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VOYAGE 
 
 TO 
 
 BUENOS AYRES, 
 
 PERFORMED 
 
 IN THE YEARS 1817 AND 1818, 
 
 BY ORDER OF THE AMERICAN GOVERNMENT, 
 
 By H. M. BRACKENRIDGE, Esq. 
 
 VECRP.TARY TO THE MISSION . 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR SIR RICHARD PHILLIPS and Co. 
 
 BRIDE-COURT, BRIDGB-STREET. 
 
 1820. 
 
ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 THE Public Interest excited by the political state and 
 social prospects of South America, rendering every ac- 
 count of those countries in a peculiar degree interesting, 
 the Editor of this Journal has availed himself of the 
 late mission from the United States to the Provinces 
 of La Plata, and here introduces to his reader the 
 narrative part of the published details of Mr. Bracken- 
 ridge. 
 
 That gentleman has presented to the world two lumi- 
 nous volumes on the subject of South America, in 
 which many valuable disquisitions, historical and po- 
 litical, have been mixed with his personal adventures 
 and local observations, — but, in the pages which follow, 
 the former have been rejected, and only the latter pre- 
 served. 
 
 The selection has been made with reference to the 
 objects and character of this Journal, for Mr. Bracken- 
 ridge is on all subjects worthy of attention ; and we can 
 recommend his entire work, which has been handsomely 
 reprinted in London, to the attention of every enlightened 
 political enquirer. 
 
IV ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 The present Number completes the third volume 
 of this series, and we feel it our duty to acknowledge 
 the liberal support with which the monthly numbers 
 and half-yearly volumes have been honoured ; and to 
 add, that our persevering exertions shall be continued, 
 to maintain the interest and character of the work. 
 
 Altho' it has been found necessary to raise the price 
 of the Numbers to 3s. 6d., to enable us to do justice to 
 the valuable and splendid works which we are called 
 upon to present to the public, yet the volumes of six 
 Numbers will be sold at a guinea, in elegant half-binding, 
 
 August 1820. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 PERHAPS no sovereigns ever possessed an empire of such 
 vast extent and importance as that of the kings of Spain 
 in America. The South American continent alone, when con- 
 sidered with relation to its capacities and future destinies, is 
 probably equal to all the rest of the habitable globe. Its geo- 
 graphical surface is less, indeed, than that of Africa, but when 
 we consider how small a part of that continent is capable of 
 sustaining human life, how bad its climate, and how deficient 
 in rivers, the veins and arteries of the earth, it sinks in the 
 scale far below the new world. Of Europe, much is given up 
 to excessive cold ; and of Asia, immense portions are barren 
 and uninhabitable. 
 
 The position of South America, as relates to the United 
 States, to Europe, Africa, and Asia, holds out the most singu- 
 lar advantages for commerce. When the commerce of the 
 east comes to receive that direction which seems to be pointed 
 out by nature, through the Carribean sea and the gulf of 
 Mexico, America will then be the acknowledged centre of the 
 earth. 
 
 Spanish America is distributed into four viceroyalties ; New 
 Spain, New Grenada, Peru, and Rio de la Plata; and into the 
 captain-generalships of Yukatan, Guatimala, Venezuela, Chili, 
 and Cuba. The islands belonging to, or claimed by Spain, 
 are Cuba, Porto-Rico, Margarita, and St. Andrews. In the 
 Pacific, she possesses the Archipelago of Chiloe, and the island 
 of Juan Fernandez, with some others on the coast of Chili. 
 With the exception of Peru, (sometimes called Lima from its 
 capital), all Spanish America has been the theatre of revolu- 
 tionary struggles, or is noiv actually in possession of' the 
 patriots. The viceroyalty of Grenada, a territory more exten- 
 sive than our old thirteen states, was for several years the 
 scene of a bloody contest for independence. The incidents of 
 this contest in the provinces of Carthagena, Santa Martha, 
 Choco, Popayan, and Quito, are familiar to most readers. The 
 blaze has subsided, but the fire is not yet extinguished, nor 
 will be, until there cease to be any combustible materials. 
 The incidents of the war in Venezuela, are also tolerably well- 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. 6. Vol. III. B 
 
2 Introduction. 
 
 known ; but, excepting in the island of Margarita, the con- 
 test still rages. On the plains of Calabozo and Caraccas, the 
 bloody and exterminating war, it is feared, will not soon be 
 brought to a close. It is only in the viceroyalty of La Plata, 
 that the progress of independence has been firm and sure. It 
 is true, this mighty cause has been desperately contested in 
 the rugged mountains of the provinces on the heads of the 
 Paraguay and Amazon ; the theatre on which La Plata has 
 been struggling for liberty, with various success, for the last 
 eight years. Chili, in close alliance with this republic, may bid 
 defiance to Spain; without this, if we may judge from the 
 past, the question is doubtful. The only viceroyalty of South 
 America which has remained quiet from the beginning of the 
 contest, is Peru; the most feeble, and with the exception of 
 its mineral wealth, the least important of them all. 
 
 In the physical configuration of America, there are many in- 
 teresting peculiarities. The great traveller Humboldt has 
 exhibited the principal of these, in the works already published 
 by him; in those which he is still preparing for the press, the 
 magnificent outline will be filled up. The most striking fea- 
 tures of the new world, constituting the principal difference 
 between it and the other quarters of the globe, are its moun- 
 tains and rivers. The chain of the Andes is undoubtedly the 
 longest in the world, traversing both North and South America, 
 and in some points, (unless we except the mountains of Thibet), 
 the most elevated. Beyond the isthmus these mountains sepa- 
 rate, and traverse the continent in three distinct chains or 
 ridges. The first is the Cordilleras, which runs along the Pa- 
 cific, and is, in fact, a continuation of the rocky mountains of 
 Norlh America. The second is the chain which branches from 
 the Cordillera in the province of Quito, passes through New 
 Grenada towards the Atlantic, and pursuing a course nearly 
 parallel, is interrupted by the Oronoko, re-appears in Guyana, 
 and approaches the Amazon, when it is in like manner broken 
 by the immense valley of this river. It afterwards shews itself 
 in Brazil, traversing it in the whole extent, again subsiding in 
 the highlands of Maldonado, near La Plata. The third chain, 
 called the Eastern Cordillera of Peru, runs towards the Tro- 
 pic, whence it takes an inclined direction, and terminates in 
 the south-east, in the plains of the Grand Chaco. There are, 
 besides, a number of interior chains, particularly those which 
 separate the vallies of the great rivers of Brazil. From the 
 eastern ridges, there is a gradual slope to the interior, while on 
 the coast their ascent is abrupt and steep. Their elevation is 
 considerably less than the Cordillera or Andes, and they are 
 more irregular and broken. The vast tract of country which 
 
Introduction. 3 
 
 stretches along 1 the heads of the Amazon and La Plata, upwards 
 of three thousand miles in length, and probably more than three 
 hundred in breadth, is one of the most rugged and mountainous 
 on the globe; it is a continued succession of deep vallies, of 
 various dimensions, enclosed by mountains whose summits, in 
 general, are covered with perpetual snows. In the northern 
 part, there are plains of such elevation as to afford all the ad- 
 vantages of the most temperate and delightful climates; to the 
 south, the vallies are in general lower, and although extremely 
 fertile, are more hot. 
 
 The coast of the Atlantic differs, in several very important 
 particulars, from that of the Pacific. Being in general bold 
 and rocky, and having the estuaries of the great rivers, it affords 
 a number of the finest harbours in the world. The coast of 
 Brazil especially, a length of three thousand miles, is highly 
 favoured in this particular. La Plata forms an exception, and 
 it is probable that there are no very good harbours south of 
 that river. The whole extent of this coast is highly fertile, and 
 capable of sustaining the most crowded population. The coast 
 of the Pacific, on the opposite side of the continent, is, with 
 some interruptions, sterile and dreary; and as it never rains 
 over a great proportion of it, there are considerable tracks as 
 barren as the deserts of Arabia. These almost entirely inter- 
 rupt the land-communication between Lima anu Chili, and 
 even form considerable obstacles to the intercourse between 
 the different districts of the vice-royalty. It is somewhat sur- 
 prising, that the African camel has never been introduced for 
 the purpose of travelling over these sandy plains, although in 
 use in Mexico. The communication between different places 
 on the Pacific, is therefore carried on by water ; but there is 
 great difference between the voyage north, and that to the 
 south ; the latter having to encounter adverse wind and cur- 
 rent. Although the coast of the Pacific is not so well furnished 
 with commodious harbours as that of Brazil and Terra Firma, 
 there are a number which possess considerable advantages. It 
 is remarkable, that the same difficulties exist in the internal 
 communication between different places on the opposite sides 
 of the continent, but for different reasons ; on the Atlantic, the 
 extraordinary mass of vegetation, which covers the ground, 
 opposes the most serious obstacle to the opening of roads ; ob- 
 stacles that in this country we can scarcely conceive ; the 
 thickest cane-breaks in the southern parts of the United States 
 are trifling impediments compared to them; besides, the facili- 
 ties of navigation on that delightful coast, where dangers by sea 
 are almost unknown, take away all inducements to any extra- 
 ordinary labor in making highways, between the two great 
 
 B2 
 
4 Introduction. 
 
 cities of St? Salvador and Rio Janeiro, there is no land-com- 
 munication, and much of the intermediate space is occupied 
 by ferocious and unsubdued Indians. 
 
 To make amends for the difficulties of internal intercourse 
 by land, there is no part of the world which possesses such a 
 number of fine navigable rivers as South America. An ele- 
 gant writer has observed, " that of all the portions of the globe, 
 America is that which is best watered;" there are at least fifty 
 rivers, as large as the Rhine or Danube, whose names are 
 scarcely known, even to those who may be considered as well- 
 informed respecting- South America. These, at some future 
 day, will afford the means of carrying - on an internal trade, com- 
 pared to which that of China, so much boasted, will appear in- 
 significant. Those mighty rivers the Magdalena, Oronoko, 
 the Amazon, the Plata, and their hundred arms, stretching- in 
 every direction over the continent, will afford facilities of inter- 
 course between the remotest regions. 
 
 The points at which the two oceans may be connected, have 
 given rise to frequent speculation; I shall probably, in the 
 course of this work, make some observations ou the subject ; at 
 present, I will only remark, that from every thing I have been 
 able to learn, the most eligible is that from Guasacualco 
 Tehuantepec. Should this isthmus become the connecting 
 point, it will be a subject of great interest to the United States. 
 New Orleans or Havanna will then probably be the great mart 
 of the East India trade. From the Balize a steam-boat would 
 run down in a few days to Guasacualco ; and, at farthest, two 
 days would suffice for the transportation of merchandize to the 
 Pacific. By this means, a direct intercourse would be estab- 
 lished, between Europe and the United States, with the coun- 
 tries on the Western ocean. The introduction of steam-boats 
 on this coast, as well as on that of Brazil, and in the Carribean 
 sea, will no doubt follow in the course of improvement, and will 
 effect the most singular changes in human affairs. Great diffi- 
 culties oppose the passage across the Isthmus of Darien or 
 Panama; a proof of which is, that Spain, instead of sanding 
 troops to Lima in this direction, prefers the circuitous voyage 
 round Cape Horn. It is true, however, that a very consider- 
 able trade has always been kept up between Porto Bello and 
 Panama, notwithstanding the ruggedness of the passage. But 
 the important trade of Spain with the East Indies has been 
 carried on from Acapulco, the only good port of New Spain; 
 while the products of Lima and Guiaquill have been trans- 
 ported across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. In the hands of 
 an enterprizing nation, this wonderful country would be found 
 to possess facilities of communication approximating remote 
 
Introduction, 5 
 
 parts, which at present can scarcely be imagined ; at the same 
 time, that there exists the most extraordinary advantages for 
 defence, when it should require the interruption of that inter- 
 course. At present, the inhabitants north of the Oronoko, on 
 account of the uninhabitable wilderness of Amazonia, have no 
 direct communication with the provinces on the Plata ; they are 
 almost as completely separated as if they were on opposite sides 
 of the ocean. The eastern ridges of the Andes oppose a bar- 
 rier scarcely less formidable. 
 
 Humboldt has remarked, that in no part of the world is the 
 population so unequally distributed as in Spanish America. 
 This principally arises from the circumstance of the Spaniards 
 occupying the same seats, with the half-civilized Aborigines 
 whom they subdued. In 31exico, in the kingdom of the 
 Incas in Peru, and of the Zac of St. Fee de Bogota, the popu- 
 lation was very considerable, and in a state of civilization not 
 much below that of the East Indies. In these countries the 
 Indians still constitute the great mass of population ; the lower 
 class are an indolent harmless peasantry, and, in the comforts of 
 civilized life, probably not below the boors of Russia, or even 
 the peasantry of Poland or Hungary. By a long and syste- 
 matic course of oppression, they have become spiritless and 
 submissive, although on a few occasions, when roused by 
 chiefs of their own origin, whom they venerate, they have ma- 
 nifested acts of great desperation ; as in the instance of the in- 
 surrection of Tapac Amaru, which broke out in the year 1783, 
 in the upper provinces of La Plata. 
 
 There have even appeared among the Indians, men dis- 
 tinguished for their literary attainments ; Garcillasco and Tor- 
 quemada, two of the best historians of the new world, were of 
 the Aboriginal race ; one a descendant of the Incas, the other a 
 citizen of the republic TIascala, who availed himself of the 
 Roman alphabet, forty years after the conquest, to write a his- 
 tory of the important events which had taken place. The pre- 
 ceptor of the celebrated astronomer Velasques, was a Mexican 
 Indian. In the universities of Lima and Mexico, there are 
 professorships of the native languages, into which several 
 works have been translated. Tupac Amaru was a well edu- 
 cated and accomplished gentleman; he was driven to despera- 
 tion, in consequence of his unavailing efforts to obtain some 
 alleviation in the treatment of the common people, the descen- 
 dants of those who had been the subjects of his ancestors. The 
 lower class of the Spaniards think themselves superior to the 
 Indian peasantry; but there is little or no distinction between 
 the higher classes of mixed blood, and the American Spaniards. 
 In fact, in all parts of South America, with the exception of 
 
(i Introduction. 
 
 Caraccas, Chili, and the Provincias Internas, the American 
 Spaniard contains more or less mixture with the native races. 
 
 The American Spaniards are next in point of numbers, but 
 they are much more important, in consequence of their possess- 
 ing greater privileges, better education, and more general 
 wealth. Although they are the great landholders of the coun- 
 try, their influence is less than it might be, on account of their 
 careful exclusion from participation in the government; it 
 being the policy of Spain, to keep them in a state of idleness 
 and vice, as the surest means of retaining her sway in these dis- 
 tant countries; they have, therefore, been deprived of nearly 
 all those incentives which tend to elevate the character of a 
 people. 
 
 Perhaps, the most remarkable and peculiar class of popula- 
 tion in Spanish America, are the herdsmen, or shepherds, who 
 are met with chiefly in New Spain, in Venezuela, and on the La 
 Plata. There is probably a considerable resemblance between 
 the shepherds of these different districts, separated by such 
 vast distances, but where the habits of life are much alike. 
 These men, who have made a retrograde step from civilization, 
 are every where represented as possessing powerful and athle- 
 tic frames, and bold independent minds, but extremely rude 
 and uninformed. If there be any difference in the herdsmen 
 inhabiting the countries jnst mentioned, I am inclined to think 
 that those of La Plata are more savage and ferocious ; which 
 may arise from their leading a more solitary life, and having 
 fewer of the comforts of civilization. 
 
 The proportion of negroes in Spanish America was by no 
 means great, excepting in Caraccas and the islands. In Peru, 
 there was a much greater number than in Mexico ; but from 
 the privileges they enjoyed, it is evident that their condition 
 was not severe. In Mexico there Mas no necessity for the in- 
 troduction of slaves, in consequence of the great number of 
 Indian labourers, and the cheapness of labour; these people, 
 who were in a low state even under their own kings, Mere stu- 
 diously kept in the lowest degradation by their new masters, 
 while the kings of Spain were desirous of elevating them to the 
 rank of subjects ; for it seems that ihey M r ere sunk too lon r in 
 the scale of beings, even in the eyes of the European sovereign. 
 
VOYAGE 
 
 TO 
 
 BUENOS AYRES. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Voyage from Norfolk to Rio Janeiro — Description of Rio — 
 Coronation — General Description of Brazil. 
 
 PTHHE civil war, which continues to rage between Spain and 
 ■*■ the different provinces of South America, had long- at- 
 tracted the attention of the people of the United States. What- 
 ever our wishes might be, it became us to maintain a perfect 
 neutrality between the contending- parties. The ability mani- 
 fested by the South Americans to maintain the contest, the im- 
 portant successes obtained by them, the declining state of the 
 Spanish resources, and the probable termination of the contest, 
 in the independence of South America, rendered it necessary 
 that preparations should be made for the establishment of peace 
 and amity with the new states, in case their struggle should 
 be ultimately crowned with success. This, and other motives, 
 induced the president to send a friendly mission to the different 
 governments of South America, to give them assurances of our 
 determination to maintain a perfect neutrality in the contest, 
 considering them as engaged in a civil war with the king of 
 Spain, and therefore on a footing- of equality as to neutral 
 rights. With a view also of ascertaining the kind of relations 
 it might be proper hereafter to establish with the South Ameri- 
 can states, or for the purpose of regulating our present inter- 
 course, it was desirable to obtain the best information as to 
 their character and resources. The objects of the mission are 
 thus stated by the president, in his message to Congress: 
 " To obtain correct information on every subject, in which the 
 United States are interested; to inspire just sentiments in all 
 persons in authority, on either side, of our friendly disposition, 
 
8 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 so far as it may comport with an impartial neutrality; and to 
 secure proper respect to our commerce in every port, and from 
 every flag', it lias been thought proper to send a ship of war 
 with three distinguished citizens, along the southern coast, 
 with instructions to touch at such ports as they may find most 
 expedient for these purposes. With the existing authorities, 
 with those in the possession of, and exercising the sovereignty, 
 must the communication beheld; from them alone can redress 
 for past injuries, committed by persons acting under them, be 
 obtained ; by them alone can the commission of the like, in 
 future, be prevented." 
 
 The mission was composed of the following gentlemen, 
 Caesar A. Rodney, John Graham, and Theodorick Bland, com- 
 missioners, and H. M. Brackenridge, secretary. William T. 
 Reed, and Thomas Rodney, (son of the commissioner,) accom- 
 panied the mission. The commissioners arrived at Norfolk, in 
 the steam-boat, on the 28th of November, 1817, where the fri- 
 gate Congress, commanded by Commodore Arthur Sinclare, 
 who had been selected for this purpose, was ready to receive 
 them on-board. Owing to some delay in transmitting- the 
 orders for sailing", the mission did not embark until the 3d of 
 December. In the mean time, we were treated with every 
 mark of attention and civility by the people of Norfolk, who do 
 not yield to the rest of Virginia in that elegant hospitality for 
 which the state is justly celebrated. The difference in the 
 climate between this place and Baltimore is very sensible. 
 We had just escaped the skirts of winter; the warmth of the 
 sun, the softness of the air, and the appearance of vegetation, 
 seemed to carry us back to the middle of autumn — that season, 
 which may be styled the glory of the American skies. 
 
 On the 4th, the Congress weighed anchor and put to sea. 
 Commodore Sinclare had taken pains to render our accommo- 
 dations as comfortable as possible for along and tedious voyage. 
 It is very certain, that the voyage could not be made under 
 more agreeable circumstances ; in a noble frigate, manned by 
 an excellent crew, and commanded by officers of experience 
 and skill. There were several lieutenants, and a number of 
 midshipmen on-board, beyond the usual complement; the 
 voyage being considered an interesting one, it was a desirable 
 object among the naval gentlemen to engage in it. To me, 
 the little world to which I found myself transferred, continually 
 presented a thousand objects to instruct and amuse. The 
 order and cleanliness which prevailed in every part of the 
 vessel, excited my admiration ; everything seemed to move 
 like clock-work, and although there were four hundred souls 
 on-board, we appeared to be no way crowded or encumbered. 
 
In 1S17 and 1818. 9 
 
 Every pains were taken by the commander, to preserve the 
 health of his crew; in having to cross both tropics and the 
 equinoctial line, no precautions could be thought superfluous. 
 There was but one circumstance calculated in any way to 
 lessen the satisfaction felt by every one at the auspicious com- 
 mencement of the voyage; the term of enlistment of the 
 greater part of the crew, would probably expire before the 
 voyage could be completed; the consequence to be feared 
 would be, at the least, a discontent, and a want of inclination to 
 the performance of their duty. The commodore, aware of dif- 
 ficulties which had arisen under similar circumstances, mus- 
 tered all hands on the evening previous to our sailing; gave 
 them a short address ; in which he told them, that the cruise 
 they were about to make, would be in a mild and delightful 
 climate, where they would escape the northern winter; that 
 their return might possibly be delayed a few months longer 
 than their term of service, but that this would be more than 
 compensated by the agreeableness of the cruise ; that they 
 would be no losers even if they were disposed to enter into the 
 merchant-service, as seamen's wages were at this time ex- 
 tremely low; he concluded by promising them every reason- 
 able indulgence at the places at which he should touch. The 
 address was received with three cheers, and each one seemed 
 to repair to his duty with alacrity. 
 
 We steered from the capes on an east-half-south course with 
 a leading wind, the weather cold and unpleasant. The entrance 
 into the gulf-stream is easily ascertained by the difference of 
 temperature between the air and water. On soundings about 
 fifty-five miles east of Cape Henry, the air was forty degrees 
 of Farenheit, while the water was fifty-nine degrees. The air 
 soon afterwards rose to forty-three, and the water suddenly to 
 sixty-eight. The air then continued to vary from forty to 
 forty-five, and the water from seventy-two to seventy-five until 
 we |had run upon the same course, the wind at north-west, 
 eighty-seven miles ; when the water fell to seventy-one, and 
 continued between that and sixty-eight, until the air rose to 
 the same temperature. " Thus," says commodore Sinclare, " I 
 computed the distance of the gulf-stream, east from Cape 
 Henry, to be about one hundred and twenty miles, and the 
 body of it in the same direction about ninety miles across, but 
 iu steering east there is no doubt that the influence of the 
 stream is felt for several hundred miles ; as from Cape Hat- 
 teras, where the gulf alters its north-east to an easterly direc- 
 tion, to the latitude of Cape Henry, it inclines as much off as 
 east-north-east, and expands its width as it loses its strength." 
 During winter there are continual vapors, arising from the 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. 6. Vol. III. C ^ 
 
\0 Voyage to Buenos Ay res, 
 
 troubled waters of the gulf-stream; the atmosphere appears 
 dark and heavy, and the sea looks wild and frightful. The 
 effect of this immense river of warm water flowing directly in 
 front of our continent, must necessarily be very great on the 
 American climate. May not this be one of the causes of those 
 sudden changes in the temperature of which we hear so many 
 complaints ? 
 
 Nothing material occurred until the 17th, when, about lati- 
 tude twenty-nine degrees thirty minutes, a severe gale set in, 
 which lasted forty-eight hours. Storms have been described 
 by so many writers, and so much better than I can describe 
 this one, that I think it unnecessary to say any thing further 
 than that the descriptions are much more agreeable than the 
 reality. The spectacle was indeed sublime, but it is probable 
 I should have enjoyed it more, if there had been less of the 
 terrific. The ship was stripped of her sails, excepting her 
 main-top sail, which was close-reefed, and her'storm stay-sail ; 
 her top-gallant masts and her principal yards were lowered, 
 her jibboom rigged in, and a variety of other precautions were 
 taken, such as housing the guns and carrying the shot below. 
 The ship was then laid to, and rode out the storm with ease and 
 safety. During this unpleasant time I did not venture on deck, 
 for such was the violence of the wind and the motion of the 
 ship, that it was almost impossible to stand up : even the sai- 
 lors required the help of ropes stretched along on each side of 
 the ship. The rapidity and order with which every thing was 
 conducted during this time was admirable ; there was no noise 
 or bustle among them. Excepting now and then the shrill 
 whistle of the boatswain, nothing was heard but the rushing of 
 the furious element through the shrouds, and the tumbling and 
 roaring of the sea around us. The appearance of the sun and 
 the gradual subsiding* of the tempest was a reason of joy to me; 
 but the hardy mariners, accustomed to all weathers, scarcely 
 considered it a circumstance of sufficient importance to produce 
 any alteration in their feelings. 
 
 The wind continued baffling, with occasional squalls, and a 
 great deal of rain ; and as it continued to hang to the east and 
 north-east, we were delayed in getting our easting until about 
 the 27th. In the latitude of twenty-four degrees north, and. 
 longitude thirty-three degrees thirty minutes west, we took a 
 fresh trade from the east. We now fell into the track of ves- 
 seta bound from Europe to the West Indies. Several of these 
 vessels were spoken by us ; one of them had been sixty-three 
 days from Bremen, and was bound to Havanna. The extraor- 
 dinary length of this passage is to be attributed to the exces- 
 sive caution of Dutch navigators, who lay-to on the slightest 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 11 
 
 occasion, and always carry but little sail. The Americans are 
 probably the boldest navigators in the world, and yet are uni- 
 versally admitted to be the most fortunate. A timid precaution 
 in avoiding every visible dang-er, very often exposes us to still 
 greater dangers which we do not foresee. 
 
 On the 2d of January we found ourselves, by the chronome- 
 ter, within sixty miles of the island of Brnva, one of the Cape 
 de Verds. An indication, still more certain, was the great 
 number of birds flying about us, principally the species called 
 the man-of-war bird, which is rarely seen at greater distance 
 than a degree from land. For an account of these islands 1 
 must refer the reader to Macartney's Embassy to China. To 
 many persons it is not known why vessels bound to parts of 
 South America beyond the equator, should thus be compelled 
 to stretch over to the coast of Africa, although the subject is 
 very familiar to navigators. On casting the eye upon the map, 
 it will be seen that Cape St. Roque, the most eastern point of 
 South America, projects into the Atlantic as far east as thirty- 
 three or thirty-four degrees west longitude, and thus forms in 
 fact the entrance of a vast gulf, of which that of Mexico is pro- 
 perly nothing more than the bottom, or recess. A powerful 
 north-west current constantly sets into this recess, with which, 
 as well as with the south-east trade-winds, vessels must con- 
 tend in attempting to double the cape too near the American 
 continent. Vessels happening to be driven too far to the west- 
 ward, must try to regain the point where they lost the variable 
 winds, so as to enable them to make their easting. Dreadful 
 shipwrecks have been known in consequence of crossing the 
 line too far to the west, and being thus driven on the coast. 
 Here is a great drawback on the intercourse between the 
 United States and the West Indies, with those parts of South 
 America which lie to the windward, especially beyond Cape 
 St. Roque. Navigators do not agree, however, as to the exact 
 point at which the equator should be crossed; for a too near 
 approach to the African coast is equally to be avoided. Instead 
 of the trade-winds, which constantly refresh the shores of the 
 American continent, the opposite coast of Africa is the region 
 of calms, more dreadful than tempests or hurricane. From ten 
 degrees north to the line, and between thirteen and twenty- 
 three degrees west longitude, there is a region of endless calm, 
 but not such as we fancy,to ourselves from the meaning of the 
 word; it is a succession of thunder-storms, heavy rains and 
 whirlwinds, with dreadful intermission of close and suffocating* 
 heat. To find a middle course is the aim of navigators. Much 
 has been said and written as to the best mode of avoiding this 
 «cylla and eharybdis, but it is pretty generally agreed, that ijt 
 
 C2 
 
12 Voyage to Buenos Ay res, 
 
 should be crossed between the twenty-seventh and twenty- 
 third degrees of longitude. Commodore Sinclare resolved to 
 take the mean between these two extremes. 
 
 We did not gain the regular north-east trade-winds until 
 after passing the islands before mentioned, and we had a great 
 run until we reached the seventh degree of north latitude, when 
 they gradually left us. From the 3lst of December until the 
 5th of January, we made upwards of nine hundred miles ; 
 after this a most distressing calm set in, which continued until 
 the 17th of the month. In the mean time, we were drifted by 
 an easterly current nearly two hundred miles; that is, from 
 about twenty-three to nineteen degrees west. This was one of 
 the most disagreeable periods of my life. It appeared as if we 
 had been condemned to perish in this dismal region : a black 
 sea around us, and above us a gloomy sky ; dark shapeless 
 clouds continually gathering, as if to contend with the sun, 
 whose fierce vertical rays, occasionally bursting forth, seemed 
 almost to burn. 
 
 The arch of the horizon was diminished in a most surprising 
 manner, as if presaging a dreadful storm. The decks were 
 kept wet and continually covered with awning-. An expression 
 of despondency was seen in the countenances of all, while the 
 vessel was rolling about on the heavy sullen waves. We were 
 continually watching every quarter of the compass, and endea- 
 vouring to catch once more a glimpse of hope from every 
 breath of air, scarcely sufficient to cause the sails to flap 
 against the masts. I called to recollection the celebrated 
 description of a calm at sea, by Marmontel. 
 
 We were at length favoured with occasional light Minds, 
 which drifted rather than wafted us towards the equator. Com- 
 modore Sinclare observes, " Had I been aware of circum- 
 stances which occurred, and which were beyond human wisdom 
 to foresee, I am under a belief that I could have shortened my 
 passage fifteen or twenty days. I was in the first instance 
 straining every nerve to gain easting before leaving the varia- 
 bles, which had been found so difficult to effect in the trade- 
 winds. I was driven in longitude forty-three degrees west, as 
 far south as latitude twenty-nine degrees north, when fearing 
 to enter the trades with so little easting, I tacked and stood 
 north, with the wind heavy from east-north-east, and after 
 getting as far north again as latitude thirty-four, I got a heavy 
 gale of wind from north-east, which blew so strong for about 
 forty-eight hours, I could not venture to avail myself of it in 
 steering to the south-east, but was forced to lay-to ; whereas, 
 had I been aware of the south-west winds between the trades, 
 which, with a strong easterly current, between latitudes four 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 13 
 
 degrees and thirty minutes, and one degree thirty minutes 
 north — longitudes twenty-three and nineteen degrees west, 
 which set from two and a half knots the hour to three-quarters 
 of a knot, and from east by north to east-south-east, until it 
 drifted us as much as two hundred miles to the eastward, (by 
 our chronometer) I might have ventured to have entered the 
 trades in longitude forty-three degrees— and saved all the 
 beating I afterwards had, to gain what I thought a prudent 
 longitude to venture out of the variables. I was under the im- 
 pression that I ought to lose the north-east trade at least as 
 high as twenty-two or twenty-three degrees west, as, from all 
 writers on this subject, you will find that from latitude five 
 degrees north, you get the wind from about south, which gra- 
 dually, as you approach the line, draws to south-south-east, and 
 after crossing it to south-east, which would force you down to 
 about twenty-seven degrees before you could gain the line, 
 from which point even it is not uncommon for dull-sailing ships 
 to fall in with the Brazil coast too far to the north." 
 
 When nearly under the line we were once more blessed 
 with clear skies, and a fine breeze drawing gradually round to 
 the south-south-east, while pleasure and cheerfulness again 
 lighted up the countenances of every one. The temperature 
 of the air was delightfully refreshing, and when contrasted with 
 the dismal regions we had escaped, it is impossible to describe 
 our satisfaction at the change. We crossed the line in longi- 
 tude twenty degrees twenty minutes, the breeze continuing to 
 freshen every hour. According to immemorial custom, the 
 usual ceremonies were performed on this important occasion, 
 and were productive of much innocent mirth and gaiety; but an 
 account of particulars would probably afford no entertainment 
 to the reader, as they varied but little from those which have 
 been so repeatedly detailed by voyagers. We had thus far 
 enjoyed excellent health, even the unpleasant calm we had ex- 
 perienced occasioned no sickness among the crew, owing in a 
 great measure to the cleanliness on-board American ships, and 
 the precautions so carefully taken. 
 
 Being- now fairly in the trades, our course was hardly iiu 
 terrupted for a moment; we had a steady breeze filling all our 
 sails, and a smooth sea. Nothing could be more agreeable 
 than the temperature of the air; the sails required little or no 
 attention, but there was no want of employment in this little 
 busy world. I could not have imagined such a variety of occu- 
 pations as the seamen were continually engaged in. The 
 officers, not on duty, spent their time in reading and study, 
 while the midshipmen, fifteen or twenty in number, were kept 
 closely to their books. There was no lounging, no idleness, 
 
14 Voyage to Buenos Ay res, 
 
 no silly gossipping, no loud talking; and as to intemperance, 
 this is regarded, on-board an American man-of-war, as a vice for 
 which there is no forgiveness. The north-star gradually dis- 
 appeared, and its place was imperfectly supplied by the con- 
 stellation of the cross, and the Magellanic clouds. The con- 
 stellations of the southern hemisphere are thought by some to 
 be more brilliant than those of the northern ; the sight of so 
 many new stars, which I had never expected to behold, and the 
 disappearance of the greater part of those I had gazed on from 
 infancy, naturally inspired a variety of strange sensations. The 
 brilliant phosphoric light which marked at night the track of 
 the ship, resembling that of the comet, very frequently amused 
 us, and caused our wonder, when we reflected that it was pro- 
 duced by myriads of small insects possessing the properties of 
 the glow-worm, or fire-fly. The flying-fish was occasionally 
 seen darting through the air for a few hundred yards, and then 
 plunging again into a more congenial element. They often 
 fall on-board merchant-vessels, but the height of the frigate 
 above the water prevented them from passing over us. In 
 latitude nine degrees south, we ran over a turtle of prodigious 
 size, which appeared to have been lying asleep on the surface 
 of the water; the nearest land was the island of Fernando de 
 Noronha, distant at least four hundred miles. 
 
 As we drew up M r ith the coast of Brazil, the lead was kept 
 continually going. On the 26th, we passed over a bed of coral 
 rock, much farther out than is laid down by any chart, and 
 kept soundings in thirty-five fathoms fors five or six leagues, 
 steering south-west, and suddenly fell off' into very deep water. 
 This spot was determined to be in south latitude twenty de- 
 grees thirty minutes, and in longitude thirty-seven degrees 
 thirty minutes, by a very good chronometer. 
 
 The hope of soon approaching land awakened a new interest 
 in our breasts. Even the hardy sons of the ocean seemed to 
 be cheered with the prospect; much greater therefore must 
 have been the gratification of mere landsmen. By our obser- 
 vations and reckoning, we expected by twelve o'clock on the 
 27th to make Cape Frio, a headland of great celebrity with 
 mariners. During- the greater part of the forenoon all were 
 anxiously looking out for if, and about one it was descried by 
 the man stationed at the mast-head; but it was not until two 
 or three that it could be seen from deck ; and even then for 
 some time only by those who were accustomed to distinguish 
 the loom of the land from the low clouds which skirt the hori- 
 zon. We found our reckoning within eighteen miles of being- 
 correct, having been set somewhat to the southward by a cur- 
 rent, which usually sets with the wind along the coast. By ob» 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 15 
 
 servation we were in twenty-three degrees nine minutes south, 
 and by chronometer in forty-one west. Cape Frio was seen at 
 the distance of fifteen or twenty miles ; its appearance is so re- 
 markable, and so easily recognized, from the description of 
 navigators, that it is impossible to mistake it. It seemed to be 
 a high promontory, its summit presenting a waving- line, with 
 places somewhat comical; and when first seen it has the ap- 
 pearance of two separate islands, from a hollow in the middle. 
 The clouds rested on its summit. It appeared to be an im- 
 mense naked rock, incapable of affording- sustenance to any 
 living thing, and yet I felt a kind of pleasure in contemplating 
 this hugh inhospitable mass, being weary of seeing nothing for 
 nearly sixty days but the sky and water. 
 
