of the various markets, halles, etc : (1) — Marche des Innocents, for fruit, vegetables, etc., to which are attached the following markets and halles : — Marche au B curve; au Fromage; aux OEufs ; au Poisson - au Pain ; aux Pommes de terre ; aux Oignons ; des Herbo- ristes ; Halle aux Draps; aux Cuirs. General markets : — Marche des Blancs Manteaux; Beauveau ; des Carmes ; St. Honor e; St. Joseph; St. Germain; St .Martin; de la Made- leine. Meat-market, Marche des Prouvaires. Poultry-mar- ket, Marche des Augustins. Flower-markets :—M< arc he dw Quai Desaix; de la Place Royale; du Boulevard St. Martin ; de la Madeleine. Rags and Old Clothes-markets : — Marche du Temple; de la Halle aux Veaux; de St. Jacques. To these may be added the Halle au Ble, Halle aux Vins, and Halle aux Veaux; as well as the Marche aux Chevaux and the Marche aux Fourrages. There are also several smaller ones, which are not worthy of particular notice, viz. :— the Marche d'Aguesseau, Passage de la Madeleine ; Marche de Boulainviliiers, near 13, rue du Bac ; Marche Ste. Catherine, rue d'Ormesson, au Marais; Marche des Enfans Rouge, near 39, rue de Bretagne ; Marche de la Fraternite, rue St. Louis en Tile ; Marche Neuf, near the Pont St. Michel ; Marche de (i) A halle signifies a place where goods of any kind arc sold wholesale ; a marche is where the commodities of life are pure chased retail. 10 no INTRODUCTION* Ste. Genevieve, rue Soufflot; Marche des Patriarches, 135, rue Mouffetard ; Marche de la rue de Sevres ; and Marche Faubourg du Roule.(l) Abattoirs (Slaughter houses). —Previous to the forma- tion of these establishments for the slaughter of cattle, butchers were accustomed to drive the oxen they purchased at the markets of Sceaux and Poissy through the streets of Paris, to the great danger of the inhabitants. Besides, these animals contributed in a great degree to render the streets of the capi- tal more dirty, while the private slaughter-houses impregnated the atmosphere with noxious effluvia. A remedy for these nuisances had long been desired, when, in 1809, Napoleon decreed the construction of five public abattoirs at the extre- mities of the city, and the suppression of the slaughter-houses in the central parts of Paris. Of these establishments three are to the north of the city ; viz. the Abattoirs du Route, de Monlmartre, and de Popincourt; and two to the south, viz. those of Ivry and of Vaugirard. The five abattoirs being finished in 1818, at an expense of 16,518,000 fr., a police ordonnance was issued which fixed the 15th of September for their opening, and prohibited from that day cattle being driven to private stables or slaughter-houses. Houses for melting the tallow and drying the skins are attached to each of these esta- blishments. A duty is paid upon the animals slaughtered, in the following proportion, viz. an ox, 6 fr. ; a cow, 4 fr. ; a calf, 2 fr. ; and a sheep, 10 sous. The product of this duty, including the duties on the purtenances and tallow, and the sale of manure, was 947,305 fr. in 1834. Strangers may visit these establishments, by applying for a guide at the porter's lodge, to whom a small fee is given. (i) In the absence of any published returns of the sales effected in the various markets of Paris, it may be interesting to mention three facts that have lately been ascertained. The annual con- sumption of potatoes in Paris is nearly 32^,000 kilogrammes, or about 65o, ooo lbs. More than 20 cart-loads of water-cresses are brought into Paris daily, each of which produces 3oo fr., thus giving a daily consumption of 6,ooo fr., or an annual one of nearly a millions of francs for this article alone. The accuracy of this return may, however, be suspected. To give an idea of the con- sumption of flowers in Paris, it may be mentioned that at 5 in the morning of the festival of the Assumption, i834> there were ex- posed for sale in the different markets of the capital 3o,ooo pots of flowers, valued at 45,ooo fr. SOCIAL STATISTICS. |1| We annex the following as a sort of general summary* The number of butchers in Paris is 400, who each find secu- rity for 3,000 fr. They occupy 400 stalls, and 112 slaughter- houses. The 28 melting-houses in the five abattoirs have been placed at the disposal of persons called fondeurs (melters), who must not be chandlers. There are eight at Popincourt, eight at Montmartre, four at the Roule, four at Grenelle, and four at Villejuif. The abattoirs of Popincourt and Montmartre have each 64 slaughter-houses, that of Grenelle 48, and the two others 32 each. Country butchers are allowed to bri^^ meat to the markets of Paris upon paying a duty of 12 cents, per pound. The want of an abattoir for swine having long been felt, the municipality of Paris have decided on erecting one, as soon as circumstances will permit. The Ports along the sides of the river, or wharfs, are places where goods may be landed and sold as in an entrepot, there being always officers of the customs in attendance to examine the nature and quantity of the cargoes discharged. Of these the principal are the Port de la Rapce, for wine and fire-wood ; aux Tailes, for tiles, bricks, slates, etc. ; St. Nicolas, for merchandize from Rouen; d'Orsay, for wine, stone, etc.; des Invalides, for fire-wood. The movement on the river is very considerable, and is principally effected by the large boats called caches d'eau, which carry passengers as well as merchandize ; by barks ; and by steamers, of which there are 7 or 8 plying up the river. The principal depot for fire-wood is in the He Louviers, which is entirely occupied by it : large wood-yards are, how- ever, to be found along the river and on all the outskirts of the town. The wood is brought down the river either in rafts, or in barges ; the latter being of a finer and more expensive sort. Charcoal and coal are sold on board the boats that lie off the lie de la Cite and the lie St. Louis, as well as along the Canal de l'Ourcq, a large market for the express sale of charcoal having been established near the top of the rue du Faubourg St. Martin, in the rue des Recollets. From the departments above Paris, about 11,000 boats ar- rive annually, with fruit, hay, corn, flour, tiles, bricks, wine, hemp, flax, paving-stones, etc. ; besides about 4,500 floats of timber, fire- wood, and charcoal. From Havre and Rouen there come about 600 boats with colonial produce, glass, cider, wine, brandy, salt, foreign corn, etc. The average Ii2 INTRODUCTION. annual duties paid for the navigation of the Seine amount to about 700,000 fr. PHYSICAL STATISTICS. Streets and Houses, etc. — It has been calculated that there are more than 30,000 houses in Paris of all descrip- tions. The streets are 1,209 in number ; avenues and alleys, 33; boulevards, 19 ; places, 96; carrefours, 36 ; courts, 15; passages, 173 ; alleys not thoroughfares, 129 ; quays, 33 ; ports, 14. The total area of the public highways has been estimated at about 7,500,000 French square feet. The ex- pense of the pavement repairs, etc. in Paris for the year 1835 amounted to 854,000 fr. New pavements cost 300,000 fr. ; and foot-pavements or trottoirs about 600,000 fr. ; of which 450,000 fr. were paid by the proprietors of houses.(l) The streets of Paris have all been formed, more or less, upon the model of those which existed in the older parts of the town long before coaches were invented, or carts and waggons ever traversed the city : and since the civilization and comfort of the lower and middling orders were entirely neglected by the state until the revolution of 1788, the streets of Paris, inhabited by the artizan rather than by the noble, remained unimproved till within the last 50 or 60 years. Hence Paris is inferior to most of the other capital towns of Europe as far as the width, cleanliness, and general appear- ance of most of its streets are concerned. From the peculiar domestic habits of the greater part of the inhabitants, living not in single houses, but tenanting dwellings in common, proprietors are not anxious to make those improvements which the citizens of all other capital towns have long ago ef- fected : the manners, too, of the Parisians still tolerate the public committal of nuisances which deprive their streets of any pretensions to cleanliness, and contribute not a little to the hindrance of any amelioration. The municipality of Paris (i) The cost of maintaining the routes royales, Ymdges, quays, etc., of the department amounted in the same year to 2,165,687 fr., of which the city of Paris paid i,o52,ooo fr. The streets were fust paved during the reign of Philip Augustus. PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 113 have, however, within the last few years, devoted their at- tention to the widening and embellishing of their roadways ; and large sums are now annually expended for that most de- sirable purpose. Still the interior of Paris must for ever re- tain the appearance of a town of the middle ages; and until the habits of the people can themselves be improved, and the regulations of the police be more strictly enforced, the mud and the black unwholesome gutters of the greater part of the central streets of this capital will still offend the senses of the visitor, and render the task of attempting to explore them as unpleasant as in every other respect it must be interesting. According to the orders of the prefect of police, no rubbish is allowed to be thrown into the streets except at night or early in the morning ; and every proprietor is bound to sweep his half of the road, in front of his walls, every morning, and in the summer to water it. Whoever has once traversed Paris will know how this regulation is attended to.(l) The stone used for forming the pavements of the streets and places of the metropolis, as well as of many of the high-roads of France, is of the most excellent description ; being a com- pact and exceedingly hard sandstone, highly crystallized, found on the outskirts of the Paris Basin. The footways are gene- rally made with the lavas and basalts of Volvic, in Auvergne; but a new invention has lately been introduced, and promises to be universally adopted. It consists of a mixture of asphal- tum and flint-gravel, which, being poured in a hot fluid state on a level surface, hardens immediately, never cracks, and will endure any degree of wear and tear. The cost of it per square metre is only 8 fr. 50 c; that of lava is 13 fr. It was not till the year 1728 that the useful plan was adopted of placing the names of streets in a conspicuous situation ; and the names then given to them remained without variation till (i) It is surprising that the size and width of vehicles, and more particularly of carts and waggons intended for the transport of merchandize in the interior of Paris, have not been regulated and restrained within certain limits by the police. The streets exist, and it is easier to accommodate the size of vehicles to the streets than to alter the streets to suit the increased passage of vehicles. As a specimen of the inconvenience felt in the most busy part of the town, may he quoted the rue St. Denis at the lower end, the rue des Lombards, and the rue St. Martin, which the curious visitor would do well to inspect in the middle of a winter day. the Revolution. Previous to that period, there was Scarcely & street in Paris that had not changed its denomination several times, and thes£ changes generally had their origin in some particular circumstance, such as the name of a distinguished personage, or an extraordinary event that had occurred in them. The names of the streets are now painted on slabs of lava, with white letters on a blue ground : all the colours being fixed by fire and quite indestructible. These slabs are affixed to the corner houses. Until the reign of Louis XVI. Paris was lighted during only 9 months of the year, and then only in the absence of moon- light. That monarch decreed its continuance during the whole year. Hitherto it has been lighted by lamps suspended from ropes hung across the street, which, though aided by reflectors and kept well cleaned, have served for little else than to make darkness visible. Gas has, however, long been introduced into the shops and public buildings, and the whole city is shortly expected to be lighted in the same manner. Places. — Every open space at the junction of streets, etc., of more than usual size, is termed a place. ' Some of them are remarkable for their surrounding edifices, and a few for their sixe. The principal are the Place de la Concorde, du Carrou- sel, Vendome, des Victoires f Royale, etc. Descriptions of each will be found under the head of the arrondissement in which it is situated. The Boulevards. — Under Louis XIV. Paris ceased to be a fortified city. By a decree of that monarch, the walls and towers, which had fallen into decay, were pulled down, and the ditches filled up. When the demolition of the southern enclosure had been carried into effect, the king formed the resolution of opening a wide road round the capital, and rplanting it with trees. In 1670, the fortifications on the north were demolished, and the road, which took the name of Boulevard (bulwark), was planted from the rue St. Antoine to the rue St. Martin. In the following year the Porte St. Denis was demolished, and the triumphal arch, which bears the same name, was erected. The Boulevard was at the same time continued from the rue St. Martin to the rue St. Monore. The northern boulevards being finished in 1704, the king issued a decree for similar works to be executed on the south ; they, however, proceeded very slowly, and were not finished till 1701. Under the government of Napoleon, the PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 115 Boulevard on the northern bank of the Seine" was prolonged from the rue St. Antoine to the river. The boulevards which, since the formation of a similar road without the barriers, have been distinguished by the name of Boulevard interieur, form two grand divisions called the Boulevard du Nord, and the Boulevard du Midi. The former is 5,067 yards in length , and is subdivided into 12 parts, bearing the following names : the Boulevards Bourdon, St. An- toine, des Filles du Calvaire,du Temple, St. Martin, St. Denis, Bonne Nouvelle, Poissonniere, Montmartre, des Italiens, des Capucines, and de la Madeleine. The Boulevard du Midi is i 6,100 yards in length, and is divided into 7 parts, as follows: the Boulevards de I'Hdpital, des Gobelins, de la Glaciere, St. Jacques, d'Enfer, du Mont Parnasse, and des Invalides. These roads are planted with 4 rows of trees, forming a carriage-road with a double walk on each side. The Boidevard exterieur, which was not finished till 1814, is planted with trees, and divided into several parts, bear- ing different denominations. The name of the street called rue Basse du Rempart, below the boulevards on the north side, still indicates what it once was. On the northern boule- vards new objects constantly strike the eye of the stranger ; they are skirted in most parts with elegant houses, shops, res- taurants, and cafes. The Boulevard des Italiens is the most fashionable part. Here in fine weather loungers of both sexes throw themselves carelessly on chairs, and thus pass a great part of the day. Nothing can exceed the gaiety of this spot till midnight. The chairs are hired for two sous each. The common people prefer the Boulevard du Temple, where puppet shows, pantomimes, rope-dancing, mountebanks, etc. are always ready to amuse them ; and on Sunday evenings, this spot resembles a fair. These boulevards are well lighted by the shops, etc. along their sides ; and form the princi- pal promenade of the inhabitants of Paris. The boulevards to the south offer a striking contrast to this lively picture. On their sides, at considerable distances, are some elegant houses and gardens a VAnglaise, but no crowds, no noise ; the air is pure and salubrious, and those who like a solitary shady walk will here be gratified. The exterior boulevards are nearly the same as the southern ones ; except that they are studded with innumerable guinguettes, where the lower orders of Paris resort to dance, and to drink wine, without pay- 116 INTRODUCTION. ing the duties of the octroi. Those on the south-eastern side, and those on the north-western, are the least frequented and the most agreeable. Passages. — These are comparatively recent inventions in the arrangement of the capital, and were no doubt borrowed from the model of the Palais Royal. The success with which the erection of most of them has been attended has caused their multiplication to a great extent within the last few years. All the taste and elegance of the Parisian shopkeepers are here displayed, and they are the grand resort of all the loungers of the town, The most remarkable are the follow- ing : the Passages des Panoramas, Vivienne, Colbert, ChoiseuL du Saumon, Vero-Dodat, Delorme, etc. It may be observed in general that the shops in them, though small, are exceed- ingly convenient for their holders, but are commonly let at a very high rent. Bazars. — There are very few of these establishments now existing in Paris; three on the northern boulevards being the only ones of any notability. The purposes that they are in- tended to answer are more completely attained by passages. Common Sewers, etc. — The Seine and the Bievre in the southern part of Paris, and the Seine and the rivulet of Menil- montant in the northern part, were formerly the only recep- tacles for rain-water, etc. When ditches were opened round the city-walls, these served as sewers, and some parts of them, now arched over, are still devoted to that purpose. About the year 1370, the grand egout from Menilmontant to Chaillol, and several smaller ones, were formed. These sewers becom- ing gradually choked up, and not being covered, were insuf- ferable nuisances wherever they passed, and several times threatened to generate contagious diseases by their exhala- tions. The evil had become so great in 1671, that it was de- termined that several of the sewers should be vaulted, and at the same time was formed the egout de 1' Hotel des Invalides. In 1734 the lower part of the egout Montmartre was vaulted; in 1740 the grand egout was covered in; and in 1754, three new sewers were built. Those which surround the Palais Royal were opened when that edifice was built, and empty themselves into that of the Place du Carrousel. In 1829 se- veral new ones were formed on the south side of the river. Dur- ing 1835 very extensive operations of this nature were car- ried on at the expense of the town of Paris, and at a cost of a PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 117 million of francs. The gutters, that used to run in the middle of the streets, are now placed by the sides of the trottoirs, and a general system of large and well-arched drains is to be found under every street of the quarters comprised between the rue St. Denis and the Place Vendome. This improvement, which was so much needed, will be extended to the whole of Paris. Closely connected with the drainage of the town, is the system adopted for removing the ordure and rubbish of each individual house. For this purpose the establishment of Montfaucon is maintained. (See 5th Arrondissement.) The pestilential effect produced by this place upon the atmosphere of that part of Paris has led, of late days only, to the experi- ment of absorbing wells. These, wherever they have been tried, at the Barrier du Combat and elsewhere, have succeede J, and will, it is supposed, be applied to the remedying of the present system. Quays. —The banks of the Seine, with the exception of that part opposite the Halle aux Yins and the Garden of Plants, are skirted with spacious quays, which, although dis- tinguished by different names, form in reality only two lines of road. The most ancient, the Quai des Augustins, dates from 1312, and the Quai de la Megisserie, from 1369. Under Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. some progress was made in the con- struction of quays, particularly in the He de la Cite, and the He St. Louis, which are now entirely surrounded by them, except a portion of the former upon which part of the Hotel Dieu stands. The Quai d'Orsay, down to 1801, remained a muddy strand intersected by drains and open sewers. Napoleon particularly directed his attention to the improvement of Paris by the con- struction and repair of quays, and his plans have been com- pleted. The banks of the Seine now display a line of quays unequalled by any city in Europe. Their total length is nearly 10 English miles, and their construction during the reign of Napoleon cost more than 12,000,000 fr. They now form large terraces on which a roadway runs, with a trottoir generally on each side, and most of them planted with trees. Next to the boulevards and public gardens, they afford the most agreeable promenades of Paris. Beneath many of them are shelving terraces of stone descending into the river, called the Ports, and serving for the debarkation of goods. The ne- cessity of these stone embankments will be perceived, when the height to which the river sometimes rises is taken into 118 INTRODUCTION. account ; they are often the means of preventing the lower parts of the capital from being overflowed. Bridges. — The bridges at Paris, owing to the elevation of the quays above the river, have very little ascent, and are therefore convenient; they are, however, in general, far in- ferior to the bridges of Rome or Florence, and are net to be compared with the stupendous masses of Waterloo, Blackfriars, London, or Westminster. Their number over the Seine, be- tween the barriers of Paris, is at present 21, and will soon be 24 ; of which 4 are suspension bridges, 3 are formed of iron and stone, 1 of wood, and the rest of stone altogether. For descriptions oT them the reader is referred to the Arrondisse- ments. Rail-roads. — Several rail-roads are in process of forma- tion from Paris to different places. The principal are the following: — The St. Germain's rail-road, by Asnieres. This road begins near the church of the Madeleine, passes through the high ground at the upper end of the rue de Londres by means of a tunnel, and thence to Asnieres by a bridge over the Seine, and so by Nanterre to St. Germain. It is expected to be terminated by 1839. The Versailles rail-road, on the northern bank of the Seine, is to run identically with that of St. Germain, as far as Asnieres : from thence it will branch off to Gourbevoie and St. Cloud: will pass through the park of St. Cloud by a tunnel, and thence by Sevres to Versailles. The Versailles rail-road, on the southern bank of the Seine, will commence in the faubourg St. Germain, and will cross the plain of Grenelle to Sevres, from whence it will pass, parallel to that of the northern bank, along the main line of road to Versailles. The law authorising the adjudication of these two rival undertakings passed the Chamber of Deputies during the session of 1836. The Tours rail-road is to pass through Versailles, Rambouillet, Chartres, and Blois : it is not yet begun. The Havre rail-road, by Rouen* is not yet begun, nor is its line settled. Other undertakings of the same kind may be expected. (1) Canals. — The canals on the north of Paris are all branches of one and the same undertaking ; the bringing of the waters of the river Ourcq to the capital. Proposals to this effect (i) The costs of these rail-roads have all been estimated, but it wouid be evidently premature to fix any sum as the probable amount, until these undertakings are really completed. PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 119 were made in 1799, but the authorisation of Government was not granted till 1802. The works were carried on till 1814, when they were entirely suspended ; in 1818 the municipality of Paris were empowered to borrow 7 millions for the com- pletion of the works, and they were soon advanced far enough to be used for the purposes intended. Since 1830 they have been completely finished. The objects for which this canal has been opened are to convey to a spacious basin water for the supply of the inhabitants of the capital, and the fountains which embellish it ; to form on the north of the city a canal composed of two navigable branches, the one extending from the Seine at St. Denis to the basin, and the other from the basin to the Seine at the Arsenal ; and, lastly, to furnish a supply of water to the manufactories of the capi- tal. The various branches or ramifications of this canal are known by the names of the Canal de V Ourcq, the Bassin de la Villette, the Aqueduc de Ceinture, the Canal St. Martin, the Gave de V Arsenal, and the Canal St. Denis. The Canal de 1' Ourcq receives the water of the Ourcq be- yond the mill of Mareuil, about 10 leagues from Paris, and, after collecting the streams of the Colli nance, the Gergogne, the Therouenne, and the Beuvronne, falls into the Bassin de la Villette. Its volume, according to an accurate calculation, is 8,510 inches during 6 weeks of the year, and 12,037 inches during the remaining 40. The declivity is 92 ft. 9 inches ; and the water falls at the rate of 1 ft. in a minute. Its total length is 24 leagues ; between Mareuil and Lizy its breadth is 31 ft. ; but from the latter place to the Bassin de la Yilletle it is only 11 ft. wide. Its cost was 25,000,000 fr. The Bassin de la Villette, situated without the Barriere de Pantin, was begun in 1806, and finished in 1809. It forms a parallelogram of 740 yards by 77, and is built of substantial masonry. The waters of the Canal de V Ourcq are received at the northern extremity. The axis of the basin is the same as that of an elegant rotunda, which forms barracks for gen- darmes, and its banks are planted with 4 rows of trees. At the two angles of the southern extremity are openings, which supply water to the Aqueduc de Ceinture and the Canal St. Martin. The Aqueduc de Ceinture extends from the western angle of the basin as far as Mouceaux, encircling Paris on the north. Its length is 10,300 yards. This aqueduct sends out 14 branches, 120 INTRODUCTION. called galeriesde St. Laurent, des Martyrs, duMontblanc, and de Mouceaux. The first supplies the Chateau d'Eau Boulevard St. Martin, the Place Royale, and the Marche des Innocens; the second, the faubourgs Montmartre and Poissonniere, with the Palais Royal ; the third, the Chaussee d'Antin, the quar- tier des Capucines, and the Marche St. Honore ; the fourth, the Champs Elysees, the Tuileries, the Invalides, and the Ecole Militaire. The Canal St. Martin is 3,467 yards in length, by 21 feet in width; and communicates between the eastern angle of the basin and the Gare de 1' Arsenal. It is constructed of solid masonry, and the sides are skirted with haling-ways and trees. This canal passes between the boulevard and the Hos- pital St. Louis, and, after traversing the Faubourg du Temple, the rue Menilmontant, and the rue du Chemin Vert, falls into the gare in the Place de la Bastille. The total cost of its con- struction was more than 14,200,000 fr. The Gare de 1' Arsenal, formed of the moat of the Bastille, cleared of its rubbish and old constructions, is 651 yards in length, by about 64 in breadth. On the right leading down to the river is a haling-way 10 feet wide. It is capable of re- ceiving upwards of 80 barges, leaving the middle clear for a passage. A bridge has been erected towards the river, over the sluice where the waters of the gare fall into the Seine. The Canal St. Denis begins near the town from which its name is derived, at the spot where the small river Bouillon empties itself into the Seine, and terminates at the Canal de l'Ourcq in a small semicircular sheet of water, about 900 yards beyond the Bassin de la Villette. After encircling the town of St. Denis on the Paris side, this canal extends in a straight line to the Canal de l'Ourcq. Its length is 7,333 yards, and in its course there are 12 sluices, and 2 bridges. Aqueducts. — Aqueduc d'Arcueil. — Over a valley to the south of Paris, formed by the course of the Bievre, the Romans erected an aqueduct for the conveyance of water to the Palais des Thermes, from Arcueil, a village at two leagues distance, which evidently derived its name from the arches which sup- ported the aqueduct. Part of this ancient construction, con- sisting of two arches substantially built, still exists, near the modern aqueduct. The scarcity of water in the southern part of Paris was more particularly felt after Mary de Medicis built the Palace of the Luxembourg, and, the population increased PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 121 in that quarter. A project formed by Henry IV. of re-esta- blishing the Roman aqueduct to convey the waters of Rongis to Paris, was therefore renewed. On the 17th of July, 1613, Louis XIH. and the queen regent, his mother, in great pomp, laid the first stone of the aqueduct, which was built after the designs of Desbrosses, and finished in 1624. This aqueduct, which extends across the valley of Arcueil upon 25 arches, 72 feet in height by 1,200 in length, presents a magnificent mass of building. Its total length, from Arcueil to the Chateau d'Eau, near the Observatory, is 13,200 yards. Nine of the arches are open for the passage of the river, which, how- ever, generally flows through two in the centre. In the inte- rior of the aqueduct on each side is a parapet which forms a walk. On the outside along the whole line are various open- ings, called regards. This aqueduct was thoroughly repaired in 1777; and fresh sums of money have lately been devoted to the same purpose by the town of Paris. It supplies 36,000 hogsheads daily. Strangers are readily admitted to see the in- terior by applying to the keeper of the aqueduct at Arcueil. Aqueduc de Belleville. — A considerable quantity of water is supplied to Paris from a hill abounding in springs, situated at a short distance to the north ; and upon which the village of Belleville has been built. The aqueduct by which it is con- veyed is the most ancient in the vicinity, having been built in the reign of Philip Augustus. It was repaired in 1457, and again in 1602 by order of Henry IV. The first reservoir is situated upon the most elevated point of the village of Belleville. It consists of a substantial free-stone building, 50 feet in circumference, but not lofty, on account of the height of the hill and the depth of the springs. It is covered with a dome, surmounted by an open lantern through which light is admitted. Two staircases lead down to the bottom of the re- servoir and the entrance of the aqueduct. In the centre is a basin which, as the water rises, empties itself into the aque- duct. At the Barriere de Meniimontant is another reservoir, from whence the water is distributed to the adjoining parls of Paris. Its daily supply is 432 hogsheads. Aqueduc de St. Gervais or de Romainville.— By this aque- duct the water from the heights of Romainville, Bruyeres, and Meniimontant flows into a reservoir in the village of Pre St. Gervais, from whence it is conveyed to Paris by leaden pipes. The date of its erection is unknown, but it existed in the time 11 122 INTRODUCTION. of St. Louis. It was repaired at the same time with the aque- duct of Belleville, by order of Henry IV. The reservoir was rebuilt in the time of Louis XIV. The supply is 648 hogsheads per diem. Besides these aqueducts pipes have been lately brought across the plains of St. Denis from the Seine, for the supply of Batignolles and Montmartre with water. Fountains. — From the nature of the soil on which Paris is built, consisting of rocky strata to an immense depth, the town is almost without springs, and therefore derives water consumed by its inhabitants either from the Seine or from dis- tant sources brought by means of aqueducts. Hence has arisen the necessity of erecting fountains in different parts of the town for the accommodation of the inhabitants. At the be- ginning of the 15lh century there were only 12 public foun- tains, and a century later, under Francis L, there were not more than 16, supplying only 1 inch of water ; though the population at that time amounted to 300,000 inhabitants. Under Henry IV. and Louis XIII. the town began to be better supplied ; the pump of the Samaritaine at the Pont Neuf was erected, and the aqueduct of Arcueil rebuilt ; 14 new foun- tains w ere built, but the supply was still greatly inadequate. Under Louis XIV. and Louis XV., when the population was 600,000, the pump of the Pont Notre Dame was the principal source of the supply of water to the various fountains, and it furnished 80, 60, or 27 inches, according to the state of the seasons and its own condition. (1) The establishment of the Pompe a feu at Chaillot, and afterwards of that at Gros Gaillou, brought some remedy to this state of things by supplying 320 additional inches: but it was only when that undertaking had passed into the hands of the government, that the necessitous classes began to profit by a better distribution of drinkable water. The Canal de l'Ourcq completed the supply of the capi- tal; which, since fountains are now erected in all parts of Paris, may be said to be good ; but still the convenience of a fountain to each house does not exist, and the purchase of (i) If the quantity of water necessary for i individual for i(± Lours be calculated at only one litre, or quart, i inch of water will supply iooo inhabitants. The distress of the inhabitants in 1774 mav therefore be judged of, when 100 inches of water was the only supply for 600,000 inhabitants. Ancient Rome was sup- plied by its aqueducts with 6944 inches, and still receives i5oo. PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 123 water becomes a regular article of domestic expenses. (1) The municipality are devoting large sums every year to increasing the supply of this principal necessary of health and life; and new fountains or pipes are being opened almost every day. A large establishment for the purification of the waters of the Seine, which, on account of the sediment with which they are charged, are unfit for drinking until they have been fil- tered, has long existed at the eastern end of Paris; and a pro- posal has lately been made to the general council of the de- partment to supply each house in Paris with water brought to it in pipes, by a company of shareholders. The public foun- tains form very ornamental objects in the streets of Paris ; and descriptions of all that are worthy of remark will be found un- der the head of each arrondi-sement. (2) Baths, etc. — The use of baths was introduced into Gaul by the Romans, and rapidly spread among the inhabitants, parti- cularly at Paris. In the middle ages public baths, called ctuves, were so common in Paris, that six streets or alleys de- rive their names from them. These establishments maintained their reputation for a long period, and their proprietors, called barbiers-etuvistes , formed a corporate body. Under Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. they became places of pleasure and debauchery, to which cause may be attributed their decline. At present the baths in Paris are numerous, and afford every kind of accommodation at a low charge. The bathing-esta- blishments are formed of ranges of small rooms, furnished with every necessary appendage. Mineral and sulphur baths are also common in Paris, and very reasonable. The bains am- bulant, or portable baths, established within a few years, are a great accommodation to invalids, and the public in general. For a list of the principal establishments of this kind see Di- rectory. Besides the ordinary bathing-establishments, there are (t) It is calculated that upwards of 4 millions of francs are an- nually paid by the inhabitants of Paris for water. (i) Large reservoirs supplied by steam-engines from the Seine have been lately formed at Belleville and Passy. In the abattoir de Crenelle the boring system has been applied, but unattended with success, after piercing to a great depth. The boring is still continued there by order of the government, as an experi- ment for scientific purposes, and has been carried to 1000 feet in depth. The chalk and green sand formations have been reached it. 124 INTRODUCTION. Ecoles de Natation, or swimming-schools, and baths of every kind, formed in boats on the Seine every summer. Some of the swimming-schools are very large, and all are well regu- lated. They are made by barges, moored round a certain space, and fitted up with galleries, bathing-rooms, plunging- bridges, etc. A net work is placed at the bottom, which can be raised to the surface on occasion. Men are always in at- tendance to give instructions in swimming, and ropes and poles are in readiness either to aid pupils or prevent acci- dents. Their price generally is 12 sous, but there are baths, or swimming-places, on the river, for the lower order of people, at as low a price as 4 sous. There are also swimming- schools for females : and it may be observed that, in general, the Parisians know how to appreciate and to utilize their river. Cemeteries. — At a period more remote than the seventh century, the Parisians buried their dead in the Roman fashion, without the city walls, along the sides of the high roads. By degrees the priests granted permission for interments to take place in churches and the ground contiguous. The increase of the population rendering it necessary to extend the bounds of the city, the cemeteries became inclosed within the walls, where they remained till towards the end of the 18th century. In the year 1790, the National Assembly passed a law ex- pressly prohibiting interments within churches, and com- manding all towns and villages to discontinue the use of their old burial-places, and form others at a distance from their dwellings. During the revolutionary tyranny which soon after ensued, men were buried without any ceremony, or me- morial to mark the spot where they lay. But, in the spring of 1800, a decree was issued by the prefect of the department of the Seine, which ordained three cemeteries to be enclosed for the use of Paris, of a certain extent, and at a distance of one mile from the walls. In the centre of each a Luctuaire or Salle de Deuil was to be erected, destined to receive the fu- neral procession, and consecrated to the ceremony which might precede the act of interment. Six funeral temples were to be built in Paris, to serve as depots before the funeral. A mode of burial common to all was to be established, and other regulations were prescribed with much exactness ; but most of them, though good, were not complied with. In 1804, an imperial decree was issued, repeating the prohibition of inter- PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 125 ment in churches, or within the bounds of a town. High ground exposed to the north, was, by this decree, to be chosen for cemeteries ; and every corpse was to be interred in a se- parate grave, fromlj^ to two metres deep, and the earth to be well trodden down. There was to be a certain distance be- tween the graves, which were not to be re-opened till after five years. Another imperial decree, in 1811, consigned the whole funeral business of the metropolis to one company of undertakers-general, arranged funerals into seven classes, and appointed a tariff, whereby the expense of every separate article and assistant was determined. This decree is still in force. The expenses of funerals are as follow : — Pom pes C£n5monies Funebres. Religieuses. Total. 7th Glass, paid by the Town 8 fr. 0 fr. 8 fr. 6th 16 10 26 5th 80 20 100 4th 260 So 3io 3rd 570 m 700 and i,5oo 3oo 1,800 4,282 I St • • 3,682 600 Land is granted by the mayor of each arrondissement, either for 6 years, concession temporaire, at the rate of 50 fr. per square metre, or in freehold right, concession a pcrpetuitc, at the rate of 125 fr. per square metre. For persons above 7 years of age not less than 2 square metres can be granted. The price is constant for all the cemeteries. There are some small additional charges for the digging of the grave, etc. Any person or company may be entrusted with the erection and repairs of the tombs, etc. ; and the cost of such charges is of course various, according to the persons by whom they are performed. The interments take place with or without the performance of any religious ceremony, in what manner and by whom the friends of the deceased please. The tariffs will be found at each cemetery, where full information on all particulars may be obtained. The cemeteries of Paris are five in number, viz. the Cimelieres de Montmartre, du Pere la Chaise, Vaugirard, Ste. Catherine, and Mont-Parnasse. They are laid out in a picturesque style; the monuments are often in good taste, and many of the inscriptions are interesting. On Sundays they are the resort of the inhabitants of the capi- tal ; and on All Souls' Day, which is set apart for the comme- moration of the dead, whole families of the Parisians visit the 11. 126 INT&ODTJCTIOK. graves of their relations. A notice of each cemetery will be found attached to that of the arrondisseraent nearest to which it lies. <&lxaptcv 6. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PARIS. The origin of Paris and the character of its first inhabitants are necessarily involved in deep obscurity. According to his- torians whose opinions are generally received, an errant tribe obtained permission of the Senones, at a very remote period, to settle upon the banks of the Seine, near their territory. Upon the island now called la Cite they constructed huts, which served as a fortress for them to retreat to with their flocks and effects when an attack from any of the neighbour- ing tribes was apprehended. To their fortress they gave the name of Lutetia, (1) and themselves assumed that of Pa- Hsu. (2) Upon the conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar, half a century before the Christian era, he found the Parisii one of the G4 tribes of the Gallic confederation, whose chief town was Lu- tetia. The island, covered with rude huts, was defended by the w aters of the Seine, over which there were two bridges. The banks of the river were covered with gloomy forests or extensive marshes, and the inhabitants, w ho were remarkably fierce, employed themselves in navigation and fishing. Caesar rebuilt Lutetia, fortified it with walls, and defended the ap- proach to it by two forts at the extremities of the bridges. The ferocious divinities of the Gauls were then exchanged for Ro- man gods, and human blood ceased to flow upon the altars of the Druids. Jupiter was worshipped at the eastern extremity of the island ; Mars had a temple at Montmartre ; Isis was adored at Issy and upon the site of the abbey of St. Germain des Pres; and Mercury had a temple upon the Mons Leucoti- tius, now called Montagne Ste. Genevieve. The Roman laws and a municipal government were gradually introduced ; and (1) Lutetia, from Louton-hezi, dwelling of the waters. Sequana, Seine, from Seach, devious, and an, water, river, a derivative of avainn. (2) Parisii, The derivation of this word is not decided. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PARIS* 127 the city was called Lutetia Parisiorum, after the name of the tribe to whom it belonged. A trading company, denomi- nated Nautce Parisiaci, was formed, and the Romans deli- vered to the uncivilised Gauls their first lessons in the arts and sciences. During 500 years that the Romans remained masters of Paris, it was constituted the residence of a prefect, and buildings were constructed on the northern and southern banks. A pa- lace was erected in the Cite for municipal purposes; and an- other upon the south bank of the Seine, remains of which are still to be seen. An arena was formed upon the declivity of the hill of St. Victor, and a cemetery near the spot where the Place St. Michel has since been opened; an aqueduct was con- structed from Chaillot, remains of which were discovered in the last century in the Place Louis XVI. and the Palais Royal ; and a second aqueduct, to convey the waters of Arcueil to the Palais des Thermes. Several of the emperors resided here whilst their armies were engaged in repelling the attacks of the barbarians of the north. Constantine and Constantius vi- sited the capital of the Gauls; Julian passed three winters in it; Valentinian issued several laws here, which are published in his code; and Gratian,his son, lost a battle under its walls, which cost him the empire. According to a legend of the monks of St. Denis, the gospel was first preached at Paris, about the year 250, by St. Denis, the Areopagite, who suffered martyrdom upon the hill of Mont- martre. We are ignorant where the first Christians held their assemblies ; but as early as the reign of Valentinian I. a chapel, dedicated to St. Stephen, was erected upon the spot where Jupiter was worshipped, and where the cathedral of Notre Dame now stands. In the year 406, hordes of barbarians came down, from the north, upon the Roman provinces, which they plundered and laid waste. Gaul suffered greatly from their incursions. In 445, the Sicambres, of the league of the Franks, crossed the Rhine, made themselves masters of the cities situated on its banks, and came from thence to Paris, which they conquered. At their head was Clovis, who, after having married Clotilde, and embraced Christianity, fixed his residence at Paris in 524. This monarch built a church which he dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, but which shortly after was placed under the invocation of $te, Genevieve, who died in his reign. At this 128 IHf RODUCTlON . period the island was surrounded by walls with gates and towers. Childebert built the abbey of St. Germain des Pres and the church of St. Germain-l'Auxerrois. The walls built by Clovis subsisted till the time of Louis VI. (le Gros). This prince, continually exposed to the attacks of the feudal lords, his vassals, determined on protecting the faubourgs on the north and south by a wall, the necessity of which was felt long before, in consequence of the repeated attacks of the Normans. Under the kings of the first or Merovingian race, the arts, laws, and literature, introduced by the Romans into Gaul, fell into decay, and the civilisation of the Parisians retrograded. Few of the princes of the second or Carlovingian dynasty re- sided at Paris. Charlemagne afforded powerful protection to letters and the sciences, and did more for the establishment of the monarchical authority than any of his predecessors ; but, under his feeble successors, Paris became the private patri- mony of hereditary counts. In 845, the Normans, attracted by the riches of the churches and convents, made a descent upon Paris, which they sacked and burned in 857. At length, after several successive attacks, they besieged it in 885. In vain did the Parisians appeal for succour to Charles le Chauve. Their own courage, seconded by the valour of Count Elides, or Odo, compelled the enemy, at the end of two years, to raise the siege. Charles was then deposed, and the crown given to Eudes, in whose family it became hereditary in the person of Hugues Capet, elected king in 987. In the first year of his reign Hugues Capet began the palace which now bears the name of Palais de Justice. The inhabitants likewise erected buildings in all directions ; and so great was the increase of the city that it was divided into four quarters, from whence came the term quartier, to express a division of Paris. At that period, however, the city could not have been very large, as ten men sufficed to collect the taxes. The duties of the north- ern gate, which was situated at the extremity of the rue St. Martin, produced, under Louis le Gros, only 12 fr. a-year (600fr. present money). This monarch rebuilt the Louvre, which existed as early as the time of Dagobert; Bishop Maurice de Sully reconstructed the cathedral of Notre Dame, and the Templars erected a palace upon the spot where the Marche du Temple is situated. Under the early reigns of the third or actual dynasty, many privileges were conferred upon the Pa- risians. A royal preyot was appointed to administer justice HISTORICAL KOTTCE OF PARIS. 129 in the king's name, and a prevot des marchands to watch over the municipal interest. The schools of Paris became celebrated, and in the fourteenth century colleges were founded. The reign of Philip Augustus is remarkable for the edifices with which Paris was embellished. T hat monarch ftuilt several churches, and the chateau of the Louvre, and caused some of the streets to be paved. The inhabitants were commanded, by Philip Augustus, to build round Paris a wall with gates and turrets. On the left bank it began, a little above the Pont des Arts, and taking a circular direction, went northward as far as the rue Grenier St. Lazare, and terminated on theQuai des Ormes. On the right bank the w all began on the quay a little above the spot where the Palais de llnstitut is situated, and, after running southward to the rue des Fosses St. Jacques, took a northerly direction, and terminated at the Quai de la Tournelle. The river was barricadoed by a heavy chain fast- ened to stakes, and supported by boats. Paris then formed three divisions — la Cite, in the centre; la Ville, on the north; and TUniversile, on the south of the river. In 1250, Robert Sorbon founded his schools in the quartier still called de la Sorbonne, which was also named le pays latin. Under St. Louis many vexatious customs were abolished, a better system of jurisprudence introduced, and many religious and commer- cial institutions established. A corps of municipal troops was formed, and a night patrole organised. An hospital for the blind, and a school of surgery, were founded; and, in order to render contracts more binding, a body of notaries was created. Philippe le Hardi adopted a project for the improve- ment of the streets and highways; and Philippe le Bel esta- blished several courts of justice, and formed a body of respect- able magistrates. During the captivity of King John in Eng- land, Paris was agitated by the faction of the Maillotins, headed by Etienne Marcel, prevot des marchands, and instigated by Charles le Mauvais. The Dauphin, who, in alarm, had quitted Paris, collected an army and returned. Marcel was killed by his own partisans; and the Dauphin, after quelling the tumult, punished the ringleaders of the faction. Under Charles V., the faubourgs being much extended and frequently in danger from the incursions of the English, new ditches and walls were begun in 1367, and completed in six- teen years. During this period the Bastille and the Palais des 130 INTRODUCTION. Tournelles were built. Paris was then divided into 16 quar- ters, and contained 1284 acres of ground. In 1384 the Pont St. Michel, and in 1414 the Pont Notre Dame, were erected. The prosperous reign of Charles V. was followed by troubles, and the quarrels of the Bourguignons and Arrnagnacs. Dur- ing the insanity of Charles VI., the capital was occupied by the English, who were driven from it in 1436, after an occu- pation of 16 years. Under Charles VII., and succeeding mo- narchs, it was desolated by famine, the plague, and wolves, to such a degree, that in 1466 the malefactors of all countries were invited to Paris as a place of refuge, with a view to re- people the capital. Notwithstanding the dreadful mortality, the population, under Louis XI., amounted to 300,000 souls, and the space comprised within the walls was 1414 acres. In 1470 printing was introduced, and the post-office established. In the reign of Francis I., who was a friend to literature and the fine arts, Paris assumed a new aspect. The old chateau of the Louvre, an assemblage of towers and heavy walls, was demolished, and a palace begun on its site. Several churches were rebuilt, a royal college for gratuitous instruction in the sciences and learned languages was founded, and communi- cations opened between different parts of the city. In 1533, the Hotel de Ville was begun. Besides a number of streets which were rapidly built and peopled, the Quai de la Tour- nelle was formed in 1552, the Place Maubert in 1558, and the chateau and garden of the Tuileries in 1563. About the same time the arsenal was constructed. To the revival of letters and the fine arts, succeeded the wars of religion and their dreadful consequences. The massacre on St. Bartholomew's day, under Charles IX., brought the royal authority into con- tempt, and alienated the affections of the Parisians from the idea of monarchy to such a degree, that they rebelled against Henry III., and drove him from his capital. His tragical end, in 1589, is well known. Henry IV., having restored peace to the kingdom, occupied himself in plans to promote his subjects' happiness, and embellish his capital. During this reign the Pont Neuf was finished, the hospital of St. Louis was founded ; improvements were made near the arsenal ; the Place Royale and its streets, the Place Dauphine, the rue Dauphine, and the neighbouring quays were also formed. Great additions were made to the palace of the Tuileries ; and the splendid gallery which joins it to the Louvre was constructed. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PARIS, 131 Under the reign of Louis XIII., several new streets were opened ; the Palais Royal and the palace of the Luxembourg were begun ; the Coursla Reine was planted; the aqueduct of Arcueil was rebuilt; the quays and bridges of the Isle St. Louis were constructed; magnificent hotels arose in the fau- bourg St. Germain ; the college which afterwards assumed the name of Louis le Grand, and the Garden of Plants, were founded; statues of Henry IV. and Louis XIII. were erected; and such was the general augmentation of the capital, that the Faubourg St. Honore became united with the villages of Roule and Ville I'tveque, and the Faubourg St. Antoine with the villages of Popincourt and Reuilly. The episcopal see of Paris was also made a metropolitan one in 1622. In the reign of Louis XIV., notwithstanding the long and disastrous wars of the Fronde, the projects of Henry IV. and Louis XIII. were carried into execution. More than eighty new streets were opened, and most of the old ones improved and embellished. The Place Vendome and the Place des Victoires were formed. Thirty-three churches were erected; many of the quays were fenced with stone, and a new one formed; and for the greater convenience of the courts of justice, the building of the grand Chatelet was erected. The magnificent Hotel des Invalides, a foundling hospital, the Observatory, the beautiful colonnade of the Louvre, the Pont Royal, which forms a communication between the Tuileries and the Faubourg St. Germain, and the planting of the Champs Ely sees, were among the embellishments of Paris in the reign of Louis XIV. The palace of the Tuileries was enlarged, and the garden laid out upon its present plan and scale. For the old city gates were substituted triumphal arches, of which those of St. Denis and St. Martin still remain; and the boulevards, which they ornamented, wore formed into an uninterrupted suite of promenades, which contributed equally to the salubrity and beauty of the capital. In this and the preceding reign, the ancient fosses (moats) were filled up, the situation- of which is indicated by the streets that still bear the name of rue des Fosses Montmartre, etc. Louis XV. was not less anxious to embellish the metropolis, which, at his accession to the throne, occupied a space of 3,919 acres. The Faubourgs St. Germain and St. Honore were decorated with sumptuous hotels; the Palais Bourbon was erected; the Ecole Militaire was founded, and the new church 132 INTRODUCTION, of Ste. Genevieve arose on a majestic plan. The Place Louis XV. and its colonnades were begun, the Champs Elysees re- planted, and the Ecole de Medecine erected. The manufac- tory of porcelaine at Sevres was established, and boulevards formed on the south of Paris. Several fountains were erected ; and among them that of the rue de Grenelle, by the celebrated sculptor Bouchardon. Another foundling hospital was esta- blished ; the fronts of St. Sulpice and St. Eustache construct- ed, and the Garden of Plants enlarged and enriched. To arrest the progress of smuggling, the farmers-general of the taxes obtained of Louis XV., in 1784, authority to enclose Paris with an immense wall. The new boulevards, and the villages of Chaillot, le Route, and Mouceaux, were enclosed within the bounds of Paris ; Montmartre would also have been enclosed within the walls, but, upon the warm remon- strances of the abbess of the convent in that village, the pro- ject was abandoned. By this extension of the bounds of Paris, the ground upon which the capital stands was aug- mented to 9,858 acres. The walls are divided by 60 gates, called barrier es, where the octroi or entrance duties are received. These walls form the present inclosure of the French capital. Louis XVI., desirous of completing the embellishments begun by his predecessors, commenced the churches of St. Genevieve and la Madeleine, and built that of St. Philippe du Route and several others. He also repaired the Palais de Justice, and founded or augmented several charitable insti- tutions. The boulevards to the south were adorned with houses and pleasure grounds; and, in the northern faubourgs, habitations, displaying an elegant and varied taste, were erected. The French theatre, the French, Italian, and comic opera-houses, and other theatres, arose in such quick suc- cession, that they seemed as if produced by magic. The old markets were enlarged, and new ones formed. Steam-en- gines were established on the banks of the Seine, for the distribution of water to different quarters of the city ; and the Pont Louis XVI. formed a communication between the Faubourg St. Honore and that of St. Germain. The new walls of Paris, with their barriers like triumphal gates, were finished towards the end of this reign. The galleries of the Palais Royal, furnished with shops of every kind, gave the Parisians an idea of the bazaars of Egypt and Persia; and HISTORICAL NOTICE OF FA1US. 133 the Mont de Piete was instituted in the Marais, with depen- dencies in all parts of Paris. Upon the breaking out of the revolution, many monu- ments of the middle ages were demolished, and the fine arts were threatened with destruction. But under the Di- rectory, the museum of the Louvre was opened, and during the consular and imperial government, Paris assumed more than its former splendour. Grand projects of public utility were adopted, and many were executed with unexampled celerity. The Place du Carrousel was disencumbered of the deformed buildings which arose in front of the Sovereign's palace; the Louvre was completed; the new galleries be- tween that palace and the Tuileries were begun, and the garden of the Tuileries was improved, while the magnificent rue de Rivoli gave it a more striking appearance, and the streets carried through the Place Venddme to the boulevards established a fine communication between that garden and the Chaussee d' Antin : a new and spacious market was formed on the site of the convent des Jacobins, near the rue St. Honore; another near the abbey of St. Martin des Champs, and a third near St. Germain des Pres: three handsome bridges were built, and new quays were formed on each bank of the river. The Canal de l'Ourcq was formed, and, in the basin made at the barrier de la Villette, a junction was effected between it and the Canals of St. Denis and St. Martin, while an ample supply of water was thus afforded to the capital. The Place de la Bastille, intersected by the latter canal, was begun, and near it a vast granary of reserve was constructed. The Bank of France was established in the Hotel de Toulouse, and a magnificent Exchange was begun. Fifteen new fountains were erected in different parts of the city, and several wide streets and spacious markets were opened. The palace and garden of the Luxembourg were improved and enlarged, and the column of the Place Ven- dome was erected. The three great cemeteries were de- finitively fixed without the barriers ; and five public slaugh- ter-houses, called Abattoirs, were constructed at the extre- mities of the faubourgs. The churches of Paris, devastated during the revolution, were repaired and embellished. More than 4,000,000?. sterling were expended on these works and embellishments in the course of twelve years. Louis XYIIL, on being restored to the throne of his ances- 12 134 INTRODUCTION. tors, continued with activity the improvements and embel- lishments of the capital. The new quarters of the town re- ceived great extension ; the canals were completed and opened ; the Chamber of Deputies and three new bridges were con- structed ; several barriers were erected ; statues of the kings were placed in several spots ; a chapel was built in the Temple ; another in the rue d'Anjou, and a third on the site of the French Opera House, where the Duke de Berry was assassi- nated. (1) Several markets and hospitals were finished or enlarged, and the Entrepot des Vins and the Grenier de Re- serve were proceeded with. The streets were made cleaner, their lighting was improved, and immense sums of money were expended upon all parts of the town. Under Charles X. the architectural alterations of Paris were principally of a religious character. The church of St. Ger- main des Pies was repaired and preserved from ruin ; the Madeleine was nearly completed; at Gros Caillou the church of St. Pierre was erected ; other new churches also rose from their foundations; three new bridges were built, and the sta- tues on the Pont Louis XVI. were sculptured and placed in their present position. Many of the Passages that now em- bellish Paris were begun, and the suburbs of the city still continued to increase rapidly. Since the revolution of 1830 the embellishment of the capital has received a new impulse. The garden and palace of the Tuileries have been much altered ; the quays have been some of them widened, and those on the north planted ; and four new bridges have been built. The Madeleine has been finished; the Triumphal Arch at the head of the Champs Elysees has been completed, as well as the magnificent palaces of the Quai d'Orsay and of the Fine Arts. All the public edifices of Paris that stood in need of repair have received it, and many restorations of the monuments of the middle ages are in progress. Besides this, vast works have been under- taken for the drainage of the streets ; gas is about to be used generally throughout the town ; and the health and comfort of the inhabitants seem to be consulted by the improved style of private edifices every where arising. Works of great im- portance are in progress, and more may be expected every year ; the Government leads the way in this march of na- (i) The last-mentioned chapel has since been thrown down, and its site occupied by an elegant public fountain. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PARIS. 135 tional improvement, and what is undertaken by public order is now not only begun, but finished. (1) Palaces.(2)— The kings of France have changed the place of their central residence at almost each of the grand distinctive epochs of the national history. On the cessation of the Roman sway in Gaul, and on the entry of the Franks, the Palais des Thermes was in all probability the residence of the chief ma- gistrate of the country. While the Normans were pursuing their ravages along the banks of the Seine, the King of France kept within the walls of his palace in the island, which served for the nucleus of the city. Of these two early residences of the monarchs of the country hardly anything remains to indicate their size or magnificence. Of the first a Hall of Baths alone exists; but of the second, the Souricieres of the Palais da Justice, and still more, the Sainte Chapelle, may serve to give an idea of the splendour that prevailed in its construction. From the time of St. Louis, Vincennes, the Bastille, and the Old Louvre, became successively the residences of the sove- reign. The two latter have entirely disappeared ; the former, though greatly mutilated, still retains some of its feudal ter- rors as well as magnificence. The new Louvre, or at least the western part of it, may be considered as the oldest of the Parisian palaces still used as royal residences. As a whole, and as an exterior, this is superior in some respects even to Versailles ; and is one of the finest buildings that exist north- ward of the Alps. The Tuileries, or rather the central part of that edifice, comes next in order of antiquity ; and then the eastern part of the Long Gallery that connects this palace (1) It may be interesting to find in a tabular form the area of Paris in hectares at different periods of its existence: — Ante a.d. Hectares. Under Julius Csesar . . 56 38,78 — Julian . , . 375 i5,28 — — Phil. Augustus . .Tan 252,85 Charles VI. . . i383 43p,ao Henr} III. . . i58i 483,6o Louis XIII. . . i634 £67,80 Louis XIV. . . 1686 i,to3,70 Louis XV. . . 1 71 7 1,337,12 Louis XVI. . . 1788 3,370,43 Louis Philippe . , i836 3,45o,oo (2) The reader is referred for the description of all the edifices in this chapter to the arrondissements in which they stand. 136 INTRODUCTION. with that of the Louvre. Without any peculiar architectural merit or beauty, and with very little decoration, the Tuile- ries is nevertheless exceedingly imposing, merely from the extent of its facade and the irregularity of its outline. It has succeeded to the honours of two younger edifices, Versailles and the Palais Royal, by being apparently fixed on as the definitive residence of the king, for which, by its central position, it is so well suited; and in historical associations it rivals, while in scenes of slaughter and mournful recollections it surpasses, the great monument of the age of Louis XIV., Versailles. The palace of the Luxembourg, though no longer the residence of royalty, is still well worthy of being so, and is the best specimen extant of the reign of Louis XIII. Next to this comes the Palais Royal, which has replaced an edifice of nearly the same dale as the preceding one ; and by its side may be mentioned the Palais Bourbon, now appropriated in part to the Chamber of Deputies — both edifices having a strong claim upon the attention of the stranger, as having been so long the respective residences of the families of Or- leans and Conde. To close the list of Parisian palaces, the Palais de VElysee Bourbon must not be omitted, the smallest, but by no means the least interesting of the royal mansions. If to this list of royal residences be added that of the chateaux belonging to the crown in the immediate neighbourhood of Paris, as they existed previously to the great Revolution, Versailles, Les Trianons, Marly, St. Germain's, Compiegne, Choisy, Fontainebleau, Sceaux, Meudon, and St. Cloud, or even as they are at the present day, the magnificence of the ancient court of France will in some degree be understood. Churches. — Of these St. Germain des Pres is the most valuable relic of the Romanesque style of architecture now remaining in Paris. Of the Early Pointed style Notre Dame is the great type ; and both for its size and the many historical recollections associated with it, the cathedral church of Paris is at the same time the first in every respect. (1) There are hardly any specimens of the Flamboyant style remaining among the churches of the metropolis: St. Severin and St. Germain l'Auxerrois belong to the middle period of this style (?) Other ecclesiastical buildings of the same style still exist in line preservation ; the principal of which are the Sainte Chapelle and the Church and Refectory of the Abbey of St. Martin des Champs, HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PARIS. 137 (1400—1500); St. Gervais and St.Merri, with the tower of St. Jacques de la Roucherie, (1) to the latter period (1500 — 1550). The style of the Renaissance des Arts has a most magnificent and perfect example in St. Eustache, and a curious one in St. Etienne du Mont. Of the churches built in the Italian or Palladian style, the earliest is St. Paid et St. Louis, which at the same time is one of the most beautiful erections of the reign of Louis XIII. The age of Louis XVI. has its eccle- siastical architecture represented by the church and dome of the Val de Grace, and by the churches and dome of the Invalides ; the latter being of its kind the chef-d'oeuvre of that magnificent epoch. The church of St. Sulpice is the only large specimen of the taste of church architects in the reign of Louis XV. The Pantheon may be quoted as an honourable specimen of the knowledge of French architects in the reign of Louis XVI. ; though from all its associations it belongs just as much to the times of the Revolution and the Republic. The era of the em- pire produced the designs for the Madeleine; the honour of finishing which belongs in some slight degree to the Restoration, but more peculiarly to the present day. It is a splendid revi- val of the Roman style of the 1st and 2d centuries, and may rival Notre Dame in exciting an architect's admiration. With re- gard to the accessory decorations of pictures, sacred utensils, etc., the splendid paintings of the dome of the Invalides, and the pictures and altars of Notre Dame and St. Etienne du Mont, with the pictures of St. Marguerite and St. Nicolas des Champs, are particularly to be noticed. The interiors of the Madeleine and Notre Dame de Lorette are not yet finished ; but their walls are being painted by the ablest artists of the day, and promise to be very splendid. The Parisian churches are remarkably poor in monuments and sculpture of any kind ; this is to be attributed to the fanatical fury of the Revo- lution ; and, with the exception of Notre Dame, La Sorbonne, St. Gervais, and St. Sulpice, they contain hardly anything of this kind worthy of notice. The churches of St. Roch and St. Eustache are celebrated for the excellence of their music, and on days of great festi- vals there is much difficulty experienced in entering the for- mer of these churches. Notre Dame, St. Sulpice, and St. Eti- enne du Mont, are also much frequented on festivals and Sundays. All the Catholic places of worship in Paris are (i) Only the tower remains. 12. 138 INTRODUCTION". open from an early hour in the morning till 5 or 6 o'clock in the evening of every day ; on Sundays and festivals, persons using chairs pay for them, generally at the rate of 2 sous a chair. Round the door- way of each church there will mostly be found some indigent women, and other necessitous per- sons, upon whom the visitors may well bestow a sou without having to regret it. It may be added that the behaviour of the Parisian congregations is highly decorous, and that the offices of the Catholic church are performed with the greatest order and zeal by the highly respectable body of the metro- politan clergy. The same observation may be applied, in- deed, to the places of worship occupied by persons of other religious denominations. The Episcopal Church in particular is commonly so much thronged, that seats are with difficulty to be procured. It has been erected, in great part, at the ex- pense of the present excellent Bishop. By an arrangement with the French government, all places in France where divine worship is performed according to the rites of the Church of England, are placed under the direction of the Bri- tish consuls, subject to the controul of the Ambassador. (1) Public Buildings. — The localities of nearly all the public offices have already been indicated in the preceding chapters. The Hotels of the Ministers are in general splendid residences, and contain all the bureaux, offices, etc., connected with the functions of each ministerial department. The Hotel of the Minister of Finance is the largest, and is situated the nearest to the Tuileries ; the others are mostly in the Faubourg St. Germain, or in the Place Vendome, and one on the Boulevard des Capucines. To each a corps de garde of infantry is at- tached ; but at the Hotel des Finances the duty is performed by the National Guards. Of the residences of the Foreign Ministers, by far the largest and most sumptuous is that of the British Ambassador. The principal of the municipal buildings of Paris is the Hotel de Ville, where the prefect of the department resides, where several offices dependent upon him are kept, councils held, and public meetings for various purposes summoned. It is the centre of the municipal jurisdiction of the depart- ment : in the same way as the Prefecture of Police combines (?) For the hours of service in the Protestant churches, see Stranger's Diary* HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PARIS. 139 all the offices connected with the duties of the head of that branch of the public force. The Palais de Justice unites within its precincts the su- preme civil court of the kingdom, La Cour de Cassation, the Royal Court, the Tribunal de Premiere Instance, and the Tribunal de Police Municipale ; the Tribunal of Commerce being placed at the Exchange. The Cour des Comptes may also be considered as an adjunct of the Palais de Justice. The dispatch of public business is very greatly facilitated by this concentration of the legal business of the district and of the country. The Parisian barristers, however, do not have their chambers in the immediate neighbourhood of the courts ; and no law societies were ever formed in Paris of the same nature as those of London. The only approximation that took place to such a system was in the times of the ancient Parlement of France before the Revolution ; when the first president of that body resided in the Palais de Justice, and the other mem- bers of it in the lie St. Louis, or the quartier du Marais. At present many advocates and judges reside not far from the Palais de Justice; but still there is no fixed place of abode for them as a professional body. The courts are in general commodious, though still requiring more space to accommo- date the numerous auditories with which they are sometimes thronged. Of the other public offices, such as the Mint, or Hotel des Monnaies, the Pvecord-office, or Hotel des Archives, the Royal Printing-Ofjice, etc., it may be observed that they are in ge- neral well adapted to the purpose which they are meant to serve ; but that they are not concentrated, and that some of them, particularly the two last named, lie in a very incon- venient part of the town, far from the central current of af- fairs. This remark holds still more true with regard to the principal commercial buildings of Paris. The Exchange forms the centre of the movement of the population ; and the Bank and Post-office are not very far removed from it ; but all of them are far from the river, and from the large ware- houses where most of the mercantile stores are kept. Thus the Depots of the Custom House lie wide from the centre of Paris ; and the Halle aux Vins, with the Flour Depot, are at one extremity of the town. Some of the principal bankers have their houses in the vicinity of the Exchange; but the bulkier commerce of the capital finds no accommodation in 140 INTRODUCTION. the centre of business. The markets have but little external decoration to boast of in Paris ; and though for purposes of wholesale trade they are collected round the central Hallcs in a convenient manner, district markets, better built and better kept, are to be found in the various quarters of the town. Of the commercial buildings, the Exchange is the most remarkable, and best worthy of the stranger's immediate attention ; while, of the erections for purposes of sale, the Halle aux Vins and the Grenier de Reserve arc the largest and the most important. The edifices connected with the literature and science of the country and the metropolis, are mostly on the southern side of the river, situated w ithin, or grouped around, the limits of the ancient University. The Observatory is at almost the extreme point of Paris, to the south ; and round the Pantheon, besides the numerous conventual buildings that formerly stood there, and of which many still remain, there are towards the south and east, the three British colleges; to the north and west, the buildings of the old University, now occupied by the Ecole Poly technique, and some of the Royal Colleges. The Sorbonne is placed a little lower down, between the rues St. Jacques and La Harpe, and is in the immediate neighbour- hood of the Ecole de Me'decine, with its dependencies. The University, in former days, presented a broad front to the river, and at this time the corps d' elite of all the science and literature of the country, united in the Institute, have their place of meeting at that spot where the ancient College des Quatre Nations looks to the Palais des Beaux Arts on the west, and to the Louvre with its museums on the north* Of the buildings thus enumerated, the most striking on many ac- counts is the Sorbonne : the other colleges are interesting as edifices, more for what they were than what they are, with the exception of the Ecole de Medecine and the Palais de Vln- stilut; the latter of which, however, is hardly w orthy of the illustrious body to whose use it is appropriated. The great establishment of the Mr din des Plantes lies out of the noise and traffic of the town, and is a world within itself; the ar- chitectural interest, which it has not hitherto possessed, is at length given to it, in the additions to its museums effected by a Government grant in 1835-6. Almost the only great lite- rary establishment that lies at a distance from the rest, and on the northern side of the river, is the Bibliotheque du Roi f ruede Richelieu, close by the Exchange. The anomaly of this HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PARIS. 141 position, which is inconveniently felt by all the studious part of the community, is however, likely to be removed in the course of a few years. The present buildings, in which the precious and immense collection of this library is placed, are by no means worthy of their contents : and in general it may be ob- served of all the literary and scientific institutions of Paris, that greater attention seems to have been paid to their forma- tion and to their extension, than to the lodging them magni- ficently. This is in part to be attributed to the sudden in- crease which most of them received at the time of the Revo- lution, and to the difficulty afterwards experienced of devot- ing to them the funds necessary for placing them in suitable buildings. The edifices, however, with which they are con- nected, and the relics of the once large and powerful Univer- sity of Paris, with its 30 colleges, all of which are still disco- verable, present a subject of high interest to the antiquary. There are certain buildings in Paris that are purely orna- mental, such as the triumphal columns and arches ; their de- scriptions will be found given in ample detail, and, as they are not numerous, it is sufficient in this place to point out the Arc de Triomphe del'Etoile, and the Column of the Place Venddme, as the two objects at once the greatest and the most interesting. Other buildings, intended for public use, as well as for the embellishment of the capital, are the numerous bridges that cross the Seine : they are spoken of where the river is described. The fountains also, that are indispensable, at the same time that they add to the decoration of the streets and public places, comprise some beautiful specimens of modern French art. The Fountain of the Lions, or the Chateau d'Eau, on the Boulevard St. Martin, is one of the latest and best that has been erected : that of the Place du Chatelet, called the Fon- taine des Palmiers, is also to be ranked amongst the best : but the largest and most sumptuous is that of the Rue de Grenelle, a costly construction of the time and style of Louis XV. The charitable institutions of Paris have inherited much of their architectural wealth from the conventual establishments which many of them have replaced. Great size and massive strength are, however, the prevailing characteristics of these buildings. The Hotel Dieu possesses no architectural beauty ; the hospital of the Salpetriere is the most remarkable for its buildings as well as for its extent; and with these two may INTRODUCTION. well be classed the Bopital St. Louis, a picturesque edifice of the time of Henry IV. After these should be named Bicetre, which, although not within the walls of the town, is yet so es- sentially an institution of Paris, that it may be called one of the Parisian hospitals. The manner in which these edifices are maintained, by public as well as private funds, is highly to the honour of the nation, and the Government. The two great charitable institutions, among several others, intended for the service of the army, are not less interesting for the edifices in which they are seated, than for their wide and lasting utility. The military hospital of the Val de Grace is placed in what was once the most richly-adorned convent of Paris; and the Hotel des Invalides, which does not exactly come within the class of hospitals, will be found on the whole to be a splendid as w ell as enormous pile of building. Next to the military hospitals rank the casernes, or military barracks, as edifices which are entitled to attention for their size, and sometimes their magnificence. Paris is indebted for them to Marshal Biron, who had most of them erected about the year 1780: there are not fewer than 36 that will fre- quently meet the eye of the stranger in his walks through Paris. The first is a monument of the time of Louis XV., the Ecole MUilaire, in the Champ de Mars, which is one of the most elegant buildings produced during that reign. The others will be found in the following localities : on the Quai d'Orsay; at the ancient convent de Panthemont, 106, rue de Grenclle; the convent of the Assumption, rue Neuve du Luxembourg; 23, rue Babylone ; the monastery of the Celes- tins, 4, Quai Morland; Grille Chaillot ; 6, rue de Clichy ; 128, rue de Grenelle ; 22, rue de la Pepiniere; 32, rue Verte ; rue de Vaugirard ; Barriere St. Martin ; 12, rue des Francs Bourgeois; rue du Faubourg St. Martin ; 6, rue de la Chausseedes Minimes; rue Mouffetard; Hotel d'Orleans; 10, rue de Tournon ; rue Culture Ste. Catherine; rue de la Paix ; 15, rue du Vieux Colombier ; Quai des Orfevres ; the College de Montaigne; rue des SeptVoies; Place St. Michel; 4, rue du Jardin du Roi ; the House of the Petits Peres, rue Notre Dame des Victoires ; 11, rue de la Corderie St. Jacques ; Place de l'Estrapade; 24, rue des Barres; 72, rue du Faubourg du Temple ; 16, rue du Foin St. Jacques ; rue Neuve Ste. Gene- vieve; 62, rue del'Oursine; 76, rue du Faubourg Poisson- niere ; 51, rue Popincourt. HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PARIS. 143 As a class of public edifices at Paris which may be placed entirely by themselves we may mention the Barriers. The extensive introduction of contraband goods into the capU in the reign of Louis XVI. induced the farmers-general o the king's revenue to solicit permission to construct walls round Paris, considerably beyond the extent of any preceding enclosure. The king's consent was given by an ordonnance of January 13, 1783, and the works on the southern side were begun in May following. Upon the completion of this en- closure the wall was commenced on the north, and extended round the villages of Chaillot and Roule. The prodigal mi- nister Calonne charged M. Ledoux with the construction of elegant edifices for the collectors of the revenue at the barriers, in order that the entrances into Paris might impress strangers wilh an idea of its magnificence. Calonne was dismissed from the cabinet in 1787, and in September of the same year the works were suspended by an order in council. On 1st May, 1791, the entrance duties were abolished, in consequence of which the barriers became useless. Under the Directory, about the year 5, a small duty was levied, and the barriers were repaired. The product of this duty being given to the hospitals, it took the name of octroi de bienfaisance. During Napoleon's reign the walls were finished, and the duty at the barriers considerably augmented. In 1817, the enclosure on the south was prolonged, in order to include the Abattoir d'lvry, the Hopital de la Salpetriere, and two hamlets. The total extent of this inclosure is 26,778 yards, and comprises 50 gates or barriers, bearing different names. At the eastern and western extremities of the barriers, boats, called pataches, are stationed upon the river to collect the duties upon the goods entering the capital by water. We would recommend the traveller to make the tour of the barriers. Of those most entitled to notice we shall give a brief description. Hitherto the opening between many of the bureaux d'octroi at the barriers has been filled up with miserable wooden fences, but it has been determined to replace them by iron gates, and the project has in many instances been carried into execution. The Barriere de Neuilly is composed of two elegant pavilions and a handsome iron railing, beyond which rises the triumphal arch de TEtoile. — The Barriere du Trone, or de Vincennes, consists of two spacious symmetrical ,pavilions, and two columns seventy feet in height. — The Barriere Saint Martin 144 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENX, presents the form of a temple, and is upon the same axis as the basin de la Villette. This edifice has been transformed into barracks for gendarmes, and two small pavilions built for the officers of the octroi duties. — The Bar Here de Fontainebleau or d'ltalie, consists of two symmetrical buildings, ornamented with a Doric entablature. — The Barrier e de Reuilly is a ro- tunda of brick, surrounded by a peristyle of twenty-four columns bearing arcades. — The Barriere de la Chopinette pre- sents, in a facade, a semicircular portico surrounded by six Doric columns. — The Barriere deChartres is in the form of a circular temple, with a portico of sixteen columns. — The* Barriere de Passy is richly decorated with sculpture ; to the right and left of the building is an iron railing connected by pedestals, supporting colossal figures of Brittany and Nor- mandy.— The Barriere de I'Ecole MMtaire consists of two buildings, which have no other opening than a porch in the form of a niche. There are two kinds of public buildings, Theatres, and Prisons, which we reserve for description elsewhere. Private Edifices. — The oldest parts of Paris, in the im- mediate neighbourhood of Notre Dame, and on the banks of the Seine facing the He de la Cite, still contain many houses that belonged to the bourgeoisie of the 13th and 14th cen- turies. The most remarkable of the mansions of the nobility of the middle ages in Paris are to be found in the Hotel de Sens, the Hotel de la Tremouille, and the Hotel de Cluny; the arrangement of which will give a perfect idea of noble residences in the 15th and 16th centuries. For the times of Henry IV., the Hotel de Larnoignon, the Hotel de Sully, and the Hotel de Carnavalet, may be quoted as fine specimens of the Italian taste that prevailed throughout France at that pe- riod. No considerable change in domestic architecture tool* place till the time of Louis XIV., when the magnificence of the monarch became communicated to his court, and when the increased splendour of the nobility, added to the system of etiquette established at that time, produced the erection of many of the more ancient hotels of the Faubourg St. Ger- main. The grand mansions of that quarter are still the heau-ideal of a nobleman's hotel, and their magnificence has never since been equalled. The streets that lead out of the rue du Bac will all give numerous specimens of houses of that time. Nearly alt the other mansions of that part of the PALACE OF THE TITILE1UES. 145 town date from the reign of Louis XV., or the early part of his unfortunate successor's reign ; when, though great size and elegance were still the characteristics of the architecture of the day, the massive grandeur of Louis XIV. was no longer produced. A check was given to all private architectural ex- cellence at the Revolution, from which it has hardly yet re- covered ; and the taste of the 19th century lay dormant in Paris till within the last few years, when it has again sprung up, not so much to adorn the residences of the noble or the wealthy, as to improve the shops and maisons bourgeoises of the capital. The new streets in the neighbourhood of the Bourse, the Boulevards, and the Champs &lysees are full of instances that may be appealed to. Notices of some of the most remarkable of the hotels and great mansions of Paris will be found in the descriptions of the arrondissements where they occur. <&h*tytev 1. DESCRIPTION OF PARIS BY ARRONDISSEMENTS. FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. [It should be premised that, since the Palaces of the Tuileries and the Louvre, with the Palais Royal, are three of the most interesting objects of the Capital, and are almost always the first edifices which strangers are anxious to see, they are placet? at the head of this Arrondissement, although the first only it situated within it. A farther convenience attends this arrange- ment, that from their position the visitor may walk from the one almost immediately into the other.] The Palace of the Tuileries. — Where this royal chateau now stands there were in the time of Charles VI. , 1416, only some tile-fields, that had furnished Paris for four centuries, and a place for throwing carrion and rubbish, beyond the ditches of the Chateau du Louvre.(l) In 1518, Farncis I. pui- chased a house erected there by Desessarls and de Villeroi, and belonging to Nicholas de Neuville, which he presented to his (i) The foundations of the old tile-kilns were discovered in some excavations made in i83G. 13 146 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. mother, Louise de Savoie, who found the air of the royal residence, the Palais des Tournelles in the Marais, unwhole- some. In 1525 this princess gave the Hotel des Tuileries to Jean Tiercelin, maitre-d' hotel to the Dauphin; but having become the property of Catherine de Medicis, that queen had the present edifice begun as a residence for herself in 1564. Philibert Delorme and Jean Bullant were the architects, and the parts erected by them were the central pavilion, the two adjoining wings, and the low pavilions by which they are terminated. Here her work stopped, since she was alarmed by an astrological prediction bidding her beware of St. Ger- main ; and the Tuileries being in the parish of that Saint of Auxerrois, the palace was not at that time continued. Dur- ing the reign of Henry IV. the palace was enlarged by the architects Ducerceau and Duperac, who raised two other ranges of building faced with large Corinthian pilasters, and erected the lofty pavilions at each end. This king also began the long gallery that joins the Louvre to this pa- lace ; and the works suspended by his death were carried on and terminated under Louis XIII. Louis XIV. ordered the architects Levau and d'Orbay to harmonize the whole, which was still very discordant in its parts; in consequence of this an attic was added to the central buildings, and the spiral staircase, which filled the lower part of the central pavilion, was removed, although it was reckoned a chef d'ceuvre of the kind. Since then few additions have been made to the actual building of the Tuileries, notwithstanding the changes that have taken place in others dependent upon them. Napoleon, how- ever, began in 1808 the northern gallery, to serve as a com- munication with the Louvre in that direction ; and some considerable improvements have been introduced into the internal arrangements of the palace, as well as in the garden front, by Louis Philippe. The extreme length of the facade is 336 yards, its breadth 36. The general style of the architec- ture cannot be classed strictly under any precise denomination ; the earlier parts of it may be taken as a good specimen of the revived Italian style of the 16th century, and the work of Henry IV. as the best piece of architecture of his day remain . ing in Paris. The visitor should carefully compare th Tuileries with a coeval building, the Church of St. Eustache in order to have a good idea of the style and taste of the time. The columns that occur on the lower storey of the central PALACE OF THE TUILERIES. 14? parts of Ibe palace are of the Ionic order ; those of the second of the Corinthian ; of the third Composite: all adapted to the style of the epoch, and the Ionic ones bearing bands and other sculptured ornaments prevalent in the buildings of that date. The ranges of building on each side of the Pavilion da VHorloge consisted originally of a long gallery to the south, and the grand staircase to the north, erected in the room of a similar gallery in the time of Louis XIV. Towards the garden on the ground floor, vaulted arcades extended in front of these galleries from the central pavilion to the two middle ones, forming terraces on the top. Only one of these terraces now remains, the southern one ; the other has been replaced by a new staircase lately erected, and the remaining one will, in course of time, be converted into a new gallery. The general effect of the Tuileries is exceedingly grand, more from its great length and varied outline, than from any excellence of detail. The garden front is the best, . being more relieved by projecting and retiring masses, casting a deep shade, than that towards the court. The end pavilions arc remarkable for their lofty windows, and still more unusually lofty roofs and chimneys ; the latter of which are excellent examples of architectural boldness, converting a useful but unsightly appendage of a house into an ornamental object. That to- wards the south is called the Pavilion de Flore, that towards the north the Pavilion Mars an, Before giving a description of the interior of this palace, it will be necessary to allude to the monarchs by whom it has been successively tenanted. Catherine de Medici s quilted it for the Hotel de Soissons ; and no monarch after Charles IX. resided in it, till Louis XIII., who made it the palace of the capital. Louis XIV. dwelt here until the building of Versailles, when the court entirely for- sook Paris. It was afterwards used by the Regent Duke of Orleans, during the minority of Louis XV. ; but from that period to the forcible return of Louis XVI. in 1791 it was tenanted by the families of persons officially attached to the court. This latter circumstance has occasioned the formation of a vast number of small apartments and entresols through- out the palace, and particularly in the two great pavilions. It is needless to go into the historical recollections that are connected with this palace during the time of the Revolution, the history of that period having the Tuileries inscribed on almost every page ; but it will be sufficient to allude to the 14£ FIRST ARHONDISSEMENT. irruption of the mob on the 20th June, 1792, and to the attack of the palace, with the massacre of the Swiss guards, on the 10th August of the same year. It was the official residence of Napoleon, and since his days has remained the chief abode of the King and Royal Family for the time being. Interior. — The entrance to the King's private and public apartments is by the old staircase of the Pavilion de Flore. On the ground floor of the middle pavilion to the south are the private apartments of the King, part of which formed the private apartments of Marie Antoinette : they are not shown to visitors. The ground floor of the palace between this pa- vilion and the Pavilion de Flore is occupied by those of the Queen and Princesses. The Pavilion de Flore itself is also devoted to the lodging of the younger Princes and their suites. All this part of the palace is kept private. The Pavilion Marsan at the northern end, with part of the lateral gallery called the New Gallery of the Louvre, is occupied by the Duke of Orleans and his household, and is not shown to the public. The remainder of the ground floor of the main body of the palace, with its entresols, is filled with the apartments of attendants, corridors, the escalier d'honneur, the chapel, etc. The staircase of the Pavilion de Flore leads on the first-floor to the state apartments. Those which are first entered are on the side next the garden, and occur in the following order. The Salle des Trophees, formerly the Salle des Gardes, in the time of Charles X.; it is a plain room, leading to the Salle du Conseil, which is a handsome apartment hung with red silk. This room contains some admirable paintings by the best modern Parisian artists, including the works of Isabey, Gra- net, Mercey, Ouvrie, Turpin, etc. Beyond this is the Salon Bleu, so called from the silk hangings of its walls. In it are the Mazeppa of Horace Vernet, and some interiors by Bouton, Forbin, etc. Next comes the Private Library ; and then the King's Closet, with a bath-room attached; all these apartments had nearly the same destination under Louis XVill. and Charles X, Their ceilings and gilding have hardly been touched since the time of Louis XVI ; and are not remarkable for any peculiar elegance of ornament. The King's Closet serves as an ante-room to the Salle de Famille, a large square room, rather low, and fitted up with blue silk. The furniture is quite plain in this apartment, which now seryes as a salle de reunion to the royal family every Palace of the tuileries. 149 evening. This was the bed-room of Louis XVL Another apartment leads out of this, and is now converted into a billiard-room ; it was formerly the apartment of the gentle- man in waiting on the king. From this a door leads on to the terrace that extends to the Pavilion de FHorloge, and a promenade may thus be enjoyed by the royal family, without descending into the garden. The rooms just described con- tain several precious works of ancient and modern art : some jewelled vases from the treasury of the ancient abbey of St. Denis ; an inestimable box of ebony covered with solid gold exquisitely sculptured, given by Cardinal Mazarin to Louis XIV. ; some curious clocks, cabinets, etc. ; — but in point of size and decoration they are not equal to the saloons of many of the nobility of Paris. Behind these apartments on the side towards the court of the palace is the Galerie de Diane, a fine apartment of the time of Louis XIII. , the ceiling of which is richly gilt and painted with copies of the Italian schools. The panels were all filled with good paintings of French artists, but they are now removed. This gallery is used as the state dining-room, and leads into the old Salle du Gonseil, a large and richly-gilt room, containing a very fine piece of modern tapestry, representing the presentation of Philip V. by Louis XIV. to the Grandees of Spain. From this the visitor enters the Salle du Trone, a large apartment hung in red and gold, with a throne and canopy of crimson velvet. The Salon des Nobles and the Salon de la Paix lead successively towards the central pavilion. All the apartments on this side of the palace are lighted by a profusion of very magnificent chan- deliers, containing an immense number of lamps and wax tapers. They also contain some fine cabinets in tortoiseshell, and other valuable materials of the time of Louis XIV., some antique cameos of great size and value, and some splendid vases both in marble and porcelaine. The central Pavilion de VHorloge forms one vast saloon or hall, called the Salle des Marechaux. It occupies two storeys ; under the windows of the upper are a bold projecting cornice and gallery, which towards the garden are supported by four cariatides, copied from those by Jean Goujon in the Louvre. The walls of this saloon contain in compartments the portraits of the living Marshals of France ; among them will be observed those of Soult, Moncey, Molitor, Grouchy, Gerard, etc. Busts of distinguished Generals are also placed round the room, This 13. 150 FIRST ARttONDISSEMENT. apartment is used as the ball-room upon state occasions, and the blaze of light which it then displays is exceedingly dazzling, From the Salle des Marechaux a door communicates on the garden side with a small and elegant apartment, lately con- structed, which leads to a corridor running round the top of the escalier d'honneur. This magnificent staircase, ascend- ing under arcades supported by Corinthian columns, requires width to give it a due proportion to its length. The balus- trades are in bronze and polished steel, and the stone work is richly sculptured. The Galerie Louis Philippe leads out of the Salle des Marechaux on the side next the court, occu- pying the upper part of the ancient staircase. This apart- ment, which serves as a ball-room, is lighted only on the eastern side, w hile on the western it has the panels, correspond- ing to the opposite windows, filled with immense mirrors, 18 ft. by 7, in solid slabs. Here at the southern end is placed the silver statue of Peace, voted to Napoleon by the city of Paris after the Peace of Amiens : it stands between two marble columns, supporting antique busts. On the western side is an equestrian bas-relief of Louis Philippe. At the northern end are two fine statues of the Chancellors FHopilal and d'Aguesseau. On the western side of this gallery a door communicates with the royal gallery in the Chapel. The room consecrated to this purpose occupies the ground floor and the storey above : a gallery runs round three sides, and the orchestra is placed over the high altar, which stands at the northern end. It is quite plain, having the gallery and roof supported by Doric columns in stone and stucco. At the northern end of the Galerie Louis Philippe is the Salle des Travees, once the Salle des Cent Suisses. This leads to the Theatre, a long and elegant saloon, fitted up in an elliptical form, with two galleries and a parterre. It is now used as a banqueting-room. Some ante-rooms conduct to a staircase leading down between the chapel and the theatre to the Court near the Pavilion Marsan. All the apartments on the side of the Court open one into the other in a straight line, and the visitor standing at either end, and looking along them, will have a magnificent coup d'ceil of the whole extent of the palace. The interior of the palace has been much embellished by the present King ; the ceilings are all to be repaired and cleaned, the gilding restored and increased ; and the Tuileries will probably assume a style of splendour which it never before GARDEN OF THE TUILERIES. 151 possessed. For permission lo see the interior of the palace, application must be made to M. Le Gouverneur du Palais des Tuileries ; but in general it may be said that it cannot be ob- tained, except when the King is at St. Cloud, Fonlaincbleau, or Eu. Garden of the Tuileries. — A street, called the rue des Tuileries, formerly passed between the palace and the garden ; but in 1665, the celebrated Le Notre was entrusted by Louis XIV. with the care of laying out the garden, and it was then planted and arranged nearly in the same state in which it is seen at the present day. Two parallel terraces on the north and south run from the extreme pavilions of the palace ; on the western side they approach each other, and, forming cir- cular slopes, sink lo the level of the garden. The total area so inclosed is about 67 acres; its length is 2,256 ft., and its width 900 ft. The terrace to the south is the more elevated and the wider of the two ; it was formerly appropriated as the private walk of the royal family ; from it the best view of the Seine and of the palace is to be obtained. That on the north is known as the Terrasse des Feuillans, so called from a convent that abutted against it before the Revolution. Near it was the manege, or riding-school, where the National As- sembly held its sittings, and in those days it was decided to be national property. A handsome iron railing, with gilt spear-heads, separates it from the rue do Rivoli. The inter- mediate space of the garden between these terraces is laid out in the following manner. A broad avenue leads from the Pavilion de lTIorloge down to the western entrance of the garden, where it joins apparently the great road of the Champs Elysees, and seems to continue up to the Triumphal Arch at the Barriere de l'Etoile. immediately in front of the palace two flower-gardens have been formed within the last few years, separated from the broad walk that intervenes between them and the rest of the garden by fosses, planted and edged with iron railings. These were intended to afford the royal family the means of walking without being incommoded by the crowd. A large portion of the garden then succeeds, laid out in the style of Louis XIV., which, though stiff, ac- quires an air of grandeur from the size of the parterres. Three circular basins, and numerous groups of statues, are inter- spersed throughout this part of the garden. To the west is the grove divided by the long avenue before mentioned : it is 152 FIRST ARRON&ISSEMENT , filled with fine-grown chestnut trees, elms, and limes; it forms an impenetrable shade in summer, and by its dark and solid mass of foliage affords a bold contrast to the gayer beauties of the flower garden. West of the grove is a large circular basin of water, between the horse-shoe termination of the lateral terraces, and some smaller parterres. North of the grove and flower garden, between them and the Ter- rasse des Feuillans, is the Alice des Grangers, so called from a fine collection of orange trees placed here every summer. This alley with the adjoining terrace is the most fashionable promenade of Paris, both in summer and winter; during the sunny hours of the latter, and in the cool evenings of the former season, all the gayest of the gay world of the capital are to be found here ; some seated on the chairs, which are let out at two sous a-piece, the major part walking and lounging with their friends. On Sunday afternoons, the crowd, though not so select, is much more numerous, and the orange alley frequently forms a compact mass, presenting every variety and colour of dress adopted for the moment by the fickle taste of the Parisians. The garden of the Tuileries is also the favourite rendezvous of children and elderly people of both sexes, the former of whom come there for exercise and air, the latter for repose and warmth. The parterres and wall of the northern terrace at the western end have a southern exposure, and, being completely shel- tered on all sides, are the warmest part of the garden. Here children and old people swarm like bees on a sunny day ; and to this spot has been given the appropriate name of La Petite Provence. At this western end of the garden is a wide entrance with iron gates. Before the Revolution a pont-tournant, or swing-bridge, which could be removed at pleasure > communicated over the fosse, which still exists, with the Place Louis XV. It was a spot famous in the Revo- lution. The terraces are here occupied by little bosquets, and the views from thence of the Champs Elysees, and of Passy, with the Place de la Concorde and the river, are very striking. There is a great deal of good sculpture in the garden of the Tuileries that deserves examination. The figures of Mercury and Fame, on winged horses, at the west- ern entrance, are by Coysevox, and are spirited groups. Round the principal basin at this end of the garden are four groupes of Rivers, by Bourdou, Coustou, and Vancleve, all GARDEN OF THE TUILERIES. 153 of great merit. The grove contains many allegorical figures and copies from the antique, some of which are very beauti- ful, In the flower garden, at the corners of parterres sur- rounding the central basin, are large groupes representing subjects of Grecian fable, which produce a good effect, and are of the time of Louis XV. and Louis XVI. At the extremi- ties of a wide transversal alley, intersected by this basin, there are, on the side next the Allee des Grangers, Theseus killing the Minotaur, by Somuiariva, and Prometheus bound to the rock, by Pradier. On the side next the Seine are Alexander at the Granicus, by Devaismes, and the Soldier of Mara- thon, by Cortot. At each end of the Allee des Grangers are copies from the antique. Along the wide walk that inter- venes between the flower garden and the palace garden there are, at the corner of parterres, statues of Spartacus and Cincinnatus, by Foyatier; a Phidias, by Pradier; a La- bourer, and a Themistocles by Lemaire ; and a Pericles, by Debay. Opposite to them are elegant and pleasing figures of Diana, Flora, Venus, and a Nymph, by Goustou and Coyscvox, giving excellent examples of the style of the times of Louis XV. The palace garden contains some good bronzes from the antique ; the two principal of which are the Knife-grinder, and the Venus Pudica, cast by Keller. Some fine vases in marble, two figures of a faun playing on the flute, and a huntsman with his dog, of the time of Louis XV., arc worthy of notice. The running figures of Hippomenes and Atalanta have been often modelled. The terrace to the south has lately been adorned with a group in bronze of a Lion and a Serpent, by Barye. From the great size of this garden, the white marble of the statues produces a light and pleasing effect contrasted with the flowers or the foliage of the trees. Great care is taken in keeping the garden clean: persons in working habits or carrying any parcels, except books, are not allowed to enter it. The gardens are opened from 7 in the morning till dusk in winter, and till 9 in summer; and while the royal family are resident in the palace, bands of the different regiments play before the Pavilion de l llorloge every afternoon. The gardens at the time of their closing are always cleared by beat of drum, and a company of soldiers. The Court of the Tuileries on the east side of the palace was formed principally by Napoleon. It is separated from the FIRST ARRONDTSSEMENT. Place du Carrousel by a handsome iron railing, with gilt spear- heads, extending parallel to the whole length of the palace. There are three gateways opening from this court into the Place du Carrousel, the middle one of which corresponds to the central pavilion of the palace ; the other two have their pillars surmounted by colossal figures of Victory, Peace, His- tory, and France. A gateway under each of the lateral galle- ries communicates on the north with the rue de Rivoli, on the south with the Qnai du Louvre. It was at the inner corner of the latter, that the assassin Alibaud posted himself on the 25th June 1836, when he fired on King Louis Phi- lippe, Where the iron rails now stand, there were rows of small houses and sheds before the Revolution ; and this cir- cumstance materially facilitated the attack on the palace by the mob, on the 10th August 1792. Napoleon used to re- view his troops in this vast court; and the National Guards, and troops, who mount guard at the Tuileries, are inspected here every morning. The Place dd Carrousel derives its name from a great tournament held here by Louis XIV. in 1662 ; but has only attained its present size of late years. All the houses now remaining on it between the Tuileries and the Louvre are to be taken down, when the northern gallery communicating between the two palaces is finished. The eastern part cf it was occupied by numerous small streets and houses till very lately. Among them was in former times the hotel of the Duchess de Longueville, now occupied by the king's stables, for carriage-horses ; and at the corner of the rue de Nicaise, where part of the northern gallery now stands, the infernal machine destined to kill Napoleon exploded in 1800. The principal object of interest now standing in this place is the Triumphal Arch, erected by Napoleon in 1806, after Ihe designs of Percier and Fontaine. lis height is 45 feet, length 60, and breadth 20. ft is a copy of the arch of Seplimius Severus at Rome, and consists of a central and two smaller lateral arches, each of which, unlike the original, are inter- sected by a transversal arch of equal height. Eight Corin- thian columns of red Languedocian marble, with bases and capitals of bronze, support the entablature. Upon this is a low attic, crowned with a triumphal car and four bronze horses, modelled by Bosio from the famous Corinthian horses which were brought hither from the frortt of St, Mark's at PLACE DU CARROUSEL. 155 Venice, but were taken back by the Allies in 1815. An alle- gorical female figure stands in the car, and one on each side leads the horses. In front of the attic, over each column, stands a marble figure of a soldier of Napoleon's army, in the various uniforms of the different troops ; and over each of the smaller archways is a marble bas-relief representing memorable events of the campaign of 1805. That over the right hand arch, looking from the Place du Carrousel, is the Victory of Austerlitz ; that to the left, the Capitulation of Ulm. Over the transversal archway, on the south side, is the Peace of Preshurg, and, on the north, the Entry into Vienna. Over the right hand archway, looking from the Tuileries, is the Interview of the Emperors; over the left, the Entry into Munich. All these sculptured compartments are of high finish, and by eminent French artists. During the Piestora- tion, these bas-reliefs were removed, and subjects taken from the campaign of the Duke d'Angouelmc in Spain, in 1823, were placed in their room. The former were, how- ever, restored after the Revolution of 1830. This arch, which is far too small for the site on which it stands, and is lost, when compared with the buildings around it, is never- theless one of the finest monuments of the capital. It cost 1,400,000 fr. On the south of the Place du Carrousel, is the long gallery of the Louvre, which was built as far as the central archway by Henry SV. after the designs of Duperac,and finished by Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. It forms part of a great plan conceived by the former of those monarchs, for the uniting of the Tuile- ries and the Louvre, which, with asimiiar gallery on the north, would then make an immense square, the whole of the build- ings on the Place du Carrousel being removed. This was never carried any farther into effect than by the erection of this immense pile of building, until Napoleon resumed the origi- nal idea, and built nearly half of the northern gallery. The original scheme is now destined to receive a speedy accom- plishment; the houses on the Carrousel are to be entirely re- moved, and the ground levelled ; the northern gallery will be continued, and the ornamenial parts of some portions of the southern gallery will be finished. The only deviation from the plan of Henry IV. will be the erecting of a third gallery parallel to the Tuileries, half-way between it and the Louvre, so as to make two courts out of the area formed by 156 MUST AIUIONDISSEMENT. the removal of the existing houses. The reason of this is the difficulty of harmonizing the central pavilions of the Louvre and the Tuileries, which do not face each other ; an objection which might be obviated by the erection of an in- termediate building without any great irregularity being per- ceived by the generality of observers. This plan may be ex- pected to be carried into execution in a few years' time. The southern gallery of the Louvre consists of two storeys, the lower of which contains apartments belonging to the ad- ministration of the museums, the library, the service of the palace, etc., besides a large orangery for the preservation of tJje plants from the garden of the Tuileries, and guard-houses for the troops on duty at the palace. The upper storey is one immense gallery extending the whole length of the building, and containing the celebrated collection of pictures belonging to the royal museum. The external architecture is not uni- form ; the earlier part, as far as the central archway from the Louvre, partaking of some of the characteristics of the style of the Renaissance. A series of alternate circular and triangular pediments, filled with sculptured devices, and divided by pilasters of the Composite and Corinthian orders, is continued along the whole of its extent; and this, added to the great length of the building, gives it, when viewed from a distance, an imposing aspect, with a certain appearance of regularity. For the description of the interior of this gal- lery the reader is referred to that of the royal museums of the Louvre. The northern gallery contains the apartments of the Governor of the Tuileries ; the head-quarters of the staff of the National Guards, barracks, etc. At the eastern end of a street at present occupying part of the area of the Carrousel, is the western entrance of The Louvre. — A castle or royal residence existed on the site of this palace at an early period of the monarchy, and is said to have been used as a hunting-seat by Dagobert, the woods then extending all over the actual site of the northern part of Paris down to the water's edge. Nothing very posi- tive, however, is known of it, and the etymology of its name has not been ascertained. Philip Augustus formed it into a stronghold, and used it as a kind of state prison, several of the refractory vassals of the crow n having been confined in it. At that period it was immediately without the walls of Paris, but on their being extended, which took place be- THE LOUVRE. 157 tween 1367 and 1383, it became inclosed within them. Charles V. made many additions to the old buildings ; (he Royal Library was kept there, and they served for the resi- dence of various state officers, and the accommodation of foreign princes visiting Paris. Francis I. determined to erect a new and magnificent palace on the site of this old feudal castle, on account of the ruinous state into which it had fallen ; and accordingly had the greater part of it demo- lished, while he began the present building in 1528. The southern half of the western side of the court, as it now exists, was erected by that monarch, after the designs of Pierre Lescot, and was intended to form one side of the court of the palace. His son Henry II. continued and ex- tended this plan, completing the whole of the western side, now called the Vieux Louvre. The sculptures of this part were confided to the direction of Jean Goujon, and other great artists of the day. At this time, too, that part of the Louvre, which extends from the south west angle of this court to the quay, was elected. Henry IV. made some additions to this part of lire building at the time of com- mencing the Long Gallery ; and during the reign of Louis XIII. the central pavilion of the western side was added to the original erections of Lescot, by Lemercicr, who built all the lower part of the northern front. Louis XIV., at the suggestion of Colbert, decided upon completing this palace, and a public competition of architects was proposed for the furnishing of designs for the new buildings. A physician, Claude Perrault, was the successful competitor, but, on some distrust of his abilities arising at court, Bernini, who con- structed the circular porticos in front of St. Peter's at Rome, was sent for from Italy, and his plans were adopted in pre- ference to those of Perrault. Louis XIV. laid the first stone of the eastern front, and the erections had already risen above the ground, when, on a new caprice arising, Rernini was ho- nourably sent back to Italy loaded with presents and a pension, while Claude Perrault, to the honour of France and of Colbert, w r as allowed to carry his designs into execution in 1666. He built the eastern front, and that towards the river; but the palace was again discontinued by royal caprice, and all the architectural skill, with the treasure of the country, was de- voted to the building of Versailles. During the remainder of the reign of Louis XIV., under Louis XV., Louis XVL, and 14 158 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENft the earlier times of the Revolution, the greater part of the Louvre remained without a roof, the rooms were not formed, and the whole seemed to he deslined to fall into ruin. Na- poleon, however, resumed the works of Louis XIV., and under him the Louvre was finished, and the surrounding streets and places cleared. Its internal arrangement were principally made by Charles X., and it is to be hoped that, on the restoration of its rival, Versailles, the complete embellish- ment of this, the finest palace of France, will be definitively accomplished. Charles IX. inhabited the Louvre, and, as is well known, fired from thence on the victims of the St. Bar- thelemi. Henry III., Henry IV. , and Louis X1IL also resided here, as well as the unfortunate Henrietta of England, widow of Charles h Louis XV., during part of his minority, in- habited the Louvre ; hut since then it has been devoted to the reception of the various royal museums of the fine arts, and has occasionally been used for solemn purposes of state. Of late years it has also been rendered memorable for the attack of it by the people on the 28th and 29 In July, 1830, and the defence by the Swiss guards. The persons who fell on that occasion are buried in front of the eastern facade and at the north-west corner of the palace, and a solemn service is an- nually performed at their common tomb. The eastern front of the Louvre is one of the finest pieces of architecture, not only of the time of Louis XIV., but of modern days. The grand colonnade is its striking feature, and is almost unique : it is composed of 28 coupled Corinthian columns, each couple standing rather far from the other. A wide gallery runs behind, and the wall of the palace is decorated with pilasters and windows. The effect of the light and shade caused by this arrangement constitutes its chief morit. The basement storey, pierced with lofty windows, affords an admirable contrast by its simplicity ; and the projecting masses of the building in the centre, or at either end of the facade, fronted with pilasters, and containing windows of very large dimen- sions, complete the grand details of this side of the palace. The central mass of the building, forming the gateway, is crowned by a pediment, the sloping stones of which are each in a single piece, 52 feet in length and three in thickness. This pediment contains a bas-relief, executed by Lemot in 1811,; and over the grand door- way is another by Carteilier, of the same date. The gates themselves, made by order of THE LOUVRE. 159 Napoleon, are of magnificently- worked bronze. To have a good idea of the extent and splendid effect of this front, the visitor must place himself on the quay, and even on the Pont Neuf.(l) The southern front, also the work of Claude Perrault, though not so bold, is still very fine. It is fronted with forty Corinthian pilasters, and, like the eastern, has a richly-adorned pediment over the central compartment. The northern front is plain, but has a bold and striking effect from the projection of its masses. It is so nearly ap- proached by the opposite houses, that its effect can hardly be appreciated. Along the top of these three fronts there runs a rich balustrade, surmounting a bold cornice. The western front is in some respects similar to the northern, and, like it, offers a remarkable contrast to the gorgeous richness of the interior facades of the court. Of these the western side re- mains as it came from the hands of Lescot and Lemercier. The ground floor and the storey above it have served as the models for the corresponding storeys of the three other sides, and the court is so far uniform. The only difference consists in the third or upper storey, which on the western side is surmounted by a baitlement of very elegant work, while on the three others an entablature and balustrade give to this storey a considerable addition of height. A range of cir- cular arcades, separated by Corinthian pilasters, forms the ground floor; and under each arch is a lofty window, not filling the whole of the space made by the recess. A bold cornice and entablature crown this storey, and above rises the second, the plan of which consists of windows richly moulded, with alternately circular and triangular pediments; each window standing over an arcade, and separated from the adjoining one by a Composite pilaster. The upper storey of the western front has the windows very richly enchased with sculptured groups, trophies, etc: the capitals of the pilasters representing Greek models, but not of the three regular orders. This storey in the other sides of the court is the same as the second, but with Corinthian pilasters. In the centre of each side is a projecting compartment containing (1) The dimensions of this front are as follows ; — length 525 ft., height 85 ft., width of central compartment 88 ft., width of ex- treme compartments 75 ft., height of basement storey 35 ft., height of columns 10 diameters and a half, or 38 ft. nearly. The enta- blature is nearly 10 ft. high, !« u FIRST ARRONDISSEYIENT. the principal gateway, and on each side of these are smaller projections over the other doorways of the building. These projecting parts on the western side, six in number, are richly ornamented with sculpture, in the pediments by which they are surmounted. Those of the southern half of this side are by Paolo Poncio, while the figures over the door- ways are by Jean Goujon. The sculpture of the pediments of the northern half were however executed in 1810. The colossal cariatides that support the cornice of the dome, over the central gateway of this side, are by Sarrasin. In the other three sides the smaller projections of the third storey have their balustrades supported by columns detached from the wall, but have no pediments. The central gale- ways have each a pediment rising from the upper entabla- ture, andcontainingsculpture byLesueur,Ramey,and Couslou. The vestibules of each gateway are formed by two ranges of Corinthian columns, leaving a carriage-road in the centre and a corridor on each side. With the exception of that to the east they are all unfinished. Sentinels are posted at each of them. Perrault formed the designs of these three sides, which, however, were not completed in his lime. The friezes are richly sculptured, and the capitals of the pilasters are all worked with great care. The length of each side is 408 feet : the whole forms a perfect square ; and from the unusual quantity of decorative parts, of which the sides are composed, as well as from its magnificent proportions, it is beyond dis- pute the finest court existing in Europe; only one thing is wanting to complete the splendid effect which it produces, that the arcades of the ground floor should contain smaller mural spaces, and that these spaces should he entirely occu- pied by windows. The pavement of this court, the railing that surrounds it, and the other arrangements connected with the area, are unworthy of so sumptuous a palace, and convey the appearance of desolation which has unfortunately been a real attribute of this building almost ever since its erection. At the north-western extremity of the exterior will be perceived the walls of a projecting wing, begun but not yet completed. It is intended to correspond to that part which joins the Louvre to the Long Gallery; and will, when finished, communicate with the northern gallery, which is destined to be carried on to meet it. Some additions will also have to be made to the southern wing, which was never finished. A garden before THE louvjif. 161 the southern front is called the Garden of the Infanta, from the Spanish Princess who came into France, in 1721, to marry Louis XV. There is also a small court formed by the projec- tion of the unfinished wing at the commencement of the Long Gallery. It is surrounded by antique bas-reliefs, and contains a colossal granite Sphinx brought from Egypt. The side en- trance to the museums is through this court. Interior. — A considerable part of the interior of this palace is devoted to the reception of the museums for which it is so celebrated, and which constitute some of the principal and peculiar attractions of the capital of France. As the interior will only be visited by persons inspecting these invaluable collections, the description of the various apartments of the Louvre will be found following in the order in which a visitor of the museums will generally lake them. They are known collectively by the name of Musces Royaux; but individual!