Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2014 https://archive.org/details/historicaltourinOOcoxe iVix D« A« M* B« Ax A N HISTORICAL TOUR I M MONMOUTHSHIRE &C. PART THE FIRS T. A K HISTORICAL TOUR 1 M MONMOUTHSHIRE; ILL US TR ATE D WITH VIEWS BY SIR R. C. HOARE, BART. A NEW MAP OF THECO U N T Y, AND OTHER ENGRAVINGS: BY WILLIAM COXE, A.M. RR.S. F. A. S. R ECTOR OF BEMERTON AND STOURTON. PART THE FIRST. LONDON: PRINTED FOR T. CADELL, JUN. AND AV. DAVIES, IN THE STRAND. 1801. Luke Hanfard, Printer, Great Turnftile, Lincoln's Inn Fields. SIR RICHARD COLT IIOARE, Bart. My dear Sir, An Historical tour in Monmouthshire, commenced in Your Company, written at Your Suggeftion, and embellifhed by Your Pencil, is infcribed to You with peculiar propriety ; and I am happy in this public opportunity of exprefling thofe fentiments of efteem and regard, with which I am Your lincere and much obliged Friend, WILLIAM COXE. Bemerton, Oftober i, iSoo. This Work was intended, to be comprifed in one Volume, and is paged accord- ingly; but the extend of the Narrative, and the number of Plates, which amount to no lefs than Ninety, having fwclled it beyond the limits originally propofed, it was deemed too bulky for a fingle Volume* and is therefore divided into Two Parts. C O N T E N T S. P A R T THE FIRST Preface — — page 1 to vui INTRODUCTION, page *i to ;l 32, viz. Section i. Monmouthfhire. — Situation and Bounda i ies. — Rivers. — Hundreds. — Po- pulation. — Languages. — Situation in the Roman, Britifh, Saxon, and Norman Periods. — Reduced to an Englifh County — — — — — page *i Seel. 2. Roman Stations and Roads in Monmouthihire. — Courfe of the Julia Strata from Bath to the Confines of Glamorganlhire — — — — * ll Sect. 3. Ancient Encampments. — Caftles. — Churches — • — — *22 TOUR. Chapter i. PafTage of the Severn. — Chariton Rock. — Black Rock and Houfe. — St. Pierre. — Ancient Tomb.— Pedigree of the Lewis Family — — — T Chap. 2. Mathern. — Ancient Refidence of the Biihops of LandafF. — Church. — Infcription on King Theodorick. — Moinfcourt. — Runfton — — — — '7 Chap 3. Sudbrook Encampment. — Chapel. — Portfcwit. — Caldecot Caftle — 1^ Chap. 4. Crick. — Caerwent. — Roman Antiquities. — Prefent State. — Dinham — 24 Chap. 5. Caftles of Penhow, Pencoed, Lanvair, and Striguil. — Bertholly Houfe. — Views from the Pencamawr, and Kemeys Folly — — — — 30 Chap. 6. Road to Newport. — Chriftchurch. — Excurfion to Lanwern and GoldclirF. — Re- mains of the Priory. — Sea Walls — — — — — 39 Chap. 7. Newport. — Bridge. — Situation. — Population. — Commerce. — Canal.— Caftle. — Hiftory and Proprietors. — Church of St. Woolos. — Anecdote on the conftrudion of the Tower. — Account of St. Woolos Caerau, — Ancient Religious Eftablilhments - 45 Chap. 8. CONTENTS. Chap. 8. Excurfions from Newport to the South-wcftem Boundaries of Monmouthfhire — Upper Road to Caerdiff. — Encampment of the Gaer. — Baffalcg." — Cracg y Saeft'on. — New Park Encampment. — Lanvihangel Vedw. — Kevenmably. — St. Melons. — Rumney. — Lower Road from Caerdiff to Newport. — CafUcton. — Tredegar. — Morgan Family. — Machen Place and Church. — Bed was — — — — — — page 58 Chap. 9. Level of Wentloog— Sea Walls.— Greenfield Caftle.— Churches of St. Bride's, Peterfton, and Marfhfield, — Excutfion to TwynBarhvm — — — 7 1 Chap. 10. Road from Newport to Caerleon. — Malpas Church.— Caerleon. — Etymology.— Roman Antiquities. — Walls. — Circumference. — Amphitheatre. — Suburbs, or Ultra Pontem. — Caftle. — Ancient Encampments in the Vicinity — — — 7^ Chap. 1 1. Hiflory of Caerleon after the Departure of the Romans. — King Arthur. — Knights of the Round Table.— Church of St. Cadoc— Ancient Abbey.— Caftle.— Modern Hif- tory, and prefent State of Caerleon. — Bridge. — Singular Lfcape of Mrs. Williams - 92 Chap. 12. St. Julian's. — Memoirs of Lord Herbert of Chcrbury — — 103 Chap. 13. Lantarnam Houfe. — Branch of the Morgan Family.— Upper Road to Ufk — Langibby Houfe and Caftlc. — Family of V. iilinms. — Lower Road to Ufk. — Kcmcys Houfe. — Infcription in Tredonnoc Church. — Lantrifaint. — Lanllowcl. — Vale of Ufk 1 15 Chap. 14. Town of Ufk. — Ancient Burrium. — Caftle. — Hiftory and Proprietors. — Church. — [nfcription. — Priory. — Encampments of Craeg v Gaercvd, Campwood, and Coed v Bunedd — — — — — — — — 124. Chap. 15. Raglan Caftle and Iliftory. — Proprietors. — Anecdotes of William Herbert Earl of Pembroke, of Sir Charles Someriet firft Earl,, and of Henry firfl: Ma rem is of Worcefter. —Siege, Surrender, and Demolition of the Caftle. — Church. — Cemetery. — Character of Edward Earl of Glamorgan and fecond Marquis of Worcefter — — 136. Chap. 16. Lanfanfracd Houfe and Church. — Pant y Goytie. — Clytlia Houfe and Caftle — Lanarth Court. — Troftrcy Forge. — Kemeys Commander. — Troll re y Houfe and Church. — Bcttus Newydd — — — — — — — 15^ Chap. 17. Abergavenny. — Circumjacent Mountains — The Blorenge. — Sugar Loaf. — Skyrrid. — Eftablifhment of the Free School — — — — 164 Chap. 18. Tudor's Gate.— Ruins of Abergavennny Caftlc. — Hiftory and different Pro- Chap. 19. Ancient Paiifh Church. — Priory. — St. Mary's Church. — Herbert Chapel.— Monuments. — Sir William ap Thomas.- — Sir Richard Herbert of Coldbrook. — Sir Richard Herbert of Ewias. — Other Sepulchral Memorials. — Epitaph on the Roberts Family — — — — — — — — 1 82 Chap. 20. Excurfions to the Summits of the Sugar Loaf and Great Skyrrid — 195 Chap. 21. Twy Dec. — Werndec. — Ancient Seat of ihc Herbert Family. — Landcilo Ber- tholly, — Ancient Grant. — Excurfion to the Dcrry, Rolbcn, and Lanwcnarth Hills. — View from the Summit of the Little Skyrrid — — — — 202 DIRECTIONS DIRECTIONS for the PLATES. As fome of the Plates contain two or more Subjects, defcribed in different Parts of the Work, the Chapters in which each of thofe Subjects are refpe&ively mentioned, are fpecified in this Lift. A few Miftakes made by the Engraver, in fome of the Names, are alfo here corrected. PART THE FIRST, I. MAPS. i- X h E Map of Monmouthmire to face the Introduftion, page *i. 2. Containing Plan of the Via Julia from Bath to the Severn - - - - General Sketch of the Roman Roads and Stations in Mon- ( mouthihire and Wales, and the adjacent counties - - ii, II. VIE W S. 1. St. Pierre, chap. i. ----------- \ ' ^ Moinscourt Gateway, chap. 2. y 0 J ace P a & 3° 2. Epifcopal Palace at Mathem (Mathern) ---------- 7. 3. Sudbrook Chapel - - - - - - - - - - - - 7 ^ ^ Keep of Caldecot Caftle J 4. South-eaft View of Caldecot Caftle 19. 5. Part of the Eaftern Entrance of Caerwent - - - - 7 0 c A Baftion of the South Wall J " ' " " 6. Penhow Caftle and Church, chap. ij. ----- 1 Manfion of Pencoed, chap. 5. - - - y ~ ^ ' 7. Caftle DIRECTIONS for the PLATES.— Part I. 7. Caftle of Pencoed - -- -- -- -- - - - to face page 34 8. Ruins of Lanvair Caftle ~ " 36 9. Ruins of Striguil Caftle - - - - 38 10. Chriftchurch, chap. 6. 7 Malpas Church, chap. 10. - -- -- -- - ~ 4 1 1 . Bridge and Caftle at Newport - -- -- -- -- -- -45 12. Infide View of the Church of St. Woolos at Newport 53 13. Baffaleg, chap. 8. ------------7 Machen Place - -- -- -- - -59 14. Front and Back View of the Round Tower, near the Han- bury Arms - -- -- - - -- -- - Ruins near the Bridge --------- Remains of the Caftle Works near the Ufk - - - - South Angle of the Roman Walls at Caerleon - - - < 89. 15. Town and Bridge of Caerleon - -- -- -- -- -- - 100. 16. Front View of St. Julian's --------7 Back View of St. Julian's ------- - j " J* 17. Bridge and Caftle of Ulk - -- -- -- -- -- -- - 126. 18. Ufk Church - - 7 Porch of Ufk Priory . _ . J ' " " " *3 2 - 19. Raglan Caftle - -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 138. 20. Infide View of Raglan Caftle - -- -- -- -- -- - 140. 21. Clytha Gateway ---------- - 1 22. Clytha Caftle - - - 158. 23. Abergavenny, with a diftant View of the Skyrrid ------ 164. 24. Werndee, chap. 21.-----------" Perthir, chap. 33. - -- -- -- -- -- Treowen, chap. 33, and - -- -- ' ~ 20 3' Caeluch, Appendix, No. 11. - - - - - - - - III. PORTRAITS, DIRECTIONS for the PLATE S. — Part I. III. PORTRAITS, &c. 1. Lord Herbert of Cherbury --------- to face page 105. 2. Sir Charles Somerfet, firft Earl of Worcefter -- - 142. 3. Henry Somerfet, firft Marquis of Worcefter - -- -- -- - 144. 4. Edward, fecond Marquis of Worcefter and Earl of Glamorgan - -151. 5. Monumental Effigies of Sir William ap Thomas ------- 186. 6. Monumental Effigies of Sir Richard Herbert --------188. 7. Major Hanbury ------------- - 236. 8. Sir Charles Hanbury Williams *-----_----- 271. IV. PLANS OF TOWNS. 1. Plan of Caerwent, or Venta Silurum - -- -- -- -- 25. 2. Town and Liberties of Newport - -- -- -- -- ---46. 3. Plan of Caerleon, or Isca SiiuRUM - -- -- -- -- - 81. 4. Plan of Ufk ---- ------------ 125. 5. Plan of Abergavenny - -- -- -- -- -- - - - 167. V. GROUND PLANS OF ANCIENT CASTLES AND ENCAMPMENTS. j. Encampments in the Vicinity of Oldcaftle : Pwl y Bala, near Campfton ------- Gwen Caftle ----------- Coed y Crafel - -- -- -- -- -- - Walterfton - -- -- -- -- -- -- I - On the Summit of the Gaer - -- -- -- -[ Above Trewyn Houfe - -- -- -- -- - Thefe Encampments are alluded to in the Introduction, Section 2, and in chapter 23. ------ 2. Portfcwit * The Reader is defired to correct the Infcription at the bottom of this Plate, which fhould be Duncombe not Duncan Davies. DIRECTIONS for the PLATES. — Part I. 2. Portscwit Encampment ■ Ground Plan of Caldecot 3. Ground Plans of Penhow Pencoed - - - - - Lanvair and - - - - Striguil Caftles, chap. 5. - Caftle' - - - - - - } to face page 15. Ground Plans of Newport Caftle, chap. 7. Langibby Caftle, chap. 1 Ulk Caftle, chap. 14. --------- f " " _ " " 49- Abergavenny Caftle, chap. 18. 5. Encampment of the Gaer in Tredegar Park - - - "1 Craeg y Saefon, and 60. Pen y Pare Nevvydd, chap. 8. - - - -- -- J 6. Tumulus andEntrenchment of Twyn Barlwm, chap. 9, 7 Encampments of Pen y Pill and liumney, chap. 8.-) " " " " 7. Encampments of the Lodge ------ Penros - -- -- -- -- -- -- Mayndee, and- - - __---f~~""9° St. Julian's ------------ 8. Encampments of Coed y Bunedd ------ "1 Campwood, and -------____L_ ___ l Craeg y Gaercydd J q. Ground Plan of Raglan Caftle ------------ PREFACE. PREFACE. r | ^HE prefent work owes its origin to an accidental excurfion into Mon- mouthfhire, in company with my friend fir Richard Hoare, during the autumn of 1798. I was delighted with the beauties of the fcenery ; I was ftruck with the picturefque ruins of ancient caftles memorable in the annals of hiftory, and I was animated with the view of manlions diftinguifhed by the refi- dence of illuftrious perfons; objects which the fketches of my friend's pencil rendered more impreffive. On my return I examined my notes, perufed the principal books relating to Monmouthfhire, and convinced that fo interefling a county deferved particular notice, formed the plan of a tour, which mould combine hiftory and defcription, and illuflrate both with the efforts of the pencil. Sir Richard Hoare flrongly en- couraged me in my undertaking, offered to accompany me again into Mon- mouthfliire, and to fupply me with additional views. Accordingly, in the fpring of 1 799, 1 explored the county in various directions, and received affiflance from many gentlemen and men of letters ; but as the materials were flill defective, and as want of time and unfavourable weather pre- vented me from vifiting the fequeftered and mountainous diftri&s, I made a third excurfion in the autumn of the fame year. In the courfe of thefe three journies I employed five months, and traverfed 1500 miles, and now prefent to the public the refult of my obfervations and relearches. In it PREFACE. In this work the reader mud not expect to find a regular hiftory of Mon- mouthlhirc, but a defcription of the principal places, intermixed with hiftorical relations and biographical anecdotes, and embellifhed with the moft ftriking views, for which I am principally indebted to my friend fir Richard Iloare, whofe perfevering zeal and activity claim my warmeft gratitude. To his grace the duke of Beaufort, I beg leave to exprefs my grateful ac- knowledgments for empowering his agents in Monmouthfhire to fupply me with information, and for permitting me to have drawings taken from the por- traits of his illuftrious anceftors at Badminton and Troy houfe, from which I have given engravings of fir Charles Somerfet, firft earl of Worcefber, of the gallant defender of Raglan caftie, and of Edward, fecond marquis of Worcefter. To the following gentlemen of the county, who favoured me with a kind and hofpitable reception, and promoted my refearches, I am proud to acknowledge my obligations and gratitude : William Dinwoodie, efq. of Twydee. James Green, efq. of Lanfanfraed, M. P. for Arundel. John Jones, efq. of Lanarth Court. William Jones, efq. of Clytha Houfe. William Kemeys, efq. of Mayndee. Canel Haabury Leigh, efq. of Pont y Pool Park. Charles Lewis, efq. of St. Pierre. Richard Lewis, efq. of Landeilo. Sir Charles Morgan, of Tredegar, bart. member for the county. William Nicholl, efq. of Caerleon. Benjamin Waddington, efq. of Lanover, now high (heriff for the county. Mark Wood, efq. of Piercefield, M. P. for Newark, formerly chief engineer at Bengal. Alio to George Kemeys, efq. of Malpas. John Rickards, efq. proprietor of Lanfanfraed. Sir Robert Salufbury, of Lanwern, Bart. M. P. for Brecknock, and Thomas Swinncrton, efq. of Butterton hall in Staffordshire, and of Wonaftow houfe in the county of Monmouth. PREFACE. iii In regard to literary affiftance and local information, my firft acknowledg- ments are due to the Rev. Mr. Evans, vicar of St. Woolos, for his active co- operation, and indefatigable exertions, as well during my continuance in the county, as by a conftant correfpondence lince my return. To Thomas Jennings, efq. collector of the Cuftoms of Chepftow, lam con- fiderably indebted for various communications, and numerous iketches, which have greatly affifted in elucidating the work. My thanks are likewife particularly due to The Rev. Duncombe Davies, vicar of St. Mary's Monmouth. The Rev. William Jones, of the Piftill. The Rev. John Mulfo, of Abergavenny. The Rev. William Powell, of White houfe, near Abergavenny, now feated at Leidet, near Monmouth. ^ The Rev. Thomas Proffer, lecturer of the Free School at? Monmouth. The Rev. William Roberts, of Perthir. And to the Rev. John Williams, vicar of Pont y pool. Nor can I withhold a tribute of gratitude for the valuable affiftance which I derived from Mr. Owen Tudor, bookfeller at Monmouth, and his two fons, Meffrs. John and Thomas Tudor, who vied with each other in rendering mc fervice, and from whom I received numerous Plans and Sketches. Mr. William Owen, the learned author of the Welfli and Englifh Dictionary, kindly obliged me with various interefting communications relating to the hiftory and language of Wales, and the dialect of Gwent, moft of which are inferted in the Appendix. The earl of Liverpool, chancellor of the duchy of Lancafter, having granted permiffion to confult the archives, R. J. Harper, efq. deferves my belt thanks for his readinefs and zeal in facilitating my enquiries. I mult alfo exprefs my acknowledgments to Francis Townfliend, efq. Windfor Herald, for liberally opening the records of the Heralds' Office, and elucidating the pedigrees of feveral illuftrious families. Without the kind affiftance of my friend the Rev. Thomas Leman, whofe a 2 knowledge iv PREFACE. knowledge of Roman annuities is unquestionable, I mould have not have pre- fumed to give the Introductory chapter, and maps relating to the Roman flat ions and roads. But notwithstanding his valuable communications, which afcertain the direction of the Julia Strata from Bath to the banks of the Severn, and the pofition of the ftations in Monmouthfhire and the adjacent counties, I am too confcious of my fcanty acquaintance with this branch of antiquities, and the difficulty of the fubject, not to be apprehenfive, that the antiquary will find great deficiency in this part of the work. To my friend Henry Penruddocke Wyndham, efq. M. P. for the county of Wilts, and author of the firfl interesting Tour in Monmouthfhire and Wales, my thanks are due for communicating Grimm's drawing of the infide view of Tintern abbey, and for the ufe of his valuable library. I cannot clofe the lift of benefactors to this work, without expreffing my grati- tude for the valuable afliftance I derived from my friend Francis Freeling, efq. fecretary to the poft-mafters general ; he favoured me with letters to the principal poft-mafters of the county ; he procured me accefs to the plans of the poft roads preferved in the office, which greatly contributed to the improvement of the map, and obtained the tables of exports and imports, from the late much lamented Thomas Irving, efq. infpector general of the exports and imports. To Mifs Edith Palmer, of Bath, I owe the elegant views of Clytha caftle and gateway, with the chain of mountains and hills in the neighbourhood of Aber- gavenny, of Lanover church, and of the ruins of Abergavenny caftle. The antiquities of the county are illuftrated with plans of the Roman ftations, and ground plots of the principal caftles and encampments, taken from actual furveys by Mr. Thomas Morrice, land furveyor, of CaerdifFj the biogra- phical anecdotes are accompanied with the portraits of memorable perfons, moft of which have never been engraved ; and Mr. Byrne, of whofe talents as an artift any eulogium is unneceflary, muft not be omitted in my acknowledgments, for the mafterly execution of the plates which he engraved. I am PREFACE. v I am happy to be able to add a plan of the celebrated grounds of Piercefield, kindly communicated by colonel Wood. In the courfe of the work I have cited my authorities, and have given, at the end of the Appendix, a lift of the books principally confulted on this oc- cafion. The names of the places- are chiefly written according to the Welfh ortho- graphy, a few inftances excepted, which are authorized by long cullom. I have likevvife, with the affiftance of Mr. Owen, fubjoined an explanation of the com- mon names employed in the courfe of this work, and the mode of their pro- nunciation. The map which accompanies this work, was- compiled by Mr. Nathaniel Coltman, from the beft authorities which could be procured. The boundaries of the county on the fides of Glocefterfhire, Herefordfhire, and Glamorganfhire, were delineated from Taylor's furveys of Glocefterfhire and Herefordfhire,. and from Yates's furvey of Glamorganfhire ; the boundaries on the fide of Brecknockfhire are taken from the maps of South Wales, the plan of the Monmouthfhire and Rrecknockfhire canal, and corrected by my own obfervations. The latitude and longitude of Monmouth, which differ materially from thofe of former delineations, were corrected by Mr. Arrowfmith, from whofe kind communications the map received confiderable improvement. The principal high roads are laid down from the furveys of the pofl roads, made by order of the poft-mafters general. The canals, rail-roads, and the adjacent country, are given from the plan of th? Monmouthfhire and Brecknockfhire canals, by Mr. T. Dadford, jun. engineer. The reft of the interior of the county is filled up from the beft authorities extant, and the whole has been augmented and corrected, from my own journals and obfervations, Directions for pronouncing particular letters in Welsh Orthography. (Communicated by Mr. Owen.) WELSH LETTERS. THEIR POWER'S. WELSH LETTERS. THEIR POWERS. C---K F ----- v, where ff is ufed C//, or c - - with a ftrong gut- for the f. tural pronunciation, / - - - - EE. as the Greek or Ll - - - - hl, or l afpi rated. as ch, in the German. U - - - - i, in Mi/s., this, &c Dd, or z - th, in them. W - - - - oo. th, in thought. T - - - - u, in iwv/. C - g, in good. Vowels circumflexed are long, as in Englifh monofyllables with an e finals as Ban, hone ; Man, mane, * 16 4,409 Total 1 1,835 SECTION r. 3* dlftridbare rich in mineral productions, particularly iron and coal, which have given rife to numerous iron manufactories *, and confiderably increafed the population and riches of the county. At the time of the Roman invafion Monmouthfhire was part of the territory inhabited by the Silures, which, befides this diftridt, comprehended the counties of Glamorgan, Brecknock, liadnor, Hereford, and fuch parts of GJocefterfhire, Worcefterfhire, and Caermarthenfhire as lay between the Severn, the Teme, and the Towy. Caerwent, which afterwards became a Roman ftation under the name of Venta Silurum, was their capital ; and their other principal towns were Magna (Kenchefter) Gobannium (Abergavenny) Ariconium (Rofe or Berry hill nearRofs) and Ifca (Caerleon.) This warlike people had conquered, or were in alliance with two other tribes, the Ordovices and the Dimetse. The Ordovices pofleffed all North Wales, except a fmall diftrict of Flintfhire, which belonged to the Carnabii, and fome parts of Shropfhire. The Dimeta? dwelt in the counties of South Wales, which were not poffefled by the Silures, as Cardiganshire, Pembrokefhire, and Caermarthenfhire ; their boundaries were on the fide of the land, the Towy which feparated them from the Silures, and the Dovy from the Ordovices, The * A lift of the principal manufactories in Monmouthfliire : Sorwy - - - - Pitcoal— furnace ----- MelTrs. Monkhoufe and Co. Ebwy - - - - Pitcoal — furnace - Harford, Partridge, and Co, Nant y glo - - Pitcoal— two furnaces - - Hill, Harford, and Co. Biaenavon - - - Pitcoal.— three furnaces - -- -- -- -- -- J. Hill and Co. Abercarn - - -^^^^SST^^T^ ' ll^l' " - S. Glover, efq. Machen - Charcoal forge ----------- \ Gelliwaltad - - Charcoal forge >Meflrs. Harford, Partridge, and Co. Baifaleg - - - Charcoal forge in Tredegar Park ---.-) Caerleon - - - Charcoal forge ; formerly belonging to ----- - J. Blanning, efq. Pont y Pool - - Charcoal furnace and forges - -- -- -- -- - C. Leigh, efq. ■ Two pitcoal furnaces Lanfilio on the [• formerly belongingto - - - D. Tanner, efq. Monnow - - Charcoal forge - - J Troftrey - - - Charcoal forges Harvey, Wafon, and Co. Monmouth , - Charcoal forges Meflrs. Harford, Partridge, and Co. Tintern Abbey - Charcoal furnace, forges, and wire-works ----- Mr. Thompfon. Belides thefe Ironworks, there are alfo at Rogefton - - - Tin mills L i , „ i r Caerleon - - - Large tin work \~ " " J- Butler > b z v 4 INTRODUCTION. The whole region inhabited by thefe three tribes, including Mona, or the Ille of Anglefey, was denominated by the Romans Britannia Secunda, todiftinguifh.it from the foutherft parts of England,, which were called Britannia Prima. Having brought the natives of Britannia Prima under fubjection, the Romans turned their arms againfl the Silures; but. experienced great difficulties in the conqueft of a country interfered by numerous and rapid rivers, broken by moun- tains, covered with forefts,. and defended by a warlike people, who made an unparalleled refiftanee to the Roman arms,, and were not brought into fubjection until the reign of Vefpafian, when they were conquered by Julius Frontmus. Agricola fuceeeded Frontinus in the government of Britain. On his arrival in the country of the Silures he found the people entirely fubdued, and, though t lie fummer was pa ft, inftantly collected the troops, and marched againfl; the. Ordovices, who had recently cut off a fquadron of Roman horfe ftationed on their frontiers. Having finally fubdued, or in the language of Tacitus, extermi- nated almoft the whole nation, he advanced to the conquefl of Anglefey, where the Britons had retired as to a place of fecurity. The Romans occupied the country of the Silures as a conquered province from the time of their fir ft eftabliftiment in the reign of Vefpafian, to their final evacuation of Britain, in the year of Chrift 408, a period of 330 years. From their departure the hiftory of Britain is uncertain, obfeure, and fabu- lous. The country was divided into petty foverergnties, occafionaily at variance with each other, or over-run by the northern tribes. Many of the natives, par- ticularly of the fouthern and weftern parts, frequently repaired to Armorica ©r Britanny, the inhabitants of which fpoke a fimilar language^ and were fup- pofed to be defcended from the fame anceftors.. The Britons being attacked by numerous hordes of Pidts and Scots, and long accuftomed to rely on external aid, a&ed at firft with weaknefs and tre- pidation, and were difcomfited on all fides. Defpair at length called forth their native energy ; they rallied, and collecting a formidable body, drove the enemy beyond the frontiers. In this ftruggle they feem to have received troops and a ibv.ereign from Armorica*. Oldrearii SECTION i. 5* Oldrean duke of Armorica, the fourth in defcent from Conan, who received that kingdom from the emperor Maximus, (A. D. 385,) being applied to for aftftance, fent his brother Conflantine with a confiderable force. Having de- feated the invaders, Conflantine was railed to the crown by the gratitude of the natives, (A. D. 433) and from him defcended a- race of Arrnorican kings highly renowned in Britifh ft'ory. It is afierted that Conflans, the fon and fucceffor of Conflantine, after a fliprt reign, either died or was murdered by Vortigern *, a powerful prince in Britain,, who feil'ed the crown, and that Aurelius Ambrofius and Uther Pendragon, the infant fon s of Conflantine, were conveyed to Armorica. Others fuppofe, that on the retreat of the Romans the Arrnorican princes v/ere fovereigns of the Damnonii, or Cornwall and Devonshire, and fubordinate to Vortigern, here- ditary king of the Dimetae, who either by election, intrigue, or force, became head or fovereign of all the Britifli tribes, from the channel to the Roman wall. With a view to protect his dominions from the Picts and Scots, Vortigern, by the advice of the Britifli chiefs, invited a corps of Anglo-Saxon merce- naries, under the celebrated Hengifl ; and having, with their afliflance, driven back the northern invaders, gave a fettlement in. the Ifle of Thanet to his new allies. But the Saxons, joined by numerous bodies from the northern fliores of Germany and Jutland, and forming an alliance with the Scots and Picls, foon turned their arms againfl the Britons, and fuddenly invaded their country in different quarters. The Britons, though, at firfl; confounded,, recovered from their dcfpondency they defended themfelves with great bravery ; the Saxons met with- alternate defeats and fucceffes,.and did not finally eflablifh themfelves in the center of the kingdom without extreme difficulty -f . As Vortigern was the unfortunate caufe of this Saxon invafion, his character has been branded by the Britifli writers, and all the miferies of his unhappy country * The real fituation of Vortigern is not afcer- to the aflertions of Gildas, which are adopted by tained ; fome call him fovereign of the Silures, or Hume and others, that the Britons did not aft with Gvvent; fome king of the Dimetae;fome the king pusillanimity, but defended themfelves with great of the Damnonii, or Cornwall ; and others confu], or fpirit and vigour. Hiftory of Manchefter, b. ii', «arl of the GewiiTes. chap. i. To which account I am indebted for t Mr. Whitaker has plainly proved, in oppofition many judicious obfervations. *6 INTRODUCTION. country imputed to him alone ; while his fon Vortimer, and Aurelius Ambrofius, who combated the Saxons with equal fpirit and intrepidity, are extolledjn the rhapfodies of the bards, which feem to form the principal foundation of the hiftory of thefe times. On the death or abdication* of Vortigern, Aurelius Ambrofius is faid to have become king of the Britifh tribes, and to have refilled or attacked the Saxons in every quarter of the kingdom. All that is known of this great fore- runner of Arthur is, that he was of Roman extraction ; that his parents, who had affumed the purple, were killed at the commencement of the Saxon inva- fion -f- ; but whether he came from Armorica, was hereditary king of the Dam- nonii, or received that kingdom as the gift of Vortigern, is as uncertain as his lineage or the time of his birth. The extent and events of his reign have been differently reprefented : numerous victories over the Saxons have been by fome attributed to his prowefs and judgment, while by others eleven battles, of which the names are mentioned by Nennius, have been afcribed to Arthur, whofe con- troverted hiftory it is equally difficult to elucidate or explain. In the legends of this uncertain period, Gwent or Monmouthfhire is often a confpicuous fcene; its fovereigns, Uther Pendragon and the renowned Arthur, are reprefented as equal in fame and exploits to the greateft heroes of Greece and Italy ; and Caerleon is fuppofed to rival the fplendor of ancient Rome j To repeat the fabulous ftories of Geoffrey of Monmouth would be to infult the reader's understanding; and the traditional fongs of the bards are too un- certain and unconnected to form the bafis of genuine hiftory. Should, however, the aftonifhing exploits and unparalleled victories of Arthur be admitted as facts, they only contributed to retard, not to fupprefs the growing power of the Saxons, who rapidly extended their conquefts over that part of Britain now called England, and formed feven kingdoms, which were finally confolidated by Egbert into one great monarchy, (827.) In * According tolbme, Vortigern was befieged by where he became a hermit. See Nennius, and Pen- Aurelius and the Britons, and burnt with the tower nant's interelting account of the place of his fup- which he was defending againft them ; according to pofed retreat} Tour in Wales, vol. 2. p. 21 3. others, he refigned the crown of Britain in favour f Gildas. of Aurelius, and retired to the mountains of Wales", J See p. 295. 6 SECTION i, *7 In thefe conflicts, Tome of the Britons fled into Cornwall and Armorica; but greater numbers, who efcaped from the fword of the enemy, retired indignantly to the mountains of Wales, and joined the natives in their ftruggle for liberty. During the gradual cftablifhment of . the heptarchy, the Saxons and Welfh princes were in a flate of almofl uninterrupted warfare : the Saxons confined them within narrower limits, and after reducing them to the prefent boundaries of Wales and Monmouthfhire, compelled them to become tributary. It is difficult to afcertain the exact limits of the principalities into which Wales was divided during this period, as their number and names were con- tinually changing by the fortune of war, and the prejudicial cuflom of parti- tioning the dominions among all the fons of the deceafed prince. But the mod certain and permanent divifion was, i. Gwynedd, or the greater part of North Wales ; 2. Deheubarth, or the greater part of South Wales ; 3. Powisland. * Thefe three principalities were united in the perfon of Roderic the Great, and on his death (876) divided between his three fons: Anarawd poffefTed Gwynedd ; Cadelh, Deheubarth ; and Merfyn, Powisland; Roderic alfo ordained by his will, " that his eldeft fon Anarawd and his fuccefTors, JJiouid continue the payment of the ancient tribute to the crown of England; and that the other two, their heirs and fuccefTors, mould acknowledge his fovereignty -f It is flill more difficult to trace in thofe obfeure times the hiflory of Mon- mouthfhire, which was included in Deheubarth, fome times forming a feparate diftrid under the name of Gwent, and at others comprehended in Morganoc, or the kingdom of Glamorgan, and divided into the hundreds of Gwentloog, and Edlogan, Gwent-under-wood, and Gwent-over-wood f'. The fucceffion of its petty princes forms in the Welih chronicles a mere catalogue of names, fup- pofed to be a lift of kings from Morgan the fon of Arthur, to the final ex- tinction of the line in the days of Henry the fecond §, At • For an accurate account of the boundaries of which gives the divifions of Morganoc, and proves Powisland, fee Pennant's Wales, vol. i.p.m. the influence of the Saxon kings in this part of f Caradoc's Hiftory of Wales, tranflated by Powell, Wales. P'35- § Meirich thefon of Ithcl, kingorpnnce of Gwent, I See a curious paper in the Appendix, No. 2, died without illue male, leaving one daughter Mor- vyth, INTRODUCTION. At an early period Monmouth Hi ire was divided among feveral petty princes, ufually tributary to the kings of Glamorgan, or to the princes of South Wales, in whofe territories Glamorgan was comprifed. But they withheld their tribute whenever thofe princes were not in a fituation to enforce obedience. Sometimes they aimed at ■ independence, and one favage inftance of their at- tempts is recorded in the hiftory of Wales : in 983, an infurection took place among the natives of Gwent.; and Einion, deputed by his father Owen, prince of South Wales, to perfuade . them to obedience, was maffacred by the enraged multitude *. It appears, however, that the warlike inhabitants of Gwent not only withdrew their allegiance from the princes of South Wales, but even occafionally ventured to refift the fovereigns of England. Alfred made preparations to fubdue Caer- leon -f ; and Canute in 1034, entered + the land of Gwent with a powerful army, and defeated Rytherch ap Jeflin, prince of South Wales. Some authors of credit are of opinion that Monmouthfhire, though late, was wholly conquered by the Saxons. The Saxon Chronicle in feveral inftances leems to confirm this notion, by afferting that the kings of England fub- dued all Wales, took hoftages, and compelled the natives to pay tribute. But thefe conquefts were only temporary inroads, until the reign of Edward the Confeflbr, when Harold penetrated into the country at the head of a nu- merous army, defeated Griffith fovereign of North Wales, gave a prince to South Wales, forced the natives to fwear fealty, give hoftages, and pay the cuf- tomary ■vyth, who efpoufed Grono, great grandfon to Rees mould he reftored again to the kingdom of Britain, ap Theodore, prince of South Wales, and lineal an- which was partly accomplifhed in king Henry vii. cellor of fir Owen Tudor, grandfather of Henry the and more by the accemoa of James i. to the Britifh feventh. " So that it appears, that the kings of throne, but wholly fulfilled in the happy Union of Scotland and England are originally defcended from all Britain, by the glorious queen Anne ; whom Morvyth, this Gwentonian prince's daughter, and God long preferve of his great goodnefs, and the heir to Meyrick lait king of Gwent, who, according fucceflion in the proteftant line." Secret Memoirs to feveral authentic Britiih pedigrees, was lineally of Monmouthihire, p. 57. deicended from Cadwalladar, the lalt king of Britain, * Powell, p. 6 j. and as our hiftorians do tettifie, did prognofticate f Ibid. p. 57. Seep. 97. of this Work. 1 jso years pail, that the heirs deicended of his bias, \ Ibid. p. 83. SECTION i. * and one on King's Wefton Hill correfponding not only with that on Lanfdown, but with one near the Crofs Hands, eafily maintained the communication with the great ftation of Caerwent. The diftance of vim miles in the Itinerary of Antonine, between Abone and Trajeclus, exactly agrees with the diftance from Bitton to Sea Mills; and as it was the great ftation on the Avon, it probably derived the name of Abone, from its pofition on that river." " From this ftation Venta Silurum is placed by Antonine at the diftance of nine miles; whereas the direct diftance from Sea Mills to Caerwent is not lefs than twelve : but as the fum total prefixed to this Iter does not correfpond with the amount of the respective numbers, by a deficiency of five miles, it may be concluded either that fome of the numerals were corrupted, or apoft omitted by the inattention of tranfcribers ; accordingly, in referring to Richard, we find -j~ the ftation of ad Sabrinam 1 1 1 , not mentioned by Antonine, a diftance which exactly accords with that from Sea Mills to the Severn, and along the line of which traces of a Roman caufeway are ftill manifeft. By adding thefe three miles, the diftance from Sea Mills to Caerwent will be twelve, and from ad Sa- brinam (or the place of embarkation on the Severn) nine, which, allowing about fix and a half for the paflage, is the diftance from Caerwent." " I prefume * See the (ketch. « Town, as mentioned in the rental of Sir Ralph f In confirmation of their having fome pell or " Sadlier, 36 Hen. 8 ; where many Roman coins .Jtatifn on the holders of the Severn, Mr. Barret, « have been differed. 1 '' This was probably a ham- in his Hiftory of Briftel, p. 12. mentions, " that let belonging to the great ftation at Sea Mills, and " under Kinl'wefton Hill, in Lawrence Wefton, near attached to the poft of Ad Sabrinam. *« the river, was a cimmon field, called Abone SECTION 2. XXXVI. XXXV. The point of embarkation being thus fettled, the next object is to trace the Julia Strata, from the place of difembarkation on the oppofite coaft of Mon- mouthfhire, to Caerwent. From local obfervations, it appears, that in the whole tract between the mouth of the Wy and Caldecot Level, there could have been no fecure landing place, excepting at the New Paffage and at Caldecot Pill, or perhaps at Portfcwit, if we admit the conjecture, that it was once a port*. I am inclined therefore to adopt the opinion of my friend Mr. Leman in favour of Caldecot Pill. Notwithftanding, however, all my refearches and enquiries, I could not difcover any veftiges of a caufeway between Caldecot Pill and Caer- went, till I pafTed the brook Nedern, in the vicinity of Caerwent -j- . Between the brook and the eaftern gate, I perceived veftiges of an ancient paved caufeway, which within the memory of fome of the inhabitants was more perfect. I was likewife informed by the man employed in making the prefent road, that this caufeway was the common way for horfe and foot paflengers, and notwithftanding the boggy nature of the adjacent foil, was remarkable for its firmnefs and drynefs. I have * Portfcwit is called In the Triades, one of the three pafiages or ferries in the Ifle of Britain. From Mr. Owen. f If I might venture to hazard an opinion on fo difficult a fubjefl, I mould conjecture that, from Caldecot Pill, the Julia Strata took the direction of what is now a broad way to a place called the Tump, a natural elevation of rock, which may have ferved as a tumulus. Its courfe is loft in the village of Cal- decotj but re-appears a little beyond the church, op- pofite to the ruins of the caitle, which might have been the fite of a Roman poft, and is the bye road leading to Caerwent ; it runs over the natural rock, ■in a ftruight line for above a mile, when it is inter- rupted by feveral lime kilns ; from which place to the brook Nedern no farther traces of it could be dis- covered. On the other fide of that brook is the caufeway mentioned in the text. My friend Mr. Evans, at my requeft, explored the country between Caerwent and the Severn, corroborated Mr. Leman's opinion, that Caldecot Pill was the landing place of the Romans, and confirmed my conjecture that the Julia Strata ran from thence through the prefent village of Caldecot to the weft of the caftle, in the direction of the bye road which I have delcribed j he particularly noticed that the track was worn by conftant ufe feverai feet below the furtuce. • X 8 INTRODUCTION, I have obferved *, that the only part of the Julia Strata vifible in Monmouth- (hire, which I>as been diftindtly afcertained, runs through Caerwent, and from thence over the brook Nedern, by Penhow, towards Cacrleon. Several anti- quaries, and particularly Horiley, who travelled over it towards the beginning of this century, defcribe it as large and remarkable. Since the formation of the turnpike, its appearance is considerably changed ; but the veftiges are ftill occa- fionally manifeft, as far as Cat's am, a public houfe on the left of the high road, two miles from Caerleon. Near this place the turnpike quits it at the bottom of a fteep afcent, and in a mile again joins it ; but the Roman way foon branches off" in a ftraight direction acrofs the fields, and in the line of the old Chepftow Hill road, to the village of Caerleon, or Ultra Pontem, from whence a branch led towards Ufk. The courfe of the Julia Strata, weft from Caerleon, through the counties of Monmouth and Glamorgan, is contained in the twelfth Iter of Antonine, and the two next ftations beyond Caerleon are Bovium -f xxvn, and Nidus xv |. Richard places Bovium at the diftance of xxvin. m. p. ; but mentions an in- termediate poft, Tibia Amnis vm.j which is omitted by Antonine. Should this numeral vni not be corrupted, the fite of Tibia Amnis mull be found in Monmouthihire. The name implies that it was feated on a river ; but I could not jh Neath. Horiley erroneoufly places Nidus and Bo- the weft of England, and the other through the mium, which he tranfpofes, near Portbury and near fouthern part of Wales. Horfley's Commentary, Axb'-idge in Somerfetfhire, which is contrary to the p. 457. Reynolds's Iter Britanniarum, p. 338. election of the Iter. As he had never feen the Iters % See Sureta's Itinerarium Antonini, p. 1 10. Ir» of Richard (which pofitively fix the fituation of the Horfley's copy, Nidus is putfirftand Bovium fecond, ftations mentioned in the latter part of the twelfth and the diftances are XV. and xv. But the coinci- Iter of Antonine) he had not the leaft fufpicion that dence of the diftance from Ifca to Bovium xxvu. the twelfth Iter of Antonine, through the blunders with xxvm. in Richard, and the order oi the ftations, of trani'cnbers, was compofed of two leparate Iters prove Sureta's reading to be gight, joined together. SECTION z. *i$ Newport ; forAlexander Necham, who died in 12 17, abbot of Cirencefter, fpeuk- ing of Newport, obferved, that it paffed not far from the mouth of the Ufk : " Intrat et auget aquas Sabrins fluminis Ofca " Prasceps ; teftis erit Julia Strata mihi." No veftiges, however, of a Roman caufeway are vifible between Caerleon and Newport ; but, according to the opinion of Mr. Evans, whofe local knowledge of the country is extremely exact, the Roman road ran on the right bank of the Ulk ; and I traced its courfe mOre than once in his company. From the well gate of Caerleon, it went parallel to the walls ; then turned at right angles to the weft, and in a few hundred yards turning again at right angles, continued fouthward for a fhort diftance, in which line two fepulchral ftones bearing Roman infcriptions have been found. It then refumed a wefterly direction, proceeded under the encampment of the Lodge, crofted a brook near fome old walls, fuppofed to have been part of the walls belonging to the ancient fuburbs of Caerleon, but which are probably the remains of the gate leading into Lantarnani Park; it here fuddenly took a foutherly courfe, continued in a ftraight line for about a mile, paffing near two fpots where fepulchral infcriptions * were dif- covered, and then bent round the Pill. Here the prefent road follows unneceftarily a circuitous courfe, firft north and then fouth, over a fteep ridge of hills ; but the Roman way took a nearer di- rection fouth-wefterly by Tamplin's houfe, leaving Malpas church on the right, and Crynda Houfe on the left, crofted the prefent high road, pafled the Scelti near the ftone bridge, and continued along the fields, where the track is loft among the works of the canal ; its direction, however, was evident from an urn and a free ftone farcophagus difcovered in digging the canal. It pafled a little to the weft of Newport, and led up the hill to the fite of St. "Woolos church, near the remains of feveral encampments, and a tumulus now deftroyed, which Harris confiders as an arx fpeculatoria -f . The courfe from hence towards the Taaf is doubtful, as the prefent road divides * One of thefe fepulchral ftones, which is now in legible except the words CHOR VI x HAST 7. Mr. Butler's cellar at Caerleon, is infcribed D. M. PRI°. Communicated by Mr. Evans. VIBIO PROCVLO. the other D C ATE A7 I. f Archseologia, vol. z. p. 7. AMABILZ; the infcription on the third is fcarcely d 2 *20 INTRODUCTION. divides into two branches, which unite at St Melon's ; the upper leads by Baf- faleg, the lower by Tredegar and Caftleton, and the chain of encampments which I have defcribed in the eighth chapter, are equally calculated to defend both. From the union of the two roads, near the church of St. Melon's, and about a quarter of a mile from the encampment of Peny Pil, the Roman way probably followed the courfe of the pfefent turnpike, and after croffing the Rumney, con- tinued towards the Taaf. There are evident traces of a Roman caufeway eaft from Caerwent to the village of Crick, difcerned by Horfley and other antiquaries *, and which has been ufually fuppofed to form part of the Julia Strata leading from the Severn to Caerwent. Mr. Leman, however, is of opinion that this caufeway was a continuation of the Akeman ftreet, between Corinium or Cirencefter and Caer- leon -f-. I fhall now return to thofe branches of the Julia Strata which paHTed through the other parts of Monmouthfhire, and are fpecified in the twelfth and four- teenth Iters of Antonine, and the eleventh and thirteenth of Richard. Aiitoniue Iter. xii. Richard Iter. xm. Engliili Names* Ab Ifca. Ab Ifca Uriconium ufque fic. M. P. M. P. VIII. Ufk. Gobarmio - - - - - XII. Gobannio - XII. Abergavenny. - XXII. Magna ------ xxiii. Kenchefter. Bravinio - - - - • xxim. Branogenio - - - - XX-IU. Lentwardine, or BrandsA Camp. Urioconio - - - - XXVI I. Urioconio - - - • XXVII. Wroxeter. XCIIII. XCIII. Iter xiii. Iter xiv. Ab Ifca. Ab Ifca, per Glebon, Lindum ufque fic. VIII. Ufk. XII. Monmouth. XI. Rofe or Berry Hill near Rofs. Clevo - - - - - - - xv. Glebon Colonia, &c - - XV. Glocefter. XLVI. XLVI. A branch led from Caerleon to Burrium or Ufk, from which place it divided into * Horfley, p. +69. Severn, Mr. Leman traced by Trewfbury, Hocbui-yj- t This road, in its way from Cirencefter to the and Cherington, In Glocefterfliire, to the end of the Wolds. SECTION 2. *zv into two way?, one proceeding to Gobannium or Abergavenny, and another to Bleftium or Monmouth. The distance from Ifca to Burrium is vim in An- tonine, and vm in Richard. There are two ways from Caerleon to Ufk; the upper, which is the turnpike, pafles a fteep hill, and crofles the river over a ftone bridge to Ufk ; it is not more than feven miles and a quarter. The lower, which is little ufed for carriages, proceeds along the left bank of the Ufk, in a more circuitous track, but almoft perfectly level, at the foot of Kemeys and Bertholly hills and the Pencamawr,- under a chain of encampments *, and above the marfhy plain, which is fubject to perpetual inundations ; the diftance is about eight miles,, and the road bends to accommodate itlelf to the numerous finuofities of the river, as far as the lane leading to Tredonnoc bridge. From thence it con- tinues as ftraight as an arrow to Lantrifaint ; where the prefent road makes a circuit over the hill into the highway from Ufk to the New Paflage, and defcends to Lanllowel, leaving the church on the left. But the old road, which I con- ceive to be the fite of the Roman way, continued ftraight on the right fide of the church to Lanllowell, where it formed an obtufe angle, and proceeded with the line of the prefent road to Ufk. The length being greater than that of the upper road, accords better with the diftances in the Itineraries. The courfe of the Roman road from Ufk to Bleftium, comes next under con- fideration. The diftance is xi miles according to Antonine, and xn according to Richard. Two roads lead from Ufk to Monmouth ; one by Raglan, which is twelve miles and a half, and the other by Pen y Clawdd is not more than eleven. The laft I confider to have been the direction of the Roman road, at Wolds. It traverfesthe turnpike from Tetbury to lord Berkeley, on the edge of the Wolds. The Sill Hampton, partes a houfe called the Star and Garter, to object on reaching this tumulus is Lydney, which Chevenage Green, from whence it is an obfcure horfe- was evidently a Roman ftation, on the oppofite firie way through the inclofures to the Bath turnpike, of the Severn in the foreft of Dean. Here Mr. Leman (which it crofles about a quarter of a mile before the purfued it no farther, and could not decide whether feparation of the Frocefter and Rodborough roads) it proceeded to Oldbury or Auft ; but was of opinion then defcends into Lafborough Vale with a kind of that it communicated with the Via Julia at Caer- fweep, and winds np the oppofite hill to regain its went. See the (ketch of this road on the plate of the courfe, having as ufual tumuli for a direction on each Roman roads. Mr. Lyfons in his learned and elegmt fide. It partes the inclofures by the edge of the val- work on the antiquities of Woodchefter traces this ley in which Bagfpath village is placed, tending to- read, which he calls the Ikenild Strett, by Trewlbuiy, wards a vafb tumulus on the brow of the hill, clofe Ciierrington, Kingfcote, and Croomhall to' Auft. to the turnpike leading to Durfley and Rodborough, * Kemeys Folly, Coed y Caerau, and Cuerlicyn. and near Syrnond's hall, a farm houfe belonging to See Appendix, N J . 3. *zi INTRODUCTION. at leaft as far as Pen y Clawdd. It runs along the Vale of Uik, leaving Landenny church on the left, at the diftance of about half a mile, afcends Lanerth hill, and proceeds in a ftraight line to Pen y Clawdd, parting by the church, which is placed on a fummit ; the meaning of this name, which fignifics the head of the dike, implies that a great caufeway reached this point of the eminence. From this place, after descending a quarter of a mile, the prefent road lofes its ftraight direction, and purfuing a winding courfe, falls into the upper road from Ufk by Raglan to Monmouth. The fudden change from a ftraight to a waving line, in flantly convinced me that it had loft the track of the Roman caufeway, which probably ran by a fhorter and more level courfe to Mitchel Troy, and near the prefent ftte of Troy houfe to Monmouth. Both Antonine and Richard agree in placing Ariconium or Sariconium, the next ftation, at the diftance of xi miles from Bleftium. Ariconium is now fup- pofed, by the beft antiquaries, to be Rofe or Berry hill in the parifh of Bollitree, which is ten or eleven miles from Monmouth. The road probably ran along the fite of the prefent turnpike to the ford of the Wy near Goodrich, leaving an en- trenchment and tumulus at a little diftance to the left, oppofite Dixon church, and parting at the foot of the little Doward, on the fummit of which is an en- campment, fuppofed by fome antiquaries to be Roman. The name of Whit- church Street, by which it is diftinguiftied, feems to indicate the exiftence of a Roman way; yet in the whole courfe of the road to Goodrich, I could not dif- cover any veftiges of an ancient caufeway, either from my own obfervations, or from repeated enquiries among the natives. During various excurfions in the vicinity of Monmouth, the only road bearing pofitive marks of Roman origin, is that which leads from the left bank of the Wy up the Kymin, partes by Stanton in Glocefterlhire, and was part of the old way from Monmouth to Glocefter. At this place are many /indications of a Roman fettlement ; the name of Stanton* proves the exiftence of a Roman caufeway ; veftiges of confiderable entrenchments appear in the vi- cinity of the church, and quantities of Roman cinders -f are fcattered about the fields. * Stanton fignifies Stane town, or the Town on the Stone Street. t See p. $6, /'//V/ it JSii/ii /■'.intim/irnen/ jicri/- t'am/jstOTi Gu/em Caft/c neur Camp/fan SECTION a. '23 fields. The ihort time of my -continuance at Monmouth, and the numerous objects which attracted my attention within the count}'-, prevented me from tracing its courfe farther than Stanton, which is only three miles from Mon- mouth. It was perhaps part of the old Roman way which led from Bleftium to Glevum or Glocefter, by a nearer communication than through Ariconium $ or. to Lydney, on the banks of the Severn. The diftance of the other branch from Burrium or Ufk, to Gpbannium or Abergavenny, is marked by Antonine and Richard atxn m. p. fufficiently fuit- ing the diftance on both fides of the Ulk, which cannot be lefs than eleven miles. The courfe of this Iter however, has efcaped the refearches of all our antiquaries, and my utmoft efforts to difcover it were ineffectual. From Gobannium, according to the Itinerary, a way led to Magna, or Ken- chefter in Herefordfhire, diftant according to Antonine xxn, according to Richard xxi 1 1 miles, which agrees with the fituation of the two places. From the nature of the country it mull have paffed by or near Lanvihangel, but the exact line I could not difcover. A little beyond Lanvihangel, where a {tone bridge croffes the Honddy, its progrefs northward is apparent by its rectilinear courfe, and occasional fwell, in the direction of the road to Longtown by Trewyn ; above which place, on the fummit of the hill, is an ancient encamp- ment *. From hence I could no longer trace its direction, but it probably palTed, as Stukeley fuppofes, at the foot of the Black mountains, not far from Oldcaftle, which he erroneoufly imagines to be Bleftium -f. On both fides of this road are feveral encampments, all of which I had not time to vifit ; but of which engravings are annexed, from plans taken at my requeft by Mr. Morrice +. Such is the beft account which I was able to collect of the Roman roads in Monmouthfhire, mentioned in the Itineraries j but there were undoubtedly other * See p. 24*, and the ground plan of this camp Herefordfhire, but clofe to the frontiers of Mon- on the annexed plate. mouthfhire. It is nearly fquare, with the comers t See chapter 23. rounded, and fome confiderable veftiges of a Roman t Of thefe encampments Coed y Crafel deferves fceflelatcd pa\ement were found there. See the plate, particular notice; it is fituated near Walterftone in Strange, Archa;ologia, vol. 6, p. 13. * 24 INTRODUCTION. other ways, as well military as vicinal, which communicated directly with fome Of the greater ftations, or formed a regular connection with the diftricts occu- pied by the Romans in the mountains, for the purpofe of opening mines, of which traces are frequent in many parts of the county. In the courfe of my Tour I obferved veftigesof feveral, which appeared to be of Roman origin, particularly in the neighbourhood of Lanvihangel Crickornell, where the names of Upper and Lower Stanton feem to indicate the fite of a Roman road, and where the remains of numerous entrenchments, which might have ferved as exploratory camps, are ftill manifeft *. A road muft have led from Abergavenny through the Vale of the Ufk north-weft to the Gaer, fituated about two miles north- weft of Brecon, " on a gentle eminence, at the conflux of the rivers Efkir and Ulke." Mr. Wyndham-f- iraced part of the walls, which he defcribes as exactly fimilar to thofe of Caerleon, and Mr. Leman found feveral bricks bearing the infeription of LEG II AVG. There feems alfo to have been a Roman road from Abergavenny, com- municating with the ftations in Glamorganshire. Bad weather and want of time prevented me from exploring the whole of this track; but in an ex- cursion to the weftern boundaries of Monmouthfhire, I travelled over that part of it which ftretches from Penllwyn, north to Bydwellty, and the Sorwy furnace. It forms a ftraight line, from forty to fifty feet in breadth between the hedges, which is an uncommon circumftance in this county, where the roads are ufually extremely narrow; in many places I obferved veftiges of a caufeway, paved with large flag ftones ; in fome parts there was little more than a pathway in the midft of this broad road ; but in others, the whole caufe- way remained entire and fwelling, though furrowed with the tracks of horfes. Thefe appearances are peculiarly ftriking about half a mile beyond Bydwellty church, near which are remains of a ftrong entrenchment. I traced it only four miles ; but I am informed by gentlemen who have much frequented thefe mountains * See the Plate. to the Gaer, and from thence to Nidus or Neath, is + See Wyndham's Tour: Strange and Harris marked in the flcetches of the Roman roads annexed fuppofe the Gaer to be the Magna of Antoninus. to this chapter. The general line of this read from Gobannium SECTION 2. *2 5 mountains for growfe (hooting, that it continues north fome miles farther, and then turns to the eaft and north-eaft over the moors, in a direction to Aber- gavenny. This road is called by the natives farn Mr, or the long paved caufe- way, a name which fufficiently befpeaks it to be Roman, Sarn in Welfh having the fame fignifkation as Stane or Street in Englifh *. * See p. 2+. If [ *26 ] SECTION 3. Ancient Encampments. — Cajlles, — Churches.. REMAINS of numerous encampments are flill manifeft in various parts of Monmouthfhire, which have been called Britifli, Roman, Saxon or Danifh, according to the lyftems adopted by different authors. Harris,, who had the merit of difcovering feveral of thefe camps, afcribes to- them all a Roman origin, merely becaufe a few Roman coins or portable anti- quities have been found either in their fites or in their vicinities *.. But this circumftance cannot be confidered as pofitive evidence of a Roman camp ; for long after the departure of the Romans their money was current among the Britons, and the Saxons and Danes conveyed the plunder of the places they over-ran to their own towns and camps.. Perhaps a fquare or parallelogramical form, independent of Roman roads and antiquities, is the only indubitable mark of Roman origin. It does not how- ever appear, that the Romans, in all times, in all countries, and in all places, invariably formed their camps on the fame plan ; for there are feveral in England of circular, elliptical, and even irregular figures, which are unanimoufly allowed to be Roman; and we learn from Vegetius, that although a camp was mofb complete when its breadth was two thirds of its length, yet the form alone did not conftitute its goodnefs, but it might be fquare, triangular, or femicircular, according to the nature of the ground -jr. Should we confider the rectangular form alone, as indicative of a Roman camp, we • Ai clixo'ogia, vol. a< -f See Vegetius, lib. 1. cap. 13, SECTION 3. *2 7 we could not afcribe more than three or four of thofe of which I have given plans to the Romans ; whereas during a residence of three hundred years in this country they muft have occupied many fummer camps, as well as fmall pofts, for the protection of their convoys, and the fecurity of their cattle. We muft therefore either fuppofe, that many of thefe were Britifh, occupied by the Romans, or Roman, occupied and altered by the Britons, Saxons, and Danes. Several, how- ever, bear evident traces of a Saxon and Danifh origin, in the depth of the ditches and height of the Valiums, and were formed during their predatory incurfions into thefe parts- But as the Saxons and Danes never retained permanent pof- feflion of the country, we have reafon to conclude, that the greater part of the encampments were Britiflh. As I cannot prefume to difcriminate the fpecific characteriftics of each, I have given plans of the principal encampments from actual furveys, that thofe who are verfed in this fpeciesof knowledge, may judge of their origin. Among the principal objects of hiftorical importance, the caftles arreft the at- tention of the curious traveller. From the want of authentic documents, and the doubtful characters of our ancient architecture, it is not eafy to afcertain the precife a?ra of their conftruction, and to diftinguifh their different proprietors. Stone caftles were undoubtedly ufed by the Romans, and occupied on their de- parture by the Britons, who had been trained under their military difcipline. The Saxons, in their gradual conqueft of England, obtained pofleffion of thefe ftrong holds, and conftructed others in various parts of the country. The roundnefs of the arches, and other leading characters of Roman architecture, were ftill preferved; but the fimplicity and elegance were loft in a more pon- derous ftyle ; their buildings were loaded with rude and fantaftic ornaments, and as the arts of war changed, new modes of defence were introduced, particularly during the conteft between the Saxons and Danes. It is, however, acknowledged that thefe caftles were few in number, and much dilapidated at the time of the conqueft ; a circumftance which principally contributed to the fuccefs of the Norman invafion. from the neceflity of retaining the natives in fubjection, the conquerors re- e 2 paired * 2 8 INTRODUCTION. paired the old fortreffes, and conftructed new caftles in different parts of the kingdom. Thefe ftrong holds became fo numerous, that in little more than a century their number exceeded eleven hundred. On their firft arrival the Normans employed the lame mode of architecture as the Saxons, but with larger dimenfions, and perhaps with a greater number of capricious ornaments ; and hence arifes the great difficulty of diftinguiihing a Saxon from a Norman building erected at this period. Towards the commencement of the twelfth century, a criterion of diftinction was derived from the introduction of the pointed, or as it is ufually called, the gothic arch, which probably owed its origin to the interfection of the femicir- cular arches in the ornamental parts of the Saxon or Norman buildings. It was at firft fparingly employed ; but was gradually intermixed with the Saxon or Norman ftyle, until it came into general ufe, before the latter end of the fame century. At its firft appearance, which feems to be earlier than is generally fuppofed, the gothic architecture was plain and unadorned, but was gradually diftinguifhed by flender and cluftered columns, lightnefs of the walls, numerous buttrefTes, and by a profufion of ornaments. In the age of Henry the fixth it reached its higheft perfection, as may be feen in the beautiful fpecimen of King's College in the univerfity of Cambridge. Soon after that period, the arch became wider and lefs pointed, and gradually tended to a circular form. Towards the middle of the fixteenth century, a whimfical intermixture of Roman, Saxon, Norman, and gothic architecture was introduced, and retained until the adoption of the Palladian ftyle. Molt of thefe ftyles are obfervable in the caftles, churches, and other an- cient buildings of Monmouthfhire. Few Roman remains exift, and the Saxons being never pofltffors of the whole county, could leave but few fpecimens of their architecture, and thofe of a period when it is difficult to diftinguifh it from that of the early Normans ; but the gothic is moft prevalent. From thefe circumftances, as well as from hiftorical evidence, it is probable that the greater part of the caftles in this county owed their origin to the Normans, and 5 were SECTION 3. *29 were built or repaired after the introduction of gothic architecture : none, per- haps, except Scenfreth, are wholly Saxon or early Norman ; a few exhibit an intermixture of the Norman and gothic ; and the reft are entirely gothic. The churches are Angularly picturefque, from their fituation, form and ap- pearance ; they ftand in the mid ft of the fields, and on the banks of the rivers; re often embowered in trees, and generally at a confiderable diftance from any habitation. A whimfical and not unpleafing effect is fometimes produced by the coat of plaifter or lime with which they are covered. The body of the church is ufually whitened, occasionally alfo the tower ; in fome inftances the tower is uncoloured, and in others the battlements only are white-warned. This intermixture of colours is ingenioufly accounted for by Eflex in his remarks on ancient brick and ftone buildings in England : " The Normans frequently raifed large buildings with pebbles only, and fometimes with pebbles intermixt with rag-ftones. As this rough manner of building with rag-ftones and other irregular materials, required a coat of plaiftering to make them fair without and neat within, we find that thofe fmall churches and other buildings which were built in this manner, were always plaiftered in the infide» and frequently on the outfide, with a composition of lime and fand, the remains of which may be traced in many of the Saxon and Norman churches, and in fome more modern *" Thefe churches exhibit different ftyles of architecture ; many of them, par- ticularly in the mountainous diftricts, are very ancient, and it is probable that a few were constructed by the Britons, fome by the Saxons, and feveral at an early period of the Norman monarchy, as is evident from the rounded arches and mouldings peculiar to thofe ftyles ; but the far greater part were built fince the introduction of gothic architecture. The nrft are generally of a fimple form, of fmall dimensions, fhaped like a barn, without any distinction in the breadth or height between the nave and the chancel, and without a belfry. The * Effex's remarks on the antiquity and different model of brick and ftone buildings in England. Ar- ehseologia, vol. 4. p. 101. * qo INTRODUCTION. The fecond fpecies is of fomewhat later date : the chancel is narrower and lefs lofty than the church ; a fmall belfry is alfo placed over the roof at the weftern extremity, with one or two apertures * for bells, the ropes of which de- fcend into the church. The third fpecies confifts of a nave, a chancel, and a tower or belfry, which is fometimes placed at the weftern extremity, fometimes in the middle, and fometimes at the fide. The tower was at firft rude and mafiive, afterwards increafed in height and lightnefs, was ornamented with battlements, and in later times with pinnacles. A few, particularly thofe in the eaftern parts of the county, are provided with fteeples, and are fcarcely earlier than the 13th century. Many of the churches have undergone little change fince the sera of the Reformation, and exhibit traces of the Roman Catholic worfhip, particularly in the niches for faints, the receptacles for holy water, and fometimes in the vef- tiges of the confeflional chair. Many alfo contain remains of the rood loft -j~ ; almoft all of ,the doorway and fide ftaircafe, which led to it. In feveral churches I obferved the tranfverie beams from which the crofs was fufpended, and in that of Bettws Newydd almoft the whole loft remains^. In many parts of this county, the poor of every perfuafion ftill retain the cuftom of begging bread for the fouls of the de- farted on all Souls' day; the bread then given, is called Bara ran, or Dole bread. The fonts are in general remarkable for fize and rudenefs of workmanfhip ; circumftances which befpeak antiquity, and prove that they were formed when baptifm was performed by immerfion§, and not by fprinkling. A remarkable cuftom of high antiquity, which greatly disfigures the churches, is * See the views of Mai pas and Lanfanfraed chancel. The nave without reprtfented the church churches. In the courfe of this work, engravings militant, and the chancel the church triumphant, and are given of the different churches from the Saxon or thofe who pafled from the one to the other, mult go early Norman to the later gothic. under the crofs and differ affliction." Hiftory of f " The holy rood, or rood loft, derives its name Churches in England, p. 199. from the Saxon word rode, or rood, which fignifies a J Page 163. crcfs. It was an image of Chrift upon the crofs, § Irr.mcdion was the common form of adminiftcr- mude generally of wood, and placed in a loft or gal- ing baptifm in the thirteenth century . lery, over the paifage leading from the nave into the SECTION 3. is prevalent in thefe parts. The infide of the church is often the common place of fepulture. When a corpfe is buried, the pavement is taken up, a grave raifed, in the fame manner as in common church yards, and this heap of earth ftrewed with flowers and ever-greens *. As this cuftom is annually repeated, and confidered as a teftimony of remembrance, the (tones are feldom replaced, the faded plants rot on the furface of the grave, the floor is damp and dirty, and thefe tributes of affection, though pleafing objects in the church yards, become offenfive and difgufting. * To the cuf'com of (battering flowers over the graves of deceafed friends, David ap Gwillym beauti- fully alludes in one of his odes: " O whilft thy feafon of flowers, and thy tender fprays thick of leaves remain ; I will pluck the rofes from the brakes ; the flowerets of the meads, and gems of the woods; the vivid trefoils, beauties of the ground, and the gaily finiling bloom of the verdant herbs, to be offered to the memory of a chief of fairerc fame : Humbly will I lay them on the grave of Ivor!" Appendix, p. 410. See alfo an interefting tale, on the graves of Gla- morganfhire, which relates to this cuftom, in the EfTay on Funeral Rites ; in the Female Mentor, Con- veriktion 41, A TOUR IN MONMOUTHSHIRE. CHAPTER I. Paflage of the Severn. — Charjlon Rock. — Black Rock and Houfe. — St. Pierre. — Ancient I'omb. — Pedigree of the Lewis Family. T CROSSED into Monmouthfhire by the new paflage. The breadth of the Severn from fhore to fliore, at high water, is three miles and a quarter, from the inn on one fide to that on the other three and a half. The fhores of Glocefterfhire are quite flat at the place of embarkation ; higher up, near the old paflage, the cliffs are rocky and deep. The lliore of Monmouth (hire rifes gradually from the edge of the water into gentle acclivities, richly wooded, and interfperfed with fields of corn and pafture ; above thofe acclivities extend ridges of hills, which commence with Wind Cliff and the wooded eminences of Piercefteld, and join the two grey hills above Lanvair. Beyond them to the wefl, towers the Pencamawr, and the eye catches a diftant view of Twyn Barlwm, and the Machen Hill, terminating in the eminences beyond Newport, in the County of Glamorgan. We palled near a rocky iflet, fcarcely half a mile from the fliore of Monmouth- fliire, which is well known by the appellation of Charlton Rock ; at low water it is almofl half a mile in circumference, and at high tide is fometimes wholly covered, except a pyramid, which has been recently erected. The ftone is highly efteemed for its durability, and was lately employed by the architect of Newport bridge for the lower part of the piers. This iflet is often miflaken by authors for the Black Rock, which is the landing place of the new paflage. B The 1 CHAPTER i. The difcovery of Roman coins on this infulated rock, which, if we may judge from its prcfent fize and fituation, could never have been inhabited, has puzzled the beft informed antiquaries, and has led fome to conjecture, that it was once joined to the continent, or is the remains of a larger ifland. I difenibarked at the Black Rock, under a low but precipitous cliff of red (tone, which is ftriking to a traveller who has juft quitted the fandy level of the Glocefterfhire fhore, and afcended to the inn, which is built on the fummit of the cliff overhanging the Severn : from this place I made feveral excurfions in the vicinity. This ferry over the new paffage, which is certainly not lefs ancient than that over the old paffage, has from time immemorial belonged to the respectable family of Lewis of St. Pierre. An intcrefting incident in the life of Charles the fir ft, occafioned its fuppreffion by Oliver Cromwell. The king being purfued by a ftrong party of the enemy, rode through Shire Newton, and croffed the Severn to Chifell Pill, on the Glocefterfhire fide : the boat had fcarcely returned, before a corps of about fixty republicans followed him to the Black Rock, and inftantly compelled the boatmen, with drawn fvvords, to ferry them acrofs. The boat- men, who were royalifts, left them on a reef, called the Englifh Stones, which is feparated from the Glocefterfhire fhore by a lake fordable at low water; but as the tide, which had juft turned, flowed in with great rapidity, they were all drowned in attempting to crofs. Cromwell, informed of this event, abolifhed the ferry; and it was not renewed till 1718. The renewal occafioned a law fuit between the family of St. Pierre and the duke of Beaufort's guardians : in the courfe of the fuit, feveral witneffes were called, and depofitions taken, before a commiffion of the high court of Chancery, held at the Elephant coffee houfe, in Briftol, which ftated the undoubted right of Mr. Lewis, and incidentally men- tioned the interefting anecdote relating to the efcape of Charles the firft*. A pleafant * Charles Lewis, Efq. obligingly communicated to laid paffage, in order to crofs over the fame, and about me a copy of thefe depofitions, from which I mail one hour after his majefty paffed by, he was purfued infert that of Giles Gilbert, of Shire Newton, which by his enemies, or Oliver's foldiirs, whom this depo- is themoft circumftantial : "And this deponent par- nent faw going haftily near Portfcuct, who as this ticularly remembers, that in the reign of king Charles deponent heard, upon their coming up to the faid the firft, it was reported, that his Majefty croffed the Black Rock paffage, and there finding the king to have laid paffage from the faid Black Rock to Chifliull Pill ; juft paffed over, drew their fwords upon fome boat- and this deponent believes the fame, for that this de- men, belonging to the faid paffage, that were there, ponent faw him ride through Shire Newton, near the and forced them on board one of the paffage boats, 4 and ST. PIERRE. 3 A pleafant walk acrofs the fields, by the fide of the Severn, leads to St. Pierre, the refidence of the ancient family of Lewis. The houfe Hands at a fmall diftance from the Severn, near half a mile from the high road leading to Chepftow. It is an ancient ftru&ure, much altered, and modernifed with fafh windows ; one, how- ever, ftill remains, which proves it to have been conftructed as early as the four- teenth century. The gateway is ftill more ancient, and in feudal times was part of the old cancellated manfion ; it is a gothic portal, flanked by two pentagon embattled turrets, and has a very pifturefque appearance ; its form may be feen in the annexed engraving. The prefent proprietor, Mr. Lewis, was fo obliging as to accompany me through the apartments ; the frize of the dining-room is ornamented with coats of arms, carved and emblazoned, among which I noticed the lion argent on a fable field, the arms of the prefent family, which they bear from their anceftor Cadivor the Great, who died in 1084, and was buried in the priory of Caermarthen. I obferved likewife a griffin fegreant fable, the arms of the Morgan family, who are derived from the fame ftock. The leaden fpouts of the houfe are alfo marked with the lion, griffin, and three bulls heads j the three bearings of Cadivor the Great, and his immediate defcendants. Among a few pictures, one portrait attracted my attention : it reprefents a man habited in a coat of mail, without a helmet, his hair flowing, and hold- ing a piftol in his right hand ; a page is fattening on his fafh, as if he was preparing for combat : the pidure is well painted, and the countenance in particular is expreffive and animated. According to the tradition of the family, it is the portait of Thomas Lewis, of St. Pierre, who lived in the time of Charles the firft, and for his attachment to the royal caufe, was confined twenty years in the caflle of Chepftow ; but this tradition does not accord with hiftorical fact. It does not appear that Thomas Lewis was ever confined in the caflle and the faid boatmen carried them over, and landed ried them over; when this deponent, upon the report or put them on more on the rocks, called the Englifti of the accident, went down to the .'aid paftage to Stones, on the Gloucefterftnre fide of the faid palfage, enquire into the truth thereof; and this deponent near Cheihull Pill, and left them there, when the tide faith, that he hath heard, and been informed, and be- coming on them, they were all loft or drowned, as lieves, that the faid paffage was afterwards put down this deponent verily believes, and was credibly in- by Oliver Cromwell on that occalion." formed, the very next day, by die boatmen who car- B 2 4 CHAPTER i. caflle of Chepftow, or that he could have been imprilbned twenty years, as it was not fo long in the poflemon of Cromwell. I am inclined to believe, that it is the portrait of the celebrated regicide Marry Marten; he was confined exactly tzuenty years in the caflle of Chepftow, and, with the permiflion of his guard, was occafionally received at the hofpitable manfion of Mr. Thomas Lewis, who though a ftaunch loyalift, did not fuffer his political principles to weigh againft his benevolence. Marten, as a proof of gratitude, pre- fented his portrait to his protector ; it has fince remained in the pofTemon of the family, but being neglected and forgotten, was carnally found by one of the de- fcendants : unwilling to believe that his loyal predecefTbr had preferved the por- trait of a regicide, and mifunderftanding the tradition relating to the picture, he miftook Harry Marten for his anceftor. I am able to confirm this conjecture. An old butler, fince dead, and a houfekeeper, both of whom lived for a consider- able time in the family, agreed in averring, that it was the portrait of Harry Marten : Mrs. Williams, alfo, who died laft year, at a very advanced age, in Chepftow caftle, frequently mentioned that his portrait was at St. Pierre. As her mother refided in the caftle during the imprifonment of Harry Marten, and as Mrs. Williams had converfed with two of his fervants, her evidence, in addition to the afTertions of the butler and houfekeeper, muft be decifive ; I have, therefore, given an engraving of the head. The family derives its appellation from this place of their refidence, which is fo called from the church dedicated to St. Peter; in Latin it is denominated SanHi Petri Ecc/e/ia, and probably took its French appellation from the Norman family, who were feated here foon after the Conqueft, and built the church*. The church, which is contiguous to the houfe, is an ancient building of fmall dimenfions, barn-like fhape, and without any diftinction between the have and the chancel. Two curious fepulchral ftones, which were difcovered in 1764, in laying the foundation of a building adjoining to the houfe, are depofited in the church porch. Of • It is written differently in different ages; I tions of Sene Peare, San Pere, St. Peers, St. Peare; traced on the monumental jnfcriptions, the appella- but it is now denominated St, Pierre. \ ST. PIERRE. 5 Of thefe fepulchral ftones, which have attracted the attention of the antiquary, fac fimiles have been given by Mr. Strange, in the fifth volume of the Archse- ologia, and by Mr. Pegge, in the Gentleman's Magazine for 1765 *. On one of the ftones is carved a plain crofs and a fword, with an infeription round the verge in old French rhyme. Ici git le cors v. de fene pere, Preez pur li en bone manere ; Qe Jefu pur fa pafiun, De phecez li done pardun. Amen, R. P. Here lies the body of Urien St. Pierre ; pray devoutly for his foul ; that Jefus, for his paffion's fake, would give him pardon for his fins. The other ftone being exactly of the fame fize and fliape, is fuppofed to have been a partner to the former; but Mr. Pegge imagines that it was the ftone which covered the grave of his wife Margaret : it contains no infeription, but bears the figure of a hand holding a crofs ; the ft em of which is ornamented with rude figures, reprefenting three falcons, a dragon, and a lion. Above the crofs is a vacant fpace for a coat of arms, with ten pellets or bezants. Dr. Milles, late dean of Exeter, concludes, from the fculpture and inferiptions, that thefe ftones were about the age of Edward the firft, and fuppofes the words CORS V. to be corfu, the old French term for body. Others conjecture, with greater probability, that V. is intended for Urien, and that it is the tomb of Urien St. Pierre, knight. According to Dugdale, he lived in the reign of Henry the third, and died 1239, leaving, by his wife Margaret, a fon Urien de St. Pierre, then fixteen years of age. " He was alfo a knight, and left iffue John de St. Pere, 8 E. III. who was probably the laft male heir of that line, for Ifabella de St. Pere, his fifter and heirefs, about 30 E. III. was mar- ried to Sir Walter Cokefey, knight, who died 6 H. IV. f " It * The engraving in the Archasologia is more cor- it is called in the Gentleman's Magazine, and which reft than that in the Gentleman's Magazine: for the puzzled Mr. Pegge, does notexift in the manner re- hand which holds the crofs is clafped, and not open, prefented in the engravings ; it is only that part of the In both, however, there is a defeft 5 the blank flip, as ftone which is not cut down. f Gent. Mag. vol. 35. p. 72, 6 CHAPTER r. It alfo appears, from the pedigree of the Lewis's here annexed, that about this period David, fon of Philip ap Lewellin, was polTeiTor of St. Pierre ; but whether it devolved to him by purchafe, or by marriage, there are no documents in the family to determine. Philip ap Lewellin, founder of the line of Lewis of St. Pierre, was a younger fon of Lewellin, lord of St. Oere, in Caermar- thenfhire, who became lord of Tredegar, by efpoufing Angharad, daughter of fir Morgan Meredith. The fucceflion has continued in an uninterrupted line from the firft fettlement of David ap Philip of St. Pierre. The prefent pro- prietor is Charles Lewis, efquire, on whom the eflate devolved, by the 'death of his brother Thomas Lewis, efquire, without iffue. Leiveiiin ap Ivor, fixth defcendant from C a divor— -Angharad, dr. of Sir Morgan Meredith, Lord of Tredegar, the Gieat, Lord of St. Clere in Caermarthenfhire. I (See the Morgan Pedigree.) Morgan ap Lewellin. Philip Lewellin ap Ivor — Ncfte, dr. and heirefs to Gwillim Sayes ap Madog (See the p;digree of the Morgans.) ' } ap Howell Velyrl, Efij. I David ap Philip of St. Pere, Efq.-— Cryfty, dr. to David ap Jenan ap Rees Voil. I ' Lewis ap David ap Philip of St. Pere, Efq.— Jane, dr. of Sir John Wellh of Lanwerne. I ' Thomas Lewis of St. Ptie, Efq. — Elizabeth, dr. of Morgan ap Jenkin ap Philip, William Lewis of St. Pere, Efq.— -Margaret, dr. of John Ragland. I 1 George Le wis of St. Pere, Efq. — Anne, dr. of John Herk. Henry Lewis of St. Pere, Efq. 1547 — Biidget, dr. and heirefs of Thomas Kemeys. William Lewis of St. Pere, Efq. 1 583— Margaret, dr. of Robert Gamige, Efq. of Coitie, Glamorganthirc. ( J Henry Lewis of St. Pere, Efq. was in poffefiion 1600 and 163c— I J Thomas Lewis of St. Pere, Elq. 1666— -Joanna, dr. of Jofeph Langton, Efq. ( — ^ Thomas Lewis of St. Pere, Efq. 1682— -De la Rivers Morgan, dr. of Sir Thomas Morgan of Chemlon, Hereford/hire. _ J I Thomas Lewis of St. Pere, Efq. d. 1734— -Third wife, Jane Rachel Becher, of Hawberry, Bedfordfhire. I Morgan Lewis of St. Pere, Efq. d. 1779 — Rachel, dr. of Charles Van of Lanwern. . I 1 i i 71 i \ Thomas, d. without Charles. =Sufjiina, dr. of F. Davis, efq. John Craven, Redlor Edward. Jane. Ellen, iffue, 1790. I by Ann, cohcirefs of Jas. Higford, of St. Pierre, &c. I of Dixon, (iloucefterihire. ( i i i i ) Thomas. Charles James. Francis. Edward Hig ford. Henry. Frances Sufanna. [ 7 ] CHAPTER 2. Mathern. — Ancient Refidence of the BiJJiops of Landaff. — Church. — Infcription on King Theodorick. — Moinfcourt. — Runjion. TT^ROM St. Pierre I croffed the brook called Pool Meyric, which falls into the Severn, and forms the Pill of St. Pierre, and walked about half a mile to Mathern, formerly the epifcopal refidence of the bifhops of Landaff. It is pleafantly fituated in an undulating country, a mile and a half to the fouth weft of Chepftow, and is remarkable in the ecclefiaftical hiftory of Mon- mouthfhire. Leland calls Mathern " a preaty pyle in Bafe Venteland, longing to the bilhop of Landaff*." The laft bifhop who refided at this place was William Beaw, who died in 1 706, with whom the grandmother of the prefent tenant lived in the capacity of houfekeeper. The palace was built by different bifhops. The tower, porch, and other parts to the north and n&rth eafl, were probably conflructed by John de la Zouch, a monk of the order of Minorites, who was confecrated in 1408. Miles Salley, who was promoted to the fee in 1504, erected the chapel, hall, kitchen, and adjoining apartments ■f. The prefent kitchen. was the ancient fitting room, and the hall is a well proportioned lofty apartment. The palace, which is a quadrangular building, inclofing a court yard, is now con- verted into a farm houfe, and is in a fad ftate of dilapidation ; it flill, however, preferves fome remains of ancient grandeur, and from its irregularities has a piclurefque effect. The outfide ornaments of the eaflern window of the chapel are ftill vifible. The dilapidations have even extended to the library, which was once not inconfiderable. : There now remain only a few worm-eaten volumes of the ancient fathers, without covers, and mouldering into duft. Within the memory * Leland> Itin, vol. 5. fol. 6. | Godwin, De Prsefulibus Anglic. 8 CHAPTER 2. memory of the prefent tenant, a fine porch formed the entrance into the yard, and was remarkable for its height and breadth, being fufheiently large to admit two waggons abreaft. The eflate, now belonging to the bifhop of Landaff, is let for forty pounds a year: feveral adjoining buildings, particularly the public houfe, were appendages to the palace, when the bifhops refided here in a flyle of magnificence fuitable to their rank and fituation. Mathern is fuppofed to derive its name from Merthur Tewdric, which fignifies the martyr Theodorie, who, according to the ancient legends of the fee, and an infeription in the chancel, was buried in the church ; the hiftory of this per- fonaee is thus related by Godwin, in his account of the fee of Landaff*; " The manor of Matherne, where there is now a palace, was given to the bifhops of Landaff by Maurice, king of Glamorganfhire, about the year 560, on the following occafion ; His father, St. Theodorie, as he is ufually called, having refigned his crown to this fon, embraced the life of a hermit. The Saxons in- vading the country, Theodorie was reluctantly called from his hermitage to take the command of the army ; he defeated them near Tintern upon the Wye ; being mortally wounded in the engagement, he precipitated his return, that he might die among his friends, and defired his fon to erect a church, and bury him oa the fpot where he breathed his laft : he had fcarcely proceeded five miles, when he expired at a place near the conflux of the Wye and the Severne; hence, according to his defire, a fmall chapel being erected, his body was placed in a ftone coffin. As I was giving orders to repair this coffin, which was either broken by chance, or decayed by age, I difcovered his bones, not in the fmallefl degree changed, though after a period of a thouland years, the fkull retaining the aper- ture of a large wound, which appeared as if it had been recently inflicted. Mau- rice gave the contiguous cflatc to the church, and affigned to the place the name of Merthur Tewdrick, or the martyrdom of Theodorick, who, becaufe he pe- rilhed in battle againft the enemies of the chriftian name, is efteemcd a martyr." In commemoration of thefe facts, a church is faid to have been erected on its prefent fite by his fon Meurig, or Maurice, who is fuppofed by fome to be the father * Art. Oudoecius, De Prscfulibus Anglis. MATHERN. 9 father of the Arthur fo renowned in Britifti (lory. Bifhop Godwin repaired the tomb, and compofed the epitaph or memorial, which is placed on the north fide of the chancel. " Here lyeth intombed the body of Theoderick, King of Morganuch or Glamorgan, commonly called St. Thewdrick, and accounted a martyr, becaufe he was /lain in a battle againfl the Saxons, being then Pagans, and in defence of the Chriftian religion. The battle was fought at Tintern, where he obtained a great victory. He died here being in his way homeward, three days after the battle, having taken order with Maurice his fon who fuc- ceeded him in the Kingdom, that in the fame place he fhould happen to deceafe, a church fhould be built, and his body buri- ed in y fame, which was accordingly performed in the year 600." Maurice is faid to have given the manor of Mathern to the fee of Landaff ; but all thefe accounts are very uncertain and fabulous. The prefent church is fo much altered and repaired, that it is difficult to afcertain the a;ra of its conftruction ; it is, however, much pofterior to the Con- queft. The body is of rag (tone, and is plaftered ; the tower, which is lofty and fquare, is of hewn ftone uncoloured ; the windows are gothic, but of different ages. The infide of the church confifts of a nave, two fide aifles, and a chancel ; the nave is feparated from the aifles by low circular arches, repofing on flender columns ; at the extremity of the north aifle is a pointed arch which gives a whimfical and motley appearance to this fide of the colonade. A few remains of painted glafs windows, which feem to reprefent armorial bear- ings, prove its former magnificence ; among which, I noticed the portcullis, the C crefl IO CHAPTER 2. croft of the Beaufort family. The bifhop's throne is a fimple wooden pew ; over the feat is infcribed, " Pofuit fibi et fucceiToribus Theophilus Landavenfis " Epifcopus Ann. Dom. 1622. Refecit Ed. CreiTet, 1671." The firft of thefe biflhops, mentioned in this infcription, was Theophilus Field, fellow of Pembroke Hall, Cambridge, and rector of Cotton, Suffolk, who was bifhop of Landaff in 1619, translated to St. David's 1628. The other Edward CreiTet, dean of Hereford, was promoted to the fee of LandafT in 1748, and died in 1755. In the church are interred a few of the billiops who refided at Mathern, and died without being tranllated. I could not difcover any traces of their tombs ; but bilhop Godwin has recorded their names. Hugh Jones, who was the firft Welfliman raifed to the fee, was prefented in 1566, and died in 1 574. William Blethyn, another Welfliman, was confecrated bifhop in 1575, and died in 1590. Matthew Murray, a native of Scotland; he was provoft of Eton College, and bilhop of Femes; was tranllated to the fee of Llandaff in 1627, and departed this life in 1639. But the moft remarkable perfonage in this lift was Anthony Kitchin, who was a Minorite friar. His monkifh appellation was Dunftan, but he alTumed, at the Reformation, his real name : he is mentioned by bifhop Godwin as the fhame and reproach of the fee ; although addicted to the Roman catholic worfliip, he was the only bifhop who took the oath of fupremacy, according to the new forms prefcribed by Henry the eighth and Elizabeth. Of him bifhop Godwin fays, in the Englifh edition of his work: " He wr.s confecrated May 3, 1 545, and endur- ing all the tempefiuous changes that happened in the meane time, continued till the 5 yeere of her Majeftie that now reigneth, viz. the yeere 1563, and then died, having firft fo impoverifhed the bifhopricke by unreafonable demifes, of whatfoever was demifeable, as there was no great caufe he fhould be fo loth to leave it Sir John Harrington, fpeaking of the fmall revenues which were annexed to the 2 fee * See Godwin's Lives of the Bifliops, Lat. and Eng. edit. Article Llandaff. MOIN' SCOUR T. ii fee of Landaff, accufes him as the caufe, and, in a quibbling age, heaps upon the name of Kitchin pun upon pun *. Near Mathern church is Moin'fcourt ; in ancient deeds it is called Monk's- court, and an adjoining field is denominated Monk's mead. Thefe appellations feem to imply that it was formerly a religious houfe, and probably the cell of fome monastery. The prefent ftru&ure was built or repaired by bifliop Godwin, and his arms, carved in Hone, are placed over the front door. It was the refidence of Thomas Hughes, a gentleman of considerable property, whofe family was con- nected with that of bifliop Godwin by marriage ; his grand-daughter Sarah, conveyed it to her hufband Richard Lyfter of Roughton in Shropshire, and it is now the property of their great-grandfon John Owen, Efq. of Penros in Mont- gomeryfhire : it is ufed as a farm houfe. A large (lone gate-way leads into the court yard, which is much more ancient than the houfe ; it is extremely picturefque, and is formed by a high gothic porch, flanked with lofty towers ; a beautiful and fpreading oak overnangs one extremity, and confiderably heightens the effect. An engraving of this portal is given, from a drawing by Sir Richard Hoare. In the walls, which inclofe the court yard, I obferved two of the Roman in- fcriptions, which Gibfon, in the fupplement to Camden, mentions as having been found at Caerleon, and transferred by bifhop Godwin to their prefent situation : they are confiderably defaced, and without Gibfon's afiiftance, I could not have fully * It is doubtlefie a wonderfull antiquity that my having in thofe dayes more tare to fift the bifhopricks authour produced of Llandaff, that it profeifed then the biihops, elfe how was it poflible for a man of chriftianity, and had a church for religion in the that rancke to ring Cantate domino canticum novum four yeare of 180. But alas, for a man to boaft of great times in fourteen yeeres, and never fing out of tune, nobility, and goe in ragged clothes, and a church to if he had not lov'd the Kitchen better then the church, be praifed for great antiquity, and make ruinous Howbeit, though he might feeme for name fake to (howes, is in mine opinion according to the vulgar favour the Kitchen, yet in fpoyling that fea hee was as proverbe, a great boaft, and a fmall roajl. But by this little friend to the Kitchen as the reft, fpoyling the author's relation it appeares, this roaji was fo marred woods and good provifions that Should have warm'd by an ill Cooke, as by a worfe Kitchen; for in the year it, which gave occafion to Dr. Babbington, now bi- 1 545, being the 37 yeere of Henry the eighth, Doctor (hop of Worcefter, to call it Aph without land, and Kitchen being made of an idle abbot, a bulie bifhop, Doctor Morgan after to remove to Saint Alfaph, from and wading through thofe hazardous times that en ■ thence not for name Sake, but for his owne name lake, Sued till the firlt yeere of Queen Elizabeth, to fave that is Mpfe-gaineJ"'-^Nagx Antiquae, Vol. i.p. 191. himfelfe was content to ffoik his bilhoprick : Satan C z iz CHAPTER 2. fully deciphered them. The firft is carved in grit-ftone ; the letters are an inch in length : I eafily. deciphered the firft feven, and the laft word Reftituit. The infcription commemorated the reftoration of the Temple of Diana, by T. FL Poftumius Varus. T. FL. POSTVMIVS VARVS. V. C. LEG. TEMPL. DIANAE RESTITVIT. Interpreted by Gibfon, to mean, " Titus Flavius Poftumius Varus Veteranus Cohortis Legionis Secunda; Templum Diana; reftituit." But by Horfley, as im- plying " Vir clariffimus Legatus, &c." The other infcription is cut in free-ftone : the letters are an inch and a half in length, and well proportioned : I traced the words Pro falute Aug. N. N. Severi et Antonini, evidently proving it to be a votive altar, dedicated to the Emperor Severus and his two fons Caracalla and Geta, with this peculiarity, that the words Geta Csefaris, feem to have been erafed, after his affaffination. PRO SALVTE AVGG. N. N. SEVERI ET ANTONI NI P. SALTIENVS P. F. MAE, CIA THALAMVS H ADRI. PRAEF. LEG. II. AVG. C. VAMPEIANO, ET LVCILIAN. From Mathern I returned to the new paflage on horfeback ; I entered the high road two miles from Chepftow, and turning to the left, proceeded ftrait till I came to the gate-way leading into the park of St. Pierre. At this point three roads diverge ; one goes through Caerwent to Newport, the fecond to Caldecot, and the third leads to Portfcvvit and the new paflage : thefe roads are narrow and ftony, but are pleafantly lined with " Hedge row elms, and coppice green." The R U N S T O N. 13 The flopes of the eminences are feathered with groves of fore ft; trees, and much underwood. On one fide I caught glimpfes of the broad Severn, of the fteep Cliffs of Auft, and the rich hills of Glocefterfhire ; on the other I obferved two confpicuous hills of an oblong fhape, which tower above Lanvair, and flielve gra- dually into a cultivated ridge, that again rifes and terminates in the rocky and wood-crowned cliffs of Piercefield. Oppofite to the back road, leading to St. Pierre, I turned near a farm houfe, called Hyers Gate ; and riding through a narrow lane to Broadwell farm, af- cended to Runfton, which was once a place of fome magnitude and antiquity, if we may judge from the extent and appearance of its ruins, and from the broad caufeways which lead towards it ; they occupy an eminence on the fide of the road, leading to Shire Newton, in the midft of a thick and folitary wood. The fite of the place may be traced to a confiderable diftance by numerous foundations ; but not a fingle building remains, except an old barn, and a dilapidated chapel. Evening had juft fet in, and the moon fhone in its full fplendour, affording light fufficient, through the gloom of the furrounding trees, to examine the ftruc- ture : it is a ftone building of fmall dimeniions, with the remains of a tower at its weftern extremity. The door-way is covered with a fimple ftone lintel, and the windows are all rounded ; the nave is feparated from the chancel by a ftone fcreen, in the midft of which is a low and narrow femicircular arch of the molt fimple kind : the roof was fallen down, and the pavement which remained was fo flippery, that I could fcarcely walk upon it without falling ; a large and broken font was lying on the floor, among the weeds and elder trees. The obfcurity of this ruined fan&uary, was only broken by the gleams of moonfhine, and the melancholy filence interrupted by the found of my footfteps, and the fcreams of the birds, which I difturbed from their nightly repofe. This chapel is annexed to Mathem ; fervice has been performed here within this century j and about thirty years ago, a man of the name of William Jones was here interred. The eftate of Runfton belongs to the family of St. Pierre, with which parifh it is joined in the poor rates. From Broadwell farm, a narrow and hollow way leads into the high road from Chepftow to Newport, at the village of Crick ; its depth and narrownefs, and the height i 4 CHAPTER 2. height of the hedges on each fide, afforded a ftriking fpecimen of the hollow roads which were fo common in Monmouthfhire before the conftruction of turnpikes, and reminded me of an anecdote, which my own experience proved to be but little exaggerated. The gentlemen of the county oppofing the turnpike act, Valen- tine Morris of Piercefield, who was a ftrenuous promoter of it, was examined at the bar of the houfe of Commons ; being afked " What roads are there in Mon- mouthlliire ? " He replied, " none." " How then do you travel ? " " In ditches." [ «5 1 CHAPTER 3. Sudbrook Encampment. — Chapel. — Portfcwft. — Caldecot Cajf/e. O the weft of the new pafTage inn, near the ruins of Sudbrook or Trinity Chapel, are remains of an entrenchment, which are ufually fuppofed to be Roman ; they occupy a flat furface on the edge of a perpendicular cliff, and are nearly in the form of a ftretched bow *, whofe cord is the fea coaft. The entrench- ment is formed by a triple rampart of earth, and two ditches ; the two exterior ramparts are low, and in many places deftroyed ; the interior is in greater preferva- tion, and not lefs than twenty feet in height. On the two extreme parts of the elevated rampart towards the fea, I obferved heaps of {tones and rubbifh, which feem to be the remains of ancient buildings; among thefe were two or three ranges of large ftones, placed on each other, without cement, and others of the fame kind which had fallen down, ftrewed the adjacent ground. A large opening in the rampart towards the north, ftill remaining, was formerly the great entrance; the diftance from the opening to the cliff meafured about 77 yards, the chord 200. This encampment being formed on an eminence, rifing abruptly from Caldecot Level, I could eafily trace, that the fide towards the Level, had been once the ftiore y and that, therefore, the place occupied by the ramparts was a peninfula. It is generally imagined that this entrenchment, in its prefent ftate, is not per- fect, and that half of it has been deftroyed by the fea, which has likewife carried away * Harris, in his account of this entrenchment, is ex- He is fo much prepoffefTed with the idea of Roman tremely erroneous : he defcribes it as fquare, with the antiquities, that he confiders the moft trifling and un- church Handing in the middle. The word fquare, has certain appearances as indications of Roman origin, induced many authors, who have never feen it, to con- I think it neceflary to make this obfervation, becaufe fider it as Roman. Harris deferve*s applaufe for hav- his accounts have b een fervilely copied by fuperficial ing firft turned the public attention to the antiquities writers. See Harris's account of the antiquities in of Monmouthmire; but I am concerned to add, that Monmouthfliire, in the Archseologiaj Vol. 2, I found many of his defcriptioii; extremely inaccurate. 16 CHAPTER 3. away part of the church yard. It is likewife by many fuppofed to have been a maritime fortrefs, erected by the Romans to cover the landing of their troops, and their firft flation in Siluriaj an opinion grounded on the erroneous defcription of Harris, and on the difcovery of a fingle coin, ftruck by the city of Elaia in honour of the emperor Severus *. For notwithfianding repeated enquiries among the farmers and labourers of the vicinity, I could not learn that any coins or Roman antiquities had been found within the memory of the prefent generation. It has been alfo attributed to the Britifh, Saxons, and Danes ; but was occupied, if not conftructed by Harold during his inva- fion of Gwent. The pi&urefque ruins of the chapel Hand on the outfide of the great rampart, to the fouth-eaft next the fea : the building is wholly in the gothic ftyle, and of very fmall dimensions. It now ftands at the diftance of half a mile from any habitation, but was probably, in former times, the chapel to a great and contigu- ous manfion ; for we find that in the 12th century, John Southbrooke is men- tioned, as being entitled to houfe-boot and hey-boot, from the Conqueft, for his houfe at Southbrooke -f . Within the memory of feveral perfons now living, divine fervice was performed therein ; and a labourer whom I met on the fpot, affifted forty years ago as pall-bearer, and pointed out the half of a dilapidated grave ftone, under which the corpfe was inferred. After indulging my curiofity at this place, I defcended the rocky eminence into the marmy level of Caldecot, and walked to Portfcwit, now a village at the diftance of a mile from the more, but formerly waflied by the fea, and probably the * " That this was a Roman work, the Britifli bricks which kind of great pieces the Italians call Medagli- and Roman coins there found are moll certain argu- ons, were extraordinary coins, not for common ufe, nients ; among which, the reverend father in God but coined by the emperors, either to be distributed Francis, biihop of LandafF, by whofe information I by[way of largefs in triumphs, or to be fent for tokens write this, imparted to me of his kindnefs one of the to men well deierving, or elfe by free cities, to the greateft pieces that I ever few coined, of Corinthian glory and memory of good princes. What name this copper, by the city of Elaia, in the lefTer Afia, to the place anciently had, is hard to be found, but it feems honour of the emperor Severus, with this Greek in- to have been the port and landing place for Venta Si- fcription. " ayt. kai. a. CErrri. cebhpoc. nEP. i.e. lurum, which is but two miles from it." — Holland's " The emperor Caefar Lucius Septimus Severus Per- tranilation of Camden, vol. 2. p. 485, quoted alfo by • tinax and on the revtrfe, an horfeman with a tro- Gough. phy erefted before him, but the letters not legi- f Deed on the Chafe of Wentwood. Hiltory of ble, fave under him, " eaaiajin," i.e. of the Elaians; Monmouthihire, Appendix, p. 189. fiMittat Man/ti.iP'V h ,;■./,■;; K-Dmcs.Stnmi PORTSCWIT. 