TRAVELS THROUGH THE SOUTHERN DEPARTMENTS OF FRANCE. PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1804 AND 1805 . By a. L. MILLIN, MEMBER OF THE NATIONAL INSTITUTE, OF THE LEGION OF HONOUR, OF THE LINNiEAN SOCIETY OF LONDON, &;c. &c. &c. TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH. ■ I I I _ I I I.J.I , Ii ij , !■. .!■ ■! I ■' ■iiL.tl .■■Ufir!!""* ■”JLi LONDON: PRINTED FOR RICFIARD PHILLIPS, 6, bridge-street • blackfriars, Bi/ J, C, Barnard, 57, Snoto-hill. 1808 . Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with funding from Getty Res, earch Institute https://archive.org/detailS/travelsthroughsoOOmill -AUTHOR’S PREFACE, IT may perhaps be supposed that this Work is en- tirely devoted to a description of^ the antiquities ot the South of France, but, on perusing my first chap- ter, which will render a long Pre&CP unnecessary, it will be seen that I have paid attention to every subject worthy of notice which I met with in the course of my journey. It was my wish to enable the Reader to become acquainted, by means of this Work alone, with every object of curiosity in the fine countries through which I passed, and I have, in consequence, pointed out such things as will be worth the attention of tra- vellers who may pass over the same ground. I have successively described all the circumstances that fell under my observation ; and how various tliey were will be seen from the heads of the chapters. Of such as are well known I have only given brief notices, but have referred the Reader to those works. in which he will find them described at length ; but, on the other hand, I have given, in an elaborate manner, such as have never been described or published. As many Readers are anxious to know the formiila3 of the lapidary style, that they may understand the adulation and testimonies of gratitude of the people towards their deceased benefactors; or the afiecting expressions of conjugal love, maternal tenderness, A 2 IV lilial piety, or friendly regret, I have copied and plained a number of fine and unpublished inscriptions, from which they cannot fail to derive much gratifi- cation; while such readers as are not partial to this kind of study, may turn over the page, and pass to subjects with which they will be pleased. The tour which I performed was very extensive. I began my observations on setting out from Paris, and finished them on my return to that capital. I took the road to Lyons, by way of Fontainbleau, Sens, Auxerre and Avalon, where I turned aside to survey the ancient Biirgund}", passing through Se- mur, Montbard, and Dijon. Instead of returning by the ordinary way oV I ^fent across to Cussy-ia-Colonhe, and and arrived at Lyons by descending the ’ Oa following course of the PJioiic, I stopped at ano eoiiecJ-ed tfie particulars of every interesting spot; after which I visited the coast, and went to luinon, Hyeres, Saint Tropez, Frejus, Antibes, Nice, Cimiez, Monaco, and Menton, with the description of vvhich last-mentioned town the preset portion^ of my work will be fom:d to ciose^. The remaining halt, which will shortly appear, will comprise t le ac- count of mv return to Marseilles, thiough toe mountainous" towns of Upper Provence ; _ thence to Tours and its environs, and hnally to Fans, by way of Orleans and Etampes. Eesides my own^remarks, I hav'C consulted the works of all the autnois wdio liave. heretofore written on the subjects which came under my examination. The present portion of the work consists of two octavo volumes. ^ ^ Editok. TRAVELS THROUGH the SOUTHERN DEPARTMENTS OF FRANCE. CHAPT'er I. Causes of tae jotjeAney — preparations and dcpar- TURE—ACCOUNT OF VILLEJUIF ITS PYRAMID, &C. JUViSY CO?tBElL — ^-ESSONE. The. serious studies to which 1 had long applied myself having nearJ'y destroyed my health, and being extremely weak in conse- ?04, we left Paris, llie part from which we set off is ode of the most dirty and disagree- able of the city ; and wdien foreigners enter this w^ay, they adopt an unfavourable opinion of it, but by following these narrow' and filthy streets, they are the more struck w hen they comeiu sight of the tine quays and beautiful bridges, as w'eil as the majestic palace of the Louvre, now the focus of the arts. Before passing the barrier, the eye rests with complacency ou that Hue edifice consecrated by Louis XIV". to astronomical studies, and the imagination of man assumes a degree of consc- ience on reflecting that, in thvs place his cotemporaries have, a$ s MILLIn’s TKAVELS in FRANCE. it were, compelled the lieaveas' to open before them, and display their sublime secrets. The gate at which you go out in this quarter, is one of the least singular which have been constructed by that consequential architect who presumed to deviate from the rules of art, and adopt a system of his own. Poets and artists assume the right of taking liberties ; but true genius is modest without bein^ pusila- nimous ; and in the arts,, as well as literature, those who have at- tempted to depart from the severe precepts established by taste and reason, have always excited surprise, but never admiration ; for they have in fact imitated nobody, and their works w’ili never serve as models for others ; they ought to be compared to those who, in times of ignorance and barbarism, attempted to execute -works, the beauties of which have been admired, but the defects attributed to the age in which they were produced. Such inno- vators, however, cannot be placed amongst the ranks of those great masters, who have brought the arts to perfection, and fixed their limits. We quitted on the left the road which leads to the ancient royal castle of Choisy, as well as to a great number of charming country houses, agreeably situated on the banks of the Seine. Farther to the right is the road to Orleans, and between that and the one which we followed, rubs the little river of Bievre, which receives its name from the river of Gentilly, after passing through two villages, called the Little and Great Gentilly. But if you stray along its banks, do not proceed as far as Bicetre, as you wall then avoid the disgusting* appearance of those saline waters which there mix with the rivulet. It is nevertheless asserted that it is to this mixture the manufactories of the Gobelins are in- debted for the excellent colours with which their articles are dyed. Before arriving at the first post, we passed to the riglit the castle of Bicetre, which, by being situated at the extremity of the avenue, produces a bne effect. There have been constructed in the valley several locks for the aqueduct, which passes to i\rcueil ; and the young poplars which surround them give to each the ap- pearance of a tomb ; while the whole place may be taken as a resemblance of Elysium : but the mind, which is always ready to yield to impressions of gentle melancholy, is soon rendered sor- rowful by the redection that this Castle forms the residence of criminals; that the wu'etches W’ho are detained in it, instead of amending their conduct, which led them to commit robberieiS and murders, impart thi-ir criminal propensities even to pupils, who scarcely ever care to come beyond its w ails, unless to practise the lessons they have received. But let us pass from this residence of depravity and crime, tliough not without paying a tribute of ROMAN ANTlOUITJfiS NEAR RARIS. 9 esteem to the philosophical physician, who has overcome the dis- gust which such a place inspires, in order to study the most cif- flicting of diseases; it is here, by constant attention, and a mode of treatment adapted to every sort of madness, that the learned Pinel has been able to prove that insanity is not incurable. Before we changed horses, vve could not fail to pay attention to i\rcueil, which is the only spot in the environs of Paris in which any remains of Roman buildings are to be found ; and here w'e see their remarkable manner of building by alternate layers of brick and stone, whlcb enables tis to form an idea of the excel- lent composition of their cement; but in order to observe the an- tique portion which still subsists, we must not only examine it outside by the road, but inn^st enter the farm of Cachant, w'hich belongs to M. de Cambry, an eshinable literary charac- ter, formerly prefect of the department of Oise. The Count de Caylus has published an engraving of this portion of tlie ancient aqueduct ; the superb modern one w^as built from the designs of the celebrated Jacques de Brosse, by order of Queen Mary de Medicis, for the purpose of conveying to Paris the waters of l^Lingy. The first relay is at Villejuif, where the precinct terminates. Here the word tozon ( ville ) does not signify, what is meant, in the ordinary sense, a large and fortified place, but has the same accep- tation as the Latin word villa, of which it is the translation ; thus we say Romainville, Bellville, Fill-Neilve, Ville (VAvre, &c. Some people pretend to derive this name from Villa JudcCa, and hence it has been concluded that ViUejuif was an ancient residence of Jews ; but it appears that the name of Villa Jiidcea, which was used in the appellations of the thirteenth century, has originated from a false opinion, w’hich arose out of the corruption of the word Ville Jude^ or ille Juliette, being the name of a saint whose relics w^ere revered in that spot; but the idea that the Jews, enriched by usury, hpd acquired nearly all the domains in this part, and that several of them were burnt here, has so far prevailed, that, in the maps and modern itineraries, this burgh is called Bille-Juif. The Abbe l.ebeuf says that Caesar, finding he could not ap- proach Lutetia, on account of the swamps at that lime formed by the Bievre, conducted his army to Melun, ascending by Ville-Juif and Essone. The learned Canon of Aiixerre liere commits a small error; for it w'as Labienus w'ho, with four le- gions, at that time besieged Paris ; and C;esur was then on the banks of the Loire. We now got out of the chaise to take a parting view of Paris, and at this spot we saw the whole extent of that capital : the coup- d'ivil which was afforded by the immense collection of bla»:k- MILLIN.] B 10 MILLIN’s travels IN’ FRANCE. -looking stone buildings and irregular steeples, was singular. The most proper point for enjoying this view is between the terrace of the castle and the pyramid, which was erected here to indicate the line, through which passes the meridian. We are here at such a high elevation, as to be able to distin.guish every thing ; though it is pretended by some people that this road is on a level with the summit of the towers of Notre Dame. The plain of Ville-Juif is entirely corn-fields, but the environs of the village consist of vineyards and orchards. Between this village and Essone we cross a plain, which has received the name of Longboyau^ because the trees which have been planted along the road, run in a direct line to the extent of three leagues, and make an allee, which, of course, extends farther than the eye can reach. The soil is sandy, and bad in every respect. To the right of this road are the ruins of La Saussaie, an old abbey of Benedictines. At the extremity of this long avenue is the village of Fromen- teau, at which we changed horses. Here we went to examine the second pyramid, erected, like that at Ville-Juif, to mark the meridional line. We saw ourselves surrounded by a rich country, covered with parks and fine residences, by villages which indicate competence, animated by an abundant and varie- gated cultivation, bordered by the Sieiie, which winds to the left, and intersected by rivulets, which dispense general fertility ; so that the whole affords a most interesting prospect. At some distance from Ville-Juif, near Rungy, at which are the springs that are conducted to Paris, by the aqueduct of Arcueil we enter the department of the Seine and Oise. Shortly after we arrived at Juvisy, a place little known in history; it is only iiientioned that the Dauphin, Charles VII. on proceeding toMelun, to suppress the faction of the Burgundians, was at- tacked here by the Duke of Burgundy, who forced him to return to Paris. But if this burgh has not been the scene of great events, it nevertheless deserves the attention of travellers, on ac- count of the works which have been executed there to lead to the great road. Formerly carriages passed through the village of Juvisy with much danger and extreme difficulty, on account of the steepness of the ascent ; still at last it was resolved to make a better road. The one upon the new plan was to pass also through Juvisy, but the Lord of the Manor refused to let it run through his park, and the great road was, in consequence, marked out at a small distance from the village, whjch has proved very inju- rious to tile iiihabi:aiits. This grand work was begun in 1722; they undermined and opened the mountain, and, in order to unite the two hills, between whicli passes the little river of Orge, a work has been constructed which is both stupendous and DOUBLE BRIDGE AT JUVISY. 11 singular; it consists of two bridges, placed one above another ; the hrst, which consists of seven arches, serves only to support the soil of the two hills ; but upon it is built another bridge, which has only one arch, and over which runs the great road. Ihis public w ork, worthy of the time of the Romans, was finished in 1728 . While they were cutting through the rock, they struck out a spring, which created great inconvenience, but they resolved to turn it to the embellishment of the bridge; they therefore con- ducted it by canals to the intended spot, where they made it pro- duce two fine fountains, w'hich were called the Fountains of Juvisy. These fountains are embellished by groups; one of them, by Coustou, jun. representsTime,who holds a medallion of Louis XV. ; but the portrait of the monarch has been defaced; the other is composed of children, who support a globe, on wdiich were tiie arms of France. These groups are badly executed. Lach of the fountains is embellished with a large reservoir, and ornamented with a tabiature, which contains the following in- scription, but of w hich only the last two lines are legible : LUDOVICUS XV. REX CHRISTIANISSIMUS , VIAM HANG DIFFIGILEM ARDUAM AC PENE INVIAM, SCISSIS DISSECTISQUE RUPIBUS, EPLANATO COLLE, PONTE ET AGGERIBUS CONSTRUCTIS, PLANAM ROTABILEM ET AMCENAM FIERI CURAVIT. ANNO M. DCC. XXVIII. These fountains are now unfortunately dried up, but the spring might be easily found again, and their re-establishment w ould be a great public benefit; for no traveller formerly passed them with- out stopping to drink and w'ateringhis horse. The little river Orge, which runs beneath this bridge, takes its rise near Dourdan ; passes to Arpajon, after receiving the Ivette atSavigny ; and then divides into several branches near Ju- visy, before it fiow'S into the Seine above Petit-Mons. Gregory of Tours speaks of one of the bridges which were built over this river, in away to induce the idea that, in the year o82, it sepa- rated the kingdom of Chilperic, in w hich Paris w’as comprised, from that of Gontran, the capital of which was Orleans. After crossing the bridge of Fontaines, w^e enjoyed on both sides the most agreeable view's, as w'e belield Senard, Draveil, Chatn- pi osais, and Viri, a commune, the excellent cheeses of which are so much [Raised by epicures; and Petit-bourg, a place which was tnrmerly so much esteemed by the illustrious Princess, Madame B 2 12 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN TRANCE. de Bour'bQn. Tlie traveller should here stop a little, to con- teinpiate the results of industry, the beauties of nature, and the instability of fortune, before he proceeds to Ris, a burgh which has borne witness to many revolutionary outrages. Before reaching Essone, we observe to the left the flour-ma- gazine of Corbeil, the principal town ot that small country, which was formerly called the Rurepoix, 1 could not resist the temp- tation of visiting a place the monuments of \vhich [ had published ; but alas ! [ could not fnid anyone whichR had described : the unfortunate daughter oi Woldemar, King of Denmark, Queen In- geiburge, humiliated, despised, and turned off by her husband, Philip Augustus, was expelled from the coramandery of St. John, which she had founded, and her statue no longer exists. 1 The figure of the brave Count Aymon is still at St. Spire; but the tomb of this fortunate conqueror of a monster dreaded tin oiighout the country, is despoiled of its ornaments ; the seat of the officiating ecclesiastic, as well as the stalls, whose or- naments consisted of such ludicrous figures, have been broken, the rich shrine of the saint has been melted down; and the church of St. Giiesiault has becoiiie a public library and a prison. In January 1802 the bridge was thrown down by the overflowing of the river, and it can now only be crossed in boats; but a very in- genious mode has been established for the conveyance of letters. The bridge is now repairing ; and the granaries constructed by M. Viei are still extant. Several learned men have endeavoured to account for the ori- gin of the name of Corbeil, which they deduce froni the Latin Corboliumy and they think that the town must have been founded by Corvinus orCorbulo; but others assert that it took its name from a flight of ravens, which appeared in its environs ; Vv Inle others, without troubling themselves about the Latin origin, pretend that the plan on which it was built, was of the form of a raven. This small town has been the birth-place of many distinguished men of letters, some of whom have added its name to their own. Amongst the most eminent were Gilies de Corbeil, physician to Philip Augustus, and one of the first French Authors who wrote on I^atural History; he also composed a poem of six thousand verses, on the virtues of different medicines,- but it appears that Corbeil was not the birth place of this medical poet ; for he w as born in England, and did not even retire to the town in question, but w as made a Benedictine in the Abbey of Corbie. This town IS advantageously situated at the confluence of the Seine and the Juine; the one is navigable, and the other serves to turn mills and manufacturing machinery. Corbeil, which was formerly dependant on Essone, has profited by the advantage of its position on the Seine, and risen to some consequence i POETICAL DESCRIPTION OF HELL REALIZED. 13 \ibile Essone, which, in the times of the first race of Kings, was flourishing, has now sunk to insigniflcance. Tiiis burgh is situated on a small river of the same name; and the Merovingian kings had a palace there as well as a mint. The country is planted with vines, and the little river Essone contributes greatly to its fertility ; it takes its rise in the de- partments ol Loiret, near fVntrin, where it is called the J nine; it runs thiough a part of the town of Elampes, where it is called the river of Etanipes, and its confluence is at Essone. In 17o3, there was an iron foundry here, but at present the two principal establishments are a powder and a paper mill; vve visited the former, and paid great attention to it. The process for the pre- paration of this composition, invented for the destruction of the human race, is so well known as to require no description; I shall therefore only observe that there is in this manufactory a machine v\hich, under the old government, was used for making what was called the king’s powder ; it consists of two enormous stones placed together, which, in their circular motion, grind the substance that has already undergone every other preparation except being granulated ; it thus becomes more compact and dense, occupies a small space, and a charge of it is much strunger than the same proportion of any other kind This particular preparation, however, was not executed without danger; for it often happened that the continual motion of the wheels heated the substance so as to make it explode; and these accidents were §o frequent, that the practice was abandoned, and the machine is now used only for the pulverising of sulphur. Tins manufactory is remarkable on account of its s’ngular situation. I’he place in which the different substances are pre- pared for making the powder, is etuirely blackened liy tiie dust of the charcoal, and seems to resemble those descriptions which poets give of Hell ; we crossed a stream by walking along a plank, and this seems like the passage of the Styx, into the Elysiaii Eields ; for, on the other side, we entered a charming meadow, shaded by flue trees, and intersected by Several branches of a small river, w hich serves to turn the macliinery. The powder-mills are about the distance of a musket-shot f^'cnn the road which leads to Fontamehieau. On crossing the road, we observed, about a quarter of a mile down the river, a little hamlet calletl Moulin-Cjuilant ; this spot has been cele- brated, ever since tlie lifteenth cenliiiy,for its paper-mills, wliich are described in an Account of tlic Provost Court, published in 14b0. These mills were destroyed by the ai my of the Prince de Conde, but they were soon lebiiilt; and tl.e paper, since they have belonged to M. Louis Didot, has acquired a great re- putation ; for .it is here that; the famous vellum sheets are manu- MILLIN S TRAVELS IN FRANCE factiired; on wliich the superb editions of the Brothers Didol are printed. M. Louis Didot pretends that he has discovered the art of oiakiog paper, without the aid of workmen, without life, of an iodetiaite length, and of the width of six feet. The machines for these operations are now building, and if their success should , answer the expectations of their ingenious inventor, the art of paper-making will have experienced a complete revolution. Several attempts ImVe been made to render the J nine and the Essone navigable ; for ancient documents prove that they w' ere soil! 1490, and that the navigation lasted for nearly two centu- ries; but, about the year IO76, it was discontinued, on account of the iwmber of tolls exacted by tlie landlords, ihrougli whose grounds the river passed. The attempts to restore the navigation are, however, at present abandoned, though the greatest advan- tages might be derived from it, by the contiguity of the streams to the forest of Orleans, from which wood and corn might be conveyed for the supply of Pans. On proceeding towards Foiitainebleaip we observed on the left the castle of St. Assise, the park belonging to which extends to the banks of the Seine ; it was for a long time inhabited by the Duke of Orleans, and his spouse, Madame de Montesson ; at which period it was the seat of benevolence, the asylum of the arts, and the centre of every thing which could delight the mind. Farther to the right is the celebrated castle of Villeroy, near which is a species of earth used for porcelaine, and which has long been employed in a raaDufactory dependant upon the castle. There grows in the environs a line variety of the Cnicus olera- tens, L. th© lowermost leaves of which are perfect. We changed horses at Ponthieri, and a little farther is Mon- iignon, at which the department of the Seine and Marne com- mences, I'he next stage is at Chailly, and we arrived at Fontaine- bleau after crossisg a part of the forest. CHAPTER 11 FONTAINEBLEAU — MILITARY SCHOOL COURT OF THE WHITE HORSE LIBRARY CASTLE ARMOURY OF MO- NALDESCHI — ©ALLXRY OF FRANCIS 1.— F RES CO PA 1 NT- INGS OF PRIMATICE AND ROSSO-—TIIE CHAPEL, V V E reached Fontainebleau in the evening; of the day we set out ; the entrance to it is striking, and has something of a Royal appearance. We alighted at the inn called the Gallery f /a Galh e J, MILITAHY SCHOOL AT FO N T A I N £ C LE A U . a place worthy of its name ; as tlie chambers were filled with old portraits of Kings and Princesses, and the wood which formed the alcoves was gilt, though the mouldings, which were dropping off, ill accorded with such finery. At the bed*side we found a small set of steps, entirely covered with scarlet velvet, as if it w'ere liecessary to use them on going to rest, though the bed was not higher tlian the second step. A little farther was a chair, de- corated wiili the same stuff, and intended for a purpose which daily reminds the most powerful and absolute monarchs that they are only men. This burlesque magnificence was to us a melan- choly subject of reflection. The furniture of this palace, which Francis 1. made the focus of the arts, which was the delight of H enry IV., and which was used at so many regal festivals, nofc ornament a miserable inn, as if to remind the traveller that there is no such thin.g as permuuent happiness. The next day we were introduced to General Bellavense, Go- vernor of the Special Military School, Tins General unites to noble and polished manners the severity necessary far conducting such an establishment; he derived much glory from the retreat oT the array (jf the Rhine and Moselle, in 179^? when he exhibited several traits of bravery, and received a severe wound. The ex- cellent order preserved in the school, and the appearance of con- tent amongst the pupils, notwithstanding the rigid discipline to which they are subjected, prove the paternal justice of this officer’s conduct. He conducted us to this senfinary, and we found the school to he in a building which entirely surrounds what is called the Court of the White Horse ; a name which is derived from a model iu plaster, of the horse of Marcus Aurelius, which Catherine de Medicis had caused to he erected there in 1626. This vast court, whidi is eighty torses long by fifty-eight w ide, is apjpro- priated fora play-ground for the pupils; at the time of my visit, their number was two hundred, and they had tw'er.ty professors. This fine square, and the biiildiiigs w hich surround it, were de- signed and erected in 1529? by Sebastian Serlio, an able architect of Bologna, whom Francis i first brought into notice, and who planned most of the fine buildings at Foutaiiiehieau, which tvere erected in the reign of that Monarch. At one eiid of the court, a bailustrade, which projects beyondi the building, leads to the apartments of tlie castle ; it consists of two liights of steps, was built iu l634, and has alw ays been ad- mired for the beauty of its architecture ; nevertheless its turnings are aukward and tasteless, insomuch that it produces a disagree^ able effect from the court. Tiicse flights of steps lead to two galle- ries, communicating to tlie wings, in w hich reside the professors and the pupils. In front is the door by whicb we enter to the hillin’^ TRAVCLS in ttlANCI^. IQ other buildings of the castle, some parts of which are reservefl for the collections of the special school. There is a library which contains about eight thousand volumes, mostly relating to history or the art of war, but it contains no bibliographical rari- tiesw The ceilings and wainscots of this room are gilt, and over the chimney-piece is a figure of flenry I V. on horseback. The marble ornaments are of a remarkable execution, and over the doors are two portraits, said to be those of Mary de Medicis and Gabrielle d’Estrees. 1 bad no opportunity of comparing the latter with the pictures that have been given of Gabriel, but lhave some difficulty in believing that any one would have dared to bring together, in the chamber of Henry IV. the portrait of his Queen and that of his Mistress.. This chamber also contains some handsome bas-reliefs in the Florentine style of the l 6 th century, and of the best kind; they were brought here from other apartments which had fallen to decay. They might be very useful to perfect the pupils in the art of drawing, and are worthy of the attention of amateurs. On the marble of the chimney-piece are deposited a sword, and a coat of mail, which, it is pretended, belonged to the Mar- quis Monaldeschi ; but the fact is, that the sword of one of the three butchers who executed the cruel sentence of Christina, broke on the breast of the unfortunate equerry ; and a coat of mail was found on him which weighed nine or ten pounds. This sw^ord and coat of mail were preserved in the cabinet of antiqui- ties and curiosities of the Math urines, whence, since the re- volution, they were removed to the cabinet of the military school in question. Those who are acquainted with history may remember, that the Queen caused this imfortunate favourite to be killed in the Gallery of the Stags. This inhuman and shocking action has ac- quired a more odious character, iu the accounts which have been given of it : it is even pretended that Christina was present at the execution, and that she took an active part in it; but the most authentic account of this event is that which was published by Father Lebel, the Trinitarian, who confessed the Marquis, and is only to be found in a scarce work printed at Boulogne in 1664, and reprinted by Laplace, in his collection entitled Liecueil de Pieces incerressantes et feu co 7 inuesP Tome IV. page 139. According to this account the Queen had convincing proofs of the treason of the Marquis, against which he could not justify himself. It was aftcrwaids discussed, whether slie had a right to condemn her own subject for a crime committed against her in a foreign country. But the real question is much more important ; it is whetlier an offended sovereign can do justice to himself, as ORIGIN OF the name OF FONTAI NEBLEA t . Ij It has always been considered the most horrid sort of tyranny to deliver the person whom he accuses to executioners, or rather to assassins, without having been condemned by a tribunal which has examined into his crime. There is some reason to believe that the crime of this Marquis was only an affair of gallantry ; it appears that he gave to a rival the letters he received from the Queen, and that in those which he wrote to his mistress he treated his sovereign very disrespectfully. Still the action of Christina was one of the greatest inhumanity ; and it Was with justice that Cardinal Mazaiin ordered her to quit France. Next to the Library is a cabinet of Natural History; but it contains nothing important. In the middle of the hall is a plan, in relief, of a besieged town, for the purpose of giving the pupils an idea of the mode of attack and defence. A gate communicates with the old castle, the remains of which consist of five buildings in ruins, but connected together by galleries ; the entrance to them is by the gallery of Francis 1. w hich reminds the spectator of a brave Prince, who was a friend to literature, and w hose reign w as the happy epoch of the resto- ration of the arts in France. Fontainebleau was a royal residence as early as the twelfth century, and Louis VII. is supposed to have been its founder. Philip Augustus liked this residence, and St. Louis, who was in danger of dying here of a serious illness, was much pleased with the place, and called it /lis deserts. At this castle Philip the Fair was born and died ; Charles V. established the library in it, which afterwards became so celebrated under the name of the Kings Kibrary^ and is now called la Bibliotheque Imperiale. Francis 1. w as however most attached to this place, and under the reign of this Prince it acquired all its importance. Nothing appears more simple than the origin of the name of Fontainebleau; the waters W'hich seem to spring out in every di- rection, have suggested the idea that its etymology is relative to the abundance of the springs, and that the word literally means fontaine belle eaiiy a name which the writers subsequent to Francis 1. sometimes gave it. It is in consequence of this opi- nion that the name of this royal residence has been latinised in seve- ral works, by the equivalent words Fons hellaqueus, Fo?7s belleius, Fons bell(e aqua,, ^c. An ancient tradition relates that, during a chase in the forest, one of the French Kings lost a favourite dog, which was called Bleau or Bliau, but which was afterwards found, at a line spring, not before know n, and which w as, in con- sequence, called la Fontaine de Bleau. I'his anecdote is con- formable to the manners of the times, agrees with the nature of the place, and has all the appearance of truth. Francis I. caused this spring to be covered in, and to be ornamented with a kind of grotto of stones, in which was painted, in fresco, tiit WILLIN.] G MILLIIn’s TPtAVELS IN FRANCE. ISf story of its discovery. The water at present merely runs into a round bason, in the midst of the garden of hr trees. We next entered the gallery which bears the name of Francis I. The bust of this Prince still remains at the extremity of it, and is fortunately in a tolerable state of preservation. This gal- lery is also called the little gallery, to distinguish it from the great one, as it is long and narrow' ; it is likewise called the Gallery of tlieReformed, because in it the Protestants presented a petition to Francis I.; or rather because Louis XIV. after the peace of the Pyrenees, in 1664, leformed or discharged several officers. Fran- cis 1. sent to Italy for several distinguished artists, whom he em- ployed to build and embellish Fontainebleau ; and Rosso, as early as the year 1530, had painted several pictures for it. in 1531 this Prince sent for Primaticio, and gave him the superintendance of all the embellishments. Primaticio and Rosso executed a considerable number of fresco paintings, which are not now' to be found, and have probably been destroyed ; in fact nothing re mains but the gallery itself that is worthy of preservation as a mo- nument of the history of the arts, and as a general model of that kind of building w'hich is now absolutely lost. It is a singular mixture of paintings and ornaments of stucco, composed of flow'ers, fruits, children, men, and animals, executed by that celebrated sculptor, Paul Ponce, whose genius and invention were admirable; for there is no one part w'hich resembles another. Most of the pictures, w hich are of the kind called cartoons, are miniatures of exquisite taste ; and the large paintings which decorate the gallery are fourteen in number ; they are eight feet high by eighteen long, but they do not form a complete history, as the subjects have no connection with each other ; they mostly relate to mythology. The chapel belonging to this old palace is loaded w ith gilding and paintings, and is in a very ruinous state ; but its pavement, w hich is formed of marble of various colours, like that of the cu- pola of the Invalids, is in a good state of preservation. The theatre is also w'orthy of mention ; there only remains in it a tier of boxes; it is built upon a bad plan, and the performance could not have been seen iiom any oilier part than that which now remains. It is equally filled with gilding as the chapel, w hich affords an idea of the richness of the ornaments. On entering this theatre^ I remembered the names of many w orks, which, after having been received here with the greatest applause, experienced a reception exactly the reverse on the stages at Paris. 