}- as follows: Musee des Tableaux; Musee des Antiques; Musee Grec et Egyptien ; Musee des Sculptures de la Renais- sance ; Musee des Des sins ; Musee de la Marine. (1) (i ) Foreigners are admitted to the two first of these Museums on merely exhibiting their passports and inscribing their names in a book at the Porter's Lodge, which is situated at the side entry, a little to the right of the grand entrance over which the title Musee Royal is inscribed in gold letters. To visit the other museums, written application for permission must be made to M. Le Comic forbin, Directeur des Musecs Royaux; and the letter must be left either at the Porter's Lodge, or sent, post paid, to 56, rue St. Lazare. Permission is most readily granted ; no fees are de- manded ; but the persons in charge of the Museums, who are servants of the crown, are very civil and intelligent; and a small gratuity will be well bestowed on a hist visit. The days of ad- mission are every day except Monday and Saturday. Sunday is a public day, and the throng of all, but particularly the lower, orders of Paris is very great. The good behaviour and intelligent re- marks of these spectators are worthy of observation. For per- mission to study in these museums, special application must be made to the Director. It was formerly open to every body, but the privilege having been grossly abused, a limitation has been put upon it. It must be added that of late years the annual exhibition of the works of modern artists takes place in the long gallery; the consequence of which is the closing of this collection from the 1st of February to the middle of June. Nothing can be more prejudicial to the advancement of art, and few things more annoy- 14, 162 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. The Musee des Tableaux occupies part of the wing of the Louvre built under Henry IT. and Charles IX., as well as the whole of the long gallery. It is approached either by the grand staircase, the entrance to which is in the southern wing of the western front of the Louvre, or by a side door. The former is open only on Sundays, and other occasions, when the public are admitted indiscriminately: the latter is open every day, when students and persons with particular permis- sions, or foreigners, are allowed access. The grand stair- case, built after the designs of Fontaine, is one of the most splendid part§ of the Louvre: the steps rise between two stone walls, surmounted at each end by lofty arches resting upon marble pillars. The roof and walls are painted, and orna- mented with great richness: the columns of the Doric order are of Flemish marble, with white marble capitals, and are 22 in number. The staircase divides in the centre, under an arch, into two branches, one leading to the apartments sur- rounding the court, the other to the long gallery. Two divi- sions of the ceiling are thus made: on one, is the Revival of the Arts, by A. do Pujol, on the other, Minerva protecting the Arts, by Meynicr. Some fine porphyry and marble vases stand at the head of the staircase. The first room of the Mu- seum contains some of the earliest paintings of the middle ages. The next, called the Grand Salon, is one of the largest and best-lighted exhibition-rooms to be found any where. It contains either pictures of an immense size, or those which require and will bear a strong light. The long gallery is di- vided by projecting arcades supported by marble columns into many parts; some of which are lighted from the roof, others from side windows: it is 1332 feet in length, and 42 in width. The walls, being entirely covered with pictures, admit of no architectural decoration. A plain slab of red marble runs all round the gallery to the height of about three feet against the wall, and the pictures rest upon its upper line. The gallery is divided into three schools: the French, the Flemish and German, and the Italian. It contains 140G pictures altogether: viz. French school, 373; Flemish and German, 540; Italian, 485; and copies, 8. None but the works of deceased masters ing to the connoisseur who visits Paris at that time of the year. The excellence of the modern exhibition cannot repay anybody for the deprivation of the study of the Old Masters. THE LOUVRE, 163 are admitted into this collection. This collection was princi- pally formed by Napoleon, when it was enriched with all the chefs d'&uvre of Europe. These were in great part taken away by the allies in 1815 ; but the collection, even as it now stands, is one of the finest in the world. (1) The Musee des Antiques is entered by the vestibule at the bottom of the grand staircase, or by another communicating' with the side staircase leading to the long gallery. The series of apartments on the ground floor, which extends from the principal entrance to the end next the river, formed the apartments of Anne of Austria in 1660; and retain nearly all the decoration bestowed upon them at the time, of their first erection. The ceilings are adorned with sculptured compartments, as well as with some fine paintings; and a great profusion of marble columns and marble incVtisfatiOns on the walls are to be seen throughout them. At the end next the river, and under part of the grand salon, is the Salle di Diane, so named from a celebrated antique contained in it. On the eastern side of the vestibule, at the foot of the grand staircase, another suite of apartments leads off to the east, arid forms part of the general floor of the southern side of the court of the Louvre. This, like the other suite, cons ; sts of numerous apartments, but forms two parallel series divided from each other by a strong partition wall. This wall and the darker gallery on the northern side of it were part of the old pile of fhe Louvre as it existed in the lime of Charles V., from £364 to 1380, and when it was inhabited by his consort, Jeanne de Bourbon. Catherine de Medicis had these apartments richly adorned by Rosso, Priraaticcio, Paolo Poncio, and other cele- brated artists of that period. It is now divided into several compartments, as well as that on the southern side of the partition wall, which are called after the principal statues that are placed in them. The marble decorations of the floors and walls are here exceedingly sumptuous. With this suite communicates the Salle des Cariatides, a splendid hall, occupying the whole ground floor of the southern half of the Vieux Louvre. It derives its name from four colossal caria- (i) There being very excellent catalogues published, at a low price, of the Musee des Tableaux and of the Musee des Antiques, which are procured on the spot, all mention of the contents of these collections would be as superfluous bore, as it is, from the space it would necessarily occupy, totally impossible. 464 FIRST ARRONDISSEBIENT. tides, by Jean Goujon, supporting a tribune at the northern end of this apartment; they are of excellent execution, and are reckoned to be among the chefs d'auvre of that master. Above this tribune is a bas-relief, by Benvenuto Cellini, originally sculptured for a fountain at Fontainebleau. This great collection of antiques dates from 1797, and in 1803 was opened to the public under the title of the Musee Napoleon ; it then contained, like the gallery of Paintings, all the richest spoils of Italy, which however were restored to their original owners in 1815 by the allies. The present collection consists of about 235 statues, animals, etc. ; 230 busts and heads ; 212 bas-reliefs; and 233 vases, candelabra, altars, etc.; making in all 1,116 objects. The Musee Grec et Egyptien occupies the first floor of the southern side of the court; and was placed here under the auspices of Charles X. It is approached by the grand stair- case; and the first room, into which the visitor enters, is cir- cular, containing a magnificent mosaic pavement, in the centre of which is placed a large marble vase on a pedestal, copied from the antique. Round this apartment are ranged marble busts of some of the greatest sculptors and painters of France. On the right hand is the entrance to the Galerie d'Apollon, which extends over part of the rooms below, once occupied by Anne of Austria. It remains in the same slate of decoration as in the lime of that Princess, but the roof has long been under repair and the gallery is not shown to strangers. It formerly contained the Musee des Dessins. Two gates of carved steel of the time of Henry II. close the entrance to this gallery, and will arrest the visitor's attention. From the circular ante-room the visitor enters a small room containing some valuable cups, vases, jewels, porcelaine, and other pre- cious objects of the middle ages, belonging to the crown. Among them is a remarkable Arabian vase given to St. Louis during the crusades ; the looking-glass and other articles of the toilette belonging to Mary de Medicis, and given her by the Republic of Venice. A larger room of magnificent pro- portions occurs immediately after this, containing some paint- ings of great size. From this apartment a door leads into the scries of rooms forming the Greek and Egyptian Museum. These, though extending along the whole length of this side of the court, occupy only half of the space, being divided from a similar range of apartments looking on to the river, and THE LOUVRE. 1G5 thus forming a double suite. The first of the rooms into which the visitor enters, commences* the series of antiquities found in ancient Etruria and the south of Italy, as well as hi Greece. The collection occupies three rooms, and is one of the largest and choicest in the world. It is highly to be re- gretted that no catalogue has yet been published of it, though it was begun several years ago. The visitor's attention can only be directed to the unusual size of a great number of the vases, particularly those which stand on a marble table in the second room, and to the fine stale of preservation in which most of them remain. The riches and elegance of Hercu- laneum and Pompeii are to be found here; and most of the utensils of domestic life will be perceived in these cases. A collection of glass vases, another of bronze instruments, and another of cameos and gems, will not escape the visitor s attention. The rooms in which these treasures are contained, though not large, have been finished and arranged with great magnificence and taste. Their ceilings are all painted by the first artists of the day, and the other decorations of the walls and floors are equally sumptuous. The ceiling of the first room represents the apotheosis of Homer, by Ingres; that of the second, Vesuvius receiving from Jupiter fire to consume Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabia, by Heim ; the third con- tains a picture by Meynier, of the Nymphs of Parthenope, or Naples, carrying from their shores their household gods, and led by the goddess of the fine arts to the banks of the Seine. Compartments on the walls surround all these pictures, filled with subjects related to them, and are painted either in grisaille, or in imitation of the pictures of Pompeii. A fourth room is devoted to some more of the porcelaine of the earliest masters, belonging to the crown, and contains, besides some agates, some ecclesiastical ornaments, and other curious articles also crown properly. The ceiling, by Picot, represents Cybele, the Magna Malcr, protecting Stabia, Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Retina, from the fires of Vesuvius. A hall next is entered, which stands in the middle of the building. The roof is supported by white marble columns, with gilded capitals and bases ; the floor contains a fine mosaic ; and the ceiling, in three compartments, is adorned with paintings by Gros. The next four rooms contain the Egyptian antiquities ; most of which are the fruits of the French researches in Italy, and many presented by later travellers. For the objects of 166 FIRST AIUtONDISSEMENT. domestic life, and for all minuter articles, this is perhaps the most complete collection in existence. No catalogue is pub- lished, and the visitor is forced to inspect the treasures of the different cases, aided only by his own conjectures. Valu- able and exceedingly scarce Egyptian vases, mummies of birds and animals, and some MSS. in fine preservation will be perceived ; paintings and palettes, on which the colour still remains, will be found. Seeds of various kinds, and even fragments of bread, found in the tombs of Egypt, are preserved here. Cloth of various kinds, brooms, musical instruments, w alking-sticks, and a crutch shod with iron, all of the ancient days of Egypt, find a place in this most interesting collection. The same gorgeous decorations of the ceilings and the walls are continued throughout these rooms; the ceiling of the first is occupied by an allegorical painting of Study and Genius aiding Greece in the discovery of Egypt, by Picoi ; the second has the ceiling filled with a painting by Abel de Pujol, the subject of which is Egypt saved by Joseph. In the 3rd room is the best painting of the w hole, by Horace Vernet, who has represented Pope Julius II. giving orders for the building of the Vatican and St. Peter's to Bramanfe, Michael Angelo, and Raphael. The 4th room, smaller than the others, has the Genius of France encouraging the arts, by Fragonard. Com- partments in grisaille, and other styles, accompany each of these ceilings. The visitor will be struck both with the splendour of the rooms, that are allotted to this museum, and the extraordinary rarity and beauty of the objects of which this invaluable collection is composed. The rooms behind the Mush Grcc et Egyplien are filled with collections of furniture, and objects of various kinds be- longing to the middle ages, and to the days of Francis I., Ca- therine de Medicis, and Louis XIV. This collection is rarely shown to strangers, probably on account of its not being con- sidered sufficiently complete ; and, to see it, a special permis- sion will be required. The ceilings of all the rooms of which it is composed are painted with the same magnificence as those of the parallel apartments ; and, if they are taken by the visitor in an inverse order, beginning from the east, their subjects will be found to be as follows. In the first room is the presentation of Poussin by Cardinal Richelieu to Louis XIII., byAlaux. The second contains the battle of Ivry, by Steuben; and the third, Puget presenting his groupe oiMilo THE LOUVRE, 167 of Crotona, now in the Louvre, to Louis XIV. at Versailles, by Deveria; besides some paintings representing some of the principal events connected with the arts of the reign of Louis XIV. The fourth room has Francis L, accompanied by his court, receiving the paintings brought by Primaticcio from Italy, executed by Fragonard. The fifth is adorned with an allego- rical representation of the revival of the arts in France, and with eight paintings of historical events, from the time of Charles VIII. to the death of Henry II. ; these are the productions of Heim. The ceiling of the sixth, by Fragonard, contains Francis L knighted by the Chevalier Bayard; that of the seventh, Char- lemagne receiving manuscripts from Alcuin ; the eighth room has its ceiling painted by Drolling : Louis XIL proclaimed father of the people at the states general of Tours in 150G; and in the ninth is the expedition to Egypt under the orders of Napoleon, by L. Coignet. fn all these rooms, there are compartments painted in grisaille, or other methods, containing subjects relating to the principal ones of the ceilings. Some rooms on the ground floor of this side of the court are given up to artists and students who form models from the antique, and others contain some of the larger Egyptian antiquities, not commonly shown to visitors. The Musee des Dessins is arranged in the rooms on the first floor of the Vieux Louvre, or western side of the palace, but is not yet completed, and the public consequently are not admitted. These rooms were formerly the only ones of the palace reserved for state purposes, and under Charles X. were used for the reception of the Chambers before the opening of the legislative session. The room at the northern end of this side, called the Antechamber , has a richly-decorated ceiling re- presenting History recording the events of the battle of Bou- vines ; it is surrounded by allegorical figures by Gassies. The next apartment towards the south is the Grande Salle du Con- seil, the ceiling of which, of vast dimensions, is painted with an allegorical representation of France receiving the charter from the hands of Louis XVIII, amidst the most distinguished of her kings and legists. This splendid composition is sur- rounded by eight historical paintings in grisaille; the who e is the production of Blondel. The third room is known by the name of the Sall'e du Comite du Contenticux ; the ceiling, by Drolling, represents Law descending upon the earth. The fourth is called the Salk des Conferences ; the subject of the 168 FI KST A KiiOA DISSEMEJN J . ceiling, painted by Mauzaisse, is Divine Wisdom giving laws to kings and legislators. Over all the doors of these splendid apartments are various allegorical paintings, and the "walls were formerly adorned with paintings "oy the best living artists: these are now removed to make room for the contents of the mu- seum, on the opening of which it will probably be found that the names above given to the apartments have been changed. The Muses des Sculptures de la Renaissance is placed in the halls on the ground floor of the northern half of the Vieux Louvre, and is entered by the vestibule of the western front. It is arranged in five apartments or halls, all built of solid stone and floored with the most precious marbles; the walls are plain, but the mouldings and cornices are richly decorated. Here are placed many of the chefs d'ecuvre of the most cele- brated sculptors of France, or who were attracted to France by the munificence of the sovereigns : among them will be found the productions of Jean Cousin, Jean Goujon, Paolo Poncio, Germain Pilon, Besjardins, Coysevox, Girardon, Pugel, with two magnificent works of Michael Angelo and Ganova. No description need be entered into of this most remarkable and most interesting collection. A very instructive catalogue is published, and is to be procured on the spot. The Musee de la Marine has been placed in the rooms of the first floor of the northern side of the court, which in them- selves are not large, and are devoid of ornament. The collec- tion which they contain is exceedingly interesting. The pre- sent entrance to this museum is by the same door that leads to the Musee Egyptien, and the visitor has to traverse that suite of apartments, and afterwards the external gallery formed by the colonnade of the eastern facade to arrive at the Musee de la Marine. The first room to the east contains a collection of arms, canoes, dresses, and other objects from the islands of the Southern Ocean and from America ; but this apartment is principally interesting for the relics of the ship of M. de la Perouse, discovered and brought to France by Gapt. Dil- lon, and which were placed hereby order of Charles X. The next is filled with models of cannon, and some ancient fire- arms used at sea. The third room has very finely-finished models of all the various descriptions of vessels used in the French navy. The fourth room is filled with nautical and scientific instruments. The fifth room has models of Cher- bourg and other places, besides some of curious foreign vessels, PALAIS HOYAL. 169 etc. In the sixth room are models of dock-yards, machines, bridges, arsenals, etc. There are other rooms about to be added to Ihis museum, the contents of which are not arranged : there is not as yet any catalogue published. All the objects arc well arranged in glass cases, and the walls are covered, where the space will admit, with some excellent views of the porls of France by the elder Vernet, and by some fine draw- ings by the brothers Ozanne. A series of busls of the princi- pal naval commanders of France, in while marble, is extend- ed throughout the rooms. The remainder of the first lloor of this side is used, partly as an occasional exhibition-room, and is partly occupied by the governor of the palace. The ground floor is filled by various offices. The eastern side of the Louvre, though, in its internal as well as external arrangements, by far the finest of the four, is not yet appropriated to any definitive purpose. On the ground floor are two magnificent galleries or halls, each tilling the length of nearly one half of the side of the palace. These are empty, or partly filled with plaisler casts from the Musee des Antiques; that to the South, sometimes called the Galerie de Henri IV., is annually used as an exhibition-room for mo- dern sculpture. It was formerly adorned with several busts and statues of the great men of France, but these are now re- moved; at the extremes of this side of the palace, and leading from each of these galleries, are grand staircases rising to the first floor, and opening on to the colonnade. The vaulting of the roof above these staircases is built in stone richly orna- mented, and supported by lofty Corinthian columns; they are remarkable for their size and their light appearance. The rooms on the first floor of this side are not yet finished, and now serve as workshops for the service of the museums. The whole of the third storey, round the four sides, is either un- inhabited or devoted to very subordinate purposes. The visi- tor of this wonderful palace will be struck not less with its ap- parent desolation, than with its great magnificence : there is ample room in it to lodge a sovereign with a large and bril- liant court, or to form the greatest assemblage of museums that were ever concentrated in one spot. From the Louvre, the visitor will proceed, by the gateway on the northern side, into the rue St. Honore; and, turning to the left, will arrive at The Palais Royal, r-, Where this palace stands was a house, 15 170 FIRST ARKONDISSEMKNT. erected in the time of Charles VI., situated without the city walls; this was purchased by the Cardinal de Richelieu, who built on its site a splendid residence, which assumed the name of the Palais Cardinal. It was begun by Lemer- cier in 1629, and occupied the place where had previously stood the Hotels de Rambouillet and de Mercoeur ; successive additions were made to it, and it was finished in 1636. Several courts were included in this palace : the eastern wing of the first contained a theatre capable of accommodating 3000 spectators ; the western was occupied by a magnificent gallery, the ceiling of which, painted by Philippe de Cham- pagne, represented the principal events of the cardinal's life. A similar gallery was also formed on the western side of the second court, and was adorned with portraits of the great men of France by Philippe de Champagne, Vouet, etc. The walls of the arcades of this court were ornamented with ships' prows, anchors, etc., carved in stone, in allusion to the office of grand master of navigation, held by the cardinal. Within the palace, there was also a second theatre, calculated for only 500 persons. The chapel was fitted up with extraordinary magnificence, and some large gardens were formed at the back of the palace. They occupied a parallelogram of 1000 feet by 432, and extended over the sites of the present Rues de Valois, de Montpensier, and de Beaujolais. Their princi- pal ornament was a large alley of chestnut trees, reared at an expense of 30D,000 fr., the branches having been all trained by iron bands. The original plan of the cardinal was to have erected houses all round the garden, with three grand en- trances ; but the splendour of the minister's establishment is said to have excited the jealousy of the king; and, shortly be- fore his death in 1642, the cardinal made a present of it to Louis XIII., confirming the gift by his will. On the death of Richelieu, the king removed into this palace, which from that period has retained its present appellation. On the king dy- ing in 1643, Anne of Austria, with the young king Louis, XIV., made this her residence, and remained here during the tur- bulent times of the Fronde. At this period, the grand gallery to the west was converted into apartments for the king's bro- ther, to whom, after the king had ceased to reside in it, he presented it for his life. About this time, the Palais Royal was considerably enlarged : the Hotel de Brion, at the corner of the rue de Richelieu, was added to it, and a grand gallery PALAIS ROYAL* 171 was erected on that side by Mansard. In 1692, the palace was ceded by Louis XIV. to Philippe, Duke of Orleans, his nephew, on his marriage with Marie-Francoise de Bourbon, Mademoi- selle de Blois. The Regent Duke of Orleans, on coming into possession of this property, placed in the grand gallery the valuable collection of piclures which he had purchased in various parts of Europe, and which, after becoming celebrated as the Orleans gallery, was sold at the time of the Revolution, w hen the greater part of its treasures passed into England. Here, too, had previously been arranged, in the time of Louis XIV., the collection of medals and engraved gems, equally well known with the pictures ; and which, at the Revolution, was purchased by the Empress of Russia. The orgies carried on in this palace by the regent have been sufficiently com- memorated in the memoirs of the time : after a cessation un - der his successor, they were to a certain extent resumed by the Duke of Orleans, better known by the name of EgalitL In 1763, the theatre, built by the cardinal, was destroyed by fire ; and, on this occasion, the entire front of the palace with its two w ings was rebuilt, after the designs of Moreau, and finished as it now stands. The debts of the duke having acquired such an extension that he was meditating on declaring himself insolvent, he determined, by the advice of the brother of Mine, de Genlis, to erect buildings for shops, and places of amuse- ment, in the garden of the palace, and to dispose of them to in- dividuals. These were begun in 1781, after the designs of thear- chilectLouis, notwithstanding the clamours of the neighbours, who were thereby deprived of the view of the garden ; the trees were all cut down, and the houses and arcades, as they are now seen, finished in 1786. The plan succeeded to the duke's wishes; and, during the eariy part of the Revolu- tion, the garden, which had been replanted, became the ren- dezvous of all the politicians of the day : it was here, too, that the tricoloured cockade was first adopted, and that many of the leading measures of the popular party were decided on. After the execution of the duke in 1793, his palace was con- fiscated, and was converted into sale-rooms, ball-rooms, cafes, etc. In 1795, a military commission was established in it, and a spacious hall was afterwards fitted up for the Tribunal, the president and the two quaestors having apartments in, it. It w as then called Palais du Tribunat, but reassumed its ori- ginal title under Napoleon. In 1814, the Duke of Orleans, his FIRST ARROTVDISSEMENT. present Majesty, returned to it, and with the exception of the in- terval of the hundred days, resided in it till 1831, making some additions and improvements in various parts of the structure, and fitting up the whole anew. A great part of the houses surround- ing the garden had been alienated during the Revolution, but part still belong to the king, and every opportunity is taken of purchasing all those that are offered for sale, and of adding them to the domain. The palace, at present, consists of a court, entered from the rue St. Honore, by a Doric arcade and gateway. On the northern side is the principal building, and on the eastern and western, two wings projecting towards the street. The central compartment of the northern side is three storeys in height, surmounted by a circular pediment: the other sides of the court have only two storeys; and a re- gular gradation of the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders is observed throughout. An archway and vestibule lead through (he central building to the second court. Here the facade, forming the southern side, is longer ; it has two projecting masses adorned with fluted Ionic columns, on the entablature supported by which are stone statues of allegorical personages. The whole is surmounted by an attic. On the first floor is a fine range of windows belonging to the slate apartments, and on the eastern and western sides of the court are w ings skirted by galleries underneath. The gallery on the east still retains the naval ornaments of the time of Cardinal de Richelieu. The northern side of this court is formed by a Doric co- lonnade, inclosing a gallery of shops, between which is a wide and lofty passage paved with marble and roofed with an arch of glass : on the roofs of this splendid gallery, a double terrace is formed, lined with flowers and vases, and serving as a promenade to the inhabitants of the palace. West of the first court, another smaller one occurs, having galleries of the palace extending over the colonnades below, which are occu- pied by shops. The houses immediately adjoining this part of the palace, and forming the corner of the rues Richelieu and St. Honore, belong to the estate of the Palais Royal, and contain the stables, and numerous suites of apartments for do- mestics. The Theatre Francais is also an appendage of the palace, having been formerly the private property of the Dukes of Orleans. A door from the palace still communi- cates with the royal box. (See Theatres, etc.) Interior. — On the right of the archway under the building PALAIS ROYAL. 173 on the northern side of the firstcourt is part of the long vestibule, which leads to the grand staircase. The designs of this staircase were given by Desorgues ; it rises under a lofty dome, di- vides itself into two flights, and is defended by a railing iu carved iron, of masterly execution, by Corbin. The visitor first enters the ante-chamber; then the Salle des Aides -de- Camp; and then the Salle de Reception. These rooms, though not very large, are filled with splendid furniture, and contain some excellent paintings by the best French artists of the day, Gudin, Blondell, Horace Vernet, etc., as well as some older portraits of the royal family. From the last- named room a door leads into a suite of three apartments looking into the second court. In the first of these salons, are some remarkable pictures representing the events of the kings' s life, from the time when be taught geography in a school in Switzerland, to his return to Paris at the Restora- tion. The next is the Salle du Trone, and was used as such by his present Majesty after the revolution of July. The furniture and draperies of this room and of the throne are of crimson velvet. A smaller room leads to a splendid gal- lery extending along the western sides of the second and the smaller courts. The columns are in white stucco, with gilt capitals and bases. The panels of the side of the gallery opposite the windows are occupied with a series of pictures, by celebrated artists of the day, representing historical scenes connected with the Palais Royal, from the giving of it by Richelieu to Louis XIII., down to the offer of the throne of Belgium to the Duke do Nemours. This gallery was formed by the present king before 1830. From the Salle de Recep- tion a suite of apartments opens into the western wing of the first court; among them is the dressing-room, filled with pictures; and beyond this the study, containing a fine collec- tion of family portraits. Resides these there are the royal bed-room, the library, and the council-chamber, which are not shown to strangers. The ante-chamber of the state apart- ments is a large saloon on the south side of the second court, and leads to the suite that occupies the eastern wing of the same court. Of these the Salle de Sccietc is an elegant room lighted by four windows, and leading into the Galerie Dorce. This is (53 feet long by 33 broad, and has eight windows towards the second court ; the opposite panels are filled with mirrors, and are divided, as well as the windows., by ranges of Corin- 15. 174 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. thian columns. The decorations of this elegant gallery are in white and gold, and are of the time of Louis XV. The Salon Bleu is the last of this suite. The dining-room is an oval apartment looking to the rue de Valois, and communicating with it by a private staircase. In nearly all these apartments there are a great number of valuable and ornamental objects in porcelainc, clocks, etc. The palace is now not inhabited by the royal family, but serves for the accommodation of foreign princes during their stay in Paris. Permission to visit the interior of this palace is to be obtained by written application fo iff. Vlntendant de la Lisle Civile y 9, Place Vendome. The day of admission is Sunday. The Garden and Galleries of the Palais Royal. — This garden forms a parallelogram of 700 feet by 300; it is planted with rows of lime trees in the direction of its greatest length, and two oblong flower gardens are similarly placed in the middle, separated from each other by a circular basin of water, with a fine jet-d'eau. The garden was thus ar- ranged, at the expense of the proprietors of the surrounding houses in 1799 : it now belongs entirely to the crown. The flower gardens contain bronze copies of the Diane a la Biche of the Louvre, and the Apollo Belvedere. In that to the north, are two modern statues in white marble, one of a young manenlering a bath, by d'Espercieux ; the other of a boy struggling with a goat, by Lemoine. In the garden to the south, are Ulysses on the sea-shore, by Bra; and Eu- rydice stung by the snake ; the latter, an exquisite piece of sculpture, is by Nanteuil. Within the circuit of the garden are four pavilions, occupied by persons who let out journals to read at 1 sou each; and round them arc to be found at all hours of the day politicians of every caste and rank. The gains of the proprietors of these pavilions are very considerable. Under the rows of lime trees, which are kept carefully clipped and trimmed so as to form shady walks, are placed thickly-set rows of chairs. These in the cool of the evening, during the summer, are occupied by hundreds of loungers ; and so great a trade is carried on, that the privilege of letting out chairs and supplying the loungers of the garden with re- freshments is held of the crown at an annual rent of 30,000 fr., or €1,200. The houses that surround the garden are all uniform, and consist of two storeys and an attic, standing upon arcades, divided from each other by fluted Corinthian pilas- PALAIS ROYAL. 175 ters, which rise up lo the cornice above the second storey. Under the arcades a broad gallery extends all round the gar- den, and Ihe ground-floor, with the entresol above, forms a shop. These are for the most part occupied by dealers in jewellery, watches, and objects for the toilette* the writing- table, etc. There arc also a great number of cafes and res- taurants, tailors, shoemakers, milliners, money-changers, etc. These shops arc some of the most elegant in Paris, or at least have the objects they contain arranged with great taste and effect in their windows ; and, from being mostly devoted to the sale of articles of luxury, the brilliant effect they produce is very remarkable. On the first floor are a great number of restaurants, and there are still remaining some of the gam- bling-houses which formerly rendered this place so infamous. The legislature having voted their suppression, any descrip- tion of such haunts of profligacy may be very well omitted. The storeys above are occupied by individuals of various pro- fessions. The most striking of the galleries is that to the south, called the Galerie d' Orleans, from its having been erected by the present king in 1S30. It has the appearance of an oriental gallery of glass, the sides being entirely occu- pied by the windows of shops, and the intermediate panels being fronted with mirrors. Its dimensions arc 300 feet by 40. Under the arcades, at the corner of the Theatre Francais, is the famous Ghcvet's, a magazine of comestibles, celebrated throughout Europe. In the western gallery is the cafe dc Foy, and at the northern end are the three restaurants, Very, Ve- four, les Trois Frcres Provencaux, and the Cafe de la Ko tonde; ail of these establishments are unique in their kind. The watchmakers and jewellers will not fail to attract the attention of the visitor on his first entering this immense ba- zaar. It will be interesting lo know that the rent of a shop occupying the width of one arcade, with a cellar below, and the entresol above, is generally 3,000 fr. per annum, and, in the Galerie d'Oricans, even 4,000 fr. The double and triple shops pay in proportion. The best time for seeing the garden and arcades is in the evening, when they are brilliantly il- luminated with gas, and when a continual tide of loungers fills them in every part. The Palais Royal has been called, not without some reason, the capital of Paris ; and it is cer- tainly entered, both by inhabitants and by strangers, more fre- quently than any other spot of equal dimensions in the 176 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. city. There are many persons who pass not only days, but years, in ceaselessly sauntering through it, and who are to be found in it at all hours of the day and at all seasons of the year.(l) It is the perpetual rendezvous of all that is idle and all that is worthless of the male sex in the capital. Improper characters of the other sex have of late years been excluded, and a strict guard is kept up both at the avenues and in the arcades at a]l hours, but it is increased during the evening.' The visitor should be particularly on his guard against mock auctions that are sometimes got up in the shops here, and should never lend an ear to any pretended dealers in jewel- lery, flowers, etc., who may accost him in the arcades. The shops are generally held by respectable people, but it is ne- cessary to offer less than is demanded; a remark that unfor- tunately holds good for the rest of Paris. At the north- western end is the small Theatre du Palais Royal (see Theatres). In front of the Palais Royal is a large Place, called by the same name. On the southern side of it is a Chateau d'Eau, or reservoir of water for supplying the fountains in the neigh- bourhood, which was erected in 1719, by de Gotte. Its front, 120 feet in length, is adorned with Doric columns, and consists of a central compartment, crowned with a pediment, and two pavilions. The statues are by Coustou ; it bears the following inscription; Quot el quant os effundit in usus I In the rue St. Thomas du Louvre, leading from this place to that of the Carrousel, is -the Theatre de Vaudeville, (see Thea- tres, etc.,) a plain building, which is shortly to be removed. In the same street, at the corner of the Place du Carrousel, formerly stood the celebrated Hotel de Longueville, the resi- dence of the Dukes de Longueville et Elbcsuf, where the in- trigues of the Fronde were formed during the minority of Louis XIV. Apart of it is now occupied by the king's stables, in which the carriage-horses are kept. These stables are en- tered by a large rustic arch from the rue St. Thomas du Louvre ; they contain stalls for 160 horses, and arc worthy of (l) Among them the stranger may often remark a man with a long beard, named Duclos, whose memoirs have been published. He began walking in the Palais Royal in 1829, to annoy M. de Pcyronnet, then one of the ministers ; he has walked there ever since, when not in prison; and he walks there still. He is not in want, having 1,200 fr. a-year ; but is beset with an unfortunate monomania. He is not the only habilue' of the Palais Royal. IP1LACS1E l&IE ILA (5 @ ST (D® IB IE* IE o TrmawMiFiBiAiL Ames in ©if n a <3 rE^r®niLis 0 PLACE VEND&ME. 177 inspection. They may be visited any day from 1*2 to 4, by application at the porter's lodge. At the corner of the rues St. Honore and do Rohan, are the houses where some soldiers of the Garde Roy ale made a de- sperate resistance in the Revolution of 1830. They had formed an idea that no quarter would be given, and they defended themselves till they were nearly all killed. Marks of the bullets are to be seen on the facade of the Palais Royal, and on the fronts of all the neighbouring houses. The visitor will follow the rue de Rivoli, which was begun by Napoleon, and crosses over the site of the convent des Feuillans, and the Manege, so celebrated in the Revolution. It has been since completed at various intervals. The houses are among the most commodious in Paris, and are almost en- tirely occupied by foreigners, or by hotel-keepers. The only fault of this One street and of its splendid arcades, is its too rigid uniformity. At No. 18 is the Depot of Porcelaine from th j Royal Manufactory at Sevres. It is highly interesting and worthy of a visit, especially from those who cannot go to Sevres: all the objects exhibited arc for sale. Here also is a gratuitous school of painting on porcelain and glass. On turn- ing into the rue de Casliglione, the visitor will perceive the Place Yendome. — This place, formed upon the site of an Hotel belonging to (he Duke de Yen dome, son of Henry IV. and Gabriellc d'Estrees, was originally begun by Louis XIV., who, at the suggestion of Louvois in 1^85, purchased and demolished the Hotel with the intention of erecting, round a public place, edifices for the Royal Library, the Mint, the extraordinary Ambassadors, etc. On the death of Louvois the execution of this project, already in a state of forwardness, was abandoned, and the properly, some years after, was ceded to the city of Paris, with a stipulation for the erection of a new place upon the site. Mansard, who furnished the first plans to Louvois, was charged with the preparation of the second : and the buildings, as they now stand, were begun, according to hfs designs, in 1G93, and finished by the finan- cier Law. The form of the place is an elongated octagon, the four smaller sides of which are of equal length ; while the longer and opposite pairs are 450 and 420 feet respectively. Two wide streets, terminated, one by the rue de la Paix, the other by the rue de Casliglione, intersect its northern and southern sides, forming the only entrances to the place. The 178 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. buildings that surround it are uniform ; their fronts consist of a rustic basement, surmounted by upper storeys decorated with Corinthian pilasters, and high roofs pierced with richly- ornamented lucarne windows. The middle of each side presents a projecting part crowned with a pediment which is supported by Corinthian columns. This place was first called the Place des Conquetes, then the Place Louis le Grand, and afterwards the Place Vendome. Several of the houses are occupied by public functionaries ; the rest are Hotels, or the residences of noble families. Reviews and military ceremo- nies are often held in this place. In the middle formerly stood a colossal equestrian statue of Louis XIV. in bronze, by Girardin and Seller, which was demolished on the 10th of August, 1792 : but the bronze figures that ornamented its base were preserved, and are still to be seen in the Musee des Sculptures de la Renaissance of the Louvre. The mutilated pedestal remained till 1806, when it was replaced by the triumphal pillar erected by Napoleon in commemoration of the success of his arms in the German Campaign of 1805. This column is an imitation of the pillar of Trajan at Rome, of which it preserves the proportions on a scale larger by a twelfth. Its tofal elevation is 430 feet, and the diameter of the shaft is 12 feet. The pedestal is 21 feet in height, and from 17 to 2!) in breadth. The pedestal and shaft are built of stone, and covered with bas-reliefs, in bronze (representing the various victories of the French army), composed of 1,200 pieces of cannon taken from the Russian and Austrian armies. The bronze employed in this monument was about 360,000 pounds weight. The column is of the Tuscan order. The bas-reliefs of the pedestal represent the uniforms, armour, and w eapons of the conquered troops. Above the pedestal arc garlands of oak, supported at the four angles by eagles, in bronze, each weighing 500 pounds. The double door, of massive bronze, is decorated with crowns of oak, surmounted by an eagle of the highest finish ; above is a bas-relief repre- senting two figures of Fame supporting a tablet, upon which is the following inscription — Napoleo Imp. Aug. Monumeiitum belli Germanici Anno MDCCCV. Trimesiri spatio, ductu suo, profligati, ex a?re capto, Gloria cxercitus maximi dicavit. f LACE VENDOME. 179 The bas-reliefs of the shaft pursue a spiral direction from the base to the capital, and display, in chronological order, the principal actions of the campaign, from the departure of the troops from Boulogne to the battle of Austerlitz. The figures are three feet high; their number is said to be 2,000, and the length of the spiral band 840 feet. A cordon or band, ascend- ing in the same direction as the bas-reliefs, divides them, and bears inscriptions of the actions which they represent. The designs were furnished by Bergeret, and executed by 31 sculptors, including Mademoiselle Charpentier. Above the capital is a gallery, which is approached by a winding stair- case of 176 steps. Upon the capital is this inscription : — Monument eleve a la gloire de la grande armee, Par Napoleon le Grand, Commence le xxv aoiit, 1806, termini le xv aout, 1810, Sous la direction deD. V. Denon, MM. J. B. Lepere et L. Gondoin, architected. The capital is surmounted by an acroterium, upon which was originally placed a statute of Napoieon in the heroic costume. This was destroyed in 1814, and melted down to form part of the horse of Henry IV., now on the PontNeuf. During the Restoration it was replaced by a lleur de lis and a flag-staff ; but on the 1st of May 1833, the present statue of Napoieon was fixed with great ceremony upon the summit, it is 11 feet high, habited in the favorite costume of the Emperor, and was modelled by Seurre. This sumptuous monument stands upon a plain plinth of polished granite, surrounded by an iron railing ; and from its vast size and happy position produces a grand effect, when seen from the Boulevard or the gardens of the Tuileries, although on account of the imperfect man- ner in which the bronze was made, its colour is reckoned to be defective. The architects Gondoin and Lepere presided at the execution of all the parts, under the direction of the celebrated Denon ; and the total cost of its erection was 1,500,000 francs. The view of Paris and the environs from the gallery of the column is delightful ; and permission to as- cend it may be obtained from the guardian, an old soldier of Napoleon's, who expects a small gratuity, and furnishes the visitor with a lantern, which, from the total darkness of the interior, is almost indispensable. The hours of admission are 180 FIRST AR110 XDISSEMEN T. from 10 to 6 in the summer, and from 12 to 4 in the winter. On leaving the Place Vcndome, and returning into the rue St. Honore, the visitor will find The Fontaine des Capxjcins, at the corner of the rue Castiglione, creeled in 1671, and rebuilt in 1718. It Is only remarkable for the inscription it hears, composed by Santeuil ; Tot loca sacra inter, pura est qua: labitur unda ; Hanc rion impuro, (Jiusquis cs, ore bibas. In the immediate neighbourhood of this spot six convents, including the Feuiilans and the Jacobins, formerly stood. A short way to the west of this is Musard's Concert Room, No. 359, on the left hand side ; beyond which is the Eglise be l'Assomption, parish church of the 1st arron- dissemcnt, 361), rue St. Honore. This Church formerly be- longed to a society of nuns, called Les Dames de l'Assomption, and was the chapel of their convent ; —the remains of which, converted into barracks, may still be seen behind this edifice. It was begun in 1670, after the designs of Errard, and finished in 1670. In 1802 it became the parish church of the 1st arrondissement, to supply the place of the Eglise de la Made- leine de la Ville 1'Eveque, demolished at the Revolution. The church is circular, surmounted by a dome 62 feet in diameter, with a lantern supported by consoles and a gilt cross. The cornice and entablature are not bold enough for the size of the dome, and spoil the effect which it would otherwise pro- duce. The portico is composed of eight Corinthian columns. Within, the dome is painted in fresco, by Lafosse, and is decorated with roses in octagonal compartments. On the south side is the chapcllc des fonts : and over its entrance is a good picture by Sauvee, representing the birth of the Virgin, A chapel, dedicated to St. Hyacinth, contiguous to the church, was erected in 1822 for the use of catechists. This church is remarkable, not so much for its architectural merit, as for the eloquence of its preachers and the haut-ton of its congregations. The rue Neuve du Luxembourg leads to the Hotel des Finances, 48, rue de ilivoli. — This vast struc- ture occupies an immense tract of ground comprised between the rues de Ilivoli, de Castiglione, du Mont Thabor, et Neuve du-Luxeinbourg. The fronts next the two former streets are uniform with the other houses, being fiye storeys high, with PLACE LOUIS XV. 181 arcades at the ground floor, forming a covered way. The building comprises several courts, around which are ranged all the offices connected with the administration of the finances of the kingdom. The whole is well arranged, and the apart- ments of the minister are very splendid. A little further on in the same street, at the corner of the rue St. Florentin, is a large and handsome mansion, remark- able as being the residence of Prince Talleyrand, and bearing the name of that venerable diplomatist. The visitor here enters The Place Louis XV., or de la Concorde; which, till the reign of Louis XV., was a vast, unoccupied, irregular space, lying between the garden of the Tuileries and the Champs Elysees, and detrimental to the beauty of both. After the peace of Aix la Chapelle, the city of Paris deter- mined upon the erection of a statue to Louis XV. ; for this purpose the king appropriated the vacant spot above mention- ed, between the garden of the Tuileries and the Champs Elysees. Upon this spot the Place Louis XV. was commenced in 1763, after the designs of Gabriel, but was not completely finished till 1772. Its length, from north to south, is 750 feet, and from east to west, 528. The plan, which is octagonal, is marked out by fosses, 72 feet in breadth by 14 in depth, sur- rounded by balustrades, and terminated by eight pavilions. Instead of forming an interruption between the Tuileries and the Champs Elysees, the Place Louis XV. seems to prolong the dependencies of the palace. The place derives great beauty from the objects which surround it. The terraces of the garden of the Tuileries bound it on the east. The Champs Elysees lie on the west. On the north are seen two spacious and magnificent edifices, which, divided by the rue Royale, afford a view of the church de la Madeleine, and to the south are the Pont Louis XVI. orde la Concorde, and the Chamber of Deputies. Along the left bank of the Seine are seen a line of magnificent edifices, and beyond the Chamber of Deputies appears the splendid dome of the Invalides. At the entrance of the Champs Elysees are two lofty pedestals surmounted by groups in marble, by Coustou, junior, each representing a restive horse checked by a groom. These groups correspond with two others at the western entrance of the garden of the Tuileries, but in execution are* far superior to them. The former were brought to Paris from Marly, in 1794. The two 16 182 FIRST AimONDlSSEMENT. edifices on the north side are each 288 feet in length ; and the rue ftoyale, which separates them, is 90 feet wide. The fronts are terminated by two projecting pavilions, between which, on the ground-floor, is a gallery formed by arcades. From this basement rise 12 Corinthian columns, surmounted by au entablature and a balustrade. The basement of each pavilion supports four columns of the same order, crowned by a pediment, above which rises a cluster of armour. At the first storey is a second gallery behind the columns. The tym- panums of the pediments are adorned with bas-reliefs. These structures were erected byPotain, after the designs of Gabriel; and the aim of the architect appears to have been to rival the production of Perrault in the colonnade of the Louvre. The building nearest to the garden of the Tuileries was formerly occupied as the Garde- Meuble de la Couronne, and contained an immense number of valuable and curious objects. Under Napoleon, it was appropriated to the residence and offices of the minister of marine and colonies, who still dwells in it. Upon the summit of the roof a telegraph has been erected to correspond with Brest. The building on the opposite side of the rue Royale is inhabited by private families. The equestrian statue of Louis XV., which was cast in bronze by Gor, afler a model by Bouchardon, was destroyed on 12th August, 1792. Considerable difficulty was found in forcing the statue from the pedestal; a foot of the horse still remained in the socket, upon which a w it observed, " Royalty has yet one foot in the stirrup." This statue was succeeded by a monstrous figure of Liberty, in plaster, and at that period the place was called Place de la Revolution. In 1800, upon a decree being issued for the erection of a departmental column in the centre, it assumed the name of Place de la Concorde. In 1814 the name Place Louis XV. was restored. On 10th January, 1816, Louis XVIII. issued an ordonnance for re-erecting the statue of Louis XV. After the accession of Charles X., it was resolved that the statue of Louis XV. should be erected in the centre of the Rond Point of the Champs Elysees, and that of Louis XVI. in the Place Louis XV., the name of which from that period was to be changed to Place Louis XVI. The revolution of 1830 interfered with the execution of this project, and the place remained in a neglected state till 1836, when the works now carrying on were begun. The alterations and improvements are as follows -The soil of the whole place is so far leyelled PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 183 that no further inequalities subsist in it than are necessary for carrying off the water. The wide parades between the lines of road that cross the place, bordering each fosse, have been laid down in compartments of Seyssel asphaltum. The fosses are planted in gardens, and at the corners of the place are crossed by bridges, placed diagonally. On the large pe- destals of the parapets are twenty handsome rostral columns, bearing lamps, and surmounted by gilded globes. Along the internal edges of the parades are forty iron lamp-posts, half of which are furnished with cocks at their bases for watering the place. The eight pavilions, having been completely re- stored, are surmounted with allegorical figures of the principal towns in France: viz. Lille and Strasburg, by Pradier; Bor- deaux and Nantes, by Galhouet; Marseilles and Brest, by Corlot; Rouen and Lyons, by Petilot. On the sides of the pavilions are oval medallions, incrusted wilh various mar- bles, and surrounded by richly-sculptured wreaths. In the middle of the place is the obelisk from Luxor, a granite mo- nolith, 72 feet in height, standing on a pedestal composed of four blocks of granite, from Laber, inBritany, each of which is 12 feet by 5 feet and 2 feet. The plinth is a block 15 feet high by 8 feet square at the top, and 9 feet square at the bottom, and is one of the finest blocks ever cut from a French quarry. This venerable monument is surrounded by an ellip- tical plateau, at the extremities of which are two magnificent fountains, dedicated, one to maritime, the other to fluvial, navigation. They consist each of a circular basin, 50 feet in diameter, out of which rise two other smaller basins, one above the other, the diameters of which are 20 feet and 12 feet respectively. The lower one is ornamented externally with twelve coupled pcdeslals ; the middle basin is supported by an hexagonal base, at each face of which a figure, nine feet in height, is seated, wilh its feet on the pnw of a vessel, and separated from each other by spouting dolphins, while water is thrown up into it from Tritons and Nereids swimming and holding fish in the basin below r ; the upper basin has its base surrounded by three upright figures of children and swans spouting water. In the Maritime fountain, the figures sup- porting the middle basin represent the Ocean and the Mediter- ranean, by Debay ; the Genii of the Common and the Pearl Fisheries, by Desbceufs; with those of the Coral and Shell Fisheries, by Valois. The figures of the upper basin, repre- senting the Genii of Astronomy, Commerce, and Maritime 184 PIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. Navigation, are by Brian. In the Fluvial fountain, the lower figures are the Rhine and the Rhone, by Gechter ; the Genii of Flowers and Fruits, by Lanno ; of the Vintage and the Harvest, by Husson. The upper figures, by Feucheres, are the Genii of Agriculture, Manufactures, and Fluvial Navi- gation. The Tritons and Nereids are by Moine, Elscbouet, and Parfait. The lower basins are formed of polished stone, incrusted with marble, and the rest of each fountain is in iron, coloured to represent bronze, for the figures, wbile the orna- ments and accessories are gilt. The water of these fountains comes from the Canal de l'Ourcq. The events that have ren- dered this spot famous are so identified with it, that we shall mention the principal ones in chronological order: — May 3o, 1770. —During tire rejoicings at the marriage of Louis XVI. a faial accident occurred, after a discharge of fireworks, from the people rushing towards the Rue Royale, where the ground was broken up for building, and trampling to death or otherwise mortally injuring 3, 000 persons. July 12, 1789. — An accidental collision between the Prince de Lambesc's regiment and the people took place here, and became the signal for the destruction of the Bastille. . Jan, 21, 1793. —Louis XVI. suffered death on this place, (1) where the following persons also subsequently perished by the guillotine:— July 17, Charlotte Corday; Oct. 2, Brissot and ao of his colleagues ; Oct. 16, Marie Antoinette, consort of Louis XVI. ; Nov. 14, Louis Philippe Joseph Egalite, Duke of Orleans ; March 25, 1791, the Hebertists, Maratisls, and Orleanists '; April 8, the Dantonists, including Danton, Camille Desmoulins, etc. ; April 16, the Atheists, composed of Bishop Gobel, Chaumette, Anacharsis Clootz, the wives of Camille Desmoulins, of Hebert, etc. — May 12, Elizabeth Philippine Marie Helene of France, sister of Louis XVL; July 28, Robespierre and his brother, Dumas, St. Just, and Couthon, members of the Committee of Public Safety, with several others ; July 29, 70 members of the Commune of Pans ; July 3o, 12 olher members of the Commune. From Jan 21, 1793, to May 3, 1795, more than 2,800 persons were executed here. April 10, 1814.— The Russian, Prussian, and Austrian armies were reviewed, and Te Deura was sung at an altar in this Place. On the west, the Place de la Concorde leads to The Champs Elysees.— This tract of ground was formerly covered with small detached houses in the midst of gardens, meadows, and arable land. In 1616, the queen mother, (\) The scaffold for the execution of Lonis XVX. was erected midway between the centre of the place and the horses of Marly ; that for Marie Antoinette, midway between the centre of the place and the gate of the Tuileries, CHAMPS ELYSEF.S. 185 Marie de Medicis, having purchased part of the ground, had four rows of trees planted so as to form three roads, which were closed at the extremities by iron gates. This plantation being intended exclusively for that princess and her court, when she wished to take an airing in her carriage, it assumed the name of Cours la Heine, which it still retains. The drive extends along the banks of the Seine, from which it is sepa- rated by th# high road leading to Versailles. On the other side it was divided by ditches from a plain, with which a com- munication was formed by a small stone bridge. In 1G70, this plain, which extended to the village du Roule, was by order of Colbert planted with trees, forming several walks interspersed w ith grass plats. The new promenade was at first called le Grand Cours, to distinguish it from the Cours la Reine; but a few years after it was named Champs Elysees. Madame de Pompadour, having become proprietor of the hotel now called Palais de l'Elysee Bourbon, complained to the Marquis de Marigny, superintendent of the royal buildings, that the trees intercepted her view of the road; in consequence of which Colbert's plantation was cut down. Madame de Pompadour dying in 1764, the ground was replanted in the same year; several alleys, squares, and circles were formed, and restaurants and cafes erected. At the same time, in order to render the point of view from the palace of the Tui- leries more extensive, the ascent near the Barriere de I'Etoile was lowered, and the road reduced to its present gentle slope. From 1777 to 1780, the Champs Elysees were the most fa- shionable promenade in Paris, being the resort of the most beautiful and elegantly-dressed ladies of the capital. A soli- tary avenue was called Allee des Veuves, in consequence of its being thronged in the afternoon by the carriages of rich widows, who sought at the same time to take the air and assuage their grief. At that period no widow ventured to appear in deep mourning in the public walks. At present, the Allee des Veuves is deserted. In 1814, a Cossack camp was established in the Champs Elysees ; and in 1815, the English encamped there. In 1818, the walks of the Champs Elysees were improved, and young trees planted to replace those destroyed during the period of the camps. At this time an opening was made which affords a fine view of the Hotel des Invalides from the high road. A suspension bridge forms a communication between the Champs Elysees and the Espla- 16. 186 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. nade des Invalides. A plan was formed for constructing in the Champs Elysees, on the side towards the Seine, a new quartier, to be called Quartier de Francois I. The works begun in 1823 have proceeded very slowly. Four streets open into a place, called Place de Frangois /., in the centre of which will be a chateau d'eau and a fountain ornamented with the statue of Francis I. At the corner of the street opening into the Goursla Reine is a house inwhiShhave been used the ornaments of the front of a country-seat which Francis I. built at Morels, near Fontainebleau, in 1572, for his sister Margaret, and which were sculptured by Jean Goujon. The Champs Elysees are bounded on the north by the Faubourg St. Honore, on the south by the Cours la Reine, on the east by the Place de la Concorde, and on the west by Chaillot and the Faubourg du Roule. Their length from the Place de la Concorde to the Barriere de l'Etoile, at the op- posite extremity, is about i % mile ; their breadth at the eastern boundary is 373 yards, and at the western 700 yards. They are divided by the Neuilly road, the axis of which is the same as that of the grand walk of the garden of the Tui- leries. This road, planted with trees, which form wide walks on each side, is prolonged in a straight line to the bar- rier, and from thence to the bridge of Neuilly. The public fetes take place in the Champs filysees : in one part a theatre has been erected, where equestrian performances are given during the summer : in another is an enclosed pavilion and galleries w r here a concert takes place every evening, and throngs of Parisian fashionables may be seen. That part of the Champs Elysees which lies to the right, on entering from the Place Louis XV., is more particularly devoted to the pro- menade. On the left are players at bowls, skittles, balls, etc. Nothing can present a more lively scene than the Champs filysees, in the evening, during the summer season, particu- larly on Sundays. At the Rond Point is the Salon de Mars, where the votaries of the dance are found in throngs; and Whilst on each side of the grand avenue the different amuse- ments usual at fairs may be enjoyed, itinerant instrumental and vocal performers enliven the walks. A plan has been proposed for forming a circular basin of water with a jet-d'eau in the middle of the Rond Point ; but nothing is yet decided concerning it. An annual promenade? denominated Longchamp, which Champs elysees. 187 lakes place in the Champs Elysees and the Bois de Boulogne on the Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday of Passion Week, originated in the following manner: — In the Bois de Bou- logne, an abbey, called Abbaye de Longchamp, was founded in 1261, by Isabella of France, sister of St. Louis, which at- tracted little notice till the middle of the eighteenth century, when the melodious voices of the nuns excited the attention of amateurs. The church of the abbey became frequented, and in Passion week, it was the resort of the fashionable cir- cles. The attendants were dressed in the most splendid at- tire, and as the collections made were very considerable, and it was supposed it might be still augmented, the principal singers of the Opera-house were solicited to lend their aid in chanting the lamentations and tenebroe. When the empire of fine voices had passed away, the church of Longchamp was deserted, but the Parisians still flocked to the Bois de Bou- logne, where the haut ton displayed their costly attire and splendid equipages. After the 18th Brumaire, the promenade of Longchamp was resumed, notwithstanding the abbey had been destroyed. The number of equipages seen at Longchamp is very considerable. The carriages proceed up the road on one side, and down on the other; the centre is reserved for royal carriages, and those of the ministers, foreign ambassa- dors, and other high personages. On leaving the Champs filysees, at the extremity of the Cours la Beine, and the Allee des Veuves, the visitor will find on the Quai de Billy the Pompe d feu de Chaillot, a building contain- ing a steam-engine for supplying the fountains of different parts of the capital with water from the Seine. It was erect- ed in 1778 by Messrs. Perier, and contains an engine of Bol- ton and Watts's construction. The water is taken from the middle of the river, and 400,000 cubic feet are supplied by it in 24 hours. A steam-engine manufactory and iron-foundry, the first of the kind established in France, was also set up here at the same time with the water-works. The two con- cerns afterwards were separated; when the former, a short time before the Revolution, had become a subject of much finan- cialspeculation. It languished till 1818, whenM. Scipion Perier, and after him, his brother, M. Casimir Perier, became its pro- prietors ; since that time, the manufactory has gone on so pros- perously, that at the present day, 500 workmen are constantly employed in it, and 1500 tons of iron are annually consumed. 188 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. A little further on, in the same direction, is a large building, but lately finished, erected on the site of the royal manufac- tory of mosaic ornaments, which existed here for many years, but is now abolished. The present edifice is intended to serve as a general bakehouse and magazine for provisions for the garrison of Paris. Beyond the buildings of Chaillot, on the hill side, opposite the Pont d'lena, are some terraces and roads cut in a regular form and planted. The open space of ground to which they lead, once part of an enclosure belonging to the Dames de $te. Marie , was intended to serve as the area of a palace, to have been built entirely of marble for the king of Rome. It is said that a barrack is going to be erected here. Returning from hence, the visitor will come to St. Pierre de Chaillot, 50, rue de Chaillot, third district church of first arrondissement. A parochial church existed here in the 11th century, but the oldest part of the present edifice is the choir, which dales apparently from the end of the 15th century. It is octagonal, and its vaulting ribs are tied together by a well-sculptured pendant. The nave is of the year 1750 ; and, w ith the exception of a good head of Christ and a painting by Dubufe, the rest of this little church con- tains nothing remarkable. Beyond this, near the Avenue de Neuilly, is the Institution de Sainte Perine, grande rue de Chaillot. — This house was an ancient monastery, called Abbaye de Ste. Perine, which was suppressed in 1790, and in 1806 was converted into an asylum, by M. Duchaila, for aged persons of both sexes who have a small fortune. The Empress Josephine was a great benefactress of this institution. The number ad- missible is 175, and no person can enter under 60 years of age. Payments, according to the means of the persons en- tering, are required. At the summit of the hill, to which the Avenue de Neuilly leads from the Champs Elysees, is the. Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile. — The idea of this magni- ficent monument originated with Napoleon, and the order for its erection was given by a decree of Feb. 18, 1806. The Emperor had entrusted MM. Raymond and Chalgrin with the forming of the plans for the building which he contemplated, and the designs of the latter architect were chosen in 1809. M. Chalgrin, however, only lived to carry his plans into exe- ARC DE TRI0MPHE DE l'eTOILE. 189 cution as far as the cornice of the base, and died in 1811. Much difficulty had been experienced in the formation of a proper foundation for so enormous a superstructure ; it was laid 25 feet below the surface, and was made by layers of stone, so placed that the joints of the one layer were covered by the solid parts of the stones immediately above it. The first stone was laid on the 15th Aug. 1806 : and, it is curious to remark, without any accompanying ceremony. Some of the workmen, it is said, had the following inscription carved upon one of the stones. " L'an 1806, le quinzieme d'Aoilt, jour de Vanniversaire de la naissance de samajeste Napoleon le Grand, cette pierre est la premiere qui a etepose'e. Le Mi- nistre de I'lnterieur, M. de Champagny." On the marriage of the Emperor with Maria Louisa, and her triumphal entry into the capital, there was an immense model in wood and canvas of this arch temporarily erected here and brilliantly illuminated. After 1811, M. Goust continued Chalgrins plans as far as the impost of the great arch ; but in 1814, the works were entirely suspended, and the intention of abandon- ing them was for a time entertained during the first years of the Restoration. In 1823, however, after the campaign of the Duke d'Angouleme in Spain, it was determined to finish the arch in honour of his victories, and MM. Huyot and Goust were charged with the completion of it. Other arrangements were subsequently made; a superintending committee of four architects was appointed, and the edifice rose to the archi- trave of the entablature. In 1828 M. Huyot, who had re- sumed the sole direction of the works, finished the entabla- ture, and the pointed vaulting of the interior that supports the upper platform. After a short suspension of the works, oc- casioned by the events of 1830, the Government decided that the original destination of the monument should be retained, and in 1832 M. Blouet was commissioned to conduct the whole to a speedy termination. The sculptures were at the same time commenced, and the labours of the architect and the ar- tists were unremitting until the whole was completed in July 1836, with the exception of a crowning acroterium, or else a group of sculpture, to be placed on the platform at the summit. The total cost was 9,651,115fr., or £386,044. The stone with which the external parts of this monument were erected came from the fine quarries of Chateau Landon, in the department of the Seine et Marne ; it is capable of receiving a good polish, 190 FIRST ARRON£IS?£ttENT. and is the same as that used for the Madeleine. The monu- ment consists of a vast central arch, 90ft. in height by 45ft. in width, on each side of which piers of unusual solidity rise to support a bold entablature and an attic. The arch and piers are pierced by a transversal arch, 57ft. high and 25ft. wide; and the total height of the whole edifice is 152ft., while its width and thickness are 137ft. and 68ft. respectively. The principal faces of the building are towards the Champs Ely- sees and Neuilly ; the lateral ones towards Passy and Roule. Each of the piers of the principal faces is ornamented with a projecting pedestal, supporting groups of figures, partly en- gaged in the surface of the monument. The impost of the main arch runs in a bold cornice all round the four sides ; the spaces between which and the frieze of the general entablature contain compartments filled with alti-rilievi. The frieze is entirely occupied with sculpture, and the cornice above it, which is of unusual boldness, has large lions' heads projecting from it at frequent intervals. The attic, also, crowned by a cornice and entablature edged with masks, is divided into com- partments by short masses like pilasters, each of which bears alaureated sword, while the intervening compartments have in their centres a circular shield, bearing the name of some great victory. The vaults of all the arches are divided into richly-sculptured rectangular compartments, each filled with an architectural flower; and the spandrils are adorned with colossal allegorical figures. The internal sides of all the piers are charged under the great arch with the names of victories, under the transversal arches with the names of generals : and in the latter case, these lists of honour are surmounted by compartments filled with allegorical groups. The northern pier of the eastern principal face bears on its pedestal a group representing the departure of the army in 1792. The Genius of War summons the nation to arms, and warriors of different ages, and in different costumes, are arming and hastening to battle. The dimensions of this and of all the corresponding groups are in total height 36ft., and each figure 18ft. This group is the w ork of M. Rude, and is the most striking as well as the best executed of the four. The southern pier of the same front has the triumph of 1810, represented by Victory crowning Napoleon. Fame surmounts the Whole, and His- tory records his deeds ; vanquished towns are at his feet. This is by M. Cortot, and is justly admired for the dignity of the AHC 1)E TRIOMPHE DE L'eTOILE. J91 composition, and for the admirable portrait of the Emperor. On the western front, the group of the southern pier represents the resistance of the French nation to the invading armies in 1814 ; a young man is seen defending his wife, his children, and his father; a warrior hehind him is falling killed from his horse, and the Genius of the Future flits over and encou- rages them to action. That on the northern pier is the peace of 1815 : a warrior is seen sheathing his sword ; another, more aged, is taming a bull for purposes of agriculture, while a mo- ther and children are seated at their feet, and Minerva, crown- ed with laurels, sheds over them her protecting influence. These two groups by M. Etex, though very good, are by no means equal to those on the eastern side. The principal ornaments of the arch are the alti-rilievi of the compart- ments above the impost-cornice, which constitute as fine a series of historical sculpture as was ever affixed to an^ mo- nument. All the groups just described, as well as those which arc on the inner sides of the arches, are in antique costumes, being purely allegorical. These, on the contrary, are ren- dered doubly valuable, by being faithful representations of the uniforms of the time. The southern compartment of the eastern side represents the surrender of Mustapha Pacha at the battle of Aboukir, by M. Seurre, sen., and is the most highly finished of all the sculptures of the monument. The group of Turks is peculiarly excellent. The dimensions of these compartments give about 9ft. to the height of the prin- cipal figures. The northern compartment of the same side is filled with a group of the death of Gen. Marceau, by M. Le- maire ; this is the least effective of the series. Above the arch and impost-cornice of the northern side of the monu- ment, is a magnificent composition. The battle of Austerlitz, by M. Gecther. On the western front, the northern alto-ri- lievo is the taking of Alexandria by, M. Chaponniere. The figure of Kleber which it contains is the chef-d'oeuvre of the whole edifice. The southern corresponding group on the same side is the passage of the bridge of Areola, by M. Feu- chere. On the southern side of the building, the compart- ment answering to the battle of Austerlitz is the battle of Jemmapes, by Mazochetti. The composition of this magnifi- cent piece of sculpture is very able : the animation of the va- rious groups, and the admirable perspective that is observed in it, constitute one of the most wonderful pictures in stone 192 Jj'IRST ARRONDISSEMENT. that have ever been executed. Behind Gen. Dumouriez is a portrait of the King, at that time the Duke de Ghartres. The figures of Fame in the spandrils of the main arch on each side are by M. Pradier. They are 18ft. in height. The frieze is occupied on the eastern, and a half of the northern and south- ern sides, by the departure of the armies. The deputies of the nation, grouped round the altar of the country, distribute flags to the troops. There are portraits of all the great cha- racters of the epoch, 1790-2, included in this group. The corresponding portions of the frieze on the other sides of the building represent the return of the armies, who offer the fruit of their victories to France regenerated. This long com- position is the work of several artists — MM. Brun, Laitie, Jac- quot, Caillouette, Seurre, and Rude. The series of bucklers, inscribed each with a victory, on the attic above the entabla- blature, thirty in number, begins with that of Valmy, and ends with that of Ligny. The spandrils of the transversal arches are filled with figures, representing the infantry and cavalry of the French armies, by Messrs. Bra and Valois respectively : and, on the interior spandrils of the same arches, the artillery and the marine, by Messrs. de Bay and Seurre, junior. Under the main arch are the names of 96 victories. The allegorical groups under the lateral arches, consisting of figures of Victory and Genii, are intended to represent the conquests of the armies of the North, East, West, and South ; the names of the Generals corresponding to each are placed beneath, and altogether are 384 in number. Within the monument, staircases in each pier conduct to vaulted rooms over the principal arch, placed in 3 series above each other : the uppermost having a vaulted roof formed by a pointed arch. The use of these apartments is not yet decided on. From the platform above, one of the finest views of Paris and its environs is to be procured, and is hardly less interesting than the monument itself. The whole is sur- rounded with a circular area, bounded by many handsome posts and naval chains, and is lighted by bronze lamp-posts and gas-tubes. The guardian of the monument is an old soldier of Napoleon's, and still wears his uniform. It is difficult to find terms sufficiently energetic to express one's admiration of this grand national work; it is worthy of the Emperor and of the armies of France. To have finished it, and to have adorned it, is the peculiar honour, as it is the result of the patriotism, of King Louis Philippe. Tickets of admission are HOPITAL BEAUJON. 193 granted by M. Le Direcleur des Bailments publics, au Ministere de VInterieur, 122, rue de Grenclle. From the Arc del'Etoile, the Avenue de Neuilly leads to the village of that name; and at about half a mile's distance on the left hand is the Porte Maillot, one of the principal entrances to the Bois de Boulogne. (See Promenades.) The stranger will now do well to pass through the new quarticr Beaujon, with its villas and gardens, into the rue du Faubourg du Roule. He will there find, at No. 59, the Chapelle de Beaujon, 4th district church of 1st arron- dissement. This chapel was erected, in 1780, at the expense of Nicholas Beaujon, receiver-general of the finances. It was built after the designs of Girardin, and dedicated to St. Nicho- las. The edifice is small and plain, containing nothing re- markable ; it suffered much by the Revolution. Behind it stands the house and ground that formerly belonged to the founder of the chapel. His property, which was very exten- sive, he left almost entirely to the hospital known by his name; and the house and grounds, after having been enjoy- ed by his legatees for the space of 50 years, have lately, by the terms of Ihe will, reverted to the same splendid foundation. The Hopital Beaujon stands on the opposite side of the street, and was founded, in 1784 , for 24 orphans of the parish du Roule, 12 boys and 12 girls, for whose support he endowed it with an annuity of 20,000 livrcs. By a decree of the Con- vention, dated January 17, 1795, this orphan asylum was con- verted into an hospital for the sick, and took the name of H6- pital du Roule. The council-general of hospitals have re- stored it to its former name, but not to its primitive destina- tion. The Hopital Beaujon was built after the designs of Gi- rardin. The different parts are well distributed, solidly built, and tastefully decorated. The building is 96 feet in length, by 144 in depth, without including the garden. It consists of a ground floor, two storeys above, and a third in the roof; and contains 200 beds for the sick of both sexes. The ground floor is devoted to convalescents, the kitchen, refectories, baths, and offices; the upper stories are divided into wards for the sick. The patients are of the same class as those at the Hotel Dieu, and are attended by the Soeurs de Ste. Marine. The days for admitting the public are Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays, but strangers may visit it every day, and an in- 17 194 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. speclion of this well-ordered establishment will he highly gra- tifying to every friend of humanity. Behind this hospital and its grounds is the Parc de Mou- ceaux, 4, rue de Char ties, faubourg du Roule. In this park, planted in the English style, an edifice was built in 1778, under the direction of M. Carmontel, for the Duke of Orleans. It is ornamented with grottos, ruins, etc. The National Convention decreed that Mouceaux should not be sold, but preserved for various establishments of public utility. Napoleon, at his accession to the throne, presented it to the arch-chancellor Cambaceres ; but the latter, finding that to keep it up an immense expense was occasioned, restored it to the donor four or five years afterwards. Napoleon then an- nexed Mouceaux to his private domains, and upon his fall, in 1814, Louis XVIII. restored it to the Duke of Orleans. This spot is worthy of the traveller's visit, and tickets of admission may be obtained upon applying, by letter, to iff. Vlntendant de la Liste Civile, 9, Place Vendome. In the rue du Faubourg du Roule, at the bottom of the hill, The King's Stables, for riding-horses, and for the keeping of carriages, harness, etc., will be perceived on the right hand of this street. A handsome building, with Tuscan co- lumns, surrounds two courts, and was erected in the time of Charles X. For permission to see the interior, application must be made, by letter, to M. k Premier Ecwyer du Roi, and left at the porter's lodge. Nearly opposite is St. Philippe, 8, faubourg du Roule, 2d district church of 1st arrondissement. This church, begun in 1769, after the designs of Chalgrin, and finished in 1784, may be ranked among the productions which do honour to the French school. The portico is formed of four Doric columns crowned by a pediment, which is ornamented with an alto-rilievo repre- senting Religion. In the interior, sixteen columns of the Ionic order separate the nave from the aisles. The plan is that of the ancient basilics ; the length is 156 feet and the breadth 78. It contains several good pictures. The Marghe du Roule is on the opposite side of the street, consisting of passages lined with good shops, of an elegant but simple construction. PALAIS DE l'ELYSEE BOURBON. 195 The Stables of the Duke of Orleans are in the rue de Montaigne ; admission is granted on application at the Por- ter's Lodge. At the upper end of the rue de Miromesnii, leading out of the rue du Fauhourg St. Honore, we find the large establish- ment ties Voitures Parisiennes, where the diligences for Ver- sailles and St. Germain, etc., are kept with their horses. Higher up in the same street is the Abattoir du Roule — begun in 1810, after the designs and under the direction of M. Petit Radel. It occupies a space of 222 yards in length, by 131 in breadth. It is needless to enter into a description of its interior, since all the Parisian Abattoirs are alike, and the examination of the largest, that of Popincourt, will suffice for all the rest. On the Plaine de Mouceaux are many new streets (raced out, and some of them partly erected. From its high and airy situation, this may some day become one of the best quarters of Paris. It is traversed by the rail-road from Paris to St. Germain. From hence, the visitor will return, in a straight line, by the Rue de Miromesnii, to the Place Beauveau. — This place forms a semicircle, the dia- meter of which is in a line with the rue du Faubourg St. Ho- nore. The central building of the place is the Hotel Beau- veau, in front of which the Avenue de Marigny extends to the Champs Elysees. The other buildings are handsome pri- vate houses. The first house that occurs at the corner of the rue du Fau- bourg St. Honore, 59, is the Palais de l'Elysee Bourbon. — This hotel, constructed in 1718, after the designs of Molet, for the Count d'Evrcux, was afterwards purchased and occupied by Madame de Pom- padour, mistress of Louis XV. Whilst in her possession, part of the Champs Elysees was added to the garden. At the death of Madame de Pompadour, Louis XV. bought it of the Marquis de Marigny, as a residence for ambassadors extraordinary. In 1773, it became the property of M. Beaujon, the famous banker, who enlarged and embellished it in the most magni- ficent style. The Duchess of Bourbon purchased it after the death of Beaujon, and occupied it till 1790, the period of her emigration. In 1792, it became national property, and dur- ing the most stormy period of the Revolution was used as the 196 FIRST ARRONDISSEMFNT. printing-office of the government. In 1800 it was sold, and converted into a garden for public amusements. Murat bought it in 1804, and occupied it until his departure for Naples. It then became the property of the government, and was a favourite residence of the Emperor, till after the events of 1814. In 1814 and 1815, it was inhabited by the Emperor of Russia, and afterwards by the Duke of Wellington. Napo- leon returned to it from the Isle of Elba, and all the drama of the Cent Jours was acted within its walls. In 1816, Louis XVIII. gave it to the DultedeBerri ; and on his assassination it became the property of the Duke de Bordeaux. It now be- longs to the crown. The interesting associations connected with this small palace render it one of the most valuable pub- lic monuments of Paris. A large court-yard surrounded with stables and other offices, hid from the sight of the inhabitants of the palace, and the front decorated with the elegance and magnificence that prevailed at the time of its construction, give it, though small, an imposing appearance. The garden front is more extensive, showing two wings besides the prin- cipal body of the building. The garden itself is laid out in the English style, and contains some trees of considerable growth. Visitors are introduced through a small vestibule to the suite of apartments on the ground floor by a guard-cham- ber, and a dining-room 50 feet by 20, ornamented with Co- rinthian columns. The walls of this apartment are painted by Dubois, with landscapes, the figures of which are by Vernet ; and were executed for Murat at the time of his inhabiting the palace. Of the views represented, one is the Chateau de Benrad, on the Rhine, near Dusseldorf, once occupied by Murat ; the carriage in the foreground contains Murat's children. The view of the chateau of Neuilly, at that time also Murat's property, has a female figure in the foreground which is said to be a good portrait of Mad. Murat, the sister of Napoleon. From one end of this room a small door leads to the west wing of the palace, formerly used as a theatre. The next room into which the visitor is introduced, called the Salon des Aides-de-camp, is the apartment w here Napoleon used to dine with his family every Sunday. The oval com- partments that run round the upper part of the walls used to contain the portraits of his brothers, etc.; they have long been empty. The Salon de Reception, into which this leads, formerly served as the council-chamber of the Emperor. A PALAIS DE l'eLYSKE BOURBON. 197 large round table that once occupied the middle of this room, and which witnessed the transactions of that period, slill exists, and is shown in an ante-room. Here are two fine vases of Swedish porphyry, 11 feet in height, and of great value. The bed-room, in blue and gold, contains, under a splendid recess, the bed upon which the Emperor last lay in Paris, after the battle of Waterloo. The next apartment was the favourite room of the Emperor, and is still called the Salon de Travail ; its decorations are extremely elegant, and the Beauvais tapestry, which covers the chairs, is very beau- tiful. From this the visitor passes through the dressing-room, into a suite of apartments, one of which, now used as a cha- pel, w r as the Depot des Cartes Geographiques of Napoleon, and where General Bertrand and the Emperor used to work to- gether ; another leads to the Petits Appartements , which con- tain nothing very remarkable, except a small library fitted up by Mad. Murat', and a boudoir d'argent, which is exceedingly elegant. The walls are painted in fresco, and the decorations are all in silver. From the vestibule of entry, the visitor as- cends the principal staircase, which is too small for the pro- portions of the house, and passes through the apartments of the upper storey. These, for the most part, are a repetition of those on the ground floor. Their decorations are not quite so sumptuous, but the mirrors they contain are remarkably fine. The library is over the council-chamber, and leads to the bed- room. This beautiful apartment, fitted up in the style of a tent, with hangings of rich yellow silk, was arranged by Mad. Murat, for the reception of her husband after one of his cam- paigns. The ornaments are all gilt, and the bed, which now stands in the Petits Appartements, was decorated with helmets and military emblems. This was the bed-room of the Em- press Maria Louisa, and witnessed the birth of the daughter of the Duke and Duchess de Berri. Adjoining to it is a suite of rooms for the accommodation of a domestic, and a dame d'honneur. The collection of pictures belonging to the Duke de Berri, which formerly adorned the walls of this palace, have been sold in England for the Duke de Bordeaux, since 1830. The palace has a lonely and deserted appearance, but the decorations of its wainscots and ceilings convey an idea of what it must have been in the time of the Emperor, and perhaps even in that of Madame de Pompadour. For permis- sion to visit it, application must be made by letter to M* Le 17. 198 FIRST ARRGNDISSEMEKT, Dirccteur des Bdtiments et Monuments publics, ail Ministere de rintcrieur, 122, rue de Grenelle. The Episcopal Church of the British Embassy stands in the rue d'Aguesseau, leading out of the rue du fau- bourg St. Honore, on the northern side. It is built in imita- tion of the Flamboyant style of pointed architecture, but has not been confined so strictly to the rules of existing examples as might have been desirable. It is plain and yet elegant in the style of its internal decorations; and consists of one aisle, with the altar and organ at the west end. The seats are all oaken benches, and it is crowded during the hours of divine service by the most 'respectable of the British visitors and residents. It was erected by Benham in 1834, under the aus- pices, and partly at the expense, of the right Reverend Bishop Luscombe. It will hold about 800 persons. Service on Sundays at 11 % and 3J£ o'clock. For seals application must be made to the clerk, Mr. Lemaire, 127, rue du Fau- bourg du Roule. On the southern side of the rue du Faubourg St. Honore, No. 39, the visitor will find the Hotel Borghese, formerly the residence of the Princess Pauline, sister of Bonaparte, and now occupied by the British ambassador. It is one of the most splendid of Ihe noble man- sions of Paris. Returning from thence, the visitor will pass near the Hotel de la Rkyniere, 1, rue des Champs Elysees. This was once the residence of the famous M. Grimod, author of the Almanack des Gourmands. It is now hired from the go- vernment, and occupied by the Russian ambassador. The Duke of Wellington has resided here several times. The stranger should now proceed at once by the rue de la Madeleine to the Chapelle Expiatoire, rue d'Anjou St. Honore. The spot upon which this beautiful little chapel is erected was ori- ginally a burial-ground dependent upon the parochial church de la Madeleine. Upon the execution of the unfortunate Louis XVI. and his queen, in 1793, they were here interred. It was then purchased by M. Descloseaux, and converted into an orchard, in order to preserve it from revolutionary fury, and to keep the precious remains which it contained as a sa- cred deposit for better times. The places of the royal graves were carefully marked out by the proprietor, who, it is said, dHAPELLE EXPIATOIRE. 199 Sent annually to the Duchess of Angouleme a bouquet of flowers gathered from the ground beneath which her parents were laid. At the Restoration the ground was purchased of the faithful guardian, and the bodies searched for, found, and transported to St. Denis with the greatest solemnity and pomp. The earth that had contained the royal coffins was carefully collected, and placed where the king had lain ; the bones of all the other victims of the Revolution, that could be found, on this spot, including those of a great number of the Swiss Guards, were also collected and placed in two very large ad- jacent fosses. Over the whole, an expiatory chapel, with suitable buildings adjoining, was erected by Louis XVIII. A raised platform containing the earth of the principal part of the cemetery, w ith the bodies before mentioned, is surrounded in the form of a parallelogram by two covered galleries on the longer sides, by the chapel and ante-chapel on the shorter. The chapel is in the form of a cross, surmounted by a dome in the centre, and having the ends of three arms of the cross, terminated semicircularly, and capped with domical roofs. The fourth arm is formed by the door-way, and aDoric portico. Within are two statues of Louis XVI., and Marie Antoinette, each supported by an angel ; on the pedestal of the former his will is inscribed in letters of gold on a black marble slab ; on that of the latter, are extracts of the queen's last letter to Mad. Elisabeth. Around the chapel are niches with magnifi- cent candelebra, and bas-reliefs with appropriate designs. The whole is finished with great simplicity and good taste. Beneath is a subterranean chapel, where an altar of grey mar- ble is erected over the exact spot where Louis XVI. was bu- ried ; and in a corner, about 5 feet from it, is pointed out the original resting-place of the queen. The vestry attached is for the use of two clergymen, who perform mass here every day. The architects were Percier and Fontaine ; the general effect of the whole is solemn, and cannot fail to produce the most interesting associations in the mind of the visitor. The guardian of the chapel, who shows it, resides in the building. Beyond this beautiful monument, if the stranger is curious in such matters, he may inspect the Bains de Tivoli, 88, rue St. Lazare. In this establishment are baths of factitious mineral waters of every kind, with commodious lodgings for invalids, and a fine garden. Eastw ard of the Expiatory Chapel is the 200 FIRST ARRONMSSEMENT. College roYal de Bourbon, 9, rue 8te. Croix. The buildings in which this college is established were erected in 1781, after the designs of Brongniart, for a convent of Capu- chins. In 1800, the same architect was charged to convert it into a college, to be called Lycee Bonaparte, a name which it bore till the restoration, w hen it assumed that of College de Bourbon. The front is 162 feet in length by 42 in elevation. It consists of a central door-way with columns and a pediment, and of two pavilions at the extremities ; one of which, the former chapel of the convent, is now the church of St. Louis. The interior of the court is plain, and of no architectural interest. The Churcii of St. Louis lias only a central with one small lateral aisle : it is a plain building of the Doric order, With a semicircular end, the altar being towards the west. It contains three pictures worthy of remark: — St. Louis visit- ing his soldiers attacked by the plague ; a Flight into Egypt, of very original design ; and a well-conceived Adoration of the Magi. In an urn placed on a column of black marble in the baptismal chapel, is the heart of Count de Ghoiseul Gouffier, the celebrated Grecian traveller. From hence the stranger may go into the Chaussee d'Antin, the name of which street is as well known as that of any in the world : he will then be in the centre of the richest quar- ter of Paris. On the Boulevard des Capucines is the Maison St. Foix, or Hotel d' Osmond, 8, rue Basse du Rempart. This splendid mansion was built by Brongniart, in 1775. And by its side No. 4 is the Hotel de Sommariva. This mansion is enriched by the Terpsichore and the Magdalen of Canova, and contains a very superior collection of pictures, which may be seen on Thurs- days, in summer, by inscribing the nauie at the porter's lodge a few days beforehand. At the end of the whole line of Boulevards, towards the west, is the superb church called La Madeleine. A church situated in the village of the Ville 1'Eveque being found, in the middle of the 18th cen- tury, greatly inadequate to the extent of the population in the neighbourhood, Louis XV. ordained, in 1763, the construction of a new parochial church. The spot chosen was the boule- vard, opposite the rue Royale, and Constant d'ivry f LA MADELEINE. 201 nished the plans. The first stone was laid in April 1704, and Constant dying in 1777, Couture junior was charged to con- tinue the construction. The events of 1789 suspended the works till 1808, when Napoleon formed the project of con- verting this building into a Temple of Glory, dedicated to the grand army. The whole edifice was taken down, and the pre- sent structure, in the form of a Roman temple, was com- menced by Vignon ; the works were again suspended by the events of 1813 : but in 1810, Louis XVIII. ordained that the church should be completed and destined to receive monu- ments to the memory of Louis XVI., the queen Marie An- toinette, Louis XVII., and Madame Elizabeth, while at the same time it was resolved that it should be dedicated to the Magdalene. Since then the exterior has been finished ; and the works within arc so far advanced that they may be ex- pected to be completed in about two years' time. This mag- nificent church, the most splendid specimen of the architec- tural genius of the age, is raised on a vast platform twelve feet in height, the interior of which is formed into vaults, and the ascent to which is made, both at the northern and southern ends, by a flight of steps extending the whole breadth of the edifice. The building is constructed on a plan analo- gous to those of the purest Roman temples ; and is surrounded by a peristyle of 52 Corinthian columns, 60 feet in height and 0 feet in diameter, channelled like those of the interior of the Pantheon at Rome, with fiat surfaces. Their capitals are 9 feet in height ; the distance of their intercolumniations is nearly two diameters; and they are arranged so as to present a line of 18 on each side, and of 8 at each end. Of these octastyle porticos the southern one is double, having a second row of six columns, those corresponding to the two middle ones of the first row having been omitted for the sake of faci- litating the approach to the principal doorway. In the pedi- ment of the southern end is an immense alto-rilievo, by Le- maire, 118 feet in length, by 22 in height, to the apex of the triangular space. It represents the Saviour, at the day of Judgment, with the Magdalene in supplication at his feet, and the good and wicked on his right hand and on his left. The figure of the Saviour, which is the most prominent, and the best of the group, is 17 feet high. Under it, on a tablet in the frieze, is the following inscription — D. 0. M. SUB INV0C. S. M. MAGDALEN/E. 202 FIRST ARRONMSSEMENT. The pediment of the northern end is not yet adorned with any sculpture in the tympanum ; but behind it, though unseen, a space is left for the bells, four in number, which will be worked horizontally. The cornice and entablature are richly ornamented, but are perhaps rather deficient in boldness ; and the frieze is unfortunately occupied by a monotonous series of angels holding garlands of fruit and flowers, which are both heavy and inappropriate. The edge of the roof has a line of lion's heads, one over each column ; and is itself covered with sheets of copper, and pierced with sky-lights at the top. The columns stand at the distance of about two diameters from the cell, or body of the edifice ; and the ceil- ing of the external corridor thus formed is adorned with ar- chitectural flowers in compartments, cut with remarkable boldness. The walls of the cell have the divisions of the stones regularly and deeply channelled; and are pierced with a range of small square-headed niches resting upon a sur- basement. A richly-sculptured doorway at the southern answers to a similar one at the northern end, and leads into a vestibule, on either side of which are chapels, one for bap- tisms, the other for marriages. The interior of this great edifice is not divided into any aisles, but forms an immense hail, with a semicircular termination at the northern end for the reception of the high altar. The inner roof is composed of three circular domes ranging the length of the building, with a semi-dome covering the northern end over the altar, and a circular vault of the same height, covering the vesti- bule. The only light admitted comes from the centre of each dome, which is left open, and is covered by a sky-light in the outer roof, and from a similar opening over the altar. The pendentives of the domes rest upon detached Corinthian columns, standing in advance of the side walls, and of smaller proportions than those of the peristyle. Three recesses are thus formed on each side, and are occupied each by an altar. A surbasement, 8 feet in height, runs round the whole of the interior ; and upon it ranges of small Ionic columns form a colonnade below, and support a gallery above. In the middle of each division of this colonnade, over each altar, is a niche surmounted by a pediment for the reception of a statue. The level of the floor of the interior is the same as that of the external porch and peristyle ; but the spaces be- tween each of the large projecting columns are raised above LA MADELEINE. 203 the floor; and the high altar, which is still more elevated, will be approached hy a flight of several steps. The roof is studded with regular compartments of sculptured flowers, which to- gether with the mouldings are all exquisitely wrought hy Messrs. Derre of Brussels.(l) The intersections of the domes, with the side walls, give semicircular spaces upon the latter, which are under the process of painting, by Messrs. Abel de Pujol, Zuigler, Thomas, Gerard, etc. Above the high altar the upper part of the circular end is also covered with a large painting on the wall, by Zuigler. (2) In the pendenlives of each dome is the figure of an apostle, in alto-rilievo, by Rude, Foyatier, and Pradier; and in the compartments of the vaulted roof of the vestibule are the three apostolic vir- tues of Faith, Hope, and Charity. Under this vaulted roof of the vestibule, but placed against the wall, will be the organ. Behind in e surbasement, and in the corners of the building, are corridors of communication with the exterior or the galleries, the sacristy, and other apartments, staircases, etc. The internal dimensions of this edifice, exclusive of the thickness of the walls, are 300 feet by 130 in length and breadth, and 90 feet in height. The walls and bases of the pillars of the interior, composed of a very fine white stone, are encrusted and inlaid with the most precious French marbles, highly polished, and producing a most sumptuous appearance. The pavement of the interior, as well as of the peristyle, will be constructed with equal richness. All the stone used for the outer walls, columns, platforms, etc. was taken from the quarries of Chateau Lantlon. The effect of the exterior is similar to that of the Parthenon at Athens; and the most favourable time and place for viewing it is from the opposite side of the boulevard early in the morning, or rather by moonlight. The interior is grand and solemn, notwithstand- ing its extreme magnificence; and it rivals in some respects the gigantic splendour of St. Peter's at Rome. For tickets of admission application must be made to M. Le Directear des (1) It is not yet decided whether the roof, the capitals, and cor- nices, are to be painted and gilt, or whether th.ey are to remain in their present state of dazzling whiteness. (2) The mode of applying these paintings is very durable. A thin coat of fine lime is first applied to the surface of the wall, and one of oil is then added ; upon this the painting is made, and the process is equivalent to painting on the stone itself. 204 SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. Bailments et Monuments publics, auMinistere de I'Interieur, 122, rue de Grenelle. Behind this church is a small but well-supplied market, called by the same name ; and on the esplanade that sur- rounds the edifice a flower-market is held on Tuesdays and Fridays every week. In a line with the Madeleine and the Place Yendome, is the Hotel des Affaires Etrangeres, 14, rue Neuve des Capucines. — The office of the Minister for Foreign Affairs was for many years at the Hotel Galifet, 84, rue du Bac. In 1821, the government purchased the Hotel Wagram of the heirs of Marshal Berthier, Prince of Wagram, where the mi- nister now resides, and the business of the Foreign Office is transacted. Passing by this into the rue de la Paix, the cleanest, and the widest, of the trading streets of Paris, the visitor will ob- serve on the left the Hotel du Timbre. — The Stamp-Office occupies a part of the Convent des Capucines, from which the adjacent street and boulevard derive their names. It presents a blank wall to the street, and has not the appearance of a public edifice. SECOND ARRONBISSEMENT. One of the first objects on entering this arrondissement from the Place Vendome is the Marche St. Honore, rue du Marche St. Honore. It was opened in 1809, upon the site of the Convent des Jacobins, so celebrated during the Revolution. The buildings consist of four spacious galleries, for provisions of all sorts, with a foun- tain in the middle of each division. The market is held daily. The rue Neuve des Petits Champs will lead from hence to the rue Mehul, and this again to the place in which is situated the elegant building of the Theatre Ventadour, formerly the Opera Comique. (See Theatres, etc.) By the side of this, the Passage Choiseul, one of the hand- somest in Paris, .will lead the visitor into the rue Neuve St. Augustin ; at the western end of which will be found the Fontaine de Louis le Grand, at the angle formed by the rue de la Michodiere and the rue du Port Mahon. — This beautiful fountain was erected in 1712, and rebuilt in 1828. CIMETIERE DE MONTMARTRE. 205 It consists of two columns, having between them a niche, in which is a naiad in the act of striking a dolphin with a trident. The capitals, cornices, and entablature, are ornamented with figures of fishes, shells, aquatic plants, etc. The basin, formed of a single mass of stone, is groined to represent an immense shell. The following was the inscription : — Piegnante Carolo X. Pristinum fontem angustiore area jam amplificala, Communi utilitati urbisque ornamento, In majus restituerunt praefectus et aediles Anno M.DCGC. XX. VIII. but the first line of it is now effaced. A little beyond is the Hotel Richelieu, 30, rue Neuve St. Augustin, built in 1707, after the designs of Pierre Leve. It was bought in 1757 by Marshal de Richelieu, who adorned it with the most rich and elegant objects of the arts. Upon the gardens several streets have been formed. The front is of great beauty, and the whole is a very good specimen of the domestic magnifi- cence of that epoch. On passing up the rue Louis le Grand, the visitor comes to the western end of the Boulevard des Italiens ; where he will remark the fantastic front of the Bains Chinois. This esta- blishment, besides baths, combines the comforts of a restau- rant and cafe. From hence the rue de la Chaussee d'Antin leads to the rue de Glichy, where, on the eastern side, not far from the barrier, is the new prison for debtors; a plain building, almost entirely hid from the street by a high wall and a simple gateway. (See Prisons.) Beyond this, at 82, in the same street, is the Jardin de Tivoli, the best of the public gardens for fetes, dances, etc. (See Theatres, Gardens, etc.) The stranger, by slightly prolonging his walk, and by going outside of the Barriere de Clichy, will come into the airy and agreeable suburb known by the name of Les Bati- gnolles. On turning to the east, and following the exterior boulevard for a short distance, he will arrive at the Cimetiere de Montmartre. — This spot was formerly a gypsum quarry; and the irregularity of the ground, resulting from that circumstance, gives it a picturesque and romantic appearance. It was the first established after the suppres- 18 206 SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. sion of burial-places in the city, and was originally named Champs de Repos. The visitor, in making the tour of the cemetery, should ascend the high ground on the right, which affords an enchanting view of a deep hollow beneath, in which the poplar, the cypress, the lilac, and the honeysuckle flourish over the graves of the mouldering dead. Descending at the extremity of the lofty ground, he arrives at a stone cross, having on the left an elevation on which are handsome monuments of the families of Voyer d'Argenson, d'Aguesseau, de Segur, and Seveste. He should then keep along the avenue next the wall, at the extremity of which, from the sandy elevation, the common trenches are seen at the outer boundary. By proceeding down one avenue and up the other , always making the stone cross his point of return, he will survey all the monuments in the ground, and his attention will frequently be arrested by epitaphs breathing the effusions of kindred and friendly tenderness. Amidst a vast multitude of simple grave-stones, he will meet with a considerable numkr of elegant monuments in the form of antique tombs, columns, and small temples, variously ornamented. The most promi- nent object in the cemetery is a lofty stone obelisk, surmounted by a cross, erected to the memory of a Duchess de Montmo- rency. Near it is a small tomb erected to the memory of Prince Ernest of Saxe Cobourg, who died at Paris in 1832. The view from hence is exceedingly beautiful. The stranger should not fail to visit this cemetery, as, except Pere la Chaise, it is the most picturesque and rich in ornaments. The Eng- lish visitor's attention, in the course of his perambulations, will frequently be arrested by monumental inscriptions in his native tongue to the memory of his own countrymen. On returning from this spot, the Barriere Blanche will lead the visitor by the rue Blanche to the Poste aux Chevaux, at the corner of the rue Pigale. This large establishment is well arranged, and carefully kept; it contains a farriery, large sheds for fodder, corn, etc., the director's house, and other offices, besides the immense stables. The total number of horses belonging to it is 400. Strangers who desire it are readily admitted. In this part of the town the houses, built in the style of villas, many of them surrounded by good gardens, and on the hill-side overlooking Paris, form a most delightful quarter of the capital. ST. VINCENT DE PAULE. 207 Eastward of this, at the end of the rue St. Lazare, is Notre Dame de Lorette, district church of the second ar- rondissement.(l) It consists of a nave and two aisles, with a semicircular projecting end, over which there is a small Italian tower. The portico is composed of four columns of the Corinthian order, and the pediment, surmounted by statues, contains a group of the Virgin and Child, with adoring Angels. It is built like one of the ancient basilics of Rome : the wall of the high altar is adorned with scriptural figures on a gold ground ; and each lateral altar with paint- ings of saints by the principal artists of the day. The columns are of polished stone, and the ceilings richly ornamented. This edifice, ornamented with the greatest elegance, cost l,800,000fr. Behind this church there is a new quarter of Paris, called La Nouvelle Athenes, well worthy of the stranger's attention, for the elegance and comfort of the houses. The rue des Martyrs will conduct him to the Abattoir de Montmartre. — This structure is situated between the rues Rochechouart, de la Tour d'Auvergne, and des Martyrs, and the wall of Paris. The architect was M. Poitevin, under whose direction it was begun in 1811. It occupies a spot 389 yards in length by 140 in breadth. The visitor may now descend by the rue Rochechouart, or by the rue du Faubourg Poissonniere, in the latter of which, on the hill side, is the large circular laboratory of the French Gas Light Company, besides other manufactories. In the rue Montholon, at the eastern end, is St. Vincent de Paule, district church of the 5th arrondisse- ment. This small chapel contains nothing worthy of notice except the altar-piece, representing the apotheosis of the phi- lanthropist to whom it is dedicated, and who was canonized in 1737. There is also a portrait of the same personage over the sacristy door.(2) (i) The small church, known by this name, stands in the rue du Faubourg Montmartre : it was built in 1646, but contains nothing worthy of notice. (a) A deviation is here made from the limits of this arrondisse- ment by introducing a notice of some of the objects that lie out of it; but this the visitor will find calculated for his convenience ; that portion of the third arrondissement which lies north of the Boulevard containing very few objects of interest. 208 SECOND ARROHDISSEMENT. A splendid church, begun during the reign of Charles X., on a rising ground in the rue Lafayette, is now being erected, and will replace the building just mentioned. The exterior presents an ample portico of the Ionic order with double ranges of columns, and pilasters, while intervening windows go round the whole of the edifice. A second story or lofty attic rises from the body of the building, and the effect of the whole is bold and simple. It is expected to be roofed in within the present year. Behind this church is a large open space of ground, as yet unbuilt on, called the Clos St. Lazare, from its having been once the property of the convent of the Lazarists in the rue du Faubourg St. Denis. From hence there is a very pic- turesque view of the heights of Montmartre and over Paris. In the rue du Faubourg Poissonniere, at the corner of the rue Lafayette, is a large stone barrack for infantry ; the cen- tral compartment of the front of which is ornamented with military trophies. Lower down in the same street, on the western side, is No. 11, the Garde-Meuble dela Couronne.— Formerly there existed near the Louvre a building where the furniture, jewels, etc. of the crown were deposited. In 17G0, when the two edifices were erected on the north side of the Place Louis XV. (Piace de la Concorde), that nearest to the Tuilcries was destined to receive these valuable objects. At the Revolution, the articles deposited at the Garde-Meuble were of immense value. In the night of September 16, 1792, a robbery was committed, but most of the stolen objects were afterwards recovered. The most costly articles, however, were dispersed during the troubles of that period. Under Napoleon the building in the Place Louis XV. was devoted to the residence and offices of the minister of the marine, and the Garde-Meuble was esla- blished at 6, rue des Champs -fllysees, from whence it was removed in 1826 to the rue du Faubourg Poissonniere. It contains all the superfluous furniture of the crown, which is of great value and elegance, the crown jewels, and other precious articles. An inspection of its contents would be very interest- ing, both to the antiquary and the general visitor ; but it is understood that the public are not admitted, and a permission will be obtained, if at all, only with great difficulty. Annexed to this building is the Conservatoire de Musique, and the Salle des Menus Plaisirs, a small theatre, the use of which is some- times granted for concerts and balls. BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS. 209 There arc several very handsome houses in the rue du Faubourg Poissonniere; particularly No. 60, the gateway of which, flanked by bold Ionic columns, is one of the most stalely in Paris. At the corner of the rue d'Enghien is an- other splendid mansion, now inhabited by the Director of the Customs ; behind it are vast warehouses, which serve as the central depot of the customs. The rue Bergere, leading into the rue du Faubourg Monlmartre, will bring the visitor to the Boulevard Montmartre. Here the Hotel de Montmorenci, with its gardens, formerly occupied the ground where now stands the Passage des Panoramas the rue Neuve Vivienne, etc. Nothing now remains of this once-splendid residence of one of the noblest families in France. On the southern side of the Boulevard Montmartre is the pretty little Theatre des Varietes. (See Theatres, etc.) Beyond is the Boulevard bes Italiens, one of the most fashionable lounges in Paris. On the north side is Tortoni's, the rendezvous, during the morning and evening, of specu- lators in the public funds, who congregate off change hours in front of this celebrated Cafe, and form what is hence called La Petite Bourse. Some well-known restaurants, much fre- quented by the fashionables of Paris, are on this Boulevard. In the rue Lepelletier is the Academie Royale de Musigue, and on the opposite side of the Boulevard is the rue Favart, leading to the Italian Opera. (See Theatres, etc.) Behind the former of these two theatres, in the rue Pinon, is a large building, roofed with curious elliptical arches, for- merly used as a warehouse for the customs, but shortly to be converted into a market. Leaving the Boulevard des Italiens, the visitor will find, at the corner of the rue de Richelieu, the Hotel Fr as cati, a cele- brated gaming-house, the second in Paris in point of re- spectability. The company is called select, and ladies are admitted. The stranger is recommended to examine the fronts of the houses, erected in 1836, at the top of this street, which arc remarkable for their magnificence, and then to pass, by the rue St. Marc, into the rue Neuve Vivienne, where he will find the architecture of the new houses still more splendid. The richness of their highly-decoralcd fronts is very well worthy of being carefully noticed. The shops of this quarter are also fitted up with great elegance and good taste, and in 18, / 210 SECOND ARRONDISSRMENT. this respect are unequalled by those of any other capital. Of this a proof may be had by the visitor in the Passage des Panoramas, which forms a series of arcades that rival the Palais Royal, and which cannot fail of being as strongly attractive to him as they are to the native of Paris. The rue Neuve Yivienne leads to the Place de la Bourse, and in the street of the same name the handsome architecture of the houses, and the elegance of the shops, speak strongly to the prosperous state of commerce in the capital. On the west side of this place is the Theatre de V Opera Comique. (See Theatres, etc.) In the middle is The Exchange, or La Bourse. — The capital of France, though rich in other public buildings, was until within a few years destitute of so useful a building as an Exchange. Meet- ings of merchants for purposes of commercial intercourse were held regularly for the first lime in 1724, at the HotelMazarin, rue Neuve des Petits Champs, the residence of Law, the financier. During the Pvevolution they removed their meet- ings to the Church des Petits Peres, then to the Palais Royal, and next to a temporary building in the rue Feydeau. The want, however, of an edifice specially devoted to commercial operations was much felt; and the suppression of the con- vent des Filles St. Thomas afforded a site in every respect adapted for such a construction. M. Brongniart was charged to furnish plans for an Exchange, and the first stone was laid on the 24th of March, 1808. The works proceeded with ac- tivity till 1814, when they were suspended ; they were subsequently resumed, and this sumptuous structure was completed in 1826. Brongniart dying in 1813, the works proceeded under the direction of Labarre. The form of tho Exchange is a parallelogram, of 212 feet by 126. It is sur- rounded by a peristyle of 66 Corinthian columns, supporting an entablature and an attic, and forming a covered gallery, which is approached by a flight of steps extending the whole width of the western front. To the intercolumniations cor- respond two ranges of arched windows, separated by a doric entablature, and surmounted by a decorated frieze. Over the entrance is inscribed :— Bourse et Tribunal de Commerce. The roof of this magnificent edifice is entirely formed of iron and copper. The Salle de la Bourse, in the centre of the building, on the ground floor, is 116 feet in length, by 76 in breadth. It is of the Doric order, and is surrounded by THE EXCHANGE. 211 arcades, the basemen Is of which, as well as the sides of the room, are formed of marble. Between the arcades are in- scribed, in bronze letters, the names of the principal mercan- tile cities in the world. The roof, which rises in a coving form, has a large sky-light in the centre. It is remarkably rich in sculpture, and is adorned with monochrome paintings of a grey colour, in imitation of marble bas-reliefs, the figures of which are about 10 feet in height. Their number is 16, five on each side, and three at each end. They were execu- ted by M. Abel de Pujol and M. Meynier. The subjects are as follow : — On the left or north side : — Commercial France accepting the Tribule of the four parts of the World — Europe — Asia — the town of Nantes — that of Rouen. In front of the principal entrance : — The city of Paris delivering keys to the God of Commerce, and inviting Commercial Justice to enter the walis prepared for her(l)' — the town of Lille — that of Bor- deaux. On the right :— The Union of Commerce and the Arts giving birth to the prosperity of the State — Africa — America — Lyons — Bayonne. Above the entrance : — The City of Paris receiving from the Nymph of the Seine and the Genius of the Ourcq the productions of Abundance — Strasbourg — Mar- seilles. All these pictures are of admirable execution and design. The pavement of this room, which will contain 2,000 persons, is entirely of marble. At the eastern end of this salle is a circular space railed off for the convenience of the agents dc change, who alone are admitted within it; there is a communication from it with their hall of business. To the right are rooms for the committee and syndicate of the agents de change, and the courtiers de commerce, as well as the hall of meeting for the latter. On the left a grand stair- case leads to a spacious gallery, supported by Doric columns, and to the Hall of the Tribunal of Commerce, with its accom- panying chambers and waiting-rooms. The roof of this hall is beautifully painted with suitable designs. From this gallery a corridor, as on the ground floor, extends round the salle, and communicates with the Chamber of Commerce, the Court of Bankruptcy, and other public offices. From hence the best view of the interior is to be obtained. The hours of trans- acting business are from 1 to 5, but the galleries are open to (i) Previous to the Revolution of i83o the subject of this com- partment was, Charles X, presenting the New Exchange to the city of Paris. 