 Having ascertained where we were, the commodore gave 
 orders to stand along down the land, under easy sail. It was 
 somewhat squally during the night, as is usual in the neigh- 
 bourhood of these headlands. Before day it fell calm, when 
 we descried the sugar-loaf, the entrance of the harbour of Rio 
 Janeiro bearing west-south-Avest, at the distance of twenty 
 miles ; by which it appeared, that we had been set twenty-one 
 miles to the westward by the current. There appeared before 
 us an irregular line of high rocky coast, and a person not ac- 
 customed to measure distances by the eye, would have thought 
 himself not more than a few miles off, and the rocks, instead of 
 mountains, to be little more than a hundred feet high. The 
 sugar-loaf, a leaning cone, looked like a watch-tower at the ter- 
 mination of a high irregular rampart; it forms the western 
 portal of the entrance of the harbour, towards which it leans as 
 if frowning on those who approach. Immediately on the oppo- 
 site side there is the same kind of rock, though not quite so 
 high, but more broken and irregular. A light breeze spring- 
 ing- up from the land, we worked in towards the shore, and as 
 we approached discovered high mountains in the back-ground, 
 whose tops rose above the regions of the clouds. Every ob- 
 ject of nature is here on the boldest and most magnificent 
 scale. In the evening we came to anchor within a few miles of 
 the forts which command the entrance to the harbour, and 
 Lieutenant Clack was despatched by the commodore, to wait 
 on the commander of the fort and to obtain a pilot. The num- 
 ber of vessels continually entering and leaving the harbour, 
 gave us a high opinion of the commercial importance of the 
 city we were about to visit. The anchorage is excellent every 
 where along the coast. Before the entrance there are a num- 
 ber of small islands from two to six miles out, of various sizes 
 and appearances. They seem to be small detached knobs or 
 hills, gradually sloping on every side to the water's edge, with 
 
16 Voyage to Buenos Jlyres, 
 
 a thick covering of shrubs and vines, and their summits 
 crowned with palm-trees. They are uninhabited, although 
 some of them are several miles in circumference. The largest 
 vessel may sail with perfect safety between them, as the water 
 is, with scarcely an exception, bold and deep. 
 
 Early next morning, the pilot having come on-board, more 
 for the sake of complying with every necessary precaution than 
 because his services were necessary, we passed into the spa- 
 cious harbour of Rio. The entrance is about a mile wide, and 
 probably the safest and easiest in the world. We passed, on 
 the right, fort Santa Cruz, built upon a shelf of the rock, with 
 several tier of guns, and most formidable in its appearance. 
 Strong works are also erected on the steep rock behind it, from 
 which it is separated by a singular cleft, crossed by a draw- 
 bridge. On the left, under the sugar-loaf, there is another 
 fort, but comparatively of not much consequence; as the best 
 channel lies pretty close to Santa Cruz, vessels generally pass 
 directly under its guns. We passed another small fort just 
 within the harbour. The place is said to be very strongly for- 
 tified; it certainly possesses extraordinary natural facilities for 
 this purpose. It was forced about the beginning of the last 
 century by the celebrated French mariner, Dugai Trouin, who 
 took possession of the city, and laid it under contribution ; but 
 its fortifications were in consequence greatly improved. 
 
 As we entered the harbour, a most magnificent scene 
 opened upon us. The noble basin, scarcely surpassed by any 
 in the world, resembling a large lake rather than a harbour, 
 expanded majestically, bordered by high woody mountains, 
 interspersed with rocky peaks and precipices ; their ridges or 
 spurs sloping down to the water's edge, in some places termi- 
 nating abruptly, in others leaving narrow vallies and a thou- 
 sand beautiful coves or recesses, with sandy beaches. The 
 ridges or broken grounds, below the mountains, are covered 
 with convents, churches, and beautiful gardens, while the little 
 indents or sandy bays are occupied by elegant country-seats ; 
 a great many of them constructed by Portuguese noblemen, 
 since the establishment of the court at this place, or by Eng- 
 lish merchants, who have grown rich since the opening of 
 trade. A range of much higher mountains is seen to the north- 
 east, probably at least forty or fifty miles distant. The city of 
 Rio Janeiro, or'St. Sebastian, is built in one of the coves just 
 mentioned, under the mountain, the houses much crowded 
 together; and independently of the buildings perched on 
 heights, or raised on the neighbouring vallies, it would not 
 possess a very imposing appearance: but the quantity of ship- 
 ping gave proofs of a busy and active commerce. 
 
Ih 1817 and 1818. 17 
 
 The ship was scarcely moored in front of the city, when an 
 officer, dressed in rich uniform, came on-board; and had no 
 sooner set his foot on deck, than he became as familiar as if he 
 had been acquainted with us for twenty years. He spoke 
 very good English, and strutted about, repeating the expres- 
 sion, " d d fine ship, sir — very fine ship, indeed." He 
 
 went below with very little ceremony, and required no pressing 
 to refresh himself with a glass of wine. This lively fellow, 
 after cracking his jokes, took the liberty of putting a few queries 
 to the commodore, such as the name of the ship, the length of 
 her voyage, her destination, and her object in touching at this 
 
 Eort. Suitable answers having been given to these, he took 
 is departure, expressing- great admiration of what he had seen. 
 We learned from him that the Ontario, Captain Biddle, had 
 sailed from this place about a month before our arrival. A few 
 days afterwards, I saw this important personage sitting very 
 soberly in a room in front of the palace, where he is employed, 
 I understand, as a kind of messenger, or in some office to which, 
 we have nothing analogous in our country. According to 
 previous arrangement, salutes were fired, first twenty-one guns 
 for the king, which were returned by one of the forts, and 
 afterwards fifteen guns for the admiral, which he returned 
 from his ship, a seventy-four, lying- between us and the shore, 
 at the distance of a quarter of a mile. The Portuguese appear 
 to be extremely fond of expending- their powder; hardly an 
 hour of the day passed without the sound of cannon in some 
 direction or other. 
 
 I felt impatient to set my foot once more on the fixed and 
 stedfast earth, as well as some curiosity to behold this great 
 city, now the capital of the Portuguese empire.* In the after- 
 noon a boat put off for the shore, and some of us took advan- 
 tage of this opportunity. Our ship lay about half a mile off, 
 and we had to pass the vessels of war, of which the Portuguese 
 have a number of various sizes, but not in the best order, and 
 badly manned. The merchant-vessels lie higher up towards 
 the fortified island, das Cobras, on the other side of which is 
 the inner harbour, at present filled with shipping'. We dis- 
 covered several American flags, and from the feelings which 
 they excited in us, I could almost be tempted to say, that we 
 are the most national people in existence. The circumstance 
 of our being a solitary republic, and therefore a continual tacit 
 censure on monarchy, perhaps induces us to believe, that kings 
 can have no cordial feeling towards us, and for this reason we 
 cling more closely together. It would be useless to conceal 
 
 * Rio Janeiro became the capital of Brazil in the year 1763, Bahia, or San 
 Salvador, being then stripped of that honour. 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No, 6. Vol. III. D 
 
IS Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 the truth : every American who goes abroad, has a contempt 
 for royalty and its attendants, and he is only restrained by pru- 
 dence or good manners from expressing- it. 
 
 The harbour of New York alone, can bear any comparison to 
 tliis place, in indications of commercial prosperity. A noble 
 spectacle is exhibited by the number of vessels, a great propor- 
 tion English, lying at the wharfs, or anchored in the stream. 
 Great numbers of small boats were continually moving* about, 
 rigged in a very awkward, clumsy manner, or rowed with a 
 slow and solemn stroke, as if to the tune of the dead march in 
 Saul. Among the watermen, a number were Indians; they 
 wore very broad straw-hats, like the 3ialays, but their physi- 
 ognomy bore a strong resemblance to the Aborigines of our 
 country. On approacbing- the queen's stairs, the usual landing- 
 place, we passed a yateh superbly gilt, rigged like a sloop of 
 war, and armed with brass swivels. This childish miniature is 
 kept for the use of the queen, or rather for the sake of pagean- 
 try, for I could not learn that it is ever used. Another object 
 excited our disgust; some distance to the left of the stairs, the 
 quay terminates in a prodigious dung-beap, the accumulation 
 of ages from the stables of the city. Possibly, from the ex- 
 treme fertility of the soil, manure is not required, but one 
 would think that a regard to the police of the city, would re- 
 quire a different disposition to be made of this offensive mass. 
 
 A motley collection of people, attracted by curiosity, were 
 lounging about the quay, their looks directed towards the 
 American frigate, as the principal object of their curiosity. I 
 shall not attempt to describe their dress or looks ; nothing could 
 be more unlike our countrymen. The English or French 
 fashions do not appear to predominate. Among these people I 
 felt, myself, indeed, a stranger; their countenances made a 
 very unfavourable impression on me, though by no means dis- 
 posed to judge hastily, for I have been too often taught, In- 
 experience, the danger of condemning people by wholesale, 
 merely on account of their looks. The complexions of the 
 middle and lower classes, are generally dark, their features 
 coarse, and their persons in general inclining to corpulency. 
 A number of them were distinguished by ribbons and baubles 
 attached to their button-holes, many wore enormous ill-con- 
 trived cocked-hats, and all appeared desirous to distinguish 
 their persons, by the wearing of some badge or uniform. 
 There was no smile of welcome to us in their countenances, 
 but rather repulsive half-scowling glances. A number of 
 them were priests, dressed in loose gowns, and wearing- hats 
 as broad as parasols. In front of the palace there is a large 
 open square, at the lower end of which is the king's chapel : 
 on the right, there is nn immense unfinished pile, intended as a 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 19 
 
 monastery, but, on the arrival of the king, a stop was put to 
 any further work on it, as he seemed to think that monks and 
 nuns formed already a sufficient proportion of his subjects. In 
 front of the palace there was a body of infantry constantly on 
 duty, but their arms, with the exception of those who stood 
 sentry, generally stacked ; but ever and anon the drum beats, 
 and they fall in. Towards the lower end of the palace, a si- 
 milar duty is performed by a troop of cavalry, but composed of 
 young men of distinction, as I presumed, from the richness of 
 their uniform and general appearance; they were almost the only 
 good-looking men I saw at Rio, and several of them were un- 
 commonly handsome. Below the landing there is a fountain 
 of fresh water, conveyed hither for the aqueduct, which is con- 
 stantly surrounded by a crowd of noisy negroes waiting for 
 their turn. I saw about twenty of these miserable wretches 
 chained together by the neck, and each one carrying a bucket 
 of water on his head: they relieved the bodily pain or suffer- 
 ing, by a kind of harsh noise, not unlike that made by a flock 
 of wild geese. I saw others hitched to carts, or carrying bur- 
 thens, and all screaming- in the same style, producing a general 
 effect, of which I can convey no idea. 
 
 A part of the square is taken up with some temporary works, 
 preparatory to the coronation or acclamagao, which we under- 
 stood was to take place in a few days; the ceremony, it is said, 
 has been thus long* delayed, principally on account of the ex- 
 pense. Rows of columns formed of boards, covered with can- 
 vass, painted to resemble marble, an obelisk, triumphal arches 
 of the same, and a Grecian temple, supported on pillars of the 
 like durable materials, were the most conspicuous among the 
 preparations for the important event. These fine things were 
 already going to decay, although it is probably not more than 
 a few weeks since they were set up: I saw a part of a splendid 
 entablature literally in rags. 
 
 Two American gentlemen who had been at this place some 
 time, in the most friendly manner, offered to become our guides. 
 They first conducted us to a kind of boarding-house, where, 
 together with some other foreigners, they had procured lodg- 
 ings: for there is no respectable inn or coffee-house in the 
 city. I can scarcely imagine how they contrive to dispense 
 with what in our cities appear so necessary. After reposing 
 ourselves here for a short time, we proceeded to reconnoitre 
 the place. Our walk was extremely unpleasant, through 
 narrow and dirty streets, without side-walks. The houses in 
 general have a mean appearance, with projecting galleries on 
 the second story, which approach so near, that two persons might 
 almost shake hands across the street; probablv the ancient 
 
 D 2 
 
20 Voyage to Buenos Ay res, 
 
 Moorish taste. On account of the great number of old-fashioned 
 chaises, principally drawn by mules, which dashed along" 
 without paying much attention to any one, we were constantly 
 exposed to the danger of being run over. Great numbersrode 
 also on stud-horses of a small size, whose tails swept the ground, 
 but a still greater number of both sexes were carried about in a 
 kind of sedan-chair, of a curious construction, and generally 
 ornamented with gilding. The curtains were sometimes drawn 
 aside for the purpose of peeping out. The men who were 
 thus carried along, were generally priests and nobles, as I 
 judged by their costume and decorations; for it is not the 
 practice in this country, to lay aside any insignia of distinction, 
 to be used only on days of ceremony or parade. Nothing sur- 
 prised me more, than the number of persons I saw in the street 
 with decorations of one kind or other ; I could not but think, 
 that in becoming so common, and being so frequently exhibit- 
 ed, they must cease to impart dignity or importance to the 
 wearers. Contrasted with the habits and opinions of our coun- 
 try, where man is by nature a noble and dignified being, this 
 idle and silly display produced in my mind the very reverse of 
 respect. 
 
 The town seemed to be crowded with inhabitants of every 
 colour and hue, but the proportion of those, who with us would 
 be called white, was by far the least considerable. The Por- 
 tuguese are generally of a very dark complexion, but the num- 
 ber of negroes and of the mixed race was such, as to give a 
 different cast in the general appearance of the population, from 
 that of any town I have ever seen. We were frequently met 
 by pairs of lazy lounging soldiers, who, it seems, are con- 
 stantly walking in the streets, with their bayonets, for the pur- 
 pose of preventing disturbance ; their insolent deportment to 
 the lower classes of people, gave the most certain indications 
 of a despotic government. Where the common soldier thinks 
 himself above the mechanic or artizan, and the officer occu- 
 pies a rank distinct from, and above the people, civil liberty is 
 scarcely more than a name. In the new part of the city the 
 houses are better constructed, but the best have but an indif- 
 ferent appearance when compared to those in our cities ; they 
 seem also to be constructed on a plan calculated to insure a 
 jealous seclusion from every human eye. We visited the pub- 
 lic gardens so particularly described in Macartney's Embassy, 
 but whether it Mas owing to the season, this being the period 
 of frequent rains, or whether attributable to neglect, we found 
 them in a very different state from that which we had been led 
 to expect. We saw but few people in them, and these not of 
 the most prepossessing appearance. In the shrubs and trees of 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 21 
 
 the garden, I saw but little to attract my attention, except the 
 coffee-plant which grows here in great perfection, and which 
 was at this time loaded with berries. As to much of what I 
 bad seen thus far, I found that my residence in New Orleans 
 had [made me acquainted with many objects which a citi- 
 zen of our middle or northern states, who has never been 
 abroad, would contemplate with wonder. On our return to- 
 wards the quay, we stepped into the king's chapel, where we 
 were told mass had just been said for the Princess Charlotte 
 of England ; the news of whose death had reached Rio some 
 time before our arrival. There was a great profusion of orna- 
 ments and gilding through the chapel, and behind the altar a 
 picture of the royal family, no way remarkable for design or 
 execution. The priest who had been officiating, a man of gi- 
 gantic stature, and exhibiting strong indications of good feed- 
 ing, brushed hastily past us towards the door, with long 
 strides, in order to take a look at our frigate, which was then 
 firing a salute; he was careful, however, although in great 
 haste, and his mind occupied with the idea of powder and 
 smoke, to bow his knee before a crucifix which he had to pass. 
 I shall not stop to describe the dinner, which was partly 
 American, and partly in the style of the country. The fish of 
 Rio are excellent, the poultry is good, and the beef very in- 
 different. The vegetables are uncommonly fine, the potatoes 
 are imported from Great Britain. The desert was composed of 
 a great variety of fruits and sweetmeats ; the fruits were melons, 
 bananas, mangoes, oranges, and a number of others peculiar to 
 the climate : to the natives, all no doubt exquisite, but by a 
 stranger, even some of those that are most esteemed, are not 
 relished at first. In the immediate vicinity of this place, our 
 northern fruits do not succeed so well; but in the high moun- 
 tains, to the south-west, I am informed they do. Among the 
 guests at table were two young- men, one a Portuguese, and 
 the other a Frenchman by birth ; they were both addressed 
 Signor Conde, or count, and wore small slips of ribbon in their 
 button-holes. What rank of nobility they held I did not know, 
 they were plain and modest in their demeanor, and but for the 
 designation before-mentioned, I should have taken one of them, 
 who had been touching the piano, for a music-master, and the 
 other for a teacher of the French language. The Frenchman 
 was the more communicative of the two ; and in a conversation 
 with him, he gave me to understand that he was in some kind 
 of public employment. I put a number of questions to him 
 respecting the country, but found that he knew very little of 
 the subjects on which I was desirous of being informed. He 
 contented himself with declamation on the magnificence of the 
 
22 Voyage to Buenos Ay res, 
 
 .Brazilian empire, and spoke with some warmth of the endea- 
 vours of the British government to persuade the royal family 
 to return to Lisbon. He declared, that they would never be 
 able to prevail on the king to exchange his present high and 
 independent situation, in order to place himself once more 
 under the wing of English protection. The English had been 
 greatly disappointed and chagrined by this resolution, but had 
 not yet abandoned the hope of prevailing- on him to change it. 
 There may be a more powerful reason than the mere pride of 
 royalty, for not taking this step ; it is the uncertainty of his being 
 able to retain this immense country by any other mode than a 
 permanent transfer of his residence. It would be utterly im- 
 possible to reduce the Brazils once more to the colonial state, 
 after having once enjoyed an exemption from the colonial res- 
 trictions. It is as difficult as it is disagreeable, to contract 
 one's self after having filled a considerable space. One might as 
 well expect to see a youth, who had escaped the restraint of 
 his tutor, return to his pupilage without a struggle. The Por- 
 tuguese royal family never will, nor ever can, quit the JBrazils, 
 unless driven away by the inhabitants. The numerous res- 
 traints that have been taken off" since they ceased to be a co- 
 lony, and their rapid expansion, each day increases the diffi- 
 culty of putting them back to the colonial state. 
 
 After dinner we strolled into the garden, shaded with a 
 great many beautiful trees, and adorned with all the rich lux- 
 uriance of tropical vegetation. The country-seats along the 
 road on each side, reminded me a good deal of the vicinity of 
 New Orleans. The day was extremely fine, though rather 
 hot, but not more so than a warm day in June or July in the 
 northern parts of the United States. In front of the house, at 
 the distance of a few hundred yards, the mountain rose in bold 
 and rude masses, in some places presenting nothing but a 
 naked precipice of granite; in others, covered with a great va- 
 riety of beautiful shrubs and trees. A naked peak, called the 
 Parrot Head, intercepted the clouds above us. Its height is 
 2500 feet; there is a path which leads »o the top, but so Mind- 
 ing, that the ascent is at least five or six miles. 
 
 The whole district of Rio Janeiro is exceedingly mountain- 
 ous, and its vallies are in general deep and narrow. The 
 mountains are not as lofty as those of Switzerland, but resem- 
 ble them more than our Alleghanies. Though not covered 
 with snow, they sometimes let loose upon the vallies, what is 
 even more dreadful than the Avalanche ; huge masses of earth 
 loosening from the rock, by the moisture insinuated between 
 them in the rainy seasons, slip down, and overwhelm every 
 tliino below. It is not Ions* since an instance of this kind oc-» 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 23 
 
 curred, when more than fifty families were buried alive. In 
 tho afternoon, the sun having- disappeared behind the mountain, 
 its broad shade was now spread over us, and we seated our- 
 selves on the terrace, in order to enjoy the cool air. It was 
 not long before we discovered a cavalcade coming- along the 
 road. Mr. Sumpter informed us, it was some of the royal 
 family taking an airing, and that they very frequently passed 
 tin's way. A couple of Indian-looking dragoons gallop up, 
 their swords rattling- by their sides. They were followed at a 
 very considerable distance by several indifferent old-fashioned 
 carriages, carrying the great people. On approaching- the house 
 they stopped a few moments, and spoke in a familiar, friendly 
 manner, to 3Iiss Sumpter. The queen and princesses were 
 plain in their dress, and in their manners affable and polite. 
 But for the guards and retinue, I should have taken them to 
 be of the respectable class of citizens. I have seen much more 
 parade in the great people of our own country. I should have 
 felt, I must confess, less respect for royalty, if I had seen it on 
 this occasion arrayed in the pomp and magnificence I had 
 figured to my imagination. Although I had read a great deal 
 of kings, and queens, and princesses, I had no idea that I 
 should feel so little of that awe, supposed to be produced by 
 the irradiations of majesty. Paine observes, " that kings, 
 among themselves, are good republicans ;" and being of a 
 country where every citizen is a sovereign, I merely looked 
 upon these people as my equals. The princess Leopoldina 
 was distinguished from the rest, by the fairness of her com- 
 plexion ; I saw nothing remarkable in her appearance, and 
 there are thousands of my countrywomen I would choose in 
 preference for a wife. It is said her situation is extremely 
 unpleasant, in this barbarous land, a land removed so far from 
 (he commonweath of courts, and seemingly fitted only for vul- 
 gar republicanism. A number of scandalous stories are related 
 respecting- the bickerings, and quarrellings, and parties, in the 
 palace ; for the house is said to be divided against itself. The 
 cavalcade proceeded along the beach ; on passing the barge's 
 crew, composed of twenty-four of our best-looking men, and 
 such as could hardly be picked out of the whole city, these 
 manifested their politeness by touching- their hats, and received 
 in return a most gracious inclination of the head from mighty 
 queens and peerless princesses. Royalty stopped some min- 
 utes to contemplate the manly erect figures and open counte- 
 nances of freemen, glowing with the youth and health of our 
 northern climate ; and was no doubt struck with the contrast 
 between these modern Greeks, and its own vile, degraded slaves, 
 of the same calling- or occupation. Our proud, spirited fellows, 
 
24 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 did not, however, choose to imitate the Portuguese, by falling 
 on their knees, until majesty passed by ; a species of idolatry 
 which experienced a salutary check in the person of Mr. 
 Sumpter, some time ago. The incident has been related in our 
 newspapers : I shall here give it as I had it from the minister 
 himself. The guards who precede her majesty were in the 
 habit, without respect to persons, of compelling them to dis- 
 mount and stand with the hat off, until the whole retinue had 
 passed ; the insult had been borne without resistance by all the 
 foreign agents here, except the American, whose republican 
 pride could not be brought to stoop to this degradation. He, 
 was, however, desirous to avoid, if possible, bringing the matter 
 to issue. It was at last thrown upon him by necessity; being- 
 unable to avoid the cavalcade, he stopped his horse, and saluted 
 the queen ; but this was not satisfactory to her majpsty, who is 
 represented to be a proud and haughty woman. She ordered 
 her guards to compel him to dismount; but on making the at- 
 tempt, by brandishing their swords, the American minister 
 stood on the defensive with his stick; on which they retreated, 
 and he went on, leaving her majesty highly offended. The 
 Portuguese minister remonstrated, urging the example of other 
 foreign agents who had submitted; but Mr. Sumpter declared, 
 that if others tamely put up with such insults, it was no reason 
 why he should. He now went armed, and a second attempt 
 being made similar to the first, he was very near shooting- 
 the guard. The subject was brought before the king by com- 
 plaints on both sides ; the king inclined in favour of the 
 Americau minister, and apologized for the insult he had re- 
 ceived, at the same time giving assurances that it should not 
 be repeated. The queen, determined not to be out-done, being- 
 met again, some time afterwards, she stopped her carriage, 
 and ordered her guards, ten or twelve in number, to go for- 
 ward and compel the proud republican to pay the just homage 
 to royalty. Mr. Sumpter, who continued to go armed, drew 
 his pistols, dashed through them, approached the queen's car- 
 riage, and in a determined manner reminded her of the assur- 
 ances lately given by the king, asserting his determination 
 never to submit. He went immediately to the king-, 
 stated what had passed, declared that he considered his 
 life unsafe, as the queen seemed determined, and he was 
 himself equally so. The king appeared much hurt, and in- 
 sisted on making an apology with his own hand, which was 
 actually done. He ordered the guards to be imprisoned, and 
 offered to have them punished ; but Mr. Sumpter, whose ideas 
 of justice were somewhat different, requested this might not 
 be. The other foreign ministers offered to join Mr. Sumpter 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 25 
 
 in a remonstrance, but the object was already gained, as the 
 new order extended to all. 
 
 Mr. Sumpter entertained a high opinion of the liberality 
 and good intentions of the king ; but thought him much at 
 the mercy of his ministers. He is fond of seeing strangers* 
 and there is no great difficulty in being presented. It is usual 
 for commanders of ships-of-war, touching at this place, to go 
 through this ceremony. Commodore Sinclare, according to 
 custom, was presented by our minister at the country palace a 
 few miles from town. He describes him as rather below the 
 middle size, enormously fat, of very dark complexion, large 
 black eyes, with a good-natured face. He was in a military 
 dress, spoke in French to Mr. Sumpter, and asked the com- 
 modore a great many questions respecting his profession and 
 country. He professed a great respect for the government of 
 the United States, and declared himself extremely desirous of 
 cultivating its friendship ; this, he said, he valued highly, be- 
 cause he knew when we professed a friendship it might be 
 safely relied on. In withdrawing, it is the custom to imitate 
 the movement of a certain animal, not yet the most graceful 
 of the creation, as it is considered indecorous to turn one's 
 back upon the king; the audience-room being very long, the 
 commodore found it inconvenient, and not a little difficult, to 
 back out with safety and grace. The commissioners did not 
 think proper to claim the honour of a presentation ; having no 
 communication to hold, they could only be regarded here in 
 the light of private citizens. 
 
 The day after our visit to Mr. Sumpter, a little excursion 
 was agreed upon by Mr. Reed and myself, with Dr. Baldwin, 
 the surgeon of the Congress, and whose reputation, as a natu- 
 ralist, is well known. We were desirous of ascending to the 
 top of the Parrot's Head, which we were informed might be 
 accomplished in a day. On our arrival at Mr. Sumpter's, he 
 politely furnished us with a guide, and we proceeded some dis- 
 tance through a valley, which gradually narrowed as we went 
 up a rapid mountain-stream, brawling among loose rocks and 
 stones. A number of negro washerwomen were plying their 
 tasks on its borders. On each side of us we saw bare masses 
 of granite of great height, the water oozing from underneath 
 the vegetation on their summits, and in some places the drip- 
 
 Eings, collected into a tolerable stream, rushed down several 
 undred feet. In the season of drought the streams are said 
 to fail, which may possibly be owing to their not being so well 
 supplied with perennial fountains, but in the manner I have 
 described. 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. C. Vol. HI. E 
 
2(5 Voyage to Buenos Ayres. 
 
 At this season, clouds are continually setting on the tops of 
 the mountains, and descending- in vapour. The droughts of 
 summer are among- the most serious complaints in a great part 
 of Brazil, especially to the west of the first range of moun- 
 tains. We were greatly surprised to see so much good soil, 
 and such marks of industry and cultivation, where we expect- 
 ed to find every thing waste and barren. In every little wind- 
 ing of the torrent, or shelf of rock, the ground was cultivated, 
 and a neat cottage of brick, covered with burnt tiles, peered 
 amid the thick verdure of tropical fruit-trees. The chief cul- 
 ture near the city is grass, which is cut daily, and carried to 
 town for the supply of the immense number of domestic ani- 
 mals, kept for the pleasure or use of the inhabitants. They 
 cultivate, besides, Indian-corn, coffee, bananas, mangoes, 
 oranges, and the king of fruits, the pine-apple.* 
 
 To describe the richness, variety, and beauty of nature, as 
 she appears in these countries, is impossible. Nothing so 
 much strikes the stranger with wonder, as the luxuriant garb 
 with which the earth is clothed in tropical climates ; he sees 
 plants and trees entirely new to him, or the few that he has 
 known rising here to a gigantic size ; shrubs have become 
 trees, and humble herbs enlarged to shrubs. He sees here, 
 in their native splendour, those productions of the vegetable 
 kingdom, which he was accustomed to admire in hot-houses. 
 Among the most conspicuous are the palms, of many different 
 kinds, the opuntia, and others so often described by travellers 
 in these regions ; pyramids of the most beautiful flowers, be- 
 sides a number of aromatic plants, shed a delightful fragrance; 
 and, as if nature was not satisfied with the exuberance of the 
 earth, a numerous race of parasytes attach themselves to the 
 boughs and trunks of trees, receiving their nourishment from 
 the air. The whole forms a solid perennial impenetrable mass, 
 bound together with innumerable vines or creeping plants. 
 
 Nature seems no less prolific in animated creatures — birds 
 of the most brilliant plumage, and the most melodious song — 
 thousands of insects of the most beautiful colours fill the 
 thickets. Innumerable species of lizards are moving in every 
 direction ; and it is said that no country is more bountifully 
 replenished with snakes aud venomous reptiles ; though we 
 are informed that the inhabitants experience less uneasiness 
 from them than we should imagine. 
 
 * A Portuguese poet has the following conceit : — 
 He o regio Ananuz, fructa tao boa, 
 Que a mesma Natureza namorada 
 Quiz como a Rey cingilla de Coroa. 
 
In 1617 and 1818. 27 
 
 Dr. Baldwin, who lost no time in examining the plants with 
 the eye and skill of the botanist, expressed himself highly gra- 
 tified. For my part, although at first, as it were, overpowered 
 with admiration and astonishment, I must declare, that, on re- 
 flection, I preferred the wild forests of my own country, al- 
 though stripped of their leaves during a portion of the year. 
 The vegetation is not so strong and so vigorous, but it is more 
 delicate and pleasing to the eye than this unshapen exube- 
 rance. When I recollected how often I have wandered along 
 a meandering stream in the shady groves of oak, hickory, 
 poplar, or sycamore of my native country, under whose boughs 
 soft grass and flowery herbs spring up as a carpet to the feet, 
 I could not but give them the preference to the forests of the 
 tropic. It is difficult to conceive how the Indians of this 
 country can make their way with any facility through this con- 
 tinuous hedge. It is not, however, for me to judge of a vast 
 country from the little I have seen ; but if all be like this, and 
 I am informed it is so, give me my native groves in preference 
 to all the glories of the south. 
 
 After proceeding about two miles in this manner, we began 
 to ascend the mountain by a very steep and winding path. 
 We found this exceedingly fatiguing, which Mas probably, in 
 some measure, owing to our having been so long shut up and 
 deprived of the usual exercise of our limbs. It was fortunate 
 that the day was cloudy, otherwise we should have been un- 
 able to withstand the heat. On each side of the path, to our 
 surprise, we observed a number of small patches of cultiva- 
 tion. When about two-thirds of the Avay up, we came to a 
 place where the water rushes down the rock, in a small clear 
 stream ; it was to us a most delicious treat, after having suffer- 
 ed much from thirst. In these climates, where an eternal sum- 
 mer reigns, there can be no object so delightful to the eye as 
 the cool stream gushing from the fountain. We threw our- 
 selves upon the rock, which was shaded by enormous trees; 
 drank freely of the water, and with reluctance thought of 
 quitting the spot. Here commences the aqueduct which sup- 
 plies the city, and chiefly from this fountain. It is a work 
 which does much credit to the viceroy, by whom it was con- 
 structed, in the year 1740, as would appear from the inscrip- 
 tion. It is received in a kind of funnel, built of brick, about 
 five feet high, and about three in width ; it passes along the 
 apex of the ridge, which gradually declines to the plain of 
 Rio Janeiro, where, instead of being received into pipes, it is 
 carried into the city by an aqueduct composed of a double 
 row of arches, intended probably for ornament, at it cannot be 
 supposed, that, like the ancients, the constructors were igno- 
 
 E2 
 
28 Voyage to Bueno* Ayres, 
 
 rant of the principles of hydraulics. This work is, at present, 
 in a bad state of repair, but we observed that workmen had 
 been, for some time, engaged in enlarging and improving it. 
 The prospect from this place is one of the most magnificent I 
 ever beheld. The scenery around the bay is like that on the 
 borders of some extensive lake ; on the eastern side, instead 
 of the immense mountains which enclose it on every other, 
 the country is beautifully sloping, and, with the aid of a spy- 
 glass, we could discover plantations of coffee, or cotton, on a 
 much larger scale than any we had seen in the course of our 
 walk. Towards the north-east, at a great distance, we could 
 discern the Organ-mountains, so called from a number of sin- 
 gular peaks, apparently at the termination of the ridge from 
 their unequal elevation, and resembling huge basaltic columns. 
 The bay, or rather lake, was studded with a great variety of 
 beautiful islands, one of them, perhaps the largest, several 
 leagues in circumference. A number of small villages could 
 be distinguished at intervals, and the water-prospect was enli- 
 vened by a great number of vessels of different kinds. 
 
 The fatigue and labour we had encountered, and the time 
 Me had consumed in scrambling- up the mountain thus far, 
 discouraged us from attempting to accomplish our first design. 
 It seemed to us, in fact, that we had scarcely gained more 
 than the foot of the mountain we had intended to scale. We 
 approached near enough, however, to form a tolerable idea of 
 the Parrot's Head ; we could distinctly see it to be a huge flat 
 rock, laid horizontally as a kind of cap-stone, on the top of a 
 bare mass of granite; and from some rude resemblance, which 
 I could not discover, it had received its name. Below it, on 
 the same ridge, stands the sugar-loaf, whose summit appeared 
 to be on a level with us, but could hardly have been so, as its 
 height is estimated at 900 feet from the water's edge, though 
 not half that height on the side where it ioins the ridge. JBe- 
 
 I'll" 
 
 hind us the mountain rose to a great height, and was covered 
 with trees of a prodigious size. Having determined to return 
 to the city, we followed the path along the side of the aque- 
 duct, and with a much more gradual descent than that by 
 which we had ascended. On our way we remarked a consi- 
 derable space where the granitic rock, from which the soil had 
 slipped off, >vas apparently in a state of decomposition ; the 
 point of a cane was thrust in, without experiencing any greater 
 resistance than from stiff clay ; this was also the case With the 
 broad veins of spar with which the mass was penetrated. As 
 we approach the city, the path gradually widened, and within 
 a mile we found a spacious sloping walk, planted on each side 
 with beautiful trees, of which we found the advantage ■»{ this 
 
In 1817 awt/1818. 29 
 
 time, as the sun was beginning to send forth his rays unob- 
 structed by friendly clouds. We were accosted repeatedly by 
 negroes, who offered to sell us some of the beautiful insects of 
 the country, upon which they had been taught to place a value, 
 probably by the recent visit of the European philosophers, or 
 by persons employed to make collections for European cabinets. 
 We remarked a number of the lower ridges or mounds carefully 
 cultivated in grass ; but the declivity was such as to require 
 them to be crossed in every direction in a reticulated manner, 
 with narrow paths. We observed, in one instance, a deep vale 
 but of small extent; enclosed on three sides by steep hills, and 
 on the only side where it was open, occupied by a neat dwell- 
 ing, a garden, and some adjoining buildings. This vale, which 
 could not have contained more than a few acres, was all in grass, 
 and being shaded nearly the whole day by the mountains on 
 each side, and the trees growing on them, had the appearance 
 of being a cool and delightful retreat. I have been thus particu- 
 lar in my account of this little ramble, because it has enabled 
 me to describe many of the features which are probably common, 
 if not to the whole, at least to a very great proportion of Brazil. 
 It is at least a specimen of the mountainous country. 
 