1 could mention the names of several, but I wish not to disturb the ashes of the dead. W ithout leaving Fontainebleau one may trace all the epochs of the arts In Fiance, from the time of their restoration. TLe va- luable remains ol Primaticio and Rosso first remind us of that 6 APARTaMENTS of MARIE ANTOINETTE. Id brilliant period. On entering the cliambeis of Mary de Mcdicis and Henry IV^. vve observe the changes that were then effected, and we no longer admire the multiplicity of paintings, and the astonishing variety of ornaments ; for the taste of the age of Franc is is perceived to have given way to the luxury of gilding ; though both the ceilings and w^ainscots are decorated with considerable taste, or at least they make a very magnificent appearance. The good Henry, who was both a hunter and a warrior, took much delight in Fontainebleau, and bestow'ed great pains on its embellishments; but a bad taste is evident in the concert-room, which was embellished in the reign of Louis XV. under the di- rection of Madame de Pompadour; the parts which were con- structed for the late Queen, are a kind of boudoirs, and very agreeable little apartments, in a much better style than those of the reign of Louis XV. From the apartments is seen a large reservoir, in the middle of which is a small building of marble, called the Council Chamber of Henry IIL; it is said that Catharine de Medicis, and after- w^ards Cardinal Richelieu held in it their secret consultations : Rut Princes have no necessity for keeping their deliberations so secret. This building supplanted a pavilion which Francis 1. had caused to be erected for the amusement of fishing. This Prince and his successor had collected in the castle a great number of valuable pictures, and of antique statues, or copies made after them, so that it really became a school of the fine arts, and maily artists from every country, came hither to study the productions which it contained. At present these valuables are united in the Napoleon Museum and the garden of the Thuilieries ; the fine bronze statues which now ornament the great terrace have nearly all been taken from Fontainebleau. The central school, which was held in one wing of the castle, was, at the time of my visit, on the point of closing, conformably to the decree which ordained the suppression of the schools. There is a manufactory of porcelain at Fontaioebleau, but we could not 5ee it because it w^as Sunday. to MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. CHAPTER HI. J^EPARTURE FROM FO NTAINEBLE A U— ACCOUNT OF THE FOREST ITS ROCKS, AND THE NATURE OF THE STONE DESCRIPTION OF SEVERAL VILLAGES BETWEEN FON- TAINEBLEAU AND SENS— -THE ESPLANADE AT SENS — REMARKS ON THE SENONES — AGEDINCUM THE COL- LEGE THE LIBRARY AND THE MUSEUM ACCOUNT OF SOiyiE CURIOUS MANUSCRIPTS, MISSALS, &C. On the 15 th of April, at uoon, we left Fontainebleau ; the vast Ibuildings of this splendid residence of royalty attest its former mag- nihcence ; the great number of beggars who frequent these roads, present a contrast of luxury and misery which unfortunately is too often met with. We again passed in front of the obelisk, and proceeded through g part of the fine forest, which contains up- wards of thirty-four thousand acres, and which is remarkable for the singularity of its prospects. On one side are black and shape- jess rocks, surrounded with morasses, and on the other is strata of freestone, irregularly superposed ; or barren sands at one part, while another contains lands coveied with the finest w^oods, such as oaks, beech, and firs, whose lofty summits expand in the air, or the trunks of which are lying op the ground, w Idle the whole affords the most picturesque views. Often, on leaving a fertile valley, we found ourselves on an uninhabited desert ; but, on the other hand, several parts of the forest contain w'alks lined with trees, that extend farther than the eye can reach. In the works of Messrs. Vaillant and Thuillieu, as well as in all the publications which describe the botany of the environs of Paris, are indicated those plants which are peculiar to the fotest of Fon- tainebleau. It is also known that there is found here the quartz- iferous carbonated limey in acute rhomboids, which is know n by |he vulgar name of crystallised freestone of Fontainebleau, be- cause this substance is peculiar to the forest or its environs. These groups of crystals have a fine appearance, and sometimes form masses which are upwards of an hundred weight each. '^The rocks of Fontainebleau are mostly composed of that spe- cies of agglutinated arenaceous quartz which is called paving- stoncj because it is with this stone, when cut in squares, that th^ ANTIQUITIES NEAR FONTAINEBLEAU. streets of our towns are paved in so convenient and solid a man- ner; it is also called llie ireestone of Fontainebleau. Much has been said for a long time concerning the vipers of Fontainebleau, and it is certain that a singular kind of reptile is very numerous in this district ; it nearly resembles the common viper, or Coluber verns of Liimseus ; but it differs in some of its characteristics. The Prefect of the Department has caused these reptiles to be sought for^ and many have been destroyed. At the end of the park is the village of Avon, the parish churcliof which is very ancient, and which contained the tomb of Monal- deschi; it was said to possess the heart of Philip the Fair, though it is known that he was buried at Poissy. A large and fertile kitchen garden has been formed here out of the ground belong- ing to the forests. After travelling about a league from this spot, we left the wood entirely, and, at the distance of another league, entered Moret, the gates of which are flanked with towers. This town is of a square form, and the principal street divides it in the middle. It is a very ancient place, a council having been held in it as eaily as the year 860. On leaving this town, we perceived, on the right, the fosses and ruins of its ancient castle, which was of a circular form. After I crossing the rivulets of Loing and Orleans, which latter is called the canal of Montargis, we came to an obelisk of red marble, which is well built, and called the Queens Obelisk', after which we arrived at Fossart, which forms the limils of the ancient country of the Parisii, and then w'e entered on the territory of the ancient Senones. I'he road on the left leads to the old Condale^ since called Monasteriolum, and, in French, Montereau, with the surname of Faut-Yonne, because this river here empties itself into the Seine. This place is celebrated on account of the assassi- nation of the Duke»jif Burgundy; and, before the levolutioii, the sword of thi Prince was exhibited in the church, where it was suspended upon two iron hooks. On pursuing the road to Sens, we had on the left the verdant banks of the Yonne, while to the right was the castle of La Brosse, and shortly afterwards we came to the stone which points out the limits of the department of the Seine and Marne. VVe then en- tered that of the Yonne, and, after passing througli two or tlncc villages of no importance, arrived at Pont-sur-Yonne. This is a towu'of considerable extent; at the end of it is a very Icuig bridge, after crossing which we had the Yonne on the right; the meadows which lie along its banks are extremely picturesque. After passing through Villenavotte, we left to the right the ancient Abbey of St. Colombe and arrived at Sens. Wo enteral this town on a Sundav, and went immediately to the Pioiuen id« 2 ^ MILLINGS" TRAVELS IN FRANCE. which is a large open space planted, with trees, and extending along the old walls ; at one end were two orchestras, and the company were dancing with the same liveliness as at the fties champAres of Paris ; near the gate of St. Antoine is a reservoir filled with stagnant water in w’hich linen is washed, but which seems rather devoted to the goddess Cloacina than to any useful purpose. It is astonishing that the people use this filthy water, as the Yonoe, which runs through the town, would furnish them with an abundance of a pure kind for every domestic purpose ; while this digusting hole injures the appeal ance of the fine walk at the end of which it is placed. The Senones who inhabited the country which we entered on leaving Moret, were a people celebrated in ancient Gaul, and who occupied a very extensive territory. They were that warlike race, who, after having defeated the consul Fabius, penetrated even into Rome, which they plundered. It appears, however, that they had other Gallic nations for their allies in this expedition : but they were themselves the principals. In the time of Caesar they formed an alliance wuth the Parisii, at which period they were much respected : their limits were to the eastward of the Seine ; to the west was the country of the Carnutes, and to the south a small horde wdio were under the protection of the jEdui : they possessed that part of Champagne which the Seine borders to the south; while the territory of the Tricassini (Troyes) was probably dependant on them. Hence it is evident that the town of Sens derives its name from that of the Senones, of which it is only an abbreviation ; though in the time of Csesar it was called i\gedincum. In the sixth year of his w^ars with the Gauls, Cassar had his winter quar- ters there with six legions ; and in the following year Labienus left several legions here with his baggage, which he withdrew after his conquest of Camulogenus. - Like several other towns of Gaul, Agedincum changed its name for that of the nation of which it was the capital: it was called Senones by Aramianus Marceilinus. Hecentius, brother of Magnentius, was in this town when he heard of the defeat of his brother, and in consequence strangled himself. Sens, which according to eveiy account, w as a place of great antiquity, still contains monuments which attest its ancient im- portance; for a knowledge of which I was much indebted to M. Tarbe, an eminent bookseller in the town. He conducted us to the College, which is in the late convent of the Celestines; this establisment contains 1£0 scholars, who are educated by M. Roger, formerly grand vicar of the Archbishoprick of Toulouse. This gentlemen showed us the library, which contains aboid 12,000 volumes, but it has no old editions, though it is well sup- CURIOSITIES IN THE COLLEGE AT SENS. 25 plied with commentators on the classics. It is contained in a line square building ; but the inscription, Bibliotheca maxima^ which is placed over the door, is very inappropriate, as there are many private libraries which are much more extensive. The museum is also in the college, and is simply a square hall, having only a ground floor, the wtiHs of which are covered with paint- ings, but none of which are of importance. M. Roger conducted me to a press, wdiich contained se- veral subjects of Natural History, though of no importance. There were also several interesting missals of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Amongst this generally uninteresting collection we however • I distinguished an extremely curious article: It was the celebrated ijDyptic, which contained the Office of the Fools and the hymns If of the Ass : 1 have made it the subject of a very extensive disser- tation in my collection of unpublished monuments, and I shall 1 here give a description of it. I It is knowm that the name of Dyptics w'as given to the tablets of ivory wffiich the consuls presented on the day of their installa- tion, and which afterw'ards passed to the use of the church, where they were used by the bishops, for inscribing their names or note- ing down their prayers. That of Sens is one of the few which are ornamented with subjects of mythology, and this particularity renders it more interesting : Its leaves are stretched on pannels of oak, and the whole is contained in a frame of silver. The subject of the first leaf appears to be the Triumph of Bacchus. This god is assisting at the vintage, at which his bene- i volence and powers are manifest, and the divinities of the sea are ? witnessing the sight; to the left is a young man naked, bearing j on his head a basket filled with grapes, in his right hand is a si- milar basket, and he is looking towards the tub in which he is I about to deposit their contents. Near this figure a villager ap- I pears, conducting a chariot drawm by sheep, and likewise filled j with grapes; the conductor is armed with a large club, in the \ shape of a mace, and he points wdth his right hand to the tub in which the grapes are to be deposited. Above this figure are seen tw’o men in the same dress as that of the conductor of the car, which is a simple tunic with the sleeves tucked up, and which was the clothing of the slaves who were employed in tlie labours of the field ; they are arranging the grapes in two large O'^icr baskets, and seem to be preparing them for the large pressing- tub, which is contiguous. To the left appear three naked men pressing the grapes ; the first of whom has horns, which charac- terise him as one of the follow’ers of Bacchus: 1’ho attilude of each is different, and all three are in an active position, treading on the grapes ; some other monuments represent Fauns iu the 24 MILLIn’s travels in FRANCE, same employment. The juice of the grape, which is expressed by this tripuclatiori, issues from the tub through a lion’s iiioulh, j and falls into a large round vase. The artist has supposed that ) the wine, as soon as it issues from the pressing tub, is ptit into ( barrels, and to represent this essential part of the vintage, he has ] placed near the Vase a small square carriage with two wheels, on ! which is a cask like those used in France for containing wine ; , The different positions of the cars indicate the commencement J and termination of the vintage ; that which brings the grapes is ‘ advancing towards the pressing-tub, while that which conveys the cask is receding from it. In the middle of this picture aie the figures of Bacchus with his joyful troop, assisting at the e>eremony. i' The first figure is a satyr with horns on his head, who is sound- / ing a conch to announce the arrival of the gods of I^yssa. He ' holds the bridle of a horse in a capering attitude, on the back of 1 which is a man dressed in a sort of chlamys ; the satyr and the ! liorsemen appear to be first in the procession, and are directing their course tow^ards the pressing-tub. It is not easy to guess who is the horseman, but he probably represents the master of the villa at which the vintage is made, and for whom the dyptic has been sculptured. The car of Bac- chus is next seen with two centaurs, male and female, who sup- port with their hands an elegantly formed cantharus: they raise it above their heads and look back at the god whom they are draw- , ing. The carriage is in the form of a war-chariot, and the god is . standing in it ; he has not that appearance of youth and effeminacy which is generally given to Bacchus, but on the contrary is rather old, and has a beard; and it is known that Bacchus the conqueror of India is thus represented, and bears the name of the Indian Bacchus : he is crowned with vine leaves, and the staff on which he rests is topt- w ith the same leaves, and not with the pine- apple as is usual ; the mantle of the god rests on his left arm. Near him is Pan, w'ho carries in his hand a stick, the branches of which have been cut off, and which serves him instead of a pedum ; he appears to he supporting Iiis master, of w hom he is the friend and general. On the low'ermost part of the picture j are divinities of the sea, who represent an old Triton between two \ Nereids, all of whom have their heads decorated with lobsters’ j claw s, w'hich on several monuments indicate their wearers to be sea gods : the ai tist has given each of them a belt of acanthus leaves, at the part which separates the human body from the fish : their tails twine round in noble and elegant forms. The Triton holds in his hands a marine monster, which has the head of a dog; one of the Nereids points with her right hand towards the car of Bacchus, and holds a conch in her left; the other iioids an oar m her right hand ; and beneath the group are THE FESTIVAL OF FOOLS. 25 fish sporting in the water. The most remarkable circumstance in the picture is, that the car of Bacchus seems to be coming out of the water, and the Centaurs who draw it do not appear to have gained the land. As Bacchus is seldom seen in water, it is neces- sary to say something on this peculiarity. There is no doubt that Bacchus was considered, in ancient mythology, as well as Apollo, as an emblem of the sun; a fact which has been established by several authors. 1 am of opinion that Bacchus is considered here as the sun : he seems to be rising out of the sea, and by his mild heat facilitates the vintage. The marine divinities are observing him coming out of the water, and his vivifying presen’ce animates the progress of the vintagers. It is supposed that this piece represents Bacchus, supported by Pan, conducted by the Centaurs, and preceded by a Satyr, as coming in pomp to visit and fertilize the possessions of the owner. This explanation seems to be the more probable, as the second leaf shews us Diana, or the moon, issuing from the sea, in the same manner as Bacchus, or the sun, is quitting^ the waves : the ideas of the artist are however confused in this piece, for he has by no means followed any regular plan, and tlie same remark is applicable to the next plate. The office of the madmen, or fools, as described in this fine dyptic, was composed by Pierre de Corbeil, Archbishop of Sens, who died on the 'id of the ides of June, in the year 1222; it is very well written. The most singular of the festivals which w^ere celebrated in our churches was doubtless that of the fools; being a mix- ture of religion and disgusting impiety ; and it has been considei ,d by the most celebrated authors as the remains of Pagan tradi- tions, or a gross imitation of the Roman Saturnalia. It is a cer- tainty that these festivals were nearly similar; and the Saturutua were likewise derived from the ancient fetes celebrated m honour of Ceres and Bacchus, from which the most ludicrous and licen- tious deviations have originated. But as, m the periods of igno- rance, religion was mingled with every thing, it was necessary to accord with the natural mcliuation of men for t'etes and shows, to combine tl.em with every thing, and hence the first dramatic representations were pious farces, winch were performed at liie conclusion of vespers on a sort of hustings, erected before the doors of the churches by pilgrims. J'hc period of Chiistnuis was a time of rejoicing, whicii reminded the people of the birth of the Saviour of the world; and wdiat moment c*;ual have been chosen more favourable for giving way to pleasure and rejoicings than the time which preceded the long 1 .stmgs and tiie me! n- choiy period of devotion to which our Saviour applicH:! hini-cif, winch is called his Passion, The cliaracters w ho wore conspi- M 1 L L 1 N .] o MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. cuoiis at the nativity of Jesus, as Joseph, the magi , and the shep- herds, nay, even the animals, vsliich are always represented in the stable, or, as it is scripturaiiy called the manger, seem overcome’ with joy at the mysterious event of the birth of the Lord; and their delight is represented in a ludicrous way, because the man- ners of the people were at that time unpolished. The ancient custom of disguises was not forgotten, and was naturally resorted to, in order ro represent the personages, and even the animals who bore a part in the festival. Hence it is useless to refer to the Romans to tind the origin of the festival of fools (la Fete des Foujc); it is not an imitation of the Saturnalia. The progress of civilization has abolished this festival, and there only remain to satisfy the people, certain days of disguises or masquerade, and rude amusements called Jiesh-days, or the carnivak This feast of fools gave rise to many ceremonies of a very lu- dicrous nature, which it will not be useless to particularise : they elected a bishop, and even in some churches a pope of fools ; the priests were bedaubed with dregs of wine and other filth, and were masked or disguised in the most absurd and ridiculous manner. On entering the choir, they danced and sung obscene songs ; the deacons and subdeacons ate puddings and sausages at the altar before the celebrant, and even played with cards and dice in his presence, while they threw into the censor pieces of old shoe leather, with which they perfumed him ; they then dragged the deacons through the streets, and threw them into carts or barrows full of ordure, at the same time putting themselves in lascivious postures, and making indecent gestures. There are several monuments still extant, which relate to these impious and disgusting farces, some of which represent stalls, whereon are seen monks with some trilling bauble, and with asses’ ears; thus representing the manner in which the actors at the festival of fools disguise themselves. The dress wiiich poets and actors give to the god Momus owes its origin to these burlesque cere- monies. This festival received modiricatloiis in various countries in which it was celebrated, and it had dilferent names, on account of certain ludicrous ceremonies which were added to it ; hence it. was called, in some parts, the festival of the subdeacons^ or drunken priests, the festival of the cuckolds, &c.; and the church ot Sens was the place at which more apparatus was used in these ceremonies than any where else. The manuscript contains, with variations, the celebrated song called yJdvcntavit asinus, which was sung on conducting the ass, clothed with a lino housing, to the door or towards the altar, which w'as one of the principal ceremonies at the fools’ fes- tival. ACCOUNT OF CHANCELLOR DUPRAT. 27 ^laurice, archbishop of Paris, who died about the year 1 196 j made many attenjpts to abolish these absurd superstitions, but he could not succeed, as the author of this custom was then alive, and did not die till the year wdiile many traces of it remained al ter him. An act of 1245, contained in the archives of the chapter of Sens, states that, at this period, Odoii, bishop of that church, prohibited the masquerades in question; but they were not altogether abolished ; in fact they lasted two centuries longer; for we find tliMt, in 1444, the faculty of theology, at the request of several bishops, wrote a letter to all the prelates and chapters, tc condemn and abolish this ceremony, though the acts of the Councils, which were held in 1460 and 1485, only speak of them as abuseswhichshould be retrenched; and it appearsthat, as late as the years 1514 and 1517, these acts gave permission for them to be celebrated, in 1511, a priest of the fools, named Bissard, allowed himself to be shaved in the same manner as the comedians, to play some part in the festival of the Circumcision, and we find that the festival of fools was sometimes forbidden, and at other times permitted, till towards the end of the sixteenth century, at which period it ceased entirely. JSehind the priiicipa! altar of the church of the college are four bus reliefs winch deserve the attention of the^ curious traveller ; they belong to the tomb of the Chancellor Duprat, archbishop of Sens, which tomb was in the cathedral, but has been destroyed. Ifie Prelate was represented dead, and already devoured by worms ; a custom adopted at that period, and which was as dis- gusting by the.hideous objects which it presented to the view as' It was unfavourable to the developement and progress of the arts. These four has reliefs were saved from destruction, and remained for two years concealed behind some books, but ti,iey are now placed in die college church ; they are altogetlier fifteen feet long, by fifteen or sixteen inciies bigii, and are divided into four parts, which decorated the faces of the base of the tomb. Each oftliem represents one of the most remarkable events in the life of tile Cardinal. He w^as born at fsHoire, in 1463, and rose suc- cessively to several great employments, through the interest of the JJuchess of Angouleme, mother of Francis 1 . After the death of his wife, by whom he had two sons and two daughters, lie entered into orders. At tliis time he was first President of the l^arhument, and alleiwvards became Bishop of Meaux, and of Aibi, and finally Chancellor. He is represented in these has reliefs lullilling his different functions, surrounded by his inferior officers. The only aim of Duprat seemed to have been to enrich aud advance himself, and he succeeded ; Pope Clement VH. gave him the Cai'- nai’s hat^ and ajipointed liim Jugate in France; in which quality i) 2 TS MILLIn’s travels in FRANCE. lie made bis eRtraiice into France in September 1530; and this cer»:-Oiony foims the subject of one of the bas reliefs. The council at \i'hich Duprat presided was a provincial kind of as- sembly, held at Saint Germain-en-Laye, and which met in May 3 532, This council decreed a tax of four-tenths of their income, to be levied upon the ecclesiastics. of the diocese of Sens, in the form of a gratuitous gift, for the purpose of purchasing the ran- som of the Dauphin and the Duke of Orleans, who were detained as hostages at Madrid. This council, which only discussed tem- poral affairs, has no place in the grand collection. The fourth bas relief represents the solemn entry of the body of Duprat into Sens. He had been appointed to that archbishopric by the Queen Mother, during the imprisonment of Francis 1. in Spain, after die death of Stephen Poncher; but the chapter named John de Salazar, and supported their election. The substitute whom Duprat sent to Sens, to take possession of the office in his name, was very ill treated, and the Prelate did not dare to come and occupy it himself ; he therefore could not visit his church, into which he never entered, till bis body was carried in after his death, which happened in July, 1335. This Pi elate, whose ambition was without bounds, had the presumption to wish to be made Pope, after the death of Clement Vil. in 1334. Francis I observed to liirn, that he was neither rich nor powerful enough to take upon himself so high an office ; on which Duprat was so inconsiderate as to reply, that he was able to support all the expence. ’Ibis expression convinced the King what an immense treasure the Chancellijr must have amassed, and he, in consequence, seized on his pi : perty ; at which Duprat broke his heart. b reliefs were sculptured at Grenoble ; tlie sculptor’s name is unknown ; but he was certainly very clever. CFIAPTER IV. CATHEBRAL OF SENS, AND ITS CURIOSITIES REMARKS ON THE TREASURIES OF CHURCHES — ECCLESIASTICAL ANTlOUITiES — -ACCOUNT OF SOME PICTURES BELONG- ING TO M. THOMAS MANUFACTORIES PORT DAU- PHINE — CHURCH OF ST. S A VI N I AN— I N SCRl PTIO N S OF THE ELEVENTH CENTURY. A hTER this visit to the museum and library of Sens, M* Tarbe conducted us to the cathedral. It is supposed to have been in the third century that St. Savinian and St. Potentian came CATHEDRAL OF SENS. (29 0 Sens, and introduced Christianity ; in consequence of which hey are honoured witli a particular worship. The cathedral, lowever, is dedicated to St. Stephen; it is a very magniiicent :hurch, which was built in the tenth century, and has been aug- nented and embellished at various times by the different arch- jbishops. 1 The entrance is heavy and irregular; there were over the prin- cipal door several figures of angels and saints, and, as in several t ther churches, a representation of the marriage of the virgin. )ver the left gate are still to be seen the remains of two figuros, representing Avarice and Prodigality ; Avarice is sitting upon his bags, in order to prevent them being stolen; while Prodigality is ialso sitting, but between two coffers, which he keeps open ; in one of these is silver, and in the other effects of various kinds ; at the feet of the figure is a sack. Over the gate to the right are the remains of the statue of Philip of Valois, who was represented on horseback, as at Wotre I Dame, at Paris. There is a number of monuments in the body of tliis church, jhut they ate unworthy of particular notice. The ehoiralso con- jtains nothnig remarkable, baton each side of it is a chapel ; that :on the right, which is called the Chapel of the Virgin, contains a j.figure of a Madona, to which a number of miracles are at- jtributed. , In the middle chapel of the round point, behind the choir, is I the Martyrdom of Saint Savinian, sculptured by Bridan ; an exe- cutioner is about to cut off the head of the Saint with a hatchet, while a soldier holds him by his clothes ; but the motions are overstrained ; the drapery of the Bishop, however, is well ex- .ecLited. The singular devotion that is inspired by the name of St. Ni- cholas, is principally^ owing to the powerful protection which he affords to young lovers, whose marriage is retarded or prevented by any unfortunate circumstance. This Saint, to whom so many timid vows are addressed, is represented offering a bag of money to an old man to induce him to let his daughter, who is present, be married. The painted window's are magnificent, and have a religious and imposing effect; one of them represents Paradise, and was executed at the expeuce of Gabriel GoufHer, dean of Sens, who died in lolf). d he windows of the chapel of Our Lady of J^retta, behind the choir, also deserve attention. On the walls of this cathedral are several inscriptions of the middle age, which arc worthy of preservation. Tiicse monu- inents of the ancient piety of our forefalliers, the forms of their lapidary style, and their manner of writing, become every day 30 millin’s travels in prance. more scarce, in consequence of the destruction of the edifices in vihicii they were consecrated to religion. A canon named Raoul lias an epitapb over his remains, replete with contractions, wliich i-ender it almost unintelligible, but of which the following is a correct transcription : Morte soporafvsjavcmim puldieruniis mius Nomine Ragulfus, /uc recubat posit us, Qiii pafiens, huinUis, mitis, castusquc, snavis^ Prcefulgens tncritis dericvs atquefiiit : Ob aniinaw ciijus euncti rogitate preeanfes. Farce, Deus,famulo quijacet hoc tumule. This epitaph was incrustated in tlie south wall of the church of St. Sauveur, in the ancient cemitery of the cathedral, and the canons of Sens, as we are informed by a modern inscription in letters of gold, which is placed below it, caused it to be removed to the cathedral in 1761, conceiving it to be a venerable monu- ment of antiquity, and a testimony of the canonical sanctity of one of their predecessors. The revolution caused several monuments which attracted the attention of the curious, to disappear from the cathedral, and we sought in vain for those of Salazar and Dnperroii. It is astonish- ing that the mausoleum of the Dauphin, the father of Louis XVI. and of JVJarie Josephe of Saxony, his princess still exist, though the revolutionary hmatics scattered the ashes of this illus- trious couple, who were distinguished by the most striking virtues ; but this mausoleum is no longer in the choir, and the various figures do not produce the effect which they did in that august sanctuary that originally contained them : they are removed into a small chapel which serves as a vestry or magazine. I must con- fess that this monument did not mal^e that impression upon me which I was led to expect, as i had always beard its composition highly panegyrized; but the allegory is very complex, so that the meaning of it cannot be easily understood. On ascending to the lantern of the steeple we had a delightful view of the course oftheYonne and the fine surrounding countries, while before us were the little chapel of St. Martin du Tertre, and a tombelle which probably holds the remains of some valiant Serionians. AVhat are called tombdies are elevations of earth in a conical form, which anciently served for Gaulic and Frankish chiefs; they are to be met with in every part of France. As there is another of these elevations at a short distance, the inha- bitants of Sens, who are curious to know tli^ history and anti- quities of th^ir country, might open one of them and examine its contents^ while the other might be preserved as a monu- ment. ON' CMliRCTf THEASURF/S. Afttny writers Imve attempted to throw jidicule on tlje trea- sures of ebnrchcs ; tmd it is certain lliat monkish fraud lias often lain the jhons sini 'dicity of the people under contriliution, while by" sliewing them pretended relics tliey could not but render them in- credulous respecting die authenticity of real ones ; but it must on die other hand be admitted^ that it is to these treasures we are in- debted for the preservation of many precious monuments. Amongst the ancients the treasuries of the temples^ which were placed behind those edifices in the episthodomes, were filled with vases^, tripods, candelabras, votive shields^ with images of Victory and otlier divi- nities ; being the offerings made by kings, individuals, and the people at large. It was in these sacred asyla that monuments of the highest antiquity were preserved ; for example, it is known that the celebrated coffer of Cypseius was kept in the temple of Juno at Argos. The treasuries of Christian churches have likewise been en- riched by an abundance of offerings, and they also formerly con- tained many curious monuments which illustrated Christian anti- quities; while profane monuments were kept with them, because pious credulity had consecrated them to religion, and pretended to trace in them some semblance to holy mysteries. Thus many articles of the higiiest importance have been preserved to us. Nearly all the dyptics have been taken from sacristies, one of fine sardonyx, which is now in the imperial cabinet, and which represents the dispute between Neptune and Mmerva, to ascer- tain which of them should give their name to the town of Cecrops, was supposed by the Christians to represent Adam and Eve. As all the churches in France were pillaged at the time of tiie revolution, our researclies in the vestries were in most cases fruitless. That of Sens was the only one which we discovered to possess some remarkable articles, wisich the civil sexton shewed to us with all the complaisance imaginable; he first conducled us into the hall of the Chapter-liouse, which contains the portraits of several archbishops, and is embellished with a fine tapestry of silk and gold, representing the Adoration of liieMagi: this place also contains the armouries of the house of Bourbou- V^endotne. The relics in the treasury here, are, a piece of the rod of Moses, a bone of the prophet Isaiah, a bit of the seamless coat, a piece of the real cross, and oilier absnrdilies of a similar na- ture, for imposing on the credulity of the ignorant; but the rin- ger of St. Luke with the ilesh oil it, about which the two Bene- dictine travellers already mentioned spoke with so much fervour, has disappeared. Among the ecclesiastical antiquities we observed the chasuble of St. Thomas of Canterbiny, of the Greek shape, with the ma- 32 MILLliN'^S TRAVELS IN FRANCE. niple, the stole, the cordon, the tiinicle, and the mitres. Thi^ violent and audacious Prelate, who wished to liberate the clergy from their legitimate authority, and to subject his king to a fo- reign power, retired to the abbey of Pontigny, and afterwards to that of St. Colombe, from which last mentioned place the orna- ments in question were brought hither ; and the celebrant uses them all, with the exception of the mitres, on St. I'homas’s day. There was shown to us a curiosity which they called the comb of St. Loup ; it was of an enormous size, with two sets of teeth, and ornamented with stones and hgores of animals ; in the middle w as this inscription: Pectcn sancti Lupi;” which is, the comb of St. Loup. It appears that, in the early ages, the priests were not satisfied with merely washing' their hands before mass, but they also combed their hair, which is the reason why combs are found in the treasuries of churches. There is- in this treasury an interesting curiosity ; it is an ivory box, with twelve faces or fronts ; the lid is of a pyramidal form, and the brim is ornamented with a circle of enamelled copper, which must be as ancient as the plates of ivory ; these plates were, without doubt, formerly attached to a box of a much richer kind. The plates of ivory represent the history of Joseph and his bre- thren, and of David ; there are Greek inscriptions above the figures, tp illustrate the subjects, but they have been almost effaced in at- tempts to clean the ivory. !n these engravings the various adven- tures of the distinguished characters just mentioned are described with tolerable precision, in thirty-two squares or divisions. There are many other curiosities in this treasury wiiich are worthy of the attention of antiquarians. As soon as we had dined, M. Tarbe conducted us through the town; we wentfirst to the house of M. Thomas, an opulent gold- smith., who, during the revolution, bought up all the pictures which he could obtain in the departments. These crusts orna- ment a church, of which he is also the proprietor, and which he lets out for public worship. They are, for the most part, un- worthy of notice ; but we were shown the portrait of an old man painted with the, finger, and as it was pretended by Anuibal Carracci. This painter was in the habit of giving very bad pencils to his students, and, on their complaining, he answered that, to clever artists, the state of the pencils was of no conse- quence, and that, for his own part, he could paint wit h his finger. To prove his assertion, he immediately painted the head in ques- tion ; but Baldinucci and the other authors who have written the life o^ Carracci, do not mention this anecdote. Probably this great artist may have amused himself by painting the bead in the way described, but he could not have said seriously the PROCESS OF GLUE-MAKING. 33 words tliat are attributed to biiii. The authenticity of the pic- ture is, however, more doubtful than the rest of the anecdote. At the village of Soucy, near Sens, in the year 1501, was born Jean Cousin, who is considered as the founder of the French school. He married there the daughter of Lubin Rousseau, Lieutenant General of the Bailiwick ; but though his principal establishment was at Paris, the property of himself and his wife was at Sens, in consequence of w hich he went to pass several months every year in that town, and each time left behind him many of his works, principally paintings upon glass, as this was the kind of art in which he most excelled, and several of his principal pieces still ornament our churches. The other kinds of paintings of this master, are very scarce; the one most celebrated is bis Last Judgment, which is at present in the Na- poleon Museum. Ou leaving the house of M. de Bonnaire, to which we had been taken to see a picture by the artist just men- tioned, but which did not at all equal our expectations, we pro- ceeded to that of Cherchedieu, the proprietor of a manu- factory of glue, made in the English manner, and established by an Englishman named Hail, of whom M. Cherchedieu is the suc- cessor. He very obligingly showed us all the processes of his manufactory, with which we were not before acquainted; we were informed that after the glue is boiled, a great degree of at- tention is necessary in the drying of it, and that the influence of the air is of much consideration. If it be frosty weather, the cakes which are to be dried turn into ice, and there are so many bubbles of air formed in them, that the cakes are affected in theiir quality, insomuch that they cannot be sold, except when mixed with better cakes ; while, if the w eather be too hot, the gela- tinous part of the substance dissolves, and the whole operatiqn must be commenced again; iu short, the only time favourable for drying the cakes is when the wdnd blow's, and the air is dry. The other processes employed in the ina,king of glue, are too well know'!! to need description. The quantity of glue sold from this manufactory produces annually about forty thousand livres, which amounts to Is. 4d. sterling. The cm rent price at which the glue is sold, is about twenty sous per pound. M. Cherchedieu assures us, that there is no other establishment of this kind in France, except at Lyons. The principal branch of industry at Sens appears to be its tanneries. The leather hall, which w^e saw on passing, is a spacious building, which is particularly remarkable for the lightness and solidity of its roof. The environs of Sens, on the side at which we left it,* are very picturesque, and well cultivated. I'lie little river called the Vanne divides into a great number of branches and streams, which not MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. 