17 the port to Caerwent : its name, Port is Coed, or the port under the wood, feems to corroborate this opinion *, and it is ftill further confirmed by the fituation, as I evidently difcerned that the fea once advanced as far as the village. Caradoc in his hiftory, tranflated by Powel, informs us, that Harold, after conquering part of South Wales from prince Gryffyth, built a magnificent houfe at this place, which he calls Portafcyth in Monmouthfhire ; " and flowing it " with great quantity of provifion, fplendidly entertained the king, who ho- " noured him with a vifit. This was by no means pleafing to Tody, to fee his " younger brother in greater efteem and favour with the king than himfelf, and " having concealed his difpleafure for a time, could not forbear at length but " difcover his greivance ; for one day at Windfor, while Harold reached the cup " to king Edward, Tofty, ready to burft for envy, that his brother was fo much " refpected beyond himfelf, could not refrain to run furioufly upon him, and *' pulling him by the hair, dragged him to the ground ; for which unmannerly " action, the king forbad him the court. But he, with continued rancour and " malice, rides to Hereford, where Harold had many fervants preparing an enter- " tainment for the king, and fetting upon them, with his followers, lopped off *' the hands and legs of fome, the arms and heads of others, and threw them into ** the buts of wine and other liquors, which were put in for the king's drinking, *' and at his departure charged the fervants to acquaint him, " That of other *' frefh meats he might carry with him what he pleafed, but for fauce he fhould ** find plenty ready provided for him." For which barbarous offence, the king " pronounced a fentence of perpetual banifhment upon him. But Caradoc ap *' Gruffydh gave a finifliing ftroke to Harold's houfe, and the king's entertain- " ment at Portafcyth ; for coming thither Ihortly after Tofly's departure, to be " revenged upon Harold, he killed all the workmen and labourers, with all the M fervants he could find, and utterly defacing the building, carried away all the " coftly materials, which with great charges and expence, had been brought 44 thither to beautify and adorn the ftru&ure -f". The * Others fuppofe, Portfcwit to be a corruption of Welm. Evans's Specimens of YV'elfli Poetry . . Port Scewin, from Efcewin,king of the Welt Saxons, f P. 97. V ho is faid to have landed his forces here to aiTail the D i8 CHAPTER j, The ruins of Caldecot or Calecoyd * caftle, (land at the extremity of marfhy plains, called Caldecot Level, and are fituated in the midft of a flat mea- dow to the north-eaft of the village, about a mile from the Briftol channel. From this low fituation, they feemed at fome diftance a rude and unformed mafs; but as we approached, affumed a more regular appearance ; and in thofe parts where they were broken, and the yellow tints of the done contrafted with the thick foliage of the ivy, were not deficient in picturefque effect. A ridge of land, probably once fortified, connects the weftern fide of the caflle with the village. The ground on the outfide of the moat is quite marfhy, and appears to have been overflowed, perhaps by the tide, fo that the caftle flood on a peninfula. This marfhy plain is traverfed by the brook Nedern, which flows from Caerwent, and winding round the eaitern and louthern iides of the caflle, falls into the Severn at Caldecot Pill, The caflle is furrounded by a moat, and in its firfl appearance feems to be of a quadrangular fhape, but is an irregular polygon. The area in its greater! length is ico yards it differs in breadth ; the greatefl width is 75 yards, and not more than 40 towards the eaflern fide, where the walls trend in a circular direction. The walls, the thicknefs of which varies from 5 to 9 feet, are formed with coarfe materials, but the towers are faced with hewn grit ftone, the mafonry of which is extremely peat and compact, The caflle feems to have been conflructed and repaired at different intervals, but on the whole bears a Norman character. The round tower, in the middle of the fide fronting the village, was probably erected near the time of the conquefl, for the doorway has a rounded arch ; the other parts feem to be of a later date, as all the porches and windows are pointed, but of that fpecies which was ufed not long after the introduction of what is called gothic architecture. The principal entrance is to the fouth weft ; it is a grand arched gateway, which was ftrength* ened with two portcullifes, and flanked with maffive turrets, now fo much covered with ivy, that the upper part is fcarcely difcernible. In the infide of the arch above, are round holes, formed for the purpofe of pouring down hot lead or ftones on the befiegers. The flone engroined roof of the porch is flill remaining. la * A corruption, as Mr. Owen informs me, of CM y Coed, or the (kirt of the wood. SOUTH EAST VIEW OF CALDIfOT CASTLE. Fuiiis/iai Mm ch 1.1S00 by CudcUkDavies. Strand CALDECOT CASTLE. 19 In the towers on each fide, are three oblong apartments with chimnies : oppofite is another entrance, which is a hexagon tower, with a machicolated roof. A Tally port, which is more pointed than the arch of the grand entrance, leads into the moat. At the northern angle is a high round tower, on a mound of earth, encircled with a ditch ; this was undoubtedly the keep or citadel, and feems to have com- municated with all the towers, by means of galleries on the battlements. Another tower, at the fouthern angle, is almoft dilapidated ; it 'appears to have been of an oblong fhape, terminating in a circular projection towards the moat, which was a favourite figure with the Saxon architects. To the eaft of this building is a large breach in the walls, which opens a profpect of the area, with the citadel rifing in the back ground ; from this point of view, fir Richard Hoare took the drawing of the annexed engraving. Between this tower and the principal gateway, was probably the baronial hall, which we could trace by the ornamented gothic windows. The infide is much dilapidated, but founciations of buildings, projecting into the area, are frill dif- coverable : in the lower parts of the north-eaft walls, are four fire-places, of no inelegant fliape, which prove the exiftence of apartments on this fide. On the back of one of thefe chimneys, I obferved traces of the fpecies of mafonry called herring-bone, which was ufed in buildings of an early period. The hiftoy of Caldecot caflle is obfcure, and I have been able to difcover only fcanty documents of its founders and proprietors. The ponderous flyle of the building, and the chinks and merlons, which are few in number, prove its anti- quity : probably the moft ancient part may have been the caflle begun by Harold, and afterwards fmifhed by the Normans, while they were engaged in fubjugating and fecuring Gwent. This fortrefs was of confiderable importance for the pur- pofe of retaining in fubjection the fouth eaftern parts of Monmouthfhire. It was early in the poffeffion of the great family of Bohun. According to Dugdale, Humphrey, earl of Hereford *, the fifth of that line, did homage in 1221, and had * Camden erroneoufly aflerts, that the caftle of the great Bohun family, Earls of Hereford, and he- Caldecot belonged to the conftablemip of England ; reditary conllables of England ; from which circum- fout it appears to have been the private property of ftance this miftake of Camden is derived. D 2 20 CHAPTER j, had livery of his caflle of Caldecot, which was one of his father's poffeffions * * he was called the good earl of Hereford, and dying in 1 27 5, was buried before the high altar in the abbey of Lanthony. Humphrey, his fifth defcendant, died in 1373, leaving only two daughters ; Eleanor, who efpoufed Thomas of Woodftock, duke of Glouccfler, fixth fon of Edward the Third ; and Mary, the wife of Henry of Bolingbroke, afterwards Henry the fourth. Thomas of Woodftock obtained the earldom of Hereford, the conflablefhip of England, and, among other pof- feffions, the caflle of Caldecot. Probably the caflle, on the attainder which preceded his affaffination in 1397, y/as fecured by the crown. Humphrey, his only fori, was compelled to ac- company the king to Ireland, and imprifoned in the caflle of Trim. On the depofition of Richard the fecond, being releafed by the new fovereign, Henry the fourth, he either was fhipwrecked as he was croffing into England, or perifhed by the peflilence in 1399. On his death, without iffue, his filter Anne became coheirefs to the large pof- feffions of the houfe of Bohun : fhe married Edmund earl of Stafford, the anceflor of the duke of Buckingham ; who, according to Dugdale -f, did homage in 140a for his wife's inheritance, and died feifed of Caldecot caflle. He was flain at the battle of Shrewfbury, leaving an infant fon, who became a ward to the crown. Soon after the acceffion of Henry the fifth, the poffeffions of Humphrey de Bohun were divided, by a& of parliament, between the king, as heir of his mother Mary, and Anne, countefs Stafford, widow of the earl of Stafford, as heirefs of Eleanor. It appears from the partition roll of the eflates of Humphrey de Bohun, in the archives of the duchy of Lancafter, that the caftle of Caldecot was compre- hended in the portion affigned to the crown §. On the attainder of Henry the fixth, it was transferred to Edward the fourth by act of parliament, who granted it, with many other poffeffions, in tail male, to William lord Herbert of Raglan, afterwards earl of Pembroke, for his great fervices againfl the houfe of Lancafler ||. The earl of Pembroke being flain at the battle of Banbury, it reverted to Henry the fixth, * Dugdale, vol. i. p. 180. || Archives of the duchy of Lancafter. Rot. 4. f Dugdale, art. Stafford. Ed. 4 No. Z2. § Archives of the duchy of Lancafter. Roll, 12 prefs. 266. Dugdale, art. Stafford. CALDECOT CASTLE. 21 fixth, during his mort-lived fuccefs, and was again refumed by Edward the fourth. Richard the third reftored it, by act of parliament, to Henry duke of Buckingham, who had principally contributed to raife him to the throne : he was lineally defcended from Anne, countefs of Stafford, and in the bill, is ftyled " heir of blood to Humphry de Bohun, and rightful inheritor of all the manors, " lordihips, and lands, which were parcel of the inheritance, and chofen in pur- " partie, by Henry the fifth, and which, on the attainder of Henry the fixth, " would have reverted to the duke of Buckingham, if they had not been ap- " propriated by ad of parliament to Edward the fourth." Being, however, dif- fatisfied with Richard, and raifing forces to fupport the title of the earl of Richmond to the crown, the duke of Buckingham was arretted and beheaded at Salifbury. His fon and fucceffor Henry, being accufed of plotting againft the life of Henry the eighth, and afpiring to the crown, was, by the intrigues of cardinal Wolfey, fentenced to death, and beheaded in 1521. The parliament having in the enfu- ing DESCENDANTS OF HUMPHREY DE BOHUN. HUMPHREY de BOHUN, earl of Hereford, &c. d. i372=JOAN, dr. of Richard earl of Arundel f Mary, m. Henry iv. duke of Lancafter. ) Eleanor, m. Thomas de Wuodftock, d. 1399. Henry v. duke of Lancafter. Henry VI. duke of Lancafter. I : — Edmund, earl of Stafford, 7 = j KN ._ $ William Kourchier, k. at the battle of Shrewibury, 1403. J 1 rtNNE — £ earl of Ewe. Humphrey duke of = Anne dr. of Ralph Nerille, earl Buckingham, &c. d. 1460. of Wellmorland. Humphrey, k. at the battle of = Margaret, dr. and coheirefs of St. Alban's 1456. I Edmund duke of Somerfet. Henry duke of Buckingham, beheaded, 1484. Henry duke of Buckingham, beheaded 1521. n Humphrey, d. 1399. D 3 2Z CHAPTER 3. ing year paffed an act for his attainder, his pofleffions were forfeited to th&.crown* and Caldecot cattle was annexed by the king to the duchy of Lancafter *. Since this period it has belonged to the duchy, and is, like the other eftates, held by lease f . During the reigns of Elizabeth, James the firft, and Charles the firft, it was granted to the Earls of Worcefter, at the annual rent of £, $2. 13 s. 4^. In 1675, it was leafed to William Wolfeley for fixty years, and foon after the expiration of that term to John Hanbury, Efq. of Pont y Pool j and is now held by his fon Capel Hanbury Leigh, Efq. The caftle appears to have been long in a ftate of dilapidation ; for at a court held in 16 13, the jury ftate, " they doe prefent, that there is an old antient " caftle in Caldicott, and that it is ruinous and decayed ; that the caufe of the " decay thereof they cannot prefent, for it was before the memory of the jury, " or any of them, by whom, or to what value they know not Caldecot church is not unworthy of notice. It confifts of a nave, a fide aifle to the north, with a mafllve tower in the middle, and a chancel. The ftyle of architecture is gothic: the nave is feparated from the fide aifle by five pointed arches on cluftered piers ; the windows are ornamented gothic, and contain fe- veral remains of painted glafs, principally reprefenting coats of arms. The church is dedicated to St. Mary : on the outfide of the wall, over the fouthern door, is a fmall figure of the Virgin in a niche ; and in a recefs in the wall, within the porch, is a headlefs recumbent figure in ftone, which is called the image of the founder. The living is a vicarage, and was formerly in the gift of the monks of Lan- thony, to which it was probably granted, by one of their great benefactors, the earls of Hereford of the Bohun family. The patronage was fome time in the poffeffionof the Kemeys family, and now belongs to Mr. Johnfon in virtue of his marriage * For the account of Caldecot caftle have been warren of rabbits, birds, and fifti. The firft leafe is confulted, archives of the duchy of Lancafter ; Dug- dated in the time of Elizabeth, to John Vaughan ; dale, art. Bohun, Woodftock, Stafford, and Herbert ; and it is ftated to be within the Lordfhip of Kid- Edmonfons Heraldry, art. Conllable of England. welly: Archives. + The Campus of Caldecot appears to have been % Archive* j Inquifitio Com. Mon ,h , Tertia. pars, granted by leafe diftincl from the caftle, with the No. xo. CALDECOT. 23 marriage with the heirefs. The tythes are Angularly appropriated. The great tythes belong to Mr. Hill, and the vicarial are divided into feven unequal portions, of which fix are appropriated to fix lay vicars, and the feventh belongs to the incumbent. The denomination of lay vicars applied to the perfons to whom fix portions of thefe tythes are appropriated, feems to denote the exiftence of a confiderable religious houfe in this place. Neither Tanner or Dugdale take any notice of fuch an eftablifhment; but the author of the Secret Memoirs of Monmouth- fliire, mentions a priory houfe at Caldecot in the reign of Charles the fecond, belonging to Sir Charles Kemeys*, in whofe defcendants the patronage of the living was veiled. * Secret Memoirs of Monmouthmire, p. 120. ENTRANCE OF CA1DECOT CAS1UE . Ti&lffhcd March 1 \8oa by Oidrll lc2)/o-ies . charged with all its gravel and pebbles. Irregular it was then cafed with hewn ftone. pieces of ftone were placed in a kind of frame, and E 26 CHAPTER 4. the diftance of a hundred yards from the weftern entrance ; this is now de- ftroyed. Another mofaic pavement is ftill vifible in a field at the fouth weft angle : it was inclofed within a fmall building, which preferved it from deftruction ; but the roof having been taken down, it is haftening fail to decay. The form and general pofition are eafily diftimguilhed, but many of the tefTera? are loft, and the colour of others much damaged. On my laft vifit to Caerwent, the pavement was fo much covered with weeds, that it may be faid only to " Live in defcription, and look green in fong." I (hall therefore prefent to the reader the accurate account of my friend Mr. Wyndham, who faw it when it was firft discovered, and in its perfect ftate. " The pavement is in length twenty-one feet fix inches, and in breadth eighteen feet. A border, edged with the Greek fcroll and fret, furrounds the whole, but on the north fide this border, being upwards of three feet, is much broader than on the other fide. This was defigned, in order to reduce the cir- cles within a fquare. Thefe circles are about three feet in diameter, and are encircled with a variety of elegant ornaments, and feparated from each other by regular and equal diftances. I think there are thirteen of thefe circles. The pieces of which the pavement is compofed are nearly fquare, the breadth of them being about the fize of a narrow die. Thefe are of various colours, blue, white, yellow, and red ; the firft and fecond are of ftone, and the yellow and red are of terra cotta. By a judicious mixture of thofe colours, the whole pattern is as ftrongly defcribed as it would have been in oil colours. The origi- nal level is perfectly preferved, and the whole compofition is fo elegant and well executed, that I think it has not been furpaffed by any mofaic pavement that has been difcovered on this, or even on the other fide of the Alps. In my opinion it is equal to thofe beautiful pavements which are preferved in the palace of the king of Naples at Portice. I am ftrongly inclined to think, that it is of the fame age with Agricola*." The field in which this mofaic pavement-'Jies, contains feveral hillocks and mounds of * Archaeologia. C A E 11 W E N T. z-j of earth, which were evidently formed by foundations and ruins of old buildings. I underftood, from feveral of the natives, that another much larger pavement had been difcovered, but the proprietor conceiving that his ground would be injured by the excavations, ordered it to be clofed. This field was probably the fite of the praetorium. Towards its extremity, which is the fouthern angle of the fortrefs, is a mound or tumulus of earth, which might have been ufed both as an exploratory tower and as a means of defence. In ploughing up the grounds and digging for foundations, numerous Roman coins are conftantly found. I purchafed a few ; namely, a Fauftina in filver ; Antoninus Pius, Tetricus, Conftantius, and Magnentius, in brafs. Venta Silurum is named in the 14th Itinerary of Antoninus, in the nth of Richard, and by the monk of Ravenna ; it is not mentioned by Ptolemy, whofe account of the interior of Britain is extremely defective. From the fize of the area, which is not inferior to that of Caerleon, and from the ftrength and height of the walls, it appears to have been a military ftation of great importance. According to the opinion of fome authors, the walls were erected under the lower empire, becaufe the Romans did not ufe turrets or flankers, like thofe of the fouth wall, before that a?ra ; but it may be inferred, with equal probability, that the turrets were added fince the conftruction of the original fortrefs. Ac- cording to Richard of Cirencefter, it was garrifoned by ftipendiaries, and had been the capital of the Silures. I could not however trace, either on the fpot or in the vicinity, the fmalleft veftiges of a Britifh encampment. Probably the ancient refidence of the Silures was demolifhed on the conftruction of the new fortrefs, and the Roman ftation occupied the fite of the Britifh capital. Some authors, without the fmalleft evidence, call it the feat of Arthur's government ; others, no lefs erroneoufly, confider the walls as Saxon, without reflecting that the Saxons never had permanent poffeffion of this part of the country till the time of Edward the Confeffor. A native author likewife ridi- culoufly afferts, that, " an academy for the inftruction of arts and fciences was founded and erected here by one Tathy, a Briton j and fuppofed to be the firft academy or univerfity in the Britifh dominions «f." In * General Roy's Remarks on the Roman Stations f Secret Memoirs of Monmouthshire, p. 51, in Scotland, p. 187. E Z 2 8 CHAPTER 4, In the middle ages, the name of Caerwent never occurs in the hiftories of Bri- tain, and rarely in the Welfh chronicles, and it never feems to have fuftained a fiege*, or withftood the predatory incurfions of the Saxon or Norman invaders. The members of that branch of the illuftrious family of Clare who were feated at Chepftow, are occasionally called lords of Caerwent ; but it does not appear that it was pofTeffed by the later proprietors of Chepftow. In fubfequent times, the manor of Caerwent belonged to the family of Langibby.*; and in 1701, was conveyed to John Jefferys, efq. the anceftor of earl Camden. His fon and heir fold it, in 1749, to the late admiral Matthews, and the prefent proprietor, Colo- nel Wood of Piercefield, purchafed it from his fon William Matthews, efq. of Landaff f . The area of this once Roman fortrefs is laid out in fields and orchards, and con- tains, befides the church, the parfonage, and a tingle farm houfe, a few fcattered cottages, built with the facings of the walls and ancient buildings. The num- ber of fouls amounts to no more than ninety. The church, with its high embattled tower, is a confpicuous object from the adjacent parts ; it is built principally with hewn (tones, and other materials of Roman ftru&ures ; and though at prefent much too extenfive for the inhabitants, was once confiderably larger. Tt confifts of a tower, a nave, and a chancel ; and had once two aifles, for the fide walls flill exhibit traces of arches and windows, now filled up. The doors and windows are gothic. The view from the church yard is agreeable, and diverfified with a pleafing in- termixture of hill and dale ; fields of corn and pafture are cont rafted with the wildnefs of foreft fcenery, and the two oblong hills which rife above the ruined towers of the caftle of Lanvair, form a principal feature in this delightful land- scape. I had a pleafant ride, by the fide of the eaftern wall, and over fields of corn and pafture, to Dinham, a fmall village, a mile and a half to the north of Caerwent. At this place was formerly a caftle, which is mentioned by the author of the 2 Secret * An ail of parliament paficd in the reign of Wil- f From the title deeds, communicated by Colonel liam and Mary, empowering Sir John Williams to fell Wood, the manor of Caerwent, together with feveral other eltatcs. From William Adams Williams, efq. CAERWENT. 29 Secret Memoirs of Monmouthfhire, as one of the fix caftles which compafled the forefl or chace of Wentwood. The village confifts of a few cottages and two farm houfes. Near one of thefe is an old barn, with feveral gothic doors, which appears to have been formerly a chapel. The ruins of the caftle ftand on a gentle rife, near a road leading to Went- wood, and are fo much overgrown with trees, as to be fcarcely difcernible in the midft of the foreft. Nothing but a few dilapidated walls remain, from which neither the fite of the ancient edifice, nor the foundation can be traced. This caftle rauft have been long in a ftate of demolition, as it is neither mentioned by Leland or Camden, or any of his continuators. The ruins are called by the na- tives, the old chapel. As I found nothing either in this place, or in the way, to engage my attention, I haftened back to Caerwent, and purfued my journey through the opening of the walls which once formed the weftern gate, gently defcending to the brook which rifes near Striguil caftle, in the borders of Wentwood, and is here called the Nedern. I croffed it over a ftone bridge, and followed the courfe of the Julia ftrata, veftiges of which 1 feveral times clearly difcerned, particularly at the fixth mile ftone, and in a field clofe to the prefent road, not far from a place which is called the four lanes, from the union of four roads, leading to Lanvair, Caldecot Level, Caerwent, and Penhow. The road runs in a valley bounded by ridges of wooded hills, which con- verge near Penhow, and form a narrow pafs, once commanded by the caftle. Here I found a quiet and comfortable inn, the fign of the Rock and Fountain ; where I occafionally took up my abode, and frcm whence I made feveral excur- fions into the neighbouring parts. [ So ] CHAPTER 5, Caftles of Penhoiv, Pencoed, Lanvair, and Striguil. — Bertholly Houfe. — Vietvs from the Pencamawr, and Kemcys Folly. r J ^HE author of the Secret Memoirs of Monmouthfhire informs us, " there were fix caftles that compafs the foreft or chafe of Wentwood, as Din- ham, Penhow, Pencoed, Lanvaches, Lanvaire, and Caftrogy caftles, the feats of, or belonging to fome of the principal tenants of Wentwood, and within the purlieus and limits thereof*-" It is probable that moll of thefe edifices were built by the family of Clare, who fubdued this part of Monmouthfhire, for the purpofe of curbing the natives, a bold and fpirited race, and of infuring their con- quefts by a chain of fmall fortreffes, or cancellated manfions. Having already defcribed the fcanty remains of Dinham caftle, and finding no traces of any ruins at Lanvaches, I fhall give an account, in this chapter, of the four remaining caftles, which were the fubject of excurfions from Penhow. The caftle of Penhow was the ancient pofTeffion of the illuftrious Seymour family, or, as it is written in Camden and the early genealogifts, St. Maur, from a place of that name in Normandy. This family came over to England about the time of the conqueft, for in 1 240, fir William Seymour, by the aid of Gilbert Marfhal, earl of Pembroke, recovered from the Welfli Undy-f- and Penhow, and his family were fettled at both thofe places '];. In 1270, fir William Seymour re- fided at this caftle, and obtained the privilege of houfe-bote and hey-bote, as appertaining • P. 54.. miles from this place. No traces of the ancient man- f Undy is fituated in Caldecot Level, about five lion exift, but a few dilapidated walls. t Camden. CASTLE OF PEN HOW. 51 appertaining to Penhow from the conqueft. t lis Ton, fir Roger Seymour, knight, who was one of the jury fummoned to Chepftow on that occafion, enjoyed the fame privilege for his houfe at Undy, by the half of a vineyard which is at Magor, and of the fee of Undy *. In the reign of Edward the fecond, the family was divided into two branches ; the eldeft brother, fir John Seymour, continued at Penhow, and the fecond, fir Roger Seymour, by his marriage with Cecilia, daughter and coheirefs of John de Beauchamp, baron of Hache, obtained large eftates in Somerfetlhire, whither he removed, and became anceftor to the dukes of Somerfet and Northumberland. The branch which refided at Penhow, terminating without iflue male, the caftle came into the pofleflion of the family of Bowlays or Bowles-}-, either by purchafe, or marriage with the heirefs j. The family bore the arms of Seymour, and re- tained polfeffion till the extinction of the male line, when a daughter conveyed the caftle and manor to her hufband, fir George Somerfet of Badmonsfield, in the county of Suffolk, knight, third fon of Charles firft earl of Worcester. In 1694 it was purchafed by the family of Lewis ; and in 17 14, the premifes being feized for a debt to the crown, the caftle, lordfhip, and eftate, were fold to Edward Lloyd of Briftol, and now belong to Samuel Lloyd, efq. of Newbury, Berkfhire. The dimenfions of the caftle are fmall, and the prefent remains extremely infig- nificant. Part has been converted into a farm houfe : the remainder confifts of a fquare tower with battlements, and fome low walls of an irregular fliape. The porches and door-ways are gothic. The mafonry is indifferent, and chiefly com- pofed of rubble ftone plaiftered. The fituation is wild and romantic. The caftle ftands on an eminence, rif- ing on one fide abruptly in the midft of a retired vale, thickly clothed with forefts, and interfperfed with occafional patches of arable land. It is fo extremely fequeftered * Hift. of Monmouthfliire. Edmonfon, he died without iflue. In that cafe, the + Coll ins calls it Bowlays. In a pedigree of the Vans, family of Bowlays purchafed the calfle, which is not Edmund Van, who lived in the time, of Henry the improbable, becaufe, Collins fays, " the earl of Here- eighth, married Jane, daughter of fir Thomas Bowles ford wrote a letter to fir John Thynne, defiring to of Penhow. be informed, to whom his grandfather had fold Sey- t According to Collins, Roger Seymour left a mour cattle in Wales.' 1 daughter, who married to a — Bowlays. According to 32 CHAPTER 5. fcqueftered, that from fome points of view, fcarcely a fingle habitation is dif- cerned. The church, which is contiguous to the caftle, is a fmall but ancient building, and was probably conftruded not long after the conqueft ; but has been fince fo much altered and repaired as to become a motley mixture of different fpecies of architecture. It is dedicated to St. John the Baptift*. In the time of En- derbie, the arms of the Seymour family were cut in ftone, and depided in the glafs, but of thefe fcarcely any remains are extant. I have frequently had occafion to obferve in Monmouth fhire, monumental infcriptions of perfons who lived to a very advanced age. This church contains an inftance which ought not to be omitted. " Underneath lyeth the body of " Eliz th Jamplin, daughter of the late Rev d Will" 1 Williams, Redor of this * Parifti, who departed this life July y' 5" 1 1753, Aged in Years." The caftle of Pencoed -f {lands to the fouth of the high road leading from Chepftow to Newport, about two miles fouth weft of Penhow, and five from Caerwent ; it is fituated at the extremity of a hilly and woody diftridt, not far from Caldecot Level, commanding a delightful and exteniive profped of the Briftol channel, and the fertile eminences of Somerfetfhire and Glocefterfhire. This caftle appears to be the mod ancient of thefe agrarian fortreffes, and was probably conftruded foon after the conqueft. The principal remains are, a gate- way with circular arches, flanked by two narrow pentagon turrets, a round em- battled tower, and parts of the ancient wall. The gateway leads into the court . yard of the manfion houfe, which was the area of the caftle. Part of the manfion houfe is formed from the remains of the old caftle, and part conftruded at a more modern period ; it is of confiderable dimenfions, and though much dilapidated, exhibits, in the fize and height of the apartments, traces of former magnificence ; the principal entrance is formed by an elegant gothic porch. It is now con- verted into a farm houfe. In 1270, fir Richard Moore had a, right, by charter, to houfe -bote and.hey- bote to his houfe at Pencoed %. In the fifteenth century it was pofTefTed by a younger. * According to Enderbie and others, the church f Pen y Coed, or the eminence of the woods, is dedicated to St. Maur. j Deed on the chafe of Wentwood. FubiisAed Mcuxh z.ifloo fy Gieictl ?cJ)ayars,Srr C II A P T E It 7. It is a long, narrow, and ftraggling town, built partly in a flat on the banks of the Uik, and partly on a declivity. The streets are. dirty and ill paved ; the houfes in general wear a gloomy appearance. By a charter, dated in the twenty-first year of the reign of king James the first, confirming former grants, it is in- corporated, by the name of the mayor, aldermen, and burgefTes of the borough of Newport, in the county of Monmouth. It is governed by a mayor and twelve aldermen, who are chofen from the burgefTes, by the mayor and the ma- jority of the aldermen : the election of the mayor is confirmed by the lord of the manor. An abstract of this charter, communicated by Mr. William Morgan, town clerk, is inferted in the Appendix. Notwithstanding its trade and situation, the population is very inconsiderable, It contains only 221 houfes and tenements, and 108 7 fouls. Newport, in conjunction with Monmouth and Ufk, fends one reprefentative to parliament. The right of voting is vested in the burgefTes, inhabitants of the town, who are elected by the lord of the manor, the mayor, and aldermen. As Newport is the only port in the fouth-weftern part of Monmouthfhire, the inhabitants are principally fupported by foreign, coasting, and inland trade. Being a creek of Caerdiff, the returns to the cuftom-houfe are made under the head. of Caerdiff, and therefore it is difficult to difcriminate the veffels which frequent each port. The only account which I have been able to obtain from the cuftom-houfe, states, that in 1792 twenty-two fhips were registered in the port of Caerdiff, and in 1798 not more than thirty -f. The coasting trade is very considerable, and is chiefly carried on with Bristol, in floops from twelve to fixty tons each. The exports are principally coal, which in 1 798 was (hipped at 12s. del. per chaldron, and pig iron, together with bar iron, " A river runnes, full nerethe caftle wall : " Which yet fhewes fayre, and is repayrda parte, " Nere church likewife , a mount behold you lhall, " As things decayd, rauft needes be helpt by arte. " Where fea and land, to fight fo plaine appeeres, Churchyard's Wortliines of Wales, p. 50. " That there men fee, a part of five fayre fheires. " As upward hye, aloft to mountain top, "• This market towne, is buylt in healthfull fort ; " So downeward loe, is many a marchant's mop, And many fayle, to Briftowe from that port. "..Of auncient tyme, a citie hath it bin, " And in thofe daies, the caftle hard to win : f Total number of Ships, with thcrr tonnage and men, regiftered at the port of Caerdiff : Ships. Tons. Men. In 1792 - - - - 22. ----- 874. - - - - 76. _ i 79 g . _ . - 30. 1076. -.. - - 97. N E W P O R T. 47 iron, bloomeries, and callings. The imports are (hop goods, furniture, and a few other articles, fent up the canal for the confumption of the interior. The extent of this coafting trade may be collected from an account of the veffels, tonnage, and men, for five fucceflive years, which was communicated from the cuftom-houfe, and is inferted in the Appendix. During this period, the average amount of the tonnage inwards is 9,734, and outwards 12,994. It is a pleafing fatisfaction to add, that the war has had little influence on the coaft- ing trade; the tonnage inwards has been increafed, and outwards little dimi- nifhed. The foreign trade likewife has been even augmented, for the tonnage regiftered in the port of Caerdiff in 1798, exceeded that of 1792 nearly one fourth. The home trade has been confiderably improved by the canal, of Monmouth- mire, which was begun in 1792, and finirtied in 1798. This canal confifts of two branches, which unite in the plain of Malpas. The firfl, or Crumlin branch, commences in the vale of the Ebwy, juft above Crum- lin bridge, and is carried from north to fouth, along the rifing eminences parallel to the Ebwy, by Abercarn and Rifca, to a height called Cefn, where it runs fouth-eafl to Newport. The length of this branch is nearly 8 miles; the per- pendicular fall of water 365 feet ; and it is provided with 32 locks. The highefl, ground is between the Cefn and the junction of the two branches; within which- fpace of a mile and a half there are 20 locks. The fecond, or Pont y Pool branch, begins at Pont Newinydd, near Pont y Pool, and is eleven miles in length. The perpendicular fall of water is 447 feet, and the number of locks 42 ; the average depth 3 £ feet ; the burden of the barges from 25 to 28 Tons *. The principal commodities conveyed to Newport by this Canal, are pit coal,, timber, and different forts of iron, but principally pig iron, from the numerous founderies in the weftern mountains. The articles from Newport, are various kinds of fliop goods, for the interior confumption, furniture, and deals. A more particular account of thefe exports and imports will be found in a lift com- municated * Since the opening of the canal, the coal trade to Biidgevater has been very great, and Newport now rivals the more weftern ports in that market, 4 3 C H APTER 7. municated by Mr. Morgan Parry, agent for the canal, which is inferted in the Appendix. A new canal from Brecknock now forming, which is intended to join theMon- mouthfhire canal near Pont y Pool, runs parallel to the right bank of the Ufk, from Brecknock to Lanfoift, above Abergavenny, and from thence above La- nellen and Lanover, by Mamhilad to Pont y Moel. It is nearly finifhed as far as the Clyda Forge, on the frontiers of Monmouthfhire. But the enormous expence of carrying it through a mountainous diftrict, in which the excavations muft be made to a great depth, renders it uncertain whether it will ever reach the place of its original deftination. Newport was once furrounded by walls, though no veftiges at prefent re- main. Three gates are mentioned by Leland * as exifting in his time, of which the fite of the eaftern and weftern may flill be traced. The pivots belonging to the hinges of the eaft gate, near the bridge, are difcernible in the wails. The weftern, which was ufed as the town prifon, has been lately taken down; it was an ancient ftru&ure in the gothic ftyle, built of red grit ftone, with a fhield charged with a chevron on each facade -f-. Near this gate, in the high ftreet, is an old fpacious building, with an orna- mented front, and a coat of arms, carved in (lone, over the door. This was called the murenger's houfe, an officer of great antiquity in fortified towns, who was ap- pointed to fuperintend the walls, and to collect a toll for the purpofe of keeping them in repair. It appears, however, that as early as the reign of Edward the fecond, the burgeffes were exempted from this murage or wall toll J. The apartments, which are converted into magazines, were fpacious, and not inelegant for the early age in which the houfe was conftructed. The windows are neat, and there are feveral gothic doorways and chimney-pieces. The * " Ther is a great Hone gate by the bridge, at the who in virtue of his marriage with Margaret, daughter " efte ende of the toun, another yn the midle of and heirefs of Hugh de Audeley, was Lord of New- " the toun, as in the high Itrete to paffe thorough, port, who bore or, a chevron gules. Edmonfon's He« " and the 3 at the weft end of the toune, and hard raldry, art. Chevron. " without it is the puroche church." Leland's Itin. J Queen Elizabeth, in the 27th year of her reign, vol. 4. fol. 53. confirmed this and other exemptions granted by her j Thefe appear to be the arms of Ralph Stafford, predeceffors. Deed communicated by Mr. Evans. NEWPOR T. 49 The fliell of the caftle (lands near the bridge, on the right bank of the Ufk; k is a maflive ftrudture, but of fmall dimenfions and fimple form. The figure is nearly a right-angled parallelogram ; it is built of rubble, but coigned with hewn ftones. In the middle of the fide towards the water is a fquare tower, which feems to have been the keep or citadel, flanked with fmall turrets, and containing the re- mains of a fpacious apartment called the ftate room, with a vaulted ftone roof. Underneath is a fally-port leading to the river, with a beautiful gothic arch, once defended by a portcullis, the groove of which is flill vifible. At each extremity of this fide are octagon towers, one of which, though much mutilated, is in- habited. To the left of the middle tower are the remains of the baronial hall, with a large fire-place ; the windows are of the gothic fpecies, and richly deco- rated. Evident veftiges of numerous apartments are feen in the area, andfevera! chimneys appear in the fide walls. On the firft examination of the caftle, I concluded with Grofe* that it was conftru&ed folely for the purpofe of defending the paflage acrofs the river ; becaufe on the fide of the water it is provided with three ftrong towers, but to- wards the town has only a common wall, without flanks or defences. This miftake was corrected by my friend Mr. Evans : the caftle was undoubtedly ftrengthened with a deep moat, which has been recently filled with the earth from the excavation of the canal, and by ftrong walls on the fide of the town. There is likewile a considerable plot of ground, formerly called the Caftle Green, but now converted into wharfs, which appears to have been joined to the fortrefs by means of a drawbridge. The ftyle of the architecture teftifies that the prefent building is not fo old as the conqueft ; for the arches of the doors and windows are pointed ; it muft, therefore, have been conftructed during the Anglo-Norman period, when pointed arches were in common ufe. The hiftory of the caftle corroborates this opinion. Newport f was originally included * Grofe's Antiquities. fhire ; and aflert that the caftle was built by Martin f Some authors have ftrangely confounded New- of Tyrome, lord of Kemtys, to whom William port in Pembrokefhire with Newport in Monmouth- the conqueror alio gave the cultody of the place. But H 5 o CHAPTER 7. included within the lordfhip of Glamorgan, which comprifed the country be- tween the rivers Ufk and Neath. In the reign of William Rufus, Robert Fitz- hamon conquered Glamorgan from Jeftin ap Gwrgan, and fixed his refidence at Caerdiff. Being mortally wounded at the liege of Faleife in Normandy, he died in 1 107 without iffue male j and Maud his eldeft daughter, conveyed Newport with his other poffeflions to her hufband Robert earl of Glocefter and Briftol, natural fon of Henry the firfl. He was equally eminent as a foldier and fcholar ; he was the moft valiant captain of his time, and contributed by his prowefs in arms to place his nephew Henry the fecond on the throne of England. He was the greateft fupporter of literature of the age in which he flourished : he patronized William of Malmefbury, and to him Geoffrey of ROBERT FITZHAMON=SYBlL, dr. of Roger carl \ of Shrewlbury. Robert Fits Henry, d. 1 i47j=Mab e l l . r — ■ William, d. 1 i73r-pHawife, dr. of Robert earl of Leicefter. Robert, d. before Richard de Clare, earl of=AMICIA. his father. Hertford, d. 1206. | Gilbert earl of Glocefter=Elifabeth, dr. of William Mar/hal, and Hereford, d. 1229. I earl of Pembroke. Richard, d, i26z==Maud, dr. of John earl of Lincoln. Gilbert the Red, d. 129 5= Joan of Acres, dr. of Edward I. .1 i i "i Gilbert, d. 1 3 14. Eleanor, m. Hugh Margaret, m. Hugh Ehfabeth, m. John le Defpencer. de Audley. de Burgh. I Ralph earl of Stafford=MAR g ar e t. I Humphrey, duke of Buckingham. For his defendants, fee p. II. But the lord of Kemeys here alluded to was the conqueror of Kemeys in Pembrokefhire ; and the town, Aber Never, which likewife received from the Normans the name of Newport. See Leland, Syllabus -Antiquarurci Diclionum, art. Neveria et Novum Caftellum. Itin. vol. g. Lamparde's Dic- tionary, art. Newport. Hiftory of Monmouthfhire, p. 146. See alfo Cambrian Regifter, for an accurate genealogy of the immediate defendants of Martin of Tyrome. vol. 2. p. 125. NEWPORT. s . t of Monmouth dedicated his hiftory. He was likewife well fkilled in military architecture ; he built the caftle of Biiftol, and conliderably enlarged that of Caerdiff. Aware of the important fitua' - on of Newport, he probably con- ftrufted the caftle to preferve his dominions from the attacks of the Wclfh, who frequently wrefted Caerleon from the Anglo-Normans. His fon William fucceeded to his honours and lands ; and it is certain, from an anecdote recorded by Caradoc, that a caftle at Newport exifted in his time, and was ftrongly garrilbned; juft before his death, in 1173, fome of his troops, who were fta- tioned in the caftle, bafely flew Owen ap Caradoc, when he was going to treat with king Henry, unarmed, and almoft unattended, and under the faith of a fafe conduct. Jorwerth ap Owen his father, in revenge for this cruel and treacherous murder, carried fire and fword to the gates of Hereford and Glo- cefter *. The earl of Glocefler dying in 1 1 73, without male iffue, the next poffeffor of Newport caftle was Richard de Clare, earl of Hertford, by a marriage with his fecond daughter Amicia. On the death of their fon Gilbert, furnamed the Red, in 13 13, his great property was divided among his three filters; Eleanor, the wife of Hugh le Defpenfer the younger, minion of Edward the fecond, Margaret, who married Hugh de Audley, and Elifabeth, who efpoufed John de Burgh, fon to Richard earl of Ulfter. Margaret obtained the caftle and town of Newport, but was compelled to cede them to Hugh le Defpenfer, who procured from the king a charter of privileges for the burgeiles and inhabitants of his town of Newport. On the fall of Defpenfer, Newport was reftored to Hugh de Audley, and conveyed by Margaret, his only daughter and heir, to her hufband Ralph earl of Stafford, who performed great military fervices during the warlike reign of Edward the third, and was in high favour with the king. On the invafion of France, in 1346, he greatly diftinguifhed himfelf j he bravely defended Aiguilon, befieged by John, dauphin of France, and had an eminent command at the celebrated battle of Creffy, in the van of the army, under the black prince. For his * Powell's Hiftoiy of Wales, p. 2CO. H 2 52 CHAPTER 7. his great fervices he was created earl of Hereford, and the king's lieutenant and captain general of the duchy of Aquitain, " with fpecial commiflion to treat with any perfons upon terms of aid to the king, and mutual amftance from him." In this fervice fixty men with lances were impreffed out of his lordfhips of Newport and Netherwent in the marches of Wales. Newport town and caftle, together with the lordmip of Wentloog, continued in the pofleflion of his family until the execution and attainder of his fourth defcendant, Edward, third duke of Buckingham ; when the caftle and lord- fliip were feized by Henry the eighth *. The caftle was afterwards fold or granted to the Herberts of St. Julian's, and formed part of the property which lord Her- bert of Cherbury obtained by his marriage with Mary, only daughter and heirefs of fir William Herbert. It came in the fame manner as the eftate of St. Julian's to the late earl of Powis, and was fold to Charles Van, efq. of Lanwern. Mr. Van granted, by a long leafe, the tower next to the bridge to the Rev. Mr. Burgh, whofe father had purchafed the manor of Newport, and exchanged the remainder of the caftle with William Kemeys, efq. of Mayndee, the prefent proprietor. The above mentioned tower, and the adjacent parts between it and the bridge, together with the manor of Newport, defcended to the daughter of Mr. Burgh, and firft wife of Thomas Johnes, efq. member of parliament for Cardiganshire, from whom they have been recently purchafed by the marquis of Wor- cefter. The church of St. Woolos, which is the only place for the eftablifhed wor- ihip in Newport, ftands on the outfkirts of the town, on a gentle rife, com- manding an extenfive view, which is much admired by travellers. The ori- ginal ftructure is the prefent nave, and was erected either in the Anglo Saxon or Norman sera ; but has fince undergone many alterations and additions. The church confifts of a fquare tower or belfry ; a fmall chapel dedicated to St. Mary, which is now ufed as a burial place ; a nave, with two allies, and a chancel. The prefent entrance is on the fouth, through a gothic porch; but * See Dugdale's Baronage, art. Fitzhamon, Gloceftcr, Clare, Audley, Stafford. Leland's Itinerary, vol. <;» fol. 6. Gough's Camden. IWSIDE VIEW OF THE CHURCH OF ti'i WOLLOS AT NEWPORT. J^iblishedMarchx iSoo byCadeJl Sc Dories . Strand . NEWPORT. 53 but the weftern doorway, leading from St. Mary's chapel into the church, was originally the grand entrance. It is formed by a femicircular arch, richly ornamented with hatched mouldings, and repofing on low columns, with rude capitals of foliage : it has a Saxon character. In the infide of the church the doors and windows are gbthic, of different ages ; but ' he nave is fepa- rated on each fide from the aifles, by five circular arches *, refting on four maflive columns, and two pentagon half columns at each extremity, which, from their ftru&ure and appearance, are evidently Saxon or Norman. A few remains of painted glafs are ftill vifible in fome of the windows. In the church are three ancient monuments much dilapidated. One in the nave, of alabafler, confifls of two headlefs figures of a man in armour and a woman. The two others are in the chancel ; one of thefe, on the floor, is a recumbent effigies of a woman in ftone, probably as old as the fourteenth century, without an infcription ; the other is a magnificent fepulchre in carved ftone, with a rich arched canopy, fupported by fluted ionic pillars, under which are the mutilated remains of the effigies of a man in armour, repofing on a hel- met, with a ruff. From the coftume and ftyle of the ornaments it appears to have been conftructed in the fixteenth century ; but as there is no infcription or tradition extant, the perfon here buried is unknown. Among the modern fepulchral tablets are thofe of the three lafl vicars : There is likewife a cenotaph erected to the memory of Mr. Pratt, one of the principal promoters of the great iron works at Blaenafon -jk * One gothic arch is at the north-eaftern extremity of the colonnade next the chancel, which is evi- dently pollerior to the original colonnade. Francis Pettinghall, who died 1726, Samuel Butcher, - - - 17535 and Thomas Mills Hoare, - 1 783. The •f This Cenotaph Great Whitley, in Worcefterfhire, who died at Blaenafon, is Sacred to the Memory of Benjamin Pratt, Efq. of and lies interred at Chadfley in this County, May 24th, 1794* aged 52 Years ; in 54 CHAPTER 7. The tower was built by Henry the third on the following occafion. Gilbert tie- Clare, earl of Glocefter, lord of Glamorgan, and pofTeffor of Newport caftle, one of ihe raoft powerful barons in the kingdom, leagued with Simon Montfort, earl of Leicefter, againft Henry the third ; and by means of his great connec- tions and intereft, brought a powerful acceffion of ftrength to the opponents of the king. He was highly inftrumental in gaining the battle of Lewes, which terminated in the immediate capture of Henry, in the fubfequent furrender of prince Edward, and in the eftablifhment of the baronial confederacy. But the earl of Glocefter, difiatisiied with the ambitious proceedings of Lei- cefter, feceded from his party ; and having retired for fafety to his eftates on the borders of Wales, contrived the efcape of prince Edward, and prepared to join him with a confiderable army. Meanwhile Leicefter marched from Hereford to Monmouth ; but being oppofed by the militia, he was compelled to retreat to Ufk, a place belonging to the. earl of Glocefter, which he took j being driven from thence by Glocefter, he proceeded to Newport, and occupying the caftle, fent for veffels to convey him and his army to Briftol. Glocefter receiving in- formation of this defign, placed three gallies at the mouth of the Ufk, which funk or difperfed the boats, and marching with prince Edward to the bridge, fucceeded in driving back Leicefter's troops, who in retreating fet fire to the bridge, and afterwards retired to Hereford. The victory gained by prince Edward and Glocefter over the rebels at EveftV.m, the death of Leicefter, with the delivery of the king from captivity, diflblved the confederacy of the barons, and rcftored the royal authority. § Henry, in Worcefterftiire. and its Vicinity, and was a warm Promoter of the Monmout h (hi re Canal. , Soundnefs of Judgment, A Native of this Country, though removed from it in early Life, he cherifhed its Remembrance Rectitude of Principle, and Urbanity of Manners, with lively Regard, snd his laft Years were fuccefsfully employed the Man of Bufinefs and the Gentleman. eminently confpired to form in him in contributing to its Profperity. He was principally concerned which manifefted in his laft Momenta He died with that pious Fortitude, in eftablilhing that he was at peace the Iron Works at Blaenafon with his God. N E W P O R T. 55 Henry, not unmindful of the loyal conduct of the inhabitants, and their vi- gorous oppofition to the earl of Leicefter, built the tower of the church, as a teflimony of his gratitude. His ftatue is placed in a niche in the weftern front ; but the head was ftruck off by the foldiers of Cromwell. St. Woolos, to whom the church is dedicated, is called in Welfh Gwnlliw, in latin Gunleus ; his legend is thus related in the lives of the faints : " St. " Gunleus C. This faint, who was formerly honoured with great devotions in " Wales, was eldeft fon to a king of the Dimetians in South Wales. After " the death of his father, he divided the kingdom with fix brothers, who ne- " verthelefs refpected and obeyed him as if he had been their fovereign. He " married Gladufa daughter of Braghan, prince of that country, which is called " from him Brecknockfhire, and had by her St. Kenna, and the great St. Cadoc, " who afterwards founded the famous monaftery of Llancarvan, near Cowbridge " in Glamorganshire. Gunleus lived fo as to have always in view the heavenly " kingdom, for which we are created by God. He retired wholly from the " world long before his death, and paffed his time in a folitary little dwelling, " near a church which he had built. His cloathing was lackcloth, his food " barley bread, upon which he ufually ftrewed allies, and his drink was water. " Prayer and contemplation were his conftant occupation, to which he rofe at " midnight, and he fubfifted by the labour of his hands ; thus he lived many " years. Some days before his death he fent for St. Dubritius and his fon " St. Cadoc, and by their afiiftance, and the holy rites of the church, prepared " himfelf for his paflage to eternity. He departed to our Lord toward the end " of the fifth century, and was glorified by miracles *." Near the church was a barrow called Twyn Gwnlliw, or the tomb of St. W oolos; but which Harris in his account of the antiquities of Newport fuppofes to have been an arx fpeculatoria, or watch tower, which the Romans always conftructed near their camps. This opinion is in fome meafure corroborated by the veftiges of ancient encampments in the vicinity of the church yard, and by the names of Cyningaer and Caerau, by which fome neighbouring fpots are diftinguifhed. The * Lives of the Fathers, principal Martyrs, and ether principal Saints, vol. 3, p. 313. 56 CHAPTER 7 ,' The traveller who is fond of profpects will afcend the tower of the church j he will admire on one fide the courfe of the Ufk, bending in the true line of beauty, and wa filing the caftle and town of Newport, and on the other the rich levels of Caldecot and Wentloog, from Magor to the Rumney, the Briftol channel, and the diflant hills of Gloceflerfhire and Somerfet- fliire. During my frequent vifits to Newport, I received great marks of attention and friendship from the Rev. Mr. Evans, vicar of St. Woolos, and patTed much . of my time at Cacrau, the place of his refidence, which is delightfully fituated in the midft of the fields, about a mile from the town, and not far from the high road to BafTaleg. The view from the houfe is uncommonly pleating ; it looks down upon the town of Newport and the winding Ufk, fkirted by gentle and fertile eminences, and backed by a chain of hills ; in the foreground the weftern fide of the tower of St. Woolos church forms an agreeable object. I fcarcely made a fingle excurfion in the vicinity of Newport, in which I was not accom- panied by Mr. Evans, and derived the greatefl advantage from his knowledge of the Welfli tongue, local information, and hiftorical acquaintance with the ancient ftate of the country. I have, in another place, acknowledged the be- nefit which I received from his kind afiiflance and indefatigable exertions ; but in defcribing the environs of Newport, I could not avoid mentioning the fe- queftered and hofpitablc retreat of my ingenious and much eftecmed friend. Leland mentions a houfe of religion in Newport" by the quay beneth the bridge," and Tanner fuppofes that it was probably of friars preachers, becaufe fuch a one was granted at the diffolution to fir Edward Carn *. The remains of this friary ftill exift, near the banks of the Ufk, below the bridge. They confifl of feveral detached buildings containing comfortable apartments, and a fpacious hall, with gothic windows, neatly finifhed in free (tone; the body of the church is dila- pidated; but the northern tranfept is a fmall and elegant fpecimen of gothic architecture. It is now occupied by a cyder mill., and the prefs is placed in a fmall recefs which was once a chapel, feparated from the tranfept by a bold ..and lofty arch. The gardens are enclofed within the original walls. There * Probably a miftake for fir Edward Morgan of Lantarnam, as the fite flill belongs to his defcendants, N E W P O R T. 57 There was another religious houfe for white friars, near the church of St. VVoolos, on the left of the lower road leading to Tredegar ; it ftood on a gentle rife over- looking the level of Wentloog, and commanding a beautiful view of the Uik, haflening to fail into the Severn. No veftiges at prefent exift, and a private houfe occupies the original fite, which in memorial of its ancient ftate, is ftill called the Friars. The environs of Newport are delightful, and compenfate for its gloomy ap- pearance. I was particularly ftruck with the beauty of the fcenery in a meadow to the north-weft of the town. As I took my evening walks on the banks of the river towards the bridge, I was never fatiated with admiring the rapid and filvery Ulk, the ponderous remains of the ancient cattle, the bold projection of the bridge, and the elegant tower of St. Woolos church crowning the fummit which rifes above the town. This meadow is furrounded by a circular range of gentle hills, richly clothed with an intermixture of wood and pafture ; and at a diftance is feen the ftrait ridge of mountains, which ftretch from Rifca to- wards Pont y Pool, and prefent a beautiful appearance when purpled with the rays of the fetting fun. FA S7 I [ 53 ] CHAPTER 8. Excurjions from Newport to the South-wefcm Boundaries of MonmonthJJ.nre. — UppW Road to Caerdiff. — Encampment of the Gaer. — Baffaleg. — Craeg y Saefon. — New Park Encampment. — Lanvihangel Vedw. — Kevenmably. — St. Melons. — Rumney. — Lower Road from Caerdiff to N civ port. — Caflleton. — Tredegar. — Morgan Family. — Machen Place and Church. — Bedivas-. T MADE feveral excurfions to the fouth-weftern boundaries of Monmouth- **• mire, in the courfe of which I examined three old encampments contiguous to the road, and vifited the feats of the Morgan family, juftly efteemed one of the mod ancient and illuftrious of the county. Quitting Caerau, in company with Mr. Evans, we followed the upper road to Caerdiff, at the fecond mile-ftone entered the old park of Tredegar, and gently afcended to the Gaer, an ancient encampment, on the brow of the eminence above the river Ebvvy. The remains are perfect, and as they are wholly free from under- wood, may be traced without difficulty. The annexed plan will exhibit the form, which though not exactly fquare or oblong, feems to bear a Roman cha- racter, as it refembles the mape of the Gaer near Brecknock, and fome other encampments exhibited in Stukely's Itinerary, which are allowed to be Roman. Returning into the high road, we croffed the Ebwy, which is here a mountain torrent, over a (tone bridge, to Baffaleg, a fmall village, and the parochial church of Tredegar. According to Tanner, Baffaleg was formerly a Benedictine priory of black monks, a, cell of the abbey of Glaftonbury, to which the church was given by Robert de Haye and Gundreda his wife, between iioi and 1120. This cell, which was dedicated to St. Bafil, feems to have gone to decay before the general diffolution of religious houfes : " The monks," he obferves, " were probably § " foon BtACHE N PLACE. />///wW Marrll Litt'ofyfiuMI tJDOYtCS Sltmut. B A^S SALE G. 59 " foon recalled to Glaftonbury, for abbot Michael, who attained that dignity " in 1235, let to farm the church of Bafielech, which feenis a convincing proof " that there were no longer any of their own convent refident here." No remains of the ancient priory exifl at BatTaleg ; there is, however, a ruined building at the diftance of about a mile, in the midfb of a deep fequeftered foreft, not fir from the llumney, on the confines of Machen parifli, which is by fome fuppofed to be part of the original cell. The name of this foreft, ftill called Coed y Monachty, or the Wood of the Monaftery, feems to confirm this opinion. The prefent church is a neat gothic building, and either belonged to the cell, or was named from it, as it is like wife dedicated to St. Bafil, from which the village takes its name. A few years ago it was repaired, and fo much altered, that the in&de bears no traces of the original ftyle. It appears from the fepulchral inferiptions, that the collateral branches of the Morgan family, feated at Gwern y Cleppa and llogefton caflle, were buried in this church. Jane, eldefl fifter and heirefs of the late John Morgan, efq. of Tre- degar, the wife of fir Charles Gold Morgan, is interred in a cemetery lately erected by her hufband., who has transferred the burial place of the Tredegar family from Machen to this church. A fmall gothic edifice, now a fchool-room, ftands a few paces from the fouth fide of the church, and was probably an ancient chapel. The point of view from which the church and chapel are feen to the greateft advantage, is on the oppofite fide of the bridge in Tredegar park, where the bridge, •the. chapel, and the embattled tower of the church, grouped in a pleating manner, and reflected in the torrent beneath, have an agreeable and fingular effect. About a mile from Baffaleg, and a quarter of a mile from the high road, is Craeg y SaefYon, a circular encampment on the brow of a hill, thickly overgrown with trees and coppice, and commanding, through the openings of the wood, a beautiful perfpective of the Briflol channel. It is fuppofed, from the name of Craeg y Saeffon, or the Saxon fortrefs, that this place was a Saxon encampment ; but thofe who maintain this opinion, are wholly unacquainted with the cuftoms and language of the Welfh. For my intelligent companion informed me, that by I 2 long 6o CHAPTER S. long habit, derived from the inveteracy of their anceftors againffc the Saxons, the Welfh range all foreigners indifcriminately under the appellation of Saxons ; a cuftom which lias likewife mifled many writers to affirm that the Saxon dominion Was extended farther in thefe parts than is warranted by hiftory. Between the encampment and the road, we pafled through a pleafant meadow,, called Maes Arthur, or the field of Arthur ; which, according to uncertain tradition, derived its appellation from that renowned hero of Britifh fable. About a mile farther, clofe to the high road on the left, is a fimilar encamp- ment, on the level fummit of an eminence called Pen y Park Newydd, or the head of the New Park, a circular entrenchment, with a fingle fofs, and rampart of earth. Several large (tones are fcattered in and near the fofs, which appear to have formed part of the walls : the entrance is fouth-weft by fouth*. This fpot commands a fuperb view : on the eaft the high and woody ridge crowned by the Pencamawr, ftretches along the midland parts of Monmouth- ihire, and terminates in the bare tops of the Treleg hills ; to the north-eaft is a lower chain of fertile eminences, backed by the Graeg and Garway, near the fron- tiers of Herefordfhire. The view towards the north is diftinguifhed by $he great Skyrrid, towering like the point of a volcano ; the long range of the Mynydd Maen, with Twyn Barlwm, rifing like a vail excrefcence on its fouthern extremity. Nearly north is Mynydd Machen, under which expands the beautiful vale of Machen, fprinkled with white cottages ; to the north-weft the cafteilated man- fion and rich groves of Ruperra, connected with the chain of hills in Glamorgan- fhire. The view to the fouth-weft is clofed by the low and narrow promontory of Pen Arth, and the mouth of the Taaf crowded with fhipping. Southwards extend the levels of Caldffcot and Wentloog, watered by the Ulk, and bounded by the Briftol Channel, with the flat and ftcep Holms, appearing like points in a vaft expanfe of water. The beauty of this profpecl: was heightened by the ferenity of the weather and the * For tl.e ihape and dimenfions of this and the two other encampments, fee the plate which accompanies this chapter. SAINT MELON S. 61 the clearnefs of the atmofphere; and in defcending towards the plain, amid this diverfified fcer.erv, we could not fupprefs our admiration and delight. At the half-way houfe between Newport and Caerdiff, we turned to the right, and pairing the church of Lanvihangel Vedw, a handfome gothic edifice, reached the frontiers. The counties of Monmouth and Glamorgan are fcpai'SKed by the llumney, over which is a (tone bridge, leading to Kevenmably. On the eaftern bank of the river is an old cottage, called Begam, pleafantly fituated, faid to be the fiteof the ancient manfion inhabited by the Kemeys family, before their refi- dence was transferred to Kevenmably. Near it is a mill, fuppofed to have been the firft ever erected in this county. Returning by Lanvihangel Vedw to the half-way houfe, we proceeded to St. Melons, where the upper and lower roads from Newport to Caerdiff unite. The church is a lingular but picturefque edifice, built with rag ftone and plaiftered. It confifts of a nave, a chancel, a tower on the fouth fide of the church, a chapel, a cemetery, and a porch to the weft of the tower, which forms the principal entrance : the infidc is narrow and long ; the length from the weftern extremity to the ter- mination of the chancel being 105 feet, and the breadth 21. Three low gothic arches, refting on rude columns of different forms, feparate the chapel from the nave and part of the chancel; this chapel was probably the original church. The tower, which is a rude maffive building, is placed at its weftern end, and communicates with it by a gothic doorway. The vaulted ceiling is not unwor- thy of notice, particularly at the eaftern extremity of the chapel, where it is ornamented with curious compartments of carved wood, exhibiting clufters of foliage and grotefque heads. Oppofite the chapel, and on the other fide of the-* chancel, is the cemetery of the Morgans feated at Lanrumney. According to the Hiftory of the Saints, St. Melo or Melanius, to whom the church is dedicated, was a native of CaerdifF, and planted chriftianity in thefe parts, about the middle of the third century ; he was bifhop of Rouen, and built, in 270, the cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin Mary*. In the Britifli language the church is called Laneirwg, or the church of Eirwg, which llgnifies golden, an appellation which he derived from his fwarthy complexion. Three • Ducarel's Alien Priories. Cz CHAPTER ST. Three miles from St. -Melons, clofe to the high road from Newport to Cacr- diff, is the church of Rumney, which is dedicated to St. Augufline, and is a very large edifice, being not lefs than 1S0 feet from the weftern extremity of the tower to the end of the chancel. The tower is decorated with battlements and gothic pinnacles ; the doorways are alio gothic, excepting the weftern entrance, which is formed by a femicircular arch repoling on cluftered columns. The windows ex- hibit remains of glafs, painted with fleurs-de-lis, and other armorial bearings. This church was granted by William earl of Glocefter to the abbey of Briftol, and is now in the patronage of the dean and chapter. It ftands at the diftancc of a quarter of a mile from the bridge over the Rumney, which is here a moun- tain torrent, and only navigable, by means of the tide, about three miles from its mouth. Various etymologies have been given of the word Rumney: fome derive it from the Romans, who had ftations in the vicinity, others from the Saxon word Ru- mon-ea, fignifymg a water, or watery place; a name well adapted to its fituatioa on the borders of the level of Wcntloog, which is aifo called Rumney marlh. ■In Welm the river Rumney was anciently called the Elarch, or the Swan river. Hence it is fuppofed to derive its appellation from fwans, which frequented thefe marmes in great numbers before they were drained. -Others may conjecture that the name was derived from a colony of that nation, whom the Greeks figured under the name of Kvxvoi or fwans, as fettled on the banks of the Po, Pactolus, and Meander, and finging dirges at their own funerals : a fable which gave rife to much beautiful imagery and charming fictions of the Greek poets concerning Moujfcwv opwGff, uoi$ or svroi TrtTiXxuv. Calhmachus. " Thefe birds of the mufes, the rnofl harmonious of winged creatures." The fongs of thefe fwans are faid to have reached London, and with the fame facility they might -have arrived on. the banks of .the Rumney*. From * See Mr. Bryant's learned and interelting difquifition in his Analyfis of Ancient Mythology, vol. I. p. 267—284. CASTLETON. 63 From the bridge of the Rumney* we returned to St. Melons, and purfued our journey along the lower or new turnpike road, from Newport to Caerdiff. This road runs along the fide of the wooded eminences that fkirt the edge of Went- loog level, and overlooks the whole of that fertile tract, refcued by human induftry from the devastation of the fea. The level exhibits a fmgular and uniform appearance of a plain, divided into fields of pafture, interfered with drains, and dotted with a few white cottages, among which the towers of St. Bride's, Marflifield, and Peterfton churches rife confpicuous ; the waters of the Briftol channel, beyond, feem like a continuation of this level furface. We paffed through Caftleton, a fmall village, which derives its name from an ancient caftle at the bottom of the hill, on which the encampment of Pen y park Newydd is fituatcd. It was formerly a place of Strength, and was probably built or occupied by the Normans, for the purpofe of retaining their conqueft of Wentloog. The only remains are a barrow in the garden of Mr. Philips, which is fuppofed to have been the Site of the citadel;, and a ftonebam, once a chapel.. From Caftleton we continued, our route under the walls of Gwern y Cleppa park, where Mr. Evans pointed out to me the ruins of the old mantion, in the midft of thickets, once the refidence of Ivor Hael, or Ivor the Generous, fecond fbn of Lewellin ap Ivor, lord of Tredegar. He was patron and uncle to David ?P dingle, which is watered; by the little ftream. The entrance is on the fouth-eaft, and fronts the lower road from St. Mclon'3 to Rumney. The fecond encampment overhangs the fteep banks of the Rumney, a quarter of a mile above the bridge, and about three hundred yards from the turnpike. Its fhape, as may be feen in the plan, is almoft that of a D. Its greatell length is (ixty-five yards, andbreadth fifty. The depth, of the entrenchments, and the height of the banks of earth, particularly towards the river, evidently prove that it was meant to guard the paffage, and to prevent the incurfions of an enemy from the oppohte banks. Connected with the weft- em fide is a triangular outwork, the rampart of which is much lower than that incloiing the princi- pal encampment. See the plans on the fame plate with that of Twyn Barlwm. * Near Rumney are t»vo fmall encampment"; which I was not appriftd of, and therefore did not viiit in my tour to the frontiers. Having fince my return received an account of their pofition, Mr. Evans, at my requelt, was fo kind as to defcribe them, and Mr. Morris furveyed them. Beyond the junction of the upper and lower road from Newport to Caerdiff, and near Pen y Pil, is a final! encampment of an irregular figure,, betv/ixt an oval and a polygon. It is fituated on an abrupt emi- nence near a fmall ftream, the fource of which is under the north-weft fide of the entrenchment. Its length is fcarcely fifty yards, and its greatell breadth forty. The entrenchments are deep : the height of the embankment on the north and ea!t tides is about eleven yards ; the declivity on the fouth and weft, from the nature of the ground, is much greater, the entrenchment being thrown up on the edge of a deep 6 4 C 11 A P T t R 8. ap Gwillim*", the celebrated bard of Glamorganshire, whofe works are publifhcd by Mr. Owen Jones. Roger Morgan, the laft male of his defcendants, dying in •i 6} 2, the eftate came to the family of Tredegar. Continuing our progrefs along the high road, we proceeded to Tredegar houfe, the large and magnificent manfion of the Morgan family. The grounds arc ex- tenfive and diverfificd, and contain feveral fine features, both of a rude and pleafing call, which are capable of great improvement. They are richly covered with groves of oaks and Spanifh chelhuts, remarkable for .their age, fize, and beauty j and traverfed by the torrent Ebwy, the red colour of whofe rocky banks is ftrikingly contrafted with the furrounding verdure. But the combination of thefe fcenes into one grand whole, is prevented by the interpofition of the turnpike road from Newport to Caerdiff, which divides the old and new park, and paffes within a few hundred yards of the houfe. Tredegar houfe has been long the refidence of the Morgan family. Part of the original edifice, which is mentioned by Leland -f, as " a very fair place of ftone," ftill remains, and is converted into offices. The principal part of the manfion is more modern, and was conftructed in the reign of Charles the fecond ; it is of red brick, and being without projections or ornaments, has a maffive appearance, and is more remarkable for fize than elegance. The apartments are large, well proportioned, and convenient ; feveral are left in their original ftate. One of the molt remarkable is the oak room, fo called becaufe it is wainfeotted and floored with oak ; the wainfcot is richly carved in the ftyle of the lafh century, and the floor is formed from the planks of a fingle tree; whofe enormous height and fize .may be collected from the dimenfions of the apartment, which is forty-two feet in length, and twenty-feven in breadth. Among a large collection of pictures, there is a fine portrait of ferjeant May- nard, in his robes ; a head of judge Morgan, with an infeription on the back.: " Judge Morgan, recorder of Brecknockfhire, and grandfather of Blanch, who " married William Morgan of Tredegar, efq. and by whom .the Brecknockfhire c: eftate defcended into the Tredegar family." . _ Several * A tranfatioi of one of his odes is given in the Appendix, f Itin. vol. 4. fol. 51, MORGAN FAMILY. 65 Several family portraits are not unworthy of notice, as they afltft in tracing the line of defcent, and correcting the erroneous pedigrees which have been given of this illuftrious family. Thomas Morgan of Machen, efq. painted on wood, with an infeription ; xt. 52, 1620; a half length: lie is dreffed in a black robe, with a fword and belt ; the beard is pointed, hair ftrait, and a ruff round the neck, according to the fafhion of James the firft. Sir William Morgan; astatis fuce 90, 1650. This portrait reprefents the figure of a venerable old man, holding in one hand a book, in the other a flick. Thomas Morgan, efq. jet. 74, 1664. He was the fon of fir William Morgan, and pofieffed Tredegar and Machen. The heads of fir William Morgan, knight of the bath, of Thomas Morgan, his brother, of the late John Morgan, efq. by whofe death the male line of the Morgan family became extinct; and of his fifter Jane, the late wife of fir Charles Gould Morgan, who, in virtue of his marriage, became pofleflbr of the manfion and eftate. The family of Morgan, being fo confpicuous in the hiflory of Wales, the Welfh bards have exerted their utmoft ingenuity to trace its origin and lineage. Fanciful genealogifts have prefumed to derive it from the third fon of Noah, and modeftly affect to correct the miftake of the Englifh, in carrying the pedigree to Cam, his fecond fon. Some flop with Brutus, the conqueror of Britain; others with Beli, one of the Britifh kings, and fome are even content with Caradoc or Caraelacus. It is however generally agreed, that Cadivor the Great, lord of Dyfed, who died in 1084, was their great anceflor. He married Eleanor, daugh- ter of the lord of Kilfant, at which place, called in Monmouthfhire, the cradle of the Morgan?, his fon Bledri, was fettled. His grandfon, Ivor ap Bledri, was lord of St. Clare* in Caermarthenfhire. Lewellyn ap Ivor, the fifth defcendant from Cadivor the Great, efpoufed Angharad, daughter and heirefs of fir Morgan Meredith, knight, of Tredegar, from whom the manfion and eftate were derived. I le was the father of Morgan, who inherited Tredegar, of Ivor the Generous, founder of the line of Gwern y Cleppa, and of Philip, anceflor of the Lewis's of St. Pierre. On * Among the papers in the poflemon of William Jones, efq. of Clytha, are feveral documents which prove that the family poffeffed the eftate of St. Clare long after their eftablifliment at Tredegar. 66 CHAPTER 8. On the death of fir John Morgan, at the latter end of the fifteenth century, this branch was divided into the lines of Tredegar and Machen. William Morgan, the lineal defcendant of the Tredegar line, who was flierifF in the 6th year of Elizabeth, dying without legitimate ifTue, feems to have bequeathed the eftate to his natural fon John, whofe fon Miles inherited Tredegar, and was fheriff in the 17th of Elizabeth. Miles efpoufed Catherine, daughter of Rowland Morgan, of Machen, and by his will, figned in 1578, devifed the eftate to his brother-in-law Thomas, whofe fon and fucceflbr, fir William Morgan, knight, refided at Tredegar in the reign of Charles the firft, and during the protectorate of Oliver Cromwell. After the death of fir William, Thomas his fon removed from Machen, and made the additions to Tredegar houfe. His defcendant fir William Morgan, knight of the Bath, died in 1731, and left four children, William, Edward, Rachel, and Elizabeth. Edward and Rachel died in tneir infancy ; Elizabeth married William Jones, efq. and William deceafing without ifTue, Thomas his uncle entered upon the landed eftate, in virtue of fir William Morgan's will, which paffing over the daughters, without once naming them, was fo unfkilfully worded, as to occafion a law-fuit between Elizabeth and Thomas. It' continued twenty years, and was finally decided by the houfe of Iprds, in favour of Charles the fon of Thomas, who dying without ifTue, the eftate de- volved on his brother John, the laft male of this line. Leaving no children, he bequeathed Tredegar and the greater part of his large property to his fifter Jane, wife of fir Charles Gould, baronet, now fir Charles Morgan, and after her deceafe •to her hufband, with an entail upon their fon Charles Morgan, efq. of Ruperra*. From Tredegar we crofted a wooden bridge over the Ebwy, flowing in the midft of a broad and ftony channel, which though often an infignificant ftream, is * I have colleaed this account of the Morgan Lewellin, who efpoufes Trahaern Meurig, in the family, and the annexed pedigree, from documents in following manner, • the poueffion of William Jones, efq. of Clytha, from Lewellin ap Ivor, ancient pedigrees in the Herald's Office, and from a Morgan, pedigree drawn up by the late John Morgan, efq. In f the fecond volume of the Cambrian Regifter is a Trahaern Meurig—MAR caret. pedigree of the Morgans, which differs from thefe Lewellin ap Trahaern. accounts : it breaks the male line, and continues the | defcent through Margaret, daughter of Morgan ap Ivan Lewellin - (To face />. 66. « CO ►J s < 55 o <* O 2 W s t- o w w eS O S w - 5 O o z w ►j — ! W II— 1 II- 5s |S o in >-> - £-5 « o So 2 e o ^ ■5 -c * I o S Q < o U-2 PCI 2 y t. o 1-2 ►3" 31 a. .\4 2"S > 6 -_ P O O > o n T3 Q 2 =3 bS is o •J 5 « ft: . Q a 3 -a W s o ti C S lh II > ON V- 60 € a 3 " cr" r$ •s §• T3 9 4 I 4SJ- -O tin rtt "t I §L; 1 S Si s -= > a ° u .2 5> tj T3 j= rt H -IT Ml u " . C -a a. £ <« c u >> S .2 -5 | § - O >> » ^ ^ G >- C " ^« » i 5 C 5 O • ^ c O ™" «? -a ■S 5 s « K > w> T3 **- -ri t3 • « _, £ o f ) c a. " o 'C c S C * u c u O <0 U Mr c = « j= v 4- ■■ — * I fVmtinuatun ft. s ■a ca rt u5 ■5 u. ■ a o o w u § rt • £■ « v. -3 rt G ^> U o Oh a, E O w 0 G -G O SI -C o > » eS c . H * J5 Talgarth, or ° S § p byj ^ s _c u« o -a -3 c; i o •£ r Vaughai o e bo o « o jeth, dr J e - 0 rt _C c rElifal u • o "2 «J ft II .2 c 3 5 £ s to " C* . o £ ^ fcO 1- o *° S . ■5 2 01 SI o ft K ■a „ rt ' > ca -a "S ° OJ &£ _o ^ o W X u— II— c» s£ P ff« *o o -Q _ s - O so & .5 — 5 "a " * g the K'in| u -a e £ o ^ 2 rt u t: -a <-d <*- • o a. c E ."H 55 ca o 91 — a. "11 O o u •5-5 ip ^: o W II- jg E U c ST £c E " O 3 c £ '£ . c 2 J . 3 v2 -j (Jj S -a' rt »\ .— v- rt if w ■5 d s - ra ■ >~ E? O o d I rtO f-d P O "1 = rt • "E -6 y « i- ri- cr u Not: -il N 6 u ' V X i vo -o t^* rt Ef. L L_ E o JS E 3 . . 5 ?o ^4 " C u E ? MACHEN PLACE. 67 is occafionally fwollen by the rains, and like an Alpine torrent, fpreads its devafta- tions to a confiderable dillance. Returning to Newport, I vifited, in a fubfequent excurfion, Machen Place, another ancient feat of the Morgan family. After pairing through Ballaleg, I left the upper road to CaerdifT, and traverfing an undulating country, well wooded, and diverfified with corn and pafture, entered the vale of Machen, The fcenery of this fequeftered fpot is a pleafing intermixture of wildnefs and cultivation ; it is of an oval lhape, and the hills, with which it is fkirted, are partly covered with herbage, and partly overhung with thick forefts. The Rumney, here alfothe boundary of the two counties, fweeps along the vale, and is loft in deep and impervious woods. The white cottages fcattered in the plain and on the gentle acclivities, the church, with its white body and brown tower, and Machen hill, whofe fteep fide is almoft covered with limekilns appearing like fmall caves in the rock, form all together a fingular and cheerful affemblage of objects. Machen Place is fituated at the commencement of the vale, under the hang- ing groves of Rupcrra. This once refpectable feat, now a farm houfe haftening to decay, ftill exhibits a few traces of pad: grandeur : a circular apartment, called the hunting room, is decorated with a rich ftuccoed cieling, reprefenting the figure of Diana in the middle, with feats, churches, and hunting parties, in twelve furrounding compartments. A pair of andirons weighing three hundred pounds, which were not unufually employed in roafting an ox whole, with a large oak table on which it was ferved, convey a recollection of former times and former hofpitality. The branch of the family fettled at Machen, were the defcendants of lir John Morgan, knight of the fepulchre, by his third fon Thomas. Of his grandfon Rowland, Leland fays, " There is another of the Morgans, dwelling by Rumny " at Maghen, having a fair houfe. He had bene a man of fair landes, if his " father had not divided it partely to other of his funnes*." The laft perfon who refided here was Thomas, who after the death of his father fir William, made the * Leland's Itin. vol. 4. fol. 53. K a 68 CHAPTERS. the additions to Tredegar houfe, from which period Machen Place was gradually deferted. Having examined the manfion, I walked to the church, which Hands on the other fide of the road, at the diftance of about half a mile : it is a fmall edifice of a fimple form, with gothic windows and doors. To the north of the chan- cel is a chapel, the burial place of the Morgan family ; in which repofe the allies of thofe who refided at Machen, Tredegar, and Ruperra. There are no tombs and inferiptions before the beginning of this century. Moft of thefe memorials are fimple graveftones, on each of which the names of feyeral perfons are inferibed. Three marble tablets are placed againft the walls, with emblazoned coats of arms. The firft was erected to the memory of John Morgan, efq. of Ruperra, the fon of Thomas Morgan of Machen and Tredegar, a London merchant, who after acquiring a large fortune, retired to Ruperra, which he had purchafed, and died in 17 15. He was a confiderable benefactor to the family, and left the man- fion and eftate of Ruperra to his nephew John, whom the fecond tablet com- memorates in an infeription too long to be inferted. He was lord lieutenant of the counties of Monmouth and Brecon, member of parliament for Mon- mouthlhire, and a great fupporter of the whig intereft; he died in 17 19, aged 50. The third tablet is facred to the memory of his fon fir William Morgan, who was born 1701, and in 1725 was inaugurated knight of the Bath, on the revival of the order. He efpoufed Lady Rachel Cavendifh, eldeft daughter of William, fecond duke of Devonfhire, and died in 1 73 1, aged 30. His epitaph contains a warm eulogium of his character. " Though he came when young to the PoflerTion « of " Power, Honour, an high Alliance, and a great Eftate - 3 " Yet they neither made him forget himfelf, " Nor his Father's Friends. " He was a Stranger to Infolence, Oppreflion, or Ingratitude, " Humane, courteous, and benevolent. « In MACHEN CHURCH. 69 " In his Converfation and at his Table, " Sprightly, free, and engaging, " A Lover of his Neighbours, companionate, and charitable j " Amiable for thefe, and other good Qualities, " And much lamented at his untimely Death." His wife furvived him near fifty years, and died in 1780, in the eighty-firfl year of her age. The eminence which rifes above the church, is called from the vale, Machert hill, and is a remarkable feature on the weftern fide of the county. It contains fmall quantities of zinc and lead, but is rich in the beft coal, which is in much repute for the furnaces and brafs manufactories ; it abounds alio with lime- ftone, which forms a confiderable branch of traffic in thefe parts, for the purpofe of manure. A little beyond Machen church the vale narrows, and the road runs between two ridges of hills overhanging the Rumney, here a fmall but rapid torrent ; foon afterwards it widens and opens into a more extenfive country, fprinkled with neat farm houfes, in the midft of inclofures of corn and pafture. This ciiftricTh is ex- tremely fertile and well cultivated, and yields more corn, in proportion to its ex- tent, than any other part of Monmouthfhire. A pleafant walk leads from the turnpike acrofs the fields to the church of Bed- was, fituated at the foot of the hills, about half a mile from the high road. The church, which is dedicated to St. Barrog, a faint of whom I can find no account, contains nothing worthy of notice ; it is held in commendam with the fee of Lan- daff, and forms no inconfiderable part of its fcanty revenues. The view from the church yard is pleafing and diverfified. On one fide ftretch the wild hills of Monmouthfhire, on the other, a fertile and extenfive vale, with the majeftic bat- tlements of Caerphilly caflle, appearing like the ruins of a vaft city, and tower- ing above the fwelling and wooded eminences with which they are furrounded. From Bedwas I croffed the Rumney into Glamorganfhire, and pafTing through Caerphilly, made a circuit by Ruperra houfe, and re-entered Monmouthfhire at 70 CHAPTER 8, at Machen bridge, where the Rumney, pent up in a narrow channel, breaks over its rocky bed, and ruihes down the wooded declivities. Another branch of the Morgan family was feated at Rogetton cattle, about half a mile from Baffaleg, and near three from Newport. It Hands in, a pleafing fituation, not far from the Ebwy, whole red precipitous banks are tufted with trees. This ancient cattle, called in Welfh Tre Gwillim, or William's Houfe, be- longed to the anceftor of the Stradling or Etterling family, one of the twelve knights who affifted Robert Fitzhamonin the conqueft of Glamorganfhire. But I am wholly ignorant by what means it came into theporTemon of the Morgans, or to whom it defcended on the extinction of that line. The only remains of the ancient ftru&ure are yifible in the walls and outhoufes of the prefent manfion, which is a modern edifice, and built on the old foundations. Thefe fragments are very matfive, and meafure, without their facings, near feven feet in thicknefsj they occupy a mount, which was the lite of the citadel, and appears to have been very extenfive ; the field adjoining to the garden is ftill called the cattle- clofe. The premifes, as well as fome adjoining works on the banks of the Ebwy, belong to the royal mine company, and are tenanted by Mr. Butler of Caerleon; they were erected in 1772 for copper works, but are now ufed for the ma- nufacture of iron rods, bars, bolts for (hipping, and tin plates *. * See account of Mr. Butler's Manufactories, near Caerleon, of which this is a branch, in Chap. ii„ [ 7* ] CHAPTER 9. Level of IVentloog. — Sea Walls. — Greenfield Cajile. — Churches of St. Bride's, Peter- Jion, and Marflifield. — Excurfwn to Tzvyn Barlwm. V I E level of Wentloog is that diftricl: which ftretches fro'm eaft to weft, between the rivers Ufk and Rumney, and from north to fouth, between the Briftol Channel and the gentle ridge of Tredegar Park, Gwern y Cleppa, Caftle- ton, St. Melon's, and Rumney. This whole tradt, like the level of Caldecot, is perfectly flat, and refcued from the de variations of the fea by a line of embank- ments or fea walls, which are not built of ftone, as thofe in Caldecot Level near Goldcliff, but wholly conftrufted with earth. The proprietors of thefe lands are fubjecl: to the fame laws as thofe of Romney Marfh in Kent, and are under the controul of a court of fewers. The account of the conftitution of this court, communicated by my friend Mr. Evans, who is himfelf one of the commiffioners, is inferted in the Appendix. The labour and expence of this great undertaking may be collected from the length of the fea walls : Perches. Feet. Inches. In Rumney Parifli - 909 16 o — Peterfton 769 9 6 — St. Brides 824 18 5 — BafTaleg 725 17 o — St. Woolos ------- 1676 5 o 4906 5 11 In company with Mr. Evans-, I vifited feveral places in this extenfive level. A mile and a half to the fouth-weft of Newport, in the level of Mendalgyf, are 4 the 7 2 C H APT E R 9. the ruins of Caftell Glas, or Green Caftle, which ftand on the left bank of the Ebvvy, not far from its confluence with the Ufk ; it was formerly a caftle belong- ing to the duke of Lancaster, and efteemed a place of ftrength and fecurity in the civil wars. It is neither mentioned by Leland or Camden, but is defcribed by- Churchyard in the reign of Elizabeth *. The remains of this once ftrong and lplendid caftle, which ftand near the farm houfe, confift of a building now uled as a ftable for cattle, a fquare tower with a ipiral ftair-cafe, a ftone edifice containing feveral apartments, in one of which is a large fire-place, with a fine gothic entrance, and in the infide feveral gothic doors. It is faced with hewn limeftone from an adjoining quarry. Some de- tached ruins and foundations, which are continually dug up, prove its former extent. At a fmall diftance is a circular mound, furrounded with a fofs, and overgrown with thickets ; this was probably the lite of the ancient keep or cita- del ; it overhangs the old channel of the Ebvvy. Within the memory of the prefent tenant, was a ftone wall about five feet high parallel to the banks, where vefiels, which could afcend the river, ufed to unload. The eftate once formed a portion of the duchy of Lancafter -f, but now belongs to the family of Tredegar, and the farm is called Greenfield. We next vifited the three churches of the Level, St. Bride's, Peterftone and Marfhfield. The ground, like marfhy plains which have been drained, is cut into parallel ditches, in fome of which the water ftagnates, in others it runs in per- petual ftreams, called rheens, which fall into the fea through flood-gates or gouts. The roads leading through thefe flat marfhes are ftraight, narrow, and pitched, which exhauft the patience of the traveller, like that mentioned in Horace : " I\ Units gravis appia tardis." Thefe * " A goodly feate, a tower, a princely pyle, " The name thereof, the nature fliewes a right, " Built as a watch, orfaftie for the foyle, « Greenefield it is, full gay and goodly fure, " By river ftands, from Neawport not three myle. " A fine fweet foyle, moft pleafant unto fight, " This houfe was made, when many a bloodie broyle, " That for delight, and wholefome ayre fo pure, " In Wales, God wot, deflroy'd that publicke ftate; " It may be praifde, a plot fought out fo well, " Here men with fword and ihield did braules debate: " As though a king fliould fay, here will I dwell ; " Here Jaftie ltood, for many things in deede, " The paltures greene, the woods and water cleere, * That fought fafc-guard, and did fome l'ucker neede. " Sayth any prince may buyld a pallace heere." Worthines of Wales, p, 50. f Archives of the duchy of Lancafter. WENTLOOG LEVEL. Thefe marflies, being only inhabited by farmers and labourers, contain very few houfes and cottages. The natives are in general Welfh, and many of them fcarcely underfland Englifh ; confequently the churches are ferved in the Wei fly language. In former times the population mult have been confiderable, becauie the churches are large, and capable of containing great congregations, though now reduced to forty or fifty perfons, The church of St. Bride's, in Welfh Lanfanfraed, or Llan faint fryd, is about three miles and a half from Newport. The tower is a handfome ftructure of hewn flone, in the gothic ftyle of architecture, and more modern than the other parts, which are of coarfer materials. A high and narrow gothic arch at the weft end of the church, and two low pointed arches on cluttered pillars, the fhafts of which are not more than four feet five inches in height, feparating a final), chapel from the chancel, feem to indicate that this part of the building was conftructed foon after the introduction of gothic architecture. On the fouth wall of the church, within a porch which forms the principal entrance, is an in- fcription carved in free ftone : TE . GREAT • FL\D 20 IANVARIE IN EE MORNING 1606. The loweit part of this infeription, which marks the height to which the waters arrived, is about five feet from the ground : a fecond inundation in 1 70S covered the Level from Magor to Caerdiff *, and another happened a few years ago, but neither was fo high as that of 1606. The church of Peterfton, fituated at the diftance of fix miles to the fouth-weit of St. Bride's, and within a quarter of a mile from the fea walls, is a Angularly large and elegant edifice for a diflrict fo remote and ill inhabited ; it is wholly conftructed * The dreadful devastations of this Inundation, drowning infinite numbers of cattell of all kinds, as ~were defcribed in a pamphlet called " Lamentable fheepe, oxen, kine, and horfes, with others, together News from Monmouthfhire in Wales. Containing with the loffe of many men, women, and children, the wonderfull, and moft fearfull accidents of the and fubverfion of xxvi parifhes in January hft." 1608, overflowing of the waters in the faid counttye, 410. 74 CHAPTER 9, conftru&ed with hewn ftone, and the tower exhibits a good fpecimen of gothic architecture. The inlide confifts of a nave and fide aifles, decorated with two ranges of lofty and elegant gothic arches, repofing on cluftered pillars. The church is greatly dilapidated, and the roof though now flat, was originally vaulted with ftone ; fome grotefque heads, which formed the bafe of the flying columns that fupported the roof, ftill remain on the fide walls above the pillars. The arches are bulged, and the columns have confiderably declined from the perpen- dicular direction. The chancel is fallen down, but its fite may be traced on the outfide of the prefent eaft window. This church is dedicated to St. Peter, and was built in the twelfth century by Mabile, daughter and heirefs of Robert Fitzhamon, the great Norman baron, who conquered Glamorganshire, and wife of the puiflant chief Robert earl of Glocefter, natural fon of Henry the firft. She gave it to the abbey of Briftol, with an addition of fixty acres of land in the parilh of Peterfton *. The dean and chapter of Briftol are proprietors and patrons. From the top of the tower, the view, though not picturefque, is ftriking and Angular j it commands the whole of the Level, fkirted towards the Briftol Channel by the extenfive line of fea walls, and on the fide of the land bounded by an am- phitheatre of wooded eminences, backed by ranges of hills towering in fucceffion one above the other. Marflifield church is three miles and a half from Peterfton, near the extremity of the Level towards Caftleton; it is more ancient than Peterfton, is built chiefly of rubble ftone, plaiftered and white wafhed, and confifts of a fquare tower or belfry, a nave, and a chancel. The roof is of wood, vaulted ; in fome parts are remains of painted ornaments, with which the beams were once covered. The windows and doorways are all gothic, excepting the entrance to the fouth, which is a femicircular arch, ornamented with a foliage of twifted branches, and repo- fing on two (lender columns; this entrance is concealed by a handfome gothic . porch. The tythes of the parifh and the advowfon of the church were granted by * Barrett's Hiftory of Briftol, p. 258, to to to «5 is ti 70 a o Tub full/ SO 'ISOO.bly CadeH S-Davies Slran/f TWYN BARLWM. 75 by William earl of Glocefler, and lord of Wentloog, to the abbey of Briftol. The dean and chapter of Briftol are alfo patrons and proprietors. A narrow pitched road from Marfhfield church leads to Caftleton, from which place we returned by Tredegar to Caerau. The peculiar appearance of Twyn Barlwm, and its fituation at the extremity of' the long ridge of the Mynydd Maen, with its fteep declivities and abrupt fepara- tion from Machen Hill, excited my curiofity to afcend to its fummit. Three times I was prevented by rainy weather, but at length was fortunate enough, in a fine day and a clear atmofphere, to attain the object of my expedition. We departed from Caerau, and quitting the upper CaerdifF road at the'hand- poft, continued three miles along the turnpike leading to Rifca, pafling not far from the courfe of the Ebwy, through a beautifully wooded country of hill and dale, diversified with inclofures of corn and pafture. We then left the Rifca road, afcended a fteep pitch to the canal, croffed it over a bridge, and in a fhort time came to a cottage about two miles from the village of Henllys. Here quitting our chaife, we rode up a gentle acclivity, clothed with copfes and underwood, along a narrow and ftony path, and in three quarters of an hour reached the bottom of the fwelling hill called Twyn Barlwm. We fkirted its bafe over fome heathy and boggy ground, and alighting from our horfes, af- fcended to the top. The eminence of Twyn Barlwm is a fwelling height, about fix miles in cir- cumference at its bafe, rifing on the fouth-weftern extremity of Mynydd Maen ; and is covered with coarfe rufTet herbage, mofs and heath, without a fingle tree, from which it derives its name*. The fummit is a flat furface of an oval fliape, and on the higheft part is crowned with a circular tumulus, or artificial mound' of earth and ftones, eighteen yards in height, and furrounded with a deep fofs. The entrance is north-eaft, from which a trench, about three feet in depth, is car- ried round the brow of the eminence, and returns to the oppofite fide of the tumulus. The fhape and dimenfions are accurately delineated by Mr. Morrice in the annexed plan. Many * Twyn Barlwm, in Weiih y Twyn a'i var yn Llwm, or the hill with the fummit barren or naked. From Twyn a hill, Bar a fummit, and Llwm barren or naked, L 2, 7 6 CHAPTER 9. Many different opinions have been formed concerning the origin and ufe of this work. Some call it a beacon, fome a ftrong hold, and others a place of fepulture. I am inclined to believe that it was originally one of thofe places of fepulture called Cams *, which in the early ages of the world were in com- mon ufe among all nations, and particularly among the Britons, who were accuftomed to bury their moft famous leaders on the higheft eminences, either as a confpicuous memorial, or to ftrikc terror into their enemies. In fubfequent times it may have been employed as a beacon, or even as a tempo- rary faftnefs, in cafe of afudden invafion; though from its fize and condition, it could not be ufed as a permanent place of defence. It might contain the afhes of fome valiant chief among the Silures, who fell in defending his country againft the Romans. The name of Cwm Cam, or the valley of the Cam, which is given to a neighbouring dingle, in the fides of the Mynydd Maen, may have been derived from this tumulus. But whatever was its primary deftination, I am informed by Mr. Owen, that according to a tradition in the neighbourhood, and particularly among the prefent race of bards, it was once a celebrated place for holding the Eifteddfod, or bardic meetings. Twyn Barlwm being fituated on the higheft point of the chain which bounds the rich valleys watered by the Uik, commands one of the moft lingular and glorious profpects which I had yet enjoyjd in Monmouthfhire; and which cannot be reduced to a fpecific and adequate defcription. To the fouth, the levels of Caldecot and Wentloog, with the broad Severn, lofing itfelf in an expanfe of fca, feemed to ftretch at the bottom of its Hoping declivity ; the town of New- port, and the tower of Chriftchurch rifing in the midft of hills and forefts. To the eaft appear the cultivated parts of Monmouthfhire, fwelling into nu- merous undulations fertilifed by the meandering Ufk. Thefe rich profpects are contrafted on the north and weft, with a waving furface of mountains that ftretch beyond the confines of Glamorganfhire and Brecknockfhire. This dreary expanfe is nothing but a fucceffion of Tuffet eminences, almoft without the ap- pearance of a fingle habitation, excepting the diftrict of Crofs Penmaen, which is profufely ftudded with white houfes on the fummit, and along the ft oping de- clivities. * See fome fepfibl* remarks on thefe fepulchral monuments in the CambrLm Regifter, vol. z. p. 350. TWYN BAKLWM. 