 During our short stay at Rio, we neglected no opportunity of 
 making ourselves acquainted with the manners and customs of 
 the place, and in collecting every information, curious or useful. 
 Scarcely any city in America has been so often spoken of by 
 voyagers, as it has been the great stopping-place of those bound 
 on voyages of discovery to the South Seas, as also of vessels 
 bound to the East Indies. We preferred remaining on ship- 
 board for various reasons; one was, that we should thus escape 
 the annoyance of insects and vermin we should have to encoun- 
 ter at the wretched inns of the city. Another reason was, that 
 on the water we enjoyed a cooler air than we could in a town, 
 which was hemmed in by mountains. We were in fact much 
 more comfortably situated than we could possibly be in the city, 
 and as the boats were continually plying to the shore, we could at 
 any time gratify our wish to go there. In theshade, the thermo- 
 meter seldom rose above eighty -four degrees of fareinheit, but 
 the temperature was rendered more supportable by the land and 
 sea-breezes. The most disagreeable part of the day was from 
 eight until ten or eleven, until the sea-breeze gradually fresh- 
 ened. In the afternoon, during at least three days in the week, 
 the clouds gathered, and after some thunder and lightning, they 
 descended in rain ; the nights were extremely pleasant and cool. 
 During one or two days we had a tolerably stiff breeze, so as to 
 render it somewhat unpleasant to pass from the boats to shore; 
 
30 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 no wind, however, can ever blow so as to endanger the safety 
 of the vessels at anchor.* 
 
 This country is extremely healthy, except in the vicinity of 
 particular situations. From the little attention of the police at 
 Rio, and the stagnant waters in its immediate vicinity, it is only 
 surprising that it has never been visited, at least very seriously, 
 by the fevers which are so dreadful a calamity to other cities 
 situated in similar climates. No people in the world enjoy 
 better health than the inhabitants of the country. The residents 
 of the city appear to be, especially in the lower classes, ex- 
 tremely lively, active, and cheerful; but, from the facilities of 
 gaining a livelihood, and the frequent recurrence of holidays, 
 the greater part of their time is spent in amusements. Few 
 beggars are to be seen, and all, except the wretched brutalized 
 slaves, are decently clad. The streets swarm with children : 
 and, in the country, according to Langs dorff, they are even more 
 prolific than in the United States ; fifteen, and even twenty of a 
 family, being not unusual. Young children enjoy excellent 
 health, and are, in general, weaned young, and nourished with 
 the banana, which is extremely wholesome, and well adapted 
 for the purpose. The upper classes are said to lead a very in- 
 active and indolent life, consulting only the gratification of their 
 pleasures ; in consequence of which, their old age is overtaken 
 by chronic diseases, among them the elepkantiases, or swell- 
 ing of the legs, to such a degree as to bear a resemblance to 
 those of the elephant. I saw one case of this malady, at which 
 I was greatly shocked. The inhabitants in general are tem- 
 
 Kerate in their living; but, if we may credit the accounts we 
 ear, very depraved, as well as ignorant. This is not to be 
 wondered at, considering the nature of their composition ; all 
 the mechanics are either negroes or mulattoes ; and, indeed, al- 
 most every business which requires attention, and assiduity, is 
 pursued by coloured people, a great proportion of whom are free. 
 The people, in general, are sunk in the lowest state of po- 
 litical degradation; they know nothing of the measures of go- 
 vernment ; affairs of state are never the subject of their conver- 
 sation, unless indeed with a very small number among the 
 higher classes, who observe the greatest secresy and cau- 
 tion. The prejudice, with respect to complexion, did not ap- 
 pear to me as strong as in the United States. This may be 
 owing to the great number of persons of colour, who own large 
 
 * The Portuguese seventy-four parted lier cable, which only prov cd to in 
 that she wai miserably found. 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 31 
 
 fortunes, and possess wealth and consequence. I remarked 
 several mulatto priests, and in one instance a negro. 
 
 Among the better classes of the people, Lisbon is the model 
 upon which their manners are formed ; and it is probable, that 
 this has not changed since the arrival of the royal family. 
 The Portuguese are said to be the only people in Europe, who 
 preserve that Moorish jealousy, which has been banished even 
 from Spain. The female part of their families are shut up in 
 the strictest manner, and never venture abroad, unless it be to* 
 church ; and then, their faces wrapt up in a black mantle, 
 which passes over the head. Men seldom introduce their most 
 intimate friends to their wives or daughters ; and, except at the 
 theatre, they are rarely seen in public. Sometimes, indeed, 
 they venture to sit in the evening at their windows; and, from 
 their actions, strangers unacquainted with the customs of the 
 country, would be apt to form unfavourable inferences. The 
 throwing flowers at persons passing along, is known to be an 
 innocent display of gaiety, to which custom attaches nothing 
 improper. It is also very probable, that this frivolity is not 
 very common among the better class of people, and that stran- 
 gers, from observing these things in a few instances, of persons 
 of a different cast, have been led to form a mistaken idea of 
 the rest. The accounts given by Frezier and others, who con- 
 sider the Brazilian women as totally devoid of that delicacy 
 which characterizes the sex in other countries, and as conti- 
 nually engaged in the most shameful intrigues, cannot but be 
 exaggerated. At the same time, it is natural to suppose, that 
 when thus immured from society, and deprived of daily and free 
 intercourse with the world, those very effects would be produced, 
 against which this cruel jealousy is intented to guard. There 
 is but one day in the year, on which they are permitted to walk 
 freely abroad in the streets; a kind of saturnalia, as insulting 
 to them as their imprisonment. Marriages of inclination are 
 rarely made, they are usually bargains between the husband 
 and the parents. There is a species of cruelty practised by the 
 rich in the cities, that is really shocking to the mind of an 
 American. It is not uncommon for men to compel their 
 daughters to take the veil, merely with a view to preserve 
 greater wealth in the family, as, without this unfeeling practice, 
 they would be under the obligation of settling apart of their es- 
 tates as a marriage-portion, or for their support. 
 
 In consequence of this state of manners, society is on a 
 wretched footing at Rio Janeiro. Social intercourse is almost 
 exclusively confined to foreigners. The people of the country, 
 especially the small planters, are represented to be remarkably 
 kind and hospitable. Several of our officers, who made excur- 
 
32 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 sions around the shores of the bay, spoke very highly of the 
 civility and frankness with which they were treated by the pea- 
 santry, who live very much as in the United States, scattered 
 over the country. In a little excursion with Mr. Rodney, who 
 was extremely anxious to see the chirimoya, the most exquisite 
 fruit of South America, we landed near the cottage of a peasant 
 in search of it, and were treated by him in the most friendly 
 and hospitable manner. We did not succeed, the fruit being- 
 either known under a different name, or peculiar to Peru, where 
 Ulloa speaks of it. While on this excursion, we met several 
 German naturalists, who informed us that they were preparing 
 to set off in a canoe, or perogue, which they showed us, to coast 
 it along to Rio Grande. 
 
 There is but little skill displayed here in the mechanic arts. 
 Although they have the finest wood in the world for cabinet- 
 work, their furniture is very badly constructed, and the defect 
 is supplied by a profusion of gilding. They excel, however, in 
 making ornaments of gold, such as chains, crosses, &c. ; but 
 precious stones are not well set by them, and, in general, they 
 display but little taste. As to the fine arts, they are extremely 
 low. The king's library, of sixty thousand volumes, has been 
 thrown open for the use of the public; but within this capital 
 of a great empire, it will belong before there will be any thing 
 that will deserve the name of literature. The rich native in- 
 habitants have generally other tastes ; there is nothing to call 
 forth public discussions from the press; there is yet, in fact, no 
 public. The art of printing, itself, which was restricted in the 
 colonial state, is not yet sufficiently spread to satisfy the demand, 
 small as it is. There is more printing in any one of our small- 
 est cities than in all Brazil. A botauical garden has been es- 
 tablished in the neighbourhood of the city, and is said to be re- 
 spectable. There are but few of the usual accompaniments of 
 European monarchy. The king has imported a company of 
 opera-performers from Italy, at an expense that would build a 
 frigate. Several of our officers attended the theatrp, and spoke 
 highly of their performance. There is something truly ridicu- 
 lous in such importations, to a country which stands so much in 
 need of an increase of population. A royal amusement, for 
 which Lisbon is particularly celebrated, the bull-fights, has not 
 been successfully introduced here. Repeated attempts were 
 lately made in a circus erected near the country-palace, but they 
 utterly failed, as the bulls were found good for nothing, in all 
 probability to the great joy of the bull-fighters. 
 
 The cattle of this province are small; and the market is sup- 
 plied from Rio Grande or St. Catherine's; but, after being driven 
 several hundred miles in this hot climate, over the worst roads 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 33 
 
 in the world, they are miserably poor by the time they reach 
 this place. The crops of coffee, or cotton, from the interior, are 
 brought on the backs of mules, the former generally put up in 
 raw hides. I could not learn whether the cotton-gin has been 
 introduced, but 1 am inclined to think it has not. While we 
 were here, a cargo of wheat arrived from Chili. The market for 
 this article, or flour, is extremely uncertain, from the smallness 
 of the quantity requisite to supply it. The great body of the 
 people use the mandioca, not merely as a substitute, but even in, 
 preference. This root is of great importance throughout all 
 South America, and is cultivated with care. It yields two crops 
 a-year, and is prepared by boiling and expressing* the juice, 
 which is poisonous ; the sediment which remains, after pouring 
 off the water, is the tapioca of the shops. There is no doubt 
 but that the use of flour will increase, and, of course, the demand 
 from the United States, which can alwa) r s supply it on better terms, 
 and of a better quality, than La Plata or Chili, or the southern 
 provinces of Brazil. Grapes are raised at Rio, but not for the 
 purpose of making- wine. It is only in poor lands, and very po- 
 pulous countries, that the vine can be cultivated extensively; the 
 culture of cotton, tobacco, sugar, and indigo, are so much more 
 profitable, that it is not likely that wine will be made for use or 
 exportation. To the south, the vine flourishes much better than 
 in this province. 
 
 The inhabitants are represented as being much devoted to 
 the ceremonies of their religion. The Inquisition was never es- 
 tablished here, very fortunately for the Jews, who are numerous, 
 and whose outward conformity has never been strictly scruti- 
 nized. The kings of Portugal obtained from the pope, nearly 
 the same grant of ecclesiastical supremacy over their American 
 possessions, as the King- of Spain over theirs. There is a pri- 
 mate at St. Salvador, to whom all the churches of Brazil ac- 
 knowledge obedience. The chief business of the colonists of a 
 general interest, consists in the public ceremonies of their reli- 
 gion, such as processions in the streets, and masses. Devotion 
 has become rather a matter of amusement than a serious duty. 
 At every hour of the day, rockets are let off, a singular accom- 
 paniment to religious exercises.* The clergy are said to be li- 
 centious, and even the nuns have been spoken of, as not pos- 
 sessing the sanctity enjoined by their vows. An occurrence 
 
 * " The religious system, which held its empire with such happy effects so 
 long, has now some resemblance to a machine, of which the spring, by its 
 own internal working, has slackened at length, and wearing out." — Macart- 
 ney's Embassy. 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. 6. Vol. III. F 
 
34 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 took place some time ago, which scandalized the faithful, per- 
 haps, much more than acts of a more reproachful kind. Two 
 British officers, one a lieutenant, and the other a surgeon, of a 
 ship-of-war, prevailed on two of the nuns to elope with them: 
 the ladies fell upon the expedient of letting themselves down 
 from the second story window of the convent, by means of their 
 bed-clothes. The enamorada of the lieutenant came safely to 
 his arms, but the other had the misfortune to fall, and was so 
 severely hurt, that her lover, though a physician, could afford 
 her no relief, and was obliged to leave her behind. The lieu- 
 tenant carried his nun on-board the ship, and was married by 
 the chaplain. 
 
 An interesting description of the province of Rio Janeiro, is 
 given by the author of the Corographia. The name was given 
 to the bay in 1532, by the intrepid navigator de Sousa, in con- 
 sequence of his mistaking it for a river, and the name was ex- 
 tended to the province.* It was not settled until about the 
 year 1567, and after a French colony of Protestants, sent by 
 Admiral Coligny, had been dispossessed by the governor of 
 Bahia, or St. Salvador. Rio Janeiro did not become the capital 
 of the province until 16(>3, when the colony had acquired some 
 importance, and the value of this noble harbour was becoming- 
 better known. The province extends along the coast about 
 sixty leagues, and is about twenty-five in width. It is divided 
 into two parts by the Organ mountains. On the other side of 
 these is the river Paraiba, which flows between them and the 
 chain of 3Iantequera, in a valley not more than sixty miles 
 across in its widest part. This river takes its rise in the dis- 
 trict of St. Paul, and is navigable five or six hundred miles from 
 its mouth. About eight leagues below the town of Lorenzo, 
 where it has already acquired considerable volume, the whole 
 of its waters are compressed into a channel of five fathoms wide, 
 between two natural walls, upwards of seventy feet high, and 
 several hundred long. From the narrowness of its valley, it re- 
 ceives few rivers of any magnitude, although it discharges a 
 great body of water into the ocean. Its banks are highly cultiva- 
 ted ; some of the most valuable sugar-plantations of Brazil are 
 situated on them. With the exception of the district of Goyta- 
 cazes, the province is extremely mountainous. In the district 
 just mentioned, there are some lowlands, marshes, and swamps. 
 In the mountain-districts, it is natural to expect a number of 
 
 * A number of small rivers discharge themselves into the bay from the sides 
 of the Organ mountains which border on the western side, but none of tbein 
 navigable more than two or three miles. 
 
Iii 1817 and 1818. 35 
 
 cascades and water-falls ; no country can be more picturesque 
 and romantic. The fall of Tejouco, in the vicinity of the capital, 
 is particularly described, as being worthy the attention of those 
 who admire such objects. 
 
 The coronation, for which so much preparation had been 
 made, was at last announced for the 6th of February. The 
 morning was ushered in by salutes from all the forts, as well as 
 from the ships-of-war at anchor in the harbour. As a mark of 
 respect to the government of the country, whose hospitality we 
 enjoyed, the commodore joined the other commandery of foreign 
 vessels in firing a salute. All the ships were dressed in the 
 colours of the different nations of the world, and exhibited one 
 of the most splendid appearances I ever witnessed ; but whe- 
 ther to be attributed to accident or design, we know not; on ex- 
 amining the different flags, it was discovered that ours was not 
 among them. The commodore, on making this discovery, re- 
 solved to go no further in the demonstrations of respect for the 
 occasion. The ceremony took place about noon, in the Gre- 
 can temple we had seen in the public square. With the na- 
 ture of the ceremony I am unacquainted, as none of us were 
 near enough to see and hear. It was followed by the shouts of 
 the assembled multitude, and tremendous discharges of artillery, 
 which I thought would never cease. The regular troops, four 
 or five thousand, together with the disciplined militia about the 
 same number, had been drawn out, and, at the close of the ce- 
 remony, fired vollies of musketry. At sun-down, the firing of 
 cannon was renewed, first from the different forts in succession, 
 and then from the ships-of-war; and as the sound was repeated 
 by the echoes of the mountains, a tremendous roaring continued 
 even for some time after the firing had ceased. It was no sooner 
 dark than the illuminations, whose splendoureclipsed the starry 
 vault above us, were displayed along the whole front of the 
 city, and also from the different forts from the detached buildings 
 on the heights, and around the harbour. All the vessels, ex- 
 cept the Congress, which seemed to mourn the event, were also 
 illuminated in the most curious and tasteful manner. Nothing- 
 could have a finer effect than the glittering of so many lights, 
 and their brilliant reflection upon the water. The ingenuity 
 displayed in the arrangement of the illuminations, was very great. 
 By the aid of small glass lamps of various colours, a great va- 
 riety of curious and beautiful figures were formed, represent- 
 ing triumphal arches, temples, and a number of other objects. 
 Columns aud pyramids were erected, for the purpose of enabling 
 them to display curious festoons and other figures. Large sums 
 were said to have been expended by individuals, who vied with 
 each other in the taste and splendour of their illuminations ; and, 
 
 F 2 
 
36 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 in particular, the owner of a country-seat, fronting the harbour, 
 is said to have expended twenty thousand dollars ; a number of 
 laroe arches were raised on high columns, so contrived as to re- 
 present a crown, its base more than a hundred feet, and beauti- 
 fully proportioned, displaying - near the top the arms of Portugal. 
 The person who was thus distinguished in the display of his 
 loyalty, we were informed, had in view a title of nobility, being 
 only a rich plebeian. 
 
 The two succeeding days passed in the same way, until eyes 
 and ears could no longer bear this dazzling and astounding 
 manifestation. It was natural for us to draw a comparison 
 between the simple and unaffected ceremony of installing the 
 chief magistrate, chosen by a free people to guide their affairs, 
 and all this noise and glitter, calculated to intoxicate, astound, 
 and stupify, the human intellect. I could not but reflect how 
 small the number, among this wretched rabble, that reasoned, 
 justly and wisely, on the scene before them! It was not the 
 joyous emotions of the soul, but stupifying amazement. How 
 different is the enthusiasm of the free, from the noisy acclama- 
 tion of a people, who, without these artifices, would continue in 
 unchangeable dulness ! The real enthusiasm of a freeman 
 stands in no need of these aids. 
 
 The day after the coronation I went on-shore, in company 
 with some gentlemen of the ship. The city, as may be supposed, 
 was let loose ; all was noise, uproar, and confusion. Seeing 
 people going in and coming out of a long temporary building 
 on one side of the chapel, we approached, and were informed 
 we might enter. It was splendidly fitted up, probably for the 
 performance of some ceremony, as the regalia were displayed 
 on a table covered with rich purple ; the arms of Portugal were 
 also seen, and the whole was fitted up in a style of extraordi- 
 nary magnificence. At the door there were four or five priests, 
 who had fallen fast asleep, having, as I supposed, set up all the 
 preceding night, and it was now in the afternoon.* 
 
 The palace is a long row of buildings, no way remarkable in 
 point of architecture, but sufficient to lodge comfortably twenty 
 or thirty families. I saw a number of ladies seated on their 
 balconies, dressed in very splendid attire, and their heads 
 adorned with a profusion of feathers ; at first, we took them all 
 for princesses, but afterwards supposed that some might be 
 maids of honour. In front of the palace, there stood at least a 
 
 * Itwas humourously said, that numbers of the common people gazed on 
 the illnminatiuii with such blank amazement, as to fall asleep with their eyes 
 and months open, 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 37 
 
 dozen coaches, beside other carriages, waiting for some thirty 
 or forty of the royal family, who were going to the country-pa- 
 lace, whither the king had already gone. The coaches were 
 splendid things, very heavy, with much gilding about them, and 
 apparently not less than a hundred years old ; from which I 
 conjectured, that these vehicles were only used on great occa- 
 sions. The dresses of the coachmen, the postillions, of whom 
 there was one on every other mule, the footmen, and out-riders, 
 were the most outre imaginable ; their appearance carried me 
 back a couple of centuries at least, and led me to reflect hoio 
 much importance, in monarchies, is attached to antiquities. 
 Kings are very slow in adopting the improvements of the age 
 in which they live; they are almost as hard to civilize as our 
 North American Indians. I saw a great many of the nobility 
 running to and fro, and, from the richness of their decorations, 
 I judged of very high orders, such as gentlemen of the bed- 
 chamber, grooms of the stole, and royal rat-killers. I wish I 
 could speak with some respect of these things, but for my soul 
 I cannot; and I think it my duty to give to my countrymen a 
 true copy of the impressions left by them on my mind. Such 
 is the first coronation of a king in America — will it be the last ? 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Departure from Rio — Provinces of' St. Paul, St. Catherine, and 
 Rio Grande — Island of' Floras — Arrival at Monte Video. 
 
 Having no further business at this port, and the ship being 
 supplied with every thing necessary for the prosecution of the 
 voyage to La Plata, the commodore announced his intention to 
 put to sea. It had previously been intended to proceed to St. 
 Catherine's, for the purpose of procuring a tender to ascend the 
 Plata. The great draft of water of the Congress, (upwards of 
 twenty-two feet,) rendered it impossible to carry her up to 
 Buenos Ayres. Besides, the season of pamperos, or south- 
 west winds, Mas approaching, and from the known dangers and 
 difficulties of the navigation, the commodore felt a reluctance to 
 run a greater risk than was absolutely unavoidable. Partly, 
 however, in compliance with the wishes of the commissioners, 
 and partly in consequence of an understanding with Captain 
 Hicky of the Blossom, who was also bound for the river, he 
 changed his original intention, and resolved to go directly to 
 Monte Video, and there procure the necessary vessel. The 
 Blossom drawing much less water, and her commander having 
 
38 V °y a f/ e i0 Buenos Ayres, 
 
 some acquaintance with the river, it was thought that being- in 
 company with him would be an advantage of some importance. 
 
 From the 9th of February, the day of our departure, until 
 the 15th, nothing- material occurred in our voyage; we had ge- 
 nerally a fair wind, but were considerably detained by the slow 
 sailing- of the Blossom. The Congress was obliged to be 
 stripped of most of her canvass, so as to keep company with the 
 British ship, which was probably one of the d idlest sailors in 
 their navy. We now experienced, in latitude thirty-three de- 
 grees thirty-five minutes, ahead-wind, which continued from the 
 same point until the (9th. We had also to contend with a cur- 
 rent, which, along this coast, always sets with the wind. During 
 these four days we made about 100 miles by beating-, and in 
 latitude 33 deg. 39 min. south, stood into nine fathoms water, 
 hard sand, the water very thick and yellow. We could at this 
 time just discern from deck, the low broken sand-hills along- 
 this part of the coast. The commodore observed, that he would 
 not think it advisable to stand in nearer than twelve or thirteen 
 fathoms soundings, as every cast of the lead varies several fa- 
 thoms ; he ventured to act differently, only from the circum- 
 stance of there being another vessel sounding a-head. 
 
 We made Cape St. Mary's on the 19th, and were abreast of 
 the Island of Lobos at twelve o'clock of that night. The next 
 morning, at eleven o'clock, we were compelled to come to an- 
 chor in nineteen fathoms below this island, having been drifted 
 at least twenty miles during a calm which ensued, and which, 
 on account of the great draught of the Congress, operated more 
 powerfully on her than on the Blossom ; this vessel was now 
 out of sight. Having run down 12 or 1300milesof the Brazilian 
 coast, I shall avail myself of the opportunity to give the reader 
 a few sketches of the provinces along which we passed. 
 
 Next to the province of Rio Janeiro, on the coast, comes that 
 of St. Paul, which stretches along it about 400 miles, and is 
 about 500 in depth. It is bounded to the west by the great 
 river Parana, which separates it from the Spanish province of 
 Paraguay. On the south it is bounded by the Iguazu, and a 
 line drawn from this river to the small river St. Francisco, and 
 down to its mouth. It is one of the most fertile and delightful 
 provinces of South America. The great range of mountains 
 which here runs close along the coast, on the western side, is 
 a vast inclined plain, down which some of the largest branches 
 of the Parana flow into that immense river. The western slope 
 is so gentle as scarcely to be perceptible, and although not level 
 it can hardly be considered hilly or mountainous. On the eas- 
 tern side, the ascent is very steep ; the road from Santos to St. 
 Paul ascends a mountain 6,000 feet high, aud is perhaps the 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 39 
 
 most considerable work of this description in Brazil. From 
 this point, however, in following- the mountains to the southward, 
 they gradually retire from the coast, leaving- a broken country 
 between them and the sea, through which the Paraiba of the 
 south takes its course. Between these mountains and the 
 coast, an extraordinary number of cataracts and cascades are 
 formed, by the waters which are precipitated down the eastern 
 side. The navigation of the rivers, on the western side, is also 
 impeded by a great number of falls and rapids.; but the inter- 
 vals between the portages are navigated by large perogues, such 
 as are used on our western Waters, made out of the single trunks 
 of trees, of which there is an abundance on their banks, of a 
 prodigious size. The river Tiete, which rises near the city of 
 St. Paul, is generally used as the channel of communication to 
 the mines of Matto Grosso. After descending to the Parana, 
 they continue down its stream to the mouth of the Pardo, which 
 enters from the west, and up this river to the foot of a chain of 
 mountains, which they cross to the river Taquari, which flows 
 into the river Paraguay, above the Spanish possessions. The 
 inhabitants of St. Paul took advantage of this route at an early 
 period, for the purpose of committing depredations on the nu- 
 merous Indian tribes settled on that river. 
 
 The climate is probably the most pleasant in Brazil. Though 
 nearer the equator than the provinces of La Plata, the disad- 
 vantage is more than counterbalanced by its height ; the com- 
 mencement of the slope is 6,000 feet above the sea, and 2,000 
 feet above the inferior limit for the cultivation of European 
 grain. The thermometer descends as low as forty, though it 
 rarely rises above eighty. In the evenings, it is sometimes so 
 cold as to render necessary a change of clothes, and to make 
 use of brazeros.* In the vicinity of the capital, the tropical 
 fruits are not in as great perfection as they are on the sea-coast, 
 but in lieu of these, all the European fruits, apples, grapes, 
 peaches, are uncommonly fine. This delightful country may be 
 considered as still in a state of wilderness, and inhabited by a 
 number of savage tribes towards the Parana, who are conti- 
 nually at war with the Portuguese, and retain the same ferocity 
 as when the country was first settled. They must finally dis- 
 appear before the march of civilization. 
 
 The principal port is Santos, said to be safe and commodious, 
 but being merely the entrepot to St. Paul, as Laguira is to Ca- 
 raccas, the town is inconsiderable. The inhabitants of St. 
 
 * A kind of pan filled with embers, used by Spaniards and Portuguese, 
 instead of fire-places and chimnies. 
 
40 Voyage to Buenos Jlyres, 
 
 Paul are spoken of as the most hospitable and polished in 
 Brazil, which may seem somewhat extraordinary, considering* 
 their origin and their character half a century ago. The his- 
 tory of those people occupies one of the most conspicuous pages 
 in American annals; their character has been variously repre- 
 sented, and generally little to their advantage. Charlevoix, and 
 all the Jesuits, represent them in the most unfavourable light, 
 and they have been spoken of by most writers as barba- 
 rians, possessing, enough of civilization to render them formida- 
 ble, as well as mischievous. They have been also represented 
 as formino- a kind of military republic, like that of early Rome, 
 composed of outcasts and adventurers from all countries, under 
 a nominal subjection to the Portuguese, in virtue of which, they 
 paid a small tribute of gold and diamonds. A Portuguese 
 writer has undertaken to vindicate their character from these 
 imputations. Mawe, who is among the few Englishmen who 
 have visited their capital, speaks of them in the highest terms, 
 and seems indignant at the calumnies which have been circu- 
 lated respecting them. He places them above all the people he 
 saw in Brazil, for their highly-polished manners, and manly 
 frankness of character, traits by which they are every where 
 distinguished; but he does not reflect, that a century, or even 
 half a century, might produce a very material change in their 
 character. The accounts given of these people, as well as of 
 their enemies the Jesuits, by Southy, is certainly the most fair 
 and satisfactory. 
 
 The next province to St. Paul is that of Rio Grande. It is 
 about 500 miles in length, and 300 in depth, according to the 
 treaty of 1778, which excludes the Banda Oriental, but which 
 is claimed in Portuguese books of geography. The Uruguay has 
 its sources in the province to the west of St. Catherine's, and 
 flows several hundred miles through it before entering the 
 Banda Oriental. It is an inclined plain, like the province of St. 
 Paul, but more level ; it has a considerable ridge of mountains, 
 which separates the waters of the Rio Negro, the main branch of 
 the Uruguay,from the streams which fall into the lake dos Patos. 
 The climate is mild, but during winter a good deal exposed to 
 the south-west winds. The greater part of the country to the 
 southward, bordering on the Banda Oriental, consists of exten- 
 sive grassy plains, and is almost exclusively devoted to pas- 
 turage. Agriculture is comparatively but little attended to, al- 
 though the soil is extremely well adapted to grain of every kind. 
 
 The island of St. Catherine, in the northern part of this dis- 
 trict, is a place of considerable note. The harbour is one of the 
 best along the coast. The town contains about ten thousand 
 inhabitants, and is beautffully situated. The surrounding 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 41 
 
 country is very fine, and in a better state of cultivation and im- 
 provement than is usual in Brazil. From the abundant supply 
 of wood, water, and stores of every kind, it is a very common 
 stopping place. Few places offer greater advantages for ship- 
 building. The country and climate are so delightful, that many 
 persons come here from other provinces, in order to regain their 
 health; and gentlemen of fortune sometimes choose it as an 
 agreeable residence. Formerly there was a very important 
 whale-fishery here ; but of late years the whales have very 
 much diminished in numbers along this coast. Commodore 
 Porter, who touched at this place in his cruise, speaks of it in 
 the following manner: — "The houses are generally neatly 
 built, and the country at the back of the town in a state of con- 
 siderable improvement. But nothing can exceed the beauty of 
 the great bay to the north, formed by the island of St. Cathe- 
 rine's and the continent; there is every variety to give beauty 
 to the scene ; handsome villages and houses built around ; 
 shores which gradually ascend in mountains, covered to their 
 summils with trees which remain in constant verdure ; a climate 
 always temperate and healthy; small islands scattered here and 
 there, equally covered with verdure; the soil extremely pro- 
 ductive; all combine to render it in appearance the most de- 
 lightful country in the world." 
 
 We had at length reached the yawning estuary of La Plata, 
 whose width, estimated from the Cape St. Mary's to Cape St. 
 Antonio on the southern side, is one hundred and fifty miles. 
 It would perhaps be more proper to give this great opening the 
 name of bay or gulf. Its waters, though not fresh, are much dis- 
 coloured, but not much affected by the tides above Buenos 
 Ayres. Except the isle of Lobos, which can hardly be con- 
 sidered in its channel, there are no islands but that of Goriti, 
 which forms the harbour of M aldonado, and the isle of Flores 
 about fifty miles above There are, however, a considerable 
 number of islands above Buenos Ayres, where the river pro- 
 perly begins; at the mouth of the Uruguay there is the island 
 of Martin Garcia, and at the entrance of the Parana there are a 
 great many islands of various sizes. Rio La Plata here loses 
 its name ; it is in fact, properly speaking, but a bay or gulf, into 
 which the Uruguay and Parana discharge themselves. It was 
 originally called the river of' Solis, from the name of its first 
 discoverer; but was changed by Cabot, who defeated a party 
 of Indians on its borders, and among whom he found some sil- 
 ver ornaments, from which he was induced to believe, that there 
 were mines of this metal in the vicinity. The entrance of tin's 
 river was formerly considered extremely dangerous and difficult, 
 but since it has been frequented by the English, it has become 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. 6. Vol. III. G 
 
42 Voyage to Buenos /lyres, 
 
 much better known, and the dangers have in consequence di- 
 minished as far as an acquaintance with the situation and nauti- 
 cal skill can diminish them. But there are still serious dangers 
 to be encountered, and which are beyond the power of man to 
 obviate. The principal, perhaps, is the south-west wind, which 
 blows during the winter months, May, June, July, and August, 
 with dreadful violence, while the harbours on its shores afford 
 but a very imperfect security. On the north side, the shore is 
 rocky and dangerous : on the south it is flat, and the water ex- 
 tremely shoal ; the channel is therefore on the north side, between 
 what is called the English bank and the island of Flores, about 
 ten miles in width ; the largest vessels may pass with little 
 danger unless the wind be very violent. Between Monte Video 
 and Buenos Ayres the navigation is still more difficult on ac- 
 count of what is called Ortiz banks, which render the channel 
 narrow and intricate. These banks consist of hard sand, and 
 it is almost as dangerous for vessels to strike upon them as to 
 strike upon a rock ; but the channel is generally of soft mud, in 
 which a vessel may sink several inches without experiencing 
 any injury. 
 
 The afternoon of the 20th the anchor was weighed, and the 
 Congress proceeded up the river, but came to anchor about ten 
 o'clock at night, being apprehensive of approaching too near the 
 island of Flores on the one hand, and the English bank on the 
 other. We made sail at day-light, but the wind slackening, and 
 a strong current setting downwards, we again anchored within 
 a few miles of Flores. On the main-land from Maldonado to 
 this place, we were continually in sight of a range of high hills, 
 in places rising to considerable peaks, but not deserving the 
 name of mountains. With our spy-glasses we could discover a 
 vast number of seals moving about on the island, or lying upon 
 the naked rocks, by which it is surrounded. As it was now a 
 perfect calm, and the weather delightful, a number of us re- 
 solved to make an attack upon the island, and possess ourselves 
 of a few of the skins of its inhabitants, not as warlike trophies, 
 but for the purpose of making caps, saddle housings, or stuffing 
 them for museums. Our approach to shore was attended with 
 some difficulty, on account of the surf, which never ceases to 
 dash upon the rocks. The roaring of the sea was emulated by 
 the noise of the seals, of which we now discovered astonishing 
 numbers. The hoarse roaring of the males, and the bleating of 
 the females and younger seals, bore resemblance to the mingled 
 concert of domestic cattle, cows, calves, and the accompaniment 
 of bleating sheep. Besides thousands upon the shore, there 
 were still greater numbers in the water, some as far out as 
 thirty or forty yards. They were in continual motion, their 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 43 
 
 heads appearing and disappearing, while they incessantly kept 
 up a dreadful noise. As soon as we landed, the seals exerted 
 themselves as fast as they could to get into the water; and con- 
 sidering that they have nothing but a pair of tins a little below 
 the breast, and a long unwieldy body and tail to drag after 
 them, they made very considerable speed. Some of our sailors 
 got between them and the water with clubs, which they had 
 provided, and knocked down a number, a slight blow on the 
 end of the nose being sufficient for this purpose. In those 
 places where water was standiug in the hollows of the rock, 
 there were great numbers of young seals huddled together, re- 
 sembling young whelps, though much larger. The sailors, who 
 had been laying about them with indiscriminate fury, assailed 
 these poor creatures, who seemed in a most piteous manner to 
 implore for mercy. Seeing the harmless and inoffensive nature 
 of this race, we were seized with compassion, hastened to put a 
 stop to the carnage, and resolved to select only a few of those 
 that we thought suited to our purposes. The smell was so 
 offensive, that we were compelled in a short time to return to 
 our boats. 
 
 These are of the species called the ursine seal. The males 
 are called lions, from the resemblance of the head and mane to 
 that animal, as well as from their hoarse noise. They are often 
 seen with several of their favourite females around them, bask- 
 ing on the rock, but as soon as discovered, they roll themselves 
 into the water. Some of their habits are singular. Each lion, 
 like a grand sultan, has forty or fifty females. They live in dis- 
 tinct families of several hundred. Each family occupies a par- 
 ticular part of the island, upon which none of the others are 
 suffered to encroach ; bloody battles sometimes ensue between 
 different families, which frequently involve the whole tribe. A 
 combat sometimes takes place between two males ; the one who 
 is vanquished, is abandoned by all his wives, who join the con- 
 queror. The female is delicately formed, with a long tapering- 
 neck, and beautiful silvery skin, which glisten on coming out of 
 the water. The old ones, although very uneasy for the safety 
 of their young, will not venture out of the water to their assist- 
 ance. I observed, in the fissures of the rock, thousands of a 
 small fish about a foot in length, swimming among the young 
 seals, probably attracted by them, and fed upon. The skins of 
 this kind are not of much value ; but those of the fur kind on 
 the island of Lobos, fifty miles below, are much esteemed. 
 The island is about a mile and a half long ; the sea, when much 
 agitated, dashes over it. We supposed there miaht be about 
 twenty families on the island, of two hundred each. A lion, 
 killed by the commodore, measured ten feet six inches from the 
 
 G 2 
 
44 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 nose to the end of the tail, was six feet four inches in girth, and 
 probably weighed at least one thousand pounds. 
 