54 . only supply the town with water, but serve to move the macbi-» nery of the different manufactories, and supply them with water. At the outskirts of the town these different streams spread over the grounds, and irrigate the gardens, which are called by die old French name of courtialsy in which are cultivated a quantity of kitchen vegetables, that, though they do not equal in davour those produced at the marshes round Paris, yet compensate by their size for what they lose in delicacy. The gardeners here grow vast quantities of gariick, w’hich attains a remarkable size, and which, with the other vegetables, forms a branch of commerce with tlie neighbouring towns. These gardens are surrounded by alder trees, wliich once in three years afford a great quantity of branches, that serve for vine props and fences. A great variety of plants are to be met with in the environs of Sens; Monsainet, who published a botanical work in jlf)84, has given a catalogue of upwards of six hundred, which he found in this neighbourhood. Near the tanning establishment of Messrs. Lordereau is a large branch of the Vanne, which is filled with floating timber, pro- ceeding from the forests of Burgundy, and which is detained here to form it into those rafts that are conveyed by the Yonne tq Paris. We crossed the Vanne on the floating wood, and arrived at La Motte du Ciar;jt is a bank about a quarter of a league from the river; but it is only a high and shapeless mass, though the dirt and ruins announce that an edific6 of some importance once existed on this spot. Some persons insist that it was a fortress built by Caesar, but nothing indicates it to be a Roman structure ; while others pretend that Reynard, Count of Sens, caused it tq be built for the purpose of containing his treasures. The most probable opinion, however, is, that it wars an ancient fortress, built in the middle age, but not by the Romans. As w'e had now little to examine, we wished to see wdiat w^as most curious, and having heard much talk of the water^zoatches W'hich are made at Sens, w^ere desirous of having some idea of their nature ; M. Tarbe, in consequence, introduced us to the person who has gained the greatest repiUation by manufacturing these sort of articles, and who is a pawterer, named Hunot. These water-watches consist of a round box, divided into seven compartments, and each pardtiomis perforated w ith a small hole, to let the water escape drop by drop ; in consequence of which the box, b; this successive evacuation of the water from one comparimeiit into another, descends imperceptibly between two uprights or scales, along which are indicated the hours, w'hich the box points out as it descends. It is pretended that these clepsydrae w ere invented at Sens se- veral centuries ago, by a monk of St. Pierre-Ie-Vif. The town is ACCOUNT OF WATER WATCHES. known as the place at which these instruments are manufac- tured, and numbers of them are purchased by foreigners, as ar- ticles of curiosity. M. Hunot often sends packages of them to Ilussia, Spain, and even to America. The quantity of water employed for each clepsydra is the point of which the workmen make a mystery, but it might be easily as- certained. j Several ingenious watchmakers of Geneva have sent for these water-watches, to complete their collection of instruments for measuring time; they are sold at from three to six francs each, ac- cording to the size. Being informed that there had been lately dug up, iu the or- chard of the Misses Sauvalle, a Gaulic tomb, and which was ex- posed to ail the injuries of the weather, I went to examine it. it exhibited a rude sculpture of a pretorian soldier, with an ample sagum, which resembled the dress of a charioteer; in bis hand he holds a box, or basket with a handle, and on the stone is the fol- lowing inscription : VALERIUS SVS CAVSARI .. EX MILITE PRETO- PciANi FRAT. ET coNivx PARAV. Which is, whcii the con- tractions aic filled out, VALERIUS SUS CAUSARIUS, EXMILI- TES PRETORTAlsI PRATER ET CONJUX PARAVERUNT. Several persons who have seen this monument, have filled up the name and surname in an arbitrary manner. The word causa- riiis means an invalid, or veteran soldier. The s at the word liteSf has been omitted through the ignorance of the sculptor, who has also put an e instead of m, at pretoriani. The coffer cr basket, which Valerius holds in his hand, might give reason to suppose that he was employed in the office of distributing money or other gifts amongst the pretorians. An antiquary of Sens has pretended that the word Valerius indicates that he was an ancient lord, and founder of the burgh of Vallery ; but if this explanation be not satisfactory, it certainly did not cost the inventor any great effort. In the same spot were found several leaden coffins, which weighed upwards of three hundred pounds each. We next went to visit the ancient church of St. Saviiiian, which is now the property of a respectable family, who have conse- crated it as a burial place. We saw the crypt, and we were shown, upon the altar, some red Si)Ots, which were said to be drops of the blood of St. Saviuiaii. We copied some inscrip- tions relative to the martyrdom of Sts. Saviniau and Poicutian; they are cut in a very rude style, and cost us mucli trouble to ile- cypber; they are however venerable on account of their anti- quity, and are worthy of being removed to the cathedral. I'lie coiUcnts of the first mouumeut, >\ hich afford a Ihir specimen (^f the rest, are, w’hen deevphered, as follows : 36 MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. P^effibfe^ rosei Sanguinis, simipserunt coronas victoriie 7imj^ tyres CJfi'iiti Siivinianus et Potentianas own nmltitudine in^ gently ibi^umulati sunt pridie kale Ildar urn y Januarii. That IS, By the flowers of the rosy blood, the martyrs of Christ, Savi- nian and Poteutian, have acquired crowns of victory, together with an innumerable multitude, and were interred here on the eve of the calends of January, (the last day of December.) CHAPTER V. 5tANU SCRIP t or A WORK OF GILES OF ROME COTTON MAN'UFACTORY-^COMPACT OF THE LEAGUERS OF SEN& “—DEPARTURE FROM SENS — FOUNTAIN OF VERON — VILLENEUVE-SDK-YONNE JOIGNY, ITS BARRACKS, CHURCH, AND CAsTLE — VOVKS — BASSOU — APOIGNY— AUTISIODOHUM AUXERRE VARIOUS ANTIQUITIES SINGULAR CUSTOMS PUBLIC LIBRARY- — MANU- SCRIPTS CLOCK PETRIFACTIONS REMARKS ON SOME ILLUSTRIOUS INHABITANTS OF AUXERRE. Before our departure we visited M. Cave, the mayor of the town, who pressed me to offer to the Imperial Library a manuscript entitled Liber de regemine principum, composed by Giles of Rome, general of the order of Augustins, and archbishop of Bourges. The library already possessed some copies of this treatise, which has been printed at several periods, and transkted into Spanish ; but this manuscript is curious, on account of a vignette, which represents Giles of Rome ^reading his book to Philip the Fair, to whom he had been preceptor, and whose prayer he had composed; at the feet of the Prince are several courtiers, who are hearing the lec- ture, and expressing their admiration of it. We visited the cotton manufactory of M. Leuba, which con- tains fourteen spinning machines. There are one hundred work- men employed in this manufactory, and. the quantity of cotton daily produced is eighty pounds ; the principal sale of it takes place at Rouen. M. Hardi, formerly counsellor to the election of Sens, wlro possesses a large library, showed us a great curiosity, which was the original of an act of the Leaguers of Sens against the good King Henry. At that time Sens was divided iiJto four quarters, each of wliich signed an act of union against this Prince, ia STREETS AND BUILDINGS AT SENS. 37 M'liich they merely give him the title of King of Navarre. Each idity. Tiie villages at which we soon arrived in succession were those of Vores, Charuioi, Bassou, and Apoigny, from which wo de- scended to Auxerre, down a steep bill, from tlie top of \Uiich we saw the whole of the town, which appeared to be of a round form. We were soon over tb.e bridge, and were much pleased with the prospect of .the river, which contained a num- ber of little isles, animated by Hour mills in motion. Every thing that is neccs,sary to be known respecting Auxerre is cont-ained in the two enormous volumes of the indefiitigabie Abbe Lebeuf. The Romans, who doubtlessly corrupted the Celtic nune, called this town Antoslodorum, of which the word Auxerre is a derivation. St. Pelerin brought the Ciiris- tian religion to it in the third century ; and after the death of Clovis, it made a part of the kingdom of Orleans. Louis ie jDcbonnuire, comprised the Auxerrois in the .states of his son Charles ; and this county was after\\ards reunited to the Dutchy of Biu'guudy in lofif). Attila, the Saracens, the Normans, the Calvinists, and the English, have, at different times, ravaged this town, and the marks of their excesses are still shown. At present it is the cisief place of the department. It is m a very agreeable and picturesque situation. It is here that travellers, who come from Lyons by water, after having taken the route by land from Chalons, re-embark on the gross and heavy gal- liots which are called Auxerre coaches. There is a famous inn at this town called the Leopard, and kept bv a literary landlord. We of course stopped at it, and received the best attention from M. Bonnard, its owner. He was professor of mathematics at the central school, and has brought up several pupils, who now make a distinguished figure. Amongst them is M. Fournier, prefect of tiie Isere, \ihoisa good friend to his old tutor. M. Bomianl marned an estimable woman, who brought, as her portion, the inn in question. He does not appear to have studied the tieaiise of Apicius, le Cuisinier Francalsy nor rAlmanach des Gour- mands ; but he devotes himself peaceably to Ins mathematical calculations, and talks with his guests, without vuiubilit v or im- portunity, on subjects of literature and politics. Henco he is much esteemed by his neighbours, who treat him with all the ioiisideration which he merits. 40 MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. ‘We went from the inn to the residence of M. Tournier, who belongs to a family well known in the history of printing, and who is a bookseller at Auxerre ; he also amuses himself with literature, and has a cabinet of medals : but in this unfortunately .several pieces have been introd»ced of no value whatever, though many others are very curious and scarce. On quitting M. Tournier, we went to visit and dine with M. de la Bergerie, a senator well known for the services whicluhe has rendered to his country. This gentleman is very conversant with the muses, and his conversation is interesting and agreeable; the greatest rarity at bis table was Migrenne wine, an article \vhich is worthy of notice. Migrenne is a canton which was formerly a part of the domains of the bishops of Auxerre, and now belongs to M . de la Bergerie, who has boasted of its deiici- cious wine in a poem wdiich he has published, and from which I have extracted the following passage : Laissez les charlatans pretendrc, av'^ec de I’eau, Un acide sucre, fhihble on le sureaii Ou sur le gras terrain du fertile Surenne, “ Faire im viri qui surpasse on le Vosiie, ou Migrenne.’^ ' This wine is delicate, generous, and has a delicious smell: it is very strengthening to weak stomachs and convalescents, and there are few wines of Upper Burgundy which are preferable to it. It also has the very rare quality, for wines of this kind, that it will bear exporlation,^ The bishops of Auxerre used to send it soinetimej^ to England, and often to Italy. But the reputation of the wines of Auxerre in general, is of long standing ; they were praised by Heric, who lived in the ninth century. We had some amusement in the evening; for a company of strolling players being in the town, we went to see them perforna. Their theatre, which was erected in an old church, was small, but agreeably painted and decorated ; the curtain represented a view of Auxerre, taken from the quay of the Prefcctorate; and the pieces which they performed were The lleviezo of the Year Flllf Shakspeare in LoveT and House to be Sold.^' The orchestra w'as composed of amateurs, aixl led by the principal physician in the town. We thought that if this learned doctor did not always cure his patients, he at least treated them gaily ! The female servants, who came with lanterns to con- duct their masters and mistresses home, at the end of the per- formance, made a ludicrous appearance. The next day we visited the church of St. Germain, which is certainly a building of great antiquity, but does not make a very impressive appearance; it is rather under ground, as you descend several steps to enter it. It contains no monument, but the crypts are remarkable, and have been revered for many ages, on account 1 PLACING AT BALL IN CHURCHES. 41 of the great number of holy corpses which have been deposited in them. We entered them by the light of torches, and observed that the respect which the people bear for them is extreme. The Latin inscription which is over the entrance, forbids you to detilc the sacred place with your shoes: — Ne appropries hue; solve calceamentum de pedibus tuis.” These crypts are composed of low arches, sustained by small pillars ornamented with capitals ; the galleries, the altar, and the diapel, are arranged like upper stories. The wall appears to have been re-painted, about the beginning of the last century, and the inscriptions which point out the spots that contain the bodies of the Saints, seem to have been executed at the same time. Se- veral of the tombs are still entire, but many, others have been broken open by profane hands. The crypts in general were de- spoiled by the revolutionary army, as well as by the galley-slaves and prisoners of war, who were confined heie at various pe- riods. The cathedral, dedicated to St. Stephen, next attracted our attention ; the portal is ornamented with an infinity of sculp- tures; the choir is very fine, but the cangpy is of a bad taste. The whole building is badly lighted, and its religious obscurity excites a lovg for solitude ; yet the painted windows are of tiie finest kind, but they have been in part destroyed ; the rest of this grand building is in good preservation. At the entrance of the choir is the tomb of Nicholas Colbert, Bishop of xluNerre, who died in 1676, though the monument was not erected till 1713, when it was executed by order of M. de Colbert, Marquis de Tercy, the nephew of the prelate. The principal figure is a ge- nius who is extinguishing a torch with one hand, and in the other- holds a medallion of the bishop. Tills church formerly had some very remarkable customs. Tlic Festival of Fools was celebrated at it till the year 1407, und it was not till the year 15.38 that the custom of playing at ball in the nave was abolished. On Faster-day the junior canon furnished the ball, and presented it to the dean, who tossed it about to his com- panions, and the game finished by a banquet, at which wine was not spared. One of the most singular customs was the heirship to the dignity of canon in the house of Chastellux, in memory of Claude de Beauvoir, Lord of Chastellux, who retook the town of Cravant from a troop of banditti, and restored it, without plunder, to the chapter of St. Stephen, to which it had previously belonged. The canon officiating, after preaching the customary sermon, presented himself at the entrance of the choir in a militai v dress, with boots and spurs, while over this dress he woie a fine white surplice, neatly plaited ; a large belt was thrown over all, to which his sword was suspended: the spruce M 1 1. L i N .] r 42 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. canon had gloves on both hands, a falcon on his fist, an amesse* on the left arm, while in his right hand he held a hat, adorned with white feathers. This habiliment appeared at first sight ri- diculous, but on reflection it had, by the union of the attributes of religion and valour, a character of chivalry which was not un- pleasing to the imagination The musical instrument called the Serpent was invented, In 15Q0, for the use of this church, by a canon named Ednie Guillaume. We visited afterwards the public library, in which the manu- scripts most particularly attracted our notice. We were shewn one of the year 1472, small folio in paper, with two columns, which contained the poetry of Forlunatus, the best part of the works of Prudentius, and the Bucolicks of Virgil. We were shewn also a Tree of Battles, a manuscript on vellum, with two columns. The work known by the name of the Tree of Battles was compleated by Honoi e Bonnor ; it was printed twice in the fifteenth century. But, above every thing, a Plautus attracted our attention, a manuscript on vellum, small folio, containing the eight comedies of that author ; the writing very legible : a mo- dern hand has added at the end Monasterii sancti Germani Aii~ tissiodorensis congregationis sancti Manri ; and beneath, in the same hand with the manuscript, we read Johannes scripsit. We observed a missal, with the musical notes extremely ancient, and anterior to those invented by Gui D' Arezzo. This library, which is extensive, may contain some other literary curiosities ; but as all the books were piled in heaps together, w^e were only able to get a sight of a few, and were allow'ed no time for research. The room which leads to the one we have described, is deco- rated with engravings and pictures, the last of little note ; there is a plan of the city, and some portraits ; among others we ob- served that of Lebeuf, a profound writer, and author of various works, which may be found in the list of the authors of Bur- gundy. 1 could not find any of the inscriptions pointed out by Mont- faucon, Lebeuf, and Caylus; however, M.de la Bergerie, after the hints which I gave him, made the most careful researches, and at length succeeded in finding some few of them, which he will doubtless give a place in the library ; one of them is as under. AUG SACR DEAE ICANI TTETRICIVS AFRICAN DS DD, ♦ An oriianient which canons use when tliey go to the Iioly office. CURIOUS MONUMENTS. 43 ^^Jngusta sacrcc Deed Icauui T. Tetriciiis Africanus de suo dono dedit.'’ It appears by tbe above that the altar was dedicated to the Di- vinity of the Yoiiiie by Tetricius Atricaniis. It is curious on account of its showing the nature of the worship paid to the river, which furnishes at this time its name to the departnient of which we are treating. This monument is yet in existence, but it has been used in a building. It seems as if even the statue of the Goddess is demolished, as we see the feet of one only near the j)lace. PRU SALVTE DOMINORVM VSIM DEDTCAIT MODESTO ET PROBOCOS- The description of the Consuls Modestus and Probus, inform us, that this offering was made in the year of Christ 228, for the preservation of the Emperor Alexander Severus, and of the Em- press .Julia Mammaea, his Mother. In a small dwelling near the church of Notre Dame de la Cite is the tomb of Jucunda, with her figure and this in- scription : DM MORINENTUM IVCUNDE IVLIANI FlLIAiE It is described by Montfaucon and by Caylus. The Abbe de T — has a curious drawing of it, which represents the front of the wall, where he who made the discovery placed it, and the layers of a vine, which form a kind of frame-work round it. The canon, Erard de la Chasse, who caused this house to be re- paired in 1671, has engraved an inscription above it, in which it is said that Jucunda was the daughter of the emperor JuVunu We must not however join in that opinion; we read in several in- sci iptions the name Julian us, without taking it to be that em- peror. INI. Laire had written to me, that, in the trenches made at Atia, near Auxerre, on the borders of the Yonne, an equestrian statue had been found, which is said to be that of Brennus, the Gallic general, who, after the place being taken from the Romans, gave it up to pillage and to the flames. It was with difficulty that we credited the existence of this monument, However, I went to 44 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. M. Guise, a wine-merchant on the quay, who is the proprietor of it. 1 have carefully examined the pretended Breriniis; the horse is covered with a housing, ornamented with diamonds and crosses; upon this housing is a saddle with four pummels. The horse- man is drest in a tunic, which descends to the middle of the thigh, and is bound with a girdle. We may notice men cloathed in this fashion on the tapestry of Queen Matilda. M. Laire maintained his opinion on the strength of an inscription on a goblet of pottery found in the same place, and on which was the word Brennos.’^ This goblet has been broken, and it is evident that it was one of those vases so common among the Gauls, upon which w'e often see the name of the maker. The statue IS a sculpture of the eleventh or twelfth century. W e saw likewise, in the same place, a very mutilated statue, which represented perhaps some empress, but the features are by no means to be made out ; she holds a goblet in one hand, and in the other a cornucopia. It contained also a very fine capital of a pillar, which has be- longed to a heathen temple ; it is of the composite order; each front is ornamented with a bust placed in the midst of the leaves of the acanthus. These busts represent four Roman deities, then W'orshipped at Auxerre, and one designed w ith some of tlie em- blems peculiar to the Gauls ; they are Jupiter, Apollo, Mars, and Mercury. Jupiter is beardless, it was thus that the Greeks represented Jupiter Auxur, or Axur, of whom some monu- ments are still in existence. This Jupiter holds in his hands two thunderbolts, which are each composed of three arrows, having a point at the extremities. Apollo is represented as the god of the sun ; is naked, with a chlamys, or mantle, throw n over the shoulder ; he holds a torch in his hand ; the head is much mutilated. The bust of Mars is yet in a more deplorable condition ; the head is gone, but the god may be recognised by his cuirasse and oval buckler, which has for ornaments, those conical bodies imi- tations of the petrifactions called belemnites, or thunder-stones, The right arm, which is extended, held without doubt the for- midable lance which characterised the god of battles. The bust of Mercury is one of the most perfect. This god is dressed with his winged cap ; he holds In one hand a caduceus, in shape differing but little from those with w^hich he is generally represented ; his right hand holds a purse. According to the stile of sculpture of the edifice to which the capital of the pillar belongs, it must have been of the third cen- tury. In the evening we visited the town; w^e went first to St. Pierre, which the inhabitants call Saint Pere. This church. CELEBRATED CLOCK. 46 wliich is now a chapel of ease, has been much dilapidated; it is not ancient ; the gate bears the inscription of I 656 ; the body ap- pears, however, of greater antiquity, v^hich the architecture be- speaks ; the windows, of painted glass, were the gift of Berthe- lot, the mayor of the town, in l6<20, or The gate presents a mixture of the Gothic and modern taste, far from agreeable. We returned by Joubert street, where are to be seen some remains of the ancient walls, constructed with large hewm stones by the Romans. We passed by the square, in which is the great fountain. It is astonishing that they have not thought of obtaining a better sup- ply, by means of another fountain on the lower ground of the hill, w'hich is on a level with the town. The clock is placed over an arch, near a tow er terminated by a pyramid covered with lead, meant to serve, without doubt, for a belfry ; one of tlie points of the hand of the dial represents the sun, the other the moon, w’hich have their respective motions ; the last also shews the phases, it is said that the maker, named Jean, w ho executed this master-piece in 1469, had his eyes put out, that he might never be able to construct such another. This popular tradition is in existence with respect to other clocks more curious than this. We visited Saint Eusebe, another chapel of ease, which has nothing remarkable ; that which is dedicated to St. Paul, the patron of the vine-dressers in this country, is handsome- The bed of the Yonne contains a great many granites and speckled porous petrifications. The town is in part paved with roiled granite. The soil also contains numerous petritications. In the environs of Auxerre were formerly discovered a great many columns, mutilated statues, urns, and tombs, but they have all disappeared. We cannot quit Auxerre without making mention of the illus- trious men which the place has given birth to. Jean Claude Fournier, the founder, celebrated in the annals of typography: — La Cuine Sainte Pelage, who has described w'ith^so much truth the manners of chivalry, and who had so perfect a know- ledge of our ancient language : — Lebeuf, of whom we have al- ready spoken; and Sedain, a negligent writer, but from whose pen we still possess several charming operas, 46 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FINANCE, CHAPTER VL DEPARTURE FROM AUXERRE — THE VONNE— RAFTS — VER- M ANTON — GROTTOS OF ARCY PRECY I. E SEE LUCY SUR BOIS AVALON PICTURESQUE VIEW MONU- MENTS — COMMERCE — RAGE FOR PLAY — ROMAN WAR ROAD TO t3URGUNJ>Y — GRANITE — EPOISSE — CUPYLEs’ FORGES — SEMUR THE F A I R-- A R M A NCON — CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME — SINGULAR EAS-RELIEF. w V V E quitted Auxerre the 2 1st April, aiRl, in passing the bridge, which has nothing remarkable, we stopt some time to enjoy a most delightful prospect ; v\ e afterwards found the road to Troyes, which we left to take that of Lyon. Near to the bridge is a handsome country house, built in a very modern stile. We had on our right the Yonne, and some charming landscapes. The borders of the river were covered with felled wood, ready to he floated down or loaded in boats. Tills river seems to have been nobly adapted for commeixe, even in the time of ancient Gaul, but its name is not to be found in the classic authors. The votive inscription, discovered at Auxerre, iii which it is called Icainius, is the most ancient monument on which it is recorded. We do not find it mentioned before the ninth century, when it is designated under the name of Icauiias Hianna, Junia ; an antique tradition has, however, consecrated what was known of it in Gaul, after the conquest of the Homans, under the name of Icaima. This river is of great importance to trade, and is of easy navigation; after issuing from the mountains of Morvan, in the department of Hicore, where it has its source, it passes on to Ciamecy, where it becomes navigable, and thence proceeds to Auxerre and to Sens, carrying wdth its stream immense barges, laden wdth the richest presents of Bacchus. After having re- ceived the Cure at Cravant, and the Vaime at Sens, it empties itself into the Seine, at Montereau. It is pleasant to see the long and narrow rafts, which tliey call traises, passing with the rapidity of a bird’s flight, and winch convey to Paris a great part of the w'ood necessary for the con- sumption of that great city. This wood is cut in the forests ; they CURIOUS RAFTS. 47 sell it in bundles to burn, or square it for llie carpenter. Hie timber intended for the latter use is conveyed by land-carriage to the river, when the boats are laden with it. The billets bear the mark of the proprietor, and are conveyed to the small rivers which join the Yonne, and into which they are thrown pell mell. A watch is kept along the shores of the rivers, so vigilant that not a single piece is ever lost. The Cure, the Armancon, and the \ onne, are the rivet s w hich conduct these hoating logs. The overseers distinguish by the marks to whom they belong. Those billets, bound with withes, are laid on casks, placed at equal dis- tances, forming rafts, w hich are conducted by three men to Pans. These hardy pilots turn dextrously round the points of the shore, and avoid the flats, with w hich they are well acquainted ; but par- ticularly ill shooting the bridges, under which they pass with the rapidity of lightning, tliey show the most perfect address and management ; scarcely has tlie head of the raft appeared in view, than it is again almost out of sight. As soon as the raft is arrived at Paris, men plunge into the river up to the middle, loose the bundles, and put the billets in a heap into the V, aggon ; how'ever a sudden fall of rain, or a hard frost, oc- casions at times bad accidents, and sometimes a moment’s negli- gence in steering those fragile vehicles in their proper direction, the raft strikes against the piles of a bridge, is broken in an in- stant, and the waters covered with the wrecks, which are taken up by boatmen, but of w'hich the owner seldom recovers more than a very small part. We crossed the celebrated vineyard-piot of Frances, and that of Coulange. We passed also near to Cravant, w here the Yonne receives the Cure, and we changed horses at Vermanton, a small towm know'll in the ninth century. There is an engraving of the gate of the church in the history of Burgundy, hy Ai bain Plan- cher. It is at this time in a bad state. The great tower, which IS in the middle of the principal street, and which serves as a pri- son, has a handsome appearance. Alter having passed Lucy sur Cure, w'e w'ere half a league from the Grottos of Arcy, whicli are celebrated on account of the surprising eftecls produced by the stalactites and calcareous incrustations which form themselves into pillars and lustres, pre- senting an appearance of magic. These Grottos have been de- scribed by several authors, who compare them to those of Anti- paros. In the months of March and April they are tilled with water, and the entrance to them is diflicuit. As there are in France a great many such, and us night came on, we did not think proper to run the risk of catching cold, or at any rate of having a bad lodging for our curiosity. We left on one side, the road to Tonnerre, crossed Procy Ic Sec, 4S MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. where we found a country separated by extensive forests, that of Hervaiix on the left, is the most considerable. We took horses at Liicyle Bois, as the night approached. The post-master, who is at the same time an innkeeper, at ni st pretended that he could not furnish us, to compel us to lodge with him, but seeing that we were resolved not to alight, nor to stop until we arrived at Avalon, he consented to give us safe conduct thither. The entrance to Avalon is striking by its regularity ; the town is handsome, and agreeably situated. The under prefect, M. De Chateauvieux, an old officer, had the politeness to accompany us. The inhabitants of Avalon have considerable taste for music ; it is their favourite amusement ; they had formed, before the revolution, a club called the Society of Melopkilites. The room where their concerts were held, was decorated by the same artist who painted the curtain of the theatre of Auxerre. The courteous and friendly M. de Chateauvieux conducted us to the Cours de ia Petite Porte, called also Petit Cours. No stranger ought to pass Avalon without seeing this |)roinenade, w'here he may contemplate the most delightful effects of nature, and admire the most charming scenery, it is astonishing that these enchant- ing landscapes are so little known to travellers. The two views of the Petit Cours resemble some of the scenery of Swdtzerlaiid, but in miiiiature. These beautiful prospects have been painted, and the pictures were formerly in the Luxemburg gallery. The Cousin seems to play wantonly amidst llie fertile vallies, where it forms various charming lakes and picturesque wxiterfalls, near a thousand toiscs in depth. The town stands in a plain ; a little bridge crosses the river. The valley is surrounded with small hills, where the pointed rocks show their heads from among the thickets, and above the verdure, wliile the most delightful gardens in terraces appear as suspended on the declivities of the hills. From the terrace of Petit Cours is seen the remains of a Roman way. The promontory on which Avalon is built consists entirely of red coarse-grained granite, which they call Pierre de Mor-> vandelle ; that is to say Marvand. Avalon has besides two handsome walks, tliat of the late garden of the Capuchins, and that which is called Terreau. We would have inspected the library, which is in the college, hut the hooks kept there were in as much confusion as they would have been in the shop of a bookseller wffio was on the point of moving to another house. There is nothing worthy of remark about the church of Avalon. We saw in a building which was formerly dedicated to St. Martin, four columns of Cipolliiio Verde Antico. They say that they came from the Temple of Apollo, hut it is au assertion without proof. M. de Chateauvieux, who showed CHURCH OF VEZELAY. 49 the greatest zeal for every thing belonging to his situation, in- tends to dig In quest of antiquities, at Mause, three league^f from Avalon, where some monuments have already been found. The beautiful columns of cipoUino verde, of w'hich I have just spoken, prove that the Romans formerly inhabited Avalon. They make in this town a great quantity of casks, which, al- though they appear rough outside, are better put together tlian those of Saulieu ; they are preferred to the latter, and are much in requisition. There are not many vineyards about Avalon, but they carry on a considerable trade in the wines of the surrounding countries, and the wood of the neighbouring forests. There are also in the town two manufactories, w'hich make coarse paper. 7Aie commerce consists chiefly in corn, wines, and, above all, in wood, which comes from Morvand. The rage for gaming in this little town, which is immediately in the grand route from Dijon and Lyon, presents an absolute vor- tex ; four principal coffee-houses were continually full of gamblers ; the seductive but hazardous games of Trente-un and Roulette, were constantly played. The gamesters came there from twenty leagues round. 1 have seen a thousand Louis staked on a single card. We found in the inn where we put up, an unfortunate wretch who had been totally ruined at one of these houses. Near Avalon we passed the magnificent causeway which Agrip- pa, son-in-law of Augustus, constructed about the year 700 of Rome, to go from Lyon to Boulogne. Some remains of it are yet found, though it is difficult to distinguish them. There is to be seen also, about a league from Avalon, in a little valley, an old Gothic bridge, supported on two arches ifi ogee. It is beyond this bridge that are discovered the remains of the Roman cause- way. I had a great desire to see the ancient church of Vezelay, which contains many curiosities; but this little excursion would have taken two days, and the weather was very bad, which made me continue my journey. We quitted the road which leads di- rectly to Lyon by Autun, and made a great circuit to see Dijon and a part of ancient Burgundy. The pleasure I enjoyed, and the information which 1 acquired, sufficiently repaid me for the trouble and time of going so far about. We continued our way the 2Cd qf April ; the road was a granitic soil. We passed Epoisse, and came to Cussy-les-Forges ; soon after which the granite is no longer seen. Cussy-les-Forges is dirtv and stony, but the granite lies underneath, and forms the principal part of the soil. After passing the avenue which leads to tlie Chateau de Ragny, we descend into a deep val- ley, and pass the Seram, which runs between rocks of a consi- derable height, over a bridge. There are no vines, but some MILLIN.] © 50 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. coppices of wood, through which appear rocks of that species of graoite which is called burgundy granite. After travelling through fields of corn, we crossed a small wood, about half a league in extent, and arrived at Semur, a town built on a steep rock, which we were obliged to climb, after having passed the bridge over the Armancon. Semur at present makes no great figure ; nevertheless this little town, a short time before the revo- lution, had some importance; it was inhabited by several rich tamilies. We found it full of people; as it was the day of the fair, tliere was no possibility of being accommodated at the inn of the C-{)te-di' Or, where travellers generally put up. After a great deal of trouble, we were c mpelled to lodge in an unwholesome inn, full of car 'ers and pedlars and to sleep in a room which wgs a thoroughfare to several others. M. Bei thet, the under-prefect w^as ill, and unable to receive strangers ; his affectionate and obliging manners interested us much, particularly ou seeing him so much afflicted; we ought ever to hold him in grateful remembrance for having introduced us to the acquaintance, and, 1 may say, the friendship of M.Bruzard, a young man of great good sense and talent, and well versed in pliilosopliy; he had the goodness to afford us a lodging with his respectable parents, who shewed us every civility ; and, during the three days which we spent at Semur, we remained wdth them. We went to see the town in his company, together wuth a young physician, named Gamier, who had published, in the Maga- zin JLjicyclopedique,^’ several excellent extracts from valuable works on the Medical Sciences, and has since settled in Semur, which is his native place. We then were shewn the w alk which has been made on a rampart of the ancient enclosure of the towm. The situation, although inferior to that of Avalon, is nevertheless very picturesque ; the Armanqon runs at the foot of the town, as the Cousin whalers Avalon. I'he Armancon is rather a torrent than a river, and is almost dry during several months of the year ; it encir- cles the town on three sides, w hich gives it the appearance of a pen- insula. The torrent forms some very pretty cascades in the bottom of the valley; the borders are beautified with gardens, meadows, and small houses, which makes the view/ very picturesque, but they have frequently suffered much from so dangerous a situation. We passed in front of the prison, winch consists of four large towers, w hich are also very high ; and we went to see the church, the principal gate of which has nothing remarkable; the statues with which it was formerly decorated, are entirely mutilated ; but if the grand entrance has nothing to attract the attention of an ama- teur of historical monuments, that is not the case w ith one of the •side gates, the arch of w'hich is adorned with statues representing the seasons, and the different labours of each month ; it is a kind EXPLANATION OF A MONUMENT. of zodiac, similar to that at Vezelay, and such as may be seen at Paris, at Arras, at Strasbourg, at Autun, and in other places ; the upper pai t of the gateway within the arch is remarkable, as it serves to recall to the memory the death of the Count Dal mace, who was killed by the hand of his son-in-law, Robert the First, Duke of Burgundy, and son of Robert King of Fi ance. This prince was created Duke of Burgundy in the year 1032, by his brother King Henry the First; he was the head of the first race of the Dukes of Burgundy. His temper was so irritable, that in his rage he. was guilty of the greatest excesses ; he had espoused Heii^, the daiighter of Dalmace, the Lord of Semur. Robert, being offended with his father-in-law at a banquet, stabbed him in several places, till he fell dead at his feet. Sorrow and re- morse soon succeeded ; he was shocked at his crime, and had re- course to the expiatory means consecrated by many examples of those times; he made donations to the churches, and founded the priory of Semur ; he had the representation of his parricide en- graved on the gate, to atone, if possible, as well by a public con- fession, as by this testimony of a sincere repentance. This sin- gular monument still exists ; the crown, which was on the Duke’s head, in the different groups where ht was represented, is the only broken part which has been defaced. This monument would not perhaps have escaped revolutionary rage, if it had not re- presented the crime of a prince. The above representation is divided into three compartments ; to the right, in the lower compartment, is represented the banquet, where Robert committed the crime. As we have no circumstan- tial detail of the event ; it is difficult to trace the story. The ex- planation I conceive to be this — There are only three persons at the table, with crowns on their heads, and two others without. We may presume that the banquet, at which this fatal event happened, was a solemn feast, at which other princes assisted. Perhaps we see, near to Robert, his wife and some duke or count, who was a visitor. I take Robert to be the one who has a beard. What makes me of that opinion is, that he is represented thus in the groupe that follows ; in addition to which he is alone, whilst the others are together, and probably on a kind of form ; he is seated upon a cushioned chair, ornamented with the faces and paws of lions. These seats, which were imitations of the ancient Roman curule chairs, are represented upon the Diptycse, and other mo- numents of the middle age, and are the signs of royal, imperial, or consular dignity. Such is the one they preserve at Paris, in the Cabinet of the Imperial Library, and which is commonly known by the name of the Chair of Dagobert. One of the crow ned guests points out to the Duke his victim, the wretched Dalmace, lying at his feet, and from whom a dog has taken a glove. The Duke 52 MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. seems already conscious of the enormity of his crime, and as if he siift'ered remorse. The table is not splendidly served ; a covered bason, a dish, in which is a piece of meat, and a jug, are all the articles. We have several other examples which prove the fru- gality attending the repasts of that epoch, or at least the simple manner in which they were represented. In the next group, as I imagine, the Duke is represented re- garding with horror the unhappy Dalmace, whose body, extended on the earth, seems to call for the vengeance of Heaven. The duke flies with horror from the feast which he has marred by this atroci- ous deed. Near him is a monk, who has his hand placed on the shoulder of a young man, holding a book under his arm. This monk, cloathed with the scapulary and hood, symbols of his profession, may be looked upon to be St. Hugo, founder and abbot of Cluny, son of Dalmace and of Aremburge de Vergy, and also brother of Helie, wife of Robert. Thus the young man would be a son of Dalmace ; but, in comparing this monu- ment with others of the same time, it appeared more likely that this monk represented the Confessor of Dalmace, who shewed to Robert the soul of his fathei>in-law received into Heaven. The book is, in the ancient paintings, a symbol of beathication. Robert has recourse to the means of all superstitious princes ; he seeks an easy expiation, by donations to the church, and in distributing alms. We see, in the third gronpe, a holy personage, described as such by the book he holds in his hand, who gives to the poor, without doubt on the part of the Duke, bread and fruits, which are in a basket; near him is a man who receives some of them in a vase ; he inclines his head to present them to a crip- ple, who walks supporting himself on a short crutch with three feet, which might serve also for a seat. These means of expiation may be supposed to have have succeeded for the Duke ; but he must receive a formal ab- solution from the ecclesiastic power, which had the exclu- sive right of dispensing the clemency pf the Deity. The head of the hgiire of the third groupe, represented on its knees, is broken; if it were perfect, we should certainly see the crown, and it was on account of which it was mutilated. The duke Robert implores his pardon ; a priest, so described by the book he holds, says to him, in raising his finger towards Heaven, that God is touched with the sincerity of his repentance, and appeased by the gifts he has bestowed on the Church ; that at length his crime is forgiven him. Another priest, on his knees, solicits the favours of the Deity. A tower and pinnacles indicate that the scene passed in the town, but there is no representation f the Chinch. We have seen in the first compartment, the crime of Robert, and PASSAGE THROUGH PURGATORY. 