77 clivities. The beautiful valleys of the Ebwy and Sorwy appear in the hollows between the mountains, deeply fhaded with trees, and watered by torrents which faintly glimmer through the intervening foliage. Quitting reluctantly this delightful profpect, we walked down the heathy fide of the mountain, and then paffed along a narrow path, leading through thickets, under the weftern extremity of Twyn Barlwm, which is a rocky precipice over- hanging the church of llifca. The beautiful glen through which the Ebwy flows, feemed to open as we defcended, and caught a view of the torrent from itsjunction with the Sorwy, flowing under the new canal, which appears like a floating ribband winding along the fides of the projecting declivities. Entering into the road a little beyond the church of Rifca, we continued along a wide and fertile valley, much expofed to the inundations of the Ebwy 3 and bounded by chains of undulating hills. [ 78 ] CHAPTER 10. Road from Newport to Caerleon. — Malpas Church. — Caerleon. — Etymology. — Roman Antiquities. — Walls. — Circumference. — Amphitheatre. — Suburbs, or Ultra Pontem, — Caflle. — Ancient Encampments in the Vicinity \ npWO roads lead from Newport to Caerleon j the one crofles the Ulk over -** the new bridge, and continues along the turnpike two miles and a half, then pafTes the weft end of Chriftchurch, defcends to the bridge, and over the Ufk to Caerleon ; this is the fhorteft, and moft frequented : the other winds round Mal- pas Pill, continues parallel to the right bank of the Ulfc, and enters the north- weftern gate of Caerleon. This was the only way during the conftruttion of Newport bridge. The diftance from Newport to Caerleon by this road, is four miles and a half. A principal object, of curiofity in this route, is the church of Malpas, on the right fide of the road, a mile and a half from Newport. There was a religious houfe for two cluniac monks at Malpas, which was a cell to the priory of Montacute, in Somerfetfhire ; and is fuppofed by Tanner to be the Terra de Cairlion, granted to that monaftery by Winebald de Baeluna, in the reign of Henry the firft *. Edmund earl of Stafford, who potfefTed Newport caftle, was the patron. It was granted as parcel of Montacute, in 1546, to fir William Herbert of St. Julian's. The chapel of this cell, now the parifh church, is worthy of being vifited by the antiquary, as one of the moft ancient religious edifices in thefe parts. It is a fmall building of unhewn Hone, of an oblong fliape like a barn, with a belfry having two apertures for bells. The arched door which is on the weftern ftde, * Tanner's Notitia Monaftica, art. Monmouthfhire, MALPAS CHURCH. 79 fide, the ftone frames of the three principal windows, as well as the arch which feparates the chancel from the church, are all rounded, and decorated with friezes of hatched moulding, denticles, and receding columns, peculiar to the Saxon and Norman architecture. The arch of the fouthern window, which feems to have been a doorway, is more elegantly ornamented, and embofied with rofes, not unlike the Etrufcan ftyle. All the columns, which are moftly of a rude form, have diflimilar capitals and fhafts, a ftriking feature in Saxon ftru&ures. Some modern gothie windows have been introduced into the ftone frames of the origi- nal apertures. The church is dedicated to St. Mary, and is a perpetual curacy in the diocefe of LandafT. After the difTolution, it remained in the patronage of the family of St. Julian's, to whum the file of the priory lands was granted, but is now in the prefentation of fir Charles Morgan, the family of Tredegar having purchafed the advowfon, with the great and fmall tythes. The extended value of the curacy is only five pounds ; but it has been greatly benefited by queen Anne's bounty ; lands having been purchafed and annexed to it, which are now let for thirty-live pounds, and are highly improvable. Malpas is fuppofed, by thofe who are fond of tracing etymologies from the Latin tongue, to derive its appellation from Malo pajfu, or a bad pafs ; becaufe the Roman road, which is fuppofed to have pafTed this way, was rough and hilly ; but a more natural derivation is furnifhed by my friend Mr. Evans, from Malp aes, or a plain within the hills, which exactly correfponds with the fituation, it being a plain between hills, and the only plain in the vicinity. A little beyond Malpas church, I quitted the turnpike road which leads by Lantarnam to Pont y Pool, and followed the route to Caerleon. About midway I mounted a fleep and rugged afcent, and looked down on the rich vale, ftretching in the form of a bow, with Newport caflle and Caerleon church at each extremity, and the venerable manfion of St. Julian's, feated on the feathered banks of the Uik, occupying the middle of the arc. On one fide Caerleon appears in a flat, and on the other the narrow and long town of Newport riles along the fide of an eminence to the church of St. Woolos, embowered with trees. I rode under an 3 ancient So CHAPTER 10. ancient encampment near the old lodge of Lantarnam park, and parted through the opening which once formed the entrance of Ifca Silurum, the refidence of the fecond Auguftan legion, and the chief ftation of the Romans in the country of the Silures, now occupied by the lmall town of Caerleon, which is feated on the right bank of the Ufk. There is no occafion to employ many words in proof of thefe facts; the remains of the walls and amphitheatre, the numerous fculptures, altars, pavements, inferiptions, coins, and other antiquities difcovered within the town and the vicinity, evidently prove it the fite of a great Roman city. Immenfe quantities of Roman bricks, ftamped with the impreflion in relievo of | LEG 11 AVG j which {till continue to be found, feveral of which I myfelf obferved, teftify that it was the ftation of the fecond Auguftan legion, during a long courfe of years. It is denominated in Antonine's Itinerary, Ifca Legionis fecundce Auguftre*; by the monk of Ravenna, Ifca Augufta ; by others, Ifca Silurum ; and by Ri- chard, Ifca Colonia. The modern name of Caerleon is generally fuppofed to be derived from Caer, the Britifh word for a fortified city, and Leon, a corruption of Legionum, meaning the city of the legions. But this derivation is denied by Mr. Owen-f, author of the Welfh Dictionary, and one of the beft Britifh linguifts : he affirms its Britifh name to be Caer Llion, or the city of the waters } this etymology is not inapplicable to its fituation on the banks of a tide river which rifes very high, and near the Avon Lwyd, a torrent inundating the country. Giraldus Cambrenfis gives a brilliant account of its ruins in the twelfth cen- tury : " Many remains of its former magnificence are ft ill vifible ; fplendid palaces which once emulated with their gilded roofs | the grandeur of Rome, for it was originally built by the Roman princes, and adorned with ftately edifices ; a gigan- tic * In Horfley's copy it was written Ifca Legua Au- j I fufpect that thefe gilded roofs were taken from gufta, plainly a corruption for Ilea Legionis Secund.-e Geoft'ry of Monmouth's defcription of Caerleon in the Auguftas, time of king Arthur : " The magnificence of the -J- As I r.m totally unacquainted with the Welfh royal palaces, with lofty gilded roofs that adorned it, tongue, I have thought proper to infert Mr. Owen's made it even rival the grandeur of Rome." B. ix. ingenious obfervations in the Appendix, c. 12. M r « CAERLEON. -tic tower, numerous baths, ruins of temples, and a theatre, the walls of which are partly (landing. Here we (liil fee, both within and without the walls, fub- terraneous buildings, aqueducts, and vaulted caverns ; and what appeared to me mod remarkable, (loves fo excellently contrived, as to diffufe their heat through fecret and imperceptible pores*." The prefent ruins, however, are extremely inconfiderable, and confifl only of walls, and the excavation of the amphitheatre. The form and fize of the ancient town may be difcovered by the line of the walls, which though in many places dilapidated, and in others covered with buildings, have been traced by Mr. Evans : with his kind a Alliance I examined their lite, and am enabled to prefent to the public an accurate plan of the town, taken by Mr. Morrice. The fhape of the fortrefs appears to be oblong, inclining to a fquare ; three of the fides are (Irait, and the fourth, like the northern wall of Caerwent, curvi- linear : the fides are of different dimenfions, and inclofe a circumference of about 1800 yards; the corners are gently rounded, like mod of the Roman (lations in Britain, and the four angles nearly correfpond with the cardinal points of the compa(s. We commenced our furvey at the fouthern angle, near the extremity of the Round Table field, where the walls exhibit the mod (Iriking remains of their an- cient (Iructure ; their prefent elevation is in no place more than fourteen feet, which is confiderably lefs than their original height : their greatefl thickneis between eleven and twelve. The in when the Herberts poffefled St. Julian's, years, much lefs for 1 300. Should any fuch rings or CAERLEON. 87 cinders, and are confidcred as pieces of ore, imperfectly fmeked by the Romans. Thefe fragments are found in many places which were occupied by the Romans ; before the introduction of the Lancafhire ore, they were conveyed to the iron works, and by means of the improved ftate of modern machinery, yielded a con- {iderable portion of metal. In fome parts of Monmouthfhire, not far removed from the iron works, the profit drawn from the Roman cinders has almoft de- frayed the purchafe of the land. Without the Roman fortrefs, we traced feveral outworks of confiderablc ftrength. Near the eaftern angle in Mill ftreet, are remains of a line of ancient wall, with the foundation of a gateway, running nearly parallel to the Roman fortifications ; but not fufficient to afcertain their purport. It is more difficult to trace the ruins of the celebrated caftle, which refilled fo many affaults, while the town, notwithstanding its Roman fortifications, fur- rendered to each invader. The caftle works extended in a line between the fouth fide of the wall and the Ufk, beyond a round tower near the Hanbury Arms, and terminated at the remains of two round towers or baftions, which were built upon the rocks on the verge of the river. According to Domefday book, there was a caftle in Caerleon at the time of the conqueft. Parts of the ancient works ftill remain, particularly the tower near the Hanbury Arms, which exhibits in its circularly arched doorway, and embrafures, the early flyle of fortification : it is now pierced with modern windows, and much altered from its original ftate. The thicknefs of the walls, the bold fweep of the arches, and the compofition of the cement, according to the Vitruvian method, have led fome perfons to fuppofe it a Roman Structure, which was afterwards included in the works of the caftle. There are no apparent remains of the tower called by Giraldus gigantic; but the mound on which it was constructed is ftill entire. It is an artificial emi- nence of considerable height, 300 yards in circumference at the bafe, and 90 at the fummit ; it ftands between the banks of the Ufk, and the fouthern fide of the wall, and is generally fuppofed to be the fite of the Norman keep or citadel, and pofterior to the other works. In the time of Leland the ruins were very 6 considerable ; 83 C Ii A P T E R 10. confiderable ; and Churchyard, who wrote in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, defcribed it, as " A caftle very old, " That may not be forgot, " It ftands upon a forced hill, " Not far from flowing flood*." In the middle of this century, the walls of the tower were not lefs than forty feet in height ; but they were loofened by the fevere effects of the froft in 1739, and fell down in enormous fragments -f . Within the memory of the oldeft in- habitants were remains of dilapidated buildings at the bottom, and a flight of ftone fteps. During my laft excurfion, fome maflive foundations were difcovered towards the fummit. The greater part had been removed by the lord of the manor, and fold to Mr. Williams, a currier, who had built a houfe with the ma- terials. The remains which I obferved were not lefs than twenty feet in depth, ten in breadth, and thirty in length ; the whole forming a folic! and compact mafc, of large ftones bedded in mortar, which the workmen had great difficulty in feparating. I noticed among the fragments, much flate,, many glazed pantiles^ and numerous pieces of burnt and charred wood, which feem to imply, that part of the building had been deftroyed by fire. From the top of this eminence, the wild and beautiful environs of Caerleon are feen to the greatefl advantage. The principal objects are the town, gently riling at the extremity of an oval vale ; the bridge, fupported by lofty andflender piles; the rapid Ulk, flowing through fertile meadows; the Coping hills, richly clothed with wood; and Chriflchurch, towering like a cathedral, on the brow of an overhanging eminence. Defcending from the mount, and tracing the fofs, I obferved, towards its fouth-weftern fide, heaps of Roman bricks and tiles, which had been recently dug up in making excavations. Among thefe were fome fragments of large bncks, * The Worthines of Wales, p. 24. •f The late Mr. Thomas Norman told Mr. Evans, and could fee from thence the hills of Somerfet, over that his father ufed when a boy, at the latter end of the Severn. His father's name was Walter Norman, the laft century, to mount the Aimmit of the walls, and he died extremely old, about the year 1762, TROUT VIEW OF THE ROl'^D TOWER :»EAR THE IIASBrBY ARMS BACK VIEW OF ROVXD TOWER. SOUTH AWGLE' OF THE ROMAJT WAT.1L.S AT CAERLEOJf. Vubluhed March j 1800, by Cadefl. $:Dayies, Strand C A E R L E O S 9 f licks, two feet fquare, and two inches in thicknefs. They formed part of a iloman farcophagus, which meafured fix feet and a half in length. It wa$ found on the fide of the mount, feveral feet above the ground ; and Mr. Bian- f ring, who politely accompanied me, and lupplied me with thefe particulars-, pointed out the place where it had been diicovered, which was apparent from the red colour communicated by the bricks to the furface. The fituation of this farcophagus feems to indicate, that the lower part of the mount exifted in the time of the Romans., and was a continuation of a natural ridge, which ftretches nearly the fame height, not far from the banks of the Ufk, and that the upper part was raifed, fince the depofition of the farcophagus, to its prefent elevation. In the ftreet leading from the bridge, and near the pafiage to the caftle, are the ruins of a portal, which feems to have once formed the entrance of the caftle works. Parts of a round tower ftill remain, with the groove for a portcullis, and a public houfe called the Gate-houfe marks its fituation *. Clofe to the fouthern extremity of the bridge, in the diftrict fomefimes called •the village of Caerleon, and fometimes diftinguifhed by the Roman appellation of Ultra Pontem, are the ruins of an ancient fort, intended for the purpofe of guarding the palTage over the river. Grofe has given an engraving as it exifted ; in 1778, and from the roundnefs of the arches and the mode of conftniction, concludes that it was a Roman edifice ; but the dilapidated ftate of the work renders it difficult to afcertain its exact form or asra. As it was the invariable cuftofh of the Romans to conftruct fortified camps near their principal ftations, for airing the troops, exploratory purpofes, fecuring convoys, and guarding cattle, we fhould expect to find traces of their an- cient encampments in the neighbourhood of Caerleon. The remains of four -encampments, two on the north and two on the fouth fide of the Ufk, are ftill vifible in the vicinity j but neither of them feems to bear a pofitive Roman ckaracter. N The * At the time of my Iaft excuriion thefe remains were taking down, 5>o CHAPTER i«. The moll remarkable of thefe is the encampment of the Lodge, in the old park of Lantarnam, near a mile to the north-weft of Caerleon, anciently called Bellingstocke, which is fuppofed by Harris to have been the sefliva or fummer camp of the fecond legion : it is of an oval, or rather an elliptical lhape, large dimenfions, and furrounded with double ramparts, excepting to the fouth- weft, where there a quadruple line of ramparts and ditches *. The entrench- ments are in fome places not lefs than thirty feet in depth. The entrance is to the weft, and defended by a tumulus, twelve yards in height, which is placed on the inner rampart. It bears more the appearance of a Britith, than of a Roman encampment ; and if I may be allowed a conjecture, was the fite of the Britifh town on the arrival of the Romans. This conjecture is ftrengthened by the authority of an ancient chronicle -j~ of the kings of the ifle of Britain, which mentions the exiftence of a Britifh town built by Beli, on the banks of the Wyfc, or Ulk. Probably * For the plan of this and the three other camps, fee the annexed Engraving. f In the Myvyrian Archaeology of Wales, as Mr. Owen informs me, are three copies of this chronicle, called Brut Breninod ynys Prydain, collated and printed on the fame page. He was fo obliging as to favour me with a translation of a paffage of each. From the Second Copy. fi After obtaining that victory, Bran remained em- peror in Rome, fubduing the people through unheard of cruelty; and whofoever would know his a&s, and his end, the histories of the men of Rome declare them ; therefore have I refrained from them; for too much length and tedioufnefs mould I give to this work, if I were to write them; and I mould be departing from my own plan and work by fo doing. And then Beli icturned to the ifle of Britain; and through peace and tranquillity he completed the days of his life, and governed the country. And he repaired the fortref- fes that had decayed ; and built other new ones ; and in thole times arnongft others of his acts, he built a fortrefs on the river Wyfc, near the fea of Havren, wiuthwas called through a length of time Caer Wyfc, knd that was the archbifhop-houfc of Dyved ; and after the coming of the men of Rome into the ifland, that name was done away, and it was called Caer Llion, for there they were wont to dwell in the winter. * Firlt Copy. " He built a fortrefs on the banks of the river Wyfc, and there was the archbifliop-houfe of Dy ved (Dimctia). And alter the coining of the men of Rome into this ifland, it came to be called Caerllion, fos there they were wont to remain during the winter." Third Copy. " And then he built a fortrefs and city on the river v Wyfc, which was called through a long time Caer Wyfc ; and there afterwards was the third archbifhop- rick of the ille of Britain ; and after the coming of the men of Rome to this ifland, it was called Caer Llion or Wyfc." See alio a Similar paffage in Geoffrey of Monmouth, Bookiii. Chap. 10. An ancient ma- nufcript, being a catalogue of the moll renowned kings of Britain, founders of cities, contains the fol- lowing paffage, communicated likewife by Mr. Owen S " Beli the fon of Dyvnwal Moel Mud, made a city on " the banks of the l iver Wyfg, and he called it Caer " Llion on Wyfg ; and that was anciently the grin* M cipal town in the ifland." C A E R L E O N. 9 t Probably this Britiili fortrcfs afterwards became a fummer camp of the ilomans, was again a ftrong poll of the Britons on their departure, and fub- fequently occupied by the different nations who befieged Caerleon. The depth of the ditches, and height of the vallum, feem to indicate a Saxon ftation, as their camps are diftinguifhed by thofe peculiarities. Perhaps Harold, on his conqueft of lower Gwent, here eftablimed himfelf when he inverted Caerleon, as it was a place of great importance, either for the defence or attack of the town. The Normans likcwife did not omit to feize this poft, called by Churchyard " Caer/eon's hope *," in the numerous aflaults which Caerleon fuftaincd in feudal times. The fecond encampment, on the north fide of the Ufk, is at Penros, an emi- nence above the Avon Lwyd, to the north-eaft of Caerleon; it is environed only by a fingle rampart, and the form is nearly fquare, w ith five baftions. From the remains found at Penros, it may have been alfo the fite of a Roman camp, which was altered and ftrengthened with baftions during the civil wars of the lad century-. The third encampment, to the fouth of the Ufk, is near the high road leading from Caerwent to Newport, above Mayndee, the feat of William Kemeys, efq. who has erected a fummer-houfe in the midft of the area, which commands a fmgular and beautiful profpecl:. It is a fmall circular entrenchment, and could only be calculated for exploratory purpofes, or guarding cattle. The fourth camp is in the wood of St. Julian's, above the Ufk. As I was feveral times prevented by bad weather from vifiting it, I fhall only obferve, that from the plan and defcription given by Mr. Morrice, who took the fur- vey, it was probably a Saxon encampment, formed by Harold to command the river, and to cut off all communication between Caerleon and the fouth, as the camp at the Lodge did to the north. It certainly could never be intended as a defence of Caerleon, becaufe the fartheft. fide has no ram- part or ditch, and is only fecured by a natural ravine, at tome diftance from •the camp. It muft have been often occupied by the Anglo Normans, who fire* ■quently bcucged and .pcffefTed themfelves of Caerleon. * Worthines of Wales, p. 48, N 2 [ 9* ] CHAPTER IT. Hiflory of Caerkon after the Departure of the Rowans. — King Arthur. — Knighis- cf the Round Table. — Church of St. Cadoc. — Ancient Abbey ,—Caftle. — Modern Jdiflory, and. prefent State of Caerleon. — Bridge .z—Singtdar Efcape of Mrs, Williams. rjOON after the departure of the Romans from Britain, the reports of tradition- and the pages of romance, have afiigned to Caerleon a ftill greater fplen- dour and importance than under their domination. It is fuppofed to have been the metropolis of the Britifh. empire ; the favourite refidence of the renowned- king Arthur, and his knights of the round table. Arthur is faid to have nourifhed in the fixth century, and is ufually called the fourth of that race of kings, who are known by the name of the Armorican line,, and from whom the inhabitants of Britain are ftyled Armorican Britons. Al - though numerous aurhors of great talents have written in favour of Arthur, and' many hiftorians have alTented to the proofs which they have advanced, yet their opinions are difcorciant and contradictory. They only agree in fupporting his exiftence, but differ in the moft material circumftances of his lineage, birth, life, and death. The incredible accounts of the Britifh hero given by Geoffrey of Monmouth, have caft an air of fable over his real exploits, and rendered even, his exigence fufpected. The natives of Caerleon however, are not inclined to this opinion : they point, out the remains of the Roman amphitheatre, under the name of Arthur's Round Tabic, from a fjppofition that a military order was here inflituted, which firft laifed the fprit of chivalry in Europe. Arthur and his knights are recordedto have held their feafts within the precincts of this area, feated at a round table, for the purpofe of promoting focial intercourfe, and fuperfeding the diflindions- 3 of C A E R L E O N. 9- of Jtate. But this legend has no foundation in hiltory ; and the articles of the order, which have been gravely quoted as authentic, difplay an internal evidence of forgery ; they contain notions of chivalry, honour, and gallantry, which did not in that age prevail in any country of Europe *, The number of thefe heroes is nolefs uncertain than their hiftory ; they in- crease as rapidly as Falftaff's men of buckram. Some, with Dryden, in the beautiful fable of the flower and the leaf, limit the number to twelve : " Who bear the bow were knights in Arthur's reign ; " Twelve they, and twelve the knights of Charlemagne." Others make them twenty-four; while the ballad of the noble acts of king Arthur extends their number from fifty to fixty-five : " Then into Britain {trait he came, " Where fifty good and able " Knights then repaired unto him, " Which were of the round table." But afterwards, fpeaking of fir Launcelot du Lake, it is faid : " Who has in prifon threescore knights, " And four that he had wound ; " Knights of king Arthur's court they be,. " And of his table round." BoilTeau, in his Promptuaire Armoriale, after reciting the names of the nrft twenty-four knights, mentions one hundred and twenty-nine more, and gives a formal blazon of their arms. On the death of Arthur, the order was fuppofed to be extinguifhed ; for it is related, that moll of his knights companions inarms perifhed in the fata! battle of Camblun, where he received his mortal wound. The order fell into difrepute among the Saxons, but abroad a new phoenix arofe from its allies, and produced the twelve peers and table ronde of Charlemagne On * Such as to advance the reputation of honour, to to ladies, gentlewomen, widows, or maids, and to deliver prifoners, to ranfom captives, to revenge all inform young princes, lords, and gentlemen, in the complaints made at the court of their mighty king, orders and exercifes of arms, for the purpofe of avoid- of perjury and oppreflion, to protect widows and ing idlenefs, and increafing the honour of knight- maid', to avenge the injuries or diflionour offered hood or chivalry. Enderbie. 9+ CHAPTER il On the Norman conqueft, and the overthrow of the Saxon dominion, king- Arthur's memory acquired frefh renown in England. The round table role into great eftimation, and was introduced at the grand martial exercifes called haililudes, tilts, or tournaments, which were much encouraged by king Richard the firft, " as well " as Afhmole fays, " for the delight of men inclined to military act.ions, and increafing of their lkill in their management of arms, as in memorial or remembrance, that Arthur had erected an order of knighthood *." The cuf- tom was adopted by king Stephen, and continued by feveral of his fuccefibrs. Edward the firft, in particular, gave a new fplendour to the folemnity, when, on the conqueft of Wales, he fixed his temporary refidence at Caernarvon : with a view to conciliate the affections of his new fubjects, who fondly cherifhed the memory of Arthur, and fuperftitioufly believed that he would re -appear, and eftablilli the feat of empire at Caerleon -}•-, he held a round table, and cele- brated it with dance and tournament. At length Edward the third, an illuftrious example and patron of chivalry* availed himfelf of the high notions entertained of Arthur and the knights of the round table, to eftabiiiTi a fimilar fraternity. He kept a folemn tournament at his beloved Windfor, received the knights who flocked from all quarters of Europe at a round table, and ordered the folemnity to be repeated at Wind- for every Whitfuntide. The fplendour of this meeting, and the confequence which Edward derived from it in every court of Europe, induced alfo Philip of Yul'j'.s to hold a round table at Paris. This competition inflamed the fpirit of chivalry, inceafed the reputation of the round table, and occafioned the in- ftitution of the order of the garter; intended, according to the fpirit of the times, " to adorn martial virtue with honour, rewards, and fplendour '];." Caerleon * Aflimote's Riftory cf the Order of tlie G'artefi " And repaire again the round table, t The romances of the bards were filled with pre- " By prophecy ft Berlin fet the date, ilitiions that Arthur was not dead, but would re- " Among princes king incomparable^ turn again and re-eftabliih the Britifh empire, tuwhich " His feat again Caeriion to tranflate, Daniel Lydgate alludes: " The pare has fufferen fpenne fo his Me, " He is a king crowned in Faerie, " His epitaph rtcordtth focertaine, " With fcepter and/word, and with his regalty, " Herelieth king Arthur that (ball raigne ngainc." *' Shall refort our lord and fovereigne, t Aftmole's Hhtoryof the Order of the Garter, " Out of Faerie and reigne in Brittaine; Seldens Notes on Drayton's Poly Albion. Wartcn's Etlay C A E R L E O N, 95 Caerlcon has alio been defcribcd as no lefs pre-eminent in learning, than in extent and magnificence. On the authority of an ancient author, Alexander- Elfebienfis, and of Geoffrey of Monmouth, Caerleon is faid to have contained* at the time of the firfl Saxon invafion, a fchool of two hundred aftronomers, Thefe idle affertions are credited even by Camden; and an obicure infeription in the church of U/k % has been perverted into an epitaph on SelirT Sunjwr, the Solomon of thefe aflronomers. Caerleon is equally pre-eminent in the annals of the church : here St. Julius and St. Aaron are faid to have fuffered martyrdom, and two chapels were erected to their honour; one near theprefent fite of St. Julian's, to which it communi- cated the name, and the ether at Penros, in the vicinity, of the town.- A third chapel was dedicated to St. Alban, another martyr, which , was conftrucled on an eminence to the eaft of Caerleon, overlooking the Ufk. A yew tree marks the fite; an adjoining piece of land is flill called the chapel yard, and in 1785 feveral ftone coffins were difcovered in digging for the foundations of a new houfe. In its fplendid days, Caerleon enjoyed the honour of being the metropolitan fee of Wales. According to the annals of the church, Dubricius, the great op- ponent of the Pelagian herefy, was the firfl archbifhop. He was fucceeded by St. David, called by bifhop Godwin uncle of king Arthur, and fon of Zan<5lus > a prince of Wales, who removed the fee from Caerleon to Menevia, which from him was called St. David's. The reafon for this tranflation, and the extraordi- nary accounts of his fan&ity, are detailed by bifhop Godwin -f. No Efiay on Englifli Poetry, paffim. Hiftory of Wind- about) being now 146 yeeresof age, as Bale out of the for. Britifh hi/lories reporteth. He was buried in his owns * See chapter i+. cathedrall church, and many hundreth yeeres after f " It feemeth he mifliked the frequency of people canonifed a faint by pope Caiixtus the fecond. Many at Caerlegion, as a means to withdraw him from con- things are reported of him incredible, and therefore not templation ; whereunto that he might be more free, worth reheariing, although I doubt not but God af- he made choice of this place for a fee, rather than for forded many miracles to the firft infancy of our church; any fitneffe of the fame otherwife. He fate long, to neither therefore would I befo peremptory in derogat- witte, 65 yeeres, and died at lalt ann. 642, (having ing too much from fuch reports, as we fee no reafon. nrlt built twelve monaiteries in the countrey there- why they may not be true. Of him they fay, that his birth 9 6 CHAPTER tu No remains of the ancient cathedral exift. The pre lent church was coll- ftructed in the Norman aera , and is dedicated to St. Cadoc, from whom it is called in Wellh, Langattoc, or the church of St. Cadoc*. It is built with coarfe materials, and plaiftered, and confifts of a nave, two ailles and chancel ; the tower is high and maffive. The infide exhibits an elegant fpecimen of gothic architecture ; and the old clerk exultingly told me, that the bifhop of Landaff at one of his vififeations, had called it the handfomeft church in his dio- cefe. He likewife pointed out to me a large bone with an inlcription : " This bone is part of a rib which has been preferved in this church many years." He boafted that it was part of the rib of the dun cow flain by Guy earl of Warwick; but in fact it is half the rib of a fmall whale. On exprefling my fatisfaclion at the beauty find neatnefs of the church, the old clerk expatiated on the bounty of Mr. Williams, a native of Caerleon, who bequeathed £. 1,000 for the purpofe of repairing it, and to whofe memory the natives are much attached for the eftablifhment of a free-fchool. Charles Williams, efq. was born and educated at Caerleon, and lived in his native town, until an unfortunate rencontre with his coufin Mr. Morgan of Penros, which terminated in the death of the latter, compelled him to quit his country. He fled to Smyrna, and after acquiring a confiderable fortune by trade, birth was foretold 30 yeeres beforehand} that he was dire&ion of.St.Tathai,an Irilh monk, who had opened alwaies attended by an angell that kept him com- a famous fchool at Gwent, the ancient Venta Siluruni pany ; that he bellowed upon the waters at Bathe that of the Romans, afterwards a bifhop's fee, now in extraordinary hcate they have; and (to repeat no ruins in Monmouth fhire. Our faint made fuch pro- more, for this is much more than any difcrete man grels both in learning and virtue, that when he re- will believe) that upon a time preaching to a great turned into Glamorgan/hire, Ids own country, he multitude of people at Brevy, the plaint ground grew fpread on every fide the rays of his wiidom and up in their fight, and increafcd under his feete unto a fanclity. Here, three miles from Cowbridge, he built pretty hillock/' Godwin's Catalogue of theBiihops, a church and a monaltery, which was called Llancar- p. 414. van ; the fchool that he eltablimed in this place, be- * " St. Cadccus, or St. Cadoc, was fon to Gunteus came mod: illullrious and fruitful in great and holy «r St. Woolos, by his wife Glachda, daughter of men. St. Cadoc flourifhed in the beginning of the Braghan, whofe name was given to the province now fixth century, and was fucceeded in the abbacy of called Brecknockfhire. On his father's abdication, Llancarvan by Ellenius, ' an excellent dilciple of an Cadoc, who was his tkleft fon, fucceeded in the go- excellent maltes,' fays Leland." Lives of the Saints, ■verhment ; but not long after followed his example, vol 1. p. sjz. a^id embracing a religious life, put himielf under the CAERLEON. 97 trade, returned to England, in the reign of king William, and lived in London incognito. He increaied his fortune by loans to government, and by purchafing in the funds, which were recently eftablilhed. He died in 1720, aged eighty- feven, and after bequeathing the bulk of his fortune to the family of Hanbury, left confiderable legacies for the advantage and improvement of his native town *. Tanner mentions a ciftertian abbey at Caerleon, and obferves, that king John, whilft earl of Morton, privileged the abbot and monks to be free of paying toll at Briftol. The quadrangular houfe belonging to Mils Morgan, and fome ad- jacent tenements, exhibit traces of the ancient ftrufture, in their gothic windows and doorways. During the middle ages, the hiftory of Caerleon is obfcure and uncertain. Notwithstanding its real ftrength under the Romans, and fabulous confe- quence in the annals of romance, its name feldom occurs in the pages of hillory. Although fpecified in the Triades as one of the thirty-three fortreffes of Britain, it is only once mentioned by Caradoc, during the Saxon jera. He relates that Alfred the Great fent his fleet to fubdue Caerleon upon Ufk, but was obliged to recall it, before he had effected the conquer!, on account of the progrefs of the Danes -f. It may have been forced and pillaged by the Saxons in their predatory incurfions, and was probably taken by Harold, when he over- ran this part of Gwent, and built his palace at Portfcwit. At the time of the conqueft, there is much doubt and uncertainty concern- ing its real fituation. According to Domefday Book, William de Scohies }', a great * See the chapter on Pont y Pool, and on the Me- moirs of fir Charles Hanbur*' Williams. ■f Powell's Tranflation, p. 37. J Caerleon is twice mentioned in Domefday Book, the firlr time in the article of Glocefterlhire, from which it ihould feem, that the revenues of Caerleon.one carucate of land there, and feven fifheries in the Wye and the Ulk, produced 7/. 10s. " Ints redditionem deCarleionet I. carrucatam qua: ibi eft, et VII. pifca- rias in Waie et Hufchae exeunt VII lib. et X. folid." p. 162. It is again mentioned under Herefordfhire ; among the lands poffefl'ed by William de Suohies are eight carucates within the precinfts of the caftle of Caerleon. Terra Wifti de Scohies. Witts de Scohies tenet VIII. ca acutas terras in Caf- tellaria de Carlion et Turltin tenet de illo. Ibi habet in dominio unam caracutam, et III. Waienles lege Walenii viventes cum III. caracutis et II. bordaiiis cum dimedio carat utas et reddr. IIII. lextars mellis. Ibi II. fervi et una ancilla. Ha:c terra wa!ta erat tempora: regis Edwafdi et quando Wilhelmus recepit modo vat XL. fol. o 9 8 CHAPTER ii. a great Norman chieftain, held of the crown part of the demefnes belonging to the caftle of Caerleon, which are called wafte lands in the time of Edward the Confeffor; but whether he occupied the caftle, or poflelfed the entire lordfhip of Caerleon is not afcertained. Soon after this period the hiftory becomes lefs doubtful. Before the con- ftru&ion of the caftle at Newport, there was no other fortrefs of coniiderable ftrength between Chepftow and Caerdiff; Caerleon, therefore, was the object of contention between the Englifii and Welih, and fecured to its poiTeflbr the do- minion of an extenfive region. It was for fome time the refidence of the line of petty chiefs who were defcended from Griffith prince of South Wales, and ftyled themfelves kings of Gwent, and lords of Caerleon : at another time it was wrefted from them,, and became the feat of the Anglo-Norman barons. Being repeatedly demoliihed in thefe deftructive contentions, the citadel was built by the Anglo-Normans, which rendered the caftle a ftronger and more perma- nent place of defence ; and frequent accounts of its obftinate refiftance are re- corded in the annals of the times. Towards the beginning of the twelfth century, Caerleon was pofteffed by Owen furnamed Wan, or the feeble, from whom it was conquered by Robert de Chandos, founder of Goldcliff Priory. According to an old deed cited by Dugdale, among •other" poffeffions,. he afligned to the monks the tythes of a mill and an orchard at Caerleon, together with the churches of St. Julius, St. Aaron, and St. Aiban, and their appurtenances * From Robert de Chandos Caerleon was recovered by Jorwerth and Morgan the fons of Owen ; was afterwards taken by- William earl of Glocefter and lord, of Newport, but again rc-conquered by Jorwerth. Caradoc defcribes it as an object of contention between Jorwerth and Henry the fecond, who in his progrefs to Ireland in 1171, feifed and garrifoncd the town and caftle. In a fubfequent year, Henry being involved in a conteft with his fons, Jorwerth inveftcd Caerleon, and after an obftinate refiftance forced the town, * There is an obfeurity in this paflage, which Aaron atque Alban, cum pertinenciis fuis." Dug- feems to imply, that there was but one church dedi- dale's Monafticon, vol. 2. p. 904. cated to the three faints ; " et eccleiiam fancli Julii et CAE It L E O N. 99 town, and obtained by compofition the furrender of the caille. Animated with thisfuccefs, his fon Howel reduced the greater part of Nether-went, and com- pelled the inhabitants to withdraw their allegiance from the king of England. Jorwerth, however, did not long enjoy this independance, for he was trcacheroufly feifed by Rhys prince of South Wales, and conveyed to the king at Glocefter. Henry treated his prifoner with unexpected clemency, and Jorwerth, after doing homage, had livery of the caftle and lordfhip of Caerleon*. Being again alternately occupied and ravaged by both parties, Caerleon was not permanently poffefied by the Englifh, until the reduction of Wales by Edward the firft ; when the puiffant family of Clare re-entered into poffeffion, in virtue of their defcent from Amicia, fole daughter and heirefs of William earl of Glocefter. It came by the female line in the fame manner as the caftle of UJk, through the great family of Mortimer earl of March, to Richard duke of York, whofe right and title to the lordfhip of Caerleon, are proved in a curious deed cited by Dugdale -\-. From him it defcended to his fons Edward the fourth and Richard the third, and continued for fome time in the crown. The lordfhip of Caerleon was afterwards pofTefTed by the branch of the Morgan family feated at Lantar- nam„ was left by one of the coheireffes of that family to John Howe, efq. father of the firft lord Chedworth, purchafed by Mr. Burgh, and conveyed by his niece to Mr. Blanning, the prefent proprietor. According to tradition, the lordfhip of Caerleon once extended as far as the neighbourhood of Chepftow, comprehending the chafe of Wentwood, and other tracts of woodland and pafture j and although gradually diminifhed by the revolutions of property, even now ftretches in a narrow ftrip almoft as far as Caerwcnt. The town of Caerleon is reduced, from its ancient extent and grandeur, to an ♦ Caradoc's Hiftory of Wales, by Powell, p. 197. earl of Glocefter, from whom Richard duke of York to p. 203. was lineally defcended. See alio Carta Regis Ed wardi I. f Dugdale's Monafticon, vol. 2. p. 904. " Tim- conftrmans donationem Roberti de Chandos, vol. 1. lusRxardi ducisEbor,ad dominium de Karlyon, et p. 590. and Carta Regis Johannis, p. 591. See the patronagium prioratus de Goldclyffe." This deed pedigree of the defendants of Gilbert the firft earl of enumerates the lords of Caerleon from Owen Wan to Glocefter, in the chapter on Ufk. Elizabeth de Burgh, lifter of Gilbert de Clare, Jail O 2 ioo C H A P T E R ii. an inconfi'derable place. Since the removal of the port to Newport, it is no longer the center of trade and communication, and was fcarcely vifited even by travellers, until Mr. Wyndham firft excited curiofity by the publication of his tour in Wales.. The number of inhabitants, including the village, or Ultra Pontem, amounts to no more than 763 *. The town contains no manufactures ; but is greatly benefited by the tin works of Mr. Butler, which are eftablilhed in the vicinity. Thefe works are capable of manufacturing annually from 14,000 to 20,000- boxes of tin plates, containing each from 200 to 300 plates. Iron plates are rolled, alfo patent iron rods, (hip bolts, and fquare iron bars. The machinery of the mill is worthy of notice : it is wholly of iron ; the two fly wheels, with the water wheel and their combined powers, weigh feventy-five tons, and make forty- five revolutions in one minute. It is propofed to annex another fyftem of powers to the fame water wheel, by which a weight of twenty tons will be added, and the whole will revolve with the fame velocity. The^wooden bridge over the Ufk may be confidered as fimilar to that erected by the Romans; the frame is not unlike the carpentry of Casfar's bridge over the Rhine,, which he has defcribed in his Commentaries, and of which Stukeley has given a plan, in the fecond volume of his Itinerarium Curiofum. The floor, fupported by ten lofty piers, is level, and divided by polls and rails into rooms or beds of boards, each twelve feet in length ; the apparently loofe and disjointed flate of the planks, and the clattering noife which they make, under the preflure of a. heavy weight, have not unfrequently occafioned alarm to thofe who are unuied to them. Some travellers, from a iuperficial view of the ftructure, have afferted that the planks are placed loofe, to admit the tide through their interflices when it rifes above the bridge, and which would, if they were fixed, force them from the frame and carry them away. But in fact the tide has never been known to rife above the bridge, nor was the floor- ing xonftructed to obviate this inconvenience. Formerly- the planks were fatten- ed at each extremity with iron nails ; but the wood being liable to fplit, and the * From Mr. Evans. THE TOWN OF CAERXEOZN ON TH E RIVE It USK. Published March r 1800. by C/uletl ScDayies, So und. C A E R L E O N. 101 the nails frequently forced up, by the elaftic agitation of the beams, under the prcflure of heavy carriages, the planks were fecurcd from riling by horizontal rails, fattened to the polls, and prevented from Hipping tideways, by a peg at each end, within the rail. The height of the water, at extraordinary tides, exceeds thirty feet, but though it has never rifen above the floor, yet the united body of a high tide, and the floods to which the Uik is fubject, have been known to carry away parts of the bridge. An accident of this kind which happened on the 29th of October 1772, occahoned a Angular event, to which I mould not have given credit, had it not been authenticated by the moft refpectable teftimony. As Mrs. Williams, wife of Mr. Edward Williams, brazier, was returning from the village of Caerleon to the town, at eleven o'clock at night, with a candle and lanthorn, the violence of the current forced away four piers, and a confider- able part of the bridge. On a fragment of this mafs, confifting of an entire room, with the beams, pofts, and flooring, fhe was hurried down the river ; butpreferved fufficient prefence of mind to fupport herfelf by the railing. On arriving near St. Julian's, the candle was extinguished ; fhe immediately fcreamed for help, and was heard by feveral perfons, who flarted out of their beds to affift her ; but the violence of the ftream had already hurried her beyond their reach. During this time fhe felt little apprehenfion, as fhe entertained hopes of being delivered by the boatmen of Newport ; her expectations were -increafed by the numerous lights which fhe difcerncd in the houfes, and fhe accordingly redoubled her cries for affiftance, though without effect. The fragment on which fhe flood being broken to pieces againfl a pier o£ Newport bridge, fhe fortunately beflrode a beam, and after being detained for fome minutes by the eddies at the bridge, was rapidly hurried along towards the fea. In this perilous fituation fhe refigned herfelf to her approaching fate, and addreffing herfelf to Heaven, exclaimed, " Oh. Lord, I truft in thee, thou aione canfl fave me." About a mile from Newport, fhe difcerned a glimmering light, in a barge which was moored near the fhore, and redoubling her cries, was heard by the mailer 102 C H A P T E R it. matter of the vefTel. After bailing her, and learning her fituation, he cried out " keep up your fpirits, and you will foon be out of danger," then leaping into the boat, with one of his men, rowed towards the place from whence the fcreams proceeded ; but fome time elapfed before he overtook her, at a confi- derable diftance from the anchorage of his barge. The night was fo dark that they could not difcern each other, and the furf fwelling violently, the mailer repeated his exhortations, charged her to be calm, and not attempt" to quit her ftation. Fortunately a fudden difperfion of the clouds, enabled him to lafh the beam fore and aft to the boat. At this- moment, however, her prcfence of mind forfook her, and eagerly attempting to throw herfelf forward fhe was checked by the oaths of the feamen, who were at length enabled to heave her into the boat ; but could not difengage themfelves from the beam, till they had almoft reached the mouth of the Uik. This being effected, not without great difficulty, they rowed to the fhore, and embayed themfelves till the firft dawn of the morning, when they conveyed her in the boat to Newport. Though Mrs. Williams was in an advanced ftate of pregnancy, fhe received fo little injury from this perilous accident, that after a few hours repofe fhe returned to Caerleon. I have been thus minute in detailing the particulars of this providential efcape, becaufe it has been related with fo many improbable circumftances, as to occafion doubts of its reality. For the truth of this -narrative, I can adduce the tcftimony of Mr. Jones of Clytha, Mr. Kemeys of Mayndee, and the Rev. Mr. Evans ; all of whom foon afterwards converted with Mrs. Williams. To Mr. Evans in particular, flic uniformly repeated the fame account, and confirmed it on her death bed, with the molt folemn affeverations. The diftinterefted conduct of the mafter and boatman ought not to be omit- ted: notwithstanding the peril to which they were expofed, and their active ex- ertions, they repeatedly declined the liberal recompenfe offered by Mr. Williams. [ 1 CHAPTER 12. Sf. Julian's. — Memoirs of Lord Herbert of Cherbury. TT^ROAI Caerleon a walk leads through hanging woods and over fertile mea- dows to St. Julian's, a place once remarkable for the refidence of the cele- brated lord Herbert of Cherbury ; it is fituated nearly midway between Caer- leon and Newport, on the banks of the Ulk. The building, now converted into a farm houfe, has been lately much reduced from its original fize : part of the fouth front has been modernifed, part remains in its former ftate ; and the whole prefents a motley combination, which, at the fame expence, might have pre- ferred the venerable appearance of the old manfion, and the comforts of a modern houfe. The ancient gothic porch, which ftill forms the entrance, is likely to be foon deftroyed, according to the plan adopted in the prefent alterations. The north front, which has been permitted to retain its antique appearance, is a pi&urefque object, backed by a wooded eminence, and overhanging the abrupt banks of the Ufk. The infide has feme remains of former magnificence, particularly in the ftair- cafe, and feveral gothic doorways Two apartments retain their ancient di- mensions, but were about to be converted into fmaller rooms : the lower apartment was 36 feet in length, 20 broad, and 17 high; the upper 45 by 20, and of the fame height ; againft the walls are the remains of flender pillars of the gothic ftyle. Near the houfe is an old barn of fmall dimenfions, which was once part of the chapel of St. Julius, from whom the place derived its appellation ; on the fouth wall are the remains of an arched entrance, which is now half filled up ; the eaft 4 and io 4 CHAPTER 12. and weft: windows may be traced, and a fmall gothic doorway to the weft, ftill remains in its original ftate. According to an ancient tradition, this chapel and manfion were once included within the town of Caerleon *. Edward Herbert, firft lord Herbert of Cherbury, whofe fame induced me to viht this place, was the fourth male in lineal defcent from fir Richard Herbert of Coldbrook, knight. The eftate and manfion of Coldbrook were inherited by fir William Herbert, the eldeft fon, and continued in the pofTeflion of his line. Sir Richard Herbert, fecond fon, was fteward of the lordftiips and marches of North Wales, and feated at Montgomery Caftle, where his defcendants principally refilled. His great grandfon, the fubjedt of this chapter, was fon of Richard Herbert and Magdalen Newport, of High Arkal!, in Shropshire ; and was born in 1581 at Eyton in the fame county. During his early years he was fickly and infirm, and was not taught to read until he was feven. But this tardinefs was amply repaid by the extraordinary pro- grefs which he made in his ftudies ; for when he was no more than twelve, he attained fo great a knowledge of learned languages and logic, that he was fent to the univerfity college in Oxford. Here he gained great applaufe by dis- puting in logic, and compofing his tafk oftener in Greek than in Latin. The death of his father, in the fame year, occafioned a temporary removal from the univerfity; and foon afterwards he contracted a marriage with the heirefs of St. Julian's, which procured him that manfion and eftate ; fhe was the daughter of fir William Herbert of St. Julian's, who was lineally defcended from the earl of Pembroke, and who is praifed by Churchyard in verfe fuperior to his ufual fiyle, as a worthy defcendant of that illuftrious peer : " And thou my knight, that art his heire in blood, " Though lordlhip, land, and Raggland's {lately towers, " A female heire, and force of fortune's flood f< Have thee bereft, yet bearft his fruits and flowers ; " His * " The citie reacht to Creechurch than, « And to St. Gillyan's both : " Which yet appears to view of" man, ** To try this tale of troth." Churchyard's Woithines of Wules, p. ia. / ) LOK.P JilKRBKRT of CllE KB FRY. Ful'lijhrd Jfarch i.idoo.bv Caddl k Diti-ifj . Strand . LORD HERBERT OF CHERBURY. 10; tl His amies, his name, his faith and mynd are thync, * c By nature, nurture, arte and grace devyne : " Ore feas and lands, thefe move thee payns to take, " For God, for fame, for thy fweete foveraines fake *. Sir William Herbert bequeathed all his pofieflions to Mary his only child, pro- vided flie married one of the furname of Herbert, or otherwife left her only a fmall portion out of his lands in Anglefey and Caernarvonshire. " She conti- ** nued unmarried, " to ufe lord Herbert's own expreffion, " till flie was one-and- ** twenty ; none of the Herberts appearing in all that time who either in age or for- si tune was fit to match her : about this time I had attained the age of fifteen, " and a match being propofed, yet notwithstanding the difparity of years betwixt " us, upon the eight and twentieth of February 1598, in the houfe of Eyton, *' where the fame man, vicar of ****** married my father and mother, ** chriflened and married me, I efpoufed herf." Not long after this marriage, he returned to Oxford with his wife and mother, and continued his sfludies with increafed afTiduity. Befides his improvements in ■clafTical literature, and the other branches ufually cultivated, he attained the French, Italian, and Spanifh languages without any affrftance, and alfo acquired fuch a knowledge of mufic as to fing at fight and to play on the lute. " My *' intention" he fays " in learning languages, being to make myfelf a citizen " of the "world, as far as it were pofTible, and my learning of mufick was for " .this end, that I might entertain myfelf at home, and together refrefh my " mind after my ftudies, to which I was exceedingly inclined, and that I might " not need the company of young men, in whom I obferved, in thofe times, " much ill example and debauchery +. M He alfo devoted himfelf to the ftudy of medicine and anatomy, arfeding to difcriminate and to cure many difeafes which had baffled the fkill of the moft eminent phyficians. He was extremely affiduous in learning all bodily exercifes, except dancing, for which, he fays, he could never find leifure, " as imploying my mind always in acquiring fome art or fcience more ufefull." He was remarkable for agiiity in running, leaping, and wrcflling; excelled in fencing, riding in the manege - 3 * Wqrthinca of Wales, p. 10, f Life, p. 25, 26. % Life, p. 17. P io6 CHAPTER 12. manege ; learned the art of (hooting with the long bow, breaking holies for the wars, and fighting duels on horfeback : in this iaft qualification his expertnefs afterwards faved his life ; being fuddenly attacked by fir John Ay res and four armed afibciates, he defended himfelf with fo much courage, that although thrown from his horfc, dragged in the flirrup, and his fword broken, he drove away the affailants, and wounded fir John Ayres, after having wrcfted his dag- ger from him, and firuck his fword out of his hand *. At eighteen he quitted Oxford, and refided either with his mother in London,, or at Montgomery caftle, till he attained the age of twenty-one. On the death of queen Elifabeth, he advanced to Burley near Stamford, to congratulate king James on his acceffion, and met with a gracious reception from the new monarch. Being foon afterwards created knight of the Bath, he does not omit informing us, that at his inflallation the earl of Shrewfbury put on his fpur, and that a " principal lady of the court, and in moll men's opinion " the handlbmeft, took off the taflel of filk and gold from his fieeve, anfwered u that he would prove a good knight, and pledged her honour for his." In taking the ufual oath of the knights, " never to fit in place where injuflice " fhould be done, except to right to the uttermofl of their power, and par- ** ticularly ladies and gentlewomen that fhall be wronged in their honour, if " they defired afiiftance," his imagination, already filled with romantic notions of barbarous chivalry, was fired with additional enthufiafm, and thinking himfelf. bound by the literal tenor of his oath, he engaged in duels on the mcft frivolous pretences. In 1608, on account of a difagrcement with his wife about the fettlement on their children, as well as from a defire of vifiting foreign courts, he went abroad. During this excurfion he traverfed France, Germany, Switzerland and Italy, and perfomed many acts of extaordinary heroiim, " as make us wonder, and wonder " would make us doubt, did not the charm of his ingenuous integrity difpel our " hefitation f-" To enumerate all the inftances of romantic intrepidity recorded by himfelf, would be to tranferibe whole pages ; I fhall therefore recite in his own words only one * Lift, p, 88—91, f Life; Advertisement. LORD HERBERT Ot CHERCURT. to? ohe example, which took place at the fioge of Juliers. " One day fir Edward Cecill and myfelf, coming to the approaches that Monfieur de Balagnv had made againft a bulwark or baltion of that city, Monfieur de Balagnv, in the prefence ■of Sir Edward Cecill, and diverfe Englifh and French captains then prefent, (aid, " Monfieur, on dit, que vous etes un des plus braves de votre nation, et je •fuis Balagny, allons voir qui faira le mieux ; they fay you are one of the braveft of your nation, and I am Balagny, let us fee who will do bed." Whereupon leaping fuddenly out of the trenches with his fword drawn, I did in the like - tnanner as fuddenly follow him ; both of us in the mean while ftriving who mould be foremoft, which being perceived by thofe of the bulwark and cortine oppofite to us, three or four hundred thot at leaft, great and fmall, were made againft us. Our running forwards in emulation of each other was the caufe that all the fliots fell betwixt us and the trench from which we fallied. When Mon- fieur Balagny finding fuch a ftorm of bullets, faid " Par dieu, il fait bien chaud, It is very hot here." I anfwered briefly thus, " Vous en irez primier, autrement je n'iray jamais ; You fhall go firft, or elfe I will never go :" hereupon he ran with all fpeed towards the trenches, I followed after, leifurely and upright, and yet came within the trenches before they on the bulwark or cortine could charge again 5 which paflage afterwards being related to the prince of Orange, he faid it wasaftrange bravado of Balagny, and that we went to an unavoydable death Soon after his return to England he became dhTatisfied with the inactivity of his life and was meditating to raife a regiment for the fervice of the Vene* tians againft the Turks ; but was prevented by an accidental meeting with fir George Villiers, afterwards duke of Buckingham. The king having occafion to fend an embaflador to France, for the purpofe of renewing the alliance between the two kingdoms, fir George Villiers mentioned fir Edward Herbert among eighteen perfons, who were deemed fitted for that employment. The king ap- proved him without the fmalleft hefitation and the firft knowledge he had of his nomination, was on being faluted embalfador to France, by the lords of the council, During * Life, p. 7«, P 2 io8 CHAPTER it. During his embaffy he out-punctilioed the punctilious cmbaffador of Spain, and returned the infolence of the great conftablc de Luynes, the defpotic minifter of Louis the thirteenth, " with the fpirit of a gentleman, without committing " the dignity of embaffador *." In 1625 he was advanced by king James to the dignity of a baron of the king- dom of Ireland, by the title of lord Herbert of Caftle Ifland, and in 1631 to art Englifn peerage, by that of lord Herbert of Cherbury in Shropshire. At -the commencement of the difputes between Charles the firft and the Houfe of Com- mons, he took an active part on the fide of the fovereigm During the meeting of the peers, which the king fummoned to York in 1640, his advice proved the vigour of his mind, and his decided averfion to temporifmg meafures- The commiffioners to treat of a peace with the Scots, recommending the king to pay £.40,000 a month for the maintenance of the Scottifh troops until they were difbanded, lord Herbert ftrongly reprobated this humiliating propofal, and concluded a fpirited and dignified fpeech, with advifing the king to fortify York, and defend himfelf againft the invafion of the Scots.. Thefe refolutions were not adopted; the king confented to give £.25,000 a month for the maintenance of the Scottifh troops, and haftened to London to fummon that parliament, which abolifhed monarchy, and doomed him to the fcaffold. The noble peer difplayed no lefs fpirit in the houfe of lords, and was com- mitted to the black rod for his manly defence of the king, in oppofition to rome violent refolutions moved by lord Kimbolton, and adopted by the houfe. Being releafed from cuftody, he obtained permifllon. to. retire into the country for his health, and inftantly joined the king at York.-j-. Not long afterwards, however,, he changed his party, from, a conviction of the weaknefs and divifion of the king's counfels, rather than from motives of patriot- ifm ; for at the period in which he acceded to the popular fide, the arbitrary conduct of Charles the firft during the early years of his reign, was obliterated by the greater defpotifm of the parliament, and the caufe of monarchy was the caufe of all honeft and difcerning minds. In: » Royal.and Noble Authors, vol. 1, p. 214. f Parliamentary Hiftory, vol. is, p. 3, LORD HERBERT OF CHERBURY. 109 In 1644 we find him receiving fatisfaction from the houfe of commons for the demolition of Montgomery caftle. He was at this period far advanced in years, which was probably the caufe, that with his military prowefs and entcr- prifing fpirit, he did not take an active part in the civil wars. He expired on the fecond of Auguft 1648, in his houfe in- Queen flreet, London, aged 67, and was buried in the chancel of St- Giles's in the fields. His grave was covered with a flat marble flab, containing a fliort infeription compofed by himfelf *. The earl of Shaftefbury ufed to fay, there was in every one, two men, the wife and the fooliih, and that each of them muft be allowed his turn-j~. This obferva- tion is peculiarly applicable to lord Herbert of Cherbury. In one point of view, we obferve him, like the knight of La Mancha, fighting with windmills,, redrei,- ling the wrongs of diftreffed damfels, and rifting his life to wreft a lady's top-knot from the hands of a rude defpoiler ; at other times we difcern the fame man devoted to a life of retirement, and with equal fpirit cultivating philofophy, hif- tory, and poetry.. He is juftly defcribed by the author of the Welfli tribes as " the hiftoricd,, the philofophical, the right whimfical peer, a man at once and together the negotiator, the fcholar, ftatefman, foldier, the genius and abfurdity of his time and nation '{'." At one moment, he enforces the belief of a deity in terms of the higheft veneration,, and inculcates the necemty of a future ftate, and the doctrine of rewards and punifhments ; at another, he labours to undermine the truth of the only religion which afcertains the exiftence and attributes of a fuper- intending deity, and fubftantiates by moral and hiftorical proof the certainty of a future retribution. Vanity was his prevailing foible ; hence he reprefents himfelf as a mod extra- ordinary being, even from his infancy, to the laft ftage of his life. He fays, " My infancy • « Huic inhamatur corpus Edvardi Herbert equi- which is given by Lloyd. Eng. Worthies, p. 1018. tis Balnei, baroiiis de Cherbury & Caftle Jftand, auc- R oya l and Noble Authors, vol. 1 p. m8." toris libri, cui titulus eft, De Veritate. Reddor ut | Locke's Memoirs of the Earl of Shaftefbury,. herbae, vicefimo die Augufti anno Domini 1648." Works, vol. 3, p. 4.74. He had eretted an allegoric monument for hinv j p > q 2 . kit in- the church of Montgomery, a delciiption of i\h C ft A P T E R 11. infancy was very rickly ; it was fo long before I began to fpeak, that many though ■I fhould be ever dumb ; the very furtheft thing I remember is, that when I •uiiderft'ood what was faid by ethers, I did yet forbear to fpeak, left I fhould utter iifme thing that were imperfect or impertinent." He attempts to prove his own fuperior acutenefs, merely "becaufe he afked^ a queftion, which perhaps fcarcely any child ever omitted : " when I came to talk, one of the furtheft enquiries I made was how I came into this world ? I told my nurfe, keeper, and others, I •found myfelf here indeed, but from what caufe or beginning, or by what means J could not imagine ; but for this I was laughed at by the nurfe, and fome other women that were prefent, fo I was wondered at by others, who faid they never 'heard a child but myfelf afk that queftion He exaggerates common incidents into extraordinary events : he informs us, as a miraculous circumftance, that he grew the breadth of two little fingers after lie was thirty years old ; that he weighed lighter than men who were lower than himfelf by the head, and in their bodies ilenderer ; and that he had a con- stant pulfe in the crown of his head. With refpedt to another bodily excellence, let the noble author fpeak for him- felf : " It is well known to them that wait in my chamber, that the fhirts, \vaiftcoats, and other garments I wear next my body are fweet, beyond what either eafily can be believed, or hath been obferved in any body elfe ; which fweetnefs alfo was found to be in my breath, before I ufed to take tobacco ." In an age of chivalry the fair, like Defdemona, were wooed with ftories of " Battles, Sieges, Fortunes j and lord Herbert of Cherbury, like Othello, could, " even from his boyifh days, i£ AUGUST/E STIPENDIORUM p. 192, plate 69. OCTODECIM ARMORUM QUADRAGINTA IIIC SITUS 3 VALE O F USL 123 elevated ridge on which the upper road is carried ; the woods and ruins of Lan- gibby caftle crowning the eminence. From the bank along which we rode, ftretched a rich and extenfive plain, bounded by diftant hills, and before us the church and town of Uik terminated the view : this plain, called the vale of the Uik *, is the largeft tract of level ground in the inland parts of the county ; it extends to the weft of the town, as far as Landenny, along the lands watered by the Olwy ; and to the fouth between the Uik. and the elevated ground beyond Lantrifaint, almoft to New Bridge ; a rich and fertile diftrict, but expofed to the inundations of the Uik and Olwy. * It is neceflaiy to diftinguiihthe vale of Ufk from Abergavenny, along both fides of the river, as far as the vale of the UUc, which ftretches from beyond Lanvair church, at the bottom of the Clytha hills. i till a TfiF]JtiN;\'!)i' vm'nm n 2 CHAPTER 14. Town of Ujh. — Ancient Burrium. — Cajlle. — Hijtory and Proprietors. — Church.— Infcription. — Priory. — Encampments of Craeg y Gaercyd, Campwood, and Coed y Bunedd. TH E town of Ufo is pleafantly fituated on the left bank of the river, where the well-wooded undulations of a hilly diftricl terminate in the fertile vale of Ufk ; and where the abrupt tranfition from the level and cultivated plain, to the wildnefs of foreft fcenery, is peculiarly finking. A ftone bridge of five arches is built acrofs the Ufk, from which the moun- tains in the neighbourhood of Abergavenny prefent themfelves with confiderable effecl: ; the even tidgc of the BJorenge., and the conical fliape of the Sugarloaf, are finely contrafled with the broken fummit of the Skyrrid, appearing through an opening of the circumjacent hills. Although no Roman antiquities have ever been difcovered, either in this town or its vicinity, yet Uik is generally and juftly allowed to have been the ancient Burrium, an opinion confirmed by its central pofition between Caerleon, Aber- gavenny, and Monmouth, and by the exacl: coincidence of its di fiance from thofe places, with the diftance in the Itineraries of Burrium, from Ifca Silurum, Gobannium, and Bleftium. Many authors, however, not fatisfied with this argument, endeavour to draw other proofs from its fquare form*, from its fituation at the confluence of two rivers, a fuppofed refemblance between the Roman name of Burrium -}~ , and the Britifli appellation Bryn Byga, and from certain * It may be fecn from the plan, that the town is by Bwr, pronounced Boor, (ignifies an enclofure, an en- no means of a fquare form. trenchment, or work thrown up for defence. It is f Some pcrfons fuppofe the name of Burrium de- generally ufed in the Britim tongue, for a fimple caf- jived from the fmall rivulet Byrddin, which falls into trum, or ftrong hold, fortified with heaps of timber, the Uik, a mile above the town, on the oppofite fide ltones, and other materials, as were the ancient Bntifh of the river, merely becaufe the three firft letters of fortreffes. See Owen's Welili and English Dictionary, each word have a fimilar found. Mr. Owen, however, art. Bwr. lias favoured me with a more natural derivation ; Puh?Ju*y2o.t&€>0 &y Cadsff &Dav>i&v Strand. TOWN O F USK. 125 certain rectilinear fwellings or banks, although none of thefe circumftances are fufficiently decifive to prove it a Roman ftation. It was moft probably a Britifh town, and derived its Roman name from Bwr, which fignifies an entrenchment, or enclofure fortified with trees and ftones, in the manner of the ancient Britons. Being taken by the Romans, it was perhaps never ufed as a primary ftation, but fimply curbed by a garrifon, who occupied a fmall fort, fituated on the very eminence where the ruins of the prefent caftle are placed. Ufk is undoubtedly a place of great antiquity, and was of confiderable extent. In digging wells, and making foundations for buildings, three ranges of pave- ment have been difcovered, and in the adjacent fields pitched roads traced *, which are fuppofed to have been ftreets of the town. According to the tradition of the natives, feveral places, at fome diftance from the prefent houfes, were once comprifed within the precincts ; and a lane, called Book -f lane, was pointed out to me as having been a ftreet of the town. Many ancient houfes are in ruins, and a confiderable diftrict is much dilapidated, exhibiting the ap- pearance of having been facked, and recently quitted by an enemy : feveral of thefe houfes are faced with hewn ftone, and from the form of the windows, feem to have been constructed at an early period ; the natives confider thefe ruins as the effect of Owen Glendower's devaluations ; the weftern part is more modern, and in better repair, and the place, of which the new market -houfe occupies the center, has a neat appearance. Ufk contains one hundred and fixty-fix houfes, and not more than feven hundred inhabitants. It has no commerce, and only one manufactory of japan ware, which was eftablifhed by Mr. Edward Aligood of Pont y Pool, and is now carried on by his nephew Mr. Hughes. The river is famous for its falmon ; and there are feveral weirs in the vicinity j one of thefe is rented by Mr. Rhees, poft- • In afield called Cae-puta, to the fouth of the town, + A ridiculous tradition is current among the na- between the church and the turnpike road, about tives, that this name is derived from the bookbind- five years ago, a paved road was difcovered under ers, who once inhabited the ftreet. ground ; it was nine feet broad, and formed of hewn fronts placed edgeways. ,*6 CHAPTER 14. poft-mafter, and brings a considerable profit ; in his houfe is the figure of a fal« mon, caught in 1782, which weighed 68 pounds and a half. To the fouth of the town are elevated embankments of earth, flretching in a ftrait line to the Ufk, oppofite Lanbaddoc, where there was formerly a ford. Thefe I once fuppofed to have been remains of ancient ramparts ; Mr. Morrice, however, from whofe furvey a plan of the town is given, more juftly confiders them as not intended for defence, but as raifed for the purpofe of preferving the town from the inundations of the Olwy, which often lays the adjacent country under water. Ufk is a borough town, and in conjunction with Newport and Monmouth, fends one member to parliament. The original charter for electing the mayor, regulating the adminiftration of juftice, and conferring certain privileges to the bailiff or mayor, community> and burgelfes, was granted by Elifabeth de Burgh, to whom the lordlhip belonged, and was confirmed by her fon Roger de Mortimer, earl of March, by a deed dated at his cattle of Ufk, in 1398, in which he fliles himfelfearl of March and Ulfter, lord of Ufk, Trelegg, Tregrucke, Carlyon, Edlogan, and Labeneth, in Wales. This charter being deftroyed, during the conflagration of the town by Owen Glendower, was confirmed by his fon Edmund, in the third year of Henry the fifth*. The difcovery of this charter proved highly beneficial to the inhabitants, who had, by a ftatute of queen Elifabeth, contributed to the repairs of New- port and Caerleon bridges but in 1792, at the fuggeflion of Mr. Prothero, an eminent attorney of the place, the corporation obtained an exemption, in virtue of a claufe in the fame ftatute, enacting " that no town corporate fhall be con- tributory, which is bound to make or repair any bridge over any main river." An agreeable walk leads under the firft arch of the bridge, to the Abergavenny road, through a meadow planted with large walnut trees, by the fide of the lim- pid and murmuring Ufk, under the ruins of the caflle and its high ponderous ivy-mantled tower, which are feen on this fide to the bcfl advantage. The » A copy of this charter is in the pofTeflion of the Rev. Mr. Jones of Fiftill, CASTLE OF US K. 127 The ruins of the caftle, which are neither magnificent, nor highly interefting in their appearance, ftand on an abrupt eminence, to the eaft of the river, and follow the circular bend of the hill ; they confift of the (hell, which enclofes an area or court, and fome outworks to the weft, formed by two ftrait walls con- verging to each other, and ftrengthened at the point of union by a round tower. At the extremity of the fouthern wall is a grand gothic gateway, with a groove for a portcullis, which was the principal entrance, and of which an accurate en- graving is given in Grofe's Antiquities ; the upper part is converted into a farm houfe, with confiderable additions. This fhell occupies a large extent. Like all ancient caftles built in early periods, it confifts of ftrait walls, ftrengthened with round and fquare towers, and provided on the out fide with no apertures, but long embrafures, or oeillets, excepting thofe which have fince been formed, Within are feveral apartments, with chimneys, and a baronial hall, meafuring 48 feet by 24. A vignette of the keep, or fquare tower, is annexed. No caftle in Monmouthfihire has been fubject to more frequent aftaults ; it fuffered, as well as the town, from the ravages of Owen Glendower, who, after committing the moft mercilels depredations, was defeated at the battle of Ufk, by the royal troops, and driven back in difgrace to his native mountains. A (ingular bird's eye view of Ulk is feen from the terrace, on the outfide of the caftle, under the ivy-mantled tower, which overhangs the brow of the preci- pice. The town occupies a level, and not a (ingle building feems to ftand on the fmalleft rife ; the houfes are partly intermixed with fields of pafture ; the white church of Lanbaddoc, which (lands on the oppofite bank, feems included with' in the precincts of the town; and the Uik, iffuing from hills and forefts, and gliftening as it paries the bridge, enhances the beauty of the circumjacent fcenery. The founder of this caftle is uncertain ; the earlleft account of it which has fallen under my obfervation, mentions that it belonged to Richard de Clare, earl of Glocefter and Hereford, who fiourilhed in the reign of Henry the third, and on whofedeath, in 1262 *, Maud, his widow, had an aflignation of the caftle and manor * He was buried in the church of Tewkfbury, and " Hie pudor Hippoliti, Paridis gena, fenfus Uliflis, an epitaph placed over his tomb, which afcribes to " /Eneac pietas, He&oris ira jacet." him the modeity of Hippolitus, the beauty of Paris, Dugdale's Baronage, vol. I. p. 213. the wildom of Ulyfles, the piety of /Eneas, and the wrath of Heftor ; i*8 CHAPTER 14. manor of Ufk, as part of her dower. We have therefore reafon to conclude, that it came to him by inheritance, from his anceftors the earls of Clare, who fubdued Nether-went. The firft invaders of thefe parts were Walter and Gilbert de Clare, whofiourifhed in the reign of Henry the firft} and the conqueft was completed by their immediate fucceffors *. The general character of the building feems to corroborate the opinion, that it was built in the Norman asra. On the death of Gilbert de Clare, laft earl of Glocefter, of that line, in 13 14, his fifter Elifabeth conveyed the caftleof Ufk, together with his other vaft ppf- felfions, to her hufband John de Burgh, fon of Richard earl of Uifter. Their fon William left an only daughter, Elifabeth, who efpoufed Lionel duke . c Clarence, third fon of Edward the third, and united by this marriage the vail inheritance of the families of De Burgh and Clare. His only daughter Philippa married Edmund Mortimer earl of I grandfon of Roger de Mortimer, the minion of queen Ifabella, who, in 1330, executed and attainted for the murder of Edward the fecond. In 1369 E had livery of all his caftles and lands. He was a puhTant peer, bearing the titles of earl of March and Uifter, lord of Wigmore, Clare and Connaugi.t, and marfhal of England. In 1379 he was conitituted lord lieutenant of Ireland ; and as Dugdale fays, " accordingly went thither, there to make his abode ; and fo tamed the barbaroufnefs of that rude people, by deftroying ten or eleven of their petty kings within the fpace of half a year, that he regained almoft all his lands in Uifter, which the Irifh had for a long time enjoyed : and proceed- ing farther into that country, what with his prudent conduct, affability to the natives, kindnefs, and eloquent expreffions, that within two years and a half he reduced all thofe parts to obedience : caufing divers oaks of an extraordinary length to be fent into Ireland, from his woods of Pennalt, in the territory of Ufke in Wales, wherewith he formed a ftrong bridge, with purpofe to fet over the river Banne, near to the town of Kolleroth, which was a principal harbour for the rebels, at both ends whereof he raifed a fort, (befides one 'in the midft) to the end it might be a fafeguard to himfelf and his own foldiers, and an ef- fectual destruction .to the enemy -f. Edmund * See the Pedigree of the Clare Family^in the chapter on Chepftow. f Dugdale, vol. j.p. 149. CASTLE OF USK 1 29 Edmund was prematurely overtaken by death in the midft of his great ex- was, by his own exprefs defire, depofited in the cathedral of Cork, until the flefli was confumed ; his bones were tranflated to Wigmore, and honourably entombed with the lady Philippa his wife, and two rhyming epitaphs in Latin were infcribed over their allies *. Edmund left iffue three fons and two daughters. His fecond fon, fir Edmund Mortimer, knight, was taken prifoner by Owen Glendower in 1403, an event which has given rife to much confufion, as he has been miftaken by hiftorians for his nephew. The youngeft fon, fir John, was imprifoned in the tower, and executed in 1424, under the charge of attempting to efcape, and raife an in- furredion in Wales -f. Roger, the eldeft fon and heir, was born at Ufk in 1374, and baptifed by William, bifliop of Hereford, having for his godfathers the bifhop of LandafT and the abbot of Glocefter, and the priorefs of Ufk for his godmother. In the parliament, held 1386, he was declared, in virtue of his defcent from Lionel duke of Clarence, heir apparent to the crown. After doing homage, and receiv- ing livery of all his lands, he followed, in 1396, the king into Ireland, with a re- tinue of two bannerets, eight knights, ninety- eight men at arms, two hundred archers on horfeback, and four hundred on foot. In 1399, being lord lieutenant of Ireland, hewasflainas he incautioufly advanced before his army in anlrifh habit. His eldeft fon, Edmund, who was only fix years old, being rightful heir to the crown, was detained in cuflody at Windfor, by the jealoufy of the new fove - reign, Henry the fourth. His uncle, fir Edmund Mortimer, after his capture, having leagued with Owen Glendower and Henry Percy, to dethrone Henry the fourth and raife his nephew to the crown, the young earl was fecretly conveyed from prifon, but retaken in his journey to Wales, and detained in clofcr cuftody than before. .From this flate he was delivered by the magnanimity of Henry the ploitsj in 138 1 he deceafed at Cork, in the 29th year of his age. His body fifth, « « Vir conftans, gratus, fapiens, bene nuper M Nobi'is iuc tumulata jacet comithTa Philippa, Actibus haec nituit larga, benigna fuit. Regum fanguis erat, niorum probitate vigebat Compaciens inopi, vivit in arce ccxli." amatus ; Nunc nece proftratus, fub marmore putret hu « matus. Hie jacet Edmundus moriens Corke corpore mundus : Sifque pins Ciirifte fibi, qucm lapis opprimit ifte." « Dugdale, vol. i. p. i^o. f Rapin, vol. 4. p. 333. s i 3 o CHAPTER 14. fifth, who, though well aware of his prior right to the throne, not only releafed him from confinement, but treated him with great kindnels, and even gave him the livery of all his lands, which rendered him the mod powerful fubject in the kingdom. Influenced by thefe marks of goodnefs, the earl of March forgot his fuperior title, ferved his fovereign with unfliaken fidelity, and repeatedly fol- lowed him to the combat at the head of his numerous retainers. He did not long furvive his royal friend and benefactor, but died in the third of Henry the fixth, leaving no iflue by his wife Anne, the daughter of Edmund earl of Stafford. His vaft pofleffions were affigned to his nephew Richard duke of York, fon of his filler Anne, by Richard earl of Cambridge. The caftle of Ufk was a favourite refidence of this defcendant and father of kings ; according to Churchyard *, who is more accurate than poetical, it was diflinguifhed by the births of his two fons, who afterwards became Edward the fourth, and Richard the third -f. On the death of Richard the third, his property, with the caftle of Ufk, came into the pofTefiion of Henry the feventh, in virtue of his marriage with the daugh- ter * " A caftle there, in Uike doth yet remaine, " King Edward the fourth, and his children (as " A feate where kings and princes have been borne : " fome affirme) and King Richard the third, were " It ftands full on a goodly pleafant plaine ; " borne here." " The walls whereof, and towers are all to tome." Churchyard's Worthines of Wales, p. 19. •j- RICHARD DE CLARE, Earl of Glocefter and Lord ofUlk, d. 1 262 =~ Maud,dr. of John de Lacy Earl of Lincoln, 2d wife. Gilbert de Clare, d. i295=Joan of Acre, dr. of Edward 1, by Eleanor of Caftlle, d. 1305. I 1 Maud=Gilbeit, flain at the battle of Bannocksburn, 1314. J onn de Burgh, fon of RicharJ=Elifabeth, 3d dr. Eail of Ulfter, 131 3. William de Burgh, 3d=Maud, dr. of Henry Earl of Uliler, 1333. | Earl of Lancafter. Lionel Duke of Clarence, 1352, fon of==Elifabeth de Burgh, 1363. Edward III. 1368. Edmund Mortimer, 3d Earl of March, and Earl=Philippa of Clarence, Countefs of Ulfter, and heirefs of Ufk. of Ulfter, 1381. Edmund. Sir John, executed 1424. Roger, Earl of March, &c. flain 1 399==Eleanor, dr. of ThomasHolland, Earl of Kent. Edmund, d. 1425— Anne, dr. of E-imund Richard Earl of Cambridge=Anne Mortimer, filler and heirefs of he# £ p. Earl of Stafford. '4'5- brother Edmund. Richard, Duke of York,&c. d. i46o=Cecilia, dr. of Ralph Nevil, Earl of Weftmoreland. Edward IV. 1483. Richard III. 1485. CASTLE OF US K. 131 ter of Edward the fourth. It afterwards belonged to William, firft earl of Fern- broke, of the fecond brarich of the Herbert family Philip, his fourth descen- dant, dying in 1683 without iffue male, his only daughter and heirefs conveyed it to Thomas, vifcount Windfor. The eftates in Monmouthfhire, poffeffed by this fecond branch, were fcarcelv inferior to thofe of the firft earl of Pembroke of the Herbert line. Philip, the laft proprietor of Ufk caftle, could have palled almoft the whole way, through his own manors, from the vicinity of Monmouth to Newton Down, beyond Cow- bridge in Glamorganfhire, a diftance of nearly lixty miles. The truftees of his daughter, in their annual circuit, during her minority, were not unfrequently efcorted by more than fifteen hundred of her tenants and dependants from Chep- ftow to the caftle at Caerdiff, where the accounts were audited and the rents received. Hence fome notion may be formed of the great eftates and influence once pofTelTed by the earls of Pembroke in Monmouthfhire, although they dd not at prefent retain one folitary manor or eftate in the whole county*. The caftle was purchafed from their grandfon Herbert, vifcount Windfor with * From William Jones, efq. ■j- Sir Richard Herbert of Ewyas, i4'>o, fon of =pMargarct, dr. and heirefs of Sir Matthew Cradock, Knight. William Herbert, firil Earl of Pembroke. j I — Anne, fifterand heirefs of William^ I. Sir William, cr. Baron Herbert of Caerdiff, and=-Ann, dr. of Ceorge Earl of Shrcv. fburv, Marquis of Northampton. Earl of Pembroke, 1 55 1, d. 1569. and widow of P. Cumpton, Eiu. 1 Henry, d. 1 6ci.=pMary, third wife, dr. of Sir Henry Sidney. 3. William — Mary, dr. and coheirefs Sufaa dr. of Edward=4. Philip, d. l63o. = Anr.e, dr. and heir of George Earl d. 1630. I of Gilbert Eari of Ear 1 of Oxford. of Cumberland, widow of Richard Shrewlhury. Earl of Dorfet. am 1 1 Henry d. young. Penelope, dr. and heirefs of Sir R. Naunton,=5* Philrp,d. iC69-=Catherine, dr. of Sir Willi and widow of Paul Vifcount Banning. | j Villiers, BarcUit. r — j 1 6. William d. 1674. 7. Philip d. i683.=Heniictta de Querouaillc. 8. Thomas. John Lord Jcffiies, d. I702.=Ch arl ot te, he!iefs=Thomas Vifcount Windfoi and J ofUfkcaftie. I Lord Montjoy, d. 173$ I , 1 . Henrietta, m. Earl of Pomfret. Herbert, who fold U(k"Alice, dr. of Sir John, and eldeft filler caftle, d. 1758. and co- heirefs of Sir James Covering, Baronet. S 2 — — : — ) Charlotte Jane.ra. to John Alice Elizabeth, firft wits Lord Mour.irtewart, of Lord Beauchamp, now Matquis now Marquis of of Bute. Heitfoid. i 3 a CHAPTER 14. with a large contiguous property, at auction, by Valentine Morris of Piercefield, who, unable to pay the depofit, fold it to lord Clive, of whom it was bought by the prefent duke of Beaufort. The church is an ancient edifice, and feems to have been conftructed in the. Anglo Norman asra ; it was originally much larger, and built in the fhape of a cathedral. The fquare embattled tower which now (lands at the eaft end,, occupied the center, and communicated with a tranfept and choir, which no longer exift, but of which traces are vifible on the outfide. The architecture of this tower bears a Norman character, as is evident from its columns and circu- lar arches. The remaining parts have been either rebuilt, or undergone great additions, alterations, and repairs. Four pointed arches feparate the nave from a north aifle ; the windows are ornamented gothic, and the porches, in the fame ftyle of architec- ture, are not inelegant. In the church is a long and narrow brafs plate, formerly chained to the wall,, but now nailed on the top of the partition between two pews, near the chancel, bearing an infcription, of which a fac fimile has been given by Harris, and copied in the late edition of Camden. From an erroneous explanation, it is fup- pofed to be a mixture of Latin and Britim, and has been adduced as a proof of the long refidence of the Romans* in thefe parts.- It has been interpreted by the learned Dr. Wot ton, as an epitaph on a profeffor of aftronomy, and head of a college of two hundred philofophers, whom Geoffrey of Monmouth, and Alexander Elfibienfis, place at Caerleon before the arrival of the Saxons. This illuftration was adopted by the Rev. Theophilus Evans, who never faw the infcription, in a Wellh publication called the Mirror, printed in 1740, and has been followed by all fucceeding writers on the fubject. But the beft judges of the Wellh language^ are decidedly of opinion, that the infcription is wholly Wellh, and written in the dialect of Gwent ufed in the middle ages; it is alfo evident, that there is not the fmalleft reference to Caerleon, and that the letters which Dr. Wotton mif- took for that word, are 'yar lle'yn, and have a very different fignification. As the » Harris, in Archseolcgia, vol. 2. 19. Strange, in Aichseologia, vol. 6. p. 12, CHURCH OF USK. the beft critics in the Welfh language have differed effentially concerning the meaning of the infcription, I, who am totally unacquainted with the language, cannot prefume to give any opinion ; but mall refer the reader to the differ- tation in the appendix. This church belonged to the priory, of which the remains ft ill exifl on the fouth-eaft fide of the tower. A circular arched portal leads from the church- yard through the court, to the ancient edifice, which is now a farm houfe. It was a priory of five benedidline nuns, founded by the earls of Clare, who pof- feffed the caftle. We learn from Tanner, that it was eftablifhed before 1236, and the nuns were accuftomed to pray for fir Richard de Clare, and Gilbert his fon, earls of the Marches, as their founders. According to Dugdale, they were endowed with £. 55. 4.S. 5 d. per annum ; and on the difTolution, the fite was granted to Roger Williams *, of Langibby, grandfather of fir Trevor Williams. It was fold by fome of his defcendants ; belonged to. the late alderman Hay ley j and forms part of his widow's jointure. An apartment on the firft floor is not un- worthy of notice, as the frieze is ornamented with thirty devices, and emblazoned coats of arms ; feveral of which probably belonged to the founders and bene- factors of the priory, or to the proprietors of the caftle. Part of the common prifon, which is fituatcd near the bridge, was formerly an ancient Roman catholic chapel ; the gothic doorway, which formed the fouth- ern entrance, ftill remains ; another gothic doorway to the north is filled up ; the principal vaultings of the roof, with the cornice ornamented with dentels are vifible. At Ufk I had the good fortune to dine in company with the principal gentle- men of the county, who were affembled for the purpofe of procuring a renewal of the turnpike act. They unanimoufly proffered their fervices to forward my refearches, and in the courfe of my tour, I experienced from them great marks of hofpitality, and received many and interefting communications. In the vicinity ofUikare three ancient encampments, Craeg y Gaercyd, Camp- wood, and Coed y Bunedd. Craeg y Gaercyd is mentioned by Harris, as a Roman camp, * Tanner. Seealfo Jones's Index to Records of the Exchequer, vol. i.art. Williams. i U CHAPTER ui camp, merely becaufe fome Roman coins are faid to have been difcovered at Stavernen houfe, an adjacent manfion, but of which I could not difcover any tradition. It is fituated two miles from the town, to the eaft of the Pont y Poo) road, on the brow of a precipice overhanging the right bank of the Ufk; the lite is overgrown with thickets and brambles, and the entrenchments are in many places thirty feet deep ; at the north-weftern fide are feveral tumuli, fome of which are from 15 to 20 feet in height. The fliape does not in the leail indicate a Roman character; it may have been either a Britifli fortrefs, or an en- trenchment thrown up, during fome of the repeated aflaults, to which the caftie of Ufk was fubjeft, in feudal times. In vifiting this encampment, I pafled the fmall torrent called Berddin, from which fome writers have derived the name of Burrium, as being placed at its confluence with the Ufk. The two other camps are on the oppofite fide of the river, to the eaft of the high road leading from Ufk to Abergavenny. Campwood, two miles from the town, above the wild and fequefbered common of Gvvhelvvg, is of an oval fhape, enclofed by a fingle ditch, and comprehending a circumference of 700 yards ; it is wholly overgrown with wood, from which circumftance it derives its appel- lation. The encampment of Coedy Bunedd is formed on the fummit of a commanding eminence, at the extremity of the Clytha hills, about four miles from Ufk, and to the weft of the turnpike road leading to Abergavenny ; it is a fmall camp of 480 yards in circumference within the ramparts, but of confiderable ftrength. The weftern and northern fides being precipitous, are bounded by a fingle entrench- ment ; the -other fides are fortified with triple ditches and ramparts. The en- trance is covered by a tumulus, which rendered the accefs extremely difficult, and appears to have been fortified at each extremity with towers, of which the foundations ftill remain. It was originally ftrengthened with walls, and many of the ftones lie fcattered on the fides and tops of the ramparts. The form of the area inclofcd by the inner entrenchment may be eafily traced, as it is without a fingle tree; 't follows the nature of the ground, and nearly rc- fembles the fliape of a D ; a circumftance very common in the encampments of Monmouthfliire. v frlirtinifiiryn Trice del • . ■ „ , ANCIENT ENCAMPMENTS. 135 Monmouthfliire. Juft beyond its northern extremity, nearly on the verge of the eminence, is a tuft of trees, which is a confpicuous and beautiful object from the fubjacent country. The weftern fide overhangs the meandering Ufk, and commands a beautiful view of the northern parts of the county, which will amply repay the traveller for the trouble of afcending the fummit. It is mod admirably calculated for an exploratory camp, and was connected by roads on one fide with the poll of Campwood, and on the other, over a ford of the Ulk, near Kemeys commander, with Craeg y Gaercyd. The character is Britilh, but the ftrait roads, exhibiting veftiges of paved caufe- ways, diverging from it in all directions, favour a conjecture, that it was once oc- cupied by the Romans. KEEP OF VSK CASTLE E ] CHAPTER I.5. Raglan Cafile. — Hijiory. — Proprietors. — Anecdotes of William Herbert Earl of Pem- broke, of Sir Charles Somerfet firjl Earl, and of Henry firjl Marquis, of Worcejler. Siege, Surrender, and Demolition of the Cafile. — Church. — Cemetery. — Character of Edward Earl of Glamorgan and fecond Marquis of Worcejler. RAGLAN caftle is a principal objed in the tour of Monmouthmrre ; it is fituated nearly in the center of the lowland part of the county, and may be vifited with the fame -cafe from Chepftow, Monmouth, Abergavenny and Ufk. During my fucceflive journies, I made feveral excurfions to it from different quarters, but found the route from Chepftow, over the ridge of the Devaudon, more interefting, and abounding with a greater variety of extenfive and beautiful views. The caftle ftands on a gentle eminence near the village. At fome diftance, the ruins appeared only a heavy fhapelefs mafs, half hid by the intervening trees; on a nearer approach, they aflumed a more diftind form, and prefented an affera- blage highly beautiful and grand. Thefe majeftic ruins, including the citadel, occupy a trad of ground, not lefs than one third of a mile in circumference. The citadel, a detached building to the fouth of the caftle, is at prefent half demolished, but was a large hexagon defended by baftions, furrounded with a moat, and conne&ed with the caftle by means of a drawbridge ; it was called Melyn y Gwent, or the yellow tower of Gwent, and when entire was five ftories high. A ftone ftaircafe leads to the top of a remaining tower, from whence we looked down on the outworks, and majeftic ruins of the caftle, and enjoyed a fine profpedof an extenfive trad of country, bounded by the diftant hills and mountain? RAGLAN CASTLE. 137 mountains in the neighbourhood of Abergavenny. The citadel was furrounded withraifed walks ; in the walls with which they were bounded, are the veftiges of niches, once ornamented with ftatues of the Roman emperors. The (hell of the caftle inclofes two courts or areas, each of which communi- cated with the terrace, by means of a gateway, and a bridge carried over the moat. The edifice was faced with hewn freeftone, which has received little injury from time, and gives a light and elegant appearance to the ruins ; it is of a whitiih grey colour, beautifully grained, and as fmooth as if it had been polithed. Of thefe noble ruins, the grand entrance is the mod magnificent ; it is formed by a gothic portal, flanked with two maffive towers ; the one beautifully tufted with ivy, the fecond fo entirely covered, that not a fingle ftone is vifible. At a fmall diftance on the right appears a third tower, lower in height, almoft wholly ivilefs, and with its machicolated fummit, prefenting a highly pi&urefque appearance. The porch, which (till contains the grooves for two portcullifles, leads into the firft court, once paved, but now covered with turf, and fprinkled with fhrubs. The eaftern and northern fides contained a range of culinary of- fices, of which the kitchen is remarkable for the fize of the fireplace ; the fouthern fide feems to have formed a grand fuite of apartments, and the great bow window of the hall, at the fouth-weflern extremity of the court, is finely canopied with ivy. The ftately hall which divides the two courts, and feems to have been built in the days of queen Elifabeth, contains the veftiges of ancient hofpitality and fplendour ; the ceiling is fallen down, but the walls flill remain ; it is lixty feet in length, twenty-feven in breadth, and was the great banqueting room of the caftle. At the extremity are placed the arms of the firft marquis of Wor- cefter, fculptured in ftone, and furrounded with the garter ; underneath is the family motto, which fully marks the character of the noble proprietor, who de- fended the caftle with fuch fpirit againft the parliamentary army : " Mutare vel timere fperno " I fcorn either to change or fear." The fireplace deferves to be noticed, for its remarkable fize, and the Angular ftrufture of the chimney. This hall is occafionally ufed as a five's court. To the north of the hall are ranges of offices, which appear to have been T butteries ; r 3 8 CHAPTER i$. butteries ; beyond are the traces of fplendid apartments. In the walls above, I obferved two chimney-pieces, in high prefervation, neatly ornamented with a light frieze and cornice : the (tone frames of the windows are likewife in many parts, particularly in the fouth front, diftinguifhed with mouldings and other decora- tions, which, Mr. Wyndham juftly obferves, would not be confidered as inelegant, even at prefent. The weftern door of the hall led into the chapel, which is now dilapidated j but its fituation is marked by fome of the flying columns, rifing from grotefque heads, which fupported the roof ; at the upper end are two rude whole length figures, in ftone, feveral yards above the ground, recently difcovered by Mr. Heath * under the thick clufters of ivy. Beyond the foundations of the chapel is the area of the fecond court, lkirted with a range of buildings, which, at the time of the fiege, formed the barracks of the garrifon. Not the fmalleft traces remain of the marble fountain, which once occupied the center of the area, and was ornamented with the ftatue of a white horfe. Moft of the apartments of this fplendid abode were of grand dimenfions, and the communications eafy and convenient. The ftrength of the walls is ftill fo great, that if the parts yet ftanding were roofed and floored, it might even now be formed into a magnificent and commodious habitation. The ground-plan and views, which accompany this chapter, render it unne- ceflary to enter into a minute defcription of thefe extentive ruins ; I {haH therefore only obferve, that the immenfe expence and labour of erecting this enormous pile, are no lefs evident, from the large vaults and fubterraneous cells, which are formed under the hall, courts, and furrounding apartments, than from the majeftic remains which tower above ground. From the fecond court, a bridge thrown acrofs the moat leads to the platform, or terrace, which almoft furrounds the citadel, and was much admired by king Charles the firft j the fouth-weftern fide is ftill perfect, and forms a noble walk of • Heath's Account of Raglan Caftle, p. 71. Mr. am indebted for feveral anecdotes recorded in this Heath, bookfeller off Monmouth, has collected in this chapter, from the Apothegms of the marquis of publication fome curious documents concerning the Worcefter. caftk of Raglan and the Beaufort family, to which I RAGLAN CASTLE. 139 of 60 feet in breadth, and 300 in length, commanding a pleating and extenfive view. At one extremity ftands an ancient elm, which appears almoft co- eval with the earlieft foundation of the cattle ; the trunk near the root is 28 feet 5 inches in circumference ; there feems to have been a row of thefe vene- rable elms, for at a fmall diftance is another very old, but of inferior fize. The outworks, which were formed for the defence of the caflle, before the fiege, Were too extenfive for the garrifon ; their (hape and dimenfions may be traced by the remains of baftions, hornworks, trenches, and ramparts, which ftill exift, and are laid down in the plan. Churchyard, in his quaint verification, defcribes the fumptuous appearance of the caftle in the reign of queen Elifabeth *, and a curious account of its ftate, not long before the fiege, is in the poffeffion of the Rev. Mr. Jones of Piftill : it is partly printed in the Hiftory of Monmouthfhire, and in Heath's Account of Raglan Caftle. Raglan caftle is more modern than all the other caftles in Monmouthfhire. If any parts of the old caftellated manfion, which exifted in the time of fir John Morley, or his predeceffbrs, ftill remain in the prefent ftructure, they have been fo much altered, and adapted to the fubfequent improvements, as not to be eafily difcriminated. The earlieft ftyle perceivable in the building is not anterior to the reign of Henry the fifth, and the more modern, as late as the sera of Charles the firft ; the fafhion of the arches, doors, and windows, and the ftyle of the or- naments, are progreffively of the intermediate ages. We may therefore afcribe its conftrudion principally to fir William ap Thomas, and his fon the earl of Pem- broke ; parts were fince added by the earls of Worcefter, and the citadel and outworks were probably ere&ed by the gallant marquis, who laft refided in this fumptuous manfion. The great extent of the caftle, the grandeur and number of the apartments, and the fize of the offices and cellars, ■ give proofs of baronial magnificence and fplendid * « Not farre from thence, a famous caftle fine, « The curious knots, wrought all with edged toole, « That Raggland hight, ftands moted almoft round j " The ftately tower, that looks ore pond and poole, « Made of freeftone, upright as ftraight as line, « The fountain trim, that runs both day and night, «< Whofe workmanfhip in beautie doth abound. " Doth yield in ftiowe, a rare and noble fight." The VVorthines of Wales, p. 6. T 2 I4 o CHAPTER 15. fplendid hofpitality, fcarcely conceivable in the prefent times. The grand efta- blifliment of the firft marquis of Worcefler is recorded in the above mentioned account of Raglan caflle ; the numerous officers of his houfhold, retainers, attend- ants, and fervants, appear like the retinue of a fovereign rather than a fubjecT. He fupported, for a confiderable time, a garrifon of eight hundred men ; and on the furrender of the cafhle, befides his own family and friends, the officers alone were no lefs than four colonels, eighty-two captains, fixteen lieutenants, fix cornets, four enfigns, and four quartermafters, befides fifty-two efquires and gentlemen. The demefnes of the caflle correfponded with the magnitude of the eflablifli- ment ; befides the gardens and pleafure-grounds adjoining to the manfion, the farms were numerous and well conditioned; the meadows around Landenny were appropriated for the dairy; an extenfive tract of land, clothed with oak and beech, formed the home park, and the red deer park ftretched beyond Landeilo Crefleney. In the thirteenth century, the great family of Clare feem to have pofTefled a caftle at Raglan. According to Dugdale, Richard Strongbow, the lafl male of this puifiant line, gave, in the reign of Henry the fecond, the caflle and manor of Raglan, in the county of Monmouth, to Walter B-loet, whofe defcendant Elifabeth, fole daughter and heir of fir John Bloet, brought it to fir James Berkley; to this fir James Berkeley and to his wife, Henry the fourth, in 1399, confirmed the town and caflle of Raglan * ; and on his death, in 1405, they came byintail to his fon James lord Berkley, who died in 1463. Such is the account given by Dugdale in one part of his baronage, from documents preferved in the caflle of Berkley. In another paflage of the fame work, he afferts, on the authority of papers, in the pofleffion of lord Herbert of Cherbury, that fir John Morley, knight, who lived in the reign of Richard the fecond, refided in this caflle, and that his daughter and heirefs conveyed it, by marriage, into the family of Herbert -f-. Without * Art. Berkley. " To this fir James and Elifabeth, " had given to Walter Blewit, his anceftor, and his «• king Henry the fourth, in the firft year of his reign, " heirs. Temp. H. 2." Dugdale's Baronage, vol. i. p, " confirmed the town and caftle of Raglan in Com. 361. See alio Collins's Peerage, art. Berkley. *' Monmouth, which earl Richard, fon to earl Gilbert, f Art. Lord Herbert of Cherbury. INSIDE VIEW OF RAGLAN CASTLE . r, ■MxTieaMvcAuSp" iy Caded ScJimies. Stnmd ■ (To fact p. 141;. PROPRIETORS OF RAGLAN CASTLE. Sir JOHN MORLEV, Knt. temp. Rio II. Thomas ap Gwillim ap Jenkin,= Maud, cohcirefs*. alias Heibert, d. J438. Sir William ap Thomns,— Gladys, dr. of Sir David Gam, widow of 4th fon, refided at Ra tt lan Caftle, I Sir Roger Vaughan, temp. Hen. V. and VI. William Herbert,r=Anne, fitter of Sir Waiter Devcreux, Knt. Earl of Pembroke, beh. at Banbury 1469- j William, =Maiy, filler and coheir to Richard Widville, Earl River> furrendered the earldom of Pembroke, cr. Earl of Huntingdon, 1479. lft wife, ELlSABKTH,r=Sir Charles Somerfet, Baron Herbert of Cheprtow, Raglan heirefsof Raglan, d. 1400. j and Gower, jure uxoris. lit Earl of Worcefter, d. 1516. Henry, =Elifabcth, dr. of Sir Anthony Brown, Knt. d. J5S5. 