 The calm continued until the afternoon of the next day, when 
 a breeze springing up, the anchor was weighed, and we pro- 
 ceeded up the river. It was not long before we discovered the 
 hill above the town, which gives its name to the place. We 
 next discovered the town at a distance, and the cathedral, the 
 most conspicuous object in it. The frigate came to anchor in 
 four fathoms water, soft mud, the fort on the top of the mount, 
 bearing-, by compass, north-west ; the cathedral north-east by 
 north, Point Brava, east by north, distant from land a league 
 or upwards. 
 
 We could discern a number of vessels lying in the harbour, 
 but chiefly of a small size, excepting a Portuguese frigate, an 
 Tndiaman, (which had lately been released by the government 
 of Buenos Ayres) and some light vessels of war. We observed 
 the patriot flag on one or two small sloops. The trade of this 
 place being almost annihilated, induced us to believe, that the 
 greater part of the vessels we saw belonged to the Portuguese 
 invading force — the business of war having in this town com- 
 pletely taken place of the peaceful pursuits of commerce. 
 
 Looking at the town from a distance, it seems to stand upon 
 a projecting point, or promontory ; and a point running out 
 from the base of the hill before-mentioned, forms with the first 
 a spacious basin, but too shoal to be considered a good harbour; 
 and moreover, not affording complete protection, from all the 
 winds that sweep across this vast country of plains. The town 
 is compactly built, exhibits no mean appearance, and might 
 contain fifteen or twenty thousand inhabitants in the days of its 
 prosperity. I was not a little disappointed in finding such a 
 place in the midst of a vast region almost uninhabited, or at 
 least not more populous than the immense track which lies west 
 of St. Louis, on the Mississippi. The adjacent country looks 
 naked and desolate ; a few horses and horned cattle, feeding 
 on the extensive grassy plains, which stretch out in every direc- 
 tion, are the only objects to be seen. The surface of the coun- 
 try appeared, however, to be pleasingly varied, but, with the ex- 
 ception of the mount before-mentioned, no where rising into 
 hills. We could discern, with our glasses, the vestiges of a 
 number of fine seats and gardens beyond the town, as well as 
 along the bank below it. The hedges of prickly pear, or cactus, 
 are plainly visible. In fact, the whole country around appears 
 to have been laid waste by the ravages of war. The shore, or 
 rather bank (for one is apt to forget that this is a river) is not 
 high or steep, but rock-bound, and the landing bad almost 
 every where. 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 46 
 
 The next morning the commodore ordered a boat to be 
 manned, and a lieutenant to proceed to the city, and in com- 
 pliance with the usual etiquette, to wait on the chief person in 
 command, to state the object of our visit, and to request permis- 
 sion to obtain such supplies as the ship might require. Seeing 
 Mr. Bland about to take advantage of this opportunity, I de- 
 termined to accompany him. We had to pass round a long 
 rocky point, which makes out from the tongue of land on which 
 the town is built. The harbour is capacious, but very shoal 
 around it; as the bottom is extremely soft, vessels are often 
 eight or ten inches in the mud. On arriving at the stairs, or 
 quay, constructed with the dingy granite, of which all the rocks 
 we have seen on this river were composed, we found among the 
 crowd attracted by curiosity, several Englishmen, and a person 
 of the name of White, who informed us he was an American, 
 and made a tender of his services. Lieutenant Clack inquired 
 for the American consul, but was informed that he resided at 
 Buenos Ayres ; at the same time suggested the propriety of first 
 waiting on General Lecor, the commanding officer, with whom 
 he professed to be intimately acquainted. He offered his ser- 
 vices to conduct us ; the lieutenant thanked him, observing that 
 this was his business on-shore, and that he would accept his 
 offer. 
 
 We accordingly proceeded to the quarters of the Portuguese 
 general, who occupies one of the largest and best houses in the 
 city. We entered a spacious court or varanda, with galleries 
 all around if, through a guard of black troops, with sleek and 
 greasy looks, and dressed in showy uniform. In these coun- 
 tries the blacks are preferred as guards and centinels, about 
 the persons of officers of distinction. After going through 
 several apartments, passing centinels and officers on duty, ex- 
 hibiting to us all the pomp and parade of the establishment of a 
 great military chief, we entered an apartment where we were 
 politely invited to sit down. We had scarcely time to recover 
 from the reflections produced by this, to us, unusual scene, 
 when the general himself made his appearance, with which we 
 were much struck. He is a remarkably fine figure, tall and 
 erect, with a native unaffected dignity of manners. His age is 
 above fifty-five, his complexion much too fair for a Portuguese; 
 indeed, we afterwards learned that he is of Flemish descent. 
 The character of this officer does not contradict the favourable 
 impression which his appearance is calculated to make. His 
 reputation is that of a brave and honourable soldier, and a polite 
 and humane man. From all accounts, however, he is not ex- 
 clusively indebted for these good qualities for his elevation 
 from a low rank in life. Mr. Bland introduced himself through 
 
46 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 White, who acted as interpreter, and after some conversation, in 
 which he stated the motives of the visit, he accepted a general 
 invitation to dine the next day, the general at the same time in 
 the most obliging manner tendering his services. Arrange- 
 ments having been made on the subject of the salute, we took 
 our leave. Mr. White next conducted us to an inn in the great 
 square or plaza, fronting the cabildo. 
 
 There is something extremely painful in the contemplation of 
 scenes of recent and rapid decay. The sufferers in the havoc 
 and desolation are brought near to us, and we cannot but sym- 
 pathise in their misfortunes. Ancient ruins are associated with 
 beings, who, in the course of nature and time, would long since 
 have passed away at any rate, but we unavoidably share in the 
 miseries of our coiemporaries, where we are surrounded by 
 their sad memorials. At every step I found something to 
 awaken these reflections. Traces of the most rapid decline of 
 this lately flourishing and populous town, every where presented 
 themselves. The houses, for the greater part, were tumbling 
 down or unoccupied, whole streets were uninhabited excepting 
 as barracks for the soldiery. In the more frequented streets, 
 few were seen but soldiers, or perhaps a solitary female dressed 
 in black, stealing along to some chapel to count her beads. 
 There seemed to be little or no business doing any where, not 
 even at the pulperias or shops. The town, in fact, looked as if 
 it had experienced the visitation of the plague. During the 
 latter part of our walk, it being the commencement of the 
 siesta, (about one o'clock) the silence in the city was in some 
 measure to be attributed to this circumstance. We observed a 
 number of the lower classes of people, lying across the foot- 
 ways flat on their backs, in the shady side of the houses, with 
 their poncho or rug spread under them ; we were obliged to 
 pass round, being unwilling to step over them, from the same 
 kind of apprehension we should feel from a fierce mastiff or 
 bull-dog. Happening to peep into a meat-shop, I observed a 
 kind of Indian lying on his poncho, on the earthern floor, in the 
 midst of myriads of flies, who covered his bare legs, face, and 
 hands, without causing him the slightest uneasiness. These 
 people of whom I have been speaking, appeared to have a con- 
 siderable mixture of Indian race, judging from their complexion 
 and their lank black hair, which is almost as coarse as the mane 
 of a horse. 
 
 The town still retains every proof of having once been 
 flourishing.' The streets are laid oft* at right angles, and are 
 much more spacious than those of Rio, as well as less filthy, 
 although little or no attention is paid to them; the buildings are 
 also, in general, erected iu much better taste. The streets are 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 47 
 
 paved, but the footways narrow and indifferent. Monte Video 
 may be considered, comparatively, a new town ; for within the 
 last century, Spain has laid the foundation of much fewer colo- 
 nies or cities, than during the former period of her dominion in 
 America. At the same time, such cities as have been built, are 
 much more elegant and convenient. The rapid growth of this 
 place is to be ascribed to the circumstance of its possessing a 
 much better harbour than Buenos Ayres, if the latter place can 
 be said to have any harbour at all. The harbour of Monte 
 Video is, in fact, the only one on the river which deserves the 
 name. This city came to be the emporium of what is called the 
 Banda Oriental, a vast track of country, lying between the river" 
 Uruguay on the west, the Portuguese dominions on the north, 
 the ocean on the east, and the river La Plata on the south, and 
 containing about the same number of square miles as the states 
 of Mississippi and Alabama. Its position on the Plata is not un- 
 like that of the countries just mentioned, between the Tennessee, 
 the Mississippi, and the gulf of Mexico. The principal exports 
 of this city and province consisted of hides, salted meat, tallow, 
 &c. to a very considerable amount. 
 
 In July, 1806, when Buenos Ayres was taken by General 
 Beresford and Sir Home Popham, Monte Video was merely 
 blockaded, these officers having determined to proceed at once 
 against the capital, under a mistaken idea, that, if once in posses- 
 sion of it, the rest of the country would willingly throw off the 
 Spanish yoke, and acknowledge obedience to the government of 
 Great Britain. But, in the month of May, of the year following, 
 General Achmuty, who commanded the van-guard of the second 
 British expedition against this country, after some resistance, 
 took possession of Monte Video. During this time, it expe- 
 rienced a momentary flush of prosperity, from the increased 
 demand for its produce, and the immense quantities of British 
 goods thrown in, and which the owners were compelled to sacri- 
 fice. This was soon after succeeded by a series of reverses, 
 with little or no intermission until the present time. The 
 British, under Whitlock, having been defeated at Buenos Ayres, 
 the troops of that city laid siege to Monte Video, and compelled 
 the captors to evacuate it. In the troubles which afterwards 
 ensued, these two cities were soon found engaged in opposite 
 interests. The people of Buenos Ayres having deposed the 
 Spanish viceroy Sobremonte, on account of his incapacity, 
 elected Liniers in his stead ; but at Monte Video, the European 
 Spaniards, who were more numerous in proportion, combining 
 with the Spanish naval officers, prevailed over the native Ameri- 
 cans, who, although the majority, were by no means so well 
 directed. A junta was formed, attached to the Spanish interests, 
 
48 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 determined to follow the varying temporary governments of 
 Spain, and therefore, in opposition to that which had been set 
 up by Buenos Ayres. The year after, the British had been 
 expelled from this country, Cisneros was sent out as viceroy 
 from Spain, Liniers was superseded, and peace between the 
 two cities for a short time restored. But when this viceroy was 
 deposed by the people of Buenos Ayres, in 1810, the Spanish 
 interest was once more successful in Monte Video, after an un- 
 availing- effort of the Creoles to follow the example of the capital. 
 Open hostilities now ensued. The government of Buenos 
 Ayres having excited the people of the Banda Oriental to re- 
 volt, laid siege to this city, but which they were compelled to 
 abandon and again resume, accordingly as they were successful 
 or otherwise, in the struggle with the Spaniards in the upper 
 provinces, until the close of the year 1814, when Buenos Ayres 
 finally succeeded in capturing the city. During all this time, 
 the intercourse between it and the country was almost entirely 
 suspended, and its trade of course declined. The effects of a 
 protracted siege, on its prosperity, may be easily imagined. 
 The matter was still worse, when Buenos Ayres came to get 
 possession of the city, as Artigas, with his followers, had pre- 
 viously deserted the cause, and was in arms against his country- 
 men. A few months afterwards, the inhabitants of 3fonte 
 Video having established a government, set up a press, opened 
 colleges and schools, the town was evacuated by the troops of 
 Buenos Ayres, who had employment enough in the upper pro- 
 vinces. The place soon after fell under the sway of this bar- 
 barian, who continued from that time in open hostility to Buenos 
 Ayres, contrary to the wishes of the intelligent and respectable 
 part of the community, which he is enabled to disregard, in con- 
 sequence of his having at his command the singular kind of 
 force composed of the wild herdsmen, who are so much attached 
 to him as their leader. The Portuguese, taking advantage of 
 the defection of Artigas, ?ook possession of Monte Video, under 
 the pretext that their own safety required it. They allege, 
 that Artigas had committed hostilities on the adjoining provinces 
 of Brazil, and that the state of anarchy which he had occasioned, 
 held out a dangerous example to the herdsmen of their pro- 
 vinces, whose habits and propensities are similar to those of the 
 herdsmen of the Banda Oriental. The marching of their divi- 
 sions, amounting in the whole to ten thousand men, has proved 
 destructive to the settlements or villages of the country; and 
 the occupation of this city by General Lecor, with the principal 
 division, consisting of five thousand men, which has since been 
 reinforced, may be considered as giving it the finishing- blow. 
 Within eight years, the population has been reduced at least 
 
In 1SI7 and IS 18. 48 
 
 two-thirds, many of the principal inhabitants have removed, 
 property to an immense amount in the delightful suburbs, 
 which contained a greater population than the town, has been 
 destroyed, and the value of what remains reduced to a mere 
 trifle. Jt is, in fact, nothing but a garrison, with a few starved 
 inhabitants, who are vexed and harassed by the military. I am 
 told, that notwithstanding this misery, there is a theatre here, 
 and that the evenings are spent in balls and dances, perhaps 
 for want of other employments; the outward actions are not 
 always the certain index of the heart. When we consider the 
 stagnation of business, the depreciation of property, and the 
 deficiency of supplies, we may easily conjecture what must be 
 the condition of the people. There is little doubt, that had this 
 place remained attached to the government of Buenos Ayres, 
 the Portuguese would not have molested it; but the revolt of 
 Artigas and his disorganizing system, furnished too fair an 
 opportunity for making themselves masters of a territory they 
 had coveted for more than a century and an half. 
 
 On our return to the hotel, we found Mr. Graham, who had 
 come on shore, and it was agreed to remain all night. General 
 Carrera proposed to us a ride early the next morning', and po- 
 litely offered to procure us horses; the proposal was gladly 
 acceded to. Accordingly, the next morning-, we sallied forth 
 at one of the gates, to take a view of the country outside of the 
 Malls, and within the Portuguese lines, which extend around 
 about three miles. It would not be considered safe to go 
 beyond them, lest we should fall in with the Guuchos, the name 
 by which the people of Artigas are designated, and who might 
 take a fancy to our clothes. The general observed, that with 
 respect to himself, he would have nothing to fear, as he was 
 known to them ; but he was not certain that he could afford pro- 
 tection to those who were with him. I do not suppose they 
 are quite as ferocious as they are generally represented to be; 
 but I presume they are very little better than the Missouri 
 Indians. We soon found ourselves in the midst of ruins, whose 
 aspect was much more melancholy than those of the city itself. 
 Nearly the whole extent which I have mentioned, was once 
 covered with delightful dwellings, and contiguous gardens, in 
 the highest cultivation; it is now a scene of desolation. The 
 ground scarcely exhibits traces of the spots where they stood, 
 or of the gardens, excepting here and there fragments of the 
 hedges of the prickly pear, with which they had formerly been 
 enclosed. The fruit-trees, and those planted for ornament, had 
 been cut down for fuel, or perhaps through wantonness. Over 
 the surface of this extensive and fertile plain, which a few 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. 6. Vol. III. H 
 
50 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 years ago contained as great a population as the city itself, 
 there are, at present, not more than a dozen families, upon whom 
 soldiers are billetted, and a few uninhabited dilapidated build- 
 ings. This is the result of the unhappy sieges which have re- 
 duced the population of this city and suburbs, from upward of 
 thirty thousand to little more than seven. From this, some idea 
 may be formed of the havoc which has been made. We found, 
 however, in riding along the basin above the town, a fine gar- 
 den, which had escaped the common wreck. We alighted, 
 and were hospitably received by the owner, who led us through 
 his grounds, and showed us his fruit-trees and vegetables. It 
 is from this spot that Lecor's table is supplied. The fruits, 
 peaches, grapes, figs, oranges, apples, &c. are exceedingly 
 fine. In this enchanting climate, (with the exception of a few 
 of the tropical fruits,) all the fruits that are most esteemed 
 ripen in the open air, in great perfection. In fact, I believe 
 that the climate is surpassed by none in the world, not even by 
 that of Italy or the south of France. It experiences neither 
 the sultry heat of summer, nor the chilling blast of winter. 
 The air so pure, that putrefaction can scarcely be said to take 
 place ; we observed the remains of several dead animals, which 
 seemed to have dried up, instead of going to decay. Flesh 
 wounds are said to heal with difficulty, from the same cause. 
 
 After leaving this place >ve continued our ride in a different 
 direction; the air cool and refreshing. The ground gradually 
 rises on retiring from the town. I was reminded of the magni- 
 ficent scite of our capital, the city of Washington. But nothing 
 occasioned so much surprise as the amazing fertility of the soil. 
 It is a light, rich, black mould, superior even to our best river 
 bottoms ; and this is its general character over the whole 
 country. Cotton, the sugar-cane, Indian corn, and grain of 
 every kind, would be equally congenial to this soil and climate, 
 where pasturage has hitherto been almost the exclusive em- 
 ployment, and which renders it impossible for a country to be 
 populous. This province alone is capable of containing a po- 
 pulation as great as France, and yet the number of its inhabit- 
 ants, at no time, exceeded sixty or seventy thousand. We 
 remarked, as we rode along, growing- about on the plains or 
 commons, great quantities of a species of thistle, which is cut 
 down, dried, and made into faggots, for fuel, in consequence of 
 the scarcity of wood. Dried animals, horses, sheep, &c. are 
 made use of for the same purpose, particularly in burning 
 bricks. It is this which has given rise to the story of their 
 throwing animals alive into the flames, for the purpose of keep- 
 ing up their fires. Many of the extravagant stories related by 
 travellers have had no better origin. I remarked several very 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 51 
 
 beautiful shade trees, scattered here and there over the plain. I 
 was unable to account for these having escaped the general ra- 
 vage, but was informed that this tree, which is called the umbu, is 
 so very soft and porous, and contains so much sap, or more pro- 
 perly water, that it will not burn even after having been long- 
 cut. A gentleman told me that on first coming to this country, 
 he was surprised one day at seeing a woman trying to split up 
 the skull of an ox for fuel, while a log of wood was lyingalongside 
 of her, which she did not seem to think of applying to this pur- 
 pose ; but this log was of the incombustible umbu. Amongst 
 the curious things that attracted my attention, was the remains 
 of an enclosure formed entirely of dry ox-heads, piled on each 
 other; from which we may form some idea of the vast number 
 of cattle slaughtered in this neighbourhood, when the com- 
 merce of the city was flourishing. 
 
 On arriving at the high ground near the lines, the prospect 
 was truly delightful; the city and harbour, the shipping, the 
 frigate Congress, with her glorious flag, distinguishable at a 
 greater distance than that of any other nation, the mount, the 
 expanse of this vast river, at this place at least seventy miles 
 wide, spread out below me ; from this point the ground sloping 
 to the interior, presented an enchanting landscape ; the surface 
 of the country waving like the Attakapas or Opalousas, with 
 here and there some rising grounds, and some blue hills at a 
 great distance. Along- a beautiful winding stream, which 
 flowed through a valley before us, there were more trees and 
 shrubbery than I had expected to have seen ; but this terres- 
 trial paradise, was silent and waste — man had not fixed here 
 his " cheerful abode." 
 
 Wild animals, such as are common to this country, the deer, 
 the wolf, the ostrich, and even the tiger, abound every where 
 in these plains. The tiger of this country is a powerful and 
 ferocious animal, little inferior in strength to that of Africa. 
 It is not many years since three of them swam across the basin 
 and entered the town of Monte Video, to the great terror of its 
 inhabitants, several of whom were killed, or mangled, before 
 the monsters were destroyed. 
 
 We were told that the interior of the country, for hundreds 
 of miles, possessed the same beauty of surface, and fertility of 
 soil ; and, although generally well supplied with fine streams, a 
 small proportion of it can be said to be hilly or mountainous ; 
 and that, in general, there is an abundance of wood along the 
 water-courses. On examiuing the map of Azara, it will ap- 
 pear to be abundantly supplied with fine rivers ; it is bounded 
 in its whole extent eight or nine hundred miles on the east by 
 the river Uruguay, which may bear a comparison even with 
 
 H2 
 
52 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 the Rhine or Danube of Europe. This river has also a num- 
 ber of important navigable tributaries, the principal of which 
 are the T bicuiy, and the Rio Negro, together with several other 
 rivers which discharge themselves either into the Atlantic or 
 La Plata. 
 
 As we approached the town, we met a number of country 
 people, chiefly women and boys, with a few men, who appeared 
 as if returning* from market. I was a little surprised at this, as 
 I understood that all intercourse had been prohibited by Arti- 
 gas; but General Carrera informed us, that this does not extend 
 beyond the prohibition of the supply of horned cattle, and that 
 some of those we saw, were in all likelihood of the besieging 
 force, but that such was the situation of things, it was winked 
 at. The hatred to the Portuguese pervades every class of 
 natives, the commoner of the plains, as well as the tenant of the 
 humble cottage, and appears to increase in the rising genera- 
 tion. The present inhabitants can never be good Portuguese 
 subjects. 
 
 About noon we had a visit from General Lecor and suite. 
 His officers generally spoke good English, probably from hav- 
 ing served with them against the French. This was intended 
 as a visit of ceremony. At three o'clock, we proceeded to his 
 quarters, according to invitation. Commodore Sinclair had at 
 first declined, but afterwards, on a pressing invitation being- 
 sent by the general, he was induced to come. 31 r. Rodney 
 declined coming on-shore at all; under all circumstances, not 
 considering- it proper for him to do so, until his return from 
 Buenos Ayres. We found a great number of persons assembled, 
 all of them Portuguese officers of the land and naval service, 
 excepting a gentleman in a citizen's dress, who, we were in- 
 formed, was an agent from Buenos Ayres, on some special 
 business ; he was a keen, intelligent looking man, and his plain 
 suit of black formed a singular contrast with the splendid uni- 
 forms, and crosses, and medals of the Portuguese officers. The 
 entertainment was the most sumptuous. It was, indeed, a ban- 
 quet, composed of every thing in the way of fish, flesh, and 
 fowl, that can Well be imagined, and was succeeded by all the 
 variety of fruits which this market and that of Buenos Ayres 
 could afford. Our ears were at the same time regaled with the 
 sweetest music from the general's band. Several of these 
 officers, particularly the general's aids, were remarkably hand- 
 some men ; I happened to be seated near one of them, and had 
 a good deal of conversation with him. He expressed a high 
 admiration of our political institutions, and national character, 
 part of which I of course considered only complimentary. He 
 spoke of the patriots at Buenos Ayres, as a factious set, incapa- 
 
Iii 1817 and 1818. 53 
 
 ble of establishing- any sober government; their leaders all 
 corrupt, and desirous only of acquiring some little self-import- 
 ance ; the people ignorant, and at the mercy of ambitious de- 
 magogues : he contrasted their character with the virtues and 
 intelligence of the people of the United States. He spoke of 
 Artigas, as an atrocious savage, and stated a recent instance of 
 cruel treatment to his prisoners ; that his people were, like all 
 other savages, entirely insensible to the feelings of humanity. 
 He spoke in a manner not very complimentary to the English, 
 and held out the idea, that some useless attempts had lately 
 been made on their part, to induce the king of Portugal to 
 return to Lisbon. 
 
 The Buenos Ayrean agent, in the course of the entertain- 
 ment, sought a conversation with me, and pronounced a hasty, 
 but fervid, eulogy on his government, and then on the charac- 
 ter of his countrymen. His eagerness to communicate his 
 thoughts, seemed to arise from apprehensions that unfavour- 
 able impressions would be made on our minds. He spoke of 
 General Carrera, at the same time requesting to be forgiven 
 for the liberty he was taking, and observed that he had per- 
 ceived him very intimate with us, and had understood he was 
 highly esteemed in the United States, but he hoped we would 
 not permit our minds to be swayed by his statements, as he 
 entertained a deadly enmity to the government of Buenos 
 Ayres, and even to the people of that place ; that he was ac- 
 tuated by disappointed ambition, and, for the sake of revenge, 
 would go any length. " If he be the real patriot," said he, 
 "why does he live under the protection of this government? 
 Can he not go to the United States, or any where else ? No, 
 he is waiting his opportunity until the liberties of Chili shall 
 be won from Spain, through the aid of our arms, in order to 
 kindle up the same civil broils afid factions, by which that 
 couutry has been once lost already. In the meantime, he loses 
 no opportunity of harassing us, as far as lies in his power. We 
 attribute to him much of the abuse that has appeared against 
 our leading- men in your newspapers, and which has occasioned 
 deep regret to the people of Buenos Ayres. The idea has 
 been held out, that the Chilians were couquered by their bre- 
 thren of Buenos Ayres, an idea the most absurd that can be 
 imagined ; but it is necessary that he should hold out this pre- 
 tence, for if his country accepts our assistance, what right has 
 he to object? "No," said he, " his anger has no other foun- 
 dation than disappointed ambition. But," said he, "you will 
 judge for yourselves. Does his country require his services? 
 Can any one deny the fact, that she has done better without 
 him than with him ? Let him, at least, remain quiet as a pri- 
 
54 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 vate citizen, until the liberties of his country are settled on a 
 solid basis, and not be continually engaged as he is, in trying 
 to bring us into disrepute with our friends abroad." My busi- 
 ness was that of a listener — I could only answer, that I thought 
 his observations worthy of being attended to. 
 
 During our short stay at 3Ionte Video, I became acquainted 
 with several English gentlemen, from whom I collected a good 
 deal of information respecting the state of the country. With 
 a young Irish merchant, who possessed all that generosity of 
 heart, and genuine hospitality which characterizes his country- 
 men, I was highly pleased. I could not divest my mind of 
 the idea that he was a countryman of my own, although he in- 
 formed me that he had never been in the United States. I was 
 not aware of our entertaining this feeling towards the Irish 
 when abroad, but it no doubt arises from the circumstance of 
 our considering them as a distinct people from the English, and 
 oppressed by them, as well as from a consciousness that the 
 hearts of Irishmen have generally been with us in our times of 
 trial. Their accounts were, in most respects, very much at va- 
 riance with some that I had heard from General Carrera, and 
 his friend White ; and knowing that so much depends upon 
 the situations, motives, and interests of men, I thought well to 
 give them due weight and consideration, as they were not so 
 obviously disqualified from giving unbiassed testimony, as the 
 two persons just mentioned. It would certainly be improper, 
 on these occasions, to adopt those rules of evidence estab- 
 lished by the experience of judicial tribunals, but they are not 
 entirely to be despised. Having, from earliest infancy, in 
 a life replete with incident, been often cast among strangers, 
 the habit of circumspection has grown upon me. To distrust, 
 or doubt, is one thing, to decide, after mature and cautious ex- 
 amination, is another. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Passage from Monte Video to Buenos Ayres — Description of 
 Buenos Ayres — Interview with the Supreme Director. 
 
 Considerable difficulties were experienced in procuring a 
 vessel at Monte Video, to carry the mission to its place of des- 
 tination. Several small vessels were examined, and found un- 
 suited to the purpose; the idea of chartering one at this place 
 was therefore given up, and it was perceived too late, that an 
 error had been committed, in not stopping for this purpose at 
 St. Catherine's. Some trade is carried on with Buenos Ayres, 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 55 
 
 but of very little moment ; two or three small sloops suffice 
 for the purpose. Both American and English ships, coming 
 to this river, at present, are exposed to serious inconvenience 
 from the desertion of their crews to join the privateers, which 
 is as injurious to commerce, as it is demoralizing" to the sea- 
 men. We were fortunate in meeting a young- man who was 
 going up in a small brig to Buenos Ayres, and who cheerfully 
 consented to take us as passengers, otherwise, it is probable, 
 we should have been detained here for some time. 
 
 On the evening of the 26th of February, we got all our 
 baggage on-board, and embarked. Our Argo would have 
 caused uneasiness even to Charon and his ghosts ; she was 
 certainly much better suited for crossing the river Styx than 
 the river La Plata. She was an hermaphrodite brig, called 
 the Malacabada, or unfinished ; the hand of time, however, 
 had nearly completed what had been left undone by the ship- 
 builder. The deck had not been swabbed for a year. There 
 had been putrid grain in the hold, which had bred insects and 
 vermin, and sent forth a most disagreeable effluvia ; the cabin, 
 which was very small, contained several women, who were go- 
 ing to Buenos Ayres. The sails and rigging corresponded 
 with the rest ; by way of ballast, she had several puncheons 
 of water in her hold, which kept a constant dashing and 
 splashing, to our great annoyance. Thus crowded together 
 on deck, with scarcely room to turn round in this crazy vessel, 
 no one would have suspected that the Malacabada carried a 
 mission from the great republic of the north, to the rising re- 
 public of the south. 
 
 There were several passengers on-board, besides ourselves, 
 inhabitants of Buenos Ayres. As we expected not to remain 
 out more than one night, we made up our minds to be recon- 
 ciled to our miserable accommodations. We wrapped ourselves 
 in our great coats, for the evening was extremely cool, and 
 slept as well as we could. Next morning we came in sight of 
 the southern shore, at the distance of some miles ; it appeared 
 to be a mere line along the surface of the water, and some so- 
 litary trees at a distance, looked as if they grew in this ele- 
 ment. Towards the middle of the day, we suffered consider- 
 ably from the heat, being without any shelter. 
 
 During the evening I had an opportunity, for the first time, 
 of seeing and tasting the herb of Paraguay, or matte, as pre- 
 pared by these people. It is called matte, from the name of 
 the vessel ; usually a small gourd, by the poorer sort, or silver, 
 and even wood (nearly of the same shape) cased with copper 
 for the rich. About a handful of the bruised leaves of the 
 yerba, intermingled with small twigs, for it is not prepared 
 
56 Voyage to Buenos Ayrcs } 
 
 with the cleanliness and care of the East India tea, is put into 
 three half-gills of warm water; the matte, itself, holding- about 
 a pint. As it is used, the water is occasionally renewed, and 
 in taking- it, they use a tube a few inches in length, with a per- 
 forated bulb at the end, as a strainer. Sugar is sometimes 
 added to it. The taste is an agreeable bitter, and bears some 
 resemblance to the Chinese tea. It does not form a part of 
 a social meal, nor is any thing eaten with it ; it is taken just 
 as inclination prompts, at all times of the day, though more 
 generally in the morning and evening, or after having under- 
 gone some bodily fatigue. The decoction possesses, according 
 to them, exhilirating and restorative qualities. As there were 
 not mattes enough for each, I saw them, without repugnance, 
 using- the same after each other; but I afterwards observed, 
 that this was not the case in the more refined portions of so- 
 ciety. The quantities of this herb consumed in the viceroyalty 
 of La Plata, and exported to Chili and Peru, was, at one time, 
 very great; but the interruption of their trade, occasioned by 
 the revolution, and the restrictive system adopted by the go- 
 vernment of Paraguay, has occasioned it to diminish. Its 
 use is said to have been borrowed from the Indians, with 
 whom it had been known time immemorial. It is a large 
 shrub, which grows wild throughout Paraguay, and on the east 
 side of the Parana. Azara gives a description of the manner 
 in which it is prepared for exportation. It is stated never to 
 have been cultivated, and has not been accurately described 
 by botanists. 
 
 About day-break we found ourselves in the outer roads, 
 about six miles from shore, where vessels of a larger size are 
 obliged to moor, as the water is too shoal for them to approach 
 nearer. A light fog rising soon after, prevented us from having 
 a clear view of the city until after we had cast anchor among 
 the smaller vessels, about half-a-mile fromjand. Phoebus, at 
 last, lifted the curtain, and our impatient eyes beheld the ce- 
 lebrated seat of' liberty and independence of the south. How 
 different the thoughts which rushed across my mind from 
 those which suggested themselves on my approach to Rio Ja- 
 neiro ! There is no king here, — no hereditary nobility, — the 
 jwwer of the state is acknowledged to be in the people, and in 
 no other. If this be their guiding star, it must, in the end, 
 bring them safely through, provided this be their motto. I care 
 Jiot for the present defects in the state of society, or the errors 
 of government; the cause is a glorious one, and heaven will 
 smile upon it. The public functionaries have been made, and 
 can be unmade by them : of how many countries of the world 
 can this be said ? I own myself one of those who prefer the 
 
In 1817 and 1818. $7 
 
 whirlwinds of democracy, to the stagnant pool of despotism. 
 Never shall I again behold a scene more sublime ; a people 
 not only struggling- against oppressive power, but against the 
 errors and prejudices of centuries, and for the happiness of 
 myriads yet unborn ; a people who have followed our exam- 
 ple, who admire our institutions, and who may settle down in 
 rational and free government ; for I view even the possibility 
 of such a consummation as something great. Yes, they are 
 destined to break the chains of slavery, ignorance, and super- 
 stition in the south, as we have in the north. 
 
 I shall endeavour to give the reader a rude sketch of the 
 city, as it appeared to us, a task much easier than to convey 
 the moral impressions left on the mind. It stretches along a 
 high bank about two miles; its domes and steeples, and heavy 
 masses of building, give it an imposing, but somewhat gloomy 
 aspect. Immense piles of dingy, brown-coloured brick, with 
 little variety, heavy and dull, shewed that it did not take its 
 rise under the patronage of liberty. Compared to Philadel- 
 phia, or New York, it is a vast mass of bricks, piled up with- 
 out taste, elegance, or variety. The houses, in some places, 
 appear to ascend in stages ; one story rising from the bottom 
 of the bank, the second story leaving part of it as a terrace, 
 and, in like manner, where the building rose to three stories, a 
 second terrace was left, besides the roof of the house, which is 
 invariably flat. The whole has the appearance of a vast forti- 
 fication. The streets, at regular intervals, open at right angles 
 with the river, and their ascent is steep. Between the bank 
 and the water's edge there is a space of considerable width, 
 rarely covered by the tides ; a number of people were seen 
 here presenting some appearance of the bustle of trade, while 
 the border of the river, for more than a mile, was occupied by 
 washerwomen, and the green sward, covered with clothes, 
 spread out in the sun. Between the sward and the bank, the 
 earth is bare, but some poplar trees are planted with seats un- 
 derneath, and this appears to be a kind of mall, or promenade. 
 There projects out into the water, a long narrow pier, or wharf, 
 composed of a mass of stone and earth, and which is said to 
 have cost the king of Spain half a million of dollars, the stone 
 used in its construction having been brought from the island of 
 Martin Garcia, at the mouth of the Uruguay; excepting at 
 high tides, it by no means answers the purpose for which it 
 was intended. To the left of this, looking towards the city, at 
 the distance of a few hundred yards, stands the fort, or castle, 
 its walls extending down to the water's edge, and mounted 
 with cannon. But, as it is not likely that an enemy would at- 
 tempt a landing in front of the city, and as no shipping can 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. 6. Vol. HI, I 
 
58 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 approach within gun-shot, it can be of little importance in a 
 military point of view; it is, in fact, without a garrison, and 
 the buildings within have been occupied for public offices, and 
 the residence of the viceroys under the old regime, and of the 
 directors since the revolution ; while the canon are used only 
 in firing salutes. Centinels, however, are seen pacing the 
 walls, and the blue and white flag - waving over their heads. 
 About a mile below this, the high bank suddenly tends inward, 
 leaving a vast level plain, which seems to be partly in cultiva- 
 tion, and partly in pasture grounds, inclosed in the manner of 
 the country, and through which a stream as large as the Chris- 
 tiana, at Wilmington, enters the river, affording a good har- 
 bour for the smaller craft, as also at its mouth, where there is a 
 kind of circular basin. In looking up the river to our right, 
 the city terminates in detached seats and gardens. 
 
