from the Library of Frank Simpson / ENGLAND DISPLAYED. BEING A New, Complete, and Accurate Survey and Defcription OF THE KINGDOM of ENGLAND, AND PRINCIPALITY of WALES. C O N T A I. A full and ample Account of whatever is remark- able in every COUNTY, City, Town, Village, Hamlet, and Parifh in England and Wales. II. Defcription of the various Manufactures and other ufeful Arts eitablifhed in different Parts of this Kingdom. III. Accounts of the Nature and Produce of the vaii- i Kinds of Land, with a complete Hiftory of the mo- dern Improvements in Agriculture, Gardening, £sV. IV. An hiftorical Account of all the Forts, Caftles, Roman Military Ways, Docks, Harbours, Creeks, Bays, &c. with the Particulars of their ancient and prefent State. I N I N G, V. A full Defcription of all the natural and artificial Curiofities of t Us Kingdom; fuch as Rocks, Mines, Caverns, Lakes, Grottos, Foffils, Minerals, Abbeys, Cathedrals, Churches, Palaces, and the Seats of the Nobility and Gentry. VI. A faithful Narrative of all Improvements mad.; in the Roads, Rivers, and Canals of this Kingdom, for the Convenience of Travc'ling, and the Benefit of In- land Navigation. The whole forming fuch an accurate and comprehenfive Account of this Country, as has never yet been published, and will be equally entertaining and inflructive. By a SOCIETY of GENTLEMEN: Each of whom has undertaken that Part for which his Study and Inclination has more immediately qualified him. The Particulars reflecting England, revifed, corrected, and improved, By P. R U S S E L L, "Lfq^ And thofe relating to W a hfKs, By Mr. OWEN PRICE. Hijloria vero tejiis tempomm, lux veritatis, vita memoria^ magiftra vita. Cic. de Orat. Lib. ii. § 9. VOL. I. 25? t^e king's aut^ont?. LONDON. Printed for the AUTHORS, by A d l a r d and E r o w n e, Fleet-Street : And fold by S. Bladon, No. 28, T. Evans, No. 54, and J. Coote, No. 16, in Pater-nofter Row j W. Domvhle, and F. Blythe, at the Royal Exchange. MDCCLXIX, Digit by the Internet Archive in 2014 https://archive.org/details/englanddisplayedOOsoci ADVERTISEMENT. THERE is perhaps no country in the world that better deferves to be known, than the kingdom of England; it has long been famous for mines, medicinal waters, antiquities, manufactures, commerce and fertility. The works of nature and art are here difplayed in the utmoft profufion, while the traces of the bufy hand of improvement, guided by genius, and fupported by induftry, are vi- fible in every corner of this flourifhing Ifland. And yet all the defcriptions hitherto publifhed are very defective, and the modern improvements almofc totally difregarded. Indeed the far greater part of thefe improvements have been made fince the principal books of this kind were publifhed ; and fucceeding writers have been little better than copiers of the im- perfect accounts and errors of their predecefTors. But it is not our intention to point out here the faults of former writers : they are already fuffkiently confpicuous, and will ferve as beacons for us to avoid the rocks on which they have mifcarried. The Authors of this Work, animated by the moft laudable curiofity, and impreffed v/ith the warmeft attachment to their native country, have made the knowledge of its internal advantages their peculiar ftudy, and fome of them have travelled to its remoteft borders, to gratify the paffion fo laudably infpired. Having completed their agreeable tour, they have carefully digefted their materials, and now chearfully fubmit them to the public eye, fearing no ceniure, as they have fincerely laboured to deferve none, and courting no applaufe but what their labours may be thought to merit. There is indeed one particular, in which all the accounts of this ifland hitherto publifhed are deficienf from neceflity, a want of perfpective views and other plates abfolutely neceftary to elucidate all perform- ances of this kind, if the authors are defirous of conveying adequate ideas to their readers . 4 This defect we have been very careful to fupply, by giving more than thrice the number of copper-plates, exclufive of maps, to be found in any work of this kind yet extant. And on thofe copper-plates, which are moft elegantly engraved, we have taken care to reprefent the moft curious objects, whether formed by the hand of nature or art. Entertainment and inftruction are the principal ends of this performance; we will therefore endeavour to give the reader all the fatisfaction in our power, with regard to every object that merits attention. We will lead him from one place to another, and point out the various particulars for which each is remarkable: difplay their government, their cufloms, and their privileges : we will defcribe the various ftructures, whether erected by ancient or modern artifts ; together with the ftatues, paintings, and curiofities, natural or artificial, with which many of them are decorated; we will trace the courfes of the rivers which water this ifland, and defcribe the different canals, and other works of art intended to increale the benefit of inland navigation. The trade and manufactures of each county will be fully confidered ; and the various improvements lately made in many of the mechanical arts particularly enumerated. Agriculture, and every other branch of hufbandry, certainly demand a particular attention. The authors have therefore traced the various improvements by which the value of lands have been of late fo confiderably augmented, in order to difTeminate this ufeful knowledge over all parts of the kingdom, that every county may equally reap the advantages of thefe important difcoveries, many of which have been long confined to the fmall diltricts where they were originally made. If the natural hiflory of foreign countries be thought worthy our attention, certainly that of our own deferves to be particularly regarded by the inhabitants of thefe kingdoms. It is indeed chiefly from the natural hiftory that we collect the value and importance of any kingdom ; 'becaufe from thence we learn its ADVERTISEMENT. its produce of every kind. The greateft care therefore will be taken to difplay the riches we derive from the animal, vegetable, and mineral kingdoms; to defcribe their refpective properties, together with the methods of ufing, improving, and manufacturing them' for the various purpofes of life. Nor will the remains of antiquity be forgotten. The authors will point out the ruins of ancient ftruc- tures, and often give a concife hiftory of their building and deftruction. An affecting fcene ! but preg- nant with lefibns of inftruction. It fhould teach us to value the civil and religious liberties we now enjoy in this happy ifland ; and ftimulste us to tranlmit thefe invaluable bleflings undiminished to pofterity. For it fhould be remembered, that it was the iron hand of tyranny, and the infatiable fvvord of religious bigotry, that reduced many of thofe famous ftructures to heaps of rubbifh, and laid the fplendor of their inhabi- tants in the duft. In confidering fuch a variety of fubjects, fome errors and miftakes will inevitably be committed : the authors will do all in their power to avoid them ; and will think themfelves highly obliged to every inge- nious gentleman, who will favour them with any accounts of places, either wholly omitted, or imper- fectly defcribed by preceding writers •, or of any improvement lately made in agriculture, manufactures, and other curious and ufeful arts. For as it is intended to render this work as complete as pofiible ; and in order to which, neither pains nor expence will be fpared ; fo it is hoped that thofe gentlemen, who would wifh to fee the natural and artificial riches of their native country properly difplaycd, will lend their generous afTifiance to complete fo ufeiul a defign. N. B. The Preface, Introduction, &c. will be delivered at the Conclulion of the Work. GEORGE R. GEORGE the Third, by the Grace of God, King of Great Britain, France, and Ireland, "Defender of the Faith, &c. To all to whom thefe Prefents pall come, Greeting. Whereas P. RufTell, E/q-, Owen Price, Gentleman, and J. Coote, Bcokfeller, have; by' their Petition, humbly reprefented unto us, That P. RufTell, and Owen Price, have been at great Labour and Expence, and have engaged feveral other Gentlemen not only to make an aclual Survey, but alfo to collet! and digeft the various Materials, already extant, toperfecl the following Work, entitled, "ENGLAND DISPLAYED, or a Complete Survey and De- fcription of Our Kingdom of England and Principality of Wales." That they have alfo engaged feveral inge- nious Artifls to take perfpetlive Views, &c. on the Spot, in order to decorate and ilhj,flratc the faid Work, &c. W f being willing to give all due Encouragement to this Undertaking, are gracioufiy plea fed to condefcend to the Petitioners Requeft. And we do therefore, by thefe Prefents, grant unto them the faid P. RufTell, Owen Price, and J. Coote, their Executors, Adminijlrators, and Affigns, Our Licence for the fole printing and publifhing of the faid Work, for the Term of Fourteen Tears, to be computed from the Date hereof, ftriclly forbidding all Our Subjecls, within Our Kingdoms or Dominions to reprint or abridge the fame, either in the like or any Size or Manner what fo ever, or to import, buy, vend, utter, or diftribute, any Copies thereof, reprinted, beyond the Seas, during the aforefaid Term of Fourteen Tears, without the Confent or Ap- probation of the faid P. RufTell, Owen Price, and]. Coote, their Executors, Adminiftrators, and Afftgns, under their Hands and Seals firfl had and obtained, as they will anfwer the contrary at their Peril. Given at our Court at St. James\f, the 28th Day of February, 1769, in the Ninth Tear of our Reign, By his Majejly 's Command, ROCHFORD t v } INTRODUCTO ENGLAND is an ifland in the weftern ocean, fituated between the'parallels of fifty and fifty-fix degrees north latitude, and between two degrees eaft, and fix degrees weft-longitude. It is bounded on the north by that part of the ifland called Scotland; on the eaft by the German ocean ; on the weft by St. George's channel, and on the fouth by the Englifh channel, which fepa- rates it from France. The etymology of the word England, has ^caufed a great variety of conjectures among the antiquaries ; fome are of opinion that it is de- rived from a Celtic v/ord, which fignifies a level country. Others fuppofe it to have been origi- nally written Angleland, the land of the Angles, a people who came into England with the Saxons, and are thought to have given this name to the country, when after invading and reducing it, they united the kingdoms into which it was at firft divided, into one" monarchy. The principality of Wales, confidered as dif- tinit from England, is formed from a Saxon word, fignifying, " A land of ftrangers :" A name the Saxons thought proper to beftow on that part of the country to which the native inhabitants were driven by their violence, and where they fupported themfelves againft the utmoft efforts of their power. The fituation of England, by the fea wafhing three of its fides, renders it obnoxious to a great uncertainty of weather; and hence the inhabi- tants of the low lands on the fea-coaft are often vifited by agues and fevers. But, on the other hand, it prevents the extremes of heat and cold, to which other places lying in the fame degrees of latitude and longitude are fubjecr. ; and hence it becomes extremely friendly to the health and longevity of the inhabitants in general efpecially to thofe who refide on a dry foil. Nor is this all the advantages it enjoys from its fituation : it is to this particular we ought to afcribe that perpe- tual verdure for which England is at once admired and envied by all the world, and which is oc- cafioned by the frequent refrefhing mowers, and the warm vapours from the fea. About forty-five years before the Chriftian sera, Britain was invaded by the Romans, under Julius Cjefar, and at length became a province to the Roman empire. The Romans maintained their conqueft by a military force, with which they gradually incorporated the flower of the Britifh youth. This force was divided into dif- ferent parties, which were placed at convenient Itations all over the province ; and the Roman general, for the time being, was fupreme gover- nor of the country, Vol. I. R Y PREFACE; Such was the {rate of Britain, till about the year 426, when the interruption of the northern Barbarians into the Roman empire, made it ne- ceflTary to recall the troops that were in Britain ; upon which the emperor Honorius renounced his fovereignty of the ifland, and releafed the Britons from their allegiance. When the Romans abandoned Britain, with the legions, in which all the natives whom they trufted with military knowledge were incorporated, the country being left in a feeble and defencelefs ftate, was invaded by the Scots. The Scots were fo rapacious and cruel, that the South Britons invited over the Saxons to deliver them from in- tolerable oppreflion, and drive back the invaders to their own territory, propofing to give them as a reward, the little ifle of Thanet, which is di- vided by a fmall canal from the coaft of Kent. The Saxons came over witfi great .nuffcbjSFV^ Angles, a people who are fupj_ rived their name from a place ft in Denmark •, and having driver they fubdued the country they 1 themfelves-, and drove the nati r ^c of South Britain now called Wales. The Saxon generals became petty fovereigns of different diftritts, and were perpetually commit- ting hoftilities againft each other, till abou; the year 823, when a king of the Weft Saxons, whofe name was Egbert, became the fovereigrt of all England. About the year ion;, the Danes, who had often' invaded the ifland, and long maintained their ground in a confiderable part of it, became lords of all England, under Canutus, their chief, who was crowned king of England : but in the fpace of twenty years, the fovereignty was recovered by Edward, furnamed the Confeffor, a prince of the Saxon line. About the year 1066, England was again in- vaded and fubdued by William, duke of Nor- mandy, called the Conqueror, in whofe fuccef- fors, though not in a linial defcent, the crown has continued ever fince. Britain fome time before the Roman myalion,' while it was yet under the dominion of its native inhabitants, was divided into feventeen principali- ties, each of which was governed by a feparate and indsjv^sdant jchief. _ The 5 of the inhabitants of thefe prin- cipalis ecorded by the Romans, were 1. Cantiu 2. Rcgni. 3. Durotriges. 4. Dunmo- nii. 5. Eelgce, 6. Atrebatii. 7. Dobuni. 8. Cat- tieuchlani. 9. Trinpbantes. 10. Iceni. 11. Cori- tani. 12. Cornavii. 13. Brigantes. 14. Ottadini. 1 5. Silures. 1 6. Ordovices. 1 7. Dimetse* A s oon P R E F A C E. Soon after Britain was fubdued by the Romans, they divided it into five parts : the firfl:, which they called Britannia Prima, contained all the fouthern tracl:, bounded on one tide by the Britifh ocean, and on the other by the Thames and the Severn Sea. The fecond, called Britannia Secunda, was the fame with that which is now called Wales ; the third, Flavia Crelarienfis, reached from the Thames to theHumber; the fourth, Maxima Caefarienfis, from the river Humber to Severius's Wall, or the river Tine ; and the fifth, Valen- tia, from the Tine to the wall near Edinburgh, called by the Scots, Gramefdike. When the ifland fell into the hands of the Saxons, it was divided a third time : part of the territory, which the Romans divided into five parts, the Saxons divided into feven, each of which was called a kingdom, and diftinguifhed by the names of Kent, Southfex, Eaft-Angle, Weftiex, Northumberland, Eaftfex, and Mercia. The Roman province, which was not included in this divilion, was Britannia Secunda, a moun- tainous territory, in which the ancient Britons defended themlelves againft all the efforts of their enemies. This Heptarchy was fubdivided into feveral portions, each containing a certain number of hides, a hide being fuppofed to be as much ground as one plough could till in one year, and each of thefe diftricls was under the government of an earlderman, or earl. About the year 896, Alfred, fucceflbr to Eg- bert, as fovereign of the whole Heptarchy, ren- dered the commenfuration of thefe diftricts more exact, and divided England into thirty-two coun- ties, or fhires, the prefent names of which, and their relation, both to the Britiih. principalities and the Saxon Heptarchy, will appear by the fol- lowing table : kingdoms of the Saxon Heptarchy. Counties into which England was divided by Alfred. The kingdom of Kent. 1. Kent The kingdom of the South Saxons. ■< ' c b d3- Surr y dom of the Weft Saxons. The kingdom of Northumberland, which alfo included, befides Durham and Lancafhire, Cumberland, Weft- moreland, Northumberland and Scot- land, to the Frith of Edinburgh. The kingdom of the Eaft Saxons, which alfo included part of Hmford- fliirc. The kingdom of the Eaft Angles. Bei kfhiie Hampfhire 6. Wilimire. 7. Somerfetfhire 8. Dorfetfhire Devonflrire 10. Yorkfhire Hertfordfhire EiTex — Middlefex -The kingdom of Mercia, which included alfo the other part of Hert--> fordfhire. 19. 20. zii 22. 2 3- 24. 25- 26. 27. Norfolk Suffolk Cambridge with Ely — Huntingdonfhire Derbvfhire Nottinghamfliire — Leicefterfhire — Lincolnfhire Northaniptonfhire, including Rutlandfhire — Warwickfhire — • Bedfordfhire — — Buckinghamfhire Gloucefterfhire — Oxfordfhire 28. Here ford fli ire 29. Worccfierfhire 30. Chefhirc - 'ft: Shropftiire — 1 -32'.- ' Staffrf tfftn're • Principalities of the ancient tons. Bri- % The Britifh principality inhabited by 2. the Cantii. ^■Inhabited by the Regni. The Atrebatii. The Belgae: The Durotriges: 5" Including the diftricrt afterwards called i Cornwall, the Dunmonii. f Including Durham and Lancafhire, •j the Bregantes, who alfo inhabtied L Weftmoreland and Cumberland. •The Trinobantes. •The Iceni. ■ The Coritani. ^The Cattieuchlani: ^The Dobani. The Silures who alfo inhabited Radnorfhire, Brecknockfhire, Mon- ] mouihfJhire, and Glamorganfhire, in .Wales. 1 The Cornavii. The three principalities, not included in this divifion, were thole of the Otadini, the Or- dovices, and the Dimetae : the Ottadini inhabi- ted Northumberland, witn four counties in Scot- land.. The Ordovices, Montgomeryfhire, Me- rionethfliire, Caernarvonfhire, Flintfhire, and Denbighfhire ; and the Dimetae, Caermarthen- fhire, Pembrokeihire, and Cardiganfhin*. Thefe thirty-two counties were increafed to forty, by the addition of thofe afterwards dif- 2 tinguifhed R E E. SSSr tinguifhed by the names of Durham and Lan- cafhire, which are fuppofed to have been then included in Yorkfhire •, Cornwall included in Devoniliire, and Rutlandfhire in Northampton- Hi ire i Monmouthfhire, which was deeuieciipart of Wales ; and Northumberland, Weftmoreland, and Cumberland, which are fuppofed to have been fubjecl to the Scots. Thefe forty, with addition of twelve, into which Wales was afterwards divided, made he prejfcnt numbt fifty-two. . Since the Norman conqueft, England has bee* divided into counties, a certain number of which, excepting Midcjlefex and Chefhire, are compre- hended in fix circuits, or annual progrelTes of the judges for adminiftering juftice to the fub- jects who are at a diftance from the capital. Thefe circuits are : Circuits. 7/ l. Home Circuit 2. Norfolk Circuit 3. Oxford Cirouit 4. Midland Circuit 5. Weftern Circuit Counties. Chief Towns, t nc>unoii .12 9by.1l Effex" Hertford i Kent Surry Suflex ."Bucks Bedford 81 31. • _ I 5 Chelmsford, Colchefter, and Har- £ wich. 5 Hertford, St. Alban's, Royfton, Ware.; I Hitching and Baldock. f Maidfton?, Canterbury, Chatham, < Rochefter, Greenwich,. Woolwich, I Dover, EKmI, and Deptford. £ Southwark, Kingfton, Guildford, C Croydon, Epfom, and Richmond. S Chichefter, Lewes, Rye, Eaft-Grim- £ ftead, and Haftings. Aylefbury, Buckingham, High Wickham, and Marlow. 1 Huntingdon Cambwd^s. Suffok — t Norfolk — fOxon Berks — \'iorios:not ! Gloucefter „ Worcefter Monmouth Hereford Salop (_ Stafford ~ -Warwick — Leicefter — Derby -{ Nottingham Lincoln — I ii j j Is. iS5C- Rutland " - Northampton ^fHants Wilts Dorfet Somerfet Devon ^Cornwal 5 Bedford, Ampthill, Woburn, Dun- t ftable, Luton, and Bigglefwade. c Huntingdon, St. Ives, and Kimbci- I * ton. r Cambridge, Ely, Newmarket, and £ Royfton. r Bury, Tpfwich, Sudbury^ Leoftaff; , 1 j , . .. and part of Nev/market. r Norwich,' Thetford, Lynn, and / YarmouU f Oxford, Banbury, <-ton, Henly, Burf C Dorchefter, and Wfl {Abingdon, "WflHi Wallingford, Newbury, Hungerford, and Maidenhead. S Gloucefter, Tewkfbury, Cirencefter, 1 and part of Briftol. c Worcefter, Evefham, and Droit- 2 wich. 1 Monmouth and Chepftow. Hereford and Lemfter. 5 Shrewsbury, L'jdlow, Bridgnorth, £ and Wen'cck. j Stafford, Litchfield, and Newcaftle- 1 under-line. S Warwick, Coventry, Birmingham., C I and Stratford upon Avon. C Leicefter, Melton-Mowbray, and I \ AfJhby de.la Zouch. ■ Derby and Chefterfield. C Nottingham, Southwell, and New- X. . . , ark. c Lincoln, Stamford, Bofton, andGran- £ tham. Oakham and Uppingham. C Northampton, Peterborough, and Da- £ ventry. r Winchefter, Southampton, Portf- \ rrtoTItti, Andover, Bafingftoke, Chrift- ) church, and Newport in the Ifle of I Wight. S* Salifbufry, Devizes, Marlborough j Malmfbury, Wiltoq, and Chippen- ham. {Dorchefter, Lyme, Sherborn, bury, Pool, Blandford, and Bi cBath, Wells, Briftol in part, \ ton, Bridgwater, and Ilcheft r Exeter, Plymouth, Barnftaple, I id- J deford, Tivertonj Dartmouth, Ta- £ viftock, Topfham, and Oakhampton. r Launcefton, Falmouth, Truro, 1 Saltafti, Bodmyn, St. Ives, Pad- L flow, and Tregony. Circuits: V) R E Circuit!. Counties. Chief towns. 6. Northern Circuit York Durham «- Northumberland Lancafter Weftmoreland .Cumberland York, Leeds, Wakefield, Halifax, fRippon, Pontefraft, Hull, Richmond., \ Scarborough, Boroughbridge, Mai-. "Ston, Sheffield, Doncafter, Whitby, /Beverly, Northallerton, and Burling- * ton, or Bridlington. *• Durham, Stockton, Sunderland, 3 Stanhope, Barnard-Cattle, and Awk- | land. {Newcaftle, Berwick, Tinmouth, Shields, and Hexham. f Lancafter, Manchefter, Prcfton, Li- verpoole, and Wiggan.- Appleby, Kendal, and Lonfdale. {Carlifle, Penrith, Cockermouth, and Whitehaven. Middlefex is not comprehended; and Chelhire is left out of thefe circuits, becaufe, being a county palatine, it enjoys municipal laws and privileges. The fame may be faid of Wales, which is divided into four circuits. Counties. Chief towns* Counties exclufive of the Circuits North-eaft Circuit r Middlefex } (.Chefter C London, firft meridian, north la- \titude 51. 30. Weftminfter, Ux« ^ bridge, Brentford, Barnet, Highgate, / Hampftead, Kenfington,- Hackney, *-and Hampton-Court, f Chefter, Nantwich, Macclesfield, and; \ Malpas. CIRCUITS op WALES. North-eaft Circuit North-weft Circuit South-eaft Circuit South-weft Circuit {Flint Denbigh Montgomery f Anglefey S Carnarvon £ Merioneth f Radnor .•« < Brecon C Glamorgan f Pembroke | Cardigan l,Caermarthen I Flint St. Afaph, and HolywelL Denbigh, Wrexham, and Ruthyn; Montgomery and Llenvylin. Beaumaris, Llanrickmead, and Holy^ head. Bangor, Conway and Pullily. Delgelhen, Bala and Harley. Radnor and Preftean, Brecknock. LlandafF and Cardiff". St. David's, Haverfotdweft, Pem- broke, Denbigh, and Milford-haven* Cardigan, and Aberiftwith. Caermarthen, and Kidwelly. In N G AND. — ■ " i ...» ■ 80 Knights. — — - - 50 Citizens. ■ — — — 334 BurgelTes. 5 Boroughs, viz. Abingdon, Banbury, Bewdley, High'ham Ferrars, and 7 Bureeffes Monmouth, one each 2 Univerfities 40 Counties, which fend up to parliament 25 Cities, Ely none, London four j 67 Boroughs, two each Cinque port? ; Haftings, Dover, Sandwich, Romney, Hythe, and their 7 three dependants, Rye, Winchefter and Seaford, two each J w A E S. 12 Counties — — — — ■ ■ » 12 Boroughs, Pembroke two, Merioneth non?, one each — — o A N D, Shires Bsroughi 4 Reprefenfatives. 16 Barons, 12 Knights. 12 Burgefles, 30 Knights. 15 Burgeffes. Total 558. « % ****** *" "•; &3 ^ A. ****** &> ■tews* f ****** ig, 7 4" ****** 4" 0 ssssasa s&ss BBS 3 @® is a a hi a EiHl 0S is] Sal *** aaaa ^ ****** ^ ^:>:"— v --.-35 ^fe *W | 0 0 * I p^ col S'« isjaiaJaJiHJ ^ i°j a) a) ai ai ai ai -"j,v"~ aaa aa Ai. Sr'r-''T««. BBBBBlsteaaasaaasaaaBB 0 fy&ty<%-%>&&> ^ < % R #^°^ e England O R N W A ^s^s^^^^s^^; H E county of Cornwall forms the ^ > :::>:::::: Ife : ::: a^ weftern extremity of England, being bounded on the fouth, the weft and the north, by the fea ; and by the river Tamar, which feparates it from Devonfhire on the weft. It is about feventy-eight miles in length from eaft *'>:fe>Vfr) to weft. Its greateft breadth, viz. from the northern point of Morwinftow to Ramhead, is forty three miles and a quarter. But from hence the land continually grows narrower towards the weft, fo that near the weftern extremity, it is only five miles broad from Mount's bav on the fouth, to St. Ives' bay on the north. It is divided into nine hundreds, in which are twenty-one parliamentary boroughs, twenty- feven market towns, eighty-nine vicarages, one hundred and fixty-one parifh churches, exclufive of chapels of eafe, and between twelve and thirteen hundred villages. Ac- cording to the molt accurate computation, it is one hundred and fifty miles in circumference, and contains nine hundred and fixty thoufand acres. But according to a furvey made in the reig;n of Edward I. ir contained at that time one million five hundred thoufand acres ; a fufficirnt proof that large tracts of this county have been fwallowed up by the ocean. Perhaps the iflands of Scilly were once joined to the weftern extremity of Cornwall, though fince feparated from it by the fea. R I R S. The principal rivers in this county are the Tamar and the Camel. The Tamar rifes, in the northern part of the county, about three miles from the fea, iffuing from the lummit of a moor. From whence the ground, declining to the north, part of the water flows in that direction, and forms the river Turridge, which is navigable a little above the town of Bideford ; while the other part of the water defcending to the fouth, forms the beginning of the Tamar. At the diftance of ten miles from its fource, it becomes a confiderable river, and gives name to the fmall parifh and village of North Tamerton, where a ftone bridge is built over its ftream. It receives, in its courfe, feveral fmall ftreams, particularly the Aterey, fo that at Polftun bridge it is confi- derable, both on account of its width, and the tapiditv of its Vol. I. No. I. current. As it continues its courfe, the river is increafed by additional ftreams. At Stoke-lymfland, not far fouth of Grey- ftone, it paiTes under a ftrong ftone bridge calledHorfe-bridge. The laft bridge on this river is in the parifh of Calftok, to which the tide nearly reached in the time of Henry VIII. though it was navigable no further than Morleham, about two miles below Calftok bridge, and fmall barks ftill come up to Morleham. Five miles lower the Tamar receives the Tavy on the eaft, and becomes a fpacious harbour ; and paffing within half a mile of the ancient borough of Sal- tafh, is joined by the Lynher creek and river. Then paffing ftraight forward, forms the noble harbour of Ha- moze ; and after a courfe of forty miles from its fource, falls into the fea at Mount Edgcumbe. The Camel rifes about two miles north of the borough of Camelford, where its banks are famous for two confi- derable battles. In the firft the famous king Arthur re- ceived his mortal wound, from the hand of his nephew. The other was a bloody battle fought between the Cornifh and the Weft Saxons of Devonfhire, in the year 824, in which many thoufands fell on each fide, and the victory at laft remained uncertain. After running about twelve miles, the Camel becomes navigable for barges. At Eglofhel it receives a plentiful addition to its ftream, from the Laine. A mile further down, this river flows under the largeft bridge in Cornwall, called Wade-hridge. About the year 1460, there was a ferry here when the tide was in, and a very dangerous ford when the tide was retired. To remove this inconvenience, Mr. Lovebon, at that time vicar of Eglofhel, undertook to erect this bridge ; a very ufeful but tedious work ; for befides the expence fo difproportioned to his circumftances, filch difficulties occurred as might have baffled the fkill of more able mechanics. The ground for the foundation of fome of the piers proved fo fwampy, that after repeated efforts, they were at laft obliged to build on woolpacks. But by his own perfeverance, and the liberal contributions of others, he lived to finifh the work he had undertaken. It confifts of feventeen large and uniform arches, extend- ing quite acrofs the valley. Small barks from forty to lixty tons burden, come up to this bridge, and fupply the adja- cent country with coals, lime, timber, grocery, &c. About three miles below this bridge, theCamel reaches the an cient town of Padftow, where there is a pier, and a con- B . fiderable 2 CORNWALL. fiderable trade carried on with Ireland, Wales, and Briftol. About a mile below the town of Padftow, the fea has thrown a bar of fand acrofs the haven, by which fhips of more than two hundred tons are prevented from coming in at all ; and renders it even dangerous for fmaller veffels, except on fpr'mg tides; and when the weather is fair. But though the Tamar and the Camel are the largeft, they are not the only rivers in Cornwall ; for befldes feve- ral creeks that run up a confiderable diftance from the fea, there are ten pretty large riveis, viz. the Lynher, the Tide, or Tidi, the Seaton, the Loo, the Duloo, the Fawey, the Fal, the He], the Lo, and the Keyl. The Lynher rifes among the hills, about eight miles weft of Launcefton ; and after a courfe of twenty- four miles, falls into the Tamar, as we have already mentioned in de- ferring that river. The ftream-of the Lynher is very fmall during the fummer months ; but during the v/inter, re- markable for its inundations and rapidity ; frequently over- flowing its banks, fweeping away, with its impetuous cur- rent, ricks, barns, houfes, and other objects that oppole its paflage. The Tide, or Tidi, rifes on the fouth fide of Caradon Hill, near Lefkard, and becomes navigable at a place called Tidiford'. "About two miles lower, ' it wafhes the ancient borough of St. Germans ; and joining the Lynher, they both pafs into the Tamar. The Seaton rifes in the highlands of St. Clare, about four miles north-eaft of Lefkard ; and after a courfe of near twelve miles, falls into the fea. At the influx of this river, there formerly flood a town of the fame name ; but as there are no remains of it to be feen^ the whole has pro- bably been fwallowed up by the encroachments of the fnd fifty tons burthen may lie fecurely in this pier, even clofe to the quay, or along the ftrand. WALL. . 11 Above the town, on a high piece of land running off into the fea, and termed the Hew, is a fmall fort called Star-Caftle, from its fhape. It was built about the year 1592, by Sir Francis Godolphin, who was governor of thefe iflands in the time of queen Elizabeth. The ftand- ard is difplayed upon the rampart, which is connected by a fofs with the governor's houfe. A wide terrafs is extended from the caftle to the bar- racks, fituated at the entrance into the lines, which were originally intended to have been carried entirely round the peninfula. The magazine, in which the arms and military ftores are depofited, is fitv.ated contiguous to one of the baftions. Below thefe lines, the town above-mentioned, called Hew-town from the peninfula, is fituated. The princi- pal inhabitants and tradefmen live in this place, and here the cuftom-houfe is erected. Befides the fortifications already mentioned, a fort was begun in the time of Henry VIII. on a hill above the pool; but the impropriety of the fituation being foon difcovered, it was never finifhed. We alfo obferved, on all the fhores of this ifland where it was poflible for an enemy to land, the remains of block- houfes, batteries, with breaft-marks reaching from one to the other. Thefe are all modern works, and were probably erected during the civil war of Charles I. There is, however, a very large ftructure, called the Giant's Caftle, which owes its origin to more early times. It is fituated on a promontory, which, towards the fea, exhibits the appearance of a prodigious pile of rocks, heaped on one another. This flupendous pile has alfo a fharp declivity towards the land, and at the foot of it a ditch crofling a neck of land from fea to fea. Beyond this ditch is a low rampart in the fame direction, next a fecond ditch with a higher rampart ; and laftly, near the fummit of the crag, a wall of ftone encom- paffing the whole, except where the natural rocks ren- dered any farther fecurity unneceffary. Who were the builders of this ftruclure, is now im- poffible to be known : perhaps it may be imputed to the Danes or Saxons, and v/as erected during the time of their invafions. The country people, however, will have it, that it was built by the giants, and thence call it the Giant's Caftle. On a rock adjacent to this caftle, is an ancient temple of the Druids. The top of the rock is cleared from all protuberances by art, and on the furface the large ftones, v/hich form the temple, are placed: it is>of an elliptical form, one hundred and feventy-two feet from north to fouth, and one hundred and thirty-eight from eaft to weft. On the edges of the area are nine vaft ftones ftill remaining, together with feveral others of a fmaller fize, planted in the periphery of the ellipfis. There is no uniformity in the fhape of the ftones, nor are they placed at equal diftances, as appears from fome parts where none of the ftones have been removed. One ftone on the edge of this temple is feven feet ten inches high above the furface of the rock, and the inner front of it twenty feet long ; it is forty feet in girt, and on its furface are thirteen diftinct and curious bafons funk into it j and about five paces from it is a rude pillar fallen down. A few paces nearer the center of the ellipfis, is a flat rock, having three bafons on its top ; and in a right line, on the other fide of the center, is another flat rock, with four bafons on its top. In the tranfverfe diameter, and about two thirds from the center, towards the fouth, is a third flat rock, with four bafons on its furface ; and, in all probability, there was originally a fourth, at the fame diftance from the .center towards the north ; fo that fomething of defign appears even among this heap of rude ftones. What might be the ufe of thefe bafons, cannot now be known ; but doubtlefs they were fubfer- vient to the fuperftition of the Druids ; for the floor of this antique monument fufficiently indicates, that it was once a place confecrated to religious worfhip, as it could not ferve as a fepulchre. Perhaps they were intended to receive and preferve, in their utmoft purity, the waters that fall from the heavens, in order to be ufed in religi- ous rights : this feems the more probable, as not far from the Giant's Caftle, and fronting a large groupe of rock- it CORNWALL. fock-baforis, there {lands a prodigious rock, .of a thin pyramidal form, twelve feet at the bafe, and thirty feet high ; probably an object of the Druid devotion. In a cove, called Porthelik, about a mile north-eaft of the Giant's Caftle, the body of that great fea-captain, Sir Cloudefly Shovel, after his fhipwreck in the year 1707, was found, naked, and not to be diftinguifhed from the moft common failor; and in the fand, which naturally Offered its bofom for a fepulchre, it was interred. The nature of the place would have rendered it doubly inhu- man, not to have buried him, whoever he was. Ac- cordingly Horace (Ode 28. Lib. 1.) makes this the firft argument to befpeak the fame friendly office after a like misfortune. Stay traveller, and let thy generous breaft Guefs the fad tale, and bear my bones to reft : See where, at hand, thefe fports of wind and wave, May find the wifti'd for, tho' a fandy grave. Some time after the body was taken up, and conveyed to Weftminfter-Abbey ; but a fmall pit on the fandy green ftill marks the place of his firft interment. The ancient fepulchres are of two kinds, diftinguifhed by the names of Caves and Barrows. Both are very numerous in all the Scilly iflands ; but the moft remark- able of the former is called the Giant's Cave : the mouth of it is four feet fix inches wide, thirteen feet eight inches long, and three feet eight inches high. The whole cave is covered, from end to end, with large flat ftones, and upon this floor is a tumulus of rubbifh. The fheep in the adjacent pafture take fhelter in this ancient cave. All the barrows are conftructed in the fame manner. The outer circles are compofed of large ftones placed on their ends ; and the heap, within this circle, confifta of fmaller ftones mixed with earth and clay. Moft of them have a cavity in the center, covered with flat ftones, by which the weight of the materials above them is fup- ported. In fome the cavity is very fmall, and in others fo large as to compote the principal figure in the whole monument. At our return from viewing thefe monuments of anti- tiquity, we vifited the church, Which is fituated near the beach of the cove of Old Town. It is a decent ftruc- ture, built in the form of a crofs, though not fo old as the reformation. It has no tower, but at the weft end are two covered niches for two bells. After viewing the ifland of St. Mary's, we croiTed the channel, which is not two miles wide, and landed on the iouthern point of the ifland cf Trefcaw, called by fome writers St. Nicholas's ifland. It is about a mile and a half long, and a mile broad ; contains about forty fami- lies, and pays eighty pounds a year rent to the lord pro- prietor. The firft object that engaged our attention, after land- ing in Trefcaw, was an old breaft-work, of an irregular and uneven plan. It is called Oliver's Battery, but feems to have been the work of a more early age. Not far from this battery, is a moft beautiful pool of frefti water, called the Abby-pond. It is near half a mile in length, and a furlong broad, and furrounded with a delighcful turf, without either briar, thiftle, or flag. On a gently rifing ground, fronting the fouthern ex- tremity of this pond, ftood the Abby-church. The ftrueture is now in ruins, and the greater part of the ma- terials carried off by the pealants, with which they have erected a few mean cottages below it. The door, how- ever, with two handfome and capacious arched openings, and feverai windows, ftill remain. They are all caled with free ftone like that found in the quarries of Normandy. The next object we intended to vifit was the old caftle ; but being informed by the perfons who accom- panied us, that there was a very remarkable ftone, about a mufket-fhot from the caftle, we walked to it, *nd found it to be a large prodigious rock, flat on the furface, and placed a little {helving. The length of it is nineteen feet, and the breadth feven feet .ix inches. Round this enormous flor.e is a trench edged with a bank compofed of fmaller ftones, thirty-fix feet in diameter ; but whe- ther it was originally an altar, or one of the rock deities of the ancient Druids, cannot now be known. The old caftle, now In ruins, was once a large pile cf building, but very badly fituated to anfwer the intention; From the fquare form of the doors, &c. it does not feem to be older than Henry VIII. We have already faid, that the fituation of this caftle was badiy chofen, the fteep craggy hill on which it ftands being alone a fuffi- cient defence againft any enemy's landing thereabouts ; and there could be little danger on the land-fide, where the lines of a fortification, regularly divided into curtin and baftions, are ftill remaining. The impropriety of this fituation, however, feems to have been loon per- ceived, as this was fuffered to decay, and another, nearer the water's edge, was erected out of its ruins. This fort, which is now known by the name of Oli- ver's Caftle, ftands on the eaftern point of the entrancs into the harbour of New Grynfey. The principal bat- tery is only a few feet above the water's edge, fo that,, with guns of nine pounders, it commands entirely the mouth of that harbour. Within this battery is around tower, on the top of which is a battery of four pounders. The enfign ftaff is fixed in the fide of the parapet, which is about fix feet high. The church here, as in all thefe little iflands, is fmall, being only twenty-feven feet long, and iourteen wide T and feems to have been erected fince the reformation.. The inhabitants, however, from a notion of the fuperior fanctity of the abbey, bury all their dead in that church. On this ifland we faw the veftiges of an ancient tin- mine, the only work of this kind, as our companions informed us, now remaining in all the Scilly iflands. Here we faw the inhabitants bufied in making kelp, a kind of fait drofs, which they export to Briftol, and other places where there are glafs-houfes, kelp being a principal ingredient in making glafs : it is alio ufed in the manufactures of foap and alum. Kelp is made from the afhes of dry ore-weed, which grows in great plenty on the rocks furrounding thefe iflands, and principally in the months of June and July - t for after that time they think it wrong to cut any more ore-weed, but let it grow till the fubfequent year.. Each ifland has its proper limits afligned for gatherings the ore- weed, nor will they fuffer any to cut it be- yond his own proper bounds. They go off in their boats, fometimes to a confiderable diftance, and at low water cut the weed, &c. from the rocks with hoc ks, load their boats, and return with the tide. As foon as they land with rheir cargo, they fpread it thin upon the beach to dry, where they turn it often; and when dry, if the weather is likely to prove wet, they cock the ore? in the fame manner as hay, but in much fmaller heaps. When the ore is thus prepared, they form a circular fhelving-pit in the fand feven feet diameter, and three feet deep, lining the fides of the pit with ftones, that while they are ftirring the ore-weed, no earth or fand may mix with the kelp, which would greatly reduce its value. The pit being thus finifhed, they place a fmall bufh of furze, lighted, at the bottom, and throw on very lightly fome of the drieft ore-weed. As the fire gains ftrength, they feed it with frefti ore; and when a Tuffi- cient quantity is laid on, and the fire very ftrong, the whole has the appearance of bright glowing embers. When it is in this ftate, they mix and ftir it with iron rakes, from one fide of the pit to the other, till it begins to run, and an imperfect kind of vitrificatron enfues ; and when the whole mafs is melted, they fuffer it to reft, by which means it confolidates into a large lump at the bottom of the pit, as in a mould ; and when cold, it is taken out, broken into proper lumps, and packed into cafks for exportation. Great quantities of kelp are made in thefe iflands ; and we were affured, that in the year 175 1, the whole value of the kelp exported from hence amounted to five hundred pounds. As there is nothing particular in the reft of thefe iflands, except a light-houfe in the ifland of St. Agnes, we fhall not trouble the reader with a defcription of them ; but it may not be improper to obferve, that the ifland of Scilly, from which the whole cluftre takes its name, is a fmall ifland compofed wholly of cliffs and rocks, whofe barrennefs will not fuffer any animal, except birds, to CORNWALL. inh ibit them. It forms the S. W. promontory of thefe iflands, and from its great height, is generally the firft land feen by (hips coming from the fouthward. The Scilly iflands were doubtlefs much better inhabited in early times than they are at prefent, the whole num- ber of inhabitants now on all the iflands not amounting tu more than twelve hundred. There is alfo great reafon to think they were formerly much larger than at prefent, vaft trails of land having been fwallowed up by the fea, as plainly appears from hedges of ftone, and other ruins viable on the land? at low water, and upon which, at full fea, there are twelve feet of v/ater. And as thefe lands were every where fo well inclofed, and carefully divide*], the iflands mull have been well peopled; and if they were well peopled, they mull: have had towns and villages, and thefe towns muft have been in the low- lands, for the ruins in the higher are not fufficient to afford accommodation for great numbers. Thefe iflands, therefore, are greatly funk from what they were in an- cient time;. ; their towns and low-lands are fwallowed up by the ocean, and what remains can never reach their ancient improvement. But they Ihould not, even in their prefent ftate, be neglected, as they are of the greateft importance to the trade of England, both in peace and war. Many things, indeed, which the pre- fent age considers as neceflary, are here wanting ; but the inhabitants, who are ftrangers to the modern luxury, want nothing either for their defence, their fubfifience, or the means of procuring every thing neceflary to render life agreeable and happy. Though, in all probability, thev can never equal the inhabitants of thefe iflands in remote times, yet they are greatly fuperior to what they were fome ages ago ; their country, as well as their con- dition, have'been daily improving ever fince thefe iflands have been in the hands of the Godolphin family, who are ftill the worthy pofleifors. The prefent inhabitants of thefe iflands employ them- felvcs jn hufbandry, fifhing, and making kelp. Their iltuation for the firit is extremely good, from their inha- biting fuch little iflands, where the fea-fand, and the ore-weed, together with the manure from their cattle, with a foil good for every fpecies of grain, except wheat, fome of which, however, is cultivated in St. Mary's, and plenty of ftones for fences, afford the greateft encouragement to induftry. But the want~of mills is a great difadvantage. There is but one grift-mill in all the iflands, and this moved by the wind ; fo that in long calms, and other neceflary defici- encies, the inhabitants are obliged to grind their corn in hand-mills at home, a convenience which almoft every houfe is furnifhed with. But fhould a ftcrm happen between the time the blade appears, and the harveft, great damage is done to the crop, the fait fpray of the fea be- ing driven with fuch violence, that it breaks and burns up every thing that is tender. They have roots of all kinds, as turnips, carrots, po- tatoes, &c. together with pulfe and fallads. Dwarf fruit-trees alfo, fuch as goofeberries, currants, rafberries, and ail other fhrubs which do not rife above the hedges, tlourifn here. Hufbandry i3 not. however, the fole employment of the inhabitants ; great part of their time is fpent in fifh- ing. They catch mackrel in great plenty during their feafon : they alfo take great quantities of excellent tur- bot, fole, plaife, and ling; the laft they cure with fait, and fend it dried to many parts of England. They have alfo feme falmon, falmon-^pele, cod, pollock, and other fifh, particularly pilchard.;, which come into their coves forne time before they reach the bays of Cornwall, and might be taken in prodigious quantities, cured, and fent to market, (boner than thefe taken by the Cornifh- mcn. But tjlis advantage is totally neglected, and only a few catched to fuppiy the wants of the inhabitants. The air cf thefe iflands is, in general, healthy, being cenftandy fanned by the fea-breezes, rifing from every quarter, and uninfected by any large trails of marfhy grounds ; but fea-fbgs are more common here than where there are large trails of land. In the months of June and July, when they burn their ore-weed for making kelp, the air is filled with a heavy difagreealile vapour, 2 ft v/hich is not foon difperfed. During the fummer, the air is very hot, occafioned by the large traits of fand ; and in the winter, the fand is blown up from the caves in fuch clouds, as renders walking abroad very difagreeable. The water from the wells, in feveral of thefe iflands, is very good, for they have no running water, except after great floods. They have moll of the ufeful birds known in Eng- land, particularly a fmall bird, not bigger than a lark, of an afh-colour, called a hedge-chicker, and thought by many not inferior to the ortolan. Every fpecies of tame poultry they have here in great perfection. Sea- birds, efpecially puffins, are very numerous ; they build among the rocks, and are of a fifhy tafte. Their black cattle are, in general, fmall. Ore -weed is great part of their food ; and fuch as have been ufed to it will not thrive, unlefs they have liberty to refort to the fea fhore, and feed upon that vegetable. Their horfes are fmall, but lively, and fit for labour* their fheep, though not large, are extremely valuable, and their flelh of a fine tafte. They will feed upon the ore- weed, as well as the bullocks. There is neither viper, nor any other venomous crea- ture, to be found in thefe iflands. They have, however, a fpecies of very troublefome fly, though not poifonous. They hide themfelves during the day-time, but come forth in fwarms by night, fpreading themfelves over the kitchen, pantry, &c. and devouring every eatable that comes in their way. This fly is called a cock-roche, and has four wings of a brown tortoife-fhell colour. It is an American fly, and fuppofed to have been brought into Scilly, by opening a furgeon's cheft in one of thofe iflands. All the ancient hiftorians inform lis, that thefe iflands were once very famous for their tin ; and Strabo tells us, that the mailer of a Phoenician veffel bound hither, per- ceiving he was followed by a Roman, ran his fhip afhore, chufing rather to rifk his life, fhip and cargo, than ad- mit a partner in this traffic, by fhewing him the way to thefe iflands. The Romans, however, by perfifting in their refolution, at laft accomplifhed their defign. But there are now no tin-mines in thefe iflands; they are therefore fwallowed up by the fea, unlefs we fuppofe that the inhabitants had their tin from Cornwall; or that the ancients included that county in the general name of Caffiterides, an appellation they gave to the iflands of Scilly. Before we conclude our account of the Scilly iflands, we muft obferve, that they were the laft retreat of the royal party, in the late civil war. But Cromwell knew too well the value of thefe iflands, to let them remain in any other hands; and accordingly admiral Blake and Sir George Afkue were difpatched, at the head of a body of troops, to reduce them. They landed in Trefcaw with- out much oppofition, the king's party retiring by night to St. Mary's, where there were at that time a thoufand men more, and among them a great number of officers. The royal party being thus retired from Trefcaw, the enemy made ufe of the old breaft-work we have defcribed in our account of that ifland, in order to erect an ad- vanced battery that might command the road at St. Mary's. This battery covered their camp, which lay on a low neck of land about a mile to the north, and, at the fame time, could effectually annoy all fhips coming in or going out of St. Mary's ; for when the winds or tides are any thing violent, the fhips muft either run upon the rocks, or come very near this battery. In confequence of this fkilful difpofition of the parlia- ment's forces, the king's party were fo much diltrefled, that one Mr. Philips was fent, with an account of their fituation, to the prince, then in Holland, and the cava- liers had leave to furrender upon the beft terms they could procure. Accordingly eight hundred foldiers, to- gether with officers fufficient to head an army, furren- dered themfelves on terms of capitulation. Thefe iflands, with regard to ecclefiaftical jurifdiilion, are fubject to the bifhop of Exeter, as they were, before the fee vva.< tranflated to Exeter, to the bifhop of Cornwall. The prefent inhabitants of the Scilly iflands are very civil to itraneers, and remarkable for fpeaking good E Englifh. f4 COR Englifh. The men, though at other times employed abouthufbandry, fpend part of the year in boats and filiiing, which renders them acthe and hardy; and being alio much ui'ed to fowling in the winter, are good markimen, and therefore would foon make excellent foldiers or failors. And it is neceflary to be remembered, that the fecurity of thefc iflands muft chiefly depend upon the fpirit and docility of the inhabitants j for their other de- rences are rather imaginary than redl, the garrifon con- futing only of about forty invalids ; and with regard to the difficulties of finding the way into thefe harbours, they dre not fo great as they appear at hi (I fight : a little experience will be fufficient to iurmount the difficulties, and pilots are not impoffible to be procured. The fituation of thefe iflands renders them of great advantage to fhipping in general bound from the coaft or England to the ibuthw'ard, but of peculiar benefit to all the channel traders paffing between the Englifh and St. George's channel ; for being titrated nine leagues to the weftward of the Land's-End, the fhips going from one of thefe channels to the other, muft pafs near Scilly ; and if they are taken with a contrary wind, which is very often the cafe, they generally chufe to bear away for Scilly, as a place from which they can clear the head- lands of England as foon as the wind changes. Accord- ingly they are greatly frequented, it being not uncom- mon to fee feventy or eighty fail of mips in the pier and road of St. Mary's. The inhabitants, who make it their bufinefs to pilot fhips into thefe harbours and founds, are very alert in their profeffion. As foon as any fhips appear in the offing, they go out, ten ot twelve together in one boat, and fleering up along- fide, one of them jumps on board the fhip, and the boat proceeds to another, and a fecond pilot leaps into her, then to a third, &c. till there are only two men left in the boat, which then returns to the neareft creek, it being often impoffible for the two men to bring her back to the place from whence fhe failed. A ftranger cannot behold this piece of dexterity without being in pain for the confequence; but cuftom has ren- dered it fo familiar, that very few accidents happen. But however ufeful the iflands of Scilly may be to na- vigation in times of peace, they are ftill more fo in war ; for were they ever to fall into the hands of an enemy, the channel trade from Ireland, Liverpool, Wales and IBriftol, to London, and the fouthern parts of England, could not fubfift. For Scilly lying off the Land's-End of England, and looking into both channels, no fhip could pafs without being vifited by privateers from fome of thefe roads or harbours. Accordingly, queen Elizabeth was fo fenfible of their importance, when at war with the Spaniards, the molt powerful nation by fea then in the known world, that fhe ordered, and encouraged Sir Francis Godolphin, lord lieutenant of Cornwall, to improve and ftrengthen thefe iflands. Accordingly Star-Caftle, on the ifland of St. Mary's, was begun and finifhed in 1593: a curtin and baftions, on the fame hill, were alfo erected, and others begun. By this means the harbour and pool, juft below the cattle, were pretty well defended. As loon as the eaftle was built and garrifoned, houfes were erected l:e- low the lines on the edge of the pool, and inhabitants encouraged to fettle there, as the place was very conveni- ent for fheltering fhips bound into either of the channels, and at the fame time commodious for fifhing, fecure from pirates, and national enemies, and had plenty of both ore- weed and fea-fand for the improvement of the foil. This had the defired elFe£t, and the iflands of Scilly have, ever fince that period, been continually increafing. While the iflands were in the hands of the royal party, during the latter end of the civil war, the parliament miniftry fully experienced the confequence; for Whit- lock tells us, that continual complaints were made to the managers of affairs at London, of the daily capture of fhips by the privateers of Scilly. And this gave occafion for fending admiral Blake and Sir George Afkue to dif- lodge the cavaliers from a poll which gave them fuch op- portunities of diftreffing the trade of England. At the fame time, the Dutch were very defirous of being matters ©f thefe iflands i tho' all their fchemes, both for conqueft N W A L L. and purchafe, became abortive. But the very attempt fhould teach us to let a proper val ue on the Sol! v iflands, and never iulFcr them to fall into an enemy's hand. Having furveyed the iflands of Scilly, and remarked every thing that feemed to merit attention, we returned back to St. Michael's Mount, but had not fo good a pafi.ige as in our vifit to thefe iflands. The wind, which was fair, and blew an eafy gale, when we left St. Mary's pier, died away when we were about the middle oi the channel, where we continued during the whole night. When the morning appea:ed, the wind again fprurig up; but before we reached Mount's Bay, blew fo very hard, that it was with the utmoft difficulty we reached the pier at St. Michael's Mount. After refrefhing ourfelves a few days at the village on the ftrand of the Mount, we crofted over the fands to Mar- ket- Jew ; for it mould be obferved, that the finds are dry at low Water, on a fpring-tide ; fo that St. Michael's is alternately an ifland, and a promontory joined to Corn- wall by an ifthmu; of fund. Penzance was the next place we vifited in Cornwall. It is a market-town fituated at the bottom of Mount's- Bay, two hundred and ninety miles from London. In 1595, it was burnt by the Spaniards, who, with four galleys, furprized this part of the coaft, and let feveral villages and farms on fire. Penzance was, however, foon after rebuilt, and made one of the coinage towns. It is now a populous place, with a good trade, and has many fhips belonging to it. This part of the coaft a- bounds fo much with lend, tin, and copper ore, that the veins of metal are vifible to the utmoft extent of the land at lew water. Penzance has a well frequented market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, viz. Thurfday after Trinity Sunday, and Thurfday before Advent Sunday, both for the fale of cattle. In this parifh, not far from Penzance, is St. Madern's Well, famous for its cures, particularly for lamenelies, and lcrofulous difordcrs. It is of the chalybeate kind ; and we were aiTured, that feveral perfons had lately re- ceived very great benefit from drinking the waters. We could not indeed perceive that they were warmer than that of other fprings, but the mineral tafte was very- perceptible. At a little diftance from this well, is a famous ftone monument of the ancient Druids. It conflfts of three ftones ftanding erect, and forming a triangle. One of thefe ftones is thin and flat, and fixed in the ground on its edge : in the middle of it is a large hole, about four- teen 'inches diameter, and from thence is called Men an Tol, which, in the Cornifh language, fignifies, the holed ftone. The other two ftones are rude pillars, about four feet high ; and near one of them is a ftone, lying like a cufhion or pillow, as if to kneel upon. It is not eafy to determine the particular rite or ceremony to which this monument was appropriated ; but the country people in the neighbourhood, even to this day, creep through the holed ftone, when afflicted with pains in their backs and limbs. Young children alfo are drawn through it, as a cure for the rickets. At the fame time, it likewife ferve3 as an oracular monument, to inform them of fome ma- terial incident they are defirous of knowing, either with regard to love or fortune. There are feveral of thefe kinds of monuments in this county, as well as many rocks of fuch amazing dimenfions, remarkable fhape, and Airprizing pofitions, as leave no room to doubt of their being once the deities of the Druias, who were greatly addicted to the fuperftition of worfhipping rocks. The great read from London to the Land's-End lies through Penzance. We propofed to follow this road to view that remarkable promontory ; but foon after our leaving the town, we turned off to the left, in order to infpect a ftone monument, which, we were informed, was at Kerris, in the parifh of St. Paul. It is an oval inclofure, called the Roundago, which is about fifty-two paces from north to fouth, and thirty-four from eaft to weft. At the fouthern extremity ftand four rude ftone pillars, about eight feet high, at the foot of which lie fome large ftones, fuppofed to have formerly refted on thefe pillars. Hav.'ng CORN Having fatished cur curiofity with regard to this an- tique monument, we continued our ioutc to the fea- i\dr, where there is a (mail village called Kara Bof- cawen, about five miles from Penzance. Here v/e favv another ancient monument, confuting of a large flat ftone, one end of which refts upon the natural rock, and the other on three large ftones, which form a firm and proper fupport for the weight of the horizontal ftone. Between this canopy and its fupporters, there is an open- ing feven feet wide at the top, but clofing gradually into an acute angle at the bottom. The top-ftone is too nicely fupported to be the work of nature ; and the open- ing underneath it is fuppofed to have been defigned for the feat of fome chief-prieft among the Druids, from whence he might iffue his edicts and decifions, his pre- dictions, and actmiflions to noviciates ; and indeed the mind can hardly form to itfelf a fcene more ftriking and awful than this, which connfts of vaft rocks on either fide above and below, fronting an immenfe ocean. From Karn Bofcawen we proceeded to Caftle-Treryn, in order to view the famous logan, or rocking-ftone, placed here. It is fituated on a remarkable promontoiy, about three miles to the eaft of the Land's-End, and confifts of three diftinct piles of rocks. On the weftern fide of the middle pile, near the top, lies a very large ftone, fo evenly poifed, that any perfon may rock it; and yet the extremities of its bafe are at fuch a diftance from each other, and fo well fecured, that it is impoffible for any lever, however applied, to remove it from its prefent fituation. From this i-.onument of antiquity, we proceeded alonij the coaft to that remarkable promontory called the Land's End ; and in our way, obferved great numbers of birds, called the Cornifh cough, the pyrrhocorax of authors. It is about the fize of a jack-daw; its legs, to.s, and bill, are of a ftrong vermillion colour ; and the bony fub- ftance of thefe parts clear even to tranfparency. They are always yellow when the bird is young, and in the hen yellower than in the cock ; but as they advance in age, the yellow changes gradually into a red. Its feathers are of a much richer velvet black than thofe of any other crow. It fhrieks very loud at the approach of any thing ftrange or frightful ; but when it applies for meat, its chatter is extremely foft and engaging, making its court to thofe who ufually give it food. Its ftrength lies in its bill and neck rather than in its wings, and therefore not fo warlike in the air as other crows ; but on the ground it is very quarrelfome, whetting and darting its bill, not fuffering any ftranger to touch it, however tame. Very apprehenfive of danger, it builds its nefts in the cliffs, but neither at the top, as if its fears were only from be- low ; nor at the bottom, as if all its fears were from above ; but in the middle of the fteepeft precipice. It is very amufing when kept tame, docile, regular, andcon- ftant to its hour for meat ; early at rooft ; in bad wea- ther fond of fheker, and feldom feen ; but when the weather is fine, it enjoys the air on the tops of houfes,- if tame; if wild, ftrutting ftately along the hills by the fea-fide. It feems delighted with any thing that has a glittering appearance, very agile, and meddling ; and therefore not to be trufted alone, where fire, money, or papers of confequence lie, though not near fo mif- chievous as the jack-daw. It is a great enemy to houfes covered with thatch, difperfing themoift and rotten parts by its long bill in fearching for worms : it will alfo pick out the lime pointing of walls, in fearching for fpiders and flies. We fhall conclude this account of the Cornifh cough with obferving, that it is the moft graceful, flen- der, and genteel bird, of the crow kind. We alfo found among the rocks, at low water, that fpeciesof the buccinum which yields the beautiful pur- ple, fo greatly extolled by the ancients. It is a fmall fhell fifh of the fnail kind ; the fhells are of various tincTs, but moft of them of a fandy colour. The co- louring matter is contained in a fmall ciftus or bag, which appears like a part of the inteftines ; and when firft extracted, is of a greenifh colour ; but if linen be wet with this fluid, the marks cf it will, in a day or two, appear of a pale reddifh colour; and when wafhed fox the firft time, is heightened into a palifh purple ; WALL. . 15 every warning after exalts the colour, till it becomes ftrong and vivid ; nor is it ever fubje£t to fade or decay. T here are alfo found in thefe fands great quantities of the razor, cutler, or fheath-fifh. This fifh, which in- habits a cylindrical fhell, refembling the round fheath of a knife, keeps itfelf always perpendicularly funk in the (and, but in fuch a mariner, that its head is conftantly uppermoft: its head is diftinguifhable, not by its figure, but by two tubes, which receive and eject water, necef- fary for its refpiration. The lower part of the fheath- fifh is that which ferves for its progreifive or perpendicu- lar motion : this motion is confined to a foot and a half, or two feet perpendicular height, and is effected by means of a leg which is protruded from its {hell. Hav- ing a power of varying thefhape of the extremity of this leg, fo as to make it fome what pointed, in order to pe- netrate through the fand, or to fwell it into the figure of a bowl, in order to increafe the furface, and confequently the refiftance from the fand, it can fink down or raife it- felf up, till the inferior part of the fhell is even with the furface of the fand. It is eafy to make the fheath-fifh perform thefe two motions ; for when the tide is out, and has left the hole, where it lodges, bare, you need only throw into it a little fait, and the fheath-fifti will immediately rife half out of the fand, and is then eafily taken ; but if you would fee him fink back into his hole, the leaft touch will be fufii- cient, for he will immediately fink back below the fand ; nor will any quantity of fait thrown into his hole, be fuf- ficient to make him rife a fecond time. The fifhermen. in Cornwall, however, take thefe fifh without the aflift- ance of fait, by means of a fmall kind of fpade ; for the fifh, unlefs disturbed, lying near the furface of the fand, they throw him out with great facility. Care muft how- ever he taken to approach the hole with great caution, that the fifh may apprehend no danger; for if once dif- turbed, he finks immediately beyond the reach of the fpade. Another fingular fpecies of bivalve fiiell-fifh common among the rocks on this coaft, is called the Pholas. This creature is deftined to live its whole life in a hole in the rock, which it makes for its abode. This hole, by which it enters the ftone, is at firft very fmall, often not above the tenth part of an inch ; but from this fmall aparture it keeps incelfantly boring its way into the ftone, till it has entered twelve or eighteen inches within the furface, and the fifh is three or four inches long, and near an inch thick. The fhell feems to be the inftrument by which it excavates the ftone, for the fore part of it on each fide is armed with feveral {harp- edged protuberances like thofe of a rafp ; at the fame time the figure of the hole is exactly fimilar to that of the fhell, and fo nearly equal to it, that there is very little room for it to open. At the hinder part of the fifh is a round flefhy fubftance often protruded from the fhell, and about two inches long. This part has been called the probofcis of the fifh, and confidered as the inftrument by which the ca- vity in the ftone is formed. It is very fingular, that though great numbers of thefe fifh are often found in the fame ftone, yet they never infringe upon each other's cells, though the partitions are fometimes not more than a line in thicknefs. We next furveyed that famous promontory called the Land's End, remarkable, as being the moft wefterly point of this kingdom ; but has nothing befides, except its lofty cliffs, to recommend it to the obfervation of a traveller. There is a fmall place in the neighbourhood, called Senan, three hundred miles from London. Near it are feveral tin-works, which render the country full of people. About a mile from the Land's-End, and between that and Cape Cornwall, is a remarkable cove, called Por- nanvon. Under the clay and rubble which form the upper part of the cliff, are ranged horizontally many rows of large and fmall roundifh pebbles of the granite kind. The covering of this pebbly ftratum is fifty feet deep at the north end, but only twenty on the fouth, connfting of a rough yellow clay, charged here and there with large and fmall ftones, all with thin angles on ; whereas thofe of the fame fize and texture ftrewed on the i6 CORN the ft rand below, are rounJ ; owing, in all probability, to their being toffed to and fro by the force of the tide. On examining the intcrftices of this pebbly ftratum, we found many fmull black flatty ftones, with their angles fmoothed off", and between them fand of different kinds at different levels. This fand, though now fifteen feet higher than the full fea-mark, has every evidence that can be expected of its having come from the fea, and afterwards covered with a load of rubbifh, from twenty to fifty feet deep. Near the church of St. Juft, and about a mile and a half from the above cove, is a remarkable ancient amphi- theatre; and by the remains of it, feems to have been a work of more than ufual labour and correclnefs. It was an exact circle of one hundred and twenty-fix feet in diameter, inclofed with a bank, round which are benches of ftone. The perpendicular height of the bank from the area within, is not feven feet, but the height from the bottom of the ditch without, ten feet. The feats confift of fix fteps, fourteen inches wide, and a foot high, with one on the top of all, where the rampart is about feven feet wide. There are, in feveral parts of Britain, many theatres of this kind, and fome that are femicircular. The latter form are doubtlefs beft adapted to the inftruclion and in- formation of the audience ; yet, as they cannot be fup- pofed, in thefe illiterate times, to have confulted the de- light and inftruction of the ear, fo much as the pleafure and entertainment of the eye, it is not fo commonly met with among the remains of antiquity as the amphitheatri- cal form, which being more capacious, was generally preferred to the former, In thefe amphitheatres the an- cient Britons ufually affembled to hear plays, and fee fports and games. Here they alfo performed all their athletic exercifes, for which the Cornifh Britons are ftill remarkable ; and when any fingle combat was to be fought on foot, no place was thought fo proper as thefe inclofed circles. From St. Juft we purfued our tour to Lanyon, a vil- lage about three miles from St. Juft, where there is' a famous antique monument called a Cromlech. 1 his fort of monument, of which there are many in various parts of England, Wales, Ireland, &c. confifts of a large flat ftone, placed in a horizontal pofition, and fup- ported by other flat ftones fixed in the ground. The fituation generally chofen for this monument is the fum- mit of a hill, doubtlefs in order to render it as confpicu- ous as poflible. Sometimes it is mounted on a barrow or mound of earth ; fometimes placed in the middle of a circle of erect ftones, in which cafe it is fuppofed to have been erected on fome extraordinary occafion j efpecially when the circle has a tall ftone in the middle, the crom- lech is placed in the periphery: the elevation of it is ge- nerally fix, eight or more feet from the ground, though fome are found quite inclofed, and, as it were, buried in the barrow. There are rarely more than three fupporters to this monument, and thefe inclofe an area of about fix feet in length, and four in width. The cromlech we vifited at Lanyon, is placed on a bank of earth not two feet higher than the adjacent foil, but twenty feet wide, and feventy feet long, running north and fouth. The upper, or cover ftone, is forty-feven feet in girt, nineteen feet long ; and in fome places two feet thick, and fo hiah above the ground, that a man on horfeback may ftand un- der it. At Molfra, about a mile from Lanyon, is another cromlech, placed on the fummit of a round hill : the cover ftone meafures eight feet nine inches by fourteen feet three inches : the fupporters, which are three in number, are five feet high, and the length of the in- cumbent ftone placed eaft and weft. It was evidently brought from a karn or ledge of rocks, about a furlong to the north- weft, where there are feveral very large flat ftones lying horizontally over one another. The ftone barrow with which this cromlech is furrounded, is not above two feet high, but thirty-feven feet three inches in diameter. The ufe and intention of thefe monuments appear to have been fepulchral, as is evident from feveral circum- W A L L. ftances, particularly from the fkeleton of a h'iman Vdy, together with feveral pieces of bones lately du^ up under a monument of this kind in Ireland. Having viewed thefe monuments of antiquity, we palled on to St. Ives, a borough town fituated on the Irifh fea, two hundred and feventy-eight miles from London. It fends two members to parliament, and has enjoyed that privilege ever fince the firft year of queen Mary. It is governed by a mayor, twelve capital, anJ twenty-four inferior burgefies, a recorder, town-clerk, &c. St. Ives has a harbour on the Irifh fea, but is now almoft choaked up with fand, the whole coaft from this town to the Land's-End being a long tract cf fand- banks, fo that the inhabitants have been more than once obliged to clean their harbour. The town is now but little frequented, having decreafed with its trade, which the badnefs of the harbour has greatly injured. The church, however, which is a chaoel cf eafe to the parifh of Unilalant, is large and handfome, but ftands fo near the fea, that the waves often dafh again ft its walls; a proof that the ocean has made here large encroachments on the land, even within a few centuries; for it cannot be fuppofed the church was erected fo near the water. There is likewife a free grammar-fchool founded here by king Charles I. of which the bifhop of Exeter, and the mayor and burgeffes, are governors. The bay, in which this town ftands, and thence called St. I\es Bay, is greatly expofed to the north and north-weft winds, which have thrown fuch quantities of land into it, that it is almoft ufelefs to fhips of any burden. The Heyl falls into the bottom of this bay, and was formerly navi- gable much higher than at prefent, as we have already obferved in defcribing that river. The land between the bottom of St. Ives Bay, and that of Mount's Bay, is not above three miles over, and the tov/n of St. Ives fo fitu- ated, that neither the Britifh nor St. George's Channel are at any great diftance. At the fame time the illands of Seilly may be feen from the top of the adjacent hill, in a clear day. A very confid^rable trade was carried on here before the harbour wai ruined by the fand,- and twenty or thirty fhips of confiderable burden belonged "to St. Ives; but at prefent the principal trade confifts in pilchards, and the exportation of Cornifh flate. Many veflels, however, ftill frequent this place, loaded with coals from the coaft of Wales, for the ufe of the tin mines in its neighbourhood, and carry back copper-ore. Here are two weekly markets held on Wednefdays and Fridays ; and one annual fair kept on the Saturday before Advent-Sunday, for the fale of cattle. On the to{ Df the hill above-mentioned, from whence the iflands of cilly may be feen, is a very handfome cromlech: the top- ftone is of the fame dimenfions widi that above defcribed at Molfra, and feems to have been brought from the fame karn. The top-ftone alfo points the fame way, viz. eaft and weft, and is eight feet ten inches from the ground. Beneath it is a ftone cheft, neatly formed, and fenced every way. The whole is furrounded by a ftone barrow, forty-feven feet in diameter. There are ftill great numbers of thefe artificial mounds or barrows in many parts of Cornwall ; they are monu- ments of the remoteft antiquity, and often of the higheft dignity. They were originally intended for the more fecure protection of the remains of the dead, and intro- duced by the practice of the Dm ids, who firft burnt their dead, and then buried the allies ; though afterwards many were railed for other purpofes. The materials of which barrows confift, are either a multitude of fmall and large ftones, earth alone, or ftones and earth mixed together, and forming a little hill or mound, called by the Romans Tumulus. An earthen barrow of a wide circumference, and about five feet high, fituated in a field at Trelowarren, not far from Hellton, was opened in July 1 751 , When the workmen had dug half way to the bottom, they found a parcel of ftones placed in foms order, which being re- moved, a cavity was difcovered in the very center of the barrow, about two feet in diameter, and the fame in height. It was furrounded and covered with ftones, and contained human bones of different forts, inter- mixed with wood-alhes. At the diftance of a few feet from CORN from this central cavity, there were found two urn?, one on each fide, with their mouths downwards, and filled with fmall bones and afhes. Among the earth of the barrow were found three thin pieces of brafs, fuppofed to have been fragments of a fword, or fome other in- ftrumcnt, which, after being placed on the funeral pile, was broke and thrown into the barrow, among the earth and other materials that were heaped together. Some barrows difcover greater art and exadtnefs than that we have juft described. Many are furrounded with a finale row of ftones, which form the bafe, and thence called ftone barrows ; others are furrounded with a ring or fofs of earth : fome have a large flat ftone on the top, now and then with, but oftener without any infeription. Some have a circle round the bottom, and another round the top ; and where this cuftom prevailed, and no Hones offered, trees were planted. When thefe barrows were not very large, and the burial-places of private perfons onlv, thev were fituated near the public roads, to put travellers in mind of their own deftiny. If they were the fepulchrcs of common foldiers, they were ge- nerally thrown up on the field of battle where the fol- die:s fell. Thefe are always found in ftraight lines, llretched along the plains which have been the fcenes of great actions, as regularly as the front of an army. The fize alfo of thefe lepulchral monuments is various, but generally large in proportion to the quality of the de- ceafed, or the vanity, affectation, and power of the fur- vivors. But though the principal caufe of the erection of thefe barrows was to inclofe either the afhes or bodies of the dead, they were afterwards applied to the folemnization of great actions, from that kind of veneration the ancients always paid to the fepulchres of the dead. Accordingly the Druids kindled their annual fires on the large flat ftone found on the tops of many barrows. Where the earthen barrows are inclofed by a circle of erect ftones, they are fuppofed to have ferved as altars for facrifices. They were alfo probably ufed at times of inauguration, the prince elect ftanding on the top expofed to the view of all the people ailemblcd together, and the Druid office - ating clofe to the edge below. Judgment was alfo fre- quently pronounced from the fame hillock, and the moft important caufes decided on the fame facred eminence. We crofted the river Heyl, landing at a village called Philac, where veffels of a hundred tons may fbfely ride; and continued our journey to Redruth, a populous town fituated among the tin-mines, two hundred and feventy- three miles from London. It has three annual fairs for the fale of cattle, &c. the firft on the fecond of May, the fecond on the fifth of September, and the third on the firft of October. From Redruth we continued our jou J ey, along the large road, to the borough town of St. Michael's, two hundred and fixty-one miles from London. This place has enjoyed the privilege cf fending members to parliament cverfince the latter end of the reign of Edward VI. It is governed by a portreve chofen annually by a jury of the chief inhabitants, out of the fix chief tenants, called deputy lords of the manor, becaufe they hold lands in the borough. It was formerly called Modifhole, and has been fainted by a vulgar error, -and its name changed to that of Michael. It was of confiderable note in the Saxon times, but is now dwindled to a mean hamlet, to the paiifhc, of Newland and St. Enidore, not confid- ing of more than thirty houfes, inhabited by poor people, w ho have neither trade nor privilege, except that of fend- ing two members to parliament. St. Michael's has no market, but two annual fairs, the firft on the Monday after Michaelmas, and the fecond on the eighth of No- vember. About eight miles from St. Michael's is a famous fpring, called Holywell. It is fituated in a fmall fandy bay, where there are feveral caves wrought into the cliff by the fea. In one of thefe caves, at the north-eaft point of the bay, and at the foot of a high cliff, the well is found. The entrance is low, but by the help of fome fteps cut in the rock, ycu afcend about fifteen feet per- pendicular, where the water, which diftiils from every part of the roof, is collected into a little bafon, from 2. W ALL.. 17 which proceeds a fmall rill about the bignefs of a reed. Some fnort ftalactites hang from the roof ; and the floor of the rock, on which you tread, is covered with the fame fubftance. The water is much commended in fluxes, and other diforders of the bowels ; but we could not dii- cover it contained any mineral properties, though we made feveral experiments for that purpofe. St. Columb is a fmall market town fituated on a little river which falls into the fea at Port Glevan, two hun- dred and forty miles from London. It has its name from the church, which ftands in the town, and is dedicated to St. Columba. The place is inconfiderable, though the juftices of the fouthern divifion keep their feffions, and hold a court here once in three weeks, for determin- ing all actions under forty fhillings. It has a market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, held on the Thurfday after the thirteenth of November, and the Thurfday after Mid-Lent Sunday, both for the fale of cattle. Near the town is a hill, with a fortification on its fum- mit, and caufeway leading to it, and was originally a Danifh encampment. About eight miles from St. Columb, lies the town of Padftow, called originally Petrock-Stow, from Pe- trocus, a Britifh hermit, who refided here in his cell. It ftands at the mouth of the Camel, in the Briftol chan- nel, very convenient for carrying on a much greater trade with Ireland, Wales and Briftol, than there is at prefent, though it is now pretty confiderable. But the harbour, though the beft on the northern coaft of Cornwall, and capable of receiving a confiderable fleet of large fhips, cannot be entered without great danger, except by a fkil- ful pilot, as there is a ledge of rocks on the eaft fide, and a fhifting bar of fand on the weft. The principal trade of this place, befides that already mentioned, confifts in exporting flate, and the herring fifhery, which come up the channel in October. Here is a market on Saturday, pretty well frequented ; and two annual fairs for the fale of cattle, &c. on the eighteenth of April, and the twen- ty-firft of September. From Padftow we went up the Camel to Wadebridge, a ftructure already defcribed in our account of that river. The place is fmall, but has three annual fairs for the fale of cattle, viz. the twelfth of May, the twenty-fecond of June, and the tenth of October. From Wade-bridge we purfued our journey to Bod- myn, one of the ancient boroughs of Cornwall, two hundred and fixty-three miles from London. It is fitu- ated near the center of the county, and between two hills, which renders it lefs healthy than almoft any other part of the county. It is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, twenty-four common council, and a town- clerk. The corporation are poffeffed of a toll and lands to the value of near two hundred pounds per annum. Bodmyn confifts principally of one ftreet near a mile loug, running from eaft to weft, and containing about three hundred houfes. The hill on the fouth fide inter- cepts effectually the fun, as well as the current of the air; and the back buildings confift principally of kitchens, ftables, and other buildings of that kind; and being built on the declivity of a hill, are afcended by fteps, fo that the filth is, by every fhower of rain, wafhed down through the houfes into the ftreet. The hill on the north fide is not fo fteep, and there- fore is not fo very inconvenient to the houfes ; but the water which fupplies the town is carried in an open trench through the church-yard, the common burying- place for both the town and parifh. The church is the largeft in the whole county, and had once a lofty fpire, which was deftroyed by lightning in the year 1699. A church near this fpot was originally built to the memory of St. Petrocus, and the epifcopal fee of Cornwall was placed here by king Edward the elder, about the year 905 ; and about the year 926, king E- thelftan is faid to have met with old Saxon, or rather Britifh monks, following the rule of St. Benedict, to whom he granted fuch great privileges and endowments, that he is confidered as the founder of the monaftry, the remains of which are ftill to be feen, together with thofe of the epifcopal palace. About the year 1 1 20, one Algar re-eftablifhed this monaftery, placing in it regular canons F of Cornwall. of the order of St. Auguftinc, who continued till the ge- ft:ial fupprefiion of religious houfes in the reign of Henry VIII. when this monaftery was ftiled the priory of Sc. Mary and St. Petroc, and valued at two hundred and feventy pounds and eleven-pence per annum. Bef»des the above ruins, there are many veftiges of large buildings, which abundantly fhew it was once of much greater confequence than at prefent; and indeed, fo lately as the time of Henry VIII. it was confidered as the largcft town in the county : it was alio formerly one Of the coinage towns, but that privilege has for many years been transferred to Leftwithiel. It was alfo for- merly the ftaple for the yarn manufacture, but that branch of trade is now greatly decayed. It is, however, ftill the fhcriff's prifon for debtors ; and has a free- fchool, partly maintained by the duke of Cornwall, and partly by the corporation. On the fouth fide of the market-place are ftill fome femains of a houfe of Grey-friars, begun by John of London, a merchant of that city, but a native of BoJ- myn, and augmented by Edmund carl of Cornwall. In the time of queen Elizabeth, the above priory was made a houfe of correction for this countv. Bodmyn has a market on Saturday, pretty well fre- quented ; and four annual fairs for the fale of horfes, oxen, fheep, cloth, and a few hops, viz. the twenty- fifth of January, Saturday after Mid-Lent Sunday, Wed- nefday before Whitfunday, and the fixth of December. A very remarkable incident of wanton cruelty hap- pened here in the fixteenth century. Immediately after the infurredtion which happened in this county during the reign of Edward VI. had been quelled, one Sir An- thony Kingfton, then provoft marfhal of the king's army, came to Bodmyn, and fent an order to the mayor, com- manding him tocaufe a gibbet to be erected in the flreet, before his own houfe, by the next day at noon ; adding, that he would then come and dine with him, that he might be prefent at the execution of fome rebels, whom it would be neceffary to punifh capitally, as a fanction to the law, and an atonement to the ftate. The order Was readily complied with by the mayor, who alfo pro- vided a genteel entertainment for his gueft, whom he received with the greateft refpect, and took every method in his power to make him welcome. After this intrepid knight, or rather monfter in the human fhape, had been thus regaled by his unfufpecfing hoft, and pledged by him in wine till he faw his fpirits exhilarated, and his heart open ; when he afked if the gibbet was ready ? The mayor replied, it was ; upon which Kingfton, with a fneer of wanton and diabolical cruelty, ordered him to be immediately hanged upon it. Near this town there was formerly a fpring called Scarlet-well, but very improperly ; for the film which gathered on the furface, reflected not the fcarlet only, but all the colours of the rainbow. The water was faid to be confiderably heavier than that of common fprings, and to keep, without lofing either its fcent or tafte, the greater part of the year. Many miracles were pretended to have been performed by this water about the time of the reformation ; but the neighbouring magiftrates hav- ing detected the worker of thefe lying wonders, the mi- racle ceafed, and the fituation of the well is not now ex- actly known. From Bodmyn we again directed our route towards the northern coaft ; and in our way, paffed through the borough town of Camelford, fo called from there being a ford over the river Camel. It ftands on the banks of that ftream, two hundred and fifty miles from London, and has enjoyed the privilege of fending two members to the Britifh parliament ever fince the latter end of the reign of Edward VI. but was not incorporated till the time of king Charles I. and is now governed by a mayor, eight aldermen, a recorder, and town-clerk. The town is neither large nor populous ; and being an inland place, the trade principally confifts in the refort of the tinners to purchafe provifions, and other neceffaries. It has a market on Friday ; and four annual fairs, viz. Friday after the tenth of March, the twenty-fixth of May, the feventecnth of July, and the fixth of September, chiefly for the fale of cattle. Bofiiney, or, as it Is otherwife called, Tifttagel, was the next town we vifited. It is fituated on two rocki;, one of which iiands in St. George's Channel, and the other on the main land, two hundred and fifty-two miles from London. It has enjoyed the privilege of fendmo-' two members to the Britifn parliament ever fince the latter end of the reign of Edward VI. The two rocks on which the borough town ot Boffiney ftands, were formerly joined together by a draw-bridge ; but that ftructurewas many years fince deftroyed by the fall of a large part of the cliff on the further fide, which has filled up the fpace between the two parts of the town ; but the paffage is extiemcly trcublefome and dan- gerous. The farthermoft point of the cliff, fbrtnerty lurrounded by the fea, is called Blackhead, and is ve y confpicuous at a confiderable diftance at fea. I here is but one landing-place, fituated on the eaft fide of the town, and that very difficult and incommodious. In the reign of queen Elizabeth, when Carew pub- lifhed his Survey of Cornwall, this town was encomp.dlv.-d by a wall, through which there was a paffage, by an iron gate, toafteep and craggy paffage, down the declivity of the rock ; and underneath this rock or ifland, there was a cave, extending through it to the main land, on the other fide of the draw-bridge, and was navigable for boats at full fea ; but the farther end of it is now flopped up by the ftupendous fragments of the rook t*. at have fallen down ; and when the paffage was open, the fub- terranean darknels, and horrid afpect of the cavern, gavft it fo dreadful an appearance, that few ventureu to pafj through it. The place, at prefent, is very inconfrierar ;<.*, being little more than the juins of ancienc building, rnoft of which were of ftonc, and joined together i a cement fo ftrong, that where the ftone itfelr is wafiVi away, this frequently remains. On the top of the promontory are ftill the ruins of what is called Tindagel Caftle : the fortifications ir...i:i partly on the peninfula, and partly on the main land; This caftie was erected by the ancient Britofts; and >'s celebrated for having been the birth-place of toe :■>„... > king Arthur in the fifth century, at which time it was the feat of the dukes of Cornwall, and continued to be one of the caftles of the earls of Cornwall to the time of Richard, king of the R mans, who entertained here his nephew, David prince of Wales. After the death of Richard, and his fon Edmund, all the ancient caftles went to ruin, and this among the reft. The caftle, the manor, and the borough, were fettled by Edward HI. on his fon the Black Prince, when he created him duke of Cornwall, and his heirs, the princes of the blood, for ever ; and accordingly it is become a part of that darchy, and, as fuch, is held by the corporation, which confifts of a mayor and burgeffes. It has no market, but three annual fairs, viz. the fifth of Auguft, the twenty-fecond of November, and the nineteenth of October. At Dcnyhall, about two miles fouth of Bofllney, is a famous flate quarry, which produces the beft flate in Cornwall, and indeed in ail England, perhnps the fineii in the world. The whole quarry is about three hundred yards long, and one hundred wide: the deepeft part from the grafs is about fortv fathoms, and the ftrata lve in the following order. The green fod, one foot; a yellow brown clay, two feet ; then the rock dipping in- wards into the hill, towards the fouth- weft, and preferv- ing that inclination from top to bottom. At firft the rock is in a lax, fhattery ftate, with fhort and frequent ftf- fures, the laminse of unequal thicknefs, and not hori- zontal. Thus the rock continues to the depth of tea or twelve fathoms, all which is of no ufe, and muft be entirelv taken away ; then a firmer brown ftone appears, and which becomes ftill browner in the air : tins is fit for covering houfes, and the largeft fize for flat pavements, never fweating like the cliff flate, which is expolcd to the fea air. This is called the top-ftone, and continues for ten fathoms deep, the ftone improving the lower you go, till you reach the depth of twenty-four fathoms from the grafs. Then rifes what they call the bottom-ftone, of a grey blue colour, and fo clofe a texture, that, oa being ftruck, it will give a clear found, like a piece of metal, The maffes are firft raifed rough from the rock CORN V>v wedges forced into the rock by large fledges of iron, znd contain from five to ten, twelve, or fourteen feet, fuperficial meafure, of ftone. As foon as this mafs is freed from its original bed by one man, another ftone- cuttcr, with a ftrong bread chiflel and mallet, is ready to cleave it into pieces of a proper thinnefs, which is ufually about the eighth of an inch. The fhivers are irregular, from two feet long and one foot wide, downwards, to -one foot fquare, and femctirnes, though feldom, dividing into fuch large flakes, as to make tables and tomb-ftones. In this quarry feveral parties of men work on feparate ftages or floors, fume twelve fathoms from the grafs, fame twenty, and others forty fathoms deep, according to the portion of ground belonging to each party. The fmall fhattery ftone, not fit for covering houfes, ferves to ihoreup the rubbifn, divide the different allotments, and. form the narrow path up and down the quarry. All the flate is carried, with no fmall danger, from the plat where it riles, on men's backs, to a diftant part of the quarry, where they depoiit it, and from whence it is fetched by the perfons who purchafe it. The principal horizontal fifTures which divide the ftrata, run from ten to fifteen feet afunder ; they are, however, nothing more than chinks, or joints, and con- tain no heterogeneous foflil. The flate of this quarry is not fubject to rot or decay, to imbibe water, or fplit with falling; but for lightnefs, and the property of en- during the weather, is generally preferred to any flate in Great Britain. About three miles north-weft of Bofliney, is a fmall market-town called Bofcaftle, originally ^called Bot- teteaux Caftle, from a caftle built here by a family of that name, the ruins of which are ftill to be fcen. It was once a place of confiderable note, but is now greatly decayed : it has, however, ftill a market on Thurfday ; 2nd two annual fairs for the fale of cattle, viz. on the fifth of Auguft, and the twenty-fecond of November. About nine miles north-weft of Bofcaftle, lies Stratton, a fmall market-town, furrounded with large and .beautiful gardens and orchards, which render the fituation ex- tremely pleafant. It ftauds on a fmall river, which falls into the fca at a place called Bude-haven, formerly a confiderable harbour for fhipping ; but the fea has thrown up the fand in fuch a manner, that there are hardly any veftiges of it remaining. Indeed the place that leems to have been anciently the harbour, is now a morafs, and meadow-land, extending from the fea-fide almoft to the town of Stratton, about two miles in length, and nearly the fame in breadth. Through the middle of this morafs runs the river, which, with the tide, forms the prefent creek, and opens into the t fea by a narrow pafiage. Stratton lies two hundred and eleven miles from Lon- don, and has a market pretty well frequented on Satur- days ; and three annual fairs for the fale of cattle, viz. the nineteenth of May, the eighth of November, and the eleventh of December. This place is rendered famous in hiftory by a bloody battle fought in its neighbourhood between the royal and parliament forces, on the fixteenth of May 1643. A few days before this battle, major Chudleigh, with a body of the parliament's forces, made an attempt upon Launcefton ; but not fuccecding, retired to Kingfton. This mifcarriage induced the earl of Stsmford to march into Cornwall, at the head of feven thoufand horfe and foot, and a large train of artillery. He encamped on a hill near Stratton, and detached Sir George Chudleigh, with twelve hundred horfe, to furprize the fheriff of the county at Bodmyn. The Cornifh loyalifts, under lord Mohun and Sir Ralph Hopton, feized this opportunity to attack their infantry during the abfence of their horfe. Accordingly they formed their fmall army into four di- vifions, and attacked the hill in as many different parts. The conteft was remarkably warm; but at laft the royal party prevailed, the four divifions met upon the fummit of the hill, difarmed major general Chudleigh, routed the parliament's forces, and took poffeflion of their camp and artillery ; while the earl of Stamford retired with precipitation to Exeter, and Sir George Chudleigh, at the head of his cavalry, took the fame route from Bod- W ALL. 19 myn, as foon as he was informed of the earl's difaftcr. Sir Edward Hopton was created a peer, with the title of baron Stratton ; but for want of male heirs, it became extinct. From Stratton we continued our journey, near the banks of the Tamar, to the borough town of Laun- ccfton. It is fituated on a rifing ground, on the river Aterey, a little aln.ve its junction with the Tamar, two hundred and eight miles from London. This town In- cludes two ancient boroughs, called Dunevet and New- port. The former has fent members to parliament ever fincethe twenty-third of Edward I. fo that Launcefton is one of the ancient boroughs of this county; but the borough of Newport, which is only a fuburb of Laun- cefton, has enjoyed that privilege no longer than the latter end of the reign of Edward VI. It was incorpo- rated by queen Mary in the year 15C5, and is governed by a mayor, recorder, and eight aldermen. The town is populous, and a confiderable trade is carried on here, and might be greatly improved, if the Aterey was made navigable, which might be done at a very fmall expence. Here is a woollen manufacture, though not in a very flourifiiing condition ; and confiderable quantities of yarn are fpun here, and fold to the agents of the Devonlhire clothiers. The parilh church, which is dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, and whofe image is curioufly cut in the fide of the wall, is an ancient and capacious ftruc- ture. The rcprefentatives in parliament for the county of Cornwall have been chofen here ever fince the reign of Edward I. The winter aflizes are always held here, as were alfo the fummer, till by a late act of parliament, the lord chancellor, or lord keeper, .was empowered to name any other place in the county for holding it; and fince that time, the fummer aflizes have been held at Bodmyn. Here are ftill confiderable remains of an an- cient caftle, which, from its great ftrength, was called Caftle Terrible, and given by Richard I. to his brother, afterwards king John. In one part of this caftle the aflizes are held, and the lower part of it is ufed as the common goal. Here is a free fchool, founded by queen Elizabeth. Befides which, there are two charity-fchools, for the benefit of poor children of both fexes. The girls, befides reading, are taught to few, knit, and make blond-lace, and are allowed whatever they can earn. In the weft fuburb, under the caftle-hill, was a priory for canons of the order of St. Auguftine, founded by William Warlewafte, bifhop of Exeter, and valued, at the general fuppreflion of monafteries, at three hundred and fifty-four pounds and eleven-pence per annum. There are ftill fome remains of this priory. In the thirty-fecond year of Henry VIII. an act of parliament was made for the repair of this, and other decayed Cor- nifh boroughs, by which Launcefton was endowed with, the privilege of a fanctuary, though it does not appear that any claim was ever made of that privilege. Launcefton has two weekly markets, pretty well fre- quented, and held on Thurfdays and Saturdays. It has alfo four annual fairs for the fale of cattle, cloth, and a few hops, viz. Whitfun-Monday, the fifth of July, the feventeenth of November, and the fixth of December. This town gives the title of vifcount to the prince of Wales, of whom the manor is held in fee-farm, it hav- ing been vefted in the eldeft fons of the kings of England ever fince the reign of Richard II. Kellington, which we next vifited, is a borough town about nine miles from Launcefton, and one hundred and ninety-nine from London. It ftands about a mile from the river Lynher, and is much fuperior to the generality of Cornifh boroughs. It confifts of one large ltreet, in which the buildings are elegant. It has a good market- houfe, and a neat church, which is a chapel of eafe to Southill, and was rebuilt by ferjeant Afhton. It has a good trade, and a very confiderable woollen manufacture, which employs a great number of people. It has no charter of incorporation ; but every year, at the court- leet of the lord of the manor, a portreve is chofen ; and at the fame time, the inhabitants, who have lived here twelve months, are admitted burgefles, and thereby qua- lified to vote at the election of members to reprefent the borough in parliament. Kellington 20 CORN Kellinglon has not long enjoyed the privilege of fend- ing members to the Howie of Commons, the power be- ing granted in the twenty-feventh year of queen Eliza- beth's reign. A weekly market is held here on Satur- day ; and three annual fairs for the fale of cattle, viz. the fourth of May, the nineteenth of September, and the twelfth of November. Having thus furveyed the principal places in Cornwall, we proceeded towards Saltafh, intending to crofs the Crinible Paflage into Devonihire; and in our way vifited Pentillie Caftle, the feat of James Tillie, Efq; It is pleafantly fituated on the banks of the Tamar, about mid-way between' Kellington and Saltafh. The ftruc- ture is neat and elegant, and the gardens well laid out; but we mention it particularly, on account of a very re- markable clap ot thunder which happened near this feat, between one and two o'clock on the fecond of Augult 1757. At this time the owner of the above feat, with his neighbours and fervants, were lying a-ground in a boat, on a fand-bank in the river Tamar, not half a mile from his own houfe, waiting the tide to throw a net for falmon, when a fudden peal of thunder broke over their heads. The grafs in an adjacent meadow feemed on fire, and the whole field in a flame, when a ball of fire was obferved to pafs over the hedge, at the top of a very fteep wood which hangs over the Tamar. The ball fell on the boat ; and palling, in a direct line, from the fouth-weft, entered the boat at the bow, and went out at the ftern. Two perfons who fat in the bow of the boat, both felt its effects, and one of them was deaf for fome time. Mr. Tillie, who fat in the middle of the boat, plainly perceived the ball of fire pafs by him, at about three feet diftance : it was about five inches in diameter, fomewhat (harp and pointed at the fore part. He was violently ftruck on the back part of his head by the current of air attending the ball; and the corner of his hat was carried away, as if half of a fmall bullet had been fhot through it. One of Mr. Tillie's fervants was near the ftern of the boat, with his face towards the fouth-weft, but not in the direct line of the fire-ball : he was, however, ftruck fpeechlefs, thrown backwards on the fiftiing-net, and remained infenfible for two or three hours : his face was black, as if the priming of a gun had been blown by accident over it. At the fame time, a tenant of Mr. Tillie was ftanding on the feat at the ftern, with his face to the fouth-weft, and had hardly done fpeaking, when the fire-ball ftruck him on his left temple, and he fell dead into the river. The day, when this remarkable thunder-clap happened, had been fhowery, neither hot nor cold; and the fun fhone, though faintly, about ten minutes before the explofion. As in furveying this county, we paffed in general near the fea, we could not help obferving fome advantages and difadvantages attending the ntuation of this country, and which we fhall now lay before the reader. Remarks on the Sea, and Sea-Coasts of Cornwall. This peculiar fituation is of great utility with regard to the fiihery. A great number of creeks are formed, and thefe, at the proper feafons, are filled with fifti of different kinds : at the fame time, all kinds of foreign merchandize are imported, at very little expence, at many places, no land carriage being neceflary. The native produdts of the country, together with the fifti caught on the coaft, and the produce of the manufactures, are readily exported. The cliff's are fo near the fhore, on both fides of the county, that the draining of mines is, by that means, greatly facilitated. In a word, this maritime fituation procures plenty, and promotes trade and commerce in many particulars utterly unknown to the more inland counties : at the fame time, the many head-lands, jutting out on each fide, neceflarily form deep bays, and confequently augment the diftreffes of feamen in ftormy weather. But what is ftill of worfe confequence, is the fhooting out of the land into the Atlantic ocean, in the form of a wedge, by which means fhips often miftake one channel for another, or are drawn out of their true courfe by the inequality of the tides or currents. This irregularity of the tides is alfo W A L L. increafed near the Land's-End, where the danger is greatelf, by the Scilly illands, which, by rendering the channel narrower, increafe the velocity of the current, and confequently promote a more than ordinary in- draught into both channels. Near the Land's-End, the tide rifes, at new and full moon, from eighteen to twenty-four feet perpendicular ; and in ftormy weather, with the wind at S. V/. it has been known to rife thirty feet. On the nean-tides, it rifes only thirteen feet, and fometimes not above ten. At the .Land's-End, the tide fets inward from the fouth, during the time of flood, near nine hours; but in moll places between Scilly and the Land's-End, only eight- hours ; while the ebb continues only three or four hours when the current fets to the fouthward. This Angula- rity, if not known, and properly regarded, is of dan- gerous confequence. At the fame time, the head-lands are very inaccurately laid down on the maps and charts oi this coalt, and the latitude and longitude of many of them very erroneous. It is therefore no wonder that fo many mips are loft on this coaft, which, befides the many horrid rocks furrounding it, is rendered ftill more dangerous by the irregularity of the tides, and the errors of geographers. We have already obferved, that many of the hai hours in Cornwall, particularly thofe on the north fide of the county, are very liable to be choaked with land. Too much care, therefore, cannot be taken, to prevent mips from throwing out their ballaft in improper places, for otherwife the obftruclions complained of will be greatly increafed, and perhaps rendered too great to be removed. It would have given us pleafure to have remarked, that the attention paid to this particular was equal to its im- portance ; but the contrary appeared in more places than one; and we could not help obferving, that prelent conveniencies were more regarded than future confe- quences. Of the Inhabitants of Cornwall, their Customs, Manners, c3V. Cornwall, efpecially in the weftern parts, where there are many tin and copper mines, and the pilchard fiihery principally carried on, is very populous. The inhabi- tants are of the middle ftature, healthy, ftrong, and active ; the alternate daily ufe of cold and heat, v/et and dry, hardening their bodies equally againft the different extremes of the weather. Till about two centuries ago, they were diftinguifhed by their language, a dialect of that common to all Bri- tain before the invafion of the Saxons. It is fo different from either the Wellh or Armoric, two other dialects of the fame language, that they cannot converfe with one another. The Cornifti is reckoned lefs gut'eral than the Welfh, and, on that account, more plealing to the ear. But this ancient language is now laid afide, and the Englifh ufed in every part of the county. Here are ftill fome remains of the Druid fuperftition, particularly that of making bonefires in every village on the eves of St. John the Baptift and St. Peter. They alfo deck their doers and porches on the firft of May with green boughs of fycamore and hawthorn, and plant the flumps of trees before their houfes. Among their general cuftoms, the manly exercifes of wreftling and hurling muft not be forgotten. The former is too well known to need any defcription ; but the latter being pecwliar to Cornwall, a more particular account of it will be neceflary. Hurling is a trial of fkill between two parties, each confifting of an equal number, and matched againft each other in pairs. Two bufhes are placed in the ground, at a confiderable diftance from one another, called goals, which one pair of each party is allotted to guard ; the reft draw into the middle between the two goals, carry- ing with them the ball, which is a round piece of wood, about three inches diameter, plated over with filver : fome indifferent perfon throws the ball up, and whoever can catch it, and carry it through his adverfary's goal, wins the game. But as foon as it is caught, the pair of the oppofite party, matched againft the pair, one of which CORN which has caught the 1 ball, immediately endeavours to flop him, or trip up his heels. They are not at liberty to ftrikc him, but he is allowed to keep them off by thrufting them in the breaft with his hit clenched, which they call butting. If he can outrun; or keep off thofe who affail him in his way s he has ftill thofe to contend with who keep the goal. If, in wreftling, any part of the player's body who has the ball touches the ground, or if, being overpowered* he cries Hold, he mult throw up the ball, which being again caught, the fame conteft is repeated till the game is over, which feldom ends but with the day ; for he that has the ball being always op- pofed by two* it is feldom carried through the goal : that fide, however, which gave the moft falls, kept the ball longeft, and preffed the adverfary neareft to his goal, carries off the honours of the day. There are no ftated times for the diverfions of wreft> ling and hurling, but they are generally part of their feltival entertainments. Every parifh has its annual feaft, inftituted in memory of the dedication of the pa- rochial church. The feaft is held on the Sunday ; but on the Monday and Tuefday following, all bufinefs is fufpended, and the young men sfiemble to hurl, or wreftle, or bothj in fome part of their parifh of the moft public refort. The tinners hold fome holidays peculiar to themfelves, particularly the Thurfday one clear week before Chrift- mas, and which they call White Thurfday, in com- memoration of black tin being firft melted and converted into white tin on that day; for till that time, they ufed to export into other parts the tin unmelted, or carry it to the engroffer's melting-houfe, however diftant from the mines. The tinners alfo keep the fifth of March, in honour of St. Piran, who is faid to have given their anceftors fome very profitable inftructions relating to the manu- facture of tin. The inhabitants of Cornwall are remarkably civil and courteous to ftrangers, and the old Englifh hofpitality is ftill kept up by the gentry of this county; but at the fame time, they are reckoned litigious, owing partly to their own difpofition, and partly to the refult of their polity, and the various branches of trade to which their mining and fifhery unavoidably expofe them. The lower clafs are alfo greatly addidted to drinking, the fource of many diforders among laborious people. They are alfo too much engaged in fmugglingj and exchange their bullion and wool for tea and brandy. Curious Plants in Cornwall. The fir-leaved heath, with many flowers, Erica foliis curios multifora, J. B. It grows plentifully near the Lizard, and on Gunhilly downs. Blue, fweet-fmelling toad-flax, Linaria odoratd monf- peffulana, J. B. found along the hedges near Penryn. Wood Sage, Salvia agreftis,feu fcorodonia, Ger. grow- ing near St. Michael's Mount. Water Mint of a fpicy fmell, Mentha arvenfis verticil- lata folio rotundiore odore dromatico, Ray. This is a fcarce plant, but found under the hedges near St. Berian. Roman Nettle, Urtica pilutifera femine t/iagno lini, feu Urtica Romana, Ray, found in a fhady ditch at Velinvran. Sheep's Sorrel, Lapathum acetofum, rcpens, lanceolatum, Ray, gathered on the north fide of St. Michael's Mount. Hairy Kidney-v/ort, Cotyledon hirfuta^ Ray, found at Caftle Treryn, in the parifh of St. Levin. Sun-dew, Ros folis, Ray, fo called from a fpeck of water which refts in the middle of the leaf, even in the dryeft day. It grows in many (hallow marfhy grounds in this county, and is very prejudicial to the fheep. Mr. Ray obferves, that it is of a fiery nature, and that the leaf, applied to the fkin, raifes an ulcer ; that it is ac- counted hurtful to the fheep, and by the farmers fometimes called the red-rot. This pernicious quality, however, is not owing to the nature of the plant, but to an infect or worm, which feeding on the herb, lays its eggs on the leaf, fixing them there by fome poifonous gum. The eggs are fwelled with the flowers and leaf; and eluding the juices of the ftomach, pafs into the chyle, and cireu- 3 w a L L ii late with the blood, till they are at laft detained in the capillary vefiels of the liver, where, meeting with the neceffary degree of heat and moifture, they fecundate} the animalcules grow, and feed Upon the liver, till it cati no longer perform its necefiary functions, and then the creature dies. The fheep are fond of this herb, and therefore the fhepherd takes all poflible care that they may not come near it. Creeping^ round-leaved, baftard Chickweed, Alfine^ fpuria, puflla^ ripens, foliis faxefragce aurea, Ray. This plant is peculiar to Cornwall and Devonftiire, but found more plentifully in the former. Round-leaved marfli St. Peter's wort, Afcyrv.m fupinum palufire. villofum, Ray, found near the borders of fprings, moftly near the Land's-End. Tender ivy-leaved bell-flower, Campanula paluftre cynt- balarits foliis, Ger. found on moift and watery banks. The leaft marfh-centaurv, Centaurium palufire luteum minimum, Ray, found on a rotten, boggy ground, be- tween St. Ives and Penzance. Butterwort, with a fmall flefh-coloured flower, Pin- guicula fore rninore cameo, Ray, found in moift meadows and marfhy grounds, efpecially about Kilkhampton. Great yellow marfh eyebright, Euphrafalutea latifolia paluftris, Ray, found in foggy places near the Land's- End. Verticillate knot-grafs w/th thyme-like leaves, Poly- gonum ferpyllifolium vcrticillatum, Ray, found in watery places between St. Columb and St. Michael's, about Penzance, and near the Land's-End. Samphire, Crithmum, feu Fceniculum marinum^ Ray $ found in plenty upon molt of the cliffs near the Land's- End. In the iflands of Scilly it is found in great quan- tities, and more luxuriant than in any other part of the kingdom. Marfh afparagus, or fperage, Afpardgus paluftris, Ger* found on the cliffs at the Lizard Point. Smooth-leaved rupture-wort, Herniaria glabra, Ray 3 found in plenty near the Lizard. Leffer autumnal ftar-hyacinth, Hyacinthus autumnalis minor, Ger. found on the Lizard Point. Rofe-wort, Telephium-rofeum, Mor. gathered among the rocks at the Land's-End. Eryngo, or fea-holly, Eryngium marinum, Ray, found in great plenty on the fands, above the high-water mark, between Penzance and Market Jew. Small fea-crane's-bill, Geranium pufillum maritimum fupinum betonica folio, Ray, found in fandy places near Penzance. Sea cud-weed, or cotton-weed, Gnaphalium maritinum^ Ray; found on the gravelly fliore between Penzance and St. Michael's Mount. The Englifh fea-peafe, Pifum maritimum Anglicumt Ray On the beach near Penzance. Antique Co ins found in Cornwall. Among the ancient coins found in Cornwall, were a considerable number of pure gold, dug up in the month of June 1740, in Karnbre-hill, near Redruth. Some were worn, and very much fmoothed, not by age, or lying in the earth, but by ufe, they having no allay to harden and fecure them from wearing. There were no letters difcoverable on any of them ; fome were plain or flat, and others a little concave on one fide, and convex on the other : the largeft weighed no more than four penny-weights and fourteen grains, and therefore their intrirific value was about eighteen fhillings and four- pence. From the reverfe of thefe coins, which was ge- nerally marked with the imprcffion of a horfc, fome imagined that they were Phoenician, becaufe a few co- lonies of that people were faid to have chofen a horfe for their fymbol. The place where the coins were found feemed to countenance this opinion, becaufe Cornwall^ fince the firft mention of Britain in hifiory, was famous for its tin, which the Phoenicians, from their fuperior fkill in navigation, engrafted to themfelves for many years. But there are coins found in Britain, produced by antiquaries, which are inferibed with Britifh names,) and are. with the greateft probability, believed to have G been CORNWALL. been the coins of princes c'otempcrary even with Julius Ceiar, on the rcverfc of which is the figure of a horfe. ]t \b, moreover, obferved, that the coins found at Karn- bre are too rude, and the defigns too mean, to have been ftrudk cichcr by Phoenician, Roman, or Grecian artifts ; that coins of all the different forts found at Karnbre, have been di (covered in different places in Britain, and in no other country ; and that thofe coins which are not inLribed, aie probably older than coins of the fame na- tion which are inlcribed. From all thefe circumftances it is leafonably concluded, that the coins found at Karnbre are originally Britifh, and older than the in- vafion of this iiland by the B.omans. In the ii Je of the d\w.<~ hill of Karnbre were dug up, in the year 1744, leveral hollow inftruments of brafs of different fizes, called celts, together with a great many Roman coins. A vaft number of celts have been found, at different times, in different parts of Europe, particu- Iaily in Britain. Antiquaries are of various opinions with regard to the defign and ufe of thefe inftruments, though they are generally allowed to be of Roman ori- ginal. Perhaps they were originally Britifh implements of war, ufeu for the heads of fpears, javelins, and ar- rows. In the month of July 1749, near a pint of Roman copper-coins were dug up at the remains of the Roman camp on Karubrc-hili ; and the year before, about a quart of the fame coin was found near the fame place"; Roman coins have alfo been ir»und in and near the ancient tin-mines in this county, which muff have been left there, cither by the Roman miners, or by ihs officers appointed by that people for fuperintending and guarding the mines, which were probably worked by the natives. At Caftle Treryn, ne3r the Land's-End, was found a brafs pot full of Roman money: and, in a tenement called Condora, at Helford-haven, not far from Helffon, twenty-four gallons of Roman brafs money were dug up in the year 173C. All thefe coins v/ere of the age of the emperor Conftantine and his family, and had either the heads of thofe emperors, or were ftruclc either at the city of Rome, or that of Conftantinopie. On the other fide of Heiford-haven, oppofite to Con- dora, forty Roman crowns were found. At Mopas, near Truro, twenty pounds weight of Roman brafs coin were dug up not many years ago ; and at Trewardreth, near Fowey, many Roman coins have been found. We (hall conclude our account of Cornwall with ob- ferving, that it lies in the diocele, of Exeter, and pio- vince of Canterbury ; and fends no lefs than forty-fouc members to parliament, viz. two for the county, and two for each of the boroughs, which are twenty-one in number, as may be gathered ' from the foregoing ac- counts, where they are all defcribed. DEVON- I 23 ] DEVONSHIRE. DEVONSHIRE, or the county of Devon, is bounded on the fouth by the Englifh channel, on the north by Briftol channel, on the weft by Cornwall, and on the eaft by the counties of Somerfet and Dorfet. It is about fixty-nine mile:* in length from north to fouth, fixty-fix in breadth from eaft to weft, and two hundred miles in circumference. According to Temple- man's furvey, it contains about two thoufand three hundred and eighty-five fquare miles, or one million nine hundred and twenty thoufand acres ; in which are thirty- three hundreds, twelve boroughs that fend members to parliament, forty market-towns, three hundred and ninety-four parifhes, one thoufand feven hundred and thirty-three villages, and near fifty-feven thoufand houfes. The center of this county is about one hundred and fifty-three miles weft fouth-weft from London. RIVERS. This county is watered by a great number of rivers, the principal of which are the Ex, theTamar, the Tou- ridge, the Taw, the Oke, the Dart, the Plym, the Otter, and the Axe. The Ex riles in a barren, boggy tract of land, called Exmore, in Somerfetlhire ; and after being joined by fe- veral little ftreams, runs by Tiverton, where there is a Hone bridge over the river? About nine miles below Ti- verton, it is joined by a pretty large ftream called the Colombton ; and about two miles lower, by another ftream formed by the junction of the Horton andCredy. With thefe additions, it wafhes the walls of Exeter. At Topfham, above four miles below Exeter, it receives another confiderable addition to its ftream; and two miles farther, it is joined by the Ken ; and falls into the ocean at Exmouth, after a courfe of about forty miles. Ships of great burden go up to Topfham, from whence vellels of one hundred and fifty tons are conveyed to the quay at Exeter, by means of an artificial canal, which will be more particularly defcribed in our remarks on the inland navigation of Devonfliire. The Tamar has been already defcribed in our account ©f Cornwall* and therefore need not be repeated here. We muft, however, cbfen'e, that about fixteen miles above Saltafh, the Tamar receives the waters of the Lid, a fmall river rifing a few miles above Lidford in Devon- fliire. This little river is particularly remarkable for its courfe, which is bordered on both fides with prodi- gious rocks and precipices ; and for making itfelf fo deep a fall into the ground, by its inceflant friction againft the bottom, that the water is fcarcely feen from J, id- ford-bridge, or even the murmurs of it heard. The bridge is nearly level with the road ; but the furfacc of the water is almoft feventy feet perpendicular below it ; fo that it can hardly be feen by a fpectator from the bridge. About a mile above Lidford bridge is another pheno- menon ftill more curious ; we mean, a cataract, or fali of water, of more than one hundred feet in height. The water comes from a mill at fome diftance; and, after a courfe, upon a defcent, of near an hundred feet from the leve; of the mill, it arrives at the brink of the precipice, from whence it falls, in a beautiful manner, on a pro- jecting part of the cliff", by which it is divided, and falls from thence, in a wider cataract, to the bottom, where, ftriking the bottom with great violence, acquired by fo prodigious a fall, it forms a deep balbn, covered with foam, in the ground ; thence it runs, in an eafy current, to the river Lid, and pafles under the bridge, In the deep channel already defcribed. This remarkable fall of water fills the atmofphere with fuch a cloud of aqueous particles, that the ipe'Jta- tor, on his approach towards the bafon, finds himfelf involved, as it were, in a mift ; and, at the fame time, the air is fo violently agitated by the fall, that it is not eafy to approach or ftand near the rim of the bafon. The Touridge rifes at the foot of a hill near Wowlef- worthy, about four miles from Hartland Point ; whence it runs, in a fouth-eaft courfe, to a village called Iddlefly, where it is joined by the Oke; after which it is joined by feveral brooks^ and pafi'es, in a large ftream, by Bid- deford, and falls into Brittol Channel, about two miles below Appledore, where it is joined by the Taw. Ships of very large burden come up to Biddeford, and the river might eafily be made navigable many miles higher, as we fhall obferve in another place. The Taw rifes near Throwley, in the hundred of Woonford ; whence it runs, in a northern direction, to a fmall village called Nummet, where it is joined by a pretty confiderable ftream. Three miles below Nummet, it is joined by another brook ; and, two miles farther, receives the waters of the Maul. With thefe additions, it becomes a confiderable river; and about nine miles below, pafTes by Barnftaple, where it is joined by an- other fmall river ; and about five miles below, falls into the Taw, as we have already obferved in defcribing that river. Ships of fmall burden only go up to Barnftaple, though the river is very wide, but fo greatly choaksd with fands, that there is not water enough for large fhips. About two miles above Barnftaple, near a fmall village called North Taunton, is a pit of a large circumference, ten feet deep, from whence there fometimes iftues a little bourne or brook, which continues to run for a few days, and then ceafes. Many of the inhabitants, who are fu- perftitioufly inclined, imagine, that the flowing of this bourne is the forerunner cf ibme public& fatal misfortune. The river Dart rifes at the foot of Dartmore hills, fituated in a barren part of the county called Dart-moor, not far from Gidleigh ; and, after a courfe of about four- teen miles, is joined by two confiderable ftreams ; whence it continues its courfe, about five miles, to Totnefs, where it is navigable for fmall vefl'els. About three miles below Totnefs, it is joined by the Hareborn ; and, feven miles farther, falls into the fea at Dartmouth-haven. The Plym rifes in the parifti of Shepiftor, and, after a courfe of about feven miles, is joined by a fmall ftream near Plymton, where it becomes navigable for fmall vef- fels; and, two miles below, falls into Plymouth Sound, a little below Plymouth. The Otter rifes at the foot of a range of hills on the borders of Dorfeiftiire, and, after a courfe of about eight miles, is joined by a confiderable ftream at St. Mary's, Ottery ; eight miles below which, it falls into the fea near Otterton. The Ax rifes near Chiddington in Dorfetihire, and enters this county at Ford ; and, five miles below, is joined by a pretty large ftream at Axminfter, filling into the Britifh channel at Axmouth, five miles bjlow Ax- minfter. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Devonfliire. Moft of the rivers are navigable fome diftance from their mouths ; but there is only one, viz. the river Ex, which has been rendered fo by art. We fhall theiefore defcribe its navigation, before we confider the others, which owe this convenience to nature. The princip.il fiream of the river Ex was formerly na- vigable to the walls of Exeter ; but, upon a difference between the mavor and the eail of Devon, on a very trifling occafion, namely, which of their purveyors ftjould be firft f.ncd with a diih of fifti in the market, the 4 24 DEVON earl built weirs with timber, fand, &c. which choaked up the river, and entirely ruined the navigation ; fo that fhips could come up no higher than Topfham, where they took in their lading, and where the goods configned to Exeter were landed, and conveyed from thence, by land carriage, or in fmall boats, towed up by horfes, againft the current of the rivei. Upon this the citizens applied to the Court of Chancery for relief, and, at laft, obtained a decree in their favour; but the earl's obftirtaCy was fo great, that even this decree was never executed. To remedy this inconveniency, the citizens obtained an a£t of parliament for cutting a navigable canal from Topfham to Exeter, and the work was finifhed about the beginning of the prefent century. By this canal fhips of large burden go up to the quay at Exeter, where they load or unload with the greateft eafe and fafety. At the mouth of this canal are large flood-gates, which admit the tide of flood ; but as foon as the water begins to fall, the gates fhut of themfelves, and keep up a body of water fufficient lor the purpofes of navigation, about the diftance of two miles, the canal being fo far on a level. The mips, therefore, enter thefe flood-gates with the tide, and go up the canal to the height above-men- tioned, a little below which there is a fecond pair of flood-gates, which are fhut as foon as the veffels are paffed through them, and a third pair of flood-gates, opened about two hundred yards higher up. By the fhutting of thefe gates, and opening the others, the wa- ter is raifed about twelve feet, equal to the whole fall of the canal between Exeter and Topfham. The water being now on a level, the veffels pafs over the riflng ground, about two miles farther, to the head of the works, .where there is another pair of flood-gates a-crofs the river, whereby the wafte water, or that not wanted for the purpofes of navigation, paffes over a ftrong ftone weir, into its natural channel. By this means a ftag- nant pool of water is formed above the upper flood-gates, where the veffels lie at their moorings, and load or unload at a quay adjoining to the city walls. We have already obferved, that there is no other in- land navigation, either wholly made or affifted by art, in this county ; but the mouths of many of the rivers are navigable, and fome of them to a confiderable diftance. The Ax is navigable only for fmall veffels to Ax- mouth bridge, but might be rendered navigable for barges to Axminfter, which would be very advantageous to this part of the county, if the bay at the mouth of the river afforded the fhelter to fhips it did formerly ; but having been neglecfed during the time the monks of Sion-Abbey were in poffeflion of the place, it was choak- ed up with fand, and in that condition it ft i 11 continues. About mid-way between the Ax and Otter, is the fmall river Side, which rifes at the foot of a hill about four miles from the Englifh channel, and falls into the lea at a place called Sidmouth. The mouth of this river was formerly a confiderable port, but being neglected by the monks of Sion Abbey, to whom it belonged, the harbour was choaked up with fand, fo that there is now only water fufficient for veffels of fmall burden. The Otter is navigable, for fmall veffels, to Otterton bridge ; and the navigation might eafily be continued to Ottery St. Mary's. It muft, however, be obferved, that as the water is fhallow at the mouth of the river, and obftrucfed with fand-banks, fhips of any large burden could not enter the river. We have already obferved, that the Ex is navigable, for veffels of confiderable burden, to Topfham. The paflage, however, at the mouth of the river, is but narrow, having rocks on the ealt fide, and fands on the weft ; nor is the water on the bar more than fix or feven feet deep at low water, but the tide rifes fourteen or fifteen feet, fo that it is deep enough at high water. When fhips are within the bar, they may ride afloat at a place called Star Crofs, about a mile and a half from the river's mouth ; but thofe that go up to Topfham, lie a-ground on the ooze at low water. About five miles farther to the S. W. is a fmall haven called Tinmouth, at the mouth of the river Tin. There is not, however, above three feet water in this haven at low water ; fo that vcfiels of any burden muft go in with SHIRE. the tide, which flows up almoft as high as Comb»briJge"j within two miles of Newtonbufliel. The river Dart is navigable from its mouth to the* bridge at Totnefs, where the water rifes ten or twelve feet on a fpring*tide. Ships f)f very large burden go up to Dartmouth, which ftands about a mile above the en- trance. It is, however, very dangerous going into Dart- mouth-haven, unlefs the wind be very fair 5 for the en- trance is narrow, and the land, on each fide of the paf- fage, very high, which occafion ftrong gufts of wind, when it blows from either of the fhores* About four miles to the weftward of the Start Point, is a fmall harbour called Salcomb, formed at the mouth of a river of the fame name. It is now navigable for veflels about three miles above its mouth, and fmall boats go up to Kingfbridge, near to Dadbrook. The entrance of the harbour of Salcomb is between two points of land, called the Praule and the Bolt-head. There is a bar of fand acrofs the mouth of the haven, on which the water is only eleven feet deep at low water, but with- in the bar there is at leaft three fathoms. On the weft fide, about half a mile within the bar, is an old caftle, with a ledge of rocks before it ; and direcfly oppofite, on the other iide, is a remarkable rock called the Mew- ftone, which is covered at high water, but the top be- comes dry about a quarter ebb. The river Plym is navigable for boats about two miles from its mouth, within half a mile of Plymton. The harbours of any confequence, on the north fide of this county, are Biddeford, Barnftaple, and Uford- comb. The harbour of Biddeford is at the mouth of the Touridge and Taw. Before the mouth of the harbour is a good road, called Biddeford Sound, or Barnftaple Bay. There is a bar at the mouth of the harbour, but water fufficient for a fhip of three hundred tons burden at half flood. A little above Appledore, where there is a fafe road for fhips, the harbour divides into two branches, the weftern ftream going to Biddeford, and the eaftermoft to Barnftaple : the former is navigable, for fhips of three hundred tons burden, to the very quay at Biddeford, and for fmall craft, to Torrington Bridge ; but the latter is almoft choaked up with fand, fo that fmall veffels only can come up to Barnftaple. Ufordcomb lies about twelve miles to the eaftward of Barnftaple bay. There is a good road before the har- bour, and water within the haven fufficient for fhips of confiderable burden. AIR and SOIL. The air of this county is fharp upon the hills, and mild in the vallies, but in general healthy and pleafant. The foil is very various. About Taviftock, Briddeftow, Oakhampton, Holfvvorthy, Biddeford, Great Torring- ton, Chulmleigh, Chagford, Moreton, Hampfted, and all round the borders of Dartmore, as well as that large foreft itfelf, it is very moory and fenny, and naturally barren, in fome places producing only a dwarf kind of furze of little or no value. In other places, nothing grows but rufhes, or a coarfe four kind of pafturage, which the cattle will not eat, and therefore dies up, and withers into a fedge. The earth here is generally of a: ft iff" clay, through which the water cannot find a paflage: this renders the ground very unhealthy to cattle, efpeci- ally fheep, which, in thefe parts, are of a fmall kind, and very fubjecf to the rot, efpecially in wet feafens, by which great numbers are deftroyed. The principal, indeed the only profitable return the hufbandman can make from thefe lands, is by breeding black cattle, for which they are very well adapted ; and here many of thofe fine oxen brought up to Smithfield by the drovers of Somerletfhire, are bred, and afterwards fattened in the fine paftures between Bridge water and Wells. The northern parts cf the county are of a very diffe- rent nature from the former : they conlift, in general, of a dry, healthy foil, efpecially about Ufordcomb, South- moulton, and all along the borders of the foreft of Ex- more. Thefe downs do not indeed afford luxuriant paf- ture, D E V O * ture, but are very good grazing lands for fheep, and, by the arts of the hufbandman, produce tolerable crops of corn ; we fay tolerable, becaufe they are by no means comparable to thofe produced in the eaftern and middle parts of the county. In the latter, the foil is ftrong, mixed, and of a deep red colour, intermixed with loam, and produce very large crops of corn, and the beft peafe in England. Nor are thefe parts lefs valuable for their paftures, where great numbers of fheep and black cattle are fattened. To the northward of Dartmouth are feveral villages, called the South-hams, where they make fuch large quantities of cyder, that a great number of the tenants pay their rents with the profits arifing from that commo- dity only. The fea-captains find it very ferviceable in their fhips, and therefore take great quantities of it ; for it has been found by experience, that one ton of cyder will go as far, if not farther, than three tons of beer; and, at the fame time, is much more wholefome, efpeci- ally in hot climates. We were affured, that ten thou- fand hogfheads of cyder have, one year with another, been exported from this county to London, for many years paft. The reader mull not, from what has been faid, ima- gine, that the lands, in any part of the county, are all of the fame kind, and equally valuable : downs, fens, rocks, and woods, are interfperfed among the belt lands ; as there are alfo fome good arable and pafture grounds among the moil: defolate and barren. The above general defcription, therefore, is intended to be taken in this li- mited fenfe. Husbandry of Devonfhire. The hufbandmen of Devonfhire are equal to any in the kingdom for care and attention, and take every me- thod in their power to affift nature, and, confequently, to improve the profits of their farms. Among other improvements which the art of hufoandry owes to the farmers of this county, is that of cutting up the turf, which is afterwards dried and burnt, and the afhes fpread over the furface of the foil, by way of ma- nure. This method of improving land, generally called Den- lhering, or Devonfhering, from its being firft pradtifed in this county, is performed in the following manner : When it is intended to break up any piece of wafte land, the work mould be begun in the winter, in order to get rid of the three principal obftacles, namely, water, ftones, and fuch large roots as the paring-mattock, or, as it is called in Devonfhire, the beating-ax, may not be itrong enough to cut afunder. About the middle of March, therefore, the paring the ground mould be be- gun, by a number of labourers, proportioned to the quantity of land intended to be pared. The turfs cut up mould be about a foot and a half long, a foot broad, and four inches thick. By cutting the turfs of this thicknefs, the matted roots of all the trafh growing on the furface, will be inevitably deftroyed ; a circumftance abfolutely neceffary, for otherways they ■will make frefh fhoots, injure the corn, and, in time, choak it entirely. If the weather be dry, thefe turfs may be placed a 3ittle flanting, by refting one of the ends of one turf upon the extremity of the other ; but if the weather fhould not be favourable, they muft be piled up as faft as cut, or even placed upon their ends, two and two, meeting at the top, and being farther afunder at the bottom, like the roof of a houfe. When the feafoh is not too wet, the turfs will gene- rally dry fufficiently in about three weeks, even without being turned ; but in rainy years, they require a longer time, and muft be turned more than once, to prevent their ftriking out new roots and moots, which would hinder them from burnirig. When the turfs are fufficiently dry, they muft be piled up in round heaps, about ten feet high, and of the fame diameter at bottom. The heath)'', or graffy fide of the turf, muft be placed downwards, and the earthy fide up- wards. A fmall hole muft be left in the infide, in order 3 N S H 1 & E. - 4 - 5 to form a kind of chimney, the Ofrejimg of which mould face the wind. As foon as the heaps are finiflied, they fhould be fet on fire, by putting a little lighted ftraw or heath, with an iron fork, into the chimnies of the fur- naces. The dry heath, grafs, and roots, will catch in- ftantly, and, in a few moments, the fire will become fo violent, as hardly to be approached. It may then be left, after taking proper precaution to prevent it from extending farther than intended, efpecially if it be near any hedge, wood, or heath, where it might do great mifchief. When the turfs are thoroughly burnt, the allies are fpread over the field, which is then fown in the common manner, and generally produces a large crop. We have already defcribed the method of ufing ore- weed and fea-fand as manures, in our account of the Cornifh hufbandry ; and fhall now add, that the fame productions are alio ufed in Devonfhire; but they have improved the practice in fome parts of the county, by making a compoft dunghill with ore-weed, fea-fand, lime, and the dung of animals ; thefe various fubftances, by being blended together, make an excellent and very profitable manure. Great part of the ground in the fouth-hams lies on a ftratum of marble, which they break up and burn into lime, and drefs their lands with it to great advantage. Sometimes the lime is previoufly mixed with mould, and afterwards fpread upon the land. They alfo make ufe of marie, which is found in various parts of the county, for improving their farms, and are never difappointed in their expectations. The grains chiefly fown here, are wheat, barley, peafe, &c. of all which there are large crops in feveral parts of the county. The turnip hufbandry is alfo introduced here, in feveral diftricts, with great advantage. Nor are the artificial paftures forgotten ; lucern, burnet, the dif- ferent fpecies of clover, and other plants of that kind, being cultivated by fome of the moft intelligent hufband- men. , _■ Of the Mines <7/"Devonfhire. Devonfhire was formerly famous for its mines of tin; and four ftannary towns were appointed, viz. Afhburton, Taviftock, Plympton, and Chagford, all lying near the foreft of Dartmore. In thofe towns the tin was coined, and the courts of the four jurifdictions were held. The ftannators, who compofed the parliament, like that ftili held in Cornwall, were chofen out of the principal inha- bitants of thefe diftricts. But, by divers charters granted to the tinners by Edward I. and others, the parliament, or fupreme court of the ftannaries, was ordered to be held upon Crocken Torr, a famous hill fituated in the middle of Dartmore, and far from any houfe. In this defolate place, where no refrefhment can be purchafed, deftitute of any fhelter from the weather, nor any feat, except a bench of moor-ftone, the ftannators affembled, in obedience to a writ iffued for that purpofe by the lord warden, who prefides in the affembly ; and this place of meeting was called the Parliament-houfe. It was, how- ever, the cuftom, as foon as the ftannators, or members of this parliament, were met together upon Crocken Torr, to adjourn the court to one of the ftannary towns, generally Taviftock, where the bufinefs- was difpatched. Here the price of tin was fixed, differences in relation to the works adjufted, and acts made for the regulation of every particular relating to the tinners and the mines. A large volume of the acts of this parliament was printed in the time of queen Elizabeth, when the earl of Bedford was lord warden. In the time of king John, thefe mines produced fuch quantities of tin, that the coinage of it was let at one hundred pounds a year, when that of Cornwall was farmed at fixty-fix pounds, eighteen {hillings and four- pence. At prefent, the mines are greatly neglected ; and though there are ffill fome works here, yet the ad- vantages arifing from them all, except two or three lately opened, are very trifling and infignificant. Here were alfo formerly mines of filver, which proved very advantageous to the crown of England ; for we find, not only feveral giants made by Edward III. and other H king-, 26 DEVONSHIRE. kings for carrying them on, with a rcfervation of the tentiis to the church ; but it even appears from the re- cords of the Exchequer, that very large fums have been railed from the working of them: for in the year 1293, one William de Wymondham was overfeer of thefe works ; and, by his art and induftry, three hundred and feventy pounds weight of fine filver were refined out of the lead ore ; and this fum king Edward I. gave as a portion, with his daughter Eleanor, to the count de Barre. The next year, five hundred and twenty-one pounds weight of filver were extracted, and fent to London, in order to be coined there ; and the fucceeding year, in which the Derbyfhire miners were fent for to aflat the above-mentioned William de Wymondham, he fent feven hundred pounds weight more to the mint, for the lame purpofe. After this, more mines were difcovered, and proper miners lent for again out of Wales, and from the Peak of Dciby ; but what advantages accrued from them, cannot now be known. In the reign of queen Elizabeth, the mines were again worked by one Sir Beavis Bulmer, a curious refiner, who extracted large quantities of filver from the ore, and out of which he ordered two cups, very rich and capacious, to be made : one of thefe cups was prefented to William Bourchier, then earl of Bath, and lord warden of the ftannaries ; and the other to Richard Martin, at that time lord mayor of London. We have no account of the weight of the former, but the latter weighed one hundred and thirty-feven ounces. Some gold mines have alfo been difcovered in Devon- fhire, but, for fome fubftantial reafons, have never been worked to advantage. There are alio mines of lead, iron, and copper ; but the firft only are worked. Trade and Manufactures. There are in Devcnfhire very large manufactures of keriies, ferges, long-ells, {balloons, narrow-cloths, and blond-lace ; in which, and in corn, cattle, meal, and fea-filh, particularly herrings and pilchards, the inhabi- tants carry on a very large trade. They have alfo {hips in fome of their ports, with which they trade to Portugal, Spain, the Welt Indies, and other colonies of America. City, Burrough, and Market Towns. The firft place we vifited in Devonlhire, was Plymouth, where we landed from Saltalh in Cornwall. Plymouth is fituated at the mouth of the river Plym, which, a little below the town, falls into a bay of the Englilh channel, called Plymouth Sound. The town is fituated on a point of land, having the river Plym, the mouth of which is called Catwater, on one fide ; and the Tamar, here called Hamouze, on the other, about two hundred and twenty miles from London. It was origi- nally only a fmall filhing-town, but, by its fine fituation, and the goodnefs of its harbour, it is now one of the largeft places in the county, and fends two members to parliament. It is governed by a mayor, twelve alder- men, twenty-four common council-men, a recorder, and a town clerk. The election of the mayor, which is annual, as in other corporations, is carried on in the following manner : the mayor in office, and the alder- men, chufe two perfons, and the common council chufe two ethers. Thefe four perfons, whom they call Alfu- rers, appoint a jury of thirty-fix perfons, and by this jury the mayor is elected. The officiating mayor, his j 1 -decefior, and the two fenior aldermen, arejuitices of the peace. Oppofite to the town, and in the middle of the har- bour, is a fmall ifland , called St. Nicholas. It is fur- rounded with rocks, and has a ftrong callle on it, which commands both the entrance into Hamouze, and a!fo that into Cutwater. On the oppofite fhore, over againlt St. Nichols's ifland, is the citadel of Plymouth, erected in the reign of king Charles II. The walls of this cita- del are three quarters of a mile in circumference, and. for- tified with five regular baflions, on which, and the cur- tains, are mounted one hundred and iixty-five largepieces of ordnance. The citudel is furrounded with a deep ditch, out of which all thefione ufed in the works was^dug. There is alio a battery of large cannon, lying almoll level with the water's edge, and called the Old Fort. Thefe forti- fications, with another fort near the water, on Mount Edgcombe, form a fufiicient fecurity for the fhips, either in Hamouze or Catwater. The town of Plymouth {lands above the citadel, on a gentle declivity of the fame rock, Hoping towards Cat- water, where there is a kind of natural mole, or haven, called Sutton-pool, from the ancient name of the town ; with a quay, and other conveniencies for loading and un- loading (hips : nor is the trade carried on here inconli- derable. Here are two handfomc large and well built parifh churches, one dedicated to St. Andrew, and the other to the memory of king Charles I. Thefe churches, thou" li there are feveral meeting-houfes in the town, have each a very large cure of fouls. The profits of the pews go to the poor. Here is a charity fchool, four hofpitals, and a work-houfe ; in all which above one hundred children are cloathed, fed, and taught. Colonel Jory gave a charity to one of the hofpitals, for the maintenance of twelve poor widows. He alfo gave a mace,- worth one hundred and twenty pounds, to be carried before the mayor; and fix good bells to Charles's church, valued at five hundred pounds. Till queen Elizabeth's reign, the town of Plymouth fullered greatly for want of frefh water; but has been, fince that time, well ftipplied by a fpring feven miles diftant, the water of which was conveyed hither at the expence of the famous Sir -Francis Drake, a native of Plymouth. This town has a good pilchard fifhery, a cuftom- houfe, and carries on a very confiderable trade to the Streights and Weft Indies. About two miles up Hamouze, or mouth of the Ta- mar, are two docks, one wet and the other dry ; with a bafon, two hundred feet fquare, hewn out of a mine of Hate, and lined with Portland ftone. The dry rock is formed after the model of a firft rate man of war, and the wet dock will contain five firft rates. The docks and bafon were conftructed in the reign of king WiU liam III. Here are alfo magazines of all kinds of naval ftores, with every conveniency for building and repairing fhips. In a word, the whole forms as complete, tho' not fo large an arfenal as any in England. The harbour is very capacious, and greatly frequented, both in times of war and peace. In the reign of Edward III. the French landed and burnt part of the town, but were foon repulfed by Hugh Courteney, earl cf Devon. In the reign of Henry IV. they landed again, and burnt fix hundred houfes. The toll of the markets, corn, yarn, &c. together with the profits of the mill, which form a very confiderable fum, belong to the corporation ; and the revenues of the fhambles, farmed at one hundred and fixty pounds a year, are appropriated to the mayor's kitchen. Between Plymouth and the fea, is a hill called the Haw, on the fummit of which is a delightful plain, affording an enchanting profpect, and a curious compals is placed here for the ufe of mariners. On the brow of this hill is a fort, built by king Charles II. which at once awes the town, and defends the harbour ; for it muft be remem- bered, that Plymouth, during thelaft civil war, adhered to the parliament, and, by an obftinate rcfiftance, did more injury to the royal caufe than any other town in the weft, of England ; the king's army being obliged to raife the fiege, after having invelled the place feveral months. in the reign ot Edward I. when this town firft fent members to parliament, it was divided into two parts, called Sutton Voltert, and Sutton Prior. It continued to fend members to- the Britifh parliament till the four- teenth of Edward III. after which the practice was dif- continued till the twentieth of Henry VI. when the pri- vilege was renewed. Here are three well frequented weekly markets, viz. cii Monday, Thurfday, and S-iturday ; and two annual fairs, DEVO NSHIRE. 27 fairs, held on the twenty-fifth of January, and the twen- ty -hi ft of September, for horned cattle and woollen cloth. Being defirous of viewing t ie light-houfe built on the famous rock called the Eddyftone, we procured a frnafl veffel to carry us thither. The Eddyftone lies about four leagues S. by W. from Ramhead, the weftern cape of Plymouth Sound. Manv fhips were formerly loft upon this dangerous rock, which is covered at half tide, and iuch a depth of water clofe to ir, that fhips often ftruck upon it when no danger was apprehended. In order to prevent thefe dreadful accidents for the fu- ture, the ingenious Mr. Winftanley undertook to erect a light-houfe on it. He finifhed the talk in the year 1696; and the work was lb well performed, that it flood firm, for fome years, againft all the attacks of ftorms. The able artift often vifited this ftructure, and, at different times, added new works to ftrengthen it ; till he was io confident of its firmnefs and (lability, that he ufually faid to thofe who doubted of its ftanding in bad weather, that he only defired to be in it when a ftorm fhould happen. Hiswifh was unfortunately fulfilled ; for in the dread- ful tempeft which happened on the twenty-feventh of November 1703, he was in the light-houfe, and made fio-nals of diftrefs, but no veffel could venture out to his relief; and,' when the morning appeared, no remains of the light-houfe were to be feen ; it was demolifhed the preceding night, and every foul in it perifhed. A few days after this unfortunate accident, a fhip called the Winchelfea, homeward bound from Virginia, not know- ing the light-houfe was down, ran upon the rock, and was loft, with all her lading, and the greater part of her crew. To prevent the like misfortunes for the future, the corporation of Trinity-houfe procured an act of parlia- ment in the fifth year of the reign of queen Anne, for building another light-houfe on the Eddyftone; and a i^cond was, form after, finifhed ; but this alfo fhared the fate of the fonner 5 and a third has been lately erected by the ingenious Mr. Smeaton, on a much better plan than any of the preceding., and bids fair to refill: the fury of the moft violent tempeft ever known in this country. The profpedt from this light houfe, in fine weather, is very beautiful ; the number of fliips palling up and down the Englifh channel, together with thofe coming in and going out of Plymouth Sound, form a moving picture, remarkably pleafing. At the fame time, the i'urge of the waves, in calm weather, againft the rock at low water, or againft the fides of the light-houfe, when the rock is covered, fufficiently intimate the horror that jnuft fill the mind, from the howling of the wind, and the favage impetuofity of the waves, foamingand dafhing againft the ftructure, during a violent tempeft, when all poflible relief is cut off, and fafety depends entirely on the ftrength of the building. After viewing this ingenious piece of architecture, we returned to Plymouth, and crofted Catwater, in order to vifit Plympton, an ancient borough town, fituated on a fmall ftream which falls into the river Plym, two hundred iind eighteen miles from London. This town is called Plympton Maurice, or Earl's Plympton, todiftinguifh it from Plympton St. Mary's, a a town halt a mile diftant. It firft fent members to par- liament in the twenty-third year of the reign of Edward I. and is one of the ftannary towns. Here are ftill the ruins of a caftle, once the feat of the ancient earls of Devon ; and the tenure, called Cafile-guard, for defending and repairing the walls of the above caftle, continues to this day. It is a populous town, though it confifts principally of two ftreets, of ordinary houfes. There is, however, a guild-hallj fuppoited by ftone pillars, where the corn- rnarket is kept. It has alio the beft free-fchool in the whole county. The fchool-houfc, which, like the guiJd-ha!l, ftands upon ftone pillars, was built, in the year 1664, by Sir John Maynard, one of the truftees of Elizeus Hele, Efq; of Cornwood, who left fifteen hun- dred pounds a year to fuch ufes. Plympton was incorporated in the reign of queen Eli- zabeth ; and is governed by a mayor, recorder, eight aldermen, or principal burgefi'es, who are called common council-men, a bailiff, and a town-clerk. , Here is a weekly market on Saturday, pretty well fre- quented ; and four annual fairs, held on the twenty-fifth of February, the fifth of April, the twelfth of Auguft, and the twenty-eighth of October, for horned cattle and woollen cloth ; a very confiderable manufacture of ferges, and odier woollen goods, being carried on in this town. Plympton St. Mary's is almoft joined to the town we have juil defcribt-J, and was once the mother church. It had a college, confiding of a dean, four prebendaries, and three minifters, founded by one of the Saxon kings. But this fociety was difiolved by William Warlewalt, bifhop of Exeter, who fettled here, in the year 1121, a priory of canons regular, of the order of St. Auguftine, dedicating it to the apoftles St. Peter and St. Paul. Its yearly revenues, by the benefactions of earl Baldwin de Redveriis, and others, exceeded any in the diocefe of Exeter, being valued, at the diftblution of monafteries, at nine hundred and twelve pounds, twelve fhillings and eight pence. Leaving Plympton, we continued our tour, through a very pleafant country, and crofted the rivers Yalme and Arme, flopping at Modbury, a fmall market" town fituated on a ftream. that difcharges its waters into the river Arme, two hun- dred and twenty three miles from London. It was once a borough town, and fent members to parliament in the reign of Edward I. but is now a Imall place, and famous only for its ale, though there is a tolerable manufacture of ferges carried on here. It has a fmall market on Thurfday, befides an annual fair, held on the twenty-fourth of Auguft, for the fale of cattle. Here was a cell of Benedictine monks, belonging to the abbey of St. Peter fur Dieu, in Normandy, as early as the reign of king Stephen. It was founded by one Ruan, and dedicated to St. George. It was valued at about feventy pounds per annum. Upon the diftblution of the alien priories, Henry VI. gave this cell to the college of Eaton ; Edward IV. gave it to Taviftock- abbey; and, laftly, it came to King's college in Cambridge. The next town we vifited was Kingfbridge, fituated on the river Salcomb, which is here navigable for boats, two hundred and one miles from London. It is a pretty confiderable town, though the church is only a chapel of eafe to Chifton. Here is a charity-fchool, founded by Mr. Crifpin of Exeter ; and a ftone bridge over the Sal- comb. The market is held on Saturday ; befides which, there is an annual fair on the twentieth of July, for the fale of cattle, cloth, and fhoes. In the neighbourhood of Kingfbridge is another fmall market-town, called Dodbrook. It is fituated on a fmall ftream, called the Dod, near its influx into the Salcomb. Here is a charity-fchool, and the place is remarkable for paying the parfon tythe of a liquor called White Ale. It has a fmall market on Wednefday, and an annual fair on the Wednefday before Palm Sunday, for the fale of cattle, cloth, &c. From Dodbrook we continued our journey towards Dartmouth, flopping at a fmall village called Brixham, about three miles from that town, in order to view a re- markable curiofity formed by the hand of nature, and called Lay-well, famous for its ebbing and flowing. This celebrated fpring is fituated on the declivity of the hill, about three quarters of a mile from the fea, and confiderably above the level of the water on the highett fpring tide. The form of the well is nearly round, and about fix feet in diameter. There is a rim cf ftone round it, and about an inch and a half difference in the heighth of the water, at its different periods of flowing and eb- bing. There is very little irregularity in the time of its performing thefe different motions of flux and reflux; for both together generally happen in fix minutes, or ten times in an hour. If holes be dug in the earth near the well, the water in them will rife and fall in the very fame manner ; and theie holes, we found by experiment, were filled and emptied by turt>s; and it was pleafing to fee the water at firft rufh in through feveral paffages, till the hole was full, which little flood would continue near three DEVONSHIRE. three mir.ut?r, when the water would begin to ebb, and fo continue for fomethihg more than three minutes, till the hole was dry, and we could fee the fluid run away through a number of fmall duel's : in a little time the water returned a^ain, flowed and ebbed as before, and fo on continually, without any material variation. The waters of Lay-well fupply a ftream about five feet wide ; and, what is very remarkable, weobferved, that the wa- ters of he ftream ebbed and flowed with the well, about half an inch perpendicular. It is abundantly evident, fr -m the very fituaticn of the well, that it does not de- rive its waters from the fea ; becaufe it is very confi- derably higher than the high-water mark of the higheft fpring tide, but from waters collected in fubterraneous batons, fituated in the fide of the hill above the fpring. Thefe bafons, by the help of natural fyphons, caufe this famous fpring to ebb and flow in the manner we have al- ready defcribed. The water of this fpring is remarkably clear, and very cold in fummer, though it never freezes in the winter : the neighbouring inhabitants efteem it medicinal n Come kinds of fevers. About three miles from this remarkable fpring is the borough town of Dartmouth, fituated at the mouth of the ri ver Dart, one hundred and ninety- two miles from Lon- don. It was incorporated by king John, and formed out of three diftinct towns, Dartmouth, Clifton, and Hardnefs. It was called Clifton from the cliffs on which moft of the houfes were fituated, and out of which many of them were dug. It is governed by a mayor, twelve magiftrates, called Matters, twelve common council- men, a recorder, town-clerk, bailifF, and high- ftevvard. The three laft are chofen by the mayor and magiftrates, who have alio the power of making freemen. The mayor, bailifF, and coroner, are chofen annually. Here is a court of feffions, and a water bailiff's court, holder, by a leafe of three lives from the dutchy of Cornwall, for which the corporation pays fourteen pounds a year referved rent. The town, which is a. mile in length, ftands on the fide of a craggy hill, with very irregular ftreets, being fometimes two or three, one above another ; yet, not- withftanding this, the houfes, in general, are very hi^h. The harbour is fo capacious, that five hundred fail of large fhips may ride in it with fafety : at the fame time, it is defended with three caftles, befides forts and block- houfes, and the entrance may, upon occafion, be fhut up with a chain ; fo that it is a fafe retreat in time of war. Here is a large quay, and before it a fpacious ftreet, inhabited principally by merchants, who carry on a great trade to Portugal and the Plantations, efpecially to New- foundland, where they catch large quantities of fifh, which they carry to Spain, Portugal, and Italy. Here is alfo the greateft pilchard fifhery of any in the weft, except Falmouth in Cornwall; and the fhipping, and trade of this town in general, are the moft confiderable of any in the county, except Exeter and Plymouth. Here are three large churches, befides a meeting-houfe. King John, who incorporated Dartmouth, alfo en- dowed it with the privilege of fending members to the Britifh parliament; and they are now chofen by feventy- eight freemen, and the return made by the mayor. By a grant of Edward III. theburgefles are toll-free through- out England ; and in the reign of Richard II. they ob- tained the exclufive right of exporting tin, in conlidera- tion of their having affiftcd him with ammunition and provifions in his war with France. Edward IV. to re- ward their courage againft the Ftench, tranflated the port hither from Fowey, and gave them twenty pounds a year in fee-farm; to which Richard III. and Henry VIII. added twenty pounds more. Dartmouth was burnt by the French in the reign of Richard I. and afterwards, in the time of Henry IV. They attempted it a third time, but were repulfed, and chiefly by the bravery of the women, who fought like Amazons, deftroyed great numbers of the enemy, and took M. Caftc!, the French general, three lords, and twenty-three knights, prifoners. Here is a weekly mar- ket, very well frequented, on Friday ; but no annual fair. From Dartmouth we purlued our journey to Totnefs, a confiderable town, fituated on the Dart, one hundred and ninety-five miles from London. The river h navi-* gable to this town for boats, the tide riling here ten or twelve feet. Here is a fine ftone bridge over the river leading to Berry-pomeroy. It is a borough by prefcrip- tion, and the oldeft in the county, having fent members to parliament ever fince the twenty-third of Edward I. King John made it a corporation, confifting of fourteen burgo-mafters, one whereof is mayor, who, with his predecefibr, and the recorder, are juftices of the peace. The common council confifts of twenty-eight members* befides which, there are a few freemen, chofen by the mayor and matters. The church is fpacious and elegant, adorned with a fine tower, crowned with four pinnacles, ninety feethio-h. The town-hall and ch arity-fchool are both food build- ings ; The town itfelf confifts chiefly of one broad ftreet three quarters of a mile in length, fituated on the fide of a rocky hill declining to the river. It was formerly walled in, and had four gates; but the fouth gate only, and fome fmall parts of the reft, are now remaining. Here are alfo the ruins of a caftle, which was once of confiderable ftrength. The chief trade of the town is the woollen manufacture, but here are more gentlemen than tradefmen of note. This place is noted for the peculiarity of its loyal addrefs to king George I. upon the union of Charles VI. emperor of Germany, with the king of Spain, by the treaty of Vienna ; when the members of the corporation allured his majefty, they were ready to grant him, not only a land-tax of four fhillings in the pound, but, if his fer- vice required it, to give the remaining fixteen fhillings. Salmon, and other fifh, are very numerous in the river Dart, efpecially near this town, where they have a pe- culiar method of catching them, by means of a fpaniel trained for that purpofe. On the fouth fide of the river, and on a narrow cut or channel formed on purpole, ftands a corn-mill.; the mill-tail, or floor for the water below the wheels, is wharfed up on either fide with ftone, above high-water mark, about twenty or thirty feet in length below the mill. At the lower extremity of this wharhng is a grating of wood, the crofs bars of which are fharp at the end, and ftand pointing towards each other, like the wires of a moufe-trap. When the tide flows upwards, the fifh can eafily pafs between the points of thefe crofs bars ; but the gates of the mill being fhut, they can go no higher; and, when the tide ebbs away, are left behind, being unable to pafs the points of the grating; fo that they are left at the bot- tom of the channel, in about a foot and a half of water. In order to catch the fifh thus left behind by the tide, they fix a fhove-net at one end of the ftream, and put in a fpaniel, properly taught, at the other, and he drives all the fifh into the net, by which means they are taken without any further trouble. We were informed, that it is no uncommon thing to take fifty falmon at a time, from feventeen to twenty inches in length. They have alfo very excellent trout here, which, with the cheapnefs of other provifions, induce many perfons of fmall fortune to fettle at Totnefs, where they can live very elegantly at a little expence. Here is a well frequented market on Saturday ; and four annual fairs, held on Eafter Tuefday, the firft of May, the twenty-fifth of July, and the twenty-eighth of October, for the fale of horfes, fheep, black cattle, and cloth. On the other fide of the bridge, already mentioned, is Berry-pomeroy, where there is an ancient caftle built by the defendants of Radulph de Pomeroy, who held this, and about fifty other lordfhips, in the time of William the Conqueror. About three miles to the weftward of Totnefs, is Brent, a fmall market town fituated on the river Armc, one hundred and ninety-eight miles from London. It has a manufacture of ferge, a fmall market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the thirteenth of May, and the tenth of October, for cattle. Afhburton lies about ten miles, upon a fmall ftream, about half a mile above its influx with the Dart, and one hundred and nhety-one miles from London. It is an ancient DEVON ancient borough by prefcription, and governed by a chief magiftrate. called a Portreve, who is chofen annually at a court of the lords of the manor, and is the returning of- ficer at the election for members of parliament. The town coniifts chiefly of one large ftreet, and has a hand- fome church, built in the manner of a cathedral, and adorned with a tower ninety-one feet high, on which is a fpire covered with lead. The chancel of this church is very large, and has feveral ftalls in it, like thofe in col- legiate churches. Here is alfo a chapel, which was for- merly a chantry, but now ufed as a fchool, as well as for the meetings of the parifh, and the election of mem- bers to ferve in parliament. It is a great thoroughfare, ftanding on the principal road leading from London to the Land's End, and about half way between Exeter and Plymouth. It is one of the ftannary towns, has a good manufacture of ferges, and remarkable for having feveral mines of tin and copper in its neighbourhood. Here are two weekly markets, held on Tuefdays and Saturdays ; the former for wool and yarn, and the latter for provi- fions : befides which, here are four annual fairs for the fale of cattle, viz. the firft Thurfday in March, the flrft Thurfday in June, the tenth of Auguft, and the firft of November. At Buckfaftleigh, a village about three miles from Afhburton, was an abbey of the Ciftertian order, founded in the year eleven hundred and thirty-feven, by Ethel- ward, fon cf William Pomeroy. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and its annual revenues, at the fuppreffion of monafteries, amounted to four hundred and fixty-fix pounds, eleven {hillings and two pence. In the fourteen ih year of the reign of Charles I. there happened at Withicomb, a village in the neighbourhood of Afhburton, a violent ftorm of thunder and lightening, during which, a ball of fire broke into the church where the people were affembled at divine fervice, killed three perfons, wounded fixty-two, and did fo much damage to the church, that the repairs amounted to above three hundred pounds. From Afhburton we paffed to Newton Bufhel, fome- times called Newton Abbot, a market-town fituated on the river Teign, one hundred and eighty- feven miles from London. It is a large town, but the buildings very mean and irregular. It has a manufacture of ferge, and a weekly market on Wednefday, very well fre- quented ; and three annual fairs, viz. on the twenty- fourth of June, for black cattle; on the firft Wednefday in September, for cheefo;, and on the twenty-fixth of November, for woollen cldth. At Stoke, a village near Newton-bufhel, John de Stanford obtained leave from king Edward III. to found a religious houfe in honour of the Virgin Mary and St. Andrew, for a warden, and feveral chaplains, to whom he gave licence of Mortmain to hold the manor of Stoke, together with the advowfon of the church ; but it does not appear, whether this religious houfe was ever built and endowed according to the donor's intention. Near the mouth of the river Teign, on which the town of Newton-bufhel is fituated, are two villages, called Eaft and Weft Teignmouth, or Tingmouth. The former is famous for the landing of the Danes, in their firft expedition to England, in the year 970, in order to view the country previous to their invading it. The French burnt this village in queen Anne's war ; but the inhabitants, by means of a brief, were foon after enabled to rebuild their houfes in a more fubftantial manner. Eaft Teignmouth is fituated near the above, and was formerly a borough, which difputed its antiquity with Exeter. On the other fide of the Teign, in the road between Newton-bufhel and Exeter, is Chudleigh, a market- town, one hundred and eighty-two miles from London. Here is a manufacture of ferge, and a market, pretty well frequented, on Saturday; and two annual fairs, one on the eleventh of June, for fheep ; and the other on the twenty-firft cf September, for black cattle. The bifhops of Exeter had a fumptuous palace here before the refor- mation, built by one of thofe prelates in the reign of Edward III. " That," as the biihop exprefies it in his 4 SHIRE. 29 will, " his fucceffors might have a place to lay thex " heads, if the king fhould feize their temporalities." The city of Exeter, which we next vifited, is fitu- ated on the river Ex, one hundred and feventy-two miles from London. It was incorporated by king John, and made a countv of itfelf by Henry VIII. It is governed by a mayor, twenty-four aldermen, four bailiffs, a re- corder, a chamberlain, a tow n -clerk, and four ftewards. At all public procefiions, the magiftrates are attended by a fword-bearer, carrying a fword given by Henry Vll. four ferjeants at mace, 2nd four ftafF-bearers. The mayor and officers hear, try, and determine all pleas and civil caufes, with the advice of the recorder, aldermen, and common council of the city ; but criminal and crown caufes are determined by eight aldermen, who are juftices of the peace. Here are alfo twelve companies of incor- porated trades, who, on public occafions, follow the mayor. Exeter is confidered as one of the chief cities of Eng- land, both with regard to buildings, wealth, extent, and number of inhabitants. It is two miles in circumference, including its fuburbs, and encompaffed with a ftone wail, fortified with turrets. On the top of the walls is a delightful walk round the city, the fpectator having the pleafure of feeing a fine open country, decorated with woods, arable lands, orchards, gardens, villages, and gentlemen's feats. It has fix gates, and four principal ftreets, all centering in the middle of the city, thence called Carfax, a contraction of the old Norman word Quatre-voix, four ways. One of thefe, called the High-ftreet, is very grand and fpacious ; the houfes, in general, are of the antique form, but erected on a good plan, large, commodious, and not inelegant. This ftreet is full of fhops, well furnifhed, and trade of every kind appears brifk and lively. The bridge over the Ex is of great length, and has houfes on both fides, except in the middle, where there is a vacancy. The guild- hall is aftately ftructure, and decorated with the pictures of general Monk, and the princefs Henrietta Maria, youngeft daughter of king Charles I. that princefs being born here. In the northern angle of the city, ftands Rugemont caftle, once the refidence of the Weft Saxon monarch, and afterwards of the earls of Cornwall. It is not very large, but of a fquare figure, encompaffed with a high wall and deep ditch. On the north fide of this caftle, and which was formerly its counterfcarp, is a beautiful terrafs-walk, bordered by a double row of fine elms, and extending quite round one quarter of the city. The profpect from thence is enchanting, and equal to any thing of that kind in England. This caftle is now greatly decayed, a part of it only being kept in repair, for holding the affizes, quarter- feffions, and country- courts, together with a chapel for divine fervice. This city is well fupplied with water, partly from fprings, and partly from the river Ex. The former is brought in pipes, from fountains in the neighbourhood, to feveral conduits ; among which is one particularly re- markable, fituated in the center, where the four ftreets meet, erected by WilliamDuke, who was mayor in the time of Edward IV. The fupply of water from the river is raifed by means of an engine, worked by a water-wheel turned by the current. The water is firft thrown into a refervoir, raifed about twenty feet above the ground, and fituated in the higheft part of the city, adjoining to the guild-hall ; and thence difperfed in pipes to the different parts of the city ; fo that every inhabitant of the princi- pal ftreets may have the water laid into his own houfe, Exeter is the fee of a bifhop, removed hither from Crediton by Edward the Confefior, who, with his queen Editha, enthroned Leofric in this cathedral in theyear 1050. The cathedral, which is dedicated to St. Peter, is a very curious, magnificent, and elegant ftructure, though the different parts of it v/ere built at different times, dur- ing a period of above three hundred years : for Robert Warlewafie, who was confecrated bifhop of Exeter in 1 1 50, built the choir ; Peter Quivil, who filled the fee in 1280, erected the body of the church ; John Grandi- fon, confecrated in 1327, built the two laft arches at the weft end, and covered the whole roof ; and Peter Cour- I tenay, DEVON SHIRE. tenay, bifhop cf this fee, and afterwards tranflated to Winchefter, finiflicd the north tower in 1485. Yet, notwithstanding this, the whole forms one uniform ftruc- ture, and appears as regular as if begun and fir.ifhed by one and the fame architect. The whole edifice, which is vaulted throughout, is three hundred and ninety feet long, and feventy-four broad. In one of the towers is a very large bell, weighing fixty hundred weight ; and in the other, a ring of ten large bells. The organ is very remarkable, being fupported by a tetraftyle of very beautiful Gothic columns; and the large pipes in the inftrument are fif- teen inches diameter, and of a proportional heighth. The molt remarkable piece of antiquity in this cathe- dral, and which is, perhaps, equal to that of the fee it- felf, is the bifhop' s throne in the choir. At the diffolu- tipn of epifcopacy at the end of the reign of Charles I. it was removed ; but fuch care taken of the feveral parts, that it was afterwards replaced, without any apparent defe in parliament. At the diflblution of monafteries, it was endowed with nine hundred and two pounds, five fnillings and feven-pence per anmtm. Se- veral books were printed here in the old Saxon, and a fchool eftablilhed for teaching that language, 4 N S H I R E. 33 Here is a ftone bridge over the Tave, called Guile- bridge, of which the following account has been handed down by tradition. One Childe, owner of the manor of Plymftock, gave, by will, thofe lands to the church where his body fliould be buried. Soon after, being hunting in the adjacent foreft, he loft both his compa- nions and his way ; in this forlorn condition he wan- dered for fome time, till the piercing feverity of the wea- ther obliged him, as his laft refource, to kill his horfe, in order to fcreen himfelf from the cold in the belly of the animal ; but this foon failing, he periftied. After fome fearch, the body was found by the inhabitants of Taviftock, and by them carried away towards their ab- bey, in order for interment ; but the people of Plym- ftock, unwilling to lofe fo rich a legacy, lay in ambufti for them at a bridge, over which they apprehended the others muft pafs with the body. In this, however, they were deceived ; the religious of the abbey, to fecure fo confiderable a revenue, built a flight bridge on purpofe, over the Tave, in the place where the other now ftands, and over this temporary bridge the body was conveyed to the abbey, and there interred. Taviftock has a weekly market, well frequented, on Friday ; and five annual fairs for the fale of cattle, viz. the feventeenth of January, the fixth of May, the ninth of September, the tenth of October, and the eleventh of December. Near this town is Buckland priory^ founded by Amicia, daughter of Gilbert de Clare, earl of Glouceiter, and wife of Baldwin de Redveriis, earl of Devon. It was dedicated to St. Mary and St. Benedict, and filled with, monks from the Ifle of Wightj in the year 1278. At the diflblution, it was valued at two hundred and forty- one pounds, feventeen {hillings and nine-pence per annu7n y and given to Sir Richard Grecnvile ; but, in the reign of queen Elizabeth, it became, the poftefiion of the famous Sir Francis Drake, and in that honourable family it has ever fince continued. We have given a perfpective view of this priory on the copper-plate annexed. In the church of Lamberton, two miles S. W. of Taviftock, are the effigies of Nicholas and Andrew Tre- maine, twins, born in that parifh. The features, fta- ture, voice, and every other particular of thefe perfons, lb exactly refembled each other, that thofe who knew them beft could not always diftinguifh them. But this Similitude of perfon, however uncommon, was lefs won- derful than the fympathy which fubfifted between them ; for, even at a diftance from each other, they performed the fame functions, had the fame appetites and defires, and fuffered, at the fame time, the fame pains and anxie- ties. Nothing farther is related of thefe remarkable per- fons, except that, in the year 1663, they were both killed together at Newhaven, in France; but in what manner, or on what occalion, is not known. After viewing Taviftock, and the moft remarkable places in its neighbourhood, we directed our courfe to the northward, and pafled through Lidfton, a market- town in Mr. Camden's time ; but the market is now dif- ufed, and the town has nothing to engage the attention of a traveller. Houlfworthy is fituated near the borders of Cornwall, on a brook that falls into the river Tamar, one hundred and ninety-four miles from London. It has a manufac- ture of ferges, a market on Saturday, and three annual fairs for the fale of cattle, viz. the twenty-feventh of April, the tenth of July, and the fecond of October. Hatherly is a fmall market-town, fituated on a branch, of the river Touridge, near its conflux with the Oke, one hundred and ninety-four miles from London. The manor formerly belonged to Taviftock Abbey, but has been in lay-hands ever fince the diflblution of religious houfes. Here is a weekly market on Friday ; and four annual fairs, viz. the twenty-firft of May, the twenty- fecond of June, the fourth of September, and the eighth, of November, for the fale of cattle. Chimley is a fmall market-town, fituated on the river Tave, about mid-way between Exeter and Barnftaple, one hundred and eighty-four miles from London. Here was once a free-fchool, founded by the earl of Bedford, but has long fince come to nothing. It has a fmall mar- ket on Thurfday, but no annual fair. K Tiverton DEVONSHIRE. Tiverton was the next place of note we vifited. It Hands between the rivers Ex and Loman, and has a ftone bridge over each of thefe ftreams. Before thefe bridges were built, there were two fords here, one over each of the above rivers, and hence the town was called Twy- fordton, the town upon two fords, and thence, by ab- breviation, Tiverton. It is the greateft manufacturing town in this county, Exeter only excepted: it is alfo verv populous, wealthy, and all the inhabitants employed. Tiverton fends two members to parliament, and is governed by a mayor, twelve principal burgefles, and twelve inferior burgefles, or afliftants, a recorder, and a town-clerk of the peace. The mayor, by the charter of incorporation, which was granted by James I. is gaol- keeper, and accordingly the gaol-delivery is always held before him and the recorder. This town has been remarkable for its fufferings by fire. On the third of April 1 598, being market-day, a fire broke out, about one in the afternoon, in the weft part of the town ; and burnt with fuch violence, that the whole place, confiding of above fix hundred houfes, was confumed, the church and two alms-houfes only efcaping the fury of the flames. It was hardly rebuilt, when it was again totally deftroyed by fire, on the fifth of Auguft 1612; but the church and alms-houfes were again preferved. On the fifth of June 173!} another terrible fire happened here, which deftroyed two hundred of the beft houfes in the place, together with moil of the manufactures. The lofs, upon this occafion, was com- puted at one hundred and fifty thoufand pounds. The year following, an act of parliament paffed for rebuilding the town, by which it was enjoined, that the new built houfes mould be covered with lead or tile inftead of thatch; that no trade likely to occafion fires fhould be exercifed in the public ftreets, nor any ftacks of corn, ftraw, or hay, erected there ; that fire-engines fhould be provided ; that houfes fhould be demolifhed to ftop any future fire ; and that particular houfes fhould be pulled down, for widening the ftreets and other paflages. The fucceeding year, viz. 1733, another act was pafled for making a chapel, built by the fubfeription of the inhabitants of Tiverton, a perpetual cure, and for providing a maintenance for the minifters who fhall offi- ciate in it 3 for, as the preamble to the act obferves, the parifh-church was far from being fufficiently capacious to receive the inhabitants of the parifh. But the glory of Tiverton is the free-fchool, fituated at the eaft entrance of the town j a noble building, but a much nobler foundation. It was erected by one Peter Blondel, a clothier, and a lover of learning. He often ufed the the faying of William of Wickham to the king, when he founded the noble fchool at Winchefter : " If I " am not myfelf a fcholar, I will be the occafion of " making more fcholars than any fcholar in England." Mr. Blondel has endowed this fchool fo liberally, that the mafter has at leaft fixty pounds a year, befides a very good houfe to live in, and the advantage of fcholars not on the foundation. The ufher has likewife a proportional falary. This generous founder alfo laid out two thoufand pounds in the purchafe of lands, to maintain fix fcholars at Oxford and Cambridge, to be elected out of the fcho- lars of this fchool. There are now eight, and placed at Baliol college in Oxford, and at Sidney college in Cam- bridge. He alfo left an allowance for a yearly feaft on St. Peter's day, in remembrance of him. This fchool is the principal nurfery for the young gen- tlemen in thefe weftern parts of the kingdom. At the fame time, the profits arifing from boarders, and the li- beral benefactions of parents, added to the falary fettled by the founder, render this preferment worthy the ac- ceptance of a perfon celebrated for his parts and learning ; and, as the truftees are gentlemen of the ftricteft honour, it is generally difpofed of to the moft worthy candidate. In the church of this town was formerly a chapel, built by the earls of Devonfhire, for their burial-place. In this chapel, which is now demolifhed, there was a monument erected to the memory of Edward Courtnay, earl of Devonfhire, and his countefs ; with their ef- figies in alabafter, richly gilt, and the following in- fcription : Ho, ho, who lies here ? 'Tis I, the good earl of Devonfhire, With Kate, my wife, to me full dear : We liv'd together fifty-five year. That we fpent, we had ; That we left, we loft ; That we gave, we have. Tiverton fends two members to parliament ; has tw«* weekly markets, held on Tuefday and Saturday ; and two annual fairs for the fale of cattle, &c. the firft is held on the Tuefday fortnight after Whitfunday, and the fecond on the tenth of October; but if the latter happens on a Sunday, the fair is kept the Tuefday following. At Legh, a village a little to the north-weft of Tiver- ton, Walter Clavell, in the reign of Henry II. founded a monaftery for canons of the order of St. Auguftine, who were changed by Maud de Clare, countefs of Here- ford and Gloucefter, in the beginning of the reign of Edward I. into an abbey of nuns, or canonefles of the fame order. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, St. John the evangelift, and St. Etheldreda ; and valued, at the diflblution, at which time there were about eighteen religious in this monaftery, at one hundred and ninety- feven pounds, three fhillings and a penny per annum. Bampton, or, as it is vulgarly called, Baunton, both being corruptions of Bathampton, is a fmall market- town, fituated in a bottom encompafTed with hills, on a branch of the river Ax, one hundred and fixty miles from London. It formerly fent members to parliament, but that privilege has been loft manyyears. It is, however, ftill governed by a portreve, chofen annually, and has a flourifh- ing manufacture of ferges, a good market on Wednef- day, and two annual fairs, viz. on Whitfun-Tuefday, and the twenty-fourth of October, both for the fale of cattle. South Moulton was the next town we vifited. It ftands on the river Moul, and has the epithet South, to diftinguifh it from North Moulton, fituated on the fame ftream, a few miles farther to the northward. It was anciently a royal demefne, and was at laft purchafed by the corporation of queen Elizabeth ; and they are now lords of the manor, paying a certain fee-farm rent to the crown. South Moulton is one hundred and eighty-three miles diftant from London, was once a borough town, and fent members to parliament in the reign of Edward I. It is governed by a mayor, eighteen capital burgefles, a recorder, town-clerk, and two ferjeants at mace. It has a noble and fpacious church ; a charity-fchool, where thirty boys are taught and cloathed by fubfeription ; and a free-fchool, which was built and endowed in the year 1684, by a native of the place, but a merchant of Lon- don. The chief manufactures of this town are ferges, fhalloons, and felts ; and great quantities of wool, brought from different parts of the country, are bought up here every Saturday, that being the weekly market. But there are two Saturdays in the year, when the mar- kets are much larger than at other times, being then furnifhed with different forts of cattle, wares and mer- chandize, viz. the Saturday after the thirteenth of April, and the Saturday before the firft of May. There are alfo here four annual fairs for the fale of cattle, held on the Wednefday before the twenty-fecond of June, the Wed- nefday after the twenty-fixth of Auguft, the Saturday before the tenth of October, and the Saturday before the twelfth of December. From South Moulton we paffed on to Barnftaple, a large borough town on the river Taw, one hundred and ^ngety-four miles diftant from London. It is pleafantly ^rcpated among hills, in the form of a femicircle, the rfver befng the diameter. It is an ancient borough by prefcription, ever fince the twenty-third year of the reign of Edward I. The ftreets are clean and well paved, and the houfes built of ftone. It was formerly walled, de- fended by a caftle, and enjoyed the privileges of a city ; but thefe privileges being loft, it was incorporated by queen Mary, and is governed by a mayor, twenty- four common council-men, of whom two are aldermen, a high fteward, a recorder, a deputy recorder, and other officers. DEVON officers. It has a ftately ftone bridge over the river Taw, built, according to fome writers, by one Stamford, a merchant of London ; but, according to others, by the inhabitants, from the profits of the ferry ; except three of the piers, which were creeled by fubfeription of the maid- ens of Barnftaple. The river Taw was formerly deep enough to bring up fliips of great burden to the key at Barnftaple ; but the navigation is now fo greatly injured, by a vaft number of fand-banks, extending, in feveral places, quite acrofs the river, that only (hips of fmall burden can now come up to the quay. This has greatly leffened the trade of Barnftaple, though it is ftill very confiderable, efpecially to America and Ireland, it being an eftablifhed port for the importation of wool from the latter. It has alfo a very confiderable trade with the clothiers of Tiverton and Exeter, who come hither to purchafe fifh, wool, and yarn, great quantities of the latter being fpun in the town and its neighbourhood. Here are two charity- fchools, one for fifty, and another for thirty girls. We have already obferved, that the navigation of the river is greatly impeded by fand-banks; thefe not only prevent fhips of burden from coming up to Barnftaple, but alfo impede the current of the river ; by which means the waters fwell fo high on fpring-tides, that the adja- cent meadows are overflowed ; and the town itfelf ap- pears, to a fpectator on the neighbouring hills, to be fituated on a peninfula. Here are ftill fome remains of the ancient caftle, which, fome fay, was built by king Athelftan ; and others, by one Indael of Totriefs. In the eaftern part of the town was a religious houfe, erected by Joel, ion of Alured, eail of Britanny : it was dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, for monks of the Cluniac order ; and the founder himfelf intended to have fpent the latter part of his life among them, but was prevented by death. This monaftery was, for fome time, a cell to St. Martin's in the Fields, near Paris ; and, at the diflblution, at which time one Robert Thorn was prior, it was valued at two hundred and twenty-three pounds, fix [hillings and feven- pence per annum. Barnftaple has a large weekly market on Friday ; and four annual fairs, viz. the twenty-ninth of September, the Friday before the twenty-firft of April, and the fe- cond Friday in December, all for the fale of cattle. The two latter are indeed rather large markets than fairs, there being no charter for holding them. At Pilton, a village joined to Barnftaple by a bridge over a fmall ftream, called the North-Yeo, was a Bene- dictine priory, founded by king Athelftan, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It was accounted a cell to Malms- bury Abbey, in Wiltfhire; and, at the time of the diflb- lution, confifted only of a prior and three monks, though the yearly revenues were valued at three hundred and thirty-two pounds, feventeen (hillings and five-pence. From Barnftaple we crofled the Taw, over the ftone- bridge already mentioned, and directed our route towards Farrington; and, in our way, vifited Taviftock- houfe, the feat of Sir Bourchier Wrey, baronet; and faid to be thejargeft and beft finifhed ftructure of this kind in the county. From a fmall hill in the park, there is a view of the beft manor, beft manfion, and beft rectory, in Devonfhire. Near this feat, on the other fide of the river Taw, is a fmall town called Bifhops Tauton. It was the firft bilhop's fee in this county, but did not long enjoy that honour ; for two bifhops only fat here when the fee was removed to Crediton, and afterwards to Exeter. Torrington, or, as it is often called, Great Torrington, to diftinguifh it from another, but much fmaller town, fituated in the neighbourhood, but on the other fide of the river, is an ancient borough, fituated on the Tou- ridge, one hundred and ninety-two miles from London. It fent members to parliament in the reigns of Edward I. II. and III. but not fince. It was incorporated by queen Mary, and is governed by a mayor, eight aldermen, and fixteen burgefles. The petty feflions, and other meetings of the gentlemen and j unices of this part of the county, are generally held here. It has two churches, one of which is very fpacious, has feveral antique monuments, SHIRE. and a library belonging to it. Margaret countefs of Richmond, mother to Henry VII. lived here for fome time, and gave the manor-houfe, together with the lands belonging to it, to the rector of Torrington, and hisfuc- ceflors ; for, before that time, the parfonage-houfe was fituated at a great diftance from the church. The river Touridge is navigable, for fmall veflels, to this town, by which means a very confiderable trade is carried on to Ireland, Wales, Briftol, and other places. The town is rich and populous, the inhabitants being employed in the woollen manufacture, feveral branches of which are carried on here. Here is a good ftone-bridge over the Touridge ; and feveral alms-houfes, whofe inhabitants are intitled to a right of commonage on a large piece of wafte land called the common, given, for that purpofe^ by William Fitz-Robert, baron of Torrington, in the reign of Richard I. Here are ftill fome remains of a caftle, formerly of confiderable ftrength, and from whence feveral knights fees were held. Torrington has a large weekly market on Saturday, for corn, provifions, &c. and three annual fairs for the fale of cattle, held on the fourth of May, the fifth of July, and the tenth of October. From Torrington we pafTed over the ftone bridge al- ready mentioned, in our way to Hartland, a market- town fituated on a promontory, fhooting out a confider- able diftance into the fea, and called Hartland-point, one hundred and ninety-feven miles from London. Hartland is a populous town, frequented by the peo- ple of Cornwall, being fituated on the borders of that county; and alfo by the fifhermen of Biddeford, Barnftaple, and other places on the coaft ; for their vef- fels find fhelter under the rocks near this town, from the fouth-eaft and fouth-weft winds ; and, when the winds blow too hard for them to venture out, the feamen come afhore here, and purchafe provifions. At the fame time, Hartland itfelf has a very confiderable fhare of the her- ring fifhery on this coaft, and the cod taken here is faid to be the beft in the world, though not near fo plenty as on the banks of Newfoundland. Some time fince, a pier was erected at Hartland, by virtue of an act of parlia- ment obtained for that purpofe, and where veflels of con- fiderable burden find fhelter in bad weather. There is alfo a good quay here, but the defcent to it is very fteep, being cut out of the cliff. The church was formerly famous for containing the relics of St. Nectan, to whom it is dedicated, and ftill called Stoke St. Nectan. Giltha, the countefs of earl Goodwin, built an abbey here, and dedicated it to the above St. Nectan, whom fhe highly reverenced, from a perfuaiion, that by his merits her hufband efcaped fhipwreckin a dangerous tempeft. This abbey was delightfully fituated in a valley, where fome veftiges of the ftructure ftill remain. At the diflblution, it was valued at three hundred and fix pounds, three (hil- lings and two-pence per annum. Hartland has a weekly market on Saturday ; and two annual fairs for the fale of cattle ; the firft held on Eafter Wednefday, and the fecond on the twenty-fifth of Sep- tember. After viewing the town of Hartland, we embarked on board a fmall fifhing-veftel in the pier, and failed to Lun- dy ifland, which lies about eleven miles to the north- ward of Hartland-point, in the Briftol channel : mod writers indeed, by a Arrange miftake, fay, the diftance is fifty miles. It is five miles long, and two broad ; but fo encompafled with inacceflible rocks, that there is only one landing-place, and that fo remarkably narrow, that hardly two men can walk a-breaft. It had once both a fort and a chapel, but they are now both in ruins. At the northern extremity of the ifland is a remarkable rock, at fome diftance from the fhore, called the Conftable, The foil, in the fouthern parts of the ifland, is pretty good, and affords pafture for great numbers of black cat- tle, horfes and fheep : the northern parts are not fo fer- tile, but feed many goats, and plenty of rabbits. It is very remarkable, that though Lundy is entirely feparated by the fea, it has feveral perennial fprings of fine frefti water ; and the inhabitants affirm, that no venomous creature will live in the ifland ; at leaft, that there are none at prefent, nor ever have been any in the memory H 36 D E V O of man. Wild-fowl frequent this iflnnd in prodigious flocks ; and their eggs lie Co thick on the ground, at the proper feafon, that it is difficult to walk without treading upon fome of them. In the reign of Henry VIII. one William Morifco having failed in an attempt to murder that prince at Woodftock, fled to this ifland, which he fortified, turned pirate, and took many veffels in the channel. The ifland was, however, at laft taken bv fur- prize, and Morefco, with fixteen of his accomplices, put to death. From Lundy we returned to Hartland in the fame veffel, and continued our route to Biddeford, a large town fituated on the river Touridge, a little above its junction with the Taw, one hundred and ninety-feven miles from London. It is governed by a mayor, alder- men, a town-clerk, ferjeants at mace, and other offi- cers ; and has a peculiar court, to which civil actions are brought, and determined for any fum. It is a clean, well-built, populous town , and the ftreet, running pa- rallel with the river, is three quarters of a mile in length, decorated with the cuftom-houfe, an elegant building ; and a noble quay before it, where fhips load and unload in the very heart of the town. Befides this, there is an- other ftreet of confiderable length, and as broad as the high-ftreet at Exeter, adorned with good buildings, and inhabited by wealthy merchants. This town has a large' church, and a handfome meet- ing-houfe, together with a noble bridge over the river Touridge, built in the fourteenth century, confifting of twenty-four beautiful and ftately Gothic arches. The foundation is Hill very firm, though the ftructure fhakes with the leaf! ftep of a horfe. This edifice was erected by fubfeription, which was greatly increafed by the en- thufiaftic notions that then prevailed. It feems that va- rious attempts had been made before to erect a bridge over the river, that the many fatal accidents continually happening at the ferry, might, for the future, be pre- vented ; but no firm foundation could be difcovered for erecting a ftructure of this kind. While they were en- gaged in thefe fiuitlefs attempts, one Sir Richard Go- mer, then prieft of Biddeford, was informed in a vifion, that a folid foundation would be found near a rock, which he would find rolled from the higher ground upon the ftrand. In the morning, on vifitingthe place, he found a prodigious rock upon the fand, which nothing but fu- pernatural power could have placed there. This dream he told to the bifhop of thediocefe, who immediately if- fued indulgences, with licence to collect the benevolence of all perfons in the bifhoprick. This had the defired effect, and multitudes of well-difpofed perfons contri- buted liberally towards finifhing a work, in favour of which, they were perfuaded, heaven had interefted itfelf. By thefe fubferiptions, the undertakers were not only enabled to finilh the ftructure, but alfo to purchafe lands for keeping it in repair. The rents of thefe lands are Hill received, and laid out, or otherwife accounted for, by a bridge-warden chofen by the corporation. The trade of Biddeford is very confiderable, both fo- reign and domeftic. Ships of very large burden come up to the quay, fo that the merchants are enabled to carry on their bufinefs with the Weft Indies, the colonies on the continent of America, Newfoundland and Ireland, from whence it is an eftablifhed port for wool, as well as Barnftaplc. Between fixty and feventy fail of large mips belong to this port, many of which are employed in the Newfoundland fifhery. Befides thefe, fhips are conti- nually fending to Liverpool and Warrington for rock- falt, which they melt here in fea-water, and then boil the brine into a frefh fait: this they call fait upon fait, and u r e it in curing herrings, which are taken in great quantities in the bays and creeks near this town. Biddeford has a very good weekly market, held on Tuefday ; and three annual fairs for the fale of cattle, viz. the fourteenth of February, the eighteenth of July, and the thirtieth of November. Near Biddeford, at a place called the Burrows, on the north coaft of Barnftaple bay, are an amazing quantity of very large and beautiful pebbles, fo regularly veined, and variegated with fuch elegant colours, that they ap- pear to be the work of art rather than nature. This N SHIR E, bank of pebbles is near tkree miles long, nn and laid the firft ftone of that ftructure, putting under it feveral pieces of his late Majefty's coin, the upper part of it having the following infeription : Tcmplum hoc Dei Opt. Max. Gloria^ Bt Hominum indies peccantiutn Saluti^ Sacrum, Erigi voluit Pietas pullica* jtbfit tamen, Shied inter ignota Nomina O Reverend? 5P S O M E R S Reverend! admodum in Chrifto Pat/is Joseph i Butler, Nuper Bristoliensis Epifcopi y Lateat Nomen ! D. D. D. 4 co/. "Jam turn ad Dunelmenfes migraturus. This Church, Sacred to the All-mighty and All-gracious God, And the Salvation of frail Sinners, Was erected by the Public Piety. Yet, Far be it from us to conceal, Among obfeure Names, The reverend Father in God, Joseph Butler, Late Bifhop of Briftol, Who Confecrated to this pious Ufc, Four Hundred Pounds, When juft tranflated to the See of Durham. On the lower part of the ftone was this infeription : Regnant e Georgia Seeundo, Jitfto, Clementi, Forti, Angidarem hunc Lapidcm y 5 Non. Mart. 1752. Pofuit David Pclloquin, Civitatis Briftol. Prator. In the Reign of George II. The juft, the gracious, and the valiant, On the 5th of March, 1752. This corner-ftone was laid By David Pelloquin, Mayor of the City of Briftol. We cannot here omit one obfervation we made when wc vifited the churches at Briftol, much to the honour of the citizens ; we mean, the neatnefs obferved in their ftruclures dedicated to religion, and the care that is taken in preferving the monuments, and inferiptions on them to the memory of the dead ; a practice fcandaloufly neglected in moft other places in England. This care of the monuments of the deceafed draws to their churches many ftrangers, who are always pleafed with it, and too often draw comparifons very little to the credit of other places. How often do we fee a monument, erected at a great expence of the famiiy, fu fie red to decay, and the very infeription, intended to perpetuate the memory of the deceafed, obliterated, though profefledly dedicated to pcfterity ; by which means, it becomes rather a monu- ment of the ingratitude and neglect of the furvivors, than an honour to the deceafed. In this city there are no lefs than eighteen charitable foundations, generally called Hofpitals, viz. 1. Queen Elizabeth's hofpital, which, before the dif- folution of monafterics, was a collegiate church, founded by Sir Henry Gaunt ; but afterwards converted into an hofpital by T. Carre, a wealthy citizen, who is (uppofed to have lived in the reign of queen Elizabeth, and to have given her name to this hofpital. In the year 1706, it was rebuilt, and further endowed with contributions, and is now large enough for one hundred boys: they are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, navigation, tkc. and, when they are qualified to go out, are at liberty to chufe a mailer, cither for land or fca-fervice, and have eight guineas given with them, as an apprentice- fee. Six of thefe boys, who are upon Mr. Colfton's eftablifhment, have ten pounds given with each. The mayor and al- dermen are the vifitors of this feminary, and by them the treafurer is cholcn. The boys maintained by this cha- rity, are drefted nearly in the fame manner as thofe of Chrift's Hofpital in London. 2. Colfton's hofpital, on St. Auftin's Back, founded by EdwarJ Colfton, Efq; for one hundred -boys, who arc taught and maintained in this hofpital feven years, when they are put out apprentices, in the fame manner as thofe in queen Elizabeth's hofpital. The matter is allowed one thoufimd pounds a year for the maintenance E T S H I R E. of thefe boys. The founder purchased land? in fevcral parts of Somerfetfhire, and fettled the revenues on this foundation. The merchants company are the re-eivers of thefe rents, and alfo infpectors of this charity. Eighty ' of thefe boys muft be the fons of freemen of Briftol, but the other twenty are from different parts of the county. They are drefted like the former, except their caps, which are black ; and the lining of their blue coats of an orange colour, whereas thofe of the former are white. 3. Colfton's Hofpital on St. Michael's Hill. This hofpital was founded by the above Edward Colfton, Efq; in the year 1691, at the expence of twenty-five thoufand pounds. The front and fides of the building are faced with free-ftone; and contains twenty-four apartments for twelve men and twelve women, who have each an al- lowance of three fhillings a week, and twenty-four facks of coals a year: the elder brother has fix millings a week; and the governor has an apartment and garden, with a handfome allowance. There is a neat chapel belonaino- to the hofpital, where prayers are read twice every dav^ except when they are read at St. Michael's church, and every penfioner is obliged to attend. 4- An hofpital adjoining to the merchants hall, in King-ftreet, founded partly by Edward Colfton, Efq; and partly by the merchants, for thirty poor men and women. Each of the penfioners has two Ihillingsa week, befides coals. 5. A large fchool and dwelling-houfe in Tcmple- ftreet, built and endowed by the above Mr. Colfton, who purchafed the ground for it in 1696. Here forty boys are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic, and clothed in fhort grey habits, with caps and bands ; but their pa- rents find them neceflaries. The mafter's falary is paid out of the veftry of that parifh, by perfons who' have the entire management of the fchool. 6. Fofter's Hofpital, fituated on St. Mary's Hill, for fix men and eight women, who are allowed two fhillings a week each. 7. St. Nicholas's Alms-houfe, fituated in King-ftreet, It was founded by Mr. Daniel Adams ; and confifts of fixteen rooms, inhabited by thirteen women and three men, who have each an allowance of one {hilling and ten-pence a week. 8. An alms-houfe in Peter-ftreet, built by alderman Aldworth, for eight widows; but they have no allow- ance. 9. Merchant Taylors hofpital, in Merchant-ftreet, where two men and nine women have each two fhillings and fixpence a week, befides a dinner, and one {hilling a piece, once a quarter. 10. St John's Hofpital, fituated in the Old Market, for twelve women, who are allowed two fhillings a week each, befides a fack of. coals, and one {billing a piece at Chriftmas. 11. Another hofpital, built oppofite to the former, for twelve men and twelve women, who are allowed two {hillings and four-pence a week each, befides wafhing. Thefe two hofpitals are faid to have been founded by one Mr. Barnfiaple. 12. Alderman Stephens's hofpital, fituated in the fame ftreet, for twelve women, who have one (hilling and fix- pence a week each. 13. An hofpital on Radclifr-hiil, faid to have been founded by Sir William Penn. Some of the poor in this ho ufc have an allowance, others none. 14. An hofpital, or woik-houfe, built by the people called Quaker?, near the Narrow Weir. j 5. Dr. White's hofpital, in Tern pie- ftreet, for nine men and three women, who have each an allowance of two fhillings and fixpence a week, and gowns once in three years. 16. A Bridewell, between Wine-ftreet and St. James's; and, adjoining to it, a work-houfe, calbd Whitehall. 17. An old alms-houfe without Temple-gate, inha- bited by fourteen poor people, but without any allow- ance. 18. St. Peter's hofpital, opened on the twenty-ninth of June 1738. It is an infirmary for the fick and dif- trefied poor of this city, eftablifned on the fame plan as , thofe of London and VVcftminftcr. Very liberal cor/trU butions v^^^> ^^^^^^ ^ Vol. i, 5P SOMERSETSHIRE. Revcrcndi aclmodum in Chr'tjlo Pain's Joseph i Butler, Nuper Bristoliensis Epifcopi> Latcat Nomen ! n r» n . of thefe boys. The founder purchafed lands in feveral parts of Somcrfetfhire, and fettled the revenues on this foundation. The merchants company are the receivers of thefe rents, and alfo infpectors of this charity. Eighty nf fhpfr bans muft he the fnns nf freemen of RriftnL hnf UI U1C Vlli^/vi.o , »« ...i~..-, — . ._ ftruclures dedicated to religion, and the care that is taken in preferving the monuments, and inferiptions on them to the memory of the dead ; a practice fcandaloufly neglccled in moft other places in England. This care of the monuments of the deceafed draws to their churches fixteen rooms, inhabited by thirteen women and three men, who have each an allowance of one {hilling and ten-pence a week. 8. An alms-houfe in Peter-ftreet, built by alderman Aldworth, for eieht widows : hurt-hew have m<-> oil™.. V^lll ill ■ mil ... . 2. Colfton's hofpital, on St. Auftin's Back, founded by Edwarg Colfton, Efq; for one hundred boys, who arc taught and maintained in this hofpital feven years, when they are put out apprentices, in the fame manner as thofe in queen Elizabeth's hofpital. The maftcr is allowed one thouland pounds a year for the maintenance J thofc cf London and Wcltminfkr. 17. An old alms-houfe without Temple-gate, inha- bited by fourteen poor people, but without any allow- ance. 18. St. Peter's hofpital, opened on the twenty-ninth of June 1738. It is an infirmary for the fick and dif- trefied poor of this city, eftablifned on the fame plan as :ry liberal cor/trL, butions S O M E R S E tuitions have been made towards fupporting this ufeful charity ; particularly, by the late John Elbridge, Efq; comptroller of the cuftoms here, who, befides feveral other charitable donations, bequeathed five thoufand pounds to this infirmary. He had, fome time before, built and endowed a charity-fchool on St. Michael's > hill, for educating and cloathing a certain number of poor girls. The walls of this city were partly razed in the time of William Rufus ; but fome portion of them ftill remains, and called the Portwall, between Harrez-tower, on Temple-back ; and the glafs-houfe, on Radcliff-back, near the Avon. This wall has two gates, Radcliff-gate, and Temple-gate, erected at the end of two long ftreets of the fame name ; and between which St. Thomas's- ftreet runs, in a parallel direction, towards the bridge. The other gates are that of St. Nicholas, at the north end of the bridge, over which is the tower of St. Nicho- las's church ; Backftreet-gate, and Marfh-gate, leading to Queen-fquare ; St. Leonard's and St. Giles's gates, leading from Corn-ftreet and Small-ftreet, to the quay ; St. John's gate, and its tower over it, at the lower end of Broad-ftrcet ; Needlefs-gate, leading to Broad-mead ; the Pithay gate, leading to St. James's church-yard ; Froome-gate, leading to the College, and St. Au- ftin's-back, or quay ; Newgate, at the lower end of Wine-ftreet, the prifon both for debtors and malefactors ; and Caftle-gate, where the caftle formerly flood, leading to a very broad ftrect, called the Old Market, which terminates at Lawford's-gate, the entrance from the London and Gloucefter roads. The fituation of this city is low, but on the declivity of a hill. The ground-plot of it is faid to refcmble that of ancient Rome, being nearly circular, and divided into two parts by the Avon. The part on the Gloucefterfhire fide of the city is four miles and a half in circumference, and that on the Somerfetfhire fide two miles and a half ; fo that the whole circumference of the city is feven miles. It is fuppofed to contain thirteen thoufand houfes, and nine- ty-five thoufand inhabitants. The north and fouth parts of the city are connected by a ftone bridge over the Avon, confifting of four lofty and fpacious arches ; but the paffage over it is encum- bered with houfes built on each fide of it, which renders the paffage on foot not only inconvenient, but dangerous, there being no room for pofts, to prevent accidents. The ftreets are narrow, ill-paved, and irregular ; and the houfes, in general, built like thofe in London, before the fire in 1666, with the upper floors projecting beyond the lower; they are alfo crowded clofe together, end many of them five or fix ftorics high. The afcent to St. Michael's-hill is fo fteep, that near an hundred ftone fteps are laid in the ground, at proper diftances. They draw all their heavy goods here upon carriages -without wheels, called Sleds or 1 Sledges ; for carts are not allowed to be ufed, for fear of fhaking and damaging -the arches of the vaults and fewers, cr fubterraneous paf- fages, for carrying the filth of the city into the river. This renders the pavement fo very fmpoth and flippery, that it is dangerous walking in frolty weather. The place which, in Camden's time, was called the Marfh, and had rope-walks all round it, is now called Queen-fquare, it having, of late years, been furrounded with very good houfes, inhabited by gentry and mer- chants. The houfes are fronted partly with brick, and partly with ftone, and the fquare reckoned larger than any in London, except Lincoln's-inn-fields. On the north fide of it is the Cuftom-houfe, and the area laid out in walks of trees, which lead to a curious equeftrian fta- -tue caking William HI. placed in the center, and exe- cuted by the famous Mr. Ryfbrack. The guild-hall, where the feftions and aflizes, as well as the mayor and fherifFs courts, are held, is iituated in Broad-ftreet; and, adjoining to it, is a fpacious lofty room, called St. George's Chapel, in which the mayor -and fherifFs are annually chofen. In the front of the guild-hall is a figure of king Charles II. At the upper end of Corn-ftreet is a new council- houfe, where the mayor and aldermen meet every day, except Sundays, to adminifter juftice ; and below it is the T S H I R E. gf« Tholfey, where there are feveral fhort ftone pillars hav- ing their tops covered with broad brafs plates, with in* ft fenptions on them : they were erected by the merchants, | for the benefit of writing, or counting money ; for hen* the merchants formerly met, and transacted bufinefs, as • they do on the Royal Exchange in London. But, as their meeting in the open air not only expofed them to the weather, but alfo to the noifeof flcds and coaches patting to and from the quay; the citizens ob-. 1 tained an acl: of parliament, in the year 1 7 33, for build-, ing a regular Exchange. This act was room after car- ried into execution; and, on the tenth of March J740-J, the firft ftone of the edifice was laid by the mayor, with great ceremony, feveral pieces of gold and filver coin placed under it, and on it the following infeription : Regndnte Georgto II. Pio, Felid, Augufto Lihcrtatis ct Rei Mercatoritg, Doml Forifque Vindice, primariam La- pi dem bujufce /Edificii Sujj'ragio Civium, et Mre publico e.»4 trafii, pojuit Henricus Combe Prator, A. C. MDCCXL. ufes, for manufacturing plate glafs, drink- ing-glaffes, &c. particularly bottles, for which there is a great demand at the Hot-well, and Bath, for export- ing the mineral waters at thefe places. Thefe glafs-houfes are fupplied with coals from the pits at Kingswood, and Mendip-hills ; and it is remark- able, that though coals are brought fome miles by land carriage, yet they are generally laid down at the doors of the inhabitants at feven, eight, or nine fhillings per chaldron. Here are thirteen incorporated companies, viz. i. the Merchant-adventurers, who have a handfome hall, and lands to a confiderable value. 2. The Merchant Tay- lors, who have a very large hall, lately rebuilt of free- ftone ; it is near feventy feet long, and of a proportional breadth. 3. The Mercers. 4. The Soap-boilers and Chandlers. 5. The Tobacconifts. 6. The Butchers. 7. The Barber Surgeons. 8. The Tylers. 9. The Holliers, or Carmen. 10. The Shoemakers. 11. The Coopers. 12. The Bakers. 13. The Smiths. All thefe have halls of their own or hire large rooms for their meetings. The city is fupplied with water by feveral public con- duits, viz. one in Bread-ftreed, one in Corn-ftreet, one at the Fifh-market, near the end of the quay, another at St. Auftin'sback, one in Peter-ftreet, one inTemple- ftreet, and another in Thomas-ftreet. Near the city is a hill called Brandon-hill, made ufe of by the laundrefles for drying their linen, which is carried thither upon fledges, and the ground is faid to have been given to the city for that purpofe, by Queen Elizabeth. At the foot of this hill is a fpring called Jacob's well, and near it the old theatre were plays were acted fome years fince during the fummer feafofl*. It was built for that purpofe by the late celebrated come- dian Mr. Hippilley, who was a native of Briftol. Bi^f. fince the new theatre has been erected, the old heufe has been laid afide. Near the old theatre is a very hand- fome allembly room, where the company meet in the fummer 5 and the old theatre in Stokes-croft, is stffd changed into an aftenibly-room, which is open every Tuefday during the winter. On the 25th of Auguft 174.7, there happened here a violent ftorm of thunder, lightning and rain ; and what was very furprizing, the bufhes on the hill, near Jacob's well, were obferved to be fuddenlv on lire, and continued burning for fome time even after the ftorm was over, though it rained violently. It is imagined they were fct on fire by the lightning, which rulhed down in an aftonifhing manner. The northern lights or aurora borealis, was exceedingly luminous, darting forth its corrufcations of pale light, which feemed to rife from the horizon in a pyramidical, undulating form, fhooting with great velocity up to the zenith. ° In the North f'uburb of this city, Robert, eavl of Gloucettcr, and natural lbn to Henry 1. built a priory of Benedictine monks, dedicated to St. James, and made- it a cell to the abbey of Tewkfbury in Gloucefterfnire. Here was alfo a college called the Calehdaries, bcino- a fraternity of the clergy and commonality of Briftol^ before the reign of Edward III. This Society was va- lued upon the luppreffion at ten pounds eighteen (billings and eight pence per annum. In the year 1148 Robert Fitz-Harding, mayor of Briftol, founded a priory of Auguftines, dedicated to St. Auguftine; and towards the reign of Henry IL changed it into an abbey, whofe yearly revenues, at the dillblution, amounted to fix hundred and feventy pounds thirteen fhillings and eleven pence. This abbey had \ church, which Henry VIII. when he fupprefied the pri- ory, erected into a cathedral, by the name of the cathe- dral church of the Holy Trinity. On the North fide of the city was a nunnery, dedi-> cated to St. Mary Magdalen, and -faid to have been founded by Eva, the widow of Robert Fitz-Harding^ in the reign of Henry II. It was valued upon the dillblution at twenty one pounds, eleven fhillings, and three pence, per annum. In the fuburbs, on the Gloucefter fide, there was an hofpital for lepers, erected fome time before the eighth year of the reign of Henry III. A houfe of Black friars was founded here by Sir Mau- rice Grant, about the year 1228. ,. A houfe of Grey friars was alfo founded in this city before the year 1234.; and a priory of White friars, in 1297, by king Edward I. Near the Temple-gate ftood a houfe of Auguftine friars, founded by Sir Simon and Sir William Monta* cute, about the beginning of the reign of Edward II. The principal markets in the city are held on Wed- nefdays, Fridays and Saturdays ; befides which there is a market every Thurfday in Thames-ftrect, for cattle. Here are alfo two annual fairs held on the twenty-fifth of January, and the twenty-fifth of July, for all forts of goods. The latter of which is called St. James's, or the fummer fair, is held on the Gloucefter fide, about St. James's church-yard ; and the former, called St. Paul's, or the winter fair, is held in Temple-ftreet, on the Somerfetfhire fide. Thefe fairs hold fome time, and many of the Londoners have fhops in both. About two miles from the city of Briftol are St. Vincent's rocks. A vaft and irregular heap of ftones, of different kinds ; but their general fubftance is lime- ftone, and extremely hard. Among this pile of rocks, is one particularly remark- able, and out of which iffues the famous water called the Hot-well water, and fometimes Briftol water. This rock is fituated on the North-fide of the river Avon, and affords a profpect at once romantic and beau- tiful. As this water paifes through a vaft bed of rocks, and a variety of different fubftances, it doubtlefs borrows its tafte and virtues from the moft particular kinds ; and, SOMERSETSHIRE. 53 and, when drank at the fpring-head, has a fine gentle i warmth, and a delicate, foft milky tafte ; it is very- grateful to the ftomach, and extremely ferviceable in many complaints. It is generally allowed to be cooling, cleanfing, and balfamic ; but, one of its molt remarkable qualities is, its gentle aftringency: this renders it ufeful, if not a fpecific, in that terrible complaint the diabetes ; and, in confequence of its other qualities, it is drank, with great fuccefs, in obftructions of the urinary paffages from gra- vel ; as alfo, in many chronic cafes, from which very little relief can be hoped by the common courfe of me- dicine. Its cooling quality renders it of great ufe in internal inflammations ; and, by its aftringency, it ftrengthens the ftomach, promotes an appetite, and aflifts digeftion ; and, at the fame time, does not affect the tafte of the food, a circumftance too common with mineral waters, and which renders their ufe difagreeable. When the lungs are too much affected, its ufe is to be avoided ; but, in the firft ftages of thofe fatal diftempers, it will prove of the utmoft fervice. Befides the internal ufe of this water, many perfons, who have weak and inflamed eyes, find great benefit from it : they take it warm from the pump, in fome little cup; and, with a bit of foft rag, wafh their eyes pretty often with it : this, in time, cools the part, takes off the inflammation, and greatly ftrengthens the fight. There is alfo another advantage attending the hot- well., and from which many people have received great benefit ; we mean, bathing in the water. In order to this, feveral little baths, for one perfon at a time, are conftructed near the well : thefe baths are chiefly fre- quented by thofe afflicted by fome kind of weaknefs. When perfons firft make ufe of thefe baths, they ima- gine it rather weakens than ftrengthens them; but a little perfeverance fufficiently convinces them of their miftake, as they find, by happy experience, that they gather ftrength every day. Many perfons in health often make ufe of thefe baths, in order to refrefh themfelves. The water which fills thefe little baths, is the fame with that which is drank ; but, by the time it is pumped up, through the cold leaden pipes, into thefe ftone baths, very little warmth can be perceived. Thefe baths are ufually befpoke over night by thofe who chufe to bathe early, and they are fure to find them ready at the hour appointed, for which they pay one fhilling each time, the bath being frefh filled for every perfon. The method obferved in drinking thefe waters, is this : at firft coming, the perfon goes to the pump-room in the morning, and drinks a glafs or two before breakfaft ; and returns about five in the afternoon, when one or two more are drank. The next day, he takes three glaffes before breakfaft, and three in the afternoon, and this he continues during his whole ftay. Each of thefe glaffes holds the third part of a pint ; but, it muft not be fuppofed that the patient drinks three of thefe glaffes of water, one immediately after the other; half an hour, by the pump-clock, is the time allowed be- tween glafs and glafs; and, during this interval, he either continues in the pump-room, where there is a good band of mufic during the feafon, or walks by the fide of the Avon, where he is diverted by the number of fhips and veffels pafling up and down with the tide, which runs here very rapidly. The tafte of the water is fo agreeable, that the drinking this quantity is far from a tafk ; 'tis univerfally done with plcafure, and many are as fond of it as of wine. Beiides the fix glaffes already mentioned, feveral take an additional glafs an hour before dinner, which many have found ufeful ; but this is not univerfal, nor fhould it be done but when the water increafes the appetite. Some alfo fend for the water to their lodgings, and drink it, either alone, or mixed with their wine, and make their tea with it. By this method, the advantages arifing from drinking the waters are increafed. Every thing confpires to render the drinking of Briftol water agreeable. The accommodations of all kinds are excellent; the people, in general, obliging; and thofe belonging to the hot well, particularly fo. There is al- ways good company during the feafon, which lafts from April to September, and many innocent diveriions and amufements. For thofe who love riding, there is one of the fineft countries in the world : the downs are fpacious and open, and the air pure and healthy; at the fame time, the eye is delighted with the moft agreeable pro- fpects. The vaft fheet of water, called King-road, at the mouth of the Avon, exhibits a very beautiful fcene, from the number and variety of fhips and veffels with which its furface is often covered ; while the W elfh moun- tains, with their heads in the clouds, terminate the view. Upon the hill, at the foot of which the hot-well is fituated, ftands Clifton, one of the moft agreeable vil- lages in the kingdom. Here many of the company, that frequent the hot-well, have their lodgings. The profpect from this village and the adjoining mount is beautiful beyond defcription ; and the air of this particular fpot fo excellent, that it has been called the Englifh Montpelier. The company frequenting the hot-well is often very numerous ; and to that particular, the agreeablenefs of the place is, in fome meafure, owing. But all who have experienced the benefit of thefe waters, often wonder that the company is not ftill more numerous. Every fine Sunday, indeed;, during the fumrner, the place is crowded during the whole day, prodigious num- bers of people coming from Briftol, and every other part of the adjacent country, to drink .the waters ; but thefe go in at a back-door, and do not interrupt the better fort of company. To whatever principles thefe waters owe their virtues^ it is fufficiently evident, that they are intimately con- nected with their fubftance ; for, when a gallon of Briftol water has been evaporated, there fcarcely remains any thing in the veffel ; whereas there remains, after the eva- poration of other medicinal waters, a fait, or other fub- ftance, poffefling the fame virtues. This abundantly proves, that the virtues of Briftol water are inherent, and not owing to any accidental mixture with it ; and, for that reafon, it keeps better than any other medicinal water whatever. Vaft quantities of air-bubbles rife in a glafs of it frefh filled, and expofed to the fun ; which has induced fome to affert, that its virtues are owing to its being impregnated with air. But, to whatever principle its virtues are owing, it is evident, that the fpring muft be fupplied from fome vaft refource. Like moft other fountains, it rifes in wet weather, and falls in dry; fo that it has many things in common with waters of much lefs virtue. But it mult be obferved, that they are obliged to leave off pumping a few hours in the day, always a day or two before, and two or three days after every new and full moon. This is, however, entirely owing to the accidental fituation of the fpring near the bed of the Avon ; fo that on fpring-tides the fait water from the river Avon ge- nerally rife high enough to break in upon the hot-well fpring, except in times of great rains, when the fpring is very full, and thence, in a great meafure, it refifts the fpring-tides, fo that they affect it very little. This formidable difadvantage in appearance, is, in re± ality, but very trifling : the fpring is fo confidcrable, that it will bear continual pumping ; and a very few hours of this, even in the very worft of times, renders the water as bright and pure as it was before the accident. There is fomething at once both very lingular and very fti iking in the nature of this fpring. The face of the adjacent country is the very fame to a great extent : the rocks run all over it in the fame manner, the bed of the Avon itfelf being nothing more than a cut through them* and not any real feparation of one kind of foil or country from another. Yet, though we fee, on the other fide of the Avon, the fame kind of rocks, compofed of the fame kind of lime-ftone, and every Way fimilar to thofe on this fide, out of which the hot-well iffues ; and, at the fame time, perceive fprings iffuing from them in the very fame form and manner; yet, the waters of thefe fprings have not the leaft affinity ; that of the hot-well being warm, foft, and medicinal ; while that facing it, on the oppofite fhore, is as hard, cold, and ample fpring-water, as anv in the world. P It SOMERSETSHIRE. 54 It feems evident, that the true fource of the virtues of Briftol water, is that prodigious rock of lime-ftone through which it runs before it reaches the hot-well. We know the qualities of lime-ftone ; and we alfo know, they are fuch as would give the very fame virtues to water, as thofe of Briftol poffefs : it is therefore highly reafonable to conclude, that they derive their virtues from thofe amazing quantities of lime-ftone rocks, which extend to a great diftance round the hot- well. But, at the fame time, we fee water ilfuing from the fame rocks, on the other fide of the Avon, without the leaft mark of poifeffing any quality more than what is found in common fpring-water. This is very lingular, and would almoft induce one to think, that nature has not fuffered this water to waih the very rocks among which it pafles. We have already obferved, that the rocks near the hot-well are compofed of that hard matter called Lime- ftone, and which is ufed for burning into lime. They are a kind of marble, but confiderably harder than the common kinds, and of a clofer grain. They take a good polifh, and look very beautiful. The polifhed chimney- piece in the pump-room at the hot-well, is cut out of one of thefe rocks, and makes a very elegant appearance. There is fome variety in the colour of thefe rocks, but it is, in general, dark and dufky : a flate or lead colour, with a blueifh caft, is the molt common ; but fome have a black ground, ftreaked or fpotted with white. The people who live in the neighbourhood are per- mitted to take any quantity of thefe rocks, which are blown up for thefe purpofes by means of gunpowder, and for which the men, who get their livelihood by this bufinefs, are allowed fix-pence or feven-pence a ton, the employer finding tools and gunpowder. The method they take is very fimple, eafy, and effec- tual. Two men are generally employed for this pur- pofe; one of whom holds in his hand the boring-tool, or bar of iron, having its point formed into a kind of chiflel ; and the other a hammer. The perfon who manages the boring-tool, takes, at firft, one of about two feet in length, fixing the point of it upon fuch a part of the rock as he thinks will beft fuit his purpofe ; and the other ftrikes on the other end of it with a hammer. The blows are repeated ; and the bar being turned every time the perfon ftrike, it makes its way into the ftone. When a fmall hole is made, they pour water into it; and, as they go on boring, they, from time to time, clean out the hole, in the fame man- ner as they clean a gun-barrel. The bar of iron, or boring-tool, is about three inches in circumference ; and, by this manner of working it, a hole is made fome- thing larger than itfelf, and of a depth nearly equal to its length. They then take a longer bar, and fo on, to their longelf, which is fix feet, if the nature of the rock they are at work upon requires it ; the depth of the hole being always in proportion to the quantity of ftone they propofe to remove. When the hole is thus made of the depth they chufe, they clean it well out, and make it dry ; then they put in a quantity of gunpowder, proportional to the hole they have made in the rock ; fometimes not more than half a pound, and fometimes two or three pounds. When the powder is put in, they thruft down a fmall wire, and leave it in the hole, extending from the powder to the furface; and then make up fome very ftiff clay, or other fubftance of that kind, and ram it into the hole ex- tremely firm, filling the top of the hole entirely, and in the ftrongeft manner. The clay, &c. being firmly fixed, they draw out the wire, by which a touch-hole is made quite down to the powder ; they fill this touch- hole alfo with powder, lay a train from thence to a con- iiderable diftance, and a piece of lighted touch-wood at the extremity, leaving it to take effect. Care muft be taken to retire, for the effect of the gun- powder is very violent. Some tons of ftone are gene- rally loofened by the blaft ; and, frequently, pieces of two or three pounds weight are thrown, like cannon-fhot, to a confiderable diftance. They are not, however, always alike fuccefsful in thefe blows, as they call them j for though they fome- times loofen many more tons at a blow than they expect $ yet they as often mifcarry. Among the rocks in this neighbourhood, there are found great quantities of fmall cryftals, generally known by the name of Briftol-ftones. They are, for the moft part, clear and colourlefs ; a few are tincfured, but the colours are faint, and feem accidental. They are natu- rally as well polifhed as if they came from the hands of the lapidary ; and are found in vaft number? in the cracks of the rocks, and chafms of ftoncs, but chiefly in the cavities of iron ore. They are principally ufed in em- bellifhing grottos, &c. for which they feem admirably adapted. They are found, in great variety of forms, in different places, and the clufters of them are ftill more various in their appearance. About Clifton, they referable table- diamonds ; and fome of them, where the pyramids ftand upright, and are broad and fhort, have, at firft view, the appearance of rofe diamonds. In fome places, the clufters are fmall, fhort and numerous; and in thefe the angles are fo many, and the light fo varioufly re- flected, that they appear like clufters of fmall brilliants fet in fome large piece of work by a jeweller. Perhaps there are few pieces of art that equal thefe clufters in beauty, when the light falls properly upon them. About King's Wefton, the clufters rife higher, and are more irregular, the fmall fhoots being fo blended one with another, that the particular form of each is loft; but the appearance of the whole is very romantic and beautiful. Several of thefe are of the ftrangeft figures that can be conceived ; fome Ihoot up in the form of the large teeth of animals, while others refemble the fpires and turrets of old cathedrals, and the ornaments of Gothic buildings. Though thefe ftones generally adhere to the rock or ore at one end, and terminate in a point at the other ; yet, this is not univerfal : fome lie flat, and grow to the ftone on one fide, and are pointed at both ends. Befides thefe, there are two other forts, which differ only as the column is longer or fhorter. In fome it is very long, and the whole body refembles a fine fhoot of falt-petre ; in others, it is fhorter ; and, in many, fo fhort, that it is hardly feen ; the top only of the pyramid is confpicuous. But, however they may differ in thefe particulars, they are each compofed of a column, or ftem of fix fides, and terminated by a point fhaped like a pyramid, and com- pofed alfo of fix fides. Wherever there is a crack between the folid parts of the ftone, or wherever there is a cavity in a lump of iron ore, thefe cryftals are found. If the crevice be fmall, the cryftals are alfo fmall ; if large, the cryftals are larger in proportion. But the largeft and fineft of all are found in the great cavities of a kind of reddifh ftone found plentifully here, and which is very rich in iron. In thefe cracks or cavities they encritft the whole fur- face, and often continue growing till their tops meet in the center ; fo that the whole fpace is filled up, except the vacancies between the feveral fhoots. The manner in which thefe cryftals grow is fomewhat remarkable. The bafe is compofed of a cruffc of coarfe, whitifh, and irregular cryftal, fpreadover the whole fur- face of the crack or cavity ; and, from the upper part of this cruft, rife the other cryftals, which are pure, fine, tranfparent, and of a regular figure. The laft only are properly called Briftol-ftones ; for the cruft or bed on which they grow, is not fo much regarded ; and thefe all confift of a fprig, terminated by a pyramid ; and, as thefe fprigs or columns are larger or fhorter, and as they are difpofed more or lefs regularly, they make a different ap- pearance. In general, the moft beautiful pieces are found in cavities moderately large, where the cruft is not too thick, the columns fhort and regular, and the cryftals not too much cluftered together. Such are the general forms and manners in which the cryftals, called Briftol-ftones, are found ; but the va- riety refulting from the form of the cracks, and the fize of the cavities, render the change in their fhape and ap- pearance almoft infinite. We have already obferved, that thefe cryftals grow particularly in lumps of iron ore ; and fhall now add, that S O U £ R S that great plenty of it is found in a!moft every corner of this diftrict. If the attempt of fmelting iron from the ore with pit-coal, fhould ever be completed, there is the gr e ateft reafon to think, the neighbourhood of Briftol will be one of the moll flouiifhing places in this king- dom ; for there is plenty, both of ore and pit-ccal, in thefe parts. Nor is iron the only metal found here: the rocks con- tain alfo veins of lead-ore : they are, indeed, fmall ; but, this is no reafon why they fhould not be worked ; for, very often, the larger!: and richeft veins make only a flight and inconfiderablc appearance when firft Jifcovered. Jn our furvey of thefe parts of the country, we often oblerved a very beautiful fort of ruftic work in the ftone facings of the gatewavs leading to gentlemen's houfes. We could not help admiring the beauty of this ruftic work, and forming comparifons between it and what we had feen elfewhere, not at all to the advantage of the latter. T he beauty of the ruftic-work feen about London conhfts in the great variety and ftudiecf irregularity of the appearance ; but this was infinitely excelled by what we now faw in the country. The raifed parts of the latter are not only thrown into a variety of forms and com- binations, not to be feen in the other ; but, the furface of thefe raifed parts is itfelf elegant beyond delcription. All the raifed parts are of a rounded form; and their furfaces, though not i'mooth and even, have a general afpect of equality; they are curdled, or waved, as it were, in a variety of directions, equal to that of the dif- pofition of the parts themlelves ; and fill the eye, with- out offending it, in a manner far fuperior to any thing we ever before law. When the beauty of thefe ruftic pieces induced us to take a nearer view, our admiration was increafed ; it ap- peared, not like a piece of common ruftic, but an imita- tion of fomething far more elegant. The depths of the hollows between the rifing parts is varied in fuch an a- mazing manner, that no two of them are alike ; and the Waving and curdlings on the furface gives every part an appearance of a piece of ruffic in miniature ; the whole being formed, like that of the mafs itfelf, into rifings of the moll elegant kind, with beautiful irregular hollows between them. We wereaftonilhed to fee fo much work, labour, and art, employed in places where, from the very nature of the fituation, few admirers of fuch works could be ex- pected ; but were foon undeceived : we found, that the hand of nature, without any affiftance from art, except that of putting them together, had formed thefe beauti- ful pieces of ruftic. , Near Cotham-houfe, at a fmall diftance from Briftol, we found a large bed of ftones, of which the above pieces of ruftic were formed. This ftone does not lie in a continued mafs, but in feparate lumps : many are about two feet and a half in length, and of a very irregular fi- gure; but generally of a round or oval form, and their thicknefs about eight or nine inches. But the external furface, however beautiful, is not comparable to the internal parts. The ftone is fo hard, that it will take a fine polilli, and exhibit a landfcape, like that formed by fome mafterly hand in painting. Rivers, mountains, grcttos, and all other objects rcqui- fite to form a beautiful picture, are here delineated by the pencil of nature. In one part of a ftone we particu- larly examined, (for they are not ail alike, the fame va- riety being found on the internal as on the external part) were minute fpecks of a dark colour, and irregular form, refembling clouds feen through fome diftant opening : in another part, the appearance of an open country ; and in others, trees, bulh.es, fhrubs, and hedges, interfperfed with brooks and rivers. The ground of the ftone is a dulky brown, but not the fame throughout, being fainter in fome pafts, and deeper in others. At the very bottom, there is generally a coat paler than all the reft ; and, at the top, where the ruftic rifings are cut through, it is paler than any of the other parts of the ftone, except the bottom. The reft is {haded with different degrees of brown ; while fome of the figures are blackifh, and the paleft of them darker than the reft of the ftone. E T S H I R E; 55 It is found, that whatever part of the ftone is cut in the fame direction, the fame figure will be exhibited ; fo that a great number of beautiful llabs may be cut out of each ftone. The gentlemen in the neighbourhood are not entirely ignorant of its beauty : they frequently pro- cure flabs to cut from it, which they polifti, and place in frames, where they exhibit a moft elegant appearance. We admire what is generally called Florentine llate, for its_ reprefenting ruins, and figures of the fame kind ; but this is not comparable to the^Cotham-ftone : the latter is as much fuperior to the former, as marble is to free-ftone. At King's Wefton, already mentioned in defcribing the Briftol ftones, is the houfe of John-Edward Southill, Efq; built by Sir John Vanburgh. It is in his heavy ftile ; and the hall, the only tolerable room in the whole edifice, rendered wholly ufelefs by a vaft echo. Before one of the chimneys is a prodigious pair of elk's horns, dug out of a bog in Ireland ; and a fine pidure of lord Thomas Cromwell, by Holbein. The lawn before the houfe is very beautiful; but the beft view of it is from a hill a little beyond the breakfaft- ing-houfe frequented by the company at the hot-well. To the left are beautiful woods, in the midft of which. Mr. Southill's houfe appears. In the front of the edifice is a very fine valley, near two miles broad, beautifully interfered with hedges and trees, and bounded by the Severn, which is here ten miles in breadth. Here you have alfo a view of King-road, terminated by the moun- tains of Wales. On the other fide, there is an extenfive view of the country, beautifully interfperfed with farms and villages. The windings of the Severn are feen for twenty miles, and thofe of the Avon quite to Briftol. Having furveyed the part of the country lying near the hot-well, we returned to Briftol, and from thence pur- Aied our journey towards Bath. In our way, we vifited Mr. Champion's copper-works, fituated about three miles from Briftol. Here the whole procefs of the copper and brafs manufactures is exhibited, from the fmelting of the ore, to the forming it into plates, wire, pans, veflels, pins, &c. After the ore is feveral times melted, it is poured into a flat mould of ftone, by which means it is formed into thin plates about four feet long, and three broad. Thefe plates are cut lengthways into feventeen ftripes, and thefe again, by particular machines, into many more very narrow ones, and drawn out to the length of feventeen feet, which are again drawn into wires, and done up in bundles of forty {hillings value each. About an hundred of thefe bundles ©f wire are made here every week, and each of thefe bundles makes an hundred thoufand pins. The wires are cut into pro- per lengths, and the whole procefs completed here 4 em- ploying a great number of girls, who, with little ma- chines worked by their feet, point and head the pins with fuch expedition, that each of them will do a pound and a half in a day. The heads are fpun by a woman, with a wheel refembling a common fpinning-wheel ; and > then feparated from one another by a man, with another little machine like a pair of fheers. It may not be improper to obferve here, that copper is changed into brafs, by being melted with a certain quantity of lapis calaminaris mixed with powdered char- coal. Seven pounds of the above mixture are put into a melting-pot, with five pounds of copper, and the whole changed by the fire into brafs. Great quantities of auk ward pans and difties are alfo call here, for the ufe of the negroes on the coaft of Africa. All the machines in thefe works are put in mo- tion by means of water, which, after palling over the water-wheels, is again thrown back into the mill-pond by means of a prodigious fire-engine, which raifes near three thoufand hogfheads every minute. This is reckoned one of the fineft and beft conftructed engines in the world. In our way from Briftol to Bath, we pafied through Keynlham, or Caynfham, a fmall market-town, fituated on the fouth bank of the river Avon, and on the weft bank of a fmall river, called the Chew, which here falls into the Avon, one hundred and eleven miles from Lon- don. It is reckoned a very foggy place, but has a large capacious church, a charity-fchool, a ftone bridge of fifteen 56 S O M E R S teen arches over the river Avon, and another ftone- bridge over the Chew. A confiderable trade is carried on here in malt, which is made in this town, and fent, by means of the Avon, to Bath and Briftol. Here was an abbey of black canons, founded by William earl of Gloucefter, about the year 1170, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, St. Peter and St. Paul. At the diflblution it was valued at four hundred and nineteen pounds, four- teen {hillings and three-pence per annum. Edward VI. gave it to Thomas Bridges, Efq; in the year 1553, and it is ftill the feat of that ancient family. Keynfham has a weekly market on Tuefday ; and two annual fairs, held on the twenty-fourth of March, and the fifteenth of Auguft, for the lale of cattle and cheefe. Near this town the river Avon is crowded, during the fpring feafon, with millions of fifh, called Elvers, a kind of fmall eel, about the fize of the barrel of a goofe-quill. Thefe the people fkim from the furface of the water with fmall nets ; and, by a particular method, fcour off" their fkins, and make them into fmall cakes for fale. Thefe elver cakes, fried, and eaten with butter, are confidered as dainties. In the neighbourhood of Keynfham is a quarry, in which are found a number of foflils, in the fhape of fer- pents, coiled up like a rope, but generally without any reprefentation of a head. The credulous people were formerly perfuaded, that they were real ferpents, changed into ftone by one Keina, a devout Britifli virgin, and from whom alfo the town took its name. About four miles to the fouthward of Keynfham, is a famous Druid monument, which we were defirous of feeing ; and, in our way to it, paffed through Pensford, a fmall, but neat market-town, fituated on the river Chew, one hundred and thirteen miles from London. It has a confiderable manufacture of woollen cloth; a weekly market on Tuefday ; and two annual fairs; the firft held on the fixth of May, for cattle, fheep, and horfes ; and the fecond on the ninth of November, for fheep and horfes. Stanton-Drew is fituated near the town of Pensford. It is an ancient monument, called the Wedding, from a ridiculous tradition among the people, that, as a bride was going to be married, fhe, and all her company, were changed into ftones. It is undoubtedly a work of the ancient Druids, and feems to be a ftupendous model of the Pythagorean fyftem of the world, conftrucled with enormous blocks of marble taken out of Clay-hole, near Wells. Three circles, reprefenting the fun, the earth and the moon ; together with fome ftones reprefenting the planets, Venus, Jupiter, and Saturn, are ftill re- maining ; and it feems highly probable, that the circles of the fun and moon were ufed as temples, in honour of thofe luminaries : the leaft of thefe temples is as big as Stone-henge. On the top of a hill, near the above monument, is a large camp, called Stanton-bury. It is furrounded with double works, including an area of near thirty acres, and appears to have been thrown up by the Danes. From this camp there is a very extenfive and beautiful profpect of the adjacent country, interfperfed with woods, hills, valleys, ftreams of water, farms, villages, and gentlemen's feats : you may even perceive the Steep and Flat Holms, two fmall iflands in the mouth of the Severn. Bath was the next place we vifited. This ancient and famous city is fituated in a valley, furrounded with lofty hills, on the banks of the river Avon, one hundred and eight miles from London. It is the fee of a bifhop, united to that of Wells ; and is governed, under a char- ter of queen Elizabeth, by a mayor, eight aldermen, and twenty-four common council-men. The Romans had a ftation here, which they called Camulodunum, from a mountain on the fouth fide of it, dedicated to Camulos, the Britifli god of war. The walls of the city are almoft entire, and fuppofed to have been built by the Romans, except the upper part, which feems to have been repaired with the ruins of Roman buildings. The area, inclofed by the walls, is but fmall, and of a pentagonal form. In thefe walls were four gates, and a poftcrn ; but thefe have been all lately pulled E T S H I R E. down, and taken away. There was alfo, formerly, an additional wall and ditch, extended from the fouth-weft angle to the river, by which the approach of an enemy was intercepted on two fides of the city, unlefs they crofted the river. The fmall compafs of oround within the walls, and the great refort of people hither, for the benefit of the waters, induced the inhabitants to crowd up many of the ftreets to an unfightly and inconvenient narrownefs : the houfes are, however, handfomely built, &" the additions lately made are very grand and magnificent. In this city are five hot baths, called the King's Bath, the Queen's Bath, the Crofs Bath, the Hot Bath, and the Leper's Bath. The King's Bath is fixty feet fquare, fupplicd by fe- veral hot fprings, which rife in the middle of it. The water of one of thefe fprings is fo hot, that they are obliged to turn the greater part of it a'way, for fear of over- heating the bath. It is accommodate,; with feveral flips, or dreffing-places, fome of which are appropriated to the men, and others to the women, both of whom bathe in linen drawers and lhifts. The walls are full of niches, fuppofed to have been made by the Romans. There are twelve on the north fide, eight on the eaft, and the fame number on the weft, and four large arches on the fouth ; the whole being encompaffed with a pa- rapet or balluftrade, with a walk icund it. In the center of this bath is the ftatue of an ancient Britifh king, called Blayden, the foothfayer; with an inferip- tion, importing, that he difcovered the ufe of thefe fprings eight hundred and fixty-three years before the chriftian aera. Contiguous to this bath is a neat pump-room, where the company meet to drink the water, which is conveved to it from the fprings, as hot as it can be drank/ by means of a marble pump. The Queen's Bath is contiguous to the King's Bath, being only feparated by a wall. It has no fprings, but receives its water from the King's Bath, and, confe- quently, is not fo hot. It is not lo large as the former, nor fo much frequented. The Crofs Bath hath its name from a crofs that for- merly ftood in the middle of it. It is of a triangular form, and its heat lefs than that of the King's. This bath, which is chiefly frequented by perfons of quality, was covered ,by James Ley, earl of Marlborough. On one fide is a gallery for fpe&ators ; and, on the oppofite, a balcony for a band of mulic, In the center is a marble pillar, adorned with curious fculpture, and erected at the expence of the earl of Melfort, in compliment to king James II. and his queen, and in memory of their meet- ing here. The guides of this bath fay, that, in hot wea- ther, a large black fly is frequently feen here, and faid to live under the water, and to come up from the fprings. Under the gallery and balcony above-mentioned, are the flips, or ranges of fmall dreiTing-rooms, one for the gen- tlemen, and the other for the ladies. The Hot Bath has its name from being formerly hotter than the reft, but it was then not fo large as at prefent. The well in this bath fupplies its own pump, and alfo tha,t in the Crofs Bath, being conveyed thither by pipes, and from which it is fifty-eight feet and a half diftant. The Leper's Bath, fo called from its being appropri- ated to perfons fuppofed to have a leprofy, or othsrdileafe of that kind, is filled by the overflowings of the Crofs Bath. Thefe hot fprings were fenced in by the Romans, with a wall, to feparate them from the common cold fprings, with which this place abounds ; and there is a tradition, that they alfo made fubterranean canals to carry off the cold waters, left they fhould mix with the hot. As this city lies in a valley, furrounded with hills, the heat of thefe waters, and their milky, detergent quality, are afcribed to the admixture and fermentation of two different waters flowing from two of thofe hills; one called Carlton-down, and the other Lanfdown. The water from Carlton-down is fuppofed to be fulphu- reous or bituminous, with a mixture of nitre; and the water from Lanfdown to be tinctured with iron-ore : and it is well known, that a mixture of fuiphur and fil- ings of iron, moiftened with water, will produce any de- gree of heat. s o S E T S H I R E. ?7 It is remarkable, that thefe hot Qsrings are always the fame ; for the longed and heavicft rains do net make them difcharge more water, nor the dricft feaforis caufe them to difcharge lefs. It is therefore evident, that thefe waters are not diluted, and their mineral virtues weakened by rain? ; nor their virtues incrcafed, and the water ren- dered ftronger by drought. In our enumeration of the ufes of thefe waters, it cannot be expected that we fhould particularly mention the method proper to be taken by every perfon who would find be- nefit from thefe, or any other mineral fprings; this can only be learned from the circumftances of the diforder, and a proper companion between the flrength of the pa- tient and that of the difeafe. Dr. Oliver obferves, that " as warm water, they are " allowed to foften and relax the fibres by external ap- " plication, and to dilTolve faline and gelatinous con- *' cretiens by being admitted into the habit of the body. " But the faline, fulphureous, and faponaceous particles tc manifeftly contained in the Bath Waters, muft render " thefe more penetrating, and more powerful folvents " than common water. " The rarefaction of the fluids, .caufed by the warmth " of the bath, is plainly a deobftruent, efpecially when *' the too rigid fides of the veffels are rendered foft and " yielding by the diftending force of the rarified hu- * 4 mours. By this means, the diameters of the canals fal- low ; 2. wheat ; 3. barley ; 4. oats, peafe, beans, or tares. Or, 1. fallow; 2. wheat; 3. barley; 4. clover, or rye-grafs for two years. They plow three or four times for wheat, fow about three bufhels upon an acre, and reckon three quarters a middling crop. We were told by a very intelligent farmer, that four quarters and a half is not uncommon. For barley, they plow from once to thrice, fow four bufhels on an acre, and reap three quarters and a half, or four quarters. They plow twice for beans, fow four bufhels on an acre, and reap about three quarters, when they are not hoed ; or be- tween four and five when that operation has been regu- larly performed. The labourer has ten-pence a day the whole year, ex- cept in harveft, when he is allowed one fhilling and eight-pence. The general price for reaping wheat is five fhillings per acre ; for mowing corn, ten-pence; and for mowing grafs, one fhilling and eight-pence. The farmers near the fea-coaft ufe the ore-weed, either by itfelf, or mixed with fea-fand for manure ; nnd fome of them, which is certainly ftill a better me- thod, make a compoft dunghill with ore-weed, fea-fand, rotten ftraw, the dung of animals, &c. and when all thefe fubftances are well blended and incorporated together, carry it out on their arable lands, to their great ad- vantage. The farms here are unequal, fome of them being very large, and others very fmall, and the rents are from fevten to fifteen fhillings per acre. We were furprized not to find the turnip hufbsndry more generally practifed than it is, efpecially as they keep fuch large flocks of flieep. Thofe we faw looked very well ; and many fields were hoed according to the practice of the new huf- bandry, and promifed fair to produce excellent crops. Trade and Manufactures. This county has confiderable manufactures, both of woollen and linen, though the former is not fo great as it was fome years ago. Their chief trade, befides their manufactures, confifts in corn, cattle, wool, and ftone; great quantities of which, efpecially of the three latter, are continually fent from hence into other counties. A confiderable trade is alfo carried on at the fea-ports of Lyme-regis, Weymouth, and Pool ; and the merchants or the latter, befides coafting veffels, keep many large fhips employed in the Weft India and Newfoundland trades. Borough and Market Towns. The firft place we vifited in this county was Sherborn, fituated on the poft-road from London to Exeter, one hundred and eighteen miles di'ftant from the former. It is divided by the river Ivel into two parts, and diftin- guifhed by the names of Sherborn and Caftletown. The latter has its name from a caftle built here by Roger, the third bifhop of Salifbury ; but king Stephen, incenfed at the bifhop's pride, feized it, and it remained in the hands of his fuccefTors till the year 1350, when it was recovered from the crown by Robert Wyvil, a bifhop more remarkable for his courage than his learning. This caftle was the firft that was formally befieged in the civil wars between king Charles I. and his parliament, and alfo the laft that held out for the king. Sherborn was made a bifhop's fee in the year 704, by Ina, king of the Weft Saxons ; and twenty-five bifhop's fat here fucceffively till the eleventh century, when it was united to the bifhoprick of Sunning, and removed to Salifbury. On the removal of the bifhoprick, this county became part of the diocefe of Salifbury, till Henry VIII, erected a new fee at Briftol, to which dio- cefe it has ever fince belonged. Soon after the tranflation of the fee, the cathedral was converted into an abbey-church. This ftructure is ftill ftanding, and is a very magnificent edifice, both within and without. In a word, it is by far the beft building in the county, and was fo greatly valued by the inhabi- tants at the reformation, that it is faid they purchafed it, and, tofave it, pulled down three churches and four cha- pels, fituated in different parts of the place. In a quar- rel that formerly happened between the townfmen and the monks, a great part of the church was burnt, and the former were obliged to repair it. Near the entrance from the porch, lie interred Ethelbald and Ethelbert, two Saxon kings, who lived about two hundred years before the conqueft ; and in one of the ifles is a fuperb monument, erected to the memory of John Digby, earl of Briftol, who died in the year 1688, and is faid to have coft upwards of fifteen hundred pounds. In the tower of the church are fix bells, fo large, that they require near twenty men to ring them. This town was formerly the retiring place of William the Conqueror, and belonged to his fuccefTors during fe- veral centuries, and will ever be famous for being the place where the prince of Orange was met by prince George of Denmark, the dukes of Ormond, Grafton, Marlborough, and many others of the principal nobility of the kingdom, on their deferting king James II. at Salifbury; by which the conftitution of England was reftored, without {pilling the blood of its inhabitants. Here is a free-fchool, founded by Edward VI. a fine alms-houfe, by Richard Beauchamp, bifhop of Salifbury, and a charity-fchool. Though Sherborn never had reprefentatives in parlia- ment, yet it fent William Turpin, and two other de- puties, to a council held at Weftminfter in the reign of Edward III. The number of inhabitants of this town are thought to amount to twenty thoufand fouls, a number much greater than that of any other town in the county. The inhabitants DORSETSHIRE. inhabitants formerly made great quantities of medley- cloth; but their chief manufactures at prefent are but- tons, bone-lace, and haberdafhery wares, with which they fupply all the weftern parts of the kingdom. Here are two weekly markets, held on Tuefday arid Saturday, and four annual fairs, viz. Saturday after Holy Thurfday, for all forts of cattle ; the eighteenth of July, for wool and cattle ; the twenty-fixth of July, for wool and lambs ; and the firft Monday in October, for' wool, and all forts of cattle. An houfe of regular canons was eftablifhed here about the year 700 ; but in the year 998, Wilfin, bifhop of Sherborn, with the confent of king Etheldred, changed thefe canons into Benedictine monks, and built an abbey for their refidence, the revenues of which were confirmed by pope Eugenius the third, in the year 1 145. The abbey was dedicated to St. Mary, and the revenues of it, upon the general fuppreflion, were rated at fix hundred and eighty-two pounds, fourteen {hillings and feven- pence per annum. Not far from the abbey-church, an hofpital was be- gun by the townfmen in the fourth year of the reign of Henry VI. and eleven years afterwards, it was incorpo- rated by the fame prince, under the name of the Mafter and Brethren of the Alms-houfes of St. John the Baptift, and St. John the Evangelift ; and was to confift of twenty brethren, from whom a mafter was to be annually elected, twelve poor men, four poor women, and a chaplain ; to be governed by fuch ordinances as fhould be eftabliftied by Robert Nevil, bifhop of Salifbury, Sir Humphry Staf- ford, Knt. Margaret Goghe, John Fauntleroy, and John Baret, or any two of them. At Hermitage, "a village about feven miles fouth of Sherborn, is a chafm in the earth, whence a large plat of ground, with trees and hedges on it, was removed, en- tire, to the diftance of forty rods, by an earthquake, which happened on the thirteenth of January 1585. Everfhot is a fmall market-town, fituated near the fource of the river Frome, on the borders of Somerfet- fhire, one hundred and twenty-three miles from London. It ftands at the foot of a ridge of hills, in a very obfeure frtuation, and affords nothing worthy the notice of a traveller. The market is held on Saturday : befides which, there is an annual fair held here on the twelfth of May, for the fale of bullocks and toys. Bemifter, which we next vifited. is fituated near the borders of Somerfetfhire, one hundred and thirty-two miles from London. It is a peculiar vicarage of the church of Salifbury, had once a chauntry, and has ftill a good charity-fchool. Here is a weekly market on Thurf- dav, and. an annual fair on the twenty-ninth of Septem- ber, for horfes, bullocks, fheep, and cheefe. At Melpath, a village about three miles to the fouth of Bemifter, lived Sir Thomas More, who being fheriff of Dorfetfhire in the year 1533, ordered, in a frolic, all the prifon doors in the county to be thrown open, and the malefactors to be fet at liberty; but afterwards re- flecting on the folly and danger of what he had done, applied, in a very penitent manner, to Sir Thomas Pow- let, then lord treafurer to Henry VIII. to intercede with the kins in his behalf. Powlet confented ; and one of More's^aughters, who were coheirefTes in his fortune, which was very large, foon after ma?ried Powlet's fecond fon ; and this is faid to have been made the condition of his interceffion. Lime, to which we now directed our courfe, is fitu- ated r.t the mouth of a fmall rivulet of the fame name, on the borders of Dorfetfhire, one hundred and forty-four miles from London, it is alfo called Lime Regis, or King's Lime, probably from its having been annexed to the crown in the reign of Edward I. who granted it a charter, with every privilege enjoyed even by the city of London, as a court of huftings, and a freedom from all tolls and laftage. Thefe privileges were confirmed by Edward fecond and third, James I. Charles I. and king William and queen Mary. The corporation now con- fifts of a mayor, a recorder, fifteen capital burgefles, a town-clerk, and other officers. The mayor is a juftice of peace during his mayoralty, and the year following, and in the third year, he is both juftice and coroner. 7 Two of the capital burgefles are alfo juftices of the peace. The town ftands on the declivity of a hill; and foms of the houfes being large, and well built of free-ftone, and covered with blue flate, make a fine appearance at a diftance, by rifing gradually one above another. Here is only one church, but the ftrudture is capacious, and built in the Gothic tafte. A rivulet runs through the middle of this town; but, by its fituation on the fide of a fteep rock, the merchants are obliged to land their goods on the pier, called the Cobb, where there are pro- per warehoufes for their reception. The Cobb is a quarter of a mile from the town, and formed by a very fubftantial ftone wall, running out a confiderable diftance into the fea, as we have already obferved. Without this wall there is another of equal ftrength, which is carried round the end of the firft wall, and forms the entrance into the port. The mayor and burgefles are at the expence of keeping the Cobb in repair, and are accordingly empowered to dig ftone on the fhore, and provide all other materials neceffary for that purpofe. The lower part of the town, which lies at the foot of the rock near the fea, is fo low, that at fpring-tides the cellars are overflowed to the height of ten or twelve feet, to the great damage of the inhabitants. The cuftom-houfe ftands upon pillars, and underneath it is the corn-market. Lime had formerly a good trade to France, Spain* the Straits, Newfoundland, and the Weft Indies, during which the cuftoms amounted to near fixteen thoufand pounds per annum. At prefent, the trade is confiderably decreafed. The merchants have, however, begun to trade in the pilchard fifhery to confiderable ad- vantage, but not fo largely as they do farther to the up in fuch prodigious weft, the pilchards not coming fhoals fo far to the eaftward On the eleventh of June, in the year 1685, the duke of Monmouth arrived here in a man of war of thirty guns. His army confuted of no more than one hundred men, but they had arms fufficient for four thoufand. After his defeat, many of his party were executed here, and their limbs hung up in different parts of the town. Lime has fent two members to parliament ever fince the twenty-third year of the reign of Edward I. It has a good market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, the firft on the fecond of February, and the fecond on the eleventh of October ; both for the fale of cattle. A little to the north-eaft of Lime, is a fmall village called Winford-eagle, near which a burrow or tumulus was opened not many years ago. On removing the earth, they found it full of large flints, and at length difcovered a cavity refembling an oven, regularly form- ed, and coated on all fides with clay. In the middle of this cavity was an urn exquifitely wrought, containing; a confiderable number of very firm bones, and under them a large quantity of black afhes. The cavity, when firft opened, was affirmed to be hot enough to bake bread. In digging further in the fame tumulus, fixteen other urns were found, but not in cavities, filled with bones and aihes like the firft. Leaving Lime, we continued our journey, near the fea-coaft, to Bridport, and paffed through Charmouth, a fmall town fituated at the mouth of the Charmouth, and remarkable for being the place where the Danes landed more than once ; but affords nothing worth the obfervation of a traveller. Bridport is fituated near the mouth of a river on the Englifh channel, one hundred and thirty-nine miles from London. It is the capital of its hundred, had a mint in the time of the Saxons, and was made a borough by Henry III. by whofe charter the manor was leafed to the inhabitants in fee-farm, for a fmall quit-rent, payable to the Exchequer at Michaelmas, and collected by the bailiffs of the town. It was incorporated by Henry VII. and afterwards by queen Elizabeth ; but the charter by which it is now governed was granted by James L By this charter the corporation confifts of fifteen capital burgefles, out of whom two bailiffs are annually chofen, a recorder, and town-clerk, who, with the two bailiffs, are juftices of the peace, By this charter the corporation alfo ob- S tamed 66 DORSETSHIRE. tained a power to build a prifon, have a common feal, and to hold lands and tenements; the bailiffs to have all fines, and other privileges, and to have two ferjeants to carry maces before them. The town-hall is a mean building, though the quarter- feffions for the county are held in it once a year. Here are two churches, but one of them is very old and ruinous ; and a good ftone bridge over the river. The town has at prefent but little trade; and would have lefs, were it not a thoroughfare on the great weftern road. It was formerly fo famous for the manufacture of hemp, ropes, and cables for fhips, that by Henry VIII. and confirmed by fucccflive parliaments during a period of fixty years, it was enacted, that all the cordage of the Englifh navy fhould, for a limited time, be made in this town, or within five miles of it ; but very little of this great trade now remains, though the country between this town and Bemifter produces as fine crops of hemp as any in the kingdom. Bridport has a harbour for fmall veffels : it was for- merly a pretty good one, and occafioned a confiderable trade to be carried on here ; but, in confequence of a dreadful mortality, which fwept away the greater part cf the inhabitants, it was fo neglected, that the entrance was barred up by fand wafhed in by the tide ; and though an act of parliament palled in the year 1722, for rebuild- ing the pier, and cleanfing the harbour, it has not yet been carried into execution. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, viz. the fifth of April, for bullocks and fheep ; Holy Thurs- day, for cheefe, fheep, and cattle ; and the tenth of Oc- tober, for cattle and pedlars wares. On the weft fide of Bridport-bridge is the chapel of St. John, and probably belonged to the hofpita! dedicated to St. John, valued, on the dillblution, at nine pounds and eight-pence per annum. Here was alfo a priory, whofe revenues, at the dilTolution, amounted to no more than fix pounds per annum. At Lodres, a village in the neighbourhood of Brid- port, was an alien priory, fubordinate to the abbey of Mountfburgh in Normandy, to which this manor was given by Benedict, or, as others fay, by Richard de Red- veriis, in the time of Henry I. on which account the abbot of that foreign monaftery was a prebendary of the cathedral church of Salifbury, and had a houfe in the clofe there. Richard II. bellowed this cell, then worth eighty pounds per annum* on the priory of St. Anne, near the city of Coventry, in Warwickshire, during the war between England and France ; but in the firft year of Henry IV. it was reftored to its original inftitution. After the diflblution of foreign houfes, in the reign of Henry V. Ladres was made part of the endowment of Sion-abbey, in Middlefex. Leaving the fea-coaft, we crofied the river Frome to Fromton; a fmall market-town fituated on that river, one hundred and feventeen miles from London ; but has nothing remarkable, except a noble ftruclure of Portland ftone, eighty feet in front, belonging to Mr. Brown ; ,and a bridge over the Frome. Here was formerly a priory of black monks, fubject to the abbey of St. Ste- phen in Normandy, to which it was given by William the Conqueror. During the wars between England and France, this, with other alien priories, was feized by the king, and, for fome time, farmed at one hundred and twenty merks per annum ; but, on the fuppreflion of fo- reign houfes, it was given to the dean and canons of St. Stephens, Weftminfter. Thefe enjoyed it till the dilTolution of religious houfes, when it was purchafed by the anceftorof the late Sir John Brown. The market is held on Thurfday ; befides which there are four annual fairs, viz. the fourth of March, the feventh of March, the firft of Auguft, and the fourth of September; all for cattle. Cerne-abbey is fituated on a fmall river of the fame name, which falls into the Frome about four miles be- low this town, and one hundred and twenty-four miles from London. It was. formerly famous for an abbey of black monks founded by St. Auftin, afterwards archbi- fhop of Canterbury, after he had deftroyed the altars of the Saxon god Keile, whom the inhabitants worfhipped as the preferver of their health : but, in fucceeding times, it fuffered many changes, and was at laft almoft ruined, fo that, in the year 963, it was poflefied by three monks only, when Ailmer, earl of Cornwall, alfifted by Dun- ftan, archbifhop of Canterbury, rebuilt and enlarged the original ftructure, and changed the black canons for Be- nedictine monks. It was firft dedicated to St. Mary, St. Peter, and St. Benedict, and afterwards to St. Ed- wold and Athelwold. Canute the Dane plundered both the church and monaftery ; but after his converfion to chriftianity, he became its great benefactor, endowing it with lands and privileges. After this, the abbey con- tinued in a very flourifhing ftate till the diffolution of re- ligious houfes, when its revenues amounted to five hun- dred and fifteen pounds, feventeen (hillings and ten-pence per annum. The abbey-church is wholly deftroyed, and the parifh- church erected on the fpot where the former flood. The gate of the abbey is yet (landing, and over it the arms of Richard earl of Cornwall, and king of the Romans. The town, which formerly fubfifted by the abbey, has, fince the diffolution, fallen to decay, having no manu- facture for the employment of the inhabitants. It has, however, ftill a weekly market on Wednefday, and four annual fairs, viz. the eighteenth of March, Monday after Mid Lent Sunday, Holy Thurfday, and the fecond of October, for horfes, bullocks, and hogs. From Cerne-abbey we followed the courfe of that river to its influx into the Frome near Walton. The Frome, a little above that influx, divides itfelf into two branches, forming an ifland about two miles in length, and half a mile in breadth, at the eaftern extremity of which the ftreams again unite. We crolTed this ifland, which is divided into beautiful meadows, to Dorchefter, the capi- tal town of the county. Dorchefter is fituated on the fouth fide of the river Frome, one hundred and twenty-three miles from Lon- don. It was firft incorporated by James I. but the char- ter by which it is governed was granted by Charles I. The corporation confifts of a mayor, a recorder, two bailiffs, fix aldermen, and fix capital burgeffes, befides a governor, who is annually chofen by twenty-four com- mon council-men, and whofe office chiefly confifts in looking after the trade of the town. A court of common council, affifted by five of the capital burgelfes, deter- mines all matters relating to the privileges of freemen. This being the county town, the affizes, and, generally, the quarter-feffions, are held here, and here alfo the knights of the (hire are elected. The town is fituated on a fteep afcent, on the fouth fide of the Frome, and commands a fine and extenfive view of that river. It confifts chiefly of three ftreets, which are well paved, and kept very clean ; and the houfes, though they are old and low, are very regularly built, the greater part of them, with ftone. Here are three churches, a town-hall, and a county gaol, with its chapel. St. Peter's church and the town-hall ftand in one ftreet, Trinity-church and the Shire -hall in another, and All-Saints-church, below which is the county-gaol, with its chapel, in the third. St. Peter's church is a handfome ftructure, and in the windows of it are feveral monuments of theChidcock family, which were removed hither when the priory church was pulled down. There is a traditional rhyme with regaid to the founding of this church : Geoffery Van, With his wife Anne, And his maid Nan, Built t'nis church. But there was, long fince, dug up in a garden here, a large feal, with indifputable marks of antiquity, on which is the following infeription : Sigillum Galfridi de Ann. It is therefore, with great reafon, fuppofed, that the founder's name v/as Ann. The other churches have nothing remarkable. Here is a good free-fchool, and near it a handfome alms-houfe ; befides which, there are two other alms- houles, the donations of private gentlemeni This DORSE This town was once famous for a manufacture of broad-cloth and ferge ; but the former is entirely loft, and the latter very inconfiderable. Great quantities of malt are, however, ftill fent to Briftol, and other places, every year ; and the town is noted for excellent cakes, and incomparable beer. Dorchefter was the moft confiderable ftation of the Romans in thefe parts, and in the Saxon times, it had two mints and a caftle. The latter was demolifhed by the Danes ; but after the Norman conqueft, a new one was erected and governed by fome principal baron. This was alio demolifhed, and out of its ruins was built a con- vent for grey friars, by John Chidcock, about the fourth year of Henry II. The Ifening ftreet entered this town at the weft gate. The ignorant country people will have it to be the work of the devil, who, they fay, caft it up in one night's time. The foundation of the Roman wall appears quite round the town : on the eaft fide, indeed, a ftreet is built upon it, and the ditch filled up ; but it is ftill called the Walls. Near the town is a Roman amphitheatre, one hundred and forty-five feet wide, and two hundred and twenty long, which the vulgar call Maumbury : it affords an agreeable excurfion for the inhabitants, and the terrace on the top is a noted place of rendezvous, affording an agreeable circular walk, whence there is a beautiful pro- ipect of the town, and an extenfive view over the adja- cent country. In the neighbourhood of this town is a lofty hill, on the fummit of which is an area of above ten acres, forti- fied with five trenches, one within another, and having only two places whereby the fortification can be entered. The country people call it Maiden Caftle, from a tradi- tion that it was never taken ; but is thought by the moft intelligent antiquaries to have been a fummer ftation of the Romans, when they defended the frontiers of this province. I The hofpital of St. John the Baptift, commonly called St. John's Houfe, in this town-, was founded in the feven- teenth year of Edward II. and granted the twenty-ninth of Htnry VI. to Eaton-college, which grant was con- firmed in the feventh year of the reign of Edward IV. On the fixth of Auguft 1613, a dreadful fire broke out in this town, which confumed three hundred houfes, together with the churches of Trinity and All Saints. The damage was computed at two hundred thoufand pounds : yet, what is very wonderful to relate, not a iingle life was loft in this terrible conflagration. The town is furrounded with beautiful hills, on which there are often fix hundred thoufand fheep feeding at one time, within a circle of fix miles radius, the town being fuppofed the center. It is obfervable of thefe fheep, that they are exceeding fruitful, the ewes generally bringing two lambs at a time, and for this reafon are greatly efteemed by moft of the farmers in the eaftern parts of England. The drovers purchafe them at Burford fair, and drive them into Kent, Suffex, Buckinghamfhire, Bedfordfhire, and Oxford/hire. Even the Banftead downs, in Surry, fo famous for fine mutton, are fupplied from this place. The herbage of thefe downs is full of wild thyme, and other aromatic plants, which nourifli the fheep to a great degree ; and the herbage is again improved by the great quantity of duns; made by thefe animals. The vallies alio partake of this advantage, by the falts of the dung being wafhed down into them from the hills, by hafty rains. This town has fent members to parliament ever fince the original demand in the reign of Edward I. Here are zwo weekly markets, held on Wednefday and Saturday, and four annual fairs, viz. the twelfth of February, for black cattle and fheep - } Trinity Monday, and the fifth of Jul}', for black cattle and lambs ; and the fifth of Au- guft, for black cattle, lambs, wool, and leather. Near this town, in Blackman-foreft, was formerly a houfe of Heremite friars, who were fettled here before the year 1300; and Edmund earl of Cornwall, who had been a great benefactor, if not the founder of it, died here. But the friars feem to have forfaken their habita- tion fome time before the year 1460; for after that pe- T S H I R E. 67 riod, it is called a free chapel, the mafterfhip of which was beftowed on feveral priefts fucceflively, till it was annexed to Cerne-abbey, in the fifth year of the reign of Henry VIII. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Leaving Dorchefter, we directed our courfe to Wey- mouth, a fea-port town fix miles to the fouth of Dor- chefter. The road is very agreeable, having almoft conftantly a profpect of the fea. The valleys were co- vered with corn, and the downs with innumerable flocks of fheep. Weymouth is a clean, agreeable, well-built town, clofe to the fea, fituated at the mouth of a little river called the Wey, one hundred and thirty-two miles from London. It has a cuftom-houfe, a convenient quay, and formerly carried on a confiderable trade with France, Spain, Portugal, and the Weft Indies. The Newfound- land trade ftill flourifhes here ; the wine trade is alfo very confiderable, and the merchants have a very large corre- fpondence up the country, for the confumption of their returns. It fent members to parliament in the twelfth of Edward II. but after that time, till it was united to Melcomb-regis, it made only one return, which was in the nineteenth year of Edward II. It has no church, fo that the inhabitants are obliged to go to Melcomb-regis, or to Wyke-regis, the mother church, in order to at- tend divine fervice. It had indeed formerly a chapel on the top of the adjacent hill, the declivity of which was fo fteep, that fteps were cut in the ground to render the afcent more eafy ; but a detachment from the parliament's army, in the year 1641, converted it into a fort, from which they battered Melcomb-regis ; and after re- ducing that town, demolifhed the chape], and fold the ftones. Melcomb-regis, fo called from its being anciently a demefne of the king, is feparated from Weymouth by a fmaM river called the Wey, over which there is a wooden bridge of feventeen arches. It has fent members to par- liament ever fince the reign of Edward I. which was fome time before Weymouth enjoyed that privilege. In the reign of Edward III. it was in fo flourifhing a ftate, that it was appointed a ftaple by parliament ; but in the fuc- ceeding reign, it was burnt by the French, by which the inhabitants were fo greatly reduced in their circum- fiances, that they prayed and obtained a difcharge from cuftoms. The town, however, recovered it foon after, when quarrels arifing with Weymouth, its privileges were removed to Pool in the reign of Henry VI. but re- ftored by act of parliament in the reign of queen Eliza- beth. This act was confirmed in the reign of James I. on condition that Melcomb and Weymouth fhould form but one corporation, and enjoy their privileges in com- mon ; and to this union is owing the flourifhing ftate of both. This united corporation confifts of a mayor, a recorder, two bailiffs, twenty-four capital burgeffes, and an uncertain number of aldermen ; becaufe every perfon who ferves the office of mayor, continues afterwards an alderman for life. Melcomb has four good ftreets, and moft of the houfes are built of ftone. Here are alfo a number of warehoufes, and a very convenient quay for fhipping and landing of goods. Here is a good market-place; the town-hall is alfo here, fo that the members of the corporation living in Weymouth come hither to attend the public bufinefs, though the port generally goes by the name of Wey- mouth. The harbour is reckoned to be the beft fre- quented in the county, and is defended by Sandford and Portland caftles, built by Henry VIII. Thefe two boroughs, though united in one corpora- tion, fend four members to parliament: thefe are elected by fuch as have freeholds within the boroughs, whether they dwell here or not: the number of voters is near feven hundred : every elector, as in London, has the privilege of voting for four perfons, who, when chofen, are returned by the mayor, in two diftinct indentures, as the burgeffes of Weymouth, and the burgeffes of Mel- comb-regis. Two weekly markets are held at Melcomb for both towns, on Tuefdays and Fridays, and an annual fair, which holds three days, and begins on the fixteenth of June. A few 68 DORSE A few miles to the fouthward of Melcomb-regis lies that famous peninfula, 'called Portland Ifland, the fea ha- ving formerly flowed round it ; but it is now joined to the main-land by a beach called Cheflil Bank, which has been thrown up by the waves. It is not certainly kilown from whence Portland derived its name, fome fuppofe it is borrowed from its fituation oppofite to the port of Weymouth 5 and others, from one Port, a Saxon, who annoyed thiscoaft about the year 523, and poflcfled him- felf of this commodious fpot of ground as an afylum, or fafe retreat for hirnfelf and his fellow-pyrates. This peninfula is not above eight miles in compafs, and thinly inhabited ; for tho' it affords plenty of corn and pafture, yet wood and coal are fo fcarce, that the inha- bitants are obliged to dry the dung of black cattle for fuel. The inhabitants are, in general, ftone-cutteis ; and, like the ancient Baleares in the Mediterranean, were for- merly the beft {lingers of any of the Englifh. In this peninfula the beft and whiteft free-ftone, of which, not only the cathedral of St. Paul, but likewife the Monu- ment, and the greater part of the moft magnificent ftruc- tures in London, are built ; and the quarries from whence thefe {tones are taken are well worth the notice of the moft curious naturalift. Thofe who are pleafed with fhells will find on the fea- fhore a very pleafing variety ; but the moft curious are the fpirals, generally called fcrews. Thefe are found in the ftone, and of the fame fubftance ; fo that it is often very difficult to get them out whole. They are perfectly folid, except a fmall tube running through the middle j and fo nicely coiled about an imaginary axis, that the bore is as equal and regular as that of a capillary glafs tube. In fome of the quarries on the fouth-weft part of the ifland there is found a fort of ftone which they call the fugarcandy ftone, of which there are two forts, one pale, like white fugarcandy, and the other of an amber colour, like the brown. The refemblance of both is fo very per- fect in the lump, that any perfon might be impofed upon till his tongue convinced him they were nothing more than an infipid exudation of juices, petrified, cryftalized, and, if we may ufe the expreffion, candied up by nature in this manner. The whole peninfula is indeed almoft one continued rock of frce-ftone, and the land fo lofty, that when the weather is clear and ferene, the profpect is extended above half way over the Englifh channel. On the two points of this peninfula two light-houfes are erected for the fafety of mariners ; and not far from thefe light-houfes is a very remarkable hole through the earth, wide at the top ; and after narrowing about feven or eight feet downwards, opens into a large fubterranean cavern, where you fee the waters of the fea, which, in boifterous weather, affords a moft tremendous fcene. This cavern is fo large, that fome of the fmall craft have been driven into it with their fails fet, and feen through the hole. Though Portland ftands three miles at leaft from the main land, yet it is almoft joined by a prodigious riff" of beach, or fmall ftones thrown up by the fea, and extending from the peninfula fo near thelhore, that they ferry over with a boat and a rope, not being above a {tone's caft broad ; and this rifF Of beach, from that inlet of water, turns away to the weftward, running parallel with the fhore quite to Abbotfbury, a town feven miles diftant from the beginning of the beach. On the infide of this beach, and between it and the land, is the inlet of water already mentioned. About two miles farther to the weft, it grows very broad, form- ing a kind of hke within the land of about three miles in length, and half a mile in breadth. At the weftern ex- tremity of this water is a large decoy, and the verge of the water over-grown with wood, and proper groves of trees and fhrubs are added, to afford a proper cover for fowl. In the open and broadeft part of the lake is, per- haps, the largeft fwanery in England : here thefe birds live and breed, and are fo very numerous, that 7 or 8000 of them are feen flocking together ; at the fame time fome •f them are feen on the wing, very high in the air, T S H I R E. whence we may naturally fuppofe they fly over tlie riff" of beach, which feparates the lake from the fea, to feed up- on the fhore. From the decoy, the lake narrows by de- grees, till at laft the beach joins the fhore, and connects Portland to the main land. Abbotsbury, fo called from an abbey which formerly ftood, is a fmall market town, fituate near the weftern extremity of the riff" of beach above mentioned, 133 miles from London. In the regifter of this monaftery it is faid, that one Ber- tufus a prieft built a church here in the infancy of chrif- tianity, and dedicated it to St. Peter. Some time after, Abbotsbury became a retiring place to the Weft-Saxort kings, who being afterwards vanquifhed by the Danes, king Canute gave the manors of Abbotsbury, Portfham, and Helton, to Sir Orcius his fteward, who prefented thofe lands to the church of St. Peter, and, with the confentof Edward theGonfefibr, built, in the year 1044, a large monaftery, and filled it with Benedictine monks from Cremil abbey. Thefe donations were afterwards confirmed to the abbey by a charter granted by Edward the Confeflbr, and feveral fucceeding kings and popes. In fucceeding times the revenues of the abbey were fo greatly increafed, that the monks became very rich, and rebuilt both their church and monaftery ; adding to the former a beautiful chapel, which they dedicated to the Virgin Mary. They alfo erected upon the top of a rocky hill, about half a mile from the abbey, another chapel dedicated to St. Katherine. It was built entirely of ftone, with an arched roof of exquifite workmanfhip. Part of this chapel is ftill remaining, but of no other ufe than that of a fea mark. After the di Ablution of religious houfes, both the abbey and church were demolifhed, and the bones of the founder Orcius, inclofed in a marble cof- fin, were removed to the parifh church. The Virgin's chapel continued fome time after the diffblution ; but was afterwards demolifhed, and a manfion houfe built on the fpot it occupied. The town of Abbotsbury is fmall, and the inhabitants principally employed in fifhing. It has, however, a mar- ket on Thurfday, and a fair on July 10, for ftieep and hogs. Having viewed the famous peninfula of Portland, we croffed the paffage, and proceeded near the fea coafts to what is called the Ifle of Purbeck. It is not, however, properly an ifland, but a peninfula, and the ifthmus that connects it with the main land half a mile in breadth. This peninfula is about ten miles in length, and five in breadth. We pafled into this diftrict over the ftone bridge at Weft Holen, and found the country on our firft en- trance to be barren and heathy, but replenifhed with red deer. This part is fevered from the reft by an almoft: continued ridge of very high hills ; on the other fide of which are lands of ft much better nature, affording ex- cellent pafture for cattle and fheep, and plenty of fine corn. Here are alfo quarries of very hard and lafting ftone, of which the cathedral church of Salisbury is built, and great quantities of it are fent to London, and other parts of the kingdom, to the great advantage of the in- habitants. Befides thefe quarries of ftone, there are others of fpotted and blue marble. On the fouthermoft point of this peninfula is a hill, the top of which is fortified with triple trenches, and known by the name of Frowers Burrow ; but by whom this fortification was thrown up is now unknown. About five miles to the eaftward of Frowers Burrow is a promontary, on the top of which are the ruins of a chapel, which now ferve as a fea-mark. This chapel, which was conftructed wholly of ftone, and the ceiling finely vaulted, was dedicated to St. Adeline, firft bifhop of Sherborn. On the eaftern point of land, called Studland, is a caftle for the defence of Sandwich Bay, lying between Studland and Peverel Point. The only place of note in this peninfuia is called Corfe- caftle, fituated near the middle of the ifland, 116 miles from London. It has its name from a caftle fuppofed to have been built by king Edgar, who endowed the town with many privileges, Corfe- b b r s e Corfo-caftle was many year, a borough by prefcrip- tion, and afterwards incorporated by queen Elizabeth. Charles I. as a reward for the gallant defence the caftle made for him, granted the town art exemption from tolls, arreft, fuit or fervice, without the barony. Charles II. gave the town a new charter, by which it is now governed, and enjoys every privilege in common with the cinque ports. Befides which, it has the pecu- liar honour of annexing the title of Baron to its prin- cipal members, the ftile of the letters of incorporation being the mayor and barons of Corfe-caftle, and all the barons who have ferved the office of mayor are juftices of the peace, and can hold feffions, chuie coroners and ale-tafters, during life. The lord of the manor is, by inheritance, lord lieutenant of the ifle of Purbeclc ; has power to appoint all officers ; to determine all actions by his bailiffs and deputies; has all fhipwrecks in the ifle, and a freedom from the jurifdicYion of the court of admiralty. The town itfelf is but fmall, and has nothing re- markable, except a very lofty and fpacious church, which is a royal peculiar, not liable to any epifcopal vi- fitation or jurifdic~tion, and has a chapel of eafe about a mile out of town. The caftle, from whence the town took its name, is fuppofed to have been built by king Edgar, who made it the place of his refidence, and is thought to have been the ftrongeft in the kingdom. It was given by that mo- narch to Elfrida, his fecond queen, who retired thither with her fon Ethelred, on his being prevented from af- cending the throne, by the intrigues of Dunftan and his party. Elfrida, fired with the injury done to her fon, was daily contriving fchemes for the deftrucStion of Edward, the innocent monarch : nor was it long before an op- portunity offered of putting her cruel defign in execu- tion. It happened one day, as Edward was returning from the chace, and having miffed his attendants, he found himfelf near Corfe-caftle, where his mother-in- law, with her fon, then refided. Edward had always fhewn her the greateft refpecl: ; and being alfo very fond of his brother Ethelred, he determined to pay them a fhort vifit. On his arrival at the caftle-gate, Elfrida received him in the moft affectionate manner, preffing him to alight and take fome refrefhment ; but the young monarch excufed himfelf, by faying, that his ftay would alarm his attendants, whom he had left in the foreft ; and therefore would only, for the prefent, take a cup of wine on horfeback, being very thirfty. Wine was accordingly brought ; but as the prince was lifting the goblet to his mouth, he was ftabbed in the back by a ruffian, whom Elfrida Lad ported behind him for that purpofe, when fhe found that all her entreaties could not prevail on Edward to difmount and enter the caftle. The king, finding himfelf wounded, inftantly fet fpurs to his horfe ; but before he had rode many paces, faint- ing with the lofs of blood, he fell from his faddle, and one of his feet catching in the ftirrup, his horfe dragged him a confiderable diftance over the rugged road, till at Jaft the beaft flopped of its own accord at the houfe of a poor blind woman, fituated by the way fide, where fome of Elfrida's domeftics, who traced him by his blood to the place, found the corpfe terribly disfigured by be- ing dragged over the ftones. As it was ncceffary to conceal this murder as long as poftible, the body was thrown into a well, where it was afterwards found, and carried to the nunnery of Wareham in this county ; whence it was afterwards conveyed to Shaftsbury, and depofited in a monaftery founded there by king Alfred. This cataftrophe happened in the year 979. In the time of Henry III. when that prince was taken prifoner by Simon Montfort, in the forty-fecond year of his reign, Corfe-caftle was one of the three fortreffes Mont- fort defired might be delivered up to him ; and it was afterwards chofen by Mortimer for the prifon of Ed- ward II. It was repaired by Henry VII. and afterwards by Charles I. who placed a garrifon there ; but after a brave defence, it was taken thro' treachery by the par- liament's forces, who plundered and demolifhed it. It appears from the ruins, that the caftle was near half a T S II IRE.. 69 mile in circumference; and that it was both a ftrong and magnificent building. Wareham was the next place we vifited. It is about four miles from Corfe-caftle, and ic8 from London. The place it ftands in is one of the moft healthy fpots of the county, tho' almoft furrounded with water, hav- ing the river Frorne on the fouth, the Priddle on the north, and the bay, into which both thefe rivers fall, on the eaft. The inhabitants fay it rofe out of the ruins of Stowborough,nowa village on the other fideof theFrome. But however this be, it is confidered as one of the old- eft towns in- the county, and was of fome note in the time of the Romans. In the time of the Saxons it had two mints, and was afterwards furrounded with walls, and defended by a ftrong caftle built by William the Conqueror. The fea then came up to its walls, and a very confiderable trade was carried on, by which means the town was in fo flouriftiing a condition, that there were feventeen churches within the walb. But during the wars between king Stephen and the emprefs Maud, it fuffered very greatly; and the harbour being choaked up with fand, Wareham loft its former importance, to- gether with its trade; fo that its churches are now re- duced to three, St. Mary's, Trinity, and St. Martin's. S. Mary's was formerly the priory church ; and its tower, which is lofty, and finely decorated, is now the chief orriamertt of the place, which confifts chiefly of two ftreets, and about two hundred houfes. It is an ancient borough by prefcription, and incor- porated by queen Anne, by whofe charter, the corpora- tion confifts of a mayor, a recorder, a town-clerk, fix capital burgeffes, and twelve common-council men, with their affiftants. The mayor, by an old prefcriptive right, is coroner, not only of the town, but alfo of the ifle of Purbeck, and Brankfey ifland, another fmall ifle in Pool-bay : in the latter he has been fupreme magif- trate ever fince the reign of Henry VI. and the mayor in office, the preceding mayor, and the recorder, are juf- tices of the peace ; the two former are of the quorum, and impowered to hold their own feffions. It is faid, that Briatricus, the laft of the Saxon kings, during the heptarchy, was buried here. The principal trade of Wareham at prefent confifts in tobacco-pipe-clay, of which the beft in Great Britain is dug out of a hill in the neighbourhood, called Hunger We have already obferved, that Wareham had once a ftrong caftle, built by William the Conqueror; and fhall now add, that no traces of that ftrufture remain, ex- cept the place of its fituation, which is ftill called Caftle-hill. Here once lived a reclufe, called Peter the Hermit, who was hanged, together with his fon, in the time of king John, for having prophefied, that the king would be depofed at a certain time which he named ; but it does not appear whether he was put to death be- fore or after that period ; all we know is, that he fub- mitted chearfully to his fentence. A nunnery was founded here pretty, early in the Saxon times, and afterwards demolifhed by the Danes. In this nunnery the body of Edward, who was murdered by Elfrida at Corfe-caftle, was at firft depofited. After the nunnery was ruined by the Danes, Robert earl of Leicefter gave one, if not more of the churches, to- gether with lands in the neighbourhood, to the convent of Lira, in Normandy, in the reign of Henry I. In confequence of this donation, the convent fent over and fettled here a convent of their ov/n Benedictine monks, dedicating the ftructure to the Virgin Mary. When the alien priories, during the war with France, were feized by the king, the revenues were given to the priory of Montgrace, near Northallerton, in Yorkfhire, which convent continued to receive them feveral years; but when the foreign houfes were diffolved by Henry V. he gave this priory to the Carthufians of Shene, near Rich- mond in Surry. This town fends two members to parliament, who are chofen by the inhabitants, paying fcot and lot, who amount to about one hundred and fifty ; and here is weekly market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, viz the feventh of April, the fifth of July, and the elevent] of September, for hogs and cheefe. T Havin, 7 o DORSE Having furvcyed this ancient town, now greatly fallen from its former grandeur, we embarked on board a tifhing vefTel, and, after a pleafing voyage on the lake, we landed at Pool, one of the moft coniidcrable towns fcr trade in this county. Pool has its name from the lake, which almoft fur- rounds it, and which, in calm weather, appears like a pool of {landing water. This {heet of water, which extends to Wareham, is called Laxford-iake, and remarkable for the water rifing and falling four times in twenty-four hours. On a point of land, in the north-well; part of this lake, the town of Pool is fituated, one hundred and ten miles from London. By a charter of queen Elizabeth, this town is fepa- rated from the county of Dorfet, and made a county of itfclf, with the privilege of a flierifF keeping a court, to determine all caufes, both civil and criminal, with di- vers other immunities, feveral of which it {till enjoys ; particularly the right of trying malefactors within its own jurifdiclioh, by a commiffion from the crown, which faves the town the expence of entertaining the judges on the circuit. This borough and county is governed by a mayor, a recorder, aldermen, a fherifF, a coroner, a town-clerk, balifFs, and common coun- cil-men. The mayor, who is alfo admiral within the liberty, is chofen from among the burgefles ; and after he has paffed the chair, is always an alderman, and the firft year after his mayoralty, the fenior bailiff, and a juftice of the peace. Three jnftices are chofen annually from among the aldermen, the mayor being of the quo- rum, and the election of the freemen and burgefTes muft be made by the mayor, four aldermen, and twen- ty-four burgefles. The houfes, which amount to about four hundred in number, are low, but built of ftone. The church, which is a royal peculiar, is a large ftone ftructure, but the tower is low, and the wings larger than the body, and unequal to each other. Here is an elegant town-hall, built of ftone, a cuftom-houfe, a quay, and a charity-fchool. Here is alfo a large warehoufe, called the Town-cellar, for keeping goods and merchandize. This town is one of the molt confiderable ports in the weft of England, and feveral of its merchants have reprefented it in parliament. It carries on a confider- able trade to France, the Weft Indies, and Newfound- land, about two hundred fail of merchant mips belong- ing to it. The bay is noted for plenty of fifti, particularly mackerel, at the proper feafon. The oyfters here are larger, and contain more pearls than any other in Eng- land. They are pickled and barrelled up here, and fent to London, the Weft Indies, Spain, Italy, and other places. Great quantities of corn, pulfe, and Purbeck itone, are alfo exported from this town. Pool fent members to parliament in two feflions dur- ing the reign of Edward III. but we find no returns afterwards, till the reign of Edward IV. When Hen- ry VI. disfranchifed the port of Melcomb-regis, he transferred that privilege to this place, and gave the mayor leave to inclofe it with walls, which Richard III. begun at the haven ; and flnce the time of queen Eliza- beth, the return of members has been regular. On the twentieth of June 1653, a mower of blood is faid to have fell in this town, from a black cloud, which tinged the leaves of the trees with red. Several of thefe leaves were fent to London, and confidered as great curioflties at the time when it happened. Here are two weekly markets, held on Monday and Thurfday ; befldes which, there is an annual fair, or free mart, on the firft Thurfday in November, for toys, &c. About eleven miles to the weftward of Pool, is a fmall market-town, called Bere-regis, fituated on a rivulet of its own name, one hundred and five miles from London. It has nothing worth remarking, but a fmall charity- fchool, and a market on Wet'nefday. In the neighbourhood of: .ti t >wn is Woodbury, or Woodberry-h : • , the top ■ 1 ..... is fortified with a triple ditrh. H was -a lu..r.mei ft -it ion of the Romans,, and lb •v/.t/irom dais hill to Old Sarum, in T S H I ii E. 1 Wiltfliire. This hill is famous for a large fair held here on the eighteenth of September, for the fale of al) forts of cattle, hops, cheeTe, cloth, haberdafhery, and a great variety of other forts of goods. Wimborn-minfter, or Winborn-minfter, is fituated between the two rivers Allen and Stour, near their in- flux, one hundred and feven miles from London. The word Minfter is added from its monaftery, in which the Weft Saxon monarch, Etheldred, was buried, after be- ing flain by the Danes, in the year 873. This is the largeft parifti in the county, and has a noble church, built in the form of a cathedral, one hundred and eighty feet long, with a fine tower at the weft end, and another in the center : the latter had on it a lofty fpire, which fell down in the year 1600, at the time of divine fervice, when the choir was full of people, without hurting any perfon, though both the lead and roof were greatly damaged. Both thefe towers are each ninety feet high. This is the only choir in the county ; it confifts of four finging-men, fix boys, and an organift. Margaret, countefs of Richmond, mother to Henry VII. founded a fine free-fchool here, the ftipend of which was augmented, and annexed to the foundation, by queen Elizabeth. Wimborn is a populous, but poor town, and chiefly fupported by the {rocking manufacture. In the time of the Romans, this was one of the two winter ftations for their legions, Dorchefter being the other : the fummer ftation was on Woodbury-hill, at fome diftance from this town, as we have already ob- ferved. The Romans left many marks of their magni- ficence in Wimborn, and on that account the place was held in the higheft veneration by our Saxon anceftors. Sometime before the year 705, St. Cuthburga, daugh- ter to Kenred, king of the Weft Saxons, and fifter to king Ina, founded an abbey for holy virgins, and dedi- cated it to the Virgin Mary. The foundrefs retired to this abbey, where {he died ; and here king Etheldred was buried, as we have already obferved. The tomb of this prince was repaired when the church was rebuilt, and the following infeription placed upon it: In hoc Loco quiefcit Corpus S. Etheldredi Regis Weft. Saxoruni) Martyris, qui, Anno Domini DUCCLXXXII. XXIII. Apr His, per Manus Danorum Paganorum occubuitm " Here refts the Body of the Martyr St. Etheldred, " King of the Weft Saxons, who was {lain by the " Hands of the Pagan Danes, on the twenty-third of " April, in the Year of our Lord 882." It was foon after deftroyed by the Danes, and the church ruined, till one of our Edwards rebuilt the church for fecular canons ; fo that it became a royal, free, and collegiate church, confifting of a dean, four prebendaries, three vicars, four deacons, or fecondaries, and five finging-men ; and it has ever fince continued a fort of choir. At the fuppreflion of religious houfes, the revenues amounted to one hundred and thirty-one pounds fourteen {hillings per annum. Blandford, which we next vifited, is a large market- town, fituated on the river Stour, over which it has a good ftonc-bridge, and in the high-road to Exeter, one hundred and ten miles from London. It is go- verned by two bailiffs, chofen annually out of the al- dermen, or capital burgefles. It is at prefent a fiourifti- ing, well-built town, and much frequented by the gentry, who have feats upon pleafant eminences in the neighbourhood, called Burford Downs, extending from this town to Dorchefter. The chief manufacture of this town formerly was band-ftrings, and afterwards ftraw-hats and bone-lace ; but at prefent the principal traders are maltfters and clothiers. In the reign of queen Elizabeth, a dreadful fire broke out here, by which the whole town was deftroyed, but was foon after rebuilt ; and on the fourth of June 1731, another terrible fire happened, when fix hundred houfes, the church, and other public buildings, were deftroyed; together with a village beyond the bridge, in which only twenty-fix houfes were left ftanding. The pro- DORSE grcfs. of this fire was fo rapid, and the confternation of the people fo great, that moll of their goods and mer- chandize were deftroyed, together with their houfes. What ftill increafed the misfortune was, its happening at a time when the fmall-pox raged greatly in the place; fo that many of the fick, who were taken out of their beds to efcape the flames, perifhed in the fields. An act of parliament was paffed in the year 1732, for rebuilding this town, and for determining differences touching houfes and buildings burnt clown or demolifhed therein ; and asfevetal wife regulations were made by it, the town was rebuilt in a much better manner, and makes a more elegant appearance than ever it did before. This town fent members to parliament in the reigns of Edward I. and Edward III. but not fince. It has a weekly market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, held on the feventh of March, the tenth of July, and the eighth of November, for horfes, fheep, and cheefe. At Rufnton, a village four miles to the eaftward of Blandford, was an old religious houfe, dedicated to St. Leonard, the patronage of which was granted to the prior and convent of Twinham, in Suffex, in the feventh year of Edward III. At Tarrant Kainfton, a village about three miles to the eaftward of Blandford, Richard Poor, bifhop of Chi- chefter, then of Salifbury, and afterwards of Durham, founded an abbey of Ciftertian nuns about the year 1230, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary and All-faints. At the diffolution, it had a yearly revenue of two hundred and fourteen pounds, feven {hillings and nine-pence. In the parifh of Gunville, four miles from Blandford, is the elegant feat of the late right Hon. George Doding- ton, Efq; The houfe, gardens, and park, containing about eight miles in circumference, is called Eaftbury. You approach the houfe through a beautiful lawn ; and after paffing through the grand arcade, on each fide of which the offices are ranged, you land upon a flight of fteps eleven feet high, under a noble Doric portico, crowned with a pediment extending thirty-two feet, fup- ported by pillars forty-fix feet high ; whence you enter a mod magnificent hall, adornedwith manyftatues and bufts. The Salon is one of the fineft rooms in the kingdom, and is beautifully and richly decorated. At one end of this falon are three noble apartments ; one furnifhed with crimfon velvet, another with flowered velvet, and a third with fattin, all richly laced v/ith gold. At the other end are a drawing-room, and a large dining-room. The marble tables in thefe rooms are exceeding curious, and of great value : they were purchafed out of one of the Italian palaces. The main body of the houfe extends one hundred and forty-four feet, and is ninety-five feet in depth, to which the arcades forming the great court are joined. This court is one hundred and fixty feet in breadth in the clear, and its depth from the houfe to the entrance two hundred and ten feet. The arcades are ten feet wide. The offices placed on each fide of thefe arcades, extend each one hundred and thirty-three feet in breadth, and one hundred and fixty-one in depth. The inner courts of thefe offices are one hundred and fixty feet by eighty, in the clear. Beyond thefe other buildings are carried, in the fame line, fifty feet each way, and which form two other courts; fo that the whole front of the building and offices extends five hundred and feventy feet. Thefe buildings being of different heights, and the beautiful turrets at each corner of the houfe, with their Venetian windows, rifing above all the reft, give the whole ftruc- ture a very grand appearance. Middleton, or Milton, is a fmall market-town, fitu- ated fix miles fouth-weft from Blandford, and one hun- dred and fixteen from London. There is nothing re- markable in this town but the ruins of a monaftery, built by king Athelftan, in expiation of his crime in deftroy- ins; his brother Edwin, about the year 933. Edwin was a young prince poffeffed of many noble and virtuous accomphfhments ; but thefe great qualities, inftead of rendering him more dear to his brother Athel- ftan, awakened in that monarch's breaft the moft ran- corous jealoufy. He was fenfible that the people, not- withftanding their fubmiflion, were not entirely fatisfied T S H I R E. 7 x with regard to the legitimacy of his birth. Fie remem- bered that the traitor Alfred had coloured over his rebel- lion with the prettn:e of fefting Edwin on the throne, as the only lawful heir of the deceafed Edward : he faw his own dominions threatened by a powerful invafion, both from Ireland and Scotland ; nor was he fure but fome fparks of Alfred's rebellion might ftill remain in the hearts of his fubjects, and which wanted only the breath of Edwin to blow them into a flame. Full of thefe ideas, he wifhed for nothing fo much as a favourable op- portunity of removing this dangerous competitor in the affections of his people. The virtues of Edwin, and all his profefiions of refpect and loyalty, appeared to him only as fo many fpecious arts to difguife the real fenti- ments of his heait. Court fycophants, who were ready to flatter the weaknefs of their prince at the cxpence of his honour and future happinefs, were not wanting in the court of Athelftan : they reprefented all the actions of young Edwin in the moft odious light ; his humility they called deceit; his refpectful behaviour they conftrucd into defign, and the act of the moft horrid and deteftable na- ture, reprefented as a prudent precaution. Unhappily Athelftan, who on every other occafion difplayed many royal virtues, was not proof againft the dictates of ambi- tion, and the artful practices of his courtiers, who were inceffantly reprefenting, that not only his own welfare, but that of his people, was endangered by the popularity of Edwin, whom they at length openly accufed of bcinc; an acceffary in the late rebellion. In a word, the young prince was tried, and being found guilty by his fuborned judges, was condemned to be put on board a leaky vef- fel, without provifions, or any other attendants than his armour-bearer and page, and in this condition committed to the mercy of the winds and waves. The unfortunate Edwin, unable to fupport the feverity of the weather, the continual profpect of death, and the want of food, threw himfelf into the fea, and perifhed. It happened, that the chief promoter of this black tranfaction was cup- bearer to Athelftan. One day, as he was ferving the king at table, he made a falfe ftep, and had nearly fallen on the floor, but recovered himfelf unexpectedly with one of his feet ; upon which he faid to the king, who in- dulged him with great freedoms, " See, Sir, how one " brother affifts the other." Athelftan, ftruck with thefe words, which were probably fpoken without any inten- tion, felt all the confeious horrors erf guilt awakened in his foul ; and whether he conftrued this expreflion of his cup-bearer into a tacit infult, or was determined to pu- nifh this incendiary, as an attonement to the manes of his murdered brother, is uncertain ; however, he or- dered a ftrict examination to be made into the charge brought againft Edwin, and finding it had no foundation in truth, he commanded the perfidious cup-bearer to be put to a cruel death, and then endeavoured to expiate his own guilt by a profufionof penances, and benefactions to the church. Among other donations of this kind, was the monaftery of Milton, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, St. Michael, St. Samfon, and St. Bran- walader. The monks were of the Benedictine order, and their revenues, at the diffolution, amounted to five hundred and feventy-eight pounds, thirteen fhillings and eleven-pence per annum. Milton has a fmall market on Monday, and a yearly fair on the Tuefday after St. James's day. Sturmifter Newton, to which we now directed our courfe, is a fmall market-town, ftands on the northern bank of the river Stour, and joined to Newton-eaftle, fituated on the other fide of the river by a ftone-bridge, one hundred and twenty-two miles from London. The town is a mean, obfeure place, and has nothing remark- able. Newton-caftle, on the other fide of the river, was built upon a lofty, but artificial eminence, and was once a palace belonging to the Weft Saxon kings. This caftle, with feventeen hides of land, Edmond Ironfide bequeathed, together with his body, to the abbey of Glaitonbury, in the year 1016. His will was complied with, his body buried in that abbey, and his fucceffor Canute the great founded here a fmall cell for monks, the ruins of which ftill remain ; but no veftiges of the caftle, except the artificial ru!.l on which it ftood. Sturmifter 72 DORSETSHIRE. Sturmifter has a weekly market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, the firft on the twelfth of May, the fecond on the twenty-fourth of October, for cattle and toys. About three miles above Sturmifter is a bridge over the Stour, called King-ftag-bridge, which, they fay, had its name from the following incident. King Henry III. having diverted himfelf with hunting in Blackmore foreft, which extends to this bridge, was fo pleafcd with the beauty of a white hart he had chafed, that he not only fpared the creature's life, but alfo gave orders that no other perfon fhould kill it. But thefe orders were dis- regarded ; for fome time after, one Thomas de la Linde, with feveral of his companions, who were hunting in this foreft, chafed the fame creature, and killed it at King-flag bridge. This action fo enraged the king, that he laid all their lands under a pecuniary mulct, which, to this day, is annually paid into the Exchequer, under the name of White-hart Silver. A few miles above this place is Statbridge, a fmall market-town, fituated on the Stour, one hundred and fifteen miles from London. It has a charity-fchool, a weekly market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fixth of May, and the fourth of September, for all forts of cattle ; but nothing elfe remarkable. Shaftefbury, the next place we vifited, is fituated on the fummit of a hill, in the great road to Exeter, eigh- teen miles from Salifbury, and one hundred and one from London. The hill on which it ftands is part of the boundary of that large carpet-down called Saliibury- plain, and from hence is a beautiful profpect over part of the counties of Somerfet and Wilts, where you fee large traces of inclofed land, interfperfed with woods, and divided by quick-hedge-rows ; the towns and houfes thickly diifeminated, and the whole wearing the afpect of chearfulnefs. Shaftefbury confifts of about fix hundred houfes, many of which are of free-ftone. It was built by king Alfred about the year 880, as appears from the following in- scription, which Malmfbury the hiftorian tells us was preferved here in his time : Anno Dominica Incarnationis, Alfredus Rex fecit banc Urbcm DCCCLXXX. Regni fui VIII. «« This City was built by King Alfred, in the Year of " our Lord's Incarnation 880, and the eight of his reign." In the time of the Saxons, it had three mints, and was the fee of a fuffragan bifhop in the reign of Hen- ry VIII. It is an ancient borough by prefcription, was incorporated by queen Elizabeth and king Charles II. and is governed by a mayor, a recorder, twelve alder- men, two bailiffs, and a common-council. On the top of an adjacent eminence, called Park-hill, a fine grove of trees has been lately planted by a gentleman in the neighbourhood, as a walk for the inhabitants. Water is fo fcarce in this town, that it was formerly brought on horfes from Motcomb, a village about a mile diftant; but in the year 1718, William Benfon, Efq; one of its reprefentatives in parliament, was at the ex- pence of conftructing engines, which raifed the water from a well, about two miles off, to the height of above three hundred feet, and conveyed it to a large ciftern, in the middle of the town. Thefe engines, however, have, for fome reafon, been difufed, and the inhabitants have dug pits at the doors of their houfes, for preferving the rain-water, which not being fufficient for a conftant fupply, many of the poorer fort of the inhabitants get their living at this day by bringing water in pails, or on horfes, to the town, from Motcomb. Before the above engines were erected, the mayor and burgefles of Shaftef- bury, as an acknowledgment to the lord of the manor of Motcomb, ufed to go in proceffion every year cn the Monday before Holy Thurfday, with a kind of garland, conhfting of plate, borrowed from the neighbouring jivntry, and adorned with peacocks feathers. This gar- land, which is here called a prize-befom, was carried to a green at the foot of the hill, whence the water was taken, and prefented, together with a raw calf's head, and a pair of gloves, to the lord of the manor, who re- ceived the prefent by his Steward, and at the fame time diftributcd twelve penny loaves, and twelve dozen of beer, among the people. After the ceremony was over, the prize-befom was reftored to the mayor, and carried back to the town by one of the officers, with great So- 1 enmity. King Alfred built and endowed an abbey here for Be- nedictine nuns, about the year 888, dedicating it to the Virgin Mary, and placing in it Ethelgeda, his daughter. But after the body of Edward the martyr was removed hither from Wareham, his fhrine was vifited by fuch multitudes of Superftitious people, that it was called " The Monaftery of the affumption of the bleffed Vir- " gin Mary, and St. Edward the martyr." Even the town itfelf loll its old name, and was for fome time called St. Edward's Town. At the diilblution of religious houfes, the revenues of this monafterv amounted to eleven hundred and fixty-fix pounds, eight Shillings and nine-pence per annum. This town has fent members to the British parliament ever fince the time of Edward I. It has a weekly mar- ket on Saturday, and three annual fairs for the fale of all forts of cattle, viz. the Saturday before Palm-Sunday, the twenty-fourth of June, and the twenty-fecond of November. Camden tells us, that Shaftefbury is faid to have been the refidence of one Acquila, a prophet, who foretold, that the government of Britain, after having been in the hands of the Saxons and Normans, would at length re- turn to the ancient Britons, which prediction is thought to have been accomplifhed by the acceffion of Henry VII. and afterwards by the kings of Scotland, to the throne of England. About four miles to the South-weft of Shaftefbury, is the village of Stour Provoft, which was given by Roger de Bellarnont, father to Robert earl of Leicefter and Mellent, in the time of William the Conqueror, to the nunnery of St. Leger de Preaux, in Normandy, by which it became a cell to that foreign monaftery. After the Suppreflion of alien priories, Henry VI. and after- wards Edward IV. granted this priory to King's-college, in Cambridge. Cramborn was the laft place we vifited in Dorfetfhire. It is a fmall, but a very agreeable market-town, well watered, and fituated in a healthy, fporting country, near a very large chace, ninety-eight miles from London. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, the firft held on the twenty-fourth of Auguft, and the fecond on the fixth of December, for cheefe and Sheep. Remarks on the Sea Coasts of Dorfetfhire. The fouth part of Dorfetfhire is bounded entirely by the fea, the coafts of which are very diftimular, confut- ing, in fome places, of very high lands and cliffs, and in others, of only a beach of pebbles. Some of the cliffs are compofed of land, earth, and loamy clay, fome of chalk, and fome of ftone ; the latter are chiefly found in what are called the iflands of Purbeck and Portland. Before the port of Pool, there is a large bay, where Ships come to an anchor in wefterly winds. To the weftward of this is another road, called Sandwich Bay, from a village of that name fituated on the Shore. This bay is formed by two points of land, one termed Handfaft Point, on which is a block-houfe called Strudland-caftle, and the other Peverel Point, over which is a very high land, called St. Alban's. Sandwich-bay is a very good road for fhips, and on that account pretty much fre- quented, efpecially as there is no danger in going in, except a fmall ledge of rocks lying off Peveral Point. The belt anchoring ground in this bay is off the village of Sandwich, where Ships ride in four or five fathoms water. There is alfo a good road a little to the northward of Handfaft Point, before the village of Stradland. Upon the outermoft part of the above point is a hole in the cliff, through which you mav fee the water on the other fide of the point ; and a little without this point, is a high Steep rock, entirely environed by the fea. The above hole in the cliff is ufed as a mark for Ships to anchor in Strud- land- DORSETSHIRE. n land-bay, where there are between three and four fa- thoms water. Four leagues to the weftward of Pevcrel Point, is a little cove, called Lulworth-cove, from a village of that name at the bottom of it, where fmall vefiels may ride in fafety; but in going in, care muft be taken to keep pretty clofu to the eaflern point of the cove, for a ledge or rocks extends from the weftennoll point to near the middle of the entrance. About three leagues to the weftward of Lulworth-cove, is Weymouth road, where fliips ride in fafety in wefterly and northerly winds but the winds between theeaft and S. W. blow into the bay, when there is no riding here in bad weather. The water is from ten to two fathoms deep, according as the fiiip is farther from, or nearer to the fhore. Portland-road lies a little to the fouthward of Wey- mouth-road, and is properly a part of the fame bay. It is, however, fafer than the former, as few winds can hurt vefiels riding there, cfpecially if pretty near the fhoreoff Portland C-ftle. The fea about this peninfula, efpecially a little to the weft of Portland, is reckoned the moil dangerous part of the Engliih channel, cccafioned chiefly by a continual agitation of the water, produced by the meeting of two tides or currents, one corning from between the I fie of Wight and the adjacent rivers, and the other from the channel without that ifland. The danger is alfo increafed by a bank of fand, called the Shambles, lying about four miles eaft by fouth from the point or Bill of Portland, and on which there is not above three or four fathoms water. Ships coming from the weftward, and intended for Portland-road, fhould be careful to fail within a mufket-^ fhot of the bill, and then keep pretty clofe to the land till they come before the caftle, and there come to an an- chor ; but particular attention muft be paid to the ter- rible, ripling of the Race of Portland, which begins a little to the weftward of the Bill, and extends almoft to Peverel Point. The depth of water too in the Race is very uneven, in fome places not above feven, in others ten, and in others fifteen fathoms. But the great difficulty confifts in weathering the Bill of Portland, when fhips have not kept fufficiently to the fouthward, not confidering the current carries the fhips much nearer to the land than they would otherwife be. Two light-houfes are erected on the Bill of Port- land, as a direction to feamen during the night; but thefe, though of very great ufe, are not always fuffi- cient to avoid the danger ; many fhips are embayed, and. obliged to run afhore on the beach, where they are in general entirely loft. The water rifes upon this coaft about fourteen feet in fpring-tides, and eight feet in neap-tides. Of the Inhabitants of Dorfetfhire. The inhabitants of Dorfetfhire were called by the Ro- mans Duratriges, a Britifh word, fignifying a people who dwell by the water- fide, being compounded of Dour, water^ and Trig, an inhabitant. When the Saxons firft fettled themfclves in this country, the people became the fubjecls of the Weft Saxon kings, who often refided at Corfe-caftle; but thefe being driven out by the Danes, and the latter by the Normans, the inhabitants are com- pounded of all thefe people. They are open and gene- rous, kind and hofpitable to ftrangers, very communi- cative, and ready to gratify the curiofity of thofe who are defirous of knowing any particulars of their country. Superftition, which once greatly flourifhed here, is al- moft banifhed from the people, through the care taken by the gentry to withdraw the veil of ignorance, through which the torch of reafon caft only a glimmering light for many ages. Free enquiry has banifhed bigotry, and genuine fcience the jargon of the fchools. The mer- chants are very affiduous in trade, and the common peo- ple in manufactures, agriculture, and the breeding and /ceding of fneep and cattle. At the fame time, it gave us concern to fee, that the vice of drinking to excefs is riotyet banifhed, and that thepernicious trade of fmuggling #ourifhes too much on thefe coafts. They exchange 8 great quantities of their wool, fome of the fined in the world, for the brandies and other commodities of France, to the o;reat detriment of the fair trader, and the irrepar- able injury of debauching the manners of the lower clafs of people. Curious Plants in Dorfetfhire. French Sea^wormwood, Abfmthium Seriphium Narbo- nenfe, Park, found on the fea-coaft near Abbotfbury. Sheeps Sorrel, Acetofa arvenfis lanceolata, C. B. found in many pafture-grounds near Dorchefter. Wood Sorrel, Trifolium acetojum vulgar e, C. B. com- mon in the woods near Cramborn. Wild Bafil, Acinos minus feu vulgarc, Park. On the hills in the Ifland of Purbeck. Sweet Flag, or Cane, Calamus aromaticus, Park. It grows in watery places ; we found it in a watery meadow near Sturmifter. Agrimony, Agrimonia, found in plenty near Dorchefter. Hard Baftard-fpunge, Alcyonium fpongiofum officinarum, J. B. This fea-plant we found on the fhore of the Ifle of Portland. Yellow Rattle, Crifia galli fcemina, J. B. found in plenty in moft of the upland paftures. Red Rattle, Pratev.fis purpurea, C. B. in moft parts of the low paftures, particularly about Charmouth. Purple Spurrey, Fergula purpurea, f. B. found in the barren parts of the Ifle of Purbeck. Bifhop's Weed, Ammi majus, C. B. found about Dor- chefter and Corfe-caftle. Brook-lime, Anagalis aquatica, found in moft of the fmall brooks and rills in Dorfetfhire. W ater Angelica, Angelica fylvejlris major, C. B. We found this plant in a watery meadoW near Stalbridge, Gout-weed, Podagaria vulgaris., Park, found in the woods near Cramborn. Reft Harrow, Anonis five refla bovis, Ger. found in plenty in wafte-grounds in many parts of the county. Kidney-vetch, Vulnaria rujlica, J. B. found in the paftures near Sturmifter Newton. Wood-roof, Afperula odorata, Park, found in the woods near Cramborn. Water- hemp Agrimony, Cornabina aquatica, folio bi- partito divifo, C, B. found in the watery meadows near Bland ford. Biftork, or Snake-weed, Bijlorta major, r'ugofioribus foliis, C. B. found in the moift meadows near Sherborn. The lefter-branched Fern, Filix ramofa minor, % B, This curious plant we found in a wood near Bimifter. Sea-cabbage, Braffica marina, found on Cheffil beach in the ifle of Portland. Butchers-broom, Rufcus five Brufcus, Ger. found plen- tifully in the Ifle of Purbeck. White Bryone, Bryonia alba vulgaris, Park, found near Sherborn. Hare's Ear, Auricula leporis umbella lutea, jr. B. Plen- tifully on the hills near Shaftefoury. Strange Coltsfoot, Cacalia folio rotunda incano, Park., found in the woods near Cramborn. Calamint, Calamintba vulgaris officinarum, Ger. found in fhady places near Sherborn. Water Calamint, Mentha feu Calamintba aquatica, Ray, found in watery meadows near Frampton. Antique Coins, &c. found in Dorfetfhire. A great variety of Roman coins have been dug up at different times at Maiden Caftle, and other places in the neighbourhood of Dorchefter ; fome of filver, and others of copper, called by the country people King Dorn's pence, from a notion that one king Dorn was the foun- der of Dorchefter, and that thefe pieces of money were coined by him. At Woodberry-hill a great number of Roman coins have been dug up, befidea arms, fwords, and other remains of that people. This county fends twenty members to parliament, of which two are knights of the fhire for the county, the reft are burgefTes, of which Dorchefter, Pool, Lime, Bridport, Shaftefbury, Wareham, and Corfe-caftle, fend two each, and the united corporation of Weymour and Melcomb- regis, four. W W I L T- [ 74 ] WILTSHIRE. 'TT^HIS county is bounded on the weft by Somerfet- j[ fhire, on the eaft by Berkfliire and Hampfliire, on the north by Gloucefterfhire, and on the fouth by Dor- fetfhire and part of Hampfliire. It is forty miles in length from north to fouth, thirty in breadth from eaft to weft, and one hundred and forty in circumference. It contains one city, twenty-four borough and market- towns, three hundred and four parifhes, about twenty- eight thoufand houfes, and eight hundred and feventy- fix thoufand inhabitants. RIVERS. The principal rivers are the Ifis, or Thames, the up- per and lower Avon, the Willy, the Bourne, and the Nadder. The Ifis, or Thames, has its rife in Gloucefterfhire, and flows through only a fmall part of Wiltftiire. It enters this county near its fource, and begins to be na- vigable for boats at Cricklade ; but after running, in a Terpentine manner, about four miles, it enters Gloucefter- fhire at a village called Caftle Eaton. The Upper Avon rifes about the middle of the county, near the Devizes, and runs fouthward to Salifbury, near which it is joined by the Nadder, the Willy, and the Bourne. After its junction with all thefeftreams, it be- comes a confiderable river, and paries into Hampfhire about a mile below Downton. The Nadder rifes near OverDunhead, on the borders of Dorfetfhire ; and directing its courfe to the N. E. falls into the Willy at Wilton. The Willy rifes near Warmifter, in the weftern part of this county, and running fouth-eaft, is joined by the Nadder at Wilton, and falls into the Upper Avon a little to the weft of Salifbury. The Bourne rifes at Kallinghorne Kingfton, and running fouth, falls into the Upper Avon, a little to the eaft of Salifbury. The Lower Avon rifes in Gloucefterfhire, and enters this county near Malmfbury, a confiderable borough- town ; thence it directs its courfe to the fouthward, pafles by Chippenham, another borough-town ; thence to Bradford, and pafles into Somerfetlhire at Mondon Ferry. Remarks on ^Inland Navigation of Wiltftiire. The only rivers navigable in this county are a fmall part of the Ifis, or Thames, and a few miles of the Upper Avon. The firft we have already mentioned in our ac- count of that river, and the fecond is not navigable above five miles. The navigation begins at its mouth, which is at Chrilt-church in Hampfhire, and extended to within two miles of Salifbury ; but the rapidity of the current would not, it feems, admit of continuing the na- vigation to that city. This difficulty might, however, be very eaflly furmounted, by digging a canal from the city to the place where the navigation terminates, by which, and the afliftance of a very few locks, loaded barges might be brought to the city. A more particular account of the navigation of the Upper Avon will be given in our furvey of Hampfliire, in which county the greater part of the navigation lies. * The navigation of the Lower Avon might alfo be ex- tended from Bath to Bradford, and even to Chippenham ; bv which means a communication by water would be opened with Briftol, to the great advantage of both the countic:; of Wilts and Somerfet. AIR and SOIL. The air of Wiltfliire is fweet and healthy, fharp upon the hills, but mild in the vallies, even during the winter. The northern parts, called North Wiltfhire, is full of pleafant eminences, and watered with rivulets. It was once covered with woods, which are in a great meafure cut down. The foil is a ftrong clay, and in many parts produces excellent corn. The banks of the rivers afford, beautiful chains of fruitful meadows, where great num- bers of black cattle are conftantly fed, while the downs afford pafture for innumerable flocks of flieep. The foil of the vales is very rich, and affords large quantities of corn. Husbandry of Wiltftiire. Moft of the farms in this county are extremely large; two or three hundred pounds a year they reckon fmall ; from that rent to one thoufand pounds a year are common. The arable lands let generally at feven or eight ftiillings an acre, and the farmers have their fhare of what is called Salifbury Plain into the bargain. Many of thefe farmers have feven or eight hundred acres of arable land, and fome never fow lefs than five hundred. The flocks of fheep they keep on the plain, are, perhaps, the greateft in England ; they run in number from three and four hundred to three thoufand : they fold them during the whole year, and fhift the folds every night. The particulars of a farm of five hundred pounds a year are : eighteen or twenty horfes, and twenty men and boys all the year: they ufe three or four horfes to a plough, and hardly finifli an acre a day. Their courfe of crops is, I. fallow ; 2. wheat ; 3. bar- ley ; and then fallow again, unlefs hop-clover, rye-grafs, or faint-foin, are thrown in ; the latter they leave as long as it will laft. Their preparation for wheat is three earths ; they fow three bufhels on an acre, and reap, in general, twenty bufhels, of nine gallons to the bufhel. They likewife plow thrice for barley, fow four bufhels, and reckon three quarters a middling crop. When they fow oats, they plow but once, fow five bufhels of feed, and gain, on an average, three quarters. They feldom plow more than once for peafe, which they generally drill in rows, hoe them, and reckon two quarters and a half a middling crop. They fow a great many turnips, plow for them three times, hoe them twice, and ufe them for feeding their fheep. In fome parts of the county, efpecially about Eaft Lavington, is a fort of herbage, called Knot-grafs, which they ufe in feeding hogs. The general price of labour, during the winter, is ten- pence a day ; in harveft, one fhilling and eight-pence; • reaping wheat, five fliiilings an acre; mowing of corn, ten-pence ; and of grafs, one fhilling and eight-pence. A boy of feven or eight years old has two-pence a day. In many parts of the county they denfhire their land, which cofts fifteen fliiilings an acre, and is, in general, fuccefsful. Lucern is cultivated in fome parts of this county, and where they ufe it for feeding horfes green, anfwers ex- tremely well. We obferved great quantities of a dwarf kind of burnet between the Devizes and Salifbury, but could not learn that any of the farmers had cultivated that plant for feeding cattle. Perhaps the fineft fheep- walks in England may be feen in this county: the verdure is good, and the grafs in general fine pafture, fuch as would turn to prodigious account, if converted to the purpefes of tillage. What prodigious advantage might be made of Salifbury Plain ! WILT In twenty miles v/e faw but one habitation, and that only a cottage. A very little reflection will be fufHcicnt to convince every thinking man, that fuch a vaft tract of uncultivated land is a public nuifance. This plain is as broad as it is long, befides many irregular breaks into the adjacent cultivated country: if we therefore calcu- late the area of a fquare of twenty-two miles, it will, tloubtlefs, be under the truth. Now it has been fhewn, that all the corn annually exported in plentiful years, would grow on fuch a fquare ; but if, with proper de- ductions for fallow, grafles, &c. half that quantity only was produced, it would furely be a fufficient reat'on for cultivating it, as it would at once remove all the cla- mours againft exportation, and greatly increafe the po- pulation of this kingdom. By all the obfervations we were able to make, there does not feem to be a barren acre of land in all this extenfive tract ; for the foil is a fine light loam, yielding exceeding good grafles, and would bear as fine corn as any- in the world. What an amazing improvement would it be, to cut this vaft plain into farms, by inclofures of quick-hedges, regularly planted, together with fuch trees as are beft fuited to the foil. The country would then wear a very different afpect from what it does at prefent, without a hedge, a tree, or a hut, and inhabited only by a few fhepherds, and their flocks. They mend fome of their poor lands with chalk, which is of the rich, fat, foapy kind, and lay about twenty waggon-loads upon an acre, which is a good im- provement for twenty years. The farmers in the neighbourhood of Salifbury feem to have very inadequate notions of manure, for they fuf- fer large quantities of cinder-afties and mortar-rubbifh to lie there in large heaps. We were informed, they even refufed to fetch it away, without being paid three-pence ter load for their trouble, though at the fame time they furnifh the inns with ftraw, in exchange for their dung; when a little experience would have taught them, that one load of the former is worth two of the latter. We faw, however, feveral compoft dunghills in this county, and were informed that many farmers were convinced of their utility. Manufactures, &c. This county is famous for its manufacturing, dying, Sec. all kinds of Englifh bread-cloths, flannels, long- cloths, carpets, ore, by which a vaft number of people are employed, to the great advantage of the kingdom in general, and of this county in particular. Vaft quantities of wool grow here, and fome corn is often exported. City, Boroughs, Market Towns, &c. We entered this county from Cramborn-chace, which borders on Salifbury Plain, and directed our courfe to Wilton, a borough town fituated near the conflux of the river Nadder with the Willy, about three miles from Salifbury, and cighty-feven from London. In the Saxon times, it was the fee of a bifhop, founded by Edward the elder, about the year 908. It was alfo the fhire-town, had -twelve churches, and the great weftern road pafling through it. The bifhoprick was taken out of that of Sherborn, and its bifhop refided fometimes here, and fometimes at R mfbury. After the conqueft, king Ste- phen placed a garrifon here, to curb the incurfions of the emprefs Maud's foldiers from Salifbury ; but Robert earl of Gloucefter drove out the garrifon, and burnt the town. It, however, recovered itfelf, and would, per- haps, have again attained its former confequence, had not Wyvil, bifliop of Salifbury, procured a grant from Edward III. to turn the great weftern road through that city; and on that grant being put in execution, the town gradually declined, fo that it is now but a mean place, and has only one church. It was incorporated by Henry VIII. and is governed by a mayor, a recoider, five aldermen, three capital burgeffes, eleven common-councilmen, a town-clerk, a king's bailiff, and a mayor's ferjeant. The county- S H I R Ei 75 courts are generally held here, and the knights of thefhire elected. Wilton is famous for a carpet manufacture, in which there are about eighty journeymen employed, who earn from ten to twelve fhillings a week. But the glory of this place is the magnificent palace belonging to the earl of Pembroke, called Wikon-houfe, which is juftly admired as one of the principal objects of curiofity in England. It was originally amonaftcry, fo that the difpofition of the apartments is irregular, through neceflity. The building, with regard to the feat, was begun in rhti reign of Henry VIII. and the great quadrangle finifhed in the reign of Edward VI. The porch was defigned bv Hans Holbein. The other parts, rebuilt by the firft earl of Pembroke, were all defigned by the famous Inigo Jones, and finifhed by him in the year 1640. In the court, before the grand front of the houfi;, {lands a column of white Egyptian granite, out of the Arundel collection. The heighth of the fhaft is thirteen feet and a half, and the diameter twenty-two inth'es. On the top of the column is a beautiful ftatue of Venn , caft from a model made at Rome, from the remaining pieces of the broken antique ftatue placed on this co- lumn before the temple of Venus Genetrix, by Julius Caefar. The column v/as never erected fince it fell in the ruins of Old Rome, till fet up here, with a Corinthian capital, and bafe of white marble, which makes the whole thirty- three feet high. On the lower fillet of this column are five letters, which having the proper vowels fupplied, make Astarte, the name by which Venus was worfhipped among the ancient nations of the eaft. In the front of the houfe, on each fide of the entrance, are two ftatues of black marble, taken out of the ruins of a palace in Egypt, where the viceroys of Perfia refided rqany years after Cambyfes returned to Perfia from the conqueft of Egypt. One of the ftatues is crowned with an ancient diadem; the other has a garment on his flioui- ders, of different coloured marble. In the great gateway is a ftatue of Shakefpeare by Schee- maker, in the fame attitude with that in Wcftminfter- abbey : but the lines on the fcroll are different ; thefe are cut of Macbeth : Life's but a walking fhadow, a poor player, That ftruts and frets his hour upon the ftage, And then is heard no more! In the middle of the inner court is a large pedeftal, on which is a horfe as big as life. In this pedeftal are four niches, furnifhed with four ftatues ; the fir ft is that of Jupiter Ammon, not only with ram's horns, but alfo with a whole ram on his fhoulders : it was taken out of a temple in Thrace, faid to have been built by Sefoftris. On the right hand is the father of Julius Caefar, when governor of Egypt. The next is Plautina, the wife of Caracalla, dreffed like Diana the huntrefs. In the middle of the veftibule, which is adorned with thirteen ancient bufts, is the ftatue of Apollo, out of the Juftinian gallery. He appears with a moft graceful air, in a refting pofture, having hung his quiver upon a laurel. In the dining-room are feveral beautiful figures, by eminent mafters. On each fide of the door is a capital picture ; one by Tintoret, representing our Saviour wafh- ing St. Peter's feet, the other difciples being prefent ; the other by Andrea Schiavone, reprefenting Chrift entering Jerufalem riding upon an afs. Over the door is a picture of ftill life by Labradore. Among the pictures round the room are, the Virgin Mary, with our Saviour in her lap; alfo St. Jofeph, St. Peter, and the painter Andrew Squazzella; a boy gathering fruit, by Michael Angelo Paci di Campi ; a winter-piece, with many figures, by Velvet Brughel ; a fummer-piece, with a multitude of figures, by Brughel ; three angels coming to Abraham, by Pafqualini. The arch of the beaufet is fupported by two porphyry pillars, brought by lord Arundel from Rome, Over the chimney-piece, which is by Inigo Jones, WILTSHIRE. 76 Jones, are the bufts of Solon, and the emperor Per- tinax. At the entrance of the drawing-room is an antique pavement, compofed of four forts of marble, of gradual lights and fhjdows, as if cubes {rood upon a plane j found under feme ruins at Luna, a Roman city about fixty miles eaft of Genoa. In the drawing-room are feveral very beautiful pic- tures ; among which are, four children, reprefenting our Saviour, an angel, St. John, and a little girl. T he angel is lifting a lamb to St. John, who has his left hand upon it, and in difcourfe with our Saviour, as they are all fitting clofe together. Behind our Saviour is a tree, and a vine growing upon it, with grapes thereon. The girl, perhaps a fymbolical rcprefentation of the chriftian church, has hold of the vine with one hand, and in the other a bunch of grapes, which fhe is offering to our Sa- viour. This is allowed to be thebefr picture in England of the famous Rubens. A whole length of Democritus laughing, very much efteemed. By Spagnolet. Chrift dead, furrounded by angels. Bufalmaco. The harmony between fculpture and painting ; a very fine piece. Romanelli. Variety of fruits and vines, growing up a pomgranate- tree, and two gatherers of the vintage ; one a young man, the other a young woman, as big as the life. The former looks down on the latter, while he is gathering fome fruit for her : as he reaches up to the twig, his fhirt flips down from one moulder, and fnows his fkin there not to be tanned. Michael Angelo, the painter of this picture, was famous for travelling figures : of this kind there appears, at a diftance, a man driving an afs. Sir Roberts Gere gave Michael Angelo's widow three hundred piftoles for this picture, which he would never part with. The angel and young Tobias. The figures arc fine, and thelandfcape part very beautiful. Adam Elfheimer. A charity with three children. This picture v/as formerly in the collection of king Charles I. Guido. m A nativity on copper, neatly finifhed. Rubens. The three kings, or wife men, prefenting their offer- ings. In this piece, which is one of this painter's beft colouring, there are feveral horfes, and many other figures at different diftances, with a glorious light break- ing through the clouds, in which are a group of cheru- bims. Paolo Veronefe. The decollation of St. John, by Dobfon. This painter is an honour to the Englifh nation ; the picture being fo finely executed, and with fuch ftrong expreffion, that very few pieces of the Italians exceed it. Sir Peter Lely reckoned this piece the chief hiftorical picture in his polIeiTion. The allumption of the Virgin Mary. This is one of the firft pictures painted by the immortal Raphael. The angel as fpeaking to Tobias about the fifh, which is fwimming up to them. The dog is between Tobias's legs, barking at the fifh. Procacino. A landfcape with figures dancing. Poclembourg. Our Saviour carrying the crofs. Andrea del Sarto. Some market-people. Crefpi. The virgin with Chrift. Solan". Hercules and Dejanira. Giovanni Montoano. The virgin with Chrift and Jofeph. Fr. Imperiali. The virgin teaching our Saviour to read. Guercino. The river Tyber, Romulus and Remus fucking the wolf. Del Pc. A fhepherd and fhepherdefs. Bloemart. Bacchus and Ariadne. BUSTOS on the Chimney-piece. Libertas and Libera. Over the Looking-glafs. The bufto of Otho. A porphyry table. In the Great Hall, among a great variety of flatties, bujtos, and farcophagufes, are the following : Fauftina, wife of Antoninus Pius, larger than the life ; the drapery very good. A Pantheon, having the fymbols of three divinities, a cornucopia with fruit for Vertumnus ; out of it, grapes for Bacchus; and a fea-fiih for Neptune. The figure is a comely man in the prime of his ftrenjith and age, with- out any beard, and therefore is prooably an Apollo, larger than the life. One of the labours of Hercules. He is reprefented rs turning the river Achelous, who is figured as nn old man, his thighs end in fnakes, to figniiy the winding of the river. In a Niche. Antinous. A bufto of Marcus Aurelius, when Cnefar. A bufto of Portia, wife of Brutus. The picture of Brutus on her breaft, a necklace about her neck, and a diadem on her head ; being the only one known with a picture. A Sarcophagus adorned in the front in alto relievo, two Cupids holding two feftoons of fruits; over each feftoon are two heads of the Heathen deities; under one of the feftoons is a lion and an ox, Under the other a goat and a cock. Upon the foregoing tomb is Euterpe the mufe, fitting with a flute, very fine fculpture. Cleomenes. A bufto of Didia Clara, daughter of Didius Julianus. Her right hand is holding up part of her cloathing ; two little Cupids at the btttor.i of the bufto The bufto on the chimney-piece is of Thomas earl of Pembroke, who collected the antique marbles. A bufto of Nero. The lhape of his left arm and hand feen through his robe, two little Cupi js at the bottom of the bufto. A Sarcophagus. In the middle of the front is a circle, wherein is reprefented the half lengths of a man and a woman, for whom it may be fuppofed the tomb was made; the other part of the front is fluted work ; at one end is a lion with a unicorn under him ; at the other end a lion, with a wild boar under him ; at the bottom, un- der the circle, are two mafks, one of thern bearded, the other having a veil upon the upper part. A queen of the Amazons, beautiful, though in a war- like action, being on one knee, as under a horfe, defend- ing herfelf in battle. To illuftrate the action, the fculptor has carved a horfe's foot. Her bufkin plainly fhews the ancient fhape and manner of fixing it. Cleomenes. A bufto of Lucilla, the wife of Elius, very fine fculpture. In a Niche. Mercury. A bufto of Apollo. Hercules, not long before he died. He leans ready to fall, and looks very fick, and Paean his friend looks up at him very much concerned. The expreffion of the mufcles anatomifts greatly admire. Silenus and Bacchus, a group, very fine. Flora. This, and the foregoing one, (both of the Parian marble) were a prefent to the firft Philip earl of Pembroke, by the duke of Tufcany, who, in king Charles the firft's time, was in England, and refided at Wilton, with the faidearl, three weeks. The buftos of Lyfimachus, Lepidus, and Phocion. A Sarcophagus adorned with a fine column of the Co- rinthian order at each end ; in the middle is graved a double door, partly open, which confirms what ancient authors have laid, that fome were fo made, that the foul might go out to the Elyfian fields. At each end of the tomb is a griffin. In the gallery of this hall are five fuits of armour'; that in the middle was William earl of Pembroke's, the other four and the parts of five more fuits in the lower part of the hall were taken from the following noble perfons, on the following occafion. This earl, in the reign of queen Mary, was captain-general of the Englifh forces at the fiege of St. Quintin, at which fiege were taken prifoners the conftable Montmorency, Montheron, his fon, with the dukes of Montpenfier and Longueville, Lewis of Gonzaga, (afterwards duke of Nevers) the marfhal of St. Andre, admiral Coligny, (who was afterwards mur- dered in the maffacre at Paiis) and his brother, not to mention John de Bourbon, duke of Anguien, who was found dead among the flain. Here are alfo fome of the weapons which were taken at the fame time. A picture WILTSHIRE. 7? A picture of the above-mentioned earl of Pembroke, by Hans Holbein. A picture of the laft fupper. Giorgione. ' At the bottom of the Brozvn Stair-cafe are., A colofial ftatue pf Hercules. His action is to fhew one of his labours ; he looks with an air of fatisfaction that he has compail'ed the taking of the golden apples, three of which he fhews in one hand. This is not in a refling pofture- as that of Farnefe. The tomb of Aurelius Epaphroditus. This monument is one of the fineft and moll inftructive that hath been ever feen. The excellence of the work, and correclnefs of the defign, would eafily inform us it mult be a piece of fome Greek artifl, even though the place where it was firft difcovered did not. It is a tomb near Athens, which was difcovered by fome travellers, who brought it over into F ranee to prelent it to cardinal Richlieu. The tomb is of white marble, fix feet four inches long, and two feet broad, and about the fame heighth, taking in the cover, which is about two inches and a half thick ; the cover is raifed about one foot higher before, and is adorned with fome figures in bas-relief, which relate to the hiftory reprefented below. The inner fuper- Jicics of the tomb is plain, with a rifing of about one inch in the place where the head of the deceafed Ihould reft. This is the epitaph, ©. K. AJfPHAIfi EI1A4>P0AEITO SYMBiri ANTONIA BAAEPIA E0HK.E. That is, to the Gods the Manes. Antonia Valeria hath made this tomb for Aurelius Epaphroditus, her hufband. There ftands upon this tomb a coloffal buft of Alex- ander the Great, of the beft Greek fculpture, Medufa's head is on the breaft-plate, a lion's face appears on the helmet, which has a particular creft on it. Under the tomb laft mentioned is A little ftatue of a crouched Bacchus. A fmall tomb, fuppofed for children. There are two Cupids on the front, fapporting a circle which projects ; under the circle are two bafkets lying fidewife with fruit in them ; a lion at each bafket, as going to devour the fruit ; at the ends of the front are two more Cupids ; they look very forrowful, with one hand upon their breaft, the other hand holding a torch with the lighted end downward : there is a griffin at each end of the tomb. A ftatue of Cupid lying afleep upon the afore- faid tomb. In the two windows of the Stair-cafe, and in four niches, ( one on each fide of the windows ) are fix Jlatucs. In the firft window is the ftatue of Livia, wife of Au- guftus, bigger than the life, fitting in a chair, one hand iupported by a Patera, to fhew that fhe was honoured as Pietas, in which character fhe is alfo feen on a medal, the drapery very natural. In the niche on your left hand. Saturn with a child finding on his hands as it looks up at him. In the niche on your right hand. Bacchus clad with an intire fkin, the head of which appears on his breaft : his fandal is fixed in a manner differing from others. In the other window. The ftatue of Didia Clara, daughter to Julian, bigger than the life, fitting in a chair; fhe holds a fenatorial roll in a genteel pofture; the drapery of her cloathing very fine. In the niche on your left hand. A fhepherd playing on the flute, admired for the action of his fingers, a goat ftanding by him. In the other niche. The fofter-father of Paris, with the Phrygian bonnet and fhepherd's coat of fkins. In the pajfige leading into the Billiard-room are, The builo of Cleopatra, Alexander the Great's fifter. The ilatue of Diana : ihe has a crefcent on her hear 1 , holds part of a bow in her left hand, and takes an arrow with her right out of her quiver. A ftatue of Ceres : a cornucopia in her right hand, in her left fhe holds ears of corn and a poppy ; a very gen- teel figure and fine fculpture. The bufto of Mutidia, daughter of Marciana. On the oppofite Side. The bufto of Poffidonius, preceptor to Cicero. The ftatue of Andromeda chained to the rock. The ftatue of Mercury, with all his three fymbols, wings, Caduceus, and a purfe in his hand held up; he has wings alfo at his heels, as well as at his head. A ftatue of a boy : he is dancing and playing on mufic. The bufto of Heraclitus. In the Window. A fquare urn of the emperor Probus and his fifter Claudia ; their names ate in a fquare in the center of the front ; there are feftoons at the fides of the infeription ; over it is an eagle ftanding upon a feftoon of fruits, front out of whofe wings come two ferpents; they are folded up in ringlets, with their heads directed towards the head of the eagle : at the bottom is a tripod, with a griffin on each fide of it ; at each angle of the front is a wreathed column ; the angles next to the back part are fluted pilafters, between which and the columns is a laurel- tree ; in the pediment of the cover are two birds, that hold in their bills the ends of a ftring which tyes a wreath of laurel ; on the top of the cover are, in alto- relievo, the emperor and his fifter. On the right hand of the ivindow are the buflos of Ifocrates, Sulpitia Poeta in porphyry, Perfius the poet, Seneca, and Pythagoras. On the other Side. Colatinus, fellow-conful with Brutus. The Billiard Room- The left hand, on a white marble table, three ftatues, Pomona fitting in a chair on a cufhion. A figure recumbent, leaning on a fea-dog, and repre- fenting the river Meander. Hercules killing the ferpents. In the firft Jf'ilidow. The ftatue of Mark Anthony the orator, very much admired. Buftos between the firft Window and the fecond. Tullia, daughter of Cicero. Julia Domina, wife of Septimus Severus. Alexander Severus. In the ?niddle Window. The ftatue of Bacchus, very fine ancient fculpture, adorned in a particular manner with poppies: the poppies hang as a belt from both fhoulders as low as the knees. Buftos between this window and the next. Galba, Geta, Lucius, Vitellius Pater. In the third Window. The ftatue of Venus, ftanding in a very genteel eafy pofture, holding a vafe, which fhe has emptied, refting her elbow of that arm on a pillar. On the other Side of the third Window. The buftos of Nerva, Arfinoe the mother, and Caelius Caldus. On a white marble table of the fame length of that on the other fide of the room, are three ftatues. Hercules wreftling with Antaeus. A very fine Greek ftatue of a river, reprefented by a beautiful naiad fleeping on the bank, with a genteel turn of her body, the linen covering her very decently ; 'tis a river in Egypt running into the Nile, becaufe in the front an Ibis appears about the running water, which has feized a young crocodile. A young Bacchus fmiling, grapes growing up a tree. On the Chimney-fide, feven Buftos ; they are, Horace the confular, Drufilla, Ptolomy, brother of Cleopatra, Fallas, /Enobarbus, a prieft of Cybele, Lyfias the orator. X Over 78 W I L T S H I R E. Over the doors two Buftos. A Greek Cupid with agate eyes. Gryphina, daughter of Ptolomy Euergetes. PICTURES. Sufanna and the two elders, by Guercino. Fowls. Hundecouter. The Virgin, our Saviour, St. John, a lamb and a dove. Gennari. „ .„, Country people, and feveral forts of birds. primer. In the White Marble Table Room are, Four pictures in Crayons, (by Mr. Hoare of Bath. J The firft is of the Rev. Mr. Woodroffe of Wincheker ; the next is of Mrs. Wrettle, governante to the counted of Pembroke; the third is of Philip earl of Pembroke, from Vandvke ; the fourth is Sir Andrew Fountain. Over Mr. Woodroffe, a nativity. Carlo Cignani. Over the laft a half length of St. John. Giacinto B S^Tohn, preaching in the Wildernefs, containing twenty figures as big as the life In it are the faces of Tintoret and Titian; it coft earl Philip fix hundred piftoles. Palma. _ Over Mrs. Wrettle, the Virgin, our Saviour, bt. John and St. Catherine. Procacini. Over the laft, the Virgin and our Saviour. II .trate. In the IVindow is the Statue of Ifis. She has the flower of the Lotus on her head She is in a pofition bending, and her whole legs and arms appear round, not as commonly in Egyptian ftatues, which were (trait and formal, fhewing only the feet This was reckoned the oldeft, and (by the Ma- zarine catalogue) the only one known with that im- provement. It is a group, for (he holds, betwixt her knees, Ofiris, her hufband, in a coffin open, in one of whofe hands is a paftoral ftaff, crooked at the end as a ftiepherd's. In the other hand he has an inftrument of difcipline like a whip, the fymbols of power to proteel and punifh. On his head is the ancienteft diadem or mitre, being triple, yet not as the pope's crown, but Father like the mitre of bifhops, only with three points inftead of two at the top : Orus, her fon, is about her neck. There are a great multitude of hieroglyphics cuite round the bottom, and behind the ftatue. Over Philip, earl of Pembroke, the money-changers and people with the doves in the temple. Feti. Over the laft, the Roman charity. Petro Dandeni. Views of Covent-Garden and Lincoln's-Inn-Fields, as they were originally defigned by Inigo Jones Over Sir Andrew Founuin, a landfcape with the an- gel, Ha gar and Ifhmael. Pouffin. , Over the laft, the Virgin, St. Ann, old Jofeph and our Saviour, who is putting a ring on St. Catherine's finger. Julio Romano. A friar and a nun. Aldegraef. The falutation of the angel to the Virgin. Fran. Dam. A piece of ftill life, of fowls, and a young boar. Ga- briele Sulci. St. Jerome. Borgiano. Over the Doors. The buftos of Hefiod and Phaedra. On an EngUJh alabafter table. The ftatue of Cupid afleep. A white marble table, ten feet eight inches long, four feet fix inches wide, and four inches thick. The Chapel Room. Homer, Plato, Anacharfis, (over a marble chimney- piece of lnigo Jones) Mary Fitz-William, countefs of Pembroke, "Socrates, Ariftotle. Dido, Terence, Vibius, Volufanus, a bifrons of Ce- crops and his wife, in memory of inftituting marriage; leaves of fea-weed on his beard, in memory of his com- ing by fea from Egypt. M. Junius Brutus, Tiberius, Livy. A bifrons, two young women, their countenances dif- ferent, and fo are their curled locks ; one has a diadem, the other a triple contexture of her hair elegantly tied. Plautilla, Sextus Pornpey, Themiftocles, Lucius An- tonio, Annius Verus. Over the firfl Door. Curius Dentatus. On the window in the chapel is painted William earl of Pembroke, and his two fons. In another pannel is the countefs of Pembroke, who was Ann Parr, filter to queen Catharine, the laft wife to king Henry VIII. There is with her their daughter^ whole name was Ann, married to Francis earl of Shrews- bury. Over the door leading to the Cube-room. The bufto of Domitia. Begin the pictures with thofe over the bujlo of Homer. A nativity. By Giaco Triga. Thirty of the chief reformers, by adifcipleof Carlo Maratti. The flight into Egypt. Ventura Salembeni. The Virgin, our Saviour, St. John and an angel. Benardino Gatti. The head of an old man. Auguftin Caracci. The devil tempting our Saviour. Paris Alfano Perugia. Chrift in the manger. Calandrucci. Lot and his two daughters. Francefco Chini. Two Cupids holding a third upon their hands as car- rying him, another boy lying down by them. Sirani. The Virgin, old Jofeph, our Saviour and Elizabeth. Girolamo di Sermoneta. On the window- fide, begin on the left hand. Five foldiers, two expreffing great fury to tear Chrift's coat, another is gravely interpofing, as if he were per- fuading them to caft lots for its. Annibal Caracci. Noah with his family and animals going into the ark. BafTano. The Virgin, with our Saviour in her arms : Jofeph is looking on them. Guercino. When you enter the fouth front towards the garden (which whole front is a beautiful building of Inigo yones ) pafs through the cube-room into the hunting-room, the la/? room at the wejlern end of that front, and then begin from the bujlos on your left hand. Julia, incomparably fine Greek fculpture, and (as feveral others in this collection) of Parian marble. She was wife to Agrippa, and daughter of Scribonia, third wife to Auguftus. Antonia, wife of Drufus the elder. The linen of this buft is very natural. Berenice the mother ; her hair in a particular manner. Balbinus. The next are two ftatues, then proceed on with the bufts. Faunus finely twilling his body, by looking down over his fhoulder at his leopard. Cleomenes. Cupid, when a man, breaking his bow after he had married Pfyche. Cleomenes. Plotina, wife of Trajan. Berenice the daughter. Annia Fauftina, third wife of Heliogabalus ; very fine like that of Antonia. Mao-o, the famous Carthaginian. Titus, Faunus, Jupiter, Julia, daughter of Titus. On a yellow antique marble table. A group, Cupid and Ganymede : Ganymede is fitting and refting againft the ftump of a laurel. It is rare to fee the diftincT: form of the (even pipes, as here expreffed. Cupid is very attentively looking on and reaching his hand out toward the pipes, as if to inftrucl Ganymede how to play. On the pannels of the wainfcot are painted eighteen different forts of hunting, by Tempefta junior. BUSTOS in the Cube-room. Begin on the left hand coming out of the hunting-room. Mafliniffa king of Numidia, with the African bonnet on his head, the upper parts of two dragons, and the head of Medufa on his breaft-plate. Aventinus, fon of Hercules; the head of a lion's fkin, making the covering for his head, and the two fore-paws tied in a knot upon his right fhoulder ; an elegant per- formance. Iotape, wife to Antiochus Comngena. On WILT On a porphyry table. Apollonius Tyanaeus, the head and buft of one piece of marble. It is very lively in the attitude ; his arm is tucking his garment about him. On a porphyry table. Poppea, Nero's fecond wife ; her right hand is holding up part of her garment. Semiramis : at the bottom of the buft are two little Cupids. Lucanus, the head and buft of marble, fine fculpture. Csefonia, the bufto all of tranfparent alabafter, fourth wife of Caligula. Ausruftus, of Parian marble. On a jafper Marble table are the ftlloiving three objeSls: A nuptial vafe, reprefenting the whole ceremony of a Greek, wedding, from the beginning of the facrifice to the wafhing of the bride's feet : it is very fine work. The ftatue of Diana of Ephefus : the head, hands, and feet black, the reft white marble, as defcribed by Pliny. A Roman urn : variety of very fine work all round it, of figures, foliages, birds, &c. Prufias king of Bythinia, excellent fculpture, pairs with that of Auguftus. Metellus, no beard, by a very fine Greek fculptor ; all of a piece down to the navel ; the only one which {hews the ornament of a chain, which is of very rich work : on his breaft-plate is an elephant, a laurel quite round the outfide of it, the corifular medal with an elephant on the reverfe, the head of that is bearded, fuppofed to be a divinity, with the name only of Metellus; the elephant is in memory of the victory he gained over Jugurtha, king of Numidia, upon which he obliged him to deliver up all his elephants to the Romans. Meffalina, fifth wife of Claudius, of hard faline mar- ble; (he has a confident air, agreeable to her character; the marble of her cloathing very naturally reprefents a fine ftriped filk. Odtavia, the firft wife of Nero, of fine coloured mar- ble, her head-drefs alfo very fine, with leaves and ears of corn bound round upon her hair. This buft, and that of Poppea, are both very curious. On a marble table [the produce of Mount Edgcomb) are the five following : An ancient Greek triangular altar to Bacchus; on one fide Silenus holds a torch inverted in his right hand, in his left a bafket full of fruit ; on another fide is an at- tendant of Bacchus dancing with one foot up, and a Thyrfus in his right hand ; in his left hand a bowl and the flcln of a beaft on his arm ; on the other fide is a Bacchus dancing in a long thin garment. Upon this altar ftands a little ftatue of Bacchus, with grapes and with the fnake, the peculiar fymbol of the Egyptian Bacchus, who invented medicine, and was faid to be the Sun and Apollo. An alto relievo of Pyrrhus, the fon of Achilles ; it is an oval, and has a fplendid alpect as of a very large gem, the face is porphyry, which the cardinal Mazarine fo much valued, as to finifh his drefswith a helmet of dif- ferent coloured marble. A fquare altar, each of the fides has a divinity, Jupiter, Mars, Diana, and Juno ; this was one of thofe altars for a private room. Upon this altar ftands a little ftatue of an ancient prieft with a Phrygian cap, facrificing a hog to Ifis. Vefpafian, Trajan, Tmolus, an ancient law-giver and founder of a colony in the time of Apollo, fine fculp- ture, and much, adorned : this ftands upon a grey granite table which belonged to a temple, and was for the facri- ficing of lefler animals, as birds, &c> That the blood might not run over the edges, it has a remarkable chan- nel, as big as to lay one's finger in, round the utmoft edge of the four fides of the flat next the moulding, and in the middle of one of the channels is a hole for the blood to run through. Claudius, Pyrrhus king of Epirus, with a noble air; it has a dragon on the helmet, and on his breaft-plate there is a head with wings; it is like the head of a bat. SHIRE. 79 Begin the piclures with the two chuble half lengths, tohkk are between the two lafi buflos, then the two double half lengths on the other fide of the door. Mrs. Killcgrew and Mrs. Morton, celebrated beauties, by Vandyke. Mr. James Herbert and his wife. Sir Peter Lely. The earl and courttefsof Bedford. Vandyke. The countefs of Pembroke (mother of earl Thomas) and her fifter. Henry earl of Pembroke, when about feventeen years of age. William earl of Pembroke, elder brother to earl Thomas. • Lady Catherine, eldeft daughter to earl Thomas, (was married to Sir Nicholas Morice) and her brother' Mr. Robert Herbert. Thomas earl of Pembroke, when lord high admiral. Our Saviour, and the woman of Samaria. Giofeppe Chiari. The countefs of Pembroke, firft wife of earl Thomas. The Virgin, our Saviour, and Jofeph, reading ; there are alfo feveral boys in different actions. Gennari. In the deling. Dedalus and Icarus. Jofeph Arpino. On the bottom-panneh of this room is painted the hi/lory of the countefs of Pembroke's Arcadia, zvritten by Sir Philip Sidney. By the brother of Signior Tommafo. In the Great Room. The celebrated Family Piece. This confifts of ten whole lengths : the two principal figures (and thefe are fitting) are Philip earl of Pem- broke and his lady; on the right hand ffand their five fons, Charles lord Herbert, Philip (afterwards lord Her- bert) William, James and John; on the left, their daughter Ann Sophia, and her hufband Robert carl of Carnarvon ; before them lady Mary, daughter of George duke of Buckingham, and wife to Charles lord Herbert • and above in the clouds are two fons and a daughter, who died young. This, and all the other pictures in this room, are by Vandyke. On the right hand of the great picture, over a door, is an half length of king Charles the firft ; and on the left hand, over a door, an half length of his queen. On the chimney fide. A whole length of William earl of Pembroke, lord fteward. A whole length of the firft lady of the fecond earl Philip. Three children of king Charles the firft. Whole lengths of the dutchefs of Richmond, (firft married to Charles lord Herbert) and Mrs. Gibfon the dwarf. _ A whole length of earl Philip, who is in the great picture. Over a door. A half length of the countefs of Caftlehaven. Over another door. A half length of the fecond earl Philip. On the garden fide. A whole length of a daughter of the earl of Holland. A whole length of the duke of Richmond. The paintings in the ceiling reprefent feveral ftories of Perfeus. By Signior Tommafo. Begin the bujlos on the left hand the chimney fide, Marcellus, the famous conful. Drufus the elder, brother of Tiberius. Lucius Verus Caefar. Marcus Brutus, of the beft Greek fculpture. Caius Caefar, upon a green antique marble table. Hadrian. Upon the chimney-piece, two in copper. One Commodus, the other Polemon. Conftantine the Great, of better work than was com- mon in that age, as are alfo a few of his medals. Lucius Crefar, brother to Caius Caefar, upon an agate table. Julius Csefar, oriental alabafter, noted as may be feen by what is faid of it in Valetta's collection. The marble of the breaft-plate is of the colour of fteel. Antinous ; So Antinous j Sept. Scverus 5 Horace, in porphyry, men- tioned alfo in Valetta's collection. Fabretti, 111 his com- ment, gives good reafons for its being Horace. Marcus Aurelius, Antoninus Pius. Cicero, of touchftone, with the Ciccr The folloiving buflos on the garden fule are all of white marble, and the terms upon which they Jiand are of co- loured marbles. Artemis or Diana; her hair tied behind her, not to hinder her mooting ; the air of the whole buft is like the upper part of the celebrated ftatue of this goddefs, and thought to be by the lame fculptor. This (as feveral others) has in Greek letters, the Greek name on it. Marcellus the younger ; Caflandra, daughter of Pria- mus; fhe was a prophetefs, and had a temple, and therefore wears a peculiar head-drefs, with feveral bandages. Buft of Martin Folkes, Efq; upon a red Egyptian granite table. Ammonius, with a Greek infeription upon it. Arfinoe the daughter, Germanicus, Coriolanus. Bufto of Sir Andrew Fountain, upon a lapis Lazuli table - 1 A 1 *1 ' J Scipio Afiaticus, Caracalla, Vitellius, and Alcibiades. The lobby between the great room and the king's bed-chamber. Begin the piclures with that over the door, next the bed- chamber. An old man with feme fort of fweet-meat in a pot, which he fells to the children ; there are fix about him ; an extraordinary pleafure appears in all their countenances. Fran. Hales. There are four more piclures on the fame fide, begin at the lowefi. Some Dutch people playing at draughts, a woman by them cutting bread and butter for a boy who is faying grace. Egbert Hemfkirk. A young woman with a fhock-dog. Correggio. A piper. Giorgione. A Madona. Carlo Dolci. The fide over again/} the window. Neptune and Amphitrite, with feveral other figures. Luca Giordano. Under the laft arc four piclures, begin on the right hand. Bacchus, with a bowl in his left hand, his right arm reftino- on a vefTel, an old man emptying a bafket of grapes into a vat, a woman and boys with two bafkets of fruit, by a fcholar of Raphael. Two piclures, compofed of different forts of marble, out of the duke of Florence's collection. Chrift in the Virgin's arms, St. John is kiffing him, Jofeph is looking on them. Sciadone. Over the door, next to the great room. Chrift raifing Lazarus from the dead. Seb. Ricci. On the fame fide are four pictures, begin with the loiveft. King Richard II. &c. An elegant reprefentation of the king (in his youth) at his devotion, painted on two tables. In one he is reprefented kneeling by his three patron faints, St. John Baptift, king Edmund, and king Edward the Confeffor, having a crown on his head, clad in a robe adorned with white harts and broom-cods, in allufion to his mother's arms, and his own name of Plantagenifta. Thus he is praying to the Virgin Mary with the infant in her arms (on the other table) fur- rounded with chriftian virtues, in the fhape of angels, with collars of broom-cods about their necks, and white harts on their bofoms; one holding up a banner of the crofs before them, and on the ground are lillies and rofes. St. John Baptift holds a lamb in his left arm ; king Edward the Confeffbr holds a ring between the thumb and fore-finger of his left hand ; king Edmund holds an arrow in his left hand ; all their right hands are directed to king Richard, as prefL-nting him to our Saviour, who inclines himfelf in a very kind manner towards them. There are eleven angels reprefented, each of them hav- ing a wreath or' white rofes round their heads. The dif- pohtior. of their countenances, and aclion of their hands, is defigned to £hew that their attention is employed about WILTSHIRE. king Richard. On the glory round our Saviour's head you may fee the crofs reprefented in it, and round the extremity of the orb are fin a 1 1 branches of thorns. On two brafs plates on the bottom of the picture is engraved, Invention of Painting in Oil, 1410. This was painted before in the beginning of Richard II. 1377. Hollar engraved and dedicated it to kingCharles I. and calls it Tabula Anthjua of king Richard II. with his three faints and patrons, St. J hn Baptift, and two kings, St. Edmund, and Edward the ConfefTor. A half length of Titian, by himfelf. A pair, ruins, landfcapes and figures. Viviano. On the Garden Side. Buildings perfpective, and figures. Seb. & Marco Ricci. Under the laft are three Piclures. St. Sebaftian fhot with arrows. Benedetto Luti. A nativity, *by Jan Van Eyck, 1410. Ruins and figures. Paolo Panini. B U S T O S. Begin at the door next the Great Room. Marcus Modius ; a very fine buft with a Greek in- feription upon it. Afinius Poliio. On a black and yellow-coloured marble table, an alto relievo of the prefent earl of Pembroke, when ten years old. Scheemaker. Seneca, Sappho, with the bandage as deified, of the fineft marble like ivory, the laft perfection of Greek fculpture ; white as at firft making, becaufe (with feveral here) found in a vault. The King's Bed Chamber. Over the Chimney. The half length of a gentleman, fuppofed to be prince Rupert. Vandyke. On an antique marble table. Marcus Aurelius on horfeback, made at Athens, and fo efteemed, that the fculptor was fent for to Rome, to make that which is there in copper as big as the life. The perfon is in the fame pofture, but this a Macedonian horfe, fmall, and of marble : to prevent the breaking, cardinal Mazarine had one fide cemented to a marble, which comes out at the bottom, fquared as a pavement, on which the horfe is as walking. The Corner Room. Over the door next to the King's bed-chamber. Narcifius feeing himfelf in the water. In this piece are feven Cupids in various actions. Pouflin. On the fame fide are feven more piclures. Andromache fainting on her hearing of the death of her hufband Hector. Here are twenty-five figures. Primaticcio. A man forcing a boy to take phyfic. BamboccK The head of Mieres. Himfelf. Midas's judgment. Philippo Lauri. A young woman holding a candle. Schalken, Mars and Venus. Vanderwerfe. St. Anthony. Correggio. On the Chimney Side. An herdfman with cattle, as big as the life. Rofa di Tivoli. A carpet, and a large boar's head. Maltefe. The countefs of Pembroke, and lord Herbert, after- wards carl of Pembroke, when very young. Mr. Hoare of Bath. The Virgin, Jofeph, Elizabeth, and Chrift, who is putting a ring on St. Catherine's finger. Anguifciola. Pyrrhus brought dead out of the temple. They are putting him into his chariot. Several figures appear in great furprife. Pietro Tefta. The Side next to the outer Court. The difcovcry of Achilles. Salviati. In the Arundel catalogue, it isfaid, that his lordfhip defired Rubens to paint for him a fine finifhed clofet- piclure, which is this piece, being on an old Flemifh. board, mod beautifully coloured. There is a group at bottom of nine angels, ail in different poftures, as raifing the cloud under the Virgin Mary. There are feveral pretty cherubims heads at the fide and at the top. It fo muck WILTSHIRE. 81 much pteafed Rubens, that he faid he would make a great picture after it, which he did at a church in a convent at Antwerp, where he has added apoftles, as big as the life. Belfhazzai's feaft. A multitude of figures. A great aflonifnment appears in all the company at the table. By Old Frank. Judith putting Holofernes's head into a fcrip, which is held open by her maid. Mantegna. On the other Side of the Window begin at the loivefl. Our Saviour about two years old, fitting on a {tone, a lamb is {landing by him and licking his hand, in which he holds a ftring, which is tied to the leg of a dove, which fits in a little open-worked bafket. There are two other figures. The rays from the glory round our Saviour's head ftrike a fine light upon them. One of them hasher hand upon the dove. Paola Matthei. Chrift from the crofs, two boys holding up the arms, and the Virgin devoutly ftretching out her hands. At a diftance appear the three crofTes, and a group of little figures with a horfe. It was made for Henry II. king of France, which he gave to his miftrefs, Diana Valentinois, and therefore two Vs. are on a palat hung on one of the trees, and on the painted flat frame, in one corner are the arms of France, in another a monogram of the firft letters of their names ; the other two corners the em- blems of Diana, three half moons in one, a quiver and bow in the other. Michael Ange-lo. A Madona, very fine, with feven ftars round her head. Carlo Maratti. The Garden Side. Bacchus on an altar in the wood, many figuers about it celebrating his myfteries, and fhewing a great fpirit, in different poftures. The light darts through the wood in a moft agreeable manner. Salvator Rofa. An aflumption of the Virgin. On the other Side of the Window. ^.Ceres {landing with a moft genteel air, holding up wheat. Given by the duke of Parma to the earl of Pe- terborough, when he conducted James the feeond's queen to England. Parmegiano. Chrill taken from the crofs ; ten other figures, with Itrong expreffions of the folemnity. The Virgin has her right hand under our Saviour's head, as lifting him up, while Jofeph of Arimathea (who is richly dreffed) is wrapping the linen-cloth round him. Behind Jofeph are two men ; one of them has the fuperfcription in his hand, and the crown of thorns upon his arm; the other is as talking to him, pointing with one hand to the Vir- gin, and the other towards Jofeph. On the other fide is St. John, with his hands folded together, and fhews great concern. Mary Magdalene is wiping off the blood, and wrapping the linen round our Saviour's feet. Mary, the fifter of the Virgin, is as fpeaking to Nicodemus, who is as giving directions about the fpices. Behind them are two men, one holds the nails taken from the crofs, the other holds the hammer and pinchers. Here isalfo the tomb fhewn, and the people rolling the ftone from the entrance of it, and mount Calvary, with bones and fcull's fcattered about where the croffes ftand, with the view of the multitude returning into Jerufalem : at a diftance a landfcape, with rocks, &c. Albert Durer. 