2d E2rl, d. ^54g. j William, =Chriftian, dr. of Edward Lord North. 3d Earl, d. i 5 8S. O. S. | Edward, =nElifabech, dr. of Francis Hafiings Earl of Huntingdon^ 4th Earl, d. 1627. I d. 1621. I 1 William Lord Herbert, ob. V..P. Henry,=r Anne, fole dr. and heirefs of John Lord Ruffel, lft Marquis of Worcefter, d. 1G46. j fon of Francis Earl of Bedford, d. 1 639. I lft. Elifabeth,;=- ... - Edward ----- -=z=2d. Margaret, dr. of Henry O' brien dr. ef Sir William Dormer, eldeft On of I 2d M. and Earl of Glamorgan, Earl of Thomond, d. j68i. Robert Lord Dormer of Weng, d. 1665. I d. 1667. I 1 Henry,=Mary, dr. of Arthur Lord Capel, and widow of Henry lft Duke of Beaufort, d. 1699. j Seymour Lord Beauchamp, d. 1714. I 1 Henry, . Charles = Rebecca, dr. of Sir Jofiah Child of Wanftcd, co. Efll-x, Bart, d. young, ob. V. P. 1698. I d. 1712. I lft. Mary only dr. of Charlcsr^ Henry == 2d. Rachel, dr. and cohcirefs of^rjd. Mary, dr. of Peregrine Of- Wiiothefby Bapt; it Noel, Earl borne, M" fouth wall of his own chapel, adjoining to the chancel of the parim church of " Raglan afore faid ; upon which were placed the portraitures of this earl Edward " (in the habit of the order) and his countefs, with thirteen of their children. " But the fame hammer of rebellion which defaced earl William's tomb, broke " in pieces the fepulchre alfo of this Edward, earl of Worcefter ; when the par- " liament foldiers, being feized of the church, were as revengeful in deftroying the " monuments of the dead father and grandfather, as the living fon Henry, the " firft marquis of Worcefter, was loyal and refolved in defending againft them " his caftle of Raglan*." Two headlefs and mutilated alabafter figures, of a man with a collar of the garter, and of a woman, fome irons from which the banners were fufpended, an ancient helmet, and a portcullis, the creft of the Beaufort family, are almoft the only remains of this fplendid monument. The third, whofe afhes repofe in this church, Is Edward, fixth earl and fecond marquis of W orcefter ; a perfonage remarkable in the hiftory of the times. In addition to his hereditary titles, he was created earl of Glamorgan -f, under which name he is principally known, on account of his extraordinary million in Ireland for the purpofe of fettling a treaty with the Roman catholics, and leading an army to the afiiftance of Charles the firft. The unlimited confidence repofed in him, and the full powers with which he was entrufted, are proved by a fecret commiffion dated 1 644, the moft extraordinary ever granted by a fovereign to a fubjecl: : he was appointed generaliffimo of three armies, and admiral, with the nomination of the officers ; he was empowered to raife money, by the fale of the * Sandford, p. 349. thefe titles are mentioned in the commiflion granted f It has been aflerted, that he was alfo created by king Charles the firft, but are not enumerated in baron Beaufort of Caldecot and Grifmount ; and the infeription placed on his coffin. EDWARD 2M?ofWORCES TER &EARL of GLAMORGAN /'///>// ///,-,/ /?///? I /.sou />// CtuMt t- /Mvifi Straiul RAGLAN C H U R C H. 151 the regal rights and prerogatives ; to create, by blank patents, all titles from a baronet to a marquis ; and he received the order of the garter, with the reverfion of the dukedom of Somerfet. In addition to thefe honours, the princefs Elifabeth was promifed to his fon in marriage, with a portion of ^.300,000, which the king acknowledged to have been expended, by him and the marquis his father, in the royal fervice*. The character of Glamorgan was ill calculated to conduct an enterprife of fuch extreme delicacy, fo as not to excite the jealoufy of the marquis of Or- mond, lord lieutenant, lord Digby, fecretary of ftate, and the other proteftant minifters of the Irifh government. He pofTefTed many excellent qualities both of the head and heart ; he was loyal, fmcere, a£tive, brave, of elegant manners, and conciliating addrefs ; but he was ardent, impetuous, bigoted, indifcreet, vain. His fanguine imagination over-rated his own powers, and his fanatic zeal for the Roman catholic religion, roufed the indignation of the king's proteftant coun- fellors. By his unbounded conceffions, and lavifh grants to the papifts, he con- cluded a peace, and obtained a body of ten thoufand men 5. but the articles of this treaty being accidentally difcovered, created a general outcry : he was arrefted by Ormond and Digby, and charged with high treafon, for acting without the king's authority. Copies of the articles, and his intercepted correfpondence, being tranfmitted to England, the king, in a menage to parliament, folemnly clifavowed the conduct of Glamorgan, and declared that he had no commifiion to treat with the catholics without the privity and direction of the lord lieutenant. This public difavowal, however, did not allay the general fufpicions of the king's infincerity, which were heightened by the fubfequent liberation and em- ployment of Glamorgan to haften the conclusion of the treaty between Ormond and the catholics. Unfortunately,, however, the vanity and indifcretion of Glamorgan, the too cautious proceedings of Ormond, the inflexible oppofition of Digby, and the in- tractable temper of the pope's nuncio,, delayed the embarkation of the troops, until the unfavourable ftate of the king's affairs prevented their co-operation. Although volumes have been written on this fubjeft, yet the my fiery which in- volves * A copy of this commiflionis given in Collins's Peerage, vol. i. p. 2o5. 8 i JZ CHAPTER 15. volves the conduct of the king and Glamorgan during this whole tranfa&ion, has never been fufficiently unfolded. The iffue was no lefs unfuccefsful than degrad- ing ; and no event, in the whole reign of Charles the firft, gave deeper concern to his confeicntious adherents, or greater triumph to his enemies. Clarendon, in particular, was fo much affected with this myfterious bufinefs, that he makes no mention of it in the Hiltory of the Rebellion, but in a private letter to fecretary Nicholas, cenfures it in the ftrongeft terms of concern and dif- approbation : " I care not how little I fay in that bufinefs of Ireland, fmce thofe ftrange powers and inftru&ions given to your favourite Glamorgan, which appear to me inexcufablc to juftice, piety, and prudence. Oh ! Mr. Secretary, thofe ftratagems have given me more fad hours than all the misfortunes which have befallen the king * " From this period, the name of Glamorgan fcarcely occurs in the hiflory of the times. On the death of his gallant father, he aflumcd the title of marquis of Worcefter, but did not fucceed to his eftates, which were confifcated, and granted in part to Oliver Cromwell. On the annihilation of the royal party, he followed the fortunes of Charles the fecond, and became a refugee at the court of France. Being difpatched, in 1652, into England, by the exiled king, for the purpofe of procuring private intelligence and fupplies, he was difcovered, and imprifoned in the tower ; where, as Kennett obferves, " he was threatened with a fpeedy trial, and worfe puniflied by a long confinement I cannot afcertain the period of his confinement, or the time of his liberation ; from a letter, which he wrote in December 1656 to fecretary Thurloe |, it appears, * Clarendon's State Papers, vol. 2. p. 337. quoted mine delivered by my owne hands to Mr. Owag, and in Granger's Biographical Hiftory. as he tould me, by him to your honour, I cannot gett f Hiltory of England, vol. 3. p. 188. a time affigned me to wayte upon you. I here fende J Marquis of Worcefter to Secretary Thurloe. you a true coppy of Don Alonzo his anfweare to me, Right Honourable, December 18,1656. and do allure you, that I have in readineiTe a perfon, I doe confefle, that the oukl faying is, that prof- -whom you yourfelf will confefTe Don Alonzo cannot terrcd fervice is not valued, in that refpect I wonder except againft: foe that there only reftethneedfull your not to have my endeavours foe little fett by. In a approbation; when your honour fhall have reade this vord, I am veiy well pleafed to acquicfle, if Ids high- and the coppys of the Don's letter, I have entreated nolle or your honour thinke me worthy of one quarter and enjoyned Mr. Noell to bring them me backe, and of an hour's audience; yet I mull needes fay, that in his prefence I will burn them, and remain lilent for if .efteemed of, I am able to doe his highneffe more the future in any thing of this nature, but in all fervice than any one fubjedt of his three nations ; and things els, your honour's moll affectionate friend though after a meffage by Mr. Noell, ,and a letter of and humble fervant.— Worcefter. RAGLAN CHURCH. 153 appears, that he requefled an audience of Cromwell, and offered to make ditcove- ries of great importance ; but his advances were at firft flighted. Afterwards, however, his overtures feem to have been favourably received, and his fon, at lead, enjoyed the confidence and protection of Oliver Cromwell, was gratified with apartments at Whitehall, and a penfion of £.2000 per annum*-. His conduct towards Cromwell did not offend the king : on the reftoration he was re-inflated in his hereditary poffeffions, and treated with high marks of regard and confidence. He does not appear to have interfered in the poli- tical tranfactions of the times, but devoted himfelf wholly to literary purfuits ; in 1663 he publifhed a " Century of the Names and Scantlings of fuch In- ventions as I can at prefent call to mind to have tried and perfected." A lingular contrariety of opinion has been formed of his literary Character. The late earl of Orford calls the noble author a fantaftic man, and cenfures his work as an amazing piece of folly, " being a lift of a hundred projects, mod of them impoflibilities : " Granger, on the contrary, is warm in its praife ; and on the authority of an excellent judge, confiders the author as one of the greatefl me- chanical geniufes that ever appeared in the world. We may juflly incline to the opinion of Granger, mould the invention of the fleam engine -f- have owed its rife * " About this time, the lord Herbert, being bred water by fire, not bydrawing or fucking it upwards, *' a Papift, and lent into Fi ance, came over and made for that mull be, as the Philofopher calleth it, intrA u his court to Oliver Cromwell, but was firft advifed fpha.ram aSirvitatis, which is but at fuch a diftance. " to (hew himfelf in Whitehall chapel, that he was But this way hath no bounder, if the velfels beftrong " conformable to the religion then in fafhion, and enough, for I have taken a piece of a whole cannon " then was introduced, by colonel Philip Jones, tokifs whereof the end was burft, and filled it three quarters " the Protestor's hand, who afterwards became his full of water, flopping and Ikruing up the broken " convert, and a great favourite; had £. 2000. per end, as alfo the touch-hole, and making a conftant " annum given him, and lodgings affigned him at fire under it, within twenty-foUr hours it burft, and " Whitehall." Secret Memoirs of Monmouthlhire. made a great crack ; fo that having a way to make my App. p. 105. veffels fo that they are ftrengthened by the force f It appears, from a paflage in the Experimental within them, and the one to fill after the other, I Philofophy of Dr. Defaguliers, that captain Savary have feen the water run like a conftant fountain derived this invention of the fire engine, fince called ftream forty feet high; one veftel of water, rarified by the fteam engine, from the fixty-eighth article in the fire, driveth up forty of cold water. And a man that Century of Scantlings ; "and that to conceal his ori- tends the work is but to turn two cocks, that one ginal, he bought up all the Marquis's books and veflel of water being confumed, another begins to burnt them." force and re-fill with cold water, and fo fuccelfively, * An admirable and moft forcible way to drive up the fire being tended and kept conftant, which the felf- X I54 CHAPTER i 5 , rife to this " Century of Scantlings an invention which alone would entitle the author to immortality *." He died in 1667 s his body was conveyed with funeral folemnity from London, and interred in the vault under the chapel. According to Sandford, who attended the burial, a brafs plate, containing a firnple Latin inscription,, was placed on his coffin-}-. fHf-fame perfon may likewife abundantly perform in the interim between the neceffity of turning the faid cocks." On account of the number of copies deltroyed by captain Savary, this curious work is extremely rare. It is given in the eighteenth volume of the Gentle- man's Magazine. * See Walpole's Royal and Noble Authors, art. Edward Scmerfet marquis of V/orcefter. Granger's Biographical Hiftory of England, vol.. 3. p. 19, f " Depofitum I!!uftrii7imi Principis Edwardi Mar- " chionis & Comitis Wigorniae, Comitis de Gla- " morgan, Baronis Herbert de Raglan, Chepltow & " Gower, nec non fereniiTimo nuper Domino Regi " Carolo primo, Southwalliae locum tenentis : qui " obiit apud Lond. tertio die Aprilis, An. Dom. « M,DC,LXVU." Genealogical Hiftory, p. 358, . [ "55 ] CHAPTER l6. Lanfanfraed Houfe and Church. — Pant y Goitre. — Clytha Hottfe and Cajlle. — Lanarth Court. — Troftrey Forge. — Kemeys Commander. — Trojlrcy Houfc and Church. — Bettus Newydd. |^ R O M Raglan I paffed through a rich and undulating country, abounding in picturefque views, to Lanfanfraed, the refidence of James Greene, efq. member for Arundel. This place is remarkable in the hiftory of Monmouthfhire, as the ancient feat of Thomas ap Gwillim, from whom the earls of Pembroke, Powis, and Caernarvon, are defcended by the male, and the dukes of Beaufort by the female line. His father was lord of Werndee ; he himfclf was originally feated at Perthir, near Monmouth ; but pofieiTed Lanfanfraed in the reign of Richard the fecond, and dying in 1438, was buried in the church. He feems to have acquired Lanfanfraed by his marriage with Maud, daughter of fir John Morley, knight, lord of Raglan caftle. Lanfanfraed was molt probably con- fidered as the principal place of refidence, for it was inherited by his eldeft fon and heir, Philip ap Thomas, and Raglan caftle defcended to the fecond fon, fir William ap Thomas, father of the earl of Pembroke. Philip ap Thomas ■dying in 1460, Lanfanfraed pafled to his defcendants ; on the extinction of the male line, was conveyed by Sufan, fole furviving daughter and heirefs of Henry Jones, to her hufband, George Rickards, efq. of Bredon's Norton, in the county of Worcefter, and is now the property of their fon John Rickards, efq. A fmall part only of the original ft ru ecu re now remains ; the manfion X 2 beino- i;6 CHAPTER 16. being converted, from a farm houfe, by Mr. Greene, the prefent tenant, into a comfortable habitation. The view from the lawn before the houfe, which harmo- nifes with the adjacent country, is extremely pleating : it commands an undulating tract, rifing from the banks of the Ufk, bounded by a femicircular chain of fertile eminences, and backed by hills and mountains. To the fouth-weft appears Cly- tha caftle, a picturefque object, on the Hope of an eminence, fwelling from the- banks of the Ufk, and crowned by the Coed y E,unedd ; from thence, a lower ridge gradually defcends towards the vale, and terminates in a rich knoll of wood at Pant y Goetre. To the north-weft appears the magnificent Blorenge ; on thf north the elegant cone of the Sugar Loaf towers above the fw.ell of the little Skyrrid, and to the eaft rifes the abrupt ridge of the great Skyrrid,. Lanfanfraed houfe is fituated five miles and a half from Abergavenny, ten from Monmouth, four from Raglan, and feven from Ulk ; and its central pofition renders it extremely convenient for the purpofe of exploring the county. Un- acquainted with a fingle gentleman, when I firft entered the county, I was intro- duced to Mr. Greene, by my friend fir Richard Hoare ; his hofpitable manfion was open to me at all times and on all occafions, without form or ceremony ; I was left at full liberty to make exenrfions as ray fancy or inclination fuggefted, and on my return, after the fatigues of the day, I enjoyed the comforts of an agreeable fociety. In this delightful refidence, I firft conceived the plan of writing a tour in Monmouthfhire ; Mr. Greene zealoufly encouraged and affifted me in the profe- cution of the work ; through his introduction, I became acquainted with the principal gentlemen and men of letters, and obtained accefs to various documents, and interefting papers. The church of Lanfanfraed is very ancient, a circumftance fufficiently evident, from the fimplicity of its form, which is like a barn, with a fmall belfry, contain- ing two bells, the ropes defcending into the church. It has been lately repaired by Mr. Rickards, the patron of the living,, and is much neater than many of the parifh churches in Monmouthfhire. • On the north wall of the nave is a curious fepulchral infeription, of which an exact tranfeript is here given, as well becaufe it ferves to illuftrate the pedigree of LANSANF11AED C H UK C 1 1. 157 of the Herbert family, as becaufe inaccurate copies of it have been presented to- the public. NERE THIS PLACE LY ENTERR^D THESE DEAD BODIES VNDERNAM5D THOM :GLM: IENK : ESQJ 0 IVL : 1458 & MAVD HIS WIFE DA' TO S R : 10FN MOR LEY KNIGHT & HIS COHi: PHIL : TIE RE SONE & B2IRE 9°: NO: 14 6o & IOHAN HIS WIFE, DA & fEIRE OF THO: BLETHIN OF PENTRE, ESQ.7 0 : IVN: 14,58 : DAVID TH5RE SONE & HiIRE 1 9 0 : DE : 1 5 10: KATEE: HIS WIFE DA :TO S R : ROGER VAH= AN KNIGHT 26: MAR: 1520: THOM: TFERE SONE & HiIRE 3°: APR: 1537: 8 IANEHIS WIFE: DA: TO IOHN THO OF TRE OWEN ESQ.: i 3 °:AVG: 1533: IOHN. TILRE SONE AND HiIRE 30 0 : MAK: 1553 : BVT GWEN HIS WIFE DA: TO EDWA: IONES OF ABERGA: GEN: WAS BVRVIED IN HER BROTHER ED WARS SEPVLCHiR ON THi NORTHE SIDE OF THE HIGHE ALTAR IN SAINT MARIES THERE: 23: SEP: 1597: WATER TBEIRE SONi AND HiIRE 17 0 : AP t: 1606 AND LETTIS HIS WIFE DA: OF IOHN WILLMS, OF NEWPO :.GEN : 19" IAN : 1623. FOR AN ETERNAL TOKEN OF RESPECT TO YOV MY SIRES, THiSE STONES I DOE ERECT; YOVR WORTHY BONES DESERV OF ME IN BRASS; 14 SEP.: A RARER TOMBE THEN STATELY HATTON HAS : BVT SITHi MY MLNSS NO PART OF SVCII AFOORDS INSTEDE THEREOF ACCEPT THIS TOM OF WORDS. 1624. In the vicinity of Lanfanfraed are feveral country feats, which form an agreeable neighbourhood, and add to the beauty of the furrounding fcenery, by the improved ftate of cultivation, and the richnefs of their groves and plantations. Pant y Goitre, the feat of Dr. Hooper, occupies a beautiful fpot on the oppofite bank of the. Ufk ; it is furrounded with rich meadows, and backed by hanging groves of oak, and other timber trees. The walks on the fide of the river are delightful, and the views from the well- wooded knoll, which overfhadows the houfe, are equally pleafing, grand, and diversified ; prefenting the aflemblage of wood, water, vales, hills, and mountains, in different points of view from thofe which had hitherto arrefted my attention. I parTed fome agreeable days at Clytha Houfe, the feat of William Jones, efq, uncle of Mr. Jones of Lanarth, which is fituated at the junction of the \J{k and Monmouth roads. A beautiful gothic gateway (of which an engraving is an- nexed) 15 S CHAPTER 16. nexed) leads to the home, which is a comfortable and commodious manfion. Mr. Jones has confiderably improved the grounds by plantations, and dif- played his tafte, as well as his affection to the- memory of a beloved wife, by building Clytha Caflle, which is an ornament to his refidence, and to the fur- rounding country. The motives which gave rife to the conftruction of this elegant edifice, are well difplayed in the infcription : " This building was erected in the year 1790, by William Jones of Clytha Houfe, Efqj Fourth Son of John Jones, of Lanarth Court, Monmouthfhire, Efq; and Hutband to Elizabeth, the laft furviving Child of Sir William Morgan of Tredegar, K. B. and Grand-daughter of The moft noble William, Second Duke of Devonlliire. It was undertaken for the Purpofe of relieving a Mind Sincerely afflicted, by the Lofs of a moft excellent Wife , Whole Remains were depofited in Lanarth Church Yard*, A. D. 1787, and to the Memory of whofe Virtues This Tablet is dedicated. The caftle is built on the brow of an eminence mantled with wood, and at the abrupt termination of the chain of hills, which bounds the fouthern extremity of the vale of the Ufk. It commands a view of a fertile and well-wooded region, (welling from the finuous banks of the river, into gentle undulations, and gra- dually expanding into hills and mountains ; among thefe, the Skyrrid, the Sugar Loaf, and the Blorenge, are moft conlpicuous and contrafted. From this point of view, the beauty of the landfcape is heightened by numerous churches, differing in fhape and colour, rifing amid tufts of trees, or overhanging the banks of the Ufk. There * The infcription to her memory, written by Mr. Jones, and placed in the chancel of the church of Lanarth, is inferted in the Appendix. LAN ART II COURT. 159 There are profpects far more extenfive but few fo pleafing : nature has placed the hills and mountains at fuch fortunate diftanccs from this point of view, that the eye is loft in the endlefs variety of the bewitching fcenery, and knows not on wha,t object to reft. On ceafing to contemplate this delightful profpecl:, I did not retire from the building without fympathifmg with the regret, and applauding the gratitude, afFecTion, and tafte of the owner. Lanarth Court, the feat of John Jones, efq. ftands not far from the Abejgavenny road, and about a mile and a half from Lanfanfraed. According to the moft authentic documents, Mr. Jones is lineally defcended from Henry Fitz Herbert, chamberlain to king Henry the firft, the common anceftor of the illuftrious family of the Herberts. It appears from an ancient pedigree, in the poffefTion of William Jones, efq. of Clytha Houfe, that Howel, fon of Gwillim, lord of Werndee, was feated at Treowen, near Monmouth, and that his grandfon David, following the ftandard of his coufin, the earl of Pembroke,, was flain at the battle of Banbury, fighting for the white rofe. In the reign of Henry the eighth, his defcendant, William apjohn, firft adopted the Engiifh cuftom of affuming a fixed furname ; and John was foftened into Jones, which has fince been retained by this branch of the family. His great grandfon, fir Philip Jones, knight, was a warm advocate for the caufe of roy- alty : he was lieutenant colonel of the troops raifed in Monmouthfhire for the fupport of Charles the firft, and was engaged in the defence of Raglan caftle, when it furrendered to Fairfax. Soon after the reftoration, William, fon of Sir Philip Jones, transferred the refidence from Treowen to Lanarth Court, which has fince continued to be the principal feat of the family. The ancient manfion of Lanarth Court was pulled down by the prefent pro- prietor, and a handfome houfe built on its fite : the front is ornamented with an elegant portico, refembling that of the temple of Pseftum ; it ftands on a gentle rife, and has the peculiarity of commanding a view wholly different from the general afpect of the fcenery in this part of Monmouthfhire. In a country abounding in hills and mountains, not a fingle hill or mountain is feen from the * front C H A P T E R 16. front of the houfe j a circumflance which pleafed rather than disappointed me ; the eye, long fatiated with extenfive and mountainous profpedls, repofes with fatisfa&ion on a quiet and retired vale. The view, however, would be rendered ftill more delightful, if the gentle eminences which rife in front of the houfe were enriched with judicious and ornamental plantations. In company with Mr. Rickards, proprietor of Lanfanfraed, I made an ex- curfion from Clytha houfe. We walked to the banks of the Ufk, nearly oppofite to the church of Lanvair Kilgeden, which is Angularly pi&urefque, from its foli- tary fituation in the midft of fields, at a diftance from any houfe, and furrounded by venerable yews. Here the river, which had hitherto flowed in a finuous courfe, is interrupted by the Clytha hills, turns at right angles, and runs in a ftrait direction under the precipitous and woody ridge on which the caftle is fituated. We defcended in a boat to Troftrey forge, and difembarked at a weir, where I took an opportunity of examining its Structure, and obferved the method of catching falmon. An embankment of flakes and ftones, is thrown diagonally acrofs the river, between two and three hundred yards in length : in the middle of the weir is a vacancy, provided with an iron grate, through which a confiderable body of the river rufhes with great impetuoiity. At the lower part of the weir, on one fide of this dream, is a large wooden box, perforated with holes, to admit the water and air, with an aperture, to which is affixed a long round wicker bafket, refembling a tunnel. This aperture is clofed with a fmall iron grate, which opens within the box, like a trap door, and falls to its original pofition, by its own weight. A fquare wooden frame, fimilar to thofe ufed at mills for the purpofe of catching eels, extends nearly acrofs the whole of the ftream, below the large iron grate, leaving only fufficient room for the falmon. The fifh, in his migration, is obliged to afcend this narrow opening, and having paffed the wooden frame, is flopped by the grate. Inflead of retreating down the narrow pafs, by which he afcended, he turns fideways, is hurried by the rapidity of the ftream along a narrow current, leading through the tunnel, forces up the trap door, KEMEYS COMMANDER. 161 door, which immediately falls down behind him, and is thus fecured in the box. The box contained feveral falmon ; one of which did not weigh lefs than thirty pounds. Troftrey Forge is rented by Harvey, Wafon, and company, from fir Samuel Fludyer. The place contains little worthy of obfervation, except an infcription over the door, which marks the extraordinary height of the Ulk : " Flood, February 16th 1795. Harvey, Wafon, and Company, Briftol." This memorial will convey fome idea of the dreadful inundations to which the country, in the vicinity of the river, is fubjecl: ; the infcription is fourteen feet above the ground, and twenty-two above the ordinary level of the river : the water rofe to this uncommon height in the fpace of twelve hours. Several of the workmen witnefTed the inundation, and Mr. Wafon, one of the proprietors, confirmed to me the truth of the memorial; fortunately, however, the river fub- fided almoft as rapidly as it had increafed. The bar iron manufactured at this forge, is fent to Tredonnoc bridge by land, from thence conveyed down the Ufk to Newport, and exported to Briftol. A little beyond the forge the river is no longer navigable, even for fmall vefTels ; it flows in a deep abyfs amid hills and woods, until it emerges near the town of Uflc. We here mounted our horfes, and rode through thickets acrofs the fields, to Kcmeys Commander, a fmall village which, according to a pedigree of the Kemeys family, is fuppofed to derive its name from Edward Kemeys, who was commander of the army under Hamlet, fon of Dru, due de Baladun, at the conqueft of Upper Gwent. As a reward for his military fervices, he is faid to have received the lordfhips of Kemeys Commander, and Little Kemeys, which I vifited in my excurfion from Caerleon to Uik. It is however more probable that it was denominated Kemeys Commander, becaufe it was a commandery of the knights templars, to whom, according to Bacon, the patronage cf the church be- longed \ The church is a gothic building of fmall dimenfions, fimple form, and ancient appearance, with a low belfry, like that of Malpas. In the church Y yard * Liber Regis, p. 1098. CHAPTER 16. yard is a finguiar phenomenon, which was pointed out to me by Mr. Rickards : within a hollow yew tree, fifteen feet in girth, is inclofed an oak, not lefs than feven feet in circumference ; its branches rife to a confiderable height, and over- fhadow the parent trunk, forming a fingular combination of foliage. Wc next rode through a narrow and ftony lane to the banks of the Ufk, and looked down from the fummit of a wooded precipice on a large weir, over which the river fell in a confiderable cataract. This falmon fifhery is rented by Mr. llhees, poft-mafter of Ulk, from fir Samuel Fludyer; it is held by a leafe of three lives, renewable on a certain fine, and the proprietor is bound to keep the weir in repair; the expence being fo confiderable as to exceed the annual rent, the leflbr repeatedly offered to furrender it wholly to the tenant, which has been as often declined: feveral law-fuits have enfued, and it was at length decided that, at t-he expiration of three lives, the covenant mould be void, and the property revert wholly to the leflbr. In our return to Clytha, we vifited Troftrey Houfe, the ancient feat of the family of Hughes, now a farm houfe. The church of Troftrey refembles that of Kemeys Commander, in its (hape and appearance ; but the fituation is extremely wild and romantic : it (lands on a gentle rife, in the midft of a wood, remote from any habitation, and feems rather the folitary chapel of a hermit, than the church of a cultivated diftricl. On the eaft wall of the chancel is a tablet erecled to the memory of Charles Hughes, brother to Thomas Hughes of Moinfcourf, who was celebrated in the annals of this country for his attachment to the caufe of king Charles the firft. He died 1676, aged 57, and his fucceflbrs retained pofieflion of Troftrey houfe and eftate, until it was purchafed by Valentine Morris, by whom it was fold to fir Samuel Fludyer, the preient proprietor. Entering the high road, from Uik to Abergavenny, we paffed through the village of Bettus Newydd, and vifited the church, which from its fize and form feems to have been built at the fame period with thofe of Troftrey and Kemeys Commander. It is, however, worthy of particular obfervation, as the ancient * rood- BETTUS NEWYDD. 163 rood-loft is entire, and a large wooden crofs is ftill affixed at its eaftem extremity; the carved work of the gallery is not inelegant. Beyond Bettus Newydd the road afcends a gentle rife, from which the traveller who purfues this route, from the New Paffage, firft catches a view of the roman- tic clufter of mountains in the neighbourhood of Abergavenny ; and from their fudden appearance "and contrafted forms, receives lively impreffions of delight and admiration. C 1 CHAPTER 17. Abergavenny. — Circumjacent Mountains. — The Blorenge. — Sugar Loaf.Skyrrid. — Ejlablijliment of the Free School. r I ^HE pofition of Abergavenny is mod delightful ; it ftands at the extremity of a pafs where the mountains abruptly terminate, and the vale of the Ufk begins to take a greater expanfion. The name * is derived from its fituation at the mouth of the Gavenny, which flows by the outfkirts of the town, and falls into the Ufk, to the fouth-weft of the caftle. Abergavenny ftretches at the feet of hills and mountains, which gradually fwelling from the vale, unite the extremes of wildnefs and fertility, and are in- terefting from the contrail of their fhape and appearance. To the weft rifes the Blorenge, magnificent from its height and continuity; it forms the northern extremity of the chain, which reaches from Pont y Pool, and terminates near the confines of the county. The higheft part towers above the Ufk, and the town of Abergavenny ; its fides are concave ; the fummit is covered with rufiet herbage, without a fingle bufh ; the midland parts are chequered with underwood, intermixed with fertile meadows, and the bafe is clothed with timber trees. At the northern extremity, the rich knoll of Upper Lanfoift prefents a wood of fine oak, afh, and elm, forming an extenfive mantle of thick and dark foliage. To the north are the Pen y Vale hills, which fweep from the extremity of the town, and rife into four undulating eminences: they appear at a little diftance to be feparate, but are connected together, and interle&ed by narrow glens, which are * All the Welfli mmes of towns diftinguifhed by fall of alefler water into a greater: thus Abergavenny, the prefix Aber, ii dicate their fiiuaticn at the jure- Aberyftwith, &c. tion of two rivers ; Aber in Welfh fignifying the ABERGAVENNY. 165 are watered by lively and murmuring ft reams that rife on their fides, and fwell the Ulk with their tributary waters. Thefe four eminences are known by dif- tindt appellations. The Deny, the moft eafterly, is of a convex fliape, and derives its name from a grove of imall oaks, which clothes its fides and lummitj the next is the Rolben; the third is the Graig Lanwenarth, and the fourth tire hill Lanwenarth ; both fo called from their fituation in the pari (h, and above the church of Lanwenarth. Thefe four hills fupport, on their broad and extenfive bafe, the Pen y Vale *, called the Sugar Loaf, from its fhape. The undulating outline of this elegant fummit, is emboiTed in the middle with the cone, which aflumes different ap- pearances : " Mille habet ornatus mille decent er habet." It looks like a piked ridge from the oppofite fide of the Ulk ; fometimes appears in a globular fhape, but at a diftance, and particularly at the fouth- eaftern fide" of the Skyrrid, aflumes the form of a pyramid, and refembles the crater of a volcano. This cone is the higheft object in the vicinity, has nothing rugged or craggy, and is charadterifed by fmoothnefs and beauty. The moft fingular and interefting mountain in the neighbourhood, is the Great Skyrrid, or St. Michael's Mount, which ftretches from north to fouth, or more accurately from north-eaft to fouth-weft : it is an infulated mount, rifing ab- ruptly from the plain ; the north-eaftern fide appears a fleep ridge of a brown hue ; towards the fouth and fouth-eaft, it flopes gradually into cultivation. The fummit is covered with heath, or ruflet herbage, and its feet are clothed with wood, or enriched with corn and pafture. In one point of view, particularly from the Little Skyrrid, it aflumes the ap- pearance of an enormous barrow, or tumulus, piled up by the hands of giants. To the north it terminates in a bold and craggy precipice, divided into two points, quaintly, * Peny Va'e> fuppofed by fome to be a corruption of common term for a fugar-loaf hill. So the poet, Penyfoel, or the barren top, pronounced Peny voel. David ap Gwilym, fpeaking of a fine complexion, fays, Mr. Owen, however, has favoured me with a more " L/iw tnanod balodd" " the hue of the driven fnow of probable etymology : Val, ftanding alone, out of the the Peaks." In another paffage, he fays, "Lliiv eiry y conftraftion of a fentertce, would be Bal, which is a " aw/," " the hue of the fnow of the Peak." 166 CHAPTER if. quaintly, but not inaccurately called by Stukcley, " bipartite at top, and Par- naflus like *V' chis double fummit is occafioned by afifTure or rent, from which the name of Skyrrid is fuppofed to be derived -j-. At a fmall diftance from Lan- vihangel, on the Herefordlhire road, this precipitous rock feems like two detached mountains, of a conical fhape, and as I obierved fome clouds refting on the higheft fummit, its flupendous crag appeared like the rugged crater of a volcano, vomit- ing volumes of fmoke. The Little Skyrrid is a beautiful fwelling hill, covered on its fides and fummit with plantations ; its elegant form and fertile appearance are finely contrafled. with the rugged and broken ridge of the Great Skyrrid. The refpeftive heights of thefe mountains, above the mouth of the Gavenny, were taken barometrically by general lloy : Feet. The fummit of the Sugar Loaf - 1852. of the Skyrrid - - 1498. of the Little Skyrrid - 765. of the Blorenge - - 1720. The Ufk, which nfes in Brecknockfhire, is here a mountain-torrent ; and from its rapid and transparent ftream, flowing through fields of corn and pafture, gives a lively colouring to the rich woods which tower above and around it. The Gavenny, or as it is called by the natives,, the Kenvy, rifes in the vicinity of Lanvihangel, and after flowing between the Skyrrid and the Hereford road, bends to Landcilo Bertholly, flows round the fouthern fide of Abergavenny, and falls into the Ufk, near the ruins of the caftle. The Kibby, a fmall brook, rifes in the upper part of the Derry, waters a. narrow glen between the Derry and Rolben, and after flowing through the town,, and fupplying it with water, falls into the Gavenny, not far from itsjunftion with the Ufk. Abergavenny * Stukelcy's Itin. Curios, vol. ?. p. 70. to others, of Yjgyryd, or rough, either of which is t According to foine, Skyrrid is a corruption of equally applicable. Tfeyrraedi implying reparations or fiflures ; according J ABERGAVENNY. 167 Abergavenny is generally allowed, by the beft antiquaries, to be the Goban- nium of Antonine. The limilarity between the ancient and modern name, the agreement of its diftance from Caerleon, on one fide through Burrium or Uik, and on the other from Uriconium or Wroxeter, through Magna or Kencheiler, with thofe fpecified in the Itineraries, and- the difcovery of various Roman na- iiquities, fully afcertain this point *. It may not, however, be fuperfluous to add a proof of the relidence of the Romans in thefe parts, not hitherto noticed, and which indicates that the ancient Gobannium occupied the fame fide of the river as the prefent town : the parim of Lanwenarth is divided by the Ufk, and the two parts are (till diflinguifhed by Latin appellations ; the part neareft to Abergavenny, on the left bank of the Uik, is called Lanwenarth cifra, or on this tide the Uik; and the other divifion, Lanwenarth ultra, or on the other fide. The parifh of Landeilo Bertholly is alfo called citra and ultra, from its lituation on each tide of the Gavenny. Abergavenny occupies a gentle Hope, from the foot of the Deny to the left bank of the Uik. The town is long and llraggling, and the ftreets are in general narrow, although within a few years it has been much improved in appearance. The principal ftreet is not deficient in breadth ; an old market-houfe -f-, which embarralled the paiTage, has been removed, and a neat and convenient place has been formed in a better fituation. Abergavenny was once a corporate town, and a place of great population, trade, and importance. Leland calls it " a faire waul/ed town, meately well inhabited J;" and a manufcript account of Monmouthfhire, collected in 1602 by George Owen, of Henllys, in Pembrokemire, efq. defcribes it as " a fine town, wealthy * See Horfley. — Strange. tation, till within thefe few years, by an order of the f The old market-houfe in Abergavenny was magiltrates, the feflions were transferred to Uik. It badly ftuated, juJt in the middle of the principal lixeet was built by the benefaction of 200 marks, left for in the town, which it fo nearly covered as to leave a that purpofe, by the laft will of Philip Jones, of London narrow paflage, only on one fide, fcnrcely fufiicient and Lanarth court, efq. (anceltor to the Jones's of to admit carriages. It was, however, fpacious and Lanarth and Clytha) dated 27th Sept. 1602. From -commodious, and contained a large apartment, at W. Dinwoody, efq. the farther end of which was a convenient court \ Itin. vol. 5. fol. 7. of juftice, where the quarter feflions were held in ro- ,68 CHAPTER 17. wealthy and thriving* and the very bejl in the JJiire *." The decline of its importance may be dated from the forfeiture of the charter, in the beginning of the reign of William the third, on account of difaffedion to the new government, which oc- cafioned violent diffenfions, tumults, and diforders at the eledion of a bailiff -f. Another caufe of its decline was derived from the failure of the trade. Abergavenny was once the chief mart for fupplying the midland parts of Wales with fhop goods, and various articles of traffic. Since the conftrudion of turn- pike roads, and the cuftom of fending out riders, which prevails among the mer- chants of London and Briftol, for the purpofe of vending their own commodities, this branch of trade has been almoft annihilated. The town was likewife en- riched by a confklerable manufadory of flannel, for which the circumjacent country is well calculated ; the fheep of the hills fupply a fine fpecies of wool, and the quality of the waters in the vicinity is peculiarly adapted for rendering the flannel foft and delicate. Only a fmall quantity is now made in the town and neighbourhood, and the manufadure has been principally transferred to Longtown in Montgomeryfhire, which, from cuftom, flill retains the name of Abergavenny flannel, although inferior in filkinefs and foftnefs to the fpecies made in this place. The decay of this manufadure has been attributed to the cuftom of rolling the pieces, which renders infpedion more difficult, and con- ceals defeds, fo that the farther end has been occafionally found to be of an in- ferior quality : on the contrary, the Montgomeryfhire flannel is packed in folds, by which the whole of the piece is equally liable to infpedion. Perhaps the only method of remedying the bad effeds of this cuftom, would be to adopt regulations, fimilar to thofe eftablifhed by law, for the packing of Irifh linen, by which means the credit of the fabric is preferved. A manufadure of narrow cloth, almoft lufficient to fupply the inhabitants, has alfo fallen to decay fince the introdudion of machinery too expenfive for the limited trade of this diftrid. A laudable attempt, at the beginning of the eighteenth century, was made to revive it by two opulent inhabitants. The one fent his fon into Glocefterfhire, to learn the bufinefs of wool-ftapling, and a fon of * Hift. of Mon. Appendix, No. V. f See the aft of parliament relating to -the free fchool of Abergavenny, which parted in 1760. ABERGAVENNY. 169 of the other was apprenticed to a clothier at Shepton Mallet. Unfortunately the latter, who was a promifing young man, dying in the laft year of his apprentice- fhip, this judicious fcheme was defeated. This place alfo fupplied large quantities of fhoes, which were conveyed to Briftol, and exported from thence. Although this trade is confiderably dimi- nifhed, and fuppofed to be adequate only to the conlumption of the neigh- bourhood, yet the number of fhoemakers render it probable that fome are even now exported. During the prepoflerous fafhion formerly prevalent among the beaux, of deco- rating their heads with flaxen perriwigs of an enormous fize, which were valued in proportion to their whitenefs, and not unfrequently fold at the price of forty or fifty guineas, a method was difcovered, and fuppofed to be invented in this neighbourhood, of bleaching hair ; an employment which iupported many per- fons, and was productive of confiderable profit ; until the fafhion changed. From this concurrence of unfavourable circumftances, the trade declined, and Abergavenny was haflening to decay ; but about forty years ago, a new fource of advantage was fortunately opened. The paflage through thefe parts being facili- tated by the conflruction of turnpike roads, the beauties of the fituation attracted attention ; and phyficians of great practice prefcribing goats' whey for con- fumptive perfons, Abergavenny became a place of refort. But alas ! a fafhion prevails in medicine as well as in drefs : the flaxen perriwigs fell into difufe, and goats' whey is no longer the panacea of confumptive complaints. Yet numerous invalids (till repair every fummer to Abergavenny, for the mildnefs and falubrity of the air, and travellers flock in crowds to enjoy the charming afpect of the furrounding fcenery. But more folid and fubftantial benefits are expected to flow from the recent eftabiifhment of the iron founderies in the neighbouring mountains, which already afford full occupation to the poor in the adjoining parifhes. The numbers em- ployed are daily augmenting, the consumption greater and more certain, and the value of lands already increafed one fourth. The natives entertain the mofr. (anguine hopes of ftill greater benefit. The numerous ftreams which fall Z down i 7 o CHAPTER 17. down the furrounding heights, are well calculated for water-mills i new eftablifh- ments may be formed, and the large quantities of bar iron fabricated in the vi- cinity, which are now exported, may be manufactured into different articles, and fent down the canal, when it is completed, to the ports of the channel. Abergavenny was noted for the cheapnefs as well as the excellence of its mar- ket ; but by the influx of company, and the eftablifhment of the iron-works, the price of provifions has been confiderably enhanced, to the chagrin of a few, who have derived no benefit from thefe advantages. A ftranger, expatiating with rap- ture on the beauty of the views, faid to a native who accompanied him, " Really, Mr. Davies, this ipot of your's is quite enchanting! you cannot move a ftep with- out difcovering new beauties ; fine profpects are actually cheap here." " True, fir," replied Mr. Davies, " and you will find profpects to be the only cheap things in the country." There is a free grammar fchool at Abergavenny, which was founded by Henry the eighth, and endowed, in truil to the corporation, with the great tythes of the rectory of Bedgeworth in the county of Glocefter, which was a parcel of the monaftery of Ufk, and of feveral rectories * which belonged to the priory of Abergavenny, for the maintenance of a mafter, chofen by the bailiffs and. vicar, and of an ufher, appointed by the mafter, with the addition of £.10 annually to " two of the mod hopeful and indigent fcholars." By a fubfequent arrange- ment, made in the reign and at the recommendation of Charles the fecond, the great tythes of Bedgeworth were leafed, for a term of 99 years, to Jefus college in the univerfity of Oxford, at an annual rent of £.50, on condition of main- taining a fellow and fchoJar, to be chofen by the bailiffs and vicar out of the free fchool ; and fhould none be deemed qualified for learning and man- ners, from the natives of the county of Monmouth. Of this annual fum £.40 was appropriated for the falary of the mafter, £. 10 for the exhibition of the two fcholars, and £. 1 5. a year were paid to the ulher out of the other rents by the corporation. * " Of St. Michael de Kilcorney, Llandewy Ro- " Llanwen.irth, all in the county of Monmouth, and *' therg, Llaneilen, Llanthewy Skredde, and Bring- « diocele of Landaff, &c." Acl of parliament, p. 2. " wine, and a portion of tythes of the recfory of ABERGAVENNY. 171 corporation. On the forfeiture of the charter the truft ceafed ; but the terms were duly fulfilled by Jefus College, on whom, in conjunction with the vicar, the choice of the mafter devolved ; the receivers, however, of the other eftates which remained in the hands of the corporation, and were valued at ^.53 a year, withheld the payment of the rents, excepting the ftipend of the ufher. As in confequence of the forfeiture of the charter, all thefe arrears and rents devolved upon the crown, as well as the reverfion of the impropriate rectory of Bedgeworth at the expiration of the leafe of ninety-nine years, a joint petition from Jefus college and the town of Abergavenny was prefented to the king. Accordingly, in 1760, an act of parliament verted in perpetuity the rectory of Bedgeworth in Jefus college, on the former conditions, and the rents and arrears of the other rectories in truftees, for paying the uflier, fupporting the fchool, and employing the furplus for the relief of the poor, and benefit of the town. According to the regulations eftablifhed by this act of parliament, the mafter, who muft be a fellow, fcholar, or member of Jefus college, is chofen by the college and the vicar, if refident ; the fellow and fcholar muft be either natives of Abergavenny or of the county of Monmouth, who have been at lean: two years in the grammar fchool ; they are nominated by the college, are called the fellow and fcholar of Bergavenny, and bound to vacate their fellowship or fcholarihip at the end of fourteen years. Vifitors arc appointed from the college to infpect the fchool, and to correct abufes ; the vicar is likewife empowered to examine the conduct of the mafter, and in cafe of negligence, in conjunction with the bilhop of Landaff and the college, to remove him and nominate another. Z z [ I 7 2 ] CHAPTER 1 8. Tudor' 's Gate. — Ruins of Abergavenny Qqfih. — Hi/iory, and different Proprietors. A BERG AV EN NY was formerly a fortified place ; many parts of the walls •*• are entire, and their fite may be traced in the center of the town. The weftern gate ftill exifts ; it is called Tudor's Gate, and is a ftrong gothic portal, defended by aportcullis, of which the groove is vifible. In palling through the arch, the eye catches a perfpective view, which is much admired : inthe fore ground, the river is feen under the arches of the bridge, gliding ak>ng the meads ; the houfe of upper Lanfoift appears bofomed in a rich grove of oaks, and the back ground is- formed by the naked, but magnificent fwell of the Blorenge. A more pleafmg aflemblage of pi&urefque objects never entered into the compofition of a land- fcape ; the whole harmonifes together, and produces an effecl which neither the pen nor the pencil can adequately delineate. Although the caftle is much dilapidated, the fite is not difficult to be traced. The ruins are very extenfive, and veftiges of the ancient walls are ftill feen at fome diftance. The caftle confifted of two courts, one of which is converted into a kitchen garden ; the gateway or grand entrance ftill exifts, and fome part of the walls ; but the principal remains are fituated on an eminence overlooking the Ufk ; they confift of a pointed arched doorway, a high round tower, and part of a pentagon tower. To the fouth-eaft is a tumulus, envi- roned by a trench, with the foundation of a building on the top ; this was proba- bly the keep or citadel. The doorways and windows of which the fhapes are vifible are pointed or gothic. The ABERGAVENNY CASTLE. 175 The great beauty of thefe remains is derived from their fituation on an abrupt rife, overlooking the vale and river of the Ufk : their portion, and the range of the adjacent mountains, are well defcribed by Mr. Sotheby : " Here while I wake the reed, beneath the brow " Of the rent Norman tower that overhangs " The lucid Ufk, the enamoured eye purfues " Along the expanfe the undulating line tf That nature loves. Whether with gentle bend " She flopes the vale, or lifts the gradual hill, " Winds the free rivulet, or down the bank " Spreads the wild wood's luxuriant growth, or breaks " With interrupting heights the even bound' " Of the outftretched horizon. Far and wide, " Blackening the plain beneath, proud Blorench lowers.. " Behind whole level length the wefhern fun " Dims his flope beam : there the oppofed mount " Eaftern of craggy Skirrid, facred foil, " Oft trod by pilgrim foot. O'er the fmooth fwell " Of Derry, glide the clouds that gathering hang " Round yon fteep brow*, amid the varied fcene " Towering aloft. As gradual up the height " Of the rough hills, afcending Ceres leads " The patient ftep of labour, the wide heath, " Where once the nibbling flock fcant herbage cropt, u Wave in the breeze, with golden harvefts crown'd." According to tradition, the cattle of Abergavenny was constructed before the conqueft, by a giant called Agros, which report fufficiently fhews its antiquity, and renders it probable, that the Britons had erected a fortrefs at this place ; for the beft critics in the Britifh language admit, that the ancient word Gawr, which is ufually tranflated a giant, signified alfo a prince -f-. The character of the ruins, however,. * The Sugar Loaf. f Cambrian Regifter, vol. i. p- 350. I74 CHAPTER 18. however, feems to indicate, that no remains of the Britifli fortrefs exift, and that the prefent ftru&ure was raifed in the Norman sera ; hiftory confirms this conjecture. Soon after the conqueft, Hameline, fon of Dru de Baladun or Balun, one of the great Norman chieftains, fubdued Overwent, and built a fortrefs at Aberga- venny ; dying without iffue, in 1090, he left the caftle to his nephew Brien de in Wallingford or de 1' Ifle. Brien, having two fons, who were lepers, placed them in the priory of Abergavenny, and going to Jerufalem, iurrendered the territory and caftle to his nephew Walter de Glocefter, earl of Hereford and conftable of Eng- land. It was inherited by Milo, fon of Walter, whofe fons dying without iffue, his vaft poffeflions were divided among his three daughters. Berta brought to her hufband, Philip de Braofe, a powerful baron, the caftle, together with all the lands of Brecknock and Overwent, from whom they defcended to their fon Wil- liam de Braofe. At this period, the caftle was furprifed by Sitfylt ap Dyfnwald and other Welfh chieftains, and the whole garrifon taken pri Toners. From them William re- ceived it by compofition ; but iufpicious of their intentions, he bafely murdered Sitfylt, his fon Geoffrey, and other chieftains of Gwent, whom he invited to a feaft in the caftle. If we may credit the account of the Welfh chronicles, he afterwards repaired to Sitfylt's houfe, and flew the other fon, Cadwallader, in his mother's prefence *. This barbarous act was amply revenged on himfelf, his wife, and family. Having incurred the refentment of king John, he, his wife Maud, and their fon William, were arrefted : according to Matthew of Weftmifter, his wife and fon were famifhed at Windfor ; William, after efcaping abroad in the habit of a beggar, wandered as a fugitive from place to place, and dying at Paris, in 1212, was interred in the abbey of St. Victor. His fon Reginald obtained poffelTion of Abergavenny, and of the other caftles which belonged to his father, and dying in 1222, tranfmitted them to William his fon, whole end was no lefs tragical than that of his grandfather. " Being fufpected," as Dugdale fays, " of over much familiarity with the wife of Lewe- iinc * Powell's Killory of Wales, p. 200. ABERGAVENNY CASTLE. 175 line, prince of Wales (lifter to king Henry) he was, by him, fubtiily invited to an Eafter feaft, but after the entertainment was over, was charged therewith by Levveline, and call into prifon, where he fuffered death by barbarous murther. Some fay he was hanged, and the wife of Leweline with him." William leaving no iflue male, his. great property was divided among his four daughters ; of whom Eve conveyed the honour and lands of Abergavenny as her dower, to her huf- band William de Cantilupe. Their foil George dying, in 1272, without ilTue, was fucceeded in the barony by his nephew John de Haftings, who held this caftle by homage, ward, and marriage ; covenanting, in cafe of war between the king of England and prince of Wales, to defend the country of Overwent " at his own charge, to the utmoft of his power, and for the good of himfelf, the king, and kingdom *." John de Haftings is reprefented, in an heraldic poem, as the mirror of chivalry, blending courtefy with deeds of arms ; as bold and impetuous in the battle, as gentle and debonnaire in time of peace, and executing juftice with wifdom and impartiality. He had a light and ftrong Ihield, and a banner with emblafoned arms, or a manche gules -jr. Having efpoufed Ifabel, daughter of William, filler and at length coheir to Adomere de Valence, earl of Pembroke, his grandfon Laurence, became earl of Pembroke, as well as lord of Abergavenny. John, fon of Laurence, being made lieutenant of Aquitain, was attacked and taken prifoner by the Spaniards (1372). After a confinement of four years in Spain, " with moft inhumane ufage," he was at length releafed, under condition of paying an exorbitant ranfom, but died in his journey to Calais, in the 30th year of his age. With the king's licenfe he entailed, in failure of heirs male, the caftle and lordlhip of Bergavenny, and other lands in England and Wales, on his coufin fir William Beauehamp, fourth fon of Thomas earl of Warwick, by Katherine, daughter of Roger lord Mortimer. This difpoiition took effect on the death of his fon John, who was flain at a tournament in the 17th year cf his age (1389.) Sir William Beauchamp, who on the untimely death of John fucceeded to the barony * Camden's Britannia, vol. 2. p. 716. f Ant quarian Repertory, vol. 2. p. 137. i 7 6 C H A P T E R 18. barony of Bcrgavenny, diftinguilhed himfelf by his military prowefs in feveral campaigns, under John of Gaunt duke of Lancafter, and in reward for his fer- vices was intrufted with the important command of Calais. In this fituation, he gave a proof of manly firmnefs and high integrity : the duke of Glocefter, aided by a powerful confederacy of the barons, having taken up arms for the purpofe of compelling Richard the fecond to diilnifs his favourites, the king formed the defign of retiring into France, and purchanng the affiftance of Charles the fixth, by the furrender of the principal fortreffes pofieffed by the Englifh in that realm. Apprehenfive left the inflexible integrity of fir William Beauchamp fliould impede his defign, Richard ordered him to relinquifh the command of Calais, and fcranfrnit certain letters to the court of France ; in reply to this order, he declared, " that he would not refign in a private and unauthorifed manner, that charge and truft which he had received publicly from the king, in the pre- fence and with the confent of his nobles." At the fame time he tranfmitted the letters to the duke of Glocefter in England. He afterwards arrefted John de la Pole, brother of the earl of Suffolk, the royal minion, who was fent to fuperfede him as captain of Calais, and conveyed him a prifoner to England. For this bold meafure, which totally difconcerted the king's defigns, he was committed to pri- fon, but foon releafed ; and being again reftorcd to his honours and eftates, was, on the 23d of November 1392, firft fummoned to parliament as baron Ber- gavenny. He was highly favoured by Henry the fourth, who made him a knight c4 the garter, and appointed him juftice of South Wales for life. He died in 1411, after fettling, by a fpccial entail, the caftle and lordfhip of Abergavenny, in failure of his iffue male, on his brother Thomas earl of Warwick, and his heirs male. He was fucceeded in the lordfhip of Abergavenny by his fon Richard, who emulating his father's actions, was, for his military fervices, advanced by Henry the fifth to the earldom of Worcefter, and obtained large grants of lands in Nor- mandy. He did not long enjoy thefe marks of royal favour; for he fell a victim tp his military ardour, being mortally wounded in his fide by a ftone from a fling. He died in 1420, leaving, by his wife Ifabelj fifter and heir of Richard ie De- 3 fpenfen i ABERGAVENNY CASTLE. 177 fpenfer, an only daughter, Elifabeth, who married fir Edward Nevill, fourth fon of Ralph earl of Weflmoreland,_ to whom llie conveyed all her father's poffefTions, excepting the caftle and lordlhip of Abergavenny, which by the fpe- cial entail defcended to Richard, eldeft fon and heir of Thomas earl of Warwick. Richard earl of Warwick, who thus became baron of Abergavenny, was one of the mod puiflant and valorous nobles of his age, and by his feats in arms almoft realifed the fabulous adventures of Guy earl of Warwick, his renowned ancef- tor. He fignalifed himfelfat a very early age in fuppremng the rebellion of Owen Glendower, whofe ftandard he took in open combat, and gained great honour at the memorable battle of Shrewsbury. Without recounting the numerous inftanccs of his military fkill and heroic intrepidity, which greatly contributed to the fuccefs of the Englifh arms in France j it will be fufncient to obferve, that he was the friend and companion in arms of Henry the fifth, who grate- fully rewarded his fervices by repeated marks of favour, and gave the higheft teftimony of his refpecl, by appointing him guardian to his infant fon. He was no lefs diftinguifhed by foreign princes than by his own fovereign ; being deputed, with a retinue of 800 horfe, to accompany the Englifh prelates to «the general council of Conftance, he received uncommon marks of approbation from the emperor Sigifmond and his confort. Having fignalifed himfelf at a tournament, the emprefs took his badge from the fhoulder of one of his knights, and placed it on her own. The emperor alfo, on his arrival in England, faid to Henry the fifth, " No chriftian prince has fuch a knight, for wifdom, nurture, and manhood ; and if all courtel'y was loft on earth, it might yet be found again in him :" hence he was denominated " the father of courtefy:" He was not only the moft diftinguifhed warrior, but the greater! traveller of his age. After vifiting France and Italy, he made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, and was received at Jerufalem with the higheft marks of refpecl, as well for his own valour, as for his defcent from Guy earl of Warwick, whofe romantic hiftorywas adapted to the genius of the eaft. From Jerufalem he returned to Venice, and continued his travels through Ruffia, Lithuania, Poland, Pruffia, and Germany. During this expedition, he performed extraordinary feats of chivalry A a in i 7 S C II A P T E R iS. in divers •tournaments, in which he furpalTed all his contemporaries. But he even fiirpafled himfelf in a tournament which he held near Calais in 1416. An account of this Angular adventure is related by Dugclale from an ancient manufcript with fuch fpirit and fimplicity, that it cannot be abridged without injury to the narrative *. He died at Rouen in Normandy in 1439, bearing the high office of regent of France. Henry his fon by his fecond wife Ifabel, widow of Richard de Beauchamp carl of Worcefter, gave proofs of early prowefs. In confideration of his fervices in defence of ihe duchy of Aquitain, before he had accomplithed the age of nineteen, * " Whereupon he foon hafted to Calais, and the more fpeedily, becaufe he heard, that the French were raifing great forces againll that place; but when he undei flood, that thofeiorces bent another way, he re- folved to put in practice fome new point of chevaliy, caufing three fhields to be made, and in each of them a lady painted; the firlt harping at the end of a bed- ftead, with a grate of gold on her left fieeve, and her knight called the green knight, with a black quarter, who was ready to juft with any knight of France twelve courfes; having two fhields of purveyance, and )ii3 letter fealed with the feal of his arms, the field filver, a mane h, gules ; the fecond pavice or fhield, had a lady fitting at a covered board working pearls, and on her fieeve a glove of plate tacked, her knight being called chevalier Vert, having his letter fealed with thefe arms, the field filver, two bars of gules, who was to juft fifteen courfes, and that lhould be faddles of chains ; the third pavice had a lady fitting in a garden making a chaplet, and on her ileeve a polein with a rivet, her knight being called chevalur attendant, who with his fellow muft run and courfe with (harp fpears, his letter being fealed ivithgold and gules quarterly, and a border i/ert ; which letters were fent to the king's court of France, where three French knights received them, and pro'mifed their fellows to meet at a day and place afhgned : whereupon the firft was a knight called fir Gerard Herbaumes, who called himfelf le chevalier rouge - t the fecond a famous knight, called fir Hugh Xauney, tailing himfelf le chevalier Blanke ; and the third a knight named fir Collard Fines. Twelfday in Chriftmas being appointed for the time, that they fhould meet in a land called the Park hedge of Gynes. " On which day, this earl came into the field with his face covered, a plume of ofti ich feathers upon his helm, and his horfe trapped with the lord Toney's arms, (one of his anceftors) viz. argent a manch gules, where firft encountering with the chevalier Rouge, at the third courfe he unhorfed him, and fb returned with dole vizor unknown to his pavilion, whence he fent to thai knight a good courfer. " The next day he came into the field with Ins vizor clofe, a chaplet on his helm, and a plume of oftrich feathers aloft, his horfe trapped with the arms of Han flap, viz filver tnuo bars gules, where he met with the blank knight, with whom he encountered, fmote oft" his vizor thrice, broke his befagues, ana other hartleys, and returned viciorioufly to his pa- vilion with all his own habiliments fafe, and as yet not known to any ; from whence he fent this blank knight, fir Hugh Launey r a good courfer. " But the morrow after, being the laft day of the jufts he came widi his face open, and his helmet as the day before, fave that the chaplet was rich with pearl and precious ftones, and in his coat of anus of Guy and Beauchamp quarterly; having the arms of Toney and Han flap on his trappers, and f; ' ' that as he had in his ownperfon performed the fervice the two days before, fo with God's grace he would the third. Whereupon encountering with fir Collard Fines, at every ftroke he bore him backward to his horfe, infomuch, as the Frenchmen faying, that he himfelf was bound to his faddle ; he alighted and prefently got up again. But all being ended, he re- turned to his pavilion, fent to fir Collard Fines a fair courfer, feafted all the people, gave to thole three knights great rewards,, and fo rode to Calais with great honour." Dugdale's Baronage, vol, 1. p. 244. ABERGAVENNY CASTLE. 179 nineteen, he was created by Henry the fixth " primier earl of England, and for " a diftinction between him and other earls, the king granted to him and the " heirs male of his body, leave to wear a golden coronet, as well in his own pre- " fence, as elfewhere, upon fuch great feftivals as the like ufed to be worn." He alfo conferred on him the title of duke of Warwick, declared him king of t he Ifle of Wight, and placed the crown on his head with his own hands*. He lived only to receive thefe mighty honours ; for he died in 1445, in the twenty-fecond year of his age, leaving an infant daughter, Anne, who became ward to the crown, and died in her infancy. On the death of the duke of Warwick, fir Edward Nevill, by petition to the throne, obtained the barony, and had livery of the caftle in right of his wife Elifa- beth, fole daughter of Richard Beauchamp earl of Worcefter. But although he thus obtained livery of the caftle, and both he and his defcendants were fum- moned to parliament under the title of barons of Bergavenny, yet he never acquired poffefiion ; he was excluded by Richard Nevill, fon of the earl of Sa- lifbury, who, in virtue of his marriage with Anne, fifter of the late duke, ob- tained the earldom of Warwick, and together with his other poftefiions, the caftle of Abergavenny ; all oppofition being ineffectual to the will of the great king maker. Warwick being flain at the battle of Barnet field, the chief part of his porTef- fions ought to have reverted to his widow, as heirefs of the houfe of Beauchamp j but they were fettled by act of parliament on her two daughters, Ifabel, who efpoufed George duke of Clarence, and Anne, the wife of Richard duke of Glocefter. Accordingly the caftle was retained by the duke of Clarence ; and on his attainder by the duke of Glocefter, afterwards Richard the third. After the death of Richard, the unfoitunate widow of Warwick, who had buffered extreme poverty, was reftored to her inheritance by another acl of parliament: but this reftoration was a mere formality; for fhe was no fooner reinftated, than flie was compelled to furrender them by a deed of enfeoffment to Henry the feventh, Dugdale has enumerated the poffeffions which (he thus yielded to the crown, A a 2 to * Lehnd's Itiu. vol. 6. p. 91^ j8o CHAPTER 18. to the detriment of her grandibn, the unfortunate earl of Warwick, who was im- prifoned in the tower, and afterwards beheaded for a fuppofed confpiracy. The caftle, thus wrefted from the houfe of Warwick, and detained from the Nevills, was, with many other pofleffions, granted * by Henry the feventh, to his uncle Jafper de Hatfield, earl of Pembroke, who had greatlycontributed to raife him to the throne, and was recently created duke of Bedford. On his death, in 1495, without iffiie, the caftle reverted to the crown ; but in the reign of Henry the eighth was reftored to George, grandibn of fir Edward Nevill, upon a petition of right prefented to the king ■f. Henry, the fon of George, dying in 1586, leaving an only daughter, Mary, married to fir Thomas Fane, knight, the caftle of Abergavenny, in virtue of the entail, defcended to his brother, fir Edward Nevill ; but the barony was claimed by both parties, and the difpute was not decided until 1605. After a pleading of feven days, the houfe of peers declared, that each of the claimants feemed, in refped of defcent, worthy of the dignity ; and as the baronies of Abergavenny and le Defpencer, belonged hereditarily to the family, requefted the king to honour both parties with the title of baron; to which he agreed. The lord chancellor propofing to the peers, whether the heir male or female mould enjoy the title of Abergavenny, the majority voted for the heir male ; he then propofed, that the title of baron le Defpenfer mould be conferred on the female and her heirs ; they unanimouily afTented. Accordingly, Edward was fummoned to parliament by the king's writ, under the title of baron Aber- gavenny, and being introduced, was placed above the baron de Audeley. At the fame time the king's letters patent were read, reftoring the barony of le Defpenfer » It appears from the docket of a grant, in the " by the heirs of the faid earl, wrongfully withholden Heralds' Office, book W Q, fol. 45, from Henry " and detained from the right heirs of the forefaid the feventh, in the third year of his reign, that the " fir William Beauchamp, lord of Bergavenny, that faid king " gave and granted to Jai'per duke of Bed- " firft made the entail ; which heirs, notwithstanding ford the caftle, with all the lands, members, and ap- " the want of pofleilion of the faid caftle and lordftiip purtenances of Burgavenny, otherwile called Aber- " in all this mean time, have always been fummoned gavenny. " and called to the parliaments holden in their dayes, f It declared " how Richard Nevill earl of War- " as lords and barons of Bergavenny, and for fuch * wick had wrongfully difleifed fir Edward Nevill " have been efteemed, reputed, and taken, during " lord of Bergavenny his grandfather ; and how by " their lives." " that difleifon, the laid caftle and lordftiip had been, Collins's Baronies by Writ, p. 178—79. (To face p. ilo.) c "J* — B c 2 X3 -J * s 6 .£ < w jg S H 2 « -o S C « u C JJ o .5- S C " .5" c .2 E E 8 I u n O -O IH-J L S 5 if "3 00 = rt 5 ° ■= £ !5 * .2 6 < « ~ pa w M 00 5 S t*2 . o e g •stS "o E E o "J * v v Sea •£ • w t2 5z « -a j< E> .§£.2 < -o « o5 "° N W — v3 Q ta o B o E 5: . ^ - > 33 B ■3 E (Continuation > S5 2 55 w > < c ct w pa Is o p< < P3 s S3 (-< CO ■So 'S aa < 35 5 « ■8 * 6-^ 5 I O 3 oo -O _Q W> ■I g£ " oo « i « i <-> -a <4_ (*; „ O X £ cO S o C "3 T3 >^ ^ c J= °- C e u £"3 w I'll X £?* B 1 : Q H — c d rt o T3 O ^ s -— s «2 i; >r - •5> . c B #. rt v^j i- " o -o • 6^ «-< fucc. • | c ii -i >— l oo of Thorn; it' Dorfet. c? v2 £ u « Mr Sackvi E o c H I S II c . O -T3 ™ *\ c f? o ~— I o *° 3 ^ I 2 -2 t- S PS -2 It n fc- c -.2 c . = 9 * <2 ^> |0 pa r< — ' W < -O -a > o . V* JH 1H U J3 _j Oh >" o o j S T3 C W -3 2 e * b c -0 Ji o »| J" y c V 4-1 a g v — ABERGAVENNY CASTLE. 181 Defpenfer to Alary Fane and her heirs. But on the queflion of precedency, the peers referred to the commiflioners for the office of earl marfhal of England, who decided in favour of le Defpencer *. The lineal defendants of fir Edward Nevill have fince continued in pofTefhon of the caftle and barony. In 1784, George, the fifteenth lord of this line, was created vifcount Nevill and earl of Abergavenny ; on whofe death, his titles and eftates, together with the caftle, defcended to Henry, the prefent earl. The title -of Abergavenny is the only one remaining of thofe numerous baro- nies conferred by the kings on the great Norman chieftains who conquered Wales, and like the earldom of Arundel, is a feudal honour or local dignity, by inheritance and pofleffion of the caftle, without any other creation -f-. * Camden's Britannia, vol. i. p. 716. dun or Balun, de V Ifle, Braofe, Cantilupe, Haftings, f For the contents of this chapter, have been prin- Beauchamp, Nevill ; Col^ins's Peerage ; Edmcnfon's eipally confulted, Powell's Hillory of Wales; Dug- Hiltorical Account of the Greville family; Edmon- dale's MonaHicon ; Dugdale's Baronage, art. Bala- fon's Baronagium ; Collins's Baronies by Writ- fuMishcd 3tarc/ii itoo iyCaJea Sr Bttlia. Strand [ x82 ] CHAPTER 19. Ancient Pari// Church. — Priory.— St. Marfs Church. — Herbert Chapel. — Monu- ments. — Sir William ap Thomas. — Sir Richard Herbert of Coldbrook. — Sir Richard Herbert of Ewias. — Other Sepulchral Memorials. — Epitaph on the Roberts Family. TQ&EFOitE the dhTolution Abergavenny contained two churches ; one dedi- cated to St. John was the pariih church, and the other was the chapel of the priory. At the d involution the former was appropriated by Henry the eighth to the free fchool which he then endowed ; being in a ftate of decay, it was taken down about fifty years ago, and rebuilt in its pre fen t form, with a hand- fome embattled tower, which gives it the appearance of a religious edifice. An alien priory of Benedictine monks, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was founded at Abergavenny, by Hameline Balun*, or Baladun, in the latter end of the reign of William the conqueror, or the beginning of William Rufus. One of his pofterity, William de Braofe, in the reign of king John, " gave the tithes of his caftle, viz. of bread, wine, beer, cyder, all manner of fiefh, fifli, fait, honey, wax, tallow, and in general whatfoever mould be brought thither and fpent there, upon condition that the abbot and convent of St. Vincent's in Mans, (to which this priory was a cell) mould daily pray for the foul of king Henry the firft, as alfo for the foul of him the faid William, and the foul of Maud his wife f." At * Speed evroneoufly attributes the foundation of f Dugilalc, vol, 1. p. ai8. Monaft. vol. 1. p. 556. this priory to John de Haftings, who only confirmed Tanner art. Monmouthshire, the grants of his predeceflbrs. PRIORY AT ABERGAVENNY. 183 At the diffblution it contained a prior and four monks, whofe revenues amounted to £. 129. $s. Srf. according to Dugdale, and £.59. 4J. according to Speed, At that period, William Marley was prior, and received a penfion of £.9. Thomas Aftlcy and Thomas Martin, two of the friars, fubferibed to the fup-remacy, 12th September 1534*. Neither Speed, Dugdale, or Tanner men- tion to whom the fite was granted. It was long the property of the Guntcr family, but I cannot afcertain at what period or by what means it came into their poiTeffion. The Iaft pofl'efTor of this name was James Gunter, who re- prefented the county of Monmouth, and in 17 12 died fuddenly in the Houfe of Commons. His daughter and heirefs Mary, conveyed it to her hufband George Milborne of Wonaftow. Their fon Charles having no itfue male, it was inherited by his daughter Mary, who efpoufed Thomas Swinnerton of Butter- ton hall, in the county of Stafford, efq; and died in 1795., leaving iffue three daughters *f*. The eftate is (till very considerable ; but the demefnes of the priory were origi- nally of greater extent. Befides a wood, named Coed y Prior, ftretching under the Blorenge, which ftill belongs to Mr. Swinnerton ; a farm, now called Chapel Farm, at the foot of the Derry, and a park occupying part of the Derry and llolben, and reaching to the bottom of the Sugar Loaf, were once the property of the priory. There are alfo fome pieces of ground, (till called the Priory Meads, and Monk's field, part of the ancient manor of Monk's town, which were pur- chafed by counfellor Roberts of Abergavenny, from Mr. Francis Lewis of Lan- dewi Rytherch, to whofe anceftors they were probably granted by Henry the eighth. The great tythes, likewife, of feveral rectories in Monmouthihire, were parcels of this priory, and at the diflblution appropriated to the maintenance of the grammar fchool Some remains of the priory ftill exift ; they are joined to the nave of the church, and have been converted into a modern houfe, which was the refidence of the refpeclable families of Gunter and Milborne, but is now untenanted. The * Willis's Hiftory of Mitred Abbies, vol. a. p. Hz. f See the chapter on Wonaftow. J See chapter 17, i8 4 C H A P T E It 19. The ancient chapel of the priory is now the parifh church ; it fecms to have been originally built in the fhape of a cathedral, but has undergone many alter- ations, and confifts of a nave and north aifle, part of a tranfept with a tower in the middle, a choir, with two aifles, and a chancel. The windows and arches are all gothic, but in the tranfept are the remains of a circular arch, now filled up, which has the appearance of Norman architecture. The length from eaft to well is 172 feet, the breadth of the nave and north aifle 45, and of the choir and two fide aifles 67. The nave is feparated from the north aifle by three gothic arches of different heights and breadths, and an opening of an oblong fhape with a flat roof, which has a fingular and heterogeneous ap- pearance*. The choir retains its original ftatc, with flails on each fide, of oak coarfeiv carved; the feat of the prior is furmounted with a mitre ; but from what caufe this diflinclicn was derived I could not afcertain -f. In this church are many ancient and curious monuments ; part of the fouth aifle of the choir is called the Herbert chapel, becaufe it was the cemetery of feveral branches of that illuftrious family feated in the vicinity ; it likewife con- tains monuments of other memorable perfonages, who were lords of Abergavenny. All the accounts of thefe fepulchral memorials which have fallen under my obfer- vation, are extremely fcanty and inaccurate, except a curious defcription from an old manufcript printed in Gough's edition of Camden, and that of the rhyming poetafter j whom I have often quoted, and found a better Cicerone than all the fucceflive writers on Monmouthfhire, who have done nothing more than tran- fcribe paflages from Gough, On * The fpring of the middle arch is 45 feet io privilege on any of its cells to aflume the mitre, inches, the height 14. feet 4. inches. The fpring of It probably arofe from fome fpecial grant to the the fmalleft arch is only 8 feet 6 inches, and the height prior of Abergavenny ; fuch grants were not un- 15 feet. The height of the oblong opening 25 feet 4. uliial ; for there were mitred priors as well as mitred inclics, and the breadth 9 feet 7 inches. The pillars abbots, though the former did not, perhaps, fit in par- are of equal height, the fliafts meafuring 10 feet. liament. f The abbey of St. Vincent's in Mans was a mitred J Churchyard. Worthines of Wales, p. 55. — 62. Abbey ; but that circuinllance did not confer the 4 CHURCH OF ABERGAVENNY. 185 On the fouth fide, in a recefs of the wall, ornamented with gothic niches, is a rude figure in ftone, of a knight crofs legged, clad in a coat of mail, a helmet on his head, the left hand on his breaft, the right clafping the hilt of his fword. His feet repofe on a greyhound, from which an abfurd legend has been invented, and the old fexton never fails to relate the ftory : the knight returning home faw a cradle, in which was his infant fon, overturned, the child covered with gore, and a greyhound Handing by with his mouth bloody. Convinced that the dog had worried the child, he killed it on the fpot, but foon difcovered that the faithful animal had faved the infant by deftroying a ferpent which attacked it, and that the gore was the blood of the ferpent ; in memory of his regret and gratitude, he caufed the figure of the dog to be placed on his tomb. The perfon here buried is unknown, but fuppofed to have been a flranger, and a knight templar. The account of his arms, which are now defaced, given by Churchyard, might lead one more verfed in heraldry than myfelf to difcover his family *. On the north fide of the fecond arch of the choir, lies a recumbent effigies in freeftone, of a man with his hands uplifted in a fhort coat of mail ; on his head is a helmet, vn the left arm a fhield, a long fword on the fame fide, on his right a dagger, and at his feet a bull ; the figure is leven feet in length. From the image of the bull a legend, no lets abfurd than that of the greyhound, has been invented, and is thus related in the rude ftyle of Churchyard: " His force was much, for he by ftrength, " With bull did ftruggle fo, " He broke cleane off his homes at length, " And therewith let him go." The perfon here buried, was probably fir Edward Nevill, who became baron of Abergavenny in right of his wife Elilabeth, daughter of Richard de Beau- champ, In * " Three golden lions e ay, u Nine flower deluces there likewife ** His amies doth full difplay." Worthmes of Wales, p. 55, B b ,86 CHAPTER 19. In the middle of the chapel is ti monument, richly carved in alabafter, of fir William ap Thomas, and his wife Gladys, the parents of William Herbert firft earl of Pembroke, of that name, and of fir Richard Herbert of Coldbrook. Their effigies lie in a recumbent pofture on the top of the fepulchre : he is habited in a complete fuit of armour, with a dagger hanging from a rich belt ; his head repofes on the buft of a blackamoor, which was his creft, and is ftill borne by fome branches of the family * ; his feet reft on a lion. His wife is drelfed in a clofe garment covered with a loofe robe, and repofes on a cufliion, fupported by two fmall figures, much dilapidated, but which appear to have been angels; at her feet are two dogs. On each fide of the tomb are twelve fmall whole length alabafter figures in relievo, holding fcrolls ; thofe on the fouth fide are faid to reprefent the twelve apoftles, thofe on the north are proba- bly martyrs ; one has a fword hanging from his girdle. At the eaftern end is a larger compartment, much broken, containing the falutation of the Virgin Mary, with an angel on each fide. Sir William was fon of Thomas ap Gwillim, buried at Lanfanfraed, by Maud, daughter of fir John Morley, from whom he inherited the caftle of Raglan. He is principally known as the father of William Herbert earl of Pembroke, and of fir Richard Herbert of Coldbrook ; but he was a man of diftinguifhed valour, and in 141 5 was created knight banneret -f for his military at enleve- ments. Gladys his wife was daughter of fir David Gam, and widow of fir Roger Vaughan, both of whom fell in defending the perfon of Henry the fifth at the memorable battle of Agincourt, and were knighted as they lay extended on the field of battle in the agonies of death "{'. The allies of fir Richard Herbert of Coldbrook, and of his wife Margaret, daugh- ter of fir Thomas ap Griffith §, knight, repofe beneath an alabafter monument, under the furtheft arch between the chapel and the choir. Their figures are re- cumbent, with uplifted hands; he is reprefented in a fuit of mail with his head bare, and * Jones's of Lanartb, and the Powells of Perthir, § See an interefting account of fir Thomas ap Grif- Some fuppofe it to be a friar's head with a wreath. fith in the Cambrian Regilter, vol, I, f Edmonfon's Baronagium Genealogicum, p. 263. t Powell's Hiitory of Wales, p. 3*3. See alfo chap- ter 30. MO Ni'MRXTAL EJFFI GIES of S ? W "AP THOMAS * V<^y. 7. 7;SW. ly CadtU & havi.es Strand, CHURCH OF A B E R G A V E N N Y. 187 and fupported by a meaf of arrows, which was his creft ; his feet reft on a lion. His lady is habited in a long robe, her head repofes on a cufhion, fupported by two figures much broken, probably angels, and her feet reft on two dogs. The fides of the fepulchre are decorated with fmall figures in relievo holding efcut- cheons , but the whole is fb defaced, that fcarcely any of the images can be afcertained, except thofe of St. George and the dragon, and of the virgin and child. Sir Richard was the proprietor of Coldbrook houfe near Abergavenny, and as he principally refided there, was diftinguiftied by the appellation of fir Richard Herbert of Coldbrook. He was a man of uncommon height and prowefs, and in the days when heavy armour was worn, and perfonal ftrength an object of high confideration, greatly fignalifed himfelf in feats of arms. During the civil wars between the houfes of York and Lancafter he adhered to the white rofe, and aflifted in raifing Edward the fourth to the throne. He followed the ftand- ard of his brother the earl of Pembroke to the battle of Banbury, and difplayed fuch ftriking inftances of courage and force, as are fcarcely to be equalled in the annals of chivalry. The curious circumftances which preceded and accom- panied his capture and death, are related by his noble defcendant lord Herbert of Cherbury. " The earl of Pembroke having with his brother fir Richard Herbert ap- " prehended feven brothers in Anglefey, who had committed many murthers, *' commanded them to be hanged. The mother entreating him to pardon two " or at leaft one of her fons, afTuring him that the reft were enough to fatisfy " juftice as examples, her requeft was feconded by fir Richard Herbert; but " the earl finding them all guilty, faid that he would make no diftinction be- *' tween them, and ordered them all to be executed ; at which the mother was " fo aggrieved, that with a pair of wooden beads at her arms, fhe on her knees " curft him, praying that God's mifchief might fall in the firft battle that he " fttould make. " The earl of Pembroke having arranged his men in order of battle, found B b 2 " his X 88 CHAPTER 19, " his brother fir Richard Herbert {landing at the head of his troops, leaning upon " his pole-ax in a fad andpenfive manner; whereupon the earle faid, what doth thy " great body, for he was higher by the head * than any one in the army, appre- " hend any thing, that thou art fo melancholy, or art thou weary with marching, " that thou doff loan upon thy pole-ax ? Sir "Richard Herbert replied, that hewas " neither of both, whereof he fhotild fee the proof prefently, only I cannot but " apprehend on your part, leaft the curfe of the woman with wooden beads fall u upon you." His actions in this memorable combat did not belie his words, for with his pole-ax he paffed and returned twice through the enemy's army, killing with his own hand 140 men ; which according to the noble biographer, is " more " than is famed of Amadis de Gaul, or the knight of the Sun The valorous efforts of this puiflant knight and his affociates were on the point of obtaining the victory, when the Welfh troops, miflaking a fmall corps of the enemy for the advanced guard of the Lancaftrian army under the earl of Warwick, were feifed with a panic, and fled on all fides. Thofe who bravely remained on the field of battle were either killed or taken prifoners ; among the latter was fir Richard Herbert, who with his brother the earl of Pembroke was led in triumph to Banbury, and fentenced to death on the following day. " Much lamentation, and no lefs entreaty were made to fave his life, both for his goodly perfonage, and for the noble chivalry which he haddifplayed in the field of battle;" but all entreaties were ineffectual, the fentence was carried into execution, and fir Richard Herbert fuffered death with fpirit and refignation. Some perfons miflake the tomb of fir Richard Herbert for that of his brother; and others fuppofe that the earl of Pembroke was alfo buried in this church in fome other place. It is certain that in his will dated the day of his death, he ordered his body to be interred in the priory of Abergavenny, between the tomb of his father and the chancel ; yet notwithftanding this pofitive injunc- tion, he appears to have been buried in Tintern abbey j'. The * " Medio dux agmine Turnus " Vertitur arma tenens, et toto vertice supra est." ^Eneis, lib. 9. v. 19. t Life of lord Herbert of Cherbury, p. 7^9. % See his will in Dugdale's Baronage, vol. 3. p. 157, CHURCH OF ABERGAVENNY. 189 The richeft monument in the church is that of fir Richard Herbert of Ewias, fon of William firft earl of Pembroke, and anceftor of the earls of Pem- broke and Caernarvon. It is placed in a recefs of the fouth wall : the effigies is recumbent, with uplifted hands, habited in a coat of mail; the head uncovered repofes on a helmet, and the feet reft on a lion. Above are the Herbert arms, per pale azure and gules, three lions rampant argent, a battoon over, impaled with azure, three boars heads, between eight crofs crofllets argent, the arms of his wife Margaret, who was the daughter of fir Matthew Cradock, knight, of Swanfey, Glamorganfhire. At the back of the monument are feveral fmall figures carved in alabafter; the large ft of which is that of a woman afcending to heaven, fup- ported by an angel under her feet, and feveral others hovering about hers a man in armour and a woman are kneeling below. This figure is ufually fuppofed to be the lady ot fir Richard Herbert, but certainly reprefents the afcenfion of the Virgin Mary. The kneeling figures are thofe of fir Richard Herbert and his lady; on each fide are their three fons in armour, and a daughter kneeling; over are efcutcheons charged with the Herbert and Cradock arms. A long and narrow flip of brafs, containing an infcription, was fixed on the edge of the monument ; part of the brafs remains, part is fallen, but the marks on the ftones are yet vifible : " HlC JACET RlCHARDUS HERBERT DE Ew Y AS, MILES, QUI OBIIT " NONO DIE * * * * ANNO REGNI REGIS HeNRICI OCTAVI, SECUNDO; ** CUIUS AN I MJE PROPITIETUR JeSU. AmEN." Although this chapel was the burial place of the Herbert family feated at Coldbrook,yet it does not contain any other memorial, excepting a flat fepulchral ftone between the monuments of fir William ap Thomas, and fir Richard Herbert. The infcription commemorates the laft male of the Coldbrook branch, and is here inferted, becaufe it afcertains the exact fituation of the two above-mentioned monuments, and tends to illuftrate the genealogy of the family, " HERE J9& CHAPTER 19. " HERE LIETH THE BODY OF SIR JAMES " HERBERT OF COLDBROOK, KNT. " WHO DEPARTED THIS LIFE Y 6 th figned by the minifter and principal landholders, which is inferted in the Appendix. • For another iaftance of his family pride, fee the chapter on Perthiri 206 C II APTE R 21. Appendix. The church, an ancient building, in the early ftyle of gothic archi- tecture, ftands on the eaftern bank of the Gavcnny, from which fituation the parilh, as I have before obferved, is divided into citra and ultra. In the vale to the north of the church are two fulling mills, and dye houfes, the only remains of that manufactory of woollen cloth which formerly flourilhed at Abergavenny. Continuing our ride from Landeilo, we palled an ancient rnanfion, called the White Houfe, the refidence of the Floyers, entered the Hereford road, and afcending the Derry, crofted the Kibby, a mountain ftream,. which flows through the dingle feparating the Derry and the Rolben,. mounted the fides of the Rolben, and came to another dingle, which lies between the Rolben: and Graig Lanwenarth. The precipitous fides of thefe dingles are mantled with thickets of oak, and watered by torrents, which heighten the effect of the ro- mantic fcenery, by their inceflant roar and gliftening foam. We rode up the bed of this ftream, and then afcended the fides of the Graig Lanwenarth, thickly covered with underwood, until we reached the foot of the Sugar Loaf. We then rode along the heathy margin which forms the brow of the Rolben, and defcending from our horfes, walked down its fleep fide, and pafled through a trench and bank, ftill called the park wall, which runs along the tops of the Derry and Rolben, and enclofes a circumference of not lefs than four or five miles ; formerly a park belonging to the priory. Mr. Dinwoody pointed out to me the lodge, now a farm houfe, pleafantly fituated in the midft of a wood, be- tween the Derry and the Rolben, and juft below the fource of the Kibby. We continued our defcent to a place called Port y Park, or Park Gate, in the midft of wild foreft fcenery, then turned to the eaft, crofted the Kibby, and went down the fides of the Derry to the Hill Houfe, a delightful place, belonging to Mr. Morgan, overlooking Abergavenny and the vale of the Ufk, with the Little Skyrrid, fwelling in the back ground. In our progrefs we pafTed the refervoir, fupplied by the water of the Kibby for the ufe of the town; and returned through Abergavenny to Twy Dee. I was much pleafed with this excurfion 3 the hills abound with picturefque fcenes., VIEW FROM THE LITTLE SKYRRID*. 207 fcenes, and command extenfive profpects. At one time, enveloped in wood, we faw nothing but furrounding trees, and " The wild brook babbling down the mountain's fide j" at another, burft upon profpects equally grand, extenfive, and diverfified. On the morning in which I took my departure from the hofpitable manfion of Twy Dee, Mr. Dinwoody accompanied me to the fummit of the Little Skyrrid. The view from the Sugar Loaf and the Great Skyrrid is more fublime and ex- tenfive ; but this profped is the moft delightful and elegant in Monmouthfhire : it is iufficiently diftant to produce the effect of landfcape ; yet not fo extenfive as to render the objects indiftinct. Beneath, the vale ftretches from Crickhowel to the Clytha hills, watered by the Ufk, meandring through rich tracts of corn, pafture, and wood, occafionally loft in the midft of thickets, and again burfting into view. Above the right bank of this beautiful river, extend the chain of wooded eminences, from the extremity of the Blorenge to the rich groves of Pont y Pool park ; from the left fweeps the fertile diflrict in which the man- fions of Clytha, Lanarth, and Lanfanfraed are fituated. The diftant and cul- tivated parts of Herefordihire prefent themfelves on each fide of the majeftic and independent Skyrrid. To the weft of the Skyrrid, rifes an enormous mafs of mountains ; among which are moft confpicuous the long line of the Biack mountains, the rutfet top of the Brynaro, the towering point of the Sugar Loaf, and the magnificent fwell of the Blorenge. The four undulating eminences which fupport the Sugar Loaf are peculiarly difcriminated, and Abergavenny, feated at their feet, is feen to the greateft advantage. As we caught a bird's eye view of the town, with its white houfes illuminated by the rays of : meridian fun, and relieved by the furrounding verdure, it appeared like t picture of a camera obfcura. Turning our eyes to the fouth, we looked down upon Coldbrook houfe, which (lands at the foot of the hill, and embofbmed in wood, exhibits the appearance of an elegant and placid retirement. Part of this eminence belongs to lord Abergavenny, and part to Mr. Hanbury Williams, who hasaleafeof the remainder. He has made fome pleafant rides around the fide.-: and 2o8 C H A P T E R 21. and fummit, which are delightful from the contrail of the furrounding fcenery ; varying from plain to mountain, and from fertility to wildnefs. From this point Mr. Dinwoody turned my attention to the regular feries of fortrcffes, which itretch diagonally through the midland parts of the count}'-, from the confines of Herefordfhire to the Severn, and which he juftly fuppofes were ere&ed not only to keep the natives in fubjecliion, but as a line of forti- fication to prevent the incurfions of the neighbouring mountaineers, who always entertained the greateft animofity againft the inhabitants of the lowlands, and whom they confidered as the valfals of their Saxon invaders*, • Sec the introductory chapter on the caflles of Monmotuhfliire, /. N HISTORICAL TOUR I N MONMOUTHSHIRE; &C. FART THE SECOND. This Work was intended to be compriied in one Volume, and is paged accord- ingly; but the extent of the Narrative, and the number of Pl ates, which, amount to no lefs than Ninety, having fvvelled it beyond the limits originally propofed, it was deemed too bulky for a fingle Volume, and is therefore divided into Two Parts, A N HISTORICAL TOUR I N ■MONMOUTHSHIRE ILL US TR A TE D WITH VIEWS BY SIR R. C. HOARE, BART. A NEW MAP OF THE CO U N T Y, AND OTHER ENGRAVINGS BY WILLIAM COXE, A.M. RR.S. F.A.S. RECTOR OF BEMERTON AND STOURTON. PART THE SECOND. LONDON: PRINTED FOR T. CADELL, JUN. AND W. DAYIES, IN THE STRAND. 1801. Luke Hanfard, Printer, Great Turnftile, Lincoln's.Inn Fields,; CONTENTS. PART THE SECOND. Chapter 22. Excurfion to Lanthony Abbey. — Situation and Ruins. — Hiftory page 209 Chap. 93. Excurfions into the Mountains in the Vicinity of Lanvihangel. — Oldcaftle. — Cha- racter of Lord Cobham. — Encampment above Trewyn Houfe. — Altyrynys. — Camp-on Hill and Houfe. — Langua.— -Summit of the Gaer. — Situations and Forms of the adjacent Mountains. — Vale of Langruny. — Junction of the Three Counties. — Coed y Gruny.— Maffacre of Richard Earl of Clare — — — — — 220 Chap. 24. Excurfion from Abergavenny to Blaenavon. — Rife and Progrefs of the Iron Works. — Route through the Valley of Avon Lwyd to Pont y Pool — — 227 Chap. 25. Pont y Pool. — Japan Manufacture. — Anecdotes of the Hanbury Family. — Pont y Pool Park and Houfe. — Trevethin Church — — — - — 233 Chap. 26. Excurfions from Pont y Pool into the Weftern Parts of Monmouthfhire. — Val- liesof the Great and Little Ebwy.— Aberyftwith.— Nant y glo. — Lanhiddel.— - Return to Pont y Pool — — — ■ — — — — 245 Chap. 27. Excurfion from Pont y Pool to Crumlin Bridge and Rifca. — Junction of the Great and Little Ebwy. — Valley of the Ebwy.— Newbridge. — Abercarn.— Rifca. — Ex- curfion from Rifca to Penllwyn. — Bydwellty. — Crofs Pen Main — — 255 Chap. 28. Road from Pont y Pool to Abergavenny.— Mamhilad. — Lanover. — Church. — Ancient Families of Cecil and Rumfey. — Excurfions to Coed y Prior and Goytre - 264 Chap. 29. Coldbrook Houfe. — Proprietors. — Anecdotes of Sir Charles Hanbury Wil- liams — — — — — ___ — 270 Chap. 30. Upper and Lower Roads from Abergavenny to Monmouth. — Landeilo Cref- feney. — Family of Lewis. — Portraits and Anecdotes of Thomas and James Howell.— VefHges of the Court Houfe, the Refidence of Sir David Gam. — Remains of the Abbey of Grace Dieu — — • — — — — — 283 Part II. b Chap. 31. CONTENTS. Gimp. 3 1 . Monmouth.— Charter. — Population. — Monmouth Caps. — Free School.— Church of St. Mary. — Ancient Priory. — Study of Geoffrey of Monmouth. — Obfervations on his Hlftory. — Church of St. Thomas. — Chippenham Meadow. — Kymin. — View from the Pavilion — — — — — — — page 290 Chap. 32. Monmouth, ancient Bleftium. — A Saxon Fortrefs. — Ruins of the Caftle. — Kiftory and Proprietors. — Anecdotes of Henry the Fifth before his Acceffion — 302 Chap. 33. Branches of the Herbert Family.— Powells of Perthir. — Anecdote of Mr. Proger. — Troy Houfe. — Collection of Portraits. — Treowen. — Wonatlow Houfe. — Families of Herbert and Milbome. — Excurlion to Trelech. — Road from Chepftow to Monmouth 314 Chap. 34. White Caftle. — Scenfreth. — Newcaftle. — Remarkable Oak. — The Graig. — Caftle of Grofmont. — John of Kent — — — — — 326 Chap. 3 5. Excurfion down the Wy.— Charadteriftic Features of the River. — Navigation from Rofs to Monmouth. — Goodrich Caftle. — Courtfield. — W ellh Bicknor Church.— Sepulchral Effigies of the fuppofed Countefs of Salifbury. — Proprietors of Welfh Bicknor.— Family of Vaughan. — Coldwell Rocks.