 Our boat having been prepared, I embarked with Lieuten- 
 ant Clack, Mr. Breeze, the purser, Dr. Baldwin, and the 
 owner of the Malacnbada. It was necessary to make some 
 arrangements at the custom-house with respect to our baggage, 
 to prevent unpleasant detention : Mr. Rodney and Commo- 
 dore Sinclair declined going on-shore. As it was low-water, 
 it was so shallow, that our boat, though small, could not ap- 
 proach, we were therefore compelled to get into a cart, accord- 
 ing to custom, and to be thus ferried to shore, at least a hun- 
 dred yards. These carts would appear in our country of a 
 most awkward and clumsy structure. They are drawn by two 
 horses; the wheels are of an enormous size, and the quantity 
 of wood employed in the structure of the vehicle, one might 
 suppose, would be a load of itself, I am told that, within a 
 few years past, an English carriage, or waggon-maker, has 
 established himself in the city, and has already made a fortune 
 by constructing carts and waggons on a more modern plan ; 
 that his price, at first, for a common two-horse waggon, was 
 500 dollars, but since they have become in more general use, 
 it has fallen one half; but it will be a considerable time before 
 the present clumsy, and inconvenient machines, will be super- 
 seded. It will happen here, as in every thing else, that the 
 progress of improvement will be slow. 
 
 On our landing we found very few persons on the wharf, 
 attracted, as might have been expected, by curiosity. The 
 fact is, we had taken them by surprise ; and, as I afterwards 
 learned, it was a source of some chagrin, that they had not had 
 an opportunity of making some display on the occasion. It was 
 natural to'expect, that personages to whom the people attached 
 so much importance, should make their appearance with some- 
 thing more of parade. But I hope this disappointment was 
 
hi \S\7 and 18\8. 59 
 
 more than compensated, by giving them a practical example 
 of the simplicity and humility of true republicanism, which 
 places little or no importance in that outward show or cere- 
 mony, which is more properly a cloak for emptiness and con- 
 ceit, than any part of native worth and dignity. 
 
 Our friend was taken by the hand by a young officer, in a 
 neat uniform, aud his manner gave me a very favourable idea 
 of the relation in this place between the citizen and the sol- 
 dier. These two young men were probably educated together, 
 and were playmates in the same town ; they had only em- 
 braced different occupations, one entering the counting- 
 house, and the other the army, but without placing themselves 
 in different ranks or orders of society. There was something 
 of militia in the manner of the officer, which I cannot describe, 
 which strongly associated itself with recollections of my own. 
 country, and very different from what I had witnessed in Bra- 
 zil, where the military constitute an order as distinct as if of a 
 different race of men. There was no difficulty in making the 
 arrangements before-mentioned. While the boat returned to 
 the vessel, I went in company with the gentleman before-men- 
 tioned, in quest of lodgings. There are several tolerable pub- 
 lic-houses, chiefly kept by foreigners. We succeeded in ob- 
 taining- comfortable quarters, at about the same price as in the 
 cities of the United States. 
 
 I had no sooner been comfortably settled in my lodgings, 
 than I felt impatient to take a stroll through the town. The 
 streets are straight and regular, like those of Montevideo ; a 
 few of them are paved, but hollow in the middle. The houses 
 are pretty generally two stories high, with flat roofs, and, for 
 the most part, plastered on the outside ; which, without doubt, 
 at first, improved their appearance, but, by time and neglect, 
 they have become somewhat shabby. There are no elegant 
 rows of buildings as in Philadelphia, or New York, but many 
 are spacious, and all take up much more ground than with us. 
 The reason of this is, that they have large open courts, or va- 
 randas, both in front and rear, which are called patios. These 
 patios are not like our yards, enclosed by a wall or railing ; 
 their dwellings, for the most part, properly compose three con- 
 nected buildings, forming as many sides of a square ; the wall 
 of the adjoining house making up the fourth. In the centre 
 of the front building there is a gate-way, and the rooms on 
 either hand, as we enter, are, in general, occupied as places of 
 business, or merchants' counting- rooms ; the rear building is 
 usually the dining-room, while that on the left, or the right, 
 (as it may happen,) is the sitting-room, or parlour. The 
 
 I 2 
 
CO Voyage to Butnos Ay res, 
 
 patio is usually paved with brick, and sometimes with marble, 
 and is a cool and delightful place. 
 
 Grape-vines are planted round the walls, and, at this season, 
 are loaded with their fruit. The houses have as little wood as 
 
 Cossible about them ; both the first and second floor having 
 rick pavements ; fire-engines are, therefore, unknown, toge- 
 ther with that uneasiness from this angry element, when once 
 master, so much felt in our cities. There are no chimnies, 
 but those of kitchens. At all the windows there is a light, 
 iron grating, which projects about one foot; probably a rem- 
 nant of Spanish jealousy. The compactness of the town, the 
 flatness of the roofs, the incombustibility of the houses, the 
 open court-yards, which resemble the area of forts, and the 
 iron gratings, compose a complete fortification, and I do not 
 know a worse situation in which an enemy could be, than in 
 one of those streets. It is not surprising that a city so well 
 fortified, should have so effectually resisted the army of twelve 
 thousand men, under General Whitlock. The only mode by 
 which it could be assailed, would be by first obtaining a com- 
 plete command of the country around it, and of the river in 
 front. This would require a greater effort than Spain can 
 make, even if she were to abandon all her other colonies, and 
 unite, for the special purpose, all the forces she is able to spare 
 out of her Spanish dominions. 
 
 But little attention is paid to the cleanlinesss of the streets ; 
 in one of the front streets, where there was no pavement, I ob- 
 served several deep mud holes ; into these, dead cats and dogs 
 are sometimes thrown, from too much indolence to carry them 
 out of the way. The side-walks are very narrow, and in bad 
 repair ; this is better than at Rio Janeiro, where there are none 
 at all. I observed, however, as I went along, a number of 
 convicts, as I took them to be, engaged in mending the bad 
 places already mentioned. In these particulars I was very 
 much reminded of New Orleans; in fact, in many other points, 
 I observed a striking resemblance between the two cities. I 
 can say but little for the police, when compared to our towns ; 
 but this place manifests a still greater superiority over Rio 
 Janeiro; and many important improvements, that have been 
 introduced, within a few years past, were pointed out to me. 
 It would be well, however, to bestow some trouble in cleaning 
 those streets that are paved, and in paving the rest ; as well 
 as in freeing the fronts of their houses from the quantity of 
 dust collected, wherever it can find a resting-place. 
 
 But it is time to speak of the inhabitants of the city, and of 
 the people who frequent it. And here, whether illusion or 
 
 
In 1S17 and 1818. 61 
 
 reality, I had not walked far before I felt myself in a land of 
 freedom. There was an independence, an ingenuousness in 
 the carriage, and an expression in the countenances of those I 
 met, which reminded me of my own country ; an air of free- 
 dom breathed about them, which I shall not attempt to describe. 
 I felt the force of that beautiful thought of Moore, in his 
 Lalla Rookh : — 
 
 who with heart and eye9 
 
 Could walk, where liberty has been, nor see 
 The shining- foot-prints of her deity ; 
 Nor feel those god-like breathings in the air, 
 Which mutely told her spirit had been there ? " 
 
 I saw nothing but the plainness and simplicity of republi- 
 canism ; in the streets, there were none but plain citizens, and 
 citizen soldiers ; some of the latter, perhaps, shewing a little 
 of the coxcomb, and others exhibiting rather a militia appear- 
 ance, not the less agreeable to me on that account. In fact, I 
 could almost have fancied myself in one of our own towns, 
 judging by the dress and appearance of the people whom I 
 met. Nothing can be more different than the population of 
 this place, from that of Rio. I saw no one bearing the insig- 
 nia of nobility, except an old crazy man, followed by a train 
 of roguish boys. There were no palanquins, or rattling equi- 
 pages ; in these matters, there was much less luxury and 
 splendour than with us. The females, instead of being' im- 
 mured by jealousy, are permitted to walk abroad and breathe 
 the common air. The supreme director has no grooms, gen- 
 tlemen of the bed-chamber, nor any of the train which apper- 
 tains to royalty ; nor has his wife any maids of honour ; his 
 household is more plain than that of most of the private gen- 
 tlemen of fortune in our own country ; it is true, when he 
 rides out to his country-seat, thirty miles off, he is accompa- 
 nied by half-a-dozen horsemen, perhaps a necessary precau- 
 tion, considering the times, and which may be dispensed with 
 on the return of peace; or, perhaps, a remnant of anti-repub- 
 lican barbarity, which will be purged away by the sun of a 
 more enlightened age ; indeed, I am informed, that the pre- 
 sent director lives in a style of much greater simplicity than 
 any of his predecessors. 
 
 If I were to stop here, however, I should not give a faithful 
 picture of the appearance to a stranger, of the population of 
 Buenos Ayres ; the mixture of negroes and mulattoes, is by 
 no means remarkable, not as great, perhaps, as in Baltimore, 
 and the proportion of the military, such as we might have seen 
 in one of our towns, during the last war, with the exception of 
 the black troops, which, in this city, constitute a principal part 
 
C2 Voyage to Buenos Ay res, 
 
 of the regular force. But there are other figures which enter 
 into the picture, and give a different cast to the whole from 
 any thing I have seen. The modern European and North 
 American civilization, and I will add South American, which 
 differs but little from the others, was set off by a strange mix- 
 ture of antiquity and aboriginal rudeness. Buenos Ayres may 
 very justly be compared to the bust of a very beautiful female, 
 placed upon a pedestal of rude unshapen stone. Great num- 
 bers of gauchos, and other country people, are seen in the 
 streets, and always on horseback ; and, as there prevails a uni- 
 versal passion for riding', the number of horses is very great. 
 The European mode of caparisoning is occasionally seen, but 
 most usually, the bridle and saddle would be regarded as cu- 
 riosities by us. The stirrups of the gouchos are so small, as 
 to admit little more than the big toe of the rider, who makes a 
 very grotesque figure with his long flowing poncho. This is 
 a kind of striped cotton, or woollen rug", of the manufacture of 
 the country, fine or coarse, according to the purse of the 
 wearer, with nothing but a slit in the middle, through 
 which the head is thrust and hangs down perfectly loose, re- 
 sembling somewhat a waggoner's frock. In rain, it answers 
 the purposes of a big coat, and in hot weather, is placed on the 
 saddle. It is also used for sleeping on, as the Indians use 
 their blanket. It is possible, after all, that this singularity of 
 dress may not make any great difference in the man. There 
 is nothing remarkable in the complexion or features, excepting 
 where there happens to be a little dash of the Indian. There 
 is more of indolence, and vacancy, (if I may use the word.) in 
 the expression in their countenances, and an uncouth wildness 
 of their appearance ; but it must be remembered, that we also 
 of the north are reproached by Europeans for our carelessness 
 of time, and our lazy habits. These gauchos, I generally ob- 
 served, clustered about the pulperias, or grog-shops, of which 
 there are great numbers in the city and suburbs, they fre- 
 quently drink and carouse on horseback, while the horses of 
 those that are dismounted, continue to stand still without being 
 fastened, as they are all taught to do, and champing the bit. 
 These carousing groups would afford excellent subjects for 
 Flemish painters. The horses, though not of a large size, are 
 all finely formed ; I do not recollect a single instance in which 
 I did not remark good limbs, and well-formed head and neck. 
 The gauchos are often bare-footed and bare-legged ; or, instead 
 of boots, make use of the skin of the hind legs of the horse; the 
 joint answering the purpose of a heel, and furnishing a very 
 cheap kind of suwarrow. 
 
 Besides the clumsy carts, of which I have before spoken, 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 63 
 
 and the class of people that I have just described, my attention 
 was attracted by the appearance of the great ox waggons, used 
 in the trade with the interior. They are of an enormous 
 size, and are the most clumsy contrivances imaginable. 
 Five or six of these in a line, are sometimes seen groaning 
 along the street, the wheels making a noise like the gates on 
 their hinges of Milton's Pandemonium. The waggoners use 
 no tar to prevent them from making this harsh noise, as they 
 say it is music to the oxen, which are, in general, uncommonly 
 large, and the finest that I ever saw. Their yokes, in propor- 
 tion, are as ponderous as the waggon, and in drawing, nothing 
 is used but the raw hide strongly twisted. In fact, this is the 
 only kind of gears, or traces, used for all descriptions of car- 
 riages. To each of these enormous waggons there are, ge- 
 nerally, at least three drivers. One sits in the waggon, with a 
 long rod or goad in his hand, and above his head, suspended 
 in slings, there is a bamboo or cane, at least thirty feet in 
 length, as supple as a fishing-rod, so that it can, occasionally, 
 be used to quicken the pace of the foremost pair of oxen, which 
 are fastened to the first by a long trace of twisted hide. The 
 interval between the different pairs of oxen, is rendered neces- 
 sary by the difficulty of crossing small rivers, whose bottoms 
 are bad, and which are subject to sudden rises. Another 
 driver takes his seat on the yoke, between the heads of the 
 second pair of oxen, being also armed with a goad, with its 
 point turned backwards ; there was something extremely ludi- 
 crous to me, in the appearance of this last ; his bare, brawny 
 legs dangling in the air, and nothing but a folded sheep skin 
 to sit upon ; yet content, or rather inanity, was pictured in his 
 countenance. Besides these two, there is a third on horse- 
 back, armed in the same manner. If such an exhibition were 
 to pass through one of our streets, with its slow and solemn 
 movement and musical groanings, I doubt not, but it would 
 attract as much attention as half-a-dozen elephants. 
 
 As this is the fruit season, a number of people were crying 
 peaches up and down the street, but on horseback, with large 
 panniers, made of the raw hides of oxen, on each side. Milk, 
 in large tin cannisters, was cried about in the same way, and 
 as they passed in a tolerable trot, I expected every moment to 
 hear the cry changed to that of butter. As I moved along to- 
 wards the great square, a part of which is the principal market- 
 place, (immediately in front of the castle, or government-house,) 
 there appeared to be a great throng of people. I met some 
 priests and friars, but by no means as many as I expected, and 
 nothing like the number I met at Rio Janeiro. There are, 
 perhaps, fewer monasteries and convents in Buenos Ayres 
 
64 Voyage to Buenos Jtyres, 
 
 than in any Spanish town in the world. But, as things are 
 very much judged of by comparison, it is highly probable, that 
 if I had not touched at the place before-mentioned, and had 
 come directly herefrom one of our cities, I should have consi- 
 dered the number of regular and secular clergy very consider- 
 able. It must be constantly kept in view, that, in order to 
 judge of these people fairly, we are to compare them with 
 Spanish or Portuguese, and look at what they have been, not to 
 the state of things in the United States. The dress of the seculars 
 when in their canonicals, is like that of the episcopal clergy, 
 except that they wear a broad quaker-hat. The monks and 
 friars are easily distinguished by their habit of coarse cloth or 
 flannel, girt round the waist, and with a cowl or hood behind. 
 In speaking of the Catholic clergy, we, who know little about 
 them, are very much in the habit of confounding these two 
 classes. They are very different, both in character and ap- 
 pearance. The seculars are necessarily men of education, and 
 living and mingling in society, participate in the feelings of 
 the people, and cannot avoid, taking part in temporal affairs. 
 The monks, on the contrary, are gregarious, not dispersed 
 through the society, but shut up in their convents and monas- 
 teries, and not permitted to mingle in the affairs of the world. 
 From the first, it is natural to expect liberality and intelligence, 
 as well as from other christian clergy, but, in the latter, it would 
 not be surprising- to find superstition and ignorance. 
 
 On approaching the market-place, as it was still early in the 
 day, I found that the crowd had not entirely dispersed. There 
 is no market-house or stalls, except in the meat-market, si- 
 tuated on one corner of the square which fronts on the plaza. 
 Every thing offered for sale was spread on the ground. I can 
 say but little in favour of the appearance of cleanliness; dirt 
 and filth appeared to have a prescriptive right here. One who 
 had never seen any other than a Philadelphia market, can 
 form no idea of the condition of this place. To make amends, 
 it is admirably supplied with all the necessaries and delicacies 
 that an abundant and fruitful country can afford. Beef, 
 mutton, fowls, game, &c, with a variety of excellent fish, were 
 here in great plenty, and for prices, which, in our markets, 
 would be considered very low. Beef, particularly, is exceed- 
 ingly cheap, and of a superior quality ; it is the universal dish, 
 chiefly roasted. Absolute want is scarcely known in this coun- 
 try, any more than with us. As I passed by the hucksters 
 stalls, they presented a much richer display than any I had 
 been accustomed to see. Here, apples, grapes, oranges, pome- 
 granates, peaches, figs, pine-apples, water-melons, were 
 mingled in fair profusion. 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 65 
 
 The plaza, or great square, is at least twice as large as the 
 state-house-yard in Philadelphia, and is unequally divided into 
 two parts, by an edifice long* and low, which serves as a kind 
 of bazaar, or place of shops, with a corridor on each side the 
 whole length, which is used as a shelter for the market-people. 
 At these shops or stores, which are pretty well supplied, they 
 can make their purchases without the trouble of wandering" 
 through the town. The space between this and the fort is 
 that appropriated for the market. The opposite side, which is 
 much larger, is a kind of' place d' amies; and fronting the 
 building just spoken of, and which intercepts the view of the 
 fort, there is a very fine edifice, called the cabildo, or town- 
 house, somewhat resembling that of New Orleans, but much 
 larger. In this building the courts hold their sessions, and the 
 offices are kept. The city council, or cabildo, also sits here, 
 and business of all kinds, relating to the police, is here trans- 
 acted. Near the centre of the squ,are, a neat pyramid has 
 been erected, commemorative of the revolution, with four em- 
 blematic figures, one at each corner, representing- justice, 
 science, liberty, and America, the whole enclosed with a light 
 railing. 
 
 The shops, or stores, as far as I observed, in my perambula- 
 tion through the city, are all on a very small scale, and make 
 no shew as in our towns. There are but few signs, and those 
 belong chiefly to foreigners; such as sastre, botero, sapatero, de 
 Londres; taylor, boot-maker, shoe-maker, from London. The 
 greater part of the trades which are now flourishing here, 
 particularly hatters, blacksmiths, and many others that I might 
 enumerate, have been established since the revolution; the 
 journeymen mechanics are chiefly half Indians and mulat- 
 toes. The wages of an American or English journeyman are 
 higher than in any part of the world: 1,500 or 2,000 dollars 
 per annum, I am told, are very commonly given. There are 
 other squares through the town, besides the one already men- 
 tioned, in which markets are held. 
 
 There are also large yards, or corrals, which belong to the 
 city, and are hired to individuals, for the purpose of confining 
 droves of cattle. I observed several large wood-yards, in 
 which there were immense piles of peach limbs, tied into bun- 
 dles or faggots, together with timber and firewood brought 
 from Paraguay, or the Brazils. 
 
 In receding from the river towards the country, the streets 
 wear a much more mean appearance, being very dirty, and ap- 
 parently much neglected, while the houses seldom exceed one 
 story in height, and are built of brick scarcely half burnt. In 
 walking from the front streets, we seemed to be transferred, at 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. 6. VoL III, K 
 
00 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 once, to some half civilized village, 1,000 miles in the inte- 
 rior. Every where, in the skirts of the town, much of the In- 
 dian race is visible, generally a very poor, harmless, and indo- 
 lent people. They commonly speak nothing but Spanish, and, 
 but for their complexion, and inanimate countenances, they 
 could not be distinguished from the lower orders of the Spanish 
 Americans, such as the labourers, carters, countrymen, and 
 gauchos. It would be worth inquiring into the cause, why 
 none of the aborigines are found, in this manner, near any of 
 our towns, which possess the population and opulence of 
 Buenos Ayres. It surely does not arise from their having 
 been treated with more kindness here, or more pains having 
 been taken in their civilization, or, because the nations in the 
 vicinity are more numerous? I am inclined to attribute it to 
 two causes ; the first is, that the early settlers on this river were 
 soldiers, and having- few Spanish women with them, they were 
 compelled, like the Romans, to procure wives from their 
 neighbours, which laid the groundwork for a more friendly 
 intercourse between them and the natives, and this continued 
 even after the flourishing state of the colony enticed emigrants 
 of both sexes from Old Spain. Or, it may be, that these In- 
 dians are of a less wild and untameable character than those 
 of North America. But the principal reason is, the number of 
 Indians that have found their way hither from the missions of 
 Paraguay, since the expulsion of the Jesuits, and also from the 
 provinces of Peru, where they were a civilized people on the 
 first discovery and conquest. In forming our ideas of the 
 aborigines of South America, only by what we know of those 
 of the north, we may be led astray. Against Indians and 
 Spaniards, we have strong prejudices in the United States; 
 the man of sense should endeavour to rise above them. 
 
 On my way back to the hotel, I met a party of twenty or 
 thirty pampas [ndians on horseback, who had come to town, 
 for the purpose of bartering skins for such things as they 
 wanted. They excited no curiosity as they rode along the 
 street, although tricked out with their nosebobs and earbobs, 
 and, except the poncho, which they wore, entirely naked. 
 They were rather taller, and more square-shouldered than ours, 
 but their physiognomy was very nearly the same. 
 
 At this season of the year, many of the principal inhabitants 
 are still in the country, to which they retire, for a few months, 
 until the approach of cool weather. This is probably the most 
 pleasant season of the year, but the climate is seldom otherwise 
 than pleasant ; the range of the thermometer rarely exceeds 
 fifty degrees, and hardly ever rises within ten degrees as high 
 as with us. In the vast plains or pampas, which stretch from 
 
In 1817 and 181b. 67 
 
 the margin of the river, almost to the foot of the Cordilleras, 
 where there is no shade or shelter, or next to none, the heat 
 of the sun is said to be very oppressive ; travellers, therefore, 
 lie by in the middle of the day. The habit of the siesta, which 
 prevails so universally in this country, is perhaps an excuse 
 for this loss of time. It was now the hour here for this indul- 
 gence, and the change from the busy populous city, of a sudden, 
 to the silence and loneliness which takes place oh these occa- 
 sions, was peculiarly striking. The inhabitants generally dine 
 between one and two o'clock, and soon after retire to take 
 their evening's nap, which usually lasts until five or six, at 
 which hour the devotees go to vespers, or evening-prayers, in 
 the churches. I saw, however, a greater number of persons 
 in the streets than I had expected, and I am told that, of late 
 years, the habit has been sensibly decreasing. It was formerly 
 a saying, that, during the siesta, none but dogs and foreigners 
 were to be seen in the street. This is no longer true, the increase 
 of business and active employments having a good deal 
 broken in upon a custom, which could only owe its origin to that 
 indolence commonly proceeding from a want of incentive to 
 action. Such an incentive must certainly have been furnished 
 by the animated scenes of their revolution, and by the numerous 
 and important changes which it has produced. In very hot 
 climates, as in the West Indies, and the greater part of South 
 America, there may be some reason for thus reposing in the 
 middle of the day; the intense heat of the sun rendering it 
 unpleasant and dangerous, to labour in the open fields, and 
 the morning and evening affording them sufficient time to do 
 all their work. Providence, perhaps, in equalizing the benefits 
 of nature, has decreed, that people here should be circum- 
 scribed in their pursuits by the heat of the day, as in other 
 countries by the coldness of the winter. Without such dis- 
 pensations, the advantages would be too great on the side of 
 the warm climates. The climate of Buenos Ayres, however, 
 is not such as to render it necessary to avoid the sun in the 
 heat of the day. It resembles very much that to the south of 
 the Mississippi, in our Louisiana district of Texas, although 
 not quite so warm in summer, nor yet so cold in winter. The 
 south-west winds of the winter are exceedingly piercing, al- 
 though there is very seldom sufficient cold to incrust the 
 water with ice, but the frequent rains which fall at this season 
 renders it damp and chilly, as at New Orleans. The climate 
 of the southern latitudes, although they do not accord with the 
 same degree, north of the equator, in the eastern hemisphere, 
 fire yet several degrees warmer than in North America. This 
 place is situated in about 35 deg. south, and ought, therefore, 
 
 K2 
 
63 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 to correspond with the climate of Norfolk. But less cold is 
 felt here than in Charlestown or New Orleans. This is an 
 important consideration, with respect to the territory of the 
 republic to the southward of this place. Molina, the historian 
 of Chili, has taken pains to disprove, in his work, to which I 
 would refer the reader, the prevalent idea of the excessive cold 
 of Patagonia. I think it highly probable, that as high south as 
 latitude 50 deg. the climate is at least as mild as that of Phila- 
 delphia. On some other occasion, when I come to speak of the 
 geography of this vast country, I will say more on this subject. 
 The day after we arrived was Sunday, and the streets were 
 crowded with people. I was very frequently reminded of my 
 former place of residence, New Orleans, with the exception that 
 the proportion of coloured people is comparatively very small, 
 but amongst the lower classes I remarked a great many of 
 Indian extraction ; this was discovered in the complexion and 
 features. The inhabitants generally are a shade browner than 
 those of North America ; but I saw a great number with good 
 complexions. They are a handsome people. They have 
 nothing in their appearance and character of that dark, jealous, 
 and revengeful disposition, we have been in the habit of attri- 
 buting to Spaniards. The men dress pretty much as we do, 
 but the women are fond of wearing black when they go abroad. 
 The fashion of dress, in both sexes, I am informed, has under- 
 gone great improvement, since their free intercourse with 
 strangers. The old Spaniards, of whom there are considerable 
 numbers, are easily distinguished by their darker complexion, 
 the studied shabbiness of their dress, and the morose and surly 
 expression of countenance: this arises from their being- treated 
 as a sort of Jews, by those whom they were wont to consider as 
 greatly their inferiors. They are also distinguished by not 
 mounting the blue and white cockade, which is universally 
 worn by the citizens of the republic. The same number of 
 Chinese could scarcely form a class more distinct from the rest 
 of the community. There can hardly be a greater affront 
 offered to an Americana del Slid, than to call him a Spaniard. 
 A young fellow told me, in a jesting way, that the monks, friars, 
 and Spaniards, were generally old, and would soon die off, 
 which he said was a great consolation. 
 
 I went round to several of the churches, of which there are 
 ten or fifteen throughout the city. I shall not trouble the rea- 
 der with a description of them, as by referring' to books he can 
 learn their names, and the years in which they were founded. 
 All I shall say is, that those I saw were immense masses of 
 buildings, particularly the cathedral, which of itself covers 
 almost a whole square. The internal decorations are generally 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 69 
 
 rich and splendid, and the pomp of catholic worship is dis- 
 played here, pretty much as it is in other parts of the world. 
 3Iy attention was more attracted by the crowds of beautiful 
 women, going- and coming to the churches, and the graceful 
 elegance of their carriage. They walk more elegantly than 
 any women I ever saw. They are seen usually in family- 
 groups, but, according to the custom of the country, seldom 
 attended by gentlemen. There are usually a few beggars 
 about the church-doors, all blind or decrepit! with age. I am 
 informed there are two convents in the city, but I did not goto 
 see them, as I was told the nuns were all old and ugly. 
 
 A very animated and martial scene was presented to me, by 
 the exercising of the regular troops, and civic militia. The 
 black regiments made an uncommonly fine appearance, and 
 seemed to be in a very high state of discipline. The civic 
 militia is said to be fully as well trained as the regulars. I saw 
 several very fine bands of music. A battalion of slaves, con- 
 sisting of five or six hundred men, was also mustered, and 
 then marched to one of the churches. With all these things 
 going on, the city exhibited one of the most animating' scenes 
 I had ever witnessed. They are certainly a more enthusiastic, 
 and perhaps warlike people, than we are; if they possessed, 
 with these qualities, by way of ballast, something of our steady 
 habits, and general stock of information, I think they would 
 nearly equal us. 
 
 In the afternoon, in company with Dr. Baldwin, and a gen- 
 tleman with whom I became acquainted, I resolved, if possible, 
 to breathe the air outside of the city ; and being pedestrians, 
 we resolved to take it on foot, though horses might have been 
 bad, either to buy or hire, for the trip ; the difference in price 
 for these two modes of obtaining them, does not quite bear the 
 same proportion as with us. It would have cost us, probably, 
 one dollar and an half, or two dollars, for the hiring', while a 
 very good hackney might be bought for ten; but then it would 
 cost, at the livery-stable, three or four dollars a Meek to keep 
 him. 
 
 We directed our course up the river; the doctor was very 
 anxious to reach the open fields, for the purpose of pursuing- 
 his botanical researches, and I was equally desirous of reaching 
 some high ground, whence I might have a better view of the 
 city and its environs. We passed through a large square, the 
 greater part of which is occupied by an extensive circus, open 
 at the top, called the toro, or place for bull-fighting. It is 
 capable of containing a vast concourse of people. But I was 
 glad to hear that this barbarous amusement is fast going into 
 .disrepute, and that few of the respectable people now attend it. 
 
70 Voyage lo Buenos /lyres, 
 
 It is not surprising, that it should have been a place of fashion- 
 able resort, when it was attended by the viceroy and his court, 
 with much show and parade. Under the revolutionary govern- 
 ments it has been discountenanced, and should any member of 
 the government attend it, he mingles in the crowd of citizens. 
 But there may be a still better reason ; these are amongst the 
 contrivances of monarchy, to withdraw the attention of its sub- 
 jects from things that really concern them. The minds of 
 these people are now turned upon much more important ob- 
 jects than bull-fights. But the custom still prevails, and it 
 would be imprudent at once to abolish it; in this, as in other 
 matters, the reformer should go to work with a cautious hand. 
 As Lent is now nearly over, I am informed that the circus and 
 the theatre are to open next week. I will here mention an- 
 other instance of reform, which does honour to the present 
 director. This is in abolishing the silly custom which prevailed 
 here, as well as at Rio, of throwing wax-balls filled with water, 
 at people in the street, during three days at the end or 
 commencement of the carnival, I do not recollect which. He 
 effected it by a simple appeal, through the medium of the news- 
 papers, to their good sense, and their regard for those manners 
 which distinguish a polite from a barbarous people. 
 
 We continued our walk about two miles beyond the town, 
 but appeared to be no nearer the open fields, being completely 
 enclosed on all sides, by what are here called quintas, which 
 are large gardens of several acres, with abundance of fruit- 
 trees and vegetables. Many of these are owned by the inha- 
 bitants of the city, but they chiefly belong to people who make 
 a living by attending the market. There are very few of those 
 neat dwellings which are seen about our cities; the houses here 
 are chiefly small, and built of very indifferent brick. The 
 grape-vine, however, with which they are fond of adorning 
 their houses, had to me a very pleasing appearance, particularly 
 when loaded with their exquisite fruit. We stepped into one, 
 where our friend was acquainted, and were received with much 
 politeness and civility by the inhabitants; their countenances 
 seeming to brighten up, when told we were Americans of the 
 north. They treated us with fine peaches, pears, grapes, and 
 melons. Instead of pales, or fences, hedges of the prickly 
 pear are invariably used, which are planted on the mound of 
 earth, thrown up in digging the ditch on the outside. The soil 
 is like that of our best river bottoms, and its particles are so 
 fine, that the road at this season of the year is intolerably 
 dusty. 
 
 On our way back to town, our friend induced us to stop at a 
 spacious mansion, where there resided a gentleman whom he 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 71 
 
 knew, named La Rocca. This gentleman's establishment 
 forms a prominent exception to what I have just been describ- 
 ing; his grounds are surrounded by a brick-wall; his build- 
 ings, gardens, &c. all upon a more extensive scale. We en- 
 tered through a lofty gate-way, into a spacious court. The 
 servant informed us that his master, with several other gentle- 
 men, was on the terrace at the top of the house, and at our re- 
 quest conducted us up. I was glad of the occasion, as I was 
 told that there was a very fine view from this place. We were 
 treated by La Rocca with great attention, and we found him a 
 man of liberal and enlightened mind. He is a native of old 
 Spain, but has been naturalized, and has taken an active part 
 in the revolution. He pointed out to us a beautiful grove of 
 olives, which he had planted after the Spanish system, which 
 forbade the cultivation of this invaluable plant, had been abo- 
 lished. The other gentlemen who were with him were his 
 neighbours, natives of the country, and were sensible and well- 
 informed. I learned from them that our arrival had excited 
 great interest throughout the city, and that many conjectures 
 as to our object were afloat. They seemed all to agree, that 
 nothing of an unfriendly nature could be expected from our 
 government, and seemed to be very much hurt at the unfavour- 
 able impressions which had been made in the United States as 
 to the state of things in this country, by publications in the 
 newspapers. They said that they had no right to expect any 
 friendship or sympathy from us, if their institutions were really 
 so vile as had been represented. They said, it was natural to 
 expect, that as their enemies were notable to subdue them, they 
 would endeavour to ruin their character ; and for this purpose, 
 they would seize and magnify every real, or alleged error, or 
 misconduct. La Rocca here drew an animated comparison 
 between the state of things in Spain and in this country, highly 
 favourable, as may be supposed, to the latter. He told me it 
 was their intention to establish a government as nearly resem- 
 bling that of the United States as circumstances would permit. 
 He inquired, vn'th a considerable earnestness, as to the truth of 
 a report of our government having endeavoured to obtain a 
 cession of territory from the king- of Naples, and laid great 
 stress on the circumstance of our having no colonies, and, from 
 the nature of our constitution, not being permitted to have any. 
 He said it was impossible for them to repose full confidence in 
 the friendship of nations holding colonies, and they were sorry 
 to see us deviating in the slightest degree from what they 
 understood was with us a fundamental maxim. If we could 
 have colonies in Italy, we might have them in America, in 
 Africa, and in Asia. 
 
72 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 As the house stood upon ground somewhat more elevated 
 than the city, and not more than three hundred yards from the 
 river, there was a very extensive horizon in every direction. 
 In a clear day, Colonia, on the opposite side of the river, is 
 visible from this place ; but at present, as the atmosphere was 
 somewhat obscured, and a stiff north-easter blowing", nothing' 
 was presented to the eye but a vast expanse of water, the Mos- 
 queto fleet of sloops, and small coasting vessels, tossing about 
 below us, and those of a larger kind anchored in the outer 
 roads ; the whole having a very dreary appearance. On the 
 land side, we seemed to look over the city, which covers an 
 extent of ground nearly as great as Philadelphia, with quintas 
 up and down the river, whose variety of fruit-trees, with here 
 and there a Lombardy poplar intermixed, exhibited a very 
 lively and pleasing appearance ; while to the westward, at the 
 distance of a few miles, there seems to be a boundless waste of 
 pampas, or grassy plains, without a tree or shrub. The whole 
 population of the country is not greater than that of the city. 
 In fact, the real limits of the province are exceedingly circum- 
 scribed. About forty miles north of this, is a large village 
 called Luxan, at which the road branches off for Cordova and 
 Mendoza, there commences a line of presidios, extending* south- 
 erly across the Salado to the river Colorada, which marks the 
 southern boundary of the province. This line of posts was 
 originally established for the purpose of protecting' the settle- 
 ments from the incursions of the wild pampas Indians, who 
 were then a most dangerous and formidable enemy. But of 
 late years, they have ceased to be dreaded, and their incursions 
 have only for their object, stealing cattle and horses. While 
 
 1 am upon this subject, I will say something as to the manner 
 in which the population is distributed in this country, intending 
 to enlarge on the subject on some future occasion. 
 