7 hree by the door, begin at the /owe/?. Venus and the three Graces. Andrea Camaffei. The defccntof the Holy Ghoft. Salembeni. The Virgin with Chrift in her lap. Doflb da Ferrara. Three by the Window. Day reprefented by Apollo riding upon a cloud, drawn by four horfes ; Night reprefented by a figure with dark wings, and poppies round her head. By her are two owls flying. Solimcne. Chrift taken from the crofs. Figino. Chrift in the Virgin's lap, he holds St. John by the hand. Lorenzo Garbieri. In the 'cieling, the converfion of St. Paul. St. Paul is ftruck from his horfe, he and his company appear in great furprize. Luca Giordano. On a table, whereon cards, cjf c. are reprefented, is the fiatuf of Morpheus, the god of fleep, in black touchftone, his head wjeathed with poppies, and a poppy in one hand. 9 In the Clofet. The Virgin with Chrift about four years old, as big as the life, ftanding by her, a figure as graceful as Ra- phael Urbin. The Virgin is as talking to St. John. More backward, at her right lide^ is a woman with a child in her arms, both with graceful countenances. A little figure of a faint is praying at a diftance in a corner of the landfcape, and an angel in the clouds. By Andrea del Sarto. The Virgin ; our Saviour is refting his head and right hand on herbofom. Bloemartjun. A landfcape, cattle, and travellers) horfes with packs. Berchem. A fhepherdefs in a ftraw-har, reprefenting the prin- cefs Sophia. Gerard Honthorft. A landfcape with figures. Orizonte* A Flemifh fchool. The painter is Gonfales, com- monly called the Little Vandyke. St. Sebaftian fhot with arrows. Paolo Veronefe. Chrift lying on ftraw in a manger. Vandyke. The prodigal fon going abroad. Wouverman. Chrift aftride upon a lamb, is held by the Virgin, old Jofeph is looking on and leaning on a ftaff. Francifco Penni. The Virgin, with Chrift in her lap. Raphael. A landfcape, with rocks, water, and three travellers. Bartolomeo. The prodigal fon returning home. Wouverman.' Magdalene, as a penitent, overlooking the vanities of the world. Below her are fix boys, as Cupids ; they are handling of jewels, &c. By a fcholar of Guido. The Virgin reading, with Chrift in her lap. Albano. A landfcape, with a man carrying a fifiiing-net. Francefco Bolognefe. Over the door, Mary Magdalene. Titian. On the bow-window and chimney-fide. The Virgin, holding Chrift in her lap: St. John has led a lamb to him. Chrift is looking at an angel below on the ground, gathering flowers : old Jofeph is higher up, with an afs by him. Cantarini. Our Saviour afcending, with the four emblems of the Evangelifts at the bottom of the clouds : two angels are fupporting his arms. Giulio Romano. Apoljo fleaing of Marfyas. Piombo. Two whole lengths of two kings of France, Fran- cis II. and Charles IX. Fred. Zucchero. King Edward VI. Hans Holbein. Chrift killing St. John, by Andrea Salaino, fcholar of Leonardo da Vinci. The women bringing the little children to Chrift. Sebaftian Bourdon. Three children of king Henry VII. Arthur, prince of Wales, Henry, about three years old, (was afterwards king Henry VI II. ) and Mary, who married the king of France. Hans Holbein, the father. The Virgin and old Jofeph teaching Chrift to read. Bernardino Gatti. The Virgin, with Chrift in her lap ; St. John has hold of his right foot with his right hand. Gio Bat. Vico. The nativity. Pontormo. Ifaac blefling of Jacob. Lazarini. The Virgin, with Chrift leaning the back part of his head againft her breaft. He has a bird in his right hand. Crefpi. Chrift in the Virgin's arms, the ftraw below ; three angels are looking on. Carlo Maratti. The Virgin, exceedingly fine, the veil painted with Ultra Marine. Maria di Fiori painted the flowers with which the Virgin is furrounded. Carlo Dolci. Our Saviour taken from the crofs ; the Virgin fhews great concern. There are three other figures by them, and angels in the clouds. Valerio Cartel! i. The marriage of Jofeph with the Virgin. Auguft, TaiTo. The Holy Family ; faints reprefented praying at the bottom of the picture. Pietro Pietri. In the cieling, the birth of Venus : fhe is rifing out of the fea ; the three Graces are attending her : there are alfofive Cupids in different actions. Lorenzino da Bo- logna. Y On 22 WILTSHIRE. On a table of black and yellow marble, whereon cards, &c. are reprefented, lyes A ftatue of Cupid afleep. In the inner Part of the Clofet. The flight into Egypt. Giovanini. The nativity. Theodoro. The circuincifion of Chrift. Paolo Fiorentino. Abraham's fteward putting the bracelets on Rebecca's hands at the well. Pietro Bambini. A landfcape. Claude Lorrain. The Virgin holding our Saviour by his arms ; St. John embracing him: old Jofeph is reading. Ludovico Carracci. The judgment of Paris. Rotenhamer. Eight fmall buftos upon gilded mafk truffes. Tithonus, divinity of the morning. Venus of Medici. Bacchus, very beautiful work. Crifpina, wife of Com modus. Fauna, (the female divinity of Faunus is very rare.) A Pantheon of a peculiar marble, and in the old Ter- mini way : it has the fymbols of Ammon, Mavors, and Thoth. Epicurus, valued by cardinal Mazarine, there being no other of him. Achilles, adorned at the breaft, having rams on his helmet: a young face, fmall, and very neat work. This room is the eaft end of Inigo Jones's building, the whole of which is efteemed a very complete piece of architecture. From the windows of thefe apartments is the following view: The garden, or rather a beautiful lawn, planted with various trees. The river, which earl Henry much enlarged. The bridge, which the faid earl built from Palladio's defign. Between fome fine large cedar trees, a fall of water by the Stable Bridge. A piazza (the front of the ftables) by Inigo Jones. A wood in the park upon a hill, on which ftands in one part, a thatch'd houfe ; in another, an equeftrian ftatue of Marcus Aurelius, upon an arch ; the profpecl: on that fide being terminated with the Plain or Downs, on which are the horfe-races. The engine-houfe, with two orna- mented fronts, one front towards the houfe, the other towards the park. The cold bath, and upon it a com- plete caft of the fine ftatue of Antinous at Rome. An arcade, the front of which was originally that of a grotto, by Inigo Jones. Not only the fpire, but the whole weft front of Salifbury cathedral. Clarendon park, and places adjacent. At the bottom of the geometrical ft air- cafe. The urn of Horace j on one fide of which is this infcription : DM HOR. FLACC. PUS MAR. PAMPH. MIN FA FECIT. Diis Manibus Horatii Flacci, the other letters to fecit probably relate to the perfon who had the urn made ; but they were defaced, and fince mended, as they thought they faw the traces of former letters : the other part is the apotheofis of a lyric poet. There is a woman in a loofe garment, holding a burning torch, as one of the mufes : another holds a lyre in her left hand, and a volume in her right, which {he offers to a third woman with large wings, reprefenting Fame. Near them ftands a great altar, adorned with a crown. In an obfcure corner fits a figure with his head reclined, which fome think may be Momus, or Zoilus. They are genteel figures, and elegantly cloathed. It is baflb-relievo. In the Stone Hall. A little ftatue of a boy, as darting himfelf to catch fomething on the ground. A farcophagus : in a round in the front is the bufto of a man. It is remarkable, ift, That the phyfiognomy by the fculptor is unfiniftied, as they purpofely did, to fhow that man could not hit the likenefs of the fplendor they appeared in, after they were deicended to the Elyfium 2dly, This has the ornaments of two cornucopias, to {how the plenty of fruits, &c. which they enjoy in the Elyfian fields. 3 but vaftly decayed, efpe- cially the cornice, in which fuch deep holes are cor- roded, that in fome places the daws make their nefts in them. The next trilithon on the left is intire, compofed of three moft beautiful ftones. The cornice, happening to be of a very durable Englifh marble, has not been much impaired by the weather. Our author took a walk on the top of it, but thought it a frightful fituation. The trilithon of the upper end was an extraordinary beauty; but probably, through the indifcretion of fome- body digging between them and the altar, the noble im- port is diflodged from its airy feat, and fallen upon the altar, where its huge bulk lies un fractured. The two uprights that fupported it^ are the moft delicate ftones of the whole work. They were, our author thinks, above thirty feet long, and well chiffelled, finely tapered and proportioned in their dimenfions. That fouthward is broken in two, lying upon the altar. The other ftill itands intire, but leans upon one of the ftones of the inward oval ; the root-end, or unhewn part of both, is railed fomewhat above ground. The trilithon towards the weft is intire, except that fome of the end of the im- port: is fallen clean off, and all the upper edge is very much diminifhed by time. The laft trilithon, on the right hand of the entrance into the Adytum, has fuffered much. The outer upright, being the jamb of the en- trance, is ftill ftanding ; the other upright and import; are both fallen forwards into the Adytum, and broke each into three pieces, as fuppofed, from digging near it. That which is ftanding has a cavity in it, which two or three perfons may fit in warm from the weather Stone-henge is compofed of two circles and two ovals, refpectively concentric. The ftones that form thefe ovals rife in height as nearer the upper end of the Ady- tum, and their mediate meafure in four cubits and four palms. They are of a much harder kind than the larger ftones in the lefTer circle ; the founders no doubt intend- ing, that their lefTer bulk fhould be compenfated by fo- lidity. Of. thefe there are only fix remaining upright : the flumps of two are left on the fouth fide by the altar ; one lies behind the altar dug up, or thrown down, by the fall of the upright there. One or two were probably thrown down by the fall of the upright of the firft tri- lithon on the right hand ; a ftump of another remains by the upright there ftill ftanding. The whole number of ftones may be thus computed : The great oval confifts of ten uprights; the inner with the altar of twenty; the great circle of thirty ; the inner of forty, which are one hundred upright ftones ; five im- ports of the great oval ; thirty of the great circle ; the two ftones on the bank of the area ; the ftone lying with- in the entrance of the area, and that ftanding without ; there feems to be another lying on the ground, -by the vallum of the court, directly oppofite to the entrance of the avenue : all added together, make juft one hundred and forty ftones, the number of which Stone-henge, a whole temple, is compofed. Behold the folution of the mighty problem ! the magical fpell, which has fo long perplexed the vulgar, is broken ! They think it an omi- nous, if not an impoflible thing, to count the true num- ber of the ftones, and whoever does fo, fhall certainly die after it ! As to the altar, it is laid toward the upper end of the Adytum, at prefent flat on the ground, and fqueezed into it, as it were, by the weight of the ruins upon it. 'Tis a kind of blue coarfe marble, fuch as comes from Derbyfhire, and is laid upon tombs in our churches and church yards. Our author believes its breadth is two cubits three palms, and that its firft intended length was ten cubits, equal to the breadth of the trilithon, before which it lies. But it is very difficult to come at its true length. 'Tis twenty inches thick, a juft cubit, and has been fquared. It lies between the two centers, that of the compartes and that of the firing ; leaving a conveni- ent fpace quite round it, no doubt as much as was ne- ceflary for this miniftration. The heads of oxen, deer, and other beafts, have been found upon digging in and about Stone-henge, un- doubted reliques of facrifices, together with wood-afhes. Mr. Camden fays, mens bones have been found here- abouts ; he means in the adjacent barrows; and fuch our author faw thro horfes, cheefe, and bacon. At - HAM At a fmall village called South Badefley near this town, there was a preceptory of the knights Templars, and af- terwards of St. John of Jerufalem, valued at one hun- dred and eighteen pounds fixtcen (killings and feven pence per annum. During our ftay at Lymington fome bufinefs of im- portance called us to Winchefter the capital of Hamp- fhire, and which we mall therefore now defcribe. Winchefter, or Winton, which is alfo the metropolis of the ancient Belg;e. It ftands upon the Itching, in a vale, where another fmall river joins it, fixty-feven miles from London. 'Tis the Venta Belgarum of Pto- lemy and Antoninus, from whence its bifhops are often called, in our hiftories, Ventanus. The Britons named it Caer Gwent, the old Saxons Wintanceafter, and the Latin writers Wintonia. Leland derives the name from the Britifhword guin, orguen, i. e. white, as if it fhould fignify caer gwin, or the white city, becaufe of its fi- tuation in a foil of chalk, or whitilh clay ; for it lies in a bottom like an amphitheatre, furrounded with chalky hills. 'Tis fuppofed to have been built nine hundred years before Chrift. Undoubtedly this city was very famous in the time of the Romans, when according to Cujacius and Pancirollus, there were looms here for weaving cloths for the emperors, and their army, and for making fails, linen Ihrouds, and other neceflaries for the furniture of their manfions or quarters. Our hiftorians tells us, that in the time of the Romans, Con- ftans the monk lived here, when his father Conftantine firft fet himfelf up for emperor; and that, upon his be- ing routed and flain, the monk was taken out of this eity, and put to death, in revenge for his own, as well as his father's ambition. That their was a college of re- ligious men here, in the earlieft times of Chriftianity, is generally agreed ; and the old piece of wall, near the Weft gate of the cathedral, is thought to be the remains cf it. 'Tis of great ftrength and thicknefs, with feve- ral windows in it ; confifts of fmall flints, with morter as hard as ftone ; and is fuppofed to have been a Roman building. Qn St. Catherine's hill, near this city, is a camp ; and on the fide of the weft gate was a caftle, where the Weft Saxon kings are fuppofed to have kept their court. As to king Arthur's exploits in thefe parts, Sj^ii his round table in the caftle, with his two dozen of knights, that he ufed to caroufe with, they are deem'd equally fabulous, f As to the table, fays Mr. Cambden, 8 which iliil hangs up, it plainly appears to be of much * later d..te; For in former ages, when tournaments * were made ufe of, by way of military exercife, to train ' up their foldiers, they had thefe round tables, that * there might be no difpute among the noble comba- ' tants for precedency. And this feems to have been a * very ancient cuftom. For Atheneus tells'us, That the * old Gauls did fit at round tables, and their armour- * bearers ftood at their backs.' This table, which is one pisce of wood, isftill Ihewn at the hall where the aiuzes are kept. 'Tis a piece of antiquity, pretended to be of above 1200 years ftanding ; and there are illeg- ible Saxon characters, faid to be the names of twenty-four lyiights. The hall is fupported by marble pillars. Fox tells us, That Kinegulfe, a king of the Mer- cians, firft founded the church here, which is one of the richeft and nobleft fees in the kingdom, and has been fo much talked of all over Europe, that though, for other particulars of its antiquity and original, we refer to Dugdale's Monafticon, bifhop Godwin, Mr. Gale, &c. yet we Ihall juft mention fome of the principal events that happened both to this church and city, during the fucceflive bifhops. Godwin quotes a MS. which fays, that, during the perfecution by Dioclefian, this church was deftroyed, and the priefts belonging to it forced to fly, or .renounce their religion ; that about twenty years after, A. D. 309, it was rebuilt, but in 519, Cerdic, the firft Weft Saxon, being a pagan, converted it to a temple of Dagon, and flew, or drove away, all the priefts and monks that ofliciated in the church and mo- naftery. T,hus far the MS. Tjae firft bifhop of this fee was Wina, a Frenchman, preferred to it by KineWjill, or Kenwalchius, (thefon A? P S H I R E. ibi of the above-frientioned Kinegulfe) who* fays Mr. Wil- lis, tranflated the fee of Dorchefter hither anno 663, and from this Winna fome have vainly imagined, that the city took its name. He lies buried in the North part of the prefbytery. He is the firft fimonift of a bifhop that is mentioned in our hiftory; for, before his death, he fell under king Kinewall's dif'pleafure, was driven out of his diocefe, and bought that of London of Wulphire^ king of Mercia. The diocefe of Sherburn was taken out of this of Winchefter, by king Ina; Egbert, having fubdued the petty kings of this ifland, was crowned fole monarch of England, in a council held at this city. One of its bifhops, foon after thisj was Swithin, who was tutor to prince Ethelwolf, king Egbert's youngeft fon ; and fuch was his repute at Rome^ that he was canonized. This is the faint, on whofe fef- tival if it chance to rain, the fuperftitious, creduloug vulgar prophefy, that 'twill rain 40 days after, more or lefs ; for want of knowing that .certain rainy conftel- lations appear in our hemifphere about the time of his feftival, and not confidering, that the feftivals of the weeping St. Margaret the Virgin, and Mary Magdalen, follow foon after. He was, by his own appointment, buried in the church-yard of the cathedral. In his time the Danes deftroyed this city, where the monkifh wri- ters tell us of a fingle combat that was fought between Guy earl of Warwick and Colbrand, a Danifh giant. His next fucceffor but one, viz. Denewulf, was buried in this church, who, at firft, was only a keeper of fwine in Somerfetfhire ; but, for his fheltering king Alfred from the Danes, that king, when he recovered his crown, having obferved his great na- tural parts, caufed him to ftudy, though he was in years ; and when he had got a competent ftock of learn- ing, gave him this bifhoprick. A monaftery was built a little way to the South of the cathedral, by Edward the Elder, according to the will of his father king Al- fred, which was richly endowed and privileged by king Edward, his fon and fucceflbr, and the fucceeding kings. Fuller fays, it was termed the New Minfter, to diftin- guifh it from the cathedral, called the Old Minfter; but they proved in the fequel to be very bad neighbours. King Edward the Confeflbr, fon to Emma, being fent for by the barons of England after the death of Hardi- canute, fon of Canute the Dane, came over, and was crowned in this city by Edfius, the archbifhop of Can- terbury : At the fame time Alwyn, who was then bifhop of this fee, was confined to the monaftery here, and, queen Emma to the nunnery at Whorwell in this county* being both charged with holding an impure commerce, of which the queen purged herfelf, by that called the fiery ordeal ; whereupon the king afked her pardon, and the bifhop was releafed, and taken into favour. In to- ken of her deliverance, queen Emma gave nine manors to St. Swithin's church. The bifhop dying in 1 047. was buried in the north wall of the prefbytery. He was fucceeded by theConfefTor's chaplin Stigand, Anno 1052; but William the Conqueror, who kept his court here, deprived him, and made him a prifoner for life in the caftle, where he died, and was buried not only in the fame tomb, but, as it is faid, in the fame coffin with Wina. This bifhop's fucceflbr, Walkelin, about 1070, began to build the cathedral. In his time Waltheof the great Saxon, earl of Northumberland, was beheaded here, (in the place where St. Giles's chapel was built af-i terwards) for a confpiracy againft the conqueror ; by whofe order, alfo Ederic, another earl, who had delive- red up York caftle to Edgar Atheling, was committed prifoner for life to the caftle of Winchefter, and had his eyes bored out of his head. Giffard, his fucceflbr, fee- ing the continual quarrels betwixt the monks of the new minfter and thofe of the old, removed the former to Hyde, in this neighbourhood, where he founded a ftately abbey for them. He was buried in this churchy in 1 1 28. He was fucceeded by Henry de Blois, who fummoned a council of the clergy hither, on the death of king Henry I. and, being the Pope's legate, alfo ci- ted king Stephen to another council here, and he appear- ed accordingly, but would not somply with the clergy's D d terms j HAMPSHIRE. 102 terms ; whereupon this" bifhop, with the archbifhop of Canterbury, and other prelates, prayed him, on their knees, to have pity on the church ; which the king pro- mifed, but was not fo good as his word. In his war with the emprefs Maud, {he poflefled herfelf of this city and caftle, where (he was fo ftraitly befieged, that, to facilitate her efcape, a report was fpread of her death, and fhe was carried out in a coffin. At this time the bifhop's followers are faid to have fpoiled and burnt Win- chefter, together with the monaftery, nunnery, and rnore than twenty, fome fay, forty churches. The bi- Ihop alfo, when he returned to Winchefter, took off from the crofs that was burnt in the monaftery, five hundred weight of filver, thirty marks of gold, three crowns, with fo many thrones of gold fet with diamonds, which he put into his own treafury ; and took enough out of it to found and endow the fair hofpital of St. Crofs, (about a mile to the fouth of this city) which is faid, by miflake, in the Magna Britannia, to be founded by the cardinal de Beaufort, above two hundred years after. Bifhop Godwin fays, that fomething had been erected on the fame fpot, long before, to fome good ufe (by Wil- liam Rufus, as fome fay) ; but the Danes deftroyed it, and it lay in ruins till this bifhop rebuilt it, with two quadrangles, anno 1132, and endowed it with the reve- nues it now has. tie built alfo the bifhop's palace, called Wolvefcy, at the eaft end of the church, which was adorned and fortified with feveral turrets, and almoft iurrounded with the river. About this time, king Henry II. held a parliament here, where he was crowned, with his queen. His fucceffor, Richard Toclive, who oied here in 1189, was buried in the north wall of the Prefbytery, under the tomb of Wina. His fucceffor, Godfrey Lucy, fon to Richard, lord chief juftice of England, who was alfo governor of the caftle, built the tower of the cathedral, and inftituted a confraternity to collect alms for five years, and no longer, towards the repair of the church. In this bifhop's time, king Richard I. granted a very ample charter to the citizens, that they fhould not plead without their walls, but in trials about tenures ; that they fhould have no trials by duel; that they fhould be free from toll, laftage, pon- tage through all his territories by fea and land, &c. King John, to whofe intereft this place flood firm in all his. wars with the barons, refided here; and his fon, Henry III. was born here. Peter la Roche, who was bifhop here at that time, and afterwards lord chief juftice and protector of the kingdom during Henry's minority, died in 1238, and was, by his own appointment, buried very meanly, and even obfeurely, in this cathedral. 'Tis remarkable, that in his time refided here Henry the Lion, duke of Bavaria, and his dutchefs Matilda, daugh- ter of Henry II. and in 1209, their younger fon, W il- liam duke of Saxony, was born here, from whom de- icended the illuftrious houfe of Hanover, now reigning in Great Britain. King Henry III. who kept his Chrift- mas here in 1239, made fad havock of the temporalities of this bilhoprick, becaufe the monks chofe Raleigh their bifhop, inftead of his wife's uncle. When the ba rons rofe, this caftle was feized by Simon de Montfort, the earl of Leicefter's fon, the city taken, and all the Jews in it put to the fword ; but the earl of Leicefter be- ing foon after killed, king Henry came hither, and held a parliament. Ethelmarus, Raleigh's fucceffor, was a 'Frenchman, who died in 1261, and his heart was in terred in the fouth wall of the Prefbytery; as was alfo that of his fucceffor, Nicholas de Ely. The tomb of John de Pontiffara, the next bifhop but two, is in the north wall of the Prefbytery. Soon after the murder of king Edward I. his uncle, Edmund Plantagenet, was beheaded at the Caftle- gate here. William Edendon bifhop of this fee, was fo great a favourite of Edward III that, being cie-Sted to Canterbury, he refufed it, faying, * If Canterbury is the higher rack, Winchefter is the * better manger.' When treafurer of England, he caufed groats and half-groats to be coined, which wanted "fomething of the juft fterling "Weight; whereupon the price of things rofe confiderably. Upon this occafion, we meet with a remark in bifhop Godwin, which, perhaps, ' will explain the doubts that arife in hiftory, from the cheapnefs of provifions faid to be in ancient times. The bifhop writes thus : ' Whereas, many other times, the. ' like practice has been ufed, infomuch that five (hillings* ' has now fcarce fo much filver in it as five groats had ' three hundred years ago ; no marvel if things are fold ' for treble the price that they were three hundred years ' fince/ By which it appears, that when we read in old hiftory of a fheep being fold for a groat, we muft under- ftand it as good as twenty- pence at that time ; and fo for other things. This bifhop was buried in a very fair rda- bafter tomb, on the fouth fide of the entrance into the choir. His fucceffor, William, of Wickham, a village near this pJace, where he was born, fued bifhop Edendon's executors for dilapidations, and, befides money, re- covered of them" one thoufand five hundred and fifty-fix head of black cattle, three thoufand eight hundred and feventy-fix wethers, four thoufand feven hundred and feventeen ewes, three thoufand five hundred and twenty- one lambs, and one hundred and twenty-feven fwine ; all which ftock belonged, it feems, at that time, to the bifhoprick of Winchefter. He procured a charter for this city from king Edward III. to whom he was prime minifter, by which it was made a wool-ftaple, a trade carried on here at this time with great fuccefs, by Mr. Selwood and company. In 1387, he laid the firft ftone of the college here, called St. Mary's, near the bifhop's palace, and finifhed it in 1393, which was the year that king Richard II. held a parliament here. The warden and fellows entered into poffeffion of it on the. twenty- eighth of March, at three o'clock in the morning. The eftablifhment of it appointed a cuftos or warden, feventy fcholars, ftudents in grammar ; ten perpetual chaplains, now called Fellows ; three other chaplains, three clerks, a fchool-mafter, ufher, an organift, and fixteen chg- rifters ; who, with their tenants, were freed for ever from all toll, geld, fcutage, &c. from all taxes and en- actions whatfoever ; and from granting any pennons, corradies and maintenance, to any one, at the command of the king, or his heirs. The allowance to the warden, mafters and fellows, is very confiderable ; and they have handfome apartments joining to the college. The fcho- lars wear black gowns, but, when they go to chapel, white furplices. King Edward IV. alio confirmed ;to this college the alien priory of Andover, in this county, with all the lands, rents, &c. thereunto belonging. The faid college confifts of two large courts, in which are lodgings for the mafters and fcholars, and in the ceAtre is a very noble chapel. Bevond that, in the fecond court, are the fchools, with a large cloifter beyond them, and fome inclofures laid open for the fcholars diverfion. There is a large hall likewife for them to dine in. There are images finely painted on the glafs of the college cha- pel-window ; and in the middle of the cloifters is a li- brary, a ftrong ftone building, well contrived againft fire. Over the door of the fchool is an excellent ftatue of the founder, made by Mr. Cibber, -(father of -Mr. Colley Cibber, that excellent comedian, the poet laureat) who cut thofe inimitable figures of Melancholy and Dif- fraction over Bedlam-gate. Many learned and great men have been educated in this fchool, where the fcholars have exhibitions after a certain time of continuance, if they have a mind to ftudy in the New College at Oxford, built by the fame noble benefactor. This bifhop built all the body of his church, from the choir weftward, (where his ftatue is placed in a nich, over the great win- now) excepting only a fmall part of it, begun by bifhop Edendon. He likewife procured many privileges and immunities to be appendices for ever to this fee, as par- ticularly, that its bifhops fhould be prelates of the molt noble order of the garter, and chancellors to the arch- bifhops of Canterbury. Befides divers other bounties, he beftowed twenty thoufand marks in the repair of houfes, mended all the highways from hence to London, and erected a ftately tomb of white marble, richly gilt, thirteen years before his death, in the body of his church, where he lies interred, with the enfigns of the order of the garter, (of which he was the firft prelate) joined with his epifcopal robes, painted in- their proper colours. 'Tis recorded of this William, of 'Wickham, That having HAMPSHIRE having been born a poor boy, the kino; told him, he applied to him for this b : thoprick, ' That he wa when : applied to him for this bifhoprick, ' That he was nei- ' ther a clergyman nor a fcholar ;' and that he anfwered, * He would, foon be 'the -one ; and as for the other, he « would, with the revenue of this bifhoprick, make more « fcholars than all the bifhops of England ever did.' And he w'as as good as his Word; for as he built his colleo-e here' to fit youth for the univerfity, after the manner of Eton and Weftminfter fchools, fo he built New College at Oxford to finifh them. He alfo built feveral free-fchools and hofpitals, both in Hampfhire and Surry, which travellers may every where diftinguifh by this motto on his arms affixed to the ftructures, viz. Manners make the man. He likewife built the caftle of Windfor for king Edward, and appears to have been an able architect. King Henry IV. was married in this city to the widow of the duke of Bretagne. It appears by the parliament rolls in his reign, that Winchefter was held of the king in fee-farm, paying one hundred and twenty marks a year, and that ibme of it was held in capite. In this city king Henry V. gave audience to the French ambalfadors, who came to beg a peace of him ; but they did it in fuch infolent terms, that he foon after invaded and conquered France. The bifhop of this fee at that time was that king's uncle, Henry de Beaufort, fon of John of Gaunt, duke of La'n«after, whom pope Martin V. made a cardial, and general of the forces #hich he had raifed at his own expence to act againft the Bohemians. He built and endowed an hofpital in this city, near to St. Crofs's, wherein were to be maintained a mafter, two chaplains, thirty-five poor men, and three women. He died anno 1447, and lies buried in a line tomb behind the altar of his church, towards the fouth, on which he is reprefented in his cardinal's robes and hat, and bearing the fame arms as the prefent duke of Beau- fort. He was thrice lord chancellor, and fo wealthy, that he was commonly called, The Rich Cardinal. He left legacies to almoft all the cathedrals in England, but mod to that of Wells. 'Tis obfervable, that this bifhop, his predecefibr, and his fucceffor William Waynfleet, (as be was called from the place of his birth in Lincoln- shire, though his true name was Pattyn) fat in this fee almoft one hundred and twenty years ; a thing very rare, for three bifhops to hold, one bifhoprick fo long ! In i486, Arthur, eldeft fon to Henry VII. was born in this city; the fame prince, whofe name, after his death, came very often on the ftage, on account of his widow, the princefs Catharine of Spain, being married to and di- vorced from king Henry VIII. Bifhop Waynfleet, who died this year, lies buried in the north part, beyond the high altar, over-againft the' cardinal, in a very fair tomb, richly gilt, on which he is reprefented lying at length, with a heart in his hand. 'Tis kept in repair by Mag- dalen-college, Oxford, of which he was founder. His fucceffor, Peter Courtenay, who died in 1492, was alfo buried in this church, and fucceeded by Thomas Lang- ton, who built a neat chapel on the fouth fide of Our Lady's, in this cathedral, in the midft whereof lies his body in a (lately tomb of marble. His fucceffor, Ri- chard Fox, covered the choir here, together with the Prefbytery, and the ifles adjoining to it, and built the partition between them, caufing the bones of fuch prin- ces, prelates, and great men, as had been difperfed about the church in the civil wars, to be put into large wooden chefts lined with lead, and again interred at the foot of the great wall of the choir, with inscriptions de- noting them to be the bones of king Ulfe, Kinulphus, Egbert, Edmund, Canute, and queen Emma, William Rufus, and his brother PJchard. This bifhop lies buried on the fouth fide of the high altar, in a fair monument of the fame building with the partition. In 1554, queen Mary was married in this city to Philip of Spain, and the chair ufed in that ceremony is ftill kept. That cruel, revengeful prelate, Stephen Gardiner, bifhop of this fee in her reign, died in 1555, at,White- hall, from whence his corpfe was brought hither in great pomp, and buried on the north fide of the high akar, in a tomb, which felt the rigour of the enemies of his hated memory in the laft civil war. In this church alfo, its bifhop Horn, and his fucceffor Watfon, were buried ; the former under a marble monument near the pulpit; as was bifhop Cooper, (author of a great dictionary, Thefaurus, which bears his name) on the fouth fide of the choir, a little above the bifhop's feat, under a flat marble ftone, with an infeription both in profe and verfe. Walter Curl was bifhop of this city, when if was be- fieged by the parliament army under Sir William Waller, who took it in December 1643. In his time lived here Mr. Truffel, who, after having been bred at Winchefter fchool, became a trader, and alderman, and fuch an au- thor too, that he continued Daniel's hiftory of England, wrote a hiftory of all its bifhops and bifhopricks to his time, and a particular defcription of this city, and oc- currences therein, befides the origin of cities in general. The bifhop's palace here having been pulled down in the civil wars, bifhop Morley, who had been in exile with king Charles II. laid out two thoufand three hundred pounds in buildina a new one ; and, when he died, left five hundred pounds more to finifh it. In 1672, he erected a college in the cathedral church-yard for ten minifters widows, and endowed it with a good yearly revenue. In his time king Charles II. fet Sir Chriftopher Wren to begin the royal palace in the high part of this city, where the old caftle flood. The front, next to the city, was carried up to the roof, and the whole cafe was roofed ; but dying before it was finifhed, nothing re- mains of it except the model. It fronts the city by a noble area between the two wings, which were to have each fixteen fpacious rooms, and a chapel. There were particularly intended three cupolas, of which one was to be very large, and thirty feet above the roof, which would have been feen a great way in the channel ; and alfo a fair ftreet of houfes, leading in a direct line to the cathedral ; but 'twas never begun, though the ground for the fame, and the park, which was to be near eight miles in compafi, were actually procured, and marked out. The fouth fide is two hundred and fixteen feet, and the front, to the weft, three hundred and twenty-fix. What is done of it is faid to have coft twenty-five thou- fand pounds. In a word, never was a fituation better defigned by nature for a royal palace. King Charles II. and king James II. made feveral progreflcs to this city, efpecially while the palace was building ; and queen Anne alfo vilited it foon after her marriage with prince George of Denmark, on whom it was fettled as an ap- penage for his life, in cafe he had outlived the queen. His late majefty made a prefent to the duke of Bolton of the fine pillars of Italian marble, which were to have fupported the ftair-cafe, going up to the grand guard- room. Bifhop Morley dying at Farnham in 1684, n ' 3 corpfe was brought hither, and interred in a little vault in the cathedral, between two pillars, oppofite to thofe between which bifhop Edendon lies buried at the foot of the afcent to the choir on the north fide. Soon after, an altar tomb was erected over his body, and an inferip- tion put upon it, which he made for himfelf. The late bifhop, Sir Jonathan Trelawney, having called for the money left by bifhop Morley, wainfeotted and fitted up the greateft part of the infide of the palace in a very handfome manner. It Hands partly over-againft the warden's garden, with a road between them ; and its gardensjoin the dean's, near the cathedral. The cathedral, as has been partly obferved, was an- ciently called the Ealden Minfter, or Old Monaftery, to diftinguifh it from the more modern one, Newan Minfter, the new monaftery founded by king Alfred, who, to build the offices belonging to it, bought a certain piece of ground of the bifhop, for every foot of which he paid a mark, according to the public ftandard. This new college, as well as the old one, was founded for married piiefts, who were afterwards expelled by Dunftan, arch- bifhop of Canterbury. The walls of thefe two mo- nafteries were fo near, that any noife in the one was a difturbance to the other ; and quarrels thereupon en- fuing, the feparation followed, which has been already mentioned ; whereupon the monks of the new minfter, by licence of Henry I. built a large and beautiful mo- naftery at Hyde, which, fays Camden, was, by the treachery of the bifhop Henry de Blois, burnt down, within io4 H A M P S H 1 X E, within a few years, by a fire, wherein that famous crofs above-mentioned was confumed, the gift of Canute the Dane, which coft him the yearly revenue of all Eng- land ; but 'twas railed again to a noble fabric, and flou- rifhed till the diffolution, when it was demolifhed ; and the other, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, which is now the cathedral, upon the monks being ejected, had a new foundation of a dean and twelve prebendaries. 'Tis a large pile, and has a venerable look, but is not very ele- gant. Inftead of afteeple or fpiie, it has only a fhort tower covered flat, as if the top of it had fallen away, and it had been covered in hafte to keep out the rain. The moft remarkable things in it are, i. The font erected in the time of the Saxons : 'tis of large fquare black marble, fupported by a plain ftone pedefhl ; and the fides are fet off with baflb-relievos, reprefenting the miracles of fome faint belonging to this church. 2. The afcent to the choir, by eight ftately fteps, at the top of which are two copper ftatues finely caft, viz. that of king James I, on the right, and king Charles I. on the left. 3. The bifhop's throne, of which the pedi- ment is adorned with a mitre, and the arms of the fee fupported with fluted columns of the Corinthian order. 'Twas given by bifhop Trelawney, who, when he fitted up his palace, had a view of refiding here every fummer. 4.. The flails of the dean and prebendaries, adorned with fpire-work gilded, before which ftands an eagle with expanded wings, on a brafs pedeftal. 5. The afcent to the altar, which is of marble fteps. The pavement is very curious, being inlaid with marble of divers colours, in various figures. 6. The altar-piece, which is by much the nobleft in England, if not in all proteftant countries, and the gift of bifhop Morley. "Tis a lofty canopy of wood-work, projecting over the communion-table, like a curtain, with gilt feftoons hanging down from it, and beautified all over. The communion-rail is neat, and on each fide of the altar run up vafes of ftone, with golden flames ifluing out to the roof of the church, with excellent foliage. 7. The great eaft window, very remarkable for the antiquities finely painted on its glafs, which contains the por- traitures of feveral faints and bifhops of this church, and is ftill intire ; as is alfo the weft window, but not of fo fine workmanftiip. The dimenfions of the cathedral are thus fet down by Mr. Willis, in his Mitred Abbies. Length of the whole, from eaft to weft, five hundred and forty-five feet, including the Lady-chapel at the eaft end, which is fifty-four feet, whereof the choir comprehends one hundred and thirty-fix feet in length, and forty in breadth. The body and fide-ifles are eighty-feven feet broad; length of the great crofs-ifle about one hundred and eighty-fix feet, and of the tower in the middle, in which hang eight large bells, about one hundred and fifty feet. The nave, or weftern body of the church, extends above three hundred, and is reckoned the moft fpacious in England ; and indeed, the whole fabric would yield to few or none, were the great crofs-ifles vaulted over, in like manner with the reft of the ftrudture ; and were the great tower in the middle, (which would well bear a fuperftructure) raifed a little higher, with fome ornament at the top, to render it more auguft. The choir is faid to be the longeft of any in England. The roof of it, with the coats of arms of the Saxon and Norman kings, was the gift of bifhop Fox. Juft under the altar lies a fon of William the Conqueror, without any monument ; but there is a very fine one, under which lies the famous earl of Portland, who was lord high treafurer of England in the reign of Charles I. His effigies is in copper armour, at full length, with his head raifed on three cufhions of the fame. On the fouth fide of the nave is a marble ftatue of Sir John Cloberry, who, from being a private muflceteer, raifed himfelf firft to knighthood, a: d had a good eftate given him by Charles I IT for his fidelity in the fecret of the reftoration, when he was employed as a mcfienger between general Monk and thofe intrufted by that king. The clergy here live very elegantly in the clofe belonging to the cathedral, in pleafant hand- fome dwellings, particularly the deanry, which has large gardens, and the river running through them ; but tl tc7 nrr »herffbfe &tn- inttrr-noded by floods TherS v - j ::iffij - 1 :n:s citr- thirty-two pariih- churches, ofwhicVvih: only nov/ Mrrh&ifo An infirmary- was fom^ years' fincv wtfblifhcd'h«ire by voluntary fubfeription, procured t&iieftj "uy the Rev. Dr. Alured Clarke. The buildings, in general, are mem ; hut Hit irrcf 5 :* are broad, and the lttuation fceklfhy and pleafant, it being in a valley between two very ;lerp ialis, which defend it from cold and bofcfterotls Wftll*. The river Itching, which runs by the walls at it, was made j.avi- gable in the reign of William the Conqurror, a* we have already obferved. The city is almoft intiiely fur- rounded by a wall of flints, and is about a mile and a half in circumference. In the wall are fix gates, with fuburbs leading to every one of them. There is a great deal of void ground within the walls, which is turned into gardens, fupplied with water from fmall canals on each fide of the high-ftreet. Joining to the eaft gate is a very elegant houfe, built in the form of the queen's palace in St. James's Park, with iron gates before, and a fpa- cious garden behind it. Near it is St. John's hofpital, in the hall of which the mayor and bailiffs give their public entertainments. At one end is the picture of king Charles II. by Sir Peter Lely ; and at the other, a large table, containing all the mayors and bailiffs of this city from the yfear 1184. There are alfo tables of* the benefactors to the city during the reign of the Saxons, and from the reign of Henry II. to that of Charles II. This city is governed, according to a charter of queen Elizabeth, by a mayor, a high-fteward, a re- corder, an unlimited number of aldermen, (out of whom are chofen fix juftices) two coroners, two bai- liffs, twenty-four common-councilmen, four conftables, and four ferjeants at mace. The corporation have a guild-hall, rebuilt fome years ago, in the high-ftreet, having the ftatue of queen Anne placed in the front of it. In this hall two courts of record are held every Friday and Saturday. Here are three charity-fchools, one for fifty boys, and another for thirty girls, who are all clothed, and, when of a proper age, are put out apprentices. Thefe fchools are maintained by a fubfeription, amounting to two hundred and twenty pounds a year. The third fchool, which is fupported by the bounty of one per- fon only, is for teaching two hundred and fifty boys, who are neither cloathed nor put out apprentices. In the cathedral church -yard is a college, erected by bifhop Morley in the year 1672, for ten widows of clergy- men. In this city the Romans had looms to weave cloth for the emperors, and their army ; and king Athelftan granted it the privilege of fix mints for the coinage of money. Near the weft-gate of the cathedral there is ftill fome part of an old wall, very thick, with feveral windows in it, built of fmall flints cemented by mor- tar as hard as ftone, and fuppofed to have been a work of the Romans. The great Roman highway leads from this city to Alton, and, it is fuppofed, was con- tinued to London ; but the remains of it cannot now be traced bevond Alton. A monaftery is faid to have been founded here very early by Lucius, a Britifh king, for monks following the rule of St. Mark, which, after feveral changes, was at laft totally demolifhed by one of the Welt Saxon kings. In the eaft part of the city a nunnery was begun by king Alfred, or his queen Alfwitha, about the end of the ninth century, and finifhed by their fon king Ed- ward the elder. This houfe was ulfo new-modelled and enlarged by bifhop Ethelwold. The nuns were of the Benedidtine order, and the houfe was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and St. Edburg, daughter to king Edward, who was herfelf a nun, and, fome fay, abbefs here. The yearly revenue of this abbey, in the twenty- fixth year of Henry VIII. was one hundred and feventy- nine pounds, feven (hillings and two-pence; and three years after, when it was diffblvdd, the king granted penfions to the abbefs and twenty-one nuns. H A M P The magnificent hofpital of St. Crofs, founded, as, above-mentioned, by bifhop Blois, deferves particular notice. The church is built in the form of a crofs, and has a large fquare tower. By the inftitution of the founder, every traveller that knocks at the door of this houfe in his way, may claim the relief of a manchet of bread and a cup of beer, of which a great quantity is daily fet apart to be given away ; and what is left is diftributed to other poor, none of it being kept till the next day. The revenues of this hofpital were to be ap- propriated to the maintenance of a mafter, and thirty penfioners, called fellows or brothers, and for thefe, handfome apartments were allotted ; but the number is now reduced to fourteen, though the mafter has an ap- pointment of eight hundred pounds a year. The pen- fioners wear black gowns, go twice a day to prayers, and have two hot meals a day, except in Lent, when they have bread, butter, cheefe, beer, and twelve (hil- lings in money to buy what other provifions they chufe. Thefe penfioners ufed formerly to be decayed gentlemen, but of late, they are often broken tradcfmen, put in at the pleafure of the mafter. In the north part of the town flood a houfe or college of Dominican or preaching friars, who were firft placed here by Peter de Rupibus, or de la Roch, bifhop of Winchefter in the reign of king John ; and it was granted by Henry VIII. to the warden and fellows of Winchefter-college. Healfo granted to the fame college a houfe of Grey-friars, fituated on the north fide of the ftreet, juft within the north gate of the city. Before the time of Edward I. here was an hofpital for nine poor brethren and fifters, and under the pa- tronage of the bifhop of Winchefter. It was dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and valued, upon the difiblution, at forty-two pounds fixteen {hillings per annum. Without the fouth gate ftood a houfe of Auguftine friars, built in the time of king Edward 1. and rebuilt about the fifteenth year of Edward III. There was alfo in this city a houfe of Carmelite or White-friars, faid to have been founded by Peter, rector of St. Hellen's, Winchefter, in the year 1278. In the meadow of St. Stephen, oppofite the gate of the bifhop's palace, called Wolvefey, John de Pontoys, bifhop of Winchefter, about the year 1300, built a college for a provoft, fix chaplains in prieft-orders, fix clerks, and fix chorifters, dedicated to St. Elizabeth, daughter to one of the kings of Hungary. It was en- dowed, at the difiblution, with one hundred and twelve pounds, feventeen fhillings and four-pence per annum. Towards the north is Hyde-houfe, the remains of the old monaftery already mentioned, where feveral Roman Catholics refide, and have a chapel ; behaving themfelves fo well, that they are not difturbed. The plains and downs about this city, which conti- nue, with very few intermiffions of rivers and vallies, for above fifty miles, render the country very pleafant to thofe who love an open fituation and extenfive profpect. Both the city and neighbourhood abound with perfons of fortune, though there is neither trade nor manufac- ture that deferves notice. Winchefter fends two citizens to parliament, has weekly markets on Wednefdays and Saturdays, and two annual fairs, viz. the firft Monday in Lent, for bacon, cheefe, leather, and horfes ; and the twenty-fourth of October, for leather, horfes, bullocks, and fheep. Be- fides thefe fairs, one is held on Magdalen-hill, near the city, on the fecond of Auguft ; and another on St. Giles- hill, in the neighbourhood, on the twelfth of September ; both for the fale of cheefe, leather, and horfes. Stockbridge, which we next vifited, is a noted tho- roughfare-town on the weftern road, fituated on the river Tefe, fixty-nine miles from London. It is a borough by prefcription, and governed by a bailiff", conftables, and ferjeants. The bailiff", who is generally an inn- keeper, or an inn-keeper's fervant, is the returning offi- cer at the election of members to ferve in parliament ; for the inn-keeper, that he may have the greater oppor- tunity of receiving bribes on thefe occafions, without incurring the penalty, has frequently procured one of his own hoftlers to be elected bailiff', and has himfelf IX SHIRE. 105 carried the mace before him. The famous Sir Richard Steel, who represented this borough in queen Anne's reign, carried his election againft a powerful opponent, by the following ftratagem. Having invited all the electors, and their wives, to an entertainment, he took a large apple, and ftuck it full of guineas, declaring, it fhould be the prize of that man whofe wife fhould firft be brought to bed after that day nine months. This fa- cetious offer procured him the intereftof all the ladies, who are faid to commemorate Sir Richard's bounty to this day, and once made a vigorous effort to procure a ftanding order of the corporation, that no man fhould ever be received as a candidate, who did not offer him- felf upon the fame terms. The town, though fmall, has feveral good inns, but no weekly market. It has, however, three annual fairs, viz. Holy Thurfday, the tenth of July, and the feventh of October, for fheep and horfes. Stockbridge is fuppofed to have been the Brige, or Brage, of the ancients, which Antoninus places nine miles from Sorbiodunum, or Old Sarum, a borough- town of Wiltfhire. At Motesfont, a village a little to the fouth of Stock- bridge, a priory of Auftin canons was founded by Wil- liam Briwere, in the beginning of king John's reign, and dedicated to the Holy Trinity. This houfe con- tinued till the general fuppreffion, when a prior and ten canons refided in it, and the revenues amounted to one hundred and twenty-four pounds, three fhillings and five-pence per annum. At Quarley-hill, north-weft of Stockbridge, on the borders of Wiltfhire, are the remains of a very large Roman camp. The works on one fide are quadruple, and the two outward trenches farther diftant from each other than ufual. This is anfwered by another laro-e camp at a place called Dunbury-hill, fituated about three miles to the eaftward of the former. Andover is a large, handfome, well-built and popu- lous town on the weftern road leading from London to Wiltfhire, near the river Ande, fix miles from Stock- bridge, and fixty-fix from London. It was firft incor- porated by king John, but is now governed, according to a charter of queen Elizabeth, by a bailiff", a fteward, a recorder, two juftjees, and twenty-two capital bur- geffes, who annually chufe a bailiff, and the bailiff ap- points two ferjeants at m*ce to attend him. It fs a flou- rifhing place, and pleafantly fituated on the fides of the downs, which renders it at once both healthy and de- lightful. Here is a free-fchool founded in the year 1569, a charity- fchool for thirty boys, and an hofpital for fix men, built and endowed by John Pollen, Efq; fometime one of the reprefentatives of this borough in parliament. Great quantities of malt are made here, but its principal manufacture is fhalloons. The church of St. Mary, in this town, was given to the French abbey of St. Florence at Sulmur in Anjou, by king Wil- liam the Conqueror, and became a cell to that mona- ftery. In the fecond year of Henry V. it was finally diffolved by ftatute, and the fame year granted to Win- chefter college. Andover fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, viz. Saturday before Mid-lent Sunday, for cheefe, horfes, and leather; the twelfth of May, for leather and milli- nery goods ; and the fixteenth of November, for fheep, horfes, leather, and cheefe. About two miles to the weft of this town is Weyhill, which forms the eaftern extremity of the open down called Salifbury Plain. The whole village confifts only of a few fcattered houfes, and a fmall church ; but is remarkable for one of the largeft fairs in England fee hops, cheefe, leather, and fheep. It begins on the tenth of October, and continues a week. About a mile from Andover is a Roman camp, called Berehill : at the diftance of half a mile, another of great extent, furrounded with double woi ks ; and fome miles to the north, at a village called Egbury, a third. At Wherwill, a village in the neighbourhood of this, town, and fituated on the river Tefe, Elfiida, the wi- dow of king Edgar, about the year 9S6, founded a Be- E e nedictinc n a m ? S H I fit L. ncdictine nunnery, to atone for her having murdered her firft hufband, Ethclwold, that (he might be queen; and her fon-in-law, king Edward, that her own Ton, Ltheldred, might be king. It was dedicated to the Holy Crofs and St. Peter; and in this abbey flic is faid to have fpent the htter part of her life very penitently. At the the general fuppreflion, it was endowed with revenues Amounting to three hundred and thirty-nine pounds, eight Shillings and feven-pence^r annum. 1 here is ftill an annual fair held at Wherwell on the fourteenth of September, for fheep and bullocks. About fix miles to the north-eail of Andover, is the town of Whitchurch, fituated on the weftern road, on the banks of the Tefe, fifty-eight miles from London. It is an ancient horough by piefcription, and governed by a mayor, chofen annually at the court-leet of the dea n and chapter of Winchefier, to whom the manor belongs. The members to reprefent this borough in parliament, are chofen by the freeholders, and returned by the mayor. The principal trade of this town confifts jji fhalloons, ferges, and other articles of the woollen manufacture. Whitchurch fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Friday, and four annual fairs, viz. the twenty-third of April, the twentieth of June, and the feventh of July, for toys ; and the nineteenth of Oc- tober for fheep. Kingfclere, which was the next place we vifited, is pleafantly fituated on the downs bordering on Berkfhire, fifty-two miles from London. It was once the feat of the Saxon kings of this county, but has now nothing remarkable, except its being ftill the capital of a hun- dred. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and three annual fairs, viz. the firft Tuefday in April, the firft Tuefday after Old Michaelmas-day, and the tenth of October, for fheep. From Kingfclere we continued our journey to Sil- chefter, a hamlet, confifting of only one farm-houfe and a church, fituated feven miles to the north-eaft of Kingf- clere, upon the borders of Berkfhire. Here are to be feen the remains of the celebrated Vindomia, or Vin- donum, of the Romans, and the Caer Segont of the Britons, once the chief city of the Segontiaci ; and faid to be byuilt by Conftantius, the fon of Conftantine the great, who is reported to have fown corn in the trace for the walls, as an omen of their perpetuity. Thefe walls, which are two Italian miles in circumference, and built of flint and rag-ftone, are ftill {landing. They were furrounded by a ditch, which is ftill impafiible, and full of fprings. At the diftance of five hundred feet without thefc walls, to the north-eaft, are the re- mains of an amphitheatre, which has long been a yard for cattle, and a watering-pond for horfes. In this place feveral Roman roads, which are ftill vifible, con- cur ; and in the neighbouring fields a vaft number of Roman coins, bricks, and other relics, are daily found ; among the reft was a ftone, with the following inferip- tion : MEMORISE FL. VICTORINvE T. TAM. VICTOR CONIVX POSVIT ; and fome coins of Conftantine, on the reverfe of which there is the figure of a building, and this infeription : PROVIDEN- TIAE CAESS. Some Britifh coins are alfo found here, which the common people call Onion Pennies, from one Onion, whom they will have to be a giant, and an Inhabitant of Vindomia. Leaving Silchefter, we travelled directly fouth to Bafingftoke, an ancient town fituated on the weftern road from London to Wiltfhire. forty-eight miles from London. It is a large and populous town, governed by a mayor, a recorder, feven aldermen, feven capital bur- geftes, and other officers. Befides the parifh-church, there was a very neat chapel, built in the reign of Hen- ry VIII. by William, the firft lord Sandys, who was buried in it. This chapel ftands on an eminence, but is now in a ruinous condition. The hiftory of the pro- phets, apoftles, and the other difciples of Chrift, was finely painted on the cieling. Here are three charity, and one free-fchool, in which forty-four boys and twenty- four girls are taught and cloathed. One of the above fchools belongs to the fkinners company in London, and in it twelve boys arc taught, cloathed, *nd main- tained. Great quantities of malt are made here, and fome years ago, a manufacture of druggets and fhalloons was fet up in this tow.*'., and has fince been carried on with fuctefs, and affords conftant employment for a great number of poor people, Henry III. founded an bofpital here in 1261, for the maintenance of aged and helplefs priefts, purfuant to the will of Walter de Merton; and after the foundation of Mcrton College in Oxford, the fcholars, or fellows of that college, who fhould become proper objects, were to be preferred. It was dedicated to St. Mary and St. John the Baptift, and the mafterihip of it very early annexed to the wardenfhip of Merton-college, Oxford. A bloody battle was fought near this place in the year 871, be- tween Etheldred and the Danes, in which the former was defeated. Here is a large weekly market for corn, efpecially barley, held on Wednefday ; and two annual fairs, the firft held on Wednelday in Whitfun-wcek, for pedlars ware ; and the fecond on the tenth of October, for hiring fervants, and the faleof cattle. Befides thefe fairs, there are two others held on the neighbouring hills, called Bafingftoke-downs, on Eafter Tuefday, and the fixteenth of September, for the fale of cheefe and cattle. In the neighbourhood of Bafingftoke is a houfe built out of the ruins, and on the fite of old Bafing-houfe, a feat belonging to the marquis of Winchefter, and famous in the great civil war. The marquis, who was a firm loyalift, changed this feat into a fortrefs for the king; and having under him a band of veteran foidiers, held it out for a long time, to the great annoyance of the par- liament army. At laft Cromwell, provoked to fee a houfe defy all their efforts, when the ftrongeft cities had fubmitted, took it by ftorm, put great part of the gar- rifon to the fword, and burnt the houfe to the ground. It was a building more proper for a prince than a fub- ject; and, among other rich furniture deftroyed with the ftructure, was one bed woith fourteen hundred pounds ; but notwithftanding this, the plunder was fo confidcr- able, that a private foldier had three hundred pounds to his own fhare. About five miles to the eaftward of Bafingftoke, is a town called Odiham, fituated on the road to Bafing- ftoke, forty-one miles from London. It is a corporate town, and was formerly a free borough belonging to the bifhop of Winchefter. It had once a royal palace and a caftle, which, in the reign of king John, wai defended for fifteen days by only thirteen men, againft the army of the barons; and in the reign of Edward III. David III. king of Scotland, was kept a prifoner here. A charity-fchool for thirty boys was founded here about forty years ago, by a tradefman of this town, who left the intereftof fix hundred pounds to fuppoitit. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. Mid-lent Saturday, and the thircy-firft of July, both for toys and cattle. At Wintncy-hartley, about four miles to the north- eaft of Odiham, a Ciftertian nunnery was founded by fome of the Colrifh family in the reign of William the Conqueror. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Mary Magdalen, and, at the difiblution, it was inha- bited by a priorefs and feventeen nuns, with a revenue of forty-three pounds three fhillings per annum. From Odiham we directed our courfe to Alton, and pafTed through a fmall place called Bentley-green, one of the moft lively and chearful villages we met with in our journey. The houfes are, in general, well-built, though fmall, fcattered at proper diftances, and have all little gardens, neat, and well planted. The fences on each fide of the road, for many miles together, are of white- thorn of the moft vigorous growth, many of them clipped, and all kept clean from weeds. Nor is this hufband-like attention confined to their fences on the road-fide; it extends into the fields as far as we could fee. Alton is a pretty, though fmall market-town, fituated on the road leading from London to Winchefter, fifty miles from the former. Here is a charity-fchool for forty boys and twenty girlr, but nothing elfe worth the attention II A M P S attention of a curious traveller. 7"he. weekly market is held on Saturday ; belides which, there i; an annual fair on the twenty-ninth of September, for cattle and toys. At Weft Stierborn, in the neighbourhood of Alton, there was a priory of Benedictine monks, dedicated to St. Mary and St. John, which became a cell to the ab- bey of St. Vigor at Cerafy in Normandy, to which it was given by Henry de Port, one of the barons of the exchequer in the reign of Henry I. It was afterwards given by Edward IV. to the hofpital of St. Julian in Southampton, and is now enjoyed by the provoft and fellows of Queen's College, "Oxford, as mailers of that hofpital . There was alfo a priory of black canons at Selbor, near Alton, founded by Peter de Repibus in the year 1233, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; but it was fupprdfed, and granted to William Wainfleet, bifliop of Winchefter, who made it part of the endowment of St. Mary Magdalen college in Oxford. Alesford, or Aylesford, the next place we vifited, is fituated on a river formerly called the Aire, now the Itching, fixty miles from London. It is an ancient town, governed by a bailiff and eight burgeffes. On the firft of May 1610, this town was confumed by an accidental fire, which broke out in feveral places almoft at the fame time, fparing neither the market-houfe nor church. It was foon after rebuilt in a much better man- ner than before, and the market-houfe, and many of the private houfes, are of brick, which before were of tim- ber and plafter. Since which time, it has fufFered two other accidents of the fame kind, but is now handfomely buik. Part of the Roman highwayj leading from this place to Alton, ferves for the head or ftank of a large pond, in which there are a great number of fwans. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and an annual fair on the twenty-fourth of June, for fheep, horfes, and cows. About eight miles to the eaftward of Alesford, is Pe- tersfieid, an ancient borough-town, fituated on the road leading from London to Portfmouth, fifty-five miles from London. It ftands in a pleafant, fruitful foil, abounding with oaks, and is accommodated with feveral good inns. It is governed, according to a charter of queen Elizabeth, by a mayor and commonality, who have fhamefuily given up all their privileges to the family of the Hamborrows, who are lords of the manor, at whofe court the mayor is annually chofen. The church, though pretty lanje, is onlv a chapel of eafe. Petersfield fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the tenth of July, and the eleventh of December, for fheep and horfes. From Petersfield we directed our courfe towards South- ampton, and paffed through Fareham, a fmall market- town fituated at the upper part of Portfmouth harbour, iixty-eight miles from London. It is pleafantly fituated, has a market on Wednefday, and an annual fair on the twenty-ninth of June, for toys. About two miles to the north-eaft of Fareham, is a fmall town called Southwick, remarkable for having been the refidence of colonel Norton, who dying in December J 732, left a real eftate of fix thoufand pounds a year, and fixty thoufand pounds in money, to the poor, hungry and thirfty, naked and ftrangers, fick, wounded, and prifoners, to the end of the world. He left his pictures, and other valuable effects, to the king, and appointed the. parliament of Great Britain his execu- tors ; but in cafe they fhould refufe the truft, it fhould devolve to the bifitops. Truftees were foon appointed, by proper authority, to take care of this extraordinary legacy ; but the will carried fuch ftrong marks of in- fanity, that it was afterwards fet afide. The houfe, which is very large, is part of a monaftery built by Henry I. The fituation is very low and wet, having a great deal of marfhv ground about it ; but the park ex- tends to the higheft part of Portfdown, where there are two large clumps of Scotch firs, planted by the colonel, which have flourifhed remarkably, and may be feen near twenty miles at land, and a confiderable diftance at fea. And from the ground near thefe trees, there is a very H I R E. 167 I beautiful view of Portfmouth, town, harbour, and docks^ the roads of Spithead and St. Helens, and the Me of Wight. On the land-fide the eye commands a very ex- tenlive vale, well planted and cultivated, bounded with hills cioathed with woods. About feven miles to the northward of Fareham is Waltham, or Bifhops Waltham, from a palace the bifhops of Winchefter had formerly here, fixty-five miles from London. It is a confiderable market-town^ and has a charity-fchool, but nothing elfe remarkable. The weekly market is held on Saturday. There are' alfo four annual fairs, viz. the fecond Friday in May, for horfes and toys ; the twenty-fourth of July, for cheefe and toys; the firft Friday after Old Michaelmas-day; and the tenth of October, for horfes, ftockings, and toys. About three miles to the northward of Waltham is a fmall town called Warnford, in the church of which are two remarkable inferiptions ; one upon the north fide^ indicating, that this church was rebuilt by Adam de Portu, a man of great wealth in the time of William the Conqueror. The infeription is as follows : Adda hie Portu, lenedicat foils ab ortu, Gens Deo dieata, per quern fie fum renovate. The other infeription, on the fouth fide, intimates, that this church, which was rubuilt by Adam de Portu^ was founded by Wilfred. Fratres orate, preee vejlra fantifieate Templl Faelores, fenlores cif junlores^ Wilfrid fundavit, bonus Adam fie renovavit. Southampton, the next place we vifited, is a large borough-town fituated between the Aire, or Itching, and the Tefe or Anton, both of which fall here into an arm of the fea ealled Southampton-water, feventy-eight miles from London. It was firft incorporated by Hen- ry II. and made a county of itfelf by Henry VI. which renders it independent of the lord lieutenant of thefhire. According to the laft charter, which was granted by king Charles 1. the corporation conftfts of a mayor$ ninejuftices, a fheriff, two bailiffs, twenty-four com- mon- councilmen, and as many burgeffes. The mayor is admiral of the liberties from South-fea caftle, fituated on the eaft fide of Portfmouth harbour, to Hurft-caftle.; erected on a neck of land oppofite the needle- cliffs in the Me of Wight. This town was terribly harraffed by the Danes, who at length took it in the year 980 ; and here it was that Canute the great convinced his courtiers of the limited power of earthly monarchs. Thefe flatterers had often? addreffed him with the moft fulfome compliments, even at the expene'e of the Divinity. Canute, defpifing fuch mean flattery, refolved, as an unanfwerable argument to all they had been faying, to give them an ocular de- monftration, that there was no more divinity about the perfon of a king, than about that of the meaneft of his fubjects : accordingly, he ordered his chair of ftate to be placed on the ftrand below the high-water mark, while the tide was flowing; and fitting in it, drefTed in his royal robes, addreffed the fea in the following manner : " Over thee, O fea, I have command, and the ftrand " on which I fit is mine. Difobedience to me never " goes unpuniihed. Upon thy peril, therefore, advance " no farther, nor prefume to wet the feet of thy fo- " vereign lord." But the waves, deaf to the royal voice, rolled on in their ufual courfe, firft fprinkling, and then dafhing all over the royal perfon. Canute, as if fur- prized at the difobedience of the element, ftarted from his feat ; and after chiding his courtiers for flattering him into a belief of his power, that might have proved fatal to his perfon, reprefented to them the narrow limits of earthly majefty, compared to that which can bind the ocean, and fay to the billows. " Thus far fhall ye go, " and no farther." He then, by way of penance for his prefumption, Walked home, wet as he was ; and our hiftorians add, that from that hour he would never more wear his crown, commanding it to be placed on the head of the crucifix at Winchefter, lit HAMPSHIRE. In the reign of Edward the third, Southampton was taken by the French, who, after putting the men to the fword and ravifhing the women, laid the town in afhes ; but was foon after rebuilt in a more convenient fituation, and fortified withd ouble ditches, and ftrong walls, with bat- attlements and towers. The fecurity of the place foon rendered it populous, and Richard II. built a ftrong caftle on a high mount, for the defence of the harbour. When Henry V. made his firft expedition to France, he muftered his army here, and having difcovered that he was in danger of being betrayed by Richard earl of Cambridge, lord Scroop, and Sir Thomas Grey, he caufed them to be beheaded, and their remains interred in the chapel of God's Houfe, an hofpital founded by Phillippa wife to EdwardTII. for the maintenance of poor men and women. This town is at prefent furroimded by a wall built of very hard ftone, refembling thofe little white fhells, like honey-combs, growing on the backs of oyfters. Thefe ftones feem to have been gathered on the fand below the high water mark of the fea, which encompaffes al- moft half of the town, and fo deep, that fhips of five hundred tons burden, have been often built here. At the fouth corner near the quay, is a fort called the tower with fome cannon mounted on it ; on one of which was an infcription, indicating that the fort was erected by Henry VIII. in the year 1542. In order to break the force of the waves, which, in ftormy weather, and foutherly winds dafh with great violence againft the fhore,; they build a ftrong bank with a fpecies of marine plant, called, in this part of the country, fea-ore,- It is compofed of long, flender, and ftrong filaments, like fwingled hemp, very tough and durable. This bank is faid to be a better defence than a ftone wall, and, fome add, than even a natural cliff; but the latter affertion feems to be too much exaggerated to gain belief with the thinking part of mankind. The principal ftreet, is one of the broadeftin England, and near three quarters of a mile in length, well paved, and terminated at the fouthern extremity by a very com- modious quay. Here is a public hall in which the affizes are frequently kept. There are alfohere five churches where the fervice is performed in Englifh, and one, where it is read in French. The hofpital already mentioned,, called God's houfe, is ftill in being, and alfo a free-fchool founded by Ed- ward VI. A charity fchool was alfo opened in the year j 713, for thirty boys, who are cloathed and taught, read- ing, writing, arithmetic, and navigation. Southampton is faid to have formerly enjoyed the fole privilege of importing all the Canary wine brought to En- gland, and there are ftill many large vaults near the quay and in the High-ftreet,. where thefe wines were depofited ; but the merchants of London fuffering great inconveni- ences by this delay, purchafed an exemption, and had their wines brought directly to London. Cambden fays it was famous in his time, for the great refort of mer- chants, the number and neatnefs of its buildings, and the wealth of its inhabitants. But it has now loft the greater part of its trade,, though fome is ftill carried on with the iflands of Guernfey and Jerfey, and to New- foundland. Some years fince, the cuftom of bathing in the fea- water came into great requeft, and feveral baths were made here for that purpofe. This convenience has prov- ed of the greateft fervice to the town, great numbers of the nobility and gentry reforting hither in the fummer feafon for that purpofe. A very elegant ball and affem- bly room has been alfo lately erected here, and a moft e- legant pile of building was fome time fince begun, to accommodate the nobility, &c. with more commodious lodgings. The inhabitants of Southampton, have been, for a long feries of years fupplied with excellent water, from feveral fprings in the neighbourhood. The water is con- veyed by leaden pipes to four public conduits erected in the town, and alfo to a large pond for watering cattle, near the eaft gate. This water is of the greateft fervice to the town, as Well as to the fhips trading hither, as that fupplied by pumps in the place is brackifh, from the vicinity of the fea. The charge of repairing thefe con- duits, pipes, &c. had been from time immoriable defray- ed by the inhabitants; but fome years fince feveral of them refufed to pay thofe rates, and the voluntary contribu- tions of the more public-fpirited perfons being infuffi- cient for the purpofe, the conduits and other works, were in fo decayed a condition, that a fcarcity of frefh-water enfued, and a total want of it was likely to follow. This induced the inhabitants to apply to parliament for power to levy rates fufficient to anfwer all the good pur- pofes defired ; and accordingly anaapaffed in the feflion of 1746-7, which will, it is hoped be a means of con- tinuing, to future ages, the falutary benefit the town was in fo much danger of lofing, by the narrow fpirit and perverfenefs of perfons, who were willing to receive an advantage, without contributing tofupportthe method of procuring it, in common with their neighbours, Southampton fends two members to parliament, has weekly markets on Tuefday, Thurfday, and Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-fifth of April, and Trinity-monday, for horfes, cattle, and leather. At the hamlet of St. Mary's, a little to the north-eaftof Southampton, ftood an old Roman town, called Claufen- tum, which in the ancient Bri tifh language implies,the port of Entum. The ruins of this town may ftill be traced, as far as the haven on one fide, and beyond the river Itching on the other ; and the trenches of a caftle, half a mile in compafs, are ftill vifible in St. Mary's field. This caftle is fuppofed to have been one of the forts fre- quently erected by the Romans to keep out the Saxons. About a mile from the town, on the banks of the ri- ver itching is a vaft pile of earth, which rifes in the form of a cone, from a foundation of great circumference, called Bevis-mount. It is fuppofed to have been an an- cient fortification thrown up by the Saxons, under the command of Bevis, to oppofe the paflage of the Danes over the Itching, when they lay encamped on the other fide of that river. The mouth of the river Itching, is not very broad, but the tide running up it a great way above Southampton, forms a kind of bay, juft un- der this remarkable mount ; which being contiguous to an eftate belonging to the late earl of Peterborough, his lordfhip purchafed it, and converted it into a kind of wildernefs, cutting various fpiral walks and labyrinths through the woods and bufties with which it was covered, in fopleafing, but intricatea manner, that it is hardly po- fible for a ftranger to find his way. His lordfhip ufed frequently to divert himfelf by droping his friends in the midft of this wildernefs, and, ftealing away, leave them to wander up and down, till they found their way out of it. The mount, like what the poets fabled of Parnaffus, terminates above, in a kind of fork ; and be- tween the two fpires is a bowling green, or parterre, a- dorned with beautiful ftatues of Italian marble, brought by his lordfhip from Rome. The view towards the river is entirely open, and, when the tide is up, affords a very beautiful profpect. On one fide of this parterre, declin- ing gradually towards the fouth, from the top of one of the fpires to the bowling green, is a little vineyard ; and on the fummit of the other fpire, a beautiful fummer- houfe is erected. It is built in an elegant tafte, and has under it a very good cellar, where his lordfhip kept his wines, there being no good cellarage at his houfe which ftands near a quarter of a mile from the mount* He intended to rebuild the houfe, and convert all the ground lying between it and the mount into gardens - but death intervened, and terminated at once the defign and his hfe. The beauty of the improvements which his lordihip made in this mount, can hardly be conceiv- ed. He adorned it with ftatues, grottoes, and alcoves; and at every bend of the walks, fomething new and unexpected, ftrikes the eye of the fpeftator. On the eaft fide, about three miles down the river, are the ruins of the once celebrated Littlely, or Nettle- by-abbey ; the church of which is ftill fo entire as to have part of the roof ftanding. It appears to have been very capacious, and built in the form of a crofs ; great part of the walls are covered with ivy, many of the ftems of which are remarkably large. Mr. Willis, in his hiftory of Mitred Abbeys, tells us, that in the year 1704, the roof H AMPS HIRE. roof was entire, but foon after pulled down, together with great part of the walls, by a perfon who had pur- chafed the property of the abbey. Befides the church, there are ftill feveral rooms remaining, fufficient to fhew how fine an edifice this once was, and which ftill, though in ruins, exhibits a very venerable appearance. Round the whole are, large mounds, part of which kept up the banks of fifh-ponds, whofe overflowings were conveyed to a fort on the banks of the river, fuppofed to have been erected as a defence to the abbey. This edifice was built in the year 1239, by Henry III. who placed in it Ciftertian monks, and dedicated it to St. Mary and St. Edward. At the diflblution, it had an abbot and twelve monks, whofe revenues were valued at one hundred pounds, twelve (hillings and eight-pence per annum. Henry V. built a priory for black canons upon the banks of the river Itching, about two miles above South- ampton, and dedicated it to St. Dionifius, about the year 1124, in which were a prior and nine religious, whofe revenues, at the diflblution, amounted to eighty pounds, eleven (hillings and fix-pence per annum. Having viewed every thing curious in the town and neighbourhood of Southampton, we left that place, in order to vifit Portfmouth, the ftrongeft, and indeed the only regular fortification in this kingdom; In our road thither, we crofted the ferries of Itching and BufTelton, and at the latter obferved a man of war of fixty guns then building in a private yard. About three miles beyond the ferry at BufTelton, is Tichfield, a fmall place, but famous for an abbey built by Peter de Rupibus, who having obtained a grant of the manor from Henry III. erected this ftructure for Premonftrantenfian canons, in the year 1231, and dedi- cated it to the Virgin Mary. At the fuppreffion, it was inhabited by an abbot and twelve canons, and endowed with the yearly revenue of two hundred and forty-nine pounds, fixteen (hillings and a penny. Great part of the ftructure is (till (landing, and the lbuth front of it changed into a modern building. Leaving Tichfield, we pafl'ed on to Gofport, a town fituated over-againft Portfmouth, on the weft fide of the harbour, feventy-four miles from London. This town, though on a different fide of the harbour, and in a dif- ferent parifh, generally goes by the name of Portfmouth, being confidered, with regard to that town, as South- wark is with regard to London, except there being no bridge to unite them. Boats indeed are continually pafling from one to the other. Gofport is a large town, and has a confiderable trade: it is indeed chiefly inha- bited by the officers and failors belonging to the royal navy, and their wives ; and travellers alfo generally chufe to lodge here, as every neceuary of life is much cheaper here than at Portfmouth. A noble hofpital has been lately built at Hafler, near this town, for the cure of the fick and wounded feamen in the fervice of the navy. Here is alfo a free-fchool, a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs for toys, the firft held on the fourth of May, and the fecond on the tenth of Oc- tober. Portfmouth derives its name from its fituation at the port or mouth of a creek that runs up a part of the coaft, which at high-tide is furrounded with the fea, and is' therefore called Portfea Ifland. It is about fourteen miles in circumference, and is joined to the continent by A bridge a little above the town. At this bridge there was formerly a fmall caftle, the ruins of which are ftill remaining, and a town called Port Peris, which is now known by the name of Porchefter, and was then clofe Wpon the ftrand ; but the fea retiring from Porchefter, many of the inhabitants followed it; and fettling below Port Peris, built Portfmouth. This town is feventy-three miles diftant from London, and is a borough, governed by a mayor, aldermen, re- corder, bailiff, and common-council. In the reign of king Richard the fecond, the French burnt and de- ftroyed Portfmouth ; but it recovered fo much in fix years time, that the inhabitants fitted out a fleet, which beat the French at fea, as they were returning to infult the coaft a fecond time, and then proceeded to France, 11 entered the* river Seine, funk feveral (hips, and brought off a great booty. Portfmouth may be called the Key of England, and is the only regular fortification. It was begun by king Edward IV. and augmented by kings Henry VII. and VIII. and queen Elizabeth was, at fo great an e: pence in improving the works here, that nothing was though!: wanting to complete them : but king Charles II. added very much to their ftrength, extent, and magnificence, and made this one of the principal harbours in the king- dom, for laying up the royal navy : he furnifhed it with wet and dry docks, ftore-houfes, rope-yard?, and all materials for building, repairing, rigging, arming, victualling, and completely fitting to fea (hips of war of all rates. At this place all our. fleets of force, and all fquadrons appointed as convoys to o(rr trade, homeward or outward bound, conftantly rendezvous, and a thou- fand fail may ride here in perfect fecurity. The mouth of this harbour, which is fcarcc fo broad as the river Thames at Weftminfter, i?, upon the Portfmouth fide, defended by a caftle called South Sea Caftle, built by king Henry VIII. and fituated about a mile and an half fouth of the town. This caftle is forti- fied with a good counterfcarp and double moat, with ravellins, and double palifades, befides advanced works to cover the place from any approach, where it may be practicable; but part of this fort was accidentally blown up, and greatly damaged, in Auguft 1759. Befides the above caftle, it is defended on this fide by the guns on the platform, fally-port, and gun-wharf. The mouth of the harbour is, on the Gofport fide, defended by four forts, and a platform of above twenty great guns, level with the water. The harbour is capable of receiving the whole navy of England ; and the depth of the water fo great, that firft- rates may ride at the loweft ebb without touching the ground : at the fame time, it is fneltered from all winds* and forms one of the fineft ports in Europe. On the land-fide, the town is defended by a regular fortification, having a glacis, covered way, and deep fofle, which can, in halt an hour, be filled with water eight feet deep, ravelins, half-moons, &c. Within the' foffb the wall is fifceen feet in perpendicular height, with a double parapet for fmall arms on the mount, which is planned out in bafnons and curtins, the faces of one of the former regularly -flanking thofe of the other. Thefe works have been lately continued round the dock-yard, by which means that amazing magazine of naval ftores is fufficiently fecured againft any unex- pected attack of an enemy. The dock-yard is as convenient as can be imagined. It contains four large docks, each of which is capable of receiving two capital (hips at a time; and fuch is the dexterity of the workmen, that five (hips may be docked and cleaned every day, while the fpring-tides continue, which is generally four or five days ; fo that tv/enty or twenty-five (hips may be docked every fortnight. Within the dock-yard are dwelling-houfes, with ample accommodations for the commiffioner, and all the fubordinate officers and mafter-workmen, neceffary for the conftant fervice of the navy in this port day and night ; and the contents of the yards and ftore-houfes are laid up in fuch order, that the workmen can readily find any implement, even in the dark. The quantities of military and naval ftores of all kinds that are laid up here, are immenfe. The rope-houfe is near a quarter of a mile long, and fome of the cables fo large, that one hundred men are required to work upon them at a time ; and this labour, though divided among fo many, is, notwithftanding, fo violent, that the men can work at it only four hours in a day. The number of men con- tinually employed in the yard is never lefs than a thou- fand. The docks and yards refemble a diftincr. town, and are a kind of marine corporation within themfelves ; having alfo a royal academy, where young gentlemen are properly educated to ferve as officers in the royal navy. In one of the rooms of this academy is a very fine orrery, made by the late ingenious Mr. Rowley ; and a moft beautiful model of that unfortunate fhip the I Victory, which was built here F f On no H A M P S H I R E. On the third of July 1760, a fire broke out in the deck-yard, which confirmed the rope-houfe, the lpin- ning houfe, the hemp-houfe, and one of the ftore- houfes, with feveral ftores, to the value of more than fifty thoufand pounds. The fituatioh of this town being fo near the level of the fea, it is full of ditches, which it was found necef- fary to cut as drains, and the inhabitants are very liable to agues. The ftreets are generally very dirty, and the inns and taverns are, in time of war, perpetually crowded with feamen and foldiers. The church of this town is a large and handfome building : a bell at the top of the church-tower is rung to give an account of the number of fhips that enter the harbour; and from a watch- houfe at the top of the fteeple, there is a fine profpeft of the feveral fhips in the harbour, as well as of thofe at Spithead, a channel between Portfmouth and the Ifle of Wight, where fliips generally ride before they come into the harbour, or after they fail out of it, and before they put to fea. The deputy-governor has a beautiful houfe, with a neat chapel, and there is a very fine new key, called the Gun-wharf, for laying up the cannon. This place is, however, in great want of frefh water; and though the adjacent country abounds with all forts of provifions, yet the confumption of them at Portfmouth is fo great, that they are very dear, and fo alfo are lodg- ing and firing. It is obferved, much to the credit of the civil and military government of this place, that the military does neither corrupt the civil, nor the civil in- terrupt the military. Portfmouth has fo greatly increafed, by a continual conflux of people hither, within thefe few years, that a fuburb, called the Common, has been built, and is already larger than the town itfelf, and contains a greater number of inhabitants. The houfe* are alfo more elegant, and the ftreets wider and better laid out. At the fame time, it is independent of the laws of the garrifon, and not encumbered with the duties and fer- vices of the corporation. Portfmouth fends two members to parliament, has two weekly markets, held on Thurfday and Saturday, and one annual fair, called the Free Mart. It begins on the tenth of July, and holds fourteen days. It was formerly very greatly frequented by the inhabitants of the adjacent country, and large quantities of goods were yearly difpofed of y but has greatly declined for fome years paft. After having viewed every thing curious in Portf- mouth, we palled over to the Me of Wight, a place long famous, and which we were very defirous of viewing. Account of the Isle j/ Wight. The Ifle of Wight, though only a part of Hampfhire, is fo confiderable for its trade, fertility and natural beauties, that it well deferves a diftin£r. and particular notice.- It is of an irregular, elliptical form, and lies fo contiguous to the county of which it is a part, that the channel which divides it is in fome places not two miles broad, and in none more than fix or feven at high wa- ter. It is about twenty-four miles in length from eaft to weft, twelve in breadth from north to fouth, and fixty in circumference. The whole ifland is divided into twenty-nine parifhes, in which are four market- towns, four caftles, about three thoufand five hundred houfes, and twenty-feven thoufand fouls. The Ifle of Wight was fubdued by Vefpafian about the year 45, and continued under the Roman govern- ment till that people quitted the ifland. About the year 542, the ifland was fubdued by Cerdic, the firft king of the Weft Saxons. Cerdic gave it to his two nephews, Stufe and Withgar, who put all the inhabi- tants to the fword, and peopled it with their followers, the Jutes and Saxons. The ifland continued fubject to the Weft Saxons till about the year 650, when it was fubdued by Wulphur, king of the Mercians, who, after concerting Adelwalch, king of the South Saxons, whom he had taken prifoner, to chriftianity, he gave him the Ifle of Wight. But Adelwalch did not long enjoy it; for in the year 685, it was invaded by Ceadwalla, king of the Weft Saxons, who killed Adelwalch in battle", and this unhappy ifland fufiered all the miferies of de- valuation. In the year 1012, king Etheldred was driven by Swain, king of Denmark, into this ifland, where he lpent great part of the winter with a fmall retinue, and then failed to Normandy, whither he had before fent his queen, and his two fons, Alfred and Edward. Ha- rold, brother to Toiti, and fon to the earl Godwin, landed here with fome Flemifh pirates, but retired, after laifing heavy contributions on the inhabitants. Soon after William the Norman had conquered Eng- land, William Fitz-Ofborne, then marfhal of the king- dom, reduced this ifland, and was the firft lord of it after the conqueft. It has fuffered more than once from invafions by the French, who, in the reign of Richard II. burnt fome tov/ns and villages, and be- fieged Carifbrooke-caftle; but Sir Hugh Tyrrel, then governor of the ifland, forced them to raife the fiege, and content themfelves with one thoufand marks of filver, which they had railed upon the inhabitants, by way of contribution. About the year 1403, a thoufand French landed on the ifland, and feized a confiderable number of cattle ; but as they were driving them to their fhips, the iflanders fell upon them, killed two hundred, drove the reft to their fhips, and recovered their cattle. Henry VI. erected the Ifle of Wight into a kingdom ; for he not only gave it to his favourite, Henry de Beauchamp, whom he had created firft earl of England, and then duke of Warwick, with precedency before all other dukes, except Norfolk, but crowned him king of the iflands of Wight, Jerfey, and Guernfey, with his own hands. TJiefe ifles did not, however, long enjoy their regal title; for Henry de Beauchamp dying without iffue, they again reverted to the crown ; and Edward IV. made Edward lord Woodville, his fa- ther-in-law, lord of the Ifle of Wight, which grant was confirmed by Henry VII. but Woodville being dif- gufted at the king's refufing him leave to go to the af- fiftance of the duke of Bretagnc, withdrew privately to this ifland, raifed four hundred men there, and failed with them to Bretagne, where he was flain, with molt of his men, at the battle of St. Au'fin. In the reign of Henry VIII. two thoufand French landed here, but were foon repulfed with great lofs ; which fo enraged the French king, that he embarked an army to reduce the whole ifland ; but hearing his troops were like to be oppofed by an equal number, he gave over all attempts of this kind, as his fucceffors have done ever fince. The government of this ifland, a poft of the higheft truft and honour, is always given to fome perfon fkilled in military or maritime affairs, or to one of the firft rank. He has under him all the governors of the forts and caftles in the whole ifland, where there is al- ways one regiment in garrifon, and fometimes more. In ecclefiaftical affairs, it is fubject to the jurifdi£tion of the bilhop of Winchefter ; and in civil, to that of the county of Southampton. Air, Soil, and Produce. The air of this ifland is univerfally efteemed to be as pure and healthful as any in the kingdom ; and the foil is fo fruitful in its nature, and fo fkilfully and induftri- oufly managed by the hufbandmen, that it has long fince been allowed, that the annual produce of corn is fufli- cient for the inhabitants feven years; and fo greatly have their arable lands been improved of late, that, in the opinion of many, the proportion at prefent is as one to twelve. The traveller, therefore, in thefe parts, will not be difappointed, if he expects to be entertained with the richeft profufion of plenty, covering and adorning the face of nature ; and, at the fame time, he is agree- ably prefented with fome of the fineft and moft extenfive profpects of land and water which the eye can be regaled with. Through the middle part of the ifland, from eaft to weft, there runs a continued ridge of fpacious downs. The interior parts of thefe contain inexhauftible mines of chalk or marie, which is of infinite fervice to enrich and improve their lands. Upon the furface are bred vaft numbers of fheep, which afford excellent H A M P wool ; but being little of it manufactured here, it is raoft- ly boupht up by the merchants and exported in the fleece to the cloathirig parts of England. In paffing along thefe dbvfns you have frequently a delightful view of the fea, on both iides at once. The profpedt to the South is com tnu&lhi varied by the opening of new vales, meadows, $ ample corn fields ; and on the north and north-eaft, beild.es woods and fields which vary the profpedt on the ifland itielf, you fee Spithead, the towns of Portfmouth, ^Southampton, Lymington, &c. on the oppofite fhore. In fhort, the lovur of the beauties of creation will here meet with the highelt entertainmentj and the landfcape painter might both enrich his imagination and copy na- ture in her oeit attire. Nor is the coaft which encompaffes this ifland deftitute of its riches or natural curiofities. Here is excellent fifhing of various kinds, particularly for mullets, bafe, &c. Thougn the method of ufing trawls, which of late years has prevailed, is no fmall diminution of their plenty, it being found by experience to deftroy the fpawn. But ihell-hih, fuch as lobfters, crabs, prawns, &Ci are taken in the greatert plenty and excellence. Theextremiiies of the land, efpecially on the fouthern coaft, are for the moft part a natural fortification of rocks and cliffs. There is only one place called Sandown, on the S. E. part, which lies open to the incurfions of an enemy, and this is ftrongly fortified by art, and garrifon- ed with foidiers. The moll remarkable of thefe cliff's are two j one of them an erect wall of rocky ftone, which extends to fome miles in length, is of a vail height and furprifing regularity, confidering it as a work of nature, and of a fpecies wherein regularity for the molt part is as little to be found as it is wanted. It has, therefore, very much the appearance of an old rampart, or caftle wall, and as you view it a great way together, in aftraight line as to length, and riling to its lofty height in a per- pendicular direction, you would almoft imagine it to be the ofF-fpring of human labour in fome ancient indefati- gable age. What is further remarkable as to this cliff is, that it is at leaft half a mile from the water's fide, and the intermediate land is as fine, level, and pleafant a tract as any in the whole ifland. The other cliffs, which are among the more remark- able, are called Freih Water cliffs, from a village of that name in the neighbourhood. They are prodigious pro- montories of chalk, of which we before noted the hilly parts of this ifland are compofed. They rife to a ftu- penduous height, and are the extreme boundaries of the ihore on that coaft which lies nearefl to the weft on the fouthern fide. But what makes them to be one of the greater! curiofites in thefe parts, are the great number of exotic birds which annually refort to thefe cliffs to lay their eggs, hatch, and breed up their young. They are various both in colour and fpecies, and are differently fiz- ed from the bignefs of a pheafant to, perhaps, little more than a pigeon. At the firing of a gun, (a thing fre- quently done by fuch as go oft" in boats to view them) they fly round and over you in great numbers. Their food is fifh, which they are inceffantly flying off to pro- cure for thtmfclves and their young. The time of their coming (no-body knows from whence) is the latter end of March, or the beginning of April, and when their young are able to undertake the migration, which is fome time in July, they all take their flight, and you fee no more of them till, the following feafon. The country people, for the fake of an advantage which they make by taking thefe birds, defcend for that purpofe by a rope fattened to an iron bar which is driven into the ground on the top of the cliff*. Their method is to beat them down with a fhort ftick as they fly in and out ; and we were told, that a dozen of them will commonly yield a pound of feathers of a very delicate foftnefs, the price of which to the merchant is eight pence, and their carcaffes they fell to the fifhermen for fixpence the dozen, to bait their crab-pots. And it was added further, that fome of thefe peafants have been fo dextrous as to take five or fix do- zen in a day : a confiderable temptation to this adven- trous work. We vifited this place on account of the bird's ; and to get the better information, we confulted the farmer^ whofe houfe Is not a mile from the place ; he S H I R Ei iit allured us there were never more than three different forts of birds, two of which are large, about the fize of aduckj and the other fmall, fome what lefs than a pigeon ; and the leffer fpecies were there all the year round ; but the two largeft went and came at ftated times, as above re- lated : thefe lay eggs of an unufual fize, nearly as big a3 that of a goofe, which the people of that part of the ifland eat ; but they are no fuch fine coloured fowl, as they are ufually reprefented : we faw feveral of them, but none more variegated than a common mallard or drake. The village or parifh of Frefh-Water is alfo remark- able for a curious filver-like fand, of which great quan- tities are dug and fent to London, Briftol, and other places to make the finer fort of glafs wares. Upon this coaft are alfo found copperas ftones, of a good quality, and in fuch plenty, that veflels are often freighted with theiri to London. There are likewife beautiful fhells and fea- weeds, of the molt curious ramification and colouring we have ever feen. City, Boroughs, Market Town's, &c. Newport, the capital, is feated on a rifing ground near the centre of the whole ifland ; and to make it the more convenient for commercial affairs, it has the navigable river Medina running clofe to its fkirts, and emptying itfelf into the fea at four or five miles diftance, at the har- bour of Cowes. At this port there is a cuftom-houfe,at which many Carolina and Palatine ihips ufually clean In this river are taken abundance of flat fifh, and great quantities of the fatteft and beft flavoured oyfters in the kingdom.- — The air of Newport is lighefome and plea- fant ; and though the town is fituated upon a gentle and agreeable eminence, yet it is fo fheltered by the hills which encompafs it at about a mile diftance, that the cold is feldo'm felt to a degree of feverity common to molt other places. The ftreets are fpacious, clean, and confequently fweet. Thefe were at firft evidently laid out upon a regular plan, confifting chiefly of three long ones, extending from eaft to weft, and as many crofting them at right angles. They have been lately new pitched at a great expence ; the foot- way on each fide being ele- gantly paved arid ported off, which affords a very hand- fome appearance, befides the pleafure of excellent walk- ing. The buildings, though few of them grand, are neat and handfome, fo that not many places, we believe, are more frequently vifited by ftrarigers, or with greater latisfaction. Here are two weekly markets held on Wednefday and Saturday, though only that on Saturdays is worthy of no- tice. The great number of waggons, drawn by ftately teams ofhorfes, which are feen at this market, muft needs attract the obfervation of a ftranger. There are faid to be two hundred of thefe of a day, all laden with corn for this market, and which of courfe, according to their ufual lading, muft contain fourteen or fifteen hundred quar- ter^ of grain. Moft of this is bought up by the mei chants and their agents, for foreign markets, fo that in the laft year near twenty thoufand quarters were exported from Cowes only. A great deal indeed, both of their barley and wheat is manufactured amongft themfelves, and fent abroad in flour, malt, and bifcuit, for the navy, &c. Though in fome articles this manufacf ure has greatly di- minifhed of late years, fince the government have caufed mills and ovens to be erected for naVal fervices. Here is alfo expofed to fale in this market, alarg-eand pleafant fample of the various other productions of this fertile fpot Their poultry and butter, in particular, are fo plentiful and good, that great quantities of both are weekly bought up for the fupply of Portfmouth, &c. and of the latter much is barrelled for the winter confumption, and exported to very diftant parts. The rural inhabi- tants, which refort in great numbers to the markets for bufinefs, are of a remarkably found and healthy complex- ion ; and the fair fex are defervedly efteemed as fome of the moft beautiful of their fpecies. Newport fends two members to parliament; and be- fides the two weekly markets already mentioned, has an annual fair on Whitfun Monday, for horfes and toys. About a mile to the weftward of this town ftands Carif- 1 12 Hampshire. Carifbrooke caftle, which is feated upon a very exalted eminence overlooking a village of the fame name. This was once a confiderable fortrefs, and is faid to have been built by Whitgar, a favourite of Cerdic, king of the Weft Saxons, to whom he gave the ifland after having fubducd it, as was before noted. It was afterwards im- proved by Richard dc Rivers, earl of Devon, in the reign of Henry I. and repaired by queen Elizabeth; but it is now fallen into great decay. Though the hill upon which the caftle {lands has few to exceed it for height in the ifland, yet it is plentifully fupplied with water, than which there is none better. It is drawn up from a well of feventy-two yards deep, by the labour of an afs, which runs in a wheel for that purpofe. Upon thefe, and fome other accounts, particularly its being famous for the retention of ftate prifoners, this fortrefs is ftill vifited by ftrangers, as a piece of antiquity well worth their notice. Among the ftate prifoners that have been imprifoned in this caftle, was the unfortunate king Charles I. who was confined here eight months by colonel Hamond, then governor of Carifbrooke-caftle for the parliament ; and they ftill fhew the window through which that prince endeavoured to rnahe his efcape. Near the Carifbrooke-caftle is a village of the fame name, and was a confiderable town when Cadwalla took the ifland, and put all the inhabitants to the fword ; fince which time, it has never recovered itfelf. The church is dedicated to St. Mary, and was given by Wil- liam Fitz Ofborn, earl of Hereford, and nephew to William the Conqueror, to the abbey of Lyre in Nor- mandy, upon which a prior and fome black monks, from that foreign monaftery, were fettled here. At Arrcton, a village about three miles fouth-eaft of Newport, Baldwin de Redveriis, afterwards earl of De- von, built, in the year 1132, an abbey of Ciftertian monks, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. This monaftery continued till the general iuppreffion, when its annual revenues were valued at one hundred and thir- ty-four pounds, three fliillings and eleven-pence. Cowes is the name of two confiderable towns fituated at the mouth of the river running by Newport, and di- ftinguifhed by the epithets Eaft and Weft, from the fituatiens being on different fides of the river. That on the weft fide, and thence called Weft Cowes, is by much the largeft place, and has the moft trade of any in the ifland. Here are two caftles, built by Henry VIII. to defend the entrance of the river : that on the eaft fide of the river has been long neglecf ed ; but that on the weft fide has a garrifon, under the command of the deputy- governor of the ifland. The ports of Eaft and Weft Cowes were in a flourifh- ing condition while the heavy duties on goods imported from the American colonies were continued; for then the fhips from Virginia and the Weft Indies ufed to land their cargoes here, and after re-fhipping them, proceed on their voyage to Holland, Hamburgh, and other markets ; by which means they were entitled to a draw-back of the greater part of thofe heavy imports. Here alfo the mafters of merchant-fhips are furnifhed with money for bills ; and here the outward-bound fhips . are fupplied with frelh provifions and ftores. Several reputable merchants refide here, where many elegant houfes have been built within thefe fixty years paft ; but the fitu^tion is low, and on that account not reckoned fo healthy as the higher parts of the ifland. The church at Weft Cowes is only a chapel of eafe to Noithwoad, a fmall place about a mile to the fouthward of Cowes. At Burton, near Eaft Cowes, there was, as early as the reign of Edward I. a priory of black canons of the order of St. Aufiin, dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It confifted of feveral chaplains, under the government of an archiprefbyter, who, in the nineteenth year of the reign of Henry VI. gave away the eftate of the priory to St. Mary's college in Winchefter. Newton, or Newtown, is a fmall borough, fituated at the head of a little creek, about five miles fouth-eaft of Weft Cowes. It has fent members to parliament ever fince the reign of queen Elizabeth, and is governed by a mayor and burgefies ; but is a very inconfiderable place, though it has a convenient harbour. At Marvel, in the neighbourhood of Newtown, a college for four priefts was founded by Henry de Blois r bifhop of Winchefter, and augmented by Peter Roch, and Henry Woodlock, two of his fucceffors in that fee j and in the park near this place, is ftill a church, in which was a chauntry at the diffolution of religious houfes. Yarmouth is another borough-town, and confiderably larger than Newtown. It is fituated near the mouth of a creek on the weft fide of the ifland, four miles from Newtown. It was incorporated by king James I. and is governed by a mayor, recorder, aldermen, bailiffs, and common-councilmen. It is defended by a caftle, which, with the caftles of Sharpnore and Hurft, forms a triangle. The works are kept in repair, and there is always a garrifon here. The houfes are hand fome, and moft of them built of free-ftone. It is often called South Yarmouth, to diftinguifh it from Great Yarmouth in Norfolk. This town fent members to parliament in the twenty-third year of Edward I. but not afterwards, till the reign of queen Elizabeth, when the privilege was renewed, and has continued ever fince. The members are chofen by the corporation and burgeffe?, who are about fifty in number, and returned by the mayor. Here is a market on Friday, and a yearly fair, on the twenty-fifth of July, for toys. About two miles to the weftward of Yarmouth, is Sharpnore-caftle. It ftands direcf !y oppofite to Hurft- caftle in Hampfhire, and about two miles to the eaft- ward of the Needle-cliffs. This caftle has alfo a gar- rifon under a governor. At Appledurcomb, near the fouth coaft of the ifland,. there was a cell of Benedictine monks, fubordinate to the abbey of St. Mary's de Montifburgh, in Normandy. It was founded about the end of the reign of Henry III. by Ifabella de Fortibus, and was diffolved, with the reft of the alien priories, by Henry V. And at Godfhill, a little to the north of Appledurcomb, there is a church, which was early appropriated to the abbey of Lyre in Normandy.. About five miles to the eaftward of Appledurcomb, is Sandown-caftle, one of the ftrongeft fortifications in the- whole ifland, and has always a garrifon, with a gover- nor, captain, and thirty wardens, befides gunners. It ftands at the north extremity of Sandown-bay, the only place where it is poflible to land in this part of the ifland. St. Helen's is a fmall place, about three miles to the northward of Sandown-caftle, and remarkable for a fpa- cious road before it, where large fleets often come to an anchor. The village of St. Helens ftands on the north fide of an arm of the fea, which here runs up a confi- derable way into the land. Here was formerly an alien priory of Cluniac monks, but diffolved, with the reft of foreign monafteries, by Henry V. Having made a tour of the Ifle of Wight, and viewed every thing curious in that delightful fpot, we again em- barked at Cowes, and after a few hours, landed at Portfmouth. Continuing our journey to the eaftward, we parted through Havant, a neat market-town, nine miles from Portfmouth. The road leading from Portfmouth to Chichefter, and which runs through Havant, is lately made a turnpike-road : we wifh we could fay it was any thing better for the alteration ; but all the improvements we obferved, were the gates erected for receiving the tolls. Havant has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-fecond of June, and the eleventh of October, both for toys. About a mile from Havant, on the fouth fide of the road, are the remains of a famous caftle, formerly be- longing to the earls of Surry. One of the towers is ftill ftanding, together with fome part of the walls, now overgrown with ivy. Part of the moat alfo which en- com parted this caftle, is ftill vifible. A farm-houfe is built out of the ruins, and on the fite of the ancient manfion ; and near it is the parifh-church, a very low and mean edifice, but frequented by a large congre- / H A M P S Two miles from Havant, and on the road to Chi- chefter, is Emfworth, a very flourifhing fea-port town, fituated at the head of one of the branches of Chichefter- haven. Here are three fhip-wrights yards, where a great number of coafting veffels, from an hundred and fifty to twenty tons burden, are continually building. This town has increafed prodigioufly within thefe twenty or thirty years part, and there are now near eighty fail of coafting veffels belonging to it. Here are alio two large water-mills for grinding corn, great quantities of flour being fent from hence to London, Briftol, Ireland, and other markets in thefe kingdoms. It has no market, but two annual fairs, the firft held on Eafter Monday, and the fecond on the eighteenth of July, both for toys. Remarks on the Sea-Coasts of Hampfliire. The fea-coafts, which terminate the main land of Hampfliire' to. the fouth, have nothing remarkable, ex- cept a bank of land ftretching all along the fhore from Hurft-caftle to Calfhot-caftle, at the mouth of South- ampton-water. This bank is about a mile in breadth, and the greater part of it is dry at low water; Two miles to the fouthward of Calfhot-caftle, and near the middle of the channel between the main land and the Ifle of Wight, is a fnoal called the Bramble, on which there is not above three feet at low water 5 care muft therefore be taken to avoid this b^nk in palling Up or down the channel. A mile S.S.E. from the Bramble, is another fand- bank, called the Middle, on the fhoaleft part of which there is not more than three feet at low water; and muft therefore, like the former, be carefully avoided. About two miles to the weftward of Portfmouth har- bour, is a village called Stoke, before which is a fine road, called Stokes-bay, where fhips often ride. The water is from three to feven fathoms deep, and the bot- tom very good anchor-ground, being an ouzy fand. A little to the northward of Gilkicker, a fea-mark erected on the weftern point of Portfmouth harbour, a fartd-bank, called the Spit, ftretches off a mile from the fhore* which obliges all fhips going into Portfmouth harbour to pafs near South Sea caftle, the channel lying within half a mile of it. From South Sea caftle, a large fand ftretches all along the fhore for near two miles to the eaftward, and to the diftance of two miles and a half from the fhore. It is called the Horfej and on the fouthern extremity of it a large buoy is placed, that fhips may avoid it as they pafs along the channel leading to Spithead. The depth of the water on this fand is from three to ten feet at low water. Several fhips have been loft on this fand; the eafterrt point of which, called the Dean, forms the weftern bank of the channel leading to Langftone- haven. The eaft fide of the above channel is formed by another fand-bank, called the Walfener, part of which is dry at low water. From hence to the mouth of Chichefter harbour, which terminates Hampfliire to the eaftward, is one of the fineft beaches, compofed of pebbles, fand and fhells, anywhere to be feen; and at the foot of it a fand-bank, ftretching off about half a mile into the fea. Part of this fand-bank is dry at low water. We now come to defcribe the fea-coafts round the Ifle of Wight ; and fliall begin at a fhoal called No- man's-land," which lies at the north-eaft corner of the ifland. This bank, which is dry at low water, forms the fouthern fhore of the channel leading to Spithead. At the north-eaft point of this bank is a buoy, near op- poflte to that placed on the Horfe ; the channel, which is here but little more than a mile in breadth, running be- tween them. This bank extends above five miles in length, to a place called Fifh-houfe, where it is termi- nated by a creek running up a considerable diftance into the ifland. A fmall ledge of rocks lies along the fnorc near the eaftern point of Cowes harbour ; but they are dry at low water, and fo very near the land, that no danger can be apprehended. XI HIRE. : ii§ From the point oppofite to Hurft-caftle, to the Needle cliff's, the fhore is full of rocks, and therefore dangerous to fhips when they come foo near the land. The channel to the weftward of Hurft-caftle is bounded onthefouth by the Needle-cliffs, and to the northward by a bank of pebble-ftones, called the Shingles. This channel is fomething lefs than a mile in breadth, and the bank is dry at low water. All the fouthern coaft of the ifland from the Needle- clift's to Sandown-bay, is bounded by prodigious rocky precipices ; but in northerly winds, Frefhwater-bay is an excellent road, though the utmoft care is ncceflary tti avoid it when the winds are foutherly. Mention has been already made of landing upon almoft any of the fouthern coafts on the Ifle of Wight, whicli is indeed very often fatal to failors ; particularly in one part of it, called Chale Bay, where there is fuch an eddy, as renders it extremely difficult, when a lee-fhorcj to keep an offing fufficient to avoid the danger. At the fame time, it gives us pain to remark, that the country- people, of the meaner fort, have for many years been, too juftly accufed of making a barbarous advantage of thefe misfortunes, plundering and carrying off the ef- fects of the unfortunate fufferers in a moft ur.juft and infamous manner. But this favage practice has been lately very much fuppreffed ; and it is hoped, for the honour of humanity, will be foon totally aboliflied. To the eaftward of Chale Bay is a very lofty head- land, called Dunofe, which is viable at a great diftance. The whole fhore is bordered with rocks* without a Angle" road for fhips, before we come to Sandown-bay, where there is good riding for fhips in wefterly winds ; the water being from two to feven fathoms deep, and tha bottom" an ouzy fand. A little to the north-eaft of Sandown-bay, is a very remarkable head-land, called White-cliff, Swan-cliff,' arid Beacon-cliff. The two former are owing to its ap- pearance, being a hill of chalk, tiling nearly in a per- pendicular direction from the fea, to an amazing height ; and the latter lo a beacon, formerly erected on its fummit. About three miles to the northward of White-cliff, is Bembridge Point, before which is a prodigious ledge of rocks, called the Mixon. This ledge extends near a mile from the fliou', which muft therefore be here carefully avoided; Bembcidge Point forms the fouthern extremity of St. Helens road, the northern being the Horfe, and No- man's-land, already described. Curious Plants found in Hampfhire. Bird's-foot, Ornithropus, found plentifully in the heaths near Petersficld. Monks Rhubarb, Rumex, found in the fields near Rumfey. Common broad-leaved Liverwort, Lichen petraus lati- foiius, five hepatica fontana, C. B. found in fevera! parts of the New Foreft, between Rumfey and Chrift- church. Sea Scurvy-grafs, Cochlcaria, found plentifully on the fea-fiiore near Emfworth. Buglafs, Anthufa, found on the fides of the hills near Petersfield. Sweet Cane, Calamus aromaticus, found in many of the brooks near Wincheftcr. Sun-dew, Ros Solis, found in the meadows lying along the banks of the Itching. Round-leaved Marfli St. Pcter's-wort, Afcyrum fu~ pinum paluflre vilhfum, R-ay, found near the borders of fprings, chiefly near Aylsford. Butter-wort, with a fmall flefh-coloured flower, Pirtguieula fore minor e cameo, Ray, found in a boggy ground near Lindhurft, in the New Foreft. Samphire, Crithmum, feu Frvniculum marinum, Ray, found among the rocks, particularly on the fides of White-cliff, in the Ifle of Wight. Water-mint with a fpicy fmell, Mentha arvenfi ver- ticrllata folio rotundiore ochre aromatic-), Ray, found under the hedges near Whitchurch. G £ Marfte ni4 HAMPSHIRE. Marfh Afparagus, or Sperage, Afparagm palujlris, Ger. found on feveral of the cliffs in the Ifle of Wight. Small Sea-crane's Bill, Geranium pufillum maritimum fupinum botanica folio, Ray, found on the fhores near Emfworth. Tender ivy-leaved Bell-flower, Campanula palujlre tymbalaria foliis, Ger. found on the fides of the river Tefe, near Rumfey. Vesiculate Knot-grafs, with thyme-like leaves, Po- lygonum ferpyllifohum verticulatum, Ray, found in the watery meadows near Bedhampton. Hairy Kidney-wort, Cotyledon hirfuta, Ray, found near Silchefter. Wood-fage, Salvia agreftis,feu fcorodania, Ger. found in feveral parts of the New Foreft. The Englifh Sea-peafe, Pifu?n maritimum ar,gelicum, Ray, found on the beach near Hurft-caftle. Smo:>th-leaved Rupture-wort, Hcrniaria glabia, Ray, found in plenty on the beach near Frefhwater, in the Ifle of Wight. Eryngo, or Sea-holly, Eryngium marinum, Ray, found on the beach near Sandown-caftle, in the Ifle of Wight. Wood-forrel, Acetofellum, found in the woods near Havant. Antique Coins found in Hampfhire. A very great variety of coins have been found in this county, efpccially of the Romans. A very confiderable quantity were dug up at Winchefter about the yeaf 1621. In feveral parts about Southampton, Roman coins have alfo been found, cfpecially about the ruins of the Roman city called Caufentum, in the neighbour- hood of that town. At Porchefter, near Portfmouth, alfo Roman coins have been found ; a fufficient indica- tion that the Romans once poflefled that caftle, the; works of which are ftill entire. At Silchefter, vaft quantities of Roman coins have been, and are ftill daily found. Coins have alfo been found near all the Roman camps we have mentioned in their proper places. But the Roman are not the only antique coins that have been found in this county; feveral ftruck by the Bri- tons, Saxons, and Danes, have alfo been found here, efpecially at Silchefter, Winchefter, Southampton, Red- bridge, Rumfey, Wherwell, at Newport in the Ifle of Wight, and feveral other parts of Hampfhire* Members of Parliament for Hampfhire. This county fends twenty- Cx members to parliament, two knights of the fhire for the county, two citizens for Winchefter, and two burgefles for each of the following corporations ; Southampton, Portfmouth, Newport, Yarmouth, Newton, Lymington, Chrift-cburch, An- dover, Whitchurch, Petersfield, and Stockbridge, SUSSEX. ( Mfl 1 s u s T" H E county of Suflex, or, as the original name from which the prefent is formed by corruption, which implied, the country of the South Saxons, is bound- ed on the weft by Hampfhire; on the north by Surry; on the eaft by Kent ; and on the fouth by the Britifti Chan- nel. It is about fixty-nine miles in length, twenty-nine in breadth, and one hundred and feventy in circumference, and contains one thoufand four hundred and fixteen fquare miles. It is divided into fix rapes, which has each its particular caftle, river, and foreft; and is fubdivided in- to fixty-five hundreds, containing three hundred and twelve parifties, one hundred and twenty-three vicarages, one city, eighteen market towns, one thoufand and fixty villages, hamlets and chapelries, about twenty-one thou- fand^five hundred and thirty-feven houfes, and twelve thoufand nine hundred fouls. Cuckfield, a market town near the middle of the county is forty miles S. W. of London. RIVERS. The principal rivers in this county are the Arun> the Adur, the Oufe, and the Rother. The Arun rifes in St. Leonard's foreft near Horfham, a borough town of this county, and running a few miles weft ward, turns due fouth, and pafling near Arundel, another borough town, falls into the Englifh channel, at a place called Little Hampton, about three miles to the fouth of Arundel. The Adur, fometimes called the Seeding, rifes alfoin St. Leonard's foreft, and running almoft parallel to the Arun, panes firft by Stening, and afterwards by Bramber, two boroughs, and from the latter has obtained the name of Bramber waters. After leaving the above towns, it continue, itscourfeina fouthern direction to New Shore- ham, another borough town ; where it turns to the eaft, and falls into the Britifti channel about three miles below Sborefiam. The Oufe is formed chiefly of two branches, one ri- %&o in the foreft of St. Leonard, near the fource of the A-Jur. and the other in the foreft of Worth, north of Ci kfiekl. Thefe two ftreams unite near Braghill, and continue their courfe in a fouth -eaft direction to Newyck, vvrv.rethe river bends to the fouth, and in that direction, after being encreafed by feveral rivulets, pafTes by Lewis, a very conliderable borough town, and falling into the Britifti channel, forms a harbour called New-haven, about eight miles below Lewis. The kother rifes at Rotherfield, near the foreft of Downe ; and running eaftward divides itfelf into two ftreams, upon the borders of Kent, and uniting again forms an ifland called Oxney Ifland, and falls into the Britifti channel near Rye, one of the Cinque ports. Befides the above there are feveral lefs confiderable rivers in this county, particularly the Lavant, the Cuckmeer, the Afhburn, and the Auften, all which, as well as the rivers whole courfes have been defcribed, are confined within the limits of Suflex ; but are too fmall to merit a particular defcription. Remarks on ^Inland Navigation of Suflex. The harbour of Chichefter is fufficiently capacious to contain the whole navy of England ; but a bar ftretches acrofb the mouth of it in fuch a manner as to render the entrance very dangerous ; nor is there water enough for a large (hip, but at high-water on a fpring tide : nor is this all, the bar is not fixed, but fhifts with every ftorm, and often with every tide, fo that only perfons who refide upon the fpot are capable of carrying in and out of this harbour. It is however pretty much frequented by vefTels SEX* trading to and from Chichefter, Emfvvorth, Boftiam, and other places fituated near it. About ten miles to the eaftward of Chichefter, is Sid— dlefam haven, which veflels enter with the tide, there being fo little water when the tide is out, that the mouth of the harbour maybe forded. Nine miles farther to the eaftward is the village of Lit- tle Hampton, built at the mouth of the Arun. Here was formerly a very good harbour, called Arundel Port or the harbour of Little Hampton, capable of receiving ftiips and veflels of confiderable burden ; but a beach be- ing thrown up by the fea, it was quite choaked up, and the navigation fo greatly obftructed, that the harbour was rendered in a manner ufelefs. To remove this obftruc- tion, an act palled in the year 1733, for erecting piers^ cutting a canal through the beach, erecting locks, and other works neceftary to cleanfe the harbour and keep it from being choaked up by the fea. This act has accord- ingly been carried into execution ; and the harbour is now capable of receiving fhips of confiderable burden. Barges go up to Pulborough, a fmall town twelvemiles from the works at the mouth of theriver 4 and veflels of a hundred tons as high as the key atArundeJ. One great advantage to the county from this river is, the fhipping oft* great quantities of large timber, which is carried to the royal docks at Portfmouth, Chatham, Woolwich and Deptford, and fome of it even to Pli- mouth. The timber ftiipped off here is efteemeel the beft and largeft brought from any part of England : great quantities of knee-timber is alfo exported from hence ; a Commodity of the utmoft confequence in ftiip-build- ing. About fourteen miles to the eaftward of Little Hamp- ton, is the harbour of Shoreham, formed by the mouth of the Adur. The harbour will not admit ftiips of large burthen ; nor has the navigation received any im- provements from art. Indeed there are no places of con- fequence in the neighbourhood^ fo that the meer current of the river anfvvers all the purpofes of an inland naviga- tion, we mean that of bringing down timber felled in the adjacent woods; which is now conveyed by floats to New Shoreham, where there is water fufficient for ftiips of one hundred tons burden. New-haven lies about twelve miles to the eaftward of New Shoreham ; and was once a very fafe and commo- dious harbour for ftiips of confiderable burden ; but for want of keeping in repair the timber piers, which it had from time immemorial, it was quite neglected, the piers became rotten, and the harbour choaked up with fand and beach. To remedy thefe evils, an act pafl'ed in the year 1 731, for repairing and keeping in repair the faid piers* and harbour. It has not, however, yet been carried into execution, though it could not fail of being of the great- eft advantage to "Lewis, to which place the river might be made navigable at a very fmall expence, and the neighbouring parts. Pevenfey, which is about fifteen miles farther to the eaftward, had alfo once a good harbour, but is now to- tally choaked up with the fands ; nor is there any other port in this part of the county till you come to Haftings* where ftiips may ride fafely in northerly and wefterly winds. Rye, which is eighteen miles to the north-eaft of Haf- tings, had formerly a very fine heaven ; but it is now through neglect, almoft choaked up; Some confiderable families who have lands near the channel, have taken ad- vantage of this neglect, to extend their boundaries ftill nearer to the channel, by which means, there is not back water fufficient on the ebb to fcour away the beach thrown up by the flood. Nor was this the whole mifchief occa- fioned by thefe encroachments ; for now ftiips of fmall burden only can come within any convenient diftance of n6 S U S the town ; whereas formerly the largeft veffels, and even whole fleets together, could anchor juft by the roc ki on which the town ftands : and as this port lies over- againft Dieppe in France, and there is no other harbour between Portfmouth and Dover that can receive large fhips, this harbour, in its original fta:e, would prove of the grcateft advantage to the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Nor were its ufes unknown to the legifla- ture; for an act of parliament patted in the year 1721, which enacts, that no new walls, banks, dams, or flops, fhall, for the future, be creeled on either fide of the water, having any tendency to alter the flux or re- flux of the fea, between the mouth of the harbour, and the New Shutt, near Craven-fluice. In the year 1723, another act pafled for completing the repairs of the harbour of Dover, and forreftoring the harbour of Rye to its ancient goodnefs, which {till continued to be choaked up, and almoft ruined, by the fhifting of the beach without, fettling of the foillage within° and (topping the flux of the tide, which this act propofed mould have its free courfe through the Scotch fiat and Craven fluices, or into fuch other channel as fhould be found moft proper and expedient. And in 1724, another act pafled for making the laft act more effectual, fo far as it related to the harbour of Rye, in which a power was given to change the defign of mak- ing a paflage by the above fluices, and to open a new cut from the Winchelfea channel, ftrait out to the fea. And they actually began, in purfuance of this act, to cut a broad and deep channel, which was to be carried to the fea, on the fide of Winchelfea, for the ufe of the two boroughs. But thefe provifions being ftill found infufn- cient, another act pafled in 1738, for continuing the term and powers granted by the former acts, for repairing the harbour of Dover, and for reftoring that of Rye to its ancient goodnefs. In i.761, another act was pafled for making a commo- dious harbour here ; and on the fourteenth of July, 1762, the new harbour was opened, where mips of three hun- dred tons burden may ride with the greateft fafety. Air, Soil, and Productions. The air along the fea coaft is reckoned aguifh, at leaft to foreigners; but the inhabitants are very healthy. In the northern parts of the county, bordering upon Kent and Surry, a large woody tract calle ' the Weald, or Wild, which is faid to be about one hundred and twenty miles long, and in fome parts near thirty broad, the air is foggy but not unhealthy ; and upon the downs, in the middle of the county, it is exceeding fweet and pure. In the Weald of SufTex the foil is rich and deep, and produces great quantities of oats and hops; but the roads, in the winter feafon, are the worft in England; for many of the prodigious trees which grow here, and are carried through this part of the country in the fum- mer-time, to the Medway, on a carriage cailed a Tug, drawn by twenty oxen, advances fo flowly, that it is often feveral years before the tree reaches the place of its deilination ; for if once the rains fet in, it ftirs no more for that year, and often the fummer is not dry enough to make the roads paflable. Thefe northern parts arc, in general, covered with woods, from whence the royal docks are chiefly fupplied with timber, the iron-works with fuel, and many parts of the kingdom with charcoal. The middle part of the county is delightfully che- quered with meadows, paftures, groves, and corn-fields, which produce great quantities of wheat and barley. In the fouthern parts towards the fea, are high hills, called the South Downs, confifting of a fat £ halky foil, very fruitful both in corn and grafs ; and feeding vaft multitudes of fheep, remarkable for their fine wool, which is too often exported clandeftinely to France, by farmers and jobbers, here called Owlers. In the Weald of SufTex is found a mineral called Talc ; and in the eaftern part of the county great plenty of iron-ore is dug ; and here are many furnaces, forges, and water-mills, both forcaltand wrought iron. s SufTex is particularly famous for a delicious bird", called the Wheat-ear, perhaps from its being moft in feafon when that fpecies of corn is ripe : it is about the fize of a lark, and fo fat and tender, that they cannot be carried far, of kept long in their feathers ; for which reafon they are generally potted, and fent to London and other places. Thefe delicate birds are taken in the following manner: They cut up a turf about a foot long and fix inches broad, and turn up the turf to cover the hole, in which they fix a fnare made with horfe- hair; and as the bird is remarkably fhy and timorous, it will, even at the appearance of a dark cloud, run for flielter into thofe traps, where they are taken. Great numbers of thefe traps may be feen at the proper feafon, on the fides of the hills between Lewis and Eaft- bourne; and fometimes the quantity taken is fo large, that one fhepherd has been often known to get thirty or forty dozen in a day. They are found here only about the time of harveft, coming a little before that feafon, and leaving the country foon after ; but to what part of the world they retire and fpen.d the other parts of the year, is not known. In the river Arun are caught vaft quantities of mullets, which, in the fummer feafon, come up from the fea as far as Arundel, in vaft fhoals, where, by feeding on a particular weed in the river, they acquire fo fine a tafte, as renders them a great de-. licacy. Among the rocks on the coaft between Chi- chefter harbour and the mouth of the Arun, the fineft lobfters in England are taken ; and the cockles found in the fands near Selfey, are greatly admired. The mackarel and herrings alfo caught near Rye are efteemed the beft. of their kind. Husbandry of SufTex. The SufTex hufbandmen, though very afllduous in their bufinefs, have not adapted the modern improvements in that neceflary art. They follow the tract of their fore- fathers with very little variation. The turnep hufban- dry is hardly known, and their peafe and beans are ne- ver hoed, by thefe means great part of the farmer's pro- fits are loft. They ufe wheel plows, and turn up an acre of land in a day with four horfes. Their courfe of crops in general, are, 1. fallow, peafe or beans, 2. wheat, 3. barley. The new, or drill hufbandry is very little known, being practifed only in fome few parts of the county. They are itrangers to the method of feeding hogs with clover, though perhaps a field of that grafs cannot be turned to fo much profit any other way. The rent of land is from ten to twenty fhillings per acre. They plow three times for wheat, fow three bufhels on an acre, and often reap four quarter?, three is reckoned a middling crop. For barley, they plow twice, fow two bufhels, and rec- kon three quarters a middling produce. They plough but once for peafe, fow three bufhels, and reap at a medium two quarters and a half. They rarely fow vetches, except for cutting green as fodder for their cat- tle; they plough but once for them, and fow two bufhels on an acre. The farms are not large, efpecially in the weftern parts- of the county, generally from thirty to two hundred pounds a year. In the paftures about Chichefter, Amberley, and other diftricts of the county, great numbers of oxen are fat- ted, and fold to the victualling-office at Portfmouth, and to the butchers in the neighbouring towns. The price of labour, as far as we could get information, is as follows : A labourer 1 s. 4d. a day all the year round except harveft. In harveft 2 s. 6d. with beer. Reaping wheat 4 s. od. per acre. Mowing barley is. grafs is. 6d. Raking barley o 8d A lad of thirteen or fourteen years old has four-pence a day. In the fouthem parts of the county, they make great ufe of fea-ore for manuring their land , and fome of the farmers » s u s farmers adopt the rational practice of making a compoft dunghill with that weed, dung, earth, and the foil taken out of ditches, and the bottoms of ponds and rivers. Lime and foap-afhes are alfo ufed as manures, but not fo generally as theydeferve; but the coal-afhes are fuf- fered to lie in heaps, without the farmers thinking it worth their time and labour to fetch and fpread them on their ground ; nor could we find they ever made uie of fea-fand as a manure, though in many parts it is luffi- ciently mixed with broken fhells and coral. In the northern parts, they conftantly fold their fheep, and are very attentive to collect every fpecies of manure that ©fters. . . ' Trade and Manufactures. The principal trade of this county confifts in export- ing corn, flour, ' timber, and other produces of the county j for it has very little foreign trade, except to France, when the exportation of corn is allowed. And with regard to the manufactures, the principal are eaft and wrought iron, charcoal, and gunpowder ; the latter, which is made at a market-town called Battel, is faid to be the belt in the world. City, Boroughs, Market Towns, csV. We entered this county near Emfworth, over a ftone- bridge of two arches, and immediately turned to the northward, in order to view a fine feat called Stanftead, lately belonging to the earls of Scarborough, and the Lumley family, but now to the earl of Hallifax. In our way, we palled through a fmall town called Welt- bourne, where there was formerly a market, which has b en for many years difufed, though the marker-houfe is ft ill ilanding. The church is capacious, with a hand- fome fquare tower, but has nothing in it remarkable. Stanftead is about three miles to the north of the road leading from Portfmouth to Chichefter. It ftanls in the middle of a very fine park, finely diverfified with walks and lawns, and the vifta from the houfe towards the weft, is one of the fineft we remember to have feen in all our travels. The houfe is extremely elegant, and has four fronts, facing the four cardinal points. The grand ftair-cafe is extremely beautiful ; and in feveral of the rooms are very fine tapeftry, reprefenting fe- veral actions of the army commanded by the famous duke of Marlborough, under whom one of the Lumley family ferved. The profpect from this feat is beautiful beyond defcription, especially from the roof, which is flat, and covered with lead. To the fouth and fouth- weft, you fee the feveral harbours and arms of the fea from Southampton-water to Chichefter-haven, the fhips at Portfmouth and Spithead, together with thofe palling and re-paffing between the feveral ports, and finely ter- minated by the Ifle of Wight. The interjacent country Is beautifully diverfified with woods and water, corn- fields and meadows, and interfperfed with towns, vil- lages, and farms. To the eaftward is a charming country, decorated with gentlemen's feats, and rural habitations. Chichefter fpire is diftinctly feen, and adds greatly to the beauty of the perfpective. When we were at Stanftead, the earl of Hallifax was making feveral improvements, which, when finifhed, will be great ornaments to this beautiful feat : but we could not help obferving with regret, that this charming retirement was deftitute of water, and confequently, wanted one capital beauty. The houfe indeed is fup- plied with good water from a deep well funk in what is called the Old Buildings ; but there is none for fountains, and other decorations of that kind. We Were informed, that feveral years fince, the houfe, gardens, and fountains, of which there were then feveral, were fupplied with water from the river at Weft-bourne, by means of an engine, and were ftiewn the place where the engine was erected. The water- wheel was placed under an arch, which fupported a fmall houfe, the refidence of the perfon who had the care of the engine. This building, which is yet ftanding, is ftill called the engine-houfe. But from fome caufe, now unknown, the works were fuffered to decay, the 13 SEX. 117 refervoir, into which the water was thrown, filled up, the fountains in the gardens removed, and the well al- ready mentioned funk, to fupply the neceflary want of water in the family. . ' ■ .: The Old Buildings above-mentioned are the remains of a very ancient and capacious houfe, once the feat of the Lumley family, the prefent edifice not having been erected above feventy or eighty years. The original ftructure appears, from the few parts of it ftill remain- ing, to have been a noble pile of building in the Gothic tafte. It was decorated with towers, feveral of which are yet ftanding, and other ornaments, which ftill ex- hibit a magnificent appearance, even in decay. Leaving Stanftead, we purfued our journey towards Chichefter, through a very beautiful country, lying at the foot of the South Downs. On the fummit of one of thefe eminencies, called Bow-hill, are four large bar- rows, faid to be the fepulchres of four Saxon kings or generals, llain in a battle fought at the foot of this hill. The city of Chichefter is fituated in a plain, on the river Lavant, fixty-three mi)es from London. It was called Caercei by the ancient Britons, and their king Careticus was befieged in it by fome Saxon and Norwe- gian pirates, who fet the city on fire, and Careticus re- tired to the mountains of Wales. After the eftablilh- ment of the Saxon heptarchy, it was rebuilt by Cilia, the fecond king of the South Saxons, who called it Cif- fanceafter, or the city of Cilia ; and the South Saxon kings made it their royal refidence. When William the Conqueror landed in England, there were only an hundred houfes in Chichefter; but that prince bellowing it on Roger de Montgomery, he made fo many additions to the buildings, that biftiop Strigand removed his epifcopal chair hither from Selfey, where it was originally placed ; and his fucceilbr, Ralph, began a cathedral here ; but the ftructure being con- fumed by an accidental fire, on the fifth of May 11 14, before it was finifhed, he laid the foundations of a fe- cond, which was completed by his fucceflbrs. This fecond cathedral, together with the greater part of the city, was alfo burnt in the reign of Richard I. but Sel- frid, or SafFrid, then bifhop of Chichefter, rebuilt both the cathedral and the town. Chichefter is a county of itfelf, and governed, ac- cording to a charter of king James II. by a mayor, a recorder, aldermen, and common-council, without li- mitation. The mayor is chofen annually, and is at- tended by four ferjeants at mace, and a common crier. It is a very neat and compact city, inclofed by a ftonc wall, in which are four gates, facing the four cardinal points. A ftreet runs from each of thefe gates, diftin- guifhed by the epithets Eaft, Weft, &c. according to the point its gate faces. Thefe ftreets, which are broad, and the houfes tolerably well built, crofs each other iri the centre, where there is a crofs erected by Edward Story, biftiop of this fee, about the beginning of the fix- teenth century, and repaired and beautified in the year 1746 by his Grace the late duke of Richmond ; fo that it is at prefent one of the moft beautiful crolTes in Eng- land. From this crofs the four gates of the city might once be feen, but at prefent only thofe at the eaft and fouth ; the view towards the weft being obftructed by a row of mean low houfes built along the wall of the ca- thedral church-yard, which was formerly the fouth boundary of the ftreet; and that towards the north by a range of buildings, extending fome diftance from the crofs towards the north gate, along the weft fide of the ftreet. By thefe encroachments the regular form of the city is greatly injured ; nor do the buildings themfelves, abftracted from their fituation, add any thing to its beauty. The market for butter, eggs, fowls, &c. is held in the crofs, that for fifh in the South-ftreet, the corn-market in the North-ftreet, and the beaft-market in the Eaft-ftreet. The maiket-houfe is fituated on the eaft fide, and near the middle of the North-ftreet. It ftands upon pillars, and over it is the council-chamber, a very elegant room, where public balls, afTemblies, &tv are often held. The guild-hall is a very mean ftructure, fituated in an obfeure part of the town ; near which is St. Mary's- H h halL SUSSEX. hall, an ancient hofpital, erected for a matter and fe- veral poor brethren, in the reign of Henry 111. by Wil- liam, dean of the cathedral. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and, at the diflblution, valued at thirty- five pounds, fix {hillings and three-pence per annum. It is now inhabited by feveral poor perfons, who have a fmall allowance weekly. The cathedral is a very elegant, though not a large Gothic edifice, built in the form of a crofs, the fouth part of which is, on one fide, adorned with the pictures of all the kings and queens of England, from CLfla to the prefent time ; and on the other, with all the bifhops of this fee. Thefe ornaments were begun by bifhop Shelburn in the reign of Henry VII. who brought them down to his time, from whence they have been con- tinued. Shelburn added other ornaments to this church, but many of them were defaced, as well as the pictures above-mentioned, in the civil wars. The choir has been lately repaired and beautified, and is now one of the neateft in England. The fpire, which is three hundred feet high, is a moil excellent piece of work- manfhip, and cannot fail of pleafing the eye of every curious fpeclator. About twenty years ago, the fteeple received fuch a fhock, that it is amazii.g it did not tu nble down ; the confequence of which, in all proba- bility, would have been the demolifhing thewhole church. It was occafioned by what the inhabitants call a fire- ball, or rather lightning, which ftruck the fteeple with fuch irrefiftible force, that it drove feveral large ftones out of it, and carried them to a prodigious diftance from the fteeple. One of thefe Hones, weighing at leaft a ton, was thrown over the fouth row of houfes in the Weft-ftreet, and fell on the ground at a gentleman's door on the other fide of the way ; and another of them, almoft as large as the former, was projected over both fides of the Weft-ftreet, and fell in the fame gentleman's garden, without any hurt being done by either. The breach made in the fpire by this fhock was incredibly laro-e, and within forty-five feet of the top, though the fteeple flood firm, and was foon after fubftantially re- paired ; a fufficient proof that it was originally a found and wcll-finifhed piece of workmanfhip. In the body of the church are feveral monuments ; but thofe of bifhop Carleton and biftiop King, whofe effigies are curioufly done in marble, are the molt re- markable. The chapter confifts of a dean and thirty prebendaries, two archdeacons, a treafurer, chancellor, chaunter, and twelve vicars choral. The cathedral, bifhop's palace, dean's houfe, and thofe of the prebends, fill the fouth- weft quarter of the town. The palace, which is rather large than elegant, was rebuilt fome time fincc; and in October 1727, the workmen found feveral ancient coins, and a curious piece of Roman pavement in the gardens. This city has very little foreign trade : indeed, its fituation is fuch, that it will not admit of it, being two miles from Dell-quay, the neareft port where {hips can load and unload their cargoes. The citizens were fo fenfible of this, that an a£t of parliament was procured in the reign of James I. for making the river Lavant (which runs by the fouth walls of the town, and falls into a branch of the harbour near Dell-quay) navi- gable ; and part of the canal was actually cut, but, for fome reaion, now unknown, laid afide, and has not fince been refumed. There is, however, ftill a cuftom- houfe, with a collector, comptroller, and other officers, at Chichefter. In the year 1725, in digging a foundation for a houfe in the North-ftrect, there was discovered, pretty deep in the ground, a large 4 tone, fix feet long, and three broad, with the follrf.ving Roman infeription, which was fomething defaced by digging up the ftone, cut upon it : Neptuno et Alinerva Templum, pro falute (Lmus divina, ex aucloritate Tiberii C/audii, Cogidubni regis, hgati Angujli in Britannia, collegium fubrorurn, et qui in eo a facrisy vcl hanorati funt, de fuo dedicavtrunt ; donante aream Pudente Pudcntini filio. This temple Avas dedicated to Neptune and Muicm, for the fafety of the Imperial family, by the authority of Tiberius Claudiu*. It was erected by the college of artificers of king Cogidubuus, the lieutenant of Auguftus in Britain, and by thofe who officiated as priefts, or were honoured in it at their own cxpence ; the ground being given by Puden;, the fon of Pu- dentinus. This ftone was prefented to the late duke of Rich- mond, who placed it in a temple eredted on a mount in his garden at Goodwood, between the Itatues of Neptune and Minerva. A confiderable quantity of malt is made here, and much larger quantities of corn ground for exportation in the neighbourhood ; but the chief manufacture is nee- dles. Here is a free-fchool for forty-two boys, and a charity-fchool for twenty girls. Chichefter fends two citizens to parliament, has two weekly markets on Wednelday and Suturday, beiides a very large beaft-market every Wednefday fortnight, and five annual fairs, viz. the third of May, Whitfun Monday, and the fifth of Auguft, for- hories and black cattle; the tenth of October, for black cattle, toy.s, and hiring fervants ; and the twentieth of October, for horfes, fheep, and black cattle. Near the North-gate, within the walls of the city, was a houfe of Grey-friars, founded in the time of Henry III. It is now a very genteel feat, and belonged, when we vifited Chichefter, to Hutchens Williams, Efq; Near the Eaft-gate was a monaftery of Black- friars, faid to have been founded by queen Eleanor, wife of Edward I. and dedicated to St. Mary and St. Vincent. It is now a gentleman's houfe. Here was alio an hofpital for lepers, founded in the reign of Richard I. It was dedicated to St. James and St. Mary Magdalen; and valued, upon the diflblution, at four pounds, fourteen {hillings and ten-pence per annum* On the north fide of the city is a large Roman camp, called the Brill. It is an oblong fquare, above half a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile in breadth. Its area is a flat plain, fituated on an eminence that com- mands the town, with a large rampart and fingle graft, and is generally thought to have been the firft camp oc- cupied by the emperor Vefpafian, afcer his arrival in Britain. On the lame fide of the city is another camp, called Gonfhill, which is alfo fuppofed to have been thrown up by the Romans, it being an oblong fquare. On the fummit of Rook's-hill, a lofty down about four miles to the north of Chichefter, is an ancient camp of a circular form, fomething n\ore than a quarter of a mile in diameter, fuppofed to have been thrown up by the Danes. About three miles to the north-eaft of Chichefter, is Goodwood, a feat belonging to his grace the duke of Richmond. It was the ancient feat of the earls of Northumberland, and in a very ruinous condition, till repaired by the late duke, who alfo built fome very pro- per offices, which are to correlpond with a manfion- houfe defigned by Colin Campbell, and publiftied in his Vitruvius Britannicus. The prefent edifice has an eafy defcent towards the eaft, fouth, and fouth eaft, with the profpect of a rich and beautiful landfcape, bounded by the fea for thirty miles in length. The Iile of Wight terminates the fouth-weft profpect, and the famous Rook's-hill covers it from the winds of the north. The late duke erected a room on a riling ground at the upper fide of the park, from whence there is a view of the country for many miles, and a noble profpect of the fea, together with the harbours of Portfmouth and Spithead. In this room his grace frequently entertained his company at dinner, there being a good kitchen builf near it, with many other conveniencies ; a very pretty garden, flored with a great variety of curious plants and flowers furrounding each fide of the room. About a mile to the eaft of Goodwood is a feat called Halnakcr, belonging to the late countefs dowager of Derby, and was formerly in poireffion of the Delawar family. The ancient part of the houfe is the remains of • a caftle ; but the other part, which is modern, has a noble s u s SEX. rroble appearance. From the windows in the front is a fine profpedt of the lea. The park is fmall, but very beiutiful-, having been greatly improved by the late earl, who had here a very complete chemical laboratory. >, :.•; this feat is the village of Boxgrove, where Ro- bert le Haya, in the time of Henry I. founded an alien ;rri-,; v, •'•.•bordinate to the abbey of L'Eflay, in Nor- mandy. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and occupied by the order of St. Benedict. Its yearly re- venues, at the dilTohuion of religious houfes, amounted to one hundred and eighty-five pounds, nine millings and eight-pence. 'T he ruins of this monaftery are ftill vifible, and (he church is now the parifh-church. Here is a free-fchool, founded by the latecountefs of Derby. About four miles to the north-eaft of Halnaker, is a village called Charleton, remarkable for being the feat cf fox- hunters. Here are many fmall hunting-feats, built by perfons of quality, who rei'ide there during the feafon for fox-hunting ; but the moll beautiful of thefe houfes is that creeled by his grace the late duke of Richmond. Here is alfoa large room, called Fox-hall, defigned by the earl of Burlington, where the gentlemen fox-hunters dine together every day during their flay at Charleton. In the neighbourhood of this village is a foreft, which was formerly in the poffemon of the Lumley family ; but was fome years fince purchafed by the late duke of Richmond, who greatly improved the beauty of it, by making new plantations, and cutting fine walks through fcveral parts of it. Thefe walks all meet in the centre of the foreft, where there is an open plain, on which the duke ufed to caufe tents to be pitched for the entertain- ment of his friends. Having viewed, with great fatisfaction, thefe parts, we returned to Chichefter, and vifited Bofeham, a fmall fifhing-town about four miles from that city, in order to view the church, the only object worth attention. It was built in the reign of Henry 1. by William Ware- loft, bifhop of Exeter, who placed in it fome prebenda- ries. Afterwards, this church became a royal free cha- pel, exempted from the ordinary jurifdiction of the bi- fhop of Chichefter, and continued collegiate till the ge- neral diffolution. It is a large and handfome building, and the flails, with ancient carvings over them, are ftill in bein?-. It has alfo a very ancient monument, on which is a female figure, fuppofed to reprefent the daughter of king Canute, who was buried here. And fome years fince was found, by digging in this church, the head of a man in ftone, the fculpture of the hair and features being ftill vifible. It is twenty inches from the chin to the crown, and confequently the height of the ftatue, provided the proper proportions were ob- ferved, was near fifteen feet. It is not certainly known what this ftatue originally reprefented, but it is thought to have been one of rhe Saxon idols. Midhurft, the next place of note we vifited in this county, is a prettv large town, fituated near a branch of the river Avon, fifty-two miles from London. It is a borough by prefcription, governed by a bailiff chofen annually by a jury at the court-leet of the lord of the mancr. It has fent members to parliament ever fince the year 13 1 1, and the fourth of Edward II. It is very pleafantly fituated on a hill, at the foot of which runs the river above-mentioned- It fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Thurfday, and every fortnight, on the fame day, another for fat and lean cattle, fheep, hogs, &c. and two annual fairs, viz. Ladyday and Whitfunday, for horfes and toys. In the neighbourhood of this town is a beautiful feat called Cawdry, lately belonging to the vifcount Mon- tacute. It is fituated in a valley, encompafied with lawns, hills, and woods, thrown into a park, the river running at the fide, which renders the place very agree- able in fummer, but makes it dampifh in winter. The houfe is fquare, and at each corner is a Gothic tower, which have a very good effect, when viewed from the rifing grounds. The hall is cieled with Irifh oak, after the ancient manner. The walls are painted with archi- tecture by Roberti, the ftatues by Groupe, the ftaii- cafe by Pelegrini. The large parlour, or room at the end of the hall, is painted by Holbein, where that great artift has defcribed the exploits of Henry VIII. before Boloigne and Calais ; his landing at Portfmouth, his magnificent entry into' London, &c. In the other rooms are many excellent pictures of the anceftors of the family, and other hiftory paintings of Holbein, re- lating to their actions in war. The whole fuit of roonu are ftately^ well-furnifhed, and adorned with many paintings. In the picture-gallery are the twelve apoilles, as large as life ; and in another very neat gallery, wainfeotted with Norway oak, there are many whole- length pictures of the family in their proper habits. Here are alfo four hiftory-pieces, two of which are copies of Raphael's marriage of Cupid and Pfyche, be- fides feveral old religious and military paintings from Battel-abbey. The chapel is one of the fineft of its kind, adorned in a very magnificent manner. The park is very noble, having a great variety of grounds in it, and is well wooded with firs, pines, and other evergreens, which are grown to a large fize j and here are fome of the largeft chefnut trees perhaps in Eng- land. The vallies in the park are well fupplied with water, which keeps them in a conftant verdure. At Harting, about fix miles weft of Midhurft, was & houfe for lepers, founded by Henry Hoefe, and dedicated to St. John the Baptift. And at Durford, about a mile to the north of Harting, the fame Henry Hoefe founded an abbey of Premonftratenfian canons, in the year 1 169, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptift. In this monaftery there were twelve monks only at the difTolution, whofe revenues amounted to one hundred and eight pounds, thirteen fhillings and nine- pence per annum. . Petworth, the next place we vifited, is about feven miles to the eaft of Midhurft, and forty-fix miles from London. It is a large, populous, and well-built town, fituated on a fine dry afcent, in a healthy air. The church is fpacious, and in one of the vaults feveral of the Piercies, earls of Northumberland, are buried. The rectory of this church is faid to be worth feven hundred pounds a year. Here is a weekly market on Wednef- day, and two annual fairs, viz. Holy Thurfday, for black cattle, and the twentieth of November, for fheep and hogs. Here is the magnificent palace belonging to the late Algernoon, duke of Somerfet. It was the ancient feat of the Piercies, earls of Northumberland, and came into the Somerfet family by one of his grace's anceftors mar- rying the fole heirefs of the houfe of Piercy. The duke pulled down the ancient edifice, and on the fite of it erected the prefent ftructure, which is confidered as one of the fineft in England. It had the misfortune of being; almoft demolifhed by fire a few years after it was finifhed, but was foon effectually repaired. The front is of free-ftone, and adorned on the top with ftatues. The great ftairs and apartments are truly noble, well- contrived, and richly furnifhed. The bagnio and offices are very elegant, and there is one vault near four hun- dred feet in length. But the avenues to the front want fpace j and as the weft front, inftead of looking into the park or gardens, had nothing but the old ftables before it, the duke was obliged to pull down the old mews, the fineft of their kind in all the fouth of England, though, by this means, he only opened a profpect over the adjacent country. The error was now conipicuous, though too late to be corrected. Had the ftruclure been erected on the rifing ground near the north fide of the park, over-againft the north wing of the houfe, the fore front would have faced the town, and the back front the park ; whereas one of thefe advantages now lies on one angle, and the other oppofite to one of the wings of the houfe. It is, however, a noble pile of building, and by far the fineft in all this part of England. In the ar- mory, they fhew, among feveral other curiofities, a fword, faid to have belonged to the famous Hotfpur, and the date upon the blade feems to countenance the opinion. It is not fo unwieldy as other ancient fwords Ukially are. From Petworth we directed our courfe towards the fouth- weft, throu^.i a moft delightful country, inter- fperfed no S U S fpcrfed in a dunning manner, with woods, corn-fields, meadows, villages, and gentlemen's feats, till we reached Arundel, a very ancient town. Arundel is lituated in a valley or dale, on the banks of the river Arun, fifty-five miles from London. It is a borough by prefcription, having fent members to par- liament ever iince the thirtieth year of Edward I. and is fo ancient, as to be mentioned in king Alfred's will. It is governed, according to a charter of queen Eliza- beth, by a mayor, twelve burgcfTes, a fteward, and other officers. The mayor, who is chofen annually, is judge of the court-leet of the lord of the manor, which is held every three weeks : he appoints collectors of the package and ftallage, ale-conners and ale-tafters. No writ can be executed within this borough without his permiffion, and he has the authority of a juftice of the peace, though he feldom executes the office. The church is a large, ancient ftrudture, and had once a cell of four black canons, fubject to the monaftery at Seez in Normandy, and fuppofed to have been founded by Roger de Montgomery, earl of Arundel, in the reign of William the Conqueror ; but in the reign of Richard II. it was abolifhed, and the church made collegiate, and continued fo till the difTolution, when its revenues amounted to two hundred and fixty-three pounds, twelve fhillings and nine-pence per annum. There is now no- thing remarkable in this ftructure, except four old and ftately monuments of the earls of Arundel. In the time of Edward II. here was alfo an houfe of Black-friars ; and likewife an hofpital, founded about the eighteenth year of Richard II. by Richard earl of Arundel. It was dedicated to the Trinity, and en- dowed, at the fuppreffion, with yearly revenues amount- ing to eighty-nine pounds, five millings and two-pence. The town is pleafantly fituated at the foot of a hill, on the fummit of which is an ancient caftle, faid to be a mile in compafs, and to have been built very early in the Saxon times. It was conferred by William the Conqueror on Roger de Montgomery, who repaired it, and was created, by the above prince, earl of Arundel and Shrewfbury, but took his title from Arundel caftle, where he refided ; and his fucceffors long enjoyed it as a local dignity, together with the caftle ; but the title be- ing afterwards difputed, it was declared by act of par- liament, in the reign of Henry VI. that all perfons who had been, or fhould be pofiefled of the caftle and honour of Arundel, were, and mould be earls of the fame, without any other creation ; and accordingly the title, manor, and caftle, ftill continue infeparable. During the civil wars, the caftle being in pofleffion of the parliament forces, was taken for the king, after a fiegeof three days, by lord Hopton, and retaken by Sir William Waller, when the famous Chillingworth, who was an excellent engineer, as well as a great divine, ferved in the former capacity. Arundel fends two members to parliament, has a fub- ftantial wooden bridge over the river ; two weekly mar- kets on Wednefday and Saturday, and four annual fairs, viz. the fourteenth of May, for black cattle and hogs ; the twenty- firft of Auguft, for hogs, black cattle, and (heep ; the twenty-fifth of September, for black cattle and fheep ; and the feventeenth of December, for cattle and pedlars ware. At Tortington, near Arundel, lady Hadwifa Corbet, founded a priory of five or fix regular canons, fome time before the reign of king John, and dedicated it to St. Mary Magdalen. At the diflolution, its annual revenues amounted to feventy-five pounds, twelve millings and three-pence. At Lymifter, in the neighbourhood of Arundel, was fin alien priory of Benedictine nuns, a cell to the nun- nery of Almanefche in Normandy, founded before the year 1178, and dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen. At Hardum, a village fituated on the river Arun, north of Arundel, there was an ancient priory of black tanons, dedicated to the Holy Crofs; but the founder is now unknown. At Pynham, near Arundel, queen Adeliza, fecond wife to Henry I. founded a priory of black canons, de- dicated to St. Bartholomew: This was one of the fmall SEX. monafteries fupprefled by cardinal Wolfey, towards en- dowing his college at Oxford. Leaving Arundel, we continued our courfe to the eaftward, in order to vifit Shoreham ; and in our way parTed through Terring, a fmall market-town, fifty- three miles from London ; but has nothing worth men- tioning, except a charity-fchool, a fmall market on Sa- turday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fifth of April, and the fecond of October, for pedlars ware. New Shoreham is a borough-town, fituated near the mouth of the river Adur, fifty-five miles from London, and took its rife from Old Shoreham, now a village to the north of it. The mouth of this river was the an- cient Portus Adurni, whence large fhips ufed to go up as high as Bramber, two or three miles from the fea, till the navigation was choaked up with fand-banks. Here Ella the Saxon landed with fupplies from Ger- many, drove the Britons into the great wood, now called the Weald, and eftablifhed the kingdom of the South Saxons. New Shoreham is a borough by prefcription, having fent members to parliament ever fince the twenty-fixth of Edward I. and is governed by two conftables. Great part of the town has been wafhed away by the fea, but it is ftill a populous place, and has been lately very confiderably improved. Here is a cuftdm-houfe, with a collector and other officers to take care of the revenue, there being a good harbour for veflels of con- fiderable burden, and a tolerable trade. The parifh- church, which was formerly collegiate, was fome years fince thoroughly repaired and beautified at the expence of the inhabitants. Many fhips are built here, both for the navy and merchants fervice, which renders the place full of people, who are all generally employed. The fhip-wrights and fhip-chandlers, rope-makers, and other tradefmen depending on that bufinefs, feem to have fettled here chiefly on account of the prodigious quan- tity and cheapnefs of timber in the country behind them, which is in a manner covered with it; and the river, though not navigable for veflels, ferves to bring down the timber in floats from the adjacent woods. Here was formerly a priory of Carmelites, or White- friars, founded by Sir John Mawbray. New Shoreham fends two members to parliament, has a market on Saturday, and a yearly fair, on the twenty-fifth of July, for toys. Bramber is fituated on the river Adur, fifty-two miles from London. It is an ancient borough by prefcription, governed by a conftable chofen annually by a jury at the court-leet. It is feparated into two parts : the north part, which joins to Stening, confifts of poor mean buildings, and is half a mile diftant from the fouth di- vifion of the town, which is diftinguifhed by the name of Bramber-ftreet. From the year 1279 to 1472, it was joined with Stening in the writs for electing burgefles to parliament; but fince that time, each borough has had feparate elections : the cuftoms of both are, however, ftill the fame. On the north-weft of Bramber-ftreet are the remains of an old caftle, and fome of the walls, of a vaft thicknefs, are ftill ftanding. It is beautifully covered with ivy, and is a fine object viewed from the diftant hills. Here arc alfo the ruins of a bridge, and other public buildings, which fufficiently indicate, that Bram- ber was once in a more flourifhing condition than it is at prefent. Though this place fends two members to parliament, it has neither market nor fair. Here was an ancient hofpital dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and called Bidlington Spitel ; but its revenues were very inconfiderable, being valued, on the diflolution, at no more than twenty fhillings annum. Near Findon, five miles weft of Bramber, is an an- cient camp called Caefar's Hill, upon which the very fpot is pointed out where Caefar's tent ftood ; but the form of the camp being round, not quadrangular, as the Roman camps always were, it is generally believed that this was either a Britilh or a Danifh camp. Stening, or Steyning, is another fmall town adjoin- ing to Bramber. It has at prefent not above two hun- dred houfes, though it is faid to have been formerly a very large town, and even a county of itfelf. It is, however. s u s however, an ancient borough by prefcription, and go- verned by a. conftable, who is the returning officer at elections, and chofen annually at the court-leet of the lord of the manor. The town is fituated in a very fine air, and has a free grammar-fchool, founded about the middle of the laft century by Mr. Holland, a tradelrnan of this place. SteAiag was a place of feme note in the Saxon times, on account of a church or monaftery in which St. Cud- man was buried. Here was alfo a priory of Benedictine monks, founded by Edward theConfeffor, and dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen. William the Conqueror made it fubordinate to the abbey of the Trinity at Fefchamp in Normandy. Upon the diffolution of alien priories, it was given to the monaftery of Sion in Midd'.efex. This town fends two members to parliament has a weekly market on Wednefday, and on the fecond Wed - nefday in every month, for cattle ; befides two annual fairs, the firft held on the ninth of June, for cattle and pedlary ware; and the fecond, which is reckoned one of the greateft in Suflex, on the tenth of October, for feed-wheat, Welfh cattle, fheep, hogs, and horfes. At Seal, near Stening, William de Braiofa founded, in the year 1057, a convent of Benedictine monks, fub- ordinate to the foreign abbey of St. Florence at Salmur, but it was afterwards annexed to the college of St. Mary Magdalen in Oxford. Leaving the borough of Steyning, we continued our courfe to the northward, near the banks of the Adur, to Horfham ; and could not help admiring the vaft quantities of timber growing in this part of the county. The plains alfo, during the fummcr feafon, are covered with the moft beautiful verdure, and the roads remark- ably good, though in the winter almoft impaf- fable Horfham is one of the largeft towns in Suflex, fitu- ated near the eaftern fource of the Aruri, thirty-five miles from London. It has its name from Horfa, the brother of Hengift the Saxon, who refided here. It is a borough by prefcription, having fent members to par- liament ever fince the thirtieth year of the reign of Ed- ward I. and governed by two bailiffs chofen annually by a jury at the court-leet of the lord of the manor. The church is an elegant and fpacious building; and the hall, where the affiz.es for the county are often held, very commodious. Here is a well-endowed free- fchool, and in the neighbourhood a quarry of excellent itone. The county gaol is, alio here. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, viz. Monday before Whitfunday, and the eighteenth of July, both for fheep and lambs ; and the twenty-feventh of November, for cattle and pedlars ware. At Billinghurft, a little to the fouth-weft of Horfham, are noble remains of the famous military way made by the Romans, and called Stone-ftreet. From Horfham we paffed through the forefts of St Leonard and Worth, to Eaft Grinftead, fo called to diftinguifh it from another place called Weft Grinftead, fituated about ten miles from it in the rape of Bramber. It is fituated near the fource of the Medway, on the borders of Surry, twenty-nine miles from London; and is an ancient borough by prefcription, having fent mem- bers to parliament ever fince the firft year of the reign of Edward II. It is governed by a bailiff, chofen by a jury of burgage-holdeis at the court-leet of the lord of the manor." The members are elected by the burgage - holders, who do not exceed thirty-five in number, and returned by the bailiff. Here is an hofpital, built in the reign of James I. by Robert Sackville, earl of Dorfet, who endowed it with an annual revenue of three hun- dred and thirty pounds, for the maintenance of thirty- one poor perfons of this town. Ths county affizes are often held here ; but the road from London to Lewis and Brighthelmftone paffing through this town, is its prin- cipal i'upport. . Eaft Grinftead fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Thurfday, befides another held on the laft Tuefday of every month, for all forts of cattle ; and two annual fairs ; the firft is held on the eleventh 12 SEX, tit of June, for black cattle ; and the fecond on the eleventh of December, for cattle and pedlars ware. Leaving" Eaft Grinftead, we took the road to Bright- helmftone, paffing through a number of fmali towns and villages, but faw nothing remarkable, till we came to the top of the South -downs, from whence there is the molt extenfive and beautiful profpect that can be imagined; on onefide a beautiful country, finely variegated with meadows, corn-fields, and woods, interfperled with towns; villages, and gentlemen's feats ; and n the other, an unbounded view of the Britifh channel, rendered ftill more pleafing by the number of fhips and veflels paffing up and down that famous ftreight, and to and from the leveral harbours on the coaft. Brighthelmftone is fituated on a bay of the fea, fifty miles from London. It is a large, ancient, and popu- lous town, chiefly inhabited by fifhermen, who often go from hence to the fifhing-fair at Yarmouth, on the Nor- folk coaft, and hire themfelves for the feafon to catch herrings. The town is inclofed with a wall fourteen or fifteen feet high, in which are four gates built of free- ftone by queen Elizabeth, and fortified on the fide facing the fea by another wall, in which are port-holes for can- non. It has feven ftreets, and as many lanes j but the church is fituated without the town. Here are two pub- lic rooms, one of which is as elegant and convenient as moft of the kind in England. Here are alfo a free- fchool, and two confiderable charity-fchools, one for fifty boys, and the other for twenty girls. The town- hall, which has a dungeon under it, faces the fea. Be- fore it is the gun-garden, and in the walls of the ftruc- ture are feveral arched rooms, where the ftores are kept. The French have feveral times attempted to deftroy this town ; but its fituation being low, their cannon- balls generally went over it. But the place has fuffered greatly by inundations and encroachments from the fea, by which upwards of one hundred and thirty houfes have been deftroyed within the fpace of forty years ; and it is feared the whole town will in time be fwallowed up by the fea. The advantage of the fituation of Brighthelmftone, which is dry, healthy, and open, finely diverfified with hills and vallies, has, within thefe few years, occafioned a great refort of the principal gentry in the fouthem parts of England to this place, and engaged many of them to make it their fummer refidence ; but of late, Brighthelmftone is become the public refort of valetudi- narians, for bathing in the fea, the water of which, at this place, is faid to contain more fait than the fea-water of any other port in England. At the fame time, the bay, in which the town is fituated, is open, and expofed to the fea, free from ooze or filth of any kind ; and the beach is compofed of clean gravel and fand, and has a gradual defcent. A mineral fpring was alfo difcovered here fome years ago, the water of which began to be much drank on the fpot in the fummer of the year 1760. It is found to de- pofite an ocherous fediment ; and a courfe of it, judici- oufly varied, is fuppofed to reftore infirm habits* The trade of this town is but fmall, though the place is now in a very flourifhing condition, by the great re- fort of gentry to it during the fummer feafon. Many fmall barks are built here for the merchants of London, and thofe at other ports ; and prodigious flocks of fheep are fed on the neighbouring hills, the wool of which is faid to be the fineft in England. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, viz. Holy Thurfday, and the fourth of September, for pedlars ware. On the weft fide of this town, a great number of hu- man bones have been dug up ; and from this circum- ftance it is concluded that a battle was fought here. Many are of opinion, that Csefar, in one of his expedi- tions, landed at this place; and between Brighthelm- ftone are to be feen lines and intrenchments, which bear ftrong marks of their having been Roman works. In the neighbourhood of this town an urn was dug up fome time ago, containing a thoufand filver denarii, and fome of all the emperors, from Antoninus Pius to Philip : nor are the altars of the Druids to be feen in I i greater 122 S U S greater numbers any where than about Brighthelm- ilortc. Lewis, which we next vifited, ftands on the banks of the Oufe, firy or his family, and the darling of the learned world ; the moil lively pattern of virtue, and the bVave and worthy patron of his country. This feat and perfonage is cele- brated by W allcr. Had SacharuTa liv'd, when mortals made Choice of their deities, this facred fhade Had held an altar to her pow'r, that gave The peace and glory which thefe alleys have, Embroider 'd fo with flowers where flic flood, That it became a garden of a wocd : Her prefence has fuch more than human grace, That it can civilize the rudeft place : If fhe fit down, with tops all tow'rds her bow'd, They round about her into arbours crowd ; Or if fliewalk, in even ranks they fland, Like fome well-marfhall'd, and oblequious band. ------ The facred mark Of noble Sidney's birth ; v/here fuch benign, Such more than mortal-making flars did ihine j That there they cannot but for ever prove, The monument, and pledge of humble love. Somerhill, contiguous to Tunbiidge, is a noble feat, formerly the refidence of the earl of Clare, in a pleafant rural fituation. Bayhall, about two miles from the wells, in Pippcn parifii, the feat of Charles Amhurft, Efq; is very neat, though not large. Shipbourne, about two miles from Tunbridge, is thus defcribed by the poet, Next Shipbourne, tho' her precincts areconfin'd To narrow limits, yet can fliew a train Of village beauties, paftorally fweet. Smart's Hop-Garden. Here is alfo the feat of lord Vane. Mereworth, a fmall diftance from Farilawn, the re- fidence of lord Weftmoreland. It was anciently large and fpacious, like a caftle, belonging to the Nevels, lords of Abergavenny ; but the houfe is lately rebuilt in a very grand and magnificent manner, defigned by Collin Campbell, in imitation of a ftately edifice in Italy, built by the famous Paladio: it ftands on a fmall emi- nence, in a peninfula, moated round : behind it is an eminence that commands a glorious profpect of the houfe, fpacious and regular gardens, 'and of the country adjacent. Nor fhalt thou, Mereworth, remain unfung, Where noble Weftmoreland, his country's friend, Bids Britifh greatnefs love the filent fliade, Where piles fuberb, in claflic elegance Arife ; and all is Roman, like his heart. Smarts Hop-Gar den. Goudhurft, the next place we vifited, is fituated on the road from Tunbridge to Cranbrook, forty-eight miles from London. It has nothing remarkable but its church, which was fo impaired by a ftorm of thunder and lightning on the twenty-third of Auguft 1637, that it became neceflary to take down the fteeple, which was lofty, and built of ftone. A brief was granted to rebuild it ; but the fmall wooden fteeple which was erected in hafte on the top of the ftone-work, ftill continues. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and an annual fair on the twentv-fixth of April, for cattle. At Cumbwell, near Goudhurft, Robert de Turneham founded, in the reign of Henry II. a priory of the order of St. Auguftine. It was dedicated to St. Mary Mag- dalen, and confifted of a prior and fix canons. At the difTolution, the annual revenues amounted to eighty pounds, feventecn (hillings and fiye-pence. N T. About three miles from Goudhmft is Cranbrook, fituated in the woody part of the county, fixty miles from London. This place is f imous for being the fpot where the firft woollen m ami factory >n this kingdom was erected by fome Flemings, who were encouraged to fettle here, in older to teach the manufacture to the Eng- lifli. This trade has, however, long fincc deferted Cranbrook, which is now a place of very little account. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the thirtieth of May, and the twenty-ninth of September, for horfes and black cattle. About four miles fouth e,aft of Cranbrook, is a village called Newenden, fituated upon the river Rother. This, in the opinion of Camden, is the haven called, in the Notitia of Antoninus, Anderida, by the ancient Britons Caer Andred, and by the Saxons And red fea Are. The Romans, to defend this coalt againft the ravages of the Saxon pirates, placed here a band of the Abluci, under the count, or lord warden of the Saxon fhore, at which time it was a famous city, and continued to be the chief place of ftrength in this part of the county, till abo;:r the year 488, when the firft king of the South Saxons befieged and took it by ftorm irom the Britons, put them all to the fword, and razed the place to the ground. It was, however, rebuilt in the reign of Edward I. and was then, in refpect to the old town, and its fituation in a den or dale, called Newenden, or a new town in a valley. It has no market, but an annual fair is held here on the firft of July, for linen and toys. About fourteen miles north-eaft of Cranbrook, is Afhford, or Elhford, fituated on a fmall river called the iifh, over which there was here formerly a ford, fifty- feven miles from London. It is governed by a mavor, 2nd has a court of record every three weeks, for all actions of debt or damages not exceeding twenty merks. The church is large, and was formerly collegiate ; and here is a free grammar- fchool. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, befides which there is another held every Tuefday fortnight ; and two annual fairs, viz. the feventeenth of May, and the ninth of September, for horfes, black cattle, and pedlars ware. About four miles to the north-eaft of Afhford, is Wye. It ftands on the banks or the Stour, which is navigable hither for barges, h:ty-feven miles from London. Here is a good ftone-bridge over the Stour, and was formerly a royal manor, given to Battel-abbey by William the Conqueror; and Edward II. after the burial of his fa- ther, and before his coronation, kept his Chriftmas in the manor-houfe. The church, which was formerly collegiate, has been rebuilt iince the year 1 706, when the old one was almoft reduced to ruins by the fall of the tower. In the year 1431, John Kemp, then archbifhop of York, afterwards a cardinal and archbifhop of Canter- bury, began a college for a mafter or provoft, and feve- ral fecular canons. The ftructure was finiflied in 1447, dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin; and its reve- nues, at the fuppreffion, amounted to ninety pounds two {hillings per annum. Wye has a weekly market on Thurfday, and two an- nual fairs, viz. the twenty-fourth of March, and the fecond of November, for horfes, black cattle, and pedlars ware. Four miles to the north" of Wye, and near the river Stour, is a village called Chilham, fuppofed to be the place where Julius Casfar pitched his camp at his fecond expedition into Britain ; and to have been at firft called Jul-ham, or Julius's Station, of which the prefent name is thought to be a corruption. Near this place there is a green barrow, called Jul Laber, which is thought to be the grave of Luberius Dorus, the tribune, who was killed by the Britons in the march of the Romans from that camp. Lenham is a fmall market-town, fituated on the road leading from Canterbury to Maidftone. It ftands upon the river Len, forty-feven miles from London, but has nothing worth remarking, except a fmall weekly market on Tue/day, and two annual fairs, viz. the fixth of June, and the twenty-third of O&obef, for horfes, black eattle, and toys, The KENT. The parifh fhmch of Ulcomb, two miles and a half fouth-weft ot London, was made colligate for an arch- prefbyter and two canons, with one deacon, and one clerk, by Stephen Langton, archbiftiop (if Canterbury, about the year i2?o, at the requeft of Ralph de S. Leo- degario^ its patron. It was in being in the year 1293, but feems to have dropped afterwards, and the clmrch became, as it is now, a iingle undivided rectory. At Muttenden, fouth of Lengham, was a priory of triuitarian friars, founded by Sir Robert de Rokefly, about the year 1224, and dedicated to the Trinity. Up- on the fuppreffion it was endowed with annual revenues amounting tofi\ty pounds thirteen (hillings. We how palled through Maidfton, to Weft Mailing, a fmall inconfiderable town, twenty-nine miles from London. Gunluph, biftiop of Rochefter, founded here in the time of William the Conqueror, an abbey for nuns of the order of St. Benedict. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and its annual revenues, at the fup- preffion, amounted to two hundred and eighteen pounds four (hillings and two-pence. Here is ftill a free-fchool, a weekly market on Friday, and three annual fairs, viz. Auguft the twelfth, October the fecond, and November the feventeenth, for horfes, black cattle, and toys. At Weft Peckham, or Little Peckham, three miles from Weft Mailing, there was a preceptory belonging to the knights of St. John of Jei ufalem, valued, upon the diffolution, at fixty-three pounds fix (hillings and eight-pence per annum. This houie is faid to have been founded for the ufe of the Templars ; but on this diflb- lution in the firft of Edward II. it came with the reft of their lands to the hofpital. Wratham, or Wortham, the next place we vifited, is a fmall town twenty-five miles from London. It has nothing remarkable but its church, which is pretty large, and has fixteen ftalls, fuppofed to have been built for the clergy attending the archbiftiop of Canterbury, who had ii palace here, till Simon Iflfp, who filled that fee in the fourteenth century, pulled it down, and erected another at Maidfton with the materials. Here is a market on Tuefday, and an annual fair on the fourth of May, for horfes, bullocks, and toys. About feven miles from Wrotham, and twenty-three from London, is Sevcnoke, faid to have had its name from feven exceeding large and tall oaks that once ftood near this place. It is fituated in the road to Tunbridge and Rye, and is a corporation, governed by a warden and ;uTiftants. Here is an hofpital for maintaining poor old people, and a fchool for educating poor children, built and endowed by Sir William Sevenoke, who was lord mayor of London in 1418; and faid to have been a foundling, brought up by fome perfon of this town, whence he took his name. John Potkyn, who lived in the reign of Henry VIII. was a great benefactor to this fchool, and the revenue being augmented by queen Eli- zabeth, it was thence called queen Elizabeth's free- ichool. It was rebuilt in 1727, and the ftile of the cor- poration is the wardens and affiflants of the town end pa- rifli of Sevenoke, and of queen Elizabeth's freea-fchool there. This town has alfo a charity fchool for fifteen boys; befides the above hofpital, there is another ftill more ancient, dedicated to St. John the Baptift, in the gift of the archbiftiop of Canterbury. It was in this parifh that the rebel, Jack Cade, in the year 14.50, defeated and killed Sir Humphry Stafford, his brother William, and feveral other perfons of note, fent againfthim by Henry VI. Sevenoke has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. July ten, and October twelve, for hogs and toys Weftram, or Wefterham, is a fmall market-town, near the head of the Darcnt, twenty-three miles from Lon- don. It has nothing remarkable but a large houfe call- ed the Squerries, built by the late earl of Jerfey. Here is a weekly market on Friday, and an annual fair on the nineteenth of September, for bullocks, horfes, and toys. Gravefend, which we next vifited, is fituated on the Thames, oppofite to Tilbury Fort in Effex, and twenty- two miles from London, This town an-' Milton, a fmall I village a little to the eaft of Gravefend, were incorporat- ed in the tenth year of queen Elizabeth's reign, by the ftilecf the portrcve, jurats, an I inhabitants of Gravef- 1 end and Milton ; but the name of portreve is now changed into that of mayor. In the reign of Richard II. the French and Spaniards coming up the Thames, burnt and plundered the town, and carried away inoft of the people. To compenfate for this misfortune, the abbot of St. Mary le Grace on Tower- hill, to whom Richard II. had granted a manor belong- ing to Gravefend, called Parrock's, obtained a grant from the crown, that the inhabitants of this place and Milton (hould have the fole privilege of carrying paffengers by water from hence to London, at four- pence the whole fare, or two-pence a head, which was confirmed by Henry VIII. but now the fare is fix-pence a head in the tilt- boat, and one (hilling in the wherry. Coaches ply here at the coming in of the tilt-boats, to carry pafleno-ers to Rochefter. Henry VIII. built two platforms one at this town and the other at Milton : they are mounted with heavy can- non, and intended as a defence to the mouth of the Thames. In the year 1624, one Mr. Pinnock gave twenty-one dwelling-houfes here, befides one for a mafter-weaver, for the employment of the poor : and here is a charity - fchool for twenty boys, who are taught and cloathed. All outward bound (hips are obliged to anchor in the road before the town, till they have been vifited by the cuftom-houfe officers ; and for this purpofe a centinel at the block houfe gives notice when any (hip is coming down the river, by firing his mufket. But the home- ward bound all pafs by without notice, unlefs to receive tide-waiters on board, if they are not fupplied before. Moft of the outward bound (hips complete their cargoes, and take in provifions here, fo that the place is full of feamen, who appear always in a hurry. In the year 1727, the whole town of Gravefend, to- gether with its church was confirmed by fire : and the parliament in order to affift the inhabitants in rebuilding their town and church, granted five thoufand pounds by an act palled in 1731, and the church is accordingly confidered as one of the fifty new ones, then ordered to be built at the expence of the public. The town is large and populous, but the ftreets nar- row and dirty, and the buildings mean. In the eaft part of the town, are the remains of an old chapel, fup- pofed to have belonged to fome religious houfe formerly here ; but there are no veftiges of any edifice of that kind. The towns for feveral miles round Gravefend are fup- plied from hence with garden fluff, of which great quan- tities are alfo fent to London, where the afparagus of Gravefend is prefered to that of any other place. Gravefend has two weekly markets on Wednefday and Saturday; and two annual fairs, viz. April the twenty- third, and October the twenty-fourth, for horfes, black cattle, cloaths, toys, and many other forts of goods. In the neighbourhood of Gravefend are a great variety of romantic landfcapes. The hills axe wild, fteep, al- moft covered with wood, and rife into bold variations, between the breaks of which vaft profpects of the valley beneath, and of the Thames winding through it, are every now and then feen ; and from the tops of fome of them very extenfive profpects of the whole country at large. Leaving Gravefend, we took the road to Dartford, and in our way paffed by Swanfcomb, a village about two miles from Gravefend, and fo called from its hav- ing been a camp of Swain king of Denmark. This place is alfo remarkable for being the fpot where the Kentilh-men, after furprifing William the Conqueror, by covering their approach to his army with green boughs, bravely offered him battle, unlefs he confented to confirm their ancient privileges, which he very pru- dently chofe to do. Dartford, or Darentford, fo called from its fituation on the Darent, which runs through the town, is a hand- fome and populous place, fixteen miles from London. It (lands on the road leading from London to Canterbury and & E N T. and Dover, and has feveral good inns. The river Da- Tcnt is navigable forbarges to this town from theThames. The church, which is large, and dedicated to the Tri- nity, has two church-yards, one round the edifice, and the other without the town, on the top of a hill, whicn is fo high, that it overlooks the tower of the church. About the year 1 355 j Edward III. founded and en- dowed a celebrated nunnery in this town, and dedicated it to St. Mary and St. Margaret. The priorefs and nuns Were firft of the order of St. Auguftine, then of St. Do- minic, and aftervVards of St. Auguftine again. At the dilTolution, they were a fecond time of the order of St. Dominic, but under the government of black friars fettled at Langley in Hertfordfhire. It was endowed at the fuppreflion with yearly revenues amounting to three hundred and eighty pounds nine fhillings. Here is a very large weekly market, chiefly for corn* which is frequented from many parts of the county ; and an annual fair on the fecond of Auguft, for horfes and bullocks. Two miles to the weft of Dartford is Cray ford, fo called from its fituation on a fmall fiver called the Cray, over which there was formerly a ford. It is an obfeure town, and has nothing worth remarking, except a fmall market on Tuefday. But on the heath, and in the fields near the place, are feveral caverns, from ten to twenty fathoms deep, nar- row at the top, and wide at the bottom. Some think they were dug by the ancient Britons, and ufed by them as granaries for fecuring their corn ; but others fuppofe they wefe made by the Saxons, as receptacles for their wives, children, and effects, when they were at war with the Britons. A little to the fouthward of Crayford, is a fmall place called Foot's Cray, remarkable for the elegant feat of Bouchier Cleeve, Efq; and called Foot's Cray-pl?ce. It was built by himfelf after a defign of Palladio of the Ionic oV.cr, and is very elegant. The gallery which extends the whole length of the north front of the houfe, is a very grand room, and is filled with pictures by the moft eminent matters ; there are feveral other good pieces in the dining room and parlour^ of all which the following is an exact lift. Common Parlour-. Seven fea pieces. Vandevelde. A fmall Dutch kitchen. Calf. Landfcape. Wynants. Mocking Chrift. Baffano. View of the Rialto. Mariefchi. View of St. Mark's palace, and a bull-feaft at Venice. Caiieletti and Chimeroli. Moon light Vandeneer. Emblematical picture. Gulio Carpioni. Landfcape under it, by Glauber; figures by Lairefle. Doge's palace. Carlovarin. A fea port and market in Holland. Wynix. Landfcape by Glauber — Figures by Lairefle. A fmith's fhop. Old Wyke. Oval landfcape. Lambert. Gallery JfeJ End. Landfcape morning. Claude Lorrain, Ditto evening. Ditto. Venus and Cupid. Vandyke. Landfcape. Both. North Front. Adoration of the fhepherds. Old Coloni. Temple of the Mufes. Romanelli Sufanna and the elders. Guercino. W olf and dogs, by Sayders ; the landfeapej by Ru- bens. Flower piece. VanHuyfum. Abraham and Hagar. Rembrandt. Landfcape. Paul Potter. Jacob with his flocks. Rofa Tivoli, Landfcape. Gafpar Pouflin. Fruit piece. De Heem. French king on horfeback. Vandermulen, Three horfei mounted. Van Dyke. Eaft Fnd. Judgment of Paris: Guifeppc Chun. Landfcape. Hobima. Paradife. Tempefta. Landscape, by Paul Brill; figures Annibal Caracci, South Side. Lapithae and Centaurs. L. Giordano. Landfcape. Wouverman; Country wake. Teniers. Landfcape. Wouverrrian. View of Venice. Canaletti. Holy family. Rubens. Madona. Carlo Dolci. Chrift blefling St. Francis. Annibal Caracch Dead Chrift. Ditto Smith's forge. Brouwer. Cat and boys. Old Mieris. Dead game and figures. Snyders and Rubensi Heraclitus and Democritus. ' Rembrandt. Sea piece. Vandevelde. Boy and gOat. Vanderborch, : A view of the Rhone. Teniers; Cattle. Adrian Vaudevelde* Circumcifion. Paul Veronefe. View in Venice. Canaletti. Venus and Adonis. Rubens. A Dutch lover; Jan Stein. A view near Harlem. Ryfdale. Prefentation of Chrift. Rembrandt. Miraculous draught of fifties. Teniers, Jan Steen playing on a violin. Himfelf, Head. Hans Holbein. Toilette. Metzu.. Drawing Room. Temple of Delphi. Pietro da Cortona. A Retreat. Bourgognone. Woman taken in adultery. Pordenoni- Dead game. Fyt. Field of battle. Bourgognofie. Diogenes. Salvator Rofa. Landfcape. Gafpar Pruflin. Dutchman. Le Duck. Boors drinking. Oftade. Landfcape. Gafpar Pouflin. Boys at cards. Morellio. Faith, Hope, and Charity. Lorhetto di Verona; Infide of a church at Antwerp, De Neef; figures, Old" Franks. Portrait. Rembrandt. Magdalen. Francifco Mola. Demoeritus, in the pofture Hippocrates found him in near Abdera. Salvator Rofa. Admittance to fee the houfe is by tickets from Mr. Cleeve, every Thurfday during the fummer. About four miles to the fouthward of Foot's Cray is St. Mafy's Gray^ a fmall town near the fource of the Cray, and twelve miles from London. It is a place of no note, and remarkable only for a charity-fchool, a weekly market on Wednefday, and a yearly fair on the thirteenth of February. Bromley, the next place we vifited, is a fmall town fituated on the road to Tunbridge, ten miles from Lon- don. The church is pretty large, and decorated with a fquare tower. The bifhop of Rochefter is rector of this parifli, and that prelate has a palace in the neigh- bourhood, where there is a mineral fpring, the waters of which have been found, from a chemical analyfis, to contain the fame qualities of the Tunbridge water, but in a greater degree. Here is a college, which was erected and endowed by biftiop Warner, in the reign of Charles II. for twenty widows of poor clergymen, with an allow- ance of twenty pounds a year to each, and fifty pounds a year to a chaplain. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, viz. the third of February, and the fifth of Au- guft, for horfes, bullocks, fheep, and hogs. Eltham lies about four miles from Bromley, and feven from London. It was formerly a royal palace, where many of our monarchs often refided, particularly Ed- ward II. whofe queen was delivered of a fon here, thence thence cal-'ed John of Eltham. The place was much improved by his fuccefibr, and the ftatutes by which the royal houfhold is ftill governed, were compiled here. There are now very few, if any veftiges of the palace remaining; but it is a pleafant town, and full of good houfes, many of whi#h are inhabited by merchants. Here are two charity-fchools for twenty boys and ten girls, all of which are taught and cloathed. The mar- ket is held on Monday ; befidcs which, there are four annual fairs, viz. Palm-Monday, Eafter- Monday, Whit- fun-Monday, and the tenth of October, for horfes, cattle, and toys. Leaving Eltham, we croffed Black-heath, in order to vifit Woolwich, and flopped at the fine feat belonging to Sir Gregory Page, Bart. It is a noble building, v/ith two handfome fronts ; that to the fouth is ornamented with an Ionic portico. The hall is a very elegant room, adorned with handfome pillars, and other ornaments in a juft tafte. Out of it, on the left hand, you enter the dining-room, well proportioned, with a fmall recefs for the fide-board. The fitting up, rich carving and gild- ing, on a white ground ; chimney-piece of white marble, polifhed, and very beautiful. It opens into the gallery, which is fixty feet long, twenty broad, and twenty high, hung with crimfon; ceiling, cornice, door- cafes, and all the ornaments exceedingly elegant gilt carving, on white grounds. In this room are the following pictures. Judgment of Solomon, painted in a very pleafing ftile ; the figures and group fine ; but the diffufion of the light very incorrect. The expreflion of it acrofs the child on the floor is good ; but from whence comes it ? It is by no means in unifon with the reft. By Battoni. Adam and Eve, and Stratonice, two pieces : the fe- male figures are uncommonly foft, delicate, and elegant ; the expreflion of the naked is very brilliant, and vaftly pleafing. Peter VanderwerfF. A poulterer's (hop, and a fifhrr.onger's ditto, its com- panion. Very minute expreflion, highly finifhed : the exact imitation of the bafket will make you fmije with pleafure. Meiris. Juno and.Ixion. Rubens. Rubens and his miftrefs. David and Abigail. Thefe pieces, which are fine, are in his general ftile, the females capitally plump, but in my opinion they are not of a linking expreflion. A fruit and fowl-piece by Snyders, the figures of this mafter : Snyders's fhare in this piece feems to be much fuperior to Rubens'. The clofe and lively imitation of nature in the fruit and fowls is very fine. Landfcape with cattle. The angels appearing to the (hepherds. Dark, coarfe, and unpleafing; they totally want that brilliancy of colouring, which is often met with in this mafter's pieces. Baffin. Next we entered the drawing-room, twenty-five feet by twenty, ornamented in a very rich and elegant tafte ; the chimney-piece very handfome. It is adorned with twelve pictures, containing the hiftory of Cupid and Pfyche, by Juca Giordano, very fine. Out of this you go into the faloon, thirty-five by twenty-five, the chimney-piece of which is exquifitely elegant ; the door-cafes and all the ornaments beautiful ; the flabs very fine, and the pier-glafl.es large. The principal pictures are, The Good Samaritan, by Baldelochi, an unpleafing piece. Return of the Prodigal fon : a dark, unpleafing pic- ture; the attitude of the fon is difgufting and inex- preflive. Calabrere. The drefling-room is very beautifully ornamented, and contains a moft capital collection of pictures • parti- cularly twelve pieces by the Chev. VanderwerfF, which are worthy of a month's inceflant admiration. The fdbjects are as follows : Shepherds and Shepherdeffes Dancing. The attitudes of thefe figures are inimitable, and fketched with much more grace than might be expected from a painter who finifhed fo exquifitely. The colouring of the naked, the foft and delicate expreflion of the roundnefs of the jbreaft and limbs, and the wonderful brilliancy of the H whole p ; ece, which is firfifhed to an aftonifliing degree of elegance, are all inimitable. The Roman Charity. Very elegant ; the naked of the woman fine. Venus and Cupid. Beyond all imagination elegantly pleafing; the naked body of Venus is more beautiful than one could have thought the power of colours could have reached. The foftnefs is fuch, that the flefh feem^ as if it would yield to the touch ; and the harmony of the colouring fo bewitching, that a more tempting deli- cious figure cannot be conceived : the general brilliancy is very capital, nor can any piece be in higher prefcr- vation. Jofeph and Potiphar's Wife. Never painter was more, happy in the choice of his fubjects ; for fure the differ- ence between naked women in the age of pleafure, and the martyrdom of faints, form a contraft fufficient.lv de- cifive. Potiphar's wife is exquifitely painted. King Zeleucus giving his kingdom to his fon, Ex- tremely fine. Bethfheba bathing. Exquifitely done. The Choice of Hercules. The figure of Vice is made in this picture (as it is in the works of the poets) much the moft tempting lady ; fhe is inimitably foft and delicate. Mary Magdalen reading in a grotto. Aftonilhingly executed ; the attitude, colouring, foftnefs of expreflion beyond all defcription. We remarked particularly the plaits of the flefh, occafioned by her leaning forwards, under her left breaft, amazing ! the feet alfo prodigioufly fine. Meffage from the Angels to the Shepherds. Very fine. The light comes all from the angel, who is in a pofition not advantageous for diffufing it agreeably. Our Saviour and Mary Magdalen. Fmifhed like the reft in a furprifing manner. There appears an unnatural twift in her thigh and leg. Chev. VanderwerfF, his wife anc ^tighter. Very fine. This is a very flight fketch of the furprifing excellen- cies of thefe pictures. No one can view this houfe with* out regretting the want of a day to view each piece in, I do not remember having feen any thing in the fame ftile nearly equal to them but lord Orford's David and Abifhag, by the fame mafter, In this room arelikewife four exceeding fine pieces of Fruits and Flowers, by Van Huyfum ; thofe containing the grapes are beyond all defcription exquifite, the in- fects, drops of water, and the cores of the fruit appear* ing through the fkin, are wonderfully fine. A Landfcape. The trees, and the exprefRon pf the light through their branches, exceeding fine. Next we entered the crimfon bed-chamber, which is very handfomely ornamented, The bed is placed in a part feparated from the reft of the room by pillars, j he dimenfions thirty by fixteen. This room opens into the library, forty-five by twenty; the pillars are; handfome, but divide the room not in an agreeable manner. I fhould further remark, that the particulars of the fitting up and furnifljing, not mentioned in the pre- ceding account, are very handfome and elegant, The rooms are hung with crimfon, and green filks and da- mafks ; and the cornices, ceilings, door-cafes, flab, fofa, and chairrframes, all carved and gilt in a good tafte. The chimney-pieces are all very beautiful, being of white marble polifhed, and fome of them elegantly decorated with wreaths and feftoons of wrought marble, Moft of the flabs are very fine, of various marbles, There is a very beautiful collection of ornamental Drefden and Chelfea porcellane, fcattered about the houfe. Black-heath is faid to have its name from the colour of the foil. It is an extenfive plain ; and here Wat Tyler, the famous rebel in the reign of Richard II. is faid to have muftered near an hundred thoufand men. On this heath is an eminence called Shooter's-hill, from whence there is a moft extenfive and beautiful profpe^t. Upon the top of this hill is a fpring, which conftantly overflows, and is never frozen in the fevereft winters. Some ^ime fince, a plan was formed for build- P p w>4 146 K E ing a fuperb tov.*:i on mis hill,- and fome of the houfbs actually finifhed ; hut the defign was laid afidej on ac- count, as it was faid, of the ground being fo full of iprings, that no cellars could be formed, nor the foun- dations fecurely laid. Woolwich is fituated on the fouthern bank of the Thames, nine miles from London. Here is a royal dock, the o'.dcft in the kingdom, for building fhips of war ; and alfo a gun-yard, called the Warren. In the former more fhips have been built than in any other two docks in the kingdom ; and in the latter, artillery of all kinds a^nd dimenfions are caft ; and here the company of matrofles are employed in making up cartridges, and in charging bombs, carcafes, and grenadoes, for the public fervice. Here are many yards of warehouses, and ma- gazines of military and naval ftores ; and an academy has been lately efbblifhed here, for teaching the military lciences, and whatever elfe relates to the attack and de- fence of fortified places. A guardfhip is generally (rationed in the river before the dock-yard, where the water is fo deep, that the largeft fhips may fafely ride without touching the ground, even at low water. The town has been, of late years, eonfiderably enlarged, and the parifii-church rebuilt in a very handfome manner, as one of the fifty new churches. Here is a weekly market on Friday, but no annual fair. In the year 1236, the marfhes near Woolwich were overflowed by a fudden rife of the Thames, in fuch a manner, that many of the inhabitants perifhed, together with vaft numbers of cattle ; and in the reign of king James I. another inundation happened, by which many acres of meadow-land were laid under water, and have never been recovered. Leaving Woolwich, we continued our tour towards Greenwich; and in our way, patted through Charton, a very pleafant village, on the edge of Black-heath, remarkable for a fair held on St. Luke's day, called Horn-fair, the only one of its kind in England. It confifts of a fro- lickfome mob, who, after a printed fummons difperfed through the feveral towns and country around, meet at a place called Cuckold's Point, near Deptford, whence they march in proceflion through that town and Green- wich, to Charlton, with horns of various kinds upon their heads. This afl'embly ufed formerly to be infamous for rudenefs and indecency, but is now kept in tolerable order by conffables, who are ordered to attend : a fermon is alfo preached at the church of Charlton on the fair- day. We have no account of the origin of this whim- fical fair but by tradition, which fays, that king John, or fome ether of our kings, who had a palace at Eltham, in the neighbourhood, having been out a-hunting, rambled from his company to this little hamlet, took a liking to the mi fire fs of a cottage, whom he found a- lone ; and having prevailed over her modefty, the huf- band furprifed them together; and vowing to kill them both, the king was obliged to difcover himfelf; and to compound for their fafety by a prefent of a purfe of gold, and a grant of the land from this place to that now called Cuckold's Point, befides making him maffer of the whole hamlet. It is added, that in memory of this grant, and the occafion of it, the hufband eftablifhed a fair here for the fale of horns, and all forts of goods made bf horn, which are {till the chief articles fold at this fair. Gteeriwicb was originally named Green-wic, which 13 fy. nonimous with Green Creek, wic being the Saxon term for the creek of a river. It ftands upon the river Thames, at the difiance of fix miles from London, is a very populous town, and reckoned one of the genteeleft and pleafanteft in England, many of its inhabitants be- ing pcrfons of rank and fortune ; and its parifh-church, which was lately rebuilt, and dedicated to St. Alphage, "is a very handfome ftructure. There was a royal palace formerly in this town, which was firft erected by Humphrey, duke of Glou- Cefter, who called it Placerttia. It was enlarged by Henry VII. and completed by his fon, Henry VIII. •who was fo delighted with its fituation, that he fre- iivieniily refided here. Queen Mary and queen Elizabeth N t. were born in j'v", and king Edward VI. died in it; but being afterwards much neglected, king Charles II. pulled it down, and began another, cf which he lived to fee the weft wi.ng magnificently finifhed, at the expence of thirty-fix thou fend pounds. This wing, together with nine acres of ground belonging rt> it, king William, in the year 1694., appropriated for a royal hofpital for aged and di fabled feamen, the widows and children of fuch as loft their lives in the fervice of the crown, and for the encouragement of navigation. The other wing was be- gun in the reign of king William, carried on in the reigns of queen Anne and king George I. and that, to- gether with the reft of the building, was finifhed in the jeign of king George II. Such are the noble fyfnmetry, architecture, and decorations, and fuch the charming fituation, and ample endowment of this fpacious and fumptuous edifice, that there is fcarce fuch a foundation and fabric in the whole world. Its hall, which is very fuperb, was finely painted by the late Sir James Thorn- hill. At the upper end of it, in an alcove, are portraits of the late princefs Sophia, king George I. king George II. the late queen Caroline, the late queen of Pruffia, the late prince of Wales, the duke of Cumber- land, and his five royal f Iters. On the ceiling, above the alcove, are queen Anne and prince George of Den- mark ; and on the ceiling of the hall are king William and queen Mary, with feveral fine emblematical figures'. On a pedeftal, in the middle of the area, fronting a noble terrace by. the Thames, is a fine ftatue of king George II. The chapel is very fine, the proportion exceedingly beautiful, and forms one of the fineft rooms in England* It is one hundred feet long, fifty broad, and fifty high : the ornaments are all white and gold ; the cornice very elegant, and the ceiling of the altar truly beautiful : the organ alfo is fine. It is obfervable, that though a gal- lery, in the flile of a fhelf, runs on each fide the room, yet it has not an heavy effect, which muft refult from a particular harmony of proportion. Nothing of this fort can be added to a room, without hurting the general effect ; but in this the mifchief is lefs than perhaps any where befides. The little ceiling-piece of the altar, done by Mr. Brown, reprefenting cherubims, is elegant, and perhaps worthy the pencil of Albano himfelf. In the year 1705, was the firft admiffion of one hun-t dred difebled feamen into this hofpital, but the number now is near two thoufand men, and one hundred boys. To every hundred penfioners are allowed five nurfes, being the widows of feamen, 2t ten pounds a year, and two fhillings a week more to thofe who attend in the in- firmary. The penfioners are cloathed in blue, with brafs buttons, are allowed ftockings, fhoes, and linen ; and befides their commons, have one milling a week to fpend, and the common warrant officers one fhilling and fixpence. The hofpital is governed by a governor, a lieutenant-governor, and other officers. King William gave two thoufand pounds a year to- wards finifhing the buildings. The feveral benefactions DO to this noble charity, which appear upon tables, hung up at the entrance of the hall, amount to fifty-eight thoufand two hundred and nine pounds ; and in the year 1732, the late carl of Derwentwater's forfeited eftate, amounting to near fix thoufand pounds a year, was given to it by parliament. A market was appointed in the town of Greenwich in 1 737, the direction of which is in the governors of the royal hofpital, to which the pro- fits that arife from it are to be appropriated. There is alfo a handfome college in this town, front- ing the river Thames, for the maintenance of twenty decayed old houfe-keepers, twelve out of Greenwich, and eight to be prefented alternately from Caftlerifmg, a confiderable market-town in Norfolk, and Bungey, a market-town in Suffolk. The penfioners, befides vic- tuals and drink, are allowed eighteen pence a week for neceffaries, with a gown every year, linen in two years, and hats once in four years. They have alfo two acres of garden, and a chapel, where prayers are read twice a day, and they are under the government and care of a warden, butler, cook, and matron. This is called the Duke of Norfolk's college, but was founded and en- • dowed. K. E dowcd i» 1613 by Henry earl oF Northampton, by the name of Trinity Hofpital, and by hirn committed to the care of the mercers company of London. Mr. Lambard, author of the Perambulation of Kent, alfo built an hofpital here in 1560, called Queen Eliza- beth's College, in which twenty poor pcrfons are main- tained. This is faid to be the firit hoipital built by an Englifh proteftant. There are in this town two charity-fchools ; one built by Sir William Boreman, knight, for twenty boys, and endowed with four hundred pounds a year, in truft to the drapers company of London; the other built by Mr. John Roan', who left an eftate of ninety-five pounds a year, in truft with the vicar, church-wardens, and overfeers of this parifh, for te idling twenty-eight boys, and allowing forty fhillings a year for their cloaths. Here is a noble and moft delightful park, enlarged, planted, and walled round by king Charles II. It is well ftocked with deer, and has perhaps as much va- riety, in proportion to its fize, as any in the kingdom; but the views from the obfervatory and one tree hill, are beautiful beyond imagination, particularly the former. The projection of thefe hills is fo bold, that you do not look down upon a gradual falling flope, or flat inclo- fures, but at once upon the tops of branching trees, growing in knots and clumps out of deep hollows and dells : the cattle feeding on the lawns, which appear in breaks among them, feem moving in a region of fairy land. A thoufand natural openings among the branches of the trees, break upon little pidturefque views of the fwelling turf, which, when illuminated by the fun, have an effect more pleafing than the power of fancy can exhibit. This is the fore-ground of the landfcape. A little further, the eye falls on that noble ftructure the hofpital, in the midft of an amphitheatre of wood. Then the two reaches of the river make that beautiful ierpentine which forms the Ifle of Dogs, and prefents the floating millions of the Thames. To the left ap- pears a fi'ie tract of country leading to the capital, which there finifhes the profpecl. On the top of a fteep hill, in this park, Humphrey, duke of Gloucefter, began a tower, which was finifhed by king Henry VII. but afterwards demolifhed, and a royal obfervatory erected in its place by king Charles II. furnifhed with all forts of mathematical inltruments for aftronomical obfervations, befides a deep dry well for obferving the ftars in the day-time. This place was lucceffively the refidence of thofe celebrated aftronomers, Mr. Flamftead, Dr. Halley, and Dr. Bradley. From Mr. Flamftead this obfervatory took the name of Flam- ftead Houfe, by which it is now commonly known, and is at prefent in pofTeflion of Mr. Mafkelyne, as aftrono- mer to his majefty. There is ftill a royal palace in this town, but it is a fmall building, and is converted into apartments for the governor of the royal hofpital, and the ranger of Green- wich Park. This town of Greenwich is the chief har- bour for the king's yachts. Here was formerly an alien priory of friars Minorites, belonging to Gaunt, till the fuppreffion of foreign mo- nafteries, when the houfe was given to the abbey of Shene, in Surry. Greenwich has two weekly markets, held on Wed- nefday and Saturday ; but no annual fair ; though there are two on the neighbouring heath, viz. the twelfth of May, and the eleventh of October. In a field, called Great Stone Field, on the fouth fide of Greenwich, and on the fide of Black-heath, is an hofpital called Mordaunt's College, built by Sir John Mo; daunt, Bart, a 'JTurkey merchant. It is a fpacious ftructure, and intended for the reception of decayed merchants. The number of penfioners is not limited, but the buildings and endowments will admit of forty. Seven Turkey merchants have the direction and vifita- tion of this hofpital, as well as the nomination of the penfioners, each of whom muff, produce a certificate of his being above fixty years of age, before he can be ad- mitted : each has fifteen pounds a year. The chapel is very neatly wainfeotted, and has a curious altar-piece : the founder was buried under the communion-table. ,N T. 147 The trcafurer has forty pounds a year ; and the chaplain, who reads prayers twice every day, and preaches twice every Sunday, has fixty pounds. About a mile weft of Greenwich, and on the river Thames, is Deptford, fo called ftom the deepnefs of the ford over the river Ravenfbourn, before a bridge was erected over that ftream. This town, though it has no marjeet, is a v:ry populous place, and divided into two parts, called the Upper and Lower Town. It has alfo two churches, the neweft of which was one of the fifty new churches creeled by the cornmifiioners, purfuant to an act of parliament palled in the reign of queen Anne. But what renders Deptford famous, is its royal dock, conftrucled above two hundred years fincc. Here are alfo ftore-houfes of every kind ; one of which, namely, the Victualling Office, built in 1745, was, by accident, burnt down in January 1748-9, and a great quantity of provifions and other ftores confumed. This building was intended to fupply the place of the Old Victualling- office on Tower-hill, the leafe of which was then ai- moft expired. In this town are two hofpitals belonging to what is called the Trinity-houfe of Deptford Strond. The buildings were erected at two different times, and the old part contains twenty-one houfes, and the new thirty-eight. The latter is much the finer edifice, and has large gardens, well kept, belonging to it. But notwithftanding this, the other has the preference, o$j account of its antiqnity, and the meetings of the cor- poration of Trinity-houfe, which they are obliged, by their charter, to hold there at certain times. Both thefe houfes are intended for decayed pilots, mafters of fhips, or their widows. The men are allowed twenty fhillings, and the women fixteen fhillings a month. The fociety of Trinity-houfe was founded in the year 1515, by Sir Thomas Spert, Knt. commander of the great fhip Henry Grace de Dieu, and comptroller of the navy to Henry VIII. for the regulation of feamen, and the convenience of fhips and mariners on our coaft, and incorporated by the above-mentioned prince, who confirmed to them not only the ancient rights and privi- leges of the company of mariners of England, but their feveral poffeffions at Deptford ; which, together with the grants of queen Elizabeth and king Charles II. were alfo confirmed by letters patent of the firft of James II. in 16S5, by the name of " The Mafter, Wardens, and Affiftants of the Guild or Fraternity of the moft glorious and undivided Trinity, and of St. Clement, in the pa- rifh of Deptford Strond, in the county of Kent." This corporation is governed by a mailer, four war- dens, eight affiftants, and eighteen elder brethren ; but the inferior members of the fraternity, named Younger Brethren, are of an unlimited number, for every mafter or mate expert in navigation, may be admitted as fuch; and thefe ferve as a continual nurfery to fupply the va- cancies among the elder brethren, when removed by death, or otherwife. The mafter, wardens, affiftants, and elder brethren, are by charter inverted with the following powers : 1. That of examining the mathematical .children oLr Chrift's. Hofpital. 2. The examination of the mafters of his majefty's fhips ; the appointing pilots to .conduct fhips in and out of the river Thames ; and the amercing all fuch asfhall prefume to act as mafter of a fhip of war or pilot, with- out their approbation, in a pecuniary mulct of twentv fhillings. 3. The fettling the feveral rates of pilotage, and erecting light-houfes, and other fea-marks upon the feveral coalts of the kingdom, for the fecurity of navi- gation ; to which light houfes all fhips pay one half- penny a tun. 4. The granting licences to poor feamen, not free of the city, to row on the river Thames for their fupport, in the intervals of fea-fervice, or when paft going to fea. 5. The preventing of aliens from ferving on board Englifh fhips, without their licence, upon the penalty of five pounds for each offence. 6. The punifhing of feamen for defertion or mutiny, in the merchants fervice. 7. The \ K £ n r. - 7. The hearing and determining the complaints of officers and teamen in the merchants fervice; but (ub- ject to an appeal to the lords of the admiralty, or the judge of the court of admiralty. To this company belongs the ballaft office, for clear- ing and deepening the river Thames, by taking from thence a fufficient quantity of baUalt, for the fupply of all fhips that fail out of that river ; in vvhicn fervice fixry barges, with two men in each, are conftantly em- ployed ; and all ihips that take in ballad pay them one (hilling a ton, for which it is brought to the fhips fides. In confederation of the great increafe of the poor of this fraternity, they are by their charter impowered to purchafe in mortmain lands, tenements, &c. to the a- mount of five hundred pounds per annum ; and alio to receive charitable benefactions of well-difpofed perfons, to the like amount of five hundred pounds per annum, clear of reprizes. There are annually relieved by this company about three thoufand poor feamcn, their widows and orphans, attheexpence of about fix thoufand pounds. They commonly meet to chufe their matter at their houfe at Dcptford, but are not obliged to do it there. What is called the Red-houfe, is a place fituated a little to the north-weft of Deptford, and was a noted collection of warehoufes and ftorehoufes, built of red bricks, and from that circumftance had its name. It contained feveral forts of merchandizes, as hemp, flax, pitch, tar, and other commodities of a iimilar kind, which were all confumed by an accidental fire in }uly> 1 739- Remarks on the Sea-Coasts of Kent;. On the fouthern point of the county, called Dun- gynefs, is a light-houfe, erected for the benefit of" mariners. A neck of beach ftretches off a great dis- tance into the fea from this point, part of which is dry at low water. In Romney-bay, a little to the eattward of Dungynefs, is a good road for fhips in nor- therly winds. About five or fix miles to the fouthward of the South Foreland, is a fand called the Gunman : on this fand there is only twelve feet at low water. The Downs is a noted road for fhips, and is a bay formed by two head-lands, called the North and South Foreland, and defended, in fome meafure, from eafterly winds, by large fand-banks, called the Godwin Sands, which, for near three leagues together, lie parallel to the coaft, at about a league and a half diftance, and are dry at low water. But notwithflanding thefe fands, and the two head- lands above-mentioned, the Downs, in fome particular winds, proves fuch a wild road, that fhips are often driven from their anchors, and either foreed on fhore, or into Ramfgate pier, &c. This road is particularly expofed to fouth-eaft, and eaft-north-eaft winds ; fo that when a ftorm happens from either of thofe points of the compafs, dreadful havock is generally made among the fhips in this road. But the moft unhappy inftance that can be given of any difafter in the Downs, was in that terrible tempeft v/hich happened on the feventeenth of November 1703, when a great part of the royal navy happened to be riding there. Five of the largeft fhips had the good fortune to pafs through the Downs the day before the ftorm ; and the wind blowing then very hard, came to an an- chor at the Gunfleet. Twelve fail remained in the Downs when this ter- rible tempeft began ; and during the continuance of it, four men of war, with the greater part of their crews, were loft, befides a great number of merchantmen. Ramfgate lies near the northern extremity of this road. A pier is now building here, which, it is hoped, will prove a place of fafety to fhips in the Downs, when a ftorm happens at fouth-eaft. The works of this pier are amazingly ftrong, confifting of large co- lumns of (tone, connected together in the moft fub- ftintial manner. The (lone is brought from the Tils, of Purbcck, in Ddrfetfliire. The work; are confi- dently advanced ; and when the pier Ls cleanied, there will be water fufficient for large fhips. At pre- fent, there are only ten feet at high water on a com- mon tide, and fourteen on a fpring-tide. But when the works are completed, the depth will be near double to what it is now. The pier will indeed, for want of a fufficient quantity of back-water, be liable to be choaked up with beach and land, and confequent'.v, attended with a continual expence, to remove what is thrown in by the tide. But we apprehend, the ad- vantages arifing from having a place of fafery iituated fo properly for fuccouring fhips in diftrefs, will amply balance the inconveniency above-mentioned. The firlt road for ihips, after palling by the North Foreland, is the bay before Margate, where there are between eight and nine fathoms Water; but there aie fo many finds and fhallows near it, that none but thofe well acquainted with the coaft venture to enter ir, efpecially if the fhip be large. There is alfo a pier at Margate for fmall veflels ; but the entrence is rendered fomewhat dangerous, by a ledge of rocks, which ftretches off from the weltern cliff to a very conil- derable diftance. From hence, all the way up the channel to Tilbury- fort and Gravefend, there are a great variety of fand- banks, fome of which have buoys fixed upon them by order of the Trinity-houfe : fo that a fRilful pilot Is neceffary for large fhips. Small vell'els indeed pafs up and down this channel without danger, there being water fufficient for them in almoft any part. The Nore is a noted road for fh ps, and lies before the jveftern mouth of the Medway, called the Weft Swale. Ships ride here in great fafety, except in eafterly and north-eaft winds, when it is wholly with- out fhelter. Here properly begins the mouth of the Thames, fo much frequented by fhips from all par s of the world, where navigation is known, and any fo- reign trade carried on. Curious Plants found in Kent. Thorough-wax, Pcrfoliata, Ger. found among the corn near Canterbury. Spoon-wort, or Scurvy-grafs, Cochliaria, Ger. found in various parts of the fea-coafls of this county. There are two fpecies of this plant, both of which are found in great plenty along the coaft of Romney-rrarfh. Greek Valerian, or Jacob's Ladder, Valeriana Graca y Ger. found in the woods near Tunbridge-wells. Wild Valerian, Valeriana fylvejhis, Ger. found in feveral parts of this county, efpecially in the neighbour- hood of Goudhurit. Marfh Marygold, Caltba paluftris, fiore plena, C. Bauhino, found in the marfhes in the Ifle of Shepey. Sea-purflane, Portulaca marina no/iris, Parky found in the marfhes of Shepey. Lellow Water-lilly, Nympbea lutea, Ger. found in many parts of the rivers Stour and Medway. Wild-vine, Papeira brava, Dale, found in the hedges near Eltham. Water-plantain, Plantago aquatica, J. B. found on the fides of the Cray, in feveral places. Moon-wort, Lunaria minor, Ger. found on the com- mons near Canterbury. Male and female Satyron, Cynorforchis mas et faemina, Ger. found in the meadows near Maidftone. Male Satyron Royal, Archis palmata non maculates, Ray, found in the moift meadows near Tunbridge. Butterfly, or German Satyron, Orchis hertnapbroditica, Ger. found in the woods near Wye. Hogs-fennel, Pucadaneum, Ger. found near the fea- fhore at Deal, and other parts. Wild Marjoram, Originum vulgare fpontaneum, found in the fields near Sevenoke. Ofmond Royal, Filix Jloribus infignis, J. B. found on a boggy common near Tunbridge. Buckthorn, Rbamus catbartica, J. B. found in the hedges near Aihford. Wild* K E N T. Wild-rue, Ruta Montana, Ger. found on the downs I between Canterbury and Dover. Broom-rape, Orobauche jiore majore, jf. B. found a- tnong the broom in feveral parts of Kent. Mullein, Tapfus Barbatus, Ger. found by the fides of the highways near Dartford. Roman Coins, and other Antiquities found in Kent. We have already enumerated a great variety of coins, &c. found in this county, and therefore fhall not repeat them here. Befides which, may be mentioned a con- fiderable quantity of Roman and ancient Britifh coins dug up near Wrothani in the laft century ; and fince that time, feveral fmall pieces of brafs were found in a place called the Camps, fuppofed to have been pieces of lbme military officer there interred* In feveral of the camps at Keyfton, near Bromley, Roman coins have been often found ; as there have alfo been at Chilham, and other places in this county. A great variety of rings, bracelets, coins, and other pieces of antiquity, have been found at Dover, Sandwich, Reculver, Can- terbury, and Rochefter. Mineral Waters found in Kent. The principal mineral waters found in this county, are thofe of Tunbridge, Bromley, and Canterbury. Accounts have already been given of the two former, and we {hall here fay fomething of the laft. The mineral waters at Canterbury were difcovered by accident, about thirty years ago, by finking a well. After paffing through feveral byers of mould, fand, &c. they found, about eight or nine feet below the furface, a hard rock, out of which the water guflied with fome violence ; and, upon examination, appeared to be ftrongly impregnated with iron and fulphun Several remarkable cures have been performed by the ufe of thefe waters fince their difcovery. They are very ufeful in difeafes ot the breaft, as affhmas, coughs, rheums, and catarrhs. They have cured fe - veral afflicted with confumptions in the lungs, after they had been given over by their phyficians. Moft difcrders of the ftomach are cured by this v/ater; and it feldom fails in rheumatic and gouty pains, the fcurvy, jautidice, &c. but hardly ever fails in the gravel, cholic, and green ficknefs. In agues it is reckoned fuperior to the bark : fome conftitutions quite worn out by that difeafe, have been reftored by a conftant ufe of it. It agrees both v/ith old, decayed, and weak conftitutions, fits pleafantlv on the ftomach, works off by urine, caufes a good ap- petite, chears the fpirits, and procures fleep. It is not binding, as fome other chalybeats are, but keeps the body open in moft people, and in fome brings on a gentle loofenefs, which carries off the diftemper. Members of Parliament for this County. This county fends eighteen members to parliament, two knights of the fhire for the county ; two citizens for each of the cities of Canterbury and Rochefter; two burgefies for the boroughs of Maidftone and Queen- borough ; and two members, ftiled Barons, for each of the Cinque-ports of Dover, Sandwich, Hith, and Romney. Q q MIDDLE- E 150 1 MIDDLESEX. THE county of Middlefex is bounded on the north by Hertfordfhire ; on the fouth by the river Thames, which divides it from Surry; on the weft by the river Calne, which feparatej it from Buckingham- fhire ; and on the eaft by the river Lee, which divides it from EfTex. It extends cbout twenty-four miles in length, but hardly eighteen in breadth, and is not more than ninety-five in circumference : but as it compre- hends the two vaft cities of London and Weftminfter, which are fituated in the fouth-eaft part of the county, it is by far the wealthier!: and moft populous county in England. It is divided into fix hundreds and two liber- ties, containing feventy-three parifhes, befides a vaft number of chapels of eafe, and five market-towns, ex- clufive of the cities of London and Weftminfter. RIVERS. The rivers in this county are, the Thames, the Lee, the Colne, and the New River. But as neither of thefe rifes in Middlefex, and at the fame time, water the counties of Berks, Bucks, EiTex, "and Hertford, as well as the county of Middlefex, we fhall defcribe each in the refpective county to which it immediately belongs, except the New River, an account of which will be given in its proper place. Air, Soil, and Productions. The air of Middlefex is very pleafant and healthy, to which a fine gravelly foil does not a little contribute. The foil produces plenty of corn, and the county a- bounds with fertile meadows and gardeners grounds. In a word, the greater part of the county is fo prodigi- oufly afRfted by the rich compoft from London, that the whole of the cultivated part may be confidereJ as a gar- den. The natural productions of this county are cattle, corn, and fruit ; but its manufactures are too many to be enumerated here, there being hardly a fingle manu- fasShire practifed in Great Britain, but what is alfo prac- tifed in this county. W e ihould now, according to the method hitherto followed, proceed to confider the hufbandry of this po- pulous county ; but fhall defer that accounc till we have defcribed the cities, market-towns, Sec. in Middlefex. Cities, Market Towns, &c. London and Weftminfter, though diftinct cities with regard to their jurifdictions, and formerly, indeed, with regard to their fituations, are now united by the fuburbs or both cities, fo as to form one vaft metropolis. The borough of Southwark, in the county of Surry, which is alio united to London by two bridges over the Thames, is only a member or fubuib of the city of London, and was erected, during the reign of Edward VI. into a new ward, by the name of Bridge-ward Without. But the power granted by the charter not proving fufficient to exclude the juftices of peace for the county of Surry from interfering in its government, it is now only a nominal ward. It is, however, reprefented by a fenior alderman, called the Father of the City. The cities of London, Weftminfter, and borough of Southwark, are mdifcriminately comprehended by the general name of London, notwithstanding each differs in the manner of its government, and each, as a diftinct corporation, fends members to parliament. The name London has fcarcely fuffered any variation fince the time of the Romans; for it is called Londinium i'.nd Longidinium by Tacitus, Ptolemy, and Antoninus ; smd fkmrifhec* fo mirdi under the Romans, that tljey changed this name to that of Augufta, as appears from Ammionus Marcellinus, who Jived in the time of the emperor Valentinian. The name Augufta was thought the moft honourable and aufpicious that could be con- ferred, and was never given without the confent of the Roman emperors : but whether it had the name Augufta from Hellena Augufta, the mother of Conftantine the Great, or from the Legio Secunda Augufta, that refided for fome time in this city, does not appear. It is only known, that this city, fome time afterwards, loft the name Augufta, and recovered its ancient name, Lon- don, by which it is called at this day. London is fituated in fifty-one degrees and thirty mi- nutes north latitude ; and being the metropolis of the Britifh dominions, is the meridian from which all Bri- tifh geographers compute the meafures of longitude. London is fuppofed to be equal, if not fuperior, to every other city upon earth, for the numbers and wealth of its inhabitants, its extenfive commerce, its admi- rable policy, its many eftablifhments to promote litera- ture, manufactures and trade, and its numerous foun- dations of charity to fupport the indigent, and relieve every fpecies of diftrefs. it was a Roman city ; and very early under the Romans was celebrated for the mulitude of its merchants, and the vaft extent of its trade. During the Saxon heptarchy, it was the metropolis of the kingdom of the Eaft Saxons, and was always the chief reiidence of the kings of England. Its firft char- ter from William the Conqueror, dated in the year 1067, is ftill preferved in the city archives. But as the moft fuccincl hiftory that could be drawn up of this great and ancient city, would much exceed the utmoft bounds that can be allotted to the whole article in this work, it is necelTary to proceed to a defcription of its prefent ftate. ' London is fituated to great advantage, on the north fide of the Thames, on a gentle rife from that river, and on a gravelly and loamy foil, which conduces very much to the health of its inhabitants. The country round it confifts of gardeners grounds, delightful plains, and beautiful elevations, adorned with a great number of magnificent country houfes, belonging to the citizens. For twenty miles round London, the roads leading to it are the fineft that can be imagined; being kept in con- ftant repair by a toll collected at turnpikes ; and the diftances from London, in all the great roads to it throughout Britain, are marked on ftone-pofts, called Mile-ftones, fet up, one at the end of every meafured mile. No city is better lighted in the night than London, the allowance for the public lamps being more than ten thoufand pounds a year, exclufive of many thoufand lamps belonging to public houfes and others, which are lighted at the private expence of particular citizens. The cities of London and Weftminfter are better fupplied with water than perhaps any other in the world : almoft every houfe is furnilhed with pipes, which bring it in great plenty from the Thames, the New River head, or from fome ponds at Hampftead, a village in the neighbourhood. The city alfo abounds with fine fprings, fome of which are medicinal. London and Weftminfter are reckoned to extend fsven miles and an half in length, from Blackwall in the eaft, toTothill-fields, or to the fields beyond Grofvenor and Cavendifh fquares, in the weft; and fix miles three quarters along the Thames, from Poplar to Peterbo- rough-houfe, beyond Weftminfter horft-ferry. The breadth, from Newington Butts, cn the fouth fide of the borough of Southwark in Surry, to Jeffrey's alms-houfes in Kingfland-road in Middlefex, is three miles thirty- ; one poles ; though in other placets from Peterborough hou k MIDDL- ESEX. houfe to the Britifh Mufeum, it is but two miles; and in others, as in Wapping, not half a mile: and the circumference is judged t > be at leaft eighteen miles. In the year 1739, it was computed, that in the cities and fuburbs of London and Weftminfttr, there were five thoufand and ninety-nine ftreets, lanes and alleys; ninetv- five thoufand nine hundred and fixty-eighthoufes, and about feven hundred and twenty-fix thoufand inha- bitants. But fince this computation, many new ftreets have been built. ^ The civil government of the city of London, as di- ftincl: from Wcttminfter, is veiled in a mayor, who has the title of Lord, twenty-fix aldermen, a recorder, a chamberlain, two hundred and thirty-fix common- councilmen, and other officers. The lord mayor is elected annually at Guildhall, on Michaelmas dav, when the aldermen below the chair, who have ferved the office of fheriff, are put in nomi- nation, out or whom the liverymen, who are chofen from among the freemen of each company, and are about eight thoufand incumber, return two to the court of aldermen, who ufually chufe the fenior alderman. Upon the eighth of November, he is fworn into his office at Guildhall, and the next day he is inaugurated at Weftminfter. For this purpofe, he is met in the morning by the aldermen and fheriffs at Guildhall, from whence they ride, with great ftate, in their coaches, to the flairs on the Thames fide, called the Three Cranes, where they take water in the lord mayor's barge, being attended by the barges of the twelve prin- cipal companies, and others, in their furred gowns, with their mufic, colours, and ftreamers ; and faluted from the fhore and water by great guns. After landing at Palace-yard, Weftminfter, the companies march in or- der to Weftminfter-hall, followed by the lord mayor and aldermen. Having entered the hall, they walk round it with the city fword and mace carried before them, to falute the courts fitting there; and then walk up to the court of exchequer, where the new lord mayor is fworn before the barons. His lordfhip then walks round the hdl again, and invites the judges to dinner at Guildhall ; af.er which, he returns with the citizens by water to hlaekfriers; from whence they ride in their coaches, preceded by the artillery company, being a band of infantry, conftituting part of the city militia, in buff coats ; and attended by the city companies, with their flags and mufic, to Guildhall, where they generally meet the lord chancellor, the judges, feveral of the no- bility, the minifters of (late, and foreign ambaffadors, who are invited to a magnificent entertainment : which ... is alfo fometimes honoured with the prefence of the king, queen, and princes of the blood. The lord mayor's juiifdiction extends, in fome cafes, a great way beyond the city; not only over a part of the fuburbs, but upon the river Thames, eaft as far as. its conflux with the Medway, and weft to the river Colne : and he keeps courts annually for the conferva- tion of the river Thames, in the counties it flows through, within the limits already mentioned. He al- ways appears abroad in a ffate coach ; he is robed in fcarlet or purple, richly furred, with a hood of black velvet, a great gold chain, or collar of SS, and a rich jewel hanging to it ; and his officers walk before, or on each fide of his coach. He ufually goes on Sunday morning, attended by fome of the aldermen, to St. Paul's cathedral, where, on the firft Sunday in term- time, all or molt of the twelve judges are prefent, whom, after divine fervice, he invites to dinner. If a lord mayor elect refufes to ferve, he is liable to be fined. The city is divided into twenty-fix wards ; over each bf thefe wards there is an alderman ; and on the death of any of the twenty-fix aldermen, the wardmote, which is a court kept in every ward of the city, upon a precept immediately iffued by the lord mayor, meet and return the names of two ftibftantial citizens to his lordfhip, and his brethren the aldermen, who chufe one of them ; and he that is chofe muff, ferve, or pay a fine of five hundred pounds. All the aldermen are juftices of the peace in the city by charter. The two fheriffs of this city, which is a county of itfelf, are alfo fherifFs of the county of Middlefex, aiid are chofen at Guildhall on Midfummer-day, by the liverymen, but not fworn till Michaelmas-eve, when they enter on their office ; and two days after, are pre-^ fented in the Exchequer-court in Weftminttcr-hall, to the lord chancellor, by the lord mayor and aldermen. Each fherift" has an under-fherifF, fix clerks, thirty-fix ferjeants ; and every ferjeunt a yeoman, who belongs to either of the prifons, called Woodftreet Compter, or the Poultry Compter. If the perfon chofen fhenff does not chufe to ferve, he is fined four hundred pounds to the city, and thirteen pounds fix ihillings and eight- pence to the minifters of the city prifons, unlefs he fwears himfelf not worth ten thoufand pounds ; and if he ferves, he is obliged to give bond to the corporation. After the fherifFs are elected, the livery chufe the chamberlain of the city, and other officers, called the Bridge-mafters, auditors of the city and bridge-houfe accounts, and the ale-conners. The recorder is ap- pointed by the lord mayor and court of aldermen: his place is for life. The common-council, conftablesj and other officers, are chofen by the houfekeepers of the ward, on St. Tho- mas's day, at a wardmote then held by the aldermen. , The court of common-council, which is the narrie given to the afiembly of the lord mayor, aldermen, and common-councilmen, make bye-laws for the city, and, upon occafion, grant freedoms to ftrangers. It is called and adjourned by the lord mayor ; and out of it are formed feveral committees for letting the city lands, and other fervices. The lord mayor and court of aldermen are a court of record, in which all leafes and inftruments are executed, that pafs under the city leal. They fix the price of bread, determine all differeriees relating to lights, wa- ter-courfes, and party-walls ; fufpend or punifh offend- ing officers, and annually eleft the rulers of the water- mens company. They alfo appoint molt of the city- officers, as the four common pleaders, the comptroller of the chamber, the two fecondaries, the remembrancer, the city folicitor, the fword-bearer, the common hunt, the water-bailiff, four attornies ' of the lord mayor's court, the clerk of the chamber, the three ferjeant carv- ers, three ferjeants of the chamber, the ferjeants of the channel, the two marfhals, the hall-keeper, the yeo- men of the chamber, four yeomen of the water-fide, the yeomen of the channel, the under water-bailiff", two meal-weighers, two fruit-meters, the foreign- taker, the clerk of the city works, fix young men, two clerks of the papers, eight attornies of the fheriffs- court, eight clerk-fitters, two prothonotaries, the clerk of the bridge-houfe, the clerk of the court of requefts, the beadle of the court of requefts, thirty-fix ferjeants at mace, thirty-fix yeomen, the gauger, the fealer and fearchers of leather, the keeper of the green-yard, two keepers of the two compters, of Newgate and of Lud- gate, the meafurer, the fteward of Southwark, the bai- liff of the hundred of Oftulfton, and the city artificers : but the rent-gatherer is put in by Mr. Chamberlain, and the high bailiff of Southwark by the common-council. The court of Huftings, thus called from the Danifh Hus-ding, (i.e. a houfe of judgment) is* reckoned the moft ancient tribunal in the city, and was eftablifhed for the prefervation of its laws, franchifes, and cuftoms. It is held at Guildhall, before the lord mayor and fhe- rifFs, and the recorder, who, in civil caufes, fits there as judge. Here deeds are inrolled, recoveries palled, wills proved, and outlawries fued out ; and writs of right, wafte, partition, dower, and replevins, deter- mined. Here alfo the four reprefentatives of this city in parliament are elected by the liverymen of the city, who, out of eight candidates that are ufually fet up, make choice of four. The lord mayor's court is likewife a court of record and of equity, held in the chamber of Guildhall every Tuefday, where the recorder alfo fits as judge, and the lord mayor and aldermen may, if they pleafe, fit with him. Actions of debt, trefpafs, and others, arifing within the city and liberties, of any value, may be en- tered and tried in this as in other courts j and an action may ivi i d fc L E s E x. may be removed hither from the flieriffs courts, before the jury is fworn. This court has an office peculiar to itfelf, confifting of four attornies, and fix ferjeants at mace. The juries for trying caufes in this and in the fherift's court are returned by the feveral wards, at their Wardmote inquefts at Chriftmas, when each ward ap- points the perfons to fcrve on juries, for every month in the enfuing year. The flieriffs have two courts, which alfo are courts of record for the trial of actions of debt, cafe, trefpafs, ac- count, covenant, attachments and fequeftrations. They are held on Wednefday and Friday for actions entered in Woodftreet-compter, and on Thurfday and Saturday for fuch as are entered in the Poultry-compeer. To thefe courts belong eight attornies, two fecondaries, who allow and return all writs, two clerks of the papers, who copy fubpeenas, two prothonotartes, who copy declarations, and eight clerk-fitters, who enter actions and take bails. The chamberlain has a court or office, which is held at the chamber in Guildhall. He receives and pays all the city cafh, keeps the fecurities taken for it by the court of aldermen, and annually accounts to the auditors apnointed for that purpofe. He attends every morning at Guildhall, to in roll or turn over apprentices, or make tnem free, and hears and determines differences between them and their mafters. The orphans court is a court held by the lord mayor and aldermen, once a year or oftner, for managing the affairs of the city orphans, or freemens children, under twenty-one years of age. The common ferjeant takes inventories of fuch freemens eftates, and the common crier fummons their widows, or other executors and adminiflrators, to appear before the court of aldermen, to bring in an inventory, and give fecurity for the tef- tator's eftate. When the orphans are of age, or are married with confent of the court of aldermen, they may receive their portions upon demand. The court of confeience is a court erected by act of parliament, in the year 1606, for recovering debts un- der forty millings, at an eafy expence; the creditor's oath of the debt being fufficient to afcertain it, without further evidence. Two aldermen and four commoners, thofe of each ward being appointed monthly in their turn by the lord mayor and court of aldermen, fit at the huftings in Guildhall, every Wednefday and Saturday, as commiffioners of this court. A wardmote court is a court held by the aldermen of each ward, for chufing the officers, and fettling the affairs of the ward ; and this court prefents fuch offences and nuifances to the lord mayor, and common-council, as demand redrefs. A hallmote court is fo called, becaufe it is held by the governors of the feveral companies, at their refpective halls. The intention of this court is to regulate matters relating to the trade of each compajiy. The military government of this city is lodged in a lieutenancy, confifting of the lord mayor, aldermen, and other principal citizens, who receive their authority from the king, by commiffion. Thefe have under their com- mand, the city trained bands, confifting of fix regiments of foot, diftinguifhed by the names of the white, orange, yellow, blue, green and red; each confifting of eight companies of one hundred and fifty men each, and the whole of feven thoufand two hundred men. Befides thefe fix regiments, here is a corps called the artillery company, from its being taught the military exercife in the Artillery ground. This company is independent of the reft, and confifts of feven or eight hundred volun- teers. All thefe, with two regiments of foot, of eight hundred men each, commanded bv the lieutenant of the Tower of London, make the whole militia of this city, exclufive of Weftminfter and Southwark, above ten thoufand men, including officers and drums. London is a bifhop's fee, the diocefe of which not only comprehends Middlefex, Effex, and part of Hert- fordfhire, but the Britifh plantations in America. The bifhop of London takes place next to the archbimops of Canterbury and York : But the following parifhes of this city are exempt from his jurisdiction, being pecu- liars under the immediate gtovernfecrtt of the archbifhop of Canterbury : Alhailows in Breadfheet, Alhallows Lombard-ftreet, St. Diony's Back-church, St. Dunftan's in the Eaft, St. John Baptift, St. Leonard's Eafkheap, St. Mary Aldermary, St. Mary Bothaw, St. Mary le Bow, St. Michael Crooked-lane, St. Michael Royal, St. Pancras Soper-lane, and St. Vedaft Fofter-lane. Before the great fire, which in 1666, burnt down al- moft all the city of London, and is thence called the Fire of London, there were ninety feven parifhes within the walls of this city, and feventeen without, which made the number of parifhes in the city and liberties one hundred and fourteen, exclufive of thofe in the city and liberties of Weftminfter, and in the borough of South- ward There are however at prefent no more than fixty- two parochial churches in the city and liberties of Lon- don, and confequently no more parifh priefts. The dreadful fire above-mentioned, broke out about one in the morning on Sunday the fecond of September, in the houfe of Mr. Farryner, a baker, in Pudding-lane j a time when the eyes and fenfes of all were locked in fleep. The houfe was a wooden building pitched on the outiide, as were all the reft in the lane, which was ex- ceeding narrow, and by the jutting over of the feveral ftories the buildings on each fide almolt met at the top; and in this manner were built moft of the houfes in this metro-' polis. The houfe in which the fire began, containing much brufh and faggot wood, the fire foon got a-head, and furioufly feized on the neighbouring houfes on ali fides, running four ways at once ; it prefently fet New Fifh-ftreet all in aflame; while another branch raging down Pudding-lane, laid hold on Thames-ftreet, the repofitory of all combuftibles, as hemp, flax, roiin, oil, butter, pitch, tar, brimftone, cordage, hops, fugar, brandy, wood, and coals ; where dividing itfeif, it ran both eaftward and weftward with inexprelfible fury, into the adjacent lanes, confuming all before it; and its two main branches meeting at London bridge, foon reduced all the buildings upon it to afhes, together with the water engines under it; by which means the people were deprived of the afiiftance of that element; for the new river was not then laid into thofe parts. The pulling down houfes every way, at fome diftance, was firft propofed ; and this was the only method th.it could have been of any fervice in flopping the progrefs of the flames; for had there been water, the fire was too fierce to be maftered by the engines, or to fuffer any body to work near it ; but this was objected to, and while the affair was debated, the flames fpread ftill farther. Unhappily they were increafed by a violent eafterly wind; and that day and the following night fpread up Gracechurch-ftreet, and downwards from Cannon-ftreet to the water fide, as far as the three Cranes. The people in all parts were diffracted at feeing the progrefs of the fire, and by the care of carrying off their goods. However many attempts were now made to prevent its fpreading, by pulling down houfes, and making great intervals; but" not having time to remove the materials, the fire feized upon the timber, boards, laths, and rubbifh, and extended itfelf over thefe fpaces to the neighbouring houfes; raging in a bright flame all Monday and Tuefday, without any endeavours to ftop it proving effectual; though his Majefty, the Duke cf York, and great numbers of the nobility and gentry came with the guards, who were employed in endeavour- ing toextinguifh it. The wind, however, flackened a little on Tuefday night, when the fire, meeting at the Temple with brick buildings, it by little and little loft its force on that fide, fo that on Wednefday morning a ftop was put to it on the weft, at the Temple church, and alfo at Holborn bridge and Pye-corner. On the north, it ftopped at Alderfgate, Cripplegate, near the north end of Bafing- hall-ftreet, and in Coleman-ftreet : on the eaft, at the fouth corner of Bifhopfgate-ftreet and Leadenhall- ftreet, at the church in Fenchurch-ftreet, and at the Tower dock, after its having confumed all the buildings within thefe limits, quite down to the water fide. On M I D D On Thurfday the flames were extinguifhed ; but that evening the fire burft out again at the Temple, by the falling cf Come fparks upon, a pile of wooden buildings - r but iiiion blowing up the houfes around it with gun- powder, it was extinguifhed the next morning. By this dreadful conflagration were con fumed four hundred ftreets and bines, thirteen thoufand two hundied houfes, the cathedral church of St. Paul, eighty-fix pa- rifh-churches, fix chapels, the Royal Exchange, Black- well Hall, and the Cuftom-houfe, feveral holpitals and libraries, fifty-two of the companies halls, and a vail number of other ftately edifices, togqther with three of the city gates, four ftonc bridges, and four prifons; the lofs of which, with that of the merchandize and houihold furniture, amounted, according to the beft calculation, to ten millions, (even hundred and thirty thoufand, five hundred pounds : but it is amazing, that in this terrible devaluation, only fix perfons loll their lives bv the fire. As by the dreadful ravages of the plague the pre- ceding year, the city was depopulated, and the houfes deprived of their inhabitants ; fo by this conflagration the furvivino; citizens were deprived of their habitations, and many thoufands of them compelled to retire to the fields, With fuch of their effects as they were able to fave, where they continued deftitute of the conveniences, and almoft all the iieceffary accommodations of life; lying in the open air, till tents 3nd flight wooden huts could be erected, to fecure them from the inclemencies of the weather. Mean-while, the king had the goodnefs to order a conliderable quantity of naval bread to be im- mediately diftributed among the poor; and a proclama- tion was wifely publifhed, ordering the neighbouring juilices to encourage the bringing in of all forts of pro- vihens. It has been much difputed, whether this difmal ca- taftrophe was occafioned by accident or delign. An attempt was firft made to fix it upon the diiTenters, who iufiered as much by this calamity as any other body of men ; but having not the lead colour for fuch a pre- tence, it dropoed of courfe ; and theEnglifh being then at war with the French and the Dutch, the latter were charged with concerting this diabolical fcheme ; but this was found to be only an injurious afperfion : how- ever, Robert Hubert, a Frenchman, of the Romifh church, conf-ffed, that he, at the folicitation of one Stephen Piedloe, fet fire to the baker's houfe in Pudding- lane, by means of a fire-ball which he fixed to the end of a long pole, and lighting it with a match, put it in at a window ; and that for this villainy he was to be rewarded on his return to France; but it is generally allowed, that this man was at that time difordered in his fenfes ; and great pains have been taken to prove, that he had no hand in that calamity : however, he was con- demned and executed, though he furrendered himfelf, and though there was no other evidence of his guilt than that cf his own confeffion. It is obfervable, that the preceding fpring and fummer had been the drieft in the memory of man ; whereby the houfes, which were all built of wood, and without pa-rty walls, were prepared, as it were, by Heaven, to become fuel for this terrible conflagration, which, to- gether with the eaft wind above-mentioned, might pof- libly be alone fufficient to reduce the city to a heap of afhes. But whatever the unhappy citizens of London might then fuffer, it is evident, that this was one of the greateft blefnngs that could have happened for the good of pofte- rity; for inftead of very narrow and incommodious ftreets ; inftead of dark, irregular, and ill-contrived wooden houfes, with their feveral ftories projecting over, obftructing the circulation of the air, and har- bouring thofe noxious particles that occafioned the fre- quent return cf the plague, and often fires of the moft dreadful kind ; by the modern way of building, and the enlarging of many of the ftreets, ofFenfive vapours are expelled ; and this, added to the cleanlinefs produced by the great quantities of the water brought into London by the New River, has freed this city from all peftilen- tial fymptnms for cbove ninety years together. IS L E S E X. 153 The reduction of this great and opulent city to a heap of rubbifh, greatly affected the whole nation ; and the king defiring it fhould be now erected with greater mag- nificence, uniformity, and fafety, than before, prohi- bited, for fome time, the rebuilding of the houfes ; and the judges were ordered by parliament to hear and deter- mine all difputes between landlords, tenants, and leil'ees, concerning the rebuilding and repairing of houfes, &c. without fee or reward. London indeed might now have been rebuilt in fuch a manner, as to have exceeded in beauty all the cities upon earth ; and this would have been the cafe, had either of the following plans been followed. The {irffc was formed by Sir Ghriftopher Wren, who, purfuant to the royal commands, traced over the great plain of afhes and ruins, and thence formed his plan of a new city, free from all the deformities and inconveniencies of the old one, by enlarging the ftreets and lanes, and render- ing them as nearly parallel to each other as poffible ; by feating all the parifh-churches in a confpicucus man- ner ; by forming the moft public places into large piazzas, the centres of eight ways ; by uniting the halis of the twelve companies into one regular fquare annexed to Guildhall ; by making a fpacious and commodioiis key along the whole bank of the river, without any in- terruptions, from Black Friars to the Tower, with fome large docks for barges deep laden. The ftreets were to be of three magnitudes ; the three principal leading ftraight through the citv, and one or two crofs ftreets to be at leaft ninety feet wide ; others fixty feet, and the lanes about thirty feet, exc^iding all narrow dark alleys, thoroughfares, and courts. The Exchange to ftand free in the middle of a piazza, and to be the centre of the town, from whence the ftreets fhould proceed to all the principal parts of the city ; the building to be after the form of a Roman forum, with double porticoes. Many ftreets were alio to radiate upon the bridge. Thofe of the firft and fecond magnitude to be carried on as ftraight as poffible, and to center in four or five areas furrounded with piazzas. The churches were to be defigned according to the beft forms for capacity and hearing; and thofe of the larger parifhes adorned with porticoes, and lofty orna- mental towers and fteeples : but all church-yards, gar- dens, and unneceffary vacuities, and all trades that ufe great fires, or yield noifome fmells, were to be placed out of the town. This plan, which that great architect laid before the King and the Houfe of Commons, is thus explained. From that part of Fleet-ftreet which remained unburned, a ftraight ftreet of ninety feet wide was to extend ; and, pafling by the fouth fide of Ludgate, was to end grace- fully in a piazza on Tower-hill. In the middle of Fleet-ftreet was to be a circular area furrounded with a piazza, the centre of eight ways, where, at one ftation, were to meet the following ftreets. The firft, ftraight forward, quite through the city : the fecond, obliquely towards the right hand, to the be- ginning of the key that was to be run from Bridewell dock to the Tower : the third, obliquely on the left, to Smithfield : the fourth, ftraight on the right, to the Thames : the fifth, ftraight on the left, to Hatton Gar- den and Clerkenwell : the fixth, ftraight backwards to Temple Bar: the feventh, obliquely on the right, to the walks of the Temple: and the eighth, obliquely on the left, to Curfitor's alley. Pafling down Fleet-ftreet, at the bottom of which the ditch was to be rendered a beautiful canal, paffable by as many bridges as there were ftreets to crofs it, and leaving Ludgate-prifon on the left fide of the ftreet, where a triumphal arch was to be formed, inftead of the gate, in honour of king Charles II. the founder of the new city : St. Paul's was to be fituated where it is at prefent, and furrounded by a triangular piazza. On leaving that cathedral on the left, a ftraight ftreet was to extend directly to the Tower, adorned all the way, at proper diftances, with parifh-churches ; and leaving that edifice to the right, the other great branch was to lead to the Royal Exchange, which waa to be R r feated MIDDLES E X. fcated m the midJ]e of a pia/.za, between two great ftreets ; the one from Ludgate leading to the louth front, and another from Holborn, ihrough Newgate, and ; thence ftraight to the north front of the Exchange. This noble fcheme was demoiu'irated to be practicable, ! without the infringement of any man's property ; for, j by leaving out the church-yards, &c. which were to be | removed out of town, there would have been fufiicient ! room both for the augmentation of the ftreets, the dif- ! o . . . i pofition of the churches, halls, and all public buildings, j and to have given every proprietor full fatisfaction : for i though few of them would have been feated upon exactly j the very fame ground they poiTcffcd before the fire, yet j none would have been thruft at any confiderable diftance j from it : but the obftinacy of great part of the citizens, j in refuting to recede from the right of rebuilding their houles on the old foundations, was .an unfurmountable obftacle to the execution of this noble fcheme. Soon after this, Sir John Evelyn produced another plan, in which he propofed, that fome of the deepeft vallLs fhould be filled up, or at leaft made with lefs fudden declivities. That a new and fpacious key fhould run from the Tower to the Temple, and extend iti'elf as far as the low water mark. ; by which means the chan- nel of the river would be kept conftantly full ; the irre- gularity anil deformity of the ftairs, and the dirt and naftinefs left at every ebb would alfo be prevented. To create variety in the ftreets, he alfo propofed, that there fhould be breaks and enlargements, by fpacious openings at proper diftances, furrounded with piazzas, and uniformly built with beautiful fronts ; and that fome of thefe openings fhould be fquare, fome circular, and others oval. He would have none of the principal ftreets lefs than an hundred feet in breadth, nor any of the narroweft lefs than thirty. He would have three or four large ftreets between the Thames and London Wall, reckoning that of Cheapfide for the chief, which might extend from Temple Bar to the upper part of Tower- hill, or to Crutched Friars, bearing the cathedral of St. Paul's upon a noble eminence. Among thefe he would have the parochial churches, which he thought might be reduced to half the number, as fome of the parifhes were then no lefs than two hun- dred times larger than others : and thefe he would have fo interfperfed, as to adorn the profile of the city at all its avenues. Moft of them he wonld have in the centre of fpacious areas, adorned with piazzas, &c, fo as to be feen from feveral ftreets, and others at the abutments and extremities of them. About the church piazzas, the ftationers and book- fellers were to have their fhops, and the minifters their- houfes ; as about that of St. Paul's was to be the epif- copal palace, the dean and prebend's houfes, St. Paul's fchool, a public library, the prerogative and firft fruits office, all which were to be built at an ample diftance from the cathedral, and with more ftately fronts, in honour of that auguft pile. In fome of thefe openings, furrounded with piazzas, he propofed to have the feveral markets. In others the coaches might wait; and in fome might be public fountains conftantly playing. The College of Phyficians he would have in one of the beft parts of the town, incircled with a handfome piazza, for the dwellings of thofe learned perfons, with the furgeons, apothecaries, and druggifts in the ftreets about them ; for he would have all of a myftery in the fame quarters : thofe of the better fort of the fhopkeepers in the fweeteft and moft eminent ftreets and piazzas ; and the artificers in the more ordinary houfes, in the in- termediate and narrow paffages ; the taverns and vie-, tualling-houfes were to be placed amongft them, and be built accordingly ; but fo as to preferve the moft perfect uniformity. Between the piazzas, market-places, and churches, might be placed the halls for the companies ; and thefe, if fronted with ftone, and adorned with ftatues and other ornaments, would infinitely enrich the ftreets, and ren- der this city as famous for architecture of the moft re- fined gufto, as any city in Europe ; among which fhould be diftinguifhed Guildhall, by its being more pompous and magnificent than the reft : near this edifice he would have a magnificent houfc for the lord mayor, and others for the two fiwrifts. The Royal Exchange he thought miL'ht front the Thames about the Steelyard, in an area furrounded on three fidej with piazzas, with vaults for warehoufes underneath ; and for fuch merchandize as could not be well preferved underground, might be erected buildings fronting the Thames on the other fide of the river, with wharfs before and yards behind for the placing of cranes, the laying of timber, coals, &c. and other grofs com- modities, while the key over againft it fhouTd be built for the owners, and the dwellings of the principal mer- chants : but if the warehoufes muft needs be on this fide, they fhould be made to front Thames-ftreet rather than the river, becaufe of the dull and heavy afpecl of thofe buildings. The little bay at Queenhithe fhould have the key con- tinued around it, and cloiftered about for the market- men and fruiterers ; and where the wharf then was, a ftately avenue was to extend to St. Paul's. Four great ftreets were to extend along the city : the firft from Fleet-ditch, (which was to be formed into a noble canal) to the Tower : the fecond, from the Strand to the moft eaftern part of the city, where fhould be a noble triumphal arch in honour of Charles II. the third, from Newgate to Aldgate : and the fourth and fhorteft, from Alderfgate to Bifhopfgate. He propofed that five principal crois-ftreets fhould extend from Black Friars ftairs into Weft Smithfield ; from the Thames eaft of St. Paul's to Alderfgate; from Queenhithe to Cripple- gate ; and from the Royal Exchange to Moorgate : that the ftreet from the bridge fhould extend to Biihopfgate : that one from Billingfgate fhould extend near as far: and one from the Cuftom-houfe to Aldgate. T he hofpitals, workhoufes to employ the poor, and the prifons, being built and re-endowed at the public expence, were to be difpofed of in convenient quarters of the city : the hofpitals would become one of the prin- cipal ftreets ; but the prifons, and court for the triaPof criminals, might ftill be built near the entrances of the city. The gates were to be in the form of triumphal arches, adorned with ftatues, relievos, and appofite inferiptions, not obftrudted by fheds, or mean houles joined to them. This gentleman alfo propofed, that along the wall betwixt Cripplegate and Aldgate, fhould be the church- yards of the feveral parifhes, while the houfes oppofite to them formed a large ftreet for the common inns, and ferved as a ftation for carriers, ore. Thefe being on the north part of the city, and neareft the confines of the fields and roads, would leaft incumber the town; and there would be a far more commodious and freeaccefs to them, by reafon of their immediate approaches through the traverfe ftreets, than if they were fcattered up and down without diftinction. But this fcheme, which was defigned as an improve- ment of Sir Chriftopher's, alfo fell to nothing; and by the obftinacy of the citizens, the opportunity was loft of rendering this city the admiration of the world, and thereby of drawing the nobility of all Europe to vifit it, and lay out great funis here. However, it was ordered by acT: of parliament, that many of the ftreets and lanes fhould be widened, and the city was impowered to make a new ftreet from Cneapfide to Guildhall, which obtained the name of King-ftreet, and 'another from Thread needle-ftreet to Lothbury, called Prince's-ftreet. And the markets, which till then were held in Newgate-ftreet and Cheap- fide, were ordered to be removed behind the houfes into commodious market-places to be prepared for that pur- pofe. It was alfo enacted, that all the houfes fhould be built with ftone or brick, with party walls, and the whole finifhed within three years: that the ground in feveral places fhould be railed, and that a column of brafs or ftone fhould be erected on or near the place where the above dreadful fire began. The ftreets, markets, churches, fchools, halls, and other public buildings in this city and its liberties, are too numerous to be mentioned, much lefs to be defcribed, within the bounds allotted to this article; fo that the moft remarkable only muft be feleded. In M I D D In Bridge-ward within, the principal ftrutflure is London-bridge, fiom which Brilge-wurd within and Bridge-ward without were denominated. The original bridge was of wood, and appears to have been firft built between the years 993 and 1016 ; but being burnt down about the year 113^, it v/as rebuilt of wood in 1 1 63. Theexpences, however, of maintaining and repairing ir, became fo burdenfome to the inhabitants of the city, that it was refolved to build a ftone bridge a little welt- ward, of the wooden one. This building was begun in 1 176, and finifhed in 1209. It confiited of twenty arches, was nine hundred and fifteen feet long, forty- four feet high, and feventy-three feet wide ;< but hoqfes being built on each fide, the ftreet or interval between them was only twenty-three feet broad. The narrow- nefs of this pafiage having occancned the lofs of many lives, from the number of carriages continually paffing and repairing ; and the ftraitnefs of the arches, and the enormous fize of the fterlings, which took up one fourth part of the water-way, and rendered the fall at low wa- ter no lefs than five feet, having alfo occafioned frequent and fatal accidents, the magiftrates of London, in 1756, obtained an acl of parliament, for improving, widening and enlarging the pafiage over and through this bridge ; which granted them a toll for every carriage and horfe paffing over it, and for every barge or veflel with goods pafSna, throuoh it : but thefe tolls being found infuffi- cient, were abolifhed by an act, which pafi'ed in 175S, for explaining, amending, and rendering the former a£i more effectual, and for granting the city of London money towards carrying on that work. In confequence of thefe ails of parliament, a temporary wooden bridge was built, and the houlcs on the old bridge were taken down. In (lead of a narrow ftreet, twenty-three feet wide, there is now a pafiage of thirty-one feet for car- riages, with a handfome raifed pavement of ftone on each fide, feven feet broad, for the ufe of foot paflln- gers. The fides are fecured and adorned by fine ftone baluftrades, enlightened in the .night with lamps. The pafiage through the bridge is enlarged, by throwing the two middle arches intoone^ and by feveral other altera- tions and improvements^ i>ut ftill the pafiage is very dangerous, and largp banks of (and are thrown up, both above and below the bridge, by the violence of the current. , Under the firft, fecond, and fourth arches, from the north fide of the bridge, there are engines, worked by the flux and reflux of the river ; the water of which they raife to luch a height, as to fupply many parts of the city. Thefe engines were contrived, in 1582, by one Peter Morice, a Dutchman, and called London- bridge Water-works. The works under the fourth arch will be taken away as foon as an engine under the fecond arch can be finifhed, which is now in great for- wardnefs. Near the north fide of London-bridge ftands a beauti- ful and magnificent fluted column, of the Doric order, built with Portland ftone, and called the Monument. It was creeled to perpetuate the memory of a moft dread- ful fire that broke out near the place where it ftands, upon the fecond of September, in the year 1666, and deftroyed almofl the whole of this city, whence it is called the Fire of London. This column, which was begun in 1671, and finifhed in 1677, is fifteen feet dia- meter, and two hundred and two feet high from the ground, the exa£t diftance of the very fpot from it, where the fire firft broke out. It ftands on a pedeftal, forty feet high, and twenty-one feet fquare, adorned with emblems in alio and bafio relievo : within it is a fpiral ftair-cafe of black marble, containing three hun- dred and forty-five fteps, with iron rails, leading to a balcony, encompafling a cone, which is thirty-two feet high, and fupports a blazing urn of brafs gilt. It is obferved of this column, that, like Trajan's pillar at Rome, it is built in form of a candle. There is an in- fcription upon this monument, purporting, that the fire was kindled and kept up by papifts : this indeed is the fa£t it was built to commemorate ; which, notwith- ftanding, has been lefs and lefs believed, as the fpirit of party has decayed with ignorance and fuperftition ; and L E S E X. 155 at prefent it is almoft univerfally agreed to be falfe, the very infeription itlelf being fallacious and equivocal. It tells us, that two perforis were executed upon the fpot as incendiaries ; and that they confeiled, not that they fet the houfe on fire where the conflagration began, but that the conflagration began a.t that houfe. In Tower-ward, the moft eafteriy ward of the city, is a tower, called the Tower of London, from which the ward took its name, and which ancientlv was a royal palace, but is now the chief fortrefs of the city, it ftands near the Thames, and is fuppofed to have been originally built by William the Conqueror, about the year 1076* when it con filled of that part only called the White* Tower, which was new built in 1637 and 1638. The White Tower itfelf confills of three very lofty ftories, under* which are fpacious and commodious vaults, chief y filled with faltpetie. It is covered on the top with flat lands, from whence there is an extenfive and delightful profpecL In the firft ftory are two noble rooms, one of which is a fmall armoury for the fea-fervice, it having various forts of arms very otrioufly laid up, for above ten thou- fand feamen. In the other room are many clofets and prefles, all filled with warlike engines and inftruriients of death. Over this are two other floors, one princi- pally filled with arms, the other with arms and other warlike inftruments, as fpades, fhovels, pick-axes, and cheveaux de frize. In the upper ftory are kept match, fheep-fkins, tanned hides, &c. and in a little room, called Julius Csefar's Chapel, are depofited fome re- cords, containing perhaps the ancient ufages and cuftoms of the place. In this building are alfo preferved models of the new invented engines of deftruction that have from time to time been pre fen ted to the government. O11 the top of one of the towers is a large ciftern or refervoir for fupplying the whole garrifon with water : it is about feven feet deep, nine broad, and about fixty in length, and is filled from the Thames by means of an engine very ingenioufly contrived for that purpofe. Near the fouth-weft angle of the White Tower is the Spanifh armoury, in which are depofited the fpoils of what was vainly called the Invincible Armada, in order to perpetuate to lateft pofterity the memory of that fignal victory obtained by the Englifh over the whole naval power of Spain in the reign of Philip II. which will ever render the glorious name of queen Elizabeth dear to Britons: for of one hundred and thirty-two fhips that arrived in the Britifh channel, fcarce feventy of them returned home; and of thirty thoufand men on board, upwards of twenty thoufand were either killed, drowned, or made prifoners in England. Such was the fate of this vain-glorious enterprize ! You now come to the grand ftorehoufe, a noble building to the northward of the White Tower, that extends two hundred and forty-five feet in length, and fixty in breadth. It was begun by king James II. who buiit it to the firft floor; but it was finifhed by kinc William III. who erected that magnificent room called the New, or Small Arrnouiy, in which that prince, with queen Mary his confort, dined in great form, hav- ing all the warrant workmen and labourers to attend them, drefied in white gloves and aprons, the ufual badges of the order of mafonry. This ftructure is of brick and ftone 5 and on the north fide is a ftately door-cafe, adorned with four columns, with their entablature and triangular pediment of the Doric order ; and under the pediment are the king's arms, with enrichments of trophy work To the Small Armoury you are led by a folding door adjoining to the eaft end of the Tower chapel, which leads to a grand ftair-cafe of fifty eafy fteps. On the left fide of the uppermoft landing-place is the work- lhop, in which are conftantly employed about fourteen furbifhers, in cleaning, repairing, and new-placing the arms. On entering the armoury, you fee what they call a wildernefs of arms, fo artfully difpofed, that at one view you behold arms for near eighty thoufand men, all bright, -and fit for fervice at a moment's warning : a fight which it is impoflible to behold without aftonifh- menu M.I DDL E S E X, y ir.cnt ; and be fides thofe expofed to view, there were, before the prefent war, fixteen chefrs fet up, each cheft holding about twelve hm dred mufkets. Of the dilpo- fttion of the arms no adequate idea can be formed by ddcription ; but the following account may enable the fpectator to view them to greater advantage, and help him to retain what he fees. The arms were originally difpofed in this manner by Mr. Harris, who contrived to place them in this beau- tiful order, both here and in the guard-chamber of Hampton Court. He was a common gunfmith, but after he had performed this work, which is the admira- tion of people of all nations, he was allowed a penfion from the crown for his ingenuity. The north and fouth walls are each adorned with ei^ht pilafters, formed of pikes fixteen fret long, with capitals of the Corinthian order compofed of piftols. At the weft end, on the left hand, as you enter, are two curious pyramids of piftols, ftancnng upon crowns, globes, and fceptres, finely carved, and placed upon pe- deftals five feet high. At theeaft, or farther end, in the oppofite corner, are two fuits of armour, one made for that warlike prince, Henry V. and the other for his fon, Henry VI. over each cf which is a femicircleof piftols : between thefe is reprefented an organ, the large pipes compofed of brafs blunderbuiTes, the fmall of piftols. On one fide of the organ is the reprefentaticn of a fiery ferpent, the head and tail of carved work, and the body of piftols winding round in the form of a fnake ; and on the other an hydra, whofe feven heads are artfully combined by links of piftols. Upon the ground floor under the fmall armoury, is a large room of equal dimenfions with that, fupported by tventy pillars, all hung round with implements of war. This room, which is twenty-four feet hi^h, has a paf- fage in the middle fixteen feet wide. At the fight of fuch a variety of the moft dreadful engines of deftruction, before whofe thunder the moft fuperb edifices, the nobleft works of art, and numbers of the human fpecies, fall together in one common un- diftinguifhed ruin, one cannot help wifhing, that thefe horrible inventions had ftill lain, like a falfe conception, in the womb of nature, never to have been ripened into birth. But when, on the other hand, we confider, that with us they are not ufed to anfwer the purpofes of am- bition ; but for felf-defence, and in the protection of ourjuft rights, our terror fubfides, and we view thefe engines of devastation with a kind of folemn compla- cency, as the means providence has put into our hands for our prefervation. The Horfe Armoury is a plain brick building a little to the eaftward of the White Tower ; and is an edifice rather convenient than elegant, where the fpecbator is entertained with a reprefentation of thofe kings and he- roes of our own nation with whofe gallant actions it is to be fuppofed he is well acquainted : fome of them equipped and fitting on horfeback, in the fame bright and lhining armour they were ufed to wear when they performed thofe glorious actions that give ihem a diflin- guifhed place in the Biitifh annals. In afcending the ftair-cafe, juft as you come to the landing-place, on cafting your eye into the room, you fee the figure of a grenadier in his acoutrements, as if upon duty, with his piece refted upon his arm ; which is fo well dene, that at the firft glance you will be apt to miftake it for real life. When you enter the room, your conductor prefents to your notice the figures of the horfe and foot on your left hand, fuppofed to be drawn up in military order, to attend the kings on the other fide of the houfe. Thefe figures are as big as the life, and have been lately new painted. You now come to the line of kings, which your con- ductor begins by reverfing the order of chronology ; fo that in following them we muft place the laft firft. I. His late majefty king George I. in a complete fuit of armour, fitting with a truncheon in his hand on a white horfe richly caparifoned, having a fine Turkey bridle gilt, with a globe, crefcent and ftar; velvet furni- ture laced with gold, and gold trappings. 2. King William III. drefild in the firft cf armour worn by Edward the Black Prince, fon to Edward III. at the glorious battle of Crefiey. He is mounted on a forrel horfe, whofe furniture is green velvet embroidered with filver, and holds in his right hand a fiamino- fword . 3. King Charles II. dreffied in the armour worn by the champion of England at the coronation of his pre- fent majefty. He fits with a truncheon in his hand, on a fine horfe richly caparifoned, with crimfon velvet laced with gold. 4. King Charles I. in a rich fuit of his own armour gilt, and curioufly wrought, prefented to him by the city of London when he was prince of Wales, and is the fame that was laid on the coffin at the funeral pro- ceffinn of the late great duke of Marlborough, on which occafion a collar of SS was added to it, and is now round it. 5. James I. who fits on horfeback dreffed in a com- plete (hit of figured armour, with a truncheon in his right hand. 6. King Edward VI. drelTed in a curious fuit of fteel armour, whereon are depicted, in different compartments, a great variety of fcripture hiflories. He firs, like the reft, on horfeback, with a truncheon in his hand. 7. King Henry VIII. in his own armour, which is of polifhed fteel, with the foliages gilt or inlaid with gold. He holds a fword in his right hand. 8. King Henry VII. who alfo holds a fword. He fits on horfeback in a complete fuit of armour finely wrought, and wafhed with filver. 9. King Edward V. who, with his brother Richard, ' was fmothered in the Tower ; and having been pro- claimed king, but never crowned, a crown is hung over his head. He holds a lance in his right hand, and is dreffed in a rich fuit of armour. 10. King Edward IV. father to the two unhsppy princes above-mentioned, is diftinguifhed bv a fuit of bright armour ftudded. He holds a drawn fword in his hand. v 11. King Henry VI. who. though crowned king of France at Paris, loft that kingdom, and was at laft mur- dered in the Tower by the duke of Gloucefter, after- wards Richard III. 12. The victorious Henry V. who, by his conquefts in France, caufed himfelf to be acknowledged regent, and prcfumptive heir to that kingdom. 13. Henry IV. the fon of John of Gaunt. 14. Kinu; Edward III. John of Gaunt's father, and father to Edward the Black Prince, is reprefented here with a venerable beard, and in a fuit of plain bright armour, with two crowns on his fword, alluding to his being crowned king both of France and England. 15. King Edward I. drefted in a very curious fuit of gilt armour, and iij fhoes of mail. He has a battle-ax: in his hand. 16. William the Conqueror, the firft in the line, though laftfhewn, fits in a fuit of plain armour. 17. Over the door where you go out of the armoury, is a target, on which are engraved, by a mafterly hand, the figures, as it fhould feem, of juftice, Fortune, and Fortitude} and round the room the walls are every where lined with various uncommon pieces of old r.r- mour, for horfes heads and breafts, targets, and many pieces that now want a name. The Mint is an office kept in the Tower for coining money. Before the Norman conqueft the kings of England fet apart certain monafteries for Mints; pre- fuming that the coinage would in thofe places be befb fecured from frauds and corruption. Edward I. how» - ever ordered a mint of thirty furnaces to be eredled in the Tower of London, and others in Canterbury, Kingfton upon Hull, Ncwxaftle upon Tyne, Briftol and Exeter. From that time the mint v/as kept fometimes in one place, and fometimes in another, uccording to the will 2nd pieafure of the prince, who, for a fum of money, was frequently prevailed upon to grant the privilege of coining to fome nobleman, bifhop, or corporation; which being attended with many inconveniencies to the public, queen Elizabeth, in the beginning of her reign, endeavoured MIDDLESEX. endeavoured to rectify thofe abates, by confining the Mint to the Tower of London, which has ever fince been appropriated t>> the coinage of money, except when king Charles I. by the con fun - on of the times, was obliged to ereSE new Mints at Oxford, York, and New- ark upon Trent;, where being with his army, he was reduced to the neceffity of coining money to fupply his prefent wants: and when king William Ifl. having tailed in all the bafe and clipped money, for the fake of expedition, and for the fervice of diftant parts of the nation, was obliged to erect Mints at Brtftol, Exeter, York and Winchefter. The Mint Office is on the left hand on entering into he Tower, and at a fmall diftance from the gate. There is no poffib'tlity of describing the particular proceffes that the diiTerent metals undergo before they receive the imprefnon. The manner of damping is all you are permitted to fee, and this is done with furpri/,ing expedition, by means of an engine, v/orked fometimes by" three, and fomctimc-s by four men. The manner of making the irhpreflion cm gold, filver, and copper, is exactly the fame, oniy a little more care is neceffary in the one, than the other, to prevent wafte. This engine, which makes the impreffion on both fides of a piece of money, in the fame moment, works by a worm fcrew terminating in fpindle; juft in the fame manner as the letter prefs for printirg books. To the point of this fpindle the head of the die is faftened by a fmall fdrew, and in a little fort of a cup directly Ufiderneath it, is placed the reverfe. Between thefe the piece of metal already cut round, or caft to the fize, and if gold, exactly weighed, is placed ; and by once pulling down the fpindle with a jerk, is completely flamped. The whole procefs is performed with amazing dexterity; for as faft as the men who work the engine can turn the fpindle, fo faft does another twitch out with his middle finger that which was flamped, while with his finger and thumb he places another that is unftamped. The filver and gold thus flamped, are delivered to be milled round the edges, the manner of performing which is a fecret never (hewn to any body. The Mint is managed by feveral officers formed into a corporation. Thefe are a warden, a mafter and work- er, a comptroller, the king's affay mafter, the chief engraver, the furveyor of the meltings, a clerk of the irons, a weigher and teller, a provoft, melters, blanch- crs, monyers, &c. The Jewel office in the Tower, is a dark ftrong ftone room, about twenty vards to the eaftward of the grand ftorehoufe or new armoury, in which the crown jewels are depofited. It is not certain v/hether they were al- ways kept here, though they have been depofited in the Tower from very ancient times, and we have fufficient proof ©f their being in that fortrefs lb early as the reign of king Henry III. The jewels at this time fhewn to all who chufe to give a milling for feeing them, or eighteen pence for a company, are: I. The imperial crown, with which it is pretended ■that all the kings of England have been crowned fince Edward the Confeffor, in 1042. It is of gold, enriched with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, faphires and pearls': the cap within is of purpie velvet, lined with white taf- fetv, turned up with three rows of ermine. They are however miftaken in (hewing this as the ancient impe- rial diadem of St. Edward; for that, with the other moft ancient regalia of this kingdom, was kept in the arched room in the cloyfters in Weftminfter Abbey, till the grand rebellion; when in 1642, Harry Martin, by order of the parliament, broke open the iron cheft in which it was fecured, took it thence, and fold it, together with the robes, fword, and fceptre of St. Edward. However after the reftoration, king Charles II. had one made in imitation of it, which is that now fhewn. II. The golden orb or globe put into the king's right hand before he is crowned ; and borne in his left with the fceptre in his right, upon his return into Weftmin- fter Hail, after he is crowned. It is about fix inches in diameter, edged with pearl, and enriched with precious 15 157 flones. On the top is r.n nmethyft, of a voik t colour, near an inch and an half in height, let with a riche'rofs of gold, adorned with diamonds, pearls, and precious flones. The whole height of the ball and cup is eleven inches. III. The golden fceptre, with its crofs let upon a large amcthyft of great value, garnifhed round with table dia- monds. The handle of the fceptre is plain ; but the pummel is let round with rubies, emeralds, and fmall diamonds. The top ri'es into a flucr de lis of fix leaves, all enriched with precious flones, from whence iflues a mound or ball made of the amcthyft already mentioned. The crofs is quite covered with precious ftones. IV. The fceptre with the dove, the emblem of peace, perched on the top of a fmall Jerufalem crofs, finely or- namented with table diamonds and jewels of great value. This emblem was firfl uled by Edward the Confeffor, as appears by his feal ; but the ancient fceptre and dove was fold with the reft of the regr.lia, and this now in the Tower was made after the reftoration. V. St. Edward's ftafF, four feet feven inches and an half in length, and three inches three quarters in'circum- ference, ail of beaten gold, which is carried before the king at the coronation. VI. The rich crown of ftate worn by his majefty in parliament ; in which is a large emerald feven inches round ; a pearl efteemed the fineft in the world, and a ruby of ineftimable value. VIL The crown belonging to his royal highnefs the prince of Wales. Thefe two laft crowns, when his majefty goes in ftate to the Parliament houfe, are carried by the keeper of Jewel office, attended by the wardens, privately in a hackney coach to Whitehall, where they are delivered to the officers appointed to receive them, who with fome yeomen of the guard carry them to the robing rooms adjoining to the houfe of lords, where his majefty and the prince of Wales put on their robes. The king wears this crown on his head while he fit upon the throne ; but that of the prince of Wales is placed before him, to (hew that he is not yet come to it. 'As foon as the king is difrobed, the two crowns are carried back to the Tower by the pcrfons who brought them thence, and again locked up in the Jewel-office. VIII. The late queen Mary's crown, globe and fcep- tre, with the diadem (he wore at her coronation with her confort king William III. IX. An ivory fceptre with a dove on the top, made for the late king James the fecond's queen, whofe gar- niture is gold, and the dove on the top gold, enamelled with white. X. The curtana, or fword of mercy, which has a blade thirty two inches long, and near two broad, is without a point, and is borne naked before the king at his coronation, between the two fvvords of juflice, fpiri- tual and temporal. XI. The golden fpurs, and the armillas, which are bracelets for the wrifts. Thefe, tho' very antique, are worn at the coronation. XII. The ampulla or eagle of gold, finely engraved, which holds the holy oil the kings and queens of Eng- land are anointed with; and the golden fpoon that the bifhop pours the oil into. Thefe are two pieces of great antiquity. The golden eagle, including the pedeftal, is about nine inches high, and the wings expand a- bout feven inches. The whole weighs about ten ounces The head of the eagle fcrews off about the middle of the neck, which is made hcllow, for holding the holy oil ; and when the king is anointed by the bifhop, the oil is poured into the fpoon out of the bird's bill. The following legend is told of this eagle. Thomas Becket being in difgrace at Sens in France, the holy Virgin appeard to him, and gave him a ftone veffel of oil inclofed in a golden eagle, and bid him give it to William a monk, to carry to Pidtavia, and there hide it under a great ftone, in St. Gregory's church, where it (hould be found for the ufe of pious and profperous kings : accordly Henry III. when duke of Lancafter, received it from a holy man in France ; and Richard II. finding it among other jewels, endeavoured to be anoint- ed with it; .but was fupplanted by Archibald Arundel, ✓ S s vvho 158 M I D D who afterwards anointed Henry IV. Such is the fabu- lous hillory of the ampulla. XIII. A rich falt-feller of ftate, in form like the fquare White Tower, and fo exquifitely wrought that the workmanfhip of modern times is in no degree equal to it. It is of gold, and ufed only on the king's table at the coronation. XIV. A large filver font, double gilt, and elegantly wrought, in which the royal family are chriftened. XV. A large hlver fountain, prefented to king Charles II. by the town of Plymouth, very curioufly wrought ; but much inferior in beauty to the above. Beiides thefe, which are commonly {hewn, there are in the Jewel-office all the crown jewels worn by the prince and princefl'es at coronations, and a vail variety of curious old plate. This office is governed by a mafter, who has four hun- dred and fifty pounds a year patent fees ; two yeomen, who have one hundred and fix pounds, fifteen (hillings per annum each; a groom, who has one hundred and five pounds, eight fhillings and four pence a year, and a clerk. The principal officers of the Tower are, a conftable, a lieutenant, and a deputy-lieutenant. Belonging to the Tower there are eleven hamlets, the militia of which, confifting of four hundred men, are obliged, at the command of the conftable of the Tower, to repair thither, and reinforce thegarrifon. On 1 Little Tower-hill is the Victualling-office, for furnifhing his majefty's navy with victuals. It is fepa- rated from Tower-hill by a wall and gates, and contains houfes for the officers, ftore-rooms, flaughter-houfes, a brew-houfe, a falting-houfe and a barrclling-houfe, under the direction of feven commiffioners, and other inferior officers. Near Tower-hill is the Navy-office, where all affairs relating to the royal navy are managed by the commif- fioners under the lords of the admiralty. This is a very plain, but convenient building. The office where the commiffioners meet, and the clerks keep their books, is detached from the reft, as a precaution againft accidents by fire, the papers here being of the utmoft importance. In the other part of the building, fome of the commif- fioners, and other officers, refide. In Toward-ward is alio the Cuftom-houfe, erected for the receipt of his majefty's cuftoms on goods import- ed and exported. It is a large, handfome, and commo- dious building fituated on the bank of the Thames. In ancient times the bufinefs of the Cuftom-houfe was tranfacted in a more irregular manner at Billingfgate : but in the reign of queen Elizabeth a building was erect- ed here for this purpofe; for in the year 1559, an a & being palled that goods fhould be no where landed, but in fuch places as were appointed by the commiffioners of the revenue, this was the fpot fixed upon for the en- tries in the port of London, and here a Cuftom-houfe was ordered to be erected; it was however deftroyed by fire with the reft of the city in 1666, and was rebuilt with additions two years after by king Charles II. in a much more magnificent and commodious manner, at the expence of ten thoufand pounds, but that being alfo de- ftroyed in the fame manner in 17 18, the prefent ftruc- ture was erected in its place. This edifice is built with brick and ftone, and is cal- culated to ftand for ages. It has underneath and on each fide, large warehoufes for the reception of goods on the public account, and that fide of the Thames for a great extent is filled with wharfs, keys, and cranes for land- ing them. The Cuftom-houle is one hundred and eighty-nine feet in length : the center is twenty-feven feet deep, and the wings conliderably more. The cen- ter Hands back from the river ; the wings approach much nearer to if, and the building is judxioully and hand- fomcly decorated with the orders of architecture : under the wings is a colonade of the Tufcan order, and the upper ftory is ornamented with Ionic columns and pe- diments. It confifts of two floors, in the uppermoft of which is a manificent room fifteen feet high, that runs almoft the whole jength of the building : this is called ihe Long-room, and here fit the commiffioners of the L E S E X. cuftoms, with their officers and clerks. The inner part is well difpofed, and fufficiently enlightened ; and the entrances are fo well contrived, as to anfwer the pur- pofes of convenience. It is oblervable that in the year 1590, the cui^oms and fubfidies in the port of London inwards, wbre let to farm to Mr. Thomas Smith, for twenty thoufand pounds per annum, when it was difcovered that they amounted an- nually to thirty thoufand three hundred and nine pounds, fo that queen Elizabeth loft every year ten thoufand three hundred and nine pounds ; but by the vaft increafe of commerce fince that time, they at prefent bring in above an hundred times as much, the cuftoms now annually amounting to above two millions ; and yet this immenfe bufinefs is tranfacted with as much order and regularity, as the common affairs of a merchant's compting-houfe. The government of the Cuftom-houfe is under the care of nine commiffioners, who are entrufted with the whole management of all his majefty's cuftoms in all the ports of' England, the petty farms excepted, and alio the overfight of all the officers belonging to them. Each of thefe commiffioners has a falary of one thoufand pounds a year ; and both they, and feveral of the prin- cipal officers under them, hold their places by patent from the king. The other officers are appointed by war- rant from the lords of the treafury. Lime-ftreet ward is remarkable for a very large build- ing,- of great antiquity, called Leadenhall, with flat battlements leaded on the top, and a fpacious fquare in the middle. In this edifice are warehoufes for the fale of leather, Colchefter baize, meal, and wool. Ad- joining to Leadenhall is a market, thence called Leaden hall Market, confifting of five confiderable fquares or courts, and reckoned one of the greateft markets in Europe for fielh and other provifions, alio for leather, green hides, and wool. In Broad-ftrcet ward was Grefham College, founded agreeable to the will of Sir Thomas Grefham, dated in July 1575, for lectures in divinity, aftronorny, geo- metry, civil law, rhetoric, phyfic, and mufic. Here was a profeftbr cf each fcience, with a falary of fifty pounds per annum. The building was of brick, and is covered with llate, inclofing a court of one hundred and torty-four feet fquare. It had a large hall for the public lectures, and commodious apartments for the feveral profeflbrs. But it has long been complained, that this noble inftitution was infamouily perverted, having been of late confidered as a provifion for obfeure and neceffi-* tous perfons, totally ignorant of their profeffion. The mayor and commonality of the city of London, together with the mercers company, are the truftees. The ftruc- ture is now taken down, and a new office for the Excife erecting on the fpot. Near Grefham College, and in the fame ward, is the Pay-office of the royal navy, under the direction of a treafurer and paymafter. In this ward is alfo the Bank of England, a ftone building, confifting of two quadrangles, begun in 1732, and finifhed in 1735. The principal front is about eighty feet in length, and is of the Ionic order, raifed on a ruftic bafement, in a good ftile. The top is adorned with a baluftrade, and handfome vafes. In the firft or exterior court is the hall, which is of the Corinthian order, and is feventy-five feet long and forty broad : it is wainfeotted about eight feet high, has a fine fret-work cieling, and a ftatue of king William III. with a Latin infeription. On the eaft and weft fides of the interior court, is an arcade; and on the north fide is the ac- comptants office, which is fixty feet long, and twenty- eight broad. Over this office, and on the other fides, are handfome apartments, with a fine ftair-cafe, adorned with fret-work : and under it are large ftrong vaults., with iron gates, for the prefervation of the money. Very large additions have b.en lately made to this edi- fice, and a new ftreet is opened before it, which fhows the front to great advantage. The Bank is under the government of a governor, a deputy-governor, and twenty-four directors, eftablifhed by act of parliament in 1693, by the title of the Governor and Company of the Back of England. M I D D L E S E X. The Royal Exchange, which is the hurfe or meeting- place of the merchants or" London, Hands in the ward of Cornhill, and is the fineft and ftrongeft fabric of the kind in Europe. It was fxtft built of brick, in 1567, at the expence of Sir Thomas Grefham; and in 157c, Was proclaimed the Royal Exchange, in a folemn man- ner, bv herald with found of trumpet, at the command, and in the prefance of queen Elizabeth. That ftructure being deftroyed by the fire of London in ] 666, it was rebuilt of Portland Hone, and ruftic work, in a much more magnificent manner,- as it now ftands, at the ex- pence of eighty thoufand pounds. Of this building king Charles II. laid the firft ftone in 1667, and it was finished in 1669. The whole is a parallelogram, two hundred and three feet in length, and one hundred and feventy-one feet in breadth, inclofmg an area one hun- dred and forty-four feet long, and one hundred and feventeen feet broad. This area is furroundrd with piazzas, forming ambulatories for the merchants to fhel- ter themfelves from the weather. The area is paved with fine pebbles, and the ambulatories with black and white marble. Upon a marble pedeftal, in the centre of the area, is a fine ftatue of king Charles II. in a Ro- man habit, fet up at the charge of the merchant-adven- turers, in 1684 Uunder the piazzas within the Ex- change are twenty-eight niches, all vacant except two; one in the north-weft angle, where is the ftatue of Sir Thomas Grefham; and the other at the fouth-weft, in which is a ftatue of Sir John Barnard, a magiftrate of exemp'ary virtues, who had twice been lord mayor of the city, and many years reprefented it in parliament. Above the arches of thefe piazzas is an entablature, with curious enrichments ; and on the cornice a range of pilafters, with an entablature, extending round, and a compafs pediment in the middle of the cornice of each of the four fides. In the inter-columns are twenty-four niches, nineteen of which are filled with the ftatues of the kings and queens of England, from king Edward I. to his prefent maiefty, all adorned with the enfigns of royalty, except thofe of king Charles II. king James II. king George III. and king George II. which are habited like~the- emperors of Rome. In each of the two prin- cipal fronts of this building, on the fouth and north, is a piazza, and in the middle of each is an entrance into the area, under an arch, which is extremely coftly and magnificent. On each fide of the fouth entrance, in the inter-columns, is a niche, one containing a ftatue of king Charles I. and the other a ftatue of Charles II. both drefted in Roman habits, and well executed. With- in the piazzas of thefe two fronts, are two fpacious ftair-cafes, with iron rails, and black marble fteps, which lead into a kind of gallery, that extends round the four fides of the building, in which weod library of clafiic authors, the gift of the gentle- men that have been educated at this fchool. In Warwick-lane, in this ward, ftands the College of Phyficians, erected in 1682 by Sir Chriftopher Wren. It is built of brick, with a fpacious ftcne frontifpiece, and is a beautiful and magnificent ftructure, but fo fur- rounded with other buildings, that it can fcarce be feen. Befides a hall, where two of the fellows of the college meet twice a week, to give advice and difperfe medicines gratis to the poor, here is a committee-room, and a great hall, where all the members meet quarterly, adorned with paintings and fculptures. Here alfo is a theatre for anatomical dilTections, a room for preparations, and conveniencies to dry herbs for the ufe of the difpenfary. In the front of the hall, towards the court, is a good ftatue of king Charles II. cut in ftone ; another of Sir John Cutler, on the weft fide of the theatre ; and in June 1739, a fine marble buft was erected in the great hall, in honour of the famous Dr. Harvey, at the exr pence of the late Dr. Mead, phyfician to his late ma- jefty. Here alfo is a good library. * Near the fouth extremity of the Old Bailey, on the eaft fide, is the hall built by the company of furgeons, with a theatre for dilTection and lectures in anatomy. In this ward, and adjoining to a church called Chrift's Church, in Newgate -ftreet, is Chrift's Hofpital, which, before the diflblution of monafteries by Henry VIII. was a houfe of Grey-friars. The hofpital was founded by king Edward VI. for fupporting and educating the fatherlefs children of poor freemen of this city, of which one thoufand of both fexes are generally maintained in the houfe, or out at nurfe, and are befides cloathed and educated. This hofpital was opened in November 1552, when king Edward incorporated the mayor, commonalty and citizens of London, as governors of the eftates of this, as well as of the other hofpitals founded by him. In 1673, a mathematical fchool was founded here by king Charles II. and endowed with three hundred and feventy pounds a year ; and a writing-fchool was erected here in 1694, by Sir John Moor, knight and alderman. After the boys have been feven or eight years on the foundation, fome are fent to the univerfity, others to fea ; while the reft, about the age of eighteen years, are put apprentices to mechanic trades, at the charge of the hofpital. Their habit was at firft a ruflet cotton, but it was foon after changed for blue, which has continued ever fince, and this foundation is on that account frequently called the Blue-coat Hofpital. The affairs of this charity are managed by a prefident, and about three hundred go- vernors, befides the lord mayor and aldermen, who ap- point a treafurer, a regifter, and two clerks ; a phyfi- cian, a furgeon, fteward, cook, porter, four beadles, a matron, and eleven nurfes. The building, which is partly Gothic, and partly modern, was much damaged by the fire in 1666, but was foon repaired, and has been fince augmented with feveral new ftructures. The principal buildings, which form the four fides of an area, have a piazza round them, with Gothic arches, and the walls are fupported by abutments. The front of the building is, however, more modern, and has Doric pilafters, fupported on pedcftals. An old clorfter, which was part of the priory, is ftill ftanding. In Caftle Baynard ward is a fpacious and commodious ftruclure, called Doctors Commons, it confifts of fe- veral M I D D veral handfome paved courts, in which the judges of the court of admiralty, thofe of the court of delegates, of the court of arches and the prerogative court, with the doctors that plead caufes, and the proctors that draw up the pleadings in thefe courts, all live in a collegiate vvey ; and from commoning together, as in other col- leges, the name Doctors Commons was derived. This is a college for the ftudy and practice of the civil law, where courts are kept for the trial of civil and ecclefi- aftical caufes, under the archbifhop of Canterbury and the bifhop of London. Here is a fine library, in a moft flourifhing condition ; for every bifhop, at his confe- cration, gives twenty or fifty pounds towards purchafing books for it. Near Doctors Commons, on St. Bennet's Hill, is the college of Heralds, who were incorporated by king Richard HI. the chief officer of which is the earl mar- thai of England. Here are three kings at arms, Garter, Clarencieux, and Norroy, with fix heralds, four pur- fuivants, and eight proctors. Garter attends the inftal- ment of knigtts of that order, carries the garter to fo- reign princes, regulates the ceremonies at coronations? and the funerals of the royal family and nobility ; Cla- rencieux orders the ceremonies of the funerals of thofe under the degree of peers, fouth of Trent ; and Norroy performs the like office for thofe north of Trent. This building was originally the palace of the earls of Derby, and failing to the crown, was given by Edward VI. in 1552, to the kings at arms, heralds, purfuivants, and their fucceffors. It is a neat fpacious quadrangle, built of brick, with convenient apartments, a good library relating to heraldry and antiquities, and a handfome court-room, where the earl marfhal or his deputy hears caufes that lie in the court of honour, and determines differences about arms, atchievements, and titles. In this college are kept records of the coats of arms of all the families and names in England, when granted, and on what occaiion. In Farringdon-ward without, and at the extremity of the liberties of this city, weftwards, there was anciently a row of pofts, with rails, and a chain crofs the ftreet, called Temple Bar, from its fituation, beina contiguous to the Middle Temple, one of the inns of court : a wooden building was afterwards erected crofs the ftreet inftead of the bar, with a narrow gateway ; and in the year 1670, the prefent ftructure was erected, which is 1 ftill called by the old name, Temple Bar. It refembles a triumphal arch, and is built entirely of Portland ftone of the Corinthian order, with ruftic work below : over the gateway, on the eaft fide, in two niches, are ftone ftatues of king James I. and his queen ; and on the weft fide are the ftatues of king Charles I, and king Charles II. in Roman habits. In this ward are feveral inns of court and chancery, particularly the Inner and Middle Temples, Serjeants Inn, Clifford's Inn, Thavy's Inn, Barnard's Inn, Sta- ple's Inn, and FurnivaPs Inn. The Temple was fo called from its having been ori- ginally founded by the Knights Templars, who fettled here in 11 85. It was at firft called the New Temple, by way of diftinction from the Old Temple, or the firft houfe of the Knights Templars, which ftood in Hol- born, over againft Chancery-lane, and from which, on its becoming too fmall for them, they removed hither. The original building was divided into three parts, the Inner, the Middle, and the Outward Temple : the Inner and the Outer Temple were fo called, becaufe one was within and one without the Bar, and the Middle Temple derived its name" from its fituation between them. After the diflblution of the order of Knights Templars, the New Temple fell to the Knights Hofpi- talers of St. John of Jerufalem, who granted a leafe of it to the ftudents of the common law, and converted that part of it called the Inner and Middle Temple, into two inns of court, for the ftudy and practice of the common law ; the Outer Temple became a houfe for the earl of Effex ; and on the fite of that houfe a ftreet has been fince built, called Effex-ftreet. The buildings of the Temple efcaped the fire in 1666, but were moft of them deftroyed by fubfequent fires, L E S E X, 163 and are now beautifully rebuilt of brick. The two Temples are each divided into feveral courts, and have a very pleafant garden on the bank of the Thames: they are appropriated to feparate focieties, and have fe- parate halls, where the focieties dine in common during term time. The Inner Temple hall is faid to have been built in the reign of king Edward III. and the Middle Temple hall, which is a large magnificent edifice, was rebu:lt in 1572, in form of a college-hall. The gate of the Middle Temple is remarkable for its noble fronts Each fociety has a good library, ado/ned with paintings, and well furnifhed with books. An affembly, called a Parliament, in which the affairs of the fociety of the Inner Temple are managed, is held twice every ternu Both Temples have one church, firft founded in 1 185, by the Knights Templars ; but the prefent edifice is" thought to have been built in 1240. It is one of the moft beautiful Gothic ftructures in England, and is fup- ported by neat (lender pillars of Suffex marble. In this church are many ancient monuments, particularly of nine Knights Templars, cut in marble, in full propor- tion, fome of them feven feet and a half long ; fix are crofs-legged, and therefore fuppofed to have been en- gaged in one of thofe expeditions againft the Turks, called Crufades. The minifter of this church, who is ufuelly called the Mafter of the Temple, is appointed by the benchers, or fenior members of both focieties, and prefented by a patent from the crown. Serjeants Inn is a fmall inn in Chancery-lane, where the judges and ferjeants have chambers, but not houfes, as they had in another inn of this name in Fleet-ftreet, which they abandoned in 1 730 ; but there is a hall and a chapel in each of them. Clifford's Inn is an inn of chancery, belonging to the Inner Temple. It was a houfe granted originally by king Edward II. to the family of the Cliffords, from which it derived its name : it was afterwards leafed to the ftudents of the law ; and in the reign of king Ed- ward III. fold to the principals and fellows of this fociety. Thavy's Inn is an inn of chancery, belonging to Lin- coln's Inn, another inn of court : it ftands near St. An- drew's church in Holborn^ and was the houfe of Mr, John Thavy in the reign of Edward HI. and by him, from whom it took its name, let out to the ftudents of the law, who lived here before they had the Temple. It came afterwards to Mr. Gregory Nichols, a citizen and mercer of London, who fold it, in 1549, to the benchers of Lincoln's Inn, and their fucceflbrs demifed it to the principal and fellows of this houfe. This inn was lately rebuilt in a very handfome manner. Barnard's Inn is an inn of chancery, belonging to Gray's Inn, another inn of court : it is fituated alfo in Holborn, and was the houfe of John Mackworth, dean of Lincoln, who gave it to the profeffors of the law. Staples Inn belongs alfo to Gray's Inn, and ftands in Holborn : it was once a hall for the merchants of the ftaple for wool, whence it had its name ; but it was bought by the benchers of Gray's Inn, and has been an inn of chancery ever fince the year 1415. Furnival's Inn is an inn of chancery, belonging to Lincoln's Inn, and was once the houfe of the family of Furnivals, from which it derived its name. This fa- mily let it out to the profeffors of the law. It is a large handfome old building, and has a hall and a pleafant garden. In a ftreet in this ward, called the Old Bailey, there is a hall called Juftice-hall, or the Seffions-houfe, where a court is held eight times a year by the king's com- miffion of oyer and terminer, for the trial of criminals for offences committed within the city of London and county of Middlefex. The judges of this court are the lord major, the aldermen who have been lord mayors, and the recorder, who are attended by the fheriffs, and by one or more of the national judges. This hall is a plain brick edifice, that has nothing to recommend it. In this ward . is likewife a prifon, called the Fleet Prifon, from a fmall river called the Fleet which for- merly run by it. This prifon is very large, and reckon- ed the beft in the city for good rooms and other conve- niences ; 164 MIDDLESEX. niencies: it has the benefit of an open yard, which is enclofed with a very high wall : it is as ancient as the reign of Richard I. It belongs to the court of Com- mon Pleas, and hither perfons are committed for con- tempt of the courts of Chancery or Common Pleas, or for debt, when by writ of habeas corpus they remove themfelves to it from any other prifon. In Chancery-lane, in this ward, is an office, con- fifting of a houfe and chapel, called the Office and Chapel of the Rolls, from being the great repofitory of the modern public rolls and records of the kingdom. This building was originally the houfe of an eminent Jew ; but being forfeited to the crown, king Henry III. in the year 1223,, converted it into an hofpital for the reception and accommodation of Jewilh and other pro- felytes. Edward III. in 1377, granted this hofpital and its chapel to William Burltall, mafter of the rolls, to whofe fucceflbrs, in that office, it has belonged ever fince. The manfion-houfe of the mafter of the rolls being much decayed, was lately rebuilt in a very magni- ficent manner, with hewn ftone and brick. The chapel is partly a Gothic ftru£ture, and here the rolls are kept in prefies fixed to the fides of the chapel, and ornamented with columns and pilafters of the Ionic and Compofite orders. In this chapel is a bench, where the mafter of the rolls hears caufes in chancery, and here divine fervice is performed regularly. The records, when they become too voluminous for this chapel to contain, are removed to the office of the records in the Tower. There is a certain diftri£l round this office, confifting of about two hundred houfes, which is called the Liberty of the Rolls, and over which the city has no authority, being under the government of the mafter of the Rolls. In this ward is a large building, called Bridewell, from a fpring formerly known by the name of St. Bridget's, or St. Bride's Well. It was originally a royal paiace, and took up all the ground from Fleet-ditch on the eaft, to Water-lane on the weft : part of it, now called Sa- lisbury Court, was given to the bifhops of Salifbury for their city manfion ; and the eaft part, which was rebuilt by king Henry VIII. is that now called Bridewell. This pakce king Edward Vi. gave to the city for an hofpital, which he endowed for the lodging of poor wayfaring people, and the correction of vagabonds, ftrumpets, and idle perfons, and for finding them work. This edifice was burnt down in the fire of London, in 1666, but it was rebuilt in 1668, and is now a fpacious and commodious ftructure, confifting of two courts, and having two fronts, one to the eaft, and anoth?; to the north, in each of which is a handfome gate. Here is alfo a chapel, and a hall for the court-room. In one part of the building, twenty decayed artificers have houfes ; and about one hundred and fifty boys, diftinguifhed by white hats and blue doublets, are put apprentices to glovers, flax-drefiers, weavers, &c. and, when they have ferved their time, are entitled to the freedom of the city, and ten pounds each towards car- rying on their refpeclive traces. The other part of Bridewell is a prifon, and a houfe of correction for dif- orderly fervants, vagrants, and ftrumpets, who are made to beat hemp, and are kept at other hard labours. All the affairs of this hofpital are managed bv governors, who are above three hundred in number, beiides the lord mayor and court of aldermen. The governors of this hofpital are likewife governors of Bethlehem hofpital, becaufe thefe two hofpitals are but one corporation ; be- fides the fame governors, they have the fame prefident, clerk, phyl'ician, furgeon, and apothecary. This hof- pital, however, has its own fteward, a porter, a matron, and four beadles. Near Bridewell is St. Bride's Church, which was burnt down in 1666, but rebuilt in 1680. It is aftately fabric, one hundred and eleven feet long, fifty-feven broad, and forty-one high, with a moft beautiful fpire, two hundred and thirty-four feet in heighth, and a ring of no lefs than twelve bells in its tower. By an act of parliament paffed in 1756, the magiftrates of the citv of London have been impewered to erect a itone bridge acrofs the river Thames, from Black Friars, in this ward, to the "oppofite fhore in the county of Surry : they are alfo authorifed to fill up the channel of Fleet Ditch, and to purchafe and remove fuch buildings, the removal of which fhall be thought proper for form- ing and widening ftreets and avenues. This bridge is to have a free paffage through the arches, of feven hundred and fifty feet at leaft, v-ithiti the banks of the river ; a fufficient number of glafs lamps are to be fbced up on proper parts of it, to burn from fun-fetting to fun-rifing, and a number of watch- men ftationed upon it, for the fecurity of paffengcrs. It is to be built according to a plan invented by Mr. Robert Mylne, and the firft ftone of it was laid the thirtieth day of O&ober 1760. Toward ereding and fupporting this bridge, the magiftrates of the ctty of London are to receive certain tolls from it, when finifh- ed; and upon the credit of thefe tolls, they are directed to raife any fum of money, not exceeding thirty thou- fand pounds, in one year, till they have raifed one hun- dred and fixty thoufand pounds in the whole, which they are not to exceed. Weft Smithfield, in this ward, is an area containing three acres of ground, called in ancient records Smith- field Pond, or Horfe Pool, it being formerly a watering- place for horfes ; but the pond being filled up, it became a green level field, faid originally to have been called Smoothfield, of which Smithfield is a corruption. It was anciently the common place of execution ; and at the fouth-weft corner there was a gallows, called the Elms, from a number of elm-trees that then grew in the neighbourhood: it was alfo the place for public joints, tournaments, and triumphs, and has been a market for cattle above five hundred years : it was paved at the re- queft of king James I. and the market held on Mondays and Fridays, for black cattle, fheep, and horfes, is now fo much increafed, that it is the greateft in Europe. On the fouth fide of Smithfield, in this ward, and contiguous to Chrift's Hofpital, is St. Bartholomew's Hofpital. It was firft founded in the fecond year of king Henry I. by Rahere, the king's jefter, as an infir- mary for the priory of St. Bartholomew the Great, which then ftood near this fpot ; but upon the diflblu- tion of religious houfes, king Henry VIII. refounded it, and endowed it with five hundred merks a year, on con- dition that the citizens fhould pay the lame annuity for the relief of one hundred lame and infirm patients ; which was readily accepted, and the managers of the foundation were incorporated by the name of ' The * mayor, commonalty, and citizens of London, go- ' vernors of the hofpital for the poor, called Little St. ' Bartholomew's, near Weft Smithfield.' This charity afterwards received fuch large benefac- tions, that it now takes in the diftrefled of ail countries. In 1702. a beautiful frontifpiece was erected towards Smithfield, adorned with pilafters, entablature, and a pediment of the Ionic order, with a ftatue of king Henry VIII. ftanding in a niche in full proportion, and thofe of two cripples on the top of the pediment over the ftatue. In 1729, a plan was formed for rebuilding the reft of this hofpital, and a magnificent edifice was erected by fubfeription, which was defigned to be only one of four detached piles of buildings to be afterwards raifed, about a court or area two hundred and fifty feet in length, and fixty feet in breadth. The original defign is now entirely completed, and forms an elegant and fuperb building. The governors of this charity are about three hun- dred ; and the officers and fervants are, a prefident, a treafurer, two phyficians, five furgeons, an apothecary, a clerk, a matron, a porter, four beadles, a cook, and her fervant, twenty filters, twelve nurfes, and twenty watchwomen. Thofe who have the immediate care of the hofpital are the prefident, the treafurer, the auditors of the accounts, viewers of the revenues, overfeers of the goods and utenfils of the hofpital, and the almoners or purveyors, who buy in the provisions and other ne- ccflaries. A committee, confifting of the treafurer,. al- moner, and forne of the governors, meet twice a week to infpedt the management of the houfe, difcharge fuch per- fons as are cured, and admit others. For MIDDLESEX. For the reception of fuch psrfons in the venereal dif- i eafe, as might prove offenfive to the reft, there are two j infirmaries belonging to this hofpital, called the Lock Hofpitals, one of which was lately in Kent-irreet, South- ward ; the other is at Kingfland, near Newington, a village on the north fide of London. Among many other privileges which king Henry I. granted to the prior and canons of the monaltery of St. Bartholomew the Great, and to the poor of the infir- mary, was that of keeping a fair in Smithfield on the eve, day, and morrow of St. Bartholomew. This fair, called Bartholomew Fair, has been held annually ever fince, and by the courtefy of the magiftracy of London, to whom the privileges of keeping it de- volved, upon the dillblution of the priory, it uled to continue a fortnight : a great number of booths were cre&ed in it by the principal actors of the theatres, for the exhibition of dramatic performances of various kinds ; and it abounded with places where the rabble were feduced into gaming, by raffles, calculated for the unreafonable profit of the owners. It became at length fo tumultuous and licentious a place, that Sir John Bar- nard, when he was lord mayor of London, reduced the time of the fair to its original duration of three days. This laudable example has been followed ever fmce ; but booths ft ill continued to be built, though for players of a lower clafs, and ftrolling companies from various parts: the fair, though fhort, was for the time a greater nuifance than before; and this year the magiftrates of London very prudently prohibited all drolls, puppet- fhows, and public exhibitions, which there is no reafon to fuppofe will ever be renewed. In Coleman-ftreet ward, on the fouth fide of a large fquare called Moorfields, ftands the hofpital of Beth- lehem, founded in 1675 by the lord mayor and citizens of London, for the reception and cure of poor lunatics. It is a noble edifice, built with brick and ftone, and adorned with pilafters, entablatures, carvings, and fculp- ture, particularly with the figures of two lunatics over the grand gate, which are well executed. This building is five hundred and forty feet in length, forty feet in breadth, and was, not many years ago, augmented with two wings, by the charitable contribu- tion of the citizens, for tne reception of fuch lunatics as were deemed incurable. This hoipital contains a great number of convenient cells or rooms, where the patients are taken care of and maintained without any charge to their friends, except bedding. The whole ftructure, on the infide, is divided into two ftories, through each of which runs a long gallery, from one end of the houle to the other : on the fouth lidc are the cells, and on the north the windows, that give light to the galleries, which are divided, in the middle, by handfome iron grates, to keep the men and women apart. Before the building, on the outfide, is a pieafant garden, inclofed by an high wall, near feven hundred feet in length. Bethlehem hofpital being united to Bridewell hofpital, both are managed by the fame prelident, governors, treafurer, clerk, phyfician, furgeon, and apothecary ; but each has a fteward and inferior officers peculiar to itfelf. But the hofpital of Bethlehem being found incapable of receiving and providing for the relief of all the un- happy objects for whom application was made, a plain building was prepared for them on the north fide of Moorfields, over againft Bethlehem hofpital : this is called St. Luke's Hofpital, and is fupported by private fubtcription. It is under the immediate infpectlon and government of its own patrons and fupporters, aud was opened for the admiffion of lunatics on the thirtieth of Ju;yi75i. Befides the two markets already mentioned at Smith- field, for cattle and hay, and at Leadenhall for butchers meat, wool, hides, and Colchefter baize, there are in this city the following other markets, which are all very confiderable : Honey Lane, Newgate, and Fleet markets ; principally for fiefh, though with Teparate divifions for fun, butter, eggs, poultry, herbs and fruit ; Billingfgate and Fifh-ftreet Hill markets, for fifh only ; and the < Three Cranes market, for apples, and other fruit. The 16 two principal corn-markets are at Bear Key and Queen- hithe ; and at Billingfgate there is alfo a great market for coals. The trade of this vail: and opulent city is almoft co- eval with its foundation. Tacitus, in the fixty-third year of the Chriftian a?ra, reprefents it as celebrated for its great commerce, and the number of its merchants ; and Bede, in 604* teftiiies, that this metropolis had been long famous for being the mart of many nations, that traded hither by fea. It appears from an eftimate, that one fourth of the foreign ■ trade of the nation is carried on at London ; and it has been faid, that the port of London pays two thirds of the cuftoms of all England ; but the vaft com- merce and wealth of London will perhaps beft appear from a view of the incorporated focieties or companies, as well of tradefmen as cf merchants, in this city, and of the fhipping that belongs to its port. The companies of the city of London, or the feveral incorporations of its citizens, in their refpective arts and myfteries, are in number ninety=one, befides feveral other companies or incorporated focieties of merchants. Of thefe ninety-one companies, fifty-two have each a hall for tranfacting the bufinefs of the corporation, which confifts of a mafter, or prime warden, a court of affiftants, and livery. Every youth that ferves an ap- prenticefhip of feven years to a freeman of the city, becomes entitled to his freedom at the expiration of that time; and his name is then inrolled, not only at Guild- hall, as a citizen, but in the books of the company to which his mafter belonged, as free of that particular corporation ; and he becomes liable to pay a fmall fum quarterly for its ufe : he is then a yeoman of the com- pany; and if he becomes confiderable in bufinef;, he is chofen by the corporation a member of their body, and on public occafions is diftinguifhed by a particular drefs, a long black gown, faced with fur : this is the livery of the company, and he is hence called a Livery- man. From the livery are chofen the mafter, wardens, and court of affiftants ; alio the clerk, beadle, and other officers. The fums of money yearly diftributed in cha- rity, by only twenty-three of the ninety-one, amount to twenty-three thoufand, fix hundred and fifty-five pounds, and the number of the liverymen belonging to all the companies are reckoned at eight thoufand two hundred and feventeen. Of thefe companies there are twelve which are fupe- rior to the reft, both in antiquity and wealth ; and of one of thefe twelve, th$ lord mayors have generally made themfelves free at their election, if they were not fo before. Thefe twelve companies are the Mercers, the Grocers, the Drapers, the Fifh-mongers, the Gold- fmiths, the Skinners, the Merchant Taylors, the Ha- berdafhers, the Salters, the Iron-mongers, the Vintners, and Cloth-workers. I. The Mercers company was incorporated by letters patent, granted by king Richard II. in 1393 : it pays in charitable ufes about three thoufand pounds a year, and is governed by a prime, three other wardens, and forty affiftants, with two hundred and thirty-two liverymen, each of which pays a fine only of two pounds thirteen fhillings and four-pence upon his admiffion into the livery. Their hall is in Cheapfide. II. The Grocers company was ancienty called Pep- perers ; but affumingthe name of Grocers, it was incor- porated under that denomination, by the letters patent of Edward III. which were confirmed by Henry VI. in 1429. Thefe grants were confirmed by a new charter of Charles I. in 1 640, with an additional power of fearching and infpecting the goods and weights of all grocers within the city and fuburbs of London, and three miles round. This corporation confifts of a prime and three other wardens, fifty-two affiftants, and one hun- dred and twenty-feven liverymen, whofe fine, upon ad- miffion, is twenty pounds each. Their hall is in Gro- cers-alley, in the Poultry; and they have a great eftate, out of which they pay to the poor about feven hundred pounds a year. III. The company of Drapers was incorporated by [ Henry VI. in 1439, tne t ' t ^ e °^ ' ^ ne rafter, war- U u ' dens, 1 66 M I D D * dens, brethren and Sifters of the guild or fraternity of 1 the bkfied Mary theViigin, of the myftery of Drapers ' of the city of London.' This company is governed by a mafter, four wardens, and thirty affiftants'; and the number of members upon the livery are one hundred and fortv, each of which, when admitted, pays a fine of twenty-five pounds. Their hall is in Throgmcrton- ftreet, and they pay to charitable uSes about four thou- sand pounds a year. IV. The FiSh-mongers, as well as the other vic- tuallers of this city, w^re anciently under the immediate direction of the lord mayor and court of aldermen, and confifted of two communities, the fait fifth and ftock- fifhmongers. The falt-fifhmongers were incorporated by Henry VI. in 1433, and the ftock-fiShmongers by Henry VIII. in 1509 ; but this divifion proving hurtful to the profeflion in general, they united, and were in- corporated by letters patent of the twenty-eighth of Henry VIII. in 1536, by the name and title of the Wardens and Commonalty of the myftery of fishmongers of the city of London. This corporation confifts of u prime and five other wardens, twenty-eight affiftants, and one hundred and forty liverymen, who, when ad- mitted, pay each a fine of thirteen pounds fix Shillings and eight-pence. Their hall is in fhames-ftreet, and they pay to charitable ufes about eight hundred pounds per annum. V. The company of Goldfmiths appears to be of great antiquity ; for in 11 80, the twenty-fixth of Henry II. it was, among other guilds, amerced for fetting up without the king's fpecial licence. King Edward III. in coniideration of the fum of ten merks, incorporated this company in 1327, with a privilege of purchafing hi mortmain an eftate of twenty pounds per annum. This grant was confirmed by Richard II. in 1394 ; and Ed- ward IV. in j 462, inverted the corporation with a pri- vilege of inSpecting, trying, and regulating all gold and filver wares, not only in this city, but in all other parts of the kingdom, with a power to punifh all offenders concerned in working adulterated gold or filver, and a privilege of making bye-laws for their better govern- ment. This company is governed by a prime, three other wardens, and ninety-eight affiftants, with one hundred and ninety-eight liverymen, each of which pays twenty pounds for admiffion. Their hall is in Fofter Lane ; and they have a very great eftate, out of | which is annually paid to charitable ufes above one j thoufand pounds. VI. The company of Skinners was incorporated by letters patent of the firft of Edward III. in 1 327, by the I name of ' The mafter and warden of the guild or fra- * ternity of the body of Chrift, of the Skinners of Lon- * d; n.' This company confifts of a mafter, four war- dens, fixty affiftants, and one hundred and thirty-feven liverymen, who pay each, upon being admitted, a fine of fifteen pounds. Their hall is on Dowgate-Hill ; and they have a very large eftate, out of which they pay annuallv to charitable ufes about feven hundred pounds. VII. The fociety of Merchant Taylors was anciently denominated Taylors and Linen-armourers, and incor- porated by letters patent of the fifth year of Edward IV. in 1466 ; but many of the members of the company beina; great merchants, and Henry VII. a member of it, that^ prince, in 1503, the eighteenth year of his reign, incorporated the company a Second time, by the name of ' The mafter and wardens of the merchant-taylors of « the fraternity of St. John the Baotift, in the city of t London.' This company is governed by a mafter, four wardens, thirty-eight affiftants, and three hundred and ninety-Sour liverymen, each of which pays twenty pounds upon admiffion. Their hall is in Threadneedlc- ftrect ; and they pay to charitable uSes about two thou- fand poun-'s a year. VIII. The company of Haberdafhers was incorpo- rated by letters patent of the twenty-fixth of Henry VI. in 1 -5.07, by the ftile of the fraternity of St. Catharine the Virgin, of the haberdafhers of the city of London. This corporation is governed by a mafter, four war- dens, ninety-three affiftants, and three hundred and forty-two liverymen, who, upon their ' admiffion, pay L E S £ X. each a fine of twenty -five pounda. Their ha!! is in Maiden Lane ; and they have a large eftate, out of which they pay to charitable ufes about three thoufand five hundred pounds a year. IX. The company of Salters appears to be of consi- derable antiquity, by a grant of a livery from Richard i-u in 1394 ; but the. fiat r::i:y was firft incorporated by Elizabeth, in 1558, the fiift year of her reign. The company is governed by a mafter, two wardens, twenty- Seven alfiftants, and one hundred and ninety liverymen* whole fine, upon admiffion, is twenty pounds each. Their hall is in Swithins Lane ; and they have a very confiderable eftate, out oS which they pay to charitable uSes about five hundred pounJs per annum. X. The Iron-mongers company was incorporated in, 1464, the third of Edward IV. and is governed by a mafter, two wardens, and eighty-four liverymen, who are all affiftants, and pay each, upon, admiffion, a fine of fifteen pounds. Their hall is in Fenchurch ftreet ; and they have a large eftate, out of which is paid to charitable ufes about one thoufand eight hundred pounds a year. Mr. Betton, a Turkey merchant, in 1724, left twenty-fix thoufand pounds to this company in trult, to employ one moiety of the profits for ever in the ran- fom of Britifh captives Srom Barbary, and the other moiety in relieving the poor oS the company, and Sup- porting the charity-fchools in the city an ) liberties. XI. The company of Vintners was anciently deno- minated Merchant Wine-tunners of Galcoyne, and confifted of two kinds of dealers, the Veneatrii, who were the merchants or importers ; and the Tabcrnarii, who were the retai'- rs, and kept either taverns or cel- lars. This company was incorporated by letters patent the fifteenth of Henry VI. in 1437, and is governed by a mafter, three wardens, twenty-eight aftiitants, and. one hundred and ninety- four liverymen ; each of which, upon their admiffion, pays a fine of thirty-one pounds, thirteen Shillings and four-pence. Their hall is in Thames-ftreet ; and they have a very confiderable eftate, out of which they pay yearly to charitable ufes about fix hundred pounds. XII. The company of Cloth-workers was firft incor- porated by Edward IV. in 1482, by the name of ' The ' fraternity of the Aflurnption of the blcfied Virgin ' Mary, of the Sheermen oS London;' but it was incor- porated a Second time by queen Elizabeth, by the name of the mafter, wardens, and commonalty of the freemen of the art and myftery of cloth-workers of the city of London : Elizabeth's charter was confirmeJ bv Charles I. in 1634. This corporation is governed by a mafter, four wardens, thirty-three affiftants, and one hundred and fifty-four liverymen; each of whom, upon their admiffion, pays a fine of twenty pounds. Their ball is in Mincing Lane; and they have a very large eftate, out of which is annually paid to charitable ufes about one thoufand four hundred pounds. The principal incorporated focieties of the merchants of this city are, the Hamburgh company, 'he Hudfon's j Bay company, the Ruffia company, the Turkey com- ! pany, the Eaft-India company, the Royal African com- pany, the South Sea company, and fome Infurance companies. I. The Hamburgh company was originallv ftiled the merchants of thcftaple, and afterwards merchant adven- turers. They were firft incorporated by king Edward 1. and by leave of the duke of Brabant, made Antwerp their Staple or mart for the Low Countries ; but Ed- ward III. removed their ftaple, firft to Calais, in his French territories, and then to feveral great towns in England. Q^ieen Elizabeth enlarged the trade of this company, and impoweied its members to treat with the princes and ftates of Germanv, for a proper place for their ftaple, which was at length fixed at Hamburgh, where they obtained the name of the Hamburgh com- pany. They have a governor, a deputy-governor, and a fellowfhip, or court of affiftants. II. The Hudfon's Bay company, incorporated by Charles II. in 1670, carry on a confiderable trade to ail places within Hudfon's Straits and Bay, where they have Several fuclories, to which the natives bring their v furs, M I D D furs, (kins, and other commodities, in exchange for the commodities of England. This corporation is governed by a governor, a deputy-governor, and feven affiftants, 2nd has a handfome hall in Fenchurch-ftreet, built of brick. ill. The Ruffia company was firft incorporated by queen Mary in 1555, and not only impowered to carry on an exclusive trade to all parts of the Ruffian empire, but to all fuch countries as they fhould difcover in thbfe northern parts : their priv ileges were confirmed by par- liament, and enlarged by king James I. in 1 6 14. The affairs of the company are managed by a governor, four confuls, and four and twenty affiftants. IV. The Turkey or Levant compaaiy was firft incor- porated by queen Elizabeth, in 1579 > anc ^ lts privileges were augmented and confirmed by king James I. who impowered the members to trade to all parts of the Le- vant. The affairs of this company are managed by a" governor, a deputy-governor, and eighteen affiftants. V. The Eaft-India company was firft incorporated by queen Elizabeth, in 1601 ; but Oliver Cromwell, in the beginning of his ufurpation, laid open the trade, upon a fuppolition, that it would be of advantage to the nation; but in 1657, the feparate trade having proved fatal to the undertakers, they were, for the good of the whole, united to the company by the legiflature. In the year 1698, a new Eaft-lndia company was eftablifhed by act of parliament, by virtue of which the old com- pany was to have been dniolved after the expiration of a certain term ; but by the good offices of friends to both, and for their mutual interefts, the two companies were joined in 1702, and have everfince been ftiled the united company of merchants trading to the Eaft-Indies. They have a governor, a deputy- governor, and twenty- four directors, chofen annually. They have a houfe in Leadenhall-ftreet, which was rebuilt in 1726, and is a fpacious, handfome, and very convenient ftructure. VI. The Royal African company was firft incorpo- rated in 1588, by queen Elizabeth, for trading to the African coaft. It was incorporated a fecond time by king Charles JL with an exclufive power to trade all along the coaft of Africa, from the port of Sallee, in South Barbary, to the Cape of Good Hope, during one thoufand years. L T pon this, the company erected and fettled feveral forts and factories ; but the trade be- ing laid open by parliament in 1697, the company was difabled from fupporting them. For this reafon it was enacted, that all private traders to Africa fhould pay the company ten pounds per cent, for that purpofe ; but the fum produced was fo deficient, that in 1730 the parlia- ment found it neceffary to grant one hundred thoufand pounds for keeping up the fortrefTes, which fum has ever Since been occasionally continued by parliamentary grants. The affairs of this company are managed by a governor, a fub-governor, a deputy, and thirty-fix directors. VII. The South Sea company was incorporated by act of parliament in the year 17 10, the ninth of queen Anne, in confideration of its paying oft' a debt of nine millions, one hundred and feventy-feven thoufand, nine hundred and fixty-feven pounds, fifteen {hillings and four-pence, due from the government, and not provided for by parliament. It was intended for carrying on a trade to the South- fea, and for the encouragement of the fiftiery ; and by another act the following year, after the difcharge of the debt due to the company from the government, it was made perpetual. In the year 17 14, the capital of the company, upon lending the government an additional fum of eight hundred and twenty-two thoufand and thirty-two pounds, four Shillings and eight-pence, was enlarged by act of parliament to ten millions, for which the members received intereft at fix per cent. In the year 172Q, an act of parliament pafTed to enable the company to increafe their capital, by re- deeming feveral of the public debts, and to raife money for the difcharge of Sundry national incumbrances. By the feveral arts ufed on this occafion, the capital ftock of the company was iiicreafcd, by fubferiptions, to thirty- three million, five hundred and forty-three thoufand, two hundred and Sixty-three pounds, eight {hillings and three-pence. The company has a governor, fub-go- L E S E X. 167 vernor, and thirty directors ; and the houfe, which is the beft of the kind in London, is a fpacious building, of ftone and brick, and (lands between Threadneedle- ftreet and Broad-ftreet. There are two incorporated companies which infure fhips at fea, both eftablifhed in the reign of king George L one is called the Royal Exchange Inlurance company, whofe office is kept in a part of that building ; and the other is the London Jnfurance company^ whole office is kept in Cornhill, near the Royal Exchange. There are alfo feveral offices eftablifhed in this city for infuring houfes and goods from lire : thefe offices keep a number of fervants in conftant pay, to affift ia quenching fires; thefe fervants aie called fire-men, and are diftinguifhed by l'ilver badges, with the arms of the offices to which they belong ; and that water may never be wanting, the large wooden fubterranccus pipes, that fupplv the city with water from the Thames and the New River, are perforated at proper diftances, and flopped with a plug, which is called a fire-plug; and which, being drawn out, immediately lets the water into the ftreet by a copious ftream, which iffues with fuch force, that it rifes near a foot, in a jet not lefs than four inches diameter. Of thefe plugs the pariih-officeis keep the keys ; and that every one may know where they are, the two letters F. P. are painted in large black characters on a white ground, in feme confpicuous part of the houfe that ftands next them. There are alfo feveral offices for the infurance of lives, where, in confideration of a fmail annual fum paid dur- ing the life of a certain perfon, ■ a considerable fum is paid at fuch perfon's death. By a lift of the fhips that belonged to this city in the year 1 732, taken from the general regifter at the cuS- tom-houfe, it appears, that the total number of veiTels was fourteen hundred and feventeen, and of the men employed to navigate them, twenty-one thoufand feven hundred and ninety-feven : it alfo appears, that from Chriftmas 1727 to Chriftmas 1728, the number of Bri- tifh fhips that arrived in London from ports beyond the . r < a, amounted to one thoufand eight hundred and thirty- nine ; of foreign fhips, two hundred and thirteen; of coafters, fix thoufand eight hundred and thirty-feven ; and in the whole, eight thoufand eight hundred and eighty-nine ; and yet, prodigious as this number is, it has greatly increafed Weftminfter, the fecond divifion of this vaft metro- polis, derives its name from a minfter or abbey, called Weftminfter, on account of its Situation in refpect of St. Paul's cathedral in the city of London, which was formerly called Eaftminfler. That diftrict, which anciently included the city of Weftminfter, ftands at the diftance of one mile weft- ward of the city of London, and contains only two pa- rifhes, thofe of St. Margaret and St. John, befides two chapels of eafe. It forms a triangle, of which one fide extends along the Thimes, from Whitehall to Mill- bank, another from Millbank to the weft end of a park called St. James's Park, and the third from the weft end of the park to Whitehall, the whole being about two miles in circumference. The city of Weftminfter, by an act of parliament pafTed in the twenty-fc-venth year of queen Elizabeth, is governed by a high fteward, an officer of great ftate and dignity, who is commonly one of the firft peers of the realm, and is chofen for life by the dean and chapter cf a collegiate church in this city, dedicated to St. Peter, and called the abbey church ; an under fteward, who like wife holds his office for life, is nominated by the high fteward, and confirmed by the dean ;. and an high bailiff, whofe office is alfo for life, named by the dean and chapter, and confirmed by the high fteward. Be- fides thefe officers, here are Sixteen burgeffes and as many affiftants, and a high conftable, chofen by the burgeffes at the court-leet, which is held by the high fteward or his deputy. Out of thefixteen burgeffes two chief burgeffes are chofen, one for each of two precincts, into which Weftminfter is divided. The high Steward, or his deputy, prefides as chairman at the quarter feffions of this city and its liberties. The high bailiff" is a pcr- fon 1 68 MIDDLESEX. fop always fuppwfed to be converfant in the law; he has the p wer of a fherirF, fummons juries, prefides over all the bailiffs of this city and liberties, Superintends elec- t on; lor members of parliament, and fits next the under ffeward in court, where he receives all the fines and forfeitures to his own ufe : the two chief burgeffes fit next him. Other inferior officers are, a town-cleric, an afferour, and a crier. The dean and chapter are inverted with an ecclefiafti- cal and civil jurifdiclion within the liberties of Wcft- iniriftcr, Sr. Martin's le Grand, near Cheapfide, in the city of London, and fome towns in Effex, which are exempted both from the jurifdicliqn of the biftiop ot London, and archbifhop of Canterbury. In queen Elizabeth's time, Weftminftcr had but four parifh-churches, St. Margaret's, St. Martin's in the Fields, the Savoy church, and St. Clement's Danes ; but now, befides the two parifli-churches of St. Mar- garet and St. John, the original diftricb of the city, it has leven churches, St. Clement's Danes, St. Paul's, Covent-Garden, St. Mary's le Strand, St. Martin's in the Fields, St. Anne's, St. James's, and St. George's, Hanover- fquare. ". The moft remarkable (Iru&ure in Weft&iinfter is the abbev-church of St. Peter, built by Sebert, king of the Laft Saxons, in the year 616, on the foundations cf the temple of Apollo. It was confecrated by Melitus, bi- fhop of London, and dedicated to St. Peter. This church and its monaftery were afterwards re- paired and enlarged by Offa, king of Mercia; but being deftroyed by the Pagan Danes, they were rebuilt bv king Edgar, who endowed them with lands and manors, and in the year 969, granted them many ample privileges. The church and monaftery having again fuffered by the ravages of the Danes, were again rebuilt by Edward the Confefl'or, who puiied down the old church, and erect d a moil magnificent one, for that age, in its room, in the form of a crofs, which afterwards became a pat- tern for that kind of building '1 he work being finifhed in the year 1065, he cauled it to be confecrated with the greateft pomp and folemnity, and by feveral charters not only confirmed all its ancient rights and privileges, hut endowed it with many rich manors, and additional immunities: ordained, that all its lanJs and poffclncns fhould be fubjecl to none but its own jtirifdiition, and the convent be free from the authority of the biftiop of London ; and the church, by a bull of pope Nicholas I. was constituted the place for the inauguration cf the kings of England. In fherr, he gave it a charter of fanctuary, in which he declares, that any perfon what- foever, let his crimes be ever fo great, who takes fanc- tuary in that holy place, fhall be afiurtd of life, liberty, and limbs, and that none of his minifter.?, nor thofe of his fucceffors, fhould feize any of his goods, lands or poffeffions, under pain of everlafting damnation, and that whoever prefumed to act contrary to this grant, fhuuld lofe his name, worfnip, dignity, and power, and with the traitor Judas, be in the everlai'iing fire of hell. This was the pious language of St Edward the Confeffor, and from this charter, Weftminfter-atbey became an afylum for traitors, murderers, robbers, and the moft abandoned mifcreants, who lived there in open defiance of the laws. This, and king Edward's other charters, in which he recites the ridiculous ftory of its confecration by St. Peter, its deftruclion by the Danes, the grants and privileges of his predeceflors, and thole beftowed by himfelf, drew people thither from all parts, fo that in a fhort time there was not fufficient room in the abbey church for the accommodation of the numerous inhabitants, without incommoding the monks; he therefore cauied a church to be erected on the north fide of the monaftery, for the ufe of the inhabitants, and dedicated it to St. Margaret. William the Conqueror, to {hew his regard to the memory of his late friend king Edward, no fooner ar- rived in London, than he repaired to this church, znl offered a fumptuous pall, as a covering for his tomb: he alfo gave fifty marks of lilver, together with a very rich altar-cloth, and two caflcets of gold ; and the C'hriftmas following, was folemnly crowned there, his being the firft coronation performed in that plac<;. The next prince who improved this great work, \va§ Henry III. who in the year 1200 began to erect a new chapel to the bleifed Virgin ; but about twenty years after, finding the walls and fteeple of the old-ftructure much decayed, he pulled them all down, with a defign to enlarge, and rebuild them in a more regular manner ; but he did not live to accomplish this great work, which was not completed till 1285, about fourteen years al\er his deceafc. And this is the date of the building as it now {rands. About the year 150a, king Henry VI f. be^an that magnificent ftrucrure, which is now generally called his name ; for this purpofe, he pulled down the chapel of Henry iff, alreadv mentioned, and an adjoining home called the White Role Tavern. This cha';.:l, like the former, he dedicated to the bleffed Virgin, and defigning it for a burial-place for himfelf and his pofteritv, he care- fully ordered in his will, that none but thole of royal blood fhould be permitted to lie there. At length, on the general fappre.Tion of religious houfes, the abbey was furrendered to Henry Vill. by William Benfon, the abbot, and fevemecn of the monks, in the year 1539, when its revenues amounted to three tfaoufand nine hundred and Seventy (even pounds, -fix: {hillings and four-pence three farthings per annum., a fum at lcaft equal to twenty thouland pounds a /car at prefent. Bcndes its furniture, which was of inefljryable value, it had, in different parts of the kingdom, no kfs than two hundred \a\ fixteen manors, Seventeen hamlets, and ninetv-feven towns and villages. And though the abbey was only the Second in rank, yet in ail other re- fpects it was the chief in the kingdom ; and irs abbots having epilcopal jurisdiction, had a feat in the floufe of Lords. The abbey thus diffolved, that prince erected firft into a college of fecular canons, under the government of a dean, an honour which he chofe to confer on the lafc abbot. This eftablifhment, however, was of no long duration ; f jr two years after, he converted it into a bifhoprick, which was diffolved, nine years after, by Edward Vi. who reftored the government by a dean, which continued till Mary's acceffion to the crown ; when flie, in 1557, reftoied it to its ancient conventual ftate ; but queen Elizabeth again ejected the monks, and in 1560, erected Weftminfter Abbey into a college, under the government of a dean, and twelve fecular ca- nons or prtbendari. s, a fchoolmafter, ulher, and forty Scholars, denominated the Queen's, to be educateJ in the liberal fciences preparatory to the univerSity, and to have all the neceffaries of life, except cloathing, of which they were to have only a gown every year. To this foundation alfo belong chorifters, finging-men, an organ ift, twelve alms-men, Sic. The abbey-church, which was ftripped of many of its decorations by Henry VLI. and was much damaged, both within and without, during the unhappy civil com- motions that defaced the anc.ent beauty of moft of the religious houfes in this kingdom, has continued from the death of Henry VII. almoft to the prefent time, without any other confiderable repairs, and was gradually tailing to ruin, when the parliament interpofed, and ordered a thorough reparation at the national expL-nce. This venerable fabric has been accordingly new coated on the outfide, except that part called Henry V:L's Chapel, which is indeed a feparate building : and the weft end has been adorned with two new ftately towers that have been lately rebuilt, in fuch a manner as to be thought equal, in point of workmanfhip, to any part of the ancient building : but though fuch pains have been taken in the coating, to preierve the ancient Gothic grandeur, that this ihurch, in its diftant profpect, has all the venerable majefty of its former ftate, yet the beau- tiful carving with which it was once adorned, is irre- trievably loft ; the buttreffes, once capped v/ith turrets, are now made in plain pyramidical forms, and topped with free-ftone ; and the ftatues of our ancient kings, that formerly flood in niches, near the. tops of thofe buttreilbs, are, for the moft part, removed, and their broken to i D D L broken fragments lodged in the roof of Henry VII. 's fchapel. Three of thefe ftatues are flill {landing next the towers on the north iide, and indeed that is the only fide where you can take a view of the abbey, the other fide being fo incumbered with buildings, that even its filiation cannot be diftinguiihed. What, next to the new towers, principally engages the -attention on the outfide, is the Gothic portico which leads into the north crofs, which by fome has been ftiled the Beautiful, or Solomon's Gate. This was probably built by Richard II. as his arms, carved in ftone, Were formerly over the gate. It has been lately beautified, and over it is a new window, admirably well executed. Befides thefe, there is little in the outward appearance capable of engaging the attention, and its principal beauties are to be found within. The author of the work entitled Englifh Architecture, feems to prefer the Gothic to the Grecian architecture, as moft fuited to the purpofes of devotion, and gives this edifice as an inftance. " There is in it (fays he) ** a majefty and grandeur, a fedate, and, if we may fo " fpeak, religious dignity, which immediately ftrikes *' the imagination^ and never failed to imprefs on the ** moft infenfible obferver that holy awe which fhould '« attend* and which always difpoies the mind to de- ** votion." But this holy awe, thus mechanically in- cited, would be as friendly to Paganifm as to Chrifti- anity ; and indeed, this awe is fo far from being holy, that it is a thing intirely diftinct from rational piety and devotion, and may be felt without any inclination to enter the choir. Indeed the multiplicity of puerile ornaments profufely lavifhed, the ftrong and beautiful perfpective, and that romantic air of grandeur fo vifible in this ftructure, and above all, the height of the middle ifle at our firft entrance, fill the eye, ftrike us in a very forcible man- ner, and at once raife our admiration and aftonifhment. To which let it be added, that the ranges of venerable monuments on each hand, fome of them moft magnifi- cent, have a natural tendency to ftrike the mind with an uncommon degree of folemnity, and to raife the moft ferious reflections. The extent of the building is very confiderable ; for it is three hundred and fixty feet within the walls, at the nave it is feventy-two feet broad, and at the crofs one hundred and ninety-five. The Gothic arches and fide-ifles are fupported by forty-eight pillars of grey marble, each ccmpofed of clutters of very {lender ones, and covered with ornaments* The moment you enter the weft door, the whole body of the church opens itfelf at once to your view, the pillars dividing the nave from the fide-ifles, being fo formed as not to obftruct the fide openings ; nor is your fight terminated to the eaft, but by the fine painted window over Edward the Confeflbr's chapel, which anciently, when the altar was low, and adorned with the beautiful fhrine of that pretended faint, mult have afforded one of the fineft profpects that can be imagined. The pillars are terminated to the eaft by a fweep, in- clofing the chapel of Edward the Confeflbr in a kind of femicircle. And it is worthy of obfervation, that as far as the gates of the choir, the pillars are filletted with brafs, but all beyond with ftone. Anfwering to the middle range of pillars, there are others in the wall, which, as they rife, fpring into femi-arches, and are every where met in acute angles by their oppofites ; and meeting in the roof, are adorned with a variety of carvings. On the arches of the pillars are galleries of double columns, fifteen feet wide, covering the fide- ifles, and enlightened by a middle range of windows, over which there is an upper range of larger windows, and by thefe, together with the four capital windows, facing the north, eaft, fouth and weft, the whole fabric is fo admirably enlightened, that in the day you are never dazzled with its brightnefs, nor incommoded by its being too dark. But before we leave thefe capital windows, which are all finely painted, it is neceffary to obferve, that in the great weft window is' a curious painting of Edward III. to the left of which, in a fmaller window, is a painting of one of our kings, fuppofed to E S E X, 169 be Richard II.' but the colours being of a water blue, the features of the face cannot be diiiinguifhed. On the other fide the great window, is a lively reprefentation of Edward the Comeffor in his robes, and under his feet are painted his arms. At the bottom of the walls, be- tween the pillars, are fhallow niches, arched about eight or ten feet high, on which the arms of the original benefactors are depicted, and over them are their titles, &c. but thefe are almoft all concealed by the monu- ments of the dead placed before them, many of which are extremely noble, and which we fhall particularly examine, after having gone through the feveral parts of the edifice. After viewing the open part of the church, the next thing to be feen is the choir, which can only be done during the times of divine fervice. The grand entrance into it is by a pair of fine iron gates, on each fide of which is a very magnificent tomb. The floor is paved with the fineft black and white marble. The ancient {falls are covered with Gothic acute arches, fupported by fmall iron pillars, and are painted purple ; but what is moft worthy of obfervation, is an ancient portrait, near the pulpit, of Richard II. fitting in a gilt chair, dreffed in a green veft, flowered with gold, with gold ftioes powdered with pearls. This piece is fix feet eleven inches in length, and three feet l'even inches in breadth ; but the lower part is much defaced. The next thing worthy of obfervation is the fine altar, enclofed with a curious baluftrade, within which is a pavement of mofaic work, laid at the expence of Abbot Ware, in the year 1272, and is faid to be one of the moft beautiful of its kind in the world : the ftones of which it is compofed are porphyry, jafper, lydian and ferpentine. The altar is a beautiful piece of marble, removed from Whitehall, and prefented to this church by order of her majefty queen Anne. On each fide of the altar are doors, opening into St. Edward's chapel. Having taken a view of the ftructure of Weftminfter abbey, we proceed to furvey the monuments that deco- rate this ancient pile, and preach in the moft emphatic, tho' filent language, the great doctrine of mortality, and demonfti ate to the eye of the fpectator, that neither riches, honours, learning, or genius can avert the ftroke of death, or preferve the human frame from re- turning to the duft, whence it was taken. But as it would carry us too far to mention all the monuments in this famous ftructure, we fhall only defcribe thofe which more particularly merit attention. In the open part of the Abbey near the pulpit is a very handfome monument erected to the memory of that learned grammarian Dr. Bufby, mafter of Weft- v minfter fchool ; who is reprefented in his gown, look- ing earneftly at the infeription, holding in his right- hand a pen, and in his left a book open. Upon the pedeftal underneath are a variety of books, and at the top his family-arms. The infeiption is a very elegant one, and intimates, that whatever fame the fchool of Weftminfter boafts and whatever advantages mankind may reap from thence in future times, they are all prin- cipally owing to the wife inftitutions of this gentleman, who was born at Lutton in Lincolnfhire, on the 22d of September 1606, and after being preferred to the maf- terfhip of Weftminfter fchool, he was elected prebendary of Weftminfter, and treafurer of Wells. He died on the 5th of April 1695. The next monument is that erected to the memory of Robert South, D. D. who is reprefented in a recumbent pofture, in his canonical habit, with his arm refting on a cufhion, and his right-hand on a death's head. In his left hand he holds a book, with his finger between the leaves, as if juft clofed from reading, and over his head is a group of cherubs, iffuing from a mantling. This monument is however very badly executed, and the ftatue itfelf clumfy and unmeaning. It has a long Latin infeription, mewing that this celebrated divine was fcholar of Dr. Bufby, and ftudent at Chrift Church, Oxford ; that, by the patronage of the lord Clarendon, he was made prebendary both of Weftminfter and Chrift- Church, and afterwds rector of Iflip, where he built the parfonage-houfe, and founded a fchool for the educa- X x. - {ion MIDDLESEX. tion of poor children. He died on eight of July 1 7 1 3, in the eighty-third year of his age. At the corner of the gate leading to the chapel of St. Benedict, is a plain neat monument to the memory of Mr. Dryden, adorned with no other ornament than an elegant bull of that great poet. It was erected by the late duke of Bukingham, who thought no infeription iieccfl'ary to tranfmit the fame of that admired vvricer to pofterity ; we therefore only fee thefe few words, J. Dryden, born 1632, died May 1, 1700, and underneath, John Sheffield, duke of Budcinghamfhire, erected this monument 1720. At a fmall diftance is a plain neat monument to the memory of Abraham Cowley, on whicn is placed a flaming urn, begirt with a chaplet of laurel, expn ffive emblems of the glory he acquired by the fpirit of his writings. The Latin infeription and epitaph on the pe- deftal have been thus tranflated. " Near this place lies Abraham Cowley, the Pindar, Horace, and Virgil of England; and the delight, 'orna- ment, and admiration of this age." XVhile, facred bard, far worlds thy works proclaim, . And you furvive in an immortal fame, Here may you blefs'd in pleafing quiet lie, To guard thy urn may hoary Faith (land by; And all thy favourite tuneful nine repair To watch thy duft with a perpetual care. Sacred for ever may this place be made, And may no defperate hand presume t' invade With touch unhallow'd, this religious room, Or dare affront thy venerable tomb : Unmoved and undifturb'd till time {hall end, May Cowley's duft this marble fhrine defend. So wiflies, and defires that wifti may be facred to pof- tery, George, duke of Buckingham, who erected this monument for that incomparable man. He died in the forty-ninth year of his age, and was carried from Buck- ingham-houfe, with honourable pomp, his exequies be- ing attended by perfons of illuftrious characters of all degrees, and interred Auguft 13, 1667. The monument of that ancient poet Geoffery Chau- cer, was once a handfome one in the Gothic ftile ; but is now defaced by time. Chaucer, who is ftiletj the fa- ther of the Englifh poets, was the fon of Sir John Chau- cer, a citizen of London, employed by Edward HI. in negociations abroad relating to trade. He was ftudent at Cambridge; but afterwards ftudied at Merton Col- lege, Oxford; and to perfect himfelf in the knowledge of the laws, entered himfelf of the Middle Temple : thus accomplifhed, he foon became a favourite at court, and was employed as fhield-bearer to the King ; was a gen- tleman of the bedchamber, and by Edward III. was fent ambaflador abroad. However, in the fucceeding reign, he fell into difgrace, and was committed to the Tower for high treafon, where he wrote his Teltament of Love : but upon the death of Richard II. he became a greater favourite at court than ever, from his having married the great John of Gaunt's wife's fifter. He was born in 1328, and died in 1400. The plain monument of Mr. John Phillips, has his buft in relief, reprefented as in an arbour, interwoven with vines, laurel branches, and apple-trees ; and over it is this motto, Honos erit huic quoque potno, alluding to the high qualities afcribed to the apple, in his excellent poem called Cyder. He was author of but few pieces ; but thofe were mafterly performances. His Blenheim, Splendid Shilling, and Lyric Ode to lord Bolingbroke on Tobacco, have.Jjeen much admired. He was the fon of Dr. Stephen Phillips, archdeacon of Salop, was born at Brampton in Oxfordfhire on the 30th of December 1676, and died of a conlumption at Hereford, on the 15th of February 1708, in the prime of his life. The infeription on his monument contains an account of his virtues and abilities, and is the ftrongeft teftimony of his merit, fince that alone could infpire his great pa- tron Sir Simon Harcourt, Knt. with fuch a generous friendfhip for him, as to countenance and encourage him in the ampleft manner when living, and to extend his regard for him after his death, by erecting this mo- nument to his memory. Next this is Mr. Michael Drayton's monument. This gentleman was eftcerned an excellent poet, and learned antiquarian. The infeription and epitaph were formerly in gold letters ; but arc now almuft obliterated, and arc as follow. u Michael Drayton, Efq; a memorable poet of his age, exchanged his laurel for a crown of glory, -anno 1631." Do, pious marble ! let my readers know What they, and what their children owe To Drayton's name, whofe facred duft We recommend unto thy truft; Protect his mem'ry and preferve his ftory ; Remain a lafting monument of his glory ; And when thy ruins fhall declaim, To be the treafurer of his name : His name, that cannot fade, {hall be An everlafting monument to thee. Ben Jchnfon's monument is of white marble, and his buft is executed with great happinefs and fpirit ; it is in- clofed with a tablatur ornamented with a few proper and elegant decorations, corififting of emblematical fi- gures : and has no other infeription but the words, O rare Ben Johnfon ! This gentleman was the fon of a cler- gyman, and educated at Weftrninfter fchool, while Mr. Camden was mafter ; but after his father's d^th, his mo- ther marrying a bricklayer, he was forced from fchool, and being obliged to work for his father, it is faid, that, at the building of Lincoln's Inn he was fometimes feen at work with his trowel in one hand, and Horace in the other. However, Mr. Camden having an efteem for him on account of his abilities, recommended him to Sir Walter Raleigh. He attended that brave man's fon in his travels, and upon his return, entered himfelf at Cambridge ; afterwards he wrote a confiderablc number of plays ; became poet-laureat to king James I. and. died on the fixteenth of Auguft 1637, aged fixty-three. His tomb was creeled by the earl of EiTex, who has in- fe'ribed his own name on the ftone. apenfetf"s tomb is of grey marble, and has fufFercd greatly by time. It was erected in an age when tafte was in its infancy in England, and yet has fomething in it venerably plain, and not abfuraly ornamental. The infeription upon it is as follows ; " Here lies (expecting the fecond coming of our Sa- viour Chrift Jefus) the body of Edmund Spenfer, the prince of poets in his time, whofe divine fpirit needs no other witnefs than the works he left behind him. He was born in London in 1510, and died in 1596." Above Spenfcr J s monument i,s that of Samuel Butler, the author of Hudibras. By the Latin infeription, ic appears, that it was erected by John Barber, Efq; citi- zen of London, and afterwards lord mayor in 1731, that he who was deftitute of all things when alive, might not want a monument when dead. Mr. Butler was born at Shenfham in Worcefterfhire in j6i2, and died at London in 1680. A plain and neat monument of white marble in me- mory of that divine poet, John Milton, who died in 1674. Under a very elegant buft made by Ryfbrack is this infeription : " In the year of our Lord Chrift 1737, this buft of the author of ParadifeLoft was placed here by William Benfon, Efq; one of the two auditor's of the impreft to his majefty, &c." The monument of Matthew Prior is adorned with great expence. On one fide of the pedeftal ftands the figure of Thalia, one of the Mufes, with a flute in her hand; and on the other Hiftory, with her book fhut: between thefe ftatues is Prior's buft upon a raifed altar, and over it is a handfome pediment, on the afcending fides of which are two boys, one with an hour-glafs in his hand, run out; the other holding a torch, reverfed. On the apex of the pediment is an urn, and on the bale of the monument is a long inferipcion in Latin, mention- ing the public pofts and employments with which he had been intrufted ; and above, we are informed, that while he was writing the hiftory of his own times, death inter- pofed, and broke both the thread of his difcourfc and of his life, on the eighteenth of September 1721, in the fiftv-feventh year of his age. Th* MIDDLESEX. The monument erected to the memory of the immor- tal Shakefpear is worthy of that great dramatic writer, and both the defign and execution arc extremely elegant. Upon a handfome pedeiial ftands his ftattffe in white marble, d relied in the habit of the time in which he lived, with one elbow leaning on a pile of book?, and his head reclined on his hand, in a pofiure of meditation. The attitude, the drefs, the fhape, the genteel air, and fine compoiure obfervable in this figure of Shakefpear, cannot be furficiently admired ; and the beautiful lines of his own compofition on the fcroll, are happily chclen : The cloud-cap'd towers, The gorgeous palaces, The l'olemn temples, The great globe itfelf, Yea, all that it inherits, Shall difiblre ; And, like the bafelefs fabric of a vifion, Leave not a wreck behind. Immediately over his head, upon a curious piece of dark-coloured marble, is the fallowing inicription, in capital letters, railed in gold : GULIELMO ShAKESPEAR, Anno post mortem exx v. Amor publicus posuit. The heads on the pcdeftal, reprefenting Henry V. Richard III. and queen Elizabeth, three principal cha- racters in his plays, are likewife proper ornaments to grace his tomb. In fhort, the tafte that is here fliewn does nonour to thole great names under whofe direction, by the public favour, it was fo elegantly conftructed ; thefe were the earl of Burlington, Dr. Mead, Mr. Pope, and Mr. Martin It was defigned by Kent, and exe- cuted by Scheemakers ; the expence being defrayed by the grateful contributions of the public. Mr. Fleetwood, then mafter of Drury lane theatre, and Mr. Rich of Covent-garden, gaVe each a benefit, arifing from one of his own plays, towards it, and the dean and chapter made a prel'ent of the ground. The next monument is a very fine one to the memory of Nicholas Rowe, Efq; and his only daughter. On a pedeftal about twenty inches high, which (lands on an altar, is a fine bull of Mr. Rowe; near it is his lady in the deepen:' affliction, and between both, cn a pyiamid behind, is a medalion, with the head of a young lady in relief. On the front of the pedeftal is this mfefiptibri : To the memory of Nicholas Rowe, Efq; who died in 171 8, aged forty-five, and of Charlotte, his only daugh- ter, wife of Henry Fane, Efq; who inheriting her fa- ther's fpirit, and amiable in her own innocence and beauty, died in the twenty-third year of her age, 1739. Underneath, upon the front of the altar, are thefe lines : Thy reliques, Rowe ! to this fad fhrine we trult, And near thy Shakefpear place thy honour'd buft. Oh ! fkill'd, next him, to draw the tender tear, For never heart felt pafiion more fincere : To nobler fentiments to fire the brave, For never Briton more difdain'd a flave ! Peace to thy gentle fhade, and endlefs refT, Bleft in thy genius, in thy love too bleft ! And bleft, that timely fnom our fcene remov'd, Thy foul enjoys that liberty it lov'd. To thefe fo mourn'd in death, fo lov'd in life, The childlefs mother, and the widow'd wife, With tears inferibes this monumental ftone, That holds their afb.es, and expects her own. Near this laft, is a fine monument erected to the me- mory of Mr. John Gay, by the duke and dutchefs of Queenfberry, his great patrons. His buft is a very good one, and the mafks, inftruments of mufic, and other devices, are blended together in a group, in allufion to the various fpecies of writings in which he excelled, as farce, fatire, fable, and paltoral. The fhort epitaph in the front was written by himfelf, and has given fome offence, as the fentiment, at firft view, feems by no means proper for a monument ; Life is a jeft, and all things fhew it : I thought fo once, but now I know it. Underneath are thefe lines : Of manners gentle, of affections mild ; In wit, a man ; limplicity, a child ; With native humour temp'ring virtuous rage, Forrn'd to delight, at once, and lafh the age; Above temptation in a low eftate, And uncorrupted, ev'n among the great. A fafe companion, and an ealy friend ; Unblam'd through life, lamented in thy end. Thefe are thy honours ; not that here thy buft Is mix'd with heroes, or with kings thy duft ; But that the worthy and the good ih ail fay, Striking their penfive boforrw — Here lies Gay. A. Pope. PIcre lie the afhes of Mr. John Gay, the warmeii: friend, the gentleft companion, the moft benevolent man; who maintained independency in low circumftan- ces of fortune ; integrity, in t ie midft of a corrupt age ; and that equal fcrenity of mind, which confeious good- nefs alone can give, throu ;hout the whole cotlrfe of h is life. Favourite of the Mafes, he was led by them to every eleg»nt art, reined in tafte, and fraught with graces all its own. In various kinds' of poetry,- fuperior to many, intern. r to none: his works continue to infpirc what his example taught ; contempt of folly, however adorned ; deteftation of vice, however digni led ; reve- rence of virtue, however difgraced. Charles and Catharine, duke and dutchefs of Queenf- berry, wh > lov.d his perfon living, and regret him dead, havecaufed this monument to be erected to his memory. Tne next is a moft magnificent, lofty and elegant monument, erected to the late duke of Ar jyie, enclofed with rails, and decorated with figures finely executed. The ftaLje of the dulce is fpirited, even at ihe verge of life On one fide of the bale is Pallas, and on the other Eloquence ; the one looking forrowf ully up at the prin- cipal figure above, and the other pathetically difplaying tiie pubiic lofs at his death. Above is the figure of Hiilory, with one- hand holding a book, an! with the other writing on a pyramid ot oioft be.iuriful variegated marble, 'admirably poluTied, the na ns and titles of the h^ro in large gold letters, JOHN" DUKE OF AR- GYLE AMD Gi<. at which point the pen of Hftory refls. His actions are fuppofed to b . contained in the book fhe holds in her other hand, on the cover of which, in Utters of gold, are infcripecj the date of his Grace's death, and the years of his life. Above is inferibed on this beautiful pyramid in goid letters, the following epitaph, laid to be. written by Paul Whitehead, Efq; Britain, behold, ;f patriot worth be dear, A fhrine that claims thy tributary tear : S i I tut that tongue admiring fenates heard : Nervelcfs that arm oppoiing kg'.ons fear'd : Nor lefs, O Campbell ! thine the pow'r to pleafe } And give to grandeur ail the grace of eafe. Long from thy life let kindred heroes trace Arts which ennoble ftill the nobleft race. Others may owe their future fame to me, 1 borrow immortality from thee. On the bale of the monument is this infeription : In memory of an honeft man, a conftant ■ friend, John, the great duke of Argyle and Greenwich, a ge- neral and orator exceeded by none in the age he lived. Sir Henry Fermer, Bart, by his laft will, left the fum of five hundred pounds towards erecting this monument, and recommended the above infeription. The monument of Ifaac Barrow, D. D. is remarkable for a fine buft of that great divine and mathematician, who, as the infeription fhews, was chaplain to king Charles II. head of Trinity College, Cambridge; pro- feffor of geometry at Grefham-college in London, and of Greek and mathematics at Carnbridge. He died on the fourteenth of May 1 677, aged forty-feven. The monument of George Frederick Handel was the laft which that eminent ftatuary Rubiliac lived to finifh. The ftatue of that great mufician is very elegant, and the face a ftrong likenefs of its original. The left arm is refting on a group of mufical inftruments, and the attitude Iy2 MIDDLESEX. attitude is very exprefiive of great attention to the har- mony of an angel playing on an harp in the clouds over his head. Before it lies the celebrated oratorio of the Mcfliah, with that part open, where is the much admired air, " I know that my Redeemer liveth." Beneath only this infeription : George Frederick Handell, Efq; born February twen- ty-third, 1684. Died April fourteenth, 1759. Next to Mr. Handell's is a monument erected to the memory of that eminent divine and philofopher, Dr. Stephen Hales. Here you fee two beautiful figures in relief, the one Botany, the other Religion. Botany is prefenting a medalion of this great explorer of nature to public view ; Religion is deploring the lofs of the di- vine : at the feet of Botany the winds are difplayed on a globe, which allude to his invention of the ventilators. The Latin infeription is to the following effect : To the memory of Stephen Hales, Doctor in divinity, Augufta, the mother, Of that beft of kings, George the third, Has placed this monument ; Who chofe him when living, To officiate as her chaplain ; And after he died, which was on the fourth of January, 1 761, in the eighty-fourth year of his age, Honoured him with this marble. About the tomb of Hales, whofe fair defign And polifh great Augufta caus'd to (hine, Religion, hoary Faith, and Virtue wait, And (hed perpetual tears in mournful ftate. But o'er the preacher, render'd to his clay, The voice of Wifdom ftill has this to fay : " He was a man to hear afflictions cry,' " And trace his Maker's works with curious eye : «< O Hales ! thy praifes not the lateft age, " Shall e'er diminifti, or fhall blot thy page, " England, fo proud of Newton, fhall agree, " She has a fon of equal rank in thee." A neat monument erected to the memory of the learned Ifaac Cafaubon, by Dr. Moreton, bifhop of 'Durham. That profound fcholar and critic, whofe name is inferibed upon it, v/as born in France, and in his younger years was keeper of the royal library at Parisj but at length being diflatisfied with the Romifh religion, he, upon the murder of his great patron, Henry IV. quitted his native country, and, at the ear- neft entreaty of king James 1. fettled in England, where he died in 1614, aged forty-five. Next to the weft corner of the fouth crofs is an an- cient monument'tb the memory of that great antiquarian, "William Camden, who is reprefented in a half length, in the drefs of his time, holding a book in his right hand, and in his left his gloves. He refts on an altar, on the body of which is a Latin infeription, which men- tions his indefatigable induftry in illustrating the Britifh antiquities, and his candour, fincerity, and pleafant good humour in private life. He died November the ninth, 1623. The monument of the brave Sir Cloudefly Shovel, who here appears a very unmeaning figure, with a large itiff wig, repofing himfelf upon velvet cufhions under a canopy of ftate ; and on the bafe is reprefented in bas relief, the (hip Afibciation in which the admiral laft failed, ftriking againft a rock, with feveral others pe- rifhing at the fame time ; and at the top are two boys blowing trumpets. This monument has been highly cenfured by all per- fons of tafte, though it is erected to his memory at great expence, and even by his fovereign queen Anne. The great Mr. Addifon has juftly expofed it in the Specta- tors, and complains at this brave rough Englith admi- ral's being here reprefented by the figure of a beau ; and alfo cenfures the infeription, which, inftead of cele- brating the many remarkable actions he had performed in the fervice of his country, only informs us of the manner of his death, from which it was impoffible to reap any honour, though it may excite our pity. The infeription is as follows ; Sir Cloudefly Shovel, Knt. re.ir-admhal of Great Britain, and admiral and commander in chief of the fleet-^the juft reward of his long and faithful fervices. He was delervedly beloved of his country, and elteemed, though dreaded by the enemy, who had often experi- enced his conduct and courage. Being fhipvvrecked on the rocks of Scilly, in his voyage from Toulon, the twenty-fecond of October 1707, at night, in the fifty- feventh year of his age. His fate was lamented by all, but eipecial'y by the feafaring part of the nation, ta whom he was a generous patron, and a worthy example. His body was flung on the fhore, and buried With others in the land ; but being loon after taken up, was placed under this monument, which his royal mifiref9 had caufed to be erected to commemorate his fteady loyalty and extraordinary virtues. At fome diftance from Sir Cloudefly's, is a ftately monument erected for Sir Palmes Fairborne. Two py- ramids of black marble (landing on cannon balls, have two Moorifh emperors heads in profile on their tops ; thefe pyramids are adorned with relievos ; on one Sir' Palmes is (hot while viewing the enemy's lines before the town ; and on the other is a hearfe and fix horfes bringing him off" wounded to the caftle. Above, in a lofty dome, are the arms of the deceafed, with this motto underneath, tutus si fortis ; and over his arms a Turks head on a dagger, by way of creft, which he won by his valour in fighting againft that people in the German war. On this monument is the following infeription : " Sacred to the immortal memory of Sir Palmes Fairborne, Knt. governor of Tangier j in execution of which command, he was mortally wounded by a (hot from the Moors, then befieging the town, ill the forty- fixth year of his age, October twenty-fourth, 1680. His epitaph, wrote by Mr. Dryden, runs thus : Ye facred reliques, which your marble keep, Here undifturb'd by wars, in quiet deep : Di (charge the truft, which (when it was below) Fairborne's undaunted foul did undergo, And be the town's palladium from the foe.. Alive and dead thefe walls he will defend : Great actions great examples muft attend. The Candian fiege his early valour knew, Where Turkifh blood did his young hands imbrue; From thence returning, with deferv'd applaufe, Againft the Moors his well-flefh'd fwofd he draws The fame the courage, and the fame the caufe. His youth and age, his life and death combine, As in fome great and regular defign, All of a piece throughout, and all divine. Still nearer heav'n his virtue (hone more bright, Like rifing flames expanding in their height, The martyr's glory crown'd the foldier's fight. More bravely Britifh general never fell, Nor general's death was e'er reveng'd fo well, Which his pleas'd eyes beheld before their clofe, Follow'd by thoufand victims of his foes. To his lamented lofs, for times to come, His pious widow confecrates this tomb. An elegant monument, erected to the memory of the Hon.. Roger Townfhend, Efq. The back of the monu- ment is a flat pyramid of variegated marble ; about the middle of which is a beautiful piece of baflb relievo, finely executed, reprefentin'g the death of this gallant commander. This piece, which is of white marble highly polifhed, is fupported by two Americans in the drefs of their country, the one armed with a towmahawk, and the other with a fufee. Between thofe ftatues, "and. under the baflb relievo, is the following infeription. This monument was erected by a difccnfolate Parent, the Lady Vifcountefs Townfhend, To the memory of her fifth fon, The Honourable Lieutenant Colonel Roger Townfhend 1 , Who was killed by a cannon ball on the 25th of • Julv, 1 759» in the 28th year of his age, As he was reconnoiteiing the French lines at Ticonderago in North America. • 1 1 M I D D L From trie parent, the brother, and the friend, . His focial and amiable manners, His enterprifing bravery, And integrity of his heart, May claim the tribute of affliction. Yet, ft ranger! weep not; For tho' premature his death, His life was glorious; Enrolling him with the names of thofe immortal Statefmen and commanders, Whofe wifdom and intrepidity, In the courfe of this comprehenfive and fuccefsful war, Have extended the commerce, Enlarged the dominion, And upheld the majefty of thefe kingdoms, Beyond the idea of any former age. Above is the monument of Sir John Chardin, who diftinguifhed himfelf by his travels into the eaft, adorn- ed with a globe, which exhibits a view of the different countries he vifited, and around it are reprefented a number of geographical inftruments. Next to Sir John Chardin's, and in the fame elevated lituation is a very elegant monument creeled to General Hargrave, repreienting the general refurrection. The archangel appears in the clouds founding his trumpet, on which aweful fummons, the monument appears as tumbling in'.o pieces. The tomb opens, and the de- ceafed appears rifing from the fepulchre with the wind- ing fheet expanded in one of his hands. In his coun- tenance are imprinted thofe marks of awe and terror which muft feize upon every mortal at that dreadful period. On the fide of the tomb lies death proftrate on the ground conquered by time, with his crown fallen from his head ; or as the rpoftle elegantly exprefles it, '* fwallowed up in victory." While time is (landing over the king of terrors with his fcythe reverfed, and breaking the mortal (haft of death. It was executed by the famous Rubiliac. A tomb erected to the memory of Anne Fielding, the firft wife of Sir Samuel Morland, Knt. and Bart, is re- markable only for having two very learned inferiptions : the fuft, in Hebrew, is to this effect. O thou faireft among women ! O virtuous woman ! The hand of the Lord has done this. The Lord gave and the Lord hath taken away, blefled be the name of the Lord. Underneath this is an Ethiopic infeription, which has been thus tranflated. Come let us lament over this monument, raifed for thee by a beloved hufband; but in certain hope thou art united with Chrift. This lady was truly religious, virtuous, faithful, and as a dove, mild and chafte; while fhe continued in life, (he was honoured, and, through mercy, is happy in death. Under the Ethiopic is this infeription in Englifh ; Anne, daughter to George Fielding, Efq; and of Mary his wife, the truly loving (and as truly beloved) wife of Samuel Morland, Knt. and Bart, died Feb. 20, Ann. Dom. 1679-80. Near this laft is a tomb much in the fame tafte, erected to the memory of Carola Harfnet, the fecond wife of the fame Baronet, who died in childbed of her fecond fon, Oct. jo, 1674, in«the 23d year of her age. Here are two inferiptions, the firft in Hebrew, and the other in Greek, which have been thus tranflated. Blefled be the Lord my wife was precious : blefled be thy rememberance, O virtuous woman. When I think of thy mildnefs, patience, charity, modefty and piety, I lament thee, O moll excellent creature, and grieve exceedingly : but not like fucn as have no faith ; for I believe and expect the refurrection cf thofe who fleep in Chrift. Between the two former is a beautiful monument to the memory of John Smith, Efq; A fine buft in relievo of that gentleman is fupported by a weeping figure re- prefenting his daughters, both which are defigned and executed with great judgment and fpirit. The Lady fits upon an urn, which with its bafe and pyramid a be- 16 E S E X. 173 hind, unite the whole in a moft harmonious s.nd agree- able ftile. On the bafe is a Latin infeription, fetting forth his defcent and iflue'. Above thefe is a very fuperb monument, to the memory of General Fleming. Hercules is reprefented as binding up his trophies ; while Minerva, fitting in a penfive attitude, is pointing to a medallion of the genera], placed on a column above thefe flatues. The figures are finely executed, and intended to reprefent that wifdom to plan, and ftrength to execute, were united in General Fleming ; but has been feverely cen- fured by Mr. Harvey, in his Therein, and Afpafio, 2s very improper for a chriftian church, the ftatue of Her- cules having no other covering than that of a lion's fkin, by which the nudities, in the opinion of that in- genuous writer, are too much expofed. Next to the above, and over the door that opens into the cloifters, is a noble and elegant monument erected to General Wade. In the center is a beautiful marble pillar, enriched with military trophies, moft excuifi.ely wrought. The principal figures 2re Fame pufhing back Time, who is eagerly approaching to demolifhthe pillar, with all the enfigns of honour with which it is adorned ; the General's head is in a medallion, and the whole is executed with great beauty and elegance. The inferip- tion underneath runs thus: " To the memory of George Wade, field- marfhal of his majefty's forces, lieutenant general of the ordnance, colonel of his majefty's third regiment of dragoon guards, governor of fort-William, fort- Auguftus andfort-Gecrge, and one of his majefty's moft honourable privy council. He died March 14, 1748, aged feventy-five." An elegant monument of Mrs. Katharine Bovey. Faith is here reprefented with her bock clofed, and Wif- dom lamenting the death of her patronefs, betv/een which is the lady's head in relief, enclofcd in an annulet of black marble curioufly veined- The infeription, which is in Englifh, gives us an excellent character of the deceafed, who died on the twenty-firft of January 1726, in the feventy-fecond year of her age; and informs us that Mrs, Mary Pope, who lived with her near forty years in perfect fiiendfhip, erected this monument to her memory. Above this is a fine monument, to the memory of the late gallant Lord Howe. On the top is a trophy of arms in curious marble; and on a flat pyramid of black mar- ble, are his lordfhip's arms, coronet, and creft, in white marble : on the top of the monument fits the figure of a woman in a melancholy pofition, reprefenting the province of Maflachufet's bay, and on a large tablet of marble, the following infeription. " The province of Maflachufet's bay, in New Eng- land, by an order of the great and general court, bearing date Feb. 1, 1759, caufed this monument to be erec- ted to the memory of George Auguftus, Lord Vifcount Howe, brigadier general of his majefty's forces in Ame- rica, who was flain on the lixth of July, 1758, on his march to Ticonderago, in the thirty-fourth year of his age; in teftimony of the fenfe they had of the fervices and military virtues, and of the affection their officers and foldiers bore to his command. He lived refpected and beloved; the public regretted his lofs ; to his family it is irreparable." A fmall table monument to the memory of Mr. Henry Wharton, which is only remarkable on account of the diftjnguifhed character of the perfon whofe name is in- fcribed upon it. Mr. Wharton was rector of Chatham in Kent, vicar of the church of Minfter in the ifle of Thanet, chaplain to archbifhop Sancroft, and one of the moft volumnbus writers ofhisyears. He died on the third of March 1694, aged only thirty one, and was fo uni- verfally refpected by the bifhops and clergy, that arch- bifhop Tillotfon, and feveral other prelates, with a vaft body of the clergy, the choir and king's fcholars, all in folemn proceflion, attended at his funeral, and joined in an anthem compofed on this occafion by the great Purcel. The monument of John Friend, M. D. has an ad- mirable buft of that gentleman, ftanding on a pedeftal of fine white veined marble, and under it is a long in- Y y fcription M I D D L E S E X. f.ription In Latin, Setting forth the diftinguifhed acquire- ments, and great abilities of that eminent phyfician. Mr. Congrcve's monument has an half length marble portrait of that gentlemen, placed on a pedettul of fine Egyptian marble, and enriched with emblematical de- vices relating to the drama. Underneath is this inscrip- tion in Englifh. Mr. William Congreve died the nineteenth of Janu- ary, 1728, aged fifty-fix, and was buried near this place. To whofe moft valuable memory this monu- ment is Set up by Henrietta Duchcfs of Marlborough, as a mark how dearly (he remembers the happinefs Bre enjoyed in the fincere Sriendfhip of fo worthy and honeft a man, whofe virtue, candour and wit, gained him the love and efteem of the prefent age ; and whofe writings will be the admiration of the future. The monument of the Right Hon. James Craggs, ESq; his ftatue is reprefented leaning on an urn, and was one of the firft in the abbey reprefented Handing. The inscription, which is in golden characters, Shews that he was principal Secretary of ftate, and a man univer- fally beloved, which is there particularly remarked, becaufe as he was only a Shoe-maker's fon, it is the more furprizing that in the high {ration to which he was raifed by his merit, he fhoul 1 efcape envy, and ac- quire the general efteem. He died on the Sixteenth of Feb. 1720. Upon the bafe of this monument are the following lines, written by Mr. Pope : StateSman, yet friend to truth, of foul fincere, Inaction faithful, and in honour clear. Who broke no promife, ferv'd no private end ; Who gained no title, and who loft no friend j Ennobled by himfelf, by all approv'd : Prais'd, wept, and honour'd by the mufe he lov'd. A. Pope. On the fouth-fide of the' great weft entrance is a noble monument erected to the memory of the brave Captain Cornwall, who, after diftinguifhing himfelf by his. heroifrn, was unhappily Slain in battle between the Eng- lilh fleet, commanded by the Admirals Matrhews and Leftock, and the combined fleets of France and Spain. This monument was erected to his honour by order of parliament, and is a noble teftimony of the public gra- titude for his diftinguifhed merit. On the back is a lofty pyramid of Egyptian marble, beautifully variegated, and finely polifhed, ftanding on a bafe of the fame marble. Upon this bafe is a rock of white marble, along the different parts of which run fea-weeds. Near the top ftands a fine figure of Fame, placing a medallion of the captain on the fummit of the rock, underneath which is a naval crown, a globe, the trumpet of Fame, and other ornaments, and behind rifes. to the top of the pe- diment a palm, entwined with a laurel. On the other fide of the medallion ftands a beautiful Britannia, with the Britifh lion couchant at her feet. Beneath, in air opening of the rock, is a Latin infeription on a fine piece of polifhed porphyry, mentioning his defcent, and the manner of his death, which happened while fight- ing for his country, on the third of Feb. 1743, in the forty-fifth year of his age, and that the fenate of Britain confecrated this monument to his memory. In another opening of the rock, a little lower, is reprefented in bas relief a view of the engagement in which this great man perifhed, and at the bottom of the rock on the fides lie canons, flags, anchors, ccc. all of white marble. The next is an elegant monument for Sir Thomas Ha/dy, Knt. On the back is a lofty pyramid of a bluifh coloured marble, at the foot of which the ftatue of the deceafed is placed, reclining upon a tomb of ele- gant workmanfhip, with a naked boy on his left fide weeping over an urn : the enrichments round the pe- deftal on which he ftands are juft and proper; and the infeription contains the following fhort hiftory of his life. Sir Thomas Hardy, to whofe memory this monument is erected, was bred in the royal navy from his youth, and was made a captain in 1693. In the expedition to Cadiz, under Sir George Rooke, he comn amkd the Pembroke ; and when the fleet left the coait: of Spain, to return to England, he was or- dered to Lagos Bny, when he got intel'igenoe of the Spanifh galleons being arrived in the harbour of Vigo, under convoy of Seventeen French men of war : by his great diligence and judgment he joined the EngliSh fleet, and gave the admiral that intelligence wfricn engaged him to make the beft of his way to Vigo, where all the afore-mentioned galleons and men of war were either taken or deftroyed. After the fuccefs of that action, the admiral Sent him with an account of it to the queen, who ordered him a confiderablr prefent, and knighted him. Some years afterwards he was made a rear admiral 5 , and received Several other marks of favour and efieem from her majefty,. and from her royal cenfort Prince George of Denmark, Lord High Admiral of England. The monument of Sir Godfrey Kneller, Knt. has a bull: of Sir Godfrey under a canopy of State, the curtains of which are gilt, and Ked with golden firings,, and on- each fide the buft is a weeping Cupid, one reicing on a- framed picture, the other holding a painter's pallet and pencils. This monument is not however much eSteem- cd. In the pedeftal is a Latin inScription, Signifying that Sir Godfrey Kneller, Knt. who lies interred here, was painter to king. Charles If. king James II. king Wil- liam III. queen. Anne, and king George I. Under- neath is his epitaph written by Mr. Pope, which has been alSo much cenSured. Kneller, by heav'n, and not a mafter taught, Wl.ofe art was nature, and whoSe pictures thought \ Now Sor two ages having Snatch'd Srom Sate Whate'er was beauteous, or whate'erwas great, Refts crovvn'd with princes honours, poets lays, Due to his merit, and brave thirft of praifc. Living, great nature fear'd he might outvie Her works, and dying Sears herSelf may die. A. Pope. The monument oS John Woodward, M. D. is a very beautiSul one, and the figures moft admirably finifhed. The head of the deceafed is reprefented in profile in a very mafterly manner, and the lady who holds it is ini- mitably performed. The inScription contains a panegy- ric on the parts and learning of the deceafed. The monument oS Mr. Killegrew has been reckoned one of the beft pieces oS Sculpture in the whole church, and what is remarkable, is cut out of one Stone. The embellishments are diftinct and very picturclque, and the inScription fhort, modeft, and Soldier-like. It is as fol- lows ; Robert Killegrew, oS Arwenach in Cornwall, ESq; Son of Thomas and Charlotte, page of honour to king Charles II. brigadier general of her majefty's forces, killed in Spain in the battle of Almanga, the fourteenth of April, 1707. ./Etatis fuze 47. Militavi Annis 24. The next monument of note is that erected to the memory of the celebrated Dr. Mead. The buft of that great man is finely executed, and will convey to pofterity the features oS a phyfician, who dkl honour to his coun- try : but the Latin infeription cannot be commended for the elegance oS the language. The monument oS Philip Carteret, fon to Lord George Carteret, who died a king's Scholar at Weftmin- fter, ripe for the univerfity, on the nineteenth oS March 1 7 10, aged nineteen. On the upper partis an admir- able buft of this noble youth, and underneath a very fine figure of Time ftanding on an altar ; and holding a Scroll in his hand, whereon is written, in Saphic verSes, lines to the following import, which he is Suppofed to be re- peating. Why flows the mournful mufe^s tear, For thee! cut down in life's full prime? Why fighs for thee, the parent dear ! Cropt by the Scythe of hoary Time ? Lo! this, my boy's, the common lot ! To me thy memory entruft; When all that's dear Shall be forgot,. I'll guard thy venerable duff From age to age as I proclaim. Thy learning, piety, and truth, Thy great example Shall inflame. And emulation raife in youth, A Small M I D D L £ S E X ■A (nvdll hwt elegant monument, erected to the memory of the celebrated H^tiry Puree!!, Efq; well known by his ad:v/able nuifical compofition. The infcription confifts of this fhort and comprehenfive fentence: c ' Hcc lies Hem v Purcell, who left this life, and is gone to that bieft peace, where only his harmony can be exceeded. He died the twenty-firft of November 1697, ' n - v ' s tbii ty-feventh year." The next is the monument erected to the memory of admiral Weft, on which is the following infcription : Sacred to the memory of Temple West, Efq; Who dedicating himfeif from his earlieft youth To the naval ferviceof his country, Rofe with merit and reputation to the rank of Vice-admiral of the white : Sagacious, active, indtiftrious, He was a fkilful feaman, Cq<>], intrepid, and refolute. He approved himfeif a gallant officer in the fignal victory Obtained over the French, May 3, 1747. Ha was Cu.pt. of the fhip which carried Sir Peter Warren, And acquir'd peculiar honour, Even on that day of general glory, In the Ids fiiccefsh.il engagement near Minorca, May 20, 1756, Wherein as rear-admiral he commanded the 2d divifion. His diftingui&ed courage and animating example W r ere admired by the whole Bi icifh fquadron ; ConfciVd by that of France ; And amidft the national difcontent which foliow'd, Rewarded as they deferv'd by the warmeft applaufe of His country, and the juft approbation of his fovereign. On the 17th Nov. following He was appointed One of the lords cornmiffioners of the admiralty. He adorned this ftation By a modefty which concealed from him hisown merit, And aeandor which difpos'd him to reward that of others. With thefe public talents He poflefs'd the milder graces of domeftic life. *To the frank and generous fpiritof an officer, He added theeafe and politenefs of a gentleman, And with the moral and focial virtues of a good man, He exercifed the duties of a chriftian. A life fo honourable to himfeif, So dear to his friends, fo ufeful to his country, Was ended at the age of 43, A. D. 1757. To preferve to pofterity His fame and his example,, This monument was erected By the daughter of the brave unfortunate Balchen, The wife of Temple Weft, A. D. 1761. The next is the monument of William Croft, doctor of mufic : on the pedeftal is an organ in bas relief, and on the top a buft of the deceafed. Near the above is a neat monument, erected to Philip de Saufmarez, where the portrait of the deceafed is well executed in baflb relievo : and below is the following inicription : " Sacred to the memory of Philip de Saufmarez, Efq; one of the few whole lives ought rather to be meafured by their actions than their days. From fixteen to thirty- feven years of age, he ferved in the navy, and was often furrounded with dangers and difficulties unparalleled, always approving himfeif an able, active, and gallant off.cer. He went out a lieutenant on board his majefty's fhip the Centurion, under the aufpicious conduit of commodore Anfon, in his expedition to the fouth feas. He was commanding officer of the faid fhip, when fhe was driven from her moorings at the ifle of Tinian, in the year 1 746. Being captain of the Nottingham, a ftxty gun fhip, he (then alone) attacked, and took the Mars, a French fhip of fixty-four guns. In the firft enpa.