— New Weir. — Monmouth — — 340 Chap. 36. Navigation of the Wy. — From Monmouth to Tintern. — Ruins of the Abbe\ Church. — From Tintern to Chepftow — — — — — 350 Chap. 37. Chepftow. — Situation. — Height of the Tide. — Bridge. — Trade. — Ancient Priory. ■ — Church. — Priory of St. Kynemark. — Remarkable Well. — Situation of the old Bridge 357 Chap. 38. Caftle of Chepftow or Striguil. — Defcription. — Hiftory and Proprietors - 365 Chip. 39. Harry Marten's Tower. — Apartment in which he was confined. — Anecdotes of his Life — — — — — — — 378 Chap. 40. Piercefield. — Proprietors. — Anecdotes of Valentine Morris. — Houfe. — Grounds. — Wynd Cliff — — — — — — — 392 APPENDIX. No. 1. Letter from Mr. Owen, Author of the W r elfh and Englifh Dictionary; containing Remarks on the Structure of the Wellh Language, and on the Characteriftics of the Gwentian Dialect; accompanied with two Odes — — — 405 No. 2. A Paper on the ancient Limits of Morgannoc, or Siluria ; extracted from the Mvvirian Archaeology of Wales, vol. 2. No. 3. Account of the Encampments of Coed y Caerau, Kemeys Folly, Caerlicvn, Gaer Vawr, and Cwrt y Gaer. Addition to Chapter 5 — — — 412 No. 4. Abftract of the Charter of Newport in the County of Monmouth; (referred to in p. 46.) Amount of Tonnage on the Monmouth (hi re Canal, for One Year, commencing Septem- ber 9, 1798 — — — — — — — 413 No. 5. Conftitution of the Court of Sewers, in the Level of Wentloog; referred to Chapter 9. Communicated by the Rev. Mr. Evans — — — 416 No. 6. Addition to Chapter 10, on Caerleon ; referred to in p. 80. — Etymology of Caer- leon, in a Note from Mr. Owen — — — — — 417 No. 7. CONTENTS. No. 7- Diflertation on the Infcription engraven on a Brafs Plate in the Church of Ufk, (referred to in page 133-) containing Explanations by Dr. Wooton, the Rev. Air. Evans, Vicar of St. Woolcs, and a Letter on the fame Subject from Mr. Owen page 418 No. 8. A true Coppie of an antient memorable Treatife of Record touchinge the Progenie Si Defcent of the honourable Name and Family of the Herberts, by Commiffion from E. 4. An°Dom. 1460; referred to in page 141 — ■ — — — 421- No. 9. Remaiks on the Herbert Genealogy. Addition to Chapter 16, p. 153 — 422 No. 10. Infcription in the Chancel of Lanarth Church; referred to in page 158 - 423 No. 11. Omiflion in Chapter 17, on the Population of Abergavenny — 425 No. 12. Addition to Chapter 19, relative to the Tomb of one of the Haftings Family in Abergavenny Church. — — - — . — — — ibid. No. 13. Tranflation of a Grant fn the Churcli Cheft of Lantilio, or Landeilo Berthollv, Monmouthfhire; referred to in p. 205 — ■ — — — — 426 No. 14. Additions to Chapter 30. — Fac-fimile of the Seal of the Abbey of Grace Dieu, mentioned in p. 289. — Account of Caeluch -— — — — 427 No. 15- Addition to Chapter 31, on Monmouth — — — — ■ ibid. No. 16. Papers relative to the Trade of Chepftow, referred to in p. 360. — 428 No. 17. Omiflion in Chapter 40, concerning the Genealogy and Arms of the Wood Family, p. 397 ~ — — — — — — 431 A Lift of the Principal Books occafionally confulted in the Courfe of this Publication 432 Antiquities recently difcovered at Caerleon — ■ — — — 433 Additions to the Account of John of Kent — 433* b 2 DIRECTIONS for the PLATES. As fome of the Plates contain two or more Subjects, defcribed in different Parts of the Work, the Chapters in which each of thofe Subjects are refpectively mentioned, are fpecified in this Lift. A few Miftakes made by the Engraver in fome of the Names, are alfo here corrected. PART THE SECOND I. VIEWS. 25. Ruins of Lanthony Abbey to face page an. 26. North View of Lanthony Abbey - 212. 27. South View of Lanthony Abbey - - - 214. 28. Weft View of Lanthony Abbey 216. 29. Eaft View of Lanthony Abbey 218. 30. Oldcaftle, chap. 23. -------7 Covered Bridge at Blaenavon, chap. 24. - - - - \ ' " " " 22I> 31. Iron Works at Blaenavon - ---------- - 228. 32. View of the Mountains from Mr. Waddington's Grounds - - - - 265. 33. View of Monmouth ----------- - 291. 34. Remains of the Priory at Monmouth, and - - - - 7 Geoffrey of Monmouth's Study ------- ^ ~ ~ ' ~ 2 95' 35. Church of St. Thomas, and Monnow Bridge ------- 299. 36. Infide of St. Thomas's Church - -- -- -- -- -- - 299. 37. View DIRECTIONS for the PLATES. — Part II. 17. View of the Hills in the environs of Monmouth, - chap. 31. - -- -- -- -- -- -- Elevations of the Door of St. Thomas's Church and Chancel, chap. 31. and -------- Infide View of Monmouth Caftle, chap. 32. - - - > to face fage 300. 38. View of Monmouth Caftle, Church, &c. chap. 32. Bridge over the Wy at Monmouth, chap. 31.- - 39. Trelech Church Druidical Stones } ] — _ n 02. 40. View ©f White Caftle - - - 41 . Bridge and Caftle of Scenfreth - 42. Entrance to Grofmont Caftle Village and Caftle of Scenfreth 43. Grofmont Church Scenfreth Church } 44. Grofmont Caftle - -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 45. Outfide View of Tintern Abbey - ------- 46. Infide of Tintern Abbey, Weft View -------- 47. Infide of Tintern Abbey, Eaft View - -- -- -- -- 48. Bridge and Caftle at Chepftow - - 49. Elevation of Chepftow Bridge - -- -- - . 1 Pier and Platform - - - - - - -- -__("""" 3 2 3- 328. 33°- 33 2 - 335- 33 6 - 35 1 - 35 2 - 354- t;o. Chepftow Church, Outfide View - - Elevation of the South fide of the Nave 51. Weftern Entrance of Chepftow Church 52. Weft View of Chepftow Caftle - - - Entrance to Chepftow Caftle - - - - 360. 362. 3 6 4- - 37° 53. South View of Chepftow Caftle ^4. Outfide View of Harry Marten's Tower, chap. 38. - Y Infide View, chap. 39. ------- - j 37 2 - 378- §£. View of Piercefield Hcufe and Grounds - -- -- - _ 397. II. PORTRAITS, DIRECTIONS for the P L AT E S.— Part II. II. PORTRAITS. 9. John of Kent ------------ - / 0 face page 338. 10. Monumental Effigies in the Church of Welfli Bicknor - - - - 344. 11. Henry Mart/n (Marten) chap. 1, and 39. --------- 38 r. III. PLANS OF TOWNS. 6. Plan of Monmouth - -- -- -- -- -- ---- 2 gi. 7. Plan of Chepftow ------------ - . IV. GROUND PLANS OF ANCIENT CASTLES AND ENCAMPMENTS. 10. Ground Plans of Lanthony Abbey, chap. 22. and - 7 Tin tern Abbey, chap. 36.- - - - - - - - - 3" 20 9* 11. Ground Plans of Scenfreth - -- -- -- -") Grofmortt, and - - - > - - ** - - - - > - * - - %Vf* White Caitles, chap 34. - -- -- -- -- J 12. Plan of Chepftow Caftle - -- -- -- -- -J Fig. 1, and 2. North and South Wall of the Chapel - J» - - - - 368. Fig. 3. Saxon Doorway - -- -- -- -- J 13. Encampment in Piercefield Grounds - ~\ Piercewood -- -------f Gaer Hill, and - - 376. Hardwick, chap. 38.-- - - -- -- -- J 14. Plan of Piercefield Grounds - -- -- -- -- -- - 399. 1 5. Encampments of Cwrt y Gaer, near Wolves' Newton T Portcafieg, and -----> - -- -412. Gaer Vawr, Appendix, No. 3. ------- J 16. Encampments of Coed y Caerau ------ 1 Kemeys Foil)', and ------->--- - 41 2. Caeriicyn, Appendix, No. 3. -------J Fac Simile of tho Infcription in the Church of U/k ----- 418. _-V.//w/ del* ■ — ■ ' Tt.-.'rfailp'tt 1 ■ [ 20 9 3 CHAPTER 22. Excwjion to Lanthony Abbey. — Situation and Ruins. — Hi/lory. Ifc JTY friend Mr. Wyndham was the firft modern tourift, who turned the at- tention of the traveller to the ruins of Lanthony abbey ; his animated though brief defcription excited my curiofity, and in the courfe of my fuccemve journies, I paid feveral vifits to the Vale of Ewias, in which thefe remains arc fituated, and received each time new impreffions of delight. The accefs to the Vale of Ewias though unfafe for carriages, is not difficult on horfeback, and the latter part of the way is extremely interefting to pedeftrian travellers ; pleafant walks lead through the fields, above the precipitous banks of the Honddy, and prefent a conftant fucceffion of romantic fcenery, which is concealed from thofe who traverfe the hollow roads in carriages or on horfeback. The ufual route from Abergavenny to Lanthony, paries along the Hereford road, on the eaftern fide of the Derry and Brynaro, to Lanvihangel Crickhornel ; from whence it proceeds towards the Honddy, and inftead of crofting that dream, con- tinues on the weftern bank, through Lower and Upper Stanton. A fhorter but more rugged way leads by a withered elm, near the four mile ftone, and turning round the northern fide of the Brynaro, joins the former road at Lower Stanton. Having bruifed my foot in an expedition to the mountains, 1 made my firft ex- curfion in a poft ehaife, in company with the fonof my friend fir Richard Hoarc. We turned by the fcathed elm, into a narrow and hollow road, which we tra- veled with extreme difficulty, and pafled the hamlets of Lower and Upper Stanton. After catching a tranfient view of the Honddy, winding through a deep E e glen, , lo CHAPTER 22. glen, at the foot of hills overfpread with wood and fprinkled with white cot- tages, we proceeded along a hollow way, which deepened as we advanced, and was fcarcely broad enough to admit the carnage. In this road, which with more propriety might be termed a ditch, we heard the roar of the torrent beneath,, but feldom enjoyed a view of the circumjacent fcenery. We palled under a bridge, thrown acrofs the chafe, to preferve the communication between the fields on each fide ; this bridge was framed of the trunks of trees, and fecured with fide rails, to prevent the tottering paflenger from falling into the abyfs be- neath. It brought to my recollection feveral bridges of a- fimilar conftruction, which I had obferved in Norway, and which are likewife occafionally ufed as aqueducts, for the purpofes of irrigation, Emerging from this gloomy way, we were ftruck with the romantic village of Cwmyoy, on the oppofite bank of the Honddy, hanging on the fides of abrupt cliffs, under a perpendicular rock broken into enormous fiflures. We continued for fome way between the torrent and the Gaer, and again plunged into a hollow road where we were inclofed, and faw nothing but the overhanging hedge-rows.. I would not recommend timid perfons to pafs this way in a carriage, for in the whole courfe of my travels, I feldom met with one more inconvenient and un- fafe. Excepting in very few places, there is not room for a fingle horfe to pafs by a chaife y and (hould two carriages meet, neither could proceed, until one was drawn backwards to a confiderable diftance. The fail is boggy in wet,, and rough in dry weather ; the ruts worn by the fmall Welfh cars are extremely deep, and oftentimes we w : ere prevented from being overturned only by the narrownefs of the road,, and the fteepnefs of the fides, which would not allow the carriage to fall obliquely. Having at length reached the Vale of Ewias, we defcended from our carriage, and crofling the Honddy, approached the ruins,, which occupy a folitary fpot in the wild recefTes of the Black mountains. The abbey was built like a cathedral, in the fliape of a Roman crofs, and though of fmall dimenfions, is well proportioned. The length from the weftern door to the eaftern extremity is 2 1 2 feet, and the breadth, including the two ailles-, IXAWTI I O N Y AH B EY. FuMiMcd Minrh i z&oo. Vy Coded fcDavief. Strand . L ANTHONY ABBEY. 211 allies, 50 ; the length of the tranfept from north to fouth 100. It was con- ftructed ibon after the introduction of gothic architecture, and before the dilute of the Norman, and is a regular compofition of both ftyles. The whole roof, ex- cepting a fmall fragment in the north aifle, is fallen down, and the building is extremely dilapidated. The nave alone exhibits a complete fpecimen of the original plan, and is feparated on each fide from the two aifles, by eight pointed arches, reftingon piers of the fimplefh conftrudtion, which are divided from an tipper tier of Norman arches by a ftrait band or fafcia. From the fmall fragment in the northern aifle> the roof feems to have been vaulted and engroined, and the fpringing columns, by which it was fupported> are ftill vilible on the walls. Four bold pointed arches in the center of the church fupported a fquare tower, two fides of which only remain. The ornamented arch in the caftem window, which appears in the engraving in Mr. Wyndham's tour, and in that publifhed by Hearne *, is now fallen. The only veftiges of the choir are a part of the fouth wall, with a Norman door that led into a fide aifle, and the eaft end of the north wall ; a bold Norman arch, leading from the tranfept into the fouthern aifle of the choir, ftill exifts, and is reprefentcd in the eaft view. The walls of the fouthern aifle are wholly dilapidated, and the fide view of the two ranges of gothic arches, ftretching along the nave, is Angularly picturefque j the outlide wall of the north aifle is entire, excepting a fmall portion of the weftern extremity ; the windows of this part are wholly Norman, and make a grand appearance. In a word, the weftern fide is the moft elegant ; the northern the moft entirej the fouthern the moft picturefque, and the eaftern the moft magnificent. To the fouth of the tranfept is a neat little gothic chapel, with an engroined roof, in entire prefervation : it meafures 22 feet in length j 10 feet and a half in breadth, and 15 in height. To the fouth of this chapel are the remains of an oblong room, which was probably the chapter houfe ; beyond is a doorway, fimilar to that of the chapel, communicating with fome apartments now dilapidated. Remains of ancient buildings may ftill be traced in the vicinity; in a barn, * See Hearne's and Byrne's Antiquities. E e a to 212 CHAPTER 12. to the well of the rains, is a fine arch, which is fuppofed to have formed die grand entrance into the abbey. A fubterraneous paflage, faced with hewn ftone, about 4 \ feet high, has been difcovered near this place, which according to the tradition of the natives, leads under the mountains to Oidcaflki but probably was nothing more than a branch of the common fewer. While iir Richard Hoare, whom we joined at the fpot, was employed in taking the fketche.s,. which have enabled me to prefent the annexed engravings to the public, I amufed myfelf in contemplating the ruins in every point of view, and admiring the fcenery of this fequeftered but pleafing valley. Thefe beautiful remains are hailening. to decay, and the prefent generation may perhaps witnefs their deftru&ion. Mr. Wyndham has given in his tour, an accurate perfpective of the internal architecture, and Mr. Hearne has publifhed an elegant engraving of the north-eaft view.. To preferve the external appear- ance of the building from that oblivion, which will accompany its decay, en- gravings of the four principal afpedts are annexed, with a general view of the ruins, and their picturefque fituation. They prefent a different appearance from all thofe which I vifited in Monmouth fhire ; they are wholly free from ivy, and the few fhrubs which ftart from the crevices, and fringe the walls, do not con- ceal any part of the architecture. The yellow tints, which age has imparted to the grey ftone, produce a pleafing and mellow effect ; the breadth and maffive remains of the dilapidated tower, are relieved in every point of view by the mountains in the back ground, and the general character of the whole is ma- jeftic fimplicity. Thefe ruins derive alfo a peculiar beauty from their fituation in the deep vale of Ewias, which unites drearinefs and fertility, and is well adapted to monaftic folitude. The vale itfelf is fertile in corn and pafture,. occafionally tufted with trees, and enlivened by the tranfparent and murmuring Honddy; it is wholly encircled by an amphitheatre of bleak and lofty mountains, which feem to ex- clude all intercourfe with the reft of the habitable world. Hence it prefents different afpecls : in a ferene iky and glowing funfhine, the landfcape conveys the idea of a pleafing retirement ; under a loaded atmofphere, and in cloudy weather. WORTH VIEW OF I.LANTIIO'NY ABBEY. Hibltshai 'March i.zdoo. by CadcS, ScDayces, Strand. L ANTHONY ABBEY. 213 weather, gloom and drearinefs predominate. It was my good fortune to receive the firft impreffions from this romantic fcenery, under the mod favourable circumftances ; the day was ferene, the weather clear, the fun fhone in full fplen- dour, and while it foftened the rugged afpect of the furrounding mountains, threw a glow of tranfparency over the majeftic ruins. A curious account of the foundation and hiftory of Lanthony, written in Latin by a monk of the abbey, is preferved in Dugdale's Monafticon, and tran- Hated by Atkyns in the hiftory of Glocefterfhire ; I mall fubmit to the reader an abftract of this account, and interweave various circumftances from Gi- raldus Cambrenfis, and other authors, which are not mentioned by the monk of Lanthony. St. David, uncle of king Arthur, and titular faint of Wales, finding a folitary place among woods, rocks, and valleys, built a fmall chapel on the banks of the Honddy, and palled many years in. this hermitage : on his death it was unfre- quented during feveral centuries. This fmall chapel was called Lan Dewi Nant Honddu *, or the church of St. David, on the Honddy, which has been corrupted into Lanthony. In the reign of William Rufus, Hugh de Laci, a great Norman baron, fol- lowed the deer into this valley, and repofed himfelf with his fuite after the chace. William, one of his military retainers, being fatigued with heat and the rough- nefs of the way,, lay himfelf down on the grafs to refrefh himfelf. Imprelled with the wild folitude of the fcenery, heefpied the chapel of St. David, and being fud- denly impelled by religious enthufiafm, difmiffed his companions, and devoted himfelf to the ferviceof God. " He laid afide his belt," fays the monk of Lan- thony, " and girded himfelf with a rope ; inftead of fine linen he covered him- " felf with hair-cloth,, and inftead of his foldier's robe he loaded himfelf with " weighty irons. The fuit of armour which before defended him from the darts " of his enemies, he ftill wore as a garment to harden him againft the loft " temptations of his old enemy Satan, that, as the outward man was afflicted by u aufterity, the inner man might be fecured for the fervice of God. That his " seal * Pronounced Honthy. 2i 4 CHAPTER 11. " zeal might not cool, he thus crucified himfelf, and continued his hard armour " on his body until it was worn out with ruft and age." After palling feveral years alone in this folitude, the aufterity of his life, and his reputation for fanctity, induced the venerable Ernefi, chaplain to queen Maud, w ife of Henry the firft, to become his affbeiate. By their united efforts they built a fmall chapel, which in 1 108 was confecrated by Urban bithop of the diocefe, and Rameline bifhop of Hereford, and dedicated to St. John the Baptift, whole folitary life in the tvilderneis they affected to imitate. Soon afterwards Hugh de Lacl,earl of Hereford, founded, at the mitigation of Ernefi, a priory of canons regular of the order of St. Aufhin, likewife dedicated to St. John the Baptift. Ernefi was chofen prior, and under his regulations, and by his and his brother hermit's example, the new monaftery acquired fuch a repu- tation for fan&ity, ;c that the great men of the realm, as well Henry the firft and " his queen, regulated the temporal concerns of the abbey, and accounted them- " felves happy to have the prayers of this holy congregation." In confequence of this celebrity, large donations in money and lands were re< peatedly offered ; but Ernefi and his brother hermit declined all gifts, chufing, as they laid, " to dwell poor in the houfe of God." They even put up public prayers againfb an increafe of w r ealth, and deprecated every acquifition of pro« pertyas a dreadful misfortune. A whimfical anecdote on this fubjecl is related by the monk of Lanthony : " Queen Maud, not fufficiently acquainted with *' the fan&ity and difintereftednefs of William, once defired permiflion to put u her hand into his bofom; and when he with great modefty fubmitted to her " importunity, (he conveyed a large purfe of gold between his coarfe fhirt and " iron boddice,' and thus by apleaiant and innocent fubtlety, adminiftered fome " comfortable relief to him. But oh \ the wonderful contempt of the world ! " He difplayed a rare example that the trueft happinefs confifts in little or " nothing ! He complied indeed, but unwillingly, and only with a view that * 4 the queen might employ her devout liberality in adorning the church." This fcrupulous delicacy once overcome, riches poured abundantly upon the new eftablilhment ; large buildings were ereded for their convenience, and 8 a more L ANTHONY ABBEY. 215 a more magnificent church was conftmcted. The precife jera of its foundation is not afcertained; but it was undoubtedly railed between 110S and 1136, when the greater part of the monks removed to Hereford. We know, from the authority of Giraldus Cambrenfis, that in 1186 it had been long finifhedj he defcribes it as covered with lead, and not inelegantly conftru&ed, with a roof of ilone *.. The ftate and fituation of the monastery at this period are thus defcribed by the monk of Lanthony: " There Hands in a deep valley a conventual church,, " fituated to promote true religion, beyond almoft all the churches in England ; " quiet for contemplation, and retired for converfation with the Almighty ; " here the forrowful complaints of the opprefled do not dilquiet, or the mad " contentions of the froward do not difturb ; but a calm peace and perfect " charity invite to holy religion, and banifli difcord. But why do I defcribe the " fituation of the place, when all things are fo much changed fince its priftine " eftablifhment ? The broken rocks were traverfed by herds of wild and fwift " footed animals ; thefe rocks furrounded and darkened the valley, for they « were crowned with tall towering trees, which yielded a delightful profpeft, at " a great diftance, to all beholders, both by fea and land. The middle of the " valley,, although clothed with wood, and funk into a narrow and deep abyfs, " was fometimes difturbed by a ftrong blighting wind, at other times ob- " fcured with dark clouds and violent rains, incommoded with fevere frofts s< " or heaped up with mow. whilft in other places there was a mild and gentle " air. " The large and plentiful fprings from the neighbouring mountains fell with " a pleafant murmur into a river, in the midft of the valley, abounding with " n(h. Sometimes, after great rains,. which were extremely frequent, the floods, " impatient of conftraint, inundated the neighbouring places, overturning rocks, " and * " Ecclefia plumbeis laminis operta, lapideo ta- " les in clauftro fedentes cum refpirandi gratia forte " bulatu pro loci natura non indecentu extrucla. 1 ' " fufpkiunt, ad quafcunque partes trans alta teclo- Itin. Cam. c. 3. " rum culmina, montium vertices quafi caelum tan- + Thefe animals were principally deer : Giraldus " gentes, ipfafque plerumque feras (quaram hie Gambrenfis alfo mentions the herds of wild animals " copia eft) in lummo palcentes tanquam in ultimo which browfed on thefe mountains. " Hie clauftra- " vifas horizonte profpiciunt,'' 2 i6 CHAPTER 22. " and tearing up trees by the roots. Thefe fpacious mountains, however, con- ** tained fruitful paftures, and rich meadows for feeding cattle, which compen- " fated for the barrennefs of other parts, and made amends for the want of corn. " The air, though thick, was healthful, and preferved the inhabitants to an ex- " treme old age ; but the people were favage, without religion, vagabonds, and " addicted to ftealth ; they had no fettled abode, and removed as wind and u weather inclined them ." But this period of fplendour and tranquillity ceafed with the reign of Henry the firft ; during the conteft: between the. empreA Maud and Stephen, the monks were opprefT'ed, pillaged, and often grolsly infulted, by the natives. The monk of Lanthony gives in fober fadnefs a ftriking account of the fufFerings which oc- cafioned their removal from the valley of Ewias. " A neighbouring Welfhman " fought refuge from his periecutors in that confecrated place ; but his enemies, " purfuing him with inexorable malice, waylaid him in the outward court. In " this diftrefs he fled, with the women of his family, into the innermoft offices; f< the women feize the refe&ory ; and are not afhamed to ling and profane the " place with their light and effeminate behaviour. What could the foldiers of ■" Chrift do ? They are furrounded without by the weapons of their enemies ; " arms are without doors, and frights within : they cannot procure fullenance sc to fatisfy their hunger, nor attend divine fervice with accuftomed reverence, '• £ -from the vain inlblence of their ungrateful guefts. > ' In this diftrefs, they applied to Robert de Betun, bifhop of Hereford, who had fucceeded Ernefi as prior ; the bifhop, compaffionating their fufFerings, -invited them to Hereford, refigned his palace, and for two years maintained all who quitted the convent at his own charge. He then prevailed on Milo xle Laci to grant a fpot of ground, called Hyde, near Glocefter, where, with the money faved from Lanthony, and with farther fupplies from the bifhop, they built a church, in the fpace of a year, which was folemnly confecrat- ed, in 1 136, by the bifliops of Worcefter and Hereford; it was dedicated to • Speed confounds Lanthony in Monmouthfhire with Lanjliony in Glocefterfliire, and asTtrts that the £oixier was not founded before J J37 L ANTHONY ABBEY. 217 to the Virgin Mary ; and was called Lanthony, after the name of the former church. In this fpot they eftablifhed themfelves as a temporary refidence ; the new convent was a cell to the ancient monaftery, to which the majority of the monks were bound to return on the reftoration of peace and tranquillity. Milo and his family endowed Lanthony the fecond with large poffeffions ; king John alfo was a confiderable benefactor, and gave feveral grants of land. By thefe accefflons, the new Lanthony rofe in opulence and fplendour ; the monks, courted by the great, and abounding in every fpecies of luxury, were de- lighted with their fituation, and forgot the original wildernefs. They not only refufed to return, but even claimed for the new eftablifhment the pre-eminence over the mother church ; while the few who continued to refide in the valley of Ewias, were oppreffed and pillaged. The monk of Lanthony pours forth, in the moft pathetic language, doleful complaints on the defolated ftate of the mother church. " When the florm " fubfided, and peace was reftored, then did the fons of Lanthony tear up the " bounds of their mother church, and refufe to ferve God as their duty ** required ; for they ufed to fay, there was much difference between the city of " Glocefter and the wild rocks of Hatyrel ; between the river Severn and the " brook of Hodani ; between the wealthy Englifh and the beggarly Welch. " There fertile meadows, here barren heaths ; wherefore, elated with the luxuries " of their new fituation, and weary of this, they ftigmatized it as a place unfit " for a reafonable creature, much lefs for religious perfons. I have heard it " affirmed, and I partly believe it, that fome of them declared in their light " difcourfe, (I hope it did not proceed from the rancour of their hearts) * they " wiffied every ftone of this ancient foundation a flout hare.' Others have " facrilegioufly faid (and with their permiffion I will proclaim it) they wifhed the " church, and all its offices, funk to the bottom of the fea. They have ufurped " and laviffied all the revenues of the church : there they have built lofty and " ftately offices j here thev have fuffered our venerable buildings to fall to ruin. " And to avoid the fcandal of deferting an ancient monaftery, long accuftomed " to religious worlhip, and endowed with large poffeffions, they fend hither their F f " old 2 i8 CHAPTER 22. " old and ufelefs members, who can be neither profitable to themfelves or " others ; who might fay with the apoftle, ' We are made the fcum and outcaft of " the brethren.' They permitted the monaftery to be reduced to fuch poverty, " that the friars were without furplices, and compelled to perform the duties of " the church, againft the cuftom and rules of the order. Sometimes they had no " breeches, and could not attend divine fervice ; fometimes one day's bread muft " ferve for two, whilft the monks of Glocefter enjoyed fuperfluities. Our re- " monftrances either excited their anger or ridicule, but produced no alteration : " if thefe complaints were repeated, they replied, ' who would go and ring to " the wolves ? Do the whelps of wolves delight in loud mufic ?' They even " made fport, and when any perfon was fent hither, would afk, ' What fault has " he committed ? Why is he fent to prifon ?' Thus was the miftrefs and mother " houfe called a dungeon, and a place of banifhment for criminals. " Notwithstanding thefe fcandalous and cruel oppreffions, many refpecled the " mother church with the affection of a fon ; yet none ventured to fland up in " her behalf ; none dared to complain ; if any one prefumed to mutter, he " was punifhed as a heinous delinquent : all therefore acquiefced, whilft God " by his juft will, though unaccountable unto us, permitted the library to " be defpoiled of its books ; the ftorehoufe of its deeds and charters ; of its filk " veftments and relicks, embroidered with gold and filverj and the treafury " of all its precious goods. Whatever was valuable or ornamental in the • c church of St. John, was conveyed to Glocefter, without the fmalleft oppofi- " tion ; even the bells, notwithftanding their great weight, were tranfported to " the fame place." The dcfolatcd ftate of the abbey in the valley of Ewias, induced Edward the fourth to unite the two monafteries, by charter, in which he made the church near Glocefter the principal, and obliged the monks to maintain a refidentiary prior and four canons in the original abbey. It is however undecided whether this union took place j for at the diflblution of monafteries, the two abbies are feparately valued ; that near Glocefter at £.648. 19 s. 11 d. and this in Mon- mouthfhire, at £.71. 3 s. id* At this period John Ambrus was prior of Lanthony, » Dugi'ale's Monaft. According to Speed, £.-48. 01. nd. and £.112. 1 /• j'ul'h.flu J Mm rhi idoo by CatkiU hDanerJirand LANTHONY ABBEY. 219 Lanthony, in Monmouththire, and with John Nclcand, and three others, fuh- fcribed to the fupremacy in 1534*. The fite of this monaftery was granted to Richard Arnold-f- , and together with the eftate, purchafed from captain Arnold, of Lanvihangel, by auditor Harley, and is now the property of the prefent earl of Oxford. * Willis's Mitred Abbies, vol. 2. p. 142. Whar- penfion of £.100 per annum. According to Wood, ton, in his Anglk Sacra, vol. 2. p. 321. has given a he gave many ancient manufcripts, which he had catalogue of the priors, from Erneli till the difiblu- taken from the library of the abbey, to his brother, tion, when Richard Hempfted, whom Anthony in-law. — Thyre. Athena; Oxonienfes, vol. 2. p. 520. Wood calls Hart, was prior of Lanthony in Glo- t Jones's Index to the Records of the Exchequer, cefterftiire. Jn 1534 he fubfcribed to the fupremacy, art. Ricardus Arnold. Tanner calls him Nicholas with twenty-two others, and in 1539 figned the Arnold, furrender with the fame number. He obtained a [ 220 ] CHAPTER 25. Excurfions into the Mountains in the Vicinity of Lanvihangel. — Oldcajile. — Character of Lord Cobham. — Encampment above Trezvyn Houfe. — Altyrynys. — Campfon Hi/I and Houfe. — Langua. — Summit of the Gaer. — Situations and Forms of the adja- cent Mountains. — Vale of Langruny. — Juntlion of the Three Counties. — Coed y Gruny. — Majfacre of Richard Earl of Clare. ES IDES repeated vifits to Lanthony, I made various excurfions in that mountainous region which lies to the north-weft of Abergavenny ; a dif- tricTt imperfectly laid down in all the maps of Monmouthmire, and which I was therefore defirous of vifiting. From Lanvihangel Crickhornel, fituated at the ex- tremity of the pafs between the Skyrrid and the Black mountains, five miles from Abergavenny, I ufually took my departure ; here I left my chaife, and pro- ceeding on horfeback explored this interefting traft ; here I returned, and after fatiguing excurfions, fometimes walking, and fometimes riding, gladly refumed my place in the carriage, and reached Abergavenny at the clofe of the evening. My flrft excurfion was to OldcaTtle, according to Gale and Stukeley the Blef- tium of Antoninus, and the refidence of the celebrated reformer fir John Old- caftle lord Cobham. From Abergavenny, in company with fir Richard Hoare, I rode along the Hereford road, as far as Lanvihangel, then turned to the left, and proceeded to the Honddy, where the road feparates into two branches, one leading to Lanthony, and the other to Longtown in Herefordlhire. We pur- fued the latter route, crofled the river over a ftone bridge, continued at the foot of the Black mountains, and after traverfing a- fmall diftrict of Hereford- 5 ihire, JV£. direr! OLD CASTLE. /I //. del f WA- tfinx! rOVKR'l) BRIDGE AT B LAX E AVON. Publish*/ .\r„rdi i. 1B00. by ( 'add/. kJBiaAt Strand. OLDCASTLE. 221 mire, in which Trewyn houfe is fituated, re-entered Monmouthfhire. Between three and four miles from Lanvihangel, we defcried the church and village of Oldcaftle placed on the Hope of the Black mountains, and quitting the road afcended to the fpot. This little village has been magnified into a Roman ftation, and erroneoufly fuppofed by Gale and Stukeley to be the fite of the an- cient Bleftium *, although neither its pofition or appearance in the fmalleft de- gree juftify the conjecture. This opinion was founded merely on the difcovery of a few Roman coins, and on the veftiges of ancient encampments in the vici- nity. There are indeed the remains of many encampments, and the Roman road from Gobannium or Abergavenny, to Magna or Kenchefter, ran in the direction of the prefent high road from Lanvihangel to Longtown. It is therefore probable, that the Romans had fmall camps for the protection of this road, of which the fuppofed ftation of Oldcaftle may have been one. Slight traces of circular entrenchments are vifible near the church, but not fufficient to indicate either the jera or purpofe of their conftruction. Oldcaftle was remarkable as the refklence of the celebrated reformer fir John Oldcaftle lord Cobham, who is called by Horace Walpole, " the firft author, as well as the firft martyr among our nobility." He afTumed his name from this place, and became lord Cobham in virtue of his marriage with Joan -f , grand- daughter and heirefs of John lord Cobham. He was a man of great talents, fpirit, and courage ; and after being the diflblute companion of Henry the fifth, was, like his mafter, awakened to virtue by a fenfe of religion. Difgufted with the corruptions of the church of Rome, and enlightened by the arguments of Wick- liff, he became the chief of the Lollards, and fhook by his writings and example the authority of the Roman fee. His bitter reproaches againft the hierarchy ex- cited perfecution ; perfecution inflamed his ardent temper, and urged him to petulance of exprellion, and deeds of violence, which outraged even the tole- rating * See chapter on Monmouth. Brooke of Somerfetftiire ; the third fir Nicholas Haw- f She is laid to have had five hufbands ; the firft berk, who died 1407 ; the fourth was fir John Old- was fir Robert de Hemenhele, knight; the fecond caftle ; the fifth was fir Nicholas Harpeden, knight, was fir Reginald Braybrook, who died in 1405, by She died in 1433, and was buried in Cobham church, whom fhe left an only daughter, Joan, who conveyed Gough's Sepulchral Monuments, p. 103. her barony and eftates to her hufband fir Thomas 222 CHAPTER 23. rating fpirit of Henry the fifth. He was condemned for herefy and rebellion ; at the flake he difplayed the greateft calmnefs and intrepidity of mind, and gave an inftance of fingular enthufiafni, by requefting favour for the Lollards, mould he rife again the third day *. Pofterity have forgotten his defe&s in his virtues, the enthufiaft is loft in the martyr ; his death is an epoch in the annals of the church, and the reformation fprung from his afhes. The old caftle, called the court houfe, fuppofed to be the refidence of this celebrated perfonage, was taken down about thirty years ago, and a new farm houfe conftructed from the materials. Although nothing remains to fatisfy the antiquary or hiftorian, yet the traveller will be pleafed with the fingular and pidturefque fituation of the church and village, on the fides of a bleak and hcary mountain, the fummit of which overhangs the fequeftered vale of Ewias, and commands an extenfive view of the fertile diftricts of Herefordfhire and Mon- mouthlhire. The contrail between the bleak fummit of the mountain and the rich meadows beneath, which are watered by the winding Monnow, is extremely ft ri king. To the fouth of Oldcaftle, on the fame chain of the Black mountains, are the remains of an ancient encampment, on the brow of the precipice above Trewyn houfe, in the county of Hereford, but dole to the frontiers of Monmouthfhire. It confifts of an oblong rectangular entrenchment, inclofing an area of 485 feet by 240, and bears evident marks of Roman origin. On one fide is an outer and larger entrenchment, of a femicircular form, defended with a double ditch and rampart, which was probably pofterior to the original fortrefs, and added by the Britons or Saxons, when they occupied this poft ; it was an excellent fitua- tion, as well for an exploratory camp, as for the defence of the road, which ran near the foot of the eminence. This height, in addition to the extenfive objects fecn from Oldcaftle, looks down upon the recefles of the Black mountains, and commands the range of hills which ftretch from the neighbourhood of Abergavenny, beyond the frontiers of Brecknockflhire and Herefordfhire. From this encampment I walked down the fteep fide of the mountain, which overhangs Trewyn Houfe, the feat of Mr. Rofier, crofted the road to Longtown at * Walfmgham.— Dugdale, art. Cobhara. CAMPSTON HOUSE. 223 at the turnpike, continued along the left bank of the Honddy, which here forms the boundary between the two counties, and croflcd a bridge over the Monnow to Altyrynys, an ancient manfion of the Cecil family, delightfully fituated at the fpot where the Monnow and Honddy unite. The fcenery of this fequef- tered place is Angularly picturefque ; the two ftreams are clear and rapid, their banks are feathered with trees, overhanging the water ; an avenue of tall pines darkens the back ground of the picture, and the old manfion, which though confiderably reduced ftill retains figns of former magnificence, is almofl fur- rounded by the winding Monnow. Altyrynys (lands on the left bank of that river, in the hundred of Ewyas Harold, Herefordfhire ; the oppofite bank is in Monmouthfhire, and from this fpot the Monnow continues to be the boun- dary of the two counties, as far as Perthir, in the vicinity of Monmouth. Two miles from Lanvihangel, clofe to the Herefordfhire road, at the feventh mile ftone from Abergavenny, is Campftnn Hill, £b railed from an ancient encamp- ment, where, according to Harris, feveral Roman coins were difcovered ; but the fummit of the hill, which is a level common, is fo much excavated for ftone quarries, that no traces of regular entrenchments can be difcerhed. At a fmall diflance beyond, on the flope of the hill, is a farm called Campfton Houfe, once belonging to a branch of the Prichard family, where Charles the firft is faid to have pafled the night * in his progrefs through Monmouthfhire, during the civil wars. The apartment in which he flept is now ufed for a granary; but the vifit of the royal gueff. is not commemorated by any memorial, and is only known by tradition. Four miles beyond Campfton Hill, on the right of the road leading from Abergavenny to Hereford, is Languas according to Tanner Langkywan, or Lang- win, the fite of an alien priory of black monks ; a cell to the abbey of Lira in Normandy. On the diffolution of alien priories, it was annexed to the Car- thufian priory of Shene, in Surry, as parcel thereof, granted, 37 Henry VIII. to John Doyley and John Scudamore, and is now the property of John Scuda- more, * In the Iter Carolum, the king is faid to have dined only at Campfton houfe. 2 24 CHAPTER 23. more, efq. of Kentchurch. The ancient houfe has been recently taken down, and a farm built with the materials. The parifh church is pleafantly fituated on the other fide of the road, in a fequeflered vale, at the foot of a fteep declivity near the banks of the Monnow. Thefe places are fcarce worthy of being vifited as objecls of curiofity, but defcrve notice, becaufe they afford opportunities of examining this delightful country, abounding in beauties of nature, which affume new appearances as they are feen in different pofitions. The tourift ought not to omit traverfing the road from Langua to Campfton Hill ; it is a natural terrace, running on a ridge of eminences, and commanding on one fide the Graig and Garway, and on the other the Black mountains, with a full view of the Sugar Loaf and its dependent hills, and the Skyrrid with its double fummit. The laft excurfion, which I made in this mountainous diftricl:, was to the fummit of the Gaer. From Lauvihangel I purfucd the road to Longtown, which I quitted at the Honddy, and followed that leading to Lanthony, till I parled Upper Stanton, when I mounted the fides of the Gaer, a mountain partly fituated in Monmouthfhire, and partly in a diftrict of Herefordfhire called the Fothog, which is wholly infulated and encircled by the counties of Monmouth and Brecon. I afcended a fteep and ftony road, and in half an hour reached the fummit of the mountain, which is crowned with an ancient encampment. The Gaer occupying nearly the center of the great chain, which ftretches to the north and north-weft from Abergavenny, beyond the confines of Herefordlhirc and Brecknockfhire, the fituations and forms of the circumjacent mountains are plainly diftinguifhed from its fummit. The firft of this chain is the Deny, which I have already defcribed, as rifing from Abergavenny, and which fkirts the Here- ford road for the fpace of two miles ; the northern fide appears fprinkled with underwood, and the fummit is crowned by the Sugar Loaf in all its beauty. To the north of the Derry fucceeds a bare ruffet mountain of an oblong form, called the Brynaro *, which turns at the fcathed elm on the Hereford road, and ter- minates * Suppofed to be derived from Bryn-arw, or the rugged fummit. SUMMIT OF THE GAER. US minates at the foot of the Gaer. Oppofite to the Brynaro, on the eaftern fide of the Hereford road, rifes the Great Skyrrid, in all its ruggednefs, with its forked fummit eminently confpicuous. To the north of the Brynaro, and to the north-eaft of the Skyrrid, extends the long line of the Black mountains, fepa- rated from the Gaer by the valley of the Honddy; a dark and gloomy mafs, fweep- ing in a femicircular direction, and fpreading in various ramifications. In their in- moft recefles appears the deep vale of Ewias, and the fingular curvature of the dingle, which takes the name of Cwmyoi * from its lhape, and communicates it to the village, whole romantic fituation in the midfl of broken crags is peculiarly finking. To the weft of the Black mountains, and to the north-weft of the Gaer, rifes a fucceflion of eminences, bridling with crags innumerable, ftretching acrofs Brecknock (hire, and loft in the diftant counties of Wales. At the foot of the Gaer, I admired the beautiful vale of Langruny, watered by a lively tor- rent, and .terminating at the north-weftern extremity of the Deny, from which point the Lanwenarth hills border the vale of the Uik, and join the Rolben. Beyond this chain of mountains, which I have thus attempted to difcrimi- nate, the eye of the fpectator glances over the fertile parts of Monmouthlhire and Herefordfhire* backed by the diftant hills in the counties of Worcefter, Glocefter, and Somerfet, and interfered by the seftuary of the Severn, Defcending from the fummit, I continued along the Fotho'g, down the fide of the Gaer, leaving the church of Patricio, in the county of Brecon, at the dif- tance of about a mile on the right, until I reached a fmith's fhop, in the vale of Langruny, at the fide of the torrent called the Great Gruny, where the three counties of Monmouth, Brecknock^ and Hereford unite. This fpot is two miles from Lanvihangel, three from Langruny-, and five from Abergavenny, and ftands at the foot of the Deny, near the old turnpike road, which led through Lanvihangel and Stanton, and pafTed between the Brynaro and the Gaer. This diftrid was part of the great foreft of Moyle, or Moel, the liberties of which were granted by Jafper duke of Bedford, as lord of Abergavenny, to the in- habitants of Landeilo and Lanwenarth, and is ftill called the foreft. It was an- ciently * Cwmyoi, in Welfa Cwm-jau, fignifies the Dingle, or Valley of the Yokf , Gg 226 C H A PTER 23. ciently denominated from the torrent Coed y Gruny, or the wood of the Gruny^ end in times of feudal barbarifm, witnefTed the maflacre of Richard earl of Clare. Having made great conquefts in different parts of Wales, he was pafling from his caftle of Ufk to his territories in Brecknockthire. Being efcorted by Brien Fitz Count, lord of Abergavenny, with a confiderable body of troops, to the Ikirts of the foreft, he imprudently difmiffed his guard, in oppofition to the repeated remonftrances of his friendly conductor, and continued his route, with only his ufual attendants, unarmed, and preceded by two minftrels, who piped and fung alternately, as if inviting the ftroke of the afTaffin. In a narrow pafs, Jorwerth of Caerlcon, and a numerous corps of Welflimen, fuddenly rufhed from the thickets, and flew, without refiflance, the earl of Clare and his whols fuite *. From the vale of Langruny I proceeded along the level road, between ths Derry and the Brynaro, through Betius, a hamlet in the parifh of Landeilo;, which contains a fmall gothic chapel now in ruins, and entered the Hereford road about two miles from Abergavenny. * Gerakius Camb. cap. 4> L 227 3 CHAPTER 24. Mxcurfion from Abergavenny to B/aenavon. — Rife and Progrefs of the Iron Works. — Route through the Valley of Avon Livyd to Pont y Pool. TN the courfe of my expeditions I three times vifited the iron works of Blaen* avon, recently eftablifhed in the vicinity of Abergavenny, which form a new and interesting object in the tour of Monmouthfhire. From Abergavenny, in company with fir Richard Hoare, I pafled over the ftone bridge of the Ufk, along the plain between the river and the Blorenge, and went up the freep fides of the mountain, in a hollow way inclofed between high hedges-, with occafional openings, which admit different views of Abergavenny and the circumjacent country. Emerging from the thickets of wood which clothe the lower and middle parts, we afcended a common, ftrewed with vaft mafTes of rock, from whence a dreary moor leads to the fummit, overlooking the works of Blaenavon, fituated in the hollow of the mountain, near the fource of the Avon Lwyd, from which the place derives its appellation. At fome distance, the works have the appearance of a fmall town, furrounded with heaps of ore, coal, and limestone, and enlivened with all the bustle and ac- tivity of an opulent and increasing establifhment. The view of the buildings,which are constructed in the excavations of the rocks, is extremely picturefque, and heightened by the volumes of black fmoke emitted by the furnaces. While my friend fir Richard Hoare was engaged in fketching a view of this fingular fcene, of which an engraving is annexed, I employed myfelf in examining the mines and works. This fpot and its vicinity produce abundance of iron, with coal and limeftone, G g 2 and a2 g CHAPTER 24. and every article necefl'ary for fmelting the ore : the veins lie in the adjacent rocks, under ftrata of coal, and are from three and a half to fevenor eight inches in thicknefs ; they differ in richnefs, but yield, upon an average, not lefs than forty-four pounds of pig iron to one hundred weight of ore. The principal part of the iron, after being formed into pigs, is conveyed by means of the rail road; and canal to Newport, from whence it is exported. The (hafts of the mines are horizontal, penetrating one below the other, and under the coal fhafts ; iron rail roads are constructed to convey the coal and ore ; which are pufhed as far as the ihafts are worked, and gradually carried on as the excavations are extended ; the longed of thefe fubterraneous pafTages penetrates not lefs than three quarters of a mile. The coal is fo abundant as not only to fupply the fuel neceffary for the works, but large quantities are fent to Aberga- venny, Pont y Pool, and Ufk. Although thefe works were only finifhed in 1789, three hundred and fifty men are employed, and the population of the diftrict exceeds a thoufand fouls. The hollows of the rocks and fides of the hills are flrewed with numerous habitations,, and the heathy grounds converted into fields of corn and paflure. Such are the: wonderworking powers of induftry when directed by judgment ! The want of habitations for the increafing number of families, has occafioned Sin ingenious contrivance : a bridge being thrown acrofs a deep dingle for the fupport of a rail road leading into a mine, the arches, which are ten in number, have been walled up, and formed into dwellings ; the bridge is covered with a penthoufe roof, and backed by perpendicular rocks, in which the mines are excavated. Numerous workmen continually pafs and repafs, and low cars, laden with coal or iron ore, roll along with their broad and grooved wheels ; thefe objects, lofing themfelves under the roof of the bridge, again emerg- ing, and then difappearing in the fubterraneous paflages of the rock, form a fin- gular and animated picture, not unlike the moving figures in a camera obfeura. The mountainous diftrict which contains thefe mineral treafures, is held by the earl of Abergavenny, under a leafe from the crown. It was formerly let to the family of Hanbury, of Pont y Pool, for lefs than £.100 a year j and as the value of- BLAENAVON IRON WORKS. 229 of the mines was not diffidently appreciated, no works were conftructed j but the mafTes of ore found near the furface were conveyed to the forges of Pont y Pool. Soon after the expiration of the term, the diftrict was granted by another leafe to Hill and company, who began thefe works in 1788, and expended forty thoufand pounds before any return was made ; this expence, however, has been amply repaid by the produce. On confidering the rife and rapid progrefs of the iron manufactories in this dif- trict, as well as in the neighbouring mountains of Monmouthlhire and Gla- morganshire, it is a matter of wonder that thefe mineral treafures fhould have been ib long neglected. This wonder will increafe, when it is known that iron was manufactured in this country at a period beyond the reach of tradition or hiflory. Large heaps of Aug or cinder have been repeatedly difcovered, fome of which are evidently the product of bloomeries, the nioft ancient method of fufmg iron ; in other places are traced the fites of furnaces long difufed, of which no account of their foundation can be collected. The appearance of thefe iron cinders, and the vefliges of ancient furnaces, indicate that many parts of this mountainous diftrict, now wholly bare, were formerly covered with large tracts of wood ; charcoal being the only fpecies of fuel originally ufed in the operation of fmelting, both in the bloomeries and furnaces. This conjecture is corroborated by numerous names, alluding to woods and forefts, in places which have never been known to produce trees j and is frill farther afcertained by the difcovery of trunks and branches, with their leaves, under the boggy foil in the vicinity of Blaenavon, and on the neigh- bouring hills. The lands being cleared, and the forefts neglected, their deftruction was haftened by numerous herds of goats, maintained in thefe mountainous regions the want of fuel occafioned the gradual decline of the bloomeries and furnaces, and for a confiderable period little or no iron was manufactured. About forty years ago the iron works fuddenly revived, from the be- neficial difcovery of making pig iron with pit coal, inftead of charcoal, which was foon afterwards followed by the improvement of manufacturing even bar iron by means of pit coal; hence a diftrict, which contained fuch ex- tenlive 230 CHAPTER 24. tenfive mines of ore and coal, prodigious quantities of limeftone, and numerous ftreams of water, could not fail of becoming the feat of many flourifhing efta- bliihments. Befides thefe local advantages, the progrefs of the manufactories has been powerfully aided by the application of mechanics ; particularly by the ufe of the fteam -engine, and the great improvement of water machines ; but in no inftance have they derived more advantage than from the adoption of rollers, inftead of forge hammers, now ufed for the formation of bar iron, with a degree of difpatch, as well as exadhiefs, before unknown. From this concurrence of circumftances, the fuccefs has been no lets rapid than extra- ordinary : fifteen years ago the weekly quantity of pig iron made in this part of Monmouthfhire, and in the contiguous diftrict of Glamorganfhire, did not ex- ceed 60 tons ; at prefent it fcarcely falls fhort of 600 ; at that period no bar iron was manufactured ; but now the quantity amounts weekly to more than 300 tons. The works are fcill rapidly increafmg in extent and importance, and appear likely to furpafs the other iron manufactories throughout the kingdom * t In the vicinity of Blaenavon we obferved the procefs of making a rail road, fo called becaufe it is formed by a kind of frame with iron rails, or bars, laid length- ways, and fattened or cramped by means of crofs bars. The ground being excavated, about fix feet in breadth, and two in depth, is ftrewed over with broken pieces of ftone, and the frame laid down ; it is compofed of rails, flcepers, or crofs bars, and under flecpers. The rail is a bar of caft iron, four feet in length, three inches thick, and one and a half broad ; its extremities are re- fpcdlively concave and convex, or in other words are morticed and tenanted into each other, and fattened at the ends by two wooden pegs to a crofs bar called the fleeper. This fleeper was originally of iron, but experience having fhewn ] that iron was liable to fnap or bend, it is now made of wood, which is confider- ably cheaper, and requites lefs repair. Under each extremity of the fleeper is a fquare piece of wood, called the under fleeper, to which it is attached by a peg. The frame being thus laid down and filled with ftones, gravel, and earth, the iron rails form a ridge above the furface, over which the wheels of the cars glide by means of iron grooved rims three inches and a half broad. This * Fcr thefe observations I am principally indebted to Mr. Ccckfhutt. BLAENAVON IRON WORKS. 231 This is the general ftructure of the road when carried in a ftrait line ; at the junction of two roads, and to facilitate the paffage of two cars in oppofite di- rections, moveable rails, called turn rails, are occasionally ufed, which are fattened with fcrews inftead of pegs, and may be pufhed fideways. The level of the ground is taken with great exactnefs, and the declivity is in general fo gentle as to be almoft imperceptible * : the road, fometknes conveyed in a ftrait line, fometimes winding round the fides of precipices, is a picturefque object, and the cars filled with coals or iron, and gliding along occafionally with- out horfes, imprefs the traveller, who is unaccuftomed to fuch fpectaclcs, with pleafing aftonifhment. The expence of forming thefe roads is very confiderable, varying according to the nature of the ground, and the difficulty or facility of procuring proper materials ; it is feldom lefs than a thoufand pounds per mile, and fometimes exceeds that fum. The cars, from the folidity of their ftructure, and the quantity of iron ufed in the axle tree and wheels, when loaded weigh not lefs than three tons and a half ; they are drawn by a tingle horfe, and the driver ftands on a kind of footboard behind, and can inftantaneoufly flop the car by means of a lever and a drop, which falls between the wheels, and fufpends their motion. In places where the declivity is more rapid than ufual, the horfe is taken out, and the car impelled forward by its own weight. On our return to Abergavenny, I rode to the fummit, and walked from thence to the turnpike, at the foot of the Blorenge, which I found a much more agreeable way than along the hollow road I had before traverfed. As I defcended, the views were no lefs pleafing than diverfified ; the principal features of the fhifting landfcape, were the rich vale watered by the Ufk ; the mountains above and round Abergavenny ; the town, which here formed a fweep under the undulating Derry, crowned by the Sugar Loaf, and there appeared {landing on a gentle rife, with its towers and ruined caftle backed by the majeftic Skyrrid. Near a caftellated farm houfe belonging to Mr. Hanbury Williams, I left the hollow * The perpendicular fall of the ground is commonly no more than an inch in a yard, and fcarcely ever more than three inches. 2 - CHAPTER *4- hollow and (tony road, and crofled over fields of pafture; I then paficd through a deep glen, by the fide of murmuring rills, and loft fight of the town, vale, and mountains, which again prefented themfelves to view. This delightful walk at the end of two miles conducted me into the road near the right bank of the Uflc, where I remounted my horfe, and rode flowly on, ftrongly impreffed with this delightful and fublime fcenery. The pleafure which we received from this expedition, induced us to make a fecond excurfion to Blaenavon, but inftead of returning to Abergavenny, we continued our route down the valley of the Avon Lwyd, on the rail road to Pont y Pool. The road runs through a narrow vale, bounded by Hoping heights, clothed with underwood, and watered by the Avon Lwyd, or Grey river, which from a little rill, is gradually fwelled with mountain ftreams into a rapid torrent. The vale is at firft a deep and narrow glen, wholly occupied by the torrent, but foon expands, and becomes cultivated ; the right fide is fteep, the left gra- dually fnelving to the river, and both are richly covered with trees, and hanging thickets of alder, beech, alii, and oak. The left fide exhibits a fuccefiion of neat farm houfes, with fmall inclofures of corn and pafture, forming receffes in the wood; thefe little demefnes are moftly freeholds. In the whole valley, which is five miles in length, there is fcarcely a foot of land not cultivated, or overfpread with wood, excepting a fingle patch of rock and heath, which is finely contrafted with the furrounding verdure. Though the fcene is wild, nothing is rugged or abrupt, except the torrent foaming over its craggy channel, jn a hollow abyls half oblcured by trees. Approaching Pont y Pool, the vale diminilhed in breadth, and was clofed with the rich and wooded eminences of Pont y Pool park. We foon reached the commencement of the canal, and after croffing it over three ftone bridges, de- fcended to the town.. In a fubfequent excurfion to Blaenavon, which I made from Pont y Pool, I received great marks of hofpitality and attention from Mr. Hopkins, one of the proprietors, who is conftrucling a comfortable and elegant manfion at the north- cm extremity of this beautiful vale. [ 233 ] CHAPTER 25. Pont y Pool. — Japan Manufacture. — Anecdotes of the Hanbury Family. — Pont y Pool Park and Houfe. — Trevethin Church. T 1 ^HE town of Pont y Pool is Angularly placed on the edge of a fteep cliff, ■~ overhanging the Avon Lwyd, and on the flope of a declivity under im- pending hills, partly bare, and partly mantled with wood. The line of the ca- nal is feen winding above the town ; a rapid torrent, defcending from a lake at the foot of the Mynydd Maen, flows under the canal, and rufhing impetuoufly along the outfkirts of the town, precipitates itfelf into the Avon Lwyd, which rolls in an abyfs beneath. The appellation of Pont y Pool is modern, fuppofed to be derived from a bridge thrown over a large pool, which fupplies water for a forge, but is a cor- ruption of Pont ap Howell or Howell's bridge Pont y Pool is a large flraggling place, containing 250 houfes, and 150O fouls -f . Several neat habitations, and numerous fhops, prefent an appear- ance of thriving profperity, notwithstanding the dufky afpecl of the town, oc- cafioned by the adjacent forges. The inhabitants derive great fupport from the iron works and collieries, and have been recently benefited by the trade of the canal. The place is the principal mart for the natives of the mountainous diftridj * Before the exiftence of the prefent town, the the vicinity of his refidence the bridge was called place contained very few houfes, and was called, from Pont Davydd ap Howell, abbreviated by the Welfli the church, Trevethin. Near the bridge over the toPont-ap-Howell, and corrupted to Pont-a-pool and Avon Lwyd, was a neat houfe belonging to Davydd Pont y Pool. From Mr. Evans, sp Howell, the anceftor of the late Mr. Edmund f From the Rev. J. Williams the vicar, Davie.s, who was agent to the Hanbury family. From H h 234 CHAPTER 25. diflrict, and the weekly market is not the lead confiderable, and the cheapeft in Monmouthfhirc. It was a pleafing amulement to mix in thefe crowded meet- ings, to obferve the frank and fimple manners of the hardy mountaineers, and en- deavour, in afking the price of their provisions, to extort a Saxon word from this BritiJJi progeny. The women were moftly wrapped in long cloth cloaks of a dark blue or brown colour ; all of them wore mob caps neatly plaited over the forehead and ears, and tied above the chin ; feveral had alio round felt hats like thofe worn by the men, or large chip hats covered with black (ilk, and faftened under the chin. This hcad-drefs gives an arch and lively air to the younger part of the fex, and is not unbecoming. The town principally owes its foundation and increafe to the iron works eftab- lifhed by the family of Hanbury ; it is likewife remarkable for the japan ma- nufacture, known by the name of Pont y Pool ware. In the reign of Charles the fecond, Thomas Allgood, a native of Northamptonfnire, came to Pont y Pool, and being a man of a projecting genius, made various experiments to extract copperas and oil from coal, and finally invented the method of lackering iron plates with a brilliant varnifh, in the fame manner as the Japanefe lackered wood j which was afterwards diftinguifhed by the name of Pont y Pool ware, Dying, however, before it was brought to perfection, his fon Edward, who inherited his father's genius as well as his father's fecrets, purfued the difcovery with increafing fpirit, made confiderable improvements, and finally eftablifhed a manufactory of japan ware, which was long unrivalled. This manufactory is frill carried on by his grandfon William, but on a lefs extenfive fcale ; its de- creafe is principally owing to the rife of fimilar eftablifhments in other places, and particularly at Ufk, under a branch of the family *. Edward Allgood was the principal agent of major Hanbury, and affifted him in directing and improving the iron works, particularly the wire manufactory, which was deficient in the method of poiifhing to that eftablifhed at Woburn in * In 1761, Edward Allgood, with one of his ftill living at Ufk, in the 87th year of his age, and to brothers, grandfons of the firit inventor, removed to him, through the medium of Mr. Morgan Davis, an UJk, where they eftablifhed a japan manufactory, ingenious young man employed in the manufactory, ■which I have already mentioned. This Edward is I am indebted for this account of the Allgood family^ a PONT Y POOL. t$£ in Bedford fli ire. For the purpofe of dilcovering the feCret, Edward Aligood repaired to Woburn, in the character of a beggar, and acting the part of a buffoon, gradually obtained accefs to the work (hops, and was permitted to in- (peel: the various proceffes, by which means he acquired the art of making the leys, the principal ingredient for giving a more brilliant polifli to the iron wire, which was the only defideratum in the Pont y Pool works. The lituation of Pont y Pool, near a region rich in mineral treafures, in the midft of forges and collieries, and at the head of the canal, render it peculiarly commodious for the eftablifhment of iron manufactories ; and perhaps another generation may fee anew Birmingham ftart up in the wilds of Monmouthfhire. Pont y Pool is in the manor of Lantarnam, and the town houfe was erected in 1 730 by Mrs. Bray, joint lady of the manor with her filler Mils Morgan, which is commemorated by an infeription in Englifh and Welfh on the front. The family of Hanbury, to whom the town owes its confequence and celebrity, have long refided at Pont y Pool park, in the vicinity ; their anceftors were formerly feated at Hanbury hall in Worcefter (hire, from which place they de- rived their name. According to the red book of the bifhopric of Worcefter, Roger de Hanbury was born there in 11 25, and his defcendant Galfridus, re- fided there in the middle of the fixteenth century. About the year 1500 the poffeflbr difinherited his brothers, and left the feat, and part of the eftate to a natural daughter. Richard, the eldeft, fettled in London, and is diftinguifhed as one of the Goldfmiths' company, (for fo the bankers were called) in the reign of Henry the feventh. His eldeft fon, Capel, purchafed an eftate at Pont y Pool, and was the firft founder of the iron works. The earlieft conveyance deeds are dated 1565, and a regular account of the fale of iron commences in 1588. Neither he, or any of his immediate defcendants, were perma- nently feated at Pont y Pool, but pofTefTed landed property in the pariih of Kidderminfter, in the county of Worcefter, where they feem to have refided. They occafionally repaired to Pont y Pool, for the purpofe of infpecting the iron works t and the initial letters of John and Richard, the fon and grandfon H h 2 of 236 CHAPTER 25. of Capel, together with the family arms *, are carved on the pulpit of the church, with the date of 1637. Capel, the fon of Richard, died in 1704, and was buried in the chancel of Kidderminfter church, under a flat fepulchral ftone, with this memorial : " Here was laid the body of Capel Hanbury, efq. May it reft as he lived and " died in peace, in the 79th year of his age, 14th January 1704.. " With length of days he met his fate prcpar'd, " No murmurs, not a figh or groan was heard ; " That peace that dwelt within his honeft breaft, " Has fmooth'd his paflage to eternal reft." His eldeft fon and heir John ufually known by the name of major Hanbury, was born in 1664 ; after receiving a liberal education, and making a confiderable proficiency in claflical literature, he chofe the profeffion of the law. He did not however long purfue his ftudies in this line : he faid one day, to Mr. Jones of Lanarth, " I read Coke upon Littleton, as far as Tenant in Dower ; but on the " fuggeflion of a friend, that I fhould gain more advantage from the iron works " of Pont y Pool, than from the profits of the bar, I laid alide Tenant in Dower, " and turned my attention to mines and forges." In 1 701 he married Albina Selwyn, daughter of John Selwyn, efq. of Matfon, in the county of Glocefter, with whom he obtained a confiderable fortune. With this addition to his own property, he determined flill farther to improve the iron works at Pont y Pool, near which place he built a houfe, and fixed his refidence. His /kill and indefatigable application were crowned with confiderable fuc- cefs ; he increafed the produce of the iron works, made many improvements in the machinery, invented the method of rolling iron plates by means of cylinders, and introduced the art of tinning into England. By the intereft of his wife's family, he was chofen, in 1701, member for the city of Glocefter, which he continued to reprefent in the three fucceeding parliaments. His wife dying without iilue, he efpoufed, in 1703, Bridget Ayf- cough, eldeft daughter of fir Edward Ayfcough, knight, in the county of Lin- coln v * Or, a bend, engrailed, vert, cotifed fable, MAJOR HMBFRY 'ail 'fi/i Afir.2CiS0P.bti t'adtll e Davies Strand FAMILY OF HANBURY. 237 coin ; fhe was in high favour with the duchefs of Marlborough *, and by this connection he acquired the protection of the duke, who honoured him with par- ticular marks of confidence and efteem. On the acceffion of George the firft, he was chofen, on the independent in- tereft, member for the county of Monmouth, which he continued to reprefent until his death. Although no fpeaker, he diftinguilhed himfelf as a man of bufi- nefs, and was appointed chairman to feveral committees. During the reign of Queen Anne, and the early part of the reign of George the firft;, he uniformly voted with the whigs ; but on the fchifm, which divided that party, he joined the body hoflile to government, oppofed the adminiftration of fir Robert Walpole, and his name appears among the members who voted againfl the excife. In 1 720 he obtained a confiderable acquifition of property ; Mr. Williams, of Caerleon, who fled from his country for killing Mr. Morgan, of Penros, in a rencontre -f, having received, on his return to England, great marks of attention and friendfnip from major Hanbury, flood godfather to his fon Charles, and dying unmarried, bequeathed to him the bulk of his fortune, which exceeded £. 70,000, under the condition of purchafing eftates, the proprietor of which fhould afiume the name and arms of Williams. In memory of his benefactor, Major Hanbury erected a monument in Weftminfter abbey, with an elegant infeription j', expreffive of his regard and gratitude. Soon after the failure of the South Sea fcheme, when many of the directors were difmiffed, the integrity of his character, and his talents for bufinefs, recom- mended him to the proprietors, and he was appointed one of the new directors. About the fame period, he had the honour of being one of the executors of his patron the duke of Marlborough's will. In gratitude for his faithful difcharge of * Among the family papers at Pont y Pool, are a Ecclefise Anglicanae Fauiror Eximius ; few anecdotes cf the duchefs, written by Mrs. Han- Patriae Amans & Publics libertatis Vinciex, bury. Erga Pauperes, pracipue f See p. 96. Caerleonenfes fuos. % Carolus Williams Pie Liberalis ; de Caerleon In Amicos fplendide munificus, In Agro Monmouth Arm. In ilium prsefertim, Obit 29no. Die Augti. Ann. Dom. 1720. Qui Hoc grato Animo Monumentuma .•Etatis fuse LXXXVII. Pofuit Yir fuit vers Chriliianus I. IL i3 g CHAPTER 25. of that delicate office, the duchefs of Marlborough prefented him with an elegant fervice of plate, and his wife with a valuable fet of jewels. Before his death he purchafed the eftate of Coldbrook, and fettled it on his fon Charles, godfon of Mr. Williams, afterwards well known under the name of fir Charles Hanbury Williams. He died highly refpefted, beloved, and lamented, in 1 734, in the 70th year of his age. He left five fons j John, who died in 1736 without hTue; Capel, the anceftor of the prefent poffefTor of Pont y Pool park; Charles; George, who fucceeded to the eftate of Coldbrook after the death of Charles ; and Thomas, who died in 1778 without iflue. The widow of major Hanbury refided at Pont y Pool until her death in 1741, when Capel inherited the eftate. On the death of fir Charles, without ilfue male, Capel had, by his father's will, the option of the Coldbrook eftate, on the con- dition of relinquifhing that of Pont y Pool to his brother George. A compro- mife, however, took place; Capel retained Pont y Pool, with £.23,000, the remainder of the legacy left by Mr. Williams, which had not been expended in the purchafe of lands, and George fucceeded to Coldbrook. Capel, after reprefenting the borough of Leominfter, was feveral times knight of the fhire for the county of Monmouth, and declined the offer of a peerage. Capel dying in 1765, was fucceeded by his fon John, who likewife reprefented the county of Monmouth, until the time of his deceafe in 1784; when the independent intereft which had hitherto fupported the family, was, by the minority of his fon, diverted into another channel. His eldeft fon John Capel, dying in 1795, the feat of Pont y Pool park, and the eftate, were inherited by Capel Hanbury, efq. the prefent proprietor, who has fince afiumed the name of Leigh, in confequence of the will of the late lord Leigh *, devifing his property to his next of kin male, bearing the name and arms of Leigh. I was much indebted to Mr. Leigh, to whom I was introduced by my friend Mr. Greene, for a kind reception at his hofpitable manfion of Pont y Pool park. During • His grandmother, the honourable Jane Tra6y, eldeft daughter of Thomas Charles, fifth lord Vifcount Tracy, was defcended from Thomas, the firlt lord Leigh, by the female line of his firft marriage. PONT Y POOL HOUSE. 239 During my continuance in this pleafing abode, I was permitted to infpect the interefting correfpondence and papers of fir Charles Hanbury Williams, which highly gratified my curiofity, and have enabled me to throw a confiderable light on the anecdotes of his life *. Thefe papers comprife great part of his official correfpondence duringhisembalTics at Drefden, Berlin, and Petersburg ; and many interefting letters on the politics of the times, from fome of his moft confidential friends, particularly Mr. Fox, lord Chefterfield, Mr. Rigby, and the late earl of Orford. Among thefe papers is a collection of his poems in manufcript, particularly the original copy of Ifabella, or the Morning. The manfion was partly built by major Hanbury towards the latter end of the laft century, and partly by his fon Capel ; it is a comfortable houfe, but will foon be much improved and beautified by the prefent proprietor, in conformity with a judicious plan which is now carrying into execution. In the poffeffion of Mr. Leigh are feveral family pictures, not uninterefling. Three portraits of major Hanbury, at different periods ; the firft when he was a young man, in a coat of mail, with his head bare ; the fecond middle aged ; the third, in a red cap, in the latter part of his life, from which the engraving annexed to this chapter is taken. The firft of thefe portraits exhibits a handfome and frank countenance, and the laft difplays even in old age an ap- pearance of great fpirit and vivacity. The head of his fecond wife, Bridget Ayfcough ; a half length of his fon Capel ; two portraits of the honourable Mrs. Hanbury, eldeft daughter of lord vifcount Tracy, and wife of Capel ; a three quarters, in crayons, of the late John Hanbury, efq. ; another of his wife Mrs. Hanbury, now Mrs. Stoughton, and their three infant fons. Two portraits of fir Charles Hanbury Williams, one in full drefs with the ribband and ftar of the order of the Bath, the fecond in a plainer habit, repofing his cheek on one hand, and holding in the other his poem of Ifabella, or the Morning ; this picture is well painted, and larger than that at Coldbrook. I noticed alfo a fine whole length portrait of fir John Hanbury, knight, of Kilmarfh, in Northamptonfhire,, * Chapter 29. who 24 o C H A P T E R 2$. who was defcended from a collateral branch of the Hanburys, feated at Benehall*, in the county of Worcefter ; he died in 1634, aged 65. A head of an old man in a blue night cap, though indifferently painted, muft not be paffed over in filence ; it is the portrait of Mr. Williams of Caerleon, the friend of major Hanbury, and the great benefactor of the family. Over the fire-place in the dining room is a painting which reprefents Sarah duchefs of Marlborough, in a mourning habit, fitting, r/ith her daughter Anne, afterwards countefs of Sunderland, clothed in white, and holding a bafket of fruit ; Blenheim houfe appears in the back ground ; the beautiful countenance of the duchefs, and the elegant form of the young lady, are emi- nently confpicuous. In the fame apartment are feveral others, not undeferving of notice ; John duke of Marlborough, fitting, with a truncheon in his hand ; Frederick the fecond, king of Pruffia, a prefent from that monarch to fir Charles Hanbury Williams, when embaflador at Berlin ; the earl of Strafford, who was beheaded in the reign of Charles the firft, by Vandyke ; Sir Robert Walpole, a copy from Vanloo ; and Thomas Winnington, efq. of Stanford court, Wor- cefterfhire, the friend of Sir Charles Hanbury Williams, a great fupporter of the whig intereft, and an active partifan of Sir Robert Walpole. He filled the offices of lord of the admiralty and treafury ; was treafurer of the navy and paymafter of the forces, and died in 1747. A connoiffeur will not fail to admire two charming pictures by Morillo, a pre- fent from fir Robert Walpole to Capel Hanbury ; they reprefent two groupes of boys, with the nature and limplicity which characterife the works of that pleafing maftcr. Among feveral curious paintings, which Mrs. Leigh brought from Gnoll Caftle in the county of Glamorgan, the feat of her late hufband fir Robert Humphrey Mackworth, bart. is an Efculapius, writing, faid to be by Vandyke, and a portrait on wood, of a handfomc man in black armour, his head unco- vered, with a fcarf tied round his left arm, infcribcd with a motto n oblie point •> a battle and a ficge are reprefented in the back ground. It bears the date of J575, setatis 35, and an infcription, one word of which is illegible " pour ***** et * Heralds 1 office, pedigree of the Hanburys of Benehall and Kilmarfli. PONT Y POOL PARK. * 4 i et ma patrie." It appears to be the portrait of Robert Dudley earl of Leicefter, the weak and haughty favourite of queen Elifabcth. The manfion is Angularly fituated at the extremity of the grounds, a fmall diftance from the town, which (though feated on the perpendicular cliff, rifing from the oppofite bank of the Avon) is fo judicioufly concealed by plantations of oak, beech, and poplars, that fcarcely a fingle houfe is difcerned. The view is rendered formal by a kitchen garden, which occupies the interval between the front of the houfe and the torrent, and by an artificial terrace, in the ftyle of the lad age, not confonant to the genius of the place. But thefe fpecimens of falfe tafte will foon be removed ; a lawn of verdure will gradually Hope from the houfe to the torrent, and harmonife with the native beauties of the fcenery. The grounds are pleating, wild, and diverfified ; a narrow lawn ftretches from the houfe to the turnpike road at Pont y Moel ; the weftern boundary is the Avon Lwyd, which here rufhes with its ufual rapidity ; the left bank is flat, the right a perpendicular cliff, beyond which towers the bold and bare fummit of the Mynydd Maen. On the oppofite fide of the vale the grounds rife into abrupt eminences, clothed with hanging groves, and crowned with tufts of wood. The edge of this beautiful valley is Ikirted by a fucceffion of ancient oaks, beeches, and Spanifh chefhuts, which fwcep the lawn with their pendent and wide fpread- ing branches. The upper part of the park is compofed of gentle undulations fwelling one above the other, and feparated by fmall dingles ; not a veftige of art appears, no. clumps, no avenues, no formal outlines ; the whole feems moulded and planted by the hand of nature. In company with Mr. and Mrs. Leigh, I had a pleafant ride through the park and grounds to the folly, a fummer houfe built by the late Mr. Hanbury, near the fouthern extremity of the chain of hills, which ftretch from Pont y Pool park, and terminate in the Blorenge. From this eminence, the wild and fertile parts of Monmouthfiiire, the hills and dales, plains and mountains, are beau- tifully combined, and enriched with woodlands, which overfpread the country beneath and around to a confiderable extent. No traveller fhould quit Mon- mouthmire without enjoying this fingular and almoft boundlefs profpecl:. I i The 24 2 CHAPTER 25. The parifli church of Pont y Pool, called Trevethin, is fituated on an eminence at the diftance of a mile from the town ; a neat gravel walk afcends to it through the plantations of Pont y Pool park, which was begun at the expence of Mrs. Evans, daughter of the late curate, and is now maintained by lubfeription under her fuperintendence. The church confifts of a fquare tower of {tone, with white- washed battlements, a nave, a north aifle, and a chancel ; it appears to be an an- cient ftructure ; the nave being feparated from the ai-ile, by four low circular arches repofing on maffive columns fcarcely five feet in height. The chancel is divided from the church by a gothic arch, over which is inferibed " John Han- bury, Charles Rogers, mercer, churchwarden, 1730." On the pulpit I noticed an infeription in large old characters. " 1637, God fave the king, C. R. 13. J. H. A. H. R. H. A. H." which are the initial letters of John and Richard Hanbury and of their refpective wives, with the arms of the family rudely carved. At the eaftern extremity of the northern aille is a fmall chapel adjoining to the chancel, the cemetery of the Hanbury family. At the upper end is a fepulchral monument erected by his widow, to the memory of major Hanbury, and fur- mounted by his bull in marble well executed. " HERE LIES THE BODY OF JOHN HANBURY, ESQ. " OF PONT POOLE IN THE COUNTY OF MONMOUTH, " WHO BY HIS GREAT UNDERSTANDING AND HUMANITY "MADE THE PEOPLE OF THIS PLACE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD RICHAND HAPPYJ " AND THEY WILL TELL THEIR CHILDREN TO LATEST POSTERITY " THAT HE WAS A WISE AND HONEST MAN. " HE WAS CHOSEN IN EIGHT PARLIAMENTS, " AND WAS KNIGHT OF THE SHIRE FOR THE COUNTY OF MONMOUTH AT u . HIS DECEASE, " HE WAS APPOINTED BY THE GREAT DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH " ONE OF HIS EXECUTORS TO HIS LAST WILL, • l HE MARRIED BRIDGET, DAUGHTER OF SIR EDWARD AYSCOUGH, OF " KELSEY, IN THE COUNTY OF LINCOLN., " BY WHOM HE LEFT FIVE SONS, JOHN, CAPEL, CHARLES, GEORGE,. " AND THOMAS. U HE DIED THE 14 DAY OF JUNE I 734 IN THE 70 YEAR OF HIS AGE." In TREVETHIN CHURCH. 243 In the church yard is an epitaph in verfe which deferves notice, becaufe it was compofed by fir Charles Hanbury Williams, in commemoration of a faithful agent : " TO THE MEMORY OF " MR. THOMAS COOKE, " AGENT OF THE IRON-WORKS " TO JOHN HANBURY, ESQ. " OF PONT Y POOL, " WHO DIED AUGUST THE I st " 1739: AGED 66 YEARS." ** WITH MOST RELIGIOUS TRUTH, IT MAY BE SAID " BENEATH THIS STONE AN HONEST MAN LIES DEAD } " VICE HE ABHORR'D, IN VIRTUE'S PATH HE TROD ; " JUST TO HIS MASTER, HUMBLE TO HIS GOD. " USEFUL HE LIV'D, AND VOID OT ALL OFFENCE i " BY NATURE SENSIBLE, WELL BRED BY SENSE J " HIS MASTER'S INTEREST WAS HIS CONSTANT END J " (THE FAITHFULL'ST SERVANT, AND THE TRUEST FRIEND) " FOR HIM HIS HEART AND HAND WERE ALWAYS JOIn'd, " AND LOVE WITH DUTY STRICTLY WAS COMBIN'D. " TOGETHER THRO' THIS VALE OF LIFE THEY PASS'D, " AND IN THIS CHURCH TOGETHER SLEEP AT LAST; " FOR WHEN THE MASTER'S FATAL HOUR WAS COME, " THE SERVANT SIGH'D AND FOLLOw'd TO THE TOMB. " AND WHEN AT THE LAST DAY HE SHALL APPEAR, " THUS SHALL HIS SAVIOUR SPEAK AND SCATTER FEAR: " WELL DONE THOU FAITHFUL SERVANT, GOOD AND JUST, " RECEIVE THY WELL DESERv'd REWARD OF TRUST; " COME WHERE NO TIME CAN HAPPINESS DESTROY, " INTO THE FULNESS OF THY MASTER'S JOY." I i 2 A proof 2 44 CHAPTER 25. A proof of the rapid progrefs made by the Englifh language in this place was imparted to me by the Rev. Mr. Williams, vicar of the parifh. Since his firft arrival at Pont y Pool, the fervice was performed once in Englifh, and three times in Welfh, and the greater part of the congregation fcarcely underftood Englifh; at prefent the two languages are alternately ufed, and the Englifh tongue predominates. PEDIGREE OF THE HANBURY FAMILY. RICHARD HANBURY, (defcended from Roger de Hanbury, feated at Hanbury Hall in II25) living 1573. L 1 Capel, founder of the Iron Works, living 1565. John, living in 1637. Richard, living in 1637. Capel, d. i704=E!ifabeth Capel. , ' ift. Albina, dr. of John Sehvyn,: — John, called Major Hanbury,=2d. Bridget-, dr. of Sir Edward Ayfcough, Knt. Efq. of Matfon, co; Glocefter. d. 1733. I of Kelfey, co. Lincoln. John, m. Anne, dr. of Pries, Efq. of Lower Lanfoift, d. 1736. Capei-pjane, elded: dr. of Thomas Charles, d. 1765. 51I1 Lord Vifcount Tracy. John, b. 1744, d. i7S4=Jane, dr. of Morgan Lewis, of St. Pierre, Efq. Henrietta : Frances : living in Q^icen Anne ftrcet weft, London. John Capel, Opel H. Lsigh=Dame Molly Anne, relic! of d. :795- Sir Robert Humphrey Mack- worth, Bart, of GnollCaftlc, co. Glamorgan. I Charles H. Tracy=Hearietta Sufanna, only dr. and heirefs of Henry, 8th and lalt Lord Vifcount Tracy. Sir Charles H. Williams==Frances, youngeft dr. of Thomas, George H. Williams=Margarer, youngeft dr d. 1759. hft Earl of Coninglby. d. 1764. I Frances, m. Wm. Anne Holies, Earl of EfiVx, d. 1759. 1 Charlotte, m. Robert Boyle Walfingham, youngeft fon of the Earl of Shannon, I Thomas, of John Chamber, of d. 1778. Upper Lanfci ft, Efq. 1 John H. WJIliams=Elifabetb, dr. of Alfo Thcmas Johncs, five Efq. of Croft fons Gallic, co. Here- and ford. one daughter. [ 245 3 CHAPTER 26. Excurfions from Pont y Pool into the Weftern Parts of Monmoiithfhire. — Follies of the Great and Little Ebwy. — Aberyjlwith. — Nant y glo. — LanhiddeL — Return to Pont y Pool. TT is a remarkable circumftance, that Monmouthftiire, which is the principal A paffage from England to South Wales, and much frequented by travellers for its antiquities and picturefque beauties, mould be fo little known : the rich, and cultivated diftrixfls, contiguous to the high roads, have not failed to attract notice ; but the remoter parts have been feldom vifited and never defcribed. Under this head may be cornprifed the mountainous region,, watered by the Avon Lwyd, Ebwy, Sorwy, and Rumney ; ftretching from Pont y Pool to the frontiers of Brecknockfhire and Glamorganshire, and comprehending nearly one fourth of the county. This region, though rich in minerals, is fuppofed to be barren of objects, either interesting or picturefque, is therefore called the Wilds ©f Monmouth fli ire, and feldom traverfed by the gentry, except for the purpofe of growfe mooting. Imprelfed with the general prejudice,- 1 neglected to ex- plore it until my third tour ; the populous diftrict of Crofs pen Main, and the beautiful vales of the Ebwy and Sorwy, feen from the top of Twyn Barlwm, fiift arrefted my attention; my curiofity was ftill further heightened by the alTurances of Mr. Evans, that I mould find fome Swifs fcenes in the Wilds of Monmouthftiire ; and though the extreme badnefs of the weather in my laft expe- dition fhortened my ftay in thefe mountains,. I was not difappointed in my ex- pectations. 1 made the firfl: excurfion from Pont y Pool park, in company with the Rev. Mr. 246 CHAPTER 26. Mr. Williams, vicar of Trevethin, who is mailer of the language, and well ac- quainted with the road. Departing from Pont y Pool, we paffed along the fide of the canal to Pont Newynydd, where a copious ftream burfts from the ground, and after turning a mill, falls into the Avon Lwyd ; we then quitted the rail road to Blaenavon, and rode up a ftcep and paved afcent, which led through thick coppice woods, to the moors. We continued along the level furface of the fum- mit, over a boggy diftridt, producing heath and mofs, paffed feveral women ga- thering various kinds of berries* common to moraffes, and defcried at a diftance a group of fportfmen who were mooting growfe, a fpecies of game become ex- tremely rare ; the heath cock, which was not uncommon in the memory of per- fons now living, is at prefent wholly extinct. At the extremity of this moor we approached the defcent leading to Cwm Tilery, and I was furprifed with the view of an extenfive diftricft well peopled, richly wooded, and highly cultivated, almoft rivalling the fertile counties of England. Slowly defcending from the dreary heath, we looked down with delight upon numerous vallies which abound with romantic fcenery, and paffed feveral rills bubbling from the fides of the hill, and fwelling the Tilery ; beneath us at a diftance we diftinguifhed the Little Ebwy, burfting through a deep, nar- row, and woody glen, and only vifible by its foam gliftening through the thick foliage. At the bottom of the defcent we crofted the Little Ebwy over a ftone bridge, and rode along a narrow and rugged path, winding round the precipitous fides of the Beacon mountain, which are thickly clothed with underwood, and occa- fionally tufted with hanging groves of oak, beech, aih, and alder ; the wild rafp- berry twining in the thickets, and the ground overfpread with the wood ffcraw- berry. The rapid torrent beneath was fometimes half obfeured by the trees, and fomctimes re-appeared to view, as it bounded over its rocky'channel, illumined by the rays of a mid-day fun. This valley is ufually called, from the torrent, Ebwy vach, or the vale of the Little * Thefe berries are principally varieties of the Vaccinium, particularly Vaccinium MyrtUlus, or Whortle- berry 5 V. Vitit Idea, Red whorts ; V. Oxjccocot, Cranberry. ABERYSTWITH. 247 Little Ebwy, but is denominated by the natives, the Valley of the Church ; it is bounded on the eaft by a ridge called Milvre Hill, which feparates it from the parilhes of Lanfoift and Trevethin, and on the weft by the Beacon mountain, which divides it from the valley of the Great Ebwy. At firft it was extremely narrow, almoft without a fingle habitation ; the foaming torrent filling the whole fpace between the mountains. As we proceeded the vale expanded, and numerous farm houfes, with fmall inclofures of corn and pafture, occupied the flopes of the eminences, and fpread into the narrow plain on each fide of the river ; the whitened walls, and brown ftone roofs of thefe detached dwellings, gave an air of neatnefs and gaiety to the furrounding landfcape. Towards the extremity of the vale, we crofled the Little Ebwy, over another ftone bridge, to the church, which is beautifully fituated in the midft of fields, upon a gentle rife overhanging the torrent. In our way we palled the Iftwyth, a lively rill, which defcends from a wooded dingle, and in a few paces falls into the Little Ebwy : this ftream gives the name of Aberyftwith to the fcattered village, which is likewife called Blaenau Gwent, or the extremity of Gwentland. The church is a handfome gothic building, with a fquare tower, and is pecu- liarly Unking from its fequeftered fituation and lingular appearance ; the outfide of the body and chancel, with the lower part of the tower, and its battlements, are whitened ; the remaining part of the tower is of hewn ftone uncoloured. The infide confifts of a nave and a northern aifle, feparated by five pointed arches on octagon piers. On the wall of the aifle is a fepulchral tablet, erected " to the memory of the late pious and reverend Morgan Jones, who died in 177 1, in the 55th year of his age," with fome rhapfodical verfes, favouring more of methodifm than poetry : " Salvation was his fong, " Free grace his only theme " He fled this mefheth howling vale r *' His. eyes behold the gleam." As there is no chancel, the communion table is placed in a fmall recefs, at the extremity of the nave ; over it is a whimfical group carved in wood, and painted two 24 8 CHAPTER 26. two angels are represented, founding brazen trumpets, and between them a clergyman in his robes, holding an enormous trumpet in his hand, as if fatigued with blowing. Near it is a wooden tablet, erected by a carpenter to the memory of his mother, wife of the Rev. Richard Edwards of this parifh, with an infcription written by himfelf, which I copied for its affecting fimplicity. " As virtues afcribed to the dead Are often perverted to flatter the Living, yet juftice demands this truth, That the deccafed was a fincere friend, An affectionate filter, a moft indul- gent and tender parent : To whofe Memory this is erected, by her fon John, as a fmall teftimony of his Gratitude and efteem. Thou facred fpirit ! that fo fudden fled From our abodes to mingle with the dead ; Of love and duty this fad pledge receive ; 'Tis all I can, and all a fon can give." In this church the lervice is always performed in Welfli, and the Englifh language is fo little underftood, that without the affiftance of Mr. Williams the clerk would fcarcely have comprehended my queftions, or returned intelli- gible anfwers. The church yard contains eleven old yew trees, planted in the form of a fquare along its four fides, and inclofing the church in the middle; the largeft was twenty- four feet in circumference, the fmalleft eleven and a half. As we were employed in meafuring the trees, feveral of the natives crowded round us, without coats or waiftcoats, fome with red, and others with white flannel fhirts ; a mode of drefs which perfons defirous of magnifying common incidents into extraordinary circumftances, affect to derive from the Romans. By means of Mr. Williams, I enquired of a man in a red fhirt, his reafon for preferring that colour to white, and flannel to linen ? he replied " it is warm and comfortable, prevents colds, and can be worn longer without warning." This 1 cuftom ABERYSTWITH. 249 cuftom of wearing flannel under-garments, is well adapted to mountainous re- gions, where the change of weather is frequently fudden, and is particularly ad- vantageous to labourers, and thofe who work in the mines and forges, provided due attention is paid to cleanlinefs. In defcribing Aberyftwith, I ought not, perhaps, to omit mentioning a Angu- lar publication which is pompoufly ftyled, " A Geographical, Hiftorical, and " Religious Account of the Parifli of Aberyftruth, in the County of Monmouth. " To which are added, Memoirs of feveral Perfons of note, who lived in the faid " Parifli ; by Edmund Jones;" printed in 1779. The author was a native of Aberyftwith, and minifter of a congregation of independants. His book contains a fliort but clear topographical defcription of the valleys of the two Ebwys, and of the Tilery ; the (late of the independant congregations ; a few biographical notices of fome gifted perfons, and of his father and mother, and others who were " converted unto God ;" he fpeaks of his own conversion, and boafts, with affected humility, of his own " injlrumentality*" in the revival of religion. But the moft curious part of this lingular work, is a rhapfody " on the " apparition of fairies and other fpirits of hell" like a company of children, with mufic and dancing. He afTerts, that they frequented the parifh of Aberyftwith, as much or more than any parifli of Wales, and were particularly fond of Havo- davel and Kevenbach, becaufe they were dry, lightfome, and pleafant places, where they were often feen leaping, and making a waving path in the air. He ferioufly warns his countrymen not to think them happy fpirits, becaufe they delight in mufic and dancing, or becaufe they are called in Monmouthfliire, " Mothers' bleffing, and Fair folks of the zvood." He narrates feveral childifli flories of people who heard them fing, but could never learn the tune ; who heard them talk, but could feldom diftinguifh the words; of many who were tormented and wounded by them, and of others who were tranfportcd through the air. He alio gives an inftance -j* of their apparition from his own experience, and enume- rates * " Another congregation was raifed up in the f " If any think I am too credulous in thefe rela- " valley of the church, by the inftrumentality of " tions, and fpeak of things of which Imyfelfhave " unworthy me, in 1764, at Pen yr LI win houfe, " had no experience, I mult let them know they are " where I was born." " miitaken ; for when a very young boy, going with " my Kk 250 CHAPTER 26. rates the names of fome who profefTed to cure the wounds inflicted by thefe hob- goblins. This whimfical publication would have been unworthy of notice, did it not mew the tendency of the people * in thefe mountainous and fequeftered regions, to credit fuperftitious tales, which formed the popular creed of our forefathers, and gave rife to fo much beautiful imagery in the efFufions of our bell poets. Quitting thefe haunts, " Of goblins, wood-gods, fairies, elfs, or fiends-}-; we afcended the northern extremity of this delightful vale, and gradually advanced into a wild, dreary, and almoft uninhabited diftridt, among bleak hills and barren moors. From the top of the rife we looked down on the works of Nant y glo, which once gave activity and life to this folitary region. In our de- fcent we crofled a fmall but rapid ftream, derived from the contiguous hills of Brecknockfhire, which forcing its way through a deep channel worn in the rocks, falls into the Little Ebwy, and gives to the place the appellation of Nant y glo, or the Cold Brook. We called upon Mr. Hertford, fon of one of the proprietors, whom I had cafually met at Pont y Pool, and who is fettled with his family in this fequeftered fpot. After refreshing ourlelves with a hearty meal at his hofpitable board, which «' my aunt, Elizabeth Roger, my mother's fitter, in " clear idea of her white face and well formed counte- " the day time, fomewhat early in the morning, but " nance. The men wore white cravats ; and I always " after fun riling, from Havodjivel towards my fa- " think they were the perfeft refemblance of perfons a ther's houfe, at Pen y Llwyn, at the end of the " who lived in the world before my time; for there " upper field of Kae yr Keven, by the way-fide " is a refemblance of their form and countenances " which we were patting, I faw the likenefs of a " ftill remaining in my mind." p. 75, 76. " fheepfold with the door towards the fouth, and * This belief muft be very general in thefe parts, " over the door, inftead of a lintel, the refemblance if half of what the author fays is true. " I alfo rea- " of a dried branch of a tree, I think of a hazel tree ; " fonably apprehend that a well attefted relation of " and within the fold a company of many people ; " apparitions and agencies of fpirits in the world, is " fome fitting down, and fome going in and coming " a great means to prevent the capital infidelities of " out, bowing their heads as they paffed under the " Atheifm and Sadducifm, which get much ground " branch. It feemed to me as if they had been lately " in fome countries ; for in Wales, where fuch things " dancing, and that there was a mufician among " have often happened, and fometimes fill do in fome u them. Among the reft, over againft the door, I " places, tho" hut feldom now, 5 S CHAPTER 27. diverfity to the uniform range of hills ; rapid torrents rufh down their hollows,, and after fupplying the canal, pour their fuperftuous waters into the Ebwy ; one of thefe, called Cam, which defcends from Mynydd Maen, gives the name of. Abercarn to the place where the principal iron works are fituatcd. On the right the mountains are lefs broken with dingles; their lower parts are covered with un- derwood, and their heathy tops overhang and darken the torrent. About two miles from Abercarn defcending from the canal, I entered the ftony road leading through the vale, which here expands to the breadth of half a mile, and is rich in wood, pafture, and corn. In my way to Rifca, I crofTed a bridge over a rail road, lately formed by Mr. Edward Jones, who rents under Mr. Morgan of Ruperra fome mines of lead,, calamine, and coal, in Machen Hill, on the oppofite fide of the Ebwy. The ex- pedition and fecurity with which the cars are conveyed up and down the fteep fide of the precipice, appear lingular to a fpectator on the bridge. Two parallel rail roads are carried from the canal to the oppofite fide of the Ebwy, along which two cars are drawn up and let down at the fame time, by means of an engine ; they appear to pafs each other alternately, like buckets in a well ; a boy defcends with the empty car, nearly midway, and after adjufting the mar chinery is again drawn up with the loaded car, which empties the coals into the boats of the canal. Following the courfe of the Ebwy at a little difbnee from its banks, where it lofes itfelf in an abyfs of trees, and flows under, the fteep fides of Machen Hill, heard but not feen,. I reached Rifca, a village fituated at the extremity of the vale, and under the precipitous crags of Twyn Barlwm. Having taken fome rcfreihment at a public houfe,. and difmiffed the guide, I continued my journey to Caerau, where I did not arrive till late in the evening. Anxious to complete my tour in the mountains, I quitted Caerau early next morning, in company with Mr. Evans, and returned to Riica. Having break- fulcd, we mounted our horfes, rode along the vale, and crofTed the Ebwy near the influx of the Sorwy, over Pont y Cymmer ; where I obferved recent traces * of PENLLWYN HOUSE. 