 Under the viceroyalty, a line of 250 miles north and south, 
 and 100 miles east and west, would have included the whole 
 population of the province; but this was distributed in a man- 
 ner singularly unequal; some parts being- as thickly inhabited 
 as the neighbourhood of Philadelphia, and the rest as wild as 
 the plains of the Missouri. Since the revolution, the frontier 
 has been considerably extended, and this province, as well as 
 the others of the union, which have been exempt from the im- 
 mediate devastations of war, have had a considerable increase 
 of inhabitants. The city of Buenos Ayres, and its vicinity, 
 probably ten miles square, contains about 70,000 inhabitants; 
 the villages of Luxan, Ensenada, Las Couchas, and a few 
 others, with their circumscribed vicinages, may contain from 
 
 2 to 5,000, and as the whole population does not exceed 105,000, 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 73 
 
 all the remainder of the province is left for the rest, not exceed- 
 ing- 15 or 20,000 in number. Immediately around the towns 
 and villages, are the quintas of which I have spoken, chiefly 
 appropriated to the raising- of vegetables and fruits ; next come 
 the larger farms, or chacras, where wheat, Indian corn, and 
 barley, are raised as with us ; but according to a very different, 
 and as far as I can learn, a very inferior system of 4 agriculture. 
 These have not the same aversion to neighbourhood, as the old 
 Virginia planter, who declared, he never would wish to live so 
 near as to hear the barking- of his neighbours' dogs. The 
 mode of cultivating- the earth, of enclosing their grounds, and 
 their rural economy in general, would furnish many curious 
 topics'; but these I must waive for the present. The soil is, 
 undoubtedly, the finest in the world ; but they labour under 
 great disadvantages from a deficiency of water, as the streams, 
 which are not numerous, are apt to go dry in summer. They 
 are, therefore, compelled to make reservoirs for the reception of 
 rain-water, when at too great a distance from the river. Their 
 crops are, notwithstanding, superior to ours, and are rarely 
 known to fail. In the uncultivated waste which spreads around 
 these specks of civilization, are what are called the eslancias, 
 or grazing farms, which constitute the principal fortunes of 
 the rich, and are of various dimensions, some as large as our 
 townships, or even counties. They have from 20 to 60,000 
 head of cattle on one of these estates. Before the revolution, 
 they were valued at about one dollar for every head of cattle; 
 for the land was scarcely taken into the account. Since that 
 period, the value of both has more than doubled. From this, 
 it will be seen, that a grazing farm in the Opeloussa, of 10 or 
 15,000 head, valued at ten dollars each, is worth as much as an 
 estancia here of 50,000. The care of these is consigned 
 to those half-horse half-men, of whom I have already spoken, 
 under the appellation of gauchos. 
 
 Since the revolution there has been a much greater disposi- 
 tion to settle in the country than formerly ; arising, no doubt, 
 from the enhanced price of the produce of the soil ; and also 
 from the greater safety from Indian depredations. Whether 
 the people consider themselves more secure in their titles, I 
 shall not take upon me to say ; but I am assured that no un- 
 easiness, or fear, prevails as to their safety from Spanish inva- 
 sion. La Rocca, and his friends, inquired with consider- 
 able eagerness about the European emigration to the United 
 States, which they looked upon as an increase of wealth and 
 strength, the acquisition of which they appeared to envy us. 
 They said that every inducement was held out by the gdvern- 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. 6. Vol. Ill, L 
 
74 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 ment and people of this country, to Europeans who were dis- 
 posed to emigrate ; that lands were offered gratis, with oxen 
 and the implements of husbandry, to those who wish to culti- 
 vate the earth. In reply, I told them, that there was little or 
 no emigration to the United States during our revolutionary 
 war, and even for some time afterwards, in consequence of the 
 country being engaged in a war for national existence, the 
 success of which was doubtful ; end even after it was no 
 longer so, our enemies persisted in believing that, we could not 
 establish a government. I told them that if they could sa- 
 tisfy the world on these two points, as we had done, they would 
 have as many emigrants as they could desire, as their soil and 
 climate held out even greater inducements than ours. 
 
 On the Monday after our arrival, it was determined, on the 
 part of the commissioners, that I should wait on Mr. Tagle, 
 the secretary-of-state, and request an interview on their behalf. 
 
 I accordingly went in company with our consul, Mr. Hal- 
 cey. We found, at the entrance of the fort, a centinel, and a 
 guard of a few men ; although every person is permitted to 
 pass without being questioned. To me, as an American, the 
 circumstance of seeing bayonets stationed every where, was far 
 from being agreeable. In our happy country we stand in no 
 need of such barbarous usages. This military show about the 
 director's residence, and the offices of government, is, how- 
 ever, but a remnant of the pageantry of the viceroys. There 
 is, indeed, much more of it displayed, as I have myself fre- 
 quently witnessed, by the Spanish or Portuguese governor of 
 some trifling district. 
 
 In going to the office of the secretary-of-state, we had to 
 pass through several others, iu which a number of clerks were 
 engaged ; the appearance of system and regularity which pre- 
 vailed, would not lose by a comparison with ours. We found 
 the secretary immersed in business, at his desk. I stated to 
 him the occasion of my visit, and, at the same time, presented 
 a newspaper, containing the president's message, in which the 
 objects of the mission were succinctly set forth. I stated. to 
 him, that the commissioners were desirous of waiting on him, 
 and wished to be informed at what time it would be conveni- 
 ent for him to receive them. He replied, in the style of Spa- 
 nish politeness, that he was always at their disposal, and in- 
 sisted upon my naming the time at which he might be honoured 
 with their visit; the Wednesday following was, therefore, 
 named by me. 
 
 He is a small, well-set man, about forty years of age, of a 
 dark complexion, with a keen, penetrating eye. He has the 
 reputation of considerable abilities; he is considered a very 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 75 
 
 able and eloquent lawyer, and has been a judge of the cham- 
 ber of appeals. Judging- from his physiognomy, I should say 
 that he possesses great native sagacity, and quickness of dis- 
 cernment. He came into office under Alvarez, and has conti- 
 nued in it ever since. 
 
 Our arrival produced a great sensation through the city in 
 all classes of people ; it was every where the subject of con- 
 versation, and gave rise to much surmise ; for some days it, in 
 fact, engrossed all the public attention. A small incident will 
 sometimes speak more than things of a thousand times greater 
 importance. In passing by the pyramid, in the great square, 
 I observed, that some preparations had been making for an 
 approaching illumination, on account of the declaration of in- 
 dependence by Chili ; I asked a little boy who was playing 
 about it, what was the meaning of these preparations ? " For 
 lajuncion;" " que juncion? " "LaJ'uncion de los diputados" 
 said he pettishly, as if surprised at my ignorance, " de los di- 
 putados que han lleqado de la America del norte." I have no 
 doubt, the government and the people will make the most of 
 the mission, and it will certainly have a most powerful moral 
 influence on the cause of South America. 
 
 The commissioners, on the day appointed, paid their res- 
 pects to the secretary-of-state, and Mr. Rodney, after stating 
 the objects of the mission, expressed the wishes of himself and 
 associates, to wait on the supreme director. The secretary 
 stated, that the government was highly gratified by this notice, 
 from a nation of so high a character as ours, and he offered his 
 services to accompany the commissioners on their visit to the 
 chief-magistrate. 
 
 Accordingly, the next day, about noon, we set off to pay 
 this visit of ceremony. On approaching the fort, we found 
 several hundred of the most respectable citizens drawn toge- 
 ther by the interest of the occasion, their dress, appearance, 
 and demeanour, was like that of persons of the same rank of 
 society in the United States. Nothing I had yet seen gave 
 me so high an opinion of the population. We found, also, 
 considerable numbers inside the fort, and crowding the en- 
 trance to the director's apartments. I can give no idea of the 
 pleasure which seemed to be depicted in their countenances. 
 They all bowed to us as we passed, and said more by their 
 smiles and their looks, than they could have said if each one 
 bad pronounced an oration. 
 
 In passing through the different offices, to that of the secre- 
 tary-of-state, we saw a great number of civil officers and func- 
 tionaries, drawn together by what appeared to be no common 
 holiday, and who shewed us the same marks of respect. The 
 
 L2 
 
76 Voyage to Buenos Ayies, 
 
 secretary now joined us, and led us up stairs, to the apart- 
 ments occupied by the director. We passed through a large 
 hall, where we saw fifty or sixty officers of the regular and 
 civic troops, all in splendid uniforms. They arose, as we en- 
 tered, forming a line on each side, through which we passed. 
 In the adjoining apartment, we were met by the director, who, 
 with the ease and affability of a polished gentleman, advanced 
 to meet us, and requested us to be seated. He seemed to be 
 upwards of forty years of age, his stature about the middle- 
 size, a little inclining to corpulency, and, upon the whole, his 
 appearance commanding and dignified. His address and 
 manners were those of a person accustomed to the best society, 
 equally removed from coarseness and affectation. It was 
 easily discoverable, that he was a man who had been long ac- 
 customed to act a distinguished part in life. He certainly 
 looked like a person who might be chosen by a nation for its 
 magistrate, and no stranger could be surprised at seeing such 
 a man at its head. Though a native of this place, his father 
 was a Swiss, who settled in this country as a merchant, in 
 early youth. His complexion is fair, with blue eyes; his 
 countenance expressive of intelligence and humanity. He 
 has the character of great application to busines, and of that 
 temperate energy so essential in revolutionary times. Some, 
 with no better opportunities of judging than myself, but pos- 
 sessing much deeper penetration into the secret workings of 
 the human heart, could discover that, like Belial, all within 
 was false and hollow ; but I must honestly acknowledge, that, 
 for my part, I could not. 
 
 After the usual compliments, and some conversation on ge- 
 neral topics, Mr. Rodney repeated, in substance, what he had 
 said, with respect to the object of the mission, to the secretary 
 the day before. 
 
 On this, the director replied to the commissioners as follows: 
 He declared that, for his country, and for himself, he entertained 
 the highest sense of the honour conferred by this friendly notice 
 on the part of the government of the United States. " We 
 have long since been aware," said he, " that the most friendly 
 feelings and wishes existed towards us, on the part of your 
 country and government. We have ever regarded your coun- 
 try with enthusiastic admiration. We appreciate fully its high 
 character for justice, disinterestedness, and sincerity, and it is 
 beyond the power of words to express how gratifying to us all 
 is this proof of its good wishes. That there should exist a real 
 and unfeigned friendship and sympathy between us is natural. 
 We inhabit the same portion of the globe, our cause has been 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 77 
 
 once yours, and we are in pursuit of the same objects which 
 you have so happily achieved. 
 
 " You will see many things amongst us to excite your sur- 
 prise. We are a people tcho are just beginning to be. We 
 have had great difficulties to encounter, and have laboured 
 under extraordinary disadvantages. I feel confident, how- 
 ever, that when you come to be better acquainted with our 
 country, you will find that the most ardent love of liberty and 
 independence pervades every part of this community ; that in 
 pursuit of these great objects we are all united, and that we are 
 resolved to perish sooner than surrender them. At the same 
 time, we must confess, with deep regret, that dissentions still 
 
 {>revail between different sections of this republic, and which 
 lave unfortunately placed one of the most important portions 
 of our country in the hands of a stranger. 
 
 "With respect to the objects of the mission, I am anxious 
 to meet the wishes of the commissioners in every particular. 
 I hope all forms of diplomacy may be waived ; that all com- 
 munications may be held as between friends and brothers ; 
 that, whenever it may suit the pleasure or convenience of the 
 commissioners, they will address themselves personally to me, 
 or to the secretary-of-state, who will always be found at leisure 
 to attend to them." 
 
 Mr. Rodney having made a suitable reply to this address, of 
 which I have given the substance, we took our leave. 
 
 In the course of the forenoon, a General Ascuenaga, and 
 some other officers of distinction, made their appearance, for 
 the purpose of returning our visit to the director, as I under- 
 stand to be the custom on such occasions. The general made 
 a long harangue, which did not amount to much, and then 
 took his leave. Shortly after, we were waited on by the city- 
 council, or cabildo, and a number of other gentlemen of dis- 
 tinction, and amongst them a very sensible and intelligent 
 man, Gascon, the secretary of the treasury. The conversa- 
 tion of course, on these occasions, was very general. They 
 were all, however, complimentary to our country, while they 
 spoke in a very humble manner of the state of things in their 
 own. 
 
 In the evening, a guard-of-honour, and a band of music, 
 with the Baron Ollenburg, a German officer, in the ser- 
 vice of the republic, and some other officers, made their ap- 
 pearance in the patio. It was given to be understood, that they 
 had come by the orders of the director. They were politely 
 received by the commissioners, but it was suggested, in a deli- 
 cate manner, that the guard could not be accepted. Upon 
 jhis, it withdrew, but the band continued playing for several 
 
78 Voyaye to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 hours, and during that time, the patio was crowded with la- 
 dies and gentlemen, and by a great many that could not with 
 propriety be ranked under either of these denominations. 
 
 The dismissal of the guard was thought of sufficient import- 
 ance to merit an explanation with the director. Mr. Rodney 
 and Mr. Bland accordingly called upon him the next morning 
 for this purpose. Mr. Rodney was going to state the circum- 
 stance and the apology, when the director requested permission 
 to anticipate what he was about to say. He said he was per- 
 fectly aware of the motives of the commissioners in declining 
 to accept the guard. It was not offered under any idea that 
 it was necessary for their safety, but that, according to the cus- 
 toms of the country, it was one of the modes of shewing re- 
 spect to distinguished strangers; who were, however, perfectly 
 at liberty to accept, or not, according to their pleasure. He 
 said, that, in order to satisfy his fellow-citizens, who Mere de- 
 sirous that every attention should be paid to the commissioners, 
 as well as for the purpose of gratifying his own feelings, he 
 was anxious that no mark of respect should be omitted. He 
 had discharged his duty, and satisfied the expectations of the 
 public. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 The Commissioners visited by the principal Inhabitants — Cele- 
 bration of the Independence of Chili — The Bull-Jiyhts and 
 Theatre. 
 
 After an ineffectual search of several days for a furnished 
 house, where the mission might be accommodated, our consul, 
 Mr. Halsey, had politely made an offer of his, which was large 
 and commodious. It was accepted, though not without reluct- 
 ance, from an unwillingness to put him to inconvenience. 
 Several houses had been previously examined, but were not 
 found suited to our purpose, not to speak of the extravagant 
 demands of the owners. Some of the gentlemen who had 
 taken lodgings, were glad to change their situations, in order 
 to avoid being teazed to death by a certain race, not to be 
 named in good housewifery. The brick floors of the chambers 
 are supposed to favour the multiplication of these tormentors. 
 For my part, I have been fortunate enough to procure a fur- 
 nished room, for twelve dollars per month, in the house of a 
 decent elderly widow; it was situated in the patio, a beautiful 
 aromatic shrub on one side of the door, and a jessamine on 
 the other, and the neatness and cleanliness which prevailed 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 79 
 
 every where, could not be surpassed. I found my situation so 
 comfortable that I was unwilling to change it, even after the 
 commissioners had been fixed in their new establishment. 
 Donna 31arcella was, besides, an acquaintance of some import- 
 ance; she knew every one in the city, was shrewd and intel- 
 ligent, and far from being inclined to hide her light under a 
 bushel. Her house was much frequented by the middle class 
 of people, and even occasionally by those of the higher 
 ranks, if there can properly be said to be any distinction ; for 
 the equality prevailing in this respect, is much greater than in 
 the United States ; the transition is very sudden, from the re- 
 spectable part of the community to the lowest grades ; the 
 difference can scarcely be considered as founded on the differ- 
 ence of occupations, and not always on purity of character, 
 and correctness of deportment. 
 
 After the formalities and ceremonies of our reception by 
 the authorities of the state and city, we had next to go through 
 the duty of receiving and returning' visits, which was attended 
 with no small consumption of time. The proportion of the 
 military and clergy among- our visitors, led us to form rather 
 an unfavourable opinion of their influence in society. In our 
 cities, on occasions like the present, the most prominent per- 
 sons, after those in public life, would be of the professions, the 
 clergymen, lawyers, and physicians, gentlemen in easy cir- 
 cumstances, and merchants of standing. But some allowance 
 was to be made for the warlike attitude this city has so long 
 maintained, and the tendency of arms to arrogate all public 
 attention and importance. I afterwards found, also, that many 
 of the military figurantes were something like Dr. Ollapod, of 
 the corps of the Galen's head, not soldiers by profession, but 
 probably not wanting in courage to face an invading enemy. 
 In the short and superficial conversations which usually took 
 place, much information could not be gleaned ; they generally 
 turned upon the political events of the country. They uni- 
 formly spoke with great humility of their political transactions, 
 but dwelt with satisfaction on their efforts in war, and express- 
 ed no doubt, or apprehension, of their ultimate success. They 
 lamented the want of general information, and in speaking of 
 the Spanish 'mis-government, the neglect of education and 
 morals was always the most prominent theme. The frequent 
 changes and revolutions amongst them ; the dissentions be- 
 tween different provinces, when a concentration of all their 
 strength was necessary, and the instability of the government 
 hitherto, were spoken of with evident regret. They contrasted 
 these evils with the Elysian fields, which their imaginations 
 represented to them in the United States ; the country where 
 
80 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 factions and dissentions are unknown ; where unity of sentn 
 ment and brotherly love every where prevail. This language 
 could only be considered complimentary, for some of them, I 
 found, were not ignorant of our " faults on both sides," although 
 they had never read Mr. Carey's Olive Branch. We could do 
 no less than compliment them in turn, and speak in high terms 
 of the proofs they bad given of national spirit. 
 
 Among our most distinguished visitors, were Alvarez and 
 Rondeau, the former a young man of twenty-eight or thirty, of 
 iine appearance and elegant manners. He appeared to be ex- 
 tremely desirous of cultivating our acquaintance: his conver- 
 sation was interesting and intelligent. He had been in the army 
 from his youth ; he is a native of Arequipa in Peru, and has 
 several brothers at this time in the Spanish service — such is the 
 nature of civil war. He is married to a niece of General Bel- 
 grano, a very superior woman, both in point of personal beauty 
 and accomplishments ; he possesses an elevation and manliness 
 of character that would do honour to any country. Rondeau is 
 a small man, but of a firm and manly carriage, apparently about 
 fifty years of age. He was one of the prisoners taken by the 
 British on their first invasion of this country, and carried to 
 England, whence he found his way to Spain, and served some 
 time in the war of the Peninsula, but returned to Buenos Ayres, 
 like other Americans, when his country required his services. 
 He has taken a distinguished part in the revolution, was several 
 times entrusted with the siege of Monte Video, and had brought 
 it nearly to a close, when superseded by Alvear. He gained 
 two victories over the Spaniards in Peru, but lost the battle of 
 Sipe-sipe in November, 1815, though not through deficiency of 
 skill and prudence, which was admitted by his opponent, the 
 Spanish general, Pezuela. He was, however, recalled from 
 the command, and his popularity was for a time obscured. He 
 has an amiable family, but like most of the distinguished officers 
 in this service, his circumstances are rather narrow. Another 
 officer of distinction is General Soler, a remarkably fine figure, 
 six feet two or three inches in height, and of a very soldierly 
 appearance. In private life, however, he is said to be dissi- 
 pated, and some anecdotes are related of him which give a 
 somewhat unfavourable cast to the state of manners. His wife 
 is a very beautiful but high-spirited woman. Soler commanded 
 the vanguard which crossed the Andes, and for his conduct at 
 the battle of Chacabuco, was presented with a sword on the 
 field by San Martin. This gave rise to a series of publications ; 
 his enemies not conceiving him entitled to the reward : those 
 who are inclined to take the middle course, say, that it was an 
 act of generosity on the part of San Martin ; that the act for 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 81 
 
 which be rewarded Soler, was in reality performed by himself, 
 but that Soler had rendered important services as a disciplina- 
 rian, and in crossing the mountains. Thus it will be perceived, 
 that the same jealousy of their military fame prevails in this 
 country as in others. A collection of the different publications 
 of tin's description, that have issued from the press of Buenos 
 Ayres, will furnish some valuable materials for history. We 
 were sometimes visited by Sarratea, who has once been a con- 
 spicuous member of the government, and afterwards an agent 
 of the court of London. He is a man of considerable talents 
 and general information ; but, from all I could learn, does not 
 stand high in the government, and still lower with the people. 
 
 We frequently saw a venerable old man, Funes, dean of 
 Cordova, and the author of the Civil History of Buenos Ayres. 
 Few have taken a more active part in the political events of the 
 country. He received the rudiments of his education from the 
 Jesuits, and afterwards completed it in Spain. He is an ex- 
 cellent belles-lettres scholar, and his writings bear evidence of 
 his extensive reading and classic taste. In the year 1810, at a 
 council convened by Liniers and Concha, he was the only one 
 who voted in favour of acknowledging the junta of Buenos 
 Ayres ; when the troops of that place marched against Cordova, 
 he and his brother interceded for the life of Liniers, and the 
 Bishop Orillana; but, as respects the first, without success. He 
 was afterwards a member of the junta of observation, and took 
 an active part in the politics of the day. In the revolutionary 
 convulsions which ensued, he experienced his share of mortifi- 
 cations. He does cot seem to have foreseen the troubled and 
 distracted state necessarily produced by such events, and, in 
 consequence, to be somewhat under the influence of chagrin 
 and disappointment. His interests and feelings attaching him 
 to Cordova, his native place, he is inclined towards what is 
 called here the federative system, which is essentially different 
 from ours; but he also thinks that until their independence 
 can be accomplished, it is absolutely necessary to waive all 
 pretensions of this kind, for the sake of a concentration of their 
 strength. I cultivated his acquaintance with assiduity, and 
 through him became acquainted with a number of others who 
 frequented his house. The native priests, in general, though 
 enthusiastic in the cause, and fond of indulging in eloquent 
 declamations, are rather timid politicians. They want nerve 
 for action, and they have a kind of time-serving suppleness, 
 acquired by the early habits of slavish and monastic education. 
 In the profession of the law there is much more boldness, aris- 
 ing from their daily intercourse with the world, and ordinary 
 transactions of life. Funes is thought to be rather unfriendly 
 
 Voyages and Travels, JVo. 6. Vol. III. M 
 
82 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 to the present administration, but his having withdrawn from 
 
 Eolitical scenes is rather to be attributed to alarm at finding 
 imself on a rougher sea than he had been accustomed to 
 navigate.* 
 
 A visit was received from the Bishop of Salta, a man of very 
 advanced years, upwards of eighty, and who was thought not 
 to be much attached to the cause of the revolution ; indeed, it 
 has been hinted that his residence here is very little else than 
 a kind of respectful surveillance. He said little on the subject 
 of politics, but dropped something about the want of stability 
 in the government, the turbulent and restless spirit that pre- 
 vailed, and then shook his head. It would certainly have been 
 a phenomenon to have found a revolutionary patriot at his 
 years, with his previous education and habits. 
 
 3Ir. Rodney and myself paid a visit to a respectable old man, 
 who fills the office wnich we should call postmaster-general ; 
 he appeared to be about the same age with the bishop, but we 
 found him a much more agreeable character, his conversation 
 remarkably sprightly and entertaining. He told us that he 
 had organized the establishment, and had occupied the same 
 arm-chair in which he then sat at his desk, upwards of fifty 
 years. Although a native of Spain, he was attached to the 
 patriot cause, having children and grand-children who were all 
 natives of the country. We inquired of him the news from 
 Chili, and he informed us that, from the last accounts, General 
 Osorio was advancing into the province of Conception, at the 
 head of five or six thousand men. We learned, that besides 
 the regular post establishment, which brought the mail once a 
 week from the different provinces, there were expresses conti- 
 nually employed between this place and Chili, as also the pro- 
 vinces of Peru, so as to bring intelligence from the armies of 
 San Martin and Belgrano, with a speed almost incredible.f 
 He told us that his establishment was so arranged, as to enable 
 him, in the course of ten days, to collect horses enough for the 
 "different posts to enable the government to send reinforce- 
 ments of 1000, or 2000 men, to these different points, 
 with a rapidity unknown in any other country. He said, that 
 since the commencement of the war, he had contributed his 
 assistance, in sending three armies to Peru ; one of four, 
 another of five, and a third of 7000 men, and in speak- 
 
 * He is at this time President of Congress. 
 
 f The journey from Meiuloza to Buenos Ayres, upwards of 900 miles, 
 was performed by the express, Escalera, in live days, and from Potosi to 
 Buenos Ayres, 550 leagues, by Dobo, in twelve days. 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 83 
 
 ing of the perseverance of these people in the midst of all 
 their defeats and reverses, he exclaimed, " Que peGho, que 
 pecho, tiene esta gente !" — " What fortitude do these people 
 possess !" 
 
 We were also visited by Iregoyen, the secretary-at-war, a 
 young man of thirty-five years of age ; he had been a cadet in 
 the Spanish naval service, and had travelled a good deal in 
 Europe. He is rather a shewy man, and from what I could 
 learn, extremely ambitious. We were also visited by members 
 of congress, Zavaletta, Pacheco, Villegas, and a number of 
 others. Among the priests who called on us, was Dr. Bel- 
 grano, brother of the general, and who appeared to be a man 
 of solid and respectable talents. The term doctor is given 
 indiscriminately to lawyers and clergymen, but not to physi- 
 cians ; in fact, the science of medicine is extremely low in all 
 the .Spanish colonies, and it is very unusual to meet with a 
 Spanish physician of science and learning. 
 
 Among our acquaintances, there were two or three with 
 whom I was particularly pleased ; the first, a respectable old 
 man,, and a near neighbour, of the name of Escalada, the 
 father-in-law of San Martin ; this old man was what we should 
 have called, in our revolutionary war, a true Whiff. He has a 
 large and fine family of children, and grand-children ; his 
 house, the place of most agreeable resort for all strangers of 
 any in the city. I frequently spent my evenings here, being 
 almost always sure to find an agreeable party of ladies and 
 gentlemen ; the evening was usually passed in sprightly con- 
 versation, or in dances, which the old gentleman seemed to 
 take a peculiar pleasure in promoting, very frequently taking 
 part himself, though upwards of seventy years of age : these 
 dances were minuets, to the music of the piano, touched by one 
 of the young ladies. He had adopted a beautiful and interest- 
 ing girl, then about seventeen, the daughter of a Spanish 
 governor-intendant, and seemed to treat her with the same 
 affection and kindness that he did his own children. The wife 
 of General San Martin was, at this time, living with her father, 
 but appeared to be much dejected in spirits on account of her 
 anxiety for her husband, to whom, from all accounts, she is 
 devotedly attached. She had accompanied him to the foot of 
 the Andes, wished to follow his fortunes across, and was, with 
 much difficulty, dissuaded. Perceiving that she partook in 
 none of the amusements, on inquiring the cause, I was told that 
 she had made a vow of some kind for the success of her hus- 
 band, which I could not well understand. These private and 
 unobtrusive virtues in the family of San Martin, gave me a very 
 favourable opinion of the man ; the excellence and purity of 
 
 M 2 
 
$4 Voyage to Buenos Jlyres, 
 
 private life is, after all, the best foundation of public confidence* 
 There can be no dignity of character without thera, and we are 
 seldom mistaken in the purity of the actions of men, when this 
 fountain is pure. While in Buenos Ayres, I have frequently 
 heard San Martin and his wife cited as an example of a happy 
 marriage ; which is by no means negative praise, in a country 
 where morals are unfortunately depraved, and where the mar- 
 riage state is held in too little respect. They have but one 
 child, a daughter, three or four years of age. Escalada is a 
 plain citizen, and has never taken any other part than that of 
 a private individual ; but he has been enabled, from the pos- 
 session of considerable wealth, to render service to the cause: 
 he presented each of us with copies of different political works, 
 which he had purchased, for the purpose of distributing gratis ; 
 among them, was a history of the United States, with our de- 
 claration of independence, General Washington's Farewell 
 Address, and other pieces. Besides his son-in-law, his wife's, 
 brother, Quintana, * is in the army of Chili, and his two sons, 
 one eighteen, the other twenty years of age, both gallant youths, 
 are serving - under the eye of San Martin. We experienced, on 
 all occasions, from this old gentleman, the utmost kindness and 
 attention, and were invited by him to a splendid entertainment,, 
 at a moment when his Avhole family appeared to be depressed 
 by the most anxious feelings for the fate of their near relations, 
 exposed to the hazards of a dreadful war. 
 
 M. Frias, a young lawyer of respectability, and secretary to 
 the cabildo, was one of our most agreeable acquaintances ; his 
 manners were highly polished and refined, and he possesses a 
 generosity of heart, a warmth and earnestness of feeling, which 
 shewed, that although born under a despotic government, his 
 character was formed in a republic. He seemed to be peculi- 
 arly anxious to cultivate our acquaintance, and to acquire a 
 knowledge of the details of our political institutions. I derived 
 considerable information from him, as well as assistance in pro- 
 curing papers and documents. He has been married some 
 years to an amiable woman. The ladies are much less addicted 
 to literature than in the United States, in general, but much 
 more so than those of New Orleans. The Spanish literature is, 
 in fact, richer in works which combine moral instruction with 
 amusement, than the French ; I observed the sister of 31. Frias, 
 
 * This officer was one of those who distinguished themselves in the de- 
 fence against the British. See Funes, Vol. III. p. 427. It is worthy of 
 notice, that many of those who are now most conspicuous were distinguished 
 at that period ; Dias Velis, Viamonte, and Montes de Oca, then hut a 
 youth. 
 
In 1817 and ISIS. 85 
 
 treading a translation of Pamela, and I learned that the novels 
 of Richardson are much esteemed among them. 
 
 M. Riglos is another of those whose acquaintance we found 
 particularly agreeable. He is of a highly respectable family, 
 and educated in England ; he is also a specimen of the young 
 South Americans, whose mind has been formed under the new 
 order of things. He has nothing of the Spanish reserve and 
 distrust in his deportment ; his manners, like those of his 
 countrymen, are highly polished, but without that fastidious 
 attention to etiquette, which is so troublesome to a stranger. 
 This gentleman spoke the English remarkably well. The 
 house of Madam Riglos, his mother, who is a widow, is consi- 
 dered one of the most genteel in the city; I have seen few 
 ladies of more polished manners, and I had frequent opportuni- 
 ties of meeting here the most fashionable people. 
 
 Soon after our arrival, we became acquainted with a number 
 of strangers, and some Americans settled here. We were fre- 
 quently visited by the British officer, at present commanding 
 on that station, a man of free and obliging manners and 
 address, but somewhat inclined to be caustic and severe in his 
 remarks, so that considerable allowance was necessary to be 
 made for this propensity, for at times he gave a much more 
 favourable account of things than at others. Mr. Staples, 
 the British consul, or agent, though a much plainer man, ap- 
 peared to be more solid and judicious, as well as consistent in 
 his observations, and having been here several years, he was 
 qualified to speak with more confidence. He spoke highly of 
 the natural good qualities of the people in general, but espe- 
 cially of the agricultural population in the neighbourhood of 
 the city, and in the villages ; he thought them all highly sus- 
 ceptible of improvement, and stated many changes in their 
 habits and character, for the better. He said, that the British 
 officers bore testimony to their mildness and hospitality, when 
 prisoners among them. The letters which passed between, 
 them and the different cabildos, were published at the time by 
 the officers, in order to manifest their gratitude. A number of 
 the soldiers settled in the country, and others were, with diffi- 
 culty, persuaded to return. Some of the officers declared, that, 
 but for their sense of honour, they never would leave the 
 country. The natives, in general, were delighted to see 
 strangers, the very reverse of which was the case with the 
 European Spaniards, who regarded all foreigners with a kind 
 of growling jealousy, as if they had any better right to be here 
 themselves. * Nothing more strongly evinced their mildness 
 
 * Since the revolution, they are themselves regarded as strangers, and (lie 
 JeaSt favoured of an v. 
 
86 Voyage to Buenos Ay res, 
 
 of character, than the rare occurrence of violence and blood- 
 shed, in the course of the sudden changes and revolutions of 
 their government. In being released from the shackles of their 
 old system, and without any settled re-organization, it was 
 naturally to be expected, that during the sway of the passions, 
 scenes such as occurred in France would take place. The 
 general equality which prevailed, seemed to bring men closer 
 together, and to produce a stronger sympathy in each other's 
 sufferings and misfortunes. The triumph of one party over 
 another, even after the most violent struggles, was at most fol- 
 lowed by the banishment of a few individuals; that in a few 
 instances, where the proscribed were put to death, they pro- 
 duced the most lively sensations on the whole community, and 
 its displeasure was strongly expressed ; that the vices of the 
 people were the vices of education only ; that, previous to the 
 revolution, they were brought up in idleness, at least seldom 
 induced to embrace useful and industrious callings. The sons 
 of Europeans were never employed in the business of their 
 fathers, who preferred taking any kind of a lad, that happened 
 to be born in Spain; there was a want of an interest on the part 
 of the Spaniards, in the future welfare and advantage of their 
 own offspring. They left them to follow the billiard-tables and 
 gaming-houses, in preference to initiating them into employ- 
 ments which they appeared to think exclusively appertained 
 to those born in Europe. The revolution was producing a 
 sensible change throughout all society. 
 
 From these gentlemen, and several English merchants 
 settled here, we received every mark of attention. Although 
 few of them, beside the consul, said much in favour of the 
 people, they appeared all to entertain a sincere wish for their 
 success, which was not at all surprising, considering the deep 
 interest they have at stake. Most of them express doubts of 
 their capacity to establish a solid government, from their want 
 of information, and from their vicious habits ; they held out the 
 idea, that if they were placed under the guardianship of some 
 other nation, for twenty or thirty years, so as to keep down 
 their local dissentions, and prevent the recurrence of their in- 
 ternal revolutions, there would be no doubt of their ultimate 
 success. At present there was a want of stability, from their 
 having no settled institutions, or possessing men among them 
 of such weight and influence as to be able to repress factions. 
 It was owing to this cause, that the state had been so frequently 
 split up with feuds and parties. The drift of all this was not 
 difficult to be discovered; I have seen the same idea of 
 guardianship suggested in the Quarterly Review ; it means, 
 the guardianship of England. But the discovery of such a 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 87 
 
 disposition on her part would only serve to excite unfriendly 
 feelings towards her ; they discover important advantages in 
 mutual intercourse, and are very desirous of cultivating a good 
 understanding with Great Britain, but would be indignant at 
 the idea of any design to exercise a control over them. 
 
 Our acquaintance with Mr. Bonpland, the companion of 
 Humboldt, was highly gratifying, especially to Dr. Baldwin. 
 Mr. Bonpland removed to this place with his family about a 
 year ago, and is settled on aquinta, about two miles from town. 
 Such a man is a great acquisition to the country, in making 
 known its resources and advantages. Several French officers 
 were also introduced to us ; they had come here to seek their 
 fortunes, but, from their conversations, I discovered they had 
 been somewhat disappointed in their expectations, which were 
 not very moderate or rational. One of them had made up his 
 mind to return to France; " this will be a fine country," said 
 he, " quand nous serous Men sous terre, when we shall be well 
 under ground." They complain of there being a good deal of 
 jealousy on the part of the native officers, at seeing foreigners 
 among them, at which I was not at all surprised. The Irish 
 officers are better received than any others ; but in general 
 those who enter the service must calculate on meeting with 
 many mortifications ; the government is sufficiently disposed 
 to be libera], but they are not so well received in the army. It 
 is highly probable that some cause for this has been given, by 
 their indiscretion in betraying their feelings of superiority, whe- 
 ther real or false, and by their setting up pretensions they have 
 not been able to realize. They do not reflect, that, during this 
 protracted war, many valuable officers have been found among 
 the natives, and that the people of these countries have a 
 greater inclination to the profession of arms than for any other 
 pursuit. 
 