^ement of the following year, when admiral Anfon defeated, and took a fquadron of French men of war and Indiamen, he had an honourable fhare : and in the fecond, under admiral HaWke, when the enemy, after a long and obuinate refiltance, was again routed, in purfuing two fhips that were making their efcape,- he* glorioufly, but unfortunately, fell. He was the fon of Matthew de Saufmarez, of the ifland of Guetnfey, Efqj by Ann Durel of the ifland of Jerfey, his wife. He was born the feventeenth of November, 1710; killed the fourteenth of October, 1747 ; buried in the old church at Plymouth, with all the honours due to his diftin- guifhed merits ; and this monument is erected out of gratitude and aitecftion by his brothers and fifters." The tomb of John Blow, doctor of mufic, is adorned with cherubs, flowers, and a canon in four parts, fet to mufic. In the centre is an Englifh infcription, by which it appears he was organifl, compofer, and mifter to the children in the Chapel Royal thirty-five jfe , and or- ganift to this abbey fifteen years; that he was G '~iolar to Dr. Chriftopher Gibbons, and mafter to the famous Mr. Purcell, and to moft of the eminent maflxrs of his time. He died on the firft of October, 1708, in his fixtieth year; and his epitaph oblerves, that his \ own mufical compofitions, efpecially his church muiic, are a far nobler monument to his memory, than any other that can be raifed to him. We come now to ■'he neat and eleg.mt monument of j)r. Boultir, archbifiiop ai Armagn, in Irc : md. It ia of the fineft marblf, beautified with «n admirable new- invented polifh. The buft of this worthy archbifhop is finely executed : his lon by the officers of this parifh a few years ago, for four hundred guineas. The church of St. John the Evangelift was built in 1728, and is remarkable only for having funk while it | was building, which occafioned an alteration in the plan. On the north and fouth fides of this church are magnificent porticoes, fupported by vaft ftone pillars, as is alfo the roof of the church. At each of the four corners is a beautiful ftone tower and pinnacle : thefe additions were erected, that the whole might fink e- qually, and owe their magnitude to the fame caufe. The parts of this building are held together by iron bars, which crofs even the ifles. Near the abbey church is the king's fchool, ufually called Weftminfter fchool. It was originally founded in 1070, and founded a fecond time by queen Eliza- beth in 1560, whence it is fometimes called the Queen's college, for a head mafter, a fecond mafter, and forty fcholars, who are called King's fcholars, and fitted for the un.verfity: they are provided with all neceflaries ex- cept cloathing, of which they have only a gown once a year. This is now become one of the greateft fchools in the kingdom : it has not only a firft and fecond mailer, but five ufheis ; and befides the boys upon the foundation, here are between three and four hundred young gentlemen, molt of them the children of perfons of the firft fortunes and families in the kingdom. Out of this fchool fix or more boys are elected yearly for Trinity College, in Cambridge, and Chrift's Church, in Oxford.' Near the weft gate of the abbey church is a building called the Gate-houfe, which is ufed as a prifon, both for debtors and felons, and was erected in the time of king Edward III. In a place called Tothill-fields, in the parifh of St. Margaret, there is a bridewell or wcrk-houfe ; and in the fame parifh, an ho.'pkal, founded by king Charles I. 17 for poor orphans, befides ten alms-houfcs* and fix eha- rity-fchools. . On the north-eaft fide of the abbev church* is an old Gothic buildin;;", called Weftminfter-hall, firft built by William Rufus, as an addition to a royal palace there* and afterwards rebuilt by kin^ Richard ii. in the year 1397. It is reckoned cue of the largeft rooms in Eu- rope, being two hundred and feventy feet long, feventy- four feet brond, and ninety feet high, fupported only by buttreffes* without one pillar : the roof is timber, and was a few years ago flated, the old covering of lead be- ing thought too heavy : the pavement is of ftone. In this'fpacious room the kings of England have generally held their coronation, and other folemn feafts. It is generally ufed for the trial of peers ; and here, ever fince the reign of Henry IIL the three great courts of C lan- cery, King's Benclv and Common Pieas, have been generally held at the four terms of the year; and the court of Exchequer is held above ftairs. Adjoining to the fouth-eaft angle of Weflminfter- hall, is a buil 'ing formerly called St. Stephen's chapel, from its having been dedicated to St. Stephen. It was founded by king Stephen, and in 134.7, rebuilt by king Edward III. who converted it to a collegiate church ; but ever fince it was furrendeied to Edward VI. it has been ufed for the aflembly of the reprefentatives of the Commons of England, and is now generally called the Houfe of Commons. It is a neat room, capable or holding fix hundred perfons, and has commodious apart- ments about it, as the fpeaker's chamber, rooms for committees, and other offices. The benches for the members, which gradually afcend one above another, as in a theatre, are covered with green cloth ; the floor is matted, and there are wainfcot ov.lleries aroun . it, fuftained by cantilevers adorned with carved work, where ftrangers are often permitted to fit and hear the debates. Adjoining to Weflminfter-hall, on the fouth fide, is an edifice called the Houi'e of Lords, o;' tne Hcufe of Peers, from being the place where .the peers of Great Britain aflemble in parliament. This houfe fbnds fouth and north, as that of the Commons docs eaft and weft. It is an oblong room, fomewhat lefs than that in which the Commons meet, and is hung with fine o!u tap-ftry, with hiftorical figures, reprefenting the defeat of the Spanifh Armada in 1588, the gift of the ftates of Hol- land to queen Elizabeth. Here is a throne for the king, with feats on the right and left for fuch princes of the blood as are peers of the realm. Before the throne are three broad feats, fluffed with wool ; on the firft of which, next to the throne, fits the lord chancellor, or keeper of the great feal, who is fpeaker of the H ,u(e of Peers; and on the other two fit the judges, the mafter of the Rolls, or the mafters in Chancery, who attend occafionally to be confulted in points of law. The two archbilhops fit at fome diftance from the throne, on the right hand, and the other bifhops in a row under them. The benches for the lords fpiritual and tempoial are co- vered with red cloth ; and there is a bar acrofs the houfe* at the end oppofite to che throne. Adjoining to the Houfe of Lords is an apartment called the Prince's Chamber, where the king is robed when he comes to the houfe; and there are other apart- ments in which the peers put on their robes. Between the Houfe of Lords and the Houfe of Com- mons is an apartment called the Court of Requefts, where fuch as have bufinefs in either houfe attend. Another apartment, called the Painted Chamber, ftands alfo between both houfes : this is faid to have been Edward the Confefibr's bed-chamber, and the room in which the parliaments were anciently opened. Conferences are often held;here between the two houfes* or their committees, there being a gallery of communi- cation for the members of the Houfe of Commons to come up without being crowded. But the principal public building in Weftminfter, i3 a bridge, called Weftminfter-bridge, built over the Thames, from a place called the Wcolftaple, near New Palace-yard, to the oppofite fhore. The horfe-ferry at Weftminfter was perhaps one of the moft frequented paffages over th? laser of Thames, ever fince the build- B b b in- M 1 D D iflg of London biidgc, and laying afide the ancient ferry there. From the multitude of coaches, carriages and horfes, continually pa/ling and rcpaffing at all hours, times and feafons, many inconveniences and accidents unavoidably happened, and in a courfe of time many lives were loll. To prevent thefe inconveniencics and dangers, the archbifhopof Canterbury, and feveral other noblemen, in the year 1736, procured an act 01 parlia- ment for building a bridge acrofs the Thames, from New Palace-yard, to the oppofite fhore in the county of Surry : but this act was not obtained without great op- pofition from the people of London and Southwark, and fome fainter efforts ufed by the bargemen and watermen of the Thames ; but private intereft was obliged to give way to the public advantage, and preparations were made for carrying on this great work under the fanction of the legiflature. At length, the ballaft-men of Tr'mity-houfe were employed to open a large hole for the foundation of the firft pier, to the depth of five feet under the bed of the river ; and this being finifhed and levelled at the bottom, it was kept to a level by a proper inclofure of ftrong piles. Mean while, a ftrong cafe of oak, fecured and ftrengthened with large beams, was prepared, of the form and dimenfions of the intended pier in the clear : this was made water-proof, and being brought over the place, was fecured within the piles. In this wooden cafe the firft ftone was laid on the twenty-ninth of January 1738-9, by the late earl of Pembroke : the cafe of boards was above the high-water mark, and it finking gradually by the weight of the prodigious blocks of ftone ftrongly cemented to its bot- tom, the men continued to work as on dry ground, though at a great depth under water. Thus the weftern middle pier was firft formed, and in the fame manner were all the other piers erected, and when finifhed, the planks on the fides being taken off, the ftone-work ap- peared entire. The fuperftructure was added in the common method, and the whole finifhed in the moft neat and elegant manner, and with fuch fimplicity and grandeur, that whether viewed from the water, or more clofely examined by the paffenger who goes over it, it fills the mind with an agreeable furprife. This bridge is univerfally allowed to be one of the fineftin the world. It is adorned and fecured on. each fide by a very lofty and noble baluftrade, there are re- ceffes over every pier, which is a femiocfagon. Twelve of them are covered with half domes, viz. four at each end, and four in the middle. Between thefe in the middle are pedeftals, on which was intended a group of figures ; this would greatly add to the magnificence, by making the centre more principal, ( which it ought to be) and giving it an air of magnificence and grandeur fuit- able to the city to which it belongs. A great number of lamps are fo agreeably difpofed on the top of the recefTes, as at once to contribute to the purpofes of ufe and beauty. This magnificent ftrudture is one thoufand two hundred and twenty-three feet in length, and above three hundred feet longer than London bridge. The afcent at the top is extremely well managed, and the room allowed for paffengers, confifts of a commodious foot-way, feven feet broad on each fide, paved with broad moor-ftone, and raifed above the road allowed for carriages. This laft is thirty feet wide, and is fufficient to admit the paiTage of three carriages and two horfes on a breaft, without the leaft danger. The conftruction and diftance of the piers from each other arc fo managed, that the vacancies under the arches allowed for the water-way, are four times as much as at London-bridge ; and in confequence of this, there is no fall, nor can the leaft danger arrive to boats in paffing through the arches. The piers, which are fourteen, have thirteen large and two fmall arches, all femicircular. Thefe, with two abutments, conftitute the bridge, whofe ftrength is not inferior to its elegance. The length of every pier is feventy-feet, and each end is terminated with a faliant angle againft either ftream. The breadth of the two middle piers is feven- teen feet at the fpringing of the arches, and contain three' thoufand cubic feet, or near two hundred tons of folid L E S E X. ftone ; and the others on each fide, regularly decreaf: one 1 foot in breadth, fo that the two next to the largeft are each fixteen feet, and fo on to the two leaft next the fides, wkich are no more than twelve feet wide at the fpringing of the arches. The centre arch is feventy-fix feet wide, and the others decreafe in width four feet on each fide, fo that the two next to the centre arch are feventy-two feet wideband fo on to the leaft of the large arches, which are each fifty-two feet wide, and the two fmall ones in the abutments clofe to the fliorc, are about twenty feet in width. The foundation of the bridge is laid on a folid and firm mafs of gravel which lies at the bottom of the bed of the river; but at a much greater depth on the Surry than the Weftminfter fide; and this inequality of the ground required the heights of the feveral piers to be very different, as fome have their foundations laid at five feet, and others at fourteen feet under the bed of the river. The piers are all four feet wider at their foun- dation than at the top, and are founded on the bottoms of the above-mentioned wooden cafes formed of the moft fubftantial work, eighty feet in length, twenty- eight in breadth, and thefe timbers are two feet in thick- nefs. The caiffon or wooden cafe, in which the firft pier was built, contained an hundred and fifty loads of timber ; and forty thoufand pound weight is computed to be always under water in ftone and timber. The materials are much funerior to thofe commonly ufed on fuch occafions : the infide is ufually filled up with chalk, fmall ftones, orrubbifh; but here all the piers are the fame on the infide as without, of fol;d blocks of Portland ftone, many of which are four or five tons weight, and oone lefs than a ton, except the clofers, or fmaller ones, intended for faftening the o-< thers, one of which has its place between every four of the large ones. Thefe vaft blocks are perfectly well wrought for uniting; they are laid in Dutch terrace, and alfo faftened together with iron cramps run in with lead. All this iron-work is,, however, entirely con- cealed, and fo placed, that none of them can be affected by the water. It is alfo worthy of remark, that the fofnt of every arch is turned and built quite through with blocks of Portland ftone, over which is built and bonded in with it, another arch of Purbeck ftone, four or five times thicker on the reins than over the key ; and by this fc- condary arch, together with the incumbent load of ma- terials, all the parts of every arch are in equihbrio, and the whole weight fo happily adjufted, that each arch can ftand fingle, without affecting, or being affected by the other arches. In fhort, between every two arches a drain is contrived to carry off the water and filth that might in time penetrate and accumulate in thofe places, to the great detriment of the arches. Though the greateft care was taken in laying the foundation deep in the gravel, and ufing every probabla method to prevent the finking of the piers, yet all this was in fome degree ineffectual; for one of them funic fo confiderably when the work was very near completed, as to retard the finifhing it a confiderable time. This gave the higheft fatisfactior. to thofe who had oppofed this noble work : but the commiflioncrs for building the bridge immediately ordered the arch fupported by that pier, on the fide where it had funk, to be taken down, and then caufed the bafe of the pier to be loaded with incredible weights, till all the fettlement that could be forced was made. After this the arch was rebuilt, and has ever fince been as fecure as the reft. In fhort, the laft ftone was laid in November T74.7, eleven years and nine months from the beginning of the conftruction ; a very fhort period, conlidering the vaft- nefs of the undertaking, the prodigious quantity of ftone made ufe of, hewn out of the quarry, and brought by fea ; the interruptions of winter, the damage fre-- quently dene by the ice to the piles and fcafiojding, and the unavoidable interruptions occafioned twice a day by, the tide, which, for two years together, reduced the time of labour to only five hours a day. The expenceof erecting this bridge, and of procuring all the requifito conveniences, MIDDLESEX. convcnicncics, was defrayed by parliament, and a- mounted to three hundred and eighty-nine thoufand, five hundred pounds, which was raifed by feveral lot- teries. This bridge, confidered in itfelf, is not only a great ornament to this metropolis, and of the mo(t fingular advantage to the city of Weftminfter ; but it has entirely changed the appearance of that city ; new and beautiful ftreets have been erected ; thofe that were before narrow, crooked and ill-buiit, have been widened, rendered ftraight, and rebuilt with regularity and elegance. And new plans of improvement are daily formed, and conti- nually putting in execution. On the bank of the Thames, at the confines of St. Margaret's parifh, and next to thofe of St. Martin's in the Fields, was a palace called Whitehall, originally built by Hubert de Burgh, earl of Kent, before the year 1243. It afterwards came to the archbifhops of York; whence it was called York Place, and continued to be the city refidence of the archbifhops, till it was pur- chafed by king Henry VIII. of cardinal Wolfey, in 1530; then it became the place of refidence for the court, and continued fo till the year 1697, when, by accidental fire, it was all burnt down, except the part called the Banquetting-houfe, which had been added to the palace of Whitehall by king James I. according to a defign of Inigo Jones. This Banquetting-houfe is an elegant and magnificent ftructure, built of hewn ftone, adorned with an upper and lower range of pillars, of the Jonic and Compofite order : the capitals are enriched with fruit and foliage; and between the columns are the Windows. The roof is covered with lead, and fur- rounded with a baluftrade. The Banquetting-houfj ^hiefly confifts of one room, of an oblong form, forty feet high, and a proportionable length and breadth. Thecieiing is painted by the celebrated Sir Peter Paul Rubens. It is now ufed only as a chapel-royal, and the .reft of the h'oti'fe ferves for ftate offices. Oppofite to the Banquetting-houfe is a modern edifice, in a very good manner, called the Horfe-guards, from the king'i horfe-guards, who, while his majefty refides at St. James's palace, do duty here, two at a time being conftantly mounted, and completely armed, under two flope porches detached from the building, and erected to fhelter them from the weather. This ftructure confifts of a centre and two wings. In the centre is an arched paffage into St. James's Park ; and the building over this has a pediment, on which are the king's arms cut in bas relief. The wing on each fide of this centre is a pavilion, and in the middle rifes a cupola: the wings are plainer than the centre, and confift each of a front, projecting a little, with ornamented windows in the principal {lory, and a plain one in the fides : each has its pediment, with a circular window in the centre. Near the Horfe-guards is the Treafury, under the government of five lords commiffioners, one of whom is called firft lord of the treafury : under thefe are two joint fecretaries, four chief clerks, and fixteen under clerks, with other officers. This building fronts the Parade in St. James's Park, and confifts of three ftories. It has a court on the infide, furrounded with buildings. The office of trade and plantations is alfo kept here, Under the government of eight commiffioners, and other offi- cers, whofe bufinefs it is to examine the cuftom-houfe accounts of all the goods exported and imported to and from the feveral parts of the kingdom; in order to dif- covcr the advantages and difadvantages of the trade of this nation with other kingdoms and ftates, in regard to the balance of trade ; and alfo to benefit our plantations, by promoting their trade, and encouraging fuch branches as are moft conducive to their refpective interefts, as well as that of the kingdom in general. The church of St. Martin was fo called from having been dedicated to St. Martin. It is alfo diftinguifhed by the name of St. Martin's in the Fields, from its fitua- tion, which was formerly a field, with only a few houfes about it ; though now it is nearly in the centre of that vaft mafs of buildings which has connected Weftminfter with London, and runs out collaterally to a very great extent. The church of St. Martin being decayed, was rebuilt by Henry VIII. It was afterwards rebuilt by king James I. but not being large enough to accommo- date the inhabitants, it was augmented in 1607, at the charge of prince Henry, eldeft fon of James I. and fe • veral of the nobility ; but after many expenfive repara- tions, it was entirely taken down in 1720, according to an act 01 parliament, and a new church begun, which was finifh«| in 1726. This is an elegant edifice, built of ftone. It has a noble portico on the weft front, of Corinthian columns, fupporting a pediment, in which are the royal arms cut in bas relief. The afcent to this portico is by a flight of very long fteps. The length of this church is about one hundred and forty feet, the breadth fixty, and the height forty-five : it has a fine arched roof, fuftained by Corinthian ftone columns. The fteeple has a beautiful fpire, and one of the belt rings of bells in London. The parifh of St. Martin, which is fuppofed to have been originally taken out of St. Margaret's, has fo increafed both in houfes and in- habitants, that it is now one of the largeft and moft po- pulous in the bills of mortality ; and though the parifhes of St. Paul's, Covent-Garden, St. Anne's, St. James's^ and St. George's, Hanover-fquare, have been taken out of it, the number of its houfes is computed at no lefs than four thoufand. The Admiralty-office is in this parifh, and is a mag- nificent ftructure, built with brick and ftone. Theeaft front has two deep wings, and a very lofty portico, fup- ported by four very large ftone pillars. Befides a hall, and other common rooms, here are feven fpacious houfes for feven commiffioners of the Admiralty. The wall before the court has been lately rebuilt in an elegant manner : a piazza, confifting of beautiful columns, runs almoft from one end to the other, and each fide of the gate is ornamented with a fea-horfe, not ill cut in ftone. In this office are tranfacted all affairs belonging to the jurifdiction of the Admiralty ; admirals, captains, and other naval officers, are nominated, and orders iffued for the trial of thofe who have failed in their duty. In the parifh of St. Martin, where feveral capital ftreets terminate, is a large opening called Charing-crofs, from one of the crofles which king Edward I. caufed to be erected in memory of his queen Eleanor, and Cha- ring, the name of a village which flood on the fpot where the crofs was built. The crofs continued till the civil wars in the reign of Charles I. when it was en- tirely deftroyed by the fanatics, as a monument of po- pifh fuperftition ; but after the reftoration, an equeftrian ftatue of king Charles I. was fet up in its ftead. This ftatue ftill remains ; it is of braf>, and very finely exe- cuted. It Hands on a pedeftal feventeen feet high, and is fecured by a pallifade, inclofing an area of thirty feet diameter, which is elevated about twelve inches above the ftreet. Near Charing-crofs, upon the eaft fide, is Northum- berland-houfe, fo called from its having been in pofief- fion of the earls of Northumberland for more than a hundred years. It was originally built in the reign of king James I. by Henry Howard, earl of Northampton, and is almoft the only houfe of the ancient nobility re- maining in London. It originally confifted of three fides only, but is now a fpacious quadrangle, with a large garden and fine walks behind it, extending almoft to the Thames. From the fize of Northumberland-houfe, one would imagine there were more rooms of magnificence and fliew 1 than are found in it, at leaft, if all worth feeing are fhewn. We faw only one fuite of rooms ; entering a common dining parlour about twenty feet by twenty; out of that into a dining-room, forty-five by twenty, handfomely furnifhed ; the chimney-piece elegant, Siena and white marble in compartments, with a central piece of baffo relievo polifhed ; and ail fupported by two very handfome fluted pillars of Siena marble. In this room is found that noble picture, the Cornaro family, by Titian, which highly deferves the admiration of every lover of painting. Thofe who have not viewed the ca- pital well-preferved pieces of this mafter in the foreign collections, but have drawn their ideas of him from his works in England, will be furprifed to find the colouring of MIDDLE X. of this picture what may yet be called frefh. The heads and hands are of the moft perfect expreffion ; not the imitation of life, but life itfelf ; nothing can be in a finer tafte than thefe three exquifite portraits. The connoifieurs may ciifcover beauties of a peculiar nature in this piece-, but the unlearned fpectator, who viev/s with no prejudices but thofe in favour of nature, will be ftruck greatly at the fight of fuch venerable heads, that carry in their air, and every trait, the marks of fuch genuine expreffion. Next comes a drawing-room, forty by twenty : this is alfo weiUfurnifhed ; the chimney-piece light and ele- gant ; the molaic'd ceiling in the frefco ftile, pretty. At one end is a large landfcape by Salvator Rofa, which is fine; rocks and trees jumbled together in the wild- nefs of that romantic genius, which feemed formed by nature to catch her fublimeft hints; with' a little group of figures dropped from a whirlwind. Oppofite, Jxion by Lancetti, an horrible fubject, and handled in a dark, but not an inexpreiTive manner. Befides thefe pieces, is a fin all landfcape of a ftream, with a bridge over it cut out of the rock ; it is a pleafing, natural, glowing piece. The two larger pictures, companions, one on each fide the chimney, of female figures, want that agrement^ that foft, voluptuous elegance of the naked, which ought ever to be found in pieces of this fort : that on the right fide of the chimney is by much the molt pleaf- ing, the attitude of the woman is eafy, and expreffively painted. Over the landfcape by Salvator, is a very pleafing picture of Venus lying along on a coach, which in foftnefs, colouring, and an enticing expreffion of the e;nbonpoint, is well worth attention ; it reminds one of the famous Venus by Titian ; like his, her face is by no means anfwerable to her body ; the pofture is in every refpect the fame, except the pofition of the left hand, which Titian has thrown negligement fur ce, fays M. Cochin, que la mode/lie doit cacber, but here it falls on the thigh. Which is the moft modeft of thefe Venus's ? From this drawing-room, we enter a fmall breakfaft- room of about twenty by twenty, hung with tapeftry ; and out of that into the great ball-room, one of the moft elegant in London : it is one hundred and three feet long, twenty -feven broad, and thirty-two high, richly ornamented with gilding, Sic. The ceiling (v/hich is coved) is very beautifully adorned with me- dallions, copies of antiques, particularly a Fame, a Flora, a Victory, and a Diana. On one fide the room are two chimney-pieces, the cornices of which are baffo relievos of white marble, and fupported by figures of Phrygian captives, copies from others in the capitol ; but they are rather too bulky for this ufe. The other fide of the room contains a double range of windows, which are contrived in a very peculiar manner ; for not- withftanding the fize of the room, the lower ones are of common dimenfions and heighth, which is a circum- ftance extremely agreeable : the upper range is quite concealed behind the cornice, infomuch that you muft be clofe to the oppofite fide of the room to difcover the immediate track of their light : by means of this con- trivance, the room is equally lighted from the floor to the ceiling, and the pictures are viewed without the leaft glare. In the piers between the windows of the lower range are very elegant glaffes, and feveral flabs of agate, and the fineft and rareft marbles. The fofas and chairs are of crimfon damafk, (window-curtains of the fame) with gilt arms and legs. There are four glafs luftres. But the principal ornaments of this beautiful room are the paintings ; in refpect of which we cannot but great- ly admire the tafte of the noble owner, who, rather than furnifh it with fuch originals as are to be procured at prefent, ordered copies of fome capital ones of the greateft painters, by the firft artifts of this age. The faccefs his grace met with in the execution, was equal to the propriety of the idea; for here are five paintings which may really be called admirable. It by no means becomes me to talk of a diftindtion between copies and originals. In the centre is the School of Athens, after Raphael, by Raphael Mengs, which, in defiance of this immortal name, we fhall venture to pronounce a learned, but by no means a pleafing picture. The grouping;, jjj relpect of picturefque compofition, is excellent, but the piece is very rightly called a School, for it confifts cf many groups- with fcarceany unity. The figures are in moft refpedts fine, but are little better, from the diftindt- nefs of their employments from each other, than fo many portraits : the draperies are in general in a heavy, in- elegant ftile j but the airs of the heads, and the variety of the compofition, are excellent. On one fide of this is the council, and on the other the feaft of the Gods, both by Raphael, and copied by Pompeio Battoni. In the firft, the bold ftrength of what may be called mufcular cxpre/fion, is admirable j for the artift feems in is piece to have confulted little befides difplaying his anatomical learning; the drawing, it is true, is fine; but the drawing of a fatyr may be as fine as that of a Venus ! There is throughout this picture a great want of grace; every limb is thick, un- wieldy, and heavy. The feaft of the Gods is infinitely finer; for here are a great number of figures admirably grouped, and fome of them extremely graceful : with a general variety in the compofition, which muft be ftriking to every one. The woman in the centre, vvhofe back parts are alone feen, is admirably drawn, and the turn and inflection of the limbs exprefied in the hap^ieft manner; alfo the three fecondary female figures in the corner of the right fide, are graceful, and very pleafing ; the airs of the heads, in general, and the ftile of the whole compofi- tion, is fine ; but in neither this, nor the preceding, are many marks of that brilliancy, and pleafing diffuuon cf lights and fhades which refult from the refined practice of the chiaro ofcuro. At the upper end of the room is the Triumph of Bacchus, after Annibal Carrach, by Coftanfi ; a pic- ture which, however correct the drawing may be, is by no means pleafing : the fubject could be chofe by none but an artift who wanted to difplay the diftortions of the human body. Thus we fee in the corner, on the risht fide, a woman a very Bright in flefh, with drapery fo well drawn, as to difplay the fhape of the limbs cor- rectly through it; who can view them, and not wifh for thofe of a beauty, infttad of an oyfter-wench ? Another, fomewhat better made, holds up her hands and arms in all the fury of intoxication. Surely this painter muft have a ftrange tafte, thus to reprefent the human form ! But a greater fault is the unmeaning, filly infipidity of Bacchus, who furely ought to have had marks of a peculiar and animated fpirit upon fuch an occafion ; inftead of v/hich, he fits in his car with as much calmnefs, as quiet, fober, and mild a counte- nance, as if he had been in a council of the Gods, in- ftead of a drunken frolic. Thefe circumftances more than balance the excellencies of drawing, colouring, &c. which are found in this piece. But the Aurora, after Guido, by Mafuccio, makes ample amends for all the reft. Sure never was grace, in all the divinity of its moft pleafing attitudes, more elegantly caught than in this happy, this fweet idea, which is executed with as much fpirit as it was con- ceived with elegance. The whole range of painting cannot exhibit a more pleafing group ; each figure is fhewn to the beft advantage; and each moft peculiarly elegant: but the principal of the graces is Grace it- felf ; the arms are extended in fo beautiful a manner, the whole body is turned with fuch amazing elegance, that a fuperior is fcarceiy to be imagined. The colour- ing, the general diffufion of the clear obfeure, the wonderful elegance of the whole, is unparalleled : but Apollo (the principal figure) is by no means equal to any of the graces ; his attitude is not unpleafing ; but it is tame, inexpreffive, and infinitely inferior in grace to the figure above-mentioned. .Near Charing-crofs, on the north fide, is a place called the Mews, now containing ftables for the king's horfes. Mews is a name given to places where hawks are kept, and is derived from Mew, a term ufed among falconers, fignifying to moult, or caft feathers ; and this place was ufed for the accommodation of the king'a falconers and hawks, fo early as the year j 377; but the M I r> d king's ftables at Loinefbury, now called Bloomfbury, being deftroyed by fire in the year 15 37, king Henry VIII. caufed the hawks to be removed, and the Mews to be enlarged, and fitted up for his horfes, and it has con- tinued to be the king's ftables everfin.ee. The building eonfifts of a quadrangle; which being greatly decayed, the north fide was rebuilt in a magnificent manner by king George II. in the year 1732. Near the Mews arc a public fchool and library, be- longing to St. Martin's parilb. This fchool was en- dowed, and the library well furnifhed with books, in the reign of king James II. by Dr. Tennifon, then minifter in this panfh, and afterwards archbifhop of Canterbury. in the parifh of St. Martin is an old building, called St. James's Houfe, to which the court removed upon the burninc; of Whitehall in 1697 ; and it has continued to be the refidenceof our kings ever fince. An hofpital, founded by the citizens of London before the conqueft, for fourteen leprous maids, formerly flood on this fpot ; and from this hofpital the palace, which was built by king Henry VIII. foon after the general difiolution, de- rived its name. It is an irregular building, of a mean appearance from without, but itcontains many beautiful and magnificent apartments. The chapel of the hofpi- tal was converted to the ufe of the royal family, as it remains to this day, and is a royal peculiar exempted from all epifcopal jurifdiction. The fervice of the chapel is like that in cathedrals ; and for that end there belongs to it a dean, a lord almoner, a fub-dean, forty- eight chaplains, who preach in their turns before the royal family, twelve gentlemen of the chapel, two or- ganifts, ten children, a ferjeant, a yeoman, a groom of the veftry, and a bell-ringer. When this palace was built, it abutted in the fouth- weft upon an uncultivated fwampy tract of ground, which the king inclofed, and converted into a park, called from the palace St. James's Park : he alfo laid it out into walks, and collected the water into one body. It was afterwards much enlarged and improved by Charles II. who planted it wiih-lime- trees, and formed a beautiful vifta, near half a mile in length, called the Mall, from its being adapted to a play at bowls fo called. He alfo formed the v/ater into a canal of one hundred feet broad, and two thoufand eight hundred feet long ; and furnilhed the park with a decoy, and other ponds for water-fowl. This park, which is near a mile and an half in circumference, and furrounded with magnifi- cent ft.ruc~f.ures, is conftantly open, and ufed as a tho- roughfare by all forts of people. At the eaft end is a fpacious parade for the exercife of the horfe and foot guards. In a line with St. James's Palace, on the eaft fide, is Marlborough-houfe, which belongs to the duke of Marlborough, and is a very large brick edifice, orna- mented with ftone, and built in a peculiar tafte. It has two wings, and a very fpacious court before it. The front, which is very extenfive, has only two feries of windows. The building is terminated by a baluftrade on the top ; and the apartments are magnificent, well difpoled, and richly furnifhed. On the weft fide of St. James's Park, fronting the Mall and grand caqal, ftands the Queen's Palace. It was originally known by the name of Arlington-houfe ; but being purchafed by the late duke of Buckingham's father, who rebuilt it, in 1 703, from the ground, with brick and ftone, it was called Buckingham-houfe till the year 1762, when his prefent majetty bought it; and it began to be called the Queen's Palace, from the parti- cular pleafure the queen exprefTed in the retirement of this houfe. It is in every refpect a fine building, and not only commands a profpect of St. James's Park in front, but has a park, lately much enlarged, and a ca- nal, belonging to itfelf behind it, together with a good garden, and a fine terrace, from whence, as well as from the apartments, there is a profpect of the adjacent country. It has a fpacious court-yard, inclofed with iron rails, fronting St. James's Park, with offices on each fide, feparated from the manfion-houfe by two win^s of bending piazzas, and arched galleries, elevated 18 L E S E X. 189 on pillars of the Tufcan, Doric, and Ionic orders. Each front of this houfe has two ranges of pilafters, of the Corinthian and Tufcan orders. A new library has been lately added to this palace, filled with the beft authors in various languages. Here is alfo a fine collection of prints ; and the whole ftruc- ture is adorned with a great variety of pictures by the moft eminent mafters. Among them are the famous cartoons by Raphael, removed from Hampton Court. Thefe cartoons are feven pieces of facred hiftory taken from the New Teftamcnt, and were defigned as patterns for tapeftry. They are painted on paper, with great delicacy and beauty, in water-colours. The ftory of the firft is the miraculous draught of fifties, Luke v. In this. Chrift appears in the bout with an air of divine gentlenefs ; the large fowl placed on the ftiore in the fore-ground, have a fea wildnefs in them, and prevent the heavinefs which that part of the picture would otherwife have had, by breaking the parallel lines that would have been made by the boat, and the bafe of the pi&ure. Raphael has, indeed, made a boat too little to hold the figures he has placed in it : but had he made it large enough for thofe figures, the picture would have been all boat ; and to have made his figures fmall enough for a veflel of that fize, would have rendered them un- fuitable to the reft of the fet, and lefs confiderable. The fecond is the Delivery of the Keys, John xxi. and has received an injury. As this is the appearance of our Saviour after the refurrection, prefent authority, late fuffering, humility and majefty, command and love, are finely mixed in his divine afpect. He is wrapped only in one large piece of white drapery ; his left arm and breaft are bare, and part of his legs naked. The figures of the eleven apoftles all exprefs the fame paflion of admiration, but difcover it differently according to their characters. Peter receives his mailer's orders on his knees, with an admiration mixed with a more par- ticular attention ; the beloved difciple has, in his coun- tenance, wonder loft in love : the laft perfonage, whofe back only is feen, one would fancy to be Thomas, whofe perplexed concern could not be better drawn than by this acknowledgment of the difficulty to defcribe it. The mixture of tints in the draperies all together pro- duce a wonderful harmony The third is the Miracle of healing the Cripple at the beautiful gate of the Temple. A6ts iii. All the figures are admirably performed. The fourth is the death of Ananias, Arts v. Here is the greateft dignity in the apoftles ; they are, however, only a fubordinate group, becaufe the principal action relates to the criminal ; thither the eye is directed by al- moft all the figures ; what a horror and revererence is vifible in the whole affembly on this mercenary man's falling down dead ! The fifth is Elymas the forcerer, ftruck with blind- nefs, Acts xii. His whole body exprefTes his being blind. How admirably are terror and aftonifhment ex- prefled in the people prefent, and how varioufly ac- cording to their feveral characters ! What grace and majefty is feen in the great Apoftle of the Gentiles, de- nouncing vengeance on the forcerers ! The proconful has a greatnefs and a grace fuperior to his character, equal to what one might fuppofe in a Caefar- The fixth is the facrifice to Paul and Barnabas by the people of Lycaonia. Acts xiv. The occafion of this is finely told ; the man healed of his lamenefs, to exprefs his fenfe of the divine power which appeared in the apoftles, and to fhew it to be him, not only has a crutch under his feet on the ground, but an old man takes up the lappet of his garment, and looks upon the limb he remembers to have been crippled, exprefling great devo- tion and amazement ; which are fentiments feen in the other, with a mixture of joy. The group of the ox and popa are taken from a bas relievo in the Villa de Medici. The feventh is St. Paul preaching to the Athenians, Acts xvii. The divine orator is the chief figure ; but with what wonderful art are almoft all the different tem- pers of mankind reprefented in the audience ! This pic- ture is conducted with the greateft judgment. The at- Ccc titude Middlesex. titude of St. Paul is as fine aa pollible, pointing to the ftatue of Mercury, alluding to their idolatry ; for the men of Lyftra would call him by that name. The little drapery thrown over the apoftle's moulder, and hanging down to his Waift, poifes the figure, which otherwife would feem ready te tumble forwards. There were in' all twelve of thefe pieces: two are in the pofleflion of the French king : the king of Sardinia has two of the others ; and one belonged to a gentleman in England, who pledged it for a fum of money. When the perfon who had taken this valuable depoiit found it was to be redeemed, he greatly damaged the drawing, for which the gentleman brought his action in Weft- minfter-hall. Perhaps, there are few houfes in Europe of its fize, better worth the view of the curious in architecture, and the fitting up and furnifhing great houfes, than lord Spencer's, in St. James's Place. Nothing can be more pleafingly elegant than the park front, which is orna- mented to an high degree, and yet not with profufion ; we know not in England a more beautiful piece of ar- chitecture. Nor is the fitting up and furniture of the rooms inferior to the beauties of the outfide. We were firft fhewn into lord Spencer's library, which is thirty feet by twenty-five ; the ornaments exceedingly hand- fome. The chimney-piece very light, of polifhed white marble. On one fide of the room hangs a capital pic- ture of the nature of witchcraft ; the expreflion and finifhing is very great ; and the extent of the painter's imagination ftriking, in drawing into one point fuch a multitude of the emblems of witchcraft, and all de- figned with a fine wildnefs of fancy. It is fomewhat in the ftile of Scarlatti. From hence you enter the dining-room, forty-fix by twenty-four ; exceedingly elegant : the decorations in the fineft tafte, and the richeft of their kind ; the ceil- ing and cornice of white and green, very beautiful. The flabs of Siena marble, large and finely veined. The chimney-piece, bafib relievo, of white marble beauti- fully polifhed. On one fide of it is a landfcape, the killing of a dragon, the general brilliancy of which is very fine, andjhe trees beautifully exprefled. On the other fide is another yet more pleafing, the trees of which are likewife ftriking. The figures are a centaur €arrying ofF a naked woman : her back appears, which is painted with a moft delicate foftnefs : fhe has a little flight drapery, which is very elegantly defigned, though perhaps not perfectly natural. Next we entered the drawing-room, which is twenty- four by twenty-one, clear of a noble bow-window, parted from the room only by two pillars of moft exqui- fite workmanfhip ; they are carved in leaves, the thick foliage of which bends round in a fine arch from one to the other, in a tafte that cannot be too much admired. On each fide, in a femicircular cove in the wall, an urn of white marble with baflb relievos, very beautiful. Nothing can be more elegant than the chimney-piece ; a fine border of Siena marble with a fweet feftoon of flowers upon it in white marble polifhed ; the ceiling, cornice, and ornaments of green and white and gold, and in a moft delicate ftile. Over the chimney, a pic- ture of twoufurers; great expreflion. Returning, we next viewed the Attic ftory \ the ftair- eafe is" in a very juft tafte, wide and lofty ; the ceiling and ornaments green and white. From the landing-place you enter firft the mufic-room twenty-five by twenty-three, the chimney-piece ex- tremely light and elegant : on the left a fmall drefling- room, very neat; chimney-piece very beautiful, the cornice of white polifhed marble, fupported by pillars of Siena. This opens into the bed-chamber, twenty- five by twenty. The beds and tables very finely carved and inlaid, the former of crimfon damaflc, with covered tops, and extremely elegant. Returning to the mufic- room, you enter the grand drefling-room, twenty-five by twenty-three, which is fitted up with all poflible tafte ; fcarce any thing can be more beautiful than the mofaie'd ceiling, the cornices, and all the ornaments. The chimney-piece is exquifitely defigned, and admi- rably executed : it is of white marble 4 wrought with the utmoft tafte, and beautifully polifhed. Over the cornice are feftoons of the lighteft carving, and two eagles^ with a very fine bafib relievo of carving in a glafs in the centre. The pictures are difpofed with great elegance, and hung up by ribbons of gilt carving in the fweeteii tafte. Among them are the following pieces : Two old men's heads in the ftile of Rembrandt ; fine. Ten pieces, companions, exceedingly beautiful ; the colouring, attitudes, and drapery, very ftriking. Among them Andiomade, rape of Europa, Venus, Neptune. A battle by Borgognon, very fine. Madona, dark, but good. Nativity, fine, A Chrift, ditto. Holy family, pleafing, but the drapery not excellent. Landfcape, I imagine by Claud Loraine, fine. Out of this room you enter the faloon, forty-five by thirty, than which we never beheld one fitted up and furnifhed in a more exquifite tafte. The ceiling, which is coved, is in mofaie'd compartments, green and white and gold ; gilt medallions are let into it. The door- cafes exceedingly elegant, their cornices fupported by pillars moft beautifully carved, and gilt with the fame mixture of green as in the ceiling. The chimney-piece large, but very light ; relievos of white polifhed marble, wonderfully elegant. Between the windows are two flabs very large, of the fineft Siena marble, the frames carved in the moft exquifite tafte, and richly gilded ; they are beyond all comparifon more beautiful and rich than any we have feen. The pier-glafles of a vaft fize, fingle plates, and the frames of admirable workmanfhip. The carving and gilding of the fofa frames in a ftile and tafte till now unknown. In the centre of the room hangs an exceeding fine glafs luftre. On each fide the chimney is an hiftorical landfcape, one Alexander and Diogenes ; the expreflion good, but the colouring of both fomething of the Mannerift. The next room is called the painted one, twenty-four by twenty-two. On one fide is a bow-window, orna- mented with the moft exquifitely carved and gilt pillars you can conceive. The walls and ceiling are painted in compartments by Mr. Steuart, in (the moft beaut ful tafte ; even the very fcrolls and feftoons of the flighted fort, which are run between the fquare and circular compartments, are executed with the minuteft elegance. The ground of the whole is green ; and the general ef- fect more pleafing than is eafily conceived. Nothing can be lighter or more beautiful than the chimney-piece : the frieze contains a moft exquifite painting reprefenting a clandeftine marriage, which, without variety or glare of colours, has all the harmony of their utmoft power. Nothing can be finer than the drapery, which is defigned with the jufteft tafte, difplaying the form of every limb through it in a moft beautiful manner. The foft ex- preflion of the naked, and the beauty of the heads, arc very great. We fhould obferve, that two of the fmall compartments of the wall are landfcapes let into it with, no other than the painted frame of the divifions : one reprefents a water-fall, and the other a bridge over a ftream, both fine. The frames of the tables, fofas, ftands, &c. &c. are all carved and gilt in the fame tafte as the other ornaments of the room, all with a profufion of richnefs, but with the utmoft el?gance. The pea- cock's feathers over one of the glafles, the turtles on a wreath of flowers, and the magpies on bunches of grapes, are very beautiful, and the deception of the firft extraordinary. The bold relief of fuch flight ftrokes does honour to the pencil of the artift. The looking- glafs window is a piece of tafte, and has an happy effect. North-weft of the Queen's Palace, at the fouth-eaft corner of Hyde-park, in a fine fituation, and a clear and pure air, is a neat plain building, which formerly belonged to lord Lanefborough, but wss, in the year 1733., taken and fitted uy by a charitable focietv, for the reception of the fick and lame, by the name of Sr. George's Hofpital. It was firft opened, for the admiffion of patients, on the firft day of January J 734, and has ever fince been fupported by voluntary fubferiptions and I donations, and fo well attended and managed, that now it M I D t) it is one of the moft flourishing hofpitals in the king- dom. The governors of this charity are about three hundred. Near St. George's Hofpital is a Lock Hofpital, erecVd for the reception of perfons afflicted with venereal dif- orders, and fupportcd by voluntary fubfcriptions and donations. Befides many noble private buildings in the parifh of St. Martin, that have not been mentioned here, this pa- rifh contains the following additional public ones ; two charity-lchools, two alms-houfes, a parifh work-houfe, a round-houfe, and a play-houfe. St. James's Church was built in the reign of Charles II. at the expence of Henry earl of St. Albans, and other r.eighbouring inhabitants ; and was made parochial by act of parliament in 1685. The building is of brick and ftone, about eighty-five feet long, fixty broad, and forty-five feet high, with a handfome fteeple, one hun- dred and fifty feet in height. St. James's Square is in the parifh of St. James's, and is an area of at leaft four acres, built round chiefly with noblemen's houfes, in the modern tafte. In the middle of the fquare is a fine bafon, furrounded with a gravel walk, and inclofed with an iron palifade. In a ftreet called Piccadilly, in the parifh of St. James's, is Burlington-houfe, fo called from its being the refi- dence of the earls of Burlington. It is fenced from the the ftreet by a brick wall, about two hundred and twenty feet in length, in which are three coach-gates. The front of the houfe is of ftone, and is remarkable for the beauty of the defign and workmanfhip. It has two wings, joined by a circular collonade of the Doric or- der. The front was built by the late earl of Burlington. The apartments are in a fine t.ifte, and the ftair-cafe painted with great fpirit, by Seb. Ricci. Behind the houfe is a fpacious garden. In Piccadilly are feveral other magnificent houfes, as Sunderland-houfe, Devonfhire-houfe, and two new houfes, one erected by the earl of Bath, and the other by the earl of Egremont. In this parifh there are two chapels of eafe, three charity-fchools, two fquares, two markets, part of a third, and a work-houfe for the pa- rifh poor. The church of St. George the Martyr is a beautiful ftructure, near a fquare called Hanover-fquare. This was one of the fifty new churches erected within the bills of mortality, by act of parliament, in the reign of queen Anne. The ground for the church was given by the late lieutenant-general Stewart, who alfo left four thoufand pounds to the parifh, towards erecting and en- dowing a charity- fchool, which, by the additional bene- factions and fubfcriptions of the parifhioners, is become very confiderable- In this parifh are four chapels of eafe, a work-houfe for the poor, and a market for meat and herbage. Here are two fpacious quadrangles of magnificent houfes, called Hanover and Grofvenor Squares. Ha- nover Square confifts of an area of about two acres : Grofvenor Square contains about five acres, and is laid out with gravel and green walks, and quickfet bufhes. It is inclofed with a baluftrade upon a dwarf wall, and adorned in the centre with a gilt equeftrian ftatue of king George I. on a pedeftal. In Duke-ftreet, Grofvenor's Square, in this parifh, is a lying-in-hofpital, for unmarried as well as married women. It is fupported by voluntary contributions ; and any woman recommended by a governor or fub- fcriber is received, and provided with afliftance, and all neceflaries, during the laft ftage of her pregnancy, and the month of lying-in. Near Oxford-road, in this parifh, is a plain but com- modious brick building, called the Middlefex Hofpital, for the reception of the fick and lame, and for lying-in married women. The firft inftitution of this charity Was in Auguft 1745, in two houfes adjoining to each other, in Windmill-ftreet, Tottenham-court-road, in this neighbourhood ; but the number of patients greatly increafing, this building was begun in 1755. The apartments for the reception of lying-in women are remote from thofe for the fick and lame. This hofpital L E S E X. uji is fupported by charitable contributions. The number of beds at prefent is fixty-four ; and the number of pa- tients admitted, from the firft inftitution to the begin- ning of Junei75i, ts fifteen thoufand and thirty-nine,, of whom one thoufand eight hundred and twenty-nine were lick and lame, eleven thoufand levari hundred and eighty-five were out-patients, and one thoufand four hundred and twenty-five lying-in women. St. Anne's parifh being taken out of St. Martin's parifh, by act of parliament in 1678, a church, dedi- cated to St. Anne, was finifhed in 1606, of brick and? ftone. The great ornaments of this parifh are two fquares, one called Soho Square, and the other Lei- cefter Square. Soho Square is an area, of three acres, furrounded with high palifades, inclchng a garden, in which is a ftatue of king Charles II. erected on a pe- deftal, placed in the middle of a (mall bafon. At his. feet lie the reprefentation of the four principal rivers in England^ the Thames, the Severn, the Tine, and the Humber. The north and weft fides of Leicefter Square are in this parifh. Leicefter Square is an area of be- tween two and three acres. On the north fide is Sa- ville-houfe, the winter refidence of his prefent majefty^ while prince of Wales ; and adjoining to that is Lei- cefter-houfe, the refidence of the pruicefs dowager of Wales. Tnis fquare is inclofed with iron rails, and in the centre is a gilt equeftrian ftatue of king George II. on a high pedeftal. The greateft part of the parifh of St. Paul Covent- garden was anciently a garden, belonging to the abbot and convent of Weftminfter, and was then properly called Convent-garden, a name fmce corrupted into Co- vent, and fometimes Common-garden. In 1552, king Edward VI. gave it to John ear> of Bedford, together with a field near it, formerly called the Seven-acres, but now being turned into a long ftreet, it is called Long-acre. In 1640, Francis earl of Bedford erected a chapel for the ufe of his tenants, in and about Covent-garden, which chapel is now the parifh-church ; and in 1645, this precinct was feparated, by act of parliament, from the parifh of St. Martin's, and conftituted an indepen- dent parifh. The church was built by Inigo Jones, and is efteemed, by the beft judges, one of the moft fimple and perfect pieces of architecture in the world* In the front is a plain portico of the Tufcan order : the columns are maflv, and the intercolumniation large. This portico is defended by an iron palifade, and iron gates, the gift of the duke of Bedford. But what is moft fingular in the building is, that it has no pillars to fupport the roof, nor any tower, or bells to ring in peal. On each fide of the front is a gate fuitable to the ftructure. There is a fquare before the church, called Covent- garden market, of which the church forms almoft all the weft fide. This fquare contains about three acres of ground, and is the beft market in England for herbs, fruit and flowers. It is furrounded by a wooden rail, and a column is erected in the middle of it, on the top of which are four fun-dials. There is a magnificent piazza on the north and eaft fides of this fquare, defigned by Inigo Jones, which, if carried round it, according to the plan of this celebrated architect, would render it, beyond difpute, one of the fineft fquares in Europe. There are two charky-fchools in this parifh, a theatre called Covent-garden Play-houfe, and a round-houfe. Next to the parifh of St. Paul Covent-garden is that of St. Mary le Strand, the church of which parifh was called St. Maryle Strand, from its having been built in a capital ftreet called the Strand, and dedicated to St. Mary. This is one of the fifty new churches that were erected within the bills of mortality by act of parliament, in the reign of queen Anne, and the firft of them that was finifhed. It is a good, though not a very extenfive piece of architecture. At the entrance on the weft fide, is an afcent by a flight of fteps, cut in the fweep of a circle: thefelead to a circular portico of Ionic columns, covered with a dome, which is crowned with a vafe : the columns are continued along the body of the church, with pilafters of the fame order at the corners ; and in the 192 M I D D theintercolumniaiions are niches handfomely ornamented. Over the dome is a pediment, fupported by Corinthian columns, which are alfo continued round the body of the ftru&urc, over thofe of the Ionic order : between thefe are the windows, placed over the niches : thefe columns are fupported on pedeftals, and have pilafters behind, with arches fprung from them ; and the win- dows have angular and circular pediments alternately. A handfomc baluftrade is carried round the top of the church, and its fummit is adorned wivh vafes. The fleeple is light, though folid, and ornamented with compofite columns and capitals. The molt remarkable building in this parifh is a royal palace, called Somerfet-houfe, built by the duke of So- merfet, uncle to king Edward VI. upon whole attainder it fell to the crown ; and Anne of Denmark, queen to king James I. kept her court here, whence it was called Denmark-houfe during that reign ; but it foon after re- covered the name of the founder. It was the refidence of queen Catharine, dowager of king Charles If. and was fettled on the late queen Caroline, in cafe {he had furvived his late majefty. It confifts of feveral courts, and has a garden behind fituated on the bank of the Thames. The front towards the Strand is adorned with columns and entablature of the Doric order. The firft court is a handfome quadrangle, built on all fides with free-ftone. On the fouth fide is a piazza, before the great hall or guard-room. Beyond this are other courts, which lie on a defcent towards the garden and the Thames ; and on the fide of the river, king Charles II. added a magnificent ftructure of free {lone, with a noble piazza built by Inigo Jones. This new building con- tains the royal apartments, which command a beautiful profpect of the river, and the country beyond it. The garden was adorned with ftatues, fhady walks, and a bowling-green : but as none of the royal family have refided here fince queen Catharine, feveral of the officers of the court, and its dependants, are permitted to lodge in it ; and great part of it has been lately ufed as bar- racks for fcldiers and recruits. The garden is totally ruined, and the apartments are become fuitable to their new guefts. The parifh next to St. Mary le Strand is St. Clement's Danes, fo called from its church, which is fuppofed to be dedicated to pope Clement the Firft, who fufrered martyrdom in the reign of the Roman emperor Trajan, and to be the church, or clfe the common coemetery of the Danes in London. A church has been fituated in this place ever fince the year 700 at leaft, but the pre- fent ftructure was begun in 1680. It was defigned fey Sir Chriftopher Wren, and is one of the beft of all that were built before the fifty new churches. It is built of {lone, has two feries of windows, the lower plain, and the upper well ornamented ; and the termination is by an Attic, the pilafters of which are crowned with vafes. On the fouth fide is a portico, covered with a dome, fupported by Ionic columns ; and oppofite to this is an- other. It has a beautiful fteeple, carried to a great height. In this parifh there are three inns of chancery, Cle- ment's Inn, New Inn, and Lyon's Inn. Clement's Inn is fo called from its fituation in the neighbourhood of St. Clement's church ; it belongs to the Inner Temple, and confifts of a hall and three courts, where the ftudents of the law have had lodgings ever fince the year 1 47 8. New Inn was fo called in contradiftinevtion to an old inn which belonged to this fociety, in Sea-coal Lane, near Fleet-ditch. It is fituated in Wych-ftreet, and joins to Clement's Inn. It is fpacious and airy, confid- ing only of one well-built court, with a handfome hall, and fmall garden. This inn belongs to the Middle Temple, and is governed by a treafurer and twelve ancients. Lyon's Inn is oppofite to New Inn, and is faid to have been in polleflion of the ftudents and practitioners of the law ever fince the year 1420. It belongs to the Inner Temple. In this parifh is an excellent market for butchers meat, poultry, and all forts of garden ftufF. It is called Clare- L E S E X. market, from the family of Clare, dukes of Newcaftle, who were the original proprietors of it. Exeter Exchange is one of the mod remarkable build- ings in this parifh. It had its name from its fituation in the place where formerly the manfion-houfe of the earls of Exeter ftood. It is a large building, erected for the benefit of trade, and confifting of a lower and upper floor. The lower floor is laid out into little {hops, ranged on each fide a long room ; and the upper one is now ufed for auctions, and other fuch purpol'eb. Near Exeter Exchange is an ancient building, called the Savoy, from Peter earl of Savoy and Richmond, who firft eredled a houfe here in 124c;. This houfe af- terwards came into the pofleflion of the friars of Mont- joy, of whom queen E leaner, wife of king Henry III. purchafed it for her fon, Henry duke of Lancafter. The duke afterwards enlarged and beautified it at an immenfe expence ; and in the reign of Edward III. this was reckoned one of the fineft palaces in England ; but in 1381, it was burnt to the ground, with all its fump- tuous furniture, by the Kentifh rebels, under Wat Ty- ler. Henry VII. began to rebuild it in its prefent form, for an hofpital for the reception of an hundred diftrefied objects j but the hofpital was fupnreiled by Edward VI. who granted its furniture, together with feven hundred pounds a year of its revenues, to the hofpitals of Chrill's church, St. Thomas, and Bridewell. The Savoy has ever fince belonged to the crown, and confifts of a large edifice, built with free-ftone and flint, in which detachments of the king's guards lie, where they have a prifon for the confinement of deferters and other offend- ers, and lodgings for recruits. A part of the Savoy was allotted by king William III. to the French re- fugees, who have ftill a chapel here, which was the an- cient chapel or church of the hofpital. Befides the cities and liberties of London and Weft- minfter, which have been now defcribed, there is a fub- urb to the north of vaft extent, running the whole length of both. This muft next be traced, beginning at the weft, and proceeding eaftward to the end. The next parifh to the liberties of Weftminfter, on theeaft, is that of St. Giles in the Fields. The church of this parifh was built in 1734, and is one of the molt fimple and elegant modern ftructures in London. It is built of Portland ftone, with a., fteeple one hundred and fixty-five feet high. In this parifh is one of the largeft and moft beautiful fquares in London, if not in Europe, called Lincoln's Inn Fields. It was originallv laid out by the celebrated Inigo Jones: the area contains about ten acres, in the middle of which is a bafon of water, furrounded with grafs and gravel walks, encompafl'ed with an iron pali- fade, fixed upon a ftone plinth. This fquare is bounded on the north, weft, and fouth, with fpacious and ele- gant buildings, and to the eaft with the wall of Lin- coln's Inn-gardens. Between thefe bounds and the pal - lifadesis a fpacious avenue for carriages, and a path for foot pailengers, paved with broad flat {tones, and fecured by ports at proper diftances. In Brownlow-ftreet, Long Acre, in this parifh, is a lying-in hofpital, fupported by charitable contributions, for the relief of pregnant poor women, where fuch mar- ried women as are objects of charity, are amply provided with commodious apartments and beds, good nurfing, plain fuitable diet, proper medicines, and the advice and afliftancc of gentlemen of {kill and experience in mid- wifery, as well as the attendance of midwives, in the laft ftage of their pregnancy, and during the month of lying-in. There are in this parifh two charity-fchools, an alms-houfe, a work-houfe for the poor, and other cha- ritable foundations. The church of St. George, Bloomfbury, is one of the fifty new churches erected by act of parliament, and is diftinguifhed from all the reft by {landing fouth and north, and by the ftatue of king George I. at the top of its fpire. In this parifh is the Britifh Mufeum, formerly called Montague Houfe, from having been the refidence of the dukes of Montague. It was built in 1677 ; and in 1753, the MIDDLESEX. i93 the parliament having patTed an act for purchafing the mu- feum of the late SirHans Sloane, and thecolledtion of ma- nufcripts of the late lord Oxford, called the Harleian Library, for the ufe of the public, twenty-fix truftees were appointed and incorporated, in order to provide a repofitory for thefe and fome other collections, which repofitory was to be called the Britifh Mufeum. Thefe truftees elected fifteen other truftees, and having bought Montague houfe, repaired and fitted it up for the recep- tion of thefe collections. They alfo appointed proper officers to fuperintend the mufeum ; and having ord.uned certain ftatutes with refpect to the ufe of the collection contained in it, the public were admitted to view it in 1757- The Britifli Mufeum is a large and magnificent building, and has a garden of near eight acres behind it. The collection of Sir Hans Sloane confifts of a very great number of natural and artificial curiofities, valuable re- mains of antiquity, and a large library, which, together, eoft the proprietor fifty thoufand pounds. It was pur- chafed by parliament for twenty thoufand pounds; ten thoufand pounds were paid for lord Oxford's manu- fcripts, ten thoufand pounds more were laid out for the purchafe of Montague houfe, fifteen thoufand pounds were fpent in repairs, alterations, and conveniencies ; and thirty thoufand pounds were veiled in the public funds, for fupplying falaries for officers, and other ne- cefiury expences. As this noble collection of curiofities, and thefe ex- cellent libraries, are now chiefly defigned for the ufe of learned and ftudious men, both natives and foreigners, in their refearches into the feveral parts of knowledge, the truftees have thought fit to ordain the following ftatutes, with refpect to the ufe of the Mufeum. I. That the Mufeum be kept open every day in the week, except Saturday and Sunday in each week; and likewife except Chriftmas-day, and one week after ; one week after Eafter-day and Whitfunday refpectively ; Good Friday, and all days which fhall hereafter be ap- pointed for thankfgivings and fafts by public authority. II. That at all other times the Mufeum be fet open in the manner following : that is, from nine o'clock in the morning till three in the afternoon, from Monday to Friday, between the months of September and April inclufive ; and alfo at the fame hours on Tuefday, Wed- nefday, and Thurfday, in May, June, July, and Au- guft; but on Monday and Friday, only from four o'clock to eight in the afternoon, during thofe four months. III. That fuch ftudious and curious perfons, who are defirous to fee the Mufeum, be admitted by printed tickets, to be delivered by the porter upon their appli- cation in writing; which writing fhall contain their names, condition, and places of abode ; as alfo the day and hour at which they defire to be admitted : and that the faid names be inferted in the tickets, and, together with their refpective additions, entered in a regifter to be kept by the porter. And the porter is to lay fuch regifter every night before the principal librarian; or, in his abfence, before the under librarian, who fhall officiate as fecretary for the time being ; or, in his ab- fence, before one of the under librarians ; to the end that the principal or under librarian may be informed, whether the perfons fo applying be proper to be admitted according to the regulations made, or to be made by the truftees for that purpofe. And if he fhall judge them proper, he fhall direct the porter to deliver tickets to them, according to their requeft, on their applying a fecond time for the faid tickets. IV. That no more than ten tickets be delivered out for each hour of admittance ; which tickets, when brought by the refpective perfons therein named, are to be fhewn to the porter, who is thereupon to direct them to a proper room appointed for their reception, till their hour of feeing the Mufeum be come, at which time they are to deliver their tickets to the proper officer of the firft department : and that five of the perfons pro- ducing fuch tickets be attended by the under librarian, and the other five by the affiftant in each department. V. That the faid number of tickets be delivered for the admiffion of company at the hours of nine, ten, 18 eleven, and twelve refpectively in the morning ; and for the hours of four and five in the afternoon or thofe days in which the Mufeum is to be open at that time : and that if application be made for a greater number of tickets, the perfons laft applying be defired to name fome other day and hour, which will be moft convenient to them. VI. That if the number of perfons producing tickets for any particular hour does not exceed five, they be defired to join in one company ; which may be attended either by the under librarian, or affiitant, as fhall be agreed on between them. VII. That if any perfons, having obtained tickets, be prevented from making ufe of them, they be defired to fend them back to the porter in time, that other perfons wanting to fee the Mufeum may not be excluded. VIII. That the fpectators may view the whole Mu- feum in a regular order, they are firft to be conduced through the apartment of manufcripts and medals ; then the department of natural and artificial productions ; and afterwards the department of printed books, by the particular officers afligned to each department IX. That one hour only be allowed to the feveral companies, for gratifying their curiofity in viewing each apartment, and that each company keep together in that room in which the officer who attends them fhali then be. X. That in palling through the rooms, if any of the fpectators defire to fee any book, or other part of the collection, not herein after excepted, it be handed to them by the officer, who is to reftore it to its place be- fore they leave the room ; that no more than one fuch book, or other part of the collection, be delivered at a time ; and that the officer be ready to give the company any information they fhall defire, relating to that part of the collection under his care. XI. That upen the expiration of each hour, notice be given of it ; at which time the feveral companies fhall remove out of the apartment in which they then are, to make room for frefh companies. XII. That if any of the perfons who have tickets, come after the hour marked in the faid tickets, but be- fore the three hours allotted them are expired, they be permitted to join the company appointed for the fame hour, in order to fee the remaining part of the collection, if they defire it. XIII. That a catalogue of the refpective printed books, manufcripts, and other parts of the collection, diftinguifhed by numbers, be depofited in fome one room of each department, to which the fame fhall refpectively belong, as foon as the fame can be prepared. XIV. That written numbers, anfwering to thofe in the catalogues, be affixed both to the books and other parts of the collection, as far as can conveniently be done. XV. That the coins and medals, except fuch as the ftanding committee fhall order, from time to time, to be placed in glafs cafes, be not expofed to view, but by leave of the truftees, in a general meeting ; or the ftand- ing committee, or of the principal librarian : that they be fhewn between the hours of one and three in the af- ternoon by one of the officers, who have the cuftody of them : that no more than two perfons be admitted into the room to fee them at the fame time, unlefs by parti- cular leave of the principal librarian, who in fuch cafe is required to attend, together with the faid officer, the whole time : and that but one thing be taken or conti- nue out of the cabinets and drawers at a time, which is to be done by the officer, who fhall replace it before any 'perfon prefent goes out of the room. XVI. That the Mufeum be conftantly fhut up at all other times, but thofe above-mentioned. XVII. That if any perfons are defirous of vifiting the Mufeum more than once, they may apply for tickets in the manner above-mentioned, at any other times, and as often as they pleafe; provided that no one perfon has tickets at the fame time for more days than one. XVIII. That no children be admitted into theMufeum. XIX. That no officer or fervant fhall take any fee or reward of any perfon whatfoever, for his attendance in D d d the 194 MIDDLESEX. the difchargc of his duty, except in the cafes hereafter mentioned, under the penalty of immediate difmiffion. The manner of admitting perfons who defire to make life of the Mufeum for ftudy, or have occafion tocon- fult it for information. I. That no one be admitted to fuch ufe of the Mufeum for ftudy, but by leave of the truftees, in a general meeting, or the ftanding committee; which leave is not to be granted for a longer term than half a year, without a frefh application. II. That abook.be kept in the reading-room, under the cuftody of the officer of the faid room, who is to enter therein the names of t,he feveral perfons who have leave of admiffion, together with the refpective dates of the orders of the truftees for that purpofe, and the du- ration of the fame. III. That a particular room be allotted for the perfons fo admitted, in which they may fit, and read or write, without interruption, during the time the Mufeum is kept open : that a proper officer do conftantly attend in the faid room, fo long as any fuch perfon or perfons fhall be there : and for the greater eafe and convenience of the faid perfons, as well as fecurity of the collection, it is expected, that notice be given in writing the day before, by each perfon, to the faid officer, what book or manufcript he will be defirous of perufing the following day ; which book or manufcript, on fuch requeft, will be lodged in fome convenient place in the faid room, and will from thence be delivered to him by the officer of the faid room ; excepting however fome books or manu- fcripts of great value, or very liable to be damaged, and on that account judged by the truftees not fit to be removed out of the library to which they belong, with- out particular leave obtained of the truftees in a general meeting, or a ftanding committee for that purpofe ; a catalogue whereof will be kept by the officer of the reading-room. IV. That fuch perfons be allowed to take one or more extracts from any printed book or manufcript ; and that either of the officers of the department to which fuch printed book or manufcript belongs - , be at liberty to do it for them, upon fuch terms as fhall be agFeed on between them. V. That the tranferiber do not lay. the paper on which he writes upon any part of the book or manufcript he is ufing. VI. That no whole manufcript, nor the greater part of any, be tranferibed, without leave from the truftees, in a general meeting or ftanding committee. VII. That every perfon fo intrufted with the ufe of any book or manufcript, return the fame to the officer attending, before he leaves the room. VIII. That if any perfon engaged in a work of learn- ing, have occafion to make a drawing of anything con- tained in the department of natural and artificial pro- ductions, or to examine it more carefully than can be done in the common way of viewing the Mufeum, he is to apply to the truftees in a general meeting, or the ftanding committee, for particular leave for that pur- pofe ; it not being thought proper, unlefs in particular cafes, to have them removed from their places, and out of the fight of the officer who has the care of them. IX. That whenfoever, and as often as any perfon fhall have occafion to confult or infpect any book, char- ter, deed, or other manufcript for evidence or informa- tion, other than for ftudying, which is herein before provided for; he is to apply for leave fo to do, to the truftees in a general meeting, or the ftanding com- mittee. But if the cafe fhould require fuch difpatch as that time cannot be allowed for making fuch application, the perfon is to apply for fuch leave to the principal librarian ; or, in cafe of his death or abfence, fuch of the under librarians as fhall officiate as fecretary for the time being : which leave the principal librarian, or the under librarian officiating as fecretary for the time being, as aforefaid, is hereby impowered to grant. Provided always, that no fuch perfon fhall be permitted to con- fult or infpecl any fuch book, charter, deed, or other manufcript, except in the prefence of the principal li- brarian, or of one of the principal officers of that de- partment to which fuch book, deed, charter, or other manufcript, fhall belong. X. That no part of the collection or collections be- longing to this Mufeum, be at any time carried out of the general repofitory, except fuch books, charters, deeds, or other manufcripts as may be wanted to be made ufe of in evidence. And that when any fuch book, charter, deed, or other manufcript, fhall be wanted to be made ufe of in evidence, application fhall be made in writing for that purpofe, to the truftees in a general meeting, or the ftanding committee : and if the cafe fhould require fuch difpatch, as not to admit of an application to the truftees in a general meeting, or the ftanding committee, then to the principal librarian ; or in cafe of his death or abfence, then to fuch of the under librarians as fhall officiate as fecretary for the time be- ing : and thereupon, by their or his direction, the fame fhall, and may be carried out of the general repofi- tory, to be made ufe of as evidence as aforefaid, by the under librarian or affiftant of the department to which fuch book, charter, deed, or other manufcript, fhall belong. And in cafe the faid under librarian or affiftant of the faid department be difabled, or cannot attend, then by fuch other of the under librarians or affiftants as fhall be appointed by the truftees, in a general meeting, or the ftanding committee, or by the chief librarian, or by fuch of the under librarians as fhall officiate as fecre- tary for the time being aforefaid. And the perfon who fhall be appointed to carry out the fame, fhall attend the whole time, and bring it back with him again; for which extraordinary trouble and attendance it is expected that a proper fatisfaction be made to him. Although it may be prefumed, that perfons who fhall be admitted to fee the Mufeum, will in general conform themfelves to the rules and orders above-mentioned ; yet as it may happen, that thefe rules may not always be duly obferved, the truftees think it neceffary, for the fafety and prefervation of t ie Mufeum, and do hereby order, that in cafe any perfons fhall behave in any im- proper manner, and contrary to the faid rules, and fhall continue fuch mifbehaviour after having been admo- nifhed by one of the officers ; fuch perfons fhall be ob- liged forthwith to. withdraw from the Mufeum, and their names fhall be entered in a book to be kept by the porter, who is hereby ordered not to deliver tickets to them for their admiffion for the future, without a fpecial direction from the truftees in a general meeting. In this parifh is a fquare of about three acres, called Bloomfbury Square, with many fine houfes : the north fide is entirely taken up with fjedford-houfc, which was defigned by Inigo Jones, and is an elegant ftructure. The area of this fquare is furrounded with iron rails. Near the fquare is a good market, called Bloomfburv market. . St. George's church, Queen Square, another of the fifty new churches, is a plain building, erected in 1723, and was formerly a chapel of eafe to St. Andrew's church in Holborn. In this parifh are two very fine fquares, each confift- ing of about four acres : one is called Queen Square, and is inclofed with very good houfes on all fides, except the north, where it lies open to the fields, which renders it very airy and pleafant. The other fquare is Red Lion Square, and is railed in, and adorned with an obelifk in the centre. In Great Ormond-ftreet, in this parifh, is Powis- houfe, thus called from its having been the town resi- dence of the duke of Powis. It is reckoned one of the moft beautiful buildings in and about London. In tljris ftreet is alfo the houfe of Charles Jennens, Efq; in which is one of the moft capital collections of paintings in England. In Lamb's Conduit Fields, in this parifh, is a large and commodious ftructure called the Foundling Hofpital, for the reception of expofed and deferted children. It confilts of two wings, and a chapel in the centre, and is built of brick. Before the hofpital is a large piece of ground, on each fide of which is a colonade of great length, which alfo extends towards two gates, feparated by a mafly pier, in fuch a manner, that coaches may MIDDLESEX, pafs and repafs at the fame time ; and on each fide of the gates is a door for perfons on foot. The area between the outer gate and the hofpital is adorned with grafs plats, gravel walks, and lamps, erected upon handfome pofts ; and behind it are two handfome gardens. This laudable charity was firft projected by feveral eminent merchants, in the reign of queen Anne, who propofed to erect an hofpital for the reception of deferted infants, and to employ them in fuch a manner, as to render them ufcful members of fociety : they propofed a fubfcription, and folicited a charter ; and though they did not fucceed at that time, fome of them left large fums for the ufe of fuch an hofpital, in cafe it fhould ever be erected. This circumftance coming to the knowledge of Mr. Thomas Coram, a commander of a fhip in the mer- chants fervice, he applied himfelf to folicit a charter for the eftabhfhment of fuch a charity ; and with unwearied afliduity, fpent the remainder of his life in promoting this defign. Having obtained a recommendation of his fcheme from feveral perfons of diftinction, he procured not only a large fubfcription to carry on the building, but, upon a petition to the king, his majefty granted a charter for eftablifhing this hofpital, dated the feventeenth of Oc- tober, 1 739 i and afterwards an act of parliament was obtained to confirm and enlarge the powers granted by his majefty to the governors and guardians of the hof- pital. As the building an hofpital would neceflarily take up much time, the governors hired a large houfe in Hatton Garden ; nurfes were provided, and it was refolved that fixty children fhould be admitted, which was accordingly done on the twenty-fifth of March, 1741. The foun- dation of the hofpital being laid the fixteenth of Sep- tember, 1742, one wing was finifhed in 1745, u P on which the children were removed from the houfe in Hatton Garden to the new hofpital. A chapel being now much wanted, the firft ftone of one was laid the firft day of May 1747, and the building was completed on the twenty-ninth of March, 1749. The general court being informed of the increafe of benefactions to this charity, and of the great number of children already in it, were of opinion, that the boys fhould be kept feparate from the girls ; for which end they gave directions for building the other wing of the hofpital ; and by the diligence of the governors, and the bounty of the public, the whole was completed before the firft of January, 1753. The governors, however, found it neceflary to limit the number of children taken in. But on the tenth of March, 1756, they petitioned the parliament for pecuniary afliftance, that they might enlarge their plan. Upon this, the parliament granted them ten thoufand pounds, and ordered, that all children under two months old, that fhould be brought before the thirty-firft of December then next, fhould be ad- mitted. On the feventeenth of January 1757, tne P ar " liament granted them the farther fum of thirty thoufand pounds, and ordered, that all children under fix months old, that fhould be brought before the firft of January, 1758, fhould be admitted. From the time this charity was made general, about fix thoufand infants were an- nually received ; but it appearing, that nearly one third of them died at nurfe, and that further afliftance, to a ftill larger amount, would be neceflary, the parliament, either becaufe the inftitution was not thought to anfwer its end, which was the prefervation of life, or becaufe the neceflary fums were thought too large to burden the public with, ordered the hofpital to be fhut up on the twenty-fifth of March, 176c. The buildings are neat and fubftantial, without any coftly decorations. In the court-room are placed four capital pictures, taken from facred hiftory. 1. The delivering of Mofes to his mother, Exod. ii. 8, g. By Mr. Hayman. 2. Mofes brought to Pharaoh's daughter. By Mr. Hogarth. 3. The hiftory of Ifhmael, Gen. xxi. 17. By Mr. 1 Highmore. 4. Chrift receiving the little, children, Lukexviii. 16, By Mr. Wills. Over the chimney is a bas relief, reprefenting children, employed in hufbandry and navigation. By Ryfbrack, In the other rooms of the hofpital are the portraits of Mr. Thomas Coram, by Mr. Hogarth. Mr. Milner and Mr. Jacobfon, by Mr. Hudfon. Dr. Mead* by Mr. Ramfey. Mr. Emerfon, by Mr. Highmore. In the dining-room is a large and beautiful fea-piece of the Englifh fleet in the Downs, by Mr. Monamy. Over the chimney, in another room, is Mr. Hogarth's original painting of the March to Finchley. In the chapel, the altar-piece, painted by an Italian painter, reprefents the wife men making their offerings. The fine organ was prefented by Mr. Handel. Gray's Inn is one of the four principal inns of courts which, though it lies within the limits of the parifh of St. Andrew, Holborn, is yet without the liberties of the city of London. It took its name from a 'noble and ancient family of the name of Gray, which formerly re- fided here ; and in the reign of Edward III. demifed it to fome ftudents of the law; but it is faid to have been afterwards conveyed to the monks of Shene, near Rich- mond in Surry, a few miles fouth-weft of London, who leafed it to the fociety of the inn, by which tenure they held it, till the diflblution of monafteries, when Henry VIII. granted it to them in fee farm, for the fame rent which has been paid to the crown ever fince. This inn confifts chiefly of two very handfome qua- drangles, one of which is called Coney Court, and was built in 1687, and one fide of it contains a hall, a cha- pel, and a library. The hall is a fine old ftructure, well built of timber, in the form of a college hall. The chapel is a Gothic building, lately beautified and re- paired. The library is well furnifhed with books in va- rious faculties and languages, for the ufe of the ftudents. But the chief ornament belonging to this, inn is a fpa- cious garden, confifting of gravel walks, between lofty trees, of grafs-plats, agreeable flopes, and a long ter- race, with a portico at each end. The terrace is afcended by a handfome flight of fteps. Lincoln's Inn, another of the four principal inns of court, was originally the palace of Ralph Nevill, bifhop of Chichefter, and chancellor of England, about the year 1226. This palace, which alfo ftood in the parifh of St. Andrew, Holborn, without the* city, came afterwards into the pofleflion of Henry earl of Lincoln, who con- verted it into a court for the ftudents of the law, about the year 1 3 10. From him it was called Lincoln's Inn, and confifted only of what is now called the Old Square, which is entered from Chancery Lane. This fquare has fince received feveral additional buildings ; and now contains, befides buildings for the ftudents, a large hall, where the lord chancellor hears caufes in the fittings after term, and a chapel, built in the Gothic ftile, upon pillars, by Inigo Jones, in the year 1623. The win- dows are painted with the figures of many perfons inen- tioned in the facred writings, at full length, and- the arms of feveral members of the fociety ; and under it there is an ambulatory, or walk, paved with broad ftones. In this fquare is alfo a good library. The New Square contains three rows of fpacious and elegant buildings ; one on the fouth, one on the eaft, and one on the weft fide : the north fide is open to a large garden, which has a terrace, commanding Lin- coln's Inn Fields, of which it makes one complete fide : the fouth and weft fides are in the parifh of St. Clement's Danes, and the eaft fide is in the liberty of the Rolls. In the middle of this fquare is a fluted Corinthian co- lumn, which ftands in the centre of a fmall bafon, fur- rounded with iron palifades: at the four corners of the bafe are four boys, through which the water of the bafon ufed to rife, and fall back in a fountain of four jets ; and on the top of the column is a fun-dial, with four fides. The fquare is feparated from the gardens by iron palifades ; and the greateft part of the weft fide is taken up by the offices belonging to the ftamp duty. St. James's 196 M I D D L St. James's church, Clcrkcnwell, was part of a church belonging to an ancient priory, dedicated to St. James the Lefs. This church was rebuilt about the year 1623. Clerkenwell was fo called from a celebrated fountain at one end of a green, called Clerkenwell Green, at which the parifh clerks of London ufed to meet annually, and exhibit dramatic reprefentations of certain fcripture hif- tories, before the lord mayor, citizens, and fome of the nobility. In Cold Bath Fields, in this parifh, is a very plain, but neat ftru£ture, called the Small Pox Hofpital, for the relief of the poor in that difeafe, being the only hofpital of the kind in Europe. It v/as inftituted in J 746, and is fupported by voluntary contribution. It has an elegant houfe belonging to it, near the New Road, Iflington, in this neighbourhood, for preparing fuch patients as are to be inoculated. The fums re- ceived for the fupportof this hofpital, from its firft infti- tution, amount to twenty-four thoufand nine hundred and twenty-fix pounds. There have been received into the houfe, during that time, feven thouiand nine hun- dred and forty-fix patients, who had the fmall-pox the natural way, of whom two thoufand nine hundred and fixteen have been cured, and one thoufand and thirty have died; four thoufand fix hundred and ninety-eight patients have been inoculated, of whom fix only are laid to have died. South-eaft of St. James's church is a fquare, called St. John's Square, being built on the fite of an hofpital or religious houfe, belonging to the knights of St. John of Jerufalem. The fquare, which is of an irregular figure, confifts of three piles of building, which form the north, the weft, and the eaft fides. In the e2ft fide, near the north end, is the church of St. John, Clerken- well, which was till lately a chapel of eafe to St. James's. The fouth fide confifts of the old gateway of the hofpital, in form of a caftle, with battlements at the top, and a fquare tower on each fide, and is called St. John's Gate. In this parifh is a building called Hicks's Hall, being the feffion-houfe for the juftices of the 'peace for the county of Middlefex. This building had its name from Sir Baptift Hicks, a mercer in Cheapfide, and a juftice of the peace, who erected it in j6i2. Here the grand jury meet eight times a year, to find bills of in- dictment againft the criminals who are to be tried at the feffions-houfe in the Old Bailey. Hicks's Hall is a plain brick building, with a portico at the entrance. In this parifh are an alms-houfe, three charity- fchools, a market for fheep-fkins, two work-houfes, a houfe of correction, a prifon, and the New River water-works. Various were the projects, in the reigns of queen Elizabeth and king James I. for fupplying the city of London with a fufficient quantity of water, fordomeftic ufes. The former granted an act of parliament, which gave the citizens liberty to cut and convey a river from any part of Middlefex or Hertfordfhire to the city of London, within the limited time of ten years; and the latter granted another act, in which they obtained the fame power, but without being confined to any limited time : nobody however began this great and important work, till at laft Sir Hugh Middleton undertook to bring a river from Amwell in Hertfordfhire, to the north fide of London, near Iflington. The work began on the twentieth of September 1608, and was attended with innumerable difficulties. The diftance from London is twenty miles, and he was obliged, in order to avoid the eminences and vallies in the way, to make it run a courfe of thirty-eight miles three quarters, and fixteen poles, and to carry it over two vallies in long wooden frames or troughs lined with lead ; that at Buthill, being fix hundred and fixty feet in length, and thirty in height ; under which, for the paffage of the land waters is an arch capacious enough to admit under it the largeft waggon laden with hay or ftraw : the other near Highbury is four hundred and fixty-two feet long, and feventeen in height, where it is raifed along the top of high artificial banks, and at the bottom of the hollow fupported by poles, fo that any gerfon mzy walk under it. In fhort, over and under this river, which fometimes rifes thus high, and at others E S E X. is conveyed under ground, run feveral confiderable currents of land waters, and both above and below it a iireat number of brooks, rills, and water-ccurfes, have their paffage. This river, which is of ineftimable benefit to London, was by this truly great man brought to the city within the fpace of five years, and was admitted into the refer- voir near Iflington on Michaelmas day 1613; on which day Sir Thomas Middleton, brother to the great Sir Hugh, was elected lord mayor for the enfuing year, who accompanying Sir John Swinerton, then lord mayor, attended by many of the aldermen, the recorder, and other gentlemen, repaired to the bafon, now called New River Head, when about fixty labourers, hand- fomeiy dreffed, and wearing green caps, carrying fpades, fhovels, and pick-axes, marched, preceded by drums and trumpets, thrice round the bafon, when flopping before the lord mayor, aldermen, and other gentlemen, who were feated upon an eminence, one of the labourers addreffed himfelf to them in a long copy of verfes, which being ended, the fluices were opened, and the ftream ran plentifully into the refervoir, under the found of drums and trumpets, the difcharge of feveral pieces of ordnance, and the loud acclamations of the people. Sir Hugh Middleton, to enable himfelf to complete this grand work, had at laft, after fpending his own fortune, been obliged to apply to king James I. who advancing a fum of money, became entitled to a moiety of the profits : he was alfo obliged to fell many other fhares, and in fhort, was in a manner entirely ruined by a project, that has been attended with unfpeakable be- nefit to this city ; fince, by the water of this river, a fpeedy ftop has been put to a great number of dreadful fires, and the health of the city has been remarkably preferved by the cleanlinefs it has introduced among us. Yet fo little were the great advantages that might then, and are now derived from this river, at that time ur.der- ftood, that for above thirty years, there were not divided above five pounds odd money, to each of the fhares, which are feventy-two in number. This river now draws molt of its water from the Lee, which being the property of the city of London, that corporation, contrary to the intereft of the city in gene- ral, oppofed a bill brought into parliament for giving farther powers to the New River Company, to take the advantage that might be obtained by the river Lee : but the oppofition was without effect, and in 1738-9, the bill palled into a law. The governors of the New River company then a- greed with the proprietors of the lands on the river Lee for a cut of two cubic feet of water from that river, at a certain rate; and after the agreement, told them, they would double the price for a four foot cut, which the proprietors agreed to, not confidering the great d if— proportion between the two cuts ; and this cut of the river Lee now fuppiies the largeft fhare of the New River water. In this river there are forty-three fluices, and over it two hundred and fifteen bridges. On its approaching the refervoir, called New River Head, there are feveral fmall houfes erected at a confiderable diftance from each other on its banks, into which the water tuns, and is conveyed by pipes to the nearer and more eafterly parts of this metropolis. On its entering the above refervoir, it is there ingulphed by fifty-eight main pipes, each of feven inches bore^ and here alio an engine, worked by horfes, throws a great quantity of water up to another refervoir, fituated on much higher ground, from which the water runs in pipes to fupply the higheft ground in the city, and its liberties. Many years ago, thirty thou- fand houfes were thus fupplied by this water, and fince that time, feveral main pipes have been laid, to carry it into the liberties of W eltminfter. This corporation confifts of a governor, deputy go- vernor, treafurer, and twenty-fix directors : thefe twen- ty-nine are the proprietors of the firft t'ii ; ty-fix fnares ; for though. the crown's moiety is in private hands, yet they have no fhare in the management. The above go- vernor and directors keep their office at a coffee houfe in Ludgate-ftreet, where every Thurfday they hold a board for MIDDLESEX. for appointing of officers, granting of leafes, and re- dreffing of grievances. The officers and fervants belonging to the company are, a cleric and his afliftant ; a furveyor and his deputy; fourteen collectors, who, after deducting five pounds per cent, for collecting the company's rents, pay their money every Thurfday to the treafurer; fourteen walkfmen, who have their feveral walks along the river, to prevent throwing into it filth, or infectious matter ; fixteen turn- cocks ; twelve paviours ; twenty borers of pipes; be- fides horfe engines for boring of others, together with a great number of inferior fervants and labourers. In the fame parilh of St. James, Clerkenwell, is an hofpital called the Charter-houfe, which is a corruption of the word cbartreux, a name formerly ufed for a convent or priory of the Caithufians. This edifice was originally a religious foundation. In the year 1349? a terrible peftilence fwept off more than half the inhabitants of London ; and the church- yards being unable to contain the dead, Sir Walter Manny, Bart, a foreign gentleman, who had been ho- noured with the order of the garter by king Edward III. for his bravery in the field, purchafed for a burial-ground a fpot of thirteen acres, where the Charter-houfe now ftands, and fifty thoufand perfons are faid to have been buried there in the fpace of that year. The following year that public benefactor built a chapel upon the fpot, according to the religion ^of thofe times, for prayers to be faid for the fouls of all who had been interred there, and afterwards founded a monaftery of the Carthufians in the fame place. This monaftery being difiblved at the Reformation, at length fell to the earl of Suffolk, who difpofed of it to Thomas Sutton, Efq; a citizen of London, for thir- teen thoufand pounds. The latter then applied to king James I. for a patent for his intended charitable founda- tion, which was readily granted in the year 161 1, and confirmed by parliament in 1628. The expence of fitting up the houfe for the reception of his penfioners and fcholars, amounted to feven thoufand pounds, which added to the purchafe money, made twenty thoufand pounds. But this was not all; he endowed his hofpital and fchool with fifteen manors, and other lands, to the value of above four thoufand four hundred and ninety pounds per annum ; and the eftate is at prefent improved to above fix thoufand pounds a year. In this houfe are maintained eighty penfioners, who, according to the inftitution, are gentlemen, merchants, or foldiers, who are fallen into misfortunes. Thefe are provided with handfome apartments, and all the necef- faries of life, except cloaths, inftead of which each of them is allowed a gown, and feven pounds per annum. There are alfo forty-four boys fupported in the houfe, where thev have handfome lodgings, and are inftructed in claffical learning, &c. Befides thefe, there are twen- ty-nine ftudents at the univerfities, who have each an allowance of twenty pounds per annum for the term of eight years. Others who are judged more fit for trades, are put out apprentices, and the fum of forty pounds is given with each of them. As a farther encouragement to the fcholars brought up on this foundation, there are nine ecclefiaftical preferments in the patronag* of the governors, who, according to the conftitution of the hofpital, are to confer them upon thofe who were edu- cated there. The penfioners and youths are taken in at the recom- mendation of the governors, who appoint in rotation. The buildings, which are extremely rude and irregu- lar, have nothing but their convenience and fituation to recommend them. The rooms are well difpofed, and the fquare in the front is very neat, and kept in as good order as moft in town. This fquare, and the large gar- dens behind, give a free air, and at one and the fame time contribute both to health and pleafure. The next parifh to St. 'James's, Clerkenwell, is that of St. Luke, fo called from the parifh church, which is dedicated to St. Luke, and commonly called Old-ftreet church. It is one of the fifty new churches, erected ac- cording to act of parliament. It was finifhed in 1732, and is a noble ftructure. 19 297 In this parifh is the Artillery Ground, where the ar- tillery company and trained bands of the city of London are exercifed. It confifts of eleven acres of ground, walled round, with iron gates, and was demifed in the year j 641 , to Sir Paul Pindar, and others, in truft, tor the artillery company for one hundred and thirty-nine years, as a military field for erecting an armoury and other offices, which are neatly built of brick. In Pefthoufe Row, in this parifh, is an alms-houfe., founded by George Palyn, citizen and girdler, for fix poor members of his company, and endowed with an eftate of forty pounds a year, of which the company is truftee. Near Palyn's alms-houfe, the French have an hofpital, erected in 1717, the governors of which were incorpo- rated the year following, by the title of « The- governor * and directors of the hofpital for the poor French pro - * teltants and their defcendants, refiding in Great Bri- * tain.' Here are upwards of two hundred poor men and women, of whom above one half are upon the foun- dation, and provided with all neceffaries at the expence of the hofpital ; but the reft are paid for by their fnends, at nine pounds a year each. By this charity a large in- firmary is alfo provided for lunatics : a chaplain, phyfi- cian, furgeon, and other pioper officers, are maintained for this foundation. In Pefthoufe Fields, in this parifli, is an houfe, erected in 1672, by the vifcountefs Lumley, for the accommo- dation of fix poor women of Aldgate and Bifhopfgate parifhes, with an allowance of four pounds, and twelve bufhels of coals per annum, each. In Pefthoufe Lane is an alms-houfe, founded, in 16 1 6 4 by Edward Alleyn, a comedian, for ten poor men and women, who receive fix-pence a week each, and every other year a coat or gown. Iri George-yard, Old-ftreet, in this parifh, an alms- houfe was erected in 1655, by Sufan Amyas of London, widow, for the habitation of eight poor fingle men or women, who are allowed, as a body, twenty fhillings a year for water, and fix pounds a year for coals : each of them has a feparate allowance of four pounds a year ; and twenty fhillings a year are fettled for one of the eight to read prayers every day. In this parilh there are three charity-fchools, one free fchool, and a work-houfe for the reception of the poor. St. Leonard's church, in Shoreditch, is faid to have been a place of worfhip in the time of the Saxons ; but the old church being much decayed, the prefent ftructure was begun in 1736. One of the moft confiderable public buildings in this parifh is an hofpital called the Haberdafhers Alms-houfe, or Afke's Hofpital, from its having been erected in 1692, by the company of haberdafhers, purftiant to the will of Robert Alice, Efq; one of their members, who left thirtv thoufand pounds for the building, and the relief of twenty poor members of the company of -haberdafhers ; ■ befides the maintenance and education of twenty boys, fons of decayed freemen of the fame company. This is a fumptuous edifice of brick and ftone, four hundred feet long, with an ambulatory in front of three hundred and forty feet, under a piazza, elevated on ftone co- lumns of the Tufcan order. In the middle of the build- ing is a chapel, adorned with columns, entablature, and pediment of the Ionic order : and under the pedi- ment is a niche, with a ftatue of the founder. The men, who are all to be fingle, have each an apartment of three rooms, with proper diet and firing, a gown once in two years, and three pounds a year in money. The boys have alfo a ward to themfelves, with all ne- ceffaries : their mafter, who reads prayers twice a day in the chapel, has, befides a houfe, forty pounds per an- , num, which, together with the falaries of the clerk, butler, porter, and other domeftics, amounts to about eight hundred pounds a year. Ironmongers hofpital, or, as it is often called, Jef- feries's Alms-houfe, is a large handfome building in Kingfland-road, in this parilh. It is built of brick, and is two ftories high. It confifts of a fpacious front, with two wings, and a chapel in the centre, and was erected by the company of ironmongers in 171 3, pur- E e e fuant M I D D L £ S E X. fuant to the will of Sir Robert Jefferies, formerly lord mayor of London, for the reception of fifty-fix poor members of the ironmongers company, who, befides a convenient room and part of a cellar, have each fix pounds a year, and a gown. A chaplain, who reads prayers every day, has a falary, and a diftindt apartment. No man is admitted under fifty-fix years of age ; and if married, his wife may cohabit with him, and be elected in his room when he dies. In this parifh there are eight alms-houfes, two cha- rity-fchools, and a large work-houfe fcr the poor. Chrift's church in Spittlefields is one of the fifty new churches. The foundation of it was laid in 1723, and it was finifhed in four years. In this parifh there are two French and two Englifh alms-houfes, two charity- fchools, and a work-houfe for the poor. In the parifh of St. Mary, Whitechapel, and near a place called Whitechapel-mount, is a large and com- modious brick building, called the London Infirmary, erected very lately by voluntary contributions. It is fupported by charitable contributions, for the relief of all fick and difeafed perfons ; and, in particular, manufacturers, feamen in the merchants fervice, and their wives and children. This charity was inftituted on the fecond of Novem- ber 1740, in a large houfe in Prefcot-ftreet, Goodman's Fields, which is now the Magdalen hofpital : but that becoming too fmall for this extenfive charity, a new, more capacious, and more commodious building, was creeled by the voluntary contributions of feveral go- vernors, in an airy fituation, near the Mount in White- chapel road. This is a very neat brick building, contrived to be plain and yet elegant, without being very expenfive; and it confifting of one extended front, without either wings or inner courts, the whole is feen at one view. To the middle door is an afcent by a flight of fteps, and over this part extends a very large angular pediment, within which is a dial. Above the ground floor extend two feries, of each twenty-three fafh windows, their number and the length of the building giving it an air of dignity. The architect has properly confidered the life for which it is defigned, and has fuited every thing to convenience. It is properly furnifhed, and fitted up with about one hundred and fixty beds for the reception of the patients. The fociety for carrying on this laudable undertaking confifts of a prefident, two vice prefidents, and a trea- furer, annually elected out of the moft confiderable benefactors to this charity, and of fuch perfons, who by giving a benefaction of thirty guineas or more at one time, become governors for life ; and thofe who fub- fcribe five guineas or more a year, are governors during fuch fubfeription. A general court of governors is held in the months of March, June, September, and December, to take the report of the committees, elect a houfe committee for the enfuing quarter, infpect accounts, and tranfadt fuch other bufinefs as may be then laid before them. The anniverfary feaft of this charity is held between the firft of February and the laft day of April, when a printed account of the general ftate of the hofpital, the number of patients received and difcharged, and an ab- ftract of the accounts for the year palt, is laid before them. A houfe committee of thirteen governors is appointed at every general quarterly court, who at their firft meet- ing eledt a chairman to prefide for the firft quarter, who meet at the hofpital on Tuefdays weekly, at eleven in the forenoon, to receive and difmifs patients, to prder and infpect the provifions and furniture fent in, and fuch neceflaries that may be wanting, and to examine and regulate the conduct of the fervants and patients, and other matters which come before them, according to the conftitution of this charity. All governors that pleafe to attend, have a vote at this committee, and their at- tendance isefteemed a favour. A committee of accounts, confifting of twelve gover- nors, is appointed at the genera! quarterly court in June, for one year, who meet at the hofpital once a quarter, to examine and audit tradofmens bills, which are paid by the treafurer within a fortnight after. The accounts are open at all times for the inl'pection of the governors. A phyfical committee, confifting of all fuch governors who practiie phyfic, furgery, or pharmacy, or are con- verfant in the knowledge of drugs or medicines (ex- cepting fuch 2s fhall be directly or indirectly concerned in ferving the 'hofpital with fuch neceflaries) are fum- moned by order of the chairman of the houfe committee for the time being every firft Thurfday in the month, and have power to order and infpect the necefiary drugs and medicines, and report their proceedings to the ge- neral quarterly court by their chairman. Two governors are appointed vifitors by the houfe committee, for one fortnight, to attend twice a week, or oftener, if they think proper, to infpect into the ma- nagement and conduct of the houfe, during the interval of the meetings of the houfe committee. A clergyman of the church of England reads prayers every day, and preaches every Sunday, and reads pravers morning and afternoon ; adminifters the facrament re-, gularly every month j and is ready to vifit, pray by, and adminifter the facrament at all times when required, to the patients in the wards. Three phyficians attend alternately ; two of the fur- geons daily, from eleven o'clock till one, without fee or reward, and give their advice and afliftance to all fuch objects as come within thofe hours, whether recom- mended or accidental. A furgeon extraordinary attends in confultation, in all dangerous cafes. The furgeons in waiting have an apprentice, or pupil, conftantly in the houfe, to receive, and, if necefiary, to call the fur- geon to fuch accidents as fhall be brought in at any hour of the day or night. An apothecary (with an afliftant) conftantly refides at the hofpital, who compounds 'and difpenfes all medi- cines ufed there, and folely attends the bufinefs thereof. A fteward (for whofe fidelity proper fecurity is given) has the charge of the houfe and furniture, keeps an ac- count of every thing brought to or expended in the houfe, and fubjects the fame to the examination of the vifitors and houfe committee, and has the infpect ion likewife of the conduct of all the men-fervants. Two matrons have the direction of the nurfes and other wo- men-fervants, and fee the diet and medicines admini- ftered according to order. Under them are nurfes and watchers, in proportion to the number of patients, who are guided by written orders, to prevent any mif- conduct. Proper diet for the patients has been fettled by the phyficians and furgeons engaged in this charity, and is fixed up in the wards for the fatisfaction of the pa- tients and their friends. No officers or fervants are permitted, upon pain of expulfion, to take of any tradefmen, patients, or other perfons, any fee, reward, or gratuity of any kind, di- rectly or indirectly, for any fervice done, or to be done, on account of this hofpital. Every governor is intitled to fend one in-patient at a time, and out-patients without limitation. Subfcribers of fmaller fums may likewife fend what number of out- patients they pleafe. All fubferiptions are during plea- fure, and any fmall fums from well-difpofed perfons will be thankfully received ; but in order to carry on this un- dertaking, all perfons are defired to pay their fubferip- tion at the time of fubferibing. The poor objects recommended as in-patients, if there are beds empty, are received at any hour without difficulty or expence, and are fupplied with advice, me- dicine, diet, wafhing, lodging, and every comfortable affiftance during their cure ; nor is any fecurity required againft future contingencies, they being, in cafe of death, buried at the expence of the charity, if not re- moved by their friends. All out-patients have advice and medicines adminiftered from eleven till one. All accidents, whether recommended or not, are re- ceived at any hour of the day or night. This is the plan of this noble charity ; and though this work has fubfifted but eighteen years, yet fuch has been the extraordinary encouragement given to it, that fince the third of November 1740, to the firft of Janu- ary M I D D ary 1759, the Turns generoufly contributed to its fupport amount to feventy-nine thoufand one hundred and fifty- thrce pounds, a great part of which is laid out in go- vernment fecurities. But what it ftill more extraordi- nary, one hundred and thirty-feven thoufand two hun- dred and fifty-two diftreffed objects have been relieved at this hofpital ; and from labouring under the oppreffion of fome of the moft malignant difeafes and unhappy accidents, have been reinftated in their honeft and in- duftrious capacities of working; and, fo far as ourob- fi rvation reaches, their morals much amended, whereby the public again enjoy the benefit of their labour, and they, and their poor families, are preferved from perifh- ing, and prevented from being an incumbrance to the community. And, notwithftanding the great number of objects relieved by this charity, it has not leilencd the number of patients relieved by other hofpitals. The fnbfcribers are defired to take notice, that if any patients do not conform to the rules of the houfe, or are guilty of any mifbehaviour, they will be difcharged, and lever more relieved by this charity: and not to fend any patient unable to walk, till they are firft allured of room in the houfe; ;md when they recommen i an in-patient, whole fettlement is in the country, it is further requefted, that, they will fatisfy the houfe committee concerning the removal of luch patient, when cured, or judged incurable. " No pcrfons of known ability to pay for their cure, " are allowed to partake of this charity ; nor any with *' infectious diftempers, or deemed incurable by the " phyficians and furgeons, or any in confumptive or *' afthmatic condition, are admitted into the houfe, be- '* ing more capable of relief as out-patients." The patients, being admitted without any expence, are required to be conftant in their attendance on the phyficians or furgeons at the hofpital, before eleven o'clock; and, at nine o'clock, to return thanks at the chapel, and at the weekly committee next after their cure ; and thofe only who attend their cure, and return thanks, will receive a certificate thereof, which will entitle them to future relief. The building in Prefcot-ftreet, Goodman's-fields, which was formerly the London Infirmary, is now ap- plied to the reception of penitent proftitutes, and is called the Magdalen-houfe. It is a plain neat ftructure, with a wall, and a fmall area before it. To prevent thefe penitents from being expofed to public view, the windows next the ftreet are concealed by wood-work, Hoping up from the bottom of each, fo as to admit the light only at the top: the fides are alfo inclofed. This excellent charity commenced in the year 1758. In a ftreet called Rofemary Lane, in this parifh, is a daily fair, commonly known by the name of Rag Fair; and here is a large building, called the Exchange, where great fums of money are returned in oldcloaths. In the parifh of St. Mary are two free fchools, two alms-houfes, a court of record, a prifon, and a work- houfe for the poor. Near the Tower of London is a church dedicated to St. Catharine, which anciently belonged to an hofpital founded by Matilda, confort to king Stephen. This church, which is a very antique building, is ftill colle- giate, and has a mafter and three brethren, who have forty pounds ; three fillers, who have twenty pounds; and ten beads-women, who have eight pounds per annum each. The parifh of St. Catharine ftill remains a diftinct li- berty, having its proper fteward or judge; and a court within the precinct for the trial of civil caufes, with a prifon for debtors ; nor can any perfon be arrefted here without an order from the board of green cloth. St. John.*s parifh in Wapping was taken out of St. Mary's, Whitechapel, in the reign of king William III. and is almoft entirely inhabited by mariners, or fuch as depend upon them. In confideration of the numerous poor in this parifh, and its having been a third part of the parifh of St. Mary Whitechapel, it is entitled to one third of all the gifts and legacies given to the mother parifh. Here are two charity-fchools, a work-houfe for the poor, a yard for fhip-building, and two docks, one of which is for the execution of pirates. L E S E X. 199 In St. Paul's parifh, Shndwell, there are two churches, a prefbyterian charity-fchool, a work-houfe for t.epoor, an alms-houfe, and a dock for building fhips. St. George's church in the Eaft is one of the fifty new churches erected according to act of pari i an ejrtt. It was begun in 17 15, and finifhed in 17^9, an J is a mafly building, in a very lingular tafte. In this parifh there is an hofpital, two chartty-fchools, awoik-houfe for the poor, and an alms -houfe. St. Anne's church, Limehoufe, is another of the fifty new churches. Jt was begun in 1 712, and fjnifhed in 1724; and is a building of a very lingular cpnftruction. In this parifh there are a work-houfe for the ptior, and two docks for fliip-builJing ; and this, as well as the two purifhes immediately preceding, are chi. fly inha- bited by feafaring people, or fuch as depend on them. St. Dunftan's church in Stepney is an old Gothic ftructure. Here was a church fo long ag:> as the time of the Saxons ; and Stepney appears to have been a manor in the time of William the Conqueror. This is a very large parifh, containing feveral hamlets, each of which has a chapel of eafe, belonging to Stepney church. On the fouth fide of the church-yard is an alms- houfe, founded in 1691 by the relict of Sir Samuel Mico, a citizen and mercer, for ten poor widows of the mercers company, who have each eight pounds thirteen fhillings and four-pence a year. At Mile-end, in the parifh of St. Matthew Bednal or Bethnal-green, is an hofpital belonging to the corpora- tion of Trinity-houfe. This hofpital was founded in 1695, for twenty-eight decayed or ancient it amen, who have been mafters or pilots of fhips, and for their wi- dows, each of whom receives fixteen fhillings tne firft Monday in every month, befides twenty (hillings a year for coals, and a gown every other year. This is a noble edifice, built of brick and ilone, confiding of two wings, and containing twenty-eight apartments. In the c ntre, between the two wings, is a chapel, which rifts confi- derably higher than the other buildings. In 1 735, the drapers company erected here a beautiful alms-houfe, a fchool and chapel, purfuant to the will of Mr. F rancis Bancroft, one of the lord mayor's offk is, who bequeathed to that company upwards of twenty- eight thoufand pounds, for purchafing a fite, and build- ing upon it an alms-houfe, with convenient apartments for twenty-four alms-men, a chapel, and a fchool-room for one hundred poor boys, and two dwelling houfes for two fchool-mafters, and alfo for endowing the fame ; fo that each alms-man fhould have eight pounds, and half a chaldron of coals yeaily, and a gown of baize every third year ; that the fchool-boys fhould be cloathed, and taught reading, writing, and arithmetic ; thut each of the mafters fhould have a falary of thirty pounds a year ; and that both fhould have the yearly fum of twenty pounds for coals and candles, for their own ufe, and that of the fchool ; together with a fufficient allow- ance for books, paper, pens and ink : every boy put out apprentice is entitled to four pounds, but only two pounds ten fhillings if put out to fervice. Here are alfo eight alms-houfes belonging to the dra- pers company, twelve belonging to the fkinners com- pany, twelve to the vintners company, and twelve alms-houfes known by the name of Fuller's alms-houfes, from their having been founded, in 1592, by a judge of that name. In Dog-row, near Mile-end, is an alms- houfe, built, in 171 1, by captain Fiiher, fo. t e widows of fix mafters of fhips. At Bethnal-green is an alms-houfe, founded by Mr. Bermeeter, for fix poor women. London was walled round very early; but by whom thele walls were built, is uncertain : fome think by Conftantine the Great, others by his mother Helena; but there is great reafon to believe it was by the emperor Valentinian I. about the year of Chrift 368. It is be- lieved that thefe walls quite furrounded the city, as well upon the fide of the Thames, as upon the land fide 5 but that part of the wall next the river has been deftroyed by the tide fo long ago, that there are now no traces even of its ruins. The 200 MIDDLESEX. The extent of the walls, or the circumference of the ancient city within them, is three miles, one hundred and fixty-five feet. Thefe walls were compofed of layers of flat Roman brick, and rag-Hones alternately. From the remains of the Roman work Hill to be feen in the city walls, it is conjectured that their original height was twenty-two feet : they were fortified with leveral lofty towers, the number of which, upon the land fide, was fifteen. The remains of two of thefe towers arc ftill to be feen ; one in a ftreet called Shoemaker-row, near Aldgate, and the other on the weft fide of a neigh- bouring ftreet, called Houndfditch. The remains of thefe two towers are thought to be the moll confiderable pieces of Roman architedture now in Britain : one of them ftill confifts of three ftories, and is twenty-fix feet high, though greatly decayed, and fplitin fome parts from top to bottom: the other is twenty-one feet high, perfectly found, and very beauti- ful, the bricks being as good as if newly laid, though the ftones are in fome parts crumbled away. In a ftreet called the Vineyard, not far from thefe towers, is the bafis of another Roman tower, about eight feet high, fupporting a new building of three ftories high. From the remains of thefe towers, it is conjectured, that their height was about forty feet. In the reign of king Henry II. the walls of this city were confiderably railed. In the reign of Richard I. great part of them was demoliftied, to make room for the ditch round the Tower of London ; and being much decayed in the reign of king Henry III. he obliged the citizens to repair them at a very great expence. In the reign of king John, the city of London was fortified, by drawing a deep moat or ditch two hundred feet wide, round the walls. This ditch was cleaned in the reign of king Richard II. And it appears, that the crown ufually granted th? magiftrates of London a duty on certain goods, to defray the expence of cleaning the ditch, and repairing the walls. In the reign of Edward V. great part of the city walls were rebuilt at the charge of the city companies. In the reign of Henry VIII. the ditch was cleaned ; and in the reign of queen Elizabeth, it was twice cleaned, and part of it widened. But all this ditch has for many years been filled up, and covered with buildings ; and fo much, both of the walls and ditch, has been appropri- ated by the city to public ufes, that there are few parts in which .either of them can be feen to advantage. Some remains of the walls ftill fubfift between the houfes on the eaft fide of Poor Jewry-lane, and the Mi- nories, and along Houndfditch, from the place where a gate called Aldgate lately flood, to that in which an- other- gate called Bifhopfgate flood. From the fite of Bifhopfgate, the ruins of the walls may be traced to the place in which a gate called Little Moorgnte flood ; from the fite of Little Moorgate to Aldermanbury, and from thence, behind the houfes, to the place where flood a gate called Cripplegate : from hence the walls extend on to the back of St. Giles's church, and run along the back of the houfes in Crowder's Well Alley, and are vifible almoft to the place where Alderfgate lately flood ; from the fite of Alderfgate they run along the back of the houfes in Bull and Mouth ftreet ; but from this ftreet there is fcarce any part of them vifible to Newgate ; from Newgate they are in fome places of a confiderable height, extending in a pretty regular line on the back of the houfes in the Old Bailey, almoft to the place where -Ludgate ftood. The original gates of this city, or thofe erected at the fame time with the walls, are fuppofed to be four, Newgate, Cripplegate, Aldgate, and Dowgate; but Dowgate has been demoliftied fo long, that even the fite of it is not exactly known. Thefe four original gates were 'erected over the three great Roman military ways, in this part of Britain. The Roman way, called Wat- ling Street, which would have interfered the Thames from Surry, entered London through Dowgate, and eroding the city, palled through Newgate, The mili- tary way called Ermine-ftreet is fuppofed to have pointed to Cripplegate, and the Vicinal way to have run through Aldgate. In the reign of king Henry II. the walls had feven gates, which were Aldgate, Bifhopfgate, Cripplegate, Alderfgate, Nt-wgate, Ludgate, and a poltern near the Tower ; bi>t that part of the wall next the Tower being demoliftied in the reign of king Richard I. the poftern having loft its old fupport, fell down, and was after- wards fupplied by a mean wooden building, which went alfo to decay many years ago. As for thofe places called Botolphfgate, Billingfgate, and the Watergates, near the Tower and Cullom-houfe, it does not appear that they ever were real gates, but wharfs only. v All thefe feven gates ftood till very lately, when an act of parliament having paffed foi widening and im- proving the llreets of this city, they were confidered as fo many incumbrances, and all taken down, in the years I 760 and 1 761, except Newgate, which is ftill ftanding. Aldgate is a name fuppofed by fome to have been de- rived from the antiquity of this gate, which was cer- tainly one of the original gates of the city, and is men- tioned in a charter of king Edgar, as far back as the year 967. It ftood on the eaft fide of the city, but be- ing ruinous, was rebuilt in 1609. On the top of the gate was a vane, fupported by a gilt fphere, on each fide of which, upon the top of the upper battlements, in the eaft front, ftood the ftatue of a foldier, holding a bullet in his hand. Beneath thefe, in a large fquare niche, was a ftatue of king James I. in gilt armour, with a lion and unicorn couchant at his feet. On the weft front was a ftatue of Fortune, g ; lt, ftanding on a globe, with a fpreading fail over her head. A little lower, on the fouth fide, was a figure of Peace, with a dove on one hand, and a gilt wreath on the other ; and over againft that, on the north fide, was a figure of Charity, with a child at her breaft, and another in her hand. Bifhopfgate, on the north fide of the city, is fuppofed to have been fo called from the figures of two bifhops, one on the north, and another on the fouth front. When it was firft built, is uncertain ; but it was kept in repair by the company of merchants of the Hanfe- towns, rending in this city, in confideration of certain privileges granted them. . This company rebuilt it in 1479, and it was erected, for the laft time, in 1735. Alderfgate, the moft ancient north gate of this city, was rebuilt in 1617. On the north front of it was a ftatue of king James I. on Lorfeback ; with two other figures, one of the prophet Jeremiah on one fide, and the other of the prophet Samuel on the other fide. Over the king's head were the arms of England, Scotland, and Ireland. On the fouth front of the gate was a figure of the fame king James I. fitting in his robes, on a throne. This gate, being damaged by the fire of London, was repaired in 1670. Newgate ftands in the north-weft corner of the city, and is faid to have been the common jail for felons taken in the city of London, or the county of Middlefex, ever fince the year 121 8 ; and fo lately as the year 1457, Newgate, and not the Tower, was a prifon for the no- bility and great officers of ftate. Newgate having been much damaged by the fire of London, the prefent ftruc- ture was erected ; the weft fide of which is adorned with three ranges of pilafters of the Tufcan order, with their entablatures ; and in the intercolumniations are four niches, with as many figures as big as the life, and well executed. The eaft front of the gate is adorned with a range of pilafters, with entablatures ; and in three niches are the figures of Mercy, Jultice and Truth. Ludgate was the weft gate of this city, and was re- built in 1586; it was however ruined by the fire of Lon- don, but repaired and beautified in 1699. The eaft fide of it was adorned with four pilafters of the Doric order, with their entablatures ; and in the intercolumniations were placed the figures of a pretended Britifh king, called Lud, and his two fons, Androgeus and Theomantius, in their Britifh habits. Thefe figures were firft fet up in the year 1260, when it was believed that the fictitious king Lud had firft built this gate, whence it was called Ludgate. The weft fide was adorned with two pilafters of the Ionic order, with their entablatures ; alfo two co- lumns, and a pediment, adorning a niche, in which was placed M I D D placed a good ftatue of queen Elizabeth in her robes : i-n l over it was the queen's arms, between the city fup- porters. This gate had been part of a prifon for fuch debtors as were freemen of the city, ever fince the year 1378, till 1760, when the prifon was demolifhed, to- gether wiih the gate. The prifon was known by the name of Ludgate prifon. ' Moorgate, winch flood between Bifhopfgate and Cripplegai.c, was firft built in 141 5, upon the fide of a moor, from which it was lb called, and over which caufeways were raifed from hence, for the pafiage of the citizens into the fields-. It was rebuilt after the fire of London in 1666, with a magnificent gateway, the arch of which was near twenty leet high. Cnppiegate flood between Moorgate and Alderfgate, and is fuppofed to have been thus called from having been anciently a place where lame and infirm perfons ufed to beg. It was a very plain folid ftrudture, without any ornament. In digging the foundation of Aldgate, when it was rebuilt in 1609, fevera! Roman coins were found ; and under the foundation of the city walls, in many places, a great number of Roman coins and medals have been dug up, among which fome were of Helena, the mother of the emperor Conftantine the Great; a circumftance that ftrongly favours the opinion of the walls having firft been erected by her, or by her fon Conftantine, at her requeft. In c'eiring the foundations of St. Paul's cathedral, after the fire of London, it was found to have been an- ciently a great burying-place ; for under the graves of modern times were difcovered the graves of the Saxons, who cafed their common dead in chalk ftones, and buried perfons of eminence in ftone coffins : below thefe were the graves of the ancient Britons, as appeared by a great number of ivory and wooden pins found among the duft : for it was cuftomary with the ancient Britons to pin the corpfe in woollen fhrouds, and lay it, without any other covering, in the ground. At a ftill greater depth was difcovered a great number of Roman urns, dimes, and other vefiels, found, and of a beautiful red, like fealing-wax : on the bottom of fome of thefe veffels were inferiptions, by which they appeared to have been drinking veffels : fome of them were beautifully em- bellifhed on the outfide with raifed work of various figures; fome were inferibed with the names of deities, heroes, and judges ; and the matter of which they were made vied in beauty with polifhed metal. Here were alfo difcovered feveral Roman coins, and a number of teftelae, of various forts of marble, in the form of dice, which were ufed by the Romans in paving the praeto- rium, or general's tent ; whence fome have thought, that this was the fite of the Roman pnetorium in London. In 1669, was dug up near Ludgate, a fepulchral ftone, engraved with the figure of a Roman foldier, and an infeription in remembrance of Vivius Marcianus, a foldier of the fecond legion, Oiled Augufta, to whofe memory this monument was erected by his wife Jan u aria Matrina. In digging the canal of Fleet-ditch, between Fleet- prifon and Holborn-bridge, feveral Roman utenfilswere difcovered, together with a vaft number of Roman coins, in filver, copper, and brafs. At Holborn-bridge were dug up two brazen figures of Roman deities, one of Bacchus, and the other of Ceres, and each about four inches long. Here were alfo found feveral antiquities of later times, as arrow-heads, fcales, feals engraved with Saxon characters, fpur-rowels, keys and daggers, toge- ther with a confiderable number of medals, and other matters. But one of the moft remarkable pieces of antiquity in this famous city, is London Stone, which has been carefully preferved from age to age, and is mentioned by the fame name fo early as in the time of Ethelftan, king of the Weft Saxons. This ftone, which ftands clofe under the fouth wall of St. Swithin's church, was formerly a little nearer the channel facing the fame place, and being fixed very deep in the ground, was fo ftrongly faftened by bars of iron, as to be irt no danger from the carriages. 19 L E S E X. 201 It teems very furprizing that fo great a piece of anti- quity has been cohitandy preferved with fuch care, and yet fo little has been faid of it, that the original caufe of its erection, and the ufe for which it was intended, are entirely unknown. A very ingenious author obferves, that as London appears to have been a Roman city, it will be no improbable conjecture, that this ftone was the centre, from whence they extended its dimenfions, and might fcrve as the ftandard a.1 which they began to compute their miles. Of this opinion was alfo Mr. Maitland, and the great Sir Chriftopher Wren, who grounded his conjecture upon proofs which are not every day to be obtained ; for by rebuilding many of the churches after the fire of London, he had an-oppoitu- nity of difcovering and tracing the ancient boundaries of London, with a greater nicety than is ever to be ex- pected again. On clearing the foundations of St. Mary le Bow in Cheapfide, he found, upon opening the ground, the walls, with the windows and pavement of a Roman temple, entirely buried under the level of the prefent ftreet. This temple flood about forty feet backwards ; but having occafion to bring the fteeple of the new church to range with the high ftreet, he again began to dig through the made ground, till having proceeded, eighteen feet deep, to his furprize he difcovered a Ro- man caufeway of rough ftone, four feet thick, clofe and well rammed, with Roman brick and rubbifh at the bottom, all firmly cemented : he was therefore of opi- nion, that this was the northern boundary of the Roman colony, and that the breadth from north to fouth was from this caufeway, now "Cheapfide, to the Thames ; the extent eaft and v/eft from Tower-hill to Ludgate. The principal or Praetorian Way, he fuppofed to be Watling-flreet ; whence London Stone appears to have been nearly in the centre of the ancient city, before it was deftroyed by Boadicea, and when it was not en- compafled with walls. About two miles weft of London, is Kenfington, a large and populous village, remarkable for a royal pa- lace, which, in the late reign, was generally the fummer refidence of the court. The palace, which was the feat of the lord chancellor Finch, afterwards earl of Nottingham, was purchafed by king William, who greatly improved it, and caufed a royal road to be made to it through St. James's and Hyde-parks, with lamp-pofts erected at equal diftances on each fide. Queen Mary enlarged the gardens ; her fitter, queen Anne, improved what Mary had begun ; and was fo pleafed with the place, that fhe frequently fupped during the fummer in the Green-houfe, which is a very beautiful one : but her late excellent majefty, queen Caroline, completed the defign, by extending the gardens from the great road leading to Acton ; by bring- ing what is called the Serpentine river into them, and by taking in fome acres out of Hyde-park, on which {he caufed a mount to be raifed, with a chair upon it, that could be eafily turned round, fo as to afford ftielter from the wind. This mount is furrounded with a grove of ever-greens, and commands a fine view over the gardens to the fouth and weft. In fhort, thefe gardens, which are three miles and a half in compafs, are kept in great order, and in fummer-time, when the court is not there, are reforted to by great numbers of people. The palace, indeed, has none of that grandeur which ought to ap- pear in the refidence of a Britifh monarch : its nearnefs to the town makes it very convenient, but it is very ir- regular in point of architecture. However, the royal apartments are grand, and fome of the pictures are good. On pitting the bafe court, you enter through a large portico into a ftone gallery, that leads to the great flair- cafe, which is a very fine one, and confifts of feveral flights of black marble fteps, adorned with iron balufters finely wrought. The painting here affords the view of feveral balconies with groups of figures reprefenting yeomen of the guard, and fpectators, among whom are drawn Mr. Ulrick, commonly called the young Turk, in the Polonefe drefs in which he waited on his late ma- jefty king George I. Peter, the wild youth, &c. The flair-cafe is richly decorated and painted bv Mr. Kent. Fff ' The 5o2 M I D D The firft room is hung with very fine tapeftry, repre- fenting the goddefs Diana hunting, andkilling the wild boar. Over the chimney is a picture in a grand talte, reprefenting one of the Graces in the character of Paint- ing, receiving inftructions from Cupid. This piece is faid to be done by Guido Reni. In one coiner of the room is a marble ftatue of Venus, with an apple in her hand ; and in another is the ftatue of Bacchus, whole head is finely executed; but the body, which is inferior to it, feems to be done by another hand. The lecond room has its ceiling painted with Minerva, furrounded by the arts and fciences, by Mr. Kent. Over the chimney is a very fine piece reprefenting Cupid ad- miring Ffyche, while fhe is afleep, by Vandyke. > On each fide of the room are hung feveral pictures, as king Henry VI f I. and the comptroller of his houfhold, by Holbein : a three quarter picture of king Charles I. and another of his queen, by Vandyke : the duke and dutchefs of York, by Sir Peter Lely : as alfo king Wil- liam and queen Mary, when prince and princefs of Orange, over the doors, by the fame hand. The third room, which was the late queen's apart- ment, is adorned with very beautiful tapeftry, reprefent- ing a Dutch winter-piece, and the various diverfions peculiar to the natives of Holland, done by Mr. Vander- bank. Over the chimney is an admirable picture of king Charles II. king James II. and their fiftc-r the princefs of Orange, when children, by Vandyke. In the fourth room is the picture of a battle or fkir- mifh between the Germans and Italians, by Holbein. Another of Danae defcending in a fhower of gold ; and another of the widow El-ot, finely executed by our countryman Riley. In the fifth room is a picture of the crucifixion*, and another of our Saviour laid on the crofs, both by Titian : of our Saviour calling St. Matthew from the receipt of cultoms, by Annibal Caracci ; and of his healing the fick in the temple, by Verrio : a picture of Henry IV. of France, by Titian : two heads of queen Mary I. and queen Elizabeth, when children, by Holbein : the late queen Anne, when an infant, by Sir Peter Lely : and feveral heads by Raphael. In the fixth room, or rather gallery, are the pictures of king Henry VIII. and queen Katharine of Arragon, both by Holbein : king Philip of Spain, and queen Mary, by the fame hand : king James I. by Vandyke : king Charles II. the face by Sir Peter Lely: queen Elizabeth in a Chinefe drefs, drawn when fhe was a prifoner at Woodftock : king James II. when duke of York, and another of his queen, both by Sir Peter Lely : king William and queen Mary in their coronation robes, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Sir Godfrey was knighted on his painting thefe pictures ; king William being doubtlefs pleafed with fo fine a picture of his queen. The next is queen Anne, after Sir Godfrey Kneller ; and a picture of queen Caroline, which is but poorly executed. In this room is a curious amber cabinet, in a glafs cafe ; and at the upper end a beautiful orrery, like- wife in a glafs cafe. The feventh, which is called the Cupola room, has a ftar in the centre, and the ceiling all around is adorned with paintings in mofaic. Round the room are placed, at proper diftances, eight buftos of ancient poets, and fix ftatues of the Heathen gods and goddefics at full length, gilt. Over the the chimney-piece is a curious bas relief in marble, reprefenting a Roman marriage, with a bufto of Cleopatra, by Mr. Ryfbrack. In the king's great drawing-room, over the chimney, is a very fine picture of St, Francis adoring the infant Jefus, held in the lap of the Virgin Mary, Jofeph at- tending, the whole performed by Sir Peter Paul Rubens. In this room are alfo the holy family, finely painted by Paul Vcronefe : three priefts, by Timoret ; a noble pic- ture of St. Agnes over one of the doors, by Domeni- chino: St. John Baptift's head, Mary Magdalen, and a naked Venus, all by Titian : a Venus in a fupine pof- ture, ftealing an arrow out of Cupid's quiver, with beau- tiful ornaments, in the high gufto of the Greek antique, reprefenting Love and the Drama, by Jacobo da Pun- turmo: upon the original out-lines of the great Michel L E 5 E X. Angclo Buonaroti : a picture of Villa -s, duke of HuiiM ingham, and his younger brother, when bovs r one of the capital pieces of Vandyke : two large pictures by Guido Reni, one of Venus dreffitig by the Graces ; the other of Andromeda chained to a reek • our Saviour in the manger, by Baffan ; and a picture of part of the holy family, by Paima the elder. The ceiling of this room, in which there is fuch a mixture of facred and prophane pieces^ is painted with the ftory of Jupiter and Semele. In the ftate chamber, the bed is of crimfon damafk; and over the chimney is a picture of our Saviour and St. John Baptift, by R.aphael. In the ftate dre.Tmg-room the hangings are all of needle-work, a prefent from the queen of Pruilia. Here is a picture of Edward VI. by Holbein ; of a young nobleman of Venice, by Tintorct ; another youno nobleman of the fame place, by Tintoiet ; and Titian'y lady, painted by himielf. The Painted Gallery is adorned with many admirable pieces. At one end is king Charles I. on a' white horfe, with the duke d'Efpernon holding his helmet; the king is an auguft and noble figure, with fome dejection in his countenance: the triumphal arch, curtain, and other parts of the back ground, are finely executed^ and fo kept, that the king is the principal figiire that ftrikes the eye : at a little diftance it has more of the life than a picture, and one is almolt ready to get out of the horfe's way, and bow to the king. Fronting this picture, at the other end of the gallery, is the fame king, with his queen, and two children, king Charles II. when a child, and king James II. an i iant in the queen's lap. The king's paternal tender- nefs is finely exprefled, his Ion ftanding at his knee : the queen's countenance is expreinve of an affectionate obedience to his majefty, and a fond care of her child, which fhe feems to defire the king to look on. The infant is exquifitely performed; the vacancy of thought in the face, and the inactivity of the hands, are equal to life itfelf at that age. Thefe two admirable pieces were done by Vandyke. One of the next capital pictures in this gallery is Either fainting before king Ahafuerus, painted by Tin- torct. All the figures are finely drawn and richly drefled in the Venetian manner; for the Venetian fchool painted all their hiftorical figures in their own habits, thinking them more noble and picturefque than ary other. The next piece is the nine mufes in concert, finely * drawn by the fame mafter. Midas preferring Pan to Apollo, is a fine piece, by Andrea Schiavone ; but it is a good deal hurt by time : the figures, however, are well drawn and coloured ; and the affectation of judgment in Midas is finely exprefled. The fhepherds offering gifts to Chrift, St. John in prifon, the ftory of the woman of Samaria, and John Baptift's head, arc fine pieces, by Old Palma. Noah's flood, by Baffan, is a mafterly performance. Over the chimney is a Madona, by Raphael, which, though a final 1 piece, gives a very high idea of that great mailer's abilities. There is alfo in this gallery a Madona by Vandyke, which is exquifitely performed. The other pictures here are, the birth of Jupiter, a fine piece, by Giulio Romano ; a Cupid whetting his arrow, by Annibal Caracci; and a Venus and Cupid, by Titian. AtChelfea, a very large and populous village fituated on the banks of the Thames, about a mile to the weft- ward of St. James's Park, there is an edifice for the re- ception of old foldicrs and invalids in the land fervice, called Chelfea Hofpital, the Royal Hofpital, and fome- times Chelfea College. The original building on this fpot was a college founded by Dr. Sutklift', dean of Exeter, in the reign of king James I. for the ftudy of Polemic divinity, and was endowed in order to fupport a provoft and fellows, for the inftruction of youth in that branch of learning. The king, who laid the firft ftone, gave many of -the materials, and promoted the work by a large fum of money, and the clergy were very liberal upon the fame occafion ; but the fum fettled upon the foundation by Dr. Sutkliff M t D D Sufkliff being far uneqttal to the end propofed, the reft was left to private contributions ; and thefe coming in ilowly, the work was ftopped before it was finifhed, and therefore foon fell to ruin. At length the ground on whic' the old college was erected, becoming efcheated to the crown, Charles II. began to erect the prefent hofpitai, which was carried on by James II. and com- pleted by William and Mary. The whole edifice, which was built by the great Sir Chriftopher Wren, confifts of a vaft range of buildings. The front toward the riorth opens into a piece of ground laid out in walks for the petitioners ; an J that facing the fouth, into a garden which extends to the Thames, and is kept in good order. This fide affords not only a view of that fine river, but of the county of Surry beyond it; In the centre of this edifice is a pidiment fupported by four columns, over which is a handfome turret, and through this part is an opening which leads through the building. On one fide of this entrance is the chapel, the furniture and plate of which was given by king James I. and on Vc other fide is the hall, where all the petitioners dine in common, the officers by them- selves. In this hall is the picture of king Charles II. on horfeback, with fevcral other pieces as big as the life, defigned by Signior Vario, and finifhed by Mr. Cook. Thefe were prefe'nted by the earl of Ranelagh. The pavement of both the chapel and hall are black and white marble. The altar-piece in the chapel is the murreccion, painted by Sebaftian Ricci. The wings, which extend eaft and weft, join the chapel and hall to the north, and are open towards the Thames, on the fouth : thefe are near three hundred and fixty feet in length, and about eighty in breadth ; they are three ftories high, and the rooms are fo well difpofed, and the air fo happily thrown in by means of the open fpaces, that nothing can be more pleafant. On the front of this fquare is a colonade extending along the fide of the hall and chapel, over which, upon the cornice, is the following infeription in capitals : In fubfidium et leva?nen emeritorum fenio, belloque frac- torum, condidit Carolus II. Auxh Jacobus II. Perfeccre GuLIELMUS et Maria, Rex et Regi?ia> MDCXC. And in the midft of the quadrangle is the ftatue of king Charles II. in the ancient Roman drefs, fomewhat bigger than the life, ftanding upon a marble pedeftal. This was given by Mr. Tobias Ruftat, and is faid to have > coft five hundred pounds. There are feveral other buildings adjoining, that form two other large fquares, and confift of apartments for the officers and fervartts of the houfe ; for old maimed officers of horfe and foot, and the infirmary for the fick. An air of neatnefs and elegance is obfervable in all thefe buildings. They are compofed of brick and ftone, and which way foever they are viewed, there appears fuch a difpolition of the parts as is beftjfuited to the purpofes of the charity, the reception of a great number, and the providing them with every thing that can con- tribute to the convenience and pleafure of the penfioners. Chelfea Hofpitai is more particularly remarkable for its great regularity and proper fubordination of parts, which is very apparent in the north front. The middle is very principal, and the tranfition from thence to the extremities, is very e2fv and delightful. The expence of erecting thefe buildings is computed to amount to one hundred and fifty thoufand pounds, and the extent of the ground is above forty acres. In the wings are fixteen wards, in which are accom- modations for above four hundred men, and there are befides in the other buildings, a confiderable number of apartments for officers and fervants. Thefe penfioners confift of fupcrannuated veterans, who have been at leaft twenty years in the army ; or thofc foldiers who aredifabled in theferviceof the crown. They wear red coats lined with blue, and are provided with all other cloaths, diet, wafhing and lodging. The governor has five hundred potinds a year; the lieutenant governor two hundred and fifty pounds ; and the major one hundred and fifty pounds. Thirty-fix officers are allowed fix-pence a day ; thirty-four light horfemen, L E S E ?L 203 and thirty ferjeants, have two millings a week each ; forty-eight corporals and drums have ten-pence per week; and three hundred and thirty-fix private men', ate each allowed eight-pence a week. As the houfe is called a garrifon, all the members are obliged to do duty iri their refpeitive turns ; and they have prayers twice a day in the chapel, performed by two chaplains^ who have each a falaryof one hundred pounds a year. The phyfician, fecretary, comptroller, deputy treafurer, fteward, and luigeon, havealfo each one hundred pounds per annum, and many other officers have confiderable falaries. As to the out-penfioncrs, who amount to between eight and nine thoufand, they have each feven pounds twelve (hillings and fix-pence a year. Thefe great expences are fupported by a poundage deducted out of the pay of the army, with one day's pay once a year from eacu officer and common foldier ; and when there is any deficiency, it is fupplied by a fum railed by parliament. This hofpitai is governed bv the following commiffioners ; the prefident of the council, the firft commiffioner of the treafury, the principal fe- cretary of ftate, the paymafter general of the forces, the fecretary at war$ the comptrollers of the army, and by the governor and lieutenant governor of the hofpitai Befides this hofpitai^ there is at Chelfea a phyftc- garden belonging to the apothecaries company. It con- tains almoft four acres, and is enriched with a vaft va-^ riety of plants, bo.h domeftic and exotic. This garden was given to the apothecaries company bv Sir Hans Sloane, Bart, on condition of their paying a quit-rent of five pounds a year, and delivering annually to the prefident and fellows of the Royal Society, at one of their public meetings, fifty fpecimens of different forts of plants, well cured, and of the growth of this garden, till the number of fpecimens amounts to two t; oufand. In this ullage is alfo a celebrated place of public re- fort, called Ranelagh Gardens, from their formerly be- longing to the earl of Ranelagh. This is one of thofe public places of pleafure which is not to be equalled in Europe, and is the refort of people of the firft quality. Though its gardens are beautiful, it is more to be ad- mired for the amphitheatre. This is a circular building, the external diameter is one hundred and eighty-five feet: round the whole is an arcade, and over that a gal- lery with a baluftrade (to admit the company into the upper boxes) except where the entrances break the con- tinuity. Over this are the windows, and it terminates with the roof. The internal diameter is one hundred and fifty feet, and the architecture of the infide corre- fponds with the outlide, except that over every column, between the windows, termini fupport the roof. In the middle of the area, where the orcheftra was at firft de- figned, is a chimney having four faces. This makes if warm and comfortable in bad weather. The orcheftra fills up the place of one of the entrances. The enter- tainment confifts of a fine band of mufic, with an organ, accompanied by the beft voices. The regale is tea and coffee. About twelve miles weft of London, is the royal pa- lace of Hampton Court, delightfully fituated on the north bank of the river Thames, at a fmall diftance from a village called Hampton. This palace was magnifi- cently built with brick by Cardinal Wolfey, who here fet up two hundred and eighty filk beds for ftrangers only, and richly ftored it with gold and filver plate; but it raifed fo much envy againft him, that to fcreert him- felf from its effects, he gave it to king Henry VIII. who, in return, fuffered him to live in his palace of Richmond. King Henry greatly enlarged it, and it had then five fpacious courts adorned with buildings, which in that age were greatly admired by all foreigners, as well as the natives, In order to give a more perfect idea of this grandeur, we fhall give a defcription of the ornaments of this pa- lace, as they appeared in the reign of queen Elizabeth, from an author who defcribes what he himfelf faw. " The chief area, fays he, is paved with fquare " ftone ; in its centre is a fountain that throws up wa- " ter, covered with a gilt crown, on the top of which " is a ftacue of Juftice, fupported by columns of black and 204 . M I D D L tc and white marble. The chapel of this palace is moft tc fplendid, iii which the queen's clofet is quite tranfpa- «' rent, having its windows of cryftal. We were led " into two chambers called the prcfencc, or chambers ** of audience, which {bone with tapeftry of gold and the lord mayor. by his fteward, holds a court of record every Monday at the feffions-houfe on St. Margaret's hill, in this borough, for all debts, damages and trefpaffes, within his limits. The other divifion is called the Clink, or the Manor of Southwark, and is fubdivided into the great Liberty, the Guildhall, and the king's Manor, for each of which fubdivifions a court leec is held, where the conftables, aleconners, and flefh-tafters are chofen, and fuch other bufinefs tranfadted. The Clink liberty is under the ju- rifdi<£tion of the bifhop of Winchefter, who, befides a court leet, keeps a court of record here, by his fteward and bailiff, for pleas of debt, damages and trefpaffes. Court-leets are alfo kept at Lambeth, Bermondfev, and Rotherhith, three fmall diftricls belonging to this bo- rough. The military government of Southwark is by the lord lieutenant of the county of Surry, and eleven deputy- lieutenants. Southwark confifts of the parifhes of St. Olave, St. John at Horfleydown, St. Saviour, commonly called St. Mary Overy, St. George, St. T homas, and Chrift- church. Thefe, together with the adjacent parifhes of St. Mary at Lambeth, St. Mary Magdalen Bermondfey, St. Mary Newington, and St. Mary Rotherhith, com- pofe a diftridl of the metropolis, which extends itfelf along the fouth bank of the Thames, from Vauxhall to Deptford-bridge, about fix miles twenty-three poles in length, and about a mile in breadth, from London- bridge to the extremity of Newington : and though this diftricf is only a fuburb of London, yet, for its extent and number of inhabitants, its charitable foundations, trade and wealth, few cities in England are equal to it. In Southwark there is a compter for the bailiwicic, and another prifon for the Clink liberty, befides the King's Bench prifon, and the Marfhallea prifon and court. The principal parifh-church in Southwark is that of St. Saviour, which was formerly a priory of regular ca- nons ; and being dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and fituated on the bank of a fmall river called the Ree, had the name of St. Mary Over- Ree, or Overy, given it, by which name it is ftill commonly known ; notwith- ftanding the name of St. Mary Overy was changed to that of St. Saviour in the reign of Henry VIII. when it was united, by acf of parliament, to two other pa- rifhes, one called St. Margaret's, and the other St. Mary Magdalen's. This church is built in the manner of a cathedral, with three ifles, from eaft to weft, and a crofs ifle. It is thought to be the largeft parifh church in England ; the ifles, from eaft to weft, meafuring two hundred and fixty-nine feet in length, and the crofs ifle one hundred and nine: the height within is forty-feven feet; and it has four fpires, and a tower one hundred and fifty feet high. In the parifh of St. Saviour is the feffions-houfe, on St. Margaret's Hill, which was burnt down in 1677, but rebuilt in 1686; and on the fouth fide has a niche, in which is a ftatue of king James II. In this parifh are four charity-fchools, four alms- houfes, and a work-houfe for the poor. The church of St. George is a good building, erected in 1736, the old church being ruinous. In this parifh there are a charity-fchool, an alms-houfe, a work-houfe, and a county bridewell, called the White Lion Prifon. Here alfo is an hofpital called St. Peter's, founded by the fifhmongers company, for twenty-two alms-people. It is neatly built, and confifts of three quadrangles, with a chapel and a garden. The perfons admitted are obliged by the ftatutes to bring houihold furniture with them, and to leave it to the houfe when they die, in order to defray the charges of their interment, and for the benefit of the alms-people who attend them in theii ficknefs. They have each two very good rooms, three fhillings a week, and fifteen fhillings at Chriftmas, with a chaldron of coals, and a gown, once a year ; and one of the penfioners, who reads prayers twice a day in the chapel, has an additional allowance of forty lhil- lings a year. Contiguous to St. Peter's hofpital, is Hulbert's alms- houle) founded in 17 19 by the fifh-mongers company, fox M I D D for twenty p6or men and women, who have much the fame accommodation and allowance with thofe of St. Peter's, and are under the direction of the fame com- pany. In Blackman-ftreet, in this parifh, there are eight alms-houfes, founded in 1651, for fixteen poor people, one half to be put in by the drapers company, and the other half by the parifhioners. Here is a chapel, which has been ufed alfo as a charity-fchool for the poor child- ren of the parifh. St. Thomas's church was firft erected by king Ed- ward VI. for the ufe of the hofpital of the fame name, to which it is contiguous ; but on the great increafe of thehoufes and inhabitants in the precinct of the hofpital, the church was made parochial, and a chapel was erected in the hofpital, for the ufe of its patients. This church being decayed, was rebuilt in 1702. In this parifh, befides an alms-houfe and a charity- fchool, there are the hofpitals of St. Thomas and Guy, two of the nobleft endowments in England. St. Thomas's hofpital was firft erected in 1215, by Peter de Rupibus, bifhop of Winchefter, who dedi- cated it to St. Thomas the Apoftle, and endowed it with land to the amount of three hundred and forty- three pounds a year, from which time it was held of the abbots of Bermondfey ; one of whom, in 1428, granted a right to the mafter of the hofpital to hold all the lands it was then in poffeffion of, belonging to the faid abbot and convent, the whole revenue of which did not ex- ceed two hundred and fixty-fix pounds, feventeen fhil- lings and fix-pence per annum. In the year 1 55 1, after the citizens of London had purchafed of king Edward VI. the manor of Southwark and its appurtenances, of which this hofpital was a part, they laid out eleven hundred pounds in repairing and enlarging the hofpital, and immediately received into it two hundred and fixty poor, iick, and lame patients ; upon which the king, in 1553, incorporated this hofpital with thofe of Chrift-church and Bridewell, in the city of London. The building being much decayed, three beautiful fquares, adorned with colonades, were erected in 1693, by a voluntary fubfeription ; to which, in 1732, the governors added a magnificent building, confifting of feveral wards, with proper offices. Though there was no eftate belonging to this hofpital when the city purchafed it of king Ed- ward VI. yet, by the bounty of the citizens, the annual difburfements have for many years amounted to eight thoufand pounds; and it appears, that from 1728 to 1734 inclufive, the number of patients admitted into this hofpital amounted to thirty-five thoufand five hund- red and thirty-eight, of which thirty-three thoufand and ninety-feven were cured and difcharged. The number of governors of this hofpital, befides the lord mayor and aldermen, is uncertain, but they are feldom more than two hundred and fixty. The officers and fervants are, a prefident, treafurer, three phyficians, three furgeons, a clerk, a receiver, an apothecary, a fteward, and a chaplain, befides the minifter of the parifh, who is paid by rhe hofpital, a matron, a brewer and butler, a cook, affiftant and fervant, an affiftant clerk in the compting- houfe, two porters, four beadles, nineteen fillers, as many nurfes and watch-women, a chapel clerk and fexton, and one watchman. The houfe contains nine- teen wards, and four hundred and feventy-four beds. Guy's hofpital ftands very near St. Thomas's, and is perhaps the moft extenfive charitable foundation that ever was eftablifhed by one man in private life. The founder, Thomas Guy, a bookfeller in Lombard-ftreet in London, lived to fee the building roofed in ; and at his death, in 1724, left two hundred and thirty-eight thoufand, two hundred and ninety-two pounds fixteen fhillings, including the expence of the building, to finifh and endow it. This hofpital confifts of two fpacious fquares, containing twelve wards and four hundred and thirty-five beds. In the area of the principal fquare is a ftatue of the founder. Fifty-one gentlemen, of the founder's nomination, were, together with his nine executors, made a body corporate by act of parliament, with the title of prefident and governors of Guy's hof- pital, the number of governors Rot to exceed fixty 5 L E S E X. 2it out of this body committees are chofen, who fill up the vacancies of governors as they happen. Four hundred and two patients were at firft admitted, according to the founder's will, and handfome falaries and wages were fettled on the officers and fervants of the hofpital. The number of patients admitted into it, from 1728 to 1 734 inclufive, was twelve thoufand four hundred and two, of whom there were difcharged ten thoufand five hundred and forty-three. In July 1738, there were four hundred and fix patients in the hofpital, befides one thoufand fix hundred out-patients ; and the total dif- burfements on account of the houfe amounted to feven. thoufand nine hundred and feventy-eight pounds, four* teen fhillings and a penny per annum. Newington, or Newton, to diftinguifh it from an- other town of the fame name near London, is alfo called Newington Butts, from butts, at which the populace formerly ufed tofhoot, and which were letup in this, as well as in many other towns in England, to exercife the inhabitants in the art of archery. In the parifh of Newington Butts are a charity-fchool, three alms-houfes, and a work-houfe. In this parifh alfo is Kennington Common, the place where criminals, convicted of capital offences in the borough of South- wark, are executed. At Lambeth, the archbifhops of Canterbury have long had a palace, originally built by Baldwin, arch- bifhop of that fee, in the year 1188, who firft intended to have erected a fuperb ftructure at Hockington, near Lambeth j but the monks, with whom he was then at variance, obtained the pope's mandate againft it : when taking down what he had erected, he removed the belt of the materials to Lambeth, and there erected a palace, a college, and a church, having before purchafed the ground of the bifhop and convent of Rochefter by a fair exchange. In the year 1250, Boniface, archbifhop of Canter- bury, having, by his arrogance, rendeied himfelf hate- ful to the citizens of London, retired, for the fecurity of his perfon, to this palace; and finding it in a ruinous condition, rebuilt the whole north fide, the archiepifco- pal apartments, the library and cloifters, the guard- chamber* and the chapel. From that time this palace became the refidence of the greateft perfons in the church, and was foon en- larged by many additional buildings : cardinal Pool erected the gate, which, for that time, is a noble piece of work. The Lollards-tower, fo called from a room in it prepared for the imprifonment of the followers of WicklifF, the firft Britifh reformer, who were called Lollards, was finifhed by archbifhop Chichely, and re- mains a lafting monument of his cruelty and antichriftian fpirit. It is a fmall room, twelve feet long, and nine broad, planked with elm ; and there ftill remain eight rings and ftapels, to which thefeChriftians were chained lor prefuming to differ in opinion from that prelate. The fpacious hall was erected by Juxton ; the brick edifice between the gate and that hall was begun by San- croft, and finifhed by the great Tillotfon. From the prefent ftructure being thus erected at dif- ferent periods of time, it is not at all furprifing that it has little appearance of uniformity ; but the edifice, though old, is, in moft parts, ftrong ; the corners are faced with ruftic, and the top furrounded with battle- ments ; but the principal apartments are well propor- tioned, and well lighted : the Gothic work about it is irregularly difpofed, and is in itfelf irregular. Some of the inner rooms are too clofe and confined ; but there are many others open and pleafant in themfelves, with the advantage of being convenient, and of affording very agreeable profpects ; for the palace being fituated on the bank of the Thames, it enjoys a fine view up and down the river, and from the higher apartments an extenfive profpect of the adjacent country. The palace, with the rows of trees before it, and the church of Lambeth adjoining, when viewed from the Thames, makes a very pleafing and picturefque appear- ance. In this archiepifcopal palace is a very fine library, founded in the year 16 10 by archbifhop Sancroft, who left, i MIDDLESEX. 212 left, by will, all his books for the ufe of his fuccefibrs. This library has fince been very greatly encreafed by the benefactions of the archbifhops Abbot, Sheldon, and Tennifon, and ronllfts of fix hundred and feventeen volumes in manufcript, and above fourteen thoufand five hundred printed books. The church, which ftands adjacent to the palace, is a very antique ftruclure, dedicated to St. Mary. It has a fquare tower, and both that and the body of the church are crowned with battlements. In this parifh are eight precincts, diftinguifhed by the names of the archbifhop's, the prince's, Vauxhall, Kennington, the Marfh, the Wall, Stockwell, and the dean's precinct. It is remarkable, that at Lambeth Wall is a fpot of ground, containing an acre and nineteen poles, called Pedlar's Acre, which has belonged to the parifh for time immemorial, and is faid to have been given by a pedlar, on condition that his picture, with that of his dog, be perpetually preferved in painted glafs in one of the windows of the church ; which the parifhioners complied with, ind placed the pictures in the fouth-eaft window of the middle ifle. Here is a charity-fchool, founded by Richard Lau- rence, citizen and merchant of London, in the year 1 66 1, for educating twenty poor children of the Marfh and Wall liberties, for which purpofe he endowed it with thirty-five pounds per annum. The village of Kennington, one of the eight pre- cincts of Lambeth parifh, has the honour of giving the title of earl to the duke of Cumberland. Vauxhall, another precinct of the parifh of Lambeth, is particularly remarkable for the pleafantnefs of its well known gardens, which have been many years converted into a place of genteel entertainment during the fummer fcafon. Thefe gardens are perhaps the firft of the kind in the world. In the centre is a fuperb orcheftra, containing a fine organ, and a band of mufic, with fome of the beft voices ; and the Ceats, or boxes, are difpofed to the beft advantage, with refpect to hearing the mufic. In moil of the boxes are pictures painted from the defigns of Mr. Hayman, on fubjects admirabiy adapted to the place. But there are in the grand faloon feveral pictures painted with his own hand, one of which reprefents the fuccefs of lord Clive in the Eaft Indies. Thefe are all univer- fally admired for the defign, colouring, and expreflion. The trees in thefe gardens are fcattered with a pleafing confufion. At fome diftance from the orcheftra are fe- veral noble viftos of very tall trees, where the fpaces between each are filled up with neat hedges, and on the infide are planted flowers and fweet fmelling fhrubs. Some of thefe viftos terminate in a view of ruins, others in a profpect of the adjacent country, and fome are adorned with the painted reprefentations of triumphal arches. There are alfo feveral ftatues, and in particular a very good one in marble, by the late Mr. Roubiliac, of the celebrated Mr. Handell, playing on a lyre, in the character of Orpheus. As Ranelagh has its rotunda, la here is alfo a rotunda and ball-room, finely illumi- nated, in which is an orcheftra with an organ, where, if the evening proves rainy, the company may be fafely fheltered and entertained. When it grows dark, the garden near the orcheftra is illuminated, almoft in an inftant, with about fifteen hundred glafs lamps, which glitter among the trees, and xender it exceeding brilliant ; and foon after, a very ex- traordinary piece of machinery has of late been exhi- bited, on the infide of one of the hedges, near the en- trance into the viftos : by removing a curtain, is fhewn a very fine landfcape, illuminated with concealed lights, in which the principal objects that ftrike the eye, are the •cafcade, or water-fall, and a miller's houfe. The exact appearance of water is feen flowing down a declivity, and turning the wheel of the mill : it rifes up in foam at the bottom, ana then glides away. This moving pic- ture, attended with the noife of the water, has a very pleafing and furprifing effect, both on the eye and ear; but we cannot help obferving, with refpect to this piece, thathcwever well it is executed, yet the company oeing obliged to wait till the curtain is drawn, and after be- holding it for a few minutes, having it again fuddenly concealed from their fight, when the exhibition is over for that evening, has too much the air of a raree-fhow. If it could have been contrived to make its appearance gradually, with the rifing of the moon in the fame pic- ture, which might fecm to enlighten the profpect, and at length, by degrees, become obfeured, by the pafling of that luminary behind a cloud, the efFect would have been certainly much more agreeable. Market Towns, £sV. in Middlefex. Hackney, a village in Middlefex, on the north-eaft fide of London, is a very large and populous one, in- habited by fuch numbers of merchants and wealthy per- fons, that it is faid there are near an hundred gentlemen's coaches kept. The parifh has feveral hamlets belong- ing to it, among which are Clapton on the north, Dorlefton and Shacklewell on the weft, and Hummer- ton, which leads to Hackney Marfh, on the eaft. In this village are two meeting-houfes, viz. a new prefby- terian meeting near the church, and an independent meeting in Mare-ftreet : befides a prefbyterian meeting- houfe at Clapton. There are alfo here fix boarding- fchools, a free fchool, a charity-fchool, and feveral alms-houfes. Hackney church was a diftinct rectory and vicarage in the year 1292, and dedicated to St. Auguftine ; but the knights templars having obtained a mill and other pofTeflions in the parifh, they were, upon the (uppreflion of their order, granted to the knights templars of St. John of Jerufalem, from whom the church is fuppofed to have received the prefent appellation of St. John. However, it was not prefented to by that name till after the year 1660. It is in the gift of Mr. Tyfon, lord of the manor, but in ecclefiaftical affairs is fubject to the bifhop of London. At the bottom of Hackney Marfh there have been, difcovered, within thefe few years, the remains of a great ftone caufeway, which, by the Roman coins found there, appears to have been one of the famous highways made by the Romans. This village being anciently celebrated for the nume- rous feats of the nobility and gentry it contained, this occafioned a great refort thither of perfons of all ranks from the city of London, whereby fo great a number of horfes were daily hired in the city on that account, that at length all horfes to be let received the common appellation of Hackney horfes ; which denomination has fince been communicated to public coaches and chairs. 'Tis obfervable, that fo lately as the year 1625, there were not above twenty Hackney coaches in the city of London, and the adjacent parts; and that thefe did not ply in the ftreets as at prefent; but thofe who had oc- cafion for them, fent for them from the ftables where they ftood : but in 1635, the number of thefe coaches being greatly increafed, they plied in the ftreets, which being then much narrower in many parts of London than at prefent, the common paffages were obftructed, and rendered dangerous ; and it was alledged, that by this great increafe, the price of hay and other provender was much enhanced. Upon this a proclamation was publifhed by his majefty king Charles I. on the niner teenth of January, ftridtly commanding, that after the twenty-fourth of June following, no Hackney coach ftiould be ufed within the city and fuburbs of London, except for carrying of people to and from their habita- tions in the country ; and that no perfon whatfoever fhould be allowed to keep a coach in this city, except fuch perfons as were capable of keeping four able horfes fit for his majefty 's fervice, which were at all times to be ready when called for, under a fevere penalty. How- ever, in 1654, Cromwell publifhed an ordinance, by which he ordered that the Hackney coaches, which he limited to two hundred, fhould be under the care and government of the court of the lord mayor and alder- men. And in 1662, it was enacted by parliament, that all the Hackney coaches, which then amounted to four hundred, fhould annually pay the fum of five pounds each H i d b L each towards the charge of paving rind cleaning the frfeets of London and Weftminfter. Since which time the number of Hackney coaches has been augmented to eiaht hundred, and both they and the Hackney chairs put under the government of the Hackney ccach-offlce. Iflin^ton, a large village on the north fide of Lon- don, to which it is r.lmoft contiguous. It appears to have been built by the Saxons, and in the time of Wil- liam the Conqueror, was called lfendon, or Iflcdon. Bv the I'oUth-weft fi le of this village, is a fine referVoir called New River Head, which confifts of a large bafon, into which the New River dilcharges itfelf j part of the water is from thence conveyed by pipes to London, while another part is thrown by an engine through other pipes uphill to a refervoir, which lies much higher, in drder to fupply the higheft parts of London. The church is one of the prebends of St. Paul's; the old Gothic ftructure lately taken down was erected in the vear 1503, and ftood til! 1 75 1 , when it being in a ruinous condition, the inhabitants applied to parliament for leave to rebuild it, and foon after erected the prefent ■ftrudtur;', which is a very fubftautial brick edifice, though ft does not want an air of lightnefs. The body is well enlightened, and the angles ftrengthened and decorated with a plain ruftic. The floor is railed confiderably above the level of the church-yard, and the door in the front is adorned with a portico, which confifts of a dome fupported by four Doric columns; but both the door and the portico appear too fmall for the reft of the building The ftecple confifts of a tower, which rifes fquare to a confiderable height, terminated by a cornice ftipporting four vafes, at the coi ners. Upon this part is placed an*octangular baluftrade, from within which rifes the bafe of the dome in the fame form, fupporting Co- rinthian columns with their fhafts wrought with ruftic. Upon thefe refts the dome* and from its crown rifes the fpiie, which is terminated by a ball and its fane. Though the body of the church is very large, the roof is fupported without pillars, and the infide is extremely commodious, and adorned with an elegant plainnefs. This parifh is very extenfive, and includes Upper and Lower Holloway, three fides of Newington Green, and part of Kinglland. There are in Iflington two inde- pendent meeting-houfes, and a charity-fchool, founded in the year 1 6 J 3 , by dame Alice Owen, for educating thirty children. This foundation, together with that of a row of alms-houfes, are under the care of the Brewers company. There is here alio a fpring of chalybeat water in a very pleafant garden, which for fome years was honoured bv the conftant attendance of the princefs Amelia, and many perfons of quality, who drank the waters. To this place, which is called New Tun- bridge Wells, many people refort, particularly during the hammer, the price of drinking the waters being three- pence for each perfon. Near this place is a houfe of entertainment called Sadler's Wells, where, during the fummcr feafon, people are amufed with rope-dancing, Stumbling, and pantomime entertainments. Mary la Bonne, thus called from its being fuppofed to fignify St. Mary the Good ; though its original name, according to Maitland, was Maryborne. This gentle- man gives the following account of the rife of this vil- lage, which is now united to this great metropolis. The village of Tvborne going to decay, and its church, named St. John the Evangelift, left alone by the fide of the highway, it was robbed of its books, veftments, bells, images, and other decorations ; on which the pa- rifnioners petitioned the bifhop of London for leave to take down their old, and erect a new church elfewhere, which being readily granted in the year 1400, they erected a new church where they had fome time before built a chapel, and that ftructure being dedicated to the Virgin Mary, received the additional epithet of Borne, from its vicinity to the neighbouring brook or bourn. , This village, if it may be ftill called by that name, is almoft joined by new buildings to this metropolis; and the new buildings this way are now increafing fo very fall, that it will undoubtedly, in a very fhort time, be quite joined, and become a part of it. The old church, which was a mean edifice, was pulled down, and a new 21 E S £ X. 213 one erected in 1741. This ftructure is built with brick in aS plain a manner as pofljble. It has two feries of fmall arched windows on each fide, and the only Orna- ments are a v;fe at each corner, and a turret a.z the weft end. There are herb alio a French meeting- h >ufe, a charity-fchool, and a place of public entertainment, which has a pleafant garden, and a band of vocal and inftrumcntal rhufic. I his rriay be coufidered as a kind of humble imitation of Vauxhail. Pancras, a fmall hamlet oh the north-weft fide of London, in the road to Kentifh Town. It has a church dedicated to St. Pancras, and called St. Pancras in the Fields, an old plain Gothic ftrudture, with a fquare tower without a fpire. It is a vulgar tradition that this church is of greater antiquity than that of St. Paul's cathedral, of which it is only a prebend ; but this arifes from a miftake ; for the church of St. Pancras, termed the mother of St. Paul's, was fituated in the city of Canterbury, and was changed frOm a Pagan temple ta a Chriftian church by St. Auftin the monk, in the year 598, when he dedicated it to St. Pancras. Tha church-yard is a general burying-place for per- fons of the Romifh religion. At a public houfe on the fouth fide of the church is a medicinal fp'l ifig. The church, which ftood on the north fide of St. Pancras lane, near Queen-ftreet, in Cheap ward, owed its name, as did the church n entioned in the above ar- ticle, to St. Pancras, a young Phrygian nobleman, who differed martyrdom under the emperor Dioclefian, for his ftrict adherence to the Ch iftian religion. This church, which was a rectory, and one of the peculiars in this city belonging to the archbifhop of Canterbury, was deftroyed by the fire of London ; and not being re- built, the parifh was, by act of parliament, annexed to the church of St Mary ie Bow in Cheapfide. Plighgate, a large and populous village in Middlefex, a little above four miles north of London, is fo called from its high fituation on the top of a hill, and a gate erected there above four hundred years ago, to receive toll for the bifhop of London ; upon an old miry road from Gray's Inn lane to Barnet, being turned through that bifhop's park. The church, which is a very old edifice, is a chapel of eafe to Pancras and Hornfey; and where it ftands was formerly an hermitage, near which the lord chief baron Cholmondelev built and en- dowed a free ichool in 1562, which was enlarged in the year 1570 by Edwin Sandys, bifhop of London, and a chapel added to it. There are alfo here feveral diftent- ing mee ing-houfes. On the fide next London, the finenefs of the profpect over the city, as far as Shooter's- hill, and below Greenwich, has occafioned feveral hand- fome edifices to be built; particularly a very fine houfe erected by the late Sir William Afhurft. Hampffead, a pleafant village, fituated near the top of a hill about four miles on the north-weft fide of Lon- don. On the fummit of this hill is a heath, which is adorned with many gentlemen's houfes, and extends about a mile every way, affording a moft extenfive and delightful profpect over the city as far as Shooter's-hill, and into the counties all around it. This village ufed to be formerly reforted to for its mineral waters, and there is here a fine affembly-room for dancing. Its old ruinous church, which was a chapel belonging to the lord of the manor, has been lately pulled down, and a new one is juft erected in its room. There is befides a handfome chapel near the wells, built by the contribu- tion of the inhabitants, who are chiefly citizens and merchants of London ; and alfo a meeting-houfe. Brentford, a market-town fituated ten miles front London, received its name from a brook called Brent, which runs through the weft part of the town, called Old Brentford, into the Thames. As it is a great tho- roughfare to the weft, it has a confiderable trade, par- ticularly in corn, both by land and the Thames. The church and market-houfe ftand in that part of the town called New Brentford. It has alfo two charity-fchools j though the church is only a chapel to Great Eling. That part of it called Old Brentford is fituated upon a fine riling bank clofe to the Thames, and is naturally capable of being made as beautiful a fpot as any thing I < i «f 214 MIDDLESEX. of the kind. The oppofite fide of the river is Kew Green, which appears from hence to advantage. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and annual fairs on the feventeenth, eighteenth, and nineteenth of May ; and the twelfth, thirteenth, fourteenth, and fif- teenth of September, for horfes, black cattle, and hogs. On the right hand of the road, between Tumham- green and Brentford, is Gunnerfbury Houfe, a noble and elegant ftructure built by Inigo Jones, or, as fome fay, by Mr. Web, who was fon-in-law to Inigo Jones. Indeed the architecture {hews, that if the plan was not drawn by that celebrated architect himfelf, it was de- figned by fome of his fcholars ; for the building has that majeftic boldnefs and fimplicity which grace all the works of that excellent artift. It is fituated on a rifing ground ; the approach to it from the garden is remark- ably fine. The loggia has a beautiful appearance at a diftance, and commands a fine profpect of the county of Surry, the river of Thames, and of all the meadows on its banks for fome miles, and in clear weather, of even the city of London. The apartments are extremely convenient and well contrived. The hall, which is large and fpacious, is on each fide fupported by rows of columns, and from thence you afcend, by a noble flight of flairs, to a fa- loon, which is a double cube of twenty-five feet high, and moft elegantly furnifhed. This fine room has an entrance into the portico on the back front, which is fupported by columns, and fiomthe finenefs of the pro- fpect over the Thames, is a delightful place to fit in, during the afternoon in the fummer feafon ; for it being contrived to face the fouth-eaft, the fun never fhines on it after two o'clock ; but extending its beams over the country, enlivens the beautiful landfcape that lies be- fore this part of the edifice. On entering the garden from the houfe, you afcend a noble terrace, which af- fords a delightful view of the neighbouring country; and from this terrace, which extends the whole breadth of the garden, you defcend by a beautiful flight of fteps, with a grand baluftrade on each fide. But the gardens are laid out too plain, having the walls in view on every fide. This was the houfe of the late Henry FurneiTe, Efq; who had a fine collection of pictures. It is now in the pofleflion of the princefs Amelia. Uxbridge, a town in the road from London to Ox- ford, from the firft of which it is diftant eighteen miles and a half. Though it is entirely independent, and is governed by two bailifts, two conftables, and four head- boroughs, it is only a hamlet to Great Hillington. The river Coin runs through it in two ftreams, full of trout, eels, and other fifli ; and over the main ftream is a ftone bridge that leads into Buckinghamshire. The church, or rather chapel, was built in the reign of Henry VI. This town has many good inns, and is particularly di- ftinguifhed by the whitenefs of the bread, particularly their rolls. There are many corn-mills at a fmall dif- tance, and a confiderable number of waggon loads of meal are carried from thence every week to London. Uxbridge gives the title of earl to the noble family of Paget. Here is a market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, viz. the thirty-firft of July, and the tenth of October, for horfes, cows, and fheep. Stains, a populous town fituated on the Thames, nineteen miles from London. It obtained its name from the Saxon word Stana, or ftone, becaufe there an- ciently ftood a boundary ftone in this place, to denote the extent of the city of London's jurifdiction upon the river. It has a bridge over the Thames, and is go- verned by two conftables, and four htadboroughs ap- pointed by his majefty's fteward, on account of its being a lordfhip belonging to the crown. The church ftands tfione, at almoft half a mile diftance from the town. Here is a market on Friday, and two annual fairs, viz. the eleventh of May, for horfes and black cattle ; and the twenty-ninth of September, for horfes, black cattle, and fheep. Harrow on the Hill is fituated fifteen miles north-weft from London, on the higheft hill in the county, on the fumrr.ii? of which ftands the church, which has a very high fpire. This parifh is famous for 3 free-fchool, founded by Mr. John Lyons in the reign of queen Eli- zabeth ; and every fourth of Auguft, a felect number of the fcholars, drelled in the habit of archers, come with their bows, and fhootat a mark for a filver arrow. Hounflow, a village twelve miles north of London, on the edge of the heath of the fame name. , which is equally famous for horfe-races and robberies. There are here a chapel and a charity-fchool. The village belongs to two parifhes, the north fide of the ftreet to Hefton, and the ibuth to' Ifleworth. In this place was formerly a convent of mendicant friars, who by their inftitution were to beg alms for the ranfom of captives taken by the infidels. On its diffolution by king Henry Vlll. that prince gave it to the lord Windfor, and it was afterwards purchafed by Mr. Auditor Roan. There is no weekly market at Hounflow, but two annual fairs, viz. Trinity Monday, and the Monday after Michaelrnas-day, for horfes, cows, and fheep. Edgeware, a town twelve miles from London, in the road to St. Alban's, Watford, and Harrow on the Hill, is fituated on the very edge of the county of Middlefex. The old Roman way, called Watling Street, panes by here from London. The late duke of Chandos built near this town one of the moft noble feats in England, which he adorned and furnifhed at fuch vaft expence, that it had fcarce its equal in the kingdom. The. great faloon or hall was painted by Paolucci, and the plaiftering and gilding of the houfe was done by the famous Italian Pergotti. The columns fupporting the buildings were all of marble : the grandftair-cafe was extremely fine"; the fteps were marble, and every ftep was one whole piece twenty-two feet in length. The avenue was fpacious and majeftic ; and as it af- forded the view, of two fronts, joined as it were in one, the diftance not permitting you to fee the angle that was in the centre, fo you were agreeably dtceived into the opinion, that the front of the houfe was twice as large as it really was. And yet, on approaching nearer, you were again furprized, by perceiving a winding paffage opening, as it were, a new front to the eye of near an hundred and twenty feet wide, which you imagined not to have feen before. , The gardens were well defigned, and the canals large and noble. The chapel was a fingularity, both in its building and the beauty of the workmanfhip ; and the late duke maintained there atone time a full choir, and had divine worfhip performed with the beft mufic, after the manner of the chapel royal. But all this grandeur was foon at an end. The furniture and curiofities were brought to public auction, and this fuperb edifice quits demolifhed. The land whereon this ftructure was erected, was lately purchafed by Mr. Hallet, an eminent cabinet- maker, who acquired a large fortune in that bulinefs, and he has built an elegant fmall houfe upon the ruins of the duke of Chandos's large and magnificent feat. Here is a market on ThurfJay, and a yearly fair on the fourth of May, for horfes and cows. Twickenham, a pleafant village, fituated on the Thames between Teddington and Ifleworth, and be- tween two brooks that here fall into that river. The church, which is a modern edifice, rebuilt by the con- tribution of the inhabitants, is a fine Doric ftructure. Here is a charity r fchool for fifty boys, who are cloathed and taught ; and this delightful village is adorned with • the feats of feveral perfonsof diftindfion, particularly oa the bank of the river. To begin at the upper end; there is an elegant Gothic feat called Strawberry Hill, belong- ing to the Hon. Mr. Walpole ; then, a beautiful houfe, late the earl of Radnor's, now in the poffeflion of v Mr. Hindley. The next of confiderable note is Sir William Stanhope's, formerly the refidence of our moft cele- brated poet Mr. Alexander Pope ; then Mrs. Backwell's ; and the laft on this beautiful bank is Dr. Battie's, at prefent in the pofleflion of Mr. Paulet. All thefe houfes, befides feveral others on this delightful bank, enjoy a moft pleafing profpect both up and down the river, per- petually enlivened with the weft country navigation, an J M I D D and other moving pictures on the furface of this en- chanting river. Then below the church, you have the fine feat of Mr. Whitchurch, that of the earl of Straf- ford, Mrs. Pitt; and at the entrance into the meadows, the elegant ftructure called Marble Hall, belonging to the countefs of Suffolk. Still further down the ftream, you have the fmall but very pretty houfe of Mr. Bar- low ; the larger and more grand one of Mr. Cambridge ; and the fweet retirement called Twickenham Park, the refidence of the countefs of Montrath. This brings you down to Ifleworth, which, from the entrance into the meadows at lady Suffolk's, is about a mile and a half on the bank of the river, oppolite to Ham-walks and Richmond-hill, and is one of the moft beautiful walks in England. Endfield, a market-town near eleven miles from Lon- don. Almoft in the center of Endfield Chace, are the ruins of an old houfe, faid to have belonged to the earls of Effex. Here is a fine lodge for the ranger, and the fkirts of the chace abound with handfome country houfes belonging to the citizens of London. When king James I. refided at Theobalds, this chace was well Hocked with deer, and all forts of game j but in the civil wars it was ftripped both of the game and timber, and even let out in farms : however, after the reftoration, it was again laid open, woods were planted, and the whole chace afrefh flocked with deer. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-fifth of May, and the twenty- ninth of November, for horfes, cows, and cheefe. Tottenham High-crofs, a village on the weft fide of the river Lee, five miles north-eaft from London in the road to Ware. David king of Scotland being pofteffed of this manor, after it had belonged to the earls of Nor- thumberland and Chefter, gave it to the monaftery of the Trinity in London ; but Henry VIII. granted it to 'William lord Howard of Effingham, who being after- wards attainted, it reverted again to the king, who then granted it to the dean and chapter of St. Paul's, to whom it ftill belongs. The prefent earl of Northumberland and the lord Colerain have feats here, and there are alfo a great number of pretty houfes belonging to the citizens of London. The church ftands on a hill, which has a little river called the Mofel at the bottom, to the weft, north and eaft. The parifh is divided into four wards, viz. j. Nether ward, in which ftands the parfonage and vicarage. 2. Middle ward, comprehending Church-end and Marfh- ftreet. 3. High Crofs ward, containing the hall, the mill, Page-green, and the High-crofs. And 4. Wood Green ward, which comprehends all the reft of the pa- rifh, and is bigger than the three other wards put to- gether. The crofs, which gives name to the place, was once much higher than it is at prefent, and upon that fpot queen Eleanor's corpfe was refted, when on the road from Lincolnfhire to London. St. Loy's well, in this parifh, is faid to be always full, and never to run over ; and the people report many ftrange cures performed at Bifhop's Well. In 1596, an alms-houfe was founded here by one Zancher, a Spaniard, the firft confectioner ever known in this kingdom; Here are alio a free- fchool, and a charity-fchool for twenty-two girls, who are cloathed and taught. Bow, a village a little to the eaft of Mile-end, alfo called Stratford le Bow ; is named Bow, from the ftone arches of its bridge built over the river Lee, by Maud, the wife of Henry I. Its church, built by Henry II. was a chapel of eafe to Stepney, but was lately made parochial. This village is inhabited by many whitfters and fcarlet dyers, and here has lately been fet up a large manu- factory of porcelain, which is brought to fuch perfection as to be very little inferior to that of China. Here is an annual fair held on the Thurfday, Friday, and Saturday, in Whitfun-week, for toys. Bromley, a pleafant village near Bow, where was formerly a monaftery. The great houfe here was built by Sir John Jacob, Bart, commiffioner of the cuftoms at the reftoration, and afterwards became the feat of Sir L E S E X. 215 William Benfon, fheriff of London in the reign of queen Anne, the father to William Benfon, Efq; auditor of the Impreft, who fome years ago fold it, with the manor and rectory, to Mr. Lloyd, a gentleman of Wales. Acton, the name of two villages about fix miles from London, in the Oxford road, noted for the medicinal wells in their neighbourhood, which were formerly much frequented during the fummer months, but now very few vifit them. Eling, the name of two villages, diftinguifhed by the epithets Great and Little, fituated between Brentford and the Oxford road. Great Eling lies to the eaft of the other, and has a work-houfe and a charity-fchool, with a pretty church, in the tower of which are eight mufical bells, and is the mother church of that of Old Brentford. Fulham, a village fituated on the banks of the Thames, four miles from London. The Danes encamped here in. 879, and the place was held of the king by the canons of St. Paul's in the time of William the Conqueror* Tis now only remarkable for feveral gentlemen's feats, befides a palace of the bifhop of London, who ufed it in fummer ; and for a wooden bridge over the Thames to Putney, where not only horfes and carriages, but foot paffengers alfo pay toll. Ecclefiajllcal ANTIQUITIES in Middlefex. As we found it would be impoflible to defcribe every place in this populous county that has been remarkable from fome religious ftructure, in the limits we are con- fined to, we determined to menti >n the ecclefiaftical an- tiquities in an article by themfelves, rather than omit them entirely, which we muft otherwife have done. In St. Martin's le Grand, not far from Newgate, in this city, there was a college, which, according to fome writers, was founded about the year 677, by the Britifh king Cadwallein, or by fome Britons, in memory of that king : but there is greater reafon to believe, that this college was founded in the year 700, by Vidtred, or Wythred, king of Kent, and rebuilt, and chiefly en- dowed, by two Saxon noblemen, Ingelricus, and his brother Girard, about the year 1056. This foundation was confirmed by William the Conqueror in 1068, and the church of the college made a royal free chapel, with feveral privileges annexed to it. The adjoining precinct was ordained a fanctuary, and exempted from ecclefi- aftical and civil jurifdiition. Here was a dean and feve- ral fecular canons, till the college, and all the lands belonging to it, were given, by king Henry VII. to the abbot and convent of Weftminfter, in 1502. Sir Jordan Bri fet gave fourteen acres of land in Clerk- enwell, to one Robert, his chaplain, for building a re- ligious houfe on it, for nuns or Grey monks, upon which there was a priory founded for Benedictine nuns, about the year nco, and dedicated to God and the af- fumption of the Virgin Mary. This nunnery was va- lued, upon the diffolution, at two hundred and fixty-tvvo pounds nineteen fhillings a year. Near Weft Smithfteid, the fame Sir Jordan Brifet, about the year noo, erected an houfe or hofpital for the Knights Hofpitalers of St. John of Jerufalem, the lord prior of which had precedence of all the lay barons in parliament, and chief power over all the preceptories, or fmaller houfes of this order, throughout England. On a fpot of ground within Ald^ate, where one Syred had formerly begun to build a church, dedicated to the Holy Crofs and St. Mary Magdalen, queen Maud, in 1 108, founded 3 monaftery for canons regular of the order of St. Auitin. This houfe was dedicated to the Trinity, and was fo rich, that it furpaffed all the priories in London and Middlclex. It was furrendered the twenty-third of Henry VIII. but the valuation is not recorded. At St. Giles's, in the fuburbs of London, there was an hofpital for a' matter and feveral leprous perfons, founded by queen Maud, the mafterfhip of which was, in the twenty-feventh year of Edward I. granted to the monaftery of Burton Lazars, in LeicefterfKire, and continued 216 M I D D continued fubcrdinafe to that monaftery till the time of the diflblution. Raherus, v/ho founded St. Bartholomew's hofpital in London, began, in the year 1123, on the eaft fide of Weft Smitbri. Id, a church or monaftery for black ca- nons, which was finilhcd in 1 133, and dedicated to St. Bartholomew. The revenues of this monaftery were valued, upon the diflblution, at fix hundred and fifty- three pounds fifteen millings per annum. In Haliwell Fields, on the weft fide of Bifhopfgat?- ftreet, without the gate, Robert Fitz-Gciran, canon of St. Paul'n cathedral, before the year 1140, built a priory, which was dedicated to St. John Baptift, and valued, upon the difiblution, at two hundred and ninety- four pounds per annum. The order of the brethren of the temple of Solomon at Jerufalem, commonly called Templars, or Knights of the Temple, having feveral manors and eftates in moft counties of England, did, about the beginning of the reign of king Stephen, fettle in a houfe near Hol- born Bars, called the Old Temple, which then became the chief houfe of their order in this kingdom. In that building they continued till the year 1185, when a more commodious habitation was creeled for them in the place now called the Temple ; and here they flou- rifhed under the government of a mafter, who was head of all the preceptories and houfes of the order in Eng- land, till they were fupprefled all over Europe, about the year 1312 ; upon which the Temple, with the greateft part of their other eftates, was granted to the Knights Hofpitalers of St. John of Jerufalem, who leafed it to the ftudents of the common law, in whole poileffion it ftill continues. On the north fide of Cheapfide, in the city of Lon- don, Thomas Fitz- Theobald, and Agnes, his wife, filler to Thomas Becket, archbifhop of Canterbury, about the end of the reign of king Henry II. founded an hofpital, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and to the fame archbifhop Becket, who was canonized as a faint and a martyr. It was built upon the fite of houfes formerly belonging to Gilbert Becket, father of the archbifhop ; and here the archbifhop was born. This hofpital, part of which is now Mercer's Chapel, was called the Hofpital of St. Thomas of Aeon, or Acres ; and confifted of a mafter and feveral brethren, of the order of St. Auftin, but of a particular feet of that order, which, about this time, was inftituted in the Holy Land, and denominated Militia Hofpitalis S. Tbo- ma Martyr is Cantuarienf.s de Acon y being a branch of the Templars. The revenues of this hofpital, upon the difiblution, were valued at two hundred and feventy- feven pounds thirteen (hillings and four-pence per annum. Henry de Northampton, canon of St. Paul's cathe- dral, founded an hofpital, within the precincts of that church, before the year ] 100. In Spitalfields, Walter Brune, and Rofeia, his wife, about the year 1197, founded an hofpital of the order of St. Auftin. Jt was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and valued, upon the general diflblution, at four hundred and feventy-eight pounds, fix (hillings and fix-pence per annum. On London Bridge there was anciently a chapel, founded by a mafon, dedicated to St. Thomas the Mar- tyr, and endowed for two priefts and four clerks. In a court called St. Hellen's, on the eaft fide of Bifhopfgate-ftreet, there was a priory of Benedictine monks, founded by William Fitz-William, a gold- fmith, about the year 1210, and dedicated to the Holy Crofs and St. Hellen. The revenues of this priory, before the difiblution, were valued at three hundred and fourteen pounds, two (hillings and fix-pence per annum. The Black Friars coming; into England about the year 1221, obtained an habitation near Holborn, on the weft fide of Chancery Lane, in or near the place where Lincoln's-Inn now ftands. Here they lived about fifty- five years, and then obtained fome ground in Caftle Baynard ward, in the city, now called Black Friars, where, by the help of king Edward I. and his queen, Robert Kilwardby, archbifhop of Canterbury, and other benefactors, they built a handfome church and L £ S E X. convent ; and at the fuppreflicnj had yearly revenues fd the amount of one hundred and four pounds, fifteen (hillings and four-pence. The Grey Friars coining to England in 1224, John Travers, one of the fherifFs of London, built a houfe for them in Cornhill, which proving too fmall, John Ewin, mercer, gave them fome ground, which is now the fite of Chrift's Hofpital, near Newgate, and here they creeled a priory, in which they continued till the difiblution'. On the north fide of Threadneedle-ftreet, in I23r, there was a fynagogue of the Jews, which K. Henry III. gave to the brethren of St. Antony of Vienna, in France, who converted it into an hofpital, confiding of a mafter, two priefts, a fchool-mafter, and twelve poor brethren, befides proctors and other officers and fervants. The revenues of this hofpital were valued, upon the fup- preffion, at fifty-five pounds fix (hillings and eight-pence a year. In Chancery Lane, in Farringdon Ward without, king Henry III. founded an hofpital about the year 1231, for the inftruclion and maintenance of all fuch Jews as fhould be converted to the Chriftian faith. This houfe was under the government of a mafter, and two or three chaplains, and had a church, dedicated to the Virgin- Mary, which is now the chapel of the Rolls. In a place ftill cr.lled White Friars, on the fouth fide of Fleet-ftreet, between the Temple and Salisbury Court, the Carmelite or White Friars had an houfe and a church, built about the year 1241, by Sir Richard Gray, knight, and endowed, upon the diflolution, with yearly revenues valued at fixty-three pounds eleven (hil- lings and four-pence. Simon Fitz-Mary, alderman, and fherifF of London, in the year 1247, upon the fite of Bethlehem Hofpital, founded a priory or hofpital, for a prior, canons, bre- thren and fifters, of the order of Bethlehem, or the Star, in which the bifhop of Bethlehem, in Judea, was to be entertained whenever he came into England ; and to the vifitation and correction of the bifhop of Bethlehem, all the members of this houfe were fubjecled. On the north fide of Broad-ftreet, near Bethlehem Hofpital, in a place ftill called Auftin Friars, Humphrey Bohun, earl of Hereford and Eflex, in 1253, founded a priory for Friars H remites of the order of St. Au- guftine, which, upon the diflblution, had yearly reve- nues valued at fifty-feven pounds and four-pence. The Friars of the Sack, fo called from fackcloth, the habit of the order, came to London in the year 1257, and fettled firft on the outfide of Alderfgate ; but king Henry III. in the year 1272, the fifty-fixth year of his reign, gave them a Jewifh fynagogue, on the fouth fide of Lothbury, not far from the priory of the Auftin Friars, where they continued till their order was diflblved in the council of Lyons in 1307. In the time of Edward I. an hofpital of the French order was founded in Whitecrofs-ftreet, not far from Bethlehem Hofpital, and dedicated to St. Giles ; but it was diflblved by king Henry V. and given, with its pofieflions, to a friary of St. Giles. In the time of Edward I. there was an hermitage or chape], dedicated to St. James, and called St. James's Chapel on the Wall, from its fituation near London Wall, at the north corner of Monfcfwell-fireet, which ftreet took its name from a well in it, belonging to the monks of this chapel. The chapel of St. James was in pofleflion of the abbot and convent of Gerondon, in Leicefterfhire, who kept two Ciftertian monks of their houfe in it. Blanch, queen of Navarre, wife to Edmund earl of Lancafter, having encouraged fome poor ladies of the order of St. Clare or Minorifles, to come to England, her hufhand, Edmund, in 1293, built an abbey for them on the eaft fide of the ftreet now called the Minories, without the city walls. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. Thomas, and had annual revenues, which, upon the fuppreffion, were rated at three hun- dred and eleven pounds fifteen fnillings and a penny. A houfe of friars of the Holy Crofs was founded in the parilh of St. Olave, Hart-ftreet, near Tower-Hill, sn MIDDLESEX. 217 in a place ftill called Crutched Friars, about the year 1298, by Ralph Holier and William Saberns, and was endowed at the diflblution with fifty -two pounds thirteen {hillings and four-pence/>*r annum. On the lite of the college now called Sion College, William Elfing, citizen and mercer, in 1329, founded a college for a warden, four fecular priefts, and two clerks, together with an hofpital for the lodging of one hundred old, hlind, and poor perfons of both fexes ; blind, paralytic, and difabled priefts, to be preferred ; but in 1340, he changed the feculars of this college into five regular canons of the order of St. Auftin. This houfe jvas dedicated to St. Mary, and endowed upon the fuppreflion with one hundred and ninety-three pounds fifteen fhillings and five- pence per annum. Sir John Foultney, who had been feveral times lord mayor of London, in the year 1332, founded in Can- non-ftreet a college, confifting of a mafter or warden, thirteen priefts, and four chorifters, dedicated to Jefus ;md Corpus Chrifti. The income of this college was ra"ted, upon the fuppreffion, at feventy-nine pounds ieventeen fhillings and eleven-pence per annum. It is faid that there were three hofpitals, one near St. Andrew's church in Holborn, another in a ftreet on the outfide of Alderfgate, and a third near Cripplegate, all alien priories, and cells to the houfe of Cluny in France, but fupprefled by king Henry V. among the other alien priories. In the church -yard of Trinity-church, on the eaft fide of the Tower cf London, king Edward III. in the year 1349, founded a Ciftertian abbey, which was made a royal free chapel, and was poflefled, upon the diflb- lution, of yearly revenues valued at five hundred and fortv-lix pounds and ten-pence. Near the church of St. Martin Vintry, in Vintry ward, there were thirteen alms-houfes, erected in 1357 by Sir John Stodie, lord mayor of London. In a royal free chapel, dedicated to St. Peter, within the Tower of London, king Edward III. erected a col- lege, in which he fettled four chaplains, under the go- vernment of a rector. On the fite where theCharterhoufe hofpital andfehool now ftand, Sir Walter de Manny, a knight of the garter, in 1361 founded a priory for twenty-four Car- thufian monks, who were poflefled of revenues valued, upon the fuppreflion, at fix hundred and forty-two pounds and four- pence per annu?n. This priory was called the Salutation of the Mother of God. In a chapel dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen and All Saints, near Guildhall, Adam Francis and Henry Frowick, in 1368, founded a college, confifting of a warden, feven priefts, three cFrks, and four chorifters, with revenues valued on the fuppreflion at only twelve pounds eighteen (hillings and nine-pence per annum. In 1380, William Walworth, lord mayor of Lon- don, who flew the rebel Wat Tyler, founded a college in the church of St. Michael, Crooked Lane, for a mafter and nine priefts. Twelve minor canons, belonging to the cathedral church of St. Paul, were incorporated in the eighteenth year of king Richard II. and made a body politic, with a warden and common feal. Mr. Roger Holme, chancellor of the cathedral of St. Paul, before the year 1395, founded a college, con- fifting of feven priefts, in a certain chapel fituated near the north door of this cathedral, and dedicated it to the Holy Ghoft. A building called Lancafter College, in the parifh of St. Gregory, near the cathedral of St. Paul, was granted the fecond year of Edward VI. to William Gunter, and is fuppofed to be the lodgings and common hall of the Chantry priefts, eftablifhed by king Henry IV. and by the executors of John of Gaunt, duke of Lancafter, in a chapel on the north fide of the choir of St. Paul's. Oh rhe eaft fide of the quadrangle of Leadenhall, in the city of London, William Roufe, Jchn Rifby, and Thomas Afhby, priefts, in 1466, founded a fraternity of fixty priefts, befides other brethren and filters. In the church of St. Michael Royal, in Vintry ward, Sir Richard Whitingdon, feveral times lord mayor of 2r London, before the year 1424, founded a college, de- dicated to the Holy Gholt and the Virgin Mary, for a mafter and four fellows, befides clerks and chorifters ; and alfo on the eaft fide of the college, he founded an hofpital for thirteen poor people, the chief of whom was called tutor. The revenues of this college were valued, upon the fuppreflion, at no more than twenty pounds one fhilling and eight-pence ptir annum. Near Grocer's Hall, in a ftreet called the Poultry, about the year 1429, feven alms-houfes were built for the relief of fo many poor aged brethren of the Grocer company. In 1430, William Oliver, William Barneby, and John Stafford, chauntry priefts in London, founded an hofpital near the church of St. Auguftine in the Wall, for poor impotent priefts and brethren of the Papey. It belonged to the fraternity of St. Charity and St. John the Evancelift. King Richard III. having rebuilt the chapel of our Lady, within the church of All-hallows, Barking, near the Tower of London, founded a college in it, confifting of fecular priefts. There was a college of priefts, called Jefus Commons, in Dowgate ward, near Skinners Hall. Adjoining to the eaft fide of Crutched Friars churchy near the Tower of London, fourteen alms-houfes were founded in 1521, by Sir John Milborn, lord mayor of London. The collegiate church of St. Peter, Weftminfter, is faid to have been firft built about the year 610, by Se- bert, king of the Eaft Saxons, on the ruins of a Roman temple dedicated to Apollo ; but being deftroyed in the Danifh wars, it was rebuilt by king Edgar in 958, when twelve monks were placed in it, who were but meanly provided for, till king Edward the Canfeflbr, in 1049, began to rebuild the church and abbey, which he finifhed and endowed before the year 1066, from which time it continued in the hands of monks of the order of St. Benedict, till the general diflblution, when its pof- feflions were valued at three thoufand and thirty-three pounds feventeen fhillings per annum. King Henry VIII. in the thirty-fecond year of his reign, erected here a bifhop's fee, and converted the abbey church into a cathedral, with a dean and twelve prebendaries. The bifhoprick was however fupprefled in the year 1550, but the chapter continued. In 1556, king Philip and queen Mary reftored the abbot and monks ; but in 1560, the abbey was a fecond time fupprefled, and the church made collegiate, as it ftill remains, with a dean and twelve fecular preben- daries, together with petty canons and other members of the choir, to the number of thirty, befides two fchool- mafters, forty king's fcholars, twelve alms-men, and many officers and feryants. On the fite of St. James's palace, fome citizens of London, before the Conqueft, founded an hofpital for the reception and maintenance of fourteen reprous wo- men, to whom were afterwards added eight brethren, to^perform divine fervice. This houfe w;is dedicated to St. James, and rebuilt in the time of king Henry III. It was under the government of a mafter, till king Henry VI. granted the perpetual cuftody of it to Eton College. At the diflblution, it was valued at one hundred pounds per annum. William Marefchal, earl of Pembroke, in the-time of king Henry III. founded an hofpital or chapel near Northumberland-houfe in the Strand. This hofpital was dedicated to St. Mary, and was a cell to the priory of Rouncival, in the diocefe of Pampelon in Navarre. It is faid to have been fupprefled among the alien priories in the time of Henry V. and to have been reftored the fifteenth year of Edward IV. The friars of the order of St. Mary de Areno had a houfe in the Strand, which was built for them by Wil- liam de Arnaud, in the fifty-firft year of Henry III. and here they continued after the fuppreflioni. of the minor mendicant orders in 1 307, till the death of Hugh de Ebor, the laft friar of this order, in the tenth year of Edward II. Kkk It iit M I D D L It has been already obferved, that the Houfeof Com- mons, in the city of Weftminfter, was originally a cha- pel, built by king Stephen, and dedicated to the faint of that name. It was made collegiate by king Eward III. for a dean, twelve feCular canons, thirteen vicars, four clerks, fix chorifters, and other officers and fervants, who were endowed with revenues, valued, upon the fupprelTion, at one thoufand and eighty-five pounds, ten fhillings and five-pence per annum. Within the Alrnery of the abbey, over againft the old chapel of St. Anne, the lady Margaret, mother to king Henry VII. erected an alms-houfe for poor women, which is now converted into lodgings for the finging men of the college. About the year 1505, king Henry VII. founded an hofpital in the Savoy, for a mafter, four chaplains, and one hundred poor people. It was dedicated to Jcfus, the Virgin Mary, and St. John the Baptift ; and valued, upon the fupprefiion, at five hundred and twenty-nine pounds five fhillings and feven-pence per annnm. Some writers mention an houfe for lunatics in the parifh of St. Martin's in the Fields, near the old village of Chafing. At Bermondfey, near the borough of Southwark, Aylwin Child, a citizen of London, about the year 1082, founded a church, dedicated to Jefus Chrift, to- gether with a convent of monks of the Cluniac order, who were procured from the priory deCaritate-in Fiance. This convent was made denizen in 1380, erected into an abbey in 1399, and endowed, before the diflolution, with a yearly income of four hundred and feventy-four pounds fourteen millings and four-pence. The chu ch of St. Saviour, in the borough of South- wark, was founded long before the Conqueff, as a houfc cf filters, by a maiden lady named Mary, who endowed the priory with the profits of a ferry crofs the Thames ; but the priory was afterwards converted, by a noble lady named Swithen, into a college of priefts, who, inftead of the ferry, erected a timber bridge; a ftone bridge was afterwards built at the fame place, and is now called London bridge. In 1106, this priory was again founded for canons regular, by William Pont de le Arch, and William Dauncy, knights-; and was va- lued, upon the fupprefiion, at fix hundred and twenty- four pounds fix fhillings and fix-pence per annum. At Bermondfey there was an hofpital dedicated to our Saviour, not long after the death of archbifhop Thomas Becket, for Agnes his fifter, and Theobald his nephew, were benefactors td it. In 1213, Richard, prior of Bermondfey, built an alms-houfe or hofpital, adjoining to the wall of his mo- . naftery, dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, for converts and poor boys. Near the borough of Southwark, there was, in the time of Edward II. an hofpital for leprous perfons, de- dicated to St. Leonard. At Stratford le Bow, or Bromley, near London, in the county ofMiddlefex, a Benedictine nunnery, dedi- cated to St. Leonard, , was founded by William bifhop of London, in the reign of William the Conqueror. At the general diffolution, here were a priorefs. and nine nuns, whofe yearly revenues were one hundred and eight pounds one fhilling and eleven-pence. At Riflip, near Uxbridge, in this county, Ernulph de Heding, in the time of William the Conqueror, or William Rufus, founded a priory fubordinate to the abbey of Bee in Normandy, but afterwards- fubject to the convent of Okeburn in Wiltfhire. At Kilborn, a village north-weft of London, Here- bert, abbot, and Ofbert de Clara, prior of Weftminfter, about the end of the reign of king Henry I. founded a nunnery, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and St. John the Baptift. It was of the Benedictine order, and fub- ordinate to the abbey at Weftminfter, and had revenues valued, upon the fupprefiion, at feventy-four pounds feven fhillings and eleven-pence per annum. The lady Joan, relict of Sir Robert Gray, knight, gave the manor of Hampton to the Hofpitalers ; and here feems to have been a houfe for fome filters of that order before the year x 1 80. E S E X. At Hounfiow, a village fouth-weft of Brentford, there was a priory before the year 1274, confifting of a mafter, chaplains, and brethren, or a prior and Convent of friars, of the order of the Holy Trinity, for the re- demption of captives. This 'priory Was endowed, at the diilolution, with feventy-four pounds eight fhillings and one penny per annum. At Sion, near Brentford, king Henry V. in the yeaf 141 4, founded a monaftery of the order of St. Auguftine, which confifted of fixty nuns or fitters, one of whom was the lady abbefs, thirteen priefts, one of whom prcfided over the men by the name of Confeffor, four deacons, and eight lay brethren. It was dedicated to Jefus Chrift, the Virgin Mary, and St. Bridget;* and was endowed, upon the fupprefiion, with yearly reve- nues valued at one thoufand feven hundred and thirty- one pounds, eight fhillings and four-pence. In a chapel at the weft end of Sion abbey, John So- merfet, chancellor of the exchequer, and king's chap- lain, in the twenty-fifth year of Henry VI. founded a friary, hofpital, or fraternity of the nine orders of An* gels, confifting of a mafter and feveral brethren, who, at the diffolution, had forty pounds per annum. Upon the top of a hill at Highgate, 3 village about four miles north of London, there was an ancient her-*' mitage ; and one William Pool, yeoman of the crown, founded an hofpital below the hill in the reign of Ed- ward IV. Remarks on the Husbandry of Middlefex. The land in this county, for fome miles round Lon- don, may be confidered as one continued garden, in- terfperfed with meadows and paftures, very little corn being fown in the neighbourhood of the capital. The quantity of manure fupplied by the extenfivc cities of London and Weftminfter, enables the farmers to keep their grafs-lands extremely rich, by which amazing crops of hay are produced. At a diftance from London, their courfe of crops in general is, r. fallow ; 2. wheat; 3. oats, or peafe ; 4. clover and rye-grafs. Confi- derable quantities of lucern are planted in various parts of the county, and generally to great advantage.. Po- tatoes and turnips are alfo cultivated in moft parts of the county. They plough three times for wheat, fow two bufhels, and reckon in fome parts five or fix quar- ters a middling crop ; but in others, three or four. Sometimes they fow beans, for which they give but one ftirring ; fow two bufhels, hoe twice, and reap four quarters on a medium. For oats, they plough b'.'t once, fow four bufhels, and reckon three quarters the me- dium. They plough twice or thrice for peafe ; fow two bufhels, hoe them once or twice, and reckon four quarters their mean crop. For turnips they ftir four times, and make the foil fine like that of a garden ; hoe them twice ; and, in the neighbourhood of the capital, fend great quantities to market, and ufe the reft in feeding all kinds of cattle. They generally drive four horfes in a line to each plough, whether the foil be light or heavy ; turnip or bean land ; and turn up an acre in a day. The grafs land lets from two to three pounds an acre; and arable at thirty fhillings on a medium. The price of labour is, in winter, one fhil- ling and fix-pence a day ; in fummer, from twenty- pence to two fhillings, without beer. Reaping corn, from fix to feven fhillings per acre. Mowing corn, from one fhilling and fix-pence to two fhillings ; and mowing grafs, three fhillings per acre. Curious Plants found in Middlefex. Moon -wort, Lunuria minor, Ger. found on many of the commons, particularly near Acton. Butterfly, or German Satyrion, Orchis hermaphrodi-~ tica, Ger. found in the cane wood near Hampftead. Male Satyrion, Cynoforchis mas, Ger. found in the fields near Iflington. Female Satyrion, Cynofchis maris f&mina, Ger. found in the fame fields with the former. Male MID D L Male Satyricn Royal, Orco'n pabnata non macu'ata, R>iy, found in the meadows on the banks of the Ifnafhes. Wild Valerian, Valeriana fyhefiris, Ger. found in rnoll of the upland pallurcs, and alio in many watery places in this coui.ty. Buckthorn, Rhamus cathartica, J. B. found in the hedges near Uxbiidge. Rough Spleen-wort, Afpera minor, Park, found in the woods near Hampftead-heath. Wild Thyme, Tl.ymus fylveftris, Ger. found in great plenty in moil of the upland pafluies, and on the downs and commons in this couivy. Wood-peaie, or Hcath-peafe, Ajlragalus fylvaticus, Ger. found among the heath near Hampftead, Uxbridge, aad Hounflow. Maiden-hair, Alranthum t found in various places of this county. Afh-coloured ground Liverwort, Lichen terrejlris cl- ncreusy Ray, found on moft of the heath-grounds in Middlefex. Crow-foot, Ranunculus, found in moft of the mea- dows near the Thames. Remains of Antiquity not mentioned In the preceding Account of London, cisV. In Playhoufe-yard, in Whitecrofs-ftreet, are the ruins of a theatre, fuppofed to be the firft that was erected in or near London, though there --vas another perhaps of a date not much later in Barbican. Nor is it to be won- dered at that theatres were formerly built here, when it appears from Bridgew'ater Square in Barbican, Thanet, and Shaftefbury-houfes, in Alderfgate-ftreet, that this part of the town was the refidence of the court and no- bility. In the parifh of St. Saviour, in the borough of South- wark, is an inn called the Talbot Inn ; and on the main beam of a room in this inn is an infeription, im- porting, that Sir Jeffrey Chaucer, and twenty-nine pilgrims, lay here in the year 1383, on their journey to Canterbury. This inn was much frequented an- ciently by the nobility and gentry ; and though the fign is now the picture of a dog called a Talbot, yet the original fign was the reprefentation of a coat without fleeves, fuch as is worn by the heralds at arms, and called a Tabard. By the fame corruption, the Poll, or Head, which was the ancient fign of a barber's fhop, is converted into a painted Stick, or Pole, and the Belle Savage into a Bell and Naked Man. On the bank-fide, near Winchefter-houfe, there were formerly eighteen houfes, called the Stews, licenfed by the bifhop of Winchefter, with the fanclion of an acl: of parliament, for keeping public whores, under certain E S E X. 219 regulations, who were commonly called Winchefter Geefe* NearV?uxhall are ftill to be fcen the remains of a baftion and lines, caft up by the Romans, which, in the civil wars under king Charles I. were repaired for the fecurity of London. Near Bermondfey-ftreet, in the parifh o\f St. Marv Magdalen, Bermondfey, are the remains of a Romaa fort, as plain, almoft, as when it was firft dernolifned. Sun Tavern Fields, in the parifh of Shadwell, were alfoaRoman coemctery, where, in 1615, coffins, urns, Roman coins, and other remains of antiquity, were dug up. Here was found a lead coffin, inclofed in a ftone one* containing the body of a woman, with a Cupid, cut in Rone, upon her breaft, an ivory fceptre in each hand, a large urn at her head, and another at her feet. Here were alfo feveral fmall urns, and a great number of glafs veffels, full of white liquor* In the parifh of Iflington, almoft contiguous to Lon- don, is a field, called the Rcedmoat, and alfo Six Acre Fieid, from the contents cf it, which appears to have been an ancient fortrefs, inclofed with a rampart and ditch ; and from its form, and the manner of th« fortifi- cations, is fuppofed to have been the Roman camp oc- cupied by Suetonius Paulinus, after his retreat from London. Out of this camp, it is thought, he fallied upon the Britons, under the conduct of their queen, Boadicea, when he totally rodted them. In the fouth- weft angle of the field, is a fquare partition, or divifion, commonly called Jack Straw's Caitle, which is fuppofed to have been the Roman general's praetorium, or tent. Near Uxbridge are the remains of an ancient camp, which is fuppofed to be Britifh. AtSheparton, upon the banks of the Thames, fouth- eaft of Stanes, is a piece ofi inclofed ground, called Wa'rre Clofe, in which fpurs, fwords, human bones, and other remains of antiquity, have been dug up ; and on the weft of Wane Clole, part of a Roman camp is ftill vifible. Near King's Arbour, north-eaft of Stanes, is a Ro- man camp, confuting of a fingle work, and not large ; and at about the diftance of a mile from this, is another Roman camp. Members of Parliament for this County. Middlefex fends eight members to parliament, two knights of the fhire for the county, four reprefentatives for the city of London, and two for the city of Weft- minfter. The borough of Southwark alfo fends two members ; but thefe, though the Borough is one of the divifions of London, are reckoned among the reprefen- tatives for the county of Surry. 5 U R & Y, t 1 S U R. THE county of Surry is bounded on the north by the Thames, which feparates it from Middlefex; on the fouth by SufTex ; on the eaft by Kent ; and on the weft by Berkftiire and Hampfhire. Its form is nearly that of a long fquare or parallelogram, extending thirty-four miles in length from eaft to weft, and twen- ty-one in breadth from north to fouth. It is about one hundred and twelve miles in circumference, containing in that fpace feven hundred and thirty-five fquare miles, or about five hundred and ninety-two thoufand acres ; thirteen hundreds, one hundred and forty parifhes, eleven market-towns, thirty-five vicarages, five hundred and fifty villages and hamlets, and about one hundred and feventy-one thoufand inhabitants. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of Winchefter. RIVERS. This county is watered by the Thames, the Mole, the Wey, and the Wandle. The Thames will be defcribed in our account of Berkftiire, and other counties through which it flows. The tide of this famous river runs up confiderably above Richmond, a celebrated village in Surry, twelve miles from London, and about fixty from the fea, which is a greater diftance than the tide flows up any other river in Europe. The Mole rifes near Okely, fouth-weft of Darking ; and running eaftward for feveral miles, along the bor- ders of SufTex, forms an angle, and, directs its courfe north-weft, in which direction it continues its eourfe to the foot of Box-hill, where the ftream difappears by little and little at different places called the Swallows, probably from the water being fwallowed up by thefe fubterranean aqueducts. From this circumftance the river itfelf is alfo called the Swallow ; and it appears to have derived the name Mole from working its way un- der ground, it being the general opinion, that from the bottom of Box-hill, where it is fwallowed up, it works a paflage for more than two miles, to Letherhead, where it is fuppofed to fpring up anew; and from whence it continues its courfe northward till it falls into the Thames, over-againft Hampton Court, in the county of Middlefex. Later writers, however, are perfuaded, that the waters of the Mole are totally loft at the Swallows ; and that the ftream which rifes at Letherhead, flows from a different fpring, and is con- fequently a new river ; though, from a belief of its be- ing the fame, it has obtained the fame name. The Wey rifes in the neighbourhood of Alton, a market-town of Hampfhire ; and directing its courfe eaftward, enters the county of Surry at Farnham ; where forming an angle, it runs by Godalming and Guilford, the county town : from thence it continues its courfe to Woking, where turning to the north-eaft, it empties itfelf, by a double mouth, into the river Thames, about a mile from Chertfey. The Wandle, or Vandal, rifes at Carfhalton, near Croydon ; and running north with a fmall but clear ftream, falls into the river Thames at Wandfworth, about four miles from London. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Surry. The only piece of inland navigation in this county, except that of the Thames, is the river Wey, which is now navigable to Godalming, and its navigation of the greateft benefit to the fouth-eaft parts of Surry, by fup- plying the inhabitants with coals and other neceflaries from London. This navigation might be eafily ex- tended to Farnham, a very confiderable market-town R Y„ on the borders of Surry, and confequently increafe the advantages the county already reaps from tiiis ftream. The navigation of this river formerly terminated at Guilford, from whence it has lately been extended to Godalming, and it is hoped will be farther continued, at a time when inland navigation fo greatly engages the national attention. Air, Soil, and natural Productions. The air and foil are vaftly different in the middle and extreme parts of this county. Towards the borders of Surry, elpecially on the north fide near the Thames, and on the fouth fide in and near a vale called Holmf- dale, ftretching for feveral miles from Darking to the county of Kent, the air is mild and healthy, and the foil fruitful in corn and hay, with a fine mixture of woods and fields ; but in the heart of the county, the air is bleak ; and though there are fome delightful fpots, the tract confifts chiefly o£ open and fandy ground, and barren heaths. In fome places there are long ridges of hills or downs, which afford nothing but warrens for for rabbets and hares, and parks for deer. Hence the county has been compared to a coarfe piece of cloth bordered with a fine and broad lift. The air of Cot- man Dean, near Darking, has been reputed the beft in England. It is obferved, that the inhabitants of the middle parts of Surry are generally of a pale complexion, refembling the natives of Picardy in France ; and that even the cattle in that diftrict are of a lighter colour than ufual in other parts of England, which is attri- buted to the air and foil. Surry produces great quantities of box-wood and walnut-tree ; the meadows prodigious crops of excel- lent hay, and the arable lands very fine corn ; while the downs, particularly thofe of Banftead, which ftretch thirty miles in length, from Croydon to Farnham, be- ing covered with a fhort fweet herbage, interfperfed with thyme and other aromatic herbs, feed large flocks. | of fheep, the mutton of which, though fmall, is re- markably fweet. Near Rygate is a very plentiful vein of fuller's earth, which is fent to various parts of the kingdom. With regard to the hops produced in the neighbourhood of Farnham, we have mentioned them in our account of Hampfhire. Remarks on the Husbandry of Surry. In the neighbourhood of Guilford, there is much bad land, and the downs are poor. They fow a good deal of faint-foin, which is a great improvement, for it yields two loads, and fometimes two loads and a half per acre. Between that place and Ripley, the foil is fomething better, and lets in general from ten to fifteen fhillings per acre. The courfe is, i. fallow; 2. wheat; 3. barley; 4. clover; 5. wheat; 6. beans, peafe, or oats. This courfe is however obferved only where the foil is in good order j if it runs foul, they favour it more. They plough three or four times for wheat, fow two bufhels and a half on an acre, and reckon three quarters a middling crop. For barley they plough only once in their light lands, but twice in thofe which are heavier ; fow three or four bufhels, and four quarters is the mean produce. For oats they plough but once, fow four or five bufhels, and reap, at a medium, four or five quarters. When beans are the crop, they alfo plough but once, and dibble in three bufhels to an acre ; hoe them always once, and, if foul, twice. For peafe one earth they think fufflcient ; fow three bufhels, gene- rally in drills fourteen or fifteen inches afunder, with a fmall plough made on purpofe ; always hoe them once, generally s u R R Y. generally twice, and have ufually, on a medium, four quarters to an acre. They fow a great many turnips, plough twice or thrice for them, hoe them twice, and ge- neral!' feed them off with fheep. Sometimes they feed their ftalled bullocks with them, in which cafe they reckon that an acre of good turnips will be fufficient for fattening two beafts of a middling fize. They ufe both horfes and oxen in their tillage; drive fourhorfe? to a plough, and fometimes more ; and four, fix, and eight oxen ; and in their light lands turn up an acre and a half a day ; bnt in ftiffer foils, only an acre. The oxen are reckoned the moft profitable, but ten horfes to one ox are kept for hufbandry in this county. The price of labour in winter is one fhilling and two- pence a day ; in fpring, one fhilling and four-pence; in harveft, two fhillings, and two fhillings and fix-pence. Reaping wheat, from five to nine fhillings an acre. Mowing corn, from one fhilling and two-pence to one fhilling and fix-pence. Mowing grafs, two fhillings, and two fhillings and fix-pence. Hoeing turnips, five fhillings ; a fecond time, four fhillings. Hoeing beans or peafe, three and four fhillings. Ploughing, five or fix fliii lings an acre. From Cobham almoft to Weftminfter-bridge, the foil is fandy, and naturally poor ; but near London, greatly enriched with manure. The crops are, however, generally very good about Efher and Kingfton, but there is nothing particular in the hufbandry. Their courfe of crops is, i. fallow; 2. wheat; 3. fpring-corn, or clover. The price of labour in winter is one fhilling and four-pence a day ; in fpring, two fhillings ; in har- veft, two fhillings and fix-pence, with beer. Boroughs, Market Towks, £sV. We entered Surry from Middlefex over Kcw Bridge, in order to view the elegant palace and gardens belong- ing to her royal highnefs the princefs dowager of Wales. The town of Kew is fituated on the fouthern bank of the Thames, oppofite Old Brentford ; and has a chapel of eafe, erected at the expence of the nobility and gentry, many of whom have elegant feats in the neighbourhood. In the year 1758, an act was pafled for building a bridge acrofs the Thames oppofite to Kew-green ; and this act has for fome time been carried into execution, a bridge of eleven arches having been erected acrofs the river. The two pers, and their dependent arches on each fidf* aext the fhore, are built of brick and ftone ; •the intermediate arches, which are feven in number, are of wood. The fpan of the centre arch is fifty feet, and the width of the road over the bridge thirty. The palace is a very elegant edifice, the apartments noble, and finely furnifhed ; but the gardens are remark- able for their beauty. The great pagoda is the grandeft edifice of this kind in England : it is erected on a bafe, which is a regular octagon, forty-nine feet in diameter. The fuperflructure is alio a regular octagon, and confiffs of ten prifms, which form the ten ftories of the build- ing ; the loweft of thefe ftories is twenty-fix feet in diameter, excluiive of the porticoes which furround it, and eighteen feet high : the fecond is twenty-five feet diameter, and feventeen feet high ; the reft diminifh in diameter and height, in the fame arithmetical propor- tion, to the ninth ftory, which is eighteen feet in dia- meter, and ten feet high; the tenth ftory is feventeen feet in diameter, and, with the covering, twenty feet high ; the finifhing at top is feventeen feet high ; fo that the height of the whole ftructure, from the bafe to the fleuron, is one hundred and fixty-three feet. Each ftory finifhes with a projecting roof after the Chinefe manner, and is covered with plates of varnifhed iron of different colours; each is alfo furrounded with a gallery enclofed with a rail ; all the angles of the roofs are adorned with large dragons, being eighty in number, and covered with a kind of thin glafs of various colours, Which produces a fplendid reflection. The whole orna- ment at the top is double gilt ; the fubftance of the walls is hnid brick ; the outfide well matched grey-ftocks neatly laid, and v/ith fuch care, that there is not the Jeaft crack in the whole ftructure. The ftair-cafe is in 22 the centre ; the profpects open as you advance in height; and from the top the view commands forty miles over a rich and variegated country. Here is a very beautiful orangery, with feveral temples, &C. in the antique tafte, particularly the temple of Eolus and Bellona, together with the houfe Of Con- fucius, a mofque, &c. In the middle Of the garden is a beautiful lake, covered with an amazing number of different forts of birds. But what will principally en- gage the attention of the lovers of mechanics in thefe elegant gardens, is a curious engine for raifing water to fupply the above lake. It is the Archimedean fcrew, turned by horfes. It was erected by the ingenious Mr. Smeaton in the year 1761. This engine fupplies the lake and bafons in the gardens with water; raifing, by the afliftance of two horfes, upwards of three thoufand fix hundred hogfheads of water in twelve hours. Richmond, a village twelve miles from London Th is is reckoned the fineft village in the Britifh domi- nions, and has therefore been termed the Frefcati of England. It was anciently the feat of our monarchs, and the palace, from its fplendour, was called Shene, which in the Saxon tongue fignifies bright or fhinino-. Here king Edward III. died of grief for the lofs of Wis heroic fon Edward the Black Prince; and here died Anne, the wife of Richard II. who firft taught the Eng- lish women the ufe of the fide-faddl*, for before her time they ufed to ride aftride. Richard, however, was fo afflicted at her death, that it gave him fuch a diflike to the place where it happened, that he defaced the fine palace; but it was repaired and beautified afrefh by king Henry V. who alfo founded near it three religious houfes-t In the year 1497, this palace was deftroyed by fire, when king Henry VII. was there; but in 1501, that prince caufed it to be new built, and commanded that the vil- lage fhould be called Richmond, he having borne the title of earl of Richmond before he obtained the crown by the defeat and death of Richard III. Henry VIL died here ; and here alfo his grand-daughter, queen Eli- zabeth, breathed her laft. On the ground where for- merly flood a part of the old palace, the earl of Choi- mondeley has a feat, as has alfo Mr. Wray. The prefent palace, which is finely fituated, is a very plain edifice, built by the duke of Ormond, who re- ceived a grant of a confiderable fpace of land about Richmond, from king William III. as a reward for his military fervices ; but it devolved to the crown on that duke's attainder, in the beginning of the reign of king George I. and this houfe was by his prefent majefty confirmed to the late queen Caroline, in cafe fhe became queen dowager of England. His majefty took great delight here, and made feveral improvements in the palace, while her majefty amufed herfelf at her royal dairy-houfe, Merlin's cave, the Her- mitage, and the other improvements which ihc made in the park and gardens of this delightful retreat. Though the palace is unfuitable to the dignity of at- king of England, the gardens are extremely fine, with- out offering a violence to nature ; and Pope's advice with refpect to planting, may be confidered as a very accurate defcription of the beauties to be found here. To build, to plant, whatever you intend, To rear the column, or the arch to bend ; To fwell the terrace, or to fink the grot, In all let Nature never be forgot : Confult the genius of the place in all, That tells the waters or to rife or fall j Or helps th' ambitious hill the heav'ns to fcale. Or fcoops in circling theatres the vale; Calls in the country, catches op'riing glades, Joins willing woods, and varies fhades from (hade's ; Now breaks, or now directs th' intending lines ; Paints as you plant, and as you work, defigns. In fhort, almoft every thing here has an agreeable wildnefs, and apleafing irregularity, that cannot fail to charm all who are in love with nature, and afford a. much higher and more lafting fatisfaction than the ftiff decorations of art, where the artift lofes fight of nature, which alone ought to direct his hand. L 1 b Qn 121 Surry. On entering thefe rural walks, you are conduced to the dairy, a neat but low brick building, to which there is an afcent by a flight of fteps ; in the front is a rundfome angular pediment. The walls on the infide arc covered with llucco, and the houfe is furnifhed iui'ably to a royal dairy, the utenfils for the milk being of the molt beautiful china. Paffing by the fide of a canal, and through a grove of trees, the temple prefents itfelf to view, fituated on a mount. It is a circular dome crowned with a ball, and fupported by Tufcan columns, with a circular altar in the middle, and to this temple there is an afcent by very ftcep flopes. Returning by the dairy, and croffing the gravel walk, which leads from the palace to the river, you come to a wood, which you enter by a walk terminated by the queen's pavilion, a neat elegant ftructure, wherein is feen a beautiful chimney-piece, taken from a defign in the addition to Palladio, and a model of a palace in- tended to be built in this place. In another part of the wood is the Duke's fummer- houfe, which has a lofty arched entrance, and the roof rifino to a point, is terminated by a ball. On leaving the wood, you come to the fummcr-houfe on the terrace, a light fmall building with very large and lofty windo v.: , to give a better view of the country, and particularly of tb*t noble feat called Sion houfe. In this edifice are i ..• good pictures, reprefenting the taking of Vigo by the duke of Ormond. Piifiing through a labyrinth, you fee, near a pond, Merlin's cave, a Gothic building thatched ; within which are the following figures in wax, Merlin, an an- cient Britifh enchanter ; the excellent and learned queen Elizabeth, and a queen of the Amazons. Here is alfo a library,- confiding of a well chofen collection of the works of modern authors, neatly bound in vellunu On leaving this edifice, which has an antique and venerable appearance, you come to a large oval of above five hundred feet in diameter, called the Foreft oval ; and turning from hence, you have a view of the Her- mitage, a grotefque building, which feems as if it had Hood many hundred years, though it was built by order of her late majefty. It has three arched doors, and the middle part, which projects forward, is adorned with a kind of ruinous angular pediment : the ftones of the whole edifice appear as if rudely laid together, and the venerable look of the whole is improved by the thicknefs of the folemn grove behind, and the little turret on the top v/ith a bell, to which you may afcend by a winding walk. The infide is in the form of an octagon with niches, in which are the buffs of the following truly great men, who by their writings were an honour not only to their country, but to human nature. The firft on the right hand is the incomparable Sir Ifaac Newton, and next to him the juftly celebrated Mr. John Locke. The firft on the left hand is Mr. Woolafton, the author of The Religion of Nature difplayed ; next to him is the reverend and learned Dr. Samuel Clarke, and in a kind of alcove is the truly honourable Mr. Robert Boyle. ■Leaving this feat of contemplation, vou pafs through fields cloathed with grafs ; through corn fields, and a wild ground interfperfed with broom and furze, which afford excellent flicker for hares and pheafants, and here there are great numbers of the latter very tame. From this pleafing variety, in which nature appears in all her forms of cultivation and barren wildnefs, yon come to an amphitheatre formed by young elms, and a diagonal wilderr.efs, through which you pafs to the fo- reft walk, which extends about half a mile, and then paffing through a fmall wildernefs, you leave the gardens. At the extremity of the garden on the north-eaft, is another houfe that belonged to her majefty, and near it the houfe of his late royal highnefs Frederick prince of Wales, which is on the infide adorned with ftucco. Oppofite the prince's houfe is the princefs Amelia's, built by a Dutch architect, the outfide of which is painted. To the weft of the gardens are feen the fine houfes of fevcral of the nobility and gentry, particularly the lady Buckworth's, and Mr. Geoffrey's; and extending thr view acrofs the Thames, there appears Ifleworth. But to return to the village of Richmond. The Green is extremely pleafant, it being levelled and inclofed in a handfome manner ; it is alfo furrounded with lofty elm:, and adorned on each fide with the houfes of per- fons of diftinction. A fun-dial is here affixed in a pretty tafte, encompaffed with feats : this, and the railing in of the Green, were at the fole charge of her late majefty. Among the pretty feats on this fpacious Green, is a handfome edifice that formerly belonged to Sir Charles Hedges, and fince to Sir Matthew Decker, in the gar- dens of which is faid to be the longeft and higheft hedge of holly that was ever feen, with feveral other hedges of evergreens ; there are here alfo viftas cut through woods, grottos, fountains^ a fine canal, a decoy, fummer-houfe and ftove-houfes, in which the anana, or pine-apple, was firft brought to maturity in this kingdom. On the north-eaft fide of the Green is a fine houfe, v/hich belonged to the late Mr. Heydigger, and a little beyond it, that of the duke of Cumberland : paffing by which, you come to a fmall park belonging to his ma- jefty, well ftocked with deer ; and oppofite to it is the entrance into the gardens. The town runs up the hill above a mile from the village of Eaft Shene, to the New Park, with the royal gardens Hoping all the way towards the Thames, whole tide reaches to this village, though it is fixty miles from the fea ; which is a greater diftance than the tide is car- ried by any other river in Europe. On the afcent of the hill are wells of a purging ml-* neral water, frequented during the fummer by a great deal of good company. On the top there is a molt ex- tenfive and beautiful profpect of the country, interfperfed with villages and inclofuresj the Thames is feen run- ning beneath, and the landfcape is improved by the many fine feats that are fcattered along its banks. There is here an alms-houfe built by Dr. Duppa, bifhop of Winchefter in the reign of king Charles II. for the fupport of ten poor widows, purfuant to a vow made by that prelate during that prince's exile. There is another alms-houfe, endowed with above one hun- dred pounds a year, which, fince its foundation, has been confiderably increafed by John Mitchell, Efq. Here are alfo two charity-fchools, one fo^ fifty boys, and the other for fifty girls. . New Park, in Surry, is fituated between Kingfton and Richmond, This is one of the beft park: in Eng- land ; it was made in the reign of king Charles I. and • inclofed with a brick wall, faid to be eleven miles in compafs. In this park there is a little hill caft up, called King Henry's Mount, from which is a profpect of fix counties, with a diftant view of the city of London, and of Wind for Caltle. The new lodge in this park, built by the late Sir Ro- bert Walpole, earl of Orford, is a very elegant edifice. It is built of ftone in a fquare form, with wings on each fide of brick. It ftands on a rifinsr ground, and com- mands a very good profpect of the park, efpecially of that fine piece of water which is in it, and which might be enlarged and brought acrofs the vifta which is in the front of the houfe, through a wood. This park is the largeft of any within the environs of London, except that of Windfor, and the fineft too ; for though it has little more than a wild variety of natural beauties to fhew, yet thefe are fuch as cannot fail to pleafe thofe who are as much delighted with views in their rudeft appearance, as in all the elegance of art and defign. Having viewed every thing curious at Richmond, we palled along the bank of the Thames to Peterfham, a village near the New Park, and a little to the fouth of Richmond Hill. Here once flood a delightful feat built by the earl of Rochester, lord high treafurer in the reign of king James II. This fine houfe was burnt down in the year 1720, in fo fudden a manner, that the family, who were then all at home, had fcarcely time to fave their lives. Nor was the houfe, though furnifhed in the moft exquifite manner, both within and without, the greateft lofs fuftained : the noble furniture, the curious collection of paintings, and the ineftimable library of the S U R R Y. the firft earl of Clarendon, lord high chancellor of Eng- land, and author of the Hiftory of the Rebellion, were wholly confumed ; and, among other valuable pieces, feveral manufcripts relating to thofe times, and to the transactions in which the king his matter, and himfelf, were engaged both at home and abroad : befides other curious collections made by that noble author in foreign countries. On the ground where once this noble houfe flood, the earl of Harrington erected another feat after a defign of the carl of Burlington. The front next the court is very plain, and the entrance to the houfe not very ex- traordinary : but the fouth front next the garden is bold and regular, and the apartments on that fide, chiefly defigned for ftate, are extremely elegant. The gardens were before crowded with plantations rear the houfe, but are now laid open in lawns of grafs. The kitchen garden, before fituated on the eaft fide of the houfe, is removed out of fight, and the ground con- verted to an open flope of grafs, leading up to a terrace of great length, from which is a profpect of the river Thames, the town of Twickenham, and of all the fine feats in that part of the country. On the other fide-of the terrace is a plantation on a rifing ground ; and on the fummit of the hill a fine pleafure-houfe, which on every fide commands a profpect of the country for many miles. . From this delightful village we continued our tour to Kingfton upon Thames. The profpects on each fide are truly admirable, and perhaps can hardly be equalled. The villages are fo full of beautiful buildings, charming gardens, and delightful retreats, that it is impofiible to view thefe countries from a rifing ground, and not be ravifhed with the enchanting fcene. Kingfton upon Thames is fo called from its having beon the refidence of feveral of our Saxon kings, foirte of whom were crowned on a ftage erected in the mar- ket-place. It is a populous and well built place, twelve miles from London, and in the reigns of Edward IT. and III. fent members to parliament. The church is fupcious, and decorated with the pictures of the Saxon kin^s who were crowned here; together with that of 'tens John, who gave the inhabitants their firft charter. Here is alfo a wooqen bridge of twenty arches over the Thames; a frce-fchool erected and endowed by queen Elizabeth ; and a charity-i'chool for thirty boys, who 2re all cloathed. The fummer affizes for the county of Surry are generally held here; and on the top of the hall is a gallery, which overlooks the town. A houfe near tins town, now called Hircomb's Place, was once the feat of the famous ear of Warwick, ftiled the Setter up and the Puller down of Kings. Befides the bridge already mentioned, here is another of brick over a ftream that flows from a fpring about four miles above the town, and which, . within the diftance of a bow-fhot from its fource, forms a brook fufficient to drive two mills. The market in this town is very confiderable for corn, and the trr.de tc London, &c. pretty large. Here is a market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, viz. Thurfday, Friday, and Saturday, in Whitfun- v/eck„.for horfes and toys ; the fecond, third, and fourth of Auguft, for fruit and pedlars ware ; and the fifteenth of November, for horfes, cattle, and toys. From Kingfton we patted on to Weybridge, a village about four miles fouth-weft of Hampton Court, and Wtueh owes its name to a bridge formerly erected here over the river Weye. In the neighbourhood of this village are feveral fine feats, particularly thofe of the earls of Portmore and Lincoln. The latter is called Oatlands : the other, which is known by the name of Ham Farm, is a very hand fome ftructure, regularly built of brick, with a fine lawn before the garden front. The grounds about it cenfift of about five hundred acres, one hundred and thirty of which are laid out for plcafurc, befides a paddock of about fixty acres. This delightful fiat has the command of two navigable rivers, the Thames, which comes v/ith a fine bending courfe by the fide of the terrace ; and the Weye, which runs directly through the grounds, and joins the Thames at the terrace. There is a [wing bridge over the Weye, which may be turned afide at pleafurc, to let boats and other veflels pafs. The Weye is navigable up to Guil- ford, and thence is now extended to Godalmin. What is called the Virginia water, runs from Windfor great park, and flows a little higher up through the grounds of the late Mr. Southcote. The terrace next the Thames is remarkably beautiful ; and though it lies on a flat, there are fome good views from it, as well- as from fome other parts of the garden. Leaving the delightful profpects of Ham Farm, wc crofted the country, in order to vifit Claremont, the feat of the late duke of Newcaftle at Efher, now belonging to lord Clive. The houfe was defigned and built by the late Sir John Vanbrugh, in a whimfical ftyle of architecture. It was afterwards purchafed of Sir John, by his Grace, who has been at great expence in im- proving the place. The ftructure, though fingular, does not appear to be irregular. It is built of brick, with a good deal of variety in it, and of confiderable extent, but not much elevated. The duke has fince built a grand room for the reception of company, when numerous, which makes the ends of the houfe not ap- pear fimilar. The houfe has a lawn in the front, fhaded on each fide with trees, and the ground behind it rifing gradually, fhews the trees there alfo, fo that the houfe appears to be embowered by them, except juft in the front; and the white fummer-houfe, with four little pinnacles, one at each corner, built on the mount which gives name to the place, when viewed from before the front of the houfe, rifes up finely from behind the trees, and altogether forms a very pleafing appearance. The park in which it is fituated is diftinguifhed by its noble woods, lawns, walks, mounts, profpects, &c. The fummer-houfe, called the Belvedere, at about a mile's diftance from the houfe, on that fide of the park next Efher, affords a very beautiful and extenfive view of the country quite round ; yet that from the fummer-houfe at Efher-place, which is juft by, is perhaps noway in- ferior to it. Near this feat is Efher-place, once the feat of the late Henry Pelham, Efq; The houfe is a Gothic ftructure, built of a brownifh red brick, with ftone facings to the doors, windows, Sec. It ftands upon almoft the lov/eft ground belonging to it, and has the river Mole gliding clofe by it, and through the grounds. This houfe was originally one of thofe built by Cardinal Wolfey; but the late Mr. Pelham rebuilt the whole, except the two towers in the body of the boufe, which are the fame that belonged to the old building ; and the whole is rebuilt in the fame ftile of architecture it was before^ which uniformity is certainly better than an unnatural mixture of Gothic and modern too often practifed. There is a fine fummer-houfe built upon a hill on the left hand as you enter, which commands the view of the houfe, park, and country round on both fides of the Thames for many miles. The park or ground in which the houfe is fituated, appears quite plain and unadorned ; yet perhaps not a little art has been ufed to give it this natural and fimple appearance, which is certainly very pleafing. But in one part of it there is a pretty wilder- nefs laid out in walks, and planted with a variety of ever-green trees and plants, with a grotto in it, and feats in different places. The wood in the park is well difpofed, and confifts of fine oak, elm, and other trees; and the whole country round appears finely fhaded with wood. The grand floor of the houfe is elegantly finifhedj and cortfifts of fix rooms. The great parlour is carved and gilt in a tafte fuitable to the ftile of the houfe, with curious marble chimney-pieces and flabs. In this room are the portraits of Mr. Pelham, Sir Robert Walpole, afterwards earl of Orford, lord Townfhend,. duke of Rutland, the late duke of Devonfhire, and the late duke of Grafton ; a picture of lady Catharine Pelham and her fon is over the chimney. In the drawing-room, over the chimney, there is a picture of king Charles IK when only eleven years old, by Vandyke. The library is curioufly finifhed, and there is a good collection of books in it. Some fay it was at this houfe Cardinal Wolfey was firft feized by order of Henry VIII. on " - his 224 S U R his refufing to annul h!s marriage with queen Catharine, that he might marry Ann Boleyn, and which refulal biought on his fall. The next place that engaged our attention was an handfome houfe belonging to general Conway at Byfleet, in the neighbourhood of Cobham j near which the late reverend and ingenious Mr. Spence made neat improve- ments to a fmall place, which fhew what can be per- formed at a little expence, by a man of tafte and genius. The river Mole, which rifes near Darking, paffes along by the fide of this park, and in its courfe ferpen- tizes about in fo beautiful a manner, that you frequently lofe the fight of it; and, by its windings, makes the courfe almoft four miles within the compafs of this in- clofure. Indeed this river is very narrow, and in dry weather the current is exceeding flow, and the water not well coloured, which, it mult be allowed, takes oft' from its beauty ; yet there is room for great improve- ments, by Hoping oft' the banks, fo as to have a better view of the water ; and in many places, by taking away fome of the little projections of the banks, it may be widened, fo as to appear confiderable at fome diftance; which, if done, will add much to the beauty of the place. Near Cobham is alfo the houfe of Mr. Bridges, which is built in a very fingular tafte, fomething after the model of an Italian villa, but very plain on the outfide. The apartments within feem very commodious, and the principal rooms are elegantly fitted up, the ceiling being gilt, and all the members are richly ornamented : the offices below are very convenient, and judicioufly con- trived to anfwer the purpofes for which they were de- figned. But what chiefly ftrikes the beholder's eye, is a falfe ftory contrived on each fide of the houfe, taken from the difference in the height of the fide-rooms from thofe principal apartments ; and thefe are converted into long galleries, with a fmall apartment at one end, which affords a communication between them. In the Attic ftory there are very good lodging-rooms, which are well laid together ; fo that for the fize of this houfe, there is hardly any other near London, which has more ufeful and elegant apartments. The fituation of the houfe is on an eminence, fo that it commands the profpedt of the adjacent fields, which are kept in very exact order ; and there is a declivity from the houfe to the river Mole, which panes along by the fide of this gentleman's garden ; and here it appears much more confiderable than in any other part of its courfe, for Mr. Bridges has taken away fo much of,, the earth of the banks, as to make the river, in fome places, four or five times broader than it was naturally, fo that at prefent it makes an handfome appearance. By. the fide of the water he has difpofed the earth into a natural flope, with a broad grafs walk, planted with fweet flirubs on each fide; and at the end of the walk is a fine room, which has a view of the water lengthwife, and is a delightful retreat in hot weather, being fhaded by large elm trees on the fouth fide, and haying the water on the north and eaft fides, which render it at once pleafingly cool and delightfully pleafant. This houfe is fituated about a mile from the road to Portfmouth, and fo much hid by the trees near it, as not to be feen till the fpectator rifes on the heath beyond Cobham, where, in feveral parts of the road between that and Ripley, are fine views of it. In this neighbourhood is alfa the elegant feat, and ornamented park of Hamilton, Efq; the latter of which is exceeded by few in England. Palling from the houfe, and a few winding fhrub- beries, which are parted from the park by net-work, and in which the Green-houfe is fituated, we were con- dueled through the park to another inclofed plantation, which has an agreeable walk, commanding a pretty valley, through a winding row of fir-trees, and at the fummit of a bank, which is planted with vines, the produce of which, laft vintage, was three half hogfheads of wine. This walk leads to the Gothic temple, an open building, which looks immediately upon a large piece of water, with a handfome bridge thrown over an R Y, arm of it. As the temple is upon a riling ground, *&ha looks down upori the water, the beauty of the fcene is greatly increafed, In point of lightnt-fs, few buildings exceed this this temple. From thence we wind through a frefh walk, near another part of the water, crofs a bridge, formed, to appearance, of rocks and foflils ; and turning down to the right, find that this bridge is the covering of a molt beautiful grotto, as well as the water; for immediately under it is a'large incruftation of foffils, and fpar hanging every where like icicles from the ceiling, has a molt pleafing effect. On each fide the water is a fmall path, parted from the ftream by marine foffils : nothing can have a more elegant effect than the ceiling of this grotto, (in which is ftuck, with great tafte, a profufion of fpar) hanging over the water, as if of a kindred, but congealed nature. From this grotto the walk leads, on the fide of the water, to a ruined arch, in a juft tafte: the telfelated pavement, the mofaie'd ceiling, and the baftb and alto relievos, which are let into the wall, are all in an exceeding good tafte, in decay; the fymptoms of which are excellently imitated, with weeds growing from the ruined parts, and all the other marks of antiquity. Through the arch, the river appears winding in a prpper manner ; that is, dark and gloomy, around a rough piece of grafs, which has a confiftent appearance. But what hurt us very much, v/as the contradiction of emotions railed by the fcene behind, which was totally different from that of the ruin; elegant and agreeable, a fmooth water, and Hoping banks, clofely fhaven, with a little ifland in it, are all agreeable objecls, and by no means affect the fpectator in unifon with the ruin of Grecian architecture, and the gloomy objects around. The cafcade, which is the next object that appears, is, though trifling, in a very juft tafte. The water gufhes in five or fix ftreams, out of tufts of weeds growing in the rock ; over it bends the trunk of an old oak, from fide to fide, which his an exceeding good effect ; and the trees rifing to a great height above all, finifh the fcene very completely. This cafcade is fed by awheel, which lifts the water from the river, which falling in the cafcade, keeps up the lake already men- tioned. From hence we proceeded through a piece of wild ground, over-run with brakes and rubbifh, through a fcoop or hollow, bounded by high firs on each fide; and in which the tower (another ornamental building) appears with a very pleafing effect, to other darker walks, quite clofed, which lead to the hermitage. We entered into a fmall room, nearly dark ; and on the opening of a door out of it, into the hermit's parlour, (another room) the windows at once prefent a very beautiful fcene; for you look immediately down upon the river, winding round fome cultivated fields, with a very good profpect bounding the whole. But the river is too nar- row, and not feen diftinclly enough : the wood which grows on its banks, and the beaks under the hermitage window, almoft hide it ; nor are the fields overlooked half fo diftinct and beautiful as thofe in fome other parts ; but notwithftanding this comparifon, the view appears exceedingly beautiful : the coming upon it, by fuddenly opening the door between the hermit's rooms, is contrived with theutmoft tafte. The tower is the next building. From it is feen a very fine profpedt ; St. Paul's cathedral and Windfor caftle being two, among many other objects : but the temple of Bacchus, which we came to next, is infinitely beyond it. It confifts of one handfome room elegantly ftucco'd, with a portico of Corinthian pillars, in alight and beautiful tafte. In niches, under the portico, are four copies in plaifter, from celebrated ftatues ; the Venus de Medicis, and Venus with fine haunches, mak^ ing two, and both good. Around the room are antique Roman ftatues, on handfome pedeftals, and in the m ddle a coloflal one of Bacchus. From hence another winding walk leads you out of the park. The village of Cobham itfelf is but fmall, though it has fome good inns, being fituated on the Portfmouth read ; and has two annual fairs, on the feventeenth of March, for toys ; and the eleventh of December, for horfes and fheep. Leaving S U R R Y. Leaving the neighbourhood of Cobham, We faffed to Leatherhead, or Letherhead, a fmall town, fituated about four miles to the fouth-weft of Epfom. It had formerly a market, which has been difcontinued above an hundred years. Here is a bridge over the river Mole, which having funk into the earth near MickJeham, at the foot of Box-hill, rifes again, near this town, and runs through Cobham, to the Thames at Moulfey. *Tis pleafantly fituated on a rifing bank by the fide of the river, and in as good a fituation for riding or hunt- ing as moll within twenty miles of London, it having a fine, open, dry champaign country, almoft all round it. Not' far from Leatherhead is Leith-hill, admired for affbrdirig one of the nobleft profpects in ail Europe, of which Mr. Dennis gives a lively description in his Letters familiar, moral and critical ; we fhall therefore tranferihe his words. " In a late journey (fays he) which I took " into the Wild of SuiTex, I palled over an hill which *' fhev/ed me a more tranfporting fight than ever the " country had fhewn me before, either in England or ** Italy. The profpects which in Italy pleafed me moft, *' were that of the Valdamo from the Apennines ; that " of Rome, and the Mediterranean from the mountains " of Viterbo ; of Rome at forty, and the Mediterranean " at fifty miles diftance from it; and that of the Cam- " pagne of Rome from Tivoli and Frefcati ; from which " two places you fee every foot of that famous Cam- " pagne, even from the bottom of Tivoli and Frefcati •« to the very foot of the mountain of Viterbo, without tc any thing to intercept your fight. But from an hill tc which I palled in my late journey into SuiTex, I had " a profpedt more extenfive than any of thefe, and M which furpaiTed them at once in rural charms, in " pomp, and in magnificence. The hill which I fpeak 5* of, is called Leirh Hill, and is about five miles foutfi- * c ward from Darking, about fix from Box-hill, and " near twelve from Epfom. It juts itfelf out about " two miles beyond that range of hills which terminate *' the north downs to the fouth. When I faw from *' one of thefe hills, at about two miles diftance, that *' fide of Leith Hill which faces the northern downs, " it appeared the beautifulleft profpefi: I had ever feen : *' but after we had conquered the hill itfelf, I faw a " fight that would tranfport a ftoic ; a fight that looked " like enchantment and vifion. Beneath us lay open ** to our view all the wilds of Surry and Sufiex, and a *' great part of that of Kent, admirably diversified in " every part of them with woods, and fields of corn and *' paftures, every where adorned with ftately rows of *' trees. " This beautiful vale is about thirty miles in breadth, " and about fixty in length, and is terminated to the * e fouth by the majeftic range of the fouthern hills, and Woking ftands on the river Wey, twenty miles from London, half way betwixt Guildford and Weybridge, and gives name to its hundred. A neat market-houfe was built here in the year 1665, at the charge of James Zouch, Efq. Its firft fair, which is but a fmall one, was procured by Edmund, duke of Somerfet, from Henry VI. the other from king Charles II. by Mr. Zouch. 'Tis a private country town, out of any great road, fo that 'tis little heard of; but there are the re- mains of the walls of a royal houfe, which was the refi- dence of a branch of the family of Plantagenet, viz. the old ccuntefs of Richmond, mother to Henry VII. Iri the church-yard here it has been remarked, that fo long as there is any thing left of a corpfe, befides bones, a kind of plant grows from it, about the thicknefs of a bulrufh, with a top like the head of afparagus, which comes near the furface, but never above it. The outfide is black, but the infide red, and, when the corpfe is quite confumed, the plant dies away. But the fame obfervation has been made in other church-yards where the foil is a light red fand, as it is in this. Bagftiot, twenty-three miles from London, is famous for its mutton,- though it muft be noted, that the fheep killed by its butchers are generally brought from the downs of Hampfhire. 'Twas formerly called Holy Hull, and the Lordlhip of our Kings, who have a houfe here, with a park, which was laid open after the civiL wars : yet king James and king Charles I. often came to it, becaufe of its convenient fituation for hunting in the neighbourhood. This place is noted for o-ood inns in the road betwixt Stanes and Hartley Row. The church, which is about half a mile from the road, was burnt down by lightning in 1676, but rebuilt by the parifhioners in 1680. Baglhot-heath is a barren defart, with nothing but furze for a great many miles, extend- ing a long way into Berkfhire and Hampfhire; yet by fome inclofures lately made on the edge of it, and others in the centre, which produce good corn and grafs, and plantations of trees, the foil is judged to be capable of improvement, though the whole tract of the country, from Egham to Farnham, for near eighteen miles, looks very much like one of the defarts of Weftphalia. Egham ftands on the Thames, over-againft Stanes, twenty miles from London, and has feveral as good inns as any town on the weft road. Here is a great alms- houfe, built of brick, and endowed by baron Denham, furveyor of the works in the reign of Charles II. for the* maintenance of five poor old women of this parifh, who hays each a different orchard, and were to have, by his will, 123 S U R will, new gowns rvrrv ClrriiTrnns, and backings and fhces twice a ye:.', 1 ut thev were not to receive relief from i he parifh. Sir John DenHam the poet, (fon to the former) who lived at that which is now the parfon- a^e-houl'e, took »rea't delight in Prunewell-hill in this parifh, and alio in Cowper's-hill, the fweet profpecf of which he ha; celebrated in one of the fineft poems that ever appeared in our language. At Rumney-mead, on the north fide of the town, called by our -hiftorians Running-mead, and fomctimes Council-mead, which is now divided into inclofures, king John, frighted with the numerous army of barons who met him there, figned the great charter of the liberties of England, called Magna Charta ; and the land is faid to have been ever fince exempted from tithe, on condition of paying three- pence an acre, and one penny dole. About the year 1706, the fum of fix thoufand pounds was bequeathed to this town, with which, befides feveral alms-houfes, a charity fchool-houfe was built here, and endowed with forty pounds a year for teaching fifty poor boys to read, write, and caft accounts ; and next year, another gen- tleman left fifty pounds a year for ever, to put out five poor boys of the parifh apprentices. Cheitfey, nineteen miles from London, has abridge over the Thames to Shepperton in M'ddlcfex, and its principal trade is in malt, which it fends in barges to London. It gives name to a hundred which has the particular privilege of being exempted from the juris- diction of the high fheriff, who muft direct his writ to the bailiff of it, who is appointed for life by letters pa- tent from the Exchequer. 'Tis noted for the burial- place of Henry VI. whofe bones were afterwards re- moved by Henry VII. to Wind for ; and for the retreat of the celebrated poet Mr. Cowley from court to the excrcifes of a country life, the happinefs of which he has beautifully described in one of his poems ; as he has, in another, the bafe fervility of a court life, and his hearty abhorrence of it, in that well known diftich, W ere I to curfe the man I hate, Attendance and dependence be his fate. Here is a market on Wednefday, and four annual fairs, viz. the fir ft Monday in Lent, for horfes, cattle, and hops ; the fourteenth of May, the fixth of Auguft, and the twenty-fifth of September, for horfes, cattle, and toys. At Cowa^-St kes, near this place, Julius Caefar palled the Thame?. There is a handfome free-fchool here, built by Sir William Perkins. Its market was granted by king James t. Croydon, anciently called Cradiden, is a large, plea- fant, handfome town, ten miles from London, on the edge of Banfted downs, well fupplied with all forts of provifions, and the chief of the hundred to which it gives name. 'Tis faid, that formerly our kings had a palace here, which, with the manor, was given to the archbifhops of Canterbury ; but, fince archbifhop Whit- gift's time, it has been much neglected and decayed ; and that in or about 171 6, the dilapidations of it alone were valued at fourteen hundred pounds, and paid by the late archbifhop Tennifon's executors. Whitgift left an hofpital here, which is a handfome building, in the form of a college, and endowed with farms, for the mainte- nance of a warden, and twenty-eight men and women, poor decayed houfekeepers of this town and Lambeth ; and a fchool for ten boys and ten girls, who are all cloathed and taught, with a houfe for the mafter, (who muft be a clergyman) endowed with twenty pounds a year for his falary. The church, which is the fineft and largeft in the county, ftands by the palace, and has many remarkable monuments in it ; particularly that of Dr. Grindall, whofe effigies lies on his tomb in his epifcopal robes ; a prelate fo ftudious, that his book was called his Bride, and his ftudy his Bridechamber, for he therein fpent his eye-fight, health, and ftrength. Another mo- nument of archbifhop Sheldon, reckoned one of the fineft in England ; and one for Mr. Tyrrel, a grocer of London, who gave two hundred pounds to build its market-houfe, befides forty pounds to beautify the church. Its market is chiefly for oats and oat-meal, for ft i. London, though there is a great fide here, too, of wheat and bailev. The town is encompaficd with hills, well ftored with wood, of which great quantities of charcoal are made, and fent to London. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fifth of July, and the fecond of October, for horfes, bullocks, toys and ihecp. Banfted is a village noted for abundance of walnuts, but more for giving name to its downs, one of the moft delightful foots of the kind in England, not only for its; fine foft carpet ground, and the pretty villages around it, but for its plealant profpect into Kent, Hertfordshire, Bucks, Oxfordshire, even beyond Henley upon Thames, Hampshire, Berkfhire, and Middlefex 3 with a view of the royal palaces of Windfor and Hampton Court; and alfo of London, from the Tower to Weftminfter. Thefe downs ftretch thirty miles in length from Croydon to Farnham, though under different appellations ; and are covered with a fhort herbage, perfumed with thyme and juniper; and therefore their mutton, though fmall, is fweet. The foil, which, in general, is a fort of chalk, mixed with flints and land, is dry foon after rain. There is a four mile courfe on them, for horfe-races, which is much frequented. The numbers of gentlemen and ladies that take the air here, mornings and evenings, in the fine feafon, fome on horieback, and fome in coaches, ranging either fingiy, or in feparate com- panies, over every hill and dale, are a moft entertaining object. Darking is the chief town of its hundred, twenty- four miles from London, noted for its meal trade, and its market for poultry, particularly the fatteft geefe, and the large ft capons, which are brought hither from Hor- fham in Suffex ; where it is the bufinefs of all the country, for many miles, to breed and fatten them. Some are as big as turkey-pouts. Suffex wheat is brought hither from the wilds of that county, and moft market-days it is furnifhed with all forts of fea-fifh. The town was deftroyed by the Danes, but rebuilt by the Normans. It ftands on a rock of foft fandy ftone, in which are dug feveral convenient cellars. According to the cuftom of the manor, of which the Howard fa- mily of the Norfolk branch are lords, the youngeft fon or youngeft brother of a cultomary tenant is heir of the cuftomary eftates of the tenant dying inteftate. Some learned phyficians have faid, the beft air in England is upon Cotiman Dean, (i. e. the heath of poor cottages) belonging to this town, on which ftand their alms- houfes. The great Roman caufeway, called Stone- ftreet, paftes through its church-yard, and is plainly traced two miles to the fouth of Okeley. It appears to be made of flints and pebbles, like thofe in the beeches of Suffex. 'Tis really a prodigious work, being from feven to ten yards broad, and near a yard and a half deep ; which is the more remarkable, for that, in fome places, there is not a flint to be feen within many miles of it; and therefore the common people think the devil had a hand in it. Here is a weekly market on Thurfdays, and one an- nual fair, held on the day before Afcenfion-day, for horfes, bullocks, fheep, and toys. Okeley, above-mentioned, in the fame neighbourhood, is named fo from the plenty of oaks growing on it. Its church-yard is remarkable for rofe-bufhes at the head of many of the graves, from a cuftom here, time out of mind, among the young lovers, that, at their death be- fore marriage, the furvivor plants a rofe-tree at the head of the deceafed's grave, which fome of them are at the expence of keeping up many years ; a practice derived, probably, from the Greeks and Romans, who, according to Anacreon and Ovid, thought rofes planted or ftrewed upon the graves of the dead, perfumed and protected their alhes. There was a caftle here formerly, of which the moat and mole of the keep is ftill remaining, near the church ; and we read, that a bloody battle was fought here between the Saxo 1 k.ng Ethelwolf and the Danes, after their fifth invafion of England. The poor in thefe parts have an art of drawing peel'd rufhes through melted greafe, to lave candle, The S U R The other antiquities and remarkables in this county, not yet mentioned, are, i. The remains of a Roman camp, of about twelve acres, at W alton upon Thames, to which there runs a rampire, with its trench, from St. George's Hill. 2. A military work, of an orbicular form, near Wimbledon, called Benfbury, where Cheaulin king of the Well: Saxons fought and defeated one of the Kentifh generals, in the firft battle of the Saxons among themfelves. 3. Effingham, a fmall village three miles fouth-weft of Leatherhead, was anciently a town of note, and faid to contain fixteen parifh churches ; and 'tis certain, that, in the neighbourhood, the foundations of buildings are often difcovered. 4. Near Aldbury, five miles calt of Guildford, is the platform of a Roman temple, on the edge of Blackheath ; and fome Roman tiles are, to this day, found among the rubbifh, with eight angles. This place is remarkable alfo for a perforation or paf- fage of at leaft a furlong in length, dug through the bottom of a great hill, and leading into a fine valley, it was intended for a way to the houfe, then the feat of Henry duke of Norfolk ; but the defign was hindered by a rock at the fouth end ; yet it is ftill preferved and ad- mired as a grotto. 5. A fkeleton of a man, which meafured nine feet three inches, was found in the church-yard at Wotton, as the labourers were enlarging a vault belonging to the Evelyns. The Borough of Southwark, fituated in this county, has been already defcribed in our account of Middlefex, it making one of the divifions of London. Curious Plants found in Surry. Water-mint of a fpicy fmell, Mentha arvenfis verii- cillata folio rotundiore odore aromatico, Ray. This is a very fcarce plant, but found in the hedges near the foot of Box-hill. Blue fweet-fmelling toad-flax, Linaria odorata monf- pajjulana, f. B. found in the hedges near Farnham. The fir-leaved Heath, with many flowers, Erica foliis curios multijlora, J. B. found on many of the heaths, particularly thofe near Godalming. Roman Nettle, Urtica pilutifera femine magna lini, feu •urtica Romana, Ray, found in the fhady ditches in the neighbourhood of Croydon. R Y. 229 Round-leaved marfh St. Peter's wort, Afcyrum pa- lufire villofum, Ray, found near the borders of fprings, particularly about thofe of the Mole and the Wandle. Verticulate Knot-grafs, with thyme-like leaves, Polygonum frpillifolium verticillatum, Ray, found in watery places in many parts of the county. Tender ivy-leaved Bell-flower, Campanula paluftre cymbalariee foliis, Ger. found in feveral parts of this county, on watery banks. Maiden Pinks, Catyophillus minor repens noflras, Ray. Thefe flowers, which the feedfmen call Matted :; •!.<.<, grow in plenty on the landy hills, particular > fear Efher. Bird's-foot, Ornithopodium majus, Ger. found in the fields near Cobhani. Wood-peale, or Heath-peafe, Jftragalus fylvaticus, Ger. found on the heathy grounds near Godalming. Thorow-wax, Perforata vulgaris, Ger. found among the corn near Croydon. Self-heal, Prunella vulgaris, Park, found in the paf- ture-grounds near Kingfton. Buckthorn, Rham/ts cathartica, J. B. found in the hedges near Letherhead. Wild Thyme, Thymus fylvefiris, Ger. found in van: plenty on moft of the downs and upland paftures of this county. Squinancy-wort, Synanchica Lugdimienfis, Ger. found on feveral parts of Leith -hill. Wild -rue, Ruta montana, Ger. found on fome parts of the fame hill. Crefted Cow-wheat, Melampyrum Crijlatum, J. B. found plentifully in feveral parts of the county. The later autumnal. Gentian, with leaves like cen- taury, Gentianella fugax autumnalis elatior centaurii mi- noris foliis, Park, found on Banfted downs, though not in great plenty. Members 'of Parliament for Surry. This county fends fourteen members to parliamentj, two knights of the fhire for the county, and two' mem- bers for each of the following boroughs, Gatton, Hafle- mere, Blechingley, Ryegate, Guildford, and Southwark, N n n BERKSHIRE, t 236 ] SB E R K S H X R Ei THIS county is bounded by Hampfhire on the fouth ; by Wiltfhire and Gloucefterfhire on the weft ; by the Thames, which divides it from the coun- ties of Buckingham and Oxford, on the north ; and on the eaft by Surry. It is about thirty-nine miles in length, twenty-nine in breadth, one hundred and twenty in circumference, and contains nearly fix hundred and fifty-four miles in area, or five hundred and twcnty-feven thoufand acres. It is divided into twenty hundreds, and contains twelve market-towns, one hundred and forty parifhes, fixty- two vicarages, fix hundred and feventy-one villages, and about eighty-five thoufand inhabitants. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of Salifbury. RIVERS. The principal rivers in this county are, the Thames, the Rennet, the Loddon, the Ocke, and the Lam- bourne. The Thames, which rifes in Gloucefterfhire, wafties the northern part of this county frdm one extremity to the other, and is navigable, for large barges, to Lech- lade. That part of this river intercepted between its fource and its confluence with a fmall ftream called the Tame, has been long termed the Ills, and yet there is inconteftible proof that this is an erroneous appellation. The common people call this river the Thames quite from its fource ; and in an ancient charter granted to abbot Aldheim, particular mention is made of certain lands lying upon the eaft part of the river, " cujus uoca- lulum Temis juxta vaclum qui appellatur Summerford ; ' and as this Summerford is in Wiltfhire, it is evident that the river was then called Temis, or Tems, before its junction with the Tame. The fame thing appears in ■ every charter and authentic, hiftory where this river is mentioned, particularly in feveral charters granted to the abbey of Malmfbury, and fome old deeds relating to Cricklade, both which places are in Wiltfhire. All our hiftorians who mention the incurfions of Ethelwald into Wiltfhire, in the year 905, or of Canute in 1016, tell us, that they pafTed over the Thames at Cricklade. The Saxons called it Temefe, from its fource to its mouth, and from Temife, our Tems, or Thames, is immediately derived. The principal branch of the Kennet rifes in Wilt- fhire, enters this county at Hungerford, paiTes by New- bury and Reading, and falls into the Thames about two miles below the latter. The Loddon rifes in this county, near the town of Ockingham ; and directing its courfe to the northward, fa'ls into the Thames about two miles below Sunning. The Ocke rifes near Compton, a village in this county ; pafTes by Standford, Shipton, and Abington, falling into the Thames about a mile below the latter. The Lambourne rifes near a town called Lower Lam- bourne, directing its courfe towards the fouth-eaft, near fifteen miles, paffing by feveral villages, and falling into The Kennet about a mile and a half below Newbury. There is fomething very particular in this little river ; the water being, contrary to mod other ftreams, highefi: in fummer, finking gradually as the winter approaches, till at laft the bed of the river is nearly, if not quite This extraordinary phenomenon is eafily accounted for, by fuppofing that there is in the hill from which this ftream ifliies, a large cavity, with a duct or pafiage in the form of a fyphon, or crane, fuch as is commonly ufed to decant wine and other liquors. If this be granted, the folution will be very eafy : the rain, which begins to fall plentifully in autumn, and continues during the winter, will at length raife the water in the fubterraneoUS bafon to the level of the upper part of the fyphon ; when this happens, the water will begin to flow out at the aperture at the extremity of the other leg of the fyphon, which being lower than that which communicates with the water in the bafon, the water will continue to flow out till the furface of the water in the bafon finks below the aperture or leg of the fyphon communicating with it. The confequence of this is, the bafon being filled during the winter, the duel will begin to run in the fpring, and continue running all the fummer; but this being a dry feafon, and not fupplying the bafon with water as faft as it is exhaufted, the water will at length fink below the aperture in the fhorter leg of the fyphon, and therefore the water will ceafe to run till it rifes again in the bafon to the lever of the upper part or bend of the fyphon, which will happen the beginning of the following fummer ; and thus the ftream will always run in the dry feafon^ and become dry in the wet, except the little it borrows from the trickling of the adjacent fprings. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Berkfnire. The only navigable rivers in this county are, the Thames and the Kennet. The former is navigable, for large barges, to Licblads in Gloucefterihire, and fmall boats go much higher. But this navigation, for want of proper care, is now become fo extremely bad, that it is hardly poffible to pafs up and down the ftream when the water is low. Several enormous banks of fand and gravel are collected in different parts of the ftream, fo that there is not fometimes water fufHcient for loaded barges to pafs for feveral months together. Near Abingdon, there is a very remarkable bank of this kind, called Abingdon-ditch, occafioned by the influx of the Ocke; and though this fhoal might be removed at a trifling expence, it is fuffored to remain, and will, in all proba- bility, continue there, till the navigation is entirely flopped, when necellity, perhaps, will prevail upon thofe whole intereft is more eflentially concerned in the navi- gation of this river, to remove a nuifance long com- plained of in vain. But we would not be underftood to mean, that this is the only bank in this river which im- pedes the navigation; there are a great many more, though perhaps none fo very remarkable. In a word, the v. hole navigation is fo fhamefully neglected, that a river capable of being made the oeft navigation in Eng- land, is now abfolutcly the worft. There is, however, fome reafon to hope, that this navigation will very foon be wholly altered, and rendered at once both fafe and expeditious. The Kennet is navigable to within a fmall diftance of Newbury; and the Jargeft barges come up to Reading bridge, where there are commodious wharfs for loading; and clearing them. Air, Soil, ahd natural Productions. The air of Berkfhire is healthy, even in the vallies ; and though the foil is not remarkable for its fertility, yet the appearance is very pleafaht, being delightfully varied with hills and vallies, woods and water, which arc fees at once in almoft every profpect. Many parts of the county are covered with fine timber, particularly oak and beech, and fame diftricts of it pro- duce great plenty of wheat and barley. It is moft fruit- ful on the banks of the Thames and the Kennet, and in the parts about Lambourne, on the weftern fide where it borders upon Wiltfhire, particularly what is called the vale of W'-ite Horfe ; on the eaft fide, where it borders upon Surry, it is rather barren, being covered with woods I and forclh. M A N U- BERKSHIRE. Manufactures. Berkfhire had formerly a greater {hare of the Vi'fcbUen j 'manufacture than any other part of the ifland ; and its principal manufaftures are ftill woollen cloth, canvas, and malt. Remarks on the Husbandry of Berklhire. The foil of this county is very difFerent. The mea- dows on the banks of the rivers produce large quantities of orafs, and feed great numbers of cattle. Vdft flocks of Ihecp are kept upon the downs, and in the upland , pafhires, and folded every night for the fake of their ma- nure, a very commendable piece of hufbandry. The vallies are moft of them arable lands, but of two kinds ; of foil, one heavy, and the other light turnip land. The former they ufe chiefly for wheat and beans, and the latter for turnips, barley, Sec. Their courfeof crops on the former is, I. fallow; 2. wheat; 3. barley; 4. peafe, oats, beans, clover, or tares. For wheat they plough three or four times, fow three bufhels, or three and a half on an acre, and reckon between three and four quarters a middling crop. For barley they plough from once to thrice, fow three bufhels, and get, on a medium, three or four quarters. Oats they plough for but once, fow' five or fix bufhels, and gain, on a me- dium, from four to five quarters. They plough twice for beans, fow about four bufhels, and reap about two quarters and a half, without ever hoeing them. The rents are very variable here, from ten to twenty fhillings ' an acre. Some farms alfo are very large, and others imall. The courfe of hufbandry in the light turnip lands is different ; 1 . turnips ; 2. barley ; 3. clover ; A. wheat. Their ploughs are in general drawn by four horfes, driven by a boy, while a man holds the plough, and do about an acre a day. The price of labour is very difFerent in the feveral parts of this county, being dearer in the eaflern than in the weitern parts. In win- ter a labourer has one {billing and fix-pence ; in hay- time, two fhillings, with fmall beer ; and in harveft, two ihillings and fix-pence; reaping wheat, from five to - eight fhillings per acre ; mowing grafs, two fhillings and fix-pence ; barley, two fhillings. Borough, and Market Towns, &c. We entered the county of Berkfnire from Surry, and came firft to Windfor, fo famous for having been long one of the royal feats. Windfor, fo called from its winding fhore, is a plea- fant and well inhabited borough, twenty-three miles from London, agreeably fituated on the fouth bank of the Thames, in the midft of delightful vallies. Its church is a fpacious ancient building, fituated in the Hio-h-ftreet of the town, in which is alio the town- houfe, a neat regular edifice built in 1686, and fup- ported with columns and arches of Portland ftone : at the north end is placed in a niche the ftatue of queen Anne, in her royal robes, with the globe and other regalia ; and underneath, in the freeze of the entabla- ture of the lcffer columns and arches, is the following infeription in gold letters : Anno Regni VP. Dom. 1707. Arte tua, fculptor, non eft imitab'iih Anna ; ANN.S: vis fimilem fculpere? fculpe Deam S. Chapman, Pratore. And in another niche, on the fouth fide, is the ftr.tue of prince George of Denmark, her majefty's royal confort, in a Roman military habit; and underneath is the fol- lowing infeription : Sercnijjlmo Princlpi 4 Georgia Princlpi Daniae, Heroi ornni faeculo venerando, Chriftophorus Wren Arm. Pofuit. MDCCXI1I. In the area, underneath the town-h: In feveral parts of the ceiling are reprefented the figns of the Zodiac fupported by the winds, with bafkets of flowers beautifully dif- pofed. At the corners are the four Elements, each ex- prefTed by a variety of figures. Aurora is alfo repre- fented with her nymphs in waiting, giving water to her horfes. In feveral parts of the llair-cafe are the figures of Mufic, Painting, and the otheiMciences. The whole is beautifully difpofed and heightened with gold, and HIRE. from this ftair-cafe you have a view of the back flairs, painted with the ftory of Meleager and Atalanta. I. Having afcended the ftair-cafe, you enter firft into the queen's guard-chamber, which is completely fur- nifhed with guns, piftols, bayonets, pikes, fvvords, &c. beautifully ranged and difpofed into various forms^ as the ftar and garter, the royal cypher, and other orna- ments. On the ceiling is Britannia in the perfon of queen Catharine of Portugal, confort to king Charles II. feated on a globe, bearing the arms of England and Por- tugal, with the four grand divificns of the earth, Eu- rope, Afia, Africa, and America, attended by deities, making the'r feveral offerings. On the outer part of this beautiful group, are the figns of the Zodiac, and in different parts of the ceiling are Minerva, Mars, Venus, and other Heathen deities, with Zephyrs, Cupids, and other embellifhments properly difpofed. Over the chim- ney is a portrait of prince George of Denmark on horfe- back, by Dahl ; with a view of (hipping by Vandewell. II. You next enter the Queen's prefence chamber, where queen Catharine is reprefented attended by Reli- gion, Prudence, Fortitude, and other Virtues: fhe is under a curtain fpread by Time, and fupported by Ze- phyrs, while Fame founds the happineis of Britain. Below, Juftice is driving away Envy, Sedition, and other evil Genii. The room is hung with tapeftry, containing the hiftory of the beheading of St. Paul, and the perfecution of the primitive Chriftians ; and adorned v/ith the pictures of Judith and Holofemes, by Guido Reni ; a Magdalen, by Sir Peter Lellv ; and a Prome- theus by young Palma. III. On entering the Queen's audience chamber, you fee the ceiling painted with Britannia in the perfon of queen Catharine, in a car drawn by fwans to the temple of Virtue, attended by Flora, Ceres, Pomona, &c. with other decorations heightened v/ith gold. The canopy is of fine Englifh velvet, fet up by queen Anne; and the tapeftry was made at Coblentz in Germany, and pre- fented to king Henry VIII. The pictures hung up in this room are, a Magdalen by moon-light, by Carracci ; St. Stephen ftoned, by Rotterman ; and Judith and Ho- lofemes, byGuido Reni. IV. On the ceiling of the Ball-room, king Charles II. is reprefented giving freedom to Europe by thp figures of Perfeus and Andromeda : on the fhield of Perfeus is in- fcribed, Perfeus Britannicus ; and over the head of An- dromeda is wrote, Europa Liherata ; and Mars, attended by the celeftial deities, offers the olive branch. On the coving of this chamber is the ftory of Perfeus and An- dromeda, the four feafons, and the figns of the Zodiac, the whole heightened with gold. The tap?ftry, which was made at Bruffels, and fet up by king Charles II. reprefents the feafons of the year ; and the room is adorned with the following pictures, the Roman Cha- rity, after Tintoret; Duns Scotus, by Spagnoletto ; a Madona, by Titian ; Fame, by Palmegiani ; the Arts and Sciences, alfo by Palmegiani; and Pan and Syrinx, by Stanick. V. The next room you enter is the Queen's drawing- room, where, on the ceiling, is painted the aflembly of the gods and goddeffes, the whole intermixed with Cu- pids, flowers, &c. and heightened with gold. The room is hung with tapeftry, reprefenting the twelve months of the year, and adorned with the pictures of Lot and his daughters, after Angelo; lady Digby, wife of Sir Kenelm Digby, by Vandyke; a fleeping Venus, by Pouffin; a family in the character of Mark Anthony and Cleopatra, by De Bray; a Spanifti family, after Titian ; and a flower-piece, by Varclft. VI. In the Queen's bed-chamber, the bed of ftate is rich flowered velvet, made in Spitalfields by order of queen Anne ; and the tapeftry, which reprefents the harveft feafon, was alfo made at London, by Poyntz. The ceiling is painted with the ftory of Diana and En- dymion, and the room is adorned with the pictures of the Holy Family, by Raphael ; Herod's cruelty, by Giulio Romano; and Judith and Holofernes, by Guido. VII. The next is the room of Beauties, fo named from the portraits of the moft celebrated beauties in the reign of king Charles II. They are fourteen in number, viz. BERKSHIRE. viz. Lady Oflory, the dutchefs of Somerfet, the dutchefs of Cleveland, lady Gramont, the countefs of Northum- berland, the dutchefs of Richmond, lady Birons, Mrs Middleton, lady Denham and her fifter, lady-Rochefter, lady Sunderland, Mrs. Dawfon, and Mrs. Knott. Thefe are all original paintings, drawn to great perfection by Sir Peter Lelly. VIII. In the Queen's dreffing-room are the following portraits, queen Henrietta Maria, wjfe to king Charles I. queen Mary, when a child, and queen Catharine : thefe three are all done by Vandyke. The dutchefs of York, mother to queen Mary and queen Anne, by Sir Peter Lelly. In this room is a clofet wherein ave feveral paintings, and in particular a portrait of the countefs of Defmond, who is faid to have lived to within a few days of an hundred and fifty years of age : alfo a portrait of Erafmus, and other learned men. In this clofet is likewife the banner of France, annually delivered on the fecond of Auguft by the duke of Marlborough, by which he holds Blenheim houfe, built at Woodftock in Oxfordfhire in the reign of queen Anne, as a national reward to that great general for his many glorious victories over the French. IX. You are next conducted into Queen Elizabeth's, or the Picture Gallery, which is richly adorned with the following paintings : King James I. and his queen, whole lengths, by Vanfomer ; Rome in flames, by Giulio Romano; a Reman family, by Titian; the Holy Fa- mily, after Raphael ; Judith and Holofernes, by Tin- toret ; a night-piece, by Skalkin ; the pool of Bethefda, by Tintoret ; a portrait of Charles VI. emperor of Ger- many, by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; the wife men making their offerings to Chrift, by Paulo Veronefe ; two ufurers, an admired piece, by the famous blackfmith of Antwerp ; Perfeus and Andromeda, by Schiavone ; Aretine and Titian, by Titian ; the duke of Gloucefter, a whole length, by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; prince George of Denmark, a whole length, by Dahl ; king Henry VIII. by Hans Holbein ; Vandaneili, an Italian ftatuary, by Correggio ; the founders of different orders in the Ro- mifh church, by Titian and Rembrandt ; a rural piece in low life, by Ballano ; a fowl-piece, by Varelft ; the battle of Spurs, near Terevaen in France, in 1513, by Hans Holbein ; two views of Windfor caftle, by Wofter- man, and two Italian markets, by Michael Angelo. In this room is alfo a curious amber cabinet, prefented by the king of Pruffia to queen Caroline. There is here likewife queen Caroline's china clofet, filled with a great variety of curious china elegantly difpofed, and the whole room is finely gilt and orna- mented. Over the chimney are the pictures of prince Arthur, and his two fifters, the children of K. Henry VII. by Holbein ; and in this clofet is alfo a fine amber cabi- net, prefe ted to queen Anne by Dr. Robinfon, bifhop of London, and plenipotentiary at the congrefs of U- trecht. X. From this gallery a return is made to the King's Clofet, the ceiling of which is adorned with the ftory of Jupiter and Leda. Among the curiofities in this room is a large frame of needle-work, faid to be wrought by Mary Queen of Scots, while a prifoner in Forthinghay- caftle. Among other figures, (he herfelf is reprefented fupplicating for juftice before the Virgin Mary, with her fon, afterwards king James I. ftanding by her. In a fcrawl are worked thefe words, Sapientiam amavi et ex- quijivi a juventute mea. This piece of work, after its having lain a long time in the wardrobe, was fet up by order of queen Anne. The pictures are, a Magdalen, by Carracci ; a fleeping Cupid, by Correggio; Contem- plation, by Carracci ; Titian's daughter, by herfelf; and a German lady, by Raphael. XI. You are next conducted into the King's drefling- room, where the ceiling is painted with the ftory of Jupiter and Danae, and adorned with the pictures of the birth of Jupiter, by Giulio Romano ; and of a naked Venus afleep, by Sir Peter Lelly. XII. On leaving the above room, you are conducted into the King's Bed-chamber, which is hung with tapeftry reprefenting the ftory of Hero and Leander. • 23 The bed of ftate, which was fet up in the reign of king Charles II. is of fine blue cloth, richly embroidered with gold and fiver ; and on the ceiling that prince is reprefented in the robes of the garter, under a canopy fupported by Time, Jupiter and Neptunej with a wreath of laurel over his head; and he is attended by Europe, Afia, Africa, and America, paying their obe- dience to him. The paintings are, king Charles II. when a boy, in armour, by Vandyke; and St. Paul ftoned at Lyftra, by Paulo Veronefe. XII f. 1 he ceiling of the King's Drawing-room^ which is next feen, is finely painted with king Charles II. riding in a triumphal car, drawn by the horfes of the fun, attended by Fame, Peace, and the polite arts ; Hercules ia driving away Rebellion, Sedition arid Igno- rance ; Britannia and Neptune, properly attended, are paying obedience to the Monarch as he paffes ; and the whole is a lively rcprefentation of the reftoration of that monarch, and the introduction of arts and fciences into thefe kingdoms. In the other parts of the ceiling are painted the labours of Hercules, with feftoOns of fruit and flowers, the whole beautifully decorated in gold and ftone colour. The pictures hung up in this room are, a converted Chinefe, by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; the mar- quis of Hamilton, after Vandyke, by Hanneman ; He- rodias's daughter, by Carlo Dolci ; a Magdalen, by Carlo Dolci ; and a Venetian lady, by Titian. XIV. You next enter the King's Drawing-room, where the painted ceiling reprefents the banquet of the gods, with a variety of fifh and fowl. The pictures hung up here are, the portraits of his prefent majefty, and the late queen Caroline, whole lengths ; Hercules and Omphale, Cephalus and Procris, the birth of Venus, and Venus and Adonis, the four laft by Genario ; a naval triumph of king Charles II. by Verrio ; the mar- riage of St. Catharine, by Dawkers ; nymphs and fa- tyrs, by Rubens and Snyders ; hunting the wild boar, by Snyders ; a picture of flill life, by Girardo; the tak- ing of the bears, by Snyders ; a night-piece, being a family finging by candlelight, byQuiftin; a Bohemian family, by de Brie ; divine love, by an unknown hand ; and Lacy, a famous comedian in king Charles II. 's time, in three characters, by Wright. Many of the paintings in this room are beft feen at noon by the reflection of the fun. The carving of this chamber is very beautiful, reprefenting a great variety of fowl, fifh, and fruit, done to the utnioft perfection on lime wood, by Mr. Gibbons, a famous ftatuary and carver in the reign of king Charles II. XV. In the King's Audience-chamber, the canopy, which was fet up in the reign of king Charles II. is of green velvet, richly embroidered with gold ; and on the ceiling is reprefented the eftahlifhment of the church of England at the reftoration, in the characters of Eng- land, Scotland, and Ireland, attended by Faith, Hope, Charity, and the cardinal virtues; Religion triumphs over Superftition and Hypocrify, who are driven by Cupids from before the face of the church, all which are reprefented in their proper attitudes, and highly finifhed. The pictures hung up in this room are, our Saviour before Pilate, by Michael Angelo ; the Apoftles at our Saviour's tomb, by Scavoni ; Peter, James, and John, by Michael Angelo ; and the dutchefs of Richmond, by Vandyke. XVI. The King's Prefence-chamber is hung with tapeftry containing the hiftory of queen Athaliah, and the ceiling is finely adorned with painting: Mercury is reprefented with an original portrait of king Charles II. which he fhews to the four quarters of the world, intro- duced by Neptune; Fame declaring the glory of thac prince, and Time driving away Rebellion, Sedition, and their companions. Over the canopy is Juftice in ftone colour, fhewing the arms of Britain to Thames and the river nymphs, with the ftar of Venus, and this label, Sydus Carobjnum : at the lower end of the chamber is Venus in a marine car drawn by tritons and fea- nymphs. The portraits hung up are, Henry duke of Gloucefter, brother to king Charles II. and his governefs the countefs of Dorfet, both by Vandyke ; and father Paul, by Tintoret. O o o XVII, The f34 BERKS XVII. The King's Guard-chamber, which you next enter, is a fpacious and nobie room, in which is a large magazine of arms, confifting of fome thouiands of pik.es, piftols, guns coats of mail, fwords, halberts, bavonets, and drums, difpofed in a moft curious manner in'colonades, pillars, circles, fhields, and other devices, by Mr. Harris, late mafter gunner of this caftle, the perfon who invented this beautiful arrangement of arms, and placed thofe in the great armoury in the Tower of London. The ceiling is finely painted in water-colours: in one circle is Mars and Minerva, and in the other Peace and Plenty. In the dome is alfo a representation of Mars ; and over the chimney-piece is a picture of Charles XI. king of Sweden, on horfeback, at big as the life, by Wyck. At an inftailalion, the knights of the garter dine here in great ftate in the abience of the fovereign. XVIII. You next enter St. George's Chamber, which is particularly fet apart to the honour of the moft illuftrious order of the garter, and is perhaps one of the nobleft rooms in Europe, both with regard to the build- ing and the painting, which is here performed in the moft grand tafte. In a large oval in the centre of the ceiling, king Charles II. is reprefented in the habit of the order,, attended by England, Scotland, and Ireland ; Religion and Plenty hold the crown of thefe kingdoms over~his head ; Mars and Mercury, with the emblems of war and peace, ftand on each fide. In the fame oval regal government is reprefented,. upheld hy Religion and Eternity, with Juftice attended by Fortitude, Tem- perance and Prudence, beating down Rebellion and Faction. Towards the throne is reprefented in an octa- gon, St. G rouge's crofs incircled with the garter,, within a ftar or glory fupported by Cupids, with the motto, Hon" i soit qui mal y pense : and befides other embellifhments relating to the order, the Mufes are reprefented attending in full confort. On the back of the ftate, or fovereign's throne, is a large drapery, on which is painted St. George encoun- tering the dragon, as large as the life ; and on the lower border of the drapery is inferibed, Veniendo restituit rem : in allufion to king William III. who is painted in the habit of the order, fitting under a royal canopy, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. To the throne is an afcent by five fteps of fine marble, to which the painter has added five more, which are done with fuch perfection as to deceive the fight, and induce the fpedtator to think them equally real. This noble room is an hundred and eight feet in length, and the whole north fide is taken up with the triumph of Edward the Black Prince, after the manner of the Romans. At the upper part of the hall is Ed- ward III. that prince's father, the conqueror of France and Scotland, and the founder of the order of the garter, feated on a throne, receiving the kings of France and Scotland prifoners : the Black Prince is feated in the middle of the proceffion, crowned with laurel, and car- ried by flaves, preceded by captives, and attended by the emblems of Victory, Liberty, and other infignia of the Romans, with the banners of France and Scotland dis- played. The painter has given a loofe to his fancy, by doling the proceffion with the fiction of the countefs of Salifbury, in the perfon of a fine lady, making garlands for the prince, and the reprefentation of the Merry Wives of Windfor. At the lower end of the hall is a noble mufic gallery, fupported by flaves, larger than the life, in proper atti- tudes, faid to reprefent a father and his three fons taken prifoners by the Black Prince in his wars abroad. Over this gallery, on the lower compartment of the ceiling, is the collar of the order of the garter fully difplayed. The painting of this room was done by Verro, and is highly finifhed, and heightened with gold. XIX. You are next conducted to St. George's or the King's Chapel, which is no lefs royally adorned. On the ceiling is finely reprefented our Lord's afcenfion ; and the altar-piece is adorned with a noble painting of the H I R E. Laft Supper. The north fide of the chjpel is orna-. mented with the reprefentation of our Saviour's raifin^ Lazarus from the dead, his curing the' fick of the pally ^ and other miracles, beautifully painted by Verro ; and in a group of fpeitators, the painter has introduced his own effigy, with thovj of Sir Godfrey Kneiler, and Mr. Cooper, who aifified flim in thefe paintings. The eaft end of this chapel is taken up with the clofets belonging to his majefty and the royal family. The canopy, cur- tains, and furniture, are of crimfon velvet, fringed with gold ; and the carved work of this chapel, which is well worthy the attention of the curious, is done by that fa- mous artift Gibbons, in lime-tree, reprelenting a great variety of pelicans, doves, palms, and other allufions to fcripture hiftory, with the ftar and gaiter, and other ornaments finifhed to great perfection. From St. George's Chapel you are conducted to the Queen's Guard-chamber, the firft room you entered j for this is the laft of the ftate apartments at prefent fhown to the public, the others being only opened when the court refides at Windfor. They confift of many beautiful chambers, adorned with the paintings of the greateft mafters. In paffing from henee, the ftranger ufually looks into the inner or horn-court, fo called from a pair of flags horns of a very extraordinary fize, taken in the foreft, and fet up in that court, which is painted in bronze and ftone colour. On one fide is reprefented a Roman battle, and on the oppofite fide a fea-fight, with the images of Jupiter, Neptune, Mercury and Pallas ; and in the gallery is a reprefentation of king David playing before the ark. From this court a flight of ftone fteps lead to the King's Guard-chamber ; and in the cavity under thefe fteps, and fronting this court, is a figure of Hercules alfo in ftone colours. On a dome over the fteps, is painted the battle of the Gods ; arid on the fides of the ftair-cafe is a reprefentation of the four ages of theworld > and two battles of the Greeks and Romans in frefco. Among the buildings of this noble palace we have mentioned the chapel of St. George, fituated in the middle of the lower court. This ancient ftrudture, which is now in the pureft ftile of Gothic architecture, was firft erected by king Edward III. in the year 1337, foon after the foundation of the college, for the honour of the order of the garter, and dedicated to St. George, the patron of England ; but however noble the firft de- fign might be, king Edward IV. not finding it entirely completed, enlarged the ftrudture, and defigned the pre- fent building, together with the houfes of the dean and canons, fituated on the north and weft fides of the cha- pel : the work was afterwards carried on by Henry VII. who finifhed the body of the chapel ; and Sir Reginald Bray, knight of the garter, and the favourite of that king, afiifted in ornamenting the chapel and completing the roof. The architecture of the infide has always been efteemed for its neatnefs and great beauty ; and in particular, the ftone roof is reckoned an excellent piece of workman- fhip. It is an ellipfis fupported by Gothic pillars, whofe ribs and groins fuftain the whole ceiling, every part of which has fome different device well finifhed, as the arms of Edward the Confeffor, Edward III. Henry VI. Edward IV. Henry VII. and Henry VIII. alfo the arms of England and France quarterly, the crofs of St. George, the rofe, portcullis, lion rampant, unicorn, &c. Jn a chapel in the fouth ifle is reprefented in an- cient painting, the hiftory of John the Baptift ; and in- the fame ifle are painted on large pannels of oak, neatly carved, and decorated with the feveral devices peculiar to each prince, the portraits, at full length, of prince Edward, fon to Henry VI. Edward IV. Edward V. and Henry VII. In the north ifle is a chapel dedicated to St. Stephen, wherein the hiftory of that faint is painted on the pannels, and well preferved. In the firft of thefe pannels St. Stephen is reprefented preaching to the peo- ple; in the fecond, he is before Herod's tribunal ; in the third, he isftoning; and in the fourth, he is reprefented dead. At the eaft end of this ifle is the chapter-houfe of the college, in which is a portrait at full length, by a m after! 'f Berkshire. fcafttrly hand, of the victorious Edward III. in his robes of {late, holding in his right hand a fword, and bearing the crowns of France and Scotland, in token of the many victories he gained over thofe nations. On 6ne fide of this painting is kept the fword of that great and warlike prince. But what appears moft worthy of notice is the choir. On each fide are the {tails of the fovereign and knights companions of the moft noble order of the garter, with the helmet, mantling, creft, and fword, of each knight fet up over his ftall on a canopy of ancient carving cu- riouily wrought ; and over the canopy is affixed the banner or arms of each knight properly blazon'd on filk; and on the back of the ftalls are the titles of the knights, with their arms neatly engraved and blazoned on copper. The fovereign's ftall is on the right hand of the entrance into the choir, and is covered with purple velvet and cloth of gold, and has a canopy and complete furniture of the fame valuable materials; his banner is likewife of velvet, and his mantling of cloth of gold. The prince's ftall is on the left, and has no diftinction from thofe of the reft of the knights companions, the whole fociety, according to the ftatutes of the inftitution, being com- panions and collegues, equal in honour and power. The altar-piece was, foon after the Reftoration, adorned with cloth of gold and purple damafk by king Charles II. but on removing the wainfcot of one of the chapels in 1707, a fine painting of the Lord's Supper was found, which being approved of by Sir James Thornhill, Verrio, and other eminent mafters, it was repaired and placed on the altar-piece. Near the altar is the Queen's Gallery, for the accom- modation of the ladies at an inftallation. In a vault under the marble pavement of this choir, are interred the bodies of Henry VIII. and Jane Seymour his queen, King; Charles I. and a daughter of the late queen Anne. In the fouth ifle, near the door of the choir, is buried Henry VI. and the arch near which he was interred was fumptuouily decorated by Henry VIII. with the royal enfigns and other devices, but they are now much defaced by time. In this chapel is alfo the monument of Edward earl of Lincoln, lord high admiral of England in the reign of queen Elizabeth, erected by his lady, who is alfo interred with him. The monument is of alabafter, with pillars of porphyry. Another, within a neat fcreen of brafs work, is erected to the memory of Charles Somerfet, earl of Worcefter, and knight of the garter, who died in 1526, and his lady, daughter to William earl of Huntingdon. A {lately monument of white marble erected to the memory of Henry Somerfet, duke of Beaufort, and knight of the garter, who died in 1699. There are here alfo the tombs of Sir George Manners, lord Roos ; that of the lord Haftings, chamberlain to Edward IV. and feveral others. Before we conclude our account of this ancient cha- pel, it will be proper to obferve, that king James II. made ufe of it for the fervice of popery, and mafs being publicly performed there, it has ever fince been neglected and fuffered to run to ruin ; and being no appendage to the collegiate church, waits the royal favour to retrieve it from the difi>;race of its prefent fituation. With refpect to the royal foundations in this caftle, they are the moft noble order of the garter, which con- fifts of the fovereign and twenty-five knights compa- nions : the royal college of St. George, which confifts of a dean, twelve canons, feven minor canons, eleven clerks, an or^anift, a verger, and two facrifts ; and the alms knights, who are eighteen in number, viz. thirteen of the royal foundation, and five of the foundation of Sir Peter le Make, in the reign of king James I. Windfor caftle being the feat of the moft illuftrious order of the knights of the garter, it may be expected that we fhould here give fome account of it. The order of the garter was inftituted by Edward III. in the year 1349, for the improvement of military honour, and the reward of virtue. It is alfo called the order of St. George, the patron of England, under whofe banner the Englifh always went out to war, and St. George's crofs was made the enfign of the order. The garter was, at the fame time, appointed to be worn by the knights on the left leg, as a principal mark of diftinction, not from any regard to a lady's parter, " but as a tye or band of " afibciation in honour and military virtue, to bind the " knights companions ftiictly to himfelf and each " other, in friendfhip and true agreement, and as an " enfign or badge of unity and combination, to pro- " mote the honour of God, and the glory and intereft " of their prince and fovereign." At that time king Edward being engaged in prolecuting, by arms, his right to the crown of France, caufed the French motto, Honi soiT qui mal y pens E, to be wrought in gold letters round the garter, declaring thereby the equity of his intention, and at the fame time retorting fhame and. defiance upon him who fhould dare to think ill of the juft enterprize in which he' had engaged, for the fupport of his right to that crown. The inftallation of a knight of this moft noble order confifts of many ceremonies cffablifbed by the royal founder, and the fucceeding fovereigns of the order, the care of which is committed to Garter king at arms, a principal officer of the order, appointed to fupport and maintain the dignity of this noble order of knighthood. On the day appointed for the inftallation, the knights commiffioners appointed by the fovereign to inftal the knights elect, meet in the morning, in the great cham- ber in the dean of Windfor's houfe, drelTed in the full habit of the order, where the officers of the order alfd attend in their habits ; but the knights elect come thither in their under habits only, with their caps and feathers in their hands. From hence the knights walk two and two in pro- ceffion to St. George's chapel, preceded by the poor knights, prebends, heralds, purfuivants, and other offi- cers of the order, in their feveral habits : being arrived there, the knights elect reft themfelves in chairs behind the altar, and are refpectively introduced into the chap- ter-houfe, where the knights commiffioners (Garter and the other officers attending) inveft them with thefurcoat or upper habit of the order, while the regifter reads the following admonition : " Take this robe of crimfon to " the increafe of your honour, and in token or fign of " the moft noble order you have received, wherewith " you being defended, may be bold, not only ftrong to " fight, but alfo to offer yourfelf to {hed your blood for " Chrift's faith, and the liberties of the church, and " the juft and neceiTary defence of tbem that are op- " prefled and needy." Then Garter prefents the crim- fon velvet girdle to the commiffioners, who buckle it on, and alfo girds on the hanger and fword. The procemon of each knight elect feparately is after- wards made into the choir, attended by the lords com- miffioners, and other companions of the order, and pre- ceded by the poor knights, prebends, &c. as before, Garter in the middle carrying, on a crimfon velvet cufhion, the mantle, hood, garter, collar, and George, having the regifter on his right hand, who carries the New Teftament, and the oath fairly written on parch- ment, and the black rod on his left. On entering the choir, after reverence made to the altar, and the fove- reign's ftall, the knights are conducted to their feveral ftalls, under their refpective banners, and other enfigns of honour. The knights elect then take the oath, and are completely drefled, inverted with the mantle of the order, and the great collar of St. George, which is done with great ftate and folemnity. After the inftallation, the knights make their folemn offerings at the altar, and prayers being ended, the grand proceffion of the knights is made from the choir in their full habits of the order, with their caps frequently- adorned with diamonds, and plumes of feathers on their heads, round the body of the church ; and paffing out at the fouth door, the proceffion is continued in great ftate through the courts of the caftle into St. George's Hall, preceded by his majefty's mufic, in the following order; the poor knights of Windfor; the choir of St. George's chapel ; the canons, or prebends of Windfor ; the heralds and purfuivants at arms; the dean of Windfor, regifter of the order, with garter king at arms on his right BERKSHIRE. 235 right hand, and on his left the black rod of the order ; the knights companions, according to their ftalls, their trains fupportcd by the chorifters of St. George's chapel The knights having for fome time refted in the royal apartments, a fumptuous banquet is prepared, if the fovereign be prefent, in St. George's Hall, and in his ablence, in the great Guard-chamber next adjoining, and the knights are introduced, and dine with great ftate in the habits of the order, the mufic attending. Before dinner is ended, Garter king at arms proclaims the ftyle and dignity of each knight, after which the company retire, and the evening isclofed with a ball for the ladies in the royal lodgings. As we have already defcribed the town of Windfor, the little park and caftle, and given fome account of the order of knights of the Garter, we are naturally led to mention the great park, which lies on the fouth fide of the town, and opens by a noble road in a direct line to the top of a delightful hill at near three miles diftance. This road leads through a double plantation of trees on each fide, to the ranger's or keeper's lodge, at prefent the refidence of his royal highnefs the duke of Glou- cefter. The late duke of Cumberland greatly improved the natural beauties of the park, and by large plantations of trees, extenfive lawns, new roads, canals, and rivers, rendered this villa an habitation worthy of a prince. The great park is fourteen miles in circumference, and is well ftocked with deer and other game ; many foreign beafis and birds were here alfo kept by his late royal highnefs, who was continually adding new im- provements. The new erected building on Shrub's- hill, adorned beneath with the profpect of the moft beau- tiful verdure, and a young plantation of trees, is very elegant, and promifes in a fhort time to afford the molt delightful rural fcene ; the noble piece of water below, produced at a great expence from a fmall ftream, is now rendered capable of carrying barges and boats of plea- fure. Over this river, which terminates in a grotto and la'rge cafcade, his royal highnefs erected a bridge on a noble and bold plan, it confifting of one fingle arch, one hundred and fixty-five feet wide. But his royal highnefs's attention was not confined to the park alone, but in like manner extended to the ad- joining foreft, which is of gieat extent, and was appro- priated to hunting and the refidence of the roval game by William the Conqueror, who eftablifhcd many laws and regulations for the prefervation of the deer, that are ftill oblerved. In this extenfive tract of land are feveral pleafant towns and villages, of which Wokingham, fituated near the centre of the foreft, is the principal ; and though the foil is generally barren and uncultivated, yet it is finely diverfified with hills and vales, woods and lawns, and interfperfed with pleafant villas. Thefc rural fcenes are finely painted hy Mr. Pope, who refided here when he wrote his Windfor Foreft, and was him- iclf a native of the place, being born at Binfield. Here waving groves and chequer'd fcenes difplay, And part admit, and part exclude the day ; There, interfpers'd in lawns andop'ning glades, There trees arife, that fhun each other's fhades. Here in full light the ruffet plains extend ; There wrapt in clouds the blueifh hills afcend ; Ev'n the wild heath difplays her purple dyes, ' And 'midft the defart, fruitful fields arife, That crown'd with tufted trees and fpringing corn, Like verdant ides the fable wafte adorn. Among the many fine villas which are in this foreft, we fhall only here mention Cranbornc Lodge, which now belongs to the duke of Gloucefter, as keeper of the foreft. It is large and well built, and is happily fitu- ated, it commanding an extenfive profpect over a fine plain, and a rich country, that forms a molt beautiful landfcape. Windfor fends two members to parliament, has a xveeklv market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, viz. Eafter Tuefday, for horfes and black cattle; the fifth of Tune; for ditto, fheep, and wool ; and the thirteenth of October, for horfes, black cattle, and toys. At Bromehale, in Windfor foreft, there was a fmalF Benedictine nunnery, founded in the reign 01 Richard I. and dedicated to St. Margaret ; but being deferted by the ab'befs and nuns, it was granted by the crown to St. John's college, Cambridge, and ftill belongs to that feat of learning. About four miles from Windfor, on the road to Mai- denhead, is a village called Bray, fuppofed by Camdcil to have been formerly the refidence of the Bibnci, a people who fubmitted to Caefai, when he crofted the Thames in its neighbourhood. But however 1 hat be, it has been long famous for a time-ferving vicar, who held the living at the Reformation, and during the reigns of Edward VI. Mary, and part of that of queen Elizabeth; during which period he was twice a Papift, and twice a Proteftant : but being afterwards reproached for his want of fteauinefs and refolution, anfwered, That his conduct had always been guided by one prin- ciple, and which he confidered as a very laudable one, namely, ** To live and die vicar of Bray " Others, however, will have it, that this famous ecclefiaftic was not an Englifhman, but enjoyed the living of Bray, in the county of V/icklow, in Ireland, reckoned one of the richeft benefices in that kingdom. Near this village is the duke of Marlborough's ifland, in which are two elegant temples, erected ibme years fince by the late duke. Maidenhead is fituated on the Thames, about a mile and a half from Bray, and twenty-eight from London. It is faid to have been once called South Arlington, or Southeelington, which Stowe has contracted into Sud- lington. Various conjectures have been offered with regard to the reafon for its having acquired its prefent name. Some think it obtained this appellation from the head of a Britifh maiden having been kept here, fup- pofed to have been one cf the eleven thoufand virgins who fuffered martyrdom with their leader St. Urfula, near Cologne in Germany, as they were returning from Rome. If this be true, Maidenhead muft be a place of confiderable antiquity, for the martyrdom of St. Urfula and her eleven thoufand attendants, is imputed to Attila king of the Huns, who flourifhed in the fifth century. But this ftory of the eleven thoufand virgins is a remark- able inftance of the grofs ignorance and fuperftitious credulity of the monks; for we are told by Sirman the Jefuit, a writer of great eminence and learning, that in a very ancient manufcript called Martyrology, which he had confulted, there were the following words, " Ur- fula & Undecimilla, V. V. M. M." Urfula and Un- decimilla, virgins and martyrs ; and that the monk3 miftaking the name Undecimilla for undecem mille, eleven thoufand, had conceived and propagated the ridiculous notion, that eleven thoufand virgins travelled and iuf- fercd martyrdom with St. Urfula. Other writers, and indeed with a great appearance of truth, tell us, that the original name of this town was Madenhithe, of which Maidenhead is a corruption ; and it is certain that it was incorporated by the name of the fraternity or guild of the brothers and lifters of Madenhithe, in the tvventy-fixth year of king Edward III. which was about the middle of the fourteenth century ; and in he thirtieth of Henry VI. its privileges were confirmed, and feveral new ones granted. After the Reformation, it was incorporated by the name of Warden and Bur- geffes, which charter it poffeffed until the reign of James II. who granted them a new one, by the rurne of Mayor and Aldermen. We are told by Leland, that in his time, at the weft end of the bridge, was a ^reat; wharfage for timber and fire-wood, brought out of Windfor fcreft, and from the great Fryth. Maidenhead is a great thoroughfare from London to Briftol, and feveral other places, and on that account is full of inns, for the entertainment of travellers ; but had no great repute, till the bridge was built over the Thames, which brought the road from London through the town, before which time travellers palled the river, at a place called Babham-end, where there was a ferry. The bridge (the baige pier of which is the boundary between Berkfhire and Buckinghamfhire) is maintained by the corporation, who, to enable them to fupport the ex- pence, BERK pence, have tolls allowed them over as well as under it ; and three trees annually out of Windfor Foreft, for re- pairing it. There is a chapel of eafe, founded by Mr. John Hufbands, which is an handfome brick building, and ftands in the middle of the town. The minifter is chofen by the inhabitants, in the common hall ; and his income, or the greateft part of it, is raifed by fubfcrip- tion. The town hall, built with timber and plaifter, under which the market is held, is old and ruinous. In the year 1589, James Smith, Efq; citizen and falter of London, erected an alms-houfe in the part of the town which is in Cookham parifh ; it confifts of eight tenements or feparate apartments, for eight poor men and their wives, and he endowed it with forty pounds a year, and the Sakers cdmpany of London are the truftees ; befides which, there have been feveral other donations to the poor of this place. Maidenhead was laft incorporated by a charter from king James II. and is governed by an high fteward, a mayor, a fteward, ten aldermen, from whom twobridge- mafters are annually chofen ; two ferjeants at mace are alfo elected yearly ; the mayor for the time being is clerk of the market, and coroner ; and, together with the preceding mayor and the fteward, acts as a juftice of peace. There is a gaol for debtors and felons appre- hended in the town. The market is on Wednefday, which is the more frequented from the conveniency of fending goods to London by barges : the three fairs, on Wednefday in Whitfun week, for horfes and cattle ; the twenty-ninth of September, for the fame, and for hiring fervants ; and on the thirtieth of November, alfo for horfes and cattle. The adjacent common, called Maidenhead-thicket, from its having been formerly a woody fpot, has been long noted for the many highway robberies there com- mitted. The road beyond the town, which was very narrow and incommodious, was confiderably widened in the year 1764, by cutting away the hills on each fide. At Hurley, about four miles north-eaft of Maiden- head, a priory of Black Monks was founded by Geoffrey de Magna Villa, or Mandeville, in the reign of Wil- liam the Conqueror. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and was a cell to Weftminfter-abbey. The re- venues, at the diffolution, amounted to one hundred and twenty-one pounds eighteen fhillings and five-pence per annum. About a mile and a half to the weftward of Hurley, is Bifham, where there was a preceptory for the Knights Templars, to whom Robert de Ferariis had given the manor in the time of king Stephen. The templars had granted it away, before their difiblution, to Hugh Spencer, and it afterwards came to William Montacute, earl of Salifbury, who in the year 1338 erected a priory here for canons of the order of St. Auguftine, which, at the diffolution of religious houfes, was endowed with an annual revenue of two hundred and eighty-five pounds eleven fhillings. After the prior and monks had fur- rendered their monaftery, Henry VIII. re-founded it, and endowed it with lands of other diffolved monafteries, to the value of fix hundred and fixty-one pounds four- teen fhillings and nine-pence per annum, for the main- tenance of an abbot, who was to enjoy the privilege of wearing a mitre, and thirteen Benedictine monks. But this new inftitution was of fhort continuance; for three years after, it was furrendered a fecond time ; and in the fecond year of Edward VL it came into a layman's hands. In both the furrenders it is called the conven- tual church of the Holy Trinity ; though in the charter of the original foundation, it was faid to be dedicated to our Lord and the Virgin ; and in that of the fecond, to the Virgin only. The church, which is ftill ftanding, is a fmall but neat edifice. Between three and four miles from Maidenhead, in the Reading road, is the village of Shottefbrook. Here are the remains of a chauntry or college, which con- futed of a warJen, five priefts, and two clerks, founded in the year 1337, by Sir William Truffel of Cublefden, knight, and dedicated to St. John the Baptift. The clear annual revenues, at the diffolution, amounted to thirty-three pounds eighteen fhillings and eight-pence. 24 SHIR E, 237 1 Reading, the next town we vifited, is the largcft and molt considerable town in the county, ficuated on the Bath road, near the Thames, and on the banks of the Kennet, forty miles from London. Here was a fine church in the early times of chriftianity, and alfo a ftrong caftle, in which the Danes fortified themfelves, after they had been routed at Afhdom by king Alfred. The Danes abandoned it foon after to the Saxons, who plundered the inhabitants, and almoft levelled the town. But the caftle continued till the reign of Henry II. who demolifhed it, as being a place of arms for Stephen's ad- herents, and there are hardly any veftiges of it now re- maining. This town was formerly famous for the clothing trade, there being no lefs than one hundred and forty principal clothiers living in it at one time; but this manufacture is at prefent very inconfiderable, being removed farther to the weft. It is, however, a very flourifhing town, and contains at leaft eight thoufand inhabitants. Seve- ral of the ftreets are fpacious and handfome. Here are three parifh-churches, dedicated to St. Mary, St. Law- rence, and St. Giles ; three meeting-houfes for diffenters, and one for the Quakers. It has a confiderable country trade, but its chief traffic is to London, fending thither large quantities of malt, meal, and timber ; and receives in return, coals, fait, tobacco, grocery wares, oil, and other neceffary commodities. Reading is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, and twelve burgeffes, by whom, with the commonalty, their reprefentatives are elected. Sir Jacob Aftley had the title of baron of Reading granted him in the reign of Charles I. it was afterwards conferred upon general Ca- dogan, created earl of Cadogan, he. on whofe death it expired. The manor of the town was fettled by king James I. after the death of his queen, on prince Charles his fecond fon, afterwards Charles I. but is now vefted in the corporation. In the year 1643, Reading was befieged and taken by the parliament's forces, commanded by the earl of Effex, confifting of fixteen thoufand foot and three thoufand horfe : Sir Arthur Afton, being governor, with a gar- rifon of three thoufand foot and three hundred horfe. The governor was wounded in the head at the beginning of the fiege, whereupon the command devolved on colonel Richard Fielding. As foon as the king heard the town was inverted, he detached commiffary Wilmot, with a body of horfe, who found means to throw in an auxiliary party of five hundred men, and fome powder; but however, Fielding not thinking this relief fufHcient, demanded to capitulate, and a truce was agreed upon. In the mean time, the king advanced with his army from Oxford to relieve the place, and detached Ruthven, his general, lately created earl of Bath, who, with a thoufand mufqueteers, vigoroufiy fet upon lord Roberts's and Buckeley's regiments, who defended Caverfham- bridge, hoping the garrifon would fecond his attempt, as he was ignorant of the truce 3 but finding lio aftift- ance from them, he retreated to the main armv ; and Fielding found means to wait upon his majefty in the night, told him, he hoped to have liberty to march out with all his arms and baggage, and the king confenting, next day the capitulation was figned, and the town fur- rendered. In the year 1688, an alarm began at Reading, which inftantaneoufly [fpred through the whole kingdom, that the Irifh difbanded foldiers of king James's army were ravaging and murdering wherever they came : every towri believed the next to it was actually in flames; and fuch a pannic was raifed, that every one was up in arms to defend himfelf : this was called the Irijh-cry. About the fame time, was a fkirmifh between a party of the prince of Orange's, and another of king James's troops, iri which the latter were repulfed with little blood-fhed. This fkirmifh gave occafion to the famous ballad of Lil- liburlero, and the day is ftill commemorated by the in- habitants. Within lefs than a furlong to the fouth-weft of this town, and about four hundred yards from the river Ken- net, is a very remarkable natural curiofity, on a rifing ground, called Cats-grove-hill, which is a ftratum of P p p oyfter- 238 BERKS byfter-lhells, on a bed of which water this county. Remarks on the Inland Navigation ^Oxford/hire. The only navigation in this county is that of the Thames, which has been already defcribed in our ac- count of Berkfhire. But an act was pa/Ted in the la ft feflions of parliament, for making a navigable canal to communicate with that making from the city of Co- ventry to the great Stafford/hire navigation ; and to pafs through the feveral pari/hes, hamiets, or places, of Stoke, Binley, Comb, Brinklow, Long Lawford, New- bold, E>rownfover, Clifton, Hillmorton, Barby, Wil- loughby, Braufton, Wolfthamcote, Lower Shuck/burgh, Napton-Priors, Marfton-Priors, Hard wick, Worm- leighton, Fenny Compton, Burton-Daffctt, Warming- ton, Shotfwell, Mollington, Horley, Nethorpe, and Banbury ; and thence through Adderbury, Deddington, North Afton, Middle Afton, Steeple Alton, R.ou/ham, Shipton, Woodftock, Bladen, Begbrook, Yarnton, and Midvercot to the city of Oxford, communicating With the navigation of the river Thames. There is an inexhauftible bed of coals in Warwick- fhire, which, by means of navigable canals, might be brought into circulation, make firing cheaper all over the kingdom, and enable our prefent collieries to ferve foreign markets, without diftre/Ting the poor tradefman and manufacturer in the metropolis and other places. For want of fuch a canal, the collieries in Warwick- Zhire cannot be worked ; becaufe a land-carriage cannot be obtained at any rate, to bring them to market,- Ought this mine of riches to lie buried in the earth, becaufe private intereft cla/hes with public emolument, or fanciful chimeras perplex the brains of fome Ihallow- headed fervants of the public ? Is it not demonftrable, that the prefent high prices of all provifions will be re- duced by the increafed quantity of coals brought to market? It is not necefiary to ftay for an anfwer ; the fact is demonftrable. It is alfo evident, that an increafe of land-carriage (which muft be increafed, or elfe coals from Warwick- fhire, Oxford, Northampton, or Bedford, cannot be had to fupply the demands of the inhabitants) will raife the price of all provifions whatever. People affect to talk about the nurfery for feamen ; but let them confider whether the arguments drawn from that topic are not only in themfelves weak and inconclufive, but really founded upon principles which ftand in direct: oppofitiort to truth ? Whether the high prices of provifions, and particularly of fuel, do not tend to depopulation ? And whether the number of hands now employed in wood- ftealing, hedge-breaking, &c. might not be applied to better purpofes ? Take this maxim into the account, if the king wants fubjects, he muft want feamen. Shall we go further, and fay, whoever oppofes inland navi- gation, virtually oppofes plenty and population? The arguments againft the Coventry canal were chiefly thefe : that it may affect the coafting trade, and fo leflen the number of feamen ; that it may lower the price of Newcaftle coals ; that it will confume a great quantity of land, and muft injure the proprietors over whofe eftates it /hall pafs, and ihat the tonnage will not pay the fubferibers one per cent, for their money. As the laft objection fo manifeftly contradicts the two firft, perhaps the advocates for this navigation will admit it in its utmoft force. Who then can enough applaud the public fpirit of thefe fubferibers, who, at fuch great dis- advantage, are willing to undertake a work for the fake of fupplying their poor neighbours with one of the mo/t important neceflaries of life? But it is hoped the navi- gable canal will prove beneficial even to the undertakers, and will reduce the exorbitant price, not only of New- caftle coals, but even of fuel in general, all over the kingdom. The Newcaftle coals, for their fuperior qualify and fitnefs for particular trades, will always be in demand; and indeed, upon repeated experiments, it hath been proved, that feventy-five pounds of good New- caftle coals will go as far, even in culinary bufinefs, as one hundred and twelve of the beft Wedgeberry. How- ever, the Wedgeberry coals, and thofe from the Co- ventry pits, will anfwer almoft all purpofes (excepting where charcoal is required) better than any fort of wood ; and the deftruction of wood for fuel is, perhaps, one of the moft capital evils which this canal is fure to remedy. Our anceftors made wife laws for the en- couragement of the growth of timber ; but we now find fo good a market for fuel, that we pay little regard to thofe laws, cutting down faplings and young fprigs, even for faggot wood, and planting none but fuch as will foon turn to fuel. So beneficial will the canal be in this particular, that the poor people, who now de- ftroy all the hedges in the country through which it is intended to pafs, will find hedge-breaking a lofing trade, as 244 OXFORDSHIRE. as it is beyond a doubt, that coals at twelve-pence or thirteen-pence a hundred weight, will be cheaper to them than hed^e-wood ftolen. As to the coafting trade, it is apprehended, that thofe who make that objection, little confider the great difadvantage which will lie upon the ne„v navigation, as oppofed to that by fea. Chefhire cheefe, or" which much talk hath been made, will now go to London by fea under the rate of a guinea per ton, and that is lefs by two or three millings than it will coft if it were carried to Oxford for nothing, and thence fent to London by water. The Liverpool trade hath alfo teen mentioned. Merchandize by fea may be fent from thence at lefs than twenty fhillings per ton; where- as, if it be fent to Oxford firft, and afterwards to Lon- don, it will, perhaps, nearly treble that fum. But were it otherwife, are not the public advantages, which are fure to arife from this fcheme, fufficient to counter- balance the inconvenience of fome very few hands be- ing takea from the coafting trade ? We will fuppofe that the place of fome few thoufands of chaldrons of coals (not ten) may be fupplied by means of this canal ; will the lefTening fifty, or threefcore, or even fourfcore hands in the coafting trade, fill us with fuch terrors, as to crufh a fcheme that may preferve thoufands from pe- rifhing ? As to the lofs of land, fo far as it affects pro- prietors, it is intended to be paid for- As it affects the public, let us only confider what an immenfe quantity of hc-rie provender is confumcd for the fupport of that land carriage which this canal is intended to reduce ; and what a multitude of acres will be brought into cul- tivation for wheat and barley, which are now wafted for horfes ; let us alfo confider the immenfe fums of mo- ney paid by the public, for the liberty of travelling in the very worft turnpike roads in the kingdom, and which can never be made good fo long as the great number of heavy carriages are obliged to pafs over them ; and then we may very foon reconcile ourfelves to the lofs of land, which in the mouth of a florid orator may caufe dreadful impremons. As to the damage feared by the proprietors over whofe lands the canal may happen to pafs, fufficient compenfation is made for it. But let private gentlemen confider, nay, let the public confider, that by a more equal diltribution of the people, (the moft certain con- fequence of inland navigation) the more eafy fuperin- duction of manure upon the lands in the vicinage of the canal, the reduction of the price of coals, and thereby of all kinds of labour, thofe lands will not only be raifed greatly in their price, but, what is much more to the purpofe, greatly in their value. The manufacturers and product of the kingdom, the only real riches we have, will be increafed, our poor will be relieved, and our roads once more become paflable. Air, Soil, and natural Productions. The air of Oxfordfhire is equal to that of any county in England ; for the foil is naturally dry, free from bogs, fens, and ftagnant waters, and abounding with quick limpid ftreams, which neceflarily render the air fweet and healthy. The foil, in many places, is very fertile, both in corn and grafs ; but as there is in it a great variety, there is alfo, of confequence, feveral degrees of fruitfulnefs. It abounds with meadows, which are not furpafied by any paftures in England. Here is plenty of excellent river fi'h of various kinds. The other productions of this county are cattle, fruit, free-ftone, and feveral forts of earths ufed in medicine and painting, particularly of yellow ocre, which is found plentifully in the pits on Shottovcr hills, near Oxford. But it is thinly ftrewed with wood, and confequently fuel is very fcarce. Remarks on the Husbandry of Oxfordfhire. The foil, cfpecially in the eaftcrn parts of the county, near Stokenchurch, is all chalk; but the crops of corn in general clean and good. The land lets in that neigh- bourhood at about ten fhillings an acre. Their courfe of hufbandry, with a few accidental exceptions, is, t, fallow; 2. wheat; 3. fpring-corn; 4. clover, two years ; 5. fallow. Three quarters of wheat, five quar- ters of barley, and four quarters of oats per acre, are confidered as middling crops. The prices of labour are as follow : All the year, harveft excepted, one milling a day. In wheat harveft, two fhillings, and beer. Jn barley harveft, one milling and fix-pence, and beer. Reaping wheat, five fhillings per acre. Mowing barley, one fhilling. Oats, ten-pence. Grafs, from one milling and four-pence to one fhilling and fix-pence. They plough with fix horfes, and turn up an acre in a day, fometimes lefs. From Tetford to Oxford, the country is extremely difagreeable, barren, wild, and almoft uninhabited j nor is the hufbandry by any means perfect here. In the neighbourhood of Witney, there is a great variety of foils, fome of which are doubtlefs very rich, as they are let at fifty fhillings and three pounds per acre, while under tillage, which is indeed only, for a year or two, when they are again laid down, when the rent is from twenty to twenty-five fhillings the acre. But in the fame neighbourhood, many inc'ofed fields let at twenty fhillings, and the common fields from feven to twelve fhillings an acre. Their courfe in hufbandry is fomething remarkable ; 1. wheat; 2. beans ; 3. barley ; 4. fallow ; 5. barley ; 6. clover ; with fome variations. They fet their beans with a dibble, and keep them clean by hoeing. They ufe both foot and wheel ploughs, but draw both forts with four horfes. They ufe manure only for wheat and barley crops, and eftimate the pro- duce of their land in proportion to the feed. Wheat they reckon five or fix bufhels for one ; and as they fow three bufhels on an acre, the produce is confequently two quarters, or two and a half ; barley, three quarters ; beans, three and a half. They have no dairies, and feed their hogs in fummer with beans ; fo little are they acquainted with the method of feeding them with, clover. The price of labour is one fhilling per day, during the winter and fpring ; fourteen pence in hay-time; and one fhilling and fix-pence in harveft. Reaping wheat, five fhillings per acre. Mowing foft corn, eight-pence. Beans, one milling and nine-pence ; and grafs, one fhilling and four-pence. Hoeing beans, three fhillings and fix-pence, or four fhillings each time. (Eity, Borough, Market Towns, &c. We entered this county by the Abingdon road, crofting the Thames or Ifis over a ftone bridge, to the city of Oxford, which is finely fituated at the conflux of the Thames and Charwell, fifty-five miles from London. The city of Oxford is governed by a mayor, a high fteward, a recorder, four aldermen, eight affifiants, two bailiffs, a town-clerk, two chamberlains, all that have ferved the office of bailiff and chamberlain, and twenty- four common -councilmen. The mayor, for the time being, officiates at the coronation of our kings, in the buttery, and receives a large gilt bowl and cover for his fee. The magiftracy of Oxford is fubject to the chancellor or vice-chancellor of the univerfity, in all affairs of mo- ment, even thofe relating to the city ; and the vice- chancellor adminifters annually an oath to the magiftrates and flieriffs, that they will maintain the privileges of the univerfity. The mayor, and fixty-two of the chief ci- tizens, alfo pay each one penny every year on the tenth of February, at the church of St. Mary, in lieu of a heavy fine laid on the city in the reign of Edward^II. when fixty-two of the ftudents were murdered by the inhabitants. The city is finely fituated on a rifing ground, the af- cent of which is fo gradual, as hardly to be perceived, and in the midft of a moft beautiful extent of meadows, to the fouth, eaft, and weft, and of corn-fields to the north. The vales on the eaft are watered by the river Charwell, and thofe on the weft and fouth by the main ftream, and feveral branches of the lfis. Both rivers meet towards the fouth-eaft. The landfcape is bounded on every fide, the north excepted, by a range of hills covered O X F O R D S H I R E. covered with woods. The opening to the north admits a free current of frefh air, and entirely removes all the inconveniencies which would otherwife arife from the noxious vapours of a watery fituation. From fome of the furrounding hills, the traveher is furprifed with an unparalleled profpect of magnificence and plenty ; of numerous fpires, domes, and turrets, with the combined charms of verdure, water, and trees. -The foil is a fine gravel ; and on the whole, the fituation is not lefs healthy than agreeable. The private buildings are neat, and the public ones fumptuous. The ftreets are fpacious, clean, and regu- lar, and well fupplied with water by an engine erected on the river Ifis. Here arc fourteen parifh churches, befides the cathe- dral, which, belonging to Chrift-church college, will be defcribed in its proper place. The names of thefe churches are, 1. St. Mary's. 8. St. Mary Magdalen's. 2. All Saints. 9. St. Peter's in the Eaft. 3. St. Martin's, or Carfax. 10. Holiwell. 4. St. Aldate's,orSt. Old's. 1 1. St. Giles's. 5. St. Ebb's. 12. St. Thomas's* 6. St. Peter's in the Bailey. 13. St. John's. 7. St. Michael's. 14. St. Clement's. Only four of the churches belonging to thefe parifhes are worthy obfervation, viz. All Saints, St. Peter's, St. John's, and St. Mary's. The church of All Saints, fituated in the High Street, is an elegant modern ftructure, much in the ftile of many of the new churches in London. It is beautified, both within and without, with Corinthian pilafters, and finifhed with an attic ftory and baluftrade. There is no pillar in the church, which is feventy-two feet long, forty-two wide, and fifty high. The ceiling, altar, pulpit, &c. are finely executed. The fteeple is remark- able, in the modern manner. Its architect, was Dr. Aldrich, formerly dean of Chrift-church. The church of St. Peter in the eaft, {landing near the High Street, was partly built by St. Grymbald, eight hundred years ago ; and is reported to be the firft church cf ftone that appeared in this part of England. ' It was formerly the Univerfity Church ; and even at prefent, with a view of afcertaining their original claim, the Univerfity attend their fermons in it every Sunday in the afternoon during Lent. The tower and eaft end are curious pieces of antiquity. St. John's belongs to Merton College, and will there- fore be defcribed with that ftructure. The church of St. Mary, in which the public fermons ©f the Univerfity are preached on Sundays and holidays, is fituated about the middle of the north fide pf the High Street. It was rebuilt in the reign of Henry VII. as it appears at prefent. It cbnfifts of three ides, with a fpa- cious choir or chancel, which is feparated from the nave by an organ, with its gallery, originally made by Father Smith, and fince improved by Mr. John Byfield. The pulpit is placed in the centre of the middle ifle. At the weft end of the fame ifle is fituated the vice-chancellor's throne, at the foot of which are feated the two proctors. The feats which defcend on either fide, are appointed for the doctors and heads of houfes, and thofe beneath for the young noblemen. The area confifts of benches for the mafters of arts. On the weft end;, with a return to the north and fouth, are galleries for the under-graduates and bachelois of arts. The tower, with its fpire, is a noble and beautiful fabric, one hundred and eighty feet in height, and richly ornamented with pinnacles, niches and ftatues, which, as Plot informs us, were added by King, the firft bifhopof Oxford, in the reign of Hen. VIII. It contains fix remarkably large bells, by which the pro- per notice is given for fcholaftic exercifes, convocations, and congregations. On the fouth fide is a portal, of more modern ftructure, erected by Dr. Morgan, chap- lain to archbifnop Laud, in the year 1637. In the centre of the city is a curious ftructure, called Carfax Conduit, erected by Otho Nicholfon in the reign of James I. The town-hall, fituated in Fifh-ftreet, is a neat and tommodious ftructure, erected partly at the expence of 1 25 the late Thomas Rowney, Eiq; fometime representative, and high fteward of this city. Here is a ftone bridge over the Cherwell, called Mag- danel bridge, fix hundred feet in length, and confuting of twenty arches. In the weftern fuburb is another bridge, called High-bridge, over a branch of the Thames; and near it is another very fine ftone bridge now building over the fame llrcam, for the convenience of a new road now making there. Befides thefe, there is another bridge over the Thames, at the extremity of Fiili-ftreet, and called Folly-bridge. It is alio of ftone, andconfiifa- of three principal arches. On the centre of this bridge is an ancient tower, called Friar Bacon's Study, under which is the road to Abingdon. At a fmall diftance from the city, and facing the road leading to Woodftock and Banbury, is an hofpital, elegantly built of hewn ftone, upon the plan of the county hofpital at Gloucefter. This edifice was erected by the truftees of Dr. Radcliffe's benefaction, out of the furplus money remaining after defraying the expence of his library. The ground w.ts given by Thomas Rowney, Efq; above mentioned. The building was begun in May 1759, and profecuted with remarkable expedition. It is now finifhed, and calculated to hold feventy patients. We fhall now proceed to dtferibe the public buildings, and afterwards the feveral colleges and halls which form the celebrated univerfity of Oxford ; and begin with what is called the New, or Radlivian Library, from its founder, Dr. John Radcliffe, a phyfician of great emi- nence, who left forty thoufand pounds to build a library, for the ufe of the univerfity, with a fala'ry of one hundred and fifty pounds a year to a librarian, and one hundred pounds a year towards furnifhing the library with new books. In confequence of this legacy, the firft ftone of the building was laid on the feventeenth of May, 1737 ; and the library was opened, with great folemnity, on the thirteenth of April 1745, by the name of the New, or Radcliffivian Library. This ftructure is fituated in the m:ddl» of a magnifi- cent fquare, formed by St. Mary's church, the public fchools, and two colleges, one called Brazen Nofe, and the other All Souls. It is a very fumptuous pile of building, erected upon arcades, whicdi, circularly dif- pofed, enclofe a fpacious dome in the centre. From hence we pafs by a well executed flight of fpiral fteps into the library itfelf. This room, which is a complete pattern of elegance and majefty, rifes into a capacious dome, ornamented with fine compartments of ftucco. The pavement is of two colours, and made of a peculiar fpecies of ftone brought from Hartz Foreft in Germany. The room is enclofed by a circular feries of arches, beau- tified with feftoons, and fupported by pilafters of the Ionic order. Behind thefe arches are formed two cir- cular galleries, above and below, where the books are difpofed in elegant cabinets. The compartments of the ceiling, in the upper gallery, are finely ftuccoed. Over the door, at our entrance, is a ftatue of the founder, Dr. Radcliffe, by Ryfbrac, which is molt advanta- geoufly viewed from the point oppofite to it, in the laft mentioned gallery. Over the entrance of one of the galleries is a good buft of Gibbes, the architect. In a word, the finilhing artd decorations of this attic edifice are all in the hig-heft tafte imaginable. The fchools form a magnificent quadrangle. The principal front on the outfide is about one hundred and feventy-five feet in length ; in the centre of which is a noble tower, whofe higheft apartments are appointed for aftronomical obfervations, and other philofophical expe- riments. The infide of this part muft pleafe every lover of ancient grandeur. Three fides of the upper ftory of the quadrangle are one entire room, called the Picture Gallery, the north fide of which is one hundred and twenty-nine feet fix inches ; the eaft fide one hundred and fifty-eight feet fix inches ; and the breadth twenty- four feet fix inches. ' This is chiefly furnifhed with va- luable portraits of founders and benefactors, and of other eminent men ; as alfo with cabinets of medals, and cafes of books. It was wainfeotted by the munificence of Dr. Butler, (he late prefident of Magdalen Cellege, and the late duke of Beaufort. R r r tfht 246 OXFORD The Piflurcs, bfc. in this Gallery are, Sir Thomas Bodley, founder of the public library, in the year 1 507, by Hans Holbein. King Alfred, founder of Univerfity College, in the year 872. John Baliol, and Devorguilla his wife, founders of Baliol College, in the year 1268. Walter de Met ton, bifhop of Rochefter, founder of Merton College, in the year 1274. Walter Stapleton, biftiop'of Exeter, founder of Exeter College, in the year 1316. King Edward II. founder of Oriel College, in the year 1327. Robert Egglesfield, confeffor to queen Philippa, founder of Queen's College, in the year 1340. William of Wickham, high chancellor of England, founder of New College, in the year 1379. Richard Flemming, bifhop of Lincoln, and Thomas Rotheram, archbifhop of York, founders of Lincoln College, in the year 1429. Henry Chichley, archbifhop of Canterbury, founder of All-Souls College, in the year 1437. William Wainfleet, bifhop of Wincheftcr, founder of Magdalen, in the year 1456. William Smith, bifhop of Lincoln, and Richard Sut- ton, Efq; founders of Brazen Nofe College, in the year 151 1. Richard Fox, bifhop of Winchefter, founder of Corpus Chrifti College, in the year 1516. King Henry VIII. founder of Chrift-church College, in the year 1525. Sir Thomas Pope, founder of Trinity College, in the year 1554, by Holbein. Sir Thomas White, alderman of the city of London, founder of St. John's College, in the year 1557. Queen Elizabeth, founder of Jefus College, in the year 1571. Nicholas Wadham, Efq; and Dorothy his wife, founders of Wadham College, in the year 1613. Thomas Tyfdale, Efq; and Richard Wightwick, S. T. P. founders of Pembroke College, in the year 1620. Sir Thomas Cooke, Bart, founder of Worcefter Col- lege, in the year 17 14. Henry IV. of France, on horfeback, on copper. John Selden, Efq; benefactor to the library. Ifaac Fuller, a painter, by himfelf. John Harmer, M. D. A buft of John duke of Marlborough. A ftatue of William earl of Pembroke, chancellor of the univerfity of Oxford in king James I.'s time, and Charles I. in brafs, defigned by Peter Paul Rubens. Francis Cherry, Efq; Mr. Dodwell, the hiftorian. Dr. Alleftree, canon of Chrift-church. John Bagford, collector of books for lord Oxford. Francifcus Junius, a fine fketch of Vandyke's. Lord Crew, bifhop of Durham, a great benefactor, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. King Charles II. and queen Catharine, by Sir Peter Lely. James, duke of York, and his dutchefs, by ditto. Sir Jofeph Williamfon, fecretary of ftate in king Charles II. 's time, by Sir Peter Lely. Cardinal Howard, the late Englifh cardinal. Abraham Cowley, a famous poet. Sir George Mackenzie, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, Martin Luther. Sir William Dugdale, author of the Antiquities of Warwickfhire, &c. Sir Thomas Overbury, poifoned in the Tower in king James I.'s time, by Cornelius Johnfon. Dr. King, principal of St. Mary Hall, by Williams. Samuel Butler, author of Hudibras, by Sir Peter Lely. Matthew Prior, by Richard forr. Mr. John Locke, by Gibfon. Johannes Duns Scotus, called Doctor Subtilis, by Spagnoletti. The Rev. Thomas Baker, of St. John's College, Cambridge. Dr. Rawlinfon, a great antiquarian. SHIRE. Jofeph Pullen, vice-principal of Magd. Hall, by Bing. Sir Peter Griffinfield, chancellor of Denmark. James Hyde, M. D. principal of Magd. Hal!. Thomas White, S. T. P. founder of the lecture in moral philofcphy. Dr. Samuel Clarke, reclor of St. James's, London. A profpect of Antwerp. Nathanael Wanley. Lord Cowper, chancellor of England. Salomon Negri, of Damafcus. Francis Atterbury, bifhop of Rochefter. Dr. Pocock, canon of Chrilt church, profefforof the oriental languages. Dr. Jane, canon of Chrifl-church, Lord chief juftice Raymond, full length, by Van- derbank. Dr. Trapp. Mr. Creech. Dr. Hody, benefactor to Wadham College. Sir Henry Spelman. Dr. John Wilkins, bifhop of Chefter. Mr. Zucchero, a famous painter, by himfelf. S ir Richard Toml ins, founder of the Anatomy Lecture. Tycho Brahe, aftronomer. Dr. Flamftead, aftronomer, by Gibfon. Dr. Halley, ditto, by Murray. Hevelius, aftronomer of Dantzick, by Andrew Stech. John Ogilby. John Bainbridge, profeffor of aftronomy. John Taylor, the water poet, by Taylor. Mr. Weichman, a German poet. God's covenant with Noah, by Sebaftian Bourdons. William of Naffau, the firft prince of Orange. Prince Maurice of Orange. Patrick Ruthuen, earl of Brentford. King William and queen Mary, full length, by Sif Godfrey Kneller. The Seven Vices on copper, viz. Pride, Luft, Sloth, Drunkennefs, Revenge, Avarice, & Envy, by Schalcken. Very good, but placed where it is impoffible to fee them. A ftatue of Venus de Medicis, at Florence, in plaifter of Paris. A ftatue of Apollo Belvidere, taken from the original at Rome, in plaifter of Paris. A buft of Marcus Tullius Cicero. A buft of Phocion. A buft of Ariftides. A buft of Zeno. Van Trump, a Dutch admiral. Lord Cottington, in king Charles I.'s time. Dr. Wallis, full length, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. George Buchanan, a Scotch hiftorian, tutor to king James I. Mr. Prynn, in king Charles I.'s time. A fine large piece of our Saviour's firft appearance to his difciples after his refurrection. Jordaens. A fine reprefentation of various kinds of fruit. A mathematical piece, with books of navigation, and; a pair of globes. A Dutch gardener, with two boys ftealing fruit out of his bafket, by old Frank Hall. Hadrian Beverland, a Dutch writer, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. The Englifh fleet, in king Charles II. 's time, com- manded by the duke of York, a curious large piece, by Phillips. A fine defcription of a ftorm at fea, by Willarts. The Rev. Dr. John King, mafter of the Charter- houfe, full length. A fine piece of Mofesftriking the rock, Jordaens. A Dutch fea-piece, with the profpect of a town. A fine Dutch fifh-market, by Willarts. Three fine old pieces of St. Andrew, St. Peter, and St. Paul. Dr. Potter, archbifhop of Canterbury, full length, by Hudfon. Sir Charles Chardin, a great traveller, by Dandridge. John Anftis, garter king at arms. The earl of Dorfet, by Richardfon. George Clifford, earl of Cumberland, in king Hen- ry VIL's time. Thomas OXFORDSHIRE. 247 Thomas Fermor, earl of Pomfret, and his wife, both in one piece, full length, by Bardwell. Mr. Addifon, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Margaret Ruffel, countefs of Cumberland, in king Henry VII. 's time. Theodorus Haalce. Andrews, bifhop of Winchefter. The late earl of Abingdon's father, full length, by Doll. Michael Angelo, a famous painter, by Walker. Richard Vaughan, bifhop of London. Dr. Jane, canon of Chrift-church. Geoffrey Chaucer. Dr. Aldrich, dean of Chrift-church, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Dr South, canon of Chrift-church. Dr. Hough, bifhop of Worcefter. Sir Godfrey Kneller, by himfelf. James Gibbs, architect. Dr. Newton, principal of Hertford College. Samuel Clarke, a great linguift. The earl of Strafford, in king Charles I. 's time, by Vandyke. Laurence earl of Rochefter, lord Clarendon's fon, by Sir Peter Lely. Sir John Hawkins, rear-admiral in queen Eliza- beth's time. Our Saviour making himfelf known by breaking of bread to his difciples at Emmaus ; on copper, by P. P. Rubens. James Sherley, a poet. A buft of Sir Chriftopher Wren, by Edward Pierce. The Fair Maid of the Inn at Infpruck, copied from Rufalla, by Kirkhall, fenior. Dr. Stradford. Mifs Harley. Mifs Squire. Mr. Dodfon, painter. The lady Windfor's daughter. The prefent lady Limfter, 1722. Count Oxenftiern, a Swede. Michael, lord of Montaigne. Sir Hans Sloane, full length, by Richardfon. Dr. Dillenius, late profeffor of botany in the univer- fity of Oxford. Monfieur Balzac, a French writer. Charles XII. king of Sweden, full length, by Schroder. The late king of Pruflia, full length. Dean Swift, by Jarvis. Ben Johnfon. Sheffield, duke of Buckingham, full length, by Richardfon. Alexander Pope, by Jarvis. John Dryden. William Bromley, Efq; fpeaker of the Houfe of Commons in queen Anne's time, by Doll. Dr. Ratcliffe, a great benefactor to the Univerfity, by Doll. Thomas Willis, M. D. John Speed, the hiftorian. John Fox, author of the book of Martyrs. Hugo Grotius. Sir Thomas Wyatt, in queen Mary's time. Sir Henry Saville, founder of the aftronomy, and geometry profefforfhips ; provoft of Eaton, and warden of Merton College, in queen Elizabeth's time, full length. Sir Francis Drake. Abraham Cowley, when he was old, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Nicholas Harpsfield, archdeacon of Canterbury, in queen Mary's time. Archbifhop Sheldon, founder of the theatre. Lord Clarendon, author of the Hiftory of the Re- bellion. Archbifliop Laud, chancellor of the Univerfity. James, duke of Ormond, by Ryley. Sir Kenelm Digby, by Vandyke. Robert Dudley, earl of Leicefter, in queen Eliza- beth's time. A fine head of our Saviour, A fine head of king Charles I. Mr; Selden, a great benefactor to the Bodleian library. The earl of Kildare, in Henry VIII.'s time. The earl of Pembroke, chancellor of the Univerfity $ in king James I.'s time, full length. Cardinal Wolfey, an original. Archbifhop Cranmer. Thomas Egerton, chancellor of England, and of the Univerfity. Sir Thomas Sackvilie, earl of Dorfet, and chancellor of the Univerfity. Hieronymus Wefton, earl of Portland, in king Charles I.'s time. Lady Betty Paulett, an ingenious lady of the duke of Bolton's family, in king James I.'s time, drawn in adrefs of her own work, full length. Burleigh, treafurer in queen Elizabeth's time. Charles earl of Arran, iate chancellor of the Univer- fity, full length, by Sir James Thornhill. James duke of Ormond, chancellor of the Univerfity^ in queen Anne's time, full length, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Under the Picture Gallery are the fchools of the fe- veral fciences, in one of which are placed the Arundelian marbles ; and in another, that ineftimable collection of ftatues, &c. lately prefented to the Univerfuy by the countefs of Pomfret; a complete catalogue of which we have here fubjoined, as they ftand refpedtively numbered in their prefent repofitory. 1 A ftatue of a Grecian lady, 7 feet high, wants arms. 2 A ditto of Archimedes, 7 feet 2 inches high, wants an arm. 3 A ditto of a Roman emperor, 7 feet high, wants one arm and the nofe. Perhaps modern. 4 A ditto of Minerva, 9 feet high. 5 A ditto ©f a Roman emperor, 7 feet high, wants one arm. Perhaps modern. 