212 SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT* the public from an early hour in the morning. Ladies were for- merly admitted into the Bourse as well as men, but from their excessive gambling in the funds they are not now allowed to enter the building during the hours of business. This sump- tuous edifice may well serve as a model for all erections of the same nature : thetotal cost of its erection was 8,149,000 fr. The rue des Filles St. Thomas leads from the Place de la Bourse to the rue Vivienne, where, at No. 18, will be found the Libraries and News Rooms of Messrs. A. and W. Galig- nani and Go. At this European Establishment is published the daily English Journal, Galignani's Messenger, so well known throughout the Continent. Opposite this house is the rue Colbert, leading to the rue Richelieu. A little way down this street, towards the south, on an open space called the Place Louvois, is A new and neat Fountain, called by the name of the place. On this spot the French Opera-house formerly stood ; but, on the Due de Berri being assassinated at the door of that theatre in 1820, it was determined that the building should be razed ; and accordingly the municipality of Paris voted funds for erecting an expiatory monument on the site. Louis XVIII. refused to sanction th#s measure, which, however, was carried into execution by Charles X. The Chapel was never finished ; it was intended to be very magnificent, and to contain a monument of the Duke. After the revolution of 1830 ? the works connected w ith the completion of the building were suspended, and in 1835 this chapel followed the fate of its predecessor, the opera-house. The remains of the edi- fice having been removed, the site was planted by the Muni- cipality, and in the midst of the area a bronze fountain erected, the estimated cost of which is 100,090 fr. It con- sists of an ample basin formed of stone, out of which rises a pedestal of marble, with bronze bas-reliefs, supporting a basin of bronze, edged with heads, that are pierced for the water. In the centre of this stand bronze female figures, bearing a basin surmounted by a patera, out of which the water flows, and falls over the figures into the basins beneath. The long inelegant-looking edifice in front of this Place, on the eastern side of the street, No. 58, is the BiBLiOTiiiiQUE du Roi. — From the introduction of Chris- tianity into France to the time of St. Louis, the few books existing in the kingdom belonged to the numerous convents fclBLIOTHEQUE DU ROI. 213 Which had been successively established, and were confined to copies of the Bible, treatises of the fathers, canons, missals, and a few Greek and Latin authors. St. Louis caused copies to be made of all the conventual manuscripts, and arranged them in a room attached to the Sainte Chapelle. This col- lection of books the King bequeathed to several monasteries. From St. Louis to King John, we have no historical notice of any royal Library, and even that possessed by the latter monarch did not exceed eight or ten volumes. Charles V., his successor, who patronized literature, caused many works to be copied, and others to be translated ; with these, and some books that were presented to him, he formed a library consisting of 910 volumes. They were deposited in a tower of the Louvre, called la Tour de la Librairie, «and consisted of illuminated missals, and other religious works, accounts of miracles, lives of saints, and treatises upon astrology, geo- mancy, and palmistry. In order that literary persons might at all times use this library, a silver lamp was constantly burning. This collection was partly scattered and carried away during the reign of Charles VI. The remainder dis- appeared under the regency of the Duke of Bedford, who purchased it for 1,200 livres, and sent the greater part to England. Louis XI. collected the books scattered in the various royal palaces, to which he added several oilier col- lections ; and, printing having been invented in his reign, he bought all books that were published. Charles VOL , in 1495, added to this collection the books he had brought from Naples after his conquest of that kingdom. The Princes John and Charles d'Angouleme, upon their return from England, after twenty-five years' captivity, founded two. libraries, the one at Blois, the other at Angouleme, with books, collected during their residence in England, including most of those carried off by the Duke of Bedford. In 1496 Louis XII. caused the Louvre Library to be transported to Blois, and also added to the collection the libraries of the Sforzi and Visconti, from Pavia, Petrarch's collection, and the cabinet of Gruthuse, a Flemish gentleman. In 1515, Francis!, had the whole trans- ported to Fontaincbleau, and the catalogue of that date gives, as the total of the collection, 1890 volumes, amongst which were 900 printed volumes, and 38 or 39 Greek MSS. brought from Naples and deposited at Blois by Lascaris. Francis I. transferred the library of Blois to Fontainebleau, in 1544. J14 SECOND ARRONMSSEMEtfT. This monarch added greatly to the royal library, and first began the formation of the celebrated numismatic collection. Henry II. decreed, that a bound copy on vellum of every book printed should be deposited in the royal library. In 1527, by the confiscation of the goods of the Connetable de Bourbon, the library was augmented ; but it suffered con- siderably from the Ligueurs, who carried off some of the most valuable manuscripts. Catherine de Medicis bequeathed to the royal library a collection of medals and manuscripts which she had brought from Florence. In 1594, Henry IV. ordered the library to be transferred from Fonlainebleau to Paris, and placed in the College de Clermont (now College de Louis le Grand), which was left unoccupied by the Jesuits, who had recently been expelled from France. That order being re- called in 1604, their college was restored, and the king's library transferred to a room in the convent of the Cor- deliers. Under Louis XIII. the royal library was enriched by many valuable collections, and removed from the convent of the Cordeliers to a spacious house in the rue de la Harpe ; it then consisted of 16,746 volumes in manuscript and printed books. During the reign of Louis XIV., and the administra- tion of Colbert and Louvois, the treasures of the royal library were augmented beyond any thing previously known; at the same time it was rendered accessible to the public. The house in the rue de la Harpe being found much too small, Louis XIV. formed the design of transferring the library to the Louvre ; but, in 1666, Colbert bought two houses adjoin- ing his residence in the rue Vivienue, to which the books were removed. This extensive collection, daily augmented by presents, purchases, etc., contained at the death of Louis XIV., in 1715, more than 70,000 volumes. Louvois had formed the determination to establish the royal library in the Place Vendome, but his death defeated the project. Under the regency of the Duke of Orleans, the treasures of the library continuing to increase, and the houses in the rue Vivienne being found inadequate, a resolution was formed to remove them elsewhere. In the rue de Richelieu the immense hotel formerly occupied by Cardinal Mazarin embraced the entire space between the rue Vivienne, the rue de Richelieu, the rue lXeuve des Petits Champs, and the rue Colbert. Cardinal Mazarin having married his neiceHortensia deMancini, in 1661, to the D uke de la Meilleraie, constituted him his sole heir and BIBLIOTHEQUE DU ROI. 215 residuary legatee, upon condition of bearing his arms and name. Upon the death of the cardinal the palace was divided. That part towards the rue de Richelieu came into the possession of the Marquis de Mancini, nephew of the cardinal, and was called Hotel de Nevers. The other part, facing the rue Neuve des Petits Champs, fell to the share of the Duke de Mazarin (de la Meilleraie), and bore the name of Hotel de Mazarin, till 1719, when it was bought by the regent, and given to the India Company. The exchange was afterwards established there, and subsequently the royal treasury, where the latter remained till 1829, when it was removed to the new structure in the rue de Rivoli. Upon the failure of Law's financial sys- tem, in 1721, the Hotel de Nevers, in which his bank had been established, being left unoccupied, the regent deter- mined to make it the seat of the royal library, which was accordingly transferred thither from the houses in the rue Vivienne ; and there it has remained ever since, the buildings of the Hotel de Mazarin having been annexed to it, upon the removal of the treasury. Its stores were greatly augmented under Louis XV., at whose death the number of printed volumes amounted to more than 100,000. Upon the sup- pression of the monasteries at the Revolution, all the manu- scripts and printed volumes contained in them were trans- ported to the library, which took the title of Bibliotheque Nationale. The number then added is computed at nearly 100,000 volumes. Whilst Napoleon was first consul, it was enriched by some of the valuable treasures of the Vatican, and other libraries of Italy. Upon the occupation of Paris by the allied armies, in 1815, the greater part of these were restored, and the library, which was then called Bib- liotheque Imperiale, resumed its name of Bibliotheque du Roi. An annual grant is made by the government to the royal library, for the purchase of books, manuscripts, engravings, and antiqui- ties. The building which contains this splendid collection is entirely destitute of ornament on the outside. Its length is 540 feet, and its breadth 130. The front is a plain wall, pierced with windows, most of them now filled up. The entrance leads into a court, 300 feet in length, by 90 in breadth, sur- rounded with piles of building, which are not without dig- nity and elegance. They present two styles of architecture, the one that of the ancient Hotel de Nevers, and the other that of buildings erected about the year 1740. A hand- 216 SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. some staircase to the right leads to the rooms open lo the public, and the cabinet of medals and antiques. The books are kept in cases with wire grating, which no one is allowed to open except the persons attached to the establishment. The library was formerly divided into five sections, viz. — 1, printed books ; 2, manuscripts ; 3, medals and antiques; 4, engravings ; 5, title-deeds and genealogies. The sections are now four, the latter having been suppressed during the Revo- lution, and since annexed to the section of manuscripts. The printed works occupy the ground floor, the first floor, and se- veral galleries above, but the rooms of the first floor alone are open to the public. The collection at present consists of 900,000 printed volumes, 80,000 MSS., and 1,000,000 of historical papers. In 1835, it received an addition of 15,000 volumes, besides pamphlets. They are arranged in five divi- sions, as follow : — 1, theology; 2, jurisprudence ; 3, history; 4, philosophy ; 5, belles-lettres, according to the usual sys- tem published in the Bibliographie Instructive, by Debure. Tables, with inkstands, are placed in the middle of the rooms for the convenience of readers and writers, who must furnish themselves with paper and pens. No conversation is permitted. The way to procure a book is to write its title, and hand it to one of the librarians. The tables are filled by persons of all classes, in pursuit of knowledge, and frequently by ladies. In a square room, called le Petit Salon, which contains the editions of the 15th century, is a bust of Louis XVIII., in bronze, and in the centre of the transversal gal- lery, stands the French Parnassus, by Titon du Tillet — a pal- try production, in bronze. At the end of this gallery is a very remarkable representation of the pyramids of Ghiseh, in Egypt, and the surrounding country, done on an exact scale, which is marked upon the plan. In this gallery are busts of Jerome Bignon, and J. P. Bignon, successively librarians. It also contains a beautiful basin of porphyry, brought from the abbey of St. Denis, and said to have been used at the baptism of Clovis. In the adjoining gallery is a representation of the system of the universe, executed at Milan, by Rouy ; and at the extremity is a statue in plaster of Voltaire, seated in an arm-chair, by Houdon, which served as a model for the mar- ble statue in the Theatre Francais. This gallery leads to a room in which are two immense globes, begun at Venice, by Pierre Coronelli, by order of the Cardinal d'Estrees, who, in BIBLIOTHJtiQUE DU R0I, tiT 1683, presented them to Louis XIV., to whom he had dedi- cated them. They are nearly 12 feet in diameter, hut arc more remarkable for their size than for their exactness. Th0 ground floor is filled with modern editions, printed on vellum and large paper, or copies remarkable for their binding. The greatest typographical curiosity in this library is the most ancient printed book with a date ; it is a Psalter, printed at Mentz in 1457, by Fust and Schoeffer. The Bible called Ma- zarin, also in this library, was printed in 1456, with cot- metal types. The manuscripts are deposited in several rooms, and a gal- lery on the first and second floors, but those of the first floor alono are open to the public. They consist of about 80,000 volumes, in Greek, French, Latin, Oriental, and other languages, including 30,000 which relate to the history of France. The catalogue o i the manuscripts alone fills 24 volumes, besides ample supple- ments to each. This section of the library once possessed the most ancient manuscript known, viz. the Virgil of the Vatican &f the fourth century ; which, together with other valuable manu- scripts from the Vatican and the library of St. Mark, at Venice, were restored in 1815. After passing through several rooms, the stranger enters a superb gallery, which existed in the time of Cardinal Mazarin. Its length is 140 feet, and its breadth 22. The ceiling, painted in fresco, by Romanelli, in 1651, represents various subjects of fabulous history, divided into compartments. In this gallery are preserved very valuable and curious manuscripts. Among them is a Statement of re- ceipts and expenses under Philippe le Bel, in the 14th cen- tury, on waxen tablets; the manuscripts of Galileo; letters from Henry IV. to Gabrielle d'Estrees; the prayer-books of St. Louis and Anne of Brittany, and one which belonged in suc- cession to Charles V., Charles IX., and Henry III., and bears their signatures; all beautifully written on vellum, and richly illuminated ; the manuscript of Telemachus in Fenelon's own hand; memoirs of Louis XIV., in his own hand; a ma- nuscript of Josephus ; a volume of 300 pages containing the names of all the victims of B.obespierre, etc. The most an cient manuscripts now existing in this collection, are some prayer-books of the fifth and sixth centuries. Among the fo- reign manuscripts are some Persian, Indian, Arabic, Chinese, and Siamese, remarkable for their beauty. Various specimens of the autography of many of the most celebrated personages 19 218 SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. J of French history are here preserved : of Francis I., Henry IV., Louis XIV., Turenne, Mme. de Maintenon, Voltaire, Racine, Corneille, Boileau, Bossuet, etc. The Cabinet of Medals and Antiques, which forms a distin- guished part of this sumptuous establishment, is situated at the extremity of the principal gallery on the first floor. The total number of medals and coins is computed at 80,000. Among them are some which are extremely scarce, and some which are unique. It likewise possesses many of the earliest Roman coins, and specimens of modern medals. Among the antiquities, which are very numerous and valuable, is the su- perb collection of the Count de Caylus. At the Revolution, alt the antiquities contained in the treasury of the Sainte Chapelle and inth at of the Abbey of St. Denis were added to this cabinet. It is worthy of observation that during the disorders and pillage of the Revolution, the Royal library, which contained so much metallic treasure, was constantly respected. In the cabinet may be seen many curious Egyptian antiquities, some remarkable objects found in the tomb of King Childeric, the bronze chair of King Dagobert, the famous vase of the Ptolemys, the celebrated cameo representing the apo- theosis of Augustus, the sword of the order of Malta, the seal of Michael Angelo, the silver disks found in the Rhone in 1656, called the shields of Hannibal and Scipio, and some antique busts. But the most precious curiosities in the col- lection are, the beautiful antique cameos and intaglios, exe- cuted with an exquisite finish which has not been equalled in modern times. In the cabinet is a marble bust, by Houdon, of the Abbe Barthelemy, formerly keeper of the medals. On the ground floor are some ancient stone monuments (among which is the celebrated zodiac of Denderah), as well as some mummies, papyrus, inscriptions, and other antiquities. In these rooms the archaeological lectures are delivered. The Cabinet of Engravings occupies several rooms of the entresol, and is approached by a small staircase to the right, at the angle of the court. It was founded by Colbert, who, in 1667, bought the Abbe de Marolle's collection of plates, comprised in 440 volumes, containing about 125,000 prints. To this acquisition were afterwards added other collections: — that of Gaignieres, in 1711; of Beringhen, in 1731 ; of Mar- shal d'Uxelles, in 1753 ; of Begon, in 1770; and several others less considerable. The number of plates at present com- BIBLIOXHEQUE £>U lit I. 219 posing the cabinet may be computed at 1,200,000, contained in 0,500 volumes or portfolios. They are classed in the fol- lowing order viz. 1, galleries, cabinets, and collections of sovereign* and private individuals, rare specimens in the art of drawing and engraving; 2, the Italian and southern schools; 3, the German schools ; 4, the French schools; 5, engravers; 6, sculpture; 7, antiquities; 8, architecture; 9, the physico mathematical sciences; 10, natural history; It, the academic arts; 12, arts and mechanics; 13, encyclopedias; 14, por- traits; 15, costumes; 16, historical prolegomena; 17, his- tory ; 18, hierology ; 19, mythology ; 20, fictions ; 21, travels; 22, typography ; 23, bibliography. Persons desirous of exa- mining some of the volumes should ask, in the schools of Italy, for the works of Michael Angelo, Raphael, Titian, Cor- reggio, theCaracci, Dominic Zampieri, and Guido; — in those of Germany, Albert Durer and Holbein; — in those of the Ne- therlands, Lucas Van Leyden, Rembrandt, Rubens, and Van- dyck;— in those of France, Poussin,Le Brun, Le Sueur, and Rigaud. Amongst the foreign engravers, the works of Marc Antoine Raimondi, Hollar, Crispin de Pas, Goltzius, Bloe- mart, and Romain de Hogue ; among the French, those tu Callot, Duplessis Bertaux, Mellan, Silvestre, Nanteuil, Pi- cart, Le Glerc, Edciinck, Audran, Le Bas, Wille, and Mo* reau. In natural history are many plates of birds and plants, beautifully coloured, such as the pigeons of Madame Knip, the birds of Paradise of Levaillant, the flowers of Prevost, the lilies and roses of Redoute. The portraits, to the number of 55,000, are divided in each country according to the rank or profession of the individuals, and are classed in chronological or alphabetical order. The series of the costumes of various countries and different ages cannot be viewed without inte- rest. The history of France fills eighty portfolios- The to- pographical collection is very curious; the topography of Pa- ris alone occupies 54 portfolios. The Cabinet of Engravings consists of several rooms ; in the first of which is a selection of very fine engravings, in frames. All the aqua-fortis en- gravings are placed in the compartment of the first window; the engravings of Marc Antoine Raimondi, together with those of the Italian and German masters, are to be found in that of the second window, or the first in front. All the other parts of the first room, and of the second (called the gallery), are occupied by fine plates of the age of Louis XIV., both those f!20 SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. published in foreign countries and in France, as well as proofs of the finest productions of modern French engravers. In the middle of the gallery are tables and chairs, for the conve- nience of those who wish to inspect the engravings. The at- tendants are always ready to supply any volume that may be asked for, upon the person applying to one of the libra- rians. The royal library is open for students, authors, etc., from ten till two, every day, except Sundays and holidays. Visi- tors are admitted to the library as well as to the cabinet of medals and antiques, and the cabinet of engravings, from ten till two on Tuesdays and Fridays. The vacation commences 1st September, and ends on 15th October, during which pe- ls iod the library is closed. Literary persons, well recom- in ended, are allowed to have books out of the library. Further to the south in the same street, at the corner of the rue Traversiere, is the Fontaine de Richelieu, erected in 1671, and bearing the following inscription by Santeuil, ailuding to Cardinal Richelieu's office of grand master of navigation. Qui quonam magnum tenuit moderamen aquarum Rickelius fonti plauderet ipse novo. The visitor will now proceed, along the rue St. Honore, to St. Roce, 296, rue St. Honore, parish church of the 2d arrondissement.— -The first stone of this church was laid by Louis XIV. and his mother Anne of Austria in 1653 ; but the works proceeded slowly till 1721, when the Financier Law gave 100,000 livres towards the completion of the edifice, which however did not finally take place till 1740. The ori- ginal designs of the church w ere by Lemercier., those of the portal by De Cotte. The front is approached by a flight of steps extending the whole breadth of the church, and famous for many a revolutionary scene transacted on them. The crowd mounted them to see Marie Antoinette led to execution; Bonaparte cleared them with his cannon before his consulate, and in 1830, a stand was made on them against the gendar- merie. (1) The portal is adorned with two ranges of columns of the Doric and Corinthian orders, surmounted by a pediment and cross : it is 84 feet in breadth, and 91 feet in height to the (i) Bonaparte struck the name of St. Roch out of the calendar, to make room for St, Napoleon. ST. ROtH. 221 summit of the cross. The body of the church is slightly cru- ciform, with transepts only a few feet in depth ; the length of the nave is 90 feet, that of the choir 69, their breadth 42 ; aisles with chapels run along each side. The interior is plain, of the Doric order, and has the piers of the arches cased with marble at their bases. On one of the pillars that support the organ gallery is a mural monument erected by the Duke of Orleans, in 1821, to the memory of Corneille ; on the other is a similar tablet, containing the names of the benefactors of the church, and distinguished persons buried there, whose tombs were destroyed at the Revolution : among them, that of the celebrated Abbe de l'fepee, founder of the deaf and dumb institution. In the third chapel to the right hand, on entering, are part of the monuments restored after the Revolution, anil among them that of the infamous Cardinal Dubois, whose figure is seen in a posture of prayer ; the others are to the Duke de Crequi, Lesdiguieres, and Mignard, the painter. In the opposite chapel, on the left hand, are the monuments of Le- notre, the planter of the gardens of Versailles ; Maupertuis, the Marechal d'Asfeld, and the Count d ilarcourt. The Chapelle des Fonts contains a group in white marble of the Raptism of Christ, by Lemoine ; and the chapel of St. Louis has a curious picture, presented to it by the knights of St. Louis ; in the next, is one of the Virgin appealing to Antonio Botta. The transepts contain 4 statues and two good pictures : one by Vien, the Preaching of St. Denis ; the other by Doyen, the Cure of the Mai des Ardens in 1230, through the intercession of Ste. Genevieve. The choir presents little that is worthy of notice except a second organ, which, on days of ceremony, alternates with the large and fine-toned instrument over the principal door. Rehind the high altar is a monument of ce- dar of Lebanon, richly ornamented with gilt bronze and. mouldings. It rests upon a basement of costly variegated mar- ble, and contains the relics belonging to the church. The di- visions in which the relics are classed are formed by fluted columns and pilasters. Rehind the choir is the Lady chapel, of an elliptical form, decorated with Corinthian pilasters, and surmounted by a dome painted in fresco by Pierre. On the altar is a group in white marble, by Anguier, which formerly adorned the altar of the Val de Grace. It represents the in- fant Jesus in the manger, accompanied by the Virgin and Jo- seph, and is a fine piece of sculpture. The altar is covere 1 19. 222 THIRD ARRONDISSEMENT. with a beautiful cloth worked with the needle. Four pictures at the entrance to this chapel are worthy of attention, namely, the liaising of Lazarus, by Vien; Christ raising the daughter of Jairus, by Deicrme ; Christ driving the money-changers from the Temple, by Thomas; and Christ Messing little children, by Vien. In the aisle round this chapel are several pictures, of which those most entitled to notice are, the triumph of Mordecai, by Jouvenet; Christ bearing his cross; Isaiah, by Leg entire ; and St. John preaching in the wilderness, by Champmartin, a very valuable modern painting. Near the sacristy door is a curious little picture, representing the Virgin in glory, and round her 15 scenes of her own life and that of Christ, Immediately behind the Lady Chapel is that of the Saint Sacrement, which is magnificently fitted up in repre- sentation of the Holy of Holies of the Mosaic tabernacle : all the ornaments of the Jewish ritual are placed there, and the light of day is excluded by curtains of crimson silk. Still further oil is a low vaulted chapel containing the Calvaire, with a figure of Christ by Anguier, that formerly stood over the altar of the Sorbonne. it contains nothing worthy of remark, ex- cept a sketch by one of the old masters of the Italian school. Tins church, though not remarkable for any architectural i*eauiy, is the richest in Paris, and is at present celebrated as beiiig the church of the court; the Queen and the younger ranches of the Royal family very frequently attend service there, and it is one where the rites of the annual festivals are ■performed with great solemnity. On these occasions, the mu- sic and singing are so remarkably good that the affluence of strangers is very considerable, and sometimes excludes the possibility of entrance. In the rue d' Argenteuil, behind the church of St. Roch, at No. 18, is the house where Corneille died. It bears a black slab with an inscription, and has a bust of the poet in the court-yard. THIRD ARRONBISSEMENT. On entering this arrondissement by the rue Neuve desPetiiS Champs, the visitor will find on his left the Passages Yiviennc and Colbert; the latter of which is one of the most elegant in the capital The greater part of the eastern side of the rue KGLISE DES PETITS PERES. 223 Vivienne W$s once occupied by the hotel and gardens of the great Colbert. From hence the visitor will proceed to the Place des Victoires. — This place was formed in 1685, by order of the Duke de la Feuiilade, and its construction was commenced by Predol, after the designs of Mansart. lis form is the segment of a circle, whose diameter is 240 feel. The style of architecture of the surrounding houses is uni- form, consisting of a range of Ionic pilasters, resting upon a basement of arcades, In the centre, was a pedestrian statue, in gilt lead, of Louis XIV., in his coronation robes, treading a Cerberus beneath his feet, and crowned by Victory. At the angles of the pedestal, four bronze figures of nations in chains represented the power of the monarch and the success of his arms. A few days before the fete de la Federation (July 14, 1790), the figures at the angles were removed to the court of the Louvre, from whence they were afterwards transported to the Hotel des Invalides. The statue was destroyed on the 10th of August, 1792, and the place took the name of Place des Victoires Rationales. The bronze bas-reliefs that adorned the pedestal are still preserved in the Louvre. A colossal naked statue of General Desaix, in bronze, was erected here in 1806, but, on account of its shocking public decency, was taken down in 1814, and afterwards melted to form the statue of Henry IV. The present statue of Louis XIV. was modelled by Bosio, on the order ot Louis XViiL, and was inaugurated on the 25th of August 1822 • an invalid who had lived under Louis XIV. being present at the ceremony, it is a work of much excellence. The monarch, habited as a lloman Emperor, though with the perruque of his own age, and crowned with laurel, is well placed on the horse, which is full of vigour and animation. The entire mass, which weighs nearly 16,000 lbs., is merely supported by the hinder legs and tail. The pedestal is decorated with two bas-reliefs, representing the passage of the Rhine by Louis XIV., in 1672, and that mo- narch upon his throne distributing military decorations. On one end is the inscription, Ludovico Magno ; and on the other Ludovicus xvm. Atavo suo. The circular marble pavement out of which the pedestal rises is surrounded by palisades fenced by cast-iron posts. At the north-west corner of this place, a street leads to the Eglise des Petits Peres, or de Notre Dame des Vic- toires, Place des Petits Peres, 1st district church of 3d arrondissement. — A community of barefooted Augustin 224 THIRD ARRONDiSSGMEXT. monks, (1) established in Paris, in 1607, occupied a convent in the rue des Pelils Augustins. Louis XIII. declared himself their founder, in 1(529 ; and, in the same year, laid the founda- tion of a convent contiguous to the spot where the church now stands, and dedicaied the church to Noire Dame des Yic- toires, in commemoration of the victories he had obtained, and particularly of the capture of la Rochelle. This was af- terwards taken down, and the present edifice erected in 1656, after the designs of P. Lemuel. The form of the edifice is a Roman cross ; its length is 133 feet, its breadth 33, and its height 56. The portal was built in 1739, after designs by Cartaud, and presents pilasters of the Ionic and Corinthian orders. The interior is without aisles, but the nave has on each side 6 richly-decorated chapels. In the last chapels to- wards the choir, may be seen the small oratories of the supe- riors of the religious community ; and i S S E 51 ENT. fountain now sends forth its waters. Near this, lo the west, the stranger will find The Hotel des Ferries, formerly de Seguier , 55, rue de Grenelle St. Honore. — Little now remains of this hotel, once the residence of the Chancellor Seguier, and the place of meeting of the Academie Franchise till 1673. It is now used as a diligence-offlce, and as the bureaux of several journals, etc. The rue du Bouloy, famous for its waggon and diligence offices, and the rue Coquilliere, will lead to the rue Croix des Petits Champs, and so to The Banque de France, which stands in, and occupies, one side of the rue de la Yrilliere. — It was formerly the hotel of the Count de Toulouse, and was erected by Mansard, for the Duke de la Vrilliere, in 1720. In an architectural point of \>iew it does not possess much interest; the court is sur- rounded with buildings of the stately style prevalent at the time of its erection, and the entrance is under a gateway with Ionic pilasters, surmounted by statues. The numerous and spacious apartments which it contains were formerly deco- rated with a profusion of ornaments. The paintings of a picture-gallery formed by the Count de Toulouse were de- stroyed at the Revolution, but the ceiling, which is very beau- tiful, still exists. FIFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. This arrondissement is divided into two very distinct and unequal parts. The stranger is recommended to begin by that which lies north of the Boulevards, and to examine the first object in the arrondissement which then meets his eye, at the entrance of the rue du Faubourg St. Denis. This is the Porte St. Denis. — This triumphal arch, which stands upon the site of the Porte St. Denis, built under Charles IX., was erected by the city of Paris in 1672, after the designs of Blondel, to celebrate the rapid victories of Louis XIV., who, in the space of two months, subjected forty towns and three provinces to his dominion. It is 72 feet in height ; the prin- cipal arch is 25 feet wide, and 43 in height, and in the piers are two arches, five feet in width by 10 in height. Over the lateral arches are pyramids in relief, which rise to the enta- blature, and are surmounted by globes bearing fleurs-de-lis FOIRE ST. LAURENT** 237 and crowns. Their surfaces are sculptured into military tro- phies, and on those next the city are colossal Ggures; on one side representing Holland, as a woman sitting upon a dead lion ; on the other the Rhine, as a river god holding a rud- der. Those on the side next the faubourg have lions cou- chants and trophies, instead of colossal figures. Above the arch is a bas-relief, representing Louis XIV. on horseback, crossing the Rhine, at Tolhuis ; on the frieze, in bronze let- ters, is Ludovico Magno. The bas-relief of the opposite side represents the taking of Maastricht. In the spandrils of the arch are figures of Fame. Upon tablets placed under the pedestals of the pyramids are four inscriptions by Blonde!. Girardon was at first charged with the sculpture, but, being called to Versailles, it was executed by Michael Anguitr. This monument, which is considered one of the finest woiks of the age of Louis XIV., both for the harmony of its propor- tions, and the admirable execution of its parts, was in such a state of decay at the beginning of the present, century, as to threaten total ruin. Its repair was undertaken, and ably executed, by Cellerier, in 1807. Both this monument and that of the Porte St. Martin have since then become famous by the attack and defence of them, during the Three Days of 1830. On passing up the rue du Faubourg St. Denis, the visitor will find, on the left hand, at No. 117, the ancient convent of the Lazarists, or Priests of the Mission, now converted into a prison for female offenders (see Prisons, etc.). It was once a place of much celebrity, and in remote times, the remains of the kings and queens of France were conveyed to the convent of St. Lazare previous to being transported to St. Denis. The coffin was placed between the two gates of the edifice upon a tomb of stale, where it was surrounded by all the prelates of the kingdom, who, after chaunting the service of the dead, sprinkled holy waler upon it. Opposite to this is the excel- lent establishment of the Maison Royale de Sante (see Public Institutions, Prisons, etc.) ; at the side of which a street leads to the Foire St. Laurent. — This is a newly-erected market, built on speculation by a company, and intended for the sup- ply of this part of the capital, where no other good market exists. It is of an elegant design, being a complete paral- lelogram of two storeys, with covered galleries, and a fountain 238 FIFTH ARRONDISSETVSENT. in the middle of the court. The whole is protected from the weather by lateral windows of ample dimension, while an ingeniously-constructed roof of glass extends over the central court. It is worthy of being visited. From this market the stranger will go to i St. Laurent, parish church of the 5th arrond ssement, Place de la Fidelite, and rue du Faubourg St. Martin. — This church was built in 1429; enlarged in 1548; in great part rebuilt in i 595 ; and had the porch, and probably the Lady chapel, added in 11)22. It is a cruciform church, with double aisles and a circular end, intersected by an elliptical Lady chapel. The exterior offers nothing very remarkable, except the tower with a circular turret on Ihe northern side, some finely-worked tracery of late date on the canopies of the northern door-way, and a semi-classic western front. With- in, the most ancient part of the church is to be found in the northern aisle of the choir ; where the key-stones of the vaulting ribs are boldly sculptured. The nave and choir con- tain nothing very striking except some compartments over the arches of the latter, marking the transition from one style to the other. The key-stones of the vaulting ribs of the nave are the most remarkable architectural ornaments of the church ; they are deep pendent masses of stone sculptured into groups of figures, fruit, etc. There is no triforium gallery, but large clerestory windows with late and plain tracery. The Lady chapel has a dome painted in fresco, and is adorned with Ionic pilasters. In the aisle at the entrance of this chapel, are a good Ecce Homo, and a Virgin; and in a chapel in the north aisle of the nave is a Resurrection of much merit. In the first chapel in the same aisle is an in- scription stating that the church was restored to the purposes of Catholic worship on the 17th Fructidor, an. VIIL, 1800. Mad. Le Gras, who, with St. Vincent de Paule, founded the order of the Filles de la Charile, and died in 1660, was buried in this church. In front of the eastern end of this church is the Hospice des Incurables Hommes, 34, rue des Recollets. — This hospital was established in the ancient convent of the Recollets in 1802, when the Hopilal des Incurables was ap- propriated to females only. The buildings are spacious and airy, and have an extensive garden attached to them. The number of men and male children admissible into this house HOPITAL ST. LOUIS. 239 is 475. The old men employ themselves for their own be- nefit, and those children, whose state admits of it, are com- pelled to occupy themselves in different professions. Strangers are readily admitted. Between this hospital and the Canal St. Martin, is a large charcoal-market. The stranger should now cross the canal, and proceed to the Hopital St. Louis. — This large and magnificent esta- blishment was founded by Henry IV. in 1607, on the repre- sentation of the President Harlay, according to the plans of the architect Ville faux. It is a fine specimen of the architec- ture of the time, consisting of a quadrangle 360 yards by 240, with lofty pavilions in the centre, and at the corner of each face. A wide yard and gardens with subordinate buildings, containing all the adjuncts of an hospital, surround the cen- tral edifice, and outside the whole are a wall, fosse, and gate- ways. It has long been devoted to the treatment of diseases of the skin; and contains 700 beds, with a justly-celebrated establishment of medicated and mineral baths. The wards are 144 feet in length by 24 in breadth, and are il feet high on the ground floor, but from 20 to 25 on the upper storey. On an average, 6,600 invalids are admitted annually ; the mor- tality among whom is by no means great, not exceeding 1 in 16. The number of persons who profit by the baths amounts annually to nearly 25,000 ; and in the course of a single year, as many as 148,000 baths have been given. To this hospital is attached a small chapel, the first ston3 of which was laid by Henry IV. ; a gas apparatus for lighting the whole of the establishment ; and a house for the residence of the Dames de St. Augustin, 40 in number, who attend upon the sick. By an ingenious contrivance, the bones used in the kitchen are boiled in cylinders of steam, and the gelatinous matter ex- tracted ai the rate of 200 litres for every 30 kilos, of bone. The most curious and interesting part, of the dependencies of this hospital is the balhing-eslabl shmenl. In a long room, 50 baths, supplied by the same pipes, produce all the mineral waters that are capable of being imitated, more particularly those of a sulphureous nature. In an adjoining room is a large vapour bath, which admits by distinct apertures eight patients at the same time. Another, of a different construc- tion, with a douche, and partial baths, are also found here; male and female patients are admitted on different days, and 240 FIFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. gratuitous access is given by physicians to the poor. The hos- pital is said to have derived its name from having been origi- nally devoted to the plague, of which St. Louis died at Tunis, in 1270. Strangers are readily admitted. The visitor on leaving the Hopital St. Louis may proceed, if he pleases, hut he is by no means recommended to do so, to the Boyauterie de Montfaucon, which lies a little outside the Barriere du Combat, at the foot of the Butte de Chaumont. This hill, exposed to the north-west, is composed of nearly the same geological formations as the heights of Montmartre, and for a long lime has been quarried for similar purposes. Near the barrier quarries there was formerly a rising mound of masonry, on which stood gibbets, and where executions took place : the bodies were throw n into a charnel house which it contained, and left to decay. Since the abolition of this place of punishment, about the beginning of the last century, so admirably described in the Notre Dame of Victor Hugo, the contents of all the sewers of the houses of Paris have been deposited here : and it is now the spot where most of the night-carts of Paris are emptied. A raised causeway of stone advances between two black and deep pools : along the edges of this the carts, which are enormous tuns placed on wheels, are arranged, and empty their contents into a shelving trough placed a little below the causeway, from whence, after much raking and examination, they fall into the upper pool. Men remain here whole days searching for money, jewels, and other valuable articles, w hich may chance to be found in the sewers, and are sometimes very successful in their search. The contents of the upper pool drain into the second, and from thence into three others successively ; the water escapes, and the solid sediment is cut out and used for manure. By the sides of the upper pool are slaughter houses for horses, where all the worn-out animals of the capital are brought, and where after they arc killed all the parts of their bodies are carefully cut up and separated for purposes of manufacture. The skins, the bones, the blood, and the flesh, are sold for different economical purposes, and considerable profit is made by this disgusting trade. About 16,000 horses, dead or alive, are annually brought to this place. The ex- istence of these establishments and of the receptacles before mentioued, on such a large scale, and in the immediate vici- nity of the town, is a very serious nuisance. Several attempts ENTREPOT DE LA COMPAGNIE DES DOUANES. 241 have been made to remedy it, and the formation of a similar establishment on a larger scale, in the forest of Bondy, has been tried ; but, on account of the distance from Paris, and the expense of transport thereby occasioned, has not been so successful as was expected. Absorbing wells are now being tried in different places, and have promised more fa- vourable results. A new system for the utilizing of the dead bo- dies of horses has also been applied with success. Imme- diately after the animal is killed, and the skin taken off, all the other parts of the body are put into iron cylinders, into which steam is then forced, and the whole kept at a high tem- perature until all the gelatinous matter is extracted. All efflu- vium is thus prevented, and the matter extracted, as well as the refuse, is found to be very valuable for agricultural and other purposes. If the visitor is templed to visit Montfaucon for the purpose of witnessing its dreary horrors, and the revels of the thousands of rats that are its principal tenants, he will be painfully reminded of his approach to the place long before he comes in sight of it. It most injuriously affects the atmo- sphere of the whole neighbourhood, and indeed of distant quarters of Paris, according to the direction of the wind. On the southern bank of the Canal St. Martin is the Entrepot de la Compagnie des Douanes, Place des Ma- rais. — -This establishment, erected in 1834, by a joinl-slock company, for the reception of goods in bond, consists of a spa- cious area bordering upon the Canal St. Martin, in which, be- sides sheds, stand two large warehouses 250 feet in length, with a covered court between, for stowage. They are built of stone with brick arches ; all the wood work of the interior is in oak, and the upright timbers inclose pillars of iron. Each build- ing consists of four storeys, and is perfectly dry and well kept. Sugar, coffee, foreign wines, drugs, jewels, wool, cotton, etc., are the principal goods kept here; they pay a moderate duty for warehouse-room, and if not cleared off in the space of three years become the property of the company. Adjoining to the warehouses is a building w here the Custom-house clerks, etc., have their offices. Strangers are admitted on application at the bureau. Near this in rue des Mara is, No. 40, stands the splendid Pa- norama, a building of very large dimensions. (See Theatres, etc.) At the corner of the same street and the rue Sanson is the Jardin de Trianon, formerly known as WdweMU d'Ete, a at / 242 FIFTH AR HON DISSE.MEN T . garden of public amusement ; opposite to which are the large rooms and interesting exhibition of the well-known Diorama. (See Theatres, etc.) On coming onto the Boulevard St. Martin, the visitor will perceive the Chateau d'Eau. — This magnificent fountain, executed in 1811 from the designs of Girard, and supplied with water by the Canal de 1'Ourcq, consisls of five concentric basins placed one above another, the largest of which is 90 feet in diameter. From the centre of the uppermost rises a shaft, ornamented with leaves, supporting two paterae of different dimensions, from whence the water fails in a fine cascade from basin to basin . Four pedestals support each two antique lions, which spout forth water into one of the basins. The lions, shaft, and paterae, are of cast-iron, and the basins are of Chateau- Landon stone, highly polished. In the wall towards the rue de Bondy are two niches that supply water to the neighbour- hood. This fountain cost 180,000fr. A flower-market is held round this fountain every week. A short distance to the west stands the elegant building of the Theatre de V Ambigu- Comique, and still farther on, in the same direction, the in- elegant Theatre de la Porte St. Martin. (See Theatres.) At the western end of this boulevard is the Porte St. Martin. — This triumphal arch was built in 1074, after the designs of Bullet, a pupil of Blondel, architect of the Porte St. Denis. It is 54 feet wide, by an elevation of 54 feet, including the attic, the height of w hich is 11 feet. It is pierced by three arches; that in the centre is 15 feet wide by 30 in elevation ; the lateral arches are eight in width by 16 in height. In the spaces between the imposts and the entablature are bas-reliefs. Those towards the city represent the taking of Besancon and the triple alliance ; those towards the faubourg the taking of Limbourg, and the defeat of the Germans, by Louis XIV. This prince is represented under the figure of Hercules, with a large wig, and a club with which he drives back an eagle. Between the consoles of the entablature are various attributes of the military art; and in the centre is the sun, which Louis XIV. took for his emblem. On the attic is the following inscription: Ludovico Magna Vesuntione Sequanisque bis captis, et fractis Germanorum, Hispanorum, Batavorumque exercitibas, Prcef. et Mdiles P. CX. Anno D. 1674, This arch, which was completely MANUFACTURE ROYALE DES GLACES. 243 repaired in 1819 and 1820, is more correctly classic in its proportion than the Porte St. Denis, but from its small size and the lowness of its situation produces hardly any effect. On passing again by the Porte St. Denis, and entering the rue de la Lune, the stranger will find Notre Dame de Bonne Nouvelle, second district church of the third arrondissement. — The first church that stood on this spot, erected in 1551 , was destroyed during the siege of Paris in the wars of the League, in 1593; but was rebuilt in 1624. The tower of this second church is still standing, and is rather a picturesque object. The main body of the church, rebuilt in 1825, is a plain but spacious edifice of the Doric order, with a small portico on the northern front. It contains several pictures of no great merit, and is not remarkable for any peculiar excellence of architecture or of decoration. On leaving this church the visitor will proceed by the rues Poissonniere and Bourbon Villeneuve to the Place and Passage du Caire, and thence to The Manufacture Royal des Glaces, 313, rue St. Denis. The art of manufacturing mirrors was introduced into France by Eustache Grandmont and Jean Antoine d'Anthonneuil, to whom a patent was granted, dated August 1, 1634. In March, 1640, the patent was ceded to Raphael de la Planche, trea- surer-general of the royal edifices. The undertaking being merely a speculation, continued in a languishing state till 1666, when Colbert created it a royal manufactory, and erected the spacious premises which it used to occupy at 24, rue de Reuilly. Previous to the formation of this establishment, the finest mirrors possessed by France were brought from Venice ; but in a short time the glasses of Paris greatly excelled those of Venetian manufacture in size and beauty. All the glass employed in the formation of mirrors was blown until 1559, when a Frenchman, named Thevart, discovered the art of casting it ; which process was carried to a high degree of per- fection in 1688, by M. Lucas de Nehon. The art of polishing the glass was invented by Riviere Dufresne, to whom, as a reward for his discovery, a patent was granted, which he afterwards sold to the manufactory. The glass is cast at Tourlaville, near Cherbourg, and at St. Gobin, an ancient chateau near La Fere, from whence it is sent to Chauny, to be polished by means of a steam-engine that replaces the labour of 7000 workmen. It is then brought to Paris to be 344 SIXTH ARIKWDISSEMEM. silvered and sold. Since the Revolution of 1830 the esta- blishment has ceased to be a royal one properly so called; it slill retains the title, however, and is fixed in large and hand- some premises belonging to a company. The quantity of mirrors accumulated in the rue de Reuilly during the Revo- lution of 1790 has been estimated at the value of 14 millions of francs. Glasses can no w be made of the dimensions of 152 inches by 102 inches; though in the time of Louis XIV. the largest was 48 inches square. The price of glasses varies according to their size, but increases in a more rapid propor- tion, on account of the great difficulty attending the casting as well as silvering the larger plates. Glasses may cost as much as 10,000 or 12,000 francs, but a glass 20 inches by 12 may be obtained for 5 francs. The establishment may be visited every day except Sundays and the great festivals : and the workmen are careful to show all the operations of sil- vering, etc. ; but it hardly possesses sufficient interest to re- ward the inspection of the general visitor. In the rue St. Denis, at the corner of the rue St. Sauveur, is the extensive establishment of the Bains St. Sauveur: and in a small street, leading out of the adjoining rue Thevenot, is the spot once known as the Cour des Miracles ; the descrip- tion of which will not be readily forgotten by the readers of Victor Hugo. It is now the clean and quiet court-yard of a commercial house, as well as an unfrequented thoroughfare. The curious visitor will remark the dark and dirty streets that occupy the lower part of this arrondissement. Their names will sometimes strike him as being singular, and he will generally find some story or tradition attached to them, and worthy of being read, recorded in the larger works on the antiquities of Paris.(l) SIXTH ARRONDISSEMENT, This is the most straggling and irregularly shaped of all the arrondissements. The visitor may follow the boulevards, and enter it by the Boulevard du Temple, where there are several of the minor theatres situated close to one another; they are the Cirque Olympique, the Theatre de la Gaite, the (i) Sec History of Paris, 3 vols. 8vo. Published by A. and W. Galignani and Go, MA51CHE DTJ VIEUX L1NGE. 2-15 Thkitre des Fcdies Dramatiques, the Theatre des Funambules, the Theatre de Madame Saqui, and the Theatre du Petit La- sari ; for the descriptions of all of which the reader is re- ferred to the chapter on Theatres, etc. Close to the latter is a mean house, No. 50, from the upper windows of which Fieschi discharged his Infernal Machine, on the 28th July, 1835. Immediately opposite is 'the Jar din Jure— (See Theatres, Gardens, etc.) North of this boulevard the remaining part of the arrondissement contains little worthy of notice. In the rue du Faubourg du Temple is a large barrack for infantry, and at the upper end of the same street a new market has been formed. Immediately to the south of the Boulevard du Temple, and in a line pare!! el to it, is the rue Vendome ; a street in which will he found some of the finest hotels of the capital. On descending the rue du Temple the visitor will find on his left hand the large establishment of the Bains Turcs, No. 94, and nearly opposite will see the small but elegant front of Ste. Elizabeth, 2nd district church of 6th arrondisse- ment. — This church was originally the chapel of a convent for nuns of the third order of St. Francis, called the Dames de Ste. Elisabeth, and was erected in 1028. It is dedicated to Ste. Elizabeth of Hungary. The portal is decorated with Ionic and Doric pilasters ; and the interior, which was rebuilt in 1829, is remarkable chiefly for the low arches that occur between the piers of the nave, and for the Doric frieze which is inconsistently placed above them, and is adorned with ec- clesiastical ornaments, the instruments of the passion, etc. very badly executed. During the Revolution this edifice served as a granary : the portal has been lately restored by the city of Paris. The hig h altar stands towards the west, and the Lady chapel behind it contains six windows of modern painted glass, executed by Mr. White, an Englishman. The chapel of Ste. Elizabeth, which stands in the south aisle, has a fine picture by Blondel, representing the saint placing her coronet at the foot of the^Saviour's image. Lower down in the same street is the Marche du Vieux Liinge.— This spacious market was erected in 1809, upon part of the site of the ancient Temple. It consists of four galleries, containing 1888 shops or stalls. Here are offered for sale old clothes, linen, mattresses, shoes, 21. 246 SIXTH ARROND1SSEMF.NT. iron, tools, etc., at low prices. Behind this market is a build- ing with circular ends containing shops, which was erected in 1788 on speculation, when Ihe Temple was a sanctuary or asylum for debtors. The Temple formerly contained a large square tower flanked with four turrets, which was built in 1222. Here, for a long pe- riod, the kings of France kept their treasure, and it afterwards served for the deposit of the archives of the grand prior of Malta. It was in this tower that the unfortunate Louis XVI. and his family were imprisoned in 1792, and from hence he was led to the scaffold. It was subsequently transformed into a state prison, and Gen. Toussaint Louverture, Sir Sidney Smith, and Gen. Pichegru were long detained there. In 1805 the tower was demolished. Before the Revolution, the Temple con- sisted of two distinct parts, viz., the Temple properly called, and the palace of the grand prior. The former was private property, and consisted of several hotels and gardens, and many inferior dwellings for tradesmen, artists, and also for insolvent debtors, who took refuge at the Tempie to avoid arrest. The palace of the grand prior is all that now remains of the ancient Temple. It was built about the year 1566, by Jacques de Souvre, grand prior, after the designs of Delisle. The Chevalier d' Orleans, who was afterwards invested with that dignity, caused considerable repairs to be made to his pa- lace in 1721. The Duke of Angouleme was the last grand prior of the Temple. In 1812, this building was repaired and embellished, with the design of becoming a residence for the Ministre des Cultes; and in 1814 it was converted into a convent. The front is decorated with a portico formed of Ionic columns. On each side is a fountain in the form of a pedestal, surmounted by a colossal statue by Pujol. The statue on the right represents theMarne, and that on the left the Seine. The front towards the court is decorated with eight coupled Ionic columns, above which are stone figures of Justice, by Dumont ; Hope, by Lesueur; Abundance, by Foucou ; and Prudence, by Boichot. A new chapel was erected in 1823, between the palace and the Marche du Temple. The front is ornamented with a portico formed of two Ionic coftimns, sur- mounted by a triangular pediment, in the tympanum of which are sacred and royal emblems. The interior is decorated with columns of the Ionic order. The high altar is remarkably splendid, and is ornamented with two pictures by Lafond, one FONTAINE ST. MARTIN. 217 representing St. Louis, and the other St. Clotilda, and a copy of the Holy Family. The convent belongs to the Dames Be- nedictines de V Adoration Perpctuelle du St. Sacrement, and strangers are strictly excluded. They may, however, obtain admission to the interior of the chapel by applying at the por- ter's lodge. The Fontaine de Venbome was attached to the ancient, wall of the Temple, and is named after the Chevalier de Yen- dome, grand prior of France. It is surmounted by a cupola, and is adorned w ith a military trophy. In the rue des Fontaines, opposite the Temple, is a large building, formerly belonging to a Society of Nuns called the Filles de la Madeleine, who devoted themselves to the reclaim- ing of abandoned women. Since the Revolution it has been used, first as a prison for females, and then, on the removal of that class of offenders to St. Lazare, as a prison for boys. These have been transferred to the prison in the rue de la Ro- quette. (See Prisons, etc.) This building is of no interest in an architectural point of view. The visitor will find him- self, on leaving this street, near The Marche St. Martin ; which is a parallelogram of 300 feet by 180, erected in 1807 in the enclosure of the abbey of St. Martin des Champs. The stalls, in number nearly 400, are arranged in two large buildings. In the middle of the market stands a fountain, consisting of a shell, from which the water fails in a sheet into a basin. The shell is supported by three allegorical figures in bronze, representing the Genii of hunting, fishing, and agriculture, the produce of which supplies the market ; they are grouped round rushes and other marshy plants. Two smaller fountains have been constructed near the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. Near the Marche St. Martin is a public promenade planted with trees. From hence the rues de la Croix and du Vert Bois lead into the rue St. Martin; on the eastern side of which is the Fontaine St. Martin. — This fountain, built against a tower that formed a part of the wall of the ancient abbey of St. Martin des Champs, consists of a. basement and two pilasters, sur- mounted by a pedestal, ornamented with an escutcheon, and crowned by a shell. The tower is remarkable, as being the only one remaining of all that were placed at regular inter- vals round the outer wall of the celebrated monastery that stood where we now find the 248 SIXTH ARRONDISSEMENT. Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers. — M. Gregoire, bishop of Blois, was the first who suggested the idea of form- ing a national repository of machines, models, drawings, etc., for the improvement of machinery, and implements connected with manufactures, agriculture, and other branches of indus- try. The formation of this establishment was ordained by a Conventional decree in 1794, but it assumed little importance till 1798. There previously existed in Paris three repositories of machines. At the Louvre were those which M. Pajot d'Ozembray presented to the Academy of Sciences, and which had been considerably augmented by that learned body. At the Hotel de Mortagne, rue de Charonne, were 500 machines, bequeathed to the government in 1782, by the celebrated Vau- canson. Another repository was in the rue de l'Universite, and contained a numerous collection of agricultural imple- ments of all countries. These three repositories were formed into one by a decree of the Council of Five Hundred, dated 1798, and established in the buildings of the ancient abbey of St. Martin des Champs. Various changes were afterwards effected in this establishment. In 1810, a gratuitous school was formed to afford instruction in drawing the figure, orna- ment, and structure of machines — in arithmetic, algebra, geo- metry, descriptive geography, the application of these va- rious branches of the mathematics to timber, and stone-cutting, and the calculation of machines. By a law of 1798, all per- sons to whom patents were granted were bound to deposit at the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers their original patents, to- gether with the description, plans, designs, and models re- lating thereto; and the Conservatoire was authorised to have them printed, engraved, and published. In 1817, the reposi- tory was completely reorganized ; in 1819, three courses of public and gratuitous lectures were founded, on mechanics and chemistry applied to the arts, and on manufacturing pro- cesses, and in 1836 three other lectures were also founded on agriculture, agricultural machines, and agricultural chemistry. Pupils are admitted to the school by the authority of the Minister of the interior, at the request of the prefects of the departments or the mayors of Paris. Connected with this establishment are likewise two royal schools of arts and trades at Chalons and Angers for the education of youth, who wish to join a practical knowledge of the mechanical arts with theoretical instruction. The pupils, in number four hun- CONSERVATOIRE DES ARTS ET METIERS. 240 dred and fifty, are nominated by the King, and supported wholly or in part by the slate. Boarders are admitted. The buildings in which this establishment is placed are very re- markable : they consist of the^vast corps de logis of the Abbey of St. Martin des Champs, and of the chapel and other public apartments of that religious house. This chapel was built in the former part of the 13th century by Pierre de Montereau, the architect of the Sainte Chapelle ; at its eastern end are found remains of an earlier building of the Romanesque style : it is plain, and preserves but few traces of its ancient state. Part of the buildings of the abbey are used as the mairie of the 6th arrondissement, and as lecture-rooms for the professors of the school. The refectory, which is one of the most curious pieces of architecture in Paris, while, at the same time, it is one of the most perfectly preserved, is being thoroughly restored, previous to its being devoted to some public purpose. This also was built by Pierre de Montereau, and was finished in all its parts with the most exquisite deli- cacy. A line of slender columns along the middle of the room supports the central vaulting ribs of the roof, which, by a clever statical contrivance, that could with dificulty be imi- tated in the present day, are made to throw the principal part of the weight on the outer walls. This beautiful apartment contains a curious pulpit, with an open-worked balustrade to its staircase: and is well worthy of a careful inspection from all lovers of the architecture of the middle ages. The whole of the buildings have for some time past been undergoing complete repair, and the more valuable parts a thorough re- storation : the works are not yet terminated. The collections of models and machines preserved here is very extensive and various, consisting of nearly all that are used in France in every branch of industry. Only a small part of the collection is at present exhibited, the whole having been entirely re- arranged; and in consequence of the alterations going on in the buildings it is expected that some considerable time may yet elapse before the remainder can be cleared and shown to the public. The catalogue even of w hat is at present exhi- bited is not yet finished, but it is to be hoped that its publica- tion will not be long delayed. The reader will find, on mounting the grand staircase that leads to the long gallery, a series of three rooms ; in the first are a fine collection of ex- quisitely-finished models of steam-engines, both stationary -50 SIXTH ARRON0ISSKMENT. and locomotive, as well as a long series of models of various mills, workshops of numerous trades, machines used in build- ing and engineering operations, etc. In a small room parallel to this, is a complete model of a rail-road, with a train of locomo- tive steam-engines and waggons attached to it. In the 3d room, besides models of potteries, brewhouses, smelting-houses, etc. are some very valuable engineering and surveying instru- ments of various kinds constructed by celebrated makers. The whole collection, when completed, will be peculiarly in- teresting and instructive ; and no doubt will be one of the most valuable in Europe. The library consists principally of works relating to the arts and sciences. Tn it are kept the models and drawings of unexpired patents, which are not shown to the public. This establishment is open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays from 10 to 4; and to foreigners with passports, as well as to certain other privileged persons, on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, from 11 to 3. Almost immediately to the south of the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers will be perceived St. Nicolas des Champs, parish church of the 6th Ar rondissement, which existed upon this spot as early as 1119, and became parochial in 1184. It was enlarged in 1420, and in 1576 the choir and the chapels behind it were con- structed. This church consists of a nave, and choir, with double aisles, and their accompanying chapels, a Lady chapel, and a projecting porch on the south side that gives the appear- ance of a demi-transept. The western front is of the period 1420, and displays some canopies and mouldings, with good sculpture of that date. The tower is plain, and appears to be of a later epoch. In the nave and its aisles the capitals of the shafts are good, and the mouldings, which are rather open for the period at which it was built (1420), evince the deteriora- tion of the style. The piers of the choir and the whole of the church eastward of the southern door are of the date of the last repairs above mentioned. The columns are elliptical, and of the Doric order ; they support bold vaulting ribs, and their elongated forms show that the genius of the pointed style was not quite extinct at the time of their erection. Both nave and choir have large clerestory windows with simple tracery, but no triforium gallery. The high altar is handsome, formed of Corinthian columns of black marble, surmounted by a pedi- ment. The picture contained between the columns is by TOWER OF ST. JACQUES DE LA BOUCHKRli;. 251 Vouet, representing the Assumption. This church may be said to be remarkable principally for the good pictures it con- tains. In the baptismal chapel on the south of the western door is a curious Baptism of Christ, of the early Kalian school. In the southern aisle, in the Ghapeile des Trepasses, is a well- executed Deliverance of Souls from Purgatory. The adjoin- ing one contains an excellent picture of Christ bearing his Cross, by Coutant, and in that next to it is a very pleasing Sle. Genevieve, with a good Crucifixion. The Raising of Lazarus, and a large and very curious picture of Louis XIIL making his vow to the Virgin, are well worthy of inspection. In the last chapel but one in the sourthcrn aisle of the choir dedicated to St. Bruno, is the Apotheosis of that saint, by Lesueur. In the Lady chapel are two large paintings by Cami- nade ; and behind the high altar of the choir is a curious example of a Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, formed by the altar and the apsis of the church. The chapels in the northern aisles of the choir and nave also possess some good paintings. In that of St. Cecilia is the Crowning with Thorns; and in that of St. Charles Borromeo, a very beautiful small painting of the sainted cardinal relieving the sick of the plague. In the Chapel of St. Stephen, opposite the south door of the church, is a large and well-painted picture of the saint by the bedside of a poor man. It is very rare to find so many paintings of merit in the same church. Many distinguished persons were buried here ; among them Budoeus, the restorer of Greek literature in France; the philosopher Gassendi ; Henry and Adrian de Valois, historians; and Madlle. Scuderi . Near this church, 151, rue St. Martin, is a fine old hotel, of the days of Louis XIV., with a handsome entrance, and a front decorated with Ionic pilasters. This arrondissement, the east- ern limit of which is here determined by the western side of the rue St. Martin, reaches as far as the river. The principal monument of interest which it possesses is the Tower of St. Jacques de la Bouciierie, erected in the years 1508-22. — This is the only part remaining of the church of that name, which was demolished during the Revo- lution, and which occupied the area of the present market. This magnificent tower, which is 150 feet in height, was for- merly surmounted by a spire 30 feet high. It is a good speci- men of the declining style of the pointed architecture of France. The turret at the north-western angle, and the battlement 252 SIXTH ARRONDISSEMENT. at the summit, with the gargouilles of immense size projecting from it, are its principal features. It has been lately pur- chased by the municipality of Paris, and may be expected to be completely restored. The market established at its foot is for the sale of old clothes and linen. The houses and streets in its immediate neighbourhood are some of the oldest and most curious in the capital. From St. Jacques, the stranger will again find his way into the rue St. Denis, and, crossing the end of the Marche des In- nocents, will come to the Cour Batave, 124, rue St. Denis, which was so called, because it was erected by a company of Dutch merchants in 1791. The principal court was formerly surrounded with porticos and a covered gallery; but its effect is much dimi- nished in consequence of the porticos haying been filled up with shops. This structure cost more than 1,800,000 fr. ; and, if the Revolution had not prevented the complete exe- cution of the plan, it would have formed a magnificent monu* ment. Northward of this, and in the same street, is St. Leu et St. Gilles, 1st district church of 6lh arron- dissement. — On the spot where this small church now stands, a chapel was erected in 1236, which, in 1617, became paro- chial. The building was repaired in 1320, and, in 1611, the choir, with its aisles and chapels, was rebuilt. It consists of a nave and choir with side aisles : in those of the nave, one or two chapels are built, while, in those of the choir, they occur regularly in each compartment. There is a small tower at the west end, with a short spire : the front is of the dato 1236. By its mouldings, the nave is apparently of the 13lh century, and, probably, of the date of the foundation; but the lateral arches and walls appear to have been inserted at a later period. The clerestory windows occupy the whole of the intervals over the arches, but are devoid of mullions or tracery: there is no triforium, and the arch, with the window above, is set in a recess retiring at right angles from the pier. The side aisles have been awkwardly joined on to the rest of the building, and are of the date 1320, if not later. The choir has its roof higher than that of the nave, and is not a bad specimen of the style of the Renaissance. Some canopies and brackets for figures on the piers of this part of the church are curious. The high altar was raised in 1780, and a chapel HOTEL DE ST. AIGNAN. 253 of the Sepulchre constructed underneath. The pictures wor- thy of notice in this church are two in the nave : St. Margaret, Queen of Scotland, washing the feet of the Poor, by Gassiez, and St. Leu, delivering Prisoners from confinement. In the Chapelle des Fonts, is a good picture of St. John the Baptist: in that of St. Louis, in the southern aisle of the choir, is a portrait of St. Francois de Sales, taken after death by Philippe de Cham- pagne; and, in that of St. James, the front of the altar has a curious piece of carved work, representing the creation. In the north aisle of the choir, a picture of Ste. Genevieve may be remarked, as well as a large one by Colson, near the door of the sacristy, of Christ restoring sight to the Blind, together with an old and good picture of a saint at Prayer, probably by Va- lentin. St. Leu being considered a healer of the sick, th& kings of France, upon their accession to the throne, formerly visited this church nine days in succession, to implore health of the patron saint SEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. (1) On entering this arrondissement, at its north-west corner, the visitor will pass near the rue Transnonain, a small and wretched street, but one which has acquired a melancholy celebrity by the conflict between the people and the troops in April, 1834. Throughout the whole of the arrondissement are to be found some of the most magnificent hotels in Paris, and the visitor will do well to pass among the small and dirty streets, of which this quarter of the town is now almost entirely made up, if he wishes to have an idea of what Paris was one or two centuries ago. In the rue St. Avoye, which is a continuation of the Vieille Rue du Temple, Nos. 42 and 63, especially the latter, are well worthy of attention. The Hotel de St. Aignan, 57, rue St. Avoye, is a magni- ficent edifice built by Le Muet. The court is of very large dimensions, and is surrounded by Corinthian pilasters. All the windows are adorned with pediments, and the architec- ture is pure and of fine proportions, though the effect of the (i) In describing this arrondissement, it has been found desirable to include within it all that portion of the 9th which lies on the north bank of the river, westward of the rue St Paul. 254- 6EVKNTH AlUtONDlSSfiMElHX. whole is now spoiled by two storeys having- been added to the original height of tlje building. On the site of this hotel stood the house where the Connetable Anne de Montmorency died of his wounds after the battle of St. Denis, Noy. 12, 1567. Henry If. often resided here ; it was then called the Hotel -de Montmorency. Be Mesmes, President of the Parlia- ment, afterwards came into possession of it, and gave it his name, which it changed for its present one in passing to a iliffcren t proprietor. Nearly opposite to it is a small fountain, built in 1687. On passing eastward from this street by the rue des Vicilles Audriettes, the visitor will find, at the corner of the rue du Chaumc, The Fomtaine de la Naiade, erected originally in 1635, rebuilt in 1775, and lately restored. It is plain but elegant, and, on its front, is a well-executed bas-relief of a naiad lying among rushes, by MignoT. The Archives du Royaxjme will be perceived at the oppo- site corner. The building in which this great national col- lection is contained was formerly the hotel, or rather the pa- lace, of the Prince de Soufcise, and the family of the Rohans. It was built upon the site of a mansion belonging to the Gon- netable de Clisson; and, after passing through the family of the Guises, became the property of the Rohans in 1697. The present hotel appears to have been erected after that period; though at the western end are some remains of what was pro- bably the gatehouse with a turret of the 15lh century. A pe- tlimenled front of two storeys, adorned with coupled columns and statues, forms the northern side of a large court-yard 186 feet by 120, surrounded by a colonnade of coupled com- posite columns. The building extends to a great depth behind, and wilh its grands et petils appartemenls, as well as the gar- dens, constituted a residence of a family that disdained to be princes, and were only not kings. (1) The decorations of most of the apartments remain ; the gilded ornaments are very abundant and exceedingly beautiful; and the paintings of part of the ceilings and panels are of first rale-merit. The prin- cipal saloon of the grands appartemenls is ft model of all that was elegant in the year 1730 ; it now forms the library of the archives, and contains a valuable bronze clock, with fine co- (i) The well-known motto of the Rohans is—" Fioi. je ne suis Prince ne dai^ne } Rohan je suis." ARCHIVES DtT ftOVAtiMfe. 255 Jjios of the Day and Night of Michael Angolo, as well as a large table of the same date. In the pelits appartements there is nothing so remarkable as a window looking into the rue du Chaume, belonging to the boudoir of a Duchess do Guise, once the owner of the palace, from whence it is said her lover precipitated himself into the street on the approach of the duke. After the Revolution, some families of noble birth, who had suffered by the calamities of the times, were lodged here by order of Napoleon ; and In 1809 the whole edifice was con- secrated to the preservation of the archives cf the nation. This precious collection originated with the National Assem- bly in 1789, and to it were afterwards joined, besides all the acts and proces-verbaux. of the legislature, the domanial and administrative archives, the charters and other documents of the monastic bodies, public papers relating to the topography and statistics of the country, as well as several other objects of value and rarity. In 1810, 11, 12, all the riches of the archives of the countries conquered by Napoleon were deposited here } but these were taken away by the allied troops after the fall of the Emperor. The ancient nobility, also, on their return from emigration, demanded and obtained their title-deeds, which had been sequestrated during the Revolution. (1) The collection at present is formed into six sections. The legislative section con- tains ail the acts of the legislature, etc. forming a collection of 7,000 cartons. The administrative section comprises all the papers emanating from the public authorities; among which are the arrets du conseil from 1593 to 1791 ; the whole in 40,000 cartons. The historical section is formed of the tresor des ckartes from the 12th century to Charles IX. ; the historical monuments and the titles and charters of the mo- nastic bodies, including a document said to be the original diploma of foundation granted by Ghildebcrt to the Abbey of St. Germain des Pros, and similar documents granted to the Abbey of St. Denis by Dagobert, Glotaire, and Glovis II. Besides these it contains the archives of the military and rcli- 0) An erroneous notion lias prevailed, that the most pen: ions and oldest archives of France arc contained in the Tower of Lon- don, whither they were carried by the British invaders of Fiance in the middle ages. The most valuable documents, however, were, all preserved in the monasteries up to the lime of the Revolution, and on a most careful search having been made in the Tower, none of any importance have been discovered. 66 SEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. gious orders; those relating to public instruction ; to genea- logy, etc. The total number of cartons is 5436. The topo- graphical section consists of all the maps and surveys autho- rized by the state, to the number of 4616. The domanial sec- tion has the title-deeds of princes, nobles, and public bodies, with the deeds of sequestration, etc. in 26,000 cartons. The judicial section, which is kept at the Palais de Justice, con- tains all the acts, decrees, and records of the parliaments and other courts of the kingdom, in 63,000 cartons. Besides these sections a library of 14,000 volumes is attached to the collec- tion, in which will be found all the volumes of the Records Commission of England, lately presented by the British Go- vernment. One of the most interesting things contained in this hotel is the famous iron chest, made by order of the Na- tional Assembly in 1790, in which are deposited the seals and golden bulls of the papal decrees ; a great portion of the keys of the Bastille; the silver keys of Namur, presented to Louis XIV., the famous Limes Rouges found at Versailles, the tes- taments of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, the journal of Louis XVI., the minute of the Droits de Y Homme, the plate of the assignats, medals of the empire, the standards of the metre, gramme, and decagramme, in platina, autograph letters of Napoleon, and among them the one written by him to Louis XVIII., together with a crowd of other precious objects. The archives were first entrusted to the care and direction of Camus, and on his death to the present Garde-General, M. Daunou, whose name alone sums up all the events of the history of France during the last 50 years. M. Michelet, the Historian, is at the head of his own section. This interesting establishment is well worthy of a lengthened visit from the intelligent traveller. Application for permission must be made at the bureaux, where it is readily granted. Behind the Hotel de Soubise, in the rue d' Orleans, leading from the rue des Quatre Fils, is the small church of St. Francois d' Assise, second district church of the seventh arrondissement. — The exterior is perfectly plain and unin- teresting, and the interior can lay claim to no architectural beauty. It was the chapel of a convent of Capucins, erected and founded in 1623. It consists of a nave, choir, and one side aisle ; the galleries opening into the church and aisle, from whence the brethren heard service still remain. It is only remarkable for some good paintings which it contains : in the 1MPRIB1EPJE ROYALE. 257 nave, St. Charles Borromeo at Milan, St. John writing the Apocalypse, and St. Louis visiting his soldiers sick of the plague, by Scheiffer, all on the western wall, arc good paint- ings. On the eastern are St. Francois d'Assise before Pope Innocent IIL, by Caillot, and the same saint before a sultan of Egypt,, by Lordon, both of them good. A small Crucifixion is also worthy of notice. At the entrance of the chcir is, on the left hand, a very remarkable kneeling figure of the saint of the church, in his monastic dress, of grey marble, said to be Egyptian; the hands and head are of white marble. Opposite to it is one of St. Denis. Behind the altar in the choir are several large paintings: the best of which arc a De- scent from the cross, and the Communion of St. Theresa. In the aisle on the east of the nave there are two beautiful little pictures by the side of the altar of the Virgin, representing the Flight into Egypt, and the Presentation in the Temple. The chapel of St. Francis also possesses an excellent picture of the saint. By the side of the church is a new and elegant house lately erected for the curate and his vicars. The stranger will turn from the rue des Quatre Fils into the Vieille Rue du Temple, and at the corner will find The Palais Cardinal, now the Imprimerie Royale. This hotel was erected in 1712, and derives its name from its possessor, the Cardinal de Rohan, so famous in the time of Louis XVI., and whose intriguing spirit brought so much un- merited odium on the unfortunate Queen Marie Antoinette.. In this hotel took place the scenes described in the Memoirs of Mad. Campan. The front towards the court is plain ; that towards the garden is decorated with columns ; and the man- sion altogether was one of the largest in the capital. It is now used as the Royal Printing Establishment, which is one of the most extensive and best regulated in Europe. The Im- primerie Royale was first established by Francis L in the Louvre, in the entresol of the long gallery ; it was afterwards trans- ferred to the Hotel de Toulouse, now the Ranque de France, and finally, in 1809, to the Palais Cardinal. The visitor is conducted through all the different branches of the type-foun- dry, the compositors' rooms, the hand-press room, the steam- pressroom, and the mechanical press rooms ; the form-room, the paper-warehouse, and the book-binding department. Throughout the whole the utmost order, regularity and cleanli- ness are preserved, and the greatest attention is paid toallstran- 22, 258 SEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. gers by one of the superinlendants of the establishment, those gentlemen taking a pleasure in explaining all the minutiae of the various processes in person. The total number of persons constantly employed here is 600, of whom 70 are compositors. The book-binding part occupies, out of the above number, 20 men and 70 women. There are in the hand-press room 100 presses constantly working, each occupying two men ; here all the ordinary work of the office is performed ; the Govern- ment papers of all kinds, and for all offices throughout the French dominions, besides any other common printing per- formed here by order of the Government, are struck off in this room. The steam-press room, in which a fine engine works two beautifully constructed machines, equivalent in duty to 25 hand-presses, is devoted to similar purposes. In this room there is also a drying-machine, worked by steam, and an ingenious apparatus for cutting the edges of certain government papers, custom-house tables, etc., where almost mathematical accuracy is required. The mechanical press room is filled with some very beautiful hand-presses, worked by improved mechanical processes, and by which the rare and magnificent works published at the expense of government are printed. The oriental books, with coloured margins, and other splendid specimens of typography, unique in their kind, and which cannot be executed elsewhere, will afford a high treat to the intelligent visitor. During the time of Napoleon, when government papers were printed here for half Europe, there were 300 hand-presses constantly employed ; these of course were diminished at the Restoration. At the lime of the Revolution of July, 1830, the mob broke into this office, and among them some printers from other establishments, who destroyed every one of the steam and mechanical presses, thinking, thereby, to break up the establishment. The admi- nistration at that time came to an understanding with the trade, that not more than two steam-presses should be used in future ; and this has been since adhered to. This establishment is the richest of all the world in its founts of type, having complete ones in every written language. At the time of Pope Pius VII. visiting the Royal Printing-office, the Lords' Prayer was printed and presented to him in 150 languages at once. The forms of government papers are kept here for a long time after they are used, and 4,000 are thus preserved in a long room set apart for this purpose. The hours for working in this es* NOTRE DAME DES BtANCS MAftTEAUX* 259 tablishment are 10 every day ; compositors gain from 5fr. to 6fr. per diem ; and the best printers 4fr. 50c. After 30 years' service they are entitled to a pension of 400fr., and a certain small portion of their wages is deducted for a sick-fund. The book-binders earn about 3fr. 50c, and the women 2fr. per diem. A library, containing specimens of typography ex- ecuted here, is attached to this establishment, which, even to an indifferent observer, cannot fail of being one of the most gratifying sights in Paris. For permission to see this es- tablishment, written application must be made, a day or two before band, to M. Le Direcleur de V Imprimerie Roy ale, who appoints a fixed hour for the visitor, which must be punc- tually kept, in order that the superintendent may conduct all Visitors at the same time, and thus be saved any unnecessary loss of time and trouble. (1) At the corner of the rue des Francs Bourgeois, so called from certain free tenements held in it in former days by poor people, will be seen one of those elegant turrets that still are to be found in some of the most ancient parts of Paris. The bold mouldings at the lower part and the tracery of the upper are remarkable. This turret probably witnessed the murder of the Duke of Orleans, only brother of Charles VJ., on Nov. 23, 1407, who was assassinated in this street, between this corner and that of the rue Barbette, by order of the Duke of Burgundy ; an event that gave rise to the bloody feud which produced such calamity to France, and ended in the occupa- tion of it by the English. The stranger will do well to turn into the rue de Paradis, where he will find a large edifice, the central establishment of the Mont de Piete, (see Institutions ,) and by its side the church of Notre Dame desBlancsManteaiix, first district church of 7th arrondissement, formerly the chapel of a religious house, where one of the mendicant orders called the Blancs Manteaux, from their dress, or the Serviteurs de la Vierge Marie, esta- blished themselves in 1258. In 1297 another mendicant order, the Guillemites, replaced them by order of the Pope ; and, in 1618, these were united to a Benedictine order, and the monastery and chapel were rebuilt. A street now tra- (i) The visitors may, if they please, give a trifling gratuity to the workmen who perforin any thing for them ; otherwise it will be perceived that no fee can be offered in this establishment. 200 SEVENTH AltRONBISSEitfENT. verses the court of the monastery, some of the buildings of which may still be observed to the east; and the chapel re- mains a plain building externally, but of an elegant style of Corinthian architecture within. It consists of a nave with narrow side aisles, and a circular end ; it has an arched roof, with lateral windows, above the cornice of the Corinthian pi- lasters that adorn the front of the piers ; and is lofty and well lighted. The organ is placed in a remarkable position behind the high altar. In the eastern aisle is a small and agreeable picture of a female saint, and over the entrance is a large and very splendid picture of the Burial of St. Pelronilla ; its dimen- sions are about IS feet by 8, and it appears to be a Guercino. Nothing is known concerning this painting, perhaps the finest in any of the Parisian churches, farther than it was given to the church soon after the restoration of the edifice to Catholic worship, and that it came from Versailles. It is, unfortu- nately, in very bad condition. The church should be visited for the sake of this picture alone. To the east of this church, and opposite to the rue des Blanc s Manteaux, is the Marche des Blancs Manteaux.— -This small market, si- tuated upon the site of the convent des Filles Hospitalieres de £t. Gervais, was begun in 1811, and opened in 1819. It oc- cupies a space of about eighty square feet, and consists of a structure which, presents six arcades in front. On each side of the entrance is the head of an ox, in bronze, from which water flows into a basin. A little lower down in this street, at No. 51, is The Hotel de Hollands, built by Cottard, a fine hotel, richly ornamented in the style of Louis XIV. The figures that support the pediment of the front arc tasteful, and on the compartments of the walls surrounding the first court, may slill be seen a dial and other astronomical diagrams faintly traced. In two very small and obscure streets behind this hotel, at No. 1, in the rues du Puits and du Singe, may be seen the re- mains of two ancient mansions, preserving traces of pointed architecture. At the northern end of this street is the Fontaine de VEchaude, a monument of no elegance or importance. The stranger will not regret following the rue des Francs Bourgeois, on quitting the Vieille Hue du Temple; he will HOTEL DE CARNAVALET. 261 find it containing some magnificent mansions of sufficient in- terest to repay his excursion. No. 25, is an hotel of the time of Henry IV.; No. 7, of the days of Louis XV., is now the Mairie of the arrondissement ; and No. 12, although not in the same arrondissement, may also be noticed. At the corner of the rue Pavee stands The Hotel de Lamoignon, one of the most elegant of the residences of the old nobility. It is of the same dale appa- rently as the centre of the Tuileries ; its front is adorned with fine Corinthian pilasters; and in the circular-headed pedi- ments that appear over the side wings are shields with slags' heads, the horns of which are held by angels ; the heads of hounds, etc. A beautiful little balcony in the northern wing, and a curious turret at the corner of the street, should be re- marked. The whole has lately been restored. In the same street is the Hotel de la Houze, and there also stood the Hotels de Gaucher de Chdtillon, and d'Herbouville, or de Savoisi. The new building of La Force is perceived in it about mid-way. At the corner of the rue Culture Ste. Catherine, but in the 8th arrondissement, is the Hotel de Carnavalet, the residence of Madame de Sevigne, and the Countess de Grignan, her daughter, and one of the most beautiful of the mansions of the 17th century. The sculpture with which it is adorned is of exquisite deli- cacy of execution, and was in part the work of Jean Goujon. The building itself seems to be posterior to the time of that celebrated artist. The front is decorated with coupled Ionic columns, and the gateway has some excellent sculpture with which it is crowned : the figure of Minerva over the attic of the front is very remarkable. In the court-yard the capitals of the pilasters of the lower storey are very elegant, and three sets of four allegorical figures, those in the centre by Goujon, will attract the visitor's attention. One of the spacious apart- ments still remains. Strangers are admitted on applying to the porter. At the corner of this street the Conn&table de Clisson was waylaid and nearly murdered, in 1390. On descending the rue Culture Ste. Catherine, the visitor will pass the large establishment of the Bains Ste. Catherine, &nd will soon be struck with the magnificent view of St. Paul 262 SEVENTH ARROXDISSEMENT. and St. Louis, in the rue St. Antoine. In front of this splen- did church is the Fontaine de Birague, erected in 1579, by Cardinal Rene de Birague, chancellor of France, and rebuilt in 1807. It is a pentagonal tower, surmounted by a dome and lantern. The sides are similar ; consisting of a niche, between Doric pilas- ters supporting a pediment, above which rises an attic adorned with a naiad. On each side was formerly an inscription. The following is the only one that remains :— Frretor et iEdilcs Fontem hnnc posuerc, Beat! Sceptrum si Lodoix, dum iliiet unda, re^at. By its side is a guard-house. On turning to the right hand, and immediately entering the rue du Roi de Sicile, the stranger will Had the entrance of the prison called La Force, (see Prisons,) formerly the hotel of the Duke de La Force. The principal court still remains. On the opposite side of the rue St, Antoinc, is St. Paul et St. Louis, 3d district church of 7th arron- disseinent. — This church was begun in 1627, upon the site of a chapel belonging to the adjoining convent of the Jesuits, which was founded by the Cardinal de Bourbon in 1582. It was finished in 1641, and Cardinal Richelieu performed the first mass, in the presence of Louis XIII. and his court. The form of it is a Roman cross, surmounted by a dome. The magnificent front, elevated upon a flight of steps, is 144 feet in elevation, and 72 feet in breadth at the base. It is deco- rated w ith three ranges of columns, and has a very rich effect when viewed from the opposite street with the evening sun shining upon it. This gorgeous structure is to be noticed for the richness of ornament, lavished upon every part of its in- terior. It is cruciform, with chapels on each side of the nave, communicating the one with the other. Over the cross of the church rises a lofty dome, in the pendentives of which are sculptured figures of the four evangelists ; and, on the sides above, four figures in fresco of kings of France. A very rich cornice and gallery are over the Corinthian pilasters which stand in front of each pier, and the roofs of the chapels are remarkable for being covered with scroll work. This church was pillaged of all its riches at the Revolution ; but a profusion of marble is still to be seen on the high altar, and round se- veral door-ways; the rails, too, which separate the high altar hovel DE SENS* ■ 263 from the nave, are of marble. In the eastern transept, is an original but well-conceived picture of the Agony in the Garden, and, in a chapel on the western side, is a very fmc and valuable picture of St Paul, in the style of Moi'se Valen- tin. The architect of this magnificent church was Father Derranden, a Jesuit. By the side of St. Paul and St. Louis, is the entrance to the College Royal de Charlemagne, 120, rue St. Antoine, the buildings of which formed the college of Jesuits founded in 1582. They are remarkable only for their great size, and arc a prominent feature in the rue des Pretres St. Paul. The stranger should enter this street by the Passage Charlemagne, which will lead him through the court of the Hotel de Jassaud, or d' Agues scan, 22, rue des Pretres St. Paul, where the tradi- tion of the neighbourhood places the site of a palace of the Queen Blanche. A turret of the time of Francis I. is still to be seen in one corner of the court, and some figures with other ornaments remain to indicate its former state. From this street the visitor will go into the rue du Fi- guicr, at the corner of which is the Hotel de Sens, one of the most interesting remains of the middle ages extant in France. It was erected in the 15th century, and formed part of the Hotel St. Paul. The gateway, flanked by two overhanging turrets, has a finely- groined roof, and has a curious projection on the outside at the apex of the arch, destined to serve as a means of defence. The windows are very remarkable, and there is a singular turret in the south-western corner of the court with a machi- eolated projection. This hotel, which is a perfect model of a noble mansion of the epoch of its erection, is still in good preservation, although used as a waggon-office, and tenanted by poor families. It is greatly to be desired that the Govern- ment should be induced to purchase and to repair it, as one of the most precious of the national monuments. The rue de Jouy, which, at No. 9, possesses a specimen of the architectural genius of Mansard in the Hotel d'Aumont, w i i 1 lead the visitor back to the rue St. Antoine. In the street immediately opposite to it, at the corner of the roe du Roi de Sicile, is an hotel of the time of Louis XIII. , said to have been the residence of the Sicilian Ambassador. The rue St. Antoine leads into the smaller one de Monceau, at the corner of which stands 264 SEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. St. Gervais, 2d district church of 9th arrondissement. — A chapel is believed to have existed on this spot, from so remote a period as the 6th century. The structure that replaced it was enlarged or rebuilt in the year 1212, but no traces of any part of the work of these edifices is now remaining. There is much difficulty in ascertaining the date of the church as it actually exists ; the best authorities giving dates that are irreconcileable with facts, or else remaining silent on the sub- ject. An inscription, placed near the sacristy door, states that the church was dedicated in the year 1420 ; but this is utterly at variance with the style of any part of the existing edifice, all the details and the general analogies of which show it to be of the 16th century. On the other hand, the date 1581, assigned for some enlargements that took place in that century, seems almost too late. It is probable that the church was dedicated before the walls were raised, that the building was afterwards suspended, and that it was resumed in the 16th century, according to the style of that epoch. This will be rendered more probable by an inspection of the general arrangement of the edifice. It is a regular cruciform church, with single aisles entirely surrounding it; the tran- septs are not deep, and have galleries of a later date erected in them. There is no triforium gallery, and the clerestory windows, which are large, nearly touch the vertices of the pier arches. The mouldings are all open, and in many cases intersecting ; while the tracery of the windows is of late date, and of weak design. The imposts of the shafts and piers are in all cases discontinuous; the vaulting ribs are complicated, and the exterior flying buttresses are double, having the lower arch surmounted by a series of smaller ones. The chapels, that surround the nave and choir communicate with each other by archways, and thus give the effect of a double aisle. TheLady chapel behind the apse of the choir is the most beau- tiful in Paris; the vaulting ribs of its roof unite in the cen- tre, and descend into an elaborate open- worked crown, that is quite a chef-d'oeuvre both in design and workmanship. The windows of this chapel are filled with very fine painted glass by the celebrated Jean Cousin, and the northern windows of the choir and nave still preserve ample remains of the glass with which that sculptor and painter filled the whole church. Some of the chapels have also a few fragments. The western front of the church was begun in 1616, Louis XIII. laying the ST. GERVAIS. 265 first stone ; and, though good in its kind, cannot but be re- gretted as having replaced what, from the other details of this church, may be inferred to have been much better. The chapels of this magnificent building, as ils interior entitles it to be called, contain some very fine paintings. The first on the south side of the nave, which is the Chapelle des Agoni- sanls, has a fine Crucifixion, of one of the later Italian schools. The Chapelle des Trepasses contains a curious picture of the Deliverance of Souls from Purgatory at the intercession of the Virgin ; it is probably an Italian picture, and of the 17th cen- tury. The south transept forms the Chapel of the Holy Ghost; in it is a good altar-piece, of the Tongues of Fire, at the Feast of Pentecost; and also a circular segmental picture of the Father surrounded by Cherubim, painted by Perugino, in 1496. The first chapel of the south aisle of the choir is remarkable for a fine Decapitation of St. John the Baptist, apparently by Guercino. The next chapel, of St. Genevieve, has Jesus, with Martha and Mary, by Philippe de Champagne. This is an excellent picture. In a large and irregularly- shaped chapel, is the monument of Chancellor Letellier, a sarcophagus of black marble, supported by colossal heads in white marble. At the ends are beautiful full-sized figures of Religion and Fortitude ; on the sarcophagus the chancellor reclines, with a genius weeping at his feet. It dates nearly from his death, 1685. There is also a plaister Descent from the Cross, by Gois, in this chapel. In the Lady chapel there is a large and splendid picture of the Death of the Virgin. In one of the chapels north of the choir, is an excellent painting of the Good Samaritan, by Foustier. Near the sacristy door, in this aisle, is a picture by Albert Durer, of the nine suf- ferings of Christ, dated 1500. In the north transept is the Martyrdom of St. Jullitte, by Heim ; and in the next chapel of the nave, is Christ at the Ruler's House, a good picture of the French school. In the Chapelle des Fonts, is a well-exe- cuted model in wood of the western front of the church, serving as an altar-piece. There is a fine organ in this church, and the services are performed here with great so- lemnity. It is one of the most interesting churches of Paris : and Paul Scarron, husband of Mad. de Maintenon, Philippe C ha nip ague, with many other distinguished persons, were uried within its walls. A small street nearly opposite this church leads into the 33 266 SEVENTH ARKONDISSEMKNT. Marche St. Jean, a place no longer used as a market. An old fountain and a guard-house still exist upon it. In the rue des Bi lie ties, No. 16, leading from the rue de la Vcrrerie, which opens into this place, is The Lutheran Church (Eglise des Carmes). — This church, built in 1754, after the designs of Frere Claude, a Dominican, formerly belonged to a body of Carmelite friars. In 1790 the convent was suppressed, and in 1808 the church was bought by the city of Paris, and given, about four years after, to the Protestants of the Augsburg Confession. The building is lofiy, neat, and light. It is fitted up with pews in the English style, and possesses an organ. In the vestry are several good pictures, presented by the late Gen. Rapp, and other Protestants. Service is performed every Sunday, at 12 and 2, in French and German alternately. Returning by this street, and passing by the rue des Deux Porles, the visitor will come into the rue de la Tixeranderie, where, at the corner of the rue du Coq, is a house and turret of the 16th century. The visitor may now proceed to the Hotel de Ville, Place de Greve. — The place where the corps de ville or municipality of Paris assembled under the first and second races of kings is not known. In the earliest reigns of the third race, their meetings were held in a house called la Maison de la Marchandise, situated in the Valiee de la Misere. From thence they removed to the Parloir aux Bourgeois, near the Grand Chatelet, and afterwards to a kind of lower in the city wall, which, like the preceding, took the name of Parloir aux Bourgeois. In 1357, the municipality purchased, for 2,880 livres Parisis, the Maison de la Greve, or Maison aux Piliers, which had formerly belonged to Philip Augustus, and was frequently made a royal residence. Upon the site of this and some neighbouring houses the Hotel de Viile was erected. The first stone was laid July 15, 1533, by Pierre de Viole, prevot des marchands, but the works were af- terwards suspended, and it was not till 1549, when Dominic Boccadoro di Cortona, an Italian architect, presented a new plan to Henry IL, that the building was proceeded with. It was not, however, entirely finished until 1695, in the reign of lienry IV., under the provostship of Francois Miron. During the war of the Fronde, and still more during the Revolution, the edifice received much damage, particularly in the orna- mental parts ] it was, however, preserved from further degra- HOTEL BE VILLE. 2f>7 dation in 1801, by being converted into the seat of the pre- fecture, and was repaired by Molinos. Other buildings were added to it, and the hospital and church of St. Esprit, together with the church of St. Jean en Grevc, were pulled down or incorporated in it. Very extensive repairs have lately been made in its principal front ; and}; the city of Paris has decided on doubling the length of this front, as well as of increasing the whole of the edifice, so as to form an immense quadran- gle of the same style of architecture as the original, with four splendid facades, completely isolated, and at a distance from any surrounding houses. The expense of these additions and alterations is estimated at four millions of francs. The Hotel de Ville, as completed in 1605, consists of a large pile of build - ing towards the Place de Greve, with two pavilions higher than the rest of the edifice, built at the northern and southern extremities, and of buildings surrounding a small court in the centre. To these have been added other erections at different periods, the whole of which will be so arranged as to consti- tute 3 courts, forming altogether one series of buildings. The style of architecture displayed in this remarkable edifice is that prevalent in Italy during the 16th century, and which is known in France as that of La Renaissance des Arts. The component members of the decorative parts of the building are all Roman, arranged in the manner of the middle ag'es. Each pavilion is erected over a wide archway, one of which still serves as a street; a range of windows with pediments, between small Corinthian columns, is on the ground floor; and above is a long range of 'plainer windows and canopied niches, while a rich balustrade edges the lofty roof pierced with dormer windows, or lucarnes. In the centre of the roof rises a grotesque turret, and high chimneys, richly ornamented, flank the roofs of the main body and of the pavilions. The ornaments of this front are exquisitely sculptured, and its effect as a monu- ment of the epoch is very grand. Over the door-way in the centre is a bronze equestrian bas-relief of Henry IV., which replaces one destroyed during the Revolution ; and in the centre of the roof is a valuable clock, by Lepaute. The quadrangle, which is approached, like the whole of the exter- nal front, by a flight of steps, is surrounded by an arcade and portico, under one of the arches of which, facing the entrance, is a splendid bronze statue of Louis XIV. Around the freize of this court were marble tablets, inscribed with the principal 268 SEVENTH AKRONDISSEMENT. events of the life of Louis XIV., from 1659 to 1689; and cir- cular compartments in the spandrils of arches were charged with armoria J bearings, now effaced. The lucarnes of this court are very beautiful and light. The circular roof of the principal staircase is divided into compartments, the mouldings and interior parts of which are richly sculptured. On the land- ing-place is a curious groined roof, constructed to imitate wood- work, and is a monument of the taste of the times of Henry II. The Grande Salle, or Salle da Trone, occupies the whole length of the central portion of the building, and is a most magnificent apartment. The fire-places are vast, and are crowned with recumbent figures in white marble, of the same dale as the staircase. On one side of the court extends the Salle de St. Jean, the only remaining part of the church of that name. The ball room, which was built of wood, over the garden of the hotel, is now in process of demolition. !t could contain from 2,000 to 3,000 persons. The additional buildings on the northern side of the court form the residence of the Prefect of the department; those on the south and cast, various public offices. The most interesting recollections arc connected with this fine monument of the 16th century, which from the time of its erection has witnessed many of the most important political acts of the revolutions with which the country has been vi- sited. The room where Robespierre held his council, and where he attempted to destroy himself, is shown, as well as the window where General Lafayette embraced the present King, and showed him to the people in 1830, as the best of re- publics. It is the central one of the Grande Salle, and is the same window from whence Louis XVI. spoke to the populace With the cap of liberty on his head. All the revolutions of France have been ratified in this historical room, and have been put into execution on the Place de Greve beneath. The furniture of the Grande Salle is not worthy of the apartment, and is of the present century, though said to be almost coeval with the building, by the persons who show it. This, as well as every part of the edifice, will be completely restored accord- ing to the new plans, and all the public offices connected with the prefecture of the department will be joined together under the same roof. Strangers are readily admitted. In the buildings of the Hotel de Ville is the Bibliotheque de la Ville, the entrance to which is in the rue Tourniquet. It was bequeathed to the town of Paris, by M. Moriau, Procureur St. MMtl 269 ia Hoi et de la Ville, in 1759. It is rich in manuscripts upon the history of France, and contains 50,000 volumes. It is open to the public from 10 to 4 daily, except Wednesdays, Sundays, and festivals, and from August 15 to September 30, The Place be Greve is celebrated as having been the scene of most of the public deeds of blood that have occurred in the capital. Its pavement is stained with the blood of the victims of all revolutions, and with that of the criminals ex- ecuted by the hand of justice, till within the last six years. Great improvements in the architectural appearance of this place will be made by the intended extension of the Holel de Ville, and the widening of the quay. In the north-west cor- ner of it may still be perceived one of those beautiful turrets formerly so abundant in Paris. The Pont d'Arcole, which leads from the Place de Greve to the lie de la Cite, is a small suspension-bridge for foot-passengers only, who pay a toll for passing. It was erected after the designs and under the direction of M. Duvergier, and was opened on the 21st of December, 1828. Its lenglhis 100 yards, and its breadth 5. The chains pass over a small arch- way of masonry, erected in the middle of the river. This bridge is celebrated for the slaughter made on and about it during the conflict of the Eoyal Guards and the people in 1830. It derived its present name from a young man, who, heading the people in their advance upon it with a flag in his hand, was killed under the archway in the middle ; and from his name being Arcole, added to the similarity of this trait of courage to one shown by Napoleon at Areola, the present ap- pellation arose. There is a project for rebuilding it on a larger scale. The visitor may next proceed along the Quay Pelletier, and up the rue des Arcis, to St. Merri, 2, rue St. Martin, parish church of the 7th. arrondissement. — This church was originally a small chapel dedicated to St. Pierre des Bois, near which St. Mederic or St. Merri died in 700. In the year 1200, the church being built on the site of the chapel, took for its patron St. Merri, whose relics it contained. The present edifice was begun in 1520, but was not finished till 1612. It is a cruciform church, having the northern transept not so deep as the southern one, and the tower placed at the south- western angle of the nave. Double aisles are on each side of the nave, but not of the 23, 270 SEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT . choir: behind the tower, on the southern side of the nave, a large chapel of the Holy Sacrament was erected in 1754. The western front has a very good portal of excellent Workmanship of the date 1520, and the western end of the church is altogether of an earlier style than the choir and its chapels. Two turrets are placed at the junction of the choir and its apse. In the interior, the nave and choir have large clerestory windows with good tracery, but no triforium, and the transepts have each a fine rosace, that of the southern transept being the most elaborate. The junctures of the vaulting, mouldings, and piers, are all made without imposts, according to'the style prevalent in France in the 16th century, except in the chapels of the choir, where curious examples of large circular pillars with bands for capitals occur. The key- stones of the vaulting ribs of the nave and of the aisles are good specimens of the workmanship of the time ; and the roof of the cross is covered with rather late flamboyant tracery. Near a small door in the northern aisle of the choir, a vessel for holy water, charged with armorial bearings, is a curious Object; and the structure of the northern aisle of the nave, being a series of chapels opening into each other, is worthy of notice. The choir was barbarized in the years 1751-4. In the chapel of the Sacrament is a good picture, by Golson, of St. Charles Borromeo at Milan, and another of St. Chrysostom, by Peron. In the southern transept, a Descent from the Cross, probably a copy, is of some value, and, in the passage leading to the sacristy, is a fine Visitation of the Sick. The two last chapels of the southern aisle of the choir also contain some good paintings. In the windows of the choir, transepts, and chapels, are st ill preserv ed some fine specimens of painted glass, said to have been executed by Pinaigricr. The tower of this church has become unfortunately famous from the events of 1832, and from the obstinate resistance made in it and the adjoining streets by a handful of young men against the king's troops. The western front is shortly to be com- pletely restored by the city of Paris. In the rue du Gloitrc St. Merri, a house of stately archi- tecture, of the early part of the reign of Louis XlV., is to be observed. At the corner of the rues Maubuee and St. Martin, is the Fontaine Maubuee, built in 1733 on the spot where a fountain existed early in the 14th century* ABATTOIR DE POPINCOURT. 271 EIGHTH ARRONDISSEMENT.(l) On entering the 8th arrondissement by the rue Popincourt, at the northern end, the visitor will pass by a large barrack for infantry, and will find a small fountain ornamented with bas-reliefs, opposite to which is St. Ambroise, 2d district church of 8lh arrondissement. — This church was built for a convent of nuns, called the Annonciades , in 1639. It was enlarged in 1802, and annexed to the parish of Ste. Marguerite. It consists of a nave, choir, and side aisles; but is perfectly plain in its architecture, and of small dimensions. There is a large chapel of the Virgin, opening into the eastern aisle. On the east wall of the nave, is a curious picture of a nun wearing a crown of thorns at prayer; a St. John the Baptist preaching in the wilderness; and, at the entrance of the choir, an oblong picture of the Adoration of the Magi. On the west wall, is a remarkable Ecce Homo, and a Magdalene, of the school of Mignard. The altar-piece is a large picture of St. Ambrose protecting an Arian from his enemies, by Wafflard, of the modern French school. Behind the church of SI. Ambroise, is the Abattoir de Popincourt, the largest of the five esta- blishments of the kind in Paris, and which may he taken as a model for all the others, which only differ from it in size and the position of their buildings. It was erected in 1810, and con- sists of 23 piles of building, placed on a sloping ground, and arranged within an enclosure of walls 645 feet by 570. In front of the abattoir, a small public walk is planted, and, at the entrance, are the two pavilions, containing the bureaux of the administration. To the right and left of the central court, whichis438 feet in length by 291 in breadth, arc four build- ings, separated by a road which traverses the ground in its whole breadth. These are the slaughter-houses : they are each 141 feet long by 96 broad ; a flagged court separates them into two piles, each of which contains eight slaughter- houses for the use of the butchers, who keep the keys of those respectively belonging to them. Each slaughter-house re- ceives air and light from arcades in the front walls. Above (i) All that part of the 9th arrondissement which lies between the fosse de la Bastille and the rue St» Paul is included under this head. ■EIGHTH ARRONDISSEMENT. are spacious attics for drying the skins and depositing the tallow; and that they may be always cool, a considerable projection has been given to the roofs. Behind these slaugh- ter-houses are two ranges of sheds, containing sheep-folds, and at their extremities two stables: each of these buildings contains its loft for forage, and completes on the sides of the court the principal masses of building which form the esta- blishment. At the bottom of the court, in which there is a commodious watering-place, and folds for the cattle, are two detached buildings, destined for melting the tallow. They are traversed in their length by a broad corridor, which gives access to four separate melting-houses, below which arc cellars, containing the coolers. Beyond these, on a line pa- rallel to the outer wall, are two buildings raised on cellars, in which the skins are kept; the upper part is destined for the skins of calves and sheep. In the remotest part of the ground, in front of the entrance, is a double reservoir, in ma- sonry, resting on vaults, under which are stands for carriages; the water is raised into it by a steam-engine placed between the two basins, which, together, are 228 feet in length. Cattle and sheep, on entering Paris, are immediately taken to one of the abattoirs, and are there kept at the cost of the butcher. The slaughtering is carried on every afternoon, and the meat is taken to the shops every night. At the abattoir de Popin- court the weekly slaughtering is nearly as follows : 700 oxen, 200 cows. 800 calves, and 2,000 sheep; these numbers being rather under the general average. The establishment is su- perintended by a resident inspector of police, and gives occu- pation in its internal arrangements, independently of the butchers and iheir servants, to 14 families. The whole is conducted with very extraordinary cleanliness, more than could be expected from the nature of the uses to which it is applied, and strangers are readily admitted, on application at the porter's lodge. The rue St. Maur leads from hence into the rue de la Ro- quette. Here the visitor will immediately be struck with the aspect of the two prisons, called La Roquette and Nouveau Bicetre, lately erected there. (See Prisons, and Barriers de St. Jacques, 11th arrondissement.) The Barriere d'Aulnay, at the upper end of this street, which is lined with the shops of dealers in tombs, stone-masons, and persons who sell fune- real garlands, opens in front of the CEMETERY OF PERE LA CHAISE. 273 Cemetery of Pere la Chaise. — This tract of ground on the slope of a hill extending from Belville to Charonne, on the north-east of Paris, was celebrated in the 14lh century for the beauty of its situation ; under Louis XIV. as the residence of Pere La Chaise ; during 150 years as the country-house of the Jesuits; and in the present day as the principal cemetery of the French capital. In the earliest ages of the monarchy, this spot was called Champ I'Eveque, and without doubt be- longed to the Bishop of Paris. In the 14th century, a wealthy grocer, named Regnault, erected upon the ground a magnifi- cent house, which the people called la Folic Regnault. After the death of Regnault, this mansion was bought by a female devotee, and presented to the community of the Jesuits in the rue St. Antoine. It continued to bear its former name till the reign of Louis XIV., who authorised the Jesuits to call it Mont Louis. That monarch being particularly attached to Pere La Chaise, his confessor, appointed him superior of this establishment in 1765, and Mont Louis then became the focus of the Jesuitical power in France. The house was enlarged, and the garden extended and ornamented. Upon the sup- pression of the order of the Jesuits, Mont Louis was sold by a decree, dated August 31, 1763, to pay the creditors of the community. It afterwards passed through several hands, and was at length purchased for 160,000 fr. by M. Frocbot, pre- fect of the department of the Seine, to be converted into a ce- metery. It then consisted of 42 acres. M. Brongniart was appointed to adapt this spot to its new destination ; and he preserved whatever could be rendered subservient to the use or embellishment of the new establishment. To render access easy winding paths were formed, a wide paved road was opened to the spot where the mansion of Pere La Chaise for- merly stood, and with the shrubs and fruit trees were mingled cypresses and weeping willows. The cemetery of Pere La Chaise was consecrated in the beginning of 1804; and on 21st May, of the same year, the first corpse was buried there. Its present extent is nearly one hundred acres, and it is en- tirely surrounded by walls. The advantageous situation of this spot, upon the slope of a hill, surrounded by luxuriant valleys and rising grounds, and commanding an extensive view of a picturesque and glowing landscape, has occasioned it to be chosen by the most distinguished personages as the place of their interment ; consequently no Parisian cemetery 274- EIGHTH ARUONDISSEMENT. can vie with that of PereLa Chaise in the number and beauty of its monuments. Some of them, of large dimensions and elegant architecture, are in the form of temples, sepulchral chapels, funeral vaults, pyramids, and obelisks; others pre- sent cippi, columns, altars, urns, etc., variously ornamented ; many are surrounded by columns of wood or iron, within which are planted flowers and shrubs ; and near some of them are benches to which kindred and friends repair to give vent to feelings of affection and regret. A subterranean canal, which conveyed water to the Maison de Mont Louis, still exists, and furnishes a sufficient supply to keep the plants and herbage in perpetual verdure. In this cemetery there are three kinds of graves : — the perpetual graves, the tempo- rary graves, and the fosses communes. The last are four feet and a balf deep, in which the poor are gratuitously bu- ried in coffins placed close to, but not upon, each other. These trenches are re-opened every five years, that term being sufficient for the decomposition of bodies in this clayey soil ; but the ground of each grave maybe bought either for six years or for ever, at the time when the trenches are about to be re-opened, in the event of it not being in the line of any road it is in contemplation to form. Application for the pur- chase of ground is made at the Bureau des Cimetieres, Hotel de Ville. (See Physical Statistics, Cemeteries, etc.) The ce- metery of Pere La Chaise is appropriated to the interment of the inhabitants of the 5th, 6th, 7lh, Slh, and 9th arrondissc- menls only, except in the case of the purchase of ground for ever, when remains may be brought there from any part of the capital, or even of the kingdom. The gateway, which is immediately opposite the barrier, is placed in the middle of a semi-circular recess ; and is adorned with funereal orna- ments, and inscriptions in Latin, from the Scriptures. It leads into a semicircular area, on each side of which is a lodge* The divisions on the right and left of the avenue op- posite the entrance present nothing worth notice. Taking the road to the right at the extremity of the avenue, a court is passed on the right in which is the porter's lodge. A door to the left of the court leads to the Jews' burial ground. It contains handsome monuments of Calmer ; Joseph, the money- changer in the Palais Royal, who was robbed and stabbed by Rata and Malaguti ; Madame Fould, and M. Diaz Carvalho. Beyond this spot, on the right, stands the most picturesque and CEMETERY Oh' PERK LA CHAISE. 275 interesting monument in the cemetery, namely, the lom]> of Abelard and Heloisa. It consists of a sepulchral chapel of pointed architecture of the 13th century, formed by M. Le- noir, out of the ruins of the celebrated abbey of the Paraclete founded by Abelard, and of which Heloisa was the first ab- bess. Its form is a parallelogram, 14 feet in length by 11 in breadth ; and its height is 24. A pinnacle 12 feet in eleva- tion rises out of the roof, and four smaller ones, exquisitely sculptured, terminate the angles. Fourteen columns, six feet in height, ornamented with diversified capitals, support 10 arches, and the latter are surmounted by cornices wrought in flowers. The four canopies are decorated with sculptured figures, roses, and medallions of Abelard and Heloisa. In this chapel is the tomb built for Abelard, by Peter the Venerable, at the priory of St. Marcel. He is represented in a recum- bent posture, the head slightly inclined and the hands joined. By his side is the statue of Heloisa. The bas-reliefs round this sarcophagus represent the fathers of the church. At the foot and on one side of the tomb are inscriptions; and at the angles are four short inscriptions relating to the origin of the monument, its removal, and its erection in the Musees des Monumens Francais, from whence it was transported to the cemetery of Pere La Chaise. Near this spot repose General Murray and Rear-admiral Colbert. Farther on, is a fine mar- ble monument with a medallion of Pierre Louis Serre. On the side of the avenue opposite the chapel of Abelard and Heloisa, are seen two divisions extending to a house on the left occupied by a marble mason. In these divisions the most remarkable monuments are that of the great naturalist, Cu- vier ; those of M. and Mad. Reveillon, of whom the latter was the first victim of the Revolution in 1789, when their paper-hangings manufactory in the Faubourg St. Antoine was burnt by the populace; and that of Mad. PigaultLeBrun. In the next divisions are interred al. Schacheres, shoemaker to Mademoiselle d'Orleans, whose epitaph, composed by himself and inscribed on his tomb before his death, is the ne plus ul- tra of vanity ; the Duchess de Fleury ; the noble family de Coigny ; the Prince de Monaco, who in 1819 drowned him- self, at the age of 01 years ; the Russian princess Galignie, a Gothic monument; the celebrated medical professor Halle ; Deiamhre, the astronomer ; Lord Dormer ; LangJ.es, the Oriental scholar ; the Marchioness de Condorcet ; the famous 276 EIGHTH ARRONDISSEMENT. Regnault St. Jean d'Angely ; Baron Denon, a pedestal sur- mounted by a bronze statue of that distinguished traveller ; the Duke de Laval Montmorency ; the Duchess de Castries, a handsome monument ; young Lallemand, a law-student, killed by a private of the royal guards during a tumult in 1820, and to whose tomb political visits were sometimes made. The next divisions of this section comprised between the principal avenues may be called the classic ground of the cemetery. Here are interred: — the aeronaut Charles, suc- cessor of Montgolfier ; Madame Dufresnoy, surnamed the tenth muse of the age ; the celebrated chemist Fourcroy, a bust of marble ; Hatiy, the mineralogist ; Van Spaendonck, painter of flowers ; Jean and Andre Thouin, of the Garden of Plants; Breguet, the celebrated watch-maker ; Parny, author of the Guerre des Dieux and other poems ; Chenier ; Ber- nardin de St. Pierre, author of Paul and Virginia ; Gretry, the celebrated composer ; Sage, founder of the school of mines ; the poet Delille, a plain tomb of large dimensions, surrounded by palisades, and bearing no inscription but his name ; the Marquis de Boufflers ; Bellanger, architect of the cupola of the Halle au Ble ; Brongniart, architect of the Ex- change; Prevost, inventor of the Panorama, a black marble pyramid ; Visconti, a sarcophagus of black granite surmounted by his bust; Ginguene, a distinguished author; Suard; the celebrated Talma, a plain monument without inscription ; Gericault, painter of the Shipwreck of the Medusa ; Madame Blanchard, who perished July 6th, 1819, by her balloon taking fire, a cippus surmounted by a globe in flames ; and the composer Mehul. After visiting the above monuments, the visitor should cross the avenue and inspect those on the opposite side, as far as the second turning, leaving the chapel behind him. Here are interred Valencienne, landscape- painter; Isabey, sen.; the Baron de St. Jusl, author of the Calife de Bagdad, etc. ; M. Dubouchage, twice a cabinet minister; the Baron des Fontaines, once the owner of the ground where the cemetery is formed ; Mazurier, the actor ; Desaugier, the songster and author of vaudevilles. In the avenue at one extremity of which is seen the chapel, are se- veral handsome sepulchral monuments, which should not es- cape attention. At the other extremity is a circular road, with sepulchral chapels of the families Souriac and Mallet, the latter surmounted by a fine marble group of the Virgin CEMETERY OF I»ERE LA CHAISE. 277 and infant Jesus ; here also are interred the Duke de Frias, who died in exile ; Dr. Percy, a white marble pyramid ; M. le Bailli de Grussol, a superb monument; Dr. Beclard ; Va- lentin Haiiy, who taught the blind to read by means of cha- racters in wood ; Monge, the geometer, professor of the Po- lytechnic school, a handsome sepulchral chapel surmounted by a temple with his bust in marble, erected by his pupils ; and Madame Guizot. A small path leads off, a little south of the principal road to the right, into a newly-acquired part of the cemetery. Here are the tombs of Elisa Mercoeur, the young poetess ; of Labedoyere ; the Sieves family; Marshal Lauriston, etc. The principal road winding round the foot of the hill should next be followed by the visitor. Along its whole extent it presents a succession of the most beautiful tombs. Some of the most remarkable are those of the Duke de Valmy ; Jacob Ricardo, Esq. ; Marshal Kellermann ; the naval tomb of Count Rosilly Mesros ; the Laffitte family, a plain monument; Lanjuinais ; Toulouse; Prince de Castel- cicala ; the wife of Marshal Macdonald ; General Gouvion St. Cyr ; Count Lavalette; Achille Vigier; Hon. Ashley Cooper; Gen. Frere ; Fitzherbert, etc. A rising ground at the eastern end of the cemetery, to which this road has now led the visitor, and from whence there is a most delightful view over Vincennes, is covered with some tombs of remarkably elegant construction ; among them is one of the Marquise de Dalmalie, daughter-in-law of Marshal Soult. The visitor should now mount the hill west of the avenue, and he will then find himself among the marshals of Napoleon, and many of the greatest names of France. The tomb that will first meet his eye, south of the principal road, is the ele- gant sepulchral column of Viscount de Martignac ; after it he will find the monuments of General d' Abadie ; Miot de Melito, mortally wounded at Waterloo; de Sussy, Minister of Com- merce; the celebrated Volney ; the Count de Grave, minis- ter of Louis XVI. ; the Duke Decres, minister of the marine, a monument of large dimensions, on which two bas-reliefs represent naval actions in which he was engaged with the English; Marshal Serrurier ; the Duchess de Mazarin; the Count de la Martilliere, a sarcophagus surrounded by small cannon; la Reveilliere Lcpeaux, a noted character at the Revolution; Hue, the faithful attendant of Louis XVI.; the Abbe Sicard, director of the Deaf and Dumb School ; De- 24 278 EIGHTH ARRONDISSEMKNT. lanneau, founder of the college of 8te. Barbe ; Gen. de Rever- sal! ; Gen. Paclhod, with Eylau inscribed on his tomb ; the Chancellor Cambaceres, an elegant monument; Rabaut-Pom- mier and Mestezart, Protestant ministers, the latter a tomb in the form of a cottage; the celebrated Madame Coltin; Mar- shal Beurnonville, a pedestal of black marble ; the family of Boode, a temple of large dimensions ; Beaumarchais, the dra- matist; Marshal Davoust, Prince d'Eckmuhl, a pyramid of granite ; Marshal Lefevre, a magnificent sarcophagus of wliite marble, with two figures of Fame crowning the bust of the Marshal in relief, a serpent, the emblem of immortality, en- circling bis sword, and the inscription — Soldat, marechal, due de Dantzick, pair de France : Fleurus, Avant-Garde, Pas- sage du Rhin, Allenkirken, Dantzick, Montmirail ; Marshal Massena, Prince d'Essling, a pyramid of while marble, 21 feet in height, a portrait of the Marshal in bas-relief, and the inscription — Rivoli, Zurich, Genes, Es sling ; Marshal Suchet, Duke d'Albufera, a lofty altar tomb,* of beautiful white marble, richly ornamented with bas-reliefs of fine execution ; Gen. Vallesteros; Baron de Yertpre, a handsome monument; General Gollaud, a pyramid of black marble; General Duniuy, an antique tomb of black marble ; the Russian Countess De- inidoff, a most beautiful temple of white marble, the attic supported by 10 columns, in the midst of which is seen a tomb surmounted by a cushion bearing the arms and coronet of the deceased; Lameth, 3 columns placed together bearing each an urn ; Camiile Perier ; Manuel, the celebrated orator of the Chamber of Deputies; Girodet, the celebrated painter, a monument with his bust; Gossuin, a member of the Consti- tuent Assembly; General Foy, a superb monument erected by a national subscription, consisting of a massive sepulchral chapel surmounted by a temple, in which is seen a statue of the general in the act of addressing the Chamber of Deputies ; Benjamin Constant, a small plain tomb ; Dulong; and Marshal Ney . A little to the west of these tombs, and near to the tomb of Gen. Foy, are those of Baron Simon, a pedestal of black marble surmounted by an obelisk and an urn; the Marquis Bessoles; Gen. Count dePully ; Madame de Remuzat, the au- thoress ; the sculptor Lecomte ; the Marchioness de Beauhar- nais, sister-in-law of the Empress Josephine and mother of Ma- dame de Lavalette ; Parmentier, to whom France is in a great measure indebted for the general cultivation of the potatoe, an CEMETERY OF PERK LA CHAISE. 