259 of the terrible ravages occafioned by the inundation of the torrent. Soon after- wards we afcended the fide of the hill, which bounds the vale, and continued along an elevated ridge, through thickets, corn fields, and meadows, fprinkled with hamlets, watered by numerous torrents, and overlooking the Sorwy. The features of this vale are more wild and romantic than thofe of the Ebwy ; it is .narrower and deeper ; and the {helving declivities, laid out in meadows, flrctch to the edge of the torrent, which roars in a profound abyfs, ob feu red by over- hanging trees. We palled under Caerllwyn, or the high place of the encamp- ment, defcended to the banks of the Sorwy, eroded over a ftone bridge, and went up a ffceep road, leading to Penllwyn, where we enjoyed a pleafing view of the vale, which feemed to ftretch in a femicircular direction. Penllwyn Houfe, the ancient manfion of a collateral branch of the Morgan fa- mily, is delightfully fituated on the brow of the eminence overhanging the Sorwy, in the midft of arable and pafture grounds, which defcend to the banks of the Rumney. The lafl male of this line was Henry Morgan, who died without iflue in 1 757. From his popularity and influence in thefe parts, he was called the king of the hills; and in a contefted election has been known to pour down with a numerous body of voters, with whom thefe diftricts were peopled. His name" is ftill mentioned with endearment, by thole who experienced his hofpitality and benevolence, and their defendants are taught to revere his memory. On his ■death his filler Florence conveyed the eftate to her hufband John Jones, elq. of Lanarth, and it now belongs to their grandlbn. The manfion is now a farm houfe, and contains few traces of its former occu- piers, except two paintings ; one reprefents a whole length figure of a man in a buff jacket, with a fword pendent from a fafh acrofs his moulders, holding a fpear in his right hand ; his head bare, and hair flowing, in the coflume of the age of Charles the firfl ; a boy with a beautiful countenance, in a red drefs, is delivering to him his helmet ; both have large boots and gilt fpurs. The other picture reprefents a lady in a black hood and gown, with flafhed fleeves, fitting ; near her is the figure of the fame boy, holding a fpear in one hand, and her gloves L 1 2 in a6o CHAPTE R 27. in the other. They are the portraits of a Mr. Morgan and his wife ; he was of the* Lantarnam family, and fettled at Penros ; the boy is their fon, who was unfor- tunately killed by Mr. Williams of Caerleon. His only daughter married Edmund Morgan of Penllwyn ; the father of Henry and Florence. Thefe pictures feem to be of the age and ftyle of Dobfon, and are in good prefervation. The venerable appearance of this old manfion is much heightened by the made of fomc tall and fpreading fycamores, which feem coeval with the building. From Penllwyn, we walked acrofs fome pleafant meadows to Bydwellty place, a feat likewife belonging to that collateral branch of the Morgan family which was fettled at Caerleon ; to whofe defcendant, Mifs Morgan, it now belongs. It is alfo converted' into a farm houfe ; and exhibits remains of former fplendor and antiquity, in feveral gothic arches and doorways. In viliting the farm houfes, as well in the hilly difhricTts as in other parts of Monmouththire, I was ftruck with the enormous quantity of bacon with which they are ftored, frequently obferving feveral ranges of flitches fufpended from the cielingof the kitchen. Bacon is almoft the only meat ferved at the tables of the farmers, and with vegetables and the productions of the dairy, forms their diet. Thin oat cakes are a common fubftitute for bread, and the repafts are enlivened by the cwrw, their national liquor,, which the claflic writers have dig- nified with the name of cerevitia, and which is immortalized in the fongs of the bards ; to defcend to common language, it is new ale in a turbid ftate, before it is clarified by fermentation. To perfons accuftomed to clear and old malt liquor, this beverage is extremely forbidding to the fight, and naufeous to the tafte ; but I had lb much of the blood of the ancient Britons in my veins, that I fooa became accuftomed to their cwrw, and preferred it to our Saxon beer. The principal articles of diet among the labourers, are oat cakes, potatoes, milk, and cheefe, with an inferior fpecies of cwrw. Almoftevery cottage is provid- ed with a fmall garden, and the greater part are even enabled to keep a cow, which ranges the commons for fubfiftence. The comforts of the cottager are increafed by the abundance of fuel, either of coal or wood, which prevails in every part of the country j and tlie price of labour being the fame as in moft of the counties in England. BYDWELLTY CHU ft CH. 261 England, with thefe additional comforts, the condition of the peafantry in Mon- mouthfliire is very advantageous. It is impoflible to travel in Monmouthfhire without being ftruck with the ap- pearance of neatnefs and cheerfulnefs, which refults from the cuftom of white- warning the houfes; on account of the abundance of lime, this operation is- annually performed, both within and without, and greatly contributes to the health of the inhabitants. The white colour of thefe dwellings, fcattered along the fummits and fides of the hills, and furrounded with foliage of different hues, con- fiderably heightens the picturefque effect of the diverfified landfcapes. From Bydwellty place we walked through the fields, till we remounted our horfes, and continued along a ftrait broad road, which was in many parts pitched or paved with large flag ftones, and exhibited occasional veftiges of an ancient caufeway. In one of the introductory chapters I have fully defcribed its appear- ance, and given the reafons which induced me to believe that it was the fite of a Roman way ; it led us along the level fummit of the mountain to Bydwellty church, fituated on an eminence overlooking a fruitful expanfe of hill and dale, in the counties of Monmouth, Glamorgan, and Brecknock, which comprehends the rich vale of Carno ; the diftricts fertilifed by the Rumney j the romantic vallies of the Ebwy and Sorwy ; and the whole of the beautiful and undulating country I vifited in thefe excurfions. This varied and extenfive view ftruck me with no lefs admiration than furprife ; and I did not omit to exprefs my thanks to Mr. Evans for the pleafure which 1 had derived from the wilds of Monmouthfhire. The church of Bydwellty is a gothic ftructure of fome antiquity ; the fquare embattled tower is built with brown rubble, and coigned with hewn ftone ; the battlements as well as the body are white-wafhed. The infide confifts of a nave, a north aifle, and chancel ; the nave and chancel are feparated from the north aifle by a range of low pointed arches, repofing on maflive columns, the fhafts two feet eight inches in diameter, and not more than three feet and a half in height. It is dedicated to St. Sannan, another Welfh faint, of whofe lineage and merits I am ignorant, and is, with Bedwas, held in commendam by the fee of Landaff. The church yard is fur- rounded z6z CHAPTER 27. rounded with veftiges of ancient entrenchments, but are fo much effaced by the plough, that their exact form cannot be afcertained. A lane winds down the fteep fides of a rugged declivity to the banks of the Sorwy, where a bold ftone bridge of a fingle arch is thrown over its rocky chan- nel. The view from the bridge is peculiarly wild; the glen diminished to a hollow between lofty and fteep eminences covered with forefts, is wholly oc- cupied by the impetuous torrent. In this folitary fpot, a peafant has fixed his cottage, and cleared a fmall piece of pafture ground on the edge of the river. From the bridge we mounted the oppofite eminence, and pafTed through the diftricl of Crofs pen Main, which exhibits a fucceflion of farms and cottages, fometimes detached and fometimes in fmall groups. The greater part of the inhabitants are freeholders, and their dwellings difplay an appearance of comfort and independence which is highly pleafing. In the midft of the hamlet is a fmall but neat public houfe, where fportfmen, who frequent thefe mountains for growfe fhooting, are accommodated for the night. About half a mile farther, the road divides, near the brow of the eminence overlooking the Ebwy ; Mr. Evans followed the branch leading by Newbridge to llifca, and I defcended a fteep road, covered with loofe ftoneslike the bed of a torrent, towards Crumlin bridge, enjoying the profpect of the vale from Newbridge to the junction of the two rivers. I had frequently experienced the good effects of Mr. Evans's interpofition with the natives who were unacquainted with Englifh, but I never felt greater regret at his abfence than when I called at the public houfe : the only perfon within was an old woman, who in reply to my requeft of refrefhment for myfclf, and corn for my horfe, repeatedly anfwered " dim Saefonaeg" or no Englifh. After ineffectual attempts to make myfelf underftood, I fortunately articulated cwrw, which brought a fmile on her countenance, and a mug of ale on the table ; ftill, however, I was without refrefhment, and my horfe without corn, and we had fafted nearly twelve hours. While I was meditating whether I fhould feck another public houfe, or continue my journey to Pont y Pool, I was relieved from my embarraftinent by a labourer, who called for a mug of cwrw ; as he fpoke CROSS PEN MAIN. 265 fpoke both Englifh and Welfh, he explained my wants ; I made a hearty meal on fome toafted bread and cheefe, the rare bit of the country, and divided the cvvrw with my horfe j I took the liquor, and he the grains, the only provender to be obtained in the place. Our refpective meals did not detain us long; I. crofted Crumlin bridge, and continued to Pont y Pool park, along the fame defile which I before traverfed, the pleating fcenery of which was foftened by the gleams of the moon mining on the furface of the lake at the eaftern extre- mity of the vale. C 264 ] CHAPTER 28. Road from Pont y Pool to Abergavenny. — Mamhilad. — Lanover. — Church. — Ancient Families of Cecil and Rumfey. — Excarjions to Coed y Prior and Goytre. T N my way from Pont y Pool to Abergavenny, I croffed the Avon Lwyd, over ■*■ a bridge called Pont y Moel, at the extremity of Mr. Leigh's park, and in a mile entered the high road leading from Newport to Abergavenny*. Soon after- wards I pafl'ed the church of Lanvihangel Pont y Moel, and a farm called Great Monkfwood, which was formerly a religious houfe belonging to the abbey of Tin- tern, and preferves the appearance of its former condition in its gothic doorways. A little beyond the road divides ; one branch leads to Ufk by Little Monkfwood larm and chapel, at the foot of wooded eminences ; the other, which I followed, turns to the north, and proceeds ftrait to Mamhilad, a village with a fmall gothic church, which is a chapel of eafe to Lanover. The church yard contains no lefs than twelve fine yew trees, of which the girth of the largeft was twenty-five feet. From Mamhilad the road continues in a rectilinear direction ; leaves the grounds of Mr. Waddington, at Lanover, on the right, crofTes the Ufk at Lanellen, over a wooden bridge, and joins the high road from the New PafTage, Ufk, and Monmouth, oppofite Coldbrook houfe, about a mile from Aberga- venny. Of all the roads I traverfed in this delightful country, part of this from Pont y Pool to Abergavenny is not the lead interesting; the country is gently waving, Hopes gradually into the vale of the Ufk, and for a considerable way commands the ferpentine courfe of that beautiful river. It is fkirted on the weftern fide by a chain of undulating hills, commencing with the rich eminence of * At this point the diilances from feveral parts of the county are marked on a flat (tone. Miles. Miles. From Pont y Pool - - - - 1 Monmouth ----19 To U(k 6 Chepftow ao Caerleon 7 New Paflage - - - - 20 Newport 9 From London - . - 148 Abergavenny ----- 9 LA NO V E R. 165 of Pont y Pool park, mantled with wood, and interfperfed with occalional fields of corn and pafture, till they approach the naked ridge of the Blorenge. Lanover houfe, the feat of Benjamin Waddington, efq. is fituated to the right of the high road, nearly midway between Pont y Pool and Abergavenny. In this delightful fpot I conftantly experienced a kind and hofpitable reception, and pafled much of my time during my continuance in Monmouthshire ; the commodious diftance from Abergavenny, Lanfanfraed, Clytha, Ufk, and Pont y Pool park, enabled me to enjoy the fociety of my friends, while I was exploring the beauties of the adjacent country. The parifh of Lanover, comprehending an extenfive diftrict, ftretches beyond Blaenavon and Pont y Pool, and is the mother church of the chapels of Trevethin, Mamhilad, and Capel Nywydd. The houfe ftands on a gentle rife, near the torrent Rhyd y Mirch, which falls from the neighbouring hills, and riphng through the grounds, hallens towards the Uflc. In the front the rich meadows fink into an oval vale, inter- fered by the meandering Ulk, and lkirted by a range of gentle elevations, dotted with numerous leats churches and hamlets ; beyond thefe rite in a grand fucceffion, hills and mountains which combine the varieties of light and made, and vie in the contrail and Angularity of their forms. The extre- mity of the vale is clofed by the Clytha hills, mantled with wood; the elegant and wooded fwell of the Little Skyrrid is backed by the majedic top of St. Michael's mount ; the gloomy and irregular mafs of the Black mountains bound the diftaftt horizon ; to thefe lucceed the rutiet fummits of the Gaer and Brynaro, the four Pen y Vale Hills, which form beautiful undulations above the town of Abergavenny, and are crowned by the Sugar Loaf. Beyond the Sugar Loaf, the perfpecxive of the Vale of the Uik terminates in the rugged crags in the vicinity of Crickhowel ; oppofite, towers the magnificent Blorenge, and joins the chain of hills which ftreich to Pont y Pool. In no part of Monmouthlhire are the forms of thefe mountains more beauti- fully contrafted : the flowing outline of the Sugar Loaf here prefented itfelf with peculiar effect, particularly at the clofe of evening, when the fun gradually de- clines behind the Blorenge; the valley was immerfed in {hade, the hollows be- M m twee a 2 66 CHAPTER 28. tween the mountains filled with luminous vapour, and the fummit tinged with a purple hue, till " Twilight grey " Had in her fober livery all things clad." The church of Lanover (lands in a romantic pofition, on the banks of the Ufk, about half a mile from the houfe ; it is a handfome gothic edifice, confifling of a high embattled tower of hewn ftone, a nave, and a chancel, and by the care of Mr. Waddington is kept in an extraordinary ftate of order and neatnefs. On examining the fepulchral inferiptions, I was (truck with a fingular inftance of that pride of anceftry for which the Welfh were formerly dirtinguifhed, which excited emulation in the age of chivalry, and furnifhed themes of never failing incenfe to. the bards of yore : " Here LAN OVER CHUR CH LAN OVER CHURCH. 267 8 4 CHAPTER 30. ruins of White Caftle. A deep, broad and extenfivc entrenchment, in the grounds near the houfe, and an artificial mound of earth, on which the church is built, feem to prove, that in early times there was in this fpot a place of defence. Landeilo Houfe was long the feat of a younger branch of the family of Powell* defcended from the Herberts ; this family was once extremely numerous, parti- cularly in this part of Monmouthfhire, and feveral of their feats being fituated near the Trothy, it became a common faying, that the banks of the Trothy were never without a Powell. The male line being extinct on the death of Matthew, his filler Mary conveyed the eftate to her hufband John Lewis, efq. of Caer- marthenfhire, and their fon Richard Lewis, efq. is the prcfent proprietor. The manfion is a handlbme and convenient modern edifice, and was built by the late Mr. Lewis. Among a few portraits are thofe of three brothers, fons of the Rev. **** Howell, minifter of Abernant, in Caermarthenfhire, two of whom were remarkable in the hiftory of the times. One is the head of Thomas. Howell, bifhop of Briftol ; he was born in 1588, and became fcholar and fellow of Jefus college in the univerfity of Oxford ; he was chaplain to king Charles the firft, promoted to the rectories of St. Stephen's in Walbrook, London, and •Weft Horfely in Surry, and in 1636 made canon of Windfor. At the beginning of the troubles he was driven by perfecution from both his livings, which were then fequeftered for his ab fence. The king, compaffionating his misfortunes* nominated him to the fee of Briftol ; but this elevation was the caufe of his fufferings and death. " He met r " fays Walker, " with barbarous ufage from the hands of the rebels. His palace, which was then covered with lead, they uncafed and fold the lead ; fo that he was expofed to the weather by day and by night. His lady they knew then to be in child-bed, in which condition it rained freely upon her. After many other indignities, they pulled and hailed him vio- lently out of the palace. In a word, their ufage towards him was fuch, that he did not long furvive their cruelty j but being a perfon of a mild and tender fpirit, died foon after." " He was accounted," faith Wood, " a meek man, and a good 4 preacher, LANDEI LO CRESSENEY. 285 preacher, and had in his younger days been a very painful one." Lloyd adds, " that he was a perfon of great clearnefs, candour, folidnefs, fweetnefs, and elo- quence; that he had an infight into flate affairs, as well as the more peculiar concerns of his own function ; that though he found few well affected in his diocefe at his coming thither, yet he left few ill affected in it at his death ; and that he was fo well beloved at Briftol, that 'tis faid, after his deceafe (which hap- pened in 1646) the city took upon them the care of his childrens' education, (who were eleven in number) in gratitude to the memory of their molt worthy father*." The other painting is a fmall whole length figure of his younger brother James, in a Spanifh drefs, leaning againft a tree, from which the print prefixed to fome of his works is taken. This fingular man was born about 1594, and, to ufe his own words, " his afcendant was that hot conflellation of Cancer about the midft of the dog days." He was brought up in the free fchool of Hereford, and " under a learned but lajliing m after" made a confiderable progrefs in claffical literature. He completed his education at Jefus college, and after taking his bachelor's degree, " tumbled out into the world, a pure cadet, a true " cofmopolite, not born to land, leaf©, houfe or office -f-. He commenced his. career as fteward to a glafs houfe, conducted by perfons of the firft rank and fortune, travelled as agent for the company through the Low Countries, France, Portugal, Spain and Italy, and acquired fuch a knowledge of languages, that he faid, " Thank God, I have the fruit of my foreign travels, that I can pray to him every day in the week in a feparate language, and upon Sunday in /even." Soon after his return to England, he was appointed fellow of Jefus college, " which," to ufe his own expreflions, " he referved and laid by as a good warm garment in rough weather." Finding " his glafs employment too brittle a foun- dation to build a fortune upon," he accepted the place of governor to the fons of lord Savage ; but foon quitted that office, on account of his youth and difference of religion, and accompanied the fon of baron Altham in his travels into France. During a refidence at Poifly, he purfued his ftudies with fuch intenfenefs as to endanger his life. Being * Walker's Sufferings of the Clergy, &c. part z, p. 3. t Letters, p. 299. lU C H A P T E R 30. Being on his return to England reftored to health by the flull of the celebrated doctor Harvey, he was appointed by the king agent at Madrid, to obtain the re- 1 \ ery of a rich Englifh (hip confifcated by the viceroy of Sardinia, and in cafe of fuccefs waspromifed a reward of £. 3,000. Having nearly brought the affair to a favourable conclufion, " the breaking of the Spanifi match broke the neck of " the ivho/e bnfnefs and he returned to England as unprovided as he went. He now paid his court to the duke of Buckingham, the great difpenfer of royal favour, and being gracioufly received, entertained fanguine expectations of (peedy promotion. But finding his hopes difappointed after two years attend- ance, and juftly concluding " that an acre of performance is zvorth a zvho/e land of promife" he accepted the office of fecretary to lord Scrope afterwards earl of Sunderland, lord prefident of the north, and accompanied him to York, from whence he wrote to his friend Daniel Caldwell : " For this prefent condition of life I thank God I live well and contented, I have a fee from the king, diet for myf elf and tzvo fervants, livery for a horfe, and part of the king's houfe for my lodging *.** He received great marks of favour from the earl of Strafford, who fucceeded lord Scrope in the prefidency of the north, but continued with the latter as his private fecretary until his death. Soon after that event he went in 1632 as fecretary to Robert earl of Leicefter, embaffador extraordinary to the court of Denmark. After his return to England he continued unemployed, excepting a jingle miffion to Orleans, until 1639, when he repaired to Dublin, and threw himfelf on the protection of the earl of Strafford, lord deputy, from whom he had received many warm profeffions which his lordfhip did not belie; he ob- tained the reverfion of the clerkihip of the council, and the office of affiftant clerk. In 1640 he was fent to France on a fecret miffion, and experienced a flat- tering reception from cardinal Richlieu ; in the fubfequent year he was appointed .clerk of the council, but did not long enjoy this honourable and lucrative office; for in 1643 he was feifed by a committee of the parliament, and con- fined in the Fleet prifoa, partly for his known attachment to the royal caufe, and » Letters, p. 198. LANDEILO CRESSENEY. 287 and partly for debt, where he maintained himfelf by his writings. " Here" he lays, " / pur chafed a fmall fpot of ground upon Parnajjus, which I had in fee of " the mufeSy arid I have endeavoured to manure it as well as I could, though I con- *' fcjs it hath yielded me little fruit hitherto." This fee farm of themufes however, \\\. considerably productive, and according to Wood, brought him a comfort- able fubfiftance, during an imprifonment of feveral years, and maintained him after his enlargement until the restoration, when Charles the fecond conferred upon him the place of historiographer royal, which was created exprefsly in his favour. He died in 1666, and was buried in the temple church, where a monument was erected to his memory, with an inicription partly compofed by himfelf, defcriptive * of his chequered life. His writings were as multifarious and chequered as his life, and fo numerous that the bare catalogue fills nearly three pages in the Athens Oxonienfes. Ac- cording to Anthony Wood, " he had a Singular command of his pen, whether in M profe or verfe, and was well read in modern histories, efpecially in the hiftory ** of the countries wherein he had travelled, and had a parabolical and allufive <£ fancy according to his motto " fenefco non fegnefco." Of all his numerous writings, his familiar letters alone are known to posterity, and havepaSTed through many editions ; they are recommended no lefs by their native fprightlinefs, than by the historical information which they contain \. The church of Landeilo CreSTeney is a large handfome gothic building with a body and tower of Stone, and a "high fpire covered with Shingles, which forms a Striking object from every part of the furrounding country. About twelve years ago this fpire was Struck with lightning in the middle of the night; a man in the vicinity of White CaStle firft faw the blaze, and hastening to Landeilo roufed the family, who were buried in Sleep, but were timely awakened to aSlilt in extinguifliing the conflagration. The •' Jacobus Howe!! Cambro Britannus, Regius Hif- f See Howell's familiar letters, paflim ; Wood's " toriographus in Anglia primus, qui poll varias pe- Athena: Oxonienfes, vol. 2. p. 381 ; and Biographia " regrinationes tandem naturas curfum percgit, fatur Britannica, art. James Howell. * annorum & famas, domi forifque hue ufque erra- •** ticus, hie fixus 1666." 2 S3 CHAPTER 30. The family of Powell were confidcrable benefactors to the parifh of Landeilo; among their charities are the following ; a free fchool for the whole parifh, the matter of which has a houfe and garden, ten acres of land, and a falary of £.30 per annum ; an eftate that now rents for £. 20, but will foon be railed to £.30, for apprenticing boys and girls ; {. 12 a year to be diftributed in bread to the parifhes of Landeilo and Tregaer; £.20 per annum were alfo left by Mr. Williams of this parifh, to be given annually to twenty perfons who do not re- ceive alms. Mr. Lewis pointed out to me, in the midtt of an adjoining field, which is part of a farm belonging to the duke of Beaufort, called the Park, the fite of Old Court, formerly the refidence of the celebrated fir David Gam, who being fent to reconnoitre the French before the battle of Agincourt. faid to Henry the fifth, " An't pleafe you my liege they are enough to be killed, enough to run away, and enough tol>e taken prifoners." " King Henry," adds the Cam- brian hiftorian, in relating this adventure, " was well pleafed and much en- couraged by this refolute and undaunted anfwer of fir David's, whofe tongue did not exprefs more valour than his hands performed. For in the heat of battle, the king's perfon being in danger, fir David charged the enemy with that eagernefs and mafculine bravery, that they were glad to give ground, and fo fe- cured the king, though with the lofs of much blood and alfo his life, himfelf and his fon-in-law Roger Vaughan, and his kinfman Walter Llwyd of Brecknock having received their mortal wounds in that encounter. When the king heard of their condition, how that they were paft all hopes of recovery, he came to them, and in recompence of their good fervices, knighted them all three in the field, where they foon after died ; and fo ended the life, but not the fame of the fignally valiant fir David Gam *," Many accounts are related of the numerous progeny begotten by this valour- ous knight, but the tradition of this place out-herods Herod ; it is afTerted that his children formed a line reaching from his houfe to the church : from Gladys, one of thefe children, the dukes of Beaufort and the earls of Pembroke -f- are de- fended, * Powell's Hiltory of Wales, p. jij, 323. f See the chapter on Abergavenny. GRACE DIEU. 289 fcended. This farm contains upwards of 200 acres, and was formerly the red deer park belonging to Raglan caftle. About a mile to the fouth of the high road leading from Landeilo Creffeney to Monmouth, is a firm vulgarly called Parker's Due, a corruption, as the Rev. William Rogers of Perthir informs me, of Pare 'ras Dieu, the park belonging to the abbey of Grace Dieu. It is the fite of the original lodge, of which fome traces are apparent in a few fragments of hewn ftone walls adjoining to the dairy. From the farm the remains of a fine avenue of ancient elms lead to the left bank of the Trothy, on the other fide of which, at a little diftance, ftand the ruins of the abbey, in a fequeftered fituation, in the midft of fertile meadows. Thele ruins are extremely insignificant, confiding only of part of a barn and a few detached fragments of walls. Leland juftly defcribes it as furrounded by good paftures *, for the adjacent meadows on the banks of the Trothy are among the richefl in Monmouthfhire, and are let at three guineas an acre. The circum- jacent country abounds with orchards which yield excellent cider; thofe belong- ing to the farm were formerly fo numerous as to occafion a common faying, that an apple from each tree would produce a hogfhead of cider. According to Dugdale Grace Dieu was a fmall Ciftercian abbey, founded in 1229 by John of Monmouth, on Trody, ripa dextra, two miles from Monmouth, W. N. W. to the honour of the Virgin Mary, but was wholly deftroyed by the Welfh in 1233, It was, however, afterwards partly rebuilt, for at the diffolution it contained two monks, and was valued at £. 26. 1 s. \d. per annum. The fite was granted, 37 of Henry 8, to Thomas Herbert and William Bretton -}-. Mr. Lorimer poflelfes the ancient feal of this abbey, which bears the figure of an abbot, and the infeription sigil-lvm aebatis de gratia dei et con- vent : * " Grace of Dew, an abbey of White Monkes !th betwixt Wiflc and Raglande, Hi miles from Ciir- (tending in a wood, and having a rille running by wide, and iiii from Raglande." Itin. vol. 5, p. a. hit. Veri good paftures be about this place. It Itond- f Dugdale, Monaftkon. — Tanner. P p C 290 ] CHAPTER 31. Monmouth. — Charter. — Population. — Monmouth Caps. — Free School. — Church of St. Mary. — Ancient Priory. — Study of Geoffrey of Monmouth. — Obfervations on his Hi/lory. — Church of St. Thomas. — Chippenham Meadow. — Kymin. — Vie%v from the Pavilion. "TV /f ONMOUTH, the capital of the county, (lands near the conflux of the ^ Wy and Monnow, and from that fituation derives its name*. The po- rtion is delightful ; it is wholly furrounded by gentle hills and fwelling eminences, moftly covered from their bafes to their fummits with rich woods, or laid out in fields of corn and pafture. The views of the town from the environs are fingularly diverfified ; from fome parts it appears as if feated wholly in a plain ; to the weft, on the other fide of the Monnovv, and from fome level meadows called Tibb's farm, it feems perched on the precipitous and femicircular ridge, which forms the left bank of the river. In one point of view, near a piclurcfque bridge over the Monnow, the ftene \ is peculiarly wild and romantic ; the fpire of the church and the remains of the priory are almoft the only objecls which rife above the thick mantle of wood. The townprefents itfelf from the banks of the Wy with a very different afpedt; the houfes rife on the fides of a hill, like the feats cf an amphitheatre, with the elevated fpire of the church towering in the midfb, and the eminence crowned by the caftle houfe. A broad • It is called in Welfh fometimes Aberfyno, w hich more commonly Trefynwy, or a town cn the Mon» has the fame fignifkation as the Englifh name ; but now and Wy. t See the annexed engraving. futli.s/iai Marc/ii.idoo, byCadcll ScDavie.t, Strand M O N M OUT H. 291 A broad and handfome ftreet leads from the bridge over the Monnow to the market place, which is ornamented with a new town hall, built on pillars, forming a handfome colonnade. Over the front is a niche containing a ftatue of Henry the fifth, the glory of Monmouth, in an awkward attitude, with an inlcription commemorating his birth. From the market place a lane goes to the caftle, and to the banks of the Monnow ; a narrow ftreet leads towards St. Mary's church, from whence it turns to the Wy, where a ftone bridge of feveral arches is thrown acrofs the river. From the church a range of detached houfes, ap- pearing like villas, forming White Crofs and. Monks' ftreet, fkirts the Hereford road, and overlooks the rich meadows watere'd by the limpid and meandring Monnow. At a little diftance from the extremity of this range Hands the county jail, a ftone building of mafiive ftrength, impending over the Monnow, which well deferves to be vifited by the traveller, for the commodious diftribution of the whole, the airinefs of the apartments, the propriety of its regulations, and the ftrict attention paid to the cleanlinefs and morals of the prifoners. A delightful walk bends alfofrom Monks' ftreet, along the banks of the Monnow to the iron works of Partridge and company. Monmouth is a borough and corporate town, governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, and common-council men. The earlier! charter in the archives of the duchy is dated m 1549 ; it was granted by Edward the fixth, " to the burgeffes of his burg and town of Monmouth, in the marches of Wales, and within his duchy of Lancafter," and confirms various franchifes and privileges given by Henry the eighth, and the power of annually electing a mayor and two bailiffs. Monmouth firft fent a member to parliament in the 27 Henry 8 ; in 1680 the right of election was declared to belong to the burgeffes inhabitants, in con- junction with the burgeffes inhabitants of the towns of Newport and Ufk. Monmouth contains 600 houfes ; the average number of births in a year is between 70 and 80, and of burials 70 ; the population amounts to about 2,600 fouls. There are no manufactures, excepting the iron works of Partridge and com- P p 2 pany ; a 92 CHAPTER 31. pany ; the inhabitants are principally fupported by the navigation of the Wy, the trade with Hereford and Briftol, the fupply of the neighbouring diftri&s with various kinds of fliop goods, and the influx of company. Among the articles brought down the river, which give employment to many of the inhabitants, bark muft not be omitted ; it is conveyed in large quantities from the forefts of the Upper Wy, and landed on the banks, where, after being pared and cleanfcd, it is fent for exportation to Chepftow. I obferved on the fide of the river numerous piles of this commodity, as large as hay-ricks, from fifty to one hundred tons ; and noticed with pleafure the expedition and facility with which the operations of clcanfing and piling are performed. Caps once formed a confiderable branch of trade in Monmouth. In the days of Henry the fifth, and in fubfequent times, Monmouth caps were much efteemed. Fluellen, in Shakfpeare's Henry the fifth, alluding to this fafhion, addrefl'es the king : " If your majefties is remember'd of it. the Wellhmen did goot fervice in a garden where leeks did grow, wearing leeks in their Monmouth caps." From an old ballad of the Caps, printed in the Antidote againft Melan- choly, it appears they were particularly worn by foldicrs : " The foldiers that the Monmouth wear, " On caftles' tops their enfigns rear*." Fuller alfo in his Worthies gives a curious account of the Monmouth caps, and of the number of perfons employed in the manufacture f . A free * Quoted in Malone's Shakfpeare, a& iv. fc. 7. 2. fpinners, 3. knitters, 4.. parters of wool, 5. forfers, •f "Theft were the moft ancient, general, warm and 6. thickers, 7. dreifers, 8. walkers, 9. dyers, 10. bat- profitable coverings of men's heads in this ifland. It tellers, 11. (hearers, 12. preiTers, 13. edgers, i+. liners, is worth our pains to obferve the tendernefs of our 15. band makers, and other excrcifes. No wonder kings to preferve the trade of cap making, and what then that fo many ftatutcs were enacted in parliament long and ftrong ftniggling our flare had to keep up to encourage this handicraft." After enumerating- the ufing thereof, fo many thoufands of people being feveral aits of parliament pa (Ted in the reigns of maintained thereby in the land, efpecially before the Edward the fourth, Henry the eighth, and Eliiabeth, invention of fulling-mills, all caps before that time for the purpofe of encouraging their wear, he adds, being wrought, beaten, and thickened by the hands " Laltly, to keep up the ufage of caps, it was enacted and feet of men, till thofe mills, as they eafed many in the 13 of queen Eliz. cap. 19, that they (liould be of their labour, outed more of their livelihood. Cap- worn by all perfons (Come of worfhip and quality ex- ping anciently fet fifteen diltincl callings on work, as cepted) on fabboth and holydays, on the pain of for- th- y are reckoned up in the ilatute ; 1. carders, feiting ten groats for omiiLon thereof." « But 4 M O N M O U T H. 293 A free fchooi was founded at Monmouth in the reign of James the firft, by William Jones, haberdafher, who acquired a confiderable fortune by his own in- duftry. The tradition of the town gives a Angular ftory of its eftablifhment : he was a native of Newland in Glocefterfhire, but pafTed the early part of his life in a menial capacity at Monmouth ; from this fituation he became mop boy to a merchant in London, where his acutenefs procured his admifiion to the compting houfe, and he performed the office of clerk with fuch diligence, fkill, and fidelity, that he was employed by his mailer as a factor abroad, and afterwards taken into partnerlhip. Having raifed an ample fortune, he quitted London, returned to Newland under the appearance of great poverty, and made an application to the parifh : being tauntingly advifed to feek relief at Monmouth, where he had lived at fervice, and would find perfons difpofed to affift him, had he conducted him- felf with propriety, he repaired thither, and experienced the charity of feveral in- habitants. In gratitude for this reception, he founded a free fchooi on a liberal eftablifhment ; to the matter, a houfe with a falary of £.90 a year ; to the ufher, a falary of £-4-$ a year with a houfe ; and to a lecturer, for the purpofe of infpect- ing the alms houfes, reading prayers, and preaching a weekly fermon, an excel- lent houfe and garden, with a falary of £. 105 a year. He alfo built alms houfes for twenty poor people, leaving to each 3*. 6 d. a week*. The portrait of the founder, habited in the coftume of the age of James the firft, with an infeription, « Walter William Jones, haberdafher and merchant of London, Sec." is preferved in the fchooi room. The fchooi, at prefent, enjoys a high reputation under the care of the Rev. John Powell, a member of the univerfity of Oxford. The "But it feems nothing but hats would fit the heads better carved and gilded than any other part of the (or humours rather) of the Englifh, as fancied by church. But on the occafion of a great plague hap- them fitter to fence their fair faces from the injury of pening in this town, the trade was fome years iince wind and weather, fo that the 39 of queen Elizabeth removed hence to Beaudly in Worcefterlbire, yet fo this ftatute was repealed. Yea, the cap accounted by that they are called Monmouth caps unto this day. the Romans an emblem of liberty, is efteemed by the Thus this town retains, though not the profit, the Englifh (except falconers and hunters) a badge of credit of capping, and feeing the child keeps the fervitude, though very ufeful in themfelves, and the mother's name, there is fome hope in due time flic enfign of conftancy, becaufe not difcompoled, but may return to her." Fuller's Worthies, art. Mon- retaining their falhion, in what form foever they be mouthfhire. crouded. * Communicated by the Rev. Thomas Proffer the " The beft caps were formerly made at Monmouth, lecturer, where the capper's chapel doth ftill remain, being 294 CHAPTER 31. The church of the priory occupied the fite of St. Mary's, the prefent parifli church, and about fixty years ago was partly taken down and re-conflructed. The tower and lower part of the fpire are the only remains of the ancient edifice, which was highly venerable for its antiquity, and from a pointed arch in the bel- fry, and the ornamented weft window appears to have been built in the gothiq ftyle of architecture. The prefent edifice is of hewn ftone, and the tapering fpire, nearly 200 feet in height, forms a beautiful and confpicuous object, ftriking from its loftinefs and elegance. The body of the church is extremely light and well proportioned ; the range of columns which feparate the nave and the aifle, and fupport a ftrait entablature, have a pleafing effect. The traveller who is fond of profpects will afcend the tower, from whence he will enjoy a Angular bird's eye view of Monmouth, and the environs, watered by the Wy, the Monnow, and the Trothy ; from this central pofition he will likewife difcriminate the circular range of hills, whofc undulating outline and rich mantle of forefts, form a pleafing back ground from every part of the rich vale, in which the town is fituated. To the north of St. Mary's church are the remains of an alien Benedictine priory of black monks, dedicated to St. Mary, which was founded in the reign of Henry the firft, by Wihenoc, lord of Monmouth, and was a cell to the monaftery of St. Florence, near Salmur in Anjou. At the diflblution, it was valued at £.56. is. \\d. Richard Taltbufli, the laft prior, received a penfion of £-9** In the 4th of Philip and Mary, the fite was granted to Richard Price and Thomas Perry. In the reign of Queen Elifabeth, three fourths of the great tythes belonged to fir Charles Somerfet, of Troy houfe, knight, and one fourth to Mrs. Joan Rice, as her widow's jointure^. All the great tythes, and all the glebe land, except the houfe and orchard, now belong to the duke of Beaufort. In the beginning of this century, the priory houfe was occupied by Mr. Bcncd ictus Williams, a Roman catholic ; he fold it to Mr. William Adams, the father of William Adams Williams, efq. who married the heirefs of Langibby, to whom it now belongs. Tradition * Willis's Abbies, vol. z. p. 14a. from the regiftery of the conMory court of the f Communication by the Rev. Duncombe Davis, diocefe of Hereford. MONMOUTH. 295 Tradition ftill points out a fmall apartment of the priory as the library of Geof- frey of Monmouth ; it bears in the ceiling and windows remains of former mag- nificence, but is much more modern than the age of Geoffrey : it is now con- verted into a fchool room. Although the century in which Geoffrey flourilhed is known, yet neither his family, the time of his birth, nor the place of his edu- cation is afcertained ; we are only informed that he was born in this town, pro- bably educated in the monaftcry, became archdeacon of Monmouth, and was confecrated biihop of St. Afaph in 1 152. By fome he is called a monk of the Dominican order, but according to Leland, without iufficient authority; by others he is ftyled a cardinal, but has no more claim to that dignity than his heroes have to the actions which he makes them perform. He wrote a treatife on the holy facrament, and fome mifcellaneous verfes on Merlin ; yet neither of thefe performances wDia'ebihave refcued his name from oblivion, had not chance made him the tranflbtror ' bf a Britilh Hiftory, prefented to him in the original language, by Walter, archueacon of Oxford*. This hiftory has occafioned a long controverfy, and divided the learned world as much as any other work ever given to the public : by fome it has been treated as a forgery impofed upon the world by Geoffrey himfelf ; by others, the ground work is confidered as true, although the hiftory, like moft monk- ilh writings', is mixed with childilh fables and legendary tales. Thompfon, the tranflator of the Britifh Hiftory, has written an elaborate vindication of the work, and defends Geoffrey with great fkill and learning ; but after refuting the charge of forgery, he has failed in eftablilhing it as an hiftorical perform- ance ; for he himfelf invalidates its authority by acknowledging, that it was only fuch an irregular account as the Britains were able to preferve in thofe times of deftruction and confufion ; befides fome other romantic tales, which indeed might be traditions among the Welih, and fuch as Geoffrey might think enter- taining ftories for the credulity of the times -f-. We have, however, no need of any other arguments than the confeiTion of Geoffrey himfelf, who acknowledges that the Hiftory of Britain was not zv 'holly a tranflation * Brut y Breninodil, or the Chronicle of the Kings of Britain. f Preface, p. xxxvii. lxvii. 29 6 CHAPTER 31. transition of the Welsh manufcript ; he avows that he added feveral parts, particularly Merlin's prophecies, and inferted fome circumftances " which he had heard from that molt learned hiftorian, Walter archdeacon of Oxford." The controverfy is at length finally decided, and the beft Welfh critics allow, that Geoffrey's work was a vitiated translation of the Hiftory of the Britifh kings, written by Tyflilio, or St. Teliau, bilhop of St. Aiaph, who flourifhed in the feventh century. Geoffrey in his work omitted many parts, made confiderable alterations, additions, and interpolations, latinifed many of the Britifh appel- lations, and in the opinion of a learned Welfhman, murdered Tyflilio* ; we may therefore conclude, that Geoffrey ought to be no more cited as historical autho- rity than Amadis de Gaul, or the Seven Champions of Chriftendom. But whatever opinion may be entertained, in regard to its authenticity, Geoffrey's Britifh Hiftory forms anew epoch in the literature of this country ; and next to the Hiftory of Charlemagne, by Turpin, probably written in the eleventh century, was the firft production which introduced that fpecies of composition called romance. The work of Geoffrey is extremely entertaining, and his fables have been frequently clothed in rhyme : in the thirteenth century, Robert, a monk of the abbey of Gloccfter, wrote an hiftory of England in verfe, in the Alexandrian meafure, from Brutus to the reign of Edward the firft. Warton jufcly obferves, in his hiftory of Englifh poetry, " that the tales have often a more poetical air in Jeffery's profe than in this rhyming chronicle, which is totally deftitute of art or imagination, and from its obfolete language, lcarcely intelligible." This hiftorical romance, however, was not only verfified by monkifh writers, but fupplied fome of our beft poets with materials for their fublime compofitions. Spencer, in the fecond book of his Faerie Queene, has given, " A chronicle of Briton kings, " From Brute to Arthur's rayne ;" In which he adorns the genealogy with poetical images, and introduces it with a fublime addrefs to queen Elifabeth, who was proud of tracing her defcent from the Britifh line : Thy • Letter from Lewis Morris to Edward Richard. Cambrian Register for 1795, p. 347- M O N M O U T II. 297 " Thy name, O foveraine Queenc, thy realnie and race, " From this renowmed prince derived arrc, " Who mightily upheld that royall mace " Which now thou bear'ft, to thee dei'cended farrc " From mighty kings and conquerours in warre, " Thy fathers and grandfathers of old, " Whofe noble deeds above the northerne ftarre, " Immortall fame for ever hath enrold ; " As in that old man's booke they were in order told." In this hiftorical romance is alfo to be found, the affecting hiftory of Lea- king of Britain, the eleventh in fucceflion after Brutus, who divided his king- dom between Gonorilla and Regan his two elder daughters, and difinherited his youngeft daughter Cordeilla. Being ungratefully treated by his elder daugh- ters, he was reftored to the crown by Cordeilla, who efpoufed Aganippus king of the Franks *. From this account the divine bard of Avon felecled his in- comparable tragedy of king Lear ; but improved the pathos by making the death of Cordeilla (which name he foftened after the example of Spenfer into Cordelia) precede that of Lear, while in the original ftory, the aged father is reftored to his kingdom, and furvived by Cordeilla. Milton feems to have been particularly fond of Geoffrey's tales, to which he was indebted for the beautiful fiction of Sabrina in the mafk of Comus. In his youth he even formed the defign of making the early period of the Britifh hiftory, fr jra Brutus to Arthur, the fubject of an epic poem-f- . The poetical language of was alfo adopted by Garrick, and has been fince uni- formly followed, but according to the opinion of Addifon, the tragedy has loll half its beauty. See- Stevens's Shxkl'peare. t In his Epitaphium Damonis he fays, " Ite domum impafti, domino jam non vacat, agni, " Ipfe ego Dardanias Rutupina per squora puppes " Dicam, et Pandraiidos regnum vetus Imogenias " Brenumque Arviragumque duces prifcumque Be- " linum, " Et tandem armoricos Britonum fub lege colonos ; " Tu gravidam Arturo fatali fraude Iogernem, « Mendaces vultus, aifumptaque Gorloi's arma " Merlini dolus."* Poem* upon feveral Occanons. Q q * Book ii. chap. xi. xii. xiii. Shakfpeare pro- bably took the firft hint of the tragedy of king Lear from Spenfer's Faerie Queene, who in the thirteenth canto of the fecond book, gives from Geoffrey a brief account of king Leir. He might have confulted a tranflation of Geoffrey of Monmouth, but he was principally indebted to Hollingfhed, who tranferibed it from Geoffrey's work, and alfo the " Trew Chro- " nicle Hiilory of king Leir and his three daughters, " Gonerill, Ragan and Cordelia," printed in 1605; but all thefe authors have copied the original hiftory. Tate has followed their ex ample, altered Shakfpeare's tragedy according to the itory, and reftored Lear to his kingdom, and Cordelia to life. This alteration 29 3 CHAPTER 31. of Milton was peculiarly fuitcd to this fpecies of romance ; he would have ex- alted the legends of Geoffrey, and enriched with the fineft imagery the incan- tations and prophecies of Merlin, the heroic deeds of Vortimer, Aurelius, and Uther Pendragonj " and what refounds, " In fable or romance, of Uther's fon, " Begirt with Britifh and Armoric knights." But we have no reafon to regret that in his more mature age he relinquished this defign, and compofcd an epic poem on a ftill more fublime plan : " Of man's firft difobedience, and the fruit " Of that forbidden tree, whofe mortal tafte " Brought death into the world, and all our woe, " With lofs of Eden." Dryden compofed a dramatic opera on the fubject of king Arthur, or the Britifh Worthy, whom he has finely defcribed ; " in battle brave " But flill ferene in all the ftormy war, " Like heaven above the clouds ; and after fight " As merciful and kind to vanquilh'd foe " As a forgiving God." He intended alfo to write an epic poem, either on the fubjecl: of Arthur, or of the Black Prince. This great author, who poffefl'ed the true tafte of poetry, and excelled in " that fairy kind of writing which depends upon the force of imagination," propofed to introduce as fupernatural agents, the guardian angels of kingdoms, or tutelary genii, and thus accommodate to chriftian ufe the phi- lofophy of Plato. At one period of his life, Pope refolved to undertake what Milton and Dryden relinquithed. He even drew a plan of an epic poem on the fubjecl: of Brutus and the eftablifhment of the Britifh monarchy, which is publifhed by Ruff- head ; it is extenfive and diverfificd, and capable of great effect if wrought with fancy, fpirit, and dignity. Although the poetical powers of Pope were inferior to thole of Milton and Dryden ; yet he has given evident proofs that he polfeffed 3 the INSIDE Or ST THOMAS'S CHURCH, FuMis/ieti M,uc/i i .i/ioo. byCadeH ADories-, Strand CHURCH OF ST THOMAS , AND MOXXOW BRIDGE , MONM OUTH. TuMistied March iz6oo by OidcU kUayics. Strand, . M O N M O U T H. 299 the genius of invention, by the beautiful machinery of the fylphs and gnomes in the Rape of the Lock. I feel much regret that Dryden or Pope did not proceed in their intended work, as we have no epic poem in our language on any great fubject of national hiftory, except the miferable produ&ions of Black- more *. The fuburbs of Monmouth ftretch beyond the Monnow, and occupy the fite of what was probably the Britifh town during the Saxon a?ra. Near the bridge of the Monnow ftands the ancient church of St. Thomas ; the fimplicity of its form, the circular fhape of the doorways and of the arch feparating the nave from the chancel, and the ftyle of their ornaments, which bear a Saxon character, feem to indicate that it was conftru&ed before the conqueft. The weflern window, as well as fome of the other apertures, which are ornamented gothic, have been evidently formed fince the original foundation -f . This church, which is in the diocefe of Landaff, is now a chapel of eafe to St. Mary's, and divine fervice is performed in it every Tuefday. The walks in the vicinity of Monmouth are extremely pleafant, particularly Chippenham meadow, which is a general rendezvous for company at the clofe of fummer evenings ; it is a flat oval plain, inclofed between the Wy, the Monnow, and the fouth fide of the town ; at the fouth-eaftern ex- tremity, the Monnow falls into the Wy, beneath a group of fine elms, which rife near the banks of the Trothy. The meadow is fkirted by gentle eminences, feathered with underwood, or clothed with hanging groves of oak and elm ; thefe are furmounted by higher ridges of hills and mountains, all mantled with wood, except the Craig y Dorth, the Kymin, and the Trelech hills. The general pofition of the furrounding eminences and diftant hills, may be feen from the annexed fketch, taken by Mr. Owen Tudor, bookfeller at Monmouth. The profpe&s from the hills in the vicinity differ from thofe to which I had hitherto been accuftomed in Monmouthfhire ; the country appears lefs wild and romantic, the eminences more thickly clothed with wood, the rivers lefs rapid * Ruffhead's life of Pope, p. 4.09, 424. John- church. 2. Infide. 3. The elevation of the doors, on fon's life of Pope, p. 125. the plate which contains the view of the hills in the f See the annexed views ; x. Of the outlide of the environs of Monmouth. Q q 2, 3 oo CHAPTER 31. rapid and impetuous, and the views partake more of the mild cad of Englifh fcenery. In fpring, the beauty of the profpect is confiderably increafed by the bloom of the apple trees ; from the heights above the numerous orchards appear at fome diftance like parterres of flowers, in the midft of lawns and groves, and the whole country fpreads beneath like a rich and extenfive garden. If among thefe views one can be felected furpaffing the reft, it is perhaps that from the fummit of the Kymin, which riles from the left bank of the Wy, and is fituated partly in Monmouthfhire and partly in Glocefterfhire. On the center of this eminence overhanging the river and town, a pavilion has been recentlv conftructed by fubfeription, to which is carried a walk, gently winding up the acclivity. The pavilion is a circular edifice, like an embattled tower; it contains two ftcries, of which the lower is a kitchen, and the upper a banqueting apartment, provided with five windows, commanding different views over Monmouthfhire, Glocefterfhire, and Herefordihire, backed by the diftant counties of Worcefter, Salop, Radnor, Brecon, Glamorgan, and Somerfet. I had the pleafure of dining in this delightful apartment, with a company of the Monmouth corps of volunteers, who afTembled in celebration of the king's birth day. I fhall not attempt to defcribe the unbounded expanfe of country which prefents itfelf around and beneath, and embraces a circumference of nearly three hundred miles. The eye fatiated with the diftant prolpccl:, repoles at length on the near views, dwells on the country immediately beneath and around, is attracted with the pleating pofition of Monmouth, here feen to fingular advantage, admires the elegant bend and filvery current of the Monnow, gliftening through meads, in its courfe towards the Wy, and the junction of the two rivers, which form an affemblage of beautiful objects. The level fummit of the Kymin is crowned with a beautiful wood, called Beaulieu Grove, through which walks are made terminating in feats, placed at the edge of abrupt declivities, and prefenting in perfpe&ive, through openings in the trees, portions of the unbounded expanfe feen from the pavilion. There are fix of thefe openings, three of which comprehend pcrfpe&ive views of Mon- mouth, THE KYMIN. 301 muth, ftretching between the Wy and the Monnow, in different portions. At one of thefe Teats placed on a ledge of impending rocks, I looked down on a hanging wood, clothing the fides of the declivity, and floping gradually to the Wy, which (weeps in a beautiful curve, from Dixon church to the mouth of the Monnow ; the town appears feated on its banks, and beyond the luxuriant and undulating fwells of IVJonmouthfhire, terminated by the Great and Little Skyrrid, the Black mountains, and the Sugar Loaf, in all the variety of fublime and conlrafted forms *. * Mr. Heath has publiflied a defcriptive account defcribes the perfpe£tive views from the feats in the of this pavilion, in which he gives a minute detail of Bcaulieu Grove, the different objects feen from the five windows, and [ 3°* J CHAPTER 32. Monmouth, ancient Blejiium. — A Saxon Fortrefs. — Ruins of the Cajlle.- — Hijlory.—~ Proprietors. — Anecdotes of Henry the Fifth before his Acceffion. TON MOUTH, or fome fpot in the vicinity, is fuppofed by Horfley and the beft informed antiquaries, to be the fite of a Roman ftation, the Ble- flium of Antoninus. No Roman antiquities have, however, been found in this town; and the difcovery of two coins of Conftantine the Great in 1767, in the garden of the Rev. Mr. Crow, matter of the free fchool*, and one of Caraufius, now in the pofTeffion of Mr. Parry, late mayor of the town, cannot be con- fidered as fufficient to confirm this opinion. The principal argument in its favour, is derived from the coincidence of its pofition with that of Bleflium in the Itineraries \. We know from hiftorical record, that Monmouth was a fortrefs in early times, and one of the ftrong holds occupied by the Saxons, to maintain their conquefts between the Severn and the Wy, and prevent the incurfions of the Wellh. The town appears to have been fortified with walls and a moat, except where it was fecured by the river. In Leland's time, parts of the dilapidated walls were ftill remaining, the moat entire, and the four gates {landing ; which he calls the monk's gate, to the north, the eaftern gate, the Wy gate, and the Monnow or vveflern gate : at prefent there are no veftiges of t'he walls, and the only part of the * Gough's Camden, vol. *. p. 483. f See the introduc'toiy chapter on the Roman ftations and roads. j CASTLE OF MONilOUTH. 303 the moat which can be traced, was pointed out to me by the Rev. Mr. Davis, vicar of St. Mary's, ftretching from the back of White Crofs ftrect, to the re- mains of an ancient gateway, in the ftreet near the Rofs turnpike, and from thence to the Wy. Of the four gates, mentioned by Leland, that called Monk's gate, which derived its appellation from the adjoining priory, flood near the Hereford road, but is now demolifhed ; parts of two round towers which flanked the eaftern gate, are vifible at the place above mentioned near the Rofs turnpike. I could not difcover the fmalleft veftiges or even tradition of the fituation of the Wy gate ; but the Monnow gate is ftill entire, and with the bridge on which it is built, bears the appearance of high antiquity ; the circular form of the arches and maflive folidity of the ftructure, prove in anterior to the conqueft ; it commanded the paflage of the Monnow, and was a barrier againft the Welih. The ruins of Monmouth caftle, conftructed with red grit ftone, ftand on the ridge of an eminence overlooking the Monnow and the adjacent meadows, and are fo much concealed by other buildings, as fcarcely to be vifible from the fide of the town ; the bed view of them is from the right bank of the Monnow, where they prefent an appearance of dilapidated grandeur, which recals to me- mory the times of feudal magnificence. The prefent remains are ftill confider- able, but principally covered with tenements, (tables, and out-houfes. Although the whole roof and parts of the fide walls are fallen, yet the fite of two remarkable apartments can be traced with exadtnefs ; one in which Henry the fifth was born, and the other adjoining to it, which, within the memory of feveral inhabi- tants, was ufed for the afllzes, and was not lefs than fixty-three feet in length and forty-fix in breadth. The apartment which gave birth to the Gwentonian hero, was an upper ftory, and the beams that fupported the floor ftill project from the fide walls 3 it was fifty-eight feet long, twenty-four broad, and was decorated with orna- mented gothic windows, of which fome are ftill remaining, and feem to be of the age of Henry the third. The walls of this part are not lefs than ten feet in thkknefs. About fifty years ago, a considerable portion of the fouthern wall fell down 3 o 4 C H A P T E R 32. down with a tremendous crafh, which alarmed the whole town, leaving a breach not lefs than forty feet in length. On the ground floor beneath are three circular arches terminating in chinks, which have a very ancient appear- ance, as may be feen from the iniide view*; at the north-eaftern angle within a {table, is a round tower fix feet in diameter, which was once a ftaircafe leading to the grand apartment. To the right of the apartment, which gave birth to Henry the fifth, a houfe, tenanted by Mr. Cecil of the Dyffrin, occupies part of the ancient fite : in the houfe and cellar may be traced veftiges of the original walls, and their maffive ftructure is worthy of particular obfervation ; they are from fix to ten feet in thicknefs, formed of pebbles and mortar, in the manner of Vitruvius, and are fo clolely compacted as not to yield in hardnefs to ftone itfelf. Camden erroneoufly afcribes the conftruction of this edifice to John of Mon- mouth, in the reign of Henry the third, by whom it was only repaired: fome antiquaries, in the contrary extreme, attribute it to the Romans. From the general afpect of the ruins, the caftle was undoubtedly founded at a very early period, and afterwards confiderably altered and augmented ; the greater part of the doorways and windows are indeed gothic, yet fome of a circular fliape bear a Saxon character. The hi (lory of the caflle will, perhaps, be a better criterion to afcertain the xra of its conftru&ion. A caftle exifted at Monmouth at a very early period, which retained in fubjec- tion the neighbouring diftricls, then included in the county of Hereford } at the time of the Norman conqueft f it probably belonged to the king ; for in Domefday Book, under Hereford fli ire, four caracutes of land, in the caftle of Monmouth, part of the royal demefne, were given in cuftody to William Fitz JBaderon, who poffefled two lordfhips in Hcrefordfhire and twelve in Glocefter- (hire. His fon William, as well as all his fuccefibrs, were furnamed de Monmoth, from * Pee the plate containing the view of the environs of Monmouth, " f In Caftello de Monemude habet Rex in dominio 1111 Caracutus, Wilhelmus I-'ilius Eaderon cufto- dit -eas." Damel'day Book, p. jSo*. CASTLE OF MONMOUTH. 3rt t 0°0 from this caftle ; it continued in the pofleffion of his descendants till the reign of Henry the third, when John de Monmouth was the proprietor. During the civil wars which diftradted his long and weak reign, Monmouth caftle was occafionally befieged and occupied by both parties : in thefe contcfls it fuffered repeated demolitions, of which one inftance is recorded by Lambarde, " The citie had once a caftle in it, where in tyme of Hen. III. Richard th erle marfhal affociatinge to him other noblemen, and mouinge warre againft the kinge, for that he more eftimed ftrangers borne, then his natural fubjects, gave him a fharpe conflicte and flew fundry of his fouldiors. Not long after th erle of Gloucefter having forfaken th erle of Leycefter, took for his fuccour the fame caftle and fortified it ; but Symon fpeedily following, affailed, toke, and raifed it to the ground. Thus the glorie of Monmouth had cleane perified, ne had it pleafed God longe after in that place to give life to the noble kinge Hen. V. who, of the lame, is called Henry of Monmouth *." In thefe times of civil difcord, Monmouth caftle was an object of fuch confe- quence to the royal party, that John de Monmouth having no iffue male, was induced to refign the caftle and honour to prince Edward, and his heirs for ever, in confideration of certain lands granted for life \. In * Lambarde's Dictionary. Leland alio fays, under the year 1264, " Abowte this tyme Simon Montfort enterid the caftle of Monmouth and racid it." Leland, Collect, vol. 1. fol. 661. \ PROPRIETORS OF MONMOUTH CASTLE. BADERON. I William of Monmouth. 1 Wihenoc. Baderon, Temp. H. 2. I Gilbert. John, d. 1248. I John, d. 1257, rcfi^ned Monmouth to Edward 1. HENRY III. ( Edward I. Edmund Crouchback, b. 1245, d. 1296. I Thomas, beh. 1322. Maud, m. 1. Ralph, fon of Ralph Lord Stafford ; 2. William Duke of Zealand, d. without iffue. R r 1 Henry, d. 1345. Henry, ill Duke of Lan- caller, d. 1362. Elanch— John of Gaunt. I Henry IV. I Henry V, 5 o6 CHAPTER 32. In 1267, on the furrender of prince Edward, Henry the third granted the caftle of Monmouth, together with many other polTemons, to his younger fon Edmund Crouchback, earl of Lancafter, and the grant was confirmed by Ed- ward the firil in the fifth year of his reign. Edmund left two fons, Thomas, beheaded for high treafon, and Henry who obtained the caftle of Monmouth, and thofe parts of his father's property not confifcated on his brother's at- tainder ; he increafed his pofiefTions and influence in Wales, by efpoufing Maud, daughter and heirefs of fir Patrick Chaworth. He died in 1345; his fon Henry, before created earl of Derby and Lincoln, fucceeded to his eftates and honours, and added ftill greater dignity to his illuftrious family ; he was the firft duke of Lancafter, and the fecond peer raifed to the ducal title *. Edward the third, in the twenty-fifth year of his reign, erected the county of Lancafter into a palatinate, granting to the duke for life regal rights and other privileges, and decreed that the duchy Ihould be governed by its own officers. His vaft poffeffions were divided between his two daughters, Maud and Blanch j but Maud dying without itfue, the whole property devolved on John of Ghent or Gaunt, third fon of Edward the third, and hufband of Blanch. He was created duke of Lancafter, obtained a grant of the jura regalia in per- petuity for the duchy, and a releafe of the eftates forfeited to the crown on the attainder of Thomas. After the death of Blanch, he efpoufed Conftantia daughter of Peter the cruel, king of Caftile, and in 1386 affumed the regal title, which he afterwards refigned, but was amply indemnified by the marriage of his daughter Catherine with Henry the third, king of Spain, the acquilition of a considerable treasure 4-, and the dignity of duke of Aquitain. He died in 1399, and his royal al- liances, and great riches, which far exceeded thofe of any other fubjecl, con- tributed to raife his fon Henry to the throne. Monmouth * Edward the Black Prince was the firft Englifli payment of fixteen thoufand marks, for his life, and duke, under the title of duke of Cornwall. in cafe his wife mould furvive him, ihe to have t" Its faid that he had forty-feven mules laden with twelve thoufand marks yearly." Dugdale's Baron- chefts full of gold, for his fecond payment; and age, vol. 2. p. uS. divers great men of Spaine as pledges for the yearly "3 CASTLE OF MONMOUTH. 307 Monmouth cattle was a favourite refidence of John of Gaunt and of his fon Henry of Bolingbroke, afterwards Henry the fourth ; but was more highly diftinguifhed as the birth-place of the hero of Agincourt, who from that cir- cumftance was flyled Henry of Monmouth. He was born in 1387, and feems to have paffed his infancy in Monmouth- fliire. During the fhort period which elapfed between his father's banifhment and acceflion to the throne, he was educated in the court of his coulin Richard the fecond, who treated him with the warmeft marks of affection. Accord- ing to a contemporary hifborian *, the monarch was captivated with his ipirit and underftanding, frequently pointed him cut, and prophetically obferved, " We have heard that our England will produce a prince called Henry, who will be renowned for dignity of manners, lplendourof action, and military fkill, and we conclude infallibly that this is the Henry thus predicted." Soon after the acceffion of his father, Henry ftudied at Oxford under his uncle cardinal Beaufort, chancellor of that univerfity, and as Stowe affirms, *' delighted in fongs, meeters, and mufical inftruments -f." From Speed we alio learn, that " he had in great veneration fuch as excelled in virtue or learn- ing, particularly Thomas Rodban of Merton college, a great aflronomer, whom he afterwards preferred to the bilhoprick of St. David's ; and John Carpenter of Oriel, a learned doctour in theology, whom he advanced to the fee of Worcefter + Henry is thus defcribed by Stowe, on the authority of Thomas de Elmham: " This prince exceeded the meane ftature of men, he was beautifull of vilage, his necke long, body flender and leane, and his bones fmall ; neverthelefle he was of marvellous great flrength, and paffing fwift in running, infomuch that he with two other of his lords, without hounds, bow, or other engine, would take a wilde bucke or doe in a large parke." At a very early period he was initiated in the ufe of arms, and before he attained the age of fixteen, gave, at the memorable battle of Shrewfbury, a noble fpecimen of heroic intrepidity, which augured his future renown. In the midft * Thomas de Elmham, Vita Uenrici Quinti, c, 2. + Annaks, p. 342. % Speed, chap. 15, R r 2 3 o8 CHAPTER 32. midftof the battle, the king being befet by a powerful corps of the enemy, was in imminent danger; young Henry flew to his afiiftance, rufhed into the adverfe ranks, and was wounded dangeroufly in the face with an arrow. Being exhorted by his followers to retire, he refufed to fet an example of flight ; " Con- vey me," he exclaimed, " I exhort you, into the midfl of the enemy, that I may fay to my companions in arms, follow me your leader into the combat ; I had rather expofe myfelf to the danger of fortune, than by flying bring ignominy on the military profefiion." He then precipitated himfeif into the ranks of the enemy; the rebels were difperfed, their chief fell in the field of battle, and the king obtained the victory by the means of his fon *. He afterwards fignalifed himfeif at the head of the army againft the followers of Owen Glendower, whom he defeated in various encounters, and finally quelled the rebellion of that lawleis chief. He no lefs diftinguifhed himfeif againfl: the Scots, made a fuccefsful inroad into their country, compelled them to offer terms of peace, took hoftages for their fidelity, and returned to London loaded with booty -f. Thefe repeated fucceffes, aided by courtcfy and condefcenfion, increafed his popularity, and excited the jealoufy of his fufpicious father, who excluded him from his counfels, and placed his principal confidence in his other fons. Being thus reduced to a ftate of idlenefs, the active fpirit of the young prince broke out into excefles unbecoming his birth and injurious to his reputation f ; but on his acceffion to the throne, his conduct proved that thefe exceffes were the frolics of youth, and not the effects of a vicious mind. Sudden * Thomas de Elmham. being accompanyed with fome of his young lords and t Polydore Virgil, p. 435. gentlemen, he would waite in difguifed array for his X The licentioufnefs of his conduct has been highly own receivers and diftrefle them of their money, and exaggerated; for it has even been faid, and hiftory fometimes at fuch enterprifes both he and his corn- has recorded the report, " that he fcrupled not to panions were fcrely beaten : and when his receivers affociate with, the moft diflolute perfons, and to ac- made to him their complaints, that they were robbed company them in attacking paifengers in the ftreets, in their coming unto him, he would give them dif- and defpoiling them of their goods." But if we con- charge of fo much money as they had loft, and be- fult contemporary writers, and the early hiftorians, fides that they mould not depart from him without we mall find the fail: differently ftated. Stowe feems great rewards for their trouble and vexation, efpecially to have approached nearer the truth, when he ob- they Ihould bee rewarded that heft had rtintedhimand ferves, " of Heniy the fifth it is faid, " He lived fome- his company, and of whem he had received the great- what infolently,infomuch that whileft his father lived, eft and moft ftrokes." Stowe's Chronicle, p. 342. CASTLE OF MONMOUTH. 509 Sudden and extraordinary converfions from vice to virtue are as uncommon aj they are ufually temporary; yet the inftantaneous tranfition of Henry the fifth from his former licentioufhefs to-a fober and dignified conduct, is too well au- thenticated to admit of the fmallcfl doubt. The account given by a contemporary writer* of the caufes which effected this change, is fo fimple and natural as to carry internal conviction of truth. During the iilnefs of Henry the fourth, the prince attended him with filial af- fection: as he flood near his bed with the priefl who was preparing the facra- ment, the king, whole eyes were dim with age, enquired what the priefl was doing; " fir," replied the prince, " he has jufl confccrated the body of our Lord Jefus Chrift ; I befeech you devoutly to adore him, under whom kings reign, and princes have dominion." The king inflantly lifted up his hands, and praying fervently, faid, " my fon approach and kils me ;" and when he had kiffed him, he with a trembling voice, which announced his approaching dilib- lution, faid, " the blefling, my fon, which Ifaac gave to. his fon Jacob, fall upon you, and may God grant you a good and profperous reign." The prince, obferving his father in the agonies of death, retired with grief and anguifh into a fmall chapel ; throwing himfelf on his knees, and ftriking his breafl, with tears of contrition he acknowledged his pafl mifconduct, declared his refolution of future amendment, and called upon God to pardon his offences. In this manner he paffed the whole day, and at night repaired fecretly to a priefl, remarkable for his fanctity, confeffed his fins, received abfolution, and, to ufe the figurative language of the biographer, returned to his palace, having thrown off the garment of vice, and put on the robe of righteoufnefs f. With a view * Thomas deElmham. and badges of the kings of England. " Kenry V. f Elmham, Vita Henrici Quinti, c. 7. p. 25. " Ex- by reafon of his diflblute life in the tyme of his fa- utus viciorum diploide, virtutum clamide redit de- ther's reigne, when after the death of the fayd king centur ornatus." his father, he vt.s anoynted and crowned monarch of Henry the fifth bore a beacon or a crefTet light this realme, betook unto himlelf for his badge or cog- burning for one of his badges ; the meaning of which nizance, a^cfefcet light burnynge, fhewinge thereby is thus explained in a manufcript account of the arms that although his vertuous and good parts had been formerly 3 io CHAPTER 32. view to ftrengthen his rcfolution, he neither eat or drank, at a fumptuous enter- tainment which he gave in Weftminfter hall, foon after his coronation, and con- tinued his fad three days and nights ; during which time he never retired to reft, but with fatting, vigils, and prayers, fervently implored the divine aiTiitance in the government of his kingdom *. After the ceremony of his coronation, he received the facrament with fo much devotion and humility, that feveral of the fpectators were affected even unto tears f. Nor was his relblution of amendment a tranfitory fit of enthufiafm ; his repentance produced a fuitable practice, and his conduct did not belie his profeffions. The firft public proof which he gave of this change in his fentiments and be- haviour, was the difmiffion of his dilTolute companions. " After his corona- tion," lays Stowe, " he called unto him all thofe young lords and gentlemen, that were the followers of his young acts, to every one of whom he gave rich and bounteous gifts, and then commanded that as many as would change their man- ners as hee intended to doe, mould abide with him in his court, and to all that would perfeverc in their former light converfation, hee gave expreffe com- mandment, upon paine of their heads, never after that day to come into his prefence I.- Henry the fifth is ufually celebrated only for his military prowefs, while the milder " The breath no fooner left his father's body, " But that his wildnefs, mortified in him, " Seem'd to die too : yea, at that very moment, " Consideration like an angel came, " And whipp'd the off ending Adam out of him ; " Leaving his body as a paradife, " To envelop, and contain celeftial fpirits. " Never was fuch a flidden fcholar m;ide; " Never came reformation in a flood, " With fuch a heady current, fcouring faults, " Nor ever Hydra-headed wilfulnefs, " So ics, Strand . TRELEC Hi In the garden of Mrs. llumfey, in the midft of the village, is a tumulus or bar- row, enclofed by a moat, about four hundred and fifty feet in circumference, with traces of extenfive entrenchments. By fome this mound is fuppofed to be an ancient barrow or burial place ; by others, the keep of the caftle, which be- longed to the earls of Clare*, and was conveyed in the fame manner as the caftle of Ufk, through the families of de Burgh, Mortimer, and York, to the crown. Subfequent to them, I find a branch of the Seymours -f eftablifhed at Trelech, and afterwards the llumfey s, an ancient family in Monmouthfhire, who were long fettled in this place, which is now occupied by the widow of the laft proprietor. Near the village is alfo a mineral well, ftrongly impregnated with iron, of which the author of the Secret Memoirs makes honourable mention : " Treleg wells, which of late years have been much frequented, and have been found very me- dicinal, and of the nature of Tunbridge waters, flowing from an iron ore mineral, of which, and cinders left by the bloom works, plenty is found in thefe parts j." The cinders to which this author alludes, are thofe remains of bloomeries ufually diftinguifhed by the name of Roman cinders, and are thickly fpread over the adjoining fields. Thefe fcoria are confidered by fome perfons as evident figns of a Roman fettlement ; and I am induced to imagine, that the Romans had an eftablifhment at Trelech, through which a communication was formed with the Akeman Street, at or near Chepftow, and thence with the Julia Strata at Caerwent ; perhaps the tumulus was the fite of an exploratory camp. In the middle of the village, not far from the church, is an ancient ftone pedef- tal, fupportinga fun dial, which is much noticed as a fpecimen of high antiquity On three fides are carved reprefentations of the tumulus, the chalybeate well, and the three ftones. Above the tumulus is infcribed magna mole, and beneath, o quot hic sepulti ; the figure of the well is accompanied with MAXIMA FONTE, and DOM MAGD PROBIT OSTENDIT. The height of the three ftones above the ground is marked as being 14, 10, and 8 feet ; major saxis -* Dugdale., art. Oare. See alfo p. rJ. f MS. in the poneffion of the Rev. Mr Jones of Piftill. X P- 34- Tt2 3 2 4 CHAPTER 33- saxis is infcribed over them, and under, hic fuit victor haraldus. The fhape of the pedeftal and the form of the letters prove it to be more modern than is generally fuppofed, and I fufpeft that the infcription, in honour of Harold's victory over the Britons, was the work of fome enthufiaftic Saxon in the fifteenth or fixteenth century. 1. Tuder, del. Lie, fc. ELEVATIONS OF THE EAST, SOUTH, AND NORTH SIDliS OF THE PEDESTAL. The church is a handfome gothic building, with an elegant fpire ; and is more ornamented than raoft of the churches in that ftyle of architecture in Mon- mouthfhire; the infide is not inelegant, and the lofty and tapering arches, which feparate the nave from the aifles, have a pleafing effect. Trelech is fituated on the high road from Chepftow to Monmouth, which is re- markable for a variety of wild and beautiful fcenery. It leaves Piercefield lodge and grounds on the right, afcends to the top of an eminence, commanding a fuperb profpect, then defcends through an extenfive tract of foreft, called Chep- ftow Park, winds up to the Devaudon Green, and continues along the fum- mit of the Devaudon, leaving the road to Raglan on the left, through a fucceflion of heathy commons and rich inclofures. As I paired along the brow of this eminence, to the eaft appeared an undulating furface of dreary heaths and extenfive forefts, among which the Wy winds, unfeen, in a profound abyfs ; to the weft I admired the fertile vallies of Monmouthfhire, ftretching between the Devaudon and the majeftic barrier of mountains which feparate the county from Glamorganshire and Brecknockfhire. 2- Towards T R E L E C H. 325 Towards the extremity of the Devaudon, the road trends from its northerly dire&ion eaft and north-eaft toTrelech, crofles the common, and leaves at a little diftance on the left the confpicuous eminence of Craig y Dorth, where Owen Glendower, in one of his predatory incurfions, defeated the royal troops, and pur- fued them to the gates of Monmouth. At the extremity of the common I difmounted, and walked down the declivity leading to Monmouth ; midway I paffed on my left Leidet houfe, now occupied by the Rev. William Powell, which is remarkable for the beauty of its pofition, on the brow of an eminence, overlooking the groves of Wonaftow. At this point the mountains in the neighbourhood of Abergavenny affume a new pofition ; the gentle fwell of the little Skyrrid is peculiarly elegant, and the craggy ridge of the great Skyrrid appears furmounted by the cone of the Sugar Loaf - y below Monmouth ftretches on the banks of the Wy, beautifully embowered in trees, and backed by wooded eminences, above which rifes the bleak and rugged fum- mit of the little Doward. TROT HOUSE. cd Mardi 1. 18°° CadeU gc/)ayt&r. Strand CHATTER 34. White Cape. — Scenfreth. — Neivcajlle. — Remarkable Oak. — The Graig. — Cajtle of Grofmont. — John of Kent. AS White Caftle, Scenfreth, and Grofmont, were ufually pofieffed by the fame perfon, as they were ingulphed in the immenfe poffemons of the houfe of Lancafler afterwards annexed to the crown, and as they are now included in one diftrict., called the hundred of the three caftles, parts of the duchy of Lancafler, I fhall comprife their hiflory and defcription in the fame chapter. All the northern part of Monmouthfhire, ftretching from the Wy to Aber- gavenny, was comprifed under the name of Overwent, and firft over-run by Brien Fitz Count, earl of Hereford, who came into England with the Con- queror; he obtained by marriage the caftle of Abergavenny, and moft probably built or ftrengthened Grofmont, Scenfreth, and White caftles. They afterwards belonged to the Cantelupes and the Braofes, who were lords of Abergavenny ; it is particularly fpecified, that " in the 7 of John, William de Braofe gave eight hundred marks, three horfes for the great faddle, five chacuros, twenty- four .... Senfas, and ten greyhounds, to have livery of the caftles of Grof- mont, Skenefrith, and Lanteilo,' which were of his inheritance, and which he held of the king, by the fervice of two knights' fees *." Henry the third afterwards feifed thefe caftles, and gave them to his favour- ite Hubert de Burgh, whofe power almoft equalled that of the fovereign him- felf, and whofe fufferings exceed thofe of the moft perfecuted knight in the annals of romance. Having incurred the difpleafure of the king, he was imprifoned * Dugdale, vol. 1. P.4-J5. ii „„r t ' t — g t T j fat.Ju/j/ */38M.by CcuUCl &Btwiet Strand W H I T E C A S T L E. 327 imprifoned and almoft famiihed to death, and did not recover his liberty until he had refigned the three caftles to the crown *. In 1267, Henry the third granted, with many other poffeflions, the three caftles to his fon Edmund Crouchback, earl of Lancafter, and the grant was con- firmed by Edward the firft in the thirteenth year of his reign -f . They afterwards came to John of Gaunt, in the fame manner as the caftle of Mon- mouth, formed part of the duchy of Lancafter, and with Caldecot caftle are the only pofieflions in Monmouthfhire which ftill belong to the duchy. Thefe three caftles were held by the family of Powell, fettled at Landeilo, under a leafe from the duchy, afterwards by John Lewis, efq. who married the heirefs of the Powells, and by his fon the prefent proprietor of Landeilo ; on the expiration of the leafe they were demifed to the duke of Beaufort |. The ruins of White Caftle are fituated a mile and a half to the north of Lan- deilo Creffeney, eight miles to the eaft of Monmouth, and feven to the weft of Abergavenny. They occupy the ridge of an eminence, furrounded with a deep moat, 286 yards in circumference ; the walls are of considerable thicknefs, and faced with hewn ftone of a brown colour. The figure is irregular, of an oblong fhape, refembling an oval; the works are partly ftraight and partly curvilinear, and are ftrengthened with fix round towers, which ftand without the walls, and were fo contrived as to refift a fiege, even after the lofs of the inner court. The principal entrance is towards the north ; it confifts of a gateway, which was defended by a portcullis and drawbridge, and flanked by two high and maffive towers ; there is another entrance to the fouth-weft, on the oppofite fide. Several veftiges of apartments, which projected into the area, ftill exift, but not fufficient to difcriminate their form. The walls in the whole extent of the outward circumference have no windows, (one only excepted, which is modern) but chinks or oeillets, for the purpofe of fnooting arrows at the befiegers. The length of the area is 145 feet, and the greateft breadth 106; it is now a place * Dugdale. Leland, Coll. vol.2, p-39i- t See chapter 32. % Archives of the duchy. 32 8 CHAPTER 34. a place of pafture for horfes and cows, which take fhelter in the ruined towers; and affords an occafional cover for hares, one of which I put up as I was pafling the court. On the outfide of the fofs, are the remains of a barbican or anti-mural, oppo- fite to the principal entrance of the caftle which it defended, and with which it was connected by a drawbridge. Thefe outworks were very fhrong ; parts of thick walls remain, flanked by a fquare and feveral round towers. The area of the barbican occupies a large fpace of ground, and is now a corn field. Towards the fouth, are likewife the remains of outworks, but fo overgrown with brambles and thickets that it is difficult to trace their dimenfions. The maflive remains of the caftle, the height of the towers *, the extent of the outworks, the depth of the foffes, indicate a place of confiderable ftrength and importance, which probably enfured, for feveral ages, the dominion of this part of the country. From the ftyle of the architecture, it appears to have been con- ftru&ed either before the conqueft, or at the lateft in the early times of the Norman sera. The records of hiftory give fanction to this opinion. It is called in ancient documents Whyt Caftle, Caftell Blaunch, or Blanch, and Album Caftrum ; and is faid to derive its name from fir Gwyn ap Gwaith- voed -J-, its pofleftor at the time of the Norman invafion. Hence it was called Caftell Gwyn, and as Gwyn in the Welfh tongue fignifies White, obtained the name of White Caftle. It is alfo mentioned under the name of Caftell Gwyn, as belonging to William de Braofe, lord of Abergavenny, who flourifhed in the reign of Henry the fecond ; on his banifhment it was feifed by the Welfh, re- covered by his fon Reginald, confirmed to his grandfon William de Braofe, afterwards appropriated by Henry the third, and united to the duchy of Lan- cafter. In * The height of the mod perfett tower is not lefs his fixth fon Bach, was lord of Scenfreth, and his than 60 feet j the depth of the moat is from 14 to feventh was this fir Gwyn ap Gwaithvoed ; his arms 18 feet, and the breadth from 4.0 to 70. were, per pale gules and azure, a lion rampant, or, fup- t Gwaithvoed, prince of Cardigan in right of his porting a tree proper. From a MS. in the poilemon mother, died in 1057. He left eight fons, of whom of the Rev. Mr. Jones of Piftill. the eldeft Cadivor vaur was anceftor of the Morgans, J'tMt-r/ied IMardt i idoo. by CadrU kDanes, Strand . SCENFRETH CASTLE. 329 In the time of Henry the eighth it was not dilapidated j Leland fays, " this caftle ftandeth on a hill, and is drye moted ; it is made almoft of great Hate ftone, and is the greateft of the three." In the days of Elifabeth, White Caftle was a place of great renown and magnificence, and is defcribed by Church- yard as * " A ftatelic feate, a loftie princely place." But it probably went rapidly to decay, for in the tenth of James the firft, it is prefented by the jury as " ruinous and in decay time out of mind ■f." The caftle of Scenfreth is fituated about five miles to the eaft of White Caftle, and feven to the north of Monmouth ; a fortrefs feldom viiited by travel- lers, as the accefs to it is difficult both for carriages and horfes. The carriage ' road goes through Rockfield, where it quits the turnpike leading by Landeilo CrelTeney to Abergavenny, continues towards Grofmont as far as the Boot public houfe, about feven miles from Monmouth, and then enters a road fcarcely palfable, although it is part of the turnpike to Rofs. The horfeway leaves the carriage road about four miles from Monmouth, and after traverfing St. Maughan's common, proceeds through a narrow fteep and ftony lane, over- grown with thickets, and pitched with large ftones placed edgeways in the boggy foil ; thefe ftones being broken or difplaced, a fucceflion of uneven fteps is formed, and horfes not accuftomed to fuch rugged and miry ways, are conti- nually apt to (tumble and flounder. By the fide of this road a pleafant walk runs through the fields, on the flope overlooking the vale of the Monnow. In the vicinity of thefe lanes, fuch footways are common in every part of Monmouthfhire, which thofe who are fond of walking will traverfe with delight. From Perthir to Scenfreth, the frontiers of Monmouthfhire are feparated from the * ,c Three catties fayre, are in a goodly ground, " A ftately feate, a loftie princely place, " Grofmont is one, on hill it builded was ; " Whofe beautie gives the ample foyle fome " Skenfreth the next, in valley it is found, grace." " The foyle about, for pleafure there doth pane ; Worthines of Wales, p. 20. " Whit Caftle is the third of worthie fame, f Inquifitio Com. Mon. de albo Caftro, 2da. pars. " The country there doth bear Whyt Cattle's Archives of the duchy of Lancaltcr. name U u 330 CHAPTER 34. the county of Hereford by the Monnow, which flows in a lively and tranfparent ftream, through a narrow vale of rich pafture fprinkled with neat hamlets, at the foot of fuccefiive eminences thickly mantled with wood. Scenfreth, which is only remarkable for its caftle, is a mifcrable village, contain- ing a church, a few cottages, and two public houfes. The caftle is placed in a reclufe fpot, furrounded by hills, on the margin of the limpid and murmuring Monnow ; though inconfiderable in fize, having no traces of outworks, and calculated only to contain a fmall garrifon for the command of the river, or the defence of an important defile, it is undoubtedly of high antiquity, which fuf- ficicntly appears from the fimplicity of its form. The walls inclofed an area in the fliape of a trapezium, now a kitchen garden ; its length is 160 feet, its greateft breadth 1 70, and 84 in the narroweft part. The walls are ftrong, and flanked with five circular towers, one at each angle, and one in the middle of the fide next the village, which had no communication with the area but from the battlements. Towards the center of the area is a Juliet *, or high round tower, which was undoubtedly the keep or citadel ; it is fituated on a fmall rife, or artificial mound, but without any appearance of a moat or draw-bridge. The entrance, which was feveral feet from the ground, is much broken ; the arches of the windows that remain are plainly rounded. The principal entrance of the caftle was probably on the northern fide, on a raifed mound of earth ftill vifible, but the walls are fallen down, and no traces of the porch can be perceived. There was probably a draw-bridge, and two round towers. The walls were originally provided with no other aper- tures than fmall chinks. On the fide of the village, the view of the ruins is obftructed by houfes, fheds, and ricks ; but on the bridge of the Monnow they appear to fome advantage, from the elevation of the Juliet, which towers above the dilapidated walls ; the bridge itielf is a pleafing object ; it is of ftone, and confifts of two gothic arches. Bach, fixth fon of Cadivorap Gwaithvoed, or Cadivor Vaur, is mentioned by Enderbie * See the engraving on the plan. >GE AND CASTLE OF SCEN F R IT H. Published March z.xdoo by (a/ieU '■ $cDayies.Strand< ". SCENFRETH CASTLE. 3 3 t Endcrbie as lord of Scenfreth, which was wrefted from him by one of the Nor- man chieftains. Although I have not been able to difcovcr any other account of this place before the reign of king John, yet I have little hefitation in deciding, from the ftyle of the architecture, that it is the oldeft caftle in Monmouthlhire, and was anterior to the conqueft; but as it was inferior in ftrength and conle- quence to Monmouth, Grofmont, and White caftlcs, its' name does not fo often occur, and its hiftory is confounded with that of thofe fortrefibs. Scenfreth isfeldom mentioned fingly, but follows the fortune of the two other Caftlcs, and is always conveyed with them to the different proprietors, who obtained them either by marriage or grant from the crown: it waslikcwife feifed by Henry the third, granted to his fon Edmund earl of Lancafter, pafied to John of Gaunt, and in the reign of Henry the fifth, with them, became parcel of the duchy of Lancafter, to which it now belongs. In the days of Henry .the eighth, Leland thus defcribes it: " The caftle of Scenfrith ftandeth five miles above Monmouth towne, on Mone river, on the very ripe of it, fecundum decurfum fluvii ; and in times pad, by all likelyhood, the river did goe about the cattle dike. Much of the utjterwarde of this caftle vet ftandeth : the fite of it fomewhat lowe. There is a Hone hridee over Mone a little above the caftle. Hubert de Burgh carl of Kent was lord of Skenfrith, and the noble Edmund earl of Kent had it*." In the reign of James the firft it was in a ftate of dilapidation, and prefented by the jury as " ruinous and decayed time out of the memory of man." In the north aifle of the church, which is a gothic building extremely piclu • refque, is a curious monument of fir John Morgan and Anne his wife. The figures are carved on a flat ftone, round the edge of which is inferibed, in gothic characters, " In hoc tumulo condita lunt corpora Johannis Morgan, armigeri, qui obiit 2 die Septembris, anno 1557 : et Anna; uxoris ejus, qua; obiit 4 die Januar. 1564." On each fide of this tomb are bafib relievo figures, and arms on the front and back. A crofs road leads from Scenfreth to Grofmont, not far from the banks of the Monnow, and the frontiers of Herefordfhke. In my firft tour I traverfed this route * Lehnd, Itin. vol. 4. p. 176. U U 2 332 C IT APTER 34. route on horfcback ; the road is rugged, but extremely cool and pleafant in fum- mer, for it paffes through narrow lanes overhung with wood, and croffes nume- rous lively brooks, which fall into the Monnow. The road from Monmouth to Grofmont goes through Rockfield, leaves the road to Scenfreth on the right, and paffes through Newcaftle, where I flopped to examine the remains of a caflle, from which the place derived its appellation. Thefc remains are inconfiderable, confiding only of a tumulus or barrow, en- vironed by a moat 300 feet in circumference, with veftiges of an exterior en- trenchment. Of the origin or demolition of this cafkle, I can difcover no traces in hiftory. The mount or barrow is fuppofed by the common people to be the haunt of fpirits, and many ftories of their apparition are circulated in the place. But an aged oak, which ftands near the public houfe on the left of the road, is ftill more the tale of the village, and has given rife to as many legends in the vicinity, as Hearne's oak in Windfor foreft, which Shakfpeare introduces as the fcene of a fairy dance in the Merry Wives of Windfor ; I figured to myfelf queen Mab finging to her nightly companions : " And twenty glow-worms fhall our lanterns be, " To guide our meafure round about the tree." According to the opinion of the vulgar, this tree is protected by invifible fpirits, and no one has ever ventured to lop or injure it without feeling the effects of their vengeance. In confirmation of thefe affertions, one of the natives related to me feveral inftances of profane perfons who fuffered for their incredulity; one fell from the tree as he was lopping a branch, and broke his arm j another frac- tured his leg, and a third perifhed ihortly after his facrilegious enterprife by an untimely death. This tree is not fo much remarkable for its girth, although it meafures twenty-feven feet, as for its pendent boughs and twifted branches, which have a fantaftic appearance ; it is now hollow, and haftening to decay, and is much diminifhed from its original fize ; one of the largefh branches, broken off by a violent ftorm of wind, yielded fifteen car-loads of fire-wood. An engraving of this fingular tree, from a fketch taken by Mr. Tudor in 1780, will convey fome idea of its former fize and appearance. * Net : THE G R A I G. 333 Not only the barrow has its fpints, and the oak its hamadryad, but the water in the vicinity is equally facred ; at the diftance of half a mile from the village, and in the mid ft of a pleafant wood, a fpring gufhes from the fide of a hill, and after fupplying a well, falls into a lively brook. This well is alfo fuppofed to posTefs a healing quality, which is communi- cated by an attendant fpirit. The guide who conducted me to the fpot, affured me, that it was an infallible cure for many diforders, particularly the rheumatifm ; he added, that he was much fubject to that complaint in the head, of which he had been repeatedly relieved by bathing in the well, or by expofing the part affected for a considerable time to the current of the fpring. In fummer this well is much frequented by invalids, and has performed occasional cures. The water feemed to contain no mineral particles ; it is extremely cold, from which, as well as from the action of the stream, its efficacy is probably derived. Quitting Newcastle, I purfued my journey, left the Boot public houfe and the road to Scenfreth on the right, pasTed the turnpike called Traveller's Seat, and at a fmith's fiiop, about nine miles from Monmouth, quitted my chaile, and rode up the fide of the Graig along the devious track which crosTes the mountain to Grofmont. The Graig, which is the only confpicuous hill in the north-eaftern part of Monmouthihire, rifes abruptly from the lowlands, is of an undulating fhape, and its fmooth and bare outline appears uninteresting to thofe who have been ac- customed to the broken and contrasted forms of the mountains in the neighbour- hood cf Abergavenny. I reached to the summit near a fmall mound, called the Tump, where the three parimes of Landeilo CresTeney, Scenfreth, and Grofmont unite. The highest part of this mountain is a iheep walk, and not unfrequently the fcene of hunting parties, although the fteepnefs of the declivities would astound many a Saxon fportfman. The day was uncommonly calm and ferene, the fun fhone in full fplendour, and every object was easily dilcriminated. The view from the summit is perhaps not inferior to any in Monmouthihire ; from its infulated fituation, height above the 334 CHAPTER 34. the furrounding eminences, due diftance from the mountainous region on the frontiers of Wales, and pofition at the north-eaftern extremity cf Monmouth- fhire, it commands a boundlefs profpedr. in every direction. Quitting its lum- mit, I gently rode down the grafly fides of the mountain, through commons and thickets ; palled the Graig houfe, fituated on the declivity, in a wild and fequeftercd fpot, which was inhabited by Dr. Davics, the father of the vicar of St. Mary's, and at length reached Grofmont. Grofmont, Groffrnount, Grifemond, or Griiemount Caftle, is fituated to the fouth-eaft of the village on an eminence near the Monnowj it is furrounded with a dry moat, and was ftrcngthened with outworks to the fouth-eaft, of which fome of the remains are ftiil vifible, that formed the barbican ; veftiges of entrenchments alfo appear to the fouth. The prcfent ruins, Handing on the ridge of the moat, enclofe an area of not more than 1 10 feet in length and 70 in breadth. The principal entrance to the fouth is formed by a pointed arch ; the doorways leading into the towers, and all the windows, whofe forms can be traced, are of the fame ftyle ; and the whole appearance of the remains, fully proves that it was conftructed at an sera much poftcrior to Scenfreth and White Caftle. On the right of the entrance I noticed an oblong fpacious apartment, with three windows on each fide and two at each end, which meafures 80 feet by 27, and was probably the great baronial hall. The caftle was once much larger than at prefent ; veftiges of dilapidated apart- ments may be traced in the area ; feveral remains of walls and foundations appear to the north, particularly the ruins of an apartment with a gothic chimney, which is high, tapering, and furmounted with a coronet. The hiftory of Grofmont Caftle is comprifed under that of Scenfreth and White Caftle ; it belonged to the families of Braofe and Cantilupe, was conveyed by Henry the third to Hubert de Burgh, again feifed by the king, and afterwards annexed to the duchy of Lancafter. During the reign of Henry the third it was diftinguilhed by .two events. Being invefted by Lewellin prince of Wales, " the king came;' fays Lambarde, " with a great army to raile the liege, whereof as lone " as GROSMONT CASTLE. 335 " as the Welfhmen had underftandinge, they faved their lives by their " ^ e g& es *•" ^ n a fubfequent expedition however the royal troops feem to have had lefs underftanding than the Welfh. The king marching againft Richard Marfhal, earl of Pembroke, who had thrown himfelf on the protection of Le- wellin, his provifions were cut off, and being unable to profecute his intended enterprife, he retreated to Grofmont, and encamped his army in the vicinity of the caftle. During the night a large party of the enemy's horfe furprifed the king's troops alleep in the trenches, and carried away five hundred horfes, with many waggons, baggage, provifions, and much treafure -f. Grofmont Caftle feems to have been the favourite refidence of the carls of Lancafter, particularly of Henry, grandfon of Edmund Crouchback, who was furnamed Grifmont, from the place of his birth. He probably much enlarged and beautified the ftru&ure, as the ftile of the architecture accords with the iera in which he flourillied. Leland thus defcribes it, " The caftle of GrofTemount ftandeth a three miles above Skenfrith, on the right hand of the Mone, fecundum decurfum fluvii, half a mile from the ripe. It ftandeth ftrongly on a rocke of hill drye ditched, and a village of the fame name by it. Moft part of the caftle walls yet ftand." In the reign of James I. it was prefented by the jury as in a ftate of dilapi- dation I'. The lawn on the north and eaft fide of the ruins is ftill called the Caftle Green ; the eaftern fide impends over the precipitous banks of the Monnow, which are tufted with a rich grove of wide fpreading oaks ; the river below is fingularly beautiful ; it gleams through the foliage, and fuddenly turning, bends into the form of a horfe-fhoe, and almoft encircles a field of luxuriant pafture. The en- virons are delightful ; the vale fwells into gentle eminences clothed with trees ; on one fide the view is bounded by the Graig, and the other by the Garway, enriched with the woods and plantations of Kcntchurch park. The church of Grofmont, of which an engraving is annexed, is a large and handfome * Topographical Dictionary, p. 133, J Leland, Itin. vol.4. P- J 7*>- Archives of the ■f Dugdale, vol. 1. p. 604. duchy of Lancafter. 336 CHAPTER 34. handlome gothic ftru&ure, with an octagon tower, on which rifes a hexagon fpire ; the tower and body are white-warned, and the fpire is of brown ftone unco- loured. The church is built in the form of a cathedral, like a Roman crofs, and confifts of a nave, two aifies, a tranfept, and a chancel. Grofmont is now a fmall and neat village ; but was once a place of considerable importance, and is ftill governed by a mayor and burgeffes. The natives boaft of its former extent, point out fpots at fome diftance which formed Streets of the town, and allude to a tradition, that the market was once held on the fide of the Graig. But a more decifive proof of its former importance is derived from the numerous caufeways, which diverge from it in feveral directions, and which in any other county I fhould have conceived to be remains of Roman roads. Two of thefe caufeways may be traced to the diftance of a mile, one leading towards the Graig and the Abergavenny road, and the other, towards the extremity of the village, in the direction of Scenfreth and Monmouth, which is fuppofed by the natives to have been a flreet of the town. Thefe roads are railed to the height of feveral feet, and though much dilapidated, are ftill in many places from nine to twelve feet broad ; the ftones are laid one on the other ; feveral which I meafured were not lefs than nine feet in length, and of proportionate breadth and thick- nefs. Within the memory of the inhabitants, roads of a fimilar construction led in other directions, but have been demolifhed for the lake of the materials. As Newcaftle teems with tales of fprites and elves, fo Grofmont rings with the atchievements of John of Kent, whofe exploits almoft eclipfe the adventures of baron Munkhaufen. Old and young women, men and boys, unite in relating with extreme volubility, and without the fmalleft difagreement, a feries of ex- traordinary tales concerning this wonderful perfonage. Like Dr. Fauftus, he is faid to have made a compad with the devil ; but more fuccefsful than the doctor, he evaded the conditions of his covenant, and outwitted the prince of darknefs, both in his life and at his death. Among the early fpecimens of his magical Skill, while a farmer's boy in the vi- cinity, he confined a number of crows, which he was ordered to keep from the corn, GROSMOXT CASTLE. Published Marc/i i.T.8t>fl.by CadeH ScDayies. So-mid I JOHN OF KENT. 337 corn, in an old barn without a roof, that he might vifit Grofmont fair. " And fure enough," faid the old woman, who told me the anecdote, " they were there ; for they made a terrible clatter, and would not fly away till Jack himfelf came and releafed them." Kentchurch Houfe, the neighbouring feat of the Scudamore family, by whom h< /as hired as a fervant, became afterwards the fcene of his marvellous exploits, which it would be tedious to recount. But the feat of all others, which moft en- dears his memory to the inhabitants of Grofmont, was the conftruction of the bridge over the Monnow, leading to Kentchurch ; it is ftill called John of Kent's bridge, and is faid to have been built in one night by one of his familiar fpirits. " But it could not be the devil, fir," added the relater of the tale, " for he would never have done fo good an action." An old tombftone in the church yard, clofe to the eaft wall of the chancel, is faid to cover his body, and the legend reports, that he was interred under the wall to evade the condition of his compact; which ftipulated, that if buried either within the church, or out of the church, he mould become the property of Satan. At the time of both my vifits to Grofmont, this tomb was covered with a quantity of rubbifb, which prevented me from infpedting it ; but I was informed by the clerk, and by many other perfons, that it contained no in- fcription. A cellar at Kentchurch houfe is ftill (hewn a9 the ftable where he kept horfeo, on which he traverfed the air with the fpeed of Lapland witches ; and his por- trait on wood, painted in oil, of which an engraving is annexed, is likewife there preferved. The family of Kentchurch, to whom I applied for the true character and actions of this reputed forcerer, could afford no fpecific or pofitive informa- tion. According to tradition, he was a monk, educated at one of the univerfi- ties, and remarkable for his learning ; in an age of ignorance, his acquirements excited the altonifhment of his contemporaries, and like friar Bacon he was :ncd by the vulgar a necromancer. A Latin tranflation of the Bible, on X x vellum. 