6 A ditto of Cicero in the proper habit, 6 feet 9 inches high. — The drapery very mafterly. He has the Su- darium in the right, and a fcroll in the left hand. The character of the countenance, Settled Indigna- tion, in which he feems preparing to fpeak. 7 A ditto of a Grecian lady, 7 feet high, wants arms^ The drapery falling over the right leg is finely conducted. 8 A column from the temple of Apollo at Delphos, with the capital and bafe ; and an Apollo placed at the top, 24 feet 6 inches high. 9 A ftatue of Sabina, 6 feet 9 inches high. I© A Venus de Medicis. 11 A fquare Roman altar, 1 foot 6 inches, by 1 foot 3. 12 Terminus of Pan, 5 feet 7 inches high, wants anarm. 13 A ftatue of Minerva, 5 feet high, wants an arm and the nofe. 14 A circular Roman altar, 2 feet 4 inches high. 15 A ftatue of a woman, 6 feet high, wants arms, and part of the nofe. 16 A Venus cloathed. 17 A circular Roman altar, 2 feet 6 inches high. 18 A ftatue of Clio fitting, 4 feet 6 inches high, wants- one arm and hand. 19 A circular Roman altar, 2 feet 4 inches high. 20 A ftatue of a young Dacian, 4 feet 3 inches high— Perhaps Paris. It is of great antiquity. 21 A Roman altar, 2 feet 4 inches high. 22 A ftatue of Antinous, 5 feet 6 inches high, wants a finger of the right hand. 23 A Grecian lady, 4 feet 8 inches high, wants an arm. 24, A ftatue of Jupiter and Leda, 3 feet io inches high, " wants arms. 25 An antique capital, 1 foot 6 inches, by 2 feet, wants a corner. 26 A circular pedeftal finely ornamented with heads and feftoons of fruit, 3 feet, by 1 foot 3 inches diameter. 27 A ftatue of Scipio Africanus, or Demofthenes, 7 feet hi^h. — The drapery in a very boldftyle. It is pro- bably of fome orator ; the right hand being laid on the breaft, in a perfuafive pofture. 28 A ditto of a woman cloathed, 3 feet 8 inches, want3 a head. 29 A trunk OXFORD SHIRE. 29 A trunk of a woman, 2 feet 1 inch high. 30 A boy with his finger in his mouth, 2 feet 5 inches hi £ h - 31 A ftatue of Jupiter fitting, 3 feet high, wants ft hand. 32 A ditto of a woman, 3 feet 4 inches high. 33 The trunk of a woman, 2 feet 1 inch high. 34 Germanicus'stomb, 7 feet by 1 foot 8. 35 Two capitals with beafts heads, 2 feet 3 inches high. 36 An ./Egyptian chair:, 2 feet 5, by 1 foot 8. — Belong- ing to a pi left of Ifis and Ofirist 37 A ftone carved with a claw at the end, 2 feet 7 by 2 feet 6. 38 A ftatue of a Roman conful, 7 feet high, wants a hand and fingers of the other. 39 A ditto of a woman, 4 feet high, wants the head. 40 A ditto of Flora, 3 feet 10 inches. 41 A ditto of Hercules, 4 feet high, wants hands. 42 A ditto of Diana, 4 feet 8 inches high, wants arms. 43 A ditto of Cupid flecping, 5 feet 6 inches high. — The Lizard may be a device for the name of the fculptor, unlefs allegorical. 44 A ditto of Venus half naked, 4 feet high. 45 A circular altar, 2 feet 6 inches high. 46 A ftatue of Melpomene fitting, 4 feet high. — Perhaps it is Agrippina, in the character of Melpomene. 47 A circular Roman altar, 2 feet 10 inches high. 48 A Grecian lady, 4 feet 8 inches high, wants arms. 49 A circular Roman altar, 2 feet 8 inches high. 50 A ftatue of Camilla, 6 feet 5 inches high. 5 1 A ditto of a Grecian philofopher, 5 feet high, wants the right arm. ^2 A circular Roman altar, 2 feet 2 inches high. 53 A ftatue of Caius Marius, 6 feet high. — It has a noble fevcrity. 54 A ftatue of Bacchus naked, 4 feet 2 inches high. — A delicate piece of fculpture. The hand is added with much addrefs by Guelphi, from whom are all the modern additions. 55 A circular Roman altar, 2 feet 2 inches high. 56 A ftatue of Julia, 6 feet 9 inches high, wants the arms. 57 A Roman fathom, 6 feet 10 inches by 2 feet. 58 A Sphynx, 5 feet 8 inches long. 59 A ditto fomewhat lefs. 60 A facrifice, 2 feet 3 by 2 feet. 61 A bafib relievo of a Dacian's facrifice, 2 feet, by 2 feet 4. 62 Part of a facrifice, 1 foot 8 inches by 1 foot 2. 63 A naked trunk of an hermaphrodite. 64 BalTo relievo, 1 foot io inches by 1 foot 3. 65 Baffo relievo of afhepherd, 2 feet by 1 1 inches, 66 A Bacchanalian, 2 feet 3 inches by 2 feet. 67 A woman's head, 1 foot 6 inches high, wants a nofe. 68 The trunk of a man, 2 feet 2 inches. 69 A trunk of a woman fitting, 2 feet 7 inches. 70 A confular trunk, 5 feet 6 inches high. 71 A trunk of a woman fitting, 2 feet 7 inches. 72 A buft of a Roman, 1 foot 6 inches high, wants a nofe. 73 The head of a man, 1 foot high, wants a nofe. 74 A trunk of V enus naked, 1 foot 10 inches high. 75 An old man's head. 76 A man's inead, 10 inches high, wants the nofe. 77 Part of a head and neck, 1 foot 6 inches high. 78 An old man's head. 79 A ftatue of a ycung fatyr, 2 feet 6 inches high. 80 A naked trunk of a man, 2 feet 6 inches high. 81 Beafts devouring men. — It is the pcdeftal of a table. Scylla and Charybdis are reprefented devouring ma- riners, whofe attitudes are extremely fine. 82 A trunk of a woman, 2 feet 8 inches high. 83 Part of a man's foot. 84 A naked trunk of a man, 2 feet 6 inches high. 85 Part of two mafks, 2 feet 5 inches by 1 foot 9. 86 A lion, 3 feet 10 inches long. 87 An alabafter urn, 2 feet 8 inches high. 88 A farcophagus, 5 feet 2 inches by 1 foot 6. 89 A ftatue of Judith, 4 feet 6 inches high. 90 A ditto of Hercules choaking a lion. — Few figures have greater fpirit. On the rock adjoining feems to have been the figure of a woman, perhaps of a Mufe finging the achievement to her harp. 91 A farcophagus with boys, 4 feet by 1 foot 4. 92 A fea-lion, 3 feet 6 inches long, 2 feet 4 inches high. 93 Dogs and a boar, 2 feet long. 94 A fleeping Cupid, 2 feet 5 inches. 95 A farcophagus, 2 feet 3 inches by 1 foot. 96 A baffo relievo Roman repaft, 2 feet by 1 foot 7. 97 A trunk of a woman, 2 feet high. 98 Soldiers fighting, 1 foot 11 inches by 2 feet 3. 99 Soldiers fighting, 3 feet 1 1 by i foot 3. 100 A trunk of a young man, 1 foot 11. 101 The triumph of Amphytrion, 2 feet by 2 feet. 102 A trunk of a woman fitting, 1 foot 3 inches hio-h. 103 The taking of Troy, 7 feet by 11 inches.— The figures executed with amazing exprefllon. 104 Boys embracing, 2 feet 3 inches by 1 foot 6. 1 05 The Herculean games, 2 feet 3 inches by 2 feet. 106 Boys, 2 feet by 1 foot. 107 A woman and a child fitting in a fquare nich, 1 foot 9 inches by 1 foot 7. 108 A Roman monument with three bulls, 3 feet 10 inches by 2 feet 3. 109 Part of a Roman monument, no Ditto. 1 1 1 Buft of a Roman head. 112 Ditto. 113 A Roman buft. 1 14 A buft of Fauna. 115 A ditto of Fauns. 1 16 The buft of a young man, 1 17 A ditto of Diana. 118 Ditto of a Grecian. 119 Ditto of a woman cloathed. 120 Ditto of a philofopher. 121 Philofophy, a buft. 122 A buft of Niobe. 123 Ditto of one of her fons. 124 Ditto of Venus de Medicis. 125 Ditto of a woman cloathed. 126 A buft cloathed, wants the head. 127 Ditto. 128 Ditto. 129 Ditto. 130 A buft naked, head wanting. 131 Buft of an old man, half naked. 132 Ditto of a Roman. 133 Buft of Henry VIII. Modern. 134 Ditto (modern) of Rob. C. Pal. Rhen. D. Bav, 1637, JEtat. ij. 135 A coloffal head of Apollo. The firft ftone of the fchools was laid March 30th, 1613; and the building was carried on at the combined expence of many benefactors. The Bodleian or Public Library is a part or member of the laft-mentioned edifice. It confifts of three fpa- cious and lofty rooms, difpofed in the form of the Ro- man H. The middle room was erected by Humphrey, duke of Gloucefter, over the Divinity-fchool, about the year 1440, and by him furnifhed with books, all which have been fince loft. The gallery on the weft fide was raifed at the expence of the Univerfity, under the chancellorfhip of archbifhop Laud, together with the Convocation Houfe beneath. The veftibule, or firft: gallery, with the profcholium under it, was built by Sir Thomas Bodley, who furnifhed the whole with a col- lection made with prodigious care and expence. He likewife afligned an eftate for the maintenance cf a libra- rian, &c. and the fupportof a public fund for the Library, adding a body of ftatutes, for the regulation of his new inftitution. By thefe fervices he juftly deferved the name of the Founder of the Library. He died on the twenty-eighth of January, 1612. The original ftock has been greatly enriched by the acceffion of many valuable collections of manufcripts, particularly Greek and Oriental ; befides large additions of choice and ufeful books, from various donations. The principal benefactors have been the earl of Pem- broke, archbifhop Laud, Sir Thomas Roe, Sir Kcnelm Digby, OXFORDSHIRE. M9 jPjoty, general Fan-rax, Dr. Marfhal, Dr. Barlow, Dr? Rawlinfon, Mr. St. Amand, &C, The library is now in a very flourifhing condition, which it is likely to preferve and improve^ under the management of the pre- sent vigilant and learned librarian. It may be proper to take notice here, that the Bod- leian Library, and Pidure Gallery, can only be feen from ei»ht to eleven in the morning ; and in the after- noon, between one and four^ from Michaelmas to Lady- day ; and between two and five from Ladyday to Mi- chaelmas. In this library are the following pictures: Sir Thomas Bodley, the founder of the library. The head librarians of the Bodleian Library — Dr. James, Dr. Roufe, Dr. Barlow bifhop of Lincoln, Dr. Locke'y, canon of Chrift-church, Dr. Hyde, Dr. Hud- fon, and Mr. Bowles. St. Jerom. Marcus Tullius Cicero. Lord Crew, bifhop of Durham. Sir Kenelm Digby. Bifnop Andrews. Hugo Grotius. Jofeph Scaliger. Galileo, a famous aftronomer. Father Paul. Sir Thomas More, chancellor of England, done by his niece, Maria More. Erafmus, by Hans Holbein. Bochart. Mr.Selden, benefactor to the Bodleian Library, done by Sir Peter Lely. Dr. Pocock, canon of Chrift church. Archbifhop Ufher. Dr. Hicks. Humphrey Wanley, librarian to the old earl of Ox- ford, by Hill. King James I. King Charles I. and his queen. Henry prince of Wales, king Charles I.'s elder brother. Princefs Elizabeth, palatine queen of Bohemia, filter to king Charles I. King Charles II. when a boy. Lord Falkland, who was killed in the civil wars. Margaret countefs of Richmond, mother to Henry VII. Lady Jane Grey. A fine buft of Sir Thomas Bodly, the founder of the library. A fine buft of king Charles I. On the Stair-cafe. Sir Martin Frobifher, a famous admiral in queen Elizabeth's time, lfaac Cafaubon. Dr. Coney, M. D. A fouth profpect of Oxford, by Summers. Our Saviour and the woman of Samaria. Scaliger. James Zarabella. Mr. Taylor, a poet. Charity. Hope. Piety. Having vifited the Library, we fhould not neglect the Divinity School, which ftands under the fame roof. It was begun at the expence of the Univerfity, A. D. 1427, and afterwards completed, with its fuperftructure, by duke Humphrey. Its ceiling is a moft finifhed piece of Gothic mafonry, both in defign and execution ; and on the whole, it is probably the moft complete Gothic room in this kingdom. At the end of it is the Convo- cation Houfe, which is a fpacious room, commodioufly furnifhed, and handfomely decorated. It was built, with its fuperftructure, A. D. 1639. Oppofite to the Divinity School ftands the front of the Theatre, adorned with Corinthian pillars, and two ftatues of archbifhop Sheldon and the duke of Ormond, with other decorations. At our entrance the mind is 25 ftrongly and fuddenly (truck with ideas of majefty and beauty. But this room exhibits the moft auguft ap- pearance, when properly filled. It is equally difpofed to contain, and fhew to advantage, a large and folemn afferobly. The vice-chancellor, with the two proctors* are feated in the centre of the fcmicircular part; on each hand are the young noblemen and doctors ; the mafters of arts in the area : the reft of the Univerfity, and ftrangers of both fexes^ are placed in the galleries. The roof ii flat, and not being fupported either by columns or arch-work, refts on the fide-walls, which are at the diftance of eighty feet one way, and feventy the other.. This roof is covered with allegorical painting, of which the following explication is here inferted, from Dr. Plot's Natural Hiftory of Oxfordfhire. ' In imitation of the theatres of the ancient Greeks and Romans, which were too large to be covered with lead or tile, fo this, by the painting of the fiat roof within,* is reprefented open ; and as they ftretched a cordage from pilafter to pilafter, upon which they ftrained a covering of cloth, to protect the people from the injuries of the weather, fo here is a cord-mouldini'- gilded, that reaches crofs and crofs the houfe, both in length and breadth, which fupporteth a great reddifh drapery, fuppofed to have covered the roof, but now furled up by the Genii round about the houle, towards the wall, which difcovereth the open air, and maketh way for the defcent of the Arts and Science?, that are congregated in a circle of clouds, to whofe aH'emblv Truth defcends, as being folicited and implored by them all. ' For joy of this feftival fome other Genii fport about the clouds, with their feftoons of flowers and laurels, and prepare thrir garlands of laurels and rofes, viz. Honour and Pleafure, for the great lovers and ftudents of thofe arts : and that this aflembly might be perfectly happy, their great enemies and difturbers, Envy, Ra- pine, and Brutality, are by the Genii of their oppofite virtues, viz. Prudence, Foititude, and Eloquence, driven from the fociety, and thrown headlong from the clouds. The report of the aflembly of the one, and the expulfion of the other, being proclaimed through the open and ferene air, by fome other of the Genii, who blowing their antic trumpets, divide themfelves into the feveral quarters of the world. — Hitherto in grofs* More particularly, the circle of figures confifts, ' Firft, of Theology, with her book of feven feals im- ploring the afliftance of Truth for the unfolding of it. ' On her left hand is the Mofaical Law veiled, with the table of ftone, to which fhe points with her iron rod. ' On her right hand is the Gofpel, with the crofs in one hand, and a chalice in the other. * In the fame divifion, over the Mofaical Law, is Hiftory, holding up her pen, as dedicating it to Truth, and an attending Genius, with feveral fragments of old writings, from which fhe collects her hiftory into her book. ' On the other fide, near the Gofpel, is Divine Poefy, with her harp of David's fafhion. * In the triangle on the right hand of the Gofpel, is alfo Logic, in a pofture of arguing; and on the left hand of the Mofaical Law is Mufic, with her antic lyre, having a pen in her hand, and a paper of mufic notes on her knee, with a Genius on her right hand, (a little within the partition of Theology) playing on a flute, being the emblem of ancient mufic. * On the left (but within the partition for Phyfic) Dramatic Poefy, with a vizard, reprefenting Comedy, a bloody dagger for Tragedy, and the reed pipe for Paftoral. * In the fquare on the right fide of the circle, is Law, with her ruling fceptre, accompanied with records, patents, and evidences, on the one fide, and on the other with Rhetoric. By thefe is an attending Ge- nius, with the fcales of Juftice, and a figure with a palm-branch, the emblem of reward for virtuous ac- tions; and the Roman Fa fees, the marks of power and punifhment. S s s « Printing, i;o OXFORD 4 Printing, with a cafe of letters in one hand, and a ' form ready fet in the other, and by her feveral meets * hanging as a drying. ' On che left fide the circle, oppofite to Theology, 1 in three fquares, are the Mathematical Sciences, (de- * pending on Demonftration, as the other on Faith) in 4 the h it of which is Aftronomy with the celeftial * globe, Geography with the terreftrial, together with * three atLendir.g Genii, having Arithmetic in the fquarc s on one hand, with a paper of figures ; Optics with the * pcripective glafs ; Geometry with a pair of compares * in her left ; and a table with geometrical figures in it, * in her right hand. And in the fquare on the other * hand, Architecture embracing the capital of a column, * with companies, and the Norma or fquare lying by ' her, and a workman holding another fquare in one 4 hand, and a plumb-line in the other. ' in the midft of thefe fquares and triangles (as de- * fcending from above) is the figure of Truth fitting as * on a cloud, in one hand holding a palm-branch (the * emblem of Victory) in the other the fun, whofe 1 brightnefs enlightens the whole circle of figures, and * is fo bright, that it feems to hide the face of herfelf to ' the fpectators below. ' Over the entrance of the front of the Theatre, are ' three figures tumbling down ; firft, Envy, with her ' fnaky hairs, fquint eyes, hag's breaft, pale venomous * complexion, ftrong, but ugly limbs, and riveled fkin, * frighted from above by the fight of the fhield of Pallas, ' with the Gorgon's head in it, againft which fhe op- ' pofes her fnaky trefles, but her fall is fo precipitous, * that fhe has no command of her arms. * Then Rapine, with her fiery eyes, grinning teeth, * (harp twangs, her hands imbrued in blood, holding a * bloody dagger in one hand, in the other a burning * flambeau ; with thefe inftruments threatening the de- * ftruction of Learning, and all its habitations, but is 4 prevented by an Herculean Genius, or Power. 4 Next that is reprefented brutifh, fcofEng Ignorance, 4 endeavouring to vilify and contemn what fhe under- 4 ffands not, which is charmed by a Mercurial Genius 4 with his Caduceus.' The allegorical pictures on the ceiling, above ex- plained, were done by Streater, ferjeant painter to king Charles II. but the colours, as well as the canvas, hav- ing been greatly injured by time, the work was cleaned and repaired in 1762, by Mr. Kettle, an ingenious por- trait painter of London; at which time the whole infide was alfo decorated with new gilding, painting, and other ornaments, at the expence of one thoufand pounds ; fo that this is now univerfally allowed to be the molt fuperb and fplendid room in Europe. Befides the ceiling, the room is furnifhed with three admirable full-length portraits of archbifhop Sheldon, the duke of Ormond, above-mentioned, and SirChrifto- pher Wren. Nor fhould we forget to mention a good ftatue of Charles II. on the outfide of the circular part ; the edifice being fomewhat in the form of a Roman D. This beautiful ftructure was erected from the defign of Sir Chriftopher Wren, A. D. 1669, at the expence of archbifhop Sheldon, then chancellor ; who having bellowed fifteen thoufand pounds in building it, endowed it with two thoufand pounds, to purchafe lands for its perpetual repair. In the Theatre are celebrated the public acts ; and the annual commemoration of benefactors to the Uni- verfity on the fecond of July, inftituted by the late lord Crew, b'fhop of Durham, with fome other folemnities. WelKvard of the Theatre ftands the Afhmolean Mu- feum, fo called from its founder, E'.ias Afhmole, Efq; Windfor herald in the reign of Charles II. This muni- ficent patron of learning, in the year 1677, made an offer to bellow upon the Univerfity all the rarities he had purchafed from the two Tradefcants, fucceflively phyfic-gardeners at Lambeth ; together with his own collection of coins, MSS, &c. on condition that they fhould build a fabric for their reception. The building was accordingly erected, and finifhed in the year 16S2, under the cpnduct of Sir Chriftopher Wren. It is in- ferior to no modern edifice in point of fymmetry and i H I R F. elegance. Its front towards the ftrcef is about fixty feet in leng.h. The eaftern portico is remarkably Well finifhed in the Corinthian order, and adorned with va- riety of charadbriftieal emb^lhihment.-. This piece of architecture is defervedly rcckontd equal to any in the Univerfity; though, like many others, it is fo much crowded by the neighbouring buildings, that the fpec- tator cannot convnand a proper view of it. In purfuance of his promile, Aihmole prefented to the Univerfr.y a large and valuable collection of natural bodies, together with his coins and manufcripts; he alfo bequeathed at his death three gold chains, one of philigrain work, confifting of fixty links, weighing twenty- two ounces, with a medal of t h e duke of Bran- denburgh ; the other a coliar of S's, with a medal of the king of Denmark ; and the third a chain of equal weight and value, with a medal of the emperor Jofeph ; all which he had received as honorary prefents on occafion oi his book concerning the order of the garter. The Mufeum has been greatly enriched fince its firft foundation, by feveral ample tfnd valuable benefactions* The chief natural curiofities are, a large collection of bodies, horns, bones, &c. of animals, preferved dry, or in fpirits ; numerous fpecimens of minerals and metals; fhells, efpecially thofe of Dr. Martin Lifter, together with his ores, foflils, &c. many of which are delcribed in the Philofophical Tranfactions, or in the pieces pub- lifhed by that ingenious naturalift. It contains alfo a fmall, but well chofen collection of exotic plants, fent from the Eaft Indies by James Pound, M. B. But it has been chiefly indebted to the care and munificence of its two firft keepers, Dr. Robert Plott, and Mr. Edward Lhwyd ; the former of which gave ail the natural bodies mentioned in his hiftories of the counties of Stafford and Oxon, and the latter the large collections he had made in his travels through the oreateft part of England, Wales, and Ireland. A catalogue of many of thefe was publifhed by himfelf, elegantly adorned with copper-plates, in the year 1699, under the title of Lithophylacii Britannici Ichnographia. To thefa valuable treafures a great addition has lately been made by the Rev. William Borlafc, who prefented to the Uni- verfity all the fpecimens of cryftals, mundicks, coppers, tins, &c. defcribed in his Natural Hiftory of Cornwall ; which prefent he alfo accompanied with his manufcript copy of the hiftory, and the original drawings. Amongft the curiofities of nature muft be reckoned the large magnet given to the Mufeum by the Right Hon. the countefs of Weftmoreland, the lady of our late chancellor. It is of an oval fhape, its longer diameter eighteen inches, its fhorter twelve, and fupports a weight of one hundred and forty-five pounds. It is enclofed in an elegant cafe of mahogany, - made at his lordfhip's ex- pence, and may juftly be deemed one of the greateft or- naments, as well as rarities of this place. Nor is this repofitory deficient in a good collection of antiquities ; fuch as urns, ftatucs, facrifical vefTels and utenfils ; it being poflefled of moft of thofe defcribed in the Britannia, by bifhop Gibfon, p. 695, 1022. Here are alfo many Grecian, Roman, and Saxon coins, the gift of the founder, and Thomas Brathwaite, Efq. Amongft the works of art, a model of a fhip given by Dr. Clark, and a picture representing our Saviour going to his crucifixion, made of feathers, deferve particular notice ; alfo a very ancient piece of St. Cuthbert, made by order of king Alfred, and worn, as is fuppofed, by that monarch. This ftructure is alfo decorated with the following paintings : James VI. of Scotland, when a youth. Lady Molineux. Richard Napier, M. D. Ben Johnfon. John Dee. William Lilly. Edward lord Wotton of Mailey, Thomas Parr. Oliver Cromwell. Charles I. Inigo Jones. Cardinal Richlieu. CrcmwelL o V A. FORDSHIRE. 25* Cromwell, earl of" EfTeX. Elizabeth Woodville, queen of Edward IV., "Thomas* duke of Norfolk, by Vandyke. Thomas, earl of Arundel, by ditto. Sir John Suckling* Le Neve, a painter, Oliver de Cratys, a painter, Michael Bu ck, a poor knight of Windfor. Earl of Manchefter, chancellor of Cambridge. Lewis XI. of France. St. Jerom 4 John, king of France, made a prifoner at the battle of Poictiers. Dobfon the painter's wife, by Dobfon. Edward V. Henry duke of Gloucefter. John Selden, Efq; John Lewen, a celebrated comedian. Charles I. when young. Mary Davis, a woman who had horns growing on the hinder part of her head. Hadrian Beverland, in miniature. Charles T. in miniature. Sir John Tradefcant, junior. His firft wife, fon and daughter. His fecond wife and fon. Sir John Tradefcant, fenior, in old age. Another, drawn after his death. Sir John Tradefcant, junior, with his friend Zithepfa, a quaker of Lambeth. The fame, with his wife Robert Plot, LL D. the firft keeper of the Mufeum. E.ias Alhmole, Efq; founder of the Mufeum. A dead Chrift, by Hannibal Uaracci. Charles II. James II. A drawing of John Aubrey, Efq; by Faithorne. A reprefentation of the battle of Pavie, 1525. An emblematical painting of the deftruction of the aris, &c. by the Goths. The defcent of Chrift into hell, by Brughell. > A figure of a gamefter. A figure of a drunkard. A figure of an ideot. A Spanifh Boor. A Laplander. Befides the room in which the curiofities are depofited, there are three fmall libraries ; the firft called by the name of Afhmole's Study, containing his printed books and MSS. chiefly relating to matters of heraldry and antiquity ; in which alfo are the MSS. of Sir William Dugdale, author of the Monafticon, &rc. The fecond is that of Dr. Lifter, confifting of printed books in phyfic, and the beft editions of the claffics, in which alfo are preferved the copper-plates belonging to the Hiftory of Shells, publifhed by that author. The laft is that of Anthony Wood, containing the valuable ma- nufcript collections of that learned and laborious anti- quarian. In the room on the firft floor, lectures are read in experimental philofophy. Underneath is an elaboratory for courfes of chemiftry and anatomy. The care and direction of the Mufeum is vefted in fix vifitors, viz. the vice-chancellor, the dean of Chrift- church, the principal of Brazen Nofe, the king's pro- feftbr of phyfic, and the two proctors for the time being. Thefe have the nomination of the head keeper, and meet annually on Trinity Monday, to infpect the ftate of the collection, and to pafs the accounts. Afhmole defigned to have endowed his foundation with ample revenues, and has in his ftatutes exprefied the fums ap- pointed for this purpofe, namely, fifty pounds per annum for the head keeper, fifteen pounds to the librarian, and five pounds for an afliftant ; but this generous intention was never put into execution ; fo that the profits at pre- fent arife only from the gratuities given by ftrangers for the exhibition of the curiofities, which fall greatlv fhort of the original defign. The Clarendon Printing-houfe is almoft contiguous to the Theatre. It is a magnificent ftructure, confifting of two ftories, and is one hundred and fifteen feet in length. The ftreet front has a noble Doric portico, whofe columns equal the height of the firft ftory. The back front is adorned with three quarter columns of the fame dimenfions, and a ftatue of the earl of Clarendon. Over the top of the building are ftatues of the Nine Mufes. As we eater from the fchools, on the right hand, are two rooms where bibles and books of com- mon prayer are printed. Over thefe are large and ele- gant apartments, containing feveral excellent pictures, with a kitchen, and other domeftic accommodations, under the whole ; all which are rented of the Univerfity by Meff. Wright and Gill, of London. The left fide confifts of rooms for the Univerfity prefs, together with one well-executed apartment, adorned with an excellent portrait of queen Anne, by Kneller ; appointed for the meetings of the heads of houfes, and delegates. This edifice was built, A. D. ijii, by the profits arifing from the fale of lord Clarendon's Hiftory of the Rebellion, the copy of which had been prefented to the Univerfity by his fon?, the lords Clarendon and Ro- chefter. The Phyfic Garden is fituared to the fouth of Mag- dalen College. We pafs through a fmall court, to the grand entrance, worthy of Inigo Jones, but defigned by Nicholas Stone. It is of the Doric order, and orna- mented with ruftic work. It is moreover adorned with a buft of the founder, lord Danby, a ftatue of Charles I. and another of Charles II. On the face of the Corona and the frieze is the following infeription : " Gloriae " Dei optimi maximi honori Caroli J. regis in ufum " academiae et reipublicae Henricus comes Danby, " anno 1632." The fame infeription is on the garden front. The garden, which is five acres in circumference, is furrounded by a noble wall, with other portals in the ruftic ftyle, at proper difttnees. The ground is divided into four quarters. On the right and left, at our en- trance, are two neat and convenient green-houfes, flocked with a valuable collection of exotics. The quarters are filled with a complete feries of fuch plants as grow naturally, difpofed in their refpective claries. Without the walls, on the eaft, is an admirable hot- houfe, where various plants, brought from the warmer climates, are raifed. Of thefe the chief are, the pine- apple, the plantain, the coffee-fhrub, the caper-tree, the cinnamon, the creeping Cereus, &c. This garden was inftituted by the earl of Danby, above-mentioned, A. D. 1632 ; who having repleniflied it with plants for the ufe of ftudents in botany, fettled an annual revenue for its fupport. It has been fince much improved by Dr. Sherrard, who erected the edifice which we fee on our left, at entering the garden, and furnifhed it with an ufeful collection of botanical books. He likewife affigned three thoufand pounds for the main- tenance of a profeflbr of botany, for whofe lodgings fome apartments in the building juft mentioned have been appointed. Having furveyed the public buildings in Oxford, we fhall proceed to the feveral colleges and halls which con- ftitutethe univerfity of Oxford. The earlieft accounts of the univerfity of Oxford are equally doubtful with thofe of the city. The founda- tions of both are by fome referred to the Britifh king, Memprick ; by fome to another Britifh king, named Arviragus, who reigned in the time of the emperor Do- mitian, about the feventieth year of the Chriftian asra - f and by others, to king Vortigern. Upon the whole, it is probable that this univerfity was founded foon after the Chriftian religion was efta- blifhed in England ; for in the papal confirmation of it, under the pontificate of Martin the fecond, in the fixth century, it is ftiied an ancient academy or univerfity. Some hiftorians affirm, that before the reign of Eorp- wald, king of the Eaft Angles, there were two general feminaries of literature in England, one for the inftruc- tion of youth in the Latin language, at a place in Glou- cefterfhire, not far from Oxford, called therefore Latin- lade, oxford sniR E. lade, and afterward;,, by corruption, Lcccalade, and Lechlade : the other for teaching the Greek language, at a place which then was called Greglade and Grecca- J.idc, but now Creklade, a borough towr of Wiltfhire. The ftudents and matters in both thei'e academies are laid to have been removed by the Saxons to Oxford. We have however no credible accounts of this uni- vcrfity before the time of king Alfred, towards the end of the ninth century ; Alfred is therefore generally con- iidered as its founder, though he was in fact no more than the rcftorer of learning at this place. At the acceffion of Alfred, learning had fuffered fo much by the wars of the Romans, Danes, and Saxons, that few perfons could read Englifh, and fcarce a fingle prieft in the kingdom undcrftood Latin. To remedy this inconvenience, Alfred firft ordered Gregory's Paftoral to be tranflated into Englifh, and fent a copy of it to every bifhop in the kingdom. He then procured feveral men of literature, and among others were Grymbald, and John the Monk, two men eminent, as well for their piety as for their learning, whom, in 886, he fettled at Oxford, which was before that time an univerfity or feminary of literature. Grymbald, and the learned men that accompanied him hither, having prefcribed new ftatutes, inftitutions, and forms of reading, to the ftudents, the old fcholars rcfufed to comply. They pleaded, that letters flourifhed here before the arrival of Grymbald ; and that if the ftudents were lefs in number before his arrival than af- terwards, it was owing to their having been expelled in great numbers by the tyranny of Pagans and Infidels. They further infilled, that they were ready to prove, bv the undoubted tcftimony of their annals, that good rules and orders had long fubfifted for the government of the place ; that thefe rules were prefcribed by Gildas, Mclkin, Nennius, Kentigern, and others of great learn- ing and piety, who had profecuted their ftudies at Ox- ford, and formed and improved the conftitution of its univerfity. After the animofity between Grymbald and the old ftudents of Oxford had fubfifted three yeats, 'it broke out with fuch violence, that upon Grymbald's com- plaint, king Alfred came in perfon to Oxford, and was at great pains in hearing both parties, and endeavouring to accommodate their differences ; and having exhorted them to friendfhip and reconciliation, he left them, in hopes that they would comply ; but the ftudents con- tinuing their oppofition, Grymbald retired to the mo- naftery at Winchefter, which Alfred had then lately founded. During the ftay of Grymbald at Oxford, he and St. Neots were regents and readers of divinity ; grammar and rhetoric were taught by After, a monk, a man of extraordinary parts and knowledge ; logic, rnufic, and arithmetic, by John, a monk of St. David's ; and geo- metry and aftronomy, by another John, a monk, and the collegueof Grymbald, a perfon of admirable know- ledge at that time in thole fciences. UNIVERSITY COLLEGE. For the advancement of learning in this place, king Alfred built three halls, as is generally believed, all fubject to one head, and called by the names of Great Univerfity Hall, Little Univerfity Hall, and Lefs Uni- verfity Hall ; and in thefe halls he placed twenty-fix ftudents in divinity, whom he endowed with annual ftipends, paid out of the Royal Exchequer. Others are of opinion, that king Alfred founded only one hall here, under a threefold diltinction, from the profeffions or fciences taught in it. Such, however, is the foundation of what is now called Univerfity College, which is al- lowed to be the moll ancient in Oxford. Some, how- ever, maintain, that this college was a manfion for fcho- lars long before the time of king Alfred, and that St. John de Beverley, who died in 721, received his edu- cation here. Its fubfiftence prior to Alfred, they fay, appears by a parliamentary petition in the rtign of Richard II. and they infill, that Alfred only rebuilt the houfe which he called Great Univerfity Hall, and pro- vided the ftudents with exhibitions. In the reign of king Etheked, this college or hall wa§ lacked and burnt, together with the city, by the Danes 3 and they were fcarce!',- rebuilt, when king Harold, who fucceeded to the crown in 1036, being much incenfed again ft this plate, for the murder of fonie of his friends, in a tumult, banifhed the fcho'ars from their ftudies. By an edi£t of Edward the Confeffor, the fcholars were however reftored to their ancient penfions and habita- tions ; but William the Conqueror being defirous to abolifh the Englifh tongue, and therefore unwilling to have the doctrines of the church any longer preached in it, was vigoroufly oppofed by the clergy and fcholars of Oxford, upon which he retracted the ftipends granted them by king Alfred, and the fcholars were thus re- duced to live on charitable contributions, till the col- lege was a fecond time endowed. This college, according to fomfi writers, was, at the time of the Conqueft, let out to the fcholars by the citi- zens, into whole poffeffion it is fuppofed to have come during the Danifh wars ; but this circumftance is by no means probable, fince the edict of Edward the Confeffor reftored the fcholars to their ancient privileges. How- ever, it is certain, that for fome time before the reign of Henry III. the fcholars rented the college of the citizens. By what means it became the property of the city, does not appear ; but fuch was the city's right to this col- lege, that it had power to fell it, and it was actually bought of the city by William, archdeacon of Durham, who died in 1249 » anc ^ ^y his laft will and teftament, bequeathed it to the ftudents, and endowed it with three hundred and ten merks, for the maintenance of ten or twelve fcholars. The magnificent front of this college is extended upwards of two hundred and fixty feet along the fouth fide of the High Street. In it, at due diftances, are two ftately portals, with a tower over each. That on the weft leads in - o the old court, which is a handfome Go- thic quadrangle, of one hundred feet fquare. Over the gate, at our entrance, on the outfide, is a ftatue of queen Anne, and within another of James II. Over the eaftern entrance, on the outfide, is alfo an admi- rable ftatue of queen Mary, wife of William III. On the fouth of the weftern quadrangle are the chapel and hall. The ftatue of St. Cuthbert is over the gate of the chapel, and that of Alfred at the entrance of the hall. The altar window was given by Dr. Radcliffe, as ap- pears by its infeription, A. D. 1687. The roof of the chapel is a well-wrought frame of Norway oak. The hall has been lately fitted up in a very beautiful Gothic ftyle, at the expence of many generous contributions, and is a mod complete room of the .kind. It is of the age of the chapel. From this court, through a narrow paffage on the eaft, we are led into another area of three fides. It is opened to a garden on the fouth. The eaft, and part of the north fide, is taken up by the lodgings of the mailer, which are commodious and extenfive. In a nich over the gate on the north, is a ftatue of Dr. Radcliffe. The fides of this court are about eighty feet. A fociety being thus eftablifhed, many other bene- factors afterwards appeared, who improved the revenues and buildings. Of thefe the molt confiderable are, Walter Skirlow, bifhop of Durham, who founded three fellowfhips. Henry Piercy, earl of Northumberland, A. D. 1443, ac ^ded the fame number. Sir Simon Ben- net, in the reign of Charles I. eftablifhed four fellow- fhips, and four fcholarfhips. Many others have like* wife founded fellowfhips and exhibitions. As to the buildings, the prefent fpacious, fplendid, and uniform ftructure, began to be erected, A. D. 1634, by the benefaction of Charles Greenwood, formerly fellow, and was foon carried on by Sir Simon Bennet, above-mentioned. Nor were fucceeding patrons want- ing to continue fo noble a work, till it was finally com- pleted by Dr. John Ratcliffe, who erected the whole eaftern quadrangle entirely at his own expence. He likewife fettled on the college fix hundred pounds a year for two travelling fellowfhips. The prefent fociety confifts of a mafter, twelve fellows, feventeen fcholars, with manv other ftudents, amounting in the whole to near feventv. BALIOL O X F O R D S H I R E. BALIOL COLLEGE. Though in the reign of Henry III. particularly in the year 1231, there appears to have been no lefs than thirty thoufand ftudents at this univerfity, confining of Englifn, Scotch, French, and Irifli ; yet there was but one college or hall, till after the year 1260, when the foundation of another college was projected by Sir John Baliol of Bernard Caftle, in Yorkfhirc-, knight, father of John Baliol, king of Scotland, who fettled fome yearly exhibitions upon certain poor fcholars, till he could provide a houfe and other accommodations for "them; but dying in 1269, his widow, Devorgilla, hav- ing been requcfted by him to complete his delign, hired of the univerfity a houfe in a ftreet, then called Horfe- manger-ftreet, but now Canditch, in which fhe placed her exhibitioner;, confifting of a principal and fixteen fellows, and prefcribed ftatutes for their government in 3282. Afterwards, in 1284, fhe puf chafed another te- nement, called St. Mary's Hall, which fhe rebuilt, and to which the fociety was removed by her charter, giving it the name of Baliol College. It has a handforne Gothic gateway, that leads us into the full court, part of which is finifhed in the ftyle in which it is intended to rebuild the whole college. On the north is the chapel, which was erected about the reign of Henry VIII. It is adorned with fome beautiful pieces of painted glafs. The eaft window par- ticularly demands our regard, which reprefents the pafiion, refurreclion, and aicenfion of Chrift ; and for which Nicholas Wadham offered two hundred pounds, intending it for the eaft. window of the chapel of his college. The hall is handfomelv wainfeotted. In the matter's lodgings is a fpacious old apartment, whofe beautiful bow window projects on the weft fide of the court, and which was formerly the college chapel. In the library, which was finifhed about the year 1477, are many curi- ous manufcripts. Befides this court, there is an area to the north-weft, confifting of irregular and detached lodgings. But an elegant front is now building by this court, a benefaction of three thoufand pounds having been lately received for that purpofe. The principal benefactors are, Philip Somerville, Thomas Stanhope, Peter Blundell, lady Peiiam, with feveral others. John Warner, bifhop of Rochefter, A. D. i665, founded four exhibitions for natives of Scotland, whofe benefaction was fince enlarged by John Snell, Efq. Here is one mafter, twelve fellows, and eighteen exhibitioners. The whole number of the fociety amounts to about fifty. MERTON COLLEGE. After Baliol College, the other focieties of this uni- verfity were fucceffively endowed. Walter de Merton, lord high chancellor of England, in the reign of king Henry ill. and afterwards bifhop of Rochefter, firft founded and endowed a college of twenty poor fcholars, and two or three chaplains, at Maiden, near Kingfton, a market town of Surry, in the year 1261 ; but becaufe the liberal arts were taught only in the univerfities, and he was not willing that his ftudents fhould be ignorant in them, he tranflated this fociety to a building he erected for them in St. John's ftreet at Oxford in 1267, prefcribed a body of ftatutes for them in 1274, and gave the college the name of Domus Scholarium de Merton. It is feparatcd from that of Corpus Chrifti, towards the weft, by a fmall grove of elms. In the firft court, the moft ftriking object is the eaft window of the chapel, the conftruction of which is a fine piece of Gothic workmanfhip. From this court, by a flight of fteps, we enter the hall : it is large and lofty, but has nothing particularly remarkable, except the wainfcot over the high table, which appears, by a date engraved upon it, in figures of an antique form, to have been erected in the year 1 554. The^ chapel, which is alfo the parifh church of St. John, is an auguft Gothic edifice, with a tower, in which are eight bells. Its choir, or inner chapel, is the 26 longeft of any in the univerfity, that of New College excepted. It had once an organ, yet without any regu- lar inftitution for choir-fervice, before the prefent ftalls and wainfcot were put up. There is fomcthing elegant in the painted glafs of the eaft window, which is of a modern hand. The ante-chapel is proportionably fpa- cious, and was originally much larger ; for if we exa- mine the outfide of the church, towards the weft, we may perceive the arches filled up, which once ftood within, and made part of the nave. Near the altir arc the monuments of Sir Thomas Bodely, and Sir Henry Saville. On the right hand of the choir door, is that of the late warden, Dr. Wintle, and his fifter, which is prettily executed ; and not far from the north door of the ante-chapel, is a bult and inscription to the memory of Anthony Wood. This church, as we are informed by a manufcript of Wood, was built about the year 1424, but it does not appear by what benefactor. South of the church or chapel, is a fmall old qua- drangle; the fouth fide of it forms the library, built A. D. 1369, which ftill contains many curious manu- fcripts ; notwithftanding, as we are told by Wood, a cart-load of manufcripts was taken from it, which were difperfed or deftroyed by the viiitors in the reign of Ed- ward VI. The new or fecond quadrangle was erected A. D. 1 610, from whofe apartments, on the fouth, there is a beautiful profpect over the meadows. The terrace, formed on the city-wall, in the garden of this college, is no lefs finely fnuated for a delightful view ; and the gardens in general have a pleafing variety. The benefactors of this fociety are numerous. Amongft thefe, the moft remarkable are, Henry Sever, and Richard Fitz James, formerly wardens ; and Dr. John Wyllyott, chancellor of the church of Exeter, who gave exhibi- tions for the maintenance of twelve Pertionijla^ called Poftmafters, A. D. 1 380. Thefe were afterwards en- creafed to fourteen, by John Chambers, .who directed, that his two additional exhibitioners fliould be elected from Eton School. Mr. Henry Jackfon, late of this houfe, has hkewife founded here four fcholarlhips. The fociety confitrs at prefent of a warden, twenty- four fellows, fourteen pcft-mafters, four fcholars, two chaplains, and two clerks. The number of members of every fort is near eighty. EXETER COLLEGE. In the year 1314, Walter Stapledon, bifhop of Exeter, purchafed two buildings in the city of Oxford, one called Hart Hall, and the other Arthur's Hall, where he inftituted a fociety, confifting of a rector and twelve fcholars, by the name of the Society of Stapledon Hall ; but not liking the fituation, he bought a piece of ground in the parifh of St. Mildred, in this city ; and having erected convenient lodgings and other accommodations for them, he tranflated the fociety to this building, which was at firft called Stapledon Inn, but afterwards Exeter College. About the year 13 18, the Hebrew tongue began to be read at this univerfity, by a Jewifh convert, towards whofe ftipend every clerk in Oxford contributed one penny for every merk of his ecclefiaftical revenue. It is fituated on the left fide within the Turl from the north. In the centre of the front, which is two hundred and twenty feet in length, is a beautiful gate of ruftic work : over it is a tower, adorned with Ionic pilafters, fupporting a femicircular pediment, in the area of which are the arms of the founder on a fhield furrounded with feftoons. A light baluftrade finifhes the whole. This front deferves a better approach than its confined fitua- tion will allow. The workmanfhip in the roof of the gateway is equal to the reft. This college confifts chiefly of one handforne modern quadrangle, one fide of which is the fame as the fronr. juft defcribed. On the fouth is the hall, which is long and lofty, and adorned with portraits. It was entirely built from the ground by Sir John Ackland, Knt. of Devonfhire, A. D. 1618. On the north is the chapel, confifting of two ifles. It was erected by Dr. Hakewell, formerly rector, A. D, 1624. Ttt In 254 OXFORD In the library, which was formerly the chapel, fitu- ated in the inner court, is a fine collection of the dailies, given by Thomas Richards, Efq. The old entrance into the college was through the tower which appears on the north-caft angle of the court, and for which a poftern in the city-wall was opened. Near or about this tower, the old college, as it in fome meafure may be called, feems to have flood ; part of which ftill remains adjoining to the tower on either fide, that on the eaft being the molt ancient, erected A. D. 1404, and that on the weft, viz. the rec- tor's lodgings, together with the tower itfelf, A. D. 1432. However, all thefe are ftill more modern than any part of the founder's original ftruclure, no remain- der of which is to be feen at prefent, except a part of the chapel, fince converted into the library. The gardens are neat, with an agreeable terrace, from whence a profpedt is opened to fome of the fineft buildings in the univerfity. The college confifts, at prefent, of one rector, twenty- five fellows, and a bible-clerk, with two exhibitioners. The ftudents of every fort are about fifty. ORIEL COLLEGE. Camden, Prynn, and other antiquarians, afcribe the foundation of Oriel College to king Edward II. in 1324 ; but it does not appear that he contributed much farther to this foundation, than granting a licence to Adam le Brome, his almoner, in 1324, to build and endow a college here, by the name of St. Mary's Hall. To this fociety king Edward III. in 1327, being the firft year of his reigri, gave a large building in Oxford, called le Oriel, to which the fellows removing from St. Mary's Hall, this was called Oriel College. It is fituated fouthward of St. Mary's church, on the north fide of the front of Corpus Chrifti College, its great gate being almoft oppofite to the back gate of Chrift-church. Its quadrangle, which was erected in the year 1640, is uniform and decent. The north fide confifts of the provoft's lodgings, and the library ; the eaft of the hall, buttery, and veftibule of the chapel, which runs eaftward from thence; and the fouth and weft fides form the common apartment. We afcend the hall by an ample flight of fteps, co- vered with a proportionable portico. It is handfomely wainfeotted in the Doric ftyle, and decorated at the upper end with a portrait of Edward II. drefled in his regalia, by Hudfon ; 'one of queen Anne, who annexed a prebend of Rochefter to the provoftfhip, by Dahl ; and another of the late duke of Beaufort, who is repre- fented erect, in his parliament robes, attended by a negro boy bearing a coronet, by Soldi. The beft of thefe pieces the judicious fpectator will probably determine to be that of the duke. The chapel has that beauty belonging to it which is derived from a decent fimplicity, and was finifhed A. D. j 642. The window over the altar has been lately painted with the Wife Men's Offering, by Mr. Pakett, of York. The library is a neat, wcll-furnifhed room, being half the upper ftory of the north fide of this quadrangle. The garden-court, which we enter by a paffage in the fame north fide, receives an agreeable air from an elegant little garden which is formed in the midft of it, and fenced on this fide with iron gates and pallifades, fupported by a dwarf-wall and ftone piers. The fides are two wings, in a ftyle correfpondent to that of the quadrangle. That on the right was erected by Dr. Ro- binfon, bifhop of London ; and that on the left, by Dr. Carter, formerly provoft. The college has gone through frequent revolutions with regard to its buildings. The principal benefactor to the prefent edifice was Dr. John Tolfon, when provoft, who, befides other valuable donations, gave one thoufand one hundred and fifty pounds for that purpofe. Nor fhould we forget the benefaction of the above mentioned Dr. Robinfon, bifhop of London, who gave two thoufand five hundred pounds for augmenting the fellowfhips. SHIRE. The prefent members are, one provoft, eighteen fel- lows, and about fourteen exhibitioners. The ftudents of all forts amount to almoft eighty. Q_UEEN's COLLEGE. Robert Eglesfield, a batchelor of divinity in this uni- verfity, and a native of Cumberland, a: the defire of queen Philippa, conlbrt of king Edward III. in the year 1340, purchaled certain houfes in the parifh of St. Peter in the Eaft, in the city of Oxford, which he converted into a collegiate hall, by the name of Aula Scbolarium Ragina de Oxon. and having obtained a royal charter of confirmation, dated the eighteenth of Janu- ary 1340, he endowed this hall for a provoft and twelve fellows, in allufion to Jeius Chrift and his twelve apoftles. He intended alio to endow it with revenues for the maintenance of feventy poor fcholars, in refe- rence to Chrift's feventy difciples ; but this part of the defign was never executed. By the founder's rules, the fellows were to be chofen out of Cumberland and Weft- moreland, in preference to any other county. After the founder's death, king Edward III. gave two tenements to this college, and fettled them on the fo- ciety, by the name of Queen's College, or Hall, in re- membrance of his queen Philippa, who was a great be- nefa&refs to it. About this time the ftudents of Oxford growing wanton and infolent, feparated themfelves into two parties or factions, diftinguifhed by the names of the Northern and Southern Men ; and after many acts of violence and hoftility, the Northern men retired to Stamford in Lincolnfhire, and began to profecute their ftudies in fome halls or colleges which had been erected there when it was an univerfity ; but in a few years they returned to Oxford again, and laws were enacted, prohibiting the profeflion of the liberal arts and fciences at Stamford, to the prejudice of Oxford univerfity. It is fituated in the High-ftreet, oppofite Univerfity College. The front, which is formed in the ftyle of the Luxemburgh palace, is at once magnificent and elegant. In the middle of it is a fuperb cupola, the conftrudtion of which is by fome thought too heavy for the reft. Under it is a ftatue of the late queen Ca- roline. The firft court is one hundred and forty feet in length, and one hundred and thirty in breadth. A beautiful cloifter furrounds this court, except on the north fide. Over the weftern cloifter are the prevoft's lodgings, which are fpacious and fplendid. The north fide is formed by the chapel and hall, and finely finifhed in the Doric order. In the centre, over a portico lead- ing to the north court, ftands a handfome cupola fup- ported by eight Ionic columns. The chapel is one hundred feet long, and thirty broad. It is ornamented in the Corinthian order, with a beautiful ceiling of fret-work. The windows are all of fine old painted glafs, viz. 1518 ; that over the altar excepted, reprefenting our Lord's nativity, which was executed by Mr. Price, A- D. 1 7 1 7. The moft remark- able are two on the north fide, of the Laft Judgment, and two on the fouth, of the Afcenfion. Thefe, with the reft, were removed hither from the old chapel. There is an Afcenfion in the roof by Sir James Thornhill. The hall is fitted up in the Doric order, and has an admirable proportion. It is fixty feet long, and thirty broad, with an arched roof^ of a correfpondent height. It is furnifhed with excellent portraits of the founder and benefactors. Over the fcreen is a handfome gallery, intended for mufic, and as a veftibule to the common room, to which it leads. The north court is one hundred and thirty feet long, and ninety broad. On the weft ftands the library, which is of the Corinthian order. Under the eaft fide of this edifice runs a cloyfter ; its weft fide is adorned with ftatues of the founder, and benefactors, and other pieces of fculpture. The room within is highly finifhed. The book-cafes, which are of Norway oak, are deco- rated with well-wrought carving, and in the ceiling ate fome admirable compartments of ftucco. The O X F O R D S H I R E. The whole area, cn which this beautiful college, which is one enthe piece of well-executed modern ar- chitecture, ftands, is an oblong fquare, three hundred feet in length, and two hundred and twenty in breadth ; which being divided by the hall and chapel, is formed into the two courts juft defcribed. The prefent edifice was begun by Sir J'ofcph William- fon, Knt. 1672, who was a moil munificent contri- butor ; and being continued by the liberality of feveral intermediate benefactors, was at length completed by the noble legacy of Mr. Mitchell of Richmond, who like- wile founded eight fellowfhips and four fcholarfhips. Thefe fellows and fcholars have handlbme apartments appropriated to them in the New Buildings, befides an annual ftipend of fifty pounds to each of the former, and thirty pounds per annum to each of the latter. This foundation was firft filled up by election from other colleges of the univerfity, on the twenty-fixth of Octo- ber, 1764. The cuftom of ufhering in the boar's head, with a fong, on Chriftmas-day, is, at prefent, peculiar to this college : but it was formerly practifed all over the kingdom ; and the Carol here lung < n this occafion, is literally the fame with that which was once univer- fall y uf'ed, except feme few local alteratons. The college confifts, at prefent of a provoft, fixteen fellows, two chaplains, eight taberdars, fo called from Tabcrdum, a fhort gown which they formerly wore, fixteen fcholars, two clerks, and fotty exhibitioners. To thefe we may add, the members of Mr. Mitchell's new foundation, juft mentioned. The number of ftu- dents of every fort is above one hundred. NEW COLLEGE, William of Wickham, bifhop of Winchefter, having erected and endowed a college at Winchefter, for teach- ing a certain number of boys grammar learning, formed a defign, about the year 1369, of building a college in Oxford, to, which they might be removed at a proper time, and pafs through a regular courfe of academical ftudies : he therefore obtained of king Richard II. in the third year of his reign, a licence, dated the thirtieth of June 1379, for carrying his defign into execution. He laid himfelf the firft ftone of a magnificent ftrudture, which being finifhed in 1380, he called New College ; and on the fourteenth of April, in that year, the warden and fellows were admitted with great folemnity. The ftatutes, habits, cuftoms, and privileges of this college, are different from thofe of any other college in the univerfity. It is fituated eaftvvard of the Schools, and is feparated from Queen's College by a na"rrow lane on the fouth. The firft court is~about one hundred and fixty-eight feet in length, and one hundred and twenty-nine in breadth. In the centre is a ftatue of Minerva, given by Sir Henry Parker of Honington, in Warwickfhire. The north fide, which confills of the chapel and hall, is a noble fpecimen of Gothic magnificence. The two upper ftories of the eaft fide form the library. On the weft are the lodgings of the warden, which are com- modious and ample, adorned with many valuable por- traits. The third ftory of this court was added to the founder's original building, A.D. 1674. We enter the chapel at the north-weft angle. This chapel exceeds all in the univerfity. The ante-chapel, which is fupported by four pillars of fine proportion, runs at right angles to the choir, and is eighty feet long and thirty-fix broad. The choir, which we enter by a Gothic fcrcen of beautiful conftructicn, is one hundred feet long, thirty-five broad, and lixty-five high. From hence the painting over the altar, done about fixty years ago by Mr. Henry Cook, is feen to the beft advantage. It confifts of a falutation piece, behind which the painter has artfully thrown the concave of a well ornamented dorre, in which the chapel appears to terminate. Nor is the deception contrived with lefs art in the two pan- nels on each fide of the altar, which feem to difcover fomedilhint opening. The altar itfelf is approached by a noble flight of marble fteps. It is inclol'ed by a well- wrought fail of iron -work, the gift of Mr. Terry, for- merly fellow, and is coveied with a rich pall of crimfon velvet, given by Dr. Burton, the late head mailer of Winchefter fchool. From this fituation, the organ, with the {tall-work underneath, has a ftriking effect. Nor are the frails, with their ornaments, on either fide, unworthy of the reft, being remarkably elegant in the ftyle of the light Gothic. The windows on the fouth fide are moft beautifully painted by Mr. Price of Lon- don ; each window reprefenting eight figures jaf faints and martyrs, with their refpective fymbols and infignia, large as the life. It is intended by the focieiy to finilfl all the remaining windows in the fame fuperb ftyle. The ante-chapel has lately received great ornament from a new weftern window, painted by Mr. Pecketof York. Choir-fervice is performed here every day at eleven and five, and is probably no where performed with more folemnity, or heard to better advantage. The or^an is a moft admirable inilrument, erected by the famous Dolham, and fiiu:e improved with the addition of the clarion-ftop and fuelling organ, bv Mr. John Bvfield. Near the chapel is a noble cloyiler, which conlhtutes a quadrangle, one hundred and forty-fix feet in length on two fides, and one hundred and five the other two, with a garden in the area. Contiguous to it, on the north, is a lar^e and lofty tower, with ten bells. The hall, to which we pafs at the north-eaft fide of the quadrangle, is of excellent proportion, being feventy- eight leet in length, thirry-five in breadth, and forty- three in height. Its wainfcot, which was erected about the reign of Henry VIII. is curious, and much in cha- racter. At the eaft end are portraits of the munificent founder, William of Wickham ; William of Wainfleet, founder of Adagdalen College, who was fchoolmafter of Wykeham's College at Winchefter; and Henry Chichely, the founder of All Souls College, fellow of New Col- lege, while the founder was yet living. The two rooms of which the library before mentioned confifts, are feventy feet long, and twenty-two broad. This library is furnifhed with a fine collection, and well known to the learned for its many valuable manufcripts. In the chapel is fhevvn the crofierof the founder, one of the nobleft curioiities, and almoft the only one of its kind now remaining in this kingdom. It is nearly fevea feet in height, is of filver gilt, embellifhed with variety of the richeft Gothic workmanfhip, and charged with figures of angels, and the tutelar faints of the cathedral church of Winchefter, executed with an elegance equal to that of a moie modern age. It is finely preferved, and from a length of almoft four hundred years, has loft but little of its original fplendor and beauty. From this quadrangle we pafs into the garden-court. This beautiful area, by means of a fucceflion of retiring wings, difplays itfelf gradually as we approach the gar- den, from which it is feparated by a fumptuous iron pallifade, one hundred and thirty feet in length. This court has a noble effect from the mount in the garden ; and the profpect is ftill further improved by the appear- ance of the old Gothic fpires and battlements, which overlook the new building from the founder's court. It began to be erected A. D. 1682, at the expence of the college, aflifted by many liberal contributions. The garden in general is judicioufly difpoied. Great part of it, as likewife part of the college, is furrounded by the city-wall ; which, from this circumftance of ferving as. a fence or boundary to the college precincts, is here, and here only, preferved entire, with its battle- ments and baftions, to a confidcrable extent. On the fouth fide is a pleafant bowling-green, fhadt-d to the weft by a row of elms, and on the eaft by tall fycamores, the branches of which being interwoven and incorporated with each other, from end to end, are juftly admired as a natural curiofity. The principal benefactors are, John Buckingham, bifhop of Lincoln, A.D. 1388. Thomas Beckington, A. D. 1440. Thomas Jane, A. D. 1494. Clement Harding, A.D. 1507. U';ueham, archbifhop of Can- terbury,; Shircbourne, bifhop of Chicheiler; John Smith, William Flefhmonger, with many.others. This college, dedicated to St. Mary Winton, Irs been called New College from its firft foundation, bein j OXFORDSHIRE. at that time ah object of public curiofity, and far fupe- rior, in point of extent and grandeur, to any college that had then appeared. It was the full effort to mag- nificence ever exhibited in Oxford •, and probably Mer- ton was, before this, the moft fplcndid college in the univerfity, though then by no means adorned with buildings as at prefent. The reft of the colleges then exifting, viz. JJaliol, Univerfity, Queen's, Exeter, and Oriel, were very fmall and inconfiderablc ftructures. The members of this college are, one warden, feventy fellows, ten chaplains, three clerks, fixteen chorifters, and one fexton; together with many gentlemen com- moners. LINCOLN COLLEGE. Richard Fleming, bifhop of Lincoln, in 1427, being the fixth year of Henry VI. began a college here for one rector, feven fellows, and two chaplains, which he defigned as a feminary of divines, who might confute the doctrines of Wickliff'; but before this defign was completed, he died, and Thomas Rotheram, biihop of Lincoln, in the year 1475, finifhed the building or the college, and encreafed its revenues : he gave it a body of ftatutes, and called it Lincoln College. It is fituated between All Saints church and Exeter College, and confifts of two quadrangles. The firft, which we enter under a plain but decent tower, is formed, exclufive of chambers, by the lodgings of the rector, Handing in the fouth-eaft angle, and erected by Thomas Eeckington, bifhop of Bath and Wells, A. D. 1465 ; the library and common room on the north, and refec- tory on the eaft. The library, under which is the Common Room, is fmall, but neatly decorated, and contains many curious manufcripts, chiefly given bv Thomas Gafcoigne, A. D. 1432. It was finifhed, as it appears at prefent, by the liberality of Sir Nathaniel Lloyd, firft a commoner of this, and afterwards fellow of All Souls College, A. D. 1738. This room was originally the chapel, and was converted into a library at the expence of Nathaniel lord Crew, when fellow, A. D. 1656. The hall was erected by John Williams, bifhop of Lincoln, A. 1631. It was handfomely wainfeotted by bifhop Crew, A. D. 1 701 , whofe arms appear over the middle of the fcreen ; and thofe of the reft of the con- tributors are interfperfed about the mouldings. It is forty feet in length, twenty-five in breadth, and pro- portionable in height. From this court, which forms a fquare of eighty feet, we enter through the fouth fide, the fecond, which is about feventy feet fquare. On the fouth fide of this quadrangle is the chapel, which particularly deferves our attention. It was built by bifhop Williams above- mentioned, A. D. 1631. The fcreen is of cedar, ele- gantly carved. The windows are of painted glafs, complete, and well preferved, done A. D. 1632. Thofe on the north reprefent twelve of the prophets, and thofe on the fouth the twelve apoftles, large as life. The eaft window exhibits a view of the types relative to our Sa- viour, with their refpective completions, viz. 1. From the left hand, the Nativity ; and under it, the Hiftory of the Creation its antetype. 2. Our Lord's baptifm ; and under it, the patting of the Ifraelites through the Red Sea. 3. The Jewifh Paflbver , and under it, the inftitution of the Lord's Supper. 4. The Brazen Ser- pent in the Wildernefs ; correfponding to Chrift on the crofs. 5. Jonas delivered from the whale's belly, expreffive of — Chrift's Refurrection. 6. Elijah in the fiery chariot, with — Our Lord's Afcenfion. The roof confifts of compartments in cedar, embel- Jifhed with the arms of the different founders and bene- factors, and interchangeably enriched with chcrubims, palm-branches, and feftoons, diverfified with painting and gilding. There is an admirable proportion and elegance ot execution in the eight figures of cedar which are refpectively placed at each end of the defks, and re- prefent Mofcs, Aaron, the four Evangelifts, St. Peter and St. Paul. The benefactors to this college are, William Dagvyle, mayor of Oxford] William Smith, bifhop of Lincoln, and founder of Brazen-Nofe College, who, it is faid, intended to have beftowed all that he gave to his own college, on this of Lincoln ; Edmund Audley, bifhop of Salilbury ; Jane Trappes", with many others. But their principal benefactor is Nathaniel lord Crew, bifhop of Durham, who, about the year 171 7, added to the headfhip an annual allocation of twenty pounds ; to the twelve fellowships, ten pounds each ; and to the feven icholarfhips and bible clerklhip, five pounds each. He likewife improved the four college curacies ; and more- over founded twelve exhibitioners, with falaries of twenty pounds per annum each. The fociety confifts at prefent of a rector, twelve" lows, twelve exhibitioners, and feven fcholars, w fel- bibie-clerk; befides independent members. ith a ALL SOULS COLLEGE. In the year 1437, Henry Chichley, archbifhop of Canterbury, began a college here, which he endowed for a warden and forty fellows, chiefly with the lands of alien priories, which were difiblved in the reign of Henry V. In 1438, the bifhop procured a charter for incorporating this fociety : he called the college Collegium Animarum omnium defunclorum de Oxon. and hither he loon afterwards fent a body of ftatutes, directing the election of the fellows to be upon All Souls day annually. All the buildings of this college, except the cloifter3 upon the eaft fide of the quadrangle, were erected during the life of the founder.' It is fituated in the High-ftreet, weftward of Qi'-'en's College. Over the gateway are the ftatues of the foun- der, Henry Chichely, and Henry VI. The firft, or old court, is a decent Gothic edifice one hundred and twenty-four feet in length, and feventy- two in breadth. The chapel on the north fide is a ftately pile. The ante-chapel, in which are fome remarkable monuments, is feventy feet long, and thirty broad. We enter the inner chapel, which is of the fame dimen- fions, by a grand flight of marble fteps, through a fcreen conftrudted by Sir Chriftopher Wren. The fpacious environ of the altar confifts of the richeft red-vein marble. Above is a fine afTumption-piece of the founder by Sir James Thornhill. On the right and left, at our approach to the altar, are two inimitable urns by the fame hand, refpectively reprefenting, in their bas-rcliefs 4 the inftitution of the two facraments. Between the windows, on each fide, are figures of faints in claro- obfeuro, bigger than the life. The ceiling is difpofed into compartments embellifhcd with carving and gilding. The whole has an air of much fplendor and dignity, and is viewed to the beft advantage from the fcreen. The hall, which forms one fide of an area to the eaft* is an elegant modern room. It is furnifhed with por- traits of the munificent founder, colonel Codrington^ and Sir Nathaniel Lloyd. At the high-table is an hifto- rical piece by Sir James Thornhill, whofe fubject is the finding of the law. The figure of Jolias, rending his robe, is animated and expreflive. Over the chimney- piece, which is handfomely executed, in dove-coloured marble, is a bull of the founder ; on one fide is a buft of Linacre, formerly fellow, a famous phyfician in the reign of Henry VIII. and on the other, of John Leland, a celebrated antiquarian and polite fcholar, about tbe fame reign, fuppoled to have been a member of this houfe. The reft of the room is adorned with an ad* mirable feries of bufts from the antique. The adjoining buttery is worthy our obfervation ; it is a well-proportioned room, of an oval form, having an arched roof of ftone, ornamented with curious work- manfhip. It was built with the hall.. The fecond court is a magnificent Gothic quadrangle, one hundred and fevcnty-tvvo feet in length, and one hundred and fifty-five in breadth. On the fouth are the chapel and hall ; on the weft a cloiftcr, with a grand portico ; on the north a library ; and on the eaft two fuperb Gothic towers > in the centre of a feries of fine apartments. The library forms the whole north fide of this court. It is two hundred feet in length, thirty in breadth, and forty in height, and finiflied in the tnoft fpkndid and elegant OXFORDSHIRE. 2 57 elegant manner. Its outfiJe, in correfpondence to the reft of the court, is Gothic. The room itfelf is fur- nifhed with two noble arrangements of book-cafes, one above the other, fupported by Doric and Ionic pilafters. The upper clafs is formed in a fuperb gallery, which furrourds three fides. About the middle of the room, on the north fide, is a recefs equal to the breadth of the whole room ; and in its area is placed the ftatue of co- lonel Codrington, the founder of the library. The ceilinc, and fpaces between the windows, are orna- mented with the richeft ftucco, by Mr. Roberts. Over the gallery, a feries of Bronzes is interchangeably dif- pofed, confifting of vafes, and the bulls of many emi- nent men, formerly fellows of this houfe. Before we quit this court, the Common Room de- ferves our notice, which is a grand apartment, being a cube of twenty-fix feet, and lighted by a large Venetian window. It is fituated between the two towers above- mentioned. The warden's lodgings, which front the High-ftreet, are commodious and handfome, being formerly the dwel- ling-houfe of Dr. Clarice, formerly fellow, and given by him for the ufe of the wardens of this houfe fucceffively. The principal benefactors are, colonel Chriftopher Codrington, governor of the Leeward iflands, formerly fellow, who, betides a valuable collection of books, granted by will fix thoufand pounds for building the library, and added four thoufand pounds for purchafing books : Dr. George Clarke, the late duke of Wharton, Doddington Greville, lieutenant colonel Stewart, and Sir Nathaniel Lloyd. Of the combined munificence of all, or moft of thefe, the fecond court, above defcribed, is an illuftrious monument. This college confifts of one warden, forty fellows, two chaolains, three cleiks, and fix chorifters. No independent ftudents are admitted. MAGDALEN COLLEGE. In 1458, William Patten, called alfo Wainfleet, biftiop of Winchefter, founded a college here, on the fite where an .hofpital dedicated to Sr. John had for- merly ftood, and endowed it, among other lands, with thofe belonging to the hofpital, for the maintenance of a prefident, and fifty graduate fcholars, whom he directed to be augmented or reduced, as the revenues encreafed or diminiftied. He called the fociety by the name of Mary Magdalen College. It is fituated without the Eaft Gate of the city, on the borders of the river Cherwell. A Doric portal, de- corated with a ftatue of the founder, introduces us to the weft front of the college, which is a ftriking fpeci- men of the Gothic manner. The gate under the weft window of the chapel demands a minute examination. It is adorned with five fmall, but elegant figures ; that on the right reprefents the founder ; the next is Wil- liam of Wykeham, in whofe college at Winchefter the founder was fchoolmafter ; the third is St. Mary Mag- dalene, to whom the college is dedicated ; the fourth is Henry III. who founded the hofpital, fince converted into this college ; and the laft St. John the Baptift, by whofe name the faid hofpital was called. On the left are the lodgings of the prefident. Nearly contiguous to thefe, is a ftately gateway, the original entrance into the college, but fince difufed, formed in a tower, whofe fides are adorned with ftatues of four of the perfons above-mentioned. It has been obferved, that the (lender arches, feparate and diftinct. from the other curve mouldings, in this and the chapel gateway, were formerly efteemed curious mafonry ; but it fhould be remembered, that curious mafonry was more com- mon three centuries ago than at prefent. It muft how- ever be allowed, that they relieve the work, and have an elegant effect. From this area we pafs into a cloifter which furrounds a venerable old quadrangle. On the fouth are the chapel and hall. We enter the chapel on the right hand at en- tering the cloifter. The ante-chapel is fpacious, fup- ported with two ftaff-moulded pillars, extremely light. In the weft window are fome fine remains of glafs painted" in ctaro obfcuto. The fubjecT; is the refur- a6 reclion. The defign is after one invented and executed by Schwartz, for the wife of William duke of Bavaria, more than two hundred years fince, which was after- wards engraved by Sadeler. The choir is folemn, and handfomely decorated. The Windows, each of which contains fix figures, almoit as large as life, of primitive fathers, faints, martyrs, and apoftles, are finely painted in the tafie, and about the time of that juft defcribed. Thefe windows formerly belonged to the ante-chapel, the two near the altar excepted, which were lately done, being all removed hither, A. D. 1741. In the confu- fion of the civil wars, the original choir windows weTe taken down and concealed. They did not, however, efcape the rage of fanaticifm and ignorance : they were unluckily difcovered by a party of Cromwell's troopers, who fpreading them along the cloifters, jumped through them in their jack-boots, with the utmoft fatisfaction, and entirely deftroyed them. The altar-piece was per- formed by Ilaac Fuller, about ninety years ago. It reprefents the Refurrection, and we fufpecf, never re- ceived the laft finifhing. It evidently wants grace and compofition, and has too much of the Flemilh colouring and expreilion. Many of the figures are, however, finely drawn. This painting is elegantly celebrated by Mr. Addifon, formerly a ftudent of this houfe, in a Latin poem, printed in the Mnja Ar.glicance. Under this piece is another admirable picture of our Lord bearing the crofs, fuppofed to be the work of Guido. It was taken at Vigo ; and being brought into England by the late duke of Ormond, came into the poffeffion of Wil- ' liam Freeman, Efq; of Hamels, in Hertfordfhire, who gave it to the fociety. The altar is fitted up in the mo- dern ftyle, with a well executed wainfcot, and columns of the Corinthian order, charged with other elegant embeilifhments. It is defigned to wainfcot the whole choir in the fame manner. Choir-fervice is performed in this chapel at eleven and four every day, except, that on Sundays and holidays, the morning fervice is fung at eight, as it is in all the choirs of the univerfity. The hall is a ftately Gothic room, well proportioned, and handfomely finifhed. It has four whole-length por- traits, viz. of the founder, Dr. Butler, William Free- man, prince Rupert ; and two half-lengths, viz. bilhop Warner, and Dr. Hammond. Great pains have been taken to unriddle the latent meaning of the hieroglyphics which furround the cloifter. Some affirm, that they are nothing more than the licen- tious invention of the mafon ; while others as warmly contend, that they contain a complete fyftem of acade- mical discipline. From this court, through a narrow paffage on the north, we are led into a beautiful opening, one fide of which is bounded by a noble and elegant edifice in the modern tafte, confifting of three ftories,, three hundred feet in length. The front refts on an arcade, whofe roof is finely ftuccoed. It is intended to add two other fides ; but as the prefent opening to the meadows and hills on the right, produces fo charming an effedr, we could al- moft with the college might never execute their original defign. Through the centre of this building we pafs into the grove, or paddock, which is formed into many delightful walks and lawns, and ftocked with about thirty or forty head of deer. No college enjoys a more agreeable or extenfive en- viron. Befides the grove juft mentioned, there is a mea- dow within the college precincts, confifting of about thirteen acres, furrounded by a pleafant walk, called the Water-walk. The whole circuit of the walk is wafhed by branches of the Cherwell, and has many pretty rural profpects. This walk is fhaded with hedges and lofty trees, which in one part grow wild, and in the other are cut and difpofed regularly. A beautiful opening has lately been made on the weft fide into the College-grove, by demolilhing the old embattled wall on the banks of the river. The original endowment was moft munificent, which yet has been augmented by many confiderable benefactors. The moft diftinguifhed are, Henry VI. William Fitz Alan, earl of Arundel, Claymond, Morwent, &c. cardinal Wolfey, when burfarof the college, A.D. 1492, U u u erected OXFORDSHIRE. erected the tower, which is exceeded by none inftrength, height, and beauty, and contains a mufical peal of ten hells. The college at this time confifts of a prefident, forty fellows, thirty demies, a divinity lecturer, a fchool- mafter, an ufher, four chaplains, an organift, eight clerks, and fixteen chorifters. The whole number of ftudents about one hundred and twenty. BRAZEN-NOSE COLLEGE. In the year 1511, being the third of Henry VIII. William Smith, bifhop of Lincoln, and chancellor of this unlverfity, and Richard Sutton of Preftbury, near Macclesfield, a market town of Chefhire, founded a college for a principal and fixty fcholars, and called it Brazen-nofe College, from a hall of the fame name, diftinguifhed by a large brafs nofe upon the gate, on the fite of which hall this college was partly built. Brazen Nofe College conftitutes the weft fide of the Radcliffe fquare. It has two courts. The firft, which is the original one, confifts of the lodgings of the prin- cipal, and chambers of the fellows and ftudents, and the refectory, which is elegantly fitted up, and adorned with portraits. Over its portico are two antique bufts, the one of Alfred, which built Little Univerfity Hall, or King's Hall, on the fitc of which the prefent college is partly founded ; and the other of John Erigena, a Scotchman, who firft read lectures in the faid hall, A. D. 882. Over the door leading up to the Common Room, which was originally the chapel, is the follow- ing inscription, " A°. xti 1509, et Reg. Hen. 8 pri?. " Nomine divino Lyncoln praeful, quoque Sutton, *' Hanc pofuere petram Regis ad imperium. i. e. " In the name of God, the bifhop of Lincoln, and <( Sutton, laid this ftone, at the command of the king." In the centre of this court is a ftatue of Cain and Abel. We enter the fecond court through a paflage on the left hand of the gate of the firft. It is planned in a good tafte, and was probably the work of Sir Chriftopher Wren. The cloifter on the eaft fide fupports the library. On the fouth ftands the chapel, which is at once neat and fplendid. The roof, which, being a frame of wood, is an admirable imitation of Gothic ftone-work, and the altar, with its decorations, particularly demand our attention. It was finifhed A. D. 1667, as was the whole court. With regard to the very fingular name of this college, it appears, that the founders erected their houfe on the fite of two ancient hoftels, or halls ; Little Univerfity Hall, mentioned above, and Brazen Nofe Hal!. The latter of thefe acquired its name from fome ftudents re- moved to it from a feminary in the temporary univerfity of Stamford, fo denominated, on account of an iron ring fixed in a nofe of brafs, and ferving as a knocker to the gate. The prefent members of this houfe are, one princi- pal, twenty fellows, thirty-two fcholars, and four ex- hibitioners ; together with about forty or fifty ftudents befides. CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE. In 1513, Richard Fox, bifhop of Winchefter, founded a. college here for a warden, certain monks and fecular canons, defigned as a feminary to the priory of St. Swithin in Winchefter; but the founder, in 15 1 6, converted *his college to the ufe of fecular ftudents, like the other colleges of the univerfity, and enlarging the buildings, endowed it for a prefident, twenty fellows, two chap- lains, two clerks, two chorifters, and three le&urers in philofophy and divinity, giving it the name of Corpus Chrifti College. This college is fituated near the back gate of Chrift- church, on the fouth fide of Oriel College. Through a beautiful Gothic gateway we enter the firft court; in which there is a peculiar appearance of neatnefs. On the eaft ftands the hall, which is handfomely wainf- cotted, and well proportioned. The rafters in the ceiling arc well wrought in the Gothic ftile, In the midft of this court is a curious column, exhibiting a cylindrical dial, the conftruction of which is efteemed a valuable piece of old Gnomonics. It was made by Robert Hegge, a fellow, about the latter end of Elizabeth. From hence we pafs into the clolfters, which are in the mo- dern tafte. South of thefe is an elegant pile of building, of the Ionic order, which fronts Chrift-church Meadow, and was erected by Dr. Turner, formerly prefident, A. D. 1706. There is likewife another neat ftruclure, of the modern kind, near the hall, appropriated to gen- tlemen commoners, who muft not exceed fix in number. The chapel is feventy feet in length, and twenty-five in breadth, with a fcreen and altar-piece of cedar. The library, which is well furnifhed in general, is remarkable for a collection of pamphlets from the Re- formation to the Revolution ; an Englifh bible, fuppofed to be of higher antiquity than that of Wickliffe; and a vellum roll, which exhibits the pedigree of the Royal Family, with the collateral branches, from Alfred to Edward I. richly decorated with their arms blazoned, and figned by the kings at arms. The moft ftriking curiofity is an ancient manufcript hiftory of the bible in French, illuminated with a feries of beautiful paintings, illuftrating the facred ftory. It was given by general Oglethorpe, formerly a member of this houfe. Here is fhewn alfo the crofier of the founder, which, although a fine fpecimen of antique workmanfhip, is by no means equal to that of Wykeham at New College. Theftatutes ordain, that the fellows fhould be elected from the fcholars, and the latter from the counties and diocefes following, viz. two from Surry, three from Hampfhire, one from Durham, two from Bath and Wells, two from Exeter, two from Lincolnfhire, two from Gloucefteitfhire, one from Wiltfhire, or, in defect of a candidate, the diocefe of Sarum, one from Bed- fordfhire, two from Kent, one from Oxfordlhire, and one from Lancafhire. Hugh Oldham, chaplain to Margaret countefs of Richmond, and afterwards bifhop of Exeter, is com- memorated as the principal benefactor. The founder had intended his fociety as a feminary to the monks of St. Swithin's cathedral at Winchefter ; but Oldham perfuaded him to change this defign, and to make it a. college of fecular ftudents on the academic plan ; con- tributing at the fame time fix hundred merks for com- pleting the building, befides certain eftates for the aug- mentation of its revenue. William Froft, the founder's fteward ; John Claymond, the firft prefident ; and Ro- bert Morwent, the fecond ; with lbme others, have given lands, &c. The prefent members are, one prefident, twenty fellows, two chaplains, twenty fcholars, two clerks, two chorifters, and fix gentlemen commoners. CHRIST CHURCH COLLEGE. In 1525, the feventeenth of Henry VIII. Thomas Wolfey, cardinal of Sancta Csecilia, and archbifhop of York, obtained two bulls of pope Clement VII. for diflblving above forty monafteries, and converting their eftates towards building and endowing two colleges, one at Ipfwich, a borough town of Suffolk, the place of the cardinal's nativity, and another at Oxford. He alfo procured a royal charter, dated the thirteenth of July, 1525, impowering him to build and endow a college, by the name of Cardinal College, upon the fite of a priory dedicated to Fridefwide, one of the religious houfesjuft diflblved, and to fettle in this college a dean, fecular canons, and other gownfmen, for the ftudy of the liberal arts and fciences ; and towards their main- tenance, to purchafe an eftate of two tboufand pounds per annum, and convey it to the fociety. The cardinal, two days after the date of the charter, laid the foundation of this college with great folemnity ; but being impeached of high treafon in 1529, before the buildings were finifhed, all the eftates and poffemons of this fociety were forfeited to the king, which put a ftop to the buildings for three years, at the end of which time, the king iffued out letters patent, ordering the building to be carried on, the fame revenues to be fettled on the fociety, and the foundation to be called King Henry OXFORDSHIRE. Henry VIII. 's college ; but being afterwards diflatisfied with this appointment, he fupprefled the inftitution in 1 545, and in the year following erected the church of this college into a cathedral, by the name of the Ca- thedral Church of Chrift in Oxford, founded by king Henry VIII. and fettled in it a bifhop, dean, and eight canons, eight clerks, eight chorifters, a mufic-mafter, an organift, and forty ftudents, who were to be chofen yearly from Weftminfter-fchool, and the number of whom was augmented by queen Elizabeth. The {lately front of the college of Chrift-church is extended to the length of three hundred and eighty-two feet, and terminated at either end by two correfponding turrets. In the centre is the grand entrance, whofe Gothic proportions and ornaments are remarkably mag nificent. Over it is a beautifiil tower, planned by Sir Chriftopher Wren, and erected by bifhop Fell. It con- tains the great bell called Tom, on the found of which, every night at nine, the ftudents of the whole univerfity are enjoined by ftatute to repair to their refpective fo- cieties. The judicious fpeftator cannot but obferve with regret, that this front, perhaps the nobleft in the kingdom of the Gothic ftile, lofes much of its effect, on account of the declivity of the ground on which it ftands, and the narrowncis of the approach. It feems however probable, that a terrace walk was intended, by way of raifing the ground to a level, the whole length of the college ; for the rough foundation ftones of the hofpital on the oppofite fide, left unfinifhed by Wolfey, ftill remain bare, and the fmooth ftones are terminated by an horizontal right line, to which height the ground would have been elevated. The grand quadrangle is two hundred and fixty-four by two hundred and fixty-one feet in the clear : the eaft, north, and weft fides, with part of the fouth, con- fift of the lodgings of the dean, the canons, and the ftudents, &c. The greateft part of the fouth fide is formed by the hall, which is confiderably elevated above the reft of the buildings, and, taken as a detached ftruc- ture, is a noble fpecimen of ancient magnificence.— The fouth, eaft, and part of the weft fide, were erected by cardinal Wolfey, as was the kitchen, to the fouth of the hall, which is every way proportionable to the reft of the college. The whole is ftrongly expreffive of the greatnefs of the cardinal's conceptions, who yet intended much more than is executed. The north, and what remained of the weft fide of this court, was finifned A. D. 1665. By the marks on the wall, fome fuppofe this area was furrounded by a cloifter. It is evident that a cloifter was defigned, but it never, as we can find, was executed. We are apt to fufpe£t, that when the college fell into the king's hands, the teeth-ftones only of the projected cloifter, with fome other of the pilafters, had been begun ; which probably the new founder removed, and fmoothed to the wall. For uniformity's fake, they took care to make the fame marks in the new part erecled in 1665, as we have juft obferved. Round the whole area is a fpacious terrace-walk, made in the fame year; and in the centre a bafon and fountain, with a ftatue of Mercury. On the infide, over the grand entrance, is a ftatue of queen Anne. Over the arch, in the north-eaft angle, another of bifhop Fell ; and oppofite to that at the fouth-eaft, a ftatue of cardinal Wolfey, which is juftly admired; it was done by Francis Bird. Under this ftatue of the cardinal we enter the hall, bv a fpacious and (lately ftair-cafe of ftone, covered by a beautiful roof, built A. D. 1630, which, though very broad, is fupported by a fmall fingle pillar of fine pro- portion. This hall is probably the largeft, and certainly the moft fuperb, of any in the kingdom. It contains eight windows on each fide, is one hundred and twenty feet in length, forty in breadth, and its ceiling eighty feet high. The roof is a noble frame of timber-work, beautified with near three hundred coats of arms, properly bla- zoned, and enriched with other decorations of painting, carving, and gilding, in the Gothic tafte. The delicacy of the Gothic fret-work in the roof over the window on the left fide of the high table, par- ticularly demands our oblervation. This room has been refitted at a large expence, and is adorned with the following portraits of eminent per- fons, educated at, or related to, the college. Over the High Table. Compton, Bp. of London. Corbet, Bp. of Norwich. HENRY VIII. in his regal robes. King, Bp. I Duppa, Bp. I Cardinal | Fell, Bp. j Morley,Bp | Boulter.Ahp of London, j of Winton. j Wolfey. | of Oxon. | of Winton. J of Armagh. On the South Side, beginning at the upper End. Wake, Abp of Canterbury. Potter, Abp of Canterbury. Smalridge, Bp of Briftol. Trevor, Bp of Durham. Lord Mansfield* Hooper, Bp of Bath and Wells. Benfcn, Bp of Gloucefter. Efte, Bp of Waterford. Robinfon, Abp of Armagh. Morton, Bp of Meath. Godwin, fen, Bp of Bath and Wells. Godwin, jun. Bp of LandafF. Matthews, Abp. of York. Fuller, Bp of Lincoln. Gaftrel, Bp of Chefter. Hickman, Bp of London- derry. Sanderfon, Bp of Lincoln. Griffith, Bp of St. Afaph. Over thefe. Smith, Bp of Gloucefter. James, Bp of Durham. Ravis, Bp of London. Bancroft, Bp of Oxford. On the North Side, beginning at the upper End. Sir J. Dolben, Abp of York. Sir J. Trelawney, Bp of Winton. Wood, Bp of Litchf. & Cov. Gilbert, Abp of York. Drummond, Abp of York. Blackbourn, Abp of York. Cox, Abp of Cafhel. Dr. Stratford, canon of Ch. Church. Friend, M. D. Dr. Aldrich, dean of Ch.Ch. Dr. Friend, mafter of Weft- minfter School. Dr. Nicol, canon of Ch.Ch. Richard Frewen, M. D. SirJ. Dolben, Preb. of Durh. Dr. Fell, dean of Ch.Ch. Dr. Bufbey, mafter of Weft- minfter School. — — Pret, Archd. of Rocheft. Over thefe. Wefifaling, Bp of Hereford. Peers, Abp of York. Hetoh, Bp of Ely. Howfon, Bp of Durham. Over the Screen, and on each Side, in the following Order. Lord Arlington. Sir Dudley Carleton. Ellis, Bp. of Kildare. A Bull of GEORGE I. in Marble. King, Bp. of Lond. Mr. Alfop. Locke. Sir Gilb. Dolben. Peter Martyr. The church of this college, which is the cathedral church of the bifhop of Oxford, is fituated to the eaft of the grand quadrangle. It is an ancient venerable ftruc- ture, and was originally the church of St. Fridefwide's monaftery, on or near the fite of which the college is erected. It was finifhed before the year 1200. The roof of the choir is a beautiful piece of ftone-work, put up by cardinal Wolfey, who likewife rebuilt or refitted the fpire as it now ftands. The original one was much loftier. The eaft window is elegantly painted by Mr. Price, fenior, from a defign of Sir James Thornhill, representing the Epiphany. The ile, on the north of the choir, was the dormitory of St. Fridefwide's, in which an ancient monument is fhewn, faid to be the tomb of that faint. She died A.'D. 739. At the weft end of the fame ile is a window painted in a mafterly manner by John Oliver, in the eightieth year of his age, and given by him to the college, A. D. 1700. The fubjedt is St. Peter delivered out of prifon by the angel. There is great expreflion in the attitudes of the fleeping foldiers. Many remains of painted glafs appear in dif- ferent parts of the church, remarkable for ftrength and brilliancy of colour ; the windows having been for the moft part deftroyed, A. D. 1651. But fome of thefe fragments have been lately collected, and with great tafte difpofed into complete windows, or compartments. The tower contains ten mufical bells, brought hither from Ofeney Abbey, as was the great bell, called Tom, above-mentioned. The neighbouring chapter-houfe is worthy the infpedtion of the curious. In this cathedral, choir-fervice is performed at ten and four every dav. This church was defigned by the cardinal for private mattes and theological exercifes only. The foundation ftones OXFORD SHIR E. {tones of the church or chapel intended for the public fervice, may ftill be traced in the gardens on the north fide of the great quadrangle, which, as Wood tells us, would have been an auguft and immenfe work. Peclcwater-court, to the north-eaft of the great qua- drangle, is perhaps the mod elegant edifice in the uni- verfity. It coniifts of three fides, each of which has fifteen windows in front. The middle ftory is Ionic. Its architect was dean Aldrich ; its principal founder Dr. Radcliffe, a canon of this church, aflifted by other Contributions. Oppofite to it is a fumptuous library, one hundred and forty-one feet in length, fupported by pillars of the Corinthian order. It was firft intended to have placed this ftrudture on piazzas, which would have given it a lighter air. The fouth fide of this library is furnifhed with elegant book-cafes extended to the whole length of the room, with a gallery above ; and between the windows on the oppofite fide is likewife placed a feries of book- cafes, reflectively afiigned to the feveral fciences ; over each of which there are beautiful feftoons in ftucco charged with fymbolical imagery, feverally reprefenting the particular branch of literature contained beneath. The ceiling is alfo richly ornamented with mafterly compartments of ftucco. The wainfcotting, &c. which is of the fineft Norway oak, together with the banifters of the gallery, are all highly finifhed with carving. Upon a pedeftal, in a recefs on the north fide, is placed an admirable whole length ftatue of Locke, formerly a ftudent of this houfe, by Roubillac. To- wards the fouth of the library are feveral apartments, furnifhed alfo with book-cafes, and cabinets for ma- nufcripts. Eaft of this court {rands Canterbury Court, originally Canterbury College. It was a diftinct college, founded in 1363 by Iflip, archbifhop of Canterbury ; but after- wards dilTolved, and taken into this foundation. There is, befides, the Chaplain's Court, to the fouth- eaft of Wolfey's quadrangle ; on the north fide of which is a light Gothic edifice, formerly balonging to St. Fridefwide's monaftery, and named St. Lucia's Chapel. It was lately ufed for a library, but it is at prelent adorned with the following curious collection of pic- tures lately belonging to general Guife. A piece of aichitecture, rather large, adorned with many fmall figures very graceful. The architecture by Viviani ; the figures, in his beft manner, by Sebaftiano Ricci. Two heads in one picture, a little fmaller than life. They exhibit two carricaturas, by Spagnoletto. A portrait of fome Spanifh nobleman half length, after the life, nobly painted and well preferved, by Moriglio. A head with part of the fhoulders : it feems to be the portrait of fome great man, by Titiano, in his firft manner. A picture with many figures, two feet high, repre- fenting Solomon's judgment. The invention, difpofition, and colouring, are equally wonderful, by Pafqualini Romano, difciple of Andrea Sacchi. A reprefentation of our Saviour on his way to Cal- vary. The figures almoft as big as the life, by Andrea Mantegna. Mantegna was Corregio's mafter, and this picture was in the collection of Charles I. The rape of the Sabines. A picture of great merit, both for invention and Colouring, the author unknown. A figure as big as the life, of particular beauty, ex- hibiting St. Jerom fervently praying, by Domeni- chino. A head with part of the fhoulders, as big as the life. It is the portrait, painted by himfelf, of Francefco Mob. A fmall fketch reprefenting a facrifice, with the temple of Diana. The figures are many, and wonderfully well difpofed, by Pietro da Cortona. A fmall fketch in light andfhadow, with many figures, reprefenting a faint ready to fuffer martyrdom, drawn with great livelinefs and tafte, by Ant. Vandyke. A fmall odtagonal picture on a black ftone, repre- fenting our Saviour carried to the fepulchre, by Annibal Can.cci, A picture containing feVcral figures about three feet high, exhibiting St. Laurence's martyrdom, by Tin- toretto. A landfcape with figures one foot high, reprefenting the martyrdom of St. Peter Martyr. The figures by Agoftino Caracci. The landfcape by Gobbo de Caracci. A fketch, reprefenting a victorious prince carried in triumph. The figures are many, a foot and a half high, and many of them allegorical, by Giordano d' Anverfa. A large piece of architecture, with figures. In his firft manner, by Nicol. Pouffin. A picture, containing fome half lengths a little bigger than the life, exhibiting Faith that gives her fword to a general, by Pietro della Vecchia. The portrait of a general, half length, a little bigger than the life. It is believed to be a copy from Titian, by Luca Giordano. Figure very artfully fore-fhortened, reprefenting our Saviour dead, as big as the life, by Lodovico Caracci. A picture, exhibiting a battle, full of figures, about one foot high : one of the nobleft performances of Bourgognone. Apollo and Marfyas. The figures about three feet high, by Sebaftiano Ricci. A large picture, containing fome half lengths as big as the life, and reprefenting the taking our Saviour in the garden, by Giacomo da BafTano. A piece, containing many half length figures as big as the life, reprefenting the prodigal fon received by his father. A famous performance of Guercino da Cento. Sophonifba dying with grief in the arms of her damfel, on receiving doleful news. The figures are half lengths as big as the life. A celebrated piece, by Domeni- chino. Our Saviour known by the two difciples in the break- ing of the bread ; the figures bigger than the life, by Lodovico Caracci. The flight into Egypt; the figures as big as the life. A noble work, by Guido Reni. The heads of St. Andrew and St. Paul, bigger than the life ; a valuable performance, by Andrea Sacchi. St. Elizabeth, with St. John, when a babe, mufing on a crofs made of reeds ; the figures fmaller than the life. A renowned piece, by Leonardo da Vinci. Judith holding Holofernes's head ; a half length, very beautiful, by Francefco Salviati. Our Saviour's nativity ; the figures a little more than one foot high, finifhed with extreme diligence. A rare work, by BaldafTare Peruzzi. Our Lady contemplating her babe. The figures about two feet fix inches. Wonderfully well done after Cor- reggio's manner, by Francefco Mazzuoli, commonly called Parmigianino. A half length, as big as the life, reprefenting a naked woman, by Titiano. — It is thought that this is the por- trait of the woman that was Titian's model, when be drew the famous Venus now exifting in the room called La Tribuna, in the Medicean Gallery at Florence. Our Saviour taken down from the crofs ; the figures a little more than one foot high, by Daniele da Volterra. This appears to be the fketch from which Daniel made the large famous picture, that is now in one of the cha- pels of the church called La Trinita de Monit, at Rome. An oval picture, reprefenting Medufa's head, bigger than the life, painted with aftonifhing exprefiion, by Rubens. A Holy Family ; the figures one foot high, com- pletely finifhed, by Annibal Caracci. Our Saviour crowned with thorns ; the figures a foot and a half high. One of the beft works in his firft man- ner, by Correggio. Our Lady, with the two babes, Jefus and John, lay- ing hold of a lamb, and two angels devoutly looking on them, by Francefco Mazzuoli, called Parmigianino. It was formerly in Charles I.'s collection. Socrates and Alcibiades ; half lengths of about a foot and a half, by Giorgione. A fmall picture, reprefenting our Lady's afTumption, and the apoftles, by Francefco Naldini. This was the {ketch of a celebrated picture now in Florence. Our O X F O R Our Saviour's circumcifion ; an original fketch, by Polidoro da Caravaggio. A picture in light and fhadow, reprefenting Diana and nymphs in the bath, changing Acteon into a ftag ; an original beautiful Iketch. The figures are a foot high, by Nicolo dell' Abate. A fmall fketch for a ceiling in light and fhadow, by Corregio. Our Saviour's fupper, a fmall and moft beautiful per- formance, by Innocenzo da Imola. He was one of Raphael's beft difciples. A Venetian hiftory, by Paulo Veronefe. This is an original fketch of one of the large pictures painted by Paolo in the Sala del Configlio, at Venice. A boy's head, as big as the life, by Annibal Caracci. Diana's head, as big as the life, by Camillo Procaccini. St. Catharine, a foot and a half high ; a celebrated and well-preferved performance, by Benvenuto da Ga- rofolo. A landfcape, exhibiting the hunting of the hare ; a beautiful work, by Gobbo de Caracci. Adam and Eve driven out of Paradife by the angel. The figures one foot high : a famous and well-preferved work, by the Cavaliere Guifeppe d' Arpino. The head of a woman fmiling, fmaller than life, by Leonardo da Vinci. A child's head, fmaller than the life, by Fra. Barto- lomeo di San Marco. The pale of an altar, with figures bigger than the life, reprefenting St. Lucy, St. John the Evangelift, St. Homphrey, and St. Francis : a famous performance, by Correggio, except St. Humphrey's figure, which, hav- ing been left unfinifhed by Correggio, was afterwards finifhed by Spagnoletto. The family of the Caraccis reprefented in a butcher's fhop, and thofe celebrated painters in butchers dreffes. Annibal is weighing fome meat to a Swifs of the Car- dinal of Bologna's guard. Agoftino is fhaking a nail, and trying if it holds faft, that he may hang on it a leg of mutton, which he holds in his left hand. The Gobbo is lifting up a calf to hang it on a beam, and Lodovico {loops down killing a fheep. The mother of them is reprefented as a fervant maid that comes to buy fome meat. The likeneffes are traditionally faid to be won- derful ; and the whole of this no lefs odd than beautiful picture was the molt celebrated performance of Annibal Caracci. Three half figures as big as the life, reprefenting three ladies diverting themfelves with mufic, and a gentleman liftening to them. In all probability they were portraits, by Titiano. A fketch of one of the moft capital pictures in Venice, and preferved there in a church. It reprefents our bleffed Lady, with St. Peter and St. Francis, and a Venetian general of the Capello's family come back victorious from a battle agaih'lt the Turks, who offers the Itandard and the trophies of his victory to the altar of our Lady. The whole Capello family is exhibited in this picture : a celebrated work, by Titiano. A landfcape with figures. It reprefents part of the country near Bologna, by Domenichino. A woman reprefenting Simplicity, with a dove in her hand ; a half length, as big as the life, by Francefco Furino. The good Samaritan ; the figures are two feet high ; a valuable picture, by Sifto Badalocchi. Our Lady with her babe, about two feet high, painted much after Correggio's manner, by Sebaftian Ricci. The head of a youth, a little fmaller than life, by Raphael. Two fmall pictures, exhibiting two different martyr- doms of two faints, by Giacomo del Po. A fmall fketch, by Ciro Ferri. A picture, exhibiting our Saviour's nativity. The devotion and maternal affection of our bleffed Lady looking on her babe, is prodigioufly well expreffed. St. Jofeph ftands admiring the compunction of two fhepherds contrafted by another that takes care of the afs. Of two other fhepherds, placed at fome diftance, one holds a light in his hand, and fhews the other the manger, 27 D S H I R E. 261 expreffing a pious wonder. Further off, there is a moft beautiful angel in the clouds, proclaiming the birth of our Saviour to the fhepherds. No picture ever furpafled this moft elaborate performance of Titiano. It was one of king Charles I.'s collection ; and there are two prints of it, an ancient one in wood, the other in copper-plate. Another nativity, painted likewife with his ufual deli- cacy and noble expreflion, by the fame Titiano. Our Lady with her babe in her arms ; near as big as life, ftanding on the clouds, fupported and attended by cherubs and angels. Under it there is a fight of the town of Bologna, and adjacent villages, all painted in his beft mannef, by Annibal Caracci. Sufanna tempted by the two old men, boldly and vi- goroufly painted as big as the life, by Agoftino Caracci. The flaughter of the Innocents, containing nineteen figures as big as the life. A mafter-piece, both for com- pofition and colouring, by Valerio Caftelli. Two children bigger than the life, reprefenting Holy Love the conqueror of Prophane Love ; one of the belt performances in his firft manner, by Guido Rheni. A lively figure of an Italian buffoon drinking merrily, an half figure, as big as the life, by Annibal Caracci. The portrait of fome nobleman, a little more than a half length, by Francefco Forbido, commonly called II Moro Veronefe. This painter was much admired by Titian himfelf. A nativity of our Saviour ; the figures about one foot high. The effect of the light that fhines out of the babe, and irradiates the whole picture, is aftonifhing. This is a celebrated piece, by Cavalier Cavedone. A head as big as the life, reprefenting our Saviour, painted in a bold manner, by Agoftino Caracci. Apollo in the attitude of flaying Marfyas. The figures about two feet high, by Andrea Sacchi. Two fmall pictures, the one reprefenting a mounte- bank drawing a tooth to a clown, furrounded by many fpectators ; the other exhibiting many people playing at balls upon the ground. By Michael Angelo delle fiat- taglie. A fmall picture, containing our Lady and her babe. St. Jofeph, and St. Catharine, half figures, finely painted, by Bartolomeo Schidone. A fmall picture, reprefenting an angel that contem- plates, with a moft afflicted look, one of the nails with which our Saviour was crucified, holding it up in his hand ; by Correggio. A moft beautiful fketch, reprefenting our Saviour laid in the fepulchre, with the Virgin, who has fwooned, and is fupported by the three Marys, by Giacomo da Baifano. Four fmall pictures, containing fome figures two feet high, moft mafterly painted, by Francefco Mazzuoli, called 11 Parmigianino. A fmall picture with many figures, reprefenting our Saviour fhewn to the people by Pilate : a noble per- formance, by Frederigo Barocci. A fmall picture, reprefenting our Saviour appearing to Mary Magdalen in the gardener's form, by Raphael's mafter, Pietro Perugino. The infant Jefus and St. John embracing ; an excel-, lent performance, and well preferved, by Raphael. Three heads in water-colours, bigger than the life, by Raphael. A head of Jofeph of Arimathea, as big as the life, by Frederigo Barocci. A half length, a little fmaller than the life, repre- fenting St. Catharine : a rare ancient picture, by Vettori Carpacio. Our Lady with her babe and St. John ; the figures two feet high : an incomparable performance of Andrea del Sarto. A fmall picture reprefenting a father with his two children praying, by Holbein. A nativity of our Saviour, containing eighteen figures two feet high. The pofture of our Lady, who offers her breaft to her babe, and that of the babe itfelf, are moft graceful ; St. John with them completes one of the beft groups that the art of painting ever produced ; and equally graceful is another group of three angels playing X x x upon 26z OXFORD upon mufical inftruments. Two other angels defcend- ing from heaven in an attitude of adoration. Many more beautiful attitudes of devotion are thofe of the fhepherds, that fill up the left fide of this aftonifliing performance of the immortal Raphael. Our Lady with her babe, St. Catharine and St. Francis. The proportion of the figures two feet. An excellent and well-preferved performance of Paolo Veronefe. The view of a noble temple, our Saviour coming out of it, meets with Magdalen, who is by him converted in the prefence of fome other women. An excellent and well-preferved performance, done in his firft manner, by Andrea del Sarto. Two half lengths, as big as the life, of two women, one the miftrefs, the other her maid. The miftrefs was probably a portrait. She holds the looking-glafs with one hand, and with the other adjufts her head, liltening to the maid that fpealcs to her. This is one of the beft works of Domenichino. Our Lady with her babe, the Magdalen, St. John, and St. Jerom. The figures are about three feet high, painted with the greateft gracefulnefs, by Parmigia- nino. A Cupid drawn by two doves in a golden car, and two other Cupids playing about him encircled by a flower garland : a picture extremely well preferved, as well as mafterly done, by Domenichino. A copy of the famous nativity, known under the name of Correggio's Night - x the figures two feet high, by Carlo Cignani. Diana in the bath converting Acteon into a flag, with h.pr nymphs about her : an elegant compofition nobly coloured, the figures a foot and a half, by Tintoretto. The communion of the apoftles, the figures a little above two feet. There is a kindled lamp in this picture, which has a ftriking effect, and the whole is painted with great vigour, by Tintoretto. St. John preaching in the defart, beautified with many well-difpofed figures, by Gobbo de Caracci. The fable of Erictonius delivered to the nymphs to be educated. Their fear and wonder in fpying the boy's ferpentine feet, and their different attitudes, are molt beautifully exprefled. Each figure is about half the bignefs of nature, and painted with great fpirit, by Salvator Rofa. A landfcape, exhibiting Mofes delivering from the fnares of the fhepherds, the daughters of Reuel, the prieft of Midian, that came to give drink to their cattle, ■ by Domenichino. Another fmall landfcape, exhibiting fome fifhermen, and women wafhing linen, by the fame Domenichino. A youth little lefs than life, that plays upon the guitar, with a boy behind that liftens with pleafure to him. By the celebrated Spanifh difciple of Titian, Fernandos. A half length, reprefenting our Lord tempted in the defart, by Titian. Two molt beautiful cherubs heads as big as the life, by Domenichino. A St. John's head with a lamb, as big as the life, in his beft manner, by Guercino da Cento. Marfyas and Apollo, with Midas that fits as their judge. The figures about a foot high : a fine perform- ance, both for invention and colouring, by Andrea Schiavone. A copy of the famous Correggio's Cupid, as big as the life, by Annibal Carracci. An Ecce Homo, as big as the life, painted with great force of exprefflon, by Ludovico Caracci. Our Lord laid in the fepulchre ; the figures a little more than a foot ; another noble work of Ludovico Caracci. St. Francis in a vifion fupported by angels. The figures about two feet high, admirably well painted, by Annibal Caracci. A little landfcape, adorned with fome pretty little figures, and it looks as if painted after nature, by Gobbo de Caracci. A Venus and Cupid as big as the life : an aftonifhing performance, by Titiano. SHIRE. A copy of the celebrated pictures of Raphael in the Roman Vatican. This reprefents an atchievement of the emperor Conftantine. This copy appears to be the work of fome great painter of the Florentine School, being done in the moft mafterly manner. A choir of angels playing on feveral mufical inftru- ments, their proportion about a foot and a half. God, the Father, fupported by three cherubs, by Guido Reni. This is thought to be the original fketch of a picture done in frefco by Guido, in St. Gregory's church at Rome. The martyrdom of St. Erafmus, the figures about two feet high. This is the original fketch of the famous picture preferved in St. Peter's at Rome, by Nicolo Pouffin. Two pictures adorned with many beautiful figures, whofe proportion is about two feet. One reprefents the age of iron, the other of copper ; and they are the ori- ginal models of the two pictures in frefco, that are in the palace of Pitti at Florence, by Pietro da Cortona. The original fketch of one of the ceilings painted in the Barberrni's palace at Rome, by Pietro da Cortona. It reprefents many allegorical figures. A half-length portrait as big as nature. The figure has a letter in one hand, by Lodovico Caracci. The portrait of Maria Robufti ; a half length as big as nature, by Paris Bourdon. The picture of a woman as big as life, half length, by Giorgione da Caftel Franco. A head, with part of the fhoulders, reprefenting a Greek merchant, as big as the life, by Michael Angelo da Caravaggio. Our Lady, with her babe, and St. John ; the figures near as big as the life. An excellent performance, by Titiano. A half length with the hands, reprefenting Diogenes the Cynic ; mafterly done, by Spagnoletto. A half-length portrait of himfelf, by Tintoretto. A portrait, down to the knee, of the celebrated Nau- gerius, as big as the life, by Tintoretto. The nativity of our Saviour, enriched with many beautiful figures about one foot high, by Francefco Zuccarelli. A cartoon in water-colours, reprefenting the Holy Family. The figures near as big as the life, by Andrea del Sarto. An emperor on horfeback ; the horfe white, the pro- portion about two feet ; a bold and noble work of Giulio Romano. It was once in king Charles I.'s collection. A finifhed fketch of king Charles I.'s white horfe ; its proportion about two feet, by Vandyke. The flaughter of the Innocents, and Herod on a throne commanding it, by Bourgognone. Ariadne abandoned by Thefeus ; a naked figure as big as the life, by Francefco Furino. Nor fhould we omit an elegant range of building on the fouth, commonly called Fell's, which fronts a noble walk belonging to the College, called the White Walk, upwards or two furlongs in length, and fifty feet wide, ftiaded on each fide with lofty elms, and commanding a delightful profpect of the adjacent meadows, the river, and the neighbouring villages. The ben^/actors here have been numerous. The principal are, dean Fell, lady Holford, and the late Dr. Lee, who by his laft will configned a legacy of twenty thoufand pounds, and upwards, for the fupport of feveral new and ufeful inflitutions in the College. One of thefeis an anatomy- fchool, which has been lately finifhed in an elegant and commodious tafte, with an ample fti- pend for a lecturer. It is fituated on the fouth fide of the hall. This college, or church, confifts of one dean, eight canons, eight chaplains, eight finging men, one or- ganift, eight chorifters, one hundred and one ftudents, befides many independent members. The whole num- ber about one hundred and eighty. TRINITY OXFORDSHIRE. TRINITY COLLEGE. Among the religious houfes difiblved by Henry VIII. there was a college here for the education of the monks of the cathedral church of Durham, which was there- fore called Durham College. This houfe being granted by Icing Edward VI. in 1552, the feventh year of his reign, to his phyfician George Owen, was, in 1554* purchafed by Sir Thomas Pope, knight, who, in 1555, lepaired the building, and endowed it for a prefident, twelve fellows, and eight fcholars, calling it Trinity College. It ftands oppofite to the Turl, and has a fpacious avenue, fenced from the ftreet by an handfome iron pallifade, with folding gates, adorned on the outfide with the arms of the donor, the earl of Guildford, and on the infide with thofe of the founder. This avenue leads us to the front of the college, which confifts of the chapel, and the gateway, with its tower. Over the gate, in ftone, are the arms of the founder, furrounded with a wreath of laurel, and fupported by the Genii of Fame. In the firft court are the chapel, hall, library, and lodgings of the prefident. The chapel has a peculiar elegance, which refults from an afTemblage of the moft finiihed, and yet the moft iimple ornaments. The carvings about the fcreen, which is of cedar, are very mafterly. The altar-piece, of the fame wood, is,- befides other embellifhments, charged with exquifite feftoons by Guibbons. Under an alcove near the altar, is a fine Gothic tomb, on which are the effigies of the liberal founder and his lady, in alabafter. The ceiling is covered with a bold and beau- tiful ftucco. In the midft of it is an Afcenfion, which, on the whole, is executed in a good tafte, but perhaps has too much of the French manner. It was painted by Peter Berchett, a Frenchman. The hall is fpacious and well-proportioned, in the Gothic ftile, and adorned with portraits of the founder and his lady; and of three prefidents, Kettel, Bathurfl, and Sykes. In the library is fhewn a valuable manufcript of Eu- clid ; being a tranflation from the Arabic into Latin, before the difcovery of the original Greek, by Adelardus Bathonienfis, in 1130. It is extremely fair, and con- tains all the books. It was given by the founder, to- gether with feveral other manufcripts ; who likewife furnifhed this library with many coftly printed volumes, chiefly in folio, at that time elleemed no mean col- lection. The fecond court is an elegant pile, planned by Sir Chriftopher Wren, and faid, by Wood, to be one of the firft pieces of modern architecture that appeared in the univerfity. It confifts of three fides, the north and weft of which are to be raifed and finifhed in the manner of that on the fouth. The opening to the gardens on the eaft, has a lingular and moft agreeable effect. The gardens are exteniive, and laid out into two di- vifions. T he firft, or larger divifion, is chiefly thrown into open grafs-plots. The north wall is covered with a beautiful yew-hedge. The centre walk is terminated by a well-wrought iron gate, with the founder's arms at the top, fupported by two fuperb piers. The fouthern divifion is a pleafing folitude, confifting of fhady walks, with a vvildernefs of flowering fhrubs, difpofed into fer- pentine paths, and much frequented. The principal, and almoft only benefactor, is Dr. Ralph Bathurft, formerly prefident, who expended nineteen hundred pounds in rebuilding the chapel, the ancient one above-mentioned having been miferably de- faced in the civil wars. This college confifts of one prefident, twelve fellows, and twelve fcholars, inftitutcd by the founder. Thefe, with the independent members, amount to near feventy. St. JOHN BAPTIST'S COLLEGE. In 1555, being the fecond of Philip and Mary, Sir Thomas White, alderman of London, purchafed a building belonging to this univerfity, called St. Ber- nard's College, formerly in pofleflion of the monks of St. Bernard ; and in ^57, endowed it, by the name of St. John Baptift's College, for a prefident, fifty fellows and fcholars, three chaplains, three lay clerks, and fix chorifters ; but the chaplains, lay-clerks, and chorifters, were about twenty years afterwards fupprefled by the prefident and fellows. This ftructure ftands in a retired fituation, on the north of Baliol and Trinity Colleges. Before its front is a handfome terrace, fhaded with a row of lofty elms. It chiefly confifts of two courts. In the firft are the chapel, and hall, on the north, and the prefident's lodgings on the eaft. The chapel is decently furnifhed. The fcreen and altar are finiihed in the Corinthian order. Over the communion-table is a beautiful piece of tapeftry, representing our Lord .breaking bread with the two difciples at Emmaus, from a famous original of Titian. The circumftance of the dog fnarling at the cat, under the table, is remarkable. The organ, which ftands in an alcove on the north fide, has a fplendid ap- pearance, and was erected by Sir William Paddy, Knt. A. D. 1 61 8. Choir-fervice is here performed twice every day, at eleven and five. On the north wall of this chapel, eaftward of the organ, is a fingular curiofity. A marble urn, contain- ing the heart of Dr. Rawlinfon, inclofed in a filver veffel, which was placed here according to the directions in his laft will. The hall is fitted up in the modern tafte, with great elegance. The fcreen is of Portland ftone, in the Ionic order ; and the wainfcot in the fame order, is remarkably beautiful. The roof and floor are correfpondent to the reft. The chimney-piece is magnificent, of variegated marble, over which is a picture of Sr. John the Baptiit, by Titian. It is likewife adorned with feveral other excellent pieces : at the upper end is a whole-length portrait of the founder, with archbifhop Laud on the right, and archhifhop Juxon on the left. On the north and fouth fides are thofe of bifhop Mew, bifhop Buckridge, Sir William Paddy, Knt. and of other eminent men, who have either illuftrated this fociety by their learning, or enriched it by their beneficence. The common room, on the north fide of the hall, fhould not be neglected. Its ceiling is a good piece of ftucco, by Mr. Roberts ; and the whole room is hand- fomely adorned in general. The fecond court, which we enter through a paffage on the eaft fide of the firft, is the defign of Inigo Jones, and built in 1635. The eaft and weft fides exhibit, each, a beautiful Doric colonade, whofe columns confift of a remarkable fpecics of ftone, faid to be dug at Fifidd, in Berks. In the centre of each colonade are formed two porticos, charged with a profufion of embellifhments. Over thefe, on each fide, are two good ftatues in brafs j that on the eaft, of Charles I. and that on the weft, of his queen. They were eaft by Francis Fanelli, a Flo- rentine. Their refpective niches are ornamented with the Ionic and Corinthian orders ; and the whole has an elegant and agreeable appearance. But perhaps it may be thought, that this building is not in the pureft tafte of its celebrated architect. The upper ftories of the fouth and eaft fides form the library. The firft divifion confifts of printed books ; the fecond of manufcripts, chiefly given by archbifhop Laud. This, as it is furnifhed with cafes of iron lattice- work, which are difpofed in a parallel direction with the fides, forms an ample and airy gallery. In this room, the archbifhop above-mentioned entertained Charles I. and his court, with a magnificent feaft. In the archives are many curiofities ; particularly a drawing of king Charles I. which contains the book of Pfalms written in the lines of the face and hair of the head. Alfo a picture of St. John the Baptift ftained in marble. The gardens are extenfive ; and on the whole are a moft agreeable retreat. The inner grove, as it is com- monly called, has all thofe graces which arife from a regulated variety, and from a fucceffion of beauties fo difpofed as tofirike us gradually and unexpectedly. The benefactors have been very numerous, andnolefs confiderable. Sir William Paddy, knight, founded and endowed the prefent choir, that originally eftablifhed by 164- OXFORD by the founder, having been diflblved by unanimous confent of the fociety, A. D. 1577, the revenues of the college being found infufficient for its maintenance. Archbifhop Laud erected the fecond court, itsfouth fide excepted, which was built A. D. 1595, with the ffones of the Carmelite frierv in Gloucefter-green , the Com- pany of Merchant Taylors in London, amongft feveral other benefactions, contributing two hundred pounds. Archbifhop Juxon gave feven thoufand pounds to aug- ment the fellowships ; Dr. Holmes, formerly prefident, with his lady, gave fifteen thoufand pounds for improv- ing the falariesof the officers, and other purpofes. And Dr. Rawlinfon, above-mentioned, granted the reverfion of a large eftate in fee-farm rents. The college has likewife largely experienced the beneficence of many others, who have liberally contributed towards the im- provement of its building and revenues. The prefent members are, one prefident, fifty fellows, two chaplains, one organift, five finging men, fix cho- rifters, and two fextons. The number of ftudents is about feven ty. JESUS COLLEGE. In 1571, Hugh Price, doctor of the canon laws in this univerfity, procured a charter from queen Eliza- beth, for building and endowing a college here for a principal, eight fellows, and eight fcholars. The queen agreed to furnifh timber for the building, upon condi- tion that fhe fhould have the firft nomination of the principal, fellows, and fcholars, and that the college fhould be called Collegium Jefu infra civitatem cjf univerft- tatem Oxon. ex fundatione regince Elizabeths ; whence this fociety claim the honour of a royal founder. In the firft court is the hall, in which is a portrait of queen Elizabeth, with a ceiling of well-executed ftucco, by Mr. Roberts ; the principal's lodgings, in which is ihewn a valuable picture of Charles I. at full length, by Vandyke ; and the chapel, which is handfomely fur- niffoed, and well proportioned. Of thefe, the firft was erected A. D. 1617; the fecond foon after the year 1621 ; and the laft was completed in 1636. Three fides of the inner court, begun by Dr. Manfel, one of the principals, a little before the Grand Rebellion, are finifhed in a decent and uniform manner. The li- brary is on the weft fide, which is a well furnifhed room, and adorned, among other portraits, with a curious pic- ture of Dr. Hugh Price, probably painted by Hans Hol- bein. It has been engraved as fuch by Vertue. The chief benefactors are, Sir Eubule Thelwall, knight, formerly principal, who encreafed the number of fellows and fcholars from eight to fixteen ; Francis Manfell, D. D. Sir Leoline Jenkins, Charles I. and many others. The particular circumftances of whofe refpective donations towards the improvement of the buildings, revenues, and difcipline of this houfe, de- ferve a more copious panegyric, and a more diftinct difplay, than this work will allow. In the Burfary is fhewn a magnificent piece of plate, the gift of the late Sir Watkin Williams Wynne; alfo the ftatutes of the college, molt exquifitely written on vellum, by the Rev. Mr. Parry of Shipfton uponStowre, formerly fellow. This college confifts of one principal, nineteen fel- lows, eighteen fcholars, with many exhibitioners and independent ftudents. The whole number about ninety. WADHAM COLLEGE. Nicholas Wadham, Efq; fometime a gentleman com- moner in this univerfity, having laid the defign of build- ing a college here, directed it to be carried into exe- cution by his will ; and accordingly, Dorothy, his wi dow and executrix, in 1609, purchafed the fite of a dif- folved priory of the canons of St. Auftin in this city, and erected a noble quadrangle, with ftatues of herfelf and her hufband over the weftern gate ; and having pro- cured a royal charter, impowering her to endow it for a warden, fifteen fellows, fifteen fcholars, two chaplains, two clerks, and other inferior officers, by the name of SHIRE. Wadham College, it was opened, and the feveral mem- bers admitted accordingly, on the twelfth of April, 1613. It ftands in the northern fuburb, called Holywell, the front being oppofite to Trinity Gardens. Under a {lately central tower we enter the Quadrangle, which is nearly one hundred and thirty feet fquare. A portico, decorated with the ftatue of the founder, the foundrefs, James I. and other ornaments, leads us to the hall. This is a fpacious and lofty Gothic room, furnifhed with fome valuable portraits. From hence we pafs into a cloifter, which conftitutes one fide of a fmall area ; the chapel being on the left, and the kitchen, with the library over it, on the right. The cloifter, with its fuperftructure, in the midft of which is a hand- fome common room, forms a fort of eaft front, from whence we have a beautiful profpedt over the meadows to the diftant hills. This room has a molt admirable portrait of an old woman. The chapel is fpacious and venerable. The ante- chapel, like thofe at Merton, New College, All Souls, and Magdalen, runs at right angles to the choir, having a proportionable height, length, and breadth. The eaft window is admirably painted by Van Ling, a Dutch- man, A. D. 1622. It was given by Sir John Strange- ways, reprefents the Paffion of our Lord, and is faid to have coft fifteen hundred pounds. The windows on the right fide are perhaps by the fame hand ; but thofe on the left are poor, and of a later age. The curious fpectator will be extremely pleafed with a molt fingular piece of painting which furrounds the altar. There is nothing of the kind now to be feen in Oxford ; but the altar-pieces of Magdalen and All Souls were formerly finilhed in the fame manner. The paint- ing is on cloth, which being of an afh-colour, ferves for the medium : the lines and (hades are done with a brown crayon, and the lights and heightening with a white one. Thefe dry colours being preffed with hot irons, which produced an exfudation from the cloth, are fo in- corporated into its texture and fubftance, that they are proof againft a brufh, or even the harfheft touch. The figures are finely drawn, and have a wonderful effect. It is the workmanfhip of Ifauc Fuller, who painted the Refurrection-piece over ihe altar at Magdalen, and flou- rifhed near an hundred years fince. The fubjedt of the front is the Lord's Supper; on the north fide, Abraham and Melchifedeck ; and on the fouth, the children of Ifrael gathering manna, are reflectively reprefented. The buildings of this houfe have not received the leaft alteration from the time of the foundrefs ; and, as they now ftand, are the entire refult of the firft archi- tect. From this circumftance they derive an uniformity and regularity fcarcely to be paralleled in any other col- lege of this univerfity. The critical obferver muft alfo take notice, that the ftyle of architecture in this college correfponds, in many particulars, with that of the public fchools, and of the inner quadrangle at Merton College. Thefe three edifices are all of the fame age, and were moft probably planned by the fame artift. That inde- fatigable antiquary, Mr. Hearne, among his many curious refearches, difcovered, that the public fchools were de- figned by Thomas Holt of York. The principal benefactors are, John Goodridge, A. M. who gave, A.'D. 1654, his whole eftate at Waltham- ftow in EfTex, for the endowment of feveral exhibitions, &c. and Dr. Hody, Greek profefibr, who founded four exhibitions for ftudents in Hebrew, and fix for others in Greek, of ten pounds each. Dr. Philip Biffe, arch- deacon of Taunton, gave above two thoufand volumes to the library, in which is preferved his portrait at full length, given by the foundrefs. Lord Wyndham very 1 lately bequeathed two thoufand pounds, fifteen hundred of which are appointed for the increafe of the warden's falary, and the refidue for ornamenting the houfe. Lifle, the late warden, bifhop of Norwich, added two exhibitions. This college confifts of one warden, fifteen fellows, and fifteen fcholars ; two chaplains, two clerks, and fixteen exhibitioners. The number of ftudents of every kind about fifty. P E M- O X F O R D S H I R E. PEMBROKE COLLEGE. Thomas Tifdale, of Glimpton, near Woodftock, Efq; by his will, dated the thirtieth of June, 1610, left five thoufand pounds to purchafe an eftate, for the maintenance of certain fellows and fcholars, to be chofen from the free-fchool of Abingdon in Berkfhire, into any college of this univerfity. The truftees of this will offered to increafe the fociety of Baliol College, by Mr. Tifdale's legacy, with feven fellows and fix fcholars ; but not coming to an agreement, Dr. Richard Whight- wick, formerly a member of Baliol College, perfuaded the truftees of Mr. Tifdale's will to purchafe a building, originally belonging to the priory of St. Fridefwide, called Broadgate-hall, for the fettlement of this charity; and promifed, upon that condition, that he himfeif would be a confiderable benefactor. Mr. Tifdale's truftees, therefore, procured a royal charter, dated the twenty-ninth of June, 1624, impowering them to found a college within the limits of Broadgate-hall, for one matter, ten fellows, and ten fcholars, by the name of Pembroke College, which name was given it in honour of William earl of Pembroke, then chancellor of the univerfity. The royal charter alio impowered George, archbifhop of Canterbury, William earl of Pembroke, and Dr. Richard Whightwick, to make a body of fta- tutes for the fociety, who were allowed to purchafe lands and tenements to the yearly value of feven hundred pounds. Soon after this, the fellows and fcholars were put in poffeffion of their college ; but the number of ftudents increafingfo much, that the building could not accommodate them, the fociety annexed to their col- lege certain chambers, called Abingdon Lodgings, and" Camby Lodgings. We pafs to this college in a direct line from the grand pate of Chrift-church. At our entrance, the matter's lodgings, on the right, make a handfome appearance, which are large and convenient. The firft quadrangle is neat and uniform, though fmall. From this we are led, by the north-weft angle, into the hall, which is adorned with pictures of the founders and benefactors ; from thence into an irregular area, on one fide of which ftands the chapel. This is a modern edifice of the Ionic order. The altar is juftly admired for its neatnefs, and the whole is elegantly finifhed, and properly adorned. It was built by contribution, and confecrated 1^1732. Their former chapel was an ifle, in the adjoining church of St. Aldate. Weftward of the chapel is the garden, in which is a pleafant common-room, and an agreeable terrace- walk, formed on the city-wall. Dr. Hall, mafter, and bifhop of Briftol, built the lodgings of the mafter, together with the gateway of the college, foon after the Reitoration. The fociety at prefent confifts of one mafter, fourteen fellows, an d upwards of thirty fcholars and exhibitioners. WORCESTER COLLEGE. In this univerfity there was a hall called Glocefter- hall, from having been originally a feminary for edu- cating the monks of Glcucefter. On the fupprefiion of abbies, it fell into the king's hands ; and afterwards, by a royal grant from queen Elizabeth, it came to one Mr. Doddington, from whom it was purchafed by Sir Tho- mas White, founder of St. John Baptift's College, and by him repaired in fome meafure, endowed, and con- veyed to that fociety, who made it a houfe for ftudents, under a principal ; but in 1 7 1 4, this hall was endowed by Sir Thoma; Cooke of Aftiey, near the city of Wor- cefter, in the county of that name, Bart, for a provoft, fix fellows, and fix fcholars ; upon which it was erected to a college, by the name of Worcefter College. It is fituated at the extremity of the weftern fuburb, on an eminence which defcends to the river and mea- dows. The grand court, or area, confifts of three fides, which are all completed in the modern tafte. On the weft it is propofed to form a garden, Hoping to the wa- ter ; fo that a moft agreeable profpect will be opened to the college. The library is a beautiful Ionic edifice, one hundred feet in length, fupported by a fpacious 27 cloifter. It is furnifhed with a fine collection of books, the gift of Dr. Clarke, formerly fellow of All Souls College. Its greateft curiofity is Inigo Jones's Palladio, with his own manufcript notes in Italian. At our entrance into the college, we have on each, fide the chapel and hall, both of which are fifty feet in length, and twenty-nine in breadth. On the whole, this houfe, when executed according to the plan, will be a well-difpofed, elegant ftructure. Here are one provoft, twenty fellows, feventeen fcho- lars, &c. The whole number about forty. HERTFORD COLLEGE. Here was a building formerly cailed Hart-hall, from Elias de Hartford, who, in the reign of Edward L de- mifed it, under this name, to fome fcholars of the uni- verfity. It was afterwards purchafed by Walter Staple- don, bifhop of Exeter, and founder of Exeter College, who, on the tenth of May, 1312, had a charter granted him, for affigning this hall, together with another tene- ment called Arthur's Hall, to twelve fcholars. So long as the bifhop's fcholars continued here, it was called fctapledon Hall ; but they removing, it recovered its former name. Exeter College had long the nomination of a principal to this hall, and many of the fellows of New College refided here with their warden, while that college was building. Here were formerly twelve ftu- dents, to whom the univerfity paid a yearly penfion of fifty pounds, upon account of the abbot and monks of Glaftenbury, a market-town of Somerfetfhire, for the maintenance of fuch youth as were fent hither from Glaitenbury fchool : but this hall being endowed by its late principal, Dr. Richard Newton, for a principal, four fenior fellows, or tutors, and junior fellows, or affiftants, befides a certain number of ftudents, or fcho- lars, was, upon the eighth of September 1740, erected to a college, by the name of Hertford College. It ftands oppolite to the grand gate of the Schools. It confifts of one irregular court, which has been lately beautified from a fund raifed for that purpofe by the late principal. Part of this court confifts of a fmall quantity of modern buildings, viz. the fouth-eaft angle, and the chapel e ected about thirty years fince, in the ftile of which the whole college is to be rebuilt. The foundation confifts of a principal, four fenior fellows or tutors, and junior fellows or afiiftants, be- fides a certain number of ftudents or fcholars. There are at prefent about thirty members. Befides the above. Colleges, there are five Halls in the Univerfity of Oxford, viz. I. ALBAN HALL. This hall is contiguous to Merton College on the eaft. It appears to have been a houfe of learning in the reign of Edward I. and received its name from Robert de St. Alban, a citizen of Oxford, who, in the reign of Henry III. conveyed this tenement to the nuns of Littlemore. The front is decent, erected by Benedict Barnham, alderman of London, A. D. J 595. It has a fmall refectory, and no chapel. II. St. EDMUND's HALL. This hall is. fituated to the eaft of Queen's College. Ic was firft eftablifhed about the reign of Edward II. and was configned to Queen's College, A. D. 1557. It has a library, refectory, and chapel, which are neat and commodious. III. S t. M A R Y HALL. It is fituated in Oriel Lane, to the fouth of St. Mary's chureh. For its original we refer the reader to our ac- count of Oriel College. It confifts of an elegant little court, which enclofes a neat garden. It has a library; with a handfome, though fmall chapel, and refectory. Eral mus, Sir Thomas More, and Sandys the poet, ftudied in this houfe. It has fome exhibitioners. Y yy iv. new 266 O X F »0 R D IV. NEW INN HAL L. This hall ftands near the church of St. Peter in the Bailey, towards the caftle. It was configned to ftudents by John Trillock, bifhop of Hereford, A. D. 1345. It is eminent for the education of many learned civilians. It has no chapel. Almoft oppofite to this hall ftands part of the gateway of St. Mary's Coilege, in which Erafmus refided for fome time. He has left an elegant Latin poem on his manner of living here. It was founded A. D. 1437, for novices of the Auguftin order, and fupprefted at the Reformation. V. MAGDALEN HALL. This hall is almoft contiguous to Magdalen College on the weft. A very confiderable part of it is the gram- mar-fchool for the chorifters of Magdalen College, erected, with the college, by the founder, William of Wainfleet, for that purpofe alone. To this ftrucfure other buildings being added, it grew by degrees into an academical hall. It has a well furnilhed library, with a neat chapel, and refectory. Here are fcveral exhibi- tions. This feminary boafts the education of lord Cla- rendon, the celebrated hiftorian. About the year 730, Didanus, a petty king in thefe parts, is laid to have founded a nunnery at Oxford, dedicated to St. Mary and All Saints, which at firft confifted of twelve idigious virgins of noble birth, under the government of his own daughter Fridefwide", who was buried here, and afterwards canonized for a faint; whence this mcnaftery, in courfe of time, was dedicated to her memory, and almoft always called by her name. This houfe, after having fucceffively been in the pof- feffion of fecular canons, mo les, priefts. and regular canons, of the order of St. Auftin, continued in being till it was diffolved by pope Clement VII. at the inftance of Cardinal Wolley, when its annual revenues were rated at two hundred and twenty-four pounds, four {hillings and eight-pence. Upon the fite of this mo- naftery, Chrift-church College was founded, and partly endowed hy its revenues. In the caftle of Oxford there was a collegiate church for fecular canons, founded and endowed in 1074, by Robert D'Oily, and Roger Iveri ; but this church, with all its revenues, was, in 1149, annexed to a houfe of regular canons at Oleney, near this city; and the buildings were afterwards occupied by ftudents. There is an ancient manufcript, quoted by fome writers, which makes mention of a monaftery here, de- dicated to St. Aldatus, before the year 11 22. About a mile eaftward of this city, there is yet in being a little hofpital, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, as ancient as the reign of king Henry I. Jt confifted for- merly of a matter, who was a prieft, two healthful brethren, fix infirm or leprous brethren, and a clerk. In 1328, king Edward III. gave it to Oriel College, upon condition of maintaining in it a chaplain and eight poor brothers. Here was an hofpital dedicated to St. John Baptift, confiding of a matter and feveral brothers and fifters, in the reign of king John. King Henry III. new-founded, or at leaft new-built it, in 1 233, laying the firft ftone himfelf ; and king Henry VI. gave the mafter and bre- thren leave to give up and convey this houfe, and all the eftates belonging to it, to William Wainfleet, bifhop of Winchefter, about the year 1456, who, on or near the fite of it, laid the foundation of Magdalen College. The Dominican friars, upon their coming to Eng- land in 1221, repaired to Oxford, where Label de Bul- bec, widow to Robert earl of Oxford, gave them ground in a parifh called St. Edward's, upon which to build a houfe and chapel ; but about forty years afterwards, they removed their habitation to a little ifland, near a gate called Waterga e, in a parifh called St. Ebb's, which was given them by king Henry III. and here they continued till the dillolution. The Erancifcan friars came to Oxford in 1224, and fettled alfo in St. Ebb's parifh, in houles affigned them SHIRE. by Richard le Mercer, Richard le Miller, Thomas Walongs, and others. The Carmelite friars firft fettled in this city in 1225, in an houfe given them by Nicholas de Moiis, fometime governor of the caftle of Oxford, on the weft fide of a ftreet called Stockwell-ftreet, on the ground where Worcefter College now ftands ; but fixty years after- wards, king Edward II. gave to twenty-four of thefe friars a royal palace called Heaumont, built by king Henry I. in the north part of the city, where they con- tinued till the diffolution. Without the weft gate of this city, near the caftle, ori a piece of ground where formerly flood a church dedi- cated to St. Benedict, king Henry III. placed the friars de Sacco, who continued here till they were fup- prefied, with fome other mendicant friars, in 1307. In 1268, Henry III. gave the friars heremites of the order of St. Auguftine, a piece of ground in Holywell parifh, on which to build a chapel and lodgings, and here they continued till the general fuppreflion. On the fouth fide of the ftreet without the eaft gate, over-againft Magdalen Hall, Edmund earl of Cornwall founded a fmall houfe and chapel for Trinitarian friars, of the redemption of captives, in J 291, in which, and in a chapel dedicated to the Trinity, within Eaft-gate, the brethren of this order, and fevera! poor fcholars who lived upon alms, continued till near the time of the ge- neral diflolution. Oxford fends four members to parliament, viz. two for the city, and two for the univerlity. The markets are on Wednefday and Saturday ; befides which, there are three annual fairs, viz. the third of May, Monday after the firft of September, and Thurfday before Mi- chaelmas, for toys and fmall ware. About f.'ven miles and a half from Oxford, is the pa- lace of Blenheim, fituated in Woodftock park. It is a vaft and magnificent pile of building, a royal gift to the exalted merit of the invincible duke of Marlborough. The roof is adorned with a ftone baluftrade, and a good number of ftatues ; but there aie feveral towers, or, as fome call them, cupolas, (though they refemble nei- ther) which have a very heavy afpect : thefe are far from being an ornament, and fee n fuch an ufelefs weight, that one would think they were intended to fink the fabric beneath the furface of the earth ; which oc- cafioned the following epitaph on the deceafed ar- chitect, Vanbrugh : Lie heavy on him, Earth ! for he Laid many a heavy load on thee. The lofty hall is painted by Sir James Thornhill, the ceiling by La Guerre. The rooms are finely en- liched with marble chimney-pieces and furniture, but more by the incomparable paintings and hangings, which latter reprefent the principal glories of the duke's life. Among the pictures, are many of Rubens's beft and largeft pieces ; that celebrated one of himfelf, his wife and child, among others > Vandyke's K. Charles I. upon a dun horfe, of great value ; and the famous loves of the gods, by Titian, a prefent from the king of Sar- dinia. The gallery is worthy admiration, lined with marble pilafters, and whole pillars of one piece, fup- pcrting a moft coftly and curious entablature, excellent for matter and workmanfhip, the window fra'mes of the fame, and a bafement of black marble quite round. Before it, is ftretchei out a moft agreeable profpect of the fine woods beyond the great vallies. What is of the moft elegant tafle in the whole houfe, is of the dutchefs's own defigning. The chapel is equal to the reft. The garden is a very large plot of ground, taken out of the park, and may ftill be faid to be a part of if, well con- trived, by finking the outer wall into a fbfs, to give a view quite round, and take oft' the odious appearance of confinement and limitation to the eye. It is within well adorned with walks, greens, efpalicrs, and viftas to divers remarkable objects, that offer themfelves in the circumjacent country. Over the pedir/.ent of this front of the houfe is a curious marble buffo of Lewis XIV. bigger than the life, taken from the gate of the citadel OXFORDSHIRE. nf Tournav. The orangery is a pretty room. Near the gate of the palace is the houi'e where our famous Chaucer was born. At the entrance into the caftle from the town, her Grace has erected a noble triumphal arch to the memory of the Duke, and has let up a vaft obelifk in the principal avenue of the park, whereon is inferibed the beft account of the duke's actions and character that ever was penned in the fame compafs, and indeed is fuppofed to be written by the greateft ge- nius of his time, the late lord vifcount B. The infeription docs fo much honour to the memory of the duke, and at the fame time to the Britifh nation, that we cannot deny ourfelves the pleafure of inferting it here as follows : The cattle of Blenheim was founded by Queen Anne, In the fourth year of her reign, In the year of the Chriftian a?ra 1705. A monument dehgned to perpetuate the memory of the Signal victory Obtained over the French and Bavarians, Near the village of Blenheim, On the banks of the Danube, By John Duke of Marlborough: The hero not only of this nation, but of this age ; Whofe glory was equal in the council and in the held ; Who by wifdom, juftice, candour, and addrefs, Reconciled various, and even oppofite interefts ; Acquired art influence Which no rank, no authority, can give^ Nor any force but that of fuperior virtue j Became the fixed important centre, Which united, in one common caufe, The principal ftates of Europe ; Who by military knowledge, and irrefiftible valour, In a long feries of uninterrupted triumphs, Broke the power of France, When raifed the higheft, when exerted the moft ; , Refcued the empire from defolation ; Aflerted and confirmed the liberties of Europe. Philip, 2 grandfon of the houfe of France, united to the interefts, directed by the policy, fupported by the arms of that crbwn, was placed on the throne of Spain. King William III. beheld this formidable union, of two great, and once rival monarchies. At the end of a life fpent in defending the liberties of Europe, he faw them in their greateft danger. He provided for their fecurity in the moft effectual man- ner. He took the duke of Marlborough into his fefvice. EmbalTador extraordinary and plenipotentiary to the States-General of the United Provinces, The Duke contracted feveral alliances before the death of king William. He confirmed and improved thefe. He contracted others, after the acceflion of queen Anne ; and re-united the confederacy, which had been diffolved at the end of a former war, in a ftridter and firmer league. Captain-general and commander in chief of The forces of Great Britain, The duke led to the field the army of the Allies. He took, with furprifing rapidity, Venlo, Ruremonde^ Stevenfwaert, and Liege. He extended and fecured the frontiers of the Dutch. The enemies, whom he found infulting at the gates of Nimeghen, were driven to feek for fhelter behind their lines. He forced Bonne, Huy, Limburgh, in another campaign. He opened the communication of the Rhine, as well as the Maes. He added ail the country between thefe rivers to his former conquefts. The army of France, favoured by the defection of the elector of Bavaria, had penetrated into the heart of the Empire. This mighty body lay expofed to immediate ruin. In that memorable crifis, the duke of Marlborough led his troops with unexampled celerity, fecrecy, order, from the Ocean to the Danube. He faw : he attacked : nor ftopped, but to conquer the enemy. He forced the Bavarians, fuftained by the French, in their ftrong intrenchments at Schellenbcrg. Hepaffed the Danube. A fecond rcyal army, compofed of the beft troops of France, was fent to reinforce the firft. That of the Confederates was divided. With one part of it the fiege of Ingolftadt was carried on. With the other the duke save battle to the united ftrcngth of France and Bavaria. On the fecond day of Auguft 1704, he gained a more glorious viclory than the hiftories of any age can boaft. The heaps of (lain were dreadful proofs of his valour. A marlhal of France, whole legions of French, his prifoners, proclaimed his mercy. Bavaria was fubdued, Ratifbon, Aufbourg, Ulm, Meminghen, all the ufurpations of the enemy were recovered. The liberty of the Diet, the peace of the Empire, were reirored. From the Danube, the duke turned his victorious arms towards the Rhine^ and the Mofalle. Landau, Treves, Traerbach, were taken. In the courfe of one campaign, the very na- ture of the war was changed. The invaders of other ftates were reduced to defend their own. The fron- tier of France was expofed in its weakeft part to the efforts of the Allies. That he might improve this advantage, that he might pufh the fum of things to a fpeedy decifion, the duke of Marlborough led his troops early in the following year once more to the Mofelle. Th-y, whom he had faved a few months before, neglected to fecond him now. They, who might have been his companions in conqueft, refufed to join him. When he faw the generous defigns he had formed, fruftrated by private intereft, by pique, byjealoufy, he returned with fpeed to the Maes. He returned, and Fortune and Viclory returned with him. Liege was relieved ; Huy retaken. The French, who had preffed the army of the States- General with fuperior numbers, retired behind in- trenchments, which they deemed impregnable. The duke forced thefe intrenchments, with inconfiderable lofs, on the feventh day of July 1705. He defeated a great part of the army which defended them. The reft efcaped by a precipitate retreat. If advantages proportionable to this fuccefs were not immediately obtained, let the failure be afcribed to that misfortune which attends moft confederacies ; a divifion of opinions, where one alone lhould judge ; a divifion of power, where one alone fhould command. The difappoiutment itfclf did honour to the duke. It be- came the wonder of mankind how he could do fo much under thofe reftraints, which had hindered him from doing more. Powers more abfolute were given him afterwards. The increafe of his powers multiplied his victories. At the opening of the next campaign, when all his army was not yet aflembled ; when it was hardly known, that he had taken the field ; the noife of his triumphs was heard over Europe. On the twelfth of May 1 706, he attacked the French at Ramillies. In the fpace of two hours, the whole army was put to flight. The vigour and conduct with which he improved this fuc- cefs, were equal to thofe wherewith he gained it. Louvain, Bruflels, Malines, Liere, Ghent, Oude- nard, Antwerp, Damme, Bruges, Courtray, fur- fendered. Oftend, Menin, Dendermond, and Aeth, were taken. Brabant and Flanders were recovered. Places which had refilled the greateft generals for months, for years ; provinces difputed for ages, were the conquefts of a fummer. Nor was the duke con- tent to triumph alone. Solicitous for the general in- tereft, his care extended to the remoteft fcenes of the war. He chofe to leflen his own army, that he might enable the leaders of other armies to conquer. To this it muft be afcribed that Turin was relieved ; the duke of Savoy reinftated ; the French driven with confuiion out of Italy. Thefe victories gave the Confederates an opportunity of carrying on the war on every fide into the dominions of France. But fhe continued to enjoy a kind of peaceful neutrality in Germany. From Italy fhe was once alarmed, and had no more to fear. The entire reduction 268 OXFORDSHIRE. reduction of his power, whofe ambition had caufcd, whofe ftrength fupported the war, feemed referved for him alone, who had fo triumphantly begun the glorious work. The barrier of France, on the fide of the Low Countries, had been forming for more than half a century. What art, power, expence, co.uld do, had been done to ren- der it impenetrable. Yet here flie was moft expofed ; for here the duke of Marlborough threatened to at- tack her. To cover what they had gained by furprize, or had been yielded to them by treachery, the French marched to the banks of the Schelde. At their head were the princes of the blood, and their moft fortunate general, the duke of Vendofme. Thus commanded, thus pofted, they hoped to check the victor in his courfe. Vain were their hopes. The duke of Marlborough paflcd the river in their fight. He defeated their whole army. The approach of night concealed, the proximity of Ghent favoured their flight. They ne~ glected nothing to repair their lofs, to defend their frontier. New generals, new armies, appeared in the Netherlands. All contributed to enhance the glory, none were able to retard the progrefs, of the confe- derate army. Lifle, the bulwark of this barrier, was beficged. A nu- merous garrifoo, and a marfhal of France, defended the place. Prince Eugene of Savoy commanded, the duke of Marlborough covered and fuftained the fiege. The rivers were feized, and the communication with Holland interrupted. The duke opened new com- munications with great labour, and much greater art. Through countries over-run by the enemy, the ne- ceflaiy convoys arrived in fafety. One alone was at- tacked. The troops which attacked it were beat. The defence of Lifle was animated by aflurances of relief. The French aflT-mbled all their force. They marched towards the town. The duke of Marlborough offered them battle, without fufpending the fiege. They abandoned the enterprize. They came to fave the town. They were fpeiStators of its fall. From this conqueft the duke haftened to others. The pofts taken by the enemy on the Schelde were fur- prized. That river was pafled the fecond time, and, notwithftanding the great preparations made to pre- vent it, without oppoiition. Eruffels, befieged by the elector of Bavaria, was relieved. Ghent furrendered to the duke in the middle of a winter remarkably fevere. An army, little inferior to his own, marched out of the place. As foon as the feafon of the year permitted him to open another campaign, the duke befieged and took Tour- nay. He inverted Mons. Near this city, the French army, covered by thick woods, defended by noble intrenchments, waited to molcft, nor prefumed to offer battle. Even this was not attempted by them with impunitv. On the laft day of Auguft, 1709, the duke attacked them in their camp. All was em- ployed ; nothing availed againft the refolution of fuch a general, againft the fury of fuch troops. The battle was bloody. The event decifive. The woods were pierced. The fortifications trampled down. The enemy fled. The town was taken. Doway, Bethune, Aire, St. Venant 9 Bouchain, underwent the fame fate in two fucceeding years. Their vigo- rous rehftance could not fave them. The army of France durft not attempt to relieve them. It feemed preferved .to defend the capital of the monarchy. The profpecTt of this extreme diftrefs was neither diftant nor dubious. The French acknowledged their con- queror, and lued for peace. Thefe are the actions of the late Duke of Marlborough, performed in the compafs of a few years. Sufficient to adorn the annals of ages. The admiration of other nations Will be conveyed to lateft pofterity, In the hiftories even of the enemies of Britain 1 . The fenfe which the Britifh nation had Of his tranfeendent merit, Was exprefied In the moft folemn, rhoft effectual, moft durable manner. The acts of parliament * inferibed on this pillar Shall ftand As long as the Britifh name and language laft, Illuftrious monuments Of Marlborough's glory, And Of Britain's gratitude. In this park there was, about a century ago, a cele- brated echo, which, in a ftill night, would repeat very diftinctly eighteen or twenty fyllables 5 but it has been much impaired by removing fome buildings. This feat is faid to have been a royal palace in the days of king Ethelred. Here Alfred the Great tranflated Boetiusde Confolatione Philofophia; and here K. Henry II. built a labyrinth, called Rofamond's Bower, with a houfe in the centre of it, to fecrete his miftrefs, Rofa- mond, daughter to lord Clifford, from Eleanor, his queen ; but there, are now no traces either of the palace or bower. The town of Woodftock is a corporation, governed by a mayor, four aldermen, and fixteen common-coun- cilmen. It is well paved, has three alms-houfes, and a fchool, founded in the twenty-feventh year of the reign of queen Elizabeth, by Richard Cromwell, citizen and fkinner of London. Woodftock is famous for a manufacture of polifned fteel, and gloves, but does not employ above twenty or thirty men in the former, and forty or fifty in the latter. Journeymen in the fteel-work earn from fifteen (hillings to two guineas a week; and men and women, by making gloves, about eight or nine (hillings a wetk. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Tuefday, and five annual fairs, viz. the twenty-fifth of March, and Tuefday in Whitfun- wcek, for all forts of cattle ; the fecond of October, and Tuefday after the firft of November, for cheefe,. and all forts of cattle ; and the feventeenth of December, for cheefe and hogs. The feat of lord Litchfield, at Ditchley, is fituated about thediftance of three miles from Blenheim, on the norfh-weft. It is built of hewn ftone, and has a beauti- ful fouthern front, with two correfpondent wings, com- manding a moft agreeable and extenfive profpecl, in which the magnificent palace juft defcribed has the principal effect. In the centre of the front is, The H A L L. - This room is finely proportioned, and elegantly deco- rated. Its fides and roof are ornamented with ftucco, which is at once bold and delicate. Its door-cafes, pe- diments, entablatures, and columns of the Corinthian and Compofite orders, are all richly ornamented with gildings, &c. The ceiling contains an aflembly of the gods, painted by Kent. Two of the compartments are filled with hiftorical pieces from the /Eneid, by the fame hand ; one of which reprefents /Eneas meeting Venus, his mother, in the wood, near Carthage^ and the other, Venus prcfenting /Eneas with the new armour. The Sciences are introduced as ornaments, with bufts of philofophers, poets, hiftorians, and orators, viz. So- cratiS, Virgil, Homer, Cicero, Sappho, Shakefpeare, Dryden, Milton, and Livy. Over the ftatues are has reliefs, copied from antiques out of the Florentine Mu- fcum, properly difpofed ; and a ftatue of the Venus de. Medicis. And there is here a curious model of the Rad- clivian Library at Oxford. The chimney-piece is fuperb and lofty, decorated with a portrait of the late lord, by Akerman. * Several recitals of claufes in acts of parliament, made to do honour to this immortal commander, are engraven on the fame fuperb pillar. MUSIC OXFORDSHIRE. MUSIC ROOM. The conftruction of this apartment is well adapted to the ufe afligned ; and its peculiar elegance cannot fail of having the moft pleafing effect on the fpectator at his firft entrance. The Paintings are, A portrait of the earl of Litchfield's grandfather, and grandmother. The prefent earl of Litchfield. The two late dukes of Beaufort. Rubens and family, hunting. Two Venetian courtezans. A landfcape, by Wootton ; in which are introduced his lordfhip,'and the Hon. Mr. Lee, taking the diver- lion of (hooting. With three hunting-pieces, by Wootton. DINING ROOM. On the whole, this room is furnifhed with much fimple elegance. Here is a capital full-length portrait of HenrvVlII. by Hans Holbeins ; executed with a fh-eno-th ' and freedom not generally found in the per- formances of that high finifher. A family-piece of Charles I. with Charles II. a child, at his knee ; by Vandyke. Sir Henry Lee, with the maftiff which faved his life, by Johnfon. — The ftory of this piece is founded on a miraculous efcape of Sir Harry, from being affaffinated by one of his own fervants, who had formed a defign of robbing the houfe, after having murdered his mailer. But providentially on the night this project was intended to be put in execution, the maftiff, though no favourite with, nor ever before taken notice of by his mafter, ac- companied him up flairs, crept under the bed, and could not be driven away by the fervant ; when, at length, Sir Harry ordered him to be left: and in the dead of night, the fame fervant entering the room to execute his defign, was inftantly feized by the dog, and upon being fecured, confeffed his intentions. In one corner of the piece are' the following lines : « More faithful than favoured. tt Reafon in man cannot effect fuch love, «' As Nature doth in them that reafon want : " Ulyffes true and kind his dog did prove, *' When faith in better friends was very fcant. " My travels for my friends have been as true, " Tho' not as far as Fortune did hrm bear ; « No friends my love and faith divided knew, *« Tho' neither this nor that once equall'd were. " But in my Dog, whereof 1 made no ftore, " I find more love than them I trufted more." The late lord, and prefent dowager lady, in their co- ronation robes ; by Richardfon and Vanderbank. The duke of Monmonth and his mother, in the Italian manner. Prince Arthur, by Johnfon. Sir Charles Rich, killed in the unfortunate expedition to the Ifle of Rhee, 1627. Sir Chriftopher Flatten. With four portraits of Sir Henry Lee's brothers, by C. Johnfon, in that matter's beft manner. The DAMASK BED-CHAMBER. It is adorned with tapeftry, reprefenting boys fqueez- ing grapes, and engaged in other fports ; which mull: pleafe all who can difcern and tafte juftnefs of defign, and livelineis of expreffion. The furniture of the bed, &c. is rich crirnfon damafk. The Paintings in this room are, The queen of Bohemia, by Johnfon. And the portraits of lord and lady Teynham. TAPESTRY DRAWING ROOM. It is furnifhed with tapeftrv not lefs mafterly than that laft defcribed. The fubje&s'are, the Mufes and Apollo finging and playing on their feveral instruments : Baccha- nalian fcer.es, and a vintage. 2.8 The paintings are, Anne, countefs of Rochefter and Lindefay ; by Sir Peter Lely. Sir Francis Harry Lee ; by Vandyke. And Sir Harry Lee, at full length, in the robes of a knight of the garter ; by Johnfon. The chimney-piece, in black and white marble, is in the Ionic order, and an excellent piece of workmanfhip. The windows of this apartment open to a moft agree- able landfcape, which does not perplex the eye by the diftance and multiplicity of its objects, but affords thofe gentler charms which arife from a fingle, diftindt, and confined profpect. It principally confifts of a winding valley, with a ferpentine canal, covered with an elegant Chinefe bridge. The whole is bounded by an eafy fpreading declivity, interfperfed with groups of trees. The SALOON. The roof is ftuccoed in a rich, though chafte ftile. The middle compartment is Flora, with the Zephyrs. The walls are alfo ftuccoed;, and painted of an olive- colour, on which are Minerva and Diana, whole-length bas reliefs, in the antique ftile. Here is an excellent antique of the goddefs Health, about forty inches in height, lately purchafed from Dr. Mead's collection. — On its pedefral is a bas relief of the head of ^fculapius, cut with a remarkable boldnefs. Here is alfo fhewn an antique medallion of the Sailing Cupid. The diameter is about twelve inches. Green Damafk DRAWING-ROOM. The chimney-piece is finely executed by Skeemaker. The frieze is enriched with a vafe and cornucopia ; and on each fide female Termini, finifhed in the moftfuperb tafte. In the' middle is a landfcape by Wootton, whofe free manner all judges of this moft enchanting fpecies of painting, muft allow to be truly calculated for affording the livelieft reprefentations of rural objects. Over the doors are two ftriking pieces brought from Italy of ruins, rocks, and cafcades. The architecture in the manner of Panini. Here is alfo a table of Italian marble, having a greenifh ground interfperfed with white veins, which is a moft beautiful and valuable curiofity. GILT DRAWING ROOM. This was formerly called the Beft Dining Room. The Paintings are, A full-length portrait of Charles II. and of the dutchefs of Cleveland; by Lely. The prefent duke of Grafton's great grandfather. And lady Charlotte Fitzroy, his lordlhip's grandmo- ther, by Kneller. The decorations of the wainfcot are gilt ; and the ftuccoed ceiling is correfpondent to the tafte and fplendor of the reft. Here are two tables of Egyptian marble, which juftly demand our obfervation. The chimney-piece of this apartment is alfo executed by Skeemaker. In the freeze, a Bacchanalian's head finely executed ; and over it a landfcape by Wootton. The VELVET BEDCHAMBER. Both the bed and hangings of this apartment are of rich figured Genoa velvet, made on purpofe at Genoa, for admiral Lee. The chimney- piece is executed in a moft mafterly manner : on the freeze are feftoons of flowers ; and in the middle a winged head of Mercury ; and it is adorned with a profpect of a ruin by an Italian hand. And here is a drefling -table of curious wcrlcmanfh.'p, done in France. It confifts of a dark-coloured wood, inlaid with fine ramifications of brafs-work. The TAPESTRY ROOM. This apartment, which is the laft we are fhewn, is curioufly ornamented in the Chinefe tafte. Here are two ftriking pieces of tapeftry ; one of which reprefents the Cyclops forming the armour of .rEneas ; I the other, Neptune, with his proper attendants, divine- Z z z directions OXFORD S II I R E. directions about refitting a vefil-1, which has juft been fhipwrecked. — The heads of the dolphins are executed with much fpirif and expreifion. The fea-fcape is re niarkably beautiful, snd the diliant profpect moft ele- gantly fancied, as well as judicioully conducted, in point of perfpectivej Over the chimney-piece, which is finely finifhed in white marble, is a capital picture of the duke and dutchefs of York, and the princeflcs Mary and Anne; by Sir Peter Lely. Over the two doors are two mafterly landfcapes, by an Italian band. The chairs are covered with tapeftry, each of which isl prettily ornamealed with the Itory of a fable from JElop. A fmall firc-fcrcen in this apartment, beautifully worked with a needle, by the late lady Litchfield, can- not efcape the attention of the curious : the lubject of which is the rape of Proferpine. In conformity to the ftile of this apartment, here are two beautiful Chincfe figures ; one a Chinefc lady, the other a porter with a cheft of tea. On the whole, this feat is a noble repofitory of valu- able and mafterly portraits, executed by the moft: emi- nent artifts in that fpecies of painting; Rubens, Van- dyke, Sir Peter Lely, and our ingenious countryman and rival of Vandyke, Johnfon. As a piece of archi- tecture, it is inferior to none for the juflnefs of its pro- portion, and the convenient difpofnion of its apartments. With regard to furniture and decorations, it is nnifhed with tafte rather than with fplendor ; and adorned with that elegance which remits from fimplicity. About five miles to the wefhvard of Woodftock, lies Witney, or Whitney, a long ftraggiing place, fituatcd on the river Windrufh, fixty-eight miles from London. It was a place of great repute before the Conqucft, and in the reign of Edward II. was made a borough, and fent members to parliament, but loll that privilege in the reign of Edward III. Witney is very famous for its woollen manufacture, which confiUs of what they call kerfey-pieces, coarfe bear-fkins, and blankets. The two firft they make for the North American market, vaft quantities being fent up the river St. Laurence, and alfo to New-York, Boflon, cVc. Their fineft blankets, which rife in price to three pounds a pair, are exported to Spain and Por- tugal ; but all of them are firft fent to London in broad- wheel waggons, «four or five of which go every week. The fineft wools they work, come from Herefordfhire and Worcefterfhire, and fell from eight-pence to ten- pence a pound. The coarfeft is brought from Lincoln- fhire ; they call it Day-locks, and purchafe it for about four-pence halfpenny a pound : it is tiled in making the coarfe bear-fkir.s. There are about five hundred weavers in this town, who work up (even thousand packs of wool annually. Journeymen in general earn, on an average, from ten to twelve {hillings a week, all the year round ; but they work from four in the morning till eight at night. The work is of that nature, that a boy of four- teen years of age earns as much as a man. Boys and girls of feven or eight years of age earn from eighteen to twenty-pence a week by quilling and cornering. Old women of fixty or feventy earn fixpence a day by picking and forting the wool. A ftrong woman can earn from ten-pence to a milling a day by fpinning ; and a girl of fourteen, four-pence or five-pence. Ther weave according to the feafon ; in winter, kerfeys and bear-fkins, ready for fijipping in the fummer for the river St. Laurence ; and in lummer, blankets for home confumption, and to fupply the markets of Spain and Portugal. TFlE blankets ufually purchafed at home are about three-and-twenty and four-and-twenty /billings a pair, ten quarters wide, and twelve long. There is a free-fchool at Witnev, founded and en- dowed by Mr. Henry Box, a druggift in London ; and adjoining to it, a fine library. This was one of the ma- nors which the bifhop of Wincheftcr gave to St. Swi- thin's in that cilty, on queen Emma's happily efcaping the fire orde;.l, by palling, bare-foot and unhurt, over nine red-hot plough-fharcs, and by that means proving herfelf innocent of the adultery of which (he was fu- fpected with the prelate. The manor, however, did not long continue the property of St. Swithin's church ; for in i 171, the bifhop of that diocefe gav: it to the hofpital of St. Crofs, which he at that time founded. Here is a weekly market on Thurlday, and three an- nual fairs, viz. Thurfday in Eafter-week, and the twenty-ninth of June, for all forts of cattle; and the twenty-third of November, for cattle and cheefe. Bampton is fituated on the borders of Berkfhire, fixty- fix miles from London. It was a town of confrdefable note before the Conqueft, and lies on a river, which, a few miles below the town, falls into the Thames, and is navigable by boats. Here is a weekly market on Wed- nefday, noted for the great quantity of fell-mongers wares, as leather jackets, gloves, breeches, &c. which are brought hither chiefly from Witney. Befides which, here is an annual fair on the twenty-fixth of Auguft, for horfes and toys. Burford is fituated on the river Windrufh, fix miles from Witney, and feventy-four from London. In the Saxon times, a council of the bifhops, abbots, &c. of the kingdom, was convened here by the kings Ethelrcd and Berthwald, and the then bifhop of Sherborn was ordered to write a treatife againif the error of the Britifli churches in the celebration of Eafter. Henry II. granted this town a charter, with all the privileges enjoyed by the citizens of Oxford. It has now indeed loft the greater part of thefe privileges ; but it ftill retains the appearance of a corporation, having a common feal, 7.;:d. being governed by two bailiffs, and other inferior offi- cers. An ancient cuftoin prevails here, of carrying art artificial dragon through the ftreets on Midfummer-eve. This cuftom is fuppofed to allude to a certain banner, having on it the figure of a dragon embroidered in gold, and which was taken by Cuthred, a Weft Saxon, from Ethelbald the Mercian, in a battle fought near this place. Here is a weekly market on Saturday and two annual fairs, viz. the fifth of July, for horfes, fheep, cows, and pedlars ware ; and the twenty-fifth of September, for cheefe and toys. Chipping Norton is fituated near the north-weft bor- der of the county, feventy fix miles from London. It fent. members to parliament in the reigns of Edward I. and Edward III. but not fince. It is a corporation go- verned by two bailiffs and inferior officers, who are im- powcred to hold a court, and to determine actions under four pounds value. Speed tells us, that there was for- merly a monaftery here, but there are now no veftiges of it. Roman coins are frequently dug up here; and near the church there are fome remains of a caftle. The church is a capacious ftructure, in which are a great number cf monuments, erected to merchants, which fliew it was once a town of confidcrable trade, though it has very little at prefent. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and feven annual fairs, viz. the feventh of March, the fixth of May, the laft Friday in May, the eighteenth of July, the fourth of September, the eighth of November, and the laft Friday in November, for horfes, cows, fheep, lambs, leather, and cheefe. About a mile to the northward of Chipping-Norton, is a remarkable piece of antiquity, called P.oll-rich-ftones. It confiftsof a number of huge ftones placed in a circle, like thofe at Stonehenge. Some have thought that thefe ftones were placed here as a monument of fome remark- able victory; fome think it was a burying-place, and others, a place for the coronation of the Danifh kings ; and that thefe ftones were erected on Rollo's being pro- claimed king here by his foldiers. Mr. Toland affirms, that they are the veftigta cf an old Britifh temple. About four miles weft-north-weft of Chipping-Norton are the four fhire ftones, being the boundaries of the counties of Oxford, Gloucefter, Worceftcr, and War- wick. Bjnbury is a pretty large town, fituated on the river Charwell, 'near the bo»ders of Northampton/hire, leventy-five miles from London. In the year 1125, a caftle O X F O R D S U I R K. e:«ft i£ was bulk here by tbfi bifhop of Lincoln, then lotd of the manor, and afterwards given by Henry V II. to Ta'per earl of Pembroke, afterwards duke of Bedford. This town was made a borough in the fin!" year of queen Maty, confifting of a bailiff, twelve aldermen, and twelve btirgefles. It was incorporated in the reign of James I. and governed ■ by a mayor, twelve aldermen, and twelve capital burgefies. In 1718* it received a new charter from king George I. and is now governed bv a mayor, high fteward, recorder, fix capital bur- gcf'es, and thirty aJiftants. It has a fine large church, u free-fchpol, and two charity-fchools, one for thirty boys, the other for thirty girls. The trade of Banbury is confiderable, efnecially in cheefe, all the adjacent country being a rich feeding meadow-ground. This town fends one member to parliament, has a weekly market on Thurfday, and feven annual fairs., viz. Thurfday after the feventeenth of January, Hrft Thurfday in Lent, Afcenfion dav, Corpus Chrifti, and the thirteenth of June, for horfes, cows, and fheep ; Thurfday after the tenth of October, for hogs, cheefe, and hiring fervants ; and ,the twenty-ninth of October, for cheefe, hops, and cattle. A little to the weft of this town, on the borders of the county, and at the extremity of a valley called Red- horfe Vale, is Edge-hill, from whence there is a moil extenfive profpect. On the fummit is a ftrong and ca- pacious intrenchment, faid to be DanilTi. On the north iide of this hill a famous battle was fought between the forces of king Charles I. and thofe of tke parliament, when neither gained any confiderable advantage. Deddington is fituated about two miles to the weft of the Charwell, and fixty-one from London. It-was-for-" mei ly a town corporate, and fent members to parliament in the reigns of Edward I. and III. but never fince. It Is, however, ftill a pretty large town, and governed by a bailiff. Dr. Plot fays, there was here an ancient caftlc, but there are now few marks of it remaining. It has a charity-fchool for fixteen boys, and as many girls. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. the tenth of Auguft, for horfes and cows ; ahd the twenty-fecond of November, for horfes, cows, and hogs. Bicefter, or Bilfcter, is fituated on a fmall brook, which, about fix miles below, falls into the Charwell at Iilip, fixty miles from London. It is a long ftraggling place, famous for malt liquor, and had once a mona- ftery ; but it is more remarkable in antiquity for having had a famous Caftrum on the weft fide of it, called Ald- ehefter, \onv fince paifed over by the plough, which has turned up many Roman coins, and other remains of antiquity ; and it is not doubted but it was the Maima of Revennas. Here is a weekly market on Friday, and four annual fairs, viz. Friday in Eafter week, firft Friday in June, the fifth of Auguft, and the thirteenth of December, for horfes, cows, theep, pigs, v/rol, and toys. Iflip is a fmall town fituated at the conflux of a fmall brook with the Charwell, fifty-nine miles from London. It is but a fmall place, but noted for the birth and bap- tifm of Edward the Confeffor. The font in which that prince was baptized, had for a long time been put to very indecent ufes, till it was at laft taken into the pof- leffion of a neighbouring gentleman. Here are ftill fome remains of an ancient palace, faid to he that of king Ethelred ; and a good weekly market for fheep, but no annual fair. Tame is an old town fituated on a river of the fame jiamc, on the borders of Buckingbamfhire, forty-five miles from London. Its fituation is rendered the more pleafant, by being watered by the above river on the riorth fide, and by two fmall brooks which flow through the eaft and weft parts of it. The town is faid to have been a borough in the time of the Saxons, when the Danes erected a fortification here, which was befieged and taken by king Edward the elder, with the flaughter of the Danifhking, and all the garrifon. But when the Danes over-run the kingdom in IOIO, the town of Tame felt their barbarous revenge ; nor did it recover itfelf till the reign of Henry III. when Lavington, bifhop of Lincoln, brought through the town the great road, which before lay at fome diftance below it. It is a very confiderable town, confifting principally of one large ftreet, in the middle of which is the^ market- place. The church is a large and elegant ftructure in the form of a crofs. Here was a monaftery of Cifter- tian friars in the reign of king Stephen.; and the ruins of it are ftill to be feen near the church : and in the reign of queen Elizabeth, Sir John Williams of Bur- feld, in Berkfhire, fteward to the bifhop of Lincoln's lands here, founded a noble free-fchool, and an alms- houfe in this town. Seme years fince, a pot of Roman coins was found here. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, well furnifhed with live cattle, provifions, and other neccfiaries ; and two annual fairs, viz. Eafter Tuefday, for all forts of cattle ; and the tenth of October, or Old Michaelmas- day, for the fale of horfes and fat hogs, and for hiring fervants. Watlington is a fmall market-town, confifting of about two hundred and fixty houfes, including four hamlets belonging to the place. It is fituated near the fource of a fmall rivulet, forty-three miles from Lon- don. In its neighbourhood is the feat of the Stonor family, one of whom built the market-houfe, and founded a grammar-fchool here in the year 1666. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-fifth of March, for toys, and the tenth of October, for hogs and black cattle. Dorchcfter is a place of great antiquity, and was for- merly a place of confiderable confequence. It funds on the river Tame, over which it has a lar^e ftone bridge, near its confluence with the Thames or Ifis, forty-nine miles from London. It feems to have flourifhed under the Romans, by their coins and medals being fre- quently found here. It enjoyed the honour of being an epifcopal fee for near five hundred years, till the reign of William the Conqueror, when its bifhop, Remigius, removed the fee to Lincoln. William of Malmfbury fays, it had once five ftately churches, though it is now dwindled to a fmall village. The removal of the fee, and the frequent inundations from the river, to which the lower part of it is fubjeeT:, in- jured the town fo greatly, that there was hardly any veftige left of its former grandeur. An abbey of regular canons was founded here by Alexander, bifhop of Lincoln, part of which was purchafed at the dillb- lution by a gentleman of the town, and given to aug- ment the parifh-church, which is a large and venerable ftructure. There is a vulgar tradition, that no fnake will live in this parifh ; and the inhabitants fay they never faw any venomous creature in its diftrict. Some ancient Britifh coins have alfo been found here, parti- cularly one of Cunabuline. Here is no weekly market, and only one annual fair, held on Eafter Tuefday, for toys. Henley upon Thames is fituated on that river, over which it has a fine bridge, thirty-five miles from London. It is a very ancient town; Dr. Plot fays, the oldeft in the county, and in a very flourifhing con- dition. It ftands very pleafantly on the northern bank of the Thames, and enjoys a very confiderable trade. The buildings are near, and the town is furnifhed with feveral.good inns. It is incorporated, and governed by a warden, burgeifes, and other inferior officers. Its chief trade is in malt, of which, and other corn, near three hundred waggon loads are often fold on a market-day ; the inhabitants being generally maitfters, mealmen, and bargemen, fending their goods to Lon- don by barges, navigated on the Thames. The bridge, which is now of timber, is faid to have been anciently of ftone. Here is a good free grammar-fchool, and alfo a charity-fchool, liberally endowed, for teaching, cloathing, and apprenticing poor children. Here is alfo an alms-houfe, but very meanly endowed ; for though there are not above fix or feven perfons in it, they have only fix-pence a week each for their al- lowance. Here is a noble weekly market on Thurfday, and four annual fairs, viz. the feventh of March, for horfes 5 272 O X F O R D ! horfes ; Holy Thurfday, for fhecp ; Thurfday after Trinity Sunday, for horfes and b*ack cattie ; and Thurfday fe'nnight before the tenth of October, for cheefe, and other goods. Curious Plants found in Oxfordfhire. Female, or bell-flowered Pimpernel, Anagallis fcemina fore ccerulco, Park, found at Battle, near Oxford. Painted or gilded Reed, Arundo vallatoria joins cx luteo varicgatis, found in the river Thames, not far from Oxford. It is only an accidental variety, but deicrves to be mentioned on account of its fcarcity. The greateft doves-foot Cranes-bill, with diffecled leaves, Geranium Columbinum maximum foliis dijjeclis, Plot, found in the hedges about Marfton, and in thofe near Batley caufeway, in great plenty. Dogs-grais with awns, Gramcn canhmm ariflatum, radice non repente fylvaticum, Morif. found plentifully in the woods near Stoken-church. Wild Rye-grafs of the woods, Gramcn fccalinum majus fylvaticum, Ger. found in the fame woods with the former. Cyperus-grafs, with a round crow-foot head, Gramen cypcroides minimum ranunculi capitulo rotunda, C. B. found frequently in the bogs and watery parts on the weft fide of this county. White-flowered baftard Hellebore, Ellcborim minor jlore albo, Park, found in the woods near Stoken- church, on the borders of the road leading from Ox- ford to London. Naked Barley, Hordeum nudum, Ger. It is fown in the fields near Iflip, and other parts of Oxfordfhire, and is really a fpecies of wheat, but has its name from its ear refembling the Hordeum dyjlichum. Birds-nefs fmelling like primrofe roots, Orcbanche verbafculi odore, Plot ; found at the bottoms of trees, in the woods near Stoken-church. Annual Pearl-wort, Saxifraga Anglicist annua alfmes folio, Plot ; found in the walls of Baliol College garden, and plentifully in the fallow fields about Hedington and Cowley. Bafe Hore-hound, Stachys Fuchfii, J. B. found near Witney-park, and in that neighbourhood, in great plenty. Red Lime, Tilt a foliis molliter hirfulis viminibus rubris, fruclu tetragono, Bobcrt ; found in Stoken-church woods. Creeping Tormentil, with deeply indented leaves ; Tormentilla alata foliis profundius fcrratis, Morif. found SHIR £. in the borders of corn-fields, between Hocklep andShat- over woods. Violet, with throatwort leaves ; Viola martia birfuta major inodora, Morif. found in Magdalen College cops, on Shatover hills, in Stow wood, and many other places. Round-leaved Marfh-violet, Viola paluftris rotundi- fol/a, Plot ; found in the bogs about Stow-wood, and on the banks of the Charwell, between Oxford and Water -ey ton. The greater Periwinkle, Clematis daphnoides major, C. B. found on the borders of the highways, between Wolver- ton and Yarnton, and in feveral hedges thereabouts. White-berried Elder, Sambuccus fruclu albo, Ger. found in the hedges near Watlinoton. British Coins, and other Antiquities, found in Oxfordfhire. Befides the feveral pieces of antiquity already men- tioned in defcribing the different places in this county, feveral others have been found. Particularly about Wood-Eaton, on the river Charwell, four miles north of Oxford, Britifh coins of a particular kind nave been found, not difcovered any where elfe in England. They were, the coin of Cunobeline, who reigned here about the time of our Saviour's birth. On one fide is a horfe, with an ear of corn over him, and Cuno under him ; and on the reverfe is another fuch ear with Camu, for Camuladunum, or Maiden, in Effex, where the coins were ftruck. On a common in the hundred of Ewelm, near the R.oman Iknild-ftreet, a large urn was found in the year 1720, full of coins, fome as old as the time of Julius Casfar's landing in this ifland. At Shinsfield, two miles from Woodftock, a large teffelated Roman pavement was difcovered in 17 13, confiding of fmall fquare ftones, and bricks, of fix dif- ferent colours, ftrongly cemented : and near Great Tew, another has been found, confifting of red, white, blue, and yellow pieces, fo difpofed, as to form various beau- tiful figures. Me mbers of Parliament for this County, The county of Oxford fends nine members jo par- liament, two knights of the fhire for the county, two citizens for Oxford, two members for the univerfity, two for Woodftock, and one for Banbury. BUCKING- f m 1 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE; T^Uckinghamfhire is bounded by the Thames, which \% divides it from Berkfhire on the fouth ; by Ox- fordfhire on the weft ; by Northamptonfhire on the north ; and by the counties of Bedford, Hertford, and Middiefex, on the eaft. It is about thirty-nine miles in length, from north to fouth ; eighteen in breadth, from eaft to weft ; arid .one hundred and thirty-eight miles in circumference, containing an area of five hun- dred and forty-eight fquare miles, or four hundred and forty-one thou fa nd acres. It is divided into eight hun- dreds, in which are fourteen market-towns, one hun- dred and eighty-five parifhes, fifteen parks, about eigh- teen thoufand three hundred and ninety houfes, and one hundred and eleven thoufand, three hundred and ninety-four inhabitants. It lies in the diocefe of Lin- toln, and province of Canterbury. RIVERS. The rivers of this county, except the Thames, which Bounds it on the fouth, are inconfiderable. The eaftern parts are watered by the Coin, and the north by the Oufe, or Ifa ; befides which, feveral namelefs rills glide through the other parts of the county. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Bucking- hamfhire. The principal, and indeed the only navigation in this bounty, is the Thames, which we have already defcribed in our account of Berkfhire ; and that of the Oufe will be mentioned in our account of Bedfordfhire. None of the other rivers are capable of being made navigable, except the Coin, which wafhes the eaftern borders of this county. AIR and SOIL. The fouth-eaft part of this county lies high, and con- fifts of a ridge of hills called the Chiltern, probably from Cylt, or Chilt, a Saxon name for chalk. The northern part is diftinguifned by the name of the Vale. The air on the Chiltern hills is extremely healthful ; and even in the vale, it is better than in the low grounds of other counties. The foil of the Chiltern is ftony, though it produces good crops of wheat and barley : in many places it is covered with thick woods, among which there are flill great quantities of beech. In the vale, which is extremely fertile, the foil is marie or chalk ; fome parts of it are converted into tillage, but much more is ufed for grazing. The gentlemen who have eftates in this county, find grazing fo lucrative,, that they generally keep their eftates in their own hands ; and the lands that are let, fetch more rent than znv other in the kingdom. One fingle meadow, called Beryfield, in the manor of Quarendon, not far from Aylefbury, was let many years ago for eight hundred pounds a year, and has fince let for much more. Remarks on the Husbandry of Buckinghamfhire. About High Wiccomb, the farms are in general ]aro;e, and moft of the farmers keep more teams than one. Five hoi les are always ufed to a plough, fometimes fix, with two men, one to hold, and the other to drive; 2nd an 3cre of ground they reckon a good day's work : if of fallowing, half, or three quarters of an acre. This conduct is amazing : it is common in Suffolk to fee an acre of ground, of exceeding ftrong foil, ploughed up in a day, by one man and a pair of horfes. The courle of hufbandry in this neighborhood is very well adapted to the foil ; j. turnips; 2. bariey; 3. clover; 4. wheat-; often barley after wheat ; another proof that the foil does not require more than a pair of horfes to a plough ; for turnips are never fown but in foils that are fomewhat light. One remark, however, is neceffary ; the fields are very hilly. The prices of labour are : for reaping wheat, the price is from five to feven {hil- lings per acre; barley, one fhilling and two-pence. A day-labourer in winter has one fhilling a day ; in June and July, one fhilling and two-pence ; in harveft, one fhilling and fix-pence, with board, and beer at all feafons. Threfhing is all done by the day, a day's work being reckoned four bufhels of wheat, fix of barley, and eight of oats. The rents of lands in thefe hilly parts of the county are from feven fhillings to ten fhillings and fix- pence an acre. Their middling crops are about three quar- ters of wheat ; as much of barley, and about four of oats. From Wiccomb, up to Stoken-church in Ox- fordfhire, the foil is all chalk, but the crops of corn in general clean and good. Trade and Manufactures. The principal manufactures are bone-lace and paper, and the trade, in general, confifts of coi n, cattle, and malt. Borough, and Market Towns, We entered this county from Bicefter, in Oxford- fhire ; and firft vifited the beautiful feat of lord Temple at Stow, two miles from Buckingham. We afcend, by a noble flight of fteps, defigned by Signor Borra, ornamented with ftone baluftrades, to the Saloon, which is a grand ' apartment hung with fine tapeftry, reprefenting the functions of the cavalry. The dimenfions of this room are forty-three feet by twenty- two ; the furniture, crimfon : and it is ornamented with two marble bufts, a rich French cabinet, and fine china jars. The pictures are, 1. A landfcape. 2. A flower-piece. 3. A fruit-piece. The Hall is a fpacious room, thirty-fix feet by twen- ty-two and a half, defigned and painted by Kent. Its ceiling is enriched with the figns of the Zodiac, and the walls are adorned with feftoons of flowers, &c. Over the chimney is a curious piece of alto relievo, the ftory of which is Darius's Tent. Here are alfo eleven marble bufts properly difpofed, and a ftatue of Narciffus. The Dining-room is a well-proportioned apartment, thirty feet by twenty-one, in which are the following paintings, viz. Two large landfcapes, by Horizonti. Two fmall ditto, by Loton. A dancing at the duke of Mantua's marriage, by Tintoretto. A landfcape, by Claude Lorain. A fmall ditto of Acis and Galatea, by Mille. A large picture of young Bacchanals. A fea-port, by a Flemifh mafter. A landfcape with figures and cattle, byBaffan. A ditto, with a mill. Vulcan and Venus. The marriage at Cana, by Baffin. Mofes burying the Egyptian, by Pouffin. Near this are a Bed-chamber, with two Drefling- rooms, of which the hangings, bed, and furniture, are rich crimfon cafoy ; and over the chimney is a full- length portrait of the late countefs of Dorfet. In the firft dreffing-room, a piece of ftill life over the chimney. A a a a In 274 E U C K I K T G H A M S H I R E. In the fecond, a fine cabinet ; and over the chimney, Prince Henry at full length. The Grand f'tair-cafe is ornamented with iron-work, and enriched with three ceiiing-pieces, painted by Sclater, viz. 1. Juftice and Peace. 2. Fame and Victory. g. Plenty and Conftancy, The walls are alfo adorned with military pieces. The Chapel is wainfeotted with cedar, and has a gallery of the fame, hung with crimfon velvet, under which are feats for the fervants. Its dimenfions are thirty-feven feet by twenty feet ten inches, and twenty- fix feet high. Over the communion-table is a fine painting of the Rcfurrection, by Tintoretto ; and over that are the king's arms, richly carved and ornamented. • Above the cedar wainfcot are the following paintings at full length, viz. 1. A'lofes and Aaron. 2. St. Peter and St. Paul. 3. The Four Evangelifts. 4. The Afcenfion. 5. Bpptifm. 6. The Salutation of the Virgin Mary. The ceiling is the fame as at the Chapel Royal at St. James'sj and the cedar wainfcot enriched with ele- gant carving, byGuibbons. In her Ladyfhip's Drefling-room, the hangings, chairs, and window-curtains, of fine printed cotton. A fine old Japan cabinet, ornamented with china jars. A fine view of Pckin, over the chimney-piece, by ioiii. In her Bed-chamber, the hangings, chairs, and win- dow-curtains, the fame as the Drefling-room ; and there is a picture of a Chinefe temple over the chimney, by Iolli. In the Chinefe Clofet, we meet with the repofitory of her ladyfhip's valuable china. The japan and orna- ments were a prefent of the late prince and princefs of Wales. From this clofet we enter a colonade, ornamented with paintings, by Sclater. It is likewife curioufly em- bellifhed with exotics and flowering flirubj. The Grenville Room is twenty-nine feet eight inches by twenty-fix feet three inches, and nineteen feet four inches high. It is hung with green velvet, and orna- mented with the following portraits, all at full length, except the firft. 1 . The late countefs Temple, mother to the prefent earl. 2. The prefent countefs Temple. 3. The prefent earl Temple. 4. The Right Honourable George Grenville. 5. The Honourable James Grenville. 6. The Honourable Henry Grenville, formerly go- vernor of Barbadoes. 7. The Honourable Thomas Grenville, who was killed in the defence of his country, on board the De- fiance, of which fhip he was captain. 8. The Right Honourable Lady Hefter Pitt. The Gallery is a magnificent apartment, feventy-four feet bv twenty-five feet, and twenty feet high, furniflied with Gobelin tapeflry chairs, and hung with three fine pieces of tapeflry, as follows : 1. A beautiful reprefentation of a farm. 2. A Dutch wake, from Teniers. 3. A Dutch fifhery, from ditto. In this gallery are two chimnies, with a picture of Roman ruins o/er each, by Panini. And four doors with rural pictures over each, viz. j. Plowing. - 2. Reaping. 3. Hay-making. . 4. Sheep-fbcaring. Likewife a rich cabinet at each end, containing books ; and ten maible bulls of Roman emperors. Near this is a Drefling-room, hung with yellow filk damafk, trimmed withfilver; with the following paintings; Joan of Arc, over the chimney. A portrait of Sir Thomas Temple. Ditto of Lady Hefter Temple. And a Bed-chamber, hung and ornamented as above, with a bed and chairs of the fame. . The paintings are/ The reprefentation of the Holy Lamb. A flower-piece. Two landscapes, one over each door. Another Drefling-room is hung with green damafk, trimmed with gold, in which are the following paintings : A picture over the chimney, by Rembrancft. Two faints, St. Laurence and St. Stephen, one over each door. On one fide, Orodes ordering melted gold to be poured into the mouth of Craflus. On the other, two pieces of ruins, and a landfcape, with dancing latyrs, by Paul Brill. The rape of Helen, by Thefeus. The return of Chryfeis to her faher, both by Pri* maticcio. The Bed-chamber has a green damafk bed, hangings and chairs, trimmed with gold. The paintings are, 1. An original portrait of Oliver Cromwell. 2. A Silenus. 3. A portrait of Colonel Stanyan. In another Drefling-room are the following paintings : A portrait of Rubens's wife, over one door, by Rubens. Over the other, a knight of the Bath, by Vandyke. Cyrnon and Iphigenia. The State Gallery is feventy feet nine inches by twenty-five feet, and twenty-two feet high. Here are two marble chimney-pieces of Sienna, &«, The ceiling finely ornamented with paintings and gild- ing, by Sclater. Two fine large marble tables, with two large pier-glafles. The walls are adorned with cu, rious pieces of tapeflry, viz. 1. The triumph of Diana. 2. The triumph of Mars. 3. The triumph of Venus. 4. The triumph of Bacchus. 5. The triumph of Ceres. The piers are adorned with trophies. Two chimnies, the upper parts of which are adorned with gilding and carving. 1. Reprefenting Mercury conducting Tragic and Co- mic Poetry to the hill of Parnaflus. 2. A goddefs conducting Learning to Truth. The chairs and fettees of blue damafk, with carved and gilded frames. The State Drefling-room is twenty-four feet eight inches by thirty feet, and nineteen feet four inches hia;h. It is hung with blue damafk, chairs and window-curtains of the fame. The doors and ceiling are finely orna- mented with carving and gilding. The paintings are, A fine portrait of the late lord Cobham, by Sir God- frey Kneller. Four converfation pieces, by Francifco Cippo. Venus binding the eyes of a Cupid, and the Graces offering tribute. A marble table, with a fine pier glafs. The State Bed-chamber is fifty-fix feet eight inches, by twenty-five feet ten inches, and eighteen feet eight inches high. The bed and ceiling by Signor Borra. The chairs and hangings of crimfon damafk. Pillars of the Corin- thian order. The whole finely carved and gilt. A Madona from the fchool of Rubens. A picture over the chimney. A very curious chimney-piece of white marble, de- figned by Signor Borra. Two marble tables. Two fine large pier-glafles. The State Clofet is hung with blue damafl:, finely orn-'nented with carving and gilding. Out of which vou eo into a colonade, where you hr.ve a beautiful view of & U L iv^[ IN U 11 A IVJP J 11 1— 7TT of the gardens, as well as the country ; and the paffage is ornamented with marble bulls. There is alfo a grand ftair-cafe, adorned with paint- ings of the four legions. The ceiling reprefents the riling fun, by Phcebus in his car. THE GARDENS. The fouthern entrance of the gardens is formed by two li?;ht pavilions, of the Doric order, dcfigncd by Sir John Vanbrugh : they are adorned with rough mafterly paintino-s, by Nollikins. The ftories are from Paftor Fido. Almoft the firft. ftriking object which occurs, is an Obelifk, near jfevcnty feet high, defigned for a jet d'eau, and placed irrlne middle of a large octogon piece of wa- ter. At fome diftance we perceive two rivers, which are at laft united, and enter the octagon in one ftream. Over one of thefe is a Paliadian bridge. From this point a Gothic edifice dedicated to Liberty, feventy feet in height, appears on the top of a hill. On the left is an Egyptian pyramid, from whence we were formerly conducted to the Cold Bath. Here we have a profpect of a natural cafcade, falling from the laft-mentioned octagon, in three diftindt fheets, into an extenfive lake. One~of the fheets pafies through the arch of an artificial ruin, covered with ever-greens. But it is time to drop this general and collective de- tail, into which the firft admittance to a promifcuous furvey of fo many beauties has imperceptibly betrayed us. We therefore proceed to give a circumftantial and diftinct difplay of each remarkable particular, as it fe- verally and fucceffively prefents itfelf, in our progrefs through the gardens. The Hermitage, built of rough ftone, and agreeably fituated in a rifing wood, on the banks of the lake. The {latues of Cain and Abel, which are finely exe- cuted. The Temple of Venus, with the infeription, Veneri Hortenji, i. e. " To the Garder/Venus." It was de- figned by Kent, and is painted with the ftory of Helle- nore and Malbecco, in Spencer's Fairy Queen, by Sleter. It is adorned in the front with the bulls of Nero, Vefoafian, Cleopatra, and Fauftina. Over the frize is the following motto alluding to the painting, from a poem afcribed to Catullus. Nunc amet, qui nunquam amavit; Quique amavit, nunc amet. Thus tranflated by Parnell : Let him love now, who never lov'd before ; Let him who ever lov'd, now love the more. The Belvidere, or Gibbes's Building. Underneath is an ice-houfc. The Roman Boxers, admirably copied. Two Pavilions. One of them is ufed as a dwelling- houfe ; the other is ornamented with the ftatues of Julius Csefar, Cicero, Portia, and Livia. The Egyptian Pyramid, which is fixty feet in height, with this infeription, " Inter plurima hortorum horum redificia a Johanne Vanbrugh, equite, defignata, hanc Pyramidem iliius memoriae facram voluit Cobham." That is, " Among the many edifices in thefe gardens de- " figwd by Sir John Vanbrugh^ Cobham dedicates this y in *' particular, to his memory. Within is the following infeription from Horace: Lufifti fatis, edifti fatis, atquebibifti, Tempus abire tibi eft j ne pot urn largis aequo Rkleatet pulfet lafciva decentius aetas. . Thus tranflated, extempore, by a gentleman, upon the fpot : Enough, my friend, you've trifled, drank, and eat, 'Tis time, at leaft 'tis prudence, to retreat ; - Left wanton boys exert their decent rage, And kick you drunk and reeling from the ftage. The ftatues of Hercules and Antrc-is, fituated in a field, "enclofed with a fence of ftakts, after the military manner. St. Auguftine's Cave, a monaftic cell, built with mofs and roots : within is a ftraw couch, and the following inferiptions, which are extremely happy in the ftile of the old monkifh Latin verfe, and faid to have been com- pofed by Mr. Glover, the ingenious author of Leonjdas. On the right hand : Sanctus Pater Auguftinus, (Prout aliquis divinus Narrat) contra fenfualem -• Actum Veneris Icthalem, (Audiat clericus) ex nive, Similem puellam vivre, Arte mire conformabat, Quacum bonus vir cubabat : Quod fi fas eft in errorem Tantum cadere doftorem ; Qua?ri poteft, an carnalis Mulier potius, quam nivalis, Non fit apta ad domandum, Subigendum, debellandum, Carnis tumidum furorem, Et importunum ardorem ? Nam ignis igne pellitur, Vetus ut veibum loquitur. Sed, innuptus, hac in lite, Appellabo te, marite. That is, "The holy Father Auguftinc, (as fomedivines tell us) againft the fenfual and deadly act of luft — (give ear, ye priefts) — framed by wondrous art, a girl of fnow, refembling the life, with whom the good man ufed to lie. But, if it be allowable for fo great a doctor to fall into error, may we not reafonably afk, whether or not a girl of flefh and blood is not better qualified than one made of fnow, to allay the importunate ardours of luft ? For as the old maxim fays, fire is expelled by fire. But I, an unmarried man, appeal to married men for a folution of this difficulty." On the left : Apparuit mihi, nuper in fomnio mulier cum nudis et anhelantibus molliter papillis et hianti fuaviter vultu~ eheu ! benedicite ! Cur gaudes, Satana, muliebrem fumere formam ? Non facies voti cafti me rumpere normam. Heus ! fugite in cellam; pulchram vitate puellam; Nam radix mortis fuit olim Fcemina in Hortis. • Vis fieri fortis ? Noli concumbere fcortis. In fandtum originem eunuchum. Fili us ecclefiae origines fbrtaffe probetur ; Lite patrem nunquam fe fine tefte probet. Virtus Diaboli eft in lumbis. That is, " A girl with a naked and panting bofoirt lately appeared to me in a dream, &c. &c. " Why, O Satan, do you chufe to appear in a female fhape ? You will never force me to break my vows of chaftity. — Hafte, fly into your cell, and efcape from the power of beauty ; for the root of death was heretofore a Woman in a Garden. " Would you be ftrong? Avoid unlawful enjoy- ments." The laft cannot be eafily tranflated. Nor is it pof- fible, by the belt Englifh tranflation, to give a juft idea of the reft ; the turn and humour of which is inherent in the Latin. The fame may be faid of the following^ which fronts the door: Mente pie_elata, peragro dum dulciaprata, Dormiit, abfque dolo, pulchra puellafoloj Multa oftendebat, dum femifupina jacebat, Pulchrumos, divinum pectus aperta finum. Ut vidi mammas, concepi extempore flammas, Et dicturus ave dico, Maria, cave ; Nam magno totus violenter turbine motus, Pcene illam invado, pcene et in ora cado. Ilia fed haud lente furgit, curritque repente, Currit et, invito me, fugit ilia cito, Fugit Fugit caufa mali, tamen effectus Satanali Internoque meum cor vorat igne reum. O inferne canis, cur quotidie eft tibi panis, Per vifus miros follicitare viros ? Gur monachos velles fieri tam carne rebelles, Nec cafla? legi turbidi membra regi ? En tibi jam bellum dico, jam trifle flagellum Efuriemque paro, queis fubigenda caro. Quin abfcindatur, ne pars fincera trabatur, Radix, quo folus nafcitur ufquc dolus. That is, " As filled with devotion, I wandered over the delightful meadows ; a beautiful virgin was fleeping on the ground. As {he lay half- reclined, fhe difcovered many beauties. Her naked bofom awakened my defires, and as I am about to fay Ave Maria, I cried out, Mary, beware. My fudden paflion almoft tempted me to feize her in my arms ; but {he arofe, and fuddenly fled from me. The caufe of my pain is departed, but the effect ftill remains, and devours my guilty heart with inward fires. O, thou dog of hell, why is it your daily food to tempt mankind with thefe ftrange fpec- tacles ? Why is it your pleafure to raife rebellion in the flefh of monks, nor ever to fuffer their turbulent emo- tions to fubmit to the laws of chaftity ? But I now de- clare war againft you, and intend to conquer my paf- fions with the fcourge, and with hunger. But perhaps it is beft to cut off* the root of evil, left the found parts fhould be infixed." The Temple of Bacchus, an edifice of brick. Its infide is adorned with Bacchanalian fcenes, painted iby Nollikins. Among the reft, are two vafes touched in a mailerly tafte. Some of the fmaller figures, in particu- lar, demand our attention. A fmall Obelifk, with this infcription, " To the memory of Robin Coucher." The Saxon Temple. An altar fituated in an open grove, about which the feven Saxon deities, which de- nominate the feveral days of the week, were formerly placed ; but thele have been fince removed to the Gothic Temple. Nelfon's Seat. This is an elegant little building, from whence there is an agreeable open profpect. In the infide are the following inferiptions, explaining the paintings, in which the boys fixing the trophies are ele- gantly fancied. On the right hand, Ultra Euphratem et Tigrim ufque ad Oceanum propagata ditione, Orbis terrarum unperium Roma adfignat optimus princeps, cui fuper advolat Victoria Laurigerum fertum hinc inde utraque manu extendens, comitantibus Pietate ct Abundantia. In areu ConJIantuii. That is, " Beyond Euphrates and Tigris, having extended his dominions even to the Ocean, the moft excellent prince afligns the empire of the world to Rome. Above whom flies Victory, extending a laurel wreath on •ither fide, with both hands, attended by Piety and Plenty." 'In the arch of Conftantine. On the left. Pofl obitum L. Veri. in impcrio cum Marco confortis, Roma integram orbis terrarum potefhitem ei ct iu eo contulit. In CapitoUo. That is, " After the death of Lucius Verus, aflbciate in the empire with Marcus, Rome conferred on him the entire command of the whole earth." In the Capitol. The Equeftrian Statue of King George I. in complete armour, placed at the head of the canal, oppofite the Horth front of the houfe, with this infcription from Virgil: In medio mihi C.-vfar eri t. Et viridi In campo figrium de ni arm ore ponam Propter aquam. Coeiiam. Thus tranflated : " Full in the midft fhall C?efar's form divine " Aufpicious ftaad, the godhead of the fhrine. — - " And near the ft ream a marble ftatue rear." The Statue of His Late Majefty, raifed on a Corin- thian pillar, with this infcription : Georgio Augufto. That is, " To George Auguftus." Dido's Cave; a retired dark building,. with this in- fcription from Virgil : Speluncam Dido, dux ct Trojanus, eandem Deveniunt. : Thus tranflated on the fpot : treet, about a mile and a half from the church. Behdes the market; here are two annual fairs, the firft held on Whitfun-Tuefday, and the fecond on the thirteenth of Oaober ; both tor horfes, cows, and Iheep. Hatfield Broadoak, the next place we viiited, is twenty-eight miles diftant from London. It has its title of Broadoak from a large fpreadin* oak which formerly crew in the town. The church of St. Mary in this town was given, about the year 1140, by Aubrey de Vere, the fecond of that name, and father to the hrit earl of Oxford, to the monks of the abbey of St. Me- lenius, at Redon in Britanny, to which it became a cell; but his fon, the earl of Oxford, is thought to have increafed its revenues, and to have made it an in- dependent priory of black monks, for fuch it was at the fuppreffion, when it contained nine monks, whofe an- nual revenues amounted to one hundred and twenty-two pounds thirteen millings and two-pence. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and an annual fair on the third of Auguft, for lambs. At Takely, a village to the northward of Hatheld Broadoak, was a priory, given by king Henry I. to the abbey of St. Valery, in Picardy, which, upon the dilio- lution of alien priories, was made partot the endowment of New College, in Oxford. At Themhall, a village north-weft of Hatfield Broad- oak, was a priory of black canons, founded by Gilbert de Montefixo, or Mountfichet, who came into England with the Conqueror. It was dedicated to St. James, and valued, on the diffolution, at fixty pounds eighteen (hillings and feven-pence per annum. At Birchanger, a village a little to the north-welt of Hatfield Broadoak, Richard, fon of Serlo de Newport, founded, in the reign of king John, an hofpital for a mafter and two chaplains. It was dedicated to St. Mary and St. Leonard, and under the peculiar jurifdiaion of the dean of St. Martin's, in London. At the fuppreffion, the revenues amounted to thirty-one pounds thirteen {hillings aud eleven-pence per annum. Dunmow, which we next vifited, is called Dunmow Magna, or Great Dunmow, to diftinguifti it from a village in its neighbourhood, called Dunmow Parva* or Little Dunmow. It ftands on a gravelly hill, warned by the Chelmer, thirty-eight miles from London. It aives name to its hundred, the bailiff of which is ap- pointed by the high fheriff of the county. It is a very ancient town, and governed by twelve headboroughs, out of which a bailiff or chief officer is chofen every year. Its chief trade confifts in a manufacture of baize ; but it is not now equal to what it was about half a cen- tury ago. . This place is fuppofed by fome writers to be the Czefaromagus of the Romans ; and in feveral parts of the road between this place and Colchefter, are ftifl to be feen the remains of an old Roman way, which the inhabitants call the Street. Here was formerly a priory •, and the place is famous for an ancient cuftom, of the origin of which we have the following account : One Robert Fitzwalter, a powerful baron in this county, in the time of Henry III. inftituted a cuftom in the priory here : That whatever married man did not repent of his being married, or differ and dii'pute with his wife, within a year and a day after his marriage, and would fwear to the truth of it, kneeling upon two hard-pointed ftones in the Priory Church-yard, fet up for that purpofe, in prefence of the prior and convent, fuch peiibn'fhould have a flitch of bacon. This has been a&ually claimed and received, as ap- pears by the following record there ; fo that either huf- bands and wives muft be here more fuitably matched, or the fweareis have harder mouths, than in moft other partj of England. Dunmow Priory, Ejj'.x. At a court baron of the right worlhipful Sir Thomas May, knight, there holden on Friday the twenty- feventh day of June, in the thirteenth year of the reign of our Sovereign Lord William 111. by the grace of God of England, Scotland, France, and 3 1 E X. 29} Ireland, king, defender of the faith, &c. and in the year of our Lord 1701, before Thomas Wheeler, gentleman, fteward there'. Homage Eliz. Beaumont, Henrietta Beaumont, Annabella Beaumont, . Jane Beaumont, Mary Wheeler, Spinfters, jur'. Be it remembered, That at this court, it is found and prefented by the homage aforefaid, that John Reynolds, of Hatfield-Regis, alias Hatfield-Broadoake, in the county of Eflex, Gent, and Anne his wife, have beeri married for the fpace of ten years laft paft, and upwards; And it is likewife found, prefented, and adjudged, by the homage aforefaid, that the faid J. Reynolds, and Anne his wife, by means of their quiet and peaceable, tender and loving cohabitation, for the fpace of time aforefaid (as appears by reference to the faid homage) are fit and qualified perfons to be admitted by the court to receive the ancient and accufromed Oath, whereby to intitle themfelves to have the bacon of Dunmow delivered unto them, according to the cuftom of the manor : Where- upon, at the court, in full and open court, came the faid John Reynolds, and Anne his wife, in their proper perfons; and humbly prayed, that they might be ad- mitted to take the oath aforefaid : Whereupon the faid fteward, with the jury, fuitorS, and other officers of the court, proceeded, with the ufual folemnity, to the. ancient and accuftomed place for the adminiftration of the oath, and receiving the bacon aforefaid ; that is to fay, to the two great ftones lying near the church-door, within the faid manor ; where the faid John Reynolds, and Anne his wife, kneeling down on the faid two ftones-, the faid fteward did adminifter unto them the afore- mentioned oath, in thefe words, Or to this effect following: You do fwear, by cuftom of confeffiort, That you never made nuptial tranfgrefiion ; Nor^ fince you were married man and wife, By houfhold brawls, or contentious ftrife, Or otherwife, in bed or board, Offended each other in deed Or word ; 4 Or, in a twelvemonth's time, and a day^ Repented not in thought any way; Or, fince the church clerk laid, Amen, Wiih'd yourfelves unmarry'd again j But continue true^ and in defire, As when you join'd hands in holy choir. And immediately thereupon, the faid John Reynolds, and Anne his wife, claiming the faid bacon, the court pronounced fentence for the fame in thefe words, or t» the effect following : Since to thefe conditions, without any fear^ Both, of your own accord, do freely fwear, A whole gamon of bacon you do receive, And bear it away with love and good leave: For this is the cuftom of Dunmow well known ; Tho' the pleafure be ours, the bacon's your own. And accordingly 2 gamon of bacon was delivered to the faid John Reynolds, and Anne his wife, with the ufual folemnity. And alfo William P*rfley, of Much Eyfton, in the county of Effex, and Jane his wife, being married for the fpace of three years laft paft, and upwards, by means of their quiet, peaceable, tender, and loving cohabitation for the faid fpace of time^, came and claimed the faid bacon, and had it delivered unto them, according to the forefaid order. Thomas Wheeler, Steward. The flitch was alfo claimed by one John Shakefhanks, wool-comber, and Anne his wife, of Weathersfield, in the fame county, on Thurfday, June 20, 1751- Here is a Weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fixth of May, and the eighth of Novem- ber, both for cattle. G g g g At At Little Dunmow, a ullage in the neighbourhood of this town, the lady Jaga, fifter to Ralph Baytiard, erecfed, in the year i 104, a church, which (he dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Two years after, her fon, Geoffrey, placed here a ibciety of canons, Who obferved the rule of St. Auguftine. Upon the fuppreflion, here were a prior and ten or eleven religious, whofe annual revenues amounted to one hundred and fifty pounds three (hil- lings and four-pence. At Tiltey, a villaee near Dunmow, Robert Ferrers, earl of Derby, and Ivfaurice Fitz Jeffrey, founded, about the year 11 52, an abbey of white monks, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Walden, or Saffron Walden, from the great quan- tities of faffron cultnated in its neighbourhood, is fitu- ated on the borders of Cambridgefhire, forty-two miles from London. It was incorporated by king Edward VI. and governed by twenty-four aldermen, out of Whom a principal officer, called Treafurer, and two affiftants, called Chamberlains, were annually chofen ; but by a Charter granted by king William and queen Mary, it has a mayor. It is a very confiderable town, has a good church, an alms-houfe well endowed, and a free-fchool on a royal foundation. A priory of Benedicfine monks was founded here in the year 1 1 36, by Geoffrey Mandevil, the firft carl of Effex, and dedicated to St. Mary and St. James. In the time of king Richard I. it became an abbey, and was valued, on the diffolution, at three hundred and feventy-two pounds eighteen (hillings and a penny per annum. A great deal of faffron is cultivaed in the fields near this town. We have explained the whole procefs of raifing and curing this ufeful commodity, in our remarks on the hufbandry of this county. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and three an- nual fairs, viz. JVlidlent Saturday, for horfes and bul- locks ; and the firft of November, for cows. Near this town, on the fide of the Cambridge road, ftands the noble and ftately palace of Audley-lnn, or Audley-End, formerly the largeft palace of any in Eng- land ; and though a great part of it has been pulled down, is ftill one of the molt; magnificent ftruetures in the whole kingdom. It was built out of the ruins of the above-mentioned monaftery, by Thomas, fecond fon of Thomas duke of Norfolk, who married the only daughter and heir of lord Audley. This Thomas was fummoned into parliament in queen Elizabeth's time, as lord Audley of Walden ; and was afterwards created earl of Suffolk by king James I. to whom he was firft chamberlain, and afterwards lord high treafurer. It was defigned for a royal palace for that king ; and, when it was finifhed with all the elegance and polite tafte of the times, the king was invited to fee it; and, as he paffed to Newmarket, he took up a night's lodging there : when, after having viewed it with great furprize and aftonifhment, the earl afked him, How he approved of it ? Who anfwered, Very well. But troth, man, faid he, it is too much for a king ; but it may do for a lord high treafurer ; and lb left it upon the earl's hands, who is reported to have had then an eftate of fifty thoufand pounds a year, which has been gradually decaying ever iince, and is now reduced to about three thoufand pounds a year, with incumbrances upon it. King Charles II. purchafed this houfe, and fo it became, what it was originally defigned for, a royal palace. The king mort- gaged the hearth-tax to the earl, to anfwer the purchafe- money ; and appointed James, then earl of Suffolk, houfekeeper thereof, with a falary of one thoufand pounds a year; which office continued in the family till the Re- volution, when the hearth-tax was abolifhed. And the exigence of theftate being fuch, as it could not afford to pay the purchafe-money, king William III. re-granted the faid houfe to the family ; upon which Henry carl of Suffolk (who, in his father's life-time, was created earl of Bindon, to qualify him to hold the marfhal's ftaff) pulled down a great part of this noble edifice, and re- duced it confiderably ; and yet it is ftill very large, and makes a grand appearance. We enter in at a large wide pair of iron gates, into a moft fpacious court-yard, on each fide of which was formerly a row of cloifters, in which ftooJ the out-office;, belonging to the hou^, ' have been all pulled down, and fupplied with a ftonc wall. We pafs in at the fore front, through part of the houfe, into a large open quadrangle, inclofed by four different parts of the houfe, and alfo furrounded with cloifters. The apartments above and below are very lofty and fpacious ; and there is a gallery, which ex- tends the whole length of the back front of the houfe, and is judged to be the largeft in England. The gar- dens are indifferent, but very capable of improvement. Behind the houfe is a fine park, extending to Saffron- Walden, well ftored with deer, but not over-burdened with timber ; in which there is a rifing fpot of groundj- Whereon, if the houfe had been erecTted, it would have had a much better effecf as to profpect ; for its prefent fituation is low, neither are the grounds about it very fertile, nor, we think, healthy. But however great and magnificent this noble houfe appears, it bears an indelible ftain, if what is faid be true, That it was built with Spanifh gold, upon the ruin of the great and learned Raleigh, who fell by the re- venge of Spain, the arts of Gundamor, the avarice of Suffolk, and the unpardonable weaknefs of his own king. At a fmall town called Littlebury, not far from Audley- lnn, is an houfe which was erected by the famous Mr. Winftanley, who built Eddyftone light-houfe, and pe- rifhed in it. Here he had made many odd contrivances of chairs running on fprings, &c. which ufually much furprifed ftrangers, who came to fee the houfe. The perfon appointed to fhew it generally placed the greateft ftranger in a particular chair, which, on touching the fpring, ran backward through the houfe into the garden. The fame gentleman was famous alfo for his water- works, full of whimfical, but ingenious contrivances. But we ought not to omit, that near Icleton and Strethal, upon the river Cam, lies Chefterford, where, in the year 1719, were difcovered the veftigia of a Roman city. The foundation of the walls is very apparent quite round, though level with the ground, including about fifty acres. Great part of it ferves for a caufeway to the public Cambridge road from London. The Crown Inn is built upon it. In the north-weft end of the town is the foundation of a Roman temple. Many Roman coins have been found in the Boroughfield, as they term the ancient city, whofe name was Cambo- ritum, according to Dr. Stukely. In this parifh, they fay, has been a royal manor. Not far off, by Audley- lnn, is a great Roman camp, upon an eminence, where now ftands an hunting-tower of brick. Thackfted is a confiderable market-town, fituated on the river Chelmer, thirty-two miles from London. It was incorporated by Philip and Mary ; and the corpo- ration confifts of a mayor, bailiff, and commonality. Queen Elizabeth confirmed the charter, and king James I. added feveral privileges, and granted the corporation a recorder. The church is a regular and ftately building, but has nothing very remarkable. Here is a weekly market on Friday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fix- teenth of May, and the tenth of Auguft, for horfes and black cattle. Braintry, or Braintree, the next place we vifited, is forty-two miles from London. It is a large town, with fome goodhoufes, lately built. It abounds with diffenters, and one of their community, Henry Smith, Efq; left two thoufand eight hundred pounds to be laid out in the purchafe of land for the relief of the poor of this and the neighbouring parifhes. This town was, not many years ago, famous for a manufacture of baize and fayes, but it is now greatly declined. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and two annual fairs, viz. the eighth of May, and the fecond or' Ocfober, for cattle, butter, cheefe, &c. Near Braintree, is the parifh of Black-Notely, in which area few fcattered houfes, fcarcely worth noticing, except for the memory of the late learned Mr. Ray, who refided many years in this place, and was buried in the church-yard ; over whofe grave a monument was eretSled, with an infeription in Latin; which being long, wefhall refer the learned to the original, and content ourfelves with E S S £ 0, with giving the Engiifh, for the fake of our common readers, and in regard to fo great a man, who was an honour to his country. It may be thus rendered : " The mortal part of the moll learned John Ray, " A. M. is depofited in this narrow tomb : but his " writings are not confined to one nation ; and his fame, " every where moft illuftrious, renders them immortal. " Formerly he was fellow of Trinity College, in Cam- " bridge, and of the Royal Society in London ; a fingu- " lar ornament of both. In every kind of fcience, as " well divine as human, moft expert. And, like a fe- " cond Solomon (to whom alone, perhaps, he was in- " ferior), from the cedar to the hyflbp, from the largeft *' of animals to the fmalleft infects, he arrived at a con- fummate knowledge. And not only did he moft ac- " Curately difcourfe of plants fpread over the face of the £ ' whole earth ; but, making a moft ftrict fearch, even " into its inmoft bowels, whatever deferved difcuflion " throughout all nature, he defcribed. While on his tc travels abroad, he diligently difcovered what had * efcaped the obfervation of others, and firft brought to " light many things moft worthy of remark. Further rs, in the time of Edward I. It was one of thofe fmall monafteries which were diffolved by Car- dinal Wolfey, at which time Anthony Darcy claimed the right of founder. It was valued at twenty-two pounds fixteen fhillings and eight-pence per annum. After the Cardinal's attainder, it was granted, together with Stonefgate, in the twenty-fourth year of Henry VIII. in exchange, to the knights of St. John of Jerufalem. From Witham we palled to Coggefhall, or Cofhall, thought by fome to have derived its name from a Roman called Coccillus, who was buried here. And in a grotto near this town, a phial was found, containing a lamp, covered with a Roman tile, near fourteen inches long ; alfo fome urns, with afhes and bones in them ; one of the urns, refembling coral, had this infeription, Coccilli M. " To the manes of Coccillus." It is fituated 0.1 the banks of the river Blackwater, forty-feven miles from London, it had once a very confiderable manufac- ture of baize and fayes, and of a peculiar kind of ftuft* called Coggefhall whites, faid to be finer than any other woollen cloth ; and this manufacture, though much di- minifhed, is ftill confiderable. King Stephen, and Matilda his queen, founded here, in the year 1142, an abbey for Ciftertian or White monks, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. At the diflblution, it was endowed with a yearly revenue of two hundred and fifty-one pounds two fhillings. Here 2%% E S 3 Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and an annual fair on Whitfun-Monday and Tuefday, for cattle and toys. Halfled is a fmall market-town, fituated on a hill, upon the banks of the river Coin, forty-five miles from London. It is a clean, well-built town, but has no- thing remarkable. Acollcge was alfo begun here by Robert de Bouchier, !<->rd chancellor of England, in the fourteenth year of E Iward III. and intended for eight priefts ; but had never, in all probability, fo many in it, for the endow- ment of this fociety was valued at no more than twenty- iix pounds five (hillings and eight-pence per annum. At Henningham-caftle, a village on the Coin, north- welt of Halfted, Aubery de Vere, the third of that name, and firft earl of Oxford ; or, according to fome, his countefs Lucia, who became the firft priorefs, built, about the year 119c, a fmall Benedidtine nunnery, and dedicated it to the Holy Crofs, St. Mary, and St. James. It had five nuns at the time of the fuppreffion, when its revenues were valued at twenty-nine pounds twelve {hil- lings and ten-pence per annwn. At Henningham, near Henningham-caftle, Hugh de Vere, earl of Oxford, founded, about the year 1250, an hofpital, wherein were two or three chaplains, be- fides a clerk, fervant, and the fick and decrepit poor people. Colchefter, to which we patted from Halfted, is fituated on the river Coin, which wafhes the north and eaft parts of it, fifty-eight miles from London. It is governed by a mayor, a high fteward, a recorder, or his deputy, eleven aldermen, a chamberlain, a town-clerk, eighteen affiftants, and eighteen common-councilmen. It re- ceived its laft charter from king William III. and is a liberty of itfelf, having four wards and fixteen parifties, eight of which are within the walls, and eight without. It is a populous place, and the chief town in the county. It is about three miles in circumference, pleafantly fituated on the fide of a hill. The ftreets, two of which run from the top of this hill to the bottom, are fpacious ; and though not in general remarkably well built, yet there are a great many good houfes in it, befides the guild-hall, and a hall, called Dutch-baize-hall, belong- ing to a corporation for the fupport of the baize and fay manufactures, both which are fine buildings. Here are ten parifh-churches, one Dutch church, and oneFrench church ; and five meeting-houfes, two of which belong to the Quakers. It was formerly furrounded by a ftrong wall, and defended by a caftle, the ruins of which are itill to be feen. Here is a particular corporation for maintaining the poor, confifting of the mayor and alder- men for the time being, and forty-eight guardians. Here are alfo two charity-fchools, one for feventy boys, and the other for fifty boys and girls ; a work-houfe, and two free grammar-fchools. Here are alfo three bridges over the river Coin, which was made navigable by act of parliament for fmall craft, up to a long ftreet next the water-fide, called the Hith, where there is a key, and for fhips of large burden to a place called Wyvenhoe, within three miles of the town, where there is a cuftom-houfe ; and a little further towards the fea, the water may receive a royal navy. This town has the greateft manufacture of baize and fayes of any in England ; it is alfo remarkable for can dying eringo roots, but much more for the excellency of its oyfters. They are taken near the mouth of the Coin, upon the fands called the Spits, and are carried up to Wyvenhoe, where they are laid in beds or pits on the fhore to feed ; after they have continned in thefe pits fome time, they are barrelled and brought to Colchefter, from whence they are fent in great quantities to London, and other places. Such fhoals of fprats are caught and confirmed by the woollen mannfacturers here, that the common name for this fifh in EiTex, is, the Weavers Beef of Colchefter. At this place, Eudo, a great officer in the courts of king William the Conqueror, and his two fons and fuc- cclfors, built an abbey of Benedictine monks, dedicated to St. John the Baptift. It was begun in the year 1096, and finifhed in 1104. Its yearly revenue, at the diffa- E X. Iution, was five hundred and twenty-three pounds feven- teen {hillings. Eudo alio, at the command of king Henry I. erected, juft without the town, on the fouth-eaft fide, an hofpital for a mafter and fevcral leprous people, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and valued, upon the difiblution, at eleven pounds a year. One Eynulphus, or Ernulphus, in the beginning of the reign of Henry I. founded, on the fouth fide of "this town, a monaftery of Auftin canons, dedicated to Sr. Julian and St. Botulph, and became prior of it himfelf. It was deemed the firft houfe of this order in England, and at the fuppreffion was valued - at one hundred and thirteen pounds twelve (hillings and eight-pence/)^ annum. About the year 1309, Robert lord Fitzwalter built a priory, near the Eaft Gate of this town, for Francifcan or Grey friars, and afterwards took the habit himfelf. The revenues, upon the fuppreffion, are not known. This town fends two members to parliament, has two weekly markets, held on Wednefday and Saturday ; and four annual fairs, viz. Eafter-Tuefday, for wholefale taylors ; the twenty-fourth of June, for horfes ; the twenty-third of July, for cattle and horfes ; and the twentieth of October, for cattle, horfes, cheefe, butter, and toys. The manor of Weft Merfey, in an ifland called Merfey Ifland, fituated at the mouth of the Coin, below Colchefter, was given by Edward the Confeffor to the monks of St. Andoen, at Roan, a town in Normandy, who fettled here a convent of Benedictine?, that became a cell to that foreign abbey. It is thought to have been dedicated to St. Peter. Upon the difiblution of alien priories, king Henry V. granted this to Henry Chichely, archbifhop of Canterbury, who made it part of the en- dowment of a collegiate church founded by him at Higham Ferrers, a borough town of Northamptonfhire, the place of his nativity. At Chick, a village fome miles fouth-eaft of Col- chefter, was a monaftery, faid by legendary writers to be themoft ancient in this county. They tell us, a nun- nery was built here by Ofitha, daughter of king Frith- wald, and queen to Sighere, king of the Eaft Saxons ; that flie dedicated it to St. Peter and St. Paul, and lived in it till {he was martyred by the Danes in 653 ; but it appears from better authority, that before 11 18, Richard de Belmeris, bifhop of London, in honour of the apoftles St. Peter and St. Paul, and cf St. Ofitha: the fuppofed original foundrefs, built a religious houfe here for canons of the order of St. Auftin, which, at the fuppreffion, was endowed with fix hundred and feventy-feven pounds one {billing and two-pence a year. At Horfley Proa, a village north-weft of Colchefter, was a priory of Cluniac monks, fubordinate to the mo- naftery of the fame order at Thetford, a borough town of Norfolk, founded by Robert Fitz-Godebold, and Beatrix his wife, in the time of Henry I. It was dedi- cated to St. Peter, and fuppreffed by Cardinal Wolfey, when the yearly revenues of it were rated at twenty- feven pounds feven (hillings and eleven-pence. At Layer Marney, a village fouth of Colchefter, there was a fmall college or chauntry, for a warden and two priefts, founded in the church of St. Mary, about the year 1330. by William Marney, lord of the manor. At Little Hornefly, a village north-weft of Colchefter, was an hofpital, mentioned in a letter of commiffioner Kingfton's to Bonner bifhop of London, in the year 1557. Harwich derives its name from the Saxon word Hare- rie, a haven or bay where a navy may ride, ana is fup- pofed to be fo called from a fea-fight between the Saxons and the Danes, in the harbour on which the town ftands, in the year 889. It is diftant from London feventy-one miles, and was firft made a borough by king Edward II. It was afterwards incorporated by king James I. and the corporation now confiftsof a mayor, chofen annually on the thirtieth of November, eight aldermen, twenty-four capital burgefies, and a recorder. The mayor has a power to keep courts of admiralty, which have a juris- diction over all naval affairs. The town is not large, but well-built and populous. It is fill rounded by a wall, and the ftreets arc well paved. Between ■ E S S E X. Between the town and a high hill called Beacon-hill, not far dillant, there is a cliff, con filling of a kind of day, parts of which are continually falling down into a petrifying water it the bottom, which they imbibe, and being aft t wards taken out and dried, they become an impenetrable and durable ftone, and of this ftone the wells and pavement of Harwich confiih The church, e ver hnce the Reformation, has been a chapel to the mother church, which is at a neighbouring village, called Dover Court. The h.irbour is very fafe, and fo fpacious, that an hundred (ail of men of war, with their tenders, befides three or four hundred fail of colliers, have frequently been feen here at the fame time. The mouth of the harbour, at h ; gh water, is near three miles wide; but the channel, by which alone the Ihips can come into the harbour, is deep and narrow, and lies on the Suffolk fide, fo that all the (hips that come in or go out,^ are commanded by a fitting fort, called Landguard Fort, built by king James I. on a point of land, fo furrounded by the lea at high-water, that it looks like an ifland, lying about a mile from the fhore. The town was for- merly fortified on the land-fide, but in the reign of king Charles I. the fortifications were demoliflied. An act of parliament has iince pafled for fortifying this town anew, and ground has been purchafed for that purpofe, but little of no progrefs has been made in the work. Here is a very good yard for building fhips, with ltore- boufes, crows, launches, and other neceflaries. The packet-boats which cany the mails between England and Holland, are {rationed here, and this is the port to pais to and from Holland to Germany. The inns are very good, but the concourfe of pailengers made accom- modations fo dear, that floops were lometime ftnee fitted up to fait directly for Holland and Germany from the Thames ; and the flage-coaches, that ufed to pais two or three times a week between this place and London, were, after this regulation, laid down. On Beacon-hifi, fouth of the harbour, and oppofite to the fort, there is a large high-built light-houfe, whence there is an extenliv e view of the coaffs of Suffolk and Eflex. Beacon-hill is about half a mile diftant from the town, and there is a walk to it, which in fine weather is extremely pleafant. There are three iilands fouth-weft of Harwich, called Pevet, Hcrfey, and Holmes ; which, however, are fepa- ratcd from the main land only by the winding of a flrcam, and the influx of the lea into that itream. Upon thefc iilands there is found a fea-fowl, which, when fat, is very delicious food. South of thefe iflands, there are three villages, which are included within a liberty or lordfhip, anciently the liberty of the Soke, in which the fheriff of the county has no power, and in which no writ can be executed but by the bailiff of the liberty, nor bv him, without the content of the lord. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Friday, and two annual fairs, viz. the firft of M'ay, and the eighteenth of October, both for toys. The fpringat the bottom of the cliff between Beacon- hill and the town of Harwich, petrifies not only the earth that falls into it from the top of the cliff, but wood alfo ; and a larre piece of wood thus petrified, is pre- ferved in the repolitorv of the Royal Society. At the bottom of this cliff, in a flratum of ftone, have been found a great variety of fhells, both of the turbi- nated and bivalve kinds; and upon the fhore, under the hill, is found the ftone from which our common copperas is prepared, and which people here, for that reafon, call the Copperas Stone. To prepare copperas from thefe ftones, they are mixed with earth, and difpofed into light beds, above ground, where they diffolve by the rains and dews. This folution is received into trunks, propeily clifpofed, which conduct it into a large leaden ciftein, whence it is again conveyed into a leaden boiler, where, after boiling fame time, it is drawn off into coolers, where it fhoots into cryftals. Thefe ftones are alio found in fome places on the coafl of Kent, where there are works of the like kind for making copperas from them. 3 2 305 Manningtree, or Maintree, diftant fifty-nine miles from London, is fituated on the river Stour, over which it has a bridge. It is a little dirty town, but has a good market. The church is a chapel of eafe to a neigh- bouring village, called Miftley. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and an annual fair on the fifteenth of June, for toys. We now returned to the fouthern parts of the county, and firft vifited the town of Rochford, fituated on a frnall ftream that falls into a river called the Crowch, forty miles from London. It gives its name to the hundred in which it lies, and has an alms-houfe, founded and endowed by lord Rich. To the ftatutes of this alms-houfe are fubject fix other houfes built by the earl of Warwick, for five men and one woman, who receive each of them three fhillings and fix-pence a week, a gown at Chriftmas, to the value of a guinea, and two loads of wood annually, out of the earl's woods. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and two an- nual fairs, viz. Eafter Tuefday, for toys ; and Wed- nefday after the twenty-ninth of September, for whole- fale taylors, gloves, and toys. The church of Prittlewell, a village fouth of Roch- ford, was given to the monaftery of Lewes, a borough town in Suflex, by Robert Fitz-Swain, in the time of Henry II. when it became a priory of Cluniac monks, fubordinate to that great monaftery. It was dedicated to St. Mary, and in the time of king Edward III. made denifon. Here were about feven monks, whofe yearly income was valued, upon the diffolution, at one hundred and fifty -five pounds eleven fhillings and two-pence. Near Rochford, there is a hill called King's Hill, where the lord of the honour of Rayleigh holds a court on the Wednefday morning after Michaelmas, at cock- crowing. This court is called Lawlefs Court ; the fteward and fuitors are obliged to whifper to each other; they are not allowed either fire or candle ; a piece of coal fupplies the place of pen and ink ; and he who owes fervice to the court, and does not attend, forfeits double his rent for every hour. Camden fays, this attendance is a punifhment impofed on the tenants, for having met at the like unfeafonable hour in a confpiracy againft their lord. Rayleigh is an ancient, though fmall town, fituated thirty-five miles from London. It has a court-leet and baron, and many other privileges belonging to it ; but greatly decayed, many of the buildings being gone to ruin, though one broad handfome ftreet is ftill ftanding. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and an annual fair on Trinity-Monday, for horfes and toys. AtHadleigh, not far from Rayleigh, are the remains of an ancient caftle, built foon after theConqueft. Billericay is a fmall market-town, twenty-three miles diftant from London. It is only a chapelry to a parifh called Great Burfted, and has nothing worthy of note. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-fecond of July, for horfes ; and the feven th of October, for moft forts of cattle. At Woodham Ferris, a village north-eaft of Billeri- cay, was firft an hermitage before the year 1 156, and then a priory of black canons, dedicated to St. John the Baptift, built and endowed by Maurice Fitz- Jeffrey of Tiretis, fheriff of Eflex, for the moft part at the charge of king Henry II. who forgave him on this account fe- veral fums of money, which otherwife he muftha've paid into the Exchequer, out of the farms and profits of his bailiwic. This houfe being almoft forfaken, was, about the latter end of the time of king Henry VII. annexed to St. Mary Spittle without Bifhopfgate, London. Ingatftone, or Ingerftone, is a confiderable market- town, fituated on the road to Harwich, twenty-three miles from London. Here is an alms-houfe for twenty poor people, with a chaplain to read fervice to them everyday, founded in the reign of king Henry VIII. by Sir William Petre ; and a church, in which Sir Wil- liam lies buried, under a ftately monument. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and an an- nual fair on the firft of December, for cattle in general. At Blakemore, a village a little way north-weft of Ingatftone, was an hermitage or priory of black canons, I i i i built jg6 E S S built by Adam and Jordan de Samford, and dedicated to St. Laurence, before, or in the beginning of Icing John's reign. This was one of the fmall monaderies which Cardinal Wolfey procured to be diifolved, in order to the endowment of his two colleges at Oxford and Ipf- wich. It was valued at eighty-rive pounds nine (hillings and feven-pence a year ; and upon the Cardinal's at- tainder, was granted in exchange to Waltham Abbey. At Thoby, near Ingatdone, was placed a priory of Audin canons, in the time of king Stephen, by Michael Cap: a, Roife his wife, and William their ton. It was dedicated to St. Mary and St. Leonard, and was fwp- prefied in the feventeenth year of king HerryVIII. when it was worth, in fpiritualities, eighteen pounds thirteen (hillings and four-pence; in temporalities, fifty- fix pounds thirteen (hillings and fix-pence; and in all, feventy-five pounds fix (hillings and ten - pence per annum. Brentwood, or Burntwood, leventeen miles didant from London, is only a hamlet to, or divifion of a parifJi called Southwold cum Brent. It (lands on a hill in the road to Harwich, has good inns, ?nd is a populous place. The county aflizes have been frequently held here, and there are often horfe-races on a neighbouring plain, called Parflow Wood Common. Here is a weeicly market on Thurfday, and an annual fair on the eighteenth of July, for horfes and black catde. At Brookltreet, near Brentwood, there was a free chapel, and an hofpital, confiding of a mafter or war- den, and divers poor le"pers, dedicated to St. John the Baptift, fixed here before the twentieth of Edward I. Chipping-ongar is a fmall market-town, twenty miles diftant from London. Here are two charity-l'chools, one for twenty-fix boys, and the other for twelve girls. Richard Quay, who was protector of England while king Henry II. was in Normandy, built here a caftle •upon an artificial mount, of great height, and furrounded it with a moat and other fortifications : the grcateft part of thefe fortifications are (till to be feen, though the caftle has been pulled down, and a good houfe built in the room of it. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and an annual fair on the thirtieth of September, for toys. Rumford is a confiderable market-town, twelve miles from London. It is a great thoroughfare between that city and Harwich, and moft towns of note in Suffolk and Norfolk. It is governed by a bailiff and wardens, who, though not incorporated, are impowered by patent to hold a court every week, for the trial of civil and criminal caufes. Here is a charity-fchool for fifty boys and twenty girls ; and a church, but it is only a chancel to Horn Church, a neighbouring village. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and an an- nual fair for horfes and black cattle. The lands of Horn Church, near Rumford, with fome other revenues in this neighbourhood, being given to the great hofpital de Monte Jovis, in Savoy, a cell for a prior or mafter, and poor brethren, fubordinate to that foreign houfe, was fettled here, and dedicated to St. Nicholas and St. Barnard. This houfe was, in the time of Richard If. by leave of the Pope and King, bought by William Wickham, bifhop of Winchefter, for his new college at Oxford. Barking is fo called from a ftream of the fame name, upon which it is fituated. It is ten miles diftant from London, and (lands upon a creek where the Barking falls into another ftream called the Roding, about two miles beyond their confluence with the Thames. The town is large, and chiefly inhabited by fifhermen, whofe boats, called Smacks, lie at the mouth of the creek, in the Thames, from whence their fi(h is fent in boats to Bil- lingfgate, the great fifh-market at London. The town is included in one parifh, which is large, and has been much improved by lands, which the rivers Thames, Baiking, and Roding, have left dry. The fmall tithes are computed at above fix hundred pounds a year. It has a church, and two chapels of eafe, one at Ilford, a fmall neighbouring village, and the other on the fide of Epping Foreft. A monaftery of religious virgins, of the order of St. Benedict, was founded here about the year 675, by Er- j £ X. kenwald, fon of Anns, king of the Eaft- Angles, an! afterwards bifhop of London. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. Ethelburgha. The firft abbefs was lifter to the founder. It continued t il the general dif- folution, when its yearly revenues amounted to ei^ht hundred and fixty-two pounds twelve (hillings and five- pence. Adelicaj the abbefs of the Convent in this place, about the year 1190, founded here, upon the road to London, an hofpital, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, for the leprous tenants or fervants of the convent, which confifted of two mafters and thirteen brethren, lepers, two chaplains, and one clerk. It was valued, upon the diffolution, at fixteen pounds thiiteen (hillings and four-pence clear, per annum. Here is a weekly market on Saturdav, and an annual fair on the twenty-fecond of October, tor horfes. Stratford . is a village in the neighbourhood of London, in the parifia of Weftham. It has greatly incrcafed of late years in buildings and inhabitants, every vacancy being in a manner filled up, by the addition of two little new-built hamlets, if they may be thus called, on the foreft fide of the town. Thefe are Maryland Point, and the Gravel Pitts ; one facing the road to Woodford and Epping, and the other that to Ilford; while the hither part, in fpiteof rivers, canals, and marfhy grounds, is almoll joined to Bow. At this village, William of Montfitchet built, in the year 1 1 34, or 1 135, an abbey for monks of the Cifter- tian order, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and All Saints. This houfe being in a low fituation among the marfhes, the religious were obliged to remove to a cell or grange, called Burghfted, near Billericay, to avoid the floods ; but by the care of one of the king Richards, their da- mages were repaired, and they were brought back to Stratford, which was endowed at the diffolution with five hundred and eleven pounds fixteen (hillings and three-pence per annum. In this place Ralph de Stratford, bifhop of London, in the twenty-fixth year of Edward III. obtained the king's licence to found and endow a college or large chauntry of fecular priefts, to be governed by a provoft, within the chapel of St. Paul, in his caftle here. Curious Plants found in Effex, The greateft Englifh Marfh Fox-tail-grafs ; Ahpe- curos maxima Anglica paladofa, Pari, found in the moid ditches near the river T hames. Smooth-headed Baftard Poppy ; Argemone capitulo lon~ giore glabro, Morifon; found near Baiking. Jagged Sea-Orrache ; Atriplex maritima /adnata, C. B. found on the fandy fhores in M.rfey-ifland, and elfe- where. The narrow and ferrated leaved Sea-orache ; Atriplex angu/iifolia maritima dentata, Mor. found at Maldon by the river, and on the banks of the marfhe^ The lead Hares-ear; Auricula leporis minima, J. B. found at Maldon, in the marlhes by the river-fide. The greater Periwinkle ; Clematis Daphnoides major y C. B. found near Colcheder. Periwinkle ; Clematis Daphnoides minor, J. B. found be- tween Wittham and Kelvedon, in the hedges and bufhes. Eoglifh, or common Sea-fcurvy-grafs ; Cochlear ia folio finuato, C. B. It grows in great plenty in the marfhes about Maldon. Saffron ; Crocus, f. B. Planted and cultivated in the fields about Walden. Marfli-thread ; Conferva paluflris Anglica ; found in the marfh-ditches near Maldon, and elfewhere. The leffer green-leaved Hound's-tongue ; Cynoglofa ' folio virenti, J. B. found between Wittham and Kel- vedon. Millet Cyperus-grafs ; Cyperus gramineus, J. B. found by Bocking river, at the corn-mill below the town. Round- rooten Baftard Cyperus; Cyperus rotundas, litoreus inodorus, 'J. B. found plentifully near Maldon. Englifh Cow Sea-heath ; Erica maritima Anglica fu- pina, Park, found on the fandy banks between Hey- bridge and Goldhanger. Mountaia ESSEX. Mountain Oat-grafs, with a fingle fpike and reflected awns ; Gramen Avenaceum montanum, /pica /implicit ariflis recurvis ; found upon Bartlow hills, on the edge of Cam- bi-idgelhire. Long-rooted Sea-dogs-grafs, with a foliaceous ear ; Gramen caninum marithnum /pica foliacea, C> B. found on the fhore in Merfey-ifland, near Colchefter. Square-eared crefted grafs ; Gramen erijiatum quadra- turn; found at Notley, among corn. Herb Paris, or True-love ; Herba Paris ; found in Chaulkney-wood, feven miles from Colchefter. Roua;h Hawlcweed, fmelling like Caftor ; Hieraciurri caflorei adore monfpelienfium ; found in great plenty near Hanfield. Englifh Sea-hard Rufh ; Juncus acutus marithnus An- glicus, Park. Grows in the marfhy grounds about Mal- don, in great abundance. Dittander, Pepperwort; Lapidium latifolium, G. P>. Met with on the caufeway leading to Hith-bridge, at Colchefter. The great wild Lathyrus, or everlafting Peafe ; La- thyri majoris /pedes fiore rubente, J. B. found in the hedges between Caftle-Campes and Partlow. Rough-codded Chickeling ; Lathyrus Jiliqua hirfuta, J. B. found in the fields near Hockley and Ralegh. Little annual Corn-campion with a fmall bluifti flower; Lychnis fyheftris annua fegetum fiore dilate rubente, Monfp. found in the corn-fields near Colchefter. Spear-mint, with a rugged leaf and ftrong fcent ; Mentha anguflifolia fpicata glabra, folio rugofiore, odore graviore ; found in two or three places near Bocking- river. Water-mint with a groffer fpike ; Mentaftri aquatici genus hirfuturn, fpica latiore, J. B. This is alio found near Bocking river. Horfe-mint, or round-leaved Wild-mint ; Mentaffrum, feu mentha fylvejlris rotundior e folio, C. B. found in plenty at Great Yeldham. Long-leaved Horfe-mint ; Mentha fylveflris folio lon- giore, C. B. found likewife at Great Yeldham. Common Hogs-fennel ; Peucadanum vulgar e, Ger. found in a wood near Walton. The yellow fweet, or Mufk Orchis; Orchis odorata tfwfchata, C. B. found in the fields near Wair-field-hall. Star-headed Water-plantain; Plantago aquatica ftel- lata, C. B. found in the ponds near Rumford. Treacle-muftard , Thlafpi Diofcoridis, Ger. found plentifully in the fields near Wormingford. Narrow-leaved Wild-creffe ; Thlafpi anguft 'folium, f. B. found in many places, particularly near Maldon. The fmall fmooth -leaved Lime, or Linden-tree ; Tilia folio minore, f. B- found frequently in the hedges in various parts of the county. Teafel-headed Trefoil; Trifolium ftellatum glabrum, Ger. found in plenty near Little Holland, in Tendring hundred. Eringo, or Sea-holly ; Rryngium marinum, Ger. found in plenty on the fea-fhore in many parts of the county, efpecially near Colchefter. Common Thorow-wax ; Perfoliata vulgaris, Ger. found among the corn in various parts of the county. Creeping Tormentil, with deeply indented leaves j Tormcntilla reptans alata, Plot) found in fome paftures near Braintree. The greateft Marfh-tree Sow-thiftle ; Sonchus arbo- refcens alter, Ger. found oil the banks of the Thames, near Blackball. / Black Currans, or Squinancy-berries ; Ribes nigrum, J. B. found by the river's fide near Hoppet-bridge, irt the neighbourhood of Braintree. Remarks on the Sea-Coast of Effcx. A great variety of fands and fhoals lie in the mouth of the Thames below the Nore, and which are laid down in the fea-chart5 of this coaft. The firft navigahle creek is that of Barking, where a great number of fifhing- fmacks, and other fmall craft, often ride in fafety ; but there is not depth of water fufficient for fhips of burden. The Swatch at Leigh is alfo frequented by fmall veffels, but has not water fufficient for large fhips, the water not being above three feet deep at low water, at the mouth of the Swatch. From the eaftern extremity of Leigh Swatch, a large fand, called the Black-tail, moots oft" to a confiderable diftance from the fhore. On this fand feveral buoys are placed by the corporation of Trinity- houfe, for the fafety of fhips paffing up and down the Thames. Great part of the Black-tail is dry at low water. The mouth of Crouch river has alfo water fufficient for fmall veffels, but is little frequented, from the num- ber of fands that lie near it. The Blackwater is much frequented, there being a confiderable trade to Maldon, which is fituated on the weftern bank, near the head of this branch of the fea. But there is fome danger from two fands, one on the eaft, and the other on the weft fide ; the tide of ebb fetting on the former, called the Eddie ; and the tide of flood upon the latter, ftiled the Knowl. The mouth of the Coin, which is navigable for fhips of confiderable burden, is entered by the fame channel between the above fands. It is a good harbour, and there is no other danger but the above fands. The mouth of the rivers Stow and Orwell, on the fouth fide of which Harwich is fituated, forms a good harbour, there being near five fathoms water, and a broad open channel. The road before the harbour, called the Rolling Ground, is very capacious, and capable of hold- ing a large fleet of fhips. Members of Parliament for this County. The county of EfTex fends eight members to parlia- ment, two knights of the fhire for the county, two bur- gefTes for the town of Colchefter, two for Harwich, and! two for Maldon. SUFFOLK. [ 308 1 • f j ^-v/i: Eb (i SUFFOLK. THE county of Suffolk is bounded by the German Ocean on the eaft ; Cambridgefhire, on the weft ; by the river Stour, which feparates it from Effex, on the fouth ; and by the rivers Oufe the Lefs, and Waveney, which parts it from Norfolk, on the north. It extends in length, from eaft to weft, forty-eight miles ; from north to fouth, twenty-four miles ; and is one hundred and fifty-fix miles in circumference. Stow-market, a confiderable market-town, ftands in the centre of the county, at the diftance of feventy-three miles north-eaft from London. RIVERS. This county is well watered with feveral rivers, the prmcipal of which are, Oufe the Lcfs, the Waveney, the Stour, the Deben, the Orwel, the Aid, and the Blith. The fprings and courfes of the Smaller Oufe, and the Waveney, will be defcribed in our account of Norfolk ; and the Stour has been reckoned among the rivers of Effex. The Deben rifes near Mendlefham, a market-town ; and running fouth-eaft, and paffing by Debenham and Woodbridge, two other market-towns of this county, falls into the German fea eleven miles fouth-eaft of Woodbridge. The river Orwel, or Gipping, rifes not far from Mindlefham ; and running fouth-eaft, and aVmoft pa- rallel to the Deben, paffes by Tpfwich, a confiderable borough town, to which it is navigable by great (hips ; and at the diftance of ten miles from which, itdifcharges itfelf into the German Ocean, together with the Stour, both rivers forming one large mouth or aeftuary. The Orwel does not flow much higher than Ipfwich, but there the tide generally rifes twelve feet, though, at low water, the harbour is almoft dry. The river Aid rifes near Framlingham, a borough town of this county ; and running fouth-eaft, and paffing by Aldborough and Orford, two borough towns, falls into the German fea a few miles from Orford. The Blith rifes near Halefworth, a market-town ; and running almoft direftly eaftward, falls into the Ger- man fea at Southwold, another marlcet-town. Other lefs confiderable rivers of this county are, the Ore, the Birdon, and the Bourn, or Lark. Remarks en the Inland Navigation of Suffolk. The river Stour is made navigable from Manningtree to Sudbury, and is of very great advantage to the county. Veffels of confiderable burden come up to Manningtree, from whence the goods are lent up to Sudbury in barges. The fmall river Berton might, with very little ex- pence, be made navigable to Hadley, and could not fail of proving advantageous to that part of the county. The river Orwel is navigable, for fhips of very con- fiderable burden, to Ipfwich, where the tide rifes to near fifteen feet on a fpring-tide; but what is very re- markable, the river is not navigable half a mile above the town for fmall boats, nor does the tide flow much higher. The Deben is navigable to Woodbridge for fhips of very confiderable burden; and boats pafs much higher ; but there is no artificial navigation, though the river is very capable of it. The river Aid is navigable to a confiderable diftance from its mouth, for fmall vciTels ; and the town of Ald- borough has a quay on its eaftern bank. But there is no artificial navigation, though it might be executed at a fmall expence. The Waveny is navigable to a very confiderable diftance from its mouth ; but as this river is the boundary between Suffolk and Norfolk, we (hall defcribe its navi- gation in our account of the latter. And with regard to the feveral harbours, and other particulars of that kind, a further account will be given of them in our remarks on the fea-coafts of Suffolk. Air, Soil, and natural Productions. The air of this county is pure, pleafant, and healthy, even near the fea-lhore ; becaufe that being generally fandy and fhelly, ftioots off the fea, and prevents ftag- nating water and ftinking mud. The foil of the county of Suffolk is different in dif- ferent parts of it. The eaftern parts bordering on the fea, are fandy, and full of heaths, but yield abundance of rye, peafe, and hemp, and feed vaft flocks of fheep. The middle part of the county, which is called High Suffolk, or the Woodlands, confifts chiefly of deep clay and marie, and produces wood, and good pafture, that feeds great numbers of cattle. The parts bordering en Effex and Cambridge likewife afford -excellent pafture, and abound with corn, ail except a fmall tra£t towards Newmarket, in Cambridgefhire, which is for the moft part a green heath. It is faid, that the feeding caltle and fheep on turnips, was firft praclifed in Suffolk. The milk of this county is reckoned the beft in Eng- land. It has been long obferved, that the Suffolk cheefe is greatly impoveriftied to enrich the Suffolk butter. It is, however, found, that the cheefe of this county is very proper for long voyages, being preferved by its drynefs; but the butter that is made here in great quantities, and fent to all parts of England, is not to be equalled. It is obferved, that more turkies are bred in this county, and that part of Norfolk which borders upon it, than in all the reft of England ; London, and the counties round it, being fupplied chiefly with thofe birds from hence. Fuel is very plenty in this county ; High Suffolk af- fording wood in great abundance ; and Low Suffolk, or that part of the county which runs along the fea fide, being conftantly fupplied with coals from Newcaftle. Remarks on the Husbandry of Suffolk. In the neighbuorhood of Stoak and Thetford, a vaft quantity of land lies entirely uncultivated, which feems furprifing in a country where marie is to be found in many places, though no ufe is made of if. The land- lord of the Crown at Stoak has an acre of burnet, which he fowed broad-caft, kept it perfectly clean from weeds a year, at the expence of above two guineas; but it has anfwered greatly, for it has every year yielded a great quantity of hay, befides luxuriant food, fo early as the month of February, for many horfes. It is a regular crop, and appears to grow very quick. In the neighbourhood of Thetford is an improvement greatly worth feeing; it is a complete farm, entirely gained from the wafte, for it was only an old fheep-walk. One of the beft farmers in England hired it, and has converted, by means of marie, a vaft tract of unculti- vated wild into a profitable arable farm: his fon at pre- fent enjoys the leafe. The foil is very fandy, but marie and clay have rendered it fertile, infomuch, that in years not remarkably dry, he raifes as fine crops of rye, cole- feed, and oats, as land of five times the rent yields in heavier foils. He has fown likewife fome hundreds of acres with fainfoyn, which has throve finely, and yielded confiderable crops of hay. This farm confifts of near j two thoufand acres, employs forty-five horfes, nine fervants, SUFFOLK. fervants, and in harveft, fifty in the field. Nine hundred Iheep, and twenty-four cows kept : and all this on a tract of land, which, feven years ago, was the habitation of nothing but a flock of fheep, not more confiderable than what is now kept on the remaining fheep-walk and the aitificial rjrafles. We fhould likewife remark, that the marie dug on this farm has proved, that it is not only the fat foapy kind which is of great benefit ; for this is in general a hard chalky fubftancc, much mixed with extraneous kinds of earth, and to appearance a very bad fort. It was afTerted by many farmers, that it would do no good, but the event has turned out very different. The clay, however, is allowed by all to be exceeding good. The duke of Grafton's feat at Eufton is but three miles from this farm ; the park and plantations are well Worth viewing : they are very extenfive, and fketched with great tafte. The road to Bury lies, for fome miles, over a wild heath, over-run with bufhes, whins, and brakes, the wild luxuriance of whofe growth difplays evidently enough how greatly it would anfwer to break it up, and convert it into arable farms ; for a foil that has ftrength enough to throw out fuch vigoroufly growing weeds, would, if cultivated, produce corn in plenty: add to this, there is aflrutum of marie under the whole country. The country round Bury, towards London, is good, well wooded, and not a dead flat. The road to Sto- market lies through a foil indifferently cultivated ; but about a mile from the town, it paffes through a newly inclofed farm belonging to John Symonds, Efq; which is done in a very neat manner. The hedges are all of white thorn, and the banks regularly plained with fe- veral forts of timber trees; the gates remarkably good, and all painted. From this farm, which is rented by Mr. Denton, we met with nothing worth obferving, until we reached Toftock, a village fix miles from Bury, in which there is a farm cultivated in a very mafferly manner, by a gentleman who lives at Bury ; Mr. Orbel Ray the owner. There is nothing above mediocrity in the hufbandry of the neighbouring farmers ; but this gentleman has improved upon their practice greatly. His foil is a light gravel. The firft thing he did with it, was to dig and fpread an hundred loads of loam and clay over all his arable fields ; and then throw them into a regular courfe of crops, viz. I. turnips; 2. barley; 3. clover; 4. wheat; and raifes exceeding fine crops of each. He ploughs four, five, and fix times, for turnips ; har- rows exceeding fine, and fows broadcaft with a machine, which he finds from experience, fheds the feeds infinitely more regular than the niceft hand. In his practice of the turnip hufbandry, he has found, that the feed never fails for want of rain, when fown pail four o'clock in the afternoon. He hoes the plants out twice, applies them to the flail-feeding of beafls, for which purpofe he has built very convenient fheds ; and reckons the mean va- lue of them per acre to be two pounds ten ihillings. He gives the turnip land three earths for barley and oats, and gets very clean crops of five, five and a half, fix, and even feven quarters per acre. The fucceeding crop of clover he generally mows twice for hay, and values the crop, on a medium, at two pounds ten fhillings per acre. The clover lay he breaks up with one earth, the firft year, and harrows in wheat ; and of this grain he gets, on a medium, four and a half, or five quarters per acre. Thefe crops are all very confiderable ; however, we fhould obferve, that befides the above-mentioned claying, he everv year manures all his turnip-land, at the rate of .twelve, fifteen, or twenty loads per acre of farm-yard dung, which he likewife manages in a very fenfible manner. About October, he carries in and fpreads equally over his yard, two hundred loads of moulds, generally loam : upon thefe he fodders all his beafls with the flraw of the crop, and the clover hay, by which means all the urine of the cattle is foaked up, and the gutters of the ftables and ox-flalls are all laid into it. When the winter is over, he ftirs the whole up together, very carefully mixing it, when it is in good order for 33 the land. He generally doubles the quantity brought in. The expences of this method appear, at firft fight, to be high, but are not in reality ; for it is a common one to carry out the dung, and mix it up with turf before it is fpread. Now, in point of labour, there is no difference. Was chalk, marie, or turf, ufed inftead of loam, it would be an infinite improvement. This gentleman has two experiments of the modern kind, which gave us much pleafure ; an acre of lucerne, and four of Timothy-grafs. The firft is in drills, two feet afunder. It was fown laft fpring two years, cut three times laft year ; and we found it cutting for the firft time this year, an exceeding fine crop, above two feet high. We enquired particularly about the quantity of food it yielded, and found that the exacteft calculation, from what was already eat by four cows feeding upon it, was, that it would laft them five weeks. The bailey told us, that, in his opinion, it would conftantly through the fummer maintain two cows ; if fo, the value of it is confiderable, and greatly exceeds clover. From Toftock we cut acrofs the country to Laven- ham, by a winding courfe through Monks Bradfield, the Welnethams and Bradfield Combuft. We walked over the improvements of the Rev. Mr. Lord, rector of Great Welnetham, who has, by means of hollow ditch- ing, and claying, converted an indifferent woodcock brick-earth foil, into a moft fertile one ; infomuch, that he has more than once raifed ten quarters of barley and oats upon an acre, and five and a half of wheat, which are vaft crops. One ftriking particular in his method, is letting his clover lie three years, which, in a ftrong foil, is rather uncommon, but we believe a good practice. Before we leave the neighbourhood of Bury, we muft obferve, that we never met with any place around which the farmers had fuch a fpirit of purchafing manures : very ordinary forts fell at Bury at two fhillings and fix- pence, and three fhillings a waggon-load of eighty bu- fhels. We faw all round the town, in different places, heaps of purchafed manures. PRICE OF LABOUR. In winter, one fhilling, and fmall-beer. In fpring to harveft, one fhilling and two-pence, and beer. In harveft, one milling and eight-pence, and beef. Reaping wheat, from four to five fhillings per acre. Mowing fpring-corn, one fhilling and two-pence ditto. '■- grafs, one fhilling and three-pence, and one fhilling and four-pence. Hoeing turnips, four fhillings the firft time, and two fhillings and fix-pence the fecond. — — — beans, fix fhillings the firft, and three fhillings the fecond time. Threfhing wheat, two fhillings a quarter. ' barley and oats, one fhilling. — > clover feed, five fhillings a bufhel. Their courfe of crops is, r. turnips; 2. barley; 3. clover ; 4. wheat ; 5. barley or oats. And, 1. fal- low; 2. wheat; 3. oats, or barley. They plough four or five times for turnips, harrow fine, and ufe them for all forts of cattle. For barley they ftir thrice, fow three or four bufhels per acre, and reckon a mean crop at three quarters and a half. Their clover they feed with all fovts of cattle, and particularly hogs, which we men- tion as a cuftom not very common. They plough up their clover lays, and harrow in wheat on one earth, fow two bufhels, and reckon two quarters and a half the medium of their crops. White oats they manage the fame as barley ; but for black, they plough but once, fow four bufhels of each fort, and confider four quarters the mean produce. When they fow beans, which is an irregular crop with them, they p'ough ' twice, fow two bufhels after the plough, on ridge-work ; fo that they come up in double rows on the top of the ridge; hoe them twice, and four quarters the mean produce. For peafe they plough but once, fow two bufhels, and reckon the medium at two quarters and a half. Their foil is in general a red loam, called here a brick-earth, and loofe ; with fome fields of clay, others of light gravel ; the K k k k mean S U F F O L K. mean rent is about twelve fhil'.ings an acre. Farms ra- ther fmall; fiom twenty to one hundred and fifty pounds, with a few of two hundred pounds. As to the general ceconomy and management, the following is a fketch of one : two hundred and fifty acres. 80 of them grafs. 10 horfes. 2 men. 2 boys. 5 labourers. 25 cows. 60 fheep. They feldom ufe above tv/o horfes in a plough, and always do an acre a day in their ftiffeft fields. Borough, and Market Towns, &c. We entered this county at Sudbury, the Saxon name for Southborough, fuppoled to have been formerly the chief town in the county. It is thought to have been thus called from its fituation in refpecl: of Norwich. Sudbury is diftant from London fifty-four miles, and is an ancient corporation, which has fent members to parliament ever fince the reign of Edward IV. It is go- verned by a mayor, a recorder, feven aldermen, a town- clerk, a bailiff, twenty-four common-councilmen, and two ferjeants at mace. This town (lands upon the bank of the river Stour, by which it is almoft furroundcd, and over which it has a handfome bridge. The buildings in general are pretty good, but the ftreets being unpaved, are very dirty in bad weather. Here are three handfome large churches ; and the town carries on a good trade in perpetuanas, fayes, and ferges. Simon Theobald, furnamed Sudbury, archbifhop of Canterbury, tranflated thither from London, in the year 1375, was a native of this town. He was murdered at the mitigation of John Ball, a feditious and fanatical preacher in Wat Tyler's rebellion. He was a prelate of exceeding good character, both for learning and charity. The upper end of St. Gregory's church at Sudbury was built by him, where his head is ftill fhewn, which was, not long fince, entire, and covered with the flefh and fkin dried by art: the mouth was wide open, occafioned by convulfions through the hard death he died, having fuffered eight blows before his head was cut off". Here was a monaftery, dedicated to St. Gregory, be- fore the year 970, which in 1375 was converted into a college for fix fecular priefts, one of whom was to be warden or mafter. This college was founded by the above-mentioned Simon de Sudbury, and John de Sud- bury, his brother, and was endowed, upon the fuppref- fion, with one hundred and twenty-two pounds eighteen fhillings and three-pence per annum. Amicia, countefs of Clare, in the time of king John, founded an hofpital in this town, dedicated to Jefus Chrift and the Virgin Mary. Here was alfo a priory of Dominican friars, founded by Baldwin de Shipling, in the time of K. Edward I. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twelfth of March, and the tenth of July, both for toys. Near this place there was a church or chapel, dedi- cated to St. Bartholomew, which Walfrie, mafter of the mint to king Henry II. gave to the abbey of Weftmin- fter ; and then a priory of Benedictine monks was fettled in this church, fubordinate to Weftminfter Abbey. At Bures, upon the Stour, near this town, there is a church, which had a fpire, and a ring of bells ; but in 5733, not on ty tne fy' re was burnt by lightning, but the bells were melted. Milford, near Sudbury, is a remarkable pleafant vil- lage, and one of the largeft, perhaps, in England, be- ing near a mile in length. There were formerly two chauntries here. The church, which ftands at the north end of the town, is a very beautiful edifice ; on the outfide of it are thefe words: " Pray for the fouls of John Clopton, and Richard Boteler, of whofe goods this church was built." Several of the ancient family of Clopton are buried here. This town has given two lord mayors to London, Sir John A'lilbourn, draper, in 1521 ; and Sir Roger Martin, mercer, in 1567. This village is well inhabited ; the houfes are in general handfome, and the inns remarkably good. In the year 1739, one Charles Drew was executed here for the horrid murder of his own father, an attorney of good fortune. Ipfwich, the next town we vifited, is fituated on the river Gipping, fixty-eight miles from London, and had charters and a mint as early as the reign of king John. It is governed, under a charter of king Charles II. by two bailiffs, a recorder, twelve postmen, of whom the bailiffs are two, a town-clerk, two chamberlains, two coroners, and twenty-four common-councilmen; and the bailiffs, and four of the portmen, are juftices of the peace. This town enjoys feveral confiderable privileges, as the palling of fines, and recoveries, trying caufes, both civil and criminal, and even holds pleas of the Crown. The magiftrates appoint the affize of wine, bread and beer. No freeman can be compelled to ferve on juries out of the town, or bear any office for the king, except that of fheriff for the county. The corporation has an admiralty jurifdiclion, and is entitled to all waifs, ftrays, and all goods caft On fhore within that jurifdidtion, which extends on the Effex coaft beyond Harwich, and includes all the coaft of Suffolk. Ipfwich is a neat, well-built, populous town, fituated upon the north bank of the river Orwel, or Gipping, in form of a half moon. It is upwards of a mile in length, and about a mile in breadth : the ftreets are large, and the houfes in general built after the ancient fafhion. It formerly had twenty-one parifh-churches, which are now reduced to twelve ; but there are two chapels in the corporation liberty, befides meeting-houfes. Here is a free-fchool, with a good library, and three charity- fchools, in two of which are feventy boys, and in the third forty girls. Here alfo is a work-houfe, and two hofpitals, one for lunatics, called Chrift's Hofpital ; and another for poor old men and women, founded by Mr. Henry Tool y in 1556 ; befides feveral alms-houfes, and a charitable foundation for the relief of the widows and orphans of poor clergymen, fet on foot in the year 1704. This town has a fhire-hall for the county feffionsj and in one part of an ancient monaftery, are held the quarter-feflions for the Ipfwich divifion, and another part of the fame monaftery is converted to a gaol. Here is a town-hall, a council-chamber, and a large market-place, with a handfome crofs in the centre; and in this market are commodious fhambles, built at the expence of Cardinal Wolfey, who was a butcher's fori in this town. The Cardinal alfo began a college here,, which, though he did not finifh, ftill bears his name. Ipfwich has a convenient key, a cuftom-houfe, and a ftone bridge over the river ; but the harbour was for- merly much more commodious than it is now, for which reafon the number of its mips, as well as its trade by fea, has of late years much decreafed. A great quantity of corn is continually fhipped off here for London, and fometimes for Holland ; and there is a confiderable trade to Greenland from this town. The principal manufactures are linen and woollen cloths. Here are more gentry than in any other town in the county, except St. Edmund's Bury, and this is thought to be one of the beft places in England for fa- milies that have but fmall incomes, becaufe of eafy houfe- rent, good company, and plenty of all forts of pro- vifions. In a parifh-church here dedicated to the Holy Trinity, there was a priory of black canons of the order of St. Auftin, founded before the year 1177 ; and at the fup- preffion, confifted of a prior, and fix or feven canons, who had eftates valued at eighty-eight pounds fix fhil- lings and nine-pence a year. Here was likewife a priory of black canons, founded about the end of the reign of king Henry II. by ■ Lacy, and Alice his wife. It was dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, but fuppreffed in 1527 by Cardinal Wolfey, who, upon the fite of this priory, founded a college for a dean, s u f : dean, twelve fecular canons, eight clerks, and eight chorifters; together with a grammar-fchool, which he defigned as a nurfery to his college at Oxford. This noble foundation was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, but was fcarce brought to perfection before the difgrace of that prelate, upon which it was fuppreffed. As early as the beginning of the reign of king John, here was an hofpital for leprous perfons, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, to which was afterwards annexed an- other houfe of lepers in this town, called St. James's Hofpital. In the eaft part of this town there was a houfe of black friars, faid to have been founded by Henry de Manefby, and others, towards the end of the reign of Henry III. About the middle of the town, there was a houfe of Carmelite friars, foundrd by Sir Thomas de Londham, and others, about the year 1 279. In the well part of this town there was a church and houfe belonging to the Friars Minors, founded by Sir Robert Tiptot, in the time of king Edward I. This place fends two members to parliament, has three weekly markets, held on Wednefday, Friday, and Saturday; and three annual fairs, [viz. the fourth of May, for lean cattle and toys; the twenty- fifth of July, for fruit and toys ; and the twenty-fifth of September, for butter and cheefe. At Walton, upon the coaft, near the mouth of the Orwel, fouth-eaft from Ipfwich, there was a church, dedicated to St. Felix, which was given by Roger Bigod, earl of Norfolk, in the time of William Rufus, to the monaftery of Rochefter in Kent ; and that houfe fettled here a convent of Benedictine monks. Hadley, the next place we vifited, is fixty-four miles diftant from London, and was formerly a corporation, with a mayor, aldermen, common-councilmen, and other officers ; but a quo warranto having been iffued againft its charter, in the reign of king James II. it has not yet been renewed. It is a pretty large, populous town, tolerably well built ; but the fituation being low, the ftreets are generally dirty. Here is a handfome church, with a fpire. The place is ftill famous for a manufacture of woollen cloth, and trades much in corn. There was a monaftery here in the time of the Saxons, but there are no remains of the ftructure at prefent. Here is a weekly market on Monday, and two annual fairs, viz. Whitfun-Monday, for toys ; and the tenth of October, for butter, cheefe, and toys. Neyland is fituated on the bank of the river Stour, fifty-four miles from London. It is a large town, has a charity-fchool for forty boys and twenty girls, and a handfome bridge over the river. Here is a manufacture of fayes and baize. The place was formerly much greater than at prefent Here is a weekly market on Friday, and an annual fair on the fecbrid of October, for horfes, cattle, and toys. AtEdwardfton, north of Neyland, is a church, which was given to the monaftery of Abingdon, in Berkfhire, by Hubert Munchenfi, in the year 11 14, when two or more black monks from thence were placed here; but in Ii6o, the religious of this place were removed to the priory of Coin in Effex, to which this church became appropriated, and continued fo till the diflblution. At Stoke, near Neyland, there was a monaftery of fome note, as early as the middle of the tenth century. Haveril is a fmall place, forty-nine miles diftant from London ; and, by the ruins of a caftle and church ftill to be feen, appears to have been of much greater confe- quence formerly than it is at prefent. Here is a charity- fchool, but nothing elfe worthy of note, except two annual fairs, on the twelfth of May, and the tvventy- fixth of Auguft, both for toys. At Great Thubow, north of Haveril, there was an hofpital founded in the reign of Richard II. and dedi- cated to St. James, with revenues rated, on the fup- preflion, at three pounds per annum. Bildeftone, or Bilftone, is fixty-three miles diflant from London. The ftreets are dirty, and the buildings mean ; but here is a good church, and a large woollen manufactory. o K. 3^ Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and two an- nual fairs, viz. Afh Wednefday, and Holy Thurfday, both for toys. Brethenham, north of Bildeftone, is affirmed by Mr. Camden to be the Combretonium mentioned by Anto- ninus. At Brifet, eaft of Bildeftone, Ralph Fitz Brien, about the year 11 10, erected a priory for canons of the order of St. Auguftine. It was dedicated to St. Leonard, and fubordinate to the monaftery of Nobiliae, in the dutchy of Berry, in Normandy. At Betisford, about half way between Bildeftone and Needbam, there was an hofpital or preccptory of knights of St. John of Jerufalem, as early as the reign of Henry II. which was valued, upon the diflblution, at fifty-three pounds ten (hillings per annum. Lavenham, or Lanham, is fixty-one miles diftant from London, and is governed by fix capital burgeffes, or headboroughs, who are fuch for life, and have the power of chufing inferior officers. This is a pretty large town, pleafantly fituated in a healthy air, on the bank of a branch of the river Berdon, from whence it rifes gradually to the top of a hill. It confiftsof nine ftreets, and in the middle of the town is a church, reckoned the fineft in the county: it was rebuilt in the time of king Henry VI. and has a fteeple orte hundred and thirty-feven feet high, with fix large bells, as good as any in England. The roof of the church is curioufly carved, and the windows finely painted. There are two pews, one belonging to the family of the earl of Oxford, and the other to the family of the Springs, in this county, that are perhaps fuperior in workmanfhip to any of the pews in king Henry VII. 's chapel at Weftminfter ; and here is a ftatue, in brafs, of Mr. Thomas Spring, who gave two hundred pounds to- wards rebuilding the church. This town has a free- fchool, a bridewell, part of which is a work-houfe, where the poor of the parifh are employed in fpinning hemp, flax, and yarn ; and fome other considerable charities. Here is a wooll-hall, from whence many hundred loads of wool are yearly fent to London. This place was formerly very famous for a ftaple trade in blue cloths, and was divided into three guilds or companies, each of which had a hall ; and here are ftill confiderable manufactures of ferges, fhalloons, fayes, fluffs, and fine yarn. At Lavenham, the tenure of land, called Borough Englifh, ftill obtains. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and an annual fair on the tenth of October, for butter and cheefe. At Glemisford, between Lavenham and Clare, there Was a collegiate fociety of priefts, under the government of a dean, as early as the time of Edward the Confeffor. Clare {lands upon the river Stour, at the diftance of fixty-one miles from London ; and is a little, poor, dirty town, with a fine large church, and a manufacture of fayes. Elaric, or Alfric, earl of Clare, who lived in the reign of kings Canute Hardecanute, and Edward, founded in his caftle of Clare a church dedicated to St. John the Baptift, and placed in it feven fecular canons ; which church, with all its prebends and endowments, Gilbert de Clare gave, in 1090, to the monaftery at Bee in Nor- mandy ; and it became a cell of Benedictine monks to that abbey, and fo continued till the year 1 124, when his fon Richard removed the religious of this priory to Stoke, near Clare. Here was a fociety of Friars Heremites, of the order of St. Auftin, before the year 1248. Here is a weekly market on Friday, and two annual fairs, viz. Eafter Tuefday, and the tWenty-fixth of July, both for toys. In digging a grave at Honedon, near Clare, in 1687, there was found a great quantity of Saxon coins. At Denfton, north-weft of Clare, there was a col- lege or chauntry, confiding of a warden, and a certain number of priefts, founded about the fourteenth year of Edward IV. by Sir John Howard, knight, and John Broughton, jun. and endowed at the difiblution with yearly 3 ii S U F F yearly revenues rated at twenty-two pounds eight mil- lings and nine-pence. To Stoke, near Clare, Richard de Clare, earl of Hert- ford, in 1 124, removed the monks of Bee, whom his fa- ther had placed in the caftle of Clare, and built a church for them here, dedicated to St. John the Baptift. This alien priory was afterwards made denifon ; but in 14 15, by means of Edmund Mortimer, carl of March, it was converted into a college for fecular priefts, and main- tained a dean, fix prebendaries, eight vicars, four clerks, fix chorifters, befides officers and lervants, who had re- venues, which, upon the diflblution, were valued at three hundred and twenty-four pounds four fhillings and two- pence per annum. At Chipley, near Clare, there was a fmall priory of Auguftine canons, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which, in 1463, was united to the dean and chapter of the col- lege of Stoke Bury St. Edmund's, St. Edmund's Bury, and com- monly Bury, was originally called St. Edmund's Burgh, from an abbey founded here in honour of St. Edmund, king of the Eaft-Angles, who was not only crowned, but buried in this place, after being martyred by the Danes about the year 1012. This town is feventy-five miles diftant from London, and its abbey was reckoned one of the largeft and richeft in the world. Before the diflblution of monafteries, here were five hofpitals, one college, and above forty churches and chapels, moll of them well endowed. Here was a mint in the reigns of king Edward I. and If. and in that of king John ; and this town has been fa- mous for feveral parliaments or conventions of the ftates. In the reign of king Edward VI. here were three thou- fand houfeholders ; but the town was firft incorporated by king James I. and is governed by an alderman, a re- corder, a town-clerk, a coroner, twelve capital bur- gelTes, and twenty-four common-councilmen, with other officers ; and the county-affizes and quarter- feffions are ufually kept here. St. Edmund's Bury {lands upon the weft fide of the river Bourn or Lark, which, by an acl of parliament in the year 1701, was made navigable from Lynn in Nor- folk, to Farnham, about a mile diftant from that place. It is fo beautifully fituated, has fo good an air, and fo fine a profpecl, that it is called the Montpellier of England. This town, with its fuburbs, extends in length, from north to fouth, one mile and a half j in breadth, a mile and a quarter; and is three miles in cir- cumference. It is walled in, and has five gates, one of which, the Abbey Gate, is ftill a fine monument of that fuperb building. It is divided into five wards, and contains thirty-four ftreets, which are all ftraight, fpa- cious, well paved, and generally cut one another at right angles. There are two good parifh-churches in the fame church-yard ; one dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the other to St. James. St. Mary's church was firft built in the year 1105, and rebuilt in 1430. St. James's was begun in 1500, but not quite finifhed till the Reforma- tion. Both thefe churches are remarkable for their juft fymmetry, beautiful large windows, neat pillars, and noble roofs. Here is a grammar-fchool founded by king Edward VI. and three charity-fchools, one for forty boys, and the other two for fifty girls. Here is a guild hall, a wool-hall, a fhire-houfe, an afTembly-room, and an hofpital or work-houfe, for thirty boys and girls, which was a fynagogue of the Jews, till they were expelled the kingdom in 1 1 79. This place, which is much frequented by the nobility and gentry of the county, has in the middle of the mar- ket-place a fine crofs, with a lanthorn and clock. Spin- ning is almoft the only manufacture in this town. In 1608, a fire broke out in this town, by which fe- veral hundred houfes were burnt down ; and in 1636, it was fo depopulated by a peftilence, that the grafs grew in the ftreets. King Sigebert, about the year 633, quitting his crown, and turning monk, retired into a monaftery which he had founded here. There is no account of the ftate of this monaftery after his death, though it is probable O L K. fome religious perfons continued in it, becaufe in the year 903, the body of St. Edmund the King was tranf- lated from Hoxon, near Eye, where he was murdered by the Danes, to a church here, as to a place of fome note. Soon after this tranflation, the town changed its name, and feveral fecular priefts fettling here, built a new church to the honour of the royal martyr, which was made collegiate in 925, as it is laid by king Athei- ftan. In 1020, king Canute expelled the fecular priefts, and placed here a convent of Benedictine monks, with an abbot, from Holm, in Norfolk, which* afterwards be- came endowed with fo many eftates, royalties, and im- munities, that its revenues, upon the diflblution, were valued at fixteen hundred and fifty-nine pounds thirteen fhillings and eleven-pence per annum. Here was an hofpital, founded about the beginning of the reign of king Stephen, by abbot Anfelm, for the maintenance of aged, infirm, and difeafed priefts, and others. It was dedicated to St. Peter, and was at firft under the management of the almoner of the abbey, but afterwards had a fecuiar prieft, for a mafter, and reve- nues, which, at the fuppreffion, were valued at ten pounds eighteen fhillings and eleven-pence per anuuvt. Without the north gate of this town, abbot Samfon, and the'eonvent, in 11 84, began a new hofpital, which was dedicated to our Saviour, and about the year 1300, maintained feven poor priefts. Without the eaft gate, there was an hofpital, founded by an abbot of Bury, and dedicated to St. Nicholas. It confifted of a mafter and feveral brethren, and was rated, upon the diflblution, at fix pounds nineteen fhil- lings and eleven-pence per annum. About the year 1257, tne g rev fr' ars built a church and office-houfes in the north-weft part of this town, but they were removed hence in 1263, by order of Pope Urban IV. and built a houfe without the town, called the Toll-gate, where they continued till the diflblution. In the beginning of the reign of king Edward L there was an hofpital without the fouth gate of this town, de- dicated to St. John the Evangelifb, and called God's Houfe. In the time of Edward IV. here was a college of priefts. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Wednefday, and an annual fair, the greateft perhaps in England : it begins on St. Matthew's day, and lafts a fortnight, during which time all manner of public diverfions are exhibited. St. Edmund's Bury is generally believed to have been the Villa Fauftini mentioned by Antoninus ; but what this Fauftinus was, does no where appear. At Great Wheltham, near Bury, feveral remains of Roman antiquity have been found, as potfherds and platters of Roman earth, fome of which had inferiptions, urns with coals and afhes in them, bones and horns of cattle, that were offered in facrifice, and a facrificing knife. At Whipfted, fouth of St. Edmund's Bury, there was a monaftery, of which there are no particulars upon record. A little out of the road that leads from Thetford to Bury, lie Lifermere and Ampton, the feats of Baptift Lee and Calthorpe, Efqrs. The two parks join, and the owners, with an harmony very unufual, made a noble ferpentine river through both, and built a large handfome bridge over it at their joint expence, by which means they ornamented their grounds to a degree other- wife impoffible. In Mr. Calthorp's park, the water forms a bend againft a Hope of wood, which has a very noble effect. Upon the whole, the river, confidering it is formed out of a trifling ftream, is one of the fineft waters that can be feen in the grounds of any private gentleman. Mr. Lee has a fhrubbery of about twenty acres, cut out of his park, laid out in a very juft and elegant tafte. The water and flope are particularly beau- tiful ; the former winds through a thick wood, with a very bold fhore, in fome places wide, in others fo nar- row, that the overhanging trees join their boughs acrofs the ftream, and even darken the fcene, and by that mean* produce a charming effect. The banks are every-where uneven \ S U F uneven ; firft wild, rough, and covered with buflies ; then a fine green lawn, laid out in gentle (Wells, inter- fperfed with lcattered trees and fhrubs, to the banks of the water, and feats difpofed with great judgment. Mildenhall, the next place we vifited, is a large po- pulous town, fituated on the Lark, fixty-eight miles from Loiidv.n. The ftreets are fpacious, and the town well built, it has a handfome church, with a lofty fteeple, and a good harbour for boats In 1507, the greateft part of the town was confumed by fire ; but was foon after rebuilt, in a much better manner than before the accident. Here is a weekly market on Friday, and an annual fair on trie tenth of October, for cattle and wool. At Herringfleet, two miles from Mildenhall, there was a priory of black canons, founded, in the beginning of the reign of Henry III. by Roger Fitz-Ofbert, and dedicated to St. Mary and St. Olave. About the time of the difiolution, it was inhabited by five or fix religi- ous, whofe annual revenues amounted to forty-nine pounds eleven {hillings and fix- pence per annum. From Mildenhall we palled on to Ixworth, a fmall town fituated in the high road from London to Yar- mouth, feventy-three miles from London ; but has no- thing remarkable. Here was a priory of black canons, founded by Gilbert Bland, who came into England with William the Conqueror. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and valued, upon the difiolution, at one hundred and fixty-eight pounds nineteen {hillings and fix-pence per annum. Wulpit, fouth of Ixworth, is fuppofed to have been the ancient Sitomagns. Here are large deep trenches, which appear to have been thrown up by the Romans. Stowmarket, the next place we vifited, ftands upon the river Orwel, near the centre of the county, feventy- three miles from London. It has feveral good inns, a fpacious beautiful church, with a fine fteeple, in which are eight tuneable bells ; a manufacture of temmies, and other Norwich fluffs ; and a charity-fchool. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and two an- nual fairs, viz. the tenth of July, for fhop-goods and toys ; and the tenth of Auguft, for fheep and black cattle. At Haughley, north -weft of Stow-market, on a high hill, are the remains of an old caftle, which was called Horn-caftle, and occupied two acres of ground ; but when, or by whom it was built, is unknown. Near Stow-market are two villages, one called (Greet- ing St. Mary, and the other Creeting St. Olave, at each of which there appears to have been a diftincl alien priory of the Benedictine order. The priory of Creet- ing St. Mary was a cell to the abbey of Bernay in Nor- mandy; and that of Creeting St. Olave was fubject to the abbey of Greftein, in the fame country. At Combs, near Stow-market, Theobald de Valoins founded, fome time before the feventh year of Richard I. a nunnery of the order of St. Auguftine, in which, at the time of the difiolution, there were nineteen nuns, who were endowed with a yearly revenue of one hundred and eighty-two pounds nineteen {hillings and three- pence. Here was alfo a collegiate chauntry, confiding of a warden and four fecular priefts, in a chapel dedicated to the annunciation of the Virgin Mary, within the mo- nailery founded in the twenty- firft year of Edward III. by Maud, countefs of Ulfter. The religious continued feven years in this houfe; but finding the place incon- venient on feveral accounts, they were removed to Bruf- card, north-eaft of Frouilingham, where they built a chapel, dedicated to the Annunciation, and proper offices for a warden and priefts. But this college, in the fortieth year of Edward III. was furrendered to the ufe of an abbefs and filters, nuns minoreffes of the order of St. Clare, who continued here till the general fup- preffion of religious houfes, when their yearly revenues were eftimated at fifty-fix pounds two {hillings and a penny. From Stow-market we proceeded to Needham, fituated on the banks of the river Orwel, feventy-five miles from London. It had once a good trade in broad-cloths for 33 F O L K. S i 3 Ruflia, Turkey, and other foreign markets; but it has loft that trade many years, though it has ftill fome con- fiderable dealers, and con lilts of one long wide ftreer, tolerably well built. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and an an- nual fair on the twenty-eighth of October, for toys. South-weft of Needham, is a village called Offtonj which, in the Saxon language, fignifies the town of OlTa ; and here are the ruins of an old caftle, faid to have been built by Offa, king of Mercia. At Great Blakney, lbuth-eaft of Needham, Walter Giffard, earl of Buckingham, in the time of William Rufus, founded an alien priory, fubject to the abbsy of Bee in Norma ndv. The next place we vifited was Mindlefham, a fmall market-town, fituated feventy-fix miles from London. It has a handfome church, but nothing elfe remarkable, except a weekly market on Tuefday, and an annual fair on Holy Thurfday, for cattle. Buddefdale, or Batcfdale, is fituated on the borders of Norfolk, in the road from St. Edmund's Bury to Yar- mouth, eighty-one miles from London. It is a ftraggling, mean, dirty town ; but has a free-fcHool, founded in the reign of queen Elizabeth, by Sir Nicholas Bacon, and endowed with feveral ftholarfhips for ftudents at Cam- bridge. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and an an- nual fair on Holy Thurfday, for cattle a; d toys. At Giflangham, fouth of Buddefdale, there was a houfe or preceptory of the Knights Templars, before the thirty-fourth year of Edward I. Eye, the next town we vifited, is almoft furrounded by the brook, in the road from Ipfwich to Norwich, ninety-two miles from London, it was incorporated by king John, an 1 is governed by two bailiffs, a re- corder, a town-clerk, ten principal burgeffes, and twenty-four common-councilmen. The buildings are mean, and the ftree;s dirty ; but here is a large hand- fome church, and a charity-fchool; The chief manu- factures of this town are bone-lace. There was a priory here of Benedictine monks, founded in the time of William the Conqueror by Ro- bert Mallet, and dedicated to St. Peter. It was at firft a cell to Bernay Abbey in Normandy, but was made denifon by king Richard II. and fo continued till the fuppreffion, when here were ten monks, whofe yearly revenues were rated at one hundred and fixty-four pounds two {hillings and three-pence. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and an annual fair on Whitfun-Monday, for cattle and toys. Without this town there was an hofpital for leprous perfons, founded in the beginning of the reign of Ed- ward III. and dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen. At Redlingfield, near Eye, Manaffes, earl of Ghif- nefs, and Emma his wife, in 11 20, founded a Bene- dictine nunnery, dedicated to St. Andrew, which, about the time of the fuppreffion. had a priorefs and eight nuns, with yearly revenues valued at fixty-feven pounds and a penny. At Wickham Skeyth, fouth-weft of Eye, there was a priory, founded in the reign of king Stephen, by Ro- bert de Saleo Villa, knight, and fubordinate to the abbey of St. John at Colchefter, in EfTex ; but in the next reign, Jordan, the fon of Robert de Saleo Villa, contented that the religious of this place fhould be re- moved to Colchefter. At Wingfield, north-eaft of Eye, there is a parifh- church, in which a college, confifting of a matter and feveral priefts, was founded in 1 36a, by the lady Alianor, relict of Sir John Wingfield, agreeable to the defire and laft will of her hufband. It was dedicated to St. Mary, St. John Baptift, and St. Andrew ; and valued, upon the difiolution, at fixty-nine pounds fouiteen {hillings and five-pence per annum. Debenham, eighty-fix miles from London, has its name from the river Deben, which runs by it. The town Hands upon a riling ground, which keeps it clean. It has a good church, but the houfes in general are meanly built. Here is a charity-fchool, founded by Sir L 11 1 ' Robert 3 i 4 S U F F Robert Hitcham, who, by bis will, provided, th:>t fome of the poor of this pljcc lhoulJ be employed at a wor'ic- houfe in Framlinghani, and that fomeof the poor child- ren fhould be fent to a frcc-fchool in the fame town, in order to be fitted for apprenticefhips, and left ten pounds to be given with each to a mafter. Here is a good mar- ket-place, but the town is not-much frequented, the road to it being extremely bad. Here is a weekly market on Friday, and an annual fair on the twenty-fourth of June, for braziers and toys. Bungay, the next place we vifited, is fituated upon the river Wavcncy, by which it is almoft furrounded, one hundred and eleven miles from London. It is a large, handfome town ; the houfes, in general, are well built, but the ftreets are, for the molt part, unpaved. Here are two parifh-churches, one of which is a good ftrucfure, with a beautiful fteeple ; and a grammar-fchoo), endowed with ten fcholarfhips for Emanuel College in Cambridge. This town has a good market-place, a bridge over the Waveney, and is much, frequented by people from Norfolk. On the firft of March 1689, this whole town, except one little ftreet, was burnt down in the fpace of four hours, and the damage fuftained by this fire was com- puted at near thirty thoufand pounds.' There are ftill to be feen at this place large ruins of a very (trong caftle, built by the family of the Bigods, earls of Norfolk, before the reign of king Stephen. Of this caftle Hugh Bigod, earl of Norfolk in the wars between king Stephen and the emprefs Maud, ufed greatly to boaft. But notwithftanding this confidence in his caftle, the fame earl was foon after compelled to pay king Henry II. a great fum of money, to fave it from being demoliflied. Roger de Glanvil, and the countefs of Gundrcda, h*s lady, in the time of king Henry II. founded a Bene- dictine nunnary here, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. In the time of Edward I. here were a priorefs and fifteen fifters ; but at the diflblution, not above feven fifters, who had a yearly income rated at fixty-two pounds two fhillings and a penny. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fourteenth of May, for horfes and lean cattle ; and the twenty-fifth of September, for hogs and toys. At Mittingham, near Bungay, there was a college for a mafter and eight chaplains, founded in the fixth year of Richard II. by Sir John de Norwich*. It was dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary, and about the time of the diflblution, had a mafter and eleven fellows, with yearly revenues valued at two hundred and two pounds feven fhillings and five-pence. At this place likewife are the remains of a caftle, built by Sir John de Norwich, who died about the be- ginning of the reign of king Richard II. Beccles is fituated on the river Waveney, one hundred and feven miles from London. It is a large, populous town, and the ftreets well paved ; but the buildings mean, and many of them thatched. Here is a large church, and two frec-fchools, well cnd6wed ; one of which is a grammar-fchool, with ten fcholarfhips for Emanuel College in Cambridge, appropriated by Sir- James Leman, in the reign of king James I. A com- mon belongs to this town, of no lels than a thoufand acres. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and three an- nual fairs, viz. Afcenfion-day, the twenty-ninth of June, and the fecond of October, all for horfes and toys. LeftofF, LeyftofF, LeoftofF, or LoweftorF, is a fmall ftraggling town, fituated on a rock which feems to hang over the Tea, one hundred and thirteen miles from Lon- don. This place having been part of the ancient de- mefheof the Crown, has a charter, by. which the inha bitants are exempted from ferving on juries, either at the feffions or the aflizes. About a mile vyeftward of this place, there is a church, and in the town a chapel, for the cafe of the inhabitants, whofe chief bufinefs is fi(h- ing for cod in the North Sea, and for herring, mackare), and fprats, at home. O L IC. Here is a weekly market 011 Wedncfdsy, and .wo an nual fairs, viz. 0.1 May-day, and Michaelmas ■'day, botlt for toys. About ten miles north-weft of LeoftofF, upon the river Waveney, is Burgh Caftle, a fortification built by the Remans to guard the coaft againft the Saxon pirates, and is fuppofed to have been the Gavanonum where the Stablefian horfe had their ftation. There are ftill very confiderablc remains of this caftle (landing ; the eaftem wall continues yet' in its original length, which is fix hundred and fixty feet, and about feventeen or eighteen feet high. On the outfide of this wall are four folid round towers, each about fourteen feet in diameter, and of an equal height with the wall. Thefe towers are joined to the wall, but in fuch a manner, that only a fmall part of the periphery is within it. The remains of the fouthern wall are ftLl three hundred and fixty feet Srt length, and thofe of the north fide are about the fame extent, but the weftern is totally demolifhed. The materials of thefe walls and towers are flints, and Roman and Britifh bricks, each of which is a foot and a half long, and almoft a foot broad. At Flixton, near LeoftofF, there was a nunnery of the order of St. Auftin, founded about the year 1258, by Margery, widow of Bartholomew de Crevk. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. Catharine, and at the time of the diflblution, had a priorefs and fix or fevea nuns, with yearly revenues valued at rw> more than twenty-three pounds four fhillings and a penny. Southwold, the next place we vifited,. is fituated in a peninfula, formed by the river Blith upon the weft, and the fea upon the eaft and fouth, one hundred and five miles from London. It is a corporation, governed bv two bailiffs, and other officers ; and is a pleafant, popu- lous town, ftrong by its fituation, and fortified by a few pieces of cannon. It has a draw-bridge over the river Blith, and a large, ftrong-built church. In 1747, au a£t of parliament paffed for effectually cleaniing 3nd opening the haven of this place, which had been long- choaked up with fand. On the eaft fide of this town is a bay called Solebay, that affords good anchorage, and is (heltered by a promontory about two miles farther fouth, called Eafton-Nefs. On the fouth fide of Eafton-Nefs is an excellent harbour, which, in the Dutch war, was a place of rendezvous for our fleets. The promontory of Eafton-Nefs is by fome thought the moft eafterly point of Britain, but others foppofe it to be LeoftofF. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, viz. Trinity-Monday, and the twenty-fourth of Auguft, both for toys. At Blithborough, upon the river Blith, near South- wold, feveral Roman urns were dug up not many years ago. This is thought to have been a Roman ftation y ■ and in the time of the Saxons, was famous for being- the burying-place of Anna, a Chriftian king of the Eaft Angles, who was (lain in battle by Penda the Mercian. There was alio at this place a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which was given to the abbey of St. Ofyth; in Eflex, by king Henry I. upon which this church be- came a cell to that abbey, and was valued at the diflb- lution, when it had five religious, at forty-eight pounds eight fhillings and ten-pence per annum. Here was a houfe of black friars. At Roydon, near Southwold, there was a priory of Cluniac monks, cell to- The t ford in Norfolk, faid to> have been founded before the year 1 160, by Dondo Afini» fteward to the king's houfehold. It was dedicated, ac- cording to fome writers, to St. Mary ; but to St. Peter and St. Paul, according to others and had yearly reve- nues, on the fuppreflion, reckoned worth thirty pounds nine (hillings and five-pence. Halefworth (lands at the diftance of ninety-feven miles from London, and is an ancient, populous town, with 3 very neat church, and a chaiity-fchool. Here is a large weekly market ouTuefday, famous for vaft quantities of linen yarn, which is fpun in this town and neighbour- hood, and bought up here ; and an annual fair on the eighteenth of October, for Scotch cattle. At Romborough, north-weft of Halefworth, there was a fmall priory of Benedictine monks, founded about the time S U F F 6 L K. rime of the Conqueft, and fobje£ted to the abbey of Holm in Norfolk; but it was given, in the time of Henry I. by Stephen, or his fon Alan, earls of Rich- mond and Britanny, to the abbey of St. Mary, in the city of York. Dunwich is fituated on the coaft of the German ocean, at the diftance of ninety-five miles from London, and is the oldeft town in the county, having been an epifcopal fee in the year 630. It has lent members to parliament ever fince the firft eftablifhmertt of that part of the Eng- lifli conftitution, in the reigri of Edward L and was made a free borough by king John, to whom the bur- geffes gave three hundred merks of filver, befides tert falcons and five gerfalcons for his charter ; an i they moreover gave him two hundred merks, and five hundred eels, for the grant of wrecks. This borough is go- verned by two bailiffs* and was formerly fortified. Here are faid to have been fifty-two churches and monafteries, but all the churches have been fwallowed up by the fea, except one, dedicated to All Saints. This now is a poor place, confifting only of a few wretched cottages ; but it has a charity-fchool, and an hofpital for a mafter, and five poor perfons. Sprats are cured here in the fame manner as herrings at Yarmouth in Norfolk. This place, in the year 630, was made the epifcopal feat for the kingdom of the Eaft-Angles ; and after the divifion of this diocefe in 678, the bifhops of Suffolk continued their refidence here* till the whole kingdom was re-united, under the bimop of Elmham in Norfolk* in the tenth century ; after which the cathedral of this fee became a cell of monks, fubordinate to a monaftery at Eye; but this church, with many other churches and religious houfes in th s place, were, feveral ages ago, fwallowed up by the fea. Here was a priory of Black friars, founded by Sir Roger de Holifh, before the time of king Richard II. and here was alfo a houfe of Grey friars, fuppofed to have been founded by the corporation uf this borough. The Knights Templars formerly had a houfe here, with ahandfome church, called the Temple of our Lady, to which belonged great rents and privileges, and which is fuppofed to have paffed to the Knights Hofpitalers upon the diffolution of the Knights Templars. Dunwich is fuppofed to have been a Roman ftation, from feveral Roman coins which have at different times been found in this place. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and an annual fair on the twenty-fifth of July, for toys. Saxmundham, or Saxlingham, is eighty-fix miles diftant from London, and is a little, obfcure, dirty town, containing nothing worthy of note. It has, however, a weekly market on Thurfda^, and two annual fairs', viz Hojy Thurfday, and the twenty-third of September, both for toys. At Snape, fouth of Saxmundham, William Martel, and Albreda his wife, in 11 55, founded a priory of Be- nedictine monks, from the abbey of St John at Col- chefter. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and con- tinued a cell to the abbey of St. John till the year 1400. It was then made conventual, but fuppreffed by Car- dinal Wolfey in 1524, when its revenues were rated at forty-nine pounds onefhilling and eleven-pence per annum. • At Layfton, eaft of Saxmundham, there was an abbey of Premonftratenfian canons, built and endowed by Ra- nulph de Glanvil, founder of Butley priory, in 1182. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and at the time of the diffolution had fourteen or fifteen monks, with yearly revenues rated at one hundred and eighty-one pounds feventeen (hillings and a penny. Framlingham is a name of Saxon original, and figni- fies a Habitation of Strangers. It is eighty-fix miles diftant from London, and is a large, ancient town, plea- fantly fituated, though but indifferently built, upon a clay hill, in a fru tful foil, and a healthy air. There is a large ftateiy church, built of black flint, with a fteeple upwards of a hundred feet high ; and a free-fchool, founded by Sir Robert Hitcham, for forty boys, who a e fitted for apprenticefhips, and then put out with ten pounds each. Here alfo are two hofpitais, one founded in 1654 by the fame Sir Robert Hitcham, and the other about the year 1704, by the truftees of Mr. Mills, an Anabaptift minifter, for eight poor perfons, who have two {hillings and fix-pence a week each, an outer gar- ment once a y;ar, and thirty fhillings a-piece for firing. This town has a very handfcme and fpacious market- place. It is univerfally agreed, that Framlingham is a town of Britifh original, which was conquered by the Ro- mans, after the defeat of Boadicea, the famous Britifli Amazon. Here are ftill to be feeh noble remains of a caftle, fuppofed to have been built by fome king of the Eaft-Angles. It was a large* beautiful fabric, and very ftrong: the walls are ftill ftanding, and are forty-four feet high, and eight feet thick ; they fupport thirteen towers, each of which are fourteen feet high above the walls, and two of them are watch-towers. The area inclofed by the walls of this caftle, contains above an acre and a rod of land. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. Whitfun-Monday, and Michaelmas-day, for millinery goods, cloaths', and toys. At Sibton, north-eaft of Framlingham, William de Cheney, in 1 149, founded an abbey for Ciftertian monks* dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed at the dif- folution with two hundred and fifty pounds fifteen fhil- lings and feven-pence^r annum. At the gate of the abbey there was an hofpital. Aldborough is generally fuppofed to have taken its name from the river Aid, upon the bank of which it ftands, though fome think that Aldborough is a cor- ruption of Oldborough. This town is diftant eighty-eight miles from London, and is an ancient corporation, governed by two bailiffs, twelve capital burgefles, and twenty-four inferior mem- bers. It is pleafantly fituated in a peninfula, called Slanghden Valley, formed by the river on the weft fide: and the fea on the eaft and fouth; - It confifts chiefly of two ftreets near a mile long, running parallel to each other, the fea having lately fwallowed up a third ftreet, that was parallel to the other two. The ftreets arc clean, but the buildings in general very mean. Here is, however, a handfome church upon a hill, on the weft fide of tbe town, and a good key on the river Aid, with warehoufes : the harbour is defended by fome pieces of cannon $ and a good trade is carried on in fifii, particu- larly fprats, foles, and lobfters. From this town there is a great export ot corn, and a trade to Newcaftle upon Tyne for coals. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the firft of March, and the third of May, both for toys. Orford derives its name from a ford over the river Ore, near the mou h of which it ftands. It is eighty-eight miles diftant from London, was incorporated by king Henry III. and is governed by a mayor, eighteen port- men, twelve chief burgeffes, a recorder, a town-clerk* and two ferjeants at mace. It was once a large, popu- lous town, with a caftle, of which there are ftill fome towers remaining, that ferve as land-marks to veffels at fea. Here is a church ; and on a promontory, not far from the town, called Orfordnefs* there is a light-houfe' for the direction of feamen failing near the co^ft ; and this promontory is a great fhelter to fhips when a north- eaft wind blows hard upon the fhoiv. Orford formerly had a good harbour, but the fea has withdrawn from it many years, and the place has proportionably decayed. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Monday, and an annual fair onMid- fummer-day, for toys. Among the curiofities of this county may be reckoned the periodical rendezvous of fwallows algng this coaft, from Orfordnefs to Yarmouth ; for, about the end of fummer, an incredible number of thefe birds gather here in a body, where they wait the firft northerly wind to tranfport themfelves out of Britain, probably to fome warmer climate. They are fometimes wind-bound for feveral days, but it no tooner blows fair, than they all take wing together, and never appear till the following fprirlg, when they arrive here, in vaft 'bodies, and from hence S U F F O L K. hence difti ibute thcmfelves all over Britain. It it. faid, that in the time of" king Henry I. a fifh was caught in the fca near Orfordnefs, by the fifhermen's nets, which, in fliape, exactly refembled a human body, but was rough and hairy, with a picked beard. It was brought alive on fhore, but foon after efcaped to fea again, and was never after heard of. At Bulley, near Orford, Ranulph de Glanvil, judi- ciary of England, founded, in 1171, a priory of Black canons, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, wi h revenues, which, at the diffolution, amounted to three hundred and eighteen pounds le-. en teen fhillings and three-pence pet- annum. Woodbridge ftands upon the weft bank of the Deben, at the diilance of feventy-five miles from London. Its extent is about half a mile every way. The chief ftreets are well built and paved, but the reft are dirty, and the houfesold and low. It has a fine church with a fteeple, a good grammar-fchool, and an alms-houfe, founded in 1587 by Thomas Scckford, mafter of the Requefts, for thirteen poor men, and three women. Here is a market- place, in the middle of which is a handfome {hire-hall, where the quarter-feflions are held for a diftricT: of this county, called the Liberty of Etheldred and Audrey ; and under the {hire-hall is a corn-crofs. The river is navigable hither for fhips of confiderable burthen, and this town has four or five docks for building {hips, with commodious quays and warehoufes. It carries on a good trade to London, Newcaftle upon Tyne, and Holland, in butter, cheefe, fait, and plank; and the Woodbridge pinks and hoys go to and from London once every week. At Woodbridge there was a fmall priory of five or fix black canons, founded by one Ernaldus Ruffus, about the end of the twelfth century. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and on the fuppreflion, had yearly reve- nues rated at fifty pounds three {hillings and live-pence. This town has a weekly market on Wednefday, and two annual fairs, viz. Lady-day, and the twenty-firft of September, both for toys. At Letheringham, north-call: of Woodbridge, a fmall priory of three or four black canons was founded by William de Bodeville. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was a cell to the monaftery of St. Peter at Ipf- wich, and had an income rated, upon the fuppreflion, at twenty-fix pounds eighteen {hillings and five-pence per annum. At another place, called Alenfborne, now depopu- lated, there was a fmall priory of Auguftine canons, dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; and before the general fuppreflion, annexed and appropriated to the monaftery at Woodbridge. Rendkfham, north-eaft of Woodbridge, was a royal feat in the Saxon times ; and here Redwald, king of the Eaft-Angles, is faid to have kept his court. Curious Plants found in Suffolk. Wild Sothernwood, or fine-leaved Mugwort ; Abro- tnnum campeftre, C. B. found at a place called Elden, in Suffolk, twelve miles beyond Newmarket. Yellow-berried Holly ; Agrifolium baceis luteis ; found at Wilton, in this county, not far from Buers. Woolly-headed Thiftle ; Carduus tomentofus corona fratrum, Park ; found in great plenty near Clare, in Suffolk. Fin>leaved Baftard-parfley, with a fmall purple flowei|; Cauculis tennifolia fiofculis fubrubentibus, Hi/L noji. found amonaft the corn at Notley, and other places. Golden -flowered Samphire; Crithmum cryfanthemum, Park ; found on the bank of the river, above Falbridge, at Maldon in EfTex. Spanifh Catchfly ; Lychnis vifcofa fiore mufcofo, C. B. found in and about the gravel-pits on the north fide o( Newmarket town. Night-flowering Campion ; Lychnis noclifioi a, Park; found among the corn about Saxmundham. The Water Aloe ; Aloe palufiris, C. B. found in the lake in Loving-land. En»li(h Sea-peas ; Pifum marinu>n, Ger. found on the ftone beach between Orford and Alburgh, called the Shingle. Long-leaved Water-hemlock ; Slum ahevum olufairi facie, Ger. found in the lake in Loving land. Knotted Trefoil, with round heads ; Trifoliuru cum ghmcratis ad Caulium nodos rctund'n ; found in gravelly places about Saxmundham. Hedge-hog Trefoil, with rundles refembling a thin fegment of a cone ; Trifolhwi tochleatum modiolis fpinofs ; found on the fea-bank of Orford. Upright Speedwell, with divided leaves ; Alftne foliis hederaciis ruta rnodo divifis y -Lob. found at Mewell, be- tween the two wind-mills and the Warren-lodge. Common Roman Nettle; Urtica Romana, Ger. found at Alburgh, and elfewhere, on the fea-coaft. Small mild white-flowered Jtone-cup ; Sedum minimum non acre fiore albo; found in the barren grounds between Yarmouth and Donevich. Remarks on the Sea-Coasts of Suffolk. The fea-coaft of Suffolk, which extends from Har- wich to Leoftoff, has very few harbours, but feveral lands, which render the navigation fomewhat difficult to thofe unacquainted with that part of England. The Shipwafh lies about three leagues to the eaftwardof Har- wich. It is a large fand, the fides of it pretty fteep, and there are ten fathoms water clofe to it, fo that large fhips are very careful not to come in lefs than twelve or thirteen fathoms, if they fail without it. There is, however, a channel between the Shipwafh, and another fand called Alborough Knaps, and the fhore, in which there are nine or ten fathoms water. The Knaps, above-mentioned, are feveral round emi- nences on a pretty large fand, lying about five miles from Orfordnefs, and due eaft from Aldborough. There are not above two fathoms and a half upon thefe Knaps at low water ; but without, fixteen or feventeen fathoms. The Whiting is a fmall long fand, lying in the paf- fage to the fouthward of Orfordnefs, about a league from the fhore. The fouth end lies farther from the land than the north end, and there are not above fix feet water upon it at low water. Ships coming from the northward generally fail to the weftward of it, or be- tween the land and the Whiting ; but there is alfo a good channel between it and ths Boudfey fand, a pretty large fhoal about two miles to the fouth-eaft of the Whiting. Part of Boudfey fand is dry at low water. It lies about three miles and a half from the fhore, and has nine fathoms water almoft clofe to it. The north end of the Whiting is fo exceeding fteep and fharp, that you have fometimes nine fathoms at one caft of the lead, and the next not above five ; but when this hap- pens, you are not above a fhip's length from the fand, and before you can heave the lead again, you will be upon it. Between the two fands above mentioned is a fmall fand, called the Kettle-bottom, on which there is not water fufficient for a fhip of five hundred tons burden at low water. Near the land, almoft due weft of Covehith, a village with a pretty lofty fteeple, is a fhoal called the Bernard, which is almoft dry at low water ;. but fmall fhips fail between it and the land at half flood, when there are two fathoms water. The outfide of it is fo fteep, that it is not fafe to come nearer to it than nine or ten fathoms. About a cable's length to the northward, is another fand called the Newcome ; and about the fame diftance to the northward of the Newcome, is another called the Stamford. There is a channel between thefe fands and the fhore, through which fhips often pafs. About a league to the weftward of the Newcome, is a round fhoal called the Red-farid, between which and the Newcome there is a channel about half a league broad, in whicii there are fixteen fathoms water. On the point of land near Leoftoff are two light- houfes; one fituated on the beach, and the other on a fmall eminence fomewhat farther within the land. They are of great ufe to the navigation among thefe fands, and form a leading mark for failing through the channel above defcribed. There is alfo a light-houfu upon S U F FOLK. 31/ upon Orfordnefs, erected alfo for the prefcrvation of fhips parting along this coaft in the night. On this coaft there are four havens, viz. Baufey, Or- ford, Mizmore, and Southwold. Baudfey haven is capable of receiving fhips of confi- derable burden, fome of which pafs up to Woodbridge; but thofe of Orford and Mizmore are only tide-harbours, and of very little ufe but to fmall vefiels, which pafs in and out with the tide. Orford haven was formerly ca- pable of receiving large fhips, but has been many years fince almoft choaked up with fandy beach thrown in by the fea. Mizmore is alfo nothing more than a tide- harbour, and frequented only by fmall vefiels, and even very few of thefe put in here, as there is no place of trade near it. Southwold is a much better harbour than any of the two laft, and capable of receiving a confiderable fleet of large fhips. It divides itfelf into three channels a little within its mouth. Upon the northermoft branch is Southwold; on that of the middle, Walderfwick; and on the ibuthern, Dunwich. Other Curious Particulars found in Suffolk. Befides the antiquities, and other curious objects al- ready mentioned in the defcriptions of the feveral towns, &c. in this county, the following particulars muft not be omitted. Huxon, a fmall place fituated eaftward on the river Waveney, is famous for the martyrdom of king Ed- mund. That Chriftian king, becaufe he would not renounce his Saviour, was, by themoft inhuman Danes, to ufe the words of Abbo, '* bound to a tree, and his ** body all over mangled with arrows ; and they, to 44 increafe the pain and torture, did, with fhowers of " arrows, make wound upon wound, till the darts gave " place to one another." And, as a poet of the middle age has fung of him : Jam loca vulneribus defunt, nec dum furiofis Tela, fed hyberna graridina plura volant. Now wounds repeated left no room for new, -\ Yet impious foes ftill more relentlefs grew, L And ftill- like winter-hail, their pointed arrows flew. J Tl'-re is fomething very particular in that part of the river Waveney, where it approaches towards its influx. No one would doubt, when they fee the river growing broader and deeper, and going directly towards the fea, even to the edge of the beach, and within a mile of we main ocean, but that it would make its entrance into the fea at that place, and afford a noble harbour for fhips at the mouth of it ; when on a fudden the land rifing high by the fea-fide, crofies the head of the river like a d.im, checks the whole courfe of it, and it returns, bending its courfe weft, for two miles, and then turning north through a long courfe of meadows, feeks out the river Yare, joins its water with that, and both return to the fea together. It is the opinion of fome of our hiftorians, that this river was once open, and formed a famous harbour for fhips belonging to the town of Leoftoff adjoining ; but that Yarmouth, envying the profperity of Leoftoff, made war upon them ; that after many bloody battles, both by fea and land, they came at laft to a decifive action at fea ; but the Leoftoff fleet being vanquilhed, and utterly deftroyed, the Yarmouth men either actually flopped up the mouth of the faid river, or obliged thfe conquered Leoftoff-men to do it themfelves; and bound them, by an oath, never to attempt to open it again. Members of Parliament for Suffolk. Two knights of the (hire for the county ; and two burgeffes for each of the following boroughs : Ipfwich, Dunwich, Orford, Alborough, Sudbury, Eye, and St. Edmund's Bury. 34 NORFOLK. [ I** ] N O R FOLK; THIS county is bounded by the German Ocean on the eaft and north ; by Cambridgefhire on the weft; and by Suffolk on the fouth. It is above fifty- feven miles in length from eaft to weft, thirty-five in breadth from north to fouth, and one hundred and forty in circumference, containing an area of fourteen hun- dred and twenty-fix fquare miles. It is divided into thirty-one hundreds, in which are one city, thirty-two market-towns, one hundred and fixty-four vicarages, fix hundred and fixty parifhes, feven hundred and eleven villages, and about forty-feven thoufand one hundred and eighty houfcs. It lies in the diocefe of Norwich, and province of Canterbury ; and Eaft Dereham, a con- fiderable market-town, near the centre of the county, is nincty-feven miles north-eaft of London. RIVERS. The principal rivers of this county are^ the Greater and the Smaller Oufe, the Yare, and the Waveney. The Greater Oufe rifes in Northamptonfhire, and running through the counties of Buckingham, Bedford, and Cambridge, and dividing this laft county from Norfolk, falls into a part of the German fea, called the Wafhes, at Lynn Regis, a confiderable borough town of this county. The Smaller Oufe rifes in Suffolk, and feparating that county from Norfolk on the fouth-weft, difcharges itfelf into the Greater Oufe near Downham, a market- town of Norfolk. The Yare rifes about the middle of this county, and running eaftward, paffes by the city of Norwich, and falls into the German fea at Yarmouth, a very confi- derable borough and fea-port. The Waveney rifes in Suffolk, and runs north-eaft ; and parting; that county from Norfolk, falls into the Yare near Yarmouth. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Norfolk. The Waveney, which feparates this county from that of Suffolk, is navigable to Thetford, paffing by a great number of places, both on the Norfolk and Suffolk fides of the ftream, and by that means is of great fervice to the inland trade of thefe parts. But it wants many of the modern improvements, which would render the na- vigation much more expeditious, and confequently lower the prices paid for the carriage of goods. The Yare is navigable to Norwich without the help of locks, and carries barges of confiderable burden up to that city. By thefe a very confiderable trade is carried on* with Yarmouth, where many of the goods are landed and fhippedoff for London, and other home and foreign markets. But though there are no locks on this river, and therefore no expence neceffary for repairs, &c. yet the navigation might be fo far improved by affiftances of that kind, that the expence attending their firft erection and fubfequent repairs, would be foon faved by the cer- tainty and expedition of the paffing and repaffing of the barges up and down this river. The Oufe is navigable to fome diftance above Down- ham, where there is a good harbour for barges, and by this river a confiderable trade is carried on to Lynn Regis, and other towns. Thefe rivers are of great advantage to this county, efpecialty as great quantities of grain are produced in this county. AIR and SOIL. The air of this county, near the fea-coaft, is aguifli, and other wife unfalutary; but in the inland parts, it is both healthy and pleafant, though frequently piercing. | The foil is more various than perhaps that of any other county, and comprehends all the forts that are to be found in the ifland, arable, pafturc, meadow, wood- lands, light fandy ground, deep clay?, heaths and fens. The worft of thefe are far from being unprofitable, the fandy heaths feeding fheep and breeding rabbits, and even the fens affording rich pafture for cattle. Remarks on the Husbandry of Norfolk. Norfolk is famous for the improvements lately made in hufbandry, and by thefe the county now wears a dif- ferent face from what it did a century ago. All the country from Holkam to Houghton was a wild ffieep-walk before the fpirit of improvement feized the inhabitants; and this glorious fpirit has wrought amaz- ing effects ; for inftead of boundlefs wilds, and unculti- vated waftes, inhabited by fcarce any thing but fheep, the country is all cut into inclofures, cultivated in a moft hufband-like manner, richly manured, well peopled, and yielding an hundred times the produce that it did in its former itatc. What has wrought thefe vaft improve- ments, is the marling; for under the v/hole country run veins of avtry rich foapy kind, which they dig up, and fpread upon the old fheep-walks, and then, by means of inclofing, they throw their farms into a regular courfe of crops, and gain immenfely by the improvement. The farms are all larpe, and the rents low ; for the farmers having been at a great expence in improvements, they could not afford them without very long lcafes ; fo that moft of the farms are let at pre'fent at rents much under their value : add to this, a confiderable part of the country belongs to landlords, who have a vanity in not raifing their rents, and others are fuppofed to have taken moderate fines. All together the farmers have managed to raife confiderable fortunes, and to bid fair for being the poffeffors of the whole county. The farms run from three to nine hundred pounds a year, for which fums they have a great quantity cf land. It is very difficult to difcover the rents among fuch large farmers, who all make a great fecret of it ; but we have very good reafons for believing, that they are in general from two fhillings and fix-pence to fix fhi.1- lings per acre. Many farms under a modern lett are rented at ten fhillings and more per acre, but they are not very common. We fpeak of a large tracf of country ftretching from Holkam to the fea weftward, and fouth to Swafham. The principal farms (at leaft thofe that are moft com- monly mentioned) are Mr. Curtis's of Sommerfield, two thoufand five hundred acres. Mr. Mallet's of Dunton, as much. Mr. Barton's of Rougham, three thoufand. Meffrs. Glover's of Creek and Barwic. Meffrs. Savary's of Sydderftone, and Mr. Rogerfon's of Narford, each eleven hundred acres. Cultivation in all its branches is carried on by thefe men, and many others, in a very complete manner. But marling is the great foundation of their wealth. They lay about an hundred loads on an acre, which coft them for digging from one pound five fhillings to one pound ten fhillings, and they reckon the expences of the team, and other labour, to be as much more. The improvement lafts in great vigour above twenty years, and the land is always the better for it. Their courfe of crope is — marie, and break up for wheat ; 2. turnips ; 3. barley; 4. laid down with clover and rye- grafs for three years, or fometimes only two. They dung or fold for all their winter-corn, and reckon two nights fold equal to a dunging ; the quantity of the latter they lay upon an acre, is twelve loads. For fome years after the marling, they reap, on a'mcdiurn, four quarters N O O 3*9 Quarters of wheat per acre, and five of barley ; and fif- teen or eighteen years after marling, thiee quarters of ,\vheat, and four and a half of foft corn. The general ceconomy of their farms will appear from the following fketch of one of eleven hundred acres. The farmer generally has loo acres of winter-corn. 250 - - barley and oats. 50 peafe. 200 - - turnips. 400 - - grafles. 100 - - fheep-walk. IIOO He keep* 6 Servants. 6 Labourers. 30 Hories. 20 Cows. 900 Sheep. 5 Ploughs. And in harveft-time has in all about Forty people in the field. The culture of turnips is here carried on in a moft extenfive manner, Norfolk being more famous for this vegetable than any county in the kingdom ; but we have feen much larger turnips grow in Suffolk, in gra- velly loams, than ever we faw in Norfolk. The ufe to which they apply their vaft fields of turnips, is the feed - ing their flocks, and expending the furplus in fatting Scotch cattle, which they do in feveral methods ; by ftall-feeding; in binns in their farm-yards ; in pafture- fields : and laftly, hurdle them on the turnips as they grow, in the fame manner as tliey do their fheep. By ftall-feeding they make their crop go much the furtheft 5 but the beafts fo fed, are apt to founder on the road to London, the expences of it are great, and the foil lofes the urine: but all thefe methods are yet in ufe. When the marie begins to wear out of the foil, many of the great farmers have latterly got into a method of manur- ing with oil-cakes for their winter-corn, which they import from Holland, and fpread on their fields at the expence of about fifteen millings per acre. There is no great conjuration neceffary to difcover the reafons of fuch large fortunes being made in this country by farmers ; for hiring unimproved lands at a fmall rent, and finding very fine marie every-where u; der them, they made thereby fuch a vaft improvement, that no- thing lefs than a perpetual drought could prevent large crops. Their foil is in general a very light fandy loam, which, in years which arc more inclined to wet thandry- nefs, throws out immenfe crops, the very wetteft that can come are not too much for their lands. Every one will allow, that the chances of the feafons, in this moift climate, are infinitely more in their favour, than if their foil was of the heavy carl. Let us inftance the farm above fpecified : /. s. d. One hundred acres winter corn, at three quar- ters and a half per acre, three hundred and fifty quarters ; and as a fmall part of it is rye, fay the price is one pound ten {hillings, 525 o o Two hundred and fifty acres barley and oats, by far the molt of the former, at four quar- ters and a half pe.r acre, eleven hundred and twenty-five quarters, at fixteen fhillings, goo O o Fifty peafe, four quarters per acre, two hun- dred quarters, at one pound four fhillings per quarter, - 240 o o The methods of laying the profit by a flock, are fo various in different counties, that we believe the medium of what is generally known is neareft the truth ; and that is ten (hillings perlheep in lamb and wool, upon an average; that on nine hundred is 450 o o Twenty cows, at five pounds, - - 100 o o Hogs, - - - - 50 o o 2265 o o This flight calculation takes in no beafts fatted with turnips, becaufe thefe are uncertain, and a variable crop ; and other branches of profit are purpofely omitted, that no one might, on the whole, think it over-ftrained. As to his expences, a few of the principal articles will fhew, that no one can run them up to any thing con- fiderable. 330 o o 72 o o 180 0 0 120 O O 150 O O 70 o o 80 o o 1002 c o Rent, tvthe, and town-charges, at fix mil- lings per acre, - Oats for his horfes, as all foft corn is before charged ; all the thirty are not in conftant food, but run in the farm-yard; fay there- fore, one hundred and twenty quarters at twelve fhillings, - Seed for four hundred acres of corn, including the grafles fown with two hundred, on a me- dium at nine fhillings per acre, Six fervants, - Six labourers, Wear and tear, fay - Harveft, on a medium, four fhillings an acre, Produce, Expencesj Profit, 1263 Here we find a regular income of near thirteen hun- dred pounds a year, on a mod am of prices and feafon?. What therefore has it been for thefe four or fiv e wet years laft paft ! We have no doubt but that thirteen hundred pounds has fume yeais been carried to near three thoufand pounds. But without advancing it fo high, it is very plain, that a long leafe of a good Nor- folk farm is infinitely preferable to the fee Ample of it ; and that there is the greateft profpecf. of feeing this king- dom a land ot yeomenry ; a thing not to be dreaded, for better landed property, whiie it lafts, can never exift. The change, however, prefently enfues. In addition to this remark, we might obferve, that a Norfolk farmer, Mr. Mallet, above mentioned, has lately purchafed eftates in the parifhes of Middleton, Tefterton, and Hockham, to the amount of feventeeri hundred pounds per annum. This remarkable perfon has made his fortune in lefs than thirty years, and on a farm confifting of not above fifteen hundred acres of land, which is by no means thelargeft in this county. We may add, that Mr. Mallet, in January, &c; 1768, had two hundred and eighty fteers fatting on turnips, and artificial grafs hay ; and this on a corn- farm ! PRICE OF LABOUR. In winter, one fhilling a day. In fpring, one fhilling and two-pence. In harveft, two pounds twelve fhillings and fix-pence, or three pounds for the harveft, befides meat, drink, and lodging. It lafts from a month to five weeks. Hoeing of turnips, three fhillings the firft time, and. two fhillings the fecond. Ploughing per acre, two fhillings and fix-pence. In the road from Houghfon to the fea-coaft, by Hun- fton, &c. is much barren land, or rather reputedly bar- ren ; for a really barren foil we do not believe exifls in any large quantities: the Norfolk improvers might turn thefe traces of warren and fheep-walks into profitable farms. One of the greateft improvements in the country is Mr. Curtis's farm p£ Sommet field, belonging to M; j. Henley of Docking. It conufts of two thoufand five hundred acres of land, all gained from ihe ep- walks, and which now is regularly inclofed, and yields immenfe crops of corn. Infomuch, that this farm has been men- tioned as the beft in Europe. 'I 'he rent is faid tu be very final I, and the produce exceeding ; giv.it ; the profit may therefore be ealily conceived. The homjs- fhdl is worth viewing. It is prettily planted, and very neat. Natu- 320 N O R F O L K. Natural Productions, ^^/Manufactures. The natural productions of this county are com, cattle, wool, rabbets, honey, faft'ron, herrings, and other fea-fifh, in great abundance ; and in the river Yare is caught a delicious fifh, peculiar to itfelf, called the Ruffe. Jet and ambergris are fometimes found on the coafts of this county ; and the principal manu- factures are worried, woollens, and filks, in which all the inland parts are employed ; the Norwich fluffs be- ing a very conliderable article in our trade. City, Market Towns, &c. We began our tour through this county at Yarmouth, called Great Yarmouth, to diftinguifh it from a fmall village in its neighbourhood, called Little Yarmouth. It took its name from its fituation at the mouth of the river Yare. This town is diftant from London one hundred and twenty-two miles, and was anciently one of the Cinque- ports. By an old cuftom, Yarmouth appoints certain bailiffs, as commiffaries, who, in conjunction with the magiftrates of the town, hold a court here, during a fair, called the Hcrting Fair, to determine all controverfies, execute j uftice, and keep the peace. Yarmouth had a provoll anted it by king Henry I. and was made a borough oy king John. It began to fend members to parliament in the time of king Edward I. and was walled and ditched round in the time of king Henry III. and in that of Edward III. it fent forty-three fhips, and one thoufand and feventy-five feamen, to the liege of Calais. King Richard II. gave it leave to build a key, after which it had great quarrels with the Cinque-ports, for being excluded out of their number, and confequently deprived of their privileges. By a charter of king Henry III. it was governed by two bailiffs and a re- corder, who were juftices of the peace. The inhabi- tants were about fix thoufand at the acceflion oi" king James I. who incorporated it by the name of a Bailiff, Aldermen, and Common-council. King Charles II. granted it a new charter, by which the bailiffs were changed into a mayor, and is now governed by a mayor, feven aldermen, a recorder, and thirty-fix common- councilmen. The mayor returns the members elected to reprefent it in parliament, who are chofe by the free- men, in number about five hundred. The corporation has particular and extenfive privi- leges. It has a court of record and admiralty. In the court of record are tried civil caufes, for unlimited fums ; in the court of admiralty, they can try, condemn, and execute in fome cafes, without waiting for a warrant. The mayor and aldermen are confervators of the river Oufe, in this county ; the Humber, the Dement, the Wherfe, the Air, and the Dun, rivers of Yorkfhire. This town is bound by its charter, granted by Hen. III. to fend to the fheriffs of Norwich every year one hun- dred herrings baked, in twenty-four parties, which the fheriffs are to deliver to the lord of the manor of Eaft Carlton, a village near New Buckenham ; he gives the fheriffs his receipt for them, and by his tenure is obliged to prefent them to the king, wherever he is. This town, which makes a very good appearance from the fea, is the neateft, the moft compact, and the mod regularly built of any town in England ; the ftreets being ftraight, and parallel to each other; and there is a view acrofs all the ftreets, from the key to the fea, the town Handing in a peninfula between the fea and the harbour. Yarmouth is walled, but the chief ftrength by land is the haven, or river, which lies on the weft lide of it, with a draw-bridge over it. The port or en- trance fetures the fouth, and the fea the eaft ; but the north, which joins it to the main land, is open, and only covered with a fingle wall, and fome old demolifhed works. Here is a market-place, the fineft and beft furnifhed of any in England, for its extent ; and the key is the largeft and handfomeft of any perhaps in Europe, that of Seville in Spain only excepted : it is fo commodious, that people may ftep directly from the fhore into any of the fhips, and walk from one to another, as over z bridge, fometimes for a quarter of a mile together; and is at the fame time fo fpacious, that in fome places it is near an hundred yards from the houles to the wharf. On the wharf is a cuftom-houfe and town-hall, with feveral merchants houfes that look like palaces. Here are two churches, of which St. Nicholas, built in the reign of king Henry I. has fo high a fteeple, that it ferves as a fea-mark. There is a fine hofpital in this town, and two charity-fchools, for thirty-five boys and thirty-two girls, all cloathed and taught ; the boys to make nets, and the girls fpinning, knitting, and plain- work. There is a fmall platform of guns on a flip of land, at the entrance of the harbour, which is all the fecurily of this town : the great guns that were round the walls of the town, having been removed by king Charles II. The feamen employed by the merchants here, are reckoned the beft in England. The fituation of this town is very commodious for trade. It ftands upon the German Ocean, at the mouth of the river Yare, which is navigable from hence to Norwich; befides, there is a navigation from this town by the Waveney, to the fouth parts of Norfolk, and the north of Suffolk ; and by another river, called the Thyne, which falls here into the Yare, it trades to the north part of the county. Though Yarmouth is not fo large a town as Norwich, it is generally thought fuperior in traffic and wealth ; and upwards of half a century ago, above eleven hun- dred veflels belonged to this port, befides the Ihips which its merchants were owners of, or concerned in, at other ports. This is the chief rendezvous of the colliers between Newcaftle and London : the roads on the eaft fide of the town are fo fafe, that they are very much frequented by veflels that pafs and repafs, though there are fome dan- gerous banks of fand in the neighbourhood ; and it cofts the inhabitants of Yarmouth between two and three thoufand pounds a year to keep the harbour clean. ^This town carries on a great trade to France, Holland, and the North and Eaft Seas ; and exports luch quan- tities of corn and malt, that they are faid to have amounted, many years ago, to more than two hundred and twenty thoufand quarters a year. Yarmouth has the whole herring-fifhery of this coaft, in which it em- ploys one hundred and fifty veflels, and between forty and fifty fail in the exportaticn. Fifty thoufand barrels of herrings, which fome magnify to feventy thoufand lafts, containing no lefs than forty millions of herrings, are generally taken and cured here in a year. Thefe herrings are for the moft part exported by the merchants of Yarmouth, the reft by thofe of London, to Italy, Spain, and Portugal ; which, with the camblets, crapes, and other Norwich fluff's, which the merchants of this town export, occafion much bufinefs, and employ abundance of hands and fliipping. The fifhing-fair here, or the feafon for catching her- rings, begins at Michaelmas, and continues all the month of October ; during which time, every veflel that comes to fifh for the merchants from any part of' England, as many do from the coafts of Kent, Sufl'ex, and other counties, is allowed to catch, bring in, and fell their fifh, free of all duty or toll. In the fpring, here is almoft as great a fifhing for mackarel: befides which, this town has a'fifhing-trade to the North-feas for white fifh, called the North Sea Cod ; and it has a confiderable trade to Norwav and the Baltic, for deals, oa!c, pitch, tar, and all naval ftores, which are moftly confirmed in this port, where a great many fhips are built every year. Except Hull, in Yorkfhire, Yarmouth has more trade than any other town on the eaft coaft of England. This town is generally believed to have rifen out of the ruins of an ancient Roman city, called Garianonum, where the Stablefian horfe lay in garrifon againft the ancient Britons ; but the fite of the ancient Garianonum is thought to have been at Burgh Caftle, on the other fide of the river Yare, about two miles from Yar- mouth. In NORFOLK. In the reign of king Henry III. a peftilence raged here, which fwept off feven thoufand of the inhabitants in one year. On the north fide of St. Nicholas church, at Yar- mouth, bifhop Herbert, before the year nbl, placed a priory of three or four black monks, fubordinate to the monaftery at Norwich. At the fouth end of this town, there was a houfe of Black friars, built about the fifty-fifth year of Henry III. Here was likewife an hofpital, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in the beginning of the reign of Edward I. It was founded by Thomas FalftafF, and confifted of a warden, eight brethren, and eight filters. There were alfo in this town two fpittels or houfes, for the maintenance of poor lazars, or leper?, before the year 1 374. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and an annual fair on the Friday and Saturday in Eafter-week, for pedlars ware. The manor and church of St. Marget of Toft-mona- chorum, eight miles fouth-weft of Yarmouth, were given by Robert earl of Mellent and Leicefter* in the time of king Henry I. to the abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul, at Preaux in Normandy. There had been an ancient free chapel in the manor- houfe of Caftor, near Yarmouth, dedicated to St. John the Baptift, as early as the reign of Edward I. and there is faid to have been a chauntry in Caftor-hall, of the foundation of Sir John FalftafF, Knt. which, upon the diflblution, was valued at two pounds thirteen (hillings and feven-pence per annum. According to the laft wiJ and teftament of Hugh Attefenne, made in 1475, a college or hofpital, calleJ God's Poor Alms-houfe, was founded at Heringby, near Yarmouth, for a mafter, three priefts, eight poor men, and two fervants ; which was valued, upon the dilTolution, at twenty-three pounds fix (hillings and three-pence per annum. Plaving furveyed every thing remarkable in Yarmouth, we purfued our journey, along the banks of the Yare, to Norwich, by the Saxons called Northwic, which, ac- cording to different interpretations of the termination w/V, fignifies a northern bay, a northern ftation, a har- bour, or a northern caftle or fart. It may be confidered as a bay of the river Yare, and its fituation is north, in relation to another very ancient caftle or fortified town, about three miles diftant, which is ftill called Caftor, and from the ruins of which Norwich is generally be- lieved to have rifen. This city is one hundred and eight miles diftant from London. It was fpoiled and burnt by Sueno king of Denmark, but foon recovered itfclf ; fo that in Edward the ConfelTor's time, it had thirteen hundred and twenty hurgefies. It fuffered very much by the infurr?c"tion of Ralph, earl of the Eaft-Angles, againft William the Conqueror, in whofe time it was befieged, and reduced by famine ; but that damage was abundantly repaired, y \|pon its being erected into a bifhop's fee in 1096, as it continues to this day. In the reign of king Stephen, it was in a manner rebuilt, and made a corporation. King Henry IV. made this city a county of itfelf, and granted the inhabitants leave to chufe a mayor and two (heriffs, inftead of bailiffs, by whom they had till then been go- verned, according to the charter of king Stephen. It is now governed by a mayor, recorder, fteward, two fhe- riffs, twenty-four aldermen, and fixty common-coun- cilmen, with a town-clerk, fword-bearer, and other inferior officers. The mayor is always nominated on May-day, by the freemen, who return two aldermen to their court, one of whom is elected and fworn into his office with great pomp, on the Tuefday before Mid- fummer-eve. The mayor, during his mayoralty, the recorder, and the fteward for the time being, are each a juftice of the peace, and of the quorum, within the city and its liberties ; and the mayor, after his mayoralty, is juftice of the peace during his life. The fheriffs are alfo annually elected, one by the aldermen, the other by the freemen, on the laft Tuefday in Auguft, and fworn on the twenty-ninth of September ; and the com- mon-councilmen are chofen in Mid-Lent. 34 321 Norwich ftands upon the fide of a hill, and is reckoned near two miles in length from north to fouth, one mile in breadth, and fix in circumference. Though it is a populous city, yet the houfes are but thinly fcattered ; and from the intermixture of gardens and trees, it has been compared to a city in an orchard. The town, upon the whole, is irregular ; but the buildings, both public and private, are very neat and beautiful. This city had a flint-ftonc wall, which was finifheJ. in 1309, and is now very much decayed ; but has, how- ever, twelve gates in it : it is three miles in cqmpafs. and had forty towers. Here formerly were fifty-eight parochial churches and chapels; thefe are now reduced to thirty-fix churches, befides the cathedral. This is a large, venerable, ancient ftruclure, of excellent workmanfhip, founded in the year 1096 by bifhop Herbert, who laid the firft ftone. The choir is fpacious, and the fteeple ftrong, and very high. The roof is adorned with hiftorical palTages of fcripture, prefled in little lineages, well carved. The bifhop's palace, with the prebends houfes round the clofe of this cathedral, make a very good appearance. The church of St. Peter of Mancroft has an admirable ring of eight bells, and is reckoned one of the fineft pa- rifh-churches in England. Some of the churches, how- ever, are thatched, and all of them are crufted with flint ftone, curioufly cut, in the manner that the churches in Italy are crufted in marble. There are two churches for the Dutch and French Flemings, who have had par- ticular privileges granted them, which are carefully pre- ferved. This city has a (lately market-crofs of frce-ftone, ancf a beautiful town-houfe near the market-crofs ; and on a hill near the cathedral, in the heart of the city, there is a caftle, furrounded by a deep ditch, over which there is a ftrong bridge, with an arch of an extraordinary fize. This caftle *is fuppofed to have been built in the time of the Saxons, and is now the common gaol for the county. On the hill near this earth flood the (hire-houfe of the county, which having been burnt down by accident fome years ago, an act of parliament palled in 1746-7 for holding the fummer afiizes, and general quarter- feffions in the city, till a new (hire-houie could be built, and for raifing money for defraying the charges of fuch a building. Here is an ancient palace belonging to the duke of Norfolk, which was formerly efteemed one of thelargeft houfes in England. Here is alfo a houfe of correction, or bridewell, which is a beautiful ftructute built of lquare flint-ftones, fo nicely joined, that no mortar can be fecn. And there is a grammar-fchool, founded by king Edward VI. the fcholars of which are to be nominated by the mayor for the time being, with the confent of the majority of the aldermen. There are twelve charity-fchools in this city, where two hundred and ten boys and one hundred and forty- four girls are taught, cloathed, and fupplied with books. Here are alfo four hofpitals, one of which, St. Helen's, founded originally for the entertainment of ftrangers, was, by king Henry VIII. appropriated for the poor of the city, and maintains eighty poor men and women, who are all cloathed in grey, and muft be fixty years of age before they can be admitted. Another of the hofpi- tals, called Doughty's, is for fixteen poor men and eight vamen, cloathed in purple. Of the other two hofpitals, one is for the teaching, maintenance, and apprenticing thirty boys ; and another for making the fame •provifiori for thirty girls ; each founded by a mayor of this city. There is now but one parochial church in the fuburbs of this city. The river Yare, which runs through the middle of it, is navigable to Norwich, without locks, though no lefs than thirty miles diftant from its mouth. Here are fix bridges over the river ; and on the banks of it two houfes and gardens were opened fome years ago, called Spring Gardens, for the entertainment of the public, in the manner of Vauxhall gardens near London. The worfted manufacture, for which this city has been long famous, and in which even children earn their fubfiftence, was firft brought hither by the Flemings, N n n n i rv NORFOLK. 322 in the reign of king Edward III. and afterwards very much improved by the Dutch, who fled from the duke of Alva's perfecution ; and being fettled here by queen Elizabeth, taught the inhabitants to make great variety of worftcd ftufts, as fayes, baize, ferges, and fhal loons, in which this town carries on a va(t trade, as well fo- reign as domeftic. Camblcts, druggets, and crapes^ are woven here in great perfection, befides other curious fluffs, of which it is faid this city exports to the value of two hundred thoufand pounds a year. Four wardens of the worfted weavers are chofen yearly out of the city, and four out of the neighbourhood, who are fworn to take care that there are no frauds committed in the ma- nufacture. Here is alfo a body of woollen manufacturers, called the Ruflia Company, who employ perfons in all the counties round to fpin yarn for them. There is likewifea flocking manufacture here. It has been computed this city vends to the value of fixty thou- fand pounds a year. The. inhabitants of Norwich are generally fo em ployed in their manufactures within doors, that this city looks as if it was deferted, except on Sundays and holi- days, when the ftreets iwarm with people. The markets of this city are affirmed to be the greateft in England, being furnifhed with corn, live cattle, and prodigious quantities of all forts of provifions, with abundance of yarn, worfted, leather, and whatever clfe a market can afford. By an act of parliament pa/Ted in the year 1726, cer- tain duties are laid on goods brought into this city, for the repair of its bridges, walls, gates, city, waftes, wharfs, and roads. An hofpital, dedicated to St. Paul, called alfo Nor- man Spittel, was begun in this city by the prior and convent, and finifhed in 1221. It was under the go- vernment of a matter or warden, appointed by the monks of the cathedral. Here was an ancient hofpital or nunnery, dedicated to St. Mary and St. John, to which king Stephen having given lands and meadows without the fouth gate, Seyna and Leftelina, two of the lifters, in 1146, began the foundation of a new monaftery, called Kairo, or Carow, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and confifted of a priorefs and nine Benedictine nuns, who were en- dowed, upon the fuppreffion, with fixty-four pounds fixteen fhillings and fix-pence />tr annum. This town has a weekly market on Saturday, but no annual fair. A college, or priory, of the order of the Trinity, for the redemption of captives, was founded by Sir Miles Stapleton, about the year 1360, in the parifh-church of Ingham, near Hickling, which he rebuilt, and procured to be made collegiate. This religious fociety confifted of a prior, facrift, and fix canons, who were endowed at the fuppreflion with fixty-one pounds nine ftiillings and feven-pence per annum. At Weft Sumerton, between Hickling and Yarmouth, there was an hofpital for thirteen leprous perfons, founded by Ranalps de Glanvill, and Barta his wife, in the time of king Henry II. and annexed to their monaftery at Batley, near Orford, a borough town of Suffolk, in the firft year of Henry IV. Aleftiam, one hundred and nineteen miles from Lon- don, is a populous, but poor town, inhabited chiefly by knitters of ftockings. Here is a court kept for the duchy of Lancafter, the manor having been granted to John of Gaunt, duke of Lancafter, by king Edward III. Aleftiam has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-third of March, and the Iaft Tuefday in September, for horfes, lean cattle, and toys. At Oxenhead, a little way fouth-eaft of Aleftiam, in 1667, there were difcovered feveral urns, about three quarters of a yard under the furface of the ground j alfo a fquare piece of brick-work, each fide of which mea- fured near two yards and three quarters : there were up- wards of thirty holes in it, each about two inches in diameter; and as it was one entire piece,, without any joining, it was thought to have been formed, and-barnt in the place where it was found. Upon breaking it open, there appeared feveral ftories or apartments, one above another, in which were placed fmall pots, and in the lower partition was one larger than the reft, with a very fmall mouth, and containing near two gallons of water, which was clear, and without either frhell or tafte. After the water was poured off, there remained in the vefi'el a heavy lump, of a crufty fubftance. North Walftiam, fo called to diftinguihh it from a village not far from this town, called South Walfham, \s one hundred and twenty-one miles diftant from London, and has a plentiful market for corn, flefh, and all forts of provifions, on Thurfday ; and a free-fchool, but nothing elfe remarkable. Cromer, which we next vifited, is a fea-pcrt town, one hundred and twenty-feven miles from London. It has a pretty good harbour, and was formerly a murh larger town than it is at prefent, having had two parifti- churches, one of which, with many houfes, was fwal- lowed up by an inundation of the fea. It is, however* ftill a pretty large town, chiefly inhabited by fiftiermen, efpecially for lobfters, which are caught here in great quantities, and canied to Norwich, and fonietimes to London. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and an annual fair on Whitfun-Monday, for toys. The church of Sheringham, near Cromer, being given by Walter Giffurd, earl of Buckingham, in the time of king Henry II. to the abbey of Nuthall, in Buckinghamfhire, here was a cell of Black canons for fome time belonging to that abbey. At Gimmingham, not far from Cromer, Is ftill pre- ferved the ancient tenure by foccage ; that is, inftead of money, the tenant pays his rent by a certain number of days labour, in hufbandry, or other fervice. Holt is a fmall, obfeure town, one hundred and fixteen miles diftant from London, in which there is nothing that deferves notice, except a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-fifth of April, for horfes, black cattle, fheep, and toys. Maud de Harfcolye, in the time of king Henry II. gave the manor of Fieldawling, near Hdt, to the abbot and convent of Savigny, in Normandy ; upon which there came over hither fome Ciftertian monks of that houfe, to which this was a cell or priory, as it wa» afterwards of Long Benington, in Lincolnftiire. At Blakeney, north-weft of Holt, about the twenty- fourth year of Edward I. Richard and John ^tormer, and Thomas Thober, built and endowed a church and habitation for friars of the Carmelite order. Wallingham, the next place we vifited, is one hun- dred and fixteen miles from London, and is a pretty good town, famous for the ruins of an ancient monaftery, where was a ftirine of the Virgin Mary, as much fre- quented at one time as was that of Thomas Becket at Canterbury ; and here are two wells ftill called by her name. The foil round this town is remarkable for pro- ducing good faffron and fouthernwood. A famous chapel, dedicated to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary, was built here in the year 1061, by the widow of Richaldis de Favarches, in imitation of the chapel at Nazareth ; and here were placed a prior and a convent of Black canons, by her fon, Jeffrey, in the time of William the Conqueror. The pofl'eflions belonging to this convent were valued, upon the diflb- lution, at three hundred and ninety-one pounds eleven (hillings and faven-pence par annum, befides the offer- ings to our Lady, valued, in one manufcript, at two hundred and fixty pounds twelve ftiillings and four-pence per annum, but in another, at twenty-fix pounds fifteen ftiillings only. Great Wallingham has a weekly market on Friday, and an annual fair on Whitfun-Monday, for horfes and pedlars wares. Peter de Valoies, nephew to king William the Con- queror, and Albretla his wife, in the beginning of the reign of king Henry I. gave the church of St. Mary, and the manor of Binham, near Walfingham, to the abbey of St. Albans, in Hertfcrdfhire, to the intent that here might be fettled a priory of Benedictine monks. This 3M N O R F O L K. This cell, about the time cf the diffolution, had fix monks, and eftates to the value of one hundred and forty pounds five {hillings and four-pence per annum. In the church of St. Mary, at Eaft Rudham, between Walfingham and Caftlerifing, William Cheny founded a priorv of regular canons, of the order of St. Auftin, early in the reign of king Stephen, who were, about the beginning of the reign of king Henry III. removed to the extremity of the parifh, eaftward to a place called Cokesford, dedicated to the Virgin Mary; and here a prior, and about nine Black canons, continued till the time of the diffolution, when their income was valued at one hundred and twenty-one pounds eighteen /hillings and ten-pence per annum. At Little, or Old Walfingham, north of Great or New Walfingham, there was an houfe of Francifcan frir.rs, founded about the year 134.6, by Elizabeth de Burgo, countefs of Clare, and the foundrefs of Clare- hall in Cambridge. It had houfes and gardens valued, upon the diffolution, at three pounds per annum. Not far from Walfingham is Rainham, the feat of lord Townfhend. The fituation, the park, and the water, are very agreeable ; but the building itfelf rather refembles a good habitable houfe, than a magnificent ftiucture. Here is the famous picture of Belifarius by Salvator Rofa, the expreflion of which is amazing. The whole country round this feat is rich, and finely cultivated. From Walfihgham we proceeded to Welles, or Wells, a fea-port town, which had once a market, and ftill carries on a very confiderable trade to Holland, efpe- cially in corn, with which this part of the county abounds. The fhore, in the neighbourhood of this town, is fo flat, that the tide ebbs out near two miles. Two miles weft of Wells is Holkam, or Holkham, the celebrated houfe of the countefs of Leicefter, built by the late earl, and which cannot be viewed with too much attention. We were informed, that it appeared by much the moft magnificent when entered by the fouthern approach, and therefore went a fmall round for that advantage, nor did we in the leaft repent it. The firft objects are a few fmall clumps of trees, which jwft catch your attention, and give you warning of an ap- proach : they fketch out the way to the triumphal arch, under which the road runs. This ftruclure is in a beau- tiful tafte, and finifhed in an elegant manner ; it is ex- tremely light, and the white flint ruftics have a fine effect. A narrow plantation on each fide a broad vifto, leads from hence to the obelifk, at the diftance of a mile and an half. This plantation ought to be much broader, for you fee the light through many parts of it; but it is only a fketch of what the late earl defigned, and not meant as complete. At the bottom of the hill, on which the obelifk Hands, are the two porters lodges, fmall, but very neat ftructures. Rifing with the hill, you approach the obelilk, through a very fine plantation ; and nothing can be attended with a better effect than the viftos open- ing at once. There are eight. 1. To the fouth front of the houfe. 2. To Holkam church, on the top of a fteep hill, covered with wood ; a moft beautiful object. 3. To the town of Wells, a parcel of fcattered houfes appearing in the wood. 4. To the triumphal arch. The reft to diftant plantations. Viftos are by no means the tafte of the prefent age, but fuch a genius as lord Leicefter might be allowed to deviate from fafhion in favour of beauty and propriety. Nothing can be more regular than the front of a great houfe, the approach to it ought therefore to partake of this regularity ; becaufe ftfeight cuts are out of fafhion, it would be an abfurdity to take a winding courfe to the houfe-door, for the fake of catching objects aflant and irregularly : fuch manage- ment is to the full in as falfe a tafte, as regular cuts where the houfe is out of the queftion. For inftance, thofe from the temple at Holkam, which, however, com- mand exceedingly beautiful objects; amongft others, Wells church. The lake in the park, which is feen from hence through fome fpreading trees in a moft pic- turefejuc manner. A planted hill ; the fea ; and the reft diftant plantations. The houfe may be faid to confift of five quadrangles, the centre^ and the four wings ; not that they arc fquares, but we ufe the term to give a general idea; Each of the two fronts thereof prefent a centre and two wings. That to the fouth, and the grand approach, is as beautiful, light, airy, and elegant a building, as can be viewed. The portico is in a fine tafte, and the Co- rinthian pillars beautifully proportioned. This central front, in every refpect that can be named, appears all lightnefs, elegance, and proportion : but when you ad- vance near, you find no entrance to the houfe ; there are no ftairs up to the portico; and this circumftance, after fo fine an approach, and fo long feeing the portico, and expecting it to be the entrance, becomes a difap- pointment, and is a fault in the building. We have fpoken hitherto of the central front alone. The whole, including the two wings, we cannot think fo perfect, for there appears a great want of unity. The feveral parts are not fo nicely connected as to form one whole. The centre muft be feen diftinct, each wing the fame, and likewife the fmall parts which join the centre to the wings. Thefe are all diftinct parts, though joined together; nor is there any fimilitude of tafte be- tween the centre and the wings. AN the pieces of this front are light and elegant to a great degree ; but when confideredas the connected parts of one whole, the want of unity is ftriking. The centre is uniform, and, if we may be allowed the expreffion, elegantly magnificent : no building can deferve thefe epithets more than this : but they cannot be applied to the whole front, becaufe the parts are not of a uniform tafte, and the wings are at beft but light and elegant; they have nothing magnifi- cent in them: as to the joining pieces, they are pretty. The north front confifts of one row of Venetian win- dows, over another^ of common fafhes in the ruftics. This front is not fo pleafing as the fouth one, but it is by far more of a piece with the wings, &c. You enter what they call the great hall, but what is in reality a paffagc. It is called a cube of forty-eight feet ; but eighteen very large and magnificent Corin- thian pillars, having their pedeftals refted on a marble paflage around it, and eight or ten feet high from the ground, the area at bottom is but an oblong paffage, walled in with Derbyfhire marble, and upon that wall are the pillars, fix in a line on each fide, and fix in front in a femicircle around a flight of fteps up to the faloon door. The paffage or gallery, as it may be called, runs . around thefe pillars, and both together take up fo much room, that all fort of proportion is loft : to look from it into the area, it appears exactly like a bath. The fouth front was one proof, and this hall is another, that the architect's genius was not of the magnificent or lublime ftamp, for in both he aimed at greatnefs. The im- preffion of the front is varied, and confequently weakened by the wings ; and the want of proportion in the hall ruins the vaft effect which would otherwife attend the magnificence of fuch pillars fo nobly arranged ; but in the elegant, the pleafing, the agreeable, his tafte has never failed throughout the whole building. The hall is entirely of Derbyfhire marble. The faloon is forty-two feet by twenty-feven, a pro- portion much condemned, but it is by no means dif- pleafing. Some call it a gallery, and perhaps a gallery is infinitely preferable to a cube, or to any proportion near a fquare enormoufly high. One of the fineft rooms in England is the double cube at Wilton, which is more of a gallery than the faloon at Holkam, and yet no one ever entered it without being ftruck with the juftnefs of the proportions. This faloon is hung with crimfon caffoy ; the pier-glaffes fmall, on account of the nar- rownefs of the piers, each againft a pillar of the portico, but in a very elegant tafte. The rooms to the left of the faloon are, firft, a drawing-room thirty-three by twenty-two, hung with crimfon caffoy. The pier- glaffes very large, and exceedingly elegant; the agate tables beautiful beyond defcription. From thence we entered the landfcape-room, which is a drefllnT- roorn to theftate bed-chamber; it is twenty-four by twenty-two, hung with crimfon damafk. A paflage-room 'leads to the anti-room to the chapel, and then into the ftate- gallery. The walls are of Derbyfhire marble j the altar, NOR FOLK. 3*5 and all the decorations, in a very fine tafte. Returning to the landfcape-room, you pafs into the ftate bed- chamber, thirty by twenty-four, which is fitted up in a moft elegant tafte. It is hung with French tapeftry, except between the piers, which is by Mr. Saunders of Soho-fquare ; the colours of the whole exceedingly bril- liant. The bed is a cut velvet, upon a white fattin ground, and as it appears in common, is a very hand- some gilt fettee, under a canopy of ftate : the defign of this bed is equal to any thing in England. The chim- ney-piece remarkably beautiful ; pellicans in white marble. The next apartment is lady Leicefter's, con- lifting of a bed-chamber, dreffing-room, clofet with books, and a fmaller one. The bed-chamber twenty- four by twenty-two, purple damafk, French chairs of ChiiTel-ftreet velvet tapeftry ; the chimney-piece a bafib relievo of white marble, finely polifhed. The dreffing-room twenty-eight by twenty-four, hung with blue damafk. So much for the fuite of rooms to the left of the hall and faloon. On the other fide you enter from the latter, another drawing-room thirty-three by twenty-two, hung with a crimfon-flowered velvet. The glafles, tables, and chimney-pieces, are well worth attention. From this room you enter the ftatue-gallery, which is, without exception, the moft beautiful room we ever beheld : the dimenfions are to theeye proportion itfelf nothing offends the moft criticifing. It confifts of a middle part feventy feet by twenty-two, and at each end an octagon of twenty-two, open to the centre by an arch ; in one are compartments with books, and in the other, ftatues : thofe in the principal part of the gallery ftand in niches in the wall, along one fide of the room, on each fide the chimney-piece. Among thefe, the Diana is extremely fine, and the arms inimitably turned. The Venus in wet drapery is likewife exquifite ; nothing can exceed the manner in which the form of the limbs is feen through the cloathing. The flabs are very fine ; the ceiling, the only plain one in the houfe, the reft being aJl gilt fret-work and mofaic. The entrance we have already mentioned from the drawing-room, is into one octagon, and out of the other opens the door into the dining- room, a cube of twenty- eight feet, with a large recefs for the fide-board, and two chimney-pieces exceedingly elegant ; one a fow and pigs, and wolf ; the other a bear and bee-hives, finely done in white marble ; the nofe of the fow was broke pff by a too common mifapplication of fenfe, feeling inftead of feeing. Returning into the ftatue-gallery, one octa- gon leads into the ftrangers wing, and the other to the late earl's apartment, confifting of, i. The anti-room. 2. His lordfhip's dreffing-room. 3. The library, fifty by twenty-one, and exceedingly elegant. 4. Her lady- fhip's dreffing-room. 5. The bed-chamber. 6. A clofet with books. The rooms are about twenty-two by twenty. The ftrangers wing confifts of an anti-chamber, dreffing- room, bed-chamber, clofet with books, bed-chamber, dreffing-room, bed-chamber, dreffing-room. The fitting up of the whole houfe, in all particulars not mentioned, is in the moft elegant tafte, the Venetian windows beautiful, ornamented with magnificent pillars, and a profufion of gilding. But now we come to what, of all other circumftances, is in Holkam infinitely the moft ftriking, and what ren- ders it fo particularly fuperior to all the great houfes in the kingdom, convenience. In the firft place, with refpect to the ftate-apartments. From the hall to the faloon, on each fide a drawing-room : through one of them to the ftate dreffing-room and bed-chamber; this is perfectly complete. Through the other drawing-room to the ftatue-gallery, which may be called the rendezvous room, and connects a number of apartments together, in an admirable manner; for one octagon opens into the private wing, and the other into the ftrangers on one fide, and into the dining-room on the other. This din- ing-room is on one fide of the hall, on the other is lady Leicefter's dreffing-room, and through that her bed- chamber and clofets. From the recefs in the dining- room opens a little door on to a ftair-cafe, which leads immediately to the offices; and we Ihould add, that in 35 the centre of the wings, by the centre of the houfe, by the faloon door, and behind lady Leicefter's clofet, are ftair-cafes quite unfeen, which communicate with all the rooms, and lead down into the offices : we fay, down ; for the hall is the only room feen on the ground- floor : you ftep direftly from a coach into it, without any quarry of winding fteps to wet a lady to the fkin before (he gets under cover. From the hall you rife to the faloon, or firft floor, and there is no attick. Thus there are four general apartments, which are all diftindt from each, with no reciprocal thoroughfares; the ftate; her ladyfhip's ; the late earl's; and the ftranger's wing. Thefe feverally open into what may be called common rooms, the hall, ftatue-gallery, and faloon, and all im- mediately communicate with the dining-room. There may be houfes larger, and more magnificent, but human genius can never contrive any thing more convenient. In this ftructureare the following paintings: Jofeph and Potiphar's wife ; a good piece. By Cignani Virgin and child. P. Pietris Two large landfcapes. Pouffin A fmaller one. Ditto Three others in the landfcape-room j fine. Ditto Two others. Dittto Duke of Aremberg ; a very fine piece. Vandyke Coriolanus : the figure of the old man kneeling before Coriolanus, and hiding his face with his hands, is ex- tremely fine ; but the figure of Coriolanus himfelf, with- out dignity, haughtinefs, or any great expreffion. The wife leading her two children, and fmiling on them, forms a figure of no expreffion : the colouring, however, and the back ground, are good; the difpofition indif- ferent. P. Cortona Jacob and Efau, dark and difagreeable. Ditto Continence of Scipio. The profile of the Spanifh lady wonderfully graceful and fine. Scipio's, a very bad figure, his countenance without expreffion ; but the dif- pofition of the group very well imagined. Gieufeppi Chierera Perfius and Andromeda : Andromeda's figure a very good one, and the whole piece well coloured. Ditto. Death of Lucretia ; the lights and Ihades very bad. Procochiano Quintus Cincinnatus. Ditto Jofeph and Potiphar's wife : none of this famous painter's bright and glowing manner j the colouring hard and difagreeable. Guido A faint's head. Ditto Cupid. Ditto Affumptionj vile. Ditto Flight into Egypt : a good picture ; but the figures difagreeable, efpecially Mary's, who is a female moun- tain. The drawing appears to be bad. Rubens Birds. Ditto Venus j the colouring gone off, hard and difagreeable. Titian Venetian lady ; colours gone. Ditto Woman's head; ditto. Ditto Lot and his daughters ; dark and difagreeable. Do- minichino Abraham and Ifaac (in the landfcape-room) rather in a dark ftile. Ditto A landfcape ; not in his bright manner. Carlo Maratt, Judith and Holofernes ; dark. Ditto Madona, reading. Ditto Apollo and Daphne. Ditto Magdalen and angel. Ditto Two views of a ftorm ; both exceeding fine. Vernet A rock ; very fine. Salvator Rofa A rock. F. Bolonefe St. John Baptift. Ditto Two landfcapes. Onionte St. John preaching. L. Giordano s Landfcapes ; river and bridge. Claud Loraine Pegafus. Ditto Argus. Ditto Apollo keeping fheep. Ditto Three others. Ditto Repofe in Egypt, Ditto O 0 0 0 In 3 i6 K © R F O L K. In thefe landscapes, Claud's elegant genius (hines with uncommon luftre. Two landfcapes. Lucatelli Jupiter and Juno; colouring bad j her neck and face the beft. Hamilton Polypheme and Galatea ; the drawing ftrong and fine. An. Carrach. Two altar-pieces ; indifferent colouring. Conca Holy family. Albano Two pieces of boys and flowers. P. Laura Madona and child ; drawing and colouring very fine. Raphael Holy family : but quere of both to the connoifTeurs in originality. Ditto Woman in a cave ; more pleafing than any piece in this collection : the face very expreflive, extremely deli- cate, finely turned, and the drapery exquifite, difplaying the roundnefs of the limbs through it in the happieft taftec Parmegiano Mary Magdalen, wafhingour Saviour's feet. P. Ve- ronefe Chrift carrying the crofs. Baflan Youth and Old Age, two pieces ; the old man very fine. Lanfranco Angel appearing to Jofeph in a dream ; dark ftile. Ditto Abraham, Ifhmael, &c. And. Sacchi r St. Anne, and St. Cecilia : the colouring very fine; the attitudes admirable, and the drapery graceful. Cy- priani. The object raoft ftriking on the north fide of the park, is the lake, which is of great extent, and extremely beautiful. Tlie fiiore is a very bold one, all covered with wood to a great height, and on the top ftands the church. The plantations in general are lketched with more tafte than any to be feen : in the number of acres, many exceed them ; but they appear to various points of view infinitely more confiderable than they really are. At the north entrance into the park, they (how prodgi- oufly grand ; you look full upon the houfe with a very noble back ground of wood ; the obelifk juft above the centre ; with an extent of plantation on each fide that renders the view really magnificent. Nothing can be more beautiful than that from the church ; the houfe appears in the midft of an amphitheatre of wood, the plantations riling one above another. Another point of view is the vale on the eaft fide of the park. The north plantation ftretches away to the right, with vaft magni- ficence, the fouth woods to the left, and joining in the front, form an extent of plantation that has a noble effect. Burnham-Market is thus called on account of its be- ing a market-town, and to diftinguifh it from feven vil- lages in its neighbourhood, all known by the name of Burnham, and diftinguilhed from each other by the name of the ancient lord of the manor. This town Hands in the north-weft part of the county, on the fea- fide, at the diftance of ninety miles from London: it has a fine harbour, and, together with the other villages of the fame name, drives a great trade in corn to Holland. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fifteenth of March, for cheefe and toys ; and the firft of Auguft, for horfes, black cattle, (heep, and toys. Brancafter, in the north-weft part of this county, and near Burnham, was the ancient Brannodunum of the Romans, and the ftation of a body of Dalmatian horfe. Several coins have been found here, and the remains of a Roman camp are ftill viftble. At a place formerly called Peterfton, in the parifti of Burnham, there was a houfe of canons, of the order of St. Auftin, before the year 1200: it was dedicated to St. Peter, and fubordinate to the monaftery of Walfing- ham, to which it was wholly annexed in 1449. In a field near North Creke, not far from Burnham, in 1206, a church was built, dedicated to {he Virgin Mary, by Sir Robert de Nerford, governor of Dover- caftlc, in Kent, who fome time after founded here alfo a chapel, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, with an hofpital for a mafter, four chaplains, and thirteen poor lay- brethren ; which being farther endowed by his widow* it was changed into a priory of regular canons, of the order of St. Auftin. About the year 1226, king Henry III. in the fifteenth year of his reign, made it ail abbey ; but it was diflblved about the twenty-fecond year of king Henry VII. and its land and revenues fettled by that prince's mother upon Chrift's College irt Cambridge. At fome place near Burnham, in 1241, there was a houfe of White, or Carmelite friars, founded by Sir Ralph de Hemenhale, and Sir William de Calthorp, knights, valued, upon the diflolution, at two pounds five {hillings and four-pence per annum. From Burnham we continued our journey towards Snelfham, and in our Way vifited Houghton Hall, the feat of the earl of Orford ; the gardens and plantations of which are very large and beautiful. Many of the trees were planted by the late Sir Robert Walpole himfelf. The whole extent of the building, including the co- lonade and wings, which contain the offices, is four hundred and fifty feet 5 the main body of the houfe ex- tends one hundred and fixty-fix feet. The whole build- ing is of ftone, and crowned with an entablature of the Ionic order, on which is a baluftrade. At each corner of the houfe is a cupola furmounted with a lanthorn. This (lately ftructure was begun in the year 1 722, and finifhed in 1 735 ; during which interval, the founder continued firft minifter of ftate. The common approach to the houfe is by the^ fouth- end door, over which is engraved this infcription : Robertus Walpole Has JEdes Anno S. — 1722. Inchoavit Anno I73S* Perfecit. On the right hand you enter a fmall breakfaft-room. Over the chimney is a very good picture of hound?, by Wootton. A concert of birds, by Mario di Fiori ; a very un- common picture, for he feldom painted any thing but flowers : it belonged to Gibbins the carver, and is four feet feven inches high, by feven feet nine and a quarter wide. The Prodigal Son returning to his father; a very dark picture, by Pordenone, the architecture and landfcape very good : it is five feet five inches high, by eight feet eleven and a half wide. This picture belonged to George Villiers, the great duke of Buckingham. A horfe's head, a fine (ketch, by Vandyke. A greyhound's head, by Old Wyck, who was Woot- ton's mafter. Sir Edward Walpole, grandfather to Sir Robert Wal- pole. Robert Walpole, fon to Sir^ Edward, and father to Sir Robert Walpole. Horatio lord Townftiend, father to Charles lord vif- count Townftiend. Mr. Harold, gardener to Sir Robert Walpole, a head, by Ellis. The Supping Parlour. The battle of Conftantine and Maxentius, a copy^ by Julio Romano, of the famous picture in the Vatican, which he executed after a defign of Raphael. It is four feet eight inches and a half high, by nine feet feven and a quarter wide. Over the chimney, Horace Walpole, brother to Sir Robert Walpole ; three quarters length, by Richardfon. Sir Robert Walpole, when fecretary at war to queen Anne; three quarters, by Jervafe. Catherine lady Walpole, his firft wife, ditto. Sir Charles Turner, one of the lords of the treafury ; three quarters, by Richardfon. Charles lord vifcount Townftiend, fecretary of ftate to king George I. and II. three quarters, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Dorothy, NORFOLK. Dorothy, his fecond wife, and fecond fifter to Sir Ro- berjJWalpole ; three quarters, by Jervafe. Anne Walpole, aunt to Sir Robert Walpole, (a head.) Dorothy Walpole, ditto. Mary Walpole, ditto. Elizabeth Walpole, ditto. The Hunting Hall. Sufannah and the two elders, by Rubens ; five feet eleven inches and a half high, by feven feet eight inches *nd a quarter wide. A hunting-piece : Sir Robert Walpole is in green ; Col. C. Churchill in the middle j Mr. T. Turner on one fide, by Wootton, Tk Coffee Room. Over the chimney, a landfcape with figures dancing, by Swanivelt ; two feet three inches high, by three feet three wide. Jupiter and Europa, after Guido, by Pietro da Pietris ; four feet ten inches high, by fix feet two wide. Galatea, by Zimeni ; four feet ten inches high, by fix feet two wide. Horatio Walpole, uncle to Sir Robert Walpole, three quarters. Galfridus Walpole, younger brother to Sir Robert. Returning through the arcade, you afcend the great ftair-cafe, which is painted in chiaro obfeuro, by Kent. In the middle, four Doric pillars rife and fupport a fine caft in bronze of the gladiator, by John of Boulogne, which was a prefent to Sir Robert from Thomas earl of Pembroke. The Common Parlour. This room is thirty feet long by twenty-one broad. Over the chimney is fome fine pear-tree carving, by Gibbins ; and in the middle of it hangs a portrait of him by Sir Godfrey Kneller: it is a mafter- piece, and equal to any of Vandyke : three quarters. King William, an exceeding finefketch, by Sir God- frey — for the large equeftrian picture which he afterwards executed very ill at Hampton Court, and with feveral al- terations, four feet three inches high, by three feet fix wide. King George I. a companion to the former, but finiflied : the figure is by Sir Godfrey, which he took from the king at Guilford horfe-race : the horfe is new painted, by Wootton. A ftud of horfes, by Wouvermans ; two feet one inch and three quarters high, by two feet nine. Venus bathing, and Cupids with a carr, in a landfcape, by Andrea Sacchi, one foot ten inches and a half high, by two feet fix inches wide : it was lord Hallifax's. A holy family, by Raphael da Reggio, a fcholar of Zucchero ; two feet two inches and three quarters high, by one foot one quarter v/ide. A fine picture of architecture In perfpective, by Steen- •wyck, one foot nine inches high, by two feet eightwide. Cook's fhop, by Teniers : it is in his very beft man- ner : there are feveral figures, in particular his own, in a hawking habit, with fpaniels ; and in the middle an old blind fifherman, finely painted; five feet fix inches and three quarters high, by feven feet feven and three quar- ters wide. Another cook's fhop, by Martin de Vos, who was Snyders's mafter, and in this picture has excelled any thing done by his fcholar : it is as large as nature : there is s greyhound Inarling at a cat, in a moft mafterly man- ner, five feet eight inches high, by feven feet ten and a half wide. A Bacchanalian, by Rubens: it is not a very pleafant picture, but the fiefli of the Silenus, and the female fa- tyrs, are highly coloured ; two feet feven inches and a half high, by three feet fix wide. The Nativity, by Carlo Cignani : the thought of this picture is borrowed (as it has often been by other paint- ers) from the famous Notte of Correggio at Modena, where all the light of the picture flows from the child ; three feet leven and a half high, by two feet ten and a half wide. Sir Thomas Chaloner, an admirable portrait, three quarters, by Vandyke. Sir Thomas Grefharri, the founder of Grefham-col- lege, by Antonio More; two feet fix inches and a quarter high, by two feet and a half wide. Erafmus, by Holbein-, a half length fmaller than life. A Friar's head, by Rubens. Francis Halls, Sir Godfrey Kneller's mafter : a head by himfelf. The School of Athens, a copy of Raphael's fine pic- ture in the Vatican ; three feet two inches high, by four feet two and three quarters wide. Jofeph Carreras, a Spanilh poet, writing ; an half length, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Rembrandt's wife, half length, by Rembrandt. Rubens's wife, a head, by Rubens. A man's head, by Salvator Rofa. Mr. Locke, a head, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Inigo Jones, a head, by Vandyke. Over the door, a daughter of Sir Henry Lee, three quarters, by Sir Peter Lely. Over another door, Mrs. Jenny Deering, miftrefs to the marquis of Wharton : thefe two came out of the Wharton collection; Over the tvto other doors, two pieces of ruins, by Viviano. The Library. This room is twenty-one feet and an half, by twenty- two feet and a half. Over the chimney is a whole length, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, of king George I. in, his coronation robes, the only picture for which he ever fat in England; The Little 'Bed-Chamber. This room is all wainfeotted with mahogany ; and the bed, which is of painted taffaty, ftands in an alcove of the fame wood. Over the chimney is a half length, by Dahl, of Ca- tharine Shorter, firft wife of Sir Robert Walpole. This is an extreme good portrait. On the other fide, a portrait of Maria Skerret, fecond wife to Sir Robert Walpole, three quarters, by Vanloo. The Little Dr effing-Room. A landfcape, by Wootton, in the ftile of Claude Lor- rain, over the chimney. the Blue Damajk Bed-Chamber Is of the fame dimenfions with the Library, and is hung with tapeftry. Over the chimney, Sir Robert Walpole, afterwards earl of Orford, prime minifter to king George I. and George II. a whole length in the garter robes, by Vanloo. The Drawing-Room Is thirty feet by twenty -one, and hung with yellow caffoy. The ceiling is exactly taken, except with the alteration of the paternal coat for the ftar and g3rter, from one that was in the dining-room of the old houfe, built by Sir Edward Walpole, grandfather to Sir Robert; Over the chimney is a genteel buft of a Madona in marble, by Camillo Rufconi. Above, is carving by Gibbins, gilt, and within it a fine picture, by Vandyke, of two daughters of lord Wharton, out of whofe collection thefe came ; with all the other Vandykes in this room, and fome others at lord Walpole's at the Exchequer: five feet four inches high, by four feet three wide. The Judgment of Paris, by Luca Jordano. There is an odd diffufion of light all over this picture: the Pallas is a remarkable fine figure, eight feet high, by ten feet eight and a quarter wide. A fleeping Bacchus, with nymphs, boys, and animals, its companion, King Charles I. a whole length, in armour, by Van- dyke. By a miftake, both the gauntlets are drawn for the right hand. Henrietta Maria of France, his queen, by ditto. Archbifhop 3^3 N © R F Archbifhop Land, the original portrait of hinv three quarters, by ditto. - . Philip lord Wharton, three quarters, by ditto. Lord chief baron Wandsford, head of the Caftlecomcr family ; three quarters, fitting, by Vandyke. Lady Wharton, three quarters, by ditto. Jane, daughter of lord W enman y ditto. The hands,, in which Vandyke excelled, are remarkably fine in this- picture. Robert lord Walpole,. eldeft fon to Sir Robert Wal-. pole by Catharine his firft wife ; a head in crayons, by Rofalba. Edward Walpole, fecond fon to Sir Robert Walpole, ditto. ■ j Horace Walpole, third fon to Sir Robert, ditto. Mary lady vifcountefs Malpas, fecond daughter to Sir Robert Walpole, by his firft wife: a profile Iketch, by Jervafe. Lady Maria Walpole, only child to Sir Robert Wal- pole, earl of Orford, by Maria his fecond wife, married toC. Churchill, Eiq; in crayons, by Pond. The Saloon Is forty feet long, forty high, and thirty wide ; the hanging is crimfon flowered velvet ; the ceiling painted in Kent, who defigned all the ornaments throughout the houfe. The chimney-piece is of black and gold marble, of which too are the tables. In the broken pediment of the chimney ftands a fm-dll antique buft of a Venus ; and over the garden door r is a large antique buft. On the great table is an exceeding fine bronze of a man and woman, by John of Boulogne. On the other tables are two vafes of oriental alabafter. Over the chimney, Chrift baptized by St. John, a moft capital picture of Albano. His large pictures are feldom good, but this is equal, both for colouring and drawing, to any of his mafter Caracci, or his fellow fcholar Guido : it if eight feet eight inches high, by fix feet four and a ftalf wide. Thi3 picture belonged to Mr. Laws, firft minifter to the regent of France. The ftoning of St. Stephen, a capital picture of Le Soeur : it contains nineteen figures, and is remarkable for exprefling a moft mafterly variety of grief. The faint, by a confiderable anacronifm, but a very common one among the Roman Catholics, is drefled in the rich habit of a modern prieft at high mafs, nine feet eight inches and a half high, by eleven feet three and three quarters wide. The Holy Family, a moft celebrated picture of Van- dyke. The chief part of it is a dance of boy-angels, which are painted in the higheft manner : the Virgin feems to have been a portrait, and is not handfome, it is too much crowded with fruits and flowers, and birds. In the air are two partridges, finely painted ; feven feet and half an inch, by nine feet one and three quarters. Mary Magdalen wafhing Chrift's feet; a capital pic- ture of Rubens, finifhed in the higheft manner, and finely preferved. There are fourteen figures as large as life : the Magdalen is particularly well coloured, fix feet three quarters of an inch high, eight fees two wide. The Holy Family, in a round, by Cantarini : the child is learning to read ; three feet fix inches every way. The Holy Family, by Titian. It belonged to Mon- fieur de Morville, fecretary of ftate in France ; four feet feven and a half high, by three feet four and a half wide. Simeon and the child ; a very fine picture of Guido. The defign is taken from a ftatue of a Silenus with a young Bacchus, in the Villa Borghefe at Rome. This was in Monfieur de Morville's collection ; three feet two inches and a half high, by two feet feven and a half wide. The Virgin, with the child afleep in her arms, by Auguftine Caracci ; three feet fix inches high, by two feet nine and three quarters wide. An old woman giving a boy cherries, by Titian : it is his own fon and nuri'e ; four feet ten inches high, by three feet fix and three quarters wide. The Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto. This and the laft were from the collection of the Marq. Mari, at Genoa; three feet one inch and a quarter high, by two feet feven and a quarter wide, • The Aflumption of the Virgin, a beautiful" figure, fupported by boy-angels, in a very bright mamiRf, bjy Morellio; fix feet four inches and three quarters high, by four feet nine and a half wide. The adoration of the fhepherds, its companion : all the light comes from the child.. The Cyclops at their forge, by Luca Jordano, This belonged to Gibbins-; fix feet four inches high, by four feet eleven wide. Daedalus and Icarus, by Le Brun : in a different rnaa- ner from what he generally painted ; fix feet four inches high, by four feet three wide.. The Carlo Maratt Room Is thirty feet by twenty-one. The hangings are green? velvet, the table of Lapis Lazuli; at each end are two fconces of maflive filver. Over the chimney is Clement the Ninth, of the Rofi pigliofi family; three quarters fitting, a moft admirable portrait, by Carlo Maratti. It was bought by Jervafe the painter out of the Arnaldi palace at Florence, where are the remains of the great Palavicini collection, from whence Sir Robert bought feveral of his pictures. No- thing can be finer than this, the boldnefsof the penciling is as remarkable as his delicacy in his general picturea, and it was fo much admired, that he did feveral of them. The Judgment of Paris, drawn- by Carlo Maratti, when he was eighty-three years old, yet has none of the rawnefs of his latter pieces; the drawing of the Juno is very faulty, it being impoflible to give fo great a turn to the perfon as he has given to this figure : it came out of the Palhvicini collection ; five feet nine inches and three quarters high, by feven feet feven and a quarter wide. Galatea fitting with Acis, Tritons, and Cupids, its companion ; five feet eight inches and three quarters high, by feven feet feven and a half wide. The Holy Family, an unfinifhed picture, large as life, by Carlo Maratti, in his laft manner; three feet two inches and three quarters high, by two feet eight and a quarter wide. The Virgin teaching Jefus to read, by Carlo Maratti ; two feet three and a quarter, by one foot ten and a quarter* St. Ccecilia with four angels playing on mufical in- ftruments, companion to the former. Thefe two laft are moft perfect and beautiful pictures, in his beft and' moft finifhed manner, and were in the Pallavicini col- lection. The Aflumption of the Virgin, by Carlo Maratti ; fhe has a deep blue veil all over her ; two feet three inches and three quarters high, by one foot ten and a quarter wide. The Virgin and Jofeph with a young Jefus, a fine picture by Carlo Maratti, in the manner of his mafter, Andrea Sacchi ; two feet five inches and a quarter high, by two feet wide. The marriage of St. Catharine, by Carlo Maratti ; two feet feven inches high, by one foot ten and a half' wide. Two faints worfhipping the Virgin in the clouds, by Carlo Maratti ; two feet three inches and a half high, by one foot nine and a half wide. St. John the Evangelift, its companion. A naked Venus and Cupid, by Carlo Maratti, in a very particular ftile ; three feet one inch and a half high, by four feet four and a half wide. The Holy Family, by Nicholo Beretorii, Carlo's beft fcholar. This picture is equal to any of his mafter's. The grace and fweetnefs of the Virgin, and the beauty and drawing of the young Jefus, are incomparable j three feet one inch and a quarter high, by four feet four and a quarter wide. The aflumption of the Virgin, by ditto ; two feet two inches and a quarter high, by one foot eight and a quarter wide. The pool of Bethefda, by Giofeppe Chiari, another of Carlo's fcholars ; three feet three inches high, by four feet five wide. Chrift's fermon on the mount, ditto. Apollo and Daphne, ditto,. EaccljLts NOR Bacchus and Ariadne, the beft of trie four, ditto : the Bacchus feems to be taken from the Apollo Belve-. dere, as the ideas of the Ariadhe and the Venus evi- dently are from the figures of Liberality and Modefty, in the famous picture of Guido, in the collection of the Marquis del Monte at Bologna. Apollo in crayons, by Rofalba; two feet two inches igh, by one foot eight wide. Diana, its companion. A profile head of a man, a capital drawing in a great ftile, by Raphael. V A profile head of St. Catharine, by Guido. The birth of the Virgin, by Luca Jordano; two feet one inch high, by orte foot and a quarter of an inch. The premutation of the Virgin in the temple, its com- panion : thefe two are finiflied defigns for two large pic- tures, which he painted for the fine church of the Ma- donna della Salute at Venice. . The flight into Egypt, by Morellio, in the manner of Vandyke ; three feet two inches and a quarter high, by one foot eleven and a quarter wide. The crucifixion, its companion. Hercules and Ompha'e, by Romanelli ; three feet one inch and a half high, by four feet three wide. The Velvet Bed-Chamber Is twenty-one feet and a half by twenty-two and a half. The bed is of green velvet, richly embroidered, and laced with gold ; the ornament defigned by Kent : the hangings are tapeftry, reprefenting the loves of Ve- nus and Adonis, after Albano. Alexander adorning the tomb of Achilles, by LeMer. The head of Alexander is taken from his medals, the figures are in the true antique tafte, and the buildings fine ; eight feet two inches and three quarters high, by five feet two and a half wide. Over one of the doors, a fea-port, by Old GrifHer ; three feet two inches and a half high, by four feet one inch wide. A landfcape over the other door, by ditto. The Drejfing-Rooth Is hung with very fine gold tapeftry, after pictures of Vandyke. There are whole length portraits of James I. queen Anne his wife, daughter to Frederick the fecond king of Denmark, brother to queen Anne ; they have fine borders of boys, with feftoons, and oval pictures of the children of the Royal Family. At the upper-end of the room is a glafs-cafe filled with a large quantity of filver philegree, which belonged to Cath. lady Walpole. Over the chimney, the confulting the Sibylline oracles, a fine picture, by Le Mer ; companion to that in the bed-chamber : the architecture of this is rather the better. The Embroidered Bed-Chamber. The bed is of the fineft Indian needle-work. Over the chimney, the Holy Family, large as life, by Nicolo Pouflin. It is one of the moft capital pictures in this collection, the airs of the heads, and the draperies, are in the fineft tafte of Raphael, and the antique. Elizabeth's head is taken from a ftatue of an old woman in the Villa Borghefe at Rome; the colouring is much higher than his ufual manner j the Virgin's head, and the young Jefus, are particularly delicate ; five feet feven inches, by four feet three and three quarters wide. Over the doors, two pieces of cattle, by Rofa di Tivoli. The Cabinet Is twenty-one feet and a half, by twenty-two and a half, hung with green velvet. Over the chimney is a celebrated picture of Rubens's wife, by Vandyke; it was fitted for a pannel in her own clofet in Rubens's houfe. She is in black fattin, with a hat on, a whole length ; the hands and the drapery are remarkably good. Rubens's family, by Jordaens of Antwerp: Rubens is playing on a lute, his firft wife is fitting with one of her children on her lap, and two others before her. There are feveral other figures and genii in the air : five feet nine inches high, by four feet five and a half wide. This picture belonged to the duke of Portland, 35 FOLK, g£$ A winter-piece, by Giacomo Baflan; three feet eight inches and a half high, by five feet eleven and three quarters. A fummer-piece, by Leonardo BafTan; three feet eight inches and a half high; by five feet eleven and thre« quarters. Thefe two were in the collection of M. de U Vrilliere. Boors at cards, by Teniers j one foot four inches high, by one foot ten inches wide. Chrift appearing to Mary in the garden, an exceeding fine picture, by Pietro da Cortoha ; one foot nine inches and a half high, by one foot eight inches wide. The judgment of Paris, by Andrea Schiavone. (Note, that all the pictures in this room, except the portraits, that have not the fizes fetdown, are very fmall.) Midas judging between Pan and Apollo, by ditto. Chrift laid in the fepulchre, one of the fineft pictures that Parmegiano ever painted, and for which there is a tradition, that he was knighted by a duke of Parma : there are eleven figures ; the expreflion, the drav/ing, and the colouring, the perfpective, and chiarofcuro, are as fine as poflible. The figure of Jofeph of Arimathea is Parmegiano's own portrait The adoration of the Magi, by Velvet Brughel: there are a multitude of little figures, all finifhed with the greateft Dutch exactnefs ; the ideas too are a little Dutch, for the Ethiopian king is drefled in a furplice with boots and fpurs, and brings for a prefent a gold model of a modern fhip. The Virgin and child, a Very pleafing picture, by Baroccio ; but the drawing is full of faults. A naked Venus fleeping, a moft perfect figure, by Annibal Caracci ; the contours and the colouring ex- ceflive fine. Head of Vanderdort, by Dobfon. St. John, a head, by Carlo Dolci. Head of Innocent X. by Velafco. A boy's head with a lute, by Cavalier Luti: Friars giving meat to the poor, by John Miel ; one foot feven and a half high, by two feet two inches wide. Its companion. Boors at cards, by Teniers. Boors drinking; its companion, by Oftade. A dying officer at confeflion, by Bourgognone j very bright colouring and fine expreflion j one foot feven inches and a half high, by two feet one inch and three quarter's wide. Its companion. Chrift laid in the fepulchre, by Giacoma Baflan, a very particular picture; the lights are laid on fo thick^ that it feems quite baflb-relievo. It is a fine defign for a great altar-piece which he has painted at Padua. This picture was a prefent to lord Orford, from James earl of Wsldegrave, knight of the garter, and ambaflador at Paris. Holy Family, by Rottenhamer. . Holy Family, with St. John on a lamb, by Williberts, a fcholar of Rubens, who has made a large picture, frorrt whence this is taken, now in the Palace Pitti, at Flo- rence : This is finely finiflied, and the colouring neater than Rubens. The Virgin and child, by Alexandro Veronefe ; painted on black marble. Three foldiers ; a fine little picture, by Salvator Rofa 9 in his brighteft manner. The Virgin with the child in her arms; by Morellio, on black marble ; a prefent from Sir Benjamin Keene^ ambaflador at Madrid. The Virgin with the child in her arms afleep, by Se- baftian Concha. Edward VI. an original fmall whole length, by Hol- bein ; Edwardus Dei gratia fextus rex Anglia, & Fran- cia, & Hibernia. Laban fearching for his images, by Sebaftian Bour- don ; three feet one inch and three quarters, by four feet four inches and a half wide. The banquetting-houfe ceiling : it is the original de- fign of Rubens for the middle compartment of that ceil- ing, and reprefents the aflumption of king James I. into Heaven. It belonged to Sir Godfrey Kneller, who P p p p ftudied NORFOLK. itudied it much, as is plain from his fketch for king William's picture in the parlour; two feet eleven inches high, by one foot nine inches and a half wide. Six fketches of Rubens for triumphal arches, &c. On the entry of the Infant Ferdinand of Auftria into Antwerp ; they are painted with a description of the feftival : they are two feet and a quarter fquare. Bathfheba bringing Abifhag to David ; an exceeding high-finifhed picture in varnifh, by Vanderwerff; a pre- feut to lord Orford from the duke of Chandos : two feet ten inches high, by two feet three wide. Two flower-pie^^^moft highly finifhed, by Van Huyfum ; two feet r?vca inches high, by two feet two Vide. Chrift and Mary in the garden, by Philippo Laura. The Holy Family, by John Bellino : it belonged to Mr. Laws. Landfcape with figures, by Bourgognone, in the man- ner of Salvator Rofa. Its companion, with foldiers. Two fmall landfcapes, byGafpar Pouffin. Over the door into the bed-chamber, the Holy Family, by Matteo Ponzoni, a moft uncommon hand, and a very fine picture; three feet feven inches and a half high, by five feet two and a half wide. Over the parlour door, the murder of the innocents, by Sebaftian Bourdon ; four feet and one half inch high, by five feet eight wide. Over the other door, the death of Jofeph, by Velafco; three feet three inches high, by four feet ten wide. St. Chriftopher, a very fmall picture, by Elfheimer. The Marble Parlour. One entire fide of this room is marble, with alcoves for fide-boards, fupported with columns of Plymouth marble. Over the chimney is a fine piece of alto- relievo in ftatuary marble, after the antique, by Ryfbrack, and before one of the tables, a large granite cittern. Henry Danvers, earl of Danby ; a fine whole length in garter robes, by Vandyke. SirThomas Wharton, brother to Philip lord Wharton, and knight of the Bath, whole length, by Vandyke, (from the Wharton collection.) Two fruit-pieces over the door, by Michael Angelo Campidoglio, from Mr. Scawen's collection. The Afcenfion, by Paul Veronefe, over a door. The Apoftles after the Afcenfion, ditto. The Hall Is a cube of forty, with a ftone gallery round three fides : the ceiling and the frieze of boys are by Altari : the bas-reliefs over the chimney and doors are from the antique. The figures over the great door, and the boys over the letter doors, are by Ryfbrack. In the frieze are bas- reliefs of Sir Robert Walpole, and Catharine, his firft lady, and of Robert lord Walpole, their elder fon, and Margaret Rolle, his wife. Over the chimney is a buft of Sir Robert Walpole, earl of Orford, by Ryfbrack. Before a nich, over-againft the chimney, is the Lao- coon, a fine caft in bronze, by Girardon, bought by lord Walpole at Paris. On the tables, the Tiber and the Nile in bronze, from the antiques in the Capitol at Rome. Two vales in bronze, from the antiques in the Villas of Medici and Borghefe at Rome. '\ he buft of a woman, a moft beautiful antique. The buft of a Roman emprefs, antique. o n terms and confolcs round the hall, are the fol- lowing bufts and heads : Marcus Aurelius, antique. Trajan, ditto. Septimus Severus, ditto. Commodus, ditto. . A young Hercules, ditto. . Baccio Bandinelli, by himfclf. Fauftina fenior, antique. A young Coinmodus, ditto. Heads. Homer, modern. Hefiod, ditto. Jupiter, antique. A philofopher, ditto. Hadrian, ditto. Pollux, ditto. Going from the Saloon, down the great fteps, through the garden, you enter a porch adorned with bufts of Rome, by Camillo Rufconi. Minerva, ditto. Antinous, ditto. Apollo Belvedere, ditto. A philofopher's head, antique. Julia Pia Severi, ditto. Out of this you go into a veftibule, round which, in the niches, are fix vafes of Volterra alabafter. This leads into The Gallery^ Which is feventy-three feet long, by twenty-one feet high ; the middle rifes three feet higher, with windows all round ; the ceiling is a defign of Serlio's in the inner library of St. Mark's at Venice, and was brought from thence by Mr. Horace Walpole, jun. the frieze is taken from the Sybils temple at Tivoli. There are two chim- nies, and the whole room is hung with Norwich damafk. It was intended originally for a green-houfe ; but on Sir Robert Walpole's refigning his employments, on the ninth of February, 1742, it was fitted up for his pictures, which had hung in the houfe at Downing-ftreet. Over the fartheft chimney is that capital picture, and the firft in this collection, the Doctors of the Church : they are confulting on the immaculatenefs of the Virgin, who is above in the clouds. In this picture, which is by Guido in his brighteft manner, and perfectly preferved, there are fix old men as large as life. The expreffion, drawing, defign, and colouring, wonderfully fine. In the clouds is a beautiful virgin all in white, and before her a fweet little angel flying ; eight feet eleven inches high, by fix feet wide. It was in the collection of the Marquis Angeli. . Over the other chimney, the Prodigal Son, by Salva- tor Rofa ; eight feet three inches high, by fix feet five and a half wide. Meleager and Atalanta, a cartoon, by Rubens, larger than life ; brought out of Flanders by general Wade : it being defigned for tapeftry, all the weapons are in the left hand of the figures ; ten feet feven inches high, by twenty feet nine and a half wide. Four markets, by Snyders ; one of fowl, and another of fifh, another of fruit, and the fourth of herbs. There are two more of them at Munich, a horfe and a flefb. market ; each fix feet nine inches and a half high, by eleven feet one and a half wide. Marcus Curtius leaping into the gulph, an exceeding fine picture, by Mola. There are multitudes of figures, fine attitudes, and great expreflions of paffion. This picture is fix feet four inches and a quarter high, by eleven feet four inches wide ; and, with the next, be- longed to Gibbins the carver. Horatius Codes defending the bridge; its companion. A lionefs and two lions, by Rubens. Nothing can be livelier, or in a greater ftile than the attitude of the lionefs ; five feet fix inches high, by eight feet wide. Architecture; it is a kind of a ftreet with various marble palaces in perfpective, like the Strada Nuova at Genoa ; the buildings and bas-reliefs are extremely fine, the latter efpecially are folike the hand of Polydore, that we fhould rather think that this picture is by this matter, than by Julio Romano, whofe it is called. There are lome figures, but very poor ones, and undoubtedly not by the fame hand as the reft of the pictures : there is an officer kneeling by a woman, who mews the Virgin and Child in the clouds fitting under a rainbow. This pic- ture was a prefent to lord Orford, from general Charles Churchill; five feet fix inches and three quarters high, by fix feet eleven inches wide. An old woman fitting in a chair, a portrait three quarters, by Rubens, bought at Mr. Scawen's fale. An N O R K. 33* An old woman reading, art extreme fine portrait, by Boll, bought at the duke of Portland's fale, when he went governor to Jamaica. Cupid burning armour, by Elifabetta Sirani, Guido' s favourite fcholar ; two feet one inch and a half high, by two feetfeven and a half wide. An ufurer and his wife, by Quintin Matfis, the black- fmith of Antwerp. This picture is finifhed with the greatell- labour and exaclnefs imaginable, and was painted for a family in France ; it differs very little from one at Windfor, which he did for Charles I. two feet eight inches and a half high, by one foot ten and three quar- ters wide. Job's friends bringing him prefents ; a fine picture, by Guido, which - he has executed in large, and in his brighteft manner, in the church of the Mendicants at Bologna : this is dark, but there is molt maftcrly fkill in the naked, and in the difpofition of the figures; three feet one inch high, by two feet four and a half wide. Europa, a fine landfcape, by Paul Brill, the figures by Dominichini ; tv/o feet five inches high, by three feet five and three quarters wide. Africa, its companion. Dives and Lazarus, by Paul Veronefe. There are few of him better than this; the building is particularly good : two feet feven inches and a half high, by three feet five wide. It belonged to Monfieur de Morville. fecretary of ftate in France. The expofition of Cyrus, by Caftiglione, a very capi- tal picture of this mailer; two feet four inches and a quarter high, by three feet fix and a quarter wide. Its companion. The adoration of the fhepherds, by Old Palma, from the collection of Monfieur de la Vrilliere, fecretary of ftatein France; two feet fix inches high, by three feet fen wide. The Holy Family, by ditto ; two feet feven inches and a quarter high, by four feet five wide, from Mon- fieur Flinck's collection. A fine moon-light landfcape, with a cart overturning, by Rubens ; two feet ten inches high, by four feet one wide. (It was lord Cadogan's.) Nymph and flie pherd, by Carlo Cignani ; three feet four inches high, by four feet one and a quarter wide. Two women, an emblematical picture, by Paris Bourdon ; three feet fix inches high, by four feet two wide; from Mr. Flinck's collection. Abraham, Sarah, and Hagar, by Pietro Cor- tona. The Great Duke has a fmall fketch of this, but reverfed, and with the Sarah and other figures at a diftance ; the Hagar is much fairer than in this; fix feet ten inches high, by fix feet one wide. Abraham's facrifice, by Rembrandt. Abraham's head, and the naked body of Ifaac, are very fine : the painter has avoided much of the horror of the ftory, by making Abraham cover the boy's face, to hide the horror from himfelf ; fix feet three inches high, by four feet three and three quarters wide. The old man and his fons with the bundle of flicks, by Salvator Rofa, in his fineft tafte; fix feet high, by four feet two and a half wide. The adoration of the fhepherds, octagon, a moft per- fect and capital picture of Guido, not inferior to the Doctors : the beauty of the Virgin, the delicacy of her and the child, (which is the fame as in the Simeon's arms in the Saloon) the awe of the fhepherds, and the Chiaro Ofcuro of the whole picture, which is in the fineft prefervation, are all incomparable. This belonged to Monfieur de la Vrilliere ; three feet three inches and a half every way. The continence of Scipio, byNicolo Pouflin ; painted with all the purity and propriety of an ancient bas-relief. This picture belonged to Monfieur de Morville, and is three feet eight inches and three quarters high, by five feet two wide. Mofes It liking the rock, by Nicolo Pouffin. There is a great fault in it ; Mofes is by no means the principal figure, nor is he ftriking the rock angrily, and with a great air, but feems rather fcraping out the water. The thiift in all the figures, the piety in the young man lift- ing his father to the ftream, and the devotion in others, are extremely fine; three feet eleven inches and a half high, by fix feet three and a half wide. The placing Chrift in the fepulchre, over the door, by Ludovico Caracci ; fix feet three inches high, by five feet one wide. Mofes in the bulrufhes, by Le Socur ; a prefent to lord Orford from the duke of Montague ; feven feet one inch high, by four feet eight and a half wide. 1 he adoration of the Magi, by Carlo Maratti, He has painted another of them in the church of the Vene- tian St. Mark at Rome; fix feet eleven inches high, by four feet four wide. Cows and fheep, by Teniers, in his beft manner ; one foot eleven, by two feet nine. Landfcape, with a cafcade and fheep ; a very fine picture, by Gafpar Pouffin. It was bought at the late earl of Halifax's fale; one foot eleven inches high, by two feet nine wide. The laft fupper, by Raphael : it is in 'fine preferva- tion ; one foot eight inches high, by two feet eight and a half wide. Solomon's idolatry, by Stella : it is painted on black and gold marble, which is left untouched in many places of the ground. There are many figures finely finifhed, and feveral beautiful airs of womens heads ; one foot teri inches high, by two feetfive and a quarter wide. A fea-port; a fine picture of Claude Lorrain. There is a bright fun playing on the water, and the whole fhine of the picture is in his very beft manner. It belonged to Monfieur Morville ; three feet one inch and a quarter high, by four feet two and a half wide. A calm fea, ditto. A moft pleafing and agreeable picture. There are two figures on the fore ground, Apollo and the Sybil ; fhe is taking up a handful of fand, for every grain of which fhe was to live a year. Apollo granted her this boon, as the price of her perfon, which afterwards fhe refufed him. The promontory is defigned for Cumas, the refidence of the Sybil. Among the build ings are the ruins of the Caftellum Aquas Martins, with the trophies of Marius, which are now placed in the Capitol : the remains of the building itfelf ftands near the Colifseum ; three feet two inches and three quarters high, by four feet one wide. Two landfcapes, by Gafpar Pouflin, in his dark man- ner; that at the upper end of the gallery is fine. Thefe two, and the latter Claude, were in the collection of the Marquis di Mari ; three feet three inches and a quarter high, by four feet five and a quarter wide each. The Ioconda, a fmith's wife, reckoned the hand- ,fomeft woman of her time : fhe was miftrefs to Francis I. king of France ; by Lionardo da Vinci. This was ; Monfieur de Morville's ; two feet nine inches high, by two feet and a quarter wide. Apollo, by Cantarini^ a contemporary of Guido, whole manner he imitated ; two feet feven inches high, by two feet and a quarter wide. The Holy Family, with angels, by Valerro Caftelli, who ftudied Vandyke ; two feet five inches high, by one foot eleven and a half wide. The Eagle and Ganymede, by Michael Angelo Buonarotti; two feet eleven inches high, by one foot eleven wide. The Virgin and Child, a moft:beautiful, bright, and. capital picture, by Dominichino ; bought out of the Zambeccari palace at Bologna, by Horace Walpole, jun. two feet four inches high, by one foot eleven and a half wide. The Salutation, a fine finifhed picture, by Albano; two feet high, by one foot fix inches and a half wide. The late emperor of Germany, when duke of Lor- rain, being in England, was entertained at Houghton with the moft magnificent repaft that was perhaps ever given in England, though there was not a fingle foreign difh in the whole entertainment; relays of horfes being provided on the roads to bring rarities from the moft re- mote parts of the kingdom, Snetfham, •S3* F O K. Snetfliam, which we vifited after viewing the magni- ficent feat of Houghton-hall, is ninety-nine miles from -London, was once a royal demefne, and enjoyed many privileges ; but has nothing now remarkable, but the feat ot Nicholas Styleman, Efq; whofe lady has here formed fome exceeding pretty plantations ; particularly thofe upon a ftream, which (he calls New-bridge and Cathe- rine's-ifland. This ftream is managed wi:h true tafte ; naturally, it is only a ditch, but where this lady has improved it, it is a winding river, and thegreateft orna- ment to her plantations. On one part of its banks {he has a very neat circular cottage for breakfafting, and near it a menagery, with a great variety of birds : in this part of the plantation are all forts of water-fowl. From her menagery you crofs the ftream, and pafs along its winding banks to the grotto, which is very prettily contrived out of a boat, by cutting it into two equal parts, and fixing it together, with a little addition : it is ftuck full of fpar, {hells, fea-weed, coral, glafs, orej &c. all difpofed with tafte and elegance. The front is pretty, but too regular, and not fumciently ruftic, com- pofed of the fame materials* on a ground of powdered fea-fhells, ftuck ih cement. The fituation is very agree- able by the fide of the river, and in the {hade of feveral large weeping willows. The ftream is ftill more beau- tiful in the other plantation called Catherine's-ifland ; it forms five little woody iflands, in which are feveral cool, fhady, fequeftered walks, in a tafte which does great honour to the fancy of this ingenious lady. The plan- tations behind the houfe have great variety* and are {trctched out with tafte; Here is a weekly market on Friday* but no annual fair. The manor of Choflel, north-eaft of Snetfham* be- longed to the brethren of St. Lazarus, who had a .mafter or preceptor of that order here. It was afterwards an- nexed to Burton Lazars* in Leieefterfhire. In the beginning of the reign of king Henry III. one William de Bee founded a chapel and an hofpital in the parifh of Billingford, near Harlefton, dedicated to St. Thomas the Martyr. It had thirteen beds for accom- modating poor travellers with lodgings. Cafte-Rifing, the next place we vifited, took its name from an old cattle near it, which, together with the town, is fituated on a high eminence, ninety-feven miles from London. It is an ancient borough by prefcription, governed by a mayor and twelve aldermen ; and though now there are fcarce twelve families in it, was formerly a confiderable place, till its harbour was choaked up with fand : here, however, is an hofpital for twelve poor me%, and an alms-houfe for twenty-four poor widows, both founded by the family of the Howards. In the neighbourhood of this town there is a park, and a large chace, with the privilege of a foreft. Caftle-Rifing, and fome of the neighbouring pariihes, retain the old Norman cuftom, by which all teftaments mutt, be proved before the parfon of the parifh. This town fends two members to parliament, but has neither market nor fair. At Flitcham, on the eaft fide of Caftle-Rifing, there was a priory or hofpital of the order of St. Auguftine, fubordinate to Walfingham, to which it was given by Dametta de Flitcham, niece to Emma de Bellofago, in the time of king Richard I. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed at the diflblution with fifty- five pounds five (hillings and fix-pence per annum. Lynn Regis, or King's Lynn, to which we patted from Caftle-Rifing, is thus called to diftinguifti it from three villages in this county, called Weft Lynn, North Lynn, and Old Lynn. Lynn Regis, or King's Lynn, was formerly called Bifhop's Lynn, becaufe it belonged to the bifhop of Norwich ; but having come, by ex- change, into the hands of king Henry VIII. it aflumed its prefent name. This town is ninety-eight miles from London, and was a borough by prefcription before the time of king John, who, becaufe it adhered to him againft the barons, made it a free borough, with large privileges ; appointed it a provoft, and gave it a filver cup of about eight ounces, double gilt and enamelled, and four large filver maces that are carried before the mayor. K. Henry VIII. 's fword, which he gave to the town, when it fell into his hands, by exchange with the bifhop of Norwich, is alfo carried before the mayor. King Henry III. made it a mayor town for its fervices to him againft the barons ; and in the late civil war, it held out for king Charles I. and fuftained a formal fiege againft upwards of eighteen thoufand men, for above three weeks ; but for want of relief, was obliged to furrender, and pay ten {hillings a he- Q.q q q ceedingly N O R F O L K. ceedingly beautiful. The bronzes are very fine, and the collection of prints a capital one. As to pictures, there are a confiderable number, but the following are the moft remarkable. As to the mafters names, we mi- nute them as they pafs at Narford, and without anfwer- ing for their originality. We hint this, becaule the moft pleafing picture in the houfe, the Virgin and Child, /aid to be by Guide, is precifely the fame in figures, at- titude, airs, Sec as Mr. Butler's Coneggio, as appears by a print of the latter. However, whether it is a copy or an original, the colouring is fine, and the air of the head and attitude admirably graceful. A fruit-piece by Snyders, the figures by Rubens ; very good. Chrift taken down from the crofs ; ex- ceedingly fine, the mufcles ftrongly expreffed. Albano. St. Jerome : the head fine, but the itile dark and un- pleafing. Tintoretto. Children of Ifrael gathering manna ; fine. Bloemart. Marriage of Cana ; a ftriking inftance of wretched grouping. Old Franc. Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn at a concert ; very fine. Holbein. Two old men's heads ; ftrongly expreffive. Qtiin. Matfis. Pharaoh's daughter finding Mofes ; one of the beft pieces of this indifferent mafter. Pelligrino. The library is a very elegant one for a private gen- tleman. Dereham, Market-Dereham, or Dereham-Eaft, thus diftinguifhed from a village named Dereham, near Down- ham. It is a fine large town, with feveral hamlets be- longing to it, and diftant from London ninety-feven miles. St. Wilburga, the youngeft daughter of king Anna, founded a monaftery here, before the year 74.8, which was deftroyed by the Danes. This town has a weekly market on Fridays, and three annual fairs, viz. the third of February, and the twen- ty-eight of September, for cattle and toys. In 1 1 88, Hubert, then dean of York, but afterwards archbifhop of Canterbury, built at Weft- Dereham an abbey for Premonftratenfian canons, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and valued, upon the diffolution, at two hundred and twenty-eight pounds per annum. At Wendling, on the weft fide of Eaft-Dereham, there was an abbey of the Premonftratenfian order, built by William de Wendling, clerk, before the fifty-fecond year of king Henry III. and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Not long before the diffolution, here were an abbot and four canons, who had revenues valued at fifty-five pounds eighteen fhillings and four-pence per annum. Repeham was formerly famous for having three churches in one church-yard, belonging to three feveral lordfhips ; .but they have been long demolifhed, fo that there is now only the ruins of one remaining. This town is one hundred and eleven miles diftant from Lon- don : the chief trade carrisd on here is in malt, of which great quantities are fold in its weekly market, held on Saturday. Here is an annual fair on the twenty-ninth of June, for ordinary horfes and petty chapmen. St. Bennets in the Holm, fouth-eaft of Repeham, was given by a petty prince, called Horn, to a fociety of reli- gious Heremites, under the government of Suneman, about the year 800, who built a chapel here; but thofe religious were all deftroyed by the Danes in 870. In the next century, a religious, named Wolfric, brought iome other religious to this place, and rebuilt the chapel and houfes ; and before the year io?o, king Canute endowed this place for an abbey of Black monks, dedi- cated to St. Benedict, the revenues of which, upon the diffolution, were valued at five hundred and eighty-three pounds feventeen fhillings per annum. This monaftery was fo fortified by the monks, that it was more like a coftle than a cloifter, and held out fo long againft Wil- liam the Conqueror, that he could not take it, and it was at laft betrayed to him by one of the monks, on con- dition that he fhould be made an abbot ; but inftead of being rewarded, he was hanged by the Conqueror for his treachery. At Montjoy, fouth-vveft of Repeham, William dt Gifneto, in the time of king John, founded a chapel, dedicated to St. Laurence, and gave it to the prior and convent of Windham, who fettled in it a prior and fe-' veral Black canons. Cafton, or Cawfton, is a fmall town, remarkable only for a bridge over a little river called the Hare. It is diftant one hundred and twenty-eight miles from Lon- don, has a weekly market on Tuefday, and three an- nual fairs, viz. the tenth of January, the fourteenth of April, and the twenty-eighth of Auguff, for llieep and petty chapmen. Loddon contains nothing that merits notice. Its diftance from London is one hundied and five miles. It has a weekly market -on Friday, and three annual fairs, viz. Eafter-Monday, ior petty chapmen ; Monday after Martinmas, and the eleventh of November, for horfes and hogs. At Thurton, near Loddon, feveral Roman coins have been dug up at different times. Bifhop Herbert, or Agnes de Belfo, the wife of Ro- bert de Ria, in the time of king Henry I. gave the church of St. Mary at Alaby, fouth-weft of Loddon, upon the borders of Suffolk, to the cathedral monaftery of Norwich ; upon which there were placed a prior and three Black monks, as a cell to that houfe, which con- tin ued till the diffolution. At Longby, north of Loddon, in 1198, an abbey of Premonftratenfian canons was built and endowed by Ro- bert Fitz-Roger Helk, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in which were fifteen religious at the fupprefiion, when their yearly revenues were rated at one hundred and four pounds fixteen fhillings and five-pence. At Ravehingham, fouth-weft of Loddon, Sir John of Norwich, knight, about the feventeenth of Ed- ward III. founded a chauntry or college of eight fecular priefts, who were to perform divine Tervice in the pa- rifh-church of St. Andrew. But this college was, not long after, removed to the neighbouring village of Nor- ton-Sub-Crofs, where a chapel, and other neceflary buildings for the priefts, were erected, the number of which, in 1387, were thirteen ; but in the feventeenth year of Richard II. they were once more tranflated to the caftLe of Mettingham, near Bangay, a market-town of Suffolk. Windham, orWimundham, to which we next paffed, is a fmall town, at the diftance of ninety-nine miles from London. The inhabitants are generally employed in making of fpiggots and foffets, fpindles, fpoons, and other wooden ware. They enjoy their writ of privilege, as an ancient demefne, from ferving at affizes or feffions. Here is a houfe of correction, the keeper of which, in the reign of queen Elizabeth, had forty fhillings a year paid him by the treafurer of the county. There is a free-fchool in this town, founded and well endowed by Henry I. 's butler ; and Matthew Parker, archbifhop of Canterbury, gave a fcholarfhip in his college of Corpus Chriffi in Cambridge, in favour of a fcholar born in this town, provided he continued in Windham fchool two years, without interruption, and was fifteen years old. Here isalfo a charity-fchool for teaching thirty children. This town was fet on fire on the eleventh of June 1615, by certain incendiaries, when above three hundred dwelling-houfes were confumed ; and in 1631, it was vifited by a fevere peftilence. Before the year 1107, William de Albini, or Dau- beney, chief butler to Henry I. founded a priory of Black monks here, from the abbey of St. Albans, to which it was a cell till 1443, when it was made an abbey. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and at the diffo- lution had ten or twelve monks, whofe yearly revenues were valued at two hundred and eleven pounds fixteen fhillings and fix-pence. Here is a weekly market, held on Friday ; and three annual fairs, viz. the fecond of February, the fixth of May, and the feventh of September, for horfes, lean cattle, and petty chapmen. Hingham had the misfortune, about the beginning of this century, to be burnt down j but it was foon rebuilt in a much handfomer manner, and the inhabitants were, not NOR tiot many years ago, reckoned a genteel fort of people, and fo fafhionable, that this town was called in the neighbourhood Little London. It is ninety-four miles diftant from London, has a weekly market on Saturday, and an annual fair on the tenth of June, for horfes and petty chapmen. Watton is remarkable for the fmallnefs of its church, which is only twenty yards long, and eleven broad ; and the fteeple, which has three large bells, is round at bot- tom, and octangular at top. This town is eighty-nine miles diftant from London. In 1673, a dreadful fire happened here, by which upwards of fixty houfes were burnt down. Great quantities of butter are fent from hence to Downham-bridge, from whence it is fent by water to London. This town has a weekly market held on Wednefday, and three annual fairs, viz. the twenty-ninth of June, the twenty-ninth of September, and the twenty-eight of October, for toys, &c. Maud, countefs of Clare, having given the churches t>f St. Peter and St. John Baptift, at Carbrook, near Watton, to the knights of St. John of Jerufalem, in the time of Henry II. fome fifters of their order were placed in an hofpital near the fmaller church, but they were afterwards removed, and a preceptor of a mafter and feveral brethren continued here till the diflblution, when the eftate belonging to it was valued at fixty-five pounds two (hillings and eleven-pence per annum. In the twenty-third of Edward III. Sir Thomas de Shardelow, knight, and his brother John, eftablifhed and endowed a perpetual chauntry or college, of a mafter and five chaplains, in the parilh-church of Thomfon, ibuth of Watton, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and All Saints ; and, upon the diflblution, endowed with fifty-two pounds fifteen fhillings and feven-pence per enmon. Fakenham, which we next vifited, is a fmall, clean town, and had anciently falt-pits, though fix miles from the fra. On a hill in the neighbourhood, are kept the fherifps-term, and a court for the whole county. It is diftant one hundred and ten miles from London, and has two weekly markets, held on Tuefday and Thurfday ; the latter for cattle. At Hempton, a little village not half a mile diftant from hence, are two annual fairs, viz. Whitfun-Tuef- day, and the twenty-fecond of November, for horfes and cattle. Here was formerly an ancient hofpital, dedi- cated to St. Stephen, which afterwards became a fmall priory of three or four canons of the order of St. Auftin. It is faid to have been founded by Roger de St. Martino in the time of Henry I. and its pofleflions, upon the dif- folution, were valued at thirty-two pounds fourteen fhil- lings and eight- pence per annum. In the parifh of South Rainham, near Fakenham, at a place called Normannefberch, was a cell of Cluniac monks, belonging to the priory of Caftle-acre, dedi- cated to St. Mary and St. John the Evangelift, and founded by William de Lifewis, about the year 1 160. Near Cokesford, north -weft of Fakenham, Hervey Belet, in the beginning of the reign of king John, founded an hofpital for a warden, being a prieft, and thirteen poor people, dedicated to St. Andrew. We now directed our courfe towards the fea-coaft, in order to vifit Clay, a fea-port town, near which are large falt-works, whence fait is not only vended all over the countv, but fometimes exported in confiderable quantities to Holland and the Baltic. This town is one hundred and fifteen miles from London, has a weekly market, held on Saturday, and an annual fair on the nineteenth of July, for horfes, &c. The manor of Wells, between Clay and Burnham, being c;iven to the abbey of St. Stephen, near Caen in Normandy, by William de Streis, in the time of Wil- liam the Conqueror, here was fixed an alien priory of Benedictine monk- from that foreign houfe ; but king Edward IV. gave it to the dean and chapter of St. Ste- phen's, Weftminfter, who enjoyed it till the general dillblutien. Foulflham is a little obfeure town of no note, at the diftance of one hundred and two miles from London, has FOLK. 33 g a market on Tuefdays, and an annual fair on Eafter- Tuefday, for petty chapmen. At Linge, fouth of Foulfham, there was a nunnery at or near the chapel of St. Edmund, from whence the re- ligious were removed, in 1 160, to Thetford. Secky, or Seecking, is diftant ninety-four miles from London, aud is remarkable only for a good market once a fortnight, for the fale of fat bullocks. It has likewife a weekly market, held on Tuefday. At Shouldham, fouth-eaft of Secky, Jeffrey Fitz- Piers, earl of Eflex, in the time of king Richard It founded a Gilbertine mOnaftery for canons and nuns s under the government of a prior. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed, at the flipprefRon, with one hundred and thirty-eight pounds eighteen fhillings and a penny per annum. There was likewife a priory of Black canons at Worm- gay, or Wrangay, near Secky, built by William, the ion of Reginald de Warren, in the time of K. Richard I. or king John, dedicated to the Virgin Mary> the Holy Crofs, and St. John the Evangelift j and in 14684 united to the priory of Pentney. At Hardwich, in the parifh of North Rungton, near Secky, there was an hofpital for leprous perfons, dedi- cated to St. Laurence. Attleborough was anciently not only a city, but the chief town of the county, and had a palace and colle- giate church. It is ninety-three miles diftant from Lon- don, and is ftill a confiderable town, has a good weekly market for fat bullocks, fheep, and other cattle, held oh Thurfday ; and three annual fairs, viz. the eleventh of April, Holy Thurfday, and the fifteenth of Auguft, for cattle and toys. The executors of Sir Robert Mortimer, knight, ac- cording to his will, built a chauntry or college, in the parifh-church of Attleborough, dedicated to the Exalt- ation of the Crofs ; and endowed the fame for a mafter or warden, and fourfecular priefts, about the feventh of Henry IV. the revenues of it, upon the diflblution, were valued at only twenty-one pounds fixteen fhillings and three"-pence per annum. Harlefton is a little dirty town, fituated on the river Waveney, over which there is a bridge, at the diftance of ninety-four miles from London, It has a weekly market on Wednefday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fifth of July, and the ninth of September, for horfes, cattle, fheep, and petty chapmen. In the beginning of the reign of king Henry III. one William de Bee founded a chapel and an hofpital in the parifh of Billingford, near Harlefton, dedicated to St. Thomas the Martyr. It had thirteen beds for accom- modating poor travellers with lodgings. Difle is a fmall town, fituated on the river Waveney, in the moft foutherly part of this county, at the diftance of ninety-three miles from London, and has a charity- fchool, the only thing worthy of notice. Here is a weekly market held on Friday, and an an- nual fair on the twenty-eighth of October, for cattle and toys. Buckenham is thus called by way of diftinctiort from Old Buckenham, a village in its neighbourhood : they are fuppofed to have derived the name of Buckenham from the great number of bucks in the neighbouring woods. Here was formerly a fine ftrong caftle ; and the lords of this manor claim the privilege of being butlers at the coronation of our kings. This town is feventy- nine miles diftant from London, and has a weekly mar- ket on Saturday, and two yearly fairs, viz. the twenty- ninth of May, for cheefe and cattle; and the twenty- fecond of November, for cheefe and toys. William de Albini, earl of Chichefter or Arundel, in the time of king Stephen, built a priory of Black ca- nons, dedicated to St. James the Apoftle, at Old Bucken- ham. About the time of the diflblution, here were a prior and eight canons, who had revenues to the yearly amount one hundred and eight pounds ten fhillings and two-pence. Eaft Hading is thus diftinguifhed in refpect of its fitu- ation to two villages lying weft of it, called Weft Har- ling and Middle Harling. It is diftant eighty-eight miles froth NORFOLK. from London, and has a weekly market held on Tuefday, chiefly for linen yarn and linen cloth ; and two annual fairs, viz. the fourth of May, for cattle and toys , and the twenty-fourth of October, for fheep and toys; At Rufhworth, on the fouth-weft fide of Eaft Har- ling, about the year 1342* St. Edmund de Gonville, reftor of this parifh, upon the fite of the parfonage- houfe, built a chapel or college for a mafter or warden, and fix fecular priefts. It was dedicated to St. John the Evangelift, and rated, on the fuppreflion, at eighty-five pounds fifteen fhillings per annum. Thetford, which we next vifited, took its name from its fituation upon a fmall river called the Thet. It is divided by the Little Oufe, which alfo divides the coun- ties of Suffolk and Norfolk, and ftands in a pleafant open country, at the diftance of eighty miles from London. In 672", the arch bi (hop of Canterbury held a fynod here. The Saxon kings made it the metropolis of the kingdom of the Eaft Angles, but it was three times ruined by the Danes. The chief magiftrate found here at the Conqueft, was ftiled a conl'ul, whence it is fuppofed to have been a Roman town. In the twelfth century, it was the fee of a bifhop, and then was, a place of great note, but de- clined on the tranflation of the fee to Norwich ; yet in the reign of Henry VIII. it was a place of fuch confe- quence, as to be made a fuffragan fee to Norwich, but it continued fo only during that reign. It had formerly a mint, and was incorporated by queen Elizabeth, with a mayor, recorder, ten aldermen, twenty common-councilmen, two of whom are gene- rally chamberlains, a town-olerk, a fword-bearer, and two ferjeants at mace ; and the Lent aflizes for Norfolk are commonly held in its guild- hail. It is a pretty large town, though not fo populous as it was in the time of Edward III. when it had twenty churches, fix hofpitals, and eight monafteries. There now remains only three churches, one on the Suffolk, and two on the Norfolk fide of the town. In the reign of king James I. an act of parliament paffed for founding an hofpital and a grammar-fchool here, and for main- taining a preacher, to preach four days in the year for ever, agreeable to the will of Sir Richard Tulmerfton. Sir Jofeph Williamfon, fecretary of ftate to K. Charles II. built a council-houfe here, and gave the- corporation a fword and a mace. Here are a common gaol, a bride- well, and a workhoufe ; and there is an hofpital for fix poor perfons, built and endowed by Sir Charles Har- bord, and his fon William, for ninety-nine years. The chief manufacture in this town is woollen cloth. The Oufe is navigable hither from Lynn, by lighters and barges. This place has been honoured with the prefence of many of our fovereigns, particularly Henry I. and II. Queen Elizabeth, and king James I. made it one of their hunting-feats; and king James had a palace here, which is (till called the King's Houfe. In the church of St. Mary at Thetford, there was a fociety of religious perfons as early as the reign of king Edward the Confeflbr, if not before; and hither Ar- faftus, bifhop of the Eaft Angles, removed his epifcopal feat from North Elmham, in 1075, as was before ob- ferved ; but continued here only nineteen or twenty years, and then was tranflated to Norwich ; after which, about the year 1104, a monaftery for Cluniac monks was built here by Roger Bigod, or Bigot, and made fuh- ordinate to the abbey of Cluney in France ; but this houfe and place being found inconvenient, the fame Roger Bigod began a moft ftately monaftery without the town, and on the other, fide of the river, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. This monaftery was finifhed in 1114, and was made denifon the fiftieth of Edward III. and, upon the diflblution, was found to be endowed with yearly revenues to the amount of three hundred and twelve pounds fourteen fhillings and four-pence. A priory of canons regular, of the order of the Holy Sepulchre, or the Crofs, vva3 founded in a church here, dedicated to St. Sepulchre, by William, third earl of Warren, in the time of king Stephen. Here were fix religious at the time of the fuppreffion, who had thirty-nine pounds fix (hillings and eight-pence pr* annum. On the Suffolk fide of this - town, there was an an- cient houfe of regular canons, dedicated to St. George; but being ruinous and forlaken, Hugh dc Norwold ab- bot, and the convent of St. Edmund's-Bury in Suffolk, placed nuns here ; and 1 - at- the diflblution there was a priorefs and ten Black nuns, who had eftates worth forty pounds eleven fhillings and two-pence per annum. Without this town there was an hofpital, dedicated to St. Mary, or St. Mary Magdalen, endowed upon ths fuppreflion with no more than one pound thirteen fhil- lings and fix -pence per annum. Here was an hofpital, called Godls Houfe, before the twenty-fourth of Ed- ward I. . A houfe of Friars Preachers is faid to have been founded in this town by Henry, earl, and afterwards duke of Lancafter, towards the beginning of the reign c£ king Edward III. In the time of king Richard II. here was an houfe of Friars Auguftines, founded by John of Gaunt, duke cf Lancafter. Here was a college, confifting of a mafter and fel- fows, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued at one hundred and nine pounds and feven-pence per annum^ at the fup- preflion. Thetford arofe from the ruins of the ancient Sitoma- gus, a Roman city, which was deftroyed by the Dane?, Here are ftill vifible many macks of great antiquity* particularly a large mount called CatUe-Hill, thrown up. to a great height, and fortified by a double rampart^ fuppofed to have been a Danilh camp. This, town fends two mtmbers to parliament, has a.- weekly market on Saturdays, and three annual fairs* viz. the fourteenth of May, the fecond of Auguft, and the twenty-fifth of September, for cheefe, cattle, and toys.. Methwold, the next town we vifited, is remarkable? for breeding excellent rabbits, called Mewil rabbits- It is diftant from London ninety-feven miles,, and has a weekly market, held on Thurfday, and an annual fair on the twenty-fifth of April, for cattle and toys. At a place called Stevefholm, then an ifland in th« parifh of Methwold, William earl Warren, about the year I2Z2, placed a prior and fome Cluniac monks;, and here was a cell or hofpital, dedicated to the Virgin- Mary, and fubordinate to Caftle-acre. There was likewife at Bromhill, near Methwold, a. priory of Auftin canons, dedicated to the Virgin Mary,, and St. Thomas the Martyr, . in > the beginning of the reign of king Henry III. but- fuppreffed in May 15283. by a bull of Pope Clemen t... At a place called Newbridge, north-eafl of Meth- wold, there was a chapel, dedicated to St. Mary and St. Laurence, with a fmall religious houfe adjoining,, in which lived a mafter and brethren, lepers, about the year 1373 ; but afterwards a mafter, wardens and friars,. Heremites, about the year 1449 ; and in procefs of time,, it fo decayed, that upon the diflblution, it was valued,, as a free chapel, at only three pounds feven fhillings and fix- pence per annum. Downham took its name from its hilly fituation, and is commonly called Downham-Market, becaufe of its being a market-town. It ftands upon the Great Oufe,, at the diftance of eighty-nine miles from London. It has a bridge, though but an indifferent one, over the Oufe, and a port for barges„ Here is a weekly market held on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-feventh of April, for horfes and toys ; and the fecond of. November, for toys. In the chapel of St. Mary de Bello Loco, faid to lie near Downham, there was a priory of Benedictine monks,, who, in the twenty-fourth year of Henry VI. were united to the monaftery of Ely, in Cambridge- shire. In the parifh of Wearham, fouth-eaft of Down~ ham, there was a Benedictine prioty, as ancient as the time of king Richard I. or king John, fubordi- nate to the convent of Muftcrell, in the diocefe of Amiens,-, N O R F O L K. 327 Amiens in France, which convent fold it, in 1321, to one Hugh Scarlet of Lincoln, who gave it to the abbey of Weft Dereham. It was dedicated to St. Wimwaloe, or St. Guenold. At Medney, in the parifh of Helgay, near Downham, there was a fmall priory of Black, monks, with a cell to Ramfey abbey, in Huntingdonfhire. Curious Plants growing in Norfolk. Sea Orrache with fmall bafil leaves; A 'triplex tnarithna noftras Oclma minoris folio-, found near King's Lynn. The fweet-fmelling Flag, or Calamus; Acorus verus five calamus officinarium, Park ; obferved in the river Yare, near Norwich. - Spanifh Catchfly ; Mufcipula falamantica major, Park ; found in great plenty by the way-fide, between Barton- mills and Thetford. Branched River-fponge ; Spsngia ramofa fiuviatilis ; obferved in the river Yare, near Norwich. Tower-muftard ; Turritis, Ger. Grows in the hedges between Norwich and Yarmouth. Hoary Mallein ; Verbafcum pulverulentum flore luteo parvo, J. B. Met with about the walls of Norwich. Shrub Stone-crop ; Vermicular is frutex minor ; Ger. found upon the fea-coaft of Norfolk. Roman Nettle ; Urtica Romana, Ger. found at Yar- mouth^ in lanes not far from the key. Curiosities, &c. in Norfolk, not msntiened in the foregoing Account. The Great Oufe, in this county, is remarkable for its fudden and impetuous inundations, particularly at the full moon in the autumnal and vernal equinoxes ; when a vaft body of water runs up againft the ftream, through the channel of this river, with prodigious vio- lence, overflowing the banks:, and fweeping ofF every thing in its way. The kingdom of the Eaft- Angles, from its firft con- verfion to Chriftianity, was under one bifhop, till about the year 673, when it was divided into four dipcefes ; and one of the epifcopal feats was fixed at North Elm- ham, a village on the north fide of Repeham. Here was a coiiftant fucceffion of ten bifkops, till tb*; martyr- dom of Humbert by the Danes, in 870. About the year 950, the other fee, which was at Dunwich, a bo- rough town of Suffolk, appears to have been united with this at Elmham, the jurifdicliion of which extended, over the whole Eaft-Anglian kingdom. This bifhopric was tranflated from hence to Thetford in the year J 075, and from thence it was foon after removed to Norwich ; and the above manor continued part of the revenues of the bifhopric of Norwich, till the diffolution. Remarks on the Sea-Coast of Norfolk. The coaft of Norfolk is remarkable for being one of the moil dangerous and fatal to mips of any round the whole. This is fufHciently evident to the traveller ; for moft of the fheds, out-houfes, pales, partitions, and the like, for twenty miles along the more, from Winterton- nefs to Cromer, are made out of the wrecks of mips, and exhibit the melancholy ruins of the merchants and failors fortune ; and in fume places there are even large piles of wrecks, laid up for the purpofes of building. There are no lefs than eight light-houfes, kept flaming every night, within the diftance of about fix. miles \ two of which are near Goulfton, between Yarmouth and Leoftoffe ; two more at Caftor, a little to the north of Yarmouth ; two more at Winterton town ; one more on Winterton-nefs, the moft eafterly point of land in Norfolk, and called the Lower Light ; and the laft ftill farther to the northward, where the fhore falling ofF to the north-weft, warns the failor, as he comes from the north, to keep off" from the more, that he may weather the nefs of Winterton, and go clear of the land into Yarmouth roads ; for from that point the fhore falls off for near fixty miles to the weft, as far as Lynn and Bofton. There are alfo abundance of fea-marks, bea- cons, and other objects, erected along the fhore, from Yarmouth to Cromer ; for if fhips coming from the northward are taken with a hard gale of wind on any point between the north-eaft and fouth-eaft, fo that they cannot weather Winterton-nefs, they are kept in Cromer bay, formed between Winterton-nefs and the Spurn- head, in Yorkfhire ; and if the wind blows hard, are often in danger of running afhore upon the rocks about Cromer, or ftranding on the flat fhore between Cromer and Wells. They have nothing, in that cafe, to truftto, but their anchors and cables, to ride out the ftorm, un- lefs they have the good fortune to run into Lynn or Bofton ; but this is very difficult to be done in bad wea- ther, and a dark night. Great numbers of mips have been loft in attempting this; particularly in the year 1696, when near two hundred fail of colliers and coaft- ers, being too far embayed to weather Winterton-nefs, flood away for Lynn deeps ; but mining their way in the night, they were all driven on fhore, dafhed to pieces, and near a thoufand peTfons perifhed. Ships bound to the northward are in the fame danger ; for if, after pafling by Winterton-nefs, they are taken fhort with a north- eaft wind, and cannot put back into Yarmouth roads, which very often happens, they are driven on the fame coaft, and embayed in the fame manner. Members of Parliament for this County. Norfolk fends twelve members to parliament ; two knights of the fhirefor the county, two citizens for Nor- wich; and two burgefTes for each of the following bo- roughs, Lynn-Regis, Yarmouth, Thetford, and Caftle- rifing. ff 36 R t r i C A M- C 33^ J € A M E R I D G E S H I R E, THIS county is bounded on the weft by Hunting- donfhire and Bedfordfhire ; on the fouth, by Hert- fcrdfhire and Effex ; on the north, by Lincolnfhire ; and on the eaft, by Norfolk and Suffolk. It extends about forty miles in length from north to fouth, twenty- five in breadth from eaft to weft, and one hundred and thirty in circumference, containing about five hundred and feventy thoufand acres. It is divided into feventeen hundreds, in which are one city, nine market-towns, one hundred and fixty-three parifhes, about feventeen thoufand four hundred houfes, and eighty-nine thoufand inhabitants. It lies- in the province of Canterbury,- and diocefe of Ely, except a fmall part, which is in the dio- cefe of Norwich. Cambridgefhire is one of the Counties that was an- ciently inhabited by the Iceni, who by fome are fup- pofed to have derived their name from the Britifh word, Iken, a wedge, the country which they inhabited having a wedge-like figure. Others,, with- apparently more reafon, derive the name, Iceni, from the Ifle, now called the Oufe, which runs through this part of the ifland. It has been common for the people of all countries to diftinguifh themfelves by the name of' the river near which they firft fettled : thus, in Afia, the Indians were named from the river Indus ; in Greece, the Mceonians from the Mceonia;- in Scythia, the Alensa from the Alanus ; in Germany, the Alfatians from Alfa;, in France, the Sequa-ni from theSequana; and in England, the Lancaftrians from the Lun or Lon ; and the Nor- thumbrians, from the H umber.- The. change of Ife into Ice, was very natural and cafy, becaufe the Britons, in- ftead of the Greek 5, ufed ch, and wrote Ichen for Ifan y Soch for Sus, and Buck for Bous. Under what divifion Cambridgefhire, and the other counties inhabited by the Iceni, fell, when Britain be- came a Roman province, is not certainly known ; but it is generally believed to have been Flavia Caefarienfis, though the Notitia of the Weftern Empire places the Tribantes and Simeni, or Iceni, in the Britannia-Se- cunda. When the Saxons fettled their heptarchy, the Iceni was included in the kingdom of the Eaft- Angles. The inhabitants of the fenny part of the county of Cambridge, now called the Ifle of Ely, and of the reft of the great level in Huntingdonfhire, Northampton- Ihire, and Lincolnfhire, were, in the time of the Saxons, diftinguifhed by the name of Gervii, or Fen-men ; and the county was then in fuch a condition, that thefe Gervii ufed to walk aloft on a kind of ftilts,- to keep them out of the water and flime. There is a kind of happy prejudice which has fuch a remote kindred to virtue, as bigotry has to religion, by which men are induced to confider their own country, whatever are its difad vantages, as the beft in the world; and it would riot have been ftrange, if thefe walkers on ftilts, who breathed the noxious vapour of ftagnant water inftead of air, had regarded thofe who walked upon the ground in an happier fituation, with an air of contempt; efpecially as the fruitfulnefs of the country, when the river3 were not obftrufted, made them rich ; but Camden fays, '* They were a rugged, uncivilized race, who, though ** they did not repine at their own fituation, at leaft envied that of their neighbours, whom they called «* Upland Men, not however as a name of honour, but " diftindion." R I V E R S. The principal river of this county is the Oufe, or Ife, which, running from weft to eaft, divides it into two parts. The little river Cam runs through the middle of the county, from fouth to north, and falls into the Oufe at Streatlummere, near Thetford, by Ely. The- Oufe derives its name from Ifis, as will be defcribed- in- Bed'- fordfhire. The Cam is fuppofed to have been fo called from its winding courfe, the Britifh word, Cam, fignify— ing, crooked ; fo a river in Cornwall, that is remarkable for its irregularity, is called the Camel. Befides thefe rivers, there are many channels and drains ; for almoft all the water from the middle of Eng- land, except what is difcharged by the Thames and the Trent,, falls into part of this county. They have beea. called the Gleane, the Welland, the Neane, the Grant,, the Mildenhall, the Brundon, and the Stoake, befides the water called Moreton's Learn, which is now navi- gable from Peterborough to Wifbich.. R.emarh ontbe Inland Navigation ^Cambridgefhire,, The only rivers navigable in this county are the Oufer and the Cam. The former falls into the German ocean- at Lynn-Regis, in Norfolk, and is navigable all the way through Huntingdonfhire to. Bedford. The Cam falls into the Oufe at Thetford, a village in Cambridgefhire, : and is navigable to the town of Cambridge; lb that: there is a communication by water between Cambridge? and Lynn. This navigation paffes by the city of Ely, and a number of fmall places in this county; and by means of it a very confiderable trade is carried on from Lynn to places in this and the adjacent counties of Hun- tingdon and Bedford. The navigation has, however, all the advantages it is capable of. The current of the river is often fo rapid, that it is not without great diffi- culty the horfes can draw the boats up againft it. The navigation is alfo frequently obftru£ted by floods ; but,, with thefe imperfections, it- is of great fervice to the county.. AIR and SOI L. A. confiderable trail of land in this county is diftin- guifhed by the name of the Ifle of Ely. It confifts oC fenny ground, divided by innumerable channels and drains, and is part of a very fpacious level, containing, three hundred thoufand acres of land, and extending from this county into Norfolk, Suffolk, Huntingdon- fhire, Northamptonfhire, and Lincolnfhire. The Ifle of Ely is the northern divifion of the county, and ex- tends fouthward almoft as far as Cambridge. The whole level, of which this is part, is bounded on one fide by the fea, and on the others by uplands, which taken together, form a rude kind of femicircle, refemb- ling a horfe-fhoe. 1 This level is generally fuppofed to have been over- flowed in fome violent convulfion of nature : a preter- natural fwelling of the fea, or an earthquake, which left the country flooded with a lake of freih water, has fre- quently happened in other places. It is certain that the fens of Cambridgefhire were once very different from, what they are now. William Somerfet, who was a. monk of the abbey of Malmfbury, in Wiltfhire, and was therefore called William of Malmfbury, an hiftorian of great credit,, who wrote in the twelfth century, fays, that in his time this country was a terreftrial paradife. He defcribes it as a plain that was level and fmooth as water, covered with perpetual verdure, and adorned with a great variety of tall, fmooth, taper and fruitful trees : here, fays he, is an orchard bending with apples, and there is a field covered with vines, either creeping upon the ground, or fupported by poles. In this place art alfo feems to vie with nature, each being impatient to beftow what the other vvith-holds. The building^ are beautiful beyond defcription, and there is not an inrii of ground that is not cultivated to the higheft degree. Itmuft however be remarked, that Willi?ui of Ma'mf- burg* C A M B it I E> G E S H I R E. bury, who was himfelf a reclufe In another part of the ifland, is here defcribing the county about Thomey- Abbey, which was the dwelling of other folitary devotees like himfelf. He therefore defcribed a place which it is probable he never faw, and which his zeal might induce him to mention in the moft advantageous terms. It muft alio be obferved, that he defcribes the country as a level, and mentions marfhes and fens, though he fays the marfhes were covered with wood, and the fens afforded the moft ftable and folid foundation for the buildings that were erected npon them. It muft alfo be remarked, that the celebrated Abbo Floriacenfis, an hiftorian of the year 970, near two hundred years before William of Malmfbury, in a de- fcription of the kingdom of the Eaft-Angles, in which this county lies, fays, that it is encompaffed on the north with large wet fens, which begin almoft in the heart of the ifland ; and the ground being a perfect level for more than an hundred miles, the waters of thefe fens defcend in great rivers to the fea. He adds, that thefe large fens make a prodigious number of lakes, which are two or three miles over; and by forming a variety of iflands, accommodate great numbers of monks with their defired folitude and retirement. That the flat country might eafily be overflowed to a great extent, merely by an accidental obftrudtion of the rivers through which the waters of the fens were carried oft", is very evident ; and that fuch an inundation actually happened there, is indubitable evidence, yet moreauthentic than that of any hiftory ; for timber trees of feveral kinds have been found rooted in firm earth, below the flime and mud that lie immediately under the water. In other places a perfect foil has been found at the depth of eight feet, with fwaithes of grafs lying upon it as they were firft mowed. Brick and ftone, and other materials ffor building, have alfo been found at a confiderable depth, by the workmen who were employed in digging drains for the water; and in fetting a fluice, there was found, fixteen feet below the furface, a complete fmith's forge, with all the tools belonging to it. And when the chan- cel at Wifbich was repaired and improved, in the year 163 5, there was found, eight feet below the bottom, a ftratum of firm ground, which had once been the bed of the river, as appeared by many large ftones and old boats which were lying upon it, and had been buried in the flime. But whatever was the condition of this country and its inhabitants before the inundation, it was undoubtedly extremely bad afterwards ; the waters ftagnating for want of proper channels to run off, became putrid, and filled the air with noxious exhalations ; the inhabitants of the neighbouring town could have no communication with each other by land, and a communication by water was in many places difficult, and in others impracticable ; for though the water covered the ground to a confiderable height, yet it was fo choaked by mud, fedge, and reeds, that a boat could not every where make way through it ; and in the winter, when the furface was fo frozen as to prevent all navigation, and yet not hard enough to bear horfes, the inhabitants of many iflands among thefe fens were in danger of perifhing for want of food. To remedy thefe evils, many applications were made to the government for cutting rivers and drains, which was many times atrempied, but without fuccefs. In the reign of Charles I. Francis Ruffel, who was then earl of Bedford, agreed with the inhabitants of the feveral drowned countries to drain the whole level, in confideration of a grant of ninety-five thoufand acres of the land that he fhould drain, to his own ufe. The earl admitted feveral other perfous to be fharers with him in this undertaking, and they proceeded in the work till one hundred thoufand pounds had been expended, but the ground was ftill under water. It was then under- taken by the king, who engaged to complete the work for lixty-nine thoufand acres more, and proceeded on the attempt till the civil war broke out, which firft put an end to his project, and then to his life. During the civil war, the work flood ftiil ; but in the year . 1649, William earl of Bedford, and the other adventurers, who bad been aflbciated with Francis, refumed the un- dertaking upon their original contract for ninety-five thoufand acres ; and after having expended three hun- dred thoufand pounds more, the work was completed. But the expence being more than the value of the ninety- five thoufand acres, many of the adventurers were ruined by the project ; and the fanction of the legiflature was ftill neceffary to confirm the agreement, and inveft the contractors with fuch rights and powers as would enable them to fecure fuch advantages as they had obtained. King Charles II. therefore, upon application, recom- mended it to his parliament; and in the fifteenth year of his reign, an act waspaffed, intituled, An act for fettling the drains of the great level, called, from the firft pri- vate undertaker, Bedford Level. By this act, the pro- prietors were incorporated by the name of The Governor, Bailiffs, and Commonalty, of £the Company of the Con- fervators of the Great Level of the Fens. The corpora- tion confifts of one governor, fix bailiffs, and twenty confervators. The governor and one bailiff, or two bai- liffs without the governor, and three confervators, make a quorum, and are impowered to act as commifiioners of the fewers, to lay taxes on the ninety-five thoufand acres, to level them with penalties for non-payment, by fale on a fuflicient part of the land on which the tax and penalty are due : but by this act, the whole ninety-five thoufand aqres were not vefted in the corporation. The king referved twelve thoufand acres to himfelf, ten thou- fand of which he afligned to his brother, the duke of York, and two thoufand he gave to the earl of Portland. In the Ifle of Ely the air is damp, foul, and unwhole- fome ; but in the fouth-eaft parts of the county, it is more pure and falubrious ; the foil is alfo very different. In the Ifle of Ely it is holly and fpungy, yet affords ex- cellent pafturage. In the uplands to the fouth-eaft, the foil produces great plenty of bread, corn, and barley. The dry and barren parts have been greatly improved by fowing the grafs called Saint-foin, Holy-grafs, from its having been firft brought into Europe from Paleftine. Re?narks on the Husbandry of Cambridgefhire. The foil, in moft of the arable parts of Cambridge- fhire, is a light gravel ; though moft of the occupiers of land poffefs fome fields of ftronger land, upon which they raife better wheat than on the light gravelly foil. The farms in general are from about feventy and eighty, to one hundred and forty pounds a year ; and the rent, upon an average, about twelve (hillings an acre. Their courfe of crops is, in general, 1. fallow; 2. wheat; 3. peafe, or oats j 4. fallow ; 5. turnips ; 6. barley. For wheat they plough four times, fow two bufhels and a half of feed, and reap, upon a medium, twenty-five bufhels. For barley they plough their turnip-land ge- nerally but once, unlefs the foil is not in good order; in which cafe they ftir it twice, fow four bufhels, and gain about four quarters. For oats alfo they plough but once, fow four bufhels, and reap four quarters. Peafe have the fame tillage ; the fame quantity is fown, and the produce is generally about twenty bufhels. They ftir the ground three times for turnips, hoe them once, and feed them off with fheep. In other parts of the county, both the hufbandry and foil are different ; particularly, in there being a great deal of cold clay land. The farms are of all lizes, from fifty to feven hundred pounds a year. Land in general lets from eight to ten fliillings an acre. Their courfe of crops, with fome variations, are, 1. fallow; 2. wheat; 3. peafe, or oats; and in light lands, it con- tinues ; 4. turnips ; 5. barley. They plough four times for wheat, fow two bufhels and a half, and reap, upon a medium, twenty-three bufhels. For barley they ftir the ground three times, fow four bufhels, and gain thirty-fix. They chufe to plough twice for oats, though this cannot always be done ; fow four bufhels, and reckon the mean produce the fame with that of barley. For barley they plough once or twice, according as the weather permits ; fow two bufhels and a half, and gain about thirty bufhels in return. They give two earths for beans; fow about two bufhels and a half per acre in every furrow after the plough; never hoe them, and ths t A M B R 1 D G E SHIRE. the -Crop, upon an average, is about twenty bufh-ls. For turnips three or four ploughings are given ; hoe them always once, and fometimes twice, feeding them off with fheep. They always ufe four horfes in a plough, with two men, and turn up an acre in a day. The price of labour is as follows : In narveft, thirty-five {hillings, and board. In hay- time, nine millings a week, end fmall beer. In winter, one milling a day, with beer. Reaping wheat, five mil- lings per acre. Mowing com, one milling and fix- pence. Mowing grafs, two (hillings. Hoeing turnips, four millings, and four and fix-pence. In the fouthern parts of the county, bordering upon Eflex, they raife great quantities of faffron j but having already given a particular account of the method pur- fued in cultivating that vegetable in our account of Elfex, it need not be repeated here. Natural Productions, ^Manufactures. The principal commodities of Cambridgeshire are, corn, malt, butter, faffron, colefeed, hem, fifh, and wild-fowl. The wild -fowl are taken in duckoys, places convenient for catching them, into which they are led by tame ducks that are trained for that purpole ; and in the Ifle of Ely there is fuch plenty of thefe birds, that three thoufand couple are faid :o be fent to London every week ; and there is one duckoy near Ely that lets for five hundred pounds a year. The principal manufactures of this county are paper and wicker-ware. City, and Market Towns* The city is Ely; and the market-towns are, Cam- bridge, Laxton, Lynton, Merfh, Newmarket, Royfton, Soham, and Wifbich. Wifbich is fituated among the fens and rivers in the Ifle of Ely. It is diftant from London eighty-eight miles, and is a well-built, populous town. Here is a good public hall, and an epifcopal palace, belonging to the bifhop of Ely. It has a navigation by barges to London, which has made it a place of confiderable trade. Its principal commodity is oats, of which more than fifty-two thoufand quarters are annually fent up to this metropolis, befides one thoufand tons of oil, and eight thoufand firkins of butter. There was a caftle erected here by William I. in the eleventh century, to overawe the outlaws of thefe fenny parts, who made frequent incurfions, and did much mifchief. In the year 1236, this caftle, together with the town, was deftroyed by an inundation of the fea. Cardinal Morton, who was bifhop of Ely in the beginning of the fixteenth century, rebuilt the caftle of brick, which was ufed in the time of queen Elizabeth as a prifon for Popifh priefts. Here was formerly an hofpital, dedicated to St. John the Baptift, before the year 1343. This town has a weekly market held on Saturday, and feven annual fairs, viz. Monday and Saturday be- fore Palm-Sunday, for hemp and flax ; Monday before Whitfun-Sunday, for horfes ; Saturday before ditto, for hemp and flax; the twenty-fifth of July, for horfes j and the firft and flcond of Auguft, for hemp and flax. At Newton, near Wifbich, in the chapel of St. Mary Super Cafteram Maris, there was a large chauntry, con- fiftingof a warden and feveral chaplains, founded by Sir John Colville, in the reign of Henry IV. and being particularly excepted in the act of diflblution, the lands became annexed to the rectory of Newton. At Liverington, not far from Newton, there was an old hofpital, which is long fince decayed, and the re- venue funk. Saxulph, the firft abbot of Peterborough, is faid to have built a monaftery, or rather an hermitage, at Thorney, near Wifbich, the place defcribed by Wil- liam of Malmfbury as a terreftrial paradife, fo early as the time of Etheldreda. In the year 870, thehoufewas deftroyed, and the prior 'and feveral anchorites were murdered by the Danes. In 972, Ethelwold, bifhop of Win:hefter, refounded it for Benedictine monk?, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. At the diffdution, its revenue was valued at four hundred and eleven pounds twelve {hillings and fix -pence per annum. At this place there was alio an hofpital for poor perfons, under the government of the abbey, Merfh, or Marfh, is in the Ifle of Ely, and has a church that belongs to the neighbouring parifh of Dod- dington. Its diftance from London is fixty-feven miles. When a road was making from hence to Wifbich, the workmen found two urns ; in one of them there were bones aud afhes, and in the other about three hundred pieces of filver coin, no two pieces of which were perfectly alike, but all appeared by their dates to be more than two thoufand years old. Here is a weekly market held on Fridays, and three annual fairs, viz. Whitfun-Monday, for houfhold goods ; the fecond of June, for horfes ; and the twenty- feventh of October, for cheefe. The city of Ely is fituated in that part of the county called the Ifle of Ely, which is fuppofed to derive its name either from Eel, a fifh, with which the waters of the fenny country abounded ; from Elos, * marfh ; or from Helig, the Britifh word for willows or fallows, which grow in great plenty in this place, where fcarce any other tree is now to be found. Ely is fixty-nine miles diftant from London. It is governed by the bifhop, who has not only the ecclefi- aftical, but civil jurisdiction ; and though a city, is not reprefented in parliament ; two particulars in which it differs from every other city in the kingdom. The Sovereignty of this place was fettled upon the bifhop by Henry I. who alfo made Cambridgefhire his diocefe, which before was part of the diocefe of Lincoln. From this time the bifhop appointed a judge to determine all caufes, whether civil or criminal, that fhould arife within his Ifle, till the time of Henry VIII. who took this privilege away. It ftands on a rifing ground, yet being in the midft of fenny lands, and furrounded with water, it is deemed an unhealthy place. It is very ancient, but neither beautiful nor populous. The principal ftreet, which is on the eaft fide of the town, is full of fprings ; and at the diftance of almoft every hundred yards, there are wells, which, though they are bricked up about two feet high, yet generally overflow, and form a ftream from one to the other, which is continually trickling down the hill. The principal buildings are, the cathedral and the epifcopal palace. The church is four hundred feet long, and has a tower at the weft end, about two hundred feet high : it has alfo a {lately cupola, which is feen at a great diftance, and has a fine effect, though it feems to totter with every blaft of wind. It has a free-fchool, for the maintenance and education of forty-two boys ; and two chavity-fchools, one for forty boys, and the other for twenty girls, which are fupported by voluntary fubfeription. All the environs of the city are gardeners grounds, which produce fuch abundance, that the country, as far as Cambridge, is fupplied from thence; and greens and garden-fluff" are fent even to St. Ives, in Huntingdonfhire. Here are no remains in this city of profane or fecular antiquity, except a very high round mount on the fouth fide of the church. It is now the fite of a wind-mill ; but when, or for what purpofe it was thrown up, is not known. There is a weekly market held here on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. Afcenfion-day, for horfes ; and Thurfday in the week in which St. Luke's day falls, for horfes, cheefe, and hops. At Sutton, a fmall village in the neighbourhood of Ely, feveral pieces of antiquity were difcovered by fome peafants, who were ploughing, in the year 1694. The plough-fhare firft brought up a thin plate of lead, with feveral fmall, ancient coins ; and one of the labourers thrufting his hand into the earth, which was light and moorifh, found three thin plates of filver, of a circular fhape, two of which were locked together by a fmall I rivet that palled through their centres. One of thefe plates C A M & R I D ptates appears to have been about fix inches diameter, and has a Dano-Saxon infcription round itj of which the three firft words are fuppofed to be magical terms, and the reft have been thus tranflated : " O Lord, Lord, him always defend, who carrieth * l me about with him : grant him whatever he defires." ' On the other fide of the plate there are many knots and figures, which concur with the infcription, to prove that the whole was intended for a charm. With thefe plates there were alfo. found fome rings of gold, fuppofed to have been the treafure of fome noble perfon who fled into this fenny country for fafcty. At Audre, formerly called Erith and Athered, not many miles fouth of Ely, there is a rampire, very large, but not high, called Belfar's Hill, from one Belifar, a perfon unknown. There is a tradition, that king Ethelbert founded a church, or monaftery, at a place called Cradindene, about one mile from Ely, at the inftance of St. Auguftine; but it is, with good reafon, rejected as fabulous. It is believed, upon better authority, that a religious fociety was firft founded here about the year 673, by Etheldreda, one of the daughters of king Anna, who married Tom- bert, prince of this country, and after his death, became the wife of Egfrid, king of Northumberland. The church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and the fer- vice of God was performed in it both by monks and nuns, who lived together under the government of an abbefs, as was the cuftom in thofe early times. The roval foundrefs was herfelf the firft abbefs ; and the fo- ciety, which foon became famous, continued near two hundred years, when the country was over-run* and all the religious houfes deftroyed by Habba^ in 870. Some years after, a few of the monks, who had efcaped the malfacre, returned ; and having repaired fome part of the church and buildings, lived in them as fecular p;iefb, under the government of provofts, or arch- priefts, for about one hundred years. In the year 970, Ethelwold, bifhop of Winehefter, wholly rebuilt the monaftery with great magnificence ; and having amply endowed it, partly by his own donations, and partly by the munificence of king Edgar, he once more introduced an abbot and regular clergy. In 1 108, the fee of a new bifhoprick, taken out of the diocefe of Lincoln, was eftablifhed here; the bifhop was fubftituted in the place of the abbot, as governor of the monaftery ; and the re- venues were divided between him, the prior., and monks. The ihareof the bifhop was valued, at the diflblution, at two thoufand one hundred and thirty-four pounds eigh- teen {hillings and fix-pence per annum ; and that of the convent at one thoufand and eighty-four pounds fix (hil- lings and nine-pence. There was then in it a prior, and between thirty and forty Benedictine monks ; and upon their furrender, king Henry VIII. placed here a dean, and eight fecular canons, or prebendaries, with vicars, lay-clerks, chorifters, a fchoolmafter and ufher, and twenty-four king's fcholars ; and endowed them with the fue, and great part of the lands belonging to the priory. The old monaftery was dedicated to St. Peter, and St. Etheldreda, commonly called St. Audrey. It is faid that Ely, as a city, gradually rofeout of this monaftery, as the buildings and inhabitants increafed after the bifhoprick was fettled there, and the depreda- tions of the Danes had been repaired. There was alfo an old hofpital here, probably founded by fome of thebifhops, and maintained out of the epif- copal revenue. This hofpital was one of the two that were dedicated, one to St. John the Baptift, the other to St. Mary Magdalen ; both were united by bifhop Nor- wold about the year 124.2, and managed by fome of the monks of the priory, till 1458, when bifhop Gray made one of his fecular chaplains mafter or warden. It was valued at twenty-five pounds five (hillings and three- pence perann, and granted by Q. Elizabeth to Clare Hall. At Upvvell, in the Ifle of Ely, formerly called Mir- maud, there was a fmall priory of Gilbertines, dedicated to the Bleffed Virgin, and given as a cell to Sempring- ham, by Ralph de Hanville, in the time of Richard I. or John. It was valued at ten pounds feven (hillings and feven -pence per annum, 3* G E S H I R E. 34.1 Soham is a little town on the eaft fide of the river- Cam, near a fen which lies in the road to Ely, and wa* once extremely dangerous to pafs; but a good caufeway is now made through it. It is fixty-eight miles diitant from London, and has a charity-fchool for near one hundred children. Here are the ruins of a church which the Danes burnt with the inhabitants, whom they forced into it before they fet it on fire. It is faid, that St. Felix the apoftle, and the firft bifhop of the Eaft Angles, founded a monaftery, and placed theepifcopal fee at Soham, where a great church was alfo built by Luttingus, a noble Saxon. A monaftery of monks flouriflied here, and became famous under abbot Werefrid ; but they were all deftroyed, and the church laid in allies, by the Danes under Inguar and Habba, about the yrar 870. Soham has a weekly market held on Saturday, and art annual fair on the twenty-eight of April, for cows and horfes. At Spinneyj near Soham, there was a priory for three regular canons of the order of St. Auguftine. It was built and endowed in the time of Henry III. by Sir Hugh de Malebilfe, who married the lady of the manor j and it was dedicated to the Blefled Virgin and the Holy Crofs. In 1449, it was united to the cathedral monaftery of Ely. At Ifelham, a little to the north-eaft of Soham, there was a priory, which, like Lynton, was a cell to the abbey of St. Jacutu?, in Britanny. h was Valued at ten pounds thirteen (hillings and four-pence per annum. There was a houfe at Wicken, near Soham, which the lady Mary Baffingburn, in the fifteenth of Ed- ward II. gave, with feveral parcels of land, to the con- vent of Spinney, upon condition that feven poor old men (hould be maintained in it, with an allowance to each of one farthing loaf, one herring, and one penny- worth of al£ every day ; and three ells of linen, one woollen garment, one pair of (hoes, and two hundred dry turf every year. Newmarket, notwithstanding its name, is of confi- derable antiquity ; for in the time of Edward III. the bifhop of Carlifle, who was afterwards fo troublefome to Henry IV. was called Thomas of Newmarket. It is fixty miles from London, and confifts principally of one ftreetj which is long, and well built ; the fouth fide of it only is in this county, the north fide is in Suffolk. The air of this place is very healthy, and the heath which furrounds the town is remarkable for the fineft courfe in England, where there are horfe-races in April and October every year. There are two churches in Newmarket ; one on the Cambridge fide, which is a chapel of eafe to Ditton, a neighbouring parifh ; and one on the Suffolk fide, which is parochial. There are alfo two charity-fchools, one for twenty boys, and the other for twenty girls; and on the heath there is a royal palace, which was built by king Charles II. The town was burnt in the year 1683$ but was foon after rebuilt by a brief This town has a weekly market, held on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, viz. Whitfun-Tuefday, and the twenty-fixth of October, for horfes and fheep; At Burwell, near Newmarket-heath, there was an- ciently a caftle, of which fcaree any veftige is remaining. There is a remarkable long ditch* called Seven Mile- dyke, becaufe it is feven miles from Newmarket; It is fituated at the end of a caufeway three miles long, which was thrown up by Henry Hervy, doctor of laws, mafter of Trinity Hall, leading from Stourbridge fair towards Newmarket. This dyke begins on the eaft fide of the river Cam, and runs in a ftraight line as far as Balfham. Five miles to the eaft, and one mile and an half diftant from Newmarket, is another ditch, which being a ftupendous work, much fuperior to the one above-mentioned, has obtained the name of Devil's Dyke, the common people fuppofing it to be more ade- quate to the power of fpirits than men. It begins at Rich, and running many miles over Newmarket heath, it ends near Cowlidge. Some writers have thought, that Seven Mile Dyke, and Devil's Dyke, were the work S s s s ©£ 34 i C A M B R I D G E S H I R E. of Canutus the Dane ; but the Devil's Dyke is men- tioned by Abbo Floriacenfis, an hiftorian who died in the tenth century, and Canutus did not begin his reign till the beginning of the eleventh. Tney were called St. Edmund's Ditches in ancient times, and were pro- bably the work of St. Edmund, king of the Eaft-Angles. At Chippenham, near Newmarket, there was a pre- ceptor of the Knights Hofpitalers, fubordinate to their great houfe in London, the manor being given them by William de Mandeville, earl of Effex, in 1184. It was ufed as a country houfe for the fick, and the revenue was valued at thirty-three "pounds fix (hillings and eight- pence per annum. At Swaffbam Bulbec, a little weft of Newmarket, there was a Benedictine nunnery, dedicated to St. Mary, by one of the Bulbecks, a family of great diftinction in this county before the time of king John. At the diflb- iution, there were found in it a priorcfs and eight nuns, who had a revenue of forty pounds per annum. At Fordham, a little to the north-weft of Newmaiket, was a fmall convent of Gilbertine canons > dedicated to St. Peter and St. Mary Magdalen. King Henry III. gave the church, and Sir Hugh Malebifle was a confi- derable benefactor. It was endowed at the fupprefiion with forty pounds thirteen {hillings and four-pence per annum. Lynton is a little obfcure town, near which it is faid a confiderable coat-mine was difcovered fome years ago. It is diftant from London forty fix miles. Here was formerly an alien priory, fubordinate to the abbey of St. Jacutus de Infula in Britanny, before the time of Henry III. It was feized by the crown during the French wars, and at the fuppreffion was valued at twenty-three pounds eight (hillings and ten-pence per annum. There is a Roman way at Lynton, which runs into the Ikenild. This town has a weekly market held on Thurfdays, and two annual fairs, viz. Holy Thurfday, and the thir- tieth of Auguft, for horfes. At Bareham, in the parifh of Lynton, in the time of Edward I. there was a priory of Crouched or Crofted friars, which was a cell to Welnetham in Suffolk, and Welnetham was fubordinate to the great houfe of that order in London. A little to the fouth-weft of Lynton, there is a re- markably wide, deep, and long ditch. It begins at Hinkefton, or Hinxton, and runs eaftward by Hilder- fliam to Horfeheath, at the diftance of about five miJes. Cambridge, the county town, is fituated on the river Cam, which divides it into two parts that are again joined by a ftone bridge. It is governed by a mayor, high fteward, recorder, thirteen aldermen, a common- council of twenty-four, a town-clerk, and other officers. The fituation of this place is low ; and as the adjacent foil is fomewhat moift, the air is too grofs to be in the higheft degree healthful. The town, which is fifty-two miles diftant from London, is dirty and ill Vuilt, but it has fourteen parifh-churches. In the market-place there is a public conduit, which was built by Hobfon the car- rier, who in the time of James L acquired a great effate. A new building, called the Shire-houfe, was lately erected contiguous to the old town-hall, at the expence of the county. There are in this town two charity- fchools, in which three hundred children are taught and fifty cloathed. Thefe fchools are fupported by a fubfcription of two hundred and thirty pounds />*r annum, an eftate of thirty pounds a year, which was left them for ever by William Wortes; and by the money at the facrament in fome of the college chapels, which has been appropriated for that purpofe. The univerfity of Cambridge confifts of fixteen col- leges, four of which are diftinguifhed by the name of Halls, though the privileges of both are in every refpect equal. It is a corporation, confifting of about one thoufand five hundred perfons, and is governed by a chancellor, a high-fteward, two proctors, and two taxers. All thefe officers are chofen by the univerfity. The chancellor is always a peer of the realm, and generally continues in his office for life, by tke tacit confent of the univerfity, though a new choice may be made every three years. As the chancellor is a perlbn of fucfi hi^h rank, it is not expected or intended that he fhould exe- cute the office ; but he has not the power of appointing his fubftitute : a vice-chancellor is chofen annually on the third of November, by the univerfity ; he is always the head of fome college, the head3 of each college re-, turning two of their body, of which the univerfity elects one. The high-fteward is chofen by the fenate, and holds his place by patent from the univerfity. The proctors and taxers are alfo chofen every year, from the feveral colleges and halls by turns. The public fchools, of which there is one to every college, are in a building of brick and rough ftone, erected on the four fides of a quadrangular court. Every college has alfo its particular library, in which, except that of King's College, the fcholars are not obliged to ftudy, as in thelibraiies at Oxford, but may borrow the books, and ftudy in their chambers. Befides the parti- cular libraries of the feveral colleges, there is the uni- verfity library, which contains the collections of the archbifhops, Parker, Grindal, and Pancroft 3 and of Dr. Thomas Moore, bifhop of Ely ; confifting of thirty thoufand volumes, which was purchafed for feven thou- 1 fand pounds, and prefented to the univerfity by his late majefty king George I. in the year 1715. Each college has alfo its particular chapel, where the mafters, fellows, and fcholars, meet every morning and evening, for the public worfhip of God ; though on Sundays and holidays, when there is a fermon, they at- tend at St. Mary's church. The names of the colleges are, Peter Houfe, Clare Hall, Pembroke Hall, Corpus Chrifti, or Benedict College, Trinity Hall, Gonvil and Caius College, King's College, Queen's College, Catharine Hall, Jefus College, Chrift's College, St. John's College, Magdalen College, Trinity College, Emanuel College, and Sidney Suffex College. I. Peter Houfe, is a large quadrangular building, well contrived, and adorned with porticos. It has a mafter, twenty-two fellows, and forty-two fcholars ; and was founded by Hugh Balftiam, bifhop of Ely, anno 1257, when only prior of Ely. The fcholars at firft had no other conveniences than chambers, which exempted them from the high rates impofed on them by the townf- men for lodgings. The endowment was fettled by the fame Hugh, when bifhop, anno 1284, for a mafter and fourteen fellows ; which number might be increafed or diminifhed according to the improvement or diminution of their revenues. , II. Clare Hall was founded in the year 1340, -by Richard Badow, chancellor of the univerfity, with the affiftanceof the lady Elizabeth Clace, countefs of Ulfter. He had before built an houfe called Univerfity Hall, wherein the fcholars lived, at their own expence, for fixteen years, till it was accidentally deftroyed by fire. The founder finding the charge of rebuilding would exceed his abilities, fought the kind afliftance of the aforefaid lady, through whofe liberality it was not only rebuilt, but endowed. It has lately been new huilt, and is now one of the neateft and moft uniform ftructures in the univerfity : k is a fquare of building three ftories high ; the materials are free-ftone, and the work is Doric : it reaches quite to the banks of the river Cam, which runs through the garden ; and the court is entered by a lofty gate-houfe, adorned with two rows of pillars. There is ancther building contiguous to the college, the upper ftory of which is the library, and the lower the chapel. To this college belongs a meadow on the other fide of the river, which communicates with it by a bridge. It has a mafter, eighteen fellows, and fixty-three fcholars. III. Pembroke Hall, was founded in the year 1347, by the lady Mary St. Paul, countefs of Pembroke, third wife to Audomare de Valentia, earl of Pembroke ; who having been unhappily fiain at a tilting on his wedding- day, ihe entirely fequeftered herfelf from all worldly de- lights, and, amongft other pious acts, built this college, which has been fince much augmented by the benefac- tions of others. It has a mafter, five fellows, and thirteen C A M B R I D G E S H I R E. 343 thirteen fcholars. In the building there is nothing worthy of note. IV. Corpus Chrifti, or Benedict College, was founded by the fociety of friars in Corpus Chrifti, in the year J346. This arofe out of two guilds or fraternities, one of Corpus Chrifti, and the other of the Bleffed Virgin; which, after a long emulation being united into one body, by a joint intereft built this college, which took, its name from the adjoining church of St. Benedict. Their greateft modern benefactor was Dr. Matthew Parker, once mafter of the college, and afterwards archbifhop of Canterbury, who by his prudent manage- ment, recovered feveral rights of the college} and, be- fides two fellowfhips, and five fcholarfhips, gave a great number of excellent MSS. to their library, which were nioftly collected out of the remains of the old abbey- libraries, colleges, and cathedrals, and chiefly relate to the hiftory of Eni 'and. It is a long iquare of buildings, containing two courts, and two rows of lodgings. It has a chapel and library under the fame roof ; and maintains a mafter, twelve fellows, and forty fcholars. V. Trinity Hall was founded about the year 1353, by William Bateman, bifhop of Norwich. It was built upon a place which once belonged to the monks of Ely, and was a houfe for ftudents before the time of bifhop Bateman, who, by exchange for the advowfons of cer- tain rectories, got it into his own poffeflion. He was a great mafter of civil and canon law ; whereupon the mafter, two fellows, and three fcholars, the number appointed by him at the firft foundation, were obliged to follow thofe two ftudies. It has been fince much aug- mented by benefactors, and the number of its members are proportionally increafed. The building of this hall is but irregular, yet it has convenient lodgings for the mafter and fellows, and plea- fant gardens, inclofed by walls of brick j and maintains twelve fellows, and fourteen fcholars. VI. Gonvil and Caius College. In the year 1348, Edmund Gonevil founded an hall, called after his name, upon the place where are now the orchard and tennis- court of Bennet College : but within five years after it was removed into the place where it now ftands, by bi- fhop Bateman, founder of Trinity Hall. Anno 1607, John Caius, doctor of phyfic, improved this hall into a new college, fince chiefly called by his name ; and it has, of late years, received confiderable embellifhments. It has twenty-fix fellows, and feventy-four fcholars. VII. King's College was founded in the year 1451, by king Henry VII. It was at firft but fmall, being built by that prince, for a rector, and twelve fcholars only. Near it was a little hoftel for grammarians, built by William Bingham, which was granted by the founder to king Henry, for the enlargement of his col- lege ; whereuport he tyiited thefe two ; and having en- larged them, by uniting the church of St. John Zachary, founded a college for a provoft, feventy fellows and fcholars, and three chaplains. The chapel belonging to this college is defervedly efteemed one of the fineft build- ings of its kind in the world : it is three hundred and four feet long, feventy-three broad, and ninety-four feet high on the outfide ; yet it is fupported wholly by the fymmetry of its parts, having no pillar within to fuftain the roof, which, as well as the fides, is of free- ftone. It has twelve large windows on each fide, finely painted ; and the choir is adorned with excellent carv- ing. It conftitutes one fide of a large fquare ; for the royal founder defigned that the college fhould be a qua- drangle, all of equal beauty ; but the civil wars, in which he was involved with the houfe of York, prevented his accomplifhing this noble defign. What has been added to this college within thefe few years paft, is a great or- nament to it. This new building, which is of ftone, runs from the weft end of the chapel, a little detached from it, to the fouthward ; forms another fide of the fquare, and contains fpacious chambers and apartments, being two hundred and thirty-fix feet in length, and forty-fix in breadth. The new fenate-hall makes the angle parallel to the chapel. This college has a mafter, fifty fellows, and twenty fcholars. The workmen, in digging for the foundation of the new buildings of this college, found a great number of broad pieces of gold, of the coin of king Henry V. ex- ceeding fair. As foon as it was known, the college got out of the workmen's hands a confiderable number of them, which they made prefents of to their particular factors, and divided among themfelves, and the ferlows of the college : but it is fuppofed that the labourers fe.- creted many ; for this coin, which before was very fcarce, could afterwards be obtained without much difficulty. VIII. Queen's College, was founded by queen Mar- garet of Anjou, wife to king Henry VI. in the year 1448 j but the troublefome times which followed prevented hef compleating this fabric. The firft mafter of it, Andrew Ducket, procured great fums of money from different perfons towards finifhing this work j and fo far pre- vailed with queen Elizabeth, wife to king Edward IV. that fhe perfected the work her profeffed enemy had be- gun. The reverend Mr. Ferdinand© Smithes, fenior fel- low of Queen's College, who died in November 1725* gave fifteen hundred pounds to the fame, to be appro- priated to the ufe of three batchelors of art, till the time of their taking their mailer's degree. This is one of ths pleafanteft colleges in the univerfity ; it has the moft convenient lodgings, delightful gardens, orchards, and walks ; and was the refidence of the celebrated Erafmus, of Rotterdam, who chofe this college for his laft retreat. It maintains a mafter, nineteen fellows, and forty-four fcholars. IX. Catharine Hall was founded in the year 1459, by Robert Woodlark, third provoft of King's College ; and the hall was built over-againft the Carmelites Houfe, for one mafter and three fellows. The numbers have been fince greatly increafed, as well as the revenues ; for it atprefent maintains a mafter, fix fellows, and thirty fcholars. A great part of it has been lately new built, and may now be faid to be a beautiful and regular fabric. X. Jefus College was founded in the year 1499, ky John Alcocke, bifhop of Ely, out of an old nunnery de- dicated to St. Radegund, given him by king Henry VII. and pope Julius II. on account of the fcandalous incon- tinence of the nuns, in order to be by him converted to this ufe: and this prelate eftablifhed in it a mafter, fix: fellows, and fix fcholars ; but their numbers have fince been greatly increafed by confiderable benefactions. It maintains atprefent a mafter, fixteen fellows, and thirty** one fcholars. XI. Chrift's College was founded by the lady Marga- ret, countefs of Richmond, mother to king Henry VlL in the year 1506, upon the fame fpot of ground where God's Houfe formerly fteod. She fettled there a mafter and twelve fellows, &c. which number, in the time of king Edward VI. being complained of, as favouring of fuperftition, by alluding to our Saviour and his twelve difciples; that prince added a thirteenth fellowfhip, and increafed the number of fcholars. This college has been, within thefe few years paft, adorned with an ele- gant new building ; and now maintains a mafter, fifteen fellows, and fifty fcholars. XII. St. John's College was likewife founded by the countefs of Richmond, about the year 1560, upon the fame fpot where Nigel, or Neal, fecond bifhop of Ely, in the year 1 1 34, founded an hofpital for canons regular, which, by Hugh de Balfham, was converted into a priory dedicated to St. John, and, by the executors of the fat J countefs, into a college, under the name of the fame faint ; but fhe dying before it was finifhed, the work was retarded for fome time : it was however carried on by her executors; and in the beginning of the reign of king James II was greatly enlarged. The building at prefent confifts of three fpacious courts : it has a noble iibrary, which has, of late years, been greatly augmented by the acceffion of that of Dr. Gunning, late bifh »p of Ely, who bequeathed the fame to it. This college, which is pleafantly fituated by the river, is no lefs re- markable for its beautiful groves and gardens, than for the number of its ftudents, and the ftrict and regular discipline of them. There are at prefent a mafter, fifty- four fellows, and one hundred fcholars. XIII. Mag- 344 C A M B R I D G E S H I R E. XIII. Magdalen College was founded in the year 1542, by Thomas Audley, lord chancellor of England, who endowed it with lands belonging to the priory of the Holy Trinity of London, and called it the College of St. Mary Magdalen. It was at firft only a hall, confift- ing of three houfes ; but in the year 1519, the eleventh of Henry VIII. Edward Stafford, duke of Buckingham> purchafed thefe houfes, in which the monks of feveral neighbouring abbies had been ufed to ftudy ; from whence it was formerly called Monks Hall ; and converted them to the ufe of the univerfity, by the name of Buckingham Hall. It has been rerriarked, that the founder's name is contained in the word M-audley-n, which is the ortho- graphy of Magdalen, according to the vulgar pronun- ciation. A fellowfhip of a confiderable value has lately been founded at this college, which is appropriated to gentlemen of the county of Norfolk, and called The Travelling Norfolk Fellowfhip. To the library of this college were left a valuable collection of pamphlets, by -j Pepys, Efq; and likewife a great number of papers relating to the Navy and Admiralty ; and with them he bequeathed the prefles, which are carefully preferved to this day. This college was confiderably enlarged, and its revenue increafed by Sir Chriftopher Wrey, who was fome time afterwards lord chief juftice of England. A new building was begun fome years ago, to be added to this college, but was never finifhed. It ftands on the north-weft fide of the river, feparated from all the reft ; and now maintains a matter, thirteen fellows, and thirty fcholars. XIV. Trinity College was founded in the year 1546, by king Henry VIII. who converted three ancient halls, called St. Michael's, King's, and Phyfwick's Halls, into this ftately college, which he dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and endowed it for the maintenance of a provoft, fixty fellows, forty fcholars, and ten almoner orators ; referving to himfelf and his fucceflbrs the right of appointing the warden. The college, or houfe of St. Michael the Archangel, was founded in 1324, by Henry, or Hervey Stanton, canon of St. Peter's at York, and chancellor of the Exchequer to king Edward II. This place was in all refpects a .college, and the fellows of it took their de- grees in the public fchools of this univerfity. King's Hall was completed and endowed by Edw. III. in the year 1376, and the fiftieth year of his reign ; and the fellows of this hall alio took their degrees in the univerfity, as fellows of a college. Phyfwick Hoftel, or Hall, was the dwelling-houfe of William Phyfwick, Efq; beadle of the univerfity, who, in the year 1393* gave it to Gonvil Hall, and converted it into a little college, to receive fuch fcholars belonging to Gonvil Hall, as that houfe could not conveniently contain. The above halls being formed into a college, queen Mary prefented it with a revenue of three hundred and feventy-fix pounds ten {hillings ; and in the reign of queen Elizabeth, Nevill, dean of Canterbury, the eighth mafter of this college, expended three thoufand pounds in repairing, or rather rebuilding it, which he did with fuch magnificence and fplendor, that for fpacioufnefs, beauty, and uniformity, it is hardly to be equalled. It has lately been much improved by the addition of a li- brary. This building is of free-ftone, fupported by two rows of pillars, and faid to be one of the moft noble and elegant ftructures of the kind in the world. This college is rendered famous on account of feveral great men it has educated ; the moft illuftrious of which were, the lord Bacon, Sir Ifaac Newton, Dr. Barrow, Mr. Ray, and Dr. Bently. In this college are maintained three royal profeffors, fixty fellows, and ninety-one fcholars. XV. Emanuel College was founded in the year 1584, the twenty-fixth of Elizabeth, by Sir William Mild- may, who was chancellor and treafurer of the Exchequer to that princefs ; where there had been formerly a con- vent of Dominicans, inftituted in the year 1280, and the fixth of Edward I. by Alice, then countefs of Ox- ford. This college he dedicated to Emanuel, and placed in it a mafter, three fellows, and four fcholars. Here is a very neat chapel, built chiefly by the bounty of Dr. William Sancroft, archbifnop of Canter b ry, who left to the library, at his deceafe, a very valuable c llection of books. This college maintains a mafter, fourteen fel- lows, and fixty fcholars. XVI. Sidney Sufiex College was founded in the year 1589, the thirty-firft of Elizabeth, purfuant to the will of the lady Francis Sidney, countefs of Sufiex, who be- queathed five thoufand pounds for the building and en- dowing this college, for the maintenance of a mafter, ten fellows, and twenty fcholars, to be called by the name it now bears. In confequence of this will, a college was foon after built by the countefs's executors, upon the fpet where a monaftery of Francifcans, commonly called Grey Friars^ built by king Edward I. had formerly fiourifhed ; but the generous gift of this lady was inefficient to fulfill her good intentions : the deficiency, however, was fo far fupplied by the liberality of her executors, Henry Grey, earl of Kent, and John lord Harington, that it imme- diately received a mafter, eight fellows, and twenty fcho- lars. Sir Francis Clerk was afterwards a great bene- factor to this college ; he not only made a confiderable addition to the building, but likewife augmented the fcholarfhips, by founding four fellowfhips, and eight fcholarfhips more ; and Sir John Brereton left it, by will, two thoufand pounds. It now maintains a mafter, twelve fellows, and twenty-eight fcholars. The whole number of fellows is four hundred and fix, and of fcholars, fix hundred and fixty ; befides which, there are two hundred and thirty-fix inferior officers and fervants of various kinds : thefe are all maintained upon the foundation. The whole number of ftudents belong- ing to the univerfity are not, however, here included : there are two forts of ftudents, called Penfioners, the greater, and the lefs ; the greater penfioners are in gene- ral the young nobility, and are called Fellow Com- moners ; becaufe, though they are fcholars, they dine with the fellows : the lefs, called Commoners, are dieted with the fcholars, but both live at their own expence. There are alfo a confiderable number of poor fcholars, called Sizars, who wait upon the fellows, fcholars, and penfioners of both ranks, by whom they are in a great degree maintained ; but the number of thefe it is impof- fible to afcertain, being in a ftate of perpetual fluctuation. The univerfity, by a fpecial grant of Henry VI. has the privilege of printing books of every kind at their own prefs. The fchools of this univerfity were at firft in private houfes, hired from ten years to ten years for that pur- pofe, by the univerfity ; in which time they might not be put to any other ufe. Afterwards public fchools were built at the charge of the univerfity, in or near the place where they now ftand ; but the prefent fabric, as it is now built of brick and rou s h ftone, was erected partly at the expence of the univerfity, and partly by the contributions of feveral benefactors. The Univerfity Library was firft built by Rotheram, archbifhop of York, who, with Tonftal bifhop of Dur- ham, furnifhed it with choice books, few whereof are to be found at prefent : but it contained, neverthelefs, about fourteen thoufand books, when his late majefty king George I. was gracioufly pleafed, in the beginning of his reign, to purchafe the large and curious library of Dr. John Moor, bifhop of Ely, who died on the thir- tieth of July, 1 7 '4; and, as a mark of his royal favour, to beftow it upon this univerfity. There have been very lately great additions and alte- rations made in the library, for the better difpofition of this valuable royal prefent, which confifted of upwards of thirty thoufand volumes, and coft the king fix thou- fand guineas. And we cannot but obferve, in this place, that the late lord vifcount Townfhend, having underftood that the univerfity, to fhew their gratitude, and do honour to the memory of his late majefty king George I. intended to erect a ftatue of that monarch, was pleafed to offer to caufe the fame to be carved, and fet up in the faid library at his own expence; which generous tender was received by the univerfity in the manner it deferved, and with circumftances equally to their CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 545 their own and his lordfhip's honour. And in the month or" October 1739, in purfuance thereof, a fine marble ftatue of this great prince was accordingly erected in the fenate-hall of King's College ; on which are the follow- ing inferiptions, viz. On the front: GEO R G ro Optimo principi, Magnae Britannia? regi> Ob infignia ejus in hanc academiam Merita, Senatus Cantabrigienfis In perpetuum Grati animi teftimonium Statuam Mortuo ponendam Decrevit. That is, By the fenate of Cambridge it was decreed, that a ftatue fhould be erected to his late moft excellent majefty George I. king of Great Britain, as a perpetual mo- nument of their gratitude for his fignal benefits to this univerfity. On the Left k . C AROLUS Vicecomes Townshend, Summum turn academiae, turn Reipublicae decus, Pro eximia, qua regem coluerar, Pietate, proque fingulari, Qua academiam foverat, Caritate, ftatuam A fenatu academico decretam Sumtibus fuis e marmore Faciendam locavit. That is, Charles lord vifcount Townfhend, a principal ornament both of the univerfity and the ftate, agreeably to his Angular loyalty towards his prince, and the particular affection wherewith he had favoured the univerfity, engaged to have the ftatue, which was decreed by the fenate of Cambridge, made of marble at his own ex- pence, CAROL US filius Vicecomes Townshend, Virtutum aeque ac honorum Paternorum haeres, Statuam, Quam pater morte fubita abreptus Imperfeetam reliquerat, Perficiendam, Atque in hoc ornatiflimo Academiae loco collocandam* Curavit. Charles the fon, lord vifcount Townfhend, heir alike to the virtues and dignities of his father, caufed this fta- tue, which his father, furprifed by fudden death, had left imperfect, to be completed, and erected in this moft honourable place of the univerfity. The fame beneficent king, not contented with having given this noble inftance of his royal bounty to the uni- verfity of Cambridge, in the year 1724, was gracioufly pleafed to confer another mark of his favour upon them, and which extended to the univerfity of Oxford ; in creating a new eftablifhment in a moft ufeful branch of learning, which was much wanted, and for which, till that time, there had been no provifion : this was to ap- point two perfons, not under the degree of mafter of arts, or batchelor of laws, fkilled in modern hiftory, and in the knowledge of modern languages, to be nominated King's Profeflbrs of Modern Hiftory, one for the uni- verfity of Cambridge, and the other for that of Oxford ; who are obliged to read lectures in the public fchools, at particular times j each of which profeflors to have a fti- pend of four hundred pounds per annum, out of which each profefibr is obliged to maintain, with fufficient fa- laries, two perfons at leaft, well qualified to teach and inftruct in writing and fpeaking the faid languages, gratis, 37 twenty fcholars of each univerfity, to be nominated by the king, each of which is obliged to learn two, at leaft, of the laid languages. The fame excellent prince alfo Was pleafed to appoint twelve perfons, chofen out Of each of the universities, to be preachers in the royal chapel of Whitehall, at ftated times, with handfome falaries ; and declared, that he would caufe a particular regard to be had to the mem- bers of the two univerfities, in the difpofitions of thofe benefices which fell into the royal gift. Some other benefactions to this univerfity, within, thefe few years paft, are. as follow : Dr. John Woodward, who died on the twenty-f f-h of Aprd 1728, left to the univerfity of Cambridge a fum of money, for erecting a profefforfhip for Natural Philo- fophy, with a provifion of one hundred and fifty pounds per annum for the fupport and maintenance of the fame for ever. He likewife bequfathed to the faid urtiverfity his collection of foffilsy and other natural curiofities ; and fuch a part of his library, moreover, as was necel- fary to illuftrate his faid collection. On the death of Mrs. Addenbroke, (March 1720) widow of an eminent phyfician of that name, the fum of about four thoufand pounds devolved to this univerfity ; which, by the doctor's will, were to be applied to the building and furnifhing a phyfical hofpital in Cambridge^ in which poor difeafed people were to be admitted for cure, gratis. The mafter and frllows of Catharine-hall were appointed truftees of this charity. In the centre, on the fouth fide of the fenate-houfe, Oppofite to the ftatue of George I. already defcribed, is another noble ftatue of George If. erected by the late duke of Newcaftle, then chancellor of the univerfity: On the front of the pedeftal is the following infcript'ioii J Georgio Secundo Patrono fuo, optime merenti, « Semper venerando ; Quod volenti populo, Inftitiflime humanifume, In pace, & in bello. Feliciter imperavit; Quod academiam Cantabrigienfeni j Fovit, auxit, ornavit; Hanc ftatuam TEternum, faxit Deus, monumentum^ Grati animi in regem, ] Pietatis in patriam, Arhoris in academium, Suis fumptibus, poni curavit, ? Thomas Holles Dux de Newcaftle. Academiae Cancellarius, A.D. M.DCC.LXVI. Cambridge is fuppofed to Have rifen out of the an- cient Camboritum, or Grantcefter, from one of which names it is thought originally to have derived that which it bears at prefent. This place was a fortified town in the time of the Saxons ; and being afterwards feized by the Danes, they kept a garrifon there till the year 921, when they were driven out by Edward the elder. To- wards the end of the eleventh century, William the Conqueror built a caftle here, which is faid to have been- a large, ftrong, and ftately building ; fome traces of it are ftill to be feen, and the gate, which remains intire, is now the county gaol. In the fucceeding reign of William Rufus, the town was burnt by Roger de Mont- gomery, to revenge a fuppofed injury he had received from the king ; but Henry I. the fucceflbr of Rufus, rebuilt it, and made it a corporation. During the civil, contentions, called the Barons Wars, which happened in the twelfth century, it was often ravaged by outlaws, who took refuge in the Ifle of Ely ; but king Henry III. about the year 1 219, fecured it againft thefe incurfions, by a deep trench, which in Camden's time was called the King's Ditch ; but houfes having been fince built on both fides of it, the name was at length forgotten. There is alfo an artificial mount of confiderable height, flat on the top, but fteep on the fides, and fur- rounded by a deep ditch. In the reign of Richard II. T 1 1 1 neat j 4 6 CAMBRIDGESHIRE. near the end of the fourteenth centvry, during the in- furrection of Wat Tyler and Jack Straw, a rebellious rabble entered this town, and burnt the records of the univerfity in the market-place. The round church in this town is thought to have been a fynagogue of the Jews, who having been invited hither by the Conqueror and his fucceflbr, fettled here, and were very numerous for many generations, and inhabited all that part of the town which is now called the Jewry. Of the antiquities of the univerfity of Cambridge^ there are many accounts manifeftly fabulous, and many more of doubtful authority. There is an hiftory of the origin and antiquities of the univerfity of Cambridge by Nichola&Cantalupe, who is faid to have been a Carmelite friar of Northampton, and to have died at that place on the twenty-feventh of Sep- tember, 1441. The account given by Cantalupe, who has always been confidered as a fabulous writer, is in fubftance as follows : In the year of the world 432 1, being three hundred and feventy-five years before the Chriftian aera, Gur- gunt, the ion of Belin, who was then king of Britain, failed with a fleet to Denmark, the Danes having refufed the tribute which they had paid to his father. When he had reduced the Danes to fubjection, he embarked again for England ; and as he was returning by the Ifles of the Orcades, he difcovered thirty fhips full of men and women. Upon enquiring who they were, he learned that they were the relations and friends of Partholaym and Canteber, two brothers, the fove- reigns of Cantabra in Spain, who had been expelled their country by their people. When Partholaym and Canteber difcovered Gurgunt to be king of Britain, they apologized for being found fo near his coaft, by aflur- inghim that they had been driven about upon the ocean, without knowing whither they went, near a year and a half, and earneftly intreated him to allot them fome fmall part of Britain for an habitation. Gurgunt, taking pity on their diftrefs, fent Partholaym, with his fleet of fugi- tives, to fettle in Ireland, which was then defolate ; and brought Canteber with him to England, becaufe he underftood, that though a Spaniard, he had been edu- cated at Athens, and was a great fcholar. How thefe Britons and Spaniards came fo readily to underftand each other, does not appear ; however, we are told that Can- teber recommended himfelf fo much to Gurgunt, that he gave him his daughter Guenolena to wife, and with her the eaftern part qf Britain, as a dowry. Canteber foon improved his new territory by planting and build- ing, and founded a large city, which the Britons called Caergrant, from his fon the earl of Grantin, but which in Latin was called the city of Cante, from Canteber, the founder, whence it came afterwards to be called Cantebrigia. To this place Canteber invited many aftronomers and philofophers from Athens, and appointed them ftipends. The univerfity of Cambridge being thus founded, con- tinued to be a feminary of heathen learning till the time of pope Eleutherius, when two doctors were fent into England, who converted Lucius the king, and baptized three thoufand of the philofophers of Cambridge in one day. In the year 529, king Arthur granted many privileges to Cambridge, by the name of the City of Scholars. Not long afterwards, Cambridge was totally deftroyed, and both the ftudents and citizens extirpated by the Picls and Saxons : but St. Auftin, who came into England in 596, eftabliftied other learned men in this place, to whom Cadwald granted a new charter in the year 685. Cambridge was again wafted by Hubba, in 869 ; but was rebuilt, and its privileges reftored by Edward the Elder, the fon of Alfred, in the year 9 15. The feveral charters of Arthur, Cadwald, and Edward, are inferted by Cantalupe : but having thus far gratified the curiofity of the reader, his opinion muft be formed by himfelf. We have no account of the univerfity of Cambridge generally allowed to be authentic, that goes farther back than the reign of Henry I. who fucceeded William Rufus in Auguft 1 1 00. About this time the monaftery of Crowland, or Croyland, in Lincolnfhire, being con- fumed by fire, Joffred, or Geoffrey, the abbot, who was poifefled of the manor of Catenham, near Cambridge^ fent thither Giflebert-, his profeflbrof divinity, and three other monks. Thefe monks, being well {killed in philofophy and the fciences, went daily to Cambridgej where they hired a barn, and read public lectures : a number of fcholars were foon brought together^ and in lefs than two years, they were fo multiplied, that there was not a houfe, barn, or church in the place, large enough to hold them. Inns and halls were foon after built for the accommoda- tion of the ftudents, with chambers, which exempted them from the high rents which the townfmen had taken occafion to exact ; the fcholars were then divided into different claries. The boys and young men wereafligned to friar Odo, an excellent grammarian and fatyric poet, who read them lectures in grammar early in the morning. At one o'clock, Terricus, another of the monks, read Ariftotle's Logic to a fecond clafs : at three, friar Wil- liam read Tally's Rhetoric and Quintilian's inftitutionS to a third ; and Giflebert, the principal mailer, preached to the people on all Sundays and holidays. The fociety, ftill encreafing, was called an Univerfity, before any college was founded for the fcholars, or any pecuniary encouragement given to the inftitution, as appears by a record in the Tower, of the fifty-fecond of Henry III. which was in the ye r 1 268, where it is ftiled Univerjitatis Scolariufn, though Robert of Remington fays, " Grantbridge was from a ftudy made an univerfity like Oxford, by the court of Rome, in the reign of Edward I." But at whatever time it was firft confidered as an unlrer- fity, it is certain that the firft college was founded in 1257, by Hugh Ballham, then prior of Ely, who en- dowed it in 1284, tne twelfth of Edward I. when he was become bifhop of that diocefe, for a mafler, fourteen fellows, two ftudents in divinity, and eight poor fcho- lars, directing the number to be either increafed or di- minifhed, as the revenue fhould be improved or abated. At Cambridge there were many religious houfes, both for monks and nuns. There was a Benedictine nunnery near Greencroft, fo early as 1130; which being after- wards forfaken, was converted into the college now called Jefus College ; the revenue of which, at the diflblution, was no more than eighty-feven pounds eighteen (hillings and three-pence per annum. There was an old hofpital for a mafter and brethren, founded in the time of Ni- gellus, who was biftiop of Ely in the reign of Henry II. to the honour of St. John the Evangelift ; the revenue of which, juft before the diflblution, was valued at eighty pounds one ftiilling and ten- pence per annum. It was diflblved by Henry VII. for the irregularity of the mem- bers, and the fite was granted to the lady Margaret, countefs of Richmond, who made it the foundation of St. John's College. There was alfo a houfe of Mendi- cant Francifcan friars, commonly called Grey friars. Thefe friars were firft placed in an old fynagogue near the common prifon, by the magiftrates of the town, in the time of Henry III. and were afterwards removed to the fpot on which Sidney College has been fince built. The original founder is faid to have been king Henry III. and Edward I. was probably the donor of their new fitu- ation. Another order of Mendicant friars, called Beth- leemites, fixed themfelves in a houfe in Trumpington- ftreet, about the year 1257. In the fame ftreet alfo ftood a houfe and church of Friars dePenitentia Jefu Chrifti, who were founded by Henry III. and continued till the fuppreflion of the order at the council of Lyons in 1307. A priory of Black Dominican, or Preaching Friars, was founded in this town by the charity of feveral devout people, before the year 1275, and was much enlarged by Alice, the widow of Robert de Vere, the fecond earl of Oxford. The revenue does not appear. The friars Heremites, of the order of St. Auguftine, had a houfe in or near the Peas Market, in St. Edward's parifh, about the year 1290: the founder was Sir Jeffrey Picheford, knight. The value does not appear. About the year 1291, a convent of White canons from Semplingham, fettled themfelves at the old chapel of St. Edmund the King, over againft Peter-Houfe, which they had of B. fil. Walteri. The annual value, at the diflblution, was C A M B ft I D G E S H I R E. was fourteen pounds eight /hillings and eight-pence. About the year 1324* Herveus de Stanton, chancellor of the Exchequer, founded a college for a matter and feveral ftudents, to the honour of St. Michael. This, with all its revenues, valued at one hundred and twenty- four pounds fifteen fhillings and fix-pence per aimum, was included in the royal foundation of Trinity Col- lege, by Henry VIII. in 1546. Cambridge fends four members to parliament, two for the town, and two for the univerfity ; has two weekly markets, on Wednefday and Saturday ; and an annual fair on the twenty-fourth of June, for horfes, wood and earthen ware. At Denny, not far from Cambridge, fome Bene- dictine monks from Ely had a houfe and church, dedi- cated to St. James and St. Leonard, before the year 1 169 : in the next century they were fucceeded by Templars ; and in the century following, by nuns ; for the manor of Denny being given by Edward III. to Mary de St. Paulo, widow to Adomare earl of Pembroke, flie founded a monaftery for an abbefs and nuns Minorities, to the ho- nour of the Blefled Virgin and St. Clare ; and to this monaftery another from Waterbech was foon united. At the general diflblution, there were in the abbey of Denny twenty-five nuns, who were endowed with lands to the value of one hundred and feventy-two pounds eight fhillings and three-pence per annum. At Great Wilberham, a little to the north-eaft of Cambridge, there was a habitation of Knights Templars, which, with their other eftates, came into the poflellion of the knights of St. John of Jerufalem. At Horningfey, near Cambridge, there was a mo- naftery of fome note in the time of the early Saxon*, which, after its deftru&ion by the Danes, was never rebuilt. At Chatteris, near Yarter's Bridge in the fens, a nunnery of Benedictines was founded to the honour of the BlelTed Virgin, by Alfwin, wife of Ethelfton earl of the Eaft Angles, and nurfe to king Edgar about the year 980. At the fuppreflion, it was endowed with ninety- feven pounds three fhillings and four-pence per annum. There was an old nunnery at Ellefly, now called El- #liflev, or Ellley, near St. Neats, in the neighbourhood of Cambridge. This ftructure was deftroyed at the Conqueft. Near the town of Cambridge is Grantchefter, an ob- fcure village, which Bede, an ecclefiaftical hiftorian in the year 700, fays, was in his time a little defolate city. It is thought to have been the Camboritum of the Ro- mans., and that it was the origin of Cambridge, as we have already obferved. About a mile north-weft of Cambridge, is the village of Barnwell, remarkable for its abbey, built by St. Payne, or Paganus Pavarel, ftandard-bearer to Robert duke of Normandy in the Holy War ; but we have no account when it fell to decay. It was dedicated to St. George and St. Andrew, and endowed for fix canons regular. Near this abbey he built a handfome church ; and as the revenues were afterwards enlarged, the num- ber of canons was increafed to thirty, who had the power of chufing their own prior with the patron's leave and approbation. At the diflblution, the annual revenues amounted to two hundred and fifty-fix pounds eleven (hillings and ten-pence. One of the moft remarkable events that appears to have happened in this county, except thofe of a public nature, fell out in this village on the eighth of Septem- ber, 1727. Some ftrollers having brought hither a pup- pet-ftiew, the performance was exhibited in a large thatched barn ; but juft as the ftiew was about to begin, an idle fellow attempted to enter the barn without pay- ing, which the owners of the fhew prevented, and a quarrel enfued. After fome altercation, the fellow de- parted, and the door being fattened, all was quiet; but this execrable villain, to revenge the fuppofed injury he had received from the ftiew-men, went to a heap of hay and ftraw which flood clofe to the barn, and fecretly fct it on fire. The fpectators of the fhew, who were in the midft of their entertainment, were foon alarmed by the ; flames, which had now communicated themfelves to the | barn. In this fudden terror, which inftantly feized the whole aflembly, every one ruftied towards the door, which unfortunately happened to open inwards ; and the crowd that was behind ftill urging thofe that were before, they prefTed fo violently againft it, that it could not be opened ; and being too well fecured to give way, the whole company, confifting of more than otic hun- dred and twenty perfons, were kept confined in the building till the roof fell in, which covered them with fire and fmoke : fome were fuffocated in the fmoldering thatch, and others were confumed alive in the flames : fix only efcaped with life ; the reft, among whom were feveral young ladies of fortune, and many innocent children, were reduced to one undiftinguifhable heap of mangled bones and flefh, the bodies being half confumed, and totally disfigured. The furviving unhappy friends of the dead, not knowing which were the relicks they iought, a large hole was dug in the church-yard, and all were promifcuoufly interred together. As it is not eafy to conceive any circumftances of greater horror and diftrefs than thofe which attended this cataftrophc, nei- ther is it poflible to form an idea of wickednefs more ag»- gravated than what concurred in the perpetration of it. The favour which was refufed, was fuch as the wretch had neither pretence to aflc, norreafon to expect. The barn which he fired did not belong to the man who\had offended him ; and the people who were in it were ad- mitted only on fuch terms as he refufed to comply with j he had therefore no provocation, either to envy or ma- lice; yet he was guilty of a crime, which only a diabo- lical excefs of both could commit. It might reafonably have been fuppofed, that indigna- tion would have prompted the firft relators of this event to have exprefled Come i'atisfaction in the punifhment of the criminal, or fome regret at his efcape ; and that this particular would, from the fame emotion, have been conftantly preferved with the ftory ; yet this interefting circumftance is wholly omitted. There is in the neighbourhood of Cambridge, on the eaft fide, a village called Stourbridge, from the little brook Stour, or Sture, which runs by it. Here was formerly an holpital fpr lepers, called St. Mary Magda- len's. It was leafed by Henry VIII. at the diflblution, to the town of Cambridge; but the annual value does not appear. This village is remarkable for a fair, which was once the greateft temporary mart in the world, and is now fo confiderable, as to deferve particular notice. It is held in acorn-field about half a mile fquare, which is covered with booths, that are built in regular rows, and divide the area into many ftreets, which are called Cheapfide, Cornhill, the Poultry, and by the names of many other ftreets in London, to diftinguifh them from each other. Among thefe booths, there are not only warehoufes and fhops for almoft every kind of commodity and manu- facture, but likewife coffee-houies, taverns, eating- houfes, mufic-fhops, building for the exhibition of drolls, puppet-fhews, legerdemain, wild beafts and monfters. There is an area of about an hundred yards fquare, called the Duddery, where the clothiers unload, that is fcarce inferior to Blackwell Hall ; and in this place woollen goods have been fold to the value of one hundred thoufand pounds in a week ; and the manufac- turers of Norfolk, Suffolk, and Effex, generally lay out fixty thoufand pounds in wool. The upholfterers and ironmongers wares amount to a confiderable fum, and hops to ftill more, the price of which, all over the king- dom, is generally fettled at this fair ; and large com- miflions are negotiated for all parts of the kingdom. This fair begins on the eighth of September, and lafts a fortnight. The laft day is appropriated to the fale of horfes, and to horfe and foot races, for the diverfion of the company. The heavy goods from London are brought by fea to Lynn, in Norfolk, whence they are carried in barges up the Oufe to the Cam, and fo to the fair. The concourfe of people, whom bufinefs and idienefs concur to bring to this place, is fo great, that not only Cambridge, but all the neighbouring towns and villages, are full ; and even the barns and ftables are converted into drinking-rooms 54 8 C A M B R I D f.nd lodgings for the meaner fort of people. More than fifty hackney -coaches from London have been frequently found plying at this place ; and even wherries been brought from the Thames in waggons, to row people up and down the Cam. Yet, notwithstanding the multi- plicity of bufinefs, and the concourfe of people, there is very leldom any confufion or diforder, by which either life or property is endangered-, for a court of juftice is held here every day by the magiftrates of Cambridge, who proceed in a fummary way, and with fuch fteadi- nefs and diligence, that this fair is in many refpects like a well ordered city. Near this place there is an excellent caufeway, which reaches near four miles, and was begun by Dr. Hervey, matter of Trinity Hall, and finifhed by William Wortes, Efq; of Cambridge. Anglefea Abbey, feven miles north-eaft of Cambridge^ received its name from a priory of Auguftine canons. The real founder of it is not known : fome affirm it to have been Richard de Clare ; others fuppofe it was his kinfwoman, Elizabeth de Burgo ; and others again, king Henry I. perhaps they might all, at different times, be benefactors to it. It was dedicated to the Blefled Virgin and St. Nicholas ; and there were, at the diflblution, eleven canons in it, the annual revenue being eftimated at one hundred and feventy-one pounds four (hillings and fix-pence. Near the bridge at Wittlesford, a village fouth of Cambridge, in the road from London to Newmarket, there was an hofpital as early as the time of Edward I. It appears to have been founded by one William Colvile, and was dedicated to St. John the Baptift. At Trumpington, about one mile diftant from Cam- bridge, there is a place called Dam Hill, where a great number of human bones have been found, and many urns, pateras, and other Roman antiquities. About a mile north of Cambridge, at a place called Arbury, or Arborough, there are the remains of a Ro- man camp, in a figure inclining to a fquare, and of a very confiderable extent. In this camp there have been found many Roman coins,, particularly one of filver, with the head of Rome on one fide, and Caftor and Fol- lux on horfeback on the other. Near this fpot is the place called Chefterton, probably from this camp, or caftrum. Oppofite Arborough, to the fouth-eaft of Cambridge, and at a fmall diftance from it, are certain hills, called by the ftudents of the univerfity, Gog Magog Hills. On the top of thefe hills there is an intrenchment of 'a rude circular figure, which is two hundred and forty-fix paces in diameter: it is fortified with three rampires, having two ditches between them, after the manner of thofe times j and it is fuppofed, that if it could have been fupplied with water, it would at that time have been impregnable. Some have imagined this camp to be Roman, as the Romans did not always reject a circular figure, when the fituation made it more convenient than another. Others think it was a fummer retreat of the Danes, who are known to have committed great barbarities in this country : and fome are of opinion, that the work is Britifh, and was thrown up to check the Romans, who were encamped at Arborough, over-againft it. Gervafe of Tilbury, an hiftorian of the thirteenth century, thinks it was a camp of the Vandals, when they deftroyed the Chriftians, and defolated great part of the country ; he therefore gives it the name of Vandelbiria, which has fince been corrupted into Wandlefbury. Gervafe relates alfo, that this place was haunted by fome perturbed ipirit, which affirmed the appearance of a man in com- plete armour. Near this camp, from the brow of the hill fouthward, there runs a Roman way ; and in the year 1685, many Roman coins were found in an adja- cent fpot. Royfton is a market-town, diftant from London thirty- eight miles, fituated partly in Cambridgefhire, and partly in Hertfordfhire : a particular defcription of it has al- ready been given in Hertfordfhire. Caxton is a fmall town, diftant from London fifty anlles. It is remarkable for nothing but being the birth- G E S H I R E. place of William Caxton, the firft who pradlifed the noble art of printing in this kingdom : he took his fir- name from this place, where he died in the year i486. Matthew Paris, the hiftorian, was likewife born here. The Roman high way, called Ikenild Street, runs through this town to Royfton. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fifth of May, and the twelfth of October, for pedlary. Curious Plants found in Cambridgefhire. Common Stone Bafil ; Aches multis, y. B. found In the plowed land, on the borders of Gog Magog hill v, and Newmarket heath. Upright male Speedwell ; Veronica mas erecla, C. B. Grows in feveral places on Newmarket heath. The true Saffron ; Crocus fativus, C. B. cultivated in this county, and is a plant of value. Water Sengreen, or frefh water Soldier, or water Aloe ; Aloe paluftris, C. B. grows plentifully in the rivers and fen ditches, in the Ifle of Ely. Fine leaved Chickweed ; Alfne foliis minorihus ; met with on the corn fields of Tripoly heath. Long leaved rough Chickweed, with a large flower; Alfme pilofa foliis longioribus fore majore ; frequently met with in feveral parts of the county, on heaths and dry banks, among bufties, and in gravelly grounds. ' Round leaved water Pimpernel ; Samolus valerandiy y. B. found in the ditches, in Trumpington Moors. Female blue flowered Pimpernel ; Anagallis ccerulei fore, C. B. The plant is very rare, but found near Hilton, in Chefterton hundred. Goofe Grafs with a fmooth feed ; Aparine femine levi, Tourn. grows commonly among the corn, efpecially in chalky grounds. Violet coloured horned Poppy ; Glaucium fore viplacet> y Tourn. grows in the corn fields between SwafFham and Burwell. Marfh St. Peterfwort, with hoary leaves ; Afcyrum pa- luflre foliis hirfutis ; grows on boggy grounds near Gam- linghay. Marfh Twy blade ; Ophys bifolia pratenfs ; found in the fame places. Yellow fweet or mufk Orchis ; Orchis odorata mof- chata five monorchis, C. B. found at Cherry-hinton, and in pits above Gog Magog hills. Green winged humble bee Satyrion ; Orchis five Tef- ticulus fphegodes birfuto fore, f. B. found near Shelford, in the foot-way from Trumpington. Fly Orchis ; Orchis mufcam rcferens, C. B. found on the banks of the Devil's Ditch, on Newmarket heath. Dwarf Orchis ; Orchis minor Zealandia ; found in watery places in Hinton and Feverfham moors. Little purple flowered Dog-ftone ; Orchis minima fore purpurea-, grows on Gog Magog hills, and Newmarket heath. Woolly headed Thiftle, or Friars Crown ; Carduus eriocephatus, Dod. grows about Madingley, Childerley, Kingfton, and other parts of the county. Maiden Pink, or Mated Pink ; Carycphyllus minor re- pens, Raii. found near Hilderfham. Purple flowered great Baftard Parfley ; Caucalis major fore purpureo j frequently grows among the corn in this county. The leaft cut leaved wild Lettuce ; Prenanthes minima foliis dentatis ; found in a little lane near Cambridge,, leading from the London road to the river. Great jagged Fleabane; Conyza major vulgaris, C. B. grows in the fen ditches about Merfh and Chateris, in the Ifle of Ely. Marfh Fleabane, or Birds Tongue ; Conyva paluftrisy found in the fame places. The leaft Bindweed, or Gravel Bindweed ; Convol- vulus minor arvenfs, C. B. met with among the corn be- tween Harlefton and Little Everfden. Sweet Willow, Dutch Myrtle, or Gale ; Gale frutex odor at us Septentrionatium, f. B. grows in the fens of the Ifle of Ely. Horfetail C A M B R I D G E S H I R E. Horfl'tail water Millfoil; Achillea, tquifcta aquatica ; grows in almoft all parts of the county, in llow or Stag- nating water. Hooded water Mi 11 foil ; Achillea vclata aquatica ; found in feveral of the fen ditches. Buih-headed horfe-fboe Vetch ; Ferrum cquinumGer- mcmicum Siliquis in fummitate, C. B. grows on Gog Ma- gog hills, and Newmarket heath. Bloody Cranefbill, with larger, paler, and more deeply divided leaves; Geranium hamatodes foliis majoribus pal- tidis, et valde dentatis ; grows on the banks of the Devil's Ditch. Wild Liquorice, or Milk Vetch ; Aftragalus luteus perennis procumbens vulgaris flvejlris, Mor. found near the caftle hill, at Cambridge. Mountain Cudweed, or Catsfoot ; Elichryfum monta- num longiore, et folio, et Jlore albo, Tourn. found on New- Toarket heath. Herb Paris, True-love or One berry ; Paris foliis quaternis; found in Kingfton and Everfden woods. The everlafting Pea, or chichling Vetch ; Lathyrus latifolius, C. B. grows naturally in Maiderly wood. Wild perennial blue Flax, with larger heads and flowers ; Linum perenne, majus cceruleum, capitolo major -e, Mor. grows on the borders of the corn fields, about Gog Magog hills. Wild perennial blue Flax, with fmaller heads and flowers ; Linum perenne, cceruleum capituh ct Jlore minore ; found in the fame part of the county. Medic vetchling, Cockfhead, or wild Saintfoin; Ono- hrychis Sylvefiris; grows on Gog Magog hills. Great Burnet Saxifrage ; Tragofe linum majus, um- bella Candida., Tourn. found in copfes, about Hatley St. George. Common or Englifh Pafque flower ; Pulfatilla folio traffiore et ?najore fore, C. B. grows in plenty on Gog Magog hills. Water Germander ; Scordium, C. B. found in many ditches in the Ifle of Ely. Deadly Night Shade ; Solarium Lethale, Clus. This noxious plant, which is a Strong poifon, grows in the lanes about Fulborn. Sage leaved black Mullein ; Verbafcum nigrum fore ex luteo pur pur af cent e, C. B. found in many places about Gog Magog hills. Of the ancient Inhabitants of Cambridgeshire. Cambridgefhire is one of the counties which were in- habited by the Iceni ; but under what divifion this and the other counties inhabited by the fame people fell, when Britain became aRoman province, is not certainly known. It is however generally believed to have been Flavia Cae- farienfis, though theNotitia of theweftern empire places the Tribantes and Simeni, or Iceni, in the Britannia Secunda. We are acquainted by Tacitus, that the Iceni were a courageous warlike people ; and that when they fubmitted to the Romans, they received little damage from them till they were difarmed by Oftorius, in the reign of Clau- dius : this provoked them to rebel ; and then the Ro- mans, breaking through their fortifications, killed great numbers of them, and compelled them to f"bjec~tion. However, in thirty years time, they threw oft* the yoke; Prafutagus, king of the Iceni, being willing his family fhould live in peace after his death, bequeathed his king- dom to the emperor Nero ; the centurions paying no re- gard to his will, ravaged the country, plundered his houfe, whipped his wife Boadicea, ravifhed his daughters, dis- inherited the principal men, and treated the royal family as flaves. This ufage caufed the Iceni to take up arms again ; and they invited the Trinobantes, and others, to their affiftance, who were weary of the Roman yoke. Boadicea placed herfelf at the head of the Britifh army, and fell upon the Romans with irrefiftible fury ; fhe flew eighty thoufand of them, ravaged their colony at Cama- lodunum, now Maiden, in EfTex ; iS alio at Verulam, near St. Albans, in Hertfordshire : fhe alfo routed the ninth legion, and put the procurator, Catus Decianus, to flight. Paulinus Suetonius, the Roman lieutenant, was abfent at that time ; but after his return, he got together an army, and marched againft Boadicea, who was at the head of two hundred and thirty thoufand Britons. He came off conqueror ; upon which, fome fay, the queen died of grief, but Tacitus affirms it was by poifon.. After this they remained quiet, under the government of the Romans, till the Saxons infefted the fea-coafts. Thefe people at firft acfed as pirates, and gave great proof of their courage ; but when the Britons were plun- dered by the Pi£b and Scots, they fought for the affift- ance of the Saxons, who foon vanquished their enemies; but after this, fettled themfelves firft in one part of this iiland, and then in another, till at length they got pof- feffion of thefouth part, now called England, and divided it into feven kingdoms. Cambridgefhire became part of the kingdom of theEaft Angles ; and Uffa, a great Saxon commander, was the firft king. Befides this county, it alfo included Huntingdon, Norfolk, and Suffolk. This ifland was next inv?ded by the Danes, who conquered and kept poffeffion of it fifty years, till Edward the Elder regained it from them by force, and added this county to his own kingdom of the Weft Saxons. He and his fuc- ceffors put it in the hands of deputies ; and one of thefe was Ralph, a Hriton, who was poffeffed of it when Wil- liam the Conqueror invaded this iiland. He was one of thofe who confpired againft the Conqueror ; but his de- fign being difcovered, William feized on feveral of his confederates, many of whom he beheaded ; but Ralph himfelf fled : however, he was deprived of his honour, and afterwards attainted. The fenny country was, in the time of the Saxons, inhabited by a people diftinguifhed by the name of Girvii or Fenmen ; and the country in general was then in fuch a condition, that they ufed to walk about their bufinefs alofr, on a kind of ftilts. Camden fays, they were a rugged, uncivilized race, full of envy, for the more ad- vantageous fituation of their neighbours, whom, for the fake of diftinclion, they called Upland-men. Members of Parliament for this County. This county fends two members to parliament ; two knights of the fhire, two burgefies for the town of Cam- bridge, arid two reprefentatives for the univerfity. 37 V « u li BEDFORD^ [ 350 ] BEDFORDSHIRE. BEDFORDSHIRE is bounded on the north by the counties of Northampton and Huntingdon ; on the eaft, by Cambridgefhire ; on the weft, by Buckingham- shire ; and on the fouth, by Hertford/hire. It is of an oval form, being about twenty-two miles long, about fifteen broad, and nearly feventy-three in circumference ; and Ampthill, a market-town, and the mod centrical in the county, is diftant about forty-three miles north-weft of London. RIVERS, The principal river of this county is the Oufe, or Ife, which enters it on the weft fide, and after many mean- ders, leaves it on the eaft. It is navigable all the way, and divides the county into two parts, of which that to the fouth is moft confiderable. In its courfe it is joined by a fmall ftream, called the Ivel, which runs through part of the county from north to fouth. The Oufe, or Ife, is fuppofed to receive its name from Ifis, a name of Proferpine, an infernal goddefs, whom the ancient Britons worfhipped ; and it was very ufual for the ancient Heathens to confecrate rivers, as well as woods and mountains, to their infernal deities, and call them by their names. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Bedfordfhire . The Oufe is the only river navigable in this county, the navigation of which is continued to Bedford, from its mouth, at King's Lynn, in Norfolk. This naviga- tion is of the utmoft importance to the county, as all kinds of heavy goods, particularly coals, are brought to Bedford and the neighbouring places, at a very fmall ex- pence : but the navigation is very incomplete, and con- sequently, often tedious ; it might, however, be eaiily improved, and extended to Newport Pagnel, in Buck- inghamlhire. Air, Soil, and natural Productions. The air is pure and healthful, and the foil in general a deep clay. The county on the north fide of the Oufe is fruitful and woody ; on the fouth fide it is lefs fertile, though not barren. It produces wheat and barley in great abundance, and of an excellent kind : woad, a plant ufed by dyers, is alfo cultivated here; and the foil affords plenty of fuller's earth, an article of fo much importance to our woollen manufactory, that the expor- tation is prohibited by act of parliament. Remarks on the Husbandry of Bedfordfhire. The hufbandry in this county is different in different parts. About Luton, they plough three times for wheat, fow two bufhels and a half of feed upon an acre, and reap about fixteen bufhels on a medium. For barley they ftir three times, fow f< aiK, fwm Ampinill, is a lodge ; and near it a pear-tree, in which it is reported the illuftrious Sidney wrote his Arcadia ; and Pomfret, one of our minor poets, his verfes. The flairs by which this tree ufed to be afcended, have, of late years, been removed. At Milbrook, near Ampthill, was a fmall cell of Be- nedictines, dedicated to St. Mary, which belonged to the abbey of St. Albans, a market-town of Hertford- fliire. Bedford, the county town, where the affizes are always held, is clean, well built, and populous. Its diftance from London is forty-eight miles. It is divided by the Oufe into two parts, which croffes it in the direction of eaft and weft ; fo that it has, in fome refpects, the ap- pearance of two diftincf. towns ; the north and fouth parts are joined by an handfome ftone-bridge, on which were formerly two gates, but they were taken down in the year 1765, in order to make the paffage over it more commodious. The buildings of this town are in general good, and the ftreets broad, particularly the high ftreet : it is well inhabited, and contains five parifh-churches ; St. Paul's, the principal, is a noble ftructure ; St. Peter's and St. Cuthbert's ; thele are on the north fide the river, and St. Mary's and St. John's on the fouth. Here are likewife an Independent meeting-houfe, a Methodift tabernacle, and an elegant chapel for the Unitas Fratrum, or Moravians, with apartments for the brothers and fillers. The other public buildings are, a free-fchool, founded in the reign of queen Elizabeth, by Sir William. Harper, a native of Bedford, and fome time lord mayor of London : two hofpitals, one of them founded by Tho- mas Anifly, one of their reprefentatives in parliament ; a charity-fchool, an alms-houfe, and a very elegant feflions-houfe. Bedford gives the title of duke to the noble family of Ruffel : it is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, a recorder, two bailiffs, two chamberlains, a town-clerk, and two ferjeants. The liberties of the corporation extend about nine miles in circuit round the town : a member thereof, many years fince, bequeathed a field or two on the fpot now called Theobald's Row, Red Lion-ftreet, Eagle-ftreet, and its environs, near Red-Lion-fquare, London ; the leafes whereof expiring fome years fince, the eftate is become fo confiderable, that the corporation obtained an act of parliament to empower them to give portions to fervant-maids, for the encouragement of population ; fees with poor children, to bind them out to apprenticefhips, and other charitable donations. The coal trade here is very confiderable, extending above twenty miles diftance ; and coals are fold in Bedford at all times cheaper than in London, owing to the navigation of the river Oufe, and their not paying the London duties. Some writers are of opinion, that this town was the Laetodorum of Antoninus ; but this is not probable, be- caufe it neither Hands on a Roman military way, nor have any Roman coins been dug up here : it was, how- ever, certainly a place of repute during the Saxon Hep- tarchy, fince Offa, a powerful king of the Mercians, chofe this fpot for the place of his burial. It is faid that his tomb was of lead, and that a chapel was built over it ; but the Oufe fome time afterwards overflowing its banks, fwept away both the chapel and tomb. Bedford having been formerly deftroyed by the Danes, was repaired and enlarged by Edward I. furnamed the Elder, in the beginning of the tenth century, who alfo built a fmall town on the fouth fide of the river, which was then called Mikefgate. When William the Conqueror had obtained the fo- vereignty of England, he gave Bedford to Hugh de Beau- champ, who came over with him, and was called Baron of Bedford. Pagan de Beauchamp, a younger fon of Hugh, who fucceeded his elder brother, and was third baron of Bedford, built a ftrong caftle after the Norman conqueft, which fuftered greatly in the civil wars that happened afterwards. King Stephen took it in the year 1 1 38, but not till after he had loft many of his men. Milo de Beauchamp maintaining it againft him in favour of the king of the Scots, to revenge himfelf on Stephen, who would have taken the government from him. Wil- liam de Beauchamp, then lord of the caftle, delivered it into the hands of the barons, who took up arms againft king John ; but in the fpace of two years, they were forced to furrender it to Fulco de Brent, after a clofe fiege, to whom, for that fervice, it was given by the above-mentioned monarch. Fulco afterwards rebelling againft his prince, the better to fortify his caftle, pulled down all the religious houfes near the town. Henry III. however, after a fiege of fixty days, took it, and hanged William de Brent, Fulco's brother, with twenty-four other knights, on the fpot; and immediately ordered the ditches to be filled up, and the works to be demoiifhed ; preferving only the inner part of the caftle ftanding, which he gave as a refidence to William de Beauchamp, from whom Fulco de Brent had taken it. In Leland's time it was level with the ground, and the fite whereon it flood is now a fine bowling-green, fh.ewn to travellers as a great curiofity. There is now at Bedford a priory or hofpital adjoining to St. John's church : it confifts of a mafter, who is rector of the church, and ten poor men. This houfe is thought by fome to have been founded in 980, by one Robert Departs, who was the firft mafter ; but others are of opinion, rhat it was built and endowed by fome townfmen in the time of Edward II. It is dedicated to B E D F O R D S H I R E. to St. John the Eaptift ; and at the diflblution, the yearly value was rated at twenty-one pounds and eight-pence. The patronage is in the mayor, aldermen, bailiffs, and common-council of Bedford. Some townfmcn founded an hofpital here, in the fouth part of the town, fome time before the thirtieth of Ed- ward I. and dedicated it to St. Leonard. In this hof- pital there were fix chaplains, and the revenue was valued at forty-fix pounds fix fhillings and eight-pence ; and in the time of Edward IE Mabilia de Patefhall, lady of Bletnefhoe, founded a houfe of Francifcan friars in the north-well part of the town ; valued by Dugdale at three pounds thirteen fhillings and two-pence ; and by Speed, at five pounds per annum. The town of Bedford fends two members to parlia- ment, has two weekly markets, the firft held on Tuefday, on the fouth fide of the river, for cattle, &c. and the fecond on Saturday, on the north fide, for corn, &c. and fix annual fairs, viz. the firft Tuefday in Lent, the twenty-firft of April, the fifth of July, the twenty-firft of Auguft, the eleventh of October, and the nineteenth of December, for cattle of all forts. About two miles diftant from Bedford, there were the traces of a caftle, called by Leland Rifingho-caftle, and fuppofed by him to have anciently belonged to D'Efpec, founder of Warden abbey : no part of it was ftanding in his time ; but the area might eafily be traced ; and the great round hill, where the dungeon flood, was complete. By whom, or when this fortrefs was built, does not appear. The religious houfe, called Newenham, about a mile diftant from this town, was the place where Roifia, wife of Pagan de Beauchamp, baron of Bedford, founded a priory of the order of St. Auftin, for the reception of the iecular canons or prebendaries from St. Paul's, Bedford, which was a college founded before the Norman con- queft. Thefe religious were obliged to remove their habitation, becaufe one of them had unfortunately killed a butcher in a quarrel. Simon de Beauchamp, fon of Roifia, has by fome been confidered as the founder of this priory ; and was ftiled on his tomb, which flood before the high altar of the old church, that was demolifhed in the time of king John, " Fundator de Newenham." This monaftery was dedicated to St. Paul, and accor- ding to Dugdale, had yearly revenues to the value of two hundred and ninety-three pounds fifteen fhillings and eleven-pence ; but Speed fays, they amounted to three hundred and forty-three pounds fifteen fhillings and five-pence. At Elllow, about the diftance of a mile from Bedford, and oppofite to Newenham, was an abbey of Benedictine nuns, founded in the reign of William I. by Judith, niece to the Conqueror, and wife of Walthe earl of Huntingdon. It was dedicated to the Holy Trinity, St. Mary, and St. Helena, the wife of Conftantine the Great ; and was valued, at the fuppreflion of religious houfes, at two hundred and eighty-four pounds twelve (hillings and eleven-pence per annum, according to Dug- dale ; but by Speed, three hundred and twenty -five pounds two fhillings and a penny. Harewood, or Harold, diftant about eight miles north- weft of Bedford, was formerly a market-town, but the market has for fome time paft been difcontinued : here are ftill, however, three annual fairs, viz. Tuefday before the twelfth of May, Tuefday before the fifth of July, and the Tuefday before the tenth of October ; all for cattle. Here was formerly a priory of canons and nuns, according to the inftitution of St. Nicholas of Arronafia, which afterwards confifted only of a priorefs, and three or four nuns of the order of St. Auftin, dedicated to St. Peter. It was founded in the year 1150, in the reign of king Stephen, by Sampfon le Fort. Malcolm, king of Scotland, as earl of Huntingdon, confirmed certain lands to the prior, canons, and lifters of this priory, and his example was followed by William, king of Scotland. Henry IV. king of England, gave to the prior and nuns one mefiuage of land, in Chalkenftone, of the yearly value of two fhillings, together with the advowion of that church. Part of the priory is ftill remaining. At the diflblution, the lands were rated at forty-feven pounds three fhillings and two-pence per annum ; but the clear value was no more than forty pounds eighteen fhillings and two-pence. At Odhill, orWoodhill, which was formerly called Wohull, and lies on the banks of the Oufe, near Hare- wood, there was anciently a caftle belonging to certain perfons called the Barons of Wohull, having had a ba- rony granted to them of three hundred knights fees in feveral counties : a knight's fee was an inheritance in land fufficient at that time to maintain a knight, and was by the ftatute of king Edward II. fixed at twenty pounds a year. This caftle has been long fince in ruins. At Melchbume, about eight miles north-weft of Bed- ford, was a preceptory of the Knights Hofpitalers of St. John of Jerufalem, which, in the time of Henry L was endowed by the lady Alice de Claremont, countefs of Pembroke ; and at the diflblution, had lands to the value of two hundred and forty-one pounds nine fhil- lings and ten-pence per annum. At Caldwell, near this town, there was a houfe of religious brethren of the order of the Holy Crofs, founded by Robert, the fon of William of Houghton, in the time of king John, and dedicated to the honour of the Blefled Virgin. Some time before the diflblution, it was con- verted into a priory for about eight Auguftine canons, and was dedicated to St. John the Baptift, and John the Evangelift. Dugdale fays, it was valued atone hundred and nine pounds eight fhillings and five-pence per annum; and Speed, at one hundred and forty-eight pounds fifteen; fhillings and ten-pence. Bedfordfhire is one of the three counties, whofe ancient inhabitants were called Cattieuchlani by the Romans - r fome fuppofe they were originally called CaJJii, (romGeJ/i, a word fignifying, in the Britifh language, Men of Valour ; the inhabitants of this diftrict having been remarkable for military prowefs. Bellinas is like wife fuppofed to have been a name of honour, aflumed by all their princes. It was a Caflibellinus or Cafllvell annus, who was chofen to command all the armies of Britain, when Caefar invaded the ifland. The Greeks therefore might very probably give the name of Cattieuchlani, or Cattaellani, to the people thofe princes governed. Dr. Slare, in the Philofophical Tranfactions, tells us, that his grandfather, a gentleman of this county, at the age of eighty-five years, had a complete new fet of teeth 5 and his hair, which was as white as fnow, became gra- dually darker ; after which, he lived above fourteen years in great health and vigour; and in the hundredth year of his age, died of a plethora, for want of bleeding. Curious Plants found in Bedfordfhire. Maiden Pinks, or, as the feedfmen call it, Mated- Pink ; Caryophilka minor refrem nojlras, Raii ; found on the Sand y liillo, ntui tin* I\\yr»\an mmp Later Autumnal Gentian, with leaves like centaury j Gentianella fugax Aututnnalis elatior. Centaurii minoris foliis, Park ; found on Barton hills, not far from Luton. Milk-tare of Diofcorides ; Glaux Diofcoridis, Ger. found on the fame hills. Crefted Cow-wheat ; Melampyrum Crijlatum, J. B. found plentifully near Blunham, in Wixamtree hundred. Black Currans, or Quinzy Berries ; Ribes nigrum, vulgo diclum olente, J. B. found wild near Blunham. White Lilly of the Valley ; Lilium convallium album, C. B. found plentifully in the woods near Wooburn. Woad ; Jfatis fativa vel latifolia, C. B. This plant has been long cultivated in England for the ufes of dying : the ancient Britons painted their bodies with it, calling it by the name of GlaJJe, which fignifies blue, or fky colour. Some have thought that the plant ufed for dying, and the wild plant, were no ways different, except by the effects of cultivation ; but this Mr. Miller, after many years experience, proved to be a miftake. The fame ingenious writer gives very ample directions, with refpect to the improvements neceflary to be made in the culture of this plant j and we have reafon to hope, that, fince the fociety for the encouragement of arts, B E D F O R *** arts, &c. has taken it in hand, it may foon be brought to ^perfection. It may not, however, be unpleafing in this place, to fay a few words reflecting the preparation of it. It yields three or four crops of leaves in a feafon ; the two firft of which are by far the beft, therefore generally mixed. When the leaves are gathered, they are carried to the mill, to be ground and fitted for making into balls, which is next done; thefe balls are commonly dried on hurdles, and afterwards reduced into powder, which is fpread on a floor and watered; this is called couching : here it heats and fmoaks, till by conftantly turning, it becomes dry ; this they term fthering it. When this procefs is over, it is bagged, and valued according to its goodnefs. Remarkable Particulars, not mentioned in the fore- going Account of Bedfordfhire. We would advife any traveller, who pafles through the county of Eedford, to make Northill in their route, were it only for the fatisfaction of viewing two fmall pieces of painted glafs done by J.Oliver in 1660, be- longing to the rector, the Rev. Mr. Maxey. They are very fmall, but each has a fly, fo exquifitely painted, as to exeeed the power even of imagination to conceive ; the wings are coloured on one fide, and the bodies on the other of the glafs, and are touched in fo lively and fpirited a manner, (efpecially one, which is fuperior to the other, that without fruit) that it is difficult to believe them but painting, and not life itfelf ; the light appears through the body at the junction with the tail in the moft inimitable manner ; and the roundnefs of the fly, with the lightnefs of its claws, are reprefented in the boldeft and fulleft relief. In a word, it is truly admirable. In the chancel of the church is a very fine painted win- dow, in good prefervation, by the fame matter. The parifh of Sandy, near Northill, is much noted for its gardens ; there are above one hundred and fifty acres of land occupied by many gardeners, who fupply the whole country, for many miles, with garden fluff, even to Hertford. We examined their grounds with much attention, and inquired concerning their practice of a very fenfible gardener, reflecting two or three articles of their culture, which are, or ought to be the bufinefs of farmers in many fituations. D S H I R E. 357 Their foil is a rich black fand, two or three feet deep. Carrots they fow about New Lady-day, upon ground dug one fpit deep, hoe them very carefully three times ; they do it by the day, and the three cofts them from twenty to thirty {hillings an acre, as the crop happens to be ; they fet them out about eight or ten inches from plant to plant, and get on a medium two hundred bufhels upon an atre. We drew feveral roots, and found them from one foot to eighteen inches long. Parfnips they cultivate exactly in the fame manner," but the product never equals that of carrots, by fifty or fixty bufhels. The prices of carrots vary from one (hilling to four (hil- lings a bufhel, but the firft is very low. Potatoes they plant at the fame time ; twenty bufhels plant an acra, at the diftance of about one foot every way ; they hoe Uietn three times, but not at all before they come up, which is practifed in Effex about Ilford. They reckon the midfummer dun fort to yield beft; a middling crop is two hundred and fifty bufhels upon an acre; they al- ways manure for them, either with dung or allies, about twenty loads, but afhes they prefer. The price varies from one (hilling and four-pence to two (hillings a bufhel. Of onions, they fow vaft quantities ; the time, about a fortnight before Lady-day ; they hoe and weed them always five times, at theexpence of four pounds an acre* fet them out fix inches afunder, and their crops rife to above two hundred bufhels, but their price from fixteen pence (which is very low) to two (hillings. They al- ways manure for them with great care. Thefe gardeners give from forty (hillings to five pounds rent per acre, for their land ; it is, as we before obferved, a rich loofe black fand of a good depth, and very favourably pro- tected from adverfe winds by feveral confiderable hills. It is a remarkable, and a very pleafing fight, to behold crops of onions, potatoes, French beans, and even whole fields of cucumbers, intermixed with crops of wheat, barley, turnips, &c. Members of Parliament for Bedfordfhire. The county of Bedford fends four members to par- liament; two knights of the (hire for the county, and two burgeffes for the town of Bedford. 38 Yyyy HUNTING- PB5* J HUNTING TONSHIRK. THIS county is one of the fmalleft in England. It is bounded on the north and weft fides by Northamptonfhire ; on the eaft, by Cambridgefhire ; and on the fouth, by Bedfordfhire. It meafures twenty- four miles from north to fouth, eighteen from eaft to weft, and about fixty-feven in circumference. It con- tains four hundreds, fix market-towns, feventy-nine parifhes, about eight thoufand two hundred and fifty houfes, and fifty thoufand inhabitants. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of Lincoln. RIVERS and M E E R S. The chief rivers of this coanty are the Oufe and the Nen. The Oufe derives its name from Ifis, already defcribed in our account of Bedfordfhire. It rifes near Brackley, a borough town of Northamptonfhire ; and running north-eaft through Bedfordfhire, enters this county at St. Neots, a market-town,, from whence, in the fame direction, it continues its courfe by Hunting- ton, and fome other towns ; and traverfing Huntington- fhire, Cambridgefhire, and Norfolk ; and being joined by feveral other rivers in its courfe, it falls into the Ger- man ocean near Lynn Regis, a confiderable borough of the county of Norfolk, The Nen rifes near Daventry, a market-town of Northamptonfhire ; and running north-eaft, and almoft parallel to the- river Oufe, winds round the north-weft and north boundaries of this county, where it forms feveral large bodies of water, called by the inhabitants, Meers. The firft of thefe meers or lakes is that called Wittlefey Meer, not far from Peterborough, a city and bifhop's fee in Northamptonfhire. This meer is no lefs than fix miles long, and three broad ; and other con- fiderable meers formed here by this river, are Ug meer, Brick meer, Ramfey meer, and Benwick meer ; from whence the river Nen, continuing its courfe through Cambridgefhire and Lincolnfhire, falls into the German ocean not far from Wifbich, in the county of Cambridge. Thefe large bodies of water, particularly Wittlefey meer, are frequently thrown into the moft violent agitations, without any apparent eaufe, to the great terror and danger of thofe who pafs the lake, particularly the fifhermen Thefe agitations are generally luppofed to arife from eruptions of fubterranean winds. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Hunting- tonfhire. The only navigable river in this county is the Oufe. The navigation partes by Erith, St. Ives, Huntington, St. Neots, he. to Bedford ; and has been already men- tioned in our accounts of Bedfordfhire and Cambridge- fhire. Air, Soil, end natural Productions. The air of this county is rendered lefs wholefome than that of fome others, by the great number of fens, meers, and other ftanding waters with which it abounds, efpe- eially in the north part. The foil is in general very fruitful. In the hilly parts, or dry lands, it yields great crops of corn, and affords excellent pafture for fhcep. In the lower lands, the meadows are exceeding rich, and feed abundance of fine cattle, not only for {laughter, but for the dairy ; and the cheefe made at a village called Stilton, near Yaxley, a market-town, known by the name of Stilton cheefe, is ufually ftiled the Parmefan of England. The inhabi- tants of Huntingtonfhire are well fupplied with fifh and water-fowl, by the rivers and meeia; but they have icarce any firing befidcs turf. [ Remarks on (/«IIusbandxy of HuntingdonfliM-e. From Sandy to St. Neot's the country is chiefly open, and the crops not equal to thofe around Bedford. About Hale Wefton, the foil is a gravelly loam, with variations. The open fields let at feven millings and feven fhillings and fix-pence per acre, and the inclofed pafturts about feventeen fhillings. The farms run from forty to two hundred pounds a year. Their courfe of crops, 1 Fallow 2 Wheat 3 Peafe, &cc. And i Turnips 2 Barley 3 Peafe, &c. They plough four times for wheat, fow two bufhels, and reap a,t a medium fifteen. For fummertilth barley they ftir four times, and twice the turnip land, fow four bufhels, and reckon the mean produce at three quarters. They give but one earth for oats, fow four bufhels, and get at an average two quarters. For peafe they plough but once, fow four bufhels, and reckon twelve bufhels the mean produce. For beans they likewife ftir but once, fow them broad-caft, four bufhels to the acre, never hoe them, butfometimes hook out the rank weeds, and turn fheep in ; fifteen bufhels the medium. For turnips they give three earths, hoe them once ; reckon the mean value per acre at thirty-five fhillings, and feed all off" with fheep : they ufe from three to fix horfes in a plough at length, and do, after the breaking the fallow, five rood a day. The profit of a cow they reckon at four pounds. The particulars of a farm, 66o Acres 6o Grafs 6oo Arable £.300 Rent 20 Horfes 20 Cows 650 Sheep 8 Servants 10 Labourers. LABOUR. In harveft, thirty-fix to forty fhillings the month, and board. In hay-time, one milling and fix-peace a day, and beer. In winter, one milling a day, and fmall beer. Reaping wheat, five to feven fhillings. Mowing corn, one fhilling. grafs, one fhilling and fix-pence, to one mil- ling and eight-pence. Hoeing turnips, four fhillings and fix-pence to five fhillings. Ditching (the reparation) four -pence a pole. Threfhing wheat, one fhilling a load, or five bufhels. fpring corn, one fhilling a quarter. From Kimbolton to Thrapfton, in Northamptonfhire, the country is in general open, very little inclofed be- fides their paftures : we fhould obferve, that quite from Newport Pagne] to Thrapftone, the lands are all ploughed into broad arched lands about a perch and a half over, and a yard higher in the centre than the furrows. This cuftom is a very good one, where the water is let clean out of the furrows, but we have more than once, in winter, feen fuch furrows two feet deep in water. About Great Catworth, the foil is very good ; clay in general, but fome gravelly loams. It lets the arable for about fourteen fhillings an acre, and the grafs twenty fhillings. Farms, HUNTING T O N S H I R E> 359 Farms, from thiity to one hundred pounds a year. Their courfe of crops, 1 Fallow 2 Wheat or barley 3 Beans, peafe or oats. They plough three times for wheat, fow two bufhels, and reap about two and a half, or three quarters. For barley they give the fame tillage, fow four bufhels, and reckon three quarters the mean produce. For oats ihey ftir but once, fow four bufhels, and gain at an average two quarters and a half. They fow but few peafe ; but when they do, they plough but once, fow four bufhels, and reap on a medium two quarters. For beans they plough likewife but once, fow all broad-caft, four bufhels, never hoe, but fometimes feed the weeds off with fheep. They never fow turnips. In their ploughs, which are all foot ones, they ufe from four to eight horfes, and after one or two earths, do an acre and an half a day. All their dung they lay on their bailey lands, but feldom mix it with earth. The particulars of a farm were, 250 Acres £. 100 Rent 1 1 Horfes 20 Cows 200 Sheep 4 Servants 2 Labourers LABOUR. In harveff, thirty fhillings a month and board, with carriage of a load of wood. In hay-time, one {hilling and fix-pence a day, and fmall beer. In winter, eight-pence a day, and fmall beer, and a aiefs of milk of a morning. Reaping of wheatj four fhillings. Mowing eorn, one fhilling. grafs, one fhilling and four-pence. Ditching, five-pence per pole. Threfhing wheat, two fhillings per quarter. ■ fp r ' n g com, one fhilling. TRADE. This county is not remarkable for any manufacture ; its trade therefore chiefly confiits in fuch commodities as are its natural productions. Market Towns, isfc. The market-towns are, St. Neots, Kimbolton, Hun- tington, St. Ives, Ramfey, and Yaxley. St. Neots, vulgarly ftiled St. Needs, and in the Saxon annals, St. Neod, was fo called from a monaftery of the fame name in this place, which was burnt by the Danes. It is fifty-fix miles from London, and is a large, well- built, populous town. It has a handfome church, with a remarkable fine fteeple ; and an elegant ftone bridge over the Oufe, by which river coals are brought here, and fold throughout the county. Here is a charity-fchool for twenty-four poor children, which was opened in the year 171 1. According to the Ely hiftorian, St. Neot firft placed monks in this town ; but being difperfed by the Danes, they were afterwards reftored, and the monaftery again endowed by the bounty of Leofric, and his wife Leofleda, upon the encouragement of Ethelwold, bifhop of Win- chefter, and Brithnod, abbot of Ely. It was a priory of Black monks, fubordinate to Ely, till after the Con- queft, when Gilbert, earl of Clare, violently expelled thefe religious; but about the year 1 1 13, Bohefia, wife of Richard, fon to the faid earl Gilbert, gave this manor to the abbey of Bee in Normandy, to which it became a cell. It was feized during the wars with France, among other alien priories ; but made prioratus indigena by king Henry IV. being then in the patronage of the earl of Stafford. Its revenues were valued, on the fuppreffion, at two hundred and fifty-fix pounds one fhilling and three-pence a year. This town has a weekly market on Saturday, and fix annual fairs, viz. Afcenfion Thurfday, Corpus Chrifti Thurfday, the eighteenth of June, and the feventeenth of December, for cattle of all forts and pedlary ware ; and the firft of Auguft, for hiring fervants. At Hailweftpn, near this town, there are two fprings, one of which has a brackifh tafte, and is recommended in all cutaneous diforders ; the other is frefh, and faid to be ferviceable againft dimneis of fight. Kimbolton is the Kinnibantum of the Romanf, and the modern name is probably a variation of the ancient. It is diftant fron London fixty-two miles, and has a caftle, the feat of his Grace the duke of Manchcfter, fituated dole to the town. It is a quadrangular build- ing : the hall is fifty feet long by twenty-five broad, and hung round with family portraits, fome of which are very good. Out of it you entep, on the right hand, the blue drawing-room, thirty-five by twenty ; over the chimney-piece hangs a very fine picture of Prometheus, the horrible expreffion of which is very great. Between the windows are fix fmall portraits, excellently done, particularly the man and woman in the middle ; his face is very expreffive, and the finifhing in her's the fame. The yellow drawing-room thirty-five by twenty-two, with a handfome glafs luftre in the centre. Here are, A moft admirable portrait of lord Holland, with an attendant officer, and a perfon adjufling his fafh ; the heads and hands, the drapery and the relief of the figures, are all fine. A Virgin and fleeping child. Strange attitude. Virgin and child. Eyes very bad. The faloon is forty by twenty-feven, hung with crimfon velvet; the pillars in two corners, we fuppofe, were neceffary to the building, but they are handfome ones ; the flabs are of various marbles in mofaic : over the chimney, a picture of Hector and Andromache, the colours, attitudes, and expreffion of which, are by no means pleafing. The ftate bed-chamber, twenty-feven by twenty-one, is hung with cut velvet, the pier glafs and flab glaffes from Venice ; the border of the firft is pretty. In the clofet is a Magdalen ; the expreffion of pain in her coun- tenance is not amifs ; the thought feems borrowed from lord Pembroke's Venus. Through the ftair-cafe is a fmall room hung with very fine drawings after Raphael and Julio Romano. The dining-room is thirty by twenty-feven. 1 The library twenty-four fquare ; the book-cafes pret:y. Kimbolton has a weekly market held on Friday, and a fmall annual fair on the eleventh of December, for cattle and hogs. At Stonely, a fmall diftance eaft of Kimbolton, Wil- liam earl of Eiiex, who lived about the year 11 80, is faid by Leland to have founded a priory of canons, of the order of St. Auftin, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, This hOufe confifted of feven canons, and was valued, on the diflblution, at forty-fix pounds five fhillings per anmim. Huntington, or Huntningdon, is a derivation from the Saxon Huntandune, or Hunters Down, a name which was acquired from the conveniency of this diftrict for hunting, which was one intire foreft, till it was deftroyed by the kings Henry II. and III. and finally by Edward I. who cut all the trees down, except what flood on his own ground. Huntington is the Ihiretown, fituated on a hill on the north fide of the river Oufe, over which there is a fine ftone bridge. It is diftant fifty-feven miles north from London, and had formerly fifteen churches, which, in Mr. Camden's time, were reduced to four, and fince, by the civil wars, to two. This decay is afcribed by Speed to the alteration of the courfe of the river, by the villainy of one Grey, who malicioufly ob- itructed its navigation to the cown, which had before been enriched by it : it is, however, ftill navigable for (mail veffels, as high as Bedford. King John granted to this town, by charter, a coroner, toll and cufto'm, a recorder, town-clerk, and two bailiffs; but it is at pre- fent incorporated by the ftile of a mayor, twelve alder- men, and burgeffes. The afiizes are always held here, and in this place is the county gaol. It is a populous, trading HUNTINGTONSHIRE. trading town, and confifts chiefly of one long ftreet, tolerably well built. It is a thoroughfare in the great north road ^ and for the accommodation of travellers, here are feveral good inns. Here is a handfome market- place, and a good grammar-fchool. One Mr. Richard Fiflibourn, a citizen of London, but a native of this place, gave two thoufand pounds to the town, to be laid out in charitable ufes. The meadows on the banks of the river Oufe are not to be furpafl'ed for beauty by any in England ; and in fummer, they are covered with fuch numerous herds of cattle and flocks of fheep, as is almoft incredible. This town is remarkable - for having been the birth - place of Oliver Cromwell, and for giving the title of earl formerly to fome princes of Scotland, as it has to the Haftings family ever fince Henry VIII. About the time of the Conqueft, here was a mint for coinage ; and near the bridge there is a mount, and the ground plot of a cattle, built by king Edward the Elder, in the year 917, and enlarged with feveral new works by David king of Scotland, to whom king Stephen gave the borough of Huntington, for an augmentation of his eftate ; but this cattle was demolifhed by king Henry II. to put an end to the frequent quarrels that arofe from a competition for the earldom of Huntington, between the Scottifh kings and the family of St. Liz„ Here were formerly feveral religious houfes. The emprefs Maud founded an abbey ; and there was a priory of Black canons here, dedicated to St. Mary, and founded in or near the parochial church of that faint, before the year 973, which, was removed to a place without the town by Euftace de Luvetot, in the time of king Stephen or Henry II. where it continued till the diflblution, when it confuted of a prior, eleven canons, and thirty- four fervants ; and the revenues of it were valued at one hundred and eighty-feven pounds thirteen (hillings and eight-pence per annum. Here was likewife an ancient hofpital dedicated to St. Margaret, for the maintenance of a matter,, brethren, and feveral leprous and infirm perfons ; to whom Malcolm king of Scotland, and earl of Huntington, was a confiderable benefactor, if not founder: he died in the year 1165; and this hofpital was annexed by king Henry VI. in the twenty-fourth year of his reign, after the death or ceffion of the mafter, to Trinity Hall in Cambridge, and confirmed by king Edward IV. in the firft year of his reign. There was alfo another hofpital here, founded by David earl of Huntington, in the time of Henry II. dedicated to St. John ; and on the fuppreffion, valued at nine pounds four {hillings a year. At the north end of the town,, there was a houfe of Friars Auguftines, founded before the nineteenth year of Edward I. Huntington fends two members to parliament, has two weekly markets, held on Monday and Saturday ; and an annual fair on the twenty-fifth of March, for pedlars wares. Oppofite to this town, on the other fide of the Oufe, lies Godmanchefter, fituated in a fertile foil abounding with corn. It is allowed to be the largeft village in England ; and fo remarkable for hufbandry, that no town in the kingdom employs fo many ploughs : this ufeful art has received greater improvement from the in- habitants of this place, than from any other people in the world ; they are faid to hold their lands by a tenure, which obliges them, when any king of England panes that way, to attend him, with their ploughs and horfes adorned with ruftic trophies. They have boafted, that upon fome occafions they prefented a train, confifting of no lefs than nine fcore ploughs. When king James I. palled through this town, on his journey from Scotland, the farmers of Godmanchefter met him with a cavalcade of feventy new ploughs, each drawn by a team of horfes ; this fo pleafed the king, that he incorporated them by the name of Two Bailiffs, twelve Afliftants, and the Commonalty of the Borough of Godmanchefter. Here is an annual fair held on EafterTuefday, for all forts of cattle; and a fchool, called the Free Grammar School of Queen Elizabeth. Near this place, in the London road between Huntington and Caxton, is a tree, well known to travellers by the name of Beggar's Bufh j from whence it derived this name, is uncertain ; but it is re- ported, that king James I. being on a progrefs this way, with Sir Francis Bacon, his lord chancellor; and hear- ing that he had laviflily rewarded a man for fome mean prefent, told him, " He would fodn come to Beggar's " Bufti, and be the means of his coming there too, if " they continued both fo very bountiful :" and 'tis now a proverb common in the county, when a man is obferved to fquander his fortune, <■ That he is in the way to Beggar's Bufh.' Antiquarians have almoft all agreed, that Godman- chefter, or Godmancefter, is the fame city which Anto- ninus, in his Itinerary, calls Duroliponte, by the miftake only of one letter; for Durojiponte, in the Biitifh lan- guage, fignifies a bridge over the Oufe, which bridge Godmanchefter has to this day. In the time of the Saxons, this town loft the Britifh or Reman name, and acquired that of Gormancefter, from a cattle built here by Gorman the Dane, to whom thefe parts were ceded by the peace with king Alfred ; and from the Saxon name, Gormancefter, the prefent name is immediately derived. Many Roman coins have been dug up in this place, and fome human fkeletons, faid to have been of a gigantic fize. In the road between this place and Huntington, is a wooden bridge erected over a rivulet, from motives of gratitude and public charity; with this infeription : Robertas Co»k y emergens aquis, hue vlatoribus fatrum, J. D. 1636, That is, Robert Cook, having efcaped the danger of drowning, confecrated this for the ufe of travellers, in the year 1636. In the neighbourhood of this village, the ancient family of the Goldfboroughs had a feat not many years ago ; and on the weft fide of it is at prefent a noble, though antique feat of the earl of Sandwich, called Hinchinbrooke Houfe. The gardens are very fine, and kept in excellent repair ; but the fituation is much ob- fcured by the town of Huntington. To this place William the Conqueror is faid to have removed the nuns of Ettefley, in Cambridgefhire, and is therefore reckoned the founder of the little priory here, which was of the Benedictine order, dedicated to St. James, and valued upon the diflblution, when there were only four nuns in it, at feventeen pounds one fhilling and four-pence per annum. At a fmall diftance from Godmanchefter lies a little village called Bugden, in which ftands the ancient palace of the bifhops of Lincoln. The houfe is ple_afantly fituated, and the garden very large, and furrounded by a deep moat of water. The chapel, though fmall, is remarkably pretty ; in it is an organ painted againft the wall, in a feeming organ-loft, fo properly placed, and well executed, that it is impoflible at firft to difcover the deception. St. Ives derived its name, according to Camden, from one Ivo, a Perfian bifhop, who, about the year 6oo, came over to England, where he preached the gofpel, and died at this place. It was formerly called Slepe. It is diftant from London fifty-feven miles, and ftands upon the Oufe, over which it has a fine ftone bridge. In the ninth century it had a mint, as appears by the Saxon coin found here, and not many years patt, was a flouriftiing town, but part of it was unfortunately burnt down : it was however rebuilt, and is at prefent a pretty neat market-town. It was once remarkable for its me- dicinal waters. Here Cromwell the ufurper rented a farm, before he obtained a feat in parliament, where he endeavoured to repair his fortune, after having wafted his paternal eftate by a life of profligacy. About the yeariooi, Ednoth, the abbot of Ramfey abbey, built a church here, dedicated to St. Ives, in which he placed a prior and fome Benedictine monks, fubordinate to Ramfey. This town has a weekly market held on Monday, and two annual fairs, viz. Whitfun-Monday, and the tenth of October, for cheefe, and all forts of cattle. Somerfliarn II U N T I N G T 0 N S H I R E. Somerftnm is a fmall village about three miles north- e.ift of St. Ives, fituatcd among the fens. Here was formerly a large palace belonging to the bifliops of Ely, from wliofe fee it was alienated many years finee, and was in the pofTeflion of Anthony Hammond, Efqj one of tie commiilioners of the navy, in the reign of queen Ann. The palace was called Somerfham Place. Mr. Wood, in his Athena; Oxonienfis, fays, th.t Somer- fham, with its appurtenances, was part of the jointure of queen Henrietta-Maria ; but that Cole Walton, one of the king's judges, obtained a fettlement of it on him- felf and ins defcendants, in return for the great fervice he had done the parliament. Ramfey, or Ran s Ifle, called by the Saxons Ra- merige, is every where encompafled with fens, except on the weft fide, where" it joins the Terra firma by a caufeway, two miles long, inclofed with elders, reeds, and bulrufhcs, that in, the fpring make a beautiful ap- pearance '; to 'which the gardens, corn-fields, and rich paftures adjoining, are no fmall addition. It is fixty- nine' miles diftaut from London, and was of extraordi- nary note, being proverbially called Ramfey the Rich, before the diflblution of a wealthy abbey which flood in this place, the abbots of which were mitred, and fat in parliament. Here is a charity-fchool for poor girls. The meers in the neighbourhood of this town abound with water- fowls, and fifli, particularly eels, and large pikes, an advantage which renders the market of this place one of the moft plentiful and cheap in England for fuch commodities. Upon the twenty-firft of May, 1763, this town was greatly impaired by a fire, which deftroyed upwards of an hundred houfes. Here was formerly a rich and famous abbey, of which fome part of the old gate-houfe, together with the tomb of Ailwin, the founder, is ft ill ftanding. This tomb is adorned with a ftatue of him, which is thought to be the moft an- cient piece of Englifh fculpture now extant, and has the following remarkable infeription : Hie Requiescit Ailwinys Incliti Regis Eadgari Cognatus, Totivs Anglic Aldermannvs, et Hvivs Sacri Coenobii Miracvlosvs Fvndator. Ailwin is re- prefented holding two keys and a ragged flaff' in his right hand, as the enfigns of his offices. He is ftikd alderman of all England, and duke and earl of the Eaft- Angles. In the year 969, he built an abbey of Bene- dictine monks, and dedicated it to St. Mary and St. Be- nedict. Its yearly revenues, about the time of the dif- folution, were valued at feventeen hundred and fixteen pounds twelve {hillings and four-pence a year. In the year 1721, a great quantity of Roman coins were found here, thought to have been hidden by the monks on fome incurfions of the Danes. Mr. Camden fays, that the Danifli king Canute raifed a paved caufe- way, at a vaft expence, from Ramfey to Peterborough, which run ten miles : he thinks it was called Linger- dalp, or King's Delf ; but another author obferves, that the name of King's Delf is found upon record in Ed- gar's time, and that Delf does not fignify paved way, but ditch, as appears by a ditch between Ramfey and Wittlefey Meer, which is fometimes called SwerdesDelf, and fometimes Knoul Delf, but now Steeds Dike. It parts this county from Cambridgefhire, and is faid to be occafioned by the following accident. King Canute's family pafiing over Wittlefey Meer, in their way from Peterborough to Ramfey, their veflel was caft away in one of the commotions that frequently happen in thefe meers, and feveral lives were loft ; upon this the king, to prevent the like dilafters in future, ordered his army to mark out a ditch with their fwords and Iheins, which gave rife to the name of Swerdes Delf ; and afterwards employed labourers to dig, clean, and perfect this un- dertaking. This town has a weekly market on Wednefday, and and an annual fair on the twenty-fecond of July, for pedlary wares. Yaxley is fituated in the fens, at thediftance of feventy- two miles from London ; and on Wittlefey Meer there is a fen of its own name. It is a neat little town, has a church with a handfome and lofty fpire ; and the houfes in general are well built. ' Here is a weekly market cn Tuefday, and an annual fair on Afcenfion Thurfday, for horles and flieep. South of Yaxley lies a village called Connington, or Cunnington, where was formerly the feat of Sir Robert Cotton, the learned antiquarian and friend of the great Camden. This gentleman had a choice collection of Roman inferiptions from all parts <>f the world. The houfe was built in a magnificent manner, of hewn flone, but now lies in difmal ruins. Near it is a moft beautiful church, v/ith a tower, the windows of which are moft curioufly painted. Sir Robert was founder of the Cot- ton library: he ordered a pool to be dug here, wherein was found the fkeleton of a fifti, near twenty .eet long, lying fix feet below the furface of the ground, and as much above the level of the fens. At this town are to be feen, within a fquare ditch, the relicks of an ancient caftle, which was given by king Canute to Turkill, a Danifhlord, who called in Sueno, king of Denmark, to plunder the nation. To. Sattry Abbey, a village about a mile fouth-eaft of Connington, Simon ea.rl of North- ampton, in the year 1146, brought a convent of Cilter- tian monks, out of the abbey of Wardon, or Sartis, in Bedfordfiiiie ; and erected a monaftery for them in this place, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. At the time of the diflblution, here was an abbot, twelve monks, and twenty-two fervants, who were endowed with an yearly income of one hundred and forty-one pounds three {hil- lings and eight-pence. Dornford, a village upon the river Nen, north-weft of Yaxley, was the city of Durobrivae, mentioned by An- toninus. Here are many remains of a city, and a Roman portway, leading directly to Hum.ingt.on, which, near Stilton, appears v/ith a very high bank, and in an old Saxon ch. rter is called Ermin Street. At Stilton it runs through the middle of a fquare fort, defended by a wall on the north, and on the fouth by ramparts or earth, near which feveral ftone coffins have been dug up. Some are of opinion, that the city Durobrivae flood upon both fides the river Nen ; and that the little village Cafter, upon the other fide the river, was part of this city ; a conjecture which ancient hiftory feems to juftify. A great number of Roman coil have at different times been dug up at this place. This county is part of that diftrict anciently inhabited by the Iceni, who extended their dominion likewife over the counties of Suffolk, Norfolk, and Cambridgefhire. Under the Saxons, however, Huntingtonfhire was fepa- rated from that tract of country formerly pofleffed by the Iceni, and became part of the kingdom of Mercia. Huntington formerly abounded with ancient families of great property, but they are fo reduced, that few fir- names can be traced higher than the time of king Henry VIII. Various conjectures have been made to account for the caufe of fuch a decay, but all are trifling, and the greateft part abfurd. Many eminent men have been produced here; among others, John Dryden, the poet; and Sir Oliver Cromwell, elder brother to Oliver, the ufurper's father, whofe legal attachment to the crown was fuch, that when under fequeftration, he would not accept any favour, if he was to obtain it through the in- tereft of his rebellious nephew. There are no plants known in Huntingtonfhire that are not alfo found in Cambridgefhire ; fo that it will be needlefs to repeat what has been already obferved of that county. Members of Parliament for Huntmgtonfhire. This county fendi four members to parliament ; two knights of the fhire for the county, and two burgeffes for the town of Huntington. Zzzz NORTH- * C 3^ J NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. THIS county, which is fituated in the very centre of the kingdom, was, at the time of the Con- queror's furvey, fomewhat larger than it is now ; be- caufe in Doomfday-book we meet with towns under the title of this comity, which are in the fouth part of Rut- iandfhire. It is bounded on the fouth by Buckinghamfhire, on the weft by Warwickfhire and Oxfordfhire ; and as it runs in a narrow tract towards the north-eaft, in the form of a boot, it therefore borders upon more counties than any other in England ; for on the north it is bounded by Leicefterfhire, Rutlandftiire and Lincoln- ftiire, from which it is parted by the rivers Welland and Little Avon ; and on the eaft by Bedfordfhire, Hunting- tonfhire and Cambridgefhire. Some make it fifty-five miles from fouth-weft to north-eaft, twenty-fix in the broadeft part from eaft to Weft, and one hundred and twenty-five in compafs. Others reckon it forty-five where longeft, and twenty where broadeft, and about one hundred and twenty in circumference, containing five hundred and fifty thou- fand acres. Mr. Templeman computes the length at fifty-one, the breadth at twenty-one, and the fquare miles at fix hundred and eighty-three. In this area it is faid to contain three hundred and thirty parifhes, in- cluding one city, and eleven market towns, twenty-five thoufand houfes, and one hundred and fifty thoufand inhabitants. RIVERS. It is well watered with frefli rivulets and rills, befides tfre' five greater rivers, the Nen, Welland, Oufe, Learn, and Charwell ; the two laftof which and the Nen fpring out of one hill near Catefby and Helliden, in the hundred of Faufley, from whence the Charwell runs to the fouth and the Learn to the weft, which, as it haftens towards the Severn, is received by the Avon ; and the Nen to- wards the eaft. The Nen, which is the moft confider- able of thefe rivers, crones the country from Peterbo- rough, where it is wideft, to Daventry. The Welland, which runs, as has been faid, on the north border of the county, rifes in the hundred of Rothwell, and is navi- gable to Stamford in Lincolnftiire; and from thence, by the help of locks, to Spalding. The Oufe, which is ene of the principal rivers of this kingdom, rifes near Brackley, from the fpring called Oufewell, in the hun- dted of Sutton, but runs at fome diftance from this county till it comes near Stony-Stratford, where itpafl'es near the hundred of Cleley, and a little lower receives the river Tove, which having watered Towcefter, runs, after a winding courfe of many miles, into the Oufe near Cofgrove. The Little Avon rifes in the fame hundred as the Welland ; and falling weftward with a fmall ftream, leaves this county near Lilburn, and paffes into "Warwickfhire ; as does alfo the Leam, which, with the Charwell, makes up the weft border, dividing it from Oxfordfhire. The Leam rifes from a fpring at Helliden, called the Little Down ; haftens by Catefby and Staver- ton into Warwickfhire, where it gives name to the two Leamingtons, and then lofes both its water and name in the Oufe. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of North- amptonftiire. The only rivers navigable in this county, are the Nen and the Welland. The Nen is navigable to Allerton Mills, about fix miles above Peterborough : it might, however, beeafily made navigable to Northampton, and confequently prove of the greateft advantage to this county. The river Welland is, as we have already ob* ferved, navigable to Spalding in Lincolnshire; but as this river is a boundary between the counties of North- ampton and Lincoln, and the principal places fituated on its banks are in the latter county, we fhall be more particular in defcribing the navigation of the Welland in our account of Lincolnftiire. AIR and SOIL. The air of this county is fo exceeding pleafant and wholefome, by reafon of its diftance from the fea, and all manner of.»arfhes, (excepting that fmall tract called the Fen-land about Peterborough) that the nobility and gentry have more feats and parks here than there are in any other county in England of equal bignefs, there being fcarce a village in it but has one or more. And though the low grounds in the above-mentioned tract, towards Lincolnshire and Cambridgefhire, are often over- flowed by great falls of water from the uplands in the rainy feafon, yet the inhabitants never fuffer it to ftay long, even in the winter, fo as to prejudice the air, of which the healthfulnefs of the people is a plain proof. Its foil is very fruitful, both in tillage and pafturao-e- but it is not well flocked with wood, nor, by reafon of its diftance from the fea, can it be fupplied with coal as duly as other counties, fo that winter fuel here is ex- tremely dear. It abounds with fheep and other cattle, wool, pigeons, and falt-petre; and it has been obferved that there is lefs wafte ground in this than in any other county of England, there being but one barren heath in it, and that near Whittering. It is a plain, level country, and fo populous, that from fome places may be feen no lefs than thirty fteeples at one view. Its manufactures are ferges, tammies, fhalloons, boots and fhoes. Remarks on the Husbandry of Northamptonftiire. The country between Kimbolton and Thrapftone is extremely pleafant, and more fcattered with villages and churches than any we ever faw ; from one level plain, which rifes above the furrounding country, we counted with eafe twelve fteeples. It Jikewife continues very pleafant and well diverfified to Oundle. About Ay- church, between Thryfton and the latter named place, the foil is a ftrong clay. The farms are fmall in rent, in general from twenty to fixty pounds ; land lets at five fhillings an acre. Their courfe of crops, 1 Fallow 2 Wheat or barley 3 Beans For wheat they plough four times, fow two bufhels- of feed, and get at a medium three quarters. They plough three times for barley, fow four bufhcls, and reap four quarters. They fow fcarce any oats, and no turnips. For beans they plough but once, fow four bufhels broad-caft ; never hoe, but the flovenly practice of feeding off the weeds with fheep yet continues ; three quarters they reckon the medium produce. They ma- nure only for wheat and barley, fpread it on the fallows the end of July or beginning of Auguft, and plough it in. They ufe three horfes at length, and do an acre a day. The particulars of a farm we gained, were, 180 Acres, all arable £.50 Rent 10 Horfes 30 Cow$ 200 Sheep 3 Servants 2 Labourers, h A- NORTHAMP TONSHIRE. 3 6 3 LABOUR. In harveft, thirty to thirty-fix fliillings a month, and board. In hay-time, one milling a day, and board. In winter, eight-pence a day, and fmall beer, and a mels of milk, in the morning. Reaping wheat, four (hillings and fix-pence, and five {hillings. Mowing barley, oats and beans, one {hilling; grafs, one {hilling and four-pence, Th refliing wheat, one milling and four-pence per quarter. ■ fpring corn, one {hilling. This whole track of country, quite to Stamford, is chiefly open and uninclofed, except in fmall parcels around the villages, which however give a pleafant va- riety to it in travelling ; but it is melancholy to think, that in an age wherein the benefits of inclofing are fo well known and underftood, fuch vaft tracks fiiould re- main in fuch a comparatively unprofitable ftate. City, Market Towns, t&h We entered this county near Peterborough, feventy- fix miles diftant from London, reckoned the lead city, as its fee is the pooreft bifiioprick in England. It frauds Upon the river Nen, over which it has a bridge, and has its name from a monaftery begun there by Peada, and finiflied by Wulpher, two kings of the Mercians, and dedicated to St. Peter. The Danes deftroyed both the monaftery and monks together, fo that it lay deftitute for above an hundred years. Then Ethelwald, bifhop of Winchefter, rebuilt it, and reftored the monks, who lived very fumptuoufly with a mitred abbot at the head of them, till the diflblution by king Henry VIII. who converted the abbey into a bilhop's fee, giving this county and Rutlandfhire for its diocefe, which contains two hundred and ninety-three parifhes, whereof ninety- one are impropriate, and was originally in the diocefe of Lincoln. The cathedral is a moft noble Gothic fabric, but was much more fo before the civil wars, when it was defaced, and deprived of many confiderable orna- ments. It is faid to be above a thouland years old, though it feems to be more modern. It is above four hundred and feventy-nine feet long, two hundred and three broad in the tranfept from north to fouth, and the breadth of the nave and fide-ayles is ninety-one. The weft front, which is one hundred and fifty fix feet in breadth, is the moft (lately of any in England, being fupported by three of the talleft arches that are to be feen, and columns curioufly adorned. The windows of thecloifters are finely ftained with fcripture-hiftory, that of its founder, and the fucceffion of its abbots. Among other noted monuments in it, are thofe of queen Catha- rine, who was divorced from Henry VIII. and of Mary Queen of Scots, though the body of the latter was, as it is faid by fome, but denied by others, removed to Weftminfter Abbey by her fon, king James I. And here is alfo the figure of one Scarlet, the fexton, who died atat. 95, after having, as his epitaph declares, bu- ried both thofe queens, and all the lvnife-keepers of the town twice oyer. The city is governed by a mayor, recorder, and aldermen, purfuant to a charter granted it, together with the privilege of fending members to par- liament by king Henry VIII. All the city officers are elected by the dean and chapter, confifting of fix preben- daries, who are the lords of the manor ; and the juftices of the peace are nominated by the Cuftos Rotulorum. It gives title of earl, as well as Monmouth, to the family of the Mordaunts. The river Nen, whofe ancient name is Aufona or Avon, according to Camden, is na- vigable to it by barges, in which they import coal, corn, &c. and exporr to the amount of fix thoufand quarters of malt in fome years, befides many other goods, but efpecially of the woollen manufacture, either of cloth or (lockings, in which the poor are constantly employed. This river was made navigable in purfuance of an act of parliament in the twelfth of queen Anne. The ftreets are fair, and well built; and befides its ca- thedral, here is one parifii-church, and a handfome market-houie, over which the affizes and feffions are kept. The air here indeed is not very wholelbme, but the water frefh and good, the higheft fpring-tide never coming within five miles of the town ; and moreover, they have plenty of excellent water in their wells. Be- fides the dean and chapter, who are anecclefiaftical cor- poration diftindt from the bifhop, here are eight petty- canons, four (Indents in divinity, one epiftler, one gof- peller, a fub-dean, fub-treafurer and chanter, eight chorifters, and as many finging-mcn, two chancellor.-, a mafter, ufiier, and twenty lcholars at a grammar-fchool j befides a fteward, organift, and other inferior officers* There are two charity-fchools, one founded and en- dowed by Mr. Thomas Deacon of this city, for twenty boys, who, after being taught to read and write, are put out apprentices ; and another for teaching forty poor children to fpin and read, the charge of whofe education: is chiefly defrayed by their own labour. The author of the Addenda to Mr. Camden tells us, that juft before the Danes deftroyed the monaftery here, as above mentioned, the abbot of Croyland and his monks fled hither for protection, but were overtaken and murdered in a back court of the monaftery, called the Monk's Church-yard, becaufe they were all buried there ; and that a tomb-ftone with their effigies was erected over their common grave, which is to be feen at this day. About the year 1108, Benedict, abbot of Peterbo- rough, founded, near the gate of the abbey, an hofpital, dedicated to St. Thomas a Becket. A fpittel, or hofpital for leprous perfons, dependent on the abbey, is found upon record as early as the time of king Stephen. Peterborough fends two citizens to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the tenth of July, and the fecond of October, for horfes, and other cattle, &c. Corclyke, near Peterborough, is an ancient trench cut by the Romans, for draining the fens, and facilitating commerce in thofe parts, its dimenfions being fufficient to render it navigable. Bricclefworth, Bredon, Wermundfey, Repengas, and Wockingas, were all fo many daughter abbies, that had their rife from the abbey of Peterborough, and were cells to it, or dependent upon it, about the year 690, and are fuppofed to have been fituated near Peterborough, but this is not certainly known : they were, however, ali deftroyed by the Danes in 870, and never reftored. At Peakkirk, fouth-weft of Peterborough, St. Pega, in the year 714, fettled herfelf in a cell, which was afterwards improyed into a monaftery, dedicated to the Trinity, and endowed by Edmund Atheling. It fufFered greatly from the Danes in 870, and was totally deftroyed in 1 01 3. At Oxney, near Peterborough, there was a priory of Benedictine monks, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, before the time of Edward I. It was a cell to the abbey of Peterborough. Caftor, about three miles from Peterborough, is fup- pofed to have been part of the ancient city cailed by the Romans Durobrivae, and by the Saxons Dormancefter : it extended anciently on both fides to the river Nen, though the remains of it, now called Caftar, are on the north fide only of the river. Checquered pavements, Roman copper coins, urns, bricks, and tiles, have been found here: and on a hill where the church now (lands, there was anciently a caftle, the feat of the Roman go- vernor. Having furveyed every thing curious in Peterborough, and its neighbourhood, we palled along the Roman road, called, from its breadth, Eorty-foot-way. It begins at Peterborough, and panes by Burleigh pask-wall into Stamford in Lincolnfhire. Burleigh Houfe is a very ancient building, in the form of a quadrangle, very Ipacious, furrou tiding a la? ge court* and in the old fiile of building very handfomely orna- mented with turrets, carving in fione, &c. &c. Many of the rooms are but fmall, and therefore we have mi- nuted but few of them diftinclly ; nor have we nwked all NORTHAMP TONS H I R E. all the paintings as they hang in each room, as it would he difficult to diftinguifh them by peculiar phrafes. Some are little more than clofets. The Billiard-room, newly fitted up, thirty-three by twenty-one, the chimney-piece of white marble polifhed, and a rounding of Siena ; it is light and pretty. The Chapel, not finifhed ; thirty-three by thirty-four; befides the Anti-room, whieh is ornamented with very elegant carved wainfeot. The Bow-window-room, forty-five by thirty-three, painted by Le Guere, who, with Verrio, painted all the ceilings, &c. in the houfe. Out of this you enter into another, thirty by twenty-four, with filver fconces around it, and furniture of the hearth the fame. Next is a bed-chamber, rich work on a black fattin, and lined with yellow filk ; the fringe of the counterpane, and ornaments at the head of the bed, are in a pretty tafte. In the clofet are Three pieces by Gieufeppe Chierera. Adoration of the Shepherds, by Baffin ; the colouring good. Two landfcapes, by Gafpar Pouffin ; one of them excellent. In the fmall clofet adjoining are two pieces by Smith, of Derby ; boys blowing bladders, and girls dreffing a cat ; admirable : the diffufion of light ftrongly exprefled, and very ftriking. In the Dreffing-room, eighteen by twenty-feven, Two flower-pieces, by Baptift, very fine. Henrietta, king Charles's queen, by Vandyke ; the drapery very well done. Two fruit-pieces ; Michael Angelo ; very fine. A bunch of grapes, byMifs Grey, in worfted ; inimi- table. Honey-fuckles, by ditto ; very pretty. Landscape, a water-fall, by Harding ; the water well done. Here arelikewife a Chinefe pagoda in ivory and mother of pearl, very pretty ; and fome prodigious fine china jars. Nor fhould we forget to remark the India cabinets in thefe apartments, and the japan card tables, both which, with a great variety of furniture, are vaftly elegant. In the following rooms are, Fruit and flowers, by M. Angelo ; fine. Mars and Venus ; Jordans. Pan, By Carlo Marratt. Venus and Cupid ; N. Pouffin; fine, but the fky- blue a ftrange one indeed. Four pictures, by Carlo Marratt, but not in his beft manner. Defcent of the Holy Ghoff, by Le Brun ; heads amazingly fine. Virgin and child, Correggio ; the colouring, &c. of this picture does not equal the idea one has formed of this great mafter's genius. Wifemen's offerings ; Carlo Dolci. The finifhing of this picture is very fine ; the airs of the heads noble, the attitude of the child excellent, and the colours and clear obfeure of great merit. Martyrdom of St. Catharine, by Julio Romano; a piece containing numerous figures, and is very fine. Virgin and Child, by Carlo Cignani ; very noble. A fleeping Chrift, by Pouffin ; moft exquifite. Virgin's head ; a fketch by Raphael. Jofeph's head ; a ditto by ditto. The name of Ra- phael is great ; but thefe fketches will not anfwer any one's idea who has feen thefe alone of this mafter. Virgin and Child ; Schiedone; very fine. Ditto, Albano; excellent. St. Euftachius s vifion, by Albert Durer ; a prodigious expreffion of the minute fort. Virgin and Child ; Correggio ; the attitude fine. Chrift bleffing the elements, by Carlo Dolci. To defire the reader to make a paufe when he comes to this picture, would furely be needlefs ; for all, from the connoifieur to the clown, muft be ftruck with aftonifh- ment at the firft entering the room : fure never piece was finifhed in fo perfect a manner, and at the fame time the great expreffion fo little damaged by it : in fhort, the expreffion of the foul is as great as the finifljing of the mouth ; and the whole piece moft ■ fuperlativeiy ex- cellent. The divine refignation — attention to the mo- ment — religious complacency of foul — all is moft ex- quifite : there is not only a picturefquc beauty in this piece, but an ideal one, and in a noble ftile ; for the fentimenrs in the countenance of our Saviour are rather thofe of an imaginary cxiftence, fomething fuperior to humanity, than a reprefentation of what is ever beheld. The finifhing and colouring down to the bread and nap- kin, are inimitable ; the general glow and brilliancy exquifite; the bold relief of the right hand beyond ex- preffion; the hollownefs of the opened mouth furpriz- ingly touched. In a word, every part of this amazing work proves that Carlo Dolci deferves to be ranked among the firft of painters. . Adoration of the Shepherds by ditto, amazingly fine. Chrift in the garden ; Baflan. The ftrong reflection of the light very ftriking, but the ftile of painting coarfe, and almoft like tapeftry. Martyrdom of St. Catharine, by Parmegiano, after Correggio ; moft fweetly elegant. Virgin and Chrift's body, Hani. Carrache ; very fine. Holy family ; Andrea del Sarto ; fine. The old fe- male head excellent. Head ; a fketch by Correggio ; difagreeable. Morning and Evening, two landfcapes, by Tempefia> fine. Venus and Adonis ; Gieufeppa Chierera : Venus's flefh is well painted; clear, but natural. The Dreffing-room hung with green cut velvet, with elegant gilt papie machee borders, is very handfomcly fitted up : the chimney-piece a fmall bas relief let into the centre, with a border around the whole of Siena marble ; very elegant. Chrift's head ; Carlo Marratt ; very fine. Adoration of the Shepherds; Ferara. This picture is a good one, but the principal action ftrangely abfurd : the Virgin holds the child in her lap, as a crier would a parcel of oranges. Virgin fupporting the dead body of Chrift ; Vandyke: a fmall, but aftonifhing picture. The body is painted in the moft admirable ftile; the expreffion exact, but great; the colouring exquifite; the group and s;eneral effect furpiizingly fine. In a word, this piece is truly capital, and worthy of infinitely greater encomiums than in my power to give. Virgin, by Ferrato ; fine. Virgin, Chrift, and St. John. Chrift appearing to Mary Magdalen. Holy Family. Thefe four by Carlo Marratt, and very fine. Virgin, copied by Patours ; attitude, colours, and turn of the flioulders, good. The offering the tribute-money, in two colours, by Vandyke. The group, airs of trie heads, and attitudes, admirably fine. Elifha ; Carlo Dolci ; prodigious fine. The colour- ing, expreffion, and general effect, great. Affumption, Hanibal Carrache. Virgin at our Saviour's tomb ; Carlo Marratt, after Raphael ; very fine. Virgin and Child ; Correggio ; a fine, but an unpleaf- ing picture ; the faces very ugly. Flight into Egypt ; Carlo Dolci. TRe* thought, manner, colours, and expreffion, very beautiful. A Satire on the Capuchines; David Teniers ; very great expreffion. Adoration of the Shepherds, and Offering of the Wife Men ; two pieces by Polenburgh ; colouring, finifhing, and the defign of the heads, very fine. St. John, by Parmegiano ; very fine. Centaur and Dejanira ; Jordanus ; finely expreffive. The female flefh foft and beautiful, and well contralted with the roughnefs of the Centaur. St. Sebaftian and St. Lucia, by Carlo Dolci; fine. A cat and dead birds, and pigeons in a bafket, by Dav. Conich ; extremely v Venus rifing from the iea, by Titian ; very capital. Moft of the pictures we have feen of this mafter are either in bad prcfervation, or the colouring goneoft'and hard. NORTHAMP TONSHIRE. hard. XVe look in vain for that glowing brilliancy of pencil, of which we read fo much in many works on painting : but in this exquifite piece, the colours are admiiable; nothing can be more beautiful than the ex- preffion of the n&ked ; the roundnefs and elaftic foftnefs of the breafts are inimitable ; the beauty of the face very great, and moft elegantly painted ; her attitude very pleafing. In a word, this picture is viewed with un- common pleafure. Albano. Amphytrite ; fine. Roleant Savary, landfcape ; very fine. It is painted in the ftile of Sal va tor Rofa. In the bluedamafk drawing-room are feveral exquifite pieces ; and the glaffes, frames, &c. very elegant. Carlo Marratt. Our Saviour and the Samaritan Woman ; fine. Celefti. Adam and Eve lamenting over the dead body of Abel ; very fine. Guido. The Periian Sybil; prodigioufly fine; the colouring and exprellion wonderfully great. Jordanus. Ifaac blelfing Jacob ; amazingly fine. The dying expreffion in Ifaac's face, and that of the whole piece, very capital. Carlo Marratt. Virgin, with the dead body of Chrift ; exquifitely fine. Salutation. The colouring very fine ; but the clear obfcure appears very faulty. Jordanus. Tobit ; exquifite. Carlo Marratt. Magdalen ; inimitable. Titian. Virgin and Child ; the colouring a good deal gone off". Girendo de la Nocte. The reconciliation of St. Peter and St. Paul ; the heads and hands very fine. Ludovico Carrache. Virgin, Chrift, and John ; extremely fine. Carlo Marratt. Magdalen. In another drawing-room, thirty by twenty-feven, is a moft noble chimney-glafs in one plate, feven feet by four ; it is hung with crimfon daniafk : here are feveral very fine pictures. Jordanus. Jupiter and Europa. Marcus Curtius. Fortune. Death of Seneca. Thefe four pieces are all fine ; but the laft moft ini- mitable. The expreflion in the whole of Seneca's figure is wonderfully great ; nothing can be truer than the reprefentation ©f the mufcles, and the pleats and folds of the aged body. Guerchino. Chrift, the Virgin, and St. John ; very fine. The dining-room is an excellent one, forty by tv. enty- five, richly fitted up ; the recefs is within fome very elegantly carved and gilt pillars. Here arc, by Ferrara. Paflage of the Children of Ilrael over the Red Sea ; fine. Morellio. Diogenes dafhing his cup to the ground ; prodigioufly fine attitude and expreflion : it is life itfelf. Jordanus. The beheading St. John ; fine. Genaria. Armida enchanting the fword of Rinaldo ; extremely pleafing. Jordanus. Diana and Acteon ; the figure of Diana prodigioufly fine ; the naked backs done inimitably ; the clear obfcure excellent, and the general effect very ftriking. A head in Mofaic ; the only piece in that noble in- vention that we remember having feen : at a fmall diftance the colours are natural and fine ; but near, the effect is by no means good. This collection, upon the whole, will afford any fpectator the greateft entertainment; for here are pictures that muft kindle raptures in thofe who remark nature alone ; and others fufficient to afford the moft noble enjoyment to the moft learned eye. The pieces are extremely numerous ; very few of them indifferent, and many exquifitely fine. The collection of the works of Jordanus is moft capital ; they are in great numbers, and of amazing expreffion. The death of Seneca is one of the fineft pieces of this mafter that is any where to be feen. Carlo Dolci is likewife feen here in fur- 39 prizing perfection ; his pieces in this collection are all good, and fome of them fuperlatively fo ; particularly our Saviour blefling the elements. The two hiftoiic pieces by Vandyke are particularly valuable, as that, painter did fo few of them : the dead Chrift is of moft capital merit. Of Carlo Marratt we find many very fine pieces, but not v.non the whole equal to thofe wc fee at Houghton. Titian is exhibited in the Venus rifing from, the fea, to very great advantage, confidering how few of his capital pictures are to be found in Eng- land. Guido's Sybil is worthy of the higheft admira- tion ; and Pouflin appears to advantage in feveral pieces. In a word, many of the greateft painters are here to be ftudied with profit and delight, and their works here to be feen the lafting admiration of every fpectator. Among fuch a number of exquifite pictures, it is difficult to draw comparifons ; but we believe the fpectator will be beft pleafed with Chrift blefling the elements, by Carlo Dolci; the dead Chrift, by Vandyke; and Seneca, by Jordanus. Near this feat, and on the fouth fide of the bridge leading to Stamford, but in this county, ftood an an- cient free chapel or hofpital, dedicated to St. John and St. Thomas the martyr; conlifting of a mafter and brethren, founded about the end of king Henry 11. 's reign, by Richard de Hurnet, Betram de Verdun Sy- word, or Brandon de Foflato. At Barnack in this county, and near Burleigh, there was an ancient college ; of which there is no particular account. Rockingham, the next place we vifited, is fituated on the river Willand, at the diftance of eighty-three miles from London ; and has a charity-fchbol for 12 boys. Upon a hill ftands the foreft called Rockingham foreft, reckoned one of the largeft and richeft in the kingdom^ in which William the Conqueror buiit a caftle ; this wood, in therime of the ancientBritons Ipread itfelf almoft from the Willand to theNen ; and was noted formerly for iron works, great quantity of flags, that is, the refufe of the iron ore, being met with in the adjacent fields. Its extent, according to a furvey in 1641, was near four- teen miles in length, from the weft-end of Middleton- Woods to the town of Wansford, and five miles in breadth, from Brigftock to the Willand ; but it is now divided into fmall parcels, by the interpofition of fields and towns, and feparated into three bailiwicks. In fe- veral of its woods a great quantity of charcoal is made of the tops of trees, of which many waggon-loads are fent yearly to Peterborough. Here is a fpacious plain in this foreft called Rockinghamfhire, which is a com- mon to the four towns of Cottihgham, Rockingham, Corby, and G etton. King William Rufus called the council here of the great men of the kingdom. King John's fon, Richard earl of Cornwall, was conftituted governor of the caftle, and warden of the foreft ; in which he was fucceeded by his fon, Edmund earl of Cornwall, who had likewife the manor of the town, which, after his death, was afligned to his relict, Mar- garet, as part of her dower, by king Edv/ard 1. King Edward II. gave this town and manor to his fon John, when he was created earl of Cornwall in parliament ; from which time it went along with the faid ea Uo and ftill continues fo, unlefs it was with the caftle alienated to Sir Lewis Watfon, the earl of Rocking- ham's anceftor. This town has a weekly market on Thurfday, and an annual fair on the twenty-fifth of September, for horfes, cows, fheep, hogs, pewter, black hats, and cloths. At Dean, about three miles from Rockingham, there was an ancient priory before the Conqueft, which was a cell to the abbey of Weftminfter, and was fupprefled foon after the Conqueft ; and at Cotes, about the fame diftance from this town, mention is made of a houfe for leprous perfons. Weldon is a fmall market-town, fituated in the foreft of Rockingham, at the diftance of eighty-three miles from London, in which there is nrothine; defervirig par- ticular notice. The market-houfe is a handfome build- ing, with a f.-ffions-chamber over it, buiit, by the en- 5 A couragemerit N O R T H A M P T O N S H I R E, couragement of the lord Hatton, of ftone, from fome excellent quarries near it. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and four annual f/irs, viz. the nineteenth of February, the twenty- firft of May, the twentieth of Auguft, and the feventeenth of September^ for brafs, pewter, hats, and linen and woollen cloth. Oundle is a corruption of Avondale, or the River- dale, the original name of this town. It is a clean, uniform, well-built town, at the diftance of fixty-five milesfrom London, and almoft furrounded by the river Nen, over which it has two handfome ftone bridges ; oneofthefe, called the North Bridge, is remarkable for the number of its arches, and a fine caufeway leading to it. The church is extremely neat : here is a free-fchool, aad an alms-houfe, both founded by SirWilliam Laxton, lord mayor of London, and fupported by the Grocers Company of that city. Here is a charity-fchool for thirty boys, and another foi twelve girls. Here is like- wife another alms-houfe, built by one Nicholas La- tham. There is a well in this town, in which it is faid there is frequently heard a noife like the beat of a drum, which the lower clafs of people in the neighbourhood regard as a prefage of fome great calamity, though it may eafily, be accounted for, from the water's bisffing through fome' aqueduct opening into the well. Here was a monaftery before the year 711, generally thought to have been founded by Wilfrid, archbifhop of York : it afterwards became a cell to the abbey of Peter- borough. In the church-yard of this place there was an alms-houfe, founded by Robert Viate, in 1485. Oundel has a weekly market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, viz. the twenty-fifth of February, Whit- fun-Monday, and the twenty-firft of Auguft, for horfes, iheep, and cows. Fotheringhay Caftle, near this town, is a very an- cient building, where king Richard III. was born, and Mary Queen of Scots beheaded. There was formerly a nunnery here, the nuns of which were tranflated to De la Pre, near Northampton. King Henry IV. in 15 11, began in this town a noble college, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and All Saints, for a mafter, twelve chap- lains or fellows, eight clerks, and thirteen chorifters. At the diffolution, it was endowed with lands to the yearly value of four hundred and ninety-nine pounds fifteen fhillings and nine-pence. At a place called Wolthrop, not far from Oundle, there appears to have been a fmall Benedictine nunnery; dedicated to St. Mary, as early as the reign of king Henry I. There was a priory of Black canons at Finfhead, near this town, founded by Richard Engain, about the beginning of the reign of king John, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Upon the diffolution of religious houfes, it was valued at fifty-fix pounds ten fhillings and eleven-pence per annum. At Armefton, not far diftant from this town, Ralph de Trableville, and Alice his wife, founded an hofpital, with a chapel, before the year 1231, dedicated to St. John the Baptift, And at Wittering, near this place, there was a priory in the year 1308. At Cotterftock, on the north fide of Oundle, there is a church dedicated to St. Andrew, where John Gif- ford, canon of York, about the year 1336, founded a college or large chauntry, confiftingof a provoft, twelve chaplains, and two clerks. Thrapfton is a corruption of the original name Thorp- fion. It is fituated in a pleafant valley, upon the river Nen, over which it has a fine ftone bridge, at the diftance of fixty-five miles from London. The water, air, and foil of this place, are fo remarkably healthy, that there could fcarce be found a more eligible retreat for thofe who chufe a country life. The river Nen having been made navigable to this town by act of par- liament, boats came up to it for the firft time in No- vember 1727. This town has a weekly market on Tuefday, and three annual fairs, viz. firft Tuefday in May, for fheep, fneep, horned cattle, and merchandize ; St. James's dayj and the fifth of Auguft, for pedlary, ihoes, &c. North-weft cf Thrapfton, is Drayton-Houfe, a feat belonging to the earl of Peterborough. Higham-Ferrers, or Ferris, fignifies the High Houfe of Ferrers, and is a name derived from a caftle upon a rifing ground here, anciently in polleffion cf the family of Ferrers, the ruins of which are ftill vifible. It Hands on the eaft fide of the Nen, at the diftance of fifty-nine miles from London. In the reign of Philip and Mary, it was made a borough, the corporation whereof confifts of a mayor, fteward, recorder, feven aldermen, thirteen capital burgeflcs and commonalty. It is a fmall, but clean, healthy, and pleafant town ; and is a roval manor, as part of the dutchy of Lancafter. Here is a handfome church, with a lofty fpire, a free-fchoo!, and an alms- houfe for twelve men and one woman. Henry Chichele, archbifhop of Canterbury, a native of this town, in the laft year of the reign of Henry V. founded a college for eight f«cular chaplains or canons, four clerks, and fix chorifters. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, St, Thomas of Canterbury, and St. Edward the Confeflbr. Its revenues were valued, upon the diflblution, at onei hundred and fifty-fix pounds two fhillings and feven- pence per anmun. He likewife founded an hofpital for the poor. This town fends one member to parliament, has a' weekly market on Saturday, and eight annua! fairs, viz. Tuefday before the fifth of February, the feventh of March, the third of May, the twenty-eighth of June, and Thurfday before the fifth of Auguft, for horfes and horned cattle ; the tenth of October, for horfes, horned cattle, fheep, and hogs ; St. Catharine, and the feven- teenth of December, for cattle of all forts. At Artleborough, near this town, on the other fide the river Nen, there is a church, in which John Pyel, in the time of Edward III. began, and after his deceafe, his executrix, in the time of Richard II. perfected a college for fix fecular canons or prebendaries, and four clerks. This codegiate church was endowed at the diflblution with yearly revenues to the amount ofTeventy pounds iixteen fhillings and ten-pence. At Mill-cotton, not far from Higham-Ferrers, there are the remains of a Roman encampment ; and in the neighbouring fields Roman cpins and urns have been dug up. Wellingborough, the next town we entered, is thought to have derived its name from the great number of wells and fprings in and near it. This town was deftroyed by the Danes, but it was afterwards re-eftablifhed, and made a market-town by king John, at the interceffion of the monks of Crowland, who were then in poffeffion of the manor. It afterwards fufFered greatly by a dread- ful fire, in July 1 738, which, in the fpace of fix hours, confumed upwards of eight hundred houfes. It has fince been rebuilt with great elegance, of a kind of red ftone, and their foundation is chiefly on a rock of the like ftone. It is at prefent a large, populous, trading town ; has a handfome church, and a charity-fchool for forty children, who are maintained, cloathed, and taught to read and write. It ftands at the diftance of fixty-five miles from London, on the fouth fide of a hill, about a quarter of a mile from the river Nen : .the country round it yields great quantities of corn ; its chief trade there- fore lies in this article : it likewife has a confiderable manufacture of lace, which, it is faid, one week with another, returns fifty pounds each week. This town is celebrated for medicinal waters : Queen Mary, wife to king Charles I. is faid to have continued many weeks here, by the advice of her phyficians, to drink them. There is a weekly market held here on Wednefday, and three annual fairs, viz. Eafter- Wednefday, for horfes and hogs ; Whitfun-Wednefday, and the twenty- ninth of October, for horfes, horned cattle, fheep, &c. and cheefe. At Chefter, near this town, there are the traces of a Roman camp, of near twenty acres extent, inclofed by a ftrong ftone wall. In the area of this camp have been found Roman pavements, coins, bricks, and other re- mains of antiquity. Kettering NORTH A MP TONSHiR.fi. 367 Kettering is a handfome, populous town, with a feflians-houfe for the county, a i'mall hofpital, and a charity-fchool for twenty girls, who arc employed in fpinning jerfeys. Near two thoufand hands are laid to be employed here in the manufacture of fhalloons, tammies, and ferges. The woollen manufactory was introduced here in the laft century, by one Mr. Jordan. This town is fituated upon a fmall river, which runs into the Nen, at the diftance of feventy-two miles from London. The trade of this place is now very con- flict-able. Here is a weekly market on Friday, and three annual fairs, viz. Thurfday before St. Thouias's day, Thurfday before Eafter, and Tuefday before Old Michaelmas-day, for cattle of all forts, and pedlary wares. Among the many noble feats in this county, is the magnificent houfe 'at Broughton, built by the firft duke of Montague, after the model of the palace of Verfailles. It has treble wings which project and expand, forming three courts, which increafe in dimenfions as the fpec- ' r approaches the front of the houfe, which terminates the profpect. The hall is a noble, fpacious, and ele- it room; on the ceiling is reprefented a convocation vi the gods, inimitably well painted. The ceilings are in general well- executed, as are the flair-cafes and gal- leries. Here are a great number of portraits, and other curious pictures, performed in a malte;ly manner. The gardens, containing ninety acres of ground, are beautifully laid out, and moft agreeably diverfified with ftatues, flower-pots, urns of marble and metal, many very lsrge bafons, with a variety of fountains, refervoirs, fiih-ponds and canals, aviaries, wilderneffes, and ter races, a remarkable fine cafcade, and a river which runs throughout the garden. The park is encompafled with a brick wall, and finely planted with trees. In the neighbourhood of Broughton there is a petrify- ing well, from whence a fkull, perfectly petrified, was in the laft century brought to Sidney College in Cam- bridge, where it is dill prcferved. There is a remarkable echo at Oxendo:i, near Ket- tering, formed by the tower of a church, that v/ill repeat twelve or thirteen fyllabks very diftinctly. Rothwell, or Rowell, is fituated on the fide of a rocky hill, whence it is plentifully fupplied with fprings of pure water. It is a tolerable good town, at the diftance of fixty-nire miles from London. Here is a fine market- houfe, coofiftii : ot a iquaie building of afhler ftone, adorned with the arms of moft of the nobility and gentry of the county, carved under the cornifh on the outfide, the contrivance of Sir Lewis Trefham. Here was for- n. rly a fmall priory for three or four nuns, dedicated to St. John the Baptift, and valued, upon the fuppreffion, at five pounds nineteen fhiilings and eight-pence per annum. There is a weekly market held here on Monday, and a remarkable large annual fair, particularly for horfes : it begins on Trinity-Monday, and continues all the week ; the laft day is for leather only. At Dinglev, near Rothwell, there was a preeeptory belonging to St John of Jerufalem, which was endowed with lands, that, at the time of the diflolution, were valued at one hundred and eight pounds thirteen (hil lings and five-pence per annum. There was an abbey for Ciftertian monks atPipewell, near this town, founded by William de Boutevylein in the year 1 143, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary : its yearly revenues, on the fuppreffion, were rated at two hundred and eighty-fix pounds eleven fhiilings and eight-pence. At Weekly, a little to the north-eaft of Rothwell, there is an alms-houfe built and endowed by Sir Edward, whom king James I. created lord Montague of Boughton. Northampton was anciently called Hamton, as appears by the Saxon annals ; the prepofition North was added foon after the Conqueft, to diftinguifh it from South- ampton, which was alfo, before that time, known by the name of Hamton only. Northampton appears to have been but an obfeure place till after the Conqueft : it has, however, lent mem- bers to parliament ever fince the reign of Edward I. and as it is the county town, and fituated in the heart of the kingdom, feveral parliaments have been held here. In this town the barons began their rebellion againft king Henry III. who took it by aflault. Some discon- tented fcholars came hither from Oxford and Cambridge about the end of that reign, and with the king's leave profecuted their ftudies here academically for three years ; fo that there was the appearance of an univerfity in Northampton, till this fociety was fupprefl'ed by a fpecial prohibition, as injurious to both univerfities. This town has feveral old charters of incorporation, which were confirmed by king James I. It was once deftroyed by the Danes, and again, on the twentieth of September, 1675, laid in afhes by fire; but by contri- butions from all parts of the kingdom, was foon rebuilt, and is now efteemed one of the neateft towns in Eng- land. It is diftant fixty-fix miles from London, and is governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, four aldermen, twelve officers, peculiarly called Magiftrates, a recorder, town- clerk, and council, with fifty-eight burgefles, and five ferjeants. It was formerly encompalTed by a wall, two miles in circumference : there were feven churches within the walls, and two without ; of thefe four only remain ; the largeft of which, called Allhallows, ftands in the centre of the town, at the meeting of four fpa- cious ftreets : it has a ftately portico, fupported by eight lofty Ionic columns, with a ftatue of king Charles II. on the baluftrade. Here is a feffions and affize-houfe$ which isabeautiful building in theCorinthian ftile. The market-place, a regular and fpacious ftructure, is account- ed one of the fineft in Europe. On the wefLfide of the town are ftill to be feen the remains o' an old caftle. Here is a county goal, and three hofpitals, and an inn, called the George Inn, the building of which coft two thoufand pounds, which was given by John Dryder, Efq: towards the endowment of a charity-fchooi for thirty boys and ten girls. This town is very advan- tageoufly fituated, being a great thoroughfare both to the north and weft countries from London, which contribute greatly to its wealth and popularity ; but being eighty miles from the fea, prevents having any commerce by navigation ; nor can coals be brought hilher by water- carriage, and little wood growing upon the ifland, ren- ders firing very expenfive in this place ; here are two biidges over the Nen. The principal manufactures of Northampton arefhoes and ftockings, of which great quantities are exported. On a neighbouring down, called Pye-Legs, there are frequent horfe-races ; and in and about the town are great numbers of cherry-gardens. In 1460, a battle was fought here, wherein Henry VII. was taken prifo- ner by Nevif, earl of Warwick. Here were formerly feveral religious houfes. In the weft-part of the town William Peverill, natu- ral fon to William the Conqueror, before the year Iii2> built an abbey of Black canons, dedicated to St. James, which, upon the diflolution, was valued at one hundred and feventy-five pounds eight fhiilings and two-pence per annum \ and on the fouth-fide there was an hofpi- tal before the year 1240, dedicated to St. Leonard, for a mafter and leprous brethren. At the fuppreffion, it was rated at ten pounds per annum. In 1084, a priory, dedicated to St. Andrew, was re- paired, endowed, replenifhed with Cluniac monks, and made fubordinate to the foreign abbey of St. Mary de Caritate, by Simon Scinliz, the firft earl of Huntington, and Maud his wife. This houfe was madedenifon the fixth of Henry IV. and appeared at the diflolution to have been endowed with two hundred and fixty-three pounds feven fhiilings and a penny per annum. Here was an hof- pital for poor and infirm perfons, founded about the year 1 1 37, by Walter, archdeacon of Northampton, dedicated to St. John the Baptift, and rated, on the fup- preffion, at twenty-five pounds fix fhiilings and two- pence a year. Without the walls of this town there was an abbey de la Pre, for Cluniac nuns, founded in the time of king Stephen, by Simon Scinliz, fecond earl of Northampton, and dedicated to St. Mary. At the time of the fup- preffion, here were ten nuns, who were endowed with one 568 NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. one hundred and nineteen pounds nine /hillings and (even-pence per annum. The Friars Minors, in 1224, hired an habitation m the parifh of St. Giles, but fixed afterwards northward of the market-place., upon ground given them by the town. At the diflblmtion, this houfe was valued at fix pounds thirteen millings and four-pence per annum. In the Horfe-market there was a priory of Friars Preach- ers before the year 1240, to which John Dabyngton was either a founder, or a cor.'fiderable benefactor ; and which, upon the fuppreflion, was valued at five pounds eleven millings per annum. Here was a priory of White friars, founded by Simon Montfort and Thomas Chitwood, in 127 1 ; and rated, on the diffdution, at ten pounds ten (hillings per annum. In Brigg-ftreet, near the South gate in this town, John Longviie, in ,the year 1322, gave a mefiuage, with the appurtenances, on which to build a chapel and priory for friars Auguftines. An hofpital near the weft gate was founded about the year 1450, by the citizens. The college of All Saints here was valued, upon the diflblution, at two pounds thirteen (hillings and four-pence per annum. NorthampLon fends two members to parliament, and has three weekly markets, held on Wednefday, Friday, and Saturday ; one of which, for horfes, is allowed to be the molt confiderable in the rendezvous of the jockies of both places. Here are eight annual fairs, viz. the twentieth of February, for horfes, horned cattle, 2nd toys ; the fifth of April, the fourth of May, and the fifth of Auguft, are great horfe fairs ; the twenty-fixth of Auguft, for all forts of merchandize ; the nineteenth of September, chiefly for cheefe and fheep ; the twenty- eighth of November, and the nineteenth of December, for cattle of all forts. Near this town is the ancient royal houfe of Holmeby, which was formerly in great efteem, and by its fituation is capable of being made a truly royal palace. But the melancholy reflexion of king Charles I. in this houfe, and his being violently taken hence again by the rebels, has caft a kind of difgrace upon the place, Co that it has been in a great meafure forfaken : the houfe and eftate was purchafed by the late dutchefs of Malborough, and is at prefent poflefTed by a farmer, who has pulled down part of the out-houfes, and converted the re- mainder into barns, ftables, &c. At a little diftance from Northampton lies Nafeby, where the bloody and fatal battle was fought between the royalifts and parliamentarians, upon a fine plain, where at prefent ftands a windmill ; and on it are the marks of feveral large holes where the Main were buried. North-weft from hence is Guilefborough, where are the traces of a Roman camp, the fituation of which is the more remakable, as it is between the Nen and the Avon, a river of Warwickfhire, the only pafs from the north to fouth parts of England not intercepted by any river. This camp was fecured only by a fingle entrenchment, but that of a confiderable breath and depth. Within half a mile of Northampton, at a place called Geddington, there is in a trivium, one of the croffes erected by Edward I. in memory of his queen Eleanor, whofe corps was refted here in its way to Weftminfter; and at a fmall diftance to the north of this crofs, feveral Roman coins have been dug up. At Cogenhoo, upon the river Nen, not far from hence, a family urn and fe- veral Roman coins have been dug up. At Little Billing near this town, was a priory built by William the Conqueror, and dedicated to St. Au- guftine. It was a cell to the priory of St. Andrew at Northampton. William de Wideville, in 1 1 55, gave the chureh of Sulby not far from hence, with fome lands adjacent, to Robert dc Qucrceto, bifhop of Lincoln, to found an abbey of the Premonftratenfian order ; it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and valued upon the diflblution at two hundred and fifty-eight pounds, eight {hillings and five-pence, per annum. A place called Keyland, in the parifh of Cottifbrook, near Sulby, was given to the ab- bot and convent of that place, by William de Buttcvil- lan ; and here was a cell of Premonftratenfian canons, dedicated to St. John. At Kingfthorp, neT Northampton, in the year I200j there was an hofpital erected at the joint expence of one Walter, the convent of St. Andrew's in the town of Northampton, and the prior, for the reception of pil- grims, and poor, indigent, and fickly perfons, to be taken care of by a procurator, two chaplains, and fix lay-bro- thers. There were two chapels in this houfe, one dedi- cated to the Trinity, the other to St. David. It was valued, upon the diflblution, at thirty-two pounds four fhillings and two-pence per annum. At Althrop in the neighbourhood of Northampton is the noble feat belonging to the family of the Spencers* built by Robert earl of Sunderland ; and is particularly noted for a magnificent gallery, furnifhed with a large collection of curious paintings by the beft hands ; but thofe done by the greateft malters, and of courfe the moil valuable, are in the apartments below ; upen the whole there are very few collections of pictures in England better worth feeing. The houfe is fituated in the middle of a charming park, laid out and planted like that of Greenwich, in, Kent, on the (kirts of a beautiful down. There is a noble piece of water, on which is a vefl'el completely equipped ; a fine Venetian gondola, canoes, &c. At a convenient diftance from the houfe, there is an handfome fquare of offices ; and near thefe is a large kitchen-garden finely walled and planted, in which is an elegant building, for the refidence of the gardener, being the model of an Italian villa. Daventry, or Daintry, is a confiderable market town in the high road to Chefter, and is confequently a great thoroughfare ; and well furnifhed with inns, which are its chief fupport. It is diftant from London feventy- thiee miles, has a charity fchool, and is governed by a mayor, aldermen, fteward, and twelve freemen. Roman coins have been frequently dug up here, and the military ways, called Watling ftreet, runs through the town in its courfe to Warwickfhire. After the Ro- mans the Saxons made ufe of the fame camp. It is faid, that in Daventry-park flood a caftle of John of Gaunt : the banks in it refemble thofe of ponds and canals, with a watry fquafhy ground, between them. Daventry has a weekly market on Wednefday, ard five annual fairs, viz. Eafter-Tuefday, for horfes and horned cattle ; the fixth of June, for f'wine and all forts of goods j the third of Auguft, for horned cattle, horfos and fheep ; the fecond of October, for cattle, cheefe, onions, &c. and the twenty-feventh of October, called Ram-fair, chiefly forfneep. On Borough-hill, half a mile from this town, are ftill to be feen the ruins of a Roman fortification, three miles in compafs ; it is at prefent a courfe for the horfe-races. Weedon-Beek, fouth-eaft of Daventry, near the fource of the Nen, over which it has a bridge, was the feat of Wolfere king of the Mercians, whofe daughter con- verted it into a monaftery. A military way runs north from this place, with a caufey in many places broken and worn away, from whence it is called Weedon in the Street. It is the ancient Bannavenna mentioned by Antoninus. Lylborn, near Daventry, is fuppofed to have been a Roman ftation, by its fituation on the Watling-ftreet, and by Roman pavements, trenches, ruins of walls and houfes, and military mounts pf various dimenfions, at or near this place; but more efpecially from the traces of a fort, at a mount called the Round-hill. Upon dig- ging a barrow here there were found fome coals, from whence fome have concluded, that the barrov* was raifed for a boundary, upon the authority of fome ancient writers, who mention fuch a cuftom. In a field near Whitton, about three miles from Daven- try, old foundations of houfes have been dug up, and great numbers of Roman coins, which the people here call Danes money. The Roman Watling-ftreet runs near this town. At Chipping-Warden, not far from Daventry, there are the remains of a rampart of earth, which is fuppofed to have been a fence raifed by the Romans, from its form, and the great number of Roman coins dug up here. In X NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. In?, field in the neighbourhood of Woodford, near Daventry, there are manifeil tokens of Roman buildings, i'uch as dice-like bricks, engraven tiles, and fome years ago a Roman un: was turned up here by the plough. In the church of Prcfton-Capes, near Daventry, Hugh de Leicefter, fherirf of the county, about the end of the Conqueror's reign, placed four Cluniac monks ; who labouring under great want of water, and fuffering much from other inconveniencies, were in a few years removed to the town of Daventry, where the fame Hugh, near the p :rilh-church, built a priory dedicated to St. Auguftine; the monks were fubordinate to the foreign abbey of St. Mary de Garitate. It was difiblved by Cardinal Wolfey, when its revenues were valued at two hundred and thirty-fix pounds feven millings and fix-pence per annum. At Catefby, fouth-weft of Daventry, Robert, the foh of Philip de Eeffeby, as early as the time of king Rich- ard I. built a priory of Benedictine nuns, dedicated to St. Mary and St. Edmund. At the time of the diffolu- tion, here were ten religious, who had revenues to the amount of one hundred and thirty-two pounds ten mil- lings and eleven-pence per annum. At Afhby-Canohs, pear Daventry, there was a priory of Black canons, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, 'before the. reign of king. John. It is uncertain who the founder was; but about the time of the diffolution, here were thirteen religious, endowed with an annual "income of one hundred and nineteen pounds and four-pence. The manor of Everton, near Daventry, was, before the year J 21 7, given to the abbey of Berney in Nor- mandy ; and here was for fome time an alien priory. Towcefter, or Toffetter, in all probability derived its name from ceftffi a fort. It is a hand fome, populous town, of confiderable antiquity; and ftmds in the great road from London to Chefter, at the diftance of fixty- one miles from London. Here are feveral good inns, and a large, well-built church. There is a confiderable manufacture of lace and filk here, which employs the chief part of the inhabitants; and here are annual horfe- races. 7'owcefter is fuppofed to have been the Tripon- tium of Antoninus : it has three bridges over three ftreams, into which the little river Tove, or Wedon, is divided, and which encompafs the tov/n. Many Rou:an coins have, at different times, been dug up in this place ; and the military way, called Watling-ftreet, runs thiough it, and may be traced in many parts between this town and Stony-Stratford, in Buckinghamfhire. In the year 917, this town was befieged by the Danes, but was not taken : king Edward the Elder afterwards encompaffed it with a ftrong ftone wall, but there are not row the leaf! remains of it. Here was an hofpita!, dedicated to St. Leonard, before the year 1240 ; and likewife a col- lege or chauntry, founded in the time ot king Henry IV. by William Sponne, D. D. and reef or of this place; which, upon the diffolution, was valued at nineteen pounds fix lhillings and eight-pence per annum. Towcefter has a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twelfth of May, and the twenty- ninth of October, for cattle of all forts, and merchan- dize. About four miles fouth-weft of this town, there are fome old fortifications, called Caftle-dykes, which take up near eleven acres of ground, on the highcft part of which have been found the ruins of a fortrefs. In iearching among the ftones, two rooms were difcovered, of which one had ftone walls and an arched roof; but from the other iffued a ftench like that of putrified car- cafes, which prevented any farther examination. At Wecdon-Pinkney, on the weft fide of Towcefter, there was a Benedictine priory, dedicated to St. Mary, which was a cell to St. Lucian, near Beauvois in France, as early as the reign of Henry I. It was fuppreffed by Henry V. and the eftate given by Henry VI. to All- Saints College, Oxford. Abundance of very fine ftone, and many Roman coins, have been dug up here. Wee- don now contains two parifhes, and was once a market- town. At Efton Nefton, in the neighbourhood of Towcefter, is a villa belonging to the earl of Pomfret, defigned by 40 \ the famous Inigo Jones. It is a ftatcly building, plea- fantly fituated, amidft delightful plantations of woods and viftas, and commands a fine profpecl. Below the gardens, the meadows, which are of great extent, lie open to the view of the houie ; and the river ferpentizing through thefe, gives an additional beauty to the feat. In the grand view to the back front, beyond the garden, is a large and long canal. The hall is a fine lofty room, and the great ftair-cafc is painted in fiefco by Sir James Fhornhill. The houfe contains feveral curiods pictures ; but the principal glory of this feat, is the magnificent collection, we here meet with, of Greek, Roman, and /Egyptian ft-atues, of white marble, being the moft orna- mental part of the, Marmora Arov.deiiana, which was- lately prefente 1. 7'urnips 2. Barley 3. Clover one year 4. Wheat which, for land rich enough for Wheat, and light enough for turnips, is an excellent courfe. They lay all their dung upon their turnip land, but never mix it With turf or clay. They very often lime their lands for all forts of crops ; fow four quarters on an acre, which coft one (hilling and ten-pence per quarter, and the carriage they reckon as much more ; but it lafts only one year. Sometimes they pare and burn the old fward, which is done for ten (hillings and fix-pence to fifteen (hillings an acre, furprizingly cheap. For turnips they plough three, four, and five times, hoe once, reckon the mean value at thirty-five (hillings an acre, and ufe them for feeding fheep and rearing young cattle. They give the turnip land two earths for barley, fow three buftiels per acre, and gain on a medium four quarters and an half, fometimes fix, and even feven quarters. For oats they plough once, fow five buftiels, and five quarters the average produce ; have now and then ten quarters. For peafe they give two ftirrings, fow three buftiels of feed, and get from two to four quarters. They fow few beans, but plough once, ufe four bufhels of feed, never hoe them ; the crop about two quarters and a halt ; clover at two cuttings gives three loads of hay. The particulars of a farm as follows : 55 Acres in all 12 Of grafs 43 Of arable £.40 Rent 6 Horfes 7 Cows 1 Servant 1 Labourer Has annually 8 Acres of wheat 14 Of fpring corn 7 Of turnips In the whole parifh are 250 Acres 3 Farms 18 Horfes 20 Cows £.200 Rent 7. 20 Poor's Rate 5 C - LA- 374 L 1 N C O L LABOUR. tn hay-time and harveft, one (hilling a day, and board. In winter, eight-pence, and ditto. Reaping per acre, four (hillings and fix-pence. Mowing corn, one (hilling. — 1 — grafs, one (hilling and fix-pence. Hoeing turmps, four (hillings. Ditching, one (hilling and two-pence the acre, or twenty-eight yards. Thre(hing wheat per quarter, one (hilling and eleven- pence. ■ — fpring corn, one (hilling and four-pence. City, Market Towns, £sV. ) The city is Lincoln ; and the market-towns are, Alford, Barton, Binbroke, Bofton, Bourn, Bulling- bxook, Burgh, Burton, Caftor, Corby, Crowland, Deeping-Market, Dunnington, Fokingham, Ganef- borough, Glandford-bridge, Grantham, Grimfby, Hol- heck, Horncaftle, Kirkton, Louth, Rafen-Marlcet, Saltfleet,' Sleaford, Spalding, Spilfby, Stanton, Tatter- (hal, and Wainfleet. Stamford is fo called from its ancient Saxon name, Steanford. It is fituated on the river Welland, upon the borders of Norths mptor.fhire and Rutlandfhire, at the diftance of eighty-three miles from London ; and is governed by a mayor, a recorder and his deputy, a town-clerk, twelve aldermen, twenty-four capital bur- gelles, and two ferjeants at mace. Its firft charter was before Edward IV. It had a charter from that prince, and others from Charles II. and James II. but thefe laft being only temporary, they are expired. The inhabitants have very great privileges, particu- larly a freedom from the jurisdiction of the iheriff of the county, and from being impannelled on juries out of town ; they aie entitled to have the returns of all writs, are exempted from the government of all lords lieute- nants, and claim the privilege of having the militia of the town commanded by their own officers, the mayor being the king's lord lieutenant, and in mediately under his majeffy's command : he is efteemed, within the li- berties and jurisdiction of the town, the fecond man in the kingdom. This town is large, rich, and populous ; and has a fine (tone bridge over the Welland, into Northampton- (hire. It had fourteen parifh churches, but they were reduced to feven, by an act of parliament in the time of king Edward VI. One of thefe churches, St. Martin's, Hands upon the eaft fide of the river, in a part of the town called Stamford-Baron, which in reality is in Northamptonfhire, but is rated within the jurisdiction of this corporation, and on that account goes all by the name of Stamford. In this church of St. Martin, the great Cecil, lord Burleigh, the favourite of queen Eliza- beth, lies buried in a fplendid tomb. There is a church near the bridge, in which is a fine monument of the earl and countefs of Exeter, in white marble, with their figures in a cumbent pofture, as big as the life, done at Rome; and over-againft this church is an inn, known by the fign of the George, efteemed the largeft in Eng- land ; but there is another, called the Bull Inn, far more noble and elegant: it is a handfome free-done qua- drangle, with lathed windows, and has the appearance of a palace. Here is a fine town-hall. The houfes are mod of them covered with (late, and the whole town taken together, is the mod confiderable, compact, and beft built in the county. Here is a charity-fchool, in which eighty children are taught and employed, twenty of them wholly main- tained and cloathed, and the reft are fupplied with wheels, reels, fire and candles: thty are faid to earn four hundred pounds a year. In the reign of K. Hen. Vlf. William Brown, who had been twice mayor, erected and endowed an hofpital here, for a warden, twelve men and a nurfe. The lord Burleigh likewife creeled and endowed an hofpital here — The chief trade of this town is in malt, free-ftene, and fea-eoal. Here is a new courfe fcr horfe-races. N S M I K B. The Danes, in the beginning of their depredations^ burnt this town ; and in the old war between the houfes of York and Lancafter, the party of the latter deftroyed it with fire and fword ; fince which, though it is Hill a flourishing town, it has never recovered its former glory. In the reign of king Richard I. all the Jews in this place, of which there were many, were barbaroufly mur- dered by the inhabitants. It was here the barons met to levy war againftking John, in whofe reign here was the firft bull-baiting. The circumftance which gave life to it is as follows: William earl of Warren, then lord of the town, obferving two bulls in the cafHe meadow fighting for a cow ; and that all the butchers dogs, alarmed at their bellowing, ran out, and fingling one of them, purfued it through the ftreets ; was fo pleafed at the diverfion, that he gave all the meadow for a common to the butchers of the town, on condition that they fhould find a mad bull fix weeks before every Chriftmas, for the continuance of that fport; from whence arofe the proverb of, Ji mad as the baiting bull of Stamford. Mr. Neal, who has taken great pains to trace the antiquities of this county, produces a fragment of an ancient manufcript, to prove that this town was an uni- verfity long before the birth of Chrift, and continued fo till the year 300, when it was difiolved by the pope for adhering to the doctrines of Arius. It was certainly an univerfity before the reign of Edward III. as appears by the remains of two colleges, one called Blackhall, and the Other Brazen-nofe: on the gale of Brazen-cioie College there is ftill a brafs nofe, with a ring through it, like that upon the gate of the college of the fame name at Oxford, which was not built till the rei^n of Henry VIII. and therefore took its name, as well as this diftrn- guifhing circumftance, from Brazen-nofe College of Stamford. It appears alfo, that feveral of the ftudents of Oxford removed to this place, upon fome quarrel between fome ftudents of the north and thofe of the fouth, in the time of Edward III. when it is probable there were feme colleges here to receive them, as they did not (lay long enough in the place to build any. By fome remains of Roman antiquity found here, it appears that this was no inconfiderable place in the time of the Romans ; and there are the traces of a Roman highway from fouth to north, paffing through this town, which feem to indicate, that here once was a ferry over the Welland. In the reign of king Stephen, there was a caftle in the middle of Stamford, of which the foundation plot is ftill vifible ; and here the remarkable cuftom of Borough Englifh ftill fubfifts, by which the youngeft fon is heir to his father. Here was formerly a mint, and feveral monafterics. Here was a priory of Benedictine monks, cell to the monaftery of Durham, and dedicated to St. Leonard : it was valued, upon the fuppreflion, at twenty-five pounds one (hilling and two-pence p>.r annum ; and is now a. farm-houfe, and ftill called St. Cuthberi's Fee. On the eaft fide of the town, near the river, there was a convent of Dominican, or Black friars, founded before the year 1240. Here was an houfe of White or Carmelite friars, founded, as Speed thinks, by king Edward III. buc Tanner thinks it more likely to have been founded by Edward I. in whofe time it occurs. Near the Green Ditch, in the weft fuburb of this town, dofe to St. Peter's Gate, was a priory of friars Auftins, faid to be beg;un by one Fleming, and finifhed by an archdeacon of Richmond : it was in being before the year 1 340. On the eaft fide of the town, north of St. Leonard's, without Paul Gate, ftood a houfe of Grey or Francifcan friars, founded before the forty-eighth of Edward II f. The old bead-houfe, or hofpital, for a warden, a chap- lain, twelve poor old men, and a nurfe, founded and liberally endowed by William Brown, merchant of the ftaple, in 1493* was dedicated to All Saints, and valued at fifty-four pounds twelve (hillings and two-pence per annum : it is yet (landing. Stamford L I N G G L N S H I R E. Stamford fends two members to parliament, has two weekly markets, held on Monday and Friday ; and nine annual fairs, viz. Tuefday before the thirteenth of Fe- bruary, Monday before Midlent, Monday before the twelfth of Auguft, for horfes, and Hock of all forts ; Midlent-Monday, for all forts of habcrdafliery ; Monday before the twelfth of May, Monday after Corpus Chrifti, the thirteenth of June, the fifth of Auguft, and the eighth of November, for horfes, and all forts of ttock* Bridgecafterton, a village north-weft of Stamford, where a fmall river, called the Guafh, or Wafh, crofLs a Roman highway, is fuppofed to have been the Gua- lennae of Antoninus. Between Stamford and Lincoln there are many fpaws or chalybeat mineral fprings. Deeping-Market is an ill-built, dirty town, fituated among the fens, on the north fide of the river Welland, at the diftance of eighty-feven miles from London. It is fuppofed to have taken its name from a vale here, many miles in compafs, and the deepeft in all this marfhy county, Deeping fignifying a deep meadow. It is remark- able, that the channel of the river Glen, which runs from the weft, lies much higher than this plain. Here was formerly a cell of Black monks, belonging to Thorney abbey, in Cambridge/hire, to which it was given by Baldwin, the fon of Giflebert, in the year 1 139. It was dedicated to St. James. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and three an- nual fairs, viz. the fecond Wednesday after the eleventh ©f May, Wednefday before Lammas, the eleventh of Auguft, and the tenth of October, for horfes, ftock, and timber of all forts. Crowland, the next town we vifited, is fo furrounded with bogs, that it is acceffible only on the north and eaft fides, and even there not for carriages, which gave rife to the proverb, that " all the carts which came to *« Crowland were fhod with filver." This town, how- ever, notwithstanding the above-mentioned difadvantage, is well inhabite J : it is diftant eighty-eight miles from London, and confifts of three ftreets, feparated by water courfes, planted on each fide with willows, and built on piles, having a communicarion with each other by a tri- angular bridge of curious contrivance, ftanding on the conflux of the Welland, and a river called the Nine. "This bridge is formed on three fegments of a circle, meeting in one point; and it is faid that the extremity of each fegment, oppofite to the point of contact, ftands in a different county, one in Lincolnfhire, another in Cambridgefhire, and the third in Rutlandshire. Here is a church, which belonged formerly to a fa- mous abbey in this place, the roof of which fell in about half a century ago, and was found to confifi of Irifh oak, finely carved and gilt ; pieces of this are to be found in almoft every houfe. This church, in the time of the civil war, was made a garrifon : over the weft gate of it are the images of divers kings and abbots, among which is that of St. Guthliac, to whom the abbey was dedicated, with a whip and knife, his ufual fymbok. Not far from the abbey is a little ftone cottage, called Anchor Church-houfe, which had formerly a chapel, in which St. Guthliac lived as a hermit, and in which it is faid his body lies buried. The foil round this town is much improved of late by drains and fluices, and moft of the ponds are now turned into corn-fields. The greateit gain that accrues to the inhabitants of this tdwn, is from fifh and wild-ducks ; of the latter they fometimes drive three thoufand into a net at once by dogs, and they are brought hither by decoy-ducks, bred for that purpofe. For the liberty of fifhing in the many pools in and near the town, they pay now to the king, as they did formerly to the abbot, three hundred pounds a year. Ethelbald, king of Mercia, in the year 716, built an abbey here for Black monks, dedicated to St. Mary, St. Bartholomew, and St. Guthlac. It was afterwards burnt by the Danes in 870 ; but king Edred, about the year 94.8, rebuilt it, and it continued in great fplendor and wealth till the general diffolution, when the manors and eftates belonging to it were reckoned worth one thoufand and eighty-three pounds fifteen (hillings and a penny per annum. Upon laying the foundation of the new abbey-church at this place, in the year 11/4, Alan de Croun gave it the advowfon of the church of Frecftone, near Bofton ; and in a little time after, fOme other lands and churches, and placed here a prior and fome Black monks, fubordi- nate to the great monaftery, whom he farther endowed before his death, irt the time 0/ king Stephen. This cell was dedicated to St. James. This town has a weekly market on Saturday, and an annual fair on the fourth of September, for cattle, hemp* and flax. A caufeway leads from hence, between the river Wel- land and the marfhes ; on Which, about two miles from Crowland, flood a pyramid, with an infeription, denot- ing, that it was the utmoft boundary of the abbey's juris- diction, which was in a kind ofifland, three miles in length, and three in breadth. The fkeleton of a crocodile, fixed in a flat flone, now to be feen in the muf;eum of the Royal Society at Lon^- don, is faid to have been difcovered in this county ; the particular place is not mentioned, but it is thought to have been near this town. Holbeck has nothing in it deferving particular notice. It is ninety-eight miles diftant from London, and has a parifh-church, near which Sir John de Kirketon, KnU founded an hofpital for a warden, and fifteen poor per- fons, dedicated to All Saints, about the year 135L Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and two an- nual fairs, viz. the feventeenth of M.;y, and the fecond Tuefday in September, for horfes, cattle of all forts, corn, and flax. At Tyd St. Mary's, on the bank of the Nine, in the fouth-eaft point of this county, near Holbeck, Nicholas Breakfpear was rector, who preached the Chriftian faith to the Norwegians, for which he received a Cardinal's hat; and in the year IT 55, was advanced to the papal chair, and took the name of Adrian the Fourth. Spalding is a more neat and populous town than might be expected from its Situation, being encompaffed with, lakes, canals, and rivers, the drains of Bofton and Lang- toft centering as it were upon it : befides thefe, it is al- moft furrounded by the Welland, which is navigable through it, and has a bridge over it, with a fmall port ; to which feveral barges belong, that are chiefly employed in carrying coals and corn : veffels of fifty or fixty tons may come up to it. This town is diftant ninety-eight miles from London, and has a handfome large market- place, a free gram mar- fchool for the fons of the inhabi- tants, and a charity-fchool. Egelrick, one of the abbots of Crowland, afterwards bifhop of Durham, made a firm caufeway from hence to Deeping, through a vaft foreft of deep marches, which was from him called Elrick-road : there is at this time no remains of it. Thorold de Buckenhale gave a place in this town, in the year 1052, for the habitation, and lands for the maintenance of a prior and five monks from Crowland, who were forced to abandon their cell after theConq^eft, from the barbarous ufage of Yvo Tailboys, earl of An- giers in France, then lord of this town ; and great part of the adjacent country. The fame Yvo, about the year 1074, gave the church of St Mary, and the manor of this place, to the abbey of St. Nicholas at- Angiers, whence were fent over fome Benedictine monks ; and became an alien priory to that foreign monaftery, dedi- cated to St. Mary and St. Nicholas. It was given, in the twentieth year of Henry VI. to King's College, in Cambridge; and in the firft of Edward IV. to Sion abbey, in Middlefex ; but being made a prioratus indi- gena, and even at laft an abbey, it continued till the general fupprefiion, when its yearly income was rated at feven hundred and fixty-feven pounds eight fhillings and eleven-pence. Spalding has a weekly market on Tuefday, and five annual fairs, viz. the twenty-feventh of April, for hemp and flax; the twenty-ninth of June, for horfes andbeafts; the thirtieth of Auguft, for horfes ; the twenty-fifth of September and feventeenth of December, for hemp and flax. At 3 7« LINCOLNSHIRE. At Fleet, in the fens, a village north-eaft of Spalding, there were found, not many years ago, three pecks of Roman copper coins, piled down edge-wife, moft of them of the emperor Gallienus. Bourn is fituated on a plain adjoining to the fens of Lincolnfhire, and is remarkable only for tanning leather, and for a horfe-courfe. It is diftant from London ninety- three miles, and has a pleafant river belonging to it, which runs to Spalding. Here was a caftle, built by the Wakes, formerly the lords of the manor, who in the reign of king Edward I. obtained a licence for a market and fair. Here was once a chalybeat fpring, famous for its medicinal virtues. Baldwin, the fon of Giflebert de Gaunt, afterwards carl of Lincoln, on or before the year 1138, fettled an abbot and canons in a monaftery in this town, of the order of St. Auftin, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and rated at one hundred and ninety-feven pounds feven- teen (hillings and five-pence per annum, at the time of the difiolution, when it contained eleven canons. This town has a weekly market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, viz. the feventh of March, the fixth of May, and the twenty-ninth of October, all forhorfes and horned cattle. Near this place is Grimfthorp, remarkable for an ele- gant feat belonging to the duke of Ancaftcr. The park is of great extent : the road leads through it for the courfe of about three miles : the houfe appears at firft view extremely magnificent, being admirably fituated on a hill, with fame very fine woods ftretching away on each fide; many hills and flopes feen in different direc- tions, and all pointing out as it Were an approach to the dwelling. In the vale before the houfe is a noble piece of .water, with two pretty yachts upon it ; the banks are boldly indented with creeks in a fine ftile, and the breadth and length confiderable ; but two circumftances are much wanted to render it complete : the principal end of it appears in full view, inftead of being loft be- hind a hill or a plantation, which this might eafily be, and would add infinitely to its beauty and magnificence ; for the conclufion of a water being feen, is painful at the very firft view. The other point is, the break in the water by the road ; for in fact it is two lakes, and one being higher than the other, a real bridge cannot be thrown over : at prefent it is a caufeway, but it might very eafily be made to appear fo like a bridge, as to de- ceive even thofe who pal's it, and this would be attended with a great effect:. The houfe is a very convenient, and a good one, and fome of the apartments very elegantly fitted up. The hall is fifty feet long by forty broad, and of a very well proportioned height ; at each end is a ftone ftair-cafe, parted from the room by ftone arches; but thefe are heavy. The chapel is neat. The tea-room, with a bow window, is pretty ; the chimney-piece, of marble dug out of the park. Returning through the hall, you are conducted up the ftair-cafe, into the principal apart- ment : the firft is a tea-room richly ornamented with fluted pilafters of the Corinthian order, finely carved and gilt; the ceiling, cornices, &c. in a molt light and. elegant tafte, gilt fcrolls on a light lead colour. Next is the dining-room, forty by twenty-feven, with two bow windows, fitted up with gilt ornaments on a blue ground. The ceiling ditto on white in compartments. The feftoons of gilt carving among the pictures, &C. is in a light and pleafing tafte. The chimney-piece one of the nioft elegant in England; under the cornice three baffo relievos in white marble, but not polifhed ; the centre, a man pulling a thorn out of a lions paw, well executed : thefe are upon a ground of Siena marble, and have a fine effect ; they are fupported on each fide by a fluted Ionic pillar of Siena. In this room are feveral family portraits, and King Charles and his family, by Vandyke ; a large picture, and fine. The next is a bad proportioned room, being much too narrow and low for its height, bnt the fitting up is hand fome. Here are, Codes defending the bridge. His attitude is a very tame one ; nor is there any great expreflion in it. Two landfcapes in a fhowy ftile, containing each a large trunk of a tree ; pretty. A fire at night in a town, fine ; the figures in the front ground are numerous and well grouped, and the light not badly expreffed. Chrift crowned with thorrts ; the minute expreflion good, but never were ideas more truly Dutch. A battle 5 fine. We fuppofe by Bourgognone. Two large pieces of cartle ; we'apprehend by Baffin. The diffufion of light is in his ftile, and likewife the roughnefs of the tints. A Dutch fain. The blue damafk bed-chamber is elegant ; it U hun dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. Martial. Here were maintained, about the time of the diffolution, an abbot and eleven canons, having yearly revenues to the amount of ninety-nine pounds two fhillings and ten-pence. King Henry II. before the year 1173, gave to St. Gilbert, and the canons of Sempringham, an ifland called Ruckholm, within the bounds of Cadney, upon the river Ankam, fouth of Glandford-Bridge, to found a priory of their order, which was called Newftede, de- dicated to the Trinity, and endowed, at the diffolution, with thirty-eight pounds thirteen fhillings and five-pence per annum. In the beginning of the reign of king Henry III. hers was an hofpital or priory for canons of the order of St. Auftin, and certain poor perfons, built, and dedicated to" the Virgin Mary, by William de Albini the third. Its LINCOL- NSHIRE. 385 Its yearly revenues, upon the fuppreffion, were valued at thirty-feven pounds fix (hillings. At Gokewell, north-eaft of Glandford-Bridge, there was a Ciftertian nunnery founded by William de Alta Ripa, before the year 1185. It had a priorefs and fix nuns about the time of the diflblution, with a yearly income of feventy-fix pounds twelve {hillings and ten- pence. At Wingall, fouth of this town, there was an alien priory, dedicated to St. John, cell to the abbey of Sees, in Normandy, to which it belonged in the beginning of the reign of Henry III. Adjoining to Milwocd Park, in the ifle of Axholm, fouth-weft of Glanford -bridge, ftood a monaftery of the Carthufians, called the Priory in the Wood, or the Houfe of the Vifitation of the Virgin Mary, founded, about the nineteenth }ear of king Richard If. by Tho- mas Vlowbray, earl of Nottingham, and earl marfhal of England, afterwards duke of Norfolk ; and dedicated to St. Mary, St. John the Evangelift, and St. Edward the King and Confeflbr : the yearly revenues of this priory, upon the diflblution, were rated at two hundred and thirty- feyeh pounds fifteen {hillings and two-pence. Barron is a large, draggling town, moftly noted for the horfe- ferry to Hull, a borough town of Y'orkfhire, crofs the H umber,' which is here fix miles over ; and for the cock-matches which are frequently made here with the people of Axholm. It is diitant from London one hundred and fixty-three miles. Here is a weekly m?.rket held on Monday, and an annual fair kept on Trinity Thurfday, forcattle. At Thornton, fouth-caft of this town, William Le Grofs, carl of Albemarle, and lord of Holdernefs, founded, in the yea*- 1 1 39, a monaftery of Black canons, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which was valued, upon the fuppreffion, at five hundred and ninety-four pounds feventeen {hillings and ten-pence per annum. Ac a place formerly called Aifefham, or Ellefham, near Thornton, and not far from Ba:ton, Keatrix de Amundeville began an hofpital for feveral poor brethren, which her fon Walter confirmed and augmented', and committed to the care of a prior and regular canons of the order of St. Auftm, before the year 1 1 66. This priorv was dedicated to i't. Mary and St. Edmund ; and had but five canons a little before the fuppreffion, when its poflbffions were valued at feventy pounds and eight- pence per annum. Wulpher, king of the Mercians, about the middle of the feventh century, built a monaftery at Burrow, a vil- lage near Baiton. Burton, called alfo Burton Stather, is well fituated for trade on the eaft of the Trent, on which it has, feveral mills. The houfes are pieal'antly intermixed with trees. It ftands at the diftance of one hundred and forty-nine miles from London ; and has two churches, one of which is fo low in icfpcct to the precipice over it, that a perfon may almoft leap from thence on the fteeple. Here is a weekly market on Monday, but no annual fair. North of .this town, at Alkborough, were fijund abundance of fea-fhells and fubterraneous trees, thought to be the 1 cliques of the univcrfal deluge. Near Wintringham, a village north of Burton, the foundations of an old Roman town were lately ploughed up, and manv remains of antiquity found. At Hyrft, in the ifle of Axholm, near Burton, there wa« a cell of one or two Black canons, belonging to the abbey of Noftel, near Wakefield, a market- town of Yorkshire, to which it was given by Nigel de Albitri, in the time of Henry I. This fmall noule was dedicated to the Virgin Many, and at the diflblution was rated but at five pounds ten {hillings and 3 penny per annum. FCukton derives, its name from a kirk or church here, which is .1 fpacious edifice, built in the form of a ca- thedral. It ftands at the diftance of one hundred and thitty-fix miles from London, and is famous for a fort of apple called the Kiiktcn Pippin. This town has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the eighteenth of July, and the 41 eleventh of December, for cattle of all forts, and mer- chandizing goodi. At a village called Hiberftow, near Kirkton, upon the Roman highway, are ftill to be feen the foundations of feveral Roman buildings, with tyles, coins, and other remains of Roman antiquity. Several fuch remains have alfo been difcovered about Boughton, a vilLge near Glanford-Bridge. At Roxby, a village near Burton, was lately difcovered a Roman pavement. At Winter- ton-cliff, in the north-weft extremity of the county, are many remains of Roman buildings ; and at Alkbo- rough, two miles more to the weft, there is ftill a fmall fquare intrenchment or camp, now called Countefs Clofe, from a countefs of Warwick, who, it is faid, lived there, or owned the eftate. The caftle here, it is obferved, was very conveniently placed by the Romans, in the north-weft angle of the counry, as a watch-tower; to overawe Nottinghamftiire and Yorkfhire. At a place formerly called Tunftal, fuppofed to have been near Kirkton, there was a houfe of Gilbertine nuns, founded by Reginald de Crevequer, in the time of king Stephen, which feems to have been united to Ballington by his fon Alexander. Ganefborough is a well built town, and reckoned the moft flourifhing in the county. It has a church, which being ruinous, was pulled down in 1735 by act of par- liament and rebuilt. Here are feveral meeting-houfes of Proteftant Difienters, and a fine market-place. This town is fituated at the diftance of one hundred and thirty- feven miles from London, upon the river Trent, by means of which it has a good trade, fhips of confiderable burden being brought up by the tide, though it is near forty miles from the Humber by water. It is remarkable for the Danes having landed here when they came up the Trent. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. Eafter-Tuefday, and the twentieth of October, for beafts, fheep, and all ferts of fhop-goods. The North-Marfh, iu the neighbourhood of this town, is remarkable for horfe-races. At Stratton, a village between Ganefborough and Lincoln, are found the Ophites, or ferpent ftones, being a kind of variegated marble, of a dufky green ground, with here and there fpots of a lighter green. AtMerton, near Ganefborough, are ftill fome remains of a Roman highway, leading from Doncafter, a market- town of Yorkfhire, to Lincoln ; and about a quarter of a mile from the town, there are two or three confiderable pieces of Roman pavement. Stow, a village near Ganefborough, was f rmerly a city called Sidnacefler, and is fuppofed to have been a Roman ftation. Littleborough, a fmail town about three miles from Ganefborough, is thought to be the Agelocum or Sege- locum of the Romans. An urn was found here full of the coins of the emperor Domitian ; and many other coins have been ploughed up in the neighbouring fields. On fome hills between Ganefborough and a neighbour- ing village called Lea, many Roman coins, and pieces of Roman urns, have beer, dug up ; and one of ihefe hills, called Caftle -hill, is furrounded with intrenchments, faid to inclofe above an hundred acres. At a place formerly called Heyningcs, or Ileixnynge, two miles diftantfrom this town, there was a Ciftertian nunnery, founded by Rcbeit Evermue, about the year 1 180. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, had a priorefs and twelve nuns, with a yearly revenue of forty- nine pounds five {hillings and two-pence. At Spittle, in the ftrett between Ganefborough. and Market-Rafen, there was a chapel and hofpital, dedi- cated to St. Edmund, founded before the fixleenth of Edward II. and^ augmented by Thomas Alton, canon of Lincoln, in the reign oi king Richard 11. It is yet in being, and under the care of the dean and chapter or Lincoln. Curious Plants found in Lincolrifhire. Chickweed Knot-grafs with very narrow leaves, and flowers fet along the flalks, as it were in (pikes ; Pofygo* num dAgufi'rjJitna gr amines folio crcclum^ Bet. 5 F Caraways j $86 L I N C O L N S H I R E. Caraways ; Carum vulgare, Park ; found plentifully in the marfhy and fenny grounds. Faii'-flower'd Nettle-hern; Cannabis fpuria fore aniplo, \abio purpurea ; met with in great plenty about Spalding. Garden Scurvy-grafs ; Cochlearia major rotundifolia ; in the marines in Holland, and in many other places near the lea-fidr. Golden Dock ; Lepathum folio acuto y fore aureo, C. B. found about Crowland, and in other places of the fens. Marfh Gentian, or Calathian Violet; Gentianapa- lufiris anguftiflia, C. B. found in a park at Fattifliall, and on the heathy grounds thereabout. Sallow -thorn ; Rhamnus vel Ohafter Germanicus, f. B. found in plenty on the fea-banks on Lindfey-coaft. Woad ; Glajlum ; grows wild at Fothcrby, near Louth. Samphire, ufed as a pickle ; found at Bofton, Scalp, and other places. Wild Straw berries ; Fragaria ; found plentifully in the woods near Tatterfhal. Cranberries; Vacunium; found plentifully on the edge of the fens near Tatterfhal. Other Curious Particulars, not mentioned in the fore- going Account of Lincolnfhire. Near the middle of the large tra£t of barren land called Lincoln Heath, (which is about fourteen miles long) ftands the Light-houfe, fituated in the road from Sleaford to Lincoln, as a guide for travellers, built about fifteen years ago by a gentleman who loft his way in going over the heath. It is a very tall fquare pillar, perhaps about one hundred and twenty, or one hundred and forty feet high. There are ftairs to the top, which is lighted every night. It ftands in a fquare court, walled round : at each corner of the court is a fmall houfe, all four being of a fize ; they are fquare, with a fquare tiled roof, and a weathercock at top ; and in one of thefe live the people who put up the light. The light-houfe is built of fquare ftone; and behind the court it ftands in, is a plantation of firs of about forty or fifty acres. Some part of the heath is now inclofed, and fown with corn ; and in the fouth part of it are great numbers of rabbit warrens. All over the wolds are a great many rabbit warrens, which are fold in feveral places for three-pence a couple. In Holland, land lets from twenty to fixty (hillings per acre ; and hemp and flax land for feventy fhillings per acre. In Kefteven, from eight to twenty-two fhillings ; and in Lindfey, from one penny to fixteen fhillings per acre ; hundreds of acres being let for four-pence or fix -pence per acre; befides many more hundreds of acres of barren heaths, inhabited by rabbits. A great deal of woad is now cultivated in thedivifion called Holland. Cole-feed is alfo fown in feveral parts of the fame divifion, and fent to the oil-mills at Bofton, &c. To the foregoing account of Lincoln cathedral, we muft beg leave to add, That feveral new windows, cu- rioufly painted, were added to that famous ftrudture in the year 1766 ; and that the church was alfo then new rooted in a very elegant manner. A manufacture of camblets is alfo lately eftabhfhed in Lincoln. Remarks on the Sea-Coasts of Lincolnfhire. The fea-coafts of Lincolnfhire extend from the mouth of the Nen to the mouth of the Humber. Ships of very large burden come up to Bofton, fituated near the mouth of the Witham. A fand of fome length ftretches along the fhore, on both fides of the harbour ; but this is the only danger attending fhips bound to this port. The tower of Bofton is of great fervice to fhips bound to this port ; for in clear weather, it is feen at the entrance of the channel called Bofton Deeps, the navi- gation of which is confidered as difficult as that of any place on the eaftern fhore of Britain. The town of Wainfleet ftands at the mouth of a tide- harbour, frequented by fmall coafting veftels. Saltfleet ftands alfo at the mouth of another tide-har- bour, frequented, like the former, by fmall veffels. The next harbour on this coaft is that of Grimfby, where there is water fufficient for fhips of confiderable burden, and a confiderable trade is carried on here. Several fands lie near the mouth of the Humber ; one of them, called the Nefs-fand, ftretches off feveral miles from the fhore, and has a buoy on the outer point of it, for the direction of fhips bound either to Grimfby har- bour, or up the Humber, About three miles to the eaftward of the Nefs-fand, is another, called Ball-fand, which is alfo often dan- gerous to fhips of burden. A mile beyond the Nefs-fand, is another, called Bur- row-fand, which muft be alfo avoided in failing up the Humber. But we fhall be more particular in defcribing the mouth of the Humber in our account of Yorkfhire. Barton ftands farther up the Humber, and is frequented by fmall veffels. About ten miles above Barton, the Trent falls into the Humber. Ships of two hundred tons burden pafs up the Trent as far as Gainfborough ; and at Stockworth, a village about four miles above Gainfborough, there is a dock, where veffels of two hundred and fixty tons are often built. Members of Parliament for Lincolnfhire. The county of Lincoln fends twelve members to par- liament ; two knights of the fhire for the county, two citizens for Lincoln, and two burgeffes for each of the following boroughs, Stamfoid, Grantham, Bofton, and Grimfby. N O T T I N G- £ 3*7 3 NOTTINGHAMSHIRE. THIS county is bounded by Yorkfliire on the north; by Leicefterfhire on the fouth ; by Lincolnfhire on the eaft ; and by Derbyfhire on the weft. It extends in length, from north to fouth, about forty-three miles ; from e?ft to weft, about twenty-four miles ; and is one hundred and ten miles in circumference. Southwell, a market-town hear the middle of the county, is diftant one hundred and fourteen miles north-north-weft from London. RIVERS. The principal rivers of this county are, the Trent, the Erwafh, and the Idle. The Trent rifes in the high- lands, of Staffordfhire; and dividing Derbyfhire from Leicefterfhire, runs from the fouth-weft to the north-eaft part of Nottinghamfhire; and being joined by many lefs confiderable rivers, enters Lincolnfhire, in the account of which county the courfe of it has been already de- fcribed. The Erwafh is a river of Derbyfhire, and will be defcribed in the furvey of that county. The Idle, or Iddle, rifes near Mansfield, a market-town; and running north-eaft, falls into the Dun, a river of Lincolnfhire, on the weft fide of the ifle of Axh'olm. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Notting- hamfhire. The only river in this county is the Trent, which is navigable for fhips of large burden for near forty miles from its influx with the Humber. The barges go up as high as Nottingham without the afliftance of locks or flops ; and to Burton, in Staffordfhire, by the afliftance of art. The ftream is full, the channel deep and fafe, and the tide flows up to Gainfborough, and on fpring- tides, to Newark. By thefe advantages, the navigation is of great fervice to the trade of the feveral counties which border on this river ; efpecially the cheefe trade from Chefhire and Warwickfhire, which have otherwife no navigation but from the parts about Weft Chefter to London ; whereas, by means of this river, it is brought by water to Hull, and fhipped there for all the ports on the fouth and eaft coaft. of Britain. A navigable canal is now making for joining the Trent and the Merfey; but as that canal will be carried through the counties of Chefhire, Stafford, and Derby, we fhall defer our ac- count of that great and ufeful undertaking till we come to defcribe thefe counties. Air, Soil, be Sedes Archiepifcopalis, and on the fouth fide of jit are the ruins of a very grand palace, which belonged to the archbifhops of York, who had three parks here, which, though difparked, ftill retain the name. It was fuppofed "to have been built by one of the archbifhops of the name of Booth, there being a chapel by the fouth wall, which to this day is called Booth's Chapel ; but though the archbifhops have no feat, they have been all along from before the Conqueft lords of the manor, and by the grants of feveral kings, enjoy great privileges here; for they have the returns of writs upon all and lingular their lands, tenements, and fires here ; and be- fides a great leet, which they do or may hold over divers townfhips, they have a feftions of peace kept by turns (at this place and Scrooby) by certain juftices of peace of their own nomination, though under the king's commiffion. Adjoining to the church is a free-fchool, under the care of the chapter, where the chorifters, with other boys belonging to the town, are taught gratis. The mafter is chofen by the chapter, and muft be ap- proved by the archbifhop of York. There are alfo two fdlowfhips and two fcholarfhips in St. John's College in Cambridge, founded by Dr. Kcton, canon of Salifbury, in the reign of king Henry VIII. to be prefented by the mafter and fellows of the faid college to fuch as have been chorifters of the church at Southwell. This place, which ftands on a rivulet that fal's into the Trent, has given name to a very confiderable family, difperfed into divers counties, of which the greateft orna- ment was Sir Robert Southwell, the.grandfather of Ed- ward Southwell, Efq; at King's- Wefton, near Briftol. Southwell has a weekly market on Saturday, and an annual fair held on Whitfun-Monday, for horfes, horned cattle, fheep, fwine, and merchandize. South of this town, at Thurgorton, Ralph deAyn- court, about the year 1 1 30, founded a convent, confut- ing of a prior and canons of the order of St. Auguftine, who were endowed at the fuppreffion with two hundied and fifty-nine pounds nine fhillings and four-pence per annum. The manor cf Fifkarton, near this place, having been given by Ralph de Ayncourt to the convent of Thurgarton, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE. 3Bg Thurgarton, here was a priory of fome Black canons, belonging to that monaftery, who had a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. At a pjace called BraJebufh, in the parifh of Gonal- fton, near Southwell, William Herit, in the time of Henry III. built an hofpital, dedicated to St. Mary Mag- dalen, which is ftill in being, and is called Gonalfton Spittle. There was likewife another hofpital near this town, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, as early as the year 1 313. The next place we vifited was Nottingham, one hun- dred and twenty-two miles from London. It gives name to the {hire, is a borough by prefcription, and a town and county of itfclf by charter. It is reckoned one of the neateft in England, and has as good a trade as molt inland towns. It ftands pleafantly on the afcent of a rock overlooking the river Trent, which runs pa- rallel with it about a mile to the fouth, and has at a great expence been made navigable to it by barges. Though it be much more ancient, there is no diftinct ac- count of this town before the year 852, when the Danes got poffeffion of it, but after a long hege, furrendered it to the Mercians and Weft Saxons. The Danes nevei the- lefs came hither again a few years after ; and though they were again dreve from it farther to the north, they re- turned to it a third time, and kept pofleffion of it till 94.0, when it fubmitted to William the Conqueror, whofe natural fon, William de Peverel, built a ftrong caftle on a deep precipice on the weft fide of the town, which was rebuilt by king Edward IV. and kingRichard III. made confiderable additions to it. Camden ob- serves, that it was never taken by ftorm : it was once btfieged in vain by Henry of Anjou, at which time the garrifon burnt down all the buildings about it. In the barons war in 11 75, k was taken through furprize by •Robert Count de Eerrers, who ftripped the townfmen of all they had, and gave it to his foldiers. King James I. granted it to Francis earl of Rutland, who pulled down many of the good buildings, of which the iron and other materials were fold ; yet at the beginning of the civil wars, king Charles f, thought it the fitteft place to fet up his ftandard. Shortly after, it became a garrifon for the parliament ; and though at the end of the war orders were given to pull the caftle down, yet it was not quite demolifhed. After the Reftoration, the duke of Buck- ingham (George Villiers) fold it to William Cavendifh, then marquis, afterwards duke of Newcaftle, who in 3674 erected a moft ftately fabric in the place of part of it. From him it came to the Pelham family, and fome years ago it was improved and adorned at a great ex- pence by the late duke of Newcaftle, who has made it one of the beft feats in England, and in a fporting country, which is a fecond Newmarket for races and all other diverfions, there being a fine plain for a horfe- courfe on the north fide of the town . It is a large, well-built place, with three neat churches, the chief of which, St. Mary's, is built like a collegiate church ; a grand town-houfe erected on piazzas ; a fine fpacious market-place, with two crofles in it, and a gaol for the town and county. Befides the cheefe which they receive in great quantities from Warwickfhire and Staf- fordftiire, by the river Trent, it brings them all their heavy goods from the Humber, and even from Hull. This river being rendered very large by the addition of the Dove, the Derwent, the Erwafh, and the S'our, after it has palled Burton in Staffbrdfhire, has a ftately k»ne bridge of nineteen arches over it ; and as it fome- .jimes overflows the neighbouring meadows, a caufeway is erected, with arches at proper diftances, for near a mile long, quite from the river to the town. The cor- poration is governed by a mayor, recorder, fix aldermen, two coroners, two fheriffs, two chamberlains, and twenty- four common-councilmen, eighteen of the fenior council, and fix of the junior, a bill-bearer, and two pindars, one for the fields, the other for the meadows. The firft is alfo the town woodward, and attends the foreft courts, for this town is within the jurifdiction of the foreft. Here is an uncertain number of perfons called the Cloth- ing, and above twelve hundred other common burgefles. Glafs and earthen wares are made herej but its chief 42 manufacture is weaving of frame-ftockings, befides glafs and earthen ware. This town has the honour of giving title of earl, as well as Winchelfea, to the noble family of Finch. It has an alms-houfe, built about 1640, by Henry Hanley, Efq; and endowed with one hundred pounds a year, for twelve poor people. The rock 'it ftands on was anciently called the Dolorous Hill, or Golgotha, becaufe of the great flaughter of the ancient Britons there by king Humber, a piratical monarch of the north. The name of the town is derived from the Saxon word Snottengbain, i. e. Caves ; which the ancients dug under fteep rocks towards the Lindfor places of retreat. Some of them are cut out with great art into convenient apart- ments, with chimnies, windows, &c. many of which lie under the caftle. One of them is noted for the hiftory of Chrift's PaiTion, cutout by David II. king of Scots, when prifoner here ; and there is a winding ftair-cafe to the bottom, leading to a place called Mortimer's Hole, in which Roger Mortimer, earl of March, is faid to have abfeonded, when he was taken by order of Ed- ward III. and afterwards hanged for betraying his country to the Scots for money, and for other ambitious villainous defigns; and, as fome fay, in particular for debauching the queen mother. The rock on which the town ftands, being fo foft as to yield eafily to the pick-ax and fpade, affords excellent cellaridge, with two or three vaults, one under another ; and fteps are hewn out of it, to the number, in fome places, of eighty in depth, which are great conveniencies for ftoring their malt liquors, whereof the inhabitants make a vaft advantage, by fending them to moft parts of England ; for which purpofe all the low-lands hereabouts are fowed with barley. The bell malt is made here of any town in this part of England, and fent ft>y land-carriage to Derb/, through all the Peak as far as Manchefter, and to other towns in Lan- cafhire, Chefhire, and even into Yorkfhiie. There is one curiofity here very much taken notice of by travel- lers, viz a houfe built on the fide of a hill, where one enters at the garret, and afcends to the cellar, which is at the top of the houfe, Marfhal Tallard, who was taken prifoner by the Englifh forces under the duke of Marlborough, at the battle of Hockftet, was confined to this beautiful town and country, if fuch a charming fpot might be called a confinement, for feven years. As the caftle has oftener been the refidence of our monarch than, any place fo far from London, fo the town has more gentlemen's houfes than any other of its bignefs in Bri-? tain. In the duke of Newcaftle's park there is a ledge of perpendicular rocks hewn into a church, houfes, chambers, dove-houfes, &c. The altar of the church is natural rock, and there appears to have been a fteeple and pillars ; and between this and the caftle there is a hermitage of the like workmanfhip. The aftizes, feilions, and other affemblies for the public bufinefs of the county, are held at that called King's Hall, near St. Mary's church-yard, which is not in the county of the town ; and the feflions and courts for the corporation are kept in the town-hall. Dr. Thornton fays, that the fcavenger of this town is not only to fee that the ftreets be kept clean, but upon extraordinary occafioris, h? has the ho- nour of attending the mayor's wife. The corporation has very good eftates, fome for general, others for parti- cular ufesj as for the maintenance of their free-fchool, and their coftly bridges over the Trent, called Heathbrct Bridges. There are in all four bridges, but the faireft, which is built of ftone, lies over the Lind, and i? kept in repair at the charge of the town and county. There is a noted hofpital here, called Plumtree';-, from its founder John Plumtree, Efq; in the reign of Richard II. who built and endowed it for thirteen poor old widows ; which falling to decay, was pulled down in 1654, and rebuilt by his defcendant, Dr. Huntington Plumtree, a learned poet and phyfician. Here are three charity- fchools (one for thirty-five boys, who are cloathed as well as taught, and twenty girls) all maintained by fub- fcriptions and collection?. In the reign of king John, there was an hofpital in this town for a mafter or warden, two chaplains, and fevera] fick poor perfons, dedicated to St. John the Baptift. 5 G vd 59 c NOTTINGHAMSHIRE. and valued, upon the diflblution, at five pounds fix /hil- lings and eight-pence per annum. Here was another hofpital, as old as the reign of king Henry III. dedicated to St. Leonard. In a chapel here, dedicated to St. Mary, in the rock under the caftle, there was a cell of two monks, about the time of king Henry III. and about this time there fcems alfo to have been a college of fecular priefis in the caftle. In a place called Broad Marfli, in the weft part of this town, there was a houfe of Grey friars, faid to have been founded by king Henry III. in the year 1250. Here was a houfe of Carmelite, or White friars, of which Reginald, lord Grey of Wilton, and Sir John Shirley, knight, were reputed founders, about the year 1276. Nottingham fends two members to parliament, has three weekly markets, on Wednefday, Friday, and Sa- turday ; and four annual fairs, viz. Friday next after the thirteenth of January, the feventh of March, Thurfday before Eafter, and the fecond, thiid, and fourth of Oc- tober, for horfes, horned cattle, and the latter lik«wife tor checfe. At Wilford, near this town, a large pot was dug up not many years ago, with a great number of Roman copper coins in it. On a hill in a field near Barton, fouth of Nottingham, there is a camp, fuppofed to have been Britifh, with iev-ral ancient coins found in it. At Linton, neai Nottingham, in the beginning of the reign of king Henry I. William Peverell built a priory, dedicated to the Trinity, and fubordinate to the abbey of Cluny in Normandy. It was made denifon in the fixteenth of Richard II. and continued till the general dillolution, when the yearly revenues of it were valued at three hundred and twenty-nine pounds fifteen millings and ten-pence. Here was an hofpital dedicated to St. Anthony; and a houfe of Carmelite friars; but there are no particulars relating to them upon record. North -weft of this town, at a place called Beanvale, Nicholas de Cantilupe, in the feventeenth year of Ed- ward III. founded a Carthufian monaftery, dedicated to the Trinity. About the time of the diflblution, here was a prior, and near nineteen monks, who had pof- fefiions valued at one hundred and ninety-fix pounds fix (hillings per minimi. South of this town, at Ruddington, William Ba- bington, Efq; in the time of king Henry VI. founded a college for a warden and four chaplains, which was en- dowed, upon the fupprefiion, with revenues valued at thirty pounds per annum. It has been a general obfervation, that a cuftom has prevailed among all nations, of ftigmatizing the inhabi- tants of fome particular fpot, as remarkable for ftupidity. Among the Afiatics, it was Phrygia; Abdera, among the Thracians ; Bceotia, with the Greeks ; and in Eng- land, it is Gotham, a village a little to the fouth of Nottingham. Of the Gotharnites, ironically called, The Wife Men of Gotham, many ridiculous fables are traditionally told ; particularly, that having often heard the cuckovv, but never feen her, they hedged in a bufh, whence her note fcemed to proceed ; that being confined within fo fmall a compafs, they might at length fatisfy their curiofity. What gave rife to this ftory, is not now remembered; but there is, at a place called Court-hill, in this parifh, a bufh ftill known by the name of Cuekow Bufh. Clifton, in this neighbourhood, is a good feat, with pictty gardens, and a noble profpect ; and in the church are many old brafles of the Clifton family. As this houfe is fituatcd on the fide of an hill, fo the gardens, which were above the houfe, rife in three ter- races. The levelling of the ground on each of thefe, fo as to make them into fo many flat parterres, was at- tended with a great cxpence, and is a proof that the de- liver had very little tafte; for, had thV natural fiopc of the hill been preferved, the whole furface might have been viewed either from the top or bottom, which is now cut off by the terraces, one of which can only be feen at any one point of view. On the top of the hill has been lately built a fine room, which is oppofite to the caftle at Nottingham, and commands a fine view of that, and the adjoining meadows, with the Trent ferpentizing through them, which renders the profpecl: very delightful. The plan- tations about this feat, which were made by the late Sir Gervas Clifton, deferve to be mentioned, as an example for other gentlemen ; fince, by a very inconfiderable ex- pence, they may greatly beautify and increafe the value of their eftates. Three miles from Nottingham is Wollaton-hall, the feat of lord JVIiddleton, and the nobleft building in this county. The park, inclofed within a brick wall, is much finer than the great park adjoining to the caftle of Notting- ham, being much better planted with timber; whereas that at Nottingham was all cut down, and fequeftred in the late wars. There is a pretty fummer-houfe, pannelled and cieled with looking-glafs, which produces a pleafant efrecl. Underneath is a water-houfe, with grotefque work of fhells, &c. The hall, at the firft entrance into the houfe, is fo high, that a man on horfeback might exer- cife a pike in it. The late Sir Thomas Parkyns, of Bunny-park, about fix miles from Nottingham, fo noted for his athletic exercifes, particularly for the art of wreftling, of which he wrote a treatife, lies buried in Bunny chancel, under a marble monument, on which is reprefenred the fturdy baronet in a wreftling pofture, old Time with his fcythe mowing him down, as if nothing elfe could fubdue him. He had caufed a ftone coffin to be depofited for himfelf in the family vault for years before he died. Thefe verfes are inferibed on his monument : §hiem modo Jlravifti longo in certamine, Tcmpus t Hie recubat Britonum clarus in orbe pugil. "Jam primum ftratos prater te vicerat ornnes : De te ctiam viflor, quando refurget^ erit. Which may be thus tranllated ; Here lies, O Time, the vu 1 thy hand, The nobleft boxer on the Britifn ftrand : His nervous arm each bold oppofer quell'd, In feats of ftrength by none but thee excell'd ; Till, fpringing up, at thelaft trumpet's call, He conquers thee, who wilt have conquer'd all. Tuxford ftands in the poft-road between London and York, at the diftance of one hundred and thirty-one miles from London. Great part of it was burnt down on the eighth of September 1702. The fituation is in a miry, clayifh country, and the buildings are mean. Here, however, is a good free-fchool, built by Charles Reed, and endowed with fifty pounds a year, foramafter and uflier, twenty pounds a year for the boarding and teaching four boys, the fons of minifters, or decayed gentlemen ; and twenty pounds more for teaching the poor boys of the town. The mayor and aldermen of Newark, and fix other neighbouring gentlemen, are truftees for this charity. In the thirty-firft year of Edward III. John de Lung- vilers gave an advowfon to the priory of Newfted, on condition that they fhould find five chauntry priefts, three of which were to be fettled in the town of Tuxford, and two in their own conventual church. This town has a weekly market on Monday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-fifth of September, for horfes and pigs ; and the twelfth of May, for cattle, fheep, and pigs, and like wife for millinery. At Broadholm, on the borders of Lincolnfhire, eaft of Tuxford, Agnes de Camvile, wife of Peter Gonna, founded a priory, confifting of a priorefs and nuns of the Premonftratenfian order, about the end of the reign of king Stephen. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and had polfeffions valued, upon the diflblution, at fixteen pounds five fhillings and two-pence per annum. Eaft of Tuxford, at a place called Cliftan, upon the Trent, a fmall college for a warden and three priefts was begun by Sir Robert, and finifhed by his fon, Sir Ger- vafe ■"N O T T I N G H A M S H I R E. 391 Vale de Clifton, in the time of Edward IV. It was dedicated to the Trinity, and valued, upon the diffolu- tion, at twenty-one pounds two (hillings and fix-pence per annum. Redford-Eaft took the name of Red ford from a ford here over the river Idle, upon which it ftands, and had the addition of Eaft from its fituation on the eaft bank of that river, and to diftinguifh it from another Redford, fituated on the oppofite hank, and therefore called Weft Redford. It is fituated at the diftanceof one hundred and thirty- five miles from London, among large plantations of hops, in which, and barley for malt, it carries on a great trade. King Edward I. granted this town in fee-farm to the burgdfes, with power to chufe bailiffs for its go- vernment. King Henry III. granted it a fair for eight days, which has long been discontinued. They had other privileges from feveral of our kings, particularly of being exempted from tolls, and all foreign fervices, holding pleas for any fums, &c. King James I. incor- porated it anew by the names of Bailiffs and Burgefies, and appointed it to be governed by cwo bailiffs, a fteward, and twelve aldermen, to make a common council for the town. The two bailiffs, who are diftinguifhed by fenior and junior, are chofen on the firft of Auguft, and enter into their office on the twenty-ninth of Sep- tember ; the fenior being chofe from among the alder- men, and the junior from the freemen, who have been chamberlains. Thefe bailiffs, and the fteward, who is generally fome perfon of quality, are to be jufticcrs of the peace and quorum within the borough. They have likewife two chamberlains, a town-clerk, and two fer- jeants at mace. Here is a free grammar-fchool, and a good town-hall, in which are held the feffions for the town, and fometimes for the county ; and under the town-hall are fbambles, the beft in the county. This town is connected with Weft Redford by a good ftone bridge over the Idle; but they are different parifhes; and Weft Redford is remarkable only for an hofpital, founded in 1666, by Dr. Dorrel, and governed bv a mafter and ten brethren, inhabitants of the hofpital, who have each a garden and orchard. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-third of March, and the fecond of October, for horfes and beafts. At Tilney, north of Redford, there was found not long ago a Druidical amulet, confifting of a tranfparent ilone of an aqueous colour, with ffreaks of yellow : there were at the fame time difcovered a Roman ftylus, and feveral cornelians and agates, with engravings and Roman inferiptions. Little Borough, upon the river Trent, about feven miles eaft of Redford, which has been long famous for a ferry over the river into Lincolnfhire, is thought to have been a Roman town, called Agelocum. Several Roman pavements and foundations of ancient buildings have been difcovered on the eaft fide of the town, part of which has been wafhed awav by the river. Roman urns have been dug up here, one of which had the figure of a woman's head upon it. In 1 7 1 8, two altars were found in this place ; and great numbers of Roman coins have from time to time been difcovered here, with many- remains of antiquity. On the eaft fide of the river, over-againft Littleborough, there are ftill to be feen the traces of an ancient camp. Leaving Redford, we continued our journey to Blith, a fmall town on the borders of Yorkfhire, one hundred and forty-four miles from London. It has a capacious church, and an hofpital, called Blith Spittle, built by William de Creffy, lord of Holdefac, and dedicated to St. John the Evangelift. Here was formerly a convent of Benedictine monks, built by Roger de Builly, and A'luriel his wife, about the year 1088. Itiwas dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and was, in fome refpects, fubor- dinate to the abbey of the Trinity, on St. Catharine's Mount, near Rouen in Normandy : it however con- tinued till the general difiblution, when the yearly reve- nues of it amounted to one hundred and thirteen pounds eight {hillings. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and two annual fairs, viz. Holy Thurfday, for horfes and black cattle ; and the fixth of October, for fheep and hogs. At Matterfey, a village in the neighbourhood of Blith, there was a priory of Gilbertine canons, founded by Roger, the Ion of Ranulph d,- Marefay, about the year 1192, and dedicated to St. hfcllen. At the general fuppreffion of religious houfes, its annual revenues amounted to fifty-five pounds two fhiilings and five- pence. Workfop, the next town we vifited, is fituated at the head of a fmall river called the Ryton, one hundred and thirty-three miles from London Here was formerly a priory of Black canons, founded by William de Luvetot, in the reign or Henry I. and dedicated to St. Mary and St. Cuthbert : it continued till the difib- lution of religious houfes, when its annual revenues amounted to two hundred and thirty-nine pounds fifteen fhiilings and five-pence. Workfop has a weekly market on Wednefday, re- markable for great quantities of liquorice and malt ; and three annual fairs, viz. the twentieth of March, the twenty-in ft of June, and the third of October, for cattle, horfes, and pedlars ware. In the neighbourhood of this town is Workfop Manor, a feat belonging to his grace the duke of Norfolk, and long coniidered as one of the fineft in England, con- taining above five hundred rooms ; but in October 1761, it was burnt to the ground, together with a fine library of books, a .curious collection of pictures, and other valuable furniture ; the lofs was computed at one hundred thoufand pounds. At Welbeck, about a mile and a half fouth of Work- fop, there was an abbey for Premonursfcenfian canons, founded in the year 1 153, by Thomas le Flemangh, and dedicated to St. James : it was the chief abbey of this order in England ; and its annual revenues, at the difiblution, amounted to two hundred and forty-nine pounds fix fhiilings and three-pence. At Wallingwells, north of Workfop, Ralph de Capreocuria built and endowed a fmall Benedictine nunnery, in the reign of king Stephen : it was dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary, and value. , on the difiblution, at fifty-eight pounds nine fnillings and ten-pence per annum. Leaving the town of Workfop, we followed the Nottingham road to Mansfield, anciently a roy^l de- mefne, and was formerly honoured with the prefence of our kings, for the pleafure of hunting in Sherwood Foreft, King Henry III. granted the town a market, together with the privilege of houfbote and haybote out of his foreft of Sherwood. It is a large, well-built town, and has a good charity-fchool for thirty-fix boys. By the ancient cuftoms of this manor, the tenants, both men and women, were at liberty to marry : the heirs of eftates were declared to beat full age as foon as they were born ; and the lands were equally divided among the fons ; and, in failure of male iflue, among the daughters. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, well ftocked with corn, malt, and cattle; and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-ninth of June, for black cattle and hogs ; and the fecond Thurfday in Ocfober, for horfes and cheefe. At Ruffbrd, north-eaft of Mansfield, Gilbert, earl of Lincoln, founded an abbey of Ciftertian monks about the year 1148: it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and, upon the difiblution, valued at one hundred and feventy-fix pounds eleven fhiilings and fix-pence per annum . At Felley, a village to the fouth of Mansfield, there was a convent of Black canons, founded about the year 1156, by Ralph Brito, and his (on, Reginald deAnneiley. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and continued till the difiblution, when it was inhabited by fix reli- gious ; and the annual revenues were valued at forty pounds nineteen fhiilings and a penny. At another village, called Newfted, fituated to the fouth of Mansfield, there was a priory of Black canons, built about the year 1170, and dedicated to the Virgin Marv. 0 S9 e NOTTINGH Mary. At the difiblution, its annual revenues amounted to one hundred and fixty-feven pounds -fixteen fhillings and eleven-pence. Bingham, the next town wevifited, is fituated to the fouthward of the Trent, one hundred and eight miles from London. It is but a fmall town, but has a charity- fchool, and a parfonage of great value, in the gift of Jhe earl of Chefterfield, who is lord of the manor. Here was formerly a college, dedicated to St. Mary, the annual revenues of which were valued, on the diflb- lution, at forty pounds eleven (hillings. Bingham has a weekly market on Thurfday, and three annual fairs, viz. the twentieth and twenty-firft of February, for draught horfes , the firft Tuefday in May, for hunters, black cttle, fheep, and hogs j and the eighth of November, for colts and hogs. At Eaft Bridgeford, north of Bingham, on the Fcfie- way, there are frill the remains of a Roman ftation, and where a great variety of Roman coins and other anti- quities have been found. At Shelrord, about two miles north-weft of Bingham, Jhere was a priory of Auguftine monks, founded by Ralph Hanfelyn, in the reign of Henry II. Jt was dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; and not long before the fupprefllon, was inhabited by twelve canons, who were endowed with yearly revenues amounting to one hundred and fifty-one pounds fourteen fhillings and a penny. At Sibthorp, a village north-eaft of Bingham, there is a church dedicated to St. Peter; and in this church a chapel dedicated to St. Mary, where a chauntry of fe- yeral priefts was founded by Geoffrey le Scroop in the A M S H I R E. reign of Edward II. and in the fucceeding reign, this chauntry was raifed to a confiderable collegiate body, confifting of a warden, and eight or nine chaplains, with three clerks, and other officers, bv Thomas le Sibthorp, reclor of Eeckingham, in Lineplnfhite". This collegiate body continued till the difiblution, when their annual revenues were valued at thirty-one pounds, one fhillings and two-pence. Curious Plants found is Nottinghamfhire. Purple creeping Mountain Pink ; Caryophyllata repent rubra, f. B. found plentifully by the way-fide of a fandy hill, in the road leading from Linton to Not- tingham. Common Englifh Liquorice ; Glycyrrblza vulgaris^ Ger. This vegetable is planted and cultivated for Tale, near the town of Workfop. White wild Catrhfly ; Lychnis fylvcjlrls alba nona Clufti, Ger. found on r.he walls of Nottingham Caftle, and in the adjacent grounds. Hoary Mullein with fmall flowers ; Verbafcum pulue- rulentum flare luteo parvo } J. B. found about Wollaton- hall. Members of Parliament for the County of Nottingham. This county fends eight members to parliament j two knighjs of the fhire for thr county ; and two burgefies for each of the boroughs of Nottingham, Eaft-Redford, and Newark. THE END OF THE FIRST VOLVME, ENGLAND DISPLAYED. BEING A New, Complete^ and Accurate Survey and Defcription OF THE KINGDOM of ENGLAND, AND PRINCIPALITY of WALES. CONTAINING, I. A full and ample Account of whatever is remark- able in every COUNTY, City, Town, Village, Hamlet, ami Parifh in England and Wales. II. Defcription of the various Manufactures and other tifeful Arts eftablifhed in different Parts of this Kingdem. III. Accounts of the Nature and Produce of the vari- ous Kinds of Land, with a complete Hiftory of the modern Improvements in Agriculture, Gardening, csV. IV. An hiftorical Account of all the Forts, Caftles, Roman Military Ways, Docks, Harbours, Creeks, Bays, &c. with the Particulars of their ancient and prefent State. V. A full Defcription of all the natural and artificial Curiofities of this Kingdom ; fuch as Rocks, Mines, Caverns, Lakes, Grottos, Foffils, Minerals, Abbeys, Cathedrals, Churches, Palaces, and the Seats of the Nobility and Gentry. VI. A faithful Narrative of all Improvements made in the Roads, Rivers, and Canals of this Kingdom, for the Convenience of Travelling, and the Benefit of In- land Navigation. The whole forming fuch an accurate and comprehen- five Account of this Country, as has never yet been pub- lilhed, and will be equally entertaining and inftru&ive. By a SOCIETY of GENTLEMEN: Each of whom has undertaken that Part for which his Study and Inclination has more immediately qualified him. The Particulars refpecling England, revifed, corrected, and improved, By P. RUSSELL, Efq; And thofe relating to Wales, By Mr. OWEN PRICE. Hijhria vera ieftis temporum, lux veritatis, vita memories, magijlra vita. Cic. de Orat. Lib. ii. § g. VOL. II. 7&V t^e ling's &utyorit£. » LONDON: Printed for the AUTHORS, by Adlard and Browne, Fleet-Street: And fold by S. Bladon, No. 28, T.Evans, No. 54, and J. Coote, No. 16, in Pater-nofter Row 5 W. Domville, and F. Blythe,. at the Royal Exchange. M D C C L X I X. ■3 4 ■•*V| «o* **C»* -vr> «j£> Nfli* *ei>* \t,-v aaaaaaaaaHBaaaaaaaaB @@@a ** aeaa «■$» «>3». k2»p »<5. «, a final'! town on the caft of Aftiby de la Zouch, there is a mineral fpring* called Griffy-dam • and fome coal mines, which, in the reign of king Henry VIII. burnt lb many years together, till the fulphiifeous and bituminous matter which fed the flame was exhaufted. At Breedon on the Hill, upon the borders of Dcrbv- fhire, north-eaft of Afhby de la Zouch, there is a church which is dedicated to St. Mary and St. Hardiiif, and was given by Robert Ferrers, carl of Nottingham, about the year 1144, to the monaftery of St. Olwald at Nofthell, or Noftel-hall, near WVicefield, a marjfcet- town of Yorkfhire ; upon which here was a eel; of Black canons, fubordinate to that monaftery, confiding of a prior and five religious. Its revenues, upon the difTolu-* tion, were rated at twenty-four pounds ten (hillings and four-pence per annum. At Charley and Ulvefcrofs; two folitary places in the foreft of Churnwood, fouth-caft of Afnby de la Zouch there were fettled in each three Friars Heremites, by Robert Blanchmains, earl of Leicefter, in the time of Henry II. but by the confent of the earl of Winchefter, patron of both houfes, in the time of king Edward U. they were united at Ulvefcrofs, where continued a priory of regular canons, of the order of St. Auftin, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, till the time of the diffolution, when there were eight religious in it, who were endowed with eighty-three pounds eleven (hillings and fix-pence per anuum. North-eaft of Afhby de la Zouch, at a place called Langley, William Pantulph, and Rurgea his wife, in the beginning of the reign of king Henry II. or before, built a priory for Benedicline nuns, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the yearly revenues of which were rated, on the fuppreifion, at twenty-nine pounds feven (hillings and four-pence. There was a houfe, with lands, belonging to the Knights Hofpitalers, at Heather, fouth-caft of Afhby dela Zouch, the gift of Ralph de Grifely, before the firft year of king John. It had a diftinct preceptory for fome time, and afterwards was accounted part of the preceptory of Dalby. The valuation of this preceptory, about the time of the diffolution, is faid to have amounted to thirty-nine pounds one (hilling and five-pence per annum. A roll of the fifth of Henry III. quoted by Mr. Burton, fays, that at Caftie Dunnington, north of Afhby de la Zouch, upon the borders of Derbyfhire, " there was an " hofpital erected by J. fomctime conftable of Chcfter, " of which Humphrey the chaplain was mafter; and " that there ought to be in it thirteen brothers and " fillers, but that they had no regular habit, nor ob- " ferved any rule, but received a portion of the tithes " of the parifti." The founder appears to have been John Lacy, conftable of Chefter in tiie time of Henry II. it was dedicated to St. John the Evangclift, and valued at three poflnds thirteen (hillings and four-pence per annum. Bofworth, the next town we vifited, is pleafantly fituated in a wholefome air and fruitful f - vice ; but going with the queen into France, he killed the brother of lord Crofts in a duel, on horfaback, for which he was expelled that couit. In confequence of this difgrace, he went to feaj was taken by a Turkifh pirate;' and after having remained a Have in B.arbary feveral years, was redeemed, and came to England, where he lived many years upon penfions from the duke of Buckingham, and other noblemen ; but being a Papift, he was, in 1678, upon fufpicion of being con- cerned in Oates's plot, taken up, and committed pri- foner to the Gatehoufe in Weftminfter, where he lay a confiderable time, but was at laft difcharged, and died in 1682, at the age of fixty-three. There is an ancient cuftom ftill preferved at Okeham, which requires, that every peer of the reahn, the firifc time he comes within the precincts of this brdlhip, fhall forfeit a fhoe from the horfe he rides on, or from one of his coach-horfes, if he be in a carriage, to the lord of the caftie and manor ; if he reful'e, the bailiff" of the manor has power to ftop his coach, and take one off from one or other of the horfes, unlefs he agrees to redeem it with money ; in which cafe, a fhoe is made according to his directions, and ornamented, "in pro- portion to the fum given, by way of fine, and nailed to the caftie hall door. Some fhoes are of curious work- manfhip, and ftamped with the names of the donors : fome are made very large, and fome gilt. Over the judge's feat, where he fits at the affizes, there is one of very curious workmanfhip ; it is five feet and a half in length, and of a proportionable breadth. The ancient lords of the place were of the family of Ferrers, the arms of which are three horfe-fhoes ; and the name Ferrers is derived from the Latin Fcrrarius, which fignifies A Worker in Iron, or a Smith, and fuch are Farriers, the fhoe-makers for horfes. As the ancient lords, therefore, muft be fuppofed to have hasl a right of exacting fome forfeiture upon enter- ic ing io RUTLANDSHIRE. ing their m?.nor, as an acknowledgment of their right, the name and arms will account for making the for- feiture in this place a horfe-fhoe. Okeham has a weekly market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, viz. the fifteenth of March, for horned cattle and fheep ; the fixth of May, for cattle, and a fliew of ftonc-horfes ; and the eleventh of September, for horfes and fwine. Market Overton, a village three miles diftant from this town, is fuppofed to have been the Roman ftation, called by Antoninus Margedunum. That this was a Roman ftation, feems pretty certain, from the number of Roman coins that have at different times been dug up here; and that it was a Margedunum, is conjeclured from the exact correlpondence of the diftance between this place and other Roman {rations, as laid down in the Itinerary, as well as from the etymology of the name ; Marglcluniim being fuppofed to have been de- rived from the ancient word Marga, which fignifies Limejlone, a fort of marie or ftony fubftance, with which this place fo abounds, that the inhabitants ma- nure their ground with it. At Ketton, a village fouth-eaft of Okeham, there is a rent collected yearly from the inhabitants, by the IherifFof the county, of two (hillings, pro ocreis regina, that is, for the queen's boots. The occafion of this tax does not appear. There was formerly an alien priory of Benedictine monks at Edywefton, fouth-eaft of this town, cell to the abbey of St. George at Banguervil, in Normandy, to which it was given by William de Tankervill, cham- berlain to Henry I. About the fourteenth year of Richard II. it was conveyed to the Carthufians of Co- ventry, a city of W arwicklhire. South of this town, at a place called Brook, there Vvas a fmall priory of regular canons, of the order of St. Auguftine. founded by Hugh Ferrers, in the time of king Richard I. It was fubordinate to the monaftery of Kenelworth, near the city of Coventry, in Warwick- ihire, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Its revenues, on the fuppreflion, were valued at forty pounds per annum. At Manton, fouth-eaft of this town, there was a chauntry or college, founded about the twenty-fifth year of Edward III. Here alfo appears to have been an hofpital ; but no farther particulars relative to either houfe are known. In the neighbourhood of Okeham is an elegant feat belonging to the earl of Exeter, called Burley on the Hill, overlooking the Vale of Catmos. It was erected by John lord Harrington, but was indebted for firft im- provements to George Villiers, duke of Buckingham, who made it one of the fineft feats in England. There was a garrifon in it in the time of the civil wars ; but on the army's being at too great a diftance to fupport it, as foon as the king's forces came, they quitted it, after letting fire to the houfe and furniture, which was re- markably rich. The ftables, however, being at fome diftance from the houfe, efcaped, and remain to this day one of the nobleft buildings of the kind in England. It lay, many years after the reftoration, in ruins, till the late earl of Nottingham rebuilt it at a great expence, and made it more beautiful and convenient than ever. It has a park, walled in, of five or fix miles in compafs, with fine woods in it, rich pafture, and ftore of game. The gardens are fine, the paintings good, and the library fuperior to moft, and inferior to none. Thefe, and many other a dvantages, give it a place among the principal feats in England, and renders it in particular the grace and ornament of this county. Leaving Okeham, we paffed on to Uppingham, the fecond town in the county, and the only remaining one ■which has a market. It is fituated on a rifing ground, from wheoce it derives its name, at the diftance of eighty- ' , feven miles from London ; and is a neat, compact, well- • built, modern town, with an hofpital and a free fchool, both founded in 1584, by Mr. Johnfon, the founder of : the free-fchool of Okeham. The ftandard of the weights and meafures for the county, was, by a ftatute of Henry VII. appointed to be kept in this town. Its church is a rectory, of which the bifhop of London is patron. The Brand here is noted for horfe-races. Here is a well frequented weekly market on Wednef- day, for cattle and corn ; and two annual fairs, viz. the feventh of March, and the feventh of July, for horfes, horned cattle, and coarfe linen cloth. Curious Plants found in Rutlandshire. Bird's-foot; Ornitopodium majus, Ger. found in the fields near Okeham. Tender ivy-leaved Bell-flower ; Campanula petluftre cymbidar'iee foliis, Ger. found frequently on watery banks of the river Gwafh. Maiden Pinks ; Caryopbillus minor repens nofiras, Ray. Thefe flowers, which the feedfmen call Matted Pinks, grow in plenty on fandy hills near Alefthorp. Water-mint of a fpicy fmell ; Mentha arvenfis verti- cillato folio rotundiore odore aromatico, Ray. This is a very fcarce plant, but found at the foot of the hills near Prefton. Blue fweet fmelling Toad-flax ; Linaria odorata monf- paJJ'ulana, f. B. found in the hedges near Prefton. Roman Nettle ; JJrtica pilutifera femine magna lini, feu urtiea Romana, Ray ; found in fhady ditches near Uppingham. Self-heal ; Prunella vulgaris, Park ; found in pafture grounds near Langham. Wild Thyme ; Thymus fylveftris, Ger. found in great plenty on moft of the downs and upland paftures of this county. Squinancy-wort ; Synanchica Lugdunienfs, Ger. found in feveral parts of the foreft of Liffield. W/ld-ruej Ruta montana, Ger. found in fome parts near Lynden. The later autumnal Gentian, with leaves like centaury ; Gentianella fugax autumnalis elatior centaurii minoris foliis, Park ; a fcarce plant, found near Normanton. Pellitory of the wall ; Parieiaria, Ger. found on old walls in feveral parts of the county. Ofmund Royal ; Tilix fioribus infignis, J. B. found in the boggy parts near the riverGwalh. Male Satyron ; Cynoforchis morio ?nas, Ger. found in the meadows near Uppingham. Female Satyron ; Cynoforchis morio famina, Ger. found in the fame fields with the former. Male Satyrion Royal ; Orchis palmata non maculata, Ray ; found in moift meadows near Empingham. Butterfly, or German Satyron ; Orchis bermapbraditica, Ger. found in the woods near J ; olton. Marfh Marygold ; Caltha paluflris, flare pleno, C. B. found in watery places near Pilton. Greek Valerian, or Jacob's Ladder ; Valeriana Graca, Ger. found in the woods near Flitteris. Self-heal ; Prunella vulgaris. Park ; found in the paf- ture-grounds near Manton. Buckthorn ; Rbamus caibartica, f. B. found frequently in hedges in feveral parts of the county. Wild-rue; Ruta montana, Ger. found on the downs near Alefthorp. Wild Valerian; Valeriana fylvejlris, Ger. found in the hilly parts, and alfo in feveral watery places in this county ; but that found in the higher fituations is efteemed the beft. Members of Parliament for Rutlandlhire. This county fends only two members to parliament, who are knights of the (hire. WARWICK- [ " ] W A R W I C THIS county is bounded by StafTordfhire and Derby- fhire on the north ; by. Gloucefterfhire and Ox- ford/hire on the fouth ; by Worcefterfhire on the weft ; and by Leicefterfhire and Northamptonftiire on the eaft. Iti figure inclines to an oval, extending in length, from north to fouth, thirty-three miles ; from eaft to weft, twenty-fix ; and is one hundred and twenty-two miles in circumference ; in which are five hundreds, one city, thirteen market-towns, and one hundred and fifty-eight parifhes. The town of Warwick, which is fituated nearly in the centre, is eighty-eight miles north-weft of London. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and partly in the diocefe of Litchfield and Coventry, and partly in that of Worcefter. This is one of the five counties which, in the time of the Romans, were inhabited by the Cornavii, of whom mention will be made in the account of Chefhire ; and under the Saxon heptarchy, it was part of the kingdom of Mercia. Of the ancient military ways of the Romans, three pafs through this county ; Watling-ftreet, Ikenild- ftreet, and the FofFe-way; and upon <-ach of thefe, which are {till vifible in many places, there have been difcovered feveral confiderable remains of Roman an- tiquity. Watling-ftreet parts this county from Leicefterfhire ; Ikenild-ftreet paffes through it, along the borders of Worcefterfhire, into StafTordfhire ; and the Fofie-way crofting Watling-ftreet out of Leicefterfhire, at a place now called High-Crofs, and formerly the Benones of the Romans, as has been mentioned in the account of Leicefterfhire, runs fouth-weft through Warwickfhire, into Glocefterfhire. RIVERS. The moft confiderable rivers of Warwickfhire are the Avon and the Tame. The Avon, which is navigable by barges to Warwick, and which runs through this county from north-eaft to fouth-weft, and divides it into two unequal parts, will be defcribed in the account of Glocefterfhire ; and the Tame will be noticed among the rivers of StafFordfhire. Other lefs confiderable ftreams in this county are, the Anker, the Arrow, the Alne, the Learn, the Swift, and the Stour. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Warwickfhire. The only navigable river in this county is the Avon, the navigation of which is extended o Warwick : but a navigable canal is now making, which is to extend from the city of Coventry, by Nuneaton, Atherftone, and Tamworth, to Fradley Heath near Litchfield, and there to communicate with the StafFordfhire navigation, which is to conneft the Trent and the Merfey. An- other canal is intended to be cut from Coventry, by Warwick, to Strat'brd, there to communicate with the navigation of the river Avon. A navigable canal is alfo now making from the Coventry canal, already mentioned, to the city of Oxford ; particulars of which have been already given in our account of Oxfordfhire. Thefe canals, when finifhed, will be of the greateft impoitance to this county, as they open a communi- cation with many parts of the kingdom. Air, Soil, and Natural Productions. The air of Warwickfhire is mild, pleafant, and healthy; the foil rich and fruitful. It is divideJ by the Avon into two parts, the Feldon and the Woodland : the name Fehhn fignifies a champa'm country : the divifion lies K S H I R E. fouth of the Avon, and produces excellent corn and pafture. The Woodland, which is the largeft of the two divifions, lies north of that river, and affords plenty of timber ; but the iron-works in the adjacent countries have in fo great a degree confumed the wood, that they have long fince made way for the plough ; and at pre- fent, by the afliftance of marie, and other good con- trivances, all this part yields abundance of corn and pafture. The chief commodities of this county are, corn, malt, wool, wood, iron, coal, and cheefe : the latter of thefe articles is equal, if not fuperior to that of any county in England. Remarks on the Husbandry of Warwickfhire. The foil of this county is various, confifting of light loams, fand, and cold, ftifF, fpungy clays. The average rent is about twenty fhillings an acre : there is fome arable that lets at thirty fhillings, and fome meadows fo high as three pounds. Farms from fifty to two hundred pounds a year, courfes, 1. Turnips 2. Barley 3. Peafe 4. Wheat 5. Barley 6. Clover two or three years, and then fome add 7. Wheat on one earth. Alfo, L. Fallow 2. Wheat 3. Oats 4. Clover and rye-grafs. They plough four times for wheat, fow two bufhels- on cold lands before Michaelmas ; and gain, upon an average, twenty-eight bufhels. For barley they ftir three times, fow three bufhels and a half in March or April, and gain, upon an average, thirty-five ; fixty have been gotten. They ftir but once for oats, fow four bufhels before barley feed-time ; the mean crop thirty-fix. They likewife give but one ploughing for peafe, fow three bufhels and a half, or four ; never hoe them, and get thirty in return. For rye they plough twice, fow two bufhels and a half ; the crop twenty. For turnips they give three ploughings ; do not hoe them ; the average value thirty fhillings per acre ; ufe them chiefly for fhcep. Clover they fow with barley or oats ; mow the firft crop, of which they get three ton of hay per acre, and graze it afterwards. Many farmers- mix trefoile with it. Some few tares fown, for feeding horfes with, green. Very few potatoes. Lime is the principal manure ; they lay one waggon- load per acre ; formerly they had as much as they could carry for nine or ten fhillings, but now only fixty bufhels for thirteen or fourteen millings : they ufe it for turnips, and find it anfwers beft on light land : fome few farmers mix earth with it. Draining is pretty well underftood here, and that chiefly owing to the excellent example of lord Littleton, who , ordered many drains tp be dug of various depths, and three or four inches wide at bottom, The method ufed in filling them 011 grafs land (where they were chiefly made) was to take the firft fpit of turfs, and wedge them into the drains, and then throw in the moulds, without ftone, wood, or any thing ; and the drains thus made have flood exceedingly well, and never yet failed. It is an excellent contrivance, and highly worthy of imitation, and efpecially in countries where ftones and wood are fcarce. The t2 W A R W I C K S H I R E. The common farmers alfo drain their morally lands | in a very effectual manner, by cuts a yaid wide at top, fixteen inches at bottom, and four feet deep ; they fill up eighteen inches deep, with logs of wood and faggots, arid then the moulds. The coll: of thefe drains, is one (hilling, the perch of eight yards. x The improvement is extremely great ; they make land of five (hillings an acre worth thirty {hillings at once. They flack their hay at home ; and fome few have got into the way of chopping their ftubbles ; convinced not only of the importance of littering cattle well, but alfo of raifing large quantities of manure. Good grafs land lets in general from two to three pounds an acre, and is ufed moftly for dairying ; but the country, however, is chiefly in tillage. An acre will fummer-feed a cow, or keep feven fheep. They univerfally water their grafs fields whenever it can be done, which they find the greateft improvement of all. Their breed of cattle is the long horns. The product of a cow they reckon fix pounds, or fix pounds ten {hil- lings. They ufed to be let at three pounds rent, but now it is much higher. The average quantity of milk, four or five gallons. To three cows they generally keep two pigs ; and feven they reckon the proper number for a dairy-maid. Barley draw is the winter food till Candlemas, then fome hay, of the latter about a ton to a cow. Th^tare kept all winter in the farm-yard, the fummer joiflPW two {hillings a week. The calves fuck in general four or five weeks. The flocks of fheep rife from forty, to four, five hundred, and z thoufand, on commons. The profit in inclofures, they reckon doubling their money, or about ten or twelve {hillings a head, and on the commons about two {hillings, or two {hillings and fix-pence. There is no folding. The average fleece about one pound and a half, or two pounds, fells at one {hilling a pound. In their tillage, they reckon feven horfes neceffary for a hundred acres of arable land. They ufe three at length in a plough with a driver, and do an acre a day. PRICE OF LABOUR. In harveft and hay-time, one {hilling, and board. In winter, one fniiling, and beer. Reaping, five {hilling: and fix-pence, to fix {hillings per acre. Mowing corn, one (hilling and fix-pence. grafs, two (hillings, to two (hillings and fix-pence. ThrefiYing wheat, three-pence halfpenny per bufhel. barley, two-pence. oats, three half-pence. peafe, two-pence. Manufactures. The city of Coventry, in this county, has a manu- facture of tammies and ribbands ; and Birmingham, a market-town, is famous for the manufacture of fmall iron and fteel ware. City, and Market Towns. The city is Coventry ; and the market-towns are, Atherfton, Aulcefter, Birmingham, Poitford, Colefhill, Henly; Kineton, Nuneaton, Rugby, Stratford, Sutton Cofield, and Warwick. We entered this county from Oxfordfhire, at Mol- lington, following the road to Kineton ; and paffed through Warmington, where was an alien priory of Benedictine monks, fubject to the abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul de Pratellis, in Normandy, to which the church and manor of this place was given, by Henry Newburgh, carl of Warwick, in the time of king Henry 1. Near this place, at the end of the hills, is a large fquare military intrenchment, of about twelve Merc?, where a brazen fword and battle-ax were dug up iomc years ago. Kineton is by fome fuppofed to be called Kine-Town, from its market for black cattle ; others are of opinion, that it was called King's-Town, from having been in poffeffion of the kin^s of England, particularly of Ed- ward the Confeffor, and William the Conqueror. King John kept his court here ; under which, at the foot of the hill, there is a fpring, which to this day is known by the name of King John's Well. This town has nothing' in it deferving particular notice. Its diftance from London is eighty-nine miles. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. St. Paul, the twenty-fifth of January, for feed and corn ; St. Luke, the eighteenth of October, for cattle and cheefe. At Shuckborough, north-cad of this town, the aflorites orftar-ftones are frequently found. In the neighbourhood of this town, to the fouth of it, is Edgehill, famous for the firfi battle between the forces of king Charles I. and the parliament, in the year 1642. It is called the Vale of the Red Horfe, from the rude figure of a horfe cut out upon a red foil on the fide of a hill, and fuppofed, like the white horfe in Berk(hire, to have been a Saxon monument. The trenches, which form this figure are trimmed and kept clean by a free- holder in the neighbourhood, who enjoys his lands by that fervice. At Miton, not far from Kmeton, there appears to have been a collegiate church or chapel, with feveral fecular canons, before the end of the rcitrn of kino- Henry I. North-weft of Kineton, at a place called Thelesford, William de Cherlecote, in the time of king John, founded a church ^nd hofpltal for Maturines, or friars of the order of the Trinity, towards the redemption of captives. This foundation was dedicated to St. John . the Baptift, and St. R.adegund ; and valued, upon the fuppreffion, at twenty-three pounds ten (hillings per annum. Southam is a fmall, well-accommodated town, in the road from Banbury to Coventry. It (lands at the diftance of feventy-eight miles from London, and belonged for- merly to the monks of Coventry. Here is a charity- fchool, but nothing elfe worthy notice. This town has a weekly market on Monday, and an annual fair on the tenth of July, for horfes, cows, and (heep. Leaving this place, we paffed on to Rugby, fituated upon the river Avon, at the diftance of feventy-fix miles from London. Here was formerly a fmall caftle, fup- pofed to have, been built in the reign of king Stephen ; and the inhabitants have a tradition, that it was Sir Henry Rokeby's caftle, who gave fome lands here to the abbey of Pipwell. Here is a grammar-fchuol, with fouc alms-houfes, founded in the reign of queen Elizabeth, by Laurence Sheriff, a haberdafher of London. H^re is likewife a charity-fchool for teaching and cloathing thirty poor children ; and an alms-houfe, for maintain- ing fix poor widows, built and endowed by Richard Eiborow of this place, in 1707. But this town is chiefly remarkable for the number of butchers it contains. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and three an- nual fairs, viz. the fifteenth of May, for cattle ; the twenty-firft of Auguft, and the twenty-fecond of No- vember, for horfes, cows, fheep, and cheefe. King's Newham, near this town, is remarkable for three medicinal fprings, the water of which is ftrongly impregnated with a burn of a milky colour, and efteemed an excellent remedy for the ftone. It is obferved of this water, that being drank with fait, it is aperient; but with fugar, reftringent. North-weft of this town, at a place called Comb, • Richard deCamvilla, in the year 1150, founded a Cif- tertian abbey, dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; in which were thirteen or fourteen religious, who, upon the gene- ral diffolution, were endowed with three hundred and eleven pounds fifteen (hillings and a penny per annum. At Bretford upon Avon, likewife north-weft of this town, Jeftery de Clinton, in the reign of king Henry II. founded a fmall cell of two or three Black nuns ; but it- was foon afterwards annexed to Kencleworth priory. Here was alio a kind of hofpital, or chape], dedicated to St. Edmund, Coventry, Coventry, the next place we vifited, is pleafantly fituated in a fertile country, ninety miles from London. A famous convent of nuns flourifhed here in the time of the Saxons, under the government of St. Ofburgh, which was deftroyed by the Danes in 1016. But about the year 1043, Leofric, earl of Mercia, and his lady, Godiva, founded a noble abbey here for an abbot and twenty-four Benedictine monks, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, St. Peter, and St. Ofburgh. Upon the vacancy of an abbot, in 1095, Robert de Limefy, bifhop of Litchfield and Chefter, obtained not only the cultody of the abbev, but alfo leave to remove his epifcopal fee hither; and in confequence of that removal, this mo- naftery became a cathedral priory ; and the prior and convent formed one of the chapters to the bifhop of this diocefe, many of whom ftiled themfelves bifhops of Coventry only. After a few years, however, the fee returned back to Litchfield, but on condition that the bifhops fhould take their title from both places ; and accordingly they have ever fince been ftiled the Bifhops of Litchfield and Coventry. The above Leofric feems to have been the firft lord of this city, and his lady its greateft benefaaor : for there is a tradition, which is firmly believed at Coventry, that her hufband being offended with the citizens, laid heavy taxes on them, which his devout lady Godiva, who was the daughter of Thorold, a fheriff of Lincolnfliire, earneftly importuned him to remit ; but could not prevail, unlefs fhe would confent to ride, naked through the moft frequented parts of the city. The earl was fo fully convinced of her modefty, that he was jure this was a condition fhe would never comply with ; but in compaffion to the city, fhe undertook it ; and as the tradition fays, after having ordered all the doors and windows to be {hut, upon pain of death, fhe rode through the ftreets on horfeback naked, with her loofe hair about her, which was fo long, 'that it covered all her body but her legs. We r.