279 elegant tomb erected to his memory by the apothecaries of the capital; General Yignolles; Camille Jordan, a deputy, a hand- some sarcophagus ; Dr. Cullerier; and Captain Cochrane with his brother. Westward of these are the tombs of some great men: Moliere, a sarcophagus of stone, supported by four columns and surmounted by a vase ; La Fontaine, a ce- notaph, crowned by a fox in black marble, and ornamented with two bas-reliefs in bronze, one representing the fable of the wolf and the stork, and the other the wolf and the lamb ; Cardinal Lattier de Bayanne; Laplace, the great astronomer, a tomb of white marble, from which rises an obelisk surmounted by an urn, ornamented with a star encircled by palm-branches and the inscriptions alluding to bis works — Mecanique Celeste — Systeme du Monde— Probability's ; General d'Arbouville, a sepulchral chapel ; Scipion and Casimir Pericr, a plain tomb; General Berckheim; Marshal de Perignon, an antique tomb; Ceierier, a distinguished architect; Madame de St. Julien, surnamed by Voltaire the Papillon Philosophe ; the Countess de la Marcke, illegitimate sister of the King of Prussia, a column of grey marble crowned by an urn ; Mrs. Adamson, a lofty pyramid; the Marquis de Clermont Gallerande, who, on the memorable 10th of August, placed himself between Louis XVf . and the mob, to defend his sovereign ; and a lofty obelisk of the Gem 01 id family. The visitor is now recommended to ascend the hill, and to examine that part of the cemetery which lies beyond the straight road that is formed along the brow of the hill. Here he will find numerous English tombs, and many that are exceedingly beautiful. Beginning from the eastern end of this road, where he had previously turned off to the, tombs of the marshals, he will find those of Count Chaptal ; the Perregaux family ; Dr. Campbell ; Mr. Koch; Picot; Blake-Hugot; Count Rougemout de Lowen- berg, a handsome tomb; the family Craufurd d'Orsay ; Miss Luscombe, with an elegant Latin inscription ; Picard, the dramatist; Sir M. Cromie ; the Delessert family; Madame Manrenq, a white marble column, round which some living ivy is most tastefully trained; Lady Headley ; Sir W. Keppel, and a great number of other English tombs. Here too are the monuments of the Duke of Fernan Nunez, Spanish Am- bassador; of the Count de Montmorency; Lady Granville Temple, a sepulchral urn; Count Daru, Author of the History of Venice; Don M. L. Frquijo, a handsome circular 280 EIGHTH ARRONDISSEMENT, temple; and a remarkably beautiful chapel without any in- scription, hut very sumptuous in its details, standing imme- diately next to it. A little farther to the west, and on the same side of the avenue, is the tomb of a son of the Marquis di San Tommaso, a most exquisite piece of sculpture, with an angel surmounting it. Beyond this, at the end of the avenue, is a handsome tomb, with a lofty obelisk erected to the memory of the daughter of the Duchess de Duras ; and near it is the elegant tomb of the Marquis d' Argence. From this part of the cemetery the stranger may follow the walk which leads towards the south. He will pass near the tombs of Naldi, a celebrated vocalist; Tallien, who after having wielded the destinies of France, died in abject poverty ; the Abbe Sabatier de Cabre, who was the first that demanded the convocation of the States-General in 1789 ; the family Delattre, a stone obe- lisk; M. Boulard, who undertook a journey to the quarries of Carrara, to buy the marble for the construction of his tomb; De Seze, the illustrious defender of Louis XVL, an elegant pyramid; and Madame Heim, daughter of the celebrated sta- tuary, and w ife of the painter of that name. The visitor will now arrive at the chapel of the cemetery, which is a plain but elegant Doric building, about 56 feet by 28 in length and breadth ; and 56 feet in height. In front of it is a large open space, from whence the most enchanting view of the capital is to be enjoyed ; and from no other spot in the environs does Paris present a more picturesque or more magnificent appear- ance. Behind the chapel and near it will be found the mo- nument of the Abbe Gaultier ; but the reader is recommended to proceed to the celebrated David's tomb, on the right hand of the terrace in front of this edifice, and thence to survey the lower part of the cemetery, and the prospect beyond. Trees and shrubs grow very thickly in this lower part, and a walk through it will be very pleasing, if not interesting. The tombs are principally those of persons "hardly known to fame ;" but there, as elsewhere, much will be found to attract and reward attention. The temporary graves are mostly placed hereabouts; and beyond this some newly-acquired ground has lately been added to the cemetery, in which are the fosses communes. Two long alleys extend from the chapel to the first cross walk that occurs on entering the cemetery; they are planted with overhanging lime trees, and have a solemn but pleasing effect. The division of the cemetery between them, CEMETERY OF Pi': RE LA CHAISE. 281 and in general all this lower portion of it, does not contain many monuments that would interest the general visitor. If this spot be entered during the earlier months of the summer, the odoriferous shrubs which it contains, and the blossoms of its groves of acacia trees, fill the air with the most delightful perfume; and in the cool of the afternoon to visit this, the most interesting place of public burial in the world, is one of the highest gratifications that a traveller can enjoy. Even mi- litary celebrity is not wanting to it; for, in 1814, when the forces of the allied powers approached Paris, formidable bat- teries were established in the cemetery of Fere La Chaise, because it commanded the vast plain extending to Vincenncs. The walls were pierced with loop-holes. The pupils of the school of A 1 fort occupied this position on the 30th of March, and successfully resisted two attacks of Russian troops sent against them by General Barclay de Tolly. Upon a third at- tack, however, the Russians made themselves masters of the cemetery; and their possession of the batteries hastened the capture of the village of Gharonne. Paris having capitulated the same evening, the Russians formed their camp in the ce- metery, and cut down many trees for fuel. In 1815, when the combined forces of the allies surrounded Paris a second time, the Administration of Funerals commanded the interments in the cemetery of Pere La Chaise to be suspended, in order to prevent the exposure of the attendants and workmen to the enemy's balls, which were showered down in that direction. The ancient burial-ground of Ste. Catherine was re-opened, and all the persons who died during the fortnight previous to the King's return to Paris were there interred. Since those times of trouble the sacred enclosure of this cemetery has not been disturbed by any other intruders than the constantly flowing tide of the living bringing hither the dead, or the crowds of the curious on Sundays and festivals. Pere La Chaise is one of the most beautiful as well as interesting sights of Paris. To inspect it, as it deserves, would require many days, and once seen it is never forgotten. Although it cannot be denied that from the elegance and magnificence of many of its monumenls,(l) the ideas conveyed by it to the (t) It has been calculated that, during the 3a years this ground has been devoted to its present purpose, not less than ioo millions of francs, or 4 millions sterling, have been expended in the erection 24, 282 EIGHTH ARRONDISSEMENT* mind speak almost as much of the living and their works as of the dead and their memory, yet, it must be confessed, that it is impossible to walk through this city of those that are gone, without receiving from the ramble a silent but an impressive lesson of good.(l) On leaving the cemetery, the visitor is advised to follow the outer boulevard, as far as the Barriere du Trone. — Here he will find two plain but lofty columns, not finished, but destined to have borne war- like trophies on the lower part of their shafts. They are con- spicuous objects from many parts of Paris. The road from hence leading to Vincennes is wide, with a fine avenue of trees on each side: the view, too, from hence over Paris is delightful. The large circular space immediately within the barrier serves as a spot for the holding of public festivals for this quarter of Paris ; and displays of fire- works, shows, games, etc., take place here whenever they are given by Government in the Champs Elysees. A project exists of forming a wide street in a straight line from hence to the Louvre ; a thing that would greatly improve the capital; no probable date, however, can be assigned for the commencement of so vast an undertaking. The rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, which leads westward from hence, and is a wide though not a well-built street, is going to be planted and paved, the same as the boulevards. The stranger will now perceive the Marche aux Fourrages, and will then pass on to the Maison d'Enghien, 8, rue de Picpus.— -This small hospi- tal, called after the unfortunate duke whose name it bears, was founded by his mother, the Duchess of Bourbon, in 1819. Since the death of that princess it has been supported by Mademoiselle Adelaide dOrleans. The situation is airy, and the utmost cleanliness and comfort prevail in the establish- ment. It contains 50 beds, of which 18 are for women. The Soeurs de St. Vincent de Paule attend upon the inmates. of the monuments: and it will be a subject of regret to think that, from the slight nature of their construction, the greater part of them will probably not exist at the end of the century. (i) For the convenience of the stranger in Paris, it may he men- tioned that an omnibus leaves the Place du Carrousel for the ceme- tery, and vice versdj every 5 minutes, from 8 in the morning till dusk. DEPOT BE FOURRAGES* 283 A little farther on in the same street is the Hopital Milt- taire de Picpus y No. 18 : sick soldiers are now, however, sent to the Veil de Grace, and this hospital is consequently empty. Nearly opposite to it, at No. 15, was once a convent of the order of St. Augustin, now converted into a boarding-school, but still retaining the chapel of the religious house. Within the walls of this establishment is a small private cemetery, containing the remains of several noble families, de Noailles, de Grammont, de Montaigu, Rosambo, Lamoignon, etc., and among them those of Lafayette. Here, in a quiet corner of a spot almost unknown, and beneath a very simple tomb, the purest public character of modern times lies by the side of his wife, surrounded by bis relations. In an adjoining place of sepulture, many victims of the reign of terror have like- wise found a resting-place. The visitor, who desires to see this interesting, though small, cemetery, may readily obtain permission on application at the porter's lodge. The rue de Picpus is remarkable for the number of schools which it contains, and for which it is admirably suited by its healthy position. On pursuing it the stranger will arrive at the barrier of the same name, and will then find himself in the village of Bercy ; which contains nothing to call for his atten- tion, except a small church lately erected, and the warehouses for wine, which here stretch for nearly half a mile along the banksof the river. Wine can beleft here without paying the en- trance duty into Paris, and disposed of by the merchant whose house of business is within the walls of the capital. The shore of the river may here be seen at times covered with casks of wine to a great distance. The Pont de Bercy, or de la Garke, is a small suspen sion bridge, consisting of a central and two subordinate suspen- sions, the chains of which, in two sets of 4 each, pass over tw o piles of masonry erected in the stream. It is slightly but elegantly built. Immediately within the Barriere de la Rapee, stands the grea£ Depot des Fourrages, for the use of the garrison of Paris- — A large and handsome building, 300 feet long, and 4 sto- reys in height, contains the oats and other grain used by the cavalry ; and by its side a long extent of covered sheds, 500 feet in Jength, and 25 feet high, is kept continually full of straw, hay, etc. On the side of the river is a house for the 284 EIGHTH ARRONDXSSEMENT clerks and other persons employed in superintending this es- tablishment. The rues Villiot and de Rambouillet will lead the visitor into the rue de Reuiily, At the western end of which is (lie large pile of buildings, erected by Colbert, for the royal manufactory of looking-glasses (removed to 313, rue St. Benis), but now converted into a barrack. Near this is the Hopital St. Antoine, 206, rue du Faubourg St. Antoine. —The abbey of St. Antoine having been suppressed in 1790. this hospital was established in the buildings, by a decree of the Convention, dated 28 Nivose, An III (January 17, 1795). The structure is modern, it having been rebuilt in 1770, after the designs of Lenoir le Romain. A new ward was con- structed in 1799. The number of beds is 260. The patients here are of the same class as at the Hotel Dieu. They are at- tended by the Sceurs de Ste. Mart he. The days for visiting the patients are Sundays and Thursdays, but strangers are ad- mitted every day. In the rue St." Bernard stands Ste. Marguerite, parish church of the 8lh arrondisse- iraent.— -It was originally a chapel, erected in 1625, but be- came parochial in 1712 ; the nave and aisles are probably of the first date, the choir and transepts of the latter. It is a cruciform church, with single side-aisles in the nave and choir ; the transepts are only chapels, that to the south, of the Virgin, that to the north, of St. Vincent de Paule. A large chapel, dedicated to les Ames en Burgatoire, leads out of the north aisle of the choir; it was built in 1765, and is miserably painted in fresco. In an architectural point of view, this church is without interest: the tower is mean, and the nave very low. But the riches of its pictorial decorations will am- ply repay the visit of the connoisseur. In the south aisle of the nave is a Massacre of the Innocents, about 10 feet by 7, of the Italian school, and probably by Domenichino; a very fine production, remarkable for the number of figures which it con- tains, and for the beauty of some of the female countenances. In the nave is a large picture of the Expulsion of Ste. Mar- guerite, by Waffiard, of the modern French school. The south transept contains a Holy Family, of exquisite execution. It is probably a French or Flemish painting? bearing strong HOSPICE DES ORPHELINS, 285 marks of the school of Rubens, and of the bold delicacy of Vandyke. A very beautiful Assumption stands near it. To the west of the altar of the Virgin is a fine Descent from the Cross, by Lesueur ; on the east, a Christ in the Manger, of the same school. On the east side of this transept is a Salu- tation of Mary and Elizabelh, probably by Lebrun ; an excel- lent picture : and on each side of it are two large paintings by Galloche and Restaut, of St. Vincent de Paule, forming part of a curious and valuable series of pictures relating to that saint, possessed by this church. Over the sacristy door, in the south aisle of the choir, is a painting, about 8 feet by 7, on wood, representing an Entombment of the Saviour, of the school of Albert Durer, and of very great value. From its size, and the circumstance of its being on wood, it is of the highest interest. The north aisle of the choir has a small painting of a female saint, near the altar of St. Genevieve. Behind the high altar, is a bas-relief of the Descent from the Cross, by two pupils of Girardon, in white marble. In the north transept are three large and good pictures of different actions of St. Vincent de Paule, in one of which he is repre- sented with St. Francois de Sales, and in tw r o are portraits of Queen Anne of Austria. A fourth picture, of indifferent ex- ecution, represents the apotheosis of the saint; and there are also in this transept a modern painting of St. Ambroise, and a Christ bearing the Cross. No tradition is preserved in the church of the places from whence these pictures came. The rector of this church was the first Catholic priest who mar- ried at the Revolution. It is said that the unfortunate Dau- phin, son of Louis XVI., who, after the death of his parents, was placed under the care of a cobbler, named Simon, whose ill treatment caused his premature death, was buried in the cemetery of this church. Returning from hence into the rue du Faubourg St. An- toine, the stranger will pass by the Marche Beauveau, which consists of two spacious covered galleries, and was erected in 1779 : it is ill built, dirty, and badly supplied. To the west is the Hospice desOrphelins, 124, rue du Faubourg St. Antoine. — This institution was founded in 1669 for orphan girls, but in 1809 orphan boys were also admitted. Children, whose parents are dead, or whose parents certify that they have not the means of supporting them, are received here from the 286 EIGHTH ARRGNlfrSSEMENT. ages of two to fourteen, by order of the Prefect of the Seine. Poor persons, too, falling ill and being obliged to go to an hospital, may at once send their children here en depot, until they are themselves cured and able to return to their occu- pations. The edifice at present contains 250 children, who are permanently placed there, together with about 20 en depot. They are educated in reading, writing, and arithmetic, and are placed out in various trades, when the time of their resi- dence is expired. The usual adjuncts of an hospital are to be found attached to this institution; the utmost order and cleanliness prevail throughout, and the comforts of the chil- dren arc particularly attended to. A visit to this institution cannot but prove very gratifying. The Sceurs de St. Vincent de Paula have the superintendence of the establishment, and give every facility to the admission and information of stran- gers. This hospital is about to be incorporated with that of the Enfans Trouvcs, whither the children are to be removed ; the buildings are then to serve as an hospice for aged men, who can afford to pay a small annual sum for their support. On the northern side of the same street is the Fontaine Ste. Catherine, erected in 1783, and decorated with pilasters surmounted by a pediment, Nearly opposite to it the rue St. Nicholas leads to the IIopital Royal des Quinze-Vingts, 38, rue de Gharen- ton. — This hospital for the blind was founded by St. Louis in 1260, at the corner of the rue St. Nscaise in the rue St. Honore, and was removed to the Hotel des Motisquetaires Noirs, in 1779, by Cardinal de Rohan. At the Revolution part of the property of this institution was confiscated, but was restored in 1814. The number of families living here is 300, the blind being received with their families, and en- couraged to marry, if single. In a few instances both the husband and wife arc blind. A school is attached to the insti- tution for the education of the children. None are admitted but those absolutely both blind and indigent, and such are re- ceived here from any part of the kingdom. They are lodged, and receive 24 sous a-day for their food and clothing. The chapel of this establishment, dedicated to St. Antoine, was, in 1802, annexed to the parish of Ste. Marguerite, as a chapel of ease. Attached to this establishment are 200 out-door pen- sioners, whose allowance is 150 francs a-ycar. Strangers are admitted to the hospital daily. PLACE 1)E LA BASTILLE. 287 Adjoining it is St. Antoine, first chapel of ease to Ste. Marguerite. — This church, as ahove stated, forms a part of the Ildpital Royal des Quinze-Vingts, but presents nothing interesting. It was built in 1701, and annexed to the parish of St. Marguerite in 1802. The rue du Faubourg St. Antoine ends at the Place be la Bastille. — The Bastille was attacked and captured by the mob on the 14th of July, 1789. In May and June of the following year it was demolished, in pursuance of a decree of the National Assembly, and part of the materials were employed in the construction of the Pont Louis XVI. Its site now forms the Place de la Bastille, and the moat is con- verted into a basin for boats passing through the new canal. In the centre of the place, the construction of a fountain was begun by order of Napoleon, but has been since abandoned. According to the design presented by Denon, a semicircular arch over the Canal Si. Martin was to bear a bronze elephant more than 72 feet high, including the tower supported by the animal. The water was to issue from the trunk of this colos- sal figure; each of whose legs was to measure six feet in diameter, and in one of them was to be a staircase leading to the tower. The great plaister model, of what would have been at the same time a very beautiful as well as singular monument, still stands within the enclosure, exposed to the weather, and daily receiving fresh degradation. That any of the architectural ideas of Napoleon, which were in general so magnificent, should have been frustrated, will now be ■ gene- rally regretted ; and more particularly in the present instance. Under the Restoration it was intended to erect a colossal figure of the city of Paris on the base already constructed for the elephant of Napoleon ; but after the events of July 1830 this plan also was altered, and, on the 28th July of the year fol- lowing, the works of the present monument were commenced in person by King Louis Philippe. The lower part, which was erected by Napoleon, consists of an immense hypcrbo- loidal arch thrown over the canal, round which is placed a vast circular casing of masonry, externally formed into two concentric bases ; the lower one of which was intended to have been the grand basin of the fountain, and is of red Flemish marble, the upper one of white, with lions' heads and laurel wreaths surrounding its cornice at regular intervals. Within 288 EIGHTH ARKONDISSKMENT. this pile of masonry was the apparatus of pipes, etc. for the fountain, with staircases descending to the canal. In the centre of the upper marble base is an immense column of the Doric order, constructed of Russian bronze, similar to that of the Place Vendome, but without any central nucleus of stone. Its dimensions are as follows ; 130 feet in height, and 11 feet in diameter ; but with the pedestal bases and figure on the summit it is 25 feet higher than its rival. A spiral stair- case of 205 steps, with double open balustrades, goes from the base to the summit, and on a cippus placed on the top, a figure representing the Genius of France, 15 feet in height, will stand in the position of the antique flying Mercury. On one half of the surface of the pillar are inscribed in vertical columns of large gilt letters the names of persons who fell at the taking of the Bastille ; and on the other half the names of those who were killed during the three days of July 1830. At each corner of the base is a Gallic cock gilt, supporting laurel wreaths, and on the sides of it are dedicatory inscrip- tions. The architect originally entrusted with the execution of the elephant, M. Alavoyne, was also charged with the erec- tion of this monument ; but, dying very lately, M. Leduc has been commissioned to continue the works, which will be completely finished, and the column solemnly inaugurated, it is said, at the fetes of July 1837. The total cost is expected to be about one million of francs. Strangers are readily admitted on application at the porter's lodge ; or by an order from the Directeur des Monuments et Batiments Publics, au Ministere de V Inter ieur, rue de Grenelle, No. 122. At the entrance of the rue St. Antoine stood the triumphal archway known by the name of the same saint. It was de- molished during the Revolution. On the eastern side of the Boulevard St. Antoine, as it now exists, was the Hotel Beaumarchais; but this magnificent residence of the celebrated dramatist was demolished in 1823, for the pur- pose of forming upon its site a junction canal between the moat of the Bastille and the basin de la Villette. A wall, with handsome water pipes in front, marks t uildings, which are not of much interest, of the Greniera Sel, constructed upon the site of the garden of he Hotel Beaumarchais. About 9,000,000 pounds of salt are annually sold here for the consumption of the capital. THK ARSENAL. 289 Opposite to this building is the small theatre of the Porte St. Antoine. (See Theatres.) At the corner of the rue St. Antoine, No. 212, is The Visitation, a small church built by F. Mansart, in 1032, for the Dames de la Visitation. The dome is supported by four arches, between which are Corinthian pilasters crowned with a cornice. The entrance, elevated upon a flight of 15 steps, is ornamented with two Corinthian columns. The in- terior is richly adorned with scroll work, wreaths of flowers, etc. but contains no pictures. It now belongs to Protestants of the Calvinistic persuasion, and service is performed in French, on Sundays and festivals, at noon. The conventual buildings, destroyed during the Revolution, were very ex- tensive. Between the Place de la Bastille and the river on the Boule vard Bourdon, is the Grenier de Reserve. — This immense storehouse was be- gun by order of Napoleon, in 1807, as a general warehouse for the corn, grain, and flour, required by the city of Paris for four months' consumption. In 1814, however, only the walls of the ground-floor were finished : it was to have con- sisted of five storeys, besides the ground-floor, cellars, and attics. In 1816, the building was proceeded with on a more economical scale, and the ground-floor was roofed in and di- vided internally into three storeys. It is 1,050 feet in length by 60 in breadth, except where the five projecting compart- ments give an additional breadth of 12 feet ; and is 30 feet high. Beneath the whole is a range of cellars, under which four aqueducts were constructed for the purpose of turning flour-mills. Every baker in Paris is obliged to keep con- stantly deposited here 20 full-sized sacks of flour, and, besides this, has the liberty of keeping here as much flour, etc., in store as he pleases, upon payment of a moderate charge for warehouse room. The building will contain 96,000 sacks : the cellars are used as a supplementary entrepot for wine. During the prevalence of the cholera at Paris, in 1832, this building was converted into a temporary hospital: part of it is about to be opened as a free warehouse for flour. Every facility for visiting it is readily granted to strangers, on appli- cation at the bureau attached to the building, in the Place de F Arsenal. The Arsenal immediately joins the Grenier de Reserve. 25 290 EIGHTH AIUIONDISSEMENT. About 1396, the city of Paris built an arsenal upon this spot, which afterwards passed into the hands of the government. A dreadful explosion having taken place in 1563, the buildings were reconstructed upon a more extensive scale, by order of Charles IX. Henry IV. augmented the buildings and garden, and created the office of grand-master of the artillery, in fa- vour of Sully. It was on his way to Sully's house, that Henry IV. was assassinated on the 14th of May, 1610. Louis XIV having caused arsenals to be constructed on the frontiers of the kingdom, the casting of cannon in that of Paris was discontinued. The only use made of the foundries since that period was the casting of the statues which adorn the garden of Marly and that of Versailles. During the regency, in 1718, some of the old buildings were demolished to erect a mansion for the grand-master. In several rooms of this mansion was the valuable library, called BibMotheque de Paulmy, because originally formed by the Marquis de Paulmy d'Argenson. To this collection was subsequently added that of the Duke de la Valliere and several others, when it took the title of Bibliotheque de V Arsenal. During the Restoration it was called the BibUotheque de Monsieur, from its having been purchased by the Count d'Artois, afterwards Charles X. ; but since 1830 it has resumed its appellation de V Arsenal. It is verv rich in history, foreign literature, and poetry, particu- lar^ in Italian works; and contains 190,000 printed volumes, and 6 300 manuscripts, among which are some beautiful mis- sals 'This library is open to the public from 10 till 3 every dav except Sundays and holidays, and from the 15th of Sep- tember to the 3d of November. In the building of the Arse- nal a bed-room and a cabinet of the apartments of Sully, in which he used to receive Henry IV., are still to be seen. They are richlv gilt, and resemble, in the style of their ornaments, the chambre a coucher de Marie de Medicis, at the Luxem- b °c r iose to the Arsenal are to be seen the remains of the once- magnificent convent of the Cehstins, and of their small church which, next to that of 8t. Denis, contained the great- est number of tombs of illustrions personages of any in the diocese of Paris. It was particularly celebrated for the chapel d' Orleans, which was appropriated to the remains of the brother of Charles VI. and his descendants. The archi- tecture of these remains is interesting, as being one of the very THE ARSENAL. 291 few specimens of the pointed style of the 14th century extant in Paris. The whole is in a state of complete degradation, being converted into cavalry stables, barracks, etc. The tombs were preserved by the patriotic architect, M. Lenoir, in the Musee des Monuments Frangais, and two remarkable columnar monuments are still kept at the Louvre in the Musea des Sculptures de la Renaissance. At the corner of the rue St. Paul, are the relics of part of the Hotel de St. Paul, so long a royal residence; they are of very late date. The house is now occupied by a company for distributing through Paris the clarified water of the Seine. Opposite the Celestms is the Pont de Grammont, a small and insignificant wooden bridge, connecting the He de Lou- viers with the main land. At the corner of the rue des Lions, in the rue St. Paul, is a small square turret, of the time of Henri IV. ; and farther up in the same street, on the eastern side, the remains of the church of St. Paul will be perceived embedded in the wall of a house. All the ground between the rue St. Antoine, the moat of the Bastille, the river, and the rue du Figaier, was formerly occupied by the collection of hotels and buildings which Charles V., in 1360-5, purchased of several individuals, and formed into a royal palace, called the Hotel de St. Paul, on account of the proximity of the church. The king inha- bited the hotel of the Archbishop of Sens, at the western extre- mity, and the Hotel de St. Maur was occupied by his brothers. Within the enclosure were several spots, the names of which may still be traced in some of the streets formed on their site, such as the Hotel de Puteymuce, and the buildings de BeautreilUs, des Lions, etc. This palace was however aban- doned by the kings of France for the Palais des Tournelles ; and, in the early part of the 16th century, the buildings, having fallen into bad repair, were successively alienated from the crown, and sold. The visitor will now emerge into the rue St. Antoine, and will find himself nearly opposite to No. 143, the Hotel de Sully..— This edifice is remarkable as the work of Ducerceau, and the residence of the celebrated minister whose name it bears. It is in a good state of preservation* and, from the size of the court and the magnificence of the sculptures, is one of the finest hotels of Paris. On the southern side of the same street, No. 212, at the 292 EIGHTH ARIIONDISSEMENT. corner of the rue du Petit Muse, or de Puteymuce, is a good specimen of the style of the times of Henry IV. By the rue Royale, the stranger will pass into the Place Royale, standing upon the site of the famous Palais des Tournellcs, so called from the vast assemblage of turrets which its buildings presented. This palace, with its parks and gardens, occupied a great extent of ground ; and some of the neighbouring streets, which sliSl bear names con- nected with it, point out the site of some of the principal parts. It was in this palace that the masquerade took place, which so nearly proved fatal to Charles VI.; and it was in the great court that, the tournament was held, in which Henry IL, tilting with the Count de Montgomery, received a wound in the eye, of which he soon after died. This palace was destroyed, in consequence of this event, by Catherine de Medicis, in 1565, and the present place begun in 1604, under Henry IV. The houses are all of red brick, coped with stone, and having high separate roofs ; a wide but low arcade runs under the first storey all round the place. In the middle is a large square, surrounded by iron railings, where Cardinal Richelieu, in 1639, caused an equestrian statue of Louis XIII, to be erected. This was destroyed in 1792, hut has since been restored in white marble by Dupaty and Cortot, in 1829. The figure of the king is easy and graceful, and that of the horse is bold and natural. At the corners of the inclosed square are 4 foun- tains, standing in grass plats, and consisting each of two large shells placed in larger basins. This place was formerly in the centre of the court-end of the town; its inhabitants are now proverbial as being persons who have retired from busi- ness on small fortunes, or branches of the old noblesse, who like to enjoy the stateliness of large and quiet apartments, without the expense of the Faubourg St. Germain. In the rue St. Louis is the Fontaine St. Louis, which consists of a basement sur- mounted by a niche, between two pilasters ; the latter sup- port a pediment, behind which rises a small dome, terminated by a lantern. The niche is filled by a vase upon a pedestal, having on each side tritons seated on dolphins. And at the northern end of the same street, at the corner of the rue de l'Echelle, is the Fontaine du Diable. — The origin of the name is un- known. It was rebuilt, in 1759, and consists of a lofty obe- PONT NEtJF. 293 lisk, upon a pedestal, the torus of which is sculptured in oak- leaves. At the upper angles of a tablet are two tritons sup- porting the prow of a ship. On the eastern side of this street, at the corner of the rue St. Claude, is St. Denis, 3d district church of 8th arrondissement.— On the spot where this elegant church now stands, w r as the chapel of a convent of nuns, destroyed in 1828. The present edifice has a handsome portico of four Ionic columns, with a vestibule behind, and, at the east end, a small Italian tower. The interior is divided into a nave and side aisles : the roof of the latter is supported by a range of eight Ionic co- lumns on either side, and is semicircularly vaulted, while that of the aisles is flat. Both are decorated with rectangular com- partments, containing sculptured ornaments, Over the ves- tibule, at the entrance, is an organ loft; and the high altar stands in a semicircular recess of the east end of the nave, while, at the corners of each aisle, are four chapels, one of which, to the south east, is dedicated to the Virgin. The floor is laid down in stone and black marble, and, in the aisles, are placed plain oak confessionals. This church, as yet, contains no pictures, and is remarkable only for the purity of its archi- tecture. NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. This division of Paris includes only part of what is called the lie de la Cite, the He St. Louis, and a long strip of land on the northern bank of the river, as may be immediately perceived on reference to the map. For the convenience of the reader, the latter part of the arrondissement has been already described while treating of the two preceding ones ; and under the above head there are included, for the same reason, only the two isles de la Cite and de St. Louis. The visitor, on beginning his examination of the ninth ar- rondissement, cannot do better than inspect the Pont Neuf, leading from the Quai de la Megisserie to the Quai Conti. — This bridge was begun byDucerceau, under the reign of Henry III., who laid the first stone on 31st May, 1578. The works were discontinued on account of the trou- bles of the Ugue, and not recommenced till after the accession 25. 294 NINTH ARivONDISSEMENT. of Henry IV., who continued it at his own expense, under the direction of Marchand. It was finished in 1(304. It consists of two unequal parts; that from the lie de la Cite to the northern bank of the Seine, containing seven circular arches, and that to the southern bank only five. Its total length is 1020 feet, and ils breadth 78. The arches are bold ; above them a large projecting cornice supported by thickly-set con- soles, or brackets, sculptured into grotesque heads, runs along the bridge; and on the piers are semicircular recesses, used as shops. On the square area, that projects at the junction of the two parts of the bridge, a bronze statue of Henry IV. was erected in the time of Louis XIII., by his mother, Mary de Medici s. Her father, Cosmo de Medicis, had sent her a bronze horse for this purpose, and a figure of the king to suit it was cast in France. This statue was destroyed in 1792 : and on > its site Napoleon bad made every preparation for the erection of a most magnificent granite obelisk of the extraordinary height of 200 feet, when the events of 1814 put an end to th e project, In 1817, the present statue, cast by order of L oll =s XYIIL, and the expenses of w hich were paid by public sub - scription, was inaugurated on the spot with much ceremonv and a great display of enthusiasm. The model was made by Lemot, and the metal, formed out of several statues at that time taken down, and including those of Napoleon and Desaix, was cast by Piggiani. The total height of the statue is 14 feet, its weight 30,000 pounds, and its cost 337,860fr. It is 'one of the best statues in the capital, and is valuable as an his- toric monument : few can be found placed in such a magni- ficent situation. The pedestal is of white marble, and bears the following inscriptions. Hemic! Magni, Paterno in populum nnimo Notissimi Principle, Sac ram effiftiem, Civilcs inter tumultus, Gallia indignante, Deject am, , , Pest optatum Ludovici XVIII red itnm. Ex omnibus ordinibus cives JErc col I a to Resiituerunt, PLACE DAUPHINS, 295 Necnon et elogium quod Cum effigie simul nholitum Lapidi rtirsus inseribi Curaveiunt. On the opposite end is the following inscription, copied from the pedestal of the former statue ; — Enrico IV., Gailiarum Imperatori Navar, Pi, Ludovicus XIII. Films ejus Opus inclioatum et intermission, Pro dignitate pietatis et imperii Plenius et: amplius absolvii, Emm'. D. C. l\iehclius Commune votum populi promovif. Super illustr. Virl De Bullion, Jjontillicv P. a:rarii F. Faciendum Curaverunt. MJXC.XXXV. Bas-reliefs adorn the sides of (be pedestal. In one, Henry IV, is seen commanding food to be distributed to the inhabitants of Paris, who, during the siege of the capital, had taken re- fuge in his camp ; and in the other, the king, having entered as a conqueror into his capital, stops in the parvis do Noire Dame, and gives orders to the prcvot of Paris to bear to the inhabitants of the city the language of peace. On Use Pont Neuf formerly stood the Pompe de la Samaritaine, so called from a bronze bas-relief in front which represented Jesus and the woman of Samaria. It was built in 1688, to supply water to the Tuileries and the Louvre, and was demolished in 1813. From the middle of this bridge the stranger passes into the Place Dauphine, which was formed in 1608, and received its name in honour of the birth of the dauphin, afterwards Louis XIII. Its form is that of a triangle, and the houses which surround it are irregularly built of stone and brick. In the centre is a fountain, after the designs of Percier and Fontaine, erected in 1803, to the memory of General Desaix, who fell at the battle of Marengo. It was formerly Use resi- dence oT the principal lawyers and officers of the Parhment, and was the scene of some very curious festivities in the time of Louis XIV. Immediately behind the Place Dauphine lies the 296 NINTH ARHONMSSEMENT. Palais de Justice, an immense pile of various buildings * the visitor will do well to pass along either of the quays, and to enter it by the rue de la Barillerie. The kings of France made it their residence until nearly the end of the 14th cen- tury ; part of it is said to have been erected by Robert, son of Hugh Capet, about the year 1000 ; it was much enlarged by St. Louis, and almost entirely rebuilt by Philippe le Bel, in 1313. Louis XL, Charles VIIL, and Louis XIL, also made considerable additions to it; and Francis L resided in it in 1531. In 1618. the ancient and magnificent hall, called la Salle du Palais, was destroyed by fire ; and the present hall was erected on its site in 1622, by Desbrosses. In 1766, another fire destroyed the buildings extending to the Sainte Chapelle, and the front of the actual edifice was then begun by some members of the Academy of Architecture. That part of the building which fronts the rue de la Barillerie consists of a central edifice and two wings enclosing a court, the side of which towards the street is shut in by a very richly-worked railing, which has been battered and altered at every revolu- tion. The central front is approached by a lofty flight of steps, and is decorated by four Doric columns, supporting above the entablature and balustrade four colossal figures. From the roof rises a low square dome, like those of the Louvre and Tuileries. The wing on the northern side contains the hall erected in 1622, called the Salle des Pas Perdus, and which serves as a place of meeting in front of many of the courts. It is divided into two parts by a line of arcades extending along it in the middle ; the ceiling is vaulted, and the co- lumns, etc., are of the Doric order. Its length is 216 feet, and its width 84. One of the most remarkable things which it contains is a very fine monument to the memory of Males- herbes, of most excellent execution, the upright minister and bold defender of Louis XVI., erected in 1822, after the designs of Dumont. From the Salle des Pas Perdus, doors lead to the Court of Cassation, the Tribunal de Premiere Instance, and other aparments ; underneath it is a fine vaulted room, of the 13lh century, called the Souriciere, or Cuisine de Si. Louis. In the central building is the Royal Court, and behind it the Court of Assizes. The southern wing contains the apart- ments of the officers of the archives, and the sacristy, etc., of the Sainte Chapelle. The roofs of all this part of the building are formed into long low rooms for the reception of the judi- CONCIEItGERIE, 297 cial section of the archives ; those over the Salle des Pas Pcrdus*, erected towards the end of the reign of Louis XV., arc vaulted with hollow bricks invented by the architect Antoine. Long passages filled with shops are constructed on the same floor with the court, and arc exceedingly ill-lighted and inconvenient. From the central one leads a long gallery to the Court of Cassation, and the dependent offices, which has lately been restored, in the style of the times of Francis I., at great! expense and with much taste; a smaller one opening into it lias the panels filled with portraits of the most celebrated French legists. At the end of this gallery is a statue of St Louis, remarkable not for itself, but for its position; it stands against the wall of one of the towers of the palace, in which the will of Louis XIV., immediately on ils being received by the Par- lement, was enclosed in a recess, and bricked up, in order that its execution might become impossible. This recess is said to have been just where the statue of St. Louis now stands. The Court of Cassation holds its sittings in a room which was formerly the grande chambre of the Par lenient. The gothic ornaments were removed, and in their place was substituted, by Peyre, in 1810, a decoration simple in design but rich in ornament. This court is adorned with statues of the Chancellors d'Agucsseau and l'Hopital, by Besoine. The ceiling of the Court of Assizes is ornamented with paint- ings by Jean and Bon Doullogne. The other courts, including the Royal Court, are very ordinary apartments, and, some of them, quite inadequate to the purposes they are intended to fulfil. On all these accounts the intended restoration of the palace will be highly desirable. A most interesting part of the Palais de Justice is the Conciergerie, which was the prison of the palace, when it was used as a royal residence. Its name is derived from the concierge (keeper), who was the chief of a jurisdiction called Bailliage ilu Palais, had the title of bailli, and enjoyed several privileges. The buildings which form this prison still retain the character of feudal times, and have lately been repaired and partially restored. The Conciergerie is still used as a prison for persons during their trial ; and they are brought here, a few days previously, from the other houses of deten- tion. (See Prisons.) The entrance is by an arch on the Quai des Lunettes, which leads to a court, and from thence to the great gate of the prison. A sombre vestibule communicates 298 NINTH AURONDISSKMENT. wiilithe greffe, the advocates' room, the gaoler's apartments, and the parloirs. The room in which the late Count de Lavalette, the circumstances of whose escape are well known, was confined, now serves for the common uses of the prison. The dungeons in which the unfortunate Princess Elizabeth, sister of Louis XVI., was confined ; another in which Robes- pierre was imprisoned ; and a third which was occupied by Louvel, the murderer of the Duke of Berry, are no longer used. The prcan, for male prisoners, presents a kind of area or court, 180 feet in length by 60 in breadth, round which is a gallery leading to the prisoners' rooms, and communicating by stairs to the upper storeys. It was partly constructed in the 13th century, and partly rebuilt in modern times. The Conciergerie will ever be memorable for the confinement of the unfortunate queen Marie Antoinette, who was imprisoned here during two months and a half, and only left it for the scaffold. The room which she occupied was afterwards diminished to half its size, and transformed into an expiatory chapel. This was beautifully fitted up with medallions to the memory of the Royal Family, who suffered on the scaffold, and on the altar was a well-composed inscription, said to hayebeen written by Louis XVIII. (1) There were also some (i ) The following is the inscription above alluded to : — D.O.M. Hoc in loco Maria Antonia Joseph a Joanna Austriaca Ludovici XVI. vidua, Conjuge trucidato, Liberis creptis ? In earcerem conjecta, Per dies LXXVI* serumnis luctu et squalore adfecta, sed Propria virtute innixa TJt in solio, ita et in vinculis Majorem for tuna se praebuit. A scelestissimis denique hominibus Capite danmata, Morte jam imminente, internum pietatis, fortitudinis, omniurnque virtutum Monumentum hie scripsit, Die XVI. Octobris, MDCGXGIII. Restitute tandem regno, Career in sacrarium conversus Dicatus est. SAlNTE CIIAFELLE. 299 exquisite pictures by Simon, Pajou, and Drolling, represent- ing events connected with the last days of the Queen. Since 1830, all the decorations of this chapel have been obliterated, the pictures removed, and the apartments devoted to other uses. This prison has several times been the theatre of dread- ful massacres. The most recent was on the 2d and 3d of September, 1792, when 239 persons were inhumanly mur- dered. For permission to see the interior of the Conciergerie, application must be made by letter to Iff. le Prefet de Police, Quai des Orfevres. On the Ouai de 1'florloge will be per- ceived the two turrets flanking the ancient gateway of the Conciergerie, lately restored ; the most western of these con- tains the prison of Marie Antoinette. There is a third and lower turret still farther to the west ; and to the east a tall square one at the corner of the rue de la Barillerie. In this tower was placed the first large clock seen in Paris. It was made in 1370, by a German, named Henry de Vic, whom Charles V. invited to France. The bell, called tocsin du Palais, cast at the same time, and hung in the same tower, repeated the signal given by the bell of the church of St. Germain 1'Auxerrois for the massacre on St. Bartholomew's day. The wall of the Palais contiguous to the tower, fronting the Marche aux Flours, is decorated with two figures, by Germain Pilon, of large proportions and in high relief, repre- senting Justice and Strength. To the south of the Palais de Justice stands the most sump- tuous edifice connected with the old palace of the kings of France, The Sainte Chapelle, erected in 1245 — 3, by Pierre de Montereau, for the reception of the relics bought by St. Louis of Baldwin, Emperor of Constantinople, and dedicated in 1248. Upon the spot where this splendid building now stands, was a chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas, by Louis le Gros. it consists of an upper and lower chapel ; the former communi- cated with ihe palace, and was intended for the king and court alone : the latter opens upon the courts below, and A.D. MDCCCXVL, Ludovici XVIII. regnantis anno XXII., Comitc de Gazes a sccuritate publico. Piegis ministro, Priefecto eedilibusque curantibus. Quisquis hie ades, Adorn, achirirare, precare. 300 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. formerly served as a parochial church for the precincts of the palace. The upper chapel, not divided into any aisles, has the four spaces on each side, between the slender piers and external buttresses supporting the roof, formed each into a window of four lights. The eastern end is irregularly octa- gonal ; and the five windows which it contains, with two lalC3*al ones, arc formed on a similar plan, and are of two lights each. The windows all rest upon a series of arches supported by detached columns, which form a kind of panel- work, to the height of 12 feet above the floor, and are there separated from the bases of the window-shafts above by a cor- nice-moulding, filled with sculptured flowers. The vaulting of the roof is quadripartite ; and the vaulting ribs rest on the capitals of slender shafts, which are clustered on the piers, and descend unbroken to the floor. The sides and eastern end of the chapel are as they were erected by St. Louis; the architecture is exceedingly pure, and the workmanship of the more solid as well as of the ornamental parts, most excellent. The shafts, piers, and roof were all painted; the former in red and green, with gilded capitals; the latter in azure blue studded with silver stars ; the walls behind the lateral arcades were encrusted with curious imitations of enamelled work. The windows are all filled with the stained glass originally put into them in 1248, and present a collection that is not only unrivalled in magnitude for that early period, but which is invaluable for the elucidation afforded by it of the dress and manners of the time. The execution of it is rude, but the colours cannot now be produced or imitated : the effect is exceedingly grand. The western front was repaired and altered in the 15lh century, when a large circular window, with very elaborate flamboyant tracery, was inserted, and filled with glass of the same age. At the eastern end was the altar, surmounted by a rich and lofty shrine, connected with a row of detached and slender arcades; while in front of each pier stood, under a canopy, the statue of a saint, of the size of life. A screen, of the style and period of the Renaissance , crossed the chapel at the second window from the west ; and in the 15th century a small oratory was erected on the southern side, erroneously called the oratory of St. Louis. The lower chapel has the roof supported by columns and arcades, and strongly vaulted in order to bear the weight of the floor above, thus having the appearance of aisles on SAINTE CHAPELLE. 301 each side; it has not been altered from the time of St. Louis ; and is very rich in the tomb-stones with which the floor is entirely occupied. The portals and doorways of both the upper and lower chapels are richly ornamented, and contain some rare and valuable architectural details. Two turrets at the western end are of the date of the foundation, but their summits are of the 15th century. The roof is very pointed, and of excellent construction ; from it there rose a lofty spire of wood, which, after having been partly burnt, was taken down a little before the Revolution. The height of the edi- fice from the ground is 110 feet, its total length is the same, and its breadth 34 feet. The height of the spire, from where it rested on the vaulting of the roof, was 100 feet. A richly- endowed chapter, the head of which had the style and dignity of a prelate, was founded here by St. Louis, and became principally known to posterity for its litigious disposition, which has been so admirably satirized by Boileau in his im- mortal Lutrin. The poet was himself buried in the lower chapel, where his tombstone is still, it is believed, to be seen. The relics purchased by St. Louis were, the crown of thorns, a piece of the true cross, etc. : besides these* the chapter possessed some antique gems that were invaluable, and which are now to be seen in the Bibliothequc du.Roi. The Sainte Chapclle and its treasure cost St. Louis a sum equal to 2,800,000fr. of the present money. At the Revolution it was fortunately converted into the depot of the archives of the Courts of Justice, not, however, until all the internal deco- rations of both chapels had been destroyed. The windows have escaped almost miraculously, both then and at the emeutes in 1831. The government and the municipal coun- cil of Paris are now intent upon completely repairing and restoring this edifice, and the works are expected to begin immediately. The lower chapel, being filled with archives up to the roof, is difficult of access. Application must be made to the Porter cf the Cour des Cornptcs. Admission into the upper chapel is readily granted by the learned keeper of the Archives, on application at his office in the south wing of the Palais de Justice, behind the chapel. The whole of the Palais de Justice is about to be entirely isolated by means of streets extending from the rue de la Barillcrie to the entrance of the Prefecture of Police, and from one quay to the other, through the Cour de Ilarlay, parallel to the street of the same 26 302 NINTH ARR0NMSSEMENT. name. In this court a new front on a grand scale is to be erected : the buildings surrounding the Sainte Chapelle are all to be faced or altered to correspond to that monument ; and the whole of the internal arrangements of the courts of justice, etc., are to be changed and rendered more suitable to their destinations. The funds for this purpose are voted principally by the municipality of Paris, and partly by the legislature. Adjoining to the buildings of the Palais de Justice on the south, and to the west of the Sainte Chapelle, is the Hotel du Tresorier, or the Cour des Comptes, a handsome building of the time of Louis XV. ; and behind this, in a small street com- municating with the quay, is the Hotel de la Prefecture de Po- lice, once the official residence of the Premier President du Parlement. It contains all the offices connected with the ju- risdiction of the prefect of police, and among them that for passports. Attached to it is the Depot de la Prefecture de Po- lice (see Prisons), That wing of this building which comes down to the Quai des Orfevres, now used as shops, etc., was formerly terminated by a turret ; and in that part which is im- mediately south of the Cour des Gomptes, is a bold archway thrown over the street, said to be the work of Jean Goujon, and bearing the monograms of Henry IL and the celebrated Diane de Poitiers. In front of the Palais de Justice, on the eastern side of the rue de la Barillerie, is the Place du Palais, where persons condemned to the pillory undergo their punishment. At the northern end of the same street is the Makche aux Fleurs et aux Arbustes, Quai Desaix. — This market, established in 1807, is planted with four rows of trees, and embellished with two fountains. Flowers, shrubs, and trees are exposed for sale here, and on the Quai de la Cite, on Wednesdays and Saturdays. On one side will be observed the Prado, a building for danc- ing and public amusements, built on the site of the old church of St. Barthelemi. (See Public Amusements.) At the western end of this quay is the Pont au Change. — Upon this spot stood the Grand Pont, which originally formed the only communication between the He de la Cite and the northern bank of the Seine. Upon this bridge, which was of wood, Louis VII., in 1141, fixed the re- sidence of money-changers, and prohibited them from dwelling CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 303 elsewhere. From this circumstance it derives its name. Af- ter being several times destroyed and rebuilt, it was burnt . down in 1621. The reconstruction of the bridge was begun in 1639 and finished in 1647 ; it was built of stone, and had houses on each side. In 1788, Louis XVI. purchased the houses upon the bridge, and they were demolished. It con- sists of seven arches, of substantial construction. Its length is 369 feet, and its breadth 96. At the eastern end of the same quay is the Pont Notre Dame. — This bridge, which is the oldest in Paris, and replaced one built in 1414, was begun in 1499, after the designs of Jean Joconde, and terminated in 1507. It con- sists of five semicircular arches, and is 362 feet in length by 50 in breadth. In 1660, it was richly ornamented with sta- tues and medallions of the kings of France, but these have been destroyed. Upon this bridge houses were constructed, which were demolished in 1786, On the western side of the bridge is the Pompe du Pont Notre Barney consisting of a square tower containing a reservoir, into which water is raised by means of machinery set in motion by the current of the river. It furnishes a supply of 70 inches. The stranger who follows this quay will come, nearly at the eastern end of the island, to where some houses stand far below the level of the road; and a painted board will there point out to him the house assigned by tradition as the residence of the chanoine Ful- bert, uncle of Heloisa. No outward part of the present edi- fice is of the date of Abelard's history, 1118, but it is said that the foundations of the house have never been changed, and that the lower part remains quite unaltered. The canons of Notre Dame lived in an adjoining house until the Revolution. The visitor will now arrive at The Cathedral Church of Notre Dame. — The precise dates of this splendid edifice, with regard to its original foun- dation, and even some of its principal reconstructions and re- pairs, have never been accurately fixed. The subject has given rise to much controversy, and nothing more than an approximation to the dates can in many cases be attempted. It appears certain that a temple existed on this spot in the time of the Romans, the foundations having been discovered in 1711, when nine large cubic stones were found, one of which indicated a votive altar raised by the Nautce Parisiaci to Jove, and another bore the effigy of the Gallic deity Hesus. They 304 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. have been explained in several dissertations, and are now in the Gallery of Antiques at the Louvre. It is said that on this temple a church dedicated to St. Stephen was erected about 365, in the time of Valentinian I., hut nothing certain is known. This was either enlarged or rebuilt by Childebert, son of Clovis, on the advice of St. Germain, about 522. No great size can be attributed to this erection, though it was praised by Fortunatus, bishop of Poitiers, and a contemporary of St. Germain in the sixth century; who, at the same time that he declines comparing it with the temple of Solomon, takes occasion to point out its spiritual superiority, but ac- knowledges that it contained only 30 columns : " Ter decern ornata columnist (1) Robert, son of Hugh Capet, under- took the reconstruction of this church, which was already called Notre Dame, from a chapel which Childebert had de- dicated to the Virgin in the building which he had raised. This was commenced, according to some, about the year 1000, or according to others about ten years later; and the founda- tions of the actual church arc said to have been part of Ro- bert's work. The building either was not proceeded with, or fell into ruins ; for the next account that we possess of its construction is, that the first stone was laid by Pope Alexan- der HI., who, at that time, had taken refuge in France, while Maurice Saliac was bishop of the diocese. Robert dn Mont, a contemporary writer, says in 1177, that Bishop Maurice had then been long occupied in building the church, and that the apsis of the choir was finished but not roofed in. The high altar was consecrated in 1182 by Henry, legate of the Holy See; and in 1185, Heraclius, Patriarch of Jerusalem, who had come to Paris to preach the third crusade, officiated in the church for the first time. The west front was finished by Bishop Maurice de Sully in 1223, during the reign of Philip Augustus ; and the southern transept with the portal in 1257, during the reign of St. Louis, according to the fol- lowing inscription, which is still well preserved on the wall of that part of the edifice : — ANNO DOMINI MCCLVII. MENSE FEBRUARIO ID. II. HOC FUIT INCEPTUM CI1RISTI GENITF.ICIS HONORE, KALLENSI LATOMO VIVENTE IOIIANNE MAGISTRO. (i) See Duchesne, Tom. i., p. 4&|« CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 305 The architect's name will be better recognised in its native form as Maistre Jehan de Chelles. The northern transept and portal were erected in 1312, by Philip le Bel, with the money arising from part of the confiscated estates of the Tem- plars ; and, besides this, there were also erected in the same century the triangular canopies surmounting the windows of the chapels that flank the aisles, as well as the richly-sculp- tured compartments that adorn the walls of the choir. These were begun by Maistre Jehan Rou.x, and finished by Maistre Jehan le Bouteiller, in 1352. The latest addition to the church is the small portal of the northern aisle of the choir, called the Porte Rouge, from its having been formerly painted in that colour; it was erected in 1404-9, by Jean Sans-Peur, Duke of Burgundy, the assassin of the Duke of Orleans, in 1407, and was finished by him as an expiation of his crime. The western doors, with their elaborate iron-work, were made about 1570-80, by Biscornette; and the internal works of the choir, by which the original beauty of this part of the edifice was entirely destroyed, were begun by order of Louis XIV., in 1699, and finished in 1714. This is nearly all that can be ascertained or conjectured with regard to the various epochs at which this building was constructed. It is a regu- lar cruciform church, having an octagonal eastern end, and double aisles surrounding both choir and nave, with a com- plete series of external chapels occupying the width of a third aisle. At the western end are two lofty and perfectly similar towers, which were intended to support spires; but there is no tower over the intersection of the body of the church and the transepts. Eastward of the southern transept are the sacristy, and the remains of the private entrance to the archbishop's palace ; all the other sides of the church are perfectly disen- gaged from any building, and can be examined with the greatest facility. In front of the cathedral is an area, called Parvis de Notre Dame, which was covered with buildings till the year 1196, when Maurice de Sully, 68th bishop of Paris, purchased several houses and pulled them down, in order to form a suitable approach to the church. Since that period it has been enlarged. In consequence of the progressive eleva- tion of the soil, the pavement of Notre Dame was so much below the level of the Parvis in 1748, that it was entered by a flight of 13 steps leading down to it. In thatyear the ground was lowered and formed upon its present gentle slope. The 306 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. dimensions of this church were engraved on a brass tablet, in old French verse, and flxcd against one of the pillars; they were stated to be as follows : — length 390 feet, width at transepts 144 ft., height of vaulting 102 ft., height of western towers 204 ft., width of western front 128 ft. ; and these are suffi- ciently near the truth to be accepted as the real admeasure- ments. The width of the nave is 39 feet, and, including the walls, 41 ft.; upon these rests the roof of wood-work, 356 feet in length, built of chestnut limber, and rising 30 feet above the vaulting. The weight of lead which it supports has been calculated at 420,240 lbs., in 1,236 sheets. The diameters of the circular windows are 36 feet. The pillars of the nave are four feet in diameter; and their foundations, as well as those of the whole church, are laid 18 feet below the level of the soil, and are not built on piles, but on a hard stratum of gravel, The general style of the architecture is very early, and very pure pointed; those parts that were built in the 14th century being closely copied from what previously existed, and capa- ble of being distinguished only by a greater degree of finish and delicacy in the sculptured ornaments. With the excep- tion of some of the work of Pierre de Montereau, at St. Ger- main desPres, and St. Martin des Champs, it is exceedingly rare to find any work of the 12th and 13lh centuries executed with greater delicacy and care in all its parts, than that of Notre Dame. Of the exterior, the western front is at once the finest and most remarkable feature. Three ample portals lead, the central and larger one, into the body of the nave, the lateral one into the aisles. They are each composed of three systems of arches, retiring one within the other, having the intermediate mouldings replaced by series of angels and scriptural figures, saints, etc. From the height of the capitals of the shafts supporting these arches, a richly-sculptured sur- face of stone fills up the head of the archway, and reposes on a mass of stone like a pilaster, which thus forms two square- headed doorways, by which an entrance is effected ; com- partments of sculpture are beneath the bases of the shafts on either side. The same arrangement existed in all three por- tals, and also in those of the transepts: but the central portal of the western front was barbarized by SoufHot, in 1670, and formed into a pointed arch in defiance of all ana- logy. The subjects of the sculptures which adorn these portals have afforded matter for much discussion, and no where is CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOT HE DAME. 307 the controversy treated in a more attractive form than in the work of u the mighty master who claims Notre Dame as his own."(l) They have been supposed to have mystic significa- tions by some, and to represent physical phenomena by others ; the more probable account of them is that to be derived from the scriptural nature of their subjects. The Portail du Milieu presents a pediment in which is represented the last judg- ment, divided into three parts, viz. : — the angels sounding the last trump, the tombs opening, and the dead rising: 2. the separation of the righteous from the wicked: 3. the Sa- viour on his throne, worshipped by the Virgin and St. John the Evangelist, and accompanied by angels bearing emblems of the crucifixion. Among the sculpture of the arch may be remarked figures of Moses and Aaron ; the Saviour treudijag beneath his feet the wicked, whom Satan is dragging to hell, represented in six compartments ; the rider on the red horse at the opening of the second seal ; the blessedness of the saints, etc. The sides of this entrance present 24 bas-reliefs, repre- senting 12 virtues, with their opposite vices. Beyond these are four other bas-reliefs, the offering of Abraham ; the de- parture of Abraham for Canaan; Job beholding the destruc- tion of his flocks and herds by a torrent ; and Job seated on a dunghill, reproved by his wife. On the doors are carved, Christ bearing his cross, and the Virgin veiled as the mother of sorrows. This portal was ornamented with statues of the 12 apostles, destroyed at the Revolution. The Portail Sic. Anne, on the right, is divided by a pillar, ornamented with a statue of St. Marcel treading beneath his feet a dragon, which had disinterred a woman to devour her. In the pediment above the door are several compartments, in w hich are sculp- tured, — Joseph putting away Mary; Joseph brought back by an angel; Joseph taking the Virgin to his home; the revela- tion of the birth of John the Baptist ; the annunciation ; the vi- sitation; the nativity; the angel appearing to the shepherds; Herod holding his council; the wise men on their way to Bethlehem ; the offering of the wise men ; and the presenta- tion in the Temple. Above these two rows of sculpture are figures of the Virgin and Child accompanied by angels, King Solomon on his knees, and St. Marcel. At the summit of the pediment is the Eternal Father in his glory, surrounded by the prophets ; beneath him the Paschal Lamb, and, still lower, (i) Victor Hiiffo, 308 NINTH AKRONDlSgEMENT. Jesus Christ, surrounded by angels and saints. Statues of St. Peter and the most notable personages among the ancestors of the Virgin, were destroyed at the Revolution. The Portail de la Sainte Vierge, on the left, presents the same general ap- pearance as the preceding. On the pillar between the two doors, is a statue of the Virgin with the Infant Jesus. The pediment is divided into three parts, namely, — figures of six prophets ; the death of the Virgin, and the coronation of the Virgin. The arch above is adorned with figures of angels and saints. On the sides of this portal were eight statues of saints, destroyed at the Revolution. Above and beyond the niches are various bas-reliefs, representing subjects taken from church history. The most interesting bas-reliefs of this entrance are the 12 signs of the zodiac, and the agricultural labours of the 12 months of the year, on the door-posts. The eighth sign, Virgo, is represented by a sculptor forming a sta- tue, supposed to be that of the Virgin, on the pillar. On the right side of this pillar are sculptured the age of man in six stages, from youth to decrepitude; on the left, the different temperatures of the year, in six bas-reliefs. The two lateral doors are ornamented with iron-w^ork, executed about the year 1580, which is much admired. The projections on each side of the doors have four niches, in which, till the Revolu- tion, were statues of Religion, Faith, St. Denis, and St. Ste- phen. Immediately above the three doors is a gallery of small shafts supporting trifoils, called Galerie des Rois, which formerly contained 28 statues of such kings of France as had been the greatest benefactors of the church, beginning with Childebert L, and ending with Philip Augustus. All these statues, executed in the 13th century, were destroyed at the Revolution. A second gallery, of short shafts and arches, is designated Galerie de la Vierge, from having been for- merly ornamented with a colossal statue of the Virgin attended by two angels. Above this gallery is the large rosace in the middle division between the towers, and in each of the latter are two pointed arches of three different systems, under a larger pointed arch, with a six-foiled circular aperture filling its upper part. Over these runs a lofty gallery of slender shafts supporting pointed arches, called the Galerie des Co- lonnes, and continued round the towers ; above which rises the last division of the towers themselves, having each side oc cu- pied with coupled windows, and richly-crocketed buttre sses CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 309 at the angles. They are capped by an open-worked battle- ment of quatrefoil: and are mounted by a staircase of 380 steps from the rue du Cloitre. The metropolitan church for- merly possessed a very fine peal of bells, of which one only remains. In the southern tower were two, called bourdons; one of these, named Emmanuel-Louise- Therese, escaped the fury of the populace at the Revolution. It was hung in 1682, and baptized in the presence of Louis XIV. and his queen Therese. It weighs 32,000 lbs., and the clapper 976 lbs. The other bell, named Marie, weighing 25,000 lbs., was broken and melted down in 1792, as were eight bells of the northern tower. In the latter tower, three bells for the clock were placed in 1812 ; these are also used to summon to divine ser- vice. A small spire, which rose above the transept, was pulled down in 1792, for the sake of the lead with which it was covered, and six bells, which it contained, were melted down. The mechanism of the clock is very curious. Another striking feature of the exterior of Notre Dame is to be found in the flying buttresses which rise from the outer walls of the chapels to support the lofty clerestory of the nave, choir, and transepts. From the circumstance of their extending over two aisles and the chapels, they are exceedingly long ; and though of very light and elegant construction, are rather pre- judicial to the general effect of the edifice. The southern side of the cathedral was never so much ornamented as the northern ; having been in part blocked up by the archiepis- copal palace. The portal of the southern transept, called Portal St. Marcel, is ornamented with scenes from the history of St. Stephen, to whom the first church on this spot was dedicated. In the space filling the head of the arch are five bas-reliefs representing St. Stephen instructing the Jews ; the saint answering the Jews' arguments; the saint insulted by the Jews ; the stoning of St. Stephen ; and his burial. Above the bas-reliefs is a figure of Christ pronouncing his benedic- tion; two angels at his sides are in the attitude of adoration, and the arches are ornamented with small figures of angels, prophets, patriarchs, bishops, etc. The porch is surmounted by an open-work canopy, above which is the rosace ; the gable is crowned by a statue of St. Stephen. On each side of the entrance are eight bas-reliefs, taken from that saint's life. A statue of St. Stephen on the pillar between the two doors, and statues of St. Denis, St, Uusl icus, St. Eleutheros, \ 310 ninth aRiioNdissement. St. Marcel, a second of St. Denis, and one of St. Germain l'Auxerrois, in niches on the sides, were destroyed in 1793. In the interior of the porch are seen St. Martin giving half his mantle to a poor man who begs alms; and Christ, accompa- nied by two angels, carrying to heaven the soul of St. Stephen. In niches are two large statues of Moses and Aaron. The grand northern porch, Portail Septentrional, presents nearly the same general appearance as that of the south. On the pillar between the two doors is a statue of the Virgin treading a dragon under her feet. In the triangular space above the door are the Nativity, the Adoration of the Wise Men, the Presentation in the Temple, the Massacre of the Innocents, the Flight into Egypt, and five scenes of the deliverance of Demoniacs. The arches are ornamented vvith small figures of angels, martyrs, saints, etc. At the entrance arc niches containing angels with trumpets. Statues of Faith, Hope, Charity, and three Wise Kings of the East, which adorned Ihe porch, and others representing the virtues and the vices, Queen Esther and Ahasuerus, David and Goliah, and Job, which were in niches at the bottom of the buttresses between this porch and the Porte Rouge, were destroyed in 1793. The Porte Rouge is a most exquisitely sculptured doorway, sur- mounted by a triangular canopy, with crockctcd pinnacles. In the triangular space under ihe vertex of the archway, are Jesus Christ and the Virgin crowned by an angel, and having on the right and left Jean Sans Pcur, Duke of Burgundy, and Margaret of Bavaria, his duchess, in a kneeling posture. In the arches are several sculptured groupes, greatly mutilated, representing acts or miracles of St. Marcel. In the wall be- tween the Porte Rouge and the eastern extremity of the struc- ture, are seven bas-reliefs, representing the death of the Virgin ; the funeral of the Virgin ; the Assumption ; Christ surrounded by angels ; Christ and the Virgin on a throne ; the Virgin at the feet of her agonized son ; and a woman, about to give herself to the Devil, delivered by the Virgin. The interior of the church is not so richly decorated as the exterior. The arches of the nave are pointed, the piers are bold circular pillars bearing large and vigorously executed capitals : those of the choir were formerly the same, but are now entirely altered. The pillars of the aisles are alternately simply circular and clustered, the surrounding shafts in the latter case being detached, and of remarkable elegance of CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAftlK. 31 proportion. The triforium of the nave presents a pointed arch thrown over three equal smaller ones supported by slender shafts, and with the triangular space perforated by a single circular aperture. The triforium in the choir is similar, being a pointed arch thrown over two others, but with no opening in the triangular space. The triforium gallery ex- tends only over one aisle, but at the transepts is adapted to two, so as to give the effect of an aisle to the transepts which in reality have none. The clerestory, which is the same throughout nave and choir, consists of a series of pointed windows of two lights each, and having a curious adaptation of their curves to the exigencies of the vaulting. The vault- ing is quadripartite throughout, and for the lateral arches domical : the stone work of it is only three or four inches thick, and the vaulting ribs descend to the imposts of the pillars of the nave and choir. Beneath the rosaces of the transepts are -light galleries of very slender shafts supporting pointed tri folia ted arches, the whole of most exquisite work- manship. The chapels are plain throughout, and are similar in details to the rest of the interior. The rosaces are very elaborate and exceedingly beautiful ; they have still preserved their stained glass of the 13th century, all that remains in the cathedral, and the effect produced by them is very splendid. A curious pointed arch will be observed under the organ loft, probably of very late date. Under each tower may still be seen a large circular aperture in the vaulting through which the ropes passed from the belfries above. The nave is in length 225 feet, and in breadth between the columns nearly 40 feet. In the wall of the northern lower is a bas-relief of the 15th century, forming part of the ceno- taph of Etienne Yver, which was removed from the chapel of St. Nicolas, in 1762. The upper part represents the Last Judgment, and the lower, a man rising from the tomb, near which is seen a body covered with worms. At the second pil- lar of the nave was a colossal statue of St. Christopher, erected by Antoine des Essars, in 1413 : it was removed in 1785. The nave and its aisles are paved with marble ; the pavement of he aisles round the choir is of stone and black marble. An in in en so vault, extending the entire length of the nave, was formed in 1666 for the interment of the canons, chaplains, choristers, etc. of the cathedral; but it has ceased to be used since the burial in churches bas been discontinued. At the 312 NINTH AURONDISSEMENT. entrance of the nave are two fine shells in marble for the holy water. The organ is remarkably fine ; it is 45 feel in height, 36 in breadth, and contains 3484 pipes. In the choir the high altar was pulled down, and most of the ornaments destroyed at the Revolution. Under the government of Na- poleon the altar was rebuilt, and such of the works of art as could be collected were restored. The first object that strikes the eye on entering it is the carved work of the stalls, in Dutch oak. The wainscoting above them is deco- rated with bas-reliefs representing the principal events in the life of the Virgin, and other scriptural facts, executed after the designs of Rene Charpentier, a pupil of Girardon. The stalls are terminated by two archiepiscopal thrones of great beauty, surmounted by canopies, enriched with angels holding em- blems of religion. The whole is surmounted by a cornice crowned with eight pictures, in the following order, begin- ning on the right, 1, the adoration of the wise men of the east, by Dc la Fosse; 2, the birth of the Virgin, by Philippe de Champagne; 3, the visitation of the Virgin, the master- piece of Jouvenet, who painted it with his left hand, after his right had become paralytic; 4, the annunciation, by Halle ; 5, the assumption, by Coypel ; 6, the presentation of the Virgin in the Temple, by Philippe de Champagne; 7, the flight into Egypt, by Louis Boullogne ; 8, the presentation of Christ in the Temple, by the same. The pavement is of costly marble, and in the centre is an eagle of brass gilt, which serves as a reading-desk. The sanctuary and high altar are each ap- proached by flights of steps formed of Languedoc marble : over the altar is a marble groupe by Coustou, of very fine design and execution, representing the Descent from the Cross. On one side of this was formerly a statue of Louis XHI. by Coustou, and, on the other, one of Louis XIV. by Coysevox : but they were both destroyed in 1831, together with many other ornaments of the church. Beneath the choir is a vault, formed in 1711, in which are interred the arch- bishops of Paris. Four, who had been deposited there, were disinterred at the Revolution for the sake of their lead coffins. Upon the exterior of the wall that encloses the choir arc 23 very curious and highly valuable sculptured compartments 7 executed in 1352. They represent mysteries in the life of Christ in the following order, beginning on the left : 1, the visitation; 2, the calling of the shepherds to the manger; 3, CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 313 the nativity ; 4, the adoration of the wise men of the east ; 5, the massacre of the innocents; 6, the flight into Egypt; 7, the presentation in the Temple; 8, Christ in the midst of the doctors ; 9, the baptism of Christ ; 10, the marriage of Cana, in Oialilee; 11, the entry of Christ into Jerusalem; 12, Christ washing the feet of his disciples ; 13, Christ on the Mount of Olives. The next four, namely, the crucifixion, the entomb- ment, the resurrection and the ascension of Christ, were destroyed when alterations were made in the arches of the choir next the high altar. 14, Christ and Mary Magdalen ; 15, the holy women; 16, Christ appearing to the apostles ; 17, Christ and the two disciples on their way to Emma us ; 18, Christ at table with the disciples, at Emmaus ; 19, Christ again appearing to the apostles; 20, the incredulity of St. Thomas; 21, the miraculous draught of fishes; 22, the mission of the apostles; 23, the last supper. Above these reliefs are seven fine pictures, viz., beginning on the righti- st, Stephen conducted to martyrdom; St. Peter healing the lame man at the gate of the Temple ; St. Paul and his com- panions scourged ; St. John dc Capistran, a Franciscan monk, at the head of a troop of Crusaders, marching against the Turks; the decollation of John the Baptist; St. Andrew con- ducted to martyrdom, and Christ healing the woman of a bloody flux. The lateral chapels of Notre Dame were for- merly remarkable for their splendour, the walls being co- vered with marble, or finely-carved wainscoting, enriched with gilding; and they contained sumptuous tombs erected to the memory of relatives by wealthy families. These were stripped of their riches at the Revolution: many of them, however, have been repaired, and contain works of art worthy of the visitor's attention. The following is a descrip- tion of the most remarkable of them, beginning on the right of the principal entrance: — 1, chapel of Ste. Anne — the as- sumption, by Philippe de Champagne, and some curious bas- reliefs;— 2, chapel of St. Bartholomew and St. Vincent — baptismal font, in white veined marble, by Noel Coypel; — 3, chapel of St. James and St. Philip, — Christ raising the daughter of Jairus, by Guy de Vcrnansal; — 4, chapel of Ste. Genevieve, — the martyrdom of St. Andrew at Patras, by Lc- brun; and statues of Ste. Genevieve and St. Louis; — 5, chapel of St. Thomas of Canterbury, — Christ driving the dealers from the Temple, by Claude Guy Halle ; and the 27 314 NINTH ARR0ND1SSEIUENT. calling of St. Peter and St. Andrew, by Michael Corneille; — 12, chapel of St. Geraud, baron d'Aurillac, — St. Charles Borromeo administering the sacrament to the sufferers by the plague at Milan, by Charles Van Loo; and the martyrdom of Ste. Catherine, by Vien;— 13, chapel of St. Remy, which formerly possessed fine monuments of the Ursins family, is now in ruins; — 14, chapel of St. Peter and St. Stephen, —this chapel contains a fine mausoleum erected to the memory of Henry Claude, Count d'Harcourt, who died in 1769. It was executed after the designs of Pigalle; — 15, chapel of St. James, St. Crispin, and St. Crispinian, ornamented with two pictures ; the descent of Christ into hell, by Delorme ; and the other, the martyrdom of St. Hya- cinth, by Heim. — 16, chapel of St. Louis, St. Rigobert, and St. Nicaise, — in which were formerly superb monuments to the memory of the celebrated Albert de Gondy, Duke de Retz, and the Cardinal de Gondy, bishop of Paris; the arms of the de Gondy family still remain in the windows. The altar is of marble, and above it is a beautiful statue of the Virgin, executed by Antonio Raggi, after a model by Bernini. This fine production was formerly in the church of the Carmes, rue de Vaugirard, and is a fine specimen of sculpture. In this chapel are two pictures, representing the raising of the widow's son, by Guillemot, and the burial of the Virgin, by Abel de Pujol. — 17, Chapelle de la Decollation de St. Jean Baptistc, de St. Eutrope, et de Ste. Foi. — This chapel, in which the deVinlimille family were formerly interred, contains a splendid monument by Deseine, in memory of Cardinal du Belloy, archbishop of Paris, who died in 1806, in the 99th year of his age. It represents the prelate seated in a chair, on a sarcophagus, bestowing alms upon an old woman sup- ported by a girl ; his left hand is placed on the Bible. The draperies are highly finished, the attitudes easy and noble, and the cardinal's head is remarkable for expression and re- semblance. In this chapel also is a picture of the martyrdom of St. Hippolile, by Heim ;— 18, the chapel of St. Martin, St. Anne, and St. Michael. — The only remains of the splendid decorations of this chapel, is the marble with which the walls were covered. In the windows are the arms of the Cardinal dc Noailles, for whose family it was a place of interment. — 24, chapel of St. Nicholas, first of the nave — an ex voto pic- ture, said to be by Guldo, representing Christ crucified; and CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME* 315 a Franciscan monk at the foot of the cross ; — 26, chapel of St. Julien le Pauvre and Ste. Marie 1'Egyptienne. —This chapel is embellished with wainscoting, executed in the be- ginning of the 16th century, brought from the chapter-room of Notre Dame. It is adorned with figures of the apostles and saints, separated from each other by small pilasters, orna- mented with arabesques. The pictures are, the assumption ; a good crucifixion; and the conversion of St. Paul, by Restout. In three gilt busts are relics of St. Ursula and her companions, martyrs. Independently of the chapels above-mentioned, is one formed in the southern tower, which is used as a room for catechumens. The altar-piece is a fine picture of the annunciation, by Philippe de Champagne. The stranger should not omit to visit the sacristy and treasury of Notre Dame. The sacristy was built in 1756, after the designs of Soufflot, at the expense of Louis XV. It is entered on the right of the choir by a richly-sculptured door, the posts of which are covered with marble. Here were preserved a great many of the most precious relics that had escaped the fury of the Revolution, besides many objects of art of the middle ages, that were unique and possessed the highest historical value. At the time of the sacking of St. Germain 1'Auxerrois, and the archbishop's palace, in 1831, the mob broke in here also, and, headed by the officers of the National Guards, broke and destroyed every thing that came within their reach. The damage thus occasioned was irreparable ; the coronation robes of Napoleon, and the splendid dresses that he gave to the bi- shops and the chapter on that occasion, were cut up for the sake of the gold embroidery they contained. These, however, were fortunately rescued, and have since been repaired; but nothing else remains. (1) The history of the events of which this church has been witness would be far too long for any description in this place: but there are several excellent works upon Notre Dame, which may be easily consulted, and which will repay the attention of the curious examiner. (2) (1) A celebrated artist who was making a most elaborate picture of the interior of Notre Dame, at that period, had left his work on the easel in the vestry : it was cut into a thousand morsels. (2) The principal are, Gilbert, Histoire de JVotre Dame de Pa- ris, 1 vol. \to. ; Ftlibien et Lobineau, Histoire- de Paris, 2 vols. foU; History of Paris, 3 vols. $vo. Galignani and Co.; and for the imaginative part ot the subject, Victor Hugo's Notre Dame, 3 vols* Svo., and Michelet, Histoire de France, vol, 2. 316 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. On the northern side of the cathedral was once the cloister and college of the canons; which were destroyed at the Revolution. On the southern side of Notre Dame stood the Archbishop's Palace, erected here originally by Maurice de Sully, in 1161, but entirely rebuilt by Cardinal de Noailles, in 1697. The chapel of the original palace remained till 1831 ; at that time the palace itself was a handsome residence, worthy of the See, and, with its gardens, occupied all the extremity of the island round to the middle of the eastern end of the cathedral. The apartments were splendid, and their furni- ture was valuable, and in some instances curious. The library was rich in MSS. of the middle ages, and contained many literary rarities. But on the 13th February, 1.831, the populace, having sacked the church of St. Germain 1'Aux- errois, determined to do the same by the archbishop's palace; and on the night of that date, and during the following day, every thing contained in the palace was taken from it by the mob, and either broken or burnt, or thrown into the river. Shortly after, the palace and gardens were entirely sacked with the most wanton fury by the mob, and were left in such a state -of ruin that they were subsequently removed by order of government; and with the exception of a ruin still adjoining the southern transept of the cathedral, not a vestige of either palace or garden now remains. The violence and criminality of such revolutionary acts cannot but be deplored ; but the visitor of taste, not personally interested in the matter, and all who admire the cathedral church, cannot but rejoice at this opportune clearance of what formerly blocked up the whole southern side of that edifice. It is greatly to be hoped that Notre Dame will be allowed to stand, as at present, in a wide area, free from the obtrusion and contact of all minor buildings. At the eastern end of the island leading to the southern bank of the river, is the Pont de l'Archeveche. — This well-built stone bridge was opened in 1 828. It consists of three arches, varying from 18 to 20 yards in breadth, and was built by a company in less than six months. Immediately to the west of this bridge is the Pont au Double, which was constructed by the adminis- trators of the Hotel Dieu, in 1634. A double was paid as a toll upon it till 1789, from which circumstance the bridge de. Hotel diet;. 317 rived its name. Part of it was formerly occupied by the buildings of the Hotel Dieu, but it is now thrown open to the public. Here, at the south-west angle of the cathedral, in the Par- vis Notre Dame, stands the immense hospital called the Hotel Dieu. — This is the-most ancient hospital in Paris. Its foundation is attributed to St. Landri, bishop of Paris, in the 17th century. Philip Augustus is the first king known to have been a benefactor to this establishment, and by him it was first styled Maison cle Dieu. St. Louis enlarged the build- ings of this hospital, exempted it from taxes and duties, and assigned it an annual revenue. In 1602, a further enlarge- ment having become necessary, Henry IV. caused two wards to be added. Louis XIIL, Louis XIV., Louis XV., and Louis XVI., were considerable benefactors to this establishment, and several private individuals have contributed to its enlarge- ment and improvement by donations and legacies. The Hotel Dieu consists of several piles of building irregularly disposed, and is divided into wards, for men and for women, which are well ventilated. The buildings are separated by a branch of the Seine, over which there is a bridge, Pont St. Charles, which forms an agreeable promenade for the patients, the central part along its whole length having been covered in and glazed. Gardens are also attached for the convalescents of both sexes, who are separated from each other. The labo- ratory, pharmacy, lingerie, etc., are all on a very large scale, and are well worthy of examination. The amphitheatre for demonstrations to students is peculiarly bad and dirty. Few parts of the buildings bear any signs by which their dates can be ascertained ; but they are remarkable for solidity rather than for any architectural excellence. The chapel, however, is of the time of Philip Augustus, if not earlier, and is not shown to visitors, unless asked for. The wards have lately received very considerable additions. The entrance was erected in 1804, after the designs of Clavareau. It is a pro- jecting Doric vestibule. At the Revolution, this establishment was called Hospice d'Humanite, but has since resumed its former title of Hotel Dieu. The number of beds is upwards of 1,000. The religieuses of the order of St. Augustin attend upon the patients. In this house are received the wounded and sick, with the exception of children, incurable and insane persons, lying-in-women, and persons having cutaneous or 318 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. venereal diseases. The public arc admitted to visit the pa- tients or inspect the establishment on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays, from one o'clock till three. To enter on other days, application must be made at the porter's lodge, and is readily granted. The stranger, who is anxious to become ac- quainted with the internal arrangements and the system of administration used in the hospitals of Paris, will do well to visit the Hotel Dieu, since it may be taken as a type of nearly all the others, though on a more extensive scale. Opposite the hospital, No. 2, Place du Parvis, is the Bureau Central d'Admission dans les Hopitaux et Hospices. — This office is established in buildings erected for a Foundling Hospital. On the sides of the entrance are two fountains, consisting of antique stone vases, upon each of which is a bas-relief, representing females attending a dying man, in allusion to the Hotel Dieu. This office will be re- moved to the Hotel de Ville as soon as the projected improve- ments in that building shall have taken place. A small niche in this building contains an urn which serves as a fountain. In the narrow street of St. Pierre aux Rceufs, leading out of the Place du Parvis Notre Dame, is the church of the same name, of the early pointed style of architecture, now used as a cooper's warehouse ; and in the Passage St. Marine, leading out of the same street, is the church of that Saint, also con- verted into a warehouse. After quitting the Place du Parvis, the visitor will come to the Petit Pont. — The existence of a bridge at this spot, which was formerly the only communication between the He de la Cite and the southern bank of the Seine, goes back to a period before the conquest by the Romans. It was carried away, by inundations or ice, thirteen times between the 13th and 17lh centuries, and rebuilt of wood with houses upon the sides in 1659. In 1718, it was burned down, and was soon after re- built in stone, as it now appears. The Petit Pont consists of three irregular arches, and is 104 feet in length by 52 in breadth. Immediately beyond this, on the Quai du Marche Neuf, is the Morgue, a small and plain stone edifice, where dead bodies found in the town or river are placed. — (See Adminis- tration of police.) West of this is the Pont St, Mjchbl, called, by that name ST. LOUIS. 319 as early as the year 1424, from a small church that stood near it. Having fallen down in 1016, it was rebuilt soon af- ter in stone, with houses on the sides, which remained on it till 1804, when they were taken down on the occasion of the coronation of Napoleon. Some traces of a bas-relief of Louis XIIL on horseback may still be discerned on the side next the Pont Neuf. The bridge is formed of four semicircular arches, and is 170 feet long' by 83 broad. The visitor is now recommended to proceed to the He St. Louis, originally called He aux Vaches, a name given to distinguish it from the He Notre Dame, of which it was a dependence. Henry IV. conceived the project of erecting houses upon this spot; but the execution of it was reserved for Louis XIIL, and all the houses on it were constructed before the middle of the 17th century. The He de la Cite was, however, till lately, connected With the lie St. Louis only by a bridge of two wooden arches, resting on piers of masonry, which was erected originally in 1014, but was reconstructed in 1819, and called the Pont de la Cite. From the quay to the north of it the Pont Louis Philippe, opened on the fete-day of the king, May 1st, 1834, extends first from one isle to the other, and, then, from the He St. Louis to the Quai de la Greve. It is a fine suspension bridge, constructed in iron wire, and has two bold arch- ways of stone, over which the chains of suspension pass. The nor- thern quay of the He St. Louis will lead the visitor to the Pont Maiue, which joins the Quai des Ormes to the lie St. Louis. It was built by Marie, superintendent-general of of the bridges in France, in virtue of a contract made with him in 1014, for the erection of houses upon the He St. Louis. Two arches of it were carried away by a flood, in 1058, with 22 out of 50 houses which stood on it. The remainder were removed a short time before the Revolution. The Pont Marie is 78 feet in breadth, and its length between the abut- ments is 300 feet. On passing by the rue des Deux Ponls, into the rue St. Louis, the visitor will remark No. 45, the Hotel Chanisol, the architecture and ornaments of which are worthy of no- tice. He will then come to St. Louis, rue St. Louis dans Tile, first district church of 9th arrondissement. This church was erected in 1004 upon the site of a small chapel, built in 1000, and dedicated to St. Louis 320 NINTH ARRONDISSEMTeNT. and St. Cecilia: its architect was Levau, but it was subse- quently altered byLeduc andDoucet. The exterior presents nothing remarkable except the entrance, decorated with Doric columns, and the obeliscal spire, in open stone- work of fan- tastic appearance. The interior is disposed in the form of a cross, the transepts being only lateral chapels, with an aisle running round the nave and choir. The piers of the arches are fronted with Corinthian pilasters, and, abov6 the entablature which they support, a range of clerestory win- dows affords the church an abundant supply of light. The sculptures of the interior were all executed by J. B. Cham- pagne, nephew of the celebrated painter of the same name. In the chapel of the communion in the southern aisle of the nave is a very excellent production of Johannot, St. Louis receiving the Sacrament in his last moments; and, as an alter-piece, Christ at Emmaus, by Coypel. In the chapel of St. Vincent de Paule is a pleasing picture of the Saint ex- horting some Soeurs de Charite, by Halle, who has also exe- cuted a similar painting of St. Francis de Sales with the Ladies of the Assumption, in an opposite chapel. A curious picture of the Assumption of the Virgin is in her chapel, in the northern aisle, and near it is a large, but not good, painting of St. Louis assisting at the interment of the dead during one of his crusades. Opposite the pulpit is a well-sculptured Crucifixion; and in the chapel of St. Louis de Gonzales, in the northern aisle of the nave, the picture of that saint em- bracing the ecclesiastical state should be observed. This church was formerly celebrated as being the one to which the University of Paris used to come in solemn procession on days of great solemnity. Quinault the poet was buried here in 1688, In the rue Poultier, No. 14, is a good specimen of the Pari- sian mansion of the days of Louis XIII. ; and at No. 2, in the rue St. Louis, is the Hotel Lambert, built by Levau, and of nearly the same date as the church just mentioned. The court is small, but contains a very rare and magnificent staircase with a scroll- work balustrade, between two bold Ionic columns, leading under an open portico to the top of the hotel, and to the apartments on each side. The suite of principal rooms is still perfect, with all the gilding, painted panels, and ceilings, as they were originally executed ; and they produce a splendid PONT DE LA TOURNELLE. 321 effect even in their present state of degradation. The ceilings are all by Lesueur and Lebrun, both in these rooms and in the long gallery, where they are painted with a degree of elaborate finish that is rarely to be met with. The hotel is rich in two historical souvenirs : Yoltaire dwelt in it when he formed the plan of the Henriade, and in the gallery above-mentioned, Napoleon, in 1815, held a long conversa- tion with his minister, M. de Montalivet, when he found that all was lost. Since that minister's death the hotel has been rented by a company who manufacture and supply by con- tract all the bedding of the garrison of Paris : and the gallery, one of the finest rooms in Ihe capital, is filled to the ceiling with the mattresses, etc., of the establishment. It is much to be regretted that no one should have possessed sufficient money and good taste to purchase and to restore this almost unique specimen of the residence of a rich President du Parlement of the 17th and 18th centuries. Behind the He St. Louis lies the Isle Louviers, tenanted by a number of wood-merchants ; and at the foot of the Quai de Bretonvilliers, is the large Ecole de Natation de Lagny, the best establishment of the kind in Paris. The water here is quite pure and beautifully green in the summer, and the bather w ill do well to come thus far if he would enjoy the luxury of a bath unmixed with the impurities which the river necessarily receives in its passage through the town. At this spot a bridge of one arch in iron, of 300 feet span, is to be constructed between the two islands. The Hotel de Bretonvilliers stands at the corner of the quay and street of the same name, built by Ducerceau for the President Kagois de Bretonvilliers; and still retaining some relics of its former magnificence. From this quay the Pont de la Tournelle, so called from the old tower erected by Philip Augustus, that formerly stood on the opposite bank of the river, reaches to the Quai St. Bernard. It was built by Marie in 1(320, was twice carried away, and was rebuilt, about the year 165G, at the expense of the city. It is bordered with causeways, consists of six semicircular arches, and is 380 feet in length, by 42 in bread tli, Grass grows on the quays of the He St. Louis, one of the most quiet and original spots in the capital. 322 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. This being one of the most extensive arrondissements of the capital, and so full of interesting objects, that the visitor will require more than one day to inspect it thoroughly, a division has been adopted here which he will find convenient. All that part west of the rue du Bac is described by itself first, and then that which, including the remainder of the arron- dissement, lies eastward of the same line. The visitor on entering this arrondissement, after traversing the Place du Carrousel, or the Gardens of the Tuileries, will arrive at, and pass over, The Pont Royal, built in 1684, by order of Louis XIV. Its construction was very difficult, in consequence of the ra- pidity of the river ; but the obstacles were surmounted by an Italian Dominican friar named Frere Romain, who laid the foundations and erected the arches. The designs were by G. and J. H. Mansart. It consists of five semicircular arches, and is 432 feet in length by 52 in breadth. This part of the river was formerly crossed by a ferry (bac), from which the rue du Bac derives its name. Upon one of the piers is a scale divided into metres and decimetres, to show the height of the river. This bridge, which is sure to be frequently crossed by the stranger, commands a fine view of Paris, both up and down the course of the Seine. The road rises rather too ab- ruptly to the middle of the bridge ; but it is expected to be shortly lowered and otherwise improved. The first object that will strike the stranger, after leaving this bridge, will be the Hotel Praslin, a magnificent mansion, situated partly on the quay where its terrace will be perceived, but having its entrance and front in the rue de Lille, No. 54. This is one of the largest and most sumptuous of the residences of the old nobility. Next to it is a large barrack for cavalry, formerly the Hotel du Garde du Corps. It was designed under the reign of Napoleon, by order of Clarke, Duke de Feltre, minister of war, in the most miserable style of architecture, and has all the appearance of a cotton-factory. Beyond it is the Palais i>u Quai d'Orsay. — It is thus that, in the absence of any fixed appellation, one of the most magnificent edifices of the capital must be styled. It was begun during the inter- nal administration of M. de Champagny, Duke de Cadore, in tjie time of Napoleon, and was intended for the Minister of IP AIL A S3 ®W ^MIl (gWJ^T ID'MSiiTo IPA1LA©1& ©IF p irifiIlE-ID)lSlFlF l lE < lIIlEo^aii'W 5fib®su ^hhs IP AIL AG 1^ @1F ITISIIS 1ME1PIGHT1II§S 0 ( ^tiibw fi»s®SB , bss» sums .) hotel de la legion d' honour. 323 Foreign Affairs. It was, not, however, continued till 1830, when Charles X. intended it to be used as a palace for the exhibition of the productions of French industry • and since that period the work has proceeded under the direction of M. Lacornay, until it is now nearly finished. This edifice consists of a vast court, surrounded by four magnificent piles of building, and two smaller courts, forming, with their build- ings, wings to the principal mass of the edifice. Towards the river the grand front presents a long line of windows formed by arches under a Tuscan colonnade; above which is a simi- lar series of the Ionic order; and over this an attic of the Italian style of the Tuileries. The court is surrounded by a double scries of Italian arcades, and galleries above, the ceil- ings of which are painted to represent panelling in different kinds of wood richly gilt. Four splendid staircases are placed one at each corner of the court, and are richly orna- mented with sculptured ceilings, panelled walls, etc. To- wards the court, below the galleries, the frieze is inlaid with various coloured marbles. The principal entrance is in the rue de Lille, and the side courts have also gateways leading to the adjacent streets. The interior of this beautiful and mag- nificent edifice is not so judiciously or tastefully arranged as the exterior. The only part where any grandeur of design is manifested is on the ground floor next the river, where a long gallery decorated with fine columns of white marble occupies nearly the whole of the central division. Above this, on the first floor, there was every opportunity to have made a similar gallery, or several apartments of vast size; for which alone the magnificent series of windows was intended: instead of this, however, nothing but a succession of moderately-sized dwelling-rooms occurs, while the remainder of the building is entirely made up of ordinary rooms, entresols, and cabinets. Only a small part of this building, notwithstanding the im- mense sums spent on it, is as yet habitable : and the general destination of the edifice is still uncertain. For permission to view this palace, application must be made by letter to M. le Direcleur des Bdtiments et Monuments Publics, au Ministers de VInterieur, 122, rue de Grenelle. On passing into the Rue de Lille, the visitor will find to the west the Hotel de la Legion d'Honneur. — This edifice was built in 1786, after the designs of Rousseau, for the Prince deSalm, 324 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. whose name it bore. The entrance presents a triumphal arch decorated with Ionic columns and two figures of Fame. On the sides of the arch are two galleries, leading to pavilions forming the wings, the attics of which are adorned with bas- reliefs, by Roland. A peristyle ornamented with Ionic co- lumns and busls extends along the sides of the court to the principal front, which is decorated with Corinthian columns, of large proportions, forming a portico, under which is the entrance to the vestibule. Upon the front is the inscription — honneur et patrie. In the centre of the front towards the Quai d'Orsay is a circular projecting mass, decorated with columns, which support a balustrade crowned by six statues The apartments of the hotel are decorated with elegance and simplicity, and the principal saloon, which looks to the river, is in the form of a rotunda, the diameter of which is 40 feet. The Prince de Salm having been beheaded in 1793, his hotel was drawn for by lottery, end a journeyman hair-dresser ob- tained the winning number. In 1803 the hotel was devoted to its present purpose. Strangers are admitted on applying at the porter's lodge. At the western end of the same street, rue de Lille, is the Hotel d'Havary, another of those magnificent hotels that may safely rivalize with many a palace. The visitor will emerge from this street upon the quay, in front of the Chamber of t Deputies, and the Pont de la Concorde. — Till the erection of this bridge, the Faubourg St. Germain and the Faubourg St. Honore had no communication between them except by the Pont Royal, and a ferry opposite the Hotel des Invalides. In 1786, the sum of 1,200,000 livres was appropriated to tts construction, which was begun in 1787 and finished in 1700. It consists of five elliptical arches, which diminish gradually in breadth, and . while the total length of the bridge between the abutments is 461 feet, its breadth is 61. Tbe piers are ornamented with three-quarter doric columns and a cornice, above which, the parapet is formed by a balustrade, divided by pedestals. The architect of this handsome bridge was Peronnef, already cele- brated for the construction of the bridge of Neuilly ; and part of the stone employed was obtained from the demolition of the Bastille. It has a good effect both from its beauty and rich- ness, and the perfection and boldness of its execution. This bridge was originally called the Pont Louis XV L, PALAIS BOURBON. 325 from the place opposite to which it was built, but in 1792 it was named the Pont de la Revolution, tor which appellation that of the Pont de la Concorde was substituted in 1300. At the Restoration it resumed its original name, which it changed for its present one in 1830. The stranger may now proceed to the Palais Bourbon and Chamber of Deputies. — It was erected in 1722, by Louise-Francoisc, Duchess-dowager of Bourbon. It was begun after the designs of Girardini, an Italian architect, and continued by Mansard. Upon its coming into the possession of the Prince de Conde, it was considerably enlarged, and though not completely terminated in 1789, had already cost nearly a million sterling. At the Revolution, the Palais Bourbon was one of the first mansions plundered, and remained unoccupied till 1795, when it was chosen for the sittings of the Council of Five Hundred. The pavilion oppo- site the bridge was selected for the sittings ot the council, and the rest appropriated as a residence for the president. It was afterwards occupied by the Corps Legislatif. Upon the Resto- ration, in 1814, the Prince de Conde took possession of the palace, and entered into an arrangement, by which that por- tion which had been occupied by the legislative body, and which had been in great part rebuilt, was appropriated to the use of the Deputies, and in 1829 a law was passed, by which it was purchased at a sum previously agreed on between the government and the prince. On the occasion of the melan- choly death of the Duke tie Bourbon, in j.830, ibis palace descended as part of the inheritance to the Duke d'Aumale. That part which was used by the Duke do Bourbon, as a resi- dence, is still kept up as such by the administrators of the estates, and is leased to the Chamber of Deputies as an ofdcial residence for their president ; but a treaty has been nego- tiating with the government, and will, it is supposed, be ulti- mately carried In effect, hy which the whole of the private interest in this estate will be ceded to the country for the use of the Deputies. That part of the palace used by the duke remains the same as it was, and is composed of a pavilion only one storey high, which was formerly caiied Hotel Lassay, and was annexed to the original building after it became the property of the Coiids family. Its appearance indicates a spacious country-seat, rather than the palace of a prince. Its entrance is by the rue de l'Uniyersite, from whence it is ap- 28 326 TENTH ARRONDlSSElVfENT. proached by a long avenue, terminating in an ample coilrL Allached to this is a large pile of various buildings, which include ten courts, and afford ample accommodation for a numerous household. The offices are upon an extensive scale, and there is stabling for 250 horses. Formerly, nothing could exceed the splendour of the mirrors, gilding, paintings in fresco, and costly furniture which decorated these apart- ments ; at present they are only remarkable for the beauty of their proportions, and convenience. The principal pictures are, one representing the battle of Rocroy, by Casa Nova ; another, the battle of Nordlingen, by Lepau ; and a portrait of the Prince de Conde, at the age of tw only-two, when he gained the battle of Rocroy. The billiard-room contains a fine piece of Gobelins tapestry, representing Achilles and Iphigenia. The Salle des Yalels de Chambres is ornamented with bucks' horns, and other emblems of the chase. The gar- den is bounded by a terrace fifteen hundred feet in length. At the extremity of the terrace, on the side of the Hotel des Invalides, are some small apartments, with a garden laid out in the English style. The Palais Bourbon may be seen at any time of the day, a servant being always on the spot to attend visitors. That part of the palace which forms the southern side of the enclosure is still preserved as it was before the Revolution. The principal entrance, towards the Place Bour- bon, is adorned with a triumphal arch of the Corinthian order, connected with two pavilions by galleries formed of columns. The ornaments and the family arms, which marked it as the residence of the descendants of the great Conde, were destroyed at the Revolution. Opposite to it in the court is a small Corinthian portico, serving as a state entrance to the Chamber of Deputies, which occupies that part of the structure facing the Pont Louis XVI. The large portico which stands in front of the northern facade was built by Poyei, in 1804, and cost l,759,000fr. It is nearly 100 feet broad, and is composed of 12 Corinthian columns, which are ap- proached by a flight of 29 steps. Above is a pediment filled with an allegorical bas-relief, in plaisler, placed there in the room of one in stone destroyed in 1815. At the foot of the steps, upon pedestals, eighteen feet in elevation, are colossal statues of Justice and Prudence; and in the foreground are figures of Sully, Colbert, l'Hopital, and d'Aguesseau. On the wall of the edifice behind the columns are the blank PALAIS BOURBON. 327 spaces where bas-reliefs formerly existed, and windows de- scending to the ground, but not answering any purpose as apertures. This portico, which twenty or thirty years ago was universally considered as a chef-d'oeuvre, is now looked on as one of the second-rate buildings of the capital. It leads to nothing, and is out of all proportion or analogy with the buildings behind. The latter have been lately erected, and contain the Chamber of Deputies, with the various apart- ments, library, etc., dependent upon it. The visitor enters by a side door in the wing west of the portico, into a hall of waiting, in which is an animated statue of Mirabeau. From this he passes into the lobby of the Chamber, and a hall where the Deputies receive the printed reports of committees, motions of the chamber, etc. He then passes into the Cham- ber itself, which is a semicircular room, ornamented with 20 columns of white marble of the Ionic order, having capi- tals of bronze gilt. The president's chair and the tribune form the centre of the axis of the semi-circle, from which rise the seats of the Deputies in the shape of an amphitheatre, to the height of the basement which supports the columns. The whole is fitted up in green cloth and gold. Over the presi- dent's chair, upon the wall which faces the assembly, are places for paintings. In the intercolumniations are placed statues of Order and Liberty, by Pradier, and above the enta* blature are other allegorical statues by Allier, Foyatier, Du- mont, and Despres, and in front of the tribune is a marble bas-relief. There are two spacious galleries for the accommo* dation of the public, capable of containing 500 persons ; the upper gallery can be taken to pieces and removed at pleasure. The roof is coved and ornamented with arabesques ; in the centre is a window by which light is admitted. The seats are so contrived that each deputy has a place for writing on, im- mediately in front of him : the lower bench of all is reserved half for the ministers, the other half for officers ot the Cham- ber. Immediately under the tribune are two small desks for the reporters of the Moniteur, who relieve each other in taking notes of the debate, and for whom a table and other accommo- dations are provided in the Chamber, so that their reports may be as correct as possible. The reporters of the other journals are accommodated, but not so well, in one of the galleries. A deputy, when addressing the Chamber at any length, does not speak from his place, but ascends the tribune, 328 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. and harangues his colleagues, generally from a written speech, j The place of each deputy is marked at the beginning of the session, and he retains it till the end. South of the Chamber is the vestibule of entry, adorned with Corinthian columns, and a marble statue of King Louis Philippe ; and to the west of this is an elegant reception-room adorned with a richly- painted series of compartments. The Salle du Trone is a hand- some apartment; and in the Salle de la Victoire, or des Con- ferences, are a fine statue of Henry IV., some flags taken from the Austrians in the wars of the empire, together with two pictures of considerable merit, the Siege of Calais, by Schef- fer ; and the Resistance of President Mole to the Ligueurs, by Vincent. Attached to this suite of apartments is the Library of the Deputies, consisting of 44 ,000 volumes. This collection which, besides comprising all the documents relative to the legislature of France, contains a valuable series of historical works, some of great rarity, is celebrated for possessing the original MSS. of the Nouvelle Heloise, and the Confessions, of Rousseau. It has been lately enriched by the complete series of Parliamentary Reports, Papers, etc., published by order of the House of Commons, and is the only library in France where they are to be found. A periodical interchange of papers takes place between these branches of the legislatures of France and England. The room in which the Library is placed is a very handsome long gallery, with a richly-vaulted ceiling, and is fitted up in a style of great elegance and con- venience. To obtain admission to consult the books, a request must be addressed to one of the Questors of the Chamber of Deputies. To visit the Chamber and its various appendages, no formality is requisite beyond demanding permission at the door ; but to hear the debates, a letter to this effect should be addressed to M. le Questeur de la Chambre des Deputes, who will then return a ticket of admission. Those persons who have not the time to do so will find it the readiest way to go to the door of the Chamber, where they will find a number of men forming a queue as at the theatres. These persons, who make a trade of thus waiting from a very early hour in the /norning for admission into the tribune open to the public, will give up their places for one or two francs, according to the expected importance of the debate ; and admission may almost always thus be obtained. South of the Palais Bourbon is the Place of the same name ; JpfflBRT UD3IBS HFnyAlLIIl^lI S o HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 329 it is surrounded by regularly-built houses, but is not remark- able for any thing but the colonnade of the palace, and tho statue of Mirabeau in the middle, which has replaced one of Louis XVIII. This figure is full of spirit, and has the merit of being an admirable portrait of the great orator of the Revo- lution. From this place the stranger should proceed westward, by the rue de l'Universite, to the Esplanade and Hotel des Invalides. — Previous to the reign of Henry IV., old and disabled soldiers had no other resources in France than the charity of the monastic establishments of royal foun- dation to depend on for their support ; but in 1596, that king formed an asylum for military invalids in an old convent in the Faubourg St. Marcel. This institution was removed to the chateau of Bicetre, by Louis XIII., but for want of funds did not receive any ulterior development. In 1670, during the administration of Louvois, Louis XIV., by whose wars the number of invalids was greatly augmented, determined to erect a building to receive them, and to found a magnificent establishment. The foundations were laid in 1670, and the main building, as well as the first church, were erected by LiberalBruant, and finished about 1706. The second church, or dome, built by Mansard, and finished in 1706, was destined for the celebration of festivals and military rejoicings. Seve- ral additions were made at various times to the buildings of the hotel ; and the whole edifice at the present day covers 16 acres of ground, and contains 15 courts. Under the reigns of Louis XV. and Louis XVI., the number of invalids was small, but the institution maintained its dignity and privileges. At the Revolution it took the name of Temple de V ffumanite ; and during the disasters of that period was always respected. Under Napoleon it was called Temple de Mars, and the num- ber of its inmates was considerably augmented. At the re- storation the hotel resumed its original title. This magnifi- cent institution is under the direction of the Minister of War. The governor is a marshal of France : under him there are a lieutenant-general, commandant of the hotel; and a colonel called colonel-major. With these two latter functionaries are deposited all the powers of police for the hotel, and the details of internal arrangement. The colonel-major has se- ven adjutants-major under his command: and the other offi- cers are ? the intendant, sub-jnlendant, and treasurer. Over 28, 330 tenth aurokdissement. the corps of officers, about 200 in number, is a colonel, styled a chief of division. These governing officers are well paid, and lodged in proportion to their rank. The governor has 35,000fr. per annum, and 71 rooms for his lodging. The general-commandant, 12,000 fr., and i 8 rooms; the intend- ant, 10,000fr., and 15 rooms ; and the colonel-major, 6000 fr., and 12 rooms, and the others in a similar ratio. All soldiers who are actually disabled by their wounds, or who have served 30 years, are entitled to the privileges of this institu- tion. The soldiers, as well as officers, are boarded, lodged, washed, and clothed. All officers above the rank of captain have the privilege of taking their meals in their own rooms. The officers in the refectory are served upon plate and porce- lain. Their hour for breakfast is past 10, and for dinner, 5. The sub-officers and privates, being numerous, are di- vided into two parties to take their meals, viz., 1st party, breakfast^ before 11, dinner 4: 2d party, breakfast 12, dinner 6. The soldiers have every morning, soup, beef, and a dish of vegetables. In the afternoon, a ragout, with vege- tables, or eggs and vegetables. Each man also receives a litre of wine and 1% pound of white bread daily; the wine and bread being of the same quality for all ranks of officers as well as men : but the officers have some extra dishes. Each man has his bed, straw mattress, wool mattress, and bolster, with a small cupboard for his clothes. Visitors are strongly recommended to go to the Invalides at meal-time, it being a most interesting and gratifying spectacle to witness the great order, cleanliness, and comfort that prevail. In the distribu- tion of meat, wine, and clothing, if any person does not choose to consume the quantity of his allowance, he may receive an equivalent for it in money ; and persons deprived of one or both legs are allowed, instead of their superfluous shoes, their value in money. The pay of the invalids is according to the following scale per month:— private soldier, 2fr., corporal, 3fr. ; sergeant, 4fr. ; sergeant-major, 5fr.; adjutant sub-offi- cer, 6fr. ; sub-lieutenant, 7fr. ; lieutenant, 8fr. ; captain, 10 fr.; chef-de-bataillon, 20fr.; lieut.- colonel, 25fr. ; colonel, 30 fr . The hotel will hold 7,000 invalids, but at present there m not more than 3,500 in it; and even this number, in con- quence of the long continuance of the peace, is likely to be considerably diminished. They all wear the same uniform ; and whenever the king comes within their walls, they have H&TEL DES INVALIDED 331 the privilege of guarding his person exclusively. Their only duty is to mount guard at the hotel and its dependencies. The hotel is approached by an esplanade planted with trees, which extends from the quay on the banks of the Seine, to the iron gate of the outer court, and measures 1440 feet by 780. It was planted in 1750, and replanted in 1818. In the centre of the highroad, which traverses it, and forms a linkbetween the rue St. Dominiqne, is a circular basin, from the centre of which rises a fountain, formerly consisting of a pedestal sur- mounted by the celebrated bronze lion brought from the Place St. Mark, at Venice. This trophy was taken back to Venice by the Austrians, in 1815, and is now replaced by a pedestal with a bust of Lafayette. Before the northern front is a wide terrace laid out as a garden, and bounded by a fosse: on this are placed some magnificent bronze cannon, the fruits of former victories. Among them some Prussian guns, highly orna- mented, are well deserving of inspection ; and near them will be found pieces of artillery captured at Algiers and Antwerp. The front of the hotel is 612 feet in length; it is divided into four storeys, and presents three projecting masses. That in the centre is decorated with Ionic pilasters, supporting anarch, ornamented with military trophies, in which is a bas-relief of Louis XIV. on horseback. Upon the pedestal is the fol- lowing inscription :~— Ludovicus Magnus, Militibus regali munificentia, In perpetuum providens Has aedes posuit An. M.DC.LXXV. At the extremities are two large pavilions crowned by mili- tary trophies, resting upon attics. They are terminated by square terraces surrounded with balconies. In 1800, the four bronze figures by Desjardins, which adorned the statue of Louis XIV., in the Place des Victoires, were placed at the angles of these pavilions. The figures are 12 feet high, and represent the nations conquered by France. The lucarne windows of this front are very remarkable: they are formed of military trophies in stone, each consisting of a cuirass sur- mounted by a helmet and surrounded by a mantle. In the middle of the cuirass is pierced a circular window, and the effect produced is that of a series of gigantic knights defend- ing from above the approaches of the place. The gateway in 332 TENTH AURONDISSEMEKT. the centre leads into the CourRoyale, which is 312 feet long, 192 broad, and is entered by a spacious and elegant vestibule adorned with columns. It is surrounded by four piles of building, having projections in their centre, and pavilions at the angles. Each pile is decorated with two ranges of beau- tifully-formed arcades, crowned by an entablature, and ter- minated by windows ornamented with military trophies. At each angle is a group of horses treading the attributes of war beneath their feet. Behind the arcades are spacious galleries, and beneath the lower galleries is an immense range of cel- lars. In the centre of the southern side is the portico of the church, in front of which is a cast of a statue of Napoleon. It is surmounted by a pediment which contains a clock, sup* ported by statues of Time and Study, and is crowned by a small cupola terminated by a cross. The clock was placed here in 1781, and is one of the finest productions of Lepaute. The wings on the right and left of the front are occupied by the governor, his staff, the physicians and surgeons. In the piles of building to the right and left, on entering the Gour Royale, are four grand refectories, or dining-rooms, conti- guous to the galleries on the ground-floor. Each of them is 150 feet in length by 24 in breadth. One is devoted to the officers, and the three others to the sub-officers and privates. These refectories are ornamented with paintings in fresco, wretchedly executed, representing different fortified towns and places in Flanders, Holland, Alsace, Tranche Comte, Bur- gundy, etc., conquered by Louis XIV. They contain each 30 round tables, at which messes of 12 are formed. The kitchens are two in number, and are situated behind the refec- tories on the left. One serves for the officers and the other for the privates. Adjoining them is a larder for the provisions re- quired for the consumption of the day. Nearly 1000 pounds weight of meat is daily put into the coppers, and the same quantity is used for ragouts. 