51 ^vhat he did to expiate it ; and afterwards the pardon which he ob- tained during his life. The second presents the result of that ab- solution after his death. We see, on the left, pinnacles which describe the town of Semur, and, in the inclosui e of the walls, a church is discovered, that of Notre Dame, which the Duke built in expiation of his crime, and in which he was en- tombed. In front of the church appears a cloud, wdiich resembles a heap of bre and smoke, meant to represent Purgatory, through which he must of necessity pass; for God, notwithstanding his expia- tions, his repentance, and his alms, could not admit him in the abodes of the just, in the bosom of innocence and pui ity, except his soul had been purged by suffering a long time the punishment due to his crime, nor receive him in the regions of eternal bles- sedness, as the recompence of his piety. The Duke is repre- sented as a youth, to signify that his soul is stripped of every thing earthly. Several saints attend him in his exit from Purgatory ; one of them, who is bearded, holds him by the arm to conduct him to the bark. It appears very singular that the passage to this abode of the saints should be represented exactly as the Greeks picture the passage to the Elysian Fields. The fable of the indexible Boatman is of great antiquity, and we sometimes see it introduced in our religion ; it is not found, liowever, in the monuments of the early ages of Christianity, but it is again produced under ano- ther form, about the eighth century, an epoch when many fables were introduced in the histories of France, and in religious sub- jects. On the sepulchral monument of Dagobert the First, we see, in the midst of a stormy sea, a bark filled with demons, who are conducting the soul of the unhappy prince. Tliis mo- nument is now in the building called the Museum of French Mo- numents. Michael Angelo, following the above examples, has introduced Charon and his boat in his Last Judgment.” To return to the Duke ; — the bark w inch we have mentioned above is not filled with demons; it represents not the passage to flellj but, on the contrary, the passage to the abode of the blessed ; the boatman is sitting, and leaning on the oar, w ith which he rows the boat; two of the saints, whom we see in the preceding group, are standing ; one of them has his head uncovered, and holds a book ; the other, cloalhed as a monk, leans on a great sword, wFich leads us to suppose, that it represents St. Paul ; at the stern sits a youth ; the extremities of the arms are broken ; but it is easy to perceive, by the position, that his hands were joined ; this is the soul of Robert, w ho is at length going to the abode of the saints. The Deity is at the top of the pediment ; his right hand is raised up to diffuse on the earth the blessings which are 54 MILLIN’s TRAVJ'-LS IN FRANCS, the effects of his bounty; and in his left is a globe, the symbol of his Omnipotence ; two Angela are offering praise, to shew the perpetual devotion of the blessed ; the clouds which surround this last part of the composition represent the Heavens, generally understood to be the habitation of the Deity, although he is every where present. Such is the explanation which may be given of the figures of the bas-relief. This work, however, could not have been done in the lifetime of Robert, as there is reference to his death, and his entrance into the kingdom of Heaven. The tradition also tells us, that he was interred under the gatew'ay, where this his- tory is designed. 1 presume, therefore, that it was the monks and canons of this abbey who caused this bas-relief to be sculp- tured, after the death of tlie Prince. We have other examples of facts equally extraordinary, I have published, in my National jintiquiti.es, 3. monument of the collegiate church of Ecouis, which represents tiie Deity rewarding Enguerrand de Marigny, for the injustice he suffered from Charles de Valois, w’ho caused him to be hanged in consequence of the hatred he bore him. Marigny presents to the Almighty a crown of cords, signifying the manner of his death. It is astonishing that Plancher makes no men- tion of the crime of Robert, in his voluminous history of Bur- gundy; it is true it would have taken something from the great character which this monk gives of that Prince, because he was bent factor to several churches. But the fact is not the less true; it is recorded in tlie Life of St. Hugo, Abbot of Cluny,” by Hiidabert ; for although this author does not give the detail, he says expressly that Dalinace, father to the holy Abbot, w'as assas- sinated by Robert, his son-in-law, at a feast. According to the tradition of the country, we are assured, tl.at it was the desire of the Prince to transmit to posterity the representation of his crime, "idle bas-relief which 1 have described, gives support to this tra- dition, which several learned authors have adopted without diffi- culty. On the last p>iilar, to the right hand, in the body of the church, there is a painting on wood, representing Jesus Christ raising his right hand, with the fore-hnger and middle finger ex- tended, and holding in the left the globe, surmounted by a cross. This picture, painted in 1^290; has unfortunately been repainted ; as we see by tlie inscription at ih® bottom— Mec Jierifeiit mgr. Fhilibertq Bkinchon, huic villoe de SenemurOy anno Do^ mini, Ciy)° nonagesimo IX And low^er down we see: llepeint, Kiig. It is probable that the painter has followed the original outlines. On the side of the head we see — Ego sum vioy veritas et vita ; and on the frame on each side, Est superexcel- lens senientia. The painted windows in the chapels are very curious; in one of CURIOUS PAI'NTEO GLASS. 5.5 them we see the different operations in the manufacture of wool- len cloth; it is divided into four compartments ; in the first, two men are employed in weaving; one throws the shuttle; the other receives it. In the second, a man naked in a great tub fulls tlie cloth. In the third, a man cards it; the instrument vvhicli he makes use of shews two ro\\^s of carding-wires, which resemble those which are used by the knitters of stockings and caps ; it ap- pears ornamented with heads of the dipsacus^ or fullers’ thistle, called, for that reason, chardon d honnetier. In the fourth com- partment, a workman shears the web, already fulled and carded, with a pair of large shears, which have exactly the same form with those in use at the present day for the same purpose. The dress of the workmen consists of only two pieces, namely, a kind of pantaloons which cover at once the thighs, legs, and feet, and a short waistcoat. In another chapel are tw^o compartments of painted glass, which represent the labours of the butcher; in the first a man is knock- ing dow n an ox with the back part of an hatchet ; and, in the se- cond, one placed behind his stall, cuts up the meat with a cleaver. These men are clothed differently from those before described; they wear stockings and an apron. Above these are windows badly painted, which represent the beheading of St, John the Baptist, and the history of St. Reine. The windows of another chapel are more remarkable for the beauty of the colours than for the interest of the subjects, which are badly designed ; they are all taken from the bibie and difficult to make out; but the red and blue may be compared to the brightness of precious stones. In another chapel, in a side niche, is a standing figure, about two feet high, on a pedestal, on the side of wliich is the name of St. Eloy. This Saint is represented in the attitude of a farrier, covered w ith a little hat, clothed in a common coat, w iili a leather apron, suspended at his neck by two strings; before him is an anvil, and he has in his hand a horse’s foot : on the front of this anvil, are the several tools of a farrier; such as a ham- mer, pincers, horse-shoes, 8cc. It is said that St. Eloy is the patron of all those who work in metals. This figure ap}>ears to be of the fifteenth century, and shews the form of a farrier's tools at that epoch. We afterwards visited the library, which is kept in a very hand- jiome room in the late convent of the Ursulines. 36 MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. CHAP. VII. MANDUBII — MOUNT AUXOIS — C.ESARS CAMP ALESIA— - SAINT REINE OF ALESIA — CASTLE OF BUSSY — POR- TRAITS, WITH REMARKABLE INSCRIPTIONS. JIaVING heard much mention of the Chateau de Biissy, and of the singular paintings with which it is decorated, which had very much excited our curiosity, we had a desire to go there, and had the additional inducement of seeing in our way tlie place where Ccesar vanquished the Gallic nations, who armed in defence of their liberty. We therefore hired a post-chaise, and set off about ten o’clock in the morning. The road was very bad, and broken up by the rain : W'e were obliged to get out about twenty times; and at last left the chaise near a mill, at some distance from the village of Saint Heine, wdiere the postillion had orders to wait for us. There we could contemplate the celebrated field where so many brave Gauls found an honourable death in defending their country. The valiant Vercingentorix, who at that time had conducted the w'ar, was appointed General. After an unfortu- nate engagement, he retreated into Alesia, the principal city of the country of the Mandubii, a people w'ho were subject to the iEdui. Caesar besieged the place, which was on the summit of Mount Auxois. The foot of this mountain is washed by two small rivers, the Ose and the Oserain. Csesar drew his lines about the city; his fortifications consisted of two ])arallel trenches; that which was in the valley had been tilled by the water of the rivers. JDuring this time, Vercingentorix was also intrenched under the walls of the city, and his camp was fortified by a trench and a wall of stones six feet in height ; he sent back his cavalry, and gave an order to each horseman to return with all those who w^ere capable of bearing arms, finding that lie bad not provisions to last more than thirty days. The Gauls chose out of each people a choice troop. Gaul made a great effort to shake off her bondage ; two hundred and fifty thousand foot, and eight thousand horse, marched to the country of the /Ediu. The command was con- fided to four chieftains, and this formidable ariny marched on to- wards Alesia, as to certain victory. Caesar found himself between the besieged, always in readiness to make a vigorous sortie, and a host of men animated with the hope of vengeance. His good MEMORABLE BATTLE. 57 fortune, however, did not forsake him, but again seconded the ef- forts of his genius. The auxiliaries, engaged in a defile, vvere de- feated, a frightful carnage ensued, and Vercingentorix, having lost all hopes, was compelled to surrender at discretion. Authors have related differently the circumstances attending that memorable battle, which will be always a curious point of history, geography, and military antiquity. I shall not attempt to reconcile them, nor resume the discussion ; it suffices for our contemplation to view the summit where the last defender of the liberty of the Gauls was forced to yield to the victorious Cassar ; the declivity of the mountain where that hero dug his impregnable lines,* the surrounding heights on which the confederated Gauls encamped; the mount of wdiich Vergasilaunus made the long circuit at break of day, to surprise an enemy ever on his guard ; the dehle where he had the rashness to engage ; and that, by which Csesar, having liimself made a diversion, fell upon the rear of the enemy, which decided the victory. We gave a melancholy tribute to the memory of these noble Gauls, without being able, at the same time, to refuse to their enemy a tribute also of that admiration which genius and courage ever command. Alesia w’as one of the principal cities of the Gauls, according to Diodorus. Hercules, on his way back from Sicily, laid the foun- dation ; and it was called Alesia from a Greek word signifying terror. The manner in which this city was founded, as given by^ that author, is as ridiculous as the etymology of its name, which is derived from some Celtic w'ord; but the opinion of Diodorus proves, that he attributes to it great antiquity. It is probable that it was destroyed by Caesar. It was rebuilt under the Emperors; and it was in Alesia that they invented the art of plating by heat the ornaments of the horses, and the yokes of the cattle which drew the carriages. The time when Alesia was destroyed is not exactly ascertained ; in 865 the vestiges only remained ; instruments of sacritice, house- hold utensils, arms and medals, discovered in the mountain, fur- ther concur to prove the antiquity of this memorable place. Although Alesia w'as destroyed, there yet remained some ha- bitations. It received a new splendour at the time w hen the rer licts of Saint Heine were removed thither, w hich have since been transported to Fiavigny ; however the worship of Saint Eeine has been continued at Alesia. They believe that, after having resisted the seductions of Olybrius, and braved the rage of her execu- tioners, she suffered martyrdom within its walls. Alesia thus received the name of Saint Reine d'Aiise; however, the time of the revolution, the name of the saint was suppressed, and the village simply called Alise. At the foot of the hill arv' tlie four pieces of stone w hich they say formed the tomb of thf MILLIN'.] H 5)5 MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. saint; these stones have been much lessened in dimensions, from the zeal of the pious^ who were anxious to preserve morsels of them as relicts. The holiday of Saint Heine formerly attracted a number of pil- grims to this place ; as many as twenty thousand have on some occa- sions been present. This pilgrimage recommenced since the Con- cordat, to the great joy of the inhabitants, who are able to sell their wine, as well as their chapelets, of which they make a great quantity; they make the beads of them w ith the middle part of the bones of the legs of domestic animals ; the extremities serve to pave the rooms, and this singular inlaid work is esteemed as one of the curiosities of the village of Saint Heine. The tomb of the saint is not the only curiosity which attracts attention in the village ; there is also a celebrated fountain, the waters of which contain a purgative salt; they attribute to them miraculous effects, in the cure of ririgwmrms. There is also an hospital in the village, w Inch is inhabited by bathers during a certain season of the year. At Alise is the following curious inscription, discovered in 1652 : ri. CL. PHOFESSVS. isTGELi. OMiNIBUS. HONORIBUS. APVD AEDVOS. ET LINGONAS FVNCTVS DEO. MORITASGO PORTICEM. TESTAMEN i O. PONI JVSSIT. SV'O NOMINE .IVLAE VTRGVLINAE VXORIS ET FILIARUM CLAVDIAEPROFESSAEETIVLIANAEVIRGVLAE That is to say — Ti. Claudius Professus Niger, after having gone through all the employments among the iEdui and the Lingo- nes, has ordained by his will, that they should raise a por- tico to the God Moritasgus, in his name, and in that of his w ife, Julia Virgiilina, and of his daughters Claudia Professa and Juliana Virgnla. It is placed at the foot of a fountain in the garden of the late convent of Cordeliers. Jt is partly covered w ith moss, wdiich tends to destroy it, and to render it almost unintelligible ; it ought in- deed to be conveyed to the Library at Semur. The hills of Saint Reine, as well as those of Semur, Montherd, Vitteaux, and Flavigny, produce an abundance of the common ^ wines, which are consumed in the country, or used for distilling brandy. The corn goes to the market of Dijon, or to Paris by Auxerre. The road from Alise to Bussy is impassable ; w'e pursued on foot the borders of the Ose, to find the Castle of Bussy. The THE CASTLE OF BUSSY. o9 circuit of the mountain must first be made, and the castle is iio^ seen until you are at the entrance. It is situated in a defile of mountains, and of rocks shadowed by lofty firs, and surroui;dtd by moats full of water. It was inUhis castle that Roger, Count of Rabutin, passed seventeen years of his exile, from 16^5 to 1682. Bussy had a great dislike to the chace, which might have amused his mind. He gave himself up to meditation, study, and to every devotion for want of something to do ; he covered the walls of his castle \^ ith a number of pictures which displayed the pride of his character, his love of gallantry, and the regret which he fell in resigning the profession of a courtier. The biiiiding consists of a center and two wings, which togethei form the figure of a horse-shoe. The body of the house seems to have been constructed in the time of Rabutin. The two w ings are of an architecture still more ancient, and sufficiently prove that they must have been built in the time of Henry 11. In the left wing is the library, at the end of which we enter the chapel. .The tower which is at the other extremity of the library, is the most re- markable part ; the windows of this tow^er are ornamented w ith lit- tle Cupids ; eac h group is suspended to a band filled w ith gallant inscriptions ; most of these are very common, and shew no great talent for poetry. The following is one of the least insipid : “ Casta est quam nemo rogavit.’^ Savez-vous bien comment ellea garde son coeur? C’est qu’on n'a pas tache de s^en rendre vainqueur.” All the small pannels are filled with subjects of JNlythology, Or- pheus, Venus and Adonis, Cephalus and Procris, The Tall of Phaeton, the Centaurs, the Numidian Lion, and the Rape of Eu- I’opa. At the bottom of these are also inscriptions in verse. Under the picture of Pigmalion, we read, Tout le monde en amour est tous les jours dupe ; Les femmes nous en font accroire : Si vous voulez aimer, et n'etre point tromp6, Aimez un femme d' ivoire." Under that of Procris we read, Eprouver si sa femme a le coeur precieux', Ce’st etre impertinent autaut que curieux. Un peu d’obsourit4 vaut, en cette inatiere, Mille tbis mieux que la luniicre,” Cephalus is dressed in an enormous periwig, according to the fashion of those times ! H • 60 SIILLIM’s travels in FRANCE. Above these pannels are the portraits of eleven women ; in the middle is that of Roger Rabutin himself. These portraits are each accompanied with an inscription. The following are those most worthy of notice : First, — Gillonede Harcoiir, Marchioness de Piennes, by her first marriage, and by the second, Countess de Fiesque a wo- man of a noble presence, a moderate fortune, and who had the heart of a queen. Second, — Isabelle Cecile Flurant de Cheverny, Marchioness de Montylat, who by her inconstancy has dune honour to the Ephesian matron. Third, — Marie de Beauvois le Loup, the wife of N. de Choiseul, Due du Plessis Praslin, pretty, lively, well informed, particularly of the faults of others, very sparing of her friendship, but not sparing of any thing to those to whom she gave it. Fourth. — Catharine de Bonne, Marchioness de la Beaume * the prettiest mistress in the kingdom, and the most amiable, if she had not been the most unfaithful. Fifth, — Louise Antoinette Therese de la Chatre, daughter of Edme de la Chatre, colonel of the Swiss Guards, Marchioness d’Humieres, Lady of the Palace to Marie Terese of Austria ; a. w'oman whose virtue, without beitig either austere or prudish, would have satisfied the most fastidious. Sixth, — Madelaine d’Angonnes, Marechalle de Lafferte Sen- ncterre ; handsome and well-disposed, but to whose conduct the care of her husband (who was a shrewd man), was not unne- cessary. Seventh, — Catharine d’Augonnes, Countess d’Olomie ; the most beautiful woman of her time, but not so celebrated for laeauty as for the use she made of it. Eighth, — Isabelle de Harville Faloise, the wife of N. de Mont- morency ; worthy of a man not only of the highest qualitv^ but of one of the most amiable character. Ninth,-—lLiUc\e de Tourville, the wife of N. de Gouville ; handsome, amiable, witty, and as capable as any woman in the w^orld of making a man happy, if she would but have loved him ; one of the best friends that could be. Tenth, — Isabelle Angelique de Montmorency, daughter of Boutteville, Duchess of Chatillon, Princesse of Meclebourg ; to whom one could refuse neither the purse nor the heart, but who would set little value upon either. In the chamber of Bussy, the ceiling is ornamented w ith blue paintings, which represent the Sybils ; there are also two ranges of portraits of persons of the house of Rabutin, placed immedi- ately one after the other ; the last two are those of Madame de Giignau; they are handsome. The saloon is adorned with two SEraES OF PORTRAITS. Gl ranges of portraits of commanders, with inscriptions of their names, their quality, and sometimes the circumstances of their life, and their degree of relationship to tlie house of Rabutin. Between the two windows over the court, there are these em- blems : First, a hand holding a pair of scales, in one of which is the figure of a woman, who had deceived I)im ; she is outweighed by the empty scale. There is this motto, Levior aura,” Lighter than the air.” This woman is the Marchioness de Montglat. The Second; The Goddess Fortune; she has the features of the same lady; the motto is, Leves ambo, ambo ingratae;” Both changeable, and both inconstant^'’ This ungrateful woman had made Rabutin very unhappy ; he doated on her, and believed that she was equally attached to him. When, by the indiscretion of the marchioness de la Beaume, he was sent to the Bastile, this lady forsook him, and, to excuse herself, pretended remorse, and a return to the duties of religion ; but the real cause of her inconstancy was the disgrace of Bussy, and the change of his fortunes. He seemed to feel this perfidy more sensibly than either his imprisonment or his exile ; for he mentions her perpe- tually in his letters ; he wrote of her to several ladies ; he seemed always endeavouring to forget her, and repeats a thousand times in prose and verse, that he is entirely cured of his passion ; which proves that she was ever in his thoughts. At last he determined not only to make it the subject of laughter himself, but to make it so to others ; and he quotes in one of his letters, the two de- vices I have mentioned above. This bitter irony is a proof of his passion ; a contemptuous silence would have been a better proof of indifference. Bussy thought of his inconstant mistress a much longer time than he chose to acknowledge ; for in his let- ters, written fourteen years afterwards, he continues to abuse her in prose and verse. The library is in a long gallery, which is also adorned with a great number of portraits, with inscriptions, and a few^ without any. These portraits form several series ; they are thus in- scribed ; First. Celebrated men of letters. The following are a few of the inscriptions. Guy DU Faure, lord of Pibrac, advocate-general of the parliament of Paris ; a man wise, coui teous, eloquent, and agreea- ble ; who in his verses comprised every moral and religious precept.” Michel de Montaigne, a gentleman of Gascony, who in his Essays shewed a very superior understanding.” Rabelais, Sec. curate of Meudon ; who after having W'ritten a book w'hich w as thought notliing of, because it shewed 62 MILLTN’s travels in FRANCE, that profound learning which but few could understand, composed that extravagant and witty satire against the age in which he lived, which had so astonishing a run, and which will ever be held in the highest estimation. Secondly. Great Statesmen ; the inscriptions in general con- taining commendations. Thirdly. Mistresses and female friends of Kings. I shall only give the following inscription : Diane de Poitiers, was married to the senechal of Nor- mandy, and when a widow, became the mistress of Henry the Second, who gave her the title of duchess of Valentinois. When she first came to the court, she was lively and engaging; but after she attained the king’s favour, she became haughty and in- terested, and the object of hatred to all France. She had by the king Diana, who by her first marriage was duchess de Castres, and by the second marechalle de Montmorency. Fourthly. i\bove the windows was a suite of portraits of the Kings of France ; they w^re all removed during the revo- lution. The saloon on the ground-floor is entirely covered with paint- ings ; those arranged above, represent a number of the most cele- brated royal houses, or those belonging to princes, and some monuments of Paris ; Chambord, Saint Cyr, The Observatory, Saint Cloud, The Luxembourg, Bernis, Les Invalides, Saint Germain en Laye, Vincennes, Gaillon, Aiiet, Villers Cotterets, Sceaux, Versailles, The Water-works of Versailles, La Beaume, Ruelle. It seemed that Bussy wished to recal to his memory thosq. scenes where he had been loaded with the favours of fortune and love. The lower range presented a suite of emblems, with the de- vices similar to those we see in the Recneils de Menetrier, and other works of the same kind. In the embrasures of two windows the devices and emblems have relation to the same inconstant beauty of whom we have already made mention. First. A Siren ; “ Allicit ut 'perdatT “ Kll attire pour perdrer Second. A Swallow with the head of a woman, crossing the sea ; Fugit hieines.” Pile fuit le mauvais terns.'* Third. The Face of a woman in a crescent; Haec ut ilia.” U'line comme V autre.” These three faces have the features of the marchioness de Montglat. Fourth. A Rainbow ; " Minus Iris quam mea, Moins Iris que la mienne.” CONQUEROR OF A WOLF. 63 We observed in the dining-room a large picture of Sebastian de Rabutin,” with this incription, Sebastian de Rabutin, lord of Savigny, illegitimate son of Hugo de Rabutin, knight of Malta, and comiifindant of Pontaube! t, wlio was usher of the chamber to king Henry the Second, and w ho kiiled a fierce wolf that had terrified all the country; this exploit so pleased the king, that he had the portrait of Sebastian at Fontainbleau.”* The con- queror of the wolf is represented in the costume of the time, holding a sword and dagger, and carrying a small carbine ; he wears stockings, but no shoes, probably from the forgetfulness of the painter. Near this is a portrait of ‘^Francis de Habutin, younger brother of Sebastian by the same father : he was geU’- d’arme of the company of Nevers.” There is also in this room a front view of the mansion with the court ; another of the garden side ; with some other views, and a picture w hich represents the favourite of Rabutin under a pavillion of cloth of gold, attended by four pages habited in silver cloth. We returned to Seniur very fatigued, but extremely pleased with our excursion, which furnished an agreeable subject of con- versation in the society of the amiable family, W'ho had received us so hospitably. CHAP. VHl. CHATEAU DE BIERRE INDIAN PI CTU R ES— MONTH A R D — BUFFON- — HIS GARDENS STUDY, SCC. DIJON — IMPLE- MENTS AND UTENSILS OF THE MIDDLE AGE — SCEPTER PURSE OF THE DUKES OF BURGUNDY — KNIVES AND FORKS OF THE GRAND CARVER — STUDY OF M. DES VOCES LEGOUX D. GOSLAN HIS BENEVOLENCE GARDEN — ANTIQUE MONUMENTS, &.C. T A HE 14th of April we set off early in the morning. We wished to see the Chateau de Bierre, the celebrated mansion on wliich M. de Montigny, treasurer ot the estates of Burguiulv, had expended two millions. It belongs at present to M. de Sin- clair, an ofiicer of the Swedish navy. Madame de Sinclair re- ceived ru in a very obliging manner. We went all over the park. vet in his Cosniograpliy, says tliat he performed tliis act in la lO 6'4 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN TRANCE. Several ornamental buildings which were formerly there have been destroyed, because it w^as too expensive to keep them in repair. \\ e saw in the mansion some pictures, one of which is j said to be a Corregio, and several landscapes of thecelebrated Ges- i ner, which M. de Montigny Iiad brought back with him from Switzerland. We admired above all a collection of an hundred and twenty Indian paintings, of different sizes, wdiich represented costumes and curious portraits. These paintings had been sent to M. de Montigny by his brother, who had spent most part of his life in India. The chapel contains a monument which M. de jMontigny had raised to enclose the heart of his father. Filial piety has not spared any thing that could express his affectionate remembrance of his parent. The tomb is iinely executed in white marble, but it is not well designed. On our return to Semur we found our carriage ready, and im- mediately departed. We took the road to Monbard, and soon perceived on an eminence the Chateau de Montfort, w'hich we had been advised to visit. We stopped our chaise, and climbed the hill on which it is situated. No other habitation can give so complete an idea of the residence of, a knight-errant. Before you get inside, you go into a first court through a gate ; on the side of the great gate is the postern with the \yicket ; and there is to be seen the place of the portcullis, which formerly defend- ed the entrance, and a large ancient machine to shower stones, boiling water, burning rosin, and melted lead, on the heads of those who would enter by force. The towers which flanked the castle are furnished with loop-holes, fn the tower to the right is the chamber of the commandant, wdio from thence could see all that passed, and give orders. We came next to the chambers, which served to lodge the garrison, and then to the hall, the walls of wliich are covered with defaced escutcheons. The up- per stories have a number of small chambers to lodge the w'ar- I’iors. The roof is terraced, has battlements, and turrets, and commands a view of the w hole country. This ancient habitation was occupied during the civil w’ars by the Palatine troops. The chapel is supported by large pillars ornamented with Gothic capitals. A w^ell more than eighty feet deep, furnishes water to the building. We quitted this old castle, and continued our road to Mont- bard, where we arrived about four oTlock. We w ere eager to see this place, as it is celebrated for having been the residence of the immortal Buffon. Montbard takes its name, according to some authors, from .Moris Bardus. This origin would be w orthy of a place wliich had given birth to the Byid of Nature, but it this not at all cers HOUSE OF COUNT DE BUTFON. 65 tain ; for others derive it from Mons Barri. This place has had - since the year 880, several rich and puissant lords. The mother of St. Bernard was the daughter of one of these lords. At length the demesne came into the possession of the family of Leclerk ; and George Louis Leclerk, Count de Buffon, spent most of his life here, which gave a celebrity to Montbaid which it will never lose, and which rendered it worthy the observation of all those who respect the memory of that great man. While our dinner was preparing, we went to see the habitation which had witnessed the glorious and useful labours of fifty years. We were Introduced by honest Lapierre, who had been gardener to the Count de Buffon during forty-three years, and still takes care of this place for the widow of his unfortunate son, who perished on the revolutionary scaffold the 8th ofThermidor, pro- nouncing only in a calm and dignified tone, Citizens, my name is Buffon.” The house seems the large habitation of a tradesman, rather than the residence of a man of rank. It is in the High-street, and the court is behind. You ascend a staircase to go into the garden, which is raised on the ruins of the ancient mansion, of which the walls make the terraces. On the top there still re- mains an octagon tower ; where Buffon made his observations ^ on the reverberation of the air. The elevation of this tower is an hundred and forty feet above the level of the little river Braine, which crosses the town. This singular and picturesque garden is well worthy of the notice of the curious. It is not so well taken care of as in the time of its illustrious proprietor; but the numerous foreign trees which he had collected, form several agreeable arbours. The kitchen- garden is to the south-west, ou seven different terraces. The worthy Lapierre shew^ed us all those places in which Ins master most delighted, and above all the room in w hich he la- boured during the heats of the summer. It is in a pavilion, which is called the Tower of St. Louis. Herault de Sechelles has described this modest and humble study. The entrance is by green folding doors ; the interior has the appearance of a chapel, on account of the elevation of the roof. Tlie w alls are painted green. Lapierre made us, above all, take notice of ano- ther closet : it w as a small square building, situated on the side of a terrace. Buffon used to reside there a great part of tlie year, because the other place was too cold. From this pavilion the prospect extends to a plain separated by the river Braine, and bordered by hills, which make a beaiUifui scenery. It w-as there that Buffon composed most of bis works. He used to rise w ith the sun, make last the shutters and the doors, and work for two hours by tlie light of wax-candles. Prince Henrv, who MILLIN.] I f56 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. visited this humble study, called it the Cradle of Natural His^ tory. J. J. Rousseau before he entered, used to fall on his knees and kiss the threshold. In the time of Buffon this study was ornamented with drawings of birds and beasts. What plea- sure we should have had now to have contemplated those repre- ^ sentations ; to have seen the old leather chair; the table of t black birch ; the large W'alnut-tree secretary which decorated this apartment ; the old elbow chair in which BufFon used to sit with the engraving of I^ewton before him ! But the brigands of the revolution envied this luxury to men of letters ; they have pil- laged this sanctuary of the Muses ; the simplicity of which ought to have been its protection against their sacrilegious rapacity. There are no longer any vestiges of that furniture, which, not-? withstanding its age, would be worth its weight in gold. We could not be prevailed on to leave this cabinet ; we ima- gined we saw Buffon in bis grey silk night-cap, and in his red night-gown with white stripes ; we thought that we heard him intermix with the familiar expressions, C’est 9a, tout ga, pardieu those profound and striking remarks which manifested his genius. We, however, quitted these gardens, to see the rest of the town, that we might proceed on our journey early the next morning. In descending, we passed before the column that M. de Buffon, the son, raised to the memory of his father. They have permitted the monument to remain, but have effaced the' inscription which consecrated filial affection, as if the senti- ments of nature had been an offence to liberty. The following was the inscription : Excelsa? Turri, himiilis columna Parenti suo Filins Buffon. 1785." To the high tower, the humble column. Raised by Buffon, junior, to his Father, 1785." Honest Lapierre, considering his instructions were to go the extent of our desires to he gratified, did not omit any thing ; he shewed us the house of Daubenton, the assiduous companion of the labours of Buffon, and took us up the same staircase which he ascended every morning at five o’clock, to go to, the study that we had just visited. We went to the church situated on very high ground; we saw not any of the monuments consecrated to the memory of Buffon ; but in spite of the revolutionary rage which destroyed them, his name is unperishable. The humble tomb which was raised to, the memory of his interesting wife. Mademoiselle de Saint Blin, is also no more to be seen. We arrived at the church by a flight pf steps, but there is a way for carriages. Near it is a little esplanade, and an alley bordered with trees. It was here that 5 TOWN OF MONTBARD* 67 BiifFoii, after having assisted at high mass, which he regularly attended, walked in a coat richly covered with lace, escorted by his son, accompanied by Father Ignatius> and surrounded by peasants. We should have liked much to see the forges, from which the greater part of the revenues of Bulfon were derived ; but we must have gone a league beyond the town. The sheepfold in which the illustrious Daubenton made his experiments for the improvement of wool, would have also deserved our attention ; but there are HO longer any animals kept there. We next went over the little town of Montbard, which the Braine divides into two parts. The day had nearly closed, when we returned to our inn, where a new enjoyment awaited us. We had refused to lodge at the post-house, because it was too far from the town, and w'e vveie put down at the sign of the Crown, which hotel is kept by M. Gautier, an old cook of Buffon. 