-. I in Camden, that nobody looked at her ; yet it is f ud elfewhere, that a poor taylor would be peeping, and was (truck blind. Be this as it will, this figure is put up in the fame window to this day. The pictures, both of *e earl and his countefs, were fet up in the windowsof Trinity-church, with this infeription : 1 Wltl %3^Tfead I Lurick, for the love of thee* Do fet Coventry toll-free. The inhabitants, in commemoration of this their great patronefs, have a yearly proceffion through the town, with the figure of a naked woman on horfeback. We read, that the earl and his wife were buried in the two porches of the monaftery. After Leofric's death, which was in the thirteenth of \Edward the ConfefTor, this city came into the poffeffion of the earls of Chefter, who granted the fame privileges to Coventry that Lincoln enjoyed, and gave a great part of the city to the monks. It was afterwards annexed to the* earldom of Cornwall, and began to flourifh very much : it had divers immunities and privileges from feveral kings; efpecially Edward III. who granted it a mayor, and^ two bailiffs ; and Henry VI. who having laid feveral towns and villages to it, granted by his charter, that it " fhould be an intire county incorporate " by itfelf in deed and name, and diftincl: from the << county of Warwick and that the bailiffs of the faid city fhould be fheriffs of the county of the city for ever ; yet ft ill to continue to officiate as bailiffs in the city ; and fhould hold a monthly court within their liberties, like the fheriffs of other counties.; Now it was that the citizens began to inclofe it with walls. Edward IV. for its difioyalty, took the fword from the mayor, and feized the citizens liberties and franchifes, which they redeemed with five hundred marks : buut he was fo well reconciled about four years after, that he kept St, George's feaft here, and ftood godfather to the mayor's child. King James 1. granted it a charter, by which ten aldermen were to prefide over ten wards of the city, who were to be iuftices of the peace within the city, and its county. After the reiloration of Charles II. the walls and towers were demoiifhed, and only the gates left handing, which are very noble and beautiful, The 44 Prince of Wales has a large park and domain here, but very ill kept, the park being ufed for horfe-races. Two remarkable parliaments were formerly held in this ci y, ftigmatized in ourhiftory with very fca i^alotu epithets; the one in the r^ign of, Henry IV. calied ParHamnitum IndoP.orum, or the'Unlcarned Parliament, becaufe the lawyers were excluded ; the other in the reign of Henry VI. called Parliamcntum Diabj'icuv:, or the Devilifh Parliament, from the attainders of the duke of York, and the earls of Salifbury, Warwick, and March, and their adherents, and the ruin thereby in- tended to fo many great families. In the reign of Henry VIII. a ftately crofs was erected in the middle of its fpacious market-place, by a legacy of Sir William Hollis, lord mayor of London^ and one of the anceftors of the late duke of Nevvcaftle, which, for its workmarifhip and beauty, is inferior to few in England. It is fixty-fix feet high, and adorned with the ftatues of moft of the Englifh kings, as big as the life. The city is large, populous, and rich ; but the buildings, though many of them are grand enough, are generally old ; and fome of them, which are built of timber, project, fo forward, that in the narrow ftreets" they almoft touch at the top. The chief of its churches are St. Michael's and Trinity church, which, for their architecture, feem to rival each other ; the former is large, and well lighted, but not handfome, its greateft beauty being its high fpire, of excellent workman (hip, and all of ftone, which is about three hundred Feet high, and, it is faid, was nlore than twenty-two years in building. Though here are three parifh-chur :hcs only, there are four lteeples ; for at the fouth end of the town ftaiyjs a tall fpire by itfelf, which is the only remans, of a church that belonged to its monaftery of Orey friars. On the diffolution of the priory, the citizens contended, a good while, that the church, viz. St. Michael's, mi^ht be made collegiate, and called a Cathedra), but it was reduced to a parifh-church, as it is at this day. The Prcteftant diffenters are a confiderable body in this city, there being almoft as many meeting-houfes here as churches. The town-houfe is worth feeing, the win- dows being of painted glafs reprefenting fome of :!Tc old kiivxs, earls, Sec, whp have been benefactors to the city, i Befid es its fheriffs and aldermen, here are a recorder, fteward, coroner, two chamberlains, two wardens, and other officers. It was formerly the Only market-town of this counlrr, at which time it was of greater refort than could be ex- pected from its midland fituation, and its chief manu- factuie then was cloth and caps, but now both thofa trades are much decayed. Their employment now is in the manufacture of tammies, and the weaving of the ordinary fort of ribbands, efpecially black. Here is a free-fchool, (with a good library) founded by John Hales, Efq; with the name of King Henry VIIl's School, the malter of which is always to be the minifter of Bab- lack's church, which was made parochial by the title of St. John's, purfuant to aft of parliament, anno 1734. Here are alfo a charity-fchool, and an hofpital. Here was an ancient college or hofpital, confifting of a matter or warden, and feveral brothers and filters. It was founded in the beginning of the reign of Henry Ii. chiefly at the expence of Edmund, archdeacon of Co- ventry, dedicated to St. John the Baptift, and valuedj upon the diffolution, at ninety-nine pounds thirteen fhillings and fix-pence a year. On the weft fide of this city, at a place called Spone^ there was an hofpital for lepers, founded in the time of king Henry II. by Hugh Kevelifke, earl of Chefter: it was dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen. In the fouth-weft part of this city there was a houfe of Grey friars, before the year 1234, by Sir John Poultney, knight, lord mayor of London. It was" valued, upon the diffolution, at feven pounds thirteen fhillings and eight-pence per annum. In 1385, king Richard If. founded here a monaftery of Carthulian monks, dedicated to St. Anile, and valued, upon the diffolution, at one hundred and thirty-one pour, is fix fhillings and four-pence per annum. E The The city of Coventry fends two members to parlia- ment, has a weekly market on Friday, and three annual fair?, viz. the fecond of May, for horfes, cows, and deep ; Friday in Trinity-week, for flannels, linen, and woollen : at this fair the lady Godiva is represented on horfeback : and the full; of November, for linen, woollen, and horfes. At Btinklow, fouth-eaft of Coventry, near the Ro- man Fofle-wav, there are tlill to be feen a Roman tu- mulus, and the remains of a fort, which is thought to have been built by the Romans. At Cheftover, eaft of Brinklow, and between the Fofle-way and Watling-ftreet, feveral Roman urns have been found. At Monks Kirby, eaft of Coventry, upon the Fofl'e- Way, are the remains of a Roman ftation, confifting of the foundations of old walls, and Roman bricks ; and here are three or four little hills, which appear to be fe- pulchral monuments of fome military perfons. There was an alien priory at this place, of Benedictine monks, belonging to the abbey of St. Nicholas, at An- giers in France, founded by Gosfred de Wirchia, in rc>77, and dedicated to St. Nicholas. It was annexed by king Richard H. to the priory of Carthufians, in Axholm, in Lincolnfliire. South-eaft of Coventry, at a place called Wolfton, there was a priory of Black monks, belonging to the abbey of St. Peter Super Divam, in Normandy, fuppofed to have been the gift of Roger de Montgomery, foon after the Conqueft. In the reign of Richard I', this priory was fold by the abbey of St. Peter Super 1 Divam e prior and convent of Carthufians near Co- fouth-eaft of this city, Robert de Pillar- Y time of king Henry I. founded a nun- to the Virgin Mary. This houfe con- refs, and three or four nuns, who had re- upon the diflblution, at twenty-two ~x shillings and four-pence per annum. {hell, weft of this city, Roger de Mowbray, 'if king Stephen, founded a commandry or e Knights Templars. Ciftertian abbey at Stanley, near Co- J hither from Redmore in StafFordfhire, i. in the year 1 154. It was dedicated lary, and had about fourteen or fifteen irly revenues rated, on the fupprcflion, and fifty-one pounds and three-pence, on the fouth-eaft fide of this city, in e beg g of the reign of king Edward I. there was a cell fubordinate to the Ciftertian abbey of Stanley. Leaving Coventry, we continued our journey to Nuneaton, which is faid to have been originally called Eaton, a word which, in the ancient Englifh language, fignifies the Water Town, and may have been applied to this place from its fituation on the river Anker. The epithet Nun was afterwards prefixed to the name of Eaton, from a nunnery founded here by Robert BoiTu, earl of Lei- cefter, in the time of Henry II. of the order of Fon- tevrauld : it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Nun- eaton is a large, well built, good town, at the diftance of one hundred miles from London. Here is a good free-fchool, founded by the inhabitants in the reign of Edward VI. who gave to it three clofes of ground in the liberty of Coventry, to be held of the crown, as belonging to the manor of Eaft Greenwich, in foccage. Here is likewife a manufacture of woollen cloth. This town has a weekly market on Saturday, and an annual fair on the fourteenth of May, for horfes, cows, and fheep. At Erdbury, or Ardbury, near this town, Ralph de Sudley, in the time of Henry I', founded a priory of the order of St. Auftin, dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; nnd endowed upon the fuppreflion, when it had a prior, and about fix or (even canons, with ninety-four pounds lix fhillings and a penny per annum. At AlUey, near this place, Sir Thomas de Aftley, in the feventh year of the reign of king Edward III. founded a collegiate church, dedicated to the Aflumption of the Virgin Mary. Ii confifted only of a dean, two prebendaries or canons, an'! three vicars, bcfides clerks and fervants ; and was valued, upon the diflblution, at forty-iix pounds and eight-pence a year. From Nuneaton we parted on to Sutton Cofield, or Coldfield, called Sutton, which is a corruption or con- traction of South-Town, in refpect of its fituation fouth of Litchfield ; and the additional name of Cofield, or Coldfield, is fuppoled to be derived from a remarkable black and barren common which lies, directly weft of it. Ir Hands at the diftance of one hundred and five miles from London, and, notwithftanding the barrennefs of the foil, is delightfully fituatcd among pleafant woods, and in an excellent air. This town was incorporated by king Henry VIII. and is governed by a warden and fociety, confifting of twenty-four members, a clerk of the market, a fteward, and a ferjeant at mace. The warden, for the time being, is coroner within the cor- poration, and no fherifF or bailiff muft interfere within its liberties. Sutton Cofield contains about three hundred and fixty houfes, and the inhabitants are computed at eighteen hundred. Here is a church, dedicated to the Trinity, confifting of a nave, chancel, and two fide-ifles. The ifles were built in the reign of Henry VIII. by John Herman, alias Vefy, bifhop of Exeter, a native of this town. The nave was lately rebuilt ; and at the weft end of the church there is a handfome fquare tower fixty feet high, in which is a deep peal of fix bells, to- gether with a clock and chimes, lately erected. In this church are three vaults, remarkable for the quick con- fumation of the dead bodies therein depofited. Here is alfo a monument, belonging to the family of Jeflbns, fuppofed to be well executed. This town has a gram- mar-fchool, founded by bifliop Vefy, and endowed with an eftate now worth one hundred pounds per annum. The fchool-houfe was rebuilt in an elegant manner in the year 1728. This town has the manor and lordfhip of the parifh, together with a large tract of wafte ground called the Park, which is exceeding ufeful for pafturao-e, and has befides five thouiand pounds worth of wood growing in it. Here is a weekly market on Monday, and two annual fairs, viz. Trinity-Monday, and the eighth of No- vember, for fheep and cattle. Near this town is an old building called the Manor- houfe, which is faid to have been one of the hunting- feats of William the Conqueror. At Polefworth, eight miles from this town, king Eg- bert, about the beginning of the ninth century, founded a nunnery, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, over which his daughter Editha prefided as abbefs ; but fhe beino- afterwards canonized, this monaftery was dedicated to her. It was of the order of St. Benedict, and main- tained an abbefs, and thirteen or fourteen nuns, who, upon the fuppreflion, were poffefled of one hundred and nine pounds fix {hillings and fix-pence a year. After viewing in this place all that was worthy of notice, we continued our route, and entered Birming- ham, called alfo Bremingham, and Bromicham. It is a large, well built, populous town, at the diftance of one hundred and nine miles from London. The upper part of it ftands on the fide of a hill, and of courfe dry, but the lower part is watery. This place is famous for the moft ingenious artificers in all forts of iron and fteel (mall wares, and in the manufactures of fnufF-boxes, buckles, buttons, and other goods of the like kind, which are made here in immenfe quantities, and ex- ported to all parts of Europe. This town is much im- proved of late years by many new buildings. In its neighbourhood are annual horfe-races. Here was formerly an hofpital dedicated to St. Tho- mas, confifting of a prior or warden, and feveral bre- thren It was in being before the thirteenth year of king Edward I. and was valued, upon the diflblution, at eight pounds five millings and three-pence per annum. Birmingham has a weekly market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, viz. Thurfday in Whitfun-week, and the tenth of October, for hard -ware, cattle, flicep, and horfes. A few miles from Birmingham is Hagley, the feat of lord Littleton. The ftructure is an excellent dwelling- houfe ; a vvell-defigned mean between the vaft piles railed W A R w r c K S H I R £. riifcd for magnificence, and thofe fmaller ones, in which convenience is alone conhdcred. The hall is thirty feet fquare : it is ornamented with flames of Venus de Medicis, Bacchus, &c. 6rc. and various bulls : the Hercules's which fupport the cornice of the chimney-piece are heavy : here are likewife bas- felieves, &c. The library, thirty-three by twenty-five, is a good room ; the ceilir a g ornamented with ic rolls of ftucco- work. Here ar< pictures : Richardfon. Pope, and his dog Bounce, Aickman. Thompfon. Gilbert Weft. The drefling-room is twenty-one feet fquare. Van Capen. Poultry. Wotton. Landfcape, fine; but there is a light .on the goats in the corner, which does not feem in unifon with the reft. Jonfon. Lady Littleton, wife of Sir Thomas. Zuccharo. Sir John Littleton. Van Somer. Sir Thomas Littleton. Jonfon. Sir Alexander Temple. Mirevelt. Prince of Orange. Greenhill. Mr. Henry Littleton. Corn. Jonfon. Lady Crompton. Very fine. Ditto. Queen of Bohemia. Ditto. A lady unknown. Dobfon. Prince Maurice. Honthruft. Sir R. Stainmore. In the Crimfon Bed chamber. Le Fevre. Dutchefs of Portfmouth. Reynolds. Lord Littleton. Williams. Mifs Fortefcue, his firft lady. In the beft drefling-room, twenty fquare, an elegant chimney-piece of white marble, the cornice fupported by Ionic pillars ; the ceiling white ornaments in ftucco on a lead-coloured ground. Here are, Vandyke. The three Maries, and a dead Chrift. Exceedingly fine ; admirably grouped ; the colours moft expreflive. Storck. A lea-piece. Lely. A lady unknown. Brughel. A landfcape ; moft minutely expreflive. Unknown. A fea-piece : alfo views of Persfield. Houfeman. Charles II. and Queen. Wotton. A landfcape ; very fine. Glow. Horfes. Cypriani. Arcadian fhepherds. The attitudes and groupes exceedingly pleafing. Colours bril- liant. Viviano. An alto relievo ; fine and fpirited. Lely. L. Gary. Wyck. A battle-piece ; in the ftile of Borgognone. Cypriani. The triumph of Bacchus; a drawing, fine. The Saloon, thirty-fix by thirty. The chimney- piece very beautiful, of Siena and white marble ; the cornice fupported by Ionic pillars. In the centre of the frieze three boys in white marble poliftied, and on each fide a fcroll of white on a Siena ground. Here are, Rubens. The marriage of Neptune and Cybele. The lady is a Rubens figure with a ven- geance, and her attitude difgufting. Vandyke. Earl and countefs of Carlifle ; very fine. Titian. Venus reconciling herfelf to Pfyche. Her figure clumfy, but fomevvhat more delicate than Rubens's : his attitude very expreflive, but not of the fubjecl". Colours fine, but their brilliancy gone off. Baffan. Jacob and his family: prodigious fine : the minute ftrength of expreflion in the figures to the left great. Vandyke. The'royal family. Jervois. Charles I. and his Queen. The drawing-room, thirty-four by twenty two. The chimney-piece fcro'ls of white marble trailed on Siena ; elegant. Lord Bath, by Ramfay, over it, inclofed in ornaments, elegantly carved and gilt. The ceiling an oval; in the centre, Flora, by Cypriani ; and in the corners, the Seafons : her altitude elegant, and die colours pleafing. The glafs frames in this room are elegantly carved and gilt. Slabs of Siena marble. Ramfay. Vanloo. Ditto. Unknown. ■ Earl of Hardwicke. Earl of Chelrerfield. Lord Cobham. Mr. Pelham. The Gallery, eighty-five by twenty-two, in thr-cc divifions, formed by double Corinthian pillars. The chimney-piece, glafs, table frames, and the girandoles carved in black and white. Vandyke. Virgin and child. Very noble : her attitude incomparably fine : the air of her head great : the child noble-. Ditto. Countefs of Bedford. Lely. Mifs Brown. Ditto. Lord Brouncker. The Dining-room thirty-three by twenty-fix. Here are, Zuccharelli. Landfcape ; a water-fall, and bridge; pleafing. Ditto. Another ; water, and a boat. Ditto. Wilfon. Landfcape; ditto. But what at Hagley is moft worthy of notice, is th e grounds, which lord Littleton has difpofed with th e utmoft tafte. The walk from the houfe leads through a wood, by the fide of a purling ftream, which meanders over grafs from out a dark hollow ; you pafs a gufh of water which falls into it, and winding higher up the hill, turn by the fide of another brook, which gurgles through rocky hollow : another gufhing fall, over bits of attracts your notice ; which pafling, you corns Prince of Wales's ftatue. This fpot commands a view of the diftant country over the houfe. Winding from hence through the wood, you look to the left upon diftant grounds, until you come to a feat, inferibed to Thomfon, in thefe lines : Ingenio immortali J ac obi Thomson, Poetae Sublimis. Viri boni ./Ediculam hanc in feceflu quern vivus dilexit, Poft mortem ejus conftructam, Dicat dedicatque, Georgius Littleton. From hence you look down on a fine lawn, and, in front, upon a noble bank of hanging wood, in which appears a temple. To the left a diftant view of Mal- vern hills. From hence pafling a well, called after the patriarch, from which you have a diftant view of a hill over the wood, you enter a grove of -oaks, in which you catch a glance at the caftle, through the trees, on the top of the hill, beautifully rifing out of a bank of wood. Next we came to an Ionic rotunda, inclofed in a beautiful amphitheatre of wood ; it looks down upon a piece of water in the hollow of a grove, at the end of which is a Palladian bridge. The fcene is pleafing. From hence the path winds through a fine wood of oaks, in which is a bench, by the fide of a trickling rill, with this infeription : Inter cun£ta leges, et per cunclabere do£tos, Qua ratione queas traducere leniter cevum, Quid minuat curas, quid tetibi reddat amicum, Quid pure tranquillet, honos an dulce lucellum, An fecretum iter, et fallentis femita vitas. Which r6 W A R W f C Which lines are well fuited to the fequeftred retired fpot in which they are placed. The path then leads, by the ftream, and under the trees, to a fine open lawn in- clofci by wood : at one end an urn inferibed to Pope : A i; e x A'N D'R o Pop k, Poctarum Anglieanorum elegantifiimo, dulcifiimaque. Vitiorum Caftigatori acerrimo,- Sapientiae doctori fuaviffimo. Sacra efto. 1744.. Paffihg two benches, and a flight gufti of water, you rife to the ruined caftle, from the top of which is a vc-;v beautiful view, down upon the woods, lawns, flopes, Sec. and prodigioufly extenfive profpecT:- over the country. Worcefter, Dudley, tbe Clee Hills, are a part of the fcene ; the Wrelcin, at forty miles, and, it is f3id, Radnon-tump, at eighty miles diftance. Following the path, you pais a triangular water, the meaning of which we do not underftand ; and walk down under the fhade of oaks, by the fide of a winding woody hollow, to the feat of contemplation,. Sides Contemplatlonis) Omnia Vanitas. The view is only down into the hollow among the trees. Next we came to the hermitage, which looks down on a piece of water, in the hollow, thickly fhaded with tall trees, over which is a fine view of a diftant country. This water is fomewhat too regular. In the hermitage this infeription : " And may, at laft, my weary age tiieti cjf Mufts. Returning through the grove,'you pafs feveral benches, and arrive at one furrounded by the moft bewitching fcenes : it is a mofs feat, with this infeription : " Ego lauda ruris amceni M Rivos Sc mufco circumlita faxa nemufque." The fpot is totally fequeftered, and might almoft be called the paradife for contemplation to indulge in:, the whole is over-arched with the fhade of tall fpreading trees j it is furrounded with banks of flirubby wood, WARWICKSHIRE. of mofs, and ivy ; the eye cannot wander from the beautiful, in fearch of the fublime ; nor will one figh. ever be heard on this bench, for diftant profpect. In front you look upon a cafcade, breaking from out a per- pendicular bank of ivy, and prefenting to the eye a beautiful fail of tranfparent water, that glitters in this dark grove ; the effect amazingly fine. It takes a na- tural courfe, and breaking over a ground of rock mois and ivy, lofes iffelf among the fhrubs at your feet. To the right is a I weet 'little watery cave of rock mofs, &c. in which is a fmall ftatue of Venus ; the reft of the fcene is a fine dark {hade of wood. Winding up the fide of the hill, you look down on a romantic irriguous woody valley ; hearing the noife of falling water, but feeing none. Coming to a bench, you juft look down to the right on a gufhing ftream half covered with trees ; in front, Venus embofom'd in a fweet hollow of wood. Winding round the fides of the river, you come to the Palladian bridge ; a portico'd temple of the Ionic order ; the view admirably fine. You look full upon a beautiful cafcade, broke into two fheets by a rock, which falls into the water over which the bridge is thrown. A little above this a piece of wild ground is half feen ; and further on, a beautiful lawn, at the end of which a fine green fwelling hill, upon which ftands the rotunda : the line of view to thefe objedts is through a thick tall wood, which gives a folemn brownnefs to the whole fcene, very noble. The infeription : *< Viridantia Tempe, " Tempe qua? fylvae cingunt fuper impendentes." Leaving this exquifite fpot, you turn through a grove by feveral flight water-falls, and come out not far from the houfe. The church ftands in the park, retired, and covered by trees. It is chiefly remarkable for the elegantly fimple monument erected by his lordihip for his beloved Lucy ; on which is this infeription : Luciae Lyttelton. Ex antiquiflimo Fortefcutorum genere ortas Qux annos nata viginti novem. Formae eximiae, indolis optimae ; ingenii maximi ; Omnibus-bonis artibus, literifque humanioribus. Supra aetatem et fexum exeulti. Sine fuperbia, laude florens. Morte immature Vitam pie, pudice, fancte adtam. In tertio puerperio claufit. Decimo nono die Januarii Anno Domini 1746—7. Fleta etiam ab ignotis. Uxori dilectiflimae Quinquennlo felicifiimi conjugii nondum abfoluto. Immenfi amoris ac defiderii hoc qualecunquc monumentum Pofuit Georgius Lyttelton. Adhuc ebeu fuperftes. At in eodem fepulchro ipfe olim fepeliendus. Et per Jefum Chriftum Salvatorem fuum. Ad vitae melioris diuturnum gaudium Lachrymis in aeternum abfterfis Se cum ilia relurrecturum confidehs. Leaving Hagley Park, we proceeded to Colefhill. The name of the town is probably derived from its fitu- ation on the fide of a hill, near the bank of a fmall river called the Cole, over which it has a ftone bridge. It is diftant from London one hundred and three miles ; and has two charity-fchools, and a piece of land called Pater-nofter Piece, on account of its having been given by one of the family of Digby, who was lord of the manor, for encouraging children to learn the Lord's Prayer. In confequence of this donation, all the child- ren in the town are fent by turns, one at a time, every morning tochurch, at the found of the bell, when each kneeling down, repeats the Lord's Prayer to the under matter, and is by him rewarded with a penny. This 4+ town being fituated upon the Ikenild-ftreet, copper . coins of the emperor Trajan have been dug up here. This place has a weekly market on VVednefday, and three annual fairs, viz. Shrove-Monday, for horfes ; the fixth of May, for horfes and cattle j and the fecond of October, for cattle of all forts. At Henwood, fouth of this town, Kittelbern de Langdon, in the time of king Henry II. founded a nunnery of the Benedictine order, dedicated to St. Mar- garet. At the diflblution, here were only a priorefs, and four or five nuns remaining, whofe revenues were valued at no more than twenty-one pounds two fhillings per atmum. On the north -eaft fide of Colefhill, at a place called Makeftoke, Sir William de Clinton, afterwards earl of Huntingdon, in the reign of Edward III. founded a Convent, confiding of a prior and twelve regular canons of the order of St. Auftin, dedicated to the Trinity, the Virgin Mary, St. Michael and All Saints ; and en- dowed, on the fuppreffion, with annual revenues amount- ing to eighty-feven pounds twelve fhillings and three- pence. Leaving Colefhill, we proceeded towards Warwick • and in our way flopped at Kennelworth, where there Was formerly a monaftery, founded by Geoffrey de Clinton, lord chamberlain to Henry I. who alfo built a caftle here, which was encompafted with a chace and park, and the glory of all thrs part of England ; but his grand-nephew fold it to king Henrv III. who granted it to Simon de Montfort, earl of Leicefter, with Eleanor his filter, for her portion j but the caftle being taken by that king in the barons wars, he gave it to the family of Lancafter. At this time came out the edict, which our lawyers call difium de Kenelworth^ by which it was enacted, that all who had taken arms againft the king, fhould pay five years value of all their lands ; an<; of ftone fixteen inches diameter are ftill found h which are fuppofed to have been thrown in flings the wars above-mentioned. King Edward II. w: while kept prifoner here. At the diflblution, the its monaftery was given by king Henry VIII. Andrew Flamock, by whofe daughter it came t Colborn, Efq; who having bought horfes that h: ftolen out of the ftables of the earl of Leiceftc frighted into a furrender of it to the faid earl, w tained a grant of it from queen Elizabeth, w granted him the caftle. He is faid to have laid out lixty thoufand pounds in rebuilding and adornin"- it, and to have entertained that queen and her court here feventeen days, in a moft gay and fplendid manner, with the greateft variety and magnificence of feafts and fhews, there being drank no lefs than three hundred and twenty hogfheads of common beer, which is mentioned only to fliew the largenefs of the royal retinue. From that earl it paffed to Sir Robert, his natural fon, who fold it to Prince Henry, on whofe death^ -without iflue, it came to Prince Charles, who committing the cuftody of it to lord Carey, his eldeft fon, and Thomas Carey, Efq; the inheritance was granted to Lawrence Hide, afterwards created baron of Kenilworth-Caftle, and earl of Rochefter ; but the caftle, in the late civil wars, was demolifhed by thofe who purchafed it of the parliament, in order to make noney of the materials. Before the Conqueft, Kenehvorth was a member of Stoneley, be- ing an ancient demefne of the crown, and had a caftle on the bank of the Avon, in the woods oppofite to Stoneley- abbey, which ftood upon a place called Horn- Hill, but was demolifhed in the wars between kino- Ed- mund and Canute the Dane. The aforefaid earl of Leicefter, who got the grant of the fecond caftle, as above, obtained a market here of queen Elizabeth, for Wednefday, and a fair on Midliimmer-day ; but the former, if not the latter, has been long difufed. Upon a furvey of the caftle before the purchafe of it by Prince Henry, it was feven acres in compafs within the walls, which were in many places from fifteen to twenty feet thick. The caftle and four gatehoufes were all built of hewn free-ftone. By -the caftle-walls runs a pool of one hundred and eleven acres, through which run feveral F pretty W A R W T C K S H I R E. pretty ftreams, abounding both with fifti and fowl. The circuit of the caftle, manors, parks, &c. all to- gether, is nineteen or twenty miles. Warwick, which is the fhire town, and gives name to it, ftands on the Avon, eighty-eight miles from London, on an afcent, which is fo rocky on all fides, that the ways leading to it are all cut through the rock ; but it has rich pleafant meadows to the fouth, and lofty- groves and fpacious parks to the north. It is a town cf" great note, and fuch antiquity, that it is faid to have been founded by Kimbeline, one of the Britifh kings, cotemporary with our Saviour. Be it fo or not, itfeems to have been very eminent in the time of the Romans. Mr. Camden thinks this was their Prafidhan, where, as the Notitia fays, the prefect of the Dalmatian horfe was ported by order of the governor of Britain. The Picls and Scots demolifhed it; and when it was repaired, it was befieged, taken, and garrifoned by Oforius ; after which it was again plundered and laid wafte, till Con- ftantine, father of Uther Pendragon, rebuilt it. It fuf- fered very much after this from the Saxons and Danes j but, anno 911, Ethelfleda, the noble lady of the Mercians, reftored it to that flourifhing ftate in which it was found by the Normans. On the fifth of September 1694, this city was almoft burnt down by ah accidental fire, when the damage was computed at near one hundred thoufand pounds ; but it was after rebuilt with much more magnificence by the liberal contributions of the nation, in purfuance of an act. of parliament ; and the free-ftone for the fuper- ftructure dug from the quarries of the rock on which it is founded. There are four ways leading to it, aniwer- ing the four points, which lead through a rock over a current of water, and to ftreets, which all meet in the centre of the town. The wells and cellars are made in the rock, the defcent to which every way keeps it clean, and it is really a fine town. It is fupplied with water by pipes from fprings, half a mile off, and has a noble ftone-bridge over the Avon of twelve arches. Here is a caftle, ftrong both by art and nature, which in the times of war was of great confequence ; and now a noble and delightful feat of the lord Brook's, as it ufed to be of he earls of Warwick. The rock, on which it ftands, is forty feet from the river, but on the north fide it is even with the town. From its terrace, which is above fifty feet perpendicular above the Avon, there is a pro- fpecl of the river, and a beautiful country beyond it. The apartments are perfectly well contrived, and adorned with many original pictures by Vandyke ; and there is a particular apartment of it not inferior to fome of the royal palaces. We read, that where the caftle ftands, was formerly a cathedral by the name ©f All-Saints ; and that it was the fee of a bifiiop, who was forced to fly to Wales, and never was an epifcopal fee any more Though it is a populous town, it has but two parifh- churches, of which St. Mary's is a beautiful edifice and the greateft part of it, with the lofty tower, is new built. The corporation is governed by a mayor, twelve brethren, twenty-four burgeffes, &c. The town is faid to have taken its name from Warremund, one of the anceftors of the Mercian kings, by whom it was rebuilt betwixt the times of its deftruction by the Saxons and Danes. It was in ancient times a corporation, confift- ing of a mayor, bailiffs and burgeffes, and fent members to parliament as foon as any whatfoever ; but in the firft of Philip and Mary, it was incorporated anew, by the name oi Bailiff and Burgeffes, with a perpetual fuc ceffion, common feal, and twelve afjiftants to the bailiff, called Principal Burgeffes, who fhould have power' to regulate the borough, and to chufe a bailiff, recorder ferjeant at mace, and clerk of the markets, of whom the bailiff and recorder fhould be fole julfices of the peace within the borough. To this charter king James I added, by his letters patent, in the tenth of his reign, that the two ancient burgeffes, for the time being, fhould after it be juflices of the peace within the precinct thereof, together with the bailiff and recorder ■. and that the faid bailiff, and one of the fenior burgeffes, fhould always be of the quorum. As' for the other puMic buildings, they are, a town-houfe of free-ftyne, fup ported by pillars, an hofpital, and three ch.nity-fehools, in which are taught and cloathed fixly-iv/o boys, and forty-two girls. The ftreets are fpacious and regular j and near the town, on the river Avon, lies Guy's Cli : rr, ■ where Guy earl of Warwick is fuppofed to have lived a hermit, after his defeat of the Danifh giant Colebrand, and his ether military exploits. Though his ftory is lb oblcure, that it is very hard to diftinguifh the facts from the falfhood of it, feveral of the earls, his fucceiibrs, called their fons by his name. Guy de Beauchamp busk a chapel and noble tower, and fet up a gigantic ftatue in it eight feet high, to his memory j and his fwerd, and other accoutrements, are ftill fhewn in the caftle, where was formerly a fuit of arras hangings, reprefent- " ing his great actions. A veffel, called his pot, was aha preferved, which ufed to be filled up with good liquor for all comers upon memorable days. This city, as well as Holland in Lincolnfliire, now gives title of Earl to the noble family of Rich, as it did formerly to the family of the Ncvlls, and of Duke to others. The county affizes and general quarter feffions are held at this town. The hoipital above-mentioned is for twelve poor decayed gemlemen, with an alluw- ance-of twenty pounds a year to each, and fifty pounds to a chaplain, and was founded by the earl of Lei- cefter. In the north part of this town was an abbey, defixoyed by the Danes in 1016. A nunnery in this town was alfo deftroyed by the Danes in the fame year. St. Mary's church, in this town, appears to have been more than parochial in the time of William the Conqueror; and about the year 1 123, Roircr earl of Warwick eftablifhed in it a dean and fee ular canons. About the time of the diffolution, here were a dean, five prebendaries or canons, ten. priefts vicars, and fix cho- rifters, who had yearly poffeffions valued at two hundred and forty-feven pounds thirteen fhillings. On the north fide of this town, Henry de Newlmr^h, earl of Warwick, in the time of king Henry f. founded an hofpital or priory of canons rcguiar, dedicated to die Holy Sepulchre, and of that order. About the time of the general diffolution, here was a priory, and two or three religious, endowed with forty-one pounds tea fhillings and two-pence per, cumum. Here was an hoipital, founded by Pvoger earl of War- wick, in the time of king Henry I. for a m after and warden, and feveral leprous brethren : it was dedicated to St. Michael, and had revenues valued, upon the diftb- iution, at no more than ten pounds one {billing and eight-pence per annum. The fame Roger earl of Warwick is faid to have founded here a houfe of Templars, which was certified, in the nineteenth year of Edward II. to be of the annual value of fourteen pounds fix fhillings and eight-pence. In the north eaft part of this town was an hofoitji}, founded in the time of king Henry II. by William earl of Warwick, chiefly for the entertainment of ft ranger* and travellers : it had alfo a mailer or warden, nro chaplains, and tw'o poor perfons; and was valued, upon the diffolution, at twenty "pjur.ds three fljdlungs per annum. The fame earl is alfo faid to have founded in this town another hofpital, dedicated to St. Thomas; but there are no particulars concerning it on record.. An houfe of White friars is* faid to have been built here by John Peyto, junior, about the eighteenth year of Edward III: In the time of king Edward II. here was founded a college of four priefts. Warwick fends two members to parliament, ha? a weekly market on Saturday, and four annual fairs, viz. the twelfth of "May, and the fifth of July, for horfes,* cows, and fhecp ; the fourth of September, for horfes, cows, fhc ep, and checfe ; and the eighth of November, for horles, cows, and fheep. At Leamington, eart of this town, there is a fait rpring, which rifes near the river Learn, the water of which is ufed by the poorer 'fort of people to fcafen their bread. At \V A ft W I C K S H I R E. At Burford, nine miles from Warwick, one Samuel f*airfax, who was born in the year 1647, lived to the age of twelve years under the fame roof with his father ' and mother, grandfather and grandmother, and great grandfather, and great grandmother, all in perfect health, and dwelling together with the greateft harmony of duty and affection ; neither of the three generations of either lex had been twice married. Chefterton, upon the FofTe-way, fouth-eaft of this town, is fuppofed to have been a Roman ftation ; for fume coins, and other traces of Roman antiquity, have been difcovered here. At Studeley, not far from this town, was a priory of Aultin canons, founded by Peter de Studely in the be- ginning of the reign of king Henry II. It was dedi- cated to St. Mary, and at the time of the general diffo- lution, had yearly revenues amounting to one hundred and feventeen pounds ten millings and a penny. Here was alio an hofpital for the relief and entertainment of poor impotent perfons, founded by William de Canti- lupe, before the twenty-third year of king Henry III. At Guy's Cliff, near Warwick, there was a chauntry of two prieiis, founded by Richard Beauchamp, earl of Warwick, in the time of Henry VI. Henly, the next town we vilitcd after leaving War- wick, is alio called Henly in Arden, from its lituation in Arden, which was the ancient name of that part of the county, now called Wood-Land, and to diftingu ; fh it from feveral other towns in the kingdom of the fame name. It is fituated near the river Alne, at the diftance of eighty-five miles from London ; and has a chapel of eafe "to Waveney, in the neighbourhood, where the parifh-church is. This chapel was firft built in the fdrty-'fitft year of Edward III. This town has a weekly market on Monday, and two annual fairs, viz. Lady-day, and Tuefday in Whitfun- week, for cattle. At Wattonwaven, near Henly in Arden, was a cell of Benedi&ine monks, belonging to the abbey of Ca- fteliion in Normandy, and given it by Robert de Tonci in the time of Henry I. We then proceeded on our journey to Aulcefter, a very ancient town and corporation, iituated upon the river Avon, at the diflance of one hundred and five miles from London. Here is a good free-fchool j and the corn trade here is not inconfiderable. This town, which Hands upon Ikenild-ftreet, was a Roman ftation. The foundations of Roman buildings, feveral Roman bricks, and Roman coins of gold, filver, and brafs, have at different times been dug up at this place ; and about a century ago, an urn was difcovered here, containing above fix hundred pieces of Roman coin, eight of which were gold, and the reft filver- Moft of thefe coins were impreffed with the heads of fome one of the emperors, and the reverfes generally different. Ralph Pincerna, in the year 1 140, founded an abbey of Benedictine monks in this town, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and St. John the Baptift : but this houfe being much decayed, was, about the year 1467, made a cell to the abbey of Lvefham, a borough town of Wor- cefterfhire. Its revenues were valued, upon the diffb- lution, at fixty-fivs pounds feven fhillings and eleven- pence per annum. Aulcefter has a weekly market on Tuefday, and three annual fairs, viz. Tuefday before the fifth of April, the eighteenth of May, and the feventh of October, for cheefe and horfes. Bitford ftands upon the river Avon, near its con- fluence with the Arrow, at the diftancc of one hundred miles from London. It contains nothing which can re- commend it to our notice, but having a weekly market. We next entered Stiatford, commonly called Stratford upon Avon, from its fituation upon that river, and to diliir.'ruifh it from feveral towns in England of the lame T « 1 name. It is a corporation, and governed by a mayor, a recorder, a high fteward, twelve aldermen, of whom two are juftices of the peace, and twelve capital bur- geffes. This *is a large, populous town, ninety-feven miles from London, and carries on a great trade in corn. Here is one parifh-church, and a chapel of eafe. The church is dedicated to the Trinity, and is thought to be- almoft as old as the Norman Conquell; but parts of it have at different times been rebuilt. - Stratford was formerly collegiate, and is highly cele- brated for having had the honour of giving birth to the renowned and inimitable Shakefpear. The remains of this great dramatic poet were likewile, in the year 1504, interred in one of the ifleson the north fide of the chui ch. His grave is covered with a ftone, on which there is the following inscription : Good friend, for Jefus' fake, forbear To dig the duft inclofcd here. Bleft be the man that fpares thefe ftoncs, Arid curft be he that moves my bones. And in the wall over the grave there is a buft of him in marble. The chapel of eafe in this town was built in the reign of king Henry VII. by Hugh Clapton, lord mayor of London. Here alfo is a free grammar-fchool, and an aims-houfe, founded by king Edward VI. and Hugh Clopton, who built the chapel, erected at this place a ftone bridge, confiding of nine arches, over the river Avon, with a long caufeway at the end of it, walled on both fides. There was a monaftery in this town before the year 703; and in 13)0, a large chauntry or college was founded in the parifh-church of this place, by John de Stratford, bifhop of Winchefter, and afterward arch- bifhop of Canterbury, for a warden, four priefts, three clerks, and four chorifters, who were endowed, upon the fuppreffion, with revenues rated at one hundred and twenty-feven pounds feventeen fhillings and nine-pence per annum. Stratford has a weekly market on Thurfday, andgMK annual fairs, viz. the fourteenth of May, the tw fifth of September, and the Thurfday fe'n night the twenty-fifth of September, for cloth, cheefe, wheat, hops, and all forts of cattle : the day afteHB laft fair is a ftatute for hiring fervants. At Wroxhall, near this town, Hugh de Hat' about the end of the reign of king Henry I. founded 3 priory of Benedictine nuns, dedicated to St. Leonard. About the time of the diftblution, here were five or fix religious, who had revenues to the yearly amount of feventy-two pounds fifteen fhillings and fix-pence. Leaving Stratford, we palled on to Atherfton, com- monly known by the appellation of Atherfton on the Stour, from its fituation on that river, and to diftingtiifh it from another town of the fame name in this county j north of Nuneaton, upon the borders of Leicefterfhire. It is a large, well built town, diftant from London one hundred and three miles. Here is a chapel of eafe, and a charity-fchool, where twenty girls are taught to read, knit, few, and fpin. Here was a church, and habitation for Friars Here- mites of the order of St. Auftin, built about the end of the reign of king Edward III. and valued, upon the dif- folution, at no more than one pound ten fhillings and two-pence per annum. This town has a weekly market on Tuefday, and four annual fairs, viz. the feventh of April, for horfes, cows, and fheep ; the eighteenth of July, a holiday fair only ; the nineteenth of September, for horfes and cows, and the moft confiderable cheefe fair in England; the fourth of December, for horfes and fat horned cattle. Mancefter upon Watling-ftreet, near this town, was the Mandueffedum of the Romans, and here feveral Ro- man coins of brafs and filver have been dug up. Near this place are the remains of an ancient fort, called Oldbury : it is of a quadrangular form, is inclofed with high ramparts, and contains about feven acres of ground. In the north part of this fortification have been found feveral flint ftones, each about four inches long, curioufly ground into the form of a pole-ax, and thought by Sir William Dugdale, who wrote an account of the antiquities of this county, to have been a fort 20 WARWICKSHIRE. a fort of weapons ufed by the ancient Britons, before they had the art of making weapons of brafs and iron. At Polefworth, north of Atherfton, as fome labourers were trenching, in the year 1762, they found a large earthen pot full of fmall copper coins, moft part of which bear a beautiful impreffion of the head of the emperor Conftantine, with the name, Conftantinus, round it : on the reverfe are two armed figures, with emblems of various kinds, and round them the words Gloria Exercitus. Some few among them have an armed head on each fide, with Urbs Roma round it, and Ro- mulus and Remus fitting under a wolf, on the reverfe fide : others have an armed head on one fide, and the word Conftantinopolis round it, a*id Pallas on the reverfe : fome have a chariot and four horfes on the reverfe fide, and others have a variety of fingle figures. At Oldbury was a cell of Black nuns, dedicated to St. Laurence, and fubordinate to the nunnery at Polef- worth. It is thought to have been founded by Walter de Haftings, and Athawis, his wife, in tbe time of Henry I. Near Atherfton, at a place called MereveJ, Robert, earl of Ferrers and Nottingham, about the year 1 148, founded an abbey of Ciftertian monks, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed, at the fuppreflion, with two hundred and fifty-four pounds one {hilling and eight-pence per annum. North of this town, at Aucot, there was a fmall priory of four Benedictine monks, founded in the year 1 159, by William Burdet, and valued, upon the general diflblution, at thirty-four pounds eight {hillings per annum. Curious Plants found in Warwickfhire. Millet Cyperus-grafs ; Cyperus grambius miliaceus, Ger. found in feveral places on the borders of this county. Long-rooted baftard Cyperus ; Cyperus longus inodorus fylve/lris t Ger. found frequently in boggy places by the river Tame. Naked Horfe-tail, or Shave-grafs ; Equifetum nudum, Ger. found in a moift ditch at Middleton, towards Drayton. Black-headed Rufh with Gromil-feed ; Junais femine Lithofperni ; found in the fame places with the Cyperus longus inodorus. Elegant Cyperus-grafs with a rough compound head ; Gramen cyper sides paluftre elegant, fpiea compof.ta a/per iore; found in a pool at Middleton, towards Colefhill. Great Cyperus-grafs, with round upright fpikes • Cyperoides angujlifoliam fpicis longis ereJfis, C. B. found in feveral pools about Middleton. Moonwort ; Lunaria minor, Ger. found in feveral clofes about Sutton-Coldfield, on the well fide of the town. Wild Englifh Daffodile ; Pfeudo-parciffus Anglicus, Ger. found in fome paftures about Sutton -Coldfield, on the eaft fide of the town, in great plenty. Fennel-leaved Water-Crowfoot; Millefolium mara- triphyllum ranunculi fort, Park ; found in great plenty in the river Tame, and the brooks which run into it. Tower-muftard ; Turritis, Ger. found on the borders of this county in many places. Red-whorts, or Bill-berries; Vaccinia rubra bacceis foliis, Park ; found on the black boggy heaths between Middleton and Sutton. Wood Horletail ; Equiftum fylvaticum, Tab. found in moift places in the road between Middleton and Sutton. Black-berried Heath ; Baccifera nigra, Park ; found on the moift banks by the new park at Middleton. The greater Biftort or Snakeweed ; Biflorta major, Ger. found in feveral parts on the borders of this county. Moor-berries ; Idaa paluftris, C. B. found in the moorifli grounds in Sutton-Coldfield-park, in great plenty. Members of Parliament for this County. Warwickfhire fends fix members to parliament; two knights of the fhire for the county, two citizens for the city of Coventry, and two burgeiles for the town of Warwick. G L O U C E S- GLOUCESTERSHIRE; O R, GLOCESTERSHIRE, THIS county is bounded by Warwickfhire, Ox- fordfhire, and Berkfhire, on the eaft ; by Here- fordfhire and Monmouthfliire on the weft 5 by Wor- cefterfhire on the north ; and by Wiltfhire and Somer- fetfliire on the fbuth. It meafures in length, from north-eaft to fouth-weft, about fifty-fix miles ; in breadth, from fouth-eaft to north-welt, about twenty- two miles ; and is one hundred and fifty-fix miles in circumference. It is divided into thirty hundreds, in which are one city, twenty-five market-towns, two hundred and eighty parifhes, about twenty-fix thoufand feven hundred and fixty-nine houfes, and one hundred and fixty-two thoufand five hundred and fixty-eight in- habitants. It lies in the province of Canterbury, is a diocefe of itfelf; and the city of Glocefter, which is nearly in the middle of the county, is one hundred and two miles north-weft of London. The ancient inhabitants of this county, in common with thofe of Oxfordfhire, were by the Romans called Dobuni, a name generally fuppofed to have been derived from Dujfen, a Britifh word, which fignifies deep or low, and alludes to the fituaticn of thefe counties which confift chiefly of plains and vallies. Some, however, are of opinion, that it was derived from Dofu, a Britifh word, which exprefted the richnefs of the foil. Soon after the Saxons arrived in Britain, the name Duboni was loft, and the inhabitants of this county were called Wiccii, which is fuppofed to have its derivation from the Saxon word Wic, fignifying the creek of a river, and to have been applied to thefe people, as bordering upon the Severn, a river full of windings and creeks. The inhabitants of this county have a proverb, '* The father to the bough, the fon to the plough ;" which alludes to an ancient privilege, by which the eftate of a father, though a felon, defcended to the fon. This privilege was confirmed to them by a ftatute of the feventeenth of Edward II. but it has not been claimed many years. The cuftom called Borough Englifh ftill remains in many parts of this county. Glocefterfhire is generally divided into three diftricls. The eaftern part of the county, bordering upon War- wickfhire, Oxfordfhire, and Berkfhire, is called Cotef- would ; the middle part the Vale of Glocefter; and the triangular part, included between the Wye, the Severn, and a fmali river called the Leden, is known by the name of the Foreft of Dean. The Vale of Glocefter manifeftly received its name from its fituation ; and the Foreft was probably called the Foreft of Dean, from Dean, the principal town in the diftricl:; fome have fuppofed the word tiean to be a corruption of Arden, a name ufed both by the ancient Gauls and Britons, to iignify a Wood j and there is a wood in Warwickfhire called Arden to this day. RIVERS. There are feveral large rivers in this countv ; the principal of which are, the Severn, the Wye, the Stroud, and two Avons. The name Severn is probably a conuption of Sabrina, the name given to this river by ihe Romans, but the derivation of Sebrina is not known. The Severn, which is efteemed the fecond river in Eng- land, riles on the eaft fide of a vaft mountain, called Plyn Lvmmon, in the fouth-weft part of Montgomery- fhire, in Wales, from whence, by a variety of wind- ings, it runs north-eaft, and enters Shropfhire; where being joined by a great number of fmaller ftreauis, it runs through that county and Worcefterfhire, in the direction of fouth-eaft : it then enters the county of Glocefter at Tewkefbury, a borough town ; whence running fouth-weft by the city of Glocefter, it falls into that part of the weftern fea called the Briftol Channel. 44 The tide flow? up the Severn as far as Tewkfbury, which is near feventy miles from the fea ; and from Newnham, a considerable market-town upon this river, upwards of fifty miles from the fea to its mouth, it has more the appearance of a fea than a river; the flood-tide advances with fuch impetuofity, that in one fwell it fometimes rifes near four feet. The name Wye is fuppofed to have been an appella- tion, which in the ancient Britifh language fignified a river or water. The Wye rifes within half a mile of the fource of the Severn ; and running fouth-eaft, fepa- rates Radnorfhire and Brecknockfhire, two counties in W ales, from each other : it then pafi'es through Here- fordfhire, and parting Monmouthfhire from Glocefter- fhire, falls into the Severn near Chepftovv, a market- town of Monmouthfhire. The Stroud rifes not far eaft of Painfwick, a markets town ; and running weftward, falls into the Severn about five miles fouth of the city of Glocefter. The water of this river is remarkably clear, and fixes the colours mixed with it for dying broad cloth, fcarlet, or any grain colour, better than any other : for this reafon feveral clothiers have fettled along the banks for twenty- miles diftance, and have erected a vaft number of falling- mills upon it : of thefe clothiers, fome ufed formerly to make each a thoufand pieces of cloth in a year. No part of this river was navigable till the year 1730, when it was made fo by act of parliament, quite from Stroud, a market-town, to its conflux with the Sev. One of the rivers Avon rifes in Northamptonfh and running through Warwickfhire, and fepara Glocefterfhire from Worcefterfhire, falls into the Severn near Tewkefbury. The other Avon, diftinguifhed by the name of Avon- Weft, rifes not far from Tetbury, a market-town, near the borders of Wiltfhire; and feparating Glocefterfhire from Somerfetfhire, falls into the Severn near Briftol, a city in Somerfetfhire. We fhall confider the Inland Navigation at the end of our futvey of this county. Air, Soil, and Natural Productions. Though the air of this county is equally healthy throughout, yet it is in other refpedts very different ; for Cotefwould being a hilly country, the air there is very fharp, but in the Vale it is foft and mild, even in winter ; fuch indeed is the difference, that of Cotef- would it is commonly faid, eight months in the year are winter, and the other four too cold for fummer ; and of the Vale, that eight months are fummer, and the other four too warm for winter. Cotefwould being thus expofed, js not remarkable for its fertility ; and the corn is fo flow in coming up, that, ' as long a coming as Cotefwould barley,' is be- come a proverb of the county : the hills of Cotefwould, however, afford excellent palturage, and great numbers of fheep are fed upon them, whole wool is remarkably fine : the breed of fheep which produce the fine Spanifh woo], is faid to have been railed from fome of thefe fheep, which were fent as a prefent by one of our kings to a king of Spain. In the Vale the foil is very fertile, and the paftures are alfo very rich. The cheefe, called Glocefter cheefe, is made in this part of the county, and next to that of Chefhire, is the beft in England. The Foreft of Dean, which contains thirty thoufand acres, being twenty miles long and ten broad, was formerly covered with wood, and was then a harbour for robbers, efpecially towards the banks of the Severn ; fo that in the reign of king Henry VI. an a£t of parliament was made on purpofe to fupprefs them. The woods have been fince I reduced to narrower bounds, bv clearing great part of G ' the 21 GLOUCESTERSHI RE. the ground, where many towns and villages have been built. The oaks that grow where the woods are (till preferved, are reckoned the beft in England ; and from this foreft moft part of the timber formerly employed in {hip-building, was brought, which was fo well known to the Spaniards, that when they fitted out their famous Armada in 1558, to invade England, the people who had the direction of that expedition, were exprefsly ordered to deftroy this foreft, as the moft fpeedy and effectual way to ruin our marine : on the other hand, to cultivate and preferve the wood in a fufficient part of this diftrict, has been the conftant care of our legislature. Great part of it was inclofed by an act of parliament pafTed in the reign of king Charles II. and fome time ago, many cottages, which had been built in and near the woods, were ordered to. be pulled down, becaufe the inhabitants damaged the trees, by cutting or lopping them for fuel. In this part of the county there are alio many rich mines of iron and coal, for the working of which feveral acts of parliament have palled ; and at Taynton, a little village near Newent, a market-town of this county, a gold mine was difcovered about the year 1700, of which a leafe was granted to fome re- finers, who extracted fome gold from the ore, but did not go on with the work, becaufe the quantity of gold was fo fmall, as not always to anfwer the expence of the feparation. The king has a fwanimote court here, as in all royal forefts, to preferve the vert and venifon, of which the verdurers are the judges, who are chofen by the freeholders of the county. The miners too have a court here, in which a fteward, appointed by the con- ftable of the foreft, prefides ; and juries of miners, who have their particular laws and cuftoms, by which they are governed, determine all differences and difputes that arife between them. This county abounds with grain, cattle, fowl, and game ; the inhabitants have alfo bacon and cyder in great plenty, each excellent in its kind ; and the rivers afford great quantities of fifh, efpecially the Severn, which abounds with falmon, lampreys, and conger eels. Remarks on the Husbandry of Glocefterfhire. The road from Witney to North Leach, is, perhaps, the worft turnpike in England ; fo bad, that it is a fcandal to the country. They mend and make with nothing but the ftone which forms the under ftratum all over the country, quite from Tetsford the other fide of Oxford. This ftone, which rifes in vaft flakes, would make an admirable foundation for a furface of gravel ; but by ufing it alone, and in pieces as large as one's head, the road is rendered moft execrable. We travelled it with a very low opinion of all the counties and places it leads to : for if they were inhabited by people of fortune and fpirit, it is natural to think they would never fuffer fuch a barbarous method of mending their capital road to fubfift. All the country is open, dull, and very difagreeable, nor does a vigorous culture of the earth make any amends for thofe unpleafing circumftances : the crops were generally very poor, and moftly full of weeds ; a ftrong proof of bad hufbandry ; and another yet more fo, is their fallows being the fame. About Burford and Shcrborn their courfes of crops are various. Some fallow for wheat. 2. Dibbled peafe. 3. Barley. Others vary it, I. Wheat. 2. Beans dibbled, or barley. 3. Peafe: this is in the low lands about Sherboin ; but on the Cotfliill-hills they take a crop, and lay down with ray- grafs and clover. They life all foot ploughs, with one wheel, and four horfes in length ; plough about one acre a day. The open fields on the hills let in general for about five or fix (hillings an acre, the low meadows about twenty fhiliings. They reckon three quarters of wheat to be a very good crop, and as much barley and beans. The farms are in general large, indeed abfurdly fo, confidering the manner of managing them, for the farm-houfes are all in the towns; fothat the farmers are at a prodigious diltance from their lands : they are in general two, three, four, and five hundred pounds a year, at about five fhiliings. Enclofing by no means flourifhes, for from Tetsford to Oxford enclofures aft fcarce ; and from thence to North Leach, few or none. Mr. Duttor) has planned fome at Sherboin, but the fcheme goes on very flowly. It is amazing that a man of his confiderable fortune can bear to live in the midit of fuch a vaflly extenfive property, in its prefent con- dition. All this bleak unpleafant country is ftrong enough for any kind of trees, and might therefore be ornamented with fine plantations, which would yield confiderable profit in a countiy wherein firing is fo fcarce. And farm-houfes, barns, and all kinds of out-houfes, might be built on the fpot, cheaper, we apprehend, than in any part of England ; for the ftone, which every where lies almoft within fix inches of the furface, forms the walls and covering (flates) of all the buildings in the country. PRICE OF LABOUR. Winter and fpring, eight-pence, nine-pence, and ten-pente a day. Summer, one Chilling. Harveft, one fhilling and eight-pence. Reaping wheat, four and five fhiliings an acre. Mowing barley and oats, fix-pence and nine-pence. Dibbling beans, five fhiliings. Hoeing ditto twice, five fhiliings. Threfhing wheat, two fhiliings per quarter. barley, one fhilling. oats, ten-pence. 1 — beans, one fhilling. About North Leach they fow much fainfoine ; they prepare for it by turnips, and fow it with oats, and mow it every year for about ten, getting generally a tun, or a tun and an half of hay from it. Between North Leach and Frog-mill, the country improves continually, until it becomes what may really be called fine. About Stow, the feat of l9rd Ched- worth, we obferved them for the firft time ploughing with oxen, and to our great indignation, eight large ones yoked to a plough, and fkimmmg up the furface about three inches deep ; which the ploughman, with a very grave face, called ftiff work. It was a fain/oine lay, that had been pared and burnt about a month before, half an inch deep : it was turning up for turnips ; the afhes laid but thin, we ftiould not imagine above two bufhels to a fquare rod. The price of paring, burning, and fpreading the afhes, varies from fourteen to twenty fhiliings an acre. This is very cheap ; fuch an operation would, in the eafiern parts of the kingdom, come at Jeaft to three or four pounds an acre : fuch is the force of any practice being the cuftom of the country ! About Shipton day-labour ufed all winter to be eight- pence, nine-pence, and ten-pence a day; but the laft, the farmers railed it to one fhilling for the firft time, on account of the dearnefs of provifions, and give the men one fhilling and two-pence in the fpring, one fhilling and fix-pence in mowing-time, and one fhilling and eight-pence at harveft for five weeks. Oxen are pretty much ufed ; we found they reckoned them fomething cheaper than horfes, but that horfes did their work better. In fummer they feed them in both common and artificial graffes ; and in winter feldom give them any thing befides good ftraw, on which they work them : they put them to labour at three years old, and continue them at it till five. The ploughs are here very clumfy; the beams ten feet long, and all have wheel-coulters. From Frog-mill to Crkkly-hill, which leads into Gloucefter Vale, the beauty of landfcape is great. Six miles from the former, from the top of an hill, is feen to the right a moft prodigious profpect, over an exteiafive vale, bounded by Cheltenham hills, which feem to tower quite to the clouds; the inclofures appear in a bottom under you, and are veiy diftinct. On the whole, it is inferior only to that amazing one of Bil- lericay. All this country is full of picturefque views ; the romantic fpots of Crickley-hill are exceedingly fine, or rather the whole forms a complete piece of fublime nature, and is well worthy of attention from thofe vvhofe nerves will fuffer them to relifh thofe forts of objects. The GLOUCESTERSHIRE. The hufbandry of this trael does not materially differ from the preceding ones. Their courfe of crops is, i. Barley. 2. Clover for two years. 3. Wheat. 4. Peafe. They reckon two quarters middling crop of wheat, and the fame of oats, and of barley three. Rents run from fix to twelve {hillings an acre, but in general fix or feven {hillings. The farms above hill are large, from two to three hundred a year, and fome more ; but in the Vale of Gloucefter they are much lefs. What grafs they have they mow ; very few beafts are grazed, and but few dairies, except in the Vale, where they have all that fine breed of hogs, which at Barnet market are called the Shropfiiires, with exceeding long carcafes, and long douching ears, which almoft trail upon the ground, to make way for their nofes. Sainfoine is much fown in all this country, and lafts generally about ten years, fome longer; and their method of breaking it up, as well as {heep-paftures, after they have laid^ about ten years, is by paring and burning ; they take off the furface about half an inch thick, and plough in the afhes for turnips, fometimes for wheat. The price of this work is fomething under twenty {hillings an acre. Oxen are much ufid for all the purpofes of hufbandry ; never lefs than fix in a plough, frequently eight. They are reckoned the moll profitable by fome farmers, and horfes by others ; but it is generally agreed, that when a mail keeps two teams, it is ever the moll: profitable to have one of them of oxen. PRICE OF LABOUR. Tn winter, &c. to hay-time, eight-pence, nine-pence, and ten-pence. The ftouteft fellows often want work for nine-pence, and cannot readily get it. In hay-time, for mowing, one {hilling, and one {hilling and two-pence. lu harveft, one fiiiiling and eight-pence. Reaping wheat per acre, four and five {hillings. Mowing fpring corn, ten -pence, and one fhilling. Threfhing wheat, two fhil.ings a quarter. . barley, one fhilling. oats, ten-pence. All this exceedingly cheap. IMPLEMENTS. A flout waggon cods from fixteen to twenty pounds ; and a plough ironed complete for half a guinea, which is amazing. Manufactures. The principal manufacture of this county is woollen cloth; and it was computed, that before our wool be- gan to be clandeftinely exported to France, fifty thoufand pieces of cloth were made yearly in this county, which being eftimated at ten pounds a piece, the fine with the coarfe amounts to five hundred thoufand pounds. City, and Market Towns. The city is Glocefter ; and the market-towns 2re, Berkeley, Campden, Cheltenham, Cirencefter, Colford, Great Dean, Duifley, Fairford, Letchlade, Marfhfield, Minching-hampton, Morton in Marfh, Newent, North Leech, Painfwick, Sodbury-Chipping, Stanley-Leonard, Stow on the Would, Stroud, Tetbury, Tewkfbury, Thornbury, Wickware, Winchcomb, and Wotton under Edge. We entered this county from Warwickfhire, and firft vifited Campden, or Camden, a town of great note in ancient hiftory, For a congrefs held here by all the Saxon kings, in the year 689, to confult how to carry on the war jointly againft the Britons. It is fituated on the borders of Worcefterfhire, at the diftance of eighty- feven miles from London. It was incorporated by king James I. and is governed by two bailiffs, twelve bur- gefies, and a high fteward. Here is a church, in which are many fine marble monuments, the moft fumptuous of which is fupported by twelve marble pillars, and was erected in memory of Sir Baptift Hicks, vifcount Camp- den, who built an alms-houfe for fix poor men, and the lame number of women, and rebuilt the market-place. Here are alfo two charity-fchools, one for cloathing thirty girls, and teaching them to read, knit, and fpin ; the other is for teaching twenty-four poor children to read. There is likewife a grammar-fchool in this town, endowed with fixty pounds a year, for a mafter arid ufher. There are fome remains of a feat built here by lord Ciimden, which the Royaliffs burnt down in the civil wars, that it might not be a garrifon for the par- liament. This town is famous for its manufacture of (lockings. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and four annual fairs, viz. Afh-Wednefday, the twenty-third of April, the twenty-fifth of July, and the third of No- vember, for horfes, cows, {heep, linen-cloth, and {lock- ings. Morton in Marfh contains nothing worthy of notice, except that the Roman Foffe-way paifeth through it. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fifth of April, and the tenth of October, for cattle. Within a mile of this town, in the great road from London to Worcefter, are the four {hire {tones, where the counties of Glocefter, Warwick, Oxford, and Wor- cefter meet. Winchcomb, the next town we vifited, was anciently a county or fheriffdom of itfelf, and was a borough in the reign of Edward the Confelfor. Here is an alms- houfe, founded, but not endowed, by the lady Dorothy, wife of Edward lord Chandois, for twelve poor women. This town is fmall, diftant from London eightv-feven miles, and fituated in a bottom, in the midfl of good paflure and arable lands. The inhabitants formerly planted tobacco here with great advantage, till they were retrained in <-he twelfth year of king Charles II. after which, the town, by little and little, decayed, and is now poor 3nd inconfiderable. The church is a good building, hath two ifles, a large chancel, and a lofty tower, adorned with battlements and pinnacles. It is remarkable, that it is a curacy worth no more than ten pounds a year, though the impropriation is valued at three hundred pounds per annum. King Offa is faid to have built here a nunnery in 787; and in 798, king Kenulph laid the foundation of a {lately abbey fcr three hundred monks, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. Its lands being afterwards alienated, and its bifhopric become corrupt, Ofwald, who was bifhop of Worcefter in 985, reformed the difcipline, recovered the lands, and dedicated the houfe to St. Ke- nulph, the martyred fon of the founder. At the general diffolution, it was in the pofleffion of Benedictine monks, and valued at feven hundred and fifty-nine pounds eleven {hillings and nine-pence per annum. This town has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fixteenth of May, and the twenty- eighth of July, for horfes, fheep, and horned cattle. At Hales, near Winchcomb, Richard earl of Corn- wall, and afterwards king of the Romans, and emperor of Germany, began in the year 1246, and, at the ex- pence of ten thoufand marks, finifhed, in the year 1251, a noble abbey for monks of the Ciftertian order, brought from Beaulieu, near New Foreft, in Hampfhire. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and All Saints, and valued, upon the diffolution, at three hundred and fifty-feven pounds feven {hillings and eight-pence per annum. We next proceeded on to Stow on the Would, called in all records Stow St. Edward. This town, from its high fituation, is fo much expofed to the winds, that the inhabitants are faid to have but one element, viz. air, there being neither wood, common, field, nor water, belonging to the town. It is diftant from London feventy-feven miles, is governed by two bailiffs, and has a large church, with a high tower, which contains feveral monuments. Here is an hofpital, alms-houfe, and free-fchool ; befides other charitable inftitutions, all well endowed, the poor here being very numerous. Here are fome good inns, and the Roman Foffe-way paffes through this town. There was an hofpital here, faid to have been founded by,Ailmar, who was earl of Cornwall and Devonfhire, ' about the year 1010. It was dedicated to the Holy Trinity, ix ^ GLOUCEST Trinity, and intended for the maintenance of poor women, and a chaplain. The revenues of it amounted to twenty-five pounds fourteen fhillings and eight-pence yearly. This town has a weekly market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twelfth of May, for horfes, cows, fheep, and cheefe - y and the twenty-fourth of October, for fadlers, fhoe-makers, ironmongers wares, hops, and fheep. For fheep this is a very noted fair ; 'tis faid that twenty thoufand were fold here at one time. Northleech, or Northleche, is fo called from its fitu- ation upon the river Leche, at the diftance of eighty miles from London. It is governed by a bailiff and two conftables. Here is a neat church, feveral alms-houfes, and a good grammar-fchool, which is free to all the boys of the town, and endowed with eighty pounds a year by Hugh Weftwold, Efq; who being afterwards reduced, folicited the truftees to be mafter of it, but was denied. By a decree of Chancery, in the reign of king James I. this fchool was fettled on Queen's College, Oxford. This town has a weekly market on Wednefday, and three annual fairs, viz. Wednefday before the twenty- third of April, for cows and fheep ; Wednefday before the twenty-ninth of September, for horfes and fmall ware ; and the third Wednefday in May, for cheefe and ' cattle. Fairford, the next town through which we paffed, took its name from a ford which was formerly in this place, over a fmall river that runs into the Thames, called the Coin, on which this town ftands. It is diftant from London feventy-eight miles, and has two good bridges crofs the Coin. Many medals and urns are often dug up here ; and in the adjoining fields are feveral barrows, fuppofed to have been raifed over fome confiderable perfons who have been flain here in battle, though it does not appear from hiftory that any battle was ever fought in or near this place. A great many charities are flill fubfifting in this town ; but what it is chiefly remarkable for, is its large, hand- fome church, and the admirable painting of the win- dows, of which the following is an exact defcription and hiftory. John Tame, a merchant of London, purchafed this manor of king Henry VII. to whom it defcended from the Beauchamps, earls of Warwick. Having taken a prize-fhip, bound for Rome, wherein he found a great quantity of painted glafs, he brought both the glafs and the workmen into England. The glafs was fuch a curiofity, that Mr. Tame built this church at Fairford, (dedicating it to the Virgin Mary); which is in length one hundred and twenty-five feet, and fifty-five in breadth ; and has three chancels, a good veftry, and a noble tower, arifing from the midft of it, adorned with pinnacles ; and the windows of the church, twenty- eight in number, he caufed to be glazed with this inva- luable prize, which remains intire to this day, the ad- miration of all that fee it. Mrs. Farmer (a daughter of the lord Lemfter) gave two hundred pounds to be laid out in mending and wiring the windows : this has preferved them from acci- dents. And, in the grand rebellion, the impropriator, Mr. Oldworth, and others, (to their great praife be it remembered !) took down the glafs, and fecured it in fome fecret place, thereby preferving it from fanatic rage. The painting was the defign of Albert Durer, a famous Italian mafter; and the colouring in the drapery, and fome of the figures, is fo well performed, that Van- dyke affirmed, the pencil could not exceed it. The fubject is all fcripture hiftory ; viz. the ferpent tempting Eve ; God appearing in the burning bum to Mofes, when a fhepherd ; the angel conducting Jofhua to war ; Gideon's fleece; the queen of Sheba's vifit to Solomon ; king David judging the Amalekite regicide ; Samfon flaying the Philiftines, killing the lion, and his being betrayed byDalilah; Solomon's judgment between the two harlots ; and the figures of the twelve major prephets. £• : 6 eft *) E II S H I R E. But thegreateft part is taken up with theftonesof theNew* Teftament : the angel appearing to Zacharias ; Jafepli and Mary contracted ; the vifitation of Mary by the angel, and her vifiting her coufin Elizabeth ; our Saviour born in a ftable ; the fhepherds and Magi vifiting him there; Herod waiting the return of the wife men ; Chrift circumcifed ; the purification of the holy Virgin; Simeon with our Saviour in his arms ; Joftph's flight into Egypt ; Herod flaying the young children of Beth- lehem ; the aflumption of the Virgin, and Jofeph and fhe feeking Jefus at the feaft ; our Saviour's transfigura- tion; Alary anointing his head; the difciples going to embalm him, and the angel relating to them his refur- reclion ; Chrift's appearance to Mary Magdalen ; his riding to Jerufalem on an afs ; Zaccheus, and the people ftrcwing palm-branches, and children crying, Hofanna ; his praying in the garden ; Judas betraying him ; Pilate judging him, and warning his hands from the guilt; the crucifixion between two thieves, the women ftanding by, and the foldiers watching him ; Jofeph of Arimathea begging the body, and receiving it ; his burial by Nico- demus, and others; the darknefs at the paflion ; and •», Michael contending with the devil. Chrift's travelling to Emmaus, and his appearance to the eleven, and afterwards to Thomas ; his difciples going a-fifhing, and Chrift's appearing to them, with the breaking of the net, and broiling of the fifh ; Chrift's afcenfion ; and the defcent of the Holy Ghoft in cloven tongues. In the weft window is the Laft Judgment, curioufly defigned, and well executed, containing a vaft number of incidents relating thereto. In the reft of the windows are many hiftorical paflages, that happened after Chrift's afcenfion ; viz. the twelve apoftles at large, with the article of the Creed they are faid to be feverally the authors of ; the four Evangclifts, as Writing the gofpels; four principal fathers of the church, viz. St. Jerom, St. Gregory, St. Ambrcfe, and St. Auftin ; the worthies that have preferved the Chriftian church, in four upper windows of the middle ifle on the fouth fide, and the perfecutors thereof in the four oppofite windows. John Tame, Efq; the pious and worthy founder of this noble ftru£ture, died in the year 1500, and was buried on the north fide of the church, under a railed marble monument. Fairford has a weekly market on Thurfday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fourteenth of May, and the twelfth of November, for fheep and cattle. At Quevington, near this town, there was a preceptory of Knights Hofpitalers of St. John of Jerufalem, to whom this manor was given by Agnes de Lafico, or Lacy, and her daughter Sibylla, before the reign of king John. It was valued, upon the diflblution, at one hundred and thirty-feven pounds feven fhillings and a penny -per annum. William Longefne, earl of Salifbury, in the year 1222, gave the manor of Hethorp, fomewhere in this county, to certain monks and brethren of the Carthufian order, afflgned part of his revenues towards building of amonaftery for them here; and by his will, made in the year 1225, he bequeathed to them church-plate, veft- ments, relicks, and a flock of cattle ; but the religious here, after fome few years ftay, not liking their habita- tion, prevailed with the countefs Ela, relidt of their founder, to remove them to Henton, near Bath, a city of Somerfetfhire. From Fairford we continued our journey to Letchlade. This place derives its name from being built on a fpot of ground formerly called the Lade, and a fmall river running near it, called the Leech. It ftands upon the river Thames, on the borders of Oxfordfhire and Berk- fhire, at the diftance of feventy-four miles from London. It is generally believed to have been anciently a Roman, town, from a very plain Roman road, which runs from hence to Cirencefter. Some are of opinion, that it was once a famous univerfity for teaching Latin, as Creek- LaJe was for Greek. The Thames, after having been formed by the con- junction of the Leech, the Coin, the Churn, and the Ifis, s4 G L O U C E S T E R S II I R E, Ifis, begins to be navigable in this town, and barges come to its quay to take in butter, cheefe, and other croods for London, which renders this place not incon- fiderable. A priory of Black canons, or rather an hofpital, for a mafter or prior, and certain poor and infirm brethren, dedicated to St. John the Baptift, was founded here near a bridge over the Thames, from hence called St. John's Bridge, given to this ufe by the lady Ifabel Fer- rers, wife of Hugh Mortimer, before the thirtieth of Icing Henry III. but this houfe being decayed, king Ed- ward IV. in the twelfth year of his reign, gave his mo- ther, Cicely, dutchefs of York, leave to get it diffolved, and then to apply the revenues of it to the endowing of a perpetual chauntry of three priefts, at the altar of St. Mary, in the parihh church here, which continued till Dean Underwood, in the time of Henry VII. found means to place two of thefe chauntry, priefts at Walling- ford College, in Berkfhire, while the third remained at Letchlade. This town has a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. the tenth of Auguft, for cattle and toys ; and the ninth of September, for cheefe and cattle. The ancient building lately difcovered by digging in a meadow near Letchlade, deferves particular mention. It is fifty feet long, forty broad, and four high, fup- ported with one hundred brick pillars, curioufly inlaid with ftones of divers colours of tefferaic work, and fup- pofed to be a Roman bath. Not far from it are the two towns, called Sarney, fo named by the Saxons, from the Roman caufeways ; Sarn, in that language, and at prefent, fignifying a paved Way. Having viewed Letchlade, we palled on to Cirencefter, commonly called Cicefter, which name it derived from having been a cefler or cajlk, upon a (mall river called the Churn, that falls into the Thames at Crekelade, a borough town of Wiltfhire. Cicefter is diftant from London eighty-five miles, is divided into feven wards, and is by feme thought to be the oldeft, and to have been formerly the largeft town in the county. King Henry IV. gave it a charter, and feveral privileges; and queen Elizabeth granted it another, by which it was governed by a Seward and bailiff" ; and it is now go- verned by two high conftables, and fourteen wardfmen, over feven diftindt wards, who are appointed yearly at the court leet. It is a poft town, and maintains a ftage coach to London. Here were formerly three parifh- churches, one of which only now remains : this is a fine, large, beautiful ftructure, with two ifles, fupported by ftrong pillars : the chancel is handfomely decorated ; it has five chapels adjoining to it, and a neat lofty tower, with an excellent ring of bells in it. There are twenty- eight windows in this church of painted glafs, repre- ienting fcripture hiftory, and the hiftory of feveral fa- thers, martyrs, and persecutors of the Chriftian church ; and exhibiting the feveral religious orders of the church of Rome, from the Pope to the Mendicant Friar. Here is a free-fchool, and a charity-fchool for about nineteen children, and feveral hofpitals and alms-houfes. The manufactures of woollen in this town are very confi- derable, fome idea of which may be formed from the great confumption of wool here, there having been fome years no lefs than five thoufand packs brought hither from Leicefferfhire, Northamptonfhire, and Lincoln- fhire, and fold to the clothiers of Glocefterfhire. This town was of great repute in the time of the Romans and Saxons. Its eminence among the firft appears by the many remains of Roman antiquities and ancient coins that have at different times been dug up in and near this- place; particularly feveral pillars and pa/ements, fuppofed to have been thofe of a temple and bath ; and the fiequent mention of it in the hiftories of the Saxons, who, 'tis faitl , built an abbey, which was repaired by Henry II. makes it probable, that it 'bore a confiderable figure among the latter. They took it from the Britons, after a long defence of it, in 577 ; the Mercians took it from the Weft Saxons in 656, and the Danes took it from the Mercians in 879. In the year, 1020, king Canute held a general council here. Two 45 Roman confular ways crofs each other at this place: one of whicb is ftill viiible, with a high ridge all the way to Birdlip -hills, fouth of Cheltenham ; and the other may be traced to Crekelade, a borough town of Wiltfhire,, Little of the abbey is now left, except two old and in- different gate-houfes. Here is a monument of earthy called Grifmund's Tower, in the form of a wind-niill- hill, in the infide of which there were found human bones, faid to have been of an extraordinary fize, with fome afhes In a vefTel of lead. Cirencefter is thought to have been the ancient Co- rinium of the Romans, mentioned by Ptolemy, and the Durocornovium of Antoninus, and faid to be rebuilt bv Cilia, a viceroy under one of the Saxon kings, a great and populous city ; then inclofed with walls, and a ditch of vaft compafs, which may be traced quite round. The foundation of the wall is alfo very vifible in moft places. A good part of this circuit is now pafture, corn-fields, and gardens, befides the lite of the prefent town. Antiquities are dug up here every day; old foundations, houfes, and ftreets, and many mofaic pavements, with rings, intaglia's, and coins innume- rable, efpecially in one great garden, called Lewis's Grounds, which might have been the Prastorium, or general's quarters ; for Llys, in Britifh, fignifies a palace. Large quantities of carved ftones are carried off" yearly in carts, to mend the highways, befides what have been ufed in building. A fine mofaic pavement was dug up here anno 1723, with many coins. One Mr. Richard Bifhop lately dug up in his garden a vault fixteen feet long, and twelve broad, fupported with fquare pillars of Roman brick, three feet and an half high, on which was a ftrong floor of terrace. Near it are now feveral other vaults, on which cherry-trees grow. Thefe might have been the foundations of a temple; for in the fame place they found feveral ftones of the fhafts of pillars* lix feet long, and large ftone bafes, with cornices very handfomely moulded, and carved with modilions, and other ornaments, which are now converted into fwine- troughs, and pavements before the door. Capitals of thefe pillars weje likewife found. A mofaic pavement near it, and intire, is now the floor of his privy. At Cirencefter there was a rich college of preben- daries before the Conqueft; and in 1117, king Henry I. built here a ftately monaftery for Black canons ; hi dedicated it to the Virgin Mary ; and it was fo liberally endowed by him, and feveral fucceeding kings, that at the diffolution it was valued at one thoufand and fifty- one pounds feven (hillings and a penny per annum. St. Laurence's Hofpital, in this town, was founded in the time of Edward III. by Edith, lady of WigoIJ, for a mafter, and two poor women. The mafter was formerly nominated by the abbot, but is prefented by the king. The two poor women have at this time about two fhillings and fix-pence per week each. St. Thomas's Hofpital was founded for decaved weavers, by Sir William Nottingham, who died in the year 1427. This alfo is yet in being, under the go- vernment of the Weavers Company. Th is town fends two members to parliament, has two weekly markets, on Monday and Friday; and three an- nual fairs, viz. Eafter-Tuefday, the eighteenth of July, and the eighth of November, for cattle, fheep, horfes, wool, oil, and leather. The fair for wool is as con- fiderable as that of any in England. Eaft of this town, at the diftance of about a quarter of a mile, is Starbury-Mount, a barrow where Roman coins have been frequently dug up. Continuing our journey to the weft of Cirencefter, we entered tVJ inching-Hamton, fo called from its having belonged to the Minching nuns at Caen, in Nor- mandy. This town is diftant from London ninety miles. Here is a good rectory church, worth two hundred pounds a year, large, and in the form of a crofs, with ifles on each fide, and a tower, with battlements riling in the middle. In the north ifle are many inferiptions of be- nefactions ; and in that on the foufh fide is the ftatue of a man lying crofs-legged, with a fvvord and fhield by him, and his wife lying at his feet. H 1 GLOUCEST E R S H I R E. It is faid there was a nunnery here before the Con- queft, but no particular accounts of it are to be found. The manor of this place was given by William the Conqueror to the nunnery of the Holy Trinity at Caen in Normandy ; and after the feizure of the lands of the foreign monafteries, it was given by king Henry VI. and king Edward IV. to the nuns of S ion, in Middlefex; and, as a part of that nunnery, was valued, upon the diff©lution, atone hundred and feventeen pounds fixteen {hillings and eleven -penceper amuun. This town has a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. Trinity-Monday, and the twenty- ninth of October, for cattle and cheefe. Leaving this place, we came to Tetbury, a confi- derable cloathing-town, at the diftance of ninety-three miles from London, fituated on a rifing ground, in an healthy air, but fcarce of water in fummer. 'lis well built, has a large market-houfe, well frequented, for yarn ; and there is a lefler mraket-houfe, for cheefe, bacon, and other commodities. It is governed by a bailifF; and at the end of the town is a long bridge, whereof one half is in Wiltfhire. The church is a vi- carage, worth one hundred and twenty pounds a year : it is a good building, large and handfome, in which are divers monuments. Here are a free-fchool, and an alms-houfe. It had formerly a caftle, built by Dun- wallo Malmufius, a Britifh prince. The town feems to b>e well furnifhed with every thing but water, which is fo fcarce, that the inhabitants are obliged to buy it at the rate fometimes of eighteen pence for an hog(head. In this parifh rifes the river Avon, which runs through Briftol, and afterwards falls into the Severn. Tetbury has a weekly market on Wednefday, and two annual fairs, viz. Afh- Wednefday, and the twenty- fecond of July, for cattle, lambs, fheep, and horfes. A little to the north of this town is a meadow, called Maudlin Meadow, becaufe, as we were told, it belongs to Magdalen College, in Oxford. Here the inhabitants {hewed us the head of a fpring, which flowing from thence, runs along an hedge-trough ; and fome tops of the wood, that grows in the hedge, rotting, and falling into this rill of water, are by it turned into {lone. We took up a great many of them, which are generally in the fhape of the pipes (as they are commonly called) which the peruke-makers curl their hair upon, and of a whitiih, ftony fubftance. We broke divers of them, and in the middle found generally a flick of wood, fome as big as a goofe-quill, others larger ; fome had but a thin ftony cruft about them; in others the flick was no bigger than a large needle : again, fome had no ftick in them, but only an hole through them, like that of a tobacco-pipe; and in fome others we could per- ceive no woody fubftance, nor hole at all, but the whole was a foft kind of ftone. Hence we guefs, that the fand, which the water brings down with it, gathers and crufts about thofe fticks ; and that, in time, the ftick confumcs, and the ftony or fandy fubftance fills up and fupplies its place. At Kingfort, in the neighbourhood of Tetbury, it has been common, after a fhower of rain, to find Ro- man coins in the fields, which the people call Chefle- money ; and not far from this village are ftill to be feen the traces of a large camp, now called Bury- hill. l evel ftone Caftle, about a mile north-eaft of this town, was built in the reign of Edward III. by Tho- mas earl of Berkley, out of the ranfom of the prifoners he took at the battle of Porctiers, under the Black Prince. Leaving Tetbury, we continued our journey, and entered Marfhfield, fituated in the road to Briftol, on the borders of Wiltfhire, at the diftance of one hundred and three miles from London. It is governed by a bailiff, who has -the power of punifliing offenders within its precincts. The town confifts chiefly of one ftreet of old buildings, near a mile long : it has a large chvirch, wi'h feveral monuments and inferiptions in the ifltfs a*d chancel. Here is an alms-houfe, with a chapel belonging to it, well endowed, for eight poor people, founded by Mr. Alderman Crifp of London. This town cvries on a confiderable trade in cloth and malt, and is famous for cakes. It is faid there was formerly a nunnery here, but no accounts of it remain. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-founh of May, for horned Cattle ; and the twenty-fourth of October, for fheep, horfes, and cheefe. From this town we parted to the city of Briftol, which has been already defcribed in our furvey of Somerfetfhire, and parted through Kingswood Foreit, in the hundred of Wotton, near the city or containing about five thou fand acres, but fori)'. many more. It con- fifts chiefly of coal mines, trie property of which is veiled in feveral gentlemen by patent. The conftable- wick of this foreft was, by king Edward IV. granted to Humphrey Stafford of Hook-, a branch of the family of the earls of Stafford ; but at the reftoration of the office of keeper of this foreft, and of Filwood, was granted to colonel Humphrey Cooke. 'Tis a contro- verted point, whether this is a foreft, or only a chace ; for 'tis faid to have been dependent on Miclewood. which has been long ago deftroyed ; and Kingfwood itfelf was deforefted in the reign of king Richard I. It takes its name from a neighbouring parifh upon the river Avon, which, though encompaffed round by Glo- cefterfhire, in the fame diocefe ; and though it is feveu miles from the neareft part of Wiltfhire, yet is in the latter county, and under the power of its fherifts and juftices. The houfes are as compact as in a market- town : and its cloth manufacture, which has been very confiderable, made it tolerably large and populous. The whole parifh is tythe-free, by virtue of a grant to an abbey which was founded in it in the year 1139. Here is now a fmall chapel, and a charity-fchool, founded and endowed by a private gentleman. On the edge of this foreft, and on the bank of the Avon, about a mile from Briftol, at a place called Con- ham, are thofe famous works for fmelting of copper, a particular description of which we have already given in our account of" Somerfetfhire. About four miles to the north of Briftol, is a pit in a rock, whence lead ore was formerly dug, called Pen Park Hole. The defcent is nairow, in the form of a tunnel, being about two yards wide, and forty deep. After parting through the rock, it opens into a cave, feventy-five yards long, forty-one broad, and nineteen high. In this cave there is a pool of fwect water, twenty-feven yards long, twelve broad, and five and a half deep. About a mile and a half from Briftol is St. Vincent'* rock, and the famous hot well fo celebrated for curing the diabetes, and other diforders ; a full account of which has been already given in our furveyof Somerfetfhire. Chipping-Sodbury, the next town we vifited, is an ancient borough, originally governed by a bailiff; but in 168 r, it was made a corporation, with a mayor, fix aldermen, and twelve burgeffes, by king Charles II. On the fecond of January, 1688, it was again difincor- porated by a proclamation of king James II. King Stephen granted the bailiffs and burgers of this place the fame liberties as thofe of Briftol, and allowed every burger commonage for a heifer in a place called the Rodings ; and they are ftill impowered to diftribute eighty-eight cow-paftures to as many of the inhabitants, and eight acres of meadow for their own lives, and thofe of their widows; and as they fall, to grant them again in the like manner. This town is diftant from London one hundred and three miles; and being a great tho- roughfare in the road from Briftol to Cipencefter and Oxfordfhire, is well provided with good inns. Here is a fpacious church, though it is but a chapel of eafe to Sodbury, a village in the neighbourhood. Here is like- wife a free-fchool, and other charities. There is a weekly market here on.Thurfday, and two anuual fairs, viz. the twenty-third of May, and the twenty-fourth of June, for cattle, cheefe, and pedlary. About three miles diftant from, this town lies Bod- mington Magna, in the hundred of Grombaldafh, a feat of the duke of Beaufort's; which, for its {lately parks, pleafant walks, fine gardens, variety of foun- tain;, and othej connivances for recreation and pleafure, as GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 2 7 as well as its noble manfion-houfe, may juftly be efteemed one of the compleateft in England ; and king William, who came hither from King-road, where he landed on his return from his expedition to Ireland, was fo Well pleafed with this retreat, that he told the duke, he was not furprized at his abfenting himfelf from court, when he had fo fumptuous a palace of his own. In the fields near Badmington are found cylindrical and fpherical ftones, almoft as big as common balls. We next palled through Wickware, a fmall town, but a very ancient corporation, govfrned by a mayor and aldermen : the mayor, after having ferved that high effice, remains an alderman for life. This town ftands at the diftance of one hundred and one miles from Lon- don, and is well watered by two brooks, over one of which is a handfome ftone bridge. The church is a large edifice, with two chancels. The tower is at the weft end, high, and adorned with pinnacles. Here is a free-fchool, and the neighbouring waftes afford plenty of coal. This town is greatly indebted to one Alexanoer Horfea, a native of this town, and poor, who, when a boy, run away from his parents, but met with fuch amazing turns of good fortune in the world, as enabled him to give fix hundred pounds to build a fchool-houfe here, endowing it with a very good houfe in Gray's- Inn-lane, London, for the maintenance of the fchool- mafter, which gift is fettled by a decree in Chancery. In the garden of the manor-houfe of this town, is a chefnut-tree, which meafures nineteen yards, or fifty- feven feet in circumference, at the height of fix feet above the ground, and is fuppofed to have been planted during the reign of king John, about the year 121 6. Here is a weekly market on Monday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fifth of April, and the l'econd of July, fur oxen and horfes. We then came to Thornbury, fituated two miles from the eaftern bank of the Severn, on a rivulet that runs into it, and at the diftance of one hundred and fix miles from London. The town, which gives its name to the hundred, has a cuftomary, or titular mayor, twelve al- dermen, who muft previoufly have been mayors, and two conftables. In the civil wars it was fortified for kino; Charles I. as a check upon the garriibn of Glo- cefter. The church here is large, in the form of a ca- thedral, with fpacious ifles on each fide, together with a crofs, and a beautiful high tower at the weft end. Here are four fmall alms-houfes, and a free-fchool. Here are ftill to be feen the foundations of a magnifi- cent caftlc, begun, but never finiflied, by Edward duke of Buckingham, who was beheaded in the reign of king Henry VIII. This town has a weekly market on Saturday, and four annual fairs, viz. Eafter-Monday, the fifteenth of Auguft, "Monday before St. Thomas's day, and the twenty-firft of December, for cattle and horfes. Oldbury, upon the river Severn, and near Thorn- bury, was a Roman ftation ; and Antoninus fays, that here was the trajectus or paflage over the river Severn. In this place are two large Roman camps ; and at Alvefton, not far from Oldbury, is a large round camp on the edge of a hill, from whence there is a beautiful profpecl of the Severn. iMear the camp is a large bar- row, in which were found feveral ftone coffins, with bones in them : and at a place called Caftle-hill, not far from hence, is another camp ftill to be feen, being an oblong fquare with a fingle ditch. This trajcclus or paflage over the Severn was after- wards removed to Auft, a hamlet of Hanbury, on the banks of the Severn, and formerly called Auft Clive, from its fituation upon a craggy clifF-, but the incon- veniency and danger of the paflage rendered it neceflary to remove it. Accordingly, about thirty years ago, the ferry was fixed at a place called New-Paflage, about two miles lower down the Severn, which is reckoned fafer, and much more pleafant. This, however, may truly be faid. of Auft, that it has a neat chapel, and a high tower at the weft end, adorned with pinnacles. Continuing our journey, we came to Berkley, in the hundred of the fame name, and near the Severn, at the diftance of one hundred and eleven miles from Lond»n, It is the largeft parifh in the county, being twenty-four miles in compafs, and is an ancient borough, governed by a mayor and aldermen, and gives title of earl, as well as furname to the ancient family of Berkleys. The Severn, for almoft fix miles, runs by this parifhj Which lies fo low, that it is efteemed neither pleafant nor healthy. The mayor is fworn at the court-leet of the earl of Berkley, who is lord of this manor^ as well as the caftle, which is termed in old records, The Honour of Berkley, and is one of the largeft in England, moil of the towns in the hundred, and many other places in the county, being in all near thirty parifhes, depending on it: for which a fee farm rent was paid inking Henry II's time, of five hundred pounds feventeen (hillings and two-pence, which fliews the vaft extent and value of this eftate, even in thofe days. It belongs to the prefent earl of Berkley, who is alfo baron of Durfley. The caftle is a ftrong, magnificent, though antique building, and the ancient feat of this noble family, which is fcarce to be paralleled by any fubject for the nobility of its extraction. It is agreed by all our hiftorical writers, that king Edward II. of England, was murdered in this caftle : they Ihew the apartments where they fay that the king was a prifoner, but they do not admit he was killed there. Here is a large, fpacious church, with ftately monuments belonging to the Berk- ley family, an ifle on each fidej and a chapel ad- joining, a neat veftry, and a ftrong high tower. is a charity-fchool in this town. Here was a nur A it long before the Conqueft, which was fupprefled oy,^ villainous contrivance of Godwin earl of Kent, . ' procured many of the nuns, and the abbefs herfelf, be debauched, in the time of king Edward. An hofpital of St. James and St. John, in this place, is mentioned in a deed of the twelfth year of king Henry III. but no particulars are known about it. This town has a weekly market on Wednefday, and an annual fair on the fourteenth of May, for cattle, and pigs. At Longbridge, near Berkley, a priory or hofpital was founded by Maurice lord Berkley, in the time of king Henry II. It was dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and afterwards augmented with two chauntry priefts by William marquis of Berkley. At Lewing, near this town, the fame Maurice lord Berkley is faid to have founded an hofpital in the time of king Henry II. At Woodchefter, in the neighbourhood of Berkley, probably in the time of Edward the Confeflbr, Gueta, wife to Godwin earl of Kent, is faid to have built a religious houfe, to atone for her^hufband's guilt in cor- rupting the nuns at Berkley. From Berkley we proceeded to Wotton under Edge, fituated on a pleafant and fruitful eminence, at the diftance of ninety-nine miles from London. It is a pretty town, and long fince noted for the making of cloth. The chief magiftrate, who is chofe yearly at the earl of Berkley's court-leet, is called a mayor, and is ever after an alderman. Here is a large ftately church, which is a vicarage, and hath two wide ifles, and an high handfome tower, adorned with battlements and pinnacles. In this church are feveral tombs and monuments, chiefly belonging to the Berkley family. Here are alfo a free- fchool, and an alms-houfe for fix poor men, and fix women. The town is well fupplied with water, which was brought hither at the expence of Hugh Perry, Efq; alderman 6f London, in the year 1632. Here is a weekly market on Friday, and an annual fair on the twenty-fifth of September, for cattle and cheefe. At Alderly, near this town, are fome hills, on which great numbers of ftones, in the form cf cockle and oyfter fhells, are found. A variety of conjectures have been formed with regard to the origin of thefe ftones ; fome confidering them as a lufus natura^ while others will have them to be really the fhells of fifh thrown up here by the fea at the univerfal deluge. At Boxwell, not far from Wotton, there was a nun- nery, faid to have been deftroyed by the Danes. Durfley, G L O U C E STERSHIRE. Durfley, the next place we vifited, is nincty-feven miles from London. It is a corporate town, governed by a bailiff and four conftables ; but has nothing re- markable, except a manufacture of woollen cloth, and a fpacious church, with a handfome fpire. This town has a weekly market on Thurfdav, and an annual fair on the fourth of December, for cattle and pedlars ware. In the neighbourhood of this town is a rock of in- credible durability, and yet eafily cut. It is called Puff ftone by the country people, who, as a fpecimen of its durable quality, fay, that the walls of Berkley caftle, which have very little appearance of decay, iheugh near feven hundred years old, are built of it. Robert Montgomery, earl of Salifbury, gave, in the reign of William the Conqueror, the manor of Horfely, a little to the north-eaft of Durfley, to the abbey of St. Martin at Troan, in Normandy, a ftrutture which he himfelf had founded. In confequence of this dona tion, a prior and monks were fettled here, dependent upon that foreign monaftery. This houfe afterwards became a cell to the convent of Bruton, in Somerfet- Ihire, till that ftru£ture was totally deftroyed at the dif- folution of religious houfes. Leaving Durfley, we parted on to Stanley-Leonard, fo called from its having once a monaftery dedicated to St. Leonard. It is ninety-five miles diftant from Lon- ° N, has a charity-fchool, a market on Saturday, and the ra annua i f a i rs , viz. the feventeenth of November, Li thi Saturday after St. Swithin ; both for cattle and ■" r j£ c ars ware. n the church of this town was a fmall monaftery of * w ' prior and canons; which being given by Roger Berk- ey, in the year 1146, to St. Peter's in Glocefter, be- T came a cell of Benedictine monks to that abbey. At the diffolution, there were only three monks, whofe an- nual revenues amounted to feventy-one pounds fix fhil- lings and eight-pence. At Kingley, fouth of Stanley, there was an ancient priory, endowed with a manor, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. At length, it became a college and free chapel of fecular priefts. At Woodchefter, a village near this town, a curious Roman pavement of mofaic work was difcovered in the year 1722. It is of a confiderable extent, and repre- sents birds and beafts in their natural colours, befides a variety of other devices beautifully executed. And at Cromhall, a village between Wickware and Thornbury, was found, not long ago, another pavement of the fame kind, eighteen feet and a half long, and near fifteen feet and a half broad, compofed of cubical ftones of beautiful colours, ftrongly cemented. Stroud, the next town through which we paffed, ftandvon a hill, at the foot of which runs the water called Stroud. It is diftant from London ninety-three miles, has a handfome church, ninety feet long, and forty broad ; the chancel is thirty feet long, and fixteen wide at the weft end rifes an high fpire fteeple, and a tower in the middle. Here is a free-fchool, a charity- fchool, and a work-houfe. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and two an- nual fairs, viz. the twenty-third of May, and the twenty-fourth of June, for cattle, cheefe, and pedlary. At Bifby, a village near Stroud, was born and edu- cated the famous Friar Bacon, who, from his fuperior knowledge, gained the reputation of a conjurer. He died in the year 1284. We then continued our journey northward, and en- tered Painwick, fituated in the moft wholefome air of this county, on the river Stroud, at the diftance of ninety-four miles from London. The cloathing trade is greatly followed here. The church is a vicarage, and very handfome, with two chancels, a north ifle, and a neat fpire. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. Whiti'un-Tuefday, and the nineteenth of September, for horned cattle and fheep. Leaving Painwick, we arrived at the ancient city of Glocefter, which is a well built, clean, healthy town, at the diftance of one hundred and two miles from Lon- don, fecured by the river Severn on one fide, a branch of which brings up fhips to it; beautified with a cathe- dral, and five parifh-churches, and exceedingly well provided with hofpitals. It has its name from its fair fituation on a pleafant hill. It was a Roman colony, by the name of Colonia Glevum, and governed by a conful. It was called a city when London was but a burgh. The Saxons took poffc/fijm of it about the year 570. Forging of iron feems to have been the bufinefs of the town fo early as Will iam the Conqueror ; for we find in Doomfday, that the tribute required of it was a certain quantity of iron bars. Jt has had its mif- fortunes both from wars and fires, but ftill rofe a^ain and flourifhcd ; and at length king Henry VIII. having fuppreffed its abbey of St. Peter here, made it an epif- copal fee, (with a dean and fix prebends) which to this day i^ its greateft glory ; as is next to that, its giving title of duke to his Royal Highnefs Frederick Prince of Wales. Its caftle, which was erected in the time of William the Conqueror, is very much decayed ; part of it is leafed out by the crown, and the reft ferves for a prifon, one of the beft in England. In its cathedral, which is an ancient, but magnificent fabric, and has a tower, faid to be one of the neateft and moft curious pieces of architecture in England, are the tombs of Ed- ward II. and of Robert duke of Normandy, fon to William the Conqueror; and there is a whifpering place, like to that in the cupola of St. Paul's at London. It has beautiful cloyfters, in the ftile of thofe at King's College, in Cambridge ; and there are twelve chapels in it, with the arms and monuments of many great perfons. King John, in the firft year of his reign, made it a borough, to be governed by two bailiffs. Henry III. who was crowned here, made it a corporation. By its prefent charter, granted by Charles II. in 1672, on re- fignation of its former charters, it is governed now by a fteward, who is generally a nobleman, a mayor, re- corder, twelve aldermen, out of whom the mayor is elected, a town-clerk, two fheriffs, chofe yearly out of twenty-fix common-councilmen, a fword-bearer, and four ferjeants at mace. Here are twelve incorporated companies for its trade, which was confiderable, till leffened by the neighbourhood of Briftol ; but pin-mak- ing is now one of its chief manufactures. Here is a fair ftone bridge over the river, with a quay, wharf, and cuftom-houfe. King Edward I. held a parliament here anno 1272, wherein feveral good laws were made, now called The Statutes of Gloucefter. King Richard II. alfo held a parliament here ; and king Richard III. in confideration of his having borne the title of Duke of Gloucefter, before he acquired the crown, added the two adjacent hundreds of Dudfton and Kingfbarton to it, • gave it his fword and cup of maintenance, and made it a county of itfelf, by the name of the County of the City of Gloucefter : but after the reftoration, the hun- dreds were taken away by act of parliament, and the walls pulled down, becaufe the city had fhut the gates againft king Charles I. when he befieged it in 1643. Before that fiege it had eleven parifh-churches, but fix of them were then demolifhed. Camden is of opinion, with Geoffrey of Monmouth, that this city was honoured with the epifcopal dignity in the time of the Britons. Sir William Dugdale gives the name of one of its bifhops anno 522; and archbifhop Ufher fays, that Theonus was tranflated from Glocefter to the archbifhoprick of London, anno 542. Here are abundance of erodes and ftatues of the kings of England, feveral market-houfes fupported with pillars, and large remains of monafteries. Its town-hall, for the affizes, &c. is called the Booth- Hall. Under the bridge there is a machine which raifes the water to ferve the town ; though it is alfo fupplied. from Robin Hood's Well, which is a fine walk, a mile or two out of the city. Camden fays, that the famous confular way, called Ermin-ftreet, which begins at St. David's in Pembrokefhire, and reaches to Southampton, pail'es through this city. Wulphere, the firft Chriftian king of Mercia, is faid to have begun a church and monaftery here, which were finifhed by his brother and fucceffor, Ethelred, about the year 680, through the care of Ofric, his nephew, and GLOUCESTERSHIRE. ' 2? and at that time his viceroy in th'.fe patts, but after- | wards king of Northumberland. It was dedicated to St. Peter. Over this monaftery three fuccefave queens prefided during more than ninety years : in the time of the civil wars that followedj it became defolate, and continued fo fifty years, but fome fecular priefts were placed in it about 823, by Bernulph king of Northum- berland : thefe priefts were turned out, and BenedicYine monks put. in about the year 1022, by command of king Canute, and at the intrigation of Wolftan bifhop of Worcefter. His fucceffbr, bifhop Aid red, about trie year 1058, new-built the abbey chutch in a place nearer the city, where it formerly flood ; and after the Con- quer!, abbot Scrlo, the Conqueror's chaplain, much increafed the number of monks, and the revenues, which amounted, at the diflblution, to one thoufand nine hundred and forty-fix pounds five {hillings and nine-pence per annum. Some of the legendary writers report, that a flately monaftery was built here in honour of St. Ofwald, the king and martyr, about the year 660, by Mer-ald, viceroy of the weftern part of Mercia, and Dornneva, his wife : it is alfo reported upon better authority, that in the year 909, Ethelred, earl of Mercia, and the famous Elficda, "daughter of king Alfred, his countefs, tranflating the relicks of St. Ofwald from Bardney, near Lincoln in Lincolnfhire, to this place, founded here a religious houfe, which being deferted by the monks in the Danifh wars, became a college of fecular priefts: it was then accounted a free chapel royal, exempt from the jurifdiftion of the archbifhop of Canterbury, or the bifhop of Worcefter ; but king William Rufus gave it to the archbifhops of York, in lieu of their claims to Lindfay, one of the three divifions of Lincolnfhire, and to other p:.rts in that county, which they quitted to the bifhop of Lincoln. Henry Murdac, archbifhop of York, in the year 1153, placed here a certain number ol regular canons of the order of St. Auftin, feveh of whom continued till the general diflblution, when the revenues were valued at ninety pounds ten (hillings and two- pence per annum. Here was ?. priory of Black canons of the order of St. Auguftine, founded by king Ethelftan. King Henry III. founded, in the parifh-church of St. Nicholas, near the Weft Bridge, in this city, a priory or hofpital dedicated to St. Bartholomew, for four infirm brothers and fitters, under the government of a prior or mailer. In this hofpital were once maintained fifty-two poor men ; but afterwards it confifted of a mafter, three brethren, and thirty-two poor men and women. In Dugdale and Speed's valuations, there are two hofpitals of the name of St. Bartholomew, in the city of Glocefter ; one rated at forty-four pounds feven fhillings and two-pence per annum, and the other at twenty-five pounds eleven fhillings and tw^-pence per annum. A houfe or college of Black friars was founded near the Caftle Yard of Glocefter, by king Henry III. and Sir Stephen de Hernefhull, about the year 1239. One of the lord Berkleys founded here, not far from the South Gate, in the parifh of St. Mary Crrpt, an houfe of Grey friars, before the year 1268. There was a priory of Carmelite or White friars, in the fuburb, without the North Gate, faid to be founded by queen Eleanor, Sir Thomas Gifford, and Sir Tho- mas Berkley, in the time of king Henry III. North of St. Margaret's church, in the parifh of St. John Baptift of this city, there is an hofpital dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, but now called St. James's Hof- pital, which maintains nineteen poor people, at one fhilling and fix-pence per week each. This city fends two members to parliament, has two weekly markets, on Wednefday and Saturday, and four annual fairs, viz. the fifth of April,, a confiderable cheefe fair ; the fifth of July, the twenty-eighth of Sep- tember, and the twenty-eight of November, for cattle, pigs, horfeSj and cheefe. At Laffington, a village near Glocefter, are found certain nones called the aftroites, or ftar-ftones, from their refemblance to a ftar. Some have fuppofed them 45 to be parts of a petrified marine animal ; but the genera! and moft probable opinion is, that, they u «M,e a fpecies of corals. They areftriatc-d from the ccntu- [a the circum- ference, and their radii are fometirrws prominent above the furface of themafs ; fomctimes they are level with it, and fometimes fink below it. They are of a greyifn colour, and when put into vinegar, will move about for a confiderable time. At Slymbridge, a frnall village on the banks of the Severn, about ten miles fjuth of Glocefter, there is a family of the firname of Knight, which has been diftin- guifned for many generations, by having five fingers and a thumb on each hand. At Lanthony, near this city, Milo, earl of Hereford, in the year 1 1 36, founded a monaftery, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and St. John the Baptift, for the Black canons of Lanthony, in Monmouthfhire, who were driven out of their habitation by the Welfh. At the time of the diflblution, it was endowed with feventy- elght pounds nineteen fhillings and eleven pence a year k Erom Glocefter we kept eaftward, and foon came to Cheltenham, a market-town, where is ftitl a pretty good trade carried on in malt, but not fo confiderable as for- merly. Here is a good church in the form of a crofs, with ifles on each fide, and a fpire iifins; in the middle, noted for a good ring of bells. But what is more re- markable, is, that the minifter is to b^ nominated by, and muft be a fellow of Jefus College, Oxon, (though the vicarage is but forty pounds a year) buc approved of by the earl of Gainfborough ; and he cannot hold it more than fix years. Here are a free-fchuol, an hofpital, and fome other charities. The aiineral waters lately difcoverfd at Cheltenham, which are of the Scarborough kind, are what will make this place ftill more and more remarkable, and fre- quented. An eminent phyfician has obliged us with the following account of their uatuie and qualities ; * Thefe waters, he obferves, were firft found out by * the flocks of all the neighbouring pigeons going con- ' ftantly thither to provoke their appetites, as well as to ' quench the uncommon thirft of thefe falacious birds. ' I have been informed, fays he, by a phyfician of ' credit and experience, who had made all the common ' trials on them, and obferved their efte£ts on many ' perfons of various conftitutions, and in different ' diftempers, who had drank them, That, on evapora- ' tion, they were found to contain, in a gallon, eight « drachms of nitrous fait, with two drachms of an alca- ' lious earth : that they were compounded of a large ' quantity of nitre, to which they owed their purgative ' virtue ; a light fulphur, which the fetid dejedtions ' manifefted ; and a volatile fteel, difcoverable by a * tranfparent blue colour, when mtxed with an infufion ' of nut-galls. Alcalious fpirits have no effecT: on them, ' but they ferment with acids. He further adds,' That * there might be found fome other materials in their ' compoficion, perhaps, if more minutely examined and ' tortured : but that thefe mentioned principles were ' evident and inconteftable, and were fufficisnt to ac- ' count for all their effects and operation ; the others * (if there be any) being of little efficacy. In the ope- ' ration, they empty the bowels according to their dofe, * but gently, mildly, and eafily, without ficknefs, * naufea, gripes, or caufing great lownefs, far beyond * any artificial purges whatfoever. They give a good ' appetite, an eafy digeftion, and quiet nights, in all * nephritic and gouty cafes, when not under the fit ; ' in all rheumatic, fcrophulous, fcorbutic, or leprous ' cafes ; but efpecially in fpermatic, urinary, or has- * morrhoidal cafes, he thinks them fovereign, and not ' to be matched. In a word, in all inflammatory cafes ' of whatever kind, and whatever part, he thinks them * one of the moft falutary means which can be ufed. * Thofe of pretty ftrong nerves, and firm conftitutions, ' bear them with high fpirits, gre?t pleafure and profit j * but they do not at all fuit with thofe of weak nerves, 1 paralytic, hypochondriac, or hyfteric diforders, or * thofe who are fubject to any kind of fits, cramps, or ' convulfions: they ruffle fuch too much, as generally { all purgatives do. He thinks they have a great affinity I t» 3o G L O U C E S f E R S H I R E. * to the Scarborough v/at j-s, and rirt f gti t do great cures 4 in moft chitonV/ilP di ftempers, if ejfcertHfe and a proper • regimen v.efe dl'r^ied with them.' Here is a Weekly- Market on Thurfday, and three an- nual fairs, viz. the' fecond Thurlday in April, and Holy Thurfday, for all forts of cattle ; and the fifth of A'Jfjuftj for lambs. , Here was a monaftery in the year 803, of which no particulars are recorded. At Hcnbury, a village about two miles from St. Vin- cent's Rock, was alfo a monaftery, in very early times, of which there is no account extant. The Ciftertian monks of Kingfwood, in Wiltfhire, north-eaft of Briftol, having obtained Hafelton, near Cheltenham, about the year 1 153, tranflated their abbey thither; but in the time of Henry II. they returned to Kingfwood. We next vifited Tewkfbury : it is fituated at the con- flux of the Severn with the Avon, that runs out of Warwickshire ; and thefe rivers, with the fmaller ftreams of the Carron and the Swallgate, almoft furround the town. It is diftant from London ninety-fix miles, and had its firft privileges fiom king Edward II. they were confirmed by feveral fucceeding kings, and the town was at length reincorporated by James I. It is governed by twenty-four burgefles, two of whom are chofen bailiffs yearly, who are the ruling magiftratcs, and have jurifdiction within the borough, exclufive of the juftices of the peace for the county : this corporation was dif- folved by proclamation of king James II. It is a large, beautiful, and populous town, confifting of three well built ftreets, and many lanes : it has a bridge over three of the four rivers that run by it; and a church, which is one of the largeft in England, that is neither collegiate nor cathedral : it is adorned with a {lately tower and funeral monuments, particularly feveral of the earls of Glocefter and Warwick, prince Edward, fon of Hen. VI. and the duke of Clarence, brother to Edward IV. Here is a frce-fchool, befides an hofpital, endowed with forty pounds a year, by the late queen Mary, to be paid out of the Exchequer, for the maintainance of thirteen poor people, and a reader, who is appointed by the corpora- tion. Near this town is a piece of ground called the Ham, which is a courfe for horfe-races. The chief manufacture here is woollen cloth and (lockings ; but the town has long been famous for muftard balls, which are fent in great quantities into other parts. At Tewkfbury there was a monaftery, firft built and endowed by two brothers, Oddo and Doddo, dukes of Mercia, about the year 715. It was dedicate i to the Virgin Mary ; and having fuft'ered much during the civil and Danifii wars, became a priory to Cramborn, in Dor- fetfhire, about the year 980 ; but Robert Fitz-Haimon, a noble Norman, who came in with William the Con- queror, enlarged the buildings, and increafed the pof- feffions fo much, that about the year 1102, the monks of Cramborn chofe to remove hither, and make this their principal houfe of lepers, before the firft year of king John. ■ Doddo, the duke or chief nobleman of Mercia, one of the founders of the monaftery at Tewkfbury, who became himfelf a monk at Parfhore, a /narket-town of Worcefterfhire, is faid to have built a monaftery at Decrhurft, two miles fouth of Tewkfbury, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in memory of his brother Almaric, buried in this place. It was afterwards deftroyed by the Danes, but rebuilt, and again inhabited before the year 980. King Edward the Confeffor gave it, with all the lands belonging to it, to the Benedictine monks of the abbey of St. Dennis, in France, to which it became a cell : by thefe monks it was fold to Richard earl of Cornwall in the year 1250, when it had eight lordfhips, and was accounted worth three hundred marks a year. After many alienations, it at laft became a cell to Tewkfbury abbey, and continued fo till the diflo- lution. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and five annual fairs, viz. the feventh of March, the fourteenth of May, the twenty-fecond of June, the fourth of September, and the tenth of OJtober, for tanned leather, feveral forts of cattle, and pedlary. From thence we proceeded to Newent. This town took its name from an inn called New-Inn, which was fet upiiere for the accommodation of pafl'engcrs cn their journey to and from Wales. It is fituated on a fmall river, navigable by boats, in the Foreft of Dean, at the diftance of one hundred and four miles from London. Here is a handfome chuich, three alms-houfes, and two charity-fchools. King William the Conqueror gave the manor of Newent to .the abbot and convent of Cormeile, in Nor- mandy, who fent over a prior and fome Benedictine monks ; and here was a cell, fubordinate to that foreign monaftery. Here is a weekly market on Friday, and four annual fairs, viz. Wednesday before Eafter, Wednefday before Whitfunday, the firft of Auguft, and Friday after the eighth of September, for cattle, horfes, and cheefe. We then pafled on to Great Dean, or Michael Dean, the principal town in the Foreft of Dean. It is diftantf one hundred and thirteen miles fiom London, and coa- fifts chiefly of one ftreet. Here is a good church, with a handfome fpire. The principal manufacture of this town was formeily cloth, but it is now pins : the hills round this town abound with iron ore, and there are fever al furnaces for melting it, and forges for beating the iron into flats. The workmen are very induftrious in difcovering the beds of old cinders, which not being fully exhaufted of the metal, are purchafed of the owners of the land at a good price ; and being burnt again in the furnaces, afford better iron than the ore new dug from the mines. It is a cuftom among the miners, when one of them gives teftimony as a witnefs, to wear a particular cap; and that he may not defile holy writ with unclean hands, he touches the Bible, when the oath is adminiftered to him, with a ftick. This town has a weekly market on Monday, and two annual fairs, viz. Eafter-Monday, and the tenth of Oilobcr, for cattle, fheep, and horfes.* At Flaxley, a village in this neighbourhood, Roger, the fecond earl of Hereford, after the Conqueft, built an abbey in the time of king Stephen, for Ciftertiau monks : it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and at the fupprel'fion had nine monks in it, whole yearly re- venues were rated at one hundred and twelve pounds three {hillings and a penny. From hence we proceeded to Newnham, an ancient town-corporate, the fword of ftate being ftill preferved there, which king John gave them with their charter ; and the place is remarkable for its having been the firft fortification that was raifed on the other fide of the Se- vern againft the Welfh ; for its having been the manor by which the great place of high conftable of England was held, down to the execution of Edward Stafford, duke of Buckingham, on the feventeenth of May, 1521, and for its having given rife to the art of making glafs in England ; the remains of the firft glafs-houfes that were erected in the kingdom being ftill to be feen here. The town confifts of little more than one long ftreet running north and fouth, and built upon the high fhore of the Severn. It has a vale on the back of it, and is defended on that fide with a great bank of earth, which makes the moft agreeable terrace-walk. The extremity of the town fouthward, being the higheft part of it, is adorned with a beautiful houfe and garden, which belonged to Thomas Cromp, Efq; deceafed, from whence you have a full view of the whole femielliptical part of the river. The extremity of it northward, being the lovveft part, it is adorned with an handfome houfe and garden, be- longing to Mr. Thomas Trigg, an eminent attorney at law : and there being a common ferry here over the Severn, a fpacious road running vveftward, and lately repaired at the expence of his majefty, leads from the town to the foreft. This town has a weekly market on Friday, and two annual fairs, viz. the eleventh of June, and the eigh- teenth of October, for horfes and fhecp. Calford, or CoverJ, the next town we came to, is fituated in the Foreft of Dean, in the road from Glo- cefterfhire G L O U C E S T E R S H I R E. eefterfhireto Monmouth, the chief town of Monmouth- fhire, at the diftance of one hundred and twenty-one miles from London. Here is a charity-fchool, but no- thing elfe that deferves notice. This town has a weekly market on Friday, and two annual fairs, viz. the twentieth of June, for wool ; and the twenty-fourth of November, for horned cattle, and cheefe. Curious Plants found in Glocefterfhire. Elegant broad-leaved imperforate St. John's Wort ; Androfamum Campoclarenfe, Park; found on St. Vin- cent's Rock, near Briftol. Marfh-Afparagus, or Sperage, corruptly called Spar- row-grafs ; Afparagus palu/lris, Ger. found in Appleton- meadow, about two miles from Briftol. The Box-tree ; Baxus arborefeens, Park ; found at Boxwell, in Cotefwold. Daifie-leaved Ladies-fmock ; Cardamlne pumila Bcl- lifdis folio Jlpina, Ger. found on St. Vincent's Rock, near Briftol. Small autumnal Hyacinth ; Hyacinthus autumnalis minor ; found on the fame rock. Englilh Sea-tree-mallow ; Malva arbor ea marina noflras, Park ; found on an ifland called Denney, three miles from King's-road. Rock-Parfley ; Peucedanum minus, Park ; found on St. Vincent's Rock. Wild- madder ; Rubea fylvefiris ; found on the afore - faid rock. Small Sengrene of St. Vincent's Rock ; Sedum minus e rupe S. Vincentii ; found as above. Knobby-rooted Anemony or Wind-flower ; Anemone tuberofa radice ; grows on Cotefwold-hills, near Black- Burton. Alexanders ; Hippofe/inum, Ger. found on the rocks at Beckley, going down to Aft ferry. Finely cut annual Mountain-Crefie ; Nafturtium mon- tanurn annum tenuijfune divifurn ; found on St. Vincent's Rock. Remarks on the Navigation of Glocefterfhire. We have already, in our account of Somerfetfhire, defcribed the navigatjon • of the Avon, the only river navigable in this county, except the Severn. The mouth of the Severn, at the extremity of Glocefterfhire, where the Avon falls into this river, is between five or fix miles over, and is indeed a raging and furious kind of fea, occafioned by thefe raging kinds of tides called the Bore, which flow here fometimes fix or feven feet at once, rolling forward like a mighty wave; fo that the ftern of a veflel is lifted fix or feven feet upon the water, when her head is faft a-ground. The Severn is navi- gable to Welfh Pool, on the borders of Shropfhire ; and veflels of very large burden, called Troughs, come down the Severn from Glocefter, and other places, loaded with goods, which they carry to Briftol, Bridgewater, and all the fouthern coafts of South Wales. By this means a very confiderable trade is carried on to the great advantage of this county. We fhall confider the navigable canal now making for connecting the Severn with the Humber, when we come to defcribe the counties through which it is in- tended to pafs. The navigation of the Wye will be considered in our account of Monmouthfhire. Members of Parliament for Glocefterfhire. This county fends eight members to parliament ; two knights of the fhire for the county, two citizens for Glocefter, two burgeffes for Cirencefter, and two for Tewkfbury. MONMOUTH- [ 32 ] MONMOUTHSHIRE. THIS county is bounded by Herefordshire on the north, by Glocefterfhire on the eaft, by the river Severn on the fouth, and by the two counties of Breck- nock and Glamorgan, in Wales, on the weft. Its length, from north to fouth, is twenty-nine miles ; its breadth, from eaft to weft, twenty ; and its circum- ference eighty-four. Ufk, which is nearer the middle of the county than any other market-town, is diftant one hundred and thirty miles nearly weft from London. It is divided into fix hundreds, in which are one hun- dred and twenty-four parifhes, feveri market-towns, and about fix thoufand four hundred and ninety houfes. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of LandafF. This county was, in the time of the Romans, part of the territory inhabited by the Silures, of whom men- tion will be made in the account of Herefordfhire, which w2s alfo a part of that district. MonmouthShire was by the ancient Britons called the Gwent, as is thought from the ancient city of the fame name, which probably was the Venta or Venta Silarum of the Romans. The inhabitants were cruelly harrafled after the Ro- mans came into England, by the lords of the marches, to whom the kings of England granted all the lands they could conquer from this people. This county was originally confidered as a part of Wales, and continued to be So till near the end of the reign of king Charles II. when it was reckoned an Englilh county, becaufe the judges then began to keep the aflizes here, in the Oxford circuit. RIVERS. This county is abundantly watered with fine rivers, the principal of which are, the Severn, the Wye, the Mynow; the Rumney, and the Ufk. The Severn has already been defcribed in our account of Glocefterfhire, and the Wye will be in that of Herefo: dfhire. The My now, Mynvvy, or Monow, rifes in Brecknockfhire ; and running fouth-eaft, and dividing this county from Hereford, falls into the river Wye at the town of Mon- mouth. The Rumney alfo rifes in recknockShire ; and running fouth-eaft, and dividing this county from Glamorganshire, falls into the Severn. The Ufk rifts likewife in Brecknockfhire ; and running alfo fouth-eaft, and dividing Monmouthfhire into nearly two equai parts, falls into the Severn near Newport, a confiderable market-town of this county. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Monmouth (hire. The river Wye, which feparates this county fronv Glocefterfhire, is navigable for barges to Monmouth, and fhips of confiderable burden come up to Chepftow, where the water rifes with great violence, as we have already obferved in our account of Glocefterfhire. The river Ufk is navigable for barges to Caerleon, and vefTels of confiderable burden come up to Newport. The navigation might be extended to Abergavenny ; but the many falls in its courfe would render a confiderable number of locks necefTary, and confequently expenfive. In all mountainous countries, indeed, the making of any inland navigation is difficult, and often tedious, though the utility generally anfwers the expence, and increafes the riches of the county. Air, Soil, Natural Productions, and Manufactures. The air of Monmouthfhire is temperate and healthy, and the foil fruitful ; the eaftern parts are woody, and tkte weftern parts mountainous : the hills feed cattle, I Sheep, and goats ; and the vallies produce plenty of J hay and corn : the rivers abound with falmon, trout, and other fifh. Here is great plenty of coals ; and the principal manufacture is flannel. Remarks on the Husbandry of Monmouthfhire. The lands, in . many parts of this oounty, are rich and fertile, and the meadows remarkably fine. The courfe of crops on their ploughed ground, is, i. Fallow. 2. Wheat. 3. Peafe. 4. Oats. 5. Turnips. 6. Barley. 7. Clover and ray-grafs. They ufe oxen chiefly, many farmers keeping no horfes ; plough with five, fix, and fometimes eight, and . ufe only foot-ploughs of a very clumfy conftruition. They reckon two quarters and an half a good crop of wheat, and three and an half of b;ir]ey : about Lidney, land, at an average, lets for four- teen Shillings per acre; but in fome other places it runs up to twenty Shillings, and roore. LABOUR. In winter, one Shilling. In fpring, 'one Shilling and two-pence. , In harveft, one Shilling, and board and beer. Mowing grafs, ©ye Shilling and eight-pence per acre, and beer. Around Chepftow, for fome miles, there lies a great quantity of very good meadow-ground, which lets from one guinea to two per acre, but their arable land is in general about twelve fhillings. They ufe oxen chiefly for pic ling, Six at a time, and often mix them with horicSi Labour, very dear ; the fame as laft minuted ; or if any difference, rather dearer. About Lanvachers, which is the mid-way between Chepftow and Newport, they have a great mixture of good and bad hufbandry. As to all the general cejonomy and management of their farms, it is generally bad ; for we found them univerfal in employing Supernumerary hands and beafts, without giving their lands a propor- tionable culture, than which there cannot be .1 more unprofitable practice : their numbers of each appeared to us pretty much, as twelve oxen and four or fire horfes to one hundred acres of arable land, and four or five men-fervants and boys, and as many labourers moSt part of the year ; which on the whole, ought to be productive of infinitely better, and more garden-like hufbandry than is to be met with here : and in the management of their people they are Strangely remifs-, for notwithstand- ing their wages are good, yet we found upon inquiry, th it they fuffered a Surprizing degree of idienefs among them, and languid execution of their bufinefs ; and notwithstanding the foil is tolerably light, and many fields level, yet the ridiculous cuftom of ploughing with fix, and even eight oxen T continued here, which ftrength of cattle never did above an acre a day, and very fre- quently not above half an acre; and when they carry out their corn to the ports on the Severn, which are at a fmall diftance, they do not load fix or eight flout oxen with more than ten facks, not often more than eight. All thei'e inftances arc marks of wretched ideas of ge- neral management. But with fuch marks of mifrrable ceconomy, we did not remark any fields of wheat or barley very foul with weeds ; but in general clean crops, which is a point of great importance. Their courfe of crops is in general as follows: r. Fallow. 2. Wheat. 3. Barley. 4. Oats. 5. Ra>-~ grafs and clover, from three to eight years, then pare and burn; and, l. Fallow. 2. Wheit. 3. B.srlev. 4. Clover, two years. 5. Wheat. The firft is miferatie hufbandry, and the latter bad. Their fallow for wheat M 6 N M O U T H S H i \i h. ^tonfifts of three ploughings; they fow two bufhels of feed (nine gallon meal'ure) on an acre, and reckon a middling crop between fifteen and twenty bufhels : they then give two earths for barley, of which they fow three bufhels, and confider from fix teen to twenty bu- fhels a middling crop. The oats they fow on one ploughing, three bufhels and a half to an acre; fifteen the medium : when they throw beans in, which is no regular hufbandry with them, they fow them on one earth, four bufhels to an acre; or if they fet them, two, and reckon fifteen bufhels a middling crop, but never hoe them. If they fow peafe, which they likewife throw in irregu'arly, they give them but one earth to harrow in ; but if for under-furrow, then they plough twice ; fifteen bufhels a medium, but never hoe. Tur- nips are not commonly fown, not lb common as they ought, confideringthat fome of their lands' are extremely dry and light, but rich withal ; but they never hoe them : their crops, therefore, may eafily be fuppofed without defcription ; they ufe them chiefly for their fheep, but fome feed their oxen with them. What apples they can have, we ha\'e no conception, for they few above a quart of feed on an acre, and all the culture they give them, is that of a harrowing. Farms are in general fmall, from forty to two hundred pounds a year, but chiefly from forty to one hundred pounds ; and the rents run from feven {hillings and fix- pence to ten fhillings an acre arable, and about twelve or fourteen fhillings grafs ; exceeding fine tracts of land are let on an average at fifteen fhillings. Moft of the farmers in this neighbourhood are fenfible of the fupcrior profit attending grafs lands, on companion with arable, and accordingly they have generally more of it than of ploughed land. Lime is the great manure here ; they think little can be done without it; infomuch, that every large farm has a kiln for burning lime-ftone, of which the whole country has quarries. They generally lay on what they call three dozen ; fome four or five, that is, fo many dozen bufhels. We were informed in Herefordfhire, the farmers go twenty miles, and pay three fhillings a dozen for it. LABOUR. Weekly pay, in general, five {hillings. In fpring, fix fhillings. In harveft, fix {hillings, and victuals; drink with all. Reaping wheat, three {hillings, and three fhillings and fix-pence. Mowing grafs, one {hilling and fix-pence, and a dinner and drink. But in fome villages they are as follows : In winter to harveft, two fhillings and fix-pence a week, and victuals and drink. In harveft, five fhillings ; and boys of from feven to twelve years of age, from one penny to three half-pence a day. Reaping, fix fhillings. Mowing grafs, ten-pence, and a dinner every other day, and drink. Thefe variations are unaccountable in fo fmall a diftance. Around Newport, though at no great diftance from the laft named place, we found a variation in fome ar- ticles, which is worthy minuting : their courfe of crops is, I. Fallow. 2. Wheat. 3. Barley. 4. Clover, two years. 5. Wheat. They have but a fmall proportion of grafs to their arable lands, and ufe oxen in theculti- tivation ; generally fix to a plough, which fcarcely do an acre a day. For wheat they plough four times, and reckon fifteen bufhels a middling crop. For barley they plough three or four times, fow three bufhels, and reckon fifteen a middling crop. For oats they plough but once, fow two bufhels and a half, and fifteen the medium. They plough likewife but once for beans, and in com- mon never hoe them : but Mr. Kemmifs of Newport has introduced the method of fetting them in rows, and keeping them clean by hand-hoes. Their culture of turnips is ridicule itfelf ; for they plough but once, and 4* drag in the feed with ox-drags, then harrowing and never hoe ; the crop mav be guelfed at. Farms in ge- neral run from fifteen to one hundred and fifty pounds a year; and the rent of arable land from five to twelve fhillings an acre ; iind of grafs from feven to thirty-five fhillings. Labour, All the year round, ten-pence a day. Mowing per acre, one (billing, and eight-psncej and dinnej and beer. This is out of all proportion. An ox-boy to drive, four-pence a day. Market Town S. The market-towns are, Abergavenny, Caerleon^ Chepftow, Monmouth, Newport, Pontipole, and Ufk. We entered this countv at Chepftow, crofling the river Wye by means of the bridge. The name of this town is of Saxon original, and fignifies a place of trade and commerce* It wa,< formerly df great eminence^ and much frequented* It ftands at the diftance of one hun- dred and thirty-one miles from London, near the mouth of the W ye, and had once a caftle. Chepftow is thought to have arifen from the ruins of an ancient Roman city, at the diftance of four miles from it, called Vcnta Silurum. It is ftill a large, well built, populous town, Walled round, and ftands upon a hill, cloie to the river, with feveral fieids and orchards within the walls. It has a fine timber-bridge over the Wye, no lefs than feventy feet high from 'he furface of the water, when the tide is out. As this briJge is reckoned to ftand partly in Giocefterfhiie, it is kept in repair at the expence of both counties. This town is the port for all towns that ftand upon the rivers Wye and Lag : fhips of good burden may come up to it, and the tides run in with great rapidity, rifi g commonly fix fathoms, or fix and a half, at the bridge , This town h.:s a weekly market on Saturday, and five annual fairs, viz. Friday in Whitfun-week, for horned cattle ; Saturday before the twentieth of June, for wool; the firft of Auguft, Friday fe'nnight after St. Luke, and the eighteenth of October, for horned cattle. In the year 1607, a fenny tract: of country, called the Moor, near the mouth of the river Ufk, and not far from Chepftow, was, by a fpring-tide, overflowed by the Severn, which fwept away many houfes, and de- ftroyed a great number of the inhabitants and cattle. Not far diftant from this town, on an eminence near the mouth of the Severn, and a little eaftward of the mouth of the Ufk, is remarkable for glittering ftones, which, when the fun fhines, have the appearance of gold ; whence this place has obtained the name of Gold Cliff. At the diftance of four miles from Chepftow, are the remains of the Roman town, which we have b -fore mentioned to have been called by Antoninus J'enta Silurian^ and at this day by the Welfh Caer IFcnt, or the City Venta. The ruins of this city are ftill about a mile in compafs ; and here, in the year 1689, three beautiful Roman pavements were difcovered, together with feveral coins, bricks, and other Roman antiquities. At Tintern, on the bank of a ftream that falls into the Wye, between Chepftow and Monmouth, Walter de Clare, in the year 11 31, founded an abbey for Cif- tertian monks, dedicated to St. Mary. Ab out the time of the diflblution, here were thirteen religious, whole revenues were rated at one hundred and ninety-two pounds one {hilling and four-pence per annum. Five miles from Chepftow, at a place called Strogle, there was an alien priory of Benedictine monks, belong- ing to the abbey 01 Cormeil, in Normandy, as early as the reign of king Stephen. It was dedicated to St. Mary, and at the time of the diflblution had three religious, and a revenue of thirty-two pounds per annum. Leaving Chepftow, we palled along the Monmouth road to Persfield, the feat of Mr. Morris. We were fhewn into a part of the garden, which confifted of flopes and waving lawn*, filing fhrubby trees fcattered K. about 34 MONMOUT about them with great tafte; and ftriking down a fhort walk to the left, came at once to a little fequeftred fpot, fhadcd by a fine beach tree, which commands a molt beautiful landfcape. This little fpot, over which the beech-tree fpreads, is levelled in the vaft rock, which forms the fhore of the river Wye, through Mr. Morris's ground : this rock, which is totally covered with a ihrubby underwood, is almoft perpendicular from the water to the rail which enclofes the point of view. One of the fweeteft vallies ever beheld lies immediately be- neath, but at fuch a depth, that every object is dimi- nifhed, and appears in miniature. This valley confifts of a complete farm, of about forty inclofures, grafs, and corn-fields, interfered by hedges, with many trees; it is a peninfula almoft furrounded by the river, which winds directly beneath, in a manner wonderfully ro- mantic ; and what makes the whole picture perfect, is its being entirely furrounded by vaft recks and preci- pices, covered thick with wood, down to the very wa- ter's edge. The whole is an amphitheatre, which feems dropt from the clouds, complete in all its beauty. From thence we turned to the left, through a winding walk cut out of the rock ; but with wood enough againft the river to prevent the horrors which would otherwife attend the treading on fuch a precipice. After paffing through a hay-field, the contraft to the pre- ceding views, we entered the woods again, and came to a bench inclofed with Chinefe rails in the rock, which commands the fame valley and river, all fiinged with wood; fome great rocks in front, and juft above them the river Severn appears, with a boundlefs profpect beyond it. A little further we met with another bench inclofed with iron rails, on a point of the rock which is here pendent over the river, and may be truly called a fitu- ation full of the terrible fublime : you look immediately down upon a vaft hollow of wood, all furrounded by the woody precipices which have fo fine an effect from all the points of view at Persfield : in the midft appears a fmall, but neat building, the bathing-houfe, which, though none of the beft, appears from this enormous heighth but as a fpot of white in the midft of the vaft range of green : towards the right is feen the winding of the river. From this fpot, which feems to be pufhed forward from the rock by the bold hands of the genii of the place, you proceed to the temple, a fmall neat building on the higheft part of thefe grounds ; and imagination cannot form an idea of any thing more beautiful than what appears full to your ravifhed fight from this amaz- ing point of view. You look down upon all the woody precipices, as if in another region, terminated by a wall of rocks; juft above them appears the river Severn, in fo peculiar a manner, that you would fwear it waflied them, and that nothing parted you from it but thofe rocks, which are in reality four or five miles diftant. This deceptio vifus is the moft exquifite we ever beheld ; for viewing firft the river beneath you, then the vaft rocks rifing in a fhore of precipices, and immediately above them the noble river Severn, as if a part of the licle world immediately before you ; and laftly, all the boundlefs profpect over Gloucefterfhire and Somerfet- fhire, are, together, fuch a bewitching view, th.u no- thing can exceed it; and contains more romantic va- riety, with fuch an apparent junction of feparate parts, that imagination can fcarcely conceive any thing equal to the amazing reality. The view of the right, over the park, and the winding valley at the bottom of it, would, from any other fpot but this, be thought re- markably fine. The winding road down to the old bath, is cool, fequeftered, and agreeable. The buTKling itlelf is cx- ceftively neat, and well contrived ; and the fpring, which fupplies it, plentiful and tranfparent. You wind from it up the rock ; but here we muft be allowed juft to hint a want, if any thing can be wanted in fuch a fpot as Persfield. This walk from the cold bath is dark, and rather gloomy, but breaks and objects are rather fcarce in it; the trickling ft re am you have juft left, puts one in mind of a cafcade, which would be H S H I R E. here vaftly beautiful, but does not appear throughout all the walks of Persfield. On the left, towards the valiey, there is a prodigious hollow filled with a thick wuou, which almoft hangs beneath you : from the walk, an opening down through this wood might eafily be made, with juft light enough let in to fhcw to advantage the gufh of a cafcade : to look backwards, aflant upon fuch an object, would be infinitely picturefque aniidft the brownnefs of this hanging grove. We know not whe- ther water could be brought there ; but if it could, never was there a fituation for viewing it to fuch ad- vantage. Paffing on, there; are two breaks from this walk, which opens to the valley in a very agreeable manner, and then leads through an extremely romantic cave, hollowed out of the rock, and opening to a fine point of view. At the mouth of this cave fome fwivel guns are planted, the firing of which occafion a repeated echo from rock to rock in a moft furprizing manner. Nor muft you pafs through this walk u ithout obferving a remarkable phenomenon of a large o:ik, of. a great age, growing out of a cleft of the rock, without the leaft appearance of any earth. Purfuing the walk, as if rifes up the rocks, and paffes by the point of view firft mentioned, you arrive at a bench, which commands a view delicious beyond all imagination : on the left you look down upon the valley, with the river winding many hundred; fathoms perpendicular beneath, the whole furrounded by the vaft amphitheatte of wooded, rocks; and to the right, full upon the town of Chep-. (low : beyond it the vaft Severn's windings, and a pro- digious profpect bounding, the whole. From thence an agreeable walk, fliaded on one fide with a great number, of very fine fpruce firs, leads you to an irregular junction of winding walks, with many large trees growing from 'the fequeftered lawn, in a manner pleafing to any one of tafte, and figures in a very ftriking manner, by contraft to what prefently fucceeds. Full to the left, appears beneath you the valley, in all its beautiful elegance, furrounded by the romantic rocky woods ; which might be called (to ufe another's expreffion) a coarfe ftlvage of canvas around a fine piece of lawn. In the front, rifes from the hollow of the river a prodigious wall of formidable rocks, and immediately above them, in breaks, winds the Severn, as if parted from you only by them : on the right is feen the town and cattle, amidft a border of wood, .with the Severn above them ; and over the whole, as far as the eye can command, an immenfe profpect of diftant country. The Hoping walk of ever-gieens, which leads from hence, is remarkably beautiful in profpect, for the town and the country above it appear perpetually varying as you move; each moment preienting a frefh picture, till the whole is loft by defcending. You next meet with | the grotto, a point of view exquifitely beautiful; it is a i fmall cave in the reck, ftuck with ftones of various kinds ; copper, and iron cinders, &c. You look from the feat in it immediately down a deep Hope on to a • hollow of wood, bounded in front by the craggy rocks, which feem to part you from the Severn in breaks ; with the diftant country, fpotted with white buildings, above all, forming a landfcape as truly picturefque as any in the world. The winding walk, which leads from the grotto, varies from any of the former ; for the town of Chepftow, and the various neighbouring ob- jects, break on you through the hedge, as you pals along, in a manner very beautiful. Palling over a little bridge which is thrown acrofs a road in a hollow way through the wood, you come to a break upon a ltoop of wood alone, which being different from the reft, pleafes as well by its novelty as its romantic variety. Further on, from the fame walk, are two other breaks which let in rural pictures, fwcetly beautiful; the latter opens to you a hollow of wood, bounded by the wall of rocks one way, and letting in a view of the town another, in an exquifite tafte. The next opening in the hedge gives you, at one fmall view, all the picturefque beauties of a natural camera obfeura; you have a bench which is thickly lhaded with trees, in a dark fequeftered fpot ; M O N M O U T H' S II I R E. 35 and from it you look afide through the opening, on to a landscape which feems formed by the h.ippieft hand of defign, which is really nothing but catching a view of accidental objects. The town and cattle of Chepftow appear from one p;rt of the bench, rifing from the ro- mantic fteeps of wood, in a manner too beautiful to cxprefs ; a fmall remove difcovers the fteeple fo dropt in the precife point of tafte, that one can fcarctly believe it a real fteeple, and not an eye-trap. Soon after a large break opens a various view of the diftant country; and not far fium it another, which is much wonhy of remark: you look dovvn upon a fine bend of the river, winding io the cr.ftle, whiqh appears here romantically iituated ; the oppofite bank is a (welling hill, part over-run with gorfe and rubbifti, and part cultivated inclofures : this difference in the fame object is here attended with emo- tions not confonant ; the wild part of the hill fuits the reft of the view, and agrees with it in the fenfations it raifes ; but the cultivated part being incomplete, and unlike the beautiful farm at the bottom of the before- mentioned amphitheatre, which is entire, has a bad efr'e6t. Was the whole well cultiva;ed and lively, being rather diftinct from the reft of the landfcape, it would have a much better effect. The laft point, and which perhaps is equal to moft />f the preceding, is the alcove. From this you look dovvn perpendicularly on the river, with a finely culti- vated Hope on the other fide. To the right is a pro- digious fteep (hoar of wood, winding to the caftle, which, with a part of the t<»wn, appears in full view. On the left is fecn a fine bend of the river for fome diftance, theoppofit: fhore of wild wood, with the rock appearing at places in rifing cliffs ; and further on to the termination of the view that wav, the vaft wall of rocks fo often mentioned, which are here feen in length, and have a ftupendous effect. On the whole, this fcene is ftriking and romantic. About a mile bevond thefe walks is a very romantic cliff, called the Wind Cliff, from which the extent of profpect is prodigious ; but it is moft remarkable for the furprizing echo, on firing a piftol or gun from it. The explofion is repeated five times very diftinctly from rock to rock, often feven ; and if thecalmnefs of the weather happens to be remarkably favourable, nine times. This echo is wonderfully curious. Beyond the cliff at fome diftance is the abb y, a venerable ruin, fituated in a romantic hollow, belonging to the duke of Beaufort, well worth feeing. Upon the whole, it exceeds any thing of the kind we ever faw. In point of flrikir.g pi&urefque views, in the romantic ftile, Persfield is exquilite. 'I he cultivated inclofures, forming the bottom of the valley, with the river winding round them, and the vaft amphitheatre of rocks and pendent woods which wall it in, to fuch a ftupendous height, is the capital beauty of the place ; and Mr. Morris has fixed his benches, &c. in thofe points of view which command it in the happieft man- ner, with the utmoft tafte : nor can any thing be mere truly pifturefque than the appearance which the Severn takes in many places, of being fupported and bounded by the wall of rocks, though four miles diftant; this effect is beyond all imagination beautifully picturefque. In refptvt to the extenfive profpeefs,-- -the agreeable manner in which the town, caftle, and lteeple, are .caught-— with the rocks, woods, and river taken in themfelves, other places are equal ; but when they unite to form the landfcapes wehavejuft mentioned, we be- lieve they never were equalled. Throughout the whole of thefe walks, it is evident that Mr. Morris meant them merely as an affiftance to view the beauties of nature, as a means of feeing what nature had already done to his hands, and without any idea of decoration or ornament. Every thing is in a j u ft tafte ; but as we have been particular in fyeaking of all the beauties of Persfield, we muft be allowed to bint a lew circumftances wanting to render it complete. We do not mean in the lea!': to difapprove the tafte of ■ the moft ingenious owner : we are not certain that it Would be pofjible to add what we are going to mention; but we minute tlum merely that the idea of Persfield may be exact, and that the reader may not miftake any general exceptions we have made ufe of, to imply beauties which are not here. The river Wye, which runs at the bottom of the walks, is an infinite advantage; but it is by many de- grees inferior in beauty to a frefli water one, which keeps a level, and does not difplay a breadth of muddy bank at low water ; and the colour is execfiively bad: it has not that transparent darknefs, that filver-fhaded furfacc, which is, of itfelf, one of the greateft beauties in nature, and would, among thefe romantic objects, give a luftre inexprefiibly elegant. -Cafcades are likewife greatly wanting; in fuch fteeps of wood and embrowning hollows, which throw a pleafing folemnity on the mind ; nothing has fo glorious an effect, as breaking -unexpectedly upon a cafcade, gufhing from the rocks, and over-hung with wood : there are many fpots in the Persfield hollows, which point out in the ftrongeft manner the beauty of fuch objects. Laftly, There is a want of contrafts ; for the general emotions which arife on viewing the rocks, hanging woods, and deep precipices of Persfield, are all thofe of the fublime ; and when that is the cafe, the beautiful never appears in fuch bewitching colours as thofe it receives from con- traft : to turn fuddenl y from one of thefe romantia walks, and break full upon a beautiful landfcape, with- out any intei mixture of rocks, diftant profpect, or any object that was great or terrible, but on the contrary, lively and agreeable, would be a vaft improvement here ; and we venture the iema;k the rather, becaufe thofe views at Persfield, which are beautiful, are all inter- mixed with the fublime : the farm beneath you is fuper-< latively fo ; but th- precipice you look down from, the hanging woods, and the rocks, are totally different. The fmall break, however, through the hedge, which catches the town and fteeple, is in this tafte ; but even here, fome la-ge rocks appear. Small elegant buildings, in a light and airy tafte, riling from green and gently fwelling flopes, with fomething moving near them, and fituated fo as the fun may fhine full upon them, viewed fuddenly from- a dark romantic walk, have a charming effect : but it muft ftrike every one who walks over Perf- field, that the fineft feats, &c. are feen rather too much before you ftep into them ; they do not break upon you unexpectedly enough : in many of them you fee the rails, which inclcfe them on the brink of the precipice, at a fmall diftance before you enter. What an effect would the view from the grotto, for inftance, have, if you en- tered it from behind, through a dark zig-zag narrow walk ! Monmouth, the next town we vifited, took its name from its fituation at the mouth of the river Monow. The diftance of this town from London is one hundred and twenty-feven miles : it was incorporated by king Charles I. and is governed by two bailiffs, fifteen com- mon-councilmen, and a town-clerk. It ftands between the rivers Monow and Wye, over each of which it has a bridge, and a third bridge over the Trothy, a fmall river which falls into the Wye, almoft clofe to the Monow. This is a large, handfeme town, of great antiquity, and has been confiderable ever fince the Conqueft : it had a caftle, which was a ftately edifice, but is now in ruins. The church is a handfome build- ing, the eaft end of which is much admired. The chief trade of this town is with Briftol, by means of the Wye, that runs into the Severn. Wihenoc de Monmouth, in the time of Henry I, brought over a convent of Black monks from St. Flo- rence, near Salmur in Anjou, and placed them firft in the church of St. Cadoc, in the town of Monmouth, and afterwards in the church of St. Mary. This alien priory was made denifon, and continued till the gentral diffolution, when it was valued at fifty-fix pounds one fh tiling and eleven-pence per annum. About the year 1240, John of Monmouth, knight, founded here the hofpital of the Holy Trinity, and that of St. John. Monmouth fends one member to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, ' viz. Whitfun-Tuefday, the fourth of September, and the $6 MONMOUTI1S H I ll E, the twcnty-fecond of November, for homed cattle, fat hogs, and cheefe. At Llannoth, north-weft of Monmouth, there is a church, wliich, together with the manor of the p^ace, was given, before the year 1183, to the abbey of Lira, in Normandy, which placed here a cell of Black monks. At Gracedicn, on the Trothy, fouth eaft of Mon- mouth, there was a fmall abbey of the Ciftertian order, built in 1226, by John of Monmouth, knight, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Here were only two monks at the fuppreflion, who had nineteen pounds fourteen (hillings and four-pence per annum. We then pafied on to Abergavenny. The name of this town, in the ancient Britilh language, fignifies the mouth of the Gavenny, a fmall river which falls into the Ufk at this place. Abergavenny is diftant from London one hundred and forty-two miles, and is go- verned by a bailiff, a recorder, and twenty-feven bur- gefles. It is a large, populous, and flourifhing town : it had once a caftle, and is ftill furrounded by a wall: it is a great thoroughfare from the weft parts of Wales to Briftol, Bath, Gloccfter, and other places ; and is therefore well furnifhed with accommodation for travellers, and carries on a coijfiderable trade in flannels, which are brought here from the manufactories in other parts of the county, to fell. Here is a fine bridge over the Ufk, confiding of fifteen arches. The town of Abergavenny appears to have been the Gobannium of Antoninus ; and the town of Ufk, which he places at the diftance of twelve miles from Goban- nium, is his Barrium. Hamelin Balon, or Baladun, one of thofe who came over with the Conqueror, about the end of that prince's reign, founded a priory in this town, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. One of his pofterity, William de Breafa, in the time of king John, gave the tithes of the caftle, and other privileges, on condition that the abbot of St. Vincent at Mans, in France, fhould fend over hither a convent of Benedictine monks. It feems therefore to have been for fome time an alien priory to that foreign houfe, but was not diflblved till the general fuppreffion, when here was a prior and four monks, who had revenues worth one hundred and twenty-nine pounds fifteen (hil- lings and eight-pence per annum. Here is a weekly mirket on Tuefday, and three an- nual fairs, viz. the fourteenth of May, for lean cattle and lheep ; the firft Tuefday after Trinity, for linen and woollen cloth ; and the twenty-fifth of September, for hogs, horfes, and flannels. At Landony, among thofe hills in the north-weft part of this county, called Hotterel-Hills, about eight miles north of Abergavenny, not long after the year 1108, was fettled a priory of canons regular, of the order of St. Auftin, dedicated to St. John the Baptift, and founded by Hugh Lacy. At firft her« were about forty religious, but the greateft part of them removed firft to the bifhop's palace in Hereford, and afterwards, in 1 J 36, to a place near Glocefter, which, from the mother mo- naftery, was alfo called Landony ; the revenues of the firft Landony were, upon the fuppreflion, valued at eighty-feven pounds nine (hillings and five-pence per annum. In the year 1113, Robert de Chandos founded and endowed a church at Gold-Cliff, near Aberg.venny, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen ; and gave jt to the abbey of Bee in Normandy. After the fuppreflion of alien priories, this was annexed to the abbey of Tewkf- bury, in Glocefterfhire, and afterwards to Eaton Col- lege ; and at the general fuppreflion, it was valued at one hundred and forty-four pounds eighteen (hillings and a penny per annum. Leaving Abergavenny, we pafied on to Ufk. This town (lands upon the river of the fame name, and be- twixt it another fmall river, at the diftance of one hun- dred and thirty miles from London ; but contains no- ibing worthy of notice. Here was formerly a priory of Benedictine nuns, founded before the year 1206, who at the fuppreflion had tifty-five pounds four (hillings and five-pence per annum. This town has a weekly market on Monday, afid tw4 annual fairs, viz. Monday after Trinity, and the eigh teenth of October, for horfes, lean cattle, and pedlary. We then palled on to Pontipole, or Ponty-Pool, a fmall town at the diftance of one hundred and thirty-fix miles from London, remarkable only for lome iron- mills. In the year 1697, there fell a fhower of hail in this town, which did confiderable damage, feveral of the hail-ftoncs meafuring eight inches in circumference. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and three an- nual fairs, viz. the twenty-fecond of April, the fifth of July, and the tenth of October, for horfes, lean cattle, and pedlary. Continuing our journey, we entered Carleon. Tha name of this town, in the ancient Britifh language, fignifies the town of the Legion. It derived this name from having been the ftation of the Legio Sceunda Bri- tannica in the time of the Romans. It is diftant from London one hundred and forty-one miles, and had for- merly three churches. In the time of the Britons, it was a kind of univerfity, and an archbifhop's fee ; and king Arthur is faid to have held his court here. In the time of the Romans it was elegantly built, and fur- rounded by a brick wall about three miles in compafs. It is fituated upon the river Ufk, over which it has a wooden bridge, and is now a fmall, inconfidcrable town. Carleon is the Ifea of Antoninus, which he places at the diftance of twelve miles from Barrium. Geoffrey of Monmouth relates, that in his time there were many remains of the ancient fplendor of this city* fuch as (lately palaces, very high towers, ruins of temples, theatres, hot baths, aqueducts, vaults, and fudatories. In the year 1602, here were found a chequered pavement, and a ftatue in a Roman habit, but with a quiver of arrows; but the head, hands, and feet, were broken off : from an infeription on a (tone found near the ftatue, it appears to have been that of Diana. At the fame time, the fragments of two (tone altars, with inferiptions, were dug up ; one of which appears to have been erected by Haterianus, lieutenant-general of Auguftus, and propraetor of the province of Cilicia. Here alfo was found a votive altar, from the infeription of which the name of the emperor Geta feems to have been erafed. It is related by feveral writers, that, long before the Saxons came into this county, there were three mag- nificent churches at Carleon, built by the ancient Bri- tons ; one of which, dedicated to the martyr Julius, had a convent of religious virgins; another, dedicated to his companion, St. Aaron, had a choir of canons; and the third had monk-, and was the metropolitan church of all Wales. It is more certain, that after the Conqueft, here was an abbot and monks of the Ciftertian order, whom kin 6$ a ton and a half of hay per acre. A little buck-wheat is cultivated for fvvine. • For potatoes they dig up grafs land, and dibble in the fets ; get fine crops of five or fix hundred buftiels per acre ; and very good wheat after them. Lime is their principal manure ; they lay nine quarters per acre, at two {hillings a quarter, befides loading ; they mix it with dung, earth, &c. Hollow draining is not uncommon in this county ; they dig them from two to four feet deep, generally until they come to a bed of gravel : they fill them up a foot deep with furnace, cinders, heath, ling, &c. &c. They are from four to eight inches wide at bottom, and twenty inches, or, two feet, at. top. Good grafs land lets from twenty to forty {hillings an acre. Molt of it is applied to feeding cows, for fupplying Birmingham with milk. Many farmers manure it. The product of cows in that way amounts from fix to ten pounds a cow; a middling one will give fix or {even gallons a day. The winter food is hay alone, of which they eat in general - three hundred ■weight a week. The calves do not fuck above two weeks. The hammer joifb per cow is one {hilling and fix-pence a week : in the winter, after calving, they are kept in the houfe. Sheep are kept only by farmers that have a right of commonage ; the profit they calculate at eight {hillings a head. The average fleece, two pounds and a half to three pounds. In their tillage they reckon fix horfes neceflary for the management of an hundred acres of arable land : they ufe two or three in a plough, and do an acre a day. The annual expence per horfe they calculate at five pounds : the futrimer joift two {hillings a week. They break up their fallows for turneps atChriftmas; the depth of ftirring in general from three to fix inches: much ftraw is here cut into chaff". The hire of a cart, three horfes, and driver, five {hillings, to five {hillings and fix-pence. Manufactures. The principal manufactures of this county are cloth and iron utenfils, all kinds of which are made here in great perfection." City, and Market Towns. The city is Litchfield ; and the market-towns are, Betley, Brewcod, Bromley-Abbots, Burton upon Trent, Cheadley, Ecclefhal], Kinver, Leek, Newcaftle under Line, Penkridge, Rugeley, Stafford, Stone, Tamworth, Tutburv, Uttoxeter, Walfhall, and Wolverhampton. We entered this county near Newport, in Shropfhire, and continued our journey to Stafford, the {hire-town, where the afiizes are held. It is an ancient borough, governed by a mayor, recorder, ten aldermen, twenty common-councilmen, a town-clerk, and two ferjeants at mace. The fituation of this town is low, upon the banks of the river Sow, one hundred and thirty-five miles from London. Here are two handfome parifh- churches 4 a free-fchool, and an hofpital, built, towards the clofe of the laft century, by Mr. Martin Noel, a native of this place : and here is a fpacious maiket- place, in which {lands the fhire hall, and a good ftone bridge over the Sow. Stafford is faid to have been founded by the widow of Ethelred, earl of Mercia, who made it the chief town of the {hire. It is well built and paved, and much increafed both in wealth and inhabitants, by its manufacture in cloth: the buildings are for the moft part of ftone and flate, and fome of them are very modern. The old cuftom of Borough- Englifh, which has frequently been mentioned in this work, is full kept up here. In Doomfday-book, which contains a furvey of England in the time of William the Conqueror, this town is termed a city ; but though it is in general efteemed more commodious for tranfadting the county bulinefs, it is now much inferior to Litchfield. William the Conqueror built a cattle here, which is now .entirely deftroyed ; and the town is thought to 49 have been once walled in, from fome remaining walls that are frill to be feen round it. By virtue of a ftatute of queen Elizabeth, not only the county afiizes, but the quarter feflions are always to be kept here. This town was incorporated by king John, and confirmed and enlarged in its charter by Edward IV. The barony of Stafford, from the Conqueror's reign to that of Edward III. is faid to have furpaffed in its extent moft others in England: there belonged to it fixty knighi?- fecs, and eighty villages were held of It ; -but by the attainder of Henry Stafford, duke of Bucks, it was difiolved. This town, as well as fome others in thi s county, is famous for excellent ale. Here is a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which was a very ancient free chapel royal, and given by king Stephen to the bifhop and chapters of Litchfield and C oventry. It confifted, upon the diffblution, of a dean, and thirteen prebendaries. The deanery was valued at thirty-five pounds thirteen {hillings and ten-pence ; but all the prebendaries at no more than thirty-eight pounds per annum. About the year 1180, here was a priory of Black canons, founded by Richard Peche, bifhop of Coyentrv and Litchfield, and dedicated to St. Thomas the Martyr, At the time of the diffblution, there were in this houfe feven religious, who had yearly revenues computed to be worth one hundred and ninety-eight pounds and nine-pence. In the north part of this town there was a houfe of Francifcan friars before the year 1282, the tenth o'f Edward I. valued upon the diffblution at thirty-five puunds thirteen {hillings and ten-pence per annum. There was in the cairle, which we have mentioned to have been formerly here, a free chapel dedicated to Sr. Nicholas. Ralph, lord Stafford, about the year 1344, gave to the friars Jleiemites, of the order of St. Aulfin, a piece of ground in the fouth fuburb of this town, called Forbridge, upon which were founded a church, dormi- tory, refectory, arid other ufeful buildings. Near the convent of the friars Heremites, in this town, there was a free chapel or hofpital, dedicated to St. John, which had a matter and feveral poor brethren ; and was valued, upon the fupprcfiion, at ten pounds per am.um. Here was alfo an hofpital or free chape], dedicated to St. Leonard ; which was valued, upon the diffblution, at four poundsthirteen {hillings and four-pence per annum. Stafford fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and five annual fairs, viz. Tuefday before Shrove-Tuefday, and the fourteenth of May, for horfes and cattle-, the twenty-ninth of June, for wool ; the fecond of October, for colts ; and the fourth of December, for cattle and fwine. At Gnoffall, fouth-weft of this town, there is a church, which had peculiar privileges and cuftoms belonging to it, as far back as the time of HenryT. This church was given by king Stephen to the cathedral of Litchfield ; but afterwards it became a royal free chapel, and was enjoyed by fecular canons at the diffb- lution, who had yearly revenues to the amount of forty- feven pounds fix {hillings and eight-pence. In the neighbourhood of Stafford is Ingeftra, where the late Walter Chetwynd, Efq; built, or rather rebuilt a very fine church at his own charge; and where the late lord vifcount Chetwynd has, with a profufion of expence, laid out the fineft park and gardens that are in this part of England. About a mile from this place lies Shuckborow-Manor, the feat of Thomas Anfon, Efq; elder brother to lord Anfon. The houfe ftands near the Trent ; an*d the gardens, which are laid out in a fine tafte, are fituated on the banks of the river. There are fome ruins, built with large ftones which the prefent poffeflbr found on the fpot, and which have a very good effect. At the bottom of the garden, in the public road, it a large {landing water, which in winter, and after great rains, is impaffable ; over it is a ftone bridge of tlnrty- nine arches, for horfe and foot paffengers, but for wheel- carriages it is too narrow. $ Not 66 STAFFOR DSHIRE. Not far from Shuckborow-Manor is Beaudefcrt, a famous old feat, faid to be built by Hugh Lupus, earl of Chefter. The name indeed intimates it to be of Norman or French original ; at prefent it is in the noble family of Paget. The park is exceeding fine, and the fituation delightfully pleafant ; but the houfc is ancient. In the park is a much efteemed piece of antiquity, which is a large camp or fortification, furrounded with a double trench, very large and deep. On the left of the road is Oufley, the feat of Sir William Oufley. The houfe is ancient, and fituated low among the marfhes, with the river running in front. * The park is feparated from the houfe and gardens, and {lands on a rifing ground on the right of the road. Jn the front of the houfe, next Oufley-Bridge, graws an old cedar-tree, whofe^ branches extend fo far, and fo low, as to cover intirely that front of the houfe. From hence we palled on to Penkridge. This town derives its name from its fituation upon the river Penk, over which it has a ftone bridge. It is one hundred and twenty-one miles diftant from London, and noted for having one of the moft confiderable fairs in the world for horfes, both for the faddle and draught. Penkridge, in the opinion of Mr. Camden, is the Pennocrucium of Antoninus ; but this town lying a mile or two north of the military way ; and there being fcarce any other grounds for this conjecture but the fimilitude of names, Dr. Plot, who wrote the natural hiftory of Stafford (hire, places the Pennocrucium at Streeton, upon Ikenild-ftreet, near Tutbury. There was a collegiate church at Penkridge, dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel, and given to the bifhops and churches of Litchfield and Coventry, before the reign of king Stephen. The advowfon of the church and the manor were granted by one Hugh Haofe to the archbifhop of Dublin, in Ireland. That bilhop at length became perpetual dean of this church, and hrJ the collation of all the prebendaries, who were thirteen in number about the time of the difTolution, and had revenues valued at one hundred and fix pounds fifteen {hillings and a penny per annum. This town has a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. the fecond of September, and the tenth of October, for faddle horfes and colts. At Lapley, fouth-weft of Penkridge, there was an alien priory of Black monks from the abbey of St. Remigius at Rheims, to which it was given in the time of Edward the ConfefTor, byAlgar, earl of Chefter. Leaving Penkridge, we palled on to Brewood, a pretty little town, with a free-fchool, one hundred miles from London. In the year 1678, on the night of the fourth of November, in the fpace of three hours, three fucceftive fhocks of an earthquake, accompanied with a rumbling noife like diftant thunder, were felt in this town, and the neighbourhood round it; and the night following, another lefs confiderable {hock, attended with the like rumbling noife, was perceived about this place. In the time of king Richard I. there was a fmall Benedictine nunnery in this town, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and valued upon the difTolution at eleven pounds one fhilling and fix-pence per annum. Brewood has a weekiy market on Tuefday, and an annual fair held on the nineteenth of September, for horfes and cattle. At Hilton, near this town, Henry de Audley, in the year 1223, founded an abbey of Ciftertian monks, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and valued, upon the fuppreffion, at eighty-nine pounds ten {hillings and a penny per annum. Wolverhampton, the next town we vifited, was an- ciently called Hampton ; and fo large a parifh, that it meafured near thirty miles in compafs, and contained feventecn villages. In the year 996, a priory was erected here by king Edgar, according to Sir William Dugdale, at the requeft of his dying fifter, Wulfruna ; but others fay, the lady herfelf was the founder : from this circumftance, the place was called Wulfrune's- Hampton, which has fince been corrupted into the prefent came. It ltands upon a high ground, one hundred and feventecn miles from London * and is a populous town, well built, and the ftreets handlomely paved ; but the inhabitants are fo ill fupplied with water, that all they receive, except what the rain furnifhes them with, is from four weak fprings of different qualities, known by the names of Pudding-well, Horfe- well, Wafhing-well, and Meat-well ; all appropriated to their feveral ufes. From the laft they fetch all the water which they ufe for boiling, or brewing, in leather budgets laid acrols a horfe, with a funnel at the top, by which they fill them ; and to the other three wells they carry their tripe, horfes, and linen. Notwith- ftanding the adjacent coal-mines, this town is efteemed remarkably healthy, which is afcribed' to its high fituation, and the great fcarcity of water, it has been obferved, the plague was hardly ever known here, but the fmall-pox often, which is faid to be an indication of the wholefomenefs of the air. Here is a collegiate church, which is annexed to the dean and chapter of Windfor; with a tower, in which are feven bells. The pulpit is very ancient, and of ftone. In the church are feveral old monuments, and a brafs ftatue of Sir Richard Levefon, who engaged theSpaniards under Sir Francis Drake ; and in the church-yard is an antique ftone crofs. A charity-fchool was erected here, and endowed by Stephen Jennings, a native of this place, and lord mayor of London in the year 1608 ; and here are two other charity-fchools, fupported by fubfeription ; one for fifty boys, who are taught and cloathed ; and the other for forty girls, part of whom are alio cloathed. The chief manufacturers of this town" are lockfmiths, who are efteemed the moft expert of that trade in England : they are fo curious in this art, that they can contrive a lock in fuch a manner, that if a fervant is fent into the clofet with the mafter key, or their own, it will fhew how many times that fervant has gone in at any diftance of time, and how many times the lock has been fhut for a whole year, fome of them beino- made todifcover five hundred or a thoufand times. It is alfo faid, that a very fine Jock was made in this town, fold for twenty pounds, which had a fet of chimes in it that would ftrike at any hour the owner fhould think fit. In the year 1394, Clement Lufon, and William Waterfall, founded an hofpital at this place, for one prieft and fix poor men, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary; but its revenues are not known. Wolverhampton has a weekly market on Wednefday, and an annual fair held on the tenth of July, for com- modities of all forts. Wrottefley, north-weft of Wolverhampton, deferves particular mention, as it contains the ruins of an old city, fuppofed to have been either Britifh or Danjfh. It appears to have bee,n three or four miles in circum- ference. Stones of a prodigious fize have been found here ; one of which, after having been hewn, is faid to have made an hundred loads ; and another, after ten loads were cut off from it, required thirty yoke of oxen to draw it, and was made into a great ciftern in a malt- houfe here, which wets thirty-feven ftrikes of barley at one time. In the hall of Dudley-Caftle, about four miles from Wolverhampton, there is a table of one intire oak plank, which was originally feventy-two feet nine inches long, and three feet broad, but was reduced to its prefent length of fifty-two feet, to fuit the hall it ftands in. At Tettenhall, near Wolverhampton, there is a pafture called the Clots, in which, if any horned cattle graze for one fummer, their colour, however black before, will, it is faid, turn to a whitifh dun. Not far from Wolverhampton, at a place called Stetfold, there is a church, the fteeple of which was repaired upwards of a century ago ; and it has been affirmed by the inhabitants, that the top-ftone of this fteeple being thrown by one of the workmen from the pinnacle into the church-yard, broke into two pieces, and difcovered a living toad in the centre of it, which died foon after it was expofed to the air. There STAFFORDSHIRE. 67 There was found, in the year 1700, at Pattingham, weft of Wolverhampton, a large torquis or chain of fine gold, for the arm or neck : it meafured two feet in length, and weighed three pounds two ounces : the links were curioufly wreathed, and fo very flexible, that it would fit feveral fizes. The torquis was wore as well by the ancient Britons as by the Romans. We next pafled through Kinver, or Kinfare, a place of no note, one hundred and nine miles from London. It is fuppofed to have derived its name from fome Saxon king's having made this his head quarters, or from his having flopped here upon a march. Here is an ancient fortification, of an oblong form, the longeft fide meafuring about three hundred yards : and in a piece of pafture-ground near this town, there is a large ftone, fix feet high, and twelve feet in circumference, which the inhabitants of the neighbourhood call Battle Stone, or Bait Stone. In the top of this ftone are two notches, which form the refemblance of three heads. Some perfons fuppofe the ftone to have been a Britifh deity ; and others are of opinion, that it was put up by the ancient Britons as a memorial of a battle fought in this place. Upon Afhwood Heath, north-eaft of Kinver, there is a large intrenchment, which is fuppofed to have been Roman ; and at Barrow-hill, in this neighbourhood, are two uniform Roman tumuli, or barrows, coofifting of folid rock, which Dr. Plot fuppofes to have been petrified by fubterraneous heat. At Abbots-Caftle, north-weft of Kinver, upon the borders of Shropfhire, there is an ancient fortification, which ftands on a high promontory, and is fuppofed to have been Britifh. It has a fteep ridge for half a mile together, with hoilows cut in the ground, over which the tents are fuppofed to have been pitched. From hence we palled on to Walfhall, or Walfall, pleafanfly fituated on a hill, by the fide of a river of the fame name, one hundred and thirteen miles from London. Jt is a corporation town, governed by a mayor and other magiftrates : in and near it are feveral mines of iron, wherewith the townfmen make fpurs, bridle-bits, ftirrups, buckles, &c. which are the chief manufactures of this place, and in which the inhabitants carry on a confiderable trade. There is an ancient and extraordinary cuftom in this town, of diftributing, on the eve of Epiphany, a prefent of one penny to all perfons then refiding in the town, whether ftrangers or inhabitants. Walfhall has a weekly market on Tuefday, and three annual fairs, viz. the twentv-fourth of February, and Whitfun-Tuefday, for horfes and cattle ; and Tuefday before the tenth of October, for horfes, cattle, cheefe, and onions. At Horborn, fouth of Walfhall, on the borders of Warwickfhire, refided one John Sands, who died in the year 1625, at the age of one hundred and forty years; and his wife lived to be one hundred and twenty. In a place called Berry Bank, at Darlefton, about a mile fouth-weft of Walfhall, are the ruins of a large caftle, which, according to tradition, was the feat of Wolphere, the Mercian king, who murdered his two fons for embracing Chriftianity. At Sandwell, fouth of Walfhall, William, fon of Guy de OfFney, about the beginning of the reign of king Richard I. and in the year iicq, founded a fmall priory of Benedictine monks : it was dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and was fupprefled by Cardinal Wolfey in the reign of Henry VIII. when its revenues were rated at ihirty-eight pounds eight fhillings and feven- pencc per annum. Continuing our courfe, we entered Litchfield, or Lichfield. The name of this town is a corruption ; Licidfcld, the ancient Britifh name, which fignifies A • Field of Carcafes, a great flaughter of Chriftians having been made here in the time of the perfecution under the emperor Dioclefian. This city, united with that of Coventry, in War- wickfhire, is the fee of a bifhop, who is called Bifhop of Litchfield and Coventry : it is both a city and county incorporated by king Edward VI. and governed by two bailiffs, twenty-four burgelTes, a recorder, a fherifr, a fteward, and other officers. The diitricTt comprehended, in the county of this citv is ten or twelve miles in circumference ; and the fheriff rides round it in pro- ceilion on the eighth of September annually, and then gives the corporation and neighbouring gentry a genteel entertainment. Litchfield ftands in a valley, one hundred and eighteen miles from London, and three miles fouth of the Trent; and is divided by a ftream which runs into that river. The divifion on the fouth fide of this ftream is called the City, and that on the north is called the Clofe, from its being inclofed by a wall and a dry ditch on every fide, except that next the city : both parts arc connected by two bridges, but the city is by much the largeft. Litchfield is by fome perfons thought to be the moft confiderable city in the Jk>rth-weft of England, Chefter excepted. It is a long, ftraggling place, but has fome hand fome houfes ; the ftreets are well paved, and kept clean ; and this being a great thoroughfare from London to the north-weft counties, here are feveral very good inns. This city has a cathedral, and three parifh-churches; The cathedral, which ftands in the Clofe, was founded in the year 1148: it fuffered much in the civil wars under Charles I. but it was fo effectually repaired foon after the Reftoration, that it is now, without exception, one of the nobleft Gothic ftructures in England. It extends in length, on the infide, four hundred and fifty feet, of which the choir is one hundred and ten, and it is eighty feet broad. There is a fine lefty fteeple over the middle cf '.he church. The front is adorned with a good portico, and over that are two correfponding fpires. Above the portico alfo are twenty-fix ftatues of the prophets, apoftles, and king of Judah as large as life. There are alfo feveral ftatues in the infide of this church. The choir is in great part paved with alabafter and cannel-coal, in imitation of black and white marble; and behind the choir is a neat chapel. The prebendaries (rails are of excellent workmanfhip : they were erected at the charge of fome gentlemen in the county ; and each flail bears the name and arms of the donor. Though this church, upon the whole, is very elegant, it is nevertheleis flat, and wants projection, or as it is termed by architects, relief to give it boldnefs. The two towers are much too low for their breadth, and appear very heavy for want of windows, efpecially where the bells hang. The circular ftair-cafes projecting octo- gonally at one angle only of each, without any of the other three angles anfwering, is a great irregularity ; but the fpires above are carried up in an exceeding beautiful tafle, and far exceed any thing of the kind ever feen. The middle fpire and tower are much higher than thofe at the weft end, and are equally beautiful. The great window over the middle door is very large, and its pediment finely adorned, a large cro:s termi* nating the top of it. To this cathedral belongs a bifhop, dean, precentor, chancellor, treafurer, four archdeacons, twenty-feven prebendaries, five prieft-vicars, feven lay-clerks, or finging-men, eight chorifters, and other officers and fervants. The revenues of this bifhopric were valued, upon the diflblution, at feven hundred and ninety-five pounds feventeen fhillings and fix-pence per annum. In the Clofe are, a palace for the bifhop, a houfe for the dean, and very handfome houfes for the prebendaries. The fub-chanter, fathrift, vicars, aud clerks of the cathedral, feem to have been collegiate fince the year 1240 : their revenues were valued, upon the diflblution, at two hundred and two pounds one {hilling per annum. The chorifters of this church had alfo diftinct eftates appropriated to them, which were valued, on the fup- preffion, at thirty-nine pounds nine fhillings and feven- pence per annum. Ofwy, king of Mercia, is faid to have built a cathedral church, in the year 656, or 657 ; and about the year 789, king Orf'a, by the favour of pope Adrian, made it an archiepifcopal fee ; but about ten years afterwards, Litchfield loft this honour, and its church and diocefe were, again fubjected to the metropolitical fee of Canter- bury 68 S T A F F O R D S 1 1 I R E. bury. In the year 1075, this fee was tranflated to Chefter, andYrom thence in 1102, to Coventry; but in a ihert time afterwards the bifhops fettled here- again, and Rogc/ de Clinton about the year 1140, not only founded the cathedral we have above defcribed, which he dedicated to St. Mary and St. Chadd, but alfo renorcd and augmented the chapter. Here are three other parifh churches, but nothing in them remarkable, except that, to St. Michael's belongs a church-yard which contains fix or feven acres of ground. In this city there is a gaol for felons and debtors ap- prehended within its liberties ; a free-fchool, and a large and well endowed hofpital for the relief of the the poor ; and in the neighbourhood of this city there are frequent horfe races. This place is famous for fine ale. About the year 1 229, Alexander, bifhop of Litchfield, founded a houfe of Grey-friars in the fouth part of the ci;y ; and near it is a college or priory dedicated to St. John, in which was a mafter and fellows, who, upon the fuppreffion, were endowed with yearly revenues to the amount of 46 1. 18s. id. The founder of this hofpital is not known, but it is ftill in being. Here was formerly a caftle, but it has long fince been deftroyed. Litchfield fends two members to parliament ; has two weekly markets, on Tuefday and Friday, and three annual fairs, viz. Shrove-Monday, for cattle, fheep, bacon, cheefe, and iron ; May 12, for fheep and other cattle ; and Friday before November 8, for geefe and cheefe. Not far from this city, there is a ditch which affords a kind of natural phofphoras ; for the mud of this ditch, rubbed upon any thing in tie dark, emits a faint bluifh flame for near a quarter of an hour. At Radmore, north-weft of Litchfield, there was an abbey of Ciftertian monks, founded by the Emprefs Maud, about the year 1 140, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; but this being found an inconvenient place, the monks were removed to Stanley, near the city of Coventry, in Warwickfhire. Roger, bifhop of Chefter, in theyear 11 40, founded a religious houfe at Torwell, north-weft of Litchfield. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and was at firft called an abbey, and pofTeiled by regular canons, or Jiermits, but afterwards by Benedictine nuns, and became a fmall priory, which was fupprefied bv Thomas Wolfey, bifhop of York. From this place we proceeded to Tarn worth. The name of this town is derived from the river Tame, upon the banks of which it ftands, and the Saxon word Scoith, which fignifies a yard, farm, or an ifland. This town is fo equally divided by the river Tame, that one half of it, which ftands upon the weftern bank of that river, is in Staffordfhire, and the other half in Warwickfhire; for which reafon each fide chufes a reprefentative in parliament; and the borough is by fome writers placed in Staffordfhire, and by others in Warwickfhire. Tamworth is a fine pleafant trading town 107 miles from London, the moft ancient in this part of the country ; and formerly the royal feat of the Mercian kings. It was deftroyed by the Danes, and rebuilt by queen Ethelfleda, who added a ftrong tower to it, which flood below that which is the prefent .caftle. This borough continued in the crown from the time of Edward the Confeflbr to Henry III. when it was granted in fee-farm ; after which it decayed, and had almoft loft the name of borough ; but queen Elizabeth upon the petition of the townfmen made it a corporation, under whofe charter it is governed, by a high fteward, two bailiffs, one for each county, a recorder, a town- cluk, an under fteward, twenty-four principal bur- geffes, two ferjeants at mace, and other officers. The corporation have power to keep a .three weeks court of record, and a court-leet twice a year ; and they have a gaol and a common feal. In the StafTordfhire-fide of this town there is a church, which is collegiate, a grammar-fchool, founded ,. , • ., ;. ; , •)•-'[■•■ itMi by queen Elizabeth, and a fine hofpital, founded by Mr. Guy, the founder of the noble hofpital that bears his name in the borough of Southwa k, of which mention has been made in the account of London. This, town has a confiderable trade in narrow cloths, and other manufactures. Here are ftill to be feen the remains of a large trench, called King's Ditch, in which fpear heads, and bone:, both of men and horfes, have been dug t:p. l!efore the end of the tenth centui y, here was a con- vent of religious, concerning which no particulars are known. Here likewife was an hofpital dedicated to St James, which was rated upon the difi'olution at three pounds fix fhillings and eight-pence per annum. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, viz. May 4, for cattle and fheep ; July 26, for cattle and wool ; and October 24, for cattle of all forts. At Wiggington, north of Tamworth, are feveral Roman tumuli, called here lows, fome of which having been dug up, difcovered afhes, charcoal, and pieces of burnt bones. South-weft of Tamworth, at a place called Canwell, Geva, daughter of Hugh earl of Chefter, and widow of Jeffrey Riddell, about the year 11 42, founded a priory of Bemdidtine monks, which was dedicated to St. Mary, St. Giles, and All Saints. It went to decay, and being a poor cell for one monk was fupprefied by Cardinal Wolfey, in the reign of Henry VIII. We next came to Rugeley, a handforre well built town, one hundred and twenty fix miles from London, in the road from that city to Lancashire and Chefhire : it contains nothing worthy of notice but having a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. June 26, and October 21, for faddle-horfes and colts. On one fide of Cankwood-chafe, in the neighbour- hood of this town, there is a paper-mill. At Blithbury, near Rugeley, v/as a fmall monaftery, founded about the beginning of the reign oi king Stephen, by Hugh. Malveyfin : it was dedicated to bt. Giles, and conlifted of nuns of the order of St. Benedict. Before the year 1146, there was an hermitage at Colwich, near Rugeley, which was given by Nicholas de Grefelei Fitz Nigel!, to the priory of Kenelvvonb, near the city of Coventry, in Warwickfhire; upon which here was placed a fmall convent of Black canons. Continuing our journey we arrived at Burton, cn the north fide of the Trent, one hundred and twenty- three miles from London. It was formerly remarkable for an abbey, and for its alabafler works, but at prefent 'tis chiefly noted for its excellent ale. Here was for- merly a caftle which belonged to the Ferrar's family; but the principal ftructure this town has now to boaft of is its bridge over the Trent, which, except the bridge of Weftmmfter, is thought to be the fineft piece of workmanfhip of any civil public building in England. It is built of fquared free-ftone, is above a quarter of a mile in length, and confifts of thirty-feven arches, through which the river runs and here divides into three channels. The parifh church joins to the decayed abbey. This houfe was founded and endowed by Wal- frie Spot, in the year 1009, for Benedictine monks, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and St. Modwin, and valued upon the difi'olution at two hundred and fixty- feven pounds fcuiteen fhillings and tin ee- pence per annum. Its abbot being mitred fate in parliament. In the year 1 541, king Henry VIII. founded on the fite of this abbey, a church and college, for a dean and canon, dedicated to Jefus Chnft, and the Virgin Mary, but this college was diffolved before the thirty-firft of January, 1545. Burton confifts chiefly of one long flreet, extending from the abbey to the bridge Here was lately, if there is not ftill, a good manufacture of cloth ; which was carried on to great advantage. Barges come up hither, by the help of art, with a full ftream, in a deep, fafe channel. This STAFFOR DSHIRE. 69 This town has a weekly market on Thurfday, and four annual fairs, viz. April 5, for black cattle and horfes; Holy-Thurfday, for black cattle; July 16, of no note ; and October 29, a confiderable fair for horfes and horned cattle. Betwixt the rivets Trent, Dove, and Blith, near this town, is Needwood, a large foreft, with many parts in it, where the neighbouring gentry frequently divert themfelves with hunting and hoi le-races. From Burton we game to Tutbury, or Stutefbury, fituated near the Dove, a little before it falls into the Trent, one hundred and twenty miles from London. He had a caftle with a final! monaftery, built by Henry de Ferrars, a Norman, to whom it was given by William the Conqueror. Mr. Camden fays this was a noble Itructure, and commanded the low country, by its fituation on an alabafter hill. It was deftroyed by king Henry III. but John of Gaunt, duke of Lancafter, after- wards built theGatehoufe, and the walls round it. At this prefent time it is a good old houfe, walled on all fides but one, where the hill is fo ftcep that it requires no fortification ; notwithstanding which it is inclofed with a ftrong pole. It has a profptct eaftward over the Dove and Trent, as far as Nottingham ; and on the fouth, and fouth eaft, are all woodlands, in which are many parks, moft of them belong to the caftle and manor of Tutbury ; to which great part of the inhab tants of the adjacent country are homagers, and of which they hold their eftates. This town has a weekly market on Tucfday, and three annual fairs, viz. February 14, Auguft 15, and Decembci 1, fmall fairs for horned cattle Bromley Abbots, the next town we entered, was at firft called Bromley onlv, and had the additional epithet Abbots, from an abbey of which it was formerly oppofite, to diftinguifh it from fome other towns in this county called Bromjey. It is fometimes alfo called Bromley Pagets, from a lord Paget, to whom it was granted by the crown at the diliblution of monafteries. It is one hundred and twenty-eight miles from London, upon the borders of Derbyfhire, but contains nothing remarkable Dr. Plot fays, the inhabitants of this place had formerly a fport, on a New-Years-Day and Twelfth-Day, called the Hobby- Horfe dance, from a pe 1 Ton's riding upon the figure of a horfe made of thin boards, with a bow and arrow in his hand, with which he made a mapping no.feas he drew it to and fro, keep ing time with the mufic, while fix other men danced the hay, and other country dances, with each a tain- deer's head on his lhoulJers, half white, half red. To this hobby-horfe belonged a pot, which the reeves of the town kept, and filled with cakes and ale, and to which all the fpeclators gave a penny for themfelves and families; wherewith they paid for the cakes and ale, and with what remained, maintained their poor, and repaired their church. This town has a weekly market on Tuefday, and three annual fairs, viz. Thurfday before Midlent Sunday May 22, and Auguft 74, for horfes and horned cattle. At Hanbury, on the eaft fide of Bromley Abbots, there was a nunnery, founded about the year 680, by Ethelred, king of Mercia, but deftroyed by the Danes. Uttoxeter, or Utceftcr frauds on a gentle afcent, upon the weftern bank of the river Dove, one hundred and twenty-five miles from London. It is tolerable large, the fireets broad, clean, and well paved ; but the houfes in general are meanly built. Here is a fpacious market- place; with a crofs in the center, and a good ftone bridge over the Dove. The market is one of the moft confiderable in thc-fe parts for cattle, fheep, fwine, butter, cheefe, corn, and all forts of provifions : fome of the London cheefe-mongers have factors here, who, it is faid, buy up cheefe to the value of five hundred pounds every market day. In this t wn and neighbourhood are many confiderable iron manufactories. The weekly market is on Wednefday ; and here are three annual fairs, viz. May 6, and July 31, for black cattle and +9 fheep; and September 19, for ftrong black colts, and horned cattle. At Checkley, north-weft of Uttoxeter, is a church, and in the church-yard three tall ftones, each in form, of a pyramid, and engraved with a variety of figures. The inhabitants of this place have a tradition, that there was an engagement in Naked-Field, in the neigh- bourhood, between two armies, one armed, and the other unarmed ; that in one of the armies three bifhops were killed; and that in memory of the bifhops, theie ftones were erected. They are fuppofed to be Danifh monuments. About the year 1146, Richard Bacon built an abbey for Black canons, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, at Rocefter, north-eaft of Uttoxeter. At the time of the diffolution this abbey had nine religious^ who had yearly revenues to the value of one hundred pounds two fhillings and ten-pence. We next pafl'ed through Stone, on the north bank of the river Trent, one hundred and forty miles from London, and in the great road from that city to Chefter. It is well provided with good inns, has a fmall charity fchool, and a free grammar fchool, founded by the reverend Mr. Thomas Allen. This town is faid to have derived its name from a heap of ftones thrown up here, according to a cuftom of the Saxons, to perpetuate the memory of a murder committed by Wulphere, a king of Mercia, on his two fons Wolfadus and Rufinus for embracing Chrif- tianity ; of which crime he afterwards fo fincerely re- pented, that he turned Chriftian himfelf, deftroyed all the heathen temples in his kingdom, which he converted into Chriftian churches and monafteries ; and in the year 670 founded a college of fecular canons, which he dedicated to his two fons. Thefe fecular canons were afterwards changed into regular canons, who were en- dowed upon the fuppreflion with one hundred and twenty-nine pounds two fhillings and eleven-pence per annum. This town has a weekly market on Tuefday, and four annual fairs, viz. Tuefday after Midlent, Shrovc- Tucfuay, Whitfun-Tuefday, and July 25, for cattle. From this place we continued our journey to Ec- clefhall, a pretty good town, one hundred and thirty- fix miles from London. It has a chanty fchool, and is famous for pedlars ware. This town has a weekly market on Friday, and four annual fairs, viz. Midlent Thurfday, Holy-Thurfday, Auguft c,, and the firft Friday in November, for black cattle, fheep, and faddle horfes. Here was once a caftle, built,, or at leaft repaired, in the reign of Edward I. by Walter Longton, bifhop of Litchfield, and lord-high treafurer of England, to whom the manor then belonged. Nevvcaftle under Line, the next town we vifited, is pleafantly fituated on a branch of the Trent, called the Line, one hundred and forty-nine miles from London. It was formerly called Newcaftle, from a caftle now in ruins, built there by Henry III. and by way of dif- tinction from an older caftle which flood at Chefter- town, a village in the neighbourhood. It was after- wards called Newcaftle under Line from its fituation on the river Line, and to diftinguifh it from Newcaftle upon Tine, in the county of Northumberland. This town was firft incorporated by Henry I. and afterwards by queen Elizabeth, and Charles II. It is governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, and twenty-four common-council men ; and the corporation has a court, which hold pleas for actions under forty fhillings. The ftreets are broad and well paved, but the build- ings low, and moftly thatched. Here were formerly four churches, which are now reduced to one. Here are confiderable manufactories of fhoes and hats ; the former employs about an hundred men, who earn from ten- pence to two fhillings a day ; in the latter, four hun- dred hands, at leaft, are employed. The men earn from feven fhillings to ten fhillings a week; the women three fhillings, and the children one fliilling. T This S II R O F SHIRE. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Monday, and four annual fairs, viz. Eafter-Monday, Whitfun-Monday, Monday before the icth of July, Monday after the 1 1 th of September, and November 6, ' all for cattle. At hi rflem, and the neighbouring villages about three miles to the northward of Newcnitle under Line, the manufacture for making what is called Staffbrd- fhire ware is carried on with amazing fuccefs. There are three hundred houfes, which are calculated to employ, upon an average, twenty hands each, or fix thoufand in the whole ; but if all the variety of people that labour in what may be called the preparation for employment of the immediate manufactures, are reckoned, the whole number cannot be Ms than ten thoufand : and this manufacture, already fo con- fidcrable, is increafing every day. The period from whence its great demand may be' dated, is about the year 1765, when Mr. Wedge- wood, the principal manufacturer, introduced the cuam-colourcd ware ; and fince that time the in- creafe has been amazingly rapid. Large quantities are exported to Germany, Ireland, Holland, Ruffia, Spain, the Eaft-Indies, and America; and fome of the finclt forts to France. A confiderable (hopkeeper from the Pont-neuf at Paris, was lately at Burflem, and purchafed a large quantity. The common clay of the county is ufed for the ordinary forts; the finer kinds are made of clay from Devonshire, chiefly from Biddeford ; but the flints taken cut of the chalk-pits in Kent, near the Thames, are all brought rough by fea, either to Liverpool or Hull, and fo by Burton upon Trent. There is no conjecture formed for fixing the manufacture upon this fpot, except for the convenience of coals which are dug plentifully in the neighbourhood. The flints are firlt ground in mills, and th* clay prepared by breaking, warning, and fifting. When thele necefiary operations are performed, the two in- gredients are mixed in the requifite proportions. The flints are firft purchafed by people in different parts of the county, who, after calcining and grinding them to powder, fell them to the manufacturers by the peck. The ingredients being properly mixed, the mafs is laid on kilns to evaporate the rnoifture; but this ope- ration requires the greateft care ; for it may be rendered too dry. It is next beat with large wooden hammers, when it is in a proper condition for throwing, or mould- ing into the proper forms in which it is to remain. The latter is the moft difficult work in the whole manu- facture. A boy turns a vertical wheel, which, by means of thongs, turns a fmall horizontal one, juft before the thrower with fuch velocity, that he prefently forms the Jump of clay laid on it into any figure he plcafes with x ; _ers. When the ware is thus formed, it is glazed, and baked in the kilns erected for that purpofe. The earnings of the- people' employed in this manu- facture are various : grinders here, feven (hillings a Wefek; wafhers and breaker:;, eight fhillings ; throwers, from nine (hillings to twelve; engine lath-men, from ten fhillings to twelve ; handlers, and other kinds of finifhers, for adding fprigs, horns, &c. from nine fhillings to twelve; gilders, twelve {hillings the men, and feven fhillings and fix-pence the women ; preflers, eight fhillings to nine; painters, ten (hillings to twelve ; moulders in plainer of paris, eight fhillings. But in general the men earn from feven ftiiilings to twelve a week; and the women from five (hillings to eight ; boys from two (hillings to three a week. In the neighbourhood of Newcaftle is a ftone- cjuarry, where Dr. Plat tells us a (tone was found, in the middle of which was a human fkull, with all the teeth in it. This fact the doctor produces as an irrefragable inflance of the growth of (tone. At Trcntham, about three miles from Newcaftle under Line, king Ethclred founded a nunnery before the year 683. In the reign of king Henry V. this houfe was refounded by Randal, earl of Chefter, for canons of the order of St. Auguftinc. It was de- dicated to the Virgin Mary, and All Saints, and had, about the time of the fuppreffion, feven religious, and the houfe was endowed with annual revenues amounting to one hundred and twenty-one pounds three (hillings and two-pence. Not far from where this ancient ftructurt "»«;od, is the noble feat of earl Gower, which is efteemed the fined retreat in this county. The houfe is a modern ftructur.^, built after the model of the Queen's palace in . t. Jame^'s-park ; but is fituated fo near the church, that the entrance into the houfe is rendered very inconvenient, the church and church yard being in front. The park is remarkably beautiful, and has two large pieces of water in it ; fiom the edge of the water rife feveral eminences covered with wood, which has a fine effect as you pafs along the road to Newcaftle. The park is walled round, and from the high grounds in it is a beautiful and extenfive view of the adjacent country. Betley is an inconfiderable market town one hundred and fifty-two miles from London. It has nothing re- markable, except a fmall market on Tuefday, and an annual fair on the thirty-firft of July. Cheadle, the next place we vilited, is alfo a fmall market town fituated near the fource of the Dove, one hundred and thirty fix miles from London. Here is a charity-fchool, a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. Holy Thurfday, for black cattle; and the twenty-firft of Auguft, for horfes and black cattle. At Alton, about three miles from Cheadle, are the ruins of a caftle built before the conqueft. In the year 1173, it was in the pofieffion of Bertram de Verdun. Leek, which we next vifited, is fituated in the mountainous parts of the county, called the Moo;e- lands, one hundred and thirty- feven' miles from London. Here is a manufacture of buttons, and the town is noted for its excellent ale. Here is a weekly narket on Wednefday, and feven annual fairs, viz. Wednefday before Candlemas, Eaftcr-Wednefday, May 18, Vv'hit- fun-Wednefday, July 3, July 28, and November the thirteenth, for cattle and pedlars ware. In the Blue Hills near this' town are feveral coal- mines, and a fait ftream ifiues from thence, which tinges the (tones and earth, forming the channel in which it runs of a rufty colour, and turns an infufion of galls into ink. Here are alfo rocks of a moft: fur- prizing height, without any turf or mould upon them. At Dieu le Cres, near Leek, there v/as a Ciftertian abbey, founded by Randal, the third earl of Chefter, in the year 12 14. It was dedicated to St. Mary and St. Benedict, and endowed at the revolution with yearly revenues, amounting to two hundred and twenty-feven pounds five (hillings. Curious Plants fund in Staftordfhire. The female, or yew-leaved fir-tree, abies famina* J. B. found at Laynton. The pear-like fcrvice, forbus pyriformis ; found in feveral parts of the Moorelands. White-berried elder, fambucus fruRu albo, Ger. found plentifully in the hedges near the village of Cambridge. The Iefrer fea-ftarwart, trip-ilium minus vulgarc ; found in a place called the March, near the place where a fait fpring rifes, fretting away the grafs, and forming a pond of fait water. Members of Parliament for Staffordshire. This county fends ten members to parliament; two knights of (hire for the county ; two citizens for Litchfield ; and two reprefentatives for each of the following boroughs ; Stafford, Tamworth, and New- caftle under Line. CHESHIRE. [ 7i ] C H E S Or the County Palatine THIS county is bounded on the north by Lan- caihire; on the eaft and fouth-eaft by Derbyshire and StafFordOiire ; on the fouth by Shropfhire, and part of Flintshire ; and on the weft and north-well by Den- bighlhire, and the Irifti fea, into which a corner of it fhoots out, and forms a peninfula, near fixceen miles lone, and feven broad, called VViral. The fea break- in^on each fide of this peninfula, forms two Creeks; one between the north-eaft fide of the peninfula, and the fouth -weft coaft of Lancashire; the other between the fouth- weft fule of it, and the north-eaft coaft of Fiinifhire : thefe two creeks receive all the rivers of the county. Chefhire is about forty-five miles long, twenty-five broad, and one hundred and twenty in circumference. It is divided into feven hundreds ; in wnich are one city, twelve market towns, one hundred and twenty-four villages, eighty-fix parifh churches, and thirty-eight chapels; abou: twenty four thoufand houfes, and one hundred and twenty-five thoufand in- habitants. It lies in the province of York, and diocefe of Chefter; and the town of Middiewich, which is nearly in the eer ier of the county is one hundred and fifty-fix miles from London. Chefhire was one of the counties which, in the Britifh rimes, was inhabited hy the Cornavii ; and under the Saxon Heptarchy it was included in the kingdom of Merc : a. It continued in the pofilffion of the defen- dants of Creda", the founder cf the Mercian kingdom, about 200 years, and then fell into the hands of the Danes. About the year eight hundred and fe\enty feven, Alfred the Great, having recovered it from the Danes, made a province of the Weft Saxon kingdom, and appointed Etheldred, a defcendant of the kings of Mercia, to be its governor, or fhirereeve. After the death of Etheldred, the government of this county devolved upon his widow Ethelfleda ; and at her death defcended to Etheldred's pofterky, till, with the reft of England, it came once more into the hands of the .Danes, under, Canute the Great. Canute com- mitted it to the goverment of Leofric, who affumed the old tide of E»rl cr Comes. From Leofric it defcended to his fon Algar, and from Aigar to Edwin, who were fucceffiyely earls of Chefter; 2nd in the time of Edwin it was fubdued by William the Norman, who gave it, as a principality, firft to Gerherd, a nobleman of Flanders, who had greatly alTifted him in his enterprize againft England, and then to Hugh Lupres his nephew, to whom he gawe a palatine or fovereign jurifdiction, by a grant of the county, " to hold to him and his heirs-, as freely by the fword, as the king held the crown qf England." By this grant Chefnire became a county palatine, with fovereign jurifdiction within its own precincts, in fo high a degree, that Lupus, and many of his fuccelTors, had parliaments, confifting of their own barons and. tenants, who were not bound by the general acts of the general parliament of the kingdom. This power of the earls of Chefter, which was origi- nally repofed in them to enable them more effectually to exprefs any attempts of the neighbouring people to recover their independency, was, after the kingdom had fubmiued quietly to the conqueror, no longer necef- fary for this purpofe ; and being at length become for- midable to the king bimfelf, Henry VIII. reftrained it, and rendered it dependant upon the crown; though all pleas concerning property, whether real or perfonal, are ftill heard and determined in the county, though HIRE, of CHESTER. cafes of felony and treafon are determined by the judges in their circuits. There are in this county, feveral mineral fprings, particularly at Stockport there is a chalybeat, faid to be ftronger than that at Tunbridge. In the morafles, or moffes, whence the country people cut their turf or peat for fuel, there are marine fhells in great plenty, pine cones, nuts and fhells, trunks of fir-trees, and fir-apples, with many other exotic fubftances. The moraffes, in which thefe fubftances are found, are frequently upon the fummits of high mountains ; and the learned have been greatly divided in their opinions how they came there. The general opinion however is, that they were brought thither by the deluge, not merely from their fituation, but becaufe feven or eight vaft trees are frequently found much clofer to each other than it was pofiible for them to grow ; and under thefe trees are frequently found the exuvia of animals, as fhells and bones of fillies ; and particularly the head of a hippopotamus was dug up in one of thefe moors, fome years ago, and fhewn to Dr. Leigh, who has written the natuial hiftory of this county. There are$ however, fubftances of a much later than the general delude found among thefe trees and exuvia, particu- larly a brafs kettle, a mill-ftone, and fome amber beads, which were given to the doctor foon after they were found. The fir-trees are dug up by the peafants, and are fo full of turpentine, that they are cut out into Hips and ufed inftead of candles. jjodior Leigh alfo mentions a kind of fheep, in the park of Stipperly, belonging to John Leigh of Ad- lington, which differed from all other fheep in the kingdom ; he fuppofes them to be natives of this county, and fays they are larger than moft other fheep, and covered rather with hair than wool ; and that all of them have four horns, which are fometimes of an extraordinary fize : the two horns neareft the neck ftand erect, like thofe of goats, but larger; while the two next the forehead are carved like thofe of other fheep. The doctor doubts whether thefe fheep are a particular fpecies, or whether they might not be produced at firft by goats and fheep engendering together ; but as the words at firft feern to imply that they had afterwards increafed by engf ndering among themfelves, this cannot be admitted, without departing from the general opinion univerfally confirmed with refpect to mules, that crea- tures of a mixed breed are a fort of monfters, and never propagate their kind. The flefh of thefe Iheep was different from that of other mutton, and had fome refemblance in colour and tafte to the flefh of goats. RIVERS. The principal rivers of this county, are the Merfee, the Weaver, and the Dee. The Merfee runs from the north-eaft weftward, and dividing this county from Lancafhire, falls into the northern creek of the penin- fula. The Weaver rifes in Shropfhire, runs from fouth to north, and falls into the northern creek. The Dee rifes from two fprings near Bala, a market town in Merionythftiire, in Wales, and is a name fuppofed to be derived, from Dwy, which in the ancient Britifh language fignifies the number two ; it runs north-eaft through Merionythfhire, and Denbighfhire, and then directing its courfe north, and feparating Chefhire from North Wales, falls into the fouthern creek of the penin- tula. The Dee abounds with falmon; and it is re- mark; ble CUES HIRE. markable that the longeft and heavieft rains never caufe it to overflow, though it always floods in the neighbouring fields, when the wind blows frefh at fouth-weft. The Britifh name of this river is DyfFyr- dwy, a word fignifying the water of two fp ings. The Romans called it Deva probably from DyfFyr ; and its prefent name is probably derived from the fame fource. Of the names of the Merfee and the Weaver, we have no accounts. Befides thefe rivers there are feveral meres and lakes of confiderable extent, which abound with carp, tench, bream, eels, and other filh. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Chefhirc. The rivers Weaver and Merfee, are by nature na- vigable from Liverpool, in Lancafhire, to Fradfham- bridge, in this county. And by an act of parliament pafled in the feventh year of the reign of George I. certain truftees were empowered to make the Weaver navigable from Fradfliam-bridge to Winsford-bridge. They were alfo empowered by the fame act to extend that navigation, by making Wittun Brooke navigable, from its junctions with the Weaver up to Witton- bridge. Thefe navigations have been long fince perfected, and trade and commerce thereby greatly extended, to the benefit of the public. But as the north-eaft parts of the county of Chefter lie remote from thefe, or any other navigations, though from the circumftances of their fituation, produce, and the number and employment of their inhabitants, they want them moft. A canal has been therefore propofed, and is now carrying into execution, to be carried from the navigable part of Witton-brooke at Witton-bridg;e, near Noithwich, to the market towns of Knutsford, Maclesfield, and by Stockport to Manchefter. But a much greater fcheme has been lately propofed, and is now carrying into execution, for extending a canal from the Trent to the Merfee, to rpen a communication between the ports of Hull and Liverpool. We have already in our account of StafFordfhire given a detail of the aftonifhing works carrying on at Hare-caftle. It has been propofed to carry this canal over the river Merfee, in an aquedudt at Runcorn ; and the duke of Bridgewater propofes to extend his canal to Runcorn ; by w hich means this canal will undoubtedly be the beft way of fending goods of all kinds from Liverpool to Manchefter. The attempt is amazing. The river Merfee, at Runecorn, is five hundred and fixty yards wide ; and the water, at fpring tides, flows near eighteen feet perpendicular. The mafts of veflels which navigate the river itfelf are faid to be feventy feet high. Add to this, that the river is fometimes very rough and bcifterous. Ships of very large burden formerly pafied up the river Dee to Chefter ; but the river was at laft fo choked up Chat fhips of burden could not come within fome miles of it. An act therefore pafixd in the year 1732, for rendering it navigable; and accordingly the undertakers raifed a fum of forty-feven thoufand eight hundred and thirty pounds, which they expended in cutting and per- fecting a new channel from the river Dee, of near ten miles in length, and by proper dams and fluices turned the river into this channel ; fo that it is now navigable for (hips of confiderable burden to the quay of Chefter, where they load and unload with great fafety and con- venience. This fuccefs encouraged the undertakers to apply again to parliament in 1741, for further powers for completing their work, and for uniting the under- takers into a company for keeping this canal and works in proper repair. AIR and SOIL. The air of this county is ferene and healthful, pro- portionable colder than the more fouthern parts of the ifland. The country is in general flat and open, though it rifes into hills on the borders of StafFordfhire and Derbyshire, and contains feveral forefts, two of which, called Delamere and Maclesfield, are of con- fiderable extent. The foil in many parts is naturally fertile ; and its fertility is greatly encreafed by a kind of marie, or fat clay, of two forts, one white and the other red, which the peafants find in great abundance, and fpread upon their lands as manure ; corn and grafs is thus produced with the moft plentiful encreafe ; and the pafture is faid to be the fweeteft of any in the king- dom. There are however feveral large tracts of land covered with heath and mofs, which the inhabitants can ufe only for fuel. The mofly tracts confift of a kind of moorifh boggy earth ; the inhabitants call them mofles, and diftinguilh them into white, g>ey, and black, from the colour of the mofs that grows upon them. The white mofles, or bogs, are evidently compares of the leaves, feeds, flowers, ftalks, and roots of hei lbs, plants, or fhrubs. The grey confifts of the fame fubftances in a higher degree of putrefaction ; and the only dif- ferences of the black is, that in this the putrefaction is perfect; the grey is harder and more ponderous than the white ; and the black is clofer and more btuminous than either. From thefe mofles, fquare pieces like brick are dug out, and Lid in the fun to dry for fuel, and are called turfs. Remarks on the Husbandry cf Chefhire. Between Dunham and Knutsford, land letts from twenty fhillings to thirty-five fhillings per acre. Farms rife from forty pounds to two hundred pounds a year. They reckon the product of a cow at five pounds. About Knutsford there are chiefly two foils, clay and fand. The average rent is about fixteen Anilines an acre. Farms are, in general, about twenty pounds, or thirty pounds, but fome of one hundred and fifty pounds, and two hundred pounds a year. Their courfes, 1. Fallow 2. Wheat 2. Barley 4. Oats And, 1. Fallow 2. Wheat 3. Barley 4. Clover for two or three years 5. Wheat. The quantity of wheat fown is but trifling. For barley they plough three or four times, fow three bufhels, and gain, at an average, five quarters. For oats they plough once, fow five bufhels, and gain from forty to fifty. Very few turneps are fown by farmers, but fome by gentlemen. The farmers are getting more into tillage than for- merly, and to their prejudice, for barley will only grow with much manure. Trie town of Manchefter letting up malt-kilns in oppofition to thofe of Yorkfhire, is what encourages the farmers to extend their tillage. Clover they fow with barley, mow it twice, and gain two ton and a half the firft time, and about a ton the fecond. Potatoes they prepare for by digging, generally grafs land for the firft crop ; they flice and dibble them in one foot afunder every way, twenty bufhels to the acre : hand-hoe and hand-weed. The produce gene- rally from three to four bufhels from a perch, or about five hundred per acie: — Wheat after them. The ex- pences are, Digging, 2 I. Weeding, Sec. 15/. Taking up, i^d per bufhel. Marie is their chief manure ; they have it brown, red, blue, and alfo fhell marie. They lay two fquare roods and an half per acre, which coft them from 3/. to 4/. lay it chiefly upon grafs. Shell marie is of fo excellent a nature, that it lafts very good for ten years, and the land conftantly cropped — a hufbandry not much to the credit of the Chefhire farmers. They know nothing of chopping ftubble, but ftack their bay at home. Good CHESHIRE. 73 Good grafs land letts at about twenty-five (hillings fer acre; they apply it chiefly to'jdairying, and reckon that an acre and half is l'ufficient for the fummer feeding a cow. Their breed of horned cattle a mongrel, be- tween the long and fhort. The product of a cow they reckon at from five pounds to eight pounds; Many give in cheefe alone to the amount of fix pounds ten fhiliings : Cheefe, - - - 6/. 0 s. Butter, - 10 Calf, - - - o io 7 io The average quantity of milk per day about four gallons. They do not keep above three fwine to we cows. Their winter food is hay and ilraw ; of «.he hrft j they eat about two ton. A dairy ma, J can take care of fifteen. The fummer joift is twenty-firft. In he winter they are always kept in the houfe tied up..; It is fuppofed in general, that the famous Chelnire cheefe depends more on the quality of the land, than on any particular receipt It has been found, that liming and enriching the land has made it the worfe for cheefe. Cold clays are beneficial foils for c'leefe ; in ge neral, the worft land makes thebeft cheefe. Many of the great dairy farmers keep their cow: like running horfes, littered down as well ; kept perfectly clean, and fed conflantly with grou.'d oats; ftraw only till Chriftmas. Some of thefemake tight, nine, and ten pounds profit per cow. The breed even of thefe Is in rreneral fma'l ; will not fat to above thirty-two ftor~ None of the Lancafhire long horns will equal them in milVing. Some farmers have got a crof;- breed by-LaJicafhire bulls, but it has been found prejudiced to the dairy. In the management of their milk, the laft night's is fet for cream, and the milk, with the new of this morn, mixed for the cheefe; likewife moft of the cream of laft night's milk, warmed to the warmth of the new milk. They ufe nothing but rennet tor coagulation. — The cheefes weigh from fifteen pounds to one hundred and twenty pounds. Their tillage is too trifling to admit a general defcrip- tton ; but they reckon the annual expence of a horfe at fix pounds. They break up their ftubbies for a fallow in May or June, ftir three inches deep. The price of ploughing per acre, four {hillings and fix-pence, and five fhiliings. Know nothing or cutting ftraw into chaff. In the hiring and flocking of farms they reckon two hundred pounds fufheient for one of fifty pounds a year. Land fells at thirty and thirty-two years purchafe. Tythes both gathered and compounded. Poor rates three fhiliings in the pound. The employ- ment chiefly fpinning of flax. All drink tea. The farmers carry their corn feven miles ; that is, to the duke of Bridgewater's navigation. Leafes run chiefly for three lives. The little farmers in this country are reckoned more wretched than even day-labourers. LABOUR. In harveft, js.6d. and beer. In hay-time, n. 6 d. and ditto. In winter, i s. Mowing grafs, is. 6 d. to 2 s. Ditching, 4 d. to yd. The foil about Holm's Chapel is chiefly of fand and clay; lets about twenty fhiliings at an average. Farms from twenty pounds to three hundred a year. Their courfe generally 1. Fallow 2. Wheat 3. Oats 4. Clover. And, 1. Fallow 5o 2. Barley 3. Wheat. Of wheat the average crop is about twenty bufhels, of barley thirty, and of oaths as much. Marie is here the grand manure ; they lay about a rood and half on an acre, which colls from one pound ten fhiliings to two pounds, and lafts from twenty to forty years ; it is of a brown colour mixed with olue, They alfo lime their land, generally mix it with dung for wheat : it cods them ten-pence the Cwt. Their grafs land iets from twenty fhiliings to forty per acre, it is all uted in dairy ing. Of meadow land they reckon an acre and half will fummer ieed a cow. but in the uplands it takes three acres. They are pretty careful in manuring the grafs with lime and earth mixed cogecher. Their cows are of an ordinary breed, loofe boned • feme farmers r ^ve aimed at an improvement by Lan- cafii're bulls, but it does not anfwer, except in beauty. ! age quantity of milk is ah'.jt five gallons; but of Mr. Verne i's 'V?ar this place ha-ve given ten which in the time or king Edward the Elder was inlarged ; and the caftle, which was before without the walls, was now encompalled with them. King Edgar being here in the 13th year of his reign, required the attendance of all the kings and princes of the illand of ritain to pay him homage. Accordingly, the kings of Scotland, Cumberland, and Man, and five petty kings of Wales, having taken an oath of fidelity to him, he went with tnem next day on board a barge in the river Dee, and caufed all thofe princes to row him up and down the river, where they laboured at the oar like fo many bargemen, while himfelf fat in triumph fleering the helm, and was rowed to and from St. John's church, and his palace; upon which he is re- ported to have faid, Tunc demum pojfe /uccejjores fuos glorlari fe reges Angl'tet ejfe^ cum taut a prarogatlva honor um fruerentur. In the reign of Edward III. we read, that Edward the Black Prince came hither with other great lords to protect the juftices itinerant, who were threatened by the people of Chefter ; and that as king Edward III. had held this earldom during his father's life-time, fo he fettled it by patent on the (aid Black Prince, his fon ; fince which all the fucceeding kings of England, when they created their fons and heirs apparent princes of Wales, created them alio earls of Chefter. Richard II. as has been already obferved in the general hiftory of the county, had fo particular a kindnefs for this place, that he erected it into a principality, annexing to it the caftle of Leon, with the territories of Bromfield and Yale, the caftle of Chirk, with Chirkland, the caftle of Ofweflre, with the hundred and the townfhips belonging to it, the caftles of Ifabella and de le Ley, with other large pof- feffiens which had come to the crown by the attainder of Richard, earl of Arundel. King Pvic : iard himfelf was ftiled Princeps Ceftriae, thuu o h it was an unfortunate title for him, this being the piac to which he was firft brought prifoner from Flint-Caftle, where he had agreed to reiign his cro.vn, 'and the place from which he was conveyed to the tower of London. His fuccefibr Henry IV. made his fon Henry, juftice of Chefter, and conftable of the caftle. He alio repealed the act, which erected this earldom into a principality; but it ftill re- tained the prerogative of a county palatine, and con- tinued to give title of earl to the princes of Wales, and dukes of Cornwall. When king Henry VIII. erected this city into an epifcopal fee, an act of parliament was palled, impower- ing the freeholders of this city and county to elect mem- bers to parliament. The {heriffs of this city, Richard Mafley, and Peter Lycherbaud, had fuch a quarrel in 1569, that it ended in a battle, for which they were forced to repair that part of the wall which runs between the New Tower and the Water-Gate. In the civil wars this city held out a {lege for king Charles I. againft the parliament. In 1659, when one protector was dead, another depofed, and the nation was fallen into fuch a ftate of anarchy, that the people longed for fome fettlemcnt, Sir George Booth, who had never taken arms againft the parliament, declared for a free one, and feized this city, together with Warrington and Manchefter ; but on general Lambert's approach, he thought fit to leave them, and to give him battle j in which he was defeated, and afterwards taken in woman's apparel. In 1695, a mint was eftablifhed here for coin- ing money. What remains relating to this city is a defcription of its fituation, building, trade and government. Lucian the monk, who lived about fix hundred years ago, fpeaking of this place, writes thus: * It is to be con- 4 fideved, that the city of Chefter is a place very plea- * fantly feated, and being in the weft pnrts of Britain, * it flood very convenient to receive the Roman legion* 50 c that were transported hither ; and befides, ' proper for watching the frontiers of the emp ' was a proper key to Ireland. For being oppr>fit< * the north parts of Ireland, it opened a pa Mage i ' for fhips, and mariners, who were continually in ' tion to and again. Befides, it lies curioufly, not only * for profpect towards Rome, and the empire, but 4 whole earth ; a fpeclacle expofed to the eye of all the •/ * world. So that from hence may be difcerncd the great * actions of the world, and the firft fprings and confe- * quents of them, the perfons who, the places where, * and the times when they were tranfacted. We may ' alfo take example from the ill conduct of them to ' difcern the bafe and mean things, and learn to avoid f them; The city has four gates, anfwering the four ' winds. On the eaft fide it has a profpect towards ' India, on the weft towards Ireland, and on the north * towards the Greater Norway ; and laftly, on the fouth 4 to that little corner wherein God's vengeance has con- ' fined the Britons for their civil wars and diiietinons, ' which heretofore changed the name of Britain ; nto 1 England, and how they live to this day, their neigh- ' bours know to their fcrrow. Moreover, God has bleft * and enriched Chefter with a river running pleaiantiy, 4 and full of fifh, by the city walls ; and on the fouth ' fide with a harbour to fhips coming from Gafcoigne, ' Spain, Ireland, and Germany; who, by Chnft's af- * fiftance, and by the labour and conduct of the mari- ' ners, repair hither, and fupply them with all fort of * commodities ; fo that being comforted by the grace of * God in all things, we drink wine very plentifully, for ' thole countries have abundance of vineyards. More- 4 over, the open fea ceafes not to vifit us every day with 4 a tide ; which, according as the broad fhelves of fands 4 are open or fhut by tides and ebb?, is wont more or 4 lefs to change, or fend one tning or other; and by e reciprocal ebb and flow, either to bring in or carry 9 out.' The houfes are, generally fpeaking, difiinguifhed from all the buildings in Britain. They are for moft part of timber very large and fpacious ; but they are built with galleries, piazzas, or covered walls before them, in which the people, who walk, are fo hid, that to look up or down the ftreets, one fees no body ftirring, except with horfes, carts, &c. and yet they mdy be faid to be full of people. By the fame means alfo the (hops are, as it were, hid, little or no part of them being to be feen, unlefs one is under thofe rows, or juft oppofite to a houfe. This was formerly reckoned the glo¥y and* beauty of Chefter, but now its difgrace and deformity; for to obtain this conveniency of walking dry from one end of the ftreet to the other when it rains, the houfes are lefTened, whofe fronts would otherwife come out into the ftreets as far as thofe galleries ; alfo the f.;ops are all dark and clofe, and many ways incommcdious. Yet, with all this inconveniency and difadvantage, 'tis a very handfome city ; and in thofe ftreets where the rows do not cloud the buildings, there are very laro-e and well- built houfes. The ftreets are generally ftrait, large, and very broad, and crofting one another in ftrait lines, meet in the centre as at Chichefter. The walls of the city, firft erected by iEdelfleda a Mercian lady, anno 908, are firm, and built of very large ftone. On the fouth fide of the town, and on a rifing ground, furrounded in part by its river, is a very ftrong caftle, to which the walls on that fide join ; and from thence 'tis a moft agreeable walk round the whole city upon the walls, only it is intercepted by fome of the towers over the gates. It is kept in good repair, and has always a ftrong ganifon, for it is of very great im- portance when any military preparations are making for Ireland, or any diftuibances railed on that fide of the country, it being a good place for magazines, as it is a frontier either towards Wales or towards the north, as appeared in the late rebellion at Prefton, many of the prifoners taken there being afterwards brought hither to be fecured. The city confifts of four large ftreets, which make an exact crofs, with the town-houfe and exchange in the middle, which is a neat building, fup- ported by columns thirteen foot high of one ftone each. X From 7 g e H E s From (he city wa..s there is a proipect of Flintshire and the mountains of Wales. Here is a noble, firm, fpacious and very high-built bridge, with a grate at each end ; and about a dozen arches over the Dee, which here falls into the fea. It is the largeft and longeft river on the weft fide of Britain, between the Severn and Clyde ; but a ftrange river both f jr the force of its current, and the quantity of its wa- ters in the winter feafons,and upon hafty rains or fnows; for then the mountains of Wales* from whence they come, pour down fuch floods, that the height of the waters is fometimes very frightful ; and not many years ago, fuch an inundation happened here, as drowned and d ove away all their new-built key for the landing and fhipping off goods, with all the ware-houfes and ftore- houfes newly erected there, and all the goods that were in them, to the incredible lofs and damage of the mer- chants and tradefmem There are eleven parifhes in this city, with well-built churches to them all, which are alfo pretty well filled. The great church or cathedral, a venerable pile, looks as antique as the caftle. It is faid they were both built by Hugh Lupus nephew to William the Conqueror ; but fome fay that he only finifhed and endowed the church, and that Edgar founded it. In this church they pre- tend, according to Camden, to fhew the monument of Henry IV. Emperor of Germany, who having abdicated the imperial crown, came and lived here as an hermit ; though it is certain that he did not abdicate, but was treacheroufly taken prifoner as he was going to the dyet at Mentz, after he had reigned fifty years, in which he fought fixty-fix battles, wherein he was generally vic- torious ; which, fays Dr. Nicholfon, was more than Marcus Marcellus, Julius Caefar, or any Roman general could boaft of. Neverthelefs this brave prince was fo unfortunate, that befides his being depofed, he was denied a prebend by the bifhop of Spire, in the very church which himfelf had built and endowed, and died in mifery. The adjacent country is thericheft in paftuiage of any on the weft-fide of Britain, as is plain from the produce of its cheefe, known all the world over by the name of Chefhire cheefe. Of this it is faid that London alone takes off" fourteen thoufand tons a year ; that the navi- gation of the Trent and Severn carries off near eight thoufand tons; and the kingdoms of Scotland and Ire- land, above four thoufand tuns more ; befides all that goes away by land -carriage, and is confumed in Wales, and in the feveral inland counties : fo that the whole produce is computed to be at leaft thirty thoufand tons a year. And indeed if we confider the confumption of the cities of Worcefter, Gloucefter, Hereford, and Briftol, with all the populous part of England down the Severn, and the Severn Sea, to Devonfhire and Cornwal, where they have hardly any other cheefe, the account will not appear extravagant. The epifcopal fee was firft tranflated to this city from Litchfield, immediately after the conqueft, by Peter, bifhop of Litchfield ; which is the reafon why the bifhops of Litchfield are fometimes called by our hiftorians bifhops of Chefter; and why the faid Peter is by the Saxon annals fometimes called Epifcopus Licefeldenfis five Ceftrenfis. It was afterwards tranflated to Coventry, and from thence to the ancient fee again. So that Chefter remained without this dignity, till king Henry VIII. reftored it in the twenty-third of his reign, to contain within its jurifdiction this county, Lancafhire, Rich- mond, &c. and to be itfelf contained within the province of York. This city was made a corporation and county by king Henry VII. and is governed by a mayor, twenty-four aldermen, two fheriffs, and forty common-council-men. The cathedral, with the bifhop's palace, and the preben- daries houfes, ftand on the north fide of the city. In the caftle, where the earls formerly affembled their par- liament 6 , is a ftately hall, in which the palatine court and aflizes are held twice a year, with commodious apartments for lodging the judges, a hall for the prince's exchequer-court, offices for the records, Icq. a prifon for HIRE. the county, an office for a prothonotary, and a tower afcribed to Julius Csefar. Here are kept the courts for the county, which, as was faid before, being a palatinate, has a very extenfive jurifdiction ftill left, though cur- tailed of many of its privileges by king Henry VIII. for all caufes relating to the county, (criminal caufes ex- cepted ; which, as iri other places, are left to the judges on their circuit) are determined in thefe courts, held by a chamberlain, a judge fpecial, or chiefjuftice of Chefter, two barons of the exchequer, three ferjeants at law, an attorney, efcheator, &c. A Dutch colony fettled here fome years ago, by whofe ingenuity and induftry, the traffick of this city was much augmented. The city is fquare, with battlements on the walls, four gates, and three pofterns, and is two miles in compafs. The ma- nufacture of moft note here is tobacco-pipes, which it is faid are the beft in Europe, being made of clay brought from the Ifle of White, Pool, and Biddiford. Here are affemblies every week, and horfe-races are run every St. George's Day beyond the Rhodee, which is a fine large low green, often overflowed by the river Dee. The diocefe, which at the firft foundation of the fee was fubjecled to the province of Canterbury, though afterwards to York, contain two hundred and fifty-fix parifhes in it, of which one hundred and two are impro- priate. Here is a charity-fchool for forty boys, who are taught, and cloathed, and maintained by a fund of five hundred and feventy pounds a year fubferiptiens. The fuburbs of Hanbrid is called by the Welffi Treboeth, i. e. the Burnt Town, it having been fre- quently burnt by them in their incurfions. This city is plentifully fupplied with water from the river Dee, by mills erected for this purpofe on it about 1690, and by the water-tower, which is one of the gates on the bridge. The keeping of the city gates was formerly reckoned a very honourable office, and feveral noble houfes pretended to it. Eaft-gate was committed to the cuftody of the earl of Oxford, Bridge-gate to the earl of Shrewfbury, Water-gate to the earl of Derby, and North-gate to the mayor of the city. Another gate is called Pepper-gate, which has given occafion to a proverb here, " When the daughter is ftolen, fhut Pepper-gate." It is a poftern on the eaft fide of the town, which in ancient time one of its mayors fhut up, becaufe his daughter, who had been playing with fome maidens at ftool-ball, in Pepper-ftreet, was ftolen from him, and conveyed away through this gate. The center of the city, at which meet the four ftreets facing the cardinal winds, is called the Pentife; from whence a man has at once a pleafant profpect of all four. The new-exchange, or common-hall, which was begun in 1695, and finifhed in 1699, is one hundred and twenty-five foot long, forty-five broad, eighty-five in height, and is a very noble ftructure ; as is the fhire hall, built in the caftle, a handfome large place, fomewhac like that at Weftminfter. The chamberlain has all the jurifdiction of a chancellor within Chefhire, the inha- bitants of which, for the enjoyment of their liberties, were to pay at the change of every owner of the earldom, three thoufand marks, and the county of Flint, parcel of this palatinate, two thoufand marks. The fee farm- rents are vefted in the princes of Wales, as Earls of Chefter. Thefe they hold with the caftle and profits of the temporalities of the bifhopric; and the freemen fwear to be true to the king and earl. The officers eftabTifhed here, are a governor of the city and caftle, lieutenant- governor, with a mafter-gunner, ftore-keeper, and fur- bifher of fmall-arms : and for the receipt of the cuftoms, here are a collector, cuftomer, comptroller, fearcher, and twenty-one fubordinate officers. The cathedral is three hundred and feventy foot long, eighty foot broad within the body and iles, and two hundred and fixty in breadth in the great crofs ile from north to fouth. The walls here being built, like the generality of the houfes, of ftone, which is a foft reddifh grit, and very brittle, are often out of repair, fo that here are officers on purpofe, called murengers, who gradually refit them where they are moft worn out. CHESHIRE. In the year 165'?, an altar was dug up here with this infcription : J. O. M. Tanaro T. Elupius Galer. Prae- sens Gwia. Pri. Leg. XX. W. Commodo. Et Laterano Cos. V. S. L. M. Which is read as follo ws : Jovi Optimo Maximo 'Ta- naro Titus Elupius Galerius Prajens Gubemator Principi- bus Legionis Vicefimcs Vitti ,cis Varle^ia Commodo et La- terano Confulibus Votum Solvit Luben: Merita. Another altar was found i.>me tune afterwards, with this infcription : Pro. sal. dominorum. nn. invictissimorum-*- augg. genio loci flavius. long trib. mil. leg. xx. — longinus fi. eus. It was difcovered in digging a cellar, at the houfe of one Heath, lying with thejnfcription downward, upon a ftone two feet fquare, which is fuppofed to have been its pedeftal ; on the left fide of it was a flower pot ; on the top a catyla, or cavity ; in the bottom of that cavity a young face, fuppofed to be that of the genius ; on the back, ornaments of drapery of uncertain figures ; on the right fide, Genius, ftanding with a cornucopia in his left hand ; the right was cut off" by the workmen in digging it out, before they knew what it was. The foundation was broad, confifting of many large ftones, and it lay deep. The earth about it was folid, but of feveral colours, and mixed with allies. In this earth, near the foundation, were found the bones, horns, and heads of feveral creatures, fuppofed to have been fa- crificed there ; with two coins, one of brafs, and the other of copper ; on the firft fide of the brafs coin was this infcription : Imp. Caes. Vefpaftan. Aug. Cos. III. and the face of the emperor ; on the reverfe, Victoria jtugujli S. C. and a winged victory ftanding. On the firft fide of the copper coin was, Fl. Val. Conjian- tius Nob. C. and the face of Conftantius ; on the the reverfe, Genie Populi Romani y and a genius ftand- ing, holding a facrifical bowl in the right hand, and in the left a cornucopia. In a ruinous fabric, called the chapter, there was dif- covered) about thirty years ago, a fkelettJn, fuppofed to be the remains of Hugh Lupus : the bones were very frefti, and in their natural pofition : they were wrapped in leather, and contained in a ftone coffin ; the legs were bound together at the ancles, and the firing was intire. In the cathedral, among other ancient monu- ments, is the tomb of Henry IV. emperor of Germany, who is faid to have abdicated his kingdom, and lived the life of an hermit, at Chefter, totally unknown, till he difcovered himfelf to the prieft, who confefTed him juft before he expired. J There was early in the Saxon times a religious houfe in this city, probably a. nunnery, dedicated to St. Peter, and St. Paul ; whither, as a place of fafety from the outrages of the Danes, the remains of St. Werburg were brought from Heanburgh, or Hanbury, in StafFordfhire, in the year 875. St. Werburgh is faid to have been the daughter of Wulferus, the firft Chrif- tian king of Mercia, and to have profefled herfelf a nun very early in life, under Audria, her aunt, at Ely. She lived moftly at Weedon, in Northamptonfhire, died at Trentham, in StafFordfhire, and was buried at Hanbury; whence, after near two hundred years, (he was removed to Chefter. From the fhrine of this virgin princefs, the church of St. Peter and St. Paul was called St. Wer- burg's. It was fome time after totally ruined, by the inteftine commotions of the times ; but it was afterwards rebuilt by Edelfleda, for fecular canons ; and more li- berally endowed by king Edmond, king Edgar, earl Leofric, and other benefactors, in honour of St. Wer- burg. Hugh Lupus, in the year 1093, at the inftiga- tion of the celebrated Anfelm, who was afterwards archbifhop of Canterbury, expelled the feculars, and eftablifhed in their ftead an abbot, and convent of Benedictine monks, from Bee, in Normandy, in whofe pofleffion St. Werburg's church continued, till the gene- ral diflblution, in the thirty-third year of Henry VIII. Henry, however, reftored the foundation to a dean and fix prebendaries, directing the church to be from that time ftiled the church of Chrift and the Blefled Virgin, and making Chefter once more the feat of a bifho^ The yearly revenues were then rated at one thoufand pounds, five fhillings and eleven-pence. The ancient collegiate church Of St. John the Baptift, in the eaft part of this city, is faid, by Giraldus Com- brenfis, who, about the year 1200, was bifhop elect of St. Davids, to have been founded by king Ethelred, in the year 689 ; but it is more probable, that Ethelred, who was earl of Mercia, in the year 906, either founded* or at leaft rebuilt it with the reft of the city ; for not long afterwards there was a celebrated church, or mo- naftery, at Chefter, dedicated to this Saint, which, in the next century was repaired by earl Leofric ; and was endowed with houfes and lands at the time of the Conqueror's furvey. It is faid that Peter, bifhop of Litchfield, when he removed the epifcopal fee hither, made this church his cathedral. Here was, till the fuppreffion, a dean, and feven prebendaries, or canons, who were in the collation of the bifhop of Litchfield ; befides feven vicars, two clerks, four chorifters, lex- tons, and other fervants. Their yearly income in the twenty-fixth of Henry VIII. after rcprifals, was no more than twenty feven pounds, feventcen fhillings and four-pence. Not far from St. John's, was a monaftery, dedicated to the Blefled Virgin; which, at the fuppreflion, was rated at fixty-fix pounds, eighteen fhillings and four- . pence per annum. There was likewife a monaftery in this city, dedicated to St. Michael, before the year 1162, as appears by a charter of Henry II. to the canons of Norton. In the year 1279, Thomas Stadham, gentleman, erected a houfe of Carmelite, or White Friars, in the parifh of St. Martin ; and one of the bifhops of Litch- field, founded a houfe of Black or Preaching Friars, in the fame parifh. In the parifh of the Holy Trinity, there was alfo a houfe of Grey or Francifcan Friars, which is believed to be as ancient as the time of Henry III. who began his reign in the year 12 16. The city of Chefter fends two members to parliament; has two weekly markets held on Wednefday, and Satur- day, and three annual fairs, viz. Laft Thurfday in February, for cattle ; July the fifth, and October the tenth, for cattle, Irifh-linen, cloths, hard-ware, hops, drapery goods, and Manchefter wares. A few miles diftant from Chefter, and on the fouth fide of the entrance into the peninfula, called Wiral, there was anciently a royal caftlc, but of which there are now but very few remains. A little to the eaft-ward of the Wiral lies the foreft of Delamere, where Elfleda built a city which fhe called Caderburg, the happy town. Camden tells us that in his time, a 'heap of rubbifh, the ruins of this city, re- mained, and was called the Chamber of the foreft. From this city Eadfburgh-Hall, an old building near this place, which gives name to an eminent family, and one of the hundreds of this county, was probably de- nominated. At a little diftance are the ruins of Finborough, another town faid to have been built by the fame laiy. Not far from Delamere Foreft, near a village c Jied Bunbury, ftands Beefton-caftle, which was built by Ranulph the third, the fixth earl of Chefter after the conqueft, wnen he returned from the holy war. Thi» Ranulph began his government in the year 11 80, and having governed fomewhat more than fifty years, died 1232. The caftle, which covers a great extent of ground, ftands upon a hill, and is fortified, as well by the mountains that almoft furround it, as by its wall, and the great number of its towers : the chief of thefe towers was fupplied with water from a well that is now ninety-one yards deep, though it is fuppofed to be near half filled up with rubbifh, that has either fallen into it by accident, or been thrown in by defign. This Cj&I 1 is now in a ruinous condition ; but Leland, in iome verfes which he wrote upon it, fays, that if oLd pro- phefies are to be believed, it will in fome future time recover its original fplendor. Near this place there are many traces of ditches, and other military works. At c H E Porombprdugn, anciently Brunnefburgh, in Wiral, n:ar the river Merfee, was a monaftery, founded by jEcle'.flcda, which focn decayed ; and the church was appropriated to the abbey of Chefter, and has fince been made part of the endowment of that dean and chapter. There was another religious houfe at Runcorn, near the mouth of the Merfee, faid to have been founded by the lady /Edelfleda : and in the year 1133, William Fitz Negell, built a priory for regular canons of the order of St.^AufHn. This priory in the reign of king Stephen, before the year 1 148, was removed^to Norton-Hall, where there was alfo a priory., which, at the diflblution, was valued at one hundred and eighty pounds feven (hillings and fix-pence per annum. AtPoulton, in Wiral hundred, there was a Ciftertian abbey, built and endowed by Robert Randal, brother to the fecond earl of Chefter, in the year 1153. This abbey being in perpetual danger from the incurfions of the Welch, the monks were tranflated to Dieulacres, in Staftbrdfhire. At Barrow, on the fouth-weft" fide of Delamere-foreft, there was a preceptory of the Knights Hofpitalers of St. John of Jerufalem, which, with Yeveley in Derbyfhire, was valued at ninety-three pounds three (hillings and four pence per annu??i. At Hillbree, or Hilbury, a little barren ifland, which lies off" the end of Wiral, in the mouth of the river Dee; there is faid to have been once a convent of Benedictine monks, which was a cell to Chefter; and was dedicated to the Blcfled Virgin Mary. Four miles eaft of Chefter, at a place called Tarvin, or Tervin, there was an hofpital endowed out of the tithes of the parifh church, by Alexander Stavenfby, bifhop of Litchfield, about the year 1230. At Boughton, juft without the eaft gate of the city Chefter, there was an alms-houfe for poor lepers, as early as the year 1309. We now proceeded on our journey and arrived at Frodfham, a fea port town, fituated on the river Weaver, near its conflux with the Merfee, one hundred and fixty- two miles from London. It confifts of one long ftreet, at the weft end of which there is a caftle^ that for many ages paft was the feat of the earls Rivers. Here is a ftone bridge over the Weaver ; and about a mile from the town, in the way to Halton, is another of brick, called Frodfham-bridge. The church ftands at a field's length from the town, near a lofty hill, called Frod- (ham-hill, the higheft in the county, on which there ufed formerly to be a beacon. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday ; and two an- nual fairs, viz. May the fourth, and Auguft the twenty- firft, for cattle and pedlars ware. There is a fmall wild white-heart cherry, peculiar to a little fpot in this county, near Frodfham ; where there is alfo a ftone-rcck, in which the belemnites, or thunder- bolt, has been frequently found. In the year 1 1 72, John Conftable, of Chefter, founded an abbey at Stanley, or Stanlow, near Frodfham, for forty Ciftertian monks ; and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. The monks of this monaftery being incom- moded by the overflowing of the fea, or the waters of Merfee, were removed to Whalley, in Lancafhire. Four monks, however, remained here, fo that Stanley HIRE. continued to be a fmall town till the time of the ge- neral diflblution. From hence we paired on to Halton, or Haulton, that is, High-Town, fo called from its fituation, which is on a hill, about two miles north of Frodfham, and one hundred and fixty-three miles from London. Here is a caftle, faid to have been built by Hugh Lupus, to whom the county was granted by William the Conqueror, which, with the barony, belongs to the dutchy of Lancafter, and maintains a large jurifdiclion in the county round it, by the name of Halton Fee, or the Honour of Halton ; having a court of record, and a prifon. The king's officers of the dutchy keep a law- day at the caftle every year, about Michaelmas; and a court is held there once a fortnight, to determine all matters within their jurifdiclion. The inhabitants claim a market here by prefcription ; but the town was not formerly confidered as a market town, though it is now generally regiftered as fuch. The weekly market here is held on Saturday ; and the annual fair, Lady-day, April the fifth. At Norton-hall, a feat of Sir Thomas Brook, near the northern boundary of the county, in the neighbour- hood of Halton ; and about four miles diftant from War- rington, in Lancafhire, is a remarkable echo. There is a wall, about one hundred and twenty yards long, at one end of which are fome fteps that lead into the houfe ; near the middle there is a round tower with a gate in it ; and at the other end another tower and e;ate of the fame kind : if a flute is founded on the fteps is is fcarce heard at the firft gate; but at the diftance of thirty yards from it, nearer to the farther tower, is heard very diftindlly, not however as coming from the fteps where it is founded, but from the farther tower; but upon approaching ten yards, ftill nearer to the farther tower, it is no longer heard from that gate, but from the fteps where it is founded. Near this place there have been many pieces, or pigs of lead dug up of an oblong form: the upper part of fome was thus inferibed. Imp. Vesp. VII. T. Imp. V. Coss. On others was this infeription: - Imp. Domit. Aug. Ger. De Ceang. From this infeription, it has been conjectured, that the Cangi, a people of the old Britons, of whom very little is now known befides the' name, lived in this county; and that thefe pieces of lead belonged to fome monument of a victory gained over them by the Romans; a conjecture which is ftrengthened by a paflage in Taci- tus, from which it appears that the Congi were fituated upon the Irifh fea ; and by the names of feveral places in this part of the county, as Conghill, Congleton, Kendale, and Kentfand, which by an eafy corruption may have been formed from Congi. Naturalifts have not obferved any plants peculiar to this county, except the fmall white-heart cherry, men- tioned in our account of Frodiham. MeiCibers 'of Parliament for the County. Chefhire fends only four members to parliament, viz. two knights of the (hire for the county, two citizens for Chefter. LANCASHIRE, [ 8i ] LANCAS HIRE, Or the County Palatine of LANCASTER. THIS county is bounded by parts of Cumberland and Weftmoreland on the north ; by Cheftiire on the fouth ; by Yorkfhire on the eaft; and by the Irifh lea on the weft : towards the north it is divided by an arm of the fea, which renders that part of Lancafhire bordering upon Cumberland a peninfula. The figure of it nearly reltmbles that of England. It is about forty- five miles in length, from north to fouth; thirty-two in breath, from eaft to weft; and one hundred and feventy in circumference. It is divided into fix hundreds ; in which are fixty very large parifhes, twenty-feven market towns, about forty-five thoufand houfes, and one hun- dred and thirty-feven thoufand inhabitants. It lies in the province of York, and diocefe of Chefter ; and Prefton, a very confiderable town, nearly in the county, is two hundred and eleven miles north-weft of London. King Edward the third made this a county palatine, in favour of his fon, John of Gaunt, and it has a court, which fits in the dutchy chamber at Weftmin- fter, for the revenues of the dutchy of Lancafter ; and a chancery court at Prefton : the feal of the county pala- tine is different from that of the dutchy, for there are lands in the dutchy which are not in the county. From the time that Lancafhire has been a county palatine, Lancafter gave the title of duke to a branch of the royal family, till the union of the houfes of York and Lan- cafter, in the marriage of king Henry VII. of the Lancafler line, with Elizabeth, heirefs of the houfe of York. This county, in the times of the ancient Bikons and Romans, was part of the large territory inhabited by the Brigantines, and under the Saxon heptarchy became a portion of the kingdom of Northumberland. Not long after the Norman Conqueft, it obtained the privileges of a county-palatine,, and afterwards the honour of duke- dom annexed to the royal family. Ribchcfter, or Ribblecheftei , was a large Roman town, generally fuppofed to have been the Coceium, or Goccium, of Antoninus, and the Rigodunum, or Ribodunum, of others. But, however that may be, the ruins of it, and the many remains of antiquity that have been difcovered in and near it, prove that it was once a place of great opulence and fplendor. There are ftill vifible traces of Roman military ways leading to it, one from the north, another from the north-eaft, and a third from the mouth of the Ribble, near Prefton. Relicks of military engines and weapons, and variety of coins, ftatues, pillars, pedeftals, funeral monuments, and altars, with inscriptions, have been frequently dif- covered here; many of which are defcribed in Camden's Britannia, and Dr. Leigh's natural hiftory of this county. A remarkable piece of pntiquity in this neighbour- hood, and the object of much fpeculation, is an ancient fortification; which, becaufe anchors, rings, nails, and other parts of veflels have been frequently dug up near it, is called Anchor-Hill. As this is a confiderable diftance from the fea, it is fuppofed that it was a ram- part of the fortrefs of Coceium ; and the broad and deep foffe under it, which leads towards the river, ferved as a canal to the boats that were to pafs and repafs the river, for the fervice of the garrifon : and as we may reafonably fuppofc that there were a great number of fuch boats belonging to fo large a fort and city, we may conclude, that the Anchor-Hill was a fmall dock for building and repairing them. • 51 In this hill have been often dug up Roman paters, or bowls, adorned with flowers and the figures of wolves, and fome cf them marked at the bottom as follows: Fab. Pro. which, without doubt, implies, that they were made when one of the Fabii was procurator, or proconful. Near Anchor-Hill was alfo difcovered a com- mon fewer, and a floor laid with Roman tyles. The mouth of the Ribble is fuppofed to be the aeftuary, called by Ptolemy Bellifama. RIVERS. The chief rivers in this county are the Merfee, the Ribble, the Wire, and the Lon. The Merfee rifing in the mountains of Derbyfliire, runs fouth-weft, divid- ing that county from Lancafhire, and being joined by a confiderable ftream, called the Gout, which parts Derby- fhire and Cheftiire, and receiving the Taume, the Irwell, the Billen, a>.d feveral other fmall rivers, pafies to Warrington, a market town of Lancafhire ; whence, returning weftward, it falls into the Irifh fea at Liver- pool, the moft confiderable town in thefe parts. The Ribble rifes in Yorkfhire, and running fot»th- weft, enters this county at Clithero, a market town. In its courfe this river is augmented by Great Calmer, the Hodder, the Darwen, and the Savock ; and dividing Lancafhire nearly into two equal parts, falls into the Irifh fea not far form Prefton. In its mouth are seftuary ; it receives a large river, formed by the conflux of the ftreams Tand, Dowglas and Charnock. The Wire is formed by the Little Calder, the Broke, and other fmall ftreams, and running weft-ward falls into the Irifh fea about twelve miles north of the mouth of the Ribble. The Lon rifes near Kerby-Lonfdale a market town of Weftmorland, and running fouth-weft, is augmented by feveral ftreams, and paries the town of Lancafter, near which it falls into the Irifh fea at a wide channel, which alfo receives the rivers Caker and Condor. Remarks on the Inland Na vigation ef Lancafhire, The river Merfee, by its communication with the weftern fea, is by nature navigable, in fpring-tides, from Liverpool to Warrington-bridge. By an ac~f, of parliament, palled in the year 1720, certain undertakers were empowered to make the rivers Merfee and Irwell navigable from Liverpool to Man- chefter, and to take a tonnage of 3s. 4d. per ton for all goods navigated between Bank Quay (being near three miles below Warrington-bridge) and Manchefter. The freight and tonnage upon thofe rivers, between Liverpool and Manchefter, is twelve fhillings per ton j and between Warrington and Manchefter ten fhillings per ton. The town of Manchefter being fupplied with coals by land-carriage, at the expence of from nine to ten fhillings per ton upon a medium; and there being no communi- cation by water, from any collieries to the rivers Merfee or Irwell above Warrington, the duke of Bridgwater, who has confiderable coal mines in his eftate at Worfley, about four miles north of the river Irwell, formed a plan for conveying his coals from his works at Worfley to Manchefter, by means of an artificial canal. Accordingly he applied to parliament in the year 1758, and obtained an act for enabling him to cut a navigable Y canal, u L A N C A S II 1 k E. canal, from Worfley to Salford, near Manchcfier ; and to cany the fame to r,r near Ho'lin-Ferry. Soon alter the paffing this act, his grace begun his works, and made a navigable canal from Worfley Mill, to the public Highway leading from Manch< iter to Warrington; but it being then discovered, that the navigation would be more beneficial, both to his grace and the public,, if canied "over the river Irwell, near Barton-bridge, to Manchefter; his grace applied again to parliament, to vary the courfe of his canal accord- ingly, and to extend a fide-branch to Longford-bridge, in Stretford, and obtained an act for that purpofe. The making a naugublc canal over the river Irwell, and filling up the hollow or low ground on the north fide of this river, were iftccmed to be a very arduous un- dertaking, and, by moft perfons who viewed the chafm, thought to be impracticable; but his grace being well fuppbed with materials from his owneftate, hath already compleated t!i : s, w hicli was looked upon as the moft difficult part of his undertaking, and hath now carried it into execution. By the firft act, a rate or duty, not exceeding two (hillings and fix-pence pet ton, was granted to the duke as a redompence for the charges of making and com- pleting his navigation; and the fecond act varies the courfe of the canal, and extends it, but makes no alteration with refpect to the tonnage. 'i lie duke, upon a further furvey and taking level . found it practicable to extend his canal from Longford- bridge, by Dunham, to fall into the river Merfey, at or near a place called the Hemp-Stones, be low Bank-Quay, and fo as to bring veflels into his canal at the loweft nepe tides; and having obtained a third act for that pur- pofe, undertook the whole at his own expence, without any addition or increafe to the tonnage. This flupendous work was begun at a place called Worfley- Mill, about feven miles from Manchester; where, at the foot of a large mountain, the duke has cut a baton capable of holding all his boats, and a great body of water, which ferves as a refervoir, or head, to his navigation ; and in order to draw ihe coals out of the mine, which runs through the hill to an amazing extent, his grace has cut a fubterraneous paflage, big enough for long flat bottomed boats to go up to the work, and has fo preferved the level, that a part of the water, which drives a mill near the mouth of the paflage, runs in, and ftands to the depth oft about five feet. This paiTage alio ferves to drain the coal mines of that water which w-Otlid other wife obflrudt the work, and is to be car led on three miles or more under ground. Having obtained a ticket to fee this curiofity, which is done by fending your name to a new houfe which the duke hat lately built for his rcfidence, at about half a mile diftance, you enter with lighted candles the fubter- raneous paflage in a boat, made for bringing out the v- ils 1 , fifiy feet long, four and a half broad, and two feet three inches deep. When you firft enter the paflage, and again when you r e among the colliers, your heart will be apt to fail sou : for it feeons fo much like leaving this world for the regions of darknefs, that J could think of nothing but thefe defcriptions of the infernal {hades which the poets have drawn for Ulyfies, ./Eneas, and your old friend Telemachus. There is more civility, however, in this region, than Homer, Virgil, and Fenelon, have dif- covercd in theirs; for, fhould your fpirits fink, the com- pany are ever ready to aid you with a glafs of wine : even Charon himfelf will offer you a cup on the ocrafion. Through this paflage you proceed, towing the boat on each hand by a rail, to the extent of a thoufand yards, that is, near three quarters of a mile, before you come to the coal works ; then the paflage divides, and one branch c< ntinues on a ftraight line among the coal works three bundled yards further, while another turns off, and proceeds three hundred yards to the left; and each of rhem may be extended farther, or other paflages be con- veyed from them to any other part, as the mines may nin, and neceflity require. Hence you will perceive, that tbofe who go up both paflages, travel near three miles under ground before they return. The paflages in thofc parts where there were coals, or Ioofe earth, are arched over with brick; in others the arch is cut ouc of the rock. At certain diftanccs there are, in niches, on the fide of the arch, funnels or openings Jhrough tho rock to the top of the hill, (which is in fome places near thirty- ftven vards perpendicular,) in order to prefer ve a free circulation of frefh air, as well as to prevent thofe damps and exhalat ions that are often fo deftrudtive in works of this kind, and to let down men to work in cafe any accident fhould happen to the paflage. Near the en- trance of the paflage, and again further on, there are gates to ciofe up the arch, and prevent the admiflion of too much air in tempeftuous and windy weathor. At the entrance the arch is about fix feet wide, and about five feet high from the furface of the water; but as you come further in it is wider, and in fome places opened, fo that the boats, that are going to and fro, can pafs each other ; and when you come among the pits the arch is ten feet wide. The coaf are brought from the pits to this paffage, or canal, in little low waggons, that hold near a ton each and as the work is on the defcent, are eafily pufhed by a man, on a railed way, to a ftage over the canal, and then fliot into one cf the boats already mentioned, each of which holds about eight tons. They then, by means of the rails, are drawn out by one man to a bafon at the mouth of the paflage, where four, five, or fix of them are linked together, and drawn by one horfe or two mules, by the fide of the canal, to Manchefter, or other places where the canal is conveyed. There are alfo, on the canal, other broad bonts, that hold about filty tons, which are likewife drawn by one horfe. Of the fmall boats there are about fifty em- ployed in the work, and of the large ones a con- fiderable number. Belore we quit the coal-mines, to fpeak of the open canal and its conveyance, we muff take fome notice of a mill near the mouth of the paflage, and which, though an overfhot mill, is fo well contrived as to work three pair of grinding ftones for corn, a dreffmg or bofoltini mill, and a machine lifting fand and compounding mortar for the buildings. The mortar is made by a large ffone, which is laid horizontally, and turned by a co^-wheel underneath it, and this ffone on which the mortar ii laid, turns in its courfe two other {tones th^t are placed upon it obliquely, and, by their weight and friction, work the mortar underneath, which is tempered and taken off by a man employed for that purpofe. The boultino- mill is alio wo: thy notice. It is made of wire of dif- ferent degrees of linenefs, and at one and the fame time difcharges th. 1 fined flour, the middling fort, and the coarfe flour, as well as the pollard and the bran, and without turning round, the work being effected by brufhes of hogs briflles within the wire. For the bafon we have been fpcaking of, the canal takes its courfe to Manchefter, which is nine miles by water, though but feven by land, the other two miles being loft in feeking a level for the water. The canal is broad enough for the barges to pafs, or go abreaft, and on one fide of it there is a good road made for the paflage of the peopie concerned in the work, and for the horfes and mules that draw the boats and barges. To perfect this canal without impeding the public roads,, or injuring the people in the country, the duke has in many places built bridges to crofs the water, and (where the earth was raifed to prefcrve a level) arches under it; all of which are built chiefly of ftone, and arc both elegant and durable ; but what principally ftrikes the common obfeiver, is the work which is raifed near Barton-bridge, to convey the canal of water over the Irwell, which makes a part of the old navigation from Manchefter to Liverpool. This is done by means of three arches built of ftone, which are fo fnacious and lofty as to admit of the veflels failing underneath it; and it is indeed a moft noble fight to fee large veflels in full fad under his aqueduct, and the duke's veflels failing at the fame time over all, and near fifty feet above the navigable river. At convenient diftances there are, by the fides of the canal, receptacles for the fuperfluous water • LANCASHIRE. whiter ; and at the bottom of the canal machines con- ftruCtcd ox very fimple principle.;, and placed at proper diftances, to flop and preferve the water in cafe any part of the bank, fhould happen to break down. The aque- duct is perfected its far as Manchefter, where coals are brought from the -mine in great plenty, and another largcbatbn is making for the reception of the vefiels em- ployed in this work. The method tr.ken by Mr. Brindley for filling up a channel where too deep 'is admirable : he fills two very long boats, fixes them within two feet of each other, and" then erects upon them a triangular trough, large enough to contain i'eventeeen tons of earth: the bottom of this trough is a line of trap doors, which, upon draw- ing a pin, fly open at once, and difcharge the whole harden in an intrant. Theft boats are filled any where from the banks where the earth is in fuperftuous quan- tities,, by which harrowing it on a plank, laid from the fliore, to the fide of the trough: the hoat is then drawn over the fpot, which 'is to be filled up, and the earth dropped down i:. its proper place : it is aftonifhing what a vaft faving is male bv this invention: it has leflened the expence more than five thoufand per cent. But there are other marks at Barton which claim our attention befides the croffing the river. Here are two roads croliing the navigation, and both in this valley, where the canal is fo much higher than the level , of the country, to have built bridges over it would have coft immenfe fums, as the great rife would have rendered it neceffaiy for them to have been half as long as that at Weftminftcr. The method therefore taken by. Mr. Brindley was to fink the road gradually on both fides, and turning a large arch, to carry the canal over the roads as well as the river; and this is pra&ifed on both: fo that going under it you fink gradually on one fide, and rife in the fame manner on the other. The head of the navigation near Manchefter, forms two terminations. The firft is a common wharf, for landing coals out of the large barges, for the fupply of carts and waggons. The fecond is a fubterraneous canal arched over^ into which long and narrow boats enter. In the center of this fubterraneous pafiage is a well, bricked like the common ones funk from the furface of the ground. Near the mouth of this well is erected a crane of a new conftruCtion ; which, turning on a pivat, is eafily brought over the mouth of the well, and dranes up the coals. The boats are filled with fquare boxes, cacfi containing about eight hundred weight, for the con- venience of being landed through this well ; they there- fore enter the fubterraneous canal, and move on till they come under the well, where they flop, and the ropes which are fixed to the crane above, being let down with hooks, are fattened to the boxes, which are drawn up. This crane is moved by a water whqjfcl, driven by a fmail current of water. ^ ^ The navigation is carried a mile and half beyond Worfley, into the middle of a large bog, called here a mofs, belonging to the duke, and merely for the ufe of draining it, and conveying manures to improve it : it is greatly to that nobleman's honour to find him attending, and at a confiderable expence, to matters of hufbandry, in the midft of undertakings that would alone convey his name with peculiar brilliancy to the lateft pofterity. This bog is of large extent, extremely wet, and fo rotten, that, before it is improved, it will not bear even a man.. The duke begins by cutting fmall drains, very near each other, which foon render the furface pretty firm. Then his barges bring the chippings of ftone, and other rubbifh, which aiife in digging the coals, and which are brought out of the mine exactly in the fame manner, only inltead of going to market, to be fold, they aie converted into money. In another way, by being brought hither. This rubbifh is wheel-barrowed out of the barges on boards, on to the land, which is greatly improved by. it ; the furface foon becomes found, the aquatic fpontaneous growth difappears by degrees, better herbage comes, and thus it is converted into profitable paiture, without any paring, burning, or ploughing. Seme of the longer fhivers ot the ftone will not^gwumble with the frofts i fuch are picked up, laid in heaps, and carried back to the ftone yard, where they are fquared for buildings, or converted to other ules. As faft as the bog becomes improved, the canal is ex- tended, for the fake of going on with the work ; and almoftat the end of it his grace is building a fmall houfe, for an overfeer, fituated upon land which once would not have borne even the men employed now in building on it. T his improvement is of a new kind, and peculiarly ufeful in the neighbourhood of quarries, ftone mafon's yards, mines in rocks, &c. &c. In this Inftance it is of noble advantage, for the rubbifh would be trouble- fome at Worfley, and expenfive to carry out of the way ; fo that this improvement muft be confidered as another part of this grand whole, which is fo admirably con- nected, and, by itfelf, fo aftonifhingly fuppcited. At Worfley land letts from twenty fhillings to three pounds per acre. Farms rife from twenty pounds to one hundred a year. The next bufinefs is to view the other branch of the canal, which extends to «Altringham, &c. and for this purpofe you return to Manchefter to lie, and keep the pleafure-boat, to be ready at Caftle-field the next morning. After arriving in the old courfe at the branching off", you firft come to Longford-bridge, under which is a canal door. And juft by a fmall circular wear, for the conveyance of a ftream under the canal, the brook falls into the well, in the nave of the circle, down to an arched pafTage, which conveys it under, and lets it rife again in its old courfe on the other fide. At Water ford the canal extends a long valley, the level being preferved without lock : the work is here very noble : th.- banks of earth of a vaft height and thicknefs, beautifully floped, and the whole appearance ftrikingly great. It here crones at the fame time a large brook much fubjeCt to floods, and a road : two arches carry it over the itream, and a third over the road. The three arches extend eighty feet. Here are trap- doors, &c. as at Barton- bridge, for fecuring the water of the canal in cafe of a breach, or for repairing the aqueduct. Further in the fame valley the navigation is carried acrofs the river Merfey, on one arch of feventy feet fpan. W e fhould remark, that the canal acrofs this whole valley is of a vaft breadth, and has rather the appearance of a great navigable river than an artificial canal cut at the expence of a fingle perfon. Next it is carried acrofs Sale Moor ; under the firft bridge you catch a pleafing view, through the arches of other bridges, in a line, and at the end a church and fteeple. This part of the navigation, from the lownefs of the Moor below the level of the canal, was pronounc- ed by many to be impracticable, and Mr. Brindley's ne plus ultra; but this difficulty was removed by perfeve- rance and fpirit; a complete bed was made for the canal, raifed at bottom as well as the fides, fufHcient for con- ducting the water on a level. This was effected by mak- ing a vaft cafe of timber for the whole work : great piles of deal were fixed as a mound to keep the earth in a proper pofition to form the banks ; and when they were raifed, the piles removed on for anfwering the fame work again, and the water brought forwards by degrees, to the altonifhment of thofe who pronounced the work im- practicable. It is carried over two brooks here, for which arches are turned. At Altringham-bridge, the duke has a large warehoufe on the fide of the canal, feveral ftories high, for the convenience of flowing and lodging goods, in the trade that is carried on, on this part of the navigation : alfo a wharf for felling coals, with cranes erected for loading and unloading boats: here, likewife, his- Grace's people burn charcoal. We fhall here give fome account of the intended na- vigation for a communication between the parts of Li- verpool and Hull, &c. And this cannot be fet in a clearer and more confpicuous light than by an extraCT: from a very fenfible pamphlet, intituled, " A View of " the Advantages of Inland Navigations, &c." " The L A N C A SHI RE. ** The prefent defign comprehends only a part of the great one mentioned before. It is to join the river Trent, near Wilden, in Derbyfhire, with the river Weaver, in Chcfhire, or the duke of Bridgwater's navigation, or the tide-way in the river Merfey, as fhall be found molt ex- pedient, by a canal, with branches to Birmingham, Litchfield, Tamvvorth, and Newcaftle. And if this work meets with the approbation of the country, and the encouragement of the legislature, in all probability the other parts of the defign will foon be undertaken, to the great advantage both of the commercial and landed in- terefts ; and petitions to parliament, for branches out of the principal canals, will become as frequent as they now are for turnpike roads. The canal now intended to be carried into execution, was firft proved to be practicable by the furvey of McflVs. Taylors of Manchefter, and Mr. Eyes of Liver- pool, made in the year 1755, at tne ex P ence ot " tne Liverpool corporation ; and chiefly promoted by the late Mr. Hardman ; an active and able friend to the com- mercial interefts of this nation, and one of the repre- fentatives of that borough. And the public is indebted to the earl Gower, and the late lord Anfon, for another furvey of the intended courfe of this canal, made by Mr. Brindley in 1758, and afterwards reviewed by Mr. Smeaton, F. R. S. and Mr. Brindley jointly ; and thefe furveyors concurred in opinion, that no tract, of land in the kingdom was naturally better adapted for the purpofe of an inland navigation, that none flood in more need of it, or was fo convenient for an union of the eafl and weft feas. The reafons for preferring a canal to a river naviga- tion, are many and important. The fhortnefs of the voyage on the former, which is protracted on the latter by the winding courfe of the ftream ; the abfence of cur- rents, which in livers impede the upward navigation more than they affift the downward, and hourly under- mine and wear away the banks ; the fecurity from the mifchief and delay occafioned by floods ; the eafier draught for the horfes, as the boats will, in a canal, move nearer the towing path ; and the advantage of choofing high ground for the locks; while in the other cafe, the fituation of them muft be regulated only by the accidental (hallows of the rivers, are all circum- ftances greatly in favour of canals ; and efpecially the laft : for as in river navigations, the locks muft fre- quently be erected on low lands, the neighbouring mea- dows are thereby often rendered damp and fwampy; while in canal navigations this difadvantage is not only avoided, but as the canal, to purfue its moft convenient courfe, muft frequently wind along the edges of the rifing ground, numberlefs fprings will be cut through, and the plain beneath rendered actually drier and more fertile. It is alfo another circumftance not unworthy of notice in favour of canals, when compared with river navigations, that as the conveyance upon the former is more fpeedy, and without interruptions, and delays, to which the latter are very liable, opportunities of pilfer- ing earthen wares, and other fmall goods, and ftealing and adulterating wine and fpirituous liquors, are thereby in a great meafure prevented. The lofles, difappoint- ments and dilcredit of the manufacturers, arifing from this caufe, are fo great, that they frequently choofe to fend their goods by land at three times the expence of water carriage, and fometimes even refufe to fupply their orders at all, rather than run the rifque of forfeiting their credit, and fubmitting to the deductions that are made on this account. We may alfo add, with refpect to the potteries in StafFordfhire, that this evil difcourages merchants abroad from dealing in thofe manufactures, and creates innu- merable mifunderftandings between them and the manu- facturers. This canal is defigned to fall into the Trent at Wilden rather than at Burton, to avoid the (hallows which greatly interrupt the navigation on that river : At Harecaftle, the higheft part in the courfe of the canal, from whence the water falls north and fouth, it will pafs above a mile under ground ; by which means fewer locks will be neceflary, and more water fupplied fiom the coal mines in that country : and the whole length of it, with the branches, will be upwards of an hundred miles. The canal and vefiels are to be conftructed on the plan found molt eligible, from various experiments made on the duke of Bridgwater's navigation." We have already in our furvey of Chefhire, given an account of the amazing works carrying on at Hurtcaitlc*, and therefore fhall not repeat it here. The boats are to be feventy feet in length, fix feet wide, to draw near thirty inches water, and to carry twenty tons burthen. They are to be fo conltrucled as to fail with either end foremoft, by removing the rudder; and to coft about thirty pounds each. There is to be a man and a boy to each boat, which one horfe will draw witheafe alon ; the canal ; but when neceflary, will be able to draw three of them. It is propoled to raife the money by fublcription, in lots or fhares, of two hundred pounds each ; no perfon to fubferibe more than twenty fhares j the tonnage to be fixed by act of parliament, and veiled in the fubferibers, as a fecurity for their money ; the company to be under the infpe&ion of commiflioners, as in moft other navi- gation acts ; the fhares to be transferable in an eafy man- ner, like government fecuritics ; the navigation to be free and open to all perfons, paying the tonnage fixed by law; and land-owners to have liberty to erect warc- houfes and wharfs, on the banks or fides of the navi- gation. It is alfo propofed to repay the money fubferibed for obtaining the act of parliament, out of the capital ftock, if the application to parliament be attended with fuccefs. Particular Advantages of the intended Canal. The advantages arifing from cheapnefs of carriage and eafy communication between the diitant parts of a country, and the manufacturing towns and fea-ports reciprocally, are fo very extenfne and complicated, that it is impoflible to reduce them to any very exact efti- mation. If we would attempt to eftimate them at all, it will be neceflary to difcover, as near as we can, how much the price of carriage is likely to be diminifhed; and what quantities, and k'nds of gooJs, will probably be conveyed by this navigation. The price of land-carriage, in the neighbourhood of the canal, is, upon an average, about nine (hillings a ton, for ten miles. It is fuppofed the tonnage upon the cana!, for the lame diftance, will be about two (hillings, and the freight not above fix-pence more, making together two (hillings and fix-pence per ton : fo that near three fourths of the prefent price of carriage will be faved to the public. And the difference between land and v/ater carriage, in other places, confirms the jufliufs of this conclufion. Land-carriage, for inftance, between Man- chefter and Liverpool, which are about thirty-eight miles diftant from each other, cofts foity (hillings per ton; water carriage only lix (hillings and eight pence one way, and ten (hillings the other - t fuppofe nine (hillings upon an average; and the faving, by this navigation, is above three fouiths of the expence of land-carriage. If we fuppofe the faving to be only fix (hillings in nine, which is a very moderate computation, this cir- cumitance alone will not only enable land-owners, ma- nufactures, and merchants, to convey many articles to markets where they never could have borne the expence of land carriage; but will alfo bring into life many na- tural productions; fuch as coals, ftone of various kinds, timber, iron ore, alabafter, &c. which, from their un- favourable fituations, never could have been employed. To give fome idea of thefe advantages, we muft en- deavour to enumerate the chief fources of employment for the intended navigation : and thefe may be coniidered under the three following heads : 1. Natural productions of the countries that lie near the canal. 2- Cultivated commodities and manufactures. 3. Imported raw-ma- terials, and general commerce. From Northwich to Lawton there lies a vaft bed of rock-falt, about forty yards thick, which, belides being purified and chryftallized for home confumption and ex- portation, LANCASHI R E. pbrtation, as will be mentioned in its proper place, j might be made great ufe of in agriculture, and probably in metallurgy, and feveral of the mechanic arts, if any method could be difcovered of granting the liberty of ufing it with fafety to the revenue. There is a mountain called Mole Cop, near Lawton, that contains four different and ufeful kinds of ftone. I. Millflones of an excellent quality, which are, now carried by land upwards of an hundred miles, and to all parts of the intended navigation. 2. A good limeftone. 3. A fine freeftone. 4. Grinding ftones of different forts. A mile from Rudgley, a blazing kind of coal, called canel, and other coals, are found, belonging to the earl of Uxbridge. The lower ftratum of thefe mines is faid to be a valuable one ; and it is apprehended a navigable fou2;h might be carried from the new canal into the heart of them, in the manner of the duke of Bridgwater's colliery in Lancafhire ; and that this would lay them dry ; the want of which is the prefent obftacle to their being worked ; and at the fame time convey the coals into the new canal, to the great advantage of the "noble proprietor, and the neighbouring country. Near that part of the Trent where the canal is to ter- minate, arifes a vaft mountain of lime-ftone, on which the village of Breden, in Leicefterfhire, is fituated: at Tickenhall, in Derbylhire, not far from the laft men- tioned place, there are alfo quarries of lime-ftone; and at Barrow, in Leicefterfhire, they burn an excellent kind of lime for building, which is conveyed to places at a great diftance by land, everyway; and lime is much wanted through the whole courfe of the cana', both for the purpofes of architecture and cultivation. A few /niles lower, at Clay^Hill, a firm and ele- gant alabafter is found, proper either for ftucco or fculpture. Not many miles from the Trent, near the river Soar, in Leicefterfhire, which it is hoped the gentlemen in that neighbourhood, and the inhabitants, of Leicefter, will now be able to make navigable, without oppofition, are the noted quarries of Swithland flate ; a beautiful and durable covering for houfes ; and prodigious rocks of that kind of grey porphyry, which is brought from Scotland, to pave the ftreets of London and Weft- minfter. A great quantity of marie will be thrown out in mak- ing the canal ; and may befides, in many places, be found fo near the banks, as to be delivered from the fpade into the boats ; which will greatly contribute to the improve- ment of ftich land as ftands in need of this kind of ma- nure. Other manures will alfo be procured from large towns, on reafonable terms, for back-carriage ; and as it is intended to exempt manure from the charge of ton- nage, thefe advantages, together with the lime, men- tioned before, will double the produce and value of many farms bordering upon the canal. Several parts of the country, in the neighbourhood of the canal, yield great quantities of that fort of iron-ore, commonly called iron-ftone, proper for making cold-fhort iron; and which, when mixed with the red ore from Cumberland, makes the beft kind of tough, or merchant- iron. The iron-ftone of this coun ry is likewife fo ne- ceflary for working the ore in the north, that even the great expence of land-carriage hath not prevented large quantities of it from being conveyed that w.ay to the river Weaver, to be (hipped for Cumberland ; and the ore from the north has been brought into this country under the like inconveniencies. Jt feems, therefore, highly probable, that the intended canal will occafion the fending much greater quantities of iron-ftone into the north ; and the receiving more red mine back in return ; and thereby greatly increafe the intercourfe be- tween thefe two parts of the kingdom, to their mutual advantage. Not only thefe natural productions, that are to be found on the banks of the intended canal, but many of thofe from the more diftant parts of the counties it is to pafs through, will have their value and confumption greatly increafed, by this eafy and cheap conveyance. Of this number aie lead, copper, calamine, marble, 51 rottenftone, raddle, white clay, ochres, Sec. and many" other articles will probably become ufeful to fociety„ which at prefent lie unmolefted in their native beds. From natural prod udt ions we may proceed to the con- fideration of thofe that are cultivated and manufactured ; and that which deferves our firft attention, under this head, is corn; as the growth and exportation of this important article will be greatly increafed by a new na- vigation ; and the benefit to the public, from the ex- portation of corn does not arife, as in other merchandife, only from the employment of our hands at home, the improvement of our eftates, and the return of wealth, for which it is exchanged abroad ; but likewife from its being an infallible fecurity againft thofe dreadful famines formerly experienced in this nation, in years of uncom- mon fcarcity. In the year 1751, an account of the exportation of grain was laid before theHoufe cf Commons ; and it ap- peared that above five millions of quarters of grain were exported from Great Britain in the years 1746, to 1750, both inclufive; and near feven millions and a half of money gained by the nation in exchange. And fince grain has been made an object of foreign commerce, its price has not only in general been lowered at home, but its cultivation has increafed to fuch a degree, that a good harveft is fuppofed to be a provifion for four or five years. The kingdom of England alone, according to Dr, Halley's computation, contains about forty millions of fquare acres; and of thefe, in the years 1689, when a bounty was firft given on the exportation of corn, one third part was fuppofed to lie in uncultivated commons. No year has elapfed, fincp that time, in which the le- giflature have not palled many acts for the inclofur-. of wafte grounds ; whereby the country, in various places, is converted from barren heaths into fruitful fields ; yield- ing riches and fupport to thej induftrioi s farmer, and his ufeful dependants. Agriculture is an inexhauftible fource of plenty and riches, which can never be fo much enlarged, or it* ftreams fo widely diffufed, as by the means of inland na- vigations : and as the inhabitants, in fome places near the intended canal, confume much more corn and grain of all kinds than they can raife, and thofe in others raife more than they can confume, this circumftance will find great employment for the navigation, to the general ad- vantage of the adjacent counties. The farmers, in the neighbourhood of the new canal, may indeed object, that the price of grain will never rife fo high as it has done in times of fcarcity, when there is the opportunity of an eafy importation. In anfwer to which, it may be obferved, that from the eafe of ex- portation, it will never fink fo low in plentiful feafons; fo that the profi s of the farmers, upon the whole, will not be lefs, but more equal : and we cannot help ob- ferving, in this place, that inequality of gain is, of all ' others, the moft frequent caufe of their ruin ; as in fcarce times, when their profits are great, they become more expenfive and luxurious, and do not fo well know how to contract their manner of life, when cheaper fea- fons lower the value of their commoditief. In times of plenty, the land-owners and formers near the canal, will receive great benefit from the exporta- tion of their grain, of all kinds : in times of fcarcity, the whole country will be relieved, by means of a fea- fonable importation; and thus the bleffings of providence be more equally and uniformly diftributed, and an ar- tificial dearth rendered almoft impoflible. How inef- fectual would be the attempt of the moft powerful mo- nopolizer, in fuch a country as China, where plenty can be thrown into any market, from all parts, by means of navigable canals ? Another cultivated article, of great importance, is that of timber of all kinds, and efpecially oak; of which there are many large woods near the courfe of the in- tended canal, that, for want of a proper conveyance to fea-port towns, where timber is much wanted for fhip building, are fold in the neighbourhood at a low price. Any method of conveying fo bulky an article as this to the places of confumption, at any eafy expence, will Z greatly 86 L A N C A s tt i k fc. greatly encourage the growth of it, and help to repair that ciecreafe of fhip-umbcr in this nation, which is a very alarming circuwifrance, to a people whofe riches and power depend fo greatly upon navigation. Cord wood, to make charcoal for the iron works, oak^ bark for the tanners, and woad, madder, and other arti- cles which may become the objects of cultivation, will be carried at a cheap rate upon the canal, to the mutual advantage of the proprietors and confumers. Wool, hides, tallow, and provifions of varicus kinds, will become more beneficial to their owners, by the ad- vantage of an eafy conveyance, to places where they may be confumed or manufactured. As this canal will go through the middle of Cheftiire, fo famous for the great quantities of good cheefe it pro- duces, the advantages arifing from it to the dairies will be very confiderable ; as many hundred tons of this article are annually carried by land, above forty miles, to Wellington in Derbyftiire, to be (hipped for London, and other diftant maikets, which will, for the future, be fent by water, all the to Hull and Liverpool, at a very moderate expence. From the Wiches, in Cheftiire, manufactured fait is carried, on horfeback, to ahnoft all parts of Stafford- ftiire, Derbyftiire, Leicefterftiire, Nottinghamlhjre, Yorkfhire, and Lincolnfhire ; to which places it will gain a much cheaper accefs, by means of the intended navigation : and fo great is the home confumption of this article, that from the falt-works of Northwich only, a duty of fixty-feven thoufand pounds was laft year paid into the Exchequer. At Northwich and Winsford are annually made about 24,000 tons. The town of Burflem, and villages of Stoke, Henley- green, Lane-delf, and Lane-end, are employed in the manufacturing of various kinds of ftone and eaithen wares, which are carried, at a great expence, to all parts of the kingdom, and exported to our iflands and colonies in America, and to almoft every part of Europe; but the ware which is fent to Hull is now carried by land upwards of thirty miles, to Willington; and that for Liverpool twenty miles to Winsford. The burthen of fo expenfive a land-carriage to Winsford and Wil- lington, and the uncertainty of the navigations from thofe places to Frodftiam, in Cheftiire, and Wilden, in Derbyftiire, occafioned by the floods in winter, and the numerous /hallows in fummer, are more than thefe low- priced manufactures can bear ; and without fome fuch relief as this under confideration, muft concur, with their new eftabliftied competitors in France, and our American colonies, to bring thefe potteries to a fpeedy decay and ruin. All the branches of the metallic trades, which are almoft innumerable, and carried to an aftonifliing extent at Birmingham, Walfal, Wolverhampton, and other places in the neighbourhood of the intended navigation, muft receive advantages from it, that cannot at prefent be eftimated or conceived. We have already mentioned the important circum- ftance of bringing ores out of the north, to mix with thofe in Staffordftiire; by which the iron of that country muft be rendered better and cheaper; and to this we may add, the great advantages of having charcoal, lime, and other fluxes brought to the furnaces at a fmall expence J and likewife the great faving there may be in conveying this heavy article from the forge to the manufacturer by water; all which circumftances muft contribute to en- creafe the confumption of Englifti iron, and enable the iron mafters, in that neighbourhood, to come upon a competition with foreigners, fo far as to reduce the price of foreign iron, and upon the whole greatly to benefit both themfelves and the manufacturers : and cer- tainly the firft object, in the encouragement of any ma- nufactory, is to furnifti it with its raw-materials at the loweft price; to which nothing, in general, contributes io much as inland navigations. By the means of this canal, then, the iron mafters will be enabled to ferve the manufacturers better with their materials : and by the fame means, the manufactu - rers will be enabled to fend their finifhed goods away much cheaper, and to more maikets; by which the confump- tion, and exportation of them, cannot fail to be greatly increafed. The circumftance of a water-conveyance, all the way from Birmingham to the ports of Hull and Liverpool, will be a very great reciprocal advantage to all the three places. 1 he reduction of the price of carriage, which will take place between Birmingham and the laft-men- tioned port, is fo great a proportion of the value of guns, nails, and other heavy manufactures of iron, that the exportation of them from thence muft be increafed to a degree beyond eftimation. The fine ale, made at Burton upon Trent, which is now exported to Germany, and leveral parts of the Baltic, may, by means of the intended canal, be exported from Liverpool to all parts of America, where it is likely to become a very confiderable article of commerce. The valuable manufactures of Nottingham, Leicefter, and Derby, will find a cheap conveyance to Liverpool, by this navigation ; and the demand for them, at that port, will confequently be increafed. In the neighbourhood of Burflem, and the potteries, bricks and tyles are made of a blue colour, which are fo far vitrified, as to be harder, and more durable than any kind of ftone ufed in building ; and thefe articles are likely to find a demand through the whole courfe of the canal. Having mentioned the principal natural productions, cultivated commodities, and manufactures in the neigh- bourhood of the intended navigation, we come to the articles of importation, and of general commerce. Great quantities of flint ftones, ufed at the potteries in Staffbrdftiire, are brought by fea, from different parts of the coaft, to Liverpool and Hull. And the clay, ufed in the white and coloured ware, is brought from Devon- fhire, chiefly to Liverpool ; and from thence fent up the river Weaver to Winsford in Cheftiire : the flints from Hull are fent up the Trent to Willington in JJerbylhire; and from Winsford and Willington they are both brought to the works, at a very great expence, by land- carriage ; the one being twenty, and the other not lefs than thirty eight miles diftant from the potteries : and they are likewife fubject to the fame expences and delays, from floods and (hallows, as the manufactured goods, mentioned before, to the very great difadvantage of the manufacturers. Inconveniencies which nothing but a navigable canal can remove. The iron ore from Cumberland, as it will be a con- fiderable article of importance, muft be mentioned in this place, though, in another view, it has been taken notice of before. Hemp, flax, and linen-yarn, will be conveyed by this canal, to various manufacturers, who make ufe of thofe materials j and probably occafion the eftabjifhment of feveral new manufactories. Deals for building, and mahogany for cabinet-work, which are much wanted, and are now very dear, in many parts of thefe counties through which the canal is to pafs, owing to the heavy charge of land-carriage upon fueh bulky commodities, will be conveyed, through the whole extent of this navigation, at a moderate expence, and become very confiderable articles of commerce. American iron will alfo, by this means, be brought cheaper to the manufacturing towns, from the ports of Liverpool and Hull ; and contribute, with the advantages already mentioned, arifing to the iron-mafters, to leflen the confumption of foreign European iron, to the great profit of this nation, in general, and our own iron works, in particular; and have a tendency to keep that money at home, which, for want of a better fyftem of commercial policy, is now fent to foreigners, who take very few of our manufactures ; and alfo to prevent the destruction of a trade, on which many thousands of in- duftrious workmen depend for fubfiftence. The numerous manufactures in Birmingham, and its neighbourhood, will, in general, receive their raw ma- terials, of all kinds,, much cheaper, by means of the in- tended canal ; fuch as copper, calamine, lead, zinc, ivory, and many others. The merchants of Liverpool and Hull will fupply the towns and villages, bordering upon the canal, with rum* wine, L A N C A S H t R E. wine, tobacco, fugar, and all kinds of groceries and dying fluffs, at lower prices than they have been ac- cuftomed to receive thefe commodities, and with much more fafety and expedition. And, as thefe are articles of general confumption, the amount of them muft be very conftderable ; and the benefit to the public pro- portionably great. The falt-trade will receive a very important advantage from the canal, when the navigation in the Weaver may, ■at any time, be interrupted ; as that article may oc- cafionally be forwarded to Liverpool, by this new con- veyance, for the difpatch of thofe veflels which would otherwife be detained there, at a great expence. And any injury the proprietors of the Weaver navigation have to apprehend from it, fuppofing the canal Thould not terminate in that river, muft weigh light in the balance cf public utility ; as their freight depends chiefly upon fait, and falt-rock, from Winsford and Norihwich ; which, at prefect, amount to about fifty thoufand tons a year j and will no doubt be ftill increafed : and none of this likely to come upon the new canal, but when floods, or the repairing of the locks, obftruct the Weaver; becaufe the canal will be fome miles diftant from Winsford ; and though it fhould come near the works at Northwi.h, the ci fad vantage of unloading, and loading ajain, as the canal-veflels cannot live in the tide-way, will prevent the fait from being fent by them, except upon fuch occafions as thofe that are mentioned above. The diminution of the price of carriage, which will take place, by means of the canal, mifft alfo appear to be a very great and neceflary advantage to our manu- factures and commerce ; when our prefent price of land- carriage is placed in a comparative view with that of our chief competitors : the price of land-carriage between Birmingham and London, being about eight fhillings per ton, for ten miles ; and in the neighbourhood of the intended canal, and in many other places, no lefs than nine fhillings per ton ; whilft merchandize may be con- veyed, by land, between Lions and Marfeilles, in France, at the rate of five {hillings per ton, for the fame diftance. A circumftance that muft give the manufadturers of that nation, a very great fuperiority over ours, at all markets, where they would otherwife meet upon equal terms. Having confidered the principal advantages which the public may reafonably expect from the execution of this defign, we ought not to forget the pleafures that may arife from it to individuals ; efpecially as tafte is fo uni- versally cultivated, that our farms are gradually improv- ing into gardens. And here it muft be allowed, that to have a lawn terminated by water, with moving objects, paffing and repafiing upon it, is a finifhing, of all others, the moft defirable. And if we add the amufemems of a gondola, that may convey us to many flourifhing towns, through the moft delightful vallies in the king- dom ; and the convenience of having variety of fifh, brought alive in well-boats, for our tables ; we have articles of luxury, which the inhabitants, in other fitua- tions, wifh for in vain. So many, and important, are the advantages that will undoubtedly arife to the public from the intended canal, that we prefume, an attentive confideration of them, muft convince every one, that they infinitely outweigh all the inconveniencies that can be fuppofed to attend it : and it is to be hoped, every friend to his country will be cautious of giving weight to trivial inconvenien- cies, in oppofition to a work of this immenfe impor- tance ; efpecially at a time when our manufacturers are Suffering, for want of the ufual demand for their goods; and when feveral rival nations, as well as our own colo- nies, are availing themfelves of this opportunity, to (educe our workmen, in many branches, to leave the country, and contribute to the fupport of thefe alarming competitors. Some of the objections, that may be urged againft this navigation, have already been obviated ; and thofe that remain, do not feem to be well-founded, or of great importance. It may be faid, that many eftates will be divided by the canal : but, as in fevera! parts Jt will be carried through uncultivated commons, and lands that want draining: as a full compenfatlon will be paid for the ground that is cut through ; and as the farms will be again connected, by bridges and fprds, at fuitable diftances; it is prefumed no inconveniencies will proceed from this circumftance, which are not amply counter- balanced by the many advantages that have been before pointed out, and muft evidently arife to every farm through which it may pafs. Nor muft we here omit the trite objection of the dif- honefty of watermen, that they will pilfer fruit and poultry in their paflage. But, certainly, this clafs of travellers may be ranked, in point of honerty, with the common carriers ; and as one man and a boy will be Sufficient to attend the conveyance of twenty tons of goods along the canal* which by land would require the attendance of ten perfons, the number of thefe danger- ous vifitors will be greatly decreafed. The only remaining objection, that has occurred to us, is, that by an inland navigation, between the ports of Liverpool and Hull, the coafting trade, that great nurfery for fcamen, will be diminifhed. To which may be anfwered, that, in the firft place, there is little or none of that trade between thofe two ports. Second \y i that as this inland navigation will give an opportunity for a more eafy conveyance of the products of the interior parts of the country to the neighbouring ports, which may from thence be conveyed, by fea, to diftant parts of the kingdom, from whence other products and com- modities may be returned ; the coafting trade muft here- by be greatly promoted. And laflly, as this navigation will contribute to increafe the produce of our farms, will benefit our prefent manufactures, and occafion the eftabliihment of new ones, it muft, of couife, enlarge the amount of our exports; and, inftead of leffening, have a direct tendency to augment the quantity of our fhipping, and the number of our feamen. It muft alfo be obferved, that when the other parts of this great defign are executed, .and the principal ports and manufacturing towns of the kingdom come to have a reciprocal inland communication by water, then, though the coafting trade may be diminifhed, the ex- port trade will not only be inceivably enlarged, but the internal national commerce be carried on with much more eafe and difpatch; lefs expofed to expenfive and hazardous delays ; and perfectly fecure, in time of war, from the depredations of an enemy. How far thefe favourable circumftances muft con^ tribute to enhance the value of our lands ; to promote the wealth, ftrength, and fplendor of this nation ; and to confirm, and perpetuate, the peculiar bleflings and privileges of its inhabitants ; is referred to the imagi- nation of every intelligent reader. — The profpect is delightful ! — Patriot minds will dwell upon it with pleafure, and be employed in projecting fchemes tp realize it, in its whole extent.— But our prefent atten- tion muft be confined to one part of the general defign and, no doubt, many advantages to be expected from the navigable canal, now under confideration, will occur to the reader, that have efcaped our notice : thofe that have been pointed out are, however, very numerous and extenfive. To have the means of conveyance fo greatly facili- tated ; the price of carriage fo much diminifhed ; old manufactures encouraged; new ones eftablifhed ; eftates greatly improved; plenty widely diffufed; and the coun- try, in general, rendered ftill more affluent, populous, and fecure ; are confiderations of fuch weight, as can- not fail to intereft all benevolent and public-fpirited per* fons, in the fuccefs of this important undertaking. A I The air of this county in general is more Serene than that of any other maritime county in England ; fo k that the inhabitants are ftrong and healthy, except near the fens and fea-fhore, where the fulphureous and faline effluvia, which, on the approach of ftorms are extremely fitid, produce fevers fcurvies, confumptions, rheuma- tisms, Fft LAN C A S H 1 R h. tifms, and dropfies. There alfo certain traces in the more inland parts of the county, which the inhabitants call mofles, that are mJft and unwholfomc. Soil, and Natural Productions. The foil of Lancafhire, on the weft fide, generally fields great plenty of wheat and barley; and though the hilly tracts on the eaft fide are for the molt part ftoney and barren, yet the bottom of thofe hills pro- duce excellent oats. The land in fome places bears very good hemp, and the pafture is fo rich, that both oxen and cows are of a larger fize here than in any other county in England ; their horns alfo are wider and bigger. In this county are mines of lead, iron and copper, of antimony, black-lead and lapis calaminaris; alfo quarries of (tone for building. Here ia likewfe great plenty of coal, and a particular kind, called cannel, or candle-coal, which is chiefly found in the manor of Haigh, near Wigan, a large market-town of this county. This coal will not only make a much clearer fire than pit coal, but will bear a good polifh, and when polifhed, looks like black marble; fo that candlellicks, cups, ftandifhes, fnufF-boxes, and other toys, are made of it. In fome of the coal-pits are found alum, brimftone, and green vitriol. The rhofles, or moraffes of this county are generally diftinguifhed into three kinds, the white, the grey, and the black; all which being drained bear good corn. They alfo yield turf for fuel, and marie to manure the ground ; trees are fometimes found burned in thefe mofles, and the people are obliged to make ufe of poles and fpits, to difcover where they lie. Thefe trees, when dug up, ferve likewife for firing, and burn like a torch ; which is fuppofed by fome to be owing to the bituminous ftratum in which they lie; but by others to the tur- pentine which they contain ; being generally of the fir kind. This county has great plenty and variety of fifh. Upon the fea coafts are found cod-fifh, flounders, plaife, and turbots ; the fea dog, incle fifh, and fheath fifh, are taken upon the fands near Liverpool ; fturgeon is caught near Warrington, and along the whole coaft are found green-baks, mallets, foles, fand-eels, oifters, lob- fters, fhrimps, prawns, the beft and largeft cockles in England, the ecirim torculars, wilks and perriwincles, rabbit-fifh and pap-fifh ; and fuch abundance of mufcles, that the hufbandmen manure their land with them. Almoft all the rivers of Lancafhire abound with fifh ; the Merfey in particular with fparlings and fmelts ; the Ribble, with flounders and plaife; the Lon with the beft of falmon ; and the Wire is famous for a large fort of mufcles, called Hambleton-hookings ; be- caufe they are dragged from their beds with hooks ; in them pearls of a confiderable fize are very often found. The irk. a fmall river that falls into the Merfey, is remarkable for eels fo very fat, that few people can eat them ; the fatnefs of thefe fifh is imputed to their feed in g upon the greafe and oil, which is prefled by a number of water mills upon this ftream, out of the woollen cloths, that are milled in them. There are alfo feveral lakes in this county which abound with fifh, particularly Keningfton-Meer, about five miles from Winander Meer, in Weftmoreland, which produce very fine chars, and other fifh. Remarks on the Husbandry of Lancafhire. At Kabers, near Lancafter, the foil is chiefly clay, but they have fome light loam and fome fand ; lets at an average for feventeen {hillings an acre. Farms from fen pounds to feventy pounds a year. Their courie, 1. Fallow 2. Barley 3. Oats 4. Fallow 5. Wheat 6. Beans 7. Oats About Cockeranj they break up and low* 1. Peafe 2. Barley 3. Oats. For wheat they pi ugh three timet, low three bufliels and a half, often in February and March, and get about twenty-fix in return. For barley they it ir three times, few three bufliels about May day, and gain thirty in return. They give but one ploughing for oats, fow fix bufhels, and gain forty in return. They ftir but once for beans, fow four bufhels, broad caft, the beginning of March, and reckon the average produce at thirtv- fix bufhels. For peafe they plough but once, fow trme bufliels, at the time with beans; the crop thirty bufhels. For rye they plough thrice, fow three bufhels, and gain four quarters in return. But few turneps cultivated : the method is to plough twice for them, never hoe ; the average value eight pounds : ufe them for beafts and fheep. For potatoes they plough three, dung the land well, and dibble them in eight or ten inches fquare; they after- wards weed them by hand : the crop from one hundred to two hundred bufhe!s, at from one fhilling to one fhilling and four-pence a bufhel : they fow wheat after them, and get very fine crops, much fuperior to their common ones. As to manures, marie is the grand one, wh : ch is found under all this country, and generally within fix- teen or twenty inches of the furface ; it lies in beds, many of them of a vaft depth, the bottoms of fome pits not being found : it is white, and as foft and foapy as butter. They lay about an hundred two horfe cart loads to an acre, but fome farmers lefs on to lays and ftub- bles. It lafts a good improvement for twenty years; cofts about four pounds ten fhillings an acre. Their hay they ftack in houfes. Good grafs Ietts for twenty-fix fhillings an acre; is ufed chiefly for dairying ; one acre and a quarter they reckon enough for a cow infummcr, and one acre to four fheep. They marie a good deal, and find it a oood improvement, making the grafs fatten well, and excel- lent for milk. Their breed of cattle the long horned. They reckon the profit of a cow at four pounds, and a middling one to yield fix gallons of milk a day. The winter food ftraw and hay, of the latter an acre and quarter: keep about a pig to two cows ; and reckon a dairy maid to ten or twelve. The fummer joift is thirty fhillings; keep them in winter in the houfe. Their fwine they fat to four pounds ten fhillings, or five pounds value. Their flocks of fheep rife from twenty to four hun- dred, having fome commons in the neighbourhood; and reckon the profit at feven fhillings and fix-pence, or eight fhillings a head : keep them all the year on the commons : their fleeces weigh, at a medium, three pounds. In tillage they account fix horfes necefTary for fifty acres of arable land; ufe fix in a plough, and do an acre a day. The annual expence/w horfe four pounds fifteen fhillings. None of them cut ftraw into chaff. The time of breaking up their ftubbles for a fallow is Candlemas ; plough generally four or five inches deep. The hire of a cart and three horfes is four fhillings and fix-pence a day. They reckon one hundred and fifty pounds necefTary for hiring and flocking a farm of fifty pounds a year. Price of LABOUR. In harveft, 1 s. and board. In hay time, ditto, In winter, 6d. and ditto. Reaping wheat, 6 s. 6d. barley, 6 s. oats, 5 s. — — beans, 6 s. Mowing grafs, zs. and ale. Ditching, 64. to 8 d. per rood. Firft man's wages, 9 /. Next ditto, 5/. Boy LANCASHIRE. 89 Boy of ten or twelve years, 40 s. A dairy maid, 3 /. Other ditto, 40*. to 50 s. Women^r day in harveft, $d. and board. In hay time, 6d. and ditto. In winter, \d. and ditto. They reckon the value of a man's board, warning, and lodging, three {hillings and fix-pence a week. Around Garftang are feveral variations which deferve noting. The foils are clay, black moory, on clay, and light loam j which letton an average at feventeen (hil- lings an acre. Farms from ten to one hundred and fifty pounds a year. Their courfe, 1. Fallow 2. Wheat 3. Beans 4. Barley 5. Oats, and then left to graze itfelf, and they afTert very gravely that the grafs was excellent : they plough thrice for wheat, fow three buftiels a fortnight before Michaelmas, and reckon thirty-five bufhels the average produce. For barley they ftir from one to four times, low three bufhels per acre the end of April; and gain thirty bufhels an acre. For oats they plough but once, fow feven bufhels an acre in March, and gain on an average forty-five bufheis. They ftir but once for beans, fow four bufhels and a half, broad caft, both under furrow, and above, the end of February or begin- ning of March ; never hoe them : they gain thirty bufhels. They fow neither peafe nor rye, and fcarce any turneps. Clover with both barley and oatsj and gene- rally mow it for hay. For potatoes they dig all the land nine inches deep, and then dung it well ; dibble in the fetts nine inches afunder ; reckon a peck to fet a perch of twenty-one feet : they hand-weed them, and gain upon an average three bufhels and a half per perch, or four hundred and fifty bufhels per acre; after them they fow corn of all forts, and get great crops. Marie is their principal manure, both white, black, blue, fandy, and fome fhell marie. They fometimes find perfect cockle and periwinkle {hells, nine yards deep, in beds of marie. The furface is from one to four feet of thicknefs above it : twenty-three fquare yards marks an acre. It is quite foft and foapy. The land will be for ever the better for it : it does beft on light foils. The marie hufbandry here is to plough three years, and let it lie three. They find a fecond, and even a third marling, to anfwer well : the average ex- pence about four pounds per acre. Lime they alfo ufe : lay fifty windles per acre, at one {hilling and four-pence per windle ; and fometimes up to eighty and a hundred ; the expence to five pounds and fix pounds ten millings per acre ; it Iafts generally four or five years in great heart ; but, with very good ma- nagement, for twenty years. Good grafs letts from thirty {hillings to thirty-five an acre; they ufe it chiefly for cows, and reckon an acre and a quarter fufficicnt for the fummer feed of a cow, and four fheep to the acre. They manure their paftures with both marie and lime. The breed of their cattle long horned. And it will not here be amifs to remark, that Lancafhire is famous for this long horned breed, fo that cows, which produced by bred bulls (and they are very curious in their breed) will fell at very high prices, up to twenty and thirty pounds a cow, if they promife well for producing good bulls, which fome- times fell for one or two hundred pounds a bull. They fat their oxen to forty and fixty ftone. Their fwine, in common, to twenty ftone : fome in particular, to thirty. They reckon the product of a cow from thjee pounds ten {hillings to four pounds. Keep fcarce any fwine the more upon account of their dairies. Feed their cows in winter upon ftraw and hay ; and reckon an acre of the latter neceffary. The fummer expence from twenty {hillings to thirty {hillings. Keep them in both field and houfe in the winter. Their flocks of fheep rife from twenty to two hun- dred ; they calculate the profitat four or five {hillings, keep 52 them in both winter and fpring on the commons : the mean weight per fleece three pounds. They reckon twelve or thirteen horfes neceffary for the management of one hundred acres of arable land. Ufe four in a plough, and do an acre a day. The annual expence of keeping horfes is five pounds ten {hillings each. The fummer expence is from thirty {hillings to fifty {hillings, and three {hillings and fix-pence a week. They break up their ftubbles for a fallow in March ; plough in general fix inches deep The price per acre eight fhillings. Know nothing of chopping ftraw for chaff". Hire of a cart, three horfes and a driver, four {hillings a day. In the flocking of farms, five hundred pounds is neceffary to ftock a grazing one of one hundred and fifty pounds a year ; but two hundred is fufficicnt for the common ones of one hundred a year. Land fells at from thirty to forty years purchafe. Price of LABOUR. In harveft, is. a day and board. In hay-time, 10 d. and ditto. In winter, 6 d. and ditto. Reaping wheat, 6 s. barley, 5 s. 6 d. » — oats, 5 s. 6 d. beans, 7 s. to 8 s. 6d* Ditching, 3 d. to 5 d. Firft man's wages, 10/. Next ditto, 7/. Boy of ten or twelve years, 38 s. Dairy maid, 3/. 10 s. Other ditto, 3 /. Women per day, in harveft, 6 d. and board. In hay-time, $d. and ditto. In winter, 4 d. and ditto. Manufactures. The principal manufactures of this county are woollen cloth, cottons and tickens. Market To w n s, &c. The market towns are Warrington, Newton, Pref- ect, Liverpool, Ormfkirk, Wigan, Bolton, Manchefter, Rochdale, Bury, Haflingden, Blackburn, Charley, Pref- ton, Ecclefton, Kirkharft, Poulton, Garftang, Lan- cafter, Hawkefhead, Cartmel, Ulverfton, Dalton, Horn- by, Clithero, Coin, and Burnley. We entered this county by crofting the river Merfee, at Warrington, a tolerable large, neat, old built, po- pulous, and rich town, one hundred and eighty-two miles diftant from London. Here is a fine ftone bridge over the Merfee, and a charity fchool, where twenty- four poor boys are taught and cloathed, out of an eftate given by Peter Leigh, Efq. Some of the boys are taught grammar till they are old enough for apprenticefliip : at which time they have a bible, common-prayer book, and a fuit of cloaths given them. This town is chiefly in- habited by reputable tradefmen ; and the manufactures of fail -cloth, and facking, are very confiderable here. The firft is fpun by women and girls, who earn about two pence a day. It is then bleached ; which is done by men who earn ten fhillings a week; after bleaching, it is wound by women, whofe earnings are two {hillings and fix-pence a week : next, it is warped by men, who earn feven {hillings a week ; and then ftarched ; the earnings, ten {hillings and fix-pence a week. The laft operation is the weaving, in which the men earn nine {hillings, the women five {hillings, and the boys three {hillings and fix-pence a week. The fpinners, who are women, in the facking branch earn fix {hillings a week; then it is wound oh bobbins by women and children, whofe earnings are four-pence aday; then the ftarchers take it ; they earn fix-fhillings a week ; after which it is wove by men at nine {hillings a week. The fail-cloth employs about three hundred A a weavers, 9° L A N C A SHI RE. weavers, and the facking one hundred and fifty ; and they reckon twenty fpinners, and two or three other hands to every weaver. During the war the fail-cloth branch was very brifk, grew a little faint upon the peace, but is now, and .has been for fome time, pretty well recovered, though not fo good as in the war. The facking manufacture was better alfo in the war; but is always brifk. The fpinners never {land ftill for want of work ; they always have it if they pleafe; but weavers are fometimes idle for want of yarn, which, confidering the number of poor in the neighbourhood, the fpinners living chiefly, in Chefhire, is melancholy to think of. Here is a fmall pin-manufactory, which employs two or three hundred children, who earn from one {billing to two {hillings a week. Another of fhoes for exportation ; that employs four or five hundred men, who earn nine {hilling a week. Upon the whole thefe manufactures are very advan- tageous, as they employ above eleven thoufand hands. Befides thofe already mentioned, there is another very confiderable one in the neighbourhood for that fort of linen called huckaback ; of which, it is faid, five hun- dred pounds worth, or more, is fold every week. There are likewife in this town, copper works carried ©n, the proprietor of which has built a very elegant houfe for his own own refidence. Warrington is famous for malt, which is brought here to' fuch perfection, that the ale brewed from it is faid to be no ways inferior to that of Derby, or any the moft noted ales in England. As this town lies in the great road to Cerlifle and Scotland, it has always been judged a pafs of the utmoft importance in the time of war, and therefore the forces of George I. took fpecial care to fecure it during the rebelion in Scotland, and the north of England. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and three annual fairs, viz. July the eighteenth, St. Andrew, and November the thirtieth, for horfes, horned cattle, and cloth. Winwick, not far north of Warrington, is thought to have been the cair-gnntln of the ancient Britons, and appears to have been the favorite manfion of Of- wald, king of Northumberland, by the following lines, in old barbarous characters, in the church of this place : Hie locus, Ofiualde, quondam placuit, tibi valde t Nortbanbumbrorwn fueras Rex, nuncque Polorum Regim ienes, loco pajjiis Marcelda vocato. At the bridge end, near Warrington, there was a priory of Auguftkie friars, founded before the year 1379. Leaving Warrington we continued our journey to Prefcot, and in our way palled through Newton, an ancient borough, by prefcription, one hundred and eighty- feven miles from London, governed by a fteward, bailiff" and burgeffes. Here is a charity fchool, founded in the year 1707, by one Hornby, a yeoman of this place, and endowed with two thoufand pounds; where chil- dren are taught to read, write, and caft accompts ; and are allowed a dinner every fchool day ; and there are ten boys, and as many girls, lodged in a neighbouring hofpital, where they are provided with all forts of ne- ceiTaries, till they are fourteen years of age. This town formerly had a market, but it has been difTufed for many years, and is now remarkable only for the above mentioned charity, for fending twjo members to parlia- ment, who are returned by the {reward of the lord of the manor ; and for two annual fairs, viz. May the feventeeth, and Auguft the twelfth, for horfes, black cattle, and toys. Prefcot is a pretty large town, but far from being a populous one. It is one hundred and ninety miles dif- tant from London, but remarkable only for having a weekly market on Tuefday ; and three annual fairs, viz. June the twelfth, All Saints, and November the firft, for horfes and toys. We next entered Liverpool, Litherpool, or Lirpool, by the Saxons called Lireppole, as is fuppofed, from the waters of the Merfee, fpreading themlelves here like a pool, or fen. This town was incorporated by king John, and had its privileges confirmed by feveral fuc- 3 ceeding . kings : it is governed by a mayor, recorder,, aldermen without limitation, two bailiffs, and forty common-council men, of whom the mayor is one ; the burgeffes are above fifteen hundred. The freemen of this town are alfo free of Briftol in England, and Waterford and Wexford in Ireland. Liverpool is a large, populous, and neat town, one hundred and eighty-three miles from London; it has three handfome parifti churches, and feveral meeting-houfes ; one of the three churches, which has been lately built, is one of the fineft in England. It is dedicated to St. Paul, and is a ftructure that does credit to the town. It ftands in the center of a fquare; fo that it may be viewed to very great advantage; but though handfome in feveral refpects, yet it will by no means ftand the teft of critical examination. The cupola is by no means ftriking ; it does not rife in a bold ftile; its being rib- bed into an octogon, is difadvantageous ; nor is there fimplicity enough in the lantern. There is, befides, a great heavinefs in the breadth of the fpace between the capitals of the pillars and the cornice. Within there is a central circular area of forty feet diameter, inclofed by pillars of the Ionic order. There is much lightnefs, and a fimple elegance in it that is pleafing : but all is hurt by the abfurdity of the fquare cornices above the pillars, which project fo much as to be quite difguffing. This church was raifed at the expence of the parifh, and coft twelve thoufand pounds. The new building of this town, which are daily increafing, are of brick, and very handfome, like the new buildings at London, but not fo high : the ftreets are fpacious, and there is a fine town-houfe, ftanding upon twelve ftone pillars, and under it was the Exchange; but on the 14th of Septem- ber, 1749, the firft ftone was laid of a new Exchange, and an Affembly-room, which are now compleated, and is a quadrangular building furrounding a court, which is inclofed by a double row of Tufcan pillars, and over them another of Corinthian ones ; but the area is fo fmall that it has more the appearance of a well than the court of an edifice. In this building is the affembly- room, fixty-five feet by twenty-five, handfomely fitted up; but the mufic-gallery at one end, is by far too fmall, and might rather be termed a large fhelf ; a blunder too frequently met with in the generality of aflembly- rooms. The card room is prepofterous ; a narrow flip of about eleven feet wide; fo that Lilli- putian card tables muft be made on purpofe for the room, or no paffage remain around them for lpectators. From the cupola on the top of the ftructure is a very fine view of the town. Here is a free fchool, which is a large beautiful ftructure, and was formerly a chapel : and there are feveral alms-houfcs for failors widows, and old people; a work-houfe for employing the poor ; and a charity-fchool, where fifty boys and twelve girls are taught, fed, cloathed, and lodged, by contributions. This is not a very ancient town ; but it is the moft flourifhing in thefe parts, and is a rival even to Briftol, the fecond port in England : within the laft fifty years its cuftoms are increafed ten fold, and its houfes three times as many as they then were. Moft of the inhabitants are merchants, and trade to all foreign parts, except Turky, Greenland, and the Eaft-Indies. It {hares the trade of Ireland and Wales with Briftol. As Briftol trades chieflly to the fouth and weft parts of Ireland, this town has all the trade on the eaft and north ftiores. As Briftol has the trade of fouth Wales, Liverpool has great part of that of north Wales : as Briftol has the fouth-weft counties of England, Liverpool has all the north counties, befides its trade to Chefhire and Staffordfhire, by the navigation of the Merfee, the Weaver and the Dan. The merchants of Liverpool are alfo concerned with thofe of Londonderry in the fiftiery on the north coaft of Ireland j and Liverpool is the moft convenient and moft frequented paffage to that kingdom from London. The river Merfee, at full fea, is here above two miles over, and is crofted by a ferry; but when the boat comes to the fide of the town, the paffengers are brought on fhore on the ftioulders of men, who wade knee-deep in the mud for that purpofe. Ships of any burden may come up with their full loading, and ride before LANCASHIRE. 9i before the town, which is quite open and unfortified ; but the harbour is defended on the fouth fide by a caftle founded by king John, and on the weft by a ftrong tower. There is a wet dock, with iron flood-gates, at the call: end of the town, made by act of parliament in the reign of queen Anne, that will hold eighty or a hun- dred fail of mips. But the entrance of this dock from the open harbour was atfirft fo narrow, thatveffels could not fafely go in or out. An act of parliament was there- fore palled in the year 1738, for enlarging it, for erect- ing a pier in the harbour, on the north and fouth fides of the entrance, and for putting up a fufficient number of lamps to lighten it. This and many other noble improvements are now carried into execution ; one very fine new dock, of a circular form, is finifhed, and defended by a pier, all excellently well faced with ftone, and perfectly fecure from ftorms. Out of this is an entrance into another, called the New Dock, now executing, of a large fize, capable of containing feveral hundred fail, and faced in the fame manner all round with large ftone : out of this is to be a paffage into another very capacious one, called the Dry Pier, and this again leads into two others, called the Old and South Docks, and likewife has an entrance by the river from the fea : into this, likewife, open three very noble docks for building, admirably contrived. Thefe three, Dry Pier, and Old and South Docks, are totally furrounded by the town ; fo that fhips of four, five, fix hundred, and fome of nine hundred tons burthen, lay their broad fides to the quays, and goods are hoifted out of them, even into many of the warehoufes of the merchants. The docks, therefore, at this time, are the glory of Liverpool, and are undoubtedly much fuperior to any mercantile ones in Britain. The cuftom- houfe adjoining, is not only a commodious, but an elegant ftruclure. The Merfee is navigable for fhips of burthen as high as Warrington, and alfo-up the river Weaver, which is called the South Channel ; but little is fent either way, except rock fait and Chefhire cheefe, of which great quantities are fhipped off for the welt and fouth parts of England. Part of this town is fupplied with frefh water, from fprings about four miles off ; and is conveyed by pipes, purfuant to an act of parliament paffed in the reign of queen Anne. There is a manufacture of porcelane at this place, which employs many hands ; the men earn in it, from feven fhillings to ten fhillings a week. Likewife a flocking manufactory, in which they earn from feven fhillings to nine. Alfo two glafs-houfes, in which the earnings are nine or ten fhillings a week. The in- habitants of this town are fuppofed to amount to near forty-thoufand perfons. Liverpool fends two members to parliament ; has a weekly market on Saturday ; and two annual fairs, viz. the twenty-fifth of July, and the eleventh of November, for horfes and horned cattle. In the neighbourhood of this town are frequent horfe- races, on a five mile courfe, the fineft, for the length, in England ; and a little out of the town is a very pretty new walk, fpread on one fide with fmall planta- tions, and looking on the other, down on the town and river. A coffee-houfe, and other buildings are erected upon it. This is lately done, andmuft be acknowledged a good improvement. In the year 1611, feveral Saxon coins were dug up at Little-Crofby, near Liverpool. From hence we palled unto Ormfkirk, a handfome town, with a good inland trade, one hundred and ninety miles from London. This place contains nothing re- markable. It has a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annual fairs, viz. Whit-Monday, and September the eighth, for horned cattle and horfes. In the neighbourhood of this town lies Latham, anciently the feat of lord Latham ; to which belongs a very large eftate, and a fine park. Latham-houfe is ^»oted for having been gallantly defended in the civil wars by a woman, the lady Charlotte, countefs of Derby, who held it to the laft extremity againft the parliament forces, which could never reduce her to capitulate, but kept the place glorioufly, till the arrival of prince Rupert, who relieved her. It was, however, deftroyed in a fecond ficge ; fold out of the Latham family ; and is now in the pofieffion of Sir Thomas Bootle, who has built a magnificent houfe. There are feveral excellent fprings of chalybeat waters in this county ; the moft remarkable of which is at La« tham, called Maudlin's-Well, which has performed many remarkable cures. It was walled in and covered at the expence of Charles, late earl of Derby. Though this fpring is not near the fea, nor any fait rivers, yet it ufed to throw up marine fhells in great quantities, till mill-ftones were laid upon it, which now prevent that inconveniency. This fpring would be more fre- quented if there were better accommodations around it. It is faid to be impregnated with vitriol, fulphur, and oker mixed with iron, lapis fcifrilis, and a marine fait united with a better purging fait. About this place, likewife, is found a bituminous earth, which yields a fcent much like the oil of amber; and an oil may be extracted from it, little inferior that of amber, in its moft valuable qualities. The country people cut it into pieces, and burn it;, mftead of candles. There is a remarkable fpring of fait water at Barton, near Ormfkirk; a quart of which will produce eight ounces of fait, though $ quart of fea water will yield but an ounce and a h.&i'F. At Barfceugh,, near Ormfkirk, Robert Fitz Henry, lord of Latham, inf the time of Richard I. founded a priory of Black canons, dedicated to St. Nicholas ; which, at the time of the diffolution, had a prior of five religious, and forty-eight fervants, whofe yearly revenues were valued at one hundred and twenty two pounds, five fhillings and feven pence. We next came to Wigan, or Wiggin, a neat well built town, pleafantly fituated near the fonrce of the Dowgles, in the poft road to Lancafter, orte hundred and ninety five miles from London. King Henry I. erected it into a corporation-, and by charters of queen Elizabeth, and king Charles II. it is governed by a mayor, recorder, twelve aldermen, two bailiffs, and a fword and mace bearer. It has a ftately church, one of the beft endowed in the county ; and the redror of it is always lord of the manor. Thii town is famous for the manufacture of coverlets, ru n ' s graodfon, who died in /590, 4 and Gilbert his fon, who founded the ftately hofpita?, in this town which he endowed with 20o\. per annum. his great grand-father above-mentioned likewife left 200 1. a year for ever to the poor of the parifh. The gift of the hofpital is perpetuated by the follow- ing infeription over the gate: The Hofpital of the Right Hononourable Gilbert, Earl of Shrewfbury, erected and fettled by the Right Honourable Henry, Earl of Norwich, Earl Marfhal of England, great grand fon of the faid Earl, in purfuance of his laft will and teftament, Anno 1678. King James the firft founded a grammar fchool in this town, and appointed t si rteen fchool btrrgeiles, to manage the revenue, and nominate the mafter and ufher. Here are befides two charity fchonls, one for thirty boys, and the other for the fame number of girls. There was for- merly a very fine caltle here, buile by Henry III. with a noble manfion-houfe, the feat of the dukes of Norfolk, in which Mary queen of Scots was prifoner fifteen or fixteen years. After the death of king Charles the firft, it was deftroyed with divers others by order of parlia- ment. The lord of the manor has a prifon here, and holds x court every three weeks. The firft mill fnr turning grind-ftones in England were erected in this town. Sheffield has a weekly market on Tuefday, and two annu . fairs, v-iz. Tuefday after Trinity-Sunday, and November the iwenty-fixth, for cattle and horfes. Near Sheffield is a park, where, in the laft century, an oak was cut down which had above ten thoufand feet of board in it ; and in the fame park another was relied, the trunk of which was fo large, that two men on horfe- back, one on each fide the tree, as it lay along the ground, could not lee the crowns of each other *s hats. There are ftill to be feen the remains of a Roman for- tification bi tween Sheffield and Rotherham, Here is likewife the famous trench, by fome called Devil's bank, by others Danes Bank ; it extends five miles in length, and in fome places goes by the name of Kemp Bank, but in others Temple's Bank. At Ecklesfield, near Sheffield, was an al-ien priory of benedictine monks, fubordinate to the abbey of St. Wan- dragifilius, in the diocefe of Roan in Normandy. Erom Sheffield we proceedeJ to Rotherham, fo called from its fituation near the bank of the Rother, at its- confluence with the Don, over which here is a fine ftone bridge. It is a neat handfome town, one hundred and fixty-one miles from London. Here is a church which is a fair ftone building in the form of a cathedral, with an handfome fpire fteeple ; and a charity fchool for forty- two boys. Thomas Scott, alias Rotherham archbifhop of York, who was a native of ihi3 pi ace, in the year 1481 founded a college here on the bridge, dedicated to our Saviour, confuting of a provoft, five priefts, fix chori- fters, and three mafters, one for grammar, one for mufic, and another for writing ; and endowed with revenue?, which upon the fuppreifion were valued at eighty-eight pounds twelve fhillings per annu-n. This college has lon< r iince been converted into an alrns-houfe. Rotherham is famous for its ir .n works, of which it contains one very large one, belonging to Mr. Walker, and one or two fmaller. Near the town are two col- lieries, out of which the iron ore is dug, as well as the coals to work it with ; thefe collieries and works em- ploy together near five hundred hands. The ore is herj worked into metal,, and then into bar iron, and the bars fent into Sheffield to be worked, and to all parts of the country ; this is one branch of their bufinefs. Another is the foundery, to which they run the ore into metal pigs, and then caft it into all forts of boilers, pans* plough-fhares, Sec. &c. &c. The forge-men work by weight, and earn from eight {hillings to twenty {hillings a week, but twelve or fourteen {hillings the average; the foundery men are paid by the week, from feven to ten fhillings. No boys are employed younger than fourteen, fuch from three to four fhillings a week. In the collieries, the men earn from feven to nine {hil- lings a week. There are few women employed ; ?.n,l only in piling old bits of fcrap iron (which, ate brought Y O R K S HIRE. n 3 to Rotherham by way of Hull from Holland, London, &c.) into the form of fmall pyramids, upon round pieces of ftone, after which they are fet into the furnace till they become of a malleable heat, and are then worked over again. Beiides the iron manufactory, they have a pottery, in which is made the white, cream-coloured (Staffordfhire) and toitoife-fhell earthen-ware. It employs about two or three and twenty men, and forty boys ; the meri are paid nine {hillings a week for day-work, but much is done by the piece, in which cafe they all earn more, up to fifteen {hillings a week. Boys of nine or ten years old have two {hillings, and tWo {hillings and fix- pence a week. There is alio a very large quantity of lime burnt in this town, which conftantly employs about twenty hand?, that earn at a medium nine {hillings a week. Rotherham has a weekly market on Monday, and two annual fairs, viz. Whitfun-Monday, for horned cattle, and fheep ; and December the firft, for cattle and' horfes. In the neighbourhood of Rotherham, is Wentworth- caftle, the leat of the earl of Stafford. The new front to the lawn is one of the moft beautiful in the world. It is furprizingly light and elegant; the portico, fupported by fix pillars of the Corinthian order, is exceedingly elegant ; the triangular cornice inclofing the arms, as light as poflible ; the balluftrade gives a fine effect to the whole building, which is exceeded by few in lightnefs, unity of parts, and that pleafing fimplicity which mult ftrike every beholder. The hall is forty by forty, the ceiling fupported by very handfome Corinthian pillars } and divided into com- partments by cornices elegantly worked and gilt; the divifions painted in a very pleafing manner. On the left hand you enter an anti-chamber, twenty feet fquare, then a bed-chamber of the fame fize, and thirdly a drawing room of the like dimenfion ; the pier glafs is large, but the frame rather in a heavy ftile. Over the chimney is fome carving by Gibbons. The other fide of the hall opens into a drawing room, forty by twenty-five. The chimney-piece exceedingly elegant; the cornice furrounds a plate of Siena marble, upon which is a beautiful feftoon of flowers in white ; it is fupported by two pillars of Siena wreathed with White, than which nothing can have a better effect. The door-cafes are very elegantly carved and gilt. Here are three fine flabs, one of Egyptian granate, and two of Siena marble ; alfo feveral pictures. Carlo Maratt. David with Goliath's head, fuppofed by this matter ; fine. Sahator Rofa. TwO cattle pieces, exceedingly fine, and in a more finifhed and agreeable ftile, than what is commonly feen of this mafter. Guido. l^iana, copied from this mafter; the naked body is painted well, but the arms in the blue dra- pery very ill done ; it is hot at firft fight clear, whether the figure has a right arm or hot. Paulo Mattea. Abraham. Dining-room, twenty-five by thirty. Here is found the great Earl of Strafford, by Vandyke ; the expreflion of the countenance and the painting of the hands very fine. Going up-ftairs, Vou enter the gallery, which is one of the moft beautiful rooms in England. It is one hundred and eighty feet long by twenty-four broad, and thirty high. It is in three divifions ; a large one in the center, and a fmall one at each end ; the divifion is by very magnificent pillars of marble, with gilt capitals. In the fpaces between thefe pillars and the^wall, are ftatues, Apollo, An Egyptian Prieftefs, Bacchus, and Ceres. This noble gajlery is defigned and ufed as a rendez- vous-room, and an admirable one it is ; one end is fur- nifhed for mufic, and the other with a billiard-table. This is the ftile which fuch rooms fhould always be re- gulated in. At each end is a very elegant Venetian window, contrived (like feveral others in the houfe) to 55 admit the air by Aiding down the pannel under the center part of it. The cornices of the end-divifions are of marble, richly ornamented. Here are feveral valuable pictures. | Borgognone. Two battle pieces. Vandyke. Charles I. in the Ifle of Wight ; very fine. BaJJan. Wifemen's Offerings. Carlo Maratt : Himfelf, and Turkifh lady kept by him ; the lady is beautiful and graceful : Carlo had a better tafte than Rubens. Titian. Miracle by St. Paul ; group and colouring very fine. Carlo Maratt. Chrift in the garden, 2nd the bloody iffue cured; very fine. Michael Angelo. Two fharpers cheating a gentleman at cards ; very fine. Vifion of St. John ; the colour- ing and attitude bad. Lord Strafford's library is a good room, thirty by twenty, and the book-cafes handfomely difpofed. Her ladyfhip's drefiing-room is extremely elegant, about twenty-five feet fquare, hung with blue India paper ; the cornice, ceiling and ornaments, all ex- tremely pretty; the toilette boxes of gold, and very handfome. Her ladyfhip's reading clofet is exceflively elegant, hung with a painted fattin, and the ceiling in Mofaics feftooned with hfheyfuckles ; the cornice of glafs paint- ed with flowers. It is a fweet little room, and muft pleafe every fpectator. On the other fide of the drefling- room is a bird clofet, in which are many cages of fing- ing birds : the bed-chamber twenty-five fquare, is very handfome; and the whole apartment pleafingly com- plete. But Wentworth-caftle is more famous for the beau- ties of the ornamented environs, than for that of the houfe, though the front is. fuperior to many. The water and the woods adjoining, are fketched with great tafte The firft extends through the park in a mean- dering courfe^ and wherever it is viewed, the termina- tions are no where feen, having every where the effect of a real and very beautiful river ; the groves of oaks fill up the bends of the ftream in the moft elegant manner. Here advancing thick to the very banks of the water; there appearing at a diftance, breaking away to a few fcattered trees in fome fpots, and in others joinin> their branches into the moft folemn brownnefs. The water, in many places, is feen from the houfe between the trees of feveral fcattered clumps moft picturefquely • in others it is quite loft behind hills, and breaks every where upon the view in a ftile that cannot be too much admired. The fhrubbery that adjoins the Hoiife is difpofed with the utmoft elegance. The waving flopes doited with firs, pines, &c. are exceflively pretty, and the temple is fixed at fo beautiful a fpot, as to command the fweet landfcape of the park, and the rich profpect of the ad- jacent country, which rifes in a bold manner, and pre- fents an admirable view of cultivated hills. Winding up the hill among the plantations and woods which are laid out in an agreeable tafte, we came to the bowling green which is thickly encompalfed with ever- greens ; retired and beautiful with a very light and pretty Chiriefe temple on one fide of it ; and from thence crofs a dark walk catching a moft beautiful view of a bank df diftant wood. The next object is a ftatue of Ceres in a retired fpot, the arcade appearing with a o-ood effect, and through the three divifions of it, the diftant profpect is feen very finely. The lawn which leads up to the caftle is elegant ; there is a chump of firs on one fide of it, through which the diftant profpect is feen, and the above mentioned ftatue df Ceres, caught in the hollow of a dark grove, with the moft pictiirefqtie elegance ; ahd is one among the few iriftances of ftatue s being employed in gardens with real tafte. From the platform of gtafs within the caftle walls (in the center of which is a ftatue of the late earl who built it) over the battlements, you behold a furprizing profpect on which ever fide you look ; but the view which plcafed us beft, is that oppofite the entrance, where you look down upon a valley which is exlenfive. finely bounded G g by ii4 YORK h y rifing cultivated hills, and very complete in being v ommandcd at a fingle look notwithftanding its vaft ariety. Within the menagery at the bottom of the park, is a mod pleafing fhrubbery extremely fequeftered, cool, fhady, and agreeably contrafted to that by the houfe from which fo much diftant profpect is beheld ; the latter is what may be called fine ; but the former is pleafingly agreeable. We proceeded through the menagery (which is pretty well ftocked with pheafants, &c.) to the bottom of the fhrubbery, where is an alcove in a fequeftered fituation ; in front of it the body of a large oak is feen at the end of a walk in a pleafing ftile ; but on ap- proaching it, three more are caught in the fame manner, which from uniformity in fuch merely rural and natural objecls difpleafes at the very firft fight. This fhrubbery, or rather plantation, is fpread over two fine flopes, the valley between which is a long winding hollow dale, ex- quifitely beautiful ; the banks are thickly covered with great numbers of very fine oaks, whofe noble branches in fome places almoft join over the grafs lawn, which winds through this elegant valley ; at the upper end is a gothic temple, over a little grot, which forms an arch, and together have a moft pleafing effect ; on a near view, this temple is found a light, airy, and ele- gant building. Behind it is a water fweetly fituated j furrounded by hanging wood in a beautiful manner, an ifland in it prettily planted ; and the bank on the left fide rifing elegantly from the water, and fcattered with fine oaks. From the feat of the river God, the view into the park is pretty, congenial with the fpot, and the temple caught in a proper ftile. Near this town ftands Sandbeck, a noble feat of the earl of Scarborough ; which, when the beautiful lawn before the houfe, and the extent of the adjoining woods, remarkable for the improvements of art, as well as for the bignefs and flourifhing ftate of the trees, are con- fidered, may vie with moft feats, in refpect to fitua- tion. Not far from hence are the ruins of Roch, or Roch- abbey, hid by a fteep woody cliff", towards the fouth, and by large rocks towards the north, and north -eaft : the north and fouth-weft fides of thefe ruins are bounded by two large woods : the circumference of that on the fouth-weft, called Kings -Wood, is about a mile and a half, and that on the north-weft, called from a large farm on one fide of it, Grange-Wood, is about four or five miles. To the eaft is a large bed of water, which is the collection of a rivulet that runs amongft the ruins : the banks on each fide this water are fteep, and delightfully clothed with trees of various forts, inter- fperied with feveral peeping rocks and ruins. Under one of the rocks is the mouth of a cavern, which it is faid had formerly a communication under ground with the monaftery in Tickhill-Caftle, about two miles diftant ; but that the paflage is now flopped by the falling in of the earth. Several traditional ftories are almoft univer- fally told, and believed by a number of the inhabitants hereabout, of ridiculous pranks which have been played by feveral goblins and ghofts in this cave and about the abbey. One fide of the nef of the building, from north to fouth, under the middle tower, and fome old pillars and arches are all that are now left, except fe- veral fmall fragments which are difperfed for above half a mile round, great part having been carried away at different times, to repair adjacent churches, or build gentlemen's feats ; but particular care was taken by the late earl of Scarborough, to prelerve what remains. Thefe ruins, among which large trees are now grown up, and the contiguous borders from a picture inexpref- fibly charming, efpecially when viewed with the lights and fhadows they receive from a weftern fun ; and its retired fituation free from every noife, except the murmur of a limpid rivulet, together with the vcftiges of fepulchral monuments, and the gloomy fhades of thofe venerable greens, ivy and yew, which creep up, and luxuriantly branch out and mix with the beautiful whitenefs of the rocks ; gives fuch a folemnity to this fcene, as ftrikes an aweful reverence in the beholder, and infpires a con- templative pleafant melancholy. This abbey was found- I SHIRE. ed by Richard de Builli, and Richard Fitz-Tuvils, iti 1 147, and dedicated by them to the Virgin Mary- with yearly revenues of two hundred and twenty-four pounds. The ftone of which this abbey is built, was dug out •f the famous quarry near adjoining, and well known to the mafons by the name of Bach-Abbey-ftone, which whitenefs and beauty in every refpect is not to be equalled. Another object worthy of notice is the tower and fpire of the church of Laughton, in this neighbour- hood ; which, for delicacy and juftnefs of proportion, is not excelled by any other gothic piece of the kind. It is fomewhat fuprifing, that lb elegant and ornamen- tal a ftructure, fuperior by far to all others round it, fhould have been bellowed upon a village church. This edifice ftands upon a very high hill, which at a diftance greatly refembles that at Harrow, in the county of Middlefex. The height of the fteeple to the weather- cock is one hundred and ninety-five feet, and by its fituation rendered the moft confpicuous in every point of view of any perhaps in the whole kingdom, being feen from many places at the diftance of forty, fifty, and fixty miles. It has a peculiar beauty when viewed in the diagonal line, the pinnacles at the corners of the tower being joined by the arches to the fpire, as are others above them, which break its out-lines, and give at the fame time an elegant diminution ; but time has fo greatly injured it, that, without confiderable repairs, it will not ftand many years longer. The duke of Leeds, whofe feat at Kiveton is worth a ftranger's attention, has cut a viftra through the woods of his park, to take this fteeple into his view. You enter firft the hall, which is fifty feet by thirty, painted by Sir James Thornhill. Around it are feveral antique ftatues, fome of which are very finely executed. Cupid. Lucretia; the drapery admirably light and fine ; and the air of the head beautiful. Hercules. Venus. Paris. Diana. Her drapery good, but the folds rather too fmall. In the anti-room, among other pictures are, Holbein, Portrait of the earl of Worcefter. Lord Cecil. The hands and face very fine. Vandyke. Marquis of Montrofe inimitably fine; the features and countenance noble, and the attitude eafy and elegant. King and Queen of Bohemia. Drawing-room, twenty-four fquare. Bed-chamber. Clofet. A mufic-piece by Titian. The drapery pretty. Dining-room, thirty-fix by twenty-five. Rubens. The four parts of the world. The figures are thofe of Rubens, a pure flefhy female, but the beafts furprizingly fine ; the panther equal to any thing ever painted, and the crocodile admirably done. The groupe vile. Titian. The four Evangelifts ; heavy and inexpreffive, but the difFufion of light good, the air of the heads is fine, and the hands very well executed. Paul Veronefe. Marriage of Cana. A ftrange groupe ; the drapery very bad ; nor is there any propriety of action : the expreffion is however ftrong. Solomon receiving his wifdom. The figure of Solomon is that of a fleeping clown. The attitude of the Deity in the air, and the expreffion of his counte- nance are fine : the colours bad. David and Nathan, by the fame mafter, but unknown. The colours and manner the fame. Reynolds. The late Duchefs of Leeds ; a moft fweet at- titude and exquifite eyes. Drawing-rcom, twenty-five fquare. Vandyke. Earl of Strafford ; fine. Rubens. Sea goddefles ; the figures, attitudes and colours are not pleafing. Ditto. Venus and Cupid. By no means agreeable. Scbalken. Old woman with a candle. The expreffion of the light ftrong and fine. Baffan. Y O R K S II I R E. Bajfan. The creation. The landfcapes : fine. Adoration of the fliepherds ; ditto, Lucretia and Tarquin ; the picture of an old hag, pulling a lctcher by the nofe. Carlo Marrat. Virgin and child. Wife men's offerings. Figure of the Virgin, good. Holbein. Erafmus and Sir Thomas More; very fine. Ojlend. A man reading a paper. The minute expreffion ftrong. Vandyke. Earl of Derby ; fine. On the right of the hall is the flair-cafe, painted by Le Guere, thirty-two fquare by fixty high. The faloon fifty-four by thirty-four j here are the fol- lowing antiques. Nero. The head and attitude very fine. Paris. Venus and Cupid. The head, and turn of the neck ex- quifite ; and the attitude elegant. Cleopatra. Nothing can be finer than this drapery ; the turn of the head is good, but the attitude wants ex- preffion. The pictures are, Guido. Death of St. Sebaftian ; fine. The colours, naked, and lights expreffive. Titian. Ditto tying to a tree ; fine colouring, but no expreffion. The veftibule, twenty-three fquare. Canaletti. Six views of Venice; of a fine and blooming brilliancy. Pouftn. Landfcape ; fine. The figures excellent, the hills and trees noble, but the iky appears to be of too deep a blue. Rubens. His family. Ancana. Two views of Rome ; the architecture fine. Dreffing room, twenty-five by twenty-one. Titian. Philip the fecond of Spain: exceeding fine; the fame as at Devonfhire Houfe. Bed-chamber, twenty-three by twenty-one. Clofet. Vandyke. King Charles on horfe-back. The horfe by Wooton ; fine. Dreffing-room, twenty-five by twenty-four. Bed-chamber, twenty-five by twenty-two. Clofet. A nun, the drapery excellent. A landfcape ; a waterfall, good. Bed-chamber, thirty-four by twenty-four. Portrait of the Duke of Florence and Machiavel ; ex- cellent. Drawing-room, thirty- three by thirty-one. Bartclomeo. Armida and Rinaldo. Titian. Figure of a man and a woman. Danae and the golden fhower, the colours are pretty geod, but the drawing appears to be bad. Other pictures not hung in order, are, Holbein. Alderman Hewet ; very fine. Vandyke. Earl of Strafford, and his fecretary. Earl of Arundel. David withGolia h's head. Titian. Himfelfat mufic. The colours, drapery and attitude fine, but the diffufion of light quite un- natural. Bajfan. Landfcape. Titian. Lot and his daughters ; vile. Portrait of the Duke of Newburgh ; very fine. Having viewed Kiveton houfe, we directed our way to Tickhall, or Tickhill, an ancient town, one hun- dred and forty nine miles from London. It appears to have been a place of confiderable note in the time of the Saxons, and to have taken its name from a mount or hill here, which remains to this day, and is by Camden called Moles Edita. It gives name to an honour of a very extenfive jurifdiction, and to which a great many manors owe fait and fervice. This honour has been veiled in the crown ever fince the reign of king Henry IV. and is leafed out to a fubject. Here is a large handfome church, a charity fchool, and an hof- pital. On the hills above-mentioned are the remains of an ancient cattle, fuppofed to have been built before the conquefl ; in it was a royal free chapel, or collegiate church, founded by queen Eleanor, wife to king Henry II. and given by king John to the canons of the cathedral church of Roan, in Normandy. It was after- wards granted to the prior and convent of Lenton, in Nottinghamfhire ; and laftly to the abbot and convent of St. Peter, at Weftminfter. The ruins of this caftle are furrounded with a wide and deep moat, and a wall about five feet high ; and on the north-eaft fide is an immenfe mount, with a round tower on the top of it. About the center of the fpace, within the Walls, is an houfe; which, from its great number of apartments, and the paintings of faints and crucifixes on the walls* plainly denotes its having been a religious houfe. On the weft fide of this town was an houfe of Auflin friars in the beginning of the reign of king Edward I. and before the year 1225,- here was an hof- pital dedicated to St. Leonard ; and likewife another in the year 1326, in a maifh land near this town. Tickhill has a weekly market on Saturday; but no annual fair. While we continued in thefe parts we vifited Went- worth-houfe, the feat of the marquis of Rockingham, fituated in the midlt of a mod beautiful country, and in a park that is one of the mod exquifite fpots in the world. It confifls of an irregular quadrangle, inelofing three courts, with two grand frvnts. The principal one to the park extends in a line upwards of fix hundred feet, forming a center ai.d two wings. Nothing in architecture can Lc finer than this cent , T 'hich extends nineteen windows. In tne mi ' Me, a mok n ' ! : portico projects twenty feet, and is fixty long in the area 5 fix magnificent Corinthian pillars fupport it in frorA, ' one at each end. This portico is lightnefs; and elegance itfelf ; the projection is bok', and when vjew-ed aflant from one fide, admits the light thiough the pillars at the ends, which has a mod happy effect, and adds furpriz- ingly to the lightnefs of the edifice. The bafes of the pillars reft on pedeflals, in a line upon the ruftics, which by fome criticks has been objected to, by aflert- ing that the pedeftal of a column ought to be fixed on the ground alone; but without enquiring into the pro- priety of fuch ftrict rules, it may be remarked that the effect of breaking them, is a beauty ; for as it is always neceffary to inclofe the area of the portico with a balluflrade, when there are no pedeflals, the fhafts of the pillars are cut by it, which hurts the beauty of their proportion, and has in general a bad effect. But in this portico, the balluflrade extending from pedeftal to pedeftal, the fhafts are feen complete, and the unity of the view not in the leaft deftroyed. The tirnpanum is excellently proportioned ; at the points are three very light ftatues ; the cornice, the arms, and the capitals of the pillars admirably executed. A balluflrade crowns the reft of the front, at each end a ftatue, and between them a vafes ; the whole uniting to foim a center at once pleafing and magnificent ; in which lightnefs vies with grandeur, and fimplicity with elegance. The ruftic floor confifts of a very large arcade, and two fuites of rooms. In the the arcade is a fine group in ftatuary, containing three figures as large as life, in which one of gigantic ilatureis getting the better of two others ; the fculpture is Foggini ; the upper parts of the two lower figures are finely executed ; the turn of the backs, and the expreffion of the countenances, good; the forced ftruggling attitude of the hinder one very great, efpecially that of pufhing his hand againft the body of his antagonift. On the left of this arcade is the common apartment ; firft, a fupping-room, thirty by twenty-two, and fourteen high; a drawing-room, thirty-three by twenty-five; anti-room to the dining- room, and the dining-room, thirty -fix by twenty-five. On the other fide, offices for the fteward, butlers, &c. •Upon this floor are an immenfe number of rooms of all forts ; and among others a great many admirable good apartments, of anti-room, dreffing-room, bed-chamber, furnifhed with great elegance in velvets, damafks, &c. and gilt and carved ornaments. Upon the principal floor you enter firft the grand hall, which is, beyond all comparifon, the fineft room in England ; 1 16 YORKSHIRE. England ; the juftnefs of the proportion s fuch as mult ftrikc every eye with the moft agreeable furprize on entering it. It is fixty feet fquare, and forty high ; a o-allcry ten feet wide is carried round the whole, which leaves the area a cube of forty feet ; this circumftance gives it an elegance and a magnificence unmatched in any other hall. The gallery is fupported by eighteen moft noble Ionic fluted pillars, incrufted with a pafte, reprefenting in the moft natural manner feveral marbles. The fhafts are of Siena, and fo admirably imitated as not to diftinguifhed from reality by the moft experi- enced and moft fcrutinizing eye ; the bafes pedeftals, the capitals of white marble, and the fquare of the bafes of verd antique. Nothing can have a more beautiful effect than thefe pillars ; thofe only on one fide of the room are yet completed ; but the moft fkilful hands from Italy are kept conftantly employed in finiftiing this noble defign. Between the pillars are eight niches in the wall for ftatues, which are ready to be placed when the pillars, walls, and niches are finifhed for receiving them. Over thefe niches are very elegant relievo's in pannels, from the defigns of Mr. Stewart. Above the gallery are eighteen Corinthian pilafters, which are alfo to be incrufted with the imitation of marbles. Between the fhafts are pannels ftruck in ftucco, and between the ca- pitals feftoons in the fame, in a ftile which cannot fail of pleafing the moft cultivated tafte. The ceiling is of compartments in ftucco, fimply magnificent, and ad- mirably executed. His lordfhip defigns a floor in com- partments anfwerable to the ceiling, of the fame work- manfhip as the columns. — To the left of this noble hall is a grand fuite of apartments ; containing, Firft, a fupping-room, forty feet by twenty-two. The ceiling compartments in ftucco ; the center a plain large oblong ; at each end a fquare, in which is a moft ele- gant relieve, reprefenting two angels fupporting an urned cup of flowers refting on the head of an eagle; the di- vilions on each fide containing fcrolls ; the whole ex- ceedingly elegant. The chimney-piece very handfome, the frieze containing the Rockingham fupporters, with a plain fhield, in white marble, finely polifhed ; the columns feftooned in the fame. Second, a drawing-room thirty-five, by twenty-three. The ceiling coved in ftucco; the center an oval in ob- long, with medallions in the corners of the fquare cut by the oval, inclofed in wreaths of laurel furrounded by fcrolls ; the cove riling to it ftruck in fmall o&agon compartments, chequered by little fquarcs, extremely elegant. The cornice, frieze, and architrave of the wainfcot beautifully carved ; nothing more elegant of the kind than the fcroll of carving on the frieze. The chimney-piece of white marble, pobfhed ; the cornice fupported by figures of captives, in the fame; on the frieze, feftoons of fruit and flowers ; on each fide a vafe, on which are four fmall but elegant figures in relievo, fomething in the attitude of the hours in the Aurora of Guido. Third, a dining-room forty feet fquare; the ceiling of ftucco; in the center a large octagon; around it eight divifions, within four of which are relievos of boys fupporting a fhield, inclofing a head in a blaze, by a wreath of fruit ; over it a bafket of flowers on a (hell in- verted ; and under it an eagle fpreading its wings. In the other divifion are rays in circles of fret-work. The defign of the whole in a moft juft and elegant tafte. Ths chimney-piece large and handfome, of white polifhed marble ; above it architectural ornaments ; a cornice, Sec. fupported by Corinthian pillars ; the whole finely carved, and furrounding a fpace left for a picture. In the walls of the room are pannels in ftucco, of a bold and fpiritcd defign, and like the ceiling, exceedingly well executed. Over the doors are fixhiftorical relievos; in the center on each fide a large frame-work for a pic- ture, by which are pannels, inclofing in wreaths four medallions j Theocritus, Hector, Agamemnon, Hyacinthus. On one fide the chimney-piece, in the fa me ftile, Hamilcar ; And on the other, Triolus. Returning to the grand hall, you enter from the other fide another fuite. Firft, an anti-room thirty by twenty ; the ceiling finely finifhed in ftucco. Secondly, the grand drawing-room, thirty-fix fquare ; ceiling the fame. Third, a drefling-room thirty by twenty-five ; by the ceiling coved in ftucco; the center an oval cut in a fquare, elegantly decorated ; the cove rifing to it mofaie'd in fmall fquares, defigned with great tafte. Fourth, the ftate bed-chamber, twenty-five fquare ceiling of ftucco, and elegant. Fifth, another drefling-room, fixteen fquare, commu- nicating with the pafTage which runs behind this iuite of apartments. At the other end of th$ houfe behind the great dinino-- room is the India apartment, a bed-chamber fifteen fquare, with a drefling-room the fame; the chimney-piece extremely elegant ; pillars of Siena . marble. From the other Corner of the hall on the right-hand you enter by a large paflage; the gallery, or "common rendezvous room one hundred and thirty feec by eighteen, hung with India paper; a moft ufeful and agreeable room. To the right, this opens into the new damafk apartment, confifting of a bed-chamber and two drefling- rooms, one of the latter twenty-feven feet by eighteen, the ceiling compartments in ftucco: the chimney-piece furprizingly elegant; a border of Siena marble, fur- rounded by compartments of a black marble ground, inlaid with flowers, fruit, and birds of marble in their natural colours; moft exquifitely finifhed. The bed- chamber, twenty-feven by fifteen, the ceiling very well defigned and executed in ftucco; the other drefling-room (both open into the gallery) twenty-eight by eighteen ; a coved ceiling ftuccoed in compartments extremely neat; the chimney-piece pilafters of Siena, wiih white polifhed capitals fupporting the cornice of white and Siena marble ; the whole very elegant : over it a copy, from Vandyke, of Charles the Firft's Queen, by Lady Fitzwilliams, exceedingly well done ; the face, hair, and drapery excellent. Here is one of the moft curious cabinets in England ; it is in architectural divifions of a center and two wings, on a befement ftory of drawers; a cornice finely wrought of ebony, the frieze of ivory^ and the architecture tortoife-fhell, fupported by Corin- thian fluted pillars of tortoife-fhell and ebony carved in reliefs, the capitals and bafes gilt. The entrance of the building ruftics in tortoife-fhell, the divifions in ivory. By looking in the center on either fide, is a deception of perfpedive; the defign is very elegant, and the workman- fhip excellent. On the other fide of the gallery, you open into a blue damafk drefling-room, twenty-five by twenty-four; here are two pictures by Mr. Weft, which fecms to be in his happieft manner; Diana and Endymion. and Cymon and Iphigene. In the firft, the moft ftriking peculiarity is the light, all ifluing from the crefcent of Diana ; this is fomething of the Concetto, but the execution is fine ; the diffufion fpirited and natural. The turn of her neck and naked arm is very beautiful ; all the colours are fine and brilliant ; and the general harmony very pleafing. In the other piece, the naked bofom of Iphigene is fine, and the turn of her head inimitable. Cymen's figure is good, his attitude eafy and natural ; the colours are glow- ing, and confequently pleafing. Befides thefe pieces, here is likewife a large portrait of the late King on horfe- back ; it is a good one, the attitude very natural. Like- wife a fmall relief in alabafter of a Cupid in a car, drawn by panthers : his attitude very pleafing. Next is the chintz bed-chamber, twenty-four by twenty. After this comes the yellow damafk apartment. The drefling-room eighteen fquare; and the bed-chamber twenty-five by eighteen. Upon a cabinet in this room is a fmall Venus in white marble; fine, delicate, and pleafing; the drapery under her breaft beautiful. 3 The Y O R K S HIRE, The red and white apartment, nineteen fquare ; and a dreffing-room twenty by nineteen. Then into the laft apartment on this fide, very elegantly furnifhed, twenty by eighteen, and twenty-two by twenty. The library fixty by twenty, and nobly furnifhed ; among other particulars are the engravings of antiques ft 'nd in Herculaneum. Befides this very magnificent work, there are in this library a vaft number of books of prints, architecture and medals ; of the laft, his lordfnip has one of the greateft collections in England. From the library is a dire parably fine: the colours very lively, without being tawdry. The general brilliancy excellent. The tree amazingly fine: the cattle good : the figures elegantly grouped : the bridge, water, &c. inimi- table. It may be called, La belle Nature. > Perhaps by Zuccarelli. — Under it. Dead game. The partridge very natural. Landfcape. A glowing heat ; very fine : the finifhing exquifite ; light through the trees, fine. Fruit with a tankard, &c. .Very well done. A fox with a dead fowl. Excellent. A dead hare, &c. fine. The greyhound's head good ; but not curiofity enough in his nofe. Two landfcapes. (Over the doors) Fine. ..The figures elegantly grouped: that of the lake and trees very pleafing. A large battle. Great fire and fpirit. Two fmall landfcapes. Colours admirable ; the rocks and foreft fublimely grand. Butterflies and leaves. Exceedingly well finifhed. A Nativity. Very graceful and pleafing; the Virgin's countenance fine, and her attitude eafy and natu- ral. If the hands are any rule to judge by, I fhould fuppofe this piece by Parmegiano. A Venetian Profpedt. Brilliant and fine. It is in Ca- naleiti's manner. Two pieces, companions ; one of fruit-women : the colours very good. The other, A woman milking a goat, &c. fine ; but not fo brilliant. But the cattle very well done. March ionefs of Rockingham (over the chimney.) The attitude elegant, and drapery good. Two Heads ; Oliver Cromwell, and another, its com- panion. Caftleford, near Pontefradt, appears to have been the Legiolium, or Legitium, of the Romans, and ftands upon a Roman military way that runs from Doncafter to Aberworth. Vaft quantities of Roman coins have, at different times, been dug up here, and are called by the inhabitants of this neighbourhood, Saracens heads. From Ferry-bridge, within a mile of Pontefract, ex- I i tends 122 o R H I tends a large ftonc caufcway, about a mile in length, to a village called Brotherton, whither Margaret, wife of king Edward I. was forced to retire as fhe was hunt- ing, and was delivered of a fon, called from the village, Thomas of Brotherton; this fon was afterwards created earl of Norfolk, and marlhal of England. Not far from the church is a piece of ground of twenty acres, fur- rounded with a trench, and a wall, where, as tradition Informs us, flood the houfe in which the queen was de- livered ; and the tenants are obliged by tenure to keep it furrounded by a wall of ftone. We arrived next at Snath, a fmall inconfiderable town, one hundred and feventy five miles from London ; but by means of the navigation of the rivers Are and Don, near the conflux of which it ftands, is rendered a town of good trade. Here was anciently a fmall Benedic- tine priory, fubordinate to the convent at Selby, found- ed by Girard, archbifhop of York, about the year 1106. Here is a weekly market held on Friday, and three annual fairs, viz. the firft Friday in April, Auguft the tenth, for cattle, horfes and pedlary; and the firft Friday in September for cattle and horfes. At Drax, north-eaft of Snath, William Paynell, in the time of Henry I. founded a priory of Black canons, dedicated to St. Nicholas, and valued upon the diflblu- tion at one hundred and four pounds, fourteen (hillings, and nine-pence per annum. North-weft of this town, at a place called Temple Hurft, Ralph de Haftings, in 11 52, founded a precep- tory of Knights Templers. Thorn, the next town through which we pafled, is fituated upon the river Don, one hundred and fixty- one miles from London, and contains nothing worthy of note except having a weekly market on Wednefday, and two annual fairs, which laft three days each, viz. the firft Monday, Tuefday and Wednefday after June the eleventh, and the firft Monday, Tuefday and Wed- nefday after October the eleventh, for black cattle, horfes and pedlary. At a fmall diftance to the north-eaft of Thorn, lies a moorifh and fenny tract of country called Marfhland, furrounded by the Don, the Idle, the Oufe and other rivers, in which are frequently dug up great quantities of fir and oak trees. Their depth under ground is from one to two yards: the roots are found in various di- rections, from which fome of the trees feem to have been cut off, others broken, and others burnt. In the laft century large canals were made for draining this fpot of ground, in digging which were found gates, ladders, hammers, fhoes, and other fuch things ; together with the entire body of a man, at the bottom of a turf-pit, about four yards deep ; his hair and nails not decayed. Here were alfo feund feveral Roman coins ; and from thefe circumftances, and the fubterraneous wood before-men- tioned, it conjectured that this, and other fuch places, were anciently forefts, in which the 1'ritons had taken refuge, and which were on that account cut down and burnt by the Romans. From Snath we pafled on to Selby, a populous town fituated on the river Oufe, one hundred and feventy two miles from London. It is a place" of considerable trade ; on which account feveral merchants make it their refidence. Here is a handfome church ; but in 1690, part of it, with half of its beautiful fteeple, fuddenly fell down ; it has, however, long fince been rebuilt. Here is a charity-fchool ; and one Mr. Rayner fome years ago left one hundred pounds for teaching the children. This town is remarkable for having been the birth place of king Henry I. on which account 'tis faid, his father, William the Conqueror, in the year 1069, founded a noble abbey here for Benedictine monks, dedicated to St. Mary and St. German, and rated, upon the fuppref- fion, at feven hundred and twenty-nine pounds, twelve (hillings and ten-pence per annum. Selby has a weekly market on Monday, and three an- nual fairs, viz. Eafter Tuefday, June the twenty-fecond, and October the tenth, for cattle, wool, tin and copper waie. We next proceeded to Sherborne, a populous town, about half a mile in length, and one hundred and fe- venty-fix mrles from London. It is fuppofed to have derived its name from the clearnefs of the rivulet which runs by it, or rather from Scire, a divifion, it being fituated on a brook, on the borders of the Elmer. King Athelftan gave it to the fee of York, whofe bifhops had formerly a palace here. In the year 1645, a battle was fought here between the forces of king Charles I. and the Parliament. Robert Hungate, Efq. a moft zealous proteftant, founded an hofpital or fchool in this town, for twenty- four poor orphans, who are allowed each five pounds a year for their maintenance, in lodging, board, and cloathing, from feven to fifteen years of age, and then according to their refpective genius's are put out ap- prentices, or fent to the univerfity ; the provifion mads for the whole of this charity, including the mainte- nance of the. hofpital, and the allowance of forty mark3 a year for four poor fcholars at St. John's College Cambridge, amounts to two hundred and fifty pounds a year. There is a Roman way very high raifed from hence to Aberford. Here is a good harbour for barges at the conflux of the Wherfe and Oufe ; and this place is re- markable for having plenty of cherries. In the year 11 31 here was an hofpital dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen. Sherborn has a weekly market on Friday, and an an- nual fair, held October the fi ah for flax and horfes. . We next proceeded on our way to Aberfcrthy or Aburford, a fmall inconfiderable town, two hundred and ten miles from London, fituated on 8fie great Roman caufeway ; which, between this did Caftleford-briuge, appears as intire as at its firft making,' though-ncai one thou fand fix hundred pears a:ro ; under the town runs the river Cock, and near it is {till to be feen the fuun* dation of an old caftle, called by the inhabitants Caftle Cary. This town is famous for nothing but a manu- facture of pins. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and four an- nual fairs, viz. the laft Wednefday in April, the laft Wednefday in May, the laft Wednefday in October, and the Wednefday after October the eighteenth, for horfes, black cattle and fheep. At Hedley, north of Abcrforth, Ypolitus de Bram, in the reign of king Henry I. founded a priory of Bene- dictine monks, a cell to the monaftery of the trinity at York. From Aberforth we continued our journey to Tad- caftcr, advantageoufly fituated for the reception of tra- vellers on the fouth fide of the river Wherfe, where the road from Chefter, and that from Cambridge to York meet. It is an ancient town, one hundred and eighty-two miles from London ; and is generally fup- pofed to be the Calcaria of the Romans ; feveral Ro- man coins have been dug up here, the marks of a trench are ftill viable round the town, and here is the plat- form of an old caftle, or fort, out of the ruins of which, about one hundred and forty years ago, a fine ftone bridge was rebuilt over the neighbouring river Wherfe. Some, however, are of opinion that Newton Kyme, near Tadcafter, was the Roman Calcaria : it ftands upon the military way that runs through Holensford j and many Roman coins, urns, and other remains of Roman antiquity, have been dug up at this place. The name Calcaria is derived from the lime-ftone foil in this neighbourhood, which the Romans called Calx. Dr. Oglethorp, bifhop of Carlifle, who, for want of a proteftant archbifhop, fet the crown on the head of queen Elizabeth, but was afterwards deprived of his bifhoprick for adhering to popery, founded a free fchool, and hofpital here, dedicated to Jefus Chrift, called the fchool and hofpital of our Lord and Saviour Jefus Chrilt of Tadcafter, and endowed the fchool with forty pounds a year, and the hofpital, with revenues for twelve poor people, each to have one fhilling a week. In the civil wars this town was feiztd for the parliament, but abandoned again on the approach of a fuperior force. Here was a monaflery about the year 655, of which we have no particular account. \ This Y O R K S This town has a weekly market on Thurfday, but no annual fair. At Nun-Appleton, eaft of Tadcafter, Adelis, or Alice de St. QuintinO, about the end of the reign of king Stephen, founded a Ciftertian nunnery, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and St. John the Apoftle and Evan- gelift. Here was a ptjorefs and thirteen or fourteen nuns, who, at the time of the diilolution, were poiTelTed of re- venues to the amount of feven-three pounds, nine (hil- lings and ten-pence per annum. North of Tadcafter at a place called Hekgh-park, was an hermitage, which was converted to a monaftery of regular canons, dedicated to St. John the Evange- lift by Bertram Haget, before the year 1203. About the time of the diffolution, here were fourteen cannons, who had revenues to the value of feventy-two pounds, ten fhillings and feven-pence per annum. Leeds, the next town we vilited, is fo called by a variation of the word Loyder, generally fuppofed to have been derived from Lead, which fignifies a people or nation, and might pofliLly be applied to this place, from its having been populous in the time of the Saxons. Others however fuppofe the original derivation of the name Leeds to have come from the Britifh word Llwydd, a pleafant fituation. This town is fttuated on the north fide of the river Aire, over which it has a magnificent ftone-bridge ex- tending to the fuburbs, which are very large. It is a fpacious, wealthy, populous and flourishing town, one hundred and eighty one miles from London, and was incorporated by king Charles I. under a chief alder- man, nine burgefles, and twenty affiftants ; but at pre- fent it is governed under a charter of king Charles II, by a mayor, twelve aldermen, and twenty-four affiftants. Here are three churches, one of which only, dedicated to St. Peter, is parochial ; this is a fpacious, ftrong, ve- nerable and very ancient pile, built in the form of a cathedral, with a tower rifing from the middle with «i<»ht beils in it ; the walls are of free ftone, and the roof, which is almoit entirely covered with lead, fun- j ported by three rows of fulid Gothic pillars. In the in- lide, the ceiling is adorned with fine painting, the fub- ject of which is the delivering of the law to Mofe?, beautifully executed in frefco by Parmentiere, who vo- luntarily gave this fpecimen of his art, in gratitude for the encouragement he had met with here, The other church, called St. John's, was built in the year 1634, at the charge of John Harrifon, Efq. a native of this town, who likewife endowed it with eighty pounds a year, and ten pounds to keep it in repair ; and near it erected a houfe for the minifter. The third was built a few years ago; and is an elegant ftructure, with a fpire fteep'le, and dedicated to the Holy Trinity. In the year 1691, a prefbyterian meeting-houfc was built here, which is called the New Chapel. In the town and fuburbs are feveral others ; but this is allowed to be the belt meet- ing-houfe in the north of England. Here is a free- fchool built by Mr. Harrifon above-mentioned, to which Mr. Lawfon, mayor of the town, in 1669, added a library. The fame benevolent gentleman, Mr. Har- rifon, likewife founded an hofpital here for the relief of fuch poor perfons who bore the character of having been honeft and induftrious ; and endowed it with eighty pounds a year, befides ten pounds for a mafler to read prayers : he likewife erected a ftately market-crofs, and the ftreets called New-ftreet, the rents of which he appropriated to pious ufes. In the year 1699, alder- man Sykes of this town, built a woik-houfe of free- Ifone, where poi.r children are taugnt to mix wool, and perform other eafy parts of that manufacture ; and part of the fame building has been ufed many years as an hof- pital for aged poor. Here are befides three alms-houfes, built by Mr. Lancelot Ivefon, who was mayor of the town in the year 1695, and two charity-fchools, in which an hundred boys are taught, maintained and de- cently cloathed in blue. There is a houfe in this town, which, from being the firft brick building erected in it, is called Red-hall. It was built by Mr. Metcal:, an alderman of Leeds, and in it king Charles I. had an apartment, (till known by the name of the King's Cham- ! H I R E. 123 bcr. At the weft end of the town formerly ftood a caftle, wherein king Richard II. was imprifoned before he was conveyed to Pontefract. This caftle was befteged by king Stephen on his march into Scotland, but when, it was demolifhed does not appear. There was alfo a park, of which the name is ftill kept up, though it has been long fince turned into inclofures. Here are two magnificent halls, both built about the year 1714; one for white cloths, fupportcd by pillars and arches, which form a quadrangle like the Royal Exchange, with an handfome cupola, and a bell on tho top, to give notice when the market for tbefe fort of goods begin, The other is the guild or moot hall, ths front of which is built likewife on arches, with rirtic coins and tabling ; where in a nich is placed a fine white marble ftatue of queen Anne, executed by Mr. Car- penter at the expence of alderman Mi'ner. Leeds has been long famous for the woolen manu-.- fact ure, which it3 merchants, and thofe of York, and Hull, fhip off for Holland, Hamburgh, and the north, The cloth market was formerly kept on the bridge; at which time there was a cuftom practifed by the inn- keepers, of giving the clothcrs a refreftinvrnt, which they called the bridge-end, or brig-fhot, and confuted of a pot of good aK-, a noggin of pottage, and a tferic heE of. roait or boiled meat, which roft :\o ir.o c ' i pence. The trade being now ( f! idef bl ' f the market is kept in a long ftreet, cajled r! or Bridgate; where, every market (lay in the morning, numbers of treflels are ranged and covered with bbards, which form a temporaiy counter; and upon the ringing of the market bell, which is done at fix o'clock in the fummer, and feven in the winter, tli; clothiers, who are by this time afl'embled in the inns, bring out their cloth, When the bell ceafes, the chapmen enter the market, where they match their patterns, and treat for the cloth in as few words as pofiible, and thofe fpoken in a low voice; by which means all noife and difturbance is pre- vented, one dealer does not interrupt another, the I greateft good order and regularity is preferved, and twenty-thoufand pounds worth of cloth is frequently bought up in an hours time. If a merchant has bidden a clothier a price, and he will not take it, he may go after him to his houfe, and tell him he has confidered of it, and is willing to let him have the cloth ; but they are not to make any new agreement for it, as that would be removing the market from the ftreet, to the merchant's houfe. At half an hour after eight o'clock the bell rings a fecond time, upon which the clothiers and their chap- men retire with their trefiels, and make room for the linen-drapers, hard-ware-men, fhoe-makers, fruiterers, and. other trades : at the fame time the fhambles are well furnifhed with all forts of fifh and flefh, and five hundred horfe loads of apples have been bought up here in a day. This place trades not only in thefe com- modities, to York* Hull, and Wakefield, by the river Are, but likewife furnifhes the city of York with coals. The principal manufacture is of broad cloths, from one Hulling and eight pence to twelve fhillings a yard; but chiefly of four fhillings and fix-pence, or five fhil- lings. Good hands might earn at this branch half a guinea a week the whole year round, if fully employed; but as that is not at prefent the cafe, they do not get above eight {hillings. A boy of thirteen or fourteen years of age earns about four fhillings a week ; fome wo» men earn as much by weaving as the men. What they call offal work, which is the inferior branches, fuch a§ picking, rinting, &c. are paid one penny an hour. But befides this manufacture of broad cloth, there are fome fhalloons, and large quantities of ftuffs made at Leeds, particularly Scotch camblets, grograms, bur- dets, fome calimancoes, &c. The weavers earn from five to twelve fhillings a week ; boys of thirteen, or four- teen, five fhillings a week: but they cannot work in bad weather. Dreffcrs earn, from one to three fhillings. a day, but are not fully employed. The women by weaving ftuffs, earn three fhillings and fix-pence, or four fhillings a week. Wool-combers, from fix-fhil- lirigs to twelve fhillings a week. The (binning trade is conftan', YORKSHIRE. conftantj and the women earn about two (hillings and fix-pence, cr three {hillings a week ; girls of thirteen v i fourteen, one (hilling and eight pence a week : a boy of eight or nine, has two-pence half-penny a day ; and of fix years old, a penny. Leeds is famous for fome medicinal fprings ; one of which, called St. Peter's-well, is remarkable cold, and has proved very beneficial in rheumatifms, rickets, and other complaints ; and another, called Eyebright-well, has frequently been fcund ufeful in disorders of the eyes. Leeds has two weekly markets held on Tuefday and Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. July the tenth, for horfes and hardware ; and November the eighth, for cattle, horfes and hard-ware. At Temple-Newfom, fouth-eaft of Leeds, William de Villiers, in the reign of king Henry II. founded a preceptory of Knights Templars. In a wood called the wood of El met, not far from Leeds, there was a monaftery about the year 730 ; and to the eaft of this town, at a place called Widkirk, is a church, dedicated to St. Mary, in which William, earl of Warren, Ralph Lifle, and William, his fon, in the time "of Henry I. placed fome Black canons, who were fuborclinate to the priory of Neftle, and at the fuppreffion had revenues to the amount of forty- feven pounds and four- pence per annum. At Barn. Idfweek, not far from Settle, Henry de Lacy, in the year 11 47, placed a convent of Ciftertian monks from Fountain ; but this place proving inconve- nient for them, in five or fix years afterwards, they were removed to Kirkftal, north of Leeds, where, in the year 1 1 52, they erected a fine abbey, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed upon the diffolution with yearly revenues worth three hundred and twenty- nine pounds, two (hillings and eleven-pence. Having viewed Leeds, we continued our journey, and next arrived at Wakefield, a large, well-built, populous town, which, though no corporation, is laid to contain more inhabitants than the city of York. It is fituated on the river Calder, in a fruitful foil, one hundred and feventy-two miles from London ; and confifts of three grer.t ftreets, which meet in a center near the church, which is a very large and lofty gothic ftructure. The body of it was repaired in the year 1724, but the fpivc, which is one of the moft lofty in the county, re- mains in its original (late. This church is endowed, by lady Campdcn, with eighty pounds a year for a weekly lecture; and here is a charity fchool for fixty three children, fupported by the inhabitants, the boys of which have yearly, at Chriftmas, coats and caps. A fpacious market place mi^ht be erected here, where the three capital ftreets meet; but at prefent here is only a (mall area round the market crofs, which is a very ele- gant building, being an open colonade of the Doric order, fupported by a dome, to which you afcend by an epen ciicular flight of flairs, in the center of the build- ing, which brings you to a room that receives light from a turret on the top. This might with propriety be cal- led the town-hall, all bufinefs being tranfacted here. Here is a hand fome (tone bridge over the Calder, from which ycu have an agreeable view to the fouth-eaft, where, by the fide of the river, rifes a hill covered with wood, at about the diftance of a mile; this joins to an open moor or common, called Heath-moor, upon which are fevtral gentlemens feats very pleafantly fituated. Upon the bridge (lands a chapel, erected by king Edward IV. in memory of his father, Richard, duke of York, who was flair) near this place. This chapel is ten yards long, and fix broad, and though very much defaced by time, it appears to have been wrought in a very curious manner; it is now ufed as a warehoufe for goods. A little above the bridge is a wafli, or dam, over which the water rolling, forms a beautiful natural cafcade of a confiderable length. Wakefield has been long famous for that branch of the woollen manufacture which is called the dreffing trade. The cloths come to this town to be dyed, &c. and go through their laft hands. The men earn, from fix (hillings a week, in winter, to fourteen ; boys till 4 they are fourteen or fifteen, from one (hilling and fix- pence to two (hillings a week. Around the town are many collieries ; the men employed in them earn, from ten to twelve (hillings a week. This town has two weekly markets, held on Thurf- day and Friday; and four annual fairs, viz. July the fourth and fifth, a two day fair, the firft for horfes and hard-ware, and the laft for toys, &cc. November the eleventh and twelfth, a two day fair likewife, the firft: for horfes and black cattle, and the laft for toys, &c; If cither of thefe days fall on a Sunday, the fair is held on the Saturday before. In the neighbourhood of this town are annual horfe- races. In the year 1697, were found at Lingwell-gate, not far from Wakefield, certain moulds or impreffions upon clay, invented for the purpofe of counterfeiting the Ro- man coin. This place is fuppofed to have been origi- nally called Lingwell, from fome intrenchments called Vallum by the Romans, which might have been thrown up here by the Lingones, who are known to have been quartered at likely, near Skipton, which was the Olicana of the Romans, and not far from this place. Olicana was rebuilt by Virius Lupus, legate and pro- praetor of Britain, in the time of the emperor Severus, as appears by the following infeription upon a ftone dug up here: 1m. Severus Avg. Et Antinivs Ces. Destinatvs Restitvervnt, Cvrante Virio Lapo Leg. Eorvm. P. R. P. R. That the fecond cohort of the Ligones were quartered in this town, appears from an infeription on an alter found here, and dedicated by the captain of that band to Verbeia, fuppofed to be the goddefs of the river Wherfe. The infeription is as follows: Verbeiae SACRVM CLODIVS FRONTQ PRiES. CoH. II. LlNGON. Here is a church, in the well of which is a ftone, with an imperfect Roman infeription. In this church is a figure cut in done of Sir Adam Middleton, who lived in the reign of king Edward I. and in the church-yard, and in fome other part of the town, are Roman ftone pillars, fome of which have gravens and inferiptions. At Noftell, fouth-eaft of Vvakefield, were a church, and houfe of poor hermits, dedicated to St. James. And here Robert de Lacy, in the time of William Rufus, founded a monaftery, dedicated to St. Ofwald, in which were placed regular canons, of the order of St. Auftin, who had revenues valued upon the fuppreffion at four hundred and ninety two pounds, eighteen (hillings and two pence per annum. At Newland, near Wakefield, king John founded a preceptory of the Knights Hofpitalers of St: John of Jerufalem, which was valued upon the diflblution at two hundred and twenty three pounds, nineteen (hillings and feven pence per annum. Our next vifit was to Huthersfield, or Hotherfield, fituated on the bank of the river Calder, one hundred fixty-five miles from London. It is famous for a ma- nufacture of woollen cloth ; but contains nothing elfe • remarkable. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and an annual fair held May the twenty-fourth, for lean horned cattle and horfes. At Almondbury, near this town, are the ruins of a. Roman work, confifting of fome remains of a ftone caftle and ramparts, with a triple fortification, ftill vifible, and generally fuppofed to have been the Cambo- nanum of the Romans. About three miles from Huthersfield, at a place called Kirklees, is a funeral monument of the famous outlaw Robin Hood, who lived in the reign of king Richard I, with the following infeription : Here undernead dis (laid ftean Lais Robert, earl of Huntingtun. Nea aricr vcr ar hie fa geud, An piple kauld im Robin Heud. Sick utlawz hi an is men Vil England nivcr fi a ifling variation of its ancient name Halig- fax, which, in the old Englifti language, fignifies holy- hair ; it was originally called Horton, and its name is faid to have been changed to Halig-fax by the following incident. A fecular prieft of this village.heing violently enamoured of a young woman, his paffion at length deprived him of his reafon, and unfortunately meeting her in a retired place, he murdered her, horridly mangled her body, and cut oft* her head. The head being after- wards, for what reafon does not appear, hung up upon a yew tree, was foon regarded with a fuperftitious vene- ration, and frequently vifited in pilgrimage ; but at length rotting away, the devotion of the vulgar was transferred to the tree, and fo many branches were con- tinually torn off, and carried away as relicks, that it was in time reduced to a bare trunk. : this trunk fucceeded to the honours of the tree, as the tree had fucceeded to thofe of the head, and the devotees, who {till vifited it, conceived a notion, that the fmall fibres in the rind be- tween the body and bark of the tree, were in reality the very hairs of the young woman's head ; a miracle now became a new object of deyotion, and the refort of pil- grims was greater than ever ; fo that in a fliort time, from a fmall village rofe a confiderable town, and ac- quired the new name of Halig-fax. This town (tends near the river Calder, on the gen- tle delcent of a hill, one hundred and ninety miles from London. It is reckoned the moft populous, if not the larger! parifti in England j and fo long ago as the reign ef queen Elizabeth, was able to fend out twelve thou- fand men to join her forces againft the rebels, under the earl of Weftmoreland. Here is a {lately, venerable old church, in which are many extraordinary monuments, moft of them very ancient. Here are likewife twelve chapels, and, beiides thefe, fix teen meeting-houfes, moft of which have bells and burial grounds belonging to them. Heie is a good hofpital, founded and endowed in the year 1642, by Nathaniel Waterhoufe, Efq; for twelve old people ; and a work-houfe for twenty children, the overfeer whereof has a falary of forty-five pounds a year; and the fame gentleman left a falary to the preachers of the twelve chapelries. Mr. Crowther, a clothier, alfo left ten pounds a year for ever to the poor; and twenty pounds a year to the free-fchool here, called queen Elizabeth's fchool. The extraordinary induftry, fpirit and ingenuity of the inhabitants in the manufacture of cloth, particularly kerfeys and fhalloons, has rendered Halifax one of the moft flouriihing towns in England. It has been com- puted that one hundred thoufand pieces of fhalloon are made in a year in this town alone; and that one dealer has traded by commiffion for fixty-thoufand pounds per annum, to Holland and Hamburgh, iif the article of kerfeys alone. It is a general obfervation, that the inhabitants of Halifax are fo employed in the woollen manufacture, that they fcarce fow more corn than will keep their poultry j and that they feed very few oxen or Iheep. At the firft erecting of the woollen manufacture in thefe parts, which was in the reign of Henry VII. it was fo common a practice to fteal the cloths as they lay out all night upon tenters, that a bye-law, called the Halifax was made to prevent them. By this law the magiftrates of Halifax were impowered to pafs and exe- cute fentence of death on all fuch criminals as came W'thin either of thefe three cafes, fo as to make it furtum inanifejlum. Firft, Hand-habened, that is, when they were taken in the fact of ftealing. Secondly, Back-beroned, that is, when the cloth fto- len was found upon them. Thirdly, Confeffioned , that is, when they owned the fa&. The crime muft likewife have been committed, and the criminal apprehended, within the liberties of the foreft of Hardwick ; and the value of the things ftolen • \ 5 6 - exceed in value thirteen-pence half-penny. On fueh charge the perfon fufpected was carried before the bailifF of Halifax, who fummoned the Frithburghers of the fe- veral towns in the liberties of the foreft of Hardwick : by thefe he was either acquitted or convicted ; and if convicted was executed in the fpace of a week, by fevering his head from his body, in the manner follow- ing. Near the town was an engine, in the form of a very high gallows ; in the two perpendicular pofts were grooves, where a heavy piece of timber, with a {harp ax fixed in it, was made to flide up and down with great eafe, by means of a pully and a cord. On the day of execution, the convict was conveyed to the gal- lows, and his neck placed on a block directly under the ax, which was drawn up to the top of the gallows, and fixed by fattening one end of the rope on which it was fufpended to a pin in one of the perpendicular pofts. The pin being removed, upon a fignal for execution, fet the rope at liberty, upon which the ax fell down with great force and velocity, and cut off the criminal's head. This engine was ufed at Halifax till the year 1620, when it was removed ; but the bafis on which it ftood is to be feen here to this day. This law partly gave occafion to a common litany, or cant of the beggars and vagrants of thefe parts, where they frequently fay, " From Hell, Hull, and Halifax, Good Lord deliver us !" The reafon afcribed for Hull's being fo tremendous to beggars, is the rigid difcipline they meet with in that town, where all foreign poor are whipped out, and thofe belonging to the town are fet to work. This town is noted for having been the birth-place of John of Halifax, or de SacroBifco, the chief mathema- tician of the age in which he lived, who was buried at the public expence of the univerfity of Paris ; and like- wife of the celebrated Dr. John Tillotfon, archbifliop cf Canterbury. Halifax has a weekly market on Saturday, which is thronged by prodigious numbers of people who come to fell their manufactures, and purchafe provifions. It has alfo an annual fair, which is held on the twenty- fourth of June for horfes. In the year 1705, fome gallons of Roman copper coins was dug up at Clifton, a village on the fouth-eaft of Halifax, among which were fome of the emperor Quin- tillus, who reigned only feventeen days. And in a (tone quarry at St. Yeadon, fouth of Otley, was found in 1762, an urn of curious workmanfhip, filled with burnt bones and afties. At Staneland, near Halifax, feveral Roman coins have been dug up. In 1678, a very confiderable quantity of thefe coins was found at Sowerby, not far from Siane- Jand. At Gretland near Sowerby was found a votive altar, which rrom an infeription on it, feems ro have ; ;cen dedicated to the tutelar god of the capital of the Bri- gades. On one fide is DVI BRIG. ET NVM. GG. T. AVR. AVRELIANVS DD. PRO SE ET SVI& S.M.A. G.S. and on the other ANTONINO III. ET GET COSS. And at Ealand, eaft of Halifax; feveral bricks have been found inferibed COH. II 1 1 . BRE. Leaving Halifax we purfued our journey to BradfortH or Bradford, another town eminent for the woolen ma- nufacture, one hundred and eighty-three miles from London. It was garrifoned for the parliament in the civil war, but retaken for king Charles I. Here is a church in which a lecture was founded and endowed with forty pounds a year by Mr. Peter Sunderland. It has a weekly market on Thurfday, and three annual fairs, viz. March the fourteenth and fifteenth ; June the twenty-eighth, twenty-ninth, and thirtieth for black cattle and houfehold furniture ; and December the twentieth, twenty-firft, and twenty-fecond for hogs. Gifborn, the next place we vifited, Is fituated on the borders of Lancafliire, one hundred and eighty-nine miles from London: but contains nothing remarkable, except a weekly market on Monday, and feven annual fairs, viz. Eafter-Monday ; Monday fortnight after Eafter ; Monday month after Eafter j Saturday after K k Monday 126 Y O R K S H I RE. Monday month from Eafter, for horned cattle : Monday five weeks af'ier Eafter for pedlary ; and September the eighteenth and nineteenth for black cattle and pedlary. ■' There was indeed formerly a priory of Auguftine ca- nons founded in this town by Robert de Bruce, in the year 1129, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, with yearly revenues valued upon the diflblution at fix hun- dred and twenty-eight pounds, thirteen (hillings and four- pence. Leaving Gifborn we pafled on to Skipton, fituated in the midft of that mountainous trail called Craven, near the bank of the Are, two hundred and twenty-one miles from London. It is a pretty large well-built town, has a handlbme church and a grammar- fchool, to which and the church library, one Mr. Petit, who had been principal of Bernard's Inn, London, gave a valuable collection of books. Here is alfo a fchool in which church mufick is taught by the parifli clerk. One Robert Montgommery, a native of Scotland, who at the age of one hundted and twenty-fix years went about begging, lived many years in this town. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and ten annual fairs, viz. March twenty-three, for black cattle and fheep ; Palm-Sunday eve, for horfes ; Eafter- eve, for black cattle and fheep ; firft Tuefday after Eafter, fe- cond Tuefday after ditto, and third Tuefday after ditto, for horned cattle ; Whitlun-eve, for linen cloth and mercery ; Auguft the fifth, for horfes and cloth ; November the twentieth, for horned cattle; and No vember the twenty-fecond for horfi s, cloth and pediary. At Emmeley, near Skipton, William Miietunes, ■ rsd Cecelia de Romeli his wife, founded before the year 3120, a monaftery, for canons regular of the o.der of St. Auguftine, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. Cuthbert, but about thirty years after this foundation, the religious were tranflated by their daughter Alice de Romeli, to Bolton, in the neighbourhood of Gifborn, where they continued till the general diflblution, when their yearly revenues were rated at two hundred and twelve pounds, three {hillings and fourpence. At Selley, not far from Skipton, the third Wiiliam de Piercy, in the year 1 14.7, built a Ciftertian abbey, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. About the time of the general fuppreifion, was endowed with eftates to the amount of one hundred and forty-feven pounds, three fhillings and ten-pence per annum. At Bolton, near Skipton, was a houfe of Carmelite friars. We pafled f.om Skipton to Settle, a pretty town fituated in the road from York to Lancafter, two hund- red miles from London ; but has nothing remarkable except a weekly market on Thurfday, and feveral annual fairs, viz. Tuefday before Palm-Sunday ; Thurfday before Good-Friday ; and every other Friday till Whit-Sunday, for horned cattle ; April the twenty- fix, for fheep ; Auguft eighteen, a three day fair; and firft Tuefday after October twenty-feven, for black cattle, fheep, lambs, leather, wool, &c. About half a mile from Settle, at a village called Giglefwick, is one of the moft remarkable curiofities in this county. It is a reciprocating fpring, which fre- quently ebbs and flows three times in one hour, when the water finks and riles two feet. Ripponthe next town we flopped at, is an ancient bo- rough town, which formerly made three returns of mem- bers to parliament ; but loft that privilege, and was re- flored to it in the firft year of the reign of Queen Mary. It was incorporated by king James the firft, and is go- verned under a charter of James the fecond, by a mayor, twelve aldermen, twenty-four afliftants and other of- ficers. Before the conqueft, and fome time after it, this place was governed by elders, and a chief magiftrate called a wakeman, or watchman, from the great diligence re- quired of them while in their office. Rippon is a large, well built, pleafant, populous town, fix furlong? in length, and fituated between the river Ure and a fmali ftream called the Skcll, one hundred and ninety miles from London,. Over the Ure here are two it of St. Mary Magdalen, Th urit'an, who died -irt to ftone bridges, one of which confifts of thirteen or four- teen arches. Camden fays this town was indebted to religion for its greatnefs. It is certain here was a famous monaftery built by Wilfrid archbifhop of York, in the firft ages of chriftianity ; but this pious gift of the biftiop was de- ftroyed fome years after ; for the Danes invading York- shire, rifled and burnt it to the ground, together with the whole town of Rippon. It afterwards flourifhed again as a monaftery : but that with the reft of the reli- gious hou'es being fupprefled in the reign of king Henry V lii. the church only was preferv'ed, to which king Athtiftan granted the privileges of a farctuary, which he extended a mile round the church ; and who- ever broke thofe rights, were to forfeit both life ahdj eftate : fo that mi fhort, not fenly the chinch, -bur 'the: whole town, and a circle of two nfiles diameter, bet rtrrts a refuge frh 'zW'tVtii flad-tfi it, whete they -'lived' fecurey and out of the'reaeh" of all !'u*\ " 2 AiiiK^'k^^W^hStuSS^^ Was- ah hofpltat, thtJ-pur-t poles of which are very remarkable, and well worthy-' of imitation, even in the pre fent days of proteftar-t charity. The houfe was called the he" and was founded by ruchbii the year M30 : in it were rr.jint.nred two chaplains perform diviire fei vice 'and if &t:y Pegging clergyman, cr other diftreffed perlbta, happened as thev were travel- I: to &eij way, and came fo the above hofpital, e there relieved', and fupplied with food and a bed ; but for that night only, for in the morning they were obliged to depart ; and every perfon that came craving an alms on St. Mary Magdaien's day yearly, had each a loaf, value an halfpenny, when corn was at the price of five fhilling;' 5 per quarter, am! one herring. It is likewife rec -..<, that one wing of this hofpital was given to a fociety of religious fifters, to maintain a chapel to perform divine fervice, and to fupport ali the lepers born and bred in Hipfchire ; but the fifters being in time removed, a brotherhood was eftabliflied in their ftead, which continued for a-while ; and after that it became a mafterfhip, which remained till the time of the general diflblution, when their revenues were valued at twenty-feven pounds, five fhillings and fix-pence per annum. At this time the whole being demolished ex- cept the church, the revenues were feized by King Henry VIII. fo that nothing remained for the fupport of an officiating clergyman, till King James I. having the cafe reprefented to him by his queen, founded in the church a dean and feven prebendaries, befides petty canons, finging-men and chorifters ; and endowed it with revenues for their fupport. The dean of this church has no place in the convocation of the province of York, but the chapter fends a proctor to it. It is both parochial and collegiate ; and is a venerable Gothic building, firm, ftrong and plain ; there being no imagery of ftatues to be feen about it ; there are three fpire fteeples on it, which may be viewed at a great diftance; On one fide this ancient edifice ftands a fmall college for the finging-men, founded by one of the archbifliops of York. On the other fide is a great mount of earth, called Hillhaw, thrown up, it is faid, by the Danes; and in the church-yard lies a plain grave-ftone, over the remains of a generous benefactor, who gave two thou- fand pounds to pious ufes ; yet has no other epitaph than the following: Hie jacet Zacharias Jcpfon, cujus atas fuit 49,. Per paucas annos tantum vixit. Here lies Zachary Jepfon, whofe age was 49 years ; A very fhort period for fo worthy a perfon. In the times of popery this church was famous for a piece of prieftcraft pradWed in it, by which the canons got much money. In the church was a ftreight paflage which led to a clofe vaulted room ; this paflage was fo contrived that none could pafs through it but fuch as were favoured. The paflage was called St. Wilfrid's needle, and was ufed to prove the chaftity of any woman fufpected of incontinence. If (he bribed the prieft, fhe 4 pafled YORKSHIRE. 127 palled through it, and was reputed chafte; but if the prieft was not fatisfied fhe ftuck in the paflage. In the year 131 8 this town was plundered by the Scots, when many of the inhabitants retiring into the church, fo annoyed them, that after a flay of three days, they agreed for one thoufand marks to fpare the town from burning; which the inhabitants accordingly paid them and they departed ; but they returned again the following year, when becaufe the inhabitants could not raife the fame fum, they fired the town and church, and put many of the inhabitants to the fword. In 1322 a fynod was held here; and in the reign of Charles I. a treaty was made in this town, between his com- mifiioners and the Scots. I fhould have before obferved, that in the year 1660, the great fteeple of the church was blown down, which by its fall broke down the chancel, the only place where the people could aflemble for divine worfhip, and much fhattered the reft of the fabrick ; but the in- habitants, in the reign of king Charles II. obtained a brief for its repair. The market-place of Rippon, is efteemed the fined: fquare of the kind in England ; and is adorned with an obelifk, erected not many years ago, by John Aiflabie, Efq* This town formerly carried on a confiderable trade In the woollen manufacture; which it has now totally left : it is ftill however a ftaple for wool ; and is at prefent famous for a manufacture of the belt fpurs in England. . In the year 16-95 wa ' ^ ount ^ nere a confiderable num- ber of Saxon coins, particularly thofe brafs ones called fticea's, of which there were eight to a penny; and that they were the coin of a later race of the kings of Deira, or rather the Subreguli, after Egbert had reduced it to be part of his monarchy. Before the fourth year of the reign of king John, here was an hofpital, built by one of the archbifhops of York, and dedicated to St. John the Baptift. At the time of the fuppreffion, it had yearly revenues to the amount of ten pound fourteen fhillings and four-pence. Rippon fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Thurfday ; and feven annual fairs, viz. Thurfday after January the twenty fourth, Thurf- day after March the twenty firft, for horfes, black cattle and leather. May the twelfth and thirteenth, for horfes and fheep. Firft Thurfday in June, for black cattle, horfes, fheep and leather. Holy Thurf- day, firft Thurfday after Auguft the twenty fecond, and November the twenty- fecond, for horfes and fheep. In the neighbourhood of this town, are two famrus feats belonging to Mr. Aiflabie, one called Studley, and the other Hackfall. Studley Park is fituated in the midft of an agreeable ■country, about four miles from Rippon. The houfe is a very good one, and contains feveral fpacious apart- ments well fitted up. But the pleafure-grounds are chiefly confidered. The firft object we were fhewn to, is the banqueting- houfe ; a handfome apartment, containing a well-pro- portioned room for dining, and a fleeping one with a fofa within a fcreen of very light elegant carving. In the former is a ftatue of Venus of Medicis. At one corner of the lawn, in front of this building, {lands an Ionic dome temple in ruins, from which the views are various and pleafing ; there are two of water, partly furrounded with wood ; another up to a Gotfrc tower, upon a fine rifing ground ; a fourth down upon a bafon of water, with a portico on the banks ; befides others. Advancing up the hill to the right, we came to a bench which looked down upon a double cafcade, one falling to appearance from out of a cavern of rock, in a juft tafte, into a canal, which forms a litth beneath you another fall, and then is loft, to the left, behind woodj Winding, yet further to the right, and eroding a woody vale, we. mounted a little hill, with a tent on the fummit, in a very picturefque and agreeable fitua- tion ; for you look down on a fine winding lake, which £ •* and afterwards to them, by the name of the gover- " nors, or keepers, and burgefles of Beverley, an " exemption of all manner of impofts, toll, tallage, " ftallage, tunnage, laftage, pickage, wharfage, and " of and from all and every the like exactions,, pay- " ments, and duties, throughout and in all places what- " foever, by fea and land, within all their dominions of " England and Wales. Which* faid grants were con- " firmed by all or moft of the fucceeding kings and " queens, to the time of queen Elizabeth, who confirm- " ed the fame to them by the name of the mayor, go- " vernors, and burgefles, of Beverley, with feveral " grants, which have been alfo confirmed by all or moft " of the kings and queens of this realm, till this time; ** as by many and fundry charte-s, under their great " feals, more at large may appear. Thefe are therefore " to certify, that CD. is a burgefs of the faid town of " Beverley, and is therefore difcharged of and from all " and every the faid exactions, payments, and duties. " In teftimony whereof the faid mayor hath hereunto " fubferibed his name, and caufed the common-feal of « the faid town, ufed in this behalf, to be affixed, this " day, 6cc. By thefe, and the like privileges, the town keeps up its flourilhing condition, notwithftanding it is within fix miles of fo powerful a rival as Hull. It has all the ad- vantages, indeed, of a good fituation, to invite gen- tlemen to refide in it; and, being the neareft town of note to the centre of this riding, the feflions are alwayt held here, in a fpacious and beautiful hall, which has a public garden and walks, not inferior to any of their kind in England. In this Hall-garth, as it is called, is an. handfome regifter -office for deeds and wills within this divifion ; which is the only county in England, befides Middlefex, which has fuch a regiftry ; to the great reproach of the nation be it faid, efpecially when it fhall be remembered, that no lets than two bills (one for a regiftry for the county of Surry, and another, after that, for a general regiftry over the whole kingdom) were reflectively oppofed, and mifcarried very lately in parliament. The market-place is as large as moft, having a beau- tiful crofs, fupported by eight free-ftone columns, of one Yorkshire. 141 one intire ftone each, erected at the charge of Sir Charles Hotham, and Sir Michael Wharton; upon which was this infcription : H^c Sedes Lapidea Freed-Stoole dicitvr, i. e. Pacis cathedra; ad qvam revs fvgiendo PERVENIENS OMNIMODAM HABET SECVRtTATEM. That is: This ftonc feat is called Freed-Stoole, or chair of peace; to which if any criminal flee, he fhall have full protection. The common gaol has been lately re-edified at acon- fiderable expence, the windows well fafhed ; and, as if works of piety Were more peculiarly adapted to this place, there are feven alms-houfes in the town, and legacies left for two more ; befides a work-houfe, which has coft feven hundred pounds. It has a free-fchool, to the fcholars of which are appropriated two fellowfhips at St. John's College in Cambridge, and nine exhi- bitions. Here were formerly four churches, now only two, but the largeft and fineft parochial ones in the kingdom, viz. the late collegiate church of St. John the Evange- lift, ftill called the Minfter, and St. Mary's. The Minfter being very ruinous, Mr. Moyfer, then member of parliament for Beverley, in the year 1708, procured a brief for the repair of it; and, by his fole follicitation among his friends and acquaintance, raifed one thou- fand five hundred ; to which he and his family contri- buted very largely. This fum, with eight hundred pounds, the produce of the brief, being put out in the funds, was coniiderably augmented by the rife of South- Sea itock in the year 1720, which enabled him to com- plete his pious defign in a moft beautiful manner in his life-time ; as he had the fole management and direction both of the money, and of the application of it, being amfted by the advice of that noted architect Nicolas Hawkfmorc, Efq; king George I. encouraged this work, iiot only by a liberal donation of money, but ot ftone likewife, from the diflblved monaftery of St. Mary's, in York. Sir Michael Wharton gave in his life-time five hundred pounds, and by will, four thoufand pounds, as a perpetual fund towards keeping it in repair. The choir is paved with marble of four different colours, lozenge-wife, appearing cubical to the eye. Over the altar is a large and magnificent wooden arch curioufly engraven, ftanding upon eight fluted columns of the Corinthian order. The eaft window is of paint- ed glafs, collected out of the feveral windows about the church ; but fo artfully joined, that they make through- out one regular and intire figure. The fcreen between the choir and the nef has been lately rebuilt of Roch- abbey ftone, in the Gothic ftile, and i6 defervedly efteem- ed one of the chief ornaments of the church. The body of the church is paved with the faid ftone, intermixed with black marble. The pulpit, reading-defk, and cover of the font, are all new, and of excellent workmanfhip : -the galleries alfo are new, and beautifully finifhed, fup- ported by columns of the Doric order. But not the leaft furprifing thing in this pile, is the north end wall of the great crofs ifle, which hung over four feet ; but was fcrewed up to its proper perpendicular by the inge- nious contrivance of Mr. Thornton of York, joiner, made practicable by a gentleman of Beverley, now liv- ing, and approved of by Mr. Hawkfmore. The ad- mirable machine for this purpofe was engraved by M. Fourdrinicr, and printed for the benefit of his widow in the year 1739. On the 13th of September, Anno 1664, upon open- ing a grave, they met with a vault of fquare free-ftone fifteen feet long, and two feet broad : within it was a fheet of lead four feet long, and in that the afhes, and fix beads (whereof three crumbled to duft with a touch ; of the three remaining, two were fuppofed to be Cor- nelian) with three great brafs pins, and four large iron nails- Upon the fheet lay a leaden plate, with this in- fcription, in capital letters ; 73 Anno ab Incarnatiohe Domini MCLXXXVIII. combujla fuit hae Ecclefia in tnenfe Septembri^ in fequenti node poji fejlum Sancli Matthai apoftoli. Et in anna MCXCVII. fexto idus Martii, fa SI a fuit inquifitio re- liquiarum Beati foannis in hoc loco : et inventa funt hac ojfa in orientali parte fepulcri^ et hie recondita ; et pulvis cemento mixtus ibidem inventus ejl^ et recon- ditus. Thus tranflated : In the year of our Lord's Incarnation 1188, in Sep- tember, the night after the feftival of St. Matthew the apoftle, this church was confumed by fire ; and in the year 11 97, on the 10th of March, fearch was made for the reliques of St. John in this place ; and thefe bones were found in the eaftern part of the Sepulcre, and here again depofited ; a mixture of duft and morter was alfo found in the fame place, and again depofited. Over this lay a box of lead about feven inches long, fix broad, and five deep, wherein were feveral pieces of bones mixed with a little duft, and yielding a fweet fmell. All thefe things were carefully re-interred in the middle ifle of the body of the Minfter, with this infcrip- tion added, in capital letters : Rtliqua eadem ejfoffa, et ibidem compoftse, fornice late- ritio dignabantur xxvi. die menfis Martii Anno Domini mdccxxvi. quando, v. tejfellatum Ecclefia hujus pavimentum prima fuit injlauratum. Thus Englifjcd : The fame reliques which were dug up, and re-placed, were adorned with an arch of brick-work, on the twenty-fixth day of March 1726, viz. when the tefllllated pavement of this church was firft re- paired. Over it, directly upon the roof, is an infcription, to fhew where the reliques are interred. In this church are feveral monuments of the Piercies, earls of Northumberland, who have added a little chapel to the choir. On the right fide of the altar-place ftands the freed-ftool, mentioned above, made of one intire ftone, and faid to have been removed from Dunbar^ in Scotland, with a well of water behind it. At the upper end of the body of the church, next the choir, hangs an antient table with the picture of St. John the Evangelift (from whom the church is named), ami of king Athelftan, the founder of it, and between them this diftich : Als free make I thee, As heart can wifh, or egh can fee. In the body of the church ftands an antient monu- ment, which they call the Virgins Tomb ; becaufe two Virgin Sifters lay buried there, who gave the town a piece of land, into which any freeman may put three milch kine from Lady-day to Michaelmas. At the lower end of the body of the churchy ftands a fair krge font of aget-ftone. The mayor and aldermen being truftees for the re- venues granted for the fupport of the fabric by king Edward VI. and queen Elizabeth, the greateft part of them was applied towards defraying the expences of the parifti, and of the corporation ; fo that not a fourth part of the income was laid out in the repair of the Minfter; which occafioned its running to decay. This mifappli- cation Mr. Moyfer put a flop to ; and now the whole revenue, raifed by him from one hundred and fifty pounds, to two hundred pounds per annum y is applied folely to the repair of the fabric. Here was formerly a cloth manufacture ; but at pre- fent the principal manufactures of this town are malt, tanned leather, and bone-lace, in which it more par- ticularly carries on a confiderable trade ; and by which the poor people chiefly fupport themfelves. This manu- facture has of late met with confiderable encouragement, O o and ¥ O R K S HIRE. find the children of the charity fchool are all taught to Work at it. John, Archbilhop of York, afterwards called St. John of Beverly, is faid to have founded a convent of monks in the choir of St. John's church, in this town, which he dedicated to St. John the Baptift ; likewife a college of feven fecular canons, with feven clerks, in the nave of the church which he dedicated to St. John the Evangel ift; and in a chapel dedicated to St. Martin, adjoining to this church he founded a fociety of religious virgins, or nuns; but about one hundred and fixty years afterwards, the religious here were murdered, and the church, and building plundered and burnt by the Danes. The church, however, was afterwards repaired, and endowed with revenues by king Athclftan, for feven ca- nons, and was a flourilhing collegiate fociety at the time of the diflolution. Here was an hofpital, founded, as is that, before the Conqueft by one Wulfe, and dedicated to St. Giles. The income of this hofpital was valued, upon the dif- lolution, at eight pounds per annum. Sibylla de Valoniis, in the year j2oi, founded here a preceptory of the order of the Knights Hofpitalers of St. John of Jerufalem ; and endowed it, at the fuppref- fion, with one hundred and fixty-four pounds, ten fhil- lings per annum. In this town was likewife an hofpital of Black friars, before the year 1286. It was dedicated to St. Nicholas, and had yearly revenues at the fuppreffion valued only at five pounds, fourteen millings and fix-pence. Before the year 1300, here was a houfe of Francif- ' can friars ; and likewife a houfe of Black friars, as early as the year 131 1. Here were two or three more hofpitals, concerning which there are few particulars upon record. Beverley fends two members to parliament, has two weekly markets held Wednefday and Saturday, and four annual fairs, viz. Thurfday before Valentine, Fe- bruary the fourteenth, Holy Thurfday, July the fifth, and November the fifth, for horfes fheep and beafts. At Watton, north of this town, there was a nun- nery, about the year 686. Afterwards, about the year 1 1 50, Euftace, the fon of John Euftace, founded here a houfe of nuns of the order of St. 'Sempringham, dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary, and rated, upon the fup- preffion, at three hundred and fixty pounds, iixteen ihillings and ten-pence per annum. At Meaux, near Beverly, William le Grofs, earl of Albemarle, in the year 11 50, founded a Ciftertian abbey dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in which were fifty monks, at the time of the general fuppreffion, and en- dowed with annual revenues to the amount of two hundred and ninety-nine pounds, fix {hillings and four pence per annum. At Killingwald-grove, near Beverly, was an hofpital chiefly for women, before the year 1169. It was de- dicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and valued, upon the diflolution, at thirteen pounds, eleven millings and two pence per annum. About a mile eaft of Beverley is a fpaw, which is faid to be of great fervice in the care of icorbutic and other cutaneous diforders. Headon, the next town we vifited, is likewife called Hedon, or Heydon. It is a [fmall borough town, well built, and pleafantly fituated on a fmall ftream near the Humber, one hundred and feventy-two miles from Lon- don; and governed by a mayor, a recorder, nine alder- men, and two bailiffs, who have the power of fheriffs, and juftices of the peace. Here is a prifon, and formerly there were three churches ; but they are now reduced to one. This town was once of confiderable note for its mer- chants and (hipping ; but its harbour has been many years choaked up by the actuary of the Humber. In the church are the pictures of a king and a bifhop, with an inlcription little differing from that at Be- verly. Alls free make I thee, As heart may think, or eigh fee. About the beginning of the reign of king John, Alan the Ion of Oubern, founded an hofpital here, dedicated to the Holy Sepulchre, for a rnafter, and fe- veral brethren or filters, lepers; which was valued, upon the fuppreffion, at thirteen pounds, fifteen ihil- lings and ten pence per annum. This town fends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Saturday, and fairs every fort- night, befides the fuur following, which are held an- nually, viz. February the fourteenth, Auguft the fe- cond, September the twenty-fifth, and November the feventeenth, for pewter, tin, leathern wares and milli- nary goods. At Swine, north of Headon, Robert de Verli, before the end of the reign of king Stephen, founded a reli- gious houfe, confilting of a priorefs, and fourteen or fifteen nuns, of the Ciftertian order. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed, upon the diflolution, with eighty-two pounds, three Ihillings and nine-pence, per annum. From Headon we proceeded to Patrington, a very ancient corporate town, ih a very pleafant fituation, near the mouth of the Humber, one hundred and feven- ty-one miles from London. It was the Prsetorium of Antoninus, and here the Roman way from the Picls wall terminates. It has nothing at prefent, except a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. March the twenty-eighth, and July the eighteenth, for toys. A little to the fouth of this town, is Spurnhead, a famous promontary, called by Ptolemy, Promonto, sum Ocellum. The weftern fide of this head-land is full of villages, but the other has nothing remarkable. At Burftalgarth, fouth-eaft of Portington, Stephen, earl of Albemarle, founded in the year J 115, a priory of Benedictine monks, which was a cell to the mo- naftery of Alceio, near Albermaile, in Normandy. At Newton, near Partington, William Grofs, earl of Albermarle, who died in 1/99, founded an hofpital, and dedicated it to St. Mary Magdalen. At the fup- preffion its annual revenues amounted to forty pounds. At Withernfey, north-eaft of Partington, was a priory fubordinate to the abbey of Albemarle, in France, fo early as the reign of king John. Leaving Partington we continued our tour to Horn- fey, a fmall town almoft furrounded by a final 1 arm of the German ocean. Here is a church with a high fteeple, which is a common and ufeful fea mark; and not many years ago, a ftreet, called Hornfey-hec, was entirely wafhed away by the fea, except two or three houfes. It has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. Auguft the twelfth, and December the feventeenth, for horfes and black cattle. At Nunckling, near Hornfey, Agnes de Arches, founded, in the time of king Stephen, a priory for Benedictine nuns, and dedicated it to St. Mary Mag- dalen, and St. Helen. It continued till the diflolution, when it was valued at thirty-five pounds, fifteen ihil- lings and five-pence per annum. From Hornfey we crofled the county to Wighton, fuppofed to have been the Delgovitia of the Romans. It ftands near the river Foulnefs, one hundred and eighty miles from London ; but has now nothing remarkable, except a weekly market on Wednefday, and two an- nual fairs, viz. May the fourteenth, and September the twenty-fifth, for horfes and ftieep. Pocklington, the next town we vifited, is fituated on a fmall ftream, which, a little below the town, falls into the Derwent, one hundred and eighty-three miles from London. It has nothing remarkable except a weekly market on Saturday, and feven annual fairs, viz. February the twenty-fourth, April the twenty-fifth, July the twenty-fourth, and October the twenty-eighth, for cattle, cheefe, cloth, and leathern ware; in feven days before St. Matthias, December the feventh, and feven days before Chriftmas day, for horfes, &c. At Tockwith, near Pocklington, Jeffrey Fitz-Pain, about the year 1 114, founded a priory fubordinate to the monaftery of Nofhell. It continued till the gene- ral fupprelfi, n of religious houfes, when it was valued at eight pounds per annum. At Wilberfofs, on the weft: of Pocklington, was a Be- lied i&ine YORKSHIRE. 143 nedicYine nunnery, faid to have been founded by Alan de Cotton, before the year 1153. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and about the time o-f the diflblution had a priorefs and 12 nuns, whofe yearly revenues amounted to twenty-one pounds fixteen {hillings and ten-pence. At Burnholm, eaff. of Pocklington, was a Benedictine nunnery, in which not long before the diflblution, were eight religious, whofe yearly income was valued at eight pounds one (hilling and eleven pence. From Pocklington we pafled to Kilham, fituated in the York moulds, one hundred and ninety-eight miles from London. It is about four furlongs in length, and is fituated in a country very fertile in corn. Here is a weekly market on thurfday, and two annual fairs, viz. Augult twenty-firft, and November twelfth for horfes and black cattle. At Lowthorp, near Kilham, v/as a collegiate body, or large charity, confiding of a rector, fix chaplains, and thr-.e clerks, founded in the church of this place in the beginning of the reign of Edward III. Bridlington, or Burlington, the next place we vifited, is fituated on a bay or creek of the German ocean, rec- | koned a fafe harbour ft ftorms at north-weft and north- eaft, two hundred and five miles from London. Brid- lington is about five furlongs in length, and has a great trade, and a key, which lies near two miles from the town, r.nd is chiefly inhabited by fea-faring people. Bridlington bay was the Eulimenora GabraMovico- rum, mentioned by Ptolemy, which fignifies the good port or hai bour of the Gabrantovici, an ancient tribe of Bri- tons, who inhabited thefe ports. William de Grant, in the reign of king Henry I. founded here a priory of Black canons, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and ' endowed at the diflblution, with yearly revenues amounting to five thoufand four hun- dred and feven pounds fix (hillings and eleven pence. This town has a weekly market on Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. Monday before Whitfuntide, and October the twenty-firft, for linen cloth and toys. At Boynton, not far- from Bridlington, Sir George Strickland has eftablifhed a woollen manufacture. In this part of the country, the poor have no other employ- ment than what refults from a nioft imperfect agricul- ture ; confequently three-fourths of the women and children were without employment. It was this in- duced Sir George to found a building large enough to contain on one fide a row of looms of different forts, and on the other a large fpace for women and children to fpin. The undertaking was once carried fo far as to employ one hundred and fifty hands, who made very fufEcient earnings for their maintenance ; but the decay of the woollen exportation reduced them fo much, that now thofe employed, are under a dozen. The\ N O R T H-R I DING. This riding is the northern boundary of the other two ; and the air here is colder and purer than in either of them : the eaftern part of this Riding, towards the ocean, is called Blackmoon, and confifts of a hilly, rocky, woody country ; and the north-weft part called Rich- mondftiire, from Richmond a borough town, the capital of the diftrict, confifts of one continued eminence, or ridge of rocks, and vaft mountains, the fides of which yield good grafs, and, the vallies at the bottom are very fruitful; the hills feed deer of a very large . fize, and likewife goats ; and contains mines of lead, copper, alum ftone and coal, but the coal and alum mines only are wrought. Swale- dale abounds with fine pafture; and Wentefdale, watered by the Ure, is a rich fruitful valley, abounding with wood, and flocked with vaft herds of cattle. Towards the fea coaft are found great quantities of jet ; and at Eggleftone, north-weft of Rich- mond, there is a fine quarry of marble. The fea near this coaft fwarms with herring, in the herring feafon ; and 'large turbots and great variety of other fifti are caught here ; the rivers abound, with all forts of frejflj? water fifh, and the Ure is remarkable for cray fifh. I Remarks on the Husbandry of the North-Riding. The hufbandry, like the foil of this Riding is very different in different diflricts. About Nunnington the foil is chiefly limcftonc land ; the open fields let at, from two (hillings and fix pence to four (hillings, and the inclofures from feven to ten (hillings. Farms are from thirty to ninety pounds a year. Their courfe is, 1. Fallow 2. Wheat 3. Barley 4. Fallow 5. Rye 6. Oats, They plough four times for wheat, fow ten pecks, and reap, on an average, fixteen bufliels. For barley after a fallow, they plough four times, but when an after-crop but twice, fow ten pecks ; the mean crop, three quarters. They give but one ftirring for oats, fow four bufhels, and gain about thirty. They fow but few beans, their method is to plough once, fow five or fix bufliels broad-caft, never hoe them, the crop three quarters ; ufe them for hogs and horfes. Foe peafe they plough but once, fow ten pecks, never hoe : the average produces fifteen or fixteen buftiels. They give four ploughings for rye, fow fix or feven pecks, and reap about three and a half quarters. As to turnips they cultivate fo few, that no general account can be given of them. Clover they fow with barley, 1 and mow the firft crop ; of which they get about two tons of hay : Wheat (ucceeds it. Their manuring confifls chiefly of the duns; arifing from their farm-yard, but they never litter it with cbopt flubble, holding it, like their neighbours of -Newton, better to leave on the land than convert into manure. They carry their dung directly from the yard on to the land without laying in heaps.' Of lime, they ufe- hrrgfe quantities, lay three chaldrons (at feven Shillings each) per acre on their fallows, in June or July, every third year. It does much good on limefione land, but more I on clay. Good grafs lets at ten (hillings ah acre; they ufe it chiefly for dairying and breeding ; a cow requires two acres for her fummer food"; and yields about five pound ■per annum product. In the height of the feafon a good one will give as high as eight ! gallons a day, btrt four or five in the common quantity. Three, do not '.more than maintain one hog. Their winter food is ftraw and hay : Their calves they fuffer to fuck but a week, if to be reared ; but fix weeks- to fat. They reckon. that a woman and a girl can take 'fare of a dairy of twenty cows. If the cows are tied'up in the houfe all winter, they eat three loads of hay - but' abroad two loads will ferve them. The wintering price is from thirty, to thirty-five (hillings; That of fummer, the fame. 1 he fize of their flocks of fheep is from twenty to eighty ; the profit from feven (hillings', to ten (hillings, a head. The winter keeping, two (hillings and two (hillings and threepence. They would be ready to give ninep'ence a week, per headj through the month of ApriL The average weight of wool /^r (heep, five pounds weight. In their tillage^ thay reckon fix horfes neceflary to fifty acres of arable land : They ufe four horfes and two oxen in a plough, and do an acre a day. The former they calculate, coft them four pound five (hillings per annum each at an average. 1 The joift in fummer isTrprri twenty-five (hillings, to thirty (hillings. ' In winter, one (hilling a week. Their oxen they keep in winter on ftraw and work them on it, but if hard, give them hav. Horfes they reckon do the work beft, but it is cheape'ft done with oxen. The price per acre of ploughing is, four (hillings and fixpence. They reckon that four years rent is neceflary to hiic a farm of half grafs and half arable.. Price ofLABOUR. In harveft, is. a day and boatd. In hay time, ditto. In winter, 6d, and ditto. Mowing YORK SHIRE. Mowing grafs, 2 s. Thrafhing wheat, i s. or i s. 2 d. a quarter. Head-man's wages, x 1 /. to 14/. A ploughman's 5/. 10 J. A ooy of 10 or 12 years of age, 3 /. or 4/. A dairy maid, 4 /. or 5 /. Other maids, 3/. or 4/. Women per day, in harveft, 9 d. In hay-time, 6 d. • In winter, 2 d. and board. About Gifborough, land lets from eleven to fifteen /hillings, per acre ; farms are from twenty, to fixty pounds ; but fuch as Mr. Turner has regulated, from eighty, to one hundred and twenty pounds. Their courfes are, 1 . Fallow 2. Wheat 3. Oats. Another, X; Fallow 2. Wheat 1. Peafe or beans. Or, 1. Fallow 2. Barley 3. Oats. They plough five times for wheat, fow two bufhels, and reap upon an average twenty-five. For barley they ftir fix or feven times, fow two bufhels or ten pecks, and gain five quarters. They give but one ploughing for oats, fow four bufhels, and gain on an average five quarters. For peafe and beans, they ftir but once, fow from four to five bufhels, broad-caft, never hoe ; the crop about thirty bufhels. Ufe them only for horfes. They cultivate very few turnips, plough three or four times, never hoe. The value from two, to four pounds ; they are fed off with fheep. They fow a little rape, plough but once after paring and burning; fow about half a peck, and gain about half a laft. They then lime the rape ftuble, and fbw wheat. They know no- thing of clover. As to manure, their ideas are but imperfect : all they know of farm-yard dung, confifts in the feeding their cattle with ftraw ; for their hay, they ftack about the fields, and never chop their ftubbles. They lime every fallow, with about a chaldron and a half per acre; coft and leading twelve fhillings a chaldron. Their method of breaking up grafs lands, is by pa- ring and burning ; the paring cofts twelve fhillings, and the burning eight fhillings. , They have tried fea fand in fmall quantities upon clay : it anfwers well, but is expenfive. Sea-weed they fometimes ufe ; they either lay it oh the land as they collect it; or make heaps of it till rotten ; but in general they reckon it beft frefh. Very good grafs lets for twenty-five fhillings an acre; apply it chiefly to dairying, and reckon that one- acre is fufficient to carry a cow through fummer, but of the common grafs at twelve fhillings an acre, two are ne- ceiTary. In feeding, they reckon five fheep equal to a cow. Their yard dung they are generally obliged to lay on to their grafs lands. A milch cow, they reckon re- quires more grafs than a beaft of the fame weight. The product of their cows is five pounds per head ; they give in the prime of the feafon ten, eleven, or twelve quarts of milk at a meal, or about five gallons a day. In fatting, they reckon a beaft of fifty ftone, will yield five pounds profit, and by breeding cattle, from two to three pounds per head. In winter they feed their cews on ftraw while dry, but afterwards on hay. Their calves never fuck at all. The joift of a cow in fummer is from one pound, five fhillings, to one pound fifteen fhillings ; and in winter, three pounds. The wintering a fat ox, they reckon worth five pounds. The fize of their flocks of fheep is from twenty to Jixty ; the breed the Jarge Teefwater ; fat wethers have been fold at fifty-five pounds a fcore. The profit per head, they reckon from nine to thirteen fhillings. 3 The keeping through April, they value at one fhilling a head per week. The weight of wool, from fix to ten pounds weight. In the management of their tillage, they reckon ten horfes necefiary for the cultivation of one hun- dred acres of arable land. They ufe two or three in a plough, two double, but three at length ; a driver in the firft cafe, but none in the fecond ; and generally plough an acre a day. The expence per horfe per an- num, eight pounds. The joift in fummer, two pounds. The price of ploughing per acre, five fhillings. They know nothing of chopt ftraw for chaff. In general, they reckon from two to four rents necef- fary for flocking of farms. Land fells, old rents, up to fixty years purchafe, others at thirty-five. Tythes are in general gathered, but if compounded, wheat pays five fhillings, fpring corn three-fhillings, and grafs from one fhilling to three. Poor rates run, from fix-pence to two fhillings and fix-pence in the pound, real rents, no variation between real and fuppofed, Price of LABOUR. As to the price of labour, the variation between the times of peace and war amounts to one hundred per cent. for the prefs for failors makes all the boys in the country be cleared off for apprentices, and the whole by that means drained, infomuch that the work fome- times can fcarcely be done. Preffing is carried to fo in- famous a height, that many landmen have been taken out of their beds in the middle of the nijrht. In harveft, from is. to z s. 6 d. per day. In hay time, is. 6d. In winter 10^. Reaping, wheat per acre* 5 s. I fpring corn, 4*. . Mowing grafs, 1 s. 8 d. Repairing hedges and ditches, id. to 8 d. a rood. Threfhing wheat 3 d. a bufhel. barley, 1 d. \. • — oats, 1 d. beans, 2 d. Headman's wages, 12/. or 13 /. Second ditto, 10 /. Boy of ten or twelve, 3 /. Dairy maids, 5/. Other maids, 4 /. Women per day in harveft, from 10 d. to 2 s. • in hay time, 8 d. — 1 — i — in winter, 4 d. The chief manufactures of this Riding are cloths^ ftockings, and alum. Malton, the firft town we vifited on entering this Riding, is divided into two parts by the river Derwent, which are called old and new Malton. The old is the Camalodumum of the Romans, and was burnt by Thurftan, archbifhop of York, in King Stephen's caufe, againft Euftace the lord of it, who had betrayed ports of this country into the hands of the Scots ; but Euftace being afterwards received into favour, rebu'it it, fince which time it has always bore the name of New Maltonj It is diftant from London one hundred ninty-nine miles ; and is a borough by prefcription, governed by a bailiff". The two towns have a communication by means of a good ftone bridge over the river ; they meafure together about four furlongs in length and have three handforne parifh churches. Malton is a populous place, and being fituated in the road between York, Whitby and Scar- borough is well provided with good inns. Euftace Fitz-John, in 1150, built and endowed a priory of Gibbertre cannons at Old Malton dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed upon the fuppreflion, with one hundred and ninety-feven pounds nineteen fhillings and two pence per annum. Malton fends two members to parliament; has two weekly markets, held Tuefday and Saturday ; and four annual fairs, viz. Saturday before Palm-Sunday, for horfes and horned cattlej the day before Whit-Sunday, for 148 If O R K S H I K li t cliff ncareft the Spaw flood as before, but were rent and broken in many places, and forced forward to the fea. The ground, when funk, lay upon a level, and the cattle next morning were ftill feeding on it, the main land being as a wall on the weft, and fome part of the fide of the cliff as a wall to the eaft ; but the whole, to view, gave fuch a confufed profpecl:, as could hardly be defcribed. The rent of the top of the cliff aforefaid, from the main land, was two hundred and twenty-four yards. The rent continued from each end, down the fide of the cliff to the fands, was meafured on the fands from one end to the other, one hundred and fixty- eight yards ; viz. one hundred and forty-three fouth of the Staith and Spaw wells, and one hundred to the north of the Spaw. As the ground funk, the earth, or fand, on which the people ufed to walk under the cliff, rofe upwards out of its natural pofition, for above one hundred yards in length, on each fide of the Staith, north and fouth ; and was in fome places fix, and in others feven yards above its former level. The Spaw wells rofe with it ; but as foon as it began to rife, the water at the Spaw well ceafed running, and was gone. The ground thus rifen was twenty-fix yards broad ; the Staiih, which was computed at two thoufand four hundred and fixty-three tons, rofe intire and whole, twelve feet higher than its former pofition (but rent a little in the front), and was forced forwards towards the fea, twenty yards. The moft reafonable account then given for this phaenomenon, and the occafion of the deftruction of the Staith, and Spaw houfe, and the lofs for fome time of the Spaw fpring, is as follows : When this Staith, or wharf, was lately rebuilt (it being thrown down by the violence of the fea), the en- gineer for the building of the new pier at Scarborough, was defired to rebuild this Staith at the Spaw ; and, dig- ging a trench to lay the foundation thereof, with great difficulty clear'd it of water; and when he had done it, could, at feveral parts thereof, very eafily thruft his flick or cane up to the handle; from whence it is concluded, that all the earth under the Staith was of a porous, fpongy, fwampy nature, and was much the fame below the foundation of the Spaw houfe, and under the fides of the cliff, adjoining, as well north as fouth. The folid earth, finking on the top of the cliff", which was fo vaft a weight, as by computation to amount to two hundred fixty-one thoufand three hundred and fixty tons ; which prefiing gradually upon, and into the fwampy, boggy earth beneath it, of courfe raifed the earth and lands, and by this means effected the mifchief. Very fortunately however for the town, after diligent fearch, and clearing away the ruins, the Spaw was again recovered, and the water upon trial feemed to be more efficacious than before. Hugh de Balemere, in the time of Henry II. founded an hofpital here dedicated to St. Thomas the Martyr; and much about the fame time, here was another hof- pital founded by the burgefles of this town, and dedi- cated to St. Nicholas. Before the fourth year ,of king John, here was a cell of monks belonging to the abbot and convent of Cif- tertium in France. About the year 1240, here was a houfe of Grey- friars ; and a houfe of Black friars, before the year 1285. King Edward II. in the year 1319, founded here an houfe of Carmelite friars. Scarborough fends two members to parliament ; has two weekly markets on Thurfday and Saturday, and two annual fairs, viz. Holy-Thurfday, and November the twenty-fecond, for toys. At Flixton, fouth of this town, there was an hof- pital erected in the time of king Athelftan, by one Arehorn, a knight, for an alderman and fourteeen brothers and filters. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. Andrew. We came next to Pickering, a pretty large town, fituated on a hill among the wild mountains of Black- moor, two hundred and twenty-fix miles from London. 3 It belongs to the dutchy of Lancafter, and has a juris- diction over feveral neighbouring villages, with a court for all actions under 1 forty fhillings, arifing within the manor of Pickering. It was formerly fortified by a caffle, the ruins Of which are ftill to be feen. Here wss alfo once an hofpital, dedicated to St. Nicholas. This town has a weekly market on Monday, and two annual fairs, viz. Holy Rood-day, and September the fourteenth, for horned cattle, hoi fes and fheep. At Wickham, eaft of Pickering, Pain Fifz-Ofberr, or de Wickham, about the year 1153, built and en- dowed a priory of Ciftertian nuns, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. At the time of the dilTolution here were nine religious, endowed with yearly revenues valued at twenty-five pounds, feventeen fhillintis and fix-pence. At Little Maries, fouth-eaft of Pickerinp;, Roger de Clare, before the year 1163, founded a fmall nunnery for eight or nine nuns of the Benedictine order dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed on the general dif- folution, with twenty-one pOunds, fixteen fhillings and fix-pence per annum. From Pickering we proceeded to Kirkby-Morefide, originally called only Kirkby, the epithet Morefide, having been annexed to it, from its fituation on the fide of Black-mocr, in the Nor-th-Riding of this county,- and to diftinguifn it from many other towns in the north of England, called Kirkby. It is one hundred and ninety-eight miles from London, and is an obfeure place, containing nothing worthy of notice, except a weekly market on Wednefday, and two annual fairs, viz. Whitfun-Wednefday, for black cattle and hones ; and December the eighteenth, for fheep, linen, and woollen cloth. At Keldam, near Kirkby-Mcrefide, Robert Stu- teville, in the time of Henry I. founded a Ciftertian abbey, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed,- upon the diffolution, with yearly revenues to the amount of twenty-nine pounds, lix fhillings and one penny. From hence we continued our journey to Helmefley, a fmall inconfiderable town, of no note, one hundred and ninety-feven miles from London. The houfes how- ever are tolerably well built, and covered with flate. Here is a weekly market on Saturday, and four annual fairs, viz. May the nineteenth, July the fixteenth, October the fecond, and November the fixth, for horfes, black cattle, fheep, linnen and woollen-cloth. At Eaftnefs, a village near Helmefley, was found a ftone tomb full of bones, and on the top ftone was the following inscription : Titta* Pinta' Vixit' Ann' XXXVIII.' Et Val. Advtort' Vixit' Ann. XX.' Et Verialo' Vixit' Ann.' XV.' Val' Vindi- CIANVS CoNIVGIE' T; FlLIs' F. C. At River, near Helmefley, Walter Efpec, in the year 1131, founded an abbey of the Ciftertian order, de- dicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed at the diffo- lution with two hundred and feventy-eight pounds, ten fhillings and two-pence per annum. In the neighbourhood of Helmefley lies Duncombe- park, the feat of Duncombe, Efq. the place in this country by far the moft worthy the attention of the curious traveller. The houfe is a very good one, the collection of pictures truly capital, and the ornamented ground fome of the moft beautiful in England. Firft then to begin with the houfe. The hall is a well proportioned room of fixty feet by forty, furrounded by fourteen large Corinthian pillars of Ionic, and ornamented by feveral ftatues, &c. among which are, Jupiter. Mercury. Minerva. Mars. Venus. Diana, The faloon of eighty-feven feet by twenty-five, is a handfome room, thrown into three divifiens by fome pillars. Here are four ftatues, brought lately from Italy. ^ Apollo. Y O R K S P. Panini. Three of architecture, fine. Holbein. Queen Mary. The chimney-piece is of modern and antique mofaic. The flabs are of antique porphery ; and the cabinet very beautiful, of the fined pebbles, &c. &cc. In other rooms ; Canaletti. View of Venice. P. Panini. Ruins. Snyder s. Game and garden-fluff. Stag-hunting; fine. Holbein. Harry VIII. Thomas duke of Norfolk. Rembrandt. Venetian nobleman, very fine. Rubens. A head. Alfo Thomas, earl of Arundel. Very fine expreffion. Vanderveldt. Shipping. An Ecce Homo, exceeding fine. Vandyke. Tenth earl of Northumberland. Paul Veronefe. A Roman courtezan. Vandyke. King Charles. Sigifmunda; the Venetian fchool. The maufoleum in the park is a circular building, finishing in a dome, furrounded by a colonnade of Tuf- can pillars. Over the vault is an elegant circular dome- room, called a chapel, thirty feet diameter, by fixty- nine high. Eight Corinthian pillars fupport the cornice over which the dome rifes, moiaie'd in fquares, with a rofe in each. The ornaments in carving of the whole room light and pleafing. The floor is in different com- partments, inlaid with marble, and a la Greed with brafs. There is a very fine table of antique mofaic. The Ionic temple in another part of the park has four porticos. It is a handfome room, fitted up chiefly with marble. The cornices of the door-cafes are fup- ported by Ionic pillars of black and gold marble; and in the corners of the room are pilafters of the fame. In niches over the doors are bulls of Vefpafian, Fauftina, Trajan, and Sabina. The room finifhes in a dome, which is ornamented in white and gold ; the floor in compartments of differ- ent marbles, antiques, &c. very elegant ; but the win- dows are trifling and mean. Befides thefc, there are feveral other ornamental build- ings about the park, &c. but all in fo heavy and clumfy a ftile, as to be perfectly difgufting. Even the maufo- leum is far enough from being free from thefe objec- tions. It is not very light in itfelf, but the fteps up to the chapel, and the walls that furround it in the forti- fication ftile, are deteftable. The Ionic temple is a clufier of porticoes ; the bridge is heavy, and even ugly ; and the reft of them, except a fmall dome temple, with a ftatue of Venus in it, all terminate in trian- gular pyramidal forms, much in the ftile of being hewn out of a real rock. We fhould not, however, forget to remark, th.it the inn, although deficient enough in beauty, is an excellent one; the rooms and all the offices large and convenient. After viewing this beautiful feat, we continued our journey, and arrived next at Scarborough, which, by the Saxons was called Scarburg, from its fituation, a borough on a rock. It is a very ancient borough, two hundred and four miles from London; and governed by two bailiff;, a re- corder, common- council men, and other officers. This town is fituated on a high fteep rock, furrounded by the fea, except on the weft fide, where it is con- nected with the continent by a narrow flip of land. The houfes are ftrong and well built, oppoied in form of a half moon to the main ocean, and extending irregularly on the declining fide of the rock. This town, the fituation of which is romantic, was formerly defended by a ftrong caftle, founded by William le Grofs, in the time of king Stephen, and repaired and enlarged afterwards by king Henry II. but demoliflird in the late civil wars. The fummit of this hill con- tains no lefs than eighteen or twenty acres of meadow ground. Here is a commodious key, and the beft har- H I R E. J47 bour between Newcaftle and the Humber, for receiv- ing fhips in ftrefs of weather ; on which account the pier here is maintained at the public charge, by a duty upon coals from Newcaftle and Sunderland. The mariners of this town have erected an hofpital for the widows of poor feamen, which is maintained by a rate on the veflels of this port, and by deductions out of the feamens wages. This place has a good trade, and a giteat number of fhips, chiefly employed in carrying coals from New- caftle to London. Herrings are caught here in great plenty, from the middle of Auguft to November, with which this town fupplies the city of York, as if does alfo with cod, mackarel, turbot, and a variety of other fifh. But the ftate of this town muft be, in a great mea- fure, afcribed to the vaft number of people of all ranks^ that flock hither in the hot months to drink the waters of a medicinal fpring, which rifes at the foot of an ex- ceeding high cliff, about a quarter of a mile fouth of the town. It is in a fandy foil, near the level of the fpring tides, by which it is often overflowed. The water of this fpring is very tranfparent, and of a fky- colour ; it has a pleafarit acid tafte, an inky fmell, and is found to be impregnated with iron, vitri^, alurhj nitre, and fait. It is purgative and diuretic, and is re- commended for removing obftruefions, and for diforderi that proceed from too flow a motion of the blood 5 it attenuates grofs, fizy, and mucous humours ; and it fheaths, fweetens, and haftens the expulfion of all acrid, and other fharp humours : it is therefore found beneficial in the jaundice, in inflammations, or a fchirrus, in the fpleen, in hyfteric cafes, in a cachexy, in an incapient dropfy, in preventing apoplexies, palfies, and lethar- gies; in arthritic and rheumatic diforders ; in head-achs, afthmas, catarrhs, habitual cuftivenefs, and many other complaints. At the feafon of drinking the waters, here are affem- blies and balls, in the fame manner as at Bath and Tunbridge. The unfortunate and extraordinary affair that hap- pened in December 1737, whereby this famous fpaw had like to have been loft, deferves particular mention. The fituation of the fpaw, as we have before obferv- ed, lays fouth from the town, on the fands, and front- ing the fea to the eaft, under an high cliff on the back of it, weft ; the top' of the cliff being above the high- water level, fifty-four yards; and all about a quarter of a mile from the town. The ftaith or wharf adjoining to the fpaw-houfe, was a large body of ftone, bound by timbers, and was a fence againft the fea, for the fecurity of the houfe ; it was feventy-fix feet long, and fourteen feet high, and in weight, by computation, two thoufand four hundred and fixty-three tons. The houfe and buildings were upon a level with the ftaith ; at the north end of which, and near adjoining to it, upon a fmall rife above the level fands, and at the foot of the ftairs that lead up to the top of the faid ftaith, and to the houfe, were the Spaw wells. On Wednefday, December the twenty-eight, in the morning, a great crack was heard from the cellar of the Spaw houfe; and, upon fearch, the cellar was found rent; but, at the time, no farther notice was taken of it. The night following, another crack was heard ; and in the morning the inhabitants were furprifed to fee the ftrange pofture it flood in, and got feveral gentlemen to view it, who, being of opinion the houfe could not ftand long, advifed them to get out their goods ; but they ftill continued in it. On Thurfday following, between two and three in the afternoon, another crack was heard, and the top of the cliff behind it rent two hundred and twenty-four yards in length, and thirty- fix in breadth, and was all in motion, flowly defcending ; and fo continued till dark. The ground thus rent contained about an acre of pafture-land, and had cattle then feeding upon it, and was on a level with the main land, but funk near feventeen yards- perpendicular. The fides of the i 4 6 Y O R K S HIRE. A crucifix In ivory, very finely worked, The pictures are, Rubens. Three heads. Raphael. A Cartoon, in blue and white. The atti- tudes and expreffion finely varied. Wovermans. Horfemen. Stone. (After Raphael) Holy Family. Ph. Laura. Venus and Europa. Middling. Brughle. Two landfcapes. Nief. Four of architecture. Old Frank. Hand-writing on the wall. Bajfan. Two pieces. A rock, with light behind it; fine: and an old woman's head ; ditto. Vandervelt. Other fea-pieces. Vanlynt. Daphne and Apollo. Under it two landfcapes, fine. Mafter unknown. BaJJan. Dead Chrift. Polemburgh. Lanfcape. Good. Ricci. A water-fall ; the tree well done. A Galatea in an antique Mofaic. Mumper. Rocks. Tcnieas. Two pieces ; good. Heemjkirk. A groupe of figures. Bugdcn. Grapes, flowers, 5cc. Rembrandt. A grotto. Mumper. Cupid and Pyfche. Rocks and falls of water. Griffier. Two pieces ; fkating. Good. A landfcape. Trees, boats, and figures ; excellent. Artois. Landfcape ; fine. Bugden. Fruit and flowers; good. The butterfly, fine. Bajfan. David and Goliah. Companion to ditto. Griffier. Two fea-pieces. To the right of the faloon are the following rooms. The drawing-room, twenty eight by twenty four. Over the chimney. Carlo Marrat. Portrait of Cardinal Howard, exceed- ingly fine. Two bufts ; Juftinian, and Severus. Two very curious flabs of flowered alabafter; one of red porphery ; two pillars of green porphery. Upon the chimney the following antique bronzes : Apis. An owl. The head of a Roman ftandard: The tapeftry is from the defigns of Rubens^ and fine. Tn another drawing, thirty by twenty-four, are, Bufts ; Julia,, elegant. Poppaea. Agrippfna ; drapery fine. Bronzes. Hercules and Anteus. Centaur and Dejanira ; and A Pallas of oriental alabafter. Geta. Nero. One unknown. The pictures are, Ricci. A fhipwreck. Landfcape; a {how piece ; good. Lely. Queen Catherine. Here likewife is a very curious cabinet of precious ftones ; two flabs of verd antique ; and one of antique black and white. The ftate bed-chamber, twenty-eight by twenty- four. The chimney-piece in this room is very elegant ; the cornice of white marble. In the center of the frieze, pigeons in white marble, polifhed. The fupporters, Co- rinthian pillars ; the fhafts Siena marble ; the capitals and bafes of white : upon it ftands Jupiter Serapis. In the ornaments above, the marriage of the lea, by Canaletti; in which the water is by no means equal to the reprefentation of it in many of his works. The room is hung with excellent Bruflels tapeftry, done after the defigns of Teniers. Dreffing-room, thirty by twenty-four. Here are two very fine flabs of blood jafpcr ; another exceedingly elegant ; an oval of agate furrounded by modern Mofaic. Upon the chimney-piece, which is an elegant one of white marble, are the following : Bronzes. Venus. Mercury. A horfe. The cabinet of Amboyna wood is very elegant. Two landfcapes, that are pretty, and two pieces by Canaletti. In the rooms of the Attic ftory are the following pictures, &c. In the crimfon figured room ; Titian. Holy Family. The colours gone, but the atti- tude fine. Vandyke, (copied from him) Charles I. and Queen. Lely. Joceline Piercy. His daughter. Holbein. A head. In the green damafk-ro.om ; Griffier. Water-fowl. In the Billiard-room. Bufts: Faujlina. Fine. Galba, in porphery. i Excellent. Antoninus Pius,. Commodus. Lepidus. His countenance expreffive of the mean foul, the dupe of his colleagues. Vitellius. Fine. The younger Aurelius. Tully. Fine. Marcel 1 us ; antique Parian. Silenus. Two unknown. Here are tables of the yellow antique ; and two vaft flabs of Egyptian granate. Upon the walls of the room is painted the hiftory of the Trojan war, by Pelegrino. In the yellow bed-chamber ; Griffier. Two pieces of fowls. Cupid and Pfyche.— — — The table of verd antique. In the fecond yellow bed-chamber ; Duhame. Still life. John Vanharp. Rape of Helen. A ftrange group. Three others. Vanderhec. Sic tranftt gloria mttndi. Cupid's Decoy. Vanluyt. Six, by him and Vanharp. Bajfan. Dead Chrift. Leonardo da Vinci. St. Catherine ; good. Duhame. Memento mori. St. Sebaftian ; fine. Rembrandt. Abraham and Ifaac. Borgognone. Battle. Stone. Algernon, tenth earl of Northumberland ; copy from Vandyke. Cooper. Oliver Cooper. In other parts of the houfe are : In the late lord's dreffing-room, Rofa de Tivoli. Two cattle pieces ; very fine. Reynolds. Portrait of the prefent Lord. The dog's head very fine. In the bed-chamber; Zuccarelli. Two landfcapes, brilliant. The groups and attitudes fine. Old Frank. Fqur fcripture-pieces. The offering of the wife men ; exceeding fine finifhing. David and Goliah, very fine. David viewing Berfheba, exquifite. Borgognone. Two battles. Guido. Lucretia, very fine. Lely. Joceline, laft earl of Northumberland. Dog's head, exquifite. James II. General Monk. In the dreffing-room ; Canaletti. Eleven views of Venice, &c. very fine, glow- ing and brilliant. Mariafchi. Two views ditto. P, Panini. YORKSHIRE. for (heep, brafs and pewter: October the tenth, for j hardware, pots and ftrtall ware; and October the ( eleventh, for {heep. • At Kirkham, upon the river Derwent, fouth-weft of ' Malton, Walter El'pec, and Adeline, his wife, in the i vear 1121, founded apricryof canons of the order of St. Auftin, dedicated to the Trinity, and valued, upon the diflblution, two hundred and fixty-nine pounds, five fhillinsis and nine- pence per annum. At Broughton, near Malton, was an hofpital, found- . cd in the reicm oF king Stephen, by the above-men- tioned Euftace Fitz John. At Norton, near Malton, Roger de Flarnville, in the beginning of the reign of king Henry II. founded an hofpital dedicated to St. Nicholas. In the neighbourhood of this town is Caftle Howard, the feat of the earl of Carlifle, built by Vanbrugh, is much vifited by travellers, on account of the great col- lection of antique bufts, ftatues, and marbles it con- tains ; and alfo for the beauty of the woods that furround it almoft on every fide. Thefe are truly magnificent; they are extenfive, very well defigned, and as they in general hang on the fides of the hills, have a noble effect from whatever point they are' viewed. The houfe lofes the grandeur as well as the beauty that ought to attend fo larcre and expenfive a building, in the want of a unity of its oarts, which have as little beauty in themfelves as connection with each other. The front, however, of the new wing, will be light and elegant ; an advan- tage which ferves for little elfe but rendering the reft of the building the more unpleafing. The hall is thirty -three feet fquare by fixty high, ter- minating in a dome at top, it is ornamented with pillars of ftone ; but thefe are lb large, and the height of the room fo out of all proportion, that the area has quite a diminutive appearance. The walls are painted by Pelle- grino, the hiftory of Phaeton. Here are feveral antique bufts and ftatues. Marcus Aurelius. Bucchus. Ceres. Epaphjodites, Nero's fecretary: Hyg.iea. Adrian. Fine. Bacchus. The attitude fine. Paris. Auguftus. Ceres. Fine. Lucius Verus. Vitellius. • Diodumenus, fucceffor of. Cai'acalla. Drapery admi- rable. Marc Antony. Scipio Africanus. Tyberinus. Sabina in the character of Plenty. The attitude and drapery fine. In the faloon, thirty-four by twenty-four, are bufts. Drufus. Jupiter Serapis. Fine. Adrian. M. Aurelius. Fine. Cupid. Admirably fine ; the attitude and expreflion great ; but the modern parts by no means equal to the antique. Apollo. The head, modern. Two groupes ; lions and buffaloes. Didius Julian. The paintings are, Ricci. Four pieces ; the arches good. Titian. Pope Gregory. Very fine. Mars and Venus. The defign in Venus's figure very fine. Holy family. Albert Durer. Vulcan. Corn. Schout. An Automalia. Rembrandt. Bohemian ftiepherdefs. A head. On the left of the faloon, is the following fuite. The dining-room, twenty-eight by twenty-one. Ele- S9 gantly furniftied with picture, bufts, flabs, ore. The chimney-piece is very handlbme, the cornice of Siena and white marble ; in the middle, grapes of poliftied white ; it is fupported by fluted pillars of Siena. The flabs of Sicilian jafper, and an urn of the fineft green granate. Bufts, Marcus Aurelius. A Bacchanal. The pictures are, Zuccarelli. Landfcape, a waterfall. The trees, figures^ and water, excellently done. Ditto. Cattle on a bridge. The groupe, the water, and the cattle, very fine. P. Panini. Ruins. Fine. Tintoretto. Cupid and Pfyche. Fine expreflion. EpagnoUtt. The Prodigal Son. Amazing expreflion. Paul Veronese. Chrift at Emaus. Upon the chimney-piece, three bronzes, Brutus. Caflius. Laocoon. The drawing-room, twenty-one fquare : the flab very antique, and the Roman pavement antique Mofaic : and an urn of Porphery. The pictures are, P. Pannini. Two pieces of architecture ; very fine. Canaletii. Nineteen views of Venice, &c. A capital collection, which difplays the beautiful glow and brilliancy of this matter's colouring in a very high manner. Ricci. A landfcape ; fine; A waterfall. Baptift. Fruit and flowers ; very fine. , ; Zuccarelli. Two landfcapes ; very pleafing ; the figures, attitudes, &c. fine. Albert Durer. Adam and Eve. Abraham and Ifaac. Exquifite nnifhing in that ftile of painting. Correggio. A boy with a dwarf. St. Catherine and St. Cecilia; unknown. Upon the chimney, bronzes. St. Sebaftian. Very fine. Venus. Apis. Antinous. Fine. In the bed-chamber twenty-one fquare, are flabs of antique Mofaic j bronzes. Paris. Laocoon. Apis. Medufa; fine; and a Vefpafian. A fea-piece and a landfcape by Ricci. In the drefling-room. A very fine flab of antique oriental jafper in a border of flowered alabafter ; and another of alabafter of Vol- terra. 1 wo landfcapes by Ricci j indifferent. In the clofet. Two moft curious cabinets formed of precious ftones ; and a flab of antique Mofaic. Canaletti. Four views of Venice, Ricci. Two landfcapes. Vandervelt. Sea-piece. Corn, John/on. Portrait of lord William Howard. Ditto of his wife. Excellent; In the antique gallery are, Many flabs of all the moft rare and curious antique marbles. Some inlaid with numerous kinds of marbles and precious ftones. Urns, vazes, &c. &c. Bufts. Cato. M. Junius Brutus. Caius Caefar. , Geta.- Virgil: Homer. Hercules. A baflb relievo of victory. The attitude and drapery excellent. Cupid on a goat. A duck, with a bell about its neck. A fatyr holding a goat ; fine. P P A crucifix YORKSHIRE. Apollo4 Bacchus. Mars. Mercury. And two burls, one of Tully, the other unknown. The ceilings are very elegant, bafs-relieves in ftucco, and exceedingly well executed. In the center, Flora, incircled with feftoons, very delicate and pleafing, ftnall figures in the fide and corner divifions ; at one end Peace, and at the other Plenty. The chimney- pieces are handfome, the ; r cornices fupported by double Ionic pillars; the ornaments inclofe two landfcapes. The tables are of Sinca marble, and fine. In the dining-room, thirty-three by twenty-five, are the following pictures : Hogarth. Garrick in the character of Richard II I L Titian. Venus and Adonis. Moft capital. The co- lours admirably fine, delicate and expreffive ; the plaits and folds of Venus's naked body, exqui- fitely done. The whole piece inimitably pleaf- ing. So few of this matter's works in his fine brilliant glowing manner, are to be met with in England, that this piece is particularly curious. Moft I have feen of them are of weak faded colour- ing, with none of that happy delicacy and pleafing expreffion, for which he is fo famous ; but both are united in this picture. Madona delle Coniglta. The colouring of this piece alfo Is very fine. The boy is excellently painted ; but the draperies are not pleafing. 'Julio Romano. Holy family. The colouring of this picture alfo is very fine. The attitudes of the figures, excellent ; and the manner in which they are grouped judicious. The draperies are excellent ; but the de- fign of the boy's body appears to me faulty, for the bend in his back is remarkably fharp. JVeJlon. Three land fca pes ; good. That with the ftatue of Hercules, very fine ; that in which is a bridge, pleafing. The keeping fine. The ceiling of this room, like that of the hall, is bafs relieves in ftucco very delicately executed. Jupi- ter, &c. io the center ; and Cupid, &c. in the corners. In the drawing-room, twenty-five by twenty-two, are, Adoration of the fhepherds: a noble picture. The at- titudes of the Virgin, the principal fhepherd and the boy, excellent. The boy is moft happily painted ; but the lights feem unnaturally difFufed they flow from no plain fcurce. Guido. Daughter of Herodias. Very fine. Eliz. Sirani. Head of Ceres. A fmall ftatue of Antoninus ; fine. In the yellow bed-chamber of the fame dimenfions, are, v ' Old Palma. Scourging of Chrift. It was painted in competition with Titian, and crowned. Prodigious fine expreffion, and admirable colours ; but the diffufion of light unnatural. Carlo Dolci. Martyrdom of St. Andrew; middling. Not in that artift's glowing and capital manner. Leonardo dc Vinci. Head of St. Paul. Incomparably the fineft work of this great painter I have feen. The ex- preffion is great ; the colours fine, and the minutiae inimitable. The air of the head is great as Raphael ; the finifhing delicate as Vanderwerf. Le Brim. Salutation of the Virgin. The attitudes fine, and colouring good. Dominichino. St. Catherine. Expreffion incomparably fine : attitude inimitable. A noble picture. Guido. Bacchus coming to offer marriage to Ariadne. Bacchus is the figure of an Hercules ; but Ariadne delicate and elegant. Sweet drapery. Barocbe. Chrift fupported by an angel. Very fine. Guido. Chrift vifiting St. John: The figures and dra- pery very fine. D:miuichi;ii. Converfion of St. Paul: Legs, arms, and lights ! Claude Lor aine. Morning, a landfcape. The light won- derfully fine ; the trees nobly done ; the keeping and expreffion exceedingly great. 59 149 Ditto. Summer evening. Clear obfeure, and brilliant glow, inimitable. The trees finely done. Albano. Venus and Adonis. The colours are brilliant; but Adonis is a clumfy figure, and Venus difguifed by drefs. Nicolo Poufm. A land ftorm ; glorioufly done. Pictro Cortona. Flora. Guido. Artemifia. In the dreffing-room, Carlo Maratt. Affumption of the Virgin: [Fine. Borgognone. Battle-piece ; clear and fine. Gieufeppe Chiari. Chrift carrying the crofs. Seb. Bourdon. Repofe in Egypt. Guido. St. Peter penitent. Expreffion, colours, and finifhing, aftonifhingly fine. Coreggio. Virgin and Child. The attitude and pleafing expreffion, fine; but the colouring dead. Parmegiano, Female faint, prodigioufly fine. Aug. Carrache. Pan overcome by Cupid. Rubens. Nymphs in this matter's ftile ; not tempting ones. Correggio. Virgin and Child, a fketch for his famous Notte. The attitude elegant, and the colours fine. Pajfara. Clorinda wounded by Tancred ; from Taflb.' Great expreffion, but the teints as rough as Baflan's. Bartolomeo. Io changed into a heifer ; the figures by Polemburg. Rubens. Day of judgment. An odious fubject for painting ; but highly finifhed in varnifh. The better fuch works are done, the more they difguft: Salvator Rofa. Two landfcapes. Not in his ufual manner. Carlo Cignani: Madona and Child ; fine; On the other fide ; an anti-room, twenty-four by twenty : blue damafk bed-chamber, twenty-five by twenty. In the clofet, Rembrandt. A Dutch merchant ; fine. Bajjan. Mechanicks. Upon the whole, this collection, though not very numerous, is extremely capital ; the indifferent pictures are few, the fine ones admirable ; fome of them fuffici- ently great to awaken in the beholder the moft raptu- rous delight: Titian, Leonardo da Vinci, Old Palma , Guido, Julio Romano, Dominichino, Parmegiano, PouJin t and Claud Lor aine, may be ftudied in the fmall collec- tion of their works exhibited here, much better than in many more numerous ones: Mr: Duncomb's ornamented grounds are, in their ftile, as curious as his paintings ; and cannot be viewed without yielding a moft exquifite enjoyment; The garden adjoining the houfe backs a terrace, from which the landfcapes are much eafier imagined from a few touches, than defcribed in many words; At one end of it, is an Ionic temple, commanding a noble variety of profpect and landfcape : the former is feen to the left picturefquely, broken by large trees near the temple itfelf : a little to the right of that a vaft extent of country ; then you look down upon a valley, wind- ing at the bottom of a noble amphitheatre of hanging woods, over one of them, and at the other end of the terrace, aTufcan collonnade temple: The oppofite woods which fpread over a fine extent of hill, fringe the very fhore of a beautiful river, which winds through the valley, and forms, almoft in the center of it, a con- fiderable cafcade: Nothing can be more truly beautiful than the bird's eye afl'emblage of objects, which are feen from hence. The valley is interfered by hedges, which form beautiful inclofures of grafs ; the meanders of the river are bold and well broken by fcattered trees; the cafqade almoft over-hung with the pendant wood which, fpreads fo nobly to the view; the Tufcan temple crown- ing a bank of wood, form together a diftinct landfcape, in which every object is fuch as the warmeft fancy would wifh for, or the correcteft tafte approve: This view is beheld with a moving variation as you walk along the terrace, towards the Tufcan temple, with frefh objects breaking upon the eye as you advance: that building being fituated at the point of what one Q_q may I to Yorkshire. may call a promontory of high land, projecting into a Vvinding valley, and planted, the views from it are doubled ; another terrace then appearing, the temple commands fuch various I'cenes of the fublime and beauti- ful as to form a theatre worthy the magnificent pencil of nature. To the left you look upon the valley already defci ibed, with infinite advantage ; for the hanging woods on the oppofite fide are feen in a much greater bending extent than from the former point of view, and have an effect really glorious. The va!;ey, the river, and the cafcade, are feen beneath you at a depth that prefents a full view of every inclofure; the bank of wood againft the garden makes a curve, which has a very fine appearance, bounded at the top by the Ionic temple ; in front, be- tween the hills, an extcn five woody valley opens beauti- fully variegated. An old tower, Helmfley church, and the town fcattered with clumps of trees, are feen in the midft of it at thole points of tafle which make one al- moft think them the effects of deiign. Turning from this nob'e picture to the right, a frefh one is beheld, differing fomewhat from the former, but yet in unifon with it in the emotions which it raifes. The valley con- tinues to wind within a noble hollow of furrounding hills, that throw an awful fublimity over the whole fcene; they are covered with hanging woods, the brownnefs of which fets off" the beauty of the river in a linking man- ner. It is here feen in a greater breadth, and as you look upon the line of its courfe, the fun-beams play- ing on its current throw a luftre on this fequeftered fcene furprizingly elegant. A cafcade in view adds the beauties of motion and found to thofe numerous ones already mentioned. The views therefore from this temple confift princi- pally of two valleys, one to the right, the other to the left ; neither of them are to be feen from the other, but both commanded by the point of the projecting hill, upon which the temple is fituated. The oppofite woods which form of each vale fo beautiful an amphitheatre, are divided in front of this temple by a noble fwelling hill, fcattered over with fern and other rubbifh ; the effect is good ; the object magnificent in itfelf, different from all the furrounding ones, and prefents to the eye a contraft of a ftriking nature. This temple is a circular room finifhing in a dome, the ornaments white and gold in Mofaics ; and four ftatues as large as life in niches; But thofe ornamented grounds are not the only ones boafted of by Duncombe-Park ; at the diftance of about two miles, is another called Rivers' Abbey, from the ruins of an antient one. It is a moll betwitching fpot, worthy the pencil of the greateft landfcape painters; far fhort of the original, therefore, muft any attempts to defcribe it prove. This ground confifts of a noble winding terrace, upon the edge of an extended hill ; along one fide at a ftriking depth is a valley ; on the other a thick planta- tion, bordered by fhrubs. At one end is a circular temple with a Tufcan colonnade ; at the other end ano- ther temple, with an Ionic portico. This is the out- line ; the following particulars muft lerve inftead of colouring. From the Tufcan temple, the end view is ex- ceeding fine ; at your feet winds an irriguous valley, almoft loft in fcattered trees. In front, vaft hanging woods are fpread over the oppofite hills, and form a noble variety of fteeps, dells, and hollows. Here and there the range of wood is broke in amoft beautiful man- ner, by cultivated inclofures; at the bottom of thefe hanging forefts, upon the edge of the valley, an humble cottage is feen in a fituation elegant in itfelf, and truly picturefque in the whole view. The diliant hills which are feen above, are wafte grounds, with fern, whins, &c. which feem to bound the little paradife in view, and add, to the enjoyment of beholding it, that which refults from contrait and unexpected pleafure. Inclining a little to the right, you look down upon a prodigious fine winding valley; on one fide project boldly noble hanging woods, which fringe a continued hull from U* very lummit, to the bottom. Nothing can z be more elegant than this valley, which confifts of a vaft. number of beautiful grafs inciolures, interfered with thorn hedges ; the fcattered trees that rile in them give different fhndes of green, and the light beine feen through their branches, has the real effect of a brilliant clear obfeuiv, fo difficult to be' imitated in painting. This beautiful valley is loft among projecting hills, fome covered with pendent woods, others wafte, and fome cultivated. More to the right towards the terrace, the view is ex- quifite. The waving plantation of trees and fhrubs bound the tcrrrace on one fide; leading to the Ionic temple, which is beautifully fituated, on the other fide, the valley winds in a lower region, and prefents a fcene elegantly romantic. It confifts of grafs inclofures, fine- ly fcattered with trees; a village of ftraggling houfes, keeping their heads above natural clumps, each a land- fcape of itfelf. This fwcet valley is bounded by a noble fweep of hills. Following the terrace, the views vary in a moft piclu- refque manner. Nothing can be finer than the valley waving to the right and left, a river winding through it, almoft overfhadowed with pendent trees, which rife from the very fhore into hanging woods, that fpread forth a fine extent of hilis, beautifully cut with grafs inclofures. A moft bewitching view. Purfuing the courfe, the landfcape opens and prefents its beauties full to the eye. The valley is here broad, the inclofures numerous, the verdure of the meadows beautiful, the fcattered trees truLv elegant ; and the rapid ftream highly picturefque. The hanging woods have a noble appearance ; and in front the termination of an extenfive down fo different from the other objects, has a noble effect. A neat farm-houfe under a clump of trees adds to the beauty of this part of the fcene. Advancing farther on the terrace, a fcene rr.o.e exquifite than any of the preceding, is next viewed. You look through a waving break in the fhrubby wood, which grows upon the edge of a precipice, down immediately upon a large ruined abbey, in the midft, to appearance, of a fmall, but beautiful valley ; fcattered trees ap- pearing among the ruins in a ftile too elegantly pictu- refque to admit defcription. It is a bird's-eye land- fcape ; a cafual glance at a little paradife, which feems as it were in another region. From hence, moving forwards round a curve of the terrace, the objects are feen in new directions ; a variety, not a little pleafing. The ruins of the abbey appear fcattered, and almoft in full view ; the valley in front is broad and highly beautiful. Behind, jt is half loft among the projecting hills, but a new "branch of it appears like a creek running up among hills, nobly fpread with wood. The hanging woods in front are feen to great advantage ; and the abbey with fome fcattereil houfes are moft picturefquely fituated. The inclofures, of which the valley is formed, appear at this point of view extremely beautiful ; the fcattered trees, hay ftacks, houfes and hedges, all together form a moft pleafing landfcape. Two diftant hills give a proper termination to the whole view. Further on from this fpot, you look down a fteep precipice almoft on the tops of the abbey's ruins ; the fituation quite picturefque. Beyond it, the valley ap- pears with fome variations in its ufual beauty ; and turning your head to the fcenes your have left, a bridge of three arches thrown over the river, catches your fight in a fpot which adds greatly to the beauties of the' view. The oppofite banks are finely fpread with hanging woods, and above them the uncultivated hills appear boldly in irregular projections. Before you arrive at the portico, the fcene is much varied ; hitherto an edging of fhrub wood along the brink of the precipice hides its immediate fteepnefs from your eye, but here it is broke away, and you look down on the abbey in a bolder manner than before ; the trees are picturefquely fcattered, and all the other ob- jects feen in great beauty. The view from the Ionic temple is a noble one, equal to any of the foregoing, and different from all. A ftrong YORKSHIRE; A Strong wave in the line of the terrace prefents a view of its own woody, fteep bank, riling in a beautiful manner to the Tufcan temple, which crowns its top. The abbey is feen in a new, but full view ; the bridge finely encompaffed with hanging trees. The range of pendant woods that fringe the oppofite hills appear almoft in full front, and the valley at your feet prefents her profufion of beauties. It is a noble fcene. The Ionic portico'd temple, is a very beautiful room of a mod pleafing proportion, twenty-feven by eighteen, and elegantly ornamented. The ceiling is coved, an oblong in the center containing a copy of Guido's Aurora, done in a very agreeable manner, the graceful attitudes of the hours finely preferved, and the glow- ing brilliancy of the colouring pleafingly imitated. The cove part of the ceiling is painted in compartments. On the four fides, Andromeda chained to a rock : Diana. A fea Venus : attitude good. Hercules and Omphale. Her attitude pleafing, and her whole figure beautiful, though not correct ; the roundnefs of the breads and limbs ; and the plaits and folds of her flefh well done. The expreffibn of the Cupids well imagined. At the corners of the cove, Cupids ; and in fmaller compartments, other fubjects. The whole performance of Burnice, who came horn Italy to execute it. The cornice and frieze, and the chimney-piece, which is of white marble, are very elegant. The former with the pannels of window-cafes, &c. and room, ornamented with gilt carving on a brown ground. Upon the whole, this elegant little room in refpect of proportion and or- nament, is the moft pleafing one ever feen in any temple. At Hovingham, about four miles from Newton, Mr. Wrottefly has a new-built houfe, which is viewed by ftrangers for more reafons than one. The approach is through a very large ftone gate-way, upon which is the following inscription : Virtus in aclione confijiit. and as the building looks pretty much like the gable- end of a large houfe, it is frequently miftaken at firft (with that infeription) for an hofpital. The entrance is directly out of the Street for coaches, through a nar- row paflage into a large riding houfe, then through the anti-fpace of two {tables, and fo up to the houfe door. In the hall, is an antique baflb relievo of a baccha- nalian group. Two bronzes — Hercules Squeezing Anteus; and a Hercules and a flag. Likewife a very good portrait of bifhop Williams. The chimney-piece is of white and Siena marble ; with Doric pillars, an inftance of the bad effect of pillars without bafes even of that order. The pannels of the room are painted in frefco. Sacrifice to Diana. Ditto to Apollo. Time cutting Cupid's wings. In the Doric room, the chimney-piece is of Sicilian jafper ; here are, Lot and his daughters ; in a dark ftile, but good ex- preffion. Bacchus offering marriage to Ariadne. A large landfcape. Good. Two ditto, companions. Over the chimney, another. The cattle, figures, light, and trees well done. In the library, are feveral bulls, and fmall iratues ; a Venus of Medicis in bronze, and over the chimney a landfcape; the colouring of which is unnatural, but it has an agreeable glow, and the light is good. In the drawing-room, the collection of drawings are very fine ; among others, are the following : Venus and Cupids. Hercules, &c. Very fine- A triumphal entry. Ditto. , A naked figure, with a cupid drefling her leg, and a man drawing fomf drapery before her. Admirably done. Perfeus and Andromeda. Excellent. Danae and the golden Shower. Fine. Mars and Venus. An old woman fitting in a chair. Very fine. Women and boys. Exquifite expreflion'. Charity and her children. Very fine. Among the pictures are, Leda. Good j but the colours gone. Venus and Adonis. Ditto. Elizabeth ; a Rubens' figure. In the great room, thirty-five feet fquare, by twenty- five high, are the following, among other pictures. Sufannah and the Elders. Fine ; but no expreflion in her countenance. Lot and his Daughters. In a very dark ftile. Fortune. Prudence, its companion. Good. Lanfcape; the flight into Egypt. Good„ Ditto; light behind a rock. Rocks in Switzerland. Large landfcape; duck fhooting. King Charles ©n horfe-back ; the fame as thofe faid to be by Vandyke; and the horfe by Whooten. From hence we palled on to Thrufk, or Thrifk, one hundred and ninety-nine miles from London. It is an an- cient borough by prefcription, governed by a bailiff, and about fifty burgage-holdn-s. '1 he bailiff is chofen by the burgage-holders, and fworn by the (reward of the lord of the manor, for whom he holds court at Lady- Day, and Michaelmas. The representatives in parlia- ment for this borough, are chofen by the burgage- holders, and returned by the bailiff. Here was ancient- ly a very ftrong caftle, which was demolished by king Henry II. This town fends two members to parliament; has a weekly market on Monday, and five annual fairs, viz. Shrove Monday, April the fourth, and Auguft the third, both three-day fairs, for horfts; October the twenty-eighth, a two day fair ; and December the fourteenth, for horfes, black cattle, fheep and leather. At St. John's Mount, ndrth-eaft of Thrifk, Wil- liam Percy the firft, called Algernoon, in the time of king Henry I. founded a preceptory of Knight's Hof- pitallers, of St. John of Jerufalem, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed, upon the fuppreffion, with one hundred and thirty-feven pounds, two {hillings and one penny per annum. Peter de Holton, about the year 1150, founded a nunnery of the Benedictine order, at Arden, near Thrifk. It was dedicated to St. Andrew, and at the time of the general fuppreffion contained nine religious, whofe revenues amounted to no more than twelve pounds and fix-pence per annum. Helewifia, daughter of Ranulph de Glanville, lord chief juftice of England, in the time of Henry II. founded a monaftery for canons of the Premonftraten- fian order, at; Swainby, near Thrifk, who in the four- teenth year of the reign of king John, were removed to Coveham, near Midlam, by Ralph, lord of Medlam, the fon of the foundrefs. This abbey was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed on the fuppreffion, with yearly revenues, amounting to one hundred and fixty pounds, eighteen millings and three-pence per annum. Before the year 1200, there was an hofpital for fick and poor perfons, at Bagby, on the fouth-eaft fide of Thrifk. From Thrifk we continued our journey to Bedall, a town of fmall note two hundred and fifty-two miles from London. Here is a charity-fchool, and a living worth five hundred pounds per annum. It is reckoned, that in the neighbourhood of this town are bred the belt hunting and road horfes in the world. Here is a weekly market on Tuefday, and fix annual fairs, viz, Eafter-Tuefday, Whit-Tuefday, and July the fifth ; a two-day fair for horned cattle, horfes, fheep, leather, pewter, brafs, tin, and millinary ; Octo- ber the tenth, a two-day fair, for black cattle, fheep, hogs and leather ; and Tuefday fe'nnight before Chrift- mas, for horned cattle and fheep. We next cam* to MaSham, two hundred and feven miles YORKSHIRE. miles from London, remarkable only for a cloth manu- factory ; with a corn mill upon the river Ure. The weekly market of this town is on Saturday, and the annual fair, which lafts two days, September the ieventeenth and eighteenth, for horned cattle, fheep and pedlary. Sir Ralph de Neville, Lord of Midlam, in the year 1342, founded an hofpital at Well, north-eaft of iMafham, for a mafter, two priefts, and twenty-four brothers and fifters, dedicated to St. Michael the Arch- angel, and endowed on the diflblution with forty-two pounds, twelve fhillings and three-pence per annum. In the neighbourhood of Mafham lies Swinton, the feat of Mr, Danby, who has rendered it one of the pleafanteft places in this country; he has furrounded the houfe with a moft beautiful park, finely wooded and watered, and has added plantations and pleafure-grounds in a ftile of great propriety and tafte. With much trouble and expence he brought, feveral miles, a fmall but elegant ftream through his gardens and park, which, in fome places, breaks into very fine lakes ; in others contracts into the frze of a little rill, which winds through the woods in a moft pleafing manner: here falling in cafcades, it enlivens the whole fcene, there withdraws from the eye, and hides itfelf in the dark bofom of tufted groves. The houfe is very convenient, and elegantly furnifh- ed. Among other articles, the following pictures merit the moft attention. Claud Loraine. Landfcape ; a quay. Very fine. The i relief, perfpective and general brilliancy, bold and fpirited ; the light behind the tower, and upon the water, beautiful. Pouffin. Landfcape. The genera! harmony of this piece is good. The trees beautiful, and the colours fpi- rited. Unknown. Landfcape. A thick tuft of trees, with figures and cattle. The brilliancy, and glowing ex- preffion of the light behind the foliage, very pleafing. Ditto. Landfcape, its companion ; boys on an afs, led by another. The exprellion of the boys fine. The little one behind draws up himfelf in a natural man- ner. The afs good. Ditto. A group of figures, part of them around a table. The attitudes very eafy and natural, particularly thofe of the two figures in the fore-ground : the draperies well done. Ditto. A fea-port. The light ftrong and well re- fleaed. Unknown. Small landfcape ; rocks, trees, and a bridge at a diftance. On the right, the trees are in good tafte, but the other objects want diftinctnefs. Ditto. The five fenfes, a group; with emblematical ornaments. Good, but the figures have vulgar coun- tenances : the colouring and the other expreflio'n well done ; indeed the ornamental part is better than the principal. The lap-dog is very much like a lion, and the beauties difplayed by the lady in blue not of" the moft Titian elegance. The architecture is well exe- cuted, and the minute finifhing of the whole fine. School of Raphael. The delivery of the keys. Airs of the head good, but the drapery and general effect not t pleafing. ■Flemifh. A boor with a trumpet in his hand. The at- titude and expreffion very natural. Unknown. Small landfcape, a group of horfemen, with cattle driving through water. The general effect pleafing; the horfes are the moft finifhed part of the piece ; the white one in particular is very fine, and in clear and full relief. Unknown. A flower-piece. Good. Holbein. A head. Very fine. Rembrandt. A Jewifh rabbi, a copy from the famous picture of this mafter. It is an excellent one. The face moft cxpreflively done; the hands good ; the tur- ban excellent; the reft of the drapery and general effect fine and brilliant. Rubens. An archduke of Auftria. Capital. Exceed- ingly f ne, and fpirited expre/Tion. Ditto. His archtJuchefs. Ditto, but inferior to the other. Lely. Three family portraits. Very pleafing. Unknown. Dead game. Very natural. Having viewed this elegant feat, we proceeded on our tour and arrived next at Midlam, fituated on the river Ure, two hundred and fifty-two miles from London. It had formerly a very ftrong caltle, in which Edward, prince of Wales, only fon of Richard III. was born. Here is a woollen manufactory ; a weekly market oa Monday ; and an annual fair November the fixth, for fheep, which lafts two days. In the neighbourhood of this town are frequent horfe-races. In the time of Richard I. Robert, fon of Nicholas de Stutevil, founded a nunnery of Benedictines, or Cifter- tians, at Rofedale, not far frcm Midlam. It was dedi- cated to St. Mary, and St. Laurence, and endowed at the fuppreflion with thirty-feven pounds, twelve fhillings and five-pence per annum. In the church at Wenflay, near Midlam, there are fome remains of a college, dedicated to the Trinity. We next arrived at Afkrig, a fmall obfeure town, one hundred and feventy-five miles from London, of no note but for a weekly market on Tucfday, and three annual fairs, viz. May the eleventh, and the firft Thurfday in June, for woollen cloth, pewter, brafs and millinary goods; and October the twenty-eighth, a two- day fair, for horned cattle, woollen cloth, pewter, and millinary. At Baint-brig, near Afkrig, are dill to be feen the ground works of a Roman fortification, containing about five acres of ground, together with the tracts of houfes; arid a ftone was dug up here, with the following frag- ment of an infeription, fupported by the fipure of a winged viaory. IMP. CMS. L. SEPTIMO PIO PERTINACl AVGV. IMP. C2£- SARI M. AVRELIO A — PIO FELICI AVGVS- TO BRACCHIO CAE- MENTICIVM — VI NERVIORVM SVB CVRA LA SENECION AMPLISSIMI OPERI L. VI. SPIVS PRM — — LEGIO — — whence it is conjectured, that this fort was called Brac- chium, and that the fixth cohort of the Nervii was in garrifon here. Here has alfo been dug up a flatue of the emperor Au- lius Commodus, in the habit of Hercules, his right hand armed with a club; and on the pedeftal is the following imperfea infeription. C^ESARI AVGVSTO MAR- CI AVRELII FILIO _ _ _ _ SEN IONIS AMPLISSIMI VENTS — __ PIVS. At Rere-crofs, north of Afkrig, upon Stanemore, and the borders of Weftmoreland, was an ancient hofpital given to the nunnery of Meraick, before the year 1171, by Ralph, the fon of Ralph de Multon, or by Conan, earl of Richmond. Leaving Afkrig, we purfued our journey to Rich- mond, fo called by a fmall variation of Rich-Mount, a name derived from the fituation of. this town upon a beautiful and fertile mount, or hill, on the north bank of the river Swale, two hundred and fixty-two miles from London. It was built by Allan, one of William the Conqueror's generals, and firft earl of Richmond ; and is a borough, governed by a mayor, a recorder, twelve aldermen, twenty-four common-coun- cil men, and other officers who keep courts for all forts of aaiens. Here are thirteen free companies of tracief- men, who chufe the mayor ; and this borough has been annexed to the dutchy of Lancafter, ever lincc the reign of Richard II. Richmond is inclofed with walls, in which are three gales, leading to three fuburbs. It formerly had a caftle, built by carl Allan, part of which is ftill ftanding. It is a large, well built, populous town ; the ftreets are neat and well paved, and many of the houfes are built of free ftone. Here are two churches, and a good ftonc bridge over the river Swale. The chief manufadtures of this town arc woollen knit caps for feamen, and yarn ftockings, for lervants, and ordinary people. 1 Th; Y O R K s The views about Richmond are remarkably fine, the fituation being very romantic and pleating. Juft before you enter it, down in the valley to the left, the river winds in a moft: beautiful manner below the hills, and forms a cafcade, which enlivens the fcene, and has a very fine effect. Mr. York's gardens in the town are very well worth feeing, as the beauty of the fituation is not only naturally great, but much improved by art. Upon a rifirg ground near the houfe, is erected a tower, a good object in itfelf, and commands a good view. To the right is feen a very fine fheet of the river, under a noble hanging wood, which, bearing round towards the left, forms a fine amphitheatre, terminated to the left by the town, and the old caftle on a rifing part of it. Beyond it, a diftant profpecT The whole very fine. From this building, a terrace fkirts a pafture, and from it the fcene varies in a very agreeable'manner. You look upon a very pleafing valley, through which the river winds, fteep rocky woods on one fide, and waving Hopes, on the other. Soon after you command, through the vale, a large diftant hill, the banks covered with hanging wood, and the top cut into corn and grafs in- clofures. Following the terrace you come to an alcove feat, from whence the view is extremely pleafing. To the right, the river comes from a tuft of hill and wood in a moft piclurefque manner, and giving a fine curve, bends round a grafs inclofure, with a cottage, hay flacks, &c. and then winds along befoie you under the noble bank of hanging wood, which you look down on from the tower. The hills bound the valley moft beautifully, and confine the view to a fmall but pleaf- ing extent. That feared with rock is a fine objecT: ; and the grafs inclofures above its fteep of wood have a moft elegant effect. To the left fome fcattered houfes, and the churches, give a termination on that fide which varies the profpecl. Winding down the flope towards the river, the views continue very pleafing ; as you advance a little temple (Mr, Ritchie's) at a diftance in the vale, romantically fituated among hanging woods, adds much to the fcene. The walk borders the river through a meadow, and leads to the mouth of a cavern, hollowed out of the rock in a proper ftile, which brings you to the point of view, on the fide of the hill, from which you look down on the river, and oppofite on the bank of hanging wood. Other walks from hence lead to the banquetting-room, which is well fituated for commanding a pleafing view of various objects. In front, and to the right, you look into a moft noble amphitheatre of hanging wood, and the river winding at its feet. To the left the town fpreads over a hill, in one part the caftle appears, and below the bridge over the Swale. The whole is piclu- refque and pleafing. The bridge and caftle are alfo feen to great advantage from the corner of the terrace on the banks of the" river. About? the year 1 100, Wymar, fteward to the earl of Richmond, gave a chapel in this town, dedicated to St. Martin, with fome lands in the neighbourhood, to the abbey of St. Mary, at York ; upon which, nine or ten Benedictine monks were fixed in this chapel, where they continued fubordinate to the monaftery of St, Mary, until the general diffolution, when they were found to be poffefled of revenues valued at forty-feven pounds, and fixteen {hillings, per annum. In the year 1151, Roald, conftable of Richmond, founded here a Premonftratenfian abbey, dedicated to St. Agatha, in which, at the time of the general fup- preflion, were about feventeen canons, endowed with yearly revenues rated at one hundred and eleven pounds, feventeen (hillings, and eleven-pence. In the time of king Henry II. here was a nunnery, of which no particulars are known. Here was alfo at the fame time an hofpital, founded by king Henry II. and dedicated to St. Nicholas, which continued to the general fuppreffion, when it had revenues rated at thir- teen pounds, twelve {hillings, per annum. Ralph Fitz -Randal, lord of Middleham, in the year .1258, founded here a houfe of Grey-friars, And fome 60 HIRE. i 5 .| are of opinion, that here was a houfe of White-friars ; but this opinion is not well fupported. In the time of king Henry III. here was founded a cell of Alien monks, fubordinate to the abbey of Begare, in Britanny. Richmond .fends two members to parliament ; has a weekly market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, viz. Saturday before Palm-Sunday, firft Saturday in July, and Holy Rood, September the fourteenth, for horfes, ftieep and black cattle. On the tops of fome of the vaft mountains near Rich- mond, are found great quantities of ftones like cockle- fhells, fome of which are buried in the middle of firm rocks, and others in beds of lime-ftone, at fix or eipht fathoms under ground. Some call them urn lime-ftones, and fuppofe them to be produced by a more than ordi-- nary heat, and a quicker fermentation, than they allow to the formation of the other parts of the quarry. Cattarick, a village upon the bank of the river Swale, near Richmond, was the Catura£tonium and Catarrac- ton of Ptolemy and Antoninus. The prefent name is a fmall variation of the ancient names Catura&onium and Cararracton, which feem to have been derived from the cataract formed by the river Swale near this place. In the time of the Romans this was a great city, through which Ptolemy, in an aftronomical work called Magna Conftruclio, defcribes the twenty-fourth parallel of north latitude, and makes it diftant from the equator fifty- feven degrees. Cattarick ftands upon a Roman high- way, that erodes the river at this place, and by the ruins ftill vifible in and around it, appears to have been a city of a large extent, and ftrongly fortified. On the eaft fide, near the river, is a huge mount, fecured by four fmaller works ; and upon the bank of the river the foundations of very ftrong walls are ftill difcernable. In the reign of king Charles I. a large pot, confiding of an uncommon mixture of metals, and capable of containing twenty-four gallon?, was found here, almoft full of Roman coins, the far greateft part of which was copper ; and in 1703 a vault was difcovered near this place, containing a large urn and two fmaller ones. Upon a 'hill in the neighbourhood of this town, ad- joining to a farm-houfe called Thornburgh, have been found many Roman coins ; one in particular, of gold, had this infeription, Nero Imp. Gezfar. and on the reverfe, Jupiter Cujlos. Here have alfo been dug up bafes of old pillars, and a brick floor, with a leaden pipe palling perpendicularly down into the earth. It is thought that this was a place for performing facrifices to the infernal gods, that the blood of the vi&ims defcend- ed by this pipe, and that Thornburgh was the Vicus juxta Catarraffam, mentioned by Antoninus. In and about Cattarick have been found feveral {tone* with Roman inferiptions, among which was an altar inferibed as follows, DEO QVI VIAS ET SEMI- AS COMMENTVS EST T. IRDAS S. C. F. V. L. L. M. VAR1VS V1TALIS ETE COS ARAM SACRAM RESTITVIT APRONIANO ET BRADVA COS. FromCattarick the Roman highway runs through Aid- borough to Powes, north-weft of Richmond. In the Iti- nerary of Antoninus, Bowes is called Lavatrae and Levatrae. which name is fuppofed to be derived from a fmall river near it, called the Laver. Here the firft cohort of the Thracians was garrifoned, in the reign of the emperor Severus, when Virius Lupus was lieutenant and pro- praetor of Britain, as appears by the following inferip- tion upon a ftone dug up at this place. DAE — — FORTVNiE VIR1VS LVPVS LEG. AVG. PR. PR. BALINEVM VI IGNIS E XV. STVM. COH. I. THRACVM RESTITVIT CVRANTE VAL. FRONTONE PR^EF— EQ, ALJE VETTO. Here is a church, in which is a ftone ufed formerly for a communion-table, with the following infcriptioii in honour of Hadrian the emperor. IMP. C/ESARI DIVI TRAIANI PARTHICI MAX. FILIO DIVI NERV./E NEPOTI TRAIANO HADRIANO AVG. PONT. MAXM: — — COS.- I. P. P. COH: IIII; F. IO. SEV. R r Many 154 O R K H I E. Many more ftones have been dug up here with Roman infer ptions; and at Gretabridge, not far from Bowes, has been a Roman camp, in which feveral Roman coins >'ave been found, and a ftone altar, with the following i fcription. \:EJE NVMERL* NVMINI BRIG. il'T IAN. At Rookby, near Gretabridge, in 1702, a ftone altar was dug up, inferibed thus, DE/E NIMPHAINE INBR1CA ET IANVARIA XET 1BINVS — — MV lOSONIRVN. Upon the fame military way, north-weft of Bowes, are the remains of a fmall fquare Roman fort, now called Maidcn-caftle. Temple Brough, upon the bank of the river Don, near Rotherham, is another Roman fort ; and the remains of a third fort are ftill vifible not far from Sheffield. Over againft Temple Prough, on the oppofite fide of the river, is a high hill, called Winco Bank, from which a large bank is thrown up, and continued al- moft five miles with ut interruption ; one part of which is called Danes-Bank, another Devil's-Bank, a third Kemp's- Bank, and a fourth part Temple-Bank. At Gilling, near Richmond, queen Eanfleda, before the year 659, built a monaftery; which was afterwards deftroyed by the Danes. In the year 685, St. Cuthbert, founded a monaftery at Croke, not far from Richmond, which was in being two-hundred years afterwards. Akarius, the fon of Bardolph, in the year 1 145, founded a priory at a place formerly called Fors, not far from Richmond, fubirJinate to the monaftery of Biland; but the abbot and Ciftcrtian monks at Fors labouring under feveral inconveniencies, on account of their fitua- tion, were removed, in the year 1156, to Jervaux, north-weft of Mafham ; where, upon a pleafant valley affigned them by Conan, duke of Britanny, and earl of Richmond, they built a church and offices, and flourifhed till the general fuppreftion, when their yearly revenues were rated at two hundred and thirty-four pounds, eighteen {hillings and five pence per annum. At Marrick, fouth-weft of Richmond, Roger de Afc, about the beginning of the reign of Henry II founded a Benedictine nunnery, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endowed with revenues, rated upon the fup- preffion at forty-eight pounds, eighteen (hillings and three-pence, per annum. In the beginning of the reign of Henry II. Bertram de Balmer founded a monaftery of men and women, at Marton, near Richmond ; and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary ; but the nuns were foon afterwards re moved to Melfonby, north-eaft of Richmond. The religious men, who were canons of the order of St Auftin, continued here till the geperal fuppreftion, when their yearly revenues were rated at one hundred and fifty-four pounds, five fhillings and four-pence. King Henry II. before the year 1167, founded -a Benedictine nunnery at Melfonby, dedicated to St. John the Apoftle and Evangelift. About the time of the diftblution it had a priorefs, and nine religious, with yearly revenues, valued at no more than twenty- fix pounds, two fhillings and ten-pence. South-eaft of Richmond, at a place called Ellerton, Warnerius, dapifer to the earl of Richmond, in the time of king Henry II. founded a fmall priory of Cif- tertian nuns, whofe revenues, upon the fuppreftion, were valued at fifteen pounds, fourteen fhillings and eight-pence, per annum. At Eggleton, north-weft of Richmond, was an abbey of Premonftratenfian canons, fuppofed to have been founded by Ralph de Multon, about the beginning of the reign of king Richard I. It was dedicated to St. Mary and St. John the Baptift, and had yearly reve- nues valued upon the fuppreftion at fixty-five pounds, five fhillings and fix -pence. About the fifth year of the reign of king John, Allan de Wilton, founded a fmall priory of Gilbertine canons, at Ovinton, north of Richmond, which was valued upon the difiolution at eleven pounds, two fhillings and eight-pence per annum. 2 This part of Yorkfhire, known by the name of Rich- mendfhire, is one of the moft remarkable parts of the kingdom, and could not fail to induce us to vifit fo ro- mantic a fpot. Out firft excurfion was towards Greta- bridge, and in our way we vifited Rookby, the feat of Sir Thomas Robinfon. The collection in the houfe is curious, and the pleafure ground romantic. In a back arcade, on entering the former, are the fol- lowing bufts, &c. Apollo. Diogenes. Fine. Two Roman Emperors, and their wives. In the arcade. Homer. Very fine. Virgil. Demofthenes. Petrarch and Laura, a bafs- relief. Mercury and Jupiter. Three boys blowing bubbles. Deftruclion of Niobe's children. Fine. Virgin and Child. Cupid. Group of boys. Five Virgins, a group. Attitudes and drapery very fine. One would imagine Guido had taken from this relief the idea of his hours : Claudite ojlla virgines lufimus fatis, Catul. Eleg. 59. Origine in hortis Burghefiis A fmall ftatue of Hercules, with the Ncemean fkin. In the yellow bed-chamber. Venus and Adonis, in the ftile of Rubens. Jupiter and Danae. Very fine and expreftive. Portraits. Sir Ifaac Newton. Peter the Great. Charles the Twelfth. Cardinal Woolfey. Very fine. Duke of Loraine. Prince Eugene. Duke Schomberg. King of Sardinia. None of thefe pieces are bad. Library. Jupiter and Io. Difagreeable. Apollo, rewarding Merit, and punifliing Ar~ rogance. Good. Europa. Attitude and drapery good. Colours gone. Diana and Acteon. Middling, but ditto. The expreflion of Adteon paltry. Ruins of Rome. Hercules. Fine. Mercury. Heavy. Apollo. Ceres. And two unknown. Bufts. Adrian. Paulina. Very fine. . Julia. Fine. Others unknown. In the chimney-piece, a piece of antique Mofaic. Crimfon dra>Ving-room. Choice of He/xules. Expreftion and, colours bad. Two heads ir> crayons. Admirably fine^ Bafs-relief of Diana. Attitude and drapery very fine. Two Tufcan vafes. Two antique bronzes ; Cerberus and another. In the center a model of the horfe at Charing-Crofs. In a wing of the houfe is an apartment called the Mufieum ; where is treafured much learned lumber j among other food for an antiquarian, are King Athelftan's tomb. Ceres. Priam. Ifis. Bafs-reliefs. Statues. Bufts, &c. Sic. The pleafure ground is romantic, and were it kept in YORKSHI re. 1 ft* iomething of order, would be much admired. The tea-room is very romantically fituated on the rocky hanks of the Greta, raging like a torrent over the rocks, and tumbling in a romantic manner under the windows. A little below it joins the Tees, under noble rocks of free ftone overhung with wood. Above the room, the other way, are fome very romantic rocks on the fide of a. terrace by the water. After leaving Greta-Bridge, the profpects from the hills are very pleafitog for a few miles, over beauti- ful variega:ed inclofures bounded by hills ; and pur- fuing this moft delightful line of country, we next came to Eggleftone, romantically fituated among rocks, fteeps of wood, raging torrents, beautiful cafcades, a fine affemblage of the noble touches of nature. Mr. Hutchefon's houfe is fweetly fituated in the midft of thefe rural wonders. Advancing towards Middleton, from the hill before you defcend to the village, the molt glorious profpedt opens to the view that imagination can picture ; you look down upon the left over a noble extenfive valley interfered with hedges and a few wall* into fweet in- cloiures, which being quite below the point of wew are feen diftinct, though almoft numberlefs ; the fcat- tered trees, the houfes, villages, &c. &c. ornament the fcene, in a manner too elegant to admit of defcrip- tion. Beneath your feet at the bottom of a vaft preci- pice, rolls the Tees, which breaks into noble fheets of water, and throws a magnificence over the fcene, that is greatly ftriking ; another river winding through the vale, falls into the mafter of its waters and its name. Together, they exhibit no lefs than twenty-two fheets of water fcattered over the plain in the moft exquifite manner ; the trembling reflection of the fun-beams from fo many fpots in fuch a range of beauty, has an effect aftonifhly fine. Elegant beyond all imagination. After you leave Middleton, the eye of the traveller is again feafted with the moft luxuriant beauties that inanimate nature can exhibit. The vales to the left are exquifitely pleafing. In fome places the road hang3 over the Tees on the brink of wild precipices ; in others the river winds from it. The plain \k about a mile and an half broad, and furrounded with mountains, fo that the picture is every where complete and bounded. The Terpentine courfe of the Tees is amazingly fine ; it bends into noble fheets of water quite acrofs the valley ; and feems to call for the proud burthen of fwelling fails, to finifh fo complete a fcene. Nothing can be more pleafing than the numerous inclofures on the banks of the river, cloathed with the freiheft verdure, and cut by hedges full of clumps of wood, and fcattered with ftraggling trees. The villages enliven every part of the fcene. P rom the hills around this paradife, the fport of nature in her gayeft mood, innumerable cafcades pcur down the rocky clefts, and render every fpot elegantly romantic. Purfumg your track through this delicious region, you crofs fome wild moors, which contraft the pictures you have beheld, and render thofe that follow more pe- culiarly beautiful. After paffing Newbigil, you come to a fpot called' Dirt Pit, one of the moft exquifite bird's-eye landfcapes in the world. It is a fmall, deep, fequeftered vale, coniaining a few inclofures of a charna- in»- verdure, finely contrnfted by the blacknefs of the furrounding mountains. Upon the whole, it is one of thofe fcenes one would imagine rather the fport of fancy than the work of nature. Leaving this enchanting region, we crofted a very different country, partaking much more of the terrible fublime, than the pleafing and beautiful. Here you ride through rapid ftreams, ftruggle along the fides of rocks, crofs bleak mountains, and ride up the channel of tor- rents as the only fure road over bogs ; liftening to the roar of the water-fall, which you begin to think tre- mendous. Upon arriving at the banks of the Tees, where it pours down the rock, fteeps of wood prevent your feeing it, out the roar is prodigious. Making ufe of our hands as well as feet, and defcending almoft like a parrot, we crawled from rock to rock, and reached from bough to bough, till we got to the bottom under this noble fall. Noble indeed ! for the whole river, (no trifling one) divided bv one rock, into two vaft torrents, pours down a perpendicular precipice of near four- fcore feet. The deluging force of the water throws up fuch a foam and mifty rain, that the fun never fhines without a large and brilliant rain-bow appearing. The whole fcene is glorioufly romantic, for on every fide it is walled in with pendent rocks an hundred feet high ; here projecting in bold and threatening cliffs, and there covered with hanging woods, vvhofe only nourifhment one would imagine arofe from the defcending rain. The fcene is truly fublime. After viewing this beautiful cafcade, we returned by another road through this romantic country, and were entertained with the moft beautiful landfcapes from the top of every precipice. One of thefe va) lies in parti- cular exhibited a landfcape more beautiful than the greateft mafter in painting ever drew.- On one fide a cafcade from the adjacent rocks poured down the broken declivity of the mountain, fometimes loft amidft the dark fhadow of the rocks, and then emerging in all its beauty, produced an enchanting effect. In the middle of the valley, the waters had formed a bafon ;:mong the rocks, furrounded with trees, cloathed in the m ft beautiful verdure; and flowed from thence in a pure trancfuil ftream. The whole banks of this delightful rivulet Were beautifully varied in waving flopes of dales, forming five or fix meadows, covered with the moft charming verdure ; while fpreading trees fcattered about the edges of thefe lovely inclofures, completed the fcene, and rendered it beautiful beyond defcrip- tion. Our fecond excurfion from Richmond was towards Schorton, where we turned off to Keplin, to view the feat of Chriftopher Crowe, Efq ; which, among other elegant decorations, contains the following paintings .- BaJJan. Adoration of the fhepherds. A moft capital picture. The expreflion exceedingly fine; and the colours excellent. The attitude of the virgin is graceful and delicate. The expreflion of her coun- tenance admirable, and the drapery of the veil about her head well defigned. The boy is excel- lently performed ; his attitude fine, and the bold re- lief of his head incomparable ; but, like all the children of painting, has too much animation in his countenance. The old man's head, v.'ho leans it on his hand, in a fine ftile. The figure, who kneels, and holds the afs by a rope, is extremely well de- figned ; the relief noble, and the fpirit of the tints fine: but excellently, as this figure is executed in fome refpects, in others it is equally faulty ; it is of no expreflion, and the attitude moft unmeaning. The figures by the afs, are fomewhat expreifive, but in nothing relative to the fubject of the picture; in- deed the whole group of the afs and the three fhepherds is ftrangely introduced, having fcarce any thing to do with the bufinefs of the piece. The afs's head is furprizingly finifhed. The landfcape is not pleafing. Upon the whole, the fpirit and relief of the figures, with the ftrength of the colouring, render it a moft noble picture; and it is not done in the coarfe blotch- ing ftile, fo common to the pieces which pafs under the name of Bajfan. Venetian School. Two courtezans, a brown and a fair woman ; the latter is very fine, the attitude and the countenance pleafing ; and the drapery good. The expreflion of the light and relief ftrong. Horizonti. A large landfcape. A caftle on a hill, with a river at the foot. The trees with the light behind them well done ; the attitudes of the figures very na- tural ; and the goats well executed. Ditto. A facrifice. The variety and attitudes of the figures very well imagined ; the light between the trunks of the trees on the right lively, and gives a full relief. The colours more natural than in the other piece. Upon the whole, a pleafing picture. Luca Carlovarli. Four views of Rome. No. i- A quay. The attitudes, bufinefs, variety, and expreflion of the figures, good. The water na- tural j O i$6 YORKSHIRE. tural ; and the architecture in a good tafte ; but the famenefs of the colours unpleafing. No. 2. The figures fpirited, the architecture fine, and the general effect pleafing. No. 3. The figures good, but the architecture and ruins not very picturefque. No. 4. Fine. The fhrubby wood, growing out of the rock, with the light behind it, piciurefque and pleafing ; the architecture not in the bell ftile for painting. Four views of Venice. The vaft variety of the figures in thefe pictures, very well executed and expref- five ; the architecture minutely finilhed ; the per- fpective excellent, and the colours pleafing. School of the Carrachi. A woman pointing out two boy angels to a girl. At prefent in two pieces. Her figure is very mafculine ; the relief bold and fine ; her left leg almoft projects from the canvas. The dra- pery is good ; and the attitudes of the boys ex- cellent. Luca Giordano. Two gateways ; fine. The colours very good; and the architecture the Tame. Four pieces of ruins. Very fine. Unknown. Marriage of Jofeph before the High Prieft. Excellent. The group^ altitudes, colours, and ex- preffion, fine. Ditto An Ecce Homo, and a Mater Dolorofa : com- panions. The exprefiion of the countenances very great; and the finifhing exquifite. Ditto. Leda, and Danae, companions. Moft pleaf- ing; the naked finely defigned and very well co- loured, but both their countenances are devoid of the animation of the moment. Leda turns from her fwan with the moft perfect indifference. FlemiJ}} School. Four pieces of family bufinefs in low life. Very expreffive and well coloured. Rofalba. Cymon and Iphigenia. Very pleafing. Iphi- genia's attitude and body fine; but the colours gone. Unknozvn. Virgin and child ; an oval. Fine. Flemijh School. Boors at cards. Expreffive. Unknown. Six cattle-pieces, roughly finifhed, but well executed. Brammante. The offering of the wifemen. The finifh- ing of this piece is very fine : but the ideas are all thofe of a boor ; and one of the necks is twilled even to painting the eye. Unknown. Three fmall landfcapes ; companions. The center one fpirited and well finilhed. Scarlatti. A madman's brains. This is truly phrenfy embodied. Viviano. Landfcape. Very fine ; the colours elegant, and the perfpective light, through the rock pictu- refque. Unknown. Four fmall cattle pieces on copper. The colours very fine, and the defign fpirited. Ditto. Landfcape; the flight into Egypt. Excellent. Ditto. Landfcape ; a hermit's cave. The rocks and trees very wild and fine ; and the light through the cavities natural and picturefque. Jan. Stecn. Two fmall landfcapes. Pleafing. Unknown. Two pieces on copper. One a wild ro- mantic wood, trunks of trees, &c. The other, rocks by the fea. The laft pleafing ; the colours of both fine. Borgognone. Two battle-pieces. Done in his wild rough manner, but exceeding fpirited. Unknown. A cat's and a grey-hound's head : fine. The latter exquifite. Ditto. Dogs and dead game : good. Their poftures fine. Ditto. Diana ; moft admirable finifhing. Nothing more exquifite than the naked ; but incomplete where it ought to be moft highly touched. Ditto. Saturn and Ops. Ditto. Exceeding fine. Ditto. Paris and the three goddefies. Exquifite finish- ing. Their attitudes varied, and the naked elegant. Ditto. Hercules and Dejanira. Incomparably finifhed. Ditto. Seven pieces of fruit, &c. Pleafing. Ditto. A fifh-piece, excellent. Ditto. Ditto and cellery. Ditto. Ditto. Another of fifh. Ditto. Ditto. Two cattle-pieces. Very pretty. Ditto. Woman with two children. Ditto. A Magdalen. Attitude and colours moft pleaf- ing and delicate. Ditto. Cupid and Pfyche. Incomparably finilhed. Ditto. Pan and Cyrinx. Fine, Ditto. Venus and a fleeping Cupid. Exceeding fine finifhing, exprefiion and attitudes. Brughle. Two figures with fruit and fowls, &c. &c. moft capital. The hen in the bafket is abfolute life; the boldnefs of the relief one would think beyond the power of paint; for the hollovvnefs of the bafket, and the reprefentation of fpace between the twigs and the hen, are incomparably done. The ducks alfo excel- lent. The colouring of the whole picture ftrong and natural. But the vacancy, the unmeaning inanity of the woman's countenance, beyond conception. In fome fubjects where ideotifm was wanted, fhe would figure nobly. Hanibal Carracche. An old woman fitting in her chair and reeling. The exprefiion of this piece is furpriz- ingly great. The face and hands moft incompara- bly done; they are nature itfelf ; the drapery a moft true imitation ; the attitude eafy and natural : and, in one word, the whole piece aftonifhingly exe- cuted. Unknown. Two Venetian Gondoliers at cards. Great ftrength of exprefiion. Gifolphi. Two pieces of architecture. Very fine. Two figures with (pears wonu< i fuily fpirited. Holbein. Portrait of Count Bragao mo, a Venetian no- bleman. Fine. School of Raphael. Virgin and child. The common attitude very graceful and fine. Lely. King Charles II. The frame cut out" of the royal oak ; and the king's privy feal upon it ; viz. a Cupid drawn in a car by a lion and a goat ; under it Charlotte Litchfield. Ditto. Lady Litchfield. Kneller. Earl of Litchfield. Ditto. Lord treafurer Godolphin. Ditto. The Great Duke of Marlborough. Having viewed this beautiful range of country, wc proceeded on our tour, and next arrived at Allerton, fo called by a variation or corruption of the Saxon name Calferton, it is alfo called North Allerton, to difiinguifh it from feveral other towns in this county of the fame name. It is an ancient borough, governed by a bailiff", deputed for life by the Bifhop of Durham, which bailiff', or his deputy, prefides at the election for its members for parliament. This town lies upon the bank of a fmall river called the Whifke, in the road from London to Berwick, two hundred and twenty-nine miles from. London : and confifts of only one ftreet, which is half a mile long and well built. King William Rufus gave this place with the fields that funound it to the church at Durham, to whofe bifhops, Allerton was formerly much indebted for feveral benefactions. Bifhop Comin built a caftle here, which was long fince deftroyed, and the bilhops his fuccefibrs granted it fundry privileges. On the eaft fide of the town was an hofpital, found- ed by Hugh Pufar, in the latter part of the reign of Henry II. or the beginning of the reign of Richard I. About the time of the diflblution, he;e was 2 mafter, three chaplains, four brethren, two filters, and nine poor perfons, whofe revenue v/ere then valued at fifty-eight pounds, ten {hillings and ten-pence, per annum- William de Alvcrton, founded a houfe of Auftin Fryars, about the year 1339 ; and on the Eaft fide of the town was a houfe ot VVhite Fryars, founded by Thomas Hatfield about the year 1 354' anc ^ dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Thefe benefactors were all hi/hops of Durham. This town is rendered remarkable by the battle of the ftandard in which David king of Scots was defeated by the Englifh. It derived its name from the extraordi- nary ftandard brought into the field on that day by the Englifh, being an immenfe chariot with a very tall malt fixed in it ; on the top of which was, .a crofs, and under Y O R K S under that a b.inner. This ftandard, like the Carrocium jtrf the Italians, and Oj iflambe of the French was never brought out but in the greateft expeditions, when the government itlelf was at ftake. The field in which this battle was fought, which was in. the fourth year of the reign of king Stephen, is to this. day called ftandard- hill, and ibme hollow places where, it is fuppofed the Scots flain in the battle where buried, are ft ill- known by the name, Scots Pits. G Allcrton fends two members to parliament, has a good weekly market on Wednefday lor cattle and cprn^ ,#od three annual fairs, viz. February the thirteenth,- May,the fourth,, and October the fecond, for horfesj horned cattle and fheep. Thefe fairs are the molt frequented of »nv in England, and the molt remarkable for large fat oxen. . . ; At Laic nby, near this town, John de Lythegraynas, and Alice, his wife, .in the eighteenth year of the reign or Edward 1. 1 ereclxd/a, chape!, dedicated to the Virgin Mary; and therein eftabl idled a chantry, college, or hcfpital, for a mailer and fix chaplains, whofe revenues were valued, upon the difiblution,. at nine pounds, fix fhillings and eight-pence, pc- v annum. At Ofmotherly, north-eaft of Allerton, there feems to have been a collegiate church in thd time of Edward L . Thomas Holland, duke of Surry, earl of Kent, and lord Wake, in the year 1396, founded a Cartbufian priory at iVlour.tgrace, north-eaft c f Allerton. It was dedicated to t Virgin Mary, and St. Nicholas, and endowed, at the general diffblution, with three hun- dred and eighty-two pounds, five fhillings and eleven- pence, per annum. Leaving Allerton, we palled on to Whitby, a well- built town, fituated on the German Ocean, at the mouth of a finall river called the Efk, two hundred and twenty-feven miles from London. Here is a cuftom- houfe, and a good harbour, much frequented by the colliers. The belt and ftrongeft veflels ufed in England for the coal trade, are built in this port ; upwards of a hundred veffels, of eighty tons burthen or more, belong to it; and vaft quantities of butter and corn are fent from hence to London, and fometimes to Holland; The harbour, and piers being fomewhat decayed, they were repaired by virtue of two adts of parliament, in the firft and feventh years of the reign of queen Anne ; and in the year 1733, an act palled to preferve, continue, and keep the faid piers in repair for ever. By means of thefe feveral acts of parliament, the piers of this town have been rebuilt and compleated ; notwith- standing which '.or fome years paft, the entrance into the port has been rendered very narrow and difficult, by reafon of a bank of fand, which having gathered con- fiderable round the head of the weft pier, the harbour was in danger of being choaked up by it; nor could this inconvenience, in the opinion of the belt judges, be re- dreiTed, but by lengthening the pier, and extending its head, about a hundred yards farther into the fea. This occasioned another act to pafs in the eighth year of the reign of king George II. for lengthening the welt pier, and improving the harbour. At the foot of fome high rocks in this town have been found the cornua ammonis, or ferpent ftones, as they are commonly called from their fpiral figure. They are naturally round, but when broken, ftony ferpents are found in them ; but for the moft part headlefs. They are looked upon by fome as a Lafus naturae ; but more reafonably fuppofed by others, to be the effects of the univerfal deluge. Thefe rocks are at the eaft fide of the harbour, nearly perpendicular, and about one hundred and eighty feet above the level of the fea. At high water the foot of thefe cliffs, is walhed by the waves ; at low water the fea retires and leaves a dry fhore of a confiderable breadth, which has very little fand upon it, but is an hard, fmooth, flat rock, called by the inha- bitants the Scarr, and is in a manner overfpread with large, loofe, ragged Hones, fcattered about in great di- forder and confufion. This town was anciently called Streenfhall, and Ofwy, king of Northumberland held a council here 6? 1 H I R E. in the year 663, to determine the controverfy between thofe who kept Ealter after the Britifli manner, and thofe who obferved it according to the cuftom of the Romans, which Auguftine, the monk, had lately intro- duced. After the party for the firft had fpoken, the other in their anfwer affirmed, they kept Ealter in the manner of St. Peter, on whom Chrilt promifed to build his church, and who was in poiieffion of the keys of Heaven. The king hearing this, afked if it was true that Chrilt had thus fpoken to St. Peter ; which the ad- yerfe party allowing, the king fwore with a folemn oath, that he would not difoblige this porter of Heaven, left, when he came to the gates, he Uiould rememb- r him ; .md therefore eftabifhed the celebration of Euft^r after the manner of the Romans. There are mineral waters here which were formerly ' in great repute but have long fince been dififed. About the year 657, a monaftery was founded here by St. Hilda, dedicated to St. Peter. It was deftroyed in the Danilh war, but re-edified foon after the Conqueft, and repleniihed by William de Percy, with 3c/KdiJtine ' monks. In the time of Henry I. it became an abbey, was dedicated to St. Peter, and St. Hutfa, and valued ! at the diffblution, at four hundred and thirty feven pounds, two fhillings and nine-pene, pe~ annum. Here were formerly two hoigital^ , anf bcto/- peratus albus, lacleo fucco turgens C. B. Found in great abundance in Marton-woods, under Pinno-moor, in Craven. Mountain crawfoot-cranes-bill. Geranium batrachioides montanum no/lras. Found in the mountainous meadows and bufhes in the Weft-Riding. Mufked ctanes-bill, commonly called mufk, or muf- covy. Geranium mefchatium. Ger. Found growing com- mon in Craven. Mountain- x 6o Y O R K S Mountain-cudweed, or cats-foot. Gnaphalium mon- tanum album five pes catl. Found upon Ingleborough and other hills in the Weft-Riding. Baftard hellebore, with long, narrow, fharp pointed leaves. Helleborine foliis longis angufis acutis. Found under Bracken- brow near lngleton. Baftard hellebore, with a blackifti flower. Helle- lorine altera atro-rubente fore. C. B. Found in plenty on the fides of the mountains near Malham, four miles from Settle." Succory-leaved, mountain hawk-weed. Hieracium montamun cichorei folio nofras. In moift and boggy places, in fome woods about Burnley. Winter, or fquare barley, or bear-barley, called in the north country, beg. Hordeum polyfichon. J. B. This endures the winter, and is not fo tender as the common barley ; and is therefore fown inftead of it in the mountainous parts of this county, and all over the North. Lelly convally, or may-lilly: Lilium convallium. Ger. On Ingleborough and other hills. Moonwort. Lunaria minor. Ger. Found very large, and in great plenty on the tops of fome mountains near Settle. Rofe-bay willow-herb. Lyfimachia Chamanerion dicla latifolia. C. B. Found in the meadows near Sheffield, and divers other places. Yellow loofe ftrife, with a globular fpike or tuft of flowers. Lyfimachia lutea fore globofo. Ger. Found in feveral places in the Eaft-Riding of this county. Club-mofs, or Wolfs-claw. Mufcus clavatus five Lycopodium. Ger. Cyprus-mofs, or heath-cyprus. Mufcus cavatus foliis Cuprefft. C. B. Smaller creeping club-mofs, with erect heads. Mufcus terreflris repens, clavis fmgularibus foliofis ereclis. Upright fir-mofs. Mufcus ereElus abietiformis nobis. Seeding mountain mofs. Mufcus terreflris reclus minor polyfpermos. All thefe forts are found upon Ingleborough hill. The laft about fprings and watery places. The firft and third are common to molt of the moors in the north of England. * Yellow ftar of Bethlehem. Ornithogalum luteum. C. B. Found in the woods in the northern part of Yorkfhire, by the Tees-fide, near Greta-bridge and Brignall. Shrub-cinquefoil. Pentaphilloides fruEiicofa., Found on the fouth-bank of the river Tees, below a village called Thorp; and in many other parts of the county. Small rough cinquefoil. Pcntaphyllum parvum hirfu- iutn. J. B. Found in the paftures about Kippax, a village three miles diftant from PontefracT Common winter-green. Pyrola. Ger. Found plenti- fully on the moors fouth of Heptenftall, in the way to Burnley. Sharp-pointed winter-green, with ferrate leaves. Pyrola folio mucronato fcrato. C. B. Founded in Hafel-wood. Sweet- fmelling Solomon's-feal, with flowers on fingle foot-ftalks. Polygonatum foribus ex fmgularibus pediculis. J. B. On the borders of the fears, or cliffs, near Settle and Wharfe. Birds-eyn. Primula veris fore rubra. Ger. Found in the mountainous meadows near Ingleborough, and in feveral other moift and watery parts of this county. Winter-green, with chickweed flowers. Pyrola alfines fore Europaa. C. B. At the eaft end of Rambles-mear, near Helwick. Winter-green chickweed of Brafil. Pyrola alfines fore Br aft liana. C. B. Found near Gifborough and other places. The globe-flower, or locker-gowlons. Ranunculus ghbofus. Ger. Found plentif ully in moft parts of York- fhire, in mountainous meadows, and near water- courfes. Red currants. Ribes vulgaris fruclu rubro. Ger. Found in the woods, in the northern part of this country, particularly near Greta-bridge. Sweet mountain currents. Ribes alpmus dulcis. J. B. Found in many parts of this county. Rofewort. Rhodia radix omnium autorum. Found 3 HI R E. plentifully on the rocks on the north fide of Inglebo- rough-hill. The greater Englifh apple-rofe. Rofa fylvefris pomi* fera major nofras. Found frequently in the mountain-i ous parts of this county. Wild rofemary, or marfh holy-rofe. Rofnarinum Jyl- vefre minus nofras park. Found in mofi'es and moorifh grounds. The ftone-bramble, or rafpus. Rubus faxatilis. Ger; Found on the fide of Ingleborough, and other hills in the Weft-Riding. Bay leaved fweet willow. Salix folio laureo feu lata glabro adorato. Found by the water fide, in the moun- tainous parts of the Weft Riding. Round leaved mountainous dwarf willow. Salix pu- mila montana folio rotunda. J. B. Found on the rocks upon Ingleborough-hill, on the north fide, and in other parts of Yorkfhire. Mountain fengreen with heath-like leaves, and large purple flowers. Sedum alpinum ericoides cteruleum. • C. B. On the uppermoft rocks on the north fiie of Ingle- borough. Small yellow mountain-fengreen. Sedum minus al- pinum luteum nofras. Found in great plenty on the north fide of Ingleborough-hill, near the rivers and fprings. Small mountain fengreen, with jagged leaves. Se- dum alpinum trifido folio. C. B. Found on Ingle- borough, and many other hills in the narth part of this country. Small marfh-fengreen. Sedum purpureum prqtenfc. J. B. Found on the rocks near Ingleborough, in watery places. Broad-leaved rough field-lionwort, with a large flower. Sideritis arvenfs latifolia hirfuta fore luteo. Found in the Weft-Riding about Sheffield, and feveral other places among the corn. Giant throat-wort. Trachelium majus Bslgarum. Found in all parts of the county among the moun- tains. The lefTer meadow-rue. Theleclmm minus. Ger. Found very common on the rocks about Malham and Wharfe. Lunar violet, with an oblong wreathen cod. Thlafpi vel patius leucoium five lunaria vafculo fublongo intorto. Found on the fides of mountains, in moift places, and near fprings. Cloud-berries, knot-berries, or knout-berries. Vac- cinia nubis. Ger. Found growing plentifully on Hene- kel-hough, near Settle. Greek valerian, vulgarly called ladder to Heaven, or Jacob's ladder. Valeriana Graca. Ger. Found plen- tifully about Malham-cove, in the wood on the left hand. Common liquorice. Glycyrrhiza vulgaris, Ger. Cultivated for fale in many large gardens in Ponte- fraft. Remarks en the Sea-Coast of Yorkfhire. The fea-coaft of this county is one of the moft dangerous parts of the kingdom to fhips bound to different ports of England. The mouth of the Humber is very difficult for fhips to enter when the wind blows ftrong at Eaft, unlefs the pilot be well ac- quainted with the fhoals that lie fcattered about the mouth of that river. This difficulty is greatly in- creafed by the rapid current of the river; which, during the ebb, pours down with amazing velocity, and too often carries (hips on the fhoal. At the fame time .the fea runs very high occafioned by the wind's blowing directly againft the current. Ships running from the eaftward muft be careful of a fhoal called the Dreadful, which lies about three miles and a half almoft due eaft from the Spurn- head, and on which there is no more than fix feet at barometer. If a windmill about three miles to the northward of the Spurn-head be kept in a right line with the tower of Iflington church, the fhip will fail over Y O R K S HIRE. 16 over the middle of the fhoal. But if the two Iight- houfes upon the Spurn-head be kept both in one, the (hip will pafs fafely to the fouthward of the fhoal. A ftone bank ftretches out above half a mile from the fhore of the Spurn-head. A fmall diftance within the 6purn-head, is a fmall ifland called the Den, furround- ed by a fand, ftretching out about half a mile from the beach of the ifland. About two miles and a half north- eait from the Den is a ftioal called Trinity-fand, which is dry at low water. About fix miles above Trinity-fand, is Sunk-ifland, furrounded with a large bank of fand, v which is dry at low water, and the tail of it ftretching to the eaft ward, is near four miles long. About five miles above Sunk- ifland is Whitebooth road, where (hips ride in fafety, out of the violent current of the river. From Spurn-head the coaft lies north-weft-by-weft to Bridlington, or Burlington -bay, formed by a point of land, at the northern extremity, called Flamborough- head. About the middle of this bay is a fhoal called Smithick-fand, on which there is from two to ten feet water. This fand is about four miles long, three quar- ters of a mile broad, and about three miles and a half from the Ihore. It lies north-eaft and fouth-weft ; but there are two channels, one between the main land and the northern extremity of the fhoal, and the other at its fouthern extremity. The former is fomething more than a mile broad, and the latter a mile and a half : the firft has, however, the greater depth of water. Within this fand, fhips bound to Bridlington generally come to an anchor, it being very fafe riding, efpecially in nor- therly and wefterly winds. The northern extremity of this bay is called Flambo- rough-head ; on which there is a light-houfe, for the fafety of fnips in the night. Five leagues to the north of Flamborough-head, is Scarborough, where there is a pier for fhips ; and in the bay before the town they anchor in five fathoms water, about a mile from the fhore. The pier is one of the ■beft in England. Whitby, the laft fea-port in this county, is fituated about five leagues to the north ward of Scarborough. A great number of large fhips belong to this town, though the harbour is but indifferent ; the pier is indeed very capacious. Of the Inhabitants of Yorkfhire. This county, under the Romans was inhabited by the Brigantes ; and in the third diviiion of Britain by the emperor Conftantine, the northern part was calk Maxima Caefarienfis, of which this fhire was a confider- able part, the city of York being its capital. Under the Saxon Heptarchv, Yorkfhire belonged to the kingdo of Noi thumberiand, and was called the province ot Deira. The fharp and healthy air of this county has render- ed it remarkable for the great length of the lives of many of its inhabitants. At Dent, a village upon a fmall river of trie fame name, fouth-weft of Afkring, upon the borders o: Lancafhire, there were two perfons, the father and fon, who in 1664 were fummoned as witneiTes upon a trial at York affizes, when the father was above one hundred and thirty-nine years of age, and the fon upwards of one hundred. At Thirleby, near Helmefley, lived one Mary All ifon ; who, at the age of one hundred and fix yea r s, fpun a web of linen cloth, and lived to the age of one hundred and eight years. But a much more remarkable inftancc of longevity, was one Henry Jenkins, a native of the fame Riding of this county, who died at the age of one hundred and fixty-nine years. As there were no regifters old enough to prove the time of his birth, it was gathered from the following circumftances : He remembered the battle of Flodden-Field, fought between the Englifh and Scots in 1513, when he was twelve years old; feveral men in his neighbourhood, about one hundred years of age, agreed, that from their earlieft remembrance, he had been an old man ; and at York aflizes he was admitted to fwear to one hundred and forty years mem' ry. He frequently fwam rivers after he was an hundred yeais old, and he retained his fight and hearing to his death. He had been a fiiherman an hundred years, but to- wards the latter end of his days he begged. A mo- nument was erected to his memory by fubfeription, at Bolton, on the river Swale, in 1 743, on which is an infeription, purporting that he was one hundred fixty- nine yeais old, and was interred there on the fixth of December, 1670. Members of Parliament for Yorkfhire. This county fends thirty members to parliament, two knights of the fhire for the county, two citizens for the city of York, and two burgefles for each of the follow- ing boroughs, Aldborough, North-Allerton, Burrow- bridge, Beverley, Headon, Knarefborough, Malton, Pontefract, Richmond, Rippon, Scarborough, Thitflc, and Kingfton upon Hull. T £ D U B. H A M- C 162 ) 160 tarn* of " D U R H THIS county is bounded by Northumberland on the north, by the river Tees, which divides it from Yorkfhire, on the fouth ; by the German Ocean on the eaft, and by parts of the counties of Weftmore- land, Cumberland, and Northumberland on the weft. It is of a triangular figure, meafures thirty-nine miles in length, from eaft to weft, thirty five in breadth, from north to fouth, and one hundred and feven miles in cir- cumference. It is divided into four wards, or wakes, and fifty-two parifhes, in which are one city, feven market-towns, two hundred and twenty-three villages, about fifteen thoufand nine hundred and eighty four houfes, and feventy-nine thoufand nine hundred and twenty inhabitants. It lies in the province of York, and forms a diocefe of itfelf. RIVERS. In this county there are fixteen rivers, the chief of which are the Tees and the Were. The Tees rifes on the borders of Cumberland, and running eaft-fouth-eaft, receives, befides feveral lefs confiderable ftreams, the Laden, the Hade, the Lune, the Bauder, and the Skern ; then running north-north-eaft, it falls into the German Ocean. The Were is formed of three fmall ftreams, called the Killop, the Willop, and the Burdop, burns rifing near one another in the weft part of this county, and within three miles of the head of the Tees. The Were thus formed, runs eaftward, and receives the Gaunlefs, and feveral fmaller ftreams, and then by many windings it directs its courfe north-eaft, and paffing by the city of Durham, falls into the German Sea at Sunderland, a confiderable port and market town of this county. Near the conflux of the river Tees and Bauder, about midfummer 1689, there happened an eruption of water, which, inforcing its paflage from below, carried away a quantity of earth, that left a chafm of one hundred and fixty yards long, eighty yards broad, and fix or feven deep, choaked up both rivers, and killed great quantities of fifti. The meadows over which the flood pafled, were all fpoiled for a time, by the mud which it left behind. Remat is en the Inland Navigation of Durham. There are only two rivers navigable in this county, the l ees and the Were ; for with regard to the Tyne, which feparates this county from that of Northumberland, it will be confidered in our furvey of that fhire. The Tees is navigable fox veflels of confiderable bur- den to Stockton, and for boats to the influx of the Skern, on which the town of Darlington is fituated. The Tees might be eafily made navigable to Bernard's-caftle, if the trade of that part of the county would anfwer the expence. The mouth of the Were receives large {hips, great numbers of which load with coals of Sunderland ; and the river is navigable for keels to Lumley-caftle, where great quantities of coal, reckoned equal to any in the kingdom, are dug, and fent down the river to Sunder- land. Small boats paffing up to Durham, might eafily be extended farther. Air, Soil, and Natural Productions. The air of Durham is healthy, and though fharp in the weftern parts, is nevertheless mild and pleafant to- wards the fea, the warm vapours of which mitigate the cold ; which, in a fituation fo far north, mull be fevere in the winter feafon. The foil is alfo different ; the weftern parts are mountainous and barren ; the reft of the county is fruitful, and, like the fouthern counties, beau- tifully diverfified with meadows, paftures, corn-field3 and woods. It abounds with inexhauftible mines of lead and iron, and particularly coal, called Newcaftle coal, from Newcaftle upon Tyne, a large borough town in Northumberland, the port where it is fhipped to fup- ply the city of London ; and the greateft part of Eng- land. The rivers abound with fifti, particularly falmon, known in London by the name of Newcaftle falmon ; and thefe two articles include the whole traffic of the place. The coal trade of this county is one great nur- fery for feamen ; and the ports of Durham fupply the royal navy with more men than any other in the kingdom. Remarks on the Husbandry of Durham. The foil, in general, is a gravelly clay and loam ; lets from ten (hillings to fifteen the arable. Farms from thirty pounds to two hundred. The courfe of crops, generally three to a fallow. For wheat, they plough three times, fow two bufhels, or two and an half if old ploughing, the latter end of O&ober and be- ginning of November, and gain from twenty to twenty- five bufhels per acre. For barley, they plough three times, fow two bufhels, and two and an half, in April, or beginning of May, and gain from three quarters to five per acre: They plough once for oats, fow four bufhels on an acre in March, and gain from thirty to forty bufhels in return. They plough once for beans, fow four and four and a half bufhels broad-caft in Fe- bruary, never hoe them, and gain from twenty to twenty- five bufhels, ufe them for horfes, bealfs and calves, and fplit or ground for horfes and calves. They plough once for peafe, fow four bufhels, and four and a half (never hoe them) in March, and gain from thirty to thirty-five bufhels. They plough three times for rye, fow two bufhels and one fourth, and gain from forty to fifty bufhels per acre; it is fown in October, or fpring rye in March. For turnips, they plough three times, never hoe them, but value a crop from one pound ten fhillings, to three pounds per acre, and ufe them for fheep, for oxen, cows, and calves. They pare and burn for rape, and plough once after it ; fow it in July and Auguft, never feed it, but gain from forty to fifty bufhels an acre; it is fucceeded by maflin, i. e. wheat and rye mixt. They fow twelve pounds of clover on an acre, with oats, barley, or bigg, gain about three tons of hay ; reckon they have better crops after mowing than feeding ; many keep it two or three years in mowing, and gene- rally fow wheat after it. In manuring, they lay three chaldrons of lime (thirty- two bufhels to the chaldron), for which they give feven fhillings ; one fhilling and eight-pence a mile for lad- ing, and two fhillings and fix-pence an acre fpreading; expence of pairing from eleven to thirteen fhillings per acre, of burning, three fhillings and fixpsnce; ditto, of fpreading, one lhilling and eight-pence. They ftack their hay in the fields, nc?ver chop ftub- bles, nor fold fheep, except upon turnips ; of afhes they lay from fifteen to twenty five Lads on 2m acre : town dung on grafs and arable, twenty load an acre ; they feldom marie, never on grafs ground, nor ufe any com- ports. Good grafs land lets from twenty to thirty (hillings per acre, for vaft numbers of beaftsj but more dairying, 3 butter I D U R butter being the commodity of the county ; allow an acre and rood of grafs to each ox or cow, and five fheep to an acre. The farmers never lay any manure at all on land of this value. Their breed of horned cattle, chiefly Holdernefs and Dutch ; the fize of their hogs, from twenty to twenty-five ftone, fourteen pounds weight to the ftone. Of oxen, from fixty to one hundred and twenty ftone ; reckon the produce of a cow at fix pounds, feven fhillings. They give, in May, June, and July, from five to nine gallons of milk per day. Profit on a beaft of fifty ftone, four pounds, if fold before Martinmas, but more if kept till winter; reckon more profit from breeding than buying in, if the ftock is good. They allow four or fix hogs to be maintain- ed by ten cows : calves fuck ten days, or a fortnight; give them fkim milk, and fome give linfeed cakes. A dairy maid will take care of ten cows. If a cow calves early, her winter hay will coft two pounds, ten fhil- lings ; from that to three pounds they reckon the joift of a cow in winter ; in fummer, from twenty-five fhillings to thirty-five, and forty fhillings. They reckon an acre of the above land will fat an ox of fifty ftone* Never keep their cows in the houfe, till after calving ; and if the weather is good, turn them out again in a month or fix weeks : this is in cafe they calve about Candlemas, which is the moft ufual time for breeding ftock. Value of an ox-hide, from fifteen fhillings to two pounds ten fhillings ; the Lancafhire hides will give more. The fize of their flocks, two hundred fheep in one hundred acres of feeding land to a proportionable ftock of other kinds ; profit per fheep, eight fhillings ; reckon in winter, that one acre of good turnips will keep twenty fheep, the average fleece from fix to feven pounds weight. To one hundred acres of arable land, they keep four horfes and fix oxen, and drive two horfes and two oxen in a plough ; do an acre a day ; reckon the annual expencc of a horfe, four pounds, five fhil- lings a year, the fummer's joift of one pound, ten fhillings ; in winter, two pounds, fifteen fhillings ; feed their oxen, in winter, with oat and barley ftraw, &c. They break up their ftubbles in September and Octo- ber, give four fhillings and fix-pence, and five fhillings an acre for ploughing, never chop ftraw into chaff, but mix their chaff with the corn for horfes. Hire of a cart, three horfes, and driver, from four to five fhillings a day. Average of hay per ton, for feven years, from twenty- five fhillings to thirty. In the hiring and flocking farms, they reckon four hundred pounds fufficient for one hun- dred a year, half grafs, half arable; fome of the particu- lars as follows : Half a year's rent in hand, 50/. Seed for fowing down fpring corn, 12 /. JOT. To the management of fallow, 13/. 10 f. Implements, 40/. They give from thirty-three to thirty-feven years pur- chafe for land. Tythe compofition for wheat in general, 2 s. in the pound rent ; employment of the poor at fpinning, earn from \d. to yd. a day ; young and old, at knitting, from \d. to 6d. Moftly drink tea. They carry their corn from five to feven miles com- puted. Leafes from feven to twenty-one; terms from three to five years ; lives none. ^ Surveyor's rate, %d. per acre. Price of LABOUR. In harveft, men, is. and If. 6d. a day; women, gd. and 1 s. In hay-time, men, is. women, 2d. In winter, men, 10 d. They feldom reap by the acre: Mowing fpring corn, they have if. 6d. an acre. Grafs, is. Ditching per rood, 4^. to 8 d. Threfhing wheat, 3 d. a bufhel. Barley, from 1 s. to 1 s. 3 d. per quarter. Oats, from 10 d. to is. zd. ditto. Beans, from 10 d. to if. ditto. HAM. 16 Water-furrowing with a fpade, \d. a rood; Filling carts, from if. 6d. to is. per fcore. Headman's wages, 15/. a year. Plough lads, 6 d. a day. Boy of ten or twelve years old, \d. Dairy-maid's wages, from 5/. to 61. a year. Other maids, 3/. to 5 /. ditto. Value of a man's board, wafhing and lodging, 3f. 6d t a week. Maids, ditto, 5/. or 61. per annum. Their hours of labour in a day, from eight to fix, but few work fo long. In winter, from nine to five. Rife of labour within ten years, 3 d. per day. Great improvements are however made in this method of hufbandry, by a very ingenious gentleman. He takes but two crops to a fallow, gives five or fix ploughings for wheat, firft and fecond, from angle t« angle, and harrowing after each, fows in September, or as foen as poflible in October, and gets thirty bufhelson an acre in general, better in quality than the common ; he ploughs as often for barley, unlefs after turnips or cabbages, and fows two bufhels of feed ; fows it the latter end of March, or early in April, and generally reaps five quarters. He fows North Frizeland kind of oats, three or three and a half bufhels to an acre, in March, and gains fifty bufhels or better upon good loam, and has had eighty bufhels per acre. He ploughs three times for beans ; fows three bufhels, or three and a quarter broad-caft in February, and gains from twenty-eight to thirty-five bufheis ; feldom grows any peafe, unlefs to plough in for manure, and then fows three bufhels in February. Gives the fame earths for rye, as wheat gains, from forty to fifty bufhels per acre, and which weighs three or four pounds more a bufhel than the common ; it is little uled, as the poor people will fcarcely buy it. For turnips he ploughs five times, hoes them in June, July, and Auguft, and values them from four to five pounds per acre, ufes them for fat oxen, fheep, calves, and cows (except milch.) This gentleman has fed many fheep upon rape, and the crop anfwered extremely well ; he thinks the better for it, as he obferved it yielded moli where it was neareft eat ; he had eighty fheep upon feventeen acres, and fold twenty of thofe fheep for forty guineas ; he had twelve laft of feed upon thofe acres, eighty bufhels to the laft. He never keeps clover but one year, and ploughs in the after-grafs, which he gets a good crop of wheat after ; he has had pretty good crops of tares, and extreme good oats after them; the tares fown after barley. His general practice is to lay two loads of dung upon an acre, befides two chaldrons of lime ; of foap-afhes he lays from twenty-five to thirty load per acre, alfo com- mon afhes. Sometimes lays forty loads of town-dung per acre, and has laid the fame of clay on an acre of gravelly land in ploughing, which has anfwered ex- tremely well. The compoft he has chiefly made ufe of is a mixture of lime, virgin earth, dung of all kinds, with foap-afhes j and to take care that the lime and horfe litter do not lie together, (as it will be apt to fire) it muft be turned as foon as the lime is found dead, otherwife it will run together and cement ; this kind of compoft fhould be turned at leaft three times, if you lay it upon grafs anywife moffy. He fhould recommend Du HameFs cultivator, or five-coultered plough, pro- perly fet for the foil, to be run over the ground before you lay the compoft on. N. B. This compoft has anfwered and improved all the different foils this gentle- man has tried it on, particularly ftony, gravelly clay. From being let at ten fhillings per acre, it is let at one pound, two fhillings and fix-pence per acre. He has obferved, that land in general that wants draining has a Jlratum of clay, otherwife the water would not be kept up fo near the furface, (except where it is a peat-earth). The firft thing to be done is to take the proper levels, and confult from whence comes the origin of your fprings. A main drain then to be properly placed, and fide drains from that main drain ; all thefe to be cut into the clay, which you will generally have before 64 D U R before you, are three quarters deep. The drains at the top fhouM be at lea it two feet wide, at the bottom three inches, having proper fpades for that purpofe; he would chufe to till them all with Hone, many do it with fmall faggoting, others with fods, the grafs-fide downwards, tan cut like a wedge; this latter is what is commonly ufed, r but he has found by experience they foon decay. N. B. fiean-ftiaw, or any ft raw, laid upon the ftones, before the drains are filled up. Fxpence, three-pence, and three-pence half-penny a rood for digging ; two-pence a rood for filling with ftone, and filling up the level; three-pence halfpenny for lading and getting of ftone, if it is got out of a quarry ; it will be lefs, if the ftone is jet upon the land. He has always kept to the Holdernefs and Dutch breed of home J cattle; he has had oxen of one nun dred and thirty-five ftone, fourteen pounds weight to the ftone ; he generally fells his three year olds, after win- tering, at twenty-one and twenty -two pounds per beaft; cives his calves new milk for two months, then old milk, and bean -meal till they are turned to grafs, or feed thtm with good lettuce, lucerne, &c. He has found that one acre cf good turnips will keep twenty fheep the winter, but that one acre of cabbages will keep above fifty. The weight of his wool, per lhtep, generally runs to twelve andfourteen pounds weight, that are fat, the firft year clip ten pounds. This gentleman's method of laying arable to grafs, is firft to reduce the moulds as fine as poffible by a fallow, fnwing it down with barley or bigg ; the latter he would chufe in moor foils, after the corn is come up; fows eight bufhels of common grafs-feeds, two pounds v. eight of cow-grafs, ditto of rib-grafs, ditto of yellow trefoil, and roll it the firft dry feafon. City and Market Towns. ■ The city is Durham, and the market towns are Stock- ton, Hartlepool, Aukland Bifhops, Darlington, Barnard- Caftle, Marwood, and Sunderland. We crofled the river Tees to Durham, and proceeded on our tour to Stockton, fituated about two miles from the mouth of this river, and two hundred and twenty miles from London. It is a corporation town, governed by a mayor and aldermen, and is one of the four ward towns of the county. It is well built, is a place of great refort and bufinefs ; and is of late fo confiderably increaf- cd in its trade and the number of its inhabitants, that a church has been erected in the place of a little old chapel. The river is capable of bearing ftiips of good burden at this place, but the current is frequently dan- gerous. For the management of • the port there are a collect- v of the cuftoms, and other inferior officers.- The port < f Stockton is a member of the port of Newcaftle, as appears by a cominiilion returned into the Exchequer hi the reign of king Charles II. arid by a report made in the third year of the reign of king George II. of the di- menfions of its three lawful quay's for fhipping and land- ing" goods.' i Here is a good trade to London for lead, butter, and bacon 5 and the ale here is much admired by thelovers of that liquor. The bifhop of Durham is lord of the manor, and its bifhops had formerly a houfe here. Stockton has a weekly market' on Saturday, 2nd an annual fair July the eighteenth, for toys, &c. In the neighbourhood is a courfe where there are fre- quent horfe-races. - At Norton, a village fomewhat to the north of this town, was an ancient collegiate church, dedicated to St. Mary, confifting of eight prebendaries, or portionifts, before the year 1227, and then in the patronage of the hifhop of Lurham. It was valued upon the diflolution at thirty-four pounds, thirteen fhillings and four-pence, per annum. At Gretham, a village between Stockton and Hartle- pool, Robert de Stichill, bifhop of Durham, in the year 1262 built and endowed an hofpital for a mafter and brethren, dedicated to St. Mary and St. Cuthbert. Irs yearly revenues were valued upon the diilblution at 4 H A M. ninety-feven pounds, fix (hillings and three pence, clear # It is ftill in being, and the mallerfhip of it in the gift of the bifhop of Durham. Hartlepool, the next town we vifited, ftands.on a little promontory, fix or feven miles above the mouth of the Tees ; and is encompafftd on all fides but the weft by the fea. It is a famous ancient corporation, with a very fafe harbour ; governed by a mayor and alderman, with other fubordtnate officers. It depends chiefly on the fifhing trade, and its hr.rbour, which is much fre- quented by the colliers puffing to and from Newcaftle, particularly in ftrefs of weather. There are feveral offi- cers of the cuftoms belonging to the harbour. From this place the fhore affords a delightful profpeel, to thofe who fail by a pleafant variety of corn fields, mea- dows,villages, and a variety of other views, which continue uninterrupted for the length of fifteen miles, till a paf- fage opens for the river Were. Here was formerly an ancient monaftery, called Heorthy, founded upon the firft converiton of the Nor- thumbrians to Chriftianity, about the year 640, as lome fuppofe, by a religious woman, named Hieu ; or accord- ing to others, by St. ! ega. At this place was aifo a houfe of Grey friars, founded before the jcr 1275 ; but by whom, or what its revenues were at the diflolution, we have no account of. Here is a weekly market on Monday, and four an- nua! fairs, viz. May the fourteenth, Auguft the twenty- fiift, October the ninth, and November the twenty- fevc-nth, for toys, &c. From hence we patted on to the city of Durham, ori- ginally by the Saxons called Dunholme, a word com- pounded cf Dun, a hill, and holme, an ifland in a river, and expnil.ve of its fituation upon a hill, almoft lur- rcunded by the river Were. T he Saxon name Dun- holme, was changed by the Normans to Durcfmc 3 which was afterwards corrupted into the prefent name Durham. This city is two hundred and fixty-two miles from London, and is laid to have been firft incorporated by king Richard I. and was anciently governed by bailiffs, appointed by the bifllops, and afterwards by an alder- man and twelve burgeUlb. Queen Elizabeth gave it a mayor, aldermen, and common council : but it is now governed under a cnarter procured by bifhop Crew, of king Charles II. by twelve aldermen, twelve common council men, a recorder, town clerk, and other officers, who can hold a court-leet and court-baron within their city, under the ftile of the bifhop, for the time b ing. They keep alfo a court inftituted to regulate diforders at fairs, called a pye powder court, fiom pied, foot, and poulder, dufty, becaufe it was held only during the fair, and made its determinations after a fummary examina- tion, before the duft was fliaken from the feet of the fuitors. The fairs pay about twenty pounds a year toll, to the bifhop or his leflee. The bifhop of Durham is a temporal prince, bein^ earl of Sadbergh, a fmall town near"Sto'tktoii, which he holds by baronv ; he is flier iff paramount of this county, and appoints his deputy, who makes up his audit to him, without accounting to the Exchequer. He is alfo as count palatine, lord of this city* and appoints all officers of juftice, and other in- ferior magiltrates. The. fituation of this city is fo pleafant and healthy, and the country in which it fiands fo plentiful, that it is much frequented by the neighbouring gentry. It is furrounded with a fortified wall, and is about one mile long, and one mile broad ; the form of it is compared to that of a crab, the market place refembling the body, and the ftreets the claws. The principal building in it is the cathedral, which is dedicated to Chrift and the Virgin Mary. , It is a magnificent pile, four hundred and eleven feet long, and eighty broad, with three fpacious ifles, one in the middle, and one at each end ; that in the middle is one hundred and feventv feet long, the eaftern i fie is one hundred and thirty-two feet long, and the weftern one hundred feet. In the weftcrn ifle was a chapel of the Vrrgin Mary, called Galilee; the outfide of this chapel was adorned with two handfome fpires, covered with lead, the towers of which are ftill ftanding. In the north tower there were four large bells, D U R H A M. bells, three of which, foon after the reformation, were added to three in the middle tower, but they have been fince eaft into eight. The eaftern ifle was formerly called the Nine Altars, becaufe in the front facing the church, there were fo many erected ; that is, there were four in the north part of the ifle, four in the fouth, and one in the middle. The middle one, which was dedi- cated to St. Cuthbert, the patron of the church, was the moft beautiful, and near it was a rich fhrine of that faint. The whole building is ftrongly vaulted, and fupported by large pillars. The wainfcot of the choir is well wrought, the organ large and good, and the font of marble. There is a handfome fcreen at the entrance into the choir, which is one hundred and fevcnteen feet long, and thirty-three broad. Many of the windows are very curious, particularly the middle window, to the eaft, which is called the Catharine Wheel, or St. Catharine's Window; it comprehends all the breadth of the choir, and is compofed of twenty- four lights ; in the fouth end of the church was a window called St. Cuthbert's, in which was painted the hiftory of the life and miracles of that faint ; on the north fide was a third window, on which the hiftory of Jofeph was painted, and which was therefore called Jofeph's window. In the chapel called Galilee, the women, who were not allowed to go farther up than a line of marble, by the fide of the font, ufed to hear divine fervice, and it then contained fix- teen altars, for the celebration of the mafs, but it is now ufed for holding the confiftory court. The chapter- houfe, in which fixteen bifhops are interred, is a ftately room feventy-five feet long, and thirty-three broad, with an arched roof of ftone, and a beautiful feat at the upper end, for the inftalment of the bifhops. The decorations of this church are faid to be richer than thole of any other church in England, it having iuffered lefs by the alienation of its revenues, than any other cathedral. King Henry VIII. eftablifhed the pre- fent endowment of this church, for a dean, twelve pre- bendaries, twelve minor canons, a deacon, fub-deacon, fixteen lay finging men, a fchool matter, ufher, mafter of the chorifters, a divinity reader, eight almfmen, eigh- teen fcholars, ten chorifters, two vergers, two porters, two cooks, two butlers, and two facriltans. This cathedral is adorned with a fine cloyfter on the fcuth-fide, formerly glazed with painted glafs ; on the eaft fide is the chapter-houfe, the deanery, and a build- ing called the Old Library; on the weft fide is the dor- mitory, and under that are the treafury and fong houfe; on the north fide is the new library, which is a large lightfome building, begun by dean Sudbury, on the fite of the old common refectory of a convent. Befides the cathedral there are fix parifh churches, three of which Hand in the principal or middle part of the town, and the other three in the fuburbs. Thofe in the town are St. Nicholas, or the City Church, which ftands in the market place, St. Ofwald's commonly called Elvet Church, and St. Margaret's, called Crofs-gate Church, which is a parochial chapel to St. Ofwald's. Thofe in the fuburbs are St. Giles's, commonly called Gilly-gate Church, St. Mary's the Great, commonly called North Bailey Church, and St. Mary's the Lefs, called South Bailey Church ; St. Mary's the Great is alfo called Bow Church, becaufe before it was rebuilt its fteeple Hood on an arch croffing the ftreet. South of the cathedral is the college, a quadrangular pile of building, inclofing a fpacious court ; it confifts atprefentof houfes for the prebendaries ; and the greateft part of it has been either new built, or very much im- proved fince the reftoration. Oppofite to the college gate, upon the eaft fide, is the exchequer ; at the weft end was the gueft-hall, for the entertainment of ftran- gers, and near it the granary, and other offices of the convent. On the nort?h fide ©f the cathedral is the col- lege fchool, with a houfe for the mafter ; and between the church-yard and what is called the caftle, or the bifhop's palace, is an area, called the Palace Green ; to the weft of this is the (hire hall, where the affizes and feffions are held for the county, and near it is a fine li- brary, built by doctor Cofin, who was bifhop of this fee in the time of Charles II, and the exchequer built by doctor Nevil, who was bifhop afterwards. In the ex- chequer are the offices belonging to the county palatine court. On the eaft fide of the cathedral is an hofpital, built and endowed by bifhop Cofin ; and there are two fchools, one at each end of it, founded by bifhop Lang- ley, and new built by bifhop Cofin. On the north fide of the cathedral is the caftle, which' afterwards became the bifhop's palace ; it was .built by William the Con- queror, and the outer gate of it is now the county gaol. The other public buildings of this city are the tol- booth, by which may be underftood the cuftom-houfe, which ftands near St. Nicholas's church ; the crofs, and a conduit, both in the market place; there are alfo two ftone bridges over the river Were. The bifhopric of Durham was anciently a part of the country inhabited by the Brigantes ; upon the eftablifh- ment of the Saxon heptarchy it became a part of the kingdom of Northumberland, and was one of the counties which, being on the fouth fide of the Tine, were called Deira, to diftinguifh them from the northern divifionof the kingdom of the Northumbers, known by the name of Bernicia. Soon after the Saxons were converted to Chriftianity, this county was given by their kings to St. Cuthbert, bifhop of Lindisfern, an ifland in the county of Northumberland, now known by the name of Holy Ifland, and to his fucceflbrs for ever; the monkifh writers therefore called this county the Patri- mony of St. Cuthbert, in the fame ferafe as the Romifh ecclefiaftical ftate is to this day called the Patrimony of St. Peter. The Danes and Normans confirmed this grant of the Saxon kings, and added feveral other liber- ties and privileges to the church of St. Cuthbert. In the reign of William the Conqueror, one Walcher, a native of Lorrain, being bifhop of Durham, bought the earl- dom of Northumberland of the king, and then affirm- ing the office of a fecular judge, fat in court, and wich unlimited authority determined all caufes at his pleafure. This is fuppofed to have been the origin of the tem- poral power of the bifhops of Durham, and upon this purchafe it is fuppofed to have been made a county palatine. The bifhops of Durham, as counts palatine, have borne in their feals a knight, armed on horfeback, bran- difhing a fword with one hand, and holding out the arms of the bifhopric in the other. The common people infilling on their privileges, have refufed to march into Scotland in time of war, pretending that they were Halwerk men , that is, men bound to do nothing but holy works, that they held their lands to defend the body of St. Cuthbert, and that they were not to ferve out of the confines of the bifhopric, either for the king or for the bifhop. King Edward I. feized the prero- gatives of one of thefe bifhops, and took away many of the privileges of the fee, fome of which however the fuc- ceeding bifhops recovered, and fo great was their power even after its abridgment by king Edward I. that it be- came a maxim, ghticquid rex habet extra comitatum Dunelmenfem epifcopus habet intra, n 'ifi aliqua fit conceffio aut prafcriptio in contrarium^ i. e. ' Whatever prerogative the ' king has without the county of Durham, the bifhop ' has within it, unlefs there be fome conceffion or pre- ' fcription to the contrary.' Though the canons forbad any clergyman to be prefent when judgment of blood was given, yet the bifhop of Durham might on thofe occafions fit in court in his purple robes, whence came the old faying, Solum Dunehnenfe Jiola jus elicit it enfe. The bifhop of Durham had power to call a parliament, and to create barons to fit in it, of which parliaments, and the fubfidies granted by them, the ancient rolls of Durham give an account. The bifhop had alfo power to raife taxes, and to coin money : the courts were kept in his name, he appointed all judges and juftices of the peace, and all writs ran in his name. All recognizances entered upon the bifhop's clofe rolls in his chancery, and made to him or in his name, were as valid within this county, as thofe made to the king were in other coun- ties ; and the bifhop had a regifter of writs of as much authority, as that in the king's courts. They who alienated freehold lands without his leave, were obliged J U to i66 D U R to Cue to him for a pardon, which he might grant not only for intrufions and trefpafles, but alfo for felonies, rapes, and other crimes. He had power to grant li- cences for building chapels, founding chauntries and hofpitals, for making boroughs and corporations ; he alfo granted markets and fairs, created officers by patent, either for life or during his pleafure ; but thele grants were valid no longer than the life of the bifhop who made them, except they were confirmed by the dean and chapter. The bifhop had feveral forefts, chaces, parks, and woods in this county; he was lord admiral of the feas and other waters belonged to the palatinate, had his vice-admirals, his courts of admiralty, and his officers of beaconage, and commiffioners of water paffages; he directed commiffioners of array ; a great part of the lands in the palatinate belonging to him, and was held of the fee in capite ; to him belonged all moors and waftes, and he had copyhold and hallmot courts, and the tenure of the lands is much the fame to this day : the lands, goods, and chatties of fuch as were convicted of treafon, fell to the bifhop, and he ftill claims all forfeitures upon outlawries and felonies. Such were the privileges of the bifhops of Durham, when they were abridged by a ftatute of the twenty-feventh year of the reign of king Henry VIII. which in effect ftripped them of their pa- latine power, particularly that of granting pardons, creat- ing judges, and making out judicial writs and indict- ments; but the bifhops and their temporal chancellors were ffill permitted to act as jufticesof the peace. In the reign of king Edward VI. this bifhopric was difiblved, and the parliament gave all its revenues and immunities to the crown ; but queen Mary repealed this act, and reftored the fee to the ltate in which king Henry the Eighth left it. As this county was a kind of principality, diftinct from the reft of the kingdom, it never fent reprefenta- tives to parliament till the reign of king Charles II: The city of Durham owes its oiigin to the monks of Lindisfern, a monaftery in a fmall ifland fouth-eaft of Berwick upon Tweed, a borough town of Northumber- land, who being with Eardulfus, their bifhop, driven from their habitation by the Danes, retired firft to Chef- ter in the Street, a fmall town north of Durham, about the year 883, carrying with them the relics of their bifhop, f St. Cuthbert ; having continued there one hun- dred and thirteen years, they removed to this place about the year 995, and Jcpofited their relics under a fmall oratory, which they built ft-irk; and twigs, wattled together : this oratory, Aldwin, the bifhop, who then transferred the epifcopal fee from Chefter in the Street to Durham, arterwards improved into a cathedral. This cathedral William de Careleph, who was bifhop of Durham about the year 1083, pulled down, and be- gan a more ftately church, which was finifhed by his fuccefibrs. In a chapel, dedicated to St. Mary, at the weft end of this cathedral, ftands the tomb of Venerable Bede, a monk, and an ancient Britifh hiftorian, and over it hangs an old parchment fcroll, enumerating his virtues; where, among other encomiums it is faid, that he was otnnt major, C5° angelus in orbis angulo ; and it con- cludes with hat funt in fojja Beda Venerabilis ojfa. In this cathedral are ftill preferved many old records of Scot- land, the kings of that country having been very great benefactors to it. There was a provoft and fecular canons fettled in the cathedral fc>on after it was built, by Aldwin; but thofe being expelled by bifhop William de Cafilepho, with the confent of the Pope and King, a prior and convent of Benedictine monks were placed in their ftead, who continued till the general difiblution, when the bifhopric was valued upon the whole, at three thoufand one hundred and thirty-eight pounds, nine fhillings and eight pence, per annum, and two thoufand eight hundred and twenty- one pounds, one (hilling and five-pence clear, and the revenues of the church at one thoufand three hundred and fixty-fix pounds, ten fhillings and nine-pence, per annum. Durham fends two members to parliament; has a weekly market on Saturday, and three annual fairs, viz. March the thirty-firft, a three day fair; the firft day, for horned cattle, the fecond day for (heep and hogs, HAM. r>nd the third day, for horfes; Whitfur. -Tuefday, and September the fifteenth, for horfes, cattle, &c. Near this city may ftill be feen the remains of a Ro- man military way, which by fome writers is fuppofed to be part of the caufeway called Ikcnild Street, reaching from the mouth of the river Tine, to St. Davids in Wales. Cheller in the Street, a fmall town near Durham, in the way to Berwick, was called by the Saxons Eoncej-ren and is therefore fuppofed by Mr. Camden to have been the Roman Condercum, a ftation, ad lineam valli, where the Ndtitia tells us the firft wing of the Aftures kept garrifon ; others think the Condercum muff, have been nearer to the Puts Wall, and therefore fuppofe it to have been Sunderland. Jn the year 1057, Egelric, then bifhop of Durham, laid the foundation of a church here, in memory of the refidence ot his fucceffors, the monks of Lindisfern and their bifhop, in this place ; and while the work was carrying on, he dug up fo large a fum of money, fuppofed to have been buried by the Romans, that think- ing himfelf fufficiently enriched, he refigned his bifhopric, and retired to a monaftery at Petei borough, a city in the county of Northampton, where he had formeily been abbot, the buildings of which he very much improved and enlarged. He conftructed feveral other public woiks of great expence, particularly a caufeway from Deeping to Spalding, which are two market towns in Lincoln- shire, over a marfhy country, with feveral bridges in pro- per places. This caufeway is ftill called Egelric Road. Lanchefter, a town Handing nortn-weft of Durham, upon the Reman high-way called Wailing-ftreet, is fuppofed by Mr. Camden to be the Roman Longovicum, feveral inferiptions having been dug up here which fa- vour that opinion, and it appearing by many ruins, to have been fortified with a ftrong thick wall, and adorn- ed with temples, palaces, and other public buildings. Binchefter, a town upon the river Were, fouth-weft of the city of Durham, is fuppofed to have been the Vinovium of Antoninus, and the Binovium of Ptolemy. Here are ftill vifible the ruins of walls and caftles ; a variety of feals, urns, and other antiquities have been dug up in this place, particularly fome Roman coins, called Binchefter pennies; and two altars, one of them inferibed DEAB. MATRIB. Q. LO - - - CL. QVINTIANVS COS. V. S. L. M. and the other - TRIB. COHORI. CARTOV MARTI VICTQRI GENIO LOCI ET BONO EVENTVI ; the infeription being imperfect. In the channel of the Were, a little below Branfpeth, a village near Durham, there are many very large ftones, which are never covered but when that river over- flows, and over which if water is poured it will in a (hort time become brackifh ; and at Saltwater Haugh, not far diftant, there is a fait fpring in the middle of the Were, which is beft perceived in the fummer, when the water of the river is low, then it is feen bubbling up. The water of this fpring tinges all the ftones near it with, a red colour; it is as fait as any brine, and when boiled, it produces a great quantity of bay fait, though not fo palatable as common fait. Near Branfpeth there is a medicinal fpring ftrongly impregnated with fulphur, and between that fpring and the city of Durham is a Chalibeat water. Hunwick, a fmall village upon the Were, fouth-weft of Durham, is remarkable for its wells; the water of which, though very f\veet, is ftrongly impregnated with fulphur. It is in high repute, and much frequented. Lifhop Randal built an hofpital at Kepeyre, a village near Durham, f< r a mafter and brethren. It was dedi- cated to St. Giles ; and by the bounty of Hugh, Pu:acco, Pufar, or Pudfey, a fucceeding bifhop of Durham, and other benefactors was fo well endowed, as upon the difib- lution, to be rated at the yearly revenues oi one hundred and eighty-fix pounds and ten-pence ; in the whole at one hundred and fixty-feven pounds, two (hillings and eleven-pence clear. At Pinchale a village near Durham, there was an hermitage, which bifhop Randal gave before the year 1 1 28 to the monks of Durham, by whofe confent the holy man Godric, afterwards canonized, enjoyed the fame D U R fame years, and devoted the place particularly to the fervice of St. John the Baptift ; upon Godric's death, in the year 1 170, Come monies of Durham retired hither, and h^d an allowance made them towards their (upport, by Hugh, Biihop of Durham, in the time of Henry II. Henry de Putacco, fon to bifhop Hugh, about the year 1 196, having very much inereafed the revenues, a prior and monks of the Benedictine order, fubordinate to Durham, were fettled here. At the diiTolution this houfe confifted of a prior and eight monks, whofe yearly revenues were valued at one hundred and twenty-two pounds, fifteen {hillings and three-pence. At Sherburn, a village near Durham, there was an hofpital for lepers, founded by bifhop Hugh, and dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen. The yearly revenues of this houfe at t\:r Jiffolution amounted to one hundred and thirty-five pounds feven fhillings clear ; it then maintained frxty.--fi.ve lepers, befides a mafter and feveral priefts. It is ftill in being, and the mafterfhip is in the gift of the bifhop of Durham. At Lanchefter was a collegiate church for a dean and feven prebendaries, founded by Anthony Beck, bifhop of Durham, in the year 1283, and valued upon the diiTolution at forty-nine pounds, three millings and four pence, per annum. Richard duke of Gloucefter, afterwards Richard III. obtained licence from king Edward IV. in the feven- teenth year of his reign, to found a college in the caftle here, for a dean and twelve fecular priefts, ten clerks and fix chorifters, dedicated to Jefus Chrift, the Virgin Mary, St. Margaret and St. Ninian, and to pur- chafe lands, not exceeding the yearly value of four hundred marks ; but what was done in confequence of this grant does not appear. Here was an hofpital of St. John, valued upon the diiTolution at five pounds, nine millings and four-pence per annum clear ; and is yet in being, and the gift of the mafterfhip is in the lord chancellor of Great Britain. Six miles from Durham is Lumley-caftle, a feat be- longing to the earl of Scarborough, and pleafantly fituated in a fine park on the banks of the Were. The caftle is a large fquare building, with towers at each corner, and has a large court yard in the middle. It contains a great number of fpacious apart- ments, fome antique and others modern. The paint- ings are valuable, many of them reprefenting the ancef- tors of that noble family for fome centuries paft, in the habits of their time. It is reported that king James I. lodged in this caftle, when he entered England to take poffeflion of the throne ; and being fhewed by the bifhop of Durham a fine picture of the antient pedigree of this family, which carried much higher than his majefty thought credible, faid he had learned fomething during his flay in the caftle ; for he was before ignorant, that Adam's furname was Lumley. The park, befides the pleafantnefs of the fituation, has another and ftill more valuable circumftancc to recom- mend it; that of being molt full of veins of coaljn the county. This, together with a navigable river, by which the coals are carried down to Sunderland, ren- ders Lumley-park an inexhauftible mine of treafure to the family. Having viewed Lumley-Caftle, we continued our journey to Aukiand-Bifhops, formerly called North- Aukland, to diftinguifh it from another town called Aukland, both fituated in a diftrict of this county known by the name of Auklandfhire, from which they derive their name. Aukland is probably a corruption of Oak- land, the land of Oaks, this part of the country con- taining feveral fine forefts, and abounding with oak trees. This town afterwards becoming a market town, was called Market Aukland ; and is now called Bifhops Aukland, from a palace which belongs to the bifhops of this fee, who are likewife in pofleflion of the caftle and lordfirp. The palace was built, or rather improved, by Anthony Beck, bifhop of Durham, in the reign of Edward I. who incaftellated it, built the great hall, in which are feveral pillars of black marble fpecklcd with white, and added a lmall chapel, in which he placed a HAM. ft dean and fix prebendaries, allowing the quadrangle on the weft fide of the caftle for their habitation. The gate of the college, and the adjoining buildings, were erected by bifhop Booth, in the time of Henry V. By thefe feveral improvements it became a magnificent palace, and fo continued till it fell into the hands of Sir Archur Hafelrig, baronet, a commander for the parliament in the time of the civil war, who pulled moft of it down, and built a new houfe, with the materials. Upon the reftoration it came into the hands of Bifhop Cofin, who pulled down the houfe built by Hafelrig, and added a large apartment to what remained of the old building-, befides erecting a new chapel, in which he lies buried ; from which time it was called Bifhops-Aukland. He like- wife founded and endowed an hofpital for ever, for two married men, and two married women. This town is fituated near the conflux of the rivers Were and Gaunlefs, at the diftance of one hundred and eighty four miles from London. It is reckoned one of the beft towns in the county, the air being good, and the houfes in general well built. Here is a ftrong ftone bridge »ver the river Were, erected by bifhop Skirlaw, in the year 1400. Thechurch is a handfome edifice, and the mo- ther church to all the diftrict of Auklandfhire. It was anciently collegiate under the vicar ; but bifhop Beck, abovementioned, gave him the title of dean, with twelve prebendaries under him ; and Thomas Langley regulated them to an equality, reftored the folemnnity of their fervice, and got his appointment confirmed by Henry VI. This church has longfince ceafed to be collegiate • at the diflbl ution it had a dean, and eleven prebendaries. The deanery was rated at one hundred pounds, feven fhillings, and two-pence per annum, and the eleven prebends at feventy-nine pounds, fixteen (hillings, and eight-pence. This town has a weekly market on Thurfday, and four annual fairs, viz. Afcenfion day, for horned cattle, fwine, and all forts of wares; the day following for fheep andhorfes; Corpus -Chrifti day, for cattle; and Thurfday before October the tenth, for fheep, horfes, and cattle of all forts. From Aukiand-Bifhops, we proceeded to Darlington, fituated upon the river Skern, over which it has a lone ftone bridge, two hundred and forty-three miles from London. This is one of the four ward towns in the county of Durham, and confifts of feveral long ftreets, which, not being paved, are in the winter very dirty. It has a fpacious market place, a free fchool, and a hand Tom? church, with a tall fpire. This is one of the thret churches appointed to receive the fecular priefts when the monks entered into their places in the church of Durham. By being thus made collegiate of a dean an/ four prebendaries, it was expofed to be aleniated in th» time of Edward VI: and a fmall penfion only wat referved out of it to the minifter. Here were likewife charity lands, in feveral places, which were partly affin- ed for the maintenance of the free fchool. Here are ,° or were, not long ago, fome remains of an epifcopal houfe, which being rather a burden to the fee, than any conveni - ence to the bifhops, has been a long time neglected. Darlington is a poft town, and a great thoroughfare in the road from Berwick to London. It is one of the moft confiderable places in the north of England, for the manufacture of linen, particularly that fort called Huck- aback, ufed for table cloths and napkins, of which great quantities, fome ten , quarters wide, are fent to London, and other places. There is alfo a finer fort of cloth made here, fome of fourteen fhillings a yard. The workmen employed in this manufacture earn from ten-pence to two fhillings and fixpence a day, and wo- men and children proportionably. One mafter manufac- turer employs above fifty looms, and afierts that he could eafily fet more to work, and employ numerous w omen and children, if the idle part of the poor in the town could be perfuaded to turn induftrious. Here is a weekly market on Monday, and four annual fairs, viz. Eafter Monday, Whitfun-Monday, Monday fortnight after Whitfun-Monday, and November the twenty-fecond, for cattle horfes and fheep. At Oxenhall, a hamlet between Darlington and the Tees, are three large deep pits full of water, called Hell - 2 kettles, D U R II A M. kettles, and by the common people thought to have no bottom. Some fuppofe thefe pits to have been funk by an earthquake ; becaufe, from an ancient book intitled the Chronicle of Tinmouth, it appears that on Chrilt- mas-day, in the year 1 179, the earth at this place rofe to a great height above the level, in which ftate it con- tinued till the evening, and then finking down with a horrid noife was fwallowed up, and left a pit full of water, which has continued ever fince. The people here have an opinion that thefe pits communicate with the river Tees, and with each other, by means of fub- terraneous pafiages. This opinion Mr. Camden feems to have adopted, and as a proof of the fact, he relates, that one Cuthbert Tonftall, a bifhop of Durham, having put a goofe, which he marked for the purpofe, into one of thefe wells, found it again in the river Tees. This ftory however is not now credited, and by a later account of the pits it appears, that the depth of the deepeft is not above thirty yards ; the moft probable opinion feems to be, that they are old coal pits, rendered ufelefs by the rifing of water in them, which is always cold ; though Ivlr. Camden fays it is hot. It is remarkable that the pits are always full to the brim, which is upon the lame level with the river Tees, there feems therefore to be good reafons for believing, that the water in the pits is fupplied from the river, whether the paffage of com- munication would permit a goofe to go through it or not; nor does this communication make it neceffary that the pits fhould be deeper than they are. Prefcbridge, or Prefbrigg, a village upon the Tees, weft of Darlington, is fuppofed by Dr. Gibfon to have been originally called Prieft-bridge, either from two neighbouring priefts who built a bridge of ftone over the river here, inftead of a wooden bridge which they found there, or from fome priefts who were appointed to offi- ciate in a chapel, the ruins of which are ftill to be feen near the bridge. A Roman alcar, with a fair inferip- tion, was dug up here not long ago, and feveral urns, coins, and other antiquities, have been found in this neighbourhood. It is generally believed that the Roman highway, from Cottarick to Binchefter, enters the county of Durham at this town. Nefham, a village upon the Tees, fouth-eaft of Dar- lington, and in the road from London to Durham, is remarkable for a ford over the river, where the bifhop at his flrft coming to take poffeffion of the fee, is met by the country gentlemen, and where the lord of the manor of Scockburn, a village fouth-eaft of Nefham, upon the fame river, advances into the middle of the ftream, and prefents him with a faulchion, as an emblem of his temporal power, which he returns to him again, and then proceeds on his way. In the lame neighbourhood is Raby Caftle, the feat of the earl of Darlington, fituated in the midft of a moft extenfive territory, which gives his lordfhip a very hue command around him. The caftle is a noble maffy building of its kind, uninjured by any modern ftrokes inconfiftent with the general tafte of the edifice ; but, limply magnificent, it ftrik.es by its magnitude, and that idea of ftrength and command one naturally annexes to the view of valt walls, lofty towers, battlements, and the furrounding out -works of an old baron's refidence. The building itfelf (befides the courts) covers an acre of land; the fize may from thence be concluded. The fouth front is very beautiful, the center of it is from a defign of Inigo Jones ; nothing in the Gothic tafte can be more elegant than the ftile and pioportion of the windows. The rooms are very numerous, and more modern in their proportion and diftribution than one would eafily conceive to be poflible within the walls of fo antient a building; but by means of numerous paflages and back- ftairs, the apartments are extremely convenient, well connected, and at the fame time perfectly diftinct: his lordfhip has projected feveral improvements, which will add yet further to the fpacioufnefs and convenience of the apartments in general. The bed-chambers and dreffing-rooms are of a good fize and proportion, and feveral lower apartments large, and elegantly fitted up. One of the drawing-rooms thirty by twenty ; and the adjoining dining-room, fifty- one by twenty-one ; the windows of both of plate-glafs, and in the fmalleft and lighieft of brals frames. His lordfhip purpofes enlarging the latter of thefe rooms. Near it, there is a rendezvous apartment, ninety feet long, thirty-fix broad, and thirty-fix high, a proportion that pleafes the eye, at the very firft entrance ; it is however to be improved by an addition of thirty feet in length, by building, at one end of it, a circular tower, in the fame ftile as the reft of the caftle ; by which means the fouth front will be greatly improved, and the room will receive not only an additional ("pace, but the light at bottom of a (circular bow) window, which it wants at prefent. The park and ornamented grounds around the caftle are difpofed with very great tafte. The lawns, woods, plantations, objects, &c. are remarkably beautiful. Entering the lawn from the plantations near the houfe, the whole fweep has a very fine effect. The dog- kennel, a Gothic ornamented building, is feen on one fide rifing out of a fine wood, and beautifying the fecne much : upon the hill to the right, the Gothic farm- houfe, a fimple but pleafing defign, in a very fine fitua- tion ; in front, along the valley, feveral clumps of trees are fcattered, and between them his lordfhip's farm- houfe on a rifing hill ; a building which greatly orna- ments the grounds. This part of the lawn is finely inclofed on three fides with thriving plantations. This leads into the extended part of the lawn, which is, for its extent, the moft beautiful I have any where feen : the inequality of the ground is remarkably favourable to its beauty; it confifts of fine (weeps of grafs, ftretching away to the right and left, over hills moft elegantly fpread with plantations on one fide, and prefenting to the eye a fine waving uninterrupted furface through a valley, on the other. It loofes itfelf in fuch a manner among the woods, as to give room for the imagination to play, and picture an extent fuperior to the reality. In front, upon a fine rifing hill, is fituated the farm- yard, with a moft elegant Gothic fcreen to it. From this hill you look back on a very fine fcene. To the left, the whole is bounded by a moft noble range of planted hanging hills, which extend to the woods in front, furrounding the caftle to the diftatit profpect, in a moft picturefque manner : the hollow fcoops of lawn are peculiarly beautiful : to the right, it has a noble fweep through the valley, with a pro- digioufly extenfive profpect over it to Rofebury-top- ping, &c. Nothing can be more beautiful than this whole view, which is compofed of the moft elegant dif- pofition of ground imaginable ; the hanging hills fpread with wood ; the hollow fcoops of grafs, fpacious lawns, and diftant profpect upon the whole till the eye, and pleafe the imagination. Winding up to the right, and moving along the terrace, which is a natural one, but leads through an extenfive plantation, the views it commands are very fine. You look down upon the farm, and the hill upon which it hands, which waves through the valley in a moft pleafing manner ; throwing your eye more in front, you catch a lake breaking upon the view in irregular fheets of water, juft over the tops of the lower woods; the effect moft truly picturefque. Upon the right, the whole valley is commanded, and the market town of Staindrop well fituated among inclofures and ftraggling trees. Advancing, the profpect varies, a fine fweep of cul- tivated hill is feen upon the left, and the Gothic fann- houfe, ornamenting all the furrounding grounds : dc- fcending into the vale, you catch the town and chureh of Staindrop, moft picturefquely, among the trees. Further down, from among the Hoping woods, through which the riding lead-, the caftle is feen rifing moft nobly, from a fore ground of wood, in a ftile truly magnificent. Having vifited all the places worth furveying in the neighbourhood of Darlington, we proceed to Bernard Caftle, which takes its name from Barnard Baliol, great grandfather to John Baliol, king of Scotland, who 1 eiectcj '77 D U R eicce 1( j Advancing through this noble fcene, the, Z «y through a grafs dale, the rocks ate loft, and ai ,j ' • ft icene varied. On one fide the river is a hif. ~* with wo d ; and yon view the other through a t^ t - tered hedge in a moft pleafing manner ; it is a pro(-, '£* rock, with a fine fcattering of fhrubbv wood beauti^M* variegated. Here you fhould turn and view the 'rock you have left ; the fun ihining on them gives their re flection, in the fmooth parts of the river, in a ihle vcrv picturefque. Still advancing* you catch in front amdng the woocT a ruin on the banks of the river, half covered with ivy, and backed nobly with wood ; the river rapid and ro- mantic, under a new wall of formidable rocks. Juft before you come to the abbey, you may retnaik an old oak, fo connected with rock, that one may almoft call it half wood and half ftone. Oppofite the abbey the rocks give a fine curve, and ■nder them the river and terrace wind in rhe moft beau- tiful manner. It is here quite an amphitheatre of wood and rock; wild, romantic, and fublime. Seating yourfeif on a bench upon the little hill under the rock with an elm in front, the view is very finking. To the right the wall of rocks prefents i;s bold front* the river lofing itfelf under them, and the oppofite ftecp of wood, in the moft beautiful manner. To the left a fine wave of woody hill ; the river, rapid in its coUrfe, fills your ear with the found of its current.' Coming to the turn of the walk, the profpect ba* upon the rocks is prodigioufly fine. They are feen as* were in perfpedfive, and their tops, all crowned vvj oaks, have a noble effect. Q Winding up to the alcove on the hill to the rig^_ you fee a prodigious fine range of fteep woods, hangV over broken rocks, in a ftile peculiarly noble. At a d* tance you catch a fear of rock quits embofomed in ( thick wood. The river winds through the valley be- neath, and breaking into feveral diftindt ftieets of water throw a beautiful variety over this romantic fcene ;^ lofes itfelf to the left under another fweep of fine ha ing woods. You look down upon the ruined abbey, - the oppofite banks of the river, in a hollow, beautifiy picturefque. Above it, rifes in front a fine waving " cut into inclofures ; and over all, an extenfive d { : profpect. Upon the whole, the view is truly be, tiful. From hence, crofting a few inclofures to come ag e into the ornamented grounds, the path you enter wino on the brink of a wcody precipice, upon which you loo in a very romantic pleafing manner. It leads down, the river (here a fmooth and gentle current) through" a wild rugged way, and there brings you to another ftiore of pendent, craggy, broken rock, fringed with wood, in a picturefque manner. In one place, almoft under the dairy, it bulges forth in a vaft projecting body, al- moft threatening to thunder into the river, and obftrucl every drop of its ftream. A noble fcene. The walk takes a winding courfe through a thick wood, to the terrace in front of the houfe, from which the view is to- tally different from any of the preceding ; it looks down upon a deep winding valley, quite filled with wood: a fine bending hollow — The noife of the river at bottom raging over the rocks is heard, but no where feen ; nor can any thing be more romantic than this effect : for looking down into the hollow, without perceiving the water, the imagination at once takes fire, and pictures a horrible depth of precipice, far beyond the truth ; but in which it is fomewhat affifted, by the thicknefs of the wood breaking the line of found. Upon the whole, Cocken has received noble gifts from nature, and the affiftance {he has had from art has been the work of an elegant fancy, condudted by as correct a tafte. In the houfe are feveral pictures, which pleafe the lovers of that noble art. X x Trevifun J8 1 kettles, ar bottom, c D U R an earthquak . .. • ... the Chro* ■ Lj0t ms daughters. The colouring is mas-day i [S ^ ron a' anc * tne expremon fpirited . nor is it to a erea' thwanting in the effect of the clear obfcuie. tinued tii. Rape of Proferpine. The colouring not horrid n ami,s - . i; water v Diana and Endymion. Good. here ha' Acis and Galatea. Expreflive attitudes. the rivt Venus attiring. Happily delicate and terra- expreflive ; the roundnefs of the limbs and T the beauty of the naked are ftriking : the 2 pre/lure of her hand on her bofom is fine; and his want of attention characteristic of fuch a fituation. It is a copy from Guido. Bacchus and Ariadne. The attitude is very well caught ; the colouring, and the naked of Ariadne's body, are pleafing. Jupiter ; and Juno in the Ceftus of Venus. Her attitude is elegant, and the whole beautiful. Hercules and Omphale. The colours, naked, and attitude good. Yyviano. Architecture in perfpective, two pieces. Very fine, brilliant, and fpirited. Trcvifana. Portrait of the lace Mr. Carr, nobly fpi- rited. Unknown. School-miftrefs in her fchool. Fine ex- preffion ; the girls and boy are very well done ; the girl reading and the other knit- ting very natural. The miftrefs the leaft fpirited in the piece. Ditto. An old man feeding his family with cheft- nuts. Very fine, fpirited, and natural, i The minute expreflion is ftrong : But the c difFufion of light appears to be unnatural, j to proceed from no vifible fource. tDitto. Two fruit pieces. Very fine. cDitto. Two pieces of dead game. Natural. rDitto. Two heads. Fine. [Ditto. Landfcape; a cavern. Fine and bril- liant. Ditto. A philofopher reproving his copyer. Very fine and natural ; the airs of the heads well preferved, and the hands excellently done. A copy. \Ditto. Three fmall landfcapes. Good. Ditto. A large landfcape; rocks and water. Very fine. The cattle and figures excellent ; — l f minutely done. o-Vr/f. Ditto of rocks, with a ftraggling branch a with the light behind it. Fine and fpi- rited. Ditto. Three ditto in a dark ftile. The light is well done, and much fpirit in the piece. 'Ditto. One ditto, their companion. Exceed- ingly fine. The perfpective and keeping, itriking. Ditto. Two ditto, fomething ill the ftile of Zuc- carelli. Brilliant and pleafing. Ditto. A ditto, rocks, with a trunk of a tree in water. The rocks fine ; and the water excellent. Ditto. Two ditto in round. The cattle, the attitudes of the figures, the architecture and the trees, all have merit. Ditto. Large landfcape. It is in a dark ftile, but good. Salvator Rofa. A water fall. Spirited and alive. Another; rocks and wood. Good; but does not appear to me to equal the firft. Poujfin. Large landfcape. In a fine but gloomy ftile. From Cocken we proceeded to Sunderland, which, according to fome writers, has been thus called from its fituation at the mouth of the river Were, which, to- gether with the fca, almoft furrounds it, rendering it a peninfula, or a piece of land almoft fundered from the continent; others with more probability, think the name derived from the Saxon word Sonderland, which figni- fies a particular precinct, with privileges of its own. It is a populous well built town, two hundred and fixty- H M. thtee miles from London, and is both a borough and fea port ; but how it is governed d >es not appear. Hire is a very fine church, the ptincipal architect in the building of which, was one of the rectors of it, the re- verend and worthy Mr. Daniel Newcome, who likewife fpent the greateft part of his income in beautifying and adorning it. He began his improvements by building a dome, adjoining to the eaft end, into which he removed the altar, placing it under a canopy of inlaid work, fup- ported in front by two fluted pillars of the Corinthian order, with proper capitals ; but this gentleman died before his good intentions were compleated. The port of Sunderland was formerly fo very fhallow, that all the fhips were obliged to take in their loading in the open road, which was fi.metimes very dangeious to the keel- men or lightermen who brought the coals down to the fhips ; the fhips therefore which load here were generally fmaller than thofe in the neighbouring ports, but as tl^ rode in the open fea they were ready to fail as foon as they had taken in their loading ; a very confiderable advamage : for they have been known to fail, to de- liver their coals at Loudon, to beat up againft the wind in their return, and to get back before the fhips at Shields (a confiderable port at the mouth of the Tine) which were loaded before them, had been able to get over the bar : but this inconvenience has been lately in a great meafure removed. Thofe who are delighted with fea-profpe£ls, may here fee twenty or thirty fail of fhips coming in with a flow- ing tide from the coafting and foreign ports, fifteen or twenty going out on their refpective voyages, and thirty or forty fail at anchor in the road, taking in their car- goes. A bathing-houfe, like thole at Scaiborough, has been eredted here, and a tafte for politenefs and elegance has been introduced into the town. Here is a very fine pier, which affords a pleafant walk, as well as fhelter for the fhips, and is faid to have coft about nineteen thoufand pounds. They have alio deepened the fouth channel, by taking up part of the rock. So great is the trade of Sunderland, that in 1753, there belonged to this port alone about one hundred and ninety fhips, which are chiefly loaded with coals, the ftaple commodity of the place, and the produce of the adjacent country, whence many people are employed, and great fums brought in. In the fummer feafon, there are about ten thoufand tons of lime and lime-ftone car- ried from this river in fmall floops of about twenty or thirty tons. It is faid that there were loaded at this port in 1748, 2497 fail of fhips ; and there were loaded at the port of Sunderland, in the year 1752, befides the fmall floops already mentioned, Coafters "Lady-day 370 In the quarter ending at j JJj^JJ _ Chrillm. 480 34 2 4 T. Ports T0t.1l IS 64 65 29 3*5 »3°7 1336 509 3597 This account is exactly transcribed from the cuftom- houfe books of that year, and many of thefe fhips were from one hundred to five hundred tons burthen. The amount of the duties of goods exported and imported, from and to foreign parts, csmmunibus ann?s, is about ten thoufand pounds. And as it is computed, that about two hundred and fixty thoufand Winchtfter chal- drons of coals are carried coaftways, whereon there is a duty of five fhillings a chaldron on delivery, amounting tofixty-five thoufand pounds; the whole revenue arifing to the crown from the imports, exports, and ptoduce of Sunderland, may be reckoned about feventy-five thou- fand pounds, per annum ; fo that pofiibly, with refpect to the duty arifing from it, it may be the fixth, or at leaft the feventh port in the kingdom. This town has a weekly market on Friday, but no annual fair. Weremouth, called alfo Monk Weremouth, a town fituated on the north bank, at the mouth of the Were, oppofite to Sunderland, was given by king Egfrid to abbot *77 D U R abbor Benedict Bifcopius, who founded 'a monaftery here, which he dedicated to St. Peter. It fuffered in the Danifh wars, and was burnt down in an inroad made by Malcolm, king of Scotland, in the year 1070; it was afterwards began to be rebuilt by Walcher, bifhop of Durham ; but his fucceflbr, William de Carilepho, about the year 1083, removed moft of the monks to Durham ; to which Weremouth became a cell for three or four Benedi£ti:>c monks. It was valued upon the dif- folution at twenty-five pounds, eight {hillings and four pence, per annum. A woman at this town being fafely delivered of a fine boy, was, feven weeks afterwards, on the nineteenth of April, 1744, taken ill while fhe was employed in her houithould affairs, and brought to b:d of another boy, who was a fine child and likely to live. Near this town is a very elegant feat called Hylton- caftle, of which we have given a perfpective view. It belongs to the ancient family of the Hylton's ; and in it is ftill preferved the title of the bifhop's barons. About fix miles to the north of Weremouth, lies South-Shields, or Sheales in this county, fo called tu tliitinguifh it from North Shields in Northumberland, and becaufe it lies on the fouth fide of the mouth of the river Tine, as the other does on the north fide. This place is of gieat note for its fait works, here being above two hundred pans ufed for boiling fea water into (alt, of which fo vaft a quantity is made here, as not only fur- nifhes the city of London, but all the towns on or near the coaft between this place and that city, and upon the navigable rivers that come into the fea on that fide ; likewife all the counties, which are furnifhed by the navigation of the Thames, and the meadows to the weft and fouth of London. It is faid that in thefe works they confume near one hundred thoufand chaldrons of coals every year ; the truth of this is fufficiently confirm- ed by the vaft mountains of afhes which are raifed near the works, and which they have no other way to difpofe ©f. This place is principally inhabited by the people employed in thefe works ; there are, however, leveral fubftantial mafters of fhips, who make this the place of their refidence ; but even thefe are chiefly concerned in the falt-works, and likewife in the coal trade ; this, as well as North-Shields being the ftation for moft of the Newfoundland coal fleet, till the coals are brought down from Newcaftle in barges and lighters. There are fe- veral glafs-houfes alfo along the Tine, and one in par- ticular on the river Were, the workmen of which are foreigners ; but there is no certainty from whence they come : it is, however, believed that they are Normans, and that their anceftors were removed hither from Stur- bridge in the reign of Edward VI. or queen Eliza- bethT Some years ago was dug up at this place a large Roman altar, of an entire coarfe rag ftone, four feet high ; the front of it had an infeription, which, by what remains of it, we have N tn iuode cjoia muibrm orh j acri O R T H U M was formerly u fed in a much greater Mftu - t ::■ ■' " "TpHIS fhire _|_ latitude and extent than it is at prefent ; compre- hending all thofe counties, which, according to the im- port and meaning of the word, lay beyond, or on the north fide of theHumber, and included Yorkfhire, Dur- ham, Lancafhire, Weftmoreland, and Cumberland, as well as this fhire. Northumbeiland, as now circumfcribed, is divided, from Durham on the fouth, by the rivers Derwent and Tyne, from Scotland on the north, and weft by the river Tweed, the Cheviot-hills, and other mountains ; it is bounded by part of Cumberland on the fouth-weft, and by the German ocean on the eaft; Its general form is that of a triangle, the fides of which are unequal. It meafures from north to fouth about fifty miles, from eaft to weft forty miles, and is one hundred and fifty miles in circumference. This, with fome of the adjoining counties in Scotland, was in the time of the Romans inhabited by the Ottadini, or Ottatini, a people fuppofed to have been fo called from their fituation upon, or beyond the river Tyne ; as the ancient Britons called the country on the weft of the river Conway, in the county of Caernarvon, in Wales, by the name of Uch-Conway, and the county on the weft fide of the river Gyrrow, in Denbighfhire, by the name of Uch-Gyrrow, and named feveral other particular diftricts, from the river or mountain beyond which, with refpecf. to them, fuch diftridts were fituated, it is probable that they gave the name Uch-Tin to the country bordering upon or beyond the Tyne ; and that from the Britifh name Uch-Tin, or Uch-Dyn, the Romans formed Ottatini, or Ottadini* But as it appears that thefe Britons, who in the time of the Romans dwlet near the Picts-Wall, of which an account will be given in the defcription of Cumberland, were all known by the general name of Maeatae, and it is thought that the Ottadini were a tribe or divifion of the Maeatae ; fome have conjectured, that inftead of Maeatae we fhould read Naeatae, which name might be derived from Naid, or Nawd, a word that in the ancient Britifh language means a defence, or fecurity, as the wall upon which they bordered might be termed : be that as it may, the Maeatae were undoubtedly the people, who in that memorable revolt of the Britons againft the Romans, in which the Caledonians were brought into the. confederacy, firft took up arms. Thefe people being uneafy under the Roman govern- ment, confpired with the Caledonians, in the reign of the emperor Severus, and threw off the yoke, which fo enraged the prince, that having affembled his army in order to reduce them, he had the cruelty to order his foldiers to give them no quarter ; but his death pre- vented the execution of this inhuman command, and the Britons were left mafters or this province, 'till Theo- dofius, fome time after landing in England, recovered it out of their hands. Af f ..i tbje Romans had withdrawn their forces, the Britons, who had been exhaufted by the braveft of their youth being fent abroad to fight the battles of the Ro- mans, were obliged to call in the Saxons to affift them againft the Scots and Picts ; but when the Saxons had vanquifhed their enemies, they fettled here themfelves, and divided the fouth part of the iiland into feven king- doms, of which Northumberland was one of the chief. It was firft brought under the Saxon yoke by Offa, the brother of Hengilt, and his fon Jebufa. This county lying on the borders of Scotland, whofe inhabitants often made inroads into it, partly for con- queft, and partly for pillage, it was at length found ne- 62 E B -!<> R t; . i n L A N D, ib'.ilt, {at *77 e per .d of they n pro- hv -»he .id cefTary to conftitute particular governors to guard at>^ defend the borders, and thefe were called lords of the* Eaft, Weft, and Middle Marches. At the fame time every man poflefled of great wealth, found himfelf obliged to provide a caftle for his own fafety and defence. RIVERS. This county is extremely well watered with fine rivers, the chief of which are the Tweed, the North and South Tyne, the Coquet, and the Read. The Tweed rifes in Scotland, and running north-eaft, is joined by the Bow- bent, the Bramifh, the Till, and other fmaller ftreamsj it parts England from Scotland, and flows into the German fea at Berwick. The South Tyne rifes near Alfton-Moor in the north-eaft part of Cumberland, and running north-weft to Featherfton-Haugh, near Halt- wefel, there forms an angle, bending its courfe north- eaftward, and being joined by two fmall rivers, called the Eaft and Weft Alon, joins the North Tyne near Hexham. The North Tyne, which is much the moft confiderable, rifes in a mountain called Tyne-head, on the borders of Scotland, and flowing fouth-eaft, re- ceives a fmall river, called the Shele ; then continuing the fame courfe, is joined by a confiderable ftream, called the Read ; and having received the South Tyne, paffes by Newcaftle, and difcharges itfelf into the Ger- man ocean below Tinmouth. The Coquet rifes on the borders of Scotland, a little to the north of the fource of the Read, and running eaft- ward is joined by feveral ftreams, paffes by Rothbury, and falls into the German ocean at Warkworth. The Read rifes on a mountain, called Readfquire, and at its fource is a confiderable river ; and after having run a confiderable diftance fouth-eaft, in which courfe it receives many other ftreams, it falls into the north Tyne near Billingham. - Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Northumberland. The only river navigable in this county, except near their mouths, is the Tyne, in which barges pafs up to Hexham, near twenty miles from the mouth of the Tyne ; and boats might pafs much higher with a little affiftance from art. The Tweed, which feparates England from Scot- land, is navigable a confiderable diftance from its mouth ; but moft of the places by which it flows are fituated in Scotland. The mouths of feveral of the other rivers are navi- gable. The Wentfbeck, on which the town of Mor- peth is fituated, will admit fmall veflels, and might eafily be made navigable to that town. The Coquet has alfo a confiderable depth of water at its mouth ; but there being no town of confequence on its banks, the navigation of it has been neglected. The fmall river Alne, on which the town of Alnwick is fituated, might alfo be rendered navigable to that town, at a fmall expence ; but has been hitherto nee- leaed. 6 We fhall confider the navigation of the mouths of thefe rivers, in our remarks on the fea-coafts of Nor- thumberland. hay, one acre and a half in quantity, and mas-day, t»pt in houfe. Calves do not fuck aboye three to a grf* tinucd s ^the tillage of their lands, they reckon four horfes horrid ' for one hundred acres of arable land ; ufe two in watotftfjgh, and do an acre and half a day; allow them hir Five miles north-weft of Tynemouth, is Seafon- Sluice, another artificial port, formed by^Ralph Delaval, an able admiral of the laft century, on his own plan, and entirely at his own expence, for the benefit of him- felf and his friends, but without excluding others who chofe to ufe it. In conftructing this fmall harbour he found great difficulties, which exercifed his fkill and pa- tience ; a ftone pier, which covered it from the north- eaft wind, was more than once carried away by the fea; and on his overcoming this difficulty, by uling timber as well as ftone, he found a new inconvenience, his port filling up with mud and fand, though a pretty rapid ftream ran through it. To remove this, he placed a ftrong fluice with flood-gates upon his brook, which being fhut by the coming in of the tide, the water be- hind collected itfelfinto a body, and forcing a paffage at the ebb, carried all before it, and thus twice in twenty four hours fcoured the bed of the harb'.ur clean. This port, though fometimes called Seafon-Sluice, is more commonly termed Seafon-Delaval, from the name of the ingenious gentleman who formed it. It admits fmall veflels, yet larger vefiels may lie fafe, and receive their lading in the road. 64 Prudhow is a town and caftle, pleafkntly feated on the ridge of a hill, eight miles to the weft of New- caftle, and about two from the wall ; Camden would have it to be the Procolitia of the Romans ; but that has been more properly placed at Carrabrugh. This caftle was famous for its reiifting all attempts againftit. King Henry I. gave it to Gilbert de Umfranvile, which, for many fucceeding reigns, continued in that name. In the reign of Henry II. Odonell de Umfranvile bravely defended it againft William, king of the Scots, "who, ambitious of conquering fo ftrong a place, laid clofe fiege againft it; but by its own ftrength, and the help of Robert de ^tutevil, he was repulfed, and it continued as before in that family for many fucceeding ages. In the reign of Henry VI. it was given to Henry, earl of Northumberland, who was afterwards flain in the battle of St. Alban's, fighting for the Lancaftrian line. Henry, his fon, efpouiing the fame caufe, forfeited moft of his pofleffions, and this caftle was given to Robert, lord Ogle, for life; afterwards it came again to the earls of Northumberland, in whofe pofterity it ftill continues. Moft of the walls have fuffered greatly, only the fquare tower in the middle, and a lefTer one at the end, feem to be pretty entire. * At Fenham, a fmall village near Newcaftle, fome coal-pits are faid to have been burning feveral years. The flames are viable at night, and may be traced in the day by the fulphur on the ground. At Benwell, alfo near Newcaftle, feveral urns have been dug up with coins in them ; one of thefe urns has been depofited in the library at Durham, where it ftill remains entire. Having viewed every thing curious in or near New- caftle, we purfued our tour towards Morpeth, and at the four mile ftone took the road that branches off to the villa of North Gosforth, near which is the feat of Charles Brandling, Efq. It is a large modern ftruclure of white free-ftone, and hewn work, after a defign in Pain's architecture. It ftands on a rifing ground, from which the villa of Newbiggen, of Kenton, of Long Benton, and an opening between two diftant hills, into the bilhopric of Durham are in view. Three miles north-eaft from it is the villa of Seghill, fuppofed by Camden and others to have been the Roman ftation Segedunum, fince fixed at Carr-vill. It was anciently a feat and manor belonging to the younger branch of the family of the Mitfords ; but is at prefent the feat of Sir Lancelot AUgood, of Nanwick, Knt. About four miles from Seghill, is Delaval-caftle, or Seaton Delaval, the feat of Sir Francis Blake Delaval, knight of the bath. It is a modern ftruclure, after a defign of Sir John Vanburgh, the architect of Blenheim, in Oxfordfhire ; no remains of the ancient baronial caftle being now vifible. When finifhed, it will be a perfect quadrangle, each fide two hundred and twenty feet. The main entrance is to the north, into a lefty and ftately hall, above which is a gallery. In the niches of the wall are fix handfome fculptured female figures, reprefenting the fciences, with their fymbols, viz. aftro- nomy, architecture, and fculpture, on one fide; and on the other, geography, painting, and mufic ; the floor of the hall of black and white marble. Before the fouth front is a grafs-lawn, edged with plantations; and be- yond it, a fpacious avenue, with lhady walks on each fide ; a fwimming-bath about mid-way, terminated by an obelifk ; the ancient ruins of Tynemouth-priory, and the ocean being in fight. To the north it has an ex- tenfive profpect of near fixty miles, the mountain of Cheviot being vifible on a clear day. To the eaft, through feveral openings in little groves, are feen pieces of ftatuary ; alfo a large and fpacious riding-houfe ; and a beautiful garden, with a confervatory, or green houfe ; and a delightful view of the fea, which e;ives Seaton Delaval, in this particular, infinitely the advantage over Blenheim. To the weft, is an avenue, a mile and a quarter in length, and an obelifk about half-way. Near is the family chapel fituated in a grove. By the en- trance on the right hand, is an effigy in ftone of one of the family who made the crufade, recumbent, and in I armour ; his legs crofted, his feet refting on a lion, 3 C and! 190 NORTHUMBERLAND. and his hands elevated. Oppofite to him on the left hand is another of a lady, recumbent likewife, and her hands clcvi'.ted. A mile from this noble feat, is the fea-port and fifh- in<'-town of Hartley, which, in the reign of king John, was held of the barony of Gaugy, by Adam de Jef- niont. It was afterwards, in the reign of king Richard II. in the pofleffion of Henry Delaval, Knt. and at prefent belongs to Sir Francis. It is a well built and improving marine villa, populous, and the inhabi- tants induftrjous, fituated on a bold and rocky fhore ; haibour to the north of it, by a fpacious fandy bay. Four great works are carrying on at it, viz. a coal- work, a falt-work, a copperas-work, and a glafs-work ; the latter a handforne building, two hundred and twenty feet in front ; the fide-walls to the roof thirty-fix feet, the property of Thomas Delaval, Efq; fourth brother to Sir Francis and Sir John. Near the fixth mile ftone, a road branches off on the ri^ht hand to Bedlington, a large, well built, and plea- fant villa, fituated on an eminence; the manor of which belongs to the fee of Durham, as part of the patrimony of St. Cuthbert, including all that fpace on the fea- coaft between the rivers Blyth and Wanfbeck, known by the name of Bedlingtonfhire. Out of every plow-land in this manor, the hofpital of St. Giles, near. Durham, received a thrave of corn, for the relief of poor ftrangers and travellers, till it was agreed to pay nine fhillings in lieu of it at a certain time, within fifteen days after the feaft of St. Michael, and in cafe of failure to pay ten Ihillings. When the lands belonging to the fee of Durham were put up to fale by the parliament, January the twenty- firft, 1649, this manor, and Choppington farm, were purchafed for one thoufand two hundred and ninety-fix pounds and five-pence halfpenny, by Robert Fen- wick, Efq; a rcprefentative in parliament for Northum- berland, in the years 1654, 1656. In a fmall tract publifhed in the year 1660, it was affirmed, that at the reftoration the purchafers of church- lands offered the king the capital fum of five hundred thoufand pounds,wto confirm their right for ninety-nine years, on the payment of the old rents to the bifhops and clergy ; which offer his majefty was fo far from complying with, that he granted a commiflion for en- quiring after all fuch purchafes. The village confiffs of one long and wide ftreet, and forms a kind of Hoping avenue to the river Blythe, which is the fouthern boundary to the (hire, and glides paft it betwen two fteep banks, and fupplies a large iron-work with water. The church is a fmall ftruclure covered with lead, with an old tower. On the foiith fide of the river Blyth, is Pebfide, the manor of which beli nged to the priory of Tynemouth ; which, vvith their manor of Cowpon on the banks of the fame river, were afiigned as fecurities to Ralph, lord Greyftock, for the performance of certain conditions on their part, on his lordfhip's founding a chantery in their church of Tynemouth, in the year 131 5, and in the eighth of king Edward II. In the tenth year of the reign of queen Elizabeth, it belonged to John Ogle, Efq; and in trig year 171 5, and the fecond of king George 1. it was in the pofleflion of John Johnfon, Efq; then high fherifF of Northumberland. It is at prefent the feat of his daughter, Mrs. Mary Fielding, relict of the late Captain Fielding. About two miles from Bebfide is South Blyth, a well built village and fea-port on the fouth fide of the river Blyth, fiom which it derives its name. It is in the pofleflion of Matthew Ridley, Efq; of Heaton, near Newcaffle. A little beyond this place on the left hand is Blaigdon, one of the manors of the barony of Morpeth, of which it was held by John de Pleflis, in the reign of Edward I. a benefactor to the priory of New-minfter. It paid an- nually for cornage on the feaft of St. Cuthbert, in Sep- tember, one fhilling and one#enny halfpenny. It was the feat and manor of Matthew White, Efq; high fherifF »J Northumberland in the year 1720, who built a hand- forne houfe, to which his fon, the late Sir Matthew White, made fome additions and ornaments. It is now in the pofllffion of his nephew, Sir Matthew White Ridley, Bart. The poft-road crofTes the river Blyth, by a ftone- bridge of one arch, and brings us to Stannington, an ancient villa, and another of the manors of the barony of Mcrpeth. Jn the old rolls of the barony, it Hands diftinguifhed under the name of Cook's-land. It paid annually for cornage one fhilling and one penny half- penny on St. Cuthbert's day, in September. The church frauds on the north fide of the village. The third Roger de Merley, baron of Morpeth, founded a chantery in it in honour of the Blefi'ed Virgin, for one chaplain, to be chofen by the arch-deacon of Northumberland for the time being. He gave to it one toft and croft on the fouth fide of the church, with common of pafture for four cows, and thirty ewes with their followers of one year old. He alfo gave to it ten acres of land, and half of a plough-land, in Clifton, and twenty acres of land in Coldwell, to hold of the priory of Hexham, by the annual rent of one fhilling and fix-pence, to be paid on the feaft of St. Peter de Vincula, and anfwering to the priors court. He gave to it befides, three ox-gangs of land in Coldwell, with common of pafture in Clifton and Coldwell, to hold of Gibbert de Comers and his heirs by the annual rent of one fhillin j;. He likewife gave to it a filver chalice, gilt within, of the value of twenty-three fhillings, alfo veftments for the ufe of the chaplain. Roger de Somerville gave the advowfon of the church, to the priory of Newminfter. Near the fifteenth mile-ftone, and two hundred and ninety- two miles from London, is Morpeth, a well built borough-town, fituated upon the river Wanfbeck, a contraction of Woden's-Beck, encompafied almoft with little pleafant hills, on whofe brows are plantations of fir, beech, and elms. It is thought to have derived its name from More-path, or the road through the more, or moor. It made no confiderable figure under the Saxons and Danes; but under the firft Normans it rofe in dignity fuperior to a villa; being then erected into an honour, and ftiled the barony of Morpeth, or the barony of Merlay, from its pofi'eflbrs the lords Merlay ; one of whom founded the abbey of New-minfter ; on the north fide of the chapel of which he was interred, with his lady, and their fon Ofbert. The three laft lords Merlay were all of them of the name of Roger j the firft of whom, by paying to king John in the year 1 199, a fine of twenty marks and two good palfreys, acquired for his borough of Morpeth a weekly market, and an annual fair. He was interred at New-minfter. The fecond Roger, lord Merlay, contributed greatly to the profperity of his borough at Morpeth ; he confirmed all its privileges ; under his patronage and influence an hofpital was founded at Catchburn ; and was afterwards in- terred at the entrance of the priory church at New-minfter. By the charter of the third Roger, lord Merlay, the burgefTes of Morpeth and their fucceflbrs were freed from all taxes, fubfidies, or contributions, except on the king's account in military expeditions, or for the public defence, or the marriage of the lord's eldeft fon or daughter, or for his own redemption out of prifon. By the fame charter the prizes raifed by his officers or fer- vants, or thofe of his fucceflbrs, on bread, beer, or other things, were afiigned to the creditors within the bo- rough to be paid within forty days, and in the mean time the lord was at liberty to make other prizes at his plea- fure. Their accuftomed common right of pafturage, and other conveniencies, were confirmed to them and their fucceflbrs, and way-leave granted to and from the town, cornfields and meadows only excepted. He found- ed a chauntery in the parifh church of Stannington, and was interred in the New-minfter near the remains of his father. The borough of Morpeth never fent members to par- liament before the firft year of queen Mary's reign in 1553. It is governed by two bailiffs and feven burgefTes, who are all elected annually out of the principal inhabi- tants, paying fcot and lot; they are about two hundred in number, and by thefe alfo the members of parliament are elected. 1 The NORTHUMBERLAND. 19! The market-place is in the center of the town. It 1 has a neat market-crofs, on which is the following in- fcription : The Hon. Philip Howard, and Sir Henry Belo- fyfe, Knt. The only benefactors of this crofs. Anno Dom. 160.9. On the weft fide of the market-place is the town-hall. It is a handfome ftru&ure, of white free-ftone, and hewn work, with a piazza, and a tower at each end, ere&ed in the year 17 14, at the expence of the Right Hon. the Earl of Carlifle, whofe court is kept in it, as alfo the quarter- feffions for the county. At a fmall diitance from it, is a neat tower of white free-ftone, wherein is a good ring of bells, and a large clock. Between the town-hall and the bridge is the county- gaol, a modern and decent ftruc-ture. At the north end of this bridge is a fmall, but neat chapel, of modern erection, of white free-ftone, and hewn-work. At the weft end of it is a grammar-fchool ; an antient building ; which was founded by king Ed- ward VI. and endowed with the lands of two diflblved chanteries in Morpeth, and one at Neither Witton. The parochial church ftands on the fouth fide of the bridge, at a confiderable diftance from the town, on a a hill called Kirk-hill, in the weft park, on the weft fide of the poft road. One of the chanteries in it juft men- tioned was founded in honour of the Bleffed Virgin. It has three good ifles, a gallery at the weft end, and another between the pillars of the north ifle, a veftry, and one bell. In the chancel is a flat fepulchral ftone with the following infcription : In obitum Henrici Graii nuper de Novo monafterio, armig. qui obiit ultimo Die Martii, Anno Domini 1597 ; poluit Thomas Grey, filius primogenitus Pietatis ergo. Underneath is the coat armorial of .the Greys, of Chiliingham, and on one fide this motto : De bon Valoir. Below are the following verfes in Latin : Conditus hie Jaceo quartus genitore Radulpho Filius ex Graio milite fic jaceo. Nupta fuit mini Woddringtonia chara Maria, Militis ac clari nata Johannis ea : Una dies partus nos, ut Baptismata una, Junxit fic una lex hymenea toro. Annos bis feptem fociale federe Jun£ti ; Ruperunt tetrici vincula noftra dea?, Bis Binos pueros mihi, trefq'ue Lucina puellos, Praebuit extin£ti pignora chara mei. The rectory houfe, which ftands on the eaft fide of the road, is little better than a ruin. Near the church is the baronial caftle, which has been long in ruins. One tower only is left ftanding, with part of two fpeculating turrets on an eminence, commanding a fine view of the town, and of the wind- ing courfe of the Wanfbeck, crofl'ed by a bridge of two arches, and bordered with hanging woods. Morpeth lends two members to parliament, has a weekly market on Wednefday, and two annual fairs, viz. Holy-Thurfday, for horned cattle, Iheep, and horfes ; and the Wednefday before July the twenty-fecond, for cattle. The abbey of New-minfter is fituated on the banks of the Wanfbeck, half a mile from Morpeth. It was founded by Ralph de Merlay and his lady, in the year 1 1 38, for Ciftertian monks, and dedicated to the Bleffed Virgin. The .bunders endowed it with the lordfhip of Ritton, part of the woods of Witton, and all the vale between Morpeth and Hebre, by the brook of Fulbeck to its fall into Cotingburn, and by Cotingburn to its fall into the Wanfbeck. Befides thefe lands, its eftates were greatly increafed by various benefactions ; fo that at the diffolution, when there were about fifteen religious in the abbey, the an- nual revenues were computed at one hundred and forty pounds, ten {hillings ana four-pence. The whole ftruclure is now razed to its very founda- tions, and nothing remains to fpeak its antiquity, ex- cept a fmall fragment or two of the portal or gate-way leading to it. About a mile from New-minfter, and on the ftiady banks of the fame river is Mitford, formerly a famous caftle. It ftands in a fine park, on a mount, to all ap- pearance the work and labour of art. It was burnt, together with the village, in the year 1216, by the German troops, which king John brought into England. Near the old caftle is the church, in the old chancel of which is a large monument of free-ftone erected over the tomb of one of the Bertrams, formerly lords of this caftle, with his coat of arms in a concave fquare mould- ing ; and below it the following infcription, cut in capital letters : Here lyeth interred with- in this molde, a generous and virtuous wight^ whofe dewe deferte cannot be told, from flender fkill unto his right. He was defcended from a race of worfhipful Antiquitie. Loved he was in his life-fpace, of high eke of low degree. Reft Bartram in this houfe of clay reuf'ley unto the latter day. Under the above epitaph is his effigy cut on the ftone cover of his tomb, in relief ; his hands lifted up in a praying pofture, and on the edge of it thefe lines, in capitals : Bartram to us fo dutiful a fon, if more were fit, it fhould for thee be done, who deceafed the 7th of Odtober, Anno Domini, 1622. About three miles eaft: of Morpeth is Bothall, an ancient baronial caftle, now belonginging to his grace the duke of Portland : but there only now remains an old tower of the caftle. It is large and ftately, and through it was the grand entrance. On the north front were the arms of its ancient barons. It ftands on an agreeable mount on the north fide of the winding trout ftreams of the Wanfbeck, gliding between plea- fant meadows and hanging woods. Near the old caftle is the parochial church. It has three handfome ifles, and the pulpit placed againft the north pillar entering the chancel. The lights are neat, and part of them adorned with paintings. At the eaft: end of the fouth iile is a handfome tomb of alabafter, in- clofed with iron rails, erected to the memories of one of the barons of Ogle and Bothall, and his lady. In a ftiady folitude on the banks of the Wanfbeck near Bothall, are the ruins of an ancient chapel, dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary. It is twenty-four feet in length, and twelve in breadth. It was built by the Ogle family, of free-ftone ; the roof being formed of the fame materials, after a curious manner :^but the re- mains of this chapel are now hardly vifible for trees which have taken root in the very foundation. Afhington, in this neighbourhood, once a manor of the barony of Bothall, now belongs to George Sandi- ford, Crowe, Efq. It ftands on an eminence well fheltered with tall foreft trees. It has a beautiful view of the fea, and alfo of Seaton-Delaval, and Bebfide, through the openings of the plantations, the ground Hoping regu- larly to a plantation of oaks by the river Wanfbeck. Below this plantation is a fine grafs area of a mile in length, the river during that fpace forming a moft beau- tiful canal, and having on the oppofite fide a bank of oaks. On the fouth bank of the mouth of the river Wanf- beck, is a fmall hamlet called Cambois, belonging to Matthew Ridley, Efq. The river here is ufually called Cambois-water and Cambois-harbour. It is navigable to the Stakeford for vefiels of about thirty tons burden. There are two quays on the north fide, one called the low, and the other the high quay. About a mile to the northward of the harbour's • mouth, is a range of cliffs by the fea, called Hawks- hugh. NORTHUMBERLAND. huoh, from its being the recefs of hawks" during their breeding feafon. A iittle to the north of this range of cliffs is New- biggen, a village inhabited chiefly by fifhermen, and confifting chiefly of one irregular ftreet. It has leveral granaries for holding corn, which is exported from the bav before it, confidered as one of the fineft in this county. It is capacious, with a fandy bottom, and is formed by two promontaries of free-ftone. Corn (hips of about fixty tons burden, come up to the town ; and at a little diftance from the fhore, fhips of confiderable burden may ride in fafety. On the north point of the bay are the veftiges of an old pier ; many of the Hones, and fome of the piles of wood, being vifible at low water. On the north-eaft fide of the harbour is the church, dedicated to St. Bar- tholomew; but the only remains of it, are the fpire and middle ifle. At the welt end is a fm:dl gallery, and at the eaff, over the communion table, the king's arms cut in wood, in alto relievo, and faid to have been the ftern of a fhip caft away on the rocks. Four miles from Newbiggen is Widdrington-caftle, now in the poffeflion of Sir John Warner, knight of the Bath. It ftands about a mile and a half from the fea, on a pleafant fhady eminence, and has a beautiful Coquet ifland, on which there was formerly a cell of Benedictine monks. Near the feveuth mile ftone in the great poft-road leading from Morpeth, is a fine view of Warkworth- caftle, now belonging to the duke of Northumberland. It is fituated on an eminence above the village of Wark- worth. The principal tower, and fome other parts of the building are ftill remaining, and appear magnificent in their ruins. Warkworth has a bridge of three arches over the river Coquet, in the middle of which is an upright ftone pil- lar, adorned with the Piercy arms ; and at the fouth end a fquare tower, the gate of which was formerly of iron, with port-cullices. Warkworth has a weekly mar- ket on Thurfday ; and three annual fairs, viz. on the Thurfday preceding St. George's, St. Lawrence's, and St. Martin's day, for black cattle, flioes, hats, and ped- lars goods. A quarter of a mile to the weft of Warkworth, in the old park, on the northern bank of the river Coquet, is the Hermitage, formerly, a cell for two Benedictine monks from Durham, for whofe maintenance Nicholas de Farnham, bifhop of that fee, in the reign of Henry III. appropriated the church of Brankfton ; and this grant was confirmed by his iucceifor Walter de Kirk- ham. It confifts of a fmall chapel and a bed-chamber, cut out of a folid rock of white rag-ftone, in the Saxon-Gothic ftyle ; the chapel being curioufly adorned with pillafters, and the roof with knot-work. In a window on the fouth-fide of the altar are the effi- gies of the Virgin and the child Jefus. At her feet is a hermit in a praying attitude, and near him a bull's head. All thefe figures are in alto-relievo. Over the entrance into the chamber is an efcutcheon of arms, now effaced; and next the river, the ruin of a fmall building, with a fire place, probably the kitchen. On the fouth-fide of the rock is a door and winding flairs, leading to a little garden. The range of rocks are of a confiderable height and length. Near the tenth mile ftone, is a ftone bridge of three arches over the river Coquet ; and on the north-fide is Felton, a very pleafant villa, fituated on a gradual flope, now in polfefiion of Thomas Riddel, Efq; A little beyond the turnpike-gate is the ancient caftle of Alnwick, the feat of his Grace the Duke of Nor- thumberland, who has repaired it in a very fplendid and magnificent manner. The apartments are all fitted up in the Go:hic tafte, and ornamented in a very light and elegant Mile. The principal ones arc, I. A breakfaft- roum, thirty-three by twenty-one. 2. Dining-room, fifty-five by twenty-two ; it has two bow-windows, but irregular, the Gothic work very elegant : over the chimney, the duche s, by Reynolds. 3. A drawing- room. 4. A library, fixty-five by twenty-two, and at the end, a chapel. 5. A faloon, forty by twentr, and a bow. The architec-lure of the new buildings is quite in the caflle ftile, and very light and plealing. Alnwiclc-caftle was befieged in the year 1093, by Malcolm, king of Scotland, having with him his fon, prince Edward, the heir apparent to the crown. Robert Mowbray, a nobleman of great perfonal bravery was then governor of Northumberland. Exafperated to fee his native country invaded for the fifth time by that active monarch, he determined to feek revenge. Mal- colm thought himfelf fecure by the abfence of the king's troops ; a circumftance which Mowbray well knew and improved to his own advantage. He came fuddenly upon Malcolm by the forces of his own government : a bloody battle enfued ; and the Scots, deprived of their ufual courage by this furprize, gave ground. The fovereign and his fon, aflonifhed to fee this change of conduct, rode from rank to rank, exhorting, intreating and imploring them to remember the Scottifh arms. But all their endeavours were exerted in vain ; they however perfevered in the at- tempt till they were both flain ; a difafler that completed the route, and left the Englifh in poiTefiion both of the field of battle, and the caftle. And there is ftill a ftone column, about a mile from Alnwick, erected to perpe- tuate the memory of this event, and called Malcolm's- crofs. The caflle was a fecond time befieged in the year 1 1 74, during the reign of Henry II. by William, king of Scotland attended by an 3rmy of eighty thoufand men. But preferring plunder to a fiege, which in all probability would not be attended with luccefs, he abandoned the enterprize, and pillaged the country. A body of four hundred horfe from Newcaftle under the command of five gentlemen, hearing of their depredations, determined to relieve their country or perifh in the attempt. Bernard Bailol, a gentleman of great refolution, conduct, and experience, animated his companions, and headed the forces. They came upon the Scottilh. monarch una- wares, while his troops were fcattered and difperfed in plundering the wretched inhabitants. Alarmed at the danger, the king recalled as many of his troops as were within hearing the found of his trumpets. In the mean time the Englifh attacked them with great intrepidity, while the Scots, who were wearied with plundering, made but a faint refiftance ; their whole army was dif- fipated, and their king taken prifoner, after performing the moll gallant actions. Many of his fcattered troops were taken prilbners ; others fled towards their own country, and the king himfelf was carried to Richmond- caftle, and thence to London ; where he obtained his liberty on paying an hundred thoufand pounds fterling; one moiety in ready money, and the other at a fixed period of time, delivering up as fecurity for the pay- ment, the caftles of Edinburgh, Roxburgh, Berwick, Jedworth and Sterlings' He alfo did homage for his crown to England ; the firft example of that kind upon record ; and as a perpetual memorial of which, he left his bieaft-plate, fword, and faddle, to be kept in York- minfter. In the year 1212, king John ifiued orders for de- molifhing the caftle of Alnwick, on account of his fuf- pecting Euftace de Vefey, of being difaffected to his government ; but on his fubmiffion the orders were countermanded. After the battle of Hexham-field, in the year 1463, during the reign of Edward IV. the earl of Warwick, the lords Montacute, Fauconbridge and Scrope, appear- ed before the caftle, and fummoned Sir Peter Brefly, and his Norman auxiliaries, to furrender. Sir Peter now yielding to their requeft, they refolved to befiege it. But Sir George Douglas coming immediately to its re- lief with thirteen thoufand Scotfmen, the governor march- ed out with his friends, the enemy not daring to oppofe his paffagc. Near the caftle is the town of Alnwick, fituated on a fmall river called the Aln, three hundred and ten miles from London, in the road to Berwick. It is a fmall borough, the principal officers of which are the duke's bailiffs, and four chamberlains, annually chofen. Thofe who NORTHUMBERLAND, who are made freemen of the town meet on St. Mark's day, on the town moor, formerly called the foreft of Aidon, on horfeback, dreffed in white and attended by the caftle bailiff, the four chamberlains, and moft of the freemen; when, by ancient cufiom, they pafs through a deep bog, called the freeman's well, where they are lbmetimes up to the chin. Alnwick is very pleafantly fituated on the declivity of a hill four miles from the fea. Three ports and towers of the town hall are ftiil ftanding, viz. Bond-gate, a prifon for debtors and felons; Clay-pon, converted into a poor-houfe ; and Potter-gate, or the tower without a roof. The market-place is nearly in the center of the town ; and on the weft fide is a market-houfe, lately built by the duke and duchefs of Northumberland, for the benefit of the corporation, in the Gothic tafte. It contains feven apartments, with an ambulatory before, them. On the north fide of the market place is a range of buildings, in which is the town-hall, entered by a flight of fteps, where the country feflions and the elections of the knights of the fhire are held. Over the hall is a tower, with a large clock. Near the upper end of Potter-gate-ftreet is a grammar- fchool, having over the entrance, the following in- fcription : Hasc fchola pri:ro in ufum municipum Alaunenfium asdificata, Anno Dom. 1687. Nunc demum inftauratur, Anno Dom. 1741. There is a neat houfe and garden adjoining to it, for the accommodation of the mailer; and the endowments amount to twenty-five or thirty pounds, per annum, arifing chiefly out of the tolls of the town. In the year 1448, the town was burnt by the Scots, in refentment for the burning of Dumfries, by the Enelifh. The church is fituated at the end of Bailiff-gate-ftreet. It is capacious, has three ifies, extending through three arches i:;to the chancel. It has four galleries, and is a neat church. The abbey of Alnwick was founded in the year 1157, by Euftace Fitz-John, for Premonftratenfian canons. He dedicated it to the Virgin Mary, and endowed it with a large parcel of his baronical lands. He gave the village of HuiclifF, and all the demefnes about it, on the left hand of the road leading from Alnwick to Ruck, and the waftes belonging to it, extending from Hindon to the river Aln, with the fervice of half the tenants. He gave it two parts of the tithes of the lordftiips of Tugball, Alnham, Newham, Heyfend, and Chatton, together with one moiety of the tithes of Woller. He gave it the appropriations and advowfons of Alnwick, Woller, Long Houghton, and Lefbury. He alfo an- nexed to it the priory and church of Gyfnes, now Gyfon, or Guizance, near Felton, dedicated to St. Wilfrid, of Ricr.ard Tyfon's foundation, to hold in pure alms with all its privileges and endowments, a moiety of the tithes, and two bevats of land at Gyfon, the church of Halge or Haugh, the lands of Ridley, and Morwick-haugh, with liberty of erecting a corn- mill on the river Coquet, and of raifing as much corn on its waftes there as they could plough ; with liberty to grind it at his own mil), moulter-free. He alfo gave the canons for their table the tenth part of all the venifon and pork killed in his parks and forefts, and of all the fifh taken in his fifheries by his order; and a fait work at Warkworth. Thefe are the chief antient privileges and polTeffions of Alnwick-abbey. At the time of the diffolution its annual revenues were valued at one hundred and eighty- nine pounds, fifteen fhillings ; at which time it had thirteen canons. In the fourth year of rhe reign of king Edward VI. the fite of it was granted to Ralph Sadler and Laurence Winmington. It is at prefent in the pof- feffion of Thomas Doubleday, Efq; whofe feat is erected out of the ruins which flood in hia orchard, fouth of his pler.fure-garclen. T he only remains of this religious pile is the court-wall to the eafl, through which is the en- trance, rf very curious architecture, with a modern- built turret at the fouth end, beyond which is a build- ing feemingly of a later erection ; adjoining to it is an antient ftrong tower, with four turrets, two at each end. The abbey ftands at a fmall diftance from the caftle, delightfully fituated under a hill, on the extreme point of a peninfula, by the eaftern margin of the river Aln, croffed by a bridge of two arches, whofe winding-ftream pleafantly runs paft it ; the oppofite fide is lhaded with a bank covered with wood, through which a broken rock appears in feveral different places. Between the bridge and the church is a ftreet, which form a kind of fuburbs to the town ; it is called Canon- gate, from its leading to the abbey of canons, a fmall manor belonging to them, and now in the pofleffion of Sir Lancelot Allgood, of Nunwick, Knt. This town has a weekly market on Saturday, andl four annual fairs, viz. May the twelfth, for horned cattle, horfes and pedlary ; the laft Monday in July, for black cattle, horfes, linen and woollen cloth ; the firft Monday in October, for horned cattle, horfes and pedlary ; and the twenty-fourth of December, for fhoes, hats, poultry and woollen cloth. About three miles from the caftle of Alnwick, fituated on an eminence, nearly in the middle of Huln-park, is the abbey of Huln, founded bv Ralph Frcfborn, a gen- tleman of Northumberland, for Carmelite-friars, and endowed by John, lord Vefey, with twelve acres of land lying round it. On the weft fide of it, is an antient tower, built by Sir Henry Piercy, the fourth earl of Northumberland, as appears from the following infcrip- tion, cut in relief, on a ftone which is ftill remaining: In the year of Chrift M.CCCC.XXVIII. This tower was builded by Sir Henry Piercy, The fourth earl of Northumberland, of great honour and worth, That efpous'd Maud, the good lady, full of virtue and beauty, Daughter to Sir Will. Herbert, right noble and hardy, Earl of Pembroke, whofe foules God fave, And with his grace conferve the bildei of this tower. The founder of this monaftery, Mr. Frefborn, died in the year 1274, and was, by his own defire, interred in it. It is fituated in a delightful folitude on the north- eaft fide the river Aln. The whole, except the tower, is now in ruins. It was given by queen Elizabeth, to Sir John Forfter, Knt. and now belongs to his grace the duke of Northumberland, who has repaired the tower, and made a handlbme road to it from his caftle through the park. To the weft of the abbey are the rock hills, called Brifby-hills, containing about two hundred acres, planted by his grace with foreft-trees, which in a few years will greatly add to the beauty of the place. At the north end of Alnwick-bridge a road branches off on the right hand, to Howick, one of the manors of the barony of Alnwick, in the poffefiion of Sir Henry Grey, Bart. The old tower of Howick, mentioned by Leland, is entered by a flight of fteps, and is ftill a fair ftruclure, to the north end of which the late Sir Harry, father to the prefent, built a large handfome houfe, and convenient offices. It is fituated within a mile of the fea ; on the north fide of a ftream called Harwick-burn, croffed by a new ftone bridge of alhler work. To the north are the ftables ; and to the weft is a fhrubbery and plantation, through which the brook takes its courfe between grafs lawns, and paffes away by a gentle fall. On the fouth-eaft is the church, dedicated to St. Michael, rebuilt in a handfome manner by the late Sir Harry. Near it is a free-fchool for the education of his tenants children in reading, writing, and accounts. At his death he left two hundred pounds to fupport this charity. From the fummit of a hill we fee at a fmall diftance, Dunftanburgh-caftle, fituated on the banks of the fea, feven miles north-eaft of Alnwick. It was the capital feat of a barony, fometimes called the Darony of Emil- don. It was built in the reign of king Edward I. by Thomas, earl of Lancafter, the fon of Edmund Crouch- back, tarl of Lancafter, brother to the faid king. It is fituated on an inacceflible rock over-looking the fea, and beautifully adorned with v» ious towers, part of 3 D which '94 NORTHUMBERLAND. v hxh are ftill remaining. It was anciently a very ftrong and fpacious fortrefs, it being, by means of a deep ditch, furrounded by the fea. In the reign of Edward IV. it endured a long fiege, and was at laft reduced ; and all the ganifon, except Sir Piers de Creffey the commander, made pnfoners. This caftle and barony formerly be- longed to the dutchy of Lancafter, but they are now in the pofil-flion of the earl of Tankerville. For the fatis- faction of the reader, we have here annexed a view of this edifice. Near the fourth mile ftone a road branches off to the ri<*ht which brings you to Rock, one of the manors of the barony of Alnwick. It ftands on an eminence, and comrranJs'an extenfive profpect both of fea and land. In it is a chapel dedicated to St. Philip and St. James. It is at prefent in the poffeflion of the right honourable the carl of Jerfy. Two miles eaft from Rock, and a mile from the fea, Hands Embleton, the barony of John de Vifcount, in the reigns of king Henry III. and king Edward I. It was afterwards one of the lordfhips of the dutchy of Lan- cafter, and now belongs to the earl of Tankerville. The village is irregularly built, iltuated under the ridge of a bill, which intercept the profpecT: of the fea. The church, which is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, ftar.ds on the weft fide of the village, and built in the form of a crofs. The roof is flat, covered with lead ; a gallery is erected at the weft end ; near which is a good veftry, and a lofty tower. The vicarage houfe, which is a neat and commodious building, ftands on the north fide of the church-yard. On the top of the hill is a fmalii fchool, where Englifti and writing are taught to poor children. It was founded by the Rev. Mr. Edwards, and to which he gave an inclofed field, let at five pounds a year. From the ninth mile. ftone is a fine view of Eamburgh- caftle, fituated on the fiimmit of a fteep hill near the fea ; and from the ftile of the architecture, efpecially the bafe of the old tower, which is of the Doric order, is thought to have been originally built by the Romans. But however that be, it muft have been a place of great ftrength, as it was the fanctuary of the Northumberland kings, earls and barons, when the country was threaten- ed by any invafion from an enemy. It withftood the fury of many fiege?, and was, for many years, the place of confinement for ftate prifoners. King Ofred, during his minority, fhut himfelf up with his tutor in this caftle, on the death of king Alfred, his father, in the year 705, in order to be fafe from the the violences of Eduiph, a rebel lord, with had feized upon the crown. Eduiph, with his partizans, befieged the caftle ; but the young king and his governor made fo gallant a defence, that his faithful fubjedts had time to march to his relief. The ulurper had changed the fiege into a blockade; but on their approach retired with great confufion. Brithric, the royal orphan's guardian, followed him, overtook the ufurper z.nd caufed him to be executed. This royal fabric was alfo the retreat of Waltcof, earl of Northumberland, when feeble with age, and theiefore unable to oppofe Malcolm, king of the Scots, at the head of a powerful army. But he was foon reliev- ed by the valour of his fon Uchtred. Enraged to fee his country invaded, Uchtred marched againft the Scots, at the head of a few troops haftily raifed. Thefe he clif- pofed to the beft advantage, animated them by his own valour and courage, and obtained a complete victory over the enemy. He would however have reaped a greater harveft of glory, had he not fullied it by an act of cruel inhumanity. He had among his prifoners feveral Srottifh noblemen, generals and officers of rank. Thefe he beheaded, placed their heads upon poles erected on the walls of the city of Durham. This brutal action fufficiently declared that his fpirit wag rather that of a tyrant than a hero. But , Uchtred's fuccefs, not his, cruelty, was regarded at the cpurt of his fovereign king Ethelred, where it was mentioned with raptures of applaufe. Ethelred, in his raptures, was refolvcd to {hew him one of the higheft marks of his favour. He gave him his daughter, the princefs Edgiva, in marriage, and with her the earldom of Noithumber- land, together with the county of York, for a portion ; old Waltcof refigning Hamburgh and other caftles to his fon, on his being thus allied to the throne. Penda, the Pagan king of Mercia, befieged this caftle in the year 642, after his victory over king Ofwald at Ofweftry in Shropfhire, a prince equally remarkable for his zealous patronage of chriftianity and bravery. Cruelty feems to have been the characteriftic of Saxon paganifm. The favage Penda, not fatisficd with the victory he had obtained over that Chriltian hero, bar- baroufly mangled his body, and intended to have re- duced this caftle to afhes for making a noble defence. He accordingly caufed a vaft quantity of wood to be piled up under the walls, and ordered fire to be fet to it as foon as the wind was favourable for carrying the fire into the place ; but the wood was no fooner in a blaze, than the wind changed, blew the flames into his own camp, and obliged him to raife the fiege. In the year 1 095, Robert Mowbray and his party march- ed into it for fecurity, on the approach of the royal troops to chaflife them for their treafon. William il. befieged it in perfon ; but Mowbray not thinking himfi'lf fafe in the fortrefs fkd to Tyn'emouth, where he took fanctuary at St. Ofwin's fhrine. He was however dragged from thence, and lent prifoner to the king. But his fleward and kinfman Morel, with a courage that would have done honour to a better caufe, defended the caftle in the abfence of his unfortunate lord, againft all the efforts of the royal army. The king, finding it impcflible to reduce the caftle by ftorm, turned the fiege into a blockade, and raifed a fortrefs near it called Malvoifon, or Bad Neigh- bour, fome time before the earl's flight. Morel was not however to be terrified ; he ftill i.eld out and fet the king's f rees at defiance. Ethelred, beginning.to.be alarmed at this aftonifhing intrepidity of the garrifon, determined to effect that by policy, which he could not do by force. Accordingly he ordered the earl to be led up to the very walls of the foitrefs, and a declara- tion to be made, that if the caftle was not furrendered his eyes fhould be immediately put out. This ftrata- gem fucceeded. Morel no fooner beheld his mafter in this imminent danger, than he confented to give up the place upon terms. The king pleafed at once by his fidelity and affection for his 1. rd, and his gallant de- fence, took him into his royal favour and protection. Thus the faithfulnefs of the fervant laved the Yifjp of the mafter, who was fent a prifoner to Wind for -cattle, where he was retained thirty years. Bamburgh-caflie commands a very extenfive profpect of the fea ; and in a clear day the town of Berwick up.,n Tweed, the caftle of Tynemcur.h, and the greater part of the coaft between them may be feen. But a ftately tower, with a Doric bafe already mentioned, is the only monument now remaining of its ancient grandeur. Below the caftle is the village of Bamburgh, once a royal borough, and accordingly fent members to parlia- ment in the twenty-third year of Edward I. it is now • an obfeure place, but ftill gives name to a large tract of country called Bambuigbfhire, extending fouthward to Waikworth-bridge. In the reign of king Henry I. a moriaftery of regular canons of the order of St. Auftin was founded here, fubordinate to the priory of Nafli!, in Yorklhire. Its revenues at the time of the fuppreilion were valued at one hundred and fixtcen pounds, twelve fliH lings and three- pence. Here was alfo an hofpital founded in honour of St. Mary Magdalen. King Henry III. in the latter part of his reign founded a houfe near the village, for the Fratres Prsdicatores, or Friers Preachers. The church of Bamburgh, founded by king Ofwald, is remarkably neat, and con'ifis of three broad iflc-s. Within a nich of the fouth wall of the chancel is the effigy in ftone of a knight templar, in the ufual habit and attitude ; and on the north fide of the chancel is a fmall marble monument, erected to the memory of Sir Claudius Foriler, with the following infeription : Scio quod Redempior mi'us vivit in Coeiis. Claudius Forfte-rus, eques auratus et baronettus, antiqua, numerofa, et nobiii Forfterorum farr.iiia in Com. • Northumbr. NOR T H U M B E R L A N D. 1 95 Northumbr. oriundus, Domini Nicholai Forfteri, filii fortiilimi illius viri, Johannis Forfteri, qui 37 annos medciarum marchiarum Scotiam verlus Dominus guardianus extitia, filius et hasres : ho- noratiffimis etiam Dominis Cumbriae et Bedfordiae comitibus, nec non infigni et illuftii Fenwickorum progenie, totitique generoforum genti inter Finam et Tucedam celeberrimo fanguine conjunctus. Caftri denique Bamburg norn'mus Senefcailus et conftabukrius : obiit in manerio fuo de Alba Terra in Com. Northumbr. anno falutis nohVre, 1623. Memoriae fuerum lugens pofuit uxor ejus Domina Elizabetha, Gulielmi Fenwick de Wallingtonia, equitis aurati, filia. Near this monument is another over the family of Sir William Fcrfter ; on which is along infeription con- taining the genealogy of his vvh ,le family. From Bamburgh-caOle we have a profpect of Farm- Ifland, the recefs oi St. Cuthbert. Here was after- wards a priory of fix or eight Benedictine monks, fubor- dinate to Durham. They received annually five quarters of wheat from the manors of Tughall, and ..... hoe;" belides which the corporation of Newcaftle upon Tyne paid them an annual rent of thirteen marks, and ten {hil- lings. In the reign of kirn* Henry VIII. it was granted to the dean and chapter of Durham. It was fuuated in the moll rcmantic part of the ifland, on a pleafant lawn, edged with rocks, by a fprir.g of frefh water. Near it was a fort erected for its defence, called Prior-caftte, from its being built by one of the priors of Durham. On the north fide are five other fmall iflands, confifting of bleak, barren rocks. A mile north from Bamburgh, is Budle, one of the manors of the barony of Alnwick, belonging to his grace the duke of Northumberland. The village is fmall, fituated above a fine fandy bay of the fea, on the fou'.h fide of the oftium of the river Warn, which is efteemed a tolerable good harbour for fmall vcfiels of about eighty tons ; being about feven or eight feet water in full tides. On Spinelton-hill, near Budle, is a Danifh intrench- ment, nearly round, encompailed with three deep ditches and a high valla to the north and leuth, and two at the weft, with a flope to the eaft, entered by a very wide port ; two exploratory mounts near it to the fouth, and another to the north. A little to the weft of this intrenchment is another, likewife Danifh, in the form of a crdcent, very large, with the fmall harbour of Warn, to the north, and a romantic precipice to the fouth ; three ditches and valla to the weft and fouth-weft ; the valla of turf and ftone ; and ftill in moft places pretty high. It has a molt ex- tenfive profpect on all fides of both fea and land ; of the two caftles of Bamburgh and Holy Ifland, and of all fhips palling and repafiing. About five miles from Budle, and three hundred and twenty-feven from London, is Belford, a fmall but well built town, on a gradual flope, within two miles of the fea, the profpect of which is intercepted to the eaft and north-caft by the ridge of a hill. At the north-eaft end of it ftands the church, dedicated to St. Mary. It was built in the year 1700, and fealed in 1759. On the top of the hill is the ruin of the old chapel ; and on the north-weft fide, by a fine fpring, is the antient manor-houfe. behind which was formerly a wood, of a mile in length, of large oaks, under a range of fteep rocks of whinftone, now flightly fhaded with young trees and bruih-wood. The town of Belford belongs entirely to Abraham Dickfon, Efq; that gentleman's father procured a market and two fairs to be eftablj/hed at it; but the Spirited conduct of the prefent owner is what has brought it to the condition, fo flourifhing to what it formerly was ; thirteen years ago it did not contain above one hundred fouls; but they now amount to above fix times that number : and this increafe has been owing to the excellent means of introducing an induftry unknown to former times. Mr. Dickfon has eftac.lifb.ed a woollen manufacture, which already employs fixteen looms, and the fpinning bufinefs goes on fufficiently to keep them at work ; a noble acquifitinn in a place where a few years ago a fpinning-wheel was not to be feen. Ano- ther eftablifhment of very great importance, was that cf a tannery ; the neareft tanners being thofe at Ber- wick and Alnwick. This was a very confiderable in- convenience and difadvantage to the neighbourhood ; Mr. Dickfon therefore, at the expercc of feven hundred pounds fixed a tannery, which now turns out to good account, and is a peculiar benefit to the Inhabitants. Another very great improvement and advantage this town has received, is the erection of a new inn, where travellers may be furnifhed with good poft-chaifes, and every other accommodation. Nor is it a lefs benefit to this place that Mr. Dickfon has by his fpirited endea- vours rendered the roads, both north and fouth, as iar as his influence extended, extremely good ; and had others been as follicitous as himfelf about fo important an object, there would not have been a mile of bad road in the whole country. Coals had formerly been rai fed round Belford; but ihe undertaking was difconunued for many years, from a belief that the pits v/ere exhaufted ; and the common report which this active gentleman heard on all fides was, that no more coal was advantageoufly to be had ; but far from being fatisfied with the general opinion of people, he not only enquired more minutely into the affair, but alfo tried feveral places, and was fo fortunate as to difcover a very beneficial feam, which has been fir.ee worked to infinite advantage both to the town and the proprietor. Difcovering of coal, led to the burning of lime for the purpofes of agriculture as a manure, is a much more confiderable way than had been before pcactifed ; and for this work three new iimc kilns were erected in a moft: fubftantial part, attended with a vaft expence. This generous gentleman has ftill greater defigns in view. He propofes to eftabifti firch manufactures, as may employ all* the poor of the country ; he jr.: Is to form a coal-road from his pits to the town, ant! he ^ven entertains hopes of making Belford a port, ft -h at the diftance of two or three miles from tb a; this will be of the higheft advantage to the tow.* nd c n cu markets for his coals, at piefent unthougbc of. . Mr. Dixon has erected feven new farm-boufes, with all the neceflary offices, all fubftantial ly built of brick and tile ; and on the fouth-eaft fide of the town he has built a very handfome manfion-houle for his own rcfi- dence. It is a large, elegant, modern ftructure, after a defign on .Mr. Pain's architecture. He has raifed various beautiful plantations, particularly the fhrubbery on the fouth fide of the houfe, planted "by a piece of water, under a femicircular rocky mount, on the top of which is a neat little tower, with port-holes; at an agreeable diftance to the fouth-eaft, near a Chinefe cottage, is an opening between two hills, through which is difcovered a profpect of the fea. Belftrd has a weekly market held on Thurfdays, and two annual fairs, viz. on Tuefday before Whit-Sunday, and on the twenty-third of Auguft, for horned-cattle, flieep, and horfes. A mile fouth-weft of the above town is an encamp- ment, nearly fquare, with a wide fofs, and a double rampier, the entrance into it is to the north-eaft. Five miles north from Belford, and to the left of the poft-rcad, is Kiley, the villa of Euftace de Kiley ; in which in the beginning of the reign of king Henry VIII. the ftuds of a knight's belt, and the hilt of a fword of mafly gold, were found between two ftones. They became the property of Dr. Ruthall, bifhop of Durham. This villa is fituated on an eminence, from which it has an extenfive land and fea profpect. The church is in afield at fome diftance from it. Oppofite to Kiley, on the right hand of the poft-road, is Lindisfarn, or Holy Ifland, which was a bifhop's fee, founded by "Ofvvald, king of Northumberland. Aidan, a Scotchman, was the firit bifhop, and pofleflld that whole kingdom for his diocefe. Hiftorians have given hi m an excellent character. By his prudent conduct, and the unwearied pains he took in the miniftry, he acquired univcrfal eftecm. His country idiom not being underftood NORTHUMBERLAND. underftood by a Saxon audience, the king himfelf be- came the interpreter of his difcourfes, which had fuch an influence, tha: innumerable numbers thronged to him to be baptized Nor is this to be wondered at, fince, beiiiles the advantages of his own eloquence, his humility and condefcenfion, uncommon affiduity and humanity, he had the example of a benevolent and pious king, and the countenance of the higi-.eft and belt men of the court. Aidan affected no ftate ; he travelled on foot, not by neceffny but choice, in order to engage the attention of the pagans, and induce them to embrace and love chrif- tianity His care for the poor was fo remarkable, that he was continually folliciting the rich to become their patrons and benefactors ; ufing every method in his power to gain them favour, procure them relief, and place them above mifery and diftrefs. After filling the epifcopal chair of Lindisfarn for feventeen years, he paid the debt of nature on the thirty-firft of Auguft, in the year 651, and was fucceeded by Finan, of the fame monaftery. This bifliop received orders from Gregory, the Roman Pontiff, to remove his fee to York ; but he difregarding the pope's commands, continued it here, preferring the mode of government in the Eaftern churches to that of Rome. Pinan built a cathedral church, which he dedicated to St. Peter; and, after the Scotch manner, thatched it with reeds ; but it was afterwards by another bifhop covered with lead. His pains in making converts to chriftianity were indefati- gable, and the fuccefs he met with amazing ; for he was fo fortunate as to gain two monarchs to embrace it, Penda, king of Mercia, and Segebert, king of the Eaft Angles. He is faid to have baptized thefe illuftrious converts at Wall-town, now Walton, twelve miles from Newcaftle. Finan, after having governed Lindif- farn ten years, died on the fourteenth of February, 661. He was fucceeded in the bifhopric by fixteen other bi- fhops, the moft confiderable of whom was Cuthbert, who received his education in the monaftery of Melro, under Fata, who had brought him with him to Lindif- farn, and fettled him in that abbey. His modefly and humility were exemplary; his charity was unbounded, and his temper remarkably amiable ; in fliort, he was not only a truly good man himfelf, but took infinite pains to make others fo, and had the happinefs to find his endeavours fucceed. He was blefled with great elo- cution, and had a perfon remarkably handfome and graceful. Finding his health declining, and unable to luftain the weight of epifiopal cares, he refigned his bifhopric, after having held it only two years. He fur- vived his refignation but two months, dying the twentieth of March, 687, at his hermitage in the ifland of Farn, and for his eminent virtues was canonized. About the year 783, theDanifh rovers made a defcent upon the ifland, cruelly ufed the monks, many of whom they put to death, and after having robbed, burnt their monaftery. The abbey church was, however, fpared ; and the bifhop with fome of his clergy efcaped unhurt. In the year 875, the Danes made another defcent, under their famous general, Halfden, who in that year made an entire conqueft of Northumberland, fet a king or viceroy over it, whom he dethroned the next year, and divided his kingdom among his officers, which had lafted three hundred and thirty years, from the time of Ida, the firft king. The bifhop on the firft news of their approach, fled with his clergy ; carrying with them St. Cuthbcrt's bones, which they were defirous of preferv- ing, and what other things they could of moft value. They wandered from one place to another without any fettled habitation, for the melancholy fpace of feven years. At length they fixed themfelves at Chefter-le- ftreet, then called Craig, and by the Saxons, Conceftre, from its fituation on the river Con, five miles from Durham, and feven from Newcaftle upon Tyne. Here the bifh enlarged his diocefe, by adding to it the va- cant on of Hexham, which had been without a bifhop for the fpace of fixty-three years. Both now go under the name of the bifhopric of Lindisfarn. From this time the religious remained in perfect tranquillity till the year 99c, when the Danes infefting this diocefe, the bifhop and his clergy thought it prudent to remove for their fecurity, with the remains of St. Cuthbert, to Rip- pon, where they ftaid only four months ; when hearing all was quiet again, the bifnop purpofed returning with his clergy to Chelter-le-ftreet, but a dream which he had on the road occafioned him to change his refolution, and fettle at Durham, where his fucceffors have ever fince continued ; and many of them been Alining orna- ments both to learning and religion. Their revenues became immenfe, from the pious munificence of thofe who held epifcopacy in veneration. The following ac- count of fome of their gifts will ferve as a fpecimen. King Hardicknute gave all the land lying between the river Tees and Tyne. King Canute ga\e Stainthorpe and Raby. King Ethelftan gave South Weremouth, with eleven villages, befides many church ornaments to his clergy. Stire, a nobleman, gave the lordfhip of Darlington, with its appurtenances, and two plow- lands in Lumley. Swaculph, fon of Kikell, gave the lordfhips of Bradburg, Morden, Grifeby, cum faca et facna. King William II. gave North Allcrton. Bifhop Walcber gave Jarrow. Tillered, abbot of Heffereham, gave South Yoden ; and bifhop Fgfrid gave the church and village of Norham. King Egfrid gave Chefter-le- ftreet. St. Cuthbert's fhrine had this privilege, that whoever fled to it fliould be fafe for thirty feven days. Such were antiently the powers and revenues of this bifhopric, called St. Cuthbert's Patrimony. It is ftiii believed to be the beft in England, being a principality, vefted with a large regalia, erected in times of con- fufion and rebellion, for the fecurity and defence of the borders. The monaftery occafionally mentioned, of Aidan's foundation, was under the government of the bifhops. The abbot and monks were the cathedral clergy. The cathedral and the neighbouring village of Fenham, the village and church of Norham, with other pcficiiions, were given by William de Carilepho to the monaftery of Durham. Here was afterwards a cell of Benedictine monks, fubordinate to that priory, which was inhabited, by many religious, both Seotch and Englifh. Ceowalph, king of Northumberland, abdicated his throne, and become a monk in this ifland ; but he couid not live in the auftere manner that the reft did, but indulged himlelf in drinking ale and wine, which they were obliged to allow him. This opened the way for the fame allowance to the other monks, which was at length changed into fcenes of riot. In the reign of Henry VIII. many accufations were brought againft the monks of this ifland, not only upon this account, but for their lewdnefs. The revenues of this monaftery were valued at the difiblution at forty-eight pounds, eighteen (hil- lings and eleven-pence, per annum. The cathedral has been a fplendid ftructure, of which there are ftill fome remains. Two towers are ftanding, alfo three ifles, with their beautiful pillars and arches, built with red free-ftone. On the weft fide, and within a fiw yards of the above fine cathedrai-ruin, is the parifii-church, dedi- cated to St. John, confifting of three ifles. The village is chiefly inhabited by fifliennen. To the north-eaft of it is a garrifon commanding the har- bour ; and at ebb tides, both horfe and foot may come from the main land to the ifland. Bcde very juiliy ob- ferves that it is twice an ifland, and twice a continent in twenty-four hours, it being every tide encompafied with water. It derives its name of Lindisfarn from its fituation by the oftium of Lind-rivulet, and the Celtic Fahern ReceiTus. Egelwine, bifliop of Durham, to efcape the vengeance of king William I. after the de- fection of Northumberland, in the year 1069, retired to it with his clergy for fecurity, carrying with them the church-treafure, the jewels, and the body of St. Cuth- bert, where they remained upwards of three months. It gives its name of Holy Ifland to a confiderable tract of country on the coaft called Holy lflandihire. The next we vifited was Berwick upon Tweed, fituated on the banks of that liver, three hundred and thirty-nine miles from London. It was originally called Aberwick, a word which in the ancient Biitifh tongue fignifies ■ NORTHUMBE RLAND. 197 fignifies a fort at the mouth of a river : but according to others, it was called by the Saxons, Beornicawic, which fignifies the town of the Bernicians, this part of the country being anciently called Bernicia ; others again derive the name from Berwica, which fignifies a corn- farm, there being great plenty of grain in the adjacent country. Berwick is pleafantly fituated on the fouth fide of an eafy declivity, on the north coaft of the river Tweedy, about half a mile from its conflux with the fea, three hundred and thirty-nine miles north by weft of London, and fifty-three fouth-eaft of Edinburgh. In- deed it is not properly in this county, or even in Eng- land, for in acts of parliament, and in briefs, it is al- ways diftinguifhed from England, as a town feparate, both from this kingdom and from Scotland. It formerly belonged to Scotland, and was the chief town of a county in that kingdom, ftill called Berwickfhire, and was one of the four towns, in which the convention of the royal boroughs of Scotland were held. It was firft taken from the Scots by king Edward I. and has been feveral times taken and retaken by both nations; but ever fince the reign of Edward IV. it has been in the poffeflion of the Englifb. The language and laws of its inhabitants are, however, a mixture of Scotch and Englifh. It has had feveral charters, fome of which are as ancient as the reign of Henry V. but the inhabitants were incorporated by king Charles I. and are governed by a mayor, four bailiffs, a recorder, and a common- council. The corporation enjoys a court leet, and view of Frank-pledge of all the burgelTes, inhabitants and refi- dents within their jurifdiction. The mayor has the Cuftody of the gates, pofterns and wickets. But the crown has referved to itfelf the caftle, built on the town wall ; all the edifices and buildings belonging to it; the water-mill near the wall, commonly called the Caftle water ; all the lands, tenements, clofes, and other here- ditaments, called by the names of the inner-caftle hills inclofed, and the outer caftle hills, not inclofed ; toge- ther with feveral other lands, meadows, &c. Berwick, which is now a town and county of itfelf, had once a famous caftle, now in ruins, but is ftill inclofed with a wall, erected by order of queen Eliza- beth ; and is further ftrengthened by its fituation, being almoft encompaffed by the river and the fea. The barracks form a large regular fquare, near which is the parade where the troops are exercifed. It is a large, well-built, populous town, and has a beautiful bridge over the river Tweed, confifting of fifteen arches, and is nine hundred and forty-feven feet in length. The church is large and capacious, and famous for the marriage of Joan, the filler of king Edward III. with David Bruce, king of Scotland. The bridge leads to a fuburb called Tweed-mouth, where there is another church. Between the town-wall and the caftle is another fuburb, called Caftlegate. It has alfo an exchange, and a good town-houfe, built of white free-ftone, a lofty turret, in which is a ring of eight bells, and a large clock, with four dials. The harbour is but indifferent, and navigable for veffels only to the bridge, though it is within a mile and a half to the bar, and the tide flows four miles and a half above th.e town. There is not above thirteen feet water on the bar ; nor is there any good riding near it in the offing. Berwick has a free-grammar fchool, founded by queen Elizabeth, a charity-lchool, a confiderable manufacture of ftockings, and a great falmon-fifhery. Some corn and eggs are exported from Berwick to London ; but the principal trade of the inhabitants confifts in the falmon, caught in the Tweed, and reckoned the beft in England. Large quantities of this fifh are pickled, put up into kits, and (hipped off for London. During the months of June and July, the heft frefh falmon may be bought at Berwick for a penny a pound. Many of the fmaller fifh are fent to London alive, in fmacks built for that purpife ; there being a well in the middle, bored full of holes for the free paf- age of the fea-water, in which the fifh are conveyed without injury. Thefe veffels are efteemed very fafe for 65 travellers, on account of their lying nearer the wind, and bearing heavier feas than any other. Sir John Grey founded a monaftery in Berwick, in the year 1270, for White-friars, one of the four orders of friars mendicants. They officiated in the king's chapel belonging to the caftle, for which they had the ufual falary given them by the crown. Before the year 1291, here was alfo a houfe of Preaching friars. An hofpital dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen in this town is mentioned in the reign of king Edward I. and the mafter and brethren of God's-houfe are mentioned, as being fettled in this town about the fecond year of Edward III. Here was likewife a houfe of the order of the Trinity, which being deftroyed by Anthony Beck, bifhop of Durham, another houfe of the fame order was built by William and Laurence Acton ; but the re- ligious were afterwards removed to Newcaftle. At South Berwick, near Berwick upon Tweed, David, king of Scotland, founded in the twelfth century a Benedic- tine nunnery. And at Tweedmouth, which is confidered as a fuburb to Berwick, was an hofpital, the mafterfhip of which was in the bifhop of Durham. Berwick fends two members to parliament ; has two weekly markets, held on Wednefdays and Saturdays, and an annual fair kept on the Friday in Trinity week, for black cattle and horfes. From Berwick we continued our courfe weftward for fix miles, and come to a pleafant village called Norham, or fituated on the Tweed, near the mouth of the hill, where was a caftle built by Ralph Elambard, bifhop of Durham, on the top of a fteep rock. It was moted round, and erected to preferve his diocefe from the fre- quent incurfions of the Scotch mofs-troopers. In the outermoft wall, which was the largeft in circuit, were placed feveral turrets towards the river, and within this wall was a fecond of much greater ftrength, which had in the middle of it a high keep. This caftle is now gone to ruin, it being of little ufe fince the union ; however, thofe parts of the wall that are ftill remaining, fhew that it was a regular, ftrong, well built caftle. At one end a large tower is prettty entire. Egfrid, bifhop of Lin- disfarn, built a noble church on the north fide of this village, no remains of which are now left ftanding ex- cept the middle ifle ; at the eaft end of which the foun- dations of a building were lately difcovered, and a ftone found with an infeription in Anglo Saxon characters. Above it in a nitch is the effigy of St. Peter, with the keys ; another of St. Cuthbert, and a third of king Ceolwulph holding a fcepter; the three patrons of Norham-church. On the reverfe is an infeription in Runic characters. On the ravage of Lindisfarn by the Danes, the body of St. Cuthbert was removed hither, where it remained till the time of king Ethelred. The village confifts chiefly of one long and wide ftreet. A mile below Norham, the Tweed forms an ifland of fourteen acres, by a den, called St. Thomas's Den. A little to the weft of it is a lofty terrace above the Tweed, where it forms a kind of ferpentine canal ; on the other fide of which is the feat of James Ker, of Ker's-field, Efq; and near it a craggy cliff inacceffible to human feet. Near half a mile further down the river, on the left hand of the road, two fmall urns were lately found in a gravel pit, called the Crooks, and near them feveral human bones. One of them is now in the poffeifion of Francis Blake, of Twizell, and the other of Henry Collingwood, of Cornhill, Efqrs. Halt a mile from the Crook is Twizell, the feat of the above-mentioned Francis Blake, Efq; who lately re- paired it, and made confiderable additions and improve- ments to the houfe, chiefly in the Gothic flile. Near it in a winding ftream flows the river Till, over which is creeled a ftone bridge, confifting of one ftrong and beautiful arch, nearly femicircular, ninety feet feven inches, from bafe to bafe ; and in height from the battlement, forty-fix feet two inches. Before the houfe is a range of rocks, carvenafe, fringed with various petrifications of mofs, and other fmall plants, formed by the drippings of water from the roof and crevices. 3 E In NORTH U M B E R I, A N D. In one part of it is a natural alcove, with mo r s-plants on its fides, beautifully variegated and gilded by thofe petrifying drops. In the center is a fh rt, upright ftone, in party-coloured, Iapideous clothing. Through the arch of the bridge you have a fine viev/ of a Hoping bank of hawthorn. The north-weft fide of the bridge is adorned with large quantities of pellitory of the wall ; a little below the bridge, on the edge of the Till, is an upright rock of a great fize, about twenty feet high, and gradually tapering to the top; near it is a fountain confecrated to St. Helen, by which is an antient fepul- chre, fuppofed to have belonged to the family chapel. A little higher up the Till is Helton, or Horton -caftle, which for many ages was in the pofl'eflion of a branch of the family of Grey, of Chihinghnm, barons of Wark. Sir John Grey, of Horton, going into the war in fiance, with Henry V. took by ftorm the cattle of Tankerville, in Normandy ; for which fervice king Henry created him earl of Tankerville, and knight of the garter. The two families afterwards became united, and upon the death of Ralph, lite lord Grey, the caftle devolved to Henry Grey, Efq; It has nothing of the appearance of an ancitnc caftle, except its being built with ftone, in a fomewhat antique manner. It was formerly a ftrong building nearly fquare. On the weft fide of it was a court, called the Lyons Court ; on the north iide was a vault in which a hundred horfe might be contained ; the whole of this noble fabric is now in ruins. King James IV. of Scotland, invefted it with his army before the battle of Floddon-field, but failed in his endeavours to take rt. It is now a very elegant country feat and belongs to the earl of Tankerville. In digging for ftones, two wells were difcovered by the workmen, in which were found four pewter plates, with part of the arms of the Greys engraved upon them. Not far diftant from hence are the ruins of Tilmouth- chapel, which appears to have been but fmall. The altar, window, and a bafon in a nich of the fouth wall are ftill remaining. On the north fide of the chapel the foundat ion of the miniffer's houfe is very confpicuous. The fituation is moft delightful, being on a peninfula Hoping to the two rivers. On the weft fide of the chapel on the banks of the Tweed, is a remarkable curiofity, of a ftone boat, as perfectly fhaped as any which are now ufed ; in which, it is faid, St. Cuthbert failed down the Tweed from Mebrofs to this chapel. It meafures ten feet long within; th:ee feet and a half in diameter, in the middle; eighteen inches deep; and four inches and a half thick. Half a mile weft from Tilmouth, a manor belonging to Francis Blake, of Fuizell, Efq; and on the left hand of the Berwick-road to Cornhill, is a ftone crofs, called Tilmouth-crofs ; below which, on the north fide, is an intrenchment, nearly fquare, called the Holy Chefters ; a great part of which is at prefent over-grown wiih furz. Oppofite to Linnel-houfe, and a quarter of a mile from Cornhill-bridge, on the brink of the Tweed, are the veftiges of a fort, trenched round, called the Caftle Stone Nich, erecled as a guard to the ford acrofs the river. Cornhill-bridge is a modern ftructure, confiftin°; of fix arches of white free-ftone. The parliament gave four thoufand pounds towards the building it ; and lord Home laid the firft ftone of the foundation in May 1763. At a (mall diftance from the bridge is Corn-hill, for- merly the villa of William de Cornhill ; and at prefent in the joint pofieflion of Henry Collingwood and Francis Blake, Ffqrs; A fmall, but neat church, ftands nearly in the center of the village. It was lately rebuilt, and the roof cieled. In digging up the old foundations, two lmall urns were found by the workmen ; but the real contents of them were never certainly known. In the church-yard is the following infeription on the tomb of an old man, an empyric, at Twizell: Eheu ! quis mortis jam retardabit falcem ? Archiater ille inclytus, ad pontem Twiiili, Jacobus Purdye, non vacat cegris. Obiit ipfe 4to die Decembris, A. D. 1752, et setat. 81. Et cum 2 Conjuge Jaria, nepte que Eleanora, fub hoc lapide tenetur. At bono fis animo viator fortafl'e vivas. Supcrftes Jacobo viget natus Samuel, fub patrio lare artes cxercens Patrias. Si qtireris fanitatum, hunc adi. The ftreet from the church forms a wide avenue, at the bottom of which is Mr. Collingwood's feat ; fituated on the declivity of a hill. To the weft of the h ufe are the gardens, from a fine lawn, in which you have a beautiful view of the fertile vale beneath, through which the Tweed takes its courfe in a winding current. From a bank on the oppofite fide, you have a delight- ful and extenfive profpect of feveral gentlemens feats, bounded by Cheviot- hills. A quarter of a mile fouth-eaft of Cornhill, is an in- campment, the moll remarkable of any north of the Roman wall, for extent, variety of military works, and covered ways : it is amazingly large and fpacious, and contains numerous curvatures, defended by ranges of terraced hills, and a morafs at feveral angles and fides of the hills ; many of them exploratory and fepulchral, of the ufual conic figure; the hollows remaining, and filled with water, from which the earth was taken for raifing them. They were the funeral repofitories of the great chieftains of the Romans. The remains of the com- mon foldiers are frequently dug up on the ridge of a hill, called Bleak Lands, they being buried without care or diftin£tion. Two miles weft from Cornhill, on the banks of the Tweed is Wark-caftle, which was once the barony of the ancient family of Ros barons, of Holmciley in York- fhire; but in the year 1400, by an inquifition it was found, that the caftle, manor, and village of Work belonged to Sir Thomas Grey, of Heton. It is at prefent in the pofieflion of Charles, earl of Tankerville, whofe feat is at Chillingham. The caftle is fituated at the weft end of the village, on a high mount of difficult accefs, circular, and feem- ingly raifed by art of earth and ftone. Part of the foundations are ftill remaining, and a fragment of the building, which at a diftance has the appearance of a column : fome couifes of the outer-wall on the north fide, which are of afhler work, are ftill entire : under it is a walk called the Maiden-walk; that is the Military way, or walk under the Maiden, or fortrefs. It is a beautiful terrace walk, five yards broad, and forty-eight yards long, delightfully fhaded with trees; on one fide, the river Tweed glides paft it; and on the other is a fteep precipice. On the weft fide the caitle are the out works, now called the Kemb ; that is the camp of the militia de- figned to kemp or flight an enemy; Kemp being a word often ufed by the borderers when they threatened in a paflion to beat an alTailant — they will kemp him— that is drub him heartily. , This intrenchment is a mile and a half in length ; the bread: works and covered ways ftill fair and confpi- cuous, the ditches deep and the rampier high, formed of earth and ftone. There are two fmall mounts at nearly an equal diftance, one about midway, and the other at the extremity ; each having a linear trench at the tcp, between the laft mount and the river, is a third of the fame form with the others ; near the fiift is part of the foundations of a chapel, now known by the name of Gilly's Nick, from its fitiiation by a port-way, and its dedication to St. Giles : there are many grave-ftones about it, fome Handing, and others flat ; over a Knight Templar is one large flat one, of free ftone, cn which is a crofs fculptured between two fwords. On the fouth fide of the rampier, near the caftle, is a piece of ground, called, the Battle-place; oppofite to which is terraced hills, called, Gallows-hill, being the place appointed for the execution of criminals ; and a little to the weft of it is a circular mount, called, the Gallows-hill-know ; being the burial place of thofe executed. A few years ago as fome men were digging they found a human fkeleton interred within a few feet of the furface. u NO R T H U M B E R L A N D. In the year 1383, the caftle was burnt by the Scots; and in 1523 they befieged it under the command of the duke of *\!bany, Sir William Lille beingjit that time governor. They croiTed the Tweed in the night of Saturday the thirty-firft of October, with a train of heavy cannon, with which they battered the walls till the fecond of November, when entering the town at the breaches they had made, they became matters of all the wards except the inner one, called the dungeon, which was bravely defended by Sir William and his gar- jifon ; and the earl of Surry coming up to their relief, they flew three hundred of the Scots, befides thofe who were drowned, and fuch of them as died of their wounds. It was at that time reputed a ftrong fortrefs. A few years ago, a cannon was found among fome rubbilh. Near a mile weft of Wark, is Carham-hall, the feat of Anth nv Compton, Efq; delightfully fituated on the banks of the Tweed. It is a handfome modern building, to which Sir Anthony has made confiderable additions ; and alfo great improvements to the plantations. From hence there is a fine view of the village of Carham, fituated higher up the river, at the weft end of which was formerly an abbey of Black canons, fubordinate to the priory of Kirkham, in Yorkfhire. In the year 137O, the Scots being on the point of crofting the Tweed at this village, laden with the plunder of the Englifh, were attacked by Sir John Lilburn and his brother; who, after a long and obftinate engagement, were both made prifoners. The village of Carham is fmall, but well built ; and furrounded with many plantations of young foreft-trees. The church, which is fmall, has been lately repaired. At the north-eaft end of the village is a neat and convenient houfe, built of ftone, and partly hewn work, belonging to the minifter ; erected by the prefent incumbent Mr. Richard Wailis. On the fouth fide of the village is a fmall hamlet, belonging to Mr. Compton, fituated on a hill, called, Shidlaw, a contraction of Shield-law. It was formerly a guard-hill, and exploratory ; from which is an exten- five and beautiful profpect into Scotland. A mile above Carham, a ftreamlet, called, Ryding-burn, empties itfelf into the Tweed, which is the boundary to the weft between the two kingdoms of England and Scotland. About two miles to the fouthward, from Comhill, on the Etall road, is a large upright pillar of whinftone. It meafures fix feet feven inches in diameter towards the bafe ; and was erected as a memorial of the great victory obtained over king James IV". of Scotland, by the carl of Surry, on Iriday, the ninth of September, 1513, and in the fifth year of the reign of king Henry VIII. This battle is called the battle of Brankelton, from the chief fcene of action being near that village ; it is alfo called the battle of Floddon, from the Scotch entrench- ments being on Floddon -hill, from whence they were artfully drawn to an engagement, by the earl of Surry's cutting off their retreat. Among the (lain was their So- vereign, with his natural fon, Alexander, archbifhop of St. Andrews, two other Scotch prelates, four abbots, twelve earls, feventeen lords, a great number of knights and gentlemen, and about eight thoufand, or as fome fay, twelve thoufand common men. King James fell near Brankefton, where he was the next day found by lord Dacres. On the fummit of Floddon-hill, is a natural rock, called the king's chair, from whence he had a good view of his own and the Englifh army, and for that reafon ufed frequently to fet there. The day after the battle, the ftandards, and twenty- two pieces of ordnance, taken from the Scots, were carried by the victors to Etall, among which were feven, remarkably handfome, and for that reafon called the Seven Sifters. We next pafs through the village of Crookham, where the diflenters have a handfome meeting-houfe. From hence en ffing the river Till at the Willow Ford, we come to Etall, a pleafant village, anciently one of the manors of the barony of Woller, but at prefent the feat of William Carr, Efq; father-in-law to the earl of Error. His feat is at the eaft end of the village, and lately rebuilt after a genteel defign. The fouth front appears to great advantage through an avenue of trees", as you approach it from the caftle of ford. Before the front is a flower-garden, lawns, gravel walks, edging of flowers and fhrubs, furrounded by a dwarf hedge of holly. The ftreet of the village forms an avenue from the weft front of the houfe to the ruins of the old c iftle on the benks of the Till. Thefe ruins have a very pleafing ap- pearance, there being two large towers ftill remaining. Four miles from Etall is a remarkable hill, called, Watch-law, once an epolatory, whence they obferved the motions of an enemy, and 011 their appearance alarmed the adjacent country, by fetting fire to the beacon. From the fufnmit to the bafe, the ground forms, on all fides, a regular and beautiful Hope. The profpect from the top is at once both cxtenfive and beau- tiful, efpecially that towards the fca, the coaft of Scot- land being feen to a confiderable diftance. A mile from Etall is another village, called, Ford, fituated on an eminence on the eaft fide of the Till, it confifts of one irregular ftreet, on the n rth fide of which ftands the caftle, lately repaired after a very hand- fome manner; from the battlements you have a variety of fine views, particularly one, of the winding courfe of the river below, the bridge over it, and l lie improve- ments made on its banks ; of the neighbouring plain, the inclofures, tillage, and plantations on divers little eminences; the whole beautifully terminated by fiveral ranges of the neighbouring hills and mountains, on tne tops of which are antiem karos and iritrenfchnien, called, Old Rothbury. It is thought to have been thrown up by the ancient Britons, and was long uied as a place of refuge in public danger, before the union of the two kingdoms, and a nightly watch was eftabliftied there. The little market town of Rothbury ftands about a mile from Old Rothbury, and two hundred and eighty one miles from London. It is fituated irl a low, but romantic fituation. The Coquet paffes through part of the town, and is there crofled by a neat ftone bridge of three arches. To the weft of the town is a beautiful valley, almoft enclofed with hilis and ridges of broken rocks. The market-crofs is nearly in the middle of the town, which confifts of three irregular ftree'.s. The church is built in the form of a crofs, and dedicated to All-Saints. The pavement within the communion rails is of che- quer work, formed of white free-ftone and blue marble. Againft a pillar by the fouth door is the effigy in relievo of a man drefted in armour, with a piftol in one hand, and a powder-flafk at his belt. Near it is a funeral monu- ment to the memory of George Fletcher, Efq; who left fix pounds, per annum, to the free-fchool of Rothbury. And on the north fide of the chancel is a mural monu- ment in memory of the Rev. Mr. John rhomlinfon, fome time rector of the parift), and who at his death left twenty pounds a year to the free-fchool, and one hundred pounds for building the fchool -houfe. Here is a weekly market on Thuriday, and three annual fairs, viz. Whit-Monday, Sept. twenty-one, and Thurfda/ before All-hallows day; for horned cattle, linen and woollen cloth. Three miles from Rothbury is Brinkburn priory, founded by William de Bertram, baron of Mitford, in the reign of Henry I. and dedicated to St. Peter. He placed in it black canons of the order of St. Auftin, from the monaftery of St. Mary de Infula. It is fituated under a hill, on the extreme point of a peninfula, on the northern bank of the river Coquet ; bordered on the other fide with a femicircular ridge of fhaggy rocks, covered with ivy, and a variety of plants and ftirubs^ which add greatly to this agreeable folitude. Great part of this venerable pile, together with the church, built in the cathedral form, were feveral years ago demoliftied, and the ftones ufed in building a dwel- ling houfe : but the large fquare tower of the church, a fmall fpire or fteeple, many noble pillars and arches, fome of the fide walls, and the dormitory, are ftill ftanding. Six miles fouth of Rothbury, the road crofTrs the rivulet of Font, over which there is a ftone bridge of one arch ; and from the brow of the hill, above the fmall hamlet of Ewflee, is a profpecl; of Nether- Wicton, the feat and manor of the ancient family of the Thorn- ton's. The old caftle is now in ruins. The prefent feat is a genteel, modern ftrudture of white free-ftone, with a flat roof. Before the fouth front is a grafs lawn, and between that and the river of Font, is a paddock of deer. At the fouth-weft corner is the parochial chapel 5 and on the eaft a declivity covered with a fine plantation of trees. The bank of both fides of the rivulet are beautifully {haded with trees. To the eaft of Nether Witton, on the fame fide the rivulet and fituated on the brow of a hill, is Stanton, formerly the feat of the younger branch of the family of the Fenwicks, of Fenwick-tower, and now in the pof- feffion of William Fenwick of Bywell, Efq; From the top of the hill, called, Liniel-Law, above Ewflee, is an extenfive land and fea profpecl ; and at the foot of the hill, on the right hand, is a femicircular lake, between two young plantations ; a rill entering it from the north, called White-Den-Sike. From the lake we afcend a hill, called Codgey-Crag, which brings us to a large plantation on the left hand, and a park, called Rotheley-park, well furnifhed with deer and game. In it, on a rocky eminence, is an ar- tificial tower ; near the entrance of which are two jaw- bones of a whale, feventeen feet fix inches long, and two fhoulder-blades of the fame fifth, three feet fix inches long, and three feet broad. By the road fide, 3 F and 202 NORTHUMBERLAND. and near the tower, is Rotheley, a fmall, but well- built, pleafant village, fituated on a rifing ground, be- longing to Sir Walter Calverley Blaclcet, Bart, who built the tower, raifed the plantations, and formed the femicircular lake before mentioned in imitation of nature. Two miles to the eaft from Rotheley, we have a view of Long Witton, an irregular village fituated on an eminence, at the eaft end of which is the feat of Wil- liam Swinburn, Efq; a neat ftrudlure, well fheltered to the north by tall foreft trees ; on each fide the houfe is a plantation, and fhrubbery ; and before it to the fouth is a grafs lawn, from which is a moft beautiful and ex- tenfive profpec~t. From the lawn is a pleafant walk fouthward of about a mile in length, which leads by a gradual defcent to a neat garden, under a bank of oaks by the fide of a rivulet ; towards the middle it is crofted by a fmall rill, called the Den-Burn ; by the fide of the rivulet is a grafs terrace ; and the oppofite banks are covered with brufh-wood. The garden is well furnifhed with fruit by means of a hot-wall, which extends an hundred and fifty yards. The gardener's houfe, which is of grotto work, and neatly fafhed, is pleafantly fituated on the brow of a hill, by the road fide, and overlooking the garden. Below it, to the north-eaft, is a winding path through the bank of oaks to a ridge of rocks, under which are three medical fountains, called, Thurfton- wells. A little lower down, the rivulet is crofted by the Ro- man caufeway, vulgarly called, the Devil's caufeway, a branch of the Hereman-ftreet, which appears very confpicuous for a confiderable way, in a pafture by the road fide above the hill. On the fouth fide of the rivulet, by the caufeway, is a bank of wood belonging to the vicarage of Hartburn, cut into many agreeable walks. On the edge of the rivulet is a grotto hewn out of a rock ; fome pleafing objects are let in here and there through the trees, fuch as a falling ftream, the Gothic tower and church at Hartburn, the rocks by Thurfton- wells, and Mr. Swinburn's feat of Long Witton. This romantic foiitude was formed by the prefent incumbent, the Rev. Dr. Sharp, archdeacon of Northumberland. We now pa!Ted on by means of a new ftone bridge of one arch, from Rotheley to Harterton-Burn, and from thence came to Camhoe, that is, the camp or fort on the hill, which was formerly the feat of Sir Robert de Cam- hoe, but is now in the pofteffion of Sir Walter Blacket. It is a fmall, well built, pleafant feat, with gardens and inclofures before it on gradual Hopes, and a profpecT: from it of the fea. Near a mile from Camhoe is Wallington, antiently one of the manors of the barony of Balbeck, but at pre- fent another of the feats belonging to the above-mention- ed Sir Walter Calverly Blacket. The houfe is a large handfome modern ftrudiure, of white free-ftone and hewn work ; and from the difpofition of the apartments appears to be very convenient. We were firft fhewn into fome common keeping rooms, a library, dining- parlour, &c. in which we remarked a piece of dead game, by Hubener, extremely well done; and another of dancing dogs, truly grotefque. In the dining-room, which meafures forty feet by twenty- one, the chimney- piece of white marble is very handfome ; and the cieling of ftucco work in fcrolls, very light and pretty. Here is alfo another piece of dead game by Hubener, fome of it well executed, and a needlework fcreen of tent-ftich, very elegant. The faloon is forty feet by twenty-two, of a good height, and in every refpecl a moft elegantly proportion- ed room. The cieling and the whole very neatly work- ed in ftucco ; the former coved, the center an oblong of mofaics, and the cove, fcrolls and feftoons. The chimney-piece is very elegant, of ftatuary marble polifhed : in the center, boys gathering grapes, in relievo. The furniture of this room is remarkably hand- fome. There are two flabs in it of very beautifully veined marble, or compofition, and under them very fine China jars. In one corner of the room is a noble China ciftern. The two girandoles of gilt carving for feveral candles, are exceedingly light «nd elegant ; and the china jars on the chimney-piece, very fine. The drawing-room is thirty-four feet by twenty-two, hung with filk and worfted crimfon damafk. The ciel- ing ornamented in ftucco, with light fcrolls, furround- ing a center of boys emptying a cornucopia. The chimney-piece of polifhed white marble, with feftoons of grapes, &c. Over it a landfcape, architecture and trees, in a light, glowing, brilliant ftile ; extremely pleafing, though not perfectly natural. The flabs are very elegant, the glaftes large, and the frames of both, very neatly carved and gilt. The drefling-room and bed-chamber are both hand- fome rooms , the former twenty-one feet fquare, and the latter twenty-two feet by twenty-one. To the eaft of the houfe is a large garden, in which is a pinery, fhrubberies, pieces of water, plantations, and other ornaments. In front is a park-like field gradually floping to the rivulet of Wahfbeck, crofted by an ele- gant flone bridge of three arches. Above it is a fmall ifland, below which the rivulet falls in broken murmurs from artificial Hopes of pebbles, forming a ferpentine canal between them for a confiderable fpace, in imitation of nature beautifully rural. The new kitchen gardens are excellently r difpofed, kept in admirable garden hufbandry, and the conveniency of water very great. The gardener's houfe is pleafantly fituated on the banks of the river ; and from feveral very neat bow window rooms, there is an -agreeable view of three water-falls in the river. Four miles from Wallington, on the left hand of the road, is Botham, a fmall irregular village, fituated on a rifing ground, in which is a fmall, but neat church. In this village is a fquare piece of ground encompaffed with a double trench ; in length one hundred and twenty yards, and in breadth eighty ; and a raifed poft-way lead* ing to it. It was originally defigned as a keep or fort for the fecurity of the town ; which, tradition fays, was antiently fo large, that it confifted of two hundred flated houfes. The Roman caufeway, a branch of the Hereman- ftreet, is very fair on Botham-moor ; it is nine feet broad, and raifed near a foot above the common level of the ground. By the fide of it is a cefpititious mount, with two upright ftone columns; funeral and religious monuments. On the north-eaft fide of the fame moor, is a rock trenched round, with foundations of buildings. On the right hand of the road, near Shortflat, we have a view of Cap-Heaton, the feat and manor of the ancient family of the Swinburns, and at prefent poftefled by Sir Edward Swinburn, Bart. It is a handfome mo- dern feat, built about the year 1668. Before the fouth front is a grafs-lawn, and a large park inclofed, with fmall clumps of foreft trees; the fpire of the temple at Belfay appearing through them from one view, and the precipice and village of Harnham from another. In the time of Sir John Swinburn, Bart, father of the late bir John, fome Roman facra and coins were found by his labourers in making a eaft for a hedge in a lane near his feat, called Silver-lane, from that difcovery. They fecreted all the coins, and fold them. The facra, or facrificing veftels being of filver, they likewife fold them, after breaking the bottoms out of fome, and the handles and ornaments oft" others. They however pre- fented thefe following to Sir John, now in the pofteflion of Sir Edward. A fympalum, weighing twmty-fix ounces. The bottoms of three other- ; 'me weighing a little more than a pound, the other half a pound. The handles of three more, with beautiful figures in relief and gilt. Upon one is the buft of a Roman em- peror; two fmall' r figures on each fide, one a fhepherd holding a crook in his left hand, and iwo or three fheep lying by his fide; the other, the relen.nlance of a poor man looking towards the emperor in a fuppiicatory atti- tude, his b dy bending, and refting with both hands upon a ftaff, with fomething like a load on his back. Below, on the middle of the handle, is a winged Mer- cury in a fitting poiture, with a Caduceus ir his rig ht hand, NORTHUMBERLAND. hand, his left refting on a bench or feat, grafping fome- thing like a ball, with a cock under him in the attitude of crowing. At the bottom are two other deities, {land- ing ; one a Diana, in a loofe robe, holding a fpear in her right hand, her left refting on her hip ; a dog look- ing up in her face. The other a Silenus, naked to the feet, holding a bunch of grapes in his right hand, and a nymphaea, or water-lilly in his left, with a canthera, or jolly flaggon by him, fwelling with the grape at the brim. On another handle are the figures of three animals flain for facrifice ; one a lion, another a flag, and a third a wild boar. On the third handle is the figure of a prieftefs before an altar facrificing, holding incenfe in her right hand, and a Thyrfus in her left ; above her head is the head of a bearded emperor, and at the bottom two other fmaller figures. Part of a handle, whereon is the figure of Mars in armour ; and below, a Flamen before the altar of a temple in a grove facrificing ; gilt and in relief. A figure of Hercules and Antaeus wreftling, finely executed ; the lion's fkin and club lying by them on the left hand. A Neptune naked to the waift* in a reclining pofture, holding his trident in his right hand, and an anchor in his left. The lane in which thefe antiquities were found is about a mile from the Roman caufeway. They feem by the workmanlhip to be as ancient as the time of Agri- cola, who made the grand roads in Britain, in whofe time the Romans wore beards, as exprefled in the two figures ; it not being the cuftom for that polite people people to wear any, from the four hundred and fifty- fourth year of the city, till the time of the emperor Adrian. Near the Roman caufeway is Harnham, or Hernham, that is the military way ; Harn or Hern, being a con- traction of the Roman Hermen, from Hermes, Mercu- rius, the god of travellers, and Cuftos Manium, and high ways ; and of the Saxon Hereman, or Hareman, a military road. It ftands on an eminence, and has been a place of great ftrertgth and fecurity, being defended by a range of perpendicular rocks of ftone on one fide, and a morafs on the other ; the entrance is by a narrow declivity on the north, which in the memory of fome perfons now living had an iron gate. The manor-houfe is on the fouth-weft corner of the precipice adjoining to an old tower. Two miles from Harnham, on the right hand of the road, is Bel fay, the feat and manor of the antient family of the Middletons. The village is fituated on the flope of a hill ; adjoining to the family (eat is an old tower ; and among a clump of trees in a field to the fouth-eaft, is a domeftic chapel. Seven miles from Belfay, on the left hand of the road, is a village called Pont Eland ; which, from its hame, was thought by Camden to be the Roman town, Pons /Elii, fince fixed by a late eminent antiquary at Newcaftle upon Tyne. It ftands on the banks of the rivulet of Pont, in a low fituation. The church is in the form of a crofs ; at the wefl end of which is a gallery, and on the front of it an infcription in gold letters, by which it appears that one Mr. Richard Coates bequeathed at his death feventy pounds a year, for the foundation and fupport of a charity-fchool in this village. Within the rails of the communion-table near the altar, is a fiat funeral ftone of blue marble, with this infcription: Sub hoc Marmore, Sitae funt mortales reliquiae Revd' Viri Henrici Byne, A. M. Coll. Merton apud Oxonienfes olim foici ; Hujus Ecclefise Parochialis de Pont — Eland modo vicarii ; fupremo tandem Die fundi XXVIII". Novembris Anno Salutis humani MDCCXXXI W . Cujus Memoriae facrum hoc • monumentum pofuit, Defiens. A. B. 203 Near it is another with the following infcription : Patris juxta cineres requiefcit Anna Byne, Forma et indole fpedlata virgo. Egregias natura dotes elegantiarum Artium ftudio excoluit ; Docilis, ut vix didicifle videretur ; Adolefcentulam dignitas matronalis, Rufticantem decor aulicus, Venuftate celebrem rara modeftia, Quoquo veftigia flectebat, fubfequebantur, Sociarum virginum deliciae et invidia major ; Dum ad apicem fcemineae laudis feftinabat, A. D. 1 74 1 mo. iEtatis i8 v0 - Variolis opprefla mortales exuvias Amabilis puella fubtus depofuit, Forma inviolabili renovanda. Elizabetha tali forore haud indigna, Funefti contagio confors aetat Anno i6 t0 . Juxta occubuit. Dileftis fororibus Ifabella faevi morbi fola vi£trix, Hortante matre mceftillima Hoc Saxum P. By thefe two flat funeral ftones there is another with this infcription. Thomas Robinfon S. T. P. Hujus parochiae per XXX annos vicarius, Prebendarius Peterburgenfis, nec non Landavenfis, Et Northumbnenfis archidiachonus. Vividum fuit illi ingenium, Literis humanioribus tarn probe excultum, Ut ad feria licet attentus negotia, Gratiis nihilominus litaret. Infirma a teneris valetudo, Aliis fibi defidiae caufa, Illi nulla obftitit Quo minus fibi mandata munia Graviter obiret. Fidelis verbi minifter, Impiger in pace confervanda jufticiariuSj Archidiachonus vigilatillimus, Adeo ut fi majora erant credenda, Haud indignus videretur. Quae fupererant interea, Ita domi componebat omnia, Ut non inopinanti tandem, vel trepidant^ Sed expectanti ultra, Mors arnica obvenirit, Anno aetatis LXI m °- Salutes MDCCLXImo. On the weft fide of the church-yard is a farcophagus, or ftone coffin, digged up in making a grave, which meafures fix feet four inches in length within, and fe- venteen inches over at the fhoulders. Being ( defirous of tracing the remains of the famous Roman wall, and infpecling the antiquities in the neigh- bourhood of that remarkable fortification, we crofted the country to Poltras, the rivulet on which that village ftands ; and which is there crofled by the wall, being the boundary between the two counties of Cumberland and Northumberland. The Roman, or as it is called by others, the PicVs wall, crofles the counties of Cumberland and Northum- berland from an arm of the Irifh fea, called Solway frith, on the weft, to the German ocean on the eaft 5 extending above eighty miles in length. This wall or fence was begun by the emperor Adrian, and built ia the manner of a mural hedge with large flakes driven deep into the ground, and wreathed together with wattles. It was faced with earth and turf, and fortified on the north with a deep ditch. In the year 123, it was re- paired by the emperor Severus ; and ftrengthened with feveral ftone fortrefles and turrets, near enough to com- municate an alarm one to another. The Romans being called from Britain, for the de- fence of Gaul, the North-Britons broke in upon this barrier, and in repeated inroads, put all they met with to the fword. Upon this the South Britons applied to Rome for afliftance, and a legion was fent over to them, 3 which » NORTHUMBERLAND. 204 which drove the enemy back into their own country ; but as the Romans at this time had full employment for their troops, it became neceffary for them to enable the South Britons to defend themfelves for the future; they therefore aflifted them to build a wall of ftone, eight feet broad and twelve feet high, of equal extent with the mural hedge, and nearly upon the fame ground. This wall was compleated under the direction of ./Elius, the Roman general, about the year 430 ; and the tracks of it, with the foundations of the towers, or little caftles, now called Caftle Streds, placed at the diftance of a mile one from another, and the little fortified towns on the infule, called Chelters, are ftill vifible. About a quarter of a mile to the esftward of Paltras rivulet, is a breach made in the wall by the Scots, which to this day bears the name of the Gap. From hence it is continued for a quarter of a mile nearly in a ftraight line to Thirl wall -caftie, formerly the feat of the ancient family of the Thirlwalls, and afterwards in the pof- feflion of the late right honourable Henry, earl of Carlifle. The caftle ftands on the weftern banks of the brook Tippal, whofe ftream flows under it in a winding current, guarded by a v Hum or wall of a prodigious thicknefs ; which, with the brook and a rocky flope, renders it on that fide inacceflible. Part of an iron-gate is ftill remaining at the entrance, within which, on removing the rubbifh in the year 1759, the flooring of a room was difcovered, confifting of three courfes of flags, one above another, a ftratum of fand lying between each. The walls now remaining are in fome parts three yards, and in others two yards and three quarters thick. The weft, for the fake of the ftones, is entirely demolifh- ed. It has been large and vaulted underneath, as moft of the old caftles were. At a fmall diftance from the fouth front of Thirl- wall-caftle, is an encampment, with a cefpititious ram- pier and fofs ; the firft pretty high to the north, now called the Black Dykes ; wherein, on digging turf for fuel, lead bullets have been frequently found. A quarter of a mile to the weft of this, there is another encamp- ment. The Roman wall crofTes the Tippal, under the fouth front of Thirlwall-caftle, and by a little cottage afcends the hill, for a quarter of a mile to the Roman ftation, Caer-vorran, fo called from the Britifh word, Caer, a town, and Vorwyn, a caftle, that is, a garrifoned town, Vorwyn, being corruptly called Vorran by the Northern borderers. The ftation or fort is nearly in the form of a fquare ; the grand wall making a flexure round it to the fouth, and then afcending the precipices. The groundwithin it meafures four acres and a half. At theeaft end of it a human fkeleton was found by the workmen employed in digging up the foundations for making the military road through Cumberland ; the ofleous parts, particularly the fkull and teeth, were frelh and fair; but on being expofed to the air, the whole turned to duft. A fmall but very fair Roman altar was found here fome years ago, inferibed, Deo Viterino ; alfo a fmall brafs lar, and a Roman ring, with a victor, engraved on a coarfe Cornelian. A curious and beautiful fculpture of a Roman foldier, in ftone of the white rag kind, within a nich and in relief, was likewife dug up near this ftation, in the year 1760; the figure was helmeted, a pallium or light robe hung down to his feet, faftened at the breaft with a fibula ; an hafta or fpear in his right hand ; in his left a parma, or fhield, refting on a fhort pedeftal ; above his fhoulder a lion recumbent, holding a deer between his paws. About a mile fouth-eaft of Thirlwall, is Blankenfapp- caftle, fituated on an eminence on the fouthern banks of the Tippal. The weft and north -weft fides of it are de- fended by a very high cefpititious wall, and a deep fofs ; underneath which is a vault, which runs thirty-three feet in length, north and fouth, and'eighteen feet and a half in breadth ; on the north fide of this are two lefler vaults. It has formerly been a very ftrong building, but the facing of the ,weftern wall has been deftroyed beyond the memory of any perfon now living in the neighbourhood. It is at prefent in the pofleflion of John Bienkenfapp Caulfon, of Jefraont, Efq; A beautiful Roman ftone altar was dug up here not many years ago, with the following inferi'ption Deabus Nymphis Vet*" Mansvetje Clavdue Vre^> N. H. L. A. I-Ivs. Near this was alfo found another ftone altar, inferibed as follows : Deo Vitirino Limeo — Rove P. L. M. From hence we proceeded by the wall from Caer- vorran, for half a mile, and came to a piece of it now ft.inding of the height and breadth of nine feet; and continuing our courfe half a mile farther, we came to Wall-Town, the lordfhip and feat of John Ridley ; from whence we palled on with the wall for a mile and a quarter, and then came to the ftation of Great Chelters. The ruins of this ancient place are ftill very vifible. The town, which was fituated on a fpacious flope, was nearly of the fquare form, but the angles obtufe, or rounded off. On the eaft fide of it is an altar in a patera fculptured on one fide, but the infeription is entirely effaced by the weather. Near it is another ftone, with the figure of a man in a niche ; his head gone, but his left hand refts upon his fide, and his right hand on a fhort column : there is not the leaft veftige of an in- feription. In the beginning of the year 1767, the workmen in digging the foundations of a building, near the upper end of the ftation, found a very large ftone with a long infeription, but imperfect by two fractures at the lower corners, whereby nearly half of four lines are wanting, befides fome letters. Part of the fecond line is alfo in- jured. The reft is perfect, and is as follows : Imp. Cas M. Avr Seve rus. Mencander. pee Aug. horreum vetv State corn, ar Jumm cho. 11. asturum sa a solo restivervnt province arcent maximo leg. w gprp . sal marti med lega tvs co. 11. et dext. The table is a fine rag-ftone, nearly fquare, with a handfome moulding. In the wall near this place a ftone was dug up in- feribed thus ; Pro Salvte Desidieni^ Leani Prje Et Sva. S. Posvit Vot Ao Solvit Libens. Tosco Et Basso Cass. At the fame place was alfo dug up a ftone altar, in- feribed DEJE SvRI-ffiSvB CaLPVRNIoAg. ICOLA Leg. Avg. PR. PR. A Licinivs Lemens Prtef. — III. A. Tor. Camden propofes to reftore the reading thus: Dea Suria, Sub Calphurnio Jlgrlcola Legato Augujii Propratai e, Licinius Clemens Prafeftus. About a quarter of a mile to the fouthward of the ftation, near a mill called the Wall-mill, is a funeral ftone fixed in the ground, with the figure of a child in a niche, and an infeription underneath, now very obfeure, being expofed fo long a time to the weather. It is four feet and a half above the furface of the ground. Hard by it is another fepulchral memorial, now converted into a poft for a gate, and called Wall-mill-gate. Upon a ridge of moor, at fome diftance from Wall- mill, are four tumuli, about twenty-eight ysrds afunder. They were ail lately cut through, and entire bones, with an urn filled with afhes and fait found in them. The fait was white, fair, and well preferved. The town of Haltwefel is fituated on the fouth Tyne, two hundred and fifty-feven miles from London. A manufacture of coarfe bays has been lately eftabiifhed here, to the great advantage of the labouring poor. It ftands on a rifing ground, and the church-yard forms a terrace, from which there is a'fine profpect of the valley and the winding courfe of the river. The church con- fifts of three ifles ; has a lofty roof, and the Gothic win- dow above the altar is large and ftateiy. Here is a free- fchool endowed by lady Capel. The weekly market, which is held on Thurfdays, is fmall and inconfiderable ; but there is a well frequented fair on the twenty-fixth of Auguft, for black cattle, fheep, linen and woollen cU th. 1 A little NORTHUMBERLAND. 205 A little to the ea Award of the church, on an eminence, are the veftiges of a fort, furrounded by a wall of earth on all fides except the fouth, where there is a pretty itcep Hope. The profpect from this ruined caftle is very pleafing. The river is foon loft under hanging woods, between which the meadows and corn-fields form a fpacious area. A little below Haltwefel, the river Tyne is croffed by a ftorie bridge, conGfting of one bold arch, founded by a rock at each end, called Fetherftone-bridge ; and about half a mile above it is Fetherftone-caftle, the feat of the ancient families of the Fetherrtonehaughs. The caftle is vaulted underneath, and has two exploratory turrets, one on the north-weft, and the other on the fouth-eaft. It ftands in a low fituation, in a fertile vale or haugh, on the eaft bank of the Tyne. About two miles farther on the weftern bank is Lambley, where thtre was formerly a priory of Benedic- tine nuns, dedicated to St. Patrick} but the founder is not known. There were fix nuns in the priory at the fuppreflion, when their annual revenues were valued at five pounds, fifteen {hillings and eight-pence. The fpot on which the convent flood, was fome time fince wafhed away by an inundation of the river Tyne. About five miles from Lambley, and on the fame fids of the river, is Whitley-cafile, formerly the Roman ftation Alione. It ftands on an irregular flope by a rivulet of the fame name ; the famous Roman military road, called the Maiden-way, coming to it from Caer- vorran. A detachment from the twentieth legion, called Valens Victrix, repaired itj as it is evident from a centurial ftone, infcribed, VtXILATIO LEGIONIS VICCISSIM^E V. V. REFECIT. It is alfo evident from two infcriptions on altars, in- fcribed to the emperor Caracalla, that the third cohort of the Nervii was ftationed here. Alione is thought to have been garrifoned by the Ro- mans, till their whole army left the ifland. The ruins are large, and the ramparts and ditches ftill very confpi- cuous. In the church-yard of Kirk-haugh, on the other fide of the Tyne is an altar, infcribed, De^ Minervje et Herculi VICTOR!. About a quarter of a mile from the bridge over Halt- wefel-burn, on the military road, are three upright pillars of whinftone, two of them broken off" near the middle. They are fuppofed to be religious or funeral monuments of the ancient Britons ; but when they were creeled is unknown. A little farther on the military road is a view of the Roman ftation, called Little Chefters, eafily diftinguifh- ed by a clump of trees and brufh wood, forming a kind of natural arbours, and hence it has obtained the name of the Bowers. The ftation is of the ufual form, nearly fquare, containing about an acre and a half ; and the wall round it, compofed of ftone and earth, is very fair. On the fouth is a deep ditch, or hollow ; and on the eaft a pleafing rivulet, called Bardon-burn. The Via Vicinalis from Caer-vorran to Walwick- Chefters, runs along the noith fide of it, and on which a Roman military ftone is ftill (landing, near a gate, called Caudley-gate, near the brink of Bardon-burn. A mile to the weft of this, and in a ftrait line, is another military ftone. Thefe mile-ftones are in fine prefervation, fix feet four inches in diameter, and about the fame height above the ground. They are of around figure refembling large rollers. Several Roman antiquities have been dug up here: and lately a Roman hypocauftum, or fudatory, was alfo difcovercd, and of which the late Mr. Warburton, So- merfet-hcrald, has given the following account : " Some years ago, on the weft fide of this place, about fifty yards from the wall?, there was difcovered, under a heap of rubbifh, a fquare room, ftrongly vaulted, and paved with large fquare (tones, fet in lime ; and under this a lower room, whofe roof was fupported by rows of fquare pillars of about half a yard high : the upper room had two niches tike chimneys on each fide of every cor- ner or fquare, which in all made the number fixteen : 66 the pavement of this room, as alfo its roof, were tinged black with fmoke. The ftones ufed in vaulting the upper room have been marked as our joiners do the deals for chambers j thofe I faw were numbered thus, x.xi.xiii." In digging up the foundations of a caftellum, or mili- tary turret, in the wall, in an opening of the precipice by Crag-Lake, called Laugh-End-Crag, or Milking- Gap, to the north-eaft of this ftation, a very large cen- turial ftone was found by the workmen, infcribed thus; Imp Caes Traian Hadriani Avg Leg II. Avg A Platorio Nepote Leg. P. R. P. R. A large ftone, in the form of an altar, was likewife dug up at this ftation, with the fculpture of a red deer in the center, leaning a^ainft a tree, and two fawns at the bottom in relief. It was two feet thick, of the fine white rag, adorned with mouldings. Many ftags horns have alfo been dug here, fome of an unufual fize ; and a temple, fuppofed to have been built in honour of Diana, was difcovered by fome ma- fons who were digging for ftones. It appeared to have been very beautifully adorned with Doric pilafters and capitals. Jn the fouth-weft end of the well-houfe, at the weft end of the ftation, is an altar infcribed : Marti Victori Coh III. Nerviorvm Prefect I. Caninivs. -^^^i It is thirty-feu'- inches long, and twelve inches and a half broad. The infeription within a neat moulding or raifed border ; but much injured by the weather, though cue on fo durable a ftone 2s the white rag. On the other fide of the Tyne, by the confluence of the brook Allen into that river, is Ridley-hall, anciently belonging to the Ridleys of Willimotefwicke ; but at prefent the feat and lordfhip of William Lawes, of Newcaftle, Efq; The houfe, which was built by its prefent owner, is fituated on a rifina; ground, the fouth front of brick. Before it is a pleafant garden, from which, to the fouthward, is a fine terrace walk, with the Allen on one fide, and a hanging wood on the other; near its termination is a precipice of broken rocks, called, the Raven-Crag, from its being the refort of thofe birds. Oppofite to Kings-wood, and a mile and a half from the Raven Cragg, on the eaftern banks of the Allen, is the ruin of Steward'*le Peel, or Steward-caftle, fituated on the ridge of a rocky peninfula, or promontory, be- tween the Allen and Haifingdale-burn, a fmall rill : it is entered on the eaft by a narrow, lofty terrace, whofe fides are cloathed with trees, through which appears rocks and precipices ; under it is a triangular area in tillage, with a hut in the midft of fome fcattered trees, the Allen palling by in broken murmurs, enlarged by the ftreamlet of Kings-wood ; a femicircular hanging wood adorning its weltern margin ; the rocks of Shew- ing Sheels, and the villa of Torngrafton, in view to the north. A fragment of the gateway is ftill ftanding, where was formerly a draw-bridge, an iron-gate, and port-cullice. There are alfo nine courfes of it ftanding at the weft end, of the white rag-ftone and hewn work, the cement of which is fo ftrong, that one ftone can hardly be feparated from another without breaking them ; it is guarded by a afofs, and a vallum of earth and ftone. It anciently belonged to the friars Heremites of Hexham ; granted, with its demefnes, by Edward, duke of York, to hold by the annual payment of five marks. It [is in view from High, but now from Low Staward j as are many of the beauties of the Allen, whofe banks, from its oftium to its alLciation and union with Eaft-Alkn, prefent us with fuch groups of rural imagery as are not to be furpafied by any fpot in this county. Among others is a crag called Juda's-Crag, well known to hunter?, for affording protection to foxes, in their diftrefs by the chace. About a mile and a half from High-Staward, under a hill, the two Aliens pafs in a pleafant ftream, imme- diately after their junction, through a handfome new 3 G bridge 'iob NORTHUMBERLAND. bridge or three arches, of white free-ftone. At the oftium of Weft Allen is a lead-refining mill, called, the Cupilo, belonging to a wealthy company of quakers. On the weftern lliady margin of that rivulet is a hand- fome road, about a mile and a quarter in length, leading to Whitiield-hall, the feat of the ancient family of the Whitfields ; at prefent poiTtfled by William Ord, of Fenham, Efq; who hath made confiderable improve- ments, by buildings, inclofures and plantings. The houfe Hands at a fmall diftance from the village, on a rifing ground, by the ftreams of Welt Allen, the caftern boundary between this manor and that of Hex- hamfhire. Before the eaft front is a hanging bank of wood, called Monk, remarkable for its beautiful hollies. From a limeftone-rock, about a mile to the fouth, there is a water-fa!!, by a precipice of a prodigious height nearly perpendicular. At Limeftone-crofs, in the manor of Whitfield, there was formerly a lead-mine; and on Whitfield-fell is a chalybeat fpring called Redmires. About a mile from the Cupilo is Old Town, fituated partly on an eminence, and partly on a Hope, extending to Eaft Allen. There is a houfe fituated next the moor, called Stony Law, from a little craggy mount, compofed of earth, and large fingle maiTes of coarfe rag Itone, ftreaked with red and white. A quarter of a mile to the eaft of it, upon the moor, is a hillock of ftones, whereon, about fourteen years ago, flood an upright piece of timber, or pole, called Catton-beacon ; to which was affixed a veiTel with fire in it, to alarm the country on any public danger. At a fmall diftance from hence is Allen-dale-town, fituated on an eminence on the banks of Eaft Allen. It is inhabited chiefly by miners. The church is fmall, confifting of one ifle ; near the altar is a flat fepulchral ftone to the memory of John Beacon, Efq ; and his wife Cicilia. At Bride's-hill, near this town, is a free-fchool, founded by Mr. Chriftopher Wilkinfon, of Chapel- houfe, who endowed it with two hundred and fifty pounds. It had feveral other endowments ; and in the year 1704, the fchool-houfe was built, which coft fifty pounds. By a gradual afcent from this town, a road leads fouiliward over a moor to the village of Allen-Heads, inhabited alfo by miners; both belonging to Sir Walter Calveriy Blacket, Bart. Sir William Blacker, Bart, erected a chapel here for the conveniency of the miners, and appointed a minifter to officiate in it, on whom he fettled afalary of thirty-pounds, per annum. Sir William alfo gave ten pounds, per annum, to a fchoolm after, for teaching the miners children to read and write. To the eaft of, and half a mile from, this mineral village is the mountain, called Shorn-gate, over which the Scots made a road by paring the mofs, and rolling in ftones in their precipitate retreat homewards from Stan- hope-park. The boundary-line, called the Scotch Dike, extends from this place northwards by Catton-beacon, and crofles the Roman wall at Bufy Gap. There being nothing more remarkable bv the ftreams of the two Aliens, we continued our journey on the military road for about two or three miles, and came next to Houfe-Steeds, the ruins of a Roman town named Borcovicus, feated by the Roman wall, and is the place where the firft cohort of the Tongri, a part of the Roman army, lay in garrifon. There is no place in Britain that has equalled this with refpect to the extent of the ruins of the town, and the number, variety, and curiofity of the fculptures which yet remain there. Mr. Horfley has given fixteen of thefe, of the moft curi- ous of which we fhall give a defcription. The follow- ing is an altar found lying on a large ruinous heap, now called Chapel-hill, fully expofed to the injuries of the weather. It bore the following infeription : Et NOMINIBVS AVG. COH. T. TvNGROR. Avi. PRJE. Est Q. Ivl. Maximvs Pr-sf. Another bore the following infeription : Ni~ Veno Rr G. Osersionis Romvlo A— Ima- tri— Mansveti Oseni Cioni — Re Vince Qvar- ttonis Ere Si Procvravit. Delf Vsravtiovis Ex. G. S. On a third beautiful and fair altar was inferibed as follows: T. O. M. 3." Nvminibvs. Ave. Coho. T. 1 Tvngrorvm Mil. Cvi. R CEst. Verivs Su- PERSTis Pr^efectus ; which may be read thus : Jovi Optimo Maximo Et Niuninibus Augufti cohors prima Tun- grorum mi lit urn cui prae eji £)iti,.tus Ver'tm Superjlis Praefefius. The unufual fhape of the I for Jovi is remarkable. In the fame ruinous heap was found another altar, which was alio in a pretty perie£t ftate. At the bottom of a field fouth-eaft of this ftation were many more fcupltures and altars, and the vilible ruins of ftreets and buildings. At the edge of the fields where the Roman town flood, iVlr. Horfley found 1 ine inferiptions and fculptures, moft of them erected by the fame cohort of the Tungrians, among which was the following, erected to the o-od Mars, by Quintus Flonus Maternus, prefect of °the fame cohort : the globe on the bafe of the altar v. as very remarkable; the infeription war. as follows : DEO Martiqvin. Florivsma Ternvsfraef CoHITVNG V S L M. which is to be read thus : Deo Marti ghtintus Fhr'ius Maturnus fraefeftus colortis primae Tungrorum v:tum folvit libens merito. At this place are likewife feveral curious fculptures, moft of which are defcribed by Mr. Gordon ; but Mr. Horfley fays, the accounts given of them in Camden's Britannia is not very exact. Among thefe is a Victory ftanding upon a globe winged, with the ufual drapery, done in alto relievo. The figure of a Roman foldier at length, in the ufual military drefs, a poniard in his right hand, and a bow in his left; his fword hung at his girdle, and his quiver of arrows on his right fhoulder: another figure of a foldier in his acoutrements ; his two belts are vifible croffing each other, agreeable to the defcription of Ajax's armour in Homer. But there no pafs the croffing belts afford, One brae'd his fhieid, and one fuftain'd his fword. Pope. Another piece in relievo confided of three female figures feated, which plainly appear naked up to the knees, and are, with great probability, fuppofed to be local goddtfies, or the Deae matres, or campeftres. There are alfo three female figures reprefented together, at two other places in this Roman ftation. Befides many other inferiptions, here was found a re- markable piece of fculpture in relievo, reprefenting Mercury with his caduceous in his left hand, and purfe in his right. Ab>ve his right arm, is fomewhat like the cap of Liberty, but the head of the figure, and the upper part of the ftone, is broken and confuted. On the fide of Mercury is an altar with this infeription upon it, deo Mercurio, and a Camillus lays the incenfe on the altar. This ffone was found by Mr. Warburton, who pr».fented it to the Royal Society, in whofe mufeum it now is. At Cockmount-hill in this neighbourhood lies a cu- rious piece of fculpture in relievo, firft taken notice of by Mr. Gordon, but in his draught of it he has omitted two eagles, on whole wings the victories ftand that fup- port the vexillum. Each eagle refts upon the branch of a tree. At the bottom are two boars, and that on the right plainly appears to bite the ftock of the tree on that fide. Mr. Horfley makes no doubt but that the boars and the trees were deligned to reprefent this wild and woody country, as it then was, and that this fculpture plainly denotes the conqueft of this country by the Romans, their victories over the inhabitants, and their making a fettlement here, in oppofition to all the attemps of their enemies. The heads of the eagles are broken off", but the reft of them is ven? diftindl. Continuing our journey from hence fouthward we came to Langley-caitlc, formerly the ancient feat of the barons N O R T H U M B E R L A N D, barons of Tynedale. The caftle is fituated on a rifing ground on the fouth fide of the Tyne, in the form ol the Roman letter H, with four towers Handing north and fouth ; many of the windows large ; four fmall fire- rooms remaining entire to the eaft, befides eight others, four ground-rroms to the eaft, and as many to the weft ; the roofs arched with {tone ; the walls are fix feet ten inches thick ; and the north-eaft tower fixty-fix feet high ; to the welt, the fofs or ditcl"fcii-Afrll vifible. In view from this caftle, about a mile to the north- eaft, on the banks of the Tyne, is its appendent manor and village, called Hoyden-bridge; to which the firft Anthony, lord Lucy, procured a weekly maiket on Tuefdays, and an annual fair on July the twenty-firft, and three days after; but thole are now discontinued. The Tyne is here crofted by a bridge of fix arches ; on the fouth fide of it, on a little eminence, is a grammar- fchool ; over the entrance of which is the following in- fcription ; Haec fchola fundata et Munifice dotata fuit anno Domini MDCXCVII. a Reverendo et doctiffimo viro domino Johanne Shaftoe, A. M. ecclefiae Netherwarden in hoc agro vicario ; In tam benigni capitis elogium Deefte nequit : hoc unum opus pro Cundtis aliis iuis beneficiis fama loquetur. For the ufe of this fchool, and the relief of poor houfekeepers within the chapelry of Hayden, the Rev. Mr. Shaftoe, vicar of Netherwarden, left his eftate of Moufen, near Belford, which eftate now lets for up- wards of one hundred and fifty pounds, per annum. The grammar-mafter, who is obliged to be of the degree of mafter of arts in one of our univerfities, has a falary at prefent of upwards of fifty pounds, and the ufher, five pounds, per annum. On the right hand of the military road is Carraw- Brough, the Roman ftation Procolitia, garrilbned by the firft cohort of the Batavi, as attelted by an altar found near it infcribed thus : Fortvnae Coh. I. Batavor Cvi Praeest Melaccinivs. Marcellvs' Prae. The firft notice taken of it was by Dr. Cay, by whom a copy of it was prefented to Mr. Thorfby, and publifhed in the Philofophical Tranfaetions. It was then in fine prefervation, the ftone handfome, and the infcription fair. Carraw- Brough derives its name from the Saxon Burgos, or Brough, and the great emperor Caraufius, who obtained that memorable fea victory over the two emperors Maximilian and Dioclefian, on the coaft of the Ifle of Wight, near Carifbrook-caftle, fo named in ho- nour of the victor, Caraufius. A curious fculpture of Neptune, down to the knees, in a reclining attitude, with his trident by him in ftone of the fine white rag, was dug up at this ftation, and built up in the eaftern gable of a cottage at Carraw. From hence we proceed by a gradual afcent to Tone, the fe2t of Alan Hodftion, Efq; who has made con- fiderable improvements at it, by repairs and additions to the houfe, and by inclofures, hedge-rows, and planta- tions about the grounds; and likewife by rendering the roads extremely good. We have a fine view from this feat of Chipchace- caftle, anciently the feat of Peter de lnfula. In the reign of king James I. it was in the poffeifion of Colo- nel George Heron, who built, adjoining to the old caftle, a very handfome ftructure ; the initial letters of his name G. H. cut in ftone, on each fide of his coat of arms, with the date of the year, 1621, above the fouth entrance. It was many years after purchafed by the late John Reed, Efq; who added much to its beauty, by fi lling the whole building, making gardens, plantations, and enclofures ; rebuilding the chapel, and finiftiing it neatly. It is at prefent in the poileflion of Chiiftopher Reed, Efq; nephew of the above gentleman, I who has likewife made confiJerable improvements to tli e feat by additional buildings to the houfe, which he has laid open to groves and plantations ; and by throwing the fields before it into the form of a park. Chipchace is delightfully fituated on the declivity of a hill, to the eaft of the river of North Tyne ; from it is a beautiful profpect of Nunwick, and Simonburn-caftle, diverfified with the view of woods, moors and rocks, and of the winding motions and meanders of the Tyne ; which, oppofite to the houfe, forms a large deep canal, over- hung on one fide by a woody bank, and on the other by a fhady projecting cliff". Under the hill on the left hand, a road branches oft" to Nunwick, formerly a village, but now the feat of Sir Lancelot Algood, Knt. who himfelf erected it after a genteel defign ; of white free-ftone and hewn-work. It is fituated on a rifing plain, which to the eaft has the appearance of a park. The offices are to the north, a grove to the weft, a grafs lawn to the fouth, and ter- raced gravel walk to the eaft, which commands a view of Chipchace at one end, and a variety of profpects on the other. Two brooks here unite their loquacious ftreams, which gives an additional beauty and ornament to a neat garden, and renders it at once, not only an entertaining, but ufeful recefs : from hence they take their courfe through another grove, on the declivity of a hill to the fouth front of the houfe, and fall two or three fields below into the river of North Tyne. In an adjoining field, called, Nunwkk-e.ift-field, were five upright ftone pillars, in a circular order ; four of them perfect and entire in 17 14, the other broken ; the perfect ones eight feet high, and nine feet an 1^ a half over; the circumference of the area in which they ftood, ninety feet. This was the kind of cirques, in which the Britons held their public afTcmblies, both civil and religious. Sir Lancelot has given a new face as it were to the country round Nunwick, within the (pace of a very few years, by making plantations, enclofurcs, and good roads, one of which leads to the village of Simon'ournj at the diftance of a mile from his feat. This village is fituated on a rifing ground, by the fide of a pleafant brook, from which, and the dedication of the church to St. Simon, it takes its name. It is remarkable for being the largeft parifh in the diocefe, extending; northward from Chollerford-bridge to Liddefdaie, in Scotland ;. an extent of twenty-three computed, or thirty-two meafur- ed miles; in which are only two chapels of eafe, Bel- lingham and Falftone. The Rev. Mr. Henry Waftell, the prefent rector, has made confiderable improvements to the rectory houfe, the fouth front of which he has en- tirely rebuilt, and greatly repaired the whole building, which was originally built by Algood, grandfather to Sir Lancelot. The following infcription, though much injured by the weather, is ftill remaining over the en- trance of the houfe : Non tam fibi, quam fuccefToi ibus fuis, Hoc aedificium extruxit Major Algood, anno mirabili, 1666. Nunc mea, mox hujus, fed poftea nefcio cujus. Tn 1763 the church was repaired, the walls of the fide ifles raifed ; three fain-windows put in on each fide, and another at each end to the eaft. By the pulpit and window at the eaft end of the fouth ifle, is the effigy in ftone of one of the antient family of the Ridley's. Near him are three of his family, and under him the following infcription : Sensus Vivus. Recordor Misericordiam Dei Eripientis Ex Hac Vita In Vitam CEternam Albanium Ridley, Filium Cuthberti Ridley Miseri Peccatoris, Anno Dom. 1625. Above this ftone figure are two others with this in- fcription : DefectUs Memorise. In the year 1762, in digging a grave in a pew under one of the windows, a very remarkable fkull was turned up with the fpade ; on the back part of it, the figure of a large \ N O R T H U M B E R L A N D. a large fcollop-fhcll ; and at one of the auditories, of a torctlhif (hdl like a fcrew. On the fouih fide of the chancel, within the commu- nion-rails, is a flat funeral- ftone to the memory of Giles Heron, of Wark, in this parifh, interred in the year J684; who by induftry and extreme parfimony acquir- ed the fum of eight hundred pounds, which he left by will for the relief of the poor of this parifh, the mainte- nance of a fchoolmafter at Wark, who has a falary of twelve pounds, per annum, and the binding out the poor children apprentices. In a grave in the church-yard, about three feet below the lurface, a fmall, bright filver coin of king Edward II. was found in 1756. On the obverfe is the profile of that monarch ; and on the revcrfe, civitas Lincoln, the place of mintage. About half a mile north-weft from the village of Simonburn, is Simonburn-canie, which belonged to the Herons of Chipchace ; but was fold with its manor and demefnes by bir Charles Heron, Bart, to Robert Algood, Efq; and is pofTefTed by his fon-in-law, Sir Lancelot Algood, Knt. It is fituated on an eminence, (haded by tall fir and beach trees, a fmall ftream, carry- ing the name of Caftle-burn, gliding under it, between two hanging wcods. This caftle was demolifhed by the country people, from a firm perfuafion they had enter- tained of there being a confiderable quantity of hidden treafure under it; but to their great mortification, they found after they had pulled it down that it had been all labour in vain. Part of the weft end was rebuilt in the year 1766, with two fmall turrets at the angles. It is a pleafing object in many profpecls, and may be feen at a confiderable diftanee. Seven miles north from Simonburn, on the eaflern banks of North Tvne, is Billingham, a fmall, but well built pretty town, belonging chiefly to Chriftopher Reed, of Chipchace, and the heir of Edward Charleton, of Reedfmouth, Efqrs. the manor claimed by his grace the duke of Northumberland. It is pleafantly fituated on a rifing ground, two hundred and eighty-iix miles from London. The church is fmall, but ancient, dedicated to St. Cuthbert ; the roof of the body of it arched with ftone, of rib work, without any timber in it; in the pavement are many grave-ftones, fculptured with fwords ; but without inscriptions on them. In the chancel on the north fide, is a mural monument of blue and white marble, erecled by the late John Reed of Chipchace, Efq; to the memory of his father. The church-yard is agreeably placed, forming a fine terrace above the river. Bellingham has a weekly market on Saturdays, and an annual fair, held on Saturday after September the fifteenth, for black horned cattle, fheep, linen and woollen cloth. A mile from Bellingham, on the weftern banks of the North Tyne is Hezley-fide, the feat of the antient family of the Charlctons ; and at prefent in the poffef- fion of Edward Charleton, Efq. The houfe is a modern ftructure of hewn work and white free-ftone, built after a plan refembling that of Lowther-hall, in Weftmore- land. It is fituated on the top of a gentle declivity, tinder a hanging bank of wood ; an avenue extending from it through fhady inclofures to the river Tyne, from which is a varied profpect to the north, of woods, rocks and moors. About four miles north-eaft from Hezleyfide, on the eaftern banks of the river Reed is Rifingham, that is, the hamlet on a rifing ground. It is of note for being the Roman ftation Habitaneum, by their famous road called Watling-ftreet ; on which a mile to the fouth- ward of it was ftanding fome years ago one of their mi- litary ftones, like that, by their ftation, at Little Chefters. Braf> coins and medals of Roman mintage, of the An- tonines, are frequently turned out of the ground here by the moles. In the year 1 701, a medal was found, with the emperor's name on the obverfe, fomewhat effaced, but the words Aug. Pius, very legible ; on the reverfe is a wolf without any infeription. This ftation is not mentioned by Antonine in his Itinerary, yet it muft have been a Roman garrifon in the time of Aurelius Antoninus, as appears from Infeription* on altars found at it, mentioning his name. Some take this Aurelius to be the philofi pher Antonine, and that it might have been deferted before the reign of Cara- calla, the reputed author of that Itinerary. Camden tells us the inhabitants of Rifin?ham had a tradition that their town was a long time protected by a deity called Mogan, agninft a certain Soldan, or pagan prince. That fuch an opinion once prevailed, appears plain from the inferiptions upon two ftone altars found' here ; one of which was inferibed as follows : Deo Mo- gonti Cad. Et N. Dm. Avg. M. G. Secvndinvs Bf.— Cas— Habitanci Pjumas Ta— Pro Se Et SviS PoSVIT. Which infeription may be read thus: Deo Moganti Cadenorum et Numini Domini NoiTri Augufti Marcus- Gaius Sccundinus benefic iarius Confulis Habitanci prima ftatione pro fe et f : pofuit. The whole infeription is ffill very legible, tnough it is above one hundred and twenty years :.k:c this and another altar were taken out of the river Read. The altar was erecled to Mogan and the deity of the emperor by one Secundinus, a beneficiary of the conful. The beneficiarii were foldiers who at- tended the chief officers of the army ; they were exempt from duty, and feem to have been fomewhat like thofe we now call cadets. Befides the above here were alfo found a great variety of other ftone altars, inferibed to different deities, to- gether with a long ftone table curioufly engraven and inferibed as follows: Nvminib. Avcvstor Coh. 77777 Gal. E Q. Fec. befides a moft beautiful altar of the fame materials with the following fair infeription : Fortvnje Coh T Batavor Cvi Prje Est Melac- CINIVS MARCELLVS PRiE. At Elifhaw, a fmall village on the fame fide of the river, are foundations of large buildings. The river near Watling-ftreet is here croffed by a bridge. Near two miles from Watling-ftreet, is Elfden, a town of great antiquity ; fuppofed to have been a Ro- man town in the time of M. Aurelius Antoninus. Two Roman altars with inferiptions were found here in a hill, called the Mote Hill ; one of them inferibed to the titular deity, Matunus. This hill is trenched round ten yards deep, to the north of which is a breaft work for its defence. Jaw-bones of beafts, a large flag's head, and a fmall urn, with afhes of burnt bones in it, were dug up by the late Mr. Warburton, and fome imper- fect Roman altars obferved by him about the hill. It has been both fepulchral and exploratory. The lordfhip of Elfden is in the poffeffion of the duke of Northumberland. The church is fmall, fituated ©n the weft fide of the village. At a fmall diftanee from it is an old tower, now uled as a rectory houfe. At Berrenes is the ruins of an old chapel ; and near it on Berrene's-Knowl, a Britifh temple, and numerous ftones of various fizes, in a circular order. On a green hillock on a moor, called the TodJ-Law, north of the river Reed, are three large ftones in a tri- angular order, twelve feet diftanee from each other, and each as many feet in diameter, fepulchral monuments, in memory of the like number of valiant chieftains flain in battle. On the weft fide of the river Reed is Troughend, the feat of the ancient family of the Reeds, about a mile from which is Otterburn, fo called from its fituation on the brook Otter, remarkable for the defperate battle fought at it on the fifth of Auguft, in the year 1 388, and twelfth year of the reign of king Richard II. be- tween the Englifh and Scots by moon-light; the former commanded by the earl of Northumberland, and his two fons, Henry and Ralph Piercy ; and the latter by the earl of Louglas, who being defirous of atchieving glory by encountering Henry, lord Piercy, in fingle combat, who was reputed the braveft man in England, and for his martial prowefs firnamed Hotfpur, was over- matched with ftrength, though in no refpect out done in valour, and flain. Intimidated by the fall of their chieftain, the Scots were on the point of yielding the victory, when a large body of forces arriving under the command of the earl of Dunbar, the Englifh were in 4 their NORTHUMBERL AND. 109 tlieir turn forced to give way, and at length after a glorious ftruggle to furrender the laurels. Four miles from Otterburn, and eight from Rifing- ham is Rochefter, the Roman ftation Bremenium, feated on the brow of a fteep rocky hill, near the head of the river Reed by Watling-ftreet, the courfe of the firft Iter of Antoninus ; reputed the ftrongeft garrifon of any the Romans had in the north, being the capital of the Otto- dini, and ftipendiary. The Tribunes Caepio Charitenus, and Lucius Ccelius Optatus, were both commanders in it; the latter having under him a body of Spaniih auxi- liaries, the firft cohort of the Varduli, from Hifpania citerior. Many coins of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus have been dug up here; and likewife a Roman altar, with the fol- lowing infcription ; d. m. civ. l. flingen. mi. leg. VLV. F. Another ancient altar was found among the rubbtfh of an ancient caftle, on which is this infcription : D. R. S. DVPL. N. EXPLOR. BREMEN. ARAM. INSTITVERVNT. N. EIVS. C. CAEP. CHARITING. TRIE. V. S. L. M. This infcription Mr. Horfley obferves, mould be read thus : Deae, Romae facrum duplares numeri explorato- rum Bremenii aram inftituerunt numini ejus Calo Caepione Charitino tribuno votum folverunt libcntes nierito. Mr. Horfley obferves, on his rendering the d. r. s. at the top Deae Romae facrum, that there needs no proof to convince thofe who are acquainted with medals and other Roman antiquities, that the Romans made a goddefs of Rome, and erected altars and temples to her. Camden juftly conjectures, from the mention of the word Bremenium upon this altar, that that ftation, which has been fo induftrioufly, and fo long fought for, was fituated at Riechefter, and that Antoninus began his firft journey in Britain from this place, as from its utmoft limit. Other very curious infcriptions have been found at Riechefter. From the rifing ground, where the road branches off to Nunwick, we have a delightful view of Swinburn- cafile ; which, in the reign of Edward I. v/as in the pofleflion of Peter de Gunnerton, who held it of the barony of Bywell, by the fervice of two knights fees, of the old feoffment. It is now the feat and lordfhip of Thomas Ridell, Efq; who erected, out of the ruins of the old caftle, the prefent elegant ftructure. It is plea- fantly fituated on the fouthern banks of a rivulet, and fheltered to the eaft and weft by fome tall trees. Before it is a fpacious field adjoining to a fhao'y wood ; and from it may be feen an extenfive and pleafing profpeet. From the fame Hoping eminence on the military road we have a flight profpeet of Houghton-caftle, on the weftern banks of North Tyne, agreeably fhaded with trees. It was formerly a remarkable large ftrong build- ing, the entrance to which was by a flight of fteps ; but it is now much decayed, and almoft entirely unroofed. In the walls, which are of an amazing thicknefs, is cut a neat little room juft big enough to hold two or three chairs and 2 table. In it is a fire-place, and one win- dow ; near it is a ftable without any timber in the roof, arched with ftone ; and alfo a domeftic chapel, now in ruins. This caftle belonged formerly to the Swinburns, but is at prefent in the pofleflion of Mr. William Smith, Gent. a , Continuing our journey down the hill we came next to Wa'lwick, that is, the village on the wall, which is here in better prefervation than in any other place through its whole length in Northumberland, Well-Town ex- cepted. The village belongs chiefly to Thomas Dixon, Efq; whofe feat was lately repaired and beautified. A little below Walwick on the right hand, is Wal- wick-Cheflcrs, the Roman ftation Ciburnum, garrifoned by the Cohors prima Vangionum. The ruins are ftill vilible, covering a fpacious area, with a beautiful flope to the fouth. A confular medalion of Hadrian, of the eld mixed brafs, was found near this ftation by lome la- 67 bourers in making the military road. It is four inches in circumference; his buft in bold relief on the obverfej the legend round it, Hadriano Aug. Caefari ; within a laureated border, or civic garland : S. P. Q. R. Optimo Principi, s. c. It was ftruck on the firft of January, a day facred to Janus, obferved with great folemnity, as prefaging the felicity of the new year. The confuls entering on their office on that day, their coins were then minted, with S. C. in area, that is, ob cives fervatos. The Romans crofled the Tyne at this ftation by a ftone bridge ; fome of the ftones of which may be feen when the river is low. A little farther down the Tyne is Walwick-Grange, the feat of the late Anthony Errington, Efq; father of the prefent poffeflbr John Errington, Efq; It is a modern built ftructure adjoining to an antient tower, fituated upon a rock on the banks of the North Tyne. In a field fouth-weft of the Grange, by the road to Netherwarden, is part of a ftone crofs, or upright pillar on a fquare pedeftal ; upon one fide of which is fculp- tured in relief the figure of a fword fheathed. About a mile fouth-weft from the Grange, we crofled the Tyne by a ftone-bridge of four arches, called Chol- lerford-bridge. In the reign of king Richard II. a re- leafe from- penance for thirteen days was granted by Walter Skirlaw, bifhop of Durham, to all fuch as fhould contribute either by labour or money to the repair of it. A mile and a half above the bridge is Chollertow, that is the town by Chollerford, a pleafant village, fituated on the banks of the river, belonging to Sir Edward Swinburn, of Cap-Heaton, Bart. The parifh is large, and the chancel of the church has been lately rebuilt, the roof fealed, and a handfome new tower erected at the weft end. The vicarage-houfe is a neat ftructure, built with all other conveniences, by the prefent incumbent, the Rev. Mr. Stoddart. From the bridge we afcend the hill acrofs the Hex- ham road, by Branton, to the turnpike-gate ; oppofite to which, on the right hand, is a flight of terraces on a bank, called, Hanging-Show, of the fame ufe as the Shote-Hills, exploratory, for the military to retreat to on any fudden alarm, to cbferve the motions of, and fhew themfelves to an enemy, one rank above the earth. From hence continuing our courfe up the hill by St. Ofwald's -chapel, we arrived next at Hexham, fituated chiefly on an eminence, by the little brook Hextold, and near the united ftreams of South and North Tyne, two hundred and feventy-fix miles from London. It is a town of great antiquity, and gives name to a large tract of county called Hexhamfliire. The moft learned antiquarians believe it to be Roman ; and all, except Mr. Horfley, give the name of Axclodunum, or Ux- clodunum ; importing the fame thing as the Celtic, or ancient Britifh word Uchelodunum, that is a high fitua- tion. Mr. Horfley is firmly of opinion that it is the Roman Epiacuin, or Ebchefter of Camden ; and that Brough on the Solway-fands in Cumberland was their Axclodunum, and the ftation of their Cohors prima Hifpanorum. In the year 1^26 was difcovered in a vault at Hex- ham church, two infcriptions, both Roman, and both remarkably curious. The workmanfhip of one of them was very badly executed ; but it was neverthelefs render- ed curious by bearing a new name of a Legatus Au- gufti, viz. Q_ Calpurnius Conceflinus ; and that a body of horfe at Cor-chefter, called Equites Caefarienfes, or Caefariani Coronotatae, not mentioned either in the Notitia Imperii, or any where elfe. The other is of Lucius Septimius Severus, of the beft fculpture, the letters large, but very imperfect. The curiofity of this confifts in its bearing fo distinctly the name of that emperor, and its being the only genuine one found fo near the well with his name upon it. Richard, the prior of a monaftery in this town gives the following account of it. Not far from the fouthern bank of the river Tyne, fays he, fiands a town of fmall 3 H extent, 2 IO NORTHUMBERLAND. extent, and but thinly inhabited ; yet it was once very large and magnificent. It was called Hextoldelham, from the little rivulet that runs by it, and fometimes fuddenly overflows it. In the year 675, queen Ethel- dreda, wife to king Egfrid, afligned it for a bilhop's fee, to St. Wilfrid, who built a church and monaftery here dedicated to St. Andrew, which furpafled in beauty all the religious houfes in England. Several privileges were granted to it by the Saxon kings, and the bounds of its fanctuary extended a mile every way. The above mo- naftery contained a prior and regular canons of the order of St. Auguftine, who, at the time of the diflblution, amounted to fourteen, and had a revenue of one hun- dred and twenty-two pounds, eleven (hillings and one penny, per annum. Here was alfo a houfe for leprous perfons, as old as the reign of king John, but its reve- nues at the fuppreffion were valued at no more than four marks a year. Malmfbury defcribing this town, fays, it was furprizing to fee what towering buildings were erected here, and how admirably contrived with wind- ing ftairs, by mafons brought from Rome, in fo much that it feemed to vie with the Roman pomp. Hexham is at prefent about three furlongs in length ; and is a well built bailiwick town, the civil government of which is by a bailiff, who is appointed by the lord of the manor, arid is generally continued for life. He is an officer of gre?.t antiquity, and has the fame power within his jurifdiction, as the mayor of a city, or a juftice of peace within the county. ' • The market-place, which is a large fquare, well built and paved, ftands in the center of the town. On the fouth fide is a market-houfe on pizzas, or ftone pilafters, lately erected for the ufe of the town by Sir Walter Calverley Blacket, Eart. In the middle is a large fountain, with a refervoir under it of free-ftone, and hewn work, erected at the charge of the inhabi- tants of that part of the town. The water which fup- plies it is brought for near a mile in pipes. ' On the weft fide of the market-place are the remains of that celebrated and admired ftructure, the priory- church, or old cathedral, the beft view of which is from the north-eaft. In the center on four ftrong pil- lars is a fquare tower j in which were fine mulical bells, dedicated to the Blefl'ed Virgin, St. Andrew, St. J hn and other faints. St. Mary's which was the largeft, was commonly called the Fray-bell, being never rung alone, but on occafiou of fire, the approach of an enemy, to raife the poffe comitatus, or fray as it was termed. An- drew's bell was the next in fize ; called the Holy bell, being never ufed but for funerals. Eight new bells have for fome time fupplied their place. The roof of the middle ifle is lofty, lined with oak pannels within, and covered with lead without. The fide ifles are arched with ftone ; and the nave and crofs ifles are fupported by pillars. In the walls are two rows of galleries one above the other. At the entrance into the choir is another gallery, in which formerly ftood the organ. On the pannels are painted the reprefenta- tion of our blefl'ed Lord and his apoftles, and of the Virgin Mary. The choir is fpacious, and the altar large ; the latter was repaired by the late Sir William Blacket ; as was the whole church by a brief, in the year 1725. The flocr is moftly covered with ancient grave ftones, which are ftill very entire. Many of them have been inlaid with brafs, and others with croziers. There are fcvcral monuments in the church, fome of the moft remarkable of which are the following : Near the north door on the right hand is a flat funeral ftone, very antient. It has a crozier upon it, and this in- fcription : Hie Jacf.t Thomas De Divilstone. Under an arch, at the entrance of the north ifle of the choir is an ancient monument, faid to be the fculp- ture of Alfwold, king of Northumberland, aflaflinated by Sigga, a factious lord of his court, at Cilchefter, now Walwick-Chtfters, September 23, 788. In the north-eaft ifle of the choir, is a monument cre&ed to the memory of Sir Robert Ogle, of Ogle- caftle, with this infeription in a brafs plate on black marble : Hie jacet Robertus Ogle, filius Eleanorae Bertram, filiae Roberti Bertram, militis qui obiit in vigilia omnium fanctorum, Anno Domini, 14.04. Cujus anim.^e propitietur deus. On another brafs plate are engraved the arms of the two baronial houfes of Bertram and Ogle, quartered. In the choir near the reading-defk is a flat funeral ftone of blue marble, to the memory of the Rev. and learned George Ritfchel, a Bohemian by birth, and lecturer of Hexham. It bore the following infeription; Sub hoc marmore facrae reconduntur reliquse Georgii Ritfchel, patria Bohemi, Religione reformati : qui fseviante in proteftantes Ferdinando 2do. omnibus gentilitis Hereditatibus exutus, fed Hegentorati Lugduni Batavorum, aliarumque academiarum exter- num, fpoliis onuftus Quicquid eruditonis in iftis florentifllmis Mufarum Emporiis viquit, fecum Detubit Oxonium Anno Domini 1644. Qua celeberrima academia confummatis Studiis aliorum commodo ftudere ccepit. Et contemplationibus metaphyficis, Vindiciis ceremoniarum ecclefiae Anglicanse, Aliifque fcriptis eruditiflimis editis toto • Orbe ftatim inclaruit. Tanta fama audtus, ecclefiam Auguftaldenfem, ad quam electus erat a Et cui prsefuit annos plus minus 27, Magis Auguftum, et tantum non Cathedralem, qualis alim fuit, reliquit. Natus Anno Domini, 1616. Denatus, 1683. At the weft end of St. Andrew's church are the re- mains of the ancient priory. It has been a fpacious quadrangular building, with a large cloifter. A few years ago the ambulatories were very confpicuous on the weft fide of the garden ; as was likewife an oratory at the fouth-eaft corner, the roof of which was vaulted with ftone, and fupported by four Ionic columns. In the twenty-fourth year of the reign of king Edward I. 1296, it was burnt by the Scots, together with the weft end of the church and the fchool-houfe j and in the reign of Edward III. 1346, it was pillaged by David, king of Scots, who entered the borders by Lid- del-caftle, with forty thoufand men. They continued here three days ; after which they departed without burning the town, which the inhabi* tants were in daily apprehenfion of their doing; Part of the priory was repaired by Sir Reginald Car- naby, and has fince been further repaired by Sir Walter Blacket ; who has alio made a pleafant gravel walk round a large field on the weft fide of it, which he has adorned with fmall clumps of foreft trees planted at pro- per diftanccs. 5 On the eaft fide of the market-place is an antient ftone-building with a clock in it, which was formerly the town-hall, or town court, belonging to the bifhops and priefts of Hexham, and is ftill put to the fame ufe. The lord of the manor holds his court in it, and it is alfo the feflions-hall. At a fmall diftance from it is an old tower, which was antiently, and is ftill made ufe of for a town gaol. A little farther eaftward is a grammar- fchool by queen Elizabeth, in the fourth year of her reign, 1598. The mafter's falary Js twenty pounds, and the uiher's four pounds, per annum. The fchool and a convenient dwel- ling houfe for the matter were erected at the expence of the town and neighbourhood in 1684, and coft one hundred and fifty pounds. They are fituated upon the brink of an eminence, which forms a fins natural ter- race commanding a delightful profpedt of the river Tyne, and the neighbouring feats and villages upon its banks. This town has two weekly markets, held Tuefdays and Saturdays. The firft is of chief note. Every Tuef- 3 da >' NORTHUMBERLAND. 