25 bushels of vegetables are likewise consumed daily. The meat and vegetables arc dressed by economical furnaces, each of which contains eight large coppers. There are in the kitchens two coppers, each of which will dress 12001bs. of meat. In the Plate-room the service given by the Empress Maria Louisa is kept. The Li- brary, founded by Napoleon, occupies the first floor of the central pavilion of the northern front. It contains about 20,000 volumes, as well as a fine portrait of Napoleon in his HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 333 imperial robes, by Ingres, and is open to the invalids only, from 9 to 3 daily, except on Sundays and festivals, in the Council-chamber, which is contiguous to the Library, are kept the portraits of the marshals of France, which are re- moved hither after their decease from the Salle des Mare- chauxai the Tuileries. The visitor will here be disappointed ; the pictures are, with scarcely one exception, wretchedly painted, and are very mean-looking productions. Among them two old ones of the Dukes de Broglie and de Choiseul are alone of any merit. There is also a marble bust of Vau- ban in this apartment. The dormitories are above the refec- tories, at the first and second storeys, and consist of eight spa- cious rooms called the salles de Louvois, d'Haupoult, de Luxembourg, de Mars, d'Assas, de Latour dAuvergne, de Bayard, de Kleber. These dormitories are remarkable for their extent, order, and cleanliness, and contain each from 50 to 55 beds. The other sleeping-rooms contain each from four to eight beds. The infirmaries are upon an extensive scale, are well aired, and possess every requisite depen- dence. The first church, called VEglise ancienne, consists of a single nave, with low side aisles, supporting a gallery which appears behind the arches of the central part of the church. It is 66 feet in height, and about 210 feet in length, by 40 in its least, and 72 feet in its greatest, breadth. The piers of the arches are fronted by Corinthian pilasters, which support a bold cornice ; above which a line of arched win- dows throw light upon the banners that are thickly ranged along both sides of the nave. They are mostly Spanish and Portuguese ; among them, however, are two English flags, and a large collection of Algerine standards, all won on the field of battle. In the time of Napoleon nearly 3000 flags filled the nave ; but on the evening before the entry of the allied armies into Paris, March 31, 1814, the Duke deFellre, minister of war, by order of Joseph Buonaparte, commanded them to be burnt, and the sword of Frederick the Great, which was preserved here, to be broken. The orders to that effect were given thrice before they were obeyed. The nave contains a monument to Count de Guebert, governor of the hotel, who died in 1786; and also of the Duke de Coigny, governor of the hotel, who died in 1822. Governors dying while holding office are alone allowed to be buried under the nave, and to have their monuments placed in the church. 334 Tenth arrondissement, The pulpit is of white marble with gold ornaments. Opposite to it a new chapel of the Virgin has been lately formed. The organ is very fine, and the clock indicates the hours by a cir- cular band revolving round the top of the central group of pipes. A portion of the nave, railed off by a superb fence of polished iron and brass, forms the choir. The high altar, which is covered by a splendid canopy, supported by Corin- thian pillars, is of wood and bronze gilt ; by being placed at the contact of the two churches it serves for both. The se- cond church, or dome, as it is called, is built at the southern end of the first church, and is altogether detached from the rest of the edifice. It consists of a circular tower, surmounted by a dome, placed upon a square mass of building, 138 feet in length, which forms the body of the church. This latter part is divided into two storeys, and in the centre of each front is a projecting part, crowned with a pediment. That of the southern front, which serves as a portico and principal en- trance to the church, is composed of two ranks of columns, the lower ones of the Doric order, the upper of the Corinthian. On each side of the portico is a niche containing statues of St. Louis and Charlemagne. Allegorical figures are also placed in front of the pilasters of the upper storey ; and on the balustrade are groups representing the fathers of the Greek and Latin Churches. The tower of the dome is sur- rounded by 40 composite columns arranged in pairs ; and at the four points, corresponding to the angles of the lower storeys, are projecting compartments which serve the purpose of but- tresses. An attic adorned with circular-headed windows rises from the tower, and from this again springs the dome properly so called. The curve is peculiarly elegant ; the sur- face is divided by 12 ribs into as many compartments, which are occupied by projecting devices of trophies, arms, etc., and, with the ribs themselves, are gilt. From the summit of the dome rises a kind of lantern, surmounted by a spire and globe with a cross, the whole of which is richly gilt. The external appearance of the dome, and of this part of the edi- fice is very fine; and the best place for viewing it is from the avenues that diverge from it on the southern side. The total height from the ground to the summit of the cross is 323 feet. In the interior, the dome is supported by four large masses, pierced with arches, so as to afford from the centre a view of four round chapels, separated from each other by a Greek HOTEL DES INVALIDED 335 cross. The pilasters which adorn these masses, as well as the eight Corinthian columns in front, are fluted, and executed with great perfection. The columns, placed on each side of the entrances to the four chapels, support upon their entabla- ture four galleries with gilt balustrades, and the architecture of the church is in all parts ornamented with fleur de lis and the initials of St. Louis. The dome is united to the old church by the arch in which the high altar stands. The entire pavement is formed of marble, inlaid with lilies and cyphers, the arms of France, and the cordon of the order of the Holy Ghost. The high-altar, which was destroyed at the Revolu- tion, has been restored* under the direction of Boischard, and forms a most magnificent object. It presents a front to each church, and is situated in the midst of six columns, ornamented with bands of vine-leaves and wheat-ears, which pursue a spiral direction from the base to the capital. Upon the en- tablature which they bear are six angels, by Marin, eight feet in height, supporting a canopy, or holding censers. The cha- pels of the dome are six in number; two of them, with the great door, and the sanctuary, form the cross ; the four others are at the angles. The latter, in the same style of architecture, and decorated with similar ornaments, are ascended by seven marble steps. Their elevation is about 74 feetbya diameter of 36, and they are adorned with Corinthian pilasters, bearing entablatures richly ornamented ; while the compartments of the attic and dome in each are painted, and represent the ac- tions and apotheoses of the saints to whom they are dedicated. The first chapel to the right, on entering by the great door, is dedicated to St.Augustin, and was painted by Louis Boullogne. The next in order, forming one of the branches of the cross, is dedicated to the Virgin, and contains a monument toVauban. The third is that of St. Ambroise, and was painted by Boullogne. That on the western side of the altar is the chapel of St. Gregory, and the paintings in it are by Michael Corncille. Next comes the chapel of St. Theresa, forming the western arm of the cross, and occupied by a fine monument toTurenne, by Lebrun, which formerly stood in the church of St. Denis. The last chapel, in the south-west corner, is dedicated to St. Jerome, and was painted by Bon Boullogne. In all these chapels will be found bas-reliefs and sculptured compartments of much merit. The entire ceiling of the grand sanctuary of the dome is painted or gilt, Two magnificent productions of 336 TENTH ARR0ND1SSEMENT. Noel Coypel first attract the attention. One represents the Trinity with angels in adoration; the second, which is below the former, is the Assumption of the Virgin. The arch which forms a frame for these paintings is richly sculptured and gill. This part of the church is lighted by two windows, on the sides of which are figures of angels, with instruments of music. The picture to the right is by Bon Bouliogne, and that to the left is by Louis Bouliogne. Over the entrance to each of the four corner chapels described above are well-exe- cuted bas-reliefs, representing events in the life of St. Louis. The lower vaulting of the dome rests on four arches, in the pcndentives of which, above the galleries with gilt balustrades, are the four evangelists, by La Fosse. They are masterpieces, and being the lowest of all the pictures, and in the best light, are the most conspicuous and remarkable. Towards the sanc- tuary are, St. Mark and St. Matthew; on the opposite side, St. Luke and St. John. Above the pendentives are an entablature and an attic, ornamented with medallions, in bas-relief, of 12 of the kings of France. (1) These portraits are Clovis, Dagobert, Pepin le Bref, Charlemagne, Louis le Debonnaire, Charles le Chauve, Philip Augustus, St. Louis, Louis XII., Henry IV., Louis XIIL, and Louis XIV. These Medallions are by Bosio, Taunay, Ruxthiel, and Cartellier. The attic serves as a base- ment for 24 coupled composite pilasters, between which are windows richly ornamented with brackets, from which gar- lands are suspended. Upon the pilasters rests an entablature from which the upper part of the vault springs. Arches, or- namented w ilh baskets of roses, correspond with the pilasters beneath. Between them are twelve windows, above which are 12 pictures, more than 28 feet in height, by eleven in breadth at bottom, and about eight at top. They were paint- ed by Jouvenet, and represent the 12 apostles with their attri- butes. The cornice above these pictures is ornamented with vine leaves, and forms a circular opening 48 feet in diame- ter, through which is seen a second ceiling, that receives light by the external attic windows not seen from within. The painting of this ceiling, by Lafosse, is of vast extent, and admirable execution. It represents St. Louis arrayed in his (i) At the Revolution these portraits were transformed into those of Grecian and Pioman philosophers, with Voltaire and Rousseau among them. Upon restoring them, Pepin le Bref was substituted for (Jhildebert, HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 337 royal robes, entering into glory amidst angels, and presenting to Jesus Christ the sword with which he triumphed over the enemies of the Christian name. This picture is 50 feet in diameter, and contains more than 30 figures of colossal size.(l) The tower of the dome, and the outer dome itself, cover, it will be perceived, two internal domes, both of stone, and ris- ing, one from the side of the tower, the other from the attic which it supports, and being nearly concentric with the ex- ternal dome itself. This latter is of wood covered with lead, but it is hardly less heavy than if it had been formed of stone. The problem of three domes of stone covering each other has been resolved most successfully at the Pantheon. The visitor of taste cannot fail to be greatly struck with the magnificence of the dome of the Invalids, one of the most sumptuous relics remaining of the age of Louis XIV. The paintings in parti- cular are very well entitled to careful inspection, not only on account of their colouring, but also for their design. The hotel has a small green esplanade in front of the dome to the south, and a fosse, over which a drawbridge used to serve as an entrance to the king whenever he came to the church. Beyond this are wide and magnificent avenues branching in different directions, but which are not kept in that slate of order and cleanliness which as promenades they certainly deserve. The Hotel deslnvalides may be inspected by strangers daily from 10 till 4 ; and on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, per- sons are allowed to ascend to the outer gallery of the dome. After leaving the Invalides, the visitor will do well to look at the Hotel de Chdtelet, at the corner of the rue de Grenelle, which will give him an idea of the grandeur of the nobility in the days of Louis XIV. The Cour d'honneur is one of the finest in Paris. It is tenanted by the Turkish Ambassador. On the oppo- site side of the street is the garden front of the Hotel d'Eck- muhl, rue St. Dominique, formerly the Hotel Monaco. It used to be devoted to the reception of oriental ambassadors. Marshal Davoust, Prince d'Eckmuhl died here in 1823. The hotel is now occupied by the Austrian Ambassador. Southward of these splendid mansions is a third, at the corner of the rue de Varennes, No. 41, the Hotel de Biron, now occupied as a (i) In a vault beneath ihe pavement of the dome are placed the bodies of Marshal Mortier and the other victims of the attempt by Fieschi upon the life of King Louis Plulippe, on the 28th Julv, 1 835, 29 338 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT* convent. The garden extends along the Boulevard des Inva- lides, from the rue de Varennes to the rue de Bahylone, anil the hotel is scarcely inferior to those just mentioned. At the northern corner of the rue de Grenelle, No. 142, on the same side of the Invalides, is St. Vale re, third district church of tenth arrondissement. This small neat church was formerly the chapel of a commu- nity of nuns, called Filles Penitentes de St. Valere, who esta- blished themselves at Paris in 1707. The interior is totally devoid of interest. The visitor will now cross the Esplanade of the Invalides, to the Pont de FAllee d'ANTiN, or des Invalides. — This hand- some suspension-bridge, for carriages as well as foot-passen- gers, was opened on the 20lh December, 1829, and forms a useful communication between Gros-Caillou and the faubourg St. Honore. The chains are supported by two handsome piers, which form arches for the public passage. It is 350 feet in length, and 24 in breadth, a causeway being formed on each side for persons on foot. A toll is paid on passing this bridge. Near to the above is the Manufacture Royale des Tabacs, 29, Quai des Inva- lides. — The French government have the exclusive right of manufacturing snuff for a fixed term of years, granted by a law of the Chambers: and this, the central establishment for the preparation of that article, is on a proportionably exten- sive scale. There is a handsome modern house on the quay for the offices of clerks, etc., and for the residence of the Director. To see the interior, application must be made at the bureau in the house just mentioned. Immediately adjoining it is the Pompe a feu du Gros Caillou, established here by Messrs. Perrier in 1786, for the supplying of the houses on the left bank of the Seine with water. A reser- voir is contained in the tower. , A little beyond this is the Entrepot du Gros Caillou, a large set of warehouses precisely similar to those on the Canal St. Martin (see 8th arrondissement), and nearly the same in size. It is destined to receive the same kind of goods, but is not so much used as its rival. A small railroad goes from the gate of the Entrepot, by the end of the Champ de Mars, to the river near the Barriere de la Cunette. At the corner of the Champ de Mars are the FONTAINE DE MARS. 339 Ateliers de Sculpture.— These consist of two handsome erections for the labours of sculptors employed by the Govern- ment on public monuments, besides a house for the director of the works, stone-yards, sheds, etc. The whole is arranged with great skill, and is worthy of the attention of those stran- gers who are lovers of the fine arts. For tickets of admission, application must be made to M. le Directeur des Bailments el Monuments Publics, au Ministere de Vlnterieur, No, 122, Rue de Grenelle. The stranger may now proceed into that part of the rue St. Dominique which lies to the west of the Esplanade ; and in it he will find, at No. 45, the Hopital Leprince. — This small hospital was founded in 1819, in execution of the will of M. Leprince, who bequeathed a sum for that purpose. It contains 20 beds. The Swurs de la Charite attend the patients. Nearly opposite, No. 60, is St. Pierre du Gros Caillou, fourth district church of 10th arrondissernent. — This church, erected in 1822, after the designs of M. Godde, is remarkable for its beauty and simpli- city. The portico consists of four Tuscan columns, crowned by a pediment. The interior is 160 feet in length by 70 in breadth ; and contains a nave with side -aisles, having chapels at each end, and a semicircular recess for the high altar. The columns of the interior, dividing the aisles from the nave, are also Tuscan, and the whole resembles some of the Roman churches in the simplicity and elegance of their arrangement* It contains no pictures worthy of notice. Beyond this church to the west, is the Hopital Militaire.— -This vast hospital was founded by the Duke de Biron in 1765, for the French guards, and contains nearly 1000 beds ; but 1500 can be made up in it if necessary. Immediately opposite will be perceived the Fontaine de Mars, or, du Gros Gaillou. — This fountain was erected in 1813. It is a square building ornamented with eight Doric pilasters, and an entablature. In the front is a bas-relief, representing Hygeia, the goddess of health, ad- ministering a draught to an exhausted soldier. On the sides are vases, surrounded by the Jsculapian serpent, and adorned, With bas-reliefs; the water proceeds from dolphins' heads. On leaving the rue de Grenelle, the stranger had better go at once to the 340 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. Ecole Miutaire. — Louis XV., by an edict of 1751, founded this school for the gratuitous education of 500 young gentlemen, to be chosen from the sons of poor noblemen, pre- ference being given to those who, having lost their fathers in the field, were considered as children of the state. A certain number of foreign or national boarders were also admissible into the school, upon paying 2000 livres. The Royal Military School, which occupied 10 years in building, was commenced in 1752, after the designs of Gabriel ; the principal entrance is towards the Place de Fontenoy. It presents two courts surrounded with buildings ; the first, which is a square of 420 feet, leads to a second, called the Conr Royale, forming a square of 270 feet. The buildings of the second court are fronted by a gallery, formed of Doric columns. The prin- cipal mass displays a row of Ionic columns above those of the Doric order ; and in the centre is a projecting body ornamented with Corinthian columns, which rise to the top of the second storey, and are crowned by a pediment and an attic. In this court was a statue of Louis XV., by Lemoine, which was broken to pieces at the Revolution. The front towards the Champ de Mars presents two rows of 21 windows each. The central projection is decorated with 10 Corinthian columns, which embrace the two storeys, and support a pediment orna- mented with bas-reliefs, behind which rises a quadrangular dome. In front of the dome is a clock by Lepaute, orna- mented with figures of Time and Astronomy. At the height of the first storey is a balcony, where the royal family take their seats, when present at grand reviews, etc. In the centre is a vestibule adorned with four ranges of columns of the Tuscan order, and four niches. On the first floor, is the Salle du Cornell, adorned with military emblems and pictures. The chapel is magnificent, and resembles that at Versailles, although less sumptuous. The roof is supported by 20 fluted columns of the Corinthian order. The valuable paintings which it possessed were destroyed at the Revolution. The Duke de Choiseul ordered an observatory to be established in this edifice in 1768, and the celebrated astronomer Lalande was charged to carry the project into execution. It was abolished shortly afterwards, buUt was re-established in 1788, by order of the minister Segur, and still exists, under the superintendence of an astronomer, but is upon so small a scale, and so deficient in instruments, that it is not worth PONT BE JENA. 341 visiting 1 . The military school was suppressed in April, 1788, by a decree of the council, and the pupils were distributed in regiments and colleges. (1) In the same year this edifice was one of the four structures destined to replace the hospital of the Hotel Dieu. During the Revolution, the Ecole Militaire was transformed into barracks for cavalry. Napoleon after- wards made it his head-quarters. It now forms barracks for about 3,300 men, infantry, cavalry, and artillery. In one of the cour(s is an artesian well, the boring for which has already reached 625 feet in depth without the principal source of water having been found. For permission to view the inte- rior, application must be made to the governor. Champ de Mars. — Between the Ecole Militaire and the Seine is the Champ de Mars, an immense field belonging to that establishment. It forms a regular parallelogram of 2,700 feet by 1,320. It is flanked by ditches faced with stone, has four rows of trees on each side, and is entered by five gates. The sloping embankments, extending its whole length, were formed by the population of Paris of both sexes and all ranks, in 1790, for the celebrated Fete de la Federation, which took place on the 14lh of July, when an altar, called Vautel de la patrie, was erected in the centre, and Louis XVI. seated in a superb amphitheatre in front of the Ecole Militaire, made oath to maintain the new constitution. More than 60,000 persons were constantly at work till the embankments were completed. Napoleon held here the famous Champ de Mai, before the campaign that was terminated by the battle of Waterloo: and here too, in 1830, King Louis Philippe distri- buted their colours to the National Guards. The Champ de Mars is now principally used for military reviews and ma- noeuvres ; but the horse races for the town of Paris take place here in May and September. Pont de Jena. — This bridge, begun in 1806, after the de- signs of M. Dillon, and under the direction of M. Lamande, was completed in 1813. It is situated opposite the Ecole Militaire, and forms a communication between the Quai de Billy and the Champ de Mars. It consists of five semicircular arches, and the length between the abutments is 460 feet. A ( i) The military schools of France are two in number, namely, V Ecole sptciale'de St. Cyr, and V Ecole pre'paratoire de La Fleche, 29, 342 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. cornice, imitated from the temple of Mars the Avenger, at Rome, and garlands of laurel and oak within which is the letters L placed back to back, are the only ornaments with which it is decorated. At the extremities of the parapets are four pedestals, destined to bear statues. The beautiful sim- plicity and finished execution of this bridge give it a distin- guished place among modern structures. It is the first in Paris formed on a horizontal line, aod of which the pavement is level with the approach. It has more than once changed its name. That oi Jena was at first given to this bridge in me- mory of the famous battle gained over the Prussians, on the 14th of October, 1806. When the Prussians came to Paris in 1814, they would have blown up the Pont de Jena, and some attempts were made without success. A negotiation was entered into, when it was agreed that the bridge should be preserved, but that its name should be changed. By a royal ordonnance of July, 1814, it was named Pont des Inva- lides. Since 1830, however, it has once more resumed its original name. West of the Champs de Mars is an establishment called the Gymnase Normal Militaire el Civil, Place Dupleix ; more especially intended for the instruction of the military. A little to the north of the Barriere de Grenelle, on the outer boule- vard, an absorbing well has been formed on the same prin- ciple as an artesian one, which consumes the products of a sewer rapidly and surely. It is 200 feet deep. South-east of the Ecole Militaire, is the Abattoir de Grenelle. — Like the other edifices, this abattoir consists of several courts and piles of building. It is situated near the Place de Breteuil, and was begun in 1811, after the designs of M. Gisors. The experiment of boring for an artesian well has been tried in this abattoir, and has pro- ceeded through the geological formations beneath those of the Paris basin, as well as through the chalk into the green sand, without finding the principal supply of water sought for. 1050 feet have thus been attained without success. Some in- teresting experiments have, however, been made here with the thermometer let down to that depth, which rose to the height of 40 deg. 8min. 24 sec. Fahrenheit, while at the top of the well it stood at 21 deg. 36 min. Fahrenheit : thus cor- roborating other instances lately discovered of an increase of temperature proportioned to the descent towards the centre of the earth. HOPITAL DES ENFANS MALADES. 343 The visitor may, though he is not recommended to do so, step outside the Barriere de Sevres to examine the Cemetery de Vaugirard, situated at the entrance of the village of Vaugirard ; and the gale by which it is entered, at No. 7, on the left, is marked by a cross. It is the second cemetery that was opened, and consists of a small plain sur- rounded by walls. It contains few if any tombs worthy of notice ; among them, on a plain mural monument, is an in- scription to the memory of Clair on ; and near that celebrated aclress lies the well-known writer La Harpe. The ground being entirely occupied by tombs, this cemetery is no longer used except for persons dying at the hospitals, those deposited in the Morgue, and those executed for capital offences. The cemetery generally is allowed to go to ruin. On returning from this, the stranger will come to the Hopital de Madame Necker, 151, rue de Sevres. — This house was formerly a convent of Benedictine nuns, who quitted it about the year 1775, and joined the general convent of their order. It remained unoccupied till 1779, when, at the suggestion of the wife of the celebrated minister Necker, Louis XVI. assigned funds to convert it into an hospital, of which Madame Necker passed for the foundress. The cases admitted here are the same as those treated at the Hotel Dieu. The number of beds is 140, and the utmost cleanliness and order prevail. The chapel possesses two fine statues of Aaron and Melchizedek, in marble, which were bought for 1,200 fr. of an individual who discovered them in the ground when digging for the foundations of a house. In the room of the Scaurs de la Charite are portraits of Madame Necker and Ma- dame de Stael. Permission is readily given to visit this esta- blishment. Next door to this hospital is the Hopital des Enfans Malades. — Upon this spot there ex- isted a charity-school, called Maison de V Enfant Jesus, which was purchased, in 1732, by Languet de Gergy, rector of St. Sulpice, and opened for the reception of poor girls and sick women of his parish. It was afterwards converted into a school for the daughters of poor noblemen. In 1802, this house was formed into an hospital for sick children. The salu- brity of the air, and the extensive walks, contribute greatly to the speedy convalescence of the young patients. It con- tains 560 beds. The children are admitted from 2 to 15 years 344 S'ENTH AimONDISSEMENT. of age. Gratuitous advice is also given to sick children in the neighbourhood. The Dames de St. Thomas de Villeneuve attend upon the patients. Strangers are allowed to visit this hospital. At the corner of the Boulevard, in the same street, No. 104, is a convent of the Dames de St. Thomas de Villeneuve: and at No. 95, is a religious society of the Lazarists, with a small chapel fronting the street. Opposite to this is the Fontaine Egyptienne.— -This beautiful fountain was con- structed in 1806. It presents the gate of an Egyptian temple, in the opening of which is a statue holding in each hand a vase, from whence water falls into a semicircular basin, and issues thence by the head of a spbynx, in bronze. In the en- tablature is an Egyptian eagle. The visitor may now enter the Hospice des Incurables Femmes, 54, rue de Sevres.— This house, originally called Hopital des Incurables, was founded in 1634, by Cardinal de la Rochefoucaull, as appears by an inscription over the door of the church. The buildings present nothing interesting in their external appearance, but are commodiously distributed. The chapel is spacious and neat; it contains three altars, handsomely decorated; many pictures, one of which bears the date of 1404 ; and an elegant marble monument in honour of the founder. In this institu- tion there are 494 or 500 beds for women, 55 for children, and 57 for persons employed : but more can be accommodated if necessary. Visitors, and especially foreigners, will meet with the most polite attention at the bureau of the Director, and may be admitted daily. A little farther to the east will be found the Hospice des Menages, 28, rue de la Chaise, which was once a lazaretto for children afflicted with scorbutic and other cutaneous diseases. In 1554, the old building having been pulled down, the municipality of Paris bought the ground and materials, and erected an hospital for beggars, old men, idiots, etc., called Hopital des Petites Maisons, because the courts were surrounded by small houses. By an ordonnance of October, 1801, this institution w as appropriated exclusively to the aged and infirm, and received the name of Hospice des Menages, a name indicative of its object. It is now appro- priated to aged persons of both sexes, married or widowed, who have resided in Paris ; and contains 160 large chambers ST. FRANCOIS XAVIER. 345 for married couples, 100 small chambers for widows and widowers, and 250 beds in the dormitories. Eighty of the best chambers are reserved for couples 60 and 70 years of age, who can give 3,200 fr. for admission ; the remaining 80 are for couples entirely destitute of resources, one of whom must be 70 and the other at least 60 years of age. The 100 small chambers are destined for those widows and widowers who are 60 years old at least, have been married 20 years, and can pay 1,600 fr. on admission. Of the 250 beds in the dormitories, 150 are appropriated to such men as have be- come widowers in the hospital; of the remaining 100 beds, 50 are for widows and widowers; and the others for persons 60 years of age, who have been married at least 20 years, and can pay 1,000 fr. on their admission. Each inmate is required to bring a bedstead, a paillasse, two mattresses, a bolster, two blankets, two pair of sheets, two chairs, and a chest of draw- ers. Each receives a pound and a quarter of bread per day; the sum of 3 fr. every ten days ; a pound of meat every week ; and a double stere of wood, and two voies of charcoal a-year. The buildings are plain, but neat and clean, and the garden attached to the institution is extensive. The Sceurs de Charite attend this establishment. Strangers may visit this highly-useful and interesting hospital every day. At the junction of the streets opposite to this hospital is an ediflce serving as a fountain, but of no interest ; and imme- diately to the east is the Abbaye aux Bois, first chapel of ease to St. Thomas d'Aquin, 16, rue de Sevres. Contiguous to this church was a convent, which was bought in 1719, by a community of nuns called Keligieuses de Notre 'Dame aux Bois. The church was built at that period, but presents no- thing remarkable in point of architecture. The only pictures of note that it contains are a Virgin, and Dead Christ, by Lc- brun ; a St. John the Baptist, by Vincent ; and a portrait of Mad. de la Valliere. Opposite to this is the Maison du Noviciat des Ueligieuses Hospitalieres de St, Thomas de Villeneuve, 27, rue de Sevres. The visitor will now proceed by the rue du Bac, in which, at No. 132, is the Hotel Chdtillon, built by a pupil of Man- sard, and now occupied by the Congregation des Sceurs de St, Vincent de Paule, better known as the Sceurs de Charite, North of this stands St. Francois Xavier, or, Eguse des Missions Etran- 346 TENTH ARRONDISSEMEKT. Geres, second chapel of ease to St. Thomas d'Aquin, 120, rue du Bac. — A missionary seminary was founded at this spot in the 17th century, by Bernard de Ste. Therese, Bishop of Babylon, who gave the whole of his property to the institu- tion. The church was begun in 1683, after the designs of Dubuisson. It consists of two parts, one being on the ground- floor, and the other immediately above. The lower church is perfectly plain, and service is performed in it only on Sun- days. The upper one, of the Ionic order, is slightly cruci- form, the western and longer arm of the cross serving for the choir, and communicating with the seminary behind. Over the altar is the Adoration of the Magi ; and on the south side of the choir is a good painting by Bon Boullogne, of Christ driving the money-changers from the Temple ; while, on the north is a small copy of one of the cartoons of Raphael. In the north transept, used as a chapel of the Virgin, is a Holy Family, of the French school of Lebrun, or perhaps later, which is by no means a bad picture ; and in the southern transept, or chapel of St. Francois Xavier, is the apotheosis of the saint. Over the eastern door is the organ, and a small gallery. The seminary is intended for the instruction of young men in the sciences and languages necessary for mis- sionaries in the east ; its superior for the lime being is also rector of the church ; and the institution can boast of having numbered among its members the virtuous Abbe Edgeworth, Who attended Louis XVI. in his last moments, on the scaffold. After leaving this church the stranger, if fond of examining into the domestic architecture of the times of Louis XIV. and XV., may amply gratify his curiosity by wandering into some of the streets that cross the rue du Bac ; and in any one of them he is sure of finding something that is interesting. In the rue de Babylone is a barrack for infantry, famous for the attack and defence of it in the Revolution of 1830 ; and in the rue Vanneau is a newly-erected house well worthy of examination, being a faithful example of the style of Fran- cis I. In the rue de Varennes, No. 23, is the hotel of the late Duchess de Bourbon, now the residence of Mad. Adelaide d' Orleans. It was constructed by Brongniart, and stands in a fine garden. No. 35, in the same street, is the Hotel d'Orsay, formerly belonging to the eccentric and wealthy M. Seguin. Near this is the Ecole Royale pes Ponts et Ghaussees, 10, rue Hil- HOTEL DE GALIFET. 347 Icrin Bertin. — The origin of this school dates as far back as 1747, but it assumed no importance till 1784. The object of this establishment is to afford instruction in the art of pro- jecting and constructing works relative to roads, canals, bridges, ports, and public buildings dependent on them. The school possesses a rich collection of plans, maps, and models, relative to these operations. The pupils are all taken from the Polytechnic School. The government of the establish- ment is vested in the Minister of the Interior, and the Direc- tor-general des Ponls et Ghaussees et des Mines. It is impos- sible to visit this institution without a special order from the Directeur. In the rue de Grenelle, at the corner of the rue Belle- C basse, is the ancient convent of Panthemont, now used as a barrack for cavalry. The chapel, which fronts the street, is surmounted by a well-proportioned dome, and is a good ar- chitectural object. The whole of this street contains the elite of the ancient nobility of Paris ; the western part has, at No. 116, the hotel of the Minister of Public Instruction; at No. 122, are the offices of the Minister of Commerce; and at Nos.101 and 1 03, the residence and offices of the Minister of the Interior. Between the rue de Yarennes and the rue de Gre- nelle, in the rue du Bac, at No. 84, is the Hotel de Galifet, built in 1785, after the designs of Legrand,for the Marquis de Galifet, and now belonging to his heirs. It was occupied by the Minister for Foreign Affairs. Its situation is fine, the apartments are spacious and elegant, and the exterior achitec- lure is rich. The Hotel de Galifet was occupied by the Duke of Northumberland during his residence at Paris, as the re- presentative of his sovereign, at the coronation of Charles X. There is also another street in this neighbourhood, the rue St. Dominique, celebrated for its noble residences ; among them, the following are worthy of observation ; the Hotel de Luynes, No. 33 ; theHotel of the late Duchess Dowager of Or- leans, No. 58, formerly inhabited by the Arch-chancellor of the Empire, Cambaceres ; the Hotel de Grammont,No. 103, and the Hotel deValentinois , No.105. At No. 82, is the residence and of- fice of the Minister of War. This is a very large establishment, and contains a very fine and valuable library, which is cele- brated for the following literary and historical treasures ; the complete correspondence of the Ministers of War, from the reign of Louis XIII. to 1814 ; the autograph letters of Louis 348 TENTH AimONDlSSEMENT. XIV. to Philip V. his son, King of Spain ; the military me- moirs relative to the wars of the Spanish succession, part of which have been already published ; the correspondence of Napoleon and General Berthier; a vast collection of the most valuable geographical documents, including the drawings, etc., from which the large official maps of France, corre- sponding to the ordnance survey maps of England, are now publishing ; a very extensive series of drawings of the battles of Napoleon, made from strict admeasurement, afterwards executed on the spots, by order of the Emperor; together with a very great number of various interesting and import- ant documents, the most valuable of which are successively publishing under the title of Memorial du Depot de la Guerre. To visit this library application must be made to M. le Direc- teur du Depot de la Guerre y 82, rue St. Dominique. From hence the visitor may return to the head of the rue duBac, and resume his examination of the 10th arrondissement on another occasion, or he may at once pass out of the rue du Bac, by the rue St. Vincent de Paule, to St. Thomas d'Aquin, parish church of the tenth arron dissement, Place St. Thomas d'Aquin. — This church formerly belonged to a convent of jacobins, founded by Cardinal Riche- lieu. It was begun in 1683, after the designsof Peter Bullet. The front, rebuilt in 1787, by brother Claude, one of the monks, is decorated with two ranges of columns of the Doric and Ionic orders, surmounted by a pediment, in which is a bas-relief representing Religion, and is terminated by a cross. This church is 132 feet in length, and 72 feet in height. The interior is ornamented with Corinthian pilasters, the capitals of which are carved with unusual spirit and elegance. The spandrils of the arches are filled with wreaths of flowers and fruit, and above a bold cornice runs a narrow gallery allround the church, over which windows rise to the roof. The church is slightly cruciform, the depth of the transepts being equal to the width of the aisles. The high-altar of white marble is placed at the entrance of the choir, which, separated from the rest of the edifice, is a privileged chapel, dedicated to St. Louis. In the south aisle is a good Crucifixion, by Guillemot, painted in 1639, and of considerable merit. In the north aisle is the Prodigal Son, by Roehn, and the Conversion of St. Paul, by La Hyre, the latter a remarkable picture. Over the sacristy door, in the south transept, is a picture of St. MUSEE DART1LLERIE. 349 Louis, looking more like one of Louis XIII. ; and in the north is one of St. Catherine. The church is celebrated for its preachers, and still more for the nobility of its congregations. Adjoining to this church is the Musee d'Artillerie. — This museum, established in an ancient convent of the Jacobins, was originally formed of arms from the Garde-meuble de la Gouronne, the Chateau dc Chantilly, the Chateau de Sedan, and other extensive armo- ries. During the last war the museum was greatly augmented by the spoils of the enemy ; but in 1814, was much diminished by the removal of arms claimed by the allied powers. During the Hundred Days it was re-established ; but, in 1815, ac- cording to Dulaure, the Prussians carried off 580 chests of arms. The collection occupies live galleries ; one of which contains suits of ancient armour ; and the four others, arms, models of arms, machines, and instruments used in the artil- lery service, etc. The principal gallery, into which the vi- sitor first enters is divided into three parts. The first division presents suits of armour worn by knights between the begin- ning of the reign of Henry IV. and the end of that of Louis XIV. ; in the second, are those of the age of Francis L, be- tween 1500 and 1589 ; and in the third, those of knights who died before the year 1500. The visitor may observe among other objects, in the first division, a helmet worn by the Con- netable Anne de Montmorency, and the cuirass of the great Conde; the fine suit of armour made at Brescia, and pre- sented by the republic of Venice to Louis XIV., in 1688 ; the sword, helmet, and other remains of the armour of Henry IV. ; of Turenne ; the father and mother of Turenne ; the Con- netable Lesdiguieres ; the Count de Soissons; Frederick V., king of Bohemia; the brave Crillon ; Marshal de Biron; the Duke de Mayenne, chief of the ligue ; and many others. In the 2d division, Francis I. appears in full armour on horse- back; on the pedestal are bas-reliefs representing the battle of Marignan. The suits here are of Louis XII ; Charles IX. ; the Duke de Guise ; Louis, Prince de Conde, uncle of Henry IV ; the Connetable Anne de Montmorency, so celebrated in the religious wars of France; the Connetable de Bourbon ; the Chevalier Bayard ; and a richly-ornamented helmet, believed to have been presented to St. Louis by the sultan of Egpyt, about the middle of the 13th century. In the 3d division is the armour of (iodefroy de Bouillon, king of Jerusalem; Charles VII ; Louis 30 350 TENTH ARROND1SSEMENT. XI.; Charles VIII. ; Joan of Arc, the Maid of Orleans ; Jean-sans- peur ; Charles-le-Temeraire, Duke of Burgundy ; and many others. At the extremity of the gallery are two trophies of arms, composed of pieces of rich and costly execution ; and on brackets near them two ancient helmets, one of which is at- tributed to Attila, who died in 453 ; the other, on which are some verses of the Koran in Arabic characters, is believed to have belonged to Abderame, killed by Charles Martel, in 730. In the other galleries, which are numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4, are racks opposite the windows, in which are arranged small arms, ancient and modern. The most curious and costly articles are in glass cases. Along the sides, next the windows, are rows of tables, presenting models of cannon, gun-carriages, military equipages, machines, instruments, etc. Upon the floor under the racks are models of large dimensions. On the piers between the windows are placed an assortment of va- rious instruments. Among an infinity of curious and inter- esting objects, the visitor will not fail to notice the sword worn by Francis I., at the battle of Pavia, of the Connetable Duguesclin, and Henry IV. ; and the poniard with which Ra- vaillac assassinated that monarch in 1610. A very excellent catalogue is published, and is to be had at the door, price lfr. A building lately constructed for the reception of the naval charts, etc., belonging to government, is also attached to this museum; but it is not open to the public. Strangers are ad- mitted on Thursdays and Saturdays from 1 to 3, on produc- ing their passports. In the rue de Grenelle, No. 57, which lies to the east of the rue du Bac, is the Fontaine de Grenelle, one of the finest in Paris. — Bou- chardon, who furnished the designs, executed the figures, bas-reliefs, and some of the ornaments. It was begun in 1739, and finished in 1745. The building is of a semicircular form, 90 feet in length by 36 in elevation. In the centre is a portico, consisting of four Doric columns supporting a pedi- ment. In front of it is a group in white marble, representing the city of Paris sitting upon the prow of a ship, and regard- ing with complacency the Seine and the Marne at her feet. In the lateral niches are allegorical statues. Between the columns is a marble tablet, with the following inscription, by Cardinal Fleury : — ST. GERMAIN DES PRES. 351 Dum Ludovicus XV., Populi amor et Parens optimus, Publics tranquillitatis assertor, Gallici Imperii finibus, Innocue propagatis; Pace Germanos, Russosquc Inter et Ottomanos Feliciter conciliate, Gloriose simul et pacifice Regnabat, Fontem hunc civium utilitati, Urbisque ornamento Consecrarunt Prajfectus et iEdiles, Anno Domini M.DCC.XXX.IX. From hence the rue de Grenelle leads into the rue des Saints Peres ; and at the corner of this and the rue Jacob is the Hopital de la Charite, 45, rue Jacob. — This hospital was founded in 1613, by Mary de Medicis, for a religious commu- . nity called Freres de la Charite, who were all surgeons or « apothecaries, and not only afforded corporeal relief to the sick, but assisted them in their spiritual duties. A new ward and portico were erected in 1784 ; the latter is in the rue des Saints Peres, and formerly seryed as an entrance to the hos- pital, but is now closed. The courts are spacious and airy, and there are several gardens in which the patients are allow- ed to walk. In the church of this hospital a clinical medical school has been established. It contains 500 beds, including those belonging to the clinical school. The same diseases are treated here as at the Hotel Dieu and the Hopital de la Pitie. The Sceurs de St. Vincent de Paule attend upon the patients. Strangers are admitted daily with the greatest liberality, upon application at the porter's lodge. The next street, to the east of the rue St. Benoist, in the rue Jacob, leads to St. Germain des Pees. — This is the abbey-church of one of the most extensive and most ancient conventual establish- ments of Paris. Childebert, son of Clovis, on the instigation of St. Germain, Bishop of Paris, founded a monastery about the year 550, though the Pragmaticum, which is still pre- served among the archives du royaume, dates from 561. He 352 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. dedicated the church to the Holy Cross, St. Stephen, and St. Vincent; the relicts of the latter of which saints he had brought with him from Spain, and which he gave to the mo- nastery, together with the treasure which he had taken from Ainalaric, at Toledo, and a piece of the true cross. This foundation was endowed with many estates, and among others with the fief of Issy, which extended over the whole of the southern bank of the Seine, from the Petit Pont in Paris, to the village of Sevres. Throughout all this domain the society possessed full power of jurisdiction, which they retained till 1674 ; and the prison of the Abbaye still remains as a monu- ment of their authorily. The church, which was dedicated in 557, was celebrated for its decorations, and was called " The golden basilic." The buildings, gardens, etc, which occupied the site either of a Roman temple, or of some build- ing dependent upon the Roman imperial palace, were with- out the walls of Paris; but in 861, the Normans, in their in- cursions along the course of the Seine, attacked, and nearly destroyed, the whole of the establishment. The church itself was burnt; and it is believed that no part of that edifice re- mains, except some of the lower work of the western lower. The tomb of Childebert was no doubt injured at this period ; but it was carefully restored by the monks after the retiring of the invaders. It would appear, indeed, according to some ac- counts, that the abbey suffered three attacks of the Normans in 846, 853, and 886 ; but it is certain that the edifice was soon afterwards repaired ; and that the Abbot Morardus, 26lh in the list, began rebuilding the church in 990. The work w^as carried on by his successors at various intervals, till 1163, when Hugues III., abbot of the monastery, having com- pleted the restoration of it, had it consecrated by Pope Alex- ander III. No material alteration of this building took place till 1644 and 1653-6, when the society had the wood-work of the choir altered, and in place of the wooden ceiling of the nave, formed the stone vaulting that is now to be seen there. The great altar was at this time moved to the entrance of the choir, and the tomb of Childebert was also placed in the mid- dle of the church. This edifice, however, was not the only place of worship in the monastery : the chapel of Notre Dame was built about the middle of the 13th century, by Pierre de Montereau, under the abbacy of Hugues dTssy, and was finished in the time of Thomas de Mauleon, his successor. ST. GERMAIN DES PRES. 353 This, if we may judge by the fragments that remain, was one of the most exquisite pieces of architecture of the middle ages. About the same time also Abbot Simon, in 1239, began the sumptuous refectory, which was finished in 1244. This build- ing probably resembled that of St. Martin des Champs, and was not unlike a church. In 1227 also the cloisters were erected on the northern side of the church, by Abbot Oddo ; so that the monastery altogether, at the time of the Revolu- tion, and before the buildings were destroyed, must have been a rich repository of the architecture of the 13lh and preceding centuries. In 1369, the whole abbey was fortified against the English by Charles V. ; and, in the time of Henry IV., more than two centuries later, still remained without the walls of the town, fortified by itself, and surrounded with walls and turrets, like its rival St. Martin des Champs. At this latter period a moat went round the walls of the abbey ; and to the west of it, where part of the Faubourg St. Germain now stands, was an open space called the Pre aux Clercs, from its being a favourite place of exercise for the students or clercs of the University. Up to 1503, the abbots had been generally elected by the society, but after that period, they were nomi- nated by the crown ; and, among other distinguished men who attained this honour, was Casimir, King of Poland, who died in 1672. One of the most remarkable events connected with the history of this celebrated abbey, was the joining to its society, in 1644, the illustrious congregation of St.Maur ; a circumstance that produced those learned benedictines, whose historical and critical labours have formed an epoch in modern literature. Mabillon, Montfaucon, Achery, Ruinart, etc., were all of this abbey. The abbot's palace was built by the Cardinal de Bourbon, in 1586, and still exists, a large brick building, cast of the church; but, at the time of the Revolution, this abbey being suppressed, the buildings were seized for public pur- poses, and a saltpetre-manufactory was established in them. An explosion took place in 1794, when the refectory and library were destroyed, and the church much damaged; two of its towers being thrown down. The building remained in very bad repair till the reign of Charles X., when the restoration of it was commenced by M. Godde, and continued till 1836, in which year it was completely terminated. The site of the chapel of Notre Dame is now occupied by a street, where part of the side- walls remain ; houses stand on the cloisters and 30. 354 TfcNTII ARRONDISSEMENT. where the Refectory once existed ; but hardly any traces now remain of the conventual buildings except the abbot's man- sion and the church. As it now stands, the church is one of the most interesting monuments of Paris, being perhaps the earliest church of which the dates are clearly ascertained. It is cruciform, with a nearly circular east end, and quadripartite vaulting throughout ; the nave is simple, having plain side aisles without chapels ; but the choir is surrounded by them. There is no triforium in the nave, and the arches are of the horse-shoe shape: all this part is of the time of the Abbot Morardus, in 990. The two eastern towers that stood one on each side of the choir, in the angles formed by the transepts, were also of his time ; their upper parts no longer exist, but the western tower is in full preservation. That part of the choir which stands between the eastern towers is supposed lo be intermediate in date to the nave and the choir ; the latter of which is of the work of Abbot Hugues III., in 1163. All the capitals of the pillars forming the piers will be particularly remarked for the grotesque or sacred devices of which they are composed; many of those in the nave are restorations of the old ones, which, from their ruinous state, were obliged to be removed ; they were, however, copied with the most scrupulous fidelity, and the whole forms a valuable and cu- rious series of early sculpture. The square-headed triforium of the choir is also worthy of notice, as well as the western porch, which, though of the same date as the choir, is ruder in its execution. The modern decorations of this church are as follow: — The high altar, placed at the entrance of the choir, has been lately restored ; it is of white marble, and stands on a raised platform of all the most beautiful marbles of France, producing a most gorgeous effect. In the north aisle of the nave are two pictures of very great merit, by Gazes, of the date 1784, one the Martyrdom of St. Vincent ; the other St. Paul haranguing Herod and Berenice. Between them, the Death of Sapphira, by Leclerc, 1718, and the Baptism of the Eunuch, by Bertin, 1718, are also good pictures. In the south aisle there is a very fine Presentation of Christ in the Temple, the colouring and design of which bear some traces of a disciple of Rubens. A small chapel adjoining the south transept has a very curious ceiling, boldly painted ; and the transept itself, which is the chapel of Ste. Marguerite, con- tains a handsome tomb to one of ths GasteHane family. The STi GERMAIN DES PRES. 355 chapel of the choir next to the sacristy has a tomb of James Duke of Douglas, who died 1645. The next chapel, besides a picture of St. Francis de Sales, possesses, it is said, the re- mains of Descartes, Mabillon, and Montfaucon. The Lady chapel is of very recent construction, and has two very ably- painted grisailles. The north aisle of the choir has a chapel opposite to that of St. Francis de Sales, in which a monument has lately been erected to Boileau, whose remains are said to lie here (1) ; and in that next adjoining is a tomb of anotherof the Douglas family, Earl of Douglas and Angus, who died in 1611. The north transept contains the tomb of Casimir, King of Poland, who abdicated his crown in 1668, and died abbot of the monastery in 1672 ; the king is on his knees of- fering up his crown to heaven, and in front of the tomb is a very valuable bas-relief of one of his battles. In this tran- sept there is a modern painting, the Martyrdom of St. Law-* rence, by Cuny, which is of great excellence. On the north side of the high altar is a picture by Steuben, of St. Germain giving away his goods to the poor ; and on the south side, the Raising of Lazarus, by Verdier. The tomb of Ghiidebert, that formerly stood in the middle of the church, is now at St. Denis ; for a description of this, and of the interesting discoveries made in the opening of other tombs of this church, as well as for the general history of the abbey, the reader is referred to the History of Paris. (2) The dimensions of the church are 200 feet in length, 65 in breadth, and 60 feet in height. After leaving this most interesting church, and passing into the rue St. Marguerite, the visitor will perceive, nearly at the corner of this street and the rue de l'Echaudee, the gloomy prison of the Abbaye, with a small turret engaged in the wall at each corner (see Prisons). Following the rue de l'Echau- dee, he will come into the rue de Seine, and go by the smalt Passage du Pont Neuf, one of the first established in Paris, into the rue Guenegaud, which leads on to the Quai Conti* The sentimental stranger will immediately recollect from theso names that he is on a spot celebrated by the genius of Sterne; and, though he may no longer meet with similar adventures (0 f he best authorities place Boileau's remains in the Samtex Chapelle. (See 9th arrondissement.) (a) History of Paris, 3 vols. 8vo., 2 4fr. Galignani and Co. There is also a History of the Abbey by D0111 Bouillard, who, as was stated above, was one of the learned Benedictines of the society. 35® TENTtt ARRONMSSEMEffT. on the Pont Neuf, he may still find a bookseller's shop on the Quai Conti, where many a femme de chambre still enters or passes by, though not always accompanied by a sentimentalist like Sterne, nor followed by a valet like Lafleur. On this quay is the Hotel des Monnaies.—A mint is known to hare existed in Fans under the second race of kings, and to have been placed somewhere in the Royal Palace of the He de la Cite. It was afterwards established in the rue de la Monnaie. This building falling into ruins, the government determined to pull U down, and erect a new mint. The site of the Hotel de l,onti having been judged eligible for that purpose, its de- molition was begun in 1768. Plans were furnished by An- tome, and the first stone of the present structure was laid on ^Oth April, 1771, by the Abbe Terray, comptroller-general of the finances. The principal front is 360 feet in length, and 78 in elevation. It is three storeys high, each storey having 27 openings for windows and doors. In the centre is a pro- jecting mass with five arcades on the ground floor, forming a basement for six columns of the Ionic order. These columns support an entablature and an attic, ornamented with festoons and six statues. The front towards the rue Guenegaud is 348 feet in length. Two pavilions rise at its extremities, and a third in the centre ; the intermediate buildings liave only two storeys. The plan of the edifice consists of eight courts, of which that communicating with the rue Guenegaud is the most spacious. It is surrounded by a covered gallery, in front of which are busts of Henry II., Louis XIII., Louis XIV., and Louis XV., by whom important improvements were intro- duced into the establishment. The peristyle in front, formed of four Doric columns, leads to the Salle des Balanciers. The architect had the precaution to detach this part of the edifice, in order that the other buildings might not feel the effects of the concussion occasioned by the stamping-machines. The visitor is conducted to the foundry, where the metal is melted and cast in bars; to the Salle des Laminoirs, where the bars are flattened and punched; the Salle de Recuit, where the bars after having been flattened are subjected to the action of fire, so that they will sooner break than bend ; the Salle a blan- chir, where the pieces of metal when cut are brought to their natural colour; the Salle des Ajusteurs, where the pieces are weighed and reduced to their standard weight ; t\\v$alle d'lm- Hotel des m^nnaies. 357 pression, where the exergue is impressed on the edge of the coin ; and the Salle des Balanciers, where the coin is struck. The central arcade of the principal front leads into a vestibule, adorned with 24 fluted Doric columns. On the right is a staircase decorated with sixteen columns of the same order, at the top of which is a magnificent saloon, adorned with 20 Corinthian columns in stucco, supporting a gallery that sur- rounds the apartment. In this room is contained an immense collection of all the coins of France, and of all other countries, that can be collected, classed chronologically, besides the me- dals struck upon various public occasions. The monetary collection of France begins with 2 coins of Ghildebert I., of the date 511-568, and is nearly complete to the present day. Among them the gold pieces of 10 Louis, in the time of Louis X1IL, are of remarkable size and beauty. The series of Louis XIV. are magnificent coins, and are interesting, as showing the monarch's portrait from his infancy up to man- hood. The collection of English coins is good ; but the ear- liest it contains is a half gold noble of Edward IIL, date 1431-72. The earliest Spanish coin kept here is of the date 638. Here too will be remarked the Mexican money, square lumps of metal stamped after being merely weighed : some curiously rude money stamped by Napoleon during the siege of Caltaro; the lozenge shaped rix-dalerof Cologne, date 1583 ; money of King Otho of Greece, 5 drachm pieces; money of Don Miguel ; Turkish money, date 1730-54, of very great in- trinsic value, containing 996 parts of pure gold out of 1,000; the money of the Liberator Bolivar ; and that of the United States of North America. Among the medals will be observed one of Charlemagne, an invaluable relic of most excellent execu- tion, worthy of the best times of Rome; Charles VIII., date 1461, the earliest medal of which the original die is pos- sessed by this museum ; Boccaccio ; Louis XII. ; Henry VIII. ; Francis I.; Ignatius Loyola; Francis II. and Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots ; Cardinal Richelieu, a superb medal by Varin, for the striking of which that artist had his life granted him ; the Convent of the Val de Grace ; and the States of Languedoc. To these should be added the complete series of Louis XIV., XV., XVI., the Republic, and the Empire, the whole of which forms a national collection that is unrivalled. In this room too there is a collection of all the metals used in coining, in 35$ TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. Iheir mineral state ; and in an adjoining one are models of all the instruments used in coining and proving money, both ancient and modern. The gallery, with some adjacent rooms, contains all the dies of the coins and medals struck in France since the reign of Charles YIII., forming an equally curious collection with that in the lower part of the saloon. Here loo are preserved all the dies of private medals, tokens, etc., which have been executed here for individuals, public so- cieties, commercial companies, etc. There is a very copious and learned catalogue published of the whole, with de- tailed descriptions of the medals; and, from its low price of 3 francs, the visitor will do well to possess such a valuable octavo volume. All the medals, of which the dies are pos- sessed, are sold for the benefit of the establishment ; and of those coins, of which only one specimen exists, or of which the dies are lost, casts exactly resembling the originals are exhibited in the cases of the museum, the originals being carefully preserved and never shown to the public. In the Hotel des Monnaies are performed all the operations of coining, besides the verification and stamping of the gold and silver articles made in Paris. It is also the seat of the general admi- nistration of the coins of the realm. (1) This splendid mu- seum is open to the public on Tuesdays and Fridays, and to foreigners with passports on Mondays and Thursdays, from 12 to 4. To the west stands The Palais de l'Institut. — The meetings of the Insti- tute were held at the Louvre till 1806, when the government granted to them the College Mazarin, now called the Palace of the Institut, on the Quai Conti. This edifice was founded in execution of the will of Cardinal Mazarin, for the sons of 60 gentlemen or principal burgesses of Roussillon, Pignerol, Alsace, and Flanders, which had been recently conquered or annexed to the crown. These nations alone being admissible into the college, it took the name of Quatre Nations, The (i) In France, besides the Hotel des Monnaies at Paris, there are mints in 12 other cities of France: viz. Bayonne, Bordeaux, la Pxochelle, Lille, Limoges, Lyons, Marseilles, Nantes, Perpignan, Rouen, Strasbourg, and Toulouse. Each mint has its separate officers, but all are subject to the authority of the Administra- tion des Monnaies* PALAIS DK L'lNSTlTtTT. 359 cardinal bequeathed to the college his library, the sum of 2,000,000 livres for the expense of its construction, and an annuity of 45,000 livres. This edifice was commenced in 1661, after the designs of Levau. The front forms the seg- ment of a circle, terminated at the extremities by pavilions, standing on open arcades. In the centre is the portico of the church (now the hall where the public meetings are held), composed of four columns and two pilasters of the Corinthian order, surmounted by a pediment. Above the portico rises a dome surmounted by a small cupola, and along the rooms of the pavilions, which are ornamented with Corinthian pilas- ters, are placed vases upon the entablature. In front of the portico are lions in cast iron, from the mouth of which water issues. The whole front bears strong marks of the Revolution of 1830. Within, there is an octagonal court ; and, beyond this, an oblong one with the buildings of the college, forming the w estern side. These are now tenanted by various officers and persons connected with the Institute. In the first court a staircase, on the western side, leads to the public rooms of the Institute; and a door, on the same side, opens into the corridor of the hall where the public sittings of the Institute are held. In the vestibules are the statues in marble of seve- ral of the great men of France, who have honoured the coun- try by the force of their intellect : d'Alembert, Montaigne, Mole, Montesquieu, Rollin, Montausier, Moliere, Corneille, Lafontaihe, Poussin, Racine, and Pascal. The Grand Hall is fitted up with benches forming a semicircle, in front of which are the seats and bureaux of the president, secretaries, etc. The recesses formed by the ancient chapels of the church are now used as galleries. The dome is richly ornamented, and the effect of the whole is good. The Hall is also adorned with marble statues of Bossuet, Descartes, Fenelon, and Sully. A door on the eastern side of the court leads to the Bibliotheque Mazarine by a handsome staircase. Cardinal Mazarin pos- sessed two libraries, which had been formed by the celebrated Gabriel Naude, who collected the most scarce and curious books in France and foreign countries. During his life time he gave to his newly-founded college the books which he va- lued the least, and bequeathed the remainder to it at his death. It consisted of 40,000 volumes, which, in 1652, w r ere sold by a decree of the Parlement. To repair this loss, Naude, aided by Lapoterie, bought up again a great number of the works 360 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. which had fallen into the hands of booksellers and private in- dividuals. To these were added the library of Descordes, and that of Naude, who died in 1655. All these works, added to the books possessed by the college, formed the Bibliotheque Mazarine. The manuscripts were removed to the king's library, but others have since been acquired ; and the collec- tion, at present, consists of about 100,000 printed volumes, and 4,500 manuscripts. The principal room which it occu- pies is adorned with many good marble busts, of which some are antiques, and several vases. It possesses a very fine ter- restrial globe of copper, executed by the brothers Bergwin, under the direction of Louis XVI., for the dauphin. It is open to the public daily, except Sundays and festivals, from 10 to 4: the vacation is from August 15 to October 1. The Biblio- theque de VInstitut is approached by a staircase from the se- cond court. It is peculiarly rich in all scientific works, both national and foreign, and contains complete series of nearly all the transactions and periodical publications of the scientific societies of the world. The number of volumes are about 80,000, and they occupy along wainscoted room, ornamented with carved work, at the extremity of which is a justly-cele- brated statue of Voltaire, in marble, by Pigalle, the expense of which was defrayed by a subscription, in which even so- vereigns were eager to join. On each side is a gallery. Into this library no stranger is admitted without an introduction by a member, which it is easy to obtain. The public are ad- mitted to see the buildings, on applying at the door. Opposite to this is the Pont des Arts. — This elegant bridge, for foot-passengers only, takes its name from the Louvre, which, at the time When the bridge was constructed, was called Palais des Arts. It rests upon very narrow piers, and is composed of nine cast- iron arches, while the floor, formed of wood, is elevated se- veral feet above the level of the street, and extends in a straight line from one bank of the river to the other. At regular dis- tances are small pillars, supporting lamps. This bridge, the first built of iron in Paris, was erected at the expense of a company, who are to derive a toll of one sous each person, for a certain number of years. The chord of the arches is 56 feet, the length is 516, and the breadth 30. It was built by MM. de Cessac and Dillon, and* finished, in 1804, at a cost of 900,000 fr. ECOLE R0YALE DES BEAUX ARTS. 361 The stranger now enters on the finest of the Parisian quays, the Quai Voltaire, and, turning into the rue des Petits Augus- tins, arrives at the Ecole Royale des Beaux Arts. — This school, divided into two sections, one of painting and sculpture, the other of architecture, distributes annual prizes to its pupils, who are instructed by a large body of professors. Those who gain the grand prize given by the Academie des Beaux Arts, on certain conditions, are sent to Rome to study there for three years at the expense of the Government. The students are instructed in all the various branches of their profession, and an exhi- bition of their works, as well as of those sent by the students from Rome, takes place every year. The buildings of the ancient convent of the Petits Augustins were granted to this school in 1816. Here, during the Revolution, M. Alexandre Lenoir had succeeded in forming a very extensive museum of all the monuments of the middle ages, and other objects of art, which could be rescued from the mobs, that all over France attacked and pillaged the churches, monasteries, and chateaux. Ry dint of great perseverance and unwearied en- thusiasm, that gentleman formed what was thus appropriately called the Musee des Monuments Frangais, and the Govern- ment granted the buildings of the Petits Augustins for that purpose. In 1816, however, a well-meaning but short-sighted policy, on the part of the existing government, decreed that the monuments of the museum should be replaced in the churches from whence they had been taken, or restored to their original owners. The first part of the decree was car- ried into effect, as it was intended ; and, among other churches, St. Denis received back again the treasures that had been taken from it, and had been so fortunately rescued by a pa- triotic individual. But the monuments, etc., formerly belong- ing to private families, in few instances found their right owners: they were again pillaged by whoever liked to lay hands on them, and a very large proportion are for ever lost to the country. In 1820, a new edifice was begun in the garden, but was not carried on with much rapidity till after 1830, when the arts received a new impulse from the public spirit of the monarch and the government ; and since that time it has been most successfully finished by M. Duban. This splendid edifice consists of an oblong court paved with the finest marbles, surrounded by buildings of three storevs 31 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT* in height, of the Tuscan order surmounted by the Ionic, and having the upper storey of the style of the Renaissance. The interior and three of the outer sides are comparatively plain, but the eastern external front is adorned with a fine series of arcades, and richly-sculptured medallions containing the por- traits of celebrated masters. A marble court in front of this facade has two regular piles of building on the southern and northern sides, the latter masking part of the ancient con- vent ; and on the eastern side is erected, standing perfectly detached, the beautiful side of one of the courts of the Chateau de GaiHon, erected by Cardinal d'Amboise; and which, hav- ing been preserved by M. Lenoir, has been fortunately suffered to remain here, almost alone of all the other monuments. A third court of entrance is forming to the east of this elegant monument: two galleries extend along its northern and southern sides, at the eastern extremity of the former of which is the chapel of the monastery, which has been completely restored, and at the same time greatly improved. The entrance of this chapel has been formed by a fine portal from the Chateau d'Anet, built by Henry II. for Diana of Poitiers, which has been transported hither and most judiciously repaired. The interior of the chapel, which is not yet finished, has a beau- tiful screen in stone and marble: the ceilings are painted and gilt, and a side chapel has been formed of much beauty and taste. The interior of the main building is occupied by spa- cious galleries for museums, and rooms for the lectures of the professors, for exhibitions, etc. The principal staircase is entirely encrusted with marble, and great sumptuousness of ornament is displayed throughout the whole building. Here is to be placed the gallery of architecture, formerly kept at the palace of the Institute, which contains models of the finest buildings of Egypt, India, Greece, and Italy, besides frag- ments, or copies of fragments, of ancient classic architecture. The chapel is intended to contain copies of the paintings of Michael Angelo, and casts from Italian models. In the middle of the second court before the principal front is a very curious stone basin, brought from the abbey of St. Denis. It consists of a flat circular dish 12 feet in diameter, said to be of a single piece of stone, the brim being surrounded with the heads of divinities and allegorical personages, each furnished with a spout for the carrying off water. Some letters inscribed on it' Show it to be a production of the 13th century. This mag- MARCHE ST. GERMAIN. 363 nificent building, though externally finished, will require a considerable length of time for the completion ot its internal arrangements: it will then be one of the most beautiful mo- numents of the age. For permission to see the interior, appli- cation must be made, by letter, to M* h Directeur des Bail- ments et Travaux Publics, au Ministere de llnteneur, No. 122, rue de Grenelh. From this palace the stranger must return to the Quai Voltaire, where he will find the Pont du Carrousel, a most elegant bridge of three iron arches resting upon stone piers, and the quays on either side. It was built by M. Palonceau, in 1834. On this quay, at No. 5, is the hotel once tenanted by Baron Denon, the celebrated Egyptian traveller. At No. 1, rue de Beaune, on this quay, is an hotel in which Voltaire resided for some time prev ious to his death, and where he died. His nephew, M. de Villette, kept his apartment closed for some time afterwards ; and Mad. de Montmorency, the next proprietor of the house, did the same till her death: so that it remained closed for forty-seven years. The story of certain MSS. having been found here and burnt by order of Government, is altogether a fable ; though it is equally true that Voltaire's cane was sold for 3000 francs. This quay is celebrated for the shops of dealers in prints, books, and arti- cles of vertu: and the stranger may find here an agreeable and generally an instructive lounge. ELEVENTH ARRONBISSEMENT. Near the boundaries of the eleventh arrondissement, to the north-west, lies the Marche St. Germain, built on the spot originally devoted to the Foire St. Germain. It is the most commodious in Paris ; and was commenced in 1811, under the direction of Blondel. Its architecture is plain and substantial, and its plan is such as to afford every possible advantage of light and air. The plan of the Marche St. Germain is a parallelogram, 276 feet in length by 225 in breadth. Each of the four fronts has five entrances, closed by iron gates. In the galleries, are nearly four hundred stalls, arranged in four rows, with a free and commodious circulation on every side. To the south of the 364 ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. principal structure, a building appropriated to butchers is in the same style. At the bottom of the vestibule, is a niche with a statue of Plenty, by Milhomme, raised on a socle adorned with a lion's head, from which water falls into a basin. A guard-house, bureaux for the inspectors, and other dependen- cies have been constructed. In the centre is a fountain which formerly stood in the Place St. Sulpice, consisting of a square mass in the form of an antique tomb, each front of which is surmounted by a pediment. It is ornamented with four bas- reliefs in marble. On two sides are marble shells, forming the upper part of a vase, from whence the water falls into large shells, where it is divided into six small streams, and descends into square basins. A considerable sale of pigeons and other birds takes place here every Sunday morning. From the Marche St. Germain the visitor will proceed to St. Sulpice, parish church of the eleventh arrondissement. — This splendid structure was begun in 1655, when the first stone was laid by Anne of Austria, according to the designs of Levau. The works were carried on successively by Gittard and Oppenhard ; but they languished till 1718 for want of funds. The rector of the parish, however, Languet de Gergy, exerted himself so much that in 1742 a kind of lottery was established, and sufficient money was gained by it for the completion of the building. Servandoni finished the magni- ficent portico and front in 1745 : but the towers were raised and altered, the southern one by Maclaurin, in 1749, and the northern one by Chalgrin in 1777. The portico is composed of a range of Doric columns 40 feet in height, and is ap- proached by a flight of steps. It supports a gallery and co- lonnade of the Ionic order, with columns 38 feet in height : above the whole was a pediment, which, being destroyed by lightning in 1779, was replaced by a balustrade. The height of the northern tower is 210 feet : on it is the telegraph that corresponds with Strasburg, while on the southern one is that for Italy. Three bells of 12,500, 8,500, and 1800 pounds' weight were placed in the north lower in 1824. At the foot of the towers are two chapels adorned with nine Corinthian columns; one destined for a baptistery, the other as a sanc- tuary for the viaticum. The portico of the south, distin- guished by two rows of columns of the Doric and Ionic orders, is ornamented with statues of St. John and St. Joseph ; that of the north presents the Composite and Corinthian orders, and ST. SULPICE. 365 has statues of St. Peter and St. Paul. The curved buttresses springing from the mass of the side aisles of the edifice to support the centre and roof are to be remarked, though they do not much improve the appearance of the church. The plan of the building is cruciform ; its total length 432 feet, its width 174 feet, and its height 99 feet. An aisle surrounds both nave and choir, and chapels are placed in it correspond- ing to each arcade. The columns and pilasters are all of the Corinthian order, and, with every part of the edifice, are de- signed and executed with very remarkable boldness and beauty of workmanship. The vaulted roof of the church is elaborately ornamented, particularly in the choir, where the scroll work of the transverse bands is exceedingly elegant. At the entrance of the nave are two shells of the largest fn- dachna gigas known, resting upon curious rock work in marble, executed by Pigalle : they were given to Francis I. by the Republic of Venice. The pulpit will attract the atten- tion of the visitor, being totally supported by two flights of steps, and ornamented with figures of Faith, Hope, and Cha- rity. The organ gallery is supported by magnificent Compo- site columns. The organ, built by Clicquot, is highly orna- mented with carved work, presenting no fewer than seven- teen figures playing on musical instruments or supporting cornucopia?, and is the finest in appearance of any in the ca- pital. On the pavement of the transept is traced a meridian line. The rays of the sun passing by an opening in a tin plate fixed in the southern window of the transept, form upon the pavement a luminous globe, about 10% inches in diameter, the movement of which is from west to east. It is noon when this globe is equally divided by the meridian. At the extre- mity of this line is an obelisk of white marble, upon which it is prolonged. The vaulting of the cross contains four good paintings of saints in circular compartments ; and immedi- ately underneath, at the entrance of the choir, stands the high altar, decorated with a profusion of splendidly gilt ornaments, and separated from the nave by a balustrade of bronze and marble. Behind the choir is an elliptical Lady Chapel com- posed entirely of marble ; it has a double dome, the upper one of which is painted in fresco by Lemoine. The altar is surmounted by fine Composite columns of grey marble with gilt capitals, and by a recess lighted from above, in which is a marble statue of the Yirgin bearing the Saviour, by Pigalle. 31. 366 ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT . Four upright compartments in this chapel contain good paint- ings of scenes taken from the Virgin's life. Of the other cha- pels in this church, one in the south aisle, dedicated to St Boch, contains some frescos by Abel de Pujol: and another has a fine monument to Dr. Languet de Gergy. On a pier of the nave, by the side of the pulpit, is a good picture of the Virgin and Saviour, of one of the late Italian schools. In a chapel of the north aisle of the choir is the original design of the roof of the Lady Chapel, forming an oval oil painting, which is much better than the roof itself ; and in the chapel of St. Charles Borromeo adjoining is a curious but neglected pic- ture of a saint in contemplation with a scull and book lying before him, probably by Moise Valentin. In the north aisle of the nave is the chapel of the Trinity, containing some very beautiful wainscoting, which would be appropriately applied to all the other chapels of this church. In the chapel of St. Michael the picture in front of the altar is said to contain a portrait of Louis XVII. in the figure of the child conducted by a guardian angel. Underneath the church are very extensive vaults; some of them tenanted by booksellers. The towers may be ascended, and the upper gallery is worth visiting. When Servandoni completed the structure of St. Sulpice, his intention was to form a large place in front of it, and to erect two fountains in a line with the towers. The place was formed in 1754: but no fountain was erected till the time of Napoleon, when, at the peace of Amiens, that which is now in the Marche St. Germain was fixed in the middle of the Place St. Sulpice. The place is not yet completed. On the southern side stands the Seminaire de St. Sulpice, a large plain build- ing, capable of accommodating, with its dependencies at Issy, 300 students. It was commenced in 1820 : but the society was founded in 1641. Near this place to the west, at No. 39, rue du Cherehe Midi, is the Hotel de Toulouse, a military depot, where all Court-martials of the 1st division are held. In the rue Garanciere is a fine hotel, formerly belonging to the Duchess of Savoy. The front is adorned with a range of Ionic pilasters, having, instead of volutes, boldly projecting rams' heads. It is now the mairie of the lltharrondissemenl. On the Place de l'Odeon, at the east end of the ruede Vau- girard, is the Theatre de l'Odeon. (See Theatres. ) Palace oe she Luxembourg, or, qf the Chamber ot? PALACE OF THE LUXEMBOURG. 367 Peers. (1)— 4Jpon the site of this palace Robert de Harlay de Sancy erecled a large house, in the midst of gardens, about the middle of the 16th century. This mansion was purchased and enlarged in 1583, by the Duke d'Epinay Luxembourg, who likewise added to it several pieces of ground contiguous. The Hotel de Luxembourg was bought by Mary de Medicis in 1612, for 90,000 francs, and the present palace built, after the designs of Jacques Desbrosses, upon the model of the Pitti palace, at Florence, the usual residence of the grand dukes of Tuscany. It w r as called by her name, though it never lost its original appellation ; but, on being bequeathed to Gaston de France, Duke of Orleans, her second son, it assumed the name of Palais Orleans, which it retained till the Revolution. It was afterwards ceded, for the sum of 500,000 livres, to Anne Marie Louise d'Orleans, Duchess de Montpensier ; and in J 672 became the property of Elizabeth d'Orleans, Duchess de Guise and d'Alencon, who, in 1694, sold it to Louis XIV. It was afterwards inhabited by the Duchess of Brunswick, and by Madame d'Orleans, queen-dowager of Spain, after wkose death Louis XVI. gave it to his brother, afterwards Louis XYIil., who occupied it till June 1791, when he quitted France. During the first years of the Revolution it was con- verted into a prison, and suffered every sort of degradation. In 1795 it became the place of the sittings of the Directory, and was then called Palais du Directoire. In 1798, the building was thoroughly repaired, and the entire front scraped. When Bonaparte assumed power, this palace was at first de- voted to the sittings of the consuls, and received the name of Palais du Consulat, and, shortly after, that of Palais duSenat Conservateur. This senate held its sittings there till 1814, the period when it was dissolved, and the Chamber of Peers created. Since that time a marble tablet, placed over the principal entrance, has announced that the palace of the Lux- embourg has taken the appellation of Palais de la Chambre des Pairs. The edifice is remarkable for the beauty of its proportions, and the character of strength and solidity which it at the same time possesses. The court forms a parallelo- gram of 360 feet, by 300. The front towards the rue de Vau- girard consists of two large pavilions, connected togeyier by (i) For a more detailed account of this palace, and for some in- teresting anecdotes connected with it, see History of Paris, 3 vols. 8vo. A. and W. Galignani and Go, 368 eleventh arrondissfjipnt. terraces supported by open galleries, in the centre of which rises an elegant cupola, surrounded with statutes. This front is connected with the principal pile of building, by two wings one storey high. Four large square pavilions, the roofs of which rise to a point, stand at the corners of the main building, which is only two storeys high. At the second storey, the building forms a recess upon a terrace which extends from the pavilions at the angles to that of the centre. The lower storey is decorated with pilasters of the Tuscan order, the second with Doric, and the third with Ionic pilasters. The divisions of the masonry are deeply channelled in the rustic style through- out; and the garden front is ornamented with a clock, sup- ported by large figures. Great additions are now making to this part of the palace to replace a temporary building erected for the Court of Peers, on occasion of the trials of political pri- soners in 1835 and 1836, and the garden front will be com- pletely altered. The grand staircase was removed by Chal- grin from the central pavilion ; and a new approach to the Chamber of Peers, then the hall of the Senate, was erected in the right wing. This staircase is ornamented with a fine range of columns, between which are trophies and statues. On entering the apartments belonging to the service of the Chamber of Peers, the visitor passes through a guard-cham- ber, a waiting-room, and a messenger's-room, into the Salle de Reunion, a handsome room, ornamented with a large allego- rical painting of most dubious signification, since the princi- pal figure in it has been successively Napoleon, Louis XVIII. , and the genius of France, which it at present remains. The Salle des Minis tres adjoins this room, but is notshown. The Salle des Seances is semicircular, and is only 77 feet in diame- ter ; it is far too small for its purpose, and is both dark and inconvenient. Anew hall, on a much more commodious and magnificent scale, is shortly to be commenced, and will occupy the principal part of the additions to the garden front. In the middle of the axis of the present semicircular room is a recess, in which are placed the seats of the president and secretaries. Above the president's seat [is a demi-cupola ornamented in caissons. The peers' chairs, arranged as in an amphitheatre, occupy^ the area in front of the president. The peer who ad- dresses the assembly takes his station below the president's desk. Round this recess are arranged a great number of Austrian flags taken at Ulm and other places, which were PALACE OF THE LUXEMBOURG. 369 preserved during the Restoration, and were brought to light soon after the Revolution of 1830. The Salle du Trone is richly decorated. In the middle of the ceiling is represented Henry IV. in a car, conducted by Victory, from the pencil of Barlhelemy. The other paintings are by Lesueur, except two, representing Peace and War, by Callet. There are four other rooms, used for the bureaux, or committees, of the cham- ber. In one of them is the library. Another (in the pavilion on the left towards the garden) is ornamented with hangings and furniture of beautiful painted cloth, of the manufacture of Vauchelet. There are several other rooms attached to the Chamber of Peers on this storey, but they are not usually shown to strangers. The whole of the interior arrangements connected with the Chamber of Peers will be changed by the new buildings now in process of erection. On the ground floor is the chapel, a plain room, with a monument to Fenelon. Ad- joining is the Chambre d coucher de Marie de Medicis, a splen- did apartment, decorated in the most sumptuous style of those times. The panels are all richly gilt and painted in com- partments, by Nicholas Poussin. The centre of the ceiling is by Rubens, and eight square compartments which it contains by Philippe de Champagne. The scroll work that covers the walls is exceedingly delicate and beautiful. At the Revolu- tion the panelling and paintings were all taken down and concealed : they were replaced after the Restoration. The vi- sitor should by no means omit to ask for this apartment. In the buildings on the eastern side of the court is the gallery of paintings, formed by order of Marie de Medicis, and at first composed of twenty-four large pictures, by Rubens, repre- senting the allegorical history of that queen. It was after- wards augmented by several pictures which belonged to the queen-dowager of Spain, and by others from the king s cabi- net. The gallery was long neglected, and about the year 1780, the paintings were removed to form the museum of the Louvre. (1) The pictures were brought back to the Luxembourg when the victories of Napoleon had filled the Louvre with the finest works of art in Europe, but were a^ain taken away to the latter palace in 1815. The gallery is now appropriated to the reception of the finest works of living artists, purchased (i) Among them, besides the History of Mary de Medicis, were the History of St, Bruno, by Lesueur ; and the sea-ports of Vernet and Joseph Hue. 370 ELEVENTH AURONDISSEMENT. by the Government. Among them those of Delaroche, Ho- race Vernet, Biard, Court, Deveria, Granet, Pierre, Guerin, Le Tiers, Rioult, and Roqueplan, are particularly worthy of admiration. Near the entrance of the gallery is a fine group of Cupid and Psyche, by Delaistre. The ceiling of the gallery presents the signs of the Zodiac in twelve pictures, by Jor- daens, and the Rising of Aurora, by Callet. In the rotunda, to which the gallery leads, is the celebrated Bathing Nymph, by Julien. Beyond the rotunda, a gallery leads to four rooms, containing pictures and sculpture, from which a fine view is obtained of the grand staircase of the Chamber of Peers. The apartments of this palace can be visited every day except Mon- day, at the hours when the Chamber of Peers is not sitting, and the Gallery of Paintings on the same days, from 10 to 41 The gallery is open to the public on Sundays. The garden Was first planted by Besbrosses, at the time of the erection of the palace. In 1782, the finest trees were cut down, with the in- tention of building cafes, ball-rooms, etc., and establishing a fair. The ground thus cleared remained waste for nearly thirty years, but the fai r was never established. In 1795, the fine avenue which leads from the palace to the Observatory Was commenced, and in 1801, the ground laid waste in 1782 was again planted. The flower-garden, in front of the palace, with a large piece of water in the middle, is encircled with two terraces, ornamented on their borders with vases, and terminated at the extremities by balustrades in stone, decorated with two groups in marble representing wrestlers, and four small figures supporting vases, in which geraniums flourish du- ring the summer. The sloping banks of the terraces are planted with choice shrubs and flowers, including almost every known species of the rose. A great number of statues, most of which bear marks of revolutionary fury, embellish different parts of the garden, but they are not ot sufficient merit to deserve a particular description. On the right is a fine and extensive plantation of lofty trees, intersected by walks; and on the left is a smaller plantation on an inclined plane, which commands a view of the whole garden. From the flower-garden ex- tends a long avenue, the entrance to which is ornamented with two white marble lions, copied from the antique, and in the distance is seen the front of the observatory. The avenue is bounded by a handsome iron railing, and lodges. On the right of it is an immense nursery-ground, called the Prpinwre LE PETIT LUXEMBOURG. 371 du Luxembourg, and on the left a large piece of ground of a triangular form, which serves as a Botanical Garden to the Ecole de Medecine. Rows of orange-trees add to the beauty of this delightful spot during the summer. Seven gales afford access to the garden, which is open to the public from day- break to dusk. In the plantation to the right is a cafe, which is much frequented for breakfasts during the summer. To the west is Le Petit Luxembourg. — This palace or hotel, which is a dependence of the palace of the Luxembourg, was commenced about the year 1629, by order of Cardinal Richelieu, who resided in it whilst the Palais Royal was building. When the cardinal went to his new palace, he gave the Petit Luxem- bourg to his niece, the Duchess d'Aiguillon. It passed by descent to Henry Jules de Bourbon Conde, after whose death, Anne, princess palatine of Bavaria, occupied it, and made considerable repairs and additions to it. Under the Directory, four of the directors occupied the Petit Luxembourg, whilst the fifth dwelt in the palace. Bonaparte resided here six months before he took up his abode at the Tuileries. It is now the residence of the Chancellor of France, as President of the Chamber of Peers, and contains some apartments which were lately used as a temporary place of confinement for persons waiting to be tried for political offences by the Court of Peers. The minislers of Charles X. were confined here in 1830. Close by the gate of the Luxembourg Gardens, in the rue de Fleurus, is the small Theatre da Luxembourg. (See Theatres.) At No. 70, rue de Vaugirard, is the Convent des Dames Car- melites, formerly a monastery of Carmelite brethren. The buildings of part of the ancient religious house, with the cha- pel, are still appropriated to sacred purposes ; the rest are oc- cupied by various individuals. The chapel is of the Tuscan order, and is cruciform in its plan ; but presents nothing re- markable in its external appearance. Within, the dome, painted by Flamel, is worthy of observation ; and the chancel, ornamented with pillars of black marble, having gilt basesand capitals, is very handsome. In front of the altar is an ancient bas-relief in white marble representing the Last Supper. The pictures are not very remarkable. This convent was the spot where the massacres began in Paris, on the second and third of September, Hundreds of priests, w h o had been imprisoned 372 ELEVENTH ARRONMSSEMENT. here, were murdered. An annual service is performed for them in the church on the anniversary of the massacre. It was in this convent that the famous Eau de Metisse and the Blanc des Carmes were formerly manufactured. At the corner of the rue du Regard is the Fontaine de Leda, ereeted in 1806 by Bralle, ornamented with a bas-relief, by Yallois, representing Leda on the banks of the Eurotas, ca- ressing Jupiter, under the form of a swan. At the feet of Leda, Cupid is seen drawing an arrow from his quiver. The water flows into a basin from the beak of the swan, and the pilasters are adorned with dolphins, one encircling a trident, the other a rudder. The visitor may proceed from this spot by (he rues Notre Dame des Champs and du Mont Parnasse, to the Boulevard and Cemetery of the same name. Cemetery du Mont Parnasse. — This cemetery, which was opened on the 25 th of July, 1824, is situated near the Barriere du Mont Parnasse, in the midst of the plaine de Mont Rouge. Its extent is about 30 square acres, and it is sur- rounded with a lofty wall. The entrance is by the Boulevard du Mont Parnasse, and consists of two plain pavilions. The capitals of the piers upon which the gates are hung are in the form of tombs, ornamented with funereal emblems. In the centre is a circular road planted with trees, from which four roads, also planted with trees, branch off in opposite directions. The cemetery is intersected by other walks and paths in straight lines. From the recent date of this burial- ground, the number of elegant monuments is but small. The following are those most entitled to notice: — Alexandre Desenne, a distinguished artist, a lofty tomb of white marble, surmounted by a bust of the deceased in bronze ; Deseine, a celebrated statuary ; the Marquis d'Aguesseau, the last of that illustrious family ; the Duchess de Gesvres, the last of the family of the Connetable Duguesclin, a handsome tomb, surmounted by a cross ; the Count de Montmorency Laval, a beautiful monument, crowned with a cross and an urn ; the Baron Dupin ; two fine marble columns, each surmounted by an urn, erected by the pupils of the Polytechnic School to the memory of two of their comrades ; and the Baron de Hooke, a neat obelisk. This cemetery likewise contains the graves of several persons condemned for political offences, with those of several modern republicans ; and of Fieschi, Pepin, and HOTEL DE VENDOME. 373 Morey, who conspired against the life of Louis Philippe in 1835, as well as of Alibaud, who repeated the same crime in 1836. It is the least interesting of the cemeteries. On the Boulevard du Mont Parnasse the visitor will find the Hotel de Montmorency Laval, No. 29, formerly celebrated for the fetes given there by the noble family whose name it bears. It is now the large and well-conducted Protestant school of M. Houseal. On the opposite side of the Boulevard are the Hermitage, the Grande Chaumiere, etc., celebrated gardens for public amusements in the summer. (See Theatres, etc.) Near the latter stands a large Marche aux Fourrages. Returning by the southern gate of the garden of the Luxem- bourg, the visitor will find, at 46, rue d'Enfer, the entrance into the Jardin Botanique de I'Ecole de Medecine. The medicinal plants that will bear exposure to the climate of France are here cultivated, as well as others. The whole is arranged according to the natural order ; and by each plant is placed a ticket bearing its names in the systems of Linnaeus and Jussicu. It is open to the public every day from 6 to 10 in the morning, and from 3 to 7 in the afternoon, except in winter, when the hours of admission and of closing depend upon the light. Lower dow n in the rue d'Enfer, at No. 34, is the Hotel de Vendome, now used as the Ecole des Mines. — This magnificent hotel was built in 1707, by a society of Car- thusian monks ; and, being afterwards purchased by the Duchess de Vendome, was called by her name. The project of the institution to which it is now appropriated originated with Cardinal de Fleury; and it was commenced in 1783. The professors and directors of the school reside in the house ; and on the first floor is arranged the magnificent mineralogical collection of France, with the general collection formed by the Abbe Hauy, and brought thither from the Hotel des Monnaies. This mineral museum occupies 7 rooms; in the 1st, is an economical collection of polished stones for useful and ornamental purposes ; round each of the others, upright cases are placed, containing, in separate collections, the mi- nerals of each department of France. In the middle of these rooms is the splendid collection of all known minerals by Hauy, with all the crystals of any mineral arranged at the head of its class and subdivision, in wooden specimens. The 32 374 ELEVENTH ARUONOISSEMENT. geological collection of the Paris basin, formed by Messrs. Cuvier and Brongniart, for their work on the geology of that district, is also arranged here ; as well as a small collection of British geological specimens; one to illustrate the external characters of minerals ; and a series of living and fossil eon- chology. To each specimen in all these collections its de- scription and locality are attached by a small ticket, so as in some degree to supersede the use of a catalogue. Fresh ad- ditions are made to this museum almost daily. The museum is open to the public from 11 to 3 on Mondays and Thursdays; but strangers are admitted every day on producing their pass- ports, though they cannot study there on any day but the two days before-mentioned, without leave from the director. At the top of the rue de la Harpe is the Place St. Michel, where a gate of the same name formerly stood. On one side is a fountain, consisting of a large niche, flanked with Doric columns supporting a pediment, and bearing an inscription by Santeuil, alluding to the neighbourhood of the colleges, Hoc sub monle suos reserat sapienlia fontes Ne tamen banc puri respue fontis aquam. Near this is the Maison de Refuge pour les Jeunes Prisonniers, 11, rue des Gres St. Jacques. — This institution, which is establish- ed in the ancient convent des Jacobins, is destined to reclaim young offenders condemned to corporeal punishment, who are allowed to enter before their sentence has expired. They receive elementary instruction, are taught the principles of religion, and are habituated to labour. Dhis useful establish- ment is in part supported by voluntary contribution, but will soon be transferred to the Prison de la Roquette. (See Prisons.) Nearly half-way down this street is No. 94, the College Royal de St. Louis. — A college was founded on this spot as early as 1280, by Raoul d'Harcourt, canon of Notre Dame, from whom it took the name of College dollar- court. It was rebuilt in 1675, and some part of the ancient structure still exists. The construction of the principal' 'mass of the building was begun in 1814, and the college opened in 1820. The court is spacious, and at the bottom is the chapel. On the other three sides are buildings 4 storeys high, having galleries on the ground-floor. COLLEGE DE LA SOKBONNE. 375 Opposite the College de St. Louis is an old gateway, once the entrance to the College de Bayeux, founded in 1308. The gateway, bearing an inscription to that effect, is probably of the same date. Within the court a few remains of the old college are still to be seen, and a doorway of the end of the 15th century. A small street leads from the rue de la Harpe, nearly op- posite the College de St. Louis, to the College de la Sorbonne, on the place known by the same name, a celebrated school founded by Robert Sorbon, in 1253. The object of this establishment was to form a so- ciety of ecclesiastics, who, living in common, might devote themselves exclusively to gratuitous study and teaching. The fame of this institution, which became the head of the Univer- sity of Paris, and of the Gallican church in theological autho- rity, is too well known and is too much mixed up with the history of France to need any farther allusion. The College du Pies sis became absorbed in it; and in 1829, Cardinal Richelieu, who was one of its graduates, laid the first stone of the new buildings as they now exist. The church, begun in 1635, was not finished till 1659, and the whole was erected after the designs of Lemercier. The church is cruciform, of the Corinthian order, with chapels leading on each side from the nave and choir, and surmounted by a dome of very fine proportions. The pilasters that surround the dome are of the Composite order ; small canopied lucames stud its surface; and it is crowned by a balcony, cupola, and cross. Towards the street is a pedimented front of two storeys, with Corin- thian and Composite columns, while towards the court of the college, the northern transept is terminated by a fine Corin- thian portico of bold proportions. The hiterior is now per- fectly plain, with the exception of the vault of the dome, which is painted by Philippe de Champagne, and represents the fathers of the Latin church. On the key-stones of the arches and in the stained glass of some of the windows are the arms of Cardinal de Richelieu ; and in the southern transept is his celebrated tomb, the chef d'eeuvre of Girardon, and one of the finest pieces of sculpture of the 17th century. The sta- tue of the cardinal, in a reclining posture, is sustained by- Religion, holding the book which he composed in her defence. Near her are two genii, who support the arms of the cardinal. At the opposite extremity is a woman in tears, who represents Science deploring the loss of her protector. Few buildings in 376 ELEVENTH AKRONDISSEMKNT. Paris suffered more during the Revolution than the church of the Sorbonne, and such was its state of decay that part of the roof had fallen in, when Napoleon ordered such repairs to be executed as were necessary to preserve it from total ruin. After the Restoration it was used as a lecture-room of the Law-school ; but, in 1825, it was restored to divine worship. The college forms a large court, sombre, but grand, though almost totally devoid of any architectural ornament. The professors have fine suites of apartments here, but the lecture- rooms are not sufficiently large. Service is performed in the church daily, at an early hour ; but it is shown by the porter at any time for a small gratification. At the corner of the rue de la Sorbonne was, till lately, the chapel of the College de Cluny y formerly the atelier of David, the painter. At the bottom of this street is the Hotel de Cluny, in the rue des Mathurins, certainly one of the finest remains of the ancient mansions of Paris of the 16th century. It was erected in 1505, by Jacques d'Am- boise, Abbot of Gluny, on part of the ruins of the Palais des Thermes. The turrets and richly ornamented lucarne win- dows are the striking features of the exterior of this remark- able building. Within, the chapel, the vault of which centres on a single column, is a fine specimen of all that was good in the architecture of the period ; and the apartments, which however, do not remain in their primitive state, attest, by their arrangement, the nobility of their former occupants. After passing through the hands of many tenants, this most interesting mansion has at length fallen into the hands of a gentleman, whose taste for the fine arts and whose patriotic enthusiasm for the antiquities of his country are only equalled by his learning and his urbanity. He has formed here a most valuable collection of objects of art of the middle ages, sacred as well as civil and military ; and has arranged the whole in the most admirable chronological order. M. du Sommerard has also written a learned essay upon this hotel, which will not only convey the fullest information upon the subject, but will furnish much rare and valuable instruction on the anti- quities of France, comprised in the period known by the name of the Renaissance. From its moderate price, 5 fr., this ex- cellent work, " Notice sur V Hotel de Cluny," (1) may be ea- ( i ) It may be had of F. Didot, or of A. and W. Galignani and Go. Paris. t»ALAIS DEg THEUMES. 377 gily procured by any one, to whom an inspection of tliis house and its museum would be really interesting ; and upon proper application being made to the learned author, permission is readily granted of visiting the museum, every Wednesday, at am hour indicated at the time. It will be readily conceived that this is by no means a common favour ; and those who are happy enough to procure it will know how to give it a due appreciation. The collection itself has not a rival in Fiiance, except at the I^ouvre. Behind the Sorbonne, in the rue St. Jacques, are the re- ma ints of the church of St. Benoit, now converted into the Theatre du Pantheon. (See Theatres.) The only remaining parts of any interest are a turret at the western end, and a few fragments of sculptured foliage of the 15th century. At No. 53, rue de la Harpe, and in the immediate vieinily of the Hotel de Cluny, stand the august remains of the Palais des Thermes, once the residence of the Emperor Julian and the Roman authorities in Gaul, as well as of the kings of the first and second races. A palace existed here long before the time of the Emperor Julian : it is mentioned by Ammianus Marcellinus, in 360, and by Gregory of Tours. A deed of 1138 styles it by the name it now bears, and re- cent discoveries leave no doubt of these remains being part of the residence of the emperors. It has been found that the palace was bounded, towards the east, by the R.oman road, now the rue St. Jaequtes. which, at the river side, was guarded by a strong tower, yljfc gardens of the palace extended west- ward as far as the Abvey of St. Germain des Pies, which was built at the south west corner of the enclosing walls; and a straight line, running from the abbey to the river, deter- mined the western boundary of the garden, and was also ter- minated by a tower. On the side of the hill where the Pan- theon now stands, near the Place St. Michel, was an amphi- theatre. An aqueduct from Arcueil, where two arches of it are still standing, has been traced under the Palais des Thermes, and was built, it is supposed, for the use of the royal residence. The only perfect part of this palace re- maining, is a hall, presenting in its plan two contiguous parallelograms, fcf^lning together a single room. The largest is sixty-two feet in length by forty-two in breadth, and the smallest is thirty feet by eighteen. The semicircularly formed 32. 378 ELEVENTH ARROXMSSEMENT. vault which covers this hall is forty-two feet above the ground; it is substantially built, and above it was, for a great num- ber of years, a thick bed of mould, cultivated as a garden, and planted with trees. The architecture of this hall is plain and majestic. The walls are decorated with three grand ar- cades, of which that in the centre is the most lofty. In the wall to the south, the central arcade presents the form of a large semi-circular recess, in w hich, as well as in the lateral arcades, some holes are pierced, which lead to the presump- tion that they served for the introduction of water to the baths. The vaulting of the roof rests upon consoles, which re- present the sterns of ships: in one some human figures may be distinguished. These sterns, the symbols of water, may pro- bably have served to characterise a place destined for baths. The masonry of this hall is composed of alternate rows of squared stones and bricks, covered in some places by a coat of stucco four or five inches thick. A fine light enters by a cir- cular-headed window in front of the entrance above the great recess, and precisely under the arch of the vaulting. Be- neath this hall are vaulted apartments, which extend under most of the neighbouring houses ; and from north to south, along the floor of those under the hall, runs the aqueduct, about two feet wide and one and a half deep, lined with ce- ment. One of the halls which adjoined that now covered may still be clearly traced to the west, and part of another is concealed in a house to the south. The subterranean apart- ment, where the stoves for heating the baths are supposed to have been placed, is seen near the street, and two narrow staircases in good preservation lead into it: behind it a well- vaulted sewer carried off water to the river. Between the Palais des Thermes and part of the Hotel de Cluny, traces of a curious octagonal building of the 13th century have been observed. This interesting monument of antiquity had long been used by a cooper as a workshop ;4>ut, in 1819, it was purchased by the government, with the view of converting it into a Musce d'Antiquites. The houses which obstructed the view of it from the rue de la Harpe were demolished, and it was roofed, in order to save it from further ruin. Something of this kind may soon be expected to be done, the govern- ment and the municipalities of the country being fully alive to the importance of preserving the historical antiquities of the EC0LE DE MEDECINE. 379 nation. To view ihese interesting remains, application must be made to the concierge, who lives at 66, rue de la Harpe, immediately opposite the entrance to the palace. In the rue du Foin, at No. 18, is a house called, like many others in Paris, the origin of which is uncertain, the Hotel de la Reine Blanche. It is of the time of Louis XIIL, or perhaps of the end of the 16th century, and contains nothing worthy of notice. In the same street, at the corner of the rue Boutebrie, is the ancient College de Maitre Gervais. founded in 1370, now used as a barrack for infantry. At the corner of the rue de la Harpe and the rue de I'Ecole de Medecine stood, till the autumn of 1835, the church of St. Cosne, a small building of the early pointed style of the 13th cen- tury. It is now pulled down, and the rue Racine crosses its site, running in a direct line to the Odeon. In this street is the establishment of the Bains Racine, in a building of very ele- gant design. In the rue de I'Ecole de Medecine is the Ecole Royale Gratuite de Dessin, No. 5, established in the ancient amphitheatre of surgery, and founded, in 1767, by Mi Ba- chelier. (See Public Institutions.) To the west of this, in the same street, is the £cole de Medecine, the seat of the Faculty of Medicine in the Academy of Paris. Medical schools were first esta- blished in Paris in 1469; and, in 1472-7, buildings for that purpose were erected in the rue de la Bucherie. In 1618, an amphitheatre for anatomical demonstrations was built; but, in 1776, the faculty removed to an edifice in the rue St. Jean de Beauvais, formerly occupied by the Faculty of Law. On the union of the faculty of medicine with the school of sur- gery, they removed to the new school of the latter, which is the present edifice as it now stands. The first stone of this building was laid by Louis XV., in 1769, and it was opened in 1776. It was built upon the site of the ancient College de Bourgogne, after the designs of Gondouin, and is a speci- men of elegant and at the same time pure architecture. The front towards the street is 198 feet in* length, and is adorned with 16 columns of the Ionic order. Above the entrance is a bas-relief, representing Louis XV., accompanied by Wis- dom and Beneficence, granting favours and privileges to sur- gery, and the Genius of the Arts presenting to the king the plan of the building. A colonnade of four rows of Ionic co- lumns unites the two wings. The court is 66 feet in length 380 ELEVENTH ARRONDISSiMEKT. by 96 in breadth. At the bottom is a superb portico of sit Corinthian columns, of large proportions, resting upon steps, and surmounted by a pediment. The bas-relief of the tym- panum represents Theory and Practice joining hands on an altar. The amphitheatre, which is opposite the entrance, is capable of containing 1,200 students; but this accommodation is by no means sufficient, since the number of students of the faculty generally amounts to 3,000, and the building is going to be enlarged and improved. On the first floor towards the street, and on the right hand side of the court, is the Museum of the Faculty. The first room contains a valuable osteolo- gical collection, and preparations of all the parts of the hu- man body : among them the systems of the ear, the nerves, veins, etc., are fine instances of anatomical skill. This gal- lery also contains a small mineralogical collection, one of birds, several preparations in wax of the human subject, and some rare foetal monstrosities. The second room is devoted to a very interesting collection of surgical instruments, form- ing an historical museum of all the inventions in this branch of surgical art up to the present day. The lithotritic instru- ments, the obstetric, the dental, and the amputating collec- tions are well worthy of study. In the third room is a collection of intestinal preparations, of several morbid organs, and a small one of comparative anatomy. Here too are kept a cu- rious series of casts from the heads of malefactors executed at Paris, and two models in wax, one of a spotted negro, the other of the dwarf Bebe, who was attached to the service of Stanislas, King of Poland, and died in 1764, aged nearly 25 years. His real name was Ferry, and he was born in the Vosges : his height was about 20 inches. The fourth room contains, in glass cases, specimens of all the substances used in the materia medica of the present day. A fifth room contains instruments for optical and physical experiments, to which the public are not admitted without an order from the director or a medical professor. The other parts of the building contain rooms for demonstration, apartments for the superintendents, a council-chamber, and a well-selected and extensive library. The latter, which is entered by a door to the left of that of the cabinet of anatomy, is spacious, and contains a multitude of curious treatises on medicine and surgery. The museum is open to the public every Thuxsday from 11 to 3; but stu- dents and foreigners are admitted daily, on obtaining an order MUSEE DUPUYTREN. 381 from a professor, for which application must be made at the porter's lodge. Opposite to the Ecole de Medecine is the Hopital Clinique de l'Ecole de Medecine, a small in- stitution, intended more especially for the instruction of the students and the lectures of the professors. It is established in the cloister of the Cordeliers, some of the remains of which are still to be seen ; and contains 130 beds. The public are admitted on Wednesdays and Sundays from 11 to 1 ; but no fixed rule exists concerning the admission of strangers. The front, which has lately been erected, consists of a handsome tetrastyle Doric portico, containing a group of Esculapius and a boy. On each side are two bronze lions' heads, projecting from stone termini, and serving as fountains. A plain stone building extends along the rue de l'Observance, forming the body of the hospital. The visitor will have to return a short distance up the rue de l'Ecole de Medecine, to the M usee Dupuytren, founded by the University of Paris, who bought from the heirs of the late celebrated anatomist his invaluable pathological collection, which has been placed in the Refectory of the convent of Cordeliers, This apartment has been fitted up in the style of the 13th century, the date of its erection ; and the walls are occupied by upright glass- cases containing the preparations, which are nearly all in wax. The collection is composed of specimens of osteological diseases; injuries of the sensitive and venous parts of the hu- man frame : cancers and caries ; cases of osseous distortions of all kinds ; cartilaginous diseases ; ankylostic and exostosal cases ; hydrocephalus cases ; hernias, fistulas, and other ab- dominal complaints ; diseases of the liver, heart, lungs, and throat, and of the arterial system ; cases of calculi, of genital and uterine diseases ; cutaneous affections ; polypi ; and mon- strosities. The centre of the room is occupied by cases of syphilitic and verolous complaints. This museum, which is not yet completely arranged, is open to the public on Thursdays from 11 to 3, and to strangers daily on application to the porter, or to students on a professor's order. (1) On the southern side of the rue de l'Ecole de Medecine are (i) By the will of M. Dupuytren 2oo,ooofr. were left for found- ing a professorship in the faculty of medicine. 382 ELEVENTH ARRONDISSeMENT. the remains of the great convent of the Cordeliers, how used as various public edifices ; and at the corner of the rue Haute- feuille, on the northern side, is a house of the 16th century, formerly belonging to a society of Premonstralensians. In the rue Hautefeuille, the following houses will all be found fur- nished with ancient turrets, or worthy of notice ; Nos. 21, 13, 9, and 5, to which may be added one at the corner of the rue du Paon, and the rue tie 1'Ecole de Medecine. After crossing the rue St. Andre des Arts, the visitor will come to the Marche des Augustins, or a la Volaille, Quai des Augustins. — This market for poultry, also called La Vallee, was erected in 1810, upon the site of the church of the con- vent of the Grands Augustins. It is built of hewn stone, and presents, between four walls pierced with arcades, three pa- rallel galleries. The entire length is 190 feet, and the breadth 141. The market days are Wednesdays, Fridays, and Satur- days ; but poultry, as well as game, may be purchased here daily. East of this, at No. 3, rue St. Severin, is St. Skvkrix, second district church of the eleventh arron- dissement. From an early period of the French monarchy there existed on this spot an oratory and cells, where St. Se- verin, a hermit, conferred the monastic habit upon St. Cloud. He died in 530. In the ninth century the Normans destroyed the monastery. The church became parochial about the middle of the eleventh century. The present edifice was built in 1210, enlarged in 1347 and 1489, and repaired in 1684. It consists of a nave and choir, with double aisles. The eastern end is octagonal. There has been a beautiful triforium gallery running round the church, but the roof of it is destroyed, and the triforium itself has become a series of glazed windows. Lofty clerestory windows also surmount the triforium. The three compartments of the nave next to the west end are of the date 1210 : the rest of the nave and side aisles, with the choir, but not the apse, are said to be of the date 1347 ; the apse and apsidal chapels are of 1489. The workmanship of the church is good throughout ; and a beau- tiful spiral column at the crown of the apse is well worthy of notice. The mouldings of the date 1347, as well as the key- stones of the vaults, are elaborately worked. Some fine painted glass remains in the choir, but the choir itself has FONTAINE ST. SEVEMN. 383 been barbarized under the auspices of the celebrated Mselle. de Montpensier. The tower, the lower part of which is of the earliest date of the church, has a very singular pyramidal roof of the fifteenth century. This church contains several good pictures ; in the second chapel of the north aisle, are St. Peter healing the Sick, by Pallier; and the Death of Sapphira, by Picot; both of them good modern paintings. In the next chapel to this, dedicated to St. Charles Borromeo, is a small but excellent picture of the Cardinal visiting the sick of the plague. The old Lady Chapel has a dead Christ with the Virgin ; and the chapel of St. Genevieve in the south aisle, a pleasing picture of that saint, of the French school of the last century. The next chapel has a good Apotheosis of St. Paul, probably by Lesueur ; and in the adjoining one is a small but valuable crucifixion. Behind this church formerly stood the Fontaine St. Severin, at the angle of the rue St. Severin and the rue St. Jacques. — This fountain, erected in 1624, pre- sented a dome surmounted by a lantern. It bore the following inscription, by Santeuil, alluding to its being placed at the foot of the Montagne St. Genevieve : — Dum scandunt juga montis anhelo peciore nymphs, Hie una e sociis vallis, amore, sedet. It is at present removed on account of repairs. TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. This arrondissement, which is one of the most extensive, contains so many objects of interest and institutions of impor- tance, that to visit it as it deserves will require many days. On entering it by the rue Galande, the visitor will imme- diately find himself in the precincts of the old University of Paris, commonly called Le Pays Latin, and will be treading on classic ground. He will pass by The rue du Fouarre, one of the most miserable streets in Paris, and one of the most celebrated in the early days of the University. It contained several schools, where public dispu- tations were carried on ; and, it is supposed, derived its name from the straw spread on the ground for the scholars to seat themselves upon* It is mentioned by Dante, Petrarch, and Rabelais, 384 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. In the next street, called the rue des Rats, or de l'Hotel Colbert, is a house erroneously said (o have been inhabited by that celebrated statesman. The court is decorated with some bas-reliefs of the time and style of Jean Goujon. Near this, in the rue de la Boucherie, will be found a small building surmounted by a dome, formerly the School of Medi- cine; and farther to the east, at 5, Quai de la Tournclle, is the Pharmacia Centrale, where all the drugs and chemical preparations for the hospitals of Paris are kept and distributed. From hence the visitor may proceed to The Halle aux Veaux, which is a market for the sale of calves twice a-week, and on the other days for rags, etc , to the latter of which purposes it has been only of late appropri- ated. It is a large plain building, and stands on the site of part of the chapel of the great convent of Bernardins ; the remains of part of which, of the fifteenth century, are to be observed in a house adjoining the market. One of the dor- mitories of the monastery, of the thirteenth century, still re- mains, and is used as a warehouse by the Customs department. On the Quai de la Tournelle, so called from the great tower that formerly stood there, is a fruit-market called the Maille y and where all the produce of the country that comes by water is sold. It is held daily. Proceeding from hence, the visitor will go by the rue de Poissy into the rue St. Victor, where, at No. 68, he will find the Institution Royale des Jeunes Aveugles.