3,8 CHAPTER 34. vellum, which was either made or copied by him, was preferved in the family, but has been long miflaid or deftroyed. Various opinions have been entertained concerning this myfterious perfonage. According to fome he was the John of Kent, Gwent, or Went, a Francifcan, thus mentioned by Leland : " He was bred in Waies, and fo ardently followed the moft celebrated fchools of the Francifcans at Oxford, and made fuch improve- ments in profound learning, that he was the wonder of all his religious brethren." According to the annuities of the Englifh Francifcans, he was born at Chepftow, became pro&flbf and doctor of divinity, and on account of his extraordinary virtue was chofen minifter provincial of the order in England. He wrote many learned and pious works, particularly Commentaries on the Matter of the Sen- tences, Sermons to the People, and Difputed Queftions. He died in 1348 ; and the catalogue of the provincial minifters fays of him, " Brother John Went, doctor of Oxford, who wrought miracles in his life time, lies at Hereford." Baker, in his Chronicle, mentions another John of Kent among the men of learning in the reign of Henry the third*. According to others he was a bard of Owen Glendower, and became domefti- cated in the family on the defeat of his chieftain, whofe daughter married a Scudamore. A tradition however ftill prevails, that an old wizard, difguifed In a fhepherd's hibit, once roamed about in the neighbourhood of Grofmont, frequented Kent- thurch Houfe, and was buried privately under the ftone in the church yard, below the eaft window of the chancel, which is called John of Kent's tomb- ftone. A refpectable perfon, long refident in the village of Kentchurch, from whom I derived this information, conjectures that this wizard was Owen Glendower himfelf, who, when profcribed, wandered about in a fhepherd's habit r and took refuge with one of his daughters. It is likewife remarkable, that the place of Owen Glendower's death, or fepulture, has never been pofitively ascer- tained i fome fuppofe, though without fufficient authority, that he was interred at * Inland, Scrip. Brit. p. 376. Antiq. of the E. Fraucifc. p. 159. Baker's Chronicle, p. 132. JOHN OF K E N T. 339 at Mornington in Herefordfture, the feat of one of his fons in law, others, with frill lefs probability, that he was buried in the cathedral of Bangor *. * A curious paflage from the Memoirs of Owe;: Glendower is here fubmitted to the reader, p. 73. " A. D. 141 5, death put a period to Owen's life and mifery upon the eve of St. Matthew. Some fay he died at his daughter Scudamore's, others at his daughter Mornington's houfe. They had both harboured him in his forlorn condition. They fay that he was fain to go up and down difguifed in a fhepherd's habit, to his daughters' and other friends' houfes. Where Owen was buried cannot now be afcertained. But my countrymen, whether from tradition or conjecture, I know not, fuppcfe a grave under the great window in the fouth ifle wall of Bangor cathedral, to be his place of interment. This mural monument is Angular and much noticed ; it lies within the wall, having a hollow arch over it, and a fliort buttrefs to fupport it. The ilone, which is of the grit kind, has no infeription on it, or any adornment befides a large ill formed crofs." " Humphrey, a lute bifnop of Bangor, and a great antiquary, did not credit this report, but firmly believed, from a paffage in Giraldus' Itinerary, that it was the maufoleum of Owen Gwynedd, prince of North Wales. A. D. 11 38." RKMAKKABIJK OAK AT KEWCAKTL1K. X x a [ 340 j CHAPTER 3:. Excurjion down the Wy. — Char after ijlic Features of the River. — Navigation from Rofs to Monmouth. — Goodrich Caftle. — Court-field. — Weljh Bichior Church. — Sepulchral Effigies of the fuppofed Count efs of Salijbury. — Proprietors of IVelJli Bicknor. — Family of Vaughan. — Cohhvell Rocks. — New Weir. — Monmouth. t I ^ O avoid digreflions, I have hitherto folely confined my obfervations to Monmouthfhire ; yet as the voyage down the Wy, from llofs to Chepftow,. is an interefcing object, I mall in this fingle inftance deviate from my original plan, and give a general account of the whole navigation ; although that part of the river which flows from Rofs to Monmouth is principally included in the counties of Glocefter and Hereford. In company with Mr. Hoare, I went in a poft chaife to Rofs ; the road runs near the right bank of the Wy, leaves Dixon church to the eaft, and after paffing the frontiers, quits the river, and rejoins it beyond Goodrich, at a little diflance from Rofs, where we arrived in the evening, and on the following morning commenced our excurfion down the Wy. The characleriftics of the Wy are its ferpentine courfe, from which it is fup- pofed to derive its name * ; the uniform breadth of the channel ; and the fecnery of its banks. The * I am favoured by Mr. Owen with the following ing, a circulating or going about, and thence it fig- etymology : The Wy is called Gwy by the WeKh, nines water. This term is much afad in the compo- when the name ftands alone, but in compofition the fition of words, particularly the nsmps nf rivers aiul mutable G is dropped', and it then becomes toy. The of water-fowl, import of Gwy abftracledly is, a flowing or Itream- Example : Conivy, (con-gwy) the chief ftream. Mynzvy, or the Monnow- Taivy, the fpreading ftream. Onnuy, the a(h -water- Elivy, the fonorous ftream. Givyach, a fnipe. Llugwy, the dufky ftream* GwjM, a goofe.. NAVIGATION OF THE W Y. 341 The Terpentine courfe is fo confiderable, that the diftance from Rofs to Chepftow, which in a direct line is not more than fixteen miles and four fur- longs, is thirty-feven miles and feven furlongs by water *. The effects of thefe numerous windings are various and linking; the fame objects prefent themfelves, are loll and recovered with different accompaniments, and in different points of view : thus the ruins of a callle, hamlets embofomed in trees, the fpire of a church burlling from the wood, forges impending over the water, and broken maffes of rock fringed with herbage, fometimes are feen on one fide, fpmetimes on the other, and form the fore ground or back ground of a landfcape. Thus alfo the river itfelf here llretches in a continuous line, there waves in a curve, between gentle Hopes and fertile meadows, or is fuddenly concealed in a deep abyfs, under the gloom of impending woods. Another characteristic of the Wy, is the almoft uniform breadth of the chan- nel, which feems to have been fcooped by the hand of nature, in the midft of furrounding hills. Hence in the whole courfe of this navigation, except in the vicinity of Rofs and till it receives the tide, the llream, unlike other mountain torrents, is not fcattered over a wide and llony bed, but rolls in one compact and accumulated body. This uniformity of breadth is however broken by the per- petual finuofity of the river, and enlivened by the divcrfified fcenery of the banks, which forms the third characteriflic of the Wy. The banks for the moll part rife abruptly from the edge of the water, and are clothed with forefls, or broken into cliffs. In fome places they approach fo near, that the river occupies the whole intermediate fpace, and nothing is * By Water. By Land. ME. F. P. M. F. P. From Rofs to Goodrich caftle - + + o From Rofs by the turnpike to Monmouth jo o o To Cold well - - - - 700 In a ftraight line, or as the crow flies - 9 o 10 To New Weir - - - - 420 From Rpfs to Chepftow by the turnpike 21 o o To Monmouth - - - • 510 By Coleford - - - - - 3100 From Rofs to Monmouth - - 7 q In a Itraight line - - - - 16 4 o To Cl"* 6 ™ " 10 + o The bafe or fuppofed tunnel of the hi!!, between W 6 4 60 Coldwell and the New Weir, is 600 yards, the circuit From Rofs to Chepftow - - 37 7 60 of the river 4. miles a furlongs. Thefe meafures were taken by Mr. Taylor, author of the Surveys of the Counties of Hereford and Glocefter, and are given in Heath's Excuriion down the Wy, p. -. 34 2 C Ii A P T E R 35. is feen but wood, rocks and water; in others, they alternately recede, and the eye catches an occallonal glimpfe of hamlets, ruins, and detached buildings, partly lea ted on the margin of the dream, and partly fcattered on the rihng grounds. The general character of the fcenery, however, is wildnefs and foli- tude ; and if we except the populous diftrict of Monmouth, no river perhaps flows for fo long a courle through a well cultivated country, the banks of which exhibit fo few habitations. We embarked at feven in the morning in a convenient veflel, capable of con- taining eight perfons befides the boatmen, and provided with an awning, which as the weather was unclouded and fultry, we found a good defence againft the ravs of an Auguft fun. We pafled under the ftone bridge, leaving on our right the ruins of Wilton Caftle, and as the water was low, faw but few objects worthy of attention, except the fpire of Rofs church towering above the trees, and Penyard hill covered with wood *. At a fmall farm called Weir End, the river turns abruptly, and flows under the precipitous fides of Pencraig hill mantled with trees to the margin of the river. From this place commences that interefting combination of fcenery, which diftinguifhes the banks of the Wy. We foon afterwards defcried the em- battled turrets of Goodrich Caftle ; the firft view of thefe ruins, which prefent thcmlelves at a fudden bend of the river, crowning the fummit of an eminence clothed with wood, is extremely grand and interefting ; they vanifli and re- appear at different intervals, and as we pafled under them aflumed a lefs majeftic, but a more picturefque afpect. Having breakfafted at a ferry-houfe,_at the foot of the hill on which the caftle js fituated, we attended the fleep fides of the acclivity, through rich groves of oak and elm, to the ruins, which on our approach reaflumed their former gran- deur. I fhall not attempt to defcribe thefe remains, or to detail their hiftory ; but refer the reader to an accurate defcription, illuftrated with a ground plot, and feveral interefting views, publifhed by Bonnor. I fhall only obferve, that among all * 1 have fimply defcribed this part of the river as it vated meads in the vicinity, backed by riling hills, pppeared to me ; but at particular times, when the appear to advantage, river is high, the ltream is more rapid, and the culti- C O U 11 T F I E L D. 343 all the accounts of the caftle given to the public, William Herbert, earl of Pembroke is not mentioned as a proprietor, although he obtained from Edward the fourth, among many other pofieflions, the caftle and manor of Goodrich, with the lordfhip and manor of Urchenfield *. Descending from the caftle, we pafTed through fome pleafant meadows to a farm houfe, once the fite of a priory, and traced, in the gothic windows and part of the chapel, the remains of the ancient ftruclure. Re-embarking, we continued our courfe, and were gently carried down the dream by the current. The fecnery is mild and placid, the river is bounded on each fide by wooded acclivities, above which to the left towers the fpire of Ruer- dean church peeping from the midft of the foreft, and near Lid brook the Hopes of the hills are thickly fprinkled with cottages, delightfully fituated in the midft of lurrounding copfes. From Lidbrook large quantities of coal are fent to llofs and Hereford ; and we palled feveral barges towed by ten or eleven men, which by great exertions are drawn to Hereford in two days. Hitherto the county of Hereford uniformly occupied both fides of the river, but a little beyond Lidbrook the diftrict of Monmouthfhire, called the parifh of Welfh Bicknor, extends along the right bank. The boatmen pointed out the north- eaftern boundary, which is marked by a hedge, feparating a common from a wood, at the extremity of Coppet hill ; the common is in Herefordshire, the wood in Monmouthfhire. Here I difembarked, and walked to Courtfield, a feat belonging to the family of Vaughan, which is not unnoticed in the pages of hiftory. According to tra- dition it is the place where Henry the fifth was nurfed, under the care of the countefs of Salifbury, from which circumftance the original name of Greyfleld is faid to have been changed into Courtfield-}-. The houfe is of a much more modern date than the period of Henry the fifth, and does not contain any thing which recals the memory of thofe times. The tattered remains of a rich bed, called the bed of Henry the fifth, were long fhewn at this place, and his old cradle was preferved at the houfe of the Rev. Mr. Ball, rector of Newland, in the vici- nity, * Dugdale's Baronage, article Herbert. Court was a common name for a manor houfe, where f This is probably an erroneous tradition j for the lord of the manor held his court. 344 C H A P T E R 35. nity, which defcended to him from his anceftor, one of the rockers ; it is now in the pofleffion of Mr. Whitehead, of French Hay, near Briftol, and -from the en- graving given by Bonnor, feems to be a curious piece of antiquity. Welfh Bicknor church, about half a mile from Courtfield, contains a curious fepulchral effigies, without an infcription or coat of arms, which has much exercifed the ingenuity of antiquaries ; it is a recumbent figure of a woman in ftone, placed on the floor, and according to tradition reprefents the countefs of Salifbury, who refided at Courtfield, and was the reputed nurfe of Henry the fifth. She is drefTed in a loofe robe ; and at her head were two figures, one of which is erafed , but the other reprefents an angel *. The perfon here interred was probably Margaret, daughter and heir of Thomas lord Monthermer ; fhe efpoufcd lir John de Montacute, fecond fon of William firft earl of Salifbury, and held the manor of Weljh Bicknor until her death, which happened in 1395. Henry was born at Monmouth, in 1387, and being a fickly child, was probably fent to Courtfield, in the parifh of Welfh Bicknor, for a change of air, under the care of lady Montacute, who was equally with the noble infant defcended from Edward the firft. Although fhe was not countefs of Salifbury herfelf, yet being daughter in law of one earl, fifter in law of another, and mother of a third, flie may have been eafily mifcalled by that title. On comparing the effigies with others in Gough's fepulchral monuments, the fculpture accords with the flyle of the a?ra in which Margaret died. Sir John de Montacute, her fon, doing homage, had livery of all her lands j among which was the manor of IVelJli Bicknor. On the deceafe of his uncle William, without ifTue, in 1397, he fucceeded to the earldom of Salifbury, was appointed earl marfhal of England, became chief of the Lollards, and was maffacred in 1400 by the populace at Cirencefter, for a fuppoled attempt to rcinftate Richard the fecond on the throne. Being attainted, his property was confifcated, and the manor of Welfh Bicknor, with his other pofTeffions, vefted in the crown. It was afterwards reftored to the family, and conveyed through Alice his grand -daughter to her fon Richard, the great earl of Warwick and * An engraving of the figure is annexed, from a drawing taken on the fpot, in which a few dilapidated parts, of no material confequencc, have been fupplied by the artift. rui.Jult, le.7tti.iy Cadtit&DcvUt Strand WELSH BiCKNOR, 345 and Salifbury. During the numerous attainders and confifcations, which over- whelmed his unfortunate family, Wellh Bicknor was alternately poffeffed by the crown and his defcendants. The laft perfon of his illuftrious race mentioned by Dugdale as poffeffing Wellh Bicknor, is Margaret, daughter of the duke of Clarence, and wife of fir Richard Pole, lord Montague. After witneffing the imprifonment, attainder, and execution of her brother the earl of Warwick, and of her fon Henry lord Montague, fhe was beheaded in 1541 ; but in 1553* her grand -daughters were reftored in blood and honour *. From * EDWARD I. d. i 5 07=ELE0N0RA. r — 1 Edward II. d. 1327. Joan of Acres, d. 1305— Ralph de Monthermer. Thomas Lord Monthermer, William de Montacute, ift Earl— Catherine, dr. of k. 1340. of Salifbury, d. 1343. I Lord Grandifoa John of Gaunt, d. 1399. Margaret, Lady=Sir John de Montacute, William, 2d. Earl=Elifabeth, dr. and cohr. d. 1391. of Salifbury of John Lord Mohun, d. 1397. of Dunfter, d. 1414, bur. at Buftkhant Montacute. of Welrti Bicknor, Henry IV. d. 14 1 3. d. 1395. Henry V. b. 1387, d. 1422. f Join, 3d Earl of Salifbury, Marfhal=Maud, dr. of Sir Adam Francis, of England, k. 1400. | Thomas, 4th Earl of Salifbury, d. i428==Eleanor, dr. and cohr. of Thomas Holland Earl of Kent. I Alice=Richard, fon of Ralph Earl of Weftmoreland, Earl of Sali/bury in right of his wife, d. 1463. Richard, Earl of Sali/bury and Warwick, k. i^jj—Anna, fifter and heir of Henry D. of Warwick. Ceorge Duke of Clarence, d. i479=Uabcl. Anne=Richard III. d. 1485. I 1 Edward Earl of Warwick, beh 1499. Margaret, beh. is 4 i = Richard Pole, Lord Montagu:. I I I Henry Lord Montague Jane, dr. of George Nevill Geoffrey. Arthur. Reginald, Cardinal Pole, beh. 1541. Lord Abergavenny. j I ~| Franc,s=Catherine. S.r Thomas Haftings, kt ad. fon of=Wiai/red=S* Thomas Harrington, of Birrington, 20 Earl of George ift Earl of Huntingdon, Eflex. Huntingdon. a. i^i, without iflue. Yy 34 6 CHAPTER 35. From this period I can difcover no documents concerning the proprietors of Welfli Bicknor, until I find the manor and manfion of Courtfield in the poffefilon of the Vaughan * family. It appears from a pedigree in the Heralds' office, that in the reign of Elifabcth, John Vaughan of Clifford Park in the county of Hereford, was lord of Welfih Bicknor. He married Anne, daughter of John Powell of Perthir, and left one fon, Richard, who died in 1697, aged 96, and who prevented the extinction of the family, by taking a fecond wife, at the advanced age of 75; of which event a fingular anecdote is related in the family. His only fon who was fettled at Huntfholme, having been long married without iffue, the father frequently rallied him on the fub- ject. Walking out with him one day, he faid, " Son, let me fee if you can leap over this gate;" the fon attempted, but did not fucceed; on which the old gentleman vaulted over with great agility, and exclaimed, " As I have cleared the gate for you, fo I believe I muft e'en provide you with an heir."" Soon after this event he fulfilled his promife, and efpoufing Agatha, daughter of John Berrington, efq, of Cowarne Court, in the county of Hereford, had three daughters, and a fon named John, who, by the death of his elder brother, became fole heir, and left iffue by his fecond wife, Elifabcth, daughter of Philip Jones, efq. of Lanarth Court ; from his fecond fon, Richard, who was a general in the Spanifh fervice, William Vaughan, efq. the prefent proprietor of Court- field is defcended. A filver chalice, belonging to the church, bears the date of 1 146 ; it is in the form of a vafe, and the fhape is not inelegant ; had not the date afcertained it,, the zig zag ornaments, with which the edge is chafed, would have proved it the workmanfhip of the Saxon, or early Norman sera. We * I fhall not attempt to trace the early pedigree of and part of Llewes, the Vaugha-ns- of Courtfield are the Vaughan family, which is undoubtedly of high probably defcended from the lame illuftrious anceftry. antiquity ; I fliall only obferve, that as the Vaughans But as the Herbert arms feem to have been borne by t>f Clifford, as well as thofe of Bredwardin, Hergeft, the family from the earlicft refidence in this place to Cliro, Llewes, Tretowre, and Talgarth, were de- the prefent time, fome perfons have fuppofed them a feended from fir Roger Vaughan, firft hufband of collateral branch of the Herberts. The creft, how- Gladys, daughter of fir David Gam, and as the pre- ever, is that of the Vaughans ; a child's head couped, fcnt proprietors of Courtfkld Hill poifcfs Cliro and the neck entwined with a ferpent. NAVIGATION OF THE WY. 347 We re-embarked near the church j a little beyond the inSulated district of Monmouthfliire terminates, and the boatmen pointed out a fragment of rock lying in the bed of the river, which they called the county rock, and which marks the junction of the three counties ; from this point the right bank lies in Herefordfhire, and the left in GloceSterShire. From the church of WelSh Bicknor, we proceeded without interruption to the New Weir; during this courfe, the fcenery of the banks affumed a new character ; hitherto it was of a mild and pleafing call ; the rocks which formed the rifing banks, were fo en- tirely clothed with trees, as to be feldom visible, or only feen occasionally through the impending foliage ; but in this part of the navigation, the rock became a primary object, and the Stream waflied the bafe of Stupendous cliffs. Among thefe, the moft remarkable are Coldwell Rocks, and Symond's Gate, forming a majeStic amphitheatre, appearing, vanifhing, and re-appearing, in different Shapes, and with different combinations of wood and water; at one time darting from the edge of the river, and forming a perpendicular rampart ; at another towering above woods and hills, like the battlements of an immenfe caStle, as much more fublime than Goodrich, as nature is fuperior to art. The weather was peculiarly favourable, the iky clear and ferene, the fun fhone in full fplendour, illumined the projecting faces of the rock, and deepened the fhade of the impervious woods, which mantle the oppofite banks. Here the meandring courfe of the river is peculiarly Striking ; from the bot- tom of Symond's Gate to the New Weir, the direct line is not more than 600 yards * ; but the distance by water exceeds four miles. At this fpot the com- pany ufually difembark, mount the fummit, and defcending on the other fide, rejoin the boat at the New Weir. From the top of Symond's Gate, which is not lefs than 2000 feet in height above the Surface of the water, the Spectator enjoys a Singular view of the numerous mazes of the Wy, and looks down on the river, watering each Side of the narrow and precipitous peninfula on which he Stands, I continued the navigation, however, becauSe I was unwilling to lofe the * Determined by Mr. Taylor. Heath's Voyage down the Wye, p. 7. Y y 2 34 8 CHAPTER 35. the beauties of the ever fhifting fcenery, and preferred a fucceflion of homer views on the banks beneath, to the moft boundlefs expanfe of profpedt from above. In this part the fides of the hills and the bed of the river were flrewed with enormous fragments of rock, which almoft obftructed the pafTage of the boat, and rendered the current extremely rapid. For fome way the fore ground of the landfcape was comparatively tame and dull ; but the back ground was ftill formed by the fublime rocks of Coldwell. At the ferry of Hunfton, which is only one mile from Goodrich by land, but feven by water, the rocks difappear, and are fucceeded by a ridge of eminences, covered with an intermixture of heath and foreft, until we paffed the pleafant village of Whitchurch,, and reached the New Weir, at which place a fluice is formed for the pafTage of boats. The views at the New Weir equal in romantic beauty the fcenery at Coldwel! rocks; the deep vale in which the river flows, is bounded on one fide by the Great Doward, a floping hill fprinkled with lime kilns and cottages, and overhanging fome iron works feated on the margin of the water ; on the other rifes the chain of precipices forming the fide of the peninfula, which is oppofite to Cold- well rocks, and vies with them in ruggednefs and fublimity. Near the iron works, a weir ftretches tranfverfely acrofs the dream,, over which the river, above fmooth and tranquil, falls in no inconfiderable cataracl, and roaring over fragments of rock, is gradually loft in the midft of impending woods.. The remainder of our navigation prefented a fucceflion of beautiful fcenes, perpetually varied by the undulations of the hills, the richnefs of the woods,, and the abrupt windings of the river, until we reached the bottom of the Little Doward, whofe precipitous fides prefent a rugged rampart of rock. Turning round its fouthern extremity, we pafled under the Lays, a houfe delightfully fituated at the foot of the precipice, overlooking the water, and caught a long reach of the river, terminating in a perfpe&ive view of Monmouth bridge, and part of the town, with the fpire rifing amid tufts of trees.. Monmouthmire here commences on the left bank, with the rich groves of Hadnock ; NAVIGATION OF THE WY, Hadnock * j on the right, the county is divided from Hcrefordlhire by a fmall brook, which croffes the turnpike road leading from Monmouth to Rofs, and falls into the Wy. We pafTed on one fide a chain of wooded eminences, which ftretch from Hadnock to the Kymin, on the other a fucceflion of rich meadows, with the fmall but fequeftered church of Dixon, (landing near the margin of the river, and finilhed the firft day's navigation at Monmouth. * Hadnock manor once formed part of the duchy of nock woods." In the reign of Elifabetb, Charles Lancafter, and was comprifed in the manor of Mon- Herbert, fon of fir William Herbert of Coldbrook, by mouth. It appears from the archives, that in the jane, daughter of Thomas ap John of Treowen, was fixth of Elifabeth, an order was iflued from the leated at Hadnock ; his fon Giles married Eleanor, chancery court, " to bound out the demefnes of daughter of Henry Herbert of Wonaftow, by lady Hadnock from the copyhold;" and in the twenty- Lucy Somerfet. Sandford, p. 3+8. It is now the reli- {tventh, a commifilon " was ordered to furvey Had- deuce of the Rev. Dr. Griffin. [ 35° 3 CHAPTER 36. Navigation of the Wy. — From Monmouth to Tintern. — Ruins of the Abbey Church.—* From Tint em to Chepflow. "T T TE embarked on the fubfequent morning at nine, below Monmouth bridge, * * and continued our navigation ; the banks on each fide are low, and the country level, but bounded at a little diftance by ridges of hills ; on the right towered the Kymin crowned by the pavilion, on the left we fkirted the pleafant meadow of Chippenham, and paffed the mouth of the Monnow, which falls tranquilly into the Wy. Behind, we looked back upon a pleafing view of the town, and before the hanging woods of Troy Park formed a delightful objed in the landfcape, as they rofe above the banks of the Trothy, which poured rapidly through a deep and narrow channel, and difcoloured with its muddy flream the purer current of the Wy. About two miles from Monmouth, a fmall dream called Redbrook feparates Monmouthfhire from Glocefterfhire, from which point the Wy continues the boundary of the two counties ; here is a fmall village, where a ferry, and fome iron and tin works, give animation to the romantic fcenery. Beyond Redbrook the river forms a grand fweep, and flows in an abyfs, between two ranges of lofty hills, thickly overfpread with woods, the gloom of which was foftened by the diverfified tints of the autumnal foliage. In a few places the banks are lefs fleep, expand into gentle undulations, are fkirted by narrow meadows, and admit occafional views of the diftant country; among which the church and caftle of St. Briaval's, crowning the fummit of an 8 eminence NAVIGATION OF THE WY. 351 eminence in the foreft of Dean, are pleafing objects. We were then hurried along a rapid current, called Big's Weir, where the river eddies over fragments of rock, leaving only a narrow fpace for the paffage of boats. In this picturefque fpot the feat of general Rooke, member for the county of Monmouth, ftands on the left bank, and on the oppofite fide Pilfon Houfe appears in the back ground. From hence the river winds by the beautiful hamlet of Landogo, fituated in a fmall plain tufted with woods, and backed by an amphitheatre of lofty hills j the view of the church peeping through the trees is extremely picturefque, and is well reprefented by Mr. Ireland f5» Brook's Weir, a village fituated on the left bank, nearly half way between Monmouth and Chepftow, exhibits the appearance of trade and activity. Nu- merous veflels from 80 to 90 tons were anchored near the more, waiting for the tide, which ufually flows no higher than this place. Thefe veflels princi- pally belong to Briftol, and afcend the river for the purpofe of receiving the commodities brought from Hereford and Monmouth, in the barges of the Wy, which on account of the fhoals do not draw more than five or fix inches of water. During the courfe of the navigation from Rofs,, we pafled feveral fmall fifliing craft, called Truckles or Coricles -f, ribbed with laths or balket work, and co- vered with pitched canvafs.. Like a canoe, the coricle holds only one perfon, who navigates it by means of a paddle with one hand, and fllhes with the other ; thefe boats are fo light, that the fifhermen throw them on their flioulders and carry them home. We difembarked about half a mile above the village of Tintern, and followed the finuous courfe of the Wy. As we advanced to the village, we pafled fome picturefque ruins hanging over the edge of the water, which are fuppofed to have formed part of the abbot's villa, and other buildings occupied by the monks j fome of thefe remains are converted into dwellings and cottages, others are interfperfed among the iron founderies and habitations. The * See Piclurefque Views on the Wye, p. 131.. f The name coricle is fuppofed to be derived fromcorium % hide, with which feme of thefe b:ats were occafion illy covered. 35 i CHAPTER 5 6. The ill it appearance of the celebrated remains of the abbey church, did not equal my expectations, as they are half concealed by mean buildings, and the triangular fhape of the gable ends has a formal appearance. After paffing a miferable row of cottages, and forcing our way through a crowd of importunate beggars, we flopped to examine the rich architecture of the weft front ; but the door being fuddenly opened, the infide perfpective of the church called forth an inftantaneous burft of admiration, and filled me with delight, fuch as I fcarcely ever before experienced on a fimilar occafion. The eye paffes rapidly along a range of elegant gothic pillars, and glancing under the fublime arches which fupported the tower, fixes itfelf on the fplendid relics of the eaftern window, the grand termination of the choir. From the length of the nave, the height of the walls, the afpiring form of the pointed arches, and the fize of the eaft window, which clofes the perfpective, the firft impreflions are thofeof grandeur and fublimity. But as thefe emotions fiabfide, and we defcend from the contemplation of the. whole to the examina- tion of the parts, we are no lefs ftruck with the regularity of the plan, the lightnefs of the architecture, and the delicacy of the ornaments ; we feel that elegance is its characteristic no lefs than grandeur, and that the whole is a com- bination of the beautiful and the fublime. This church was conltructed in the fliape of a cathedral, and is an" excellent fpecimen of gothic architecture in its greateft purity. The roof is fallen in, and the whole ruin open to the fky, but the {hell is entire ; all the pillars are {landing, except thofe which divided the nave from the northern aifle, and their fituation is marked by the remains of the bafes. The four lofty arches which fupported the tower, fpring high in the air, reduced to narrow rims of Hone, yet ft ill preferving their original form. The arches and pillars of the choir and tranfept are complete; the fhapes of all the windows may be ftill dis- criminated, and the frame of the weft window is in perfect prefervation ; the de- fign of the tracery is extremely elegant, and when decorated with painted glafs, muft have produced a fine effect. Critics who cenfure this window as too broad for its height, do not confider, that it was not intended for a. particular INSIDE OF T INTERN ABBEY , WEST VIEW. Pulilishcd,Marc}i7.x8oo.by CmUU 8c]). || " Caftellum de Eftrighoiel fecit Wilhelmus Comes " et ejus tempore reddebat xl folidos tantum de " navibus in filva euntibus. Et medietatem habebat " Rad : de Limefi ; modo habet rex inde xii. lib. " Tempore vero Rogerii Comitis filii ejus reddit " ipfa villa, xvi. lib." Domefday Book, art. Glccefterfliire. It CHEPSTOW CASTLE. It is alfo far more probable that the caftellated manfion mould be called Striguil, becaufe it was built and inhabited by the earls of Striguil or Chepftow, than that this large, ancient, and important fortrefs mould derive its appellation from that inligniiicant edifice. The caftle is fituated on the brow of a precipice, overhanging the right bank of the Wy ; the northern fide is advanced clofe to the edge, and conftru£ted in fuch a manner as to appear a part of the cliff ; the fame ivy which overfpreads the walls, twines and cluflers round the huge fragments, and down the perpen- dicular fide of the rock. The remaining parts of the caftle were defended by a moat, and confift of maflive walls, flanked with lofty towers. The area occupies a large tract of ground, and is divided into four courts. The grand entrance to the eaft is a circular arch between two round towers, formerly ftrengthened by a portcullis, and exhibits a venerable fpecimen of Nor- man architecture ; it leads into the firft court, which contains the fhells of the grand hall, kitchens, and numerous apartments of confiderable fize, ftill retaining veftiges of baronial fplendor*. A few of thefe rooms, which are lefs di- lapidated than the reft, are tenanted by the family to whom the caftle was leafed. At An old deed quoted in the Secret Memoirs of Monmouthftiire, appendix, p. 119, calls Roger Eigod duke of Norfolk, lord of Chepftow, alias Strugle, in right of his wife. Giraldus frequently mentions " Strigulienfe Caf- trum," and " Ricardus Strongbow, Comes Strigu- lise," which his tranflators, Hollingflied and Hooker, interpret Chepftow, and earl of Chepftow. Conqueft of Ireland, chap. 2. * A few tiles, ornamented with birds and flowers, with which the halls and galleries were paved, have been preierved by arhxing them to the walls of the firft court. Not lefs than twenty-four ancient chim- nies ftill remain ; the principal one of the inhabited part is handlbmely decorated on the outfide, and the infide is glazed, which prevents the accumu- lation of the foot, and it was never fwept during the memory of Mrs. Williams, which muft have been near eighty years. It is plain, from the mention of fliips and of a town, that the place here alluded to, could not be the caftellated manfion on the borders of Wentwood, which is feated at a confiderable diftance from any navigable river. Atkyns, in his hiftory of Glocefter- fhire, p. 4.5, fiuppofes this Caftellum de Eftrighoiel to be the caftle of Eaft bridge hotel in Glocefter, and Rudder, p. 89, mifcalls it Esirighoiel, and confiders it as the caftle of Glocefter. The illuftrator o'f Domefday Book, milled by thefe authorities, makes Es/righoiel and Es^righoiel two places, calls them Chepftow and Glocefter, and interprets Strigul or Strigoil likewife to mean Glocefter. It is evident, however, from the early hiftorians, as weil as from ancient deeds and charters, that Striguil and Chepftow fignify the fame place, which Tanner has fufneiently proved in the note quoted in the laft chapter. See alfo Dugdale's Baronage paflim, J.e'.and, vol. vi. fol. 22. vol. ix. p. 36. 3 6S CHAPTER 38. At the fouth eaftern angle of this court is a round tower, now called Harry Marten's Tower*, which was the keep or citadel ; the infide front, which has a gothic entrance with hanging arches, and fquare windows, is poftcrior to the original ftructure ; the outfide is maffive, appears in its ancient ftate, and bears (hiking marks of its Norman origin. On the weftern fide of this court, near a round tower called the old kitchen, a gate opens into the fecond court, now a garden, at the extremity of which another gateway leads into the third court, and to a neat and elegant building ufually called the chapel. The walls of this edifice are partly formed with hewn ftone and partly with rubble, which is covered with a hard cement of pebbles and mortar. Some Roman bricks interfperfed in the weftern and fouthcrn fides, have induced antiquaries to fuppofe it of Roman workmanfhip, and to diftinguiQi it by the name of the Roman wall ; but thefe bricks are too few in number to fupport this opinion, and the whole building appears to confift of heterogeneous mate- rials, collected from the remains of dilapidated ftruclures. The infide is a grand area ninety feet in length, and thirty in breadth ; the roof is fallen, and the remaining walls arc not iefs than forty feet high. It is ufually fuppofed to have formed one magnificent room ; but a range of aper- tures for beams in the fide walls, about thirteen feet from the ground, feem to prove that it was divided into an upper and lower apartment, unlefs they were intended to fupport a gallery. At the height of eighteen feet appears a row of rounded arches, each nearly ten feet high and eight broad, fuppofed to have been niches, containing either ftatues of the twelve apoftles, or feats for 'the twelve knights of Glamorgan, when they paid their firfl homage to Robert Fitzhamon, for the lands which they conquered under his banners. The number of thefe fuppofed niches however does not juflify this conjecture ; for I counted no lefs than fifteen, and they appear to have been nothing more than arches, formed for the purpofe of lightening the walls, which were unprovided with buttrefies -)~. All thefe except two • See the next chapter. t One of thefe which is ftill open gradually narrows, and probably ended in a chink or oeillet. Full. July IMoo.Vy CailcU &Davies Strand CHEPSTOW CAST L E. 369 two are filled up, and appear to have been fluccoed two of them are almoft covered with part of the gothic arch that fupported the roof. The prefent entrance at the north probably led to a vaulted chamber be- neath, but the grand entrance was by a flight of fleps, flill vifible on the out- fide of the eaflern wall, through a femi-circular arched doorway *, now clofed, in the upper part of which appear a Roman brick and two flones, ornament- ed with Saxon mouldings, plainly taken from the remains of more ancient flru'dlures. Within this entrance, a flaircafc in the wall afcends to a door, on a level with the range of arches which opened into the upper chamber or gallery, and from thence to the battlements. The original character of this building is Saxon or Norman, yet the deco- rations are gothic ; the windows are moflly in the ornamented ftyle of that fpecies of architecture, and the remains of an elegant arch, enriched with foliage and trigliphs, which fupported the roof, fpring from the walls -f. Thefe veftiges of gothic fplendor, prove confidcrable alterations in the building poflerior to its original conftruction. At the fouth-weftern angle of the third court is a flaircafc afcending to the battlements and towers ; this court is likewife a garden, and formerly communi- cated by a draw-bridge with the fourth or laft court, which now can only be entered by creeping through a fally port in the fouth wall. The weflern entrance of the caflle was ftrengthened with three portcullifes and a draw- bridge, leading into a field flill called the Caftle Ditch, which is enclofed by the wall of the townj and beyond is another meadow, denominated the Caflle Garden. From a general view of thefe remains, the grand character of the caflle ap- pears to be Norman ; the fhell was conflructed on one plan, and at the fame cera ; but alterations and additions were made by the different proprietors. The range of buildings on the northern fide of the firft court, are wholly con- flructed in the ornamented gothic ftyle of architecture, and are evidently more modern than the reft of the caflle. Soon * See fig. 1, in the plan of Chepftow caftle. t See flcetch of part of the north and fouth wall, on the fame plate, fig. 2. and 3. 3 B 37 o CHAPTER 38, Soon after the conqueft this part of Monmouthihire, then included in the county of Gloceftcr, came into the polfeffion of the Normans , and it appears from Domefday Book, that Wilhelmu3 Comes, who is called by Dugdale and Camden, William Fitz Ofborn, earl of Hereford, built the caftle of Eftrighoiel * or Chepftow.. He was lord of Breteuil in Normandy, nearly related to the conque- ror, and a principal advifer of the invafion, in which he held high command, and diftinguimed himfelf at the battle of Hafhings. For thefe fervices he was re- warded with ample pofleffions, and created judiciary for the north of England, and joint marfhal with. Roger de Montgomery. He was killed in 1070, in an expedition againft Robert the Frifon. He left three fons ; the elded, William, inherited his efcates in Normandy ; the fecond, Ralph, was a monk ; and the third, Roger de Britolio, fucceeded to the earldom of Hereford, and obtained this caftle amongft his other poifeflions in England. But foon afterwards, having rebelled againft the king, he was defeated, deprived of his eftates, and condemned to perpetual impriibnment. The following anecdote, relating to his conduct in confinement, is given by Dugdale : " Though he frequently ufed many fcornful and contumelious ex- prctfions towards the king, yet he was pleafed at the celebration of the feaft of Eafter in a folemn manner,, (as was then ufual) to fend to this earl Roger, at thai time in prifon, his royal robes, who fo difdained the favour, that he forthwith caufed a great fire to be made, and the mantle,, the inner furcoat of iilk, and the upper garment,, lined with precious furs, to be fuddeniy burnt. Which being made known to the king, he became not a little difpleafed, and faid, " Certainly he is a very proud man who kath thus abujed me ; but, by the bright nefs of God, he fliall never come out of prifon fo long as I live. Which expreflion was fulfilled to the utmoft, fur he .never was releafed during that king's life, nor after, but died in prifon." His eftates being forfeited, the caftle was transferred to the great family of Clare f, for in the reign of Henry thefirft, we find it in the poffeflion of Gilbert, furnamed * Domefday Book. See note to p. 366* The account of the early proprietors of this caftle, •f- They bore this name from an ancient town in and the pedigree of the Ciare family, is extreme^ Suffolk-, granted by the conqueror to their ancdlor obicure. Dugdale has prelerved in his Monafticon two Richard dc Tonaebruge, ancient deeds concerning the genealogy of the Clares, founders CHEPSTOW CASTLE. 37* furnamed Strongbow, brother of Richard earl of Clare, who, according to Dug- dale, poffeffed Nctherwent with the whole dominion of Striguil. At the corona- tion of Henry the fecond he executed the office of marfhal of England, was created earl of Pembroke, and as proprietor of this cattle, is often ftyled earl of Striguil. founders of Tintern abbey, which are contrary to each other: according to one, William Fitz Olborn was himfelf their great anceftor; but, according to the other, Richard Fitz Gilbert. In his Baronage, art. Clare, he has followed the latter pedigree ; he feems alfo to have confounded Walter, the founder of Tin- Gilbert tern abbey, with his nephew. Dugdate, Monafticon, vol. i. p. 724. Baronage, art. Clare, and earls of Here- ford. According to Leland, likewife, William Fitz Ofbert was the anceftor of the Clares; but Gilbert Strongbow was the ion of Walter. Itin. vol. vi.fol. * 3.. PEDIGREE OF THE CLARE FAMILY. Ofbert, Earl of Ogie. I Wiliiam. I Richard. Walcer, founder of Tintern. 1 Gilbert. Gilbert, furnamed 5tro:-;gbo\T. Richard Fife Gilbert. Gilbert ifc Tonnebruge. Roger. 2. Gilbert Strongbow, 3. Walter, d. without Eail of Pembroke, ifi'ue. i. 1 148, Walter, founder of Tintcrr- t d. without ili'ue, 1 13 1. j. Richard, Earl of Clave and Hertford. Richard, d. 1 176. William Varihal, Fail of Pembroke,^ Ifjbel. d. 1219. i William. Richard. Gilbert. Walter. Anfelm. d, without ifTue. Maud, d. iz4S.=pHugh, Bignd, Fail Joan. of Norfolk, d. ifabc). 1225. SibylL Eve. I I ■Roger, Lord Marflwl, d. 1:70, Hugh, Juftice of England, Without ifl'ue. living 1264. I 1 Roger, fnrrender«d Striguil, John, d. HQ-, without ilRe. Gilbert, d. Roger, d. 1151- Ii73- Richard, m. Amicia, dr. and coheirefs of Wil- liam, ft-cond Earl of Glocefter, d. 1207. Gilbert,' Earl of Clare, Glocefter, and Hertford, d. 1229. Richard, See chapter on Ufk, 3 B 2 37 2 CHAPTER 38. Gilbert dying in 1 148, was Succeeded in his earldom of Pembroke and office of marfhal of England by his fon Richard de Clare, alfo furnamed Strongbow, and ftyled earl of Striguil. Ireland was then under the dominion of five fovereigns, of whom Dermot Macnagh, king of Leinfter, and Roderic, furnamed the great, king of Connaught, were the molt considerable. Dilputes arifing between thefe two kings, Dermot was dethroned, and implored the protection of Henry the fecond, who was then in Aquitain engaged in a war with France. Henry, though anxious to interfere in the affairs of Ireland, could not afford immediate fuccour to the fugitive king, but permitted him to apply to the Englifh barons. Dermot among others gained Richard Strongbow, by promiling him his daughter in marriage, with the fucceffion to the crown of Leinfter. In 1171, Richard landed at Waterford with 1,200 men, efpoufed the princefs, and, his father-in- law dying, conquered and took pofTeflion of Leinfter, with Dublin the capital. This brilliant fuccefs gave umbrage to Henry the fecond , he feifed the earl's property in Normandy, England, and Wales, and levying a confiderable army, pafled over to Ireland with a refolution to annex Leinfter to the crown of Eng- land ; but .was appeafed by the ceflion of "Waterford and Dublin, and all the caftles received from Dermot. Accordingly the earl. was reftored to his eftates, permitted to enjoy his wife's inheritance, and constituted conftable of Ireland. Giraklus Cambrenfis thus delineates the character of Richard Strongbow : This earle was fomewhat ruddie and of fanguine complexion and freckle face r *' his eyes greie, his face feminine, his voice fmall, and his nccke little, but fome- **• what of a high ftature : he was verie liberall, courteous, and gentle ; what he " could not compaffe or bring to pafffe in deed, he would win by good words **" and gentle fpecches. In time of peace he was more readie to yeeld and obeie *' than to rule and bearc fwaie. Out of the campe he was more like to a fouldier " companion than a captaine or ruler ; but in the campe and in the warres he " carried with him the ftate and countenance of a valiant captaine. Of himfelfe *' he .would not adventure anie thing ; but being advifed and fet on, he refufed " no attempts ; for of himfelfe he would no£ ralhlie adventure or prefumptuoullie 4 take CHEPSTOW CASTLE. 373 ,c take anie thing in hand. In the fight and battell he was a moft aflurect token *' and figne to the whole companie, either to (land valiantlie to the fight, or for " policie to retire. In all chances of warre he was ftill one and the fame manner of " man, being neither difmaied with adverfitie nor puffed up with profperitie *." Richard St rongbow dying in 1176, without iflue male, Ifabella his daughter and heirefs, conveyed the cattle town and manor of Striguil, with all his other poffefTions, to her hufband, William, marfhal of England, who became lord pro^ tec~tor of the kingdom on the acceffion of Henry the third : in right of his wife he was created earl of Pembroke and Eftrigol -j- ; and according to Dugdale* " paid £.65. 10s. for feventy-five knights' fees and a half,, belonging to the honour of Stngul T." This illuflrious peer was the greater! warrior in a period of warfare, and the moft loyal fubjecl: in an age of rebellion : by the united influence of wifdom and valour, he fupported the tottering crown of king John, broke the confederacy of the barons, who had fworn allegiance to Lewis dauphin of France* drove away the foreign ufurper, fixed Henry the third on the throne of his anceftors, and gave peace to his diftracled country. He died in 1219, and was buried in the nev£ temple, with this epitaph on his monument : " Sum qui Saturnum fibi fenfit Hibernia, folem " Anglia j Mercurium Normania ; Galiia Martem.'* " For he had been," as Matthew Paris obferves," afevere tamer of the Irifh, a great " favourer of the Englilh, atchieved much in Normandy, and was an invincible " foldier in France §." On the demife of his five fons, William, Richard, Gil- bert, Walter, and Anfelm, without iffue, his vafl inheritance was divided among his five daughters, and Hugh Bigod earl of Norfolk, in virtue of his marriage with Maud, the eldeft, received the caftle and borough of Strugoil, He died in 1225, and after frequent folicitation his widow obtained the office and honour of marfhal, in virtue of her defcent : Henry the third, himfelf, " folemnly gave the marfhal's rod into her hands, which (he thereupon delivered unto earl Roger, her fon * The Conqueit of Ireland, tranflated by Holling- J Baronage, vol. I. p. 601, ihed, chap. a8. § Ibid, p, 602, f Maddox's Hiftory of the Exchequer, p. 20, J74 CHAPTER 33. fon and heir, whofe homage the king received for the fame." " Maud afterwards married John de Warren earl of Surrey, and departing this life in 1248, was buried in the abbey of Tinterne, her four fons, Roger, Hugh, Ralph, and John, carrying her body into the choir *." Her grandfon Roger, duTatisfied with his brother John, furrendered all his eftates and honours to king Edward the firft, who re-granted them to him and to his iffue by Alice his wife. On his death without iffue, Edward the fecond, in virtue of the furrender, granted to his brother Thomas Plantagenet, called de Brotherton -f , the earldom of Norfolk, and all the eftates poffefled by the Bigods, among which were the caftle and town of Chepftow. By his firft wife Alice, daughter of fir Roger Hales of Harwich, knight, he left two daughters and coheirs, Margaret, firft married to John lord Segrave, and fecondly to fir Walter Manney, knight of the garter, and Alice, to fir Edward de Montacute. The caftle and manor of Striguil, with the town of Chepftow, were afiigned to his widow, Mary, daughter of William lord Rous, as part of her dowry, and on her death in 1362, were given in purparty to Margaret, then wife of fir Walter Manney, who was afterwards created duchefs of Norfolk. Margaret * Dugdale, vol. i.p. 134. f THOMAS DE BROTHERTON, d. 133S. I n John de Sejrave,=pMargarEt, cr. duchefs of Norfolk, — Sir Walter Manney, Kt. Alice, m. Edward d. 1353. 1 d. 1398. I d. 1373. de Montacute. John de Mowbray— Elilabeth Anne=Jphn de Mailings, Earl of k. 1368. I Pembroke, and Baron of I Bergavenny, d. 1375. 1 John Earl of Nottingham, Thomas Duke of Norfolk, John, d. 1390, without iflue. d. 1 382. d. 1 399. _ I , r i i 1 Thomas, beh. 1405. John, c. 1434, fcif. Ifabel, m. J. Henry Fencrs, Margaret, m. Sir of Strigoil. 2. Sir James Berkley, Robeit Howard. I d. 1452. John, Earl of \\ arren and Surry, and Duke ot Norfoik, d. 1475. I Anne, contr. to Richard Duke of York. CHEPSTOW CASTLE, 37- Margaret had two daughters, Elifabeth, by lord Segrave, who efpoufed John 1 de Mowbray, and Anne, by fir Walter Manney, wife of fir John de Haftings, earl of Pembroke and baron of Abergavenny, who obtained the caftle of Strigul, with the town of Chepftow. They afterwards, either on his deceafe, or on the death of his fon John, reverted to Margaret, and caTne into the polieffion of her grandfon, Thomas fon of John de Mowbray. He was created, in right of his grandmother, earl marfhal of England, duke of Norfolk, and after receiving great honours^ and lucrative employments from Richard the fecond, forfeited the favour of his capricious fovereign. was banifhed, and died in exile in 1399. His eldeft fon Thomas was beheaded in 1405, and his fecond fon John, created in his father's life time earl of Warren and Surrey, became alio duke of Norfolk, and earl marfhal of England ; he died in 1434, " fcifed of the caftle manor and borough of Strogoil, which were affigned to his wife Catherine, daughter of Ralph Neville earl of Weftmoreland, as part of her dowry." His fon John fucceeded to his honours and eftates, and appears to have fold the caftle manor and lordfhip of Chepftow to William Herbert * earl of Pembroke, who polieffed them at the time of his death -f. They devolved on his foa William, afterwards created earl of Huntingdon, and were conveyed by his daughter and heirefs Elifabeth, to her hufband fir Charles Somerfet, who was immediately fummoned to parliament, jure uxoris, by the title of lord Her- bert of Raglan, Chepftow, and Gower, and afterwards raifed to the earldom of Worcefter J. This fortrefs was confidered as very important to both parties, during the civil wars * " To Chepftowe yet, my pen agayne mufi: pafTe, f As appears from the inquifition taken after Ills « Where Strongbow once (an earie of rare renowne) death. See Dugdale's Baronage, vol 2, p. 257. * A long time fince, the lord and maifter was j See Dugdale's Baronage, art. C are, Marefchal, « (In princely fort) of caftle and of towns. Bigod, Brotherton, Segrave, Manney, HafKngs, « Then after that, to Mowbray it befell, Moubray, Herbert, and Somerfet. Edmonfon/s Ac- * Of Norfolke duke, a worthie knowne full well; count of the Marlhals of England, Heraldry, vol. 1. M Who fold the fame to William Hai bert knight, Rapin. " That was the eaile of Pembrooke then by right.'" Churchyard's Worthines of Wales, p. 7. 37 5 CHAPTER 38. wars of die laft century ; for the poffeffion of it gave authority to the king or parliament in thefe parts. At firft Chepftow was garrifoned for the king, till in 1645, colonel Morgan, governor of Glocefter, at the head of 300 horfe and 400 foot, and affifted by the mountaineers, with little difficulty made himfelf mailer of the town, and in a few days compelled the governor, colonel Fitzmorris, to furrender the caftle. But the caftle was afterwards farprifed by the loyalifts, under Sir Nicholas Kcmcys, who in the abfence of the governor, by means of a fecret correfpond- ence, obtained poffeffion cf the weftern gate, and made the garrifon prifoners of war. On this event Cromwell marched againft it in perfon, took poffeffion of the town, but affaulted the caftle without fuccefs, though garrifoned only by 160 men. l ie then left colonel Ewer, with a train of artillery, feven companies of foot, and four troops of horfe, to profecute the liege. But the garrifon de- fended themfelves valiantly, until their provifions were exhaufted, and even then rcfufed to furrender under promife of quarter, hoping to efcape by means of a boat, which they had provided for that purpofe. A foldier of the parlia- mentary army, however, fwam acrofs the river, with a knife betweer* his teeth, cut the cable of the boat, and brought it away ; the caftle was at iength forced, and Sir Nicholas Kemeys with 40 men flain in the affault. This event was con- fidercd by the parliament fo important, that the captain who brought the news was rewarded with fifty pounds, and a letter of thanks fent to colonel Ewer and the officers and fckliers engaged in that fervice*. In 1645, the caftle and park of Chepftow, together with the chafe of Went- wood, and feveral eftates which belonged to the marquis of Worccftcr and other loyalifts, to the amount of £.2,500 a year, were confifcated, and fettled by parlia- ment on Oliver Cromwell. On the acceffion of Charles the fecond, the caftle of Chepftow was reftorcd to the marquis of Worcefter, and has fince continued in the poffeffion of his defendants. - The caftle and fite belong to the duke of Beaufort, but were held on a lieafe * Rulhworth. GmrHill £firaitipr>ierit near Firrrefteld CHEPSTOW CASTLE. 377 leafe of lives which expired in 1799, on the death of Mrs. Williams, the late occupier, though by the kindnefs of the duke of Beaufort, her hufband ftill re- tains pofieflion of the caftle. This lady, who was alive in my firft expedition, and furnifhed me with much information, was eighty-five years of age. Her family by the female line afforded rare inftances of longevity; her mother, Mrs. Hutton, lived to the age of ior, her grandmother reached 103, and her great grandmother, Mrs. Charles, who died aged 106, performed the office of midwife to lady Gage, when (he had panned her hundredth year. 3 c C 378 3 CHAPTER 39. Harry Marten's Tower. — Apartment in which he was confined. — Anecdotes of his Life. r I ">HE tower at the fouth-eaftern extremity of the caftle is remarkable as the place where Henry, ufually called Harry, Marten, one of the regicides, was confined. Having previoufly perufed a doleful defcription * of the dungeon, in which he was immured, and which fcarcely admitted a tingle ray of light to alleviate the horrors of his folitary imprifonment, I was furprifed to find a comfortable fuite of rooms. The firft ftory contains an apartment which was occupied by himfelf and his wife, and above were lodgings for his domeftics. The chamber in which he ufually lived is not lefs than thirty-fix feet in length, twenty-three in breadth, and of proportionate height ; it was provided with two fire-places, and three windows, two of which appear to be the original aper- tures, and the third was probably enlarged for his convenience. Henry Marten was fon of Sir Henry Marten -f, doctor of civil laws, a judge of * " Infcription for the apartment in Chepftow daughter-in-hw Mrs. Margaret Marten. His mother caftle, where Henry Marten the regicide, was impri- Elifabeth died in 161 8, aged 44, and was buried in foned for thirty years." the lame church, leaving two fons, Henry and George, " For thirty years fecluded from mankind, and three daughters, Elifabeth, Jane, and Maria. " Here Marten linger d. Often have thefe walls Henry Marten her fon, wrote her epitaph in Latin, " Echoed his footfteps, as with even tread and added an indifferent elegy in Englilh verfe, which " He pac'd around his prifcn. Not to him he compofed at fixteen. Aflimole's Berkfhire. " Did nature's fair varieties exift " Stay, paffenger, and, if thou art not ftone, " He never faw the fun's delightful beams ; " Weep with Eurania, whofe nymph is gone ; " Save when thro' yon high bars he pour'd a fad " A nymph whome thou would'ft fweare had been " And broken fplendour—." Southey's Poems. " the fame, f See an account of him, with his portrait, in the " Divine Eurania, but for her name ; Britifh Cabinet, publifhed by E. Harding. " And yet her name her nature well expreft, His father Sir Henry Marten died on the 26th of " That in God's temple built her careful neft, September 1641, and was buried at Longworth church " Thither to fly, that Ihee the ealier may, in Berklhire, the place of his refidence, where a fe- " Her young ones teach, herfelf (loe) leads the way." pulchral ftone was ereclcd to his memory by his ANECDOTES OF H. MARTEN. 3?9 of the admiralty, dean of the arches, and judge of the prerogative court for trade, who raifed himfclf to honour and fortune by his induftry and talents ; and un- like his fon attempted to moderate the mifunderftanding between Charles the firft and his parliament. Henry the fon was born at Oxford in 1602, and after receiving the rudiments of his education, in that town, was admitted a gentleman commoner of Uni- verfity college at the age of fifteen. He took his bachelor's degree in 16 19, and repaired to London to commence the ftudy of the law. He poffeiTed good talents, which he greatly improved by clafhcal attainments ; his temper, however, was volatile and capricious, and he was too much inclined to pleafure, to pay due attention to his intended profeffion. But he was relieved from the neceflity of application by efpoufing a rich widow, whom he afterwards treated with great indifference and neglect. The dilfolutenefs of his life and immorality of his conduct led Marten to reject that pure religion which enjoins the controul of the paffions. Hence he united with Harrington, Sydney, Wildman, Nevill, and others, who fuppofed themfelves more enlightened than the reft of mankind, and denied the truth of revelation. The fame licentioufnefs of opinion, which delivered him from the reftraints of religion, influenced his fentiments on politics : warmed with the glowing images of Greek and Roman daffies, he panted for a perfect common- wealth, a republic of reprefentatives chofen by the people, and wholly governed by public opinion, which admitted no difhinction, but fuperiority of genius, talents or fcience. Imbued with thefe principles he commenced his political career in 1640, and joined the party adverfe to the court. In the two laft parliaments of Charles the firft: he reprefented Berkfhire, in which county he had confiderable eftates, and made a confpicuous figure in the long parliament. He entered with warmth into the cabals of the republican party, and was among the foremoft to difplay his anti-monarchical principles, of which lord Clarendon, in the hiftory of his own life, gives a ftriking inftance : " Mr. Hyde, walking between the parliament houfe and Weftminfter, in the church yard met with Harry Martin, with whom 3 C a he 3 8o CHAPTER 39, he lived very familiarly ; and ipeaking together about the proceedings of the houfes, Martin told him, that he would undo himfelf by his adhering to the court ; to which he replied, that he had no relation to the court, and was only concerned to maintain the government and preferve the law : and then told him that he could not conceive what he propofed to himfelf ; for he did not think him to be of the opinion or nature with thofe men who governed the houfe i and afked him what he thought of fuch and fuch men ; and he very frankly anfwered, that he thought them knaves ; and that when they had done as much as they intended to do, they fhould be ufed as they had ufed others. The other preffcd him to fay what he de-fired ; to which, after a little paufe, he very roundly anfwered, I do not think one man wife enough to govern us all : which was the firft word he ever heard any man fpeak to that purpofe - 3 and would, without doubt, if it had been then communicated, or attempted, been the moft abhorred by the whole nation, of any defign that could be mentioned ; and yet it appears it had even fo early entered into the hearts of fome defperate perfons j that gen- tleman being at that time poffeffed of a very great fortune, and having great credit in his country*." When the temper of the times enabled him to difclofe his fentimcnts with lefs reftraint, Marten added difdain and infult to hatred of royalty. At Long- worth he tore in pieces, with his own hands, the king's commiffion of array; " Being authorized by parliament, about 1642," to ufe the expreffionsof Anthony Wood, " he forced open a great iron cheft, within the college of Weftminfler, and thence took out the crown, robes, fword, and fceptre belonging anciently to king Edward the Confeffor, and ufed by all our kings at their inaugurations ; and with a fcorn, greater than his lufts and the reft of his vices, 'he openly declared that there fhould be no further ufe of thefe toyes and trifles, &c. and in the jollity of that humour he inverted George Wither (an old puritan fatyrift) in the royal habiliments ; who being crowned and royally arrayed (as well right became him) did firft march about the room, with a ftately garb, and afterwards with a thoufand apifh and ridiculous actions expofed thofe facred ornaments to con- ■ tempt arid laughter He » Life of Clarendon, vol. i. p. 1 1. f Wood's Athcn. Oxon. vol.ii.p. 660. Jiardma Pub */Mcuf. 7800. by Cadett &Da vi-es Strand' ANECDOTES OF H. MARTEN. 381 He afterwards fpoke warmly in defence of a puritanical clergyman, named Sak .narih ; who in a publication, among other virulent expreflions, declared that if the king would not grant the demands of the people, he and the royal line mould be rooted out, and the crown conferred on fome other perfon. This ob- noxious book being laid before the houfe, and a propofal made to punifh the author, Marten faid, he faw no reafon to condemn Mr. Saltmarfh, for it was better that one family fliould be deftroyed than many ; being required to explain his meaning, he replied, " the king and his children." Thefe violent expreflions routing the indignation of the houfe, he was expelled and fent to the Tower ; but in a few months the republican fpirit gained fo much ground, that his friends without difficulty obtained the reverfal of his expulfion. He was at this period held in high eftimation by his party ; his averfion to monarchy, his freedom in declaring his republican fentiments, and his recent fuffenngs in the caufe of democracy, increafed his popularity. His convivial manners and facetious dilcourfe, rendered him agreeable to perfons of all defcrip- tions ; he performed the moll effential fervice to the parliament by his eloquence, his writings, and his fword, was fo much favoured, that even the arreft of one of his menial fervants was highly refented, and, as his biographer obferves, " he was more inviolable than his fovereign*." When the parliament appointed a committee to receive contributions, and enlift troops againft the king, he warmly exerted himfelf in recommending this meafure to the city of London, and concluded a virulent fpeech, which he madE TOY 1 £arhair or water gripe s 1 ait Gh' IX QIE KJV OWS H OW SO ON T O BE BY TTST fTERKE 1 ,'vEADER IF YOU AM OFT TRAD RVLETgpSgj \ I YOVA5D XOAT ( J c ( n1) DEATHS MA" PAY JpllOWELCOAE TO) f JuEVENGE I) ES I ROA'JNG BA r T IT SELF W F " Stay here," he faid to Knowles, " I will crofs the river in that boat, and examine whether the objects I want to fhew can be feen from hence." Defcending haftily, he hailed the watermen, leaped into the boat, was ferried over, and on his return entered into converfation with the men, and enquired their names and condition. " My name," faid one of them, " is * * * * * I am a native of Chepftow ; and that man," pointing to his companion, " is William Walters." — " What, Walters of Piercefield ? " exclaimed Morris. " Yes, pleafe your honour, I am the brother of John who fold the eftate which you now enjoy." Morris made no reply j but giving a gratuity to each of the men, leaped on more, rapidly afcended the hill, and * Biographical anecdotes of Valentine Morris, Gent. Mag. for Sept. i?8g. P I E R C E F I E L D, 397 ahd rejoining Knowles, cried, " I have been talking with Walters;" taking out feveral guineas, he added, " carry thefe to him, and tell him that he fhall never want while it is in my power to affift him." Knowles fuggefted, that as the man was much addi&ed to liquor, he would render him more fervice by a weekly al- lowance. The next market day one of Morris's fervants carried to Walters a joint of meat, and a fmall turn of money, which were continued weekly until his death. Morris defrayed the expences of his funeral, and his carriage conveyed the corpfe to St. Arvan's, where it was interred in the family vault. In 1784, Piercefield was bought by George Smith, efq. of Burnhall in the county of Durham, and in 1 794 by the prefent proprietor colonel Wood, formerly chief engineer of Bengal, and member of parliament for Newark. Colonel Wood has increafed the property by different purchafes in the vicinity, particularly part of the peninfula of Lancaut ; the whole confiding of not lefs than three thoufand acres, of which a confiderable portion is woodland ; the timber alone on the eftate of Piercefield was eftimated at £. 8,000. He has likewife con- fiderably improved the place, and reflored many of the walks, which were choked with underwood, to their former beauty under Valentine Morris. A new lodge of freeftone, with an iron gate and palifados, leads from the high road into the park ; and the approach to the houfe is conducted with great tafte under the direction of Mr. Meickle. In paffing through the grounds the eye is charmed with the diverfity of fcenery; hill and dale, woodlands and lawns, ve- nerable groves of oak, elm, beech, and chefnut, ftupendous rocks crowned with ivy and underwood, form a ftriking affemblage, and prepare the traveller for the beauties of Piercefield. The houfe is a magnificent building of freeftone, feated nearly in the center of the park, and furrounded by lawns and open groves of wide fpreading oak beech and elm. It ftands on an elevation of ground that Hopes gently to the banks of the Wy, and commands a diftant and delightful view over the broad Severn and the red cliffs of Auft, backed by the fertile hills of Glocefterfhire ; oppofite ap- pear the white rocks of Lancaut, which here lofe their rugged form and harmo- nife with the furrounding fcenery ; beneath the caflle and town of Chepftow pre- fent 39 8 CHAPTER 40. fcnt themfelves to fingular advantage, and the Wy fweeps in grand curves among rocks and woods, until it falls into the Severn. The houfc in which Valentine Morris refided was partly pulled down by Mr. Smith, and a new edifice begun, of which the fkeleton was nearly finifhed when the place was purchafed by the prefent proprietor. Colonel Wood removed the old part of the building, and confiderably extended and improved the plan; he added a doric portico, and handfome wings in the fame ftyle of architecture, which are ornamented with ftatues, and enriched with balTo relievos, from the ddigns of the firft artifts. The interior diftribution of the principal apartments is excellent, equally cal- culated for private comfort or public fplendor. The faloon or entrance is an oblong octagon, with a mofaic pavement of Painfwick ftone and black marble ; it is decorated with beautiful verd antique fcalioli pilaflers, and leads to the grand ftaircafe, through a porch with verd antique columns, fupporting a fan- light of painted glafs executed with considerable tafte. This porch is clofed by folding doors of looking glafs, in which the reflection of the diverfified prof- pect from the front of the houfe forms a pleafmg deception. On each fide of the faloon are the withdrawing and dining rooms, finilhed and furniflied in an elegant and coftly flyle, and adorned with Corinthian pilaflers of Egyptian marble, and fculptures, and alto relievos by the befl mafters. Thefe apartments are connected with the breakfaft and billiard rooms, and lead through a confervatory on each fide to the library and mufic room, which form the ground floor of the wings. The perfpective of this fuite, even in its prefent unfinifhed ftate, attracts particular notice i and when the confervatories are filled with rare and beautiful plants, will be inexpreflibly ftriking. The grand ftaircafe is of Painfwick ftone, and rifes by three flights of fteps to a gallery, which forms the principal communication with the bed-chambers. The fides of this gallery are hung with four exquifite pieces of gobeline tapeftry, fixteen feet by fourteen, which belonged to Louis the fixteenth. They exhibit the natural hiftory of Africa, and reprefent every production of the animal and vegetable kingdoms, grouped with admirable tafte and fcience, and uniting cor- rectncf s of defign with richnefs and beauty of colouring. PIERCEFIELD. 399 The prefent proprietor has fpared no expence to render the manfion of Piercefield fuitable to the grandeur and beauty of the furrounding fcenery : all the apartments unite harmony of proportion with cofllinefs of decora- tion, and Piercefield fcarcely yields to any houfe in this kingdom in tafte and fplendor. Although, in confcquence of a kind and hofpitable reception by colonel Wood, I had an opportunity to examine at my leifure the grounds of Piercefield, I feel it extremely difficult to give an adequate defcription of this enchanting fpot, where nature wantons in fuch variety, and combines fo great a portion of the beautiful, the picturelque, and the fublime. - The grounds occupy an extenfive fpace, fhretching between the road and the Wy, from Wynd Cliff to the caftle of Chepftow j and the walk leading from one extremity to the other, is fcarcely lefs than three miles in length. In the compofition of the fcenery, the meandring Wy, the fteep cliffs, and the fertile peninfula of Lancaut, form the ftriking characteriftics. The Wy, which is every where feen from a great elevation, paffes between Wynd Cliff and the Banagor rocks, winds round the peninfula of Lancaut, under a femicircular chain of ftupendous cliffs, is loft in its finuous courfe, again appears in a ftraighter line at the foot of the Lancaut rocks, and flows under the majeftic ruins of Chepftow caftle *, towards the Severn. The rocks are broken into an infinite variety of fantaftic fhapes, and fcattered at different heights and in different pofitions ; they ftart abruptly from the river, fwell into gentle acclivities, or hang on the fummits of the hills ; here they form a perpendicular rampart, there jet into enormous projections, and impend over the water. But their dizzy heights and abrupt precipices are foftened by the woods, which form a no lefs confpicuous feature in the romantic fcenery ; they are not meagre plantations placed by art, but a trad of forefts fcattered by the hand • To view thefe delightful fcenes in full perfec- grounds, and defcend from the Lover's Leap to the tion, the traveller ought to vifit the place at high tide, alcove, by which he will enjoy the whole fcenery in when the river is full ; he mould pafs through the proper fuccelnon, and to the greateft advantage, village of St. Arvan's, to the upper part of the 4 oo CHAPTER 40, lund of nature. In one place they expand into open groves of large ©ak, elm, and beech ; in another form a made of timber trees, copfes, and un- derwood, hiding all external objects, and wholly impervious to the rays of the fun ; they ftart from the crevices of the rocks, feather their edges, crown their fummits, clothe their fides, and fill the intermediate hollows with a luxuriant mafs of foliage, bringing to recollection Milton's defcription of the border " Of Eden, where delicious paradife, *" Now nearer, crowns with her inclofure green, " As with a rural mound, the champain head " Of a fteep wildernefs, whofe hairy fides " With thicket overgrown, grotefque and wild, " Accefs deny'd, and over head up grew £ ' Infuperable height of loftieft fhade, " A fylvan fcene, and as the ranks afcend " Shade above made, a woody theatre " Of ftatelieft view *." The peninfula of Lancaut, on the oppofite bank, in the midft of thefe impend- ing rocks, and hanging woods, is a farm in the higheft date of cultivation. The ground fwells gradually from the edge of -the water towards the ifthmus, on which flands the farm-houfe, backed by rugged rocks; open groves and fingle trees are fcattered over the meadows and corn fields, and the margin of the river is fkirted with a mantle of verdure, and fringed with a range of fine elms. On entering the grounds at the extremity of the village of St. Arvan's, and at the bottom of Wynd Cliff, the walk leads through plantations, commanding on the right a diflant view of the Severn and the furrounding country; it pe- netrates into a thick forefl, and conducts to the Lover's Leap, where the Wynd Cliff is feen towering above the river in all its height and beauty, and below yawns a deep and wooded abyfs. It waves almoft imperceptibly in a grand out- line, •» Paradife Loft, b.iv.l. 13a,— 14*. PIERCEFIELD, line, on the brow of the majeftic amphitheatre of cliffs impending over the Wy., oppofite to thepeninfula of Lincaut, then croffes the park, runs through groves and thickets, and again joins the bank of the Wy, at that reach of the river which ftretches from Lancaut to the caftle of Chepftow. From the Lover's Leap the walk is carried through a thick mantle of forefts, with occafional open.ngs, which feem not the refult of art or defign, but the effect of chance or nature, and feats placed where the fpeclator may repofe and view at leifure the fcenery above, beneath, and around *. This *' bowr'y walk " Of covert clofe, where fcarce a fpeck of day " Falls on the lengthen'd gloom is confonant to the genius of Piercefield ; the fcreen of wood prevents the uni- formity of a bird's eye view, and the imperceptible bend of the amphitheatre conveys the fpectator from one part of this fairy region to another without dif- covering the gradations. Hence the Wy is fometimes concealed or half ob- fcured by overhanging foliage, at others, wholly expanding to view, is feen fweeping beneath in abroad and circuitous channel; hence at one place the Severn fpreads in the midft of a boundlefs expanfe of country, and on the oppo- fite fide to the Wy ; at another, both rivers appear on the fame fide, and the Severn feems fupported on the level fummit of the cliffs which form the banks of * Thefe views, the beauties of which I fhall not attempt todeicnbe, are i. The Lover's Leap. a. A Seat nsar two beeches on the edge of the precipice. 3 The Giant's Cave, which occupies the center of the am- phitheatre, and overlooks Lancaut paiinfula. 4. The Half-way Seat under a large beech tree. 5. The double view. 6. Above Pierce-wood. 7. The Grotto. 3. The Platform. 9. The Alcove. A part of the grounds not ufujlly vifited, is how- ever worthy the notice of the piclurefque traveller. From the Giant's Cave, a road winds beautifully along the brow of the cliff to a grove of lofty oak, beech and fycamore, wholly cleared from underwood, in the cen- ter of the extenfive forefl; which fpreads beneath the Lover's Leap. In this charming and fequeltered fpot is a cold bath, fupplied by a copious and tranfparent rill, which fprings at the foot of the Wynd Cliff, and ripples down the fide of the declivity. The road then defcends to Marhidge meadow, on the bank of the Wy, where the river appears like a lake, and the fertile peninfula of Lancaut rifes in a gentle ac- clivity from the nia r gin of the Itream to the ilihmus. A beautiful walk two miles in length ikirts this meadow, at the foot of the ftupendous range of Piercefield Cliffs, and then mounts to the houfe by fleps cut in a lleep rock. As the houfe Hands feveral hundred feet above the river, the afcent is long and difficult ; but the toil is amply repaid by the beauty and fublimity of the lcenes. f Thomfon. 4 o2 CHAPTER 40. of the Wy. Hence the fame objects prefent themfelves in different afpects and with varied accompaniments ; hence the magic tranfition from the impervious gloom of the forefts to open groves ; from meadows and lawns, to rocks and pre- cipices, and from the mild beauties of Englifli landfcape to the wildnefs of Alpine fcenery. The fummit of Wynd Cliff, which towers above the northern extremity of the grounds, commands in one point of view the whole extent of this interefting fcenery. As I flood on the brow of this precipice, I looked down upon the fer- tile peninfula of Lancaut, furrounded with rocks and forefts, contemplated the hanging woods, rich lawns, and romantic cliffs of Piercefield, the cattle and town of Chepftow, and traced the Wy, fweeping in the true outline of beauty, from the Banagor crags to its junction with the Severn, which fpreads into an se Hilary and is loft in the diftant ocean. A boundlefs extent of country is feen in every direction from this command- ing eminence, comprehending not lefs than nine counties : in the midft of this expanfe, I principally directed my attention to the fubject of my Tour, which now drew to a conclufion ; I traced with pleafing fatisfaction, not un- mixed with regret, the luxuriant vallies, and romantic hills of this interefting county, which I had traverled in various directions ; but I dwelt with peculiar admiration on the majeftic rampart which forms its boundary to the weft, and extends in one grand and broken outline, from the banks of the Severn to the Black mountains, " where the broken landfcape, by degrees " Afcending, roughens into rigid hills ; " O'er which the cambrian mountains, like far clouds " That fkirt the blue horifon, duiky rife." Thomson's Spring. [ 4°3 3 APPENDIX. 3 F 2 [ 4°5 3 A P P E N D I X.— N° i. Letter from Mr. Owen, Author of the Welfli and Engtifli Ditlionary * ; containing Remarks on the 'SiruRure of the Welfli Language, and on the Char abler flics of the Gwentian Dialetl ; accompanied with two Odes. TH E Welrti tongue being (till prevalent in the county of Monmouth, I am anxious that you ftiould inform tlie world of its true character, and that it is not a rough and unpolifhed jargon. I take the liberty there/ore of exhibiting to you fome of its proniinent features. Having already be- ftowed the labour of upwards of fifteen years in forming a dictionary of this language f, lam in- duced to hope that credit may be given to my ftatement. The STRUCTURE of the WELSH LANGUAGE. There are nearly three hundred poffible founds, or articulations. Thefe, with the exception of about forty, are prderved, form the bafis of the Welfli tongue, and denote refpectively fome Ample or abftracf. idea. From thefe radical founds all compound word; are regularly derived, and confequenfly every component part of long words has an independent fignification. If the fmall number of fimple founds which I have mentioned to be wanting, were recovered and brought into ufe, the refult would be, that no articulation could be uttered, which had not fome meaning attached to it in tnis tongue. COPIOUSNESS of EXPRESSION. The late Lewis Morris ventured to affert, that the Welfli is more copious than any other four languages united. I am fully fatisfied that he has not over-rated its copioufnefs ; and that it would not be difficult to convince Grangers of the truth of the petition ; but I fliall here merely point out the primary fource of fuch a compafs of fpeech. Compound words may be formed from the radical founds, without any other limit than fuch as may arife from the abfurdity or contrariety of ideas, forbidding their con neclion. Another characlenftic of the language is, that all the prefixes and terminations of words are univerfal in their application, and the multiplicity of fuch prefixes and tetminations may be learnt from the following table. Number of prefixes ----- 64. Terminations of Plural Nouns - - 19. Terminations of Nouns - - - - 58. Plural Diminutives ------ 5. of Adjectives - - - 21. Singular Noun Diminutives - - - 6. of Infinitive Verbs - - 10. A fimple * This afronifhing work, formed by the labour of one man, Cannot be too ftrongly recommended to the patrons and lovers of philology. It elucidates the laws, hiftory, poetry, antiquities and learning of the ancient Britons; is accompanied with numerous quotations from their bed writers, and will contain the enormous number of 75,000 words more than any VVelfh dictionary yet extant. It is publifhed in parts, and the fourth, which has been recently given ro the public, includes the letter I. But this work is only part of a grand and extenfive plan. " The dictionary," obferves the learned author, in a letter lately received, " 1 confider as part only of a work of great extent, intended as a proof that all the languages of Eur pe are defcended from an original language. In developing the fubject, one volume will contain the Englifh words, and another the French words derived from the Welfh 5 there will be alfo two other comparative vocabularies, one with the Greek, and the other with the Latin. With refpeft to the Engli/h, under the letter B. for inftance, I have rejected a 1 the words ob- vioufly borrowed from known languages ; the refult has left between 1,500 and 1,600 words, about 900 of which have been fuppofed to be Saxon, and the reft ftand in the dictionaries as derived from the Welih, and unaccounted for ; but of thefe I (hall prove about 800 to be Saxon, and 700 and upwards to be Welfh. •}• One inducement for undertaking this work was, becaufe there was no dictionary extant which contained more than about fifteen thousand words of the language. The prefent work comprifes about one hundred thoufand words 5 and muft ftill be confidered merely as a collected fpecimen of woid* ufed, and not as the compafs of the language. A P P E N D I X — N« r. A fimple verb is cnpablc of being exprefled in five different ways, or by fo many conjugations; to which nineteen different prefixes may be put to modify its meaning: for inftance, any verb may be made reciprocal or reflective, by prerixing_y»2 to it. Examples : Uno, to unite, Ymutio, to unite one's felf, to become united. Gtveled, to fee, Tmwckii, to fee one another. Rliyymu-elsynt, they had before feen each other. To the verb Brhuo, to break into particles, to fpray— there are three prefixes, where it is ufed in the following line — " Dyfymmrhv ton amli-a) am fan" Casnodyn of Gwent. The various- tinted wave ivillbe /praying itftlf about the fhore. By computing the number of fimple verbs at about 10,000, ir follows, from the above-mentioned combinations, that we can, including the fimple and compound, employ upwards of a million of verbs. If we multiply a million by the number of inflections which take place in the various modes and tenfes, the aftonifhing compafs of verbal exprefiions in this language will appear. The GRAMMAR. It is a principal excellence of the Welfli, that its grammar is more concife and regular, perhaps, than that of any other language. Its proper alphabet, preferved in the bardic inftitutes, is formed upon univerfal principles, and confifts of fixteen radical letters, of which four are vowels, and the other twelve confonants, arranged in order according to their connection with each other. Both thefe claffes cf letters have certain modifications of forms, which may be called fecondary letters, to denote the founds, into which feveral of the radical powers are fufceptible of changing under their various com- binations. But unfortunately, by writing the Welfh language in Roman characters, this unity of fyftero is deftroyed, and many irregularities arife from the want of a fufficient number of proper figns. A variety of methods, therefore, have been reforted to at different periods, to reprefent powers for which no letters could be found in the adopted alphabet. With the inconveniency of a foreign al- phabet we may ft ill boaft of advantages ; for, whatever figns are ufed, every letter retains one uniform and proper found, without the leaft deviation; a knowledge of the alphabet alfo is all the inftruction neceflary towards reading the language ; and the greateft merit is, that the alphabet is our perfect ftandard of pronunciation. Is the WELSH an HARMONIOUS LANGUAGE? This is a queftion, which ftrangers have habitually decided in the negative ; adding likewife, that it is overloaded with confonants. With a view to afcertain the truth of this objection, I endeavoured to calculate the proportion of vowels and confonants in various languages. The refult, with regard to the Welfh, was, that upon an average, for one hundred confonants it had the like number of vowels; in the Greek, the proportion was ninety five vowels for a hundred confonants ; then in order followed the Italian, Spanifl), Latin, and French; afterwards the Englifh ; German and Dutch, nearly equal; but the greateft drfparity appeared in the Dutch. In regard to the harmony of the Welfh tongue, a frn.nger to its orthography cannot judge from books ; but if I were to feledt fuch phrafes as are written in characters familiar to him, it would be difficult to draw expreffions equally fmooth from other languages. Examples: Na foma vi -> Na fonia. Do not mention. Nam foma I Od ei yno. If thou wilt go there. Paid a vy fomi V Do not difappoint me. Cei felu. Thou fhalt behold. Na foma monov ( Ni feli vi ~) Nawnavyfomi J Nim feli C ti. it. . u t u Pam nas tali imi I Why doft thou not pay to me ? Ni feli monov f 1 hou v/lIt not behold me * Poni weli ? Why doft thou not fee? Ni wnei vy felu ' O daioni ? Oh goodnefs A felo. That fliall behold. 8 Ear ON THE WELSH LANGUAGE. Er a well. For what thou flialt lee. Deua yma rai troion. Come here fometimes. Pan diriono hinon. When the weather fhall be- come pleafant. " Pan gano ednan larian lais." When the bird of melodious note {hall fing. Pan ranoduw. When God diftributes. Ni rani mono. Thou wilt not diftribute it. Y dyn a elo. The man who mall go. Pe delit yno. If thou wert to come there. Os taranai. If it fliould thunder. Oni feli. Unlels thou wilt behold. " Car ni reto vry a red obry." The carriage that will not run up will run down. Buafai da itti. It had been well for thee. Os ni rani dy olud. If thou wilt not diftribute thy wealth. O tarana. If it will thunder. Na neidia arno, Do not jump upon it. Synia y plantos yna fy yn truanu. Confider thofe little children who are becoming wretched. DIALECTS of the WELSH, particularly the GWENTIAN. There are three principal dialects ; the Gwynedian, prevailing in North Wales; the Dyvedian, in the weftern parts of South Wales ; and the Gwentian, fpoken in the eaftern parts of the fame country, or rather Glamorganfliire and Monmouthfhire. We have many manufcripts proving thefe dialects to have been the fame upwards of fix centuries ago as they now are, and confined to the fame dis- tricts ; hence we may infer their exiftence in the fame ftate foi many ages. I fliall pafs over the other dialects of the Welfli, and confine my remarks to the Gwentian, which is ufed in the county under your difcuffion. The general character of this dialed is a majeftic fimplicity, the expreflions being always full, and free from contractions. Some of the general differences between it and the Gwynedian are exhibited in the following examples : Gwentian. Gwynedian. A wnaeth - That he did. Yr oez - There was. Allan - Out. A orug, Yd oez, Maes, Dynon, Dynion - Men. Gwentian. Gwynedian. Oc ei ben, O'i ben - Out of his head. Izei ben, I'w ben - Into his head. Dothoezynt, Daethynt - They had come. Arnazynt, Arnynt - Upon them. And the general ufe of a for it in verb and plural endings. Tano, Tanio - To fire. The greater number of our old chronicles are written in the Gwentian dialect ; and much of the poetry of the ancients bears the fame character. There was a celebrated poet of Gwent, named Casnodyn, -who flouriflied in the commencement of the fourteenth century, and whole works may be decied the laft of the ancient claffics of Siluria. I have felected the following ode, chiefly for its brevity, and accompanied it with a literal tranflation ; it is addreffed to a lady called Gwenllia n, the meaning of which name is, One that is white as the torrent foam ; and this is neceffary to be known, as the poet plays upon the epithet, by drawing from it molt of his comparifons. This Ode is fo extremely com- plicated and artful in its conftrudtion, that it would be a fruitlefs attempt, 1 believe, to imitate it in any other language. Every line ends in eg ; but they are all unaccented fyllables except four, and confe-* quently have not the jingle of full rhyme; they are alfo overpowered by the accented concatenation of other founds, in different parts of the verfes, in fuch a manner, that an incorrect ear might almofi; mifs their exiftence in the compofition. AWDYL a gant CASNODYN i WEN- LLIANT, merg Cynan ab Mereduz ab Rhys ab Gritfuz ab yr arglivyz Rhys : Gwraic fyr Grufuz Llwyd ab Rliys ab Ednyved Vyqan. Aelaw iawn yw dawn gne gwawn gnawd-^weg, Eiliw ewynvriw gwymviw gwaneg, Eiliais erod glod, gloewdeg Wenlliant : Eiliant dy voliant vil ec.waneg. An ODE sung by CASNODYN to GWEN- LI ANT, the daughter of Conan fon of Mere dud fon of Rhys fon of Grufud fon of the lord Rhys : fie was the wife of Jir Grufud Lwyd fon of Rhys fon of EdnyVcd fycan. Tranfcendent in virtue, whofe foft fkin, of gof- famer delicacy, is of the hue of the purely white fpraying foam of the wave, thy fame has been the fubject of my lay, Gwf.nliant fprightly and fair ; a thoufand more will fing thy praife. Elw APPENDI X.— X» I. Though I anxioufly feek the object of my wifh, not a glance of the angel pretence, high towering in renown, fhail I have in a day nor in twelve : my craving hope like the gairifl) thiftle diwn, pri- vileged with wings floats in an airy courfeof wide extended light. Palfion has been a ftinp. won ding to punifli weaknefs: a token without tulhlme..t, lightly palTes away on the fleep-obftructing form, i"o fprightly, feeming as a white ftteam of the rock, when the impending furge throws a mantle over the {tone. Difcreet of word and w ithout a fault, ban fhino the wavering fentiment, I ; m ever without an al- fignation for the longed intercourfe: fine g~l d has been my recompence for the pain of the torment of delay, which my hands received with diffident wiftfulnefs, from a fecond Indeg *. Beauteous daughter of Conan ! difpenfe the hundred gifts of the eagle of the land of men ; of heroes free from Saxon fpeech ! a prof peri ng lord, like a liberal Grecian fage, eloquent and energetic. — Releafe from chains a comely chief 1 I am matter of the lucid words of modeft Gwy- nedian language; I am competent to celebrate the progeny of a prince of bounteous gift : far-dif- tant will fame be wafted by the power of words ; fo unrefhained my mufe in Gwentian fong. The flender and elegant damfel, from whofe lips Welfh fo purely flows; the kind fleep-depriving maid, caufing health-wearing anguifh, a m\riad will praife her without ceafing in undebafed words, foft and pure, which in recital fhall greatly blefs the courfe of life. May then the panegyric lay make imprefilon on her, who is of the hue of the hoarfelv-clamoring wave of Man aw, azure-mantled and of fullendin, which often, to where the bright green fm'les, wafts me on mighty courfe, gloomy and fevere : Haftening to view how glorious the path of the luminary of Arvon, caufing anxieties to the mind; the queen of the {lone-built callle, the far- famed ample place of refort to a fplendid throne : the flender and gentle maid of Dinopweg ! In confequence of the overthrow of the Welfh government, by the conqueft of Edward I. a great revolution took place in their poetry as well as in the mode of verification ; the follow ing poem is a fpecimcn of a tafte which became prevalent with refpect to both. It is extracted from the works of David ab Gzuilym, page 524. f. The author, who is generally (tiled the Welfh Ovid, flovniflied about the middle of the fourteenth century, under the peculiar patronage of Ivor the Gmerous, an anctftor of the Tu.kgar family \. The love of David ab Gwilym to a lady of the name of Morwd bears a fimilitude to I lw dreiziaw, nim daw traw, trwy gyfleg, EIwvz twv ciodryz, dyz na deuzeg: Ed cain galled rhed ym reidreg o'oaith, Oieuvukh hoeu'daith, vraint ehedeg. Arial bu gethal briw zial breg: Arwyz dietlwyz rwyz vo yn rhedeg Ar hoe.vlun luz hun, hoen gwen-waneg maen, Pan u ifg ton vrwyfgvlaen gaen am gareg Eirgall ziwall, ball bwyll ogywrg, Eirioed yn zioed hoed gyhydreg: Eur iral a'm bu dal dolur attreg vraw, Yn Haw h yl andaw, gan ail Indeg Eirian verc Cynan ! cynran canreg Eryr tymh\ r gwyr ; gweile difaefneg ! Arglwyz culwyz, rhwyz rwy v Groeg, rugylcwyrn : Ellwng o heiyrn y teyrn teg ! Mau geiriau golau gwyl Wvndodeg; Mi a wyr moli hti rhj hael reg : Meithir y cludir clod anreg tavawd ; Mor zidlawd vy ngwawdyn Ngwenhwyfeg. Main virain riain, gain Gymraeg; Mwyn vorwyn hunzwyn, hoenzygyn gyfleg, Myrz ai mawl, heb dawl, dilezyv, !acr.s» 3 G 1 4io A P P E N D I X.— N° i» Haelioni cun, heilwin coez. Ei gvvelir vyth, dcg lawr van, Yn llwynaiz gan berllanau ; Llawn adar a gar y gwyz A dail a bl.odau dolyz ; Coed ofglog ; caeau difglair; Wyth ryw yd, a thri o vvair ; Perlawr parlas mewn glas glog, Yn llanaiz a meillionog. Yno mae gwyjioh vonez A da! ym aur mal a mez ; Ac ami gor y cerzorion, A ganant a thant a thon : Ymborth, amred i'r gwledyz, A darz o lioni bob dyz; A'i blith, a' i gwenith ar goez, Yn doraeth i'r holl diroez ; Morgamvg, yn mrig ynys, A bvrth bob man, llan a llys. O'th gav, yr Hav, i'th awr harz, A'th geindu v, a'th egindarz ; Dy hinon yn dirion dwg Aur-genad i Vorganvvg. Tefog vore, gwna'r lle'n lion ; Ag anerc y tai gwynion Rhodwv, rho gynnhwv gwanwyn; A 9ynnull dy wull i dwyn ; Tywyna'n val9 ar gale gaer Yn luglavvn, yn oleuglaer ; Dod yno 'n y vro dy vrifg, Yn wyrain bawr, yn irwifg ; Ysgwyd lwyth o ber-frwythyz Yn rail gwrs ar hyd ei gwyz ; Rho'th gnvvd val frvvd ar bob frith A'r gweunyz, a'r tir gwenith ? Gwil'g berllan, gwinllan, a garz, A'th lawnder, a'th frwythlawndarz : Gwafgar hyd ei daiar deg Gu nodau dy gain adeg ! Ac y'nghy vnod dy vlodau, A'r miwail vrig tewzail tan, Cafglav y rhos o'r clofyz ; Gwull dolau, a gemau gwyz ; Hoew veillion, dillynion Uawr A glwyfbert flur y glalbawr l'w rhoi'n gov aur-enwog ior, Uvyz wy v, ar vez Ivor ! * It is particularly famous for dairies and excellent wheat. -f The practice of whitewaming is to this day a diftinguilh- ing characteristic in Monmouthfhire and Glamorganfhire. J From this pathetic tranfition, with which the poem clofes, we learn that Ivor Had, or Ivor the generous, was dead abounding with birds who love the woods, leaves and flowers of the dales ; there the branc hing trees ; the Aiming fields ; eight forts of grain, and three of hay ; a pleafant fward of perennial frefhnefs in a mantle of green, expanding and covered with trefoil. Splendid nobles are there, who reward me with fine gold and mead ; and there the fre- quent bands of fongfters who tune the firing and voice : Plenty diffufive through the countries, daily pours from thence ; and its dairy, and its wheat a public provifion for the diftant lands*; Morganoc, in the fkirt of an ifle, feeds every place, the country and the court. If I obtain thee, O Summer, in thy fp'endiu hour, with thy fair growth and thy (hooting gems ; thy ferenity pleafantly bear, thou golden meflen- ger, to Morganoc. With fun-fhine morn gladden thou the place ; and greet the whitened houfes f ; give growth, give the firft fruits of the fpring, and collect thy bloffoms to the bufh ; fhine proudly on the wall of lime, full of light and gayly bright ; leave there in the vale thy footileps, in juicy herbage, in frefh attire; diffufe a load of delicious fruits, in bounteous courfe among its woods ; give thy crop like a ftream over every lawn, the meadows and the land of wheat ; clothe the or- chard, the vineyard, and the garden, with thy abundance and thy teeming Iiarvefl : Scatter over its fair foil the lovely marks of thy glorious courfe ! And, Oh! whilftthy feaion of flowers, and thy tender fprays thick of leaves remain ; I will pluck the rofes from the brakes ; the flowerets of the meads, and gems of the woods ; the vivid trefoils, beauties of the ground, and the gaily-fmiling bloom of the verdant herbs, to be offered to the memory of a chief of faireft fame: Humbly I will lay them on the grave of Ivor % ! when it was compofed, that is in 1346, the year of the battle of Crefly. The practice of planting flowers and aromatic herbs on the graves of deceafed friends is ftill prevalent in Glamorganfhire. A border of ftones is generally made round the grave, which is periodically whitewaflied. [ 4ii J A P P E N D I X.— N* 2. Th e ancient Kingdom of Mo r g a n o c , o S i l c r i a, was of much greater Extent than the prefent County of the fame Name ', it huh the Englift call Glamorganshire ; but its Limits varied in different Periods ; for there was a Time when the Severn formed its Boundary up to Glocefter ; however > i he prefent Counties of Glamorgan and Mon- mouth may be confidered as the common Extent o/Siluria; w the Reader will find illufi rated in a curious piece of Hifiory, extracled from the Myvyrian Arche- ology of Wales, vol. z *, communicated by Mr. Owen. SAITH CANTREV MORGANUC CuTA ClVARUlT. oc e Guibeted pobyl Breteinieid, paniu faith Can- trev effit e Morganuc, eni argluitiaeth ai efcob- aeth. E. cintav iu cCantrev BiCHANjerail Cantrev iuGuiR a Chedueli ' tridet iu Gorenit ; ped- uerit iu Cantrev Penuchen; pummed iu Guaenlluc ac Edt. ligion; e ueched cantrev iu Gu en r-is-CoED ; e feithved cantrev iu Guent-uch-Coed, Estrad Evv, ac Euas: er rai a eluid en dui laues Guent-uch-Coed : ac hevid Erging ac Anergi.vg, mal i mae e cubil tervineu en Lkver Teilo. Pan etoet Edgar vrenin en Lloegir, a Hoivel Da vab Cadell deuifauc D'icubarth Cimru : fev oet heni e dridet dalaith, et oet i Korgan Hen. oil Vor- ganuc en tangnevetus, hit pan geifioet Hozvel Da i dreiliau am Estrad Ew ac Euas. Pan olebu Edgar heni, ev a devenoet ato Howel Da, a Morgan Hm. ac Ezvein ei vab it ei lys ev in Liun.lun. Ac ev a orandeuis eftir eremrifon a oet retunt. Sev a dervinuid, trui givreithlaun varn i ivs, paniu Howel Da a dreifioet en andledus, trui gamuet, Morgan Hen. ac Eioeinei vab; ac am heni divreiniau Hoioel Da a orugant o Estrad Ew ac •Euas en dragiuit. * The Archseology above referred to, Is a work the two firft volumes of which are now printing, and therefore not yet b;fore the public. The firft volume contains all that re- mains of the Welfh poetry, from the remoteft period to the dofe of the thirteenth century. The contents of the fecond volume are ancient chronicles, traces, and hiftorical documents. Other volume will follow, to include what is moft important and worthy of prefervation in the old Welflj manufcripts. THE SEVEN HUNDREDS OF MOR- GAN OC : out of the Breviary of In- telligence. Be it known to the Britifli people, that there are feven hundreds in Morganoc, within its lordfliipand bifhoprick. The firft is the Cantrev Byehan ; the fecond is Gozuer and Kedweli; the third is Gorenid ; the fourthis Cantrev Penuchcn ; the fifth lsGwaetuuc and Edeligion ; the fixth hundred is Gtvcnt-under-Wood ; the feventh hundred is Gzueut-over-Wood, EJlrad £ to and Euas ; the which were called the two fkiits of Gvjent- ovcr-Wood ; and likewife Erging and Anerging, ac- cording as the whole limits are laid down in the Book of Teilo. When Edgar was king in England, and Howel the Good, fon of Cadell, was prince of the fouth dijlritt of Wales, that is to fay the third province, Morgan the Aged had peaceable poucluon of all Motganoe, until Howel the Good fought to deprive him of Ejlrad Ezo and Euas. When Edgar was informed of that affair, he fummoned Howel the Good, and Morgan the Aged with Owen his fon, to appear at his court in London. And he heard the nature of the difputej which fubfifted between them. Thereupon it was determined, by the lawful fentence of the court, thatHowEL the Good had ufurped without a right and unjuftly, from Morgan the Aged and Owen his fon ; and upon that account Howel the Good was deprived of the title to EJlrad Ew and Euas for ever. Ac The few, to whom this work is cftimable, owe its appearance to Mr. Owen yones, citizen of London, who has expended feveral hundred pounds on this occafion, who is generally known to his countrymen for fimilar deeds of exalted patriot- ifm ; and by them called Oiver. Myvy, from the name of his birth-placcin North Wales. Thole whim he has aftociated in the labour, wifhed to affix the nameof Mvvyr to a publica- tion, which future ages will confideras the Welfh daffies. 