1 believe that if he had had less talents, w^e should have found an excellent kitchen ; it was however very good. Madame Gautier, who had lived from her youth in the house of the great man, with her husband, w'as charmed to a degree of enthusiasm^ when she saw me affected. She remained wftli us during our repast, waited on us with the greatest attention, related to us several particulars relative to Buffon, to his family, and the per- sons who visited Montbard, and told us the names of all the men of letters she remembered. As she learned that w^e were going to Dauphlne, she gave us a letter for M. de Faujas. We were desirous to see Mademoiselle Biesseau, the little 'paysamiCy w hour Buffon had made his housekeeper. She had studied his dis- position for tw^enty years, and obtained over him such an ascend- ancy, that every one who wfshed to please Bnft'on was first obliged to be well with bis housekeeper. Madame JSTecker showed a great regard for M ademoiselle Biesseau, and wrote to her a great many letters. Unfortunately she was not in the town. I recollected to have heard her spoken of in my youth, when she used to lead her master into the botanic garden, and 1 should have been glad to see her again. We could not learn what was become of Father Ignatius, who thought that he could make Buffon confess, and who sometimes waited on him at table. The next morning at break of day, w’e took leave of that ex- cellent woman Madame Gautier, to set out for Dijon. We were driven by the son of the post-master, and I pray Heaven, gen- tle reader, that you may never in your travels have such a guide ; w'as six hours completing his two posts and a half, and it was near eleven o’clock when we arrived at Villeucuve les Converts. I 2 68 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. It is true that the way is as tedious as it is fatiguing ; it is full of u^s and downs, and the helds are overspread with stones, the vineyards widely scattered, and frequently are found enormous parts of rocks which seem to have torn the bosom of the earth. It is between Chanceaux, a village, the second post, and Saint Seine, tliat the source of the Seine is found in a place called Evergeraux. At a little distance from Chanceaux, it is only a small rivulet which we passed over, on a small stone bridge. From Chanceaux we went to Saint Seigne, commonly called Saint Seine. This large town is situated in a deep valley, the descent to which is very sudden, and where the skill of the work- men ^vho made the road, has constructed a number of turning paths, like a winding staircase. The church which belonged to a rich and celebrated abbey, js all that is remarkable. They were occupied in pulling down the *uncient church of the Benedictines, even to the foundation. Two large paintings in fresco yet cover* the wall behind the choir of the abbey of Saint Seine. They are divided into a great number of small compartments, containing the whole history of St. Seigne. Each compartment has a part of it, and frequently there are inscriptions in Gothic characters on the scrolls ; part of the w riting and some of the painted figures are effaced. At the side of the choir are the remains of a tomb, that of Guillaume de P icnne, who was created abbot of Saint Seine, in 1375. At the right of the entrance to the other church, there is a fountain ornamented w ith a plate of cast iron, and on which is represented in bas-relief, the Samaritan woman conversing with Jesus Christ. The road which w'e had to ascend on leaving St. Seine, is very steep and bad. In this part of the country they cover the roofs of the houses with small slabs of calcareous stone, wdiich are readily found in the fields. From its being proper for this purpose, it is nnmed pierre tegulaire, or as the people of the country call it, lame. They have only to look for it in the fields, but they w'ould have to send for tiles from a considerable distance. Their manner of roofing houses requires that the w’alls should be very solid, as well as the carpenter’s w'ork, to support the weight. If the walls were not solid, at the end of two or three months they would begin to crack and bend ; but a good roof constructed in this way, will last about six-and-thirty years. The shelving of the mountain near the great road, will not admit the use of the plough ; the counlry people are obliged to dig the ground. We saw on this side a great many little spots where the cultivators were employed in this work. ARRIVAL AT DIJON* fj9 The little lames of stone with which they cover the roofs are also employed to make the walls which separate the inclosures, in the most rustic fashion and without cement. They content themselves with placing them one on the other, and they take* care that the highest shall be of the largest size, the small ones being placed in the middle. The high road has a wail of this kind, and there is also in the fields walls like them, which se- parate the lands of the ditferent owners. Before we arrived at Val Suzon, we had to descend a very long and steep declivity, on the one side large rocks, and on the other precipices, beyond which another mountain is seen almost entirely covered with rocks. The village of Val Suzon is formed of two clusters of houses situated in the bottom of the same valley, at a little distance one from another upon the borders of the Suzon, a small river that in the summer months is nearly dry, but which has a stream sufficient to turn some mills. It abounds / with trout ; the largest do not weigh more than half a pound, but are excellent. They are much estsemed at Val Suzon and are greatly in request at Dijon at the best tables. On leaving Val Suzon we had to ascend the space of a league, but the road is good and kept well repaired : the side of the mountain is bordered with immense oaks, between which pines rear their heads. The appearance of this place is truly pic- turesque, and affords the traveller a rich recom pence for his fa- tigue. While contemplating with pleasure so magnihcent a scenery, we came to a less mountainous place; and, having passed Talant, a castle which the ancient dukes of Burgundy made their residence, soon after came in sight of Dijon, where we intended to remain a few days. After our arrival at Dijon my first care at w'aking the next morning, w^as to visit Mr. Durande, Secretary to the Academy, and son of the physician of that name. I knew him in my youth. 1 had pursued the same course of botany wdtli him under the celebrated Desfontaines. 1 was very desirous to see him. 1 was anxious also to embrace my friend M. Riouffe, prefect of the department, whose conversation is full of intelligence, and whose character is so amiable. They were neither of them at home, and a natural inclination directed my steps to the museum. I desired above all to see the respectable director, M. Desvoges, whom I knew' by reputation, and from some letters which he had written to me. The museum is in one of the wings of the. National Palace, a sumptuous edifice, formerly called the palace of the dukes of Burgundy, and afterwards the King’s Liodge. I’he states of Burgundy there held their assemblies, and voted each year a sum towards its embellishment. There remains no more of 70 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN' FRAl^CE the ancient palace of the dukes than a few chambers, and ah old square lower, which was completed under the direction of Jean sans Peur : he had raised its height considerably at the time of his disputes with the Orleanois, to be able to see the plain country, and to prevent his being* surprised. They show at the key stone of the vault the trowel, which that prince had chosen for his device, since the duke of Orleans, who caused him to be assassinated, had taken a knotty stick for his. In front of the palace is the Place Royale. It is a range of arches in a semi-circle. In the middle was the equestrian statue of Louis XIV. by Le Hongre. It has been demolished. M. Desvoges, director of the museum, is a man altogether worthy of his situation, both oh account of his talents, and the ser- vices which he has done the arts. Dijon owes to him the foiindu’ lion of the museum, the establishment of which he first proposed to the states of Burgundy, wiio approved his plan. The room for study is large and well calculated for the pupils to draw from engravings, busts, and models. The students were to the number of one hundred and fifty : formerly they received prizes, and such of them as obtained that honour were sent to Rome. The bust of M. Desvoges is placed at the extremity of the study. There is inscribed on the pedestal, Monument of gratitude and friendship, by the students of the school of Di- jon, the artists and amateurs, to their master, their father, and friend.” The museum is composed of several rooms full of pictures, marble statues, and different curiosities. These rooms are open to the public every Sunday from twelve o’clock until two in winter, and from two until four in summer. Among the pic- tures we noticed the Death of St. Francis of Assise, by Au- gustin Carracci, a St. Jerome of Doniinichlno, a landscape of Gasper Poussin, several smaller pictures of the Flemish School, and several copies after the Italian. The most remarkable of them is that of Raphael’s School of Athens, executed at Rome under the direction of Poussin. The second room of pictures contains several implements of the middle age which belonged to the ancient dukes of Burgundy, such as ivory hoses from the toilette of a duchess, a purse, a scepter, a poiguard, some knives and forks of their grand carvers, the cap auvi the cross of St. Renobert, and a ring of one of the Abbots of Citeaux. A particular cabinet of M. Desvoges contains a collection of casts in plaster of Paris from the mont celebrated s'-ihjects of sculpture: the intent of these plasters is for study, and M. Des- voges allows the use of them to his pupils. 'Fhe room which contains engravings is veiy light, and fur- nished with desks facing the windows, and drawers which hold KITCHEN OF THE PRINCE OF CONDE. 71 tlic port-folios. Several engravings adorn the walls. The iiuni- ber of the collection is forty thousand ; there are some priiUs of Mark Antony, those of Poussin are not numerous. Before we quitted the Palais Nationa/y we visited the iiite- rior of the square tower which is in the middle; it was formerly the kitchen of the prince of Conde. It is curious I'or the sin- gular manner of its construction, the fire-places for roasting being all round the place, and the stoves in the middle, with a great funnel to let out the smoke, it is not however very convenient for the cooks, wdio are always between two fires. This kitchen, where were })repared the sumptuous repasts wliieli a iiiagp.ificent prince gave to his guests, at present serves for the preparation of soLipe a la Kumford. We next w'ent to see the botanic garden, wliich the benevolence of M. Legouz de Gerlan, an estimable and enlightened man, had given to the academy, burthened only ' w ith the expence of making botanical experiments. Since that lime it has been at the disposal of the central school ; at present it might be restored to the academy, but having lost the endowment, it has no longer the necessary funds to sup- port it. I ]M. Legouz died in the year 1774, and was buried in tlie church of St. Magdalen. V\ hen this church was demolished in the course of the revolution, the bones of most of the persons buried there were carried to the adjoining cemetery : the mem- bers of the ancient academy requested that those of M. Legouz de Gerlan, should be removed to the botanic garden, of which he was the founder. This removal took place with a solemnitv suitable to the occasion on a Sunday evening. A concq.urse of people, the members of Le academy, and a military detachment, assisted and accompanied the procession. Three of the inem- beis delivered a discourse on the subject of the soIemnit\. Under the trees at the extremity of the great botanic garden, stands a black sarcophagus, raised on a base, w hich contains the remains of M. Legouz de Gerlan. In a room on the ground door of the house which looks to the garden we read on a black marble in characters of gold, the following inscription. The academy of Dijon to the kind begouz, founder of the garden, who died in 1774.” In front of this inscription, at the other end of the room, the bust of JNL I.egouz is placed on a pedestal on which w'e read Centre Ics luaux qui mcnuccnt tn vie, I'oi qyi yiens c!u;rc!n'r ties i^ecours, X’^ois, sous CCS traits, le bienfaisaiit cenie Qui veiUe uu saluL detes jours. MILLIN'S TEAVELS IN IRANCE. 79 in destroying one of the ancient towers of Dijon there were found fragments of tombs, of statues, and inscriptions. M. Degouz bought of the workmen these monuments which were near being dispersed, and had them set in the w-all of a small garden, that served as an entrance to the buildings of the botanic gardens. The most interesting monument is one which represents a waggon drawn by mules and loaded with corn, as if meant to be emptied into barges. There only remains a fragment upon which is written Navta ArajiciiSf’ “ Mariner of the Saonef the part which doubtless contained the vessel, and the - name of this corn-merchant is lost. This town was in the time J of Caesar the magazine of Gaul, and he had his corn from thence during the w'ar with the Helvetians. CHAP. IX. BAS-RELIEF AND INSCRIPTIONS IN THE HOUSE OF M. RICHARD DE VESVROTTES SUPPOSED TRIUMPHAL MONUMENT OF BELLOVESUS RE-DISCOVERY OF THE HIPTIC OF DIJON PICTURES OF M. WOLFIUS LIBRARY OF M. MARET— M. DURANDe’s CABINET OF NATURAL HISTORY THE CHARTREUX ARQUEBUSE PARK. , Messrs. DURAND and Leschevin conducted us to the house of M. Richard de Vevrottes, son of M. Richard de Rutfey, formerly president of the Court of Exchequer for the province of Burgundy. The garden of this house may be con- sidered as a small giove dedicated to the Lapidary Muses, The pr.ncipal wall, under the shade of majestic chesnut- trees, presents to the view of the antiquary forty-two monuments, more or less preserved, which were found in the city of Dijon. In the middle there is a black marble tablet with the following in- scription ill letters of gold: HiEC VETERUM MONUMENTORUM FRAGMENTA E RUDE- RIBUS PRlMAiVAi URBIS DiVlONENSlS JUNTA TEMPLUM DiVI StEPHANI FELICITER ERUTA AD PUBLICAM UTl- ANCIENT MONl/MENTS AND INSCRIPTIONS. 73 LITATEM ET IIORTORUM ORNAMENTUM ^GIDTUS GeR- MANUs RICHARD DE RUFFEY in suprema Ratio- NUM BuRGUNDIiE CuRTA Pr®SES EMERITUS SER- VANDA cuRAviT Anno M.DCC LXXXI.' Only one of the* monuments has been published : it is the pretended Hunter of M. Legouz de Gerlan, who had it en- graved from a drawing by M . Tillot, pi. xxi. but the collection of MSS. which the* latter left to the Academy proves how' inac- curate he was in his researches. This Hunter is evidently a Diana succimtay or Diana with her tunic tucked up. I'he characters that were formerly on the border of the stone, are now entirely effaced, and we cannot rely on the faithfulness of the copy given by M . Legouz. The most curious of thesd monuments is a bas-relief placed under the inscription of M. de Ruffey: It represents a sacrifice: on the left is the sacrificer with a veil; a tibicen appears to be playing on the double flute : on the right the pbpa has the secespita in his girdle : and near him stands the ox that is to be killed. In the' midst* of the three figures "there is a small altar with in- cense burning on it. Several of the monuments are accompanied with inscriptions of which I copied the following : SAlilNIANVS MARCl ANI .... SABIN VS V. s. In a niche is a woman in the Gallic costume ; holding a basket of fruits in one hand : above is the following line, D. M. MARTILL^ BLANDT. FIL. Around another figure with a veil we read, D. M. VEBRONIS BRIG 1 FI. Round two figures in a niche, MASCvLVS ET SABINA VXOR. In another niche we saw' the figures of a man and woman with their right hands joined ; the man holds a purse and goblet : the woman a scroll. The inscription is, VS. SASSONIS FIL. ET SABINA VXOR. MILLIN.] K 74 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. They have built into this wall several fragments of a beaiUifui frieze with the attributes of Bacchus : several other fragments represent figures in niches, the upper part of which are in the form of a sL-ell. M. Antoine has given in the Journal des Bdtimens et det Arts, No. 1 10 and 112, some of these frag- ments separately in one plate ; and in another he has formed by their union a kind of arched portico : because he thinks that these stones formed part of a triumphal monument erected to perpetuate the memory of the victories of Bellovesus in Etruria : but this opinion seems to be wholly inadmissible, as in the time of Bellovesus there was no artist in Gaul capable of executing or even of conceiving the idea of such a monument* M. Richard de Vesvrottes then shewed us the collection of curiosities and antiques formed by his father in a room adjoining his library. 1 here immediately recognised the Oiptic of Dijon,, which is engraved in Montfaucon’s (Antlqu. expliq. t. 3. p. 240). It had formerly belonged to M. de Lamare, then to M. du Tilliot, from whose collection it was transferred to the cabinet of M. Richard de p.ufi'ey. It was supposed to be lost. Since iny visit to Dijon it has been deposited in the Museum This collection contains likewise several seals ; some small figures, few of which are ancient; wooden combs, and one of lead, that were used in the churches, but without any in- scription : and a garment of Bebe, the dwarf of the king of Poland. M. Wolfius, an advocate in the city, possesses a considerable collection of pictures, among which we particularly noticed a curious ancient View of Paris, which gives us an idea of that city previous to the building of the pavilion of the Infanta, and whilst the Pont-neuf was still encumbered with shops. M. Maret has a valuable library selected with much taste: containing a series of the works wliich have issued froip the most celebrated modern presses. He likewise possesses several early specimens of the art of printing. M. Durandes likewise possesses a good library, containing a great number of the best works on physics and medicine; to the study of which be has particularly devoted himself. He has a rich cabinet of minerals, and a splendid collection of shelly and madrepores. Having returned to the town-house we saw^ in th§ court 15 fragments of the antiquities which were found in digging under the wails of the Holy Chapel. These fragments are distinguished by a very good taste : and do not seem to have been executed - posterior to the tiroes of the Antonines. There are eight frag- ments of a frieze, w ith very pleasing ornaments, and four frag- ments of cornices. It is tp be regretted that the adipinistrators tHARTREUX AND ArQUEBUSK OF DIJON. 7o did not continue the research. They likewise found a part of a beautiful sarcophagus, with Genius liolding one side of the tilulus : — and two mutilated figures, which seem to have re- presented persons of rank, one of them is holding a roll, and the other a small box, such as we find in other monuments of this country; The fifteenth is the most curious ; it seems to be the inside of a house, in which five persons are employed in domestic functions ; behind those in the upper part, are the goblets, which are obseiTed in many of the Gallic and Roman monuments of this country. Having finished our researches at Dijon, we prepared for bur departure. The Chartreux would formerly have presented some objects for observation; for several of the dukes of Burgundy Were buried in that convent : in particular, the tombs of Philip the Bold, the founder of the monastery, and of John the Fear- less, and his duchess, used to attract the attention of strangers. These magnificent monuments are now destroyed, and nothing remains but a few scattered fragments and figures: the plough- share has passed over a great part of the monastery which con- tained them ! We took a walk to the Arqiiehuse. This is a small house; with a pleasant garden planted in the English manner : formerly it was the place of exercise for the Cross-bow Company ; at present it has been converted into a very agreeable rural house of entertainment. The ground-floor forms a covered gallery, where the company may retire in case of rain. Many fine shrubs and 'flowers are cultivated here : and at tlie extremity of the garden stands a tree whose trunk is at least seven feet in diameter. The house and garden were constructed and laid out at the expence of M. de Montigny, who placed in the gallery the busts of Jehanniu Piron, Bouhier, la Monnoie, Buffon, and other celebrated Burgundians : but during the frenzy of the re- volution they were broken to pieces, and nothing remains but the names wTitten on the wall. The Dijonese have several other public walks, especially the i'amparts which encircle the city, and tlie course which leads to the park. The park is at the distance of a quarter of a league from the city. It formerly belonged to the prince of Conde : the city of Dijon purchased it after the revolution, and made it a public promenade : it is laid out in regular straight walks from plans by Le ^Jostre; the river Oiiche fluws at one end of itj and fonni the boundary. K 76 MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. CHAP. X, DEPARTURE FROM DIJON — COTE d’oR; — VINEYARDS— CHAMBERTIN BROCHON— CLOS VOUGEOT VOSNES ROMANE — SAINT-GEORGE — LA TACHE — ABBEY OF CI- TEAUX — NUITS — BEAUNE; THE LIBRARY THE HOS- PITAL ANECDOTE OP PIRON, THE POET — GOLD MEDALS. E left Dijon by the way through the suburb of the Ouche f at a little distance from the city we saw one of the sluices of the canal, which is to reach from Dijon to Saint Jean de Losne; hut it is not yet finished, five sluices being still wanting. After having proceeded half a league, we saw rising on the right to- wards the south-west, the celebrated hill, over which Bacchus has spread a verdant and magnificent carpet. This hill well de- serves the name of Cote fi’Or, or Gold Coast, which has been given it on account of the excellence of its wines, and the riches they produce. We continued to enjoy this smiling view-; and every point that presented itself, was a spot more or less cele- brated for the excellence of its wine. After having passed Clie-r none and Marcenay, the wines of which are in high estimation, and before we arrived at Baraques, the first stage, we saw the vineyards of Cham^bertin, of w hich the English have so high an opinion. Soon after we perceived the vineyards of Morey and Chambolle. The name of Clos Vougeot, \vritten in large cha- racters, attracted our attention ; this vine-land derives its name from the Vouge, w'hich flows by at a little distance from it, over ^ which we crossed by a small bridge ; it formerly belonged to the '} monks of the Abbey of Citeaux ; its extent is about 250 acres. It has been purchased by M. M. Tourton and Ravel, two emi- nent merchanls, who pay great attention to its culture and im- provement. As several parts of the enclosure, the produce of which is of an inferior quality, have been replanted with large vines, a report has been spread that the present proprietors w'ere more attentive to quantity than quality ; but this calumny is wholly unfounded : it is true that the quantity of ground allotted to the culture of the vines is continually increasing. Formerly’ VINEYARDS OF VOSGES AND NUITS. 77 it was not allowed to appropriate to this species of husbandry any lands, except such as were proper for it ; but now, when the regulations relative to this point are no longer in force, they frequently plant vines in low grounds, even such as are subject to have water lying upon them, and possess none of the proper- ties required for a vineyard. Those VA ho buy the produce of such vineyards, may believe, or give out, that the w ines of Burgundy have degenerated ; but this is certainly not the case with respect to the good vineyards, and more particularly that of V ougeot, which is cultivated with more care than ever ; the wine made there is sold in bottles, the price of w'hich is six francs each. The proprietors have always 500,000 bottles in store. Some of the wine is twelve years old ; but it will not keep beyond that age^ Tormerly we should have made an excursion from the direct road for the purpose of visiting the celebrated Abbey of Citeaux, the abbot of which \vas head of the whole Cistertian Order, and as such exempt from ail ecclesiastical jurisdiction, except that of the pope himself. It contained the tombs of all the dukes of Burgundy of the first race ; but the monuments and the church itself have been scattered by the storm of the revolution. The vineyard of Vougeot is that which enjoys the most exten- sive celebrity ; but at a little distance from it, on the road to Nuits, lies that of Vosges, belonging to M. Besire^ w hich well deserves an equal degree of l epulation. These names recal to mind the disputes wliich recur at every banquet amongst the Burgundians, relative to the superioi ity of the produce of the several vineyards : these debates frequently become very animated, and generally end in very consider- able wagers. The judges appointed by tlie parties in such cases, never decide without a previous examination of the articles which gave rise to the process. We soon arrived at the second stage, Nuits, a place celebrated on account of its vineyards, and the great trade carried on there with the gifts of Bacchus. The wines of the neighbourhood rose into great repute after the illness of Tonis XIV. in 1680. That monarch having been obliged to undergo an operation for the fistula, his physicians ordered him to drink old w'ine of Nuits, as a restorative. 'I’he price of the article, which till then had been very moderate, was considerably increased, and large quantities are now exported. Nuits is a small tc»w'n, situated at the foot of a hill called Cote ]\uito?ie, on the bank of the Vieuzin ; planted with the excellent vines which have raised the reputation of the place, where every thing has an air of comiort and com- petence. The opposite side of tliisrich tract of vine-land is covered v\ilh 7^"^ MILLTNS TRAVELS IN FRANCIS. forests, tlie w'^iod of which is employed in smelting tlie ofe of the iron mines, or sent :i5 a supply of fuel to the capital. The Cote d’Or formerf}' produced a considerable number of cliesnuts, but it is a remarkable facl! this tree will not now thrive there. This tra(it of country ends Yosncs; but the vineyards, as far as Beaune continue to have the r^ps^tation of producing excellent wine. As we did not intend to pursue the route to Chalons, we stop- ped in the suburbs of Beaune, and while dinner was preparing, took a walk into the’ town. The new gate by which we entered, is in a good style of architecture. We were desirous of seeing th@ public library, but had some difficulty in tinding the librarian ; at last however we met with him at a cotfee-house : and lie quitted his game of domino with the greatest complaisance ; but we could perceive that some of his friends, displeased that stran- gers should interrupt him in so serious an occupation, followed him at a distance. The library is a handsome square hall, but does not contain any very important w orks. The town, which is of an oval form, with handsome houses and w'ide streets, stands on a calcareous ground, about three leagues from the Saoiie ; and its situation between Chalens, Dijon, and Autun, is well suited for inland trade. Of the castle nothing but ruins remain. The church of St. Peter is tlie handsoiucst ; but the most remarkable edifice is the magnificent hospital, founded in 1443, by Nicholas Rolliii, chancellor to Philip, duke of Burgundy, of whom Louis XL of France used to say. It is but an act of justice in him, who has ir^ade so many poor, to build a hospital to lodge them in.” The court of this house presents some remains of the style of architecture called Gothic, w'hichbave a very picturesque effect. It does honor to the inhabitants of Beaune, that this asylum of sickness and mis- fortune is kept in a very good state of repair, and that they pride themselves upon it as an institution of great importance. The animosity of the Athenians against the Thebans, w as not greater than that of the inhabitants of Dijon against those of Beaune. The Dijonese will have it, that the very air of the country has a slupifying effect ; and they vie with each other in ascribing the most ridiculous bulls and simplicities to the good folks of Beaune. The quarrel of Piron, the poet, wuth them, has not a little contributed to strengthen this opinion. Ge7nis irritabile valum ! The knights of the cross-bevy of Beaune, had gained the prize in 171<3; Piron, who then resided in Dijon, his native city, held them up to ridicule in a burlesqee ode. Fifteen months after, the Beaunese gave back the jirize. Pi- ron’s friends begged him not to go to Beaune ; but he paid no regard to their advice, and his temerity had like to have cost Ima 79 piron’s quarrels with the beaunese. oar, as he informs us himself in his Voyage rie Brninie. Ills ntagoiiists began the attack with insults and threats. Piion ept up a running lire of bon-inots, puns, and epigrams. His I lends endeavoured to carry him oft the field of battle : but le resisted, exclaiming Allcz; je ne crains p-as leur inapuissanl courroux ; Et quaud je seroix seul,, je Ics baterois tous ! Having met with an ass in one of the streets, he affixed to he long ear' of the beast the green cockade of the Beatinese iowmen, repeating aloud their motto, Marche an but. This roused their fury against him to the highest pitch. On the ollowingday, he had the imprudence to go to the play-house, mid eat himself in the pit ; ail the young men immediately ranged heinselves on the stage and overwhelmed him with voUies of >pf)robrions language. At length, however, the actors with much hfticulty were proceeding with the play, when a young Beau- lese, disgusted with the uproar, exclaimed Silence! gentlemen; tis impossible to hear any thing “ ’Tis not however for want )f ears!’’ replied Piron. His enemies now breathing the most leadly vengeance, pursued the poet with sticks and sw^ords through he streets, and he probably would have fallen a victim to their age, if a good-natured citizen had not permitted him to take efuge in his house. Ever after Piron vented his spleen against he Beaunese in a great number of epigrams, and his towns- nen the Hijoneses have not failed to imitate him. All the puns )r play upon words to which the comparisons of a sot with an iss can give rise to, have been employed for this purpose by lipm to satiety, in a manner more or less ingenious. Is there any real foundation for this opinion of the excessive fimplicity of the inhabitants of Beaunese. 1 must own, that ia,ving heard so much of' it, and read the hundreds of naivetes uid blunders told of them, it was difficult to divest myself of )rej^dice ; and during the time we were in the town, there 'oc- "urred nothing calculated entirely to do it away : it seemed to is as if no one gave a proper answer to the questions put to hem. But our stay was too short to enable us to form a cor- ect judginent : and we must not follow the example of a cer- ;ain English traveller, who wrote in his journal, that at Bids dl the women are carrotty and peevish, though he had seen only he hostess of the inn where he put up. But even adipitting that tlie Beaunese in general have little Ait, and a sluggi.sh imagination, the rule is not wiftiout ex- ception ; and they may cite with pride the names of some very so MILLIN’s travels in fRANCE. eminent men to whom their town has given birth — and particu- larly senator Menge, to whom we owe so many discoveries in physic, ehemistry, and geometry. CHAP. XI. CROSS ROAD TO AUTUN — POMARD--VOLNA Y— MEURSAULT QUARRIES OF ST. ROMAIN — CASTLE OFROCHEPOT REFLECTIONS ON THE DESTRUCTION OF ANCIENT MONUMENTS NOLAY CUSSY ROMAN COLUMN AU- VENET; PETRIFACTIONS — VALLEY OF VAUCHI6NON— EPINAC — GLASS-MANUFACTORY. Instead of proceeding by the usual route to Chalons, we now turned off by a cross road to Autun ; and after leaving Beaune, passed by the celebrated vineyards of Pomard, Vol- nay, and Meursault, the white wines of which is in high re- pute, especially on account of their mixing with the red with- out changing their colour, though it be not made of black grapes like the vines of Champagne. Soon after w e saw Saint-Rornain, w hose quarries supply marble for the embellishment of houses and churches throughout Burgundy. Farther on we perceived oh an eminence to the right the picturesque ruins of the ancient castle of Rochepot. The rock on which it was built is perpendicular, and is only accessible on one side : it w'as formerly called Roche Nolay. The castle was erected in the 15 th century, by Alexander of Burgundy, Rene Pot, after whom it was named, strengthened it with ad- ditional fortifications. As we were passing it, the pick-axe and the hammer were working the downfall of this monument of the middle ages. If these vandals reflected how many centuries are required to encrust buildings with the varnish of antiquity, w'hich attracts attention and respect, they would set some bounds to the rage for destroying. The residences of the Paladins, the monuments of the piety of our forefathers, the ancient castles and churches, give a charm of variety to the landscape, are an object of distraction and interesting recollection to the traveller, and form a striking contrast with the edifices built according to the rules ON THE DESTRUCTION OF ANCIENT MONUMENTS. 81 of modern architecture. These jdaces^ hallowed by tradition, recall the remembrance of deeds of tlie days of yore. I well know, that all considerations must give way to public safety and convenience, and that the owner of an ancient castle has a right to pull it down for the purpose of substituting in its place a more commodious modern dwelling ; but in most cases they seem to destroy merely for the sake of destroying, or only for tlie materials ; which in a country so well supplied with stone as Burgundy, will hardly be worth the expence which the de* inolition costs. It is not for the purpose of building on their sites, but solely for the sake of the materials, that the castles of Montfort and Rochepot, which had so picturesque an effect, have been demolished. 1 allow that nothing should be expended for the purpose of repanng the castles and churches which are falling to decay: but surely there is beauty and grandeur even in ruins. A man to whose soul they do not speak, should never view a landscape. The English think differently from us in respect to their ancient abbeys. The dwellings of their ancestors are preserved with religions veneration : they are pleased W'ith the romantic air w'hich gothic edifices give to the landscape : they describe them with care ; and transmit in engravings the remembrance of their various states. Were not the numerous steeples and lofty towers, rising majestically to the skies and directing from afar, the weary traveller to a place of rest, an ornainent to our cities ? Deprived of them, the view becomes flat and monotonous. It is to be w'ished that government would lay some restraint on these devastations ; and then no one should be allowed to pull down an old building wdthout having submitted his w ishes to the prefect of the department, w ho might have power to or- der them to be preserved if he judged it e?ipedient. If some such measure be not adopted, it is to be feared that most of the monuments that have been w itnesses to' the antiquity of the coiu]try, w'ill ere long disappear in France. AYe arrived at Nolay towards the close of day. May heaven preserve every honest traveller from the misfortune to taking up his abode with mine host of the White Horse, whose be- iiaviour is as rude as bis house is dirty and his fare disgusting. We begged of him to let us have in the morning a carriage to take us to the column of Gussy: but be absolutely refused us his chaise which stood iu the shed; and we could not even ob- tain saddles for the horses we had brought w ith us. As w’e had struck into this cursed cross-road on purpose to see the column, wc had no choice left but to give up the object of our excursion, or to proceed to the spot on foot. At four in the morning wo accordingly set out wilh a guide; IMILLIN.] i, ^ ' 8'2 MILLINGS TBAVELS IN TRANCE. find having walked three hours over a stony and fatiguing road^ arrived at the village of Ivri, close to the castle of Corraboeuf. .Near this place is a quarry of calcareous stone, which contains, besides tlie conunon petrifactions, some very large nautili. At the distance of a league is the village of Graininont, where the enor- mous petrified fish, now deposited in the Museum of Natural His- tory at Paris, was found. The environs present a very picturesque view : it is a delightful valley which was near half illumined by the rays of the sun: a flock of sheep collected in the low ground, and another scattered over the acclivity pf the moun- tain, added to the charms of this sublime landscape. At last we perceived the object for which we had undertaken the walk, and the pleasure of seeing this beautiful inonument amply repaid ns for our trouble and fatigue. This column has frequently been described : but the figures which accompany these descriptions are all defective, being mostly copied from the designs published by Montfancon, which are very far from being exact. The figure of it in the “ Voyage pittoresque de la France,” conveys an altogether false idea of it, both With respect to the details and proportions; M. Pasumot had drawn and engraved a view of it with the greatest care. This column stands in the middle of the fields, in a hollow, and surrounded with mountains on every side ; and is visible only at a very small distance, after leaving the village of Gussy. The pedestal is composed of three layers, each of which consists of only one block of stone. The base forms a kind of square, with the angles cut off, and a semicircular incision is cut in each of the principal faces. The cornice over it consists of only one piece. Over the base is placed a kind of octagonal altar, which presents on each of its sides the figure of a god. This altar is formed of two pieces : but the plinth which sup- ports it, and the cornice over it, consist each of only one block of stone. i^bove it rises the shaft of the column. The lowest part of it is ornamented with rhomboidial compartments, in which is a rosette, such as we see in some cielings: the up- per part is decorated vrith scale-shaped sculpture. The shaft consists of four pieces. The top is wanting, *^1 he whole co- lum is composed of only twelve pieces ; and it is evident, that the enormous size of the blocks, each of which forms a complete layer, has prevented it from being dilapidated. It principally, however, owes its preservation to the spirit of the inhabitants. A lord of the village had formed the project of taking it down and rebuilding it on the great road to Lyons : but the villager* having made earnest application against it, the project was dropped. They call this monument their pillar, and have ad- ded It to the name of their village, which they call Cussy-la- Golonne, tOLUMIf OF CUSSY.’ 8.