— This insti- tution originated in the benevolent exertions of M. Hauy, and in 1791 was created a royal institution, by Louis XVI. This school occupies the buildings of the ancient College des Bons Enfans, It contains 60 blind boys, and 30 girls, who are maintained at the expense of the state for 8 years. Blind chil- dren are also admitted as boarders. The gratuitous pupils must not be under 10 nor above 14 years of age ; they are re- quired to produce certificates of their birth, total blindness, freedom from contagious diseases and idiotism, of their good conduct, and indigence. They are taught music, reading, arithmetic, writing, by means of characters raised in relief, and various trades, in all of which they excel. Admittance may be obtained every day, except Sundays and Thursdays, by ap- plying to the porter. Public exercises of the pupils take place from time to time. ST. NICHOLAS DU CHARDONNET. 385 AtNos. 101, 102, and 103, in the same street, is the Scmi- naire de St. Nicolas du Chardonnet, a large plain building. (See page 90.) At No. 76, is the ancient College du Cardinal Lcmoine, founded in the year 1300. No part of the original building exists, but the massive doors of the gateway still bear marks of the cardinal's hat and arms, and are covered with iron spear-heads. Adjoining to it is a doorway of the 15th century : and near it to the west is St. Nicolas du Chardonnet, first district church of 12th arrondissement. Upon the site of this church stood a chapel, which became parochial in 1230 : its reconstruction was commenced in 1656, and finished in 1709. It is said to have derived its name from the waste ground on which it was ori- ginally built. The tower is earlier than the rest of the edi- fice, and is anterior to the year 1600. The church itself is cruciform, with single aisles, and a circular end, standing north and south; the interior has the pilasters of its pier arches of the Composite order, and the general effect of the whole is good and imposing. There is an unusual number of good paintings to be found in this church. Immediately on entering the nave the visitor will perceive on the western side of the porch, under the organ-loft, an Ecce homo, pro- bably by Moise Valentin, but which is quite worthy of Cara- vaggio. On the opposite side of the same door, is a curious Crucifixion of the old Flemish school, not long posterior to the time of Albert Durer. Passing along the eastern aisle, the visitor will see, in the Chapelle des Fonts, a Repose in Egypt, of the school of Mignard, which is a most delightful picture. The Baptism of Christ, in the same chapel, is also of very great merit. The next chapel contains a Joseph's Dream, an early and curious painting of considerable dimen- sions: a Marriage of the Virgin, of the school of Mignard, will at the same time be remarked. In the third chapel is a pic- ture of Louis XIII. at his devotions, commonly considered to be one of St. Louis. The east aisle itself has an Agony in the Garden, by Destouches, of the modern French school ; and in the Chapel of the Communion, which forms the eastern transept, is a valuable painting of the Disciples at Emmaus, by Saurin. Of the chapels that surround the choir, the se- cond on the eastern side is dedicated to St. Francois de Sales, and, besides a fine portrait of the saint, contains a very hand- some tomb in memory of Jerome Bignon, by Anguier and Gi- 33 386 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT* rardon. Iq the chapel of St. Theresa, on the same side, are a picture of that saint in a vision, and an able painting of the Good Samaritan. The adjoining chapel, of St. Genevieve, possesses a pleasing picture of its patroness; and in the Lady Chapel is a fine groupe of the Virgin with the infant Christ, hy Bra. The chapel of St. Charles is richly ornamented; the ceiling was painted by Lebrun: it contains two monuments, one of Lebrun, and the other, of the mother of that celebrated artist ; the former is in the form of a pyramid, and presents a bust of Lebrun, by Coysevox; at the base are two weeping figures. The latter was executed by Gaspard Colignon, after designs by Lebrun ; the deceased is represented issuing from her tomb at the sound of the last trumpet; the angel which sounds the trumpet is particularly admired. This chapel also contains a picture of St. Charles administering the sacrament to the sick of the plague at Milan, by Lebrun. In that next to it is the epitaph to Santeuil, by Rollin, which has been lately restored ; as well as a good painting of an angel with a lily in the hand. An early picture of the Annunciation is placed in the western aisle of the choir, and is worthy of ex- amination. In another chapel of the same side is a picture of St. Bernard, by Lesueur, and in the western aisle of the nave is an Entombment of Christ, probably by Mignard. The or- gan is handsome, and the choir has a great quantity of marble used in its decorations. The stranger will not regret the having paid a visit to this church. At the corner of the rue des Noyers and the rue St. Jacques, are the remains of the choir of the church of St. Ives, built in 1348, and demolished in 1796 ; and at the eastern end of the same street, is the March k des Carmes. — This market was established in 1818, upon the site of the convent des Carmes. Its plan re- sembles that of the Marche St. Germain, but it is less spacious and commodious. The meat-market is held in a detached building. In the middle is a fountain, consisting of a square column ten feet in height, surmounted by two heads, one re- presenting Plenty, and the other Commerce. The rue des Carmes, and the rue St. Jean ds Beauvais, are exceedingly interesting to the antiquary, as containing several of the old colleges of the University, now appropriated to other purposes. The largest of these is the College de Lisieux, the buildings of which still remain entire, and with the chapel, a COLLEGE ROYAL RE FRANCE. 387 valuable edifice of the 14th century, are worthy of a visit. It fronts the Marche des Cannes, and is entered at No. 5, rue St. Jean de Beauvais. In the same street was the College de Beau- vais, and the College de Presle, some remains of the latter of which may perhaps be made out. In it Peter Ramus was massacred during the St. Barthelemi. In the rue des Carmes will be found, at No. 23, the College des Lombards, which, with its chapel of the 17th century, still exists. In the rue de la Montagne Ste. Genevieve, at No. 37, is the College de la Marche, now occupied by various families. Nearly opposite to it are the remains of the College or Semi- nairedes Trente-trois . At the top of the street is the Ecole Poly technique, established in the buildings of the famous Col- lege de Navarre, of which a fine hall and chapel of the 14th century still remains. (For an account of this institution see page 74.) In the rue des Amandiers, No. 14, stood the College des Grassins, the chapel of which is in existence. After again traversing the rues des Carmes and St. Jean de Beauvais, the stranger will find his way into the Place Cambrai ; in a court leading out of which, opposite the College de France, is a very curioussquare tower of the 13th century, called La Tour Bichat, or La Tour de St. Jean de Lateran : it contains a low vaulted apartment on the ground floor, a larger one above, and a third room at the top of the building. This tower is all that re- mains of the house of Knights Hospitallers, established in 1171, at Paris, afterwards known as the Chevaliers deMalte. The College Royal de France was founded in 1529, by Francis I., at the solicitation of Parvi, his preacher, and the celebrated Budee, or Budceus. Professorships were founded in it successively by most of the sovereigns of this country, and previous to the middle of the 16th century, 400 or 500 students regularly attended the lectures of this college. The wars and contagious disorders that afflicted Paris at the end of that century drove away the scholars as well as the profes- sors ; but Henry IV., at the end of his reign, formed the pro- ject of erecting a new college, and had those of Treguier, Leon, and Cambrai, pulled down to make room for it. His intentions, frustrated by his death, were partially carried into effect by Louis XIII. ; but were not resumed till 1774, when the college was entirely rebuilt by Chalgrin. It consists of a 388 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT* spacious court, surrounded on three sides by buildings. An arch, crowned by a pediment adorned with sculpture, is the only decoration of the entrance. On the ground floor are the lecture-rooms, which are large and commodious ; on the up- per floors are the apartments of the professors. Some very extensive additions have been lately made, and are still in progress, furnishing much additional and splendid accommo- dation, and increasing the college to nearly double its original size. (For particulars concerning the professors, etc., see page 71.) Strangers are admitted without difficulty. The visitor, on proceeding into the rue St. Jacques, will find, at No. 115, the Ecole Normale (see Public Institutions), the buildings of which are of no architectural interest. A little higher up in the same street, at No. 123, is the College Royal de Louis le Grand. — This was formerly the College de Clermont, founded in 1560, by Guillaume I)u- prat, bishop of Clermont. The first stone of the chapel was laid by Henry III., in 1582. The Jesuits bought it in 1563, and modified the institution according to the spirit of their order. This society being expelled from France in 1594, the college was abandoned, and, when recalled in 1604, they were forbidden to re-open it, or to give instruction. It was not till 1618 that they obtained this indulgence, when, delivered from all restrictions, they determined to rebuild their college. The first stone was laid on the 1st of August, 1628, and it was erected after the designs of Augustin Guillain. Louis XIV., who was much attached to the Jesuits, having on a public occasion called this college his own, the society immediately gave it the name which it now bears. The Jesuits, suppressed and banished in 1762, being driven for the second time from France in 1763, the members of the College de Lisieux re- moved into this building. In 1792, this college, organised under a new form, received the name of College de VEgalite; in 1800, that of Prytane'e Frangais ; in 1804, that of Lycee Imperial ; and in 1814, it resumed its former name of College de Louis le Grand. It contains a large library and a good collection of philosophical instruments. The number of its pupils is 1054. Behind this college, in the rue de Rheims, at the corner of the rue des Chollets, is a gateway and building of the time of Francis I., probably forming part of what was once the Col- BlBLIOTHEQUE DE STE. GENEVIEVE. 389 lege des Chollels. Further on, in the rue de Rheims, is the College de Ste. Barbe, a large pile of buildings of no interest to the stranger. The institution contains 380 pupils. From hence the visitor will proceed to the College de Moktaigu, 26, rue des Sept Voies. — This col- lege was founded in 1314, by Aicelin de Montaigu en A li- ver gne, Archbishop of Rouen ; and refounded in 1483 by the Chapter of Notre Dame, who appointed John Standoncht as master, by whom a code of regulations was drawn up for the College. They were noted for their extreme severity, and were supposed by some to have served as a model for those of the Jesuits. Many celebrated men belonged to this college. The buildings are of the 15th century apparently ; they are much degraded, and, having until very lately served as a mi- litary prison, are about to be sold, and perhaps demolished. The Ecole de Droit stands in front of the Pantheon, and was erected by Soufflot, in 1771. The entrance is ornamented with four Ionic columns, crowned by a pediment: and the in- terior of the building possesses some commodious lecture- rooms. The first establishment of regular schools of law in France dates from 1384; and the re-organization of the faculty of Paris took place in 1762, by order of Louis XV. Without stopping to examine the Pantheon, the stranger had better pass on to The College Royal de Henri IV., which is established in part of the Church and other buildings of the celebrated Ab- bey of Ste. Genevieve. The western side is of the 14th cen- tury ; the tower is of the 16th, and the front was erected as late as 1825. This institution was called Lycee Napoleon in 1802, and assumed its present name in 1814. The young Princes of the reigning family in France were brought up at this college. Part of the buildings of the college are occu- pied by the BiBLioTHEQUE de Ste. Genevieve, which is placed in a large gallery and several adjacent rooms. When the Cardinal de la Rochefoucauld established in the abbey of Ste. Genevieve, in 1724, the regular canons of St. Vincent de Senlis, the com- munity had no library. Shortly after, the fathers Fronteau and Lallemant formed a collection of about 10,000 volumes, which was afterwards augmented by father Dumoulinet, who purchased several collections, including that of the learned Pieresc, in 1710, Lelellier, archbishop of Hhcims, bequeathed 33. 390 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. his rich and valuable collection to the abbey of Ste. Gene- vieve. The library at present contains about 200,000 printed volumes, and 30,000 MSS. Several objects of curiosity will be found in the rooms, and among them a large drawing of the moon. It contains also a series of portraits of the sove- reigns of France, from Philippe le Hardi to Louis XV., as well as one of Mary Queen of Scots. It is open daily from 10 to 3, except on Sundays and festivals, and during the vacation, from Aug. 1, to Sept. 15. Immediately opposite to this college is St. Etienne du Mont, parish church of the 12th arron- dissement. — This church was originally a chapel for the vas- sals of the abbey of Ste. Genevieve, and stood within the walls of that abbey ; but, after the city walls had been extended by Philip Augustus, it was made parochial. The abbot was so jealous of the interference of the Bishop of Paris that the en- trance to this church still continued to be through that of Ste. Genevieve, and remained so till the 17th century. The ori- ginal date of the building is said to be 1121; but no vestiges of this early erection are to be found ; it was enlarged at the time of its being made parochial in 1222 ; and a curious square tower and circular turret, detached from and standing behind the church, are probably of that date. It was much enlarged in 1491 ; and the choir was increased in length in 1517. In 1537, the choir and nave were nearly rebuilt, and in 1605, some adjoining charniers, now used as school-rooms. The first stone of the portal was laid in 1610, by Queen Marguerite de Valois ; and a tablet over the church door remained till the Revolution, bearing an inscription to that effect. In 1624 the upper storey of the tower was built ; and the church was finally dedicated, andanew high altar raised in 1626. The oldest portions of the existing edifice are the lower storeys of the tower, and the northern aisle of the choir, which are not later than 1491, The other parts are nearly all, except the west front, of the date 1537. The church is cruciform. The eastern end is oc- tagonal ; and an aisle with chapels answering to each arcade goes round the whole. The tower stands over part of the north aisle of the nave; and small turrets are at the north- west and north-east corners of the church. The western front is a curious specimen of the style of the Renaissance struggling with the remnants of the degenerated Flamboyant, a remark that will apply to nearly the whole building. The windows still ST. ETIENNE 1)U MONT. 391 retain wide and unmeaning tracery, while all the mouldings, capitals, and ornaments are of the modern Italian style. The principal architectural peculiarity of the interior is the great height of the aisle as compared with the rest of the building ; the vaulting of it is on a level with the imposts supporting the vaulting ribs of the nave and choir. C ircular columns with classic capitals form the piers of the nave and choir ; and in the vaulting spaces of the lateral walls, over the circular arches springing from the central columns, are small clerestory win- dows. The aisles on the contrary have lofty clerestory win- dows, filled for the most part with good stained glass, said to be by Pinaigrier. The tracery of the windows of the north aisle of the choir is peculiarly good. From the middle of each column, all round the church, excepting the large spaces at the entrance ot the transepts, circular arches are thrown from one to the other, supporting a gallery and balustrade, wide enough to allow of only one person passing at a time. The choir is separated from the nave by a very magnificent and elaborate screen 'consisting of a low and wide elliptical arch, formerly divided by mullions and tracery ; two beauti- ful spiral staircases of an excessive lightness wind round the pillars at the entrance, and two finely-wrought door-ways, crowned with figures, separate the aisles. The balustrades of the staircase are particularly remarkable for their rich scroll Work. The vaulting of the cross is ornamented with a pen- dent key-stone 12 feet deep, supported by iron work in the middle. This church is rich in pictures, and other objects of curiosity. In the first chapel, on entering at the western doorway, to the right hand, is a very beautiful Holy Family, probably by the author of a fine picture of a similar subject in the Church of Ste. Marguerite. The next has a curious picture of the Saviour's family, and a good one of the school of Lesueur, representing the Martyrdom of St. Stephen. A Re- surrection in the third cbapel is to be observed ; and, in the 5th, a Crucifixion, with Louis XIII. and St. Louis introduced at the foot of the cross. In this chapel there is a curious en- tombment of Christ in a group of stone. In the chapel of the Sacre cceur the adoration of it is the subject of a good picture. A fine painting of St. Bernard, and one of the Death of St. Louis, occupy the first chapel in the. south aisle of the choir. On the wall, between this chapel and that of Ste. Genevieve, is an epitaph on Racine, written by Roileau, and one to Pas- 392 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. cal, who was buried in this church. The last-named chapel contains a tomb, said, by an inscription placed near it, to be the original depositary of the body of the Saint. It is, how- ever, by its mouldings, of the 13th century. Over the en- trance to this chapel is a large and fine picture, representing, it is said, Anne of Austria accompanied by the Parlement, imploring Ste. Genevieve, who is herself making intercession for the life of Louis XIII. It is said to be by De Troy, and to have been painted soon after 1709. It is, most probably, by Lar- gilliere, and represents the Genius of France with the Parle- ment interceding with Sie. Genevieve for the cessation of a famine of that date. In the northern isle of the choir is the pendant to this picture, one of equal dimensions, by Largilliere, painted in 1696, and representing the Prevot des Marchands and the city officers in full costume, with a great number of Spectators, among whom are Largilliere himself and the poet santeuil, praying to Ste. Genevieve. They are said tobeboth votive pictures, offered by the city of Paris, and are worthy of a careful inspection. In the apsidal aisle of the choir is a fine Martyrdom of St. Stephen, byLebrun, one of the best produc- tions of that master ; and a Preaching of St. Stephen, by Abel de Pujol. Over the high altar will be observed the reliquary of Ste. Genevieve; and from this part of the church the magnificent organ will be seen to great advantage. In two chapels of the north aisle of the choir are pictures of St. FrasicoisXavier, and one of Ste. Augustine, praying with a crown of thorns on her head, the duplicate of which is in the church of St. Ambroise ; and in a chapel of the north aisle of the nave is a good picture of the Guardian Angel, of the school ofMignard. The pulpit of this church should be observed ; it is supported by a figure of Sampson, is ornamented with beauti- fully carved small statues, and is surmounted by a rich cano- py ; the whole of which is not of ordinary workmanship. On the festival of Ste. Genevieve pilgrimages are made to this church, and it is celebrated in Paris for the ceremonies that take place in it on other occasions. Besides Pascal, Tourne- fort the botanist, Lesueur the painter, P. Perrault, Lemaitre, and the Abbe de Sacy, were interred here. The representa- tion of the interior is a favourite subject with the French artists of the present day. The rue de Clovis leads from hence into the rue des Fosses St. Victor, Here, at No. 25, is the COLLEGE DES ECOSSAIS. 393 College des fccossAis. — This seminary was at first si- tuated in the rue des Amandiers, but it afterwards was es- tablished in a new building, finished in 1665, in the rue des Fosses St. Victor. It was originally founded by David, bishop of Moray, in Scotland, in 1325; and again, by James Beatoun, or de Bethune, Archbishop of Glasgow, in 1603. A black marble slab, on the east-side of the chapel door, records these facts, in a Latin inscription, surmounted by the armorial bearings of the two founders. The college was rebuilt by Robert Barclay in 1665 ; and the chapel, which was erected in 1672, is dedicated to the. Virgin Mary. This apartment, which was degraded during the Revolution, is now restored to its original purposes, and contains many monuments of in- terest to the English visitor. The most remarkable is the monument of the unfortunate James II., erected to his me- mory by his faithful friend and the constant companion of his exile, James, Duke of Perth, governor of his son, called James III. and the Old Pretender. On the top of the monu- ment was formerly an urn of bronze gilt, containing the brain of the king, who died at St. Germain en Laye, the 16th of September, 1701. This monument, in black and white mar- ble, was executed by Louis Gamier, in 1703, and bears along Latin inscription. When the Irish college was made the chef-lieu of the British colleges, this monument was trans- ported there, where it remained some years ; but it is now restored to its original place. In front of it is a slab, over the entrails of Louisa Maria, second daughter of the king ; and on one side, another over the heart of Mary Gordon, of Huntly, Duchess of Perth. Monumental tablets and inscriptions exist here in memory of James Drummond, Duke of Perth, who died in 1720, and of the next Duke of the same name, who died in 1726; of John Caryl, Baron Dunford ; Frances Jen- nings, Duchess of Tyrconnel; Sir Patrick Monteth, of Salmo- net, Sir Marian O'Conoly, Dr. Andrew Hay, Dr. Lewis Innes, confessor to James II. ; and Dr. Robert Barclay. This and the two other British colleges were suppressed at the Re- volution, and the property belonging to them was seques- trated. The government of Napoleon embodied all the col- leges of Paris into one establishment, under the authority of the Minister of the Interior, and gave them the Irish seminary, rue des Irlandais. Over the door was inscribed, Chef-lieu des Colleges Britanniques. Upon the Restoration, the former pre- sident of the colleges, and the other English Catholic clergy, 394 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. claimed their property, which was restored to the Irish col- lege, while that of the Scotch and English colleges was left in the hands of an administrator appointed by the govern- ment, and slill remains under the controul oflhe Minister of Public Instruction. The present administrator is the Abbe Ferey. The valuable manuscripts of King James II., which, as is mentioned in the inscription on his monument, were con- fided to this seminary, were unfortunately lost during the Revo- lution, as it is said ; but the library still exists. The house is let to the master of an institution, but is not of any architectural interest. Over the door is inscribed — College des Escossais. Next door to this college is the convent of English Augustin nuns, which was the only religious house in Paris that was not disturbed during the Revolution. It is a plain building, with a small chapel, containing some English tombs. The ladies of this convent are occupied with the education of their young countrywomen. From hence the visitor will ascend this street to the south, and at No. 37, will observe a building of the same date and style as the College des Ecossais, which was formerly a re- ligious house belonging to the Peres de la Doctrine; it is now used as a cotton-factory. Proceeding along the rue de Fourcy, the stranger will ar- rive at a small street leading on the left to the College des Irlandais. — This is a handsome and com- modious building, forming three sides of a spacious quadran- gle planted with trees. On the ground-floor of the right- wing is the chapel, distinguished by its simple neatness. It was built after the designs of Bellanger, in 1780, and is de- dicated to the Virgin, of whom there is a stalue overthe altar. To the right of the Virgin, on entering the chapel, is placed a picture of St. Patrick, and on the left that of St. Bridget, pa- troness of the Irish. In a vault beneath repose the ashes of several Irish of distinction. Above the chapel is the library, containing a large collection of works, principally theological. It is said that James II. bequeathed his bowels to this college, but no monument remains to point out the spot where they w r ere deposited. This institution, which has been fully re- established by the French government, consists of a principal and administrator, a prefect of study, a bursar, six professors oflhe Scriptures, dogmatic theology, moral philosophy, logic, humanity, and medicine., and 100 students. It is devoted to THE PANTHEON. 395 Hie education of young Irishmen, for the Catholic church of their own country, and sends thither annually about 25 priests. A great number of bursarships belong to this col- lege, which by the exertions of the principal, Dr.Mc Sweeny, and the reputation of its learned professors, is in a very flou- rishing condition. The dress and rules of the college are very much the same as those of the English Universities, and the institution itself cannot fail of offering much interest to the British visitor. Very near to the above is the College des Anglais, 22, rue des Posies. — This Semi- nary was established under letters patent granted by Louis XIV., in 1684, which authorised Catholics, who could not be educated for the ministry in England, to live in ecclesiastical community. Their church was dedicated to St. Gregory the Great. This house was suppressed in 1792, and is now rented for secular purposes. The administrator of the estates, which have been restored, is the Abbe Ferey. Adjoining to it in the same street is the Seminaire du St. Esprit. — The building was erected in 1769 for a seminary, which was suppressed in 1792, and re- stored in 1815. It presents nothing remarkable, except a fine bas-relief, above the pediment of the church, representing a missionary preaching. Strangers may visit this seminary, by applying to the Super ieur. The stranger may now return to The Pantheon, formerly the church of Ste. Genevieve, which has three times changed its name. Clovis, at the soli- citation of his queen, and Ste. Genevieve, founded, near his palace, a church dedicated to the apostles Peter and Paul. To the church a religious community was afterwards attached, and in process of time the house became a celebrated abbey. Ste. Genevieve was buried in 512, in this church, which was thenceforward dedicated to her, and she became the patron saint of Paris. The church of Ste. Genevieve having fallen into ruins, Louis XV. was induced by Mad. de Pompadour to erect one near it upon a large and magnificent scale. Designs presented by Souffiot were adopted, and, on the 6lh September, 1764, the king laid the first stone. The cost of the building was defrayed by a lottery. The portico is composed of 22 fluted Corinthian columns, 60 feet in height, and six in dia- meter, which support a triangular pediment 120 feet in breadh, 396 TWELFTH AURONDISSEMKNT. by 24 in height. The pediment is now receiving some sculptures by David ; and on the frieze beneath it is the in- scription : — Aux grands hommes la patrie reconnaissante, composed by M. Pastoret. During the Restoration, the pedi- ment had in its tympanum a radiant cross, and the inscription ran thus < D.O.M. sub invoc. S. Genovefae. Lud. XV. dicavit. Lud, XVIII. restituit. From the centre of the edifice rises the great dome, spring- ing from a circular gallery surrounded by 32 Corinthian co- lumns ; above it is a lantern formerly terminated by a gilded ball and cross, which are to be replaced by an allegorical figure. The total height of the dome is 282 ft. The plan of the church is a Greek or equilateral cross, the walls of the 4 members of which are externally perfectly plain, with the exception of their frieze and cornice. Within a gallery and colonnade are on each side of each of the four members, forming so many naves with aisles. Above the cornice of the colonnade, supported by Corinthian columns, which are fluted, and with their entablature are of the richest style of decoration, a gallery and semicircular windows are placed, throwing a strong light into all parts of the building. The vaulting of each nave is richly sculptured, and its height above the pavement is 80 ft. The dome, 62 ft. in diameter at the gallery, rising from the centre of the cross, was origi- nally supported within by 12 Corinthian columns; which, from the imperfect manner of their erection, threatened soon after being finished to fall and to ruin the whole edifice ; they were therefore replaced by solid piles of masonry, the plain surfaces of which are rather incongruous with the rest of the church. On these piers are placed bronze tablets en- graved with the names of those who fell in the Revolution of 1830, in gold. The painting of the dome is by Gros, who re- ceived 100,000 fr. for its execution, and was created a baron upon a visit made to the church by Charles X. It is a fine composition, extending over a superficies of 3,256 square feet. Upon the lower part are 4 groups, united together by figures of angels and other emblems, each of which represents a mo- narch of France, who by the lustre of his reign or the in- fluence of his age formed an epoch in thehistory of the coun- THE PANTHEON. 397 try. Clovis, Charlemagne, St. Louis, and Louis XVIII., are the four raonarchs so designated ; and they appear to render homage to Ste. Genevieve, who is descending towards them upon a cloud. In the heavenly regions are seen Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Louis XV!I. and Madame Elizabeth. A gleam of light at the loftiest point indicates the abode of the Deity. During the Revolution the walls of the interior of the church were ornamented with bas-reliefs relating to philoso- phical subjects ; in 1826, these were all removed, and the objects of Catholic worship were placed in their stead. The interior is now perfectly empty, without any object or orna- ment in it except the architectural decoration?. Statues of Voltaire and other great men are to be placed here at some future time ; and the gallery of the dome with the pendentives is now being painted, to correspond to the vaulting of the dome itself. Underneath the pavement of the church is an immense series of vaults, the entrance to which is at the east end, below what was formerly the choir. Those towards the east are well lighted by windows above the ground, and the vaulted roofs are supported by Tuscan columns. In those under the western nave monuments and funereal urns are ar- ranged after the fashion of the Roman tombs at Pompeii. In the centre are two concentric circular passages, where a loud echo repeats the smallest sound with great force. Within these vaults are deposited the remains of Voltaire and Rous, seau, with a fine marble statue of the former, intended for th e church above. Among the notabilities buried here, are th illustrious mathematician, Lagrange; Bougainville, the cir e cumnavigator ; the Dutch Admiral, De Winter; Soufflot' the architect of the church ; Marshal Lannes, Duke de Mon- tebello, etc. Mirabeau was interred here in 1791, and his remains were transported hither with great pomp on the 4th of April in that year. The celebrated apotheosis of Voltaire also took place here on the 30th of the month following; and that of Rousseau soon after. Marat was also buried here ; but his remains, as well as those of Mirabeau, were afterwards de- pantheonized by order of the National Government. The area surrounding the church is at present undergoing much improvement, and whatever remained unfinished in the mo- nument, or required repair, is now being executed by able artists and architects, under the orders of government. Two very large and magnificent candelabra are placed at the ex- 34 398 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. tremity of the rails on the western side ; the approach to the eastern end is improved ; and the edifice will shortly have all its accessory parts worthy of its own magnificence. The visitor is strongly recommended not only to visit the vaults, but also to ascend the dome; which, from being the most elevated building in the capital, affords a view at once the most extensive and the most remarkable. Strangers are readily ad- mitted on applying at the lodge, and on paying a small gratuity. On the Place du Pantheon, a building corresponding to that of the Ecole de Droit is going to be erected by the municipality of Paris, for the Mairie of the 12th arrondissement. From this place the stranger will do well to proceed to St. Jacques du Haut Pas, 252, rue St. Jacques, second district church of 12th arrondissement. — Upon the site of this church a chapel, dependent on the hospital du Haut Pas, ex- isted in the 14th century. Another chapel was added to the former in 1584; and in 1630 both were demolished, and the present structure commenced ; the first stone being laid by Gaston of Orleans, only brother of Louis XIH. When the choir was built the works were suspended, but were resumed in 1675, by the munificence of Anne de Bourbon, Duchess de Longueville, and terminated in 1684. The architecture of this church is not remarkable for any peculiar excellence or elegance. The plan is slightly cruciform: the west end, at which the altar is situated, is circular, and a single aisle runs round both the nave and choir. The different dates of the build- ing, 1630 and 1675, are easily perceptible in the choir and in the aisles. The pictures contained in the church are far be- low mediocrity ; but in a chapel in the northern aisle of the nave, now used as a parochial school, are four very fine paintings of the fathers of the Lcitin church, St. Jerome, St. Ambrose, St. Augustin, and St. Gregory. Nothing is known of the history of these paintings, nor of how they came into the possession of the church : but they are probably by Moise Valentin. Cassini, the astronomer, was buried here, as well as the learned La Hire, Cochin, rector of the parish, and founder of tMe hospital, etc. Next door to this church is the Institution Koyale des Sourds et Muets. — For this nstitution, France is indebted to the celebrated Abbe de TEpee, who, without patronage, and with a fortune not exceeding 500?. a-year, undertook to maintain and bring up at his own INSTITUTION ROY ALE DES SOURDS ET MtJETS. 399 expense more than 40 deaf and dumb pupils, whom he sue* ceeded in instructing to read and write, to comprehend all the difficulties of grammar, and to reduce the most abstract meta- physical ideas to writing. The Abbe de 1'Epee was first brought into notice by the Emperor Joseph II. on his visit to the French capital in 1777. The Queen, Marie Antoinette, soon after visited the school, and the institution was ordered to be transferred by Government to a convent of Celestins, which had been suppressed. This, however, was not carried into effect till 1785. The Abbe de l'Epee, dying in 1790, was succeeded by the Abbe Sicard, who carried the system of in- struction to perfection. During the Revolution this institution was transferred to the buildings of the Seminaire de St, Ma- gloirc, rue du Faubourg St. Jacques, where it still continues. The number of gratuitous pupils is 80 ; besides which, 10 are admitted to half-pensions, and 10 to three-quarter pensions. The number of boarders is unlimited. To be admitted gratui- tously into the institution, the child must be full 10 years old, and not exceed 15, and must present a certificate from the authorities of his parish, setting forth his birth, baptism, vac- cination, that he is really deaf and dumb, and without the means of paying for education. The pupils of both sexes remain in the institution five or six years, and are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, drawing, engraving, and some trade. The terms for boarders depend upon the circumstances of their parents, but the common standard is 900 fr. a-year for boys, and 800 fr. for girls. Strangers are admitted to witness the public exercises, which generally take place once a-month, are highly interesting, and extremely well attended, (lj Besides the general establishment, there is also a gratuitous day school for children of both sexes. About 70,000 fr. are annually voted by the Chambers for the support of this institution. For tickets of admission, application must be made by letter, post paid, to the Director of the institution at the house itself. Nearly opposite St. Jacques du Haut Pas is the Convent of the Dames de la Visitation, now used by the Swurs de St, Michel. On the same side of the street were the convents of the Ursulines and the Feuillantines ; and between the latter and the Convent of the Yal de Grace was a house of English (i) The days of examination are regularly announced in Galig* nanis Messenger, 400 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. Benedictins , where James H. was buried, after beqeathing his head, heart, and bowels to the British College. (1) It is now used as a cotton-manufactory. In the rue d'Enfer, behind St. Jacques du Haut Pas, will be found the Convent des Dames Carmelites, where Mademoiselle de la Valliere, the beautiful mistress of Louis XIV., took the veil in 1675, as Sceur Louise de la Misericorde. The rue d'Enfer will lead to L'Observatoxre. — Upon the establishment of the Academy of Sciences in the reign of Louis XIV., Claude Perrault was charged by Colbert to prepare a design for this edifice, which was begun in 1667, and finished in 1672. When the build- ing was considerably advanced, John Dominic de Cassini, the astronomer, whom Colbert had sent for from Bologna, came to Paris. He found the structure so ill adapted for astrono- mical observations, that, at his suggestions, several alterations were made, but still there is no part of the building from which they can be made with accuracy. The principal pile forms a parallelogram of 90 feet by 82, to which have been added on the south two octagonal towers, that give a greater extension to the front. In the north front is a projection of 24 feet, which forms the entrance. The platform which crowns the edifice is 85 feej from the ground. Neither wood nor iron were used in its construction. The whole building is of stone, and all the rooms and staircases are vaulted. The principal part of this edifice being found useless, a low small building has been erected on the east, in which nearly all the observations are made. This structure is so disposed, that the two lateral fronts are parallel, and the two others perpendi- cular to the meridian line, which forms its axis, and which is traced on the floor of a large room at the second story. This line, prolonged to the south and the north, extends on one side to Collioure, and on the other to Dunkirk. The meridian line, which divides this building into two equal parts, is the point from which French astronomers reckon their longitude ; ils direction is marked by an obelisk at Montmarlre, the distance of which from the Observatory is nearly three English miles (i) James II. is by some supposed to have been buried at St. Germain en Lave, where he died, and a handsome tomb has been erected in the church of that town over some remains said to be those of the unfortunate monarch. The best authorities are in favour of the convent above mentioned. L'OBSERVATOIttE. 401 * and a half. Its prolongation, extending from Dunkirk to Barcelona, served to measure the quarter of the terrestrial me- ridian, which is calculated to be equal to 5,130,740 toises.(l) The line of the southern front of the Observatory corresponds with that of the latitude of Paris, which crosses France in the direction of east to west. This line and the meridian crossing each other at the centre of the southern front of the Observa- tory, have served for the point of departure of numerous tri- angles, from which has been projected the general map of France, called Carte de Cassini or de V Observatoire, in 182 sheets. On the ground-floor is an opening, three feet in dia- meter, which leads to the subterranean rooms, by a spiral staircase of 360 steps. Formerly there was a corresponding opening, which passed through the various floors to the roof of the edifice, affording the means of astronomical observa- tions, for experiments upon the fall of bodies, and the veri- fication of barometers, etc. Visitors are not allowed to de- scend into these subterranean chambers, on account of acci- dents having happened. On the first floor is a telescope 22 feet in length, and 22 inches in diameter, which is fixed to a large moveable frame, and can be drawn out on the platform of the southern front ; there is also an achromatic telescope of large dimensions. Every night, when the weather permits, observations are made from this platform and the small rooms adjoining. On the second-floor is a spacious room, containing globes, various magnetic instruments, the meridian line upon the floor, and the marble statue of Cassini, who died in 1712, at the age of 87 years. In the Salle des Secrets is a phenome- non in acoustics : by putting the mouth against a pilaster and speaking low, the voice may be heard by a person at the op- posite pilaster, and by no other person in the room. Upon the floor of another room is a universal chart, engraved by Chazelles and Sedileau. Upon the roof of this edifice, which is formed of thick stones, is an anemometer, which indicates the direction of the wind, upon a dial placed under the vault of one of the rooms. There is also here a pluviameter, for ascertaining the quantity of rain which falls at Paris in a year. A well-selected library is attached to the establishment, and a fine mural circle was erected by the munificence of the Duke d'Angouieme. The building on the east is entered from the (t) The ten millionth part of this length has been adopted for the metre or standard of long measure in France. 34. 402 TWELFTH ARRONBiSSEMENT. first floor of the principal structure. It contains Various in- struments, and among others a transit instrument to observe the meridian passage of the sun. The roof of this small building opens in various parts, by means of a simple mecha- nical arrangement. Until 1811, the front of the Observatory was in great part hidden by houses and other buildings, which have since been taken down. It is now surrounded by a ter- race, according to the original plan of Perrault, and the outer court is enclosed by palisades and two modern pavilions. A wide avenue, planted with trees, extends in a straight line from these pavilions to the railing of the garden of the Lux- embourg, and from thence to the walk in front of the centre of the palace. On the vacant spot between the palisades of the garden and those of the Observatory, the unfortunate Marshal Ney was shot in December, 1815. The Bureau des Longitudes holds its sittings at the Observatory, w hich is open to strangers every day. Close by the Observatory is the Hospice cIes EnfansTrouves, 74, rue d'Enfer, which was founded by St. Vincent de Paulc, in 1638, and through the exertions of the same benevolent man was improved and aug- mented at several periods between that time and the year 1648. The establishment was first situated near the old Porte St. Victor, afterwards at Bicetre; but was removed from the latter place soon after 1648, to the Convent of St. Lazare. — In 1667, on a decree of the Parlement, the managers of the institution erected the Hospice des Orphelins in the Faubourg St. Antoine, and placed the Enfans Trouves at the corner of the Parvis Notre Dame. At the Revolution, the latter were removed to their present house, formerly the Convent of the Pretres de I'Oratoire. At the same time the ancient abbey of Port Royal, in the rue de la Bourbe, and in the immediate neighbourhood, was appropriated to the same purposes. The latter is now a lying-in hospital, and the former is only ap- propriated to children. Any children may be sent here, and are kept till the age of two years. During the day time they are admitted at the bureau, and by night they are received in a box called le tour, placed in the wall near the gate of the hospital, and which is turned round on ringing the bell at- tached to it. The infant is laid in it, the box is again turned round, and the mother cannot again see her child without formally recognizing it, and withdrawing U from the hospi- HOSPICE DE5 ENFANS TftOtJYES. 403 tal. No questions are asked at any time, and if the child's name be written on paper and attached to it, or delivered in at the bureau, the identity of the infant is assured with the greatest caution. If the child is healthy it is put out to nurse in the country ; if not, it is kept in the hospital as long as its health requires.. Nurses from the country of good character are paid a certain allowance with the children they receive, and numbers of peasant women arrive daily at the hospital in search of employment of this nature. They are kept there a few days, and leave after their charges are assigned to them. It has become the practice of late years for mothers to put their children into the hospital, then to present themselves as nurses, and so to run the chance of receiving their own child to nurse, together with the allowance paid by the hos- pital; and, whether by humane connivance on the part of the directors, or otherwise, mothers have generally obtained their own children from the hospital without much diffi- culty. This has led to so much abuse of the institution, and to such an increase of the expense attending it, that the legislature is expected to interfere in the matter. Formerly tours were opened in all the hospitals of this nature which are established in all the principal towns in France; but they are now ordered to be shut, with the exception of one in each chef-lieu of a department; and a declaration will be required of the parent in the other hospitals. The children, too, of one department are to be confided to nurses of another and distant one, so that the possibility of mothers receiving their own children may be diminished. The internal arrange- ments of this hospital are very admirable; the weak and not decidedly diseased children are kept apart from the rest in a room called La Creche, where cradles are placed round the w alls in rows, and several nurses are constantly employed in attending to them. A sloping bed is placed in front of the fire, on which the children who require it are laid, and small chairs are ranged in a warm corner in which children of suf- ficient age and strength are placed sitting upright during part of the day. The infirmary for the sick children is on a simi- lar plan, as is also one for those afflicted with complaints of the eyes. The utmost cleanliness prevails, and every thing is conducted with the greatest care and vigilance, notwithstand- ing w hich the mortality is very great. The number of chil- dren annually received amounts to between 5 ; 000 and 0,000, 404 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. most, but not all, of whom may be supposed to be illegiti* mate ; and about 150 are constantly in the hospital. The an- nual expense is about 1,500,000 fr. After two years of age, if their health admits of it, they are transferred to the Hospice des Orphelins.(l) The whole is under the administration of the Swurs de Charite, and reflects the highest credit both on its founders and administrators. The humane visitors can- not, however, avoid the impression of painful feeling, on witnessing so much apparent suffering, and the fruits of so much improvidence. Strangers are readily admitted, on asking for permission at the Bureau. A little beyond is the Infirmerie de Marie Therese, 86, rue d'Enfer. — This hospital, founded by the Viscountess de Chateaubriand, in Oc- tober, 1819, derives its name from the Dauphiness, who be- came its protectress. The persons received here are sick ec- clesiastics, and sick or infirm ladies. The house contains only 15 beds, but the institution being destined for persons who have moved in respectable society, the furniture, linen, food, etc., are greatly superior to what are found in common hospitals. The inmates are attended by the Scaurs de St. Vincent de Paule. The infirmary is supported by voluntary contributions, and the sale of chocolate, syrups, orange flower-water, etc., 04 ex- cellent quality. At the extremity of the rue St. Jacques is the Bar Here d'Arcueil, or de St. Jacques, immediately outside of which the guillotine is erected whenever it becomes necessary to carry the last sentence of the law into effect. This spot was judi- ciously selected as being far removed from the busy parts of the capital. This circumstance, added to the early hour at which executions generally take place, tends to diminish the throng that might otherwise be attracted by the melan- choly ceremonial; and, together with the feelings of the government, as well as of the nation at large, dissuade the people from indulging in a spirit of cruel curiosity. The same favouring circumstances cannot be attributed to the place where, in consequence of the erection of the NouveauBicetre in its neighbourhood, it is said that executions will in future take place. This is the open space called the Place de la Ro- (1) It is the intention of the munieipality of Paris to join the Hospice des Orphelins to that of the Enians Trouves, by which a great saying of money will be effected. CATACOMBS. 405 quette, in front of the gateway of Pere la Chaise. Persons desirous of seeing the guillotine, without witnessing an exe- cution, may do so by writing to M. Henri, 31, rue des Marais, Faubourg du Temple, stating their wish to that effect, with the day and hour that may suit them. M. Henri will then take care to have them shown the fatal machine, and to have explained its mode of operation. The fee required is 20 fr., hut the party may consist of any number of persons. Outside the Barriere d'Enfer, on the Route d' Orleans, is the Maison de Rethaite, or Hospice be Larociiefoucauld. — This house, which is now devoted to the reception of old servants of the hospitals, and other aged and inQrm persons, was originally established by the Freres de la Charite, under the title of Maison Royale de Sante, for 12 soldiers, and the same number of ecclesiastics. The buildings were erected after the designs of Antoine, and in 1802 were devoted to their present purpose. Infirm persons who are 60 years of age and upwards pay 200 fr. a-year, and those under that age, 250fr. Infirm persons, of small fortune, upwards of 20 years of age, may treat for admission by paying down a sum according to their age, etc., which gradually rises from 700 fr. to 1,600 fr. The number of beds is 210. The house furnishes food, fire, medicines, etc., and there is a private infirmary. The Sceurs de Chariie attend this institution, which may be visited by applying to the porter. Near this place are the Catacombs. — These immense receptacles for the bones of the dead were devoted to that purpose in 1784, when the Council of State issued a decree for clearing the cemetery of the Innocents, and for removing its contents, as weli as those of other cemeteries, into the quarries that had existed from a remote period beneath the southern part of Paris, and by which the Observatory, the Luxembourg, the Odeon, the Val de Grcice, the Pantheon, the rues de la Harpe, de St. Jacques, de Tournon, de Vaugirard, and several other streets, were completely undermined. Some excavations having taken place, a special commission was appointed to direct such works as might be required. Engineers and workmen were immediately employed to examine the whole of the quarries, and prop the streets, roads, churches, palaces, and buildings of all kinds, which were in danger of being engulphed. The thought of converting the quarries into Catacombs originated 406 TWELFTH ARRCWDISSEMENT, with M. Lenoir, lieutenant-general of the police. That part of the quarries under the Plaine de Mont Souris was allotted for this purpose ; a house, known by the name of la Tombe Issoire, or Isouard (from a famous robber, who once infested that neighbourhood), on the old road to Orleans, was pur- chased, with a piece of ground adjoining ; and every prepa- ration was made by sinking a shaft, propping up the cavities, and walling off various portions, for receiving their future contents. The ceremony of consecrating the intended Cata- combs was performed with great solemnity on the 7th of April, 1786, and on that same day the removal from the ce- metery began. This work was always performed at night; the bones were brought in funeral cars, covered with a pall, and followed by priests in their surplices, chanting the ser- vice of the dead. When they reached the Catacombs the bones were shot down the well, and the rattling and echoing w hich they made in their fall was as impressive a sound as ever was heard by human eaVs. The various tombstones, mo- numents, etc., not claimed by the families of the deceased, were removed and arranged in a field belonging to the Tombe Issoire ; some of them were very curious ; and among them was the leaden coffin of Mad. de Pompadour. They were all destroyed however during the Revolution; and a ginguette was erected on the spot. The cemeteries of St. Euslache and St. Etienne des Gres having been suppressed in 1787, the bones from them were removed to this general deposit, by order of the government. The Catacombs served also as convenient receptacles for those who perished in popular com- motions or massacres. The bones, when first brought to the Catacombs, were heaped up without any kind of order, except that those from each cemetery were kept separate. In 1810, a regular system of piling up the bones was commenced under the direction of M. Hericart de Thury. Openings were made to obtain air, channels were formed to carry off the water, steps were constructed from the lower to the upper excava- tion, pillars erected to support the dangerous parts of the roof, and the skulls and bones built up along the walls. The entrance to the Catacombs is near the Barriere d'Enfer ; and one for workmen exists near the old Orleans road: but for some years past admission into them has been strictly inter- dicted on account of the very dangerous state of the roofs of the quarries. A few persons have by great interest been, by i CATACOMBS. 407 the prefect of police, lately allowed to enter ; but, in general, the faculty of admission may be said to be impossible to be obtained; we, however, subjoin a brief description of them, in order that an idea may be formed of their contents. The staircase down to the Catacombs consists of 90 steps ; at the bottom of which a series of galleries conducts to that of Port Mahon, so called from an old soldier, who worked here and amused himself, in his leisure hours, for 5 years, in carving out of the stone a plan of Port Mahon, where he had been long a prisoner. At a short distance from this spot are some enormous fragments of stone nicely balanced on a base, hardly exceeding a point, and in this equilibrium they have remained for more than two centuries. About 200 yards fur- ther on is the vestibule of the Catacombs. !t is of an octago- nal form. On the sides of the door are two stone benches, and two pillars of the Tuscan order. Over the door is the following inscription: — Has ultra metas requiescunt, beatum spem spectantes. The vestibule opens into a long gallery lined with bones from the floor to the roof. The arm, leg, and thigh bones are in front, closely and regularly piled to- gether, and their uniformity is relieved by three rows of skulls at equal distances. Behind these are thrown the smaller bones. This gallery conducts to several rooms, re- sembling chapels, lined with bones variously arranged ; and in the centre, or in niches of the walls, are vases and altars, some of which are formed of bones, and others are ornament- ed with skulls of different sizes. These chapels contain nu- merous inscriptions ; one is called the Tombeau de la Revo- lution, another the Tombeau des Victimes, and they contain the bodies of those who perished either in the early period of the Revolution, or in the massacres of the 2d and 3d Septem- ber. On a large stone pillar is the inscription Memento, quia pulvis es ; and in another are* sentences taken from the work of Thomas a Rem pis, " The Imitation of Christ." Here too, is a fountain, in which some golden fish were put, and in which they lived but did not spawn. The spring was disco- vered by the workmen ; the basin was made for their use, and a subterraneous aqueduct carries off the waters. M. Hericart de Thury named it la Source d'Oubli, but it is now called Fontaine de la Samaritaine, from an inscription of the words of Christ to the Samaritan woman. A faint moulder- ing smell is perceived, but not to any unpleasant or dangerous 408 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. degree. Two cabinets have been formed in the Catacombs by M. Hericart de Thury. One is a mineralogical collection of specimens of all the strata of the quarries ; the other is a pathological assemblage of diseased bones, scientifically ar- ranged. There is likewise a table, on which are exposed the skulls most remarkable either for their formation or the marks of disease which they bear. The album which is kept at the Catacombs contains a great many effusions of senti- ment, a few of devotional feeling, and numerous miserable witticisms and profligate bravados. The calculations differ as to the number of bones collected in this vast charnel-house. It is, however, certain that it contains the remains of at least 3,000,000 of human beings. Returning from hence the stranger will come to the Hopital Cochin, 45, rue du Faubourg St. Jacques. — This institution was founded by M. Cochin, the benevolent rector of St. Jacques du Haut Pas, in 1780, and its buildings were finished in 1782. It was at first intended by the founder for his own parishioners; but patients, of the same classes as those of the Hotel Dieu, are now received here from all parts of the capital. The number of beds is 112 ; and the Samrs de Ste. Martha attend upon the patients. The hospital may be visited by strangers daily. In the rue des Capucines, No. 39, faubourg St. Jacques, is the Hopital des Veneriens. — This establishment was fixed in its present locality in 1784; it contains 650 beds for per- sons of both sexes, as well as for children who may have be- come infected by means of their parents. (1) Gratuitous ad- vice and medicines arc also given to persons at their own houses. Nearly 3000 patients are annually admitted. Attached to it is a Maison de Sante for the same class of complaints, founded in 1809, and situated at 17, rue du Faubourg St. Jacques. As may be readily imagined, permission to visit these establishments is not easily obtained, and is not very desirable. On crossing the rue du Faubourg St. Jacques, the visitor will find the Maison d' Accouchement, 3, rue de la Bourbe. — This hospital which occupies the buildings of the Abbey of Port (i) A separate hospital for female patients is about to be formed at 97, rue de 1'Oursine. HOPITAL MILITAIRE — VAL DE GRACE. 409 Royal, rendered famous by the Jesuits and Pascal, was de- voted to its present purpose in 1814, having been previously mixed up with the establishment of the Enfans Trouves. It contains in all 430 beds, of which 250 are for patients, 25 for children, and 150 for pupils. Any woman in her 8th month of pregnancy, who declares herself to be in distress, is ad- mitted to this hospital without any further question being asked. They are attended in their confinement by women, or, if need be, by the first syrgeons ; and, unless their health will not admit of it, are removed from the hospital after the expiration of 9 days from their confinement. They are al- lowed to send their children to the Enfans Trouves if they please ; but if they take them home they are furnished with a supply of clothing. Works of different kinds are provided for them. A school for female practitioners in midwifery is at- tached to this hospital, and the pupils after a course of one or two years are examined by the Faculty of Medicine, and are allowed to practice on receiving a diploma. Some are ad- mitted gratuitously ; but they pay in general 600 fr. annually, during the courses. Strangers are not allowed to inspect the hospital, without a permission from the director. From hence the stranger may proceed to the HOPITAL MlLITAIRE AND CHURCH DU VAL DE GRACE, 277, rue St. Jacques. — The buildings of this hospital belonged to a convent of nuns, who were originally established at the Val Profond, near Bievre le Chatel, three leagues from Paris ; but transferred to the capital in 1621, by Anne of Austria, consort of Louis XIII. The community were at first lodged in the Hotel du Petit Bourbon, in the faubourg St. Jacques; but, a few years after this new establishment, the nuns began to build a regular convent, of which the Queen laid the first stone in 1624, and contributed about one-half of the expense. The Queen, having been married 22 years without issue, made vows in a great number of churches and chapels, an! among others in that of the Val de Grace, where she promised to build a church, if her desire to give an heir to the throne should be realised. At length, on the 6th of September, 1638, she gave birth to a prince, afterwards Louis XIV. After the death of Louis XIII. , the Queen determined to fulfil her vow. On the first of April, 1645, Louis XIV. laid the first stone of the church with great pomp. The celebrated Mansart fur- nished the plans, and superintended the execution of the 35 410 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMEXT. building for some time, but having lost the Queen's favour, it was entrusted to Lemercier, and subsequently lo Le Muet and Leduc. The exterior of this edifice does not equal the interior in architectural beauty : the curve of the dome is heavy, and the four campaniles, or little bell-turrets, that stand out from the gallery on which the dome rests, are too close to the body of the building, with which they are not made to barmonize. The west front has two ranges of co- lumns of the Corinthian and Composite orders, each covered with a pediment ; and is approached by a flight of large and wide steps. The plan of the church is that of a Latin cross, in the long arm of which, forming the nave, the public used to attend service, and in the shorter arms were chapels for the ladies of the convent. The intersection of the cross is formed in a circle, from whence four lofty arches open into the arms, and small chapels or passages into the intermediate spaces. Above rises the flrst domical vaulting, and from this springs the lofty gallery surmounted by the second dome and cupola. The western arm of the cross, or nave, has an aisle on each side, in which altars were formerly placed. The decorations of this as well as the other arms, and the circular part in the middle of the church, are of the Corinthian order, the capitals of the pilasters and all the ornaments being sculptured with great boldness and delicacy. In the spandrils of the arches of the nave are large figures representing the Christian virtues ; and the circular vaulting of its roof is covered with richly- decorated compartments filled with figures of saints. The pendentives of the lower dome contain circular compartments, in which are placed fine alto-rilievos of the four evangelists. The pilasters of the gallery supporting the second dome are of the Composite order; and the vault of the dome itself is painted on stone by Mignard, forming one of the finest frescos in France. Around the frieze below the gallery, is an inscrip- tion in golden letters commemorating the building of the church by Anne of Austria. The high altar is surmounted by a magnificent canopy supported by six spiral columns of grey marble, with bases, capitals, and foliage of bronze gilt. Four angels placed on the entablature of the columns hold censers; and from palm-branches resting on the same entablature are suspended small angels with scrolls bearing inscriptions. The whole is terminated by a globe and cross. In front of the altar, and in the centre of the intersection of the cross, the ST. MEDARD. 411 letters A. L. are inlaid with white marble in the pavement, which here, as well as throughout the whole of the edifice, is formed of the most precious marbles, without the mixture of any ordinary stone. The chapels for the nuns are separated from the rest of the building by iron gratings, and in that be- hind the altar, which is a beautiful piece of architecture, a crimson curtain screened the superiors of the convent from the view of the congregation. In the northern arm of the cross is the entrance to a vault where the superiors were buried, on marble shelves. The nuns were buried underneath the nave, in a vault, the entrance to which is near the western door. A small confessional, with a strong iron grating, opens into the church near the high altar, from one of the passages behind. The foundress bequeathed her heart to this church ; and the custom prevailed for some time after of sending hither the hearts of all the deceased members of the royal family. They were encased in silver, and deposited in the chapel of St. Anne. Under Napoleon the convent was converted into a military hospital, but the church, which was a general depot for the effects of hospitals of the same nature, fortunately escaped without damage from the fury of the Revolutionists. In 1826 it was repaired, and restored to divine worship. The stranger cannot fail to be interested in the historical associa- tions of the place, which was the favourite convent of the no- bility of France, and at the extraordinary sumptuousness of the decorations of the church. The hospital, which contains 1500 beds, may be visited on demanding permission : the church is open every day, and the vaults, etc. are show r n by a military attendant. On passing into the rue de 1' Arbalete, the visitor will find, at No. 13, the Ecole de Pharmacie.— This school occupies the site of an ancient convent called Hop i la I de l'Oursine; the new build- ings, which are plain but commodious, have been erected very lately. The first botanical garden that existed in France was formed in the grounds of this convent in 1580, on the model of that of Padua. Strangers may visit this establishment every day except Sunday. (See Public Institutions.) The visitor, on passing into the rue Houffetard, will find the church of St. Medard, third district church of 12th arrondissement —It was the parish church of the village of St. Medard, as #12 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. early as the 12th century, and was dependent on the abbey of Sle. Genevieve. The nave and aisles are of the end of the 45th century: the choir and aisles surrounding it are of the dates 4561, 1586, w hen many repairs and additions were made to the church. The tower, which has a very picturesque spire, is probably as old as the nave. In 1685 and 1784, the church was embellished, in the language of the time, and the barba- risms of its choir and chapels were then added. Some curious adaptations of Corinthian capitals, belonging to the former of these dates, may be remarked in the north aisle of the choir. The only pictures worthy of notice which it contains are a copy of a Dead Christ, by Vandyke, in the chapel of the Cru- cifixion; and a charming picture of Ste. Genevieve, by Wat- teau, in the chapel of that saint. The material deficiencies of this church are compensated by some very curious historical events connected with it. In 1561, a violent attack was made upon it by some Calvinists, after hearing a sermon in a neigh- bouring house. Several of the congregation in the church were killed, and much damage was done to the altars and windows. In 1727, the Abbe Paris was buried in the ceme- tery of this church, and in 1730 the convulsions at his tomb began, which gave rise to the sect of the Convulsionists. All the lamentable displays of religious extravagance caused by this sect took place in this church ; and the scandal occa- sioned by the scenes that occurred was only suppressed by closing the cemetery in 1732. The celebrated advocate Patru, called the French Quinlilian, and Nicole, the moralist, were also buried here. In the rue de l'Oursine, 97 bis, is the Maison de Refuge et de Travail pour V Extinction de la Mendicitc, a benevolent in- stitution founded in 1828. Poor persons are fed, lodged, and clothed here upon condition of working. Of their earnings, one-third goes to the house, one-third is reserved for a fund to be given to them on leaving the establishment, and the re- maining third is paid to them weekly. The house contains nearly 400 beds, and was originally a convent of nuns, Stran- gers may visit it on application to the porter. At the corner of the rue Censier is the Fontaine de Bacchus, so called from a figure placed in a circular aperture, holding a goat-skin, and offering water to the inhabitants of the fau- bourg St. IVlarceau, who, for the most part, are friends to a stronger beverage. GOBELINS. 413 The visitor now crosses the small stream of the Bievre (see Introduction, p. 32), the muddy and unwholesome waters of which are of great value to the numerous tanners and elvers, who have established themselves along its course from time immemorial. The bed of this river is going to be lined with masonry, and the supply of water so regulated that a stronger current may be produced, and all impurities removed. On turning into the rue du Fer a Moulin, the stranger will find a large open space, on the southern side of which is the Maison Scipion. -—Under the reign of Henry III., a rich Italian gentleman, named Scipion Sardini, built an hotel on this spot, which was purchased, in 1622, to form an asylum for aged and infirm men. In 1636, it was given to She HopitaL de la Salpetriere for its slaughter-house, baking-office, etc. It now forms a general bake-house for all the hospitals, the hospices, the Quinze-Vingls, and the Deaf and Dumb Asylum. Strangers are allowed to visit this immense establishment. Immediately opposite to this house, at the corner of the rue du Fer, and the rue des Fosses St. Marcel, are the New Anatomical Schools, built on the site of the ancient cemetery of Clamart, which has long been disused as a place of burial. These schools, consisting of well-ventilated gal- leries, one story high, lighted by sky-lights, are on a very extensive and commodious scale; and the bodies are now re- moved here from the hospitals for the instruction of the me- dical students. Eastward of this is the Cimetiere de Ste. Gatherine, in the rue des Francs Bourgeois St. Marcel. — It has been closed since the year 1815, and the only interesting monument is that erected to General Pichegru, who, as our reader will recollect, was implicated in a conspiracy against the life of Napoleon, interred here in 1804. Manufacture K ovale des Gobelins (Tapestry and Carpet Manufactory), 270, rue Mouffetard.— From the 14th century dyers of wool have been established in the Fau- bourg St. Marcel, upon the Bievre, the water of that small river being favourable to the process of dyeing. One of them , Jean Gobelin, who lived in 1450, amassed considerable wealth, and possessed much property upon the banks of that river. His descendants continued to labour with success; but having become very rich, they renounced the profession of dyers, and filled various offices in the state. To the Gobelin family suc- 35. 414 TWELFTH ARRONBISSEMENT. ceeded Messrs. Canaye, who did not confine themselves to the dyeing of wool, but began to manufacture tapestry, which until that period had been confined to Flanders. About 1655 they were succeeded by a Dutchman named Glucq, and a workman named Jean Lianscn, who excelled in the art. The establishment prospering, Louis XIV., at the suggestion of Colbert, determined to form it into a royal manufactory. The houses and gardens of the establishment were purchased in 1662. Skilful artists were attached to the manufactory, and, in 1667, the celebrated Lebrun was appointed director (1). The work-rooms are seven in number, and contain pieces of tapestry in different states of forwardness. In the work called the basse lisse, the loom is placed horizontally like that of the weaver; in the haute lisse the warp is vertical and the workman has his frame before him. Being placed behind the canvas on which he is employed, his back is turned towards the model, to which he occasionally refers, in order to com- pare the colour of his yarn with that part of the picture he is copying. The object of the process being to present as smooth and delicate a surface as possible, the ends of the woollen and silken threads, woven in with small spindles, are brought back to his hand by the workman, and all cuttings and fasten- ings on and off are performed behind the piece of work. Hence the necessity of his working on the wrong side. All the finest tints and the boldest touches of a Rubens are here daily imitated with admirable fidelity, and the effect of a picture so copied is equal to that of an oil painting without the disad- vantage of varnish. The apparatus for straining and elevating or lowering the frames is ingenious and well constructed. It requires occasionally the labour of from two to six years to finish a single piece of tapestry, the cost of which often amounts to 18,000 fr., and even at this rate the workmen, who are about 100 in number, are very inadequately paid. The productions of this manufactory, which is supported by the government, are chiefly destined for the royal palaces, or for presents made by the king ; those not intended for these purposes are allowed to be sold. Connected with the manu- factory is an establishment for dyeing wool, directed by able chemists, where an infinite number of shades, mostly unknown in trade, are dyed for the tapestry. There is also a drawing- (i) Lebrun painted his famous battles of Alexander the Great as models for this manufactory, GOBELINS* 415 school; and an annual course of lectures is delivered upon chemistry as applicable to dyeing. To this establishment has been annexed the celebrated carpet-manufactory, which was created a royal establishment in 1604, by Marie de Medicis, in favour of Pierre Dupont, who invented the process for finish- ing the carpels, and who was placed at its head with the tille of director. The workshops., originally placed in (he Louvre, were transferred, in 1615, to a soap-manufactory at Chaillot, and the establishment hence derived the name of La Savon- nerie. In 1826 it was joined to the Gobelins. The pieces manufactured here are placed perpendicularly, like the tapes- try de haute Usse; but with this difference, that in the latter the workman is placed on the wrong side, whilst in the former he has before him the right, as in tapestry de basse Usse. Here, since a downy surface is sought to be produced, the workman, in weaving, brings out loops and ends of woollen yarn towards his hand, and all the cutting, etc., takes place on the right side of the piece of work. The workman conse* quently requires to be placed on that side where he has to cut. The carpels Ihus manufactured are far superior to those of Persia in the evenness of their surface, the fineness, and, at the same time, the strength of their workmanship. Their colours and designs are inimitable, it is impossible to set any price upon them, as none are allowed to be sold; and there arecar» pels of which the manufacturing cost 40,000 fr. The largest carpet ever made is probably that manufactured at La Sa- vonnerie, for the gallery of the Louvre: it consists of 72 pieces, forming altogether a length of more than 1,300 feet. In one of the rooms of this establishment there is a collection of some of the finest productions of the establishment. The closeness with which the pictures of Rubens can be repro- duced will here principally strike the visitor's attention. For admission foreigners have only to present their passports: the days are Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 2 to 4 in winter, and from 2 to 6 in summer. In the roe des Trois Couronnes, leading to the south from the rue Mouffetard, at the corner of the rue des Marmouzels, is a house called sometimes the Maison de St. Louis, and, in the immediate neighbourhood, the Maison dela Heine Blanche, mother of that king. This idea is erroneous : the house is of the 15th century. The gateway, and a very elegant porch within, are in good preservation. The cellars are said to be 416 tWELFtfi ARRQXDISSEMEXT. exceedingly extensive. In the rue des Gobelins two houses of the same dale are also to be seen. From hence the visitor may proceed to the Barriere d' Ita- lic, by which the road to Fontainebleau and the south-east of France passes. Near to this is the Abattoir de Villejuif, so called from a small village without the walls of the town. In plan and appearance this slaughter-house is a counterpart of the other buildings appropriated to the same purpose. Northward along the Boulevard de l'Hopilal is the Marc he aux Chevaux. — This market was originally es- tablished on the Boulevard des Capucines t in 1604, by Henry IV., and was transferred hither, in 1642. In 1818 it was planted, and the ground arranged so as to form avenues for exercising the horses. In the middle are two plain fountains surmounted by lamps; between the avenues are stalls for se- parating the horses; and on one side is what is called an essai, formed of an artiflcial hill in a semicircular form, rising like an amphitheatre, above the level of the avenues, for the purpose of trying the strength and skill of draught-horses pre- vious to purchase. The animal is put to the proof by the wheel or wheels of a cart being clogged, and men pulling it behind to render it dilficult to be dragged. The market is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from noon till four o'clock in winter, and from noon till six in the summer. Horses for ordinary purposes are principally sold here ; those of a Gner description are not readily purchased. Mules and asses are also sold here. The purchaser will do well to be on his guard against deception, since roguery in horse-flesh is here the order of the day. The police regulations tend to diminish this evil as much as possible. On the eastern side of this Boulevard a new prison is on the point of being erected, which is intended to replace that of La Force. It will be on the most extensive scale, and will be so arranged that each prisoner will have a separate cell. The funds voted for it by the municipality of Paris amount to three millions and a hall' of francs. On the eastern side of this Boulevard is the Hospice de la Vieillesse, or La Salpetriere. — At the beginning of the reign of Louis XIV., the civil war had drawn an immense number of beggars to Paris ; and in 1656 the es- tablishment of a general hospital for their confinement was ordained. Extensive buildings, previously occupied as a salt- PONT d'austerlvtz. 417 petre-manufactory, were granted for that purpose and Liberal Bruant was charged to make the necessary alterations. The Hopital dela Salpetriere is 1,680 feet in length, and 1,164 in breadth ; its superficies are 108,640 square yards ; and all its arrangements are on a grand scale. The principal front to the north-west is above 600 feet in length, and is situated at the bottom of a court which serves for a promenade. In the centre of it is a vestibule leading to the church, a large and heavy building, not devoid of a certain air of grandeur from its immense size. Four naves, forming the arms of a cross, meet in a large circular space covered with a dome, into which, between the naves themselves, four large chapels also open. The naves are each 60 feet long, and the diameter of the cir- cular part is the same. The buildings of the hospital are not remarkable for any thing except their vast size. In 1662, from 9,000 to 10,000 paupers were admitted here. It is now exclusively appropriated to the reception of women, who are divided into five classes, viz: — 1, Reposans, or aged servants of the hospitals; 2, infirm, or 80 years of age; 3, those 70 years of age, or afllicted with incurable wounds ; 4, the sick ; 5, epileptic persons and lunatics. The total number of inmates, including 600 servants, is nearly 7,000. The lunatics, of whom there are about 600 dangerously mad, and 400 not so heavily afflicted, are kept in separate infirmaries, and are treated with the greatest care and attention. The latter are allowed to amuse themselves in the occupations they choose, especially in gardening, and many recoveries of reason are known to lake place. There is a small market within the walls of this establishment, where the prices of goods are regulated by the administration of the hospital. The kitchen, laundry, pharmacy, etc., are all on a most extensive scale, and a visit to this hospital cannot but be highly interesting and gratifying to every lover of humanity. Strangers are readily admitted on applying at the porter's lodge. On the quay eastward of this hospital, at No. 55, is the Depot des Laines et Lavoir Public, an establishment formed in 1813, to perfect the dressing of wool, a sale of which takes place here daily. Returning westward along the river, the visitor comes to The Pont d'Austerlitz, which was begun in 1801, and finished in 1807 by Beaupre and Lamande. It is exceedingly light and elegant in appearance; and received the name of 41S TWELFTH" ARROjVDISSEMEKX. Austerlitz, in memory of the victory gained by the French, December 2, 1805, over the Russians and Austrians. Upon the second entrance of the allied armies, the name was changed to Pont du Roi, and since to Pont du Jar din des Planles. Its length between the abutments is 400 feet, and its breadth 37 ; the piles and abutments are of stone founded upon piles, and its five arches are of cast iron. It cost three millions of francs, and was the second bridge of iron constructed in Paris. The visitor has now arrived at the Musee d'Histoire Naturelle, atthe Jardin des Plantes. — At the solicitation of Herouard, his chief physician, and Guy de la Brosse, physician in ordinary, Louis XIII. founded the Jardin des Plantes, in 1626; but the edict did not appear till May 1035. Several distinguished men, among whom may be reckoned Guy de la Brosse, Duverney, Tournefort, Vail- lant, Bernard de Jussieu, and Cyslernay du Fay, contributed greatly to the prosperity of the establishment, previous to the appointment of Buffon, in 1739, to the functions of superin- tendent. That celebrated naturalist devoted himself with per- severing zeal to the interests of the garden ; and before his death, in 1788, the names of Daubenlon, Antony de Jussieu, Winslow, Antony Petit, Faujas de St. Fond, Van Spaendonck, Desfonlaines, Fourcroy, and Portal, shed lustre upon the esta- blishment. At the Revolution, the universities, the faculties of medicine, law, etc. being suppressed, there was reason to fear that the king's garden would be involved in the general proscription ; but, as it was considered national properly, and visitors of all classes were equally well received, and as the people believed the garden to be destined for the culture of medicinal plants, and the laboratory of chemistry to be a ma- nufactory of saltpetre, it was respected. During the reign of terror, and up to the time of Napoleon, the institution continued to be greatly neglected and abused for want of funds. But on his arriving at the head of affairs a new impulse was given to this establishment, and the only temporary check which it re- ceived was in 1814 and 1815, when there was reason to fear that the foreign troops who occupied Paris would destroy the garden : by a special convention it was however protected from all injury. The magnificent cabinet of the Stadlholder was claimed, but it was afterwards agreed that an equivalent should be furnished from the duplicates of the museum. Se- veral valuable gems were returned to the Pope ; and many JARDIN DES PLA.NTES. 419 objects of natural history and books belonging to emigrants were restored . Since that time, however, the support of this museum has been munificently provided for by the stale; large funds are annually voted for the professors and pupils of the institution, and its condition was never so flourishing as at the present moment. (See Public Institutions.) H is under the control of the Minister of the Interior ; and consists of, 1st, a botanical garden, with spacious hot-houses and green-houses ; 2d, several galleries, in which are scientifically arranged col- lections belonging to the three kingdoms of nature ; 3d, a gal- lery of anatomy; 4th, a gallery of botany ; 5th, a menagerie of living animals; 6th, a library of natural history ; and 7th, an amphitheatre, with laboratories, etc. for public lectures on every branch of science connected with natural history. Garden.— -Upon arriving at the gate by the quay, the cabinet of natural history is seen at the opposite extremity of the garden. On the right and left are two fine avenues of lime trees; and beyond these, on the right, the menagerie, extending to the rue de Seine ; on the left are groves of forest-trees, bordering the rue de Buffon. In front are beds of various smaller plants, nurseries, etc. that extend the whole length of the garden. The first four beds contain medicinal plants; two indigenous plants, and two exotics. The two next contain duplicates of the most beautiful perennial plants of the bota- nical garden ; and in the two last are cultivated plants for domestic uses, and border-flowers. We now arrive at a sunk bed inclosed by an iron railing. From the beginning of the spring to the end of the summer, it presents a splendid display of roses, lilacs, fontanesias, etc. We next cross an alley, and arrive at the nursery, which is also surrounded by an iron railing. On the south is a bed in which such plants are culti- vated as require peculiar care. Beyond the nursery are two beds inclosed with a trellis, and devoted to the multiplication and naturalization of such foreign perennial plants as pass the winter without shelter in our climate. On the left hand, to the east of the avenue, are plantations of forest trees of all countries, and of other plants that pass the winter in this cli- mate. Here too is established a cafe for the accommodation of visitors. At the south eastern part of the garden will be per- ceived, parallel to the avenue of that side, the new geological and mineralogical gallery. On the right, and to the west of the avenue on that side, are inclosures of fruit trees, and hot 420 TWELFTH ARUONDISSEMENT. beds; while on the rising ground at the south-western end of the avenue is a magnificent series of conservatories built of iron, with an extraordinary extent of glass, arranged in the most scientific manner. They are warmed with hot water, and are sufficiently large to receive the tall plants of tropical countries and of the Australian islands. Between the con- servatories is a path conducting to two hills. One called the labyrinth, from ils numerous intricate paths, is of a conical shape. On the ascent is a cedar of Lebanon, the first seen in France, which Collinson, a wealthy English physician, pre- sented to the garden in 1734. From this elevated spot a view extends over the garden, the greater part of Paris, and the distant landscape in the direction of Montraartre, Vincennes, and Sceaux. On the eastern slope is a small inclosure, in the centre of which a simple granite column, resting on a base of different minerals, marks the grave of Daubenton. The western hill is a complete nursery of fir-trees, nearly all the known species of which are planted upon its sides. At the foot of this hill is a Spacious enclosure, in front of the amphi- theatre, with the botanical gallery, the residence of the admi- nistrators and some professors, and a gate leading into the rue dc Seine, on the left. The enclosure is used for the exposure, during the fine weather, of the most beautiful trees of New Holland, the Gape of Good Hope, Asia Minor, and the Coast of Barbary, which have passed the winter in the green-house. At the door of the amphitheatre are two beautiful Sicilian palms, 25 feet in height, which were presented to Louis XIV. Near the amphitheatre is the entrance of the menagerie. The varied surface of the ground, the diversity of the plantations, and the singularity of the constructions, give the appearance of a landscape garden to this part of the establishment, where a great number of foreign trees have been naturalized. Menagerie, — When Louis XIV. fixed his residence at Ver- sailles, the Academy of Sciences solicited him to establish a menagerie in the magnificent park belonging to his palace. This menagerie continued to be enriched under the reigns of Louis XV. and XVI. The latter monarch being obliged to quit Versailles, the animals were neglected, and several of them perished for want of food. Those which remained were removed to the Museum in 1794. Some were placed in tern- porary buildings, others in the groves, and the plan of a me- nagerie was immediately laid out ; but it was only by degrees JARDIN DES PL ANTES. 421 that the necessary ground was obtained, and the enclosure did not attain its present extent till a few years ago. The space appropriated to tame animals is divided into numerous parks or enclosures. These parks, round which the public can walk, are subdivided into converging compartments, each ter- minated by one side of a central building, into which the animals retire at will in the day-time, and are shut up during the night. At the extremity of these parks, and near the river, is the building for the wild beasts. The dens, 21 in number, are sufficiently large for the animals to gambol and show themselves with advantage to the public, who are sepa- rated from them by a space of four feet and a strong iron rail- ing. The collection of wild animals includes lions, many varieties of the bear, tigers, leopards, hyamas, wolves, etc. Among the parks appropriated to the tamer animals is one called the rotunda, from a large building erected in the middle. Here are two elephants, a giraffe, the North American bison, etc. The other parks contain a great variety of the deer and antelope species, as well as numerous individuals of the va- rious tribes of goats and sheep from Asia, Corsica, etc. In them there are camels, zebras, and their related species, ostriches, cassowaries, and a large collection of water-birds. The pheasant-house contains numerous varieties of that tribe of birds : it is a pretty semicircular building, and is divided into ample, and airy cages. The voleric is destined for the birds of prey, and possesses a very large and valuable series of the eagle and vulture tribes, among which those of Egypt and South America will be particularly noticed. The monkeys are kept in a new stone building of much elegance, and form a very large family, comprising a great proportion of all tiie species at present known. The chief curiosity of this tribe of animals is the ouran-oulang, of which species a very fine in- dividual has been lately presented to the museum. It is kept apart from all the rest, and on its first arriving was exceed- ingly docile and good tempered Between the parks and the botanical garden are three deep paved courts with cells, where bears afford much amusement to the public. In these pits are sometimes a number of wild boars, which generally unpave them. The menagerie having successively possessed a great number of foreign animals, which have been dis- sected, has given rise to most important researches in com- parative anatomy. It has enriched the collections with many 36 422 TWELFTH ARR0NDI5SEMENT. new species, and has enabled the zoologist to study the instinct, intelligence, and habits of animals ; the influence of education, confinement, domesticity, and change of nourishment ; the phenomena relative to their gestation, to the care which they take of their young, and to the development and propaga- tion of certain qualities, which in process of time constitute peculiar races. A large addition has lately been made to the space allotted for the menagerie, and this part of the establish- ment may be expected to receive considerable further deve- lopment. Cabinet of Natural History. — The building which bears the name of Cabinet or Gallery of Natural History is 390 feet in length. It fronts the east on the side of the garden, from which it is separated by a court and an iron railing. It is three storeys in height, but is very plain in the style of its archi- tecture. The cabinet is divided into the following sections: — 1, geological collection; 2, minerals; 3, mammalia ; 4, birds; 5, reptiles ; 6, fishes ; 7, articulated animals ; 8, inar- ticulated invertebrated animals. Geological Collection. — This immense and invaluable collection was until lately contained in the building just mentioned. It is now about to be placed in the new gallery built for it on the south-eastern side of the garden, and which is 350 feet in length, by about 50 in width. Along its internal walls cases, from 8 to 10 feet in height, are arranged ; and the roof is supported by rows of Corinthian columns, leaving a long gallery in the middle, in which are to be placed the cases of the mineralogical collec- tion. The geological specimens are all classed according to the date of the formations in which they are found. The greater number are accompanied by a portion of the rock which con- tained them ; and a very fine collection of rocks regularly classed forms part of the collection. The series of specimens of invertebrated animals is peculiarly rich": the fossil fishes will also occupy a great number of cases. The specimens of the terliary formations are remarkably fine, and arc relics of the exertions of the great Cuvier, to whom the whole of this part of the museum may be said t« owe its existence. The directors of the museum with great liberality have presented plaisler casts, accurately coloured from the originals, of the more important or the rarer fossils, to foreign institutions, and have received similar presents in return. Since the whole is shortly to bd arranged in the gallery above mentioned, a JARDIN DES PLANTES. 423 further description of the contents cannot as yet be given. Collection of Minerals, — The inineralogical collection is di- vided into four grand classes, according to the system of M. Hauy, viz.: — 1, earthy substances, containing an acid, the salts of former systems; 2, earthy substances or stones; 3, inflammable substances ; 4, metals. Of the first two classes of minerals, the most interesting specimens are the phosphate, filiate, nitrate, and arseniate of lime ; a fine crystal of Ice- landic calcareous spar ; metastatic crystals from Derbyshire; satin spar; the aluminous tluate of silex, which furnishes se- veral precious stones for jewellery; the borate of soda; and the alkaline fluate of alumine or cryolite. Several of these specimens, particularly of the yellow, red, and white topaz, are remarkably beautiful. The second class of minerals, namely, that of stones or earthy substances, are hyaline quartz, the rose-coloured or Bohemian ruby, the blue, the yellow (or Indian) topaz ; the yellow-brown, or smoked topaz ; the dark green, the dull red agates, among which we may dis- tinguish chalcedony, cornelian, sardonyx, quartz resinite ; the sanguine jasper; the corundum, including the ruby, topaz, and Oriental sapphire ; the chrysoberyl, the chrysolite, the emerald, the beryl, the cordienle, the euclase, and the garnet; felspar ; the tourmaline, amphibole, and pyroxene ; lapis lazuli ; some large slabs of mica, etc. Among various objects belonging to this collection are a superb vase of the brec- cialed porphyry of the Yosges, two very large groups of crystals of colourless quartz ; several cups of agate, chalce- dony, and jasper of different colours, another of rock crystal, a cup of lapis lazuli ; a great number of different slabs of marbles polished, etc. Among the inflammable substances and the metals, the specimens to be noticed are, native sulphur, some superb groups of Iranslucid crystals, a series of diamonds, rough and cut, solid and liquid bitumen, and yellow amber. Of the latter, several pieces contain insects enveloped by the amber when in its liquid state, without injuring their form. In the class of metallic substances are specimens of gold and silver, among which should be noticed a piece of massive gold Irorn Peru, which weighs 16 J£ ounces; a fine specimen of native silver from Mexico, and the different combinations of silver with sulphur and antimony, and the carbonic and mu- riatic acids; specimens of plalina ; quicksilver; lead, in every combination of form and colour; the different varieties of 424 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. copper ; a numerous collection of aerolites; iron ores; various specimens of oxide of tin, zinc, and bismuth; arsenic, man- ganese, antimony, uranium, molybdena, titanium, tungsten, tellurium, and chrome. The collection of minerals is one of the most precious in existence, on account of the great num- ber of choice specimens which it possesses, and the order in which they are distributed. The riches of this division of the institution were greatly augmented in 1825, by a present made by Charles X. of a fine mineralogical collection pur- chased by the civil list for three hundred thousand francs ; and continual additions by gift or purchase are being made to it. Collection of Mammalia. — Ascending to the upper storey of the Cabinet, we enter the rooms which contain the zoological collections. The first three rooms and that at the farthest end contain the mammalia, arranged according to the system of Baron Cuvier. The intermediate gallery is occupied by the birds and animals w ithout vertebra?. The number of mam- malia amounts to upwards of 1,500 individuals, belonging to more than 500 species. The 1st room contains the family of monkeys, including several species of the ouran-outang ; families of apes, — the black ape, the howling apes, the sakis or night-apes, numerous species of small monkeys, the lemurs. Passing into the 2d room, we see the different species of bats, the bears, the long-nosed coatis, the badgers, the northern glutton, the European and American otters, the most remark- able of which is the sea-olter ; different varieties of dogs, and various species of w r olves : numerous species of foxes, hyaenas, seals, sea-lion, sea-elephant, the Arctic walrus (vulgarly called the sea-cow), the armadillo of America ; the manis, the ant- eaters ; the orycteropus or ground-hog ; the American tapir ; the ornithorynchus, the large flattened muzzle of which re- sembles the bill of a duck ; numerous species of the cat genus, comprehending lions, tigers, leopards, lynxes, etc. The 3d room contains numerous species of the mangouste, one of which is the ichneumon; the didelphis, or animals with a pouch, comprehending opossums, kangaroos, etc. ; the ro- denlia, to the number of 100 species; those most worthy of attention are the beaver, the dormouse, the hamster, the chin- chilla, and the alactaga; 23 species of squirrels, among which is the flying squirrel; the porcupines; and numerous species and varieties of hares and rabbits. The last case of this room is filled by sloths. After having passed through the gallery JARDIN DES P ..ANTES. 425 where the birds are placed, we enter the room which con- tains the order ruminantia. In the middle of the room are theauroch, the dromedary, the camel, the Canadian stag, and the elk, the vicunna, the lama, the musk-deer, the moschus pygmseus, and numerous species of the genus cervus ; the Bar- nary antelope, the steinbock, the plunging goat of the Cape, the griesi30ck, the woolly antelope, and many specimens of the same family ; several varieties of the goat, among which is the ibex ; and various races of sheep. These rooms, although spacious, being found inadequate to contain the whole of toe collection of mammalia, a considerable number of the animals have been placed in a gallery on the ground-floor, through which the visitor passes upon leaving the museum by the ex- tremity opposite to that where the principal staircase is situ- ated. Here are the Arabian horse; the Baskir horse, co- vered with long white hair; elephants; rhinoceroses; hip- popotami; etc. Collection of Birds. — On leaving the gal- lery of ruminating animals, we re-enter that of birds. The collection comprehends upwards of 6,000 individuals belong- ing to more than 2,300 different species. Almost all are in a perfect state of preservation, and such means have been found of preparing them that they never change. There is not so numerous a collection existing anywhere else. The gallery which contains it is divided into 57 cases with shelves, on which the birds are arranged in a manner best adapted to their display. To the left, on entering the gallery from that of the ruminating animals, we see the vulture genus, including many specimens at various ages ; the numerous species of birds united under the generic name of faico, and which comprehends the eagle of different countries, the falcons, a large family, the kites, hawks, buzzards, pyrargus, etc. Next come a considerable number of species of the nocturnal birds of prey, comprising the whole of the owl tribe ; and the beau- tiful and numerous family of parrots, divided into cockatoos, lorys, aras, parrots, and perroquets. We then see the toucans, the wrynecks, and the woodpeckers; the cuckoos, among which should be noticed the blue cuckoo of Madagascar, the copper-coloured cuckoo of the Cape, and the golden andklaas cuckoos; the numerous family of the shrikes, of which there are some remarkably beautiful foreign species; the breves from India, adorned with the most beautiful colours; the ant- thrushes, which live on enormous ant-hills in the forests and 36. 426 TWELFTH AkRONDISSESIfcNT. deserts of America; the merlins, including the while black- bird ; the rose-coloured thrush ; the azure thrush of Java ; the white-breasted thrush from Senegal, and the guinea-thrush, or magpie of Paradise; the philedons ; the motacillae, includ- ing the finches, the wrens, etc. Next come the drongos, the cotingas, or chatterers ; the numerous family of the fly-catchers ; many species of the genus tyrannus, the uphones, the tana- gers of America, the manakinsfrom the equinoctial forests of America ; the titmice, and the goat-suckers ; the numerous genus of the swallows, the larks, the starlings, and the cassi- cus. The nests of the latter should not escape observation. Farther on are the numerous family of buntings, sparrows, linnets, goldfinches, widow-birds, the birds of Paradise, the jays, different species of pies and crows ; the sky-blue pie of Pa- raguay, and the pie from the Brazils ; the hoopoes, the creepers, and the humming-birds. We then meet with the king-fishers and horn-bills; the numerous varieties of the domestic pigeon and the cognate species, several of which are highly deserving of attention; the peacocks, the turkeys, the hoccos, from the warm countries of America, analogous to turkeys; different races of domestic fowls, and several wild species from India, and the Moluccas; the pheasant genus, among which arc the golden-pheasant, the superb Argus-pheasant; the numerous family of the grouse; the ostriches; the cassowaries. Next come the bustards, the plovers, the lapwings, the oyster- catchers, and the ibis, the most celebrated species, being that worshipped by the Egyptians. We then see the woodcocks ; ihc ruffs ; (he reeves ; the sand-pipers ; the boat-bills ; the bittern; the crane genus, including the sun-bird ; the agawl, or trumpeter of South America ; the royal or crowned crane ; the storks; fowls; sea-partridges; flamingoes; the sultans, remarkable for the beauty of their plumage; a rare bird, known by the name of the scabbard-beak ; the stormy petrels ; the tempest birds, the gull lamily, etc. ; a large bird called the Cape-sheep, on account of its size, colour, and gregarious habits; the pelicans; the frigate-birds, whose wings measure from 10 to 12 feet; the tropic-birds, and the numerous tribes of the mergus order, including every variety of swans, geese, etc., from all parts of the world. The collection of birds is one of the most complete in existence ; and the spectacle which they afford is one of the most beautiful and interesting in the museum, Oa the walls of the staircase, which leads to JARDIN DES PLANTES. 427 the two rooms below, are expanded the skins of large ser- pents of the boa genus, the colours and scales of which are well preserved. In these rooms are placed the collection of reptiles, unquestionably the richest in the world. It consists of 1,800 individuals, belonging- to more than 500 species. Reptiles are divided into four orders, namely chelonians, or tortoises ; saurians, which comprehend the crocodiles, lizards, etc.; ophidians, or serpents; and batracians, to which the toads, the frogs, the salamanders, etc., are referred. Of the first three orders there are some too large to be placed in the cases, and they have therefore been suspended from the ceil- ing or the wail. Among these should be noticed the leather- torloise, or lule of the Mediterranean; the green tortoise; the caretla, which furnishes the tortoise-shell employed in the arts ; the great emyd from Cayenne; the soft tortoise of theNile; the crocodile of theNile ; the crocodile with a slender muzzle ; the gavial or long-muzzled crocodile ; thebicarinated crocodile from India; the pike-muzzled caiman ; the caiman with bony eyelids ; the ouaranof theNile ; the dragon of Cayenne ; the safe-guard of America ; the iguana of South America ; the boas ; the pythons ; the rattle-snake; the yellow or spear-headed viper, and the lachesis of Cayenne. Round the room are a great number of species of the tortoise family; the crocodiles, the lizards, the basilisks, or long- tailed lizards, the iguanas, the anolis, the geckos, the camelcons, thescinks, the slow-worms, the boas, and almost every kind of snakes of different countries; the horned viper, the concilia, the green and brown frog, the bull- frog, the Cayenne frog, the tree frog, the common toad, the rush toad, the alliaceous toad, the toad of Surinam, the sala- mander, the triton, the crested-triton, the axolotl of Mexico, the anguine siren, and the eel-shaped siren. Most of the rep- tiles are preserved in spirits of wine. Collection of Fishes. — This collection comprehends about 5,000 individuals be- longing to more than c 2,500 species: of each species it gene- rally possesses one preserved in spirits of wine. The dried fish have been varnished, which has preserved their colours. In the gallery of the ground-floor, among the quadrupeds, is the backing shark (squalus maximus). In the cases we meet with the lamprey, the shark, the dog-fish, with olher species of the shark tribe; the torpedos; the chhnaera, or king of the herrings, the chimera of the Antarctic seas, the sturgeon, the sea-porcupine, the sun-fish, the salmon, the trout, the piraya 42$ TWFXTTII ARRONDISSEMIWT. of South America, the herring, the sprat, the anchovy, the king-fish of the Carribee Islands, the sabre-fish, the bony scaled pike, the common pike, the flying-fish, the carp, the gonorbyncus, the loche, the anabieps, the family of the cy- prini, the family of the siluroideae, the cod, the whiting, the turbot, the dab, the sole, the family of the dlscolobi; the eel, the gymnotus, the electrical gymnotns, the rainbow- fish, and other species of the labrus, the parrot-fish ; the family of the sparoidcee; the family of the perch, some of which are very curious; the mackarel, the tunny, the pilot, the sword-fish, the dolphin. Collection of articulated animals without ver- tebra. — This collection consists of about 25,000 species, and is divided into five classes, namely : — the Crustacea?, the arachnides, the insects, the annelides, and the worms. On entering the gallery of the birds by the small staircase, we must turn to the right to reach the saloon of the carnivorous quadrupeds. The crustaceous animals are placed vertically in the upper part of the cases, which stand in the middle of the room. Those which were too large to enter the frames are placed in glazed boxes on the cornices of the cases which contain the carnivorous animals. Among them are a series of lobsters, crawfish, and crahs. In the cases in the middle of the room are crabs of various species, scorpions, spiders, beetles, in all their varieties; flies of all kinds; piscatoria ; the family of the maidaneae, and intestinal worms, among which are some taken from the human body, the horse, the sheep, and the human liver. Collection of inarticulated ani- mals without vertebrce. — This class comprehends the shells, the echini, and the polypi. The animals belonging to certain shells are preserved in spirits of wine ; those of a large size, as also the naked mollusca, are placed at the bottom of the third division of the chest of drawers, immediately after the collection of insects. The mollusca form two divisions: uni- valves, or those whose shell is formed of only one piece; and bivalves, or those whose shell consists of two pieces. The first division consists of aquatic and terrestrial; but all those of the second are aquatic. Among those most entitled to no- tice are the nautilus, the ammonite, the belemnite, the cone, the olive, the cypraea, the ovula, the music-shell, the Chinese parasol, the razor-shell, the tridachna, the ducal mantle, the saddle oyster, and the duck's bill. Besides the shells enume- rated, the conchologist will find an almost infinite number of JARDIN BKS PLANTES. 4*29 others remarkable for (heir form or colours. Next to the shells are the turiiciers, marine animals without heads, and not symmetrical. Then come the radiaria, including the star- fish, and the Medusa's heads. The echini, or urchins, have a calcareous shell covered with long spines, and pierced with a great number of little holes. Of this collection, as well as that of the polypi, the number of specimens is extremely great. Of the tubipores, madrepores, millepores, corallines, and sponges, the variety is very complete. Cabinet of Comparative Anatomy. — For this collection, in- comparably the richest in existence, the museum is indebted to the unwearied exertions of Baron Guvier, by whom it was arranged, and under whose direction most of the objects were prepared. The number of rooms is 15. The 1st, on the ground-floor, contains skeletons of the horse, the zebra, and the ass tribe, the wild boar, tapirs, rhinoceroses, etc. In the next room are skeletons of the elephant family from various countries, the cameleopard, the bear, lions, hyaenas, and wolves, with many varieties of the dog species. There are various sea animals, among which is a sea-cow, brought from tho Polar regions by Captain Parry. In the middle of the room are three whales from the Cape. To the left of this large gallery, and parallel with it, are three others filled with skeletons of ruminating quadrupeds. In the 1st, are those of the buffalo, the ox, sheep, goat, and antelope ; in the 2d, those of the slag tribe, including the eik, etc.; and in the 3d, those of the dromedary, lama, camel, and vicunna. By retracing our steps and crossing the gallery containing the whales, we enter a room occupied by human skeletons of dif- ferent ages and nations : including those of some persons ce- lebrated either for size or deformity, such as Bebe, the King' of Poland's dwarf, the Hottentot Venus, etc. A series of festal skeletons shows the growth from the first month of conception to the birth. On the shelves we see on one side human skulls, from one day old to a hundred years ; and on the other, skulls remarkable for their conformation, most of them brought from the Catacombs. On tables in the middle of the room are several heads of the elephant from Asia. From the walls of the staircase leading to the first floor are suspended many heads of the horse, the stag, the dol- phin, the hippopotamus, and several species of the ox tribe. The first room above stairs is devoted to a series of entire 430 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. heads of vertebrated animals, a great number of those of the human species, Europeans, Tartars, Chinese, New Zealanders, Negroes, Hottentots, and of several American nations; all the monkeys, and various heads of the carnivorous animals, and of elephants, buffaloes, etc. Near them is the skull, found in an Egyptian tomb, of the bos apis. The 2d room on the same floor contains, on the right, heads of birds, fishes, and reptiles, among which are three of the crocodile of the Ganges. The remainder of this room, as well as two smaller ones at the bottom of the staircase, which serves as a second entrance to the cabinet, are occupied with separate bones for the purpose of study, in glass cases are placed all the bones of which the head is composed; and the visitor will be asto- nished at the prodigious number of bones that form the head of a fish. In some of the adjoining rooms are series of all (he large bones and the vertebra? of different animals. In the 3d room are skeletons of the small quadrupeds. Above the cases are affixed to the wall the horns of the ruminant i a ; and on both tables are methodically arranged a complete series of teeth from man to the horse. In the fourth room we see the skeletons of birds. The last two cases contain the tortoises. The series of teeth, beginning with those of the horse, and terminating with those of fishes, is here continued in small boxes placed on the tables. Above the cases we see the skele- tons of four large crocodiles. The skeletons of the reptiles, such as lizards, serpents, toads, frogs, and salamanders, and a great number of species of fish, occupy the cases in the 5th room. On the top of the cases are two skeletons of the boa constrictor; those of a shark and of a sword-fish, and a series of snouts of the saw-fish; and jaws of several species of sharks, the ray, etc. On the tables in this room are the dried larynx, and hyoid bones of birds and quadrupeds. The 6th room is devoted to myology. In the centre is a cast of the human body deprived of the skin, with the muscles painted of the natural colour. The cases on one side display small figures in wax of human arms and legs. On the other are the limbs of many quadrupeds ; and in the remaining cases the dissected muscles of several animals preserved in spirits. The 7th room contains the organs of sensation. The larynx and trachea of birds are also seen on the tables of this room. The cases contain flagons in which are preserved in spirits a series of brains and eyes; also the bones of the ear of all animals, from JAHDIN DES PLANTES. 431 man to reptiles and fish. Preparations of the viscera in general, but more particularly those belonging to the function of di- gestion, are placed in the eighth room. In a large glass case is a model in wax of the internal oeconoiny of a child ; and in another that of the anatomy of the hen, exhibiting the several periods of the formation of the egg, as well as the internal organs of the fowl. The 9th room is devoted to the organs of circulation, and those of the different secretions. It contains a series of hearts of mammalia, reptiles, and fishes ; some in- jected preparations; and some very delicate foetal prepara- tions of vivaparous and oviparous animals. On the table there are injected and dried viscera. The 10th and last room con- tains a series of monstrosities and foetuses of different ages ; preparations of different orders of mollusca ; articulated ani- mals and zoophytes; and preparations of shell-fish in wax. The number of the preparations is nearly 14,000. Botanical Gallery, — This collection is placed in three rooms of a building at the foot of the labyrinlh, and near the gate leading to the rue de Seine. The first, or wood-room, contains divers specimens of epidermis, bark, roots, stems, thorns, pith, etc., and several very interesting collections of wood. The 2d, or herb-room, contains a general herbal, con- sisting of about 25,000 species of plants. This herbal was founded by Vaillant, and has been gradually augmented by the plants collected by Commerson, Dambey, Mace, Poiteau, Leschenault, etc. Here also are special herbals of New Hol- land, Cayenne, the Antilles, the Gape, India, Egypt, etc. This room possesses also special herbals, which served as the model for printed works ; such as that of Michaux ; that of the Plants of France, byM. de Candolle ; that of M. de Humboldt, etc. The ancient herbal of Tournefort, arranged and ticket- ed by his hand, or that of Gundelsheimer, has been carefully preserved. The stranger will not forget to notice here two fine collections of the mushroom family, in wax; the one presented to the museum by the emperor of Austria, and the other by Charles X. The latter was executed by De Pinson, and is valued at 20,000 fr. A collection of models of foreign fruits, in wax or plaster, is also entitled to attention. The 5th, or fruit-room, contains 20 glass cases, 12 of which are filled with fruits preserved dry, or in spirits of wine ; in the other the various productions used in medicine or the arts. The whole collection of drugs of the Garden of Plants, with con- 432 TWELFTH AKROXBISSEMENT. siderable additions, is kept in this room, and a very interest- ing collection of fossil plants from the various coal forma- tions, arranged by M. Ad. Brongniart, has been placed in the centre. Library. — The library occupies a separate building, in which Buffon resided, contiguous to the railing which separates the garden from the court. It is composed of works upon natural history. Most of the printed works are to be met with in every public library, but the manuscripts, accompanied with ori- ginal designs, and the magnificent paintings of fruit and flowers, upon vellum, form an unrivalled collection. The number of volumes is about 13,000. It is almost needless to add that the Musee d'Histoire Na- turelle stands at the head of all institutions of the kind not only in France but in the world ; and that this superiority is not only marked by a very wide interval, but has never been contested. The most curious, because the most rare, part of it is the Cabinet of Comparative Anatomy ; but the Cabinet of Natural History is equally precious, and still more com- plete. It would require many weeks to inspect this im- mense museum in detail, and many years to acquire sufficient scientific knowledge to be able to appreciate its contents as they deserve. As a body of naturalists the professors of this institution are most illustrious, and the names of Buffon and Cuvier at once stamp its reputation with the seal of immor- tality. For hours of admission, etc., see Public Institutions, pp. 79,80. Behind the Jardin des Plantes is the Hopital de la Pitie, 1, rue Copeau. — This hospital was founded in 1612, for the reception of paupers, and is so called because its chapel was dedicated to Notre Dame de la Pitie. In 1657, it was appropriated as an asylum for the children of beggars. It afterwards was opened for the reception of or- phans and foundlings, who, during the Revolution, were called eleven de la patrie. In 1809, the Hopital de la Pitie was an- nexed to the Hotel Dieu. The buildings are spacious, and contain 900 beds. Strangers are admitted on applying at the porter's lodge. Opposite to this is the Fontaine St. Victor, rue St. Victor. — This fountain was built in 1671, after the designs of Bernini, against one of the boundary towers of the enclosure of the Abbey of St. Victor, HALLE AUX VINS. 433 This tower of the 15th century still remains entire, and is the only relic of the magnificent abbey to which it belonged. The stranger may end his tour by examining the Halle aux Vms, Quai St. Bernard.— This wine-market, established in 1656, beyond the Porte St. Bernard, had long been found insufficient for the commerce of the capital, when Napoleon ordered the construction of one much more exten- sive, upon the site of the celebrated abbey of St. Victor. The first stone was laid on the 15th of August, 1813. The works, begun under the direction of Gaucher, were carried on at first with great activity, were relaxed during 1815 and the two following years, but have since been finished. The ground on which the Halle aux Tins is constructed has a superficies of about 26,000 square metres. It is inclosed with walls on three sides, and towards the quay is fenced by an iron railing nearly 800 metres in length. This magnificent market, the finest in Europe, is divided into streets called after differ- ent kinds of wine, as follows : — rue de Champagne, rue •de Bourgogne, rue de Bordeaux, rue de Languedoc, and rue de la Cote d'Or. On the side next the quay are six offices for those who superintend the entrance and departure of the wines, and a great number of wine-merchants' counting- houses. The piles of building are seven in number, four in front and three in the back ground. The whole will contain together about 400,000 casks. But this calculation having been made on the supposition that there would be only one row of casks above the ground-floor, this vast magazine might contain, if necessary, double that quantity. In the back- ground is a pile appropriated to brandies. In its construction there is neither wood nor iron ; but as stone for the roof would have been found too heavy, a new kind of hollow brick about six inches long was invented. In the halle there is also a bureau de depotage, containing measures of all the casks of the different parts of France ; and purchasers of casks may have them measured here if they wish it. Wines enter- ing this depot do not pay the duty of the octroi until they are sold out of it; but are liable to a charge of one franc for warehouse-room, etc. The number of casks that enter in one day is frequently 1,500. The halle is open to the public from 6 to 6 in the summer, and from 7 to 5 in winter. An immense quantity of the commoner wines is always lying on the quay in front of this market. A new bridge is on the 37 434 THEATRES. point of being constructed from the Isle Louviers to the Quai St. Bernard, opposite the Halle aux Vins. It will consist of 3 arches, and will he built of stone and iron like the Pont du Carrousel, PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. THEATRES. The drama in France and England look ils rise in both countries from the mysteries, or sacred dramas, which were represented by pilgrims returned from Judea. In Paris a company was formed in the time of the crusades, which took the name of Confreres de la Passion, who, for a long period, performed with success. With sacred subjects they asso- ciated indecent gestures and licentious allusions of the most re- volting description; but the interest inspired by the novelty of the representations given by the Confreres de la Passion having subsided, they united with a new troop called Enfans sans souci, who acted farces enlivened with songs. About the year 1570, several Italian companies came to Paris, but their representations exciting the jealousy of the Confreres de la Passion, whose privileges were always highly respected by the Parlement, their continuance was not of long duration. Shortly afterwards the French stage began to assume a degree of importance w hich it had never before attained, and several dramatic writers, the most prolific of whom was Hardy, ap- peared about the time of Henry IV. Cardinal Richelieu caused two theatres to be erected in his palace, in which were performed tragedies, tragi-comedies, or heroic-comedies, composed by the cardinal with the assistance of Corneille, Ro- Irou, Colletet, and others. About the year 1650, some young men, at the head of whom was Moliere, undertook to form a company of itinerant actors, and erected a theatre, which they called Theatre Illustre. In 1658, ttey performed before Louis XIV., who, being satisfied with the representation, gave them f gallery in the Hotel du Petit Bourbon for a theatre. In 1660, they removed to ilxe Theatre du Palais Royal, built by THEATRES. 435 Cardinal Richelieu, and assumed the title of troupe royale. (1) Under the reigns of Louis XV. and XVI., the number of thea- tres in Paris was considerably augmented. The privileges of the French comedians and the Opera being abolished at the Revolution, a great number of petty theatres were established in Paris. Napoleon formed the project of reducing them, and in 1807 issued a decree by which all the theatres in Paris (amounting to thirty) were suppressed, except eight, a certain compensation being made to the others. After the Restora- tion, several new ones were opened, and the drama was re- gularly encouraged by government ; a certain sum being an- nually allotted out of the civil list for the support and assist- ance of various theatres. Since 1830, the number has slightly increased, four minor theatres having been added to those pre- viously established ; one of which, however ( Theatre Moliere), has been abandoned as an unsuccessful speculation. Though the taste for dramatic representations is said to be compara- tively on the decline, the receipts of the theatres have beea in 1835 and 1836 more abundant than at any former period. It has been estimated that the total receipts of the theatres of Paris, from April 1835 to Anril 1836 amounted to 7 millions of francs; and it has been ascertained from positive returns that while in 1832 the tax upou the income of the theatres for the support of charitable institutions amounted to 400,000 fr., in 1835, it came to the sum of 716,000 fr. By an admi- rable provision of the law of France, all places of public amusemement, of which theatres are the chief, pay one-tenth of their receipts to the administration of hospitals and chari- table institutions. A considerable sum is now annually voted by the legislature, on the budget of the Minister of the Interior, towards the support of some of the principal theatres. This is done in order that the French Opera may be the better enabled to give those splendid representations for w hich it is unrivalled, or that the Italian Opera may the more easily procure the assistance of the great vocal and instrumental musicians of the day. In the case of the Theatre Francais, this money is intended to counteract the effect of the public taste, which, from its degeneracy, neglects the severer pro- ductions of the stage ; in that of the Odeon, to compensate (i) For much interesting information upon the early dramatic history of France, see History of Paris, 3 vols. 8vo. 2.4 fr. A. and W* Galignani and Co, 436 THEATRES. for the unfortunate situation of that theatre, which is too far removed from the centre of Paris to attract sufficient audi- ences; while, in the Opera Comique, the assistance of the legislature enables the performers to receive sufficient remu- neration, and the administration of that theatre to cultivate and encourage a tasie for a peculiar style of national music. The interests of dramatic authors in France are better secured than in England ; though an effort has recently been made in the latter country to improve the situation of theatrical writers, by assimilating their rights in some measure to those established here, where they participate, during life, in the profits of their works, in every theatre in the kingdom, and the benefit descends to their heirs for 10 years after their decease. The remuneration at a royal theatre is, for a piece of three or five acts, one-twelfth of two-thirds of the gross receipts, and for a piece of one act, one twenty-fourth. It is needless in this place to give any observations upon the dramatic writers of France, whose works are too well known to need any thing beyond the slightest allusion, it will be sufficient to say that the French stage is not at the present moment in a state of very high pro- mise, though undoubtedly the names of Casimir Delavigne, Victor Hugo, Alexandre Bun as, and Scribe, are rich excep- tions to the host of mediocrity by which they are surrounded. Associated with these, the names of Meyerbeer, and Auber, are entitled to a foremost rank as representing the musical ®ir Ubrites of the present day. Till the reign of Louis XIV., no women appeared on the stage, but female characters were performed by men in woman's attire ; and until a much later period all characters were performed nearly in the dress of the court of the grand monarch. Talma was the first actor who gave that decided correctness of taste to the French stage for which it is so celebrated; and ever since his day, but more particularly at the present time, there are to be found, at the great theatres of Paris, accurate and animated tableaux vivants of the times and costumes of the events to which the dramas allude. The theatres of Paris are well regulated within, and the intrusion of improper characters, or the occur- rence of offences against public morality, are prevented as much as is possible : a strong contrast being exhibited in this respect to the theatres of London, and altogether to the ad- vantage of those of Paris. Sentinels guard all the avenues, THEATRES. 