 About ten days after our arrival, the independence of Chili 
 was celebrated in the city. The illuminations, and other public 
 demonstrations, were continued during three successive days, as 
 is usual on all occasions of this kind. The flags of Chili and 
 the United Provinces were suspended from the cabildo, and 
 the independence of Chili publicly announced by bando, or 
 proclamation, in the plaza. The pyramid of the revolution 
 was elegantly ornamented with flags, and a variety of patriotic 
 inscriptions. I observed great satisfaction expressed in the 
 countenances of the people, especially those of the country, 
 very different from the stupid gaze of amazement I had re- 
 marked at Rio. In the afternoon, the youth from some of the 
 higher seminaries of learning, about seventy or eighty in 
 number, marched to the pyramid in procession, headed by the 
 
88 Voyage to Buenos Ay res, 
 
 professors, and after reading the inscriptions and making- their 
 observations, dispersed. Soon after, the boys from the different 
 schools marched with flags, in different companies, to the 
 number of at least six or eight hundred. They formed a hollow 
 square, enclosing the pyramid, and raised the national song 1 ; 
 each side of a square singing a stanza in succession, and the 
 whole joining in the chorus, at the same time waving their flags. 
 When they had sung their hymn, some of those who excelled 
 in speaking, stood forward and delivered patriotic orations, 
 After this, a dialogue was kept up for some time, which con- 
 sisted of questions put by one for the sake of the answers given 
 by another, containing some simple propositions of political and 
 civil liberty, or patriotic sentiments, together with professions 
 of veneration for their religion. The combination of such ex- 
 pressions as " los derechos del honibre" and " nenstra santa 
 religion catolica" had a strange effect to my ear, but I do not, 
 for this, pretend to condemn it; although it differs from what I 
 have been accustomed to, circumstances may render it neces- 
 sary and proper here. I am disposed to believe, that the rising 
 generation are far from being inclined to superstition and 
 bigotry; the danger is, their neglecting religion, which is so 
 essential to every well-regulated state; it may be prudent, also, 
 to associate in the minds of their youth, the cause of religion 
 with that of their country, so that both may be esteemed, by 
 this means, more sacred. Few of these boys appeared to ex- 
 ceed twelve years of age ; they were dressed, in general, like 
 those of our cities, but a proportion, sufficient to be remarked, 
 were a good deal bronzed ; the greater part, however, had good 
 complexions, and all had animated and expressive counte- 
 nances. Amongst the crowd of people collected in order to be 
 amused, or to catch the fire of patriotism from this exhibition, 
 the figures which most attracted my notice, were several of the 
 gauchos of the neighbouring pampas, who sat on their horses 
 with much gravity and composure, apparently pleased with what 
 was passing, but that pleasure very faintly expressed in their 
 countenances. There is no doubt that these exhibitions must 
 have a powerful effect on all classes of society, and, with the 
 youth, they give rise to sentiments and feelings inseparable from 
 their very existence. ] afterwards found, that it is the custom 
 for the boys to go through the same ceremony once a-week. I 
 have been informed, that much more of this enthusiasm, resembling 
 that of the French revolution, prevailed some time ago, from 
 which it has been inferred, that the interest in the cause itself 
 is on the wane; in this, however, I do not agree, but rather 
 believe that it is owing to its having settled down into some- 
 thing more deep and solid than the first effervescence of public 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 89 
 
 spirit ; there is evidently less demonstration of enthusiasm in 
 the cause of independence in our country, than during the 
 period of the revolution, but no one can suppose that it rests 
 upon a less solid foundation. 
 
 Printed copies of the declaration of independence of Chili 
 were sent to each of the commissioners, together with medals, 
 struck on the occasion, in gold and silver. I attended a theatre 
 in the evening, where a funcion, or ceremony, was got up for 
 the occasion. I shall defer the description of this amusement, 
 until I shall make some further observations on the event just 
 described. From this public and solemn expression, there 
 was no room left to doubt, that the idea of holding Chili in 
 subjection had nothing in it of reality. This I could gather 
 from a thousaud minor circumstances, while on the spot, which 
 produced a much stronger conviction in my mind of their sin- 
 cerity, than any thing I am able to state. 
 
 Our arrival at Buenos Ayres happened to be during Lent; 
 the circus and theatre were closed, and public amusements sus- 
 pended. I felt some curiosity to witness the bull-fights, the 
 favourite amusement in all Spanish countries. As soon as the 
 circus was opened, I took the earliest opportunity of attending 
 it. It is a circular amphitheatre, capable of containing 
 between four and five thousand persons. The arena is about 
 150 feet in diameter, with an enclosure of about six feet 
 high, with openings at intervals, sufficiently wide to admit 
 the body of a man ; at one end, there is a small covered pen, 
 with stalls, in which the bulls are confined, and opening into 
 the arena by a gate. On the opposite side there is a large gate, 
 at which the bulls are dragged out after being killed. I found 
 the place considerably crowded, but chiefly by the lower 
 classes of people, at least the females appeared to be such. 
 At one side of the toro, there was a seat appropriated to the 
 city authorities ; formerly, the viceroy and some of the principal 
 public functionaries, had also their places set apart, but this is 
 no longer the case, as it is considered even disreputable for 
 those persons to be seen here. The town-major, who is the 
 chief officer of the police, always attends on these occasions, 
 and presides, in order to prevent any disorder or disturbance. 
 Immediately below his seat there was a band of music, which 
 played before the commencement of the bull-fights, and during 
 the intervals between them. "When the spectators had begun 
 to assemble, a guard of soldiers, about thirty in number, was 
 marched into the arena, and, after going through a variety of 
 evolutions, were divided into small detachments, and distri- 
 buted through the different parts of the toro. The different 
 combatants who were to display their skill and courage on the 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. 6. Vol. III. N . 
 
90 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 occasion, came forward, and made their obeisance to the town- 
 major, and then retired to their places. The first two, called 
 the picadores, were on horseback, one a Chilian, of enormous 
 stature and bodily strength, the other a half Indian, of a more 
 delicate frame, and a more sprightly countenance. They had 
 both been convicted of crimes, and condemned to fight-bulls 
 for the amusement of the public; their irons were not tak^n off 
 until immediately before entering" the toro. There were five 
 or six others, called bandaleros, with different coloured flags, 
 for the purpose of provoking and teasing- the bull ; the last 
 were the mattadores, having in the left hand a flag, and in the 
 right a sword. The picadores were armed with pikes, about 
 twelve feet in length, with the point so shaped, as to wound the 
 animal without penetrating deeply; they posted themselves on 
 the left side of the place whence the bull was to be let out, 
 and at the distance of fifteen or twenty paces from each other. 
 On the signal given, the gate flew open, and a furious animal 
 rushed forth. He immediately made at the Chilian, but feeling" 
 the point of the steel in his shoulder, he suddenly wheeled 
 round and ran towards the middle of the arena, when the 
 bandoleros endeavoured to provoke him with their flags. It 
 was the turn of the mestiso to receive him next on his lance, 
 but, it was not until after the bull had chased both several 
 times round the circus, that he could venture to take such a 
 position as would justify his engaging him; it was necessary 
 to be near the enclosure, so as to have its support, otherwise, in 
 a furious assault of the bull, he might be overturned. The 
 animal attacked the half Indian with greater fury than the 
 other, but on feeling the steel, withdrew in the same manner; 
 after this was repeated several times, the bull seemed no longer 
 inclined to attack the picadores. At the tap of the drum, the 
 picadores withdrew from the contest; the bandaleros next 
 advanced with crackers, which they dexterously thrust into 
 different parts of the animal's body, who had now become 
 rather sullen, but as soon as they exploded and scorched him 
 severely, he grew furious, and ran about bellowing with rage 
 and agony: no one but a savage could witness this scene, for 
 the first time, without being shocked. The crackers being 
 consumed, the animal stood stili, his tongue lolling out, with 
 panting sides, and eyes blind with rage. The matladore now 
 came forward ; at first, the generous animal shewed reluctance 
 to take notice of him, but on being provoked, he made a plunge 
 at the flag held in his hand, while the mattadore, dexterously 
 avoiding him, thrust bis sword between the neck and shoulder, 
 thus giving him a mortal wound. The band of music struck 
 up, the gates of the toro were thrown open, five or six gauchos 
 
In 1817 and 1S18. 01 
 
 ruslied in on horseback, threw their lassoes about him, some 
 fastening- round bis horns, others abont his legs and body, and 
 in this manner, in an instant, bore him out of the circus, in the 
 midst of the shouts of the multitude. Seven other bulls were 
 let out in succession, and the same circumstances repeated 
 with very little variation. The whole was terminated with a 
 feat, performed by a wild gaucho : the bull being let out, he 
 was immediately lassoed by the gauchos on horseback, who 
 threw him, and held him fast by pulling in opposite directions; 
 he was then tied, and a saddle girt put on him by the gaucho, 
 who was bare-legged, and had nothing on but a shirt, and a 
 kind of petticoat, something like a Scotch kilt, the ordinary 
 dress of these people. The animal being properly prepared, 
 he was suffered to rise with the gaucho on his back, and ran 
 perfectly wild and furious around the circus, leaping, plunging, 
 and bellowing, to the great diversion of the spectators, while 
 the gaucho was continually goading him with an enormous pair 
 of spurs, and lashing him with his whip. When the animal 
 was sufficiently tortured in this way, the gaucho drew his knife 
 and plunged it into the spinal marrow ; the bull fell as if 
 struck by lightning, rolled upon his back with his feet in the 
 air, which were not even seen to quiver. Such is the barba- 
 rous amusement of bull-fighting, formerly the delight of the 
 representatives of the kings of Spain, and their mimic royalty; 
 in a more enlightened and a happier age, confined here to the 
 coarse and vulgar, and, it is to be hoped, that, in the progress 
 of science, liberty, and civilization, will disappear for ever. 
 
 The theatre was attended by respectable people, but I found 
 it in a low state, though I had not expected much. It is but 
 an indifferent building, yet capable of containing a consider- 
 able number of persons. The ladies were dressed with taste 
 and elegance, and some of them handsome. With respect to 
 the interior arrangements, the orchestra, the scenery, the dresses 
 of the actors, and the whole of the performance, I presume 
 they were about equal to our theatre during our revolutionary 
 war. When the curtain rose, the national hymn was sung by 
 the whole of the theatric corps, accompanied by the orchestra, 
 during which, it is the etiquette for every person to stand up; 
 the song was followed by thunders of applause. The perform- 
 ance is about equal to that of New Orleans, except that the 
 prompter takes rather too audible a part. Between the acts, 
 the audience flow into an extensive coffee-house, which com- 
 municates by a folding door. Here hundreds are seen, officers 
 and citizens, walking about promiscuously, or in groups around 
 jsniall tables, drinking chocolate or coffee, or taking other re- 
 
 ]N2 
 
92 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 freshments. The men of Buenos Ayres idle away a great deal 
 of their time at these places, of which there are six or eight in 
 the city ; they are always crowded at noon and in the evening, 
 as at New Orleans. 
 
 There is a society de buen gusto, for the purpose of improv- 
 ing the stage; it is one of the modes in a free country of in- 
 culcating patriotic sentiments. Several very good plays have 
 been translated and performed, and occasional pieces got 
 up. In honour of the victory of Chacabuco, a dramatic pro- 
 luction of some merit wa3 produced, entitled the battle of 
 Marathon, the incidents of which somewhat resemble each 
 other. The tragedy of Pizarro has been translated, and is 
 sometimes performed, and also several other pieces. 
 
 The late viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres, of which that city 
 was the metropolis, was by many considered the largest, as 
 well as the most valuable of all the Spanish dominions in South 
 America, extending in a direct line from its north to its south 
 boundary, a distance of more than 2000 miles ; and from its 
 eastern to its western, not less than 1,100. 
 
 It was composed, at the commencement -of the revolution, of 
 the nine provinces or intendencies following: Buenos Ayres, 
 Paraguay, Cordova, Salta, Potosi, La Plata, Coehabamba, La 
 Paz, and Puno. 
 
 Watered by the great river La Plata and its numerous tri- 
 butary streams, which afford an easy communication with 
 countries of an immense extent, and furnishing an easy access 
 to the treasures of South America, it has always been regarded 
 by Spain as one of her most precious acquisitions. Enjoying 
 every variety of climate to be found between different and dis- 
 tant latitudes, and blessed with a large portion of fertile soil, 
 ii is capable of producing all that is to be found in the tempe- 
 rate or torrid zones. Immense herds of cattle and horses graze 
 on its extensive plains, and constitute, at this time, their prin- 
 cipal source of wealth. The mines of Potosi are also included 
 within its boundaries. There are no woods for a very consider- 
 able distance from Buenos Ayres. No forest-trees are to be 
 seen on the widely-extended pampas, except at intervals, a so- 
 litary umboo. After passing the Saladillo, in a northerly di- 
 rection, the woods begin, and, proceeding in the upper pro- 
 vinces, the hills appear, and mountains rise in succession, in- 
 terspersed with rich vallies. On the east side of the rivers La 
 Plata and Parana, the country is said to be very fine. The 
 Entre Rios is represented as capable of being made a garden- 
 spot; and the Banda Oriental presents hills and dales, rich 
 bottoms, fine streams of water, and at a distance from the great 
 river, on the banks of the smaller streams, some excellent 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 93 
 
 woodland. Between Maldonada and Monte Video, the east- 
 ridge of the Cordilleras, terminates on the river La Plata. 
 
 Since the revolution, five more provinces have been erected 
 making 1 , in all, fourteen within the limits of the ancient viceroy- 
 alty, viz. Tucaman, taken from Salta ; Mendoza, orCuyo, taken 
 from Cordova; Corrientes, Entre Rios, comprising the country 
 between the Uraguay and the Parana, and the Banda Oriental, 
 or eastern shore of the river La Plata. The two last were 
 taken from the province of Buenos Ayres, which was thus re- 
 duced to the territory on the south side of that river. 
 
 Of the fourteen provinces into which the ancient viceroyalty 
 is now divided, five were, at my departure, principally occupied 
 by the royal forces, (which, in consquence of the victory of 
 3Iaipu, were expected soon to retreat to Lower Peru,) or par- 
 tially under their influence, viz. Potosi, La Plata, Cochabamba, 
 La Paz, and Puno ; and the nine following independent, de- 
 jfacto of Spain, were in the possession of the patriots, viz. Buenos 
 Ayres, Paraguay, Mendoza, Salta, Corrientes, Entre Rios, and 
 Banda Oriental. But Paraguay, and the city of Santa Fee, 
 act independently of Buenos Ayres. Though Paraguay is not 
 on unfriendly terms with them, and it is hoped, by some, will 
 before long join the union. Entre Rios and the Banda Oriental, 
 uuder General Artigas, in the character of chief of the 
 Orientals, are in a state of hostility with Buenos Ayres. 
 
 Monte Video, the capital of the eastern shore, was occupied 
 by a Portuguese army, and a squadron of ships-of-war from 
 Brazil, blockaded the ports of Colonia and Maldovado, and 
 prohibited the entrance of neutral vessels, unless they paid 
 them the same duties on their cargoes, that were charged on 
 the importation of the goods when landed in the country, 
 
 The territory of the United Provinces is computed to con- 
 tain 150,000 square leagues, though it probably exceeds that 
 quantity. The lands occupied in the country, remote from the 
 cities, are generally converted by their owners into estancias, 
 or large grazing farms for cattle, and chacras for growing 
 grain. The small farms, or quintas, in the neighbourhood of 
 cities, are in fine order. Those around Buenos Ayres, which 
 furnish their market with an ample supply of fruit and veget- 
 ables, are, by irrigation, in the highest state of culture. 
 
 The population, exclusive of the Indians, is now calculated 
 at about 1,300,000; but adding the civilized Indians only, who 
 are of great importance, it would, in all, probably exceed 
 2,000,000. 
 
 The whole population consists of nations of Old Spain, and 
 their descendants born in the country, or as they style them- 
 selves, South Americans ; of Indians civilized, or unreclaimed, 
 
94 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 with different "casts," or mixed blood ; of Africans and their 
 descendants, or Negroes and Mulattoes. 
 
 I could not ascertain, with satisfaction, the population of the 
 different provinces: the province of Buenos Ayres contains 
 about 120,000, whilst the population of Entre Rios, and Banda 
 Oriental, is computed at 50,000. 
 
 The city of Buenos Ayres contains a population of 00,000. 
 The inhabitants of this place appear to be an amiable and 
 interesting 1 people. They are considered brave and humane, 
 possessing" intelligence, capable of great exertions and perse- 
 verance, and manifesting- a cheerful devotion to the cause of 
 freedom and independence. 
 
 There is also a certain mediocrity and equality of fortune 
 prevailing 1 among - them, extremely favourable to a union of the 
 popular sentiment, in support of the common weal. Many 
 industrious mechanics, and enterprising- merchants, are, how- 
 ever, increasing- their estates, and adding- to the stock of capital 
 in the country. 
 
 The people of the province of Buenos Ayres, residing out 
 of the cily, are, generally speaking, poor, and rather indolent. 
 Though a hardy race, aud when excited to action, they become 
 zealous defenders of the liberties of their country. They are 
 capable of great improvement, and under the influence of a 
 good example, when a change takes place in their manner and 
 habit of living, they bid fair to become useful and industrious 
 citizens. 
 
 The inhabitants of Cordova are said to be more superstitious, 
 and more industrious, but less patriotic. This is principally at- 
 tributed to the loss of the trade with Peru, occasioned by the 
 revolutionary war. 
 
 Tucuman, I was informed, possessed an excellent popu- 
 lation. 
 
 The people of Mendoza, or Cuyo, are moral, industrious, and 
 patriotic. They have sacrificed largely at the shrine of inde- 
 pendence, supporting with zeal and confidence the cause of 
 their country; whist the citizens of Santa Fee are represented 
 as immoral and insubordinate, and manifesting, on most occa- 
 sions, an extreme jealousy of their neighbours. 
 
 The population of Entre Rios and Banda Oriental, is per- 
 haps not inferior in value to that of Buenos Ayres ; nor is it 
 deficient in military skill, particularly in carrying on a partisan 
 warfare, for which its troops are admirably adapted. Their 
 other good qualities have been, probably, somewhat impaired 
 by the system pursued in that quarter, where they have been 
 compelled to give up every thing like civil avocations, and to 
 continue without any regular kind of government, under the 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 95 
 
 absolute control of a chief, who, whatever may be his political 
 principles, or professions, in practice concentrates all power, 
 legislative, judicial, and executive, in himself. 
 
 The General Congress of the United Provinces, assembled 
 at Buenos Ayres, on the 3d of December, 1817, established, 
 by a provincial statute, a temporary form of government. 
 
 This congress is comprised of deputies from the different pro- 
 vinces. It actually consists of twenty-six members. But as a 
 representative is allowed for every fifteen thousand citizens, it 
 would be more numerous if all the provinces had sent delegates 
 in that ratio of population. 
 
 With some exceptions, and particularly of that palladium of 
 our rights, which is unknown to the civil law, the trial by jury, 
 the provisional constitution will be found, on an attentive peru- 
 sal, to contain a distinct recognition of many of the vital prin- 
 ciples of free government. A church establishment also, that 
 of the Catholic faith, is contrary to our ideas of religious free- 
 dom ; though a measure adopted from necessity, perhaps, by 
 them. 
 
 It declares that all power, legislative, judicial, and executive, 
 resides in the nation. The congress are to be chosen by electors, 
 who are to be voted for by the people in the primary assem- 
 blies. The cabildos, or municipalities, are to be elected imme- 
 diately by the citizens. It recognises the independence of the 
 judiciary, and declares the tenure of office, with respect to the 
 superior judges, to be held during good behaviour. It provides 
 for the election of a chief magistrate by congress, removeable 
 when they choose to appoint a successor, and responsible for 
 the execution of the duties of his office, which are defined and 
 limited. In the oath of office, he is sworn to preserve the in- 
 tegrity and independence of the country. 
 
 The three great departments of state, of the treasury, and of 
 Mar, are distinctly marked out, and their respective powers and 
 duties assigned. 
 
 On some subjects, it enters more into detail than is usual with 
 us, particularly in those of their army, navy, and militia. But 
 this, perhaps, in their situation, was necessary. 
 
 It provides that no citizen shall accept a title of nobility, with- 
 out forfeiting the character of citizenship. 
 
 It provides also against general warrants, and the arrest of 
 individuals, unless on probable proof of guilt. 
 
 It contains a salutary provision that a judge, having original 
 jurisdiction, before taking cognizance of a cause, shall use all 
 possible means of reconcding the parties. This constitution is 
 but temporary; the congress are engaged in the task of forming 
 a permanent one. In the mean time no alteration can be made 
 
96 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 in the preseut, unless with the consent of two-thirds of the mem- 
 bers. In this manner some alterations have been adopted. 
 
 The subject of a permanent constitution was before a com- 
 mittee of sixteen members of congress. There was a difference 
 of opinion prevailing amongst them, on the point of a confeder- 
 ated or a consolidated government. If they should adopt the 
 former, they will frame the constitution, in all probability, 
 nearly after the model of that of the United States. Should 
 they decide on the latter, it it is highly probable they will in- 
 corporate the leading features of our system into their form of 
 government. They seem to concur in the proposition, to have 
 a chief magistrate elected for a term of years, and a represen- 
 tative legislature to consist of two branches. A senate, to 
 constitute the most permanent body, and a house of represen- 
 tatives, whose term of service will be of shorter duration. 
 
 Perhaps it would be better for them to delay the completion 
 of this all-important task, after the example of the United 
 States, until a period of peace. Their present provisional 
 statute is an improvement on those which preceded it ; and we 
 may expect their proposed constitution will be still more per- 
 fect, as they advance in the knowledge of those principles on 
 which republican governments are constituted. 
 
 There is a considerable internal trade carried on in the in- 
 terchange of various articles, between the several provinces ; 
 cattle, horses, and mules, furnish a considerable source of 
 barter ; with the latter, Peru is usually supplied : the Para- 
 guay tea is a great article of trade throughout the country ; 
 the brandy, wine, raisins, and figs of Mendoza and San Juan, 
 are becoming important ; the hides of oxen, the skins of the 
 vacuna and granaco, with a number of fine furs, afford valuable 
 articles of exchange. These, with the foreign goods, are trans- 
 ported in every direction from Buenos Ayres, very readily, by 
 oxen and mules. 
 
 Their navy is small, and some of their vessels are laid up, 
 which also furnish the means of carrying their native productions 
 to their sea-ports, form a branch of trade of great magnitude, 
 considering the population of the country. 
 
 Their exports are calculated with some degree of accuracy, 
 at 10,000,000 dollars. Theseconsist principally of ox-hides, jerk 
 beef, and tallow, the present great staple of the country. A 
 variety of furs and peltry, some grain, copper, mostly brought 
 from Chili ; with gold and silver in bullion, and in coin, chiefly 
 from the mines of Potosi. 
 
 The imports are computed to be about equal to their exports. 
 British manufactures form the principal mass, and they are to 
 be had in great abundance. They consist of woollen and 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 97 
 
 cotton goods of every description ; some of them wrought to 
 imitate the manufactures of the country ; ironmongery, cutlery, 
 hardware, saddlery, hats, porter, ale, and cheese, are among the 
 remaining articles. 
 
 From the United States they receive lumber of all kinds, 
 and furniture of every description, coaches and carriages of all 
 sorts, cod-fish, mackerel, shad and herring', leather, boots 
 and shoes, powder and munitions of war, and naval-stores, 
 ships and vessels, particularly those calculated for their navy 
 or for privateers. 
 
 From Brazils they receive sugar, coffee, cotton, and rum. 
 From the north of .Europe they receive steel and iron, and from 
 France, a number of articles of its manufacture. 
 
 Their foreign commerce is principally carried on by British 
 capitalists, though there are some Americans, a few French, 
 and other foreign merchants, also settled at Buenos Ayres ; 
 they are all placed, I believe, on the same footing of equality. 
 
 The revenue of the state may be estimated at about 3,000,000 
 of dollars annually ; but their system of finance is very imper- 
 fect, and although their debt is small, their credit is low; they 
 have hitherto avoided the issuing of paper-money, and they 
 have established no bank; but they have sometimes antici- 
 pated their revenue, by giving- due bills, receivable in payment 
 for duties, or goods imported, or articles exported ; the impost 
 furnishes the principal part of the revenue. A copy of their 
 tariff, as at first established, was some time since transmitted, 
 I believe, to the department of state. In this, the duties were 
 generally specific and high. I understand they have been 
 lately reduced, as their exorbitancy had occasioned much 
 smuggling. 
 
 The mines of Potosi, which, in all probability, will very soon 
 fall into their hands again, may furnish them with a consider- 
 able supply of the precious metals. It is stated, on respectable 
 authority, that, so late as the year 1790, the amount of gold 
 and silver coined at Potosi, in that year, was calculated to have 
 been 299,846 dollars in gold, and 2,983,176 dollars in silver. 
 
 Their army is composed of regular troops, civicos, and mi- 
 litia. In one or other of these classes, they are educated to 
 the military art, and, as far as I had an opportunity, and was 
 capable of judging, they appeared to be well acquainted with 
 the elements of their profession. Their forces, according to 
 the paper furnished, are estimated at nearly 30,000 men. They 
 are composed of 1,296 artillery, 13,693 infantry, and 14,718 
 cavalry; of which, 12,143 are troops of the line, 7,041 are 
 civicos, and 10,573 are militia. These form the different 
 armies of the centre of Peru, of the Andes, of Cordova, and 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. 6. Vol. III. O 
 
98 Yoyaye to Buenos Ay res, 
 
 the auxiliary forces in the En tie Rios. This statement, how- 
 ever, only includes the militia of the province of Buenos Ayres 
 itself. Their supply of arms and munitions of war is ample. 
 
 General Artigas (who bears the character of chief of the 
 Orientals, and has assumed that of the protector of the Entre 
 Rios, and Santa Fee,) was originally in the royal service, a 
 captain in a provincial corps. In this he continued for some 
 time after the revolution had commenced at Buenos Ayres. 
 But, in the year 1811, taking offence, as it is said, at some 
 conduct of the Spanish commandant of Colonia, he abandoned 
 the royal cause, and entered into the service of the patriots. 
 So early as the year 1813, when acting against Monte 
 Video, he became dissatisfied with Saratea,the commander-in- 
 chief from Buenos Ayres. On his removal from the head of 
 the army, he quarrelled with General Rondeau, who, it was 
 supposed, would have been acceptable to him, and finally with- 
 drew, before the siege of Monte Video was finished under 
 General Alvear. For this conduct, Posadas, when he suc- 
 ceeded to the government, treated him as a deserter from their 
 service. By a proclamation, he offered a reward for his appre- 
 hension, and set a price upon his head : an act which General 
 Artigas never forgot or forgave. 
 
 During the subsequent directorship of Alvear, he induced 
 the cabildo of Buenos Ayres to issue a similar proclamation 
 against General Artigas. When Alvear was dismissed, the 
 people of Buenos Ayres endeavoured to atone for their conduct, 
 by burning-, with every mark of ignominy, the degrading pro- 
 clamation. They also addressed a conciliatory letter to the 
 general, and received from him a corresponding answer. 
 These were preliminary to a fruitless attempt at reconciliation, 
 made by the director, ad interim, Colonel Alvares, who suc- 
 ceeded Alvear. Other endeavours to reconcile him have 
 failed, notwithstanding the changes in the office of director at 
 Buenos Ayres. On one occasion, the proposition was made 
 that the Banda Oriental should remain independent of Buenos 
 Ayres, and merely send deputies to the general congress, to 
 concert measures against the common enemy. On another, 
 when the Portuguese army was approaching the frontiers of the 
 Banda Oriental, an effort was made by Pueyrredon to recon- 
 cile him, and to unite him in the common defence. Ample 
 supplies of arms and munitions of war were offered, and some 
 furnished, but this attempt also failed. 
 
 I must not omit to take a glance at the situation of Paraguay. 
 This province presents a singular spectacle, ft stands aloof 
 from the rest. The people, with the aid of the few remaining- 
 royal troops, repulsed an army sent to compel them to join the 
 
in 1817 and 1818. 99 
 
 common standard. Very soon afterwards they expelled the 
 royalists, and set up for themselves. Since that period, they 
 appear to have adopted a partial non-intercourse system. But 
 Buenos Ayres, on one occasion, succeeded in obtaining an un- 
 derstanding with them. Some suspect that they are secretly 
 inimical to the existing order of things, and wish to keep them- 
 selves within their shell in case of a change, that they may profit 
 by futureevents ; others calculate, with some confidence, on their 
 ultimate union with Buenos Ayres, with which, at present, they 
 indulge a limited, and reluctant intercourse. Paraguay is 
 under the immediate controul of a person named Francia, who 
 styles himself dictator of Paraguay. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 The Principal Occurrences at Buenos Ayres since the Com- 
 mencement of their Revolution. 
 
 The revolution at Buenos Ayres may be dated as far back 
 as the first invasion by the British under Beresford, in June, 
 1806. The country was, at that time, almost in a state of 
 abandonment on the part of Spain. She had a few wretched 
 troops at Buenos Ayres and Monte Video; and an indifferent 
 naval force, chiefly stationed at the latter of these places, 
 which, from the circumstances of being nearer the ocean, and 
 having a better harbour, was the naval depot. While Napoleon 
 was preying on the Spanish monarchy in Europe, the feeble 
 and defenceless state of the Spanish American colonies held 
 out strong temptations to the avarice of England. Sobre 
 Monte, at this time the viceroy of La Plata, seems to have 
 been totally devoid of energy and talents; and, when the Bri- 
 tish expedition, under Beresford and Sir Home Popham, ap- 
 peared, the city of Buenos Ayres fell an easy conquest. The 
 Spaniards had neither soldiers nor arms ; the inhabitants, far 
 from being accustomed to rally round the standard of their 
 country in times of danger, had not even been permitted to 
 think they had a country. From a people entirely excluded 
 from any participation in national or political affairs, indiffer- 
 ence and apathy were to be expected. An idle shew of re- 
 sistance, it is true, was made by Sobre Monte, a few arms 
 were distributed to the militia ;* but, to use the words of Mr. 
 
 * I was told by a respectable officer, tlia* they had not more than 300 
 good stand of arras in the city. 
 
 02 
 
100 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 Poinsett, " ignorant of their use, they ran about without order 
 to look at the enemy, while General Beresford, with 2000 men, 
 marched into the city and took possession of the citadel without 
 opposition. Don Juan Martin Pueyrredon was the only of- 
 ficer, at the head of a company of hussars, that harassed the 
 enemy's march." The viceroy fled panic-struck to Cordova, 
 in the interior. 
 
 But the same people, when left to themselves, soon disco- 
 vered energies which astonished the invaders. They appeared 
 to awaken as from a dream, or rather to be aroused into life, 
 from a state of lethargy or stupor. Inflamed with indignation 
 at the imbecile conduct of the ruler, whom chance, favouritism, 
 or bribery, had placed over them, and chagrined at seeing their 
 native soil in the possession of foreigners, they soon began to 
 meditate upon the means of effecting their expulsion. Liniers, 
 a captain in the navy, and a Frenchman by birth, not being- 
 included in the capitulation, was at liberty to take im- 
 mediate steps with a view to this object. He entered into a 
 secret correspondence with several members of the cabildo of 
 Buenos Ayres, the most conspicuous of whom were Alzaga, 
 an European Spaniard, and the present director, Pueyrredon. 
 He, at the same time, applied for assistance to the governor of 
 Monte Video, who could spare him only the marines and 
 seamen at that place. With these, and such volunteers as 
 could be collected at Colonia, he suddenly crossed the river, 
 and, in the vicinity of the capital, was joined by the force col- 
 lected and embodied by Pueyrredon, consisting of the neigh- 
 bouring peasants, and such of the citizens as had escaped from 
 the city. The British were attacked, and, after an obstinate 
 resistance, compelled to surrender at discretion. 
 
 Liniers was acknowledged their deliverer, and the people, 
 now abandoned to themselves, by the desertion of Sob re 
 Monte, and being thus self-rescued, conceived they had a 
 right to make choice of their ruler. A general meeting- of the 
 citizens was called, and it was resolved to invest Liniers with 
 the power and dignity of viceroy. Although no other change 
 was effected in any department of the government, this cannot 
 but be regarded as the first step towards their emancipation. 
 
 The year after the surrender of Beresford, the formidable in- 
 vasion under General Whitlock took place. He attacked the 
 city of Buenos Ayres, with an army of 12,000 men; but was 
 encountered, on this occasion, by a people accustomed to the 
 use of arms, and who felt a confidence in their ability to defend 
 themselves. His signal defeat is well known. This second 
 victory, won by the inhabitants of Buenos Ayres, would lose 
 nothing by comparison with that of New Orleans, and its effect, 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 101 
 
 upon the people themselves, must necessarily have been great. 
 But they were still so far from entertaining publicly, any ideas 
 of complete independence, that an attempt made by Beresford, 
 previous to this last affair, to induce some of the citizens to 
 form a plan for throwing off the Spanish allegiance, drew 
 upon him general indignation, and occasioned the punishment 
 of those who lent an ear to his seductions. 
 
 Liniers became the popular idol, and appears to have con- 
 ducted himself with prudence and moderation, but, at the same 
 time, with the most inflexible fidelity to the king and country 
 of Spain. For it is to be observed, that the distinction was 
 made at an early period of those difficulties, in which Spain and 
 her colonies were soon after involved, between allegiance to 
 the king, to which the latter, according to the laws of the 
 Indies, believed themselves bound, and allegiance to the 
 country of' Spain itself, which was claimed by her juntas, and 
 other provisional governments. The troubles of the Spanish 
 monarchy came on, England became its ally and defender, and 
 Napoleon alone was held up as the object of fear and hatred 
 throughout the colonies. 
 
 In this situation of the public mind, Liniers, who was ob- 
 liged to temporise, incurred the suspicion of both parties. The 
 circumstance of his being- a Frenchman by birth, gave occa- 
 sion to those who feared his popularity, or envied his success, 
 to sow distrust of him. 
 
 The arrival of General Elio at Monte Video, was followed 
 by the first symptoms of disaffection to his authority. The 
 European Spaniards, who form a much greater proportion of 
 the population there than at Buenos Ayres, uniting with the 
 officers of the army and navy, got up a junta, acknowledging 
 dependence on those of Spain. But a more serious attempt 
 was made in the capital itself, by persons of the same descrip- 
 tion, to remove Liniers from the station of viceroy ; they suc- 
 ceeded so far as to place him under the necessity of resign- 
 ing ; but this was no sooner made known, than the patricios, 
 or native civic militia, took up arms in his support, and 
 again restored him to authority, while a number of the Eu- 
 ropean Spaniards, concerned in this and the former transac- 
 tions, were banished to Patagonia. 
 
 A formal proposition followed next, on the part of the prin- 
 cess and the infant Don Pedro, to take under their guardian- 
 ship these unhappy countries, now in a state of orphanage by 
 the imprisonment of her brother Ferdinand. Whatever might 
 be the private sentiments and wishes . of Liniers, it is very 
 evident that public opinion would not have permitted him to 
 have acceded to a proposal, which would have been disap- 
 
102 Voyaye to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 proved of even by the European Spaniards ; and it is equally 
 evident that, at this time, his authority had scarcely any other 
 foundation than that of his popularity. The proposition was 
 therefore rejected with some shew of indignation. He was, 
 however, successful in preventing the formation of a junta in 
 Buenos Ayres, which, no doubt, would have been immediately 
 attended with serious consequences ; in this he completely se- 
 conded the policy of the provisional governments of Spain, 
 which was only to permit the formation of juntas in those 
 American cities where the preponderance of Europeans in- 
 sured their fidelity. 
 
 A more free intercourse with foreigners had begun to sub- 
 sist under the administration of Liniers. A vast quantity of 
 English manufactures had been smuggled into the country, 
 and, from the friendly footing of the English and Spanish na- 
 tions, the individuals of the former were received with pecu- 
 liar favour. It is natural, therefore, that the subject of trade 
 and commerce should be seized upon by those secretly plan- 
 ning the revolution, in order to give direction to the public 
 feeling. The inhabitants of the city and vicinity convened, 
 for the purpose of considering these important matters. The 
 result was an elaborate memorial addressed to the viceroy, by 
 the merchants and landholders, praying for an entire freedom 
 of commerce with all the Morld. 
 