211 day fortnight, from the tenth of March to the tenth of December, is a market for horned cattle. Here are alfo two annual fairs, viz. on the twenty-fifth of July, and on St. Simon and St. Jude. In Hexhamfhire, on the plains, called the Levels, by the rivulet of Divil, a bloody battle was fought between the two houfes of York and Lancafter, in 1463, and a decifive victory obtained by the general of the latter, the marquis of Montacute, who forced the intrench ments. The unfortunate king Henry haftened out of the field. His attendants were many of them taken ; and himfelf with his queen and feveral of his partizans were aban- doned to the moft extreme mifery. Oppofite [to Hexham, on the north margin of the Tyne, is the Hermitage, formerly belonging to the priory of that town. It was then called Hamefhalg, that is the hamlet in the Halg, Haugh, or Vale. It was formerly furrounded with wood, and was the favourite recefs cf St. John of Beverly, to whom the church on the hill behind is dedicated. On the diflblution of that monaftery it came to the crown, and was afterwards granted to John Coatfworth, Efq. From him it de- fcended to his eldeft fon, who left it to his brother and his heirs ; but he dying without heirs, it came to Dr. James Jurin, an eminent phyfician in London, and is at prefent in the poffeffion of his widow, Mrs. Jurin. The front of the houfe was built by the late Mr. Coatf- worth, of white free-ftone and hewn-work. The back part and the offices were erected by Mr. Jurin, to whom the whole place is indebted for the genteel appearance it now makef. To the eaft of the houfe is a fmall but neat garden, (haded by a clump of tall foreft trees. Before it is a grafs-lawn, adorned with fmall clumps of young trees, and extending to a terraced road by the banks of the river Tyne. To the north-weft is a fmall pendent copfe, or natural grove, through which is a terrace walk, at the termination of which is the church of St. John-lee, confifting at prefent of only one ifle, in the jurifdidion Of the fee of York. A little farther eaftward, is Beaufront, the feat of John Errington, Efq; the fituation of which is univcr- i'ally admired ; being placed on the declivity of an emi- nence, fhaded by a wood, from whence there is a moft delightful profpect of the beautiful vale beneath, and the river beyond it. Continuing our journey along the military road, we have on the left hand a fine view of Holy-den, that is, the Holy Den or Vale, famous for the victory obtained by Ofwald, king of Northumberland, over the Britifh ufurper, Cedwall, who had flain his apoftate brother, Anfred, king of Bernicia, in a pitched battle. Ofwald, to revenge his brother's death, and fave hjs country from deftruction, boldly marched at the head of a few brave troops to oppofe the tyrant. He chofe a conve- nient camp, which he fortified, and relying not on his own arm, but the juftnefs of his cauf:, and the pro- tection of heaven, he erected a crofs before it. The enemy trufting to their fuperior numbers, advanced in full confidence of victory. Cedwall, tranfported with the thought of having ample vengeance on the humble Ofwald, in perfon attacked his intrenchments ; but his triumph was of fhort duration, for an arrow from the enemy met him and ftruck him dead on the fpot. Ter- rified at his fall, his men in confufion began to retire; when Ofwald ieizing the fortunate moment, rufhed upon them in their fright with his brave followers, and put them entirely to the rout. Thfe field of battle was after- wards called Hefenfelth, that is, Heaven's-Field. The convent of Hexham afterwards erected a church on the top of a hill by the road fide, and dedicated it to St. Ofwald, to commemorate the bleffings of that victory. It is ftifl Handing, and was lately repaired, being an ap- pendage to the church of St. John-!ee. Near the church was found a large filver com of St. Ofwald ; his head is reprefdnted on one fide, fceptered, and the crofs on the other. In the fame vale is a village called Halyton, and Hal- lington, which fignifies the Holy Town ; in the demef- nes of which is a neat modern ftructure of white free- Pcone callee Halyton-Mefnes, the feat of Ralph Soulfby, Efq. Before it is a grafs area extending to the brink of a deep gill, wherein is a fmall ftream, which falls a little below into Erring-barn. A mile and a half eaft from Halyton is a hill with a fquare intrenchment, and a hearth-ftone in the center; round which is a trench, called the Mote-law, which implies the hill, for obferving the motions of an enemy) and giving an alarm by fire on any imminent danger. From hence we have a view of Little Bavington, the feat of the antient family of the Shaftoes, now in the pofTefiion of George Shaftoe Deleval, Efq; who has made confiderable additions and improvement?, by erect- ing new buildings, and raifing plantations, and hedge rows. To the fouth-weft, on an eminence, is an ar- tificial ruin ; and to the fouth is a large and beautiful piece of water, by the fide of a bank planted with foreft trees, at the end of which is a tempiato. About a mile from Bavington is Port-gate, fituated on a hill. Near it is a farm-houfe ; round which, the very foundations of the Roman wall, and fofs, have been dug up, plowed, and fown with corn. A little below Port-gate, we came to the Hermen- ftreet, which derived its name from Hermes Meicurius, the god of the high ways, and Cuftos Manium. It is more generally known by the name of Watling-ftreet. It crolies the Tyne at the Roman ftation, Corchefter, by the oftium of the ftreamlet Cor, famous for the Roman curionties and antiquities found at it. It contains feveral acres, and a fmall fpace within it called Corbew is fup- pofed to have been the Praetorium. The Romans had a ftone bridge over the Tyne at this ftation, the ftructure of which mult have been very curious, becaufe the velocity of the current is very rapid, efpecially when fwelled with fudden rains, or melted fnows from the neighbouring mountains. They were indeed careful in making the arches of their bridges over fuch ftreams very large, and to form them with the greateft geometrical accuracy. The pillars are multan- gular ; the bafe of each fecured by horizontal arches, gradually contracted ; every ftone in them is of a vaft length, placed wedge-like, and laid level with the water. In the upper part of the pillars were apertures or open- ings to give a paflage to impetuous and raging floods. About a quarter of a mile eaft from Corchefter is Corbridge, an antient borough, fituated on the north banks of the Tyne, crofied by a bridge of feven arches. This manor was anciently granted by the crown to Robert Clavering, baron of Warkworth, with the pri- vileges of fending two members to parliament, having an annual fair, and a weekly market ; all which have been long fince difufed. The manor is now in the pof- feffion of his grace the duke of Northumberland. Corbridge is a large, populous, well built village. The church is an antient ftructure dedicated to St. Andrew. Under an arch at the end of the north ifle is a grave-ftone with the following infcription : hIC IAC0N* I *6RR1S ASLInI FILIUS huGO. On the fouth fide of the church is an old tower, which was the town-gaol ; and near it is the market- crofs now difufed. In March 1735, a large piece of Roman plate was found in the bottom of an inclofure on the fouth fide of the town, by the river Tyne. It was difcovered in a boggy place by a little girl belonging to a fmith, who was at play with more children. The raifed work and figures upon it induced the children to carry it home to the fmiths, who perceiving it to be a thing of value, took care of it, and carried it to Newcaftle, where he fold it to a goldfmith of that town ; but the duke of Somerfet hearing of it, he, as lord of the manor, claimed it as his property. It weighs one hundred and forty-eight ounces, and is in fhape like a tea board. It meafures twenty inches long and fifteen board, is hollowed about an inch deep, with a flat brim an inch and a quarter broad, neatly flowered, with a vine, grapes, &c. Under the middle of it was a low frame ; about feven inches long, four broad and one and a half deep. The inge- nious Roger Gale, Efq; of Newcaftle has given us the following account of this curious piece of antiquity. " I flial! NORTHUMBERLAND. IC I fhall begin, fays that learned antiquary, from the right hand of the plate as you look at it, where Apollo, the principal figure in the whole, is placed under a fmall temple, fupported by two wreathed columns with flowered capitals, almoft naked, having only a pallicum hanging down from his left fhoulder over his back. In the fame hand is his bow, which he holds up towards the top of the column on that fide ; his hand is extended downwards, with a branch in it, perhaps of laurel, crofs the other pillar, againft which rifes a pyra- midical pile of feven pieces, befides the top ; but for what it is intended I muft confefs my ignorance. Againft the bafis of the left hand column refts a lyre, the form of which is truly antique. Beneath it grows a plant with three fpreading flowers upon its three extre- mities, defigned, as I believe for a heliotrope ; and clofe by it couches a griffin, with its wings elevated over its back. The ancients had a high opinion of the fagacity of this fictitious animal, and therefore confecrated it to their god of wifdom. In Bergerus's Thefaurus Palatin, is a medal of Commodus, the reverfe whereof is Apollo in a chariot drawn by two griffins ; and the poet Claud ian alludes to his riding thus in the following diftich : «' At ft Phcebus adeft, et frenis Grypha jugalem *■* Riphaeo, Tripodos repetens detorfit ab exis, &c. Clofe to the right-hand column, and this pyramidical pile, fits a woman upon a fquare footed ftool, though no more than two of its legs are vifible : fhe looks back- wards over her left fhoulder towards Apollo ; is wrapt up in a long garment, or ftola, from head to foot, and veiled : by this drefs and attire, and an altar with an eternal fire burning upon it juft by her, which was brought with her from Troy : I take her to be Vefta. " Manibus vittas, Veftamque patentem, w iEternum Adytis affert penetralibus ignem. Firg. " Et vos virginea lucentis femper in ara *' Laomidontia? Trojana altaria flammae. Sil. ltd. *' The next is a woman, erect, her hair gathered up and tied with a knot behind ; upon her forehead rifes a tutulus, and fhe is habited in a ftola from the fhoulders to the ground. Her right arm is wrapped up acrofs her breaft in her garb, the hand only appearing out of it ; in her left hand fhe holds a fpear, the fhaft twifted, the iron of it fomewhat obtufe. This feems to be the only human figure in the company ; but a very learned gentleman of my acquaintance thinks it may be defigned for Juno, who is often thus accoutred with a fpear. If fo, it muft be the Juno Curis, or Juno haftata j we have it from Ovid, " Quod hafta curis prifcis eft dicta Sabinis. She was the fame with Juno Pronuba. — Celebri hafta nubentis caput comeatur, vel quia Junonis Curitis in tutela eflet, vel ut fortes viros ominaretur. — But as there is no peacock, or any other attributes of her divinity at- tending her, and her appearance no ways mqjeftic, nor adequate to the " Divum Regina, Jovifque " Et foror et conjux I cannot be entirely of his opinion, efpecially as fhe follows, and feems to be an attendant of the next figure, which is " Pallas, Galea effulgens et Gorgone faeva, the head of that monfter as ufual, being fixed upon her breaft. In her left hand fhe holds a (harp pointed fpear, her right is extended towards Diana, with whom fhe feems engaged in very earneft difcourfe, to which alfo that other goddefs is very attentive. She is " The laft figure of the group (though called a man in all the accounts I have feen of this table) is repre- f en ted here as the Diana Venatrix by the feminine drefs of her head, tucked up with a knot behind, like the hair of the third figure ; but the bow in her left, and the arrow in her right hand ; her fhort Tunica, which reaches down a little more than to the middle of her thighs, and her bufkins that come up no higher than the calf of her leg, have occafioned this miftake of her fex ; but Ovid, " Talia fuccincta pinguntur crura Diana; " Cum fequitur fortei, fortior ipfa, feras. " Between the two figures of Pallas and Diana, rifes" a tall flender tree, with a crooked waving ftem, the branches of which are difplayed at the top almoft over two thirds of the plate. On the main branch is perched an Eagle, with one wing expanded. This is of raifed folid work like the reft of the figures, but there are feveral fmall birds fitting among the boughs that are only punched, or cut in with a tool, as are alfo feveral feftoons hanging down fiom the tree, and other little fhrubs and flowers interfperfed all over the area of the table. The great bird fitting directly over the head of Pallas, and the attendance of the little birds about it, made me think it was her owl, till I had feen the origi- nal, which convinced me, that it can be defigned for nothing but an eagle. " Under this tree ftands an altar, and fo clofe to Diana, that fhe holds her left hand and bow over it. It is but a fmall one, and has nothing upon it but a fmall globular body, perhaps a mafs of the libamina ex farre, melle, et oleo. " I fhouid have told you that below the feet of Pallas grows a plant that feems to bear two ears of corn upon a flalk, but cannot fay what it is, or how it belongs to her: beneath the tree and the little altar, ftands a thin- putted dog, like a grey-hound, his nofe turned up in a howling or barking pofture, as often exhibited with this goddefs on medals, and in other reprefentations of her, fome " acutae vocis Hyladtor *' Aut fubftridta gerens Sicyonius Ilia fudor. Ovid. wers now ftanding Hill retain. King Edward 1. in the twenty-eighth year of his reign, in his expedition againft the Scots, lodged here, and dated his writs for fummon- ing a parliament to be held at Lincoln. It was fortified with ftrong walls, and a double ditch, which were kept in good order, till the civil wars, when it was burnt down in 1652: what efcaped the fire, and was ftanding at the reftoration, was fomewhat repaired and made ha- bitable by Dr. Stern, then bifhop of this fee: but its greateft benefactors were his two next fuecefibrs, Dr. Rainbow, and Dr. Smith, who, at no fmall expence, added a chapel and two towers ; and this, with the later improvements, have rendered it a decent and commodi- ous palace. Near Rofe-caftle, is Hutton-hall, anciently in the poflefiion of a family of that name, but was purchafed by the Fletcher's, who made it as pleafant a feat as molt in the county. About fix miles to the caft of Carlifle is Corby-caftle, which was the refidence of the ancient family of the Salkelds, and oppofite thereto, on the river Eden, ftands, The village of Wetherall, five miles eaft of Carlifle, where formerly was a fmall monaftery or cell, which, at the diflblution of the religious houfes, was given by Henry VIII. to the dean and chapter of Carlifle. It belonged to the benedictine Monks, and was founded in the reign of William Rufus, by Ranolph de Mefchines, earl of Cumberland. He dedicated it to St. Conftan- tine, and gave it for a cell to the abbey of St. Marv, at York. David, king of Scotland, and prince henry, his fon, with feveral others, were alfo benefactors to it. It was valued at the diflblution, at one hundred and feventeen pounds, eleven fhillings and ten-pence a year, by Dugdale j but at one hundred and twenty- eight pounds, five fhillings and three-pence, by Speed. There remains a fquare ftru&ure, which on one fide feems to be entire, and was probably a gate-houfe to the priory ; or, at leaft, there is a large g teway that pafies quite through it to the river-fide. Near this place are ftill to be feen a fort <>f houfes, dug out of the rock, which were probably defigned for a retreat in trouble- fome times. They are of very difficult accefs, and confift of two rooms, one within another, of about five or fix yards fquare each. However, fome take them to be intended for hermits to lodge in, on account of their being fo near the priory. About a mile to the north of Carlifle is Star.wick, or Stanewegg, which fignifies a place on a flony way, and is a town of fome antiquity ; for Henry I. gave the ap- propriation of it to the church of Carlifle, when it was made a bifhop's fee. To the north-weft of this place near the fea-fhore, and at the mouth of the river Eden, is RowclifF, where there is a caftle built, not many ages ago, by the lords Dacre, for their own private de- fence. Above this place there are two rivers, the Efk, and the Leven, which, uniting their ftreams, fall into Solway Frith. The Efk rifes in Scotland, but has its courfe for fome miles in England, where it receives the l R L A N D. river Kirkfop. Upon the banks of this river is feared Netherby, now a little village conf.fting of a few cot- tages ; but the extraordinary imiis chat arc near it, plainly fhew that i f was formerly a confi lerable place, and perhaps a Roman fort. It is judged to have been the old Efica, where the tribune of the fiift cohort of the Aftures kept garrifon againft the Barbarians ; but Horiley is pofitive thai i: was one of the Caftra Explo- ratorum. However that be, in the walls of the manfion- houfe here is the following inli ription, in memory of the emperor Adrian, let up by ihe fccond legio 11 , called Augufta : Imp. CiES. Tra. Hadriano Avg. Leg II. Ave F. Several other inicribed Hones have been difcovered here fince Mr. Camden's time, and a gold coin of Nero. One of the ftones is inicribed Imp. Comm. Cos. Which may be read ; Imperatori Commodo Confuli. This feems to have been erected about the year 155, when Commcdus was faluted by the title of Imperator Britannicus. On another is this : Deo Marti Belatucadro Ro. Vr. Rp. Caii Orvsii. M. By which it appears that Belatucadras was the fame with Mars, who was worfhipped in the eaftern parts of the world, under the names of Bel, Baal, and Belinus. Beyond the Efk, and on Englifh ground, there is a place called Sollom Mofs, remarkable for the fuccefs of the Englifh, in taking many Scotch noblemen prifeners in the year 1 C42. The Englifh, commanded by Sir Thomas Warton, being polled upon higher ground, took the advantage, and falling upon the Scotch army put them to flight. James V. of Scotland was fo grieved for the lofs of his army, which confift. j a of one thouland five hundred men, that he foon after died. About two miles to the, eaft of the road that leads from Carlifle to Stanwick, is Scaleby, ftill furrounded with a moat and in very good order, it was built by Richard the Rider, furnamed TiliolfF, who firft pofkfled the manor of Scaleby, by the grant of king Henry I. From him it defcended along with the faid manor, for about ten generations, to Robert TiliolfF, who died in the reign of king Henry VI. without iflue. Then it came by marriage of the heirefs to the Pickerings, and afterwards from them, by the like means, to the Muf- graves of Hayton in this county, of whom, atter it had fufFered much in the civil wars, it was purchafed by Richard Gilpin, Efq; M. D. grandfather of Richard Gilpin, Efq; the piefcnt proprietor. Upon a fmall river called the Leven, near Saltom Mofs, is a village named Bew-caftle, or Bueth-caftle, fo called from one Bueth, a Cumberland man, who is faid to have built it about the reign of William the Con- queror. In the time of Edward 11. it was in the pof- feflion of Adam de Swinburn ; but in Camden's, it was in the hands of queen hlizabeth, and was defend: d by a fmall garrifon. The church is now almofl in ruins, and in the church-yard is a crofs about five yards high, waftied over with a white oily cement to preferve it from the weather. It is a noble monument, and deferves the attention of the curious. The fhape inclines to a fquare pyramid, being two fret broad at the bottom, and taper- ing up toward the top. On the weft fide, among other things, is the picture of a holy man, in a piicft's habit, with a glory round his head ; and the effigies of the Virgin Alary with a child in her arms, and both tlvir heads are alio encircled with glories. The north fide is covered with chequer wotk and charters. The chequer work Mr. Camden fuppofes to have been the arms of the Vaulxes ; but the characters were fo effaced he cqfuld make nothing out of them. Dr. Nicholfon is of opinion, that this infeription fhould be read Ryeeburn, /Which in the Danifh language fignifies a cometery, < r burying ground ; and the chequer work is thougtrt to counte- nance this conjecture as being an emblem of the tumuli, or buiying-places of the ancients, and of much greater antiquity than the family of the Vaulxes, whofe arms Mr. Camden fuppofed it to be. On the eaft fide are re- prefenta- C IT M B E p efentations of birds, grapes, and other ornaments, with an infeription fo much broken, that its purport is very doubtful. At Burg upon the fands, a little diflance from Carlifle, is the monument of our victorious prince, Edward I. who having fo far fubdued the Seots as to bring away the facred ftone at Scone-Abbey, whereon their kings ufed to be crowned, died here in his camp, on his march againft thtm, like a true foldier, guarding his frontiers with his laft breath. On the fpot in his camp where he expired, which has always been diftin- guifhed by fome great ftones that were rudely heaped upon ir, there is now erected a lquare pillar, nine yards and an half in height, with theie inferiptiens on three fides : On the Weft fide. . Mrmo ia (Tternrt Edwavdi f.'Regis Anglia longe c!a iijmi, qui in belli apparatu centra Scotos cccupatus, hie in cajlris obiit 7. Tulii A. D. 1307. To the immoital memory of Edward I. the far rm,ft illuftnous king of England ; who, being furprifed in his preparations f< r war againft the Scots, died here in the field, July 7, j 307. On the South fide. , NohiliJJimus Princeps Henricus Howard, Dux NorfAia, Ccmes Marefchal Anglic, Comes Arund, l$c ab Edzuardo I. liege Anglitz oriundus. The moft noble Prince Henry Howard, Duke of Norfolk, Earl Marfhal of England, Earl of Arundel, &c. del'cended from Ldwani I. king of England. On the North fide. J '-<.hanv.es Aglionby, T. C. F. Beneath: Tko. Langjione fecit, 1685. Langiown, to which we patted from Carlifle, is feared on the northern extremity of the ccuntv, on the borders of Scotland, near the conflux of the rivers Efk and Kirkfop, three hundred and fixteen miles from London. There is a charity-fchool here for fixty childre •, en- dowed by Mr. Reginald Grahme •, and the late lord Prefton had a fine feat near the town. Though this is a place of no great note, it has a weekly market on Thurfd-iys, and two annual fairs ; on the Thurfday after Whi'lunday, for horfes an J linen yarn ; the Thurfday after Martinmas, and the Thurfday after No- vember twenty-two, for horfes, horned cattle and linen cloth. From Langtown we proceeded to Wigton, fituated in a foreft called AHerdale, two hundred and eighty- eight miles from L-ndon. It is a place remarkable only for a market on Tuefdays, and an annual fair on the twenty-fifth of March, for merchandize and toys. About a mile fouth of Wigton are the ruins of an ancient city, to which the inhabitants have given the name of Old Carlifle. Both Camden and Dr. Stukely conjectured, that the Romans had here their garrifon, called by Antoninus, Caftra Explnratorum 5 but Horfley, with greater probability, fuppofes it to be Olenacum, and obferves, that the ruins of the old Roman town and ftation here are very grand and confpicuous ; it ftands upon a military way very large and vifible, leading di- rectly to Carlifle and the Roman wall. The ramparts of the ftation lie two of them directly eaft and weft, and the others north and fouth. There feems to have been a double agger quite round it. The river Wiza runs on the fouth and weft fides of the ftation about half a mile from it, and the defcent to the river is fteep | yet the out-buildings have been on all fides here as well as at Old Penrith. From this ftation there is a very large profpect, efpecially weftward towards the fea. It appears by inlcriptions, that a body of horfe, called Ala Augufta, was long quartered here ; and according to the Notitia Olenacum, was garrifoned by the Ala Herculea ; now Mr. Horfley conjectures, that the Ala Augufta, in the year 242 under the emperor Gordian, affumed the name Gordiana ; and that about forty years afterwards the fame Ala took the name Herculea, from the emperor Maximianus Herculius ; if then this conjecture be ad- mitted, it proves, paft all manner of doubt, that the R L A N D. 22* place now called Old Carlifle is the Olenacum of the Notitia. From a furvey made of this fpot in the year '75?;, by the late Mr. G. Smith, i: appears, th.it the aggers, pra;torium, ditches and roads belonging to this ftation, are ftill to be traced by their remains on the un- cultivated common ; and Mr. Smith thought, that the A!a? Auxiliaiiae appeared, by many fcattered remains, to have encamped a confiderable way to the eaftwird. The fame gentleman obferves, that though Mr. Camden, calls it a famous city, it is moft probable he never faw it, there being no remains of bu Iding befides the fort, the wall of which is (till to be feen, and fome wretched huts, which feem to have been cobbled up by private fddiers, merely to fhelter them from the weather; for the remains of them are of very bad ftone, though there is a good quarry at a little diftance, to which refort would certainly have been had, if any regular edifices had been raifed for more durable purpoi'es. To illuftrate what has been faid, it will be neceffary to give fome account of the feveral pieces of antiquity, which have been at various times found at this ftation. The firft of thefe was mentioned by Camden, who copied the infeription, which is to be read as follows ; Jovi Optimo Maximo. Pro falute Imperatoris Marci Antonii Gordiani pii felicis invicti Augufti et Sabinia; Furiae tranquilly conjugis ejus totaque domu divina corum Ala Augufta Gordiana ob virturern appellata pofuit cui prseft Aemilius Crifpi- nus prEefectus equitum natus in provincia Africa de Tufuro fub cura Nonnii Philippi legati Auguftalis pro- prsetot is Attico et praetextato Confulibus. This is a votive altar, erected by the Ala Augufta above-mentioned in the year 242. He obferves, that the face of the altar was fo much defaced, that little could be perceived in the original, but the fhape and fize of the letters, which laft are rude and uneven, and the A without a tranfverfe. It was found at Old Carlifle. The next infeription was alfo on a votive altar found here, and erected by the fame Ala. The infciiption on it, fays Horfley, fhould be thus read : Jovi optima, maximo Ala Augufta ob virtutem appellata cui praeelt Tiberius Claudius Tiberii Filius Juftinus prsefectus Fufciano et Silano iterum Confulibus. The chafm in the above infeription is by Dr. Gale filled up with the word ingenuus, which may probably be the true reading. This altar was found by Mr. Horfley in the garden** wall at Drumbugh-caftle, to which place it was carried from Old Carlifle. Mr. C amden's reading of this in~ fcription is different, but with Dr. Gale we prefer that above inferted. The third infeription is alfo on a votive altar, in the end wall of a ftable at the fame caftle. Camden aflerts, it was dug up at Old Carlifle, being in his time at Ilkirk, whence it was removed to Drumbugh-caftle. The infeription on it : Jovi Optimo Maximo. Ala Augusta ob virtu- tem Appellata, cui priest Publius JEhvs publii filius sergia magnus de mursa ex PANONII INFERIORE PrJEFECTUS APRONlANO ET Bradua CONSULIBUS. Jovi optimo maximo Ala Augufta ob virtutem appel- lata cui praeeft publius Aelius publii filius Sergia [tribu] magnus de Murfa ex Pannonia inferiore prasfectus Aproniano et Bradua Confulibus. Thus we find this altar was erected by the fame Ala, under the reign of Commodus in the year 191. There is nothing ftnking in the form of the altar, but in the infeription, the abbreviations or ligatures and complica- tions of letters are remarkably numerous. A third altar is inferibed to the local deity Belatuca- drus, thus ; Belatvcadro Jvlivs Civilis Optio Votvm Solvit; Libens Merito. Here is alfo a fourth altar, very fair, which is thus inferibed : Dis Deabvsqve Pvblius PqsTHvmivs AciLIANUe PrjSFEctus ConoRrrs PrImje Delmatarvm, Befides 224 CUMBERLAND. Befidcs the altars, there is a ftone curioufly engraved, upon which are two winged Genii fupporting a garland, and inferibed ; Victoria Hvgg D D nn. which is thus read ; Victoria; Aguflorum dominorum noftrorum. In the highway at Wigton are feveral altars which are faid to have been brought from Elnborough and Old Carlille. On the fides of them are reprefentions of facri- fical vcflels, as a pitcher, a melter, a mallet, and a platter, but the defcriptions are fo defaced as not t. Upon the right, a bold fwelling hill of turf rifes with a fine air of grandeur. - Another view from off this hill is on to a mountain's fide, which prefents to the eye a fwelling Hope of turf, and over it Saddle-back rifes in a noble ftile. Another view from this hill is down upon a beautiful vale of cultivated inclofures ; Mr. HaflePs houfe at Delmaine, in one part, almoft encompafll'd with a plantation. Here you likewife catch fome meanders of the river, through the trees, and hear the roar of a water- fall. This hill is itfelf a very fine object, viewed every way, but the fimplicity of its effect is deftroyed, by being cut by a double ill ipe of Scotch firs acrofs it, which varies the colour of the verdure, and ccnfequently breaks the unity of the view. Another point of view from which this part of the lake is feen to good advantage, is from off Soulby Fell. You look down upon the water, which fpreads very finely to the view, bounded to the right by the hills, which rife from the very water ; at the other, by Dun- manlot-hiil ; in front, by a fine range of inclofures, rifmg moft beautifully to the view, and the water's edge fkirted by trees, in a moft picturefque manner. Directing your courfe under the lake, and landing at Swarth Fell, the next bufinefs fhould be to mount its height. The lake winds at your feet like a noble river; the oppofite banks, beautiful inclofures, ex- quifuely fringed with trees; and fome little narrow flips, like promontories, jet into it with the moft picturefaue effect imaginable; and at the fame time hear the noife of a water-lall beneath, but unfeen. Taking boat again, and failing with the courfe of the lake, you turn with its bend, and come into a very fine fheet of water, which appears like a lake of itfelf. It is under Howtown and Hawling Fell. The environs here are very ftriking ; cultivated inclofures on one fide, crowned with the tops of hills ; and on the other, a woody craggy hill down to the very water's edge. The effect fine. Next you double Hawling Fell, and come again into a new fheet of water, under Martindale Fell, which is a prodigious fine hill, of a bold, abrupt form ; and be- tween that and Hawling Fell, a little rifing wave of cultivated inclofures, fkirted with trees ; the fields of the fineft verdure, and the picturefque appearance of the whole moft exquifitely pleafing. It is a moft delicious fpot, within an amphitheatre of rugged hills. Following the bend of the water under New Crag, the views are more romantic than in any part hitherto feen. New Crag, to the right, rears a bold, abrupt head, in a ftile truly fublime; and paffing it a little, the oppofite fhore is very noble. Martindale Fell rifes fteep from the water's edge, and prefents a bold wall of mountain ; really glorious. In front, the hills are craggy, broken, and irregular in (hape (not height) like thofe of Kefwick. They project fo boldly to the very water, that the outlet or wind of the water is fhut by them from the eye. It feems inclofed by a fhore of fteep hills and crags. From hence to the end of the lake, which there is fprinkled by three or four final! iflands, the views are in the fame ftile, very wild and romantic. It is an exceedingly pleafing entertainment to fail about this fine lake, which is nineteen miles round, and prefents to the eye feveral very fine fheets of water ; and abounds, for another amufement, with noble fifli ; pike to thirty pounds weight ; perch to fix pounds ; trout to fix; befides many other forts. The water is of a moft beautiful colour, and admirably tranfparent. From Penrith, a road extends north-eaft to Newcafllc in Northumberland. At about a mile north of this road, and four north-weft of Penrith, are the two Salkelds, at the Icfl'er of them are two circles, confifting of feventy- feven ftones, each ten feet high, and before them at the entrance ftands one by itfelf, which is fifeen feet. This the common people call Long-meg, and the reft her daughters. Within the circle there are two heaps of ftones, under which the inhabitants fuppofe there are dead bodies buried ; and Camden thinks it very pro- bable, as he imagines the great ftones are the monument of fome vi&ory. However, theannotator is of opinion, that 235 C U M B E that the ftones in the middle are no part of the monu- ment; but have been gathered off the adjacent ploughed lands, and have been thrown together here as in a wafte corner of the field ; and as to the great ftone, there is jeafon to believe, that this was formerly a Druid temple. At two miles and a half to the north of this road, and eight miles north-can; of Penrith, is Kirk-Ofwald) fituated on the eaft fide of the river Eden. It is at pre- fent a town of no great note, but was formerly famous for its caftle, founded foon after the conqueft, by Ra- tlulph Engaine, lord of Kirk-Ofwald, and afterwards came by marriage to Sir Hugh Mervill, one of the four knights who killed Thomas a Becket j the fword with which he killed him is faid to have been kept here for fome time. The caftle next came by marriage to the Moltons ; and then, in the reign of king Edward III. to the Dacres, in which family it continued till the reign of queen Elizabeth, when by marriage of the heirefs, it came to the family of the Leonards, earls of SuiTex, in which it continued till the reign of queen Anne, when the laft earl of that name dying without iftue male, it was expofed to fale, and purchafed by Sir Chriftopher Mufgrave, Bart. This caftle, if we may judge by the ruins, muft have been large and ex- tcniive ; many of the walls are yet ftanding with an hexagonal tower ftill entire, having battlements on its top. Kirk-Ofwald, which received its name from the church being dedicated to St. Ofwald, has a weekly market on Thuifdays, and two annual fairs for horned cattle, on the Thurfday before Whitfunday, and Auguft the filth. Proceeding on the fame road, at the diftance of eigh- teen miles north-eaft of Penrith, is Alfton-More, a market-town on the eaftern borders of the county near Northumberland, on the road leading from Penrith to Ncwcaftle. It is not a place of any great confequence, which may be the reafon why our modern geographers have omitted to mention it. Near this town the river South Tine takes its rife, and there is in the neighbour- hood an ancient copper mine. The market is held on Saturdays, and there are two annual fairs, namely, on the laft Thurfday in May, and the firft Thurfday in September, for horned cattle, horfes, linnen and woollen cloth. Curious Plants fund in Cumberland. Jagged yellow rocket of the Ifle of Man. Eruca Mcncneis laciniata lutea. Found plentifully on the fea- bank in Sella fields. Sea Buglafs. Ecchium marinum, P. B. Found in great plenty on the fea-ftiore near White-haven. JR. L A N D. Water gilly-flowcr or Gladiole. Gladio'us lacufuis Dortmanni Clus. Found In the lake called Hull's-watcr, that parts Weftmoreland and Cumberland. Englifh wood-vetch. Probus fyhaticus noflras. Fi und in the hedges and paftures between Perith and New- caftje. The great bilberry- buib. Idea fo/iis fubrotundis major\ Ger. Found in wet marftiy grounds. Small knotted and variegated horfe-tail. Equifetum nudum variegafum minus. Found in many places in a light fandy foil. Baftard-hemp, with a large white flower. Cannabis fpuria fere magna alba per elegante. Found about Blen- cam in great plenty. Remarks on the Sea-coasts the form of the letters ; a con- fiderable fpace of time is therefore fuppofed to have in- tervened between the two incidents that gave occafion to them. Upon the fame rock was found a third ihferip- tion, intimating that the fecond Auguftan legion en- camped at this place. About nine miles to the north-weft of Kirbv^Thore, and about a mile to the eaft of Perith, in Cumberland, is Brougham, feated upon the military way to Carliflc, where that way croffes the river Eimot. It is generally believed to be the Roman ftation Brovoniacum, or Bro- covum, in which the company of the defenfores were quaitered. Though time has reduced this ancient city to an inconfiderable village, and the ftation is now turned into plowed ground, yet it has preferved the Roman name almoft entire ; and here have been found feveral coins, altars, and other tefumonies of its fplendor and antiquity. Here was anciently a caftle which was part of the lordfhip of the Viponts, included in the barony of Ap- pleby and Brough, given by king John to Robert de Vipont, from whofe defendants it paffed to the noble family of the Cliffords. Robert de Clifford entertained at this caftle Robert Baliol, king of Scotland, when he came to hunt in the woods and chaces belonging to that nobleman. This caftle at prefent belongs to the earl of Thanet. At the confluence of the Loder and Eimot, near Brougham, a ftone was dug up in the year 1602, in- fcribed to the memory of Conftantine the Great, in thefe words ; IMP. C. V AL. CONSTANTINO PIENT. AVG. About three miles weft of Brougham is a large round intrenchment, inclofing a plain area, which has two paffages oppofite to each other, anJ is called King Arthur's Round Table. The trenches are on the infide, which fliew it not to have been defigned for a place of ftrength ; but rather a fort of amphitheatre for jufts and tournaments. Near it is a ftone fort in the form of a horfe-fhoe, opening towards the table, called King Arthur's Caftle. It is alfo named Mayburgh, or May- brough, which in the Saxon tongue fignifies the fort of union or alliance, a name which it is fuppofed to have derived from a peace concluded here in 926, between Athelftan, king of England, Conftantine king of Scot- land, Hacval king of Wales, and other princes. We next vifited Orton or Overton, a fmall incon- fiderable town fituated in a healthy country, quite defti- tute of wood two hundred and feventy-one miles from London. Here is a weekly market on Fridays and two annual fairs, viz. May the fecond for black cattle; and the Friday before Whitfunday for black cattle and fheep„ At a fmall diftance from this town is a high hill, which, had formerly a beacon on the top, and is ftill called Orton Beacon. Eight miles weft of Orton is Shapp, formerly called Hep or Heppe, a fmall village, once famous for an abbey, firft built by Thomas' the fon of Gofpatrick, in honour of St. Mary Magdalen, at Prefton, in the barony of Kendal ; but afterwards removed hither by the founder^ and by him endowed with lands and various privileges ; among which was that of taking what wood they pleafed out of his foreft, and grinding at his mill toll free; he alfo gave them pafture in and about Swindale for iixty cows, twenty mares, five hundred fheep, &c. All thefe gifts and privileges were confirmed by Robert de Vipont, lord of Weftmoreland, and at the diffolution the revenue of this abby was valued at one hundred and fifty-four pound feventeen {hillings and feven pence, per annutn. Near Shapp, north -weft of Orton, feveral large ftones, in the form of pyramids, fome cf which are fourteen feet diameter at the bafe, and nine feet high, being placed at equal diftances one from another, ftand almoft in a direct line, a mile long. What was the original intent I of placing them there, is not known ; but it is generally believed 1 2 4 o W E S T M O believed, that they were defigned to perpetuate the me- mory of forne great actions which hiftory has not re- corded. At Shapmore, a marfliy heath, between the mountains to the north of Shap, is a mineral water that feems to be of a fulphureous nature, for it has a ftrong foetid fmell, and a fenfible bitternefs ; but this foon goes off when it evaporates over the fire. It will curdle with foap, and let fall a large white Tcdiment with the folution of pot- afhes. A gallon wjll yield three hundred and feventy-fix grains of fediment,-*fyith a very fmall proportion of very white earth, which has a fait, pungent bitter tafte, and grows moift when expofed to the air. This water has been cafually found to work by ftool and urine, and three pints have proved a very ftrong purge. It will cure in- veterate piles, and is ufed by the common people to cure rheumatick pains in the joints, by rubbing it warm on the parts a ffected. From Shapp a road leads to Haws-Water, a lake fome miles to the weftward, extending for fome diftance alono- the frJe of a hill, that commands a fine view of Ponton-Vale, which is feveral miles in length, of an oblone figure, cut into inclofurcs of a delightful verJure, and fcattered in the moll pifturelque manner, with villages, clumps of wood, houfes and bridges. A fine river takes a beautiful courfe through it ; and its oppofite bank is a large ridge of mountains. The approach to the lake is very picturefque : you pafs between two high ridges of mountains, the bottom finely fpread with in- clofures. The lake is a fmall one, it being only about three miles long, in fome places half a mile over, and in others a quarter. It is almoft divided in the middle by a promontory of inclofures, fo that it confifts of two meets of water. The upper end of it is quite inclofed with bold, fteep, craggy rocks and mountains ; and in the center of the end, are a few little inclofures at their feet, waving upwards in a very beautiful manner. On the fouth fide of the lake is a noble ridge of mountains, very bold and prominent down to the water's edge, bulg- ing out in the center in a fine pendant broad head, that is venerably magnificent. This, with the view of the firft (licet of the lake, iofing itfelf in the fecond, among hills, rocks, and woods, is pictuiefque. The oppofite fhore confifts of inclofures rifingone above another, and crowned with craggy rocks. Having viewed this romantic fppt we returned back to Shapp, and from thence proceeded to Kendal ; but be- fore we enter on a defcription of that town, it will not be improper, or unwelcome to our readers, to mention the road which leads to it from the above village, which is fifteen miles difiant ; twelve of them are a continued chain of mountainous moors entirely uncultivated, which affords a dreary and melancholy profpect : yet the foil itfelf is capable of improvement and cultivation. But after eroding this barren tract, which brings you within three miles of Kendal, you at once look down from this clefolate country, upon one of the fineft landfcapes in the world ; a noble range of fertile enclofures, richly enamelled with the moft beautiful verdure, prefents it- felf to your eye ; and advancing to the brow of the hill, you have a view of a moft elegant variegated tract of weaving inclofures fpreading over hills, and hanging to the eye, in the moft picturefque and pleafing manner that fancy can conceive. Kendal, or Kirby Kendal, is fo called from its fitua- tion in a dale or valley on the river Ken or Kent which runs near it along the valley in a ftony channel. Dr. Gale would have this place to be the Brovonaca cf Antoninus ; and Camden was once of opinion, that it was the old Roman ftation called Concangium, but he afterwards altered his mind ; however, Horfley fixes Concangium here or near it, and indeed there are ftill to be fcen at this place undeniable evidences of its having been a Roman ftation ; for Roman inferiptions and nlrars ftill remain here ; urns have been found in a bank laid o, en by the river, and ftones and pieces of Reman bricks continue to be thrown up by the plough. Several Roman coins and feals have alfo been found here, one of' which is very curious, and is fuppoled to be Janus R E L A N D. quadrifronts; there has likewife been found a medal of Fauftina. The ramparts of the ancient fort are very dif- cernible, and there was lately a faint appearance of the ditch, though much levelled. The ftation meafures about fix chains from north to fouth, and confequently contained five acres of ground. The town is fuppofed to have flood between the fort and the water, on the weft: fide ; for here they ftill plough up cement and ftones. There are alfo two or three tumuli or barrows at a fmall diftance uithin fight ©f the (ration. This fort, from its fituation, overlooks a fine vale, and is encompaffed with high hills, which on all fides terminate the view. On the weft fide of Kendal is a round artificial mount, within fight of the ftation, very like the exploratory mounts in other places, efpecially near military ways j but whether it be Roman and had a relation to the ftation,. or more modern, and raifed with a view to the caftle, over againft which it is placed, at about the diftance of half a mile, is not eafy to determine. At what time, or by whom Kendal caftle was built, we cannot find in hiftory; but it may be prefumed, that it was the manfion of the ancient barons of Kendal, the firft of whom was Ivo Taleboys, of whofe pofterity William, by content of Henry the Second, called himfelf William of Lan- cafter. Kendal is now a large, handfome, well built, and well paved town, pleafantly feated on the river Ken, or Kent; two hundred and fifty-feven miles from London. It was incorporated by queen Elizabeth, and is at pre- fent governed under a charter of king James the Firft, by a mayor, a recorder, twelve aldermen, twenty- four burgeffes, a town-clerk, and two attornies, with other fubordinate officers. It has feven trading com- panies ; the mercers, fheermen, cordwainers, tanners, glovers, taylors, and pewterers, who have each a diftinct hall ; and here are kept the feflions of the peace for that part of the county called the barony of Kendal. This is the largeft town in the county, it being much fuperior to Appleby in trade, wealth, buildings, and number of inhabitants. It chiefly confifts of two great ftreets neatly paved crofting each other. It ftands on the weft fide of the river, over which there are two ftone bridges, and one of wood, which leads to the caftle. The church is a large and handfome ftructure, fupported by five rows of pillars ; and there belong to it twelve chapels of eafe. On the fide of the church-yard is a well endowed free- fchool, which has exhibitions for fome fcholars to Queen's college in Oxford. Here is alfo a charity-fchool for fix- teen boys and ten girls, who are all cloathed and taught. Kendal has had a confiderable trade in the woollen manu- facture ever fince the reign of Edward III. and par- ticular laws were enacted for regulating the cloth made in this town, as early as the reigns of Richard II. and Henry IV. This town is famous for feveral manufactories ; the chief of them is that of knit ftock- ings, in which it is computed that five thoufand hands are employed, including one hundred and twenty wool-combers, and fix hundred fpinners ; and they are laid to make five hundred and fifty dozen a week. The making of what is called Kendal cottons, is likewife a confiderable manufacture of this town. Thefe are made of Weftmoreland wool, which is very coarfe, and are chiefly for exportation or failors jackets ; and this branch employs three or four hundred hands, particularly fpinners, weavers, and fheermen. Another principal branch of manufacture is linfey wnojfey, made chiefly for home confumption, in which about five hundred weavers are employed, the wool being moflly fpun by the families of the farmers and labourers, who bring it to market. Here are alfo about a hundred tanners ; and likewife about a hundred hands are empl yed in the article of filk; thefe receive the wafte filk from London, boil it in foap, comb, fpin, drefs, and then fend it back to London> Kendal has a weekly market on Saturdays, and two annual fairs, viz. the fixth of May, or horned cattle, and on the 8th of November, for horned cattle, horfes and fheep. t\t this town provifions are very plentiful and cheap : fat ftubble-geele are fold at one fbiJling and 3 Jour- WESTMORE L A N D, four-pence each ; faCfowls at one fhilling a couple ; fat ducks at the fame price. Wild-fowl and game are in fuch plenty, that woodcocks are often fold at two-pence a piece; and partridges are fold cheap in the market. Fifh is in great plenty, and trout frequently fold at a penny a pound. At Witherlake, a village feven miles fouth-weft of Kendal, is a mineral fpring that has a faltifh tafte, and in fummer fmells a little like fulphur, throwing up a whitifh fcum. With oil of tartar it lets fall a pearl- coloured fediment, and with galls it precipitates one that is purple. A gallon yields five hundred and forty-feven grains of fediment, confuting chiefly of a fea-falt and a calcarious earth, with a little mixture of a bitter, purg- ing fait. From experiments made with it it appears, that it is chiefly impregnated with a fea-falt, combined with a kind of calcarious nitre, a little iron, and a fmall quantity of fulphur. It has been found of great ufe in the ftone, gravel, worms, want of appetite, the cachexy, jaundice, and dropfy. At Watercrook, near Kendal, is an old fquare Ro- man fort, the banks and ditches of which are ftill vifible; and here have been found Roman coins, akars, and other remains of antiquity. It has been the opinion of fome, that this was the old Roman ftation called Concangii ; but others believe that it was the ancient Brovoniacum. At Levens, fouth of Kendal, on the bank of the river Can, over which it has a handfome ftone bridge, are ftill to be feen the ruins of an ancient round build- ing, which is called Kirkftiead, and is faid to have been anciently a temple, dedicated to Diana. From Kendal we continued our tour weftward, and came next to Amblefide, fituated near the north end of the great and beautiful lake, called Winander-meer, two hundred and fixty-feven miles from London. It was anciently a large city, as appears from the ruins of walls and the fcattered heaps of rubbifh, with fome re- mains of a fort, fix hundred and fixty feet in length, four hundred in breadth, and fecured by a ditch and rampart. That this was a work of the Romans appears from a variety of circumftances, fuch as the bricks, fmall urns, glafs vials, Roman coins and medals in gold, filver and copper, round ftones refenibling mili-ftones, ufed by the Romans in building large pillars, and the paved ways leading to it. Camden was once of opinion, that this was the Amboglana in the Notitia, but this is not probable ; and, indeed, in another place, he fixes that ftation at Willeford, in Cumberland ; and Korfley, who has examined thefe matters with, perhaps, greater accuracy than any before him, informs us, that the an- cient name of this place was Dictus. This town has a confiderable manufacture of cloth, a weekly market on Wednefdays, and two annual fairs, viz. the firft held on Wednefday in Whitfun- week, for horned cattle j and the other on the twenty-ninth of October, for horned cattle and fheep. About a mile to the north of Amblefide is Ridal-hall, a large, convenient and ancient ftructure ; and in this lordfhip is a very high mountain called R idal-head, from the fummit of which is a very extenfive profpect; for in a clear day Lancafter caftle may be feen, and even the country at a confifterable diftance beyond it. We have already obferved, that the town of Amble- fide is rear the great lake, called Winander-meer, and we now took the opportunity of viewing that beautiful piece of water. In order to this we repaired to the village of Bonus, where we took boat, and rowed to the Ifland, lb called by way of eminence, being much the largeft in the lake. It contains between thirty and forty acres of land, and is one of the moft beautiful ipots in the kingdom. The lake from the fouth end is ex- tremely fine, and prcfents a noble fheet of water, ex- tending feveral miles, and bounded by diftant moun- tains. The fhores are beautifully indented with pro- montories covered with wood jetting into the water in the moft picturefque ftile imaginable, particularly the ferry points on both fides ; it is broke by Berkfhire iiland, an elegant fpot, finely wooded in one p'art, and 7 l 24s by Craw ifland, almoft covered with wood, in another, and juft hides a houfe on the main land. The eaftern fhore is fpread forth with the moft beauti- ful variety. In fome places waving inclofures of corn and grafs rife one above another, and prcl'ent to the eye a fcenery beyond the brighteft ideas of painting Itfelf. In others fhrubby fpots and pendent woods hang down to the very water's edge. In fome places thele woods are broke by a few fmall grafs inclofures of the fweeteft verdure; and in others rvJn jpound large circuits of them, and, rifing to the higher grounds, lofe themfelves in the wilds above. Here you fee flips of hind running into the lake, and covered with trees which feem to rile from the water. There, a boldly indented fhore, (wel- ling into fine bays, and fkirted with fpreading trees, an edging as elegant as ever fancied by Claud himfelf. The village is caught among fome fcattered trees, in a fweet fituation, on the bank of a bay, formed by a promontory of wood, the back ground a fweep of in- clofures, rifing one above another. Following this line of fhoar towards the north, you command Bannerig and Oareft Head, two hills all cut into inclofures to the very top ; to the north you look upon a nobie range of irregular mountains, which con- traft finely with the other more beautiful /hores. The vveftern is* a fine fweep of craggy rocks, here and there fringed with wood. Advancing to the very fat theft point of land, thefe objects are varied, and new ones appear that are truly beautiful. The Lancashire firry point and the woody ifland join, and feem one prodi- gious fine promontory of wood ; the ferry houfe is feen among the trees in a picturefque manner. They form the boundary in front of a fine bay, walled in to the right by a noble rocky cliff ; and in the middle of it a fweet little wocdy ifland. Over the low part of the nro- montory the diftant hills are feen finely. The fhore to the left, here, appears peculiarly beautiful, for half a dozen inclofures of the moft elegant verdure rife from the water's edge among floping woods, and offer a va- riety of colours of the moft picturefque hues. From hence likewife you look back on Bannerig, a fine culti- vated hill, rifing from the lake in a moft pleafing manner. moving from this end of the ifland along the weft coaft of it, the view is extremely picturefque. The ftreight is broke by three iflands, two of them thickly covered with wood, the other a long flip, fcattered with tall upright trees, through the Items of which, and under the thick fhade of their fpreading tops, the water is feen glittering with the fun beams ; a landfcape truly delicious. From the north end of this ifle, fo happy in the beau- ties of profpect, the views are various, and fome of them exquifite. Looking towards the fouth, you command a prodigious fine view of the lake, fpreading to the right and left behind promontories, one beyond another, in a glorioufly irregular fheet of water, encircled by an am- phitheatre of hills, in the nobleft ftile. To the north you look upon another fheet, different from the firft. It is broke by a clufter of four fmall but beautiful iflands. Full in front you look upon a noble fweep of moun- tains, and on one, in particular, that is very curious. It is of a circular form, rifing out of a vaft hollow a- mong the reft, and is overtopped by them; romantic in the higheft degree. A little to the right of it, you com- mand one of the moft noble of cultivated hills. It is in- terfected by hedges, trees, and fcattered woods, into a vaft fweep of inclofures, which reach the very top. A view beautifully magnificent. More to the right, the eye is delighted with the moft elegant waves of cultivated inclofures that can be conceived, rifing to the view in the moft picturefque varieties of landfcape, and forcing admiration from the moft taftelefs of mortals. To the left, a vaft range of rocks and mountains form the boundary of the lake, and project into it in the boldeA manner, Sailing from this noble ifland to that of Berkfhire, a little hilly wood of fcattered trees, the views are va^ 3 Q, riourj 24 2 W ESTMORELAND. rious, rich, snd truly picturefque. From the north fide of it you look upon a fine fheet of water, to the Great Ifland, &c. and bounded by a noble variety of fhore. To the left, and in front, high ridges of hills and mountains. To the right, moft beautiful waving hills of inclofures; fome juft rifing enough to fhew their hedges diftinctlv, and others hanging full to the eye; beneath, a boundary of rough hills, and wild, unculti- vated ground. To the left, you fee Crow ifland, which appears fine ; and the ferry-houfe, beneath a clump of trees, on the point of a promontory, jetting into the water, with an effect really exquifite. To the eaft, you look againft a very fine bank of inclofures, moft ele- gantly fcattered with trees. To the fouth, the lake is loft between two promontories, projecting into it againft each other, and leaving a fine ftrait between. One is high and rocky ; the other, a line of waving wood and inclofures, and catch beyond it the diftant hills, which complete the view. The weftern piofpect is on to a range of craggy hills ; fome moft beautifully fringed with hanging woods, and cut in the middle by a cul- tivated wave of inclofures, broken by woods, hedges, clumps, and fcattered trees, and rifing one above another, in the moft picturefque irregularity that fancy can fuppofe. At the top, a farm-houfe, under a clump of trees ; the whole forming a bird's eye landfcape of the moft delicious kind. Nor can any thing be finer than the hanging woods on this fide of the lake, broken by grafs inclofures of a beautiful verdure. Sailing acrofs the lake from Berkfhire to the fhore under thefe inclofures, which are called Round Table, nothing in nature can be more exquifite than the view, as you move, of a fine, long, grafs inclofure, at the water's edge, on the oppofite fhore, bounded by fine woods, except to the lake, edged with fome fpreading trees, through which the view of the grafs is truly pictu- refque. Other waving Hopes of inclofures, to the right, hang to the lake, under the (hade of a rough, wild hill, and down to a fkirting of wood, on the water's edge, in the fincft manner. Behind, the rocky cliff of Four- nefs Fells, has a noble appearance, crowned with a fweep of wood. Sailing under the weftern fhore, you command moft beautiful landscapes on the oppofite one, confiding of the fineft banks of cultivated inclofures, fcattered with trees, clumps of wood, farm houfes, &c. and hanging to the water's edge in the moft charming variety of fitua- tion ; the fields in fome places dipping in the very lake, in others thick woods rifing from the water ; fcenes which call for the pencil of a genius to catch graces from nature beyond the reach of the moft elaborate art. Coming to Ling Holm, a fmall rocky ifland, with a few trees on it, you have a double view of the two fhore?, finely contrafted, the weftern fpread with noble hanging woods, and the eaftern one cultivated hills, waving to the eye in the fineft inequalities of furface. The diftant hills are alfo feen in a bold fiile over the low inclofures of Rawlinfon's Nab, a promontory to the fouth. Landing on the point of that promontory the view is very noble, it commands two glorious fheets of water, north and fouth, each of four or five miles in length. That to the fouth is bounded in general by rough woody hills, broken in a few fpots by little inclofures. In front of the promontory, feveral very beautiful ones, cut by irregular fweeps of wood, and hanging to the water's edge in the fineft manner; the whole crowned with craggy tops of hills. But the view to the north is much the moft beautiful. Berkfhire ifland breaks the flieet of water in one place, and adds to the picturefque variety of the fcene without injuring its noble fimplicity. Common Nab, a pro- montory from the eaft ftiore, projects into it in another place, elegantly variegated with wood and inclofures, waving over Hoping hills, and crowned with rough un- cultivated ground. One inclofure in particular breaks into the wood in the moft picturefque manner ima- ginable. This end of the lake is bounded by the noble kills of cultivated inclofures^ already mentioned, which are viewed from hence to much advantage ; they rife from the fhore with great magnificence. To the left a ridge of hanging woods, fpread over wild romantic ground, that breaks into bold projections, abrupt and fpirited, contrafting the elegance of the oppofite beautiful fhore in the fineft manner. But the moft beautiful view of this lovely fcene is from the fide of a large ridge of hills that form the eaftern boundaries of the lake, the fituation being high enough to look down upon all the objects. A circum- ftance of great importance, and which painting cannot imitate. In landfcapes, you are either on a level with the objects, or look up to them ; the painter cannot give the declivity at your feet, which lefiens the objects as much in the perpendicular line as in his horizontal one. You look down upon a noble winding valley of about twelve miles long, every where inclofed with grounds which rife in a very bold and various manner; in fome places bulging into mountains, abrupt, wild, and un- cultivated ; in others, breaking into rocks, craggy, pointed, and irregular. Here, rifing into hills covered with the nobleft woods, prefenting a gloomy brownnefs of Ihade, almoft from the clouds to the reflection of the trees in the limpid water they fo beautifully fkirt. There, waving in glorious flopes of cultivated inclofures, adorn- ed in the fweeteft manner with every object that can give variety to art, or elegance to nature ; trees, woods, villages, houfes, farms, fcattered with picturefque con- fufion, and waving to the eye in the moft romantic landfcapes that nature can exhibit. This valley, fo beautifully inclofed, is floated by the lake, which fpreads forth to the right and left in one vaft but irregular expanfe of tranfparent water. A more noble object can hardly be imagined. Its immediate fhore is traced in every variety of line that fancy can imagine, fometimes contracting the lake into the ap- pearance of a noble winding river ; at others retiring from it, and opening large fwelling bays, as if for navies to anchor in ; promontories fpread with woods, or fcat- tered with trees and inclofures, projecting into the water in the moft picturefque ftile imaginable : rocky points breaking the fhore, and rearing their bold heads above the water. In a word, a variety that amazes the beholder. But what finifhes the fcene with an elegance too de- licious to be imagined, is, this beautiful fheet of water being dotted with no lefs than ten iflands, diftinctly commanded by the eye ; all of the moft bewitching beauty. The large one prefents a waving various line, which rifes from the water in the moft picturefque ine- qualities of furface : high land in one place, low in another ; clumps of trees in this fpot, fcattered ones in that ; adorned by a farm-houfe on the water's edge, and backed with a little wood, vieing in fimple elegance with Baromean palaces. Some of the fmaller ifles rifing from the lake like little hills of wood, fome only fcat- tered with trees, and others of grafs of the fineft ver- dure; a more beautiful variety no where to be feen. Strain your imagination to command the idea of fo noble an expanfe of water thus glorioufly environed ; fpotted with iflands more beautiful than would have iffued from the. pencil of the happieft painter. Picture the mountains rearing their majeftic heads with native fublimity ; the vaft rocks boldly projecting their terrible craggy points. And in the path of beauty, the variegated inclofures of the moft charming verdure, hanging to the eye in every picturefque form that can grace a landfcape, with the moft exquifite touches of la belle nature. If you raife your fancy to fomething infinitely beyond this aflemblage of rural elegancies, you may have a faint notion of the unexampled beauties of this ravifhing landfcape. After viewing this beautiful lake, we proceeded to Kirby Lonfdale, that is, the church or kirk in the dale of the river Lone, it ftanding in a vale by the river Lone, two hundred and thirty-two miles from London. It is a large, well built town, has a handfome church, and a good ftone bridge over the river. It is well inha- bited, and is the beft town in the county, except Kendal. WESTMORELAND. 243 Kendal. Here was an hofpital of lepers, dedicated to St. Leonard, as earlv as the reign of king Henry II. but at the time of the diflblution, its revenues were valued at no more than eleven pounds, four (hillings and three- pence, a year. It has a manufacture of woollen cloth, a weekly market on Tuefdays, and two annual fairs, viz. one on Holy Thurfday, for horned cattle ; and the other on the twenty-fiift of December, for wcllen cloth. At Wellington, near Kiiby Lonfdale, is a bridge over the river Lone, which, for its antiquity and curious workmanfhip, exceeds any in the north of England. It confifts of three femicircular arches, and is, by fome, fuppofed to be a work of the Romans, but others think it of later date. It is entirely built of a fine free ftone, truly fquared, the ftones almoft all of a fize, and the joints are fo firm and even, that they are hardlv to be difcovered. The arches are all turned with mouldings at the edges, and the whole defign has been executed with the utmoft exadlnefs, both for ftrength and beauty. The water under the middle arch is fifteen feet in fummer, when the river is very low, and in winter it is almoft twice as deep, and vaftly rapid. We next vifited Burton, fituated in a valley near the borders of Lancafhire, and not far from Farlton-knot- hill, two hundred and forty-four miles from London. It is a thoroughfare town, on the road from Lancafter to Carlifle ; but contains nothing worthy of obfervation. It js about a quarter of a mile in length, and has a find 11 weekly market on Tuefdays ; but no annual fair. Four miles to the north of Burton, is Milthorp, a village feated about a mile and a half to the weft of the road to Kendal, upon an arm of the fea, near the mouth of the river Ken. Commodities are brought hither in fmall velTels from Lancafhire; and here is an annual fair, held on the twelfth of May, for horned cattle, horfes, and lheep. Curious Plants found in Weftmoreland. Small mofs maiden-hair, with leaves divided into two or three fegments. Adiantum petraeum perpufidum Angli- cum foliis bifidis vel trifdis. Found on Buzzard rough crag, near Wrenoie. Broad leaved mountain garlick, with purple flowers. Allium fylveftre amphicarpon foliis porraceis, floribus cif nuclcis purpureis. An allium feu moly montanum primum, Cluf. Jn Troutbeck-holm, by Great Strickland. Small birtort, or fnakeweed, Biflorta minor noflras, Park. In feveral places of this county, as at Crofby Ravenfworth. Eye-bright cow-wheat, with fhort blunt leaves, Cra- taegonon foliis brevibus obtufis JVtflmorlandicum Near Orton, by the fide of a rivulet, running by the way that leads thence to Crofby. Birds cherry, Cerafus avium five padus Theophrafi. Common among the mountains. The leaft wild heart cherry-tree, vulgarly called the • merry-tree. Cerafus fylveflris fruclu minimo cordiformi, P. B. About Rofgiii. Hoary dwarf mountain ciftus, or holy-rofe, with cats-foot leaves, Cbamaecijlus feu he'ianthemum folio ■pbi'ofe/lae minoris Fiubfi, J. B. On fome rocks near Kendal. Dwarf vernal gentian, Gentianella fugax verna feu praecox. On the back fide of Helie-fell -nab, near Kendal, as alfo in the parks on the ot,.er fide of Kendal, on the back of Biikhog. It begins to flower in April, and continues to flower till June. Crow-foot cranefbi',1, with a party-coloured flower. Geranium batradmdes fore elegantcr var legato. In Old Deer-park, by Thornthwait. This, though it may be but an accidental variety, yet is fo ornamental to a garden, that it deferves to be taken notice »f. Mountain crow-foot cranefbill, Geranium batrachoides montanum nojlras. In the hedges, and among the bufhes in the mountainous meadows and paftures of this county. Stone fern, with flender brittle ftalks and finely cut leaves. Filix faxatilis caule tenui fragili. Adiantum album folio filicis, J. B. On old ftone walls and rocks, plen- tifully. Small flowering ftone-fern. Filicula petraea crifpa feu adiantum album floridum perclegans. At the bottom of ftone walls made up with earth in Orton parifh, and other places, plentifully. The lefTer branched fern. Filix ramofa minor, J. B. On the fides of the mountains, in fhady places, efpecially. Water gladiole. Leucoium paluflre fore fubcoeruleo, C. B. In a pool called Huls-water, and in Winander- mere, plentifully. Grafs upon grafs. Gramen fparteum fpica foliacea gra- minea rnajus, P. B. In an ifle called Houfeholm, in Huls-water. The lefTer white flowered baftard hellebore. Helle- borine minor fore albo, Park. In Sir John Lowther's wood, directly againft Afkham-hall. The fmoother broad-leaved bufhy hawkweed. Hiera- cium fruticofum latifolium glabrum, Park. Near a lake called Huls-water. Round-leaved rough hawkweed, with a long ftalk, Hieracium macrocaidon hirfutum folio rotundiore, D. Law- fon. By Bucbarrow-well, in long Sledale. Small rufh, with its fhaft produced to a great length above its compact panicle, f uncus parvus Calamo feu fcapo fupra paniculam compailam longius product o Ncivtoni. N oc far from Amblefide. Mountain dwarf juniper, called by the country people favine, as well here as in Wales. Juniperus Alpina, J. B. Clus. Park. Upon the tops of the mountains. Narrow leaved lilly-convally, Lilium convallium an- guflifolium, D. Lawfon. By Water-fall bridge, and elfwhere in this county. Common fpignell, or meu. Afeum, Ger. vulgatius. Park, foliis anetbi, C. B. About two miles from Sed- berg, in the way to Orton, abundantly in the meadows and paftures, where it is known to all the country people by the name of bald-money, or (as they pronounce it) bawd-money. Round-leaved mountain-forrel, Oxalis feu acctofa ro- tund folia repens Eboracenfis folio in medio deliquium patiente, Morif. Hift. In Long Sledale, near Bucbarrow-well, and all along the rivulet that runs by the well, for a mile or more. This never degenerates into the common Roman or French forrel. Codded arfmart, quick in hand, touch me not, Noli me tangere, five perficaria fdiquofa> Park. On the banks of Winander-mere, near Amblefide, and in many other places, plentifully. Crofs-wort madder. Rubia ereila quadrifolia, J. B, Near Orton, Winander-mere, and elfewhere, plen- tifully. Bay-leaved fweet willow, Salix folio laurco five lato glabra odorato, P. B. Frequent by the river lides, in the meadows among the mountains. Cinque-foil ladies mantle, Tormentilla argentea, Park, Alpina folio fericeo. On the rocks by the fide of the lake called Ulles-water. The great bilberry bufh. Vitis idaea ?nagna five myr- tiilus grandis, J. B. In the foreft of Whintield. Hare.'-tail-rufh, or mofs-crops, Gramen juncoides lana- tum alterum Danicum, Park. On mofles and boggy places. Members of Parliament for this County. Weftmoreland fends four members to parliament; two knights of the fhire for the county, and burgefles for the borough of Appleby. THE ( 244 ) « •• ,.• «»v ni>« *4* *4* '4* *4* *^ *^* "4* *4' *4* "4" "4* *4* *4* *S* *4* *4* "4* *4* *4* ' sJXv<^*^^ IS EBBEBSEEEBEESBEEBBEB g» ^.^#"^.0** G* Oife-v r-M max bees «* bbbb ^vy":,,,, : ,,^':^ *5 ^f^*t v; ItoC BEEEBSBS BEBEBEE ^^^f R O EEEBEEBaBBEEBBBEEBEB 0 9^^& * <4$f *Sc & ,?«\ «!5n «<5* •»S« *5» *w» 'fl* "S* •™* > *** *"^* "fl** •ip* w» THE PRINCIPALITY 0 F w A E what time Wales was firft di- into counties, is not certain- '""^ !§■ ly known ; Caermarthenfhire, Gla- a n| morganfhire, Pembrokefhire, Car- diganfhire, Flintfhire, Caernarvon- fhire, Anglefea, and Merionyth- fliire, feem to have been of antient date in the time of Edward I. to thefe eight, Radnorshire, Brecknockfhire, A4ontgomery- fhire, and Denbighfhire, were added by ad of parlia- ment in the reign of Edward VIII. The firft divifion of Wales upon record, was about the year 870, when Roderick, king of Wales, divided it among three fbns, into three diftri&s, which were called kingdoms, and diftinguifhed by the names of South Wales, Powis Land, and North Wales. This divifion gave rife to many wars, in which the kingdom of Powis Land was portioned among the conquerors, and annexed partly to South Wales, and partly to North Wales ; divifions which fubfift even to this day. South Wales, containing Cardiganshire, Pembrokefliire, Caer- marthenfhire, Giamorganfhire, Brecknockfhire, and Rad- norfhire ; and North Wales, containing Flintfhire, Caer- narvonfhire, Mongomeryfhire, Merionythfhie, Denbigh- fhire, and the county of Anglefea. In the time of the Saxons, that form of goverment was cftablifhcd, which, with fome circumftantial varia- tions, has continued ever fince. During the heptarchy there was in each of the feven kingdoms a council that aflifled the fovereign j and there was alfo on particular occafions, a general council,_con- fifting of reprefentatives, deputed by the particular coun- cils to aflilt in fuch affairs of government as concerned the whole heptarchy, confidered as a common intereft. Thefe councils, or affemblies, called wetanagemor, are fuppofed to have been the foundation of Biitifh parlia- ments ; hut it has never yet been clearly determined, whether in thefe wetenagemots the commons had repre- fentatives, whether the legeflative power was in the perfoa of the king, in the general council, or in both together j or whether the king had a right to levy taxes by his own authority j but it feems to be generally agreed, that: fome members of the wetenagemot, whether it confifted of lords only, or of lords and commons, were eccle- fiaftic, and that its determinations extended to ecclefiaf- tical matters. To our Saxon anceftors we alfo owe the ineflimabla privilege, which the commons of England enjoy, of being tried by a jury, twelve men fworn to determine juftly according to evidence, whether the party accufed is guilty or not guilty of the faff, charged againft him s when this queflion is determined, the judge pronounces fuch fentence upon the offender as the law prefcribes. It feems therefore to be not only impertinent, but highly injurious, for thofe who are employed to plead againft a prifoner in criminal profecutions, to declaim in a long and laboured harangue, on the heinoufnefs of the offence fuppofed to have been committed, and to enumerate every minute and fuppofitious circumftance by which id- is pofhble to accumulate aggravation ; it is impertinent^ becaufe if the crime is capital, the judge has no difcre- tionary power, either to mitigate or increafe the punifh- ment, whether the offence is fimple or complicated, or wnether it was committed with circumftanccs that ex- tenuate or aggravate the guilt ; it is injurious bectufe it inflames the minds of the jury, and makes them impa- tient to punifh the offence before it has been proved, and confrquently liable to punifh it, when the proof is in- fufficient. After the Norman conqueft many alterations were- made from time to time in the form of government, and the manner in which it was adminiftered. Wales continued to be governed by its own princes and laws till the year 1282, when JJewiIlin ap Gryffith, prince of that country, loft both his life and principality 10 king Edward I. who created his own lbn prince of a Wales : WALES. Wales ; and ever fince the rid eft fons of the kings of England have been commonly created prince of Wales. Of the ancient Inhabitants. The character of the ancient inhabitants of this ^ouutry is given us in very unfavourable terms, by many hiftorians. The Englifh in thofe times were almoft always in a ftate of war with this people, and were biaf- fed bv their intereft and paflions to reprelent them in the moft odious colours. Giraldus Cambrenfis, whofe con- nections anddefcent might have prejudiced him in favour of this country, failed not to pay court to Henry II. by traducing the Welfh. What is ftill more extraordinary, the accurate and ingenious lord Lyttleton, has implicitly adopted the character given of them by the falfe and in- famous Giraldus. They are reprefented by thefe hifto- rians, as having no kind idea of chaftity. Promifcuous concubinage, they fay, was in a manner allowed, and no fti^ma fixed upon it. If my lord Lyttleton had con- fultedHowel Dha's code, he would there have feen how highly they difapproved of even the appearances of an unlawful commerce between the fexes. It was even lawful if a man betrothed a woman, who did not prove to be a virgin, he was at liberty to repudiate her. Thus we fee how cautioufly the Welfh laws guarded the morals of the women, and how unjuftly they were accufed by Giraldus, and thofe that have afferted the fame on his authority. The manners of every uncivilized nation are in fome degree fimilar. Sixteen hundred years ago, the inhabitants of Wales were nearly in the fame ftate of civilization, as the American favages are at this day. We are told of Jofeph of Arimethea's coming to Britain to plant the gofpel. This depends upon the authority of the monkifh hiftorians, who fcarce contain a word of truth or probability. But it is allowed that fome kind of chriftianity was planted very early in Britain, before the coming of the Saxons. Long after the Saxons came over they continued Pagans ; whilft the Britons, according to thefe hiftorians, enjoyed the light of the gofpel. Before thefe Britons were converted to chriftianity, one would think it was neceffary to convert them from favages to men. From accounts given, their converfion to chriftia- nity meant no more than their being baptifed, without fo much as the imparting of any kind of faith or know- ledge. This is precifely the cafe with the modern mif- fionaries, who fend accounts of the converfion of thou- fands, who have only been ceremonioufly baptifed, without chriftian inftruction. In the time of Henry II. the inhabitants of Wales were fo deplorably dark, that they could not with the leaft propriety be called chriftians, and many of them even profeffed pagans. The Don-Quixot archbifhop, with his Sancho-Pancha, Giraldus, went upon an ex- pedition to convert thefe Heathens. The archbifhop preached to the poor Welfh in Latin, they were baptifed, kiffed the crofs, and fo the miffion ended, to their no fmall edification. So late as the reign of Elizabeth, if we may believe Penry, there were but two or three that could preach in the whole principality of Wales. Some of late years have greatly promoted the caufe of religion, by the tranflation of pious books into that language, and dif-> tributing them among the poor. There is ftill great room for improvement, as they are not only in want, but defirous of religious knowledge. In former times, the inhabitants of Wales were defcribed to be a nation of foldiers. Every man being obliged to take up arms, in times of diftrefs. Thus, though a fmall country, they could bring large armies to the field. They ufed very light armour, as they carried on the war by incurfions, and forced marches ; and conquered their enemies rather by furprife, than ftrength or courage. They had only a fmall target to defend their breaff, and ufed the javelin as a weapon of offence. Thus armed, and thus defended, they were no way equal to the Englifh in a pitched battle, who fought with heavy armour, helmets and targets, and armed at all points. They always fought on foot. Like all undifciplined foldiers, they made one furious onfet, which if refilled, they were immediately put in confufion, and could not be rallied. They fled to the mountains, where they waited for another opportunity to fall upon their enemies. They defpifed trade and mechanical arts, as they \t\ general do to this day. Though they had no money among them, yet there were no beggars in the country for they were all poor. They are defcribed to have been impetuous in their difpofition, fickle, revengeful, and bloody. But let it be remembered, that this character is given them by their enemies. Their fuperftition was excefllve. They paid the greateft veneration to their priefts, and looked upon them and their habitations as facred. The marches of Wales comprehended the greateft; part of the counties of Chefter, Salop, Hereford, and Worcefter. They were claimed both by the Saxons and the Britons ; and poffefTed by either, as the fortune of war prevailed. They were the fcenes of continual wars and devaftation. It was the wife policy of the times to give large eftates to men of diftinguifhed valour, to preferve the frontier counties from rapine and violence, who were called lords-marchers. They had great num- bers of men under their command, who fwore fealty to them, and were under their direction upon all occafions. Their power was fo great, that they might rather be confidered as petty princes than fubjects. In the time of king OfFa, the Welfh loft the greateft: part of the marches ; and that prince, either with a view of preventing their incurfions, or marking the boun- daries of their country, threw up a dyke, which ftill re- mains in many places. Having premifed thefe few obfervatibns relating to the country and ancient inhabitants of Wales, in general, we fhall now proceed to defcribe the feveral counties in I the manner we palled through them in our tour. F~% J, jr* k ©4.0 & i « 7? FLINTSHIRE. ( 2 4 6 ) FLINTSHIRE. FLINTSHIRE is a county of North Wales, and derives its name from Flint, the county-town. It is bounded by an arm of the Irifii fea, which forms the great seftuary of the river Dee on the north ; by part of Denbighlhire on the fouth ; by Chefhire on the eaft ; by Shropfhire on the fouth; and by another part of Denbighlhire and the Irifh fea on the weft. Of all the counties in Wales this is the leaft, extending in breadth about eight miles, only, in length about thirty- three, and about feventy in circumference. It is divided into five hundreds, and twenty-eight parifhes; in which are included one city, three market town?, four caflles, and two parks ; about eight thoufand houfes, and thirty- two thoufand inhabitants. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and partly in the diocefe of St. Afaph, and partly in that of Chefter. Holy-well, a market-town near the center of it, is about two hundred miles north- weft of London. ■ R I VERS. The principal rivers with which this county is water- ed, are the Dee, the Wheeler, the Alen, the Clwyd, and the Sevion. The Dee we have already defcribed among the rivers of Chefhire. The Wheeler rifcs near Caerwys, and running weftward falls into the Clwyd, almoft oppofite to Denbigh, The Alen rifes fome miles fouth of Ruthin in Denbighlhire, and running firft a f " miles north, afteru rqs directs its coufie eaftward, and falls into the Dee, v th of Wrexham, in Denbigh- fhire. J he courfe of the Clwyd will be mentioned among the rivers of Denbighfhire. The Sevion rifes on the' north fide of Caerwys, and running to the weft- WarJ, falls into the Clwyd, a few miles north- weft of the city of St- Afph. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Flimihire. The inland navigation 'of this county is v;ry trifling ; that cf the river Dee, which waters the north -weft corner of it, has been already defcribed in onr.furvey of "Chefhire. By this river fmall veflels pafs up to Flint. The mouth of the river Clyde is alfo navigable to fome diftance above St. Afaph. But no attempt has ever been made to render either of the rivers navigable by art. Indeed there are no towns of fufficient importance to defray the expences attending all works of that kind. Air, Soil, and Natural Productions. The air of this county is healthy and pleafant ; but rendered extremely cold by the north winds, to which it is almoft wholly exp- produce ». >. _ as he is reputed by fome 3 though others look upon him to have been a very learned, ingenious and pious man. Gildar, alfo one of our moft ancient Englifh writers, was a rrionk in this abbey, and abbot in the year 600. This monaftery, it is affirmed, was fupplied with learned men, at the coming of St. Auguftine into England. It flood in a valley, as Leknd informs us, yet had a cir- cumference like a walled town, with two gates, half a mile diftant from each other. Bede acquaints us, that the number of monks in this monaftery was fo great, that when divided into feven parts, every part confifted of at leaft three hundred men. We have no account of the founder handed down to us, or of its revenues ; but the laft n® doubt were very great. It was deftroyed foon after Auguftine came into England, becaufe the monks refufed" to fubmit to his Romifh ceremonies. However, at his inftigation, Ethelfred invaded the Britons in Wales, who, coming againft that prince, took the monks with them to pray for their fuccefs : but Ethelfred being conqueror, killed above one thoufand two hundred of them, naked and unarmed as they were. After this the monaftery went fo to decay, that William of Malmefbury, who lived foon after the conqueft, affirms, there was nothing here, in his time, but the rums of churches, walls and gates, together with heaps $f rubbifh. In this diftric"f. there are about four or five parifhes ; the principal is that of Hanmer, which extends about four miles in length, and near the fame in breadth, and is divided into fix townfhips. In this parifii the face of the country is generally level, and the foil in fome parts a deep clay, and in others dry and fandy. The land is manured with lime and marie, and produces wheat, barley, oat*;, peas, and beans, and confiderable quanti- ties of cheefe are made there. The inhabitants burn coal and turf, and the latter is dug up here in great abundance. The church, which is in the diocefe of Chefter, is dedicated to St. Chad, bifhop of Litchfield. It ccnfifts of a nave, a chancel, and two fide ifles. At the weft end is a tower, with a clock and four bells, and there is no chapel of eafe in the parifh. The prin- cipal feats is Hanmer hall and Redhall, both belonging to the family of the Hanmers. On the weft fide of the church is a fchool, endowed with about t.widve pounds, per annum, where the poor children of Lie parifh are taught gratis. Having remarked every thing which merited our obfervation in our way to Flint, we now p.^ceed to a defcription of that town, it is a fmall place, commodi ufly fituated on the seftuary of the river Dee, where it has a trifling harbour, one hundred and ninety-four miles from London, and is governed by a mayor and burgeffes. Here is a caftle begun by king Henry II. and finifhed by king Edward I. king Richard II. on his return from Ireland, was for fome time entertained here ; but on his departure, was taken prifoner by Henry ,,o- lingbroke, duke of Lancafter, and not long after put to death* Formerly veffels coming up the wide mouth of the river Dee, anchored under the walls of this caftle. There have been!, within the memcry of man, rings in the walls to which fhips ufed to be faftencd. I'he caftle now belongs to the crown, but is in a very ruinous ' condition. It is ufed at prefent as the county, gaol ; the affizes are likewife annually held here; and the mayor is ftiled governor of the caftle; This town fends one member to parliament, and has four annual fairs, viz. on February the fourteenth, June the twenty-fourth, Auguft the tenth, and No- vember the thirtieth for cattle. From Flint we proceeded to Holy-Well, or as it is called in the Britifh language, Tre-fynnon, that is, the town of the well, fituated on the fide of a hill, about two hundred miles from London. It is a remarkable neat well-built town, confifting principally of one long ftreet, in which there are. not only feveral good inns, but many genteel houfes. It took its name from a celebrated fpring, which, according to the Popifh U/oends, it is laid rofe miraculoufly frorp the blood of V V ,'"j"-'' J ,- ~ K vftian virgin, who was ravifhed and beheaded in this place by „ ] . t-l , , c r , /, a r^rran tyrant. 1 he water breaks out from a rock of frccfton/ with fuch a rapid ltream, as, within a fmall a;n«^., , ^ ^jg t0 t ^ rn feveral mills. Over the head of it, was buiJt a cn^i, dedicated to St. Winefrid, by the monks of Bafin^werk, a place in the neighbourhood. In a window of the chancel was formerly to be feen St. Winefrid's ftory, and her pretended reftoration to life, by St. Beuno, painted on the glafs windows of the chancel. The prefent ftructure was erected in the time of king Henry VII. and confifts of very neat workmanfhip. The front is compofed of a kind of fmall pediment, fupported by flender ftone-pillars, under which the water flows, and on the infide are feveral crutches, left as monuments by tho.e who received the ufe of their limbs by this water. The rapidity of the ftream, and the great quantity of water it difcharges, have cauicd fome perfons to fufpect. that it is a lubterraneous rivulet, which the miners might have turned to that channel ; it being their common practice, when they meet with currents under ground, to divert them to fome fwall ow. And this is confirmed from an obfer- vation, that after much rain, the water often appears muddy; and fometimes of a ; bluifh colour, as if it had waftied fome lead mine, or 'proceeded from tobacco- P'P* FLINTSHIRE. pipe clay. To this it is added, that it feems to have happened, fince the time of Giraldes, it not being like- ly, that lb noble a fountain would have efcaped his ob- fervacion, had it then exifted. However it appears, that it was not frequented by pilgrims at that time, nor at all celebrated for miraculous cures, or the memory of St. Beuno and Winefrid, though they lived about five hun- dred years before Giraldus. Dr. Powel is of opinion, that the monks of Bafmgwerk, which is within half a mile of this place, for their own private ends, firft broached thefe fabulous miracles. This abbey was not founded till about one hundred years after Giraldus, be- fore whole time, no writer takes notice of the romantic origin and miracles of this fountain. Holywell has a weekly market on Fridays, and three fairs annual, viz. on April the twenty-third, Tuefday after Trinity-Sun- day, and September the fecond, for cattle. A little to the north of Holywell is Moflyn moun- tain, on the mod level part of which is a carved fione pillar, eleven feet three inches in height above the pedeftal, two feet four inches broad, and eleven inches thick. The pedeftal is five feet long, four and a half broad, and about fourteen inches thick. The pillar is let through it, and reaches about five inches below the bottom ; fo that its whole length is about thirteen feet. When this monument was erected, or by what nation, it is hard to fay ; but fome think it is a work of the Danes; and Dr. Plot, in his hiftory of StafFord- Ihire, gives us the draughts of a monument or two, which agree very well with it in the chequered carving. There is another very like it, at Beau caftle in Cumberland, infcribed with Runic charac- ters, which is prefumed to have been a funeral monu- ment. But the characters on the eaft fide of this are nothing like the Runic, nor any letters hitherto taken notice of. Within a furlong or lefs of this monument, is an artificial mount or barrow, and there are about twenty more in this neighbourhood, where there have been formerly difcovered a great many bones ; for which reafon, this pillar has been fuppofed to be a monu- ment of fome fignal victory ; and the rather, becaufe, upon digging five or fix feet under it, no bones were difcovered, nor any thing elfe that might occafion it to be thought fepulchral. Near Holywell is Bafmgwerk, a village where Ralph earl of Chefter, about the year 1131, founded a monaftery, which was probably much improved, and converted into an abbey of Ciftertian monks, by king Henry II. in 1 159. It was dedicated to St. Mary, and at the time of the diffblution, its revenues were valued by Dugdale, at one hundred and fifty pounds a year, but at one hundred and fifty-eight pounds .by Speed. Part of it is in ruins, but one ^ feems to be pretty entire, an^ - - -•- - "acq a large ''From Holywell the road runs weftward to Rhudland, jyj,;,.!, :- vijfcvriUea at the mouth or the river Clwyd, near eleven miles weft of Holywell, and received its name from the reddifh colour of the bank of the river on which it is feated. It had a very handfome caftle built by Llwellin, ap Sitfilht, prince of Wales, before the Norman conqueft, and was his chief palace, but it was burnt by Harold, the fon of earl Godwin, in the year 1063. Robert de Rhudland, nephew and captain lieutenant to the earl of Chefter, in. the year 1098, took it from the Welfti, and fortified it with fome ad- ditional works. Henry II. afterwards repaired it, and beftowed it on Hugh Beauchamp. The Englifh parlia- ment was held here, in the reign of Edward I. and the ftatute of Rhudland is ftill in force. In the twenty-firft year of that king, John Roman was in full parliament condemned for excommunicating the bifliop of Durham, while he was in the king's fervice. However, on his fubmiflion, he was fined four thou- fend marks to the king, and this fine, according to tradition, was given towards repairing the caftle. King Edward II. kept three chriftmafies here, and it now be- longs to the crown. Great part 0/ the walls are ftill ftanding, upon an eminence near the river. Befides this ftructure, there was a priory of that name, which ftands between St. Afaph and the fea, on the eaftern bank of the river Clwyd, which is now in the poffef- fion of Robeit Davies, Efq ; It is not very far from the caftle, and moft of the walls are ftill ftanding j but it is put to no manner of ufe. Rhudland is now but a mean village, though it was formerly a confulerable town ; for there is a gate at leaft half a mile from the village. One of the towers in the caftle is called Twr y Brenin, that Is, the king's tower; below the hill, on the bank of a river, we find another, apart from the caftle, called Twrhlod. Offa, king of Mercia, and Meredyth, king of Dyvid, died at the battle fought at Rhud- land, in the year 794. It has no market, but has ftill three fairs, held on the fecond of February, the twenty-fifth of March, and the eighth of September, all for cattle. Below the caftle, the river Clwyd falls into the fea ; and though the valley at the mouth of the river feems lower than the fea itielf, yet it has never been overflowed. Hence the fhore defcends gradually to the eaft ward. From Holywell we continued our journey to Caerwys, or Caerwis, a good market town, one hundred and ninety one miles from London ; but remarkable only for being the place at which was held the laft feffion of the poets, muficians and bards, that fate by Royal Authority ; the commiflion being dated in the ninth of queen Elizabeth, and directed to William Maftyn, and others of the chief gentle- men of North Wales, and importing that the an- ceftors of the faid William Maftyn had the right of bellowing the filver harp on the peifon whom the com- miflioners judged moft worthy. This town has a weekly market on Tuefdays, and fix annual fairs, viz. March the fixteenth, the laft Tuefday in April, Trinity-Thurfday, the firft Tuefday after jjuly the feventh, September the ninth, and No- vember the tenth* all for cattle. We next vinted the city of St. Afaph, which derives its name from St. Afaph, its patron faint, who was the fecond bifliop of that fee, and is 'called by the Welfh Lhan-Elwy, from its fituation at the influx of the river Elwy into the Clwyd, two hun- dred and twelve miles from London. It ftands in the rich and pleafant vale of Clwyd ; but is at prefent more famous for its antiquity than either its extenfivenefs or beauty, it having but few good houfes. It was firft founded by Kantegarn, bifhop of Glafo-r>«^ in Scotland, who bein? driven <" «iau kingdom 1 _ — u.iuuiv, or the lixth century, founded here an epifcopal chair, and monaftery, and became himfelf the firft bifhop of this fee; but returning foon after into Scotland, he appointed St. Afaph his fucceffor. We have no account of this monaftery after the death of St. Afaph, which happened in 596, and in- deed but very little of the bifhops who filled the epif- copal chair, before the year 1 143. Hiftory, however, informs us, that the church was burnt by Owen Glandowen, about the year 1402, but it was afterwards rebuilt by bifliop Redwan, in the reigns of Edward IV. and Henry VII. and by the bifhops David Owen and Henry Standifb, in the reign of Henry VIII. The church is erected in the form of a crois, and is one hundred and feventy feet in length ; and over it is a plain tower, ninety-three feet high, ftanding on four pillars. This town has a weekly market on Saturdays, and four annual fairs, viz. on Eafter Tuefday, the fifth of July, the fixteenth of October, and the twenty- fixth of December, all for cattle. On the confines of this county and Denbighfliire, where the mountains by a gentle declivity feem to retire, and afford an eafier pafs into the vale ; Camden is of opinion the Romans built a fmall city called Varis, 3 D E N B I G Varis, which Antoninus places nineteen miles from Canovium. This he thinks is farther confirmed by its being now called Bod Vari, which fignifies the manfion of Varus; and there are the ruins of a city on a fmall hill adjoining, called Mael y gaer, that is, the city hill : but the annotator, though he does not deny that Varis may be feated at Bod-Vari, yet he thinks Mael y gaer is but a flender confirmation of it. However, it is certain, that place receives its name from the fortifications or entrenchments that are yet to be feen there ; for the word Gaer or Caer, figni - fies ftridtly only a wall, fortrefs, or enclofure. This being prefixed to the name of Roman towns, be- caufe they were fortified, has occafioned many to fuppofe the genuine fignification thereof to be town or city. This fortification i3 exa&ly round, and one hundieJ and fixty paces in diameter; all round it H S H I R E. 249 the earth is raifed in the manner of a parapet ; and almoft oppofite to the avenue, there is a kind of tumulus, or artificial mount. At this Moel y gaer Howel Gwynedh, who fiJed with Owen Glindower, againft Henry IV. was be- headed. He was one who, for a long time, an- noyed the Englifh in his neighbourhood ; but being at length taken by his enemies of the town of Flint and beheaded at this place, his eftate was difpofed of to one Saxton. Members of Parliament for Flintfliire. This county fends two members to parliament; one knight of the {hire for the county, and one burgefs for the borough of Flint* DENBIGHSHIRE, THIS county, which derives its name from Den- bigh, the county town, and is in the Britifh language called Sir Dhinbeck, is bounded on the north by thelrifh fea, and part of Flintfliire ; on the fouth by Montgomeryfhire , on the e^ft by Lhefbire and Shrop- fliire ; and on the weft by Caernarvonfhire and Me- rionethfhire. It extends in length from north -weft to fouth-eaft about forty miles^; from north to fouth about twenty miles ; and is about one hundred and eighteen miles in circumference. It is divided into twelve hun- dreds, in which are four market- towns, fifty-feven parifhes, about fix thoufand four hundred houfes, and thirty-eight thoufand inhabitants. It lies in the pro- vince of Canterbury, partly in the diocefe of Bangor, and partly in that of St. Afaph. Denbigh, the county- town, is two hundred and nine miles north-weft from London. This county, in the time of the Romans, was part of the country of the Ordcvices ; and fome Britons, who were forced cut of Scotland, are faid, in their turn, to have driven the Saxons hence, and, by the afliftance of the Welfh, to have poflefled themfelves of all this diftrift, from the river Conway to the Lee. R I VERS. The principal rivers are Llwyd, which rifes at the bottom of an hill fouth-weft of Buthin, whence run- ning north-eaft, and pafling that town, it directs its courfe nearly north-weft by the city of St. Afaph, in Flintftiire, and falls into the Infh fea, a few miles north- weft of that city. The Elwy, which rifes in the fouth- weft part of the county, runs north and north-eaft, and falls into the Llwyd, near St. Afaph. The Dee, which rifes near Bala, in Menonethfhire, runs north-eaft thtough Denbighfhire into Chefhire, as may be feen in the defcription of that county ; and the Conway, which feparates Denbighfhire from Caernarvonfhire. The lefs confiderable (beams, are the Alwen, the Aled, the Llawedok, the Neag, and the Gyrow. Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Denbigh- fhire. Neither of the rivers of this county are navigable, though part of the northern boundary is the fea. Nor 72 is there any harbour, except for boats, on the whole coaft. There is however a very confiderable bay, where fliips bound to Liverpool and Chefter often come to an anchor in foutherly and fouth-eaft winds. There is from five to ten fathom water, and the bottom an oozy fand* A north-weft wind blows right into the bay, where there is no riding in fafety here, if it blows hard. AIR and SOIL. The air of this county is efteemed healthy, but it is rendered (harp and piercing by a vaft chain of mountains, which almoft furrounds the county, and the top of which, for the much greater part of the year, is covered with fnow. The foil is various and almoft in the extremes of good and bad. The weftern part is heathy, barren, and but thinly inhabited, except the fea coaft and the bank of the Conway. The hills upon the eaftern bor- ders of the county, look, at a certain diftance, like the battlements or turrets of caftles : and this part is as barren as the weft, except where it borders on the river Dee. The middle part of the county, however, con- fining of a flat country feventeen miles long from north to fouth, and about five miles broad, is one of the molt delightful fpots in Europe. It is extremely fruitful and well inhabited, furrounded by high hills, except upon the north, where it lies open to the fea; and is called the Vale of Clwyd, fiom its being watered by the river of that name. The inhabitants of this county are in general long lived, and thofe of the vale of Clwyd remarkable for their vivacity and fpirit. The Englifh manners and cuftoms are pretty much adopted, efpecially by the in- habitants of the vale country, who feem to be in general of Saxon and Norman extraction, as appears by thofe names being common in that country. Great part of Flintfhire was very early in the pofieflion of the Englifh ; and Denbigh-land, in the vale of Clwyd, was likewife colonied by fome of the firft princes of the Norman line. The inhabitants of the mountainous country ftill re- tain the ancient Britifh language and cuftoms, unadul- terated with any foreign tongue. So great is the dif- ference between the inhabitants of the mountains and the vales, that they would be taken t<» be natives of 3 S different D E N B I G H S H I R E. different countries and climates. Different not only in their manners nd cuftoms, but even in their very com- plexion and perfons. Remarks on the Husbandry of Denbighfhire. The foil in the weftern part of this country is fome- what barren, but thinly inhabited, and full of heaths, and craggy, bare hills ; the middle, where there is the ipacious vale of Clwyd, is very fruitful ; but the eattern parts are not fo fertile, except where watered by the river Dee. The hufbandmen, however, have been long endeavouring, with good fuccefs, to improve even the weftern parti, by parcing off the earth with a broad in- ftrument, into thin ciods and turfs, which they pile up in heaps, then burn to afhes, and afterwards fcatter them upon the land, and thereby produce fuch quantities of rye, as is almoft incredible. This operation is performed in the following manner: When the turfy furface is taken with, what is ufually called a denfhireing plough, they are piled up in heaps about the fize of grafs-cocks, and placed in quincunx order. When dry, the heaps are fet on fire, and when thoroughly burnt, the afhes are fpread equallv over the whole furface of the field ; the ground ploughed imme- diately, and the grain (own ; for the foonej: the opera- tions are performed after the afhes are fpread, the larger will be the crop. Natural Production's. The rivers afford plenty of fifh, of different kinds. The hills and heaths feed infinite numbers of goats and fheep, and being manured with turf-afhes, they produce plenty of rye, and the vallies abound with black cattle and corn. This county has hkewife a variety of fowls, wild and tame, and contains feveral lead" mines, parti- cularly about Wrexham, which yield plentiful lupplies of ore. MANUFACTURES. The manufactures of this county are chiefly of gloves and flannels ; the former at Denbigh, and the latter at Wrexham. Market Towns. The market towns of this county are Denbigh, Llan- croft, Ruthin, Wrexham. We entered this county by eroding the river Clwyd, at St. Afaph, and firft vifited Denbigh, which from its original fituation on a fteep rock, was formerly called by the Britor.s, Cledfryn yn Rhos, that is the craggy hill in Rofs. It is the county town, and ftands on a branch of the river Clwyd, callejd the Ilfhod, two hundred and nine miles from London. The fituation of the old town being found incon- venient by the inhabitants, they abandoned it in the reign of queen Elizabeth, and a new one, much larger, was built at the foot of the hill. It is handfome, large, and populous, and in the opinion of many people thought the beff town in North Wales. It is governed by a mayor, a recorder, and two bailiffs, annually chofen out of twenty-five burgefles and alfo a town- clcrk, and two ferjearrts at mace. Here is a good manufacture of gloves, and the bufi- nefs of tanning is very confiderable ; befides which it carries on a pretty good trade. The town is chiefly in- habited by glovers and tanners ; but one great difadvan- tage which attends it is, that the ground on which it is built abounding with lime-ftone, renders the water un- healthy, and is looked upon as the reafon why the inha- bitants fe,dom live to a great age. Here are two churches, and formerly here was an"abbey of Black-monks, of the order of St. Benedict, founded and endowed by Adam balifbury, about the time of Henry III. The prefent proprietor is Sir L\nch Salif- bury Cotton, baronet. Some ruins of the walls are frill remaining, befides an entire firucture, which api pears like the body of a country church. This part of the country was given by Edward I. to David ap Griffith, brother to Lleuellin, the laft prince of North Wales ; but he being foon after attainted and beheaded for high treafon, it was given by the fame king to Henry Lacy, earl of Lincoln. This earl forti- fied the town with a wall, not large in circuit, but very ftrong, and on the fouth fide of it erected a caftle, adorned with many high towers ; but his only fon being unfortunately drowned in the well of this caftle, his grief on this cccafion made him defift from the work, and leave it incompleat. After the death of the earl of Lincoln, this caftle, by the marriage of his daughter Alice, came into the poffeflion of the houfeof Lancafter. King Edward II. gave it to Hugh Spencer, and after- wards Roger Mortimer became the poffeffor of it in the reign of king Edward III. which Roger fixed up his own arms on the chief gate. After his execution it came to William Montacute, earl of Salifbury, but was foon after reftored to the Mortimers ; and by thefe at length it came to the houfe of York, and at prefent belongs to the crown. It was delivered up to the parliament army, on the twenty-fix th of October, 1646. It appears to have been a place of prodigious ftrength, not only on account of its fituation, but likewife from the hardnefs of the ftones, and unufual thicknefs of the walls. It is now very much decayed, but the very ruins are vene- rable. Great part of the hill is ft ill ftanding, which the ignorant inhabitants miftake for the ruins of a church. The remains of the hall give the traveller an idea of the grandeur of this place. The profpecl from this caftle is molt enchanting. Beneath, the vale of Clewyd difplays her bofom profule- ly gay to the admiring fpeetator. The banks of the river Clwyd, decorated with ieats ; the town of Rythen, and the city of St. Afaph, with the mountains riling at a diftance, form a molt delightful view. Denbigh has a good weekly market on Wednefdays, for corn, cattle, and provifions, and three annual fairs, viz. May the fourteenth, July the eighteenth, and September the twenty-fifth, for cattle and fmall ware. Sir Hugh Middleton, a great benefactor to the city of London, was native of this town. This gentleman raifed a confiderable fortune by work- ing fome filver mines in Cardiganfhire, by which he is faid to have cleared two thouland pounds a month for feveral years together. In the mean time the city of London, not being fufficiently fupplied with water, three acts of parliament were fuccelfively obtained, by which the citizens were allowed full power to bring a river from any part of Middlefex and Hertfordfhire ; but this project was laid afide as impracticable, till it was undertaken by this great man, who, after having made an exact furvey of all the rivers and fprings in Middlefex and Hertfordfhire, made choice of two, one in the parifh of Amwell near Hertford, and the other near Ware, both about twenty miles from London. Thefe two ftreams being united, he conveyed them at a very great expence towards the city ; but when he had brought the water into the neighbourhood of Enfield, the greateff. part ol his fortune was fpent, upon which he applied to the lord mayor and common council ; but they refuling to affitt in carrying on this noble work, he had recourfe to king James I. who fharing with him in the expence and profits, the defign was happily effected, and the water brought injto the refervoir at Iflington on Michael- mas-day 1613. By this noble work Sir Hugh greatly impaired his fortune; however, though he was a lofer in point of profit, he was a gainer in point of honour; for king James I. conferred upon him the honour of knignthood, and afterwards created him a baronet ; belides which, he had the much greater honour of being remembered by pofteriry as the benefactor of this country. At his death he bequeathed a fhare in this New River Water to the Goldfmiths company, of which he was a member, for the benefit of their poor. Beyond Denbigh lies the vale of Clwyd, which we have D E N B I G have already mentioned ; and the prodigious chain of mountains that almoft furrround it, the highcft of which is called Mcclenlhi, on the top of which is a military fence or rampire, and a very clear fpring. There are alfo feveral other old forts or intrenchments in this county. As firfl-, Pen y Gar vawr on Kader Dhimmael, diftant about a mile from Kerig y Drudion, which is a circular ditch and rampire, of at leaft one hundred paces in dia- meter. It feems to have had once a kind of wall, but the ftones have been long fince carried away by the neighbours. Another is at Kaer-Dhynod, which lies in 'the parifh of Lhan-Vihangel. It lies clofe by the river Ahven, and is rather of an oval form than circu- lar. The dyke or rampire coniifted of a vail quantity of ftones, that are now thrown together, without any or- der. On the river fide it is about three hundred feet perpendicular, but not half fo high in any other part. On the other fide of the river is a fteep hill, about twice as high as Kaer-dhynod, on which lies Kaer- vorwyn, that is, the m.iiden fort. This is a large cir- cular intrenchment, and much more artificial than the former. Kaer-dyhnod, as Mr. Lloyd, fuppofes, was formerly a Britifh camp, becaufe it agrees exactly with the defcription Tacitus gives of the camp of king Ca- ra&acus. There is alio a third fort named Dinas Melin y Wigi which is thought to have been a Britifh town, becaufe it anfwers to the defcription Cjefar gives of fuch a place; for he tells us, that the Britons call that a town, which is in the midft of a wood, furrounded with a vallum and a ditch, to prevent the incurfions of the enemy ; and this place is full of woods, dingles, and the like. The fortification is fifteen or twenty yards high, where loweft ; it is faced for the moft part with a craggy rock, and encompafftd with a deep trench, hav- ing two entries, called the Upper and Lower Gates. . Eaftward of the vale of Clwyd, and without it, lies Yal, a fmall high mountainous track, if compared with the neighbouring parts. No river runs into it from any other part, though it fends forth feveral ftreams. Its fituarion lays it open to the winds from every corner, which renders it a very cold, bleak country. However, thefe mountains are well ftored with oxen, fheep and goats ; and the vallies, in fome places, are tolerably fertile in corn, efpecially to the eaft of the river Alen. But the weftern fide is barren, and interfperfed with heaths and defarts. It contains nothing remarkable, except the ruins of a fmall monaftery, feated very pleafantly in a valley, among woody hills, ten miles fouth-eaft of Ruthin, and is extended in the form of a crofs. In the Britifh language, this place was called Llan Egweft, alfo Pont y Groes, which fignifies Valle crucis, from their prefenting king Edward I. with a piece of the holy crofs, which prcfent procured them feveral immu- nities. This abbey was for Ciftcrtian Monks, and is pleafantly feated in the towniliip of Maes yr Ychen, under a hill, called Bron vawr, in the parifh of Llan- gollen, near the north banks of the river Dee. It was built by Madock, fon of Griffith M.-.elor, lord of Brom- field, or Lower Powes Chirk and Yawl, about the year 1200. It was confirmed to the faid monks by his fon in the year 1250, and was dedicated to God and the blelTcd Virgin. This abbey is in a lorJfhip which be- longed to the late Sir Watkin William Wynne. Llanfannan is feated on the river Alne, eight miles weft of Denbigh, and is only a village ; but it has four annual fairs, viz. May the eighteenth, Auguft the fe- venteenth, October the twenty-fixth, and November the thirtieth, all for cattle. This place is noted for a cave, made in the fide of a ftoney hill or rock, wherein are twenty-four feats, fome bigger and fome lefs j and is greatly frequented by fhepherds and others, who look after the cattie ; it is now known by the name of Arthur's round table. From hence we continued our journey to Llanroft, a fmall place feated on the river Conway, on the very edge of the county, one hundred and ninety-eight miles north -weft of London. It has a free-fchool, and a markei-houfe, built at the expence of Maurice Wynne, Efq; There is here a curious bridge over the 2 H S H I R E. 2*51 Conway, into Camarvonfhire, one hundred and feventy feet long, and fifteen wide. It confifts of three arches ; of which that in the centre is fixty-one feet wide, and the others thirty and a half. Here is a weekly market on Tuefdays, and five an- nual fairs, viz. on April the twenty-fifth, June the twenty-firft, Auguft the ninth, September the feven- teenth, and December the eleventh, for cattle and fmall pedlars wares. We next proceeded to Ruthin, fituated between the two branches of the river Clwyd, one hundred and eighty-four miles from London. It is a large populous town, but has no parifh church, being itfelf part of the parifh of Llhan Rudd, in its neighbourhood. Here are however a good free fchool, and an hoipital, both founded by Dr. Goodman, in the reign of queen Elizabeth. Ruthin, not many years ago, was famous for a ftitely caftle, which, as well as the town, was built by Roger Grey, to whom king Edward V. granted almoft the whole vale, which, for a long fucceffion of years, con- tinued to be the feat of his poft-'rity. The ruins of the caftle fhew it to have been once a place of great ftrength, and capable of containing a confiderable number of people. Here is a weekly market, held on Mondays, the largeft of any in the vale ; and five annual fairs, viz. March the nineteenth, Friday before Wh't-Sunday, Auguft the eighth, September the thirtieth, and No- vember the tenth, for cattle and fmall pedlary. Among the hills, fouth-weft of Ruthin, is a place called Kerig y Drudion, which, according to Camden, fignifies the Druid ftones ; and here are likewife ftill to be feen two ftone monuments, fuppofed to have been erected by the ancient Druids. They are called by the Welfh Kiftieu Maen, or Stone-Chefts ; and one of them is diftinguifhed from the other by the name of Karchar Kynrick Rwth, or Kynrick Rwth's prifon. They ftand north and fouth, at the diftance of a furlong one from the other ; they are in the form of a cheft, and confift each of feven ftones ; of thefe ftones, four which compofe the top, bottom, and two fides, are above fix feet long, and three broad ; a fifth ftone forms the fouth end of the cheft ; at the north end is the entrance, fecured by a fixth ftone, which formed the door, and was upon occafion removed ; this door was clafped or faftened by a feventh ftone, of a vaft weight, which was laid over the top ftone, and when the door was to be faftened was moved towards the north end. Though thefe ftone-chefts have given the name of Druid Stones to the place where they are found, and though one of them is alfo called Kynrick, Rwth's prifon, yet it is not probable that they were intended for prifons by the Druids, who conftructed them. Kynrik Rwth v/as a petty tyrant in this neighbour- hood, of much later times than the Druids ; he thought fit to fhut up fome perfon who had offended him in one of thefe cells, which gave occafion to the calling it his prifon ; but for what uie they were at firft intended, is not conjectured. Leaving Ruthin, we purfued our journey to Wrex- ham, by the Saxons called Wintlefham. It is fituated in a good foil, on the bank of a ftream that falls into the Dee ; and in a fmall territory, called Bromfield, faid to abound in lead, one hundred and fixty-feven miles north-weft of London. The town is large, well built, and well frequented. It is remarkable for a very curious and beautiful church, in which was a noble organ, that was deftroyed in the great rebellion. The tower is lofty, and of moft exquifite workmanfhip, adorned with neat carved work and feveral figures. The church was built about the year 1507, and dedicated to St. Giles. It is faid to be heretofore collegiate ; it is in length one hundred and feventy-eight feet, in breadth fixty-two, and the height of the ftone building of the tower one hundred and thirty-five feet. Old accounts mention, that the town was burnt in the year 1463. Kefides this church, the town has two meeting-houfes,, Wrexham is a great mart for flannel, which is here boughs D E N B I G H S H I R E. bought up in vaft quantities. This manufacture is the chief employment of the poor in the neighbourhoood. Here «re two weekly markets, but that on Mondays is fmall, though that on Thurfdays is very confiderable for corn, cattle, and provifions; and four fairs, namely, on the twenty-third of March, Holy Thurfday, the fixth of June, and the nineteenth of September, for cattle, horfes, hardware, hops, Manchefter goods, &c. Not far from this town, foaie parts of OfTa's dyke are frill vifible. This was a trench call up by OfFa, the great king of Mercia, as a boundary between his fubjedts and the Britons. To the fouthward of Bromfield lies a tract called Chirk j this is a mountainous country, in which are two caftles. One of them has the name of Chirk, but was anciently called Caftall Crogen. It lies near the borders of Shropfhire, but we do not find when it was firft founded. However, Roger Mortimer, the third fon of Roger, earl of Wigmore, rebuilt it, and it is now the feat of the Middletons. It is ftill very entire, though it is built after the ancient manner, and feems much more proper for a place of defence, than for a dwelling- houfe.' It has three round towers, one at each end, and one in the middle ; and the ftrudture between each is much about the fame breadth as the diameter of the towers ; though they are all contiguous. John Morti- mer, lord of Chirk, and grand fon of the aforefaid Roger, fold the lordfhip of Chirk to Richard Fitz-Alan, earl of Arundel. The village of Chirk, which is a little to the eaft- ward of this caille, and nine miles fouth of Wrexham, has three fairs, on the fecond Thurfday in February, the fecond Tuefday in June, and on November the twelfth, for fheep, horned cattle, and horfes. Dinas Bran Cattle is alfo in the territory of Chirk, feated near the northern bank of the river Dee, on the high top of a fharp hill. Its name feems borrowed from a brook, fo called in its neighbourhood. This was in the reign of king Henry III. the feat of Griffith ap Madoc (a defcendant from the founder, and himfelf a benefactor to the abbey of Llan Egweft, or Vale Crucis) who was ftiled Lord of Dinas Bran, from his pofleffing and dwelling in this caftle. He took part with king Henry III, and king Edward I. againft the prince of j North Wales, for fear of whom he was forced to (hut himfelf up in his caftle. This Griffith, by Emma, daughter of James lord Audley, had ifTue Madoc, Llewellyn, Griffith, and Owen. The lordfhip of Brom- field and Yale, and the caftle of Dinas Bran, came to Madoc, and that of Chirk to Llewellyn ; but the ward- fhip of thefe minors was given by the king to John earl of Warren, and Roger Mortimer, who, in the tenth of Edward I. obtained the lands for themfelyes by the king's charter. This caftle was lately, if it is not ftill, in the poffeffion of Richard Middleton, Efq. There are laro;e ruins of this caftle ftill remaining, which may be feen at a great diftance, where one part of them h:.s the ap- pearance of a country church. Holt-caftle is feated not far from Wrexham, on the weftern bank of the Dee, in the very edge of the county, where that river divides it from Chefhire. The Britons called it Caftell Llew, or Lyons-caftle. It is fuppofed to have been anciently a Roman camp. John, earl of Warren, in the reign of king Edward I. began to build here a caftle, which was finifhed by his fon William. The faid earl John, being guardian to Madoc ap Griffith, a Britifh prince, treacheroufly feized this and fome adjacent pofleffions to the prejudice of his pupil. From the earls of Warren it came to the Fitz Alans, earls of Arundel ; and from them to William Beau- champ, baron of Abergavenny ; and afterwards to William Stanley, who being beheaded, this, with his other eftates, were forfeited to the crown. This caftle furrendered to the parliament forces on the nineteenth of January, 1646. Only a few fragments of the walls are now remaining. Llandogla is a village ten miles weft of Wrexham, in the road which leads to Chefter, and has five fairs, namely, on March the eleventh, April the twenty-fifth, June the twenty-third, Auguft the fourth, and O&ober the twenty-fixth, for cattle. Members of Parliament. Denbighfhire fends two members to parliament ; one knight of the (hire for the county, and one burgels for the borough of Denbigh. i I s i MERIONYTH- 3 ( 253 ) M ERIONETHSHl R.fi* MERIONETHSHIRE, of Merionydfhire, is thus called by a variation from its Welch name Sir Verionydh, and is bounded by Caernarvonshire and Denbighfhire ©n the north ; by another part of Den- bighfhire, and by Montgomeryftiire on the eaft ; by St. George's channel on the weft, and by a fmall part of Cardiganfhire and Montgomeryfliire on the fouth. It extends thirty-five miles in length from north to fouth, twenty-five in breadth from eaft to weft, and is one hundred and eighteen miles in circumference; in which are fix hundreds, four market towns, thirty-feven parifhes, about two thoufand five hundred and ninety houfes, and feventeen thoufand inhabitants. It lies in the province of Canterbury and diocefe of Bangor, and Dolgelpe, a market town, nearly in the middle of it ; is one hundred and eighty-feven miles north-weft of London. This county, in time of the Romans, was part of the country inhabited by the Ordovices, a brave and power- ful nation. R I VERS. The principal rivers of this county are the Dyffi, the Avon, the Drwrydh, and the Dee. The Dyffi, or Dovey, rifes among fome very high mountains, that form a chain on the eaftern borders of the county, and running fouthward into Montgomery- fhire, flows fouth-weft ; and leaving that county at Machynleth, a market town, feparates the counties of Merioneth and Cardigan, and foon after falls into Cardigan bay. The Avon has its fource on the eaft fide of a large foreft, called Penrofe wood, and running fouth-weft, pafTes by Dolgelhe, and falls into Barmouth bay, fome miles to the weft of that town. The Drwrydh iflues from a lake in the northern ex- tremity of the county, near the fource of the river Con- way in Caernarvonfiiire, and running fouth-weft, falls into an arm of the Irifh fea, called Traeth Bychan. The Dee near its fource runs through a confiderable lake on the fouth fide of Bula, called Pimble Maer, or Lhyn Tigid, without mixing with it ; the fifh at leaft of both waters we are told do not mingle; for though the Dee abounds with falmon, none are caught in the lake, out of the ftream of the river; nor does the Dee carry off" the Gwiniards, a fifh peculiar to the lake. The word gwiniard fignifies much the fame as a whiting, but does not in the leaft refemble that fifh, the fhape being' much like a falmon, and the ufual length about twelve or thirteen inches ; the back is of a dufky colour, and the belly white. The fcales are of a middle fize, and the upper jaw is fomewhat more prominent than the lower, with a mouth much like that of a herring. The tafte is much like that of a trout. It is like, and proba- bly the fame, as that fifh called ferra, in the lake of Geneva. Hence fome infer, that there is a great re- femblance between the Alpine lakes and thofe of the Welch mountains ; becaufe they afford the fame forts of fifh, and the high rocks Alpine plants. The courfe of the Dee has been defcribed among the rivers of Chefhire. The fmaller rivers of this county are the Keflilawn, the Angel, the Cayne, the Atro, the Skethye, and the Defunni. The above lake called Pimble, or Plenlyn Mear, is of confiderable extent ; and, according to Camden, has been accurately defcribed by an antiquarian and poet, in a few Latin verfes, which have been thus tranflated into Englifti : 72 Where eaftern ftorms difturb the peaceful fkiesj In Merioneth the fam'd Plenlyn lies. Here a vaft lake, which deepeft vales funound, His watry globe roles on the yielding ground. Encreafed with conftant fprings that gently run From the rough hills with pleafing murmurs down, This wond'rous property the waters boaft, The greateft rains are in its channels loft ; Nor raife the flood ; but when loud tempefts roar, ~i The rifing waves with fudden rage boil o'er, S And conquering billows fcorn the unequal fhore. J Remarks on the Inland Navigation of Merioneth- frure. As there are no rivers navigable either in this county or that of Caernarvonfiiire, except their mouths or en- trances into the fea, we fhall defer our account of them till we have finiflied thefe two counties, and then give the whole together. Air, Soil, and Natural Productions. This being a rocky, mountainous country, the air is extremely cold and bleak ; it is alfo efteemed unhealthy, on account of the many noxious vapours that rife from the Irifh fea ; but thefe can have no great effec~t, on account of the fharp winds, which almoft continually blow. Merionethfhire is generally confidered as the moft mountainous and barren county in all Wales; but if a variety of the moil beautiful profpecls can render a country agreeable, few can in this refpect be compared to it ; for it not only affords mountains of an extraordi- nary height, inacceflible rocks, a variety of lower hills, woods, and plains, and fome fruitful vallies, but a prof- pe£t of the fea, and of many lakes, rivers, and cata- racts. The higheft mountains are Kader Idris, Aren Voudhwy, Aren Benlhyn, Arennig, Moelwyn, Man- nod, Sic. Kader Idris is probably one of the higheft mountains in Britain ; and, as a proof of it, affords a variety of Alpine plants. It has been afferted, that the tops of fome of thefe mountains are fo near, that men, ftanding upon two of them, may converfe together, and yet be fcarce able to meet in a whole day ; but this is probably a fiction. This county produces but little corn, and the inha- bitants applying themfelves almoft wholly to grazing of cattle, live chiefly on butter, cheefe, and milk; for the vallies afford excellent pafture, and fuch an incredi- ble number of fheep feed on the mountains, that Me- rionethfhire is faid to have more of them than all the reft of Wales. This county is likewife Well provided with deer, goats, fowl, and fifh. Remarks on the Husbandry of Merionethfhire\ In this county they have very little good land, and they make fo bad an ufe of that, which nature has given them with fo fparing a hand, that fome might be ready to conclude that they prefer their barren rocks to the moft fertile foil. In fome places between the mountains, there are to be feen a few acres of good land, where the earth has been wafhed away from the hills* The water generally ftagnates in thefe places, and they never take the trouble of draining them, but cut them in turbaries for fewel. Thus in a few years, they to- tally ruin their fineft meadow land. The greateft part of the country confifts of barren mountains, incapable 3 T ©f 254 ME R I O N E T II S H I RE. of improvement. They ferve, however, to fubfift a great abundance of Sheep. With the wool they make confiderable quantities of flannel, which they export. This is the Slaple manufacture and fupport of the county. M A N U FtA CT URE. The only manufacture in this county is Welfh cotton. Market Towns. The market towns in tl? is- county are Bala, Dolgalhe, Harlech, and Dinafmonday. . We eroded the fiver Dec, and entered this county near a village called Earwen, and took the road through a very mountainous county to Bala. This town obtained its name frprrm-ts fituation at the north end of Pimble meer ; the word fignifying a place where a river ifTues from a lake. It is a corporation town, one hundred and eighty-four miles from London, go- verned' t>y bailiffs,, and enjoys many privileges. iHere is a' weekly market on Saturdays, and two an- nual fairs, viz: May the fourteenth, and July the tenth, for horned cattle, Sheep and^horfes. At Bala ai-e three mounds, "one of which is called Tornmen y Bala, another'BrynlhySk, and the third Mwnwgly f hyn, which are generally mistaken for Se- pulchral monuments; but the real intention of them appears to have been for watch Stations, when this country was the feat of war, at the beginning of the Roma'rv conquefls. Not far from hence in the parifh of Lhan aw Lhyn, are the ruins of an ancient caftje^ called Caftelh Corndo- chen.' It is Seated on the top of a very Steep rock, at the bottom of which is a plcafant valley. There are Still the remains of a wall, within which are three turrets, a Square, a round, arid an oval one, which is the largeft. The mortar of this building was mixed with cockle-fhells. From Bala we continued our journey fouthward, and next arrived at Dinafmondy, a Small town, one hundred Seventy-fix miles from London. It is an in- confiderable town, of no note but for a weekly market on Fridays, and four annual fairs, viz. July the fecond, September the tenth, October the firft, and November the thirteenth, for fheep, black cattle and horfes. Leaving Dinafmondy, we palTed on to Dolgelhe, fo called from its original fituation, which was in a woody vale. It {lands on the fouth bank of the Avon, at the foot of mount Idris, one hundred and eighty Seven miles from London.. Here is a confiderable manufacture of Welfh- cottons, and the town is well provided with inns for the accommodation of tra- vellers. This town is fuppofed to have been a Roman ftation, from the coins dug up in its neighbourhood, two of which were of Silver, and of the emperors Trojan and Hadrian. The hrft bore the following inscrip- tion. Imp. Traianv Avg. Ger. Dac. P. M. TR. P. Cos. v. P. P. S. P. Q. R. Optimo Prine. The fecond was thus inforibed : Imp.' Caesar Traian Hadrianvs. Ave. P. M. TR. P. Cos. III. Dolgelhe has a weekly market on Tuefdays, and fix annua! fairs, viz. May the eleventh, July the fourth, September the twentieth, October the ninth, November the twenty -fecond, and December the Six- teenth, for fheep, blaejc cattle and horfes. C'-mner, or Kemmer, a village, about two miles north of Dolgelhe, had an abbey of CiStertian monks, founded by Meredith and Griffith, fons of Conan ap Owen Gwinnedd, about the year 1200, and dedicated to St. Mary. Llewelin ap. Jorwerth, prince of North Wales, afterwards confirmed their donations by a very full and gracious charter, dated 1209, to ESan, the then abbot of Kemmer, at which time he likewife conferred more lands on the faid monaftcry. In the wars of king Henry III. with the Welch, the Englifh would have burnt this ahby in 1232, but the abbot paid three hundred marks to fave the houfe from deftruclion. It is now in the poffeflion of Robert Vaughan, Efq; but the greateft part of it is demolished, there being onlv fome of the walls {landing, and in them are windows of the Gothic tafte. Its annual revenues were valued a* thefi*pprcffion a c fifty-one pounds, thirteen Shillings and four-pence. Continuing our journey from hence about fourteen miles, we came next to Harleck, fo called from its fituation, the name fignifying a pleafant rock. It Sbnds near the fear fhore, and is two hundred and ten miles difiant from London. It has a good harbour tor Ships, though few or no Ships belong to the town., which is governed' by a meyor, and has arvold decayed cafile, Situated clofe by the Infh fea, on a Steep rock. It was originally a Strong, fort of the ancient Britons, and by them calted Twr Bronwen, from a lady of than name, who lived abont the year 260. It was rebuile about the year £77.,, by Collwyn ap Tangus, and then changed its name to Caer CoUwyn, ■ This caftle held out Strenuoufly againft king Edward IV. but at length it was with much difficulty taken by Wil- liam Keibert, earl of Pembroke. It al So held out one of the laft for king Charles L but Surrendered on fair conditions to the parliament forces on the Sixteenth of March, 1646; and is now in the poffeffion of the crown, and has a garrifon for the Security of the craaft. The governor of this caftle is, by patent, appointed mayor of the town, but the houSes are meai.i, and it is but poorly inhabited. Harlech is fuppofed to have been a Roman town, from Several. Roman coins that have, at different times," been dlfg up in and near it. In a garden near the cafile was Sound, in 1692, an ancient: golden torques, weighing about eight ounces, and corr- fifting of a wieathed bar of gold, or three or four rods twifted together, about four feet long, and hooked a; both ends ; but whether it was BritiSh or Roman can- not be cafily determined. This Seems, by its length, to have been defigned for uSe as well as ornament, and was perhaps for holding a quiver of arrows. Harleck has a weekly market on Saturdays, and four annual fairs, viz. Thurfday after Trinity, June the thirtieth, Auguft the twenty-firft, and December the eleventh, for cattle. Near this town are many remains of Roman an- tiquity. At Fefrineog, a village north of Harlech, in the north-well extremity of this county, is a Stone cauSe- way, called Sam Helen, or Hellcn's Way, and Sup- pofed to have been made by Hellena, the mother of ConStantine the Great; who it is believed occafioned the making of Several other high ways in Wales. On a mountain called Mikneint near Rhyd, or Halen, within a quarter of a mile on this road, there are remarkable Stone monuments, called the graves of the men of Ardwy, of which there are at leaft thirty in number, and each grave is faid to be about two vards long, and to be diftinguiShed by Sour pillars, one at each corner. They are Somewhat of a fquare form, about two or three feet high, and nine inches broad* According to tradition, thefe are the Sepulchral monu- ments of perfons of note Slain here, between the men of Dyffryn Aidudwy, and fome people of Denbighfhire ; however, this is uncertain, and fome take them to be Roman. Kaer-Gay, that is, Caius's-caftle, is not far from this place; it was built by one Caius, a Roman, of whom the people of the neighbourhood relate incre- dible things. Near the fame cauSeway are Several other Sepulchral monuments ; and in 1687, Mr. Camden copied the following inscription from a Stone, called Bedh Pdrvrsj or the grave of Porus, which that great antiquary Sup- poSes to relate to Some Roman interred there in the fecond or third century; the words are porivs Hie TVMVEO JACIT HOMO RIANVS FVIT. About the year 1684 was discovered, in a moorifh ground, where turf is dug up for fuel, a gilt coffin, which was of wood, and fo well prefcrved, that the gilding remained very frefh', and is faid to have con- 4 tamed MkkitOKEtHsklRE. Gained a fkeleton of an extraordinary fize. This is, perhaps, the only inftance upon record, of an inter- ment in a moor of peat or turf, and yet the bituminous earth, of which fuch moors confift, is known by expe- dience, to preferve waod better than any other; for trees are frequently found in it very found, though they mult have been buried in times before the reach of hiftory. In the year 1688, were found in a rock known by the name of Katreg Dhiwin, about fifty weapons of caft brafs that feemed to be fhort fwords or daggers. They were of different forms and fizes; fome of them being two feet long, others not more than twelve inches, fome of them flat, and others quadrangular. It is faid that feveral of them were gilt ; but the handles-, which are fuppofed to have been of wood, were all wafted, though in a few of them^ the two brafs nails by which they were faftened ftill remained, being headed or rivetted on each fide. About two miles from Harlec is a remarkable monu- ment, called Kaclon Arthur, which is a large oval ftone table, about ten feet long and- feven broad, two feet thick at one end, but not more than an inch at the other. It is placed on three ftone pillars, each about half a yard broad : two of them fupport the thick end, and are between feven and eight feet high ; but the height of the thiid, at the other end, is not above three feet. The country about Harlec was, in the year 1694, ftrangely annoyed during above eight months, by a furprizing fiery exhalation, which was feen only in the night, and confifted of a livid vapour that arofe from the feaj or feemed to come from Caernarvonfliire, acrpfs a 255 bay about ten miles broad. From this hay it fpread about a mile over the land, and fet fire to all the barns, ftacks of corn and hay in its *.vay : it likewife infected the air, and blafted the grafs and herbage, caufing a great mortality among the horned cattle, ftieep and horfes. It conftamiy proceeded to and from the fame place, in ftormy as well as in calm nights, but more frequently during the winter, than in the following furnmer. It never fired any thing but in the night, and the flames, which were weak, and of a blue colour, did no injury to the inhabitant, who irequently rufhed into the middle of them' to fave their hay or corn. This vapour was at length extinguished, by the blow- ing of hornr, ringing of bells, firing of guns, or putting the air into motion by various other ways, whenever it was feen to approach the fhore. Among the feveral conjectures that have been made concerning the caufe of this furprifing phenomenon; fome have thought it proceeded from locufts, many of which are faid to have been drowned in the bay, and to have died afhore, about two months before ; but to this hypothefis it is objected that no fuch effect: was ever known, as the confequerjee of a fwarm of locufts perifh- ing either at fea, or on ihpre, in places where they have been much more numerous. Something like this;, however, both in appearance and effect, happened fome where upon the coaft of France in the year 1734. Member of Parliament for this County. Merionefhfhire fends but one member to parliament^ who is knight of the (hire for the county. kJtf but i i CAERNARVON"- ( 2$6 ) CAERNARVONSH IRE, TH E name of this county is derived from Caer- narvon, the county town, which fignifies the fortrefs of Arvon, for fo' the county was once called. Its name in Welfh is Sir Gaernarvon, and before Wales was divided into counties it was called Snowdon foreft. It is bounded on the north, fouth, and weft fides by the Irifh fea ; on the north-weft it is feparated from the ifland of Anglefea by the ftraits of Menew, and bounded on the eaft by the counties of Denbigh and Merioneth. It is in the form of a wedge, and extends in length from north to fouth, about forty miles ; from eaft to weft about twenty, and is near an hundred in circumference. It is divided into feven hundreds, and fixty-eight parifhes ; in which are included one city, one borough, five market towns, and three caftles ; about two thou- fand houfes, and between fixteen and feventeen thou- fand inhabitants. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of Bangor. Caernarvon, the county town, nearly in the center of it, is two hundred and fifty- eight miles north-weft of London. Caernarvonfhire was in the time of the Romans part of the country of the Ordovices. Britain, after the Romans had deferted it, being overrun by the Danes and Saxons, the Britons retreated to this part of the ifland, which they defended againft the Englifh till the time of Edward the Firft, when Llewellin ap Griffith was reduced to the neceffity of holding this country and Anglefea as tenant in fee to the crown, paying one hundred marks yearly ; but being foon afterwards, anno 1228, inftigated by his brother David to take up arms, he furprized lord Clifford, the king's general on the frontiers, and killing feveral of his men, took him prifoner; then penetrating ftill farther into the Englifh territories, he defeated the earl of Surrey, who was fent to ftop his progrefs, and committed great ravages. Ring Edward, however, refolved to march againft him in perfon, which he accordingly did, and Llewellin retired to the mountain of Snowdon, to a poft that could not be attacked. Edward inverted him here, blocking up all the avenues by which he could efcape, and laying a bridge of boats over the Menai, fent fome troops over into Anglefea. When this was done he left the management of the blockade, which was likely to hold long, to Roger Mortimer, waiting the iffue at the caftle of Rhudhlan, which he had built during the late war. Llewellin might doubtlefs have tired out the patience of his enemy, had he not, by an extraordinary accident, been induced to deprive himfelf of that advan- tage. Some of the Englifh, under William lord Lati- mer and Thomas de Tony, who were in Anglefea, muft needs pafs the bridge above mentioned to view the country, when being fuddenly. attacked by the Welch, they were entirely defeated; there being flain and drowned no lefs than fifteen knights, thirty two efquires, and about 1000 common foldiers. This fuccefs induced Llewellyn to march down from Snowdon to engage the Englifh, but he was foon convinced of his rafhnefs; for after feeing his army entirely routed at Llandweyr in Buelt, on the eleventh of December, 1182, he was himfelf flain on the fpot by Stephen de Frandton; and his head, crowned with ivy, was by the king's order expofed to view on the walls Or the tower of London. David was foon after taken and executed as a traitor, his head being fixed near that of the prince his brother, and his four quarters fent to York, Briftol, Northampton, and Winchefter ; thus by Edward's cruelty, an end was put to the dominion of the Britons in Wales. The fouthern part of this county forms a peninfula, thirteen miles in length ; and in the wideft parr about ten miles broad. In the Welch language this is called Lhyn ; and in different copies of Ptolomy, it is called Caganum, Janganum, and Langanum; but from the prefent name, Langanum feems to be the mod proper reading. R I R S. The principal rivers of Caernarvonfhire are the Con- way, and the Seiont. The Conway has its fource from a lake called Llyn Conway, fituated where the counties of Caernarvon, Denbigh, and Merioneth meet; and running north, ferves as a boundary between the two firft mentioned counties, falling into the Irifh fea, at Aberconway. This river is but about twenty-four meafured miles in length from its fource to the fea, yet is a very confiderable ftream ; for it receives in its courfe fo many fmall rivers and brooks, that it is navigable for fhipping, within a few miles of the lake from whence it fprings. Its name is fuppofed to fignify in Welfh, the chief of Rivers; the Seiont rifes from a lake, called Llynpri's, in Snowdon Hills, and taking its courfe weftward falls into the ftraits of Meneu, at Caernarvon. Befides feveral namelefs rivers, there are between fifty and fixty lakes; which have generally the fame names as the rivers that proceed from them, or are named from the colour of the water. There is one under the higheft peak of Snowdon, called Tynon Las, which fignifies the Green-Fountain ; but it is not proper to this hill, for Mr. Ray has obferved the fame thing of fome of the lakes among the Alps. Others receive their names from fome village or parifh church adjoining, or from a remarkable mountain or rock under which they are feated. Some have affirmed, that there are lakes on the higheft tops of thefe mountains, one of which was remarkable for a wandering ifland, and that the fifh had only one eye each ; but thefe are miftakes, for there are no lakes on the higheft part of any of them. The lake with the wandering ifland, is only a fmall pond, with a little green patch near the brink of it, which was the occafion of this fable ; but there is not the leaft founda- tion for affirming the fifh have but one eye. Mod of the lakes are well flocked with fifh, which are generally trouts and eels, except the torgock found in fome; but befides this, there is another Alpine fifh, known by the name of the gilt-char, at leaft it is thought to be fo by the beft naturalifts. There are alfo fome of thefe bred in Wynander river, in the county of Weftmoreland. This fifh is broader in proportion than a trout, and the belly is more prominent ; but in length never exceeds twelve inches. Some however fay, that the torgock and gilt char, are the fame fifh, which in Wynander Meer already mentioned, is called the red char, it hav- ing its name from its red belly ; and the Welch word, torgoch, is of the fame import, for it fignifies a red belly. This fifh is to be found in Lhyn Peris in this county, and at four ether places in Wales. The fea- fon for catching it, begins about the twenty-fecond of November, and continues for a month, but they are al- ways taken with nets. Air, Soil, and Natural Productions. The air of Caernarvonfhire is rendered cold and pier- cing, not only by the great number of lakes, but by the very high mountains, which, towards the middle of the county, rife one above another, fo as to have acquired the name of the Britifh Alps. Thefe mountains are not only the higheft in the ifland, but are alfo in fome places inacceffible on account of their immenfe fteepnefs. The C A E R N A R V O N S H I R E. 257 The extremities of the county, however, particularly thofe bordering on the fea, are as fruitful and populous, as any rn North Wales. They yield great plenty of fine barley, and feed vafl herds of cattle and fheep. There are, between the hills, many pleafant and fruit- ful vallies, finely contrafted by the dreary waftes, with which they are (unrounded ; "and numerous flocks of goats and fheep feed upon' the mountains. This county abounds in wood, plenty of fifh are produced in the lakes and rivers, and the coaft is well fupplied with fea fifh of all forts. The river Conway produces not only fifh in great plenty, but pearls as large, and often of as good colour, as any in Britain or Ireland ; they are found in large black mufcles, which, according to Dr. Lifter, are the J thickeft and heavieit of all -ftthers. They are peculiar to fvift ftrong rivers, and are common in Wales, as well ss in the north of England, Scotland, and fome parts of Ireland. Thofe that fifh for thefe (hells can guefs pre:ty well by the outfide of the mucles whether they contain any pearls or not. Remarks on the Husbandry of Caernarvonshire. A confiderable part of Caernarvonfhire and the ifland of Anglefea, is naturally a very good foil, but very Kiuch unimproved. What they principally want, are good fences and fhelter for their cattle. The only in- clofures that they have, are fmall banks of earth or turf-mounds thrown up. Thefe continue but a very little time, as the cattle deftroy them in the winter, and the farmer is at a confiderable expence in repairing them every fpring. In fuch places as are expofed to the fea winds, the trees will not grow to any height ; and all kinds of quickfets are long in their growth. So that the gentlemen and farmers feldom judge it worth the trouble and expence to plant. But fatisfied I am that in a few years it would anfwer ; and nothing would con- tribute rnore to the improvement of the country, than if fuch a practice was generally adopted. There are extenfive fens undrained, and the greateft part of the country confifts of nothing but furze. The bed land lets in general from three to five (hillings an acre ; the price of labor about fix-pence a day. There is great plenty of manure eafily to be had j and, notwith- (tanding thefe advantages, the country is unimproved. The farmers and laborers are mod of them miferably poor ; they hold the lands generally from year to year, rack rent. If one more induftrious than the reft, fhould make any improvement, the landlord either advances his rent, or turns him out. So it is the intereft of the far- mer to let them lie wafte, as he has no certainty of a return when he is liable to be turned out at the land- lord's pleafure. Thus they only take care to get juft fufficient by their induftry to fupply prefent want, and let the morrow provide for itfelf. Nothing would contribute more to the cultivation of the country, than the granting of leafes for life to the farmers, even at advanced rents. Then they would have a certain profpecT: of profit for their labor and ex- pence ; which would ultimately turn out to the benefit of the landlord, the tenant, and the public. Having taken notice above of the number of ftupen- dous mountains which ftand in the inner parts of this county ; it will not be improper to give fome account of them in this place, before we proceed to a defcription of the feveral market towns. They extend from north to fouth a confiderable way ; and are fo furrounded with rocks and craggy places ; contain fuch a number of valleys, incumbered with woods and lakes ; that they ferved as a fafe retreat to the Britons in the time of war • being not only impaf- fable to an army, but even to men lightly armed. The Welfh name for thefe mountains, is Kreigieu Eryrew, and the lower parts of them are fo fertile in grafs that it is a common faying among the Welfh, that the mountains of Eryrew, would, in cafe of neceffity, afford pafture enough for all the cattle in Wales. Snowdon-hill is by far the higheft among them, but having a top confiderably broader, the difference in 73 height is not very vifible at a diftance. Thefe hills are very beautifully defcribed by Mr. Pope, in the follow- ing lines : So pleafed at firft the toiv'n'ng Alps we try, Mount o'er the vales and feem to tread the fky; Th' eternal fnows appear already paft, And the firft clouds and mountains feem the laft. But thofe attain'd, we trembled to furvey, The growing labors of the lengthened way ; Th' increafing profpecl tires our wand'ring eyes, Hills peep o'er hills, and Alps o'er Alps arife. We found a great change in the temperature of the atmofphere as we afcended the mountain. When we had gone half way up, we found the wind rather high, attended with fcudding clouds. But when we arrived at the fummit, the air was calm and ferene, and fcemed much more fubtle and rarified, lefs impregnated with vapors, and more agreeable for refpiration. Kid above the clouds, Though winds and tempefts beat their aged feet ; Their peaceful heads, nor rtorms, nor tempefts know, But fcorn the threat'ning rack that rolls below. DrydeN: The moft remarkable mountain next to Snowdon, is Penman-mawr, the moft northerly of this chain, which on the fide next the fea, rifes almoft perpendicular to fo great a height, that few fpedtators would be able to look down the dreadful fteep without terror. On that fide a read about feven feet wide is cut out of the rock, wind- ing up the fteep afcent hill it rifes about two hundred and forty feet above the level of the fea ; and is nearly the fame diftance from the top of the rock, which at a great height hangs over the head of the pafienger. On the fide of this road next the precipice, the traveller was, till lately, only defended by a flight wall, in few places above a yard high, and in others by only a bank, that fcarce rofe a foot above the road ; while the fea, of which he has an unbounded profpecf, is feen dafhing its waves below. But a few years ago, a wall was built, breaft high, to the building of which, the city of Dublin greatly contributed. However, this, dangerous as it muft appear, is the high road to Bangor and Holy- head, over which the lord lieutenant of Ireland paffes in his way to that port. To the north eaft of this fright* ful road, and of a leffer promontory, a plain extends as far as the river Conway, which is the eaftern limit of the county. On the top of Penman-mawr, (rands a lofty and im- pregnable hill, called Braich y Dhinas, where we find the ruinous walls of an exceeding ftrong fortification, and within them is the foundation of at leaft one hun- dred towers, all round, of an equal fize, and about fix yards in diameter, within the walls, which were in moft places two yards thick, and in fome about three. This caftle, when (landing, feems to have been impregnable, there being no way to affault it, the hill being fo very high, fteep, and rocky, and the walls of fuch ftrength. The way to it afcends with many turnings, infomuch that one hundred men might defend themfelves againft a whole army ; yet there feems to have been within the walls, lodgings for twenty thoufand men. At the top of the rock, within the innermoft wall, is a well, which never fails in the drieft fummers. About a mile from this fortification upon a plairi mountain, is a circular intrenchment, about twenty-fix yards in diameter ; and on the outfide are certain rude ftone pillars, of which about twelve are now (landing ; fome of them are two yards, and others five feet high ; and thefe again are furrounded with a ftone wall, About three furlongs from this monument, there are feveral vaft heaps of fmall (tones, fuppofed to have been collected in memory of a battle fought here between the Romans and the Britons ; but others imagine they were defigned to prevent the wild boars, then very common, from rooting up the dead bodies. On the fummit of another very high mountain, on the fea fide, named Glyder, is a prodigious heap of (tones, of an irregular fhape, many of which are as large as thofe of Stonehenge, in Wiltfhire. They lie in the utmoit confufion^ fome of them reclining, and others lying 3 U a-crols 258 CAERNARVONSHIRE. a-crofs one another. A phenomenon which no perfon has been able to account for. On the weft fide of the fame mountain-, among many other precipices, is one \ery {tecp and naked, adorned with a prodigious number of equidiftant pillars; the in- terlaces between which are luppofed to have been oc- Cafioned by the continual fall of water down the cliff, v. hich is expofed to a wefterly fea wind. " But why, fays the author of England illuftrated, the water ftiould have dropped at thefe regular diftances, before the hol- lows were formed, we are not told ; poffibly, the whole rock may confift of vaft bodies of ftone, with fabulous or earthy matter between them ; and if fo, the rain may have wafted away the fand or earth from between the ftony and folid parts of the mafs on the top and the fides, and fo formed the appearance of ruins above, and of pillars below, which may be confidered as fkeletons of thefe parts of the mountain." To form any idea of thefe mountains, it is neceffary to have feen fomething of the fame nature, the Alps for example, becaufe the common hills are fimple heights or ftories, but thefe are heaped one upon another, infomuch that having climbed up one rock we come to a valley, and commonly a lake. Then paffing by that we afcend another, and fometimes a third and fourth before we arrive at the higheft peaks. Thefe mountains, as well as Kader Idris, and fome others in Merionethihire, differ from thofe near Breck- nock and elfewhere in South Wales, in being much more naked and inacceflible, and In having their lower fkirts- and valleys always covered, or fcattered over with the fragments of rocks of all fizes, mod: of which feem to have fallen from the impending cliffs. Many months in the year, they are covered with fnow ; but generally fpeaking, no fnow lies on them from the end of April to the middle of September, a few heaps only excepted, which do not melt till the latter end of June. It often fnows indeed on the tops of thefe mountains in May and June ; but then the fnow or fleet, melts as foon as it falls. And when :t fnows on the high mountains it only rains in the valleys. It is impoflible to give a juft defcription of the in- finitely extenfive and variegated profpecls we enjoyed from the fummitof thefe mountains; feas, rivers, plains, woods and iflands, lay before us in the greateft diverfity. We faw diftinclly the north of England, the greateft part of Wales, Chefhire, Shropfhire, Ireland, the Me of Man, and Scotland. So unbounded is this view, that it is thought to be the moft extenfive circular profpeel that can be feen in any part of the terraqueous globe. It is remarkable that the inhabitants of thefe mountains call any low country Hendrew, which fignifies the an- cient habitation. It is a common tradition among them, as well as thofe who inhabit the like places in Breck- nock and Radnorshire, that the Irifh were the ancient proprietors of this country ; and this is the more remark- able, as- thefe people have no communication with each oiher, there being near an hundred miles diftance be- tween them. City end Market Towns. The city is Bangor, though at prefent indeed it fcarcely merits to be called a city ; and the market towns are, Aberconway, Caernarvon, Puliheli, Newin, and Crickieth. From Harlech we croffed an arm of the fea to Cric- Jcieth. It is a borough town, two hundred and fifty- fix miles from London, governed by a mayor and two bailiffs, and joins with others in this county in electing a member to ferve in parliament. There are the ruins of a caftle on the top of a hill, and a gateway remaining; but the place fhews it never could have been of any great extent. This caftle is fuppofed to have been built, to- gether with the town, by prince Llewellyn ap Jorwerth, about the year 1200. In the year 1237, lt was ' n pofleflion of.Prince David np Llewellyn ap Jorwerth, who in violation of his oath, took his brother Griffith (then under the protection of the bifhop of Bangor) and imprifoned him in this caftle. This town has a weekly market on Wednefdays, an3 four annual fairs, viz. on May the twenty-third, July 1 the firft, and Oclober the eighteenth, all for cattle. From Crickieth we proceeded to Pvvhlhely, or Puliheli, that is, a fait pool, fituated on a bay of" the fame name, on the eaft fide of the peninfula, between two rivers, two hundred and fifty miles from London. It is one of the principal towns in this county, has fome trade by fea, is tolerably well built, and governed bv a bailiff. Here is a good harbour, a weekly markct'on Wednefdays, and four annual fairs, viz. on May the thirteenth, Auguft the nineteenth, September the twenty- fourth, and November the eleventh, for cattle. In the adjoining bay are large beds of oyfter?, and plenty of fifh ; and fome years they have a good herring fi/hery, but its chief commodities are butter and cheefe. At Yftumllin, a little to the eaftward of this place, there is a vein of yellow ochre. We next proceeded to Kevin, or Newin, feated on the fta-lhore, on the weft fide of the peninfula, aimoft oppofite to the Puliheli, from which it is eight miles diftant, and two hundred and forty-five mil s from London. The pier at this place is very ufeful foi the herring fifhery, herrings and oyfters being the chief commodities of the place. In the year 1747, there were five thoufand barrels of fait herrings exported from hence and the pares adjacent, befides what was con fumed in the country. They have alfo cod, whitings, whiting pollacks, millers thumbs, fea tench, labfters, and crabs. The town itfelf is but mean, though it has a fmall market on Saturdays, and three fairs, viz. April the fourth, the Saturday before Whitfuntide, and Auguft the twenty-fifth, for cattle. At Borth, not far from Newin, are two fairs held annually, viz. on Auguft the twenty-fixth, and O&ober the twenty-fourth. To the eaft of the fouth-eaft promontory of the peninfula, is an ifland called Tydwal, to the north of which, is Tydwal road, thought to be one of the beft in Great-Britain, being a good outlet, and fo extenfive that it is large enough to contain the whole royal navy of England. Near it are feveral veins of lead and cop- per ore, and at Penryn du, there is a lead mine that has been formerly worked with advantage; but it is now under water, and yet might be recovered with proper engines. At a place called Mynhedd y Rhiw, not far from hence, there is found a blackifh heavy hard ftone, which is counted more proper than brafs for the center pins of light engines to turn on. And farther on to- wards Bardfey found, there is a beautiful red ftone, which will bear a fine polilh. Bardfey, is a fmall ifland fituated near the extremity of the fouth-weft promontory of this peninfula. There was an abbey founded here before the year 516 ; it was dedicated to St. Mary, and continued till the diflblution, in the reign of Henry VII. when the annual revenue amounted to one hundred and forty-fix pounds, one fhilling and four-pence. From hence we continued our journey to Caernarvon, fituated on the ftrcights of Meneu, or Menay, the channel that feparates this county from the ifland of Anglefea, two hundred and fifty-eight miles from London. This town was called by the Britons, Caer Scint, from the river Sciont, which runs by it; and it was here the antient Legontium of Antoninus is thought by Camden to have been fituated. About the year 600, it was the feat of the Britifli princes, but it gave way to the new town built in after times, called Caernarvon, .or Caer ar Von, that is, the town overagainft Mon, or Anglefea; from which the county now borrows its name, as we have before ob- ferved. This town is encompaffed with a firm wall, and over it are feen Snowdon hills. It is related that the body of the emperor Conftantius, father of Conftan- tine the Great, being found here about the year 1283, when king Edward 1. was building this town and caftie, he ordered it to be interred honourably in the new- church. It is likewife faid of this king, that he converted the profits of the arthbifhopric of York, then void, to the building CAERNARV O N S H I R E. 259 building and fortifying the caftle ; in one part of which was born, on the twenty-fifth of April, 1284^ Edward of Caernarvon ; the fir ft prince of Wales, of the Englifh blood ; afterwards king of England, by the name of Edward II. T hey fhew the queen's bed-chamber to all travellers that vifit this caftle. It is built in the Roman ftile of architecture; and has one tower eminent above the reft called the Eaglc*s tour, from an eagle carved upon it. This caftle was befieged by the parliamentary forces in the gre.it rebellion, and furrendered to them in the Beginning of June, 1646. Caernarvon was formerly a town of confiJerable note, and the chancery and exchequer for North- Wales were edVolifbed in it. 1c is governed . by the conftable of the caftle, who by virtue of his patent, is always mayor of the town ; and fubordinate to him are an al- derman, two bailiffs, a town-clerk, and other officers. The town, at prefent, though fmall, is neat, tol- lerably built and well inhabited, and there is good an- chorage in the bay, the ferry which goes from hence to Anglefea, is cnlled Abermenai ferry, whence there is a direct road to Holyhead. Caernarvon gives the titles of earl and marquis to the noble family of Bridges, for fome fucceffions, cukes, of Chandos. The chief commodities here are corn and flate, and they fhip off here yearly from twenty to thirty thoufand bufhcls of different kinds of. grain. The Hates are of the blue kind, and being very light, are convenient for houfes fiightly timbered, and .will endure the weather extremely well. Of thefe they fend yearly to different parts of England and Ireland above four millions. Nor far off on the Anglefea fide, they have plenty of iimeftone and near Moel y Don, on the Caernarvonfhire fide, there is a large bed of a fmall beautiful grained white free-ftone. which fupplies all the artificers in this part of the world with whet ftones ; the hardeft of it when ufed with oil, being little inferior to the Turkey oii-flone. They have fifh here in great plenty, fuch as falmon, cod, and whitings ; all fort of flat-fifh, oyfiers, mufcles, and cockles. They alfo Ihip oft* great quantities of butter, cheefe, honey, and wax. There are feveral veins of lead ore, lately dif- covered near Snowdon-hill, notifar from hence; and not many years ago a woollen manufacture was fet up here, which it is thought will anfwer very well. This town fends one member to parliament, %as a weekly market on Saturday's, and four annual fairs, viz. February the twenty-fifth, May the fixteenth,' Auguft the fourth, and December the fifth, for cattle, and ped- lars ware. At Dolbadern, five miles eaft of Caernarvon, and under Snowdon-hill, are the ruins of a caftle, of which there is only one tower now Handing, and that not entire. Thefe ruins are pretty large, and feem to have been an ancient Eritifh fort ; the caftle was given away from the crown by king William foon after the re- volution. Aberwingregin, not far from the above place, is only noted for having three fairs, all for cattle, namely, on Auguft the eighteenth, October the twenty-fifth, and November the twenty-fii ft. Bettws, a village on the banks of the Conway, and on the borders of Denbighfhire, about feventeen miles eaft of Caernarvon, is remarkable only for having two fairs annually for cattle, viz. May the fifteenth, and December the third. Beddgelert is a village fcated to the fouth of Snowdon- hill, and thirteen miles fouth^eaft of Caernarvon ; it has two fairs on Auguft the fixteenth, and September the twenty-third, for cattle. Penmorfa, a village about five- miles to the fouthward of that laft mentioned, has three fairs, viz. on Auguft the twentieth, September the twenty-fifth, and Novem- ber the twelfth, for cattle. Clynogvawr is a village feated in the weftern part of the county, on St. George's channel, ten miles fouth of Caernarvon. St. Beans had this townfhip given him by Gwiddeint or Guithin of the blood royal of Wales, about the year 616, and here built a Ciftertian abbey, becoming himfeif the fiift abbot thereof. It was afterwards dedicated to him, and received favours and poffeffions from feveral Welch princes; but ha3 been long fince demolifhed. The prefent edifice, which is in good condition, has been a collegiate church, once in great repute, confifting of five portionifts or preben- daries, and continued fo till the diffolution, when it was converted into a finecure, rectory and vicarage en- dowed. The advowfon was fome time fince given by the earl of Pembroke to Jefus College in Oxford, and the college at the fame time obliged always to prefent their Principal to the re£tory. There are two fairs kept here, on Auguft the eighteenth, and September the twenty-third, both for cattle. From hence we purfued our journey to the city of Bangor, or Banchor, two hundred and thirty-fix miles from London ; and though it is at prefent a mean town, it was anciently called by the Britons Bangor Vawr yn Gwyned, that is to fay, Bangor The Great in North- Wales ; it is in the northern part of the county, near the entrance of the Menai, which parts this fhire from Anglefea. It is inclofed on the fouth by a very fteep mountain, and by a hill on the north. A bifhoprick is thought to have been erected at Bangor, before the middle of the fixth century, by Malgwyn, or Malgo Conan, prince of North-Wales ; though we find no certain footfteps of any bifhop refid- ing here till the reign of king Henry 1. The firft bifhop is faid to be Daniel, the fon of Dinothus, abbot of Bangor, in Flintfhire, who had before founded a mo- naftery, or college here. The old church was burnt by Owen Glendowr, about the year 1404, rnd afterwards rebuilt in the reign of Henry VII. by Henry Dennis, its bifhop. Upon the diffolution, the revenues of the bifhopric were valued at one hundred and fifty-one pounds, three {hillings, per annum. The whole length of the cathedral, which is now ufed for the parifh church, is two hundred and fourteen feet, the crofs ifle is near ninety-fix feet long, and the tower fixty feet high. This fabric is kept in good repair, two thirds of the rectory of Llandinam being fettled to fupport it ; and there now belongs to the cathedral, a bifhop, a dean, an archdeacon, a treafurer, and two prebendaries endowed, a precentor, a chancellor, and three canons not endowed ; two vicars coral, an organift, lay clerks, chorifters, and other officers. Befides the cathedral, there is a palace belonging to the bifhop, and a free fchool, which, fo early as the year 1276, was an houfe of friars predicant; but in 1557, it was converted by Dr. Jeffery Glynn to its prefent ufe. It was formerly defended by a caftle, built by Hugh earl of Chefter, of which there are now no remains. Though the buildings are old and mean, the town is pretty well inhabited. Here is a weekly market on Wednefday, and three annual fairs, viz. April the fifth, June the twenty-fifth, and October the twenty-eighth, all for cattle. Llandlechyd, a fmall village about three miles from Bangor, has one annual fair on the thirtieth of October, for cattle. About fix miles fouth-eaft of the above village is Dolwyddelen, or us revolutions, fince it was finally abandoned by the Romans, of wlm ^herc are no diftincl accounts extant. All that we can afcor- tain is, that it was invaded by the Iriih, by the Anglo- Saxons, arid by the Norwegians ■> and that king Emeirei failed round the coalt to th- year ioco, and plunder*,!* the inhabitants. In the year 94 5, a battle wa fought,, between Howeldha, king of Wales, and; Kyvati aj» Edvval Voel, wherein Kynan was vanqu r] ; after which Grufydth, his fon, rent-wed hoflilities, and was likewife defeated. Next, Kyngar, a po erful man, was driven out of the ifland j who was the laft enemy Howeldha had to cope .'*' th. The country was gqg .;!y oi oreflld by Hugh earl of Cheifer, and Hugh Sferl of Stk p, about the year 109S, who, to keep it in Cufojrt&iotR, built the caftle of Aber Lhienawg ; but Magnus, the Norwegian, coming to the iiland, about the fame time, fhot the earl of Chefter through the body with an arrow, pillaged, and forfook it. The Engliih afterwards attcn.'pted feveral times tr> reduce it, but unfuccefsfully, till the reign of Edward £, when it was entirely fubdued, and annexed to the crowa of England. As Anglefea was the principal feat of the antient Britifh Druids, whofe religion, ceremonies, and ct;f~ toms, have, fo long employed the refearches of our moil fkilful antiquaries, and in a very particular manner thofe of the learned author of Mona Antiqua Reitaur- :a, it will not be foreign to out furvev of this iiland, to "ive • t 4 * D a more particular account of that remarkable fe£i, their ceremonies, cuftoms, and u ctrines. The antiquity < r the Drulo is efleemed equal to that of the Braciunai 3 <>f India, the Magi of Pvrfia, and the Chal'Jees of B .ibyion. And whoever confiders the ftirpriling conformity ©f their doctrine, will find fuf- ficient reafon to think that they all derived it from the fame hand, we mean from Noah and his immediate defcendants, wh<- carried it with them at their difperfion; for it cannot be fuppofed that the Britifh druids derived their doctrine fr m any foreign feet, to whom they were abiolutely unknown. Bui the druids were not contented with the power annexed to the pricfthood ; they introduced religion into c/erj A N G L £ s e a; every transition both public and private, fo that no- thing could be done without their approbation ; and by this means their authority was rendered almoft ablolute. They elected the annual magiftratesof every diftrict, who fhould have enjoyed, during that term, the fupreme au- thority, and fometimes the title of Icings; but they could not even call a council without their approbation and advice : fo that, notwithftanding their pretended autho- rity, they were in reality the creatures and flaves of the druids. They exercifed the fame arbitrary power in their courts of juftice ; and whoever refufed to fubmit to their deci- fions, were excluded from the public facrifices, which was confidered as the greateft punifhment that could be inflicted. It muft however be acknowledged, that their admimftration of juftice has always been celebrated lor its impartiality. The fole management and inftruction of youth was alfo committed to them, except the train- ing them up in the art of war ; for both they and their diiciples were not only exempted from going to war, but likewife from all kind of tribute. Their garments were remarkably long; and, when employed in religious ceremonies, they always wore a white furplice. They generally carried a wand in their hands, and wore a kind of ornament enchafed in gold about their necks, called the druid's egg. Their necks were likewife decorated with gold chains, and their hands and arms with bracelets : they wore their hair very ihort, and their beards remarkably long. They were all fubordinate to a chief or fovereign pontiff, ftiled the arch-druid, chofen from among their fraternity by a plurality of voices ; but, in cafe of a com- petition too powerful to be decided by a majority, the conteft was determined by the fword. He enjoyed his fupremacy for life, had power to infpect the conduct of kings, and either to elect or depofe whenever he pleafed. It was one of the maxims of their religion, not to commit any thing to writing; but deliver all their my- fteries and learning in verfes compofed for that purpofe ; and thei'e were in time multiplied to fuch a number, that it generally took up twenty years to learn them all by heart. By this means their doctrines appeared more myfterious by being unknown to all but themfelves ; and having no books to recur to, they were the more careful to fix them in their memory. But what had ftill a more direct tendency to impofe on the public, was their pretended familiar intercourfe with the gods. And, in order to conceal at once their own ignorance, and render the impofition lefs fufceptible of detection, they boafted of their great fkill in magic, and cultivated feveral branches of the mathematics, par- ticularly aftronomy. The latter they carried to fome degree of perfection ; for they were able to foretel the times, quantities, and durations of eclipfes ; a circum- ftance which could not fail of attracting reverence from an ignorant multitude, who were perfuaded that nothing Jefs than a fupernatural power was fufficient to make fuch aftonifhing predictions : they alfo ftudied natural philofophy, and practifed phyfic. Before we conclude this account of the Druids, we muft obferve, that the fair fex enjoyed a part of the priefthood ; and were confidered as endowed with the fpirit of prophecy. They affifted the Druids at their religious functions; and fome of them became very famous for the great progrefs they made in different branches of learning. The next order in great efteem among them, was that of the bards. Some writers indeed have confounded thefe with the Druids, but this is a miftake ; they had their name from their office, which was to chant hymns in concert at their periodical feftivals, and celebrate the praifes of their heroes. Thefe fongs were accompanied with mufical inftruments, and confidered as the dictates of their gods ; fo that it is no wonder the bards were held in the higheft efteem. It is even faid, that they could at any time put a flop to a whole army's engaging by their interpofition : fo great was the power of the mufes over a barbarous multitude ! They worfhipped the Supreme Being under the name of Efus, or Hefus, and the fymbol of the oak ; and had 74 no other temple than a wood or grove, where all their religious rites were performed. Nor was any perfon admitted to enter that facred recefs, unlefs he carried with him a chain, in token of his abfolute dependence on the Deity. Indeed, their whole religion originally confifted in acknowledging that the Supreme Being, who made his abode in thefe facred groves, governed the univerfe, and that every creature ought to obey his laws, and p,iy him divine homage. They confidered the oalc as the emblem, or rather the peculiar relidence of the Almighty; and accordingly chaplets of it were worn both by the Druids and people- in their religious ceremonies, the altars were ftrewed with its leaves, and encircled with its branches. The fruit of it, efpecially the mifletoe, was thought to con- tain a divine virtue, and to be the peculiar gift of heaven. It was therefore fought for on the fixth clay of the moon with the greateft earneftnefs and anxietv, and when found was hailed with fuch raptures of joy, as almoft exceeds imagination to conceive. As foon as the Druids were informed of this fortunate difcovery, they prepared every thing readv for '.he fkcri- fice under the oak, to which they faftcned two white bulls by the horns : then the Arch- 'ruid, attended bv a prodigious multitude of people, afeerided the tree, drefled in white, and with a confecrated golden knife, or prun- ing-hook, cropped the mifletoe, which he received iri his fagum or robe, amidft the rapturous exclamations of the people. Having fecurcd this facred plant, he de- feended the tree, the bulls were facrificed, and the Deity invoked to blefs his own gift, and render it efficacious in thofe diftempers in which it fhould be adminifterod. The confecrated groves, in which they performed their religious rites, were fenced round with ftones, to prevent any perfon's entering between the trees, except through the paffages left open for that purpofe, and which were guarded by fome inferior druids, to prevent any ftranger from intruding into their myltei ies. Thefe groves were of different forms, fome quite circular* others oblong, and more or lefs capacious, as the num- bers of votaries in the diftricts to which they belonged* were more or lefs numerous. The area in the center of the grove was encompaffed with feveral rows of large oaks fet very clofe together. Within this large circle were feveral fmaller ones furrounded with large ftones ; and near the center of thefe fmaller circles, were ftones of a prodigious fize, and convenient height, on which the victims were flain, and offered. Each of thefe being a kind of altar, was furrounded with another row of ftones, the ufe of which cannot now be known unlefs they were intended as cinctures to keep the people at a convenient diftance from the officiating prieft. Nor is it unreafonable to fuppofe, that they had other groves appointed for fecular purpofes, and perhaps planted with oaks as the others were, that the facred trees might ftrike the members of fuch courts and councils with awe, and prevent all quarrels and indecent expreffions. While the religion of the Druids continued pure, and unmixed with any foreign cuftoms, they offered only oblations of fine flour fprinkled with fait, and adored the Supreme Being in prayers and thankfgivino-s. But after they had for fome time carried on a commerce with the Phoenicians, they loft their original limplicity, adored a variety of gods, adopted the barbarous cuftom of offering human victims, and even improved on the cruelty of other nations ; ufing thefe unfortunate mortals for the purpofes of divination, with fuch barbarous cruelty, as is mocking to human nature to relate. Prac- tices like thefe foon rendered them fo deaf to the voice of humanity, that on extraordinary-occalions they erected a monftrous hollow pile of ofier, which they fijled with thefe unhappy wretches, and burnt them to their gods. Criminals were indeed chofen for this bai barons facri- fice ; but in want of thefe, the innocent became victims of a cruel fuperflition. Temples they had none before the coming of the Romans, nor in all probability for a long time after: for with regard to thofe vaft piles of ftones IHIJ remain- ing, they i'eem rather to have been funeral monuments 3 Y than 266 A N G L E S E A. than places of worfliip; efpecially as all the ancient writers aoree that their religious ceremonies were always performed in their confecrated groves. Accordingly Tacitus, fpeaking of the defcent of the Romans, tells us, that their fir It care was to deftroy thofe groves and woods which had been polluted with the blood of fo many human vidtims. One of the chief tenets taught by the Druids was the immortality of the foul, and its tranlmigration from one body to another; a dodrine which they confidered as proper to infpire them with courage, and a contempt of death. They alfo inftrudted their difciples in feveral traditions concerning the ftars and their motions, the extent of the world, the nature of things, and the power of the immortal gods. But as they never committed any of their tenets to writing, in order at once to conceal their myfterious learning from the vulgar, and exercife the minds of their difciples, the greateft part of them are now irrecoverably buiied in the lake of oblivion. We have already mentioned, that in their facred oroves were feveral large ftones, fuppofed to be the altars on which they offered their vidtims. Some of thefe Hones are ftill remaining, and are of fu< h an amazing magnitude, that the bringing and rearing them was thouoht by the fuperft itious to have been the work of thofe- demons fuppofed to attend on that manner of woifhip. At Tre'r Druw is one confifting of upright flones, in form refembling an horfe-fhoe, including an area of twenty paces diameter, and W2S, in the opinion of Borlafe, the learned and very difcerning author of the hiftory and antiquities of Cornwall, a theatre, erected by the Druids, for the exhibition of plays, or fomewhat like them, there having been feats and benches in the circular part of it, to accommodate the fpedtators. Thefe ftoncs are twelve in number, each twelve feet hi^h, and eight broad. This monument is called Bryn- o-win, or Supreme-cc.urt ; and fometimes Kerig y Brin- owin, or Brin-gwin ftone. Some, and perhaps with yet more probability, have conjectured it was intended for a temple; and Mr. Mafon probably had it in his thoughts, when he thus painted the Lruids temple in his Caradtacus. Behold yon oak, How (tern he frowns, and with his broad brown arms Chijls the pale plain beneath him : mark yon altar The dark ftream brawling round its rugged bafe, Thefe cliffs, thefe yawning caverns, this wide circus, Skirted with unhewn itone . . . Thefe mighty piles of magic planted rock, Thus ranged in myfiic order, mark the place Where but at times of holieft feftival The Druid leads his train. There dwells the feer In yonder fh'aggy cave on which the moon Now fheds a fide-long gleam. His brotherhood Pond's the neighbouring cliffs . . . Mine eye defcries a diftant range of caves Celv'd in the ridges of the craggy fteep : And. this way ftill another. On the left Kei;ce the f2ges (killed in Nature's lore: The changeful univerfej its numbers, powers, Studious they meafure, lave when meditation (Jives place to holy rites : then in the grove Each hath his rank and function. Yonder grots Are tenanted by Bards, who nightly thence, Rob'd in their flowing vefts of innocent white, Defcend, with harps that glitter to the moon, Hymning immortal ftrains. RIVERS. The principal rivers of this ifland are, the Brent, and the Kevcny. The Brant rifes about three or four miles weftward of Beaumaris, and running fouth-weit, falls into the Menen, eaft of the market-town of Ncvvburgh. The Kcveny iflues from a high hill, near a village called Coydana, about ten miles north-weft of Beau- maris ; and running louth-wcft, and being joined by a fmall river called the Ghent, falls into the Irifh fea weft of Newburgh. The lefs confiderable ftreams of this ifland are, the Alow, the Dudas, and theGeweger. Air, Soil, and Natural Productions. The air of this ifland is efteemed healthy, except in autumn, when it is frequently foggy, and apt to produce agues, and other diforders that anfe from a cold vapid air. The foil, though it appears rough, being ftony and mountainous, is fo fruitful in corn and pafture, that the Welfh, in i heir language, call it Mam Gymry, the mother or nurfe of Wales. Moft parts of the ifland of Anglefea yield honey, wax, tallow, hides, woollen and linen cloth : but the chief trade is in corn and cattle. It was obferved above an hundred years fince, that this ifland fent three thou- fand head of cattle yearly to the Englifh markets; at prefent they fend above fifteen thoufand ; five thoufand hogs, and a great number of fheep. After all the fairs are over, it is computed they have a flock of cattle of at leaft thirty thoufand. They feed on fhort grafs, which renders the beef folid and fweet, and very proper to vidtual fhips for long voyages. This ifland likewife abounds with fifh and fowl, and in feveral parts of it are found great plenty of excellent mill-ftones and grind-ftones. Market Towns. The market-towns are, Beaumaris and Newburgh. We crofled the ff rait of Menai at Beaumaris, the principal town in this ifland. It derives its name from the French word beau maris, which fignifies a fine marfh. or moor; and is very defcriptive of the fituation of this town, being in a moorifh fpot, by the lea-fide, on the weftern bank of the Menai. It is a handfome, well built town, two hundred and forty-one miles from London ; and confifts chiefly of two very good ftreets. It was built by king Edward I. who fortified it with a ftrong cattle; but by the ruins, it does not appear to have been ever equal to thofe of Caernarvon and Conway in point of beauty, though perhaps not inferior in itrength. This being a corpo- ration town, it is governed by a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, and twenty-one common-councilmen, called burgefles, a town-clerk, and two ferjeants at mace. The mayor, recorder, and bailiffs, are juftices of the peace ; and here the great fefllons for the county, the county court, and the quarter-feflions, are held. Before Liverpool became fo great a mart, this place carried on a confiderable trade, which it has now en- tirely loft ; and is of courfe at prefent in a declining condition ; but having an excellent and well fituated harbour, it might ftill recover its former flourifhing ftate, had the inhabitants a turn for commerce ; but, on the contrary, their attention is fixed on agriculture, and a traveller muft be furprized, when he obferves, here and there, in this ifland, fmall fpots of land cultivated on the fide' of a fteep hill, where it would feem impoflible for an horfe to afcend, or, when he gets to the top, to plough land that has fo great a flope : but the furrows axtend along the fides of the hills, and not upwards and downwards; for was this to be attempted, plough and horfe would both tumble to the bottom. This remark holds true, not only with refpedt to the ifle of Anglefea, but to North-Wales in general ; and it is a pleafing fight to fee the corn waving on high, encompafled above and below by a mixture of bare rocks, weeds and fhrubs, which, added to a fine green lawn before the town, from whence there is a charming profpedt of the Caer- narvonfhire mountains, with a haven of the fea, renders this place truly delightful. Here is a handfome church, and a county jail. This town fends one member to parliament, has two weekly markets, held on Wednef- days and Saturdays, which are well fupplied with corn butter, cheefe, fifh, and all other kinds of provifions ; and four annual fairs, viz. February the thirteenth, Holy-Thurfday, September the nineteenth, and Decem- ber the nineteenth, all for cattle. 5 ^ R M 19 L. L J 1L A At Prieftholm ifland, which lies almoft clofc to the (hore, about five miles diftant, north, they have birds of paffage, called Puffins, which are pickled and fold at a confiderable price ; and numbers of them are conveyed even to London, where they are efleemed a delicacy. Baron-hill, the feat of lord Bulkeley, is fituated upon an eminence, about half a mile d i ft a n t from Beaumaris. The houfe itfelf has nothing in it tha: deferves much admiration ; but it commands an extenfive and very beautiful profpedt j and the fituation is far preferable to any in Wales. We likewife vifited the feat of Sir Nicholas Bayly. It is built in the Gothic (tile, with great elegance and irate. Its fituation on the banks of the Menai, with a profpect of the mountains at a diitance, renders it the admiration of all who fee it. At Penmon, to the ndrth-eaft of Beaumaris, and in its neighbourhood, are quarries of mill-ftones of the grit kind, great quantities of which are exported : alfo h good harbour for (hipping, a confiderable herring fifhery ; and oyfters, which are fat, large, and remarkably line, when pickled. Penmon priory was a houfe for minor canons of the order of .St. Auguftine, dedicated to St. Mary, and founded by GwynedJ, king of the Biitens, in the year 540. The prior was one of the three fpiritual lords of Anglefea, and the yearly value, at the diiTolution, was forty pounds feventeeu (hillings and nine-pence halfpenny. The ruins are frill to be feen near Penmon. Lewcline ap Jprwerth, prince of North- Wales, before the year 12, 10, founded a monaftery of friars minors, dedicated to St. Francis, at Lhanvaes, or Lhanddwyn, near Beaumaris, to which there belonged a large track; at land; but, except one fmall tenement, it is now all; covered with fand hills, and lying on the Irifh fea, is a' noted land-mark for feamen. A prince of the fame name founded, before the year 122 1, a priory of black monks, at Prieftholm, dedicated to St. Mary, and valued, upon the diilolution, at forty-feven pounds fifteen (hillings and three-pence per annum. Llannerchymeadd is a village, thirteen miles north- weft of Beaumaris, which has four fairs, held on Fe- bruary the fifth, April the twenty-fifth, May the fixth, and theTburfday after Trinity, all for cattle. Red-wharf is a bay and harbour, five miles to the weft of Beaumaris, and is noted for the lime-ftpne trade carried on to all the neighbouring countries ;■ among which is plenty of grey marble that will bear a fine po- lilh. Near it are alfo remarkable quarries of mill-ftones, of the grit kind, which are exported ; and in the neigh- bourhood are large, loofe blocks of grey marble j one uf which, upon examination, was three feet thick, nine broad, and twenty-feven lono;. Properly cut, they would make excellent pillars for building. This bay alfo fur- nilhes rich fand lor manure, which is conveyed in fmail (loops round all the coait of Anglefea, and fo fertilizes the land, that it yields large crops of oats and barley. Here are alfo plenty of herrings in the ieafon, which bring the inhabitants confiderable profit. Dulas is a bay and harbour much frequented on ac- count of the corn and butter trade, and the herring fifhe- ry, the mouth of which is on the north-fide of the ifland, thirteen miles north-weft of Beaumaris. Here is plenty of a reddifh ockery earth, fomewhat like Spa- ni(h brown, but bears a. far better body. Veins of lead ' ore have alfo been lately difecvered. On ail this coaft they make fern aihes, which are fold to .foap -boilers, glafs and fmelting houfes. From Beaumaris we travelled through the whole ex- tent of the county ; till we came to Holy-head. Our journey was rather unpleafant, the roads in this part be- ing very bad; our horfes funk into the clay, fo that it was with the utmoft difficulty we travelled. But the turnpike roads in this county, are not inferior to any in the kingdom. During our whole day's journey, we fcarce faw a tree, or a gentleman's feat. The face of the country affords a difagreeable and melancholy prof- pect, though the land is (aid to be rich and fertile. Holyhead, is fituated in a peninfula at the weftern extremity of the ifland, oppofite to Dublin, noted for being the ftation of the packet-boats between England and Ireland, and principally confiding of houfes of en- tertainment, for perfons bound either to or from that kingdom, which make but an indifferent appearance, and are fcattered up and down in a diforderly manner. It is however a place of confiderable refort, populous, and in a flourifhing ftate. This town is called Cacr Gybi, in Welch, from Kybi, a holy man, who lived about the year 650, and here ended his days. He founded a collegiate church, and the prefident of the college was one of the three fpiri- tual, lords of Anglefea. The walls of the church-yard are the remains of a Britifh fortification, built in the year 450. The church was re-built in, or foon after the reign of king Edward III. and is at prefent an handfome ftructure. Here was alfo a caftle, with a royal free chapel, valued at twenty-four pounds per annum, at the diiTolution. There was a falt-houfe at the entrance of Holy-head harbour, erected in confequence of an act of parliament made in the fixth year of the reign of queen Anne, to permit the inhabitants the ufe of rock fait, to ftrengthen the fra water ; but for want of proper management it fell to decay, and at 1 aft came to nothing. In this har- bour, in the year 1747, there were (hipped twenty- two thoufand bufhels of all forts of corn. The other com- modities of Holyhead are butter, cheefe, bacon, wild fowl, of which there is great plenty; oyfters, lobfters, crabs, razor-fifh, herrings, ccd-fifh, whitings, whiting- pollacks, coal-fi(h, fea-tench, turbots, foals, flounders, fcate, thornbacks, &c. The plant called in Welfh Grimnion, and by the Englifh Tang, grows on the fea rocks, near this har- bour, of which the inhabitants make a great advantage, by burning it to a fixed fait, called Kelp, which is ufed in the manufacturing of glafs, and in the allum works. Samphire, fo well known for making an excellent pickle.; grows upon the rocks and the coaft. In the neighbourhood of Holyhead, is a large vein of white fuller's earth, and another of yellow, which lying fo near the fea might be eafily exported to diftant parts. Within a mile of the town, on a hillock, near the road leading to Beaumaris, is a monument, confid- ing of large (tones, about twenty in number, and be- tween four and five feet high, except two at the nor- thern end, which are fix feet in height. They ftand in a farm called Trevigneth, and have no other name than Lhecheu, whence the field in which they are erected is called Caer Lhecheu. Llanvaier, a fmall village, is fituated where the two reads from Beaumaris and Newburgh to Holyhead meet, and about fix miles fouth eaft of the latter. Some work- men digging a well on the premifes of one Mr. Jones, an inhabitant of Llanvaier, about the middle of March, in the year 1764, found an earthen pot, or Urn, con- taining twenty pieces of copper Roman coin, nineteen of which were of the emperor Ceraufius, and one of Alectus. Two miles from the north-weft point of Anglefea, and about nine miles north of Holyhead harbour, is a fmall ifland called Skerries. Upon this ifland a light- houfe is erected, the light of which may be feen at the diftance of feven or eight leagues, and is of great ufe to navigators. The birds called Puffins, breed here in great numbers; a flock of them comes annually, all in one night, and depart in the fame manner, at the proper feafon of the following year. Sea-tenches, and variety of other fifh, are here in great plenty, fome of which are taken by angling, from the cliffs of the rocks ; and in the fummer time coal-fifh abound fo, that the men be- longing to the light-houfe ftand upon the point of the rock and frequently take them up with bafkets, as they are paffing by. Arerfraw, on the fouth-weft fide of the ifland, twelve miles fouth-eaft of Holyhead, was formerly a confider- able place, the refidence of the princes of North-Wales, who were fometimes called kings of Aberfraw : curio- fity induced us to view this feat of the ancient Britifh princes, but how much were our expectations difap- pointed. Jt is a little country village, without any re- mains of grandeur, or monuments of antiquity that we could difcern. We 263 ANGL E SEA. We were told, that part of the wall of the king's pa- lace was converted into a barn. It is aftonifhing how the princes of N on!: -Wales could have chofen fuch a fituation for their trlidencc ; eligible for no reafon that can now be conceived. It is now moftly frequented by coafting (loops who come here to take in their lading of corn, butter and cluck. Oyflers, whitings and other iifh arc plenty : the land in the nighbourhood is good manure, and is carried on horfes, for that purpofe, fome Erilles into the country. At this village wa^ found one of thofe glafs rings, fuppofed to have been ufed as charms, or amulets, by the ancient Druids: They are fmall glafs amulets, generally about half as wide as our finger rings, but much thicker, ufually of a green co- Jour, though feme are blue,- and others curioufly waved with blue, red and white. The Welfh call thefe rings Gleineu Nadrifedh, and fuppofe them generated by fnakes ; but in Glamorganfhire, and Monmouthfhire, they are called Maen mag*, and corruptly Glaim, for Glain : the Englifh, in fome places, call them Snake- itones. An account of fome others will be found in our defcriptions of Denbighfhire and Merionethffaire j but a ftill more extenfive one in the laft edition of Camden's Britannia, page 815. At Llanwyvan, in the neighbour- hood of Aberfraw, is a quarry of white marble, which takes a good polilh,- and might be ufeful in ftatuary. Aberfraw has four fairs, on March the feventh, Wed- wefday ;-.fter Trinity, October the twenty-third, and December the nineteenth, all for cattle. Tregai-an is fituated ®n the banks of the Keveny, with- in fomething more than a mile of its fource, and about ten miles to the north-caft of Aberfraw. This village is chiefly remarkable as the birth-place of William Da- vid ap riovvel ap Jorworth, who was living in it in the year 1581, though he died foon after, and was then one hundred and five years of age. He had had three wives and two concubines: the number of his children, lawfully begotten, was thirty-fix; of thofe by his con- cubines, feven. His cldcft fon, Griffith ap William, eighty-four years old, had a great number of children and grand children ; his youngeft fon Griffith ap Wil- liam, two years old, was alive in the faid parifh, there being eighty-two years difference between his age and that of his brother : about eighty-eight perfons, de- fcended of the old man, were living at the fame time, and in the fame place; and it is faid there were above three hundred perfons in all, fprung from him, and born in his life-time. He was of mean ftature, good com- plexion, feldom troubled with any diforder, moderate in diet, lived by tillage, and frequently exercifed himfelf in fifhing and fowling. His hearing, eyefight, and all his fenfes continued perfect to his death. xMalldrath, is a creek, four miles fouth-eafl: of Aber- fraw, frequented by fmall vefl'els which come to pur- chafe corn, butter, and cheefe, in great quantities, with moll kinds of fifh. Here is free-ftone for building, and at Llangeinwin, veins of lead ore, plenty of a heavy ruddy fpar,. probably containing metal, and a green ftone variegated with red and white fpots, which will hear a polifh. A fort of fea-fpurge is found in the creek, with which they dye their wool yellow. Up the river are fe- veral coal pits, which they can only link a few yards deep, on account of the water, which fills the works, and they have no engines to extract it. One vein of this coal is free and bituminous, to which fome give the name of run coal, because it foon moulders in the open air. A fecond is very hard, refembling the ftone coal of Pembrokcfhire ; a third of kennel coal ; and a fourth, V/hich refembles culm, but is not of the culm kind, hecaufe it will cake on the fire. Mr. Morris, who fur- veyed this ifland, thinks great profit might be made of thefe mines, if all the low grounds were drained. From Aberfraw we eroded the fands, and came to a corpoiation town, called Newborough, and in Brififh, Khos vair. It is fituated between the mouths of the rivers Brant and Keveney, two hundred and twenty-feven miles from London ; and is the mod confiderable town on the ifland, except Beaumaris. But it has been in a much more flourifhing ftate than at prefent, and had formerly a right of return- 4 ing a member to ferve in parliament, which it has loft for fome years. It appeared to us to be an ex- aeiing poor place; but we were told that the in-' habitants were all fo induftrious, that there was not a beggar in the whole place ; and indeed we did not find that any one afked alms of us ; a circum- ftance not very common in little country towns. The decay of this town is faid to be owing to the vaft heaps of fands thrown up round it by the fea; which has prevented the navigation. The govern- ment of this town is in the hands of a mayor, recorder and two bailiffs. It has a weekly fjfnarket on Tuefdays, and five annual fairs, viz. June the twenty-fecond, Auguft the tenth and twenty-firft, Sep- tember the twenty-fifth, and November the eleventh ; all for cattle. Over the church door of Llangud waladr, N. W. of Newburgh, is a ftone with the following inferip- tion, in very antique characters, in memory of Kadras, who was prince of North-Wales, about the middle- of the fixth century : Catamanus rex sapientissimus opinatissimus OMNIUM ReGUM. There is likewife another ftone near this town, part of the infeription of which may be read ; which is, Filius Ulrici erexit hunc lapidem : The fon of Ulric erected this ftone. Whence it fhould appear to be a Danifh or Norwegian monument; the name not being Britifh. At Tre'Varthin, not far from Newburgh, in the year 1680, was found a large gold medal of Julius Conftantius. At Bad-Oyr, about fix miles north-eaft of Newbo- rough, is a fepulchral monument, by the Welch called a Kromlech, from Krwm, fomewhat convex, and Lhech- a flat ftone. They are generally formed of rough, un- hewn ftones ; but this is neatly wrought, and pointed into feveral angles. It is fuppofed by fome, to be the Maufoleum of Bronwen, king Lhyr's daughter, who lived in the year of the world 3105 ; but this opinion is not fupported by fufficient authority. The length is feven feet, breadth fix feet, and the fame in thicknefs. The upper ftone is a detruncated pyramid, and fiat at the top. There are but three of thefe kromlech's now re- maining in this- ifland : one of which is eleven feet and a half high, four broad, and fourteen inches thick j the fecond is twelve feet high, and four broad ; and the third is ten feet high, eight broad, and but fix inches thick. Other monuments which confift of vaft rude ftones, laid together in circular order, inclofing an area five yaids in diameter, called by the inhabitants Irifti cot- tages or huts, are alfo found in Anglefea; but from the prefent appearance T tis difficult to decide whether they were Druid temples or fepulchral monuments. There are feveral places denominated Gwydhel, i. e. Irifh ; but we cannot fay upon what account, as there are no hiftories to inform us. Remii-ks on the Sea-coasts of Anglesea. The coaft of Anglefea is very rocky, though there are feveral good bays and harbours, where fhips of con- fiderable burden may ride in fafety. About half a mile to the north-eaft of Twyndu-point, is a fmall ifland called Prieft-Holme: the north fide of it is bordered with rocks j and off the^ fouth-weft corner is a large ledge of rocks, half a mile from the fhore. There is however a paflage between Twyndu-point and Prieft-Holme, in which there is fifteen fathoms water ; but the channel is not above a quarter of a mile broad. About fixtcen miles to the weftward of Twyne-point, is Carren-point, about a mile to the eaftward of which is a large ledge of rocks called the Platters, on which is only three feet at low water. The channel between them and Carren- point, is about three quarters of a mile broad, and has leventeen fathoms water. About two miles to the north- north-eaft of Carren-point, is a large rock, called the Cole, on which there are but fix feet water. About mid-way between the above rock and Carren-point is & A ft G h E S E a; 269 large know!, called the Weft-Moufe, always dry in the higheft tides. About a quarter of a mile to the weft- ward of the Platters, is a fmall ifland called the Skerries, on the coaft of which are feveral rocks, but very near the fhore. Theie is a paffage between the Skerries and the Platters, in Which there is feveh fathom water. Carren-bay, a little to the fouth-ward of Carren-point, is entirely free from rocks, fo that ftiips of confiderable burden may ride there in fafety in foutherly and fouth- weft winds, there being five fathom water within half a mile from the (hore. But to the fouth-ward of this bay the fhore is rocky, fo that (hips feldom anchor nearer the more than a mile, where there is ten fathom water. This is called Holy-head bay, and is frequented by (hips and vefiels frequenting that port. The ifland of Holy-head, is feparated from the ifland of Anglefea by a narrow arm of the fea. Before the port of Holy-head is a road where fhips frequently come to an anchor in five fathom water, about half a mile from the more, and are fheltered from all Winds except thofe from the north. Juft before the port is a fmall ifland, called Inriis Cubby, the eaftern fhore of which is full of rocks : and about a quarter of a mile to the north- eaft of Innis Cubby is a large ledge of focks, oh which there is more than three feet water. On the fouth-fide of the ifland of Anglefea is two ports, frequented by fmall vefiels, one called Aberfraw, and the other Newburgh ; the latter is a market-town, and has been defcribed in the preceding account of this ifland. At the fouth-eafl; point of Anglefea, a point of low fandy grounds moots off near two miles from the more, and on th~ extremity is the ferry-houfe, where paflen- gers land from Caernarvon. This point of land forms the weftern extremity of the ftreights of Menai, and is about three miles to the eaftward of Caernarvon bar j about a mile and a half to the weftward of this above point are two fhoals, called the MufTel Banks, on which there are only two feet water. About ten miles to the eaftward of this point is a fmall ifland, called Bifhop's ifland, fituated almoft in the middle of the ftreight ; and about two miles and a half to the eaftward of Bifhop's ifland, is Cadnant bay, where fmall vefiels often come to an anchor in ten feet water. There are feveral fmall iflands in this bay. All along 1 the fands, both on the Anglefea and Caernarvon- fhire fides of the ftreight, are wares for catching fifh. Two miles and a half to the eaftward of Cadnant bay, is Beaumaris, where there is a ferry from the road from Conway leading a-crofs the fands. To the eaftward of Beaumaris to Twyndu-point, are feveral ledges of rocks fcattered on the fands ; but as there is not water fufficient for fhips to get over thefe fands, the rocks are of no confequence to the navigation of thefe ftreights. Members of Parliament for Anglesea. The ifland of Anglefea fends two members to parlia- ment, one knight of the fhire for the county, and one burgefs for the borough of Beaumaris. U! 74 MONTGOMERY. ( 270 ) MONTGOMERYSHIRE THE Welfh name of this county is Tre-Fald- wyn ; the Englifh Montgomery, is derived from Sir Roger de Montgomery, a Norman baron, who had a giant of a great part of this country. Montgomeryfhire is an inland mountainous county, bounded by Denbighfhire on the north ; by Cardigan- fhire and Radnorshire on the fouth ; by Shropfhire on the eaft, and by Merionythfhire on the weft. It extends in length from eaft to weft thirty miles, from north to fouth twenty- five miles, and is ninety-four miles in cir- cumference. It is divided into feven hundreds, in which are five market towns, forty-feven parifhes, about five thoufand fix hundred houfes, and thirty-four thoufand inhabitants. It lies in the province' of Can- terbury, and partly jn the diocefe of St. Afaph, partly in that of Bangor, and partly in that of Hereford. Under the Romans this county was part of the terri- tories of the Ordovites, of which we have already given a lull account. R I VERS. The principal rivers of this country are the Severn, the Tanat, and the Turgh. The Severn, which we have already defcribed among the rivers of Gloucefter- fhire, becomes navigable at Welfh-pool, a market town of this county, after having been joined by twelve rivers, in a pafTuee of twenty miles from its fource. The Tanat, or Tanot, riles in the north-weft part of the county, not far weft of Llanvilling, a market town, and running eaftward falls into the Severn, near the place where it enters the county of Salop. The Turgh rifes in the weftern part of this county, and running north-eaft, and being joined by theWarway, falls into the Tanat north-eaft of Llanvilling. The lefs confiderable rivers of this county are the Riader, r the Vurnwey, the Rue, the Beckan, the Haves, the Carno, and the Dungum. Remarks on the Inland Navigation into Brecknock-mere. It is fuppofed the famous city Loventium, of Ptolemy, formerly ftood near this caftle, which is the more probable from the ruins found there, and all the great roads of the country tending thither : 1, Loventium, Loventi- as it is varioufly written, in Cardiganfhire. The caftle is fituated remarkably low, between Tretwr caftle and Brecon, not far from the north bank of the Ufk, and commands a fine view of the Mere. It was the demefne of a very confiderable baron, and foitified by Pete.r but in the laft edition of Camden, num, Luentium, or Luentinum, 5 fixed at Lhan dewi brevi, CAERMARTHENSHIRE. Peter Fitz-Herbct, defcended of Bernard New march, lord of Brecon, and his wife Nefta, daughter of Griffifi ap Llewellyn, prince of Wales : it afterwards* with its honours, came to the crown, but was granted away by king James I. and is now in private bands. On the fummit of a mountain near Lhan Tham- rawalch, a village not far from Brecknock, is an ancient monument called Ty Uhtud, or St. Iltud's Dernitage. Jt ftands near the church, and is compofed of four large ftones of a flattifh form, but altogether rude and unpo- Jiflied. Three of them are pitched in the ground j and the fourth ferves them for a cover; fo that together they make an oblong fquare hut, open at one end, being about eight feet in length', four in width, and nearly the fame in height : within, the two fide ftones are in- scribed with a number of croffes* This hut feems to have been ere&ed in the Pagari times, and very probably, by the ancient Druids; be- caufe there are other ftones of this fort, well known to have been of their erection. At prefent there is no circle round it, but there feems to have been one origi- nally, fome traces of it being ftill to be feen, and a ftone which flood within a few paces of the cell, has been carried away but a few years fmce, where there are other ftones now remaining. Members cf Parliament for Brecknockshire. This county fends two members to parliament ; one knight of the ftiire for the county, and one burgefs for the borough of Brecknock, CAERMARTHENSHIRE. THIS county, which derives its name from Caer- marthen, the county town, is bounded on the north by Cardiganshire, on the fouth, by the Severn, or St. George's Channel ; on the eaft by Brecknockfhire and Glamorganfhire, and on the weft by Pembrokefhire. It extends in length from north to fouth, about thirty-five miles ; in breadth from eaft to weft about twenty, and is one hundred and two mile, in circumference. Under the Romans, Caermarthenfhire, Cardiganfhire, and Pembrokefhire, were inhabited by a tribe of Britons, called by Ptolemy Dimeta; and Demtae. Pliny has al- lotted this diftricvt to theSilures; but in this he was miftaken, as it appears that later writers have conftantly given the name of Dimetia, to thefe three Counties ; which word is fuppofed with great probability to be de- rived from the Britifti name Dyved, by an eafy change of the letter V into an M, a cuftomary thing with the Romans; and it is by this name that the faid three couiuies are ftill known among the native Welih ; yet fome have fuppofed that the name Demetae was derived from the Britifti words Deheu-meath, which it is pre- tended fignify the fouthern plains.. The tenth legion, calkd Antoniana, which ferved under Oftorius againft the Silures and Ordovices, was in this county, as appears by feveral coins which have been found inferibed Ant Avg. and Leg. RIVERS. This county is well watered by feveral large rivers, the principal of which »re the Towy, the Cothy, and the Tave. The Towy is a confiderable river which rifes in Cardiganfhire, north-eaft of Tregaron, a market town ; and running fouth and fouth-weft through this, county, and paiTing by Llanimdovery, Llandilovawr, and Caermarthen, three market towns, falls into St. George's Channel about eight miles fouth of Caer- marthen. The Cothy rifes upon the borders of Cardiganfhire, fouth-eaft of Tregaron ; and running fouth-weft, falls into the Towy ?bout fix miles eaft of Caermarthen. The Tave, or Teivy, rifes in Cardiganfhire, near the fpring of the Towy ; and running fouth -weft, and fepsrating Cardiganfhire from Caermarthenfhire and Pembrokefhire, falls into the Irifh fea near Cardigan, the county town of the fnire of that name. The lefs remarkable rivers of this county are the D.ilas, the Brane, the Guendrathvawr, the Cowen, the Towa, the Tave, and the Amond, Remarks ok the Inland Navigation of Caermar- thenftiire. The only navigable rivers in this county are the Towy, and the Tave, which has water fufRcient for veffels of confiderable burthen to Caermarthen bridge. Boats pafs up much farther ; fome to Llandilovawr. It is indeed capable almoft through the whole country, but the many falls from the higher parts would render the undertaking very expenfive. The Cothy alfo might be rendered navigable; but not paffing by any town of note, the work will probably never be attempted. The Tave, or Teivy, is a very confiderable river, and navigable for boats as high as Llambedar in Car- diganfhire,. near thirty males from its mouth. Ships of confiderable burden pafs up to Cardigan. We (hall defcribe the different mouths, &c. of the river, in our remarks on the fea-coafts of Caermarthea- fhire. Air, Soil, and Natural Productions. The air of Caermarthenfhire is efteemed more mild and healthy than that of moft of the neighbouring counties ; and the foil not being fo mountainous and rocky as in many other parts of Wales, is more fruitful in corn and grafs. This county is well furnifhed with wood, feeds vaft numbers of good cattle, abounds with fowl and fifh, particularly falmon, for which the rivers here are famous ; and contains many mines of pit coaL It docs not appear that there is any manufacture here. Market Towns. The market-towns are, Ll'anelly, Kidwelly, Caer* marthen, Langharn, Newcaftle in Emlyn, Llanim- dovery, Llangadock, and Llandilovawr. We entered this county by the road from Brecknock, and purfued our journey north-weft to Llanimdovery, or Llanimdefry, fituated near the river Towy, on the bor- ders of the county next Brecknockfhire, one hundred and eighty-two miles from London. It is governed by a bailiff, and twelve capital burgeffes ; and all the free- holders are inferior burgeft'es. It confifts of about one hundred mean houfes : the parifh church, which is dedicated to St. Mary, ftands upon a hill, at a little diftance from the town. Near the eaft end of this church, Roman bricks, and other remains of antiquity, have been dug up, and there is a fine Roman way from the church to Llhanbran, which lies a few miles north CAER MART H EN SHIRE. a?7 of the town. Llanimdoverv had formerly a good caftle, and ftill has two confiderable weekly markets, on Wed- nefdays and Saturdays, and fix annual fairs, viz. on July the thirty-firft, Wednefday after October the tenth, November the twenty-fixth, Wednefday after Epiphany, Wednefday after Eafter, and Whitfun-Tuefday, for cattle, pigs, {lockings, and other things. We next vifited Llandilovawr, fituated on the river Dowy, over which here is a handfome ftonebridge, one hundred and feventy-two miles from London. It is a pretty good town, and the largeft parifh in the county, being thirteen miles long, and feven or eight broad. Here are two weekly markets, held on Tuefdays and Saturdays, for corn, cattle, and provifions ; and one annual fair, held June the twenty-firft, for cattle, horfes, fheep, and wool. Caerkenen Caftle is built on a rock, and ftands between the hills, about four miles eaft of Llandilovawr. By the gift of king Henry VII. it came to Sir Rice ap Thomas, Knt. of the garter, but being forfeited by his grandfon, Rice Griffith, it was granted to Richard Yaughan, earl of Carbery, lord prefident of Wales. About three miles fouth-weft of Llandilovawr is De- never Caftle, or more properly Denefawr Caftle^ which was the royal feat of the prince of South Wales. It has a very high fituation, being placed on the top of a hill, whereon grow a vaft number of trees. It has changed its maftcr very often, till at length it fell to the crown, and Henry VII. made a grant of it to Sir Rice ap Thomas, Knt. of the garter, in whofe family it ftill continues. There is only the middle part of it kept in repair, the reft being in ruins ; yet it has a very agreeable appearance at a diftance. Leaving Llandilovawr, we proceeded to Llangadock, fituated between the rivers Brane and Lawthy, one hun- dred and eighty-feven miles from London. It is an in- confiderable town of note, but for a good weekly market on Thurfdays, and five annual fairs, viz. March the twelfth, for horfes and pedlars ware ; Holy Thurfday, July the ninth, and the firft Thurfday in September, for cattle, horfes, and fheep ; and on December the eleventh, for cattle and pe-ilars ware. From hence we palled on to Llanelly, or Llanelthy. a pretty good town, two hundred and fourteen miles from London. It ftands very advantageoufly for the coal trade, being fituated between a creek of the fea and Dules river. < Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, which is well fupplied with corn and cattle; and two annual fairs, viz. Afcenfion-day, and September the thirtieth, for horfes, cattle, and pedlary. At Bachanis, or Machunnis, an ifland not far from Llannely, about the year 513, St. Pizo founded a mo- naftery, of which he was himfelf the firft abbot. We next entered Kidwelly, or Kydweli, fituated between two fmall rivers, on a large bay of the Severn fea, called Tenby, two hundred and twenty-two miles from London. It is governed by a mayor, is chiefly inhabited by fifhermen, and has a harbour, which is at prefent almoft ufelefs, being choaked up with fand. This town is by fome thought to be the place where a great battle was fought anno 458, between Ambrofius Aurelianus, with his Armoricans, and the Britons, who took part with Vortigern, after he had clofely connected himfelf with the Saxons; but which fide gained the viclory, is not known. The battle is mentioned by Bede, who calls the place Catgwaloph. Thefe inteftine wars lafted till the year 465, and the Britons were fo harraffed, that many of them abandoned their native country, and one party in particular, going on board a galley, failed to Germany, and rowing up the Rhine, landed at Catwich near Leyden, where they fettled by the fea-fide in an old Roman camp, to which they gave the name of Brittenburge. Kydwelly was poffeiTed for feme time by the fons or Keianus, a Scot, tiJl they were driven away by Kynedhav, a Britifh prince. Maurice of London then invaded thefe territories, and after a long and tedious war, made himfelf mafter of the old town of Kydwelly, which he fortified with walls and a caftle now decayed, being deferted by the inhabitants, 75 who, tempted by the convenience of an harbour, paffed the river, and built the new Kydwelly. When Maurice above-mentioned invaded this diftricl, Gwenlhian, the wife of prince GryfRth, a woman of invincible courage, endeavouring to reftore her hufband's declining ftate, entered the field and encountered him, where (he was flaiii, with her fon Morgan, and feveral other noblemen. About the year 1 130, a priory of Benedictine monks, fubordinate to the monaftery of Sherbourne in Dorfet- Ihire, was founded here by Roger bifhop of Sal ifbury : it was dedicated to St. Mary, and valued, upon thediflo- lution, at thirty-eight pounds per annum. Maurice of London, one of the twelve knights that came into Gla- morganfhire with Robert Fitz Hamon, and had for his fhare the caftle and manor of Ogmor j after a tedious war, as before noted, bec.ime mafter cr Kydwelly, and rebuilt the caftle. In the year 1OQ3, Kadogan ap Ble- thyn, who then ruled South Wales, delfroyed this, and all the caftles except two, that were in the land of Ca- dogan and Divet. In the year 1 190, Rees, prince of South Wales, rebuilt this caftle, and Rees, fon of Gruffyth ap Rees, demolifhed it ; but it was afterwards built again, and underwent various revolutions till it fell to the crown. It was granted by Henry VII. to Sir Rice ap Thomas, khight of the garter; but bein^ forfeited by his grandfon Rice Griffith, it was granted to Richard Vaughan, earl of Carbery, lord prefident of Wale:;. The ruins of this caftle are very large and magnificent, and plainly fticw what it has formerly been. Llangharn, Llanhern, or Talch am, the next town we vifited, ftands upon the bank of the Tave, near its influx into the fea, one hundred and ninety-four miles from London It is a tolerable well built town, has fome fhips belonging to it, and a fmall trade by fea Here was formerly a caftle, called Abercorran, which was one of thofe inhabited by the Flemings, but the time of its being built is uncertain ; however, it is well known, that Henry VII. granted it to Rice ap Thomas, knight of the garter : it was forfeited by his grandfon, Rhys Griffith, and was afterwards granted to John Perrot, lord lieutenant of Ireland, who being attainted, it came by grant from the crown to Sir Sackville Crow, who fold it to Sir John Powell, judge of the Common Pleas whofe heirs are the prefent poffdlbrs. The walls feem to be entire, except in a few places ; but no part of it is inhabited. This town has a good weekly market on Fridays, for corn, flefh and fifh; and one annual fair, held Decem- ber the tenth, for cattle, horfes, and pedlary. Below Talcharn, the river Taff, or Tave, falls into the fea. This river was formerly famous for the Ty dwyn Ar dav, or the White houfe on the river Taff; where Howell, a prince of Wales, in a full affemblyl abrogated the laws of his anceftors, and promulgated new ones ; after which a fmall monaftery, called Wit- land Abbey, for Ciftertian monks, was founded by Rhaefe, fon of Theodore, prince of South Wales, in the time of William the Conqueror, though fome afTert it was founded by Bernard bifhop of St. David's, in the year 1143, perhaps this prelate might have repaired it, and added to the endowment, becoming thereby in fome fort a fecond founder. It was dedicated to St. Mary, and valued upon the diffolution at one hundred and twenty-five pounds three fiiillings and fix-pence per annum. At Kilmaen Lhwyd, not far from hence, on the bor- ders of the county next Pembrokefhire, about the begin- ning of the laft century, was difcovered a confiderable quantity of Roman filver coins, but of a bafe alloy, and of all the emperors from the time of Commodus, who firft debafed the Roman filver, to the fifth tribune- fhip of Gordian the third. Many of thefe were found to be of great value among the collectors of coins and medals. Alfo near Kilmaen Lhwyd, at a place called Bronyfkawen, in the parifh of Lhan Boydy, is a large camp called y Gaer. In the entrance of it, which is four yards wide, were difcovered in the year 1292, two very rude leaden boxes, containing two hundred Roman filver coins, fome of the moft ancient found in Britain j they were buried very near the furface, . 4 B This 27S CAERMARTHENSHIRE. This camp is of an oval form, and about three hun- dred yards in circumference; the bank, or rampart near the entrance, is about three yards high, but in the other parts generally much lower. On each fide the camp is a barrow, or 'tumulus; the fmalleft is near it, but the other at the diilance of three hundred yards, and both hollow at the top. Near Lhan Boydy is a monument confiding of a rude ftone, about thirty feet in circumference, and three feet thick, fupported by four pillars, each about three feet high : it is called Gwal y Vilaft, or Bwrdth Arthur, but it does not appear by the word Arthur occurring in the name, that this monument has any relation to the famous Britifh king Arthur; the ignorant credulity of the vulgar has attributed eve r y object of antiquity which is great or extraordinary throughout Wales to that prince, and all with equal reafoh. Leaving this place, we purfued our journey to Caer- marthen, Carmarthen, or Cacrmardhin, fo called from 3 derivation of the Welfh word Caer-Vardkin. It is a very ancient town, fituated on a hill on the north fide of the river Towy, two hundred and twenty-eight miles from London. The river Towy is undoubtedly the Tabids of Ptolemy, and Caermarthen his Maridu- num. Maridunum is evidently derived from the Britifh Kaer-Vyrdhin by a change of the Vinto. M. Antoni- nus., who terminates his Itinerary at this place, calls it Muridunum. Caermarthen is the capital of the county, and was eredted into a borough the thirty-eighth year of the reign of king Henry VIII. and made a borough and county corporate in the reign of king James 1. under whofe charter it is governed, by a mayor, a recorder, two flierifrs, and fixteen aldermen, who, upon folemn occa- fions, all wear fcarlct gowns, and other enfigfis of ftate • and are attended by a fword-bcarer, cap of maintenance, and two mace-bearers. They hold a monthly court, and have the power of making bye-laws, in the fame manner as the city of London. This place was anci- ently efteemed the capital of Wales ; and when Wales was eredted by the crown of England into a principality for the king's eldeft fon, the courts of Chancery and Exchequer were fixed here, and continued till the jurif- didtion of the court and marches of Wales was taken away. This town is fituated in the beA: air and the moll: fer- tile foil in the county; and the people in and around it are reckoned the wealthiest and molt polite in all Wales. It is well built, very populous, and much frequented. It has now but one church, dedicated to St. Peter, which is a very large one, though it had formerly a chapel, called the Rood-church, dedicated to St. Mary, landing where is now St. Mary's ftreet ; and one called the King's free chapel, in the caftie. At the eaft end of the town, a priory for fix black canons was erected to the honour of St. John the Evangelift, before 1 148, of which the ruins are ftill vifible. There was alfo a houfc of grey friars, Cacrmaithen was formerly walled in, and had a firong cafile, the ruins of which are ftill vifible ; but foon after the Normans entered Wales, this town fell into their hands, and for a long time encountered with many diffi- culties, it having been often befieged, and twice burnt, fiiit by Grifryth ap Rees, or Rhyr, and then by Rhys, the find Gnityth's brother ; but the walls and c'aftle being afterwardj repaired by Gilbert, earl of Clare, it was freed from thofe misfortunes. Here is a fine large ftone bridge over the Towy, and a convenient quay for lading and unlading of goods, to which fhips of a hun- dred tons burthen come up. Within thefe few years this h*«,biren a place of confiderable trade; and bv the induftry of the inhabitants, it is now in a very flourifh- in: ir condition. Durinir. the winter fi'afon, here is o-ene- o o ' to rally a company of players in town, and here arebefuies frequent afivmblics, and other diverlions. Caermarthen is a town r.nd county incorporated, and is governed Ly a mayor and two fherifft, fixteen alder- men, cloalned on folcmn.occafiVns in fca'tler, a town- clerk, a fword-bearer, and twe fe jeants at mace. They had a new charter granted them-, with feme alterations, in 1765. Here are three weekly markets, cn Wednes- days, Fridays, and Saturdays ; and fix annual fairs, on June the third, July the tenth, Auguft the twelfth, September the ninth, October the ninth, and November the fourteenth, for cattle, horfes, and pedlars ware. About two miles to the eaft of Caermarthen is Aber- gwilly, a village fo called from its being near the place where the river Gwilly falls into the Towy. There are two fairs held here, on October the fecond, and on No- vember the twpnty-feventh, for cattle, horfes, and pedlars ware. At this place the church dedicated to St. Maurice was made collegiate by Thomas Beck, bifhop of St, David's, in the year j 287, for twenty-two prebendaries, four priefts, four choriflers and two clerks. Here afterwards were a precentor, a chancellor, and a treafurer ; and its revenue, at the difiblution, was valued at forty-two pounds psr an :um. At Lrusllwyn, a village about ten miles eaft of Caer- marthen, on the river Towy, are two fairs held annually, viz. on July the firft, and October the fifth, for cattle, horfes, and fheep. There was formerly a caftie belong- ing to this place, which was fituated oppofite to it on the north fide of the river. At Tallagh, or Tylo, about fix miles to the fouth of Caermarthen, there was a Premonftratenfian abbey, founded by Rhees, the fon of Gryffith, prince of South- Wales, before the year 1 197 : it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptift, and valued at the difiblution at one hundred and thirty-fix pounds nine (hillings and feven -pence per annum. About two miles fouth-weft of Caermarthen, on a lofty fituation, commanding an extenfive profpedt of the river Towy, ftan.ds Green Caftie. It is alfo called Caft!e-Mole, and is fuppofed to be that which is called by Dr. Powel, in his continuation of Lloyd's Hiftory of Cambria, Humfrey's Caftie. It is faid to be one of thofe built byUchtred, prince of Merionethfhire, in 1 138. To the eaft of Caermarthen lies Cantrebychan, which fignifies the leiTer hundred. In it are the ruins of Kaftelh-Karreg, once a large fort, fituated upon a fteep and almoft inacceffible mountain, near which are fome vaft caverns, by many fuppofed to have been copper mines wrought by the Romans. The place where the caverns are, is called Kaio, and has two fairs, namely, on the twenty-firft of Auguft, and the fixth of October > for black cattle, horfes, and pedlars ware. The only natural curiofity in the county is to be found at Kaftelh-Karreg, wfiich is a fountain or fpring, that conftantly ebbs and flows twice in twenty-four hours. In the parifh of Kaio were found two fepulchral ftone monuments, at a place called P:\nt y Polion, near Kaftelh- Karreg. One of thefe, we are informed by the learned annotator on Camden, lies flat on the ground, and is placed crofs a gutter. The infeription on it is read as follows : *' Servator Fidei Patrireque femper Amator, " hie Paulinus jacet Cultor pieutiflimus /Equi." This being the monument of one Paulinus, undoubt- edly occafioned the place to be called Pant y Polion. The other inferibed ftone, which feems to be of a later date, is about a yard in heighrh, and pitched on one end. The infeription is to be read downwards. On the north of Caermarthen is txtendec Cantrenawr, or the great hundred, which was formerly a retiring place of the Britons, -it being very woody and rocky, and full of uncouth ways, on account of the winding ot the hills. To the fouth of the fame town ftood the caftie of Laugharn already mentioned ; and alfo on the oppofite point, that of Llanfrepham on the rocks of the fea ; this laft is in a great meafure handing, and is feated on an high hill at the mouth bf the river Towy, com- manding the entrance thereof. It was built by the u oi of Uchtred, prince of Merionethfhire, in the year 113S. It was in pofTeffion afterwards of the Flemings and Normans, who inhabited the count:es of Pembroke and Caermarthen ; but Ladelh; fort or Gryffith ap Rhys, prince of South Walts, took it from them in the year 1 145, and kept it with a few men againft all the powers they could raife. It has fincc undergone many revolu- tions, till it fell to the crown. There 4 CAERMARTHENSHIRE. 2 79 There Is a rude ftone pillar about fix feet high, and !a foot and an half broad, ere£f.ed near the highway, in the parifh of Llan Newydh, or Llanegwad, not far from Caermarthen. On it is infcribed, in barbarous characters, " Severinini filii Severi." In the parifh of Hen-Lhan-Amgoed, fitiiated to the north-eaft of Kilmaen-Lhwyd, on the weftern borders of the county, in a field belonging to Parkeu, is another monument nearly refembling that laft mentioned : this lies flat on the ground, but probably once flood up- right ; if fo, the infcription fhould be read downwards as follows: " (Sepukbrum) Caii Menvendani filii " Barcuni." In the parifh of Tre'lech, about eight or nine miles north of Caermarthen, is a remarkable barrow, called Krig y Dyrn, fuppofed to fignify th» King's Barrow. It is compofed of an heap of ftones, about eighteen feet high, one hundred and fifty feet in circumference, and covered with turf : it rifes with an eafy afcent, and is hollow on the top, gently inclining from the circumference to the center, where there is a rude fiat ftone of an oval form, about nine feet long-, five broad, and a foot thick, covering a kind of a ftone cheft, confifting of fix more ftones. This barrow is fuppofed to have been the burying-place of fome Britifh prince of very great antiquity. At St. Clare, about five miles to the fouth-eaft of Whitland Abbey, and nine miles weft of Caermarthen, there was an alien priory, confifting of a prior and two Cluniac monks, fubordinate to St. Martin de Campis, in Paris. It was given by king Henry VI. to All Souls College, in Oxford. From Caermarthen we continued our journey north- weft, and tame next to Newcaftle in Emlvn, leated oh the fouth bank of the river Towy, over which there is a handfome bridge, one hundred and eighty -eight miles from London. It is but an indifferent place, but it had a handfome caftle,- which was deftroyed by fire in the civil wars : the old Britifh name is Dinas Emlyn, which fome imagine fignifies the city of JfLmi- lian. However, this is but a conjecture, for the name given to it by the Romans is uncertain, though fome think it to have been the Loventium of the Dimetae, mentioned by Ptolemy. It has a good weekly market on Fridays, for cattle, corn, and provifions ; and three annual fairs, viz. June the twenty-fecond, July the eighteenth, and November the twenty-fecond, for cattle, horfes, and fheep. Remarks oh the Sea-coast of Caermarthenfhire. The only coaft in this county forms a large bay, into which the Towy, and feveral other rivers, emptjr themfelves. There is depth of water fufficient for fhips of confiderable burthen to anchor in this bav, where they ride fafe from all winds, except fhofe from tha fouth-weft. At the mouth of the river Towy is a large bank of fand, fo that large fhips cannot enter that river, and are therefore deprived of all fheltec when ftorms blow between the fouth-weft and fouth. A'Iembers of Parliament for Caermarfhenihire. The county of Caermarthen fends two members to' parliament ; one knight of the fhire for the county, and one burgefs for the borough of Caermarthen. I i Sir CARDiG A [ 2*0 J CARDIGANSHIRE. >'f A H 1 S county derives its name from Cardigan, the X county town, and is bounded by part of Merioneth- ftiire and Montgomeryshire on the north ; by part of Pembrokefhire and Caermarthenftiire on the fouth ; by part of Radnorfhire and Brecknockfhire on the eaft, and by the Irifli fea on the weft. It extends in length from fouth-weft to north-eaft about forty miles ; from eaft to weft about eighteen miles, and .is about one hundred mi'es in circumference. It is divided into five hundreds, in which are fix market towns, feventy-feven parifhes, about three thou- fand one hundred and fixty houfes, and thirty-five thou- fand inhabitants. It lies in the province of Canterbury and diocefe of St. Davids. Under the Romans, this county was part of the diftrid inhabited by the Dimetae, already mentioned in our account of Caermarthenftiire. Some have been of opinion that the famous prince Caradlacus governed in thefc parts, but others doubt the certainty of this, as neither Tacitus nor any other ancient author mentions it. - Soon after the Normans had conquered this kingdom, they fitted out a navy, ravaged the fea-coafts of this county, and from the time of William Rufus got pof- feflion of moft of the towns, which they put into the hands of Kadugan ap Bledhin, a moft prudent Briton, who had great intereft throughout all Wales ; and was befides much in favour with the Englifh ; but by the indifcretion of his fon Owen, a lafh young man, who had infulted the Englifh and Flemings that had lately fettled there, the unhappy father was deprived of his in- heritance ; and with his fon, for whofe offence he fuf- fered, was obliged to abandon his county and fly to Ireland. Henry I. afterwards granted the county of Cardigan to Gilbert Clare, who fettled garrifons in it, and fortified feverai caftles ; but Kadugan, with his fon Owen being in a fhort time recalled, their lands were again reftored to them ; the fon however raifing frefh dillurbances, was flain by Girald, of Pembroke, whofe wife Neflra, Owen had carried off. His father was prifoner in England a confiderable time, but was at length asain reftored to his eftate ; foon after which he was° (tabbed by his nephew Madok. After this Roger de Clare obtained the poffeflion of Cardiganftiire from Henry II. but Richard, earl of Clare, his fon, being fiain in his way hither by Awland, Rhys, prince of South-Wales, made a great (laughter of the Englifh, and at length reduced them under his fubjeclion ; how- ever Cardiganshire fell afterwards by degrees into the hands of the Englifh, without further blood-ftied. RIVERS. The principal rivers of this county are theTeivy, the Rydal, and the iftwyth. The Teivy or Tave is a river of Caermarthenftiire, and has been defcribed among the rivers of that county. The Rydal rifes on the fouth-weft fide of Plyn Lym- mon mountain, upon the borders of Montgomery/hire, and running weft-fouth-weft, falls into the Irifli fea at Aberiftwyth, a market town. TheTftwyth rifes not far from the fpring of the Rydal, and running nearly the fame courfe, falls with it into the Irifh fea at Aberiftwyth. The lefs confiderable rivers of Cardiganftiire are, the Kerry, the Dettor, the Agran, the Arth, the Weray, and the Salek. Air, Soil, and Natural Productions. The air and foil of this county vary in different parts $ in the fouth and weft quarters of Cardiganftiire, which are more level than Wales is in general, the air is mild and temperate, and the foil fruitful ; but the north and eaft being a continued ridge of mountains, are bleak and barren when compared with the reft j yet even in the worft parts of the (hire, there is pafture in plenty for breeding large quantities of ftieep and black cattle, of which there are fuch numbers that this country is called the nuifery of cattle for all England fouth of Trent. It abounds in river and fea fifti of all kinds, and the Trivy is famous for great plenty of excellent falmon. Coals and other fuel are fc&rce ; but in the north paits »f the county, particularly about Aberiftwith, feverai rich lead mines were difcovered in the latter end of the laft: century, fome of which yield filver, and the ore often appears above ground. Indeed fome of the ore has been fo rich in filver as to produce feventy or eighty ounces in a ton of metal. A company of Germans, in queen Elizabeth's time, worked in thefe mines to their great advantage; Sir Hugh Middleton alfo in the reign of James I. matie a vaft fortune here, which he afterwards fpent in bring- ing the New River water to London. He cleared two thoufand pounds a month for fome years, out of one filver mine j and after him Mr. Bufhel gained an im- menfe fum of this and other mines in this county. For this reafon, Charles I. allowed him to fet up a mint in the caftle of Aberyftwith for the convenience of paying his workmen ; he alfo made him governor of the ifle or Lundy to fecure his (hipping. Mr. Bufhel, out of the profit of tfeefe mines, it is laid, made the fame king a prefent of a regiment of horfe in the civil wars, cloathed the king's whole army, and lent him forty-thoufand pounds. Some time after this, the company of mine adventures laid out confiderable fums of money in work- ing thefe mines, and met with great fuccefs, till they difagreed among themfelves, which proved not only a great hindrance to the works of this county, but to mining in general. There does not appear to be any manufacture in this county. Market Towns. The market towns are Lampeter, Tregaron, Llan- badarnvawr, Aberithwyth, Lhannarth, and Cardigan. We entered this county by croffing the river Tivy, near Newcaftie, and continued our journey to Lampeter, Llanbedor St. Peter, or Pont-Steffan. It is a fmall town, fituated in a plain on the northern bank of the Teivy, over which it has a bridge leading to Caermar- thenfhire, one hundred and feventy-five miles from London. Though this place has not above fifty houfes in it, yet it is governed by a portreeve, fteward, two conftables, and other officers. Here is a pretty good church, which ftands on a hill, and feverai good inns for the accommodation of travellers. At this town the river runs weft, and becomes much broader j but at length it falls over a fteep precipice near Lhan Dugwydh, and makes the famous falmon leap that is the wonderjof thefe parts. Here people often ftand admiring the ftrength and flight the fifh ufe to get up this cataracl. It has been commonly laid, that there were a great number of beavers in this river ; and fome modern authors feem to favour the opinion, and tell us they are now fucceeded by otters. But it is very plain, that otters CARDIGANSHIRE. Former times were cerlainly miftaken for beavers ; and particularly Belon, and other writers of natural hiftory, have confounded the one with the other; for which reafon, the members of the royal academy at Paris have fdken great pains to {hew the proper and true diftinclions between the beaver and the otter. Hence we have not the leaft reafon to doubt, but that Geraldus miftook one animal for the other. Here is a weekly market on Tuefdays, which is very confiderable ; and fix annual fair?, viz. Whitfun-Wed- nefday, July the tenth, firft Monday in Auguft, firft Monday in September, October the nineteenth, and the firft Monday in November, all for cattle, horfes, fheep, pigs, and pedlars ware. On the top of a mountain a mile or two north-eaft of Llanbedor, Hands a ftone, about fixteen feet high, three broad, and two thick, called Hyrvacn-gwydhog, which in Englifh fignifies the remarkable Coloflus. This ftone is now a boundary between this county and Caermarthenfhire. From Llanbedor we paflbd to Tregaron, fuuated on the bank of the Towy, one hundred and feventy-one miles from London. It is governed by a mayor, but is remarkable for nothing except having a fine church, a weekly market on TucfJays, and an annual fair held March the fifth, for horfes, fwine, ftockings, and pedlars ware. About three miles to the fo nth ward of Tregaron, is a village called Lhan Dhewi Brevi. A horn of an ox is here preferved in the church, of fo extraordinary a fize, that at the root it is feventeen inches in circum- ference, it is as heavy as ftone, feemingly petrified, and is faid to have been preferved in the church ever fince the time of St. David, who lived in the beginning of the fixth century. This horn, if it be. one, is full of large cells and holes. The church is dedicated to St. David, bifhop of Menevia j and at this place, Thomas Beck, bifliop of St. David, founded a college, dedicated to St. David, in the year i j 87, for a precentor and twelve prebendaries; its value at the diflblution w. s thirty-eight pounds eleven (hillings per annum. A fynod was held at this place in 522, and at a full meeting St. David oppofed the opinions of the Pelagians. St. Dubricius, archbifliop of Caer Lheion, having aflifted at the fynod, refigned his fee to Sr. David, and betook himfelf to Ynys Eulhi (Bardfey ifland) there to fpend the remainder of his life in devotion; There have formerly been dug up feveral tomb-ftones, with Roman inferiptions, at Lhan Dhewi Brrvi, fome of which confift wholly of unintelligible abbreviations ; but one in a very uncouth character, upon a fione now to be feen over the chancel door of the church, is read as follows : Hie Jacet Idn'ert Filius Jacobi Qui Occisus •Fuit Propter Predam Sakcti Dawid. BefiJes the inferiptions of the Romans, their coins have alfo fometimes been found here, and they fre- quently dig up bricks, and large free-ftone neatly wrought; for which reafons' Dr. Gibfon thinks proper here to fix Lovantinum, or Levantinum, which Ptolemy pbices in the country of the Dimetse; Mr. Horfeley alfo joins with him in Opinion. Before we quit this article, we muft obferve, that at Lhan Dhewi Brevi, on a fione near the church door, on the outfide, is an old infeription, which feems to confift wholly of abbreviations ; but what it fignifics we pre- tend not any more than others to determine. Leaving Tregaron, we continued our tour towards Aherrdhvyth, and in our way vifited Strat flour Abbey, fuuated On the Teivy, about feven miles north-eaft from Tregaron. This was formerly a place of great note, and called in Latin Strata Florida. Here Rhcl'us, prince of South Wales, built, in the year 1164, a O'ftertian abbey, and filled it with monks of the order of St. Benedict. During the Wei (hi waii, it was burnt by Edward I. about the year 1 298 ; but loon afterwards rebuilt by that monarch. Several of the Welfh princes were buried here, and here the records of their fuc- ceflions and adis, from the year 1156 to 1270, were depofued. It continued in a very flourifliing condition 76 till the diflblution, when the annual revenues amounted to one hundred and eighteen pounds feventeen (hillings and three-pence. About eight miles to the north-weft of this abbey is a village called Lhanelar, where there was a Ciftertian nunnery, which was a cell to Stratflour abbey, above; defcribed. It fubfifted till the diflblution, when the annual revenues amounted to fifty-feven pounds five (hillings and four-pence. Llanbadam Vawr, which we now vifited, lies about two miles eaft of Aberyftwith, and one hundred and ninety-feven from London. It is a place of great antiquity, though now much decayed, lituated on the river Rheidal, and is generally thought to be the Mauri- tanea, where a monaftery was built in the beginning of the fixth century by St. Paterruis, who eftablifhed an epifcopal fee here, afterwards united to St. David's. The church, which is an handfome building, is thought to have been given to St. Peter's church at Gloucefter, about the year jiii, but it was in fucceeding times appropriated to the abbey of ValeRcyal in Chelhire. The town is governed by a portieve, has a fmall in- different harbour for fmall veflels, and a market on I uefdays, but no annual fain Aberriftwy.h is fituated at the mouth of the Iflwyth, one hundred and ninety-nine miles from London. It is an incorporated town governed by a mayor, recorder, and other officers ; is pretty large, rich, and populous ; but has no parifn-church, being only a paxt of the parifh of Llanbadarn Vawr, above defcribed. Aberriflwyth was formerly encompafled by a wall, and defended by a caflle fituated on an eminence at the entrance of the river: the ruins of which are ftill con- fiderable. This caftle, formerly a place of great ftrength, was built by Gilbert Strongbow, fon of Richard de Clare, in the reign of king Henry I. It afterwards be- longed to Cadwalader, fon of Griffith ap Conan, who had (lain Anarawd, prince of South-Wales ; upon which Owen Gwineth, prince of North-Wales, burnt it in the year 1142, to revenge his brother's death. There was a garrifon kept here for fome time after the death of king Charles I. which the country finding to be an incumbrance, had recourfe to arms to fubdue it ; and after a tedious fuge, became maflers of it. Here a mint was eflabiifhed by licence from Charles I. for the con- venience of paying the miners. One of the greateft fifheries in Wales is carried on in this place, but at Jeaft one half of the feafbn is loft for want of a good harbour ; for Aberyftwith bar is often fo choaked up, that the finalleft veflels can neither pafs nor repafs, and all the veflels in the harbour are obliged 10 lie there, till a land flood from the rivers Yftuith. and Rheidal fets them at liberty. The chief commo- dities of this place are herrings and other.fifti : lead ore, wood, limber, and oak bark. In the bay are employed, during the herring filhery, fifty-nine fmall (loops out of Aberyftwith, and thirty-eight more from the neighbour- ing places. This fifhery generally begins in September, and continues three or four months. The reft of the year they are employed on the coaft and Irifh trade ; ami fome few larger floops carry lead ore, timber, and bark, On the fifth of October, in the year 1745, forty-feven fifhmg-boats of about twelve tons each, which were as many as could get out that tide, took among them two thouiand one hunJrrd and fixty maces of herrings, which at one hundred and twenty-fix to the hundred, and five of thole hundreds to the mace, amount to one hundred and thirty-fix thoufand and eighty : now if nine of thefe hundreds be allowed to a barrel of thirty- two gallons, they would make one thoufand one hundred and eleven barrels, all taken in one night. This would often be the cafe, if there were a convenient harhour ; but as it is, it fupplies the middle of England with frefli herrings. During the herring fifliery, they have fuch a glut of cod, whitings, pollacks, rays, and other fifli, that they value them very little. In this bay, at Morfuback, in the year 1732, a (lioal of one hundred and thirteen porpufTes, or bottle-nofcs, were ftranded on the rocks, and left a prey to the country people, who made a confiderabla profit by the 4- C oij if 2 CARDIGANSHIRE. oil they extracted from the blubber. Thelargeftof thefe fifh was about fifteen feet long, and had a flug of lead in its head, h iving been wounded by a gun, but not mortally. - This was fuppofed to have been the caufe why he was purfucd by the reft; who hunted him i'o eagerly, that they run themfelves upon the rocks. For it is known that when any of thefe fifh are wounded, the reft of the fhoal will fall upon, and devour them. Here are aifo plenty of monk-fifh, which grow to the fize of a man, and frequently raife their heads above the furface of the water: feme of them weigh one hundred and fixty pounds. Their fkins are very rough, and ufed in polifhing wood and ivory. Some call it the an- gel fifh, from the foremoft fins refembling wings. Blue (harks are likewife found in this bay ; but not of that voracious nature as thefe in the fouthern climates, as they do no harm in thefe feas, except eating great quantities of fifh. Abern'ftwyth has alfo a very confiderable trade in lead, there being feveral confiderable mines of that metal in the neighbourhood ; and a very large market on Mondays for corn, wool, chcefe, Sec. and feveral forts of pro- vifions. At Llanvihangle geneu'r glyn, not far from Aberrift- wyth, we find a monument called Gwely Taleifin which fhould feem, frr.m its name, to be the grave of the cele- brated poet Taleifin ben Bierdh, who fiourifhed about the year 540. It is four fiet long and three broad, and is compofed of four ftones, that is one at each end, and two fide ftones, whereof the higheft is about a foot above ground ; we are however more inclined to think, that this, and all others of the like kind, are rather old heathen (perhaps fepulchral) monuments, and ftill more ancient than the the time of Taleifin. From Aberriftwyth we pafTed on to Lanarth, a fmall town, one hundred and ninety-five miles from London. It h.ss nothing remarkable except a weekly market on Tuefday, and an annual fair on the twenty-fecond of September, for black cattle, horfes, &c. After viewing the town and country in the neighbour- hood of Lhnarth, we palfcd on to Cardigan, the principal town in the county. It ftands on the mouth of the river Teivy, near the extremity of the county, one hundred and-ninety eight miles from London. Here is a good ftone bridge over that river, which is here navigable for fmall vefTels, to the quays- A confiderable trade is car- ried on from this port, cfpecially to Ireland, fifty thou- fand bufhels of corn being annually (hipped here. Cardigan is governed by a mayor, a recorder, thirteen aldermen, am! thirteen common council men, of which the mayor is always one. Here are ftill to be feen the ruins of a large caftle built about the year 1 160, by Gilbert de Clare ; but was afterwards dismantled by Rces ap GryfFyth. It ftands on the ftecp bank of the river Teivi. Here was alfo a priory a black monks, dedicated to St: Mary, and fubordi- nate to the abbey ofChertfey in Surry. At the difiblution the annual revenues amounted to thirteen-pounds four ihillings and nine-pence. Cardigan fends one member to pailiament, has two weekly markets, on Tuefdays and Saturdays, and four annual fairs, viz. February thirteen, April the fixth, September the eighth, and December the nineteenth, for malt, hoifes, black cattle, and pedlars ware. Near this town the Welfh obtained, in the year 1 136, a complete victory over the Englifh, commanded by Ranulph, earl of Chefttr; above three thoufand being flail) on the fpot, and a confiderable number drowned n the river by the fall of the bridge. In this neighbourhood is Lhcch y gowres, that is, the {lone of a gk-antic woman, which is exceeding lar^e, and placed on four very large pillars or fupportcrs, about the height of five or fix feet. Befidcs thefe, there are two others pitched on one end under the top ftone, but much lower, infomuch, that they bear no part of the weight. There are aifo three ftones, two of which are large, lying on the ground at each end of the monument. At fome diftance is another ridge ftone, which has pro- bably fome relation to it. This monument ftands on an eminence in a fmall open field. 2 About a mile to the eaft of Cardigan lies Llan Gaed- mor in which parifh is an ancient monument, which confifts of a ftone of a prodigious fize, half a yard thick and eight or nine yards in circumference. It is placed inclining; for one fide of it is on the ground, and the other is lupported by a pillar of about three feet high. There is another monument in Glamorganfhire fome- what like this, but much longer. Near this monument is another of the fame kind, but much lefs and lower; there are five beds of rude ftones fcarce two yards long^ pitched on the ground, as alfo a circular area of the fame fort of ftones, whofe diameter is about four yards ; but moft of the ftones in this circle are now fallen. About fix yards from it lies a ftone on the ground and another beyond that at the fame diftance, which doubtlefs be- longed to it. Meinu Kyvrivol, or the numerary ftones, near Neuodh, in the neighbourhood of Cardigan, feem to be the remains of fome barbarous monument. They are nineteen in number, lie confufedly on the ground, and have their names from the vulgar, who cannot eafily count them. In the parifh of Penbryn, on the fea-fhore, about feven miles north-eaft of Cardigan, a Britifh gold coin about the weight of a guinea was found by a peafant. A fufficient proof that the Britons had gold coins of their own before the Roman conqueft ; as the infeription on it is very different from thofe of the Roman, and indeed from all other coins. Near the church in the fame parifh, there was found fome years fince, a large rude ftone, as hard as marble, with an infeription ; but the import of it is not known. The ftone ftill lies on the ground near the fpot where it was found : it was formerly furrounded with a large heap of ftones. Remarks on the Sea-coasts of Cardiganfhire. The bay of Cardigan, which is the mouth of the Teivi, and extends to Barfey ifland, in Cacrnarvonfhire,. is near forty miles from one cape to the other ; and af- fords very good fhelter for (hips in eafterly winds. The water is from feven to twenty-five fathoms deep. But there is no harbour in the whole bay capable of receiving fhips of any confiderable burden ; fo that if the wind fhould fhift fuddenly to the weftward, and blow hard, it would be difficult for them to weather either of the capes if they anchored in the bottom of the bay. There are indeed feveral fide harbours, where fmall vefTels may find fhelter. The firft, reckoning from Cardigan to the northward, is called Llanranok ; and lies very convenient for northerly and north-weft winds ; but there is not above eight feet water on the bar. The next is King's Capel, where there is about nine feet water. About fix miles to the north-eaft of King's Capel is Aberarthe, where there is more water within the harbour than in either of the former; but the water on the bar before the harbour's mouth is often fo fhallow, that vefTels can- not pafs in, if they draw' above four or five feet water. A ledge of rocks lies to the fouthward, and another to the northward of the harbour's mouth. Llanrufted about five miles to the north-eaft of the former, labours under neatly the fame difficulty. The bar is not indeed fo fubjecT: to chanes, but the water is not fo deep here as at Aberarthe. Abei ithwyth harbour would afford fhelter, were the depth of water always the fame ; but the beach is often thrown up fo high on the bar, that even the fmalleft vefTels cannot enter. Aberdovie, has but litrle water on the bar ; but it is not fo fubjecl to fhift. Bar- mouth is alfo fubpet. to the fame difficulty; but if the wind be at fou.h, fhips may find fhelter in a fmall bay before the mouth of the harbour. At a fmall diftance from the fhore at Sarnaburg point, between the harbours of Aberdovie and Barmouth, lies a ledge of rocks, called Clarie, extending about a mile and a half from the land. Members of Parliament for Cardiganfhire. The county of Cardigan fends two members to parlia- ment ; one knight of the fhire for the county ; and one burgefs fur the borough of Cardigan. PEMBROKE- C 283 ] PEMBROKESHIRE. THIS county, which is the fouth-weft extremity of Wales, derives its name from Pembroke, the county, and is bounded on the eaff by Caermarthenfhire, on the north-eaft by Cardiganfhire, and on all other fides by the Irifh fea. It extends in length from north to (0x1th twenty-fix miles, from eaft to weft twenty, and is about ninety-three in circumference. It is divided into feven hundreds, in which are one city, eight market- towns, one hundred and forty-five parifhes, about four thoufand three hundred houfes, and twenty-five thoufand nine hundred inhabitants. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefeofSt. David's. Under the Romans, this county was part of the ter- ritories of the Dimetas, a particular account of whom, has been given in our defcription of Caermarthen- fhire. A confiderable tradl: of Pembrokefhire, confiding of the county, which lies weft of Milford-Haven, and between that bay and St. George's channel, is called by the Welch, Rho?, which fignifies a green field. In this diftricl: a colonv of Flemings, fettled by the permif- fion of Henry I. at the time when the fea had broke through the dykes of their own country, and had done incredible damage. This diftricl: was, in Camden's time, called Little England, beyond Wales ; and Gi- raldus, fpeaking of the Flemifh fettled here, fays, they are a ftout refolute nation, very ofFenfive to the Welch by their frequent fkirmifhes; and obferves, that they were much inured to the cloathing trade, and to mer- chandize, and ready to increale their ftcck by any labour and hazard, both by fea and land. The Fleming's way, or road, a work performed by them, may be ftill feen extended through a long traft of ground. The Welch, who were not well pleafed with this colony, frequently attempted to drive them out, by ravaging and fpoiling their borders, but without fuccefs. The annotator upon Camden informs us, that all Wales, with their united force, have feveral times invaded their country, but the Flemings maintained their ground, and Rhos is ftill in- habited by their defcendants, who may ftill be diftinguifh- ed by their fpeech and cuftoms. R I V E R S. The principal rivers of this county are the Tcivy, the Clethy and the Dougledye. The Teivy, which is a river of Caermarthenfhire, has already been defcribed among the rivers of that county. The Clethy rifes at the foot of a hill in this county, called Vrennybawr, fome miles fouth-eaft of Newport, and running fouth, falls into the mouth of the Dougle- dye, near its conflux with the bay of the fea, called by the Fnglifh Milford-Haven, but by the Welch Aber- dau Gledheu, or the Haven with two fwords. The name of Dougledye is a corruption of the origi- nal Britifh words Dau Gledheu, or two fwords. This river rifes to the* fouth of Fifgard, and running fouth- eaft and fouth, pafies by Haverford-Weft, and falls with the river Clethy into Milford Haven. ■ The lefs confiderable rivers are the Gwaine, the Biran, the Kiog, the Nevern, and the Radford. Air, Soil, and Natural Productions. The air of Pembrokefhire is efteemed very falubrious, and the foil is fertile, for here are but few mountains, and thefe, whish are chiefly i'eated in the north-eaft part of the county, yield good pafture for cattle and Iheep : towards the fea-coaft, the land extends into rich mea- dows and corn-fields. The country abounds with horned cattle, fheep, goats, and wild fowl of various kinds, fome of which are feldom feen in any other part of Britain, Thefe are migratory fea-birds, that breed in the ifle of Ramfey, and the adjoining rocks, called the Bifhop and his Clerks. Thither yearly refort, about the beginning of April, fuch flocks of birds of feveral forts, as appear incredible to thofe who have not feen them. They come to thefe rocks in the night-time, and leave them alfo in the night ; for in the evening the rocks fhall be covered with them, and the next morning not a bird is to be feen. In the fame manner not a fingle bird fhall ap- pear in the evening, and the next morning, the rocks fhail be covered with them. They alfo commonly make a vifit about Chriftmas, ftaying a week or longer, and then take their leave till breeding-time. Among thefe birds are the eligug, razor-bill, puffing and harry-bird. The eligug lays but one egg, which, as well as thofe of the puffin and razor bill, is as big as a duck's, but longer and fmaller at one end. She never leaves this egg tiil it is hatched, nor then till the young one is able to follow her, and fhe is all this time fed by the male. This and the razor-bill, breed upon the bare rocks, without any fort of neft. The puffin and the harry-bird breed in holes, and commonly in thofe of the rabbits ; but fometimes they dig holes with their beaks. The harry-birds are never feen on land, but when taken. All the four kinds cannot raife themfelves to fly away when they are on land, and therefore they creep or wad- dle to the clifts, and throwing themfelves off, take wing. The eligug is the fame bird, which they call in Cornwall a Kiddaw, and in Yorkfhire a Skout. The razor-bill is the merre of Cornwall. The puffin is the artick duck of Clufius, and the harry-bird the fhire- water of Sir Thomas Brown. This county is well fupplied with fifh of all kinds; and among the rocks, upon fome part of this coaft, par- ticularly near St. David's, they gather in the fpring a kind of alga, or fea-weed, called laver, of which they make a fort of food, called in Welch Lhavan, and in Englifh Black Butter. Having wafhed it clean, they lay it to fweat between two flat ftones, then fhred it final], and knead it well, like dough for bread, and afterwards make it up into great balls or rolls, which fome eat raw, and others fry with oat-meal and butter. It is accounted excellent againft all diftempers of the liver and fpleen, and fome affirm, that they have been relieved by it in the fharpeft fits of the ftone. Great quantity of pit-coal is found here, and culm; but there does not appear to beany manufacture. City W Market Towns. ^ The city is St. David's, and the market towns are, Fifhgard, Haverford-weft, Killgarring, Newport, Pem- broke, Tenby, Whifton, and Narberth. We entered this county by croffing the bridge at Car- digan and firft vifited Kilgarring, or Kilgaran, a long town confifting chiefly of one ftreet, fituated upon the north bank of the Teivy, one hundred and eighty-nine miles from London ; and governed by a portreave and bailiff's. Here are the ruins of a caftle, faid to have been erected by Gilbert Strongbow, earl of Strygyl ; but others think its foundation was laid by Roger de Montgomery. This, as well as many other caftles, has undergone great revolutions, 284 PEMBROKESHIRE, revolutions, fuch ss being razed, burnt and rebuilt, during intcftine broils, as well as in the wars with the Englifh. The ruins fiicw, that it has formerly been a ftrong place, fome of the walls being {till (landing. It is at prefent in the pofleflion of the family of the Prices. Here is a hand fome church, and a good harbour for boats ; a falmcn fifhery, and alfo a remarkable falmon- ]cap at a cataract in the river. The falmon, in its way up the river from the fea, no fooner reaches the cataract, than it forms into a curve, by bending its tail to its niouth ; and fometimes, in order to mount with the greater velocity, holds its tail between its teeth, then iuddenly difengaging itfclf, fprings upjhe precipice. This town has a weekly market on Wedneldays, and two annual fairs, viz. Auguft the twenty-firft, and November the twelfth. The laft of thefe is a very con- siderable one for cattle, borles, and pedlary. From hence we continued our journey to Newport, called in Welfh Trevdraeth, that is, the town in the fand. It is fituate 4 d at the mouth of the rh cr Nevern, which falls into the bay of Newport two hundred mile.-, from London. This town was built by Martin de Tours, whofe pofterity made it a corporation, governed by a portreave and bailiff". They alfo built a caftle above the town, which was their chief feat, in the year J 215. It was afterwaids in a manner demolifhed by Llewellyn, prince of South-Wales, it being then pofTefled by the Flemings. The ruins of this caftle are ftill vifible. The town of Newport is large, but the buildings are mean ; it has, however, a handfome church, and the inhabitants have fome trade to Ireland : nolwilhftandmg which, it is a poor place, chiefly fupported by psffengers to and from Ireland. In the bay is a quarry of flatcs, which' fupplies all this coaft, and not far from thence is a vein of all urn earth. Here is a weekly market on Saturdays, and an annual fair on the twenty-feventh of June, for cattle, horfes, and fheep. In this town was anciently a houfe of Auguftine friars. At Nevern, near Newport, is a rude ftone in the church- yard, pitched upon one end, and tibout fix feet high, on which is an inlcription, fuppofed to refer to a Iloman lbldier, and is thus read, vitelliani emeriti, On the fouth fide of the fame church-yard, is erected a very handfome pillar, like the fhaft or upright team of a crofs. It is of a quadrangular form, about two feet broad, eighteen inches thick, and thirteen feet high, neatly carved on all fides with certain endlefs knots, about thirty-one in number, and all of them different. The top is covered with a crofs {tone, below which is a crofs carved on the eaft and weft fides ; and about the middle are fome uncouth letters, which are perhaps the initials of the names of thofe perfons who erected the crofs. Near Pentere Evau, in Nevern parifh, arc feveral rude ftones, placed upon one end in a circular order. In the midft of the circle, which is a hundred and fifty feet in circumference, is a rude {tone of a prodigious iizc, it being about eighteen feet in height, nine in breadth, and three feet thick, fupported on three ftone pillars about eight feet high, with five others, which feem at prefent of no ufe, they being too fhort to bear any part of the weight of the top-ftone. A part of this ftone, above ten feet long and five broad, is broken off, and feems to be more than twenty oxen can draw. The ground beneath is paved with flag-ftones. This is called by the Welfh Y Gromlech, which fignifies bowing to a ftone ; whence it has been concluded, that this" was a place of worfhip, as were all the other circular ftones of the fame kind in Great-Britain and Ireland. This has been more particularly proved, with refpect to the fione circles in Cornwall, In Nevern parifh there is another monument, com- monly called Lhech-y-drybedh, that is, the Tripod, and fome name it the Altar-ftone. It is fomewhat of an oval form, and about/ twelve yards in circumference, placed on four ftones, one of which is only two feet high, and confequently bears no part of the weight. At the fouth end, it is about four feet and a hair in thickuefs, but grows gradually thinner at the other end. At this end there is a furrow, which might ferve 1$ carry off any liquid that fliould run down. Six miles north-eaft of Newport is St, Dogmael's, 3 village on a promontory, which forms the rnoft northern part of this county, and is wafhed on one fide by St, George's Channel, and on the other by the mouth of the Teivy. Here was a priory of Benedictine monks, feated by thatriv r, in a vale encompafl'ed with hills, founded by Martin de Tuiribus, a Norman, who firft cr.quered the land about it, called Karnes, or Kcmifh. Robert, the Ion of this Martin, endowed it with lands, vvnich were confirmed to the monks by king Henry L At the reformation, king Henry VIII. granted it to one Bra.dfllfw, Rkrving a yearly rent to himfelf and his fucvuT, 1, and in this family it remained till the year 1640, when it was fold to Djvid Parry of Naiodd Tre- fa.wr, Efq; and was lately in the pofleflion of Mrs. Anns Parry. We continued our journey from Newport to Fifhgard, or Fifcard, iituated on a itcep cliff on the fea-fhore, one hundred and ninety -nine miles from London, It derives its Englifh name from a fifhery, probably of Herrings, at this place y but it is called by the Welfh Aber Gwaine, or the mouth of the Gwaine, from its fituation at the influx of the river Gwaine, into the fea, which here forms a fpacious bay. It is governed by a major, a bailiff, and other officers; and here veflels may lie fafely in five or fix fathoms water, if they have good tackle, "for the ground is a ftrong blue day and land ; but when the winds are northerly, they muft lie clofe in ftiore. The inhabitants have a good trade in herrings, and annually cure, between Fifcard and Newport, above a thoufand barrels of them. The adjacent country abounds in corn, and the town, which fends one member to parliament, has a weekly markei on Fridays, but no fairs. From hence we proceeded to St. David's, which has the title of a city, on account of its being the fee of a- bifhop, though it is only a poor village. It is fituated about a mile from the extremity of a large naked pro- montory, which projects with a very high front into the Irifti fea. It is fuppofed to have been a Roman town, and the Oclapitarum mentioned by Ptolemy, after which it obtained the name of Mcnevia. Here St. Patrick is faid to have founded a monaftery, and to have dedicated it to St. Andrew, about the year 470, Hither St. David tranflated the archbifhopric of Wale* from Caerleon, about the year 577, and here he built a cathedral, and became its firft archbifhop. After his death it was dedicated to him, and the city alfo took his name. This fee enjoyed the archbiihoprick til! about the year 930, when archbifhop Sampfon with- drawing from his province on account of a peftilential difeafe which then raged here, carried the pall with him to Dole in Brittainy : yet after this the archbifhops of this fee are faid to have confecrated the Welfh bifhops, and to have been primates of Wales, till the reign of king Henry I. when Bernard, a Norman, being made archbifhop, profefl'ed fubjection to the archbifhop o5 Canterbury, as his metropolitan. At the fuppreflion, this bifhoprick was valued at four hundred and twenty- fix pounds two fhiliings and a penny per annum. The cathedral and palace were feated within a mile of the fea, and within view (in clear weather) of the Irifti hills. They are inclofed with a wall of ftone one thoufand one hundred yards in circumference. In this clofc {lands the cathedral, the palace, and the houfes of the digni- taries, fome of which are habitable, and others in ruins,- The entrance is by four gates, the principal of which leads from the town. In this gate the bifhops formerly held their courts. The old church was taken down, and the prefent cathedral (dedicated to St. Andrew and St. David) was begun by bifhop Peter de Lein in 1189, and compleated by his fucceflbrs. It is a venerable ftructure three hundred feet in length ; the diftance from, the weft door to the entrance of the choir is a hundred and twenty-four feet; from the choir to the altar is eighty feet ; the breadth of the body of the fide ifles is feventy-two feet, that of the weft front is fevenry-fix feet, and the length of the great crofs-ifle, from north 5 tG P E M B R O K E S H I R £. to fouth, is a hundred and thirty feet ; the height of the middle ifle to the vaulting is fifty-four feet; and over the middle of the church is a tower a hundred and twenty- feven feet high. The weft end of the church is in tolerable repair, but. the eaft end has fufFered greatly from time and nec-letl, the roof having fallen in. The bifhop's palace is now a large magnificent piece of rums, of which only the walls are {landing. It was built by bifhop Henry Gower, about the year 1335, and had a hall eighty-eight feet long and thirty broad, with an- other fifty-eight feet long and twenty-three broad, and the apartments were proportionably grand and noble. There is no dean belonging to the cathedral of this place ; but here is a precentor, who has the power of a dean, a chancellor, a treafurer, four archdeacons, nine- teen prebendaries, eight vicars choral, four chorifttrs, and other officers. St. David's was anciently a confiderable city, cn- compafied with walls, which are now demolifhed ; but from its wild and bleak fituation, with the barren- nefs of the country near it, has become fo defertcd, that it has neither market nor fair. ' In 1369, John, duke of Lancafler, Blanch his wife, and Adam fJutton, bifhop of St. David's, founded here a college for a mailer and (even priefts, which was dedicated to St. Mary, and endowed, at the diflblution, with the annual revenue of one hundred and eleven pounds fixteen {hillings and four-pence. On a clifF which hangs over the fea, about the diftance of half a mile from St. David's, is a Hone fo large, that it is faid a hundred oxen could not drag it away; it is called by the Welfti Y Maen Sigl, or the Rocking- flone, from its having been mounted upon other ftones about three feet high, and placed in fupb an equilibrium, that a man might move it with one finger from fide to fide ; but the parliament foldiers, in the civil wars under Charles I. confidering this ftone as an objecl: of fuper- ftition, deftroyed its equipoife, and rendered it im- moveable. At a place anciently called Vallis Rofina, fuppofed to be fituated nearMenevia, St. David, foon after the year 519, built a monaftery for monks, whom he required to fupport themfelves with the labour of their hands, and yet to fpend a confiderable part of every day in prayer, reading and meditation. Haverford, or Haverford-Weft, the next town we entered, is a neat, well built, populous place, fituated on the fide of a hill, which forms a part of the weft bank of the river Dongledye, two hundred and fifcy-four miles from London. It is an incorporated town and county of itfelf, governed by a mayor, fherifF, town- clerk, two bailiffs, ferjeants at mace, and other officers. The mayor of the town is admiral, coroner, efcheator, and clerk of the markets, within its precincts. The houfes are well built and well inhabited, and the people enjoy a good trade. Here the aflizes are held, and the county-jail kept. The town enjoys feveral privileges, and has its own courts. There are three parifh churches within the town, and one in the fuburbs. St. Marv's church in the town is a very neat building, with a curious fpire. Here is alfo a commodious quay for fhips of burthen, a cuflom-houfe, and a fine ftone bridge over the Douglcdye, with a good free-fchool, a charity-fchoof for boys and girls, and an alms-houfe. It is a rich trading place, and the town and neighbourhood abound with gentry, who render it -one of the politeft places in Wales. It was formerly fortified with a rampart and a raffle, fuppofed to have been built by Gilbert earl of Clare : this caftle had an outer gate, with two portcul- lift-s. and an inward gate: the walls were fortified with feveral towers, and it was one of thofe poffeffed by the Flemings, when they firft came into Dyvet, or Pem- brokefhire; but the fortifications were demolifhed in the civil wars under Charjes I. Here was alfo a priory of Black canons, founded by Robert de Haverford, who gave to it feveral churches and tythes in his barony of Haverford, all which king Edward III. confirmed to ihem. About feventy yeais ago an effigy was dug up, which feemed to represent a biftiop, and is fuppofed to be that of David Cherburv, biflaop of Dromote in Ire- - 7& land, and archdeacon of Brecknock, who, by his la ft will, dated the ninth of November, 1426, ordered that he fliould be internid here, and left a legacy towaiJi rebuilding the cloyfters of this priory. This town fends one member to parliament, has two weekly markets, held on Tuefdays and Saturdays, for cattle and provifions ; and fix annual fairs, viz. May the twelfth, June the twelfth, July the eighteenth, September the fouith, September the twenty-foui th, and Ocfoher the eighteenth, all for horfes, . cattle*,; and {beep. Without the town is a houfe of Black friars. At Slebcch, north-eaft of Haver ford -Well, Wize, and Walter his fon, founded a preceptory of the knights of St. John of Jerufalem, before the year 1301 ) which, at the dilfolution, was endowed with the annual revenue of two huncied and eleven pounds nine {hillings and eleven-pence. Three miles fouth-eaft of Haverford-Weft is Piclon- caflle, which is very ancient, and was built in the time of William Rufus, by William de Picton, a Norman knight. For want of iftue male, it defcended from the Pictons to the Wogans, then to the Danes, and laftly to the Philipfes of Kylfant, in whofe family it continued eight generations, and was lately the manfion-houfe of/ Erafmus Philips, Bart. It is remarkable that this caftle continues entire, and has been always inhabited, though moft of the other caflles in Wales have been demolifhed. It was garrifoned by Sir Richard Philips, for king Charles I. in the civil wars, and heid out along fiege. It is a very ftrong, handfome ftrucfure, confidering the time in which it was erected. To the fouth of Haverford- Weft, and on the north fidi of Milford-Haven, is Pyllos, where Adam de Rupe, about the year 1200, founded a priory, and placed in ic monks of the order of Tyron ; but in time thefe monks* forfook the {trict difcipline enjoined them by their foun- der, and became common Benedictines. This hnufe was dedicated to St. Mary and St. Kudoc, and is faid to have been fubordinate to the abbey of Sc. Dogmael. At the diflblution, its annual revenues amounted to iixty-feven pounds fifteen {hillings and three-pence. We next entered Whifton, or Wiflon, a mean incon- fiderable town, one hundred and ninety-one miles from. London. It is governed by a mayor and bailiff, has a weekly market on Saturdays, and an annual fair held November the eighth, for horfes, horned cattle, and fheep. From Whifton we paffed on to Pembroke, fituated upon a creek of Milford-Haven, in the moft pleafant part of all Wales, two hundred and feventeen miles weft by north of London. It derives its name from the an- cient Britifh word Penvro, a cape or promontory. It is the county town, and has two handfome bridges, over two fmall rivers that run into a creek, which forms the weft fide of the promontory. It is well inhabited, and has many good houfes, and three parifti churches, St. Michael's, St. Mary's, and St. Nicholas's. Here is alfo a cuftom-houfe. Among the inhabitants are feveral merchants, who, favoured by the fituation of the place, employ near two hundred fail on their own account, fo that, next to Caermarthen, it is the largeft and richeft town in South-Wales. It has one long ftrait ftreet, upon a narrow part of a rock, and the above-mentioned rivers feem to be two arms of Milford-Haven, which ebbs and flows clofe to the town. It is governed by a mayor, bailiff, and burgefles, and was anciently fortified with walls and a magnificent caftle, firft built by Arnulph de Montgomery, brother to the earl of Shrewftmry, in the reign of king Henry I. It i3 feated on a beautiful rock, at the weft end of the town. In this rork under the chapel is a vault called Wogan, remarkable for a very fine echo : this is fuppofed to have been a ftore room for the garrifon, there being a ftair-cafe leading into it from the caftle. This ftrudlure being burnt a few years after it was erected, it was rebuilt by Owen, the fon of Cadogan of Blethim. It is remarkable for being the birth-place of Henry VII. and for the brave defence made by the garrifon for king Charles I. The. church of St. Nicholas at the weft end of the town, beyond the caftle, is no more than a part of the church 4 D fonnfrly 2S6 P E M B R O K E S H 1 R E. formerly belonging to a Benedicline priory, called St. Nicholas of Monkton, which was founded in the year I098, by Arnulph de Montgomery, earl of Pembroke, and given to the abbey of St. Martin of Sayes in Nor- mandy. This being a cell to a foreign abbey was feized by king Edward III. during his wars with France. Kinrr Henry III. reftored it. Afterwards it was feized again, and given by king Henry VI. to Humphry, duke ofGloucefter, who made it a cell to the abbey of St. Alban's. Pembroke has given the title of earl to the feveral noble families of Montgomery de Clare, Marfhai de Valence, and Halting. •Pembroke fends one member to parliament, has a good weekly market on Saturdays, and four annual fairs, held on the fourteenth of May, Trinity-Mondny, the tenth of July, and the twenty-fifth of September, for horned cattle, horfes, fheep and cloth. Near this town was an hofpital dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, which was valued at the fuppreffion at only one pound fix (hillings and eight-pence per annum. Near Stackpoole Bofher, upon the fea-coaft, not far from Pembroke, is a pool of water called Bofherfton- Meer, fo deep, that it could never be founded, yet be- fore a ftorm, it is faid to bubble, foam, and make a noife fo loud as to be heard at feveral miles diftance. The banks are of no great circumference at the top • but broader downwards, and at a confiderable depth, is a great breach towards the fea, which is about a furlong diftant, and it is fuppofed to have a fubterraneous com- munication with it. Leaving Pembroke, we continued our tour to Nar- bcth, fituated on the fummit of a hill, on the eafternfide of the county, two hundred and nine miles from London. This town had formerly a caftle, the ruins of which are flill vifible ; faid to have been built by Sir Andrew Pcrrot, whole anceftor left Normandy with William the Con- queror. Here is a weekly market on Wednefdays, and Jive annual fairs, viz. March the twenty-firft, June the fourth, July the fifth, September the twenty-fixth, and December the eleventh, all for horfes, horned cattle and fheep. Four miles to the north-weft of Narbeth is the caftle of Liehaiden, which is feated on an eminence, and was the principal feat of the bilhop of St. David's, who from this caftle takes his barony. About the year 1514, Ed- ward Vaughan, bifhop of St. David's, repaired it, and built a chapel in it; but in the year 1616, bifhop Richard Milbourr, procured a licence from the arch- bifhop of Canterbury to demolifh it ; the lead and a great part of the other materials having been fold by fome of hrs predeceflbrs. However, great part of the walls are ilill ftanding, and may continue for ages in their prefers t condition. • ( Tenby, or Tenbigh, the next place we vifited, is fituated on the fea fhore, 208 miles from London. It is a neat town, governed by a mayor and bailiff, and, ex- cept Pembroke, is the moft agreeable of all the towns on the fea-coaft of South-Wales. Befides its having a good load for {hipping, it has a commodious quay, a good harbour, a large fifhery of herrings, and carries on a confiderable trade to Ireland, particularly in coals ; for the inhabitants {hip off yearly from hence feven or eight thoufand chaldrons of coal and culm, and the coaft of the bay abounds in iron ftone. This town was ancient- ly noted for a fifhery on a bank called Will's Mark, in Briftol channel ; but upon the inhabitants growing rich, they forgot the old masks of their fifhing-bank, and th'vi? loft the fifhery; and though fome attempts have been made to find it again, it has been without effect. Tenby was formerly fortified with ffrong walls and a caftle, but they are now both decayed. The ruins of the caftle are ftill remaining, and within its view are the iflcs of Caldy and Lundy, which are feated to the fouth- ueft. This ftrudture was well fituated for the defence of the town and the bay. It was built by the Normans, and was taken by Rhys ap Gruffiydh, prince of South Wales, in the year ] 152, after which it was frequently contended for by the princes of Wales. Here are two weekly markets on Wednefdays and Sa- turdays, and five annual fairs, viz. Whitfun-Tuefday, the fourth of May, the twentieth of July, the twentieth of October, and the fourth of December, for horned - cattle, horfes and fheep. Tenby had an hofpital or lazer-houfe, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and endowed at the fupprcftion with two pounds a year. The ifland of Caldey, called by the Welch Inifpir, is pretty ne;\r the fhore, and the north part of it is about two miles fouth-weft of Tenby. On this little ifiand the mother of Robert Fitz-Martin founded a priory, fubordi- nate to the abbey of St. Dogmael, which was v-ilued at the diffuhition at five pounds, ten (hillings and eleven- pence a year. Over againft this ifland, and at a greater diftance from the Ihore, is the Ifte of Lundy. This, favs Dr. Gibfon, is the larger of the two, and yet not much above two miles long and a mile broad. It is encom- paffed with rock?, and has only one entrance, which is fo ftrait, that two men can hardly walk a-breaft. It is full of good pafture, and has a great number of rabbits. Pigeons and fterlings flock thither in prodigious numbers to breed, Four miles to the weftward of Tenby is Mannorbeer caftle, which is feated on Briftol channel, and is gene- rally fuppofed to have been built by the Normans, in the reign of William Rufus. It was held by the crown from the time of king Henry I. to the reign of kino- James I. who, by a grant, which was afterwards con- firmed by his fon king Charles I. gave it to the Bowens of Trell oyne, from whom it defcended by marriage to the Phillipfes. Six miles weft of Tenby is Carew caftle, which for- merly belonged to the barony of Carew, which, with this caftle, was given as a portion in marriage with Nefta, the daughter of Rees, prince of SoutlfWales, to Gerald de Carrio, whofe defendants, by the name of Carew, enjoyed it for feveral generations. It ftands near an arm of Milford-Haven, moft of the walls are ftill en- tire, which {hew that it was not only a very ftrong, hue confidering the time in which it was built, a very beaut - ful caftle. Remarks on the Sea-coast of Pembrokelhire, This coaft being wholly bounded by the fea on the: weft, has many things remarkable. We began our furvey at the mouth of the Teivi, and then pioc'ee'ded to Tenby, noticing every thing that merits attention. The Southern promontory of the river Tcivi is c.illeJ Kemaes-head ; whence the coaft runs fouth-lbuth-eaft to- Aberkibor haven, where fmall veffels often fhelter therr.- felves in north-weft winds, which are often very violent on this coaft; but there is not water fufEcient for fhips of any confiderable burden. About four miles to the fouth-eaftof Aberkibor haven, is Newport-bay, where fhips of large burthen often come to an anchor, there being feven or eight fathoms water. The way is eiitirely {heltered from northerly and eafterlv winds. Newport haven, at the bottom of the bay, af- fords fhelter to fmall veffels ; but the water is not deep enough to admit large fhips. The fouthern extremity of Newport-bay is called Dinas-point : there are no rocks in this bay. From Dinas head the coaft extends to the fouth-ward, about four miles to Fifgard-bay, where there is room fuf- ficient for a confiderable fleet to ride fafely in foutherly and eafterly winds ; but they muft not venture too near the fouth fide of the bay, there being two large rocks, called the Cow and Calf, lying about half a mile from the fhore. The fouthern point of this bay is called Langlas-head, from whence the coaft ftretches away nearly weft about fix miles to Strurnble ; where it turns to the fouthward about thirteen miles to St. David's head. Between thefe two head-lands, are two or three fmall bays, where coafting veflels come to an anchor in eafterly winds. Some years fince, the fands on this coaft having been wafhed away at different times, by a long continuance of ftormy weather, difcovered very large trees, fome of 5 which PEMBROKESHIRE, 2 3 j which having been felled, lay at full length, while the trunks of others flood upright in the phices where they grew. Thefe trees lay to thick, and in fuch numbers, that the fhore, for a confiderable fpace, appeared like a foreft cut down. On thefe trees were as -plainly the marks of the axe, as if they had been but juft felled ; but the wood was- become as hard and black as ebony. Hence it appears, that great part of the coaft of this county was anciently a forelf ; but by whom, or on what occafion, the trees were felled and fuffered to remain on the fpot, cannot now be known. About two miles to the weftward of St. David's head, are a dangerous ledge of large rocks, called the Bifhop and his Clerks ; clofe to the fides of which the water is fourteen fathoms deep ; fo that they become very dange- rous to feamen in the night. About twelve miles fouth-fouth-weft from the Bifhop and his Clerks, are two large rocks called Grefhorlm ; two miles and a half to the weftward of which is a ledge of rocks called the Barrel ; two miles to the weftward of the Barrel, are eight rocks, termed the Hats ; and about four miles and a half to the weftward of the latter, are fix rocks called the Smalls. All thefe rocks, which ap- pear at low water, render the navigation dangerous in thefe parts; feamen therefore, not well acquainted with this coaft will do well not to come nearer the land than eighteen miles ; for by keeping at that diftance, they will fail to the weftward of all thefe rocks. Near St. David's head is alfo an ifland, called Ramfay ifland, which, on the eaft, fhoots cut in a high promontory, but on the weft is level and fruitful, and is faid to have been inhabited by fo many faints, that no lefs than twenty thoufand are faid, in ancient hiffories, to lie interred there. Though now, the paffage between South-Britain and Ireland is at Holyhead, in the ifle of Anglefey, it was formerly at this place, from which the paifage between the two kingdoms is both fhorter, fafef, and more con- venient, for thofe who have buftnefs to tranfact. on the coaft. St. David's head forms the northern point of a large bay called St. Bride's bay, where fhips anchor in about feven fathom water, and are land-locked from all winds, except thofe at fouth-weft; there are no rocks or foul ground in this bay, fo that there is no danger in riding here. About three miles to the weftward of the fouthern point of St. Bride's bay, are two iflands, one called Scaumer, and the other Scookam. Thefe iflands break off great part of the force of the fca from the fhips riding in St. Bride's bay in foutherly wind. About fix miles to the fouthward of S\ Bride's bay, is Milford-haven, univerfally allowed to be the beft harbour in Great Britain, and as fafe and fpacious as any in Europe. It has fixteen deep and fafe creeks, five bays, and thirteen roads, all diftinguifhed by their feveral names, in which it is faid, that a thoufand fail of (hips may ride in perfect fecurity, and at a fufficient diftance from each ether ; nor is there any danger in failing in or out with the tide, either by day or by night, from whatever point the wind may happen to blow; and if a fhip in diftrefs comes in without either anchor or cable, fhe may run afhore on foft ooze, and there lie fafe till fhe is refitted. The fpring-tide rifes in this harbour thirty-fix feet; fo that fhips may at any time be laid afhore. Dale harbour is a ready out-let for fmall vtffels, where they may ride in two or three fathoms at low water, in the rei^n of queen Elizabeth, before the Spanifh invafion, two forts were begun at the entrance of Milford-haven, one on each fide, called Nangle, and Dale block-houfes, but they were not then finifheJ. The Stack-rock rifes here above water, lying near the mi-dle of the entrance be- tween Nangle and Dale. Penermouth is the opening of that branch of the haven, on which the town of Pem- broke is feated, and where the cuftom-houfe of Milford is kept. The breadth of the entrance between rock and rock is but two hundred yards at high water, and a hundred and twelve at low water. There \% a ridge of rocky ground that has the name of Carrs, which runs almoft acrofs Milford-haven, from Peter-church towards Llandftadwell, where it renders the landing-place difficult to Arrangers, from its not appearing at low- water. Nay- land is the place where thry bring woollen yarn from Ireland, and there fait is alfo refined and conveyed from thence over the whole country. Laurreny is the place where large fhips take in coal and culm, which are brought in barges from Crefwell at low-water. Veins of copper-ore have been obferved in the fea-clifFs, feme of which of the grey and purple kind, are very rich ; there are alfo fome yellow and fulphureous, but none of them were ever properly wrought. The great plenty of lime-ftone about this haven gives the inhabitants an op- portunity of improving the ground, and rendering the land more fruitful than in the other parts of the county. The great excellency and utility of this harbour is, that in an hour's time a fhip may be in or out of it, and in the way between the Land's-end and Ireland. As it lies near the mouth of the Severn, a fhip, in eight or ten hours, may be over on the coaft of Ireland, or off the Land's-end in the Englifh-channel ; and a veflel may get out of this place to the weft, much fooner than from either Plymouth or Falmouth. This harbour has been greatly improved by new works at the expence of the government. A little to the fouthward of Milford-haven is Frefii- water-bay, where fhips often come to an anchor in eafterly winds. The fouthern point of this bay is called Crow point ; between which and St. Gowan's point are three fandy bays, where fmall veflels frequently come to anchor in northerly winds. To the eaftward of St. Gowan's point is a pretty large bay, where there is very good riding for fhips in nor- therly winds, but is not much frequented. At the eaftern point of this bay is Caldy Ifland already mention- ed ; and to the eaftward of this ifland is Tenby bay, very much frequented by fhips ; the trade of Tenby being very conliderable efpecially in coals, culm, &c. Members of Parliament for Pembrokefhire. This county fends three members to parliament ; one knight of the fhire for the county ; one burgefs for the borough of Pembroke, and another for the borough of Haverford Weft. GLAMORGAN* GLAMORGANSHIRE, /"ip^HIS county derived its name from a contraction f or' the Welfli words Gwlad Morgan, or the county of Morgan, and is fuppofed to have been thus called from a prince of this part of the country, faid to have been filled eight hundred years before the birth of our Saviour ; but lome other writers derive the name from the word Mor, which, in the Britifli tongue, fig- hifies the fea, this b ing a maritime county,' It is bounded on the fouth. and part of the weft, by Briftol channel ; on the north-weft by Caermarthenfhire ; on the north by Breckr.ockfbire ; and on the eaft by Mon- mouth -hire : it extends forty-eight miles in length from eaft to weft, twenty-feven in breadth from north to fouth, and one hundred and fixteen in circumference. It is divided into ten hundreds, in which are one city, feven market-towns, one hundred and eighteen pari/hes, about ten thoufand houfes, and fifty-eight thoufand inhabitants. This county, in the time of the Romans, was part of the diftricT: inhabited by the Silures, and had feveral Roman ftations. Thus Boverton, a few miles to the fouth or ~ Cowbridge, is fuppofed to be the Bovium of Antonius; Neath to be his Nidum, and Loghor, to the weft of Swanfey, to be his Leucarum. RIVERS. The principal rivers of this county are the Rhymny, ihe TafF, the Ogmore, the Avon, the Cledaugh, and the Tave. The Rhymny, or Remney, rifes upon the borders of JBrecknockfhire ;. and running fouth-fouth-eaft, and feparatiiig Glamorganfliire from Monmouthfhire, falls into the mcuth of the Severn, eaft of Cardiff, the county town. The Taff rifes in Brecknock/hire, fouth of the town of Brecknock ; and running fouth-fouth-eaft, by the dry of LandafF, and the town of Cardiff,, falls into the mouth of the Severn, about a mile or two fouth-vveft of the mouth of the Rhymny. The Ogmore rifes upon the borders of Brecknock- ftirre, and running fouth, falls into the Severn fea fome milts weft ot Cowbridge, a market town. The Avon riles in the north part of the county, not far from the fource, of the Ogmore; and running fouth, falls into the Severn fea at Aberavon, fouth-eaft of Neath. The Cledaugh rifes alk> in the north part of this county, and running fouth, falls into the Briftol channel iiiuth of Neath. The Tave rifes at the foot of the Black Mountain in Erecknockfhire, and running fouth, falls into the fame tea at Swanfey, a market town. The lefs confiderable rivers of this county are the Elay, the Ewenny, the Neath, the Hcpfey, the Melta, the Trangath, the Duliflie, and the Turch. Air, Soil, and Natural Productions, The air, in the fouth part of Glamorganshire, towards the fea, is temperate and healthful ; but the northern parti which is mountainous, is cold and piercing, full of thick woods, extremely barren, and thin of inhabi- tants; but the mountains ferve to feed herds of cattle, and fend forth flreams, which add greatly to the fertility of the other parts ol the county. Indeed, between the mountains, there are fome fertile vallies, which afford good pafture; for the level part being more capable of cultivation, produces rcmnkably fweet grafs, and pretty hug: crops of corn. The mountains yield coal and 2 lead-ore ; and the fouth part is fo remarkably fertile, pleafant, and populous, that it is generally {tiled the garden of Wales ; but has no manufacture. Remarks on the Husbandry of Glamorganshire. As the foil in different parts of Glamorganftiire is various, fo the husbandry varies in different parts of the county. About Cowbridge and j Bridgend the hufbandry is perhaps the moft imperfect in any part of Wales. Some farmers keep from two to four hundred fheep, yet never fold them on their lands. In this part of the county are many farms which confift of a very light fandy foil, and yet no turnips are fown. An Englifli farmer who fettled in the parifh of Cantikon, near Bridgend, fowed two acres, and was at great pains to hoe them well, and keep them clean, for which he was highly ridiculed by his neighbours, who really thought him mad ; but were at laft furprized to fee how large a crop he procured. He fold his turnips by the fack to all the adjacent towns, and gained a very confiderable profit. This practice he has ever fince continued with very great advantage, but has never been imitated. The hufbandmen of the county fallow and manure their lands with lime, which is done very cheap ; they lay about four hundred and twenty bufliels on an acre, and it lafts good four years. Their courfe of hufbandry is, i. wheat j 2. bar- ley ; 3. oats ; 4. fallow. Others purfue the follow- ing courfe: 1. wheat;. 2. barley; 3. oats; 4. peafe, or beans. They generally give the land three ploughing* for wheat, fow three buftiels, and reckon a middling crop from twenty-five to thirty buftiels. For barley they plough five or fix times, and confider twenty-five bufhels as a middling crop. Sometimes they fow clover, and feed their hogs with ir. The farms are here in general fmall j fome not more than thirty pounds, and the largeft not above a hundred a year. The grafs land about Cowbridge lets at about twenty {hillings, and the arable at ten fliillings the acre, Where the foil, is more fandy, there is a great deal lett at five fliillings. They ufe oxen in general for the greater part of the work and tillage. PRICE of LABOUR. Thofe who have conftant work, a ftiilling a day.. An ox boy to drive, from three-pence to four-pence a day. Reaping wheat, from four fliillings to four fliillings and fix -pence the acre. Mowing corn, one {hilling and fix-pence, and fmall beer. Mowing grafs, one {hilling and eight-pence, and drink. City, and IVTarket Towns. The city is Llandaff ; and the market towns are, Cardiff, Cowbridge, Llantriffent, Bridge-End, Neath, Swanfey, and Penrife. . After viewing every thing remarkable in Pembroke- {hire, we embarked on board a fmall veffel at Tenby,, and landed at Oxwich-bay in Glamorganftiire, from whence we patted to Penrife, or Penryfe, fituated near the fea-coaft, one hundred and eighty-feven miles from London. This town has a good harbour for fliips, and formerly here was a caftle ; a confiderable part of the ruins are flill remaining, by which it appears to have been a ftrong and handiome ftru have meeting-houfes, and fufFered only to preach and read the divine fervicc to a very fmall number, fince the year 1745 ; whereas fuch minifters as take the oaths, and pray for his cnajefty in exprefi terms, have meeting- houfes. Of the prcfbyierians there are feveral diflenting feels, as Eifkinites, Gibonites, from the minifters of that name, who have ficeded from the church of Scot- land, and upon that account called Seceders : alfo mountaineers, £cc. as preaching in the open fields and on the mountains: thefe are alfo called Came- ron ians,. The fait of Scotland, which is principally manufac- tured in what they cdl pans or caldrons, is faid to be ftronger and better than that of Shields and Newcaft'e, cures fifli to greater advantage, and is fo much the more valued abroad, that large quantities of it are ex- ported every year to Geunany, Norway, the Baltic, &c. it ha$ been obferveJ tljstf the wine-trade fometimes runs againft th : Scotch, in point of advantage, efpeci- ally if the article of French brandy and French wine be admitted ; the fmuggling of which is at prefent faid to be in a great meafure at an end every where, efpecially in the north. But that alone excepted, it is well affured, that allowing the lead, corn, tobacco, and fometimes fait, which Scotland exports for wines, which they receive in return from whatever country, the balance is not againft them ; for were thefe wines brought even from Spain, the balance would be ftill more in their favour, on account of their fifh and linen, both which are good merchandize on the Spanifli fide of the bay of Bifcay. The goods Scotland receives from England bears no proportion to thofe it fends thither; for the principal article which it takes is its woollen cloths of the finer fort only, and fomefilks; in lieu of which England takes ofF their wool, cattle, linen, muflin, corn, and nearly all their produce except filh and fait. At Invernefs in particular, we are told that the Sconce or Oliver's fort, is laid out of late into convenient places for the working of filks. Among the forts and garrifons of this kingdom, as Edinburgh, Stirling, and Dumbarton caftles, with ForC William, &c. we beg leave to infert an account here, though fomething out of place, as having been miflaid or forgot, concerning the fort on ArJefear Point, a I regular fortification lately built in Scotland, fince the ' troubie 296 SCOT troubles of 1745, and one of the largeft in Britain. It ftands on a narrow neck of land or peninfula made by the fca, and called Ardefcar, about eight miles caff, of In- vernefs, and oppofite to Chanery on the Murray firth where narroweft, being not much above a mufket-fhot over to the Rofs fide, has a ditch cut acrofs the neck of land, into which the tide flows, with (lout draw-bridges. It is faid to be larger than Gibraltar, and built after the fame plan ; and will contain upwards of ten thoufand men when compleated. To the land-fide, towards the kirk of Ardcfear, this citadel has guns quite level with the around, and above thefc large battering pieces; on the Chanery fide is a Hoping impregnable land-bank, about thirty feet in the bale, as a defence on that fide, with walls, ramparts, ravelins, and guns, all properly ranged around ir. Here is a draw-well of the fineft water, which was the firft work done here, and found by digging to a proper depth, the foil being very fandy and barren ; from whence it appears, that the like ad- vantage might be procured by human labour, even in the dry defarts of Arabia or Africa. And from Ardefear has been made by the military a new road overtheCairn of Month,- Kincardine 0'Neal,_ or the low road for Edinburgh, even to the town of Perth, communicating with general Wade's well known road ; fo that the king's forces may now foon and eafily traverfe all the mountainous, and otherwife inacceffible parts of Scot- land. Since the demolition of Fort George at Invernefs in 1745* this place has been built as a bridle on the Highlands ; but Oliver built a fconce or regular citadel near the mouth of them, which lies a little below Inver- nefs, and continued till the Reftoration, when it was ordered to be demolifhed; apparently for no other view, but its being a monument of the Protector. The firft and moft antient univerficy in Scotland is that dedicated to the apoftle St. Andrew, the tutelar faint of that nation. The ftory of which, as related by the monkifh writers, is, that in the year 805, Achaius, king of Scotlond, and Hungus king of the Pitts, were engaged in a war with Atheiftan king of the Weft Saxons, and both armies being met in the evening near Haddington, in Eaft Lothian, deferred to engage till next morning. About midnight king Achaius being in his tent at his devotions, St. Andrew appeared to him in a moft glorious manner, with the enfigns of his martyr- dom, and affured him of victory^ Accordingly next morning both armies met, the Saxons were defeated with great (laughter, and their king killed in the field.. In memory of which Achaius put his kingdom under the protection of St. Andrew. The city of St. Andrew is the capital of Fifefbire ■ jn Scotland, in Latin Adreanopolis^ or fanum Sanfij Andrea, has its name from St. Andrew, the tutelary faint of Scotland, whofe bones are faid to have been brought hither from Patras, a town of Peloponnefus, by one Regulus a Greek monk, in the year 408, a man in that age much efteemed for his piety, as appears by the church dedicated to him, and called by his name. From him alfo, as old writers report, this town was at firft called Regimunt, or Killrimunt, that is, Mens fandi Reguli; for we read that Oengus, Henguft, Ungus, or (Angus) a king of the Pidts, granted to God and St. Andrew, that he fhould be head of all the churches within the Pidtifh dominions : and he built } the above-mentioned church in the fifth century, which he alfo called Kyle-ri-mont. But the name of St. Andrew's has prevailed for many ages. It is alfo manifeft from old manufcripts, that this was one of the principal feats of the Culdees, i. e. according to fome, Cultures Dei, worfhippers of God. But this feeming a ftrained derivation, and the grand receptacle, or feminary of thofe religious votaries, being at I-co- lumb-ryle, in the little ifland of St. Columbus, weft of Mull in Scotland^ the name is rather thought to be of Erfe or Irifh, originally denoting their living in cells about a church, burying-ground, or fuch like confe- crated place, and devoted to the fervice of God. They had the care and direction of holy things, from the firft reception of Chriftianity in thofe parts. 2 L A N D. Alexander I. king of Scotland, founded, fay fome, a priory here, for regular canons who were monks of the order of St. Auguftinej the government of the Picts having been abolifhed in Britain. And Ken- neth III. transferred the Epifcopal fee from Abernethy to St. Andrew's, about the year 840. So that St. Andrew's is an ancient, and once was a flourifhing city, the metropolis of all Scotland, the feat of the firft univerfity, and before the revolution, the fee of an archbifhop, who was primate of all Scotland. There ttill remain the marks of venerable antiquity, the ruins of the cathedral church and monaftery, which abundantly fhew their ancient glory and mag- nificence. It is remarkable for a fine fifuation, {landing in a plain with a moft pleafing profpect to the German ocean, and north of a promontory of Fifefhire, which the feamen call Fifenefs. It is furrounded with ex- tenfiye corn-field'-, abounding in excellent wheat and barley, with other grain j and delightful downs, called the Links, lie on the fea fide towards the north. The famous phyfician Cvdan efteemed it the moft healthy townjie ever lived in, having occafion to experience ic for fome months, when he came over from Italy, at the requeft of the^Pope, to prefcribe to Archbifhop John Hamilton, at which time he recovered of a confumption. And twenty years before this, it had the approbation of the moft eminent phyficians of the country ; when a houfe was fitted up here for the reception of Mag- dalen, daughter of Francis I. king of France, who married James V. king of Scotland, in 1537 ; but that lady died fhortly after her arrival at Holyrood-houfe, in Edinburgh, and never reached St. Andrew's. Of old, the town confifted of four large ftreets, lying from eaft to weft almoft parallel to one another. The moft northerly of the four, called Swallow-ftreet, though formerly the principal, is now entirely ruined, not lb much as a houfe remaining in it. The other three from their regularity, do not feem to have been a fortuitous concourfe, as it were of houfes, as moft of the other towns in the country are; all of them termi- nating eaftward at the cathedral, which look upon each other, and feem to bewail their decaying and moul- dering ftate : for though the town was formerly about two miles in circuit, now hardly remains one thou- fand houfes ; and of thofe near two hundred are become ruinous and not habitable. The number of louls here ftill amounts to above four thoufand. But many of the inhabitants have little or nothing to do, the place hav- ing neither trade nor manufactures. Though at the fame time it has a harbour; but this is capable of receiv- ing only fmall veflels. Near the town are quarries, in which is plenty of free-ftone, and of this all the houfes are built. Before the reformation this city was crowded, both" on account of trade and religion, pilgrims reforting hither in great numbers to v i fit the relicks of St. An- drew. Here were two other religious houfes, namely, a Francifcan and Dominican priory, befides that of the order of St. Auguftine ; which laft, fome make to have been founded (otherwife than is above-mentioned) by Robert, Bifhop of Sr. Andrew's, who died in 1139, and eftablifhed upon fome of them revenues formerly be- longing to the antient Cu'dces of this place. James Stuart, afterwards earl of Murray and regent of Scot- land, with whom Buchanan was a particular favourite, and who in return, commends him very highly in his hiftory, was in his younger days prior or it. This mo- naftery was more like the magnificent pjlaceof a prince, than a convent of monks, profefling poverty, as ftil! ap- pears from its grand ruins, and particularly by the wall of hewn-ftone that encompaffed it with feveial battle- ments and turrets. Here is now only one parifh-church remaining, namely, that of the Holy Trinity. There are two others, but thefe are rather chapels ; the one to St. Salvator's college; of which, however, no ufe is made, it having no endowment, and the Provoft of that college being often a layman, even in a Prefbyterian feme. SCOT L ' Ac i N B. The ether is the chapel belonging to St. Leonard's college, the Provoft of which muft be a minifter. The church of the Holy Trinity is an ancient and {lately edifice^ built with fine free-ftone, in the form of a crofs ; and at its weft end is a handiome fpire, which is in good repair. In it is a fine monument for Arch^ bifhop Sharpe, who was afTafiinated upon a moor by the devots or blind zealots, called Wigs, in the reign of Charles If. as he was coming home in his coach. This Dr. Sharp .was originally a Prefhytcrian minifter, who being deputed by the afTembly of the kirk, to come up tc the court of that piince 4 for the redrefs of fome grievances his brethren loudly complained of; he was prevailed on to embrace the dudtrine of the church In London, and accepting of the fee of St. Andrew's, came back to his own country, vefted with the dignity of their metropolitan : and hence their refentment and premedi- tated malice, thus barbaroufly vented themf.lves. He was a man of great piety, and no lefs eminent for his learning. This monument was erected by the arch- bifhop's brother, Sir William Sharpe, Bart, who, order in to future it from the fate -be feared it might be liable to, fettled fix thoufar.d Scottifh m.t. ks, which is above three hundred pounds (terling, to the city of St. Andrew's, for keeping it in conftant repair : which has had the delired erred - ; for the magiftrar.es are very cartful of it, and would be very fevere upon any who fhould attempt to deface it. On the north fide'of the town ftcod the old caftle, of which now nothing remains but the walls. It was buiit by Roger de Bellomont, bifhop of St. Andrew's, who died in the year 1202, being fee on d Ion of Robert de Bellomont, earl of Leiccfter, and chancellor of Scotland. it was repaired by Cardinal Beaton or Bethune, who was the Pope's nuncio, and M;tropo- Jitan of this fee; and aifo by archbifnop Hamilton: the former of which procured i\lr. George Wifhart, a zealous reformer, to be burnt here in the parade, while from his window he. gluited his eyes with fo horrid a fpccfncle : but he hirnfelf was afterwards affaflinated in l c^6 in the very fame place, in revenge of wnofe death, tbfi French, with the eonfent of the queen-regent of Scotland, attacked it, from whom it fuffered greatly. But at the Reformation itfaffered more from the fury of the populace j and ilnce the Revolution its ruin has been completed. Eaft of the caftle are the ruins of the ftately cathedral of St. Andrew's, founded by bifhop Arnold, who died in 1163, and finifhed by bifhop Lamberton, who died in 132^. It was in length from eaft to weft three hun- dred and feventy feet, and the crofs from fouth to north one hundred and eighty ; its breadth fixty-five, and its height one hundred feet. Though fome draw another kind of ichnography, making it feven feet longer and two broader than St. Peter's church at Rome. So that with regard to its height, as well as the beauty of its pillars, and the fymmetry of the whole fabric, it was r.ne of the beft Gothic ftrucfures in the world. It was near demoiilhed at the Reformation ; but in fome meafure repaired by the fucceeding archbifhops. But iince the Revolution it has been wholly in ruins, as we fee it at this day. Near the rudera of the cathedral, are ftill remaining the walls of the very ancient chapel of St. Rule (the Regulus above-mentioned), with the great fquare fpirc If ill entire. . It is one hundred and five feet high, and made of fuch large and durable ftones, that though built fo many ages ago, yet fo little has it fufteied by the in- juries of the weather, that a fmall expence -would fave-it from falling for many ages yet to come. And as this is probably one of the moft ancient monuments of antiquity in Great Britain, it is a pity it fhould go to ruin for want of a futtable reparation. Betide:, this wculd be the moft proper chapel and chapter-houfe for the Knights of the moft ancient (ider of the Thiftie, fince under the patronage of the apoflle St. Andrew (vvhofe relics were preferved at this place), that ho- nourable order had its life and foundation: and by king James VIl's (i. e. James II. of England j letters-patent for reviving and rtftoring this order of knighthood, which wsre dated at Windior the tvrenty-fixth of M: y } 1687, it appears that the Knights of the Thiftie of St. Andrew, formerly held their chapters in the great church of St. Andrew : upon thei demolition of which his faid Majcfty ordered them for the future to be ke^ t at the Gfiapel-royal of Holyrood-honfe. The principal' ornament of this city is the Univer- fity, which at prefent confifts of three colleges It was founded by archbifhop H-nry Wardlaw, in the yeaf 1412 ; and he obtained very ample privilege? and immu- nities from Pope Benedict XIII. which were afterwards confirmed to them by king James I. of Scotland, and feveral fucceeding princes of that kingd m. In the time of Epifcopacy, the" archbifhops of St. Andrew's were chancellors of the Uuiverfity. The rector is annually chofen, and by the ftatutes he ought to be one [of the principals of the three colleges here, which are. called St. Salvator's, St. Leonards, and New College. . '■ The college of Sr. Salvator^ commonly called the Old College, was founded by James Kennedy, archbifnop of St. Andrew's, in the year 14+8, who was gramlfon to king Robert III. He erected the edifice, furnifhed it with coftly ornaments,, ami endowed it with furficienc revenues for a doctor,, l-atchelor, and licentiate of di- vinity, four profeilbrs of philofouhy, and eight burfars or poor fcholars. The earl of Cafiils fettled a mainte- nance for a profcfTor of philology or humanity. The aforefaid bifhop alfa founded a church or large vaulted chapel to it, which , is covered with free-ftone, and beautified with a Jofty toweriffig fteeple all of hewn (lone, and in it his monument of curioils workmanfhip is ftill to be feen. It has a good library, founded by Dr« Slceen, profeffor-of divinity, and principal of it, which by the donations of learned men, is now very well fur- nifhed with good books. He alio repaired and aug- mented the college-fabric, having made a collodion for that purppfe. The common-hall and fchools are vadly large, and the cloifters and private lodgings for the mafters and fcholars have been very magnificent and convenient ; but the fabric of late years has become very much out of repair; nor are the college-revenues able to fupport it. In this college are three filver maces, as old as its foundation : one of them of the fineft work- manfhip, gilt, and weighs feventeen pounds. Thefe, with fix other maces fent to the other colleges in Scot- land, were found in archbinVp Kennedy's tomb in the reign of king Charles II. and fuppofed to have been buried there at the time of the Reformation, in order to fave them from the violence and fury of the times, par- ticularly in Scotland, when every thing adorned with images was defaced, if not deftroyed. . St. Leonard's college was founded alfo before the Re- formation,, by James Hepburn, prior of St. AndrewV, in the reign of king James V. and afterwards patronized by the earl of Lenox, with falaries for a principal or warden, who is alv/ays a doctor of divinity, four pro- fefibrs of philolbphy, and maintenance for eight burfers, exhibitioners, or poor fcholars. To thefe Sir John Scot of Scot-Starvet added a profefibr. of philology, with a genteel falary, and augmented the library very confide- ntly. Of late it has alfo been very much enoreafed by Sir John Wedderburn, doctor of phyhc, who, at his death, left his large collection of books to it. Here alfo is the famous manufcript of the hiftory of Scotland, called Chronicon Scoticum, written by John of Fordun, v/ho v/as a Monk there. The rector or minifter of St. Leonard's church is commonly the principal of this college, who has a better revenue, and more dudents, than any of the other two colleges. In order to keep up the ancient fkill of archery, and a tafte for manly exercifs and innocent amufement, a prize of a filver arrow is annually given for the ftuJcnts of this college to fhoot with bows and arrows; and the winner appends his coat of arms to it on a iilver plate. By an ait made in the year twenty, George II. the col- leges of St. Salvator and St. Leonard have-been united, in purfuance of an agreement which they themfelves made for that purpofe, 4 G The SCOTLAND. The New College, or St. Mary's, was founded by James Bethune, archbifhop, with endowments in it for two profellors, always doctors in divinity; the one flilcd principal profefibr of theology, and the other fimply profefibr of theology ; and fome ftudents in the fame faculty j for no philofophy is taught here, nor any fcholars entertained m it •, only fuch ftudents of the other colleges as have palled through a courfe of philofophy, may enter themfelves, and finifh their ftudies in it. A profeftbr of mathematics was of late years added to this univcrfity ; as was alfo, not long fince, a pro- fcflbr of medicine, with a handfome endowment, namely, the interelt of one thoufand pounds, given by his grace James the late duke of Chandois, whom the univerlity, upon the death of the duke of Athol, in gratitude, chofe to be their chancellor ; which office is during life ; and to it alone, and that of the vice-chancellor, belong the conferring of a 1 univerfity-degrees. Upon the eftablifhmcnt of Prefbytery, at the Revolu- tion, king William fent his Conge d'elire to chufe the aforefaid duke of Athol their chancellor. Mr. James Gregory, the firft profeftbr of mathema- tics in this univerfity, famous for his knowledge in that fcience and aftionomy, erected a commodious obferva- tory in the college-gardens, having procured a contribu- tion to be made for that purpofe. He alfo furniftied it with feveral mathematical inftruments. St. Leonard's and New College having a better re- venue to fupport them than that of St. Salvator, are confequcntly in much better repair. In New College king Charles I. held a parliament, in a fpacious room, with three rows of feats one above another, which will contain four hundred perfons ; and in the middle of the area there is a table for the clerks and other officers. It (till retains the name of the parliament-room, and is fometimes made afib. of for public exercifes. Though here are no fcholars, it is the beft kept of all the three colleges. The ftudents of the univerfity wear fcarlet or red gowns : and it has produced many learned men; among others, the famous lord Napier, inventor of the loga- rithms, and the bones which bear bis name, Sir Robert Murray, Sir Andrew Balfour, and the great Scottilh lawyer, Sir George Mackenzie, Sic. At. St. Andrew's is no harbour of any confequence, the main ocean coming up to the city-walls. And they have fomefhips, at leaic barks, and other fmall coafting- veflels, efpecially for the herring-fifhery, which, in its fcafon, is juft at their doors. Though this city is fo full of ruins, and decayed itructures, yet it is ftill a handfome, well-built, pleafant place. Here alfo are the rudera of a ftrong citadel, which was built by Oliver Cromwell, by means of which, during his ufurpation, he commanded the city and country from the firth of Forth to that of Tay. The above-mentioned prior James Hepburn, at his own expence, walled in two-thirds of this city with watch-towers at proper diftances ; which wall is by fome reckoned the beft in Britain \ and his arms are ftill in many parts of it. The fmall harbour of St. Andrew's has fufTered greatly by the encroachments of the fea. The pier is founded upon a rock about four hundred and forty feet in length ; but this rock runs out five hundred feet further into the fea, at the point of which ftands a beacon : fo that the great fwell of the fea breaking over the rock between this beacon and the pier-head, renders the har- bour very dangerous. In 1728 it was propofed to repair this harbour, and for this end the pier to be carried as far as the beacon : accordingly a brief was granted ; but the collections were infufficient to make any great ad- vances, unlcfs the two pennies act of import on ale would anfwer fuch beneficial purpofes. This city ftill enjoys fome privileges from its original charter yet extant ; by which King David incorporated it in the year il 53. From all that has been faid it will appear, that this ancient city, and its univerfity too, are in a very de- clining ftate. The archbifliop's feat, and that of the 1 ecclefiaftical courts kept there, befides the above-men- tioned great refort of pilgrims to the convents and the chapel of St. Rule, on account of Sc. Andrew's relics, brought great bulinefs thither ; which being now for a long time difufed, and a new college erected at Edin- burgh, and another at the new-town of Aberdeen, con- tribute greatly to the decay of both the town and uni- verfity of St. Andrew's. Formerly, in civil matters, St. Andrew's was the feat of a ftcwartry for Fife : but this, and other hereditary jurifdictions in Scotland, b&Vfc been lodged in the crown, by a late act of the Britifh parliament, for valuable con- fiderations. Before the revolution, at which memorable rera prcf- byterianifm came to be legally eftablifhed in Scotland, the archbifhop of St. Andrew's had under him the twelve following bifiiuprics, namely, Edinburgh, Dun- keld, Aberdeen, Murray, Dumblain, Brechin, Rofs, Caithnefs, and the Orkneys. The diocefe of St. An- j drew's Proper contained Fifefhire, part of Perthfhire, and part of Angus and Mearns. St. Andrew's was alfo one of the feats of the fixty-eight prefbyteries under epifcopacy, as it is at frefent under pn-fbyterianifm, and conftitutes one of the four prefbyteries, of which the fynod of Fife is at prefent compofed. St. Andrew's is the third in rank of the difii ict of royal boroughs, the other four being Dundee, Perth, Coupr.r, and Forfar, which fend one member to par- liament alternately every feven years. In the neighbourhood of St. Andrew's are two very' agreeable feats belonging to the Lefties Earls of Leven, which are called Melvil and J'algony. St. Andrew's is fituated eight miles fouth-e.rft of Dundee, and fourteen north-eail of Edinburgh, latitude j fifi.y-fix degrees twenty minutes north; longitude, two I degrees twenty-five minutes weft. The fecond univerfity in Scotland is Glafgow, in defcribmg or which v/e (hall give an account of the city, its trade and manufactures. Glafgow is a large well-built city in the county of Lanerk or ClydfJale, and fituated on the eaft bank of the Clyde, over which is a ftone bridge of eight arches, built at the fole expence of Gavin Dunbar, aichbifhop of Glafgow, 1440. Glafgow, in Latin Glafguinenfis, is a very antient ci - ty, and in the Erfe language fignifies a greyhound. The ftory of which is as follows : In the fifth century Kentigcrn, called by the Scots St. iV ungo, refided in a cell where the great church now ftands, and converted many of the natives to the chnftian religion. Amongft the reft of his. converts was a lady who had received a ring from her hufband who was gone on a journey, with ftrict charge to keep it fafe till his return. The lady walking one day by the fide of the river, the ring dropped oft", and fhe was in the greateft perplexity, how to recover it. She employed men to fearch for it, but all was in vain. At laft fhe told her cafe to St. Mungo, who bid her, not be afraid but truft, in God. Accordingly the holy man went with her to the river-fide, at the place where the ring was loft. The faint looking up to heaven prayed that God would by a fignal act of his power confirm his miniftry ; which was immediately done ; for he called on the fifh who had fvval- lowed the ring to come on fhore ; when behold a mira- cle ! a large falmon jumped out of the water, and laid the ring at the feet of the faint. The lady's hufband re- turned, and hearing of the affair, was converted tochrif- tianity. The fifh with the ring in his mouth is the arms of Glafgow to this day. The reafon why a grey-hound is likevvife ufed in the arms is, that a dog cf that fpecies waited at the place till the ring was found. In the middle of the city ftands the tolbooth or town- hcufe, of hewn-ftone, with convenient apartments for the magiftrates, and a very lofty tower, v/ith bells which chime every hour. From this and the market-pi ice contiguous run the four principal ftreets in the form of a crofs, each adorned with public ftrudtures, and open : fo that from hence the whole town may be feen as from a centre. The houfes are built uniform, of ftone, be- ing generally fix ftories, and fome more, moftly fup- ported S C O T I ported bv large and fquare Doric pillars, with arches opening inio the flieets, which are fpacious and well- pavtM. lp the higher part of the city, at the end of one of the iireets, ftands the cathedral of St. Mungo, a vaft pile, il: I in go >d repair, tnis having been the lee of an archbdiiv.p before the revolution, whofe patron and bi- ihop, Aiungo, abi at the year 500* Jies buried in that part of it called tiv barony, now lcrving entirely for the ule of the common people* It i? divided into two other churches, cue over the other, called the upper and lower. Its feveral rows of pillars* very high towers, with a lofty fpire, the r-.i^lieft in Scotland, riling from a fquare tower in the niiduie of eh** crofs, are of furpniing archi- tecture. Here are convenient apartments for t ,e meet- ing of the prefbytery, which confift of nineteen parifhes, and alfo of the provincial fynod of Glafgow and Air, which is comp. f d of on hundred twenty-feven parifhes or (even prefbytet its. The cathedral churchy-yard is the common b.iryin^-^round. I mm hence to the river is an ex.te.nt of about a mile, and half of that 'upon a de- icent. Here are feveial hofpitals or alms-houfes, and many ornamental fpires* The ruinous caftle near the cathedral was the palace of tne archbifhop, who was once legal lord of the city, .and fenced in with a very high wall of hewn ftone, from which is a fine profpeft into the city. Here is an univerfity ; in which indeed there is only one college, but a ftately fabric, confifting of two iarge fquares of very noble ftone buildings, and adorned with a high tower, turrets, and feparated from the reft of the town by a very high wall. The front towaids the city is of beautiful artichefture and hewn Hone. It was founded in 1453, by James II. of Scot- land, and the following year bifhop William Turnbull erected the college at his own expence. Its privileges granted by Pope Nicholas V. the fame as thole of Bo- nonia in Italy, were confirmed by fucceeding princes, and benefactions befitles made it by the parliaments and nobility of Scotland, particularly the earl of Dundonald, the archbifhops, and the city of Glafgow ; the ground on which it ftands, with fome adjacent fields, having been given it by the family of Hamilton, and particu- larly two very handfome exhibitions for the like number of ftudents of divinity for four years, the latter part of Which they are appointed to ftudy at Leyden in Holland. On this foundation was the ingenious Mr. Macknight, mimftcr of May bole, and author of the New Harmony of the Gofpels ; as alfo the late Mr. Lewis Chapman, miniftcr of Petty, near Invernefs ; Mr. M'Laurin, the mathematician, and many others. Its members are a rector, a dean oi faculty, a principal, who teaches di- vinity, three philofophy profefiors or regents, profefiors of the civil and canon law, mathematics, &c. Here are well planted walks, and pleafan-t gardens, particu- larly a phyfic-garden. The library is well fbocked with books and manufcripts, efpecially through the care of the learned Dr. Fall, afterwards prebend of York. The ftudents lodge in the college, which at Edinburgh, Sec. they do not; and the principal and profefiors -have handfome apartments there, and good falaries. During epifcopacy the archbifhops were perpetual chancellors, which honour is now enjoyed by the duke of Montrofe, and the principal afts as vice-chancellor. The famous Rutherford author of Lex Rex, Cameron, &c. were educated here. Profefibr bimpfon, who of late years made fo great a noife, and was fo fubtile a cafuift in the Sociniau controverfy, taught divinity here ; till the church-judicatories fufpetided him for life. Several Roman ftones, with inferiptions dug up in 1740 near Kirkentilloch, have been added to the antiquities in this univerfity. Though the Clvde be navigable up to the town for fmall veflels, yet Newport-Glafgow, nearer the mouth of the river, ufed to be the harbour for thofe of large burthen, where there is a good quay or wharf, and a cuftom-houfe. But at prefent the merchants have en- tered into an aflbciation to make the river navigable as far as the city for fhips of large burden. Here alfo, or at Greenock, fhips are repaired, fitted out, and laid up. Lighters carry the goods to Glafgow, where is carried on a confiderable foreign trade, the merchants of this A N D. ±99 city fefrding about fifty fail every year to Virginia, New England, and other Britifh colonies in America ; for which they are more commodioufly fituated than Lon- don, and the paffige much fhorter, and in tiie time of war fafer, as they ftretch away, when out of the Clyde- firth, diieftly north-weft for the capes of Virginia. They have lately purchafed a harbour on the firth of Forth, . near Alloa, for refhipping their fugars and tobacco to Holland, Germany, and the Baltic. Their home-ma- nufactures are very fine plaids, both filken and woollen, called Glafgow plaids, and ftriped muflins for aprons, great quantities of which are fent all over Great Britain, and the American colonies, where they fetch a good price, befides various forts of linen manufactures. , Here are houfes for refining of fugars and diftilling fpir.its from melaffes. Their herring filhery is very confiderable ; and they cure that fifh fo well as to be reckoned of equal goodnefs with the Dutch herrings. Upon the malt-aft extending to Scotland, a meafure which was then generally difiiked, but produced no bad eft'efts, only that the people made an infurredtion in this city, and deftroyed the houfe and furniture of their reprefentative ; n parliament, Daniel Campbell, Efq; to the amount of abo\e6oool. fterling damage, who voted for it, which the town was obliged to make good; and the remainder of the two-pennies aft for the term of thirteen years to come of it, which they enjoyed, was appropriated by parliament for that purpofe, till the faid fum was paid. In the ninth year of the prefent reign this two-pennies aft was renewed for twenty- five years longer, and the villages of Gorbels and Newport- Glafgow included. Glafgow gives title of earl to the Boyle family. Ever fince the Reformation this city has been famous for its fteady attachment to the proteftant religion, as alfo their firm adherence to revolution-principles and the Hanover fucceffion. In the infurreftion of 1715 they fent a body of volunteers to ferve the king againft the earl of Marr : and in the like disturbance of 1745, the young Cheva- lier and his highlanders levied contributions here, com- pounding their demand of fifteen thoufand pound for five thoufand guineas, which were immediately paid therm The inhabitants are very ftaunch prefbyterians, and remarkable for their ftrift obfervance of the' chriftian fabbath, and the performance of religious duties on it, hardly any ftirring abroad after divine-lervice, from prayers, reading, and finging of pfalms. This city formerly fent a member to the Scottifh par- liament ; but fince the Union it has been joined with Renfrew, Rutherglen, and Dumbarton, which diftrift of royal boroughs fend but one member to the Britifh parliament alternately. In the neighbourhood is a feat of the duke of Montrofe, which family has confiderable eftates and intereft hereabouts. Glafgow lies twenty-five miles north-weft of Lanerk, and forty-two weft of Edinburgh. Latitude fifty-five degrees fifty-fix minutes north longitude, four degrees twelve minutes weft. The next univerfities in Scotland are thofe of Aber- deen. Moft writers concerning Aberdeen have been led into an error, by calling it one city, and one univerfity, whereas it is actually two. viz. Old Aber- deen and New Aberdeen. Old Aberdeen, in Latin Aber- donca, is beautifully fituated on the fouth of the river Don, where it empties itfelf into the German ocean $ was the feat of the bifhop, having a large and ftately cathedral, commonly called St. Alachar's, moft part of which is now deftroyed. It is moreover adorned on the fouth-fide with King's college (fo called from king ; James IV. who affirmed the patronage of it), wherein is a principal and fub-principal, with three regents, or [ profefiors of philofophy, of which the fub-principal is » one. Here are alfo profefiors of divinity, civil law, phy- t fic, humanity, and the oriental languages, that is, for each faculty one. In the church before-mentioned, is 4 a moft ftately monument, erefted to the memory of bifhop Elphinfton, who built moft of it, A.D. 1500} and hard by the church is a library, well furnifhed with good books. A This univerfity is not inferior to any in Scotland; one fide is covered with flate, the reft with lead ; and owes e much 3oo O much of its prefent fplcndor to Mr. Frafer, commonly known by the name of Catalogus. The church, with its turret or fteeple, is of hewn ftone j the top of it is vaulted with a double crofs arch, about which is a Icing's crown, having five coronets, fupported by as many ftone -pillars, and a round globe of ftone, with two gilded croffes clofing the crown. In 1631 it was overturned by a ftorm, but rebuilt foon after in a more ftatcly manner. King Charles I. gave it an endowment for ciaht burfers, out of the revenues of the vacant bi- fhoprics ; from whence this college, and that in the new town, which made up one univerfity, was called the Caroline univerfity, or the univerfity of king Charles. His fon Charles II. alfo, by advice of parliament, in 1672, gave the benefices of vacant churches in feveral dioccfes to this college for feven years. The bull for erecting this univerfity was granted by Pope Alexan- der IV. to king James IV. and William Elphingfton, the above-mentioned bifhop of Aberdeen, procured it as ample privileges as any in Chriftendom, particularly like thofe of Paris and Bononia. The bifhop built moll of the college, and furniihed the great fteeple with ten bells, &c. Over the Don, is a lotty ftone-bridge of one arch. About a mile from hence, is New Aberdeen, filuiteat the mouth of the Dee, as the other i. at the mouth of the Don, and therefore by fome called Aber- deen, and by others Bon Accord, from its motto. New Aberdeen is the capital of the fhenfFdom of that name ; the feat of the fherifF for the trial of caufes, and of the country courts, which are kept in the tolbooth near the great fteeple at the crofs ; it has a prifon and work-houfe. That it had a mint alio formerly, appears by feveral coins prefer ved in the cabinet of the curious, with this mfcrjprion, Urh Abcrdmae. The ftreets are paved with flint, or a hard ftone much like it. At the weft end of it is a little round hill, from the bottom of which there iflues a faring, called the Aberdonian fpaw, becaufe it comes very near the quality of the fpaw water in the bifhopric of Liege. The curious are referred, for a particular account of it, to a treatife written by Dr. William Barclay: This fpaw, and good part of the green near it, is walled round, and has commodious apartments, with a cafcade for the conveniency of bathing both fexes apart. Over the Dee, about a mile from the city, is a famous bridge of feven arches, built of free-ftone, by bifhop Gavin Dunbar. Befides other public buildings, here is a church handfomely built of free-ftone, in the high-ftreet ; and near the port or wharf is a cuftom-houfe. The market-place is very beautiful and fpacious, and the adjoining ftreets very hind fome ; moft of the houfes being built of ftone, and the inhabitants as gay, genteel, and perhaps as rich, as in any city of Scotland. The private buildings are com- monly four ftories high, or more, with handlbme fafhed windows, and gardens and orchards behind them ; fo that the city, at a diftance, looks like a wood. The town is built upon three hills, but the greateft part of it on the higheft, to which is an eafy afcent from the plain. Aberdeen is one of the moft confiderable places in the north of Scotland, either for extent, trade, or beauty of the buildings, both in public and private. Of the firft fort, the chief is the Univerfity or Marifchal college, originally a Franfcifcan monaftery, built by George Keith, carl Marfhal, in the year 1593, and 1 from him called the Mar/hal college j but iince his time, i the city of Aberdeen hath adurned and beautified it with i feveral additional buildings. And fhould the prefent \ exiled family be reftorcd, this feat of themufes might again I rear its head, and flourifh under his aufpices. Here is a t principal, three profeflbrs of philofophy, one of huma f t v V Blty, one of divinity, one of mathematics, and one of phyfic. Add to this, the fchool founded by Dr. Dunn, which has a head mailer, and three ufhers, handfomely endowed ; another fchool for teaching mufic ; St. Ni- cholas church (formerly divided into three churches), built of free-ftone, with a lofty fteeple, covered with lead ; an alms-houfe, and three hofpitals. Nor muft we forget the library, founded at the charge of the city, fupplied with excellent books from the benefactions of feveral learned pcrfons, particularly the late bifhop LAND. Burnet, and furnifhed with mathematical i n ft ru merits.- In this college, MefT. Thomas Biackwell, father and fon, were fucceffively principals, and both writers of fome eminence, efpecially the latter, having wrote The Life of Homer, The Court of Auguftus, Mythohfgy, &c. was an excellent humanift, and had a beautiful feat built on an ifland near the influx of the river Dee. Here the famous Mr. Colin Maclaurin was profeiibr of ma- thematics, till he was called to the univerfity of Edin- burgh, where he died. That learned profeiTor of mathematics, Mr. Stewart, is alfo well known for his commentary on Sir Ifaac Newton's treatifes of curves. Both rivers, Don and Dee, are famous for falmon, of which vaft quantities are taken. Here they make ex- cellent linen, and worried ftockin^s; of which laft ma- nufacture fome are fo fine, as to be fold from twenty to thirty {hillings a pair. Thefe are fent in great quantities into England, Holland, France, &c. New Aberdeen is a royal burgh, and one of the dif- tri£ts w'uh Montrofe, Brechin, Arbroth, and Inverbervy, which find a member to parliament alternately. This city gives title of earl to an ancient branch of the family of Gordon. In this town, as well as at Peterhead, are churches, or, as they are called in Scotland, meet- ing-houfes, where trie liturgy of the Church of England is read. They have alfo feveral fine chapels with organs. The old town muft be very ancient, fince the new is fuppofed upwards of one thoufand two hundied years clJ. Both form two cities independent of each other; but New Aberdeen for trade, wealth, extent, grandeur and learning, is reckoned the third city of Scotland, being only inferior to Edinburgh and Glafgow. In the bay is very good anchoring from feven to nine fa'hom water j but it is a tide-haven, with a very difficult en- trance ; though the river Dee is large, the channel being narrow, and the bar often fhifting ; fo that no fhip of any confequence ventures in without a pilot. As this city fufFcred greatly by the difturbance in Scotland at the Revolution, the debts which is thereby incurred were fo heavy, that, in order to pay them off, a duty of two pennies Scots, or the fixth of a penny fterling, was laid, by the Scottifh parliament in J 695 on every S«'Ots pint of ale and beer fold within the town, and its precincts: and the fame a£t has been continued by the Britifh par- liament, not only for paying off the (aid debt, but for building a new pier on the north fid: of the harbour, for repairing the old pier on the fouth fide, and rebuilding the tovvn-houfe, &c. A fire happening here in 1721, by which the regifters of all wills, judicial deeds, and" other auihentic evidences, were coniumed, two a£ts of parliament pafled in the late reign for fupplying them. As the country has a provincial fynod, comprehending eight prefbytenes, Aberdeen is the name of one, and contains twenty-one parilhes. It lies eighty-four miles north-eaft of Edinburgh, and about feventy fouth-eaft of Invernefs. Latitude fifty-feven degrees, fourteen mi- nutes north longitude, one degree forty-nine minutes weft. The fhire of Aberdeen is a country in the middle di- - vifion of Scotland. It comprehends the feveral dillriiSts of Birfe, Glcntanner, Glenmuichk, Straithdee, Strath- done, the braes or hills of Mar and Cromar, the greateft part of Buchan, Formartm, Garrioch, and Strathboggy. It is bounded by part of Angus and Mearns, or rather by the Dee, and the Granfbain or Grampion hills, on the fouth, by part of Bamff-fhire on the north-weft, by part of Murray on the north, by the German ocean on the eaft, and by the river Spey, and part of Badenoch, on the weft. Templeman makes its dimenfions thirty- feven miles in length, and twenty-eight in breadth ; and the area eleven hundred and feventy fquare miles. As the fouth part contains Mar with its fubdivilions, it was- hence formerly called the (hire of Mar, which gave title of earl to the antient and noble family of Erikme, till forfeited by the rebellion of the late earl in 1 7 1 5. The foil would be fruitful enough, were it properly culti- vated ; it producing corn, particularly barley, rye, and oat-), in abundance, together with fome wheat; alfo pulle, roots and herbs of different kinds. The hilly parts, efpeually Pcunian craigs, where many eagles build 4 their SCOT Land. their nefbj are covered with woods of fir and 03k ; and they have plenty of wild-game, and pafture, &c. They abound in fheep, black, cattle, horfes, and deer. Here are quantities of (potted or variegated marble, lime- ftone, and (late 5 and a fort of ftones peculiar to this country, called Elf-arrow-heads, which feem to be of the flint kind, and are of different fhapes, moftly pointed like fpears. They are from half an inch to two inches long, rough, unpolifhed, and very thin at the edges. In its rivers are found mufiels, containing large pearls of a beautiful colour; and both the rivers and the lea abound with fifh. The air of the country is cool but healthful ; and their common and native firing is peats, turfs, and wood. They have alfo coals from Newcaftle, and other places. The winter is much gentler here, than might be expected fo far north. Here are fprings of ailum water, and veins of ffone, from which allum is boiled. About three miles fouth of New Aberdeen and one mile from the river Dee, the famous Grampian hills be- gins, which divides the whole kingdom of Scotland, and which have been fo much celebrated by antient writers. Mr. Maiiland, one of the molt judicious antiquaries of this age, has brought a very rational proof that the bat- tle fought bv Julius Agricola againft the Caledonian chief called Galgacus, was about eight miles fouth of this place ; and the reafons affigned by him are, that there is the remains of a Roman camp near Stonehaven, about ten miles fouth of Aberdeen, and none to be found in any part of Scotland north of that place. He likewife obierves, that as Julius Agricola returned into H reftia or Angus to wait for his fleet, and that the Ro- man arms never penetrated beyond that bounds. The fifth and laft univerfity in Scotland is that of Edinburgh, founded by James VI. of Scotland, and I. of England 1588, and on the fame fpot where his father was murdered by the earl of Bothwell. This lini- verfity is called king James's college, and has been long celebrated for the ftudy of phyfic, having fix profeflbrs in the different branches of that fcience. It has like- wife profe'Tors of all the other liberal arts, and the ma- giftrates of Edinburgh a£t as its chancellor. In the •other univerfities in Sco'land, the ftudents wear fcarlet gowns, but here they are not diftinguifhed by any par- ticular habit. Edinburgh is the metropolis of all Scotland, and ca- pital of the {hire of its own name, or Mid-Lothian. It was formerly the royal feat of its kings and parlia- ment?, as it is ftill of the fupreme courts of judicature, particularly the court of feilion, confiding of fixteen judges, one of which is flyled lord prefident ; judiciary court, cornmiffury court, &c. The northern Scots, its ancient inhabitants, called it Duned or Dun-eden, i. e. Eden-hill, or the hill of the Edeni, whom Ptolemy, from miftake as fome think, calls Ottodeni for Scottodeni. In Latin it is called Caftrum Puelarum, Edinum, Edi- noduntim, or more latterly Edinburgum. It ftands high ; and among its feveral ftreets is a remarkably bread one, about a quarter of a mile long, to the Nether-bow, with handfome ftone-bcufes on each fide; but fome low Halls upon it, called the Lucken-booths, and the guard - houfe, very much interrupt, if not difgrace it. At the weft end of this ftreet is a very ftrong caftle, or rather citadel, upon a rock, inacceflible on all fides, but at one avenue opening to the faid ftreet ; and this being ftoutly fortified with canon and regular works, the Highlanders in vain attempted it in 1745. Here is a garrifon and governor, in which office was the late ge- neral Gueft at that time. Alfo a royal palace of hewn Bone, where king James I. of England was born. In this place the regalia, records of ffate, and national ma- gazine of arms and ammunition, are kept. Two wells in the rock plentifully fupply the gajrifon with water. This caftle commands a very wide profpeft every way ; and from it Sylifbury craigs to the fouth of the Cani.ongate, and Calton craigs to the north of it having the appearance of wings, gave cccafion to the denomi- nation of Caftrum Alatum. A fteep rock cn the fouth- ca(t iide of the caftle is called Arthur's feat. At the eaft end of the high ftreet is one of the city-gates called the Nelhtrbow, leading directly to the Canongate, and by turning fhort to the left goes down to Leith, a mile oft% which is the port of this city. The Canongate is con* tiguous to the faid gate, as London and Weftminfter are by means of Temple-bar.' Here ftands the royal palace of Holy Rood-houfe, the refidence of the for- mer kings of Scotland, which is now parcelled out to the Scottifh nobility, into apartments called lodgings. The breadth cf Edinburgh from north to fouth is above half a mile, and taking in the fuburbs of the weft-port, Briftow port, Potter-raw, Pleafants, Cannongate, and Calton, it is four miles in circuit, and as populous as any city in Europe for its magnitude. Moft of the new houfes are fix ftories high, and in one part of the Parlia- ment-clofe only, they are thirteen or fourteen* The fronts of the houfes are generally built of ftone, and being parted into tenements, or lands, as they are called, they have as many landlords as ftories, indepen- dent of one another, like the inns of court in London* Between the High-ftreet and Cowgate, a narrow ftreet to the fouth, and running parallel with the former, arc feveral lanes of communication, called wyndsj there are fome alfo on the oppofite fide of the High-ftreet, but generally dark and dirty. This city is inclofed with a fort of wall on every fide except the north, where it isfecured by the North- lough. It has feven gates or ports. The markets here are very well fupplied with all neceflaries, and kept in diftinct places for the particular commodities fold in them. The churches, including the great high kirk, or ancient cathedral of St. Giles, and the chapel in 'the caftle, are reckoned not lefs than twelve, all large and mag- nificent ; and the minifters belonging to them not lefs than twenty-three, who, with fome neighbouring pa- rifhes, form the prefbytery of Edinburgh, confifting of thirty-one members, who meet in the great church, as do likewife the provincial fynod and general affembly, to which laft his Majefty fends down one of the Scottifh nobility to reprefent his perfon, with the title of lord high commiffioner. The Parliament-clofe on the fouth fide of the cathe- dral, where the Scottifh parliament formerly fat, and now the court of feflion, is a handfome fquare, with an equeftrian ftatue of king Charles II. Under the parlia^- ment-houfe is the advocates library, a noble collection of books and manufcripts. On the rifing ground fouth of the Cowgate is the univerfity, with a very good library, where, among many other curiofities, is Bu- chanan's fkull, which is fo thin, that the light may be feen through it. South from the Cowgate is the high fchool for Latin, and in the Fountain-clofe near the Nether-bow, is a royal college of phyficiahs. Here are fome hofpitals, the principal of which is Herriot's, a ftately fabric on the fouth fide of the city, and near the Grafs-market, very plentifully endowed by Mr. George Heniot, king James VPs goldfmith, who left for it upwards of eleven thoufand pounds fterling. Befides this is the Trinity hofpital, St. Thomas's hofpl- two maiden hofpitals, and an infirmary, &c. Of late the inhabitants of Edinburgh have built a very grand exchange oppofite the Parliament-clofe, the mer- chants meeting before this in the open High-ftreet near St. Giles's, v/hiift all manner of tunes were played by the hand with keys upon a fet of bells in the cathedral fteeple, for the fpace of an hour about noon. From a hill three miles oft", fine fpring water is con- veyed by leaden pipes into the city, and ftately fountains erected for that purpofe in the High-ftreet. Edinburgh is governed by a Lord Provoft and four baileis, with a common council of twenty-five peifons chofen annually. Here are fourteen incorporate trades : the train bands confift of fixteen companies, befides three ftanding com- panies of town-guards ; one of whofe captains, named Porteus, who at an execution ordered his men to fire among the fpe&ators, fuffered the dreadful refentment of the populace : for taking him forcibly out of the tol- booth, they hung him up in a few minutes, on a dyer's tree in the Grafs-market. This cataftrophe hap- pened during the regency of the late Queen Caroline, who had reprieved him from fentence of death, which the judiciary court had paffed upon him. 4 H The -02 SCOT This city has the two pennies Scots aft for the carrying on their public works, which they employ to great ad- vantage. They drive a good trade here, and fend one member to the Britifh parliament. The fite of Edin- burgh being rockv, is the occafion of great inconvenien- ces for want of neceiTary-houfes ; but thefe the governors of the place take as much care of as poffible to prevent. It lies three hundred artd twenty miles north from London. Latitude fifty-five degrees, fifty-eight minutes north, longitude three degrees weft. Edinburgh being not only the capital town of Mid Lothian, but alfo the centre of the three counties of that name, we fhall here defcribe them in the order they lie. Firft, Eaft Lothian, which- extends about twenty miles in length, and eight in breadth ; and befides Haddington, contains the following towns, viz. Prefton Pans, Tranent, Abeilady, North Berwick, Dunbar; and over-againft Dunbar, about a mile from the Forth, is a hill in the form of a pyramid, which rifes to a furp'rifing height, and at a diftance feems to terminate in a fpire, in which form it appears at about thirty miles diitant. Eaft Lothian is a county where all the ncceflaries of life are to be had in great plenty. The e3rl of Winton had a fine feat here, before he joined in the rebellion 17 15, of whom it is faid he could fee three hundred ploughs tilling the ground from his win- dow, and all on his own eftate. Near a place called Gladfmuir, in this county, the rebels defeated the king's forces under the command of Sir John Cope, 1745* But the greateft curiofity is the Bafs, an ifland within the mouth of the Firth of Forth, a mile from the fouth fhore of Eaft Lothian, and oppofite to the remains of Tantallon cattle, on the north fhore.. It is- inacceflible every way, except by one narrow pafiage, which only a finnle perfon can pafs at a time, and that not without the help of a cable or crane. At the top of that paf- fage was a fort ; but neglected lince the Revolution. It was but flightly fortified ; rather to prevent its being made a retreat for pirates, than for any ufe it could be of to command the fea, the entrance of the Firth being fo wide, that fhips can go in and out without the leaft annoyance from the Bafs. The whole ifland is a mile in circuit. In the times of king Charles II. and his brother James II. it was a fort of ftate-prifon for the weftern people called Cameronians, particularly thofe Prefbyterians who had been in arms at Bothwell-brigg againft the government. After the Revolution a defpe- rate crew got pofieffion of it ; and having a boat, which they hoifted up on the rock or let down at pleafure, took a great many coafting vefiels ; and held out the laft of any place in Britain for king James. But their boat being either feized or loft, and for want of the ufual fupplies from France, they were obliged to furrender. The Solan gecfe are the principal inhabitants of this ifland ; a fowl which is found no where in Britain except here, in fomeof the IcfTer Orkney ifles, and that of Ailzy in the mouth of Clyde. They come periodi- cally, as the fwallows and woodcocks do. They moflly feed on herrings, and therefore come juft before or with them, and go away with them alfo ; though they do not follow, the fhoals, going all away northward, but whither is not known. The neighbouring inhabitants make a great profit both of the flefh and feathers of their young, which are taken from their nefts by a p?rfon let down the rock by means of a rope. At the top of the Bafs is a frefh-water fpring, with a fmall warren for rabbits; and on it is pafturage for about thirty fheep : but the foil at the bottom of it is almoft worn through by the violence of the fea. It was pur- cVafed by king Charles II. Befides the S lan geefe, here arc incredible flocks of other fowl ; fo that, in May and June, the furface of the ifland is almoft covered with their nefts, eggs, and young. The Bafs rifes very high above the fea, in the form of a cone. It lies forty-five miles eaft of Edinburgh, latitude fifty-fix degrees three minutes north, longitude two degrees twenty minutes weft. Haddington, Hadina, the fhire-town of the laftmen- L A N E>. tioned county, is a royal burgh, which, with Jedburgh,; Dunbar, North-Berwick, and Lauder, fends a member alternately to the Britifh parliament. It lies pleafantly on the river Tine, over which is a handfome bridge of three large arches. It is a well-built town, with loine very good houfes, the ftreets well paved, has a good market, and the feat of a prefbytery, confifling of fixteen parishes. Here are the ruins of an old nunnery, which was founded by prince Henry, fon of St. David by his wife Ada, from which the latter town feems to derive its name. It has a good church of hewn ftonc, to which is contiguous the chapel of the Lauderdale family, with their's and other very noble tombs ; but the church-choir is down, roof and all. The poft- houfe here is a very good inn, and ufed to be reckoned inferior to none on the London road ; 2nd this now is commonly the cafe over all the great roads of Scotland. About two miles from this town is New-Milns, a fine feat belonging to Francis Charters, Efq; grandfon of the late colonel Charters, In the minority of queen Mary, the Englifh feized and fortified this town, and flood out a long fiege under Sir George Wilford, againft Monfieur Deflie, who 'attacked it with ten thoufand French and Germans, which occafioned confiderable actions in the neighbourhood. But at laft Henry earl of Rutland coming with a great army, raifed the fiege, and, after levelling the works, conducted the Englifh in it home. It gives title of earl to one of the Hamilton family, who have large eftates and fine feats in the neighbourhood. No part in Scotland is furrounded with more little towns and houfes of the nobility and gentry than this ; among- which Yefter, the ufual refi- dence of the marquis of Tweeddale, is one of the moft pleafant, and has very fine and large plantations round it. Haddington lies eighteen miles eatt of Edinburgh. II. Mid-Lothian, or. the fhire of Edinburgh, like all other places adjoining to the metropolis, is the beft cultivated of any in Scotland ; were it not that, inftead of hedges, the ground is for the moft part inclofed with ftone walls, which prefents a difagreeable profpec/t. The town of Dalkeith, in this county, is famous for a fine feat belonging to the duke of Buccleugh, a de- fcendant of the unfortunate duke of Monmouth, be- headed in the reign of James II. It is one of the moft elegant feats in Scotland, and adorned with a great number of fine paintings : it is about five miles fouth of Edinburgh. About three miles north of Dalkeith is the caftle of Craigmillar,. noted for being the refi- dence of Mary Queen of Scots, when fhe contrived the murder of her hufband lord DarnJy, 1566. About five miles fouth-weft of Edinburgh is Rofiin, where is a ftately and fpacious Gothic chapel, and one of the moft curious pieces of workmanfhip in Europe, there being not two cuts of the fame fort in the whole ftrudure. It was founded in the year 1440, by the famous William St.Cl&ir, prince of Orkney and duke of Oldenburg, &c. who had erected many other public works, and was diftinguifhed for the honours conferred on him by the greateft princes in Europe. Each but- trefs on the outfide is adorned with ftatues as big as the life ; others are in the niches, and on each fide cf the windows, which are fpacious. The moft curious part is the choir vault, and that called the Prince's pillar. It had anciently a provoft and feven canons regular, with confiderable revenues from the lairds of Rofiin. The principal fea-port town in this county is LeUh. It is governed by its own bailiff", but fubjecl to the jurifdidtion of Edinburgh, which is *a mile fouth-weft of it, and is the port-town of that capital. It lies on the Firth of Forth, upon a river called the Water of Leith, which falls into the Firth on the weft fide of the town, foiming a good mole or harbour, very much frequented. Here the palTage-boats from Kinghorn on the Fife-fide ufually come from the North every tide, and return again regularly, though above feven miles over, and a very rough dangerous ferry. It continues of that breadth for five or fix miles weft, but grows narrower beyond Cramond, and Queen's-ferry is not above two miles over. During queen Mary's minority, Leiih was fortified and defended by a French garrifon, wheij SCOT L A ft t). when the nobility, &c. of Scotland, who Hood up for their liberties and the reformation, called in the aflift- ance of queen Elizabeth to drive out the French. In 1544, John Dudley, vifcount Lifle, landed here with two hundred fhips, wafted Edinburgh, and at his return burnt this town. It foon recovered, and M. de Deflie, general for Francis II. king of Fiance, who had married the aforefaid queen Mary, fortified it regularly, with a defign, it was faid, to conquer the whole ifland : upon which the Englilh, at the defire of the proteftant ftatcs, fending an army under lord Grey, foon forced the French to return home. Moft part of the town was burnt during the fiege, and all the works afterwards demolifhed. The entrance into the harbour is made good by a long jet, mole or pier on the eaft fide, and hy ftron * ranges of piles, break-waters or counter-piers, though not fo long on the weft fide ; all which are kept in excellent repair; fo that the harbour is free and open, notwithi'canding a flat fhore and huge fwcll of the fea. A beacon or maft is fet up at low-watermark, for the conveniency of navigation. The river divides the town into two parts, being joined together by a handfome fcone-bridge of two" arches. On the fouth fide leaJing from the pier towards the bridge, is a fpacious handfome ftreet and quay, firmly wharfed up with fto./e and fenced with piles, and the fhipping lay their broadfides clofe to its wall or wharf. The build- ings oppofite to, and parallel with the water, are very lofty and handfome, being generally about fix ftories high, and large fafli windows. Here arelikewife com- modious cellars and warehoufes, for -laying up goods ; the merchants of Edinburgh having the bulk of all their commodities here, in order to be ready for carriage, either by land or fea : fo that Leith is not improperly called the warehoufe as well as the port of the city. Here are glafs-houfes for making all forts of green-glafs, particularly bottles; alio a fugar bakehoufe and faw- mills for cutting timber, flitting deals, and the like. That called North Leith lies on the other fide. of the harbour, where fome large fhips have been built, there b.^ing docks both for building and repairing of them. Here are the ruins of the citadel built by Oliver Crom- well, and demolifhed by Charles II. Of thefe briga- dier Macintofh of Borlum took pciTeflion, with his Highlanders, in the year 1715, only for one night: for finding that their friends were not in a condition to join them, and the king's troops preparing to attack them, they marched oft* to the earl of Winton's feat. This was at the time they had formed a correfpondence with certain centinels of Edinburgh caftle, for' betray- ing it into their hands, and for which fome were after- wards hanged. On the fouth fhore of the Firth, and two miles above Leith to the weft, alfo to Preftonpans downwards, and other towns, there is good fifhing for oyfters and muflels, which not only fupply Edinburgh and the adjacent country, but many boat-loads of them are carried to Newcaftle upon Tyne, &c. whence they return with glafs-bottles, window-glafs, and other heavy goods. The cuftom-houfe is at South Leith, but the commiffioners have their office at Edinburgh. Leith was formerly a great check to the capital when king James IV. was there, who, to keep the citizens in better obedience, often threatened to remove his palace and court of judicature hither. The citizens of Edin- burgh often come hither in coaches or a-foot, for a walk on the mole, or other recreations; and at the numerous inns are very good accommodations, and at a reafonable rate. The fea-faring people, and thofe concerned with them, are at Leith all alert and bufy. It is a pleafant fiiort walk from the Nether-bow down-hill to Leith, and on one fide of the road are gibbets with malefactors hanging in chains. The hackney coaches carry pafien- . gers at certain hours to and from Leith at a very mode- rate expence. Latitude fifty-five degrees fifty-eight mi- nutes north, longitude two degrees fifty-nine minutes weft. III. Linlithgowfhire, or Weft Lothian, commences at the river Almon, about five miles weft of Edinburgh. It has the Firth of Forth on the north, on the north- weft it is bounded by Surling-fhire, and on the fouth by Laherk. It abounds in coals, lime-ftone, and white fait, belides corn and pafturage. In the reign of James IV. of Scotland, a mine was difcovered in this county, which produced a great deal of lilver. The earl or Hopeton has a feat in this count? reckoned the fineft in Scotland. It ftands about a mile fouth of the Forth, near the ancient village of Aber- corn, where the Roman wall commenced which reached to the Clyde. It is built much in the form of the Queen's palace, and has a fine profpect- of the Forth, and all the country on each fide. The county town is Linlithgow. It is vulgarly called Lithquo, and the fame which Ptolemy always ftiles Lindum, as lying upon the fide of a lake. It is one in the diftricT: of royal burghs with Lanerk; Selkirk,; and Peebles, which alternately fend one member to the Britifh parliament. Here is a royal palace, in an ifland towards the middle of the lake, which ftands on a hill, with an afcent of feveral fteps in the form of an amphi- theatre. The palace is a magnificent ftrudture of hewn ftone, begun by former kings of Scotland, and finifhed by king James V. The porch bear.* the name and arms ot James V. On the gate of the outer court are the arms of Scotland, enriched with the orders of the Garter, St. Andrew, St. Michael, and the Golderi Fleece ; of all which orders he was a companion, being fovereign of the fecond ; the firft he had from his uncle king Henry VIII. and the two la ft from the king of France and the emperor, then king of Spain. In the inner court, which is. larger than that at Hampton- court, there is a very curious fountain adorned with ftatues and water-works, erected by the fame king James V. as upon the fountain is the arms of Scotland and France in one efcutcheon. At each of the four corners of this court is a tower with fine apartments. Clofe by the palace is a church, commonly called St; Michael's, of very excellent workmanfhip, with a lofty fteeple ; to which the late earl of Linlithgow added an extremely neat chapel. This church is large, with a handfome feat for the king. There is a fmall and eafy defcent from the palace to the town of Linlithgow, where is a large|fquare, in the middle of which is another curious fountain, exceeding in all refpects that in the inner court of the palace, and running at fo many dif- ferent places, that about a dozen may be ferved with water at once. Qn the fouth fide of this fquare is the Tolbooth, very neatly built of hewn ftone, having a lofty fteeple, in which are bells and a clock. Here the fheriff and magiftrates hold their refpective courts : and it is the feat of a prefbytery, confifting of nineteen pa- rifh.es. It has a large ftreet, about half a mile long, from one end of the town to the other, and adorned with fair buildings j on each fide are divers wynds or lanes, which lead to feveral pleafant gardens. The lake itfelf, which lies north of the town, is a mile in leng h, and a quarter of a mile in breadth, abounding with perch, trouts, and other forts of fifh ; and between it and the palace are very fine terrace-walks. This town appears to have great bufinefs, with a harbour for all kinds of fhipping, near the caftle of Biacknefs ; where is a cuf- tom-houfe, with other buildings for the ufeof merchants. Here is a conliderable manufacture of linen, for white- ning and bleaching of which the water of that lake 19 reckoned of fo extraordinary a quality, that a vail deai of linen is brought hither from other parts of the country. This town has had the two-penny Scotch act. on ale fince 1722, and it was renewed in 1733. This town gave the title of earl to the Levingfton family, who were hereditary keepers of the palace, and king's bailiff here: among other titles, they had that of hereditary conftable of Blacknefs-caftle. But the laft earl of Linlithgow and Calender forfeited it in the year 1716. Tne earl of Muray, who was regent of Scotland in the minority of his nephew king James VI. was murdered here, by a mufket-bullei wnich one James Hamilton, of Botl.i- well-haugh, (hot at him out of a window, as he was riding through the town; to which inhuman act he had been inftigated by the Popifti fadlion in Scotland, who were for reftoring the then dethroned queen JVlary. In the palace above-mentioned king James V. called a chapter SCOT L A N DJ a chapter of his nobles, knights companions, and added a collar of thyme and rue to the order of St. Andrew, enjoining the thiftle to be worn on their mantles in the center of the crofs; upon which he changed the motto * En defence, to Nemo me impune laceffit ;" and or- dered a throne for the fovereign, and twelve Halls for as many knights of the order, to be erected in St. Michael's church : but on his fudden death after the battle of Sol- v/ay, and the troubles which enfued, this order lay dor- mant, till king James VII. revived it in a blue ribbon ; ciucen Anne reftored it to the green : and his late ma- jefty king George I, publifhcd ftatutes for it. This pa- lace is the lcaft decayed of any in Scotland. In the neighbourhood of this town are feveral monuments of antiquity ; as an ancient order at Kipps, arid near it fe- ver*! large ftones eredted in a circle with remains of old camps, great heaps of ftones and antique graves, being near Severus's wall, which began at Abercorn, four miles north-caft from Linlithgow, and running crofs the country well to the Firth of Clyde, ended at Kilpatric siear Dunbarton; and in the neighbourhood alfo are the two Durti pacis. Linlithgow lies eighteen miles weft of Edinburgh, and twelve eaft of Stirling. It was in St. Michael's church in this town 1 513, that an aged man dreiTed in green came to James IV. of Scotland, whilft he was at vefpers, and told him that if he proceeded on his expedition againft the Englifh, it would prove fatal both to him and his kingdom. As loon as the king came out of the church he enquired for the man, but could not find him. The king perfifted in his refolution, and in a few weeks after was flain at the battle of Flowden. About four miles from Linlith- gow was the famous monument of antiquity, vulgarly called Arthur's Oven. It was a Roman temple or altar fuppofed to be eredled to the memory of one of their commanders, who had been killed near the wall of Agricola, and buried at this place. Oppofite the Lcthians is Fifefnire. It was anciently called the fhire of Rofs, which name is ftill preferved in Kinrofs, i. e. the head of Rofs, and alfo in Culrofs, i. e. the back part of Rc.O-, as the Highland words Kaan and Cuul import. The name of Fife it had, they fay, from one Fifus a nobleman ; to whom Kenneth II. gave it for his great fervices againft the Pidts in 840. His pofterity were firft called* Thanes of Fife, which feems to have been the firft title of nobility in that kingdom, and afterwards created earls by Malcolm III. about the year 1057, anc- endowed them with greater privileges than any other earls in the country. Of thefe the Great Macduff", who fubdued the tyrant Macbeth, was the firft, whofe pofterity had the privileges of plac- ing the king at his coronation in the chair, heading the vanguard of the king's army, and of compounding for murder with cattle or money ; of which Macduff's crofs in Abernethy, in Perthfhire, not Murrayland, is a monument denoting king's minifters, as is ftill retaine& in Denmark. The Sibbalds of Balgonie, and upon failure of that family, the earls of Rothes, were heredi- tary fheriffs of Fifefhire, till this, with the other ju- rifdidtion of Scotland, v/as by a late adf of parliament abforbed in the crown. Fifefhire is a fine fruitful pe- ninfula, fituated between the Firth of Forth and that of Tay ; the former dividing it from the Lothians on the fouth, and the latter from Strathern, the Carfe of Gowry, and the fhire of Angus, on the north, and alfo from part of Perthfhire and Clackmannanfhire on the north- weft. It is bounded on the weft by the Ochil-hills, Kinrofsfhire, and part of Perthfhire; and has the Ger- man ocean on the eaft. It is commonly reckoned thirty- two miles long, and about feventeen broad. The eaft part is level, and the weft more mountainous. The north and fouth parts are very fruitful in corn, and full of fmall towns, but none of them fo flourifhing as their fituation would promife, with good bays and harbours; but the middle is more proper for pailure, there being abundance of cattle, efpecially fheep, the wool of which is much valued, as are alfo the hides of their black cattle, deer, and goats, which turn to a good account, i On the fouth fide, towards the coad of the Forth, they have many coal-pits, that produce the Scotch coal ; alfo feveral falt-pans, where they make very good white fait.- The Ochil-hills on the weft afford good pafture, inter- mixed with corn-fields; and between them arc pleafant fruitful valleys. At Dalgate is a quarry of excellent free-ftone ; and near the water of Ore they find lead, as alfo numbers of fine cryftals of various colours a: the Bin (Byne) a peak of the Ochi'-mountains, and at Orrocfc (Orerock) a craig on the water of Ore. Here alfo are mineral firings, as the Spa at Kinghorn and Bal- griggy. Its principal rivers are the Levcn, ifFuuig from* a lough of its name, and the Eden, both abound- ing with falmon, &c. The little towns, moftly royal burghs, on this coaft of the Forth are at leaf): a nurfery for feamen ; and the fea, belides variety of white fifh, herrings being catched in great quantities in Auguft and September, yields plenty of oyfters, and other fhell- fifh. No fhire in Scotland fends fo many members to the Britifh parliament; for befides the reprefentative for the county, it deputes three more for the like number of diffridts of royal burghs, only that of Stirling and Queensferry are included" in one of them ; and are in number thirteen royal burghs, eleven of which are all on the coaft, but Dumfermling and Cowpar in the middle of the country, befides orher towns of note : and in it are four prefbyteries, namely Cowpar, St. An- drew's, Kirkaldy, and Dumfermling. This fhire has alfo more nobility inhabiting it than any other part of Scotland : among other feats inland, are Kinrofs, Lef!y, Melvil, and Balgony; but the royal palace of Falkland is in ruins, as alfo the royal palace of Dumfermling. Fifefhire is almoft in the form cf a peninfula, and con- tains more fea port towns than any other county in Scot- land ; and the interior part is likewife extremely popu- lous. There are many Roman camps, befides Danifh antiquities all over Fifefhire. Near Aberdour in this county, the Danes were totally defeated by the Scots in the year 970, and a monument eredted, upon which was an infeription, teftifying that the Danes had bound themfelves by oath never more to invade Scotland. At Kinghorn in this county, king Alexander III. the Jaft heir male of the Canmore family, was killed by a fall from his horfe 1285, which occafioned a war that laftcd above forty years. Angus, though commonly fo called, and by the ge- nuine Scots ./Eneia, as by Buchanan Angufia, yet in the rolls of parliament it is always called Forfar, from its country-town of the fame name. It is one of the fhires in the middle divifion of Scotland, or in the north of Scotland, in contradiftindtion to the fouth. It is divided from Brae-mar on the north, by the ridge of the Binchinnin mountains. It has the firth of Tay to the fouth, which parts it from Fife, along which firth or bay, and the German ocean, fome part of it lies to the eaft. The water of ^Tarf, and a line drawn from thence to the water if North-efk, feparate it from the \ & fliire of Mearns to the riorth aryl north-eaft, and it is ! ' divided by a line twenty-feven miles in length, from Perthfhire, and the diftridl of Gowry, on the weft and north-weft. It is twenty-nine miles from eaft to weft, and fixteen and a half where broadeft, from north to/ fouth, according to fome ; but Templeman makes it ' thirty-four in length, and twenty-fix in breadth, with an area of five hundred and fifty fquare miles. This di- rerfity of dimenfions may poflibly arife from the former being computed in Scottifh miles, which are generally- long, and vary according to the different places in Scot- land where they are reckoned ; and the latter in meafur- ed Englilh miles, are near thefe. Angus feems to be marked in the maps as a grand diftridt. of Forfarfhire, and is that part of it which lies contiguous to the Firth of Tay. The fhire of Fcrfar, with regard to its civil government, for which the crown now nominates and appoints a fhenff", who has been admitted an advocate at Edinburgh, comprehends Angus with its pertinents, namely, Glen-ila, Glen-efk, and Glenproffin. Th« fhire of Forfar or Angus, by the articles of the Union, ' fends SCOTLAND, fends ofte memfcer to the Britifh parliament. With re- gard to the ecclefiaftical matters, whilft Scotland was under epifcopacy, part of Angus and Mearns confti- tuted the diocefe of Brechin, as Forfar did a prefbytery then, and flill continues fo, fince Picfbyterianifm has been eftablilhed after the Revolution. Angus and Mearns, in conjunction, form now a provincial fynod, which coniifts of fix prefbyteries, and thofe of eighty- five parifhes. According to the divifion of Scotland by the Romans, Angus was a part of Old Caledonia ; and it was anciently divided between the Scots and Pidts ; the latter of which pollened the low champaign part next to the fea, and the former the highlands, namely, that part of the Grampian mountains and interjacent valleys which lie in this fhire. But upon the utter fub- veifion of the PicTfh monarchy, by a great battle which went againft that people, in the reign of Kenneth II. king of Scotland, it came wholly into the hands of the victorious Scots. Gordon in his Itinerarium Septeatiorale through An- gus takes notice of more Daniih antiquities in this vounty than in any other in Scotland. Before the extirpation of the Picls in 839, the feat of the Scottifh fovereignty feems to have been confined to Argylefhire and the weflern iflands, but after that period we find them conftantly fettled in Angus. It was at Gtamis in this county that Kenneth III. contrived the fcheme of fetting afide the antient manner of fuc- ceeding to the crown; and was afterwards murdered by a lady at Fettercairn, a few miles diftant. At a lake near Forfar, ^Malcolm II. fon of the above Kenneth was murdered 1032, at the inftigation of fome of the pre- tenders to the royal authority ; and there it was that the famous Macbeth murdered king Duncan, and took pofieflion of the throne. It was likewife at Dunfinan in Angus, that Malcolm Canmore defeated Macbeth in l°57- This fhire, particularly in the low parts, and towards the coaft, produces wheat, and all other forts of grain, as barley or bear, oats, rye, peafe, vetches or fitches, and thef'e in very great abundance ; with large quanti- ties of hemp and flax. It is beautifully diverlified with large hills, fruitful dales, lakes, forefts, paftures, and meadows; and beautified with many caftles, noblemen's or gentlemen's feats ; the forts, if any, being now only a heap of ruins. Here are feveral quarries of free-ftone •and flate, in which the inhabitants drive a confiderable trade. It is a very good country all along the. coaft; but fo narrow, that in fome places it is not much above five miles broad, when one comes to high hills, which run in a chain to the weft and north, particularly the above-mentioned Grampian mountains, which are inha- bited by Highlanders. In thefe are mines of lead, par- ticularly near the cattle of Inner-mackie, and plenty of iron ore, near the wood of Dalboggy. The higher grounds, called the Brads, which that word in Erfe properly fignifies, abound with hart, hind, roe-buck, due, and wild fowl : and their falmon-trade turns to a very good account, both in kits, in the fame manner as pickled at Newcaftie, but more efpecially asfalmon are falted white in barrels, many lafts of which (twelve bar- rels making a laft) are fent up the Streights, and to other Romifh countries in Lent. It gives title of earl to the noble family of Douglas, duke of this laft name, who was hereditary lord lieutenant of the fhire before the late Bcitifh a£t, which, for a valuable confideration, has verted this and the like family-privileges of Scotland in the crown. But before this, however, the flier ifFa'Ity was in the king's difpofal, which is now commonly given to a Scottifh advocate, as hath been before ob- ierved. One of the former earls of Angus hearing a re- bellion againft king James V. defended the cattle of Tantallon againft him. Some time before this, the Scot- tifh nobility, at the head of whom was one of the earls of Angus, took the minions of king James III. forcibly out of his court, and hanged them over Lauder-bridge, near the royal burgh of the former name. A late author (ATaitland), writing of this his native country, obferves that the gentry of it, who are very numerous, were 79 univerfally enemies to the Union with England ; anrj not fo much Prefbyterian, as they are in the fouthern parts of the kingdom. But with regard to both thefe particulars, the averlion againft fuch things being com- monly local and tempo. aiy, the keennefs of the fatire muft be confiderably abated, both in Angus and .other parts of Scotland, in the fouth and north from a luccef- fion of years^elapfing fince the eftablifhmcnt of the Union and piefbyterianifm, behdes many other concurrent and intervening caufes, which contribute not only to com- bat ftrong prejudices, but even to reconcile men's mind3 to defigns of national utility : and if not altogether to national uniformity in religion ; yet even the latter too at length taLes place, both among the gentry and com- monalty ; and this is well known to be the cafe at prefent. The county-town, as has been mentioned above, is Forfar ; but Dundee is the town of the greateft note in the whole fhire. Befides thefe is Montrofe, Abcrbro- thock or Arbroth, Brechin, and a remarkable place cal- led Brochty-craig. The next county on the weft is Perthfhire, of which Perth is the capital ; it is a large and plentiful country, bounded on the north and north-weft by Badenoch and Lochabar, on the weft and fouth-weft by Argylefhire, Lenox, and Dunbartonfhire ; on the fouth by Clack- mananfhire, part of Stirlingfhire, and the river and firth of Forth ; on the fouth-eaft by Kinrofs-fhire and Fife j and on the Eaft by Angus. Its greateft length is feven- ty-three miles, and greateft breadth fifty-nine, including the fubdivifions of Monteith, Broadalbin, Athol, Strathe- rin, part of Gowry, and Perth Proper. It abounds both in corn and pafture ; the former in the lower grounds, and the latter in the higher, efpe- cially that commonly called the Carfe of Gowry. It is interfperfed with groves, fruit-trees, woods, rivers, and lakes. The principal rivers are, 1. The Tay, one of the largeft in all Scotland, iffuing from a capacious inland lake in Broadalbin. 2. The Keith and the Ern, riling from Lochern in Strathern : all which have a great ac- ceflion of other ftreams by the way. In this county are five prefbyteries, containing eigh- ty-eight parifhes. Perthfhire next to Argylefhire is the largeft in Scot- land, and it was at Scone in this county that the Scot- tifh kings were crowned, in memory of the battle ob- tained by Kenneth II. againft the Picts, which put a period to their fovereignty. At Perth, the county-town, king James I. of Scotland, was barbaroufly murdered 1437 ; and at this place in 1560, the reformers firft begun pulling down the churches. Amongft the many curiofities to be met with in this county, the following account of the river Devon has been fent us by one who viewed it on the fpot. " The river Devon rifes from a few fprings in Perth- fhire, about two miles eaft of the SherifF-mair, where the duke of Argyle defeated the rebel army 17 15, after a courfe of about eight miles fouth-eaft, with a very rapid current, it turns weftward, and empties itfelf into the Forth about two miles below Stirling. On this riv'er about twenty miles north of Edinburgh, there is a ftone arch called by the country people, The Rumbling Bridge, from the great noife made by the water, and which I heard at half a mile's diftance. About half a mile above the bridge tl*e river falls into a narrow chan- nel, and gradually lofes itfelf amongft a prodigious heap of great ftones which have fallen from the adjacent rocks, and form as it were fo many irregular arches; the rocks on each fide are covered with fmall birch trees, and hazel bufhes, fo that the whole forms a very roman- tic appearance. That part where the bridge is built is only thirty feet broad, although fifty yards above the ftream of the river, and at a diftance looks like a plank laid acrofs the roofs of the houfes in a narrow ftreet. About fifty years ago the old bridge fell in, and not one ftone of it was feen afterwards. The prefent bridge was built 1725, as appears by an infeription on the weft fide, 4 I Half O *' Half a mile below the bridge, where the river aflumes its former fhapc, being .relcafed from its confinement amonoft the rocks, I went to fee a curiofity which dif- fers only in magnitude from the cataracts of the Nile; for, according to the defcriptions which I have read of them in Norden, Pocock, &rc the idea I have formed is every way fimilar to what I faw at this place. " The river continues its courfe gradually, but more fwift as it approaches nearer to a rock, over which it falls into another bed, deftined for its reception. The current is fo rapid, and the fall almoft perpendicular, that at a little diftance one would imagine it a fpout projecting; from the rock. The noife was fo loud, and the appearance fo dreadful, that it brought to my mind thofe celebrated lines of Shakelpear, — i How fearful, And dizzy 'tis to caft ones eyes fo low ! The crows and choughs, that wing the midway air, Shew fcarce fo grofs as beetles. . .- I'll look no more, a T Left my brains turn And the deficient fight topple down headlong. ' " The people eallthis cataract, the Carious Lin (i. e.) the Witches Pool, a name given to it I fuppofc in thofe times of ignorance and prieftcraft when the clergy found it their intereft to propagate the ftories of hobgob- lins, &cc. " About a quarter of a mile fouth of the river, Iwent to fee a cave, very ingenioufly cut in a hard folid rock, called by ihe inhabitants the Witches Chamber. Near the upper part of a rifing ground, a very fteep precipice prefenis itfelf, to which you afcend by fleps formed of ftor.es, which have apparently fallen from the rock at different times. At the lower part of the rock, there is flight of ten fteps, and cut with great regularity, o examine the workmanfhip of the fteps, I was obliged to remove fome earth with which they were covered ; but how great was my furprize when I was fliewn a door which led into one of the handfomeft chambers I had ever feen in fuch a place. The door meafured three feet in height, and two feet broad, but from the appearance of the floor within, the palTage has been much higher formerly. The cave. is exactly twelve ieet broad, and fixteen in length : there is a place cut for a fire, and a chimney cut through the rock, fixteen •feet or upwards, by which, with the door, light is con- veyed into the apartment. At one fide, and adjoining to the chimney, is a place large enough for a bed. Great art and induftry had been ul'ed before it was com- pleted, and I think it could not be the refidence of any ordinary perfon, and it was. evident to me that it had .been cut out of the rock many ages ago, I thought it was pofliblc that there might be fc me traditional account amongft .the people, which, although difguifed with fiction, might lead to fome probable conjecture ; but all was in vain. However, I believe it to have been defigned for fome perfon, who, for reafons now un r known, chofe to retire from the noil'e of a tumultuous world, and probably [long before the eftablifhment of ■chriftianity in thofe parts,' as I could not find any marks of crofles, &c. but on the walls, which is generally the cafe in all the hermitages which I have feen. I have been the more particular concerning this peice of anti- quity, as it is neither taken notice of by Horfley in his Britannia Romanoium, nor even by Gordon in his Icine- rarium Septentiorale." The county town is fometimes callled Perth, but more often St. John's Town, from a large church here .dedicated to that faint. This is the capital of all Perth- fhire, in the north of Scotland; is a royal burgh, and in the d;ftnct with Dundee, St. Andrew's, Cowpar, and Forfar, which fend alternately one member to the Britifh .parliament. This is alfo the fe-at of the lherifF, and one iS>f the fecond rank in the kingdom. It is governed by a provoft and bailies, Sec. It is a genteel well-built place, dows on the weft bank of the Tay, burden can come up to it at full tide ljaments have frequently been hftjderi. between two mea- and veflcls of good Here Scottifh par- King Robert ! A M V). Bruce took it from the Englifh in th* reign of king Edward I. after a ftrong rcfiftance. It was the principal place of arms and rendezvous for the Highlanders in 1715, under the eail of Mar; and thither they retired after the defeat at Dunbhin, till the duke of Argyle marched with the king's forces againffc them, upon which they fled with the old Pretender. In 1745 it was fucceffively polTelTed by the Highlanders* under the young Pretender, and the king's troops: upon all which accounts it is faid to have been con- fiderably enriched, and its ftructures, both public and private, greatly increafed. The linen manufacture is much carried on in this place, and vaft quantities of it fhipped for England. The merchants trade confiderably to Norway and the Baltic. It gave title of earl to one of the Drummond family, who was commonly ftiled Duke. The town confifts of two principal ftreets, well paved and builr, running eaft and weft, befides lanes I'outh and north. It is reckoned to be about twenty computed miles north of Edinburgh. Lati'ude fifty-fix degree?, twenty-five minutes north ; longitude three degrees fixteen minutes weft. Argylefhire is the largeft county in Scotland, and much celebrated by the ancient bards. The po> ms of Offian are fuppofed to have been written in this place j and it is remarkable, that the Roman arms never pene- trated into any part of it. It is fometimes called the fhire of Inverary, belonging to the Weft highlands, in the middle divifion of Scotland. This country, which was the fiift feat of the Scots, when they landed from Ireland with Fergus their king (if .that was the firft fet- tlement in the country), did, together with Perthfhire and the weftern iflands, conftitute the kingdom of the Scots, or Highlanders ; while the reft of Scotland was under the Picts and Romans. It is called in Latin Ar- gathelia, Argalia, from Argathel, according to Moll's Geographical Syftem, or Ar-gwithil, (i.e.) ar upon or near, and.Gwithil the lrifh, becaufe it lies towards Ire- land, whofe inhabitants were called by the Britons Gwithil and Gnothel : but it would rather feem to be from the Erfe Ard-gael, (i. e.) the high grounds of the Scots, Ard denoting height, and Gael the Scots high- landers, as they are ftill called in their own language, Klannah-gael. Argylefhire, befides that properly fo called, compre- hends the following diftricts and iflands : namely, Cowcl, Lorn, Knapdale, Cantyre, and Afkeodmlh, all on the continent, with the iflands of Ua ; to the weft lie the I'mall ones of. Colon fa, Oron.fa, and Jura; to the north of which is. Scarba, Lefmore, or Leflimore, St. Columbus or I-collum kyle, Tyre-ty or Tyrrec. Near thefe are the two little iflands of Kernibcrg, Coll, South-uift and North-uift, &c. All which iflands, it is to be obferved, make part .of the weflern iflands of Scot- land, which are called Hebrides. To this fhire, ac- cording to Collier, belong patt of Lochaber, Morvcn, Suynart, and Ardcmurchen. It has the lrifh fea and firth of Clyde on the fouth, Monteith, Lenox, and part of Perthfhire, on the eaft:, Lochabar on the north eaft, and part of Perthfhire on, the north, with feveral of the weftern iflands to the vvt ft, and north weft. The continuator of Cambden makes Argylefhire one hundred and twenty miles in length, and forty in breadth: that properly fo called, is abouc forty miles long, and four where narroweft. It had fjc rmeriy two fhenffdoms, nameiy, Argyle, and Tarbar orTarbet, now united into one, and comprehending the feveral diftricts and ifles above-mentioned. According to Templeman, the area of Argyle, Cowal, and Knap- dale, is eight hundred and forty-eight fquare miles ; Lorn, three hundred and eighty-four ; Mull, four hun- dred and twenty; ]la, two hundred and ten; Arran, one hundred and ninety-eight; Bute, twenty-feven ; and Cantyre, two hundred and forty-five ; in all two thoufand four hundred and ninety-two. The General Atlas makes this country ninety miles from the Mull of Cantyre on the fouth, to Lochaber on the north, and feventy where broadeft, including the ifles. The fea in this country runs up in feveral places a pretty way in- lr.ii J, S C O T A fJ D. land, forming long bays called loughs ; at the head of ^ which our maps mark no fipfii rivers running into them, only the appearance of two or three ac the end of Lough Fynn. Argylefhire in general is mountainous, and the bulk of the middling fort of the inhabitants (all of them ipeaking Irifh, or rather Erie, in fome degree of its purity), live by feeding of cattle, fiihing, and formerly by hunting. The coaft, efpecially as far as Loch- fynn, is full of high rocks and black mountains, covered with heath or heather, which feed great numbers of black cattle, moftly running wild, together with deer and other game in abundance. The flefh of their cattle, though fmall, is excellent meat : and the fat, when melted, does not harden, (they fay) contrary to what Other tallow after running ufually does, but continues fome days like an oil. But why it fl.ould become hard then, and not as foon as it has cooled, the account? do not fay. The inhabitants fell vaft numbers of their black cattle into the Low-countries in Scotland, and doubtlefs vaft droves of them come from thence into England alfo. The number of lougrn, or rather bays and creeks imade by the fea, are reckoned to be feven. Thefe may be the principal ; but, by looking into the map, there appear to be many more, particularly on the coaft of Lorn, Krupdale, Cantyre, and Co^'al : the molt con- siderable of thefe are Lough Fynn and Lough Long. Argyle, Cantyre, and Lorn, are part of the ancient Caledonia, or country pofleffed by Fergus's colony of Scots, in contradiction to that of the Pids. Argyle (fometimes called Lifmore, from an ifland of that name where its bifhop refided, in the times of epifcopacy, was a diocefe under the archbifhop of Glaf- gow, and comprehended Argyle properly fo called, Lorn, Cantvre, and Lcchaber, with fome of the weftern ifles ; the remainder of the Hebrides having been, under the bifhop of the ifles, who is prelate of Sodor and Man. The presbyteries were Denune (fometimes alfo the bi- fhop's refidence), Innerara, Cambelton, Kilmore, and Lorn. Now under presbyterianifm, inftead of the bi- ihop, is the provincial fynod of Argyle, ( containing five presbyteries, and under thefe forty-nine parifhes. The principal place of Argylefhire is the royal bu^gh of Innerara. .. .>..,. Argyle for a long time gave title of earl, at prefent of duke, and in queen Anne's reign was added that of Greenwich in England, to the honourable family of Campbell, who are chiefs of the clan of, 'that name, and defcended (we are told) from the. ancient and heroic kings of U liter in Ireland. The following account of the noble family of Argyle is very remarkable. <* The cc.untry of Argyle hath for a long time be- longed to the chief of the Campbells, to whom it gives the title of duke, a family whofe name denotes their valour, as Signifying the field of war, Campus belli ; nsr has their behaviour been at any time unanfwerablc to it. He is the firft earl in Scotland; and, befides the title of Argyle, is Lord Cantyre, Campbell, and Lorn; the jaft of which gives always title to the eldeft fon 0$ the family, which makes a great figure in Scotland, be- caufe of the greatnefs of their clan, number of their vaffals, honourable allies, and hereditary offices, fuch as Juftice General of the fhire of Argyle and the ifles, lord lieutenant and Iheriff of Argyle, heritable matter of the houfhold (i. e. hereditary lord fteward of the houfe) to the king, and feveral other offices within his own bounds. They were juftice-generals of all Scot- land, till by contract betwixt Charles I. , and the mar- quis of Argyle, then lord Lorn, in the year 1628, he refined that office into the king's hands, and got fe- cured to himfelf and his pofterity to be juftice-general of Argyle and the ifles, and wherever he had lands in Scotland. Hut it is here to be obferved, that thefe here- ditary jurifdictions, at leaft in civil and criminal affairs, have all in Scotland been veiled in the crown by a late act of the Britifh parliament, and that for valuable con- siderations in lieu of them). ( Our account goes en :) The chief of the Campbell?, one of the faid earl's prcdecef- fors, in September 1300, made that famous indenture, yet extant, with Sir Alexander Seaton, and Sir Gilbert Hay,' whereby they bind themfelves to {land to their ut- moft to the defence of their fovereign lord king Robert Bruce, as well againft French and Enjjliih, as Scots, fubferibed with all their hands, and feaicd at Cambuf- kenneth. He honourably entertained and affifted their faid king Robert, againlt Baliol ; and, for his. good Cervices, the king gave him Marjorey Bruce his owl! filter in marriage. His fon afiifted king David Bruce in his minority, joined with the lord Robert Srew.irr, one of the kind's royal predccefl'or.s, defeated the Engl. fh at Denune, and took that caftte from thorn ; ioi which the king made him hereditary- governor of the faid cattle, allowing hnn a yearly paiion ; and created his coufm John Campbel, earl of Atijol, who died without fuc- ceflion. King James It (of Scotland) being detained eighteen yeais a prifoner in England, one of the (aid earl's predeceffors, whole eldeft fon was married^ to the daughter of Robert Duke of Albany, and filter to duke Murdoch the .govern; r of Scotland, improved that opportunity fo effectually for ihe advantage of the faid king James I. that he prevailed with tne governor to raniom and reftnre him to his father's throne. Colin, earl of Argyle did conftantly adhere to king James 11. who in his younger years was reduced to great itraiis by thole who confpired againft his authority ; but was fettled on the throne by this earl's alhftance : for which good fervice he made hrm lord high chancellor of Scot- land, and gave him feveral lands. Gilefpicus (Gi efpic) or Archibald, earl of Argyle, was killed at Flodden-held, as fighting valiantly for king James IV. Colin, earl of Argyle, was one of the three that governed Scotland in king James V.'s minority ; and the only man able ta make head againft the Douglaffes, being commiflioned for that effect, Archibald, earl of Argyle, was lord high chancellor in queen Mary's reign, a great pro- moter of the Reformation, and oppofer of the French tyranny, and then current perfecution. Colin, earl of Argyle, his fon and fucceffor, was alfo lord chancellor of Scotland in king James Vl's reign. Archibald, earl of Argyle, was in 1641 created marquis, joined with the parliament of Scotland, was a zealous afterter of the Prefbyterian government, looked upon as one of the greateft ftatefmen of his time, contributed much to the reception and coronation of Charles II. in Scotland, and put the crown upon his head : yet after the reftoration, anno i66t, he was condemned and beheaded, ^pon an indi&ment. for alledged ^compliance with Oliver 6e/ng the epidemical fault of that time. He declared fl/^felf innocent on the fcaffold. ; Archibald, his fom when lord Lorn, commanded king Charles II. 's rbof-£u a rds, fignalized himfelf againft Oliver, and never capitulated till he was ordered to do fo by the king: yet w a s for- feited alfo, but foon after reffored to the title of ear/ - and condemned again in. the latter end of Charles II-.'l reign for explaining the teft in thefe words, ie J have <' conlidered the teft ; and am defirous to give o6 e diencc " as far as I can. I am confident the parltame n t never intended to impofe contradictory oaths : and there- " fore I think no man can explain it, but for himfelf - " and reconcile it, as it is genuine, and agrees in it! " own fenfe. And I take it in fo far as it is confident " with.itfelf and the Proteftant religion. And I do de- " cla/e, I mean not to bind up myfdf -in -my Station • '* and in a lawful way to endeavour any thina; I think «« to; .the advantage of church or ftate, not repiignant to f* the Proteftant religion and my loyalty. And this I " underftand as part of my oath'." But efcapmg cfrom thecaftle of Edinburgh, (his eftate being difpofed of to others) he got over into Ho! hnd 4 whence with a few men he landed in Scotland, in the beginning of the late king James (Vil. of Scotland, II. of England] his reign, a little before the duke of Monmouth landed in England. But having never got above two thoufand men together, was defeated, taken, and beheaded at Edinburgh, June the thirtieth, ^85, upon the Sen- tence of explaining the teft, His zeal for the Proteftant religion. SCOTLAND. religion, and againft introducing of Popery, was faiJ to be the.cau(e of his fall. He was reckoned an accom- plifhcd ftatefman, and a great loldier. His ion Archi- baM came over with the prince of Orange, and was very inftrumental in the Revolution in Scotland, and owned as the earl of Argyle by the pur'iamcnt, before they took oft" the attainder againlt his father; which, by the'claim of right, was declared to be a reproach to the nation. His lordfhip was fent from the nobility, wi.h other two commiffioners, from the barons and boroughs, to offer the crown of Scotland, in the name of the con- vention of the ftates of that kingdom, to their majefties king William and queen Mary; for whofe fervice he carried over a regiment to Flanders, confifting moftly, both officers and foldiers, of his own name and family. His eldeft fon, (afterwards John duke of Argyle) was a youth of great expectation : concerning whom it is re- markable, that, when he was but five years old, he jumped out of a window three ftories high (fome fay he fell that height out of his nurfe's arms), without re- ceiving any hurt; and, as near as can be calculated, it happened in the very minute that his grandfather fuf- fered. — This account was given by the late lord's di- rection. Befides this note in Jer. Collier, which is an- nexed to the account above recited, towards the end of the preface to the fecond edition, corrected and enlarged to the year 1688, this author adds : " I have, gone no further in time than the year 1688; fo that whatever the reader meets with of a frefher date, is either the remainder of the old Englifh edition, or elfe continued by fome other hand, at the inftance of the undertakers. The article Argyle is an exception of what I have faid ; and therefore, with all due regard to a noble family, 1 am obliged to declare, that, had that article been printed as I left it, it would have appeared with fome alteration." To enter into a difcuffion of that matter feems quite foreign to a work of this kind ; and therefore we (hall proceed. This family has had the honour to match with the royal family, as has been (hewn in fome meafure above, and others of the greateft note in Scotland ; are poffefled cf feveral royalties (but thefe have been lately ceded to the crown, as has been already mentioned), and have abundance of vaflals ; each of whom is obliged, by vir- tue of an old tenure and ancient right, that whenever a daughter of this family is married, to pay her portion ; for which purpofe a tax is laid on them, according to the number of cattle they poiTefs. The late John duke of Argyle was a nobleman of a very popular character, and celebrated both in his mili- tary and political capacity : but his brother, the late duke, before well known, under the name of Archibald, earl of Ila, was as diftinguiflied for his own great know- ledge in literature of all kinds, and in politics, as he was remarkable for his liberal encouragement of the arts and fciences, and the profeflbrs of them in every de- nomination. This fhire has many ancient caftles and gentlemen's feats in it, mod of which are poffefled by branches of the Argyle family; and fome of this name are faid at leaft to be of equal, if not greater antiquity, than that which, as has been partly fhewn before, is noted for having fuffered much on account of its fteady ad- herence to the Proteftant religion, and the liberties of their country, efpecially from the Reformation to the Revolution. This is that particular country in the Weftern iflands of Scotland, which a certain perfon, in king James II 's time, called the kingdom of Argyle, complimenting that prince, in a high ftrain of court-flattery, upon his having conquered two kings, when he fupprefll-d the duke of Monmouth, whom, in derifion, they called the little king of Lyme in Dorfetfhire, and the earl of Argyle, to whom they gave, with much more pro- priety, the title of the Great King of the Highlands. To this account of the noble family of Argyle we .may add, that when earl Archibald was reft.jred by the convention who prefented the claim of rights, the re- vcriion of title was granted to the heirs male of his Z brother, John Campbel, of Manmore : and when irl 1701, he was advanced to the title of duke, the fame reverlion was continued, as a reward for their many great Cervices done in defence of the liberties of their country: Accordingly the two late dukes, fons of the above, both dying without male iflue, the title defcendcH to John Campbel, of Manmore, lately dead, ami is nov