437 and preserve order in the interior. The visitors who Await the opening- of the doors are regularly arranged in files of two or three abreast ; and although the crowd prohably con- sists of several hundreds, but little pressure or inconvenience is felt, and every person is quietly and gently admitted in his turn. Such, indeed, is the ardour for theatrical amusements exhibited by the population of Paris, that a crowd, or queue as it is commonly called, may always be found round the door olany popular theatre for several hours before the time of admission. Persons who proceed to theatres in hired cabriolets, or fiacres^ are required to pay the fare beforehand, in order that the driver may depart immediately, and thus avoid occasioning any stoppage at the door. On leaving the theatre, not the smallest confusion or uproar takes place. No person is per- mitted to call his carriage until he is actually waiting for it at the door ; and, should not the owner step into it in an in- stant, it is ordered off by the police, and makes way for an- other. The pit of French theatres is generally appropriated to men alone, but in some of the minor ones of Paris, women are allowed to enter. The best place for connoisseurs is the orchestre? or row T of stalls immediately behind the musicians, and next to this is, in general, the more fashionable balcon, in front of the first row of boxes. The latter are for the most part small, hut are on that account better suited to the size of the parties who generally go in company to the theatres ; they commonly hold from 4 to 6 persons. In many of the theatres a small gallery extends round the front of each tier of boxes ; these are called the galeries ; and, though good places for witnessing the performances, are not so comfortable nor so dear as the boxes. The galleries above the boxes are called amphitheatres, and are the lowest-priced places of the house ; here, as in most other theatres in all parts of the world, is the favoured abode of the gods; the critics still assume to themselves the domain of the pit ; and the milder part of the audience keep in the juste-milieu of the boxes. The prices of admission will be found subjoined to the description of each, theatre. It must be observed that the French names of places are retained, as being those for which the visitor must ask ; thus loges means boxes ; baignoires, latticed boxes ; de face, front ; de cote, side ; parterre, pit. On taking places before- hand, about one-fourth more is paid. 37. THEATRES. The Academie Royale de Mttsique, or French Opera House, which was intended only for a temporary building, was erected in the space of a year, by M. Debret, architect, and was thus hastily constructed in orderto replace, as speedily as possible, the opera-house that stood in the rue de Richelieu. At the door of the latter, it will be remembered, the Buke de Berry was assassinated, in 1820 — (See p. 212) — and the de- molition of that theatre was immediately ordered by the go- vernment. The present building has, however, stood so long that it may be questioned whether any alterations in it will take place for many years to come. It communicates with three streets, that of Lepelletier for carriages, of Pinon for fiacres, and of Grange Bate^iere for persons on foot. Two elegant passages, skirted wit^f shops 5 also form a communica- tion between the Boulevard »5es Italiens and the Opera House. The front consists of a series of arcades on the ground floor, forming a double vestibule. At each end a wing projects, and between these wings, from the top of the arcades, proceeds a light awning supported by cast-iron pillars, beneath which carriages set down. At the first floor is a range of nine arcades, which form the windows of the saloon. The elevation of the front is 64 feet. The second or interior vestibule is ornament- ed with Doric columns, and on each side of it is a staircase leading to the first row of boxes and the saloon. From the lobby two other staircases lead to the pit, the baignoires, and the orchestra. Between the latter and the lobbies of the stage-boxes are two staircases, which lead to the top of the building, and so numerous are the outlets that the house may be entirely cleared in the space of ten minutes. The interior contains four rows of boxes; the number of places is 1937; and its dimensions are 66 feet from side to side, while the stage is 42 feet in width by 82 in depth. Beneath the latter is a space for the play of machinery 32 feet deep; the wall between the house and the stage rises above the roof, and in case of fire the communication between the two can be entirely cut ofi by a sheet of iron tissue, while ventilators can be opened to carry the flames in any direction. Reservoirs of water are constructed under the roofs. The saloon is 186 feet in length, extending throughout the entire width of the front of the building, and is one of the finest rooms for public assemblies in Paris. The opera is conducted under the superintendence of the government, and receives THEATRES. 439 a subsidy from the slate of 760,000 francs, besides a sum of 130,000 francs for retiring pensions, every year. The actors are, in the vocal department, pupils of the Conserva- toire de Musique; and, in the corps de ballet, consist of the most distinguished dancers of the age. Nourrit, Dabadie, and Levasseur, Dorus, Nau, Flecheux, and Falcon, in the former de- partment, TaglioniandDuvernay in the latter, are, if we may so call them, natives of this house. The representations at this theatre are always got up in the most admirable style ; the scenery is splendid, and the attention paid to the costumes of the actors, and to the general dramatic effect, is too w ell known to need any but a slight allusion. Performances take place here on Mon- days, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and sometimes on Sundays. Prices of admission: — Stalles, Tofr. Premieres de face et d'avant scene, baignoires d'avant scene, gfr. Orchestre, baicon, deuxiemc de face, et d'avant scene, 71'r. 5oc. Galeric des pre- mieres, amphitheatre des premieres, ^fr. 5oc. Premieres de cote, baignoires de cote, 6fr. Deuxiemes de cote, troisiemes de face, 5fr. Troisiemes de cote et d'avant scene, quatrieme de face, 3fr. 5oc. Parterre, 3fr. 60c. Quatriemes de cote, cinquiemes de face, amphitheatre des quatriemes, aft*. 5oc. — Doors open at 6; performances begin at 7. Italian Opeua House, Place des Italiens. — This Theatre was erected in 1783, after the designs of Heurtier, but, in consequence of its inconvenient distribution, was seldom occupied, till 1825, when its interior arrangement was completely changed, under the direction of Messrs. Hiltorf and Lecointe ; and it is now one of the most commodious and elegant houses in the capital. A portico, supported by six columns of the Ionic order, ornaments the facade; in the ves- tibule on the right and left are staircases leading to the boxes, and in the angles are flights of stairs communicating with the pit. The interior of the house is semi-circular, and contains places for 1,200 spectators. There are four rows of boxes; their decorations are remarkably elegaut; and, together with the ceiling, they are painted with exquisite taste in groups of flow ers, figures, etc. The size of this house is most admirably suited to the style of the performances, and in few theatres can the voices and the music be heard to so great advantage. The saloon is a splendid apartment. The combination of talent engaged of late years at this theatre has seldom been equalled on the continent. Tamburini, Lablache, Eubini, Iyanoff ; 440 THEATRES. Santini, and Mile., now Mrae. Grisi, frequently appearing in the same opera. The triumphs of Mme. Pasta and the la- mented Mrae. Malibran are too closely associated to this theatre to be omitted in the slightest record on the subject. The annual sum voted to this theatre on the budget of the Minister of the Interior is 71,500 francs. It is only open six months of the year, from 1st of October to 31st of March ; and perform- ances take place on the Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Prices of admission : — Premieres loges, et deuxiemes loges de face, rez-de-chaussee de face, et stalles, lofr. Deux'iemes loges de cole, loges du rez-de-chaussee, ^fr. 5oc. Troisiemes loges de face, 6fr. Troisiemes loges de cote, 5fr. Quatriemes loges, jjfrr. Parterre, 3fr. 6oc. Amphitheatre des quatriemes, afr. — Doors open at 7 ; performances begin at 8. Theatre Francois. — This theatre is in the rue de Riche- lieu, at the south-west corner of the Palais Royal, and was begun by the Duke of Orleans, in 1787, after the designs of Louis. It is 166 feet in length by 105 in breadth, and its to- tal height, to the summit of the terrace, is 100 feet. The principal front, towards the rue de Richelieu, presents a pe- ristyle of the Doric order : another front, partly facing the rue de Montpensier, and partly attached to the Palais Royal, displays a range of arcades, resting on square pillars, and continued round the building, thus forming a covered gallery. On both fronts is a range of Corinthian pilasters, with an en- tablature pierced by small windows : this mass is loaded with an attic, two other storeys, and an immense roof terminated by a terrace. The vestibule is of an elliptical form, and the ceiling, which rests upon two rows of fluted Doric columns, placed concentrically, is adorned with sculpture. In the centre is a tine marble statue of Voltaire, byHoudon. A com- munication is formed between the vestibule and the lobbies by four staircases. The form of the house is elliptical ; it con- tains three tiers of boxes, with two amphitheatres, and the seats of the pit are furnished with backs. The total number of places is 1522. The saloon, and an adjoining gallery, though not large, are elegantly arranged, and contain numerous busts of the most distinguished of French dramatists. An in- teresting collection of various objects connected with Mo- liereand other celebrities of the French drama has been formed here. The performances at this theatre, which is the standard one of the whole country, are strictly limited to the most THEATRES. 441 correct and the highest style of tragedy and regular comedy. Some relaxation of this rule has, however, taken place by the admission of the productions of M. Victor Hugo, and M. Alex. Dumas, which, with all their merits, certainly partake but little of the elevation of style which heretofore has been sup- posed essenlial to the highest order of the drama. Of the per- formers, Mile. Mars, alone, gi late years, sustains the ancient renown of this national theatre, though she is supported un- questionably by artistes of very considerable talents, among the foremost of whom we may quote Mrae. Dorval, Mme. Vol- neys, Mile. Anais, and Mile. Noblet, Messrs. Ligier, Monrose, Samson, and Beauvallet. For the support of this theatre, 208,000 fr. are annually allotted by the legislature. Prices of admission: — Loges dc la galerie, du rez-de-ehaus- see, balcon, et premieres de face, 6fr. 6oc. Stalles, 6fr. Or- chestre, 5fr. Premieres de cote, premiere galerie, 5oe. Deuxiemes loges, 3fr. 5oc. Galerie de deuxiemes loges, 3fr. Troisiemes loges du centre, afr. 6oc. Parterre, afr. aoc. Deux- ieme galerie, lfr. 3o.c. Amphitheatre, il'r. — Doors open at 6; performances begin at r j. Odeon, or Second Theatre Francais, Place de 1'Odeon, was built in ±779, was burnt down 20 years afterwards, and was rebuilt in 1807, by C ha 1 grin. The interior was a second time destroyed by fire in 1818, but was restored in 1820. The exterior is 168 feet in length, 112 in breadth, and 64 in height. The principal front is ornamented with a portico of eight Doric columns, ascended by nine steps. The entabla- ture is continued at the same height round the whole building, which presents on the ground-floor 46 covered arcades, and at the first storey an equal number of windows. The second and third storeys receive light by openings in the frieze and the attic; and the piazzas round the edifice are open to the public. The vestibule is small ; but two handsome stone staircases lead from it to the interior of the house, which is of an oval form, and contains four tiers of boxes, with three am- phitheatres, capable of holding 1,628 persons. The decora- tions are executed with much taste, and give the theatre a light and elegant appearance. The saloon is handsome. Upon the last restoration of this theatre every possible precau- tion was adopted to prevent the flames extending from one part of the building to another in case of fire. No theatre in Paris affords a greater number of convenient outlets ; besides U2 THEATRES. the five streets which open into the semicircular area before the principal front, there are two lateral streets and one be- hind, which facilitate the arrival and departure of carriages. This theatre, after having been closed for some time, is now about to be re-opened for various classes of performances ; and 16,500fr. are annually given by the State for its preser- vation. Prices OP ADMISSION : — Avant scenes, balcons, premieres, 5fr. Stalles d'amphitheatre, de premiere galerie et d'orehestre, Avant scene des deuxiemes, orchestre, deuxiemes loges et bai- gnoires, 3fr. Premiere galerie, 3fr. Seconde galerie, 'jAw Troisiemes et quatriemes loges, ifr. jhc. Parterre, lfr. 5oc. — Doors open at 6 o'clock ; performances begin at 7. Theatre be l'Opera Comique, Place de la Bourse, for- merly the Theatre des Nouveautes, was opened in 1827. It presents a narrow front, ornamented with columns of the Ionic and Corinthian orders, pilasters, and niches in which statues are placed. The interior is of a circular form; it contains three tiers of boxes and two galleries, and holds 1,200 per- sons. The decorations of the house are not devoid of taste, but its limited size, both before and behind the curtain, ren- der it unfitted for the purpose of an opera. The light agree- able character of the music, which formerly distinguished the Opera Comique in France, has given place of late years to a more elaborate style, more scientific perhaps, but certainly less popular. Auber, and perhaps we may cite Halevy, seem, however, disposed to keep up the ancient characteristics of this school, and from the favour with which their composi- tions of this class have been received, a reform in this respect may be anticipated. The male singers at this theatre, with the single exception of M. Chollet, a florid tenor, are all se- cond rate. The ladies are stronger ; Mme. Damoreau, Mine. Casimir, Mme. Pradher, and Mile. Prevost, particularly the first, are justly at the head of their profession. On the bud- get of the Minister of the Interior, 246,000fr. are allotted every year to this theatre. Prices of admission :— Avant scene des premieres du rez-de- chaussee, stalles d'orehestre, balcon des premieres loges de la galerie, premieres loges de face, 6fr. 5oc. Premieres de cote, baig- noires deface, 5fr. 5oc. Avant scene des deuxiemes loges, deuxiemes logesde face, £rV. Deuxiemes loges de cote, 3fr. 5oc. Parterre, afr. 5oc. Deuxieme galerie, 1 fr. 75c. Amphitheatre, ifr. a5c. — Doors open at 6; performances begin at 7, THEATRES. 443 Theatre Ventadour, rue Marsollicr, formerly the Opera Comique, was opened in 1829, and was erected upon the site of the hotel formerly occupied by the Minister of the Finances, afler the designs of Messrs. Huve and de Guerchy, forming a parallelogram 154 feet in length by 110 in breadth. The prin- cipal front is divided into two storeys, crowned by an attic; the lower storey presents a range of nine open arcades, orna- mented with columns, and the upper, the windows of the sa- loon, with semicircular tops to correspond with the arcades beneath, separated by columns. Above the entablature, and in front of the attic, are placed statues of eight of the Muses. Blank arcades, continued along the two sides, and the back of the building, are surmounted by two rows of windows, a se- cond row having been opened in the attic. A portico, formed by the arcades of the principal front, leads to a vestibule, at the back of which extends a passage which is entered at the side of the building, and in which carriages set down under cover. The interior is semicircular, and ornamented with columns of the Composite order, the fluting, capitals, etc. of which are richly gilt; the general colour of the house is white, ornamented with gilding. It contains three tiers of boxes, and three galleries, the draperies of which are in green, and the fronts with the ceiling are painted in beautiful designs of allegorical figures, arabesques, etc. The saloon is a very magnificent room, well adapted for concerts and balls ; and the theatre, as a whole, is one of the most elegant and commo- dious in Paris. It has been closed for some time, on account of the high price, 60,000fr., asked for the rent ; and is not likely to be used until a reduction takes place, since the company rent their present house for half that amount. It is now used for balls and concerts in the winter, which are given here in rather superior style. Gymnase Dramatique, Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, was erected in 1820, and presents a plain front to the boulevard. The vestibule is small; the house, which will contain 1,282 spectators, is neatly fitted up, and is well suited both for hear- ing and seeing. The performances are limited to vaudevilles and comedies ; and most of the dramatic productions of Scribe were written for this theatre, which is one of the best fre- quented in Paris. Prices of admission : — Avant scenes, premieres loges fermees, loges d'entresol, fralcon, stalies, 5fr. ,Baiguoues ; orcliestre, /j fr * 444 THEATRES. Premieres loges, premieres galeries, 3fr. 5oc. Deuxiemes loges fermees, 3fr. 5oe. Deuxiemes ioges, afr. 5oc. Troisiemes loges, galeries des deuxiemes, i fr. 75c. Parterre, ih\ — Doors open at 6; performances begin at halt-past 6. Theatre du Vaudeville, rue St. Thomas du Louvre, was originally a ball-room, called Le Pantheon and was opened in 1791 . It possesses no architectural interest of any kind ; the interior, however, is prettily fitted up, and the number of places is 1,257. It is especially devoted to the per- formance of vaudevilles and other light pieces, compensating by the excellence of its corps of actors for some of the incon- veniences of the place in which they perform. Prices of admission: — Baleon, avant scene, baignoires des premieres, et stalles, 5fr. Premieres loges, avant scene des deux- iemes, deuxiemes loges grillces de face, 5oc. Baignoires, orchestre, premiere et seconde galcries, ^v. Deuxiemes loges dc cote, 3fr. Troisiemes loges, air. Amphitheatre des troisiemes, ifr. ioc. Parterre, afr.— Doors open at 6; performances begin at from half-past 6 to 7. Theatre des Varieties, Boulevard Montmartre. — This theatre was opened in 1807, and was built by M. Cellerier. Its front, though very small, is in the purest style, and deco- rated with two ranges of columns, Doric and Ionic, sur- mounted by a pediment. The ground-floor presents a vesti- bule, from which two flights of stairs lead to the first tier of boxes and the saloon, which is over the vestibule. The house, which is nearly circular, contains three tiers of boxes, and three galleries, and can accommodate 1,240 persons. Vaudevilles and farces are performed here, and it is one of the most successful theatres of the capital. 'Prices of admission :— Avant scene des premieres et du rez- de-chaussec, baignoires de face, loges de la galerie, premieres lo°es de face, stalles, et balcon, 5fr. Orchestre, premiere galcric, rez-de-chaussee de cote, premieres loges de. cote, deuxieme rang, 4fr. Troisiemes loges, amphitheatre de parterre, 2fr. 5oc. Par- terre et deuxieme galerie, Qifr. Troisieme galerie, ifr. 25c. — Doors open at 6 ; performances begin at half-past 6, and some- times at 7. Theatre du f Palais Royal, formerly the Cafe de la Paix, occupies the site of the ancient Theatre Montpensier, at the north-east corner of the Palais Royal, and was opened in 1831. It is prettily decorated within, but it is of very small THEATRES. 445 dimensions; the number of places is 930. Farces and vau- devilles are performed here by an excellent company. Prices of admission : — Stalles de balcon, avant scene, 5fr. Pre- mieres de face, stalles d'orchestre, Premiere galcrie, 3fr. Baignoires, premieres loges d'avant scene, orchestre, ^fr. 5oc. Troisiemes loges, sfr. Seconde galerie, i fr. 5oc. Parterre, ifr. qdc. — Doors open at 6; performances begin at ball' past 6, and some- times at 7. Theatre de la Porte St. Martin, Boulevard St. Mar- tin. — The Opera-house having been destroyed by fire in 1781, this edifice was planned, built, and decorated by Lenoir, in 75 days ! It is constructed almost entirely of wood and plas- ter, and, though large and commodious within, is certainly one of the ugliest buildings of Paris on the outside. It has no vestibule, and the saloon is very small. The interior contains 3 tiers of boxes and 3 galleries ; but is not remarkable for the taste or the elegance of its decorations ; it holds 1803 persons. Here are produced most of the melo-dramas, and more striking tragi -comic pieces, that form the standard of dramatic excel- lence to the lower orders. Some good plays are, however, occasionally performed here : an efficient company of actors imparts much spirit to the performances, and the theatre fills as well as any in Paris. Prices of admission: — Avant scene du rez-de-chausse'e, et du premier et deuxieme rang, stalles d'amphitheatre et de balcon, loges grilles du premiere rang, 6fr. Logcs grillees du deuxieme rang, 5fr. Premieres de cote du premier rang, 3fr. 5oc. Balcon des premieres, 3fr. Orchestre, 3 fr. Loges de cote du deux- ieme rang, avant scene des deuxiemes, 2fr. 5oc. Deuxiemes loges, 2fr. Pourtour du rez-de-chaussee, parterre, premiere am- phitheatre, 1 fr. 5oc. Troisieme galerie, lfr. — Doors open at half past 5 or 6 ; performances begin from 6 to 7. Theatre de l'Ambigu Comique, Boulevard de Bondy. — The Ambigu Comique upon the Boulevard du Temple having been destroyed by fire, the present house was erected by Stouff and Lecointre, and opened in 1828. The front is or- namented at each storey with six columns, which support a cornice and its entablature. The upper storey has, instead of windows, niches with allegorical statues. The peristyle, likewise adorned with columns, is surmounted by a terrace. The ground-floor next the boulevard is skirted with shops. The interior of the theatre is neatly ornamented, and contains 446 THEATRES. 3 galleries and 3 tiers of boxes ; with 1,900 places. The sa- loon is not large, but is neatly decorated. Melodramas and vaudevilles are performed here. Prices of admission: — Avant scene du rez-de-chaussee et du premier rang, 5fr. Loges grillees de face du premier ct du deuxieme rang, sialics, Avant scene du deuxieme rang, /Jfr. Baignoires grillees au rez-de-chaussee, loges decouvertes au pre- mier rang, 3fr.. Baignoires decouvertes du rez-de-chaussee, loges decouvertes de cote :iu deuxieme rang, premier balcon, premiere galerie, afr. Deuxieme balcon, deuxieme galerie, ifr. 5oc. Parterre, ifr. 5oc. — Doors open at half past 5 to C; performances begin at from 6 to half past. Cirque Olympique, Boulevard du Temple. — Equestrian performances were first introduced at Paris, by Messrs. Aslley, of London, in the lime of the Directory. Their company was succeeded by that of Franconi, in the time of Napoleon ; and the present theatre was built in 1827, the building in the rue du Faubourg du Temple having been burnt down in 1826. It is in the form of a parallelogram, and is detached by two wide passages, closed by iron gates. The roof is of cast-iron, and the stage, as well as all the entrances leading to it, can be completely separated from the house by means of a curtain and doors of iron. The front is plain ; the interior, besides a slage, contains a circus in the place of the pit, where eques- trian exercises take place. There are three tiers of boxes and four galleries, holding with the pit 1800 persons. Mili- tary melodramas, in which horses perform, arc represented here all the year round ; and in the winter equestrian exer- cises are added : but during the summer, the latter takes place only in a temporary theatre erected in the Champs filysees. The feats of horsemanship performed here are un- rivalled, and Franconi' s stud is celebrated throughout Europe. The stranger should certainly not quit the French capital without spending an evening at the Cirque Olympique. Prices of admission: — Sialics du premier amphitheatre, loges de cote, 3lr. Avant scene des premieres et loges grillees, 4ir. Premieres loges, 31V. Balcon de face et de cote, §fr. 5oc. Pre- miere galerie, rez-de-chaussee, afr. Secondc galerie, ifr. Soc. Deuxieme amphitheatre, deuxieme galerie, ifr, 'i5c. — Doors open at half past 5 to 6 ; performances begin at 6 to 7. Theatre de la Gaite, Boulevard du Temple. — This theatre, originally built in 1808, was burnt down in 1835, THEATRES. 4$ 7 and re-opened in a few months afterwards. It has a small but pretty front, and is well arranged internally; it will an- commodate 1,800 spectators. The performance are vaudt villes and melodramas. e see^'h W A ~ 0N: 7 Ava " t .ft*"**? premieres, rez-de-cha„s- Tiikatre dm Folks Dramatiques, Boulevard dn Temple. . -Th b a small theatre, erected in 1830, and may be classed with tne preceding ; the performances being of a similar but somewhat .nferior kind, it holds 1,400 persons. PRICES of admission :— Premieres loo-es dr r-,r P vn, .]„ i avant scene dcs premieres 2ft 2 a«see, -one, ,fr. 5oe. Ih-chcst e', Tfc. ftVtelS '2 at about 5; performance, begin at G to half past? ' " D °° 1S ° pe " loinf A t!!;. T \\ P ?. m,i St - Awtoine, Boulevard St. An- inimi 1 ;' r °f, of t th ' s P'^«0' Public amusement, erected and com ns ot Ut J he i,lterior is well arranged ; s^JZS^jr*' vaudevilIes ' aud mi1 ■erne galer.e, 5oe.-Peribrmanees begin at about bah-past 5 wsttleLTi^T' rUS S'-'W-This theatre ml taste r P T. f ' ""J 1 P !' eSeDlS 3 Sin ^ ,,Iar s P ecim en of Go- vp vnZ I l mectlI> g ,n °eed considerable blame upon the go- vernment for permitting such an act of desecration U haX earherr"^ °f ChUrch ° f 8t B^diet/S he bu in W M °. f christianit y erected in Paris. , t ™s re- * n K 151 '> a "-d was famous in the days of the U«Z l IL fromhf ffiffi Jean B0UCher ' ^ S nuin d h»T r , P P , UlC Jusllce of assassinating Henry HI The The y I" ° hUrCh " 0W forras the hterioV of "he thJre ^fS^l,^ 1 ^ -»odramas. lh The Prices of ADriKSIb^-Avanl seines, stalles, premieres loges de 448 THEATRES. face, ^fr. 5oc. Balcon, baignoir es de face, premieres loges de cote, ayant scenes des deuxiemes, 'jfr. Deuxiemes loges de cote, ifr. 75c. Orchestre, deuxieme galerie de face, ifr. 5oc. Parterre, ifr. Troisieme galerie, 5oc— Begins at about half-past 5. Theatre de M. Comte, Passage Choiseul. — The interior is neat; the actors, who are all young, perform vaudevilles, comedies, and melodramas, with great ability. To these are occasionally added tricks with cards, etc. and ventriloquism. It is, for children, one of the most interesting of the Parisian places of public amusement. M. Comte gives representations at private houses, the charge varies from 100 to 300 fr. for the evening's performance. Prices of admission : — Avant scene, 5fr. Loges de face, 3fr. Orcliestre, afr. Pourtour, premiere galerie, loges de cote, 2fr. Parterre, deuxieme galerie, ifr. — Begins at about 6. Gymnase des Enfans, Passage de l'Opera. — This exhibi- tion resembles the preceding, and was established in 1829. Prices of admission from 1 5 sous to 3 francs. — Begins at about G. Theatre Acrobate de Madame Saqui, Boulevard du Temple. — Madame Saqui, w ell known in London and else- where for her performances on the tight-rope, originated this theatre; and similar exhibitions with pantomines, and other amusements of rather a low description, are to be witnessed here every evening. Admission from 6 to 5o sous. Begins at about half-past 5. Theatre des Funambules, Boulevard du Temple. — Rope- dancing, and comic representations with a clown, etc., are exhibited here. Admission from 5 to 35 sous ; begins at about half-past 5. Theatre du Petit Lazari, Boulevard du Temple. — A species of puppet-show, suited to amuse the lower ranks and children. The puppets undergo various transformations by means of mechanism. Prices of admission from 4 to i5 sous; begins at about 5. Theatre Seraphin, 121, Palais Royal. — This is a kind of puppet-show with mechanical figures, called Ombres Chinoises, etc., and is the delight of children and nursery-maids. Admission, 12 10 3o sous. — Performances at 1, and at 7 in the evening. Theatre du Luxembourg, rue de Fleurus — Comic pieces, CONCERTS. 449 pantomines, melodramas, and vaudevilles form the amuse- ments of this theatre. Prices of admission: — Loges, 2fr. Baignoires ct balcon, 3o sous. Orchestic, stalles, tfr. Parterre, 8 sous. Amphitheatre, 6 sous. Theatres de la Banlieue de Paris. — These small theatres, six in number, being without the barriers, and con- sequently at a distance from any of the places of amusement in Paris, are generally well attended by the inhabitants of the suburbs. The exterior appearance of some of them is neat, and the interior decorations may vie with those of some of the Paris theatres of the second order. The pieces performed are vaudevilles, petty comedies, and even tragedies. The Theatre du Mont Parnasse, situated beyond the barrier of the same name; the Theatre Montmartre, at Montmartre, by the Barriere des Martyrs; and the Theatre de Belleville, at the vil- lage of the same name, by the Barriere de la Courtille, give representations daily. The Theatre de Grenelle, at Grenelle, by the Barriere de 1'ficoleMilitaire, Sundays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays. The Theatre des Themes, beyond the Barriere du Roule, Sundays. The Theatre de Ranelagh, beyond Passy, near the iron gate leading into the Bois de Boulogne, Mon- days in summer. The charge for admission varies from G to 30 sous. CONCERTS. There are permanent concerts of instrumental music esta- blished in Paris, every evening. Of these the principal are the Concerts St. Honore, directed by M. Jullien. During the fine weather of the summer months, these concerts take place every evening within an enclosure erected for that pur- pose at the entrance of the Champs Elysees; but for the rest of the year at the Salle des Concerts, 359, rue St. Honore. A large band of 70 performers plays all the new music of the day, arranged principally as quadrilles, marches, etc. The rooms in which these agreeable concerts are held are generally thronged with excellent company, and well worthy of a visit from the stranger; they are prettily decorated with flowers, fountains, etc., and arc attended by a good glacier. Ad- mission Ifr. The Concerts Musard, under the superintendence of the well-known composer of that name, are held at a handsome 38. 450 EXHIBITIONS. saloon in the rue Neuve Vivienne, No. 51, and are similar to the above. Admission lfr. The (tymnase Musical, Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, is a small theatre adapted for musical performances. It is about to be re-opened, after a temporary closure. Concerts du Jardin Turc. — In this garden, attached to one of the most celebrated cafes in Paris, are to be heard, during the finer months of the year, concerts that are well worthy of the stranger's notice. An excellent band, a de- lightful promenade, illuminations arranged with taste, and good refreshments, are combined in this establishment. The price of admission is lfr. Concerts are frequent in all seasons, but particularly in winter. They generally take place at the Italian Opera-house, or the Salle des Menus Plaisirs, No. 2, rue Bergere. In the winter and the spring several distinguished artists give morn- ing and evening concerts, by subscriptions, in rooms afforded them by some of the principal musical instrument-makers. EXHIBITIONS — PUBLIC GARDENS, etc. etc. Panorama, 40, rue des Mara is. — This is a splendid exhibi- tion, in every way worthy of the attention of the stranger. It consists, as is usual in such cases, of a large circular apart- ment admirably lighted from above, and contains, at present, a magnificent representation of the battle of the Moskowa, in Napoleon's disastrous campaign of 1812. Price of admis- sion, 2fr. 50c. Diorama, rue Sanson. — This well known exhibition, ori- ginally invented in France, and brought to perfection by MM. Daguerre and Boulon, contains generally two pictures, of large dimensions and inimitable execution. Wonderful effects of light and shade are produced here, and the pictures are mostly shown under two distinct circumstances by means of an ingenious decomposition of light. The visitor should by no means omit going to this exhibition. Price of admis- sion, 2 fr. 50 c. Salon de Figures, 54, Boulevard du Temple.— This is an exhibition of wax-work representations of celebrated cha- racters, some of which are executed with excellent effect. Cabinet d'Anatomie, 4, rue Montesquieu.— A valuable EXHIBITIONS— PUBLIC GARDENS. 451 exhibition of casls in wax, coloured after the life, of various parts of the human body, animals, etc. The collection con- tains a complete series of models of the human form in every state of pregnancy, and of various animals during the time of gestation, it is also celebrated for a fine series of venereal cases and related diseases, an inspection of which will be in- teresting to the student of Pathology. Admittance 1 franc. Combat des Animaux, Barriere du Combat. — This exhi- bition, which is only held on Sundays, Mondays, and festivals, is consecrated to the genius of vulgarity and ferocity, whose disciples preside at the ceremonies, in the shape of butchers, carmen, etc. The exhibition consists of an enclosure, round which there is a gallery, and under it dens of beasts, together with a kennel of dogs, who are always ready for battle. Wolves, bulls, and bears, the latter with their teeth filed down, encounter trained dogs ; but the latter seldom kill their opponents, as amusement, not destruction, instigates the combats. The bulls have their horns sawn off. There are also fire-works exhibited, in which is to be seen a bull-dog raised 50 feet by a rope, which he holds between his teeth, regardless of the flames which surround him. The spectacle commences at 3 to 4 o'clock. Admittance Ifr. and 2fr. Jeux de Palme (Tennis-courts). — There were several buildings appropriated to these exercises; but, at present, the only one is at No. 62, rue Mazarine. Jardin de Tivoli, 80, rue de Clichy.— This garden, which is the most celebrated in Paris, is one of considerable extent. During the summer months, there are given here fetes c ham- pel res, at which concerts, conjuring, and other amusements, aerostatic ascensions, fire-works, illuminations, and dances, form the evening's entertainments. In the middle of the gar- den is a pavilion containing an excellent cafe ; in another part stands a temporary theatre, where the best actors from the minor houses frequently perform. The displays of fire- works that take place here are generally very good. This is one of the most attractive places of public amusement during the summer. In the day time the garden is opened as a pro- menade upon the payment of ifr. Pigeon-shooting matches, under the direction of Mr. Bryon, are held every Wednesday in the open part of the ground, and are attended by all the fashionable sportsmen of Paris. 4-52 GAMBLING-HOUSES— CEECLES— RALLS. Jardin du Trianon, rue Sanson. — This place of public amusement, which is conveniently situated near the Boule- vard St. Martin, was formerly called the Wciuxhall d'Ete. It Contains a well-planted garden, in which are numerous bos- quets and parterres, a small piece of water, and a rotunda for dancing. Balls onSundays, Mondays, and Thursdays. La Chaumiere, 26, Boulevard Mont Parnasse. — The gar- den of this establishment is small but tastefully laid out. The amusements consist of dancing, Montagues Suisscs, etc., a good restaurant and cafe, etc. The company is notvery select, consisting principally of parties en tete-a-lelc, griseltes, etc. Mors tag ne Belleville, close to the Barrier, is similar to the preceding, but again far from select. Gambling-Houses — are to be definitively abolished in France on the last day of 1837, according to a law passed by the legislature in the session of 1836. We however mention those which are now in existence. The principal of these establishments in this metropolis is called the Cercle des Elrangers. It is an elegantly-furnished hotel, situated at No. 106, in the rue de Richelieu, and is frequented by per- sons of the first rank. Each Tuesday and Friday, a splendid dinner takes place, to which about 30 gentlemen, known at the hotel, are invited. During the carnival, a masked ball and supper is given, distinguished by the same style of luxury as the foregoing, and also without expense to the visitor. By a strict regulation, an introduction is indispensible at this es- tablishment. The next in rank to this isFrascati's (see p. 209), and after this, those in the Palais Royal (see p. 175). Cercles. — These are societies conducted on similar prin- ciples to the clubs of London, the members subscribing for the support of a magnificent apartment, in which they as- semble for the purpose of conversation, of reading the papers, and in some of dining ; card-playing to a great extent is also carried on in them. To be admitted, the candidate must be pro- posed by a member, and balloted for, as in London ; they are intended principally for French society, and few foreigners belong to them. The most celebrated are, Boulevard Mont- marlre, No. 12, rue de Grammont, No. 28, and the French Jockey Club at the corner of the rue Grange Bateliere. Balls.-— Balls area favourite amusement in Paris, particu- larly in the winter. There is no quarter of the capital in GUINGUETTES — THE CARNIVAL. 453 which ball-rooms, adapted to all classes of society, are not to be found. In summer, the balls are held in the public gar- dens, and in saloons erected in the Champs Elysees, and the suburbs. The principal rooms for the winter balls are, Tri- anon, rue Sanson; Tivoli d'Hiver, 45, rue de Grenelle St. Honore ; lePrado, near the Palais de Justice ; l'ldalie, Passage de l' Opera, Boulevard des Italiens. There is an innumerable variety of ball-rooms of a lower description. During the summer months there are well frequented balls at Ranelagh, Sceaux, St. Cloud, St. Mande, and Montmorency. Guinguettes. — Guinguettes are the houses or gardens of traiteurs, in the suburbs of Paris. The lower classes resort to them in great numbers, particularly on Sundays and Mon- days. These establishments were originally very mean, and refreshments were obtained at a trifling expense; but some of them have since been patronised by the middling classes ; and in these good accommodation is to be found. Among the most celebrated are the Jardin de la Gaite, Barriere du Maine ; the Salon Desnoyez, Barriere de la Courtille ; the Ferine, upon the hill of Montmartre ; the He d' Amour, at Belleville ; la Chaumiere, Boulevard du Mont Parnasse ; le Salon du Feu Eternel, Boulevard de ITiopital. When a guinguette adds an orchestre and a ball-room to its other attractions, it is called a bastringue. The houses which sell only wine and liquors are denominated guinehes. The stranger will probabiy look in at some of these places, for there he will obtain a correct idea of the real character and manners of the lower classes in France. The Carnival is now held on the 15 days preceding Ash- Wednesday ; but the principal days are the Dimanche, the Lundi, and the Mardi Gras, and the Thursday of Mid-Lent. A number of persons in disguise, masked, and exhibiting every species of folly, parade the streets. The carnival was pro- hibited in 1790, and no more celebrated till the period when Bonaparte was appointed first consul. Its restoration was a cause of great joy to the Parisians, and for some years nothing could exceed the beauty and richness of the costumes dis- played upon this annual festival ; but it has now lost its charms, and the masks are few and unmeaning. The places of general resort are the boulevards on the north bank of the Seine, and the rue St. Honore. After parading the streets, ^54 REVIEWS. the masks repair for the night to the various balls of every description which then abound in the capital.— The Masked Balls, which at the time of the carnival take precedence of every other kind of amusement in Paris, were introduced un- der the regency of the Duke of Orleans. The Chevalier de Bouillon conceived the project of converting the Opera-house into a ball-room, and a Carmelite friar, named father Sebas- tian, invented the means of elevating the floor of the pit to a level with the stage and lowering it at pleasure. The tirst ball was given on 2d January, 1716. They now commence about the beginning of January, and continue on fixed days through- out the carnival, being given at almost all the theatres and at the Salle des Concert St. Honore, etc. The most select, but not the most amusing, is at the Opera-house, where the balls begin at midnight, and are kept up till day-break. Gentlemen have the privilege of going in plain clothes and unmasked; and at all the balls except the Opera, ladies are allowed to go without masks, but must be in fancy dresses. The greater part of the company are generally in some kind of costume. These balls are very well managed, the t\qyv music of the year is always heard there ; proper decorum is maintained in most of them, and they afford a gay and exceedingly amusing spectacle. The charge is from 3fr. to 10fr., and refreshments and supper may be had. — The procession of the Bceuf-Gras for ages past has been celebrated at Paris, upon the last days of the carnival, when the government prize-ox, preceded by music, and accompanied by a numerous train of butchers fantastically dressed, is led through the streets. The ox is covered with tapestry, and his head adorned with laurel. Formerly the ox bore on his back a child, called Roi des Bouchers, decorated with a blue scarf, and holding in one hand a gilt sceptre and in the other a sword. The child now follows the Bamf Gras in an ornamented triumphal car, but without the sceptre and sword. This innovation upon the ancient custom first took place in 1822. Reviews. — From the military character of the French na- tion, and the great number of troops forming the garrison of Paris, reviews frequently take place. The National Guards and regiments on duty at the Tuileries are paraded with mili- tary music in the court of the palace every morning, at 9 in summer and 10 in winter. Here, too, the troops of the gar- HORSE-RACES — PUBLIC FETES. 455 rison are often reviewed by the king or the princes ; and in the Champ de Mars exercises of regiments often lake place. During the Fetes of July a grand review of all the National Guards of Paris and its environs, with the garrison of the capital, forms a leading feature of the public rejoicings. FIorse-Races. — The sports of the turf have within a few years become much more general among the Parisian nobility and gentry than formerly, and great attention is now devoted to the improvement of the breed of horses. Races take place annually in May and September, in the Champ de Mars. In the former month the races take place on three separate days, two prizes being run for each day, to the aggregate amount of more than 2Q,4Q0fr., besides considerable sweepstakes, subscribed for by the Societe d' Encouragement pour V Amelio- ration de la Race des Chevaux en France. In the latter month races occur on four days, and the prizes are given partly by the arrondissement, and partly by the king and prince royal. Their aggregate amount is more than 35,000fr., with considerable sweepstakes, besides several private matches that vary from year to year. In the Bois de Boulogne, during the first four months of the year, private matches frequently take place, and steeple-chases are formed from time to time in the environs of Paris. The time and amount of the prizes are regularly announced beforehand in the journals, and par- ticularly in Galignanis Messenger, Public Fetes. — The public fetes are held in the Champs Elysees and at the Barriere du Trone, on the anniversaries of the three days of the Revolution of 1830, and the king's fete- day, May 1. In the different areas of the Champs Elysees are rope-dancers, jugglers, buffoons, orchestras for dancers, mats de Cocagne, and stages for dramatic representations. In the evening the avenues and walks are illuminated, as well as the garden of the Tuileries. Although upon these occa- sions the multitude brought together is immense, but few quarrels ensue, and in general the greatest order and good humour prevail. Provisions and wine were formerly distri- buted to the populace, but the confusion created by the rush to obtain a share of the eatables thrown from the booths, and the drunkenness that frequently ensued in the case of those whose superior strength enabled them to procure an undue portion of the wine, induced the municipal authorities to decide that the distribution should in future be made privately, to poor 456 PROMENADES. families, by means of tickets, the number of which corre- sponds with that of the members of the family. This is now done by the mayors of the different arrondissemenls, aided by the members of the Bureau de Bienfaisance. Joutes sur l'eau. — The watermen of the Seine formerly amused the people with rowing and sailing matches. To these were added combats with lances, in boats, and dramatic re- presentations upon the river, in which the mythological divi- nities cut a conspicuous figure. The aquatic sports now take place for the most part at village fetes in the environs of Paris. Mats de Cocagne. — This exercise, first introduced into Paris in 1425, now forms part of the amusements at most of the public fetes given at Paris, as well as at some of the fairs and wakes of the provincial towns and villages. It consists of a mast, 60 feet in height, smeared with soap and grease, at the top of which are several prizes, such as a gold watch, a silver watch, a silver fork and spoon, a silver cup, etc., w hich fall to the lot of those who, in turn, succeed in reach- ing them. Skaiting. — The places most frequented for this exercise are the basin de la Villette, the canal St. Martin, the octagonal basin in the garden of the Tuileries, the gare de la Bastille, and the gare, Faubourg St. Jacques. PROMENADES. Most of the public promenades of Paris have been already described in the preceding part of this book, but they are here placed under one head for the convenience of the general reader. The Champs Elysees form the largest place of public ex- ercise within Paris, and in many respects, during the summer season, the most agreeable. (Seep. 184.) The Gardens of the Tuileries are also a most delightful lounge for the fashionable world, and of the gardens on the northern bank of the Seine are the most considerable. (See p. 151.) The Garden of the Palais Royal is more a general lounge for the inhabitants of the centre of the town than a quiet place of exercise, (See p. 174.) The Garden of the Luxembourg is the principal prome* nade on the southern bank of the Seine, and is at the same time a healthy and agreeable spot. (See p. 370.) BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 457 The Boulevards, both of the interior and the exterior, are resorted to, either for business or pleasure, by Parisians of all ranks, and form admirable channels of communication with all parts of the town, or healthy walks round its extreme limits. (See p. 114.) Bois de Boulogne. — This wood, at the distance of about two miles from Paris, bears the name of a village to which it is contiguous. Before the Revolution it presented few trees that were not stunted and dying with age. The revolutionary axe rendered it still more naked and sterile ; and the greater part of those it spared were felled to make palisades for the barriers of Paris at the approach of the allied armies in 1814. In July, 1815, after the capitulation of Paris, the British troops, under the command of the Duke of Welling- ton, established their camp in the Bois de Boulogne. A great deal of subsequent planting, and the growth of old stocks of trees have now made the Bois de Boulogne a thick and pic- turesque wood. From time immemorial the Bois de Bou- logne has been celebrated as the theatre of duelling ; and it still is the rendezvous of those whom a sense of honour urges to this barbarous practice. Several thousand Parisians and foreigners have perished upon this spot. The Bois de Bou- logne may be called the Hyde Park of Paris, where the most splendid equipages and finest horses of the capital are displayed . It is also celebrated for the annual procession or promenade de Longchamp. In one cf the principal alleys, near the gale next the Neuilly road, is an excellent cafe, and at a short dis- tance beyond it a good restaurant ; both are much frequented in fine weather by genteel company. A little further on, towards Neuilly, is Bagatelle, a beauti- ful maison de plaisance, erected by B clanger, in consequence of a wager between the Count d'Artois and the Prince of Wales that the house could not be built in 60 days; it was finished in 58. This has been lately purchased by Lord Yar- mouth for the sum of 313,100 fi\, and is being fitted up in a style of great elegance and luxury. Near Passy, in the Bois de Boulogne, is the Chateau de la Muette, formerly crown property, but now belonging to M. Erard, and partly occupied as the Institution Orthopcdique of M. Jules Guerin. (See Directory.) Immediately fronting this is Ranelagh, a well-known and most agreeable place of pub- lic amusement. It consists of a capacious ball-room, a small 39 458 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. theatre, and good gardens, with a cafe attached, wherein balls are given every Sunday and Thursday during the summer, and dramatic representations once a- week. It is generally^ well attended, and the subscription balls are the best in the neighbourhood of Paris. The Bois de Boulogne is well known to Botanists and Geo- logists. The Bois de Vincennes is to the east of Paris very nearly what the Bois de Boulogne is to the west. It contains, how- ever, besides the natural attraction of a young wood, no places of amusement, nor villas like its rival. The stranger may wander through it in silence and in solitude, at all times of the day, and may not, perhaps, therefore find it the less agree- able. (See Vincennes, Environs.) The Pre St. Gervais and the Bois de Romainville are the one an open tract of country behind Belleville, the other, an adjoining wood, much frequented by the inhabitants of the capital, and possessing many points of attraction. [For a list of Conveyances, see annexed Table of Fetes.] ALFORT. — This village, situated two leagues south-east of Paris, at the confluence of the Seine and the Marne, is cele- brated for a royal veterinary school, founded by Bourgelatp in 1776, and is famous not only for its distinguished pupii?, but also for illustrious persons, such as Yicq d'Azyr, Dauben- ton, Fourcroy, etc., who have been professors in it. This es- tablishment possesses a library of domestic zoology, a cabinet of comparative anatomy, and another of pathology, which are open to the public. There are also a botanical garden ; hospi- tals for sick animals; a laboratory for chemistry and natural philosophy ; a pharmacy; ground for the cultivation of forage; a school of practical agriculture ; a flock of sheep for experi- ments on the crossing of breeds and the improvement of wool ; a fiock of Thibet goats; a herd of foreign swine, and an am- phitheatre, where lectures are delivered upon veterinary me- ENVIRONS OF PARIS, AUTEUIL. 459 dicine and rural economy ; besides farriers' shops, buildings for experiments, and a bee-house. The pupils from the north of France are admitted at Alfort upon the authorisation of the Minister of the Interior, either as boarders, at 360 fr. a-year, as gratuitous pupils, or on paving half the charge for board- ers. The Minister of War has 40 pupils in the school de- stined for veterinary service in the cavalry. They are received from the age of sixteen to twenty-five. The duration of the studies is four years. They must all be able to read and write, and understand arithmetic, grammar, and smith's work. The number of pupils received is fixed at 300. Ani- mals that require treatment are admitted at a charge of 50 sous a-day for a horse, and 12 sous for a dog. If their owners are poor, the only charge made is for their keep. In case of murrain among cattle, some of the pupils, or even professors, are sent to treat them. There is a similar institution at Lyons, for the South of France. ANTONY — a small village leagues south of Paris, possesses a good church of the 14th century. ARCUEIL. — The name of this place, situated three quarters of a league northwest of the barrier of the same name, is derived from the arches of the aqueduct, constructed by the Romans. (See p. 421.) The church is of the age of St. Louis, and is remarkable for the delicate sculpture of its porch. The country round Arcueilis pleasing and highly picturesque ; it abounds with neat country houses, amongst which are those in which Berthollet and the celebrated Laplace resided. ARGENTEUIL. — This large village, containing 5,000 in- habitants, about 2^ leagues north of Paris, is pleasantly si- tuated on the Seine, over which there is a bridge. There was formerly a priory here, founded in 656, to which Eloisa re- tired in 1120, till the Paraclet was prepared for her by Abe- lard ; the village was once strongly fortified ; remains of the fortifications may still be seen. ARNOUVILLE — four leagues north of Paris, on the river Grould. The chateau, built about the year 1757, situated in a park, consists of three hundred acres. Louis XVIII. passed three days in the chateau previous to his entry into Paris, on the 8th of July, 1815 ; and here it was that he drew up his Charter. AUTEUIL— about a league to the west of Paris, on the road to Versailles, is pleasantly situated at the entrance of 460 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. the Bois de Boulogne. It is famous for having been the fa- vourite retreat of Boileau, Moliere, Racine, Lafontaine, la Chapelle* Franklin, Helvetius, Cabanis, Condorcet, Count Rumford, and other eminent men. It contains a number of handsome villas. The church was built in the beginning of the 17th century, except the porch and the tower, which are of the 13th. BAGNEUX — one of the most ancient villages in the vici- nity of Paris, situated on an eminence 1% league to the south of the capital, abounds with country houses. The church was built in the 13th century, and the interior is much ad- mired. BAGNOLET. — This village, one league to the east of Paris by the Pantin road, produces a great quantity of fruit, and is celebrated for peaches, and pits of clay suitable for the manu- facture of the finest porcelain. BELLEVILLE — situated at the extremity of the faubourg du Temple, commands a fine view of Paris. The side of the hill is covered with neat country-houses and a great number of guinguettes, where a multitude of Parisians, of the lower classes, assemble on Sundays and holidays. BELLE VI J E — a village two leagues west of Paris, on the hill leading to IVleudon from Sevres, delightfully situated. From the terrace the view of Paris, and the sinuosities of the Seine for several leagues, is enchanting. Upon this spot for- merly existed a palace, demolished after the Restoration. BERCY.— At this extensive suburb of Paris a considerable part of the wine from Champagne and Burgundy, brandy, vinegar, and oil, for the supply of the capital, is landed, ar- riving from the interior by canals which meet at the junction of the Seine and the Marne, at a short distance. The ware- houses are very extensive, and are used for the bonding of wine, where it is kept for sale by the merchants of the capital. BICETRE. — This is a celebrated hospital, situated in the parish of Gentilly, at the distance of half a league from the Barriere d'ltalie, on the west of the high road from Paris to Fontainebleau. An ancient estate was purchased by John, bishop of Winchester, who built there, in 1204, a chateau, which was named Chateau de Wincestre, from whence came Bichestre, Bicestre, Bicetre. The Duke of Berry, to whom the chateau belonged in the beginning of the 15th century, BICETRE. 4G1 gave it, in 141G, to the chapter of Notre Dame, of whom Louis XIII. bought it in 1C32, and erected upon its site an hospital for military invalids, which took the title of Comman- der to de St. Louis. It contained a chapel dedicated to St. John. Louis XIV. having built the Hotel cles Invalides, this house was annexed to the general hospital de la Salpetriere. Bi- cetre is happily situated on lofty ground, and the air is belter than in most of the hospitals of Paris. Great difficully was experienced in obtaining a supply of water ; but two wells having been sunk to the depth of 166 feet, water was found, and is now raised by means of a wooden machine constructed for that purpose. The hospital of Bicetre is now devoted to a threefold purpose ; it is an asylum and workhouse for indigent men, a lunatic asylum, and a prison. The plan of Bicetre, with the exception of some additions, presents a square of about 900 feet on each side, which contains three principal courts; the first serves for an entrance from the Fontainebleau road ; in the second are, on the south, a plain church and the prison; and on the north, the infirmary; the opposite side looks to a garden surrounded by low buildings occupied by infirm old men. The third court presents some irregular buildings, in which are placed the lunatics; but a new division, called les Nouvelles Colonnes, from its being ornamented with columns, was constructed in 1822, at an ex- pense of 400,000 fr. ; it consists of two piles separated from each other by a small garden. The columns support an en- tablature, and form to eagh pile a peristyle, where the luna- tics walk when the weather prevents them from taking air in the garden. The indigent and infirm old men occupy the greater part of the building. They have no private rooms, but there are large rooms w 7 ith workshops and dormi- tories, as also several gardens and court-yards for exer- cise. The greatest cleanliness prevails in every part of the establishment. Those who work receive trifling wages, part of which is expended in procuring them better food, and the rest is given to them when they l^eave the asy- lum. The daily allowance of food to the indigent is a portion of soup, a pound and a quarter of bread, four ounces of meat for dinner, vegetables or cheese at night, and a quar- ter of a pint of wine. At the age of 70 they have a double portion of wine; and when they have been 30 years in the house, they receive a double allowance of every kind. The 39. 462 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. class of persons called reposans are such servants of the hos- pital as are unable lo work. They are treated the same as the other paupers, except that Ihey go out when they please, and are allowed a small chest of drawers and curtains to their beds. When sick, the paupers are removed to the infirmary, where every attention is paid to them. There is a dispensary belonging to the establishment, and extensive beds in the garden for common medicinal herbs. There are 3,200 beds destined for the indigent, who, being mostly aged persons, are treated with the respect due to their years and misfortunes. The most afflicting spectacle in the interior of this vast esta- blishment is the lunatics, 700 in number, who have in gene- ral the same allowance as the paupers ; but more bread is given them on account of their greater appetite. They are never chained or beaten, but, when dangerous, are confined with a strait-jacket and shut up. Otherwise the most lenient treatment is observed towards them ; and to those who are capable of it, daily occupation is given on a farm which is placed at a small distance from the hospital. This method of treating lunatics has been found to succeed beyond all expec- tation. Formerly a vast prison was situated within the walls of this hospital, in which all persons condemned lothe galleys or to death awaited their punishment. This has now been transferred to the new prison sometimes called Le Nouveau Bicetre, in the rue de la Roquette. BONDY — a village three leagues from Paris, on the road to Meaux, is remarkable for its teest, formerly the haunt of robbers and assassins. The Ifanal de l'Ourcq passes through it. BOURG-LA-REINE — in a valley two leagues to the south of Paris, is traversed by the high road lo Orleans. There is a house here, with an extensive park, built by Henry IV. for Gabrielle d'Estrees. Here Louis XV. received the infanta of Spain, in 1722. The cattle-market, called Marche de Sceaux, for the butchers of the capital, is held every Monday, on the high-road at Bourg-la-Reine. BUC — a village leagues south-west of Paris, is re- markable for the aqueduct erected by Louis XIV., which con- veys water to Versailles, from which it is half a league dis- tant: it is supported by 19 arches. Near this place is the source of the Bievre. CHANTILLY — a town ten leagues to the north of Paris, CHANTILLY — CHARENTON. 463 was once celebrated as the residence of the illustrious house of Conde. The estate of Chantilly having lapsed to the crown for want of heirs in 1484, Charles VIO. gave it to Guillaume de Montmorency, his nephew; and one of the de- scendants of that nobleman having forfeited his head and his estates to the crown in 1632, Louis XIII. presented Chantilly to the Princess de Conde, sister of the duke alluded to. It was finally presented to the Great Conde in 1661, by Louis XVI. Here the inheritors of that title continued to live in princely style till the Revolution, when the principal build- ing forming the palace was demolished, and the gardens, and works of art, except such as had been removed and secreted, were destroyed. The other buildings were converted into a prison, and subsequently into barracks. Upon the Restora- tion, in 1814, the remaining buildings of the chateau of Chan- tilly were restored to the house of Conde, and many restora- tions and improvements were made by its late possessor, who frequently resided here, and made it his principal hunting- seat. On his melancholy death in 1830, Chantilly descended to the Duke d'Aumale, fourth son of King Louis Philippe. The chateau is a handsome edifice, and the interior contains some curious paintings. The grounds are very beautiful, and arc laid out in the English style. The forest of Chantilly, which joins the park, contains 7,600 acres. In the midst of it is a circular area called the Table-ronde, from which 12 roads branch out in different directions. It used to be the rendezvous of hunting parties, and here the day of St. Hubert, the patron of sportsmen, was annually celebrated. The lakes of Commelle, four in number, are worth a visit. Near them is the Chateau de la Loge, a small Gothic structure, said to have been built in 1227, by Blanche de Castile, mother of St. Louis, which was restored and beautifully fitted up in 1826. Races take place here on May 16th, and are exceedingly well attended. The Hotel a" Angleterre is a very good hotel. CHARENTON — was celebrated in the times of Henry IV. and Louis XII!. and XIV. for the controversies that were carried on here with regard to the Protestants, and for the destruction of its Protestant church, on the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in 1685. It is now how ever known for the great hos- pital for insane persons of both sexes, which was founded in 1644, by the minister Sebastien Leblanc, but was after- wards formed into a boarding-house by the Freres de la Cha 464 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. rite, for the cure of lunacy. In 1797, it was converted by the government into an asylum for the especial reception of 400 lunatics whose cases admit a hope of cure; but, neverthe- less, others are received whose state of insanity excludes all hope. The mode of treatment pursued here, by giving ra- tional employment and amusement to the patient, wilh the ab- sence of as much appearance of constraint as possible, has been found very successful. The house is very spacious, and a great many important additions have been made to it within a few years. The chambers and dormitories are spacious, well lighted, airy, and clean; the furniture is of wood, ex- cept the bedsteads, which are of iron. The passages are warmed by means of cast-iron pipes, fixed under the floor. The asylum is under the immediate authority of the Minister of the Interior, and the superintendence of a special commit- tee, appointed by the minister. Persons are received here gratuitously, and as boarders. The gratuitous admission can only be obtained from the minister, and for a determinate time.-— There are three classes of boarders, viz. : first, those who pay 1,300 fr. and upwards; the second, 975 fr.; and the third, (550 fr,, including washing. Certain certificates are to be presented on the part of lunatics previous to their being al- lowed to enter, and some formalities have to be complied with. Admission is granted every day, at whatever hour the patients may be presented ; but the public are only admitted from nine to four o'clock, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sun- days. No one is aliowed to enter into such parts of the inte- rior of the establishment as are occupied by the patients, but strangers are shown the courts and gardens. Lunatics, cured or uncured, are restored to their families on the permission of the authority which requested or ordered their admission. — In this village a house, that once belonged to Gabrielle d'Eslrees, still exists; and part of another remains, once te- nanted by the great preacher Saurin. iiHATILLON.— No spot in the environs of Paris commands a more extensive and picturesque view than this village, which is situated upon a lofty hill, at 1J£ league south-west of Paris. It abounds in corn, vines, fruit, and vegetables ; which are cultivated for the Paris market. C HATE NAY— a miie and a half south of Sceaux, is cele- brated as being the birth-place of Voltaire, in 1694. GIIOISY LE ROL— This pretty Tillage, 2J6 leagues from COMPIEGNE — ENGHIEN-LES-BAINS. 465 Paris, is so called from a chateau which formerly existed here, and was a favourite residence of Louis XV. It is now celebrated for its glass-houses, which are on a large scale, * and contain a fine establishment for painting on glass, etc. COMPIEGNE. — This town, about 17 leagues north-east of Paris, is situated near the confluence of the Oise and the Aisne, upon the Flanders road, and possesses a palace which is pleasantly situated between the town and the forest. The exterior is elegant, but not magnificent. The apartments are splendid, and superbly decorated and furnished. It was in the palace of Compiegne that Napoleon received the arch- duchess Maria Louisa, and he caused it to be magnificently fitted up for that occasion. The grand gallery, erected by him, is above 100 feet in length, 40 in breadth, and 30 in height. The roof, which is vaulted, is supported on each side by twenty fluted marble columns, and the flutings are richly gilt. The ceiling is divided into 12 grand compartments, beautifully painted in allegorical figures, representing Napo- leon's principal victories, by Girodet. The gtand bed-room is very magnificent. There are some fine paintings in the chapel and other apartments. The gardens in front of the palace are agreeably laid out, and an arbour of iron frame work, 4,800 feet in length, and 14 feet broad, leads from the steps of the palace to the forest, forming a delightful shady walk in summer. There is also a canal of the same length. The forest of Compiegne contains 29,600 acres, and is well laid out in roads and green alleys for the purpose of hunting. This is one of the most ancient possessions of the royal family of France. It is known that Clovis had a seat at Compiegne, and the property has never been alienated from the crown. It was at the siege of Compiegne that the Maid of Orleans was made prisoner by the English in 1430. A camp for mi- litary evolutions is generally formed here every autumn. The town contains about 6,000 inhabitants, and races take place while the camp is assembled here in the autumn. CORBEIL — eight leagues south of Paris, on the Seine, is a small town, at which a considerable trade in corn and flowsr is carried on with the capital. ENGHIEN-LES-BAINS. — This village, four leagues north of Paris, is situated upon the banks of the lake of St. Gratien, between the heights of Montmorency and the wood of St. Gratien. The sulphuric spring, to which it owes its cele- 466 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. brity as a bathing-place, was discovered, in 1766, by Pore Cotte, the learned rector of Montmorency. The celebrated Fourcroy analyzed the waters, and ascertained that fifty litres of water weighing fifty kilogrammes contain about : — Gramm. MiiHg lo litres b72 rnilhgrs. of sulphuric hydrogen gas . 4 4G2 . Carbonic acid gas . . . • 9 827 Sulphate of lime ... . . 17 687 Sulphate of magnesia, crystallized . . .8 3g >. Carbonate of lime . . . . . . j 1 0f Carbonate of magnesia . . . . o 707 Muriate of magnesia crystallized . . . 4 -$9 Muriate of soda . . . . ,1 275 Silicium 1 . • i 1 Matter extractive \ <* uantlt ? ^ascertainable. The magnificent establishment of baths on the border of the lake is remarkable for its cleanliness and elegance, and affords accommodation equal to the principal baths of the capital. A second establishment of baths, called Bains de la Pcchcrie, although less happily situated than the former, occupy a delightful spot. The building is plain, and the gardens are agreeable. There are good hotels and boarding- houses here as well as public gardens, and other places of amusement. Upon the lake of St. Gratien are boals with sails and oars, and in the centre is. a cafe. Horses and asses are ready saddled for visitors to ride to the delightful villages in the neighbourhood. Concerts are given here during the summer ; and frequent dances attract the Parisians in great numbers. To go to the baths of Enghien is now as much the fashion as it was once to goto Spa. E Ft ME M 0 N VILLE . — This village, situated 10 leagues north- east of Paris, on the road to Senlis, is remarkable for its cha- teau, in a dependence of which Jean Jacques Rousseau died. This estate became, in 1763, the property of M. de Girardin, who, having learnt that the smallness of Rousseau's income haa compelled him to quit Paris, invited him to Ermenonville, where he arrived on the 20th of May, 1778, but died on the 2d of July following, and was buried in an island in the great park, called ile das Peupliers, where a monument was erected to his memory. The park and grounds are laid out with great taste, and are well known to the lovers of the picturesque. FONTAINEBLEAX) . — This town, which contains 9,000 souls, is situated in the department of the Seine and Mai ne, F0NTA1NEBLKAU. 467 15 leagues from Paris, upon the high-road to Lyons. It has ever been a favourite residence of the kings of France, and up to the period of the Revolution the court always passed some months there every year. Francis J. may he considered as the restorer of Fonlainebleau and the founder of the palace. In 1539, that monarch entertained Charles Y. .there with a pomp till then unknown. Francis II., in 1580, held an assem- bly of the notables upon the famous conspiracy of Amboise. In 1654, Christina, queen of Sweden, who abdicated the throne at 17 years of age, retired to Fonlainebleau. it was in this palace that Napoleon kept Pius VII. a prisoner for two years, and here it was that in 1814 and 1815 he abdicated his title of emperor of the French, king of Italy, etc. The palace is one of the most magnificent in France, and exhibits noble specimens of the different slyles of architecture, from the time of Francis I. to the present day. Situated at the bottom of a valley, it forms a mass almost triangular, and consists of five piles of buildings separated by as many courts and galleries. The principal entrance to the palace is by a vast square, called la Cour da Cheval Blanc. Of the various galleries which once decorated the interior, that of Francis I., which is 196 feet long, is the most remarkable; it contains the fresco paintings of Primaticcioand Rossi, which after a lapseof three centuries have recently been restored to their pristine beauty, as well as many specimens of the works of Paolo Poncio. This gallery also contains a series of marble busts of great historic charac- ters. It was in the Galerie des Cerfs that the chamberlain Mo- naldeschi was put to death by order, and it is said, in the presence of Christina, queen of Sweden. The banqueling- roora is a most magnificent hall, and the walls were painted by Primaticcio. The gallery of Diana has been lately fitted up, and contains a series of beautiful small pictures from the history of France, by living artists; those by Richard, Reviel, Granet, Laurent, and Madame Lescot, are the most admired. The chapel is ornamented with paintings and gilding, and is paved with various-coloured marble. The apartments of St. Louis, of whom letters dated from my deserts in Fontainebleau exist, are still shown. In one of the rooms is seen the table on which Napoleon signed his abdication, and on abrass plate let into the table that event is recorded. Very great additions and improvements have been made in the palace by king Louis Philippe. The older part of it has in general under - 468 ENVIRONS OF PAHlS. gone a thorough repair, and some portions, particularly a gallery erected in the time of Henry II., have been restored in a style of great magnificence. The gardens of the palace are celebrated for their beauty ; they contain some fine pieces of water in which carp grow to an enormous size ; and they can also boast of a large vine said to have been originally brought from Cyprus, the parent tree of the Chasselas grape. The forest of Fontainebleau contains above 34,000 acres, and is remarkable for the variety and singularity of its romantic prospects. There are some very remarkable rocks to be found in it ; and there is also a well sunk to an enormous depth. This forest, which abounds in slags, deer, etc., has ever been a favorite spot for hunting excursions. In the spring and the autumnitismuch frequented by artists, who find there excellent studies for romantic landscape. No forest in France possesses finer trees, or a greater number and variety of plants. The streets of Fontainebleau are wide, regular, and remarkably clean, and the houses are well built of brick and stone. It contains two manufactories, one of earthen-ware and the other of porcelain; two hospitals, one for the sick and the other for foundlings and the aged or infirm ; two fine barracks, an hotel de ville, a college, a theatre, and public baths. Its grapes, which are highly esteemed, are called chasselas. The principal occupation of the working classes is timber and stone-cutting. Nearly all the paving-stones used in the streets of Paris are brought from Fontainebleau. FONTENAY-AUX-ROSES — derives its name from its great number of fountains, or springs, and rose trees, the produce of which the inhabitants of Fontenay sell to perfumers. They pay great attention to the cultivation of strawberries, which the peasants bring to Paris. The village is agreeably situated on a hill two leagues south-west of Paris. The church dates from the end of the 13th century. FONTENAY-SOUS-BOIS.— This village is contiguous to the forest of Vincennes, at about two leagues to the east of Paris, and abounds in fine springs. Its church is of the age of Francis I., or Henry II. FRANC ON VILLE — four leagues north-west of Paris, is situated on the slope of a hill, in the most agreeable part of the valley of Montmorency, and is surrounded by a great num- ber of elegant country houses. The high road to Rouen passes through this village, MARLY. 469 GRENELLE — a large and rapidly increasing suburb of Paris, upon the left bank of the Seine, between that river, Issy, and Vaugirard. A handsome church, a theatre, and many fine houses, have been built within a few years. A gave for the mooring of boats has been formed below the village ot Grenelle, and a bridge erected, which leads to the Versailles road at the point where it branches off to St. Cloud. The Plaine de Grenelle was long the place where capital sentences, pronounced by the court-martial of the first military division , were carried into execution. ISSY — one league from Paris, is supposed to have de- rived its name from an ancient temple dedicated to Isis. On a height opposite the church, is an ancient structure, called Maison de Childebert, and it appears that some of the French kings of the first race had a palace here. In this village was represented, in 1659, the first French opera, a pastoral enti- tled Isse. The author was Pierre Perrin, a native of Lyons. Here also, in 1695, were held conferences, presided by Bos- suet, in order to examine the doctrine of some books published by Fenelon, which were condemned. Cardinal Fleury had a country-house at Issy, in which he died in 1743. The chateau of the village, with its finely-wooded grounds, belongs to the Prince de Conti. IVRY — a remarkably fertile village three-quarters of a league to the south of Paris, is built on the side of a hill, and embellished with a great number of pleasant country-houses. At the extremity of the village stand the picturesque ruins of an ancient chapel. The wine-shops and petty eating-houses in the Plaine d'lvry are much frequented by the lower classes of the Parisians. MALMA1SON. — This chateau, three and a half leagues west of Paris, and dependent on the village of Reuil, is cele- brated as haying been the favourite residence of Bonaparte and the Empress Josephine, who died at Malmaison, on the 13th of May, 1814, and was buried in the chapel of Reuil. Napoleon retired there on the 23d of June, 1815, the day after his second abdication, and left it on the 29th. The chateau was never remarkable in an architectural point of view, and has been sold since the Restoration, together with the estate, divided into lots. MARLY— four leagues west of Paris, on the road to St. Germain-en-Laye, was formerly celebrated for jts magnificen 40 470 ENVIRONS OF PARIS, ch&teau and gardens, erected by Louis XIV., but they have been destroyed. The aqueduct and hydraulic machine of Marly deserve attention. The old machine, which presented a deformed mass of timber work upon the Seine, has been replaced by a steam-engine, which occupies an elegant pavilion .upon the bank of the river. The pipes which convey the water to the height of Louvecienne, where the first arch of the aqueduct, 70 feet high, is situated, mount the hill supported on stone props, and a double row of trees has been planted along the line which they pursue. The pavilion built for Madame Du- barry, mistress of Louis XV., by Ledoux, in the space of three months, is now the property of M. Laffitte. Being elevated 300 feet above the level of the Seine, the view from it is ex- tensive and delightful. The villages of Bougival on the high road, where the visitor should alight and examine the church of the 12th century, and of Louvecienne, are two of the most beautiful in the neighbourhood of the capital. MEUDON — a village two leagues south-west of Paris, is principally remarkable for the chateau and park purchased of the widow of the Marquis de Louvois, his minister, by Louis XIV., who gave them to the Dauphin, his son. The chateau stands on an eminence, commanding an extensive prospect. There were formerly two chateaux built here; one in advance of the present chateau on the grand terrace. The approach is through a grand avenue, at the end of which is a magnificent terrace 260 yards in length, and 140 in breadth. It was erected in 1600, by Henry de Lorraine, son of the Duke de Guise. The park and gardens were laid out by Le Notre in his best style, and are extensive. Louis XVI. sometimes inhabited Meudon, whilst his aunts dwelt at Belie- vue; and, in 1789, the Dauphin died there at the age of seven years. During the Revolution, this place was used to make experiments upon engines of war, and some companies of aerostiers were formed here for the service of the army. A fire having broken out on the 16th of March, 1795, the chateau was nearly laid in ruins. When Bonaparte became emperor, he ordered the dilapidated chateau to be taken down. The gardens were replanted, and the smaller cha- teau repaired, and magnificently furnished. In 1812, it was appropriated for the residence of Napoleon's son. In 1814, Louis XVIH. annexed Meudon to the domains of the crown ; and it was afterwards used J)y the JDuc de, Pordeaux. It MONTMARTRE. 471 has been recently entirely repaired and furnished throughout for the Dukes of Orleans and Nemours. There are some fine apartmenls in the interior, particularly those intended for the bed-room of the King and Queen, and for her Ma- jesty's salle de reception. The walls and curtains of these rooms have all been formed of the richest Lyons embroidered silk, and the furniture is exceedingly splendid. There are also several good pictures here by modern French artists. From the windows, and indeed from any of the terraces, one of the finest views of Paris is to be enjoyed. Foreigners are admitted on demanding permission at the chateau. The famous Rabelais was the curate of the church of this village. The wood of Meudon is extensive, and is much frequented in the summer by the Parisians and the inhabitants of the neighbourhood, particularly on Sundays, Mondays, and Thursdays, when a ball is given below the village. At the foot of the hill of Meudon, near Sevres, are the curious chalk quarries of Moulineaux. MONT CALVAIRE (also called Mont Valerien).— This hill, which is a conical insulated mount, is one of the highest elevations near Paris, being 558 French feet above the Seine. It is two leagues and a half from Paris, and is similar in its composition to Montmartre. It derives its name from a chapel consecrated here in 1633, on which occasion three lofty crosses were planted on the summit of the hill. From t^at time it was always respected as a place of religious devotion, and several hermits took up their abode on its sides : pil- grimages also were solemnly made to it. At the Revolution the hill was desecrated, but was partially restored by permis- sion of Napoleon. At the Restoration pilgrimages again came into vogue for a short time, but at the revolution of 1830, the hill and its dependencies were finally taken from the influence of the church and devoted to lay purposes. The road to it is by Neuilly and Suresnes ; from its summit is to be obtained one of the finest views in this part of France. MONTMARTRE— derives its name from Mom Martis, being so called because a temple of Mars existed on the hill in the time of the R omans. Before the Revolution there was on the summit of t he hill a celebrated convent of Benedictine nuns, some remains of which may still be seen near the church. At the foot of the hill, at No. 50, rue de la Chausee des Mar- tyrs, is the Asik Royah de la Providence for 60 aged and i n- 472 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. firm men and women. This village is remarkable for its numerous windmills and guinguettes. The latter are much frequented. The views from the hill are fine, and Paris is seen to great advantage. On the summit is a telegraph which corresponds with Brest, Bordeaux, and Spain. The quarries of Montmartre supply the capital with gypsum, or, as it is more commonly called, plaster of Paris. The geological structure of this hill is highly interesting, as the ascending series of strata, from the passage of the mlcaire grossier into the gypseous marls to the upper fresh water, and even the di- luvium, is easily investigated. Near the summit of the hill, 300 feet above the River, is a newly-erected fountain supplied with water from the Seine by a steam-engine at St. Ouen. MONTMORENCY — a small town, four leagues and a half north of Paris, delightfully situated on the summit of a hill, and commanding a fine view of the valley of Montmorency, which is reckoned one of the most beautiful and picturesque spots in France. The house called the Hermitage is remark- able for having been inhabited by Jean Jacques Rousseau. It afterwards became the property of the celebrated musical composer Gretry, who died there in 1813; this house has been spoiled by the incongruous additions made by the pre- sent proprietor. There are no remains of the ancient chateau of the Montmorencies, or of that called the Luxembourg, built by the famous Lebrun, in the reign of Louis XIV., and which was remarkable for its agreeable plantations and the fine prospects it commanded. The church is a beautiful building of the 15th century ; and is situated on the slope of the hill in a delightful situation. The forest of Montmorency is very extensive and highly picturesque. A ride by the Hermitage to Ecouen, or by Andilly to the Rendezvous de Chasse, is one of the greatest treats that a lover of fine scenery can enjoy. Horses and asses are always to be found in the market-place, ready saddled, at moderate prices. The restaurateurs are good. The country round is well-known for its cherries. MORTEFONTAINE — a village, nine leagues north-east of Paris, derives its name from M. Le Pelletier de Mortefontaine, who built a chateau there in 1770. This estate was bought in 1790, and greatly improved by M. Durney, a banker, and subsequently became the property and favourite residence of Joseph Bonaparte. It afterwards belonged to the Prince de Conde. The gardens and parks, which are well watered and NEUILLY— PASSY. 473 ornamented with fountains, bridges, pavilions, and other works of arts, are highly worthy of a visit from the tourist. NANTERRE.— This village, two leagues and a half wes of Paris, is one of the most ancient places in its environs. Ste. Genevieve, the patroness of Paris, was born in this village in the 5th century. The church was built about the year 1300. Nanterre contains an abattoir for hogs, and is celo« brated for its sausages and cakes. NEUILLY.— This village, delightfully situated at half a league from Paris on the road to St. Germain-en-Laye, has ac- quired much celebrity on account of its magnificent bridge over the Seine, its elegant villas, and the interesting views which it commands. In 1606 there was merely a ferry at this place, but Henry IV., with his queen, having been precipitated into the water by the horses taking fright, a wooden bridge was constructed, which, however, did not last many years. The present superb structure was built by Perronet; it is 750 feet long, and is composed of five arches, each 120 feet in breadth, and 30 feet in height. Here, too, is the summer residence of King Louis Philippe, consisting of a chateau, laid out in the Italian style, with only one storey, and situated in a beautiful and highly-cultivated park of more than 100 acres. The apartments of the Queen and of the Duke of Orleans are re- markably elegant; their floorings are formed of the choicest woods, and their furniture is of the most tasteful and luxuri- ous description. Those of the Duke de Nemours, though plainer, are still very beautiful ; and the whole of the palace is arranged with great attention to comfort. A collection of pictures of the modern French school has been formed here by his Majesty. It is impossible to get a sight of the chateau while the royal family are resident in it. New houses are perpetually rising in this thriving village. NOGENT-SUR-MARNE — an ancient and agreeable village, situated on the summit of a hill, two leagues and a quarter east of the capital, commanding an enchanting prospect. PASSY— from its proximity to the capital and the Bois de Boulogne, and its elevated situation, which renders the air salubrious and the views extensive and agreeable, is much frequented both by Parisians and foreigners ; it contains several pleasant houses with extensive gardens. But it is principally celebrated for its mineral waters, which are strongly impregnated with iron. The spring rises in a gar- 40. 474 ETmfcONS OF PARIS. den, with fine walks and terraces, and is worth a visit. The celebrated Franklin resided at Passy in 1788, and a street, and a barrier leading to it, are called by his name. Here also died the famous Abbe Raynal, in 1796, after having resided in the village for several years; in 1803, Piccini, th® rival o£ Gluck ; and in 1834 Bellini, in whose premature death the musical world lost a composer of first-rate promise. POISSY — is situated at one of the extremities of the forest of St. Germain, on the left bank of the Seine. It is six leagues west of the capital, and is a very ancient town, where the* kings of France had a palace at a remote period. Here Charles le Chauve held an assembly of the prelates of his kingdom. St. Louis, who was born at Poissy, inhabited the chciteau, and did much to embellish and enrich the town. He built the stone bridge, which is one of the longest in the king- dom. That monarch also established the cattle-market, still held there for the supply of Paris, every Thursday. Philip le Hardi, son of St. Louis, erected at Poissy, in 1304, a hand- some church in honour of his father, on part of the site of one built there in the 12th century. In one of the chapels of the nave, the font in which St. Louis is said to have been bap- tised is preserved; and the painted glass in the windows re- presents his birth. Poissy is also famous in history as the place where the conferences, called the Colloque de Poissy, Were held between the doctors of the Catholic and Protestant faith in 1561. In this town is a prison, called Maison Centrale de Detention, to which are sent persons condemned to solitary confinement or imprisonment for any term of years. PONT DE ST. MAUR— a village so called from a bridge over the Marne which existed here in the 12th century. There is a very curious passage here cut through the rock for shorten- ing the navigation ; it is thirty feet wide, and the same in height, and is worth visiting. This village is at the south- east extremity of the Bois de Vincennes. PRE ST. GERVAIS — owes its name to a considerable meadow (pre) in part of Pantin, and a chapel built in it, under the in- vocation of St. Gervais. This spot is almost entirely covered with small country-houses, and guinguettes. Its situation is favourable for pleasure excursions, while the proximity of the wood of Romainville is a still further inducement to the admirers of rural scenery. It is a mile north-east of JParis. UAINCY~-in the bounds of the parish of Livry, is a chateau, KAMBOUILLET — REtJIL. 475 three leagues and a half from Paris. It formerly belonged to the family of the Sanguins of Livry, but was ceded by them, in 1750, to the Duke of Orleans, who spared no expense to render it a princely residence. During the Revolution it was purchased by M. Ouvrard, the banker, and afterwards fell into the hands of Napoleon, thus becoming crown property ; it was returned to the Orleans family on the Restoration, and thus again become crown property after the Revolution of 1830. The grounds are laid out in the English style, and the chateau has been much improved by King Louis Philippe. RAMBOUILLET — is a pretty small town, on the road to Chartres, 12 leagues south-west of Paris, with a royal cha- teau situated in a park, abounding in wood and water. The approach from the village is by a long avenue, planted with double and treble rows of lofty trees, the tops of which are so broad and thick as nearly to meet. This avenue opens into a lawn, in the centre of which is the chateau. It is a vast gothic structure, entirely of brick, built in the form of a horse-shoe, and flanked with towers. Francis I. died in this palace on the 21st of March, 1547 ; Louis XIV. held his court in it for some years; with Louis XV. and Louis XVI. it was a favourite residence; and Charles X. frequently visited it on hunting excursions. The grand saloon is of immense dimensions, with a floor of white marble and two rows of marble columns of the Corinthian order. The apartments, which are handsomely furnished, contain numerous pictures of value. In one of the turrets which forms a wing of the palace, is shown the apartment in which Francis L slept and held his levee ; it is still in the same condition as in his time. On the sides of the bed are portraits of Louis XIV. and Louis XV., and of Philip IV. of Spain and his queen. This palace has become celebrated from having witnessed the abdication of Charles X., and from the movement made upon it by the Parisians in 1830. Near the palace stands a vast building called le Commun, and the hotel of the governor. The stables are capable of receiving 500 horses. The gardens, which are extensive, were laid out by Le Notre ; one is planted in the French, the other in the English, style, and both are well watered by canals and lakes. The parks contain 3,000 acres, and are surrounded by a forest of nearly 30,000 acres. RETJIL — a populous village, three and a half leagues west of Paris, on the road to St. Germain, The church has a 476 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. tower of the 12th century ; the rest of the edifice is of the time of Francis I. In one of the chapels of the nave is the monu- ment of the Empress Josephine. West of the village are some fine barracks of the time of Louis XV. Cardinal Richelieu had a country seat at Reuil, where he resided for many years. ROMAINVILLE — a village, one league and a half from Paris, with a fine chateau and park. The chateau, on an eminence, affords one of the finest views in the environs of Paris. The Bois de Romainville is not very extensive, but its proximity to Paris, and the agreeable shade of its tufted trees, cause it to be much frequented by the inhabitants of the capital. ROSNY — a village on the banks of the Seine and on the high road to Caen, at fifteen leagues and a half from Paris, is re- markable for an elegant country-seat, surrounded by a park of 4,000 acres, in which the celebrated Sully, minister of Henry IV., was born, and which was bought in 1818, by the Duchess of Berry. Ail the furniture, pictures, etc., have been lately sold, and the chateau is now said to belong to an En- glish gentleman. It is situated on an island called lie de Rosny, and its grounds are very beautiful. SCEAXJX — successively called Sceaux Colbert, Sceaux du Maine, and finally Sceaux Penthievre, after the different pro- prietors of the chateau, is a large village two leagues and a quarter south of Paris. Colbert here erected a most magnificent chateau, with an immense park laid out by Le Notre. In 1700, this estate was purchased by the Duke du Maine, son of Louis XIV. and Madame de Montespan, after whose death it passed into the hands of the Duke de Penthievre. At the Revolution the chateau and park were sold as national property, and the chateau demolished, but the mayor of Sceaux and some other persons associated and bought the part called the orangerie, which they converted into a place of amuse- ment. Every Sunday, from the 1st of May to the 1st of No- vember, there is a bal champetre in this ancient garden of Colbert, which is much frequented. The weekly cattle-mar- ket, called Marche de Sceaux, is held on the road leading from this place to Rourg la Reine. SEVRES — two leagues west of Paris, is situated on a hill on the high road leading to Versailles, and is one of the most ancient in the environs of the metropolis, it being known to have existed in 560. It is principally celebrated for its mag- nificent manufactory of porcelain. This establishment was formed in the CMteau d© Vincennes, l» 1738, hy the Marquis skvrks. 477 de Fulvy, governor of the chateau, In 1750, the farmers- genearl having purchased the manufactory, resolved to trans- fer it to Sevres. To this effect they erected a spacious edifice upon the left side of the road. It was finished and the manu- factory transferred there in 1755. Louis XV., at the solici- tation of Madame de Pompadour, bought it of the farmers- general in 1759, and since that period it has formed part of the domains of the crown. The manufactory of Sevres is a hand- some building, and contains a museum consisting of a com- plete collection of foreign china, and the materials used in its fabrication; a collection of the china, earthenware, and pot- tery of France, and the earths of which they are composed ; and a collection of models of all the ornamental vases, services, figures, statues, etc., that have been made in the manufactory since its first establishment. These models and specimens, which comprehend every kind of earthenware, from the coarsest potlery to the finest porcelain, are arranged in cases in the following order : 1, Etruscan vases, antique pottery, Grecian, Roman, and Gallic. 2. Foreign earthenware, delf- ware, and stone-ware. Here may be seen some delf-ware of the 15th century, the first that was varnished. 3. French earthenware, delf-ware, and stone-ware. 4. An interesting representation of the fabrication of porcelain, from the forma- tion of the clay to the finishing. This closet also contains a specimen of every defect to which porcelain is liable. 5. Por- celain of China, Japan, and India. 6. Porcelain of the dif- ferent manufactories of France, with a progressive table of the qualities and prices to the present day. 7. Porcelain of Piedmont, Tuscany, Prussia, Brunswick, Venice, Lombardy, and other Italian towns. 8. Porcelain of England, the Ne- therlands, Spain, Portugal, Saxony, Austria, and Bavaria. 9. This case contains specimens relating to the colouring of por- celain, glass, and earthenware, and of the defects to which it is liable. In the library attached to the establishment there are about two hundred volumes, with figures, consisting of travels, descriptions, etc., for the use of painters. The room is ornamented with a considerable nurnberof statues and busts, after the antique. The porcelain originally manufactured at Sevres, called porcelains tendre, was a composition of glass and earths, susceptible of combining by fusion. That now manufactured, called porcelains dure, is formed of kaolin, from the quarries near Limoges, alkali, sand, saltpetre, and 478 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. nitre, to which, when in a state of fusion, clay is added. It requires a great fire to be hardened. What is called biscuit de Sevres is this substance not enamelled. In firing of porce- lain, wood alone is employed. The workmanship of the royal manufactory of Sevres is much more highly finished than that of any manufactory in France, notwithstanding the same sub- stance is used. The white porcelain is higher in price than that of any other manufactory, on account of the exquisite and difficult shapes of the articles. The painters of the ma- nufactory of Sevres are of the first merit, and the principal artists of the French school take pleasure in giving counsel to the painters of Sevres. A depot of the products of this ma- nufactory, with a school for painting on glass attached to it, is established at No. 18, rue de Rivoli, Paris, and is well worthy of being visited. The number of workmen exceeds 150. The show-rooms of this manufactory, which contain a splendid assortment of rich and costly articles, are open daily to strangers, who may purchase any articles they please. During the fete of St. Cloud an exhibition of the productions of the manufactory takes place in the show-rooms, which are thrown open to the public for three days. Applications for visiting the workshops must be made to M. le Directeur de la Fabriqite Royalede Porcelaine de Sevres, 18, rue de Puvoli. ST. CLOUD. — This small town, situated on the Seine, about 2 leagues west of Paris, was so called from St. Clodoald, grandson of Clovis, who, having escaped when his brothers were murdered by their uncle Clotaire, concealed himself in a wood in this part of the country, and led the life of a her- mit. Being canonized after his death, the former name of the place, Novigcntum, was altered to its present appellation. It was burnt by the English in 1358, and again by the parly of the Armagnacs, in 1411. It was at St. Cloud that Henry III. was assassinated by Jacques Clement, in 1589 ; but the palace will ever be remarkable in the annals of France, for the revolution of the 18th Brumaire (10th November, 1799), which was effected without the effusion of blood, and which placed Bonaparte at the head of the government of France. The town lies on the steep side of a hill, and contains little worthy of notice except the palace and its park. There are, however, several fine villas erected on its outskirts, and it is one of the healthiest places in the neighbourhood of Paris. The Palace was originally built in 1572, by Jerome de ST, CLOUD. 479 Gondy, a rich financier. After his death, it was possessed consecutively by four bishops of Paris, of the same family, and was even then renowned for the extent and beauty of its gardens. Louis XIV. purchased the Chateau de Gondy in 1658, and presented it to his brother, the Duke of Orleans, who spared no expense to improve and adorn it. The repairs and additions were executed under the direction of Lepaute, the duke's architect, and Girard and Mansard, the king's ar- chitects. Le Notre was charged with the plantation of the park, and is thought to have succeeded better at St. Cloud than in any other grounds which he laid out. This magnifi- cent seat of the Dukes of Orleans remained in their family till 1782, when it was purchased by Louis XVI. for Marie Antoinette, his queen, who took great delight in St. Cloud, added several buildings, and often visited it, accompanied by the king. In 1793, this as well as the other royal palaces be- came national property. Napoleon always entertained a marked predilection for the chateau of St. Cloud, which had been the theatre of his first elevation; and there he lived and transacted the affairs of his empire more frequently than at Paris. Since that time many improvements, but no material alterations, have been made in the palace. It consists of one court with three piles of buildings, and other wings irregularly connected with them. The principal front is about 140 feet in length by 70 in height, and is adorned with several good pieces of sculpture. The columns that support the cornice of the central compartment are of the Corinthian order, and the general effect of the whole is elegant, without being either rich or stately. Attached to the palace are some large bar- racks, stables, etc. Interior. — The first suite of rooms consists of the grands apparternens, to which the visitor arrives by the grand vesti- bule. In this vestibule, to the right, is a magnificent marble staircase, and to the left a stone staircase leading to the cor- ridors of the apartments. The Salon de Mars is adorned with eight Ionic pilasters and four columns of marble, each of a single piece ; in it are some excellent paintings by Mignard, representing the Forges of Vulcan, Mars and Venus surrounded by Cupids and the Graces. The ceiling represents the assembly of the gods when summoned by Vulcan to wit- ness the infidelity of Venus. Over the fire-place is a valua- ble picture, of the Puke of Orleans, brother of Louis XIV. 480 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. The Galerie d'Apollon is a most splendid room, with a vaulted ceiling painted in Mignard's best style, with subjects taken from the mythology of Apollo, and with devices representing the Seasons, etc. The profusion of gilding which is dis- played here, and the rich tone of colour that prevails through- out the apartment, give a striking idea of the magnificence of the epoch when it was first erected. The walls are covered with a great number of very excellent cabinet pictures, comprising numerous beautiful Canalettis, and paintings by Mignard, Van Oels, Yan Spaendonck, etc., with several modern French artists. Here too is a very extensive collection of valuable cabinets in tortoiseshell and buhl-work, together with two immense vases of Sevres porcelain, and se- veral exquisite models and smaller pieces of statuary. The Salon de Diane joins the above gallery, and is richly painted in its ceiling by Mignard. It contains two fine pictures, by Robert, of the Ruins at Nismes and Orange. — The Chapel is entered by a door leading from this salon into the royal gal- lery, and is a plain building with columns of the Tuscan or- der. The Salon de Louis XVI. is now used as a billiard- room ; in the centre of the ceiling is a representation of Truth, by Prudhomme. The Salon de Jeu has the ceiling painted with eight Cupids, forming a circle. The ornaments are a beautiful and valuable mosaic table presented by Leo XII., about 30 inches in diameter and of wonderful merit in the execution. From the ceiling is suspended a most ele- gant lustre of the time of Louis XIV. in German cut-glass and bronze gilt. The Salon de Reception is a handsomely-deco- rated room of good proportions. The Salle des Gardes leads to the king's apartments, which are shown in the following order: the Antechamber; the Salon d'Attente, in which is a good picture by Granet and some beautiful pier-tables in Sevres porcelain ; the Salon de Reception ; two other saloons, in the latter of which is a valuable vase in gold and silver, of the time of Francis I., most exquisitely sculptured ; and the Cabinet de Travail. This last room is decorated with great elegance, and from its windows a beautiful view over the ca- pital and the surrounding country is to be enjoyed. From hence an ingeniously- contrived bath-room, fitted up in white muslin, leads to the Bedroom of the King and Queen ; and the Salon, in which is a lustre of rock crystal of immense value. Next to this the victor enters the fialon de Reception ST. CLOUD. 481 de la Reine, which is a beautiful room looking southward to the tower in the park, and containing a great number of va- luable and interesting objects. The Salon d'Attente leads to a small room in which are six remarkable pictures represent- ing cabinets of minerals, birds, shells, etc., executed by the Chevalier de Bardt, and purchased by Louis XVIII. The suite of rooms is closed by the antechamber; and those on the ground floor are not usually shown to the public, being the private apartments of the palace. All the curtains and furniture of the rooms above described are of the richest de- scription, in silk or Beauvais tapestry. The Parc reserve begins at the chateau, and extends to the left, almost always on the ascent, to the summit of the hill. On the right only, and below the chateau, is a sort of valley. This park contains gardens and flower-beds ornamented with groves, and pieces of water, and is decorated with statues, sculptured by the most celebrated artists of the time of Louis XIV. It was in the Salle de V Orangcrie that the events of the 18th Brumaire took place ; and Charles X. was residing in the palace when the Revolution of 1830 broke out. The Grand Parc extends from the Seine and the road from Sevres to St. Cloud, to beyond the summit of the hill, and is about four leagues in circumference. The en- trance is formed by two iron gates, one of which leads to the Place, and the other to the grand avenue, which is planted with chestnut trees, and terminates in an esplanade, called VEtoile. To the right of this avenue is a long range of shops, constructed in 1807; and two plantations of chestnuts and limes, in the midst of which is the grand cascade. The park, which stretches on the left as far as Sevres, is intersected by fine avenues, planted with elms, some of which are of a prodigious height. The entrance to the park from Sevres is by two pavilions united by iron gates, at the foot of the bridge. The cascade of St. Cloud is divided into two parts; the first called la Haute Cascade, the other la Basse Cascade: at the summit of the first is a group representing the Seine and the Marne, each reposing upon an urn from which water issues. Upon steps from distance to distance are placed urns and tables from which water falls into basins situated one above another, the last of which supplies by means of an aque- duct the lower cascade, which is separated from the upper one by the Allee du Tillet. The J? statues, local particulars, etc., shall refer the reader to the works quoted in a preceding note, and to the catalogues of the museum* 496 ENVIRONS Oe PARIS. Republic the campaigns of Napoleon ; —the principal events of the Empire ; — the reign of Louis XVIII. ; — the reign of Charles X. the Revolution of 1830, and the reign of Louis Philippe. The portraits comprise the Kings of France, from Pharamond to the present day ; — Grand Admirals of France ; — Constables ; — Marshals; — celebrated warriors of France, not included in the foregoing ; and a large collection of per- sons of note of all ages and countries. The busts and statues comprise also a great number of illustrious personages, from the earliest times of the monarchy, and a supplementary series is to be found, elucidating the history of France, in the medals and coins. The views of royal residences have a peculiar vaiue, as affording contemporaneous representations of edi- fices, many of which no longer exist, and as illustrating the dresses, etc. of the times when they were executed. To ar- range these collections chronologically was found to be im- possible, from the nature of the locality, the sizes of the pic- tures, etc. ; the classes, therefore, enumerated above have been kept together, as far as was compatible, and each of them may be examined separately, or in conjunction with the rest. Continual additions to this gigantic museum are making every day, and are likely to be made for some time to come ; it can hardly, therefore, be said to be complete, nor can any description of it be yet formed so as to be permanently correct. Centre, Ground floor. — The apartments on the southern side of the palace towards the>garden were occupied by the Grand Dauphin, son of Louis XIV., until his death, in 4711 ; after- wards,by the Duke de Berri, grandson of that monarch ; Louis the Dauphin, son of Louis XV., and father of Louis XVI., Louis XV! II., and Charles X. ; Louis XVI., with Marie Antoinette ; and Louis XVIII. They now contain the portraits of the Grand Admirals, Constables, and some of the Marshals of France. The middle part of the western front was a vesti- bule in the time of Louis- XIV., by which passage was afforded to the gardens, and was afterwards converted into rooms by Louis XV. ; it now forms the beautiful gallery of Louis XIII., and is one of the happiest alterations effected by his present Majesty. The apartments on the northern side were those of the amiable Count and Countess de Toulouse under Louis XIV. , and, afterwards, of the Princesses, daughters of Louis XV. ; they are now filled by the remainder of the long suite of portraits marshals, The tWQ last rooms, towards the VERSAILLES. 496 corner, by the vestibule of the chapel, filled with the por- traits of celebrated French warriors, were successively te- nanted by Madame de Montespan, under Louis XIV., and Madame de Pompadour, under his successor. All the rooms on this floor retain little or nothing of their former aspect ; they had been injured by petty alterations made under Louis XV., and it is only by King Louis Philippe that they have been judiciously re-arranged nearly as they originally, were. Behind the Galsrie de Louis XIII. were the bathing-rooms of Marie Antoinette, now changed into the Gallery of the Kings of France. The other rooms on this floor, surrounding the Cour de Marbre, contain, on the south, the royal residences of France; on the north, part of the collection of marine pieces. Four small courts, two on either side, are comprised within the buildings of this central pile; adjoining one to the north, was a magnificent vestibule and staircase of marble leadiag to the grand apartments, in the time of Louis XIV. This Was destroyed by his successor, and only the corresponding stair- case, on the southern side, known ever since as the Escalier de Marbre, with its vestibule, was suffered to remain ; an- other staircase, of elegant construction, has been formed near the vestibule of the chapel by King Louis Philippe. The Esca- lier de Marbre is one of the finest in France for the richness and variety of its marbles, and produces a stately effect. First floor. — At the head of this staircase a marble ves- tibule, on the left hand, leads to the private apartments of the King. These form the circuit of the Cour de Marbre, and have been restored to all their primitive splendour, while, at the same time, there has been placed in them a collection of pictures relating to the reign of Louis XIV. The Salles des Gardes leads to the Salle da Grand Couvert, where, when the monarch dined in public, only his children and grandchil- dren were admitted by Louis XIV. to the honour of sitting with him at table. South of this room, and surrounding a small court, are the private apartments of Marie Antoinette, where that amiable, but unfortunate, Princess used to enjoy the society of her intimate friends, the Princess de Lamballe, the Countess de Polignac, the Duke de Guignes, etc. They have been tastefully restored and furnished in the style of the times, but are not shown except on a particular order. We now come to the OEil de Bwuf, a beautifully decorated room, the grand antichambcr of the King, so called from the oval 2 496 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. window at one extremity, and celebrated in the annals of Versailles for the intrigues of courtiers, who used to wait here for the lever of the monarch Louis XVI. and Marie Antoi- nette dined here in public every Sunday. A small door in the south-west corner communicates with the Queen's private apartmenls and bed-room. The Chambre a Coucher de Louis XIV. occupies the centre of the front towards the Cour de Marbre, and is the sanctum sanctorum of the palace. The decorations of this splendid room are exceedingly magnificent, and, with all that is in it, have been carefully restored to the stale in which they were at the decease of the Grand Monarch. The ceiling is adorned with the Titans of Paul Veronese, brought hither from the hall of the Council oi Ten, at Venice, by Napoleon, and portraits of the nearest descendants of Louis XIV. are hung on the walls. The bed, placed within a splen- didly gilded balustrade, is that on which this monarch died, and the coverlid and hangings are partly the work of Ihe young ladies of St Cyr. Since the death of Louis XIV. no monarch has ever slept in this room ; but it was from the balcony that Louis XVI , surrounded by his Queen and his children, harangued the furious populace which came to drag him from his palace, on the 6th October, 1789. From this room the visitor enters the Cabinet du Roi, or Royal Council Chamber, decorated in the same beautiful style as the two preceding apartmenls, and containing some of the original furniture that was in it during the reign of Louis XIV. At one end is a celebrated mechanical clock, which displays a curious figure of the Grand Monarch, and plays a chime whenever the hour strikes. In this room Louis XIV. used to work with his ministersColbert, Louvois, and Torcy ; here he took leave of Marshal Villars, when the fate of the monarchy depended on the campaign that ended with the victory of Denain ; here he received Lord Bolingbroke ; here he intro- duced to the grandees of Spain his grandson, the Duke d'An- jou, as their king, and declared that " thenceforth there were no more Pyrenees." Louis XV. signed here the decree for expelling the Jesuits, in 1762, and the treaty that terminated the seven years' war, in 1763 ; here, too, that easy king suf- fered an unworthy female favourite to sit on the arm of his chair in the presence of the Council, and to fling a packet of unopened dispatches into the fire before his face. It was on the 23d June, 1789, in the recess of the window nearest Ihe 3 VlSKSAILLES. 496 Royal Bedchamber, that Louis XVI. received from the Mar- quis de Dreux-Breze the famous reply of Mirabeau, that " the deputies of the States were assembled by the will of the peo- ple, and would not leave their place of meeting- except by the force of his master's bayonets." The history of the three reigns and the annals of the palace are epitomized in the three rooms just described, and the destinies of France and Europe were often decided within their precincts. Leading from these apartments, and on the northern side of the Cour de Marbre, is a suite of rooms, called Les Ca- binets, into which no one was admitted but those who had the grande entree. They are not open to the public, but may be visited on a special order. The first was the billiard-room of Louis XIV., and was afterwards the bed-chamber of his succes- sors. It was here that the death of Louis XV., so graphically described in Madame Campan's Memoirs, took place. Beyond it is the Salle des Pendules, so called from a magnificent clock, which shows the days of the month, the phases of the moon, and various astronomical phenomena. The meridian line traced on the floor was the handywork of Louis XVI. Next to this comes the Cabinet des Chasses, from whence a window leads to a balcony looking into the Cour des Cerfs, where the Royal Family used to place themselves after grand hunting parties to seethe game counted in the court below. A grating on the left of this window used to admit Madame du Barri secretly to the chamber of Louis XV. ; for her own apartment was over this room, and was approached by a small staircase, the access to which is by a richly gilded door. It was at the bottom of this staircase, leading into the Cour de Marbre t that Louis XV. was attempted to be assassinated by Damiens in 1757. On the same floor with the apartment of Madame du Barri are several little chambers, where Louis XV. and his successor loved to shut themselves out from all the world; adjoining them was a workshop in which Louis XVI. had his turning-lathe established, and another where his forge still exists. Above these was a belvedere t commanding the palace and the neighbourhood, where the same king used to sit with a telescope, and amused himself by watching all that was going on in the town or the palace gardens. The Cabinet des Chasses contains the poriraits of the principal architects, paint- ers, etc., who have contributed to the building and ornament- ing of the palace, A room adjoining this, on the Cour des 4 496 ENVIRONS OF PARIS* Cerfs, was the private apartment of Madame de Mainlenon, in which Louis XIV. passed most of his evenings in the latter part of his life ; it is now the sitting-room of King Louis Philippe during his visits to Versailles. The Cabinet de Louis XVI. , where the king traced out the route of the unfortunate Lapeyrouse, was the private dining-room of Louis XIV., in which he generally appeared at table with Madame de Mainte- non and all his family. The great monarch never touched tea, chocolate, coffee, or any liqueur ; he disliked game, but was fond of pastry ; he had only two meals a-day, and drarjk no other wine than Champagne, always iced. In this room Louis XIV. himself waited on Moliere, to teach his courtiers how to respect genius. Immediately adjoining this room is his Confessional, where the chair still exists, seated in which Pere la Chaise and Pere Letellier obtained that influence over his mind which ended in the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The private apartments terminate here at the end of the Cour de Marbre ; they contain numerous portraits and pictures re- lating to the persons and the times hy which they have been rendered remarkable. Beyond them, on the Cour Royale, occurs another suite, including the $alles de la Vaisselle d'Or, des Porcelaines, de la Bibliotheque, where the historians of France are now collected, and where, in a cupboard near the northern door, the famous Livre Rouge was discovered ; the Cassette de Louis XV., the atelier of Mignard, the Salle a Manger de Louis XV., and the Salle des Mc dailies. All these rooms are adorned with pictures relating to the limes of Louis XIV. and XV. ; and the last contains a curious collection of military pieces in distemper. The Grands Appartements occupy the whole of the first floor of the central building facing on three sides to the gar- den; those on the north were the King's, those on the south w ere appropriated to the Queen. The former present a strik- ing contrast to the other suites of the palace ; they are large and lofty, encrusted with rich and dark marbles, and loaded with a profusion of massive gilded ornaments. Their ceilings are covered with warmly coloured paintings, and their gene- ral effect is that of solemn and pompous magnificence. The Queen's apartments are in white and gold, painted on the ceilings, hut less richly than the King's, and from their south- ern aspect are light and cheerful ; everything in them has an air ©f court-like elegance. Throughout all these rooms, 5 VERSAILLES. 496 which have been entirely restored with great care and taste, King Louis Philippe has placed a most interesting series of portraits and pictures, completely illustrating the life and domestic relations of Louis XIV. ; the long series of apart- ments has all the magnificence which it originally possessed, but after all conveys an imperfect idea of the splendour of the court of the Grand Monarch. The Salon d'Hercule, which precedes the suite, once descended to the ground floor, and was the chapel where Bossuet and Massillon preached. The splendid ceiling, 64 feet by 54, representing the apotheosis of Hercules, was executed by Lemoine in 1729. The Salons de VAbondance, de Venus, and de Diane derive their names from the allegorical subjects painted on the ceilings of the two first by Houasse, of the latter by Blanchard, The Salon de Mars w as used as a ball-room by Louis XIV. ; its ceiling is by seve- ral artists of the time. Beyond this is the Salon de Mercure, once the state bed-room, and remarkable for its ceiling by Philippe de Champagne. Next to it is the Salon d'Apollon, or Throne Room, where Louis XIV. received ambassadors, ac- cepted the apology of the Doge of Genoa, and in 1715 held his last public audience. It was used for similar purposes by Louis XV. and Louis XVI. ; the ceiling is by Lafosse, The Salon de la Guerre, consecrated to the military glory of Louis XIV., has a ceiling by Lebrun, representing France scourging Germany, Spain, and Holland. It leads into the Grande Ga- lerie des Glaces, one of the finest rooms in the w r orld, extend- ing with the Salon de la Guerre and the Salon de la Paix, at the opposite extremity, along the whole of the central facade, and measuring 242 feet in length, 35 feet in width, and 43 feet in height. It is lighted by 17 large arched windows, which correspond to the same number of arcades opposite, filled w ith looking-glass ; sixty composite pilasters of red marble, with bases and capitals of gilt bronze, fill up the in- tervals between the windows and arcades ; while each of the entrances is adorned with columns of the same order. The vaulted ceiling was painted along its whole length by Lebrun ; and is divided into nine large and eighteen smaller compart- ments, in which* are represented under allegorical figures the principal events in the history of Louis XIV., from the peace of the Pyrenees in 1659, to that of Nimeguen in 1678, exclu- sive of other subjects in the intermediate spaces. " It was in this gallery/' says M. Vatout, M that Louis 5IV. displayed ail 6 495 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. the grandeur of royalty ; and such was the luxury of the times, such the splendour of the court, that this immense room could hardly contain the crowd of courtiers that pressed round the monarch." Several splendid fetes were held in it; of which those on the marriage of the Duke de Bourgogne in 1697, and on the arrival of Marie Antoinette, were the most brilliant. Several of the glass arcades in the middle of the gallery lead into the OEil de Boeuf and the Cabinet du Roi ; the grand entrance to the south opens into the Salon de la Paix, one of the most beautiful rooms in the palace. The ceiling, by Lebrun, indicates France spreading universal peace and abundance ; and the apartment itself was formerly filled with all that was rare and worthy of a place in the Queen's card-room. The anecdotes connected with this room are too numerous to be here detailed. From this opens the Chambre d Coucher de la Reine, inhabited successively by Maria Theresa, wife of Louis XIV., Maria Leckziuska, wife of Louis XV., and Marie Antoinette. Here the Duchess de Bourgogne gave birth to Louis XV., and Marie Antoinette to the Duchess d'Angouleme. Here too this un- fortunate Queen was roused from her bed on the fatal night of the 5th and 6th October, 1789, and forced to escape from the mob, which had burst into the palace, by a small corridor that leads from this room to the OEil de Bceuf. The orna- ments of this room are exceedingly chaste, and the ceiling is by Boucher. The Salon de la Reine served for the Queen's evening parties, which were at their highest pitch under Maria Theresa, Queen of Louis XIV., and in which Henrietta of England, widow of Charles I., was oneof the most interesting personages. The ceiling is by Michael Corneille. In the Salon du grand couvert de la Reine, Louis XIV., while his consort was alive, often dined. Queen Maria Leckzinska dined here always in public; and Marie Antoinette as long as she was Dauphiness. The ceiling is remarkable as containing a fine Paul Veronese, St. Mark and the Theological Virtues, brought hither by Napoleon from Venice. The next room is the Salle des Gardes de la Reine, with an admirable ceiling by Coypel, celebrated in a melancholy manner by the slaugh- ter of the Queen s guards, on the occasion above alluded to, when speaking of her bed chamber. The Queen s state apartments end here at the top of the E scalier de Marbre; but immediately leading from them is the Grande Salic des Gardes > 7 VERSAILLES. 