 The universal cry Mas for the formation of a junta, into 
 whose hands the people might safely confide the government. 
 The cabildo, or municipality, taking the lead on this occasion, 
 sent an intimation to the viceroy, on the 20th of May, 1810, 
 that it had become indispensable that he should resign his 
 office, since the power whence he derived it appeared no longer 
 to exist. 
 
 On the 24th it was announced, by bando, that the following- 
 persons were elected to compose the junta, to wit ; — the 
 viceroy Cisneros, Dr. Soler, Dr. Casteli, Colonel Saavedra, and 
 Inchauraqua, to be conjointly styled their excellency. This 
 selection was no sooner made known, than general murmurs 
 and discontents broke forth. The civic officers, who, in virtue 
 of their military characters, took the lead in these popular 
 commotions, presented themselves to the cabildo, who annulled 
 their former election, and proceeded to appoint persons more 
 agreeable to their wishes. These were the chief of the patri- 
 cios, (native corps,) Colonel Saavedra, as president, and Dr. 
 Casteli, Manuel Belgrano, Manuel Alberti, curate of the 
 parish of St. Nicholas, Miguel de Ascuenega, colonel of mi- 
 litia, Domingo Matteo, a Catalonian merchant, and Juan Lar- 
 rea, also an European Spaniard from the same province. Two 
 
In ]S\7 and \H\H. 103 
 
 persons were selected as secretaries, Dr. Juan Jose Passo, and 
 Mariano Moreno. The next day, the 25th, which has ever 
 since been observed as the anniversary of their political rege- 
 neration, a manifesto announced these proceeding's of the ca- 
 bildo, and which seemed to give universal satisfaction. On 
 the members of the cabildo presenting- themselves in the gal- 
 lery of the town-house, before the assembled multitude in the 
 public square, and the act being- read, it was approved by ge- 
 neral acclamation. 
 
 The installation of the junta was followed by an attempt to 
 prevail on the inhabitants of Monte Video, to follow the ex- 
 ample. Dr. Passo, one of the junta, was sent there with this 
 view; a congress similar to that which had taken place at 
 Buenos Ayres, was called ; but the native inhabitants, although 
 actuated by the same feelings with their countrymen at Buenos 
 Ayres, were prevented from coming to the same determina- 
 tion, by the interference of the naval officers, and the influence 
 of the European Spaniards. In the meantime, a vessel arrived 
 with the news of the installation of the regency, and the false 
 intelligence, that the tide of fortune on the Peninsula had 
 turned in favour of the Spaniards, who were represented as 
 every where victorious. Passo was obliged to return without 
 success. 
 
 The next, and the most important step, was to obtain the con- 
 currence of all the different towns and provinces of the vice- 
 royalty. Buenos Ayres claimed this as the capital, from those 
 districts which had previously been dependencies ; at least, of 
 the audiencia of La Plata. Governing in the name of Ferdi- 
 nand, she professed to retain the viceroyalty entire, until the 
 sense of the people of the viceroyalty could be taken, as to the 
 modification, or administration, of the government. The towns 
 and villages of the province of Buenos Ayres, with the ex- 
 ception of Monte Video, acknowledged the provisional go- 
 vernment ; the other towns of the Banda Oriental, (Colonia, 
 Maldonado, and Conception,) with the principal part of the 
 population, did not follow the example of their capital, but 
 recognized the junta. The districts of Mendoza, St. Louis, 
 and San Juan, sent in their adhesion to Buenos Ayres, as the 
 capital of the viceroyalty. The province of Cordova, then 
 under the government of Concha, an European Spaniard, 
 who had been rewarded with this post for his conduct in the 
 defence against the British, was at first restrained from entering 
 into the confederacy by his influence, supported by the exer- 
 tions of Liniers, who had retired to this place, and those of 
 the Bishop Orillana. 
 
 At a meeting, convened for the purpose of taking the sub- 
 
104 Voyage to Buenos Ay res, 
 
 ject into consideration, Funes, the Dean of Cordova, and his- 
 torian of the country, was the only person who ventured to 
 take the side of the junta ; which he did, in an eloquent dis- 
 course, afterwards published. The wishes of the people in this 
 quarter were, by no means, in accordance with the determina- 
 tion of their chiefs, and when a military force soon after ar- 
 rived, under Ocampo, the chiefs were abandoned by the troops 
 they had collected on the spur of the occasion. The bishop, 
 Concha, and Liniers, were seized, and notwithstanding the 
 intercessions of Funes and his brother, the two latter were put 
 to death, in alleged retaliation for the murders committed in 
 Peru ; thus staining the cause of the revolution by blood. It 
 was unfortunate that one of the first victims should have been 
 a man to whom the country was so much indebted ; who, 
 whatever might have been his ultimate intentions, certainly 
 enabled the people to take the first step towards their emanci- 
 pation. 
 
 The die was now cast; there was no course left to the 
 leaders of the revolution, but to advance ; they were placed 
 between victory and death ; they had boldly asserted, that the 
 dependence of the Indies had temporarily ceased with the 
 captivity of the king ; that no separate or distinct jurisdiction, 
 or government of the monarchy, had a right to assume autho- 
 rity over another ; but that each distinct and separate govern- 
 ment had a right, in this state of things, to take care of itself. 
 
 A few months after the revolution at Buenos Ayres, Pueyr- 
 redon arrived from Rio Janeiro, and was immediately ap- 
 pointed governor of Cordova, while Belgrano marched against 
 Velasco, the Spanish governor of Paraguay, who still main- 
 tained the Spanish authority. Yedras, with the regular troops 
 and militia, worsted Belgrano in two successive engagements, 
 probably having a great superiority of force. The general, 
 however, opened a communication with some of the principal 
 inhabitants, in consequence of which, they put down the Spa- 
 nish authorities, sending Velasco a prisoner to Buenos Ayres, 
 and establishing a junta, but without acknowledging that of 
 the capital. With these steps Belgrano was satisfied, and 
 withdrew his forces. 
 
 With the exception of the town of Monte Video, the whole 
 of the viceroyalty had become, de Jacto, independent of 
 Spain, professing an intention to return to their allegiance to 
 Ferdinand, on his restoration to the throne, which few of the 
 leaders expected, and, certainly, none desired. The viceroy 
 of Lima strained every nerve to arrest the progress of this re- 
 volution ; all the reinforcements that could possibly be spared, 
 were sent to Goyneche ; who, partly through treachery, as 
 
in 1817 and 1818. 105 
 
 well as by superiority of numbers, defeated Balcarce at 
 Huaqui. 
 
 I have said nothing of the incidents of the war in Peru, and 
 with the Spaniards at Monte Video, both of which had their 
 influence on the local feuds of Buenos Ayres. The defeats in 
 Peru, and the bad success of the war in the Banda Oriental, 
 must have contributed not a little to the instability of the go- 
 vernments hitherto established, as well as fomented party-spirit. 
 The calling in of the Portuguese by Elio, the Spanish go- 
 vernor, at Monte Video, on finding himself closely pressed by 
 Rondeau and Artigas, had also its effect on the councils of 
 Buenos Ayres. The assembly, at its first meeting in April 1812, 
 elected Pueyrredon as one of the members of the triumvirate; 
 his conduct in Peru having rendered him, at this time, ex- 
 tremely popular. This body, however, did not stop here, but 
 proceeded to declare itself rightfully invested with supreme 
 authority. A struggle of course ensued, and ought to have 
 been foreseen ; the popular opinion was on the side of the ex- 
 ecutive, which proceeded at once to dissolve the assembly ; it 
 was accordingly done without resistance. During the admi- 
 nistration of Pueyrredon, the siege of Monte Video was re- 
 newed, and through the mediation of Lord Strangford, an 
 armistice was concluded, in the month of June, between the 
 Portuguese and Buenos Ayres ; in consequence of which the 
 former withdrew their army from Banda Oriental, and a reci- 
 procal guarantee was agreed upon with respect to each other's 
 territories. This is the third time we find the British inter- 
 fering in behalf of Buenos Ayres ; the first when a blockade 
 was attempted by Elio ; afterwards, by mediation between her 
 and the junta of Cadiz ; and, finally, in the present treaty ne- 
 gociated with Brazil through their interference. 
 
 The arms of the republic experienced severe reverses in 
 Peru ; Belgrano was defeated at Ayuma, while the Spaniards 
 threatened the city of Buenos Ayres from the river La Plata ; 
 the consequence of a junction of the Spanish forces in the 
 upper provinces with those at Monte Video, would have pro- 
 duced the same effect as the junction of Burgoyne and the 
 British at New York. The defection of Artigas also mani- 
 fested itself about this time. The public mind, in consequence 
 of this state of things, was greatly agitated; a more energetic 
 executive was called for; the assembly, having engrossed the 
 power of the state, were too much occupied in idle debates. 
 A proposal was brought forward to repose the executive autho- 
 rity in the hands of one person. It was warmly debated, and 
 at length carried ; the triumvirate was abolished, and on the 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. 6. Vol. III. P 
 
106 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 31st of December, Posadas was elected, under the title of 
 supreme director, and a council of seven appointed to assist 
 him. Belgrano was recalled from Peru, and Rondeau ap- 
 pointed in his stead, while Alvear was invested with the com- 
 mand of the army before Monte Video. The authority of the 
 assembly rapidly declined, as that of the executive increased. 
 Alvear, taking advantage of the popularity he had gained by 
 his success against Monte Video, sought the command of the 
 army in Peru, and, having obtained it, was on his way, when in- 
 formed that the officers and men had come to the determina- 
 tion not to receive him. On his return to Buenos Ayres, those 
 who had been instrumental in his appointment, in order to 
 manifest still more their regard for him, and their disapproba- 
 tion of the conduct of the army, succeeded in elevating him to 
 the office of supreme director, Posadas having- resigned. 
 
 This was followed by general disgust throughout the pro- 
 vinces, and all communication between the army of Peru and 
 the capital was interrupted. Cordova and several of the other 
 provinces were on the point of withdrawing from the confe- 
 deracy. The people had become sensible of their error, and 
 Alvear, finding that his short race of popularity was drawing 
 to a close, conceived the idea of maintaining his authority by 
 the aid of the regular troops. He withdrew from the city 
 nearly all the regulars, professedly with the intention of march- 
 ing against Artigas. The people took advantage of his ab- 
 sence, and rose en masse; the civic troops, and the citizens 
 capable of bearing arms, during three days abandoned all em- 
 ployments, and stationed themselves on their house-tops, in ex- 
 pectation of his marching against them. But the state of things 
 in the city was no sooner made known to the army, than 
 respect for Alvear instantly fled — Colonels Alvares and Val- 
 denegro openly declared against him, on which he was com- 
 pelled to take refuge on-board a British ship, whence he made 
 his escape to Rio Janeiro. The authority of the state was 
 again thrown into the hands of the cabiido. The assembly, 
 during the administration of Alvear, had sunk into insignifi- 
 cance, and fell to pieces of itself. On the 16th of April, 1815, 
 the cabiido issued a long manifesto, enumerating the evils of 
 the last administration, pointing out the errors and defects 
 of the former system, and speaking of past occurrences with a 
 freedom which would not be tolerated by those in power, and 
 who were unable to bear the severe probe of a free press. No 
 press ever censured more freely the misconduct of the public 
 men than that of Buenos Ayres, but it was usually after they 
 were turned out of office. The cabiido elected Rondeau su- 
 preme director, and Alvares to supply his place, pro tern. A 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 107 
 
 junta of observation was chosen to supply the place of the 
 sovereign assembly. 
 
 The new government immediately took measures to convene 
 a national congress, which would fairly represent the whole 
 body of the people ; and to do away every idea of capitalism, it 
 was appointed to meet atTucuman, 1200 miles in the interior.* 
 Great expectations were formed of this assembly, which was 
 considered by many as their last hope, for the fate of the re- 
 public seemed to approach its crisis. Its situation was truly 
 deplorable. The defeat of Rondeau at Sipe-Sipe, towards the 
 close of 1815, was as calamitous as the battle of Cannae to 
 Rome. Chili had fallen a victim to the dissentions of two 
 great families, and was in the possession of the Spauiards, who 
 were in consequence enabled to throw reinforcements into 
 Peru, and at the same time to compel Buenos Ayres to form an 
 army at the foot of the Andes, under the command of San Martin, 
 to prevent an attack from that quarter. The Spaniards, it is 
 true, had been dislodged from 3Ionte Video, but the revolt of 
 Artigas, which threatened to draw after it some of the other 
 provinces, was even more vexatious and distracting. Ferdi- 
 nand, now restored to the throne, was preparing a powerful ex- 
 pedition, as was supposed, for the purpose of crushing them at 
 a single blow, at a moment when the success of his armies in 
 Peru and Chili, and the internal dissentions, completely second- 
 ed his views. It is in times like these, that nations turn their 
 eyes upon their ablest men, and for a while lay aside their petty 
 jealousies and distrust. The resignation of Alvares had been 
 followed by the election of Balcarce, who soon resigned also. 
 The general government possessed neither power, strength, 
 nor influence. The belt of their union had been unbuckled, 
 
 " While bloody treason flourished over them." 
 
 In the language of the manifesto ofPueyrredon "anarchy 
 had lighted up an universal conflagration. The national 
 congress at last assembled, towards the close of 1815. Pueyr- 
 redon, who had been called from his retirement, was soon after 
 elected, by an unanimous vote, supreme director; certainly, 
 no equivocal testimony in his favour. He immediately visited 
 the armies of San Martin and Belgrano, and on his return to 
 Tucumau, proposed the declaration of independence, which 
 was finally passed on the 9th of July, 1816. 
 
 * Two petitions, signed by upwards of two hundred citizens of Buenos 
 Ayres, were presented to the municipality, praying that the city might be 
 stripped of the honour of being the capital, as a mode of quieting the discon- 
 tents of the provinces. 
 
 P 2 
 
108 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 J)eparture from Buenos Jlyres — Touch at San Salvador — Island 
 of Margaritta — Victory of Maipu — Its Effects in Venezuela 
 — New Grenada, §c. — Position of the military forces there. 
 
 As the time of our departure drew near, our impatience to 
 return to our native country increased. Towards the latter 
 end of April, we bid adieu to Buenos Ayres, a number of the 
 most respectable citizens attending us to the beach. On the 
 29th the Congress weighed anchor from off 31 onte Video, and 
 touched at Maldonado, to take in supplies. Here we ex- 
 perienced a dreadful pampero, from which we considered our 
 escape peculiarly fortunate. On the 4th of 31 ay, we took our 
 departure from this place with a favourable wind. We had a 
 fine run to Cape Frio, which we made the seventh day after 
 leaving* the river. 
 
 The commodore observes, " It was on the 11th of 3fay I 
 fell in with Cape Frio, and passed it within a few leagues. 
 Kept upon a wind heading north-east. At ten o'clock, p. m. 
 got bottom in twenty-five fathoms, coral rock. No sounding of 
 this kind being laid down in my chart, I felt much alarmed, 
 and more particularly so as the night proved very dark and 
 rainy, with heavy squalls, sometimes heading off north -by-east. 
 At meridian lost soundings, having passed, as I imagine, over 
 this ledge of rocks lying off St. Thome, distant at least thirty 
 miles. Cape St. Thome is laid down in 21 deg. 50 min. south 
 latitude. I came into these soundings in latitude 21 deg. 25 
 min. and carried them in a north-easterly direction to latitude 
 21 deg.' 37 min. having from twenty-nine to thirty-seven 
 fathoms, and immediately after shoaling to thirty-three fathoms, 
 there was no bottom with 120 fathoms of line. The wind then 
 drew round to an east-north-easterly direction, and blew in 
 tremendous squalls, with much rain ; and fearing, as I did, that 
 if I continued on, bordering along the coast until I came up 
 with the Abrolhos shoals, which give broken soundings at least 
 200 miles off the land, that, the wind might come back to its 
 natural point, the south-east, and embay me, I reluctantly 
 tacked to south-east, and before I could make my easting, I 
 was set to the south of Cape Frio, by a strong current, setting 
 about south-south-west or south-west. The wind continued to 
 blow from north to north-north-east, heading us up on each 
 tack for twelve days, which entirely disappointed us in our 
 prospect of a fine passage to St. Salvador. 
 
 During this unpleasant period of contrary winds, we were 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 109 
 
 driven nearly into the supposed latitude and longitude of the 
 island of Portuguese Ascension, whose existence is a subject of 
 doubt among- navigators; a singular circumstance, considering 
 how completely this sea has been explored for the last hundred 
 years. A description and drawing is given of it by Frezier ; 
 but the Russian navigator, Kreuzenstern, a few years ago, de- 
 voted some time in search of it without success. From the 
 circumstance of seeing several land birds, at the distance of 
 five or six hundred miles from any known shore, we were 
 almost induced to believe that we Mere near this fabled island, 
 as it is now supposed to be. 
 
 After a passage of twenty-five days from Rio La Plata, we 
 came in sight of San Salvador, or Bahia. " I found, in running 
 in for this place, a strong north-easterly current, setting at 
 least one and a half knots the hour, produced, no doubt, by the 
 south-south-west wind, which had blown almost a gale for two 
 or three days. My ship was brought down to close-reefed 
 topsails and storm-staysails, in standing off upon a wind, after 
 having made my run as nearly as prudence dictated, the night 
 being- dark and weather very squally. I tacked at eight 
 o'clock, p. m. and stood off under easy sail, going with a high 
 head sea, two and a half knots the hour, until four, a. m. when 
 I tacked on west, and made more sail ; and at six, a. m. saw the 
 land, bearing north-west, supposed to be the cape. I stood in 
 until it was ascertained to be so, and at eight o'clock, a. m. the 
 weather looking very bad, and blowing hard, I stood off again 
 until ten o'clock, a. m. when the weather clearing and moderat- 
 ing in some degree, I wore and stood in again, and at meridian 
 observed, in latitude 1 3 deg. and i) min. south, Cape St. Anto- 
 nio, bearing west-north-west, three-fourths west, distant four or 
 five leagues, chronometer longitude, agreeing exactly with the 
 chart, contained in the East India Pilot, but our charts differ- 
 ing from it thirty miles, in laying down this cape I am at a 
 loss which to rely on. 
 
 " I continued standing in upon a wind heading from west to 
 west-south-west, sagging fast to leeward with the current and 
 sea, until the cape bore, or rather the fortress, standing on the 
 spit of the cape, nearly north, when I perceived the colour of 
 the water alter suddenly, indicating soundings. I hove the 
 lead with thirty-five fathoms, and got no bottom. In a few 
 minutes got eighteen fathoms; next cast fifteen, next twelve, 
 and then nine, when the ship was hove in stays, and luckily 
 came round, for there is no knowing how much water a few 
 minutes more might have given us. It was now four o'clock. 
 The fortress bore north-half-east, and we were distant from it 
 about two and a half leagues, while this shoal is laid down in 
 
110 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 all ray charts, at the distance of four miles, with four fathoms. 
 This apprehension, and finding no attention paid to my .signals 
 for a pilot, I stood off until four o'clock, a. m. when I tacked, 
 and at an early hour again made the land. The land to the 
 north-east of St. Salvador cannot be mistaken. For ten leagues 
 there are no very prominent parts, although the land is consi- 
 derably elevated, and somewhat irregular and broken ; but it 
 may always be known from six to ten leagues from the cape, by 
 its white, spotted, chalky appearance, somewhat resembling 
 linen spread upon a green sward to bleach." 
 
 Not being able to procure a pilot, the commodore determined 
 to run in by his charts, which he effected without any accident. 
 On our approach to this great city, we descried a forest of 
 masts, indicating its great importance as a commercial place. 
 The entrance to the harbour is by no means as safe as that of 
 Rio, and, from its width, not so easily fortified. The harbour 
 is one of the most spacious in the world, bordered by a most 
 beautiful picturesque country, in a high state of cultivation in 
 cotton, cocoa, coffee, and sugar. The city is situated upon a 
 hill, several hundred feet in height, but a considerable part of 
 it occupies the sides of the hill, and the narrow strip of land at 
 its base. The upper, or new town, is much better built, and 
 has an air of cleanliness, unusual in Portuguese towns. The 
 king touched here, on his arrival in the country, and a monu- 
 ment has been erected in one of the public gardens, commemo- 
 rative of the event. Mr. Hill, the American consul, a gentle- 
 man of fine talents and agreeable manners, came on-board, and 
 escorted us to his house, where we were shewn every mark of 
 attention and hospitality. We called on the governor, the 
 Count dos Palmas, who succeeds the Count dos Arcos, lately 
 appointed prime-minister. 
 
 On the 5th of June, having laid in every necessary supply, 
 the commodore resolved to make all sail for the United States. 
 " About four o'clock, p. m. with the ebb-tide just making, we 
 weighed anchor, and commenced beating out of the harbour. 
 At seven o'clock it became very dark and squally, with the 
 wind right in, and the pilot, who had insisted on leaving us an 
 hour before, saying we were as far as he could take us; on find- 
 ing his canoe filling astern, he became so alarmed as to be 
 quite useless. I suffered him to depart, although not clear of 
 the western shoal, which runs off several leagues, and as long 
 as I could see the light-house on the castle of St. Antonio, I 
 kept under way beating out; but at length it became so dark 
 and squally, that I determined to come to an anchor, and did 
 so in tnirteen fathoms." The next day we succeeded in gain- 
 ing the open sea, and proceeded on our voyage. We had a 
 
In 1817 and 1818. Ill 
 
 delightful run along the coast, passing between the continent 
 and the island of Fernando de Naronka, thus shortening our 
 distance considerably. 
 
 "On Sunday, the 21st of June, at nine o'clock, p.m. my 
 reckoning was out, and the ship had been previously put under 
 her three topsails, double-reefed, steering down west from lati- 
 tude observed at meridian, 11 deg. 24 min. north, the north- 
 east end of Tobago lying (by Bowditch) in 11 deg. 29 min. I 
 continued to run down all night, the moon shining quite bright, 
 but saw no land. At day-light made all sail, and hauled up 
 west-by-soutb, believing we had been deceived by the cur- 
 rents we had allowed by lunars and our chronometer ; when 
 at nine, a. m. on Monday, the island of Grenada was discovered 
 bearing west-south-west. I then discovered, by examining 
 the 'Personal Narrative' of Humboldt, (one of the most accu- 
 rate observers of latitude and longitudes that has ever written,) 
 that the north-east end of Tobago lies in latitude 11 deg. 
 17 min. south, which, added to a strong current setting to the 
 north-west, had occasioned our passing Tobago without seeing 
 it." 
 
 On Tuesday, the 23d, we anchored in Pampatar roads ; the 
 island of Margaritta, far famed for its heroic repulse of Morillo, 
 had the appearance of a bleak and barren rock. The next day 
 I went on shore with an officer. We found the village, which 
 might at one time have contained several hundred souls, in a 
 state of ruin. I waited on the governor, a kind of Indian 
 about seven feet high. On inquiring for Gomes, the governor 
 of the island, he told me that he was at the village of Assum- 
 tion, some miles in the interior. I then made arrangements for 
 horses to ride over the next day, in order to pay him a visit. 
 Accordingly, early the next morning, the commissioners, the 
 commodore, several officers of the ship, Mr. Read, and myself, 
 went on-shore. After being detained some time, we were 
 mounted on some wretched animals, so small and poor as to be 
 just able to carry us. We passed through a poor sandy coun- 
 try, bordered by high and naked hills, but as we approached 
 Assumption, its appearance grew somewhat better. Near the 
 town, we were shown the valley where Morillo had been de- 
 feated, with the loss of 1500 men. When we consider that this 
 victory was achieved by peasants, the greater part of whom 
 were armed only with stones, it deserves to rank with those of 
 the days of William Tell. A breakfast a la Jburchette was 
 provided for us by Gomes, who received us with hospitality. 
 He is a man of stern countenance, and Herculean frame ; his 
 complexion is very fair, which I consider somewhat singular in 
 a native of these islands. There were fifteen or twenty officers, 
 
1 12 Voyage to Buenos Ay res, 
 
 whose complexions were not so fair, but who shone out well in 
 their uniforms. I was much pleased with two young- men, who 
 arrived to invite us to dine at Griego, with their father, General 
 Arismendie, who we now learned was in the island. The in- 
 vitation was accepted by Mr. Read, Lieutenants Clack and 
 Vorhees, but the commodore and the commissioners declined, 
 on account of the excessive heat. 
 
 Some distance from Assumption we crossed a rapid stream, 
 whose channel was well supplied with water, and its borders 
 shaded by trees of a prodigious size ; after this we passed a 
 number of small cabins and cultivated patches along the road- 
 side, for two or three miles, when we gradually began to 
 ascend the mountains, which are as high as the Alleghanies, 
 and their sides, until cleared for cultivation, covered with wood. 
 We saw a great number of small patches, a few acres each, 
 where the inhabitants cultivate manidioca, cotton, bananas, and 
 Indian corn. We crossed the mountain through what we 
 should call a gap, an extremely narrow defile. When at the 
 summit, we descried a beautiful valley below, about six miles 
 long- and three broad, running down to the sea, hemmed in by 
 mountains on the other sides, but which presented innumerable 
 clearings, and small patches of cultivation, without any visible 
 habitations ; these were probably constructed of reeds, and hid 
 among the trees. The valley had been laid waste by the 
 Spaniards, and all the cocoa-trees cut down. The soil is good 
 the whole distance to the village, and the road bordered by 
 huts very slightly constructed. 
 
 We found Aresmendi a small man, rather taciturn, but of an 
 aspect firm and undaunted. His entertainment was very far 
 beyond any thing I could have expected at this place ; several 
 of the officers waited on the guests, and they appeared to take 
 pleasure in addressing each other in the French style of citizen. 
 Toasts were drank, accompanied with music and discharges of 
 artillery. Our horses having been turned out, we found our- 
 selves compelled to remain here all night. A ball was got up, 
 but not in the most refined taste. Early the next morning we 
 took leave of Arismendi, and returned on-board the Congress. 
 
 The island contains a population of 20,000 souls, who are 
 chiefly peasantry, who subsist by cultivating- small spots of 
 ground. As we passed along in the cool of the morning, we 
 saw a number at work in these miniature fields. Their general 
 dress is cotton-pantaloons and shirt, of their own manufacture. 
 The island is strongly fortified; redoubts and forts are con- 
 structed on every height near which the enemy would have to 
 pass. 
 
 The news of the victory of Maipu, which we brought, pro-- 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 113 
 
 «!uced great rejoicing, and, we afterwards learned, had import- 
 ant effects on the confederacy of Venezuela, and even through 
 the viceroyalty of New Grenada. Like the shock of a tre- 
 mendous earthquake, it will be felt throughout the continent. 
 
 Before I venture to give a sketch of the events of the revolu- 
 tion in this quarter, I shall make some observations on its geo- 
 graphy and the character of the inhabitants. The captain- 
 generalship of Caracas and the viceroyalty of New Grenada 
 have been even more intimately connected in their struggle 
 against the Spanish power than La Plata and Chili. The pro- 
 gress of the contest in the one has constantly re-acted on the 
 other; neither, or both, must be independent of the kings of 
 Spain. With some shades of difference in the character of the 
 people, their feelings and opinions, in relation to the cause in 
 which they are engaged, are the same. Even in those districts 
 where the revolution at first made the slowest progress, and 
 which have been almost continually under the influence of the 
 Spaniards, revolutionary principles have been silently but 
 rapidly working their way. If the Canadians on our continent 
 had not been of adifferent race, and repelled by their antipathies 
 to the Bostonais, there is little doubt but that they would have 
 joined us in the contest with Great Britain. 
 
 The captain-generalship of Venezuela or Caracas is composed 
 of the provinces of Venezuela, Maracaibo, Varinas, Guiana, 
 and the island of Margaretta. The coast from the province of 
 Santa Martha of New Grenada, down to the mouths of the 
 Oronoko (which are as numerous as those of the Nile or Missis- 
 sippi) is in general bold and in some places mountainous. The 
 rivers which discharge themselves into the Caribbean sea along 
 this coast are generally inconsiderable, on account of a ridge of 
 mountains which branches off from the Cordillera of Santa 
 Martha, passes round the celebrated lake of Maracaibo and 
 there runs with the coast at the distance of forty or fifty miles. 
 The valley of Caracas is formed by this mountain, and the 
 river Tuy, which waters it, flows along the ridge of the coast 
 for some distance before it finds a passage to the sea. Between 
 the two ridges of mountains just mentioned, the land is elevated 
 like those of Peru, though on a smaller scale, and of a less 
 elevation, but sufficient to afford a perpetual spring within the 
 tropics. There are other elevated positions in various parts of 
 the captain-generalship, affording the same temperature, while 
 the plains of theoouth towards the Oronoko are excessively hot. 
 The rivers which flow to the interior, and which are tributary to 
 the Apure, or other western branches of the Oronoko, pass 
 over a much more extensive country than those of the coasts, 
 and are of greater magnitude. The main trunk of the great 
 
 Voyages and Travels, No. 6. Vol. III. Q 
 
114 Voyage to Buenos Ayres, 
 
 river just mentioned, on examining; the map, will be seen to 
 hold a course for several hundred miles from west to east, en- 
 closing a parallelogram with the coast, the main branches of 
 the Apure rising in the neighbourhood of the lake of Mara- 
 caibo. This track is about 500 miles long, by 200 in breadth, 
 and with the exception of the province of Guiana, which lies on 
 the south side of the Oronoko, it comprises all the provinces of 
 the captain-generalship ; but the province of Guiana is at least 
 a third greater in magnitude than all the rest put together, 
 although it may be regarded as an uninhabited and even unex- 
 plored wilderness. Venezuela has two remarkable natural 
 boundaries ; the mouths of the Oronoko on the east, and the 
 lake of Maracaibo on the west ; on this side it is also separated 
 by high mountains, extremely difficult to cross, from the vice- 
 royalty of New Grenada. 
 
 To the south Venezuela is traversed in its breadth by the 
 tributaries of the Apure and Oronoko, as has been stated ; but 
 the surface of the track of country, for more than 400 miles in 
 length, and 150 in width, is a plain almost as level as the pampas 
 of L.a Plata, and in some respect resembling them ; but in 
 general essentially different. The streams which water this 
 track of country take their rise either in the ridge which runs 
 along with the coast, or in the mountains in the vicinity of Lake 
 Maracaibo, and, during the seasons of rains, which in this cli- 
 mate are prodigious, they pass over the banks and inundate the 
 adjacent plains to a great distance. There are also numerous 
 channels of cross communication, in consequence of which, in 
 the rainy season, the surface of the country presents the appear- 
 ance of a vast inland sea, and the courses of rivers are only 
 marked by the tops of the forest-trees on their borders. Dur- 
 ing the other portion of the year the streams shrink within their 
 channels, leaving immense plains, which are soon covered with 
 luxuriant herbage, and sustain numerous herds of cattle, until 
 the approach of the dry season, when the grass is burnt up by 
 the heat of the sun, the water evaporated, the plains present the 
 appearance of naked deserts, and the cattle perish by thousands 
 for want of food and water. Such is the country which has 
 been the principal theatre of war between the Spanish general 
 Morillo, and the patriots under Bolivar, since the capture of 
 Angostura. Their campaigns have been constantly interrupted 
 by the return of the rainy season, and, during the period favour- 
 able to their military operations, the nature of the country and 
 the climate are such as render it almost impossible for European 
 constitutions to withstand the privations and fatigues to which 
 they must unavoidably be exposed. These causes both operate 
 in favour of the natives ; delay, occasioned by the interruption 
 
In 1817 and 1818. 115 
 
 in their campaigns, enables them to increase in strength, while 
 the cause of Spain grows weaker, and, from habit, the sultry 
 heat of the plains, to which they are accustomed, like Arabs, 
 can be better withstood than by their enemies. 
 
 From the nature of the track already described, extending 
 across the Apure into New Grenada on the south, opposes a 
 natural barrier to the communication with the populous districts 
 of that viceroyalty; for even when not covered with water, it 
 is a vast and almost trackless desert, interspersed with morasses 
 and marshes extremely difficult to pass. Our enterprising 
 countryman, Macauley, was one of the first to cross from Ca- 
 labozo to Santa Fee de Bogota, where he commenced his short 
 but brilliant career in the cause of South American emancipa- 
 tion.* The greater part of the country which stretches from 
 the left bank of the Oronoko, is composed of immense plains, 
 subject to inundation. The inhabitants resemble those of 
 Banda Oriental or La Plata, and the subjugation of these herds- 
 men, in their widely-expanded wastes, will be equally difficult. 
 They are possessed of prodigious bodily strength, and, like 
 those of the south, are capable of sustaining extraordinary 
 fatigue, contrary to the opinion usually entertained of the in- 
 habitants of warm climates. They will, in fact, bear almost 
 with indifference what exposes the European soldier to the 
 severest sufferings. Although their habits are in general indo- 
 lent and slothful, they can suddenly pass from this state to one 
 of the most vigourous energy ; like the furious boar of their 
 plains, so finely described by Humboldt, which basks its list- 
 less length in the sun, until excited by the sight of its prey, 
 when it instantly displays a power of motion truly terrific. 
 
 The population of Venezuela has been estimated at 800,000 
 souls, but the devastating war which has been carried on, has 
 diminished the number very much, especially in the provinces 
 of Caracas, Cumana, and Guiana : but that of Margaritta has 
 been increased by emigration from the union. The province 
 of Maracaibo has suffered less than any, although it has been 
 put under heavy requisitions by Morillo for the support of war ; 
 without the assistance he has drawn from this quarter and from 
 New Granada, it would have been impossible for him to have 
 maintained the contest. The delightful valley of Caracas has 
 
 * The recent march of Bolivar, as a military achievement, has never been 
 surpassed. He set off at the commencement of the rainy season, when his 
 antagonist, Morillo, expected that he had retired into quarters. None but the 
 troops of the country could ever have accomplished this undertaking ; his 
 men were for weeks literally to the waist in mud and water. Of the Eng- 
 lish troops which accompanied him, but a handful appear to have survived. 
 
116 Voyage to Buenos Ayr eg. 
 
 been almost laid waste, and the beautiful plantations of cocoa, 
 cotton, sugar, coffee, and indigo, formerly so celebrated, have 
 been in a great measure destroyed. 
 
 The uncivilized Indians of the neighbouring* mountains and 
 plains have, in general, regarded the contest with indifference. 
 The Indians of the plains in the rainy season pass from one 
 point of high land to another in their canoes, and often remain 
 many days in succession on the water; and the circumstance 
 of their sleeping in hammocks, suspended between branches, 
 has given rise to the story of their living in the tops of trees. 
 
 The kingdom of New Grenada is probably the most im- 
 portant Spanish feudatory in South America. It is equal in 
 extent to the United States west of the Mississippi, and capable 
 of containing a greater population. In most respects it resem- 
 bles Peru, lying chiefly between the two Cordilleras, which 
 begin near the sea-coast in San la Martha, and which form the 
 valley of the great river Magdalena, on which is situated Santa 
 Fee de Bogota. This kingdom is probably one of the most 
 diversified in its surface in the world ; but its most remarkable 
 characteristic is, its mountainous aspect. Excepting by the 
 channel of the Magdalena, or by the way of Peru, there is no 
 way in which an army can be sent by Spain to subdue its in- 
 habitants in their inaccessible mountains. But for a series of 
 causes of a most peculiar nature, Morillo, even with the assist- 
 ance of the troops from Peru, and all the old Spaniards, then 
 in the country, never could have put down the revolution. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
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