-1 M. Lejeune, mayor of Ciissy, having conducted us lo his house, we saw in the court a large fragment of stone, forming more than the half of a very large disc, which he supposed liud formerly served as a corona to the pillar I have just been desci ib- ing ; and on examining it, we were inclined to concur in opinion with him. On the edge of llie remaining part of this disc, there are six elevations very like the horns which we find in some of the square altars of antiquity. Jn the center rises a small circular jirotuberance ; the surface is plain and rudely worked ; below each horn there is a small excavation resembling a groove or gut- ter; towards the center the thickness is greater than on die edges ; and its diameter is seven feet. It would seem that these horns corresponded with the different faces of tiie base ; on which account their distance is unequal, being from the middle of ojie horn to the middle of the other alternately two feet, and two feet six inches. The edge of the disc is six inches in thickness, and thirteen where the horns are placed; That we might be the better able to examine this fragment, we caused it to be lifted up by some labourers. These good people, pleased with the attention paid by us to a monument, on which they seemed to pride themselves, would not take any pay for their trouble, and with difficulty were induced to accept a trifling drink- money. J3efore we took leave of M. Lejeune, he shewed us three Gallic sepulchral stones, built into the wall of his house. The figure sculptured on one of them holds a goblet of the kind we saw on several bas-reliefs at Dijon. Being told of a curious capital of a column, ornamented with figures, at the farm of Auvenet, from Cussy, we walked about a league thither by way of Ivry. The whole declivity is covered with a prodigious quantity of the fragments of asterites and inc- dusse ; and sometimes whole asterites are found. These petri- factions lie on a base of yellowish marble, which is suscej>tible of a good polish. — M. Guillemardiu, the proprietor of the farm, gave us a hospitable reception, and comlucled us to a Meld, where we found the capital, Used as the cover of a well, having been hollowed in the middle, to fit it for that j>iu,pose. The people of the farm call it on that account, the Lamp; a name derived from a traditionary supposition that the column of Cussy had been a light-house. But would it not have been absurd to erect it in the bottom of a valley ? This capital is of the Corinthian, or composite Order, twenty-one inches in height, and tlie brea'dtli three feet and a half on the upper, and two leet ten inclies on the under part. Each face is oruameuted with a head : one of them represents a beardless Eauu, with hmg ears ; another an old Si- l»»Hus, with a beard; and the third a encircled with ra\^ . L S4 MILLIN’s TRAVELS IN FRANCE. but the fourth is quite defaced. Tiic remainder of each face is covered with the leaves of the acanthus, it is probable that this ' capital belonged to the column of Cussy, and that the stone we bad before seen in the court of the Mayor’s house, served as the corona ; so that the horns were turned upwards. The small elevation in the center of the disc, might in that case he intended for fixing the urn, if, as it is believed, this column was a sepul- chral monument. The eight figures w'hicli adorn the column, stand in niches of very little depth, and with the top alternately arched and pointed. The first figure represents Hercules, with his club, and the skin of the Nemean Lion. The second is that of a captive ; he has a beard, and is dressed in the Gallic sagum : the head is unco- vered, and the hands are hound together. In the third niche stands Minerva with a lielmet on her head ; near her an owl is perched on a stick ; and at her feet the trunk of a tree, with the upper part cut off ; probably the trunk of an olive, which would be a happy symbol of the sweets and security of peace, which had succeeded the horrors and devastations of war. Minerva raises her right hand to her head ; an attitude of reflection well suited to the Goddess of Wisdom. The order of these figures may indicate, that the barbarian chief in the middle, was over- come by the valour and prudence of the general, to whose me- mory the column had been erected. The fourth niche is occupied by Juno ; this Goddess, w ho presided over the nuptial union, has her head covered with the matronal veil : in her left hand she holds the pure spear, that is, a spear without the iron point, the ensign of power : in her right hand is the patera, the symbol of the worship paid to her ; and at her feet we see her favourite bird, the peacock. The mighty sovereign of Olympus, stands next to his august queen, naked, and his mantle lying on his thigh ; he is bearded, and holds the spear in his right'haiid, the manner in which that god in general is represented. On the left of Jupiter we see Ganymede, with a Phrygian bonnet on his head, feeding the eagle of his master with ambro- sia, out of a patera, it may appear extiaordinary to find Jupiter placed betwixt Juiip and Ganymede ; but this is not the sole ex- ample of that curious association, which I have met with on other mouiuiients. The seventh figure is now so much mutilated, that it is diffi- cult to determine wiiat it represented. I conjecture that it was Bacchus, and that the animal at his foot is his favourite panther. A Nymph, holding in her right hand an oar, and in her left urn with water flowing out of it, occupies the eighth niche. i OPINIONS RESPFCTING TWE COLUMN OF CUSSY. S^. When i saw it, however, I could not distinguisli any of these at- tributes which t find in the drawing made of it thirty years ago, by M. Pasumot, in whose well-known accuracy and attention, however, the greatest confidence may be placed. From the state in which 1 saw it, I should have supposed it to be a V'^enus, mistaking for a veil the water flowing out of the urn. But from the copy of M . Pasumot, it may be concluded that it was meant as the representation of the divinity of some navigable river, pro- bably the Saone. There has been various opinions relative to the purpose for xvhich this column w^as erected. Lempereur supposed it to be the tomb of a Gallic prince, lliomassinand Germain look upon it as a triumphal pillar in honour of the victory gained by Julius C^sar, over Helvetians near Arnay. According to Moreau de Mautour, it was erected to the emperor Claudius. Montfauccn thinks that it is a religious monument of some gallic nation, and that it ought to be classed among the ecloginal temples of these people. M. Prunelle, a young gentleman who joins to a profound study of medicine, a very extensive ac- quaintance with several parts of ancient literature, is of opinion that it is a memorial of the victory gained by the troops of Maximian over the Bagaud. It is certain that the column could not have been erected by the Gauls, and that the style of architecture is that which pre- vailed in the reign of Dioclesian” for it was during the period that elapsed between the reigns of Aurehan till after that of Constantine, that the Roman architects over-charged the shafts of columns with ornaments, as is the case wuth respect to that of Cussy. Bessdes some coins of Antoninus Pius have been found under it. That this column was a triumphal monument, is proved by the figure of a captive in chains. Moreau de Mautour maintains drat it is some Gaulish Divinity, who was usually so represented : but he has not adduced sufficient proof in support of his opinion. The captive has not indeed the bonnet with the top bent back, by which the Armenian, Dacian, Parthian, and other captives are distinguished on the columns of Tfcijon and Antoninus, ami the arch of Siptimius : but he is dressed in the sagia/i and braces of the Gauls. The conjecture of M. Prunelle is ingenious, and he supports it with great ability and erudition. He has given a history of the Bagaudae, who were a banditti subsisting in Gaul, by robbery and pillage. They were destroyed under die reign of Maximian, and M. Prunelle is of opinion tliat the aFidiii erected tliis co- lumn on the field oi battle in honour of tlie emperor; and that 86 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. he is allegorically represented under the figure of Hercules, whose name he assumed, as we learn from medals and in- scriptions. I willingly adopt part of this conjecture ; but cannot admit tire whole of it. T^he column was erected for the purpose of pierpetuating the memory of a victory gained here, about the period of the reign of Dioclesian and Maximian: but then it appears probable to me that it was dedicated to the Roman general, who had purchased the victory with his life. The large quantity of human bones with which the plain of Ciissy is covered, prove that it had been the scene of a great battle. The’ captive indicates the nation, or, if we admit the opinion of M. Prunelle, the roving Ijorde of the Bagaudae, which was defeated by the strength and prudence of the general. All the protecting deities of Roman empire, and the river which washes the coun- try of the .ndui, seem^ by their presence, to participate in this signal victory. When the column was entire, it may be presumed from the description of it given above, that an urn stood at top. But the discovery of the urn is not absolutely necessary to prove that tlie column was a funeral monument t the custom of burning the dead body, was confined after the reign of the Antonines to only a small number of individuals ; and the urn may have been thrown down by the effects of time, or carried away by the hand of the spoiler. According to an account which I read in the Archives of the commune of Cussy, the remains of human bo- dies were found round the column, placed in such a manner that the sculls touched its base : these were no doubt the bodies of the principal officers who had fallen in the battle. Having collected all the information we could obtain relative to the column, we left Auvenet ; and being much fatigued with our long walk, were conducted to some distance in a cart drawn by two oxen, the driver of which was continually repeating the graceful names of Mira and Griveau. But we soon quitted this tediously slow equipage and descended by a very steep path into a vale called Vauchignon. This country is extremely beau- tiful and picturesque ; over our heads hung an enormous rock, which was so very slightly attached to the mountain, that it will probably be hurled down by the first storm that falls upon it. Tlie water of a spring called La Cusane or Causanne, rushes w ith such noise out of a grotto called La Tournee, that on ap- proaching within thirty paces of it we heard a sound like the faint rumbling of very distant thunder. Travellers sometimes enter the cavern, but this can only be done by creeping upon hands and feet; several have engraved their names on the rock. The GLASS M ANUFACTOPtY, 87 wliole of tlie vale is bordered with rocks on each side ; and near the grotto there is a cascade, forming a beautiful sheet of water tlie fall of which has hollowed out a bason of from 12' to 15 feet in diameter. The small streamlet pursues its course through the middle of the vale, and turns more than forty mills. Having dined at the village of Nolay, we set out for Autun : but were tempted to go a little out of the direct road to see the glass- manufactory of Epinac, belonging to M. Moser and Co. and situated very near the old castle of Epinac. They make here from 1800 to 2000 glass bottles a day, which find a ready vent in the wine-districts of Burgundy. The oil which is burnt here comes from Saizy, and emits a very strong sulphureous odour. Two fifths of fine are mixed w ith three of coarse sand, and a quintal of salt is added to eighteen of the mixture ; and before these ma- terials are put into the melting-pot, dhey are placed about tea hours in an annealing-oven. At the entrance of the works, ma- chinery moved by w ater, pounds the broken crucibles for the purpose of being employed in the constructing of the fur- naces. We expected to obtain a good deal more information from one of the overseers, who shewed us the manufactory : but M. Leschevin having remained a considerable time w ith him in the subterraneous gallery which serves to keep up a current of air towards the furnace, the man, on seeing him bear without seeming inconvenience, a very great degree of heat, began to suspect him to be a glass-maker who wished to steal his secrets ; after w'hich it was impossible to get another w'ord out of him. Near Epinac ends the department of the Cote-d’Or, We pur- sued our journey through that of Saone and Loire, and arrived at Autun about sun-set. 83 MILLIm’s THAVELS I-V FRANCEir .CHAP. XU. A V T U K — — K O A N CAUSEWAY S- — A lii P B I T H K A T R E— N A U- MACHTA- DESTRUCTIVE MANiA OF THE AUTUNESE — • VANDALISM ROBBERS OF STONE ANCIENT WALTS -—TEMPLE OF JANUS GENEtOISE -ARROUS TEM- 3’LE OF PLUTO -GATE OF THE ARROUX 6 ATE AN1> CHURCH OF ST. ANDREW- — PYRAiM|D OF GOUiiARD — - TEMPLE OF APOLLO. w E are now then in the celebrated city of Bibracte, tlie an- cient capital of the iEdui, whom Pomponius I'^Iela calls the most iliustrious of the Celts ; and who had always enjoyed a very great authority in Gaul. Caesar taking advantage of their hatred to the Ailobroges and Arverni, had the address to draw them over to his side and rewarded their attachment with the title of bretliren and allies of the Roman people. They were afterwards first ad- mitted into the senate; and it is a curious fact that till 1739 the citizens of Autun and Rome respectively enjoyed the free- dom of both cities. The territory of the Aidui was situated be- twixt the Liger and Arar (the Loire and Saone,) which comprized a great part of Burgundy and Nivernois; and they exercised autho- rity over several people whom Caesar calls their clients. Out of flatttery to Augustus, they changed the name of their capital into Augustodunum, from which the modern one has been formed by contraction. Autun is situated on the side of a steep hill near the Arroux^ at the foot of three high mountains^ which cover it on the south and east. One of these mountains is still called Montjeu (Mons Jovis, the mountain of Jupiter), the name of the second is Tvlontdru, which is supposed to be derived from Mons Dru- idarum, and to have been the residence of the ancient Druids; the third is the highest; it is called Mont Cenis, and, like ^iont Cenis of the Alps, has a pond on its summit, which fur- nishes the inhabitants of the city w ith an abundant supply of limpid water. Before w'e proceeded to take a view of the town, we w'aited upon M. Augustus Creuze, then sub-prefect, to wiiose pen w e AMPIIITIIEATTIE OF AUTUN. 89 are indebted for several elegant and pleasing productions : he had the goodness to accompany us in our walks to examine the principaLremains of antiquity. In one of the streets of Autun there still exist immense blocks of granite, which formerly was the base of the ancient Roman causeway. But as the superstratum no longer covers them, this pavement is very dangerous and difficult for horses. Several Roman ways centered in Autun^ and vestiges of them are still visible. To judge from the plates published for some few years back, of the Amphitheatre of Autun, we might suppose that it still ex- isted almost entire, and might rival the magnificent structures of the same kind at Arles and Nimes : this was owigg to the authors having copied Montfaucon. Now- however, there are no vestiges of it left — not even the insignificant ruins engraved in the oyage pittoresque de France. It would seem as if the Autunese had always entertained sentiments of hatred against the monuments that adorned their city : none of them seems to have any regard for them ; on the contrary they shew as much zeal in destroying, as others would for their preservation, d'he walls of the Amphitheatre have long been and still are looked upon merely as a kind of quarry. In 176^2, the stones were employed for building of the Seminary. In 1764, the muni- cipal officers granted the right of pasturage on the site of the Amphitheatre, and the right has lately been l eneu ed; but this is no longer attended with any inconvenience, as the monument is now entirely covered with earth. So late as 1788, a consider- ab’e quantity of stones were taken from the wails and the An - phitheatre, for repairing the church of St. Martin; so that no- thing remains but some of the* lower vaults under ground. And yet we blush not to accuse the Turks of gross ignorance, and call the Mussulmans barbarians, because they destroy ancient edifices for the purpose of employing the materials in building their mosches ! It is supposed that the Naumachia was in the fields lying lower than the site of the amphitheatre. In the environs there still ex- ist some remains of the aqueduct which conveyed water to it. From the information which we received from M. Chapet, manager of the glass-house at Creuson, it may be presumed that the amphitheatre was built in the reigu of \ espasiaii. He found in the body of the ruins a medal of that emperor, which he de- posited with the mortar adhering to it, in the collection of medals belonging to the College of Autun. During the revolution, however, this medal, as well as the other m that collection, were lost. MILL IN.] M MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. SO The authors of the Voyage Pittonesque cle I a France^ have eiven a plate of the remains of a theatre, which they say is near the amphitheatre, and the seats of which still existed ; but we w ere not able to discover a single vestige of it. The ancient w alls formed a vast enclosure, and w ere protected by forty tow’ers. These w^alls, of which w e found only a few traces, were built of granite, and time had so united the cement with the stones, that the w'hole formed a solid, hard mass. The outside was covered with small stones so exactly joined, that in the parts that have been preserved, the surface is still quite smooth. ’Tis not then the hand of time, nor the rage of barba-? rians, that have destroyed them, but that mania which impels the AutiUiese to overturn every thing. The city however, prose- cutes such as are detected in stealing stones from the ancient mo- numents : we saw a man who had been fined twenty francs for that crime. But the preservation of these monuments is not the object they have in view ; the right of destroying them belongs only to the city ; it is a vandalism which the municipality reserves exclusively to itself. At some distance beyond the bounds of Aiitun, on the side of the gate of the Arroux, and beyond the rivulet of the same name, stands a considerable ruin, which the inhabitants call the Temple of Janus ; for which however, no reason can be given but its square shape. The bounds of the building are marked by the ruins of walls rising above the ground ; but only the south and west sides are standing. They are built of granite, and the cement is become almost as hard as the stone. The outside faces are fifty-two feet in extent, and the interior thirty-nine. The walls are sixty-five feet in height. In the low^er part of the south wall there is an opening like a gate, and on each side of it in the interior of tlie temple, a niche. The w'est w^all has two gates, in the ipiddle betw^een wdiicli there-is a large niche. There still exists a part of the north w all where it joins the west one ; and here we see a remnant of the first niche, from w'hich it W'ould appear that this w'as similar to the opposite side. It may therefore be concluded that the principal entrance of this edifice was on the east side, which has been destroyed to within a very small distance of the ground ; and stones w^ere there found w hich belonged to the flight of steps for ascending into the temple. There can be no doubt however, that there was r lateral door towards the south, and ^inother towards the north. The statue of the god was probably placed in the large niche, op“ posite to the principal gate, and between the twm doors of com- munication with the dwellings of the priests, which must have RUINS OF an ancient TEMPLE, 91 beerl situated to the west of the temple. An observation made by M. Devoucou, secretary to to the sub-prefecture, contributes to strengthen the probability of this latter conjecture : he assured ns that a considerable number of fragments of marble were found on this, but far less on the three other sides. It is remarkable that the two large openings, or gates, have ex- ternally on each side a half-niche, which it is evident had been made at the time the wall was built. Over the gates, about what may be called the first story, there are in each wall three windows, shaped like an inverted pyramid ; they are very wide on the inside, but externally very narrow, 7diere are likewise several rows of square holes, which seem to have served for fastening the posts of the scaffolding. Close to this supposed Temple of Janus, there stood a mo- dern building, on the ruins of a more ancient edifice, riie Autunese called it the Genetoise; a word derived from Janitec- tus. It has been supposed that this was the site of the habita- tions of the priests. A view of this small edifice has been given in the Voyage Pittoresque de la France but when we visited the spot, we could not find a single vestige of it remaining. And the same fate seems to await the ruins of the Temple of .Janus. The municipality, instead of keeping possession of the field on which it was built, has either sold, let, or neglected to purchase it. The farmer who owns it complains, that the heap of rubbish attracts the curious, who trample down the corn; for not even a foot-path to it has been reserved. He has an ad- ditional motive for desiring its removal, as the site would enlarge the arable part of the farm ; and accordingly he contri- butes all in his power towards accelerating its complete destruc- tion ; and no one seems to care whether it be preserved or not. They had begun to dig in search of antiquities in the inside of the temple : but these researches were soon abandoned, under the pretext that there was danger of weakening the foundation, and throwing dowm the walls. It is to be wished that the work were resumed with precaution, and continued walh assiduity here, as well as in the Circus and the Amphitheatre : the city might be obliged to defray the expence, as a kind of expiation for the barbarity with which it has hitherto treated these monuments. The river Arroux is of considerable breadth, but not deep enough for navigation till two leagues below Autun.’ The last bishop of the city, whilst president' of the States of Burgundy, had proposed to render it navigable, by deepening tiie bed ; and preparations w'ere making to begin the work, when the revolution put a stop to it. T-die Academical Society lately coinniissioned M. Devoucou, one of their members, to draw up a inemoiial on M 2 92 MILLIn’s travels in FRANCE. the subject ; but it appears, that the execution of the project would be attended with considerable difficulty, because Autuii has not many manufactures oi- other articles, to be exported, and the consumption of the place cannot give rise to any considerable importations. From the banks of the Arroux, there is a good view of tlie whole city, wffiich rises on the bill in the form of an amphi- theatre. We pursued our walk down the river, to the bridge, which, together with the ancient gate, has a very picturesque effect. At the extremity of the bridge there was a ruin, which the Autiinese decorated with the high-sounding title of the Tem- ple of Pluto, on account of its circular form, which, how'ever, w'ould rather have indicated it to be a temple of Vesta : perhaps it was only a tower. During the troubles of the Ligue, it was converted into a redoubt. ^^ear it stood another round edifice, which was called the Temple of Proserpine ; probably for no other reason but its being in the neighbourhood of the pretended Temple of Pluto. The floods of the Arroux have entirely demolished it. The Gate of the Arroux, called likewise the Gate of Sens, is undoubtedly the most beautiful remain of antiquity in Aiitiin. It is nine toises and a half in breadth, by eight and a lialf in height, and consists of two large-arcades for the passage of carriages, and two smaller ones for pedestrians. A magnifi- cent entablature crowns the four arcades, and above it rises a kind of gallery, formerly composed of ten arcades, but of which only seven remain. The range of arcades on the side towards the city, are entirely destroyed. The small columns of the Co- rinthian Order, which separate these arcades, are fluted wdth the greatest exactness. It has been supposed that this gallery served as a place to station the musicians in, at the entry of princes, and on other such solemn occasions ; but this opinion does not seem to rest on any probable authority. We particularly admired the richness of the grand Entabla- ture ; the eaves and moulding are covered with ornaments dis- tinguished by the most delicate lightness of workmanship ; the capitals are in the best style. The solidity of the construction is no less remarkable than the elegant style of the architecture: though the stones are put together without cement, the joints .are so close that it is impossible to insert the blade of a knife between them ; and the arches, notw ithstanding the enormous W'eiglit of the superincumbent gallery, stand firm merely in consequence of the form given to liie stones with which they are constructed. This beautiful monument has more to dread from the gross thoughtlessness of the inhabitants, than from the ravages of time., in 17y4, they, planted over this gate, in the center of the ANCIENT GATES OF AUTUN. 93 gallery \vith which it is crowned, a tree of liberty. No care is taken to trim the stones, so that the mosses and lichens attach themselves thereto, and the cheiranthus, the valerian, and the wall barley-grass, tind sufficient soil to vegetate ; and it is to be feared that the roots of these plants will at length disjoint the stones and disfigure and injure the edifice. We next went to the gate of St. Andrew, which is likewise called the Gate of Langres. It is two toises in breadth, and bears a considerable resemblance to the one I have just been describ- ing, having likewise two large arches for the passage of car- riages, and two small ones for foot-passengers. The gallery, or arcades, on the top, remains nbt only on the side facing the country, but likewise towards the city. Some of the Ionic pilasters still exist. It is astonishing how w'alls which are not eighteen inches in thickness, separated about ten feet, and con- structed without cement, could have endured so many centuries, without a single stone being rent by the effects of frost or a false position ; and this may be adduced as an additional proof of the great care of the ancients in the selection of the materials, and in the erection of their edifices. The vault of this gate is fallen down, and only the walls of the two faces remain. To the right, on entering the city, stands the church of St. Andrew, vvhici\ considerably extends beyond tlie gate on each side : the postern adjoining it even served for an entrance into the vestry. As these gates do not furnish the Autunese with any consider- able masses of stone, they have not destroyed them ; but though fortunately, for want of sufficient temptation, they may have suffered them to subsist, no measures seem to have been taken to preserve or repair them. We finished our visit to the ancient edifices at the Stone of Coiihard,” close to a village of that name, at a very small distance from Autun. This is an enormous mass composed of small square pieces of granite brought from the neighbouring moun- tains. It stands on a mound of earth, which likewise appears to have been raised by the hands of men ; and, though now only a confused heap, without proportions, which the inhabitants and the municipality consider merely as a stock of building-materials, seems to have had a pyramidal form, not unlike that of the mo- nument near Home, which is called the Pyramid of Celsus. The Abbe Jeannin caused workmen to dig into tiiis monument in an horizontal direction ; but the ' interior was found to be a solid mass of stones. About two years ago, M. Devoucou caused an opening to be made across the first layer of the pyramid ; but uotliiiig was found in consequence of iiis researches ; and be thence concludes that it was not a funeral mouumeut, without, however, adopting 04 MILLIN’s TJtAVELS IN FRANCE. the opinioft of those who suppose it to have been a pharos^ or beacon. But it is probable that the body would not be deposited immediately under the pyramid, but under the tumuluSf or mound of earth. It has been pretended that it was the tomb of Divitiacus, a celebrated ^duan, whose name is mentioned seve- ral times in Caesar’s Commentaries ; but this conjecture is not even supported by probability. Near this pyramid is the Field of Urns,” so called because large vases, supposed to be funeral urns, have been found there : but it may be objected that at the time when Autun W'as a flou- rishing Roman city, the custom of burning the bodies of the dead had been abolished. M. Chapet, director of the glass-manu- factory at Creusot, who had seen several of these urns, told me, that they had the shape and dimensions of large a^fnphorad. Per- haps then there may have been wine-cellars near this place. Very near the field of urns lies the Champ des Tombeaiix,” where Christian tombs have been found. Several of them have been removed into the gardens of the city and environs. On this side of the city there are a very great number of mills. Though it grew late, and we were much fatigued with our long ramble, w e could not refuse a few' moments of attention to a wall about four feet in thickness, composed of different layers of brick and granite, which still exists in the garden behind the Laurier- vert inn ; and w liich tradition, though without any plausible rea- son, declares to be the remains of a temple of Apollo. The cement which binds the layers is distinguislied by an extreme de- gree of hardness. In the evening we returned by the gate of St. Andrew. In the morning we had noticed in a neighbouring field, bricks that formed a regular bed, and fragments of cement covered with fresco paintings : w e were in hopes of discovering a mosaic pave- ment, but saw' only vestiges of a large Roman chamber-flooring, made w ith very hard mortar, in the manner described by Vitru- vius. M. Tagot, a farmer, told us^ that in ploughing his fleld on the site of the amphitheatre, he had found a fragment of marble which he showed us: we could only make out the letters AEL. M. It is now built into his chimney. Under it lay a skeleton, which was removed to the college, and pronounced to be a tapir: M. Tagot however assured us, that this pretended tapir had the hoof of an ass ; and M. Chapet, who had seen it, is persuaded that it is the skeleton of a horse ; which is extremely probable. CHAP. xur. THE CASTLE— CHI3RCH OF ST. NAZAlRE— THE CATHEDRAL -^ZODIAC CAPITALS— FOUNTAIN — FIELD OF ST. LA- DRE — STEEPLE — LIBRARY OF THE CHAPTER MANU- SCRIPTS — VARIOUS CURIOSITIES — DIPT ICS — INSCftlP- TIONS— ANCIENT GEOGRAPHICAL MONUMENTS — DES- TRUCTION OF MONUMENTS MEANS TO PREVENT IT TRADE AND MANUFACTURES MINERALOGY. Our friend M. Leschevin wishing to make a mineralogical excursion among the mountains which surround Autun, he set out at break of day with Dr. Baliard, junior, who kindly offered to accompany him as his guide. As we had several tilings yet to see, we made the best use of our time to finish our observa- tions. The city is divided into three parts. The higher is that called the Castle, and containing the two cathedrals. The ancient one dedicated to St. Nazarius, has not been finished : it is built over the subterraneous church of St. John of the Grotto, \vhich is supposed to have been a catacomb. The new cathedral was formerly the chapel of the dukes of Burgundy, The lateral gate on the side facing the hotel of the sub prefecture, is of very modern construction : but is remark- able for four columns, each of different and very singular work- manship, which have been preserved in it. One of these columns is sculptured throughout its whole length with pine-cones : on one half of the shaft the cones point upwards, and on the other the point is directed downwards ; and the two parts are separated by a groove. Another is ornamented with ribands interlaced, and studs in the middle. A third is entwined spirally with the branches of a vine, bearing grapes. The capitals are square, and are ornamented with scriptural subjects. These columns support two arches ornamented with medallions, representing al- ternately signs of the zodiac and the labours of the various seasons of the year : we there see a man killing a hog, a shepherd keep- ing his flock, a woodman with a bundle of sticks on his shoulder, U man threshing corn, , forty of which were found in a neighbouring field, and which, as is well known, were current in Gaul : and in imitation of them the Gauls struck their gold coins; on which we likewise find a rudely-engraved figure of Victory on a two-wheeled car. We next took a walk to the ruined church of St. Martin in the Fields, to examine some Celtic figures which we were told, re- mained iheic : but we could not find the objects of our research. As vve passed by the churcli-yai d, we read over the gate, the w ords Jaer Sonmi: this inscription w^as placed there in J77 , long before the time when the Revolutionists gave to ail the burying- tjrounds the name of Fields of Best or Sleep. At Chalons, the scales of the bleak (cyprinus alburmis) which are caught in great abundance, are used for preparing the substance w hich serves to give the peculiar colour and brillianoy to artificial pearls. L 111 j CHAP. XVI. PASS AGE-BO AT— SEGUSI A NT— OI]rJOUX--~LA ROME— CO- LOMBE — TOURNUS FL ABE LLUM — M AT ISC O — -M A GO N CABINET OF M. K O U J OU X — A N TT QU E M O N U M E N TS, &C. CUSTOMS AND MANNERS OF THE MACONESE WOMEN. IT O S P 1 T A L D E V A S T A T 1 O N S— M A N U F A C T U R E S ABBE Y GF CLUNY. CoNCEIV [NO that the navigation of the Saone w’oiild be more pleasant than travelling by land, we took a place in the pas- sage-boat, called the Water-diligencej a name which it well de- serves, as it proceeds almost as fast as a stage-coach- On quit- ting Chalons, we passed by the territory of the ancient Segusiani, situated on the left bank of the Saone. In Caesar’s time they were subject to the ^dui ; but seem to have been freed from that dependence in the time of .Pliny : whilst Chalons, oitrmis, Macon, and the towns on the right bank, continued to belong to the iEduan territory Soon after we saw the mouth of the Canal of the Centre. At a place where the river forms a large bend, a short cut has been made across the fields. The Grone fails into the Soane on the right, and for a considerable space tinges it of a yellow colour: Having changed horses at Colombe, we passed under a handsome bridge at Tournus : the piers are of stone and the arches of wood, with an iron balustrade. A toll was demanded for keeping it in repair. Tournus, called Tinurtiuni in the Itinerary of Antoninus, is pleasantly situated on the declivity of a small bill : but has no quay. There was formerly here a celebrated college. The monks of the abbey had a curious antique Jiabelluniy or fan, with an ivory handle, and covered with figures, emblems, and in- scriptions ; with which the deacon formerly drove away the flies from the altar during the celebration of mass. This curiosity is now in the cabinet of M. Roujoux. A little below Tournus, the Saone becomes very broad. We arrived at Macon about eleven at night. Macon is derived from Matisco, the name it had among the ancients. The Romans had here a manufacture of arrows. 1 MILL! NS TEAVELS IN FRANCE. m Next morning we waited on M. Roujoux, prefect of the depart* ment, where we met with a most friendly reception. His son, a well-informed yoimgman, and fond of antiquities, had the good- ness to accompany us in our walk through tlie place. His own cabinet contains some curious monuments, particularly several bronze figures, lately discovered in a well. M. de Roujoux also possesses part of a fine dyptic ; but unfortunately it bears no inscription ; otlierwise we should leani who the consul is who appears in it. He is cloathed in the foga laticlaviay or garment wrought with purple, he bolds in his right hand, not the kind of bag which they called Mappa circeiisis and which the consul threw into the area of the amphitheatre to give the signal for the games to begin, but a patera or gohlei ; he is seated between two other patricians also decorated witli the toga and latidavia ; perhaps they re- present two of the same finnily; one of them is beardless, and may be the sou of the other, v\ho seems more advanced in years. They assist at tlie public games in a sort of booth, which has a support oruamented with different compartments. The tablet of the Lampadiire presents ihem asthus assisting to the number of three, at the courses of the Circus, in a booth nearly similar to the one described. It is also adorned with four heads which Maffei takes to be the children of Lainpadius; but the order and symmetry in which they are placed, leave no doubt that they serve for onianients to the extremity of the pillars which support the balluslrade. There are to be seen on several tablets, the combats of men and animals. There are also prize-fighters engaged with lions and bears. In this one they combat w ith boars, and it is the only monument which I know' that represents this singular spectacle, in the middle of the area of the amphitheatre are little doors, vrhich by opening at the instant, may preserve the combatants, when pursued too closely by the animals with w^hich they engage. The most curious piece of antiquity in the cabinet of Monsr, de Roujoux, is a blood-red Jasper of an oval form, engraved on the two sides. The first represents the emperor holding the spear, and borne upon an eagle, which is the symbol of deifi- cation. Hercules naked and armed wdth his formidable club is on the right. Mars in compleat armour, with his lance and buckler, is on the left ; both regarding with admiration the new divinity: above is Neptune with his trident, and half immersed in the ocean, and who also is a witness of this apotheosis. Around are the signs of the zodiaic. The reverse personifies the Earth seated on a fertile soil ; she bears on her head the Inodius, or basket full of fruit. She is sur- rounded by the Four Seafjons of the year. The sun passes majes- CURIOSITIES AT MACON. 1.3 tically above in his car, drawn by four horses ; around are the signs of the Zodiac. It is evident that this stone relates to the apotheosis of some Roman emperor. It has not been executed at the best era of the art ; and hence it would appear to represent one of the last princes who received divine honours; and among them we should stop at him to whom they were decreed in Gaul. VVe know' that the Gauls, from their love for Victorina, who had so much authority among them that she was called Augusta, and mother of the Armies, placed her son Victorinus among the gods : several medals have preserved to us the record of that consecration. It is therefore probable that it is the event here represented : the signs of the zodiac indicate the celestial abodes to which Victo- liiius retires. The deities of Heaven, the earth and the water, take part in this apotheosis. It is possible that this stone w^as engraven to soften by the recollection of the honours paid her son, the grief of Victorina for his death. We should have been able to make several valuable dis- coveries at Macon, if we had always met with people of such an active and intelligent mind as M. de Roujoux. They found in 1764, a treasure of antiquities in the soil on w hich they built I’Hotel de Viile. It consisted of a considerable number of medals of all metals, down to the reign of Galli Enus, which establishes the presumption that they were buried during the time of the thirty tyrants. Amongst them were several silver figures, goblets and dishes^ M. de Tersan has one of the last, in the middle of which is a man sacrificing. Caylus has given but indifferent representa- tions of these monuments, which are however, of little im- portance. One of the most curious is in the possession of M . de Montegut, at Thoulouse : it is a little silver Cupid. After having view^ed most of the curiosities^ we visited the church, where the bishop of Aiitun administered confirma- tion to sixteen united parishes. It was the first time that the ceremony had taken place since the Revolution. This day was consecrated to all the women of the country ; and we saw tlie/n in their holiday costume, which w'as not different from that which they usually wore, except in being more particularly neat, and clean ; this costume consists of a cloth petticoat, generally blue, with a corset of the same: the edge of the petticoat had a border of a deep red colour. That which most distinguishes the costume of the women of M^con, is the little felt hat, which they wear on the side of the head : they w'ear also a very little cap, which shews all the points of the hair. Every one takes off the little hat on entering the church, and carries it in her hand. The countenance and manners of these w'oinei: expressed a de- -MIILIN.] p U4 millin’s travel^ in prance. votion and veneration, which the respectable appearance of the worthy prelate was well calculated to inspire. The ceremony is generally celebrated under the dome of the hospital called /a Chante\ the cathedral was destroyed in the time of rage and destruction by the revolutionary fury of the M^connois. The emperor has given orders to rebuild it: in fact, the chapel of an hospital should only be for the sick and those who -come to administer to their wants; for it is neither decent nor wholesome for the inhabitants of a city to attend public worship in the same place with so many people suffering under different distempers. We examined the four wards of this hospital, but there was not that appearance of comfort and cleanliness which we had observed in the hospital of Chalons. It is true the revenues of the house are much dimininished since the revolution; they amounted formerly to the sum of 114,000 livres, at present they are only 40,000. From the study in the house of the professor is seen a most beautiful and extensive prospect ; the plain, which is of great ex- tent, is very much diversified : the Saone forms a large sheet of water under the windows at a little distance, and when the wea- ther is clear, Mont Blanc may be observed raising its lofty head above the clouds. The city is dark and dirty, and has but one handsome house. The streets of Macon are chiefly of flint stones, but there is a foot- path of better pavement next the houses. Here are no buildings nor manufactures of any note ; there is only one of paper for hanging. The principal article of com- merce is the wine of the country, which is in great esteem; the sweetmeats, and above all the marmalade, are excellent. If the interior of the city he dirty and disagreeable, the quay ou the Saone is very pleasant, and is lined w ith several handsome houses; the view is always enlivened by the number of boats which are constantly passing and repassing on the river. There \s a Slone bridge of thirteen arches over the Saone. Tiiere is in Macon u society of agriculture and arts, which pay also some attention to history and literature, but agriculture is chiefly the subject of their enquiries, and nothing is neglected that may be useful to the community. We had a great desire to see the celebrated abbey of Cluny, but it is totally in ruins* W'^e tlierefore determined to leave Maco^i the next day. 