496 where the body guards were usually assembled. It is now- called the Salle du Sacre, from David's famous picture of the Coronation of Napoleon that hangs against one of its walls. (1) Several small rooms that fill up the remaining portion of this wing formed the Chapel of the Ch&leau of Louis XIII. ; they were inhabited by Louis de Bourbon, Count de Clermont, un- der Louis XV., and now contain pictures illustrating the cam paigns of 1793 and the two following years. Beyond these, to the East, stretches the wing completed by Louis XV1I1 : the old apartments contained in it were those of Cardinal de Fleury, Minister to Louis XV., and are now filled with the collection of military drawings. A spacious room correspond- ing to the Salon d Hercule, and formerly the Salle des Cent Suisses, completes the long suite of the central pile. It is now one of the most interesting apartments in the whole pa- lace, containing portraits of all the great military characters of the Revolution, and many of them in double, as they were in 1792, and as they were afterwards, when their honours sat thick upon them. Thus there will be observed in it the por- traits of Napoleon as lieutenant- colonel, in 1792, and as Em- peror, in 1804;— of Marshal I annes as sub-lieutenant, in 1792, and as Duke de Monlebello, in 1804 ;— of Marshal Soult as a sergeant, in 1792, and as Duke de Dalmatie, in 1804; — of Mural as sub lieutenant, in 1792, and as King of Naples, in 1808;— of Marshal Bernadotle as lieutenant in 1792, and as Prince of Pontecorvo, in 1804 — now King of Sweden;— of Louis Philippe, lieutenant-general in 1792, and as King of the French, in 1830. Besides these there are some valuable portraits of Lafayette, Dumouriez, Kellermann, and most of the marshals of Napoleon. It is called the Salle de 1792, and might well be termed the Salle des Heros. The attic of the centre, like the corresponding story in each of the two wings, was tenanted in the palmy days of Ver- sailles by the nobles attached to the court, in virtue of their offices. The apartments contained in it present of themselves nothing remarkable, and are now appropriated to the general service of the palace. Southern Wing. This part of the Palace was called the (i) The artist received ioo,ooofrs. for this fine painting, and 75,ooofrs. for the Distribution of the Eagles to the Legions, which is placed opposite to it. 8 496 ENVIRONS 01? PARIS. Aile des Princes, from its being appropriated to the children and near connections of the monarch. The internal arrange- ments of the rooms having been entirely changed by King Louis Philippe, it is no longer possible to point out the spots of local interest, as in the central building, and it will there- fore be sufficient to give a brief enumeration of the Princes who have lived in this wing. The southern end of the Grst floor was appropriated to the grandchildren of Louis XIV., with Fenelon as their preceptor ; while the Duke of Orleans, brother of louis XIV., and the Duke do Charlres, afterwards Regent, occupied the remainder. At a later period it was held by the Count d'Artois, afterwards Charles X., the Duke de Penthievre, and other Princes of the blood royal. At the northern extremity of the wing were the apartments of the Duke of Orleans, Philippe Egalite, and under it, where the arcade now leads into the garden, used to be a small theatre, in which Lulli and Quinault often charmed the ears of the court. On the ground-floor, the daughters of Louis XIV., the Count and Mile, de Charolais, the Princess de Lambaile, the Dau- phin, son of Louis XVI. , his sister, the Duchess d'Angouleine, and the Count de Provence, afterwards Louis XYIiL, were successively lodged. The attic, as has been already observed, contained several nobles of the court. It will be readily agreed that could these walls speak they would tell many an historic tale, hardly inferior in interest to those connected with the rest of the edifice. On the ground -floor, a long suite of rooms, fronting the gardens, contain the military history of Napoleon from 1796 to 1809, depicted on more than SCO can- vasses. A vestibule in the middle is adorned with some va- luable statues and busts of the Emperor and his family, while a large saloon at the southern end is dedicated to the glorious recollections of Marengo, etc. On the same floor, behind these rooms, runs a gallery f>27 feet long, filled with the statues and busts of celebrated generals from 1790 to 1815. On the first floor immediately above this gallery is another of the same dimensions, occupied by the busts and statues of remarkable personages from 1500 to 1792, and called the Galeriede Louis XIV. Over the Salle de Marengo is the Salle de 1830, dedi- cated to the pictures that record the principal events of that memorable revolution. All the rest of the floor is formed into the Grande Galerie des Batailles, or, Galerie de Louis Philippe, which has absorbed the greater part of the attic, and 9 VERSAILLES, 496 constitutes an immense gallery 393 feel in length, 42 in breadth, and the same in heignth. A vestibule at each end and one in the middle, with coupled columns, break what would otherwise be the monotony of so great an extent; and the roof, vaulted like Ihe Galerie des Glaces', is lighted by double sky-lights, and richly ornamented with gilded com- partments. At each end are frescos by Abel de Pujol, and on the wails are 33 pictures of large dimensions, representing the great victories of the French nation. The effect of this gal- lery is exceedingly striking, but it is more from the greatness of its size and toe splendid paintings that adorn it than from any historical associations connected with it. The works of Gerard and Horace Vcrnet, amidst the other grand productions by which they are surrounded, cannot fail to attract particular attention. The parts of the attic remaining comprise two gal- leries of the general collection of portraits. Northern Wing. — Although the interior of this wing has not been so much changed as that of the corresponding mem- ber of the palace, it will be sufficient to enumerate the per- sonages who have dwelt in it, to show that it possesses consi- derable local interest. It stands in part on the site of the Fountain of Tethys, immortalized by Lafontaine, and was first inhabited by the Duke de Berri, grandson of Louis XIV., the Prince de Gonti, elecled King of Poland in 1697, the Duke de Maine, son of Louis XIV., the beautiful Marquise de Thianges, sister of Madame de Montespan, Marshal Villars, and the Duke de St. Simon, author of the memoirs. In after limes the ground-floor was partly occupied by the Prince de Conde, who commanded the army of emigrants during the Revolution ; and the first floor by the Dukes of Angoulerac and Berri, sons of Charles X. It was in the room of this Storey, immediately adjoining the vestibule of the chapel, that the Cardinal de Rohan was arrested for the affair of the fa- mous necklace that had so fatal an influence on the destinies of Marie Antoinette and her court. The suite of apartments on the ground floor, fronting the gardens, contain a series of pictures illustrating the principal events of the history of France up to the Revolution. Behind them a stone gallery, 300 feet in length, holds the busts, statues, and monumental effigies of the kings, queens, and illustrious personages of France until the time of Louis XV. ; one of the chief orna- ments of this collection being the admirable statue of Joan of 10 496 ENVIRONS 05? PARIS. Arc, executed by the Princess Marie of France, Duchess Alex- ander of Wurlcmburg. Over this, on the first floor, another similar gallery contains the statues, etc. of personages illus- trious in the earlier times of the monarchy ; w hile in the apart- ments towards the gardens the suite of historical illustrations continued up to 1830. The greater part of the general col- lection of portraits, medals, etc., is arranged in the Attic of this wing. Between the Salle de 1'Opera and the Chapel extends the elegant building lately erected by King Louis Philippe, on the ground floor of which is another part of the collection of ma- rine pieces, with the pictures that illustrate the crusades ; while on the first floor are placed those relating to the reign of his present Majesty, the second founder of Versailles. The Chapel. — The interior of this edifiee, restored by King Louis Philippe to its original splendour, affords one of the most magnificent spectacles that is to be witnessed at Ver- sailles. All the grandeur and elegance of the age of Louis XIV. are concentrated, as it were, in this single spot; and when filled with a brilliant court, the monarch at its head, the coup-d'oeil must have been an epitome of all that was lofty and noble, even in those days of regal greatness Louis XIV., who was always punctual in his religious devotions, required daily attendance at mass from all his courtiers, and founded a kind of chapter of 21 missionary priests for the ser- vice of this Chapel. Many remarkable religious ceremonies w ere performed within it, and particularly the numerous royal alliances sanctioned before its altar ; not the least interesting of which was that of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, in 1769. The internal dimensions are 114 feet to the altar, 60 feet in breadth, and 86 feet in height. The pavement is of costly marbles of different colours, divided into compartments, and wrought in mosaic work : while the balustrades of the galleries are of beautiful marble and gilded bronze. The vaulted ceil- ing springing from a rich architrave and cornice, above lofty Corinthian columns, is covered with brilliant paintings, by Antoine Coypel, Lafosse, and Jouvenet; the figures over the organ and galleries are by the Boullognes and Coypel. The Chapel of the Virgin should not escape notice ; the paintings in it being all chefs-d'esuvre of the younger Boullogne ; and before the visitor quits the gallery he should notice in the roval pew r two admirable bas-reliefs, the Circumcision, by a ' VERSAILLES. 496 Poiriet, and Christ with the Doctors, by Couslou. In the aisles beneath the galleries are seven chapels, or altars, ornamented with costly marbles, gilding, pictures, and bronze bas-reliefs, the laller of which are peculiarly worthy of a careful in- spection. In the chapel of St. Charles Borromeo is a bas-re- lief of St. Charles imploring God to stay the plague of Milan, by Bouchardon. In that of St. Louis is a picture of St. Louis dressing the wounded, by Jouvcnet; and a bas-relief repre- senting that monarch serving the poor at table, by Poiriet. In that of Ste. Victoire is a most beautiful bas-relief of the saint suffering herself to be massacred. The high altar is exceedingly grand, with marble statues of Louis XIII. and Louis XIV., one on either side, offering their crown to the Vir- gin; the organ is considered as one of the finest in France. During the whole of the Revolution this Chapel remained almost uninjured. The Salle de l'Opera. — At the opposite extremity of the northern wing the Theatre is approached by a new staircase, constructed by his present Majesty. Its length is 144 feet, divided into two equal parts by the curtain; its breadlh 60 feet, and its height 50 feet; 14 Ionic columns, fluted and gilt, divide the boxes into 12 balconies, the balustrades of which, as well as all the ornaments, are richly gilt. The other deco- rations of this theatre are in crimson and gold, with a pro- fusion of looking-glasses and chandeliers. The ceiling is by Durameau. Of the grand fetes given within it, the first was for the marriage of Louis XVI. ; the next for the birth of his son; the third for the ill-judged banquet of the Gardes du Corps, in 1789 ; and the last on the grand inauguration of the Historical Museum, 17th May, 1837. On the first of these occasions it was lighted up with 10,000 wax candles ; and the expense, whenever a grand opera was performed in it, is said to have been upwards of 100,000frs. The Gardens and Park. — The former no longer contain the trees that were originally planted by Louis XIV. ; they were destroyed in 1775, by order of Louis XVI., and those which now exist in them date from that time. The stranger is asto- nished not less by the variety and striking effect of the planta- tions and waters than by the immense number and beauty of the statues, groupes, and vases with which they are d jconJed. In describing them we shall proceed in such regular order, that none of the objects worthy of notice may escape the visi- 12 496 ENVIRONS OF PARI*. tor's attention. — The Terrassedu Chatemh&s four fine bronze statues, after the antique, by Keller, namely Silenus, Anti- nous, Apollo, and Bacchus. At the angles are two beautiful vases in while marble, ornamented with bas-reliefs. — The Parterre d'Eau contains two oblong basins, upon the borders of which repose 24 magnificent groups, in bronze, viz. eight nymphs, eight groups of children, and the four principal rivers of France with their tributary streams* These are the Garonne and the Dordogne, the Seine and Marne, the Rhone and the Saone, and the Loire and the Loiret. The groups of children were cast by Aubry and Roger, and the other figures by Keller. From the centre of each basin rise jets d'eau, which form a fountain in the shape of a basket. At the two angles of the terrace, opposite the front of the palace, are two fountains, adorned with groups of animals in bronze, cast by Keller. — The Parterre du Midi extends in front of the southern wing of the palace, and contains two circular basins of white marble, surrounded by grass-plats. This terrace is sepa- rated from the Parterre d'Eau by a wall level with the latter, upon which are placed twelve beautiful vases in bronze, cast by Duval. In the centre is a flight of white marble steps, or- namented on each side by a sphinx in white marble, sur- mounted by a child in bronze, — The Orangerie, situated below the Parterre du Midi, is bounded on each side by an immense flight of 103 steps leading to an iron gate on the route de Brest. The piers of these gates are crowned by groups in stone, and the green houses, constructed after the designs o( Mansard, extend on three sides, forming a splendid structure ornamented with Tuscan architecture. Here the orange trees, pomegranate-trees, etc., are preserved during the winter, whilst in the summer they flourish in the open air in the walks of the Orangery, and other parts of the garden. Jn the midst of the principal green-house, opposite the entrance, is a fine colossal statue of Louis XIV., by Besjardins. One of the orange-trees possesses an historical character. It was con- temporary with Francois I., and formed a part of the confis- cated property of the Conne table de Bourbon, from whence it is called le Grand Bourbon. It was produced from seed in 1421, and, after living under 12 reigns, does not seem to be near the end of its long career. The ground in front of the Orangery is divided into flower-beds, with a basin and fountain in the centre,—- The Partem du Nord is in front of the northern 13 VERSAILLES. 497 wing of the palaoe, and is separated from the Parterre d'Eau by a wall crowned with 14 bronze vases, cast by Duval. It is in the form of a horse-shoe, and is approached by a flight of steps in white marble. At the angles of the horse-shoe, near the steps, are two fine vases of Egyptian marble, and on the sides of the steps two slatues copied from the antique : the one, the knife-grinder, byFognini, and the other, Venus, by Coyse- vox. This terrace is laid out in flower-beds, and ornamented with the two basins des Couronnes and that de la Pyramids. The former derive their name from two groups of Tritons and Syrens supporting crowns of laurel, from the midst of which issue columns of water. The bassin de la Pyramide consists of four round basins that rise one above another in a pyra- midal form. The figures are in lead , those of the first two basins by Lehongre, and those of the third by Girardon. Along the hedge which bounds this parterre on the north are eight Sla- tues in white marble. Below the bassin de la Pyramide are the Baths of Diana, a small square basin, of which one side is ornamented with bas-reliefs in lead, by Girardon ; represent- ing, in the centre, the Nymphs of Diana at the bath, anr at each extremity a river. —The AlUe d'Eau, in front of the baths of Diana, leads to the two basins du Dragon and dc Nep- tune, between two long and narrow grass-plats, in each of which are seven groups of children in bronze, in the midst of white marble basins separated by yew-trees. Each group forms a kind of tripod supporting a second basin of Languc- doc marble, from the centre of which the water rises and falls from the edges into the basin below. On the sides of the ave- nue lie the groves, called Bosquets de X Arc de Triomphc and des Trois Couronnes, which formerly possessed many works of art, but now retain little of their ancient magnificence. At the extremity of the avenue is a semicircle formed by a hedge, in front of which arc eight groups similar to those in the avenue, forming a total number of 22. — The Bassin du Dragon derives its name from the dragon or serpent Python, surrounded by four dolphins and the same number of swans. The only part that now remains is the grand jet d'eau, that issues from the dragon's mouth. — The Bassin de Neptune is the most splendid of all the fountains at Versailles. Upon the upper border are placed 22 large vases in lead ornamented with bas-reliefs. Against the side are three immense groups in lead. That in the centre, hy Adam senior, represents Nep- 42. 498 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. tune and Amphilrite seated in a vast shell and accompanied by nymphs, tritons, and sea-monsters. The group on the east is Proteus, by Bouchardon; and that on the west, Ocean resting upon a sea-unicorn, by Lemoine. At the angles re- pose upon pedestals two colossal dragons surmounted by Cu- pids, by Bouchardon. These five groups, especially that in the centre, throw forth a deluge of water, which is still aug- mented by grand jets d'eau in different parts of the basin, and from the vases. From the Bassin de Neptune we return to the Parterre d'Eau by the avenues des Trois Fontaines and des Ifs, which are in the same line. The former presents no works of art ; the latter is ornamented with 14 white marble vases and 5 statues. — The Parterre de Latone lies between the Parterre d'Eau and the Allee du Tapis Vert. On the right and left are declivities which form a road in the shape of a horse-shoe, skirted by yew-trees and bounded by a hedge, along which are ranged statues and groupes in marble. Be- tween the two declivities just described, is a magnificent flight of steps leading from the Parterre d'Eau to that de La- tone, at the top of w hich are two fine vases of white marble ornamented with the sun, the emblem of Louis XIV. These steps lead to a semicircular terrace before the Bassin de La- tone, and extend, by two smaller flights, to a lower terrace in which this elegant basin is situated. These steps are or- namented with 12 beautiful vases, enriched with bas-reliefs. The Bassin de Latone presents five circular tables, which rise one above another in the form of a pyramid, surmounted by a group of Latona with her two children, Apollo and Diana, by Marsy. The goddess implores the vengeance of Jupiter against the peasants of Lybia, who refused her water, and the peasants, already metamorphosed, some half, and others entirely, into frogs or tortoises, are placed on the edge of the different tables, and throw forth water upon Latona in every direction, thus forming liquid arches of the finest effect. The tables are of red marble, the group of white marble, and the frogs and tortoises of lead. On each side of the pyramid, a column of water rises 30 feet and falls into the basin. Beyond are two flower-gardens, each of which has a small basin with a fountain adorned with two figures, partly metamorphosed, to correspond with the fountain of La- tona.— The Allee du Tapis Vert derives its name from a fine grass-plat which extends the whole length from the Parterre VERSAILLES. 499 de Latone to the Bassin d'Apollon. It is ornamented with 12 slalues and 12 beautiful vases in white marble.— The Bassin d'Apollon, which is the largest in the park except that of Neptune, is situated at the extremity of the Allee du Tapis Vert. The God of Day is seen issuing from the waters in a chariot drawn by four horses, and surrounded by tritons, dolphins, and sea-monsters. Beyond is the grand canal, 186 feet wide by 4,674 in length ; it has two arms, together about 3,000 feet in length. We now return towards the palace, taking the avenues on the right, and come to the Bassins de VHiver et de VAutomne. That of Winter represents Saturn reclining amidst children who are playing with fish, crabs, and shells ; one of them holds a pair of bellows and seems to be blowing a fire of which there are no signs. This group is by Girardon. That of Autumn, by Marsy, presents Bacchus reclining upon grapes, and surrounded by infant satyrs.— The Jardin du Roi is situated near the Bassin d'Hiver, on the right, and is laid out with much taste and judgment.— In front of the entrance to the Jardin du Roi lies the Bassin du Miroir, thus called from its resemblance to a looking-glass ; two columns of water rise from the midst. The Bosquet de la Reine is a delightful enclosed grove which can only be en- tered with a cicerone of the park, and contains a great num- ber of foreign trees and plants. In the centre is a superb granite vase and four pitchers in bronze of an antique form. — The Bosquet de la Salle de Bal, situated near the foregoing, is thus called from balls formerly given there by the court in summer. — The Quinconce du Midi, near the Salle de Bal, to the north-west, is ornamented with eight termini, of which four are round a grass-plat in the middle, and the other four beneath the chestnut trees that shade it. — The Bosquet de la Colonnade, at a short distance from the Quinconce, is an en- closed grove, containing a magnificent rotunda, composed of 32 columns of three kinds of beautiful coloured marble and the same number of pilasters. They are of the Ionic order, and are united by arches supporting a cornice and attic with vases of while marble. Under each arcade are marble basins with fountains, and in the middle is a fine groupe of the Rape of Proserpine, by Girardon. — Bassins du Printemps et de VEte. We now cross the Allee du Tapis Vert, and direct our course through the avenues on the side opposite to that which we have just left. The fountains of Spring 500 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. and Summer are situated in the first long avenue parallel to the Tapis Vert. Spring is represented by Flora, hav- ing before her a basket of flowers, and surrounded by chil- dren who hold garlands and wreaths. Summer appears tinder the figure of Ceres, having a sickle in her hand, re- clining among wheat sheaves, and encircled by children. — The Bosquet des Domes derives its name from two small ro- tundas crowned with domes which were demolished in 1820. In the centre is an octagonal basin surrounded by a balus- trade in marble. In the top of the balustrade is scooped a small channel, in which water-flows and escapes from dis- tance to distance by shells. In the centre an immense co- lumn of water rises to the height of 70 feet. Above and around extends a terrace, bounded by a second balustrade of tnarble, of which the plinth and pilasters are covered with 44 bas-reliefs of ancient and modern arms employed by the dif- ferent nations of Europe, executed by Girardon, Mazaline, and (iuerin. In this enclosure are eight statues of white marble. — Bassin cl'Encelade. A triangular space opposite the Bos- quet des Domes contains this fountain, which is circular and surrounded by trees. The centre is occupied by a mass of rocks, beneath which Enceladus the Giant is struggling for liberty, and still endeavouring to hurl rocks at Jove. The figure, from whose mouth a column of water rises to the height of 60 feet, was executed by Marsy. Water also issues from his hand and from a part of the rocks. — The Quinconce du Nord corresponds with that of the south, and is adorned with a large vase and eight termini in while marble. —Bosquet des Bains d'Apollon. Upon leaving the Quinconce by the princi- pal avenue to the cast, we see on the left an iron gate which leads to the most agreeable enclosed grove in the park, where every thing is natural. An enormous rock, of the most pic- turesque form and imposing mass, produces a complete illu- sion. In the midst a grotto leads to the palace of Thetis, whose nymphs are eagerly serving Apollo at the moment when he comes to repose in the arms of the goddess after the fatigue of the day. Two of them are preparing to wash his feet, a third is pouring water for him into a basin, and three others stand behind him, one of whom is dressing his hair and the two others holding vessels with perfumes. Apollo and the first three nymphs are chefs-d'ceuvre of Girardon ; the three others tire by Regnaudin, On the right and left of this roagni- VERSAILLES. 501 ficent group are two others, the former by Guerin, and the latter by Marsy. They both represent the horses of the Sun watered by trjtons. These three groups in white marble form the most perfect ensemble of sculpture possessed by Ver- sailles. Sheets and torrents of water, which escape from dif- ferent parts of the rock and form a lake at its foot, add to the wildness of the scene. This fountain alone is said to have cost 1,500,000 fr. — In descending this part of the garden, from east to west, we find the Rond Yert y a circular bowling- green, surrounded by a hedge in which are four verdant niches, with statues after the antique. — The Bassin des En- fans, placed at the fourth angle of the Rond Vert, is deco- rated with a group of six children, in lead, who are playing in a small island which occupies the centre. Two others are swimming with remarkable grace. From the midst of the is- land a column of water rises to the height of 48 feet. — Conti- nuing our course from east to west, we enter the Salle da I'Etoile, so called because its three avenues, crossing each other, form six radii. — Bassin de I'Obelisque. The avenue that traverses the ctoile leads to this fountain, whose name is derived from the form assumed by the water, which rises from a hundred points. It issues from reeds forming a circle round the column of water that bursts from the centre, and falls into an upper basin, from which it descends into a lower one by a number of steps forming as many cascades. — We should not omit to remark, that many of the fountains present in general a poor appearance, except when the waters play, which only takes place in summer. They are distinguished by the names of the Grandes Eaux and the Petites Eaux, The latter play on the first Sunday of the month ; but the former are to be seen only on certain privileged days, which are always announced by the journals. The Grandes Eaux are still an exceedingly fine sight ; and in the time of Louis XIV. must have been something far beyond modern ideas of magnificence: their cost is said to be from 8 to 10,000fr. every time that they play. As the Grandes Eaux do not all play at once, but one at a time in succession, the vi- sitor would do well not to follow, upon such occasions, the methodical order of the above description, but to watch the movement of the crowd, and follow it from basin to basin to that of Neptune, which is always the last. Upon these occa- 502 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. sions, the multitude of Parisians and strangers attracted to Versailles is very great. Le Grand Trianon is a royal mansion, built by Louis XIV. for Mme. de Maintenon, at one extremity of the Park of Ver- sailles, after the designs of Jules Hardouin Mansard. It is in the Italian style, consisting of only one storey, and composed of two wings, united by a long gallery, which is pierced by seven arcades, and is fronted with magnificent columns and coupled pilasters inLanguedoc marble of the Ionic order. The wings are decorated in a similar manner ; and also the inte- rior of the gallery. In the left wing are the apartments of the queen ; in the right those of the king. The former are, in general, wainscoted and painted in white ; the latter are much more richly and variously decorated. The aparlmenis are, however, remarkable only for the pictures they con- tain, the most interesting of which are some valuable por- traits of Maria Leczinksa of Poland, queen of Louis XV., of Maria Theresa, of Marie Antoinette, Louis XV., etc. The Grande Galerie is a fine room, 160 feet long, full of very re- markable paintings and precious vases, with other curious ob- jects of art. The paintings are mostly by artists of the time Of Louis XIV., and comprise good specimens of Mignard, Coypel, Boiillogne, Van Spaendonck, etc. In one of the apart- ments are two splendid candelabra, and a circular table formed of green malachite and or molu, which were presented to Na- poleon by the Emperor Alexander, on the occasion of the treaty of Tilsit, and are quite unique. The private apartments of the king were also those of Napoleon, and are plainly furnished. The garden of the Grand Trianon is laid out in a style similar to that of Versailles, and contains several fine fountains, the chief of which is the cascade of Languedoc, in Carrara marble. There are many excellent pieces of sculpture in various parts, and among them two portraits of Louis XV., and Maria Lec- zinska, under the form of allegorical figures, by Coustou. The back part of the ground is laid out in groves resembling laby- rinths. The Grand Trianon was always a favourite resi- dence of Louis XIV., Louis XV., and Louis XVI., as it was a retreat from the pomp and parade of Versailles. Napoleon also frequently passed several days together at the Trianon, and had a direct road made to it from St. Cloud. Admission is granted without any difficulty. VERSAILLES. 503 Lk Petit Trianon, situated at one of the extremities of the garden of the grand Trianon, forms a pavilion of about 72 feet square. It consists of a ground floor and two storeys, decorated with fluted Corinthian columns and pilasters crown- ed by a balustrade, formerly surmounted by vases and groups. The interior is adorned in the most delicate style. The only remarkable rooms are the queen's boudoir, the walls of which are ornamented with arabesques; and her bed-room hung with blue silk, and containing a bed the drapery of which is muslin embroidered with gold, formerly used by the empress Maria Louisa. The garden is laid out in the English style, and contains some choice plants and trees. It is extensive, and has a fine piece of water, on the banks of which is a Swiss village, erected by Marie Antoinette. In another part of the garden is a little theatre of the most elegant design, formerly used by the Court, and which should be particularly asked for by the visitor, since it is exceedingly well worthy of being seen, and almost always omitted to be shown by the guides. The house was built for Mme. Dubarri, by Louis XV., who was there when he was attacked by the contagious di- sease of which he died. Louis XVI. gave it to his queen, and it was under her tasteful directions that the gardens w ere made what they now are. For admission application has only to be made at the gate. The Town of Versailles is divided into the quarter of Noire Dame, to the north of the Avenue de Paris, and the quarter of St. Louis, to the south. The only remarkable buildings in the former are the church of Notre Dame, built by Mansard in 1684; the Royal College of Versailles, erected in 1766 by Queen Maria Leczinska, and containing a good cabinet of natural history ; a villa formerly belonging to Madame Elizabeth, sister of Louis XVI. ; anda small theatre adjoining the palace. In this quarter is situated the market- place.; and on the Place Hoche is a bronze statue of that Gene- ral, who was a native of this town. Here, too, is a small English chapel, in which service is regularly performed by a clergyman of the Established Church of England. Thequar- tier de St. Louis contains the Cathedral Church dedicated to the same saint, built by the last of the Mansards, in 1743. After the church of St. Louis, the most remarkable edifice in old Versailles is the immense building on the left of the palace, called k Grand Commm. It is substantially built of brick 504 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. round a square court, and contains 1,000 rooms, in which not fewer than 2,000 persons were lodged when the Court re- sided at Versailles. Having been converted into a manufac- tory of arms in 1795, the entrance was decorated with clus- ters of arms and trophies in relief. This manufactory attained the greatest celebrity, and supplied the French army annually with 50,000 muskets; but in 1815 it was stripped anddestroyed by the Prussians. Near le Grand Commun is the public library, established in the building formerly called the Hotel des Affaires Etrangeres. It contains nearly 50,000 volumes, most of them choice editions proceeding from the libraries of Louis XVI. and the Count de Provence, afterwards Louis XVIII. It is open to the public daily from 9 to 3 o'clock, except Sundays and festivals. To the library is attached a small museum. The Hotel de la Guerre, contiguous to the above, is remarkable as the place where the vast military plans which rendered France so powerful under Louis XIV. were discussed and resolved on. In the quartier St. Louis is the famous tennis-court celebrated for the oath taken by the National Assembly, which was the signal of the Revolution; and it was at the gate of the Orangery that, on the 9th of Sep- tember, 1792, the prisoners of Orleans, to the number of 52, were massacred. The three avenues that branch off from the Place d'Armes are known by the names of the Avenues de Sceaux to the south, de St. Cloud to the north, and de Paris in the middle. South of the town and the palace is a vast sheet of water, called Piece des Suisses, from its having been formed by the Swiss w r ho composed part of the guards of Louis XIV. It is bordered with grass-plats, and is 2,100 feet in length by 720 in breadth. To the east of the Piece des Suisses, which the route de Brest separates from the park, is the potager, or fruit and kitchen garden, of the palace, 28 acres in extent, and formed into divisions by terraces and walls. Contiguous to the potager is the beautiful and picturesque English garden of the Hotel Le Tellier, formed by the Count de Provence, afterwards Louis XVIII., but now belonging to a private individual. A considerable number of foreigners, including many English families, have chosen Versailles for their residence. The air is salubrious, but colder than at Paris. The streets are for the most part wide and clean, and in the summer nothing can be more delightful than its nume- rous walks; but in: the winter, the streets^ avenues, and boule^ VINCENNES, 505 vards are deserted, and present a melancholy appearance. The town possesses a few manufactories, and has three annual fairs.l VINCENNES— is a Tillage about a league eastward of Paris, celebrated for the chateau and forest which have existed here from the year 1137. At that time Louis le Jeune built a country-seat here ; and more than a century later St. Louis used frequently to reside in it, and to administer justice, as it is said, under an oak in the forest. In 1337, Philippe de Valois demolished the ancient building, and laid the founda- tions of that which still exists, and which was completed by his royal successors. Henry V., king of England, died afc Vincennes, 1422. Louis XL enlarged and embellished the chateau, which he made his favourite residence. It was in the reign of that cruel and superstitious prince, about the year 1472, that the donjon of Vincennes became a state prison. Charles IX. died here in 1574. In the reign of Louis XIII., Mary de Medicis, his mother, built the magnificent gallery, and Louis XIII. commenced the two large buildings to the south, which were finished by Louis XIV. In 1661, Cardinal Mazarin died at Vincennes. The Duke of Orleans, when regent of the kingdom, continued to live in the Palais Royal ; and in order to have the young king, Louis XV., near him, he fixed his majesty's residence, in the first year of his reign (1715) at Vincennes instead of Versailles, till the palace of the Tuileries could he prepared for him. After that period the castle was used as a slate prison, and the celebrated Mirabeau was confined in it from 1777 to 1780. In 1804 the unfor- tunate Duke d'Enghien, having been arrested in Germany, was shot here by order of Napoleon, on the 20th March, and was buried in the southern ditch of the castle, fffis body was dis- interred in 1816, and placed under a magnificent monument erected to his memory in the chapel. Prince Polignac aod the other ministers of Charles X. were for some short space confined here after the Pievolution of 1830. The chateau i Among the different hotels established at Versailles, the Hotel des Reservoirs is the lirst not only for its size and comfort, but also for its situation, adjoining the Palace, and having a direct entrance into the gardens. The arrangements for families and gentlemen are on the same plan as those of Meurice's Hotel in Paris. There are several private rooms, and a spacious coffee- room for the accommodation of the daily visitors. Besides that establishment, M. Duboux, the proprietor, has lately fitted up, exactly opposite, an extensive mansion for the accommodation of families wishing to make a stay. Information of every kind afforded. English is spoken. 43 500 V1NCENNJES. forms a parallelogram of large dimensions ; round it were formerly nine towers, of which eight were demolished to the level of the wall, in 1818. That which remains, called the Tour de I'Horloge, is a lofty square tower which forms the entrance. The donjon or keep is a detached building on the side towards Paris, and is highly worthy of the attention of the antiquary. The chapel, called la Sainte Chapelle, is a fine building of the 16th century. It is one of the latest specimens of pointed architecture remaining in France, and is a curious instance of the imitation and adaptation of the discordant parts of preceding styles. The plan of it closely resembles that of the Sainte Ghapelle of Paris; the interior is light and remark- able for the stained glass of its windows, executed by Jean Cousin, in which the device of Henry II., the letter H, with the crescent for his mistress, Diana of Poitiers, bespeaks the period of their being executed. The monument of the Duke d'Enghien consists of a group of three allegorical figures surrounding the Duke, and, being formed of very fine white marble, produces a grand effect. Upon the base is an appro- priate and well-composed Latin inscription. A solemn service used to be annually celebrated here for the repose of the Duke's soul; but since 1830, mass has no longer been said in it. The altar and balustrades in white marble are pecu- liarly chaste and beautiful. The castle has for some time past been used as the central depot of artillery for the garrison of Paris, and has been put in a state of complete defence. In consequence of this the donjon tower has been converted into a powder-magazine, and there is no longer any possibility of gaining admission to it. In the second court are kept the artillery , and an immense quantity of shot and shells. In the first court in front of the great tower, batteries for the school of artillery are from time to time erected, while in the forest a mound is formed, and an open space is kept for the exercise of the artillerymen in firing. In one of the buildings north- ward of the chapel is a well-arranged armoury, containing 50,000 muskets, 25,000 pistols, and 40,000 sabres, with vari- ous other arms. The whole are kept in beautiful order, and in a state of constant readiness. Two regiments of artillery and a battalion of infantry form the garrison. For permission to see the interior of the chateau, application must be made, by letter, to M. le Commandant du Chateau de Vincennes. The forest is very extensive, and is a favourite resort for the inhabitants of Paris and the neighbouring villages. ROUTES FROM CALAIS TO PARIS. 507 ABDEIBA. ROUTES FROM TEE COAST TO PARIS. I . Route from Calais to Paris, through Abbeville and Beauvais, Posts. Haut Buisson. 1 Marquise. Boulogne stir Mer. 2 Samer. 1 Cormont. lfo Montreuii. 1% Nampont. 1 Bernay. i Nouvion. IJ^ Abbeville. — Fioe Church. 2J4 Airaines. 1J4 Camps. 1J£ Poix. ±U Granvilliers. 1^ Marseille sur Oise. 2|£ Beauvais.-— Cathedral Church. 1% Noailles. 1% Puiseux. 1 J4: Beaumont sur Oise. i.J4 Moiselles. 1 l A St. Denis. — Abbey Church, i Paris. Route from Calais to Paris through St.-Omer and Amiens, Posts. 2 Ardres. 1 La Recousse. 2 St. Omer. — Churches. 2 Avroult. ADDENDA* 1*4 Lillcrs. 1*4 Pernes. 1*4 St. Pol. 1% Prevent. 2 Boullens. 1% Talmas. 2 Amiens. — Splendid Cathedral. 1*4 Rebecourt. 1 Flers. 1J£ Breteuil. 1*4 Wavignies. 1 St. Juste. 2 Clermont. 1$£ Laigneville. 1^ Chantilly.— Chateau. 1*4 Luzarches. 1 *4 fieouen. — Chateau. 1 M St. Denis. — Abbey Church. 1 Paris. 35 III. Route from Ostend to Paris through Lille, Posts. 4*4 Furnes. 2^ Rousbrugge. 2% Ypres.— Hotel de Ville. 4 Lille.— Citadel, Manufactures. Pont a Marcq. 2*4 Douay. — Arsenal. Bac. — Aubencheul. 1*4 Cambray.— Cathedral, Citadel. 1*4 Bonavy. 1% Fins. 2 Peronne. 1*4 Marchele Pot. 1 Fouches. 1 Roye. 1J£ Conchy les Pots. 1 Cuvilly. 1 Gournay sur Aronde. %J4 Bois de Li bus. ROUTE FROM HAVRE TO PARIS. 509 1 J4 Pont St. Maxence. 1% Senlis. — Cathedral. 1 La CSiapelle en Serval. 1% Louvres. ±% B our get. 1J£ Paris. 43 IV. Route from Dieppe to Paris through Rouen and Pontoise, Posts. 2 Ormonviile. 1J4 Totes. 1*4 Cambres. 2 Rouen.— Cathedral, Church of St. Ouen, Bridge^ Manufactures. 1J4 Forge Ferel. 1 Bourg Baudouin. ±H Econis. 2 Thilliers. 2 Magny. 1% Bordeau do Vigny. 2 Pontoise. i Ilerblay. 1J£ Courbevoye. 1 Paris. nu V. Route from Eavre to Paris through Rouen and St* Get- main. {Lower road) Posts. 2 La Botte. 1J£ Bolbec. 1 Lillebonne. ±U Caudebec— Chnrcb. 1% Duclair. 2^ Bouen. ± l A Port St. Ouen, 2 Louviers. m Gaillon, 43, ADDENDA* 1% Vernon. \y A Bonnieres. Mantes. — Church. 2 Meulan. i Triel. 1J£ St. Germain en Laye.— Chateau. Courbevoye. 1 Paris. Vf. Route from St. VaUry sur Somme. Pes • s. 2^ St. Valery to Abbeville. 2^ Abbeville to Airaines. 5 % Airaines to Camps. 1 Camps to Poix. Poix to Granvilliers, 1J£ Granvilliers to Marseilles. 214 Marseilles to Beauvais. Beauvais to Noailles. 1^ Noailles to puisseux. Puisseux to Beaumont, ij^ Beaumont to ftloissellcs. 1J£ Moisselles to St. Bonis 1 St. Denis to Paris. 21 U KINGS OF FRANCE* 611 CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE KINGS OF FRANCE. A.D. Pepin . . . 750 Charlemagne . . 768 Louis I. Le Dcbonnaire 814 Charles II. Le Chauve 840 Louis II. Le Begue . 877 Louis III. et Carloman 879 Eudes ... 888 Charles IV. Le Simple 898 Raoul ... 923 Louis IY. d'Outremcr 936 Lothaire . . 954 Louis V. . . . 986 Hugh Capet . . 987 Robert . • • 996 Henry I. . . . 1031 Philippe I. . . 1061 Louis VI. Le Gros . 1108 Louis VII. Le Jeune . 1137 Philippe II. Auguste . 1180 Louis VOL . . 1223 Louis IX. St. Louis . 1226 Philippe III. Le Eardi 1270 Philippe IV. Le Bel . 1285 Louis X. Le Hutin . 1314 Philippe V. Le Long* 1316 Charles IV. Le Bel . 1322 Philippe VI. Be Valois 1328 Jean II. . • . 1350 Charles V. . . 1364 A.ti. Charles VI. . . 1380 Charles VH. . . 1422 Louis XL . . 1461 Charles VHI. . ? 1483 Louis XII. . . 1498 Francis I. . . 1515 Henry IL . . 1547 Francis II. . . 1559 Charles IX. . . 1560 Henry HI. . . 1574 Henry IV. . . 1589 Louis XIII. . . 1610 Louis XIV . . 1643 Louis XV. . . 1715 Louis XVI. * . 1774 States-General . 1789 Constituent Assem- bly . . . 1789 Legislative Assembly 1791 Republic, National Convention . 1792 Reign of Terror . 1793 Directory . . 1795 Consulate . . 1797 Napoleon, Emperor. 1804 Louis XVIII. restored 1814 Charles X. . . 1825 Louis Philippe. . 1830 512 Reaumur's scale turned into Fahrenheit's. RfiAUMUR'S SCALE TURNED INTO FAHRENHEIT'S. Reau- if a lire ii- Reau- r ct II i ell- Reau- b anrGii- F«ihrenu mur. heit. mur. heit. mur. heit. mur. heit. O i O AA t A 50 144.50 20 77.00 10 9.50 209.75 49 142.25 19 74.75 1 1 7.25 7(S 207.50 48 140.00 18 72.50 12 5.00 11 aAt en r #05. z5 47 137J5 17 70.25 13 O 7K z.7o iff 70 zUd. 00 46 135.50 16 68.00 14 A F. A 0.50 »7K lb G) AA w r zU0.75 45 133.25 15 65.75 15 1 .75 74 ■< no t a iyb.50 44 131.00 14 63.50 16 A AA 4.00 16 196,25 4o 128.75 13 61.25 17 O OK 72 194.00 42 126.50 12 59.00 18 8.50 71 191.75 41 124.25 11 56.75 19 10.75 70 189.50 40 122.00 10 54.50 20 13.00 69 . 39 119.75 9 52.25 21 •i £ Of. lO.ZO 68 185,00 38 1 17.50 8 50.00 22 ■t ff tn 67 loz. /a 37 1 15.25 7 47.75 23 iy.7o 66 ■i oa tn lbO.oO 36 113.00 6 45.50 24 22 .00 65 1 >7Q O r 17b. zo 35 1 10,75 5 43.25 O K. Gl/i OK z4.zo 64 176.00 34 108.50 4 41.00 26 or> Kft 63 173.75 33 106.25 3 38.75 27 oo >7K zb.7o 62 171.50 32 104.00 2 36.50 28 31.00 61 169.25 31 101.75 j 34.25 29 33.25 60 167.00 30 99.50 0 32.00 30 35.50 59 164.75 29 97.25 1 29.75 31 37.75 58 162,50 28 95.00 2 27.50 32 40.00 57 160.25- 27 92.75 3 25.25 56 158.00 26 90.50 4 23.00 55 155.75 25 88.25 5 20.75 54 153.50 24 86 00 6 18.50 53 151.25 23 83.75 7 16.25 52 149,00 22 81.50 8 14.00 51 146,75 21 79.25 Ilc75 PARIS DIRECTORY* 513 PARIS DIRECTORY. AMBASSADORS, ETC., AT THE COURT OF FRANCE. [Hours of business from about 11 to 1 o'clock.] Austria and Parma, Ambassador, No. 121, rue St. Domi- nique. Raden, resident minister, No. 16, rue Lepelletier. Bavaria, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipotentiary, No. 9, rue Neuve des Mathurins. Belgium, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipotentiary, No. 7, rue de la Chaussee d'Antin. Bolivia, minister plenipotentiary, No. 31, rue Laffitle. Brazil, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipotentiary, No. 9, rue St. Georges. Central America, envoy extraordinary, minister pleni- potentiary, No. 21, rue de Provence. Chili, charge d'affaires, No. 26, rue de Tivoli. Denmark, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipotentiary, No. 2, rue Chauchat. Free Towns, resident minister, No. 22, rue Caumartin. Great Britain, ambassador extraordinary and minister plenipotentiary, No. 39, rue du Faubourg St. Honore. Greece, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipotentiary, No. 26, rue d'Anjou St. Honore. Hanover, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipotentiary, No. 85, rue du Faubourg St. Honore. Hesse-Darmstadt, charge d'affaires, No. 25, rue Neuve de Luxembourg. Hesse-Electorale, resident minister, No. 9, rue de Clichy. Holland, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipotentiary, No. 22, rue de la Ville l'Eveque. Lucca, charge d'affaires, No. 24, rue Taitbout. Meckxenburg-Schwerin, resident minister, No. 14, rue de la Madeleine. Mecklenburg-Strelitz and Saxe Weimar, charge d'af- faires, No. 7, rue Cauraarfin. 514 PARIS DIRECTORY. Mexico, charge d'affaires, No, 61, rue de Provence. Nassau, charge d'affaires, No. 10, rue de la Ville l'Eveque Portugal, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipotentiary, No. 20, rue de Tivoli. Prussia, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipotentiary, No. 86, rue do Lille. Roman States, charge d'affaires, No. 20, rue St. Guil- laume. Russia, ambassador, No. 1, rne des Champs Elysees. Sardinia, ambassador, No. 69, rue St. Dominique. Saxony, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipotentiary, No. 21, rue de la Pepiniere. Spain, ambassador, No. 7, rue de la Michaudiere. Sweden, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipotentiary, No. 58, rue d'Anjou St. Honore. Switzerland, charge d'affaires, No. 23, rue Neuve des Mathurins. Tuscany, resident minister, No. 4, rue du Marche d'Agues- seau. Two Sicilies, ambassador, No. 8, rue Las Casas. United States, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipo- tentiary, No. 17, rue Rousselet, Faubourg St. Honore ; Con- sul, No. 20, rue de la Vicloire. Wurtemberg, envoy extraordinary, minister plenipoten- tiary, No. 15, rue Neuve des Mathurins. Saxe Weimar, charge d'affaires, No. 7, rue Caumartin. Turkey, ambassador, No. 89 9 Rue de la Pepiniere. ENGLISH NEWSPAPERS. GALIGNANTS MESSENGER, a Political Journal, published every day, at Six in the' morning for Paris, and at One in the afternoon for France and Foreign Countries. Terms : A single paper, 10 sods ; A Fortnight, 6 frs. ; One Month, lOfrs. ; 3 Months, 28 frs.— OfGce, Rue Vivienne, No. 18, at Galignani and Co.'s Library. V The aim of this long-established Journal is to furnish to the reader, at a single view, all that the London and Conti- nental press daily contain, omitting no fact of import- ance or interest, and recording the opinions of every PARIS DIRECTORY. 515 party. — An extensive private correspondence, and full in- formation upon every topic of social and political interest, completes the claims of Galignani's Messenger to the patron- age it has enjoyed for so many years. The LONDON and PARIS OBSERVER, a Literary Gazette, published on Sundays — Terms: One Month, 5 frs.; Three Months, 14 frs.— Office, 18, rue Vivicnne. V This Journal embodies the spirit of current English and French Literature, and contains ample extracts of every new work as it issues from the Press, selected from more than twenty of the best quarterly, monthly, and weekly periodicals. PRINCIPAL FRENCH JOURNALS. Le Moniteur Universel, (the official Government Morn- ing Journal), 28 fr. a-quarfer ; Office No, 0, rue des Poitevins. Journal des Dkbats (Ministerial), 20 fr. a-quarter ; Office No. 17, rue des Pretres St. Germain 1'Auxerrois. La Presse (Ministerial), 12 fr. a-quarter; Office No. 16, rue St. George. Le Temps (Ministerial), 18 fr. a-quarter; Office No. 5, rue du Mail. Journal de Paris (Ministerial Journal), 16 fr. a-quarter ; Office No. 10, rue d' Alger. Le National (Republican), 16 fr. a -quarter ; Office No. 3, rue Lepelletier. Le Bon Sens (Republican), 15fr. a-quarter; Office No. 16, rue du Croissant. Le Constitutionnel (Monarchical Opposition), 20fr. a- quarter ; Office No. 121, rue Montmarlre. Le Courrier Fran^ais (Opposition), 20 fr. a-quarter; Office No. 55, rue Grenelle St. Honore. Journal du Commerce (Opposition), 20 fr. a-quarler ; Office No. 6, rue St. Joseph. Le Siecle (Opposition), 10 fr. a-quarter ; Office No. 9, rue Laffitte. La Quotidienne (Carlist), 18 fr. a-quarter; Office No. 3, rue Neuye des Rons Enfans. 516 PARIS DIRECTORY. La France (Carlist), 15 fr. a-quarter; Office No. 1, rue des Filles St. Thomas. Gazette des Tribunaux (reports only Law Intelligence), 18 fr. a-quarter ; Office No. 11, Quai aux Fleurs. Le Droit (reports only Law Intelligence), 16 fr. a- quarter; Office No. 40, Quai des Orfevres. Le Moniteur Parisien (Evening Ministerial Journal), 7f. 50 c. a-quarter ; Office No. 22, rue Grange -Bateliere. Le Messager des Chambres (Evening Opposition Jour- nal), 20 fr. a-quarter; Office No. 3, rue du Goq-heron. La Gazette de France (Evening Carlist Journal), 20 fr. a-quarter ; Office No. 12, rue du Doyenne. Le Petit Gourrierdes Dames (Fashions, published every five days), 9 fr. a-quarter ; Office No. 2, Boulevard des Haliens. Revue et Gazette des Theatres (Theatrical Intelligence, twice a-week), 10 fr. a quarter ; Office No. 55, rue Ste.Anne, PRINCIPAL REVIEWS AND MAGAZINES. Revue de Paris (once a- week), 20 fr. a-quarter; Office No. 17, rue des Filles St. Thomas. Revue du 19eme Siecle, (monthly), 11 fr. a-quarter; Office No. 16, rue de Seine. Revue des Deux Mondes (monthly), 26 fr. for six months; Office No. 10, rue des Beaux Arts. Revue Britanmque (monthly), 27 fr. for six months ; Office No. 21, rue des Rons Enfans. Ann ales des Voyages (monthly), 30 fr. aycar ; Office No. 23, rue St. Marc Feydeau. V Subscriptions to all these Journals may be taken at Messrs. Galignaai and Go's, LIST OF PARIS BANKERS. Andre and Cottier, rue des Petites Ecuries, No. 40. Ardoin, Hubbard, and Co., rue de la Chaussee d'Antin* No. 45. Audi fret (Ch.) and Co., rue Lepelletier, No. 16. Baguenault and Co., boulevard Pissonniere, No. 17, PARIS DIRECTORY- 517 Berthovd (Freres), rue Richer, No. 3 bis. Blanc (J. A.), Colin and Co., rue Lepelletier, No. 14. Caccia (J.G.), rueNeuve des Petits Champs, No. 66. Callaghan (Widow Luc and Son), rue Neuve des Mathu- rins, No. 26. Carette (Firmin) and Minguet, rue LafQte, No. 3. Coppinger (James), rue St. Croix d'Antin, No. 7. Cor (Th.), rue de la Sourdiere, No. 29. Daly (Malachy), Place Vendome, No. 8. Davillier (Jn. Ch.) and Co., rue Basse du Rempart, No. 16. D'Eichthal (Louis), rue Lepelletier, No. 14. Delamarre-Martin-Didier, rue des Jeuneurs, No. 7. Delessert and Co., rue Montmartre, No. 176. Delisle (Widow Thomas) and Co., rue de la Chaussee d'Antin, No. 26. DEtchegoyen (J. L.B.), rue Neuve des Capucines, No. 14. Durand (F.) and Co., rue Basse du Rempart, No. 30. Ferrere, Laffitte and Co., rue Laffitte, No. 36. Fould (B. L.) and Fould Oppenheim, rue Bergere, No. 10. Gossweiler (A.) and Co., faubourg Poissonniere, No. 5. Hagermann, rue de Tivoli, No. 6. Hottinguer and Co., rue Bergere, No.ll. Laffitte and Blount, Place Vendome, No. 16. Lefebvre (Jacques) and Co., faubourg Poissonniere, No.60. Leo, rue Louis le Grand, No. 11. Leroux (J. A.), rue de l'Echiquier, No. 35 bis. Mallet (Freres) and Co., rue de la Chaussee d'Antin, No. 13. Martin d' Andre, rue St.Lazare, No. 88. Odier (Gabriel) and Co., rue du Houssaye, No. 2. Oppermann and Co., rue St. Georges, No. 2. Outrequin (F. J.) and Jauge, Passage Sandrie, No. 5. Perier (Freres) and Co., rue Neuve du Luxembourg, No. 27. Pillet-Will and Co., rue de la Chaussee d'Antin, No.70. Rey (Camille), rue Mestee, No. 31. Robin-Grandin and Co., rue Neuve St. Augustin, No. 20. Rothschild (Fjreres), rue Laffitte, No. 15. Rougemont de Lowenberg, rue Bergere, No. 9. Thuret and Co., Place Vendome, No. 12. Valois Jeune and Co., rue de l'Echiquier, No. 19. Welles and Co., Place St. George, No. 3. 44 518 PARIS DIRECTORY. BRITISH CHARITABLE FUND. This excellent institution, of which we have given a de- scription (vide p. 97), is under the patronage of His Excellency the Earl Granville. The Chairman of the Committee is the Right Rev. Bishop Luscombe, and the Secretary, the Rev. G. Lefevre. —Subscriptions are received at the committee- room, No. 16, rue dela Madeleine; by the British consul ; and at Messrs. A. and W. Galignani and Co.'s, 18, rue Yivienne. BRITISH FREE SCHOOLS, For the gratuitous education of the children of poor British subjects, and for the care and maintenance of poor British or- phans, 31, rue des Ecuries d'Artois, Faubourg du Roule. These institutions, open to the public every day, except Wednesday, from 9 till 4, are patronised by H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent, and His Excellency the British Ambassador, and are supported by voluntary contributions. The com- mittee consists of twelve gentlemen, who receive subscriptions, and publish an annual report. PRINCIPAL FURNISHED HOTELS, TO MOST OF WHICH ARE ATTACHED RESTAURANTS. — WINES, CARRIAGES, HORSES, ETC., MAY BE HAD, Amiraute, rue Neuve St. Augustin, No. 47. Angleterre, rue des Filles St. Thomas, No. 18. Astracan, rue de Grenelle St. Germain, No. 18. Bath, rue Rivoli, No. 52. Baudot, rue Neuve St. Augustin, No. 49. Bedford, Lawson's, rue St. Honore, No.323, and rue Rivoli, No. 24. Bristol, Place Vendome, No, 5. Canterbury, rue de laPaix, No. 24. Castiglione, rue Castiglione, No. 10. Castille, rue Richelieu, No. 113, and Boulevard des Ita- liens, No 5. PARIS DIRECTORY. Congres, rue Rivoli, No. 44. Dofvres, rue de la Paix, No. 21. Strangers, rue Vivienne, No. 3. Europe, rue Richelieu, No. 109. Hollande, rue de la Paix, No. 16. Lille and Albion, rue St. Thomas du Louvre, No* 40. Londres, Place Vendome, No. 10. Meurice, rue Rivoli, No. 42. [For particulars of this excellent hotel, seepage 13.] Montmokency, Roulevard Montmartre, No. i2. Normaivdie, rue St. Honore, No. 240. Paris, Rue de Richelieu, No. 111. Prince Regent, rue St. Hyacinthe St. Honore, No. 10. Princes, rue Richelieu, No. 109. Rastadt, rue Neuve St. Augustin, No. 36. Rhin, Place Vendome, No 4. St. James, rue St. Honore, No. 366. Si net, rue du Faubourg St. Honore, No. 52-54. Terrasse, rue Rivoli, No. 50. Tours (Grand), rue Notre Dame des Victoires, No. 32. Vaudeville, rue Reaujolais-des-Tuileries, No. 4. Wagram, rue Rivoli, No. 28. Windsor, rue Rivoli, No. 38. ATTORNEYS AND SOLICITORS. Gastaignet, (French,) rue d^anovre, No. ai. Delagrange, Chamber counsel, rue des Petitcs Ecuries, No. l\i Gabriel, rue Montholon, No. i^. Lawson, rue St. Honore, No. 335. Okey, barrister and chamber counsel to her Britannic Majesty' Embassy, Faubourg St. Honore, No. 35. Sloper, Piace Dauphine, No. 12. SWORN TRANSLATOR, etc. Gardera, at Messrs. Galignaniand Co.'s, rue Vivienne. — Acts re lative to births, marriages, deaths, baptisms, wills, documents con nected with patents, etc., translated from or into the English, Ger man, Dutch, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, and Latin Languages. 520 PARIS DIRECTORY. AGENTS. Ammosnino, general commission agent, packs, forwards, and in- sures goods to all parts, rue Thevenot, No. ! 5 bis. March and Arthur, house and commercial agents, rue Montha- bor, No. 7. Parker and Co., rue Neuve des Capucincs, No. 16, carry on every branch of agency. PROFESSORS. Boldoni, rue du Lycee, near the Palais Royal, No. 2. — (Italian and French.) DouviLLE, rue Monthabor, No. io. — (French.) Gachet, (Mrs.) rue d'Antin, No. 20. aux Batignolies, Barriere de Clichy. — (French.) Gardera (Francis), at Messrs. Galignani and Co. — (French ) Halpin, rue de la Tour d'Auvergne, No. 26. — (English.) Henri, rue Neuve Vivienne,No. 48. - (French.) LEA (Miss), Place Vendome, 21. — (English.) Ludger, rue St. Antoine, No. 122. - (German.) Neveux (Member of the Grammatical Society of Paris), No. i5, rue Neuve du Luxembourg, near the Tuileries. - (French.) Murray, rue du Faubourg St. Honore, No. 102. — (English.) Slade, rue de GourcelleSj No. 2 bis.- (Latin and Greek.) Williamson (Mrs.), rue Neuve St. George, No. 8.— (English.) PROFESSORS OF MUSIC. CONSTANS (Paul), Rue de Rivoli, No. 18.- (Flute.) CoNSTANS (Louis), Rue de Rivoli, No. 18. — (Piano.) PHYSICIANS AND SURGEONS. Broue, physician, surgeon, and accoucheur, rue de la Chaussee d'Antin, No. 28. Chermside (Sir R.), rue Taitbout, No. 1, bis. Cloquet (Jules), surgeon, rue Grange Bateliere, No. 2. Dubois (Paul), physician and accoucheur, rue Monsieur le Prince, No. 12. Gunning, surgeon, rue Neuve du Luxembourg, No 28. HlGGlNS, Physician and Accoucheur, rue de Rivoli, No. 5o bis. Latham, rue du Faubourg St. Honore, No. 97. MacLoughlin, rue de la Paix, No. 8. Seveste, physician and accoucheur, rue St Marc, No. \(\. Verity, rue du Faubourg St. Honore, No. 25. CUPPER. Backler, rue Neuve St. Roch, No. 49. CHEMISTS AND APOTHECARIES. Kent, Place Vendome, No. 26. O'Grady and ^achelot, rue Neuve St. Augustin, No. \S. PARIS DIRECTORY. 521 Patten, Faubourg St.Honore, No. 62. Reward and Co., Rue Vivienne, No. ig, bottom of the yard, Roberts, Place Yendome, No. 23. DENTISTS. Desirabode, Palais Royal, No. i54, or rue de Valois, No. 19, on the second floor, has carried his art to its highest degree of per- fection ; his artificial teeth are remarkable for their solidity and brilliancy. ToiRAC, rue du Mail, No. 7. BOARDING-SCHOOLS. BOYS. Cook and SlEVRAC, at Choisy le Roi. GIRLS. Akglade (Mme.), No. 82, rue du Faubourg du Roule. Bray (Mrs.), Grande rue de Chaillot,,No. 66. Brunon (Mrs.), Avenue des Champs Elysees, No. 86, at the hotel called Bel Bespiro. Day Betson (Mrs.), Avenue d'Antin, No. 3 bis, Champs Elysec*. FENCING-MASTER. Alliac, rue de Choiseul, No. 3. PAINTERS AND DRAWING-MASTERS. Constans (Leon), rue de Rivoli, No. 1 8. —(Flowers.) Lazaras (Mme.), rue d'AnjouSt. Eonore,No. 26.— (First style in Chalk.) Meuret, rue Neuve des Petits Champs, No. 87.— (Miniature ) Storelli, rue St. Honore, No. 387.— (Landscape in oil and water colours, and also drawing-master.) STATIONER. Deronge ; as also travelling-cases, No. f iy rue de la Bourse. OPTICIAN. CiIEVALLIER, optician and mathematical-instrument-maker to the King, President of the Class of Sciences at the Athinte des Arts of Paris, member of several other scientific and learned so- cieties ; author of the Conservateur de la Vue, in one volume 3vo, also of the Essai sur V An de I'lnge'nieiir, and other works ; in- ventor of the different glasses and spectacles called Lunettes acli- niques and Lunettes Jumelles, for which he has obtained letters patent, and which he has called Lunettes centre'es, because they magnify much more thaw any other glasses, and are made to suit 44. 62£ PAiiis bmfiCTOftY. the focus of both eyes by a very simple mechanical process \ And to whom science is indebted for numerous other great improve- ments, including the Lunettes isocentriques with gray glasses, and for which he has received several medals at the different exhibi- tions of the Specimens of the Produce of the Useful Arts and Ma- nufactures, and also the highest premiums given by numerous aca- demies and scientific and learned societies. — Makes with the ut- most precision all kinds of instruments used in optics, mathematics, physics, and mineralogy. In 1810 lie invented an optical scale, by means of which he is able to ascertain, with exactitude, the focus required for all persons who are obliged to use spectacles. His establishment, which was founded by his ancestor in 174°* aT1( l has been under his own immediate direction since 1796, is situated at the Tour d'Horloge of the Palais de Justice, No. 1, opposite the Marche aux Fleurs. — N.B. He has no other depot either in Paris or the Departments. PORCELAIN- WAREHOUSES, etc. Constant (G ), Director of the only depot of porcelain from the Royal Manufactory at Sevres, rue de Kivoli, No. 18. This establishment is open to the public every day, Sundays and festivals excepted; it was principally founded for the convenience of foreigners, and exhibits a great variety in size, form, and co- louring, of the most handsome productions of the celebrated ma- nufactory at Sevres. JEWELLER, GOLDSMITH, etc. Didiot, Galerie du Palais Royal, No, iGG, at the Golden Ball, has a large and elegant assortment for the table, toilette, or deco- ration of the person, at moderate prices. ENGLISH PASTRY-COOKS. Colombin, rue Neuve du Luxembourg, No. 4* Frazer, Confectioner and Italian warehouseman, rue St. Honore, No. 353, bis. Guerre, rue de Rivoli,No. 36. TAILORS. Moulin, rue Neuve St. Marc, No. 1 1. MANTUA-MAKERS. Camille, (Madame), rue de Choiseul, No.i5 ; also Court dresses. Desertine, Boulevard Montmartre, Wo. 9. BOOT AND SHOE-MAKERS. Chalopin, rue Vivienne, No. 7. — (For ladies.) Lemmie, rue des Louyois, No. 8. ~ iFor gentlemen.) PARIS DIRECTORY. 523 GLOVES AND ARTICLES FOR DRESS. MAYER, renowned for the making of shirts, stocks with double buckles, etc., Passage Ghoiseul, No. 32. Mulot, rue Vivienne, No. 18. TAILOR FOR SHIRTS — (Patented by the King.) Pierrkt et Lamy Housset, No,g5, rue Richelieu. CARPETS AND BEDDING. Foye-Davenne, No. 63, rue Neuve des Petits Champs. BLONDES, LACE, etc. ViolarD, rue Castiglione, No. 2, or rue de Choiseul, No 2 bis ; and articles of fashion in the very first style. EMBROIDERERS. Reiciie, No. 4> rue du Marche St. Honore ; capes, dresses, col- lars, blond, and cambrics. HAIR-DRESSERS. Decoudray, rue Vivienne, No. 10. Walker, rue du Port Mahon, No. 8. SILK, CAMBRIC, AND NOUYEAUTES WAREHOUSES. Hemery, (aux Deux JVuits), No.3i, Place de la Bourse, at the corner of rue Feydeau. Maison Gagehn, rue Richelieu, No. q3. Maison Noailles, rue de la Bourse, No. 4- PARASOLS AND UMBRELLAS. Cazal, patented. No. 10, boulevard Montmartre. DANCING-MASTER. Gourdoux, rue St. Honore. No. 320. RESTAURATEURS AND CAFES. At those marked by a * breakfasts and dinners are to be had ; at all the others hot or cold breakfasts or evening refreshments only. * Rocher de Cancalle, rue MontorgeniU * Freves Provengaux, Palais Roy ah 524 PARIS DIRECTORY. * Cafe ValoUy Palais Royal, No. i7o. * Cafe Anglais, boulevard des Italiens. * Cafe de Paris, boulevard des Italiens. * Vefour, Palais Royal. * Cafe Laiter. rue de Rivoli, No. 46. * Au Grand VateU No. 104, Palais Royal, Galerie Valois.— « Spacious saloons. This house enjoys a good reputation. * A la Poissonnerie Anglaise, rue Castiglione, corner of rue St. Honore. * Cafe de la Bourse, corner of rue Vivienne. * Cafe" Guilhem, rue de la Paix, No. i3. * Cafe" Durand, Place de la Madeleine, Cafe de Foy, Palais Royal. Cafe de la Rotonde, Palais Royal. Cafe Lemblin, Palais Royal. Cafe" P^eron, boulevard Montmartre. Caf6 Pernon, boulevard Poissoniere. Caf6 Colbert, Galarie Colbert, rue Vivienne. Cafe Cardinal, rue Richelieu, No. 116. Cafe Turc, boulevard du Temple. Cafe d' Or leans, Palais Royal, Galerie Vitree. Cafe de VOpera Comique, Place de la Bourse, No. 29. ENGLISH EATING-HOUSES. Wood's, rue Favart, No. 2. Lucas, rue de la Madeleine, No. 14. Besson, rue Neuve des Capucines, No. 6. John Bull, rue des Pyraniides, No. 2. WINE-MERCHANTS. Be Kersmaker, No. 21, rue Louis le Grand, sole depot of the claret of Messrs. Nathaniel Johnston of Bordeaux. Joubert (A.), Place de la Bourse, No. 33, rue Neuve Vivienne, sole depot in Paris of the claret of Messrs. Barton and Guestier of Bordeaux ; and of the champagne of Messrs. Ruinart of Rheinis. HACKNEYMAN. Tridon, No. 18, rue Neuve des Mathurins. ENGLISH DAIRY AND PROVISION- WAREHOUSE. Henne (H. G.) No. 10, rue du Marche St. Honore ; pure milk, cream, butter, and leas ; York hams, also wines and spirits. INDEX. Page Abattoir de Grenelle . . 34.2 — de Montmartre . . 207 — de Popincourt . .271 — du Pioule . . . i q5 — de Villejuif . . . /j.16 Abattoirs. . , .110 Absorbing Wells . 117,241 Aeademie des Beaux Arts . 67 — des Inscriptions et Belles Lettres . . .66 — des Sciences, Morales et Politiques . . . 6;, — de Tlndustrie Francaise 88 — Francaise . . .66 — deMedecine. . . 68 — Royale de Musique . 4^7 — de Paris . . . 6u — des Sciences. . . 66 Actes . . . .60 Administration of Paris, Civil 43 — Communal and Depart- mental . . . ib — of Customs . . .44 — of Departmental Taxes . ib. — of the Police . . 4^ — of the Post Office. g, 45 — of Public Instruction, etc. 41 — of Roads and PublicWorks ib. Advocates . . 4 2 Agens de Change . .10 Allee des Veuves . 1 85 Ambassadors . . .60 — residences of . . 5 1 3 Anatomy, Cabinets of 380,429,4^0 — Amphitheatre of . . 96 Anatomical Schools, new . 4' 3 Apartments . . 12, 63 Appraisers Aqueducts Aqueduc d'Arcueil — de Belleville. — de Buc — de Ceinture . de Marly . ... — de St. Gervais Arc deTriomphe dela Place du Carrousel. — de l'Etoile . — de St. Denis. — de St. Martin Archbishop's Palace . Archives du Boyaume Arrest for debt Arrival in France, directions upon . at Paris, directions upon Arrondissement, First — Second — Third . — Fourth — Fifth . — Sixth . — Seventh — Eighth — Ninth . — Tenth . — Eleventh — Twelfth Arsenal . Association pour la Propa- gation de la Vaccine — des Jeunes Economes Asylum, Deaf and Dumb . — Lunatic . . \ 17 Page 43 120 ib. 121 462 470 121 I« 188 236 242 3.6 254 1 ib. i45 204 222 228 236 214 253 271 ?9* 322 363 383 289 398 462 526 INDEX. Pas Asylum, Orphan . . 285 Ateliers de Sculpture . 339 Athenee des Arts . , 85 — de iMedecine . . ib. — de Paris . . 83 Auctioneers. . . 43 Avoues . . 4 3 Bagatelle . . . z07 Bains Ambulans . . 123 — Cbinois . . . 2o5 — Racine . . . 3-g — St. Sauveur . . 244 — de Tivoli . . 1 99 — - Turcs . * . 2^5 — Vigier . Balls . .452 — masked . . . 454 Bank of France . 1 01, 236 — Savings. . . 99 Bankers, list of . . 5 16 Barracks . . . 142 Barriers . . . 1 4^ Barriere du Trone . . 282 Bassin de la Villette . 119 Bastringues . . 453 Batbs . ' . .123 Bazars . . . 1 \ 6 Beaujon, Cbapelle . . 193 — Hopital » ib. Benevolent Institutions . g5 — Societies . . 55 Berlines . . • 4 Bibliotheque de l'Arsenal . 290 — de Ste. Genevieve . 38g — de l'lnstitut . . 36o — d'Histoire Naturelle . 4^2 — Mazarine . . 359 — du Boi . . .212 — delaVille . . 268 Bicetre, Hospice de . 4^° Bievre, the \ .32 Bills of exchange . . 61 Births . . .55 Blind, hospital . . 384 — school . . . ib. Boarding-schools . . 521 Boats, steam . . 3, 9 Boeuf Gra*. Bois de Boulogne . — de Roinainville . — de Vincennes . Botanical gallerv . — garden Boulangerie generale Boulevards Bourse, la Bourse, la Petite Bridges Page 431 . 3-3 96 IN, 457 1 Of , 210 . 200 • if British Charitable Fund 97, 5i8 — Free Schools . . 5i8 Budget for 1 835 . . 3; Buildings, public . - 1 38 Bureau de Tlnscription des Ouvriers — des Longitudes . — des Marchands Drapiers. 23a — de Pesage, etc. . 43* 47 Butchers . . * 111 Cabinets of Anatomy 380,429,450 — of Engravings . .218 — of Medals and Antiques . ib. — of Mineralogy . — of Natural History Cabriolets . Cafes Cafe de Tortoni Caisse des Boulangers d'Amortissement 47 6; 423 4^2 8 i3 209 4*2 !02 — de Depots et Consignations ib. — Dipcesaine — d'Epargne — Hypothecate — de Poissy Caleches Canals de St. Denis de St. Martin . — de l'Ourcq Carnival . Carpet-manufactory Carriages, duty on . — hiring . Carriers Carrousel, Place de 9° 10? 1 118 120 ib. 1 1Q 45S 4 23 % 1 54 INDEX. 527 / Page Casernes . . . izj Catacombs . . 4°5 Cathedral of Notre Dame . 3o3 Cattle Market . 462, 476 Cemeteries . .124 — office of . . 274 Cemetery de Ste. Catherine 4*3 — de Montmartre . . 2o5 — du Mont Parnasse . 872 — du Pere La Chaise • 273 — de Vaugirard . . 343 Cercles . . . ^1 Cercle Agricole . . 88 — des Etrangers « . 4^ 2 — Medical de Paris . 85 Chamber of Commerce . 100 — of Deputies, 35 — Palace of the . . . 025 — of Peers, 35— Palace of the . . .366 Champ de Mars . . 34i Champs Elysees . . 184 Chapel, Greek . . 89 Chapelle de Beaujon . iq3 . — Sainte . . . 299 Chapelle Expiatoire . 19B Charges d'Affaires, resi- dences of . . 5i3 Charitable Fund, British 97 Charitable Institutions 92, 141 Chateau d'Eau du Boule- vard de Bondy . . 242 — de la Muette . . 467 — de la Place du Palais Royal . . .176 Chaumiere, la . . ^52 Chronological Table of the Kings of France . 5n Churches . , 88, i36 — Protestant . . 89 — Episcopal British . i98 — the Abbaye aux Bois . 345 «-» of St. Ambroise . 271 — St. Antoine . . 287 — the Assumption . 180 — the Carmelites . .371 — St. Denis . . 293 Page 245 3go 2-26 256 345 3 9 5 228 35 1 2G4 333 3 9 8 2*38 25a 200 3ig 266 200 284 4" 269 345 Church of Ste. Elisabeth . — St. Etienne du Mont . — St. Eustache — St. Francois d'Assise — St. Francois Xavier — Ste. Genevieve . — St. Germain I'Auxerrois — St. Germain des Pres . — St. Gervais . , — des Invalides — St. Jacques du Haut Pas — St. Laurent — St. Leu and St. Gilles , — St. Louis St. Louis en Tile — the Lutherans . — la Madeleine — Ste. Marguerite — St. Medard — St. Merri , . des Missions Etrangeres — St. Nicholas des Champs 2S0 St. Nicholas duChardon- net . . 385 Notre Dame . . 3o3 — Notre Dame des Blancs Manteaux . . ^5g — Notre Dame de Bonne Nouvelle . . 243 Notre Dame de Lorette 207 the Oratoire . . 228 — St. Paul and St. Louis . 262 — Petits Peres . . 223 — St. Philippe . .194 — St. Pierre de Challiot . 188 — St. Pierre du Gros Cail- lou . . . 339 — St. Pioch * » 220 — St. Severin , , 382 the Sorbonne . , 375 — St. Sulpice . . 364 — St. Thomas d'Aquin . 348 — the Val de Grace • 4o9 — St. Valere . 4 338 — St. Vincent de Paule . 207 Tj the Visitation . . 289 Circulating Libraries . *4 528 INDEX. Cirque Olympiquc . 44^ Citadines, etc. . . 8 Civil Administration of Paris 4^ Civil List . . .38 — Rights . . .58 Clergy of France . . 90 — of Paris . . 89 Climate of Paris . . 3o Coches d'Eau . • 9 Coins, French . J 5 — comparative table of . 16 Collection of articulated animals without vertebrae /j^8 — of inarticulated animals without vertebrae . ib. — of Birds . . 4^5 — of Fishes . • 4 2 7 — Geological . . 4 22 — of Mammalia . . 4 2 4 — of Minerals . . 4 2 ^ — of Reptiles . . 4 2 7 Colleges Royal . . 71 College des Anglais . 395 — de Bourbon . . 200 — de Charlemagne . 26? — des Ecossais . . 3< — de France . 71,3! — de Henry IV . . 38c) — des Irlandais . . 394 — de St. Louis . . 374 — de Louis le Grand . 388 — de Montaigu . . 38p — de la Sorbonne . 375 — de Ste. Barbe . — de Stanislas Column de la Halle au Ble — of the Place du Chatelet 1^1 — of the Place Vendome . 17! Combat des Animaux . 4$ Commerce of Paris . 108 Commercial Establishments 100, iod Commissaires de Police — Priseurs Commissions aires . Common Sewers . Companies, Commercial Page Communal Administration 43 ib a35 I i5 116 io3 Concerts — St. Honore Musard du Gymnase Musical — du Jai din Turc Conciergerie, la . Conseil de Salubrite Conservatoire deMusique et de Declamation Lyrique 76,208 de Musique Classique . ~6 — des Arts et Metiers 72, 248 Consuls . . .60 Consumption of Paris . i 0 5 Convents . . • 91 Convent of Panthcmont . 3*47 des Dames Carmelites 371, 400 449 ib. ib. 45o ib. 2 97 47 — of Celestins 90 — dc> Dames de la Visitation 399 — of English Augustin Nuns 3g*4 Conveyances from London Copyright Council of Hospitals — of Ministers — of State Cour Batave . — des Comptes . 41 — des Miracles — Royal e . Conrs la Reine Court of Cassation £Jonrtiers de Commerce Courts of Justice . , Custom-houses Deaf and Dumb Asylum , Deaths Debt, arrest for — imprisonment for Debtors' Prison Degrees, Academical Department, Prefecture of the Departmental Administration ib. Depot des Laines . . /J 17 — de la Prefecture de Po- lice . • • 3oa — des Fourrages . . 283 2 61 93 36 35 25a 302 244 4l 1 85 4o IOI 40 22 3 9 8 70 43 Page Deputies, Chamber of 35, 325 Diligences . . 3 Diorama . . . ^5o Directions to the Traveller previous to departure from England r— upon his arrival in France — upon his arrival in Paris — previous to departure from Paris Directory, Paris . Divine service in English 89, 198 Division of Paris . . 4^ Divorce . . . 67 Drama, origin and progress of, in France . . /J34 Duclos, Ghodruc . Duels . . 61, Duties on articles taken to England Duties on articles imported from England into France Eating-houses Ecole d'Accouchement — d'application d'Etat-Ma- jor . . — d'application des Inge- nieurs-Geographes <— des Arts et Manufactures — - des Beaux Arts — de Chartes — de Commerce . — Gratuite de Dessin — de Droit — de Langues Orientates vivantes . — de Mathematiques et de Dessin . — de Medecine — Militaire — des Mines — de Musique et de Decla mation . — Normale — » de Peinture en Gouleurs vitrifiables . . ^70 — • de Pharmacie . 75, 4 11 index. 529 Page Ecole Pol j technique . 74 — desPonts-et-Chaussees 74,346 — Speciale du Commerce Francnis . . 87 Ecoles d'Equitation . 76 — de Natation . . 1 24 — Normales elementaires . 76 — Primaires . . 77 Ecuries du Roi • • 194 Edifices, public . . i*38 — private . , . i44 Electors and jurors . 4^ English Ambassador . 5i3 — Consul . . 6r — Divine service . 89, 198 — Newspapers . . 5i4 Entrepot des Douanes . 2jr — du GrosCaillou. . 3jS Entreprise des Pompes Fu- nebres . . .125 Entrance duties of Paris . 106 Environs of Paris . . 458 Episcopal church, British . 198 Equestrian performances . 44^ Establishments, principal commercial . . io3 — religious . . 91 — connected with the hos- pitals . . Estaminets (smoking-houses) 1 3 Etablissement en faveur des blesses indigens . 96 — de Filature . . 87 Exchange . . 101, 210 — bills of. . . 61 Executions . • 4°4 Expenses of city of Paris . 1 04 — of population of Paris . ib. Expiatory Chapel . 198 Facultes, les . . 69 Faculty of Law . . ib. — of Letters . . ib. — of Medicine . . ib. — of Sciences . • ib. — of Theology . . ib. Fahrenheit's Scale turned into Reaumur's . . 5i2 45 1 ib. ib. 2 5i3 17G 724 27 i3 4°9 74 ib 75 75,36 . 7 5 . 87 . 7* 38 9 75 38 1 3 79 34o 3 7 3 76 72 4 7 8 530 INDEX. Page Fetes, public . . 455 ■ of Environs . . 5o6 Fiacres . . ,7 Firemen . . .4° Fishing . . .62 Foire St. Laurent . 287 Food of Paris » . io5 Foreign Office . . 204 Foundling Hospital . 4° 2 Fountains . .122 Fountain de Ste. Avoye . 254 — de Bacchus . . 4 12 — de Birague . . 262 — des Capucins . . 180 — des Cannes . . 386 — Sainte Catherine . 286 — de la Croix, du Tiroir . 228 — Dessaix . . 2g5 — - du Diable . . 292 ■ — de l'Echaude . . 260 — de I'Ecole de Medecine 38 1 — Egyptienne . . 3^4 — de l'Elephant , . 287 — St. Germain . . 364 de Crenelle . . 35o — du Gros Caillou . 33g — de la Halle au Rle . 235 — des Innocens . . 233 — des [nvalides . . 33 1 — de Leda . . 372 — de Louis le Grand . 204 — - de Saint Louis . . 292 — de la Place Louvois . 212 — du Marche St. Martin . 247 — de Mars . . 33q — Saint Martin . . 247 — Maubuee . . 270 — de la rue Montmartre . 225 — delaNaiade . . 254 ■ — du Palmier . .232 — des Petits Peres . 224 — de la Place de la Bastille 287 — de la Place de I'Ecole . 23o — de la Place de Francois I. 186 — de la Place St. Michel . 874 — de la Place Palais Royal. 176 ~ de la Points St. Eustache 228 Fountain de Popincour . 271 — de Piichelieu • . 220 — Saint Severin . . 383 — de Tantale . . 228 — de Ven do me - . 247 — de St. Victor . . 432 Franc Etrier . • 7 France, mode of travelling in . . .3,9 — Posting Regulations m . 4 Freemasons . .100 Funerals . . .125 Galignam's Messenger . 212 Gallery, Botanical . . 4^1 — du Due de Dalmatie . 80 — des Plans des Fortresses de France . . 80 — of the Luxembourg . 36g — de M. Sommariva 80, 200 — de M. Sommerard 80, 376 Gambling-Houses . . 4^ 2 GardeMeuble de laCouronne 208 Gardens, public . . — royal . 1 5 1,370, ^q5 — of the Luxembourg . 370 — of the Palais Royal . 174 — of Plants . . 4 T 9 — of the Tuileries . i5i Gare de l'Arsenal . .120 Garrison of Paris . . 3o Gas Light Company • io3 Gaul, Conquest of, by Cesar 1 26 Geographical situation of Paris . . . 3o Glass Coaches . . 33 Glass (Plate) Manufactory . 24 Gobelins, Manufacture des 4 1 Gospel first preached at Paris . . .127 Government Establishments of Paris— Civil, Military, and Judicial . • 35 Greek Chapel . • 8g Grenier d'Abondance, orde —Reserve • - 289 — a Sel . . 288 Guillotine . . 4° 5 INDEX. 531 Page Guinches , . 4§3 Guinguettes . . ib. Gymnase Militaire et Civil . 34^ Hackney Coaches . . 7 Halle au Ble . . 235 — aux Cuirs . . 234 — aux Draps . . a33 — aux Veaux . . 384 — aux Vins . . 433 Historical Notice of Paris . 126 Hopital St. Antoine . 28/j — Beaujon , . iq3 — de la Charite . . 3*5 1 — Clinique de 1'ficole de Medecine . . 38 1 — Cochin . . . 408 — des Enfans maiades . 343 — Leprince . . 339 — St. Louis . . a3n — de Madame Necker . 343 — de la Pitie . . 432 — des Quinze-Vingts . 286 — des Venerie'ns . . 4^8 Militaire de la Garde — Roy ale . . . 33q — de Picpus • . 283 ■ — ' du Val-de-Grace . 4°9 Horse Races . . 4^5 Horses, duty on . 24, 28 Hospices . . 95 Hospice de Bicetre . 4^° — des Enfans-Trouves . l\oi — des Incurables Fernmes . 344 — des Incurables Homines . 238 — de la Pvochefoucauld . 4°5 — des Menages . . 344 — des Orpheiins . . 285 — de la Salpetriere . 4 T ^ — de la Vieillesse . . ib. Hospital, Blind . . 384 — Foundling . . ^02 — Lying-in « . 4°8 Hospitals . . 92 — Bureau for admission in- to the . . 93, 3 18 — Council of . • 93 — Financial condition of . 94 t Page Hotel des Affaires Etran- geres . . . 204 de Mad. Adelaide d'Or- leans . . . 346 • de St. Aignan . . 253 — d'Aumont . . 263 Beaumarchais . . 288 — de Beauveau . . 195 de Biron . . 337 de la Reine Blanche . 379 Borghese . . 198 of the late Duchess of Bourbon . . 346 — Bretonvilliers . . 32i — de Carnavalet . . 261 — Chanisot. . . 319 — de Chatelet . . 33*7 — de Chatillon « ® $45 — de Cluny . « 376 — Colbert. . . 384 — Dieu . . . 3 1 7 — Denon . . . 363 — d'Eckmuhl , . 33 7 — des Fermes . . 236 — desFinances . . 180 — Frascati . . 209 — de Galifet . ' . 347 — deGrammont . . ib. — - d'Hollande . . 2G0 — des Invalides, 329 — Es- planade of the, 33i — Grand front of the, 33 1 — Cour Royal of the, 332 — - Interior of the, ib.— Church of the, 333 — Dome of the, 337 — de Jassaud — - Lambert — de Lamoignon — de la Legion neur — de Longueville — de Luynes — de la Marine — de Meurice — des Monnaies — deMonthoJon d'Hon- 263 320 261 323 176 347 182 i3 356 225 532 INDEX. Page Hotel Montmorency , 209 — de Montmoreney-Laval . 373 — of the late Duchess dowager of Orleans . 347 — d'Orsay . . 346 — d'Osmond . . 200 — des Postes . . 2*5 — de Praslin . . 322 — de la Prefecture de Police 3o2 — de la Reynierc . . 198 — de Richelieu . . 2o5 — de St. Paul . • 291 — de Rohan-Montbazon . 23 1 — de Sons . . 263 — do Sommariva . . 200 — deSnlly . . 291 — of the late Duchess of Savoy . . . 366 — Talleyrand • .181 — de Toulouse . . 366 — de la Tremouilie . 23i — du Timbre . . 204 — du Tresorier . . 3o2 — d'Uzes . . . 225 — de Valentinois . . 347 — de Vendome . .37"^ — deVille . . 266 — Wagram . . 204 Hotels, information con- cerning . . 5 18 — furnished . .12 Households Royal . . 38 Huissiers . . > k' 1 Hydraulic Machines 187, 338, 470 Ida lie . . . Imprimerie Royale . . 257 Infirmerie de Marie Therese 4°4 Infant schools . . 77 Innkeepers . # 62 Inns, French . .12 Institut . . 65, 358 — Historique . . 8^ — des Freres des Ecoles Chretiennes . . 90 Institution pour les Filles delaissees . . 98 — des Jeunes Aveugles 384 Page Institution de Ste. Perine . 188 — des Sourds et Muets . 398 Institutions . . 76 — charitable . 92, 95, \(\\ — scientific and literary . 65 Insurance Companies, fire and life . . io3 Interpreters . i5 Islands of Paris. . 32, $ig James II., monument of . 393 Jardin Botanique de l'Ecole- de Medecine — de la Chaumiere — des Plantes — de Tivoli — de Trianon — Turc Jeux de Paume Journals, English — French . Joutes sur Teau Juges de Paix Jurors and Elector Justice, Courts of — Palais de Kings of France, chronolo- gical table of King's Councils — Household Lacquais de place Lateran, Tour de St. Jean dc Lavoir, public Law, Faculty of — School of Laws affecting British Presi- dents Lease, form of a Legion d'Honneur, Order of the . — Hotel de la Letters Libraries, circulating — public . Literary Institutions — Societies — Livre des Postes 373 /|D2 4l9 45i 452 45o 45i 5 14 5i5 456 42 46 4? 296 5n 35 38 38 7 4,7 6q ^9 55 64 38 323 1 1 '4 81 m 83 INDEX. 533 Pa ge Lodgings in Paris . .12 Longchamps . . 186 Longitudes, Bureau des . 67 Looking-Glass Manufactory 243 Louvre, Palace of the . i56 — attack of, in July, i83o . i58 — Fronts of the . . ib. — Court of the . .160 — Interior of the . .161 — Musee des Antiques . i63 — Musee des Dessins . 167 — Musee Grec et Egyptien 164 — Musee de la Marine . 168 — - Musee des Sculptures de la Renaissance . . ib. — Musee des Tableaux . 162 Lunatic hospitals . 4*7; 4^ 2 Lutetia . . .126 Luxembourg, Palace of the 366 — Interior of the . . 368 — Gallery of the . . 36g — Garden of the . . 370 — le Petit . , 371 Luxor, Obelisk of . i83 Lutheran Church, the . 266 Lying-in Hospital . . 4°$ Madeleine, la . . 200 Mairies . . . 4^ Maison d'Accouchement . 4°$ — Royale de Charenton . 4^3 — de la Couronne d'Or . 23 — d'Enghien . . 282 ~- pour 1' Extinction de la Mendicite . . 4 12 — du Noviciat des Religi- euses Hospitalieres . 345 — Royale de St, Denis . 7: — - St. Foix . . . 200 — de Francois I. . . 186 — duChanoine Fulbert . 3o3 — de la Reine Blanche . — de St. Louis . . ib. — Centrale de Nourrices . 96 — de Refuge pour les Jeunes Prisonniers ♦ 3?4 — de Retraite . . 4°5 Royale deS ante . 23? | Maison Scipion Maisons de Santes MallePostes Manufactory of Carpets — of Porcelain — of Tapestry Manufactures des Glaces . — des Gobelins — de la Savonnerie — des Tabacs Manufactures of Paris Marche aux Arbustes — des Augustins — Beauveau — au Beurre — des Rlancs Manteaux — des Carmes — aux Chevaux — aux Fleurs — aux Fourrages . — au Fromage — aux Fruits (the Maille) . — St. Germain — des Herboristes — St. Honore — des lnnocens — St. Jacques de la Bou- cherie . — St. Jean — St. Joseph — St. Martin — aux OEufs — aux Ognons — au Pain . — au Poisson — aux Pommes de Teire . — des Prouvaires « — du Route a o — du Vieux Lings — h la Volaille Market, Cattle Markets Marriages . . 56 Masked Balls . . 4^4 Mat de Cocagne . . 45°* Measures, French and Eng- lish compared . 17, 2 1 45, Page 4i3 1 4i3 476 4r3 243 4i3 |i5 338 107 302 382 285 234 260 386 416 302 282 234 384 363 233 204 232 252 266 225 247 234 233 234 ib. 233 23/ f □ J 94 . d45 . 382 462, 4;6 • I0 9 534 Medicine, Faculty of . 69 — School of . . 379 Menagerie . . 420 MessageriesRoyales . 224 — de Laffitte et Co. . 228 Meurice's Hotel . . i3 Military Government of Pa- ris . . 39 Minister of Finance . 36 — for Foreign Affairs . ib. — of the Interior . . 37 — of Justice and Public Worship. . . ib, — of the Marine and Colo- nies . . .36 — of Public Instruction . 3n — of War 4 . 36 — of Commerce and Public Works . . 3- — Residence of Foreign . 5i3 Ministers, Council of . 36 Mint . . .356 Monetary System . . i5 Mont de Piete . 99, a5q Montfaueon, Boyauteriede 24o Monument of James II. . 393 Morgue, la . 3 18 Mouceaux, Pare de . 19^ Municipal Guard . . 40 Musee des Antiques . i63 — d'Artillerie . . 349 — Dupuytren • - 38 1 — des Dessins . . 167 — Grec et Egyptien . 164 — d'Histoire Naturelle . £io — de la Marine . .168 — des Sculptures de la Re- naissance . . 168 — du Luxembourg . 365 — des Monumens Francais . 36 1 — Royal . . .161 — des Tableaux • . 162 Museums r . 79 Natation, Ecoles de . National Guard . 39, 62 Natural History, Cabinet of 4 22 — Museum of . ♦ Navy Office . . .36 Newspapers, list of . 5i4 Notice of Paris, Historical . 126 Notaries . . . fa Notre-Dame, Cathedral of 3o3 Nouvelle Athenes, la . 207 Nursery grounds . 194, 5g3 Nurses, Office for obtaining 96 Observatoire * . 4°o Obelisk from Luxor . i83 Octroi duties of Paris . 106 Odeon, the . . 44 1 Offices of Ambassadors, etc. 5i3 Offices of the Ministers . 36 Olympic Circus . . 44^ Ombres Chinoises . • 44$ Omnibus . . 9 Opera, Comic . . /Lfa — French . . .438 — Italian . . . 4^9 Oratoire, the . . 22B Orphan Asvlum . . 285 Ourcq, Canal de V . 1 19 Ouvroirs . . • 77 Packets, time of sailing . 3 Pagan Worship at Paris . 126 Paintings, Exhibition of 80, 200, 369, 376. Palace of the Chamber of Deputies . . . 325 — of the Chamber of Peers 366 — of the Institute . 358 — of the Louvre . . i56 — of the Luxembourg . 366 — of the Tuileries . . i |5 Palaces, Royal and other . i35 Palais, Archiepiscopal . 3i6 — Bourbon, 3a5— Place du 3a8 — Cardinal . . 257 — de I'Elysee Bourbon . 195 — de Justice . , 296 — du Quai d'Orsay . 3aa — Royal, 169— Garden and Galleries of the , ,171 Interior of the . .172 Place du . .176 — du Temple . . 24** 535 Palais des f hermes Panorama . Pantheon . Pare de Mouceaux . Parcels . • Paris, arrival at — Environs of — Historical Notice of — present State of — Climate of — Situation of — Rivers of — Islands of — Taxes of Page ♦ ^77 . 45o , 3 9 5 • 194 . 3 458 . 126 . 3o . ib. . 3i . 32 . io3 — Octroi and Entrance Du- ties of . .106 — Population of . .33 — Expense of the Popula- tion of . . .104 — Consumption of . io5 Police of . . 46 — Prisons of . . 4$ — Public Institutions of . 65 — Churches of .88 — Charitable Institutions of 92 — Commercial Establish- ments of . . ioo — Division of . 4^ — Military Government of 3c)i — Civil Administration of (\S \ — Commerce of . . ic8| — Manufactures of . 107 — Receipts of . .104 — Expenses of . . ib. — Streets of . .112 — Directory . . 5i3 Parvis de Notre Dame . 3o5 Passages . . .= 116 Passage Choiseul . . 20^ — des Panoramas . 210 — Vero Dodat . . 228 Passports . . 47> 3° 2 Peers, Chamber of . 366 Pensions . . 76 Pepiniere du Luxembourg 37 t Pere La Chaise, Cemetery of 273 Pharmacte Centrale gt), 384 Page Physical Statistics . . n 2 Pigeon-shooting . . 45 1 Places of Public Amusement 434 Places . . . 114 Place de la Bastille . 287 — Beauveau . . jg5 — du Carrousel, i54 — Tri- umphal Arch of the . i5£ — du Chatelet . . 23 1 — Dauphine . . 29D — de PEcole . . 2S0 — de Greve . . 26'g — Louis XV., or, de la Con- corde, 181 — Historical Recollections of . 183 — de Notre Dame . 3o5 — du Palais Bourbon . 3iS — du Palais de Justice . 3o2 — du Palais Royal . 176 — Royale . . . 292 — St. Sulpice „ . 3c6 — Vendome, 177 — Column of the . . .178 — des Victoires . . 223 Plants, Garden of . 4 1 9 Plate Glass Manufactory . Police, Commissaires de . 47 — Prefecture de . ^6, 3w2 Pompe du Pont Notre Dame 3o3 — de la Samaritaine . 29^ Pompe a feu de Chaillot . 187 — du Gros Caillou . 338 Pompes Funebres, Entre- prisedes . .125 Pont de l'Allee d'Antin, or, des Invalides . . 338 — de l'Archeveche . 3 16 — des Arts . • 36o — d'Arcole . . 269 — d'Austerlitz . ' 4*7 — de Bercy, or, dela Gare 283 — du Carrousel . . 363 — au Change . . 3o2 — St. Charles . . 3»7 — de Li Cite . . 3 19 — au Double • . 3i 1 — tie. Jena • . 34 1 530 INDEX. Page Pont de Grammont . 2gi — Louis Philippe . . 3 19 — Louis XVI., or, dela Con- corde . . . 3^4 • — Marie . . . 3 19 — St. Michel . . 3 18 — Neuf . . .293 — Notre Dame . . 3o3 ►-Petit . . . 3i8 — Pioyal . . • 322 — de la Tournelle . 32 1 Population of Paris . 33 Porcelain Manufactory . ^6 Ports of Paris . .111 Port d' Amies . . 62 Porte St. Denis . . 236 — St. Martin . . 242 Post Office 9,225 Post Horses, Office for 45> 20 ^ Poste, Petite . . 10 Posting in France . • 4 Prado, le . . 453 Pre Saint Gervais . . 458 Prefecture of Department, /fi «— of Police . 4^> 3° 2 prb ting-Office, Royal . 257 Prisons . . .4^ Prison de PAbbaye . 54 — for Debtors . . 5i r— de la Conciergerie . 54 — pour les Jeunes Detenus 53 — de la Force . • 5o — de Saint Lazare . 5i — de Sainte Pelagie . 5i — de la Prefecture de Police 54 — de la Pioquette . . 5s Privy Council . . 35 Promenades . . 456 Protestant Churches . 8p Public Amusement, Places of 434 — Buildings . . i38 — Institutions , . 65 — Libraries • . 81 — Fetes . . .455 Quartier de Francois I. • 186 Ouays . . , 117 Qaiiize Vingts, Hdnitai des 286 Page Races, Horse . . 455 Rail-roads . .118 Ranelagh . . 44^» 457 Reading-Rooms . • *4 Reaumur's Scale turned in- to Fahrenheit's . . 5 12 Receipts of city of Paris . 104 Regulations, Posting . 5 Religious Edifices and Esta- blishments . . 88 Rent, Receipt for . . 64 Restaurateurs . . i3 Revenues of Paris . io3 Reviews, Military . 454 — Literary . . 5 16 Riding Schools . . 76 Rights, Civil . . 58 Rivers of Paris . . 3r Routes from coast to Paris . 507 — from Calais, through Abbeville and Beauvais ib. — from Calais, through St. Omer and Amiens . ib. — from Ostend, through Lille . . . 5o8 — from Dieppe, through Rouen and Pontoise 5og — from Havre, through Rouen and St. Germain ib. Sainte Chapelle . . 299 Salles d'Asile . . 77 Salle de Menus Plaisirs . 208 Salons de Figures • 45o Salpetriere, Hospice de la 4*6 Sapeurs Pompiers • 4° Savings' Bank . ♦ 99 Savonnerie, la . • 4*5 School, Blind . . 384 — Deaf and Dumb • 3 9 8 — of Law . . • 389 — of Medicine . • 379 Schools, Boarding 76, and see Paris Directory . 021 — Adult , . 77 — Charity . . ib. — Infant . . }k- — Special • • 7^ INDEX. 537 Page Science, Faculty of . 69 Scientific Institutions . 65 Secours aux Noyes, etc. . 4§ — a domicile . . 97 Seine, the river . . 3i Seminaire du St. Esprit 90, 3q5 — de St. Nicholas du Char- donnet . „ 385 — deslrlandais t . . 394 — des Missions Etrangeres 90 — Petit . — de Saint Sulpice Servants . Sewers, Common , Shooting • Silos . , Situation of Paris . Skaiting Slaughter-Houses , Smoking-Houses Snuff-Manufactory Social Statistics Societe d'Agriculture — d' Agronomic pratique . — d'Amelioration des Laines — pour P Amelioration des Prisons . — des Amis des Arts — des Antiquaires — Asiatique — Biblique Protestante — des Bibliophiles — Brezin . — Catholique des bons Livres . — deChimie Medicale — d'Economie domestique — pour rEncouragement de la Gravnre — des Enfans d'Apollon . — des Enfans, en faveur des Vieillards — Entomologique de France — des Etablissemens cha- ritables — pour le soulagement et la delivrance des Prisonniers 55 b. . ib. i5, 63 . 116 62,45i . 488 . 3o . 456 .110 . i3 108, 338 . io3 87 55 85 83 84 9' 100 Qo 86 ib. 85 86 83 466 Page Societe pour Pencouragement de Pindustrie nationale . 87 — de Geographie . . 84 — Geologique de France . 83 — Grammatical . 84 — Helvetique deBienfaisance 98 — d'Histoire Naturelle . 83 — de PHistoire de France . 84 — d'Horticulture . 87 — pour PInsttuction ele- mentaire . . 86 — Israelite des Amis du travail . . .98 — Lyriquc des Soupers da Mom us . . .86 — Maternelle . . 96 — de la Morale Chretien nc 91 — de Medecine de Paris . &6 t? de Medecine Fraticfae . ib. — Medico Philantropique . ib. — Medico Pratique . ib. — des Methodes d'Ensei- gnement , • 85 — pour le Patronage des Jeunes Liberes , .55 — generale des Naufrages 88 — generale de Prevoyance 97 — de Pharmacie . . 86 — Philantropique . 97 — Philoinatique . • 83 — Philotechnique . „ 81 — Phienologique . • 86 — Protestante de Secours mutuels . . 98 — des Progres Agricoles . 8*S — de la Providence . 97 — des Salies d'Asyle pour PEnfance . . 77 — des Sciences Naturelles de France . . 83 — des Sciences Physiques, etc. . . . »l>. de Secours mutuels entre Ouvriers • .too — Statistique . . 84 — des Traites Beligieux . 9i -^Universellede Civilisation 84 538 INDEX. Page 55 83 Societies, Benevolent — Scientific, Literary, etc. Sceurs de la Charite Sorbonne, the Stables, the King's — the Duke of Orleans' . Stage Coaches, etc. Stamp Office State, Council of . Statistics of Paris . Statue of Henry IV. — of Louis XIV. . — of Louis XIII. . Steam Boats . — Engines Streets of Paris . .112 Suspension-bridges 269, -283, 3ig, and 338 3 7 5 1 94 1 95 2,7 46 35 3o 223 292 3," 9 1 87 Swimming Schools Synagogues, Jewish Ta?jle of French coin re duced to English — of Posting Charges Tapestry Manufactory Tariff of the Octroi and En trance Duties of Paris Taxes of Paris Temple, Couvent du — Palais du Tennis Courts Theatres Theatre de l'Ambigu Co snique — de l'Academie Royale d Musique • Acrobate de Mme. Saqui 448 449 44« 446 447 440 441 4*8 446 449 443 4f 439 — de Belleville — de M. Comte . — Cirque Olympique — des Folies Dramaticmes — Francais — Francais (second) — Funambules — de la Gaite — Grenelle — Gymnase Dramatique — Gymnase des Enfans — - ies Italians 124 89 16 6 4i3 106 io3 246 ib. 45 r 434 445 438 Theatre du Luxembourg — de Montmartre — de Mont Parnasse — de l'Odeon — de TOpera Comique — du Palais Royal — de la Porte St. Antoine — de la Porte St. Martin • — du Pantheon — du Petit Lazari — de Ranelagh — Seraphin — des Varietes — • du Vaudeville Ventadour — de la Banlieue de Paris Thermes, Palais des Timbre Pioyal Tour de St. Jean de Lateran 387 Page 448 |4,i ffi 44? M ffi 448 449 44» 4;4 ib. 443 4,49 46 St. Jacques de laBoucheri Tradesmen, list of Tivoli d'Hiver — Jardin de Traiteurs . Trianon, Jardin de — Ralde . Travelling in France Treasury, Royal . Tribunals Tribunal de Commerce — of Municipal Police — de Premiere Instance Tribunaux de Paix Triumphal Arches i54, 188, 236, 242 — Column Troops, French Tuileries, Palace of the — Court of the — Galleries of the — Garden of the . — Interior of the — Historical Recollections of the . University of France Vaccination, gratuitous Val de Grace, Church of the 4.09 — Hospital of the . . ib. ie 25 1 520 453 45 r i3 452 453 3,9 18G 4o t ib. a 42 158 39 145 i53 i46 i5i 148 j 47 68 97 INDEX, Page Vehicles, public . . 7 Veterinary School . 458 Voitures . 7 Voituriers • * ib. Wages in Paris . . 1 08 Walks, public . . 456 Water, supply of . .118 — Establishment for purifi- cation of . • 1^3 539 Pag« Wax-Work , . 45^ Weights, French and Eng- lish compared . ?7> 21 Wharfs . . . 1 1 1 Wills . . .5 7 Witnesses . .61 Workhouse . . 3go Work Societies . . 99 PLACES MEMORABLE FOR SCENES OF POPULAR DISTURB- ANCE, etc., DURING THE REVOLUTIONS OF 1792 and 1830. Palace of the Tuileries, page 147— Palace of the Louvre, i58 Palace of the Palais Royal, 171 — Palace of the Elysee Bourbon, 196— Corner of rues St. Honore and Piohan, 177 — Place de la Concorde, 182— Place du Carrousel, i54 — Church of Sr. Roch ; 220— Place des Victoires, 223 — St. Germain l'Auxerrois, 229— Porte St. Denis, 237— Marche des Innocents, 232— Rue Trans - nonain, 253— Temple, 246— Hotel de Ville, 268 — Pont d'Arcole, 269— Church of St. Merri, 270 — Place de la Bastille, 287 — Notre Dame, 3o8, 3i5 — Palais de Justice, 296— Archbishop's Palace, 3 t6— Palais Bourbon, 325— Prison de PAbbaye, 355— Champ de Mars, 341— Rue de Babylone (barrack), 346— Pont des Arts, 36o — Convent des Dames Carmelites, 071 — Tomb of the Victims, j r PLACES OF HISTORICAL NOTE. Spot where the Due de Berry was assassinated, 212— House where Corneille died, 222 — Rue Bethizy, where Coligny was mas- sacred, 23 1 — Rue de la Ferronerie, where Henri IV. was mur- dered, 232 — House where Moliere was born, 234— House of Fieschi and the Infernal Machine, 245 — Street where the Con- netable Clisson was waylaid, 261— Tomb of Lafayette, 283 — Burial- place of Boileau,3oT , 355 — Hotel where Voltaire died* 363 — Burial- place of James II., 4°°— Spot where Marshal Ney was shot, 402. 540 INDEX. ENVIRONS OF PARIS. Alfort — the Veterinary School Antony Arcueil — Aqueduc of Argenteuil Arnouville Auteuil Bagatelle . Bagneux . Bagnolet . » Belleville . Belleville, Aqueduct of Bellevue Bercy Bicetre Bondy Bourg la Reine Buc Chantilly • • Charenton Chatillon . Chatenay . Choisy-le-Roi Cloud, St. . Compiegne Corbeil Denis, St. Enghien-les-Bains Ermenonville , Fontainebleau • Fontenay-sous-Rois Fontenay-aux-Roscs Franconville Germain-en-Laye, St. Grenelle . • Issy Ivry Malm a i son Mande,St. Page . 458 of ib. . 459 . ib. . 120 • 459 . ib. . ib. . A5 7 . 460 . ib. . ib. . 121 . 460 . ib. . ib. . 462 « ib. . 4^2 - ib. . 463 . M • ib. . ib. •Ail . ib. . 483 . 465 . 466 . ib . 468 . ib. . ib. . 486 • 4^9 ib.' . ib. . 488 Marly Maur, St. . Meudon Mont Galvaire Montmartre Montmorency Mortefontaine Nanterre . Neuilly Nogent-sur-Marne Ouen, St, . Passy Poissy Pont de St. Maur Pre Si. Gervais Aqueduct of Raincy Bambouillet Ranelagh . Reuil Romainville Rosney St. Cloud . -Cyr . — Denis . — Germain-en-Layc — Gervais, Pre — Mande . — Maur . — Ouen Sceaux Sevres, 476, Porcelain nufactory of Suresnes . Trianon Grand — Petit . Vangirard Versailles • Vincennes • OF THE STREETS, SQUARES, etc. IN PARIS. EXPLANATION. The capital letter and figure placed after the name of the street indicates the part of the Map in which it is found; for exam- ple, if you wish to find rue Biron , D. 6. draw your finger down under the letter D, from the top of the Map, till it arrives opposite the figure 6, between the lines of which is rue Biron. The figure placed before the name of a street indicates that it is traced in the Map , but its name could not be given for want of room. A star added to the letter and figure (*) denotes that, on account of the small size of the Map, there is neither name nor trace of it given. Abattoirs (des), E. i. Abbnye (de I'), D. 4- 1 Abbaye (place de 1') D. 4- Abbaye-St-Martin (pas- sage de I'), E. 3. * Acacias (des), B. 5. C. 4- Aguesseau (d'), C. 2. 2 Aguesseau (marcbe et pas- sage d'), pres la Made- leine, C. 2. Aiguillerie (de l'j, E. 3. Albouy, F. 2. Albret (Cours d'), rue des 7 Voies, E. 5.* Alger (d'), C. D. 3. Alexandre (Saint-), enclos de la Trinite, E. 3. * Aligre (d*), G. 4- 5. Aligre (passage d'), R. Baillet, D. 3. Amandiers — Popincourt (des), G. 3. Amandiers (des), Sainte- Genevieve, E. 5. Amandiers (barriere des), G. 3. AmbiguComique (thea- tre), boulevard St-Mar- tin. E. 2. Amboise (d'), Richelieu, D. 2. 3 Amboise (impasse), place Maubert, E. 4. Ambroise Parre, D. 2. Ambroise (St-), G. 3. Amelie, B. 3. Amelot, F. 3. 4. Amsterdam (d'), C. i. Anastase (St-), F. 3. Ancien chemin de Versail- les (de 1') , A. 2. « Ancien Grand-Cerf (pas- sage de 1'), E- 3. Ancienne Comedie (de 1'), D. 4- Ancre - Royale ( passage de 1'), E. 3. Andre (Snint-), H. 3. voy. Rue de la Roquette. Andre-des-Arts (St-) D. 4- Andre-des-Arts place St-) D. 4. Angivilliers (d'), D.3. Anglade (de 1'), D. 3. Anglais (des), E. 4. 4 Anglais (impassedes), rue Beaubourg , E'. 3. Anglaises fdes) , E. 6. Angouleme (d'), F. 3. 5 Angouleme ( place d' ) , faubourg du Temple , pres le boulevard, F. 3. Angouleme - St- Honore, B. 2. Anjou - St -Honore ( d' ), G. 2. Anjou(d'), auMarais, F.3. Anjou ( d' ) , Dauphine, b. 4. Anjou (quai d') , E. F. 4- Anne (Ste-), St-Honore, D. 2. 3. Anne (Ste-), quai des Or- fevres , D. E. 4. Antin fd') , I). 2 . Antin (alleed') , B. 2 3. Antcine (St-) , E. F. 4. Antoine (place St-), E. F. 4. Antoine (boulevard St-), F. 3. 4. Antoine (du faubourg- St-), F. G. H. 4. Apolline (Ste-) , E. 2. Apport- Paris (place del'), St -Denis - au-Chatelet, E. 3. * Arbalete (de I'), E. 5. Arbre-Sec (del'), D. 3. 4 Arcade (de 1'), C. 2. " Arcbe-Marion (de 1'), pres le Pout-Neuf, D. 3. ' Arcbe-Pepin , idem. E. 3. Arcbevecbe (quai de I') , E. 4- Arcbevecbe ( pont de 1' ), E. 4. A rcbe-St-Pierre (passage), pres le Pont-lNeuf, E. 3.* Arcis (des), E. 3. Arcole (pont d'), E. 4- Arcole (rue d'), E. 4- Arcueil (barriered'), D. 6. 8 Argenson ( impasse d' ) , "Vieille rue du Temple, E. 4- Argenteuil (d'), D. 3. Argenteuil ( impasse d'), t. 2. 3. Ariane (place d'), Halle au Poisson , E. 3. * Arras (d'), E. 5. Arsenal (de 1'), voy. de Sully, F. 4- Arsenal (cour et passage de 1' ) , F. 4. voy. de l'Orme. Artois(d'), v. Laffitte, D.2 9 Arts (dps) , enclos de la Trinite , E. 3. Assas (d') . C. 4-- Astorg (d'), C. 2. lOAubert [ passage) , St-De- nis , E. 2. Aubry-le-Boucher, E 3. 11 Audrdas(impassed'),E.6. 12 Audriettes (des), E. 4- Augustins ( quai des), Mar- che a la Volaille, D. 4 1ST OF THE STREETS , Aumaire, E. 3. 13 Aumaire (passage), E. 3. 14 Aumont (impasse d'), rue de l'Hofel-de-Ville, E. 4. Austerlitz (quaid'), F.5.6. Austerlitz (pont d'), F. . r >. Aunay (barriere d'), H 3. Aval (d') , F. 4- Avenues (voir cliaq. nom). Aveugles (des) , voy. du Petit-Bourbon, D. 4. Aveugles travailleurs (in- stitution des) , E. 4. 5. Avignon (d'), E. 3. Avoye (Ste-) , E. 3. Babille , D. 3. 1 5 Babillards (impasse des), porte St-Denis, E. 2. Babylone (de), C. 4. Bac (du), C. 3. 4. Bagneux (de), G. 5. Bail let, Arbre-Sec, E 3. Bailleul , E. 3. Baillif, D. 3. Baillv, enclos St-Martin , E/3. Ballets (des), F. 4. 16 Bains ( Passage des) , en face la rue Pavee, F. 4. Banque de France, D. 3. Banquier (du), E. 6. Barbe (Ste-), E. 2. Barbette, F. 3. Barre-du-Bec, E. 3. Barillerie (de la), E. 4. Barnabites (cour des), Pa- lais-de-Justice , E. l\. Barouillere (de la), C. 5. Barres (des) , quai de la Greve, E 4- Barres (des), F. 4- Barriere des Gobelins (de la), E. F. 6. Barriere Poissonniere (de la), voy. du Nord. Barriere St-Denis (de la), E. 1. Bartbelemy, B. 5. Basfour-St-Denis (impas- se) , E. 3. Basfroid, G. 4. Basville, cour du Harlay, au Palais , D. 4. (Pas- sage). * Basse-Porle St'Dcnis, voy. boulevard Bonne-Nou- velle, E. 2. Basse St-Pierre, a Cbaillot, A. 3. Basse-du-Rempart, C. D. 2. Basse - des -Ursins , Cite, E. 4- Bassins (des) , ou Reser- voirs, barrieres , A. 2. Bastille (place de la), F.*4. Batailles (des), A. 3. I7Bjtave (cour et passage), E. 3. Battoir-St-Andre (du) D.4. Battoir (du) , St -Victor, E. 5. Baudin (impasse), C. 2. 18 Baudoyer (place), E. 4. Bayard, A. 4 Bayard, ville de Fran- cois I er , B. 2 3. Beaubourg, E. 3. Beaudoirie (impasse de la) rue Beaubourg, E. 3. * Beauce (de), F. 3. 19 Beaufort ( passage et im- passe), E. 3. Beauharnais (f oy. Avenue Parmentier), G.3. Beaujolois , Palais-Royal (Passage), D. 3. Beaujolois, au Marais,F.3. 20 Beaujolois , St - Honore , D. 3. Beaune (de), C. D. 3. Beauregard , E. 2. Beauregard (ruelle), D. 1. Beaurepaire , E. 3. Beautreillis (de), F. 4. Beauveau ( place ) , fau- bourg St-Honore, C. 2. Beauveau (de) , faubourg St-Antoine , G. '\. 5. Beauveau (marcbe) , fau- bourg St-Antoine, G. 4' Beauvilliers (passage de) , rue Richelieu , D. 3. * Beaux-Arts (des), D. 4- Bel-Air (aven. du), H. 5. Bellart , B. 5. Belle-Chasse (de), C. 3. 4. Eellefond (de), E. 1. Belleville (barriere), G. 2. Bellievre , F. 6 Benoit(St-), faubourg St- Gerinain , D. 4- Benoit ( carrefour St- ) , SQUARES, ETC. IN PARIS. 3 pres la rue Taranne , I). 4-* Benoit (St-) , enclos St- Martin, E- 3. * 21 Benoit ( passage et place St-) ,~St-Jacqnes, E. 4- 22 Benoit ( passage St- ) , place de l'Abbaye-St- Germain , D. 4- Benoit (impasse St- ) > rue ties Arcis , E. 3. * Bercy (de) , au Mara is , Marche St-Jean , E. 4- Bercy (de), faubourg- St- Antoine, F. 4- & • G. 5. Bercy (barriere de), G. 5. Bercy (pont de) , G. 6. Bergere , D. E. 2. Bergere (cite), D. E. 2. Berlin (de), C. 1. Bernard (St-), G. 4- Bernard (impasse St-), St-Antoine , G. 4- Bernard (St-), quai et port auVin, vojr. quai de la Rapee, F. G. 5. Bernardins (des), E. 4- Bernardins ( passage et cloitre), E. 4. Berry (de), F. 3. Bertaud (impasse) , rue Beauboui g , E. 3. Bertin-Poiree, E. 3. Betizy, D. E. 3. Bethune (quai), E. F. 4. Beuriere, D. 4- Bibliotheque (dela), D. 3. Bicbat , F. 2. Biches (du pont aux), St- Marcel , E. 5. Biches (du pont aux), St- Martin , E. 2. Biches (du pont aux), im- passe, E. 2. Bienfaisance (de la) B.C.i. Bievre (de), E. 4. 23 Bievre (de) , pont , quai I'Hopital , F. 5. 24 Billard (passage du), E. 4. (du Marche-Neuf a la rue de la Calandre). Billettes (des), E 3. Billy (quai de), voy. De- billy, A. 3. 25 Biragues (place et fon- taine de), F. 4- Biron, D. 6. Bizet, A. 2. 3. B. 3. Bizet (impasse), C. 1. 2. Blanche , I). 1. Blanche (barriere), D. 1. Blanchisseuses (des), voy. Bizet, A. 2. 3. B. 3. Blanchisseuses ( impasse des), A. 2. 3. B. 2. Blancs-Manteaux (des), E. 3. Blancs-Manteaux (marche des) , F. 3. Ble (port au), E. 4« Bleue, E. 1. 2. Bochart de Sarron, D. t. 26 Bceuf (impasse du ) , rue Neuve-St-Merri , E. 3. Boeufs (impasse des), mon- tagne Ste - Genevieve , E. 4- Bois-de-Boulogne (passage du), porteSl-Denis, E- 2. Bon (St-), E. 3. Bon-Puits (du), E. 4 5. 27 Bon-Puits (impasse du ), E. 5 , rue Travertine. Bondy (de), E. F. 2. Bonne-Foi (passage) , au Caire, E. 2. * Bonne Graine (passage de la) , G. 4- Bonne - Nouvelle (boule- vard) , E. 2. Bons-Eufants (des), D. 3. 28 Bons-Enfants (passag.des) Palais-Royal, D. 3. Bons<-Hoiiun.es, a Passy, A. 3. 29Borda, enclos St-Martiu, E. 3. Bordeaux (de), Halle aux vins, E. 5. 30Bossuet (de), E. 4. Bossuet (place de) ; faub. Poissonniere, E. 1. voy. La Fayette. Boucher, D. 3. Boucherat (de), F. 3. 31 Boucherat (carrefour de), F. 3. Boucherie -des - Invalides (de la), B. 3. Boucheries (des), fau- bourg St-Germain D. 4- Boucheries-Saint- Honore (des), (voir Jeanisson). Boudreau, C. 2. Boulainvillicrs (marche), rue du Bac, C. 3. Boulangers (des), E. 5. Boule-Blanche ( passage de la) , faubourg St- Antoine, F. G. 4- * Boule-Rouge (de la), D. E. 2. Boule-Rouge (passage de la), faub. Monlmartre, D. 2. Boulets (des), G. H. 4. Bouioi (du), D. 3. Bouquet des champs, A. 3. Bouquet de Longchamps , A. 3. Bourbe (de la), D. 5. Bourbon, voy. de Lille. 32 Bourbon-le-Chateau, D. 4- Bourbon-Villeneuve (de), E. 2. Bourbon (quai), E. \. Bouidaloue, 1). 1. Bourdon (boulevard) F. 4. Bourdonnais (des), E. 3. 33 Bourdonnais(impasse des) E. 3. Bourdonnaye (la), B. 4- Bourdonnaye (avenue de la), A 3. B. 4- Bourg-l'Abbe, E. 3. Bourg-l'Abbe (passage), E. 3. Bourgogne (de), C. 3. 4- Bourgogne (de), Halle aux Vins, E. F. 5. Bourguignons (des), D. 5. E. 6. Bourse (de la), D. 2. Bourtibourg, E. 3. 4- Boutebrie,' E. 4- Bouteille (impasse de la), rue Montorgueil, E. 3.* 34Bouvart (impasse), pres la place Cambrai, E. 4* Boyauterie (de la), voy. la Butte Chaumout, F. 1. Boyauterie (barriere de la),F. 1. Brady (passage), faub. St-Denis, E. 2. Braque (de), E. 3. Brasserie (impasse de la), cour St-Guillaume, D. 3. Brave(du), voy. Pierre Le- F. 2. Breda, D. 1. Bretagne (de), F. 3. 35 Breteuil (de), enclos St- Martin, E. 3. Breteuil (place), B. 5. Breteuil (avenue de), B. 4. 5. Bretonvilliers, E. F. 4- Briare (impasse), I), i. Briseiniche , E. 3. Brodeurs (des), C. 4- Bruant, F. 6. Bruxelles (de), C. i. Biicherie (de la), E. 4. Buffault, D. i.2. Buffon, E. F. 5. Buisson-St-Louis (du), F. G. 2. Bussy (de), D. 4. 36 Bussy (carrefour de), D.4. Ruttes (des), H. 5. Butte Cbauinont (de la), F. 1. Buvette-Champetre(ruelle de la), B. 2. Byron (avenue lord), A. B. 2. Cadet, D. 2. Cadet (place), D, 1. Cadran (du), E. 1. 2. Cafarelli, au Temple, voy. de la Rotonde, F. 3. Cafe-de-Foi (passage du), Palais-Royal, D. 3. * Cafe-de-Malte (passage du), porte et boulevard Saint-Martin, E. 2. * Cafe-du-Mont - Parnasse, quai de l'Ecole, pres le Pont-Neuf, D. 3.* Caire (du), E. 2. Caire (place et passage du) ou Foire, E. 2. Calandre (de la), E. 4- Campagne Premiere, D.5. Canal St - Martin (du), F. 1. Cambrai (place), E. 4- Canettes (des), D. 4. 37 Canivet (du), pres St- Sulpice, D. 4- Capreau, aVaugirard, B.5. Capucins (rue et place des), D. 5. 6. Capucines(bou!evard des) C. D. 2. 1ST OF THE STREETS, 38Cardinale, pres de l'Ab- baye, D. 4- Careine-Prenant, F. 2. 39 Cargaisons (des), E. 4- Cargaisons (impasse des), idem, E. 4- * Cannes (des), E- 4- Cannes (marchedes), pla- ce Maubert, E. 4- Carmelites (impasse des), D. 5. 40 Caron, pr. la place Royale, F. 4- Carrousel (du), D. 3. Carrousel (place du ) , D. 3. Carrousel (pont du), D. 3. voy. Pont des St- Peres. Carpentier, D. 4» 41 Carre - Sainte - Genevieve (place du), E. 5. Carre-de-la-Halle (place du), E. 3. * Carrieres (des), a Chaillot, A. 3. Cassette, D. 4. Cassini, D. 6. Castellane C. 2. Castex, F. 4» Castiglione (de), C. 2.3. Catherine-d'Enfer (Ste-), D. 5. Catherine ( marche et place de) , St-Antoine, F. 4- Catherine ( impasse et cour Ste), au Caire, E. 2. * Caumartin (de), C. 2. Celestins (quai des), F. 4» Cendrier (du), E. C. Cendrier (passage et im- passe du), D. 2. Censier, E. 5. Cerisaie (de la), F. 4« Chabannais (de), D 2. Cbabrol (de), E. F. 1. Chaillot (de), A. 2. 3. B. 2. Chaise (de la), C. 4- Chamon, D. 5. Champagne (de), Halle aux vins, E. 5. Champ-de-l'Aloutte (du), E.6. Champs (des). A. 3. Champs-Elysees ( des ) , C. 2. Change (pont au), E. 3. Chanoinesse, E. 4- Chantereine, voy. de la Victoire, D. 2. Chantier-de-l'Ecu ( pas- sage du) , Chaussee- d'Antin, C. 2. * Chantier - de -Tivoli , D. 1. 2. * Chantre (du), D. 3. 42 Chantres (des), E. 4. Cbanvrerie (de la), E. 3 43Chapelle (de la), F. 1. Chapelle(courde la Ste-), au Palais, E. 4. Chapon, E. 3. Chaptal, D. 1. Charbonniers (des), fau- bourg St-Antoine, G. 5. Charbonniers (des), fau- bourg St-Marceau, E. 5. 6. Charbonniers ( impasse des), St-Antoine, G. 5. Charenton (de), F. 4. G. 4- 5. H. 6. Charenton (barriere de), H. 5. Chariot-d'Or (passage du) rue Greneta, E. 3. * Charite (de la), Foire-St- Laurent, E. 2. 45 Charles (Pont St-), E. 4. Fait partie de l'Hotel- Dieu. Chariot, F. 3. Charnier - des - Innocents (passage du), rue St- Deuis, E. 3. Charonne (de),G. H. 4- Charpentier, E. 1. Chartiere, E. 4- 5. Charte (de la),B. 2. voyez d'Angouleme. Chartres (de), place du Carrousel, D. 3. Chartres (de), barriere de Courcelles, B. 1. Charires (barriere de),B.i. 46 Chartreux (passage des), St-Eustache, E. 3. 47 Chat-Blanc (impasse du), place du Chatelet, E. 3. 48 Chat-qui-Peche (du), rue de la Huchette, E. 4. SQUARES, ETC. IN PARIS. 5 Chateaubriant (avenue), A. B. 2. Chateau-Land on, F. i. Chatelet (place du), E. 3. Chatillon, F. i. Chauchat, D. 2. Chaudron (du), F. 1. Chaume (du), E. 3. Chaumiere (jardin de la), D. 5. Chaussee-d'Antin (de la), D. 1. 2. Chaussre-des-Minimes (de la), F. 3. 4 Chauveau-Lagarde, C. 2. Chemin de fer de Paris a St-Germain , C. 1. Chemin-de-Pantin ( du ). F. 1. Chemin deVersailles (du), A. 2. Chemin- Vert (du), F. G.3. Cherche-Midi ( du ) , C. 4. 5. 49 Chevalier-du-Guet (du), E. 3. 50 Chevalier-du-Guet (place et impasse), E. 3. Chevaux (marche aux), boulevard l'Hopital, E. F. 5. Chevert, B. 4- 51 Chevet-St-Landri ( du ) , E. 4- v°y- d'Arcole. Chevet de l'Eglise (du) E. 1. Chevreuse, D. 5. 52 Childebert, D. 4. Chilperic, D. 3. Choiseul, U. 2. Choiseul (passage), D. 2. Cholets (des), E. 5. Chopinette (de la), F. 2. Chopinette (barriere de la), G. 2. Choux (pont aux), F. 3. Christine, D. 4- Christophe (St-), E. 4- Cimetiere-St-Andre, D.4- 53 Cimetiere-St-Benoit, E. 4- Cimetiere-St-]\ T icolas,E. 3. Cinq-Diamants (des), E.3. Cirque-Olympique (Fran- coni), F. 2. 54 — Id. aux Champs-Ely- sees, B. 2. Ciseaux (des), D. 4- Cite (de la), E. 4- Cite (quai de la), E. 4» Cite (pont de la), E. 4 Cite, ou Prado (passage de la), E. 4- * Claude, pres le pont du Jardin du Roi , G. 5. voj. Lacuee. Claude (impasse St ), au Marais, F. 3. Claude (St-), au Marais, F. 3. Claude (St-), porte St-De- nis, E. 2. 55 Claude (impasse St-), Moutmartre, D. 3. Claude Villefosse, F. 1. 2. Clef (de la), E. 5. Clement, I). 4. Clement-Marot, E. 9. Clement-St-Marcel , E. 6. Clery (de), E. 2. 56Clairvaux (impasse), rue St-Martin, E. 3. Clichy (de), C. D. 1. Clichy (barriere de), C, 1. 57 Clinique de TEcole de Medecine, D. 4- Cloche-Perche, E. 4- Cloitre-Notre-Dame (du), E. 4- 58Cloitre, Passage et Im- passe de la Treille, St- Germain - l'Auxerrois , D. 3. Cloitre - Saint - Germain- l'Auxerrois, D. 3. Cloitre-St-Merri (du),E.3. 59 Cloitre St-Honore (pas - sage), D. 3. Cloitre St-Benoit (du), D, E. 4. 60 Cloitre-St-Marcel , E. 6. Cloitre Ste - Opportune , E. 3. Clopin (impasse), E. 5. Clos-Georgeot (du), D 3. Clos^Payen (passage du), pres la rue de l'Our- sine, E. 6. Clotaire, E. 5. Clotilde, E. 5. Clovis, E. 5. Cluny (de), D. 4. 61 Cocatrix, E. 4- Coeur-Volant (du) , faub. St-Germain , D. 4« Colbert (de Parcade)D. 2. 62 Collegiale (place de la), ou St-Marcel, E. 6 Colombe (de la), E. 4. Colombier (du), voj. Ja- cob. Colonnes (des 1000), D. 2. Colysee (du), B. 2. Combat ( barriere du ) , F. 1. Comedie (passage de la), St-Honore, D. 3. * Comestibles (pass, et ba- zar des), E. 2. * Comete (de la), B. 3. 63 Commerce (cour du), en- clos de la Trinite, E. 3. Commerce (passage du), St-Martin, F. 3. * Commerce (cour et pas- sage du), D. 4- Comtesse d'Artois, voy. Montorgueil, E. 3. Concorde (place de la), C. 3. Idem (pont de la), C. 3. Conde (de), D. 4. Conference (quai de la") , B. C. 3. Constantinople, C. 1. Conte (de), enclosSt-Mar- tin, E. 3. Conti (quai et place de), D. 3. 4. Conti (impasse), D. 4- 64 Contrat-Social (du), E. 3. 65 Contrescarpe, Dauphine, D. 4. Contrescarpe, a l'Estra- pade, E. 5. Contrescarpe (de la),,St- Antoine, F. l\. 5. Copeau, E. 5. Coq-St-Honore, D. 3. Coq-Saint-Jean, E. 3. 4- Coqheron, D. 3. Coquenard, D. 1. 66 Coquerelle ( impasse ) , rue des Rosiers, F. 4- Coquilles (des), E. 3. Coquilliere, D. 3. Corbeau, F. 2. Cordelieres (des), E. 6. Corderie (de la Grande), au Temple, F. 3. Corderie ^de la), marche St-Honore, D. 2. G LIST OF THE STREETS Corderie (impasse de la), idem, D. 2. 67 Corderie ( place de la) , F. 3. Cordiers (des), D. 4. 5. Cordonnerie (de la), E. 3. Corneille (de), D. 4 Comes (des), E 6. Corroierie (de la), E. 3. Cossonnerie (de la), E. 3. Cotte, G. 4- 68 Cour des Comptes, D. 4- Cour St-Jacques (marehe de la), E. 3. Courcelles (de), B, 1. 2. Courcelles (barriere de), B. 1. Couronne (passage de la), rue des Bourdonnais, E. 3.* Courtalon, pres la rue Si-Denis el place Sainle- Opportune, E. 3. Cours (voir chaque nom). Gourtbaton (impasse), St- Germain - l'Auxenois , D. 3. * Courty (de), C. 3, Contellerie (de la), E. 3. Coutures-St-Gervais(des), F. 3. Coypel (impasse), pres la rue Cadet, D. 2. Crebillon, D. 4. Cretet, D. 1. Croissant (du), D. E. 2. Croix (de la), E. 2. 3. Croix-Blanche ( de la), inarche St- Jean, E. 4- 69 Croix (Sainte-), pres le Palais de Justice, E. 4- Croix-Boissiere (de la), a Cbaillot, A. 3. Croix-Boissiere (impasse de la), A. 3. Croix-de - la - Bretonnerie (Sainte-), E. 3. Croix-des-Petits-Chainps , D. 3. Croix - Rouge ( carrefour de la), C. D. 4- Croix-du-Roule (de la), B. 1. Croix - du -Trahoir (car- refour), rue de l'Arbre- Sec, D. 3. Croulebarbe (de), E. 6. Crussol, F. 3. Culture-Sainte-Catberine, F. 3. 4. Cunette (barriere de la), A. 4. Cygne (du), E. 3. Dalayrac, D. 2. Dames - Saint - Cbaumont (passage des), St-Denis et du Ponceau, E. 2. * Damielle (de), E, 2. Dany (impasse), rue du Rocher, C. 1. * Dauphin (du), D. 3. Daupbine, D. 4- Daupbine (passage), D. 4- Daupbine (place), D. 4- Debilly (quai), A. 3. Dechargeurs (des), E. 3. Degres (des), Bonne-Nou- velle, E. 2. * Delaborde, C. 2. Delaborde (impasse), C.i. Delaborde (place), C. 1. 2. Delaunay (impasse), G.4- 70Delorme (passage), St- Honore, D. 3. Delta (du), E. 1. Demi-Saint (du), pres St- Germain - l'Auxerrois , D. 3. * Denis (St-), E. 2. 3. Denis (St-), faubourg St- Antoine. H. 4- Denis (barriere St-), F. 1. Denis (boulev. St-), E. 2. Denis (passage St-), au Caire, E. 2. Denis (du faub. St-), E. 1. 2. F. 1. Derville, pres la rue de l'Oursine, E. 6. Desaix, A. 4- Desaix (quai), Marcbe- aux-Fleurs, E. 4- Descartes, E. 5. Descze, C. 2. Desir (passage du), E. 2. Deux-Anges (des), D. 4- Deux-Boules (des), E. 3. 71 Deux-Ecus (des), D. 3. Deux-Eglises (des), D. 5. Deux-Ermites (des), E. 4- Deux-Moulins (des),F. 6. Deux-Ponts (des), E. 4. Deux-Portes St-Andrj (des), D. 4. Deux-Portes-St-Jean(des" I E. 3. 4. Deux - Portes-Sl-Sauveu (des), E. 2. 3. Deux-Sceurs (cour), G. 4 72 Deux - Sceurs ( impass des) , E. 6. Deputes (chambre des) C. 3. Devaux Diorama, F. 2. Dominique (St-..), faub St- Germain, C. 3. 4 D. 4- Dominique (Si-), Gros Cailiou, B. 3. ' Dominique (St-), d'Enfer D. 5. Dominique (impasse) ! d'Enfer, D. 5. \ Doree, F. 3. Double (pont au), E. 4 Douze-Portes (des), F. 3 Doyenne (et impasse du) D. 3. Dragon (du), D. 4- 73 Dragon (cour et passagt du), D. 4. Dugay-Trouin, D. 5. Dugommier Duguesclin, A. 4- Dupbot, C 2. Dupleix, A. 4- Dupleix (place), A. 4- Dupont, A. 3. Dupuis, enclos du Tem- ple, F. 3. Duras (de), C. 2. Durnstein, D. 4- voj. de l'Ecbaude. Ecbarpe (de I'), F. 4. 74 Ecbaude (de 1'), au Ma- rais, F. 3. Ecbaude (de 1'), faubourg St-Gerinain, D. 4- Echelle (de 1'), D. 3. Ecbiquier (impasse de 1') E. 3. Echiquier (de 1'), E. 2. Ecluses St-Martin (des) F. 1. 75 Ecole (place de P), D. 3, Ecole (quai de 1'), D. 3. SQUARES, ETC. IN PARIS. Ecole-de-Medecine (de I'), ; d. 4. Ecole-de-Medecine (place de 1'), D. 4- Ejcole-Militaire (barriere de I'), B. 4- Ecosse (d'), E. 4- Ecouffes (des), E. 4- Ecrivains (ties), place du Chatelet, E. 3. Ecuries d'Artois (des) B. 2. tfglise (de Y), B. 3. 4- Egout (de 1') , fauboun St-Geimaln, D. 4- Egout (de I'), Ste-Cathe rims, F. 4- Egout (impasse de 1'), faub. St-Martin, pres la porte, E. 2. Elisabeth (Ste-j, F. 2. 3 Eloy (St-), E. 4- Empereur (passage de 1'), E. 3. * Enfant-Jesus (impasse d 1'), r. Vaugirard, C. 5. Enfants-Rouges(des),F. 3. 76 Enfants-Rouges (marche des). au Marais, F. 3 Eiifer (d*), D. 5. 6. Enfer (barriere d'), D. 6 Enfer (boulevard d'), D. 5. 6. Enfer {marche d') , D. 5. Enghien (d'), E. 2. Entrepot (de V), F. 2. Epee-de-Bois (de I*), E. 5. Eperon (de 1'), D. 4- Erfurth (d*), D. 4. Essai (de T), Marche-aux- Chevaux, E. F. 5. Est (de 1'), D. 5. 77 Estrapade (place de 1'), E. 5. Estrees (d'), B. 4- Etienne, D. 3. Etienne des-Gres (-St* ), D E. 5. Etienne-du-Mont (impas- se, St-), pres l'eglise, E. 5.* Etoile (de !'), F. 4. Etoile (place de 1'), bar riere de Neuilly, A. 2 Etoile des champs Ely sees (place de 1'), B. 2 Etoile (impasse et pas sage de L'), place du Caire, E. 2. Etoile ( de 1'), idem, ai Gros-Caillou, B. 3. Etroites Ruelles(des) F. 6 Etuves (impasse des), rue des Lombards, E. 3. Europe (place d'), C. 1. 78 Eustache (passage St-) E. 3. 79 Eustache (place St-), E. 3 Eveche (de 1'), E. 4- Evecpue (!'), D. 3. Faron (impasse St-), rue de la Tixeranderie E. 4 Fauconnier (du), F. 4- Favart, D. 2. Felibien, D. 4- Femme-sans-Tete (de la), E. 4- SOFeiielon (place), pont de la Cite,' E. 4- Fer-a-Moulin, E 5. 6. Ferdinand, G. 2. 81 Ferdinand^Berlhoud, en- clos St-Martin, E- 2. Ferme-de-Grenelle (ruelle de la), A. B. 4. Ferme-des-Mathurins (de la ), C. 2. Ferou, D. 4- Ferou (impasse), I). 4* Ferronnerie (de la), E. 3, Fers (aux), E. 3. Eeuillade (la), D. 3. Feuillantines (imp. des). E. 5. Feves (aux), E. 4- Feydeau, D. 2. Fiacre (St ), E. 2. 82 Fiacre (impasse St-), pres St- Merry, E. 3. Fiacre , idem , faub. du Temple, pres le canal, F. 2. * Fidel ite (de la), E. 2. Fidelite (de la), pres St- Laurent, E, 2. Figuier (du), F. 4 Filles-Dieu (des), au Caire, E. 2. Filles-Dieu (impasse des), porte St-Denis, E. 2. Filles du-Calvaire (des), F. 3. Filles-du-Calvaire (bou- levard des), F. 3. Filles-du-Calvaire (carre- four des), F. 3. Filles St-Thomas (des), D. 2. Flechier, D. 1. Fleurus (de), D. 5. Flore (passage de), pres 1'Opera, D. 2. * Florence, C. 1. Florentin (St-) C. 2. Foin-St-Jacques (du), E.4. Foin (du), au Marais, D. E. 4. Foire-St-Laurent (passage de la), E. 2. * Folie-Mericourt (de la), F. 2. 3. Folie-Regnault(dela)G.3. Folies-Dramatiques (thea- tre), F. 3. Fontaine - au - Roi (fau- bourg du Temple) , F. G. 2. Fontaine (de la), Jardin- du-Roi, E. 5. Fontaine, D. t. Fontaines (des), au Tem- ple, E. F. 3. 83 Fontaines (cour et pas- sage des), D. 3. Fontarabie (barriere de), H. 4. Fonlenoy (place dej, B.4- Forez (du), F. 3. Forges (des), au Caire, E. 2. Forge-Royale (impasse de la), faubourg St Antoi- ne, G. 4- Fortin (projetee), B. 2. Fortunee (avenue'!, A. B.2. Fosses Si-Bernard ( des ), E. 4 5. Fosses St - Germain - 1'Au- xerrois (des), I). E. 3. Fosses- St - Germain - des- Pres, D. 4- voy. de l'An- cienne Comedie. Fosses St-Jacques (des) , D E 5. Fosses St-Marcel (des), E. 5. 6. Fosses-St-Martin(des)F. 1. Fosses- Montmartre (des), D. 2. 3. 8 LIST OF THE STREETS Fosses du Temple (des), F. 2. 3. Fosses-St-Victor (des) E.5. Fouarre (du), E. 4« Four-St-Germain (du)D.4. Four-St-Honore (du),D,3. Four-St-Jacques (du),E.5. Fourcy Ste-Genevieve (de) F. 4- Fourcy (place et marche), Estrapade , E. 5. Fourcy-St-Antoine ( im- passe ), F. l\. * Fourreurs (des), E. 3 F'ourneaux (des), B. C. 5. Fourneaux (barriere des), B. 5. Foy (Ste-), E. i. Foy ( passage Ste-), au Caire, E 2. Franca is (theatre), Palais- Royal, D. 3. Francaise, E. 3. Francois I er (place), B. 3. Francois I er ( cour et pass.), rue du Ponceau, E. 2. Franklin (barriere), A. 3. Francs-Bourgeois St-Mar- cel (des), E. 6. Francs -Bourgeois (des) , au Marais, E. F. 3. Francs-Bourgeois ( des ) St-Michel , D. 4. Frepillon, E. 3. Frepillon (passage) idem , F. 3. * 84 Frileuse, a la Greve, E. 4« Frochot, D. 1. Froidinanteau, D. 3. Fromagerie (de la), a la Halle, E 3. Fromentel, E. 4- Frondeurs (des), D. 3. Fruits (port aux), ou le Mail, E. 4- Furstemberg, D. 4- 85Fuseaux (des), Pont- Neuf, E. 3. (reunie a celle des Quenouilles). Gaite (theatre dela), bou- levard du Temple, F. 2. — (Passage de la), F. 2. Gaillon, D. 2. Gaillon (carrefonr), D. 2. Galande, E. 4- Garanciere, D. 4« Garre (barriere dela),F.6. Garre (pont de la), voj. de Bercy, G.6. Gaste, A. 3. 8P> Gastine (place), rue St Denis, E. 3. Gazometre (du), E. 1. Genes (de), C. 1. Genevieve (Ste-), A. 2. Genti (passage), F. 5. Geoffroy-Langevin, E. 3. Geoffroy-l'Asnier, E. 4- Georges (St-), D. 2. 87 Gerard-Boquet, F. 4- Germain(Marche-St- )D.4- Germaiu-rAuxerrois(St-), D. E. 3. Germain-l'Auxerrois (pla- ce St-), D. 4- Germain-le-Vieux (St-) , (passage), E. 4- Germain-des-Pres (St-) , D. 4- 88 Germain-des-Pres (place St-), D. 4. Gervais (St-), E. 4- Gervais { passage St-), pres la Greve, E. 4- Gervais-Laurent, a la Cite, E. 4- Gevres (quai de)> E. 4. Gindre (du), D. 4* Git-le-Cceur, D. 4. Glaciere (de la), E. 6. Glatigny (de), E. 4. Gobelins (des), E. 6. Gobelins (boulevard des), E. 6. Gobelins(ruelle des), idem, E. 6. Gobelins ( manufacture des ) , E. 6. Godot-Demauroy, C. 2. Gourdes (des), A. 3. B. 2. Gracieuse, E. 5. Grammont (de), D. 2. Grammont (pont de), F.4 Grammont (impasse), C.r. Grand-Cbantier (du) , E. F. 3. Grand -Chantier-de-Tivoli (passage du), C. 2. * Grand-Hurleur (du), E. 3. Grand-Prieure (du), F. 3. Grand-St-Micbel, F. 1. Grands -Augustins (des) D. 4. Grands-Augustins ( qua des), D. 4. Grand-Cerf ( passage dt l'ancien), E. 3. Grands-Degres (des), E.4 Grande-Friperie (de la), { la Halle, E. 3. Grande-Rue , enclos de 1; Trinite, E. 3. Grande-Rue Verte,B. C.2 Grande-Truanderie ( di la), E. 3. Grange-aux-Belles, F. 2. Grange-Bateliere, D. 2. Gravilliers (des), E. 3. Grenel!e-St-Honore (de) D. 3. Grenelle, au Gros-Caillou B. 3. 4- Grenelle (de) , St-Germain C. 3. 4- Grenelle (abattoir de) B.5 Grenelle(barnerede)A. 4 Grenelle (impasse de ) Gros-Caillou, B. 3. Greneta, E. 3. Greneta (impasse), enclo de la Trinite, E. 3. * Grenier-St-Lazare, E. 3. Grenier sur I'Eau , pre la Greve, E. 4- Gres (des), D. 4. 5. Gresillons (des), C. i- Gretry, D. 2. Greve (quai de la), E. 4- Gril (du), E. 5. Grille (jjassage), C. 2. Griilee, E. 4- Gros-Chenet (du), E. 2.* 89 Grosse-Tete ( impasse di la), E. 2. Guemenee (impasse), F. 4 Guenegaud, D. 4> Guepine (impasse), rue d< Jouy-St-Antoine, E. 4« Guerin*Boisseau, E. 2. 3 Guillaume, E. 4« Guillaume (St-), C. D. 4- 90 Guillaume (cour et pas sage St ), D. 3. 91 Guillelmites (des), E. 3. Guisarde, D. 4« Gymnase (theatre du) boulevard Bonne-Nou velle , E. 2. SQUARES, ETC. IN PARIS. Halle nux cuirs, E. 3. — au beurre, ceufselfro- mages, E. 3. — . aux draps, E. 3. — aux poissons, E. 3. — aux pomraes de terre, E. 3. — a la verdure, E. 3. — aux vins. E. 4. 5. F. 5. — a la volaille et aux gi- biers. D. 4. Hambourg (de), C. i. Hanovre (de), I). 2. Harlay (de), au Marais, F. 3. Harlay (de), du Palais, D. 4- Harlay (cour de), au Pa- lais, D. 4. Harpe (de la), D. E. 4. Hautefort (impasse), E. 6. 92 Haut-Moulin (du) , en la Cite, E 4. Haut-Moulin ( du ) du Temple, F. 2. 93 Haute-des-Ursins, E. 4. Haul-Pave (du), E. 4. Hautefeuille, D. l\. Hauteville, E. 1, 2. Hasard (du), D. 3. Heaumerie (de la), E. 3. Heaumerie ( impasse de la), E. 3. Helder (du), D. 2. Heuri-Premier (de),enclos St-Marliti, E. 3. * 94 Heuri-Quatre (place de), Pont-Neuf, D. 3. 4. Hilaire (St-;, E. 4. Hillerin-Bertin, C. 4- Hirondelle (de I'), D. 4. Hippolyte (St-), E. 6. Homme-Arme(deF), E.3. Honore*Chevalier, D. 4. Honore (St-),C.2. 3. D.E.3. Honore (clqitre St-), D. 3. Honore (marche St-), ou des Jacobins, D. 2. 3. Honore (du faub. St-), B. C. 2. Hopital (boulevard de 1'), E. G. F. 5. 6. Hopital (quai de 1'), F. 5. 6. voj. Austerlitz. Hopital (place de P), F. 5. Hopital-General (de P), E. F. 6. Hopital St-Louis (de P), F. 1. 2. 95 Horloge (passage de P), pres POpera, I). 2. Horloge (quai de P), D. E. 4- Hospice de la Vieillesse , autrefois Salpetriere , F. 5. 6. Hospitalieres - St - Gervais (des), E. F. 4- Hospitalieres - St - Gervais (marche des ), v. Blancs- Manteaux, E. F. 3. 96 Hospitalieres ( impasse des ) , pres la Place- Royale, F. 4- Hotel-Breton (passage de P), Palais-Royal, I). 3.* Hotel-Colbert (de P), E.4 97 Hdtel-des-Fermes (passage del'),rueduBouloi,D.3. Hdtel Tanchoux (passage de P) , Marche-Neuf , E. 4- * H6tel-de-Ville(de P), E.4- H6telde-Ville(place de P), E. 4- Houssaye (du), D. 2. Huchette (de la), E. 4. Hugues (St-), enclos St- ' Martin, E. 3. * Hyacinthe (St-), St -Mi- chel, D. 5. Hyacinthe (passage St), idem, D. 5. * Hyacinthe (St-) , St-Ho- nore, D. 3. Hyacinthe, quai de la Greve, E. 4> * lend (pont d'), A. 3. Innocents ( marche des), rue St-Denis, a la Halle, E. 3. Innocents (passage des), idem, E. 3. * Invalides (hotel royal des) B. 3. Invalides (pont des),B.3. Invalides (esplanade des), B. 3. Irlandnis (des), E. 5. Italic (barriere d'), ou de Fontainebleau, E. 6. Ilaliens (boulev. des), D.2. Italiens (place des), D. 2. Italiens (theatre des) , D.2. Ivry (d'), E. 6. lvry (barriere d'), ou des Deux-Moulins, F G. 98 Jacinthe, E. 4. Jacob, U. 4- Jacques (St-), D. 5. E. 4. Jacques (marche et place St-), rueSoufflot, 1). 5.* Jacques (boulevard St-), D. E. 6. Jacques (dufaub. St-), U. E. 6. Jacques-la-Boucherie(St-) , E. 3! Jacques - la - B^ucherio (marche St- et place), E. 3. voj. Cour St- Jac- ques. Jacques la-Boucherie (pas- sage St-), E. 3.* Jacques-PHopital (St )E 3. Jardin du Roi , E. F 5. Jardin du Luxembourg , D. 5. Jardin Marbeuf, B. 2. Jardin de Tivoli, C. I). 1. Jardin-du-Roi ( Simon-le-Franc, E. 3. Singes (des), E. 3. I62Sceurs (impasse des), St- Marcel, E. 6. 1(53 Soleil-d ? Or (passage du), C. 2. Soly, pres la grandePoste aux lettres, D. 3. Sorbonne (de), E. 4« Sorbonne (place de la), D. 4. Soubise (passage), hotel Soubise, E. F. 3. Souflot, D. 5. Sourdis (impasse), pres St-Germaiu I'Auxerrois D. 3.* Sourdis (ruelle de) , au Marais, F. 3. Sourdiere (de la), Saint- Roch, D. 2. 3. Sourds-inuets (institution des), D. 3. Spire (St-), E. 2. Stanislas , autrefois Ter- ray, C. 5. Stockholm, C. 1. Suffren (avenue de), A. B. 4- Sully, a l'Arsenal, F. 4« Sulpice f place St-), D. 4. Surene (de), C. 2. I64Tabletterie (de la), E. 3. Tacherie (de la), E. 4, SQUARES, ETC. IN PARIS. Taille-Pain St-Merri, E. 3. Taitbout, D. 2. Tannerie (de la), E. \. Taranne, D. 4- Teinturiers fdes), E. 4- * Temple (du j, E. 3. F. 2. 3. Temple(l'aub. du), F. G. 2. Temple (boulevard du), F. 2. 3. Temple (marche du), pres du Temple, F. 3. Temple (euclos du), mar- che au linge, F. 3. Terres-Fortes (des), F. 4- Theatres (passage des), D. 2. Therese, D. 3. Thevenot, E. 2. Thibotaude, D. E. 3. Tbiroux, C. 2. 5 Thomas-d' Aquin (St-), et place, C. 4- Thomas-d'Enfer(St-),D.5 Thomas-du-Louvre (St.), D. 3. Thorigny (de), F. 3. Tuiles (port aux), quai de la Touruelle, E. 4. Tiquetonne, E. 3. Tirechape, D. E. 3. Tiron, E. 4- Tivoli, C. 1. — (jardin de), C. F, D.i. — (passage), C, 1. Tixerauderie (de la), E. 3. 4. Tonnellerie (de la), E. 3. Tour (de la), F. 2. 3. Tour-d'Auvergne (de la), D. E. 1. Tour-des-Dames (de la), D. i> Touraine (de), D. t\. Touraiue (de),au Marais, F. 3. 3 Touruelle (de la), E. 4. Tournelle (pont de la), E. 4. Tournelle (quai de la), E. 4. Tournelles (des), F. 3. 4 Tourniquet-St-Jean Mu) E. 4. Tournon (de), D. 4. Tourville (avenue), B. 4 Toustain, Marche St-Ger- inain, L>. 4. Tracy (de), E. 2. Trainee, St-Eustache, E. 3. Transnonain, E. 3. Traverse (de), C. 4- Traversiere - St - Honore, D. 3. Traversiere, faub. St-An- toine, F. 5. G. 4- Traversine, E. 4- 5. Treille (impasse de la), D. 3. pres St-Germain- l'Auxerrois. 168 Treille (passage de la), marche Saint-Germain, D. 4. Trevise, E. 2. Trinite (passage et enclos de la), E. 3. Triompb.es (avenue des), H. 4. Triperie (pont de la), Gros-Caillou, A. B. 3. Triperet, E. 5. Trognon , place du Cha* telet, E. 3. Trois-Bornes (des), F. G. 2. Trois-Caneltes (des), Ci- te, E. 4. 169 Trois-Chandeiles (ruelle des), G. H. 5. Trois-Chandeliers (des), quai St-Michel, E. 4. Trois-Couronnes ( des ) , faubourg du Temple, G. 2. Trois-Couronnes (des), St-Marcel, E. 6. Trois-Couronnes (barriere des), G. 2. Trois-Freres (des), D. 1. 2. Trois-Freres(impasse des) G. 5. I/O Trois-Maries (place des), Pont-Neuf, D. 3. Trois-Maures (des), Lom- bards, E. 3. Trois-Maures (des), quai de la Greve, E. 4. Trois-Pavillons (des) F. 3. 171 Trois-l'istolets (des), F. 4. Trois-Portes (des), E. 4. Trois-Sabres (ruelle des), fit. 5. Trois Visages ( impasse des), Thibotaude, E. 3.* Tronchet, C. 2. 17 Trone (barriere et place du), H. 4- Trousse- Vache, E. 3. voj. Reynie (la). Trouvee, G. 4« Trudon, C. 2. Tuerie (de la), place du Chatelet, E. 3. * Tuileries (quai des), C. D. 3. Ulm, D. E. 5. Universite, faubourg St- Germain, C. 3. D. 4- Universite, au Gros-Cail- lou, B. 3. Ursulines (des), D 5. Val-de-Grace (du), D. 5. Valois, Palais Royal, D. 3. Valois (passage.), idem , D. 3. Va'ois St-Honore, D. 3. Valois du Roule, B. 1. Vanneau, C. 4- Vannerie (de la), E. 3. 4» Vannes (de), Halle au Ble , D. 3. Vannes (et place St-). enclos St-Martin, E. 3, voj. rue Conte. Varennes (de), faub. St- Germain, C. 4- Varennes (de), Halle-au- Ble. D. 3. Varietes (theatre des ) > boulevard IMontmartre, D. 2. Varietes (passage des), D. 3. Vaucanson, enclos St-Mar~ tin, E 2. 3. Vaudeville (passage du), D. 3. Vaudeville (theatre du), rue St-Thomas-du Lou- vre, D. 3. Vaugirard (de), B. 5. C. 5. D. 4. Vaugirard (barriere de) , C. 5. Vavin, D, 5» Vendome (de), F. 2. 3. Venddme (place), C. D 2. Venise (de), E. 3. 1 8 LIST OF THE STREETS, SQUARES, ETC. IN PARIS. I72Veni.se (impasse et pas- sage de), E. 3. Ventadour (de), D. 2. 3. Verdelet, D 3. Verderet, E. 3. Verneuil (de), C. D. 3. Vero-Dodat (passage), rue de Grrnelle, D. 3. Verrerie (de la), E. 3. 4- "Versailles (de), E. 5. "Versailles (impasse), E. 5. "Vertbois (du), E. 2. Vertbuisson (impasse), Gros>Caillou, B. 3. Vertus (des), E. 3. Vertus ( barriere des ) , F. 1. Veuves (allee des), B. 2. 3. Viande ( inarche a la ), Halle, E. 3. Viarmes (de), D. 3. Victor (St-), E. 4- 5. Victoire (place), D. 3. 173 Vide-Gousset, D- 3. Vicilles- Audriettes (des), E. 3. Vieille-Bouclerie (de la), E. 4- Vieille-Draperie (de la), E. 4- Vieille-Estrapade (de la), E. 5. Vieilles-Etuves (des), St- Honore, D. 3. Vieilles-Etuves (des), St- Martin, E. 3. Vieille-Harangerie (dela), E, 3. 174 Vieille-Lanterne (de la), place du Chatelet, E. 3. Vieille-Monnaie (de la), idem, E. 3. Vieille-Notre-Dame, St- Marcel, E. 5. Vieille-Place-aux-Veaux , place du Chatelet, E. 3. 4. I 175 Vieille-Tannerie (dela), place du Chatelet, E. 3. Vieil!e-rue-du-Temple, E. 3. 4- F. 4. Vieilles Tuileries ( des ) , C. 4- 5. vof. du Cherche- Midi. Vieilles-Tuileries (impasse des), C. 4- 5. Vienne, C. 1. Vierge (de la), B. 3. Vieux- Augustins (des), D. 3. Vieux-Colombier (du), d. i^: 176 Vigan (passage du),Mont- martre, D. 3. Vignes (des), a Chaillot, A. B. 2. Vignes (des), St-Marcel, E. 6. Vignes (impasse des), E. 5. Villars (avenue), C. 4- Villedot , D. 3. Ville-1'Eveque ( de la), C 2. Ville-l'Eveque ( passage de la), C. 2. Villejnif (de), F 6. Villejuif (Abattoir de), E. F. 6. Villette (barriere de la), on St-Martin, F. 1. Villiot, G. 5. Vinaigriers (des), E. F. 2 - Vincennes (avenue de), f H. 4. 177 Vincent-de-Paule (St-), c. 4. Violet (passage), E. 2. . Virginie (passage de ) , Palais-Royal, D. 3. Visages ( impasse des ) 9 E. 3. * Vivienne, D. 2. 3. Vivienne (passage), D. 2. Voltaire (quai), D. 3. Voltaire, D. 4. Voirie (de la), St-Martin et St- Denis, F. 1. 178 Voirie (de la),Popincourt, F. 3. Voirie (dela), Moneeaux, C. 1. vof. Delaborde. Vrilliere(de la), D. 3. Washington ( passage ), I rue du Chantre-St-Ho- noi e, D. 3. * Whalhubert (place), F. 5. Zacharie, E. 4- Zacharie (passage), idem, E. 4- rvpOGRAFHIE JOE FIKMIJV BIX)OT FJVEBKS, BUS JACOB, 1 r.