4ia APPENDI X,— N° 3 . Ac en ol heni Edgar vrenin a ganiataoet ac a roes i Eivtin vab Alciga>.t Hen. Est r ad Ew ac Euas, o veun efcobaeth Llamlav, a chadamau heni trui weithredot ■ o ac in etivedion vith, o getfen- edigaeth a tbefiiolaeth lioll archefcib, efcib, ieitll, a bariinl. id Lloegirz. C/iimru, dan roi eu meliiith ir neb a divreiniai bluiyTEllo ac a^gluidiaeth MoR.- gani'c or gukdit hiii : a lievid bendigedic vai ae caduai mal i delai en drsgiuit. Ar gueithred a wnaeth Edgar ar hin en trefordy Llanbav i mae engcadu. And afterwaris king Edgar granted and gave to Owen the fan of Morgan the Aged, Efirai Eta and Euas, within the bifl)oprick of Landav; and confirming that by a deed to him and to his heirs for ever, through the concurrence and teftimony of all thearchbifhoLs, bifhops, c.uls, and barons of England and Wales; laying their anathema on v. in > ever fhould deprive the fee of Teilo and the lordfhip of Morganoc of thefe countries; and alfo pronouncing as bleffed thofe who fljouid preferve them in their true title for ever. And the deed, which Edgar executed of this- matter, ispreferved in the treafury of Landav. APPENDI X.—N 0 3.. Addition to Chapter 5. O I N 7 C E my departure from Monmouthfhire, Mr. Evans vifited, at my requ?ft, the chain of en- i3 campments which occupies the fummit of the ridge commencing near Cat's a fh, and firelching to the Pencamawr, and which he fuppofes to have been the fite of a Britifli, or perhaps a Roman road, from the Julia Strata to Monmouth. This chain confifts of the camps of Coed y Caerau, Kemeys Folly, and Caerlicyn. T he encampment Coed y Caerau * is fituated about two miles and a half from Caerleon, and half a mile from the commencement of the afcent near Cat's afh, on the brow of the eminence overlook- ing the Ufk. It confifts of three circular camps, adjoining to and connected with each other, two of which are furounded with a double rampart. About half a mile farther, at Kemeys Folly, is an oblong encampment, nearly of a rectangular fliape, the weftern fide inclining to a curve ; the road palling through the weftern and eaftern fides, divides it nearly into two equal parts. Its form bears ftrong marks of a Roman character, and the diftance from Caerleon being only three miles, it might have been u fed for airing the troops, and for protecting the Roman road which ran beneath on the left bank of the Ufk. A quarter of a mile from Kemeys Folly, was Caerlicyn, a circular encampment, with a tumulus on its northern fide, and which might have been ufed as an exploratory camp, or for the purpofe of guarding cattle. This fafinefs is fuppofed to derive its name from Ly cyn, a Britifli chieftain, who ported himfelf on this fpot after the departure of the Romans. The pofition of thefe camps is very ftrong, and though confiderably elevated, they are fupplied with fprings of water. This chain of encampments was continued along the central parts of Monmouthfhire, from the Julia Stcata to Monmouth. Striguil caftle, which ftands in the fame line, was probably built on the fite of an ancient poft. Nearly in the center of this chain is the Gaer Vawr, or Great Encampment, which is fituated on the brow of an eminence above Wolves' Newton, between the Golden hill and the Devaudon, and is worthy of being vifited by the traveller for the beauty and extent of the profpecl. It isthelargeft en- campment in Monmouthfhire, was probably the fite of a Britifli town, and from the extraordinary height of the vallum and depth of the entrenchments, may have been occupied and ftrengthened by the Saxons during their predatory incurfions ; and its central pofition between Caerleon, Caerwent, Chep- ftow, Ufk, Raglan, and Trelech, rendered it a place of great importance. Not far from the Gaer Vawr, and near Wolves' Newton, is the fmall circular encampment of Cwrt y Gaer, which exhibits remains of walls and ramparts of ftone. Plans of thefe different en- campments are here annexed. * The Woods of the encampment. tiaer Tawr En-camfimen / [ 4'3 J A P P E N D I X.— N a 4. db/ira.7 of the Charter of Newport in the County cf Monmouth ; ( referred to in p. 46.^ Amount of Tonnage on the Monmouthjliire Canal, for One Year, commencing September 9, 1 798, *». Y a charier granted on the 20th day of September, in the 21ft year of the reign of king James 1, confirming former charters, grants, and prefcriptions, the Borough of Newport is' incor- porated by the name of " The mayor, aldermen, and burgefles of the Borough of Newport in the " County of Monmouth." And to have perpetual fuccefiion by the fame name, and thereby enabled arid capable in ihe law to have, pure hafe, and poffefs lands, tenements, liberties, &c. to them and their fucceflbts in fee, or for ever, or for years, &c. and to give, grant, demife, &c. and to plead and be impleaded, &c. as any other body corporate or politic may, and to have and ufe a common ftal for negotiating the eaufes and bufinefs thereof, See. To be governed by a mayor and twelve alder- men, who have power to make bye laws from time to time for the good order and government of the fame ; and to impofe punifhments and penalties, &c. by imprifonment or fines, &c. on offenders againft the fame. The mayor and aldermen, or the major part, of whom the mayor to be one, to affemble together on Monday next before Michaelmas yearly in the Guildhall, or any other conve- nient place within the borough, to name and return two of the aldermen to be prelenttd to the fiew- ardof the lord of the borough, who fiiall elect one of the two aldermen fo returned to be mayor, and fhall fwear him into office accordingly. In cafe of the death of the mayor, the major part of the aldermen may return two other aldermen, to be in nomination of mayor in like manner. Aldermen dying, to be replaced by the mayor and major part of the aldermen at any meeting,, out of the bur- gefles. Mayor or alderman, when duly apppointed as above, refufing to ferve or execute the office, to be fined in any fum not exceeding ten pounds, and may be committed to the borough prifon, there to remain until payment. The mayor and aldermen to chufe and appoint a recorder, who fhall continue in office during life, unlefs, &c. and who fhall by himfelf or his deputy be aflifting to the mayor and aldermen on all neceffary occafions, and who fliall be fworn to execute the office. The mayor, two fenior aldermen, and fteward, to be juilices of the peace within the borough; who fhall have power, or any two or more of them (of whom the mayor and fteward fliall be two) to hold and keep general feffions of the peace for punifhing offences committed within the borough, and to do and per- form all other judicial acts relating to a feffions of the peace. Any two of the faid juftices, of whom the mayor or fteward fliall be one, may commit offenders for treafon, murder, felony, or robbery, or fuf- picion thereof, to Monmouth goal, to be tried at the affizes. The mayor fliall appoint two bailiffs, &c. The mayor and aldermen exempt from ferving on juries out of the borough, unlefs they have lands or tenements without the fame to qualify them. No foreigner, unlefs a freeman, may fell or expofe to tale within the borough any wares or merchandize, otherwife than in grofs, or other than cattle, and all neceffaries for the victualling the faid borough, nor fliall hold any fhop, place or ftation, nor ufe 3ny myftery, occupation,or art manual within the borough, without the fpecial licence of the mayor and aldermen uner the common feal. Two fairs * to be held in every year, the one on Afcenfion day, * There is another fair held by prefcriprion on the 15th (the duties upon wool, hides, fleeces or fiicep /kins, and cf Augnft vearly ; and a month'y tollfree market for horned wines, only excepted ) cattle and pigs, held on the third Monday in every month, There is a fpaeious traft of wharf land within the borough, which latter was eftablilhed about 32 years ago. called the marines, belonging to the inhabiting burgefles and The burgefles of Newport are alfo by feveral patents granted their widows, containing about 50 ftatule acres, which they "in former reigns, and confirmed in the 27th of Elizabeth, have enjoyed by prescription for upwards of a century palf ; exempt from the payment of fundry tolls and duties, viz. the hay whereof is divided between them according to culfom murage or wall toll, bridge toll, laftage, (tallage, pickage, tron. on Monday next before Midfumrrer in every year; and titty age, or wool-weighing toll, kayagc or wharfage, and terrage have an unlimited right of grazing the lattermath with all or tillage, and of all other cuftoms and'duties throughout the manner of cattle, &c. from the 16th of Anguft to Clirifljnai Jcinedoms of Great Britain and Ireland, and the duchy of eve. Acjuitain, or elfewhere throughout her majefty's dominions j 4H A P P E N D I X.— N« 4. day, and the other on the feaft of St. Leonard, or 6th of November, in fuch convenient place within the borough as to the mayor and aldermen fliall feem beft ; with a pye-povvder court there to be held in time of the fairs, with all liberties, free cuftoms, tolls, (tallages, pickages, fines, armerciments, and all other profits, commodities, advantages, and emoluments to fuch fairs, and pye-powdcr court belonging, &c. Confirmation of Privileges of Newport, by Queen Elizabeth. "ELIZABETH, by the grace of God of England, France, and Ireland, queen, defender of the faith, &c. to all before whom thefe prefents fliall come health : we have examined letters patent of his majefty Henry the Vth formerly king of England, our progenitor, bearing witness to this effect :— Henry, bv the grace of God king of England and France, and fovereign of Ireland, to all before whom thefe prefents fliall come health ; we have examined letters patent of his majefty Henry (IVth) lately king of England, our father, to this effect x— Henry, by the grace of God king of England and France, and fovereign of Ireland, to all before whom thefe prefents fliall come health ; we have examined letters patent of his majefty Richard the I Id after the conqueit bearing witntfs to this effect : — Richard, by the grace of God king of England and France, and fovereign of Ireland, to all before whom ti.efe prefents fliall come health; we have examined a chart of his majefty Edward, late king of England, our great- grandfather, to this effect : — Edzuard by the grace of God ki. g ot England, fovereign of Ireland, and duke of Aquitain, to the archbifiifs, biJJiops, abbots, priors, earls, baro .s, Jh ■rifts, judges, fuperintending oncers, and to all bailiff's, and their officers, health : — Know ye that we at our fpecial favour have granted, ■and bv this our chart have confirmed to our beloved and faithful Hu^h le Defpenfr the younger, that he and his heirs, and their burgefles, and others the inhabitants oi Ccrdyfi UJk, Cacrlion, Newport, Con- brugge, Neeth, and Kencfeg in Wales, of all their effects and goods, wares, as well merchandize as others, be for ever releafed from toll, wall-toll, biidge-toll, ware-carriage-toll, fall or funding toll, piccage, toll for breaking up the ground to fix flail fandings or booths, tronage, wool-waighing toll, kayigc, wharf toll, tirrage, lord" s-land-tillage, and alfo of all other cuftoms and duties throughout our whole kingdom and our duchy of Aquitain, and our fovereignty of Ireland, and elfewhire throughout our dominions, the duties upon wool, hides, fleeces or Jlteepftins, and wines due to us and our heirs futctfors only excepted. Wherefore it is our will, and we ftrictly enact for us and our heirs, that the fame Hugh and his heirs and their burgefles, and others the inhabitants of the aforefaid towns of Kcrdjf, U/k. Cacrlion, Newport, Conbrugge, Neeth, and Kencfeg in Wales, of all their effects and goods, as well merchandize as others, be for ever releafeJ from toll, wall-toll, bridge-toll, ware-carriage-toll, fall or fanding-toll, toll for breaking up the ground to fix falls, ftandings or bcoths, wool-waighing-toll, wharf toll, lords land tillage, and alfo of all other cuftoms and duties throughout our whole kingdom, and our duchy of Jlquitain, and our fovereigntv of Iceland, and elfewhere throughout our dominions, duties upon wool, hides, fleeces, or ftieepjkins, and wines due to us and our heirs-fucceffors only excepted as aforefaid : Given with the atteftation of the venerable fathers, W archbifhop of Cant, primate at all England, J. bifliop of Norwich, J. bifiiop of Chcfter, Ado- mcro de Valencia, earl of Pembroke, Edmund earl Arundel, John de Segrave fenior, William Martyn, Richat d Dommory ftewards of our houfehold, under our hand at Weitminfter, the 41I1 day of March, and the feventeenth year of our reign, (that is Richard I Id.) We therefore finding all and fibular within the faid chart ratified and granted for us the heirs and our fucceffors, do to the extent of our power ratify and approve the fame; and to the aforefaid burgeffes and others the inhabitants of the aforefaid town of Newport, and their heirs and fucceflbrs, we grant and confirm, as the aforefaid chart fully witneflbth ; and that they the fame burgefles, and others the inhabitant: of the aforefaid town of Ne-zvport, ought to avail themfelves of, and enjoy the privileges and releafth aforefaid, in the fame man- ner as we find their predeceflbrs have been ever accuftomed fully to ufe and enjoy the fame privileges and releafes, from the time of making the aforefaid chart. In teltimony whereof, we have caufed thefe our letters patent to be made : Witnefs onrfelf at the abby of Margam, the 10th day of September, in the eighteenth year of our reign, (that is Henry IV.) We therefore, finding the aforefaid grants and confirmations, and alfo all and fngu'ar contained in the aforefaid chart and letters ratified, and we receive and approve them granted for us and our heirs to the extent of our power, and we grant and confirm to our now beloved the burgefles and others the in- habitants of the aforefaid town of Newport, their heirs and fucceffors, as the aforefaid chart and letters fully CHARTER OF N E W P OR T, &c. 4»5 fully witnefs, and as they the fame burgeffes and ethers the inhabitants of the aforefaid town of Keiv/>oit, have accuftomed always hitherto fully to ufe and enjoy thole privileges and releafes from the time of making the aforefaid chart : In teftimony whereof, we have made thefe letters patent, witnefs ourfelfat Weftminfter, the 25th day of November, in the fecondyear of our reign, (that is Henry V.) We therefore, with the advice and affent of the lords fpiritual and temporal, affembled at our parliament holden at Weil ninfter, in the firfl year of our reign, do approve, ratify, and confirm the aforefaid let- ters, touching thofe privileges and releafes, together with others the irrevoked contents of thofe letters ; and as the aforefaid letters witnefs, that they the burgeffes and others the inhabitants, ought to ufe and enjoy the aforefaid privileges and releafes, as their predeceffors the burgeffes and others the inhabitants of the faid town of Newport have hitherto always accuftomed to fully ufe and enjoy the aforefaid pri- vileges and releafes from the time of making the aforefaid letters and ratifications : In teftimony whereof, we have made thefe our letters patent, witnefs ourfelf at Weftminfter, the 2d day of Febru- ary in the fecond year of our reign, by breviat from the privy feal, Hafeley. (that is Elifabeth.) We therefore finding the aforefaid chart and letters ratified, do ratify and approve to the extent of our power the fame grants for us, our heirs, and fucceffors, and we do grant and confirm to our be- loved burgeifes and others, the inhabitants of the aforefaid town of Newport, their heirs and fucceffors, as the aforefaid chart fully witnefleth in itfelf : In teftimony whereof, we have made thefe letters pa- tent, witnefs ourfelf at Weftminfter, the 4th day of November, in the tvventy-feventh year of our reign. Powle. The fine exacted, £ 1. 6s. 8^/. C Matthew Carew 1 J. Bromley, Chancellor. Executed by us < and >• Clerks. (. Henry Barkley. J Amount of Tonnage on the Monmouthshire Canal, for One Year, Commencing September 9, 1798. Coal. Pig Iron. Bar Iron. H. Elooms. Timber. Lime. Sund ries. Tons. Cwt. Tons. Cwt. Tons. Cwt. Tons. Cwt. Tons. Cwt. Tons. Cwt. Tons. Cwt. September Quarter 5>!77 0 2)497 10 23 0 '35 10 82 1 »4 354 0 December 7.399 0 2,843 10 H5 0 114 0 35 10 812 5 March ^ - - 7.013 0 2,821 iS 4 0 132 0 5° 0 354 5 June - . . . 8,502 0 2,996 10 5 10 161 0 42 5 0 i' 0 227 10 28,091 0 11,159 5 3* 10 573 10 28S 6 153 5 1,748 0 CONTINUED. Ale & Porter. Stones. Caftin g s - Bark. Iron Ore. Slate. Manure. Tons. Cwt. Tons. Cwt. Tons. Cwt. Tons. Cwt. Tons. Cwt. Tons. Cwt. Tons. Cwt. September Quarter 1 1 10 4.777 0 45 10 26 10 237 10 24 15 94 10 December - - 9 0 1,928 15 38 0 0 5 196 6 43 5 55 ° March - - - 1,130 10 45 10 643 0 48 0 June - - - 4.517 0 7 0 36 0 879 0 13 10 28 0 20 10 '2.353 5 136 0 62 15 '.955 16 81 10 225 10 t 4'6 ] APPEND! X.— N°. 5. Confutation of the Court of S overs, in the Level of Wentloog ; referred to Chapter 9. Communicated by the Rev. Mr. Evans. Til P. juftices or commiffioners commonly fo called, are nominated by the lord lieutenant of the county, and appointed and confirmed by the king, under the great feal, and by the duchy of Lancafler, under the leal of that duchy; fo that in this inftance, relative to the levels in Mon- mouthfhire, there are duplicate commillions. The term of the commiflion is limited to ten years, and fometimes to one more, being a year of grace. In cafe of emergency or public difturbance, it is con- ceived that the lord lieutenant may apply for a new commiflion if requifite. The authority of this court is controuled only by the pow er of the court of king's bench, in cafe of an appeal. The court of fewers at their meeting, after the iffuing and receipt of the commiffion, fwear therr- felves into office, in purfuance of a mandate to one of them, cornmiffioned to fwear himfelf, by the affiftance of the clerk of the fewers, whofe office is deemed very refpectable. They firft appoint their own clerk, who holds his office generally for life, or qnnm diu bene fe .geilerit, and is recorder of the court. They appoint alfo two public expenditors ; one for the level of It'enthog, the other for the two divijions of C^lJcoL The office of the expenditors is to fee that the walls are kept in good repair, and that the Rheens, or channels which convey the rain waters from the hills and levels, be clear of all obtlrucTons ; and they are in this independent of the Jurveyns and jurors. To them are ilfued all orders from the court, relative to the taxes railed upon the levels, towards maintaining the walls. The expence is defrayed in part by lands, which have been furrendcrcd to the court by the original polfeffors, becaufe their quota, towards keeping in repair the portion of lea wall originally appointed, exceeded the value of that property. The court is obliged to accept of fuch fiirrenders, unh fs there be an unity of pojpjjim ; that is, when the proprietors fo diftxefled have lands elfewhere, which are not liable to a level tax. In that cafe the court will not accept ttie furrender of land fo conditioned, but can and does compel the proprietor, who has unity of pofieffion, to maintain his fliare of fea wall. The two expenditors having received in court the order relative to the fum afTeHed upon everv acre, fend their mandate to the collectors of the land tax, who deliver the monies contributed bv virtue of fuc.h mandate to the expenditors. The afleTRtient varies from two pence to fix pence per see; and the produce, after paving the expences of the fcflion, or meeting of the court, and the falaries of the expenditors and clerk of the fewtrs, is applied to the maintenance of the fea walls. The accounts of the expenditors are annually audited by the court. The next officers in order are the furvcyors of the levels; of whom there is one in each parifh ; their bufinefs is to prelenf to the court defers and omiffions, which were overlooked or not noticed bv the jurors, to repair thofe deferts and omiffions, and bring in their accounts to the court. The furors are about fifteen or more in Wentloog, three or four in every parifh, and the fame number, or thereabout, in each of the two divifions of Caldecot. Their office is to examine, a fortnight before the fpring feffion.all the fea walls and rheens, to take cognizance of the defects and obftructions, and to prefent the fame by their foreman to the court, in writing, which is read over by the clerk or his deputy in their prefence, and minutely canvaffied by the cotnmiiiioners. If there be any error in. their prcfentment, they have a right to retire and amend it, again to enter the court, and deliver it to the clerk, \vl»en the preferment is read, and the jurors for each divifion and level difmhlcd in their turn. In the autumn court, the accounts of the expenditors and furve\ors are audited, and aj fo the accounts of particular or private expenditors, appointed by the court to fupply the defects of indivi- duals who neglect the work, and are obliged to pay thofe inferior expenditors a poundage often per cent, for the money by them advanced. When 1 ETYMOLOGY OF CAERLEOX. In cafe of any fudden accident between the fpring and autumn feffton, a (ingle con:niifTioner, or more, as the emergency requires, may apprife the cierk of fewers to cite the commiffioners to examine the defects upon the Ipot, which is termed to have a view. The commiffioners immediately iiTue their orders for repair, as foon as poflible ; and even during the feffion, ihould it appear that any difficulty arofe with regard to the adjuftir.g of old defecls, or the making of new rheens, or altering any thing which concerns the levels at large, or individuals in particular, any individual may, with the ncquiefcence of the court, demand a view, and the cafe in quellion is finally determined by the com- iniHioners attending. N° 6. — Addition to Chapter 10, on Caerleon; referred to in p. 80. Etymology of Caerleon, in a Note from Mr. Owen. AN Article refpecting the derivation of the name of Caerlleon, will, I prefume, necefTarily occur in your Account of MonmouthJIiire, which it is not likely that you will refer to my confideration, be- caufe you may have judged it fully eftablimed already, from the unanimous confent of all writers who have touched upon the fubject. But, fir, I beg leave to fubmit to your opinion, whether this point would have been thus fettled, if thofe who drew fuch a conclufion, had been poffeffed of all the evi- dence, which fhould refult from the facts hereafter noticed ? It is Hated, that this Caerlleon upon the Ujke, as alfo the Caerlleon upon tlieDes (or Chefter) are fo called, from their being the Jlations of Roman Legions; thus implying that Lleon is the Welfli modifica- tion, or corruption of the term Legion. If this derivation were well confidered, it would appear rather improbable, even if there were no other grounds ; for the places fo called, had names, and I would prefume, thofe identical names here mentioned ; and were alfo places of ftrength, pointed out by the eligibility of fituation, before the Roman legions ever made their appearance : and befides, why do we not find other places in the ifland receiving their appellations from a fimilar caufe } The fails which I am about to ftate in evidence are thefe: In the firft place, the Wellh term ufed for a Legion is Lleng, a very common word in all the writings of the different ages ; therefore, if the foregoing derivation were true, the name of the town would have been Caer Lleng ; and which a critic, nay every body who knows the Wellh language, can point out to be very different in ftructure from Caer Lleon, a word of three fyllables. The next fact is, that the proper name of the town is Caer LTion, and not Caer Lleon ; and it is always found fo in our molt ancient manufcripts. The meaning of Caer is already well known to be, any inclofure of defence, or fortification, and in a fecondary fenfe, a city. I fhall proceed to ftate, as a third fact, the import of LTion to be, ftreams, torrents, or floodings, a term often ufed, in an aggregate fenfe, for any great body of water ; and it is derived from Lit, which is the Angular form of the word, implying a dream or flood, in its popular acceptation. The la ft fact to be adduced is, the great propriety of the name for the fituation of the town on the banks of the river Ufk ; and probably the fituation is, or was formerly on the extremity of the range of the tides, thus rendering the plural form of the appellation ftill more defcriptive, than if it were only (as it fre- quently has been ufed) on account of the vicinity of the river Ulk to the town. As to the laft-men- tioned circumftance you are fully enabled to judge for yourfelf, which renders it needlefs for any re- marks of mine ; and as I have laid down the leading points, which make me diffent from the com- monly received etymology of Caerlleon, I commit them in this brief way to your judgment, to draw fuch an inference as may feem confident with reafon. 3 H [ 4>8 ] N* 7. — Dijprtativn on the Inscription engraven on a Brafs Plate in the Church of Ujl; (referred to in p. 133.^ containing Explanations by Dr. IVootton, the Rev. Mr. Evans, Hear oj St. fVoolos, and a Letter on the fame Subjetl from Mr. Owen. TpyR. WOOTTON was the firft perfon who gave an explanation of this inscription, which he con- fidered as a mixture of Welfh and Latin, and an epitaph on a profeflbr of aftronomy, and chief of a cnllege of two hundred philofophers, eftabliflicd at Caerleoa before the arrival of the Saxons. He thus read, explained, and tranflated it : Nole clodde yr Ethrod Caeilleon Advocad Lawnhaed Lundain a Barnvvr Bedd Breint aput Ty'n ev Aro, Ty Hauale Selif Synwoeper * Suma Seadem Ulk Avail f Kylche Dec & Kymmyde Doctor Kymmen, Leua loer i lawn O leue. " Noli effodere ProfelTorem (Scientiarum) Caerlegioneufem, Advocatum digniflimum Londinenfem, " & Judicem Sacri fhivilegii (vel Cancellarium) apud Fanum Aaronis, & Fanum Julii (potius for- «' fan Avaloniae) Solomonem Aftrologum, Summum vel Praepofitum Civitatis Ulk, tenentis circiter " decern Commotes, Lunam lucidam in plenilunio lucentem." This reading and explanation were adopted in the Drych y Priv Oefodd, or Mirror of the Primitive Ages, by the Rev. Theophilus Evans, rector of Langammarch, in the county of Brecon, who was inferior to no perfon of his time in the knowledge of the VVelfh tongue. The Rev. William Harris, prebendary of Landaff, in his obfervations on the Julia Strata, inferted in the fecond volume of the Archseologia, adopted the fame explanation, although he gave a fac fimile of the incription, which proved the fallacy of the interpretation, for the word which Wootton and Evans had read Caerlleon appears to be yarlleyn. Mr. Gough likewife, in his valuable edition of Camden, has on thefe re- fpedable authorities inferted the fame reading, accompanied with the fame fac fimile. Having difcovered, on comparing this fac fimile with the infeription, that the form of the letters was not exactly reprefented, I procured another, by means of a flip of paper laid on the plate, and rubbed with black lead, an engraving of which is here annexed. Mr. Evans at my requeft ex- amined the infeription, was of opinion that it was wholly Welfh, and favoured me with the fol- lowing explanation : " The Infeription on the Brafs Plate in the Church of Ufk, as it is engraved, and to be read letter for letter. Nole clode yr ethrode yar lleyn Seliff funnoeir finn Advocade llawnhade llundeyn a fe adam ufke eval kufke A barnon rhede breynta pentra Deke kummode dodor kymmen ty nevaro ty havalie lie va loei llawn oleue. " Here follows the explanation in Welfh , as it u ould have been written after the time of the dubious date of the infeription, before our orthography received a new turn in the time of Queen Elifabeth bv the tranflators of our Bible into Welfli : 1 Ynole cloddai yr ethrodjar lleyn, 5 Selif fynwyr fenn 2 Advocad llawnhad llundeyn. 6 Y fydd oddi am Ufke, y vel cvfcai 3 A bamon ar hyd oreintiau prentrau 7 Deg cymmod, doctor cymmen, 4 Ty' Nevaro ty Havalie; 8 lie bo lloe ei llawn o leuen. This * « Synwoepr, or Synwybr, a word compounded of Syniau f " Cava! i. e. Services due from tenants to their lords, and Wybyr, i.e. Cotlos contemplari. The Soutli Britons in the old Britifh called Kylche, which name they retain at And Cornilh pronounced it Eobr or Wybr. See Llwyd." S t. David's to this day." nolfitottjiifll^^ jSf riifr rmmoftr riimn rrabnm vfKr f on I RiifKe X3 mr KnniiiinTeaimKl^nttum Uaiftloefllritentaif Facsimile of tiic Jn/cripUon in the Church of Pfk INSCRIPTION IN USK CHURCH. " This tranflation is extremely clofe, and almoft the original idiom, from which in this inftance • there mould be no deviation. I In that place was buried the teacher, Lord, learned. s Advocate of full competency of London, 3 and Baron of the liberties of the villages 4 of Ty' Nevaro ty Havalie; 5 a Solomon of difcreet counfel 6 around Uik, fo far as fleep 7 ten commots, an eloquent doclor 8 where the moon has her fulilultres." (Letter from Mr. Owen, containing another Explanation.) f Sir, u T BEG leave to return the fac-fimile of the infcription in the church of Ufk, which you were pleafed to fend to me, with my attempt to explain it. " It may be proper to obferve in the firft place, that copies of the infcription, lefs faithful than this, are already in the hands of the public, accompanied with fuch guelTes, with refpect to the meaning, as the writers were enabled to procure. " You will perceive, fir, in the fequel, that my explanation of theUfk infcription differs greatly from that given by Dr. Wootton, and I regret that it is equally at variance with that furnifhed by the Rev. Mr. Evans of Caerau ; fuch a diverfity alone is fufficient to fhew the difficulty of afcertaining the true meaning of this piece of antiquity. There is however one point, admitting of no difpute, which is, that this mutilated copy affords fufficient evidence to prove that the original infcription was in the Weijli tongue, as appears from feveral words correctly written, agreeably to a particular orthography in ufe about the period when it feems to have been executed. There is equal certainty, I think, that it contains eight lines of poetry, each couplet beginning with the large initial letters. " You did me the favour of fhewing a communication from a co.Tefpondenr, * who reports, that the original infcription was on a ftone, which was fent to London ; and the preient one on brafs is a copy, executed there, and fent by the defire of parties concerned, to be put up in the church inftead of the other. Mr. Harris likewife affirms, that this was a copy of a more ancient infcription. Independently of thofe accounts, and indeed before I had heard of them, I perceived, as I thought, indiiputable marks that the prefent infcription was executed by a {hanger to the language, which it is not likely would have been the cafe in the firft inftance; and, if it had been entrufted then to fuch a perfon, when what was meant to be recorded was known to thofe concerned, a performance fo incorrect would not have been fuffered to be put up ; but the miftakes in copying an old infcription defaced by time, no one could well point out. I might add further, had any man acquainted with the language been the engraver, he would have executed it according to fome ftile of orthography, which would be legible to me, as well as the feveral thoufand pieces written about the period when it was done, and which I have been obliged to perufe, in collecting materials for the Welfh dictionary, now nearly completed, after fifteen years of clcfe application. " I fhall here exhibit the infcription as it {lands on the plate, pointing out fuch words as are correctly written, according to a known fyftem of Welfh orthography, by capital letters, and by italics 'fuch -words as are tolerably explicit, thus : Noleclode yr. ethrode yar ueyn aduocach uawn hade llundeyn A barnourbedeBREYNTapiletynevaroty hauabe Seliff fun o eir'finna feadam yfkeeval kufke Deke iummode doclor kymmen Uena Ioe i llawn oleue. " Here we find eight words written correctly, according to the dialect of Gwetitin the fifteenth, century ; it is therefore fair to pre fume, that the whole of the original infcription was equally exact. The di- vifions between fome of the words are clear; but in other inftances they appear confufed, which is a confiderable fource of difficulty, when accompanied by greater ambiguities. ' In old writings, the m, », u, iu, in, iu, ni, ui, iv, vi, nn, nu, un, im, mi, and the like, have not a marked difference, by which they can be defined in many cafes, other wife than by the meaning of the text ; but when fuch other letters * The Rev. Mr. Jones of the Piilill. 3 H a 4io APPENDS X 7. Igtters as accompany them are clearly made out, there feldom arifes any difficulty in difcriminating what they fliould be alfo in reading Welfli ; a ftranger to the language, however, would be liable to commit many errors in copying, by confounding moft of the fquare letters, and this feems to have beeil the cafe with refpect to the plate under confideration. " From the appearance of the infcription, as above exemplified, you are enabled, fir, to judge, what parts of it are tq,bc reclined, or rilled up by the imagination; and you will likewife ceafe to wonder at tiie difference between former attempts, my interpretation, and the explanation given by the reverend Mr. Evans of Caerau, which you were pleafed, by his permiffiou, to fend for my perilfal. To this gen- tleman's general erudition, and his particular acquaintance with Welfli literature, a large circle of his countrymen bears honourable tefHmony ; and 1 beg leave to take this opportunity of giving my af- l'ent to luch a fentiment, and to applaud the patriotic bias of his tafle and refearches. " I now come to the difficult part of my ta fk,- the reftoring of the Ufk infcription to its true reading. In fo doing, I fhall be guided, in the firft place, by the peculiar orthography of the Gwentian dialect, which from the proofs already mentioned, fiiould be particularly attended to. " The muft popular metre in ufe about the time of the writing, is, in the next place, a guide to be followed with confiderable reliance ; but at the fame time felecYing that, to which the words will belt apply in their prefent form, and with the flightefl alterations. The one fixed upon to anfwer fuch in- tention is, the cyhydez wast ad, or the even mctricity, thus defined in the Bardic Inftitutes : " the '* characteriftics of the even metricity are, a verfe of eight fyllables, and the length of the ftanza to be " from four to fixteen verfes, poueffing the general principle of the canons. This metre is extremely " free, and affumes, better than any other, the rhythmical harmony of the lines, and the verfes flow " with regular accent. And it is a moft fuitable metre in compositions of love and elegy; and is more " univerfally ufed than any other, except the fmooth meir'city in compound metres." Having traced out the plan, which appears to me moil rational, I accordingly give the following as a probable reading of the infcription : w Nota clod yr ethrod yar lleyn * Selyf fynn o eir hwn a fu Advo cud f Uawn hwde llundeyn A daiar wyfk ei wal kyfku Abarnwni bed breynt ap 11yd * Dewr kymmode doeth a chymmen j| Yn e varn a fu henefyd § Lien a Hue i llawn oleuen' " The meaning of which is: Mark this obje£t of fame, to the difgrace of the blade f : were he not covered London would be in difficulty. Then let us confecrate the grave of Braint ** fon of Llydd | f, who in judgement was an elder f j : Solomon, profound of word, was he ; and the fod of Ifca his bed of fleep ! Ardently he would reconcile the eloquent, and the wife ; the clergy and the laity would be fully illumined." * Another reading : Ntut clad yr athro day at lleyn! Ah, is not the grave of the great teacher the fod of the vale ! ■J" Or, Sld-vo cad, were there a battle again. X Or, A batdonl bc'ird breynt ay lies, and the lore of the bards of privilege and their joy. § Or, Yn ei "variu fy en bajies, in his death is become their misfortune. j| Or, Teg y kymmod do£tor kymmen, fairly the eloquent doctor reconciled. A free reading, according to thefe notes, would be— Ah, be- hold the grave of the great teacher is the fod of the vale ! When a battle took place London felt embarrafled ; and the fong of the bards of ancient lore and their joy, all varifh through his death : He who was like Solomon, profound of word, on Jfca's ba nks his couch of fleep! Fairly the eloquent doctor reconciled difputes : Clergy and laity were fully enlightened by him. % The original word for this is Llain, which fignifies any thing ftretched out flatly ; a blade ; alfo a flat flang of land ; a vale. ** The meaning of this word is privilege ; but as it has been ufed for a proper name of men, I have taken it in that fenfe, otherwifc no name occurs as the object of the in- fcription. f t Thefe parts of the origiral are fo obfeured, that it may be m^de any thing elfe of the fame length. XX I have prefcrved an ambiguous form, like the original, in this line; for if it were written and pointed; — Ardently he would reconcile, the eloquent and the wife; the epithets eloquent and wife, might be applied to him who is defcribed as the reconciler. [ 421 ] N" 8. — A true Coppieof an antient memorable Treatife of Record touchinge the Progenie & Dejcent of the honorable Name & Family of the Herberts, by CommiJJion from E. 4, An? Dom. 1460 ; — referred to in p. 141. WHEREAS hyt pleafyd the Mageflye of God to rayfe & to exaulte unto y s Kyngdome of England our dread Sofferaigne Lord by y e Grace of God Edward y e fovverth of that name after y e Conqweft by rightfull ty tell and inheritance to y e Crowne. Soe hyt pleafyd him the fayd Kynge in like ways to rayfe to awthorytyes caullinges & dygnytyes foch chytftlt men as vveyre partakers of his Trowbells & warrys againft his aduerfaryes. And amongyft ciders that he exawltvd he creatyd William Hebert (who was before Lord of Ragland) Earl of Pembroke & honowryd hym & made hym Knvght of the moft nobyll order of y e Gam er, after w ch creatyon the Kynge his Mageflye com- mandyd the faid Earl & S r . Richard Herbert hys Broder to take theyr fyrnamys after theyr fyrft Pro- genvtor Herbert Fitzroy & to foregoe the Bryttifh order & manner whofe vfage ys to caulle euery man by hvs fader grand fader & Greate grandfader hys name. And for thys caufe the Herawldry of England difputyd amongyft theymfelfys towchinge the pedegree & fiocke of the fayd Earl & Knvght & could not agree uppon the Trowth theyreof. And theyreof yt pleafyd the fayd Kynge hys Ma- gefty under hys Mageflye hys feale & wrytyng of Comyffion dyrecled vnto mee Jenan y e fonne of Rytherch y* fonne of Jenan Lloyd of the Countye of Cardigan Efq r togedyr with the ltre of y e fayd Honowrabell Earle giuinge me Awthorytye by vyrtew of the fayd comyffion to cyte & caulle before me into the Caftle of Pembroke the fowre cheyffeft men of fkyll within the Prouynce of Sowth Wallys whofe names are theyfe viz r . Howell the fonne of Dauid the fonne of Jenan the fonne of Rvs. 2 ■ Howell Swrdwall. 3 Jenan Deulwyn. 4 Jenan Brecheva. And fo by vyn- formve confent by y e anthorytye of the fayd Comyflyon & by y e commandment gyuen ys for to fend vnto the Kyng his Magefiye the trewe pedegree flock & lynadge of y c faid Earle & Knight wee aflem- blyd ourfelues aulle fiue togeyder with many oder learnyd men prfftnt at the Caflell of Pembroke this day being the 12 daye of y e moneth of Auguft in the yeare of Lord God 1460. And after long confu- tation by vnyuerfaulle confent & affent &c beyng lead by the awthoryte & warrant of the Bookys of old Doftours, anncyent wrytyngs, Records ofCowrts, Barons Hyfloryes, & VVajrys of Prynccs, Bookys of Remembrans founde in the anncyent Abbeye of Strata Florida the Booke of Pedegrees of Howell Moythey of Caftell Odwyn Efq. the Rowls of Morgan Abbot & many foche oder Bookys & war- rantes of awthorytye And by the Awthorytie of our owne arte & fyence Haue wrytten this p fent Treatyfe \v ch wee fend togeyder w th y* Pedegree of the fayd Honowrabell Earle & Knvght vnto y e Kynge hys Mageflye in fowre fcuerall languadges vitz 1 . in latyne Biyttifh French & Englifli, Iiuche Coppye agreeing word for word. And foe wee moft humbly take oarleauys die et loco predifto. The Pedegree is thus. The faid honowrabell Earle ys namy'd William Herbert a nobell Kayght y* fonne of William the fonne of Thomas the fonne of Gwilvm the fonne of Tenkyn the fonne of Adam the fonne of Reignold the fonne of Peter the fonne of Herbert the fonne of Herbert a Nobell Lord dyfcendyd of the Royall Blood of y c Crowne of England : for he was naturall fonne to King Henry the fyrft fonne to William y e Conqueror which Herbert had his habytation in S ! . Michaell hys Caftell in v c forreft of Danvs And Peter fonne of the fayd Herbert Fitz Herbert had by hys Mother beyng y c Dawghter of Milo Fitz Walter giuen vnto hym the Loalfhip of Betfley Ik he marryed the dawghter of Blcthyn Broad- fpeare by whofe bodye a fonne namyd Reignold Lord of Llanllovvel who married Margaret the Dawghter of Si r . John Walfhe K 1 . by whom he had yfiewe Addam Lord of Llanliowel y* marr Xtian Dawghter and Heyre to Gwaryn Ddu (or the black) Lord of Llandeylo bv whofe body he had 1 y flews 422 A P P E N D I X.— N° 9. vflevve two fonnes v;t z S r . Thomas Adam K*. and Jenkyn Adam Efq Lord of Wrenddu w ch Jenkyn marryed Wenllan daughter to S r . Aron ap Bledry K'. & by her had a fonne narnyd Gwylym Lord of Wernddii in Gwentland w ch Gwylm marryed Wenllian daughter to Howell Vaughan fonne to Howell fonne to Jtrwerth defcended of the Kyngs of Gwent by whom he had yffewe fowre fonnes viz 1 . John Danid I lowell and Thomas w ch Thomas ibnne of Gwilym of Perthhir Efq married Maud daughter and hcyres of S r . John Morley Knight & by her had yffewe fowre fonnes vit z Howell Philip Jenan & S r William Thomas K c . & fine Daughters whereof one was married to Gwylym Dauid of Rhiwpperrey Efq the fecondlo Phillip Riccard ofTyleglas the third to GwnterofS'. Silin by Vfke & the oder two daugh- ters Dyrd younge And the favd S r . Willyam Thomas Knight married Gwladys daughter to S r . Dauid Gam K'. fonne to Llewelyn Sonne to Howell Vaughan Sonne to Howell Sonne to Gwion Says Sonne to Trahkrne Sonne to Gwyon Sonne to Bletheyn Sonne to Maynyrch Lord of Breck- nock which faid S r . William Thomas by the forefayd Gwladys had yffewe the forefayd nobell William Herbert Lord of Raglan now Earle of Pembroke & S r . Richard Herbert of Coldbrooke his broder & two Doughters Viz'. wife to S r . Henry Wogan & Elizabeth wife to S r . Henry Strad- ling K nts . whom God bleffe and theyr pofteritye. Collected & fett downe by good awthorytye by us Jenan ap Rytherch ap Jenan Lloyd Efq. Howell ap Dauid ap Jenan ap Rys gent. Howell Swrdwall 1 Jenan Deulwyn £ Bardes Jenan Btechva J N" 9. — Addition to Chapter 16, p. 153. the authority of a fepulchral infciiption, in the church of Lanfanfraed, I have confidered Philip K_J as the eldeft fon and heir of Thomas ap Gwillim. But Edmonfon, in his Baronagium, p. 263, does not even mention Philip ; and calls fir William ap Thomas, who was ftated at Raglan cattle, the firft fon ; and in the pedigree, inferted in the laft number, Howell, from whom the Powells of Perthir are defcended, is named firft. It is not eafy to reconcile thefe difcordant accounts; and it muft be confeffed that there is a confiderable difagreement in the genealogies of the Herberts, preferved in the Heralds' office, and thofe in the pofleifion of different branches of the family. All that is certainly known is, that Thomas ap Gwillim had feveral fons; fir William obtained Raglan caftle ; Howell was feated at Perthir; and Philip at Lanfanfraed. Edmonfon mentions Evan as the anceftor of the Gwyns and Raglans of Glamorganfhire ; and David, from whom the Hughfes of Killough, and the Gwithens of Gwent are defcended. The defcendants of Philip ap Thomas, who were feated at Lanfanfraed, affumed, in 1553, the name of Jones. The pedigrees differ no lefs in refpeft to the four fons of Gwillim ap Jenkin, the father of this Thomas, who was feated at Lanfanfraed. According to Edmonfon, his four fons were, 1. Thomas, 2. John or Jenkin, from whom the Progers were defcended, 3. David, 4. Howell. But in the pedi- gree, inferted in the former chapter, as well as in the genealogy of the family of Jones, in the pofieffion of Mr. Jones of Clytha, and publifhed in the Hiftory of Monmouthfliire, Jenkin was the eldeft, David the fecond, Howell the third, and Thomas the fourth. We need not, therefore, wonder that the rival houfes of Werndee and Perthir fliould difpute concerning priority of defcent. [ 423 1 N° 10. — Infcription in the Chancel of Lanarth Church \ referred to in p. 158. Sacred to the Memory of ELIZABETH Wife of WILLIAM JONES, Efquire, of Clytha House in this Parish, who requeuing that flie might not be buried in any Church, lies interred in the adjoining Church Yard. She was the laft furviving I flue and Heir at Law of Sir William Morgan of Tredegar in this County, K. B. by the Right Honourable the Lady Rachel Cavendifli, eldelt daughter to William Second Duke of Devonfhire ; Her Goodnefs and her Worth were fo eminently confpicuous, that the moft finiflied monumental eulogy, would vainly endeavour to difplay them. Yet as the always modeftly Ihrunk from obfervation, and ftudioufly ftroveto conceal her various Endowments ; Juftice to her Memory requires, that fome, tho' a very imperfect, iketch of her Character be here attempted : She was blefl with every hereditary Virtue of the moft illuftrious Houfe of Cavendifli : meek, rumble, patient, generous, friendly, noble; Happily adorn'd with a moft extenflve Genius, her Knowledge was vail and uncommon : In Poetry, Mufic, Botany, and all the polite Arts, She excell'd ; as her Manufcripts abundantly teftify : To enumerate her Virtues were impoflible ; She was, in Ihort, Purity and Innocence itfelf : for if ever thofe Virtues were perfonified, they were in her. An titter Stranger to every fpecies of Detraction, She never fpoke of her neighbour, but with praife and commendation. With a Heart ever bleeding at the Diftreflesof others, the great buflnefs and ddi^ht of her Life was " To do good, and to diftribute." Being too good to continue any longer in this World. She receiv'd with Refignation, her Summons from its Miiertes, to the Reward of a Glorious Immortality, on the 14th day of January, 1787,. in the 58th Year of her Age. This 424 A P P E N D I X.— N° 10. This Marble was erected, and this Infcription written by her moll afflifted and moll grateful Hulband, as a feeble Effort to do fomc Tn Qice to the Memory of the belt of Wives, and faintly to exprefs that fenfeof her Goodnefs fo indelibly engraven on his Heart. Dear honored Shade ! If Angels e'er beftow A thought on w hat is adled here below ; With pitying eye this weak attempt furvey, The Jalt fad tribute which thy Friend can pay. Thou beft of Women ! once my greateft pride, Dearer to me than all the World befide j If various Knowledge ever claim'd regard, 21 meek-eyed Patience ever met reward, If e'er the milder Virtues were approved, If fpotlefs Honor ever was belov'd, If Mortals may departed Worth revere, Still let thy Hulband Hied the filent tear; Still let him hug thy Image to his heart, From which it never, never fliall depart. Yet, yet awhile, and then 'twill be my lot, To join thy dull in yon fequefter'd fpot. Mean time, as flowers fpontaneous round it bloom, May white-robed Innocence bedeck thy tomb j May folemn requiems float upon the air, For ever fweet to liffening forrow's ear; While I, obfervant of thy virtues, drive Like thee to fuffer, and like thee to live. [ 4*5 3 N 9 I I. — Omijjionin Chapter 17, on the Population of Abergavenny. The population of Abergavenny exceeds 2,000 fouls. The average number of births for the lad ten years is from 5c to 60, and of deaths from 60 to 70 ; the excefs of the burials over the births arifes from the number of dilT'enters, who baptize their children according to their own cuftom, but have them interred in the church. N° 12. — Addition to Chapter 19. Churchyard, in his account of the tombs in the church of Abergavenny, defcribes a fuperb monument which once flood in the middle of the church, though then dilapidated. He informs us that the principal effigies v.as removed to a window, and feveral of the other figures, carved in ftone, were placed in a porch, " Amid the church lord Haftings lay, 11 Under his legges a lyon red, *' Lord Aborgaynie than : Cf His armes are rare and ritch : *« And fince his death remov'd away, " A harrold that could fhevve them well, '* By fine device of man : " Can blafe not many fitch. " And layd within a windowe right*, " Sixe Hons white, the ground fayre blew, " Full flat on ftonie wall: " Three flower-de-luces gold; " Where now he doth in open fight, " The ground of them is red of hew, " Remaine to people all. " And goodly to behold. u The windowe is well made and wrought, (c But note a greater matter now, " A coftly work to fee : " Upon his tomb in ftone, " In which his noble armes are though " Were fourteeue lords that knees did bow f " Of purpofe there to bee. " Unto this lord alone. «' A ragged fleeve, and fixe red birds, *' Of this rare work a porch is made, *' Is portray 'd in the glaife : " The barrons there remaine *' His wife hath there, her left arm bare, '* In good old ftone, and auncient trade, " It feems her fleeve it was, " To flievv all ages plaine, *' That hangs about his neck full fine, " What honour was to Haftings due, " Right ore a purple weede : " What honour he did win : " A robe of that fame colour too, " What armes he gave, and fo to blaze, " The ladie weares indeed. " What lord had Haftings bin." It is the general opinion at Abergavenny, derived from long tradition, that this fu uptuous monu- ment was placed in a niche under the moil eafterly window of the Herbert chapel, and that the eSigies of lord Haftings was removed to the north window of the Lewis chapel; it is fflppofed to be the fame as the recumbent figure in wood, which I have defcribed in p. 192, and whkh ftill remains in that fituation. But it appears to me improbable, that a rude figure in wood fhould be placed as the principal effigies, on a fumptuous monument of ftone, adorned with figures in relievo ; and in p. 193 I have given my reafons for fuppofingit to reprefent John de Haftings. The monument defcribed by Churchyard, was probably that of Lawrence de Haftings, earl of Pembroke, and lord of Abergavenny ; a puiffant peer, who, according to Dugdale, " in 15 Edward 3, was at that great feaft and juftir.g in " London, made by king Edward, for love of the countefs of Salifbury, as 'tis faid. And in 16 M Edward 3, attending the king into Eritanny, with lx men at arms, (himfelf accounted) two baa- " nerets, twelve knights, forty-five efquires, and an hundred archers on horftback, till the next en- M fuing year." Lawrence was buried in this church ; for his widow Agnes, daughter of Roger Mor- timer, earl of March, " left to the priory of Bergavenny, where her hufband lay interred, a fuite of " veftmentsof green cloth of gold." Baronage, p. 576 — 7. Three of the coats of arms mentioned by Churchyard were quartered by Lawrence de Haftinp-s : 1. Or, a manche gules, Haftings. 2. Barry argent and azure, an orle of martlets gules, Vaience. 3. Azure, 6 lioncels rampant, or, Leybourne, for his mother Julian, daughter and heirefs of Thomas de Leybourne. Mr. • «« In the windowe now lie lyes." + " Some fay this great lord was called Bruce and not Hiftings, but nioft do hold opinion he*vas called Haftings." 3 I APPEND! X.— N° 12. Mr. Dinwoody having at my requeft examined the porch of the church, favoured me with the fol- lowing communication : Twelve {landing figures carved in ftone, about two feet in height, are placed on ihe fide walls juj the infide, of the north porch ; each bears a fhicld, but fo much whitewafhed that ho traces of arms are vifible; on the front are four others of the fame fize, and apparently of the fame date, two of which bear fhields, and the other two feem to be females* It is therefore probable, that the fourteen figures with fnields, are the fourteen barons mentioned by Churchyard. N" 13. — Tr (inflation of a Grant in the Church Cheji of Lanti/io, or Landsilo Pertho//y, Monmouthfl'ire ; referred to %nrp. 205. TASPER, brother and uncle of kings *, duke of Bedford, earl of Pembroke and lord of Abergavenny, greeting, p.e it known that we the aforefaid duke have given, granted, and by thefe prcfents have confirmed, to all and lingular the pariftiioners dwelling and inhabiting within the borders and limits of the parifhes of La:itillio Pertholly, chapel and Lanwenarth cit. Ulk, in our lordfhip of Abergavenny, (that is to fay) that the aforefaid parifh ; oners, dwellers, and inhabitants, and every of their heirs for the time of their being there, fhall have liberty of our foreft of MoyI, of pa ft u re and water for all their goods and 001 f chattels there feeding for ever; and alfo to gather dry woods fall by winds, for their own proper ufe, in and upon our whole foreft, without the difturbance, interruption and moleftation of forrefters, or any of our officers whatfoever for the time being, (except all manner of growing woods, underwoods, feedings of pigs, wild honey, flray cattle, way tfs, efcheats, and all other J emoluments belonging from old time to our foreft aforefaid, which are referved to us and our heirs for ever ) To have and to hold the aforefaid libertys and prenufes, to the aforefaid parifnioners, dwellers, and inhabitants, and their heirs (except as before excepted by us and our heirs) for ever, paying therefore yearly the fum of twenty millings fterling to us and our heirs on the feaft of Annunciation of the blefTed V irgin Mary, and on the feaft of St. Michael the Archangel, in two equal portions ; and if it happens that the faid fum of twenty (hillings, or any part thereof, fhall be behind and unpaid for the fpace of one month, after any of the feafts whereon it ought to be paid, it may be lawful for us or our heirs, or any of our ftewards, to diftrain in the three places within the borders and limits of the aforefaid parifhes of Lantillio, Chapel, and Lanwenarth Cit : .whomfoever we think proper; and we the aforefaid duke and our heirs have truly warranted the aforefaid premifes & libertys to the aforefaid parifhioners, dwellers, & inhabitants for the time of their being there (except as before excepted) Egainft all people for ever: In witness whereof, we have granted thefe our letters patent. Teft : Walter Herbert, knight, fteward of our court of Abergavenny, John Thomas, efquire, of the fame court, Morgan ap David ap Elice and other:, dated at Abergavenny, fealcd with the feal of the chancellor of our lordfhip there, the tenth day of May, in the eighth year of the reign of king Henry the Seventh. This is a true tranflation of the letter patent, granted by the within named Jnfper lord of Aberga- venny, to the within mentioned parifhioners, &'C. Examined and compared with the original, (which is now depofited with Mrs. Frances Morgan of Trawofcoed in the parifh of Lanwenarth) at a parifii meeting held in the parifh of Lanwenarth, the 31ft day of December, 1748. By us ' Evan Jones, curate there, Henry Lewis, Walter Edwards, Thomas Phillips, * William Williams, John Jones, John Price, James Jones. William Lewis, Benjamin Jones, Joflma Price, Truly copied and compared the 19th February, 1770, By me James Jones. • Jafper was half brother to king Henry the 6th, and •nclc tn Icing Henry the 7th. Thus in the copy of the tranflation. J The word in the original fignifies royalties, which '13 here rendered emoluments. [ 427 ] N 9 14. — Additions to Chapter 30. Fac-fnnile of the Seal of the Abbey of Grace Dieu y mentioned in p. 289. Ac count of Caeluch. ABOUT three quarters of a mile from Landeilo, is the ancient and piclurefque manfion of Caeluch, or Kyllough, now a farm houfe ; it was formerly the feat of the family of Hughs, defcended, according to Edmonfon *, from David, fon of Thomas ap Gwillim, and brother of fir William ap Thomas. To t his family, I find in the archives of the duchy of Lancafter, numerous grants of lauds from the lords of White Caftle. It afterwards came either by inheritance or marriage to the family of Powell, the heirefs of which efpoufed, according to tradition f, Digby, lord Gerard of Bromley in Kent, who retained poffeffion of this eftate during his life time. On his death it was claimed by James, third duke of Hamilton, in virtue of his marrir.ge with Elifabeth, daughter of lord Gerard, by a fecond wife. A law fuit enfued, in which the duke of Hamilton was caft, and the eftate adjudged to the heirs of the Fowell family. It was afterwards purchal'ed by Mr. Medlicott, agent to the duke of Beaufort, and fold by his fon to the late Mr. Lewis. The houfe contains feveral remains of former magnificence, particularly in the painted glafs win- dows, emblazoned with arms, and ornamented with figures; among which, are thofe of St. George and the dragon, not ill executed. On the wall of the parlour is a brafs plate carved with the Medli- cott arms ; quarterly gules and azure, per fefs indented; three lions rampant argent, with this in- fcription, Thomas Medlicott Arm. obiit, 21 Julii, 1737, ./Etatis fuae, 78. 1. 1 an upoer apartment is a curious old oak chimney-piece, on which is carved the crucifixion, with grotefque ornaments, and rude figures of faints and angels ; in the center is a fliield of arms +, with the date of 1625. N° 15. — Addition to Chapter 31, on Monmouth. "n/j? R. Owen Tudor, bookfeller of Monmouth, pofleffes a fmall collection of pictures, among i.Vj. which one deferves particular notice; it is a Holy Family by Francefchino, one of the lalt of ihe Bolognefe fchool, in which the painter has happily imitated the ftyle of Corregio, in the figure of Jofeph and the Madonna of Ludovico Caracci in the St. John, and of Dominichino in the child. Sir Tofhna Reynolds was much pleafed with this picture. This painting was brought to England by the Rev. Mr. Elfton, who refided at Rome, and had a chapel in Little Wild Street, London. * Baronagium, p. 263. without male ifue, the title of baron Gerard of Bromiey \ According to op.e account, lord Gerard h2d by Mifj became extinct ; but the duke of Hamilton was created Powell, a fon, who reftded at Caeluch, bur died without ilfue duke of Brandon. bf fore his father ■. according to another account, lord Gerard J Apparently charged with a lion rampant in chief, three had noifliieby Mifs Howell, but retained porK-fTion of her greyhounds currant in bafe, and a palm tree on the dexter fide t ft ate until his death. On fearching the Heralds' office, I in pale. A view of the houfe, from a drawing taken by Mr. could notdifcover that Digby, lord Gerard, had any fon. He John Tudor, is given on the fame plate with thjfe of Wern« efpoufed fecondly, F.lifabcth, daughter of Charlcslord Gerard, dec, Perthtr, and Treowen. of Brandon in Suffolk, and car! of Maccleineld, ds ing in 1711 3 * 3 42 c A P P E N D I X.— N» 16. N° 16.— P A P E 11 S relative to the TRADE OF C H E P S T O IV, (referred to in p. 360J (Communicated by the late Thomas Irving, Efq. Infpedtor General of the Exports and Imports.) The Number of VESSELS, and their Tonnage, with the Number of MEN ufualiy employed (including their repeated Voyages) which entered and cleared Coaftways in the Port of CHEP&TQVV, and in the Member Port of NEWPORT, from 1791 to 1797 indulive. CHEPSTOW. NEWPORT. r Years. 1 s W A R D S. Years. 0 U T W A R D S. ^ : /- j 1 Years I N W A R D S. OUTWARDS. ' V'eff. Tons. Men. VefH Tons Men. VeflT. Tons. Men. Years. Vefi". Tons. Men. 270 15,898 i 5 379 1791 457 26,378 2,465 I791 202 10,580 898 1 79 1 247 1 2,349 1,05 I 1792 412 25,152 2,281 1792 65^ 38,102 3,6oo 1792 188 7>4H 732 1792 3°4 13,734 1,183 1/93 306 18,723 2,253 1 793 560 31=9-3 3,Ol6 1 793 189 9,185 827 1793 291 •4,507 1,189 389 23,528 2.166 r 794 518 32,803 3,2 17 1794 190 9>3°5 841 179A 258 12,776 i, c 75 »79> l?c,f> 372 23,080 1,981 iws 1 _ f 3 89 24,866 2,178 295 12,190 i,oz 3 1795 243 1 1,607 990 463 27,813 2,303 43! 29,352 2 ,497 1 797 > J 5 29,205 2,732 l 797 31,016 2,610 * # * No return from this Port later than 1795. TRADE OF CHEPSTOW. The Number of Vessels, with their Tonnage and Number of Men, including their repeated Voyages, that have entered Inwards and cleared Outwards, at the Port of CHEPSTOW, from 1791 to 1797. INWARDS. I 791. 1 " n'y 1 / 1 "nj 1 > yi' T 7^1/1 I / 94. 1 / J } • I 7o6. 1797. PR T T T ^ T-T VESSELS. Veff. Tons. Men. VefT. Tons. Men. Veff Tons. Men. Veff. Tons. Men. Veff. Tons. ! 1 Men. Veff Tons. Men, Veff. Tons. Men. ' Denmark - - 2 3 10 - q ■» 1,119 63 Ruflia .-- PrulTia _ _ • Portugal - - - 3 2 709 308 180 - 9 5 2 2,267 1,171 180 97 5° 1 2 - i,oo3 - - 4 1 837 71 44 6 1 266 1 1 Spain - - - Ireland - - States of America 3 247 - 6 616 36 8 2 73' 5° 20 1 191 3. 8 -S 15 229 20 1,998 1 14 3 8 4>°73 241 23 2,70b 151 Total of _ I 4 2 2,706 RnlT KU \. '.754 3 1 5>35s 50 2 208 1 20 4>9 S 4 294 2264 125 ~8 2J.I 151 Shipping J FOREIGN VESSELS. Denmark States of America 3 2 360 33* 320 19 1 180 1 1 2 410 ^4 _ 2 320 ** Spain - 1 130 Total of ") Foreign K 6 82$ 2 320 r 9 1 180 1 1 2 410 24 320 23 Shipping J OUTWARDS. 1791. I792, 1793- '794 '79i>' 1796. 1797- BRITISH VESSELS. Veff. Tons- Men. Veil' Tons- Men. Veff. Tons. Men. Veff Tons Men. Veff 1 Toi.s Men. V.ff Tons Men Veil Tons Men. Ruffia - - - 1 2 35 '3 Pruffia - - - 1 303 1 2 Portugal - - - 1 120 9 Ireland - - - 117 8,498 120 9,961 559 88 476 "5 8,119 57» 89 7,224 439 118 9>79' 599 9' 7)434 439 Brit. Cont. Colonies 1 269 13 Ifle of Man 1 3 1 Total pf "J f ■ « 1 British > 1 iS 8,529 1 20 9,961 559 9' 8,167 514 116 8,239 5*7 89 7,224 439 118 9>79> 599 9 1 7,13 439 Shipping J FOREIGN VESSELS. Denmark - - 2 410 24 3 32c 2 S 1 18: 1 1 1 120 9 States of America 1 199 Holland - - - 1 1 20 Total of "J Foreign > 2 319 1 lSo 1 1 1 120 9 2 41c 2 4 3 320 23 Shipping J 43<> A P P E N D I X.— No. 15. An ACCOUNT of the Species and Quantity of FOREIGN MERCHANDIZE IMPORTED into the Port of CHEPSTOIF, from 1 79 1 to 1 797 inclulive. SPECIES o r GOODS. 1791. Quantity. Aftes Pearl and Pot - - Cwt. qr. lb. Bell Metal - - Ctot.qr.il. Books - Civt. or. lb. BottlfS Glafs - Doz. N°. Cables ... Civt. qr.ih. Capers .... - lbs. Cattle, Cows and Oxen - No. Swine - No- Corn, Barley - - Sirs. bujh. Oats - - S^rs. bujh. Cordage - - Cwt. qr. lb. Cork - Ciut.qr. lb. Feathers for Beds Cwt. yr. lb. Fruit, Lemons & Oranges No. Grocery, Plumbs - - lbs. H;mp, Rough - Civt. qr- lb. Horns, Ox or Cow - No. Iron, B?.r - Tors. C. qr. lb. 09 Caft - Tons. C. or. lb. Pig - - - Tors. [Iriia, Plain - - Tunis — above 36 Inch. C. q. eJU Ruilia Towelling & N.ipkening C. qr. ells. Sail Cloth - C. qrs. elh. Linfeed Cakes Tons. C. qr. lb. Mats, Rjflia - - - No. Oakam - Tons- C. qr. lb. Oil, Sallad - - - Cu.lonu Onions - - - - Bupxls. Proviftons, Bread and Bifcuit - Civt. qr. lb. j Butter Cwt. qr. lb. Rags - Tors. Civt. qrs lb. Seeds, Linfeed - - B.fteis, Skins, Calf, Raw - Doz No. Tailow • - Civt. qr. lb. Tar - - - Lajls, Barrels. Wine, Portugal - T uns. H. G. "fattens - - C. qr. No. Batten EnJs C. qr. N-j. Boards, Paling C. qr. N. Deals - - Civt. No Deal Ends - C. qr. lb Firewood - - Fathoms. Handfpikes - C. No. Lathwood - Fatloms Marts, 6 to S Inches diam. - . No. - 8 to ir . . N 3 \ ' t2 and upwards No. & I Oars - - - C. iVb, Plank, Maple - t.dt.fett Oak - Lds. fa Pine - L, Is- feet. Rafters for Oars - C. N: Spars - - - C._N 30 . 2.21 183 .0.0 262.0 821 .2.12 I,0CO 96J ""1,238 18. 3 .24 7,500 Staves - Timber, Fir - Oak Ufers Wainfeot Logs Cwt. No. Lds. fett. Lds. felt. C. No. Lds. feet. 22 6.0.0 20 158.2. 58 32 . o. 10 2.0.0 5.3.1 225 2 . 7 4. I .28 O.O.I5 4'i 7» 38 4 1 . 30 2 .27 2.2. 19 317. 0.23 698.29 101.35 1.1 .6 xi.il 1792. ! 793- > 79+- »795- 1796. 1 797- Quantity. Quantity. Quantity. Quantity. Quantity. Quantity. — 15.0 . 5 _ — 0 . 3 6 QTJ. . I V T 1 3.3.16 94.8 . 0 . 20 2.3.10 a»74a • 3 3.0.0 51 . 1 .20 349 • 0 29 . 1 . 20 — 12 J OO 12 O.I.27 55 1,812 .1.17 1,205 • 2 • 8 250 .3.2.19 19,630 97 . 6 2.15 9 . 12 . 2 . 10 20 . 0 • 0 . 0 33-74° 1.2.2 1 60 . 14* 3 • 12 800 50.5.2. 16 2,720 9 . 14 .O . 19 I3,8o« 0 . 1 . 1 7 3.3.0.18 40 1.2.5 0.3.5 30 .0 .0.0 285 504 1 38 . 2. 26 6 . 0 . 0 . 27 6.0.2.16 243 - 3-9 6.0.0 0.2 185 . 1 . 57 70.0.13 21.3.0 552 . 1. 18 28. 3 . 4 0.3.6 555 62 . 0 403 . j . 16 T _ 0 17.8 25 .0.15 4.0. 0 152 . 0 . 3 62. so »5 I . O IQ . O . C2 1 30 .2.25 8 . 1 . 16 2 23 . 3 .c 13.0.0 135 . 2. 18 7-3-19 0 . 3. 18 ■MM — — 0.9 15 • I • 22 IO . 2 . 0 73-2- • 23 9 0 . 14 2.3-6 *7 42 6 3 2 16 16 . 2 60 Ids. ft. 16 . II 6 Ids. ft. t . II 0.3.22 0 . 1 . 24 8 .28 2.2.6 26 . 2 . 0 1,813 26 1 . 1 . 24 33 -4 2 3.1.0 0 . 1.25 183 . 3 . 2 263 . 12 I 1 . I I 0.0.18 44 • 9 1 . 2 . 26 0 . I . 24 0.2.6 40 . 0 TRADE OF CHEPSTOW. ACCOUNT of the SrnciES and Quantity of BRITISH and FOREIGN MERCHANDIZE EXPORTED from the Port of CHEPSTOJF, from 1791 to 1797 inclufive. SPECIES 1 79I. 1792. 1 793- 1794. '799- 1796. J 797- O F GOODS. Quantity. Quantity. Quantity. Quantity. Quantity. Quantity. Quantity. Apples - - - Bufl-. 7' 114 149 22S 69 E» k. Oik Tons. Ciut. qr.lb. 4, 028.0.0 0 4,765.15.0 0 3,838.17 0 0 4,33s. 18 0.0 3> 313.16 0.0 5,199 19 0 0 3,9 1 3-'5< JO Beer - Tuns H. C. 7 . 0 . 36 Brick* ..... iVo. 39,005 12,000 22,500 31,300 35>34° 35,000 4,800 Brals vV'ro 1 . - Ciut. qr. lb. 86 1.13 Ccal 1 ar Tons. Ciut. qr, lb. .0.0.0 Coiours for Painters Out q.lb. I . 2 . O Cyder - - Tuns. H. G. 23 0.18 215 . 1 . 37 103 . 1 . 26 .0 . 22 . 2 . 6 I 53 . a . 62 0.0. 34 Fruit, Walnuts - - A';. *""* 20,000 Glafs - - - Cwt. qr.lb. 80 . 0 . 0 3 • 0 ■ 0 — ard E. Ware - P'ucs. 1,200 Grindleftoncs Ts. Ciut. qr.lb 26 . 0 . 0 . 0 Hops - - - Our. qr. lb. 75 • * • 17 29.1. 2 7 7. 3 .C 6 . 2 . 12 Hoops, feVeral Sorts - Value £.115. 17 . 6 124-1° . 0 £■ 195 ■ J 7 ■ 0 I. 826 . 5 . 0 ,092 , 2 . c r ^. 1,074. 0 • 4 jL- 010 ■ 15 . 0 Iron, Bar Tins. Cut . qr. lb. 2 .5.0 ■ 0 9.2.3. 22 83 . 6 . 1 . c 7 . 10. 2 . 0 12 . I7.2. 24 . Nai's - Ciut. qr. lb. 506 7.0.0 Pig Torts. Ciut. qr. lb. 246 • O.O.O .0.0 . 0 71 7 . 10 . 0 . 0 871 .I9.O 0 739 .6.0.0 569. i • 0 . 0 I7I . IO . O . 0 . Plate T bus. Ciut. qr. it. '4 0 . 0 . 0 Wiie Tons. Ciut. qr. lb. 4 .0.0. 0 6 .S. 3 • 7 4.10.0 . 0 20 . I . 3 . 17 18 • 3 • 3 • 5 9 . 5 .0. 14 4.5.0. '3 Wrought Ts.Ciut. qr. lb. 107 .0.0.0 2,0.0 . 0 1 6.O.O. 0 Lead - Tors. Ciut. qr. lb. 4 4.2 • 7 14 . 17 . 2 . c Paper, Glazed Ciut. qr. lb. 9 • 1 . 6 56 . 2 . 24 Provisions, Checfe Ciut. q.lb. 7.0,0 13 . 0 . 0 24 . 0 • 0 101 . 0 0 15.0.0 Stones, Paving Ts. Ciut. qr. lb. 16 .0.0 .0 20 .0.0 . 0 18.0.0 . c 5.0.0 . 0 10 . 0 . 0 . c 10 . 0 . 0 ■ 0 Slate Tons. Ciut. qr. lb. 5- 10 . 0 0 Steel - - - Ciut. q> . 1!.. 5 '4 Sugar, Refined Ciut. qr lb. 1.2.0 Tin Plates Tons. Ciut. qr. lb. 22 . 10 .1 c 2 7 5 . 2 . 14 43 . 0 . 0 . ol Vinegar - - Turn. H. G. I . 0 . 60 r Brazil - Cut. qi . lb- 72 . 0 . 14 Elm Boards - Feet. 300 Fuflick - Ciut. qr. lb. 65 . 1 . 20 Logwood Ciut qr. lb. 39 . 2 . 9 Spokes for Wheds . A/o 2, coo 2,364 Timber, AiVTs. Ct. q.lb. 26 .O.O.O 70 . 0 . 0 . c .O.O.O 12 . O . O . O — Beech Ts. Ciut. qr. lb. 10 .O.O.O 30.0.0. C j 6 O.O.O 38 . 10. 0 . 0 — Elm& Plank Ts.Ct.q./b. 51 O.O.O 14 . 0 . 0 . 0 . O . O . C 2l6.O.0. O 23.0.0. 0 ^-—Oak&Planic Ts.Ct q.lb 339 .O.O.O 376 . 0 . 0 0 111. 0^0 c 405 . 10 . 0 . 0 64 .O.O.O 83 . 0 . 0 . 0 236 .0.0. 0 Tree-nails - - No- 6,coo 6,000 1 1,000 4,2CO 1 2,0. O N° 17. — Omijmi in Chapter 40, p. 397. TV/TARK WOOD, efq. the prefent proprietor of Piercefield, is the reprefentative of the ancient family of Wood, of Largo, in the county of Fyfe. His arms are, argent, an oak tree, eradi- cated proper, fruftuated or; creit, on a wreatn of his liveries, a fhip in full fail, proper, and fur- mounted by a motto, " Tutus in undis;" fupporters, two failors, caps and jackets vert, lappels, cuffs, and trowfers, argent*. Thefe arms are thus minutely fpecified, becaufe they were conferred on one of his anceflors^ Sir Andrew Vv ood, a Scottifh admiral, who was knighted by James the fourth, for a viftory obtained over the Englifh fleet. * Thefe arms are engraved on the plan of Piercefield grounds Heralds College of Scotland. , Extract from the matriculation of Wood, of Largo, in the A List of the Principal Books occafiomlly conjuhcd in the Courfe of this Publication. Antiquarian Repertory, 2 vols. 4to. Cambrian Regifter, 2 v. 8vo. Caradoc's Hiitory of Wales, tranflated by Powell, 8vo. Camden. — Gough's Edition, 3 v. fol. Churchyard's Worthines of Wales, 12 mo. Collins's Peerage, 9 v. 8vo. DucarePs Alien Priories, 2 v. i2mo. Dugdale's Baronage, 2 v. fol. Monafticon, 3 v. fol- with Supplement, by Stevens. Edmonfon's Baronagium Genealogicum, 6 v. fol. and Heraldry, 2 v. fol. Enderbie, fol. Fuller's Worthies, fol. Giraldus Cambrenfis, Iter Cambrire, i2mo. Godwin de Praefulibus Angliae, fol. Harris's Obfervations on the Julia Strata, and on the Roman Stations, Forts, and Camps in the Counties of Monmouth, Brecknock, Caermar- then, and Glamorgan. — Archa2ologia, vol. ii. Horlley's Commentary on Antonine, fol. Jones's Index to Records in the Exchequer, 2 v. fol. Lambarde's Dictionary, 4to. Leland's Itinerary, and Collectanea, 6 v. 8vo. Lives of the Fathers, principal Martyrs, and other Saints, 12 v. 8vo. Maddox's Hiftory of the Exchequer, 2 v. 4to. Nicholfon's Hiftorical Libraries, 4*0. Reynolds's Iter Britanniarum, 4to. Ricardi Corinenfis Monachi Weftmonafterien- fis de Situ Rrhtanniaz Libriduo: printed in Bertram's Britannicarum Gentium Hiftoriae Antiquas Scriptores tres. Rogers's Secret Memoirs of Monmouthflure. i8mo. Sandfordand Stebbing's Genealogical Hiftory, fol. Speed, fol Stowe's Annals, fol. Strange's Account of fome Remains of Roman and other Antiquities in Momnouthunre. — Ar- cfutologia, vol. v. » Remarks on the Reverend William Harris's Obfervations on the Roman Antiqui- ties in Monmouthfhire, and the neighbour- ing Counties of Wales ; with an Account of fome curious Remains of Antiquity in Gla- morganfhire. — Arc!. apologia, vol. vi. Stukeley's Itinera Curiofa, 2 v. fol. Tanner's Notitia Monaftica, fol. Williams's Hiftory of Monmouth (hi re, 4to. Willis's Hiftory of Mitred Abbies, 2 v. 8vo. Wood's Athenae Oxonienfes, 2 v. fol. Worceftre, Wilelmi de, Itinerarium, 8vo. Wyndham's Tour in Monmoutluhire and Wales, 4to. 433* Addenda to Chapter 34. Further Information concerning John of Kent ; communicated by Mi'. Owen. John of Kent was a favourite Poet among the Welfh, and there is fcarcely a Welfli MS. which does not contain fome of his Pieces. He may be clafled likewife among the early and eminent Lollards, as his Writings are filled with Doctrines hoftile to the Roman Catholic Religion; His boldnefs in consigning fuch opinions to writing would have expofed him to great danger, had he ufed a language more generally underftood. It is difficult to give a Catalogue of all his Works, which are extremely numerous ; the following Lift is compiled merely from the Index of the Welfli School MSS; Mr. Owen, is of opinion, that the author of thefe Pieces probably flouriflied between A. D. 1360 and 1430. A Lift of the Welfli Poetical Pieces by John of Kent, which are full preferved; The Three Periods of Life. The Trinity. The Creation. An Invitation to praife God for his Grace. To his own Purfe. The World. Shewing the Affli&ions of the World. A Lamentation for the Condition of the Welfli under Henry IV. On the World, with an Invitation to truft in God. The Uncertainty of the World. To the Proud and the Covetous. On the World. To God. On the World. The fame Subject. An Addrefs to God. Paraphrafe on the 21ft Chapter of St. Luke. The Mifer. On the Ten Commandments; A Divine Poem. The Day of Judgment. The Seven Deadly Sins. An Addrefs to the Deity. To the World. Againft Murder. A Satire on the Bards. An Anfwer to the above, by Rhys G09 Eryri. The Reprehenfion of the Clergy. The Mifer. The Prediction. The Three Mortal Foes. To Old Age. The Redemption. The Fall of Man, To the World. On the Life of Man; To the World; A Divine Piece. The fame Subiect. 3 I 5 433 Antiquities recently dij covered at Caerleon. SINCE the whole of this work was printed, I received from my friend Mr. Evans an account of lbme Roman antiquities recently found at Caerleon. They were difcovered by Mr. Gethin, mafter of the market boat to Briftol, who was building and repairing a houfe near the church yard, which he holds under the bifiiop and chapter of Landaff. In digging a faw-pit, the ftone N« I was difcovered In the beginning of June, and N os 2 and 3 in the month of September. N° l is of freeftone, of an oblong fhape, 3 feet bug, 1 broad, and I foot 9 inches thick ; it con- tained two "mfcriptions, one of which, on the broadeft fide, was defaced by the mafon employed to clean the ftone, and the other, on the narroweft, is only in part vifible. N°i. DEDICATV VRF OG ES VE NIO MAXIMOIE FVRPAN 8 C OS The only inference we can draw from this dilapidated infeription, is, that it was probably dedicated in the confulate of Maximus and Urinatus Urbanus, in the laft year of the reign of Alexander Severus. N os 2 and 3 are evidently two parts of one ftone, the dimenfions of which, together, are 9 feet in len°th, 19 inches broad, and 15 thick; mutilated inscriptions remain on the two fides; that on the broader fide, N° 2, appears to be a votive infeription by the fecond Auguftan Legion, and perhaps the other, N° 3, indicated the time in which it was erected. N N N° 3. D D AVGG vim GE NIO OCCB LEG PRCR 11 AVG EIML 1 N H°N° COS REIVMI'T CVR M VA VRSO F H AGTge I V EI : 1VS L h S C p p D D The plinth which formed the bafe of the fir ft flone was likewife difcovered, and as thefe ff ones were found within a few feet of each other, Mr. Evans conjectures that the whole formed a kind of pillar. * See Fafti Confulaies, in Dufre&ioy's Chronological Tables, vol. i. p. 219. 3 K INDEX. ABERGAVENNY, fituation of, 164. —Population, 425. — Adjacent mountains, 164. — The ancient Gobannium, 167. — Former and prefent flate, ibid. — Tra^e, 168. — Free fchool, 170. 182 — Ancient walls and Tudor's gate, 17c— Ruins of the caitle, ibid, — Hiftory of the caftle and barony, 173.— Pedigree of the early proprietors, 180. — Priory and churches, 182. Aberyfiiuitb, church and parifn, 247.—- See Jones. Abone,fee S:a Mills. Alutnan Street, iuppofed traces of, near Caerwent, Int. 20, and note. Alfred the Great, makes preparations to attack Caerleon, int. 8. Allgcods, inventors and manufacturers of the Pont-y-pool ware, 234. ■Altyrynys, an ancient font of the Cecils, 223. Antomne's Itinerary, courfe of the 12th and 13th Iters, and part of the 14th, Int. 15, 17, 18, and 20. Ar.hiteua. e of the Saxons and early Normans, Int. 27. — Gothic, introduction and progr* Is of, Int. 28. — Va- rious ftyles of in the ancient buildings in Monmouth- fhiie, Int. 28. Aricc/i.um, Int. 12. — fee Berry hill. Arthur. King, Int. 6, and 92. Audelcy, Hugh de, receives Newport caftle, bv marriage with Margaret, daughter ot Gi.bert the Red, earl of Clare, 5 I . Aureliut Ambrcfius, becomes fovereign of Britain, Int. 6. Avon Livjd, or Torvacn river, 1 16.— -Excurfion down the valley, 232. B. Bach, fon of Gwaithvoed, lord of Scenfrcth caflle, 328 —33°- Baderons, proprietors of Monmouth— fe Monmuuth caflle, Hiftory. Bakers, monuments of, in Abergavenny church, 191. BJadun, or Balun, Hamelne, builds the caflle of Aber- gavenny, 1 74. Bayly, Dr. account of, 147, note. Baffaleg church, 59. Beacon mountain, 25L Beauchamps, lords of Abergavenny— -fee proprietors of Abergavenny caflle. Beaitfba/np, 6ir William, Richard, earl of, and Henry- duke of Warwick, account of, 176 — 179. Beaufort, dukes of— -fee Somerfet. Bcdzvas church, 69. Begam, called the original feat of the Kemeys family, 61. Bellingftocke, or encampment of the Lodge near Caer- leon, the fite of an ancient Britifh town, 90. Berkleys, proprietors of Raglan caflle, 140^ Berry Hill, near Rofs, the fite of the ancient Ariconium, Int. 12. 22. Bertbolly Hcufe, an ancient feat of the Kemeys family, 37. Bet: us Newydd, 162. Bicknor, 11 cljb, church of, monumental effigies, 3 44.— Proprietors of, ibid.— Pedigree of the proprietors, 345. Bigods, earls of Norfolk— fee proprietors of Chepllow caflle. Bit ton, the fite of Traje&us, Int. 14, 15. Black Rock, 2. B.aen Avon, works and mines, 227. BleiUum, Int. 1 2— -fee Monmouth. Bletbin Broadfpear, lord of Lanllovvell, 122. Bioeis, proprietors of Raglan, 14.0. BLrcnge mountain, 164. Bobuns, earls of Hereford— fee proprietors of Caldccot caflle. Bohun, Humohrey, pedigree of his defendants, 21. Bovium, or B mium, fite of, Int. 18, vote. B.ujlays - fee proprietors of Penhow caflle. Bruofe, family oi — fe proprietors of Abergavenny caflle, and White caflle. Brecknock, canal, 48. St. Bride's church, 73. Brotbtr.un, Thomas de — fee Plantagenet. Buckinghi.tn, Henry duke of, receives the caflle of Cal- decot, 21. — beheaded, ibid. — His fon Henry duke of Buckingham beheaded, and Caldeca caflle forfeited to the crown, ibid, Bulhnoor, INDEX. Bullmoor, antiquities difcovered there, 120, De Burgh, John, receives the caftle of Ufk, White caflle, Grotmont, and Scenfreth, by marriage with Elifabeth, filler of Gilbert de Clare, 128. Burrium—fee Ufk. Bydnuellty Place, a feat of the Morgans, 260. — Church, 261. C. Cadivor Vanur, or the Great, anceftor of the Morgans, 65. Cadoc, St. an account of, 96, note. Caeluch, or Ky Hough, feat of theHughs's, and Powells — fee 427. Caerau, the refidence of the Rev. Mr. Evans, 56. Caerleon, the ancient Ifca Silurum, 60. — Derivaion of the name, 80, alfo, 417. — Deicription of by Gimldus Cam- brenfis, 80. — Remains of the Roman fortrefs, 8i. — Ro- man amphitheatre, or Arthur's Round Table, 84. — Sub- urbs, ibid. — Roman antiquities, 85—88 —Roman anti- quities lately difcovered, 433. — Caftle, ruins of, and other ancient buildings, 87. — Ancient encamp Tents in the vicinity, 89. — Suppofed feat of King Arthur's go- vernment, 92. — Hiftory of, fubfequent to the Ro- mans, 92 — Sites of the cliapels of St. Julius, St. Aaron, and St Alban, 95. — Church of Sr. Cadoc, or Lan- gattoc, 96. — Free fchool, ibid.—* Ciftertian abbey, 97. — Prefent ftate, population, and manufactory of, 100.— Bridge, 101. Caeriicyn — fet Encampments. Caervjeut, the ancient Venta Silurum, 24 — Walls, 25. — Roman antiquities, 26. — Proprietors of, 28. — Church, ibid. Caldecot Pill, probably the landing place of the Romans in Mcnmouthfhire, Int. 17. Caldecot caftle, ruins of, 18. — Hiftory and proprietors, 19. — Afligned to the crown, 20. — Annexed to the duchy of Lancafter, 21. Caldecot, church and priory, 22.— Level and Sea Walls, \z—fee Sewers. Camp/Ion— fee Encampments.— Houfe, 223. Campivood—fee Encampments. Canal of Monmouthftiire, 47. — Tonnage of for one one year, 415. Canal, intended, from Brecknock, 48. Cantdupe, William de, receives Abergavenny caftle, in dower with Eve, daughter of William de Braole, 175. fee alfo White Caftle, Grofmont, and Scenfreth. Canute, enters Gwent, and defeats Rytherch ap Jeftin, Int. 8. Cafnodyn of Gwent; an ode of, 407. Cajiell Italorum—fee Encampment at Lanhiddel, Cajlell Glas—fee Greenfield caftle. Caftlei in Monmouthftiire, Int. 10, 27. Caftleton, 63. Cecil family, 223, 267. Charles I. anecdote of his efcape of the New PafTage, 2. — Vifits Raglan caftle, 145. — YintsCampffon houfe, 2Z3. Charles I. and II. vifit the priory of Abergavenny, 321. Cbarfon, rock, or iflct, 1. Chepjlonu, fituation and population of, 357. — Extraordi- nary height of the tide, 358.— Bridge, 359. — Trade, fhipping, exports, and imports of, ibid — Coafting veflels, and tneir tonnage, from 1 79 1 to 1797, 428. — Vefl'els and tonnage in the foreign trade, from 1791, to 1797, 429 —Exports and imports, from, 1 79 1 to 1797, 43c. — Priory and church, 360. — Re- mains of the pr.ory of St. Kynemarc, and other reli- gious edifices, 363. — Remarkable well, 364 — Site of the ancient bridge, ibid, — Walls and c.iftlc, ruins of, 365. — Hiftory and proprietors, 366. — See Marten, Henry. Chn ft church, 39. — Curious fepulchral ftone, 40. Churches in Monmouihfhire, Int. 29. — Retain veftiges of the Roman catholic worfhip, Int. 30. Clare family— fee proprietors of Newport, Caerleon, Ufk, Raglan, and Chepftow cafilcs. — Pedigree of. 371. Clare, Richard, earl of, alTafiinated in the Coed y Gruny, 226. Clare, Richard, earl of Hertford, acquires Newport caftle by marriage with Amicia, daughter of William earl of Gloucefter, 5 1 . Clarence, Lionel, duke of, receives Ufk, by marriage with Elifabeth, daughter of William de Burgh, 128 — -. George, duke of, 179. Ctytha houfe and caftle, 158. Cobham, lord — fee Old caftle. Coed y Bunedd—fee Encampments. Coed y Caerau — fee Encampments. Coedy Prior, excurfion to, 269. Coldlrook Houfe, proprietors of, 270.— Situation, 280.— Portraits, ibid.— See Herbert and Williams. Coujiantine, railed to the crown of Britain, Int. 5. Cooke, Thomas, monumental infeription of, 243. Cor ides, 351. Courtfield, fuppofed nurfery of Henry V. 343. — Sts Bicknor, W e lfh: Craeg y Saefon—fee Encampments. Cracgy Gaercyd—fee Encampments. Crick village, 24. Crofs Pen Main, 262. Crumlin Bridge, excurfion to, 255. Cufoms of whitewashing the cottages, 261. — Of ftrewing the graves with flowers, Int. 30. — Of colouring the outfide of the churches, 29. Cv:m Mythve, 252. Cvjm Beeg, ibid. C-iv?»yoy, fituation of, 210. C-zvrty Gaer — fee Encampments. Cwrw, or Welfh ale, 260. D. St. David, Godwin's account of, 95, note.'— Chapel orl the Honddy — -jet hiftory of Lanthony. David ap Giuylim, patronized by Ivor Hael, 64.— Ac- count of, 408. — His ode to fummer, 409. Derry Hill, 206 — See Sugar Loaf. De/penfer, Hugh, feizes the caftle of Newport, 51. Dimetrc, territories of, Int. 3. Dmbam, village and caftle, 28, 29. Dtxon, church and encampment, Int. 22, and 349. 3 K 2 Do ward INDEX. ■Do-war J Hill, little, Int. 22, and 348. — Great, ibid. Drei's, of the mountaineers, 234.— Of the inhabitants of iiowy Vale, 248. E. Eb-ivy, river, 66. — Vales of, excurfions through, 246. Eduard, IV. born at U(k caitie, 1 30. Encampment! of Coed y Crafcl,and in the vicinity of Old- caltle, Int. 23, note. — Ancient, doubiful characters of, Int. 26, 27 — Roman, general farm of, Int. 26. — Of the Gaer,inTredcgai Dark, 5 8.— Cracgy SaefTon, 59. — Pen y Pare Newydd, 60. — Near Rumney, 63, note. — Of the l^dge in Lantarnam park, 90. — Of Penros, 91.— •Of Mayndee, ibid. — Of St. Julian's, ibid.— Of Craeg y Gaercyd, 134. — Of Campwood, ibid. — Of Coed y •Bunedd, ibid.— •Trevvyn, 222 —Of Campfton, 223. — At Lanhidael, 253. — In the vicinity of ChepUow, 366. — Coed y Caerau, Kemcys Folly, Caerlicyn, Gaer Vawr, and CWri y Gaer, 412. Xviias Vale—fee Lanthony abbey. F. Fairies, their exiftence believed in many parts of Mon- mouthfhire, 249, 250. 332, 333. Fitzhamon, Robert, conquers Glamorgan, 50. — Pedigree of his defendants, proprietors of Newport, ibid. Fitzbenry, Robert, earl of Glocefter and Briilol, receives the caftle of Newport, by marriage with Maud, daughter of Robert Fitzhamon, 50. — See alfo C'aerleon and Ufk. F . tccmu, Brien, 326. — See White caftle. 'Titzojbcrms, earls of Hereford— -fee Hi dory of Chepftow caitie. France/chine's holy family, in the pofleffion of Mr. O. Tador, App. 427. G. Gdsr, Brecknockfhire, th; fite of a Roman ftation, Int. 24. GasrHiU, Excurfion to the fummit of, 224.— -Jee Encamp- ments. Gaer Va Morg.innoc. Glamorgan Kd.vard, earl ul—Jte Somerlet. Gi'/t ovjer. O-ven, ravages Ufk, and is afterwards de- feated 127.-— Defeats the royal trooos at Craeg y irthj ji \. — Uncertainty rclp.:Cling ms burial place, 33 3. Glocifter and Rrijlol, -ruls of— fee N. wport caftle. Glocefter. and Hereford, earls oi—fe proprietors of Uik cait'e. 1 0 1 'er, Richard, duke of, afterwards Richard III. 179. atmiam—fee Abergavenny. G Idcliff, 42.— lliitory of the priory of, 4.3. odrich caftle, view of from the Wy, 342. Gr.ytre, 269. Grace Dicu abbey, 289.— Fac fimile of the feal of, 427. Craeg hill, 333. Greenfeld caftle, 72. Grofmont caftle, 334.— Befieged by Lewelline, prince of Wales, ibid. — burprife of Henry the third's troops at, 33?- Grofmont, church, 335. — Village, 336. — See Kent, John. Gruny, torrent, 225. Gunter family, 183, alfo 321, note. Gwent, an ancient appellation of Monmouthihire, Int. 7. App. 411. Giuentian dialeft— 'fee Welfh language. Gweruy Cieppa, the refidence of Ivor Hael, 63. Giuyn, fir, ap Gwaithvoed, 328. Gviyn, fir Rowland, pofTefTor of Pencoed, 33. H. Hadnock, 349. Hanbtiry family, account of, 235.— .Majcr, life of, 236. — Pedigree of, 244 — See Williams, Sir Charles, and Pont y Pool. Harold, compels the natives of Monmouthfhire to pay tribute, and builds a palace at Portfcwit, Int. 9. Haftings, lords of Abergavenny—^ Abergavenny caftle. — John, earl of Pembroke, &c. obtains Chepftow caitie, 373. — Lord of Abergavenny, monument of, 425. — Lawrence de, ibid. Henry II. anecdote relating to his conqueft of Wales, Int. 9, note. Henry, V. born in Monmouth caftle, 307. — Anecdotes of, ibid. Henry VII. when duke of Richmond, confined in Raglan caftle, 141. Herberts, etymology of the name, 203. — Family, origin of, ibid.'— Curious deed, relating to the pedigree, 42 r. -—Remarks on the genealogy, ibid. — Different branches of— fee Lanfanfraed, Proger and VVemdee, Powell and Perthir, Troy houfe, Jones and Treowen, Wonaftow, Hughs, and Caeluch. Herbert, William, firft earl of Pembroke, account of, 141. — Acquires Raglan caftle by marriage, ibid. — Re- ceives a grant of Caldecot caftle, zo. — Purchafes the caftle of Chepftow, 375.— William, his fon, religns the earldom of Pembroke, and is created earl of Hunt- ingdon, 142.— Elifabeth, his daughter and heirefs, marries Sir Charles Somtrfc t, 142 — Sir Richard, of Coldbrook, tomb in Abergavenny church, 1 86.— Account of his capture and execution, 1 87.— Sir James, fepuk ral infeription, 190.— Sir Richard, of Ewias, account of, 1 3 1 . — Tomb of, 189 — William, his fon, firft earl of Pembroke, of the fucottd branch, receives the caftle of Ulk, 131. — Pedigree of his defcendants, proprietors of Ufk caille, Hid. Herb.. -is, of St. Julians, acquire Newport caftle, cz. Herbert, Edward, lord, of'Cherbury, anecdotes of, 105. Hertford, earls of-— fee Hifto.-y of Caldecot and Newport callles. Hertford, earl of— fee Clare. HondJy, river, 209. ffoxvell, INDEX. He-well, Thomas, bifhop cf Briftol, anecdotes of, 284. — James, anecdotes of, 285- Hughes, family of, proprietors of Troftrey houfe, 162.— See Moinfcoort and Caelocb. Huntingdon, William, earl of— -fee Herbert. I. Iron Works in Men mouth (hire, progrefs of, 229.— Lift of, Int. 3, Ifca Saurum, Int. II. — See Caerleon. Jt.'on, valley of, 364. De P Ife, Bricn, inherits the caftle of Abergavenny, 174. J- Jafper de Hatfield, earl of Pembroke, &c. and proprietor of Abergavenny, 180. — Tranflation of his grant to the inhabitants of Landeilo Bertholly, &c. 427. Jones, family of— fee Lanarth, CI) tin, and Treowen. Jones's hiftory of the pnrifh of Aberyftwith, 249. Jones, William, founder of the free fchool and almshoufes at MonmouthJ 293. Jerzvcrtb, lord cf Caerleon, 98. Julia Strata, veftiges of, Int. 18. 24. 29.— Courfe of, from Bath, through Monmoiuhfhire, Int. 13. Julians, Sr. fuppofed fue of a Roman villa, 86 — Roman antiquities found there, ibid-— Refidence of lord Her- bert of Cherbury, 103. — Chapel, ibid. — Proprietors, Kemeys Folly, view from, 37.— Anecdote relating to, 121. — Houfe, a feat of the Kemeys family, ibid. — See En- campments. — Village, ibid. — Commander, 161. Kemeys, Sir Nicholas, furprifes Chcpilow caftle, 3 76.— Slain in defending it again ft the rebels, ibid. Kent, John, traditional account of, 336.— Probably a learned monk, 338. Ktbby, brook, 166. Kil/ant, an ancient feat of the Morgan?, 1 15, note. Kitcbln, Anthony, bifhop of Landaft*— fee Mathern. Kymin, hill and pavilion— -fee Monmouth. L. Lanarth Court, 159. — Church ; infeription to the memory of Elifabeth wire of William ]ones, efq. 423. Lanbaddoc church, 120. LancaJkrs Hiftory of the duchy of-— fee Hiilory of Mon- mouth caftle. Lancajler, duchy cf, pofleffions in Monmouthfhire, 327.— fee. Ca'.decot caftle, White caftle, Scenfreth, and Grof- mont. Landeilo, or L.mtilio, Bertholly, church, 205. — Tranflation of a curious gram, by Jafper de Hatfield, &c. pre- fixed there, App. 426. Landeilo Crejfeney, the refidence of Richard Lewis, efej. 2S3.— liouie, a (eat of the Powells, 284 — Portraits at, ibid. — Church, 287. — Benefactions of the Powells, 288. Lat/de-:-! Skyrrid, a feat of the Greville family, 198. Lanellen, 268. Langattoc, church of, at Caerleon, 96. Langibby Houfe, a feat of the family of Williams, 1 17.— Cattle, 1 1 ij.— Proprietors of, Hid. Lang; tinny, valeof, junction of Monmouth, Hereford, and Brecknockfhires, 225. Langua priory, 223. Lanhiddcl church, 252. — Encampment, 253. Lanllouel, the refidence of Blethin Broadipear, 122. Lanovcr Houfe, ancient refidence of the Prichards, the feat of Benjamin Waddington, efq. 265. — Church, 266.— Sepulchral inscriptions, 267. Lanfatfraed, refidence of James Greene, efq. an ancient feat of the Herberts, 155. — Proprietors of, ibid. — Church, 156.— Monumental infciiption of a branch of the Herbert family, 157. Lantarnam Hovfi, a feat of the Morgans, 1 15. Lantarnam abbey, veftiges of, 115. — Church, 116.— Proprietors of, ibid. Lantbony abbey, excurfion to, 209.— Ruins of, 210.— Hiftory, 2 1 3. Lantrijaint, 122. Lanvair caftle, 33. — Proprietors, 34. — Church and vil- lage, 35. Lan-vair Kilgeden, 1 60. Lan-vibangel Vcdw, church, 61. Lanvibangei Houfe, an ancient feat of the Arnolds, be- longing to the earl of Oxford, 198. Lanuacnarth hills, 206— fee Sugnr Loaf. Lanwern Houfe, the feat of Sir Robert Salufbury, bart. 41. Leidet Houfe, 325. Lewis, Dr. David, monument in Abergavenny church, 192. Lewis family, of St. Pierre, 6. — Pedigree, ibid. M. Machen Place, a feat of the Morgans, 67 — Vale, Hid.— Proprietors of, ibid. — Church, 68.— Hill, ibid. Magna, the fue of. Int. 23. Ma/pas church, 78. March, Mortimers, earls of— fee Langibby and Ufk. Marchers, lords, government of, Int. 10. Marjhall, William, earl of Pembroke, &c. inherits the poffeflions of Richard de Clare, furnamed Strongbo.v, by marriage with his heirefs liabella, 373 Account of, Hid. Marlhfield church, 74. Marten, Henry, the place of his confinement in ChepMcw caftle, 378. — Anecdotes of, 379.— Portrait of, at St. Pierre, 3. Matbem, ancient palace of the bifhops of Landaff, 7. Church, 8.— Account and infeription on Theodoric the fuppofed founder, ibid.— Bifhops who refided and died there, 10. St. Melons, church, 61. St. Mclo, or Meianius, account of, 61. Mdbome, family— fee Abergavenny priory, and Wonaftovv. Moinfourt, ii. — Roman inferiptions, 12. Monmouth, dcicription 0^290, — Charter and population, 291. — Trade of, ibid, — Caps, 292. — Free fchool and* aimlhoufes, 293.— Church of St. Mary, 294.— An- cient INDEX. cient priory, ilid. — Library of Geoffrey of Monmouth, 295.— Church of St. Thomas, 299. — Chippenham meadow, — Kymin, 300, 301. — Ancient Bleftium, Int. 12 and 302. — A Saxon fortrefs, 302. — Ruins of the caftle, ibid, — Hiftory, and proprietors, 304. — Pedigree of the proprietors of, 305. — Birth-place of Henry V. 307. — Caftle houfe, anecdote relating to, 3 » 3- . , . , * Monmoutbfiire, fituation and boundaries of, Int. I.— Principal rivers, ibid. — Members of parliament for, ibid — Divifions of, ibid. — Population, Int. 2. — Eccie- iiaftical divifions, ibid. — Languages, ibid. — Produc- tions, ibid. — Part of the territories of the Silures, Int. 3 —fee Gwent and Morgannoc. — Hiftory of, fubfe- qucnt to the Romans, Int. 4. — Princes of, extinct in the time of Henry II. Int. 7, 8, note. — Made an En- glish county by Henry VJ1I. Int. 10. Monnajw, river, 223. Montacules, earls of Salilbury, 344. — See Welfh Bicknor. Montaaite, Margaret de, lady of W elfh Bicknor, fuppofed nurfe of Hsnry V. 342. — See monument in Welfh Bicknor church. Montague, Sir Walter, proprietor of Pencoed, founds an holpital there, 33. M«*umetin, at Chriitchurch, 40. — Of the Somerfet family in Raglan church, 149. — In Abergavenny church, 185. —Of" major Hanbury, in Trevethin church, 242.— In Scenfreth church, 331. — In Welfh Bicknor church, 344. — Of Richard Sirongbo'.v, earl of Pembroke, in Tintern abbey, 352. — Of Henry, fecond earl of Wor- cefter, in Chepftow church, 362. — Of Henry Marten, in Chepftow church, 390. — Of lord Haftings, in Aber- gavenny church, conjectures on, App. 425. Monumental Infriptions, at St. Pierre, 5. — In St. Woolos church, 53, 54. — Of the Morgans, in Machen church, 68, 69. — In Aberyftwith church, 247. — Of Elifabeth, wife of William Jones, efq. of Clytha, App. 423, 424. Moore, Sir Richard, proprietor of Pencoed, 32. Morgan family, account of, 66.— Pedigree, ibid.— fee alfo, St. Pierre, Pencoed, Lantarnam, Machen, Ro- gefton, Penllw) n and Bydwellty. Morganncc, or Siluria, deed relating to the boundaries of, App. 41 1, 412. Morley, Sir John, proprietor of Raglan caftle, 139. Morris, Valentine, proprietor of Piercefield, anecdotes of, 39=- Mortimers earh of March— -fee Caerleon, Langibby, Ufk. Mortimer, Edmund, earl of March, receives Ufk, by marriage with Philippa, daughter of Lionel duke of Clarence, 129. — Account of, 128. Mortimer, Sir Edmund, taken prifoner by Owen Glen- dower, 129. Mountbern-.en—fee Bicknor, Welfh. Mcunton, valley, 364. Mowbrays, dukes of Norfolk, proprietors of Chepftow caftle, 375. — John fells the calUe of Chepftow to Wiiliam Herbert, earl of Pembroke, Hid. Mnyle, fore ft of, 225. My*ydd Maen, 255. N. Nant y Glo, 2 50. Nevilles, lords of Abergavenny caftle, pedigree of, 181.— ■ fee Abergavenny caftle. Neville, Richard, earl of Warwick, 179. Nenu Pajfage, 1. — Supprefiion of the ferry of, by Oliver Cromwell, 2. Ne-wcafle, lingular oak and fpring, 332. Newport, 45. — Etymology of, ibid. — Ancient and prefent ftate, ibid — Charter, 46. 413. Trade, 46. — Account cf the coafting vefiels and their tonnage, from 1791 to 1795, 428. — Canal, 47. — Remains of the ancient walls and murer.ger's houfe, 48. — Caftle, 49.— Hiftory and proprietors, 50.— Church of Sr. Woolos, 52.— Anecdote on the building of the tower, 54. — Ancient religious eftablifhments, 56. Nidus, fite of, int. 18, note. Norfolk, earls of—fe Bigod Norfolk, dukes of—jee Mowbray. Normans, acquire the ltrong holds of the Saxons in Mon- mouthfhire, Int. 9. — Complete the conqueft of Mon- mouthfhire, ibid. O. OlJcaflle, excurfion to, 220.— Suppofed to be the ancient Blellium, 221. — Oldcajile, Sir John, lord Cobham, character of, ibid. Old Court, the rcfidenceof Sir David Gam, 288. Ordovices, territories of, Int. 3. O-veruuent, conquered by Brien Fitz Count, 326. Owen Wan, or the feeble, lord of Caerleon, 98. P. Pagan, Sir Robert, proprietor of Lanvair caftle, 34. Pant y Goitre, 157. Parker's Due, or Pare 'ras Dieu, 289. Paffage, New, 1.— Anecdote of the fuppreflion of by Oliver Cromwell, 2. Pembroke, earls oi—fee Strongbow, Haftings, Herbert, Marfhal. Pen y Pure Ncwydd—fee Encampments, 60. Pen y Vale — fee Sugar Loaf. Peneamavur, view from, 35. — Ridge of, defcribed, 37^ Pencoed caftle, ruins of, 32. — Proprietors of, 33. Pcnbow caftle, 30. — Church, 32. Ptnlkwyn Houfe, a feat of the Morgans, 259. — Family portraits at, ibid. Penros, probably the fite of a Roman villa, 86.— fee Encampments. Pertbir, a feat of the Herbert family, 314. — Proprietors of, 317. Petcrjlon church, 73. Piercefield, a feat of the family of Walters, 392. — Pro- prietors of, ibid.-~ Houfe, 397. — Grounds, 399. St. Pierre Houfe, the feat of the Lewis family, 3.— Church, 4. — Monumental infeription, 5. Planlagenet, or de Brotherton, Thomas, proprietor of Chepftow caftle, 374.— Pedigree of hie defendants, ibid. Pont INDEX. Pont y Pool, fuuatlon of, 253. — Etymology, Hid. Note. Ware, or Japan manudtraure, 234. — Park, the feat of the Hanbury family, 239.—^? Hanbury.— Collection of pictures, 239. — Grounds, 241. — Church, 242. Portfcwit, 16. — Deftrudtion of the palace of Harold at, 17. — Called in the Triades one of the three ferries of Britain, Int. 17. — Encampment at — fee Sudbrook. Po-vell—J'ee Landeilo, Caeluch, and Perthir. Prichard family, proprietors of Lanfanfraed, 267. Progers, a branch of the Herbert family, 204. Proper, Mr. anecdotes of, 205. 3 16. R. Raglan Cafile, ruins of, 1 36. — Splendid eftablilhment of the marquis of Worcefter, 140. — Hiftory and pro- prietors, ibid. — Siege by the parliamentary army, 146. — The library deftroyed, 149 — Church, ibid. — Tombs of the earls and marquis ot Worcefter, ibid. Rail Roads, defcribed, 230. Richard of Cirencefters Itinerary, courfe of, II, 13, and 14 Iters of, Int. 15, 17, and 20. Ricbttrd, III. born at Ufk callle, 130. Rifca, fituationof, 258. Roads, in Monmouthfhire, anecdote relating to, 14.— • From Penhow to Newport, 39. — Newport to CaerdifF, 58. 63. — From Newport to Caerleon, 78. — From Caerleon to Ufk, 120. — From Abergavenny to Blaen Avon, 231. — From Blaen Avon to Pont y Pool, 232.— From Ponty Pool to Abergavenny, 264. — From Aber- gavenny to Monmouth, 283. — From Chepftow to Monmouth, 324. Roberts family, infeription to in Abergavenny church, 19* Rcgejion caftle, an ancient feat of the Morgans, ruins of, 70. Rolben hill, 165. — Excurfion to, 206— SV* Sugar Loaf. Romans, conquer the Silures, Int. 4. 11. Roman ftations and roads in Monmouthfhire, Int. 11. Roman antiquities, Int. 19, note.— -fee Moinfcourt, Caer- went, Newport, Caerleon, Tredonnoc. Rood Loft, Int. 30. Rofs, 340. Round Table, order of, 93. Rumney, river, the weftern boundary of the county, 61.— Church, 62. — Etymology of the word, 63. Rutnfey family, zGj.—fee Trelech. Runfon, ruins of, 13. S. Ad Sabrinam, a Roman port, Int. 16. Salijbury, countefs of— fee monument in Welfh Bicknor church, 344. Salmon weir defcribed, 126. Saxons, invited to Britain by Vortigern, Int. 5. — Attack the Britons, ibid. — Compel the princes of Wales to become tributary, Int. 7. — Conquer the principal parts of Monmouthfliire, Int. 9. Scenfretb caftle, 329.— Church, 331. Scabies, William de, proprietor of part of Caerleon, 98. Sea Mills, thefue of Abone, Int. 14. 16. Sea Walls— fee Caldecot and Wentloog levels, 71. 416. Sewers, conltitution of the court of, 416. Seymour family— -fee Penhow and Trelech, $0. Silures, territories of, Int. 3. — Conquered by the Ro- mans, Int. 4. 11. Siluria — fee Morgannoc. Skyrrid, defcribed, 165. — Height, 166. — Excurfion to its fummit, 197. — Little, excurfion to the fummitof, 207. Somcrfts, earls and marquiftes of Worcefter and dukes of Beaufort, origin of the family, 142. Pedigree, — Sir Charles, firft car! of Worcefter, account of, ibid. — Acquires Raglan and Chepftow caftles by marriage, 143. — Henry, firft marquis of Worcefter, anecdotes of, 144. — Edward, earl of Glamorgan, fixth earl, and fecond marquis of Worcefter, account of, 150. — Henry, firftduke of Beaufort, proprietor of Monmouth caftie, 313;— and of Troy houfe, 3 19.— -fee Raglan, Monmouth caftle, and Troy houfe. Sor-ivy Vale, excurfion through, 259. Stafford, Edmund, earl of, anceftor of the dukes of Buck- ingham, acquires Caldecot caftle by marriage, 20. Stafford, Ralph, earl of, obtains Newport caftle, by mar* nage with Marg'aret, daughter of Hugh de Audeley, Staffords, dukes of Buckingham— fee Newport and Caer- leon. Stanton, in Glocefterftiire, probably a Roman fettlement, Int. 22.— Upper and Lower, near Lanvihangel, Int. 24. 209. Stradling family, pofteflbrs of Rogefton caftle, 71. Stri^uil caftle, belonging to the family of Clare, 36.— Erroneous opinion relating to the name, 38. Striguil, or Chepftow— -fee Chepftow, priory and caftle. Strongbow, Gilbert and Richard, earls of Pembroke, 37 37 2 — > a,r ° 3 6 - Sudbrook, encampment, 15. — Chapel, 16. Sugar Loaf, fituation of, i64.- i -Height, 1 66.— -Excurfion to the fummit of, 195. — Four hills, which form the bafe, 206. T. Tbeodoric, St. buried at Mathern, 8. — See Mathern. Ap Thomas, Sir William, 186. Tibia Amnis, a Roman poll on the banks of the Taafj, Int. 18. Tintcrn abbey, ruins of, 352.— -Founders and patrons of, 354- Trajedus—fee Bitton, Int. 14. Traygruck, or Tregregg, 118.— See Langibby. Tredegar Houfe, the feat of the Morgan family, 64.-— Family portraits, 65. Trelech, Druidical ftones, 322. — Mufical well, 323.— Pedeftal, ibid.— The refidence of the Seymours and Rumfeys, ibid. — Church, 3Z4. Tredonnoc church, Roman infeription, 122. Treo-iven, a feat of the Jones's, 317. Treuetbin church, 242. Trofrey forge, 160. — Houfe, the feat of the Hughs's, 162. — Church, ibid. Troy Hcufe, an ancient feat of the Herberts, 317.— -Pro- prietors of, 318.— Collection of portraits, 319. Twydecy INDEX. Twydet, feat of William Dinwoody, efq. 201. n Barhum, excurfion to, 75.— Tumulus and entrench- went, 75 — Profpect from, 76. U. Unify, 30, note. Uriocoeium, Int. 1 1 .—fee Wroxetcr. vale of the, 123. — Vale of, 123, note. — Town, fuuation of, 124. — The ancient Buirium, Int. 11. 124. — Prefent llate, 125. — Japan manufactory, ibid.— Charter, 126. — Caftle, ruins of, 127.— Hiitory, ibid.— Pedigree of the early proprietors, to Richard ill. 130. — Church, 132. — Infcription, ibid.— Various explana- tions, 418. — Priory, 133 — Prifon, formerly a Roman catholic chapel, ;A/V. — River, 166, Inundations of, 161. 268. V. Van family, Pedigree of, 41. Vaughan family, proprietors of Welfh Bicknor, 346. Venta Silurum—fee Caerwent, 24. Vortigern, becomes fovereignof the Britidi tribes, Int. — Invites the Saxons to protect him from the Pids and Scots, ibid. — Uncertain accounts of his death, Int. 6. W. Wales, limits of, under Roderic the Great, Int. 7. Wallingfrd, Brien i—fee Hiitory of Caerleon, and Ufls cattle. t r'mted ly Luke ttanjard, Great 'furrjfUt, l.h.eo'n's-lnn Fields. BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 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