'prwn / •3 ) f 4 Miltin's Travels. ( 11 ^) CHAP. XVII. ST. R0MA1N — BEAUREGARD RIOTIER DRESSES OF THE PEASANTRY TUEVOUSE LYON DIFFERENT ESTA- BLISHMENTS IN THAT CITY. W E embarked at five o’clock in the morning on the 10th of IM ay, on board tlie zoatej' diligence^ called la Sagesse, and had every reason to be pleased with our preference of the water. All the way from Macon to Lyon, the sight is refreshed and amused, by the delightful appearance of the bank on the right side of the Saone. We behold several villages, mansions, and moun- tains, in addition to which, the water-side is covered with trees. The island formed by the Saone, above the bridge at IMacon, presents a delightful picture. This river is only navigable from Auxonne: although slow in its course, and generally very still, it at times inundates the shore, and leaves behind a thick and viscous slime, which des- troys the vegetables. It is probably this slime that makes the waters of the Saone so unfit for use, particularly at Lyon, but they are good for the purpose of dyeing, and all the dyers of Lyon have their houses on the banks. We changed horses at St. Ilomain, and presently passed Eeauregard ; we stopped at Riotier, a small village where there are several little taverns ; the women and girls belonging to which, ran to meet the travellers on their landing, to gel them for guests. We now no longer see the little felt hat of the Miconoise pea- sant; here the women are all habited a la Lyonnoise, the hair without powder is turned up behind en chignon, a cap trimmed with lace in small plaits, the bosom is entirely covered with a handkerchief, also ornamented with lace, the gown is generally green or brown ; the richer sort wear a border of broad silver lace, the apron is rose colour, and the shoes black leather with small heels, the neck is generally adorned W'ith a necklace of gold of three or four rows. At noon we continued our journey, and passed the little town of Trevouse, the situation of whicli, is chearful and pictuiesque, being on the slope of a hill, and on the border of the Saone; on the summit is seen the ruins of the ancient fort. On the banks 116 MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. of the river is the hospital ; there are also several pretty houses, and many gardens adorned with trees. At the distance of two leagues from Lyon, is a large town, called Neuviile, where we again changed horses. Several flotilla composed of one or more large boats, to which were fastened ten or twelve smaller ones, were going up the Saone, many of them were laden with wine, soap, 8cc. these flotilla are generally tracked by fourteen or sixteen horses. A short distance from the river side on the right, are the quarries from whence the Lyonnois have their stone for building ; it is the chief article of commerce of these environs. The Saone contracts by degrees, and we begin to see a succession of plea- sant country houses, which present a most diversified and delight- ful prospect all the way to Lyon. To the right, are the grounds of the late celebrated M. Poivre, called la Freta, situated in front of a village, and where this learned man had laid out a plantation of valuable foreign trees. On the shore of tlie Saone, there is an arched entrance to this place, on which is a Chinese pavillion : the habitation is very picturesque. A little farther is a place called Roi, it is in front of a small island called //c- dc-Roi ; near this island is the fine house of M. Couder, a banker. All the shore to the left is hilly, and has a wild appearance. These heights bear the name of la Croix Rousse, and is the fatal place where the army which besieged Lyon established their batteries. We arrived at Lyon at five o’clock, this city is celebrated for its antiquity, its extensive commerce, its riches, and the cala- mities to which it has been subjected. The busy and populous appearance of this city, the streets, the number of the houses, shops, and warehouses, would almost have persuaded us that we were still at Paris. The ancient name, Lugiidu7iiim or Lugdimum, is common to many cities of Gaul, and from which, is derived the French name of Lyon. As it w'as so late when v/e arrived, w^e determined to spend our evening at the Spectacle ; we went to the grand Theatre^ where they performed the Opera of CEdipus, and the ballet of Pysche; as at Paris, the ballets are the chief attraction. The next day we visited the grand HotehDieu^ a superb building which is the work of M Soufflot, and the greatest orna- ment of the quay of the Rhone. The inscription merely ex- presses that it is the asylum of the suffering poor. It contains one thousand eight hundred beds, including those of the mem- bers of the establishment, who attend on the sick, and the house; the number of them is about two hundred and sixty. All these bedsteads are made of iron, there are three ranges VISIT TO THE HOSPITAL. 117 ©f them in each ward. When the number of the sick will per- mit, they have each a separate bed, but very often they are so numerous that this is impossible. We savv several very narrow beds, in which there w ere two people. The wards are sufficiently lofty and spacious, nevertheless on entering them, a very disagreeable smell is very sensibly per- ceived. We passed successively through the different wards. There are four for those afflicted with fevers, twm for the men, and two for the w'omen ; they are in the form of a cross, and unite at an atlas lately constructed, and placed under a small dome. From thence we passed to the principal dome, where was formerly a large and beautiful atlas, but all the decorations have been des- troyed, and the marks of the cannon-balls wffiich w'ere liretl on the city by the army of the Convention are very plainly to be seen. The w'ard which forms the continuation of the dome, is ap- propriated to the w'ounded, it looks to the quay of the Rhone. In the dome are several large windows, which to prevent acci- dents, are strongly grated to the height of about seven feet. To one of the pillars at the entrance of this w'ard is fastened a black tablet, with, an inscription, which imports that the com- mittee of administration to the hospital, desiring to procure the sick the comfort of a bed to themselves, had opened a subscrip- tion, the produce of which had been employed in the purchase of the necessary beds. Then follows the list of the subscribers, who contributed very considerable sums to this work of charity; there arc the names of several incorporated companies in trade, such as the merchant-diapers, hatters, 8cc. Sic. Tlie subscrip- tion in about six w'eeks amounted to the sum of lo5,24‘3 francs, which bought three hundred iron bedsteads, with a mattras to each. There are in the ward for the w'ounded, a certain number of beds, for the accommodation of persons who are able to pay about half a crowm a day : these beds have curtains, and proba- bly the people enjoy other small advantages. We Visited the surgical operation ward, and that for wounded \yomen. The different wards are not separated, and it is a se- rious inconvenience. It w'ould be doubtless, proper to inclose them, to the end that maladies of the same nature might be con- fined to one compartment, though certainly in that case, tlic air could not be circulated so freely ; however, there cannot be a more afflicting scene than a crowd of human beings in the same place, labouring uiuler a variety of maladies, coniinualiy witness- ing the siifterings of each other, and listening to the cries of agony and dissolution. 1 118 WILLKN S TRAVELS IN FRANCE. "We afterwards visited the refectory of the persons attached to the service of the establishment : we counted eighty sisters, tilty brothers, and forty or fifty novices. The kitchen is not larger than it ought to be for so extensive an establishment. We saw with regret, tliat they had not yet introduced the improvements of Count Rnmfurd, to save fuel. 'I'lie hall for pharmaceutical preparations, is remarkable for its size and for the order which is presei ved. The funds were at hist twenty thousand francs, and iiaving been well laid out, are at tiiis time increased to twenty thousand crowns. It supplies the. Hotel- Dieu, de la Charite, de fAiitiquaille, in short all the hospitals, and sick poor of the diiierent parishes, and they sell also medicines to the city. Idiis yields beyond the general expeiices, an annual receipt of twenty thousand francs. There are recipes such as the Royal Diet-drink, for which this establishment is celebrated, and which produce an immense profit to the hospital. One of the overseers and a sister, established another place for medicines, which was at liist some injury to the hospital, but that unfair experiment, had but a short-lived success. The revenues of the liospital have never been farmed, although several have bid for them. It yet enjoys conjointly vvilli the charity, w hich is united under the same administration, an income of 406,000 francs. 'i’he sisters have restored their costume, they are distinguished from the novices bv the cross which they wear at their bosoms. Tile brothers w ear at the left side a plate of silver, on w hich is engraven an image of the Virgin Mary at the foot of the cross. PVom the Hotel-Dicn, w'e w'cnt to la Cliarlte. The church is in a very good condition ; lliere is not the smallest appearance of decay. I’hey have even respected the sepulchral honours of the benefactors of the poor. On the monument of one of these lni\v illustrious men Simon Former, who died November 7 th, ibT 8 , we read the following distichs. Xatus in haprisi, sed snneta mente reverses. In Priscu voluit KcHsiioni niori Quasivit bona, sed nobis dwiit omnia scqne; tlare plus potcrat qui sua seque dedit. The supe rinteudant was polite enough to attend us to the refectory for the old men. They had just supped, and were met together to prayers, which were read by one of themselves. Friday is the day on which they are allowed to go out, aiid several have profited of the opportunity not to return to supper. In this case, the regulation of the house is, that they shall be depiived of their allowance, because it is presumed, that they INSTITUTION OF LA CllAUlTE. Vaye found something better in the town. The snperintendaut estimated about three hundred ot these persons. W hen they are all assembled, the imuiber exceeds f iur hundred and fifty. They have four meals a day. At seven o’clock they had break- fast, which consists of soup or bread, whichever they please ; at half-past ten dinner, being soup, and sometimes vegetables ; at two o’clock a repetition of the breakfast ; at five o’clock supper soup and catel bouilli. They have meat every day, and at each meal the value of three decilitres of wine, abr)ul a bottle of wine a day for each person. The dress of both the old men and wo- men is black. They have liberty to be unemployed between meals, or to work, to get money to supply their little liixin ics, such as to- bacco, coffee, &c. They have the entire produce of their la- bour. They are furnished with dress, food, arid lodging. In well regulated hospitals, the old women, excepting those who are too aged or infirm, are compelled to employ themselves in some way during the intervals between tlieir meals. They en- deavour to interest the manufacturers and tradesmen of the town, for whom they spin cotton and worsted, or do other work of the kind, suited to aged people : the inhabitants also find a benefit from it, because they have the workmanship at a clieaper rate. To teach the poor people the work, they pay for skilful snper- intendants in each branch. The aged have the advantage of being relieved from tiresome and weary hours, by an a; range- ment which puts money in their pockets and supplies them with additional comforts to meliorate their condition. It is thus that the hospitals have been kept up, uotwithstanding the loss of the greater part of their revenues, and have put themselves iii a coiidition to wait patiently the fulfillment of the promises made them by the government at different periods, to replace tlieir losses ; we think that this may be applied to the hospital of Lyon. We were shewn the wmrk-rooms of the shoemakers, where eight of them were employed in mending the sliocs of the old men ; the refectory for girls, in which tlicre are about a hun- dred and ten covers ; the oraiori/ for the old men ; soino cells ; the manufactory for carding and spinning wool, where the work is done by the hand, and not by means of machines, which how- ever wmuld turn to more advantage; the refectory for the bro- thers, about fifty covers ; and tlie manufactory for winding silk. This work is done by means of three rnachiues, in the form of lanterns, in which the reels and the bobbins turn, and are pul m motion by a vvheel like that of a crane. The wheel placed :n an outer room, and is worked by two men. Besides the chi'dren maintained in the "house, there are four thousand boarded in the country at the charge of the esta* blishment. There are also classes u here they are taught reading,^ writing, grammar, and arithmetic : at the age of fourteen years the boys are apprenticed to different masters in the city. fn the room called La Creche, there are about forty or fifty •cradles. They keep the children as short a time as possible, and in general send them to the country the next day. They con- tinue to receive aud deliver in this establishment pregnant un- married women. ITere are at Lyon, many other charitable establishments, namely, the hospital of the Aiitiquaille, which I shall more par- ticularly mention hereafter ; the depot de inendicite, which is for the reception of the poor, the insane, and venereal patients ; this institution does not appear to be so well governed as it might be. The Bureau de bienfakemee is of much more utility, they distribute fuel and food to a great number of poor people ; the Institution de hicn faisance is a particular establishment, for which they are indebted to the zeal of two physicians, M. Balinet and M. Leclerc; they are also indebted to the mem- bers of the society of agriculture, for the Btahliment de hien^ j'ai&ance, where soup a la Rumford is distributed. Tliere are also four Maisons de Charitc, one in each quarter of the city for the relief of the sick. The sisters who attend these last, also keep schools, to teach young girls to read, write, sew, aud knit. These benevolent institutions, are iiidispensibly necessary in towns where almost all the inhabitants are mechanics and ma- nufacturers : at lyon, most of the common people live by the silk works. If therefore, the jiroduce of the mulberry trees fail, as it did in the year 1787, the manufactories stop, and the workmen become destitute. A prolonged war, and successive court iiiOLirnings, produce the same effects. This unfortunate class of peop;le must then be supported until the labour of their hands W'ill again fiirnisli the means of providing for their wants; other- wise the workmen in such adverse times, would perish, or suffer the extremeties of want and misery. I'he liberal manner in wliich the several charitable institutions at Lyon aie supported, prove that the most tender compassion for their fellow creatures, is the principle by which they are actuated. The chief magi- strate can always find among them men who will charge them- selves w itli tiie direction of the several establishments, from the ,^()le motive of doing good. ’^I hey bring up their children m the practice of tliis most necessary duty. The ladies take with them their daughters to visit and comfort the sick and distressed ; they also conduct them to the houses of the rich, where they go to LIBRARY AT LYONS. 121 collect alms, and teach them to sympathize in the sufferings of others^ to make a noble use of riches, and to detest insensibility. M. Delandine, secretary of the Atheneum of Lyons, and li- brarian of the city, gave us the meeting the next day to visit the library. It is situated in a part of the buildings of the ci-devant college of the Trinite : the lyceum, which I have already noticed, occupies the rest. This library which commands a beautiful view of the Rhone, and is one of the finest structures to be seen in Europe, suffered by the attempts of the emissaries of the revolutionary system ; but it is now re-established, and the vacancies are filled with books brought from the monasteries, and with the excellent library be- queathed to the public by P. Adamoli. This generous citizen, foreseeing that the unhappy circumstances of the times might endanger the existence of his donation to the city, placed it under the protection of the municipal authority; desiring particularly; that the valuable books, to the acquisition of which he had de- dicated the whole of his fortune, might be preserved to the li- brary; and requested that a member of the academy, who was the father of a family, might join in the trust. The desires of this benefactor to letters, have been fulfilled, and the objects of his liberality, make at this time one of the most valuable parts of the library of this city, which contains upwards of one hundred and twenty thousand volumes. The building is a long and spa- cious hall, surrounded above with a gallery as in the imperial library: in the middle are several large globes, which yet bear the marks of the hammers applied to destroy them. At the extremity of the hail is a bust of Raynal, and another of F oltaire; the first is marble, that of F oltaire is a composition to imitate bronze ; a gilt flame issues from the head, and another from the heart. This ridiculous device was given by an architect. The library suffered much during the Revolution. A battalion was lodged there, and the soldiers during six months kindled their fires with the books. The library of the late M. Adamoli, is placed in ar» apartment on one side of the grand hall, which for- tunately reniaiued unopened during the siege : this collection is very valuable. Adjoining is a small closet of antiq?iities, which contains many interesting and estimable curiosities. There w^as formerly a collection of medals and coins ; during the revolution a considerable quantity, which were silver, was taken from the repository and given to a goldsmith, who valued them in the mass at 17,000 livres : as the few^ w hich remain were still in bags, we could not examine liiem. On leaving the library we went to the museum, wliicli con- sists of only one large room, in w bich there are about f u ty pic- tures ; among these is a JameSy and another saint, bv Peiii- MILLIN.J o MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. j<2<2 gin ; a by Stella, a painter, of Lyons ; an ^Moration of the Shepherds, by Jordaens ? vl Flagellation, hy Palma: there is also a v6ry fine Christ, in the mosaic of Florence. But the most curious piece of antiquity is the leg of a horse in bronze, the history of which is very singular. From time im- memorial the watermen and fishermen had observed in the Saone between the wooden bridges, on one side of that at i\isnay, when the water was low, a large substance which they called the Broken Iron Pot. The fishermen carefully avoided the place for fear of breaking their nets ; the w atermen, on the contrary, laid hold of it w'ith their boat hooks to help them up the stream. However this supposed pot resisted all these efforts for fifteen hundred years. On the 4th of February, 1 765, the water being frozen hard, and at the same time very low^, a boat-builder, one Bartholomew Laurent, perceived that what had been taken for a pot till that time, was a something of more considerable magnitude, and that it would be w'orth while to get it up. He confided his intention to one of his friends, a man named Louis I’Etoiie, and as they were not strong enough themselves, they called some porters to their assistance, and making use of a rope, after many efforts, they dragged out tins horse’s leg; they offered it to a citizen of Lyons for eighteen iivres, wF.ich he refused to give ; they then carried it to the hotel-de-viiie, and received two ionis from the prevost. Tins leg has since been placed in the museum. ft is evident that it belonged to an equestiian statue. M. Adamoh, w'ho made the donation of his valuable library to the city, w^as careful in liis researches to discover to whom this statue could have been decreed : the following inscription which still remains in the cellar of a house, rue Feiizerne, gave rise to an ingenious conjecture. j TiE. ANTlS'lTO FAVS ^ ~ ,1 T1 FI L. QVllUN A MA aci I A NO. HOMO CIllCINI I FRA El- , con. 11 IIISFANAE I TRIE. LEG. XV LIINA RIS I PIAE. FIDELIS AEFECTO, A * LAE, SVLRiC AE. C. R. SECVN I DVM. M AN DATA IMPP. DO I MINOR. NN. AVGG. INTE 5 G ERRIM. AESTIxNENTJSSIMO ' OVE. PRoeVR. TRES PROVlNc. ' G A L 1. 1 xE . V R 1 M O. V M O V A M . EQ. R, A. CENSIBVS ACClPI ! ENDIS. A DA RAM CAESA ■ RVM. STATVAME EQVES Tr SM ; PONENDAM CENSVE : RVNT INSCRIPTION EXPLAINED. V2S To Tiberius i\ntistuso Marcianus, the son of Faustus, of the tribe Qurina, of a Circcan origin, prefect of the second Spanish coliort. Tribune of the fifteenth pious and truly Apollinarian Legion, prefect of the Sulpician wing, composed of Roman Ci- tizens, honest and trusty cashier, appointed by order of the Em- peror, our august master. The first Roman knight charged with the receipt of Tributes at the Altar of the Cesars. The three provinces of Gaul have united to raise him an equestrian statue/* M. Adamoli was of opinion, and with great probability, that the leg in question belonged to the equestrian statue of Tiberius Antistius, the receiver of the contributions, who acquired this honour from the three provinces of Gaul, for his disinterested moderation. The inscription precisely says, that this statue was near the altar of the Cesars, which was at a little distance from the spot where the leg w^as found. This statue might have been thrown into the Saoue in the time of some civil commotion, or it might have been the effect of the inconsiderate zeal of the primitive Christians who had built a church on the scite of the temple of Aisnay. It is therefore extremely probable, that this leg belonged to an equestrian statue of Antistius, or of some other. It would be an important discovery if this statue could be found; for it is well knowai how’ very valuable and scarce these monuments of antiquity are ; but it appears that no endeavour to discover it has yet been made. Although it w^as only the month of May, we had a series of hot w'eatlier ; but the temperature changed, and w'e had a day of cold and penetrating rain. The climate of Lyon is not con- sistent with its latitude of 45 degrees ; the alpine and sub-alpine mountains with which this city is surrounded, make the air very changeable. The Saone has been frozen in the middle of March, and the buds of the vine have been nipped by the frost on the 25th of April. The heat is excessive in summer, and the aii- tumn is the pleasantest season of the year. 124 MILLIN’s travels Ijr FRANCE*. CHAP. XVHL ROMAN CABINET HOTEL DE VILLE DISCOURSE OF CLAUDIAN THE EMPEROR— BULL OFFERING INSCRIP- TIONS BOTANIC GARDEN-INSCRIPTION ON THE TOMB OF CALPHURNIA SEVERA CLOCK OF LIPPIUS SINGULAR SCULPTURES MARTYRS FOURVICUS CHURCH HOSPITAL — -PRISON OF ST. POTHIU ST. FRANCIS — CHURCH MOSAICS CHAPPENOST AQUE- DUCTS. IIaVING noticed some old shells a few, bad pictures, and a fragment of an antique bas-relief at the entrance of an alley in La Place Bellecour, near La Ckarite, we concluded that it was an exhibition of curiosities ; w'e therefore went in the morning and introduced ourselves to a little man, who in the first place told us, that we .must pay a shilling to see his museum. V/e went in and beheld a confused heap of the mere rubbish of mineralogy with some madripores, sham medals, and pretended antique bronzes which the proprietor, il Romano, for so he called himself, would have fain passed upon us for the most precious morsels of an- tiquity. We went from thence to the ancient Hotel de ville, now the house of the prefect. It is one of the handsomest edifices of the hind in Europe. It was built in l647, from the plan of Simon de Maupin, surveyor of the town. It was burnt in l674, and Julius Hardouin Mansard replaced the front: the figures which ornamented it are throw down, as well as those wdiich w^ere in the vestibule. We were very desirous to see the celebrated bronze tablets, which w'ere discovered in 1528, on the mountain of St. Sebas- tian, they contain the discourse which the Emperor Claiidian made in the senate, to obtain the grant for the admission of the Gauls. It w'as engraved on three tablets, but there only remain at this time tw o of them, which are under the vestibule in the building, and are placed against the wall at the left hand of the entrance. In front is the inscription, by which the Con- sulate of Lyon has commemorated the Epoch, to which they have reference. We should have been glad to collate them with ANTIQUE TABLETS. 125 t 1 i 2 numerous copies already published, but the colossal statue of the Rhone was placed before, and it was impossible to make tiiat veriiication. These tablets, are very important monuments of antiquity, as well in themselves, as in the object of their construction. Tacitus has given the speech of Claudian in the eleventh book of his an- nals, but it may be seen that he has retouched it. The stile of that emperor was feeble, but from the pen of the writer it has acquired vigour, and perspicuity, which establishes the opinion that the ancient historians have taken from the notes or traditions of the times, the substance of the harangues which were attributed to their princes and generals, but that they embellished and altered them after their own manner. The statue of the Rhone, is supported on an oaf, and on a lion, who appears in the act of roaring. It has a furious air ; but the attitude is strained ; near it is an enormous salmon. The Saone, which fronts it, is also supported on a lion ; the attitude is more tranquil, but as much out of nature, without ex- pression, and without dignity. These two colossal statues, orna- ment the Place de Beliecour ; they are executed by Guillaume Couston. The beautiful altar which w'as discovered in 1705, on the mountain of Fourviers, is as worthy of attention as the tablets of bronze, of which we have just spoken. It is known to have a curious inscription which represents the ceremony of the bull- offering in the year l 60 , A. D. for the health of the Emperor Antoninus the Pious, and for the prosperity of the colony^ Much has been written on the subject of the bull-offering; but what follows is all that is known of that remarkable ceremony. They dug a large hoilovy in the ground, into which, the piiest descended, who had to make the expiation ; he w as attired in ^ robe of silk, a crowm upon his head, and a ffllet. The bottom of the hollow w^as pierced with several holes ; and the blood of the victim sprinkled the priest, who Avas to turn, that he might be entirely covered with it. Then every one knelt before him as if he represented the deity, and his bloody garments were pre- served with the most religious veneration. The altar at Lyon, which is the most beautiful of tlie kind, has three fronts ; the principal one bears a bucranium, or buli’s- head, decorated with lillets for the sacrifice, and has part of the inscription. The second, the head of a ram, which proves that this bull-offering was also the same as w as offered in memory of Atys, to whom they sacrificed that animal. The third, the crooked sword of sacrifice, made in the form of the harp, with which Tersius cut off Medusa's head. Over this sword is Uie following inscription. 1£6 MILLIn’s travels in FRANCE. CVIVS MESONYCTIVM FACTVM EbT. V. ID. DEC. - That is to say — The mesonyctium (of this bull-offering), took place the 5th of the ides of December. The mesonyctium was probably the eve of the feast. The bull-offering was then a propiiiation, a baptism of blood. Jt was repeated every twenty years, and the women received this kind of regeneration as well as tige men. I ^ ^ ^ TAVRO EOLIO MATRIS D. M. I. D. Quod Factum est ex Impeiio Matris D. DEVM. Pro Salvte Tniperatoris caes-t.aeli Jladriani jdntonini avc-pji pp. Liherorum que eivs Ft Status ColonuE lvgudvn L. AEMILIVS CARPVS liuTl VIR AVG ITEM DENDROPHORVS VORON FECIT. (Here is the f gave of a BiiIFs Head.) VIRES EXCEPIT RT A VATICANO TRANS TVLIT ARA ET BVCRANIVM SVO INPEN DIO CONSACRAVIT S ACER DOTE Q. SAMMIO SECVNDO AB. XV VIRIS OCCABO ET CORONA EXORNATO CVI SANGTISSTMUS ORDO LVGVDVNENS PERPETVITATEM SACERDOTI DECRIVIT APP. ANNIO. A TILO.BRA DVA T CLOD VIBIO VARO COS L. D. D. D. which may be translated as follows. For the bull-offering of the grand mother of the gods Idenlus, Drudyminius, which was made by order of the divine mother of the gods, for the preservation of the emperor Cesar, I'itus, ^lius, Adrian Antoninus, the pious, as much a father to this country, as of his own children; and of the state of the colony of Lyon. Lwcins* MONUMENTAL EXPLANATIONS. 127 JEiiielius, Carpus, Sextuinvir, Augiistal, and Dendrophorus have preserved the sexual organs of the bull, have conveyed them to the Vatican, and have consecrated the altar, and the bucranium at their expence, under the priesthood of Quintus Sammius Se- cundus, ornamented by the Quindecimvirs, with an occabo (or bracelets), and a crown, to which the most holy order of Lyon decreed the perpetual priesthood, under the consulate of Appius, Annios Atiiius Bradua, and of Titus Clddius Vibius Varus. The place was granted by a decree of the Decurions.” This valuable monument is at the Hotel de Ville, in a place which bears the name of the Room of Henry the Fourth. It actually serves to contain the records of the prefecture. ‘ We saw in an adjoining room, two inscriptions of tomb-stones in the form of altars. They are not known; a piece of the right side of the first has been sawed of, with two or three of the last letters of each line. Et Memoriae Aeteru V'^italini Felicis Vet Leg. Homini Sapientissim Et Fidelissimo Negotia Ri LVGDVNuensi Artis C Taria. Qui Vixit Annis vijii iM. V. D. X. Natvs Est D. Marlis Die Martis Prof TVS Die Martis Missione Percepit. Die. Martis Def nctus est Faciendum C Vitalin Felicissimus F VSETIVLIA NICE. CON VxNX. ET. SVE. ASCIA LED CAVER NT Which inscription, after supplying the letters w'anting, may be translated nearly as follows. To the names and eternal memory of Vitalinus Felix, vete- ran of the Minervian legion ; a wise man and an honest paper < merchant, known in Lyon for his probity, and deceased after 69 years ; he was born on a Tuesday, set out for the wars on 4 Tuesday, obtained his discharge on a Tuesday, and died on a Tuesday. His thrice happy son Victaliuus, and his wife Julia Nice have erected this monument, and have dedicated it under the Ascia 12S MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. The second inscription is equally curious D M ' AEMILl VENVSTl. M L LEG XXX V.PcF. INTERFE CTI AEMILl GAIVS E VENVSTA FI LI A EM LIA AFKODlsiA LI BERTA MATER EOR VM INFELICISSIM PONENDLM CVRAVIT ESIBV’vl FECERE SVB ASciA DE bVE li A D1 TVS LIBER EXCEPT VS EST Lie EAR] US Eivso. leg To the niRiies of jEmilius Veniistus^ soldier of the thirtieth Legion; brave, trusty, and pious, and Librarian to the same Legion, killed in battle. Emllius Gains and Yenusta, his chil- dren, and iEinilia Afrodisia, free womaii, their unhappy mother, , have caused this monument to be erected, and have dedicated it under the Ascia, the free path excepted.” The function of Librarian to a Legion was that of keeping the accounts of the soldiers. \Ye passed the rest of the day at M. Puzy s, who wished to conduct us in the evening to the botanic and nursery gardens, on the hill of La Croix Pousse, pres de la desserte,” a name oiven to the convent of nuns which is there situated, because it was formerly a desart place. This respectable siiperintendant had an intention of increasing the establLshment, and to contrive a more convenient entrance by the Desert; the ground was already obtained. This botanic garden is M eil situated for the cultivation of plants of every cli- mate, even tlie Alpines ; M. Giiibert, an experienced botanist, has the care of it. There is yet to be seen in this garden the place which was for- merly the Naumachia, and the amphitheatre. The ground is dug, but there remains a vestige of the ancient principal entrance of the Naumachia, and some remains of a. vault. V/e saw in the court yard of the Desert, a sarcopliagus, the inscription of v.liich we copied, it was given in the Lyomioise Journal, but without being explained. Tlie inscription is as toliows : GHURCH OF STi JEANi 129 ET MEMORIAE AETERRN CALPVNIAE SEVERAE FIMINAE SANCTISSIMAE VIVA SIBI PONENDVM PRECE PIT CALPVRNlAE DELICATAE ET EREDl ET SVBASCIA DEDICAVIT To the manes and the eternal memory of Calphurnia Severa^ a pious wom^n ; she caused this monument to be erected for her- self, or her survivor Calphurnia, her delicata and her heir, and is dedicated under the Ascia.” Calphurnia was a young free woman belonging to Calphurnia Severn, and was the delicata of her mistress, and whom she had made her heir. The Roman ladies called by the name of Deli- cata, the young slaves whom they brought up to amuse and enter- tain them. There is seen on a bas-relief, mentioned by Winckel- mann, Tyche, Delicata of Clitalia. On the thirteenth of May, M. Bercnger, known as the author of several pieces of poetry, and other interesting productions, had the politeness to invite us to take an excursion to Fourviers : we went along the banks of the Saone in front of the Loge du Change ; this edifice was began about the end of the seventeenth centuiy, by some Italian merchants : the emblematical statues of the four parts of the world, with which it was ornamented, have been thrown down. We went into the church of St. Jean to see the celebrated clock made by Lipplus in 1598, and repaired by Guillaume Nour- risson 166'0, this clock shews the hours, the days, the mouths, the year, the phases of the moon, the festivals, 8cc. it has clock- work and a number of moving figures to the different hours, such as we see to many ancient clocks. The gates of the church are remarkable for the medallions, with figiires in relief, which ornament them ; many of these figures are very obscene, particularly those which represent the most heinous sins ; that of fornication is repeated in several places. We had been told that in the ancient garden of the fathers of the Trinity, there were some inscriptions; this garden was formerly called the garden of antiquities^ because of the numerous an- cient inscriptions which had been collected there from divers places by the family of Bel-lievre, and the president de Sen e, to whom this place has successively belonged ; at present there do not remain any traces of the garden ; one part of it is a space where they play at bowls; we carefully examined the walls but iu vain; we could only discover a small number of stones, whicli mji.lin.] R 150 MILLIn’s travels in FRANCE. from some oniamental work appeared to be antique, but witboot any inscription. We went into the workshop of a hatter who was settled there, the pillars which supported the penthouse which covered his w'arehouse, were formed of antique stones and frag- ments of inscriptions extremely defaced ; the following is the only one w'e could decypher : D M QVIETI AETEKNAE T. CASSIi LVCINVLI MERCATOR SESSOR ET CASSIA VERATIA FILIO DVLCIS S!MO ET SIBI V1V[ POSTE RISQVE SVIS EECERVNT ET SVB ACIAD. Mercator Sessor and Cassia Veratia have dedicated this monument to the manes and eternal rest of T. Cassius Luci- nulus, for this dear son, them and their heirs, and have dedi- cated it under the Ascia.” I give this accouni of the inscription that it may be known that there is such a thing in existence. Spoil has published a mosaic found in l67o, in a vineyard wdiich belongs at present to M . Mine. 1 give this detail because we spent much time in the search of it. The room w'here this mosaic now is, is generally filled with casks, it is to be hoped that the Prefect of the Department wdil obtain pei mission to re- move it from this degrading situation, and to place it in the museum. Spon has not well understood the subject, which is very simple, it is a sort of caricature of the gymnastic exercises. Yfesee a figure of Mercury, the god of wrestling, and near, are two wrestlers, one of wdiom is a wnnged genius, probably Acra- tus or Ampelus, the companions of Bacchus, and who always are among his attendants ; he is wrestling with an old satyr, who has the feet of a goat, and horns, there is also a grave man clothed with the pallium or mantle, a costume which sufficiently shews him to be Silenus ; he acts as master of the exercises ; he stretclies out his right hand to excite the combatants, and holds QUARTER OF COU RG 1 LLIO Nf, 131 tlie palm which is to be given to the victor. This mosaic and the remainder of those of Aisnay and of St. Irene, were the only monuments of the kind which were known at Lyon at the time we passed there ; since then there has been discovered in the garden of M. Macors, an apothecary, live feet beneatij tlie soil, another mosaic w'orthy the attention of the curious. It is en- circled with foliage ; the field of the picture is about twenty feet in length, it represents a large circus, and several chariots with four horses, which dispute the prize ; the competitors are distin- guished by their several colours, one of them has been over- turned, another more fortunate holds a crown, the reward of his victory, above the Carceres are three booths, in each of which sits a magistrate. ISTy friend M. Delapdioe thinks the subject here represented commemorates the games which Caligula caused to be celebrated at Lyon. He has entered on this enquiry in details which have attracted the criticism of M. Gay. It appears to me that their dispute has nothing to do with the points in question, it would have been more to the purpose to give an exact design, and a par- ticular description of this monument, which would concur to throw some light on the history of games of the ancients ; besides we must not always seek a relation between the subject of a monument and the time in which it was executed, or the spot in which it is placed : it is very possible that a chariot-race might be represented on a mosaic without any reference to the games instituted or restored by Caligula. We have already an exam- ple of a similar representation on the fine mosaic of Italica, on which M. Alexandre de la Boide has published a sumptuous work, and of which he has given a learned explanation. The quarter of Gourguiiloii is in general inhabited by poor mechanics : the streets have so steep a declivity, that excepting the public road, which has been made somewhat more convenient, it is not possible for carriages to pass ; on each side there is a kind of foot path, the steps to which are so very high that in great rains the water must run in torrents. The black colour of the houses, dirty, ill built, and badly glazed, gives to all this quar- ter a dismal and disgusting appearance ; tlie earth on this decli- vity is naturally soft, which is the cause of frequent accidents ; in the year preceding that of our abode at Lyou, a house whicli was falling occasioned the overthrow of three others. A similar event took place, according to the historians of Lyon, during the time of a procession, and caused the death of a great num- ber of people. We were shewn the place where, if we may believe ancient tradition, the blood of the Lyonese martyrs was sh<.»' in such , abundance, that thev were given to he devoured by wild hcusix R *2 13^ MCLUN’s travels in FRANCE. Lyon at that time was washed with the blood of its martyrs, as it has since been with that of its citizens. We went up the mountain of Fourvieres, of considerable jieight, from whence they derive the name of Foru n vetus. It was certainly there that the Romans chose to found their city, because they loved to build on the heights. Instead of on the banks of the Saone, they preferred settling on this mountain, and to raise the water thither with incredible difficulty by means of the beau- tiful aqueduct of which I shall presently make mention. The lower and middle parts of Fourvieres are at present inhabited by the poorest of the people ; the streets are dark, unwholesome, and disgusting, but there are on the top of the mountain several country houses that command the entire view of the city and its two rivers. The tower of the church of Fourvieres is the place from whence the first panorama of Lyon was taken. The point of sight is admirable, the Saone runs slowly aud tranquilly, washing the foot of the mountain, and beyond the city the Rhone meets and joins with it and its impetuous waves, and they become mingled together. The quays, the streets, the squares, and the bridges are filled with crouds of people, who all appear actively busy ; a perpetual hum, a confused murmur, and the sound of so many various voices is continually heard. Behind the city, on the banks of the tw'o rivers, are chearful gardens aud pleasant country-houses which command a view of all Bauphine, and this rich scene is terminated by the magnificent curtain of the stupen- dous Alps. We visited the convent of the A ntiquaille, which is said to have been built on the ruins of the ancient palace of the emperors. Since the suppression of the monasteries, there is established an hospital for vagabonds, prostitutes, beggars, in- curables, idiots, &c. attended by charitable nuns, and w hich place also contains a manufactory to meliorate by industry the situation of the poor. We were shewn a crypt, or vault, which is said to be the prison where St. Pothin, bishop of Lyon, was confined with his companions ; we were shew n also the pillar to which St. Blan- dine was fastened, to suffer the first tortures of her horrible mar- tyrdom. We went over different parts of the hospital in hopes of find- ing some ancient inscriptions, we copied one which is on the wall of a staircase, and attests the affliction of Justinius Secundus, for the loss of a lovely infant w ho lived but one year and forty- seven days ; near this are two other inscriptions, but they are too much decayed to be decyphered. We ente/edan unwholesome dungeon, where there w'as a man stretched on straw, who had all the marks of the most compl^at insanity ; over his head w as an inscription, w hich we w ished to 6 SU2TERRANE0US EDIFICE. 133 copy, but the stench was so offensive, and the place so disgust- ing that we had not the courage to do it. In the vineyard of the ancient convent of the Mlniines we saw some reiiiaiiis of po)tlcos, vihich were probably the vestiges of a theatre, and not of an ainpiiitheatre, as has been supposed, for the place did not seem likely to contain an edifice of the latter description, the seals on vvliich the spectators sat, vvere, accord- ing to custom, supported against the mountain ; we saw several hollows which are thought to nave been dens for animals that were to fight ; but it is evident that these vaulted arches vvere de- signed to support the last range of seats. In a vineyard w hich makes part of the ancient convent of Ur- sulines is a subterranean building, which is commonly called the Conserve d'emi, because it is thought that it was designed to keep water for a bath wdiicli is situated lower. The plan of this building is square, and there is a gallery all round ; the interior is intersected by three galleries which cross one another ; the entrance of eacii of these is formed by an arch; they are all vaulted, the depth is near twelve steps, nine open- ings with which the vault is pierced seem to have been designed for air.; the stone work is very solid and in good preservation, and is covered with a cement as hard as the stone itself. In one of the four corners of the gallery, which goes round the building, there is an opening about six feet above the pavement, which is said to have been made to let water into this reservoir ; but this is improbable as there is no way to let it out again ; L shall give the plan which 1 drew of this subterraneous building: 0 0 0 0 o 0 0 1 0 <') MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. i:]4 We passed the church of St. Just, which is a modern build- ing; the front is in a good stile of architecture; it is composed of four grand Ionic duted pilasters ; above these is a pediment with the word n'lm Jehovah in a glory; this church was rebuilt in the year ] 703. VVe found on the, outside, behind the wall of the choir, the following curious inscription : D, M. ATILIAE VERVLAE SEX. ATILI SABINl FILIAE DECVRIONIS VOCONTIO. RVM T. AVFILLENUS PROBUS EVOCATVS CONIVGI SANCTISSIMAE. To the manes of Atilia Verula, daughter of Sextus Atilius Sabinus, decurion of the Vocones, T. Aufillenus Probus dedicates this to the memory of his faithful spouse.” in all this quarter, to the gate of St. Irenee, w'e observed the remains of altars, tumulary stones, and other fragments of anti- quity ; we found on one of these the following inscription : DUS MANIB CAMILL AVGVSTILAE QVAE VIXIT AJNNIS XXX DIEB. V. DE. QVA. XEMO SVORVM VMQVAM DOLVIT NISI MORTEM SILENIVS REGINVS FRATER SORORI KARISSIMAE £T SVB ACIA DEDICAVIT To the manes of Camilla Augustilla, who lived thirty years and five days, who never was the cause of sorrow to any one, but when she died. Silenus Reginus her brother has conse- crated this monument to the memory of his beloved sister.” ACCOUNT OF ST. POTUlN. 13j There was also found in a neighbouring vhieyard another stone, which, without doubt, covered the tomb' of a youn Christian; it is now in the cabinet of M. Giilibcrt : IN HOC TVMVLO REQVIESClT BONE MEMORIAE VRSUS QVl VIXIT IN PACE ANNIS XV OBIETIINON MARCIAS PC ANASTIE TRVFI VVCC The last line should be thus understood. Post consulatum ANASTASIi ET RUFI Virorum clarissimorum. Thus it seems Ursus died at the age of fifteen or twenty years, on the second of the nones of March, under the consulate of Anastasius and Rufus, that is to say, in the year 4S5. St. Polhin, bishop of Lyon, is one of the most illustrious martyrs. He expired in chains at the age of ninety, two days after being beaten and abused by an outrageous multitude. St. Irenee, the successor of St. Pothin at the siege of Lyon, was not less distinguished for learning than for piety, he was en- dowed with a superior mind, an ardent zeal, with a talent for writing, which he employed against the enemies of tlie faith. The general opinion is, that he suffered martyrdom at Lyon under Septimus Severus, with nineteen thousand Christians; it w^as at this epoch that the mountain of Lyon is said to have been deluged w^ith blood. The church of St. Irenee has been almost in ruins several times ; it has notliing remarkable, it is not large, and the numerous reparations which have been made from time to lime have destroyed those remains of antiquity which would have made it more venerable. At the time we were there, some ignorant plasterers were endeavouring to effiice the last vestiges of the piety of the primitive Christians. jSi any in- scriptions ol the early ages of the church have been so covered With white-wash that the letters are not to be distinguislied; there only remains near the entrance some letters of the inerip- tion of the curious mosaic with which the nave of the chai cli was lormerly covered; there is only to be distinguished some words, and fragments of words. This insciiption has been copied again, and put up iu many places of the church and burying grounds, I have put in small capitals the letters which still remain in the mosaic. 136 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. ingrediENs locA TAM sacra jam rea pectora tunde. posce GEMEiis veuiaM, LACHRymas liic cum prece funde^ PRESULis Hic iReufci turma jacet sociorura, puos PER MARtyiiuni perduxit ad alta polorum. istoruM Numerum si uosce cupis tibi pando, millia deiia novemque fnerunt sub duce tanto. hinc muliEREs et puERi simul Excipiuritur quos iLilit atra maiius, liimc cbristi luce fruuntur/’ These verses preserve the remembrance of the massacre of the nineteen thousand Christians who were killed, without dis- tinction of age or sex, in the reign of Septimus Severus, for re- fusing to join in the heathen festivals that made part of the de- cenalia, W'hich occasioned Racine the younger to say, in his poem of La Religion Tes illustres martyrs sont tes premiers tresors. “ Opulente cite, Ja gloiie de ces bords, &c. This excursion on the mountain of Fourvieres may be thought a kind of pilgrimage; every object reminds us of the history of the primitive Christians of Lyon ; the inscriptions and the monuments oi profane history seem there mingled together only to attest the ti iumph of religion. be carriage w aited for us at the entrance of the church to take us to the aqueducts. In our way we passed the ancient chateau de Fraiu heville, w'hicli is in ruins. These gothic re- mains of the feudal system contrast extremely well with the Ro- man ruins, and add to the beauty of the landscape ; higher up the mountain on the left of the road, begin the beautiful arches of the aqueducts. These aqueducts, which w'ere to furnish the inhabitants with water and supply the baths, are very remarkable, and have at- tracted the attention of the learned. There w ere two of these aqueducts, the remains of them are yet to be seen. One is called the aqueduct Pila, because their principal streams were re- united at the foot of mount Pila ; the other is called the aqueduct of Mont-d’Or, because the stream runs to the foot of that mountain. The waters of the aqueduct Pila are those of the streams of Janon and Gier, which w ere carried by subterraneous aqueducts over the first arcii or bridge. IFese w'aters received increase fi oin other streams and rivers which were in the passage of the aqueduct, and Vihich might conveniently be conveyed thither. *r\\e aqueduct Pila begins, properly speaking, at the point of re-union with the waters at the Petite-Varizelle near St. Cha- mond. Its length is supposed, because of its windings, to be more than thirteen leagues, although it is but eight in a strait line. ANCIENT AQUEDUCTS. 137 The country about St. Chamond has a number of vallies, some of them of much greater depth than others, it was therefore im- possible to conduct the aqueduct in a stiaight line : following the direction of the summits of tlie hills, it would often have been necessary to build several bridges one over the other, which would have cost an immense sum, it was therefore resolved to follow the declivity of the hills till they could conveniently build a bridge. When they had reached the opposite side, the w atcr re-ascended to find its level. When the valley was too deep they made use of leaden pipes ,or tunnels in tlie shape of reverses! siphons, they then dug a reservoir on the top of the hill where the water collected together ; from thence it ran through leaden pipes laid along the decline of the hill to a certain depth ; these pipes passed over a bridge constructed across the valley to ascend on the opposite side, where the waters were received in a second reservoir : this method was repeated three times, the first in the valley of the river Garon, between Soucieu and Chapon- uost, which is very deep ; the second in the valley of Baiinan between Chaponnost and Saint- Foy, which is still deeper than the former ; and the third in the valley of Saiiit-Irenee, which is not so deep as either of the others. One portion of the W’aters was thus conducted to the great re- servoir of the house, caliled I’Angelique another portion was poured into a reservoir discovered in a close belonging to M. Arteau about twenty years since; a third was conveyed to the Amphitheatre, of which the ruins are to be seen in the close of the ci-devant Minimes; a fourth to the palace of the em- perors ; and a fifth to a pleasure house of the emperors, of which there are some subterraneous ruins in the house called de la Serra.’’ ' The construction of these aqueducts prove that the Romans had a very exact method of making levels : they had, however, only a very imperfect instrument, called chorobates, to take the necessary declivities, nevertheless they attained a degree of pre- cision in the work, which it is true we have arrived at, but with instruments infinitely more perfect than theirs. The road of Chaponnost is bordered with white-thorn, privet, wild cherries and eglantine; the country is very fertile. We slept at M. Berenger’s, and returned to Lyon by anotlicr road, we were extremely fatigued by the time we arrived at M. Dflandine’s, where we passed a very agreeable evening. MILLIN.] [ 138 J CHAP. XIX. THE GODDESS MOTHERS — ALTAR TO ROME AND AUGUSTUS ■ — MOSAIC THE VETERENARY COLLEGE,^ &C. M. CELANDINE and M. Berenger acconipanied us in .Hir visit to the temple of Aisiiny, where the worship of the Saviour has succeeded to that of an emperor, whom the love of his people had deihed. This church is built at the influx of the Rhone and the Saoiie, not far from the place where sixty gallic nations united in raising an altar to Rome, and Augustus, and founded a college of priests for its service. On the gateway is a celebrated bas-relief which represents three women, the middle figure holds a horn of plenty, two apples and a kind of bowl, the tw'o other figures hold each an apple ; beneath is the following inscription : MAT AVG. PHE. EGN. MED. Which has been thus interpreted, MATribus AVGustis PElIlenus EGNatius MEDicus^ or MEDiomatrix. I shall nol speak of these goddess mothers, on which sub- ject there has already been written so much : suffice it to say this curious monument still remains. There does not exist the least trace of the mosaic pavement, which is said to have been before the altar of the church, and which presented, according to Spon, “ the effigy of the arch- bishop Amblardus, who rebuilt this church in the eleventh ceiitury.” I’he roof is supported by pilasters, several of them have the capitals ornamented with small figures. That on the right hand of the altar represents the terrestrial paradise with Adam and Eve tempted by the Devil. On the left we see the Devil con- quered by thfe archangel Michael. Near the sanctuary are the four enormous columns of granite which are thought to be those formerly placed on the sides of the altar of Augustus, one of which had the figure of a genius^ and the other that of victory. It is easily seen that these co- lumns are antique, and that they were not made for this build- Augustus had not these honours paid him at Rome during his life; but they were decreed to him in the provinces after the de^ feat of Sextus Pompey, TEMPLE ERECTED TO AUGUSTUS. ’ IS{} The temple which was erected to him by the people of i\sia, the altars which were dedicated to him at Tarracone, at Nar- boniie, and at the influx of the Charente and the Segne, were de- signed for the worship of this emperor, to whom was also dedi- cated that of Rome. Among these monuments the altar at Lyon was the most celebrated, but it was not dedicated to Au- gustus till the reign of Tiberius. This temple had a perpetual pontiff, soothsayers, and diviners: those which served under the titles of priests of the altar of Rome and Augustus were men- tioned in several inscriptions, which are lost, but their names are found in many that yet remain. Caligula instituted, or re-established, with much pomp, the games which were celebrated near this altar ; they were called Ludi miscellif probably because of the different sorts of combats with which they were mingled. There were also distributed, as in the Grecian games, prizes of eloquence ; which the van- quished were obliged to furnish and offer to the victor. We finished our day by an interesting wa;If, and observed with astonishment that vast portion of land acquired from the Rhone, which has been forced to seek another channel, and to keep within the bounds assigned it. This portion has received the name of Travaux-P err ache, because the undertaking is ascribed to M. Perraclie ; it was begun in 1770 ; the enormous expence of it has already sw’allowed up the fortunes of several sharers, and there is yet but a part of it finished. The emperor has assigned funds to continue these works, but it is to be doubted whether they will ever be entirely accomplished; what has been done has removed the influx of the Saone and Rhone, and is a great advantage to the city which was before too populous for its extent, and could not be enlarged on any other side be- cause of its being surrounded by mountains, and bordered by these rivers. Prior to these useful wmrks this spot formed an island, which w^as in the possession of an individual named Mogniat ; to protect his territory from the pretensions of the agents of the royal domains, w ho laid claim to it, this individual adddressed the following verse to Louis the Fourteenth : “ Qu’est ce pour toi, grande monarque des Gaules, “ Q’un peu de sable et de gravier? “ Que faire de nion ile? il n’y croit que des sauks, “ Et tu n’aimes que le lauricr. We returned to the city by the magnificent quay of the Rhone, the greater part of Lyon is built on a flat soil between the Rhone and the Saone, w'hich unite in the west. The Saone crosses the city which it separates from the ancient Lyon in the quarter of Fourvieres. The Rhone runs in a straight line to the south of the city, the quay is very handsome, it is bordered ou the s % 140 MILLINGS travels IN FRANCE. side of the city by the magnificent buildings of the hospital and the Lyceum^ and several fine houses. This quay is much fre- quented towards evening as a promenade. There are several pleasant places about Lyon such as the walks of Bellecour, those of Perrache, and the terrace of Fourvieies, and without the city there are delightful walk to lie- Bar be, Chaponnost, Mont-Cindre, and Mont d’Or. The Veterinary college has immortalized the name of Bour- gelat the founder. The success of this institution soon at- tracted a number of national pupils, and strangers. That of D’Alfort near Paris was founded on the same plan. This col- lege is established in the place of the ancient convent of the nuns of St. Elizabeth, formerly called the house of the two lovers, the garden is picturesque and is well taken care of; at the end is a small hill covered with beautiful trees such as larches and northern pines. We met several of the pupils at their stu- dies in this retired spot. Springs of water rush spontaneously from this mountain and the basons made to receive these natural fountains are orna- mented after the Italian manner, and bear inscriptions : on one we read, DEO FONT! VIVO on another, BO NO RUM OMNIUM FONT!. The students remain three years in this college they have exercises for every day. We were shewn the cabinet of dis- sections, and the preparation room, in which is a marble bust of Bourgeiat by Boizot. On the pedestal is this inscription : ARTIS VETERlNARlAx M AGISTER. On a tablet of while marble is the following: CLAUD. BOURGELATEQUm OB INSTITUTAM ARTFM VETERINARIAM DISCIPULI MEMORES ANNUENTE REGE POSUERE ANNO M. DCC. LXXX. We observed in this room a collection of horse shoes, a ske- leton of a man on the skeleton of a horse, a man on foot in the attitude of shooting an arrow, and a sturgeon stuffed, which was caught in tlie Saone, this collection is very inconsiderable and is not in character with the importance and utility of the establish- ment. Ihe number of the pupils is about one hundred and sixty, the professors may be applied to, to procure horses and other domestic animals, or to cure them when sick. 4 CURIOUS FRAGMENTS. 141 We were informed there were many antique inscriptions set in the walls of the ancient monastery of the Genovefains^ and we again took the road to Fourvieres, in hopes of finding some of them, in which we were not disappointed, for there were a con- siderable number of these monuments, none of which have yet been published; tliey were discovered by the Gdnovefains, when they rebuilt a part of their house, and they had the good sense to set them in the wails of their convent; many of them are interesting, and some broken and defaced : we copied those we thought most curious ; among others the following ; in the court, at the entrance by the grate, there is in the wall a broken fragment with the inscription CN. POMPEIO CASSIANO TR LATiCLAVIO LEG X FKETENSl S PiVS AV It informs us that Cnelus Pompeius Cassianus, to whom it is dedicated, was tribune laticlavius, or one of those military tri- bunes who were of a senatorial family; they were distinguished by the iaticlaiva, or garment wrought with purple. There is found in the territory of Gr.enoble several inscriptions consecrated to the seasons, as FLORIDO VERL FLAV/E MESSI avtv MVSTVLENTO mno To the blooming spring ; the golden harvest ; and the ndi autumn. In the close of a house, called Ploavier, on a grave stone, is the following inscription : ~ QVIETA MEMORiAEQVE AETERNAE TVMIAE PHOEBIANAE VXORI FIDELISSTMAE | SAPIENTlSSfiVTAE I INTERCETERAS CASTAS j CASTISSIMAE 1 cvM. QVA. vixr ANNIS XXIII SINE VELA ANIMI LASiONE V. R. PHILEROS V, G. LIB. P. C. ET I SVB A CIA DEDl | — I I42' MltLIN S TEAVELS IN FRANCE. R. PhHeros survivor, freedman of Gaius survivor, coese- crates this stone to Tumina Phoebina, a faithful wife, full of wisdom, and chaster than the most chaste of other women, with - whom he lived twenty-three years without any anxiety of mind on her account. Our next pursuit was to see the house formerly inhabited by the Frencii Columella, the unfortunate abbe Rozier, so celebrated for his learning in the sciences of natural philosophy and agri- culture : it is well known that this intelligent and inoffensive scholar was killed by a cannon ball in bis chamber during the siege of Lyon. We were told that in this house were also some Roman inscriptions, which was an additional attraction. It is, situated in the Piie des Masons. We discovered it by the de- vice which was written over the door. LAUDATO INGENTIA RURA. EXiGUUM COLITO. Praise great Possessions, cultivate a little held.’' There were not, how^ever, any Roman incsriptlons, and w^e were returning, when chance led us to a neighbouring house, tlie terra(,*e of which overlooked the whole city. The proprietor of this dwelling, M. Diitilleul. acquainted us that there were several stones with writing on them; but what was our satisfaction when we cast our eves on the foflowing. which has never been pub- lished, although it is worthy of being compared to the altar of the prefectory of which we have already spoken. ^TA LVl : : : : 1 M P LSEFTIMT . RlVPliE PEKTINACIS AVG ET M AVHELl ANTONIN! CAES IMP DESTINATI ET ! IV LI A R AVG MATRTS CASTROR 1'OTiVSQVE DOMV.S DiVINAE EORVM E'i’ STATV CCC AVG LVG TAVROBOLIVM FECERVNT SERl'lCIA VALERIANA ET OPTA'ITA SPORA EX VOTO PRAEEVNTE ACLIO ANTHOSA . SACERDOTR. SACERDOTIA AEMI LIA SECVN Di LLA TIBICINE FL RESTITVTO APPARATORE VI-RE lO HERMETIONE INCHtMTVM EST SACRVM I HI NONAS MAIAS CONSVMMA TYM xNONIS EISDEM T. SEXTIO LATERANO L. CVSPIO RV INO COS T., 1>. D. D. VARIOUS INSCRIPTIONS. 14S For the heulth of the emperor Lucius Septemius Sevcrus Pius Pertinax Augustus, and of Marcus Aure]iu.s Antoninus Cesar, emperor elect, and Julia Augusta, mother of Armies and of their illustimus house ; and for the slate of the colony, Claudia Copia Augusta of Lyon, Sorticio Valeriana, and Op- tatia Spora have performed this bull ottering for the fulfilmciit of a vow. .^lias Antliosa Priest, singing the prayer, Amilia Secundilla being priestess, Flavius Restitutus player of the tiute, Vireius Hermetiou, Apparitor. The sacred riles began the 4lh of the nones of May, and terminated with the nones of the same month under the consulate of T. Sextius Lateranus, and of L. Cuspias Rutinus. . The place was bestowed by a decree of the Decurions.^’ Apparitor was a kind of beadle or officer who had to place the spectators, and to see that order was preserved. By the above calculation, the ceremony lasted four days. There were several other inscriptions which we were at the pains to copy, but ditfering very little from those we have already given, and therefore not sufficiently interesting to give the reader. We next visited M. Riols, afriend of my brother’s, who had a valuable library, which contained several books printed on vellum, in the infancy of the art. The collection of M. Tacon, surnamed the amateur, present- ed only some modern antiques, and copies which he would have passed on us for originals ; such as a cornelian. It was, as he said, the ring which Pompey gave to Cleopatra. It was after he same manne rthat M. de Crac. pretended that he possessed the sword with which Caesar killed Pompey. We were however, much pleased with the sight of M. de Boissleu’s cabinet at Belle-cour. M. de Boisseu is much respected for the mildness of his character, and the affability of Iiis manners, and admired for his genius. This real amateur has drawn a number of beau- tiful designs in pencil ; he excels chiefly in landscape ; he also engraves very well: his work consists of eighty-six pieces. We saw at the house of a young artist, M. Grobon, who re- sided on the quay of the Trone, a view' of Lyon : it is extiemi;ly correct and beautiful. It is to be hoped he will have this charm- ing work engraved. We had passed lle-barbe without stopping: w'e now' determineJCE. of the City ; it is now the residence of the prefect. There is from the gallery a fine view of the country, and of the Rhone. Near Valence is a chateau with a park which is called It Valefitinf it belonged to the Dukes of Valentinois, in the times when the country was subject to them. On the other side of the Rhone, opposite to Valence, is the tower and celebrated hill of St. Peray, which produces the wane called wine of St» Peray. CHAP. XXII. SAINT PERAY — CIIATEAUNEUF — MONT CHAVATE — LIVRON — BRIDGE OF MARBLE — THE DROME — LAURIOT MONTELIMART — BRAVERY OF MARGUERITE DE LAGE — ANECDOTE OF AN INGENIOUS CHILD — ANCONA — ROCHEMAURE VIVIERS. w E took our departure from Valence a^ half past four o’clock ; we passed in front of the prison, having on the right Saint-Peray, and Chateauneuf. This habitation is built on a rock, and has a very picturesque appearance. Before us we saw the Mont-Chavate, which presents itself at every turn of the Rhone, and which at a distance appears like one of the pyramids of Egypt. We left on the right the chateau, and the little town of laVoute; here the Rhone makes a winding, where the stream is very rapid. At half past six wm were at the mouth of the Drome. To the right is the small town of Livron, which is built on a, hill. Tile Drome, which gives its name to the department, takes its source in the Alps of Dauphiny ; it very often overflow's, and leaves on the shore a large quantity of sand mixed with a chalky substance. Formerly travellers who journeyed from Lyon to Marseille, were often obliged to stay tw'o or three days before they could cross the rivers : a marble bridge of three arches has since been built. The Drome is not navigable. From Livron to Lauriot, are many streams, which are fordable, but there are many bridges ; w'e saw afar off this last mentioned town, which has a bad appearance ; it is never- theless very considerable. It w^as nine o'clock when W’e arrived at Ancona : w'e washed to visit Die ; and we had been assured that Vv e could go more ACCOUNT OF MARGUERITE DE LAGE. 167 conveniently from Montelimart than from -Ancona: as it was delightful weather, and the moon shone bright, we set off on foot, and reached Montelimart at ten o’clock, where we rested at the hotel des Princes, Montelimart owes its name to Monteil, who had the government of it. The Latin name was Monteliiim Adhemari, of which comes the name Montelimart. Early in the morning we visited the town, which w^e went over .presently, although it is rather considerable j it is well built, and is situated partly at the foot and partly on the declivity of a hill. Beneath the walls, the Roubion and the Jabron unite, and from thence flow on until they mingle their tranquil streams with the majestic Rhone ; the shores are enlivened by cheerful landscapes, and the more distant prospect presents the most diversifled scenery ; w^e see little hills covered with vines, and mulberry, and olive trees ; in another view% plains filled w'ith orange and other fruit trees ; in one spot the yellow harvest, in another the verdant meadow. The climate is here so mild that the orange trees grow in the open ground in the gardens. Montelimart was the first city of France, w'here the reformed religion was established : there are still a great many Protestants even among the most distinguished families. The women have particularly testified their zeal for their peculiar faith. There is still to be seen a mutilated statue of Margot de Lay (Marguerite de Lage,) w’ho defended the ramparts at the breach, killed with her own hand the count Ludovic, w ho was one of the principal besiegers, and led the victors back into the city, leaving an arm on the spot where she acquired so much glory. They drink at Montelimart a wdiite wine called claret de Lie,- it has rather an acid taste, and it sparkles in the glass like Champaine. The fields are productive, but the silk-worm and the mulberry tree are the chief objects of the industry of the inhabitants, and there are many silk manufactories. This town has produced some men of letters. Francis Bauy the civilian, was born here ; a man much respected in his time, of whom they relate the following singular anecdote: he w^as busied one day in his study, when a child came in for some Are; he had neither shovel nor tongs, nor any thin" to carry it in ; Bauy observed the boy spread on his hand a layei of cold ashes, and afterwards place on it the live coals. It is related that, astonished at so ingenious an expedient, this scholar declared he w as tempted to burn his books ; probably he had no such design, but he strongly expressed his surprize at the contrivance, which, though so simple, probably would not have occurred to the most philosophical mind. 16 S MILLION S TEAVELS IN FRANCE. We met our boat again at Ancona, where the Rhone make an elbow, and the shore presents the form of a perfect amphi- theatre. It might be supposed that tire name Ancona was derived from a Greek word, which signifies elbow ; but it is a corrup- tion of the word, Acunum, It was half past five when we embarked, the wind w as fair, and w'e hoped to be in good time at the bridge of Saint Esprit, and to go from thence to Orange, In doubling the point of Ancona, we had a full view^ of the three great rocks of lava, which are on the right side of the Rhone. A quarter of a league from Rocheiiiaure, we lauded to take a nearer view of them. These three beautiful basaltic heaps are in a line, and almost touch one another, but entirely separated, and detached from the chalky mountain, to which they appear to lie close. We approached them by a road which leads to a very pleasant hamlet called les Fontaines, at the foot of a mountain covered with vineyards and olive trees, that are always green, and which receive the first rays of tlie rising sun. Plantations, meadows, and gardens, enliven this delightful picture ; the landscape is farther enriched by an ex- tensive perspective, which presents first the largest river in the south of France, and next the town of Montelimart, with little bills covered with vines and fruit-trees of every kind, some villages of Provence, and at the distance, the extensive chain of the Alps. The largest of the three basaltic heaps is pointed, and is three hundred feet in height; the others not so high — they are only accessible on one side : all three are a very hard black basaltes, sometimes forming irregular masses, joined, and adhering together, and sometimes nnperfect columns. These heaps have no connection with the currents of lava ; wdiich occasions it be su|>posed, that they w'ere forced and raised suddenly out of the earth by the efforts of two large craters; namely, those of Rochemaure and Chenavari. We soon perceived Rochemaure, the ruins of which are very picturesque ; they appear suspended on a pile of basaltes, which bends tow^ards the horizon. This castle belonged formerly to the prince of Soubise. The burgh and little town of Rocliemaure, are but about five or six hundred paces from the three rocks of lava before de- scribed : a part of the town is situated at the foot of the moun- tain, while the other on the heights, is biiiit in the form of an amphitheatre. Several houses, which surround the castle, have their founda- tions on the lava. The little colonnades of basalt form in a very singular manner the stairs and steps at the deors of -soine of BANKS OF THE lUIONE. 1G9 these houses, the backs of other houses are set against the sloping masses of lava ; the windows and doors are framed in large regular prisms of basalt; the Hat pieces of lava arc used to make a kind of eaves to the houses ; in short, this town among the broken ruins of a Volcano, presents to the eve a very in- teresting picture. The castle is but thirty paces higher. It must have been immense ; it is fortified by steep masses ot basalt, and very high walls of considerable thickness. Hie entrance is through extensive court yards ; but all is ruin and desolation ; in one place are the remains of an armory, in another of a chapel ; we see here cisterns, wells, dungeons, and a sort of cave where money was struck — there we observe furnished halls, and spacious chambers. All is grand, all is vast, but all bear the marks of the ravages of time. The tower isbuilt on the inacces- sible summit of a basaltic heap ; near it is a crater, in which travellers may descend to a depth of nearly four hundred feet. From the casde may be distinguished the Volcano of Clie- navari, but we could not go out of our way to see it. On the very edge of the river, at the foot of the mountain is the village Theil. ^ We now continued our voyage, but the wind began to blow hard, and carried us with rapidity against a boat laden M ith merchandize ; our watermen, hovrever, had time to pre- vent the shock, but the terror expressed by the paleness of their faces informed us sufficiently that they were apprehensive of danger. We were soon in sight of a handsome chateau, situated on the bank of the river. At half past seven o’clock v^'e were near the small town of Viviers, where we landed. Formerly the current of the Rhone passed close to the walls of the town, it is now a gun shot distant. There is an island formed between the shore of Viviers and the principal current, ^’he little canal between this island and Viviers is not always navigable. The ancient bed of the Rhone over whicii we passed is covered with flints. The walls of the gardens are chieHy constructed with basalt ; the streets of Viviers are narrow, and for the most part unpaved ; the walls of the houses have a blackish cast, owing to the frag- ments ot basalt with which they are built, which adds to the sombre appearance of these habitations. The bishop’s palace, and the seminary, which are out of the town, are the onlv re- markable edifices : the first is devoted to the senate and the other to the legion of honour. The interior of Viviers is gloom * , but the environs are cheerful. At every turn we meet with MILLIN.] \ 170 MTLLIn's travels in FRANCE. some object which reminds us that the Romans formerly were the inhabitants of this country. The naturalist, the antiquary, and the philosopher, may here occupy their leisure hours ; while walking, hunting, and tishing, present other pleasures to those for whom study has no charms. in the ruins of Alba Helvierim (Aps) the following inscrip- tion is seen, which has not before been published. L PiJNAKO 1 OPTATO CVLTORI LARVM SEX ANTONI MANSVEIT ET L VALER RVFINil Each family had their lares or houshold gods ; they were kept in a kind of small chapel, which was called lararium. These images were carried with them to the wars, and in every journey ; and slaves were employed in the care of these deities, and to deck them with fiow’ers at the festivals, such as the Lapi- talia and the Lazalia, feasts particularly dedicated to them. Those to whom this duty was confided were called cidtores larum ” In the above inscription Pinarius Optatus is the cultor of the lares of Sextus Antoninus Mansuetus, and Lucius Vale- rius Rufinus ; who were, doubtless, persons of great considera- tion. It is the only instance, which I recollect, of a monument bearing the name of the cultor of the lares of particular in- dividuals The little town, Viviers, was the capital of the Fivaraisy the country so celebrated for its volcanoes. It had a bishopric. The last person who possessed this dignity is now employed at Paris in a public library. During the course of the revolution he had been inscribed in the national guard : one day when he was upon duty they came to the relief, he presented arms and approached to give the countersign to the centinel who was to take his place. Strange coincidence, it was his late curate ! The name Fiviers is very ancient : it is found in monuments of the sixth century ; it is the word Pwarii{?n or P ivaria Frenchified. From the time that Alba Helviorum w^as destroyed by the Vandals, at the beginning of the fifth century, Viviers be- came the capital of the country, which then took the name of Vivarais. This country, vie\ved from the banks of the Rhone, presents a chain of barren mountains, but little cultivated : some jitt|e rivers have formed a bason in a hollow between the moun- Singular monument; 171 tains; at the mouth of which there is generally^a village or a small town. It is thus that Viviers and Bourg-Saint-Audeol are situated. CHAP. XXIII. BOURG SAINT-ANDEOL — MONUMENT OF THE GOD, MI- THRAS — FOUNTAIN OF TURNUS TOMB OF ST. ANDEOL PONT DU SAINT ESPRIT-— ST. BENEZET TOWN OF ST. ESPRIT. At half past eight we left Viviers : at ten tlie boat passed a })art of the river which is always very rough, occasioned by some rocks that are under the water, and make the passage very dan- gerous ; however we landed in safety, about a cpiarter of an hour afterwards, at Bourg-Saint-Andeoi. We had a great desire to see the monument dedicated to the god Mithras ; we therefore crossed the town and came to a kind of esplanade, enclosed by a range of rocks, from whence issues a copious spring, called le Qra)id-Gout ; it forms an oval bason : near it is another, the water of which is received in one of a circular form, which is said to have no bottom. On the rock behind this, is the monu- ment. It is a square bas relief four feet in height and six in breadth ; it is cut and sculptured in the rock itself, which is of a chalky substance ; in the middle is represented a young man clothed with a chlamydis^ or cloak, and on his head a Phrygian cap ; he is sacrificing a bull ; a scorpion is stinging its testicles, and a dog attacks and holds it by the neck, while a serpent crawls above, and seems also to threaten the poor animal : at the lop, on the left, is the figure of the radiant sun, on the right, the moon in the increase, and in the distance are seen some rocks ; at the bottom is a tablet of this form on which is an inscription, but it is almost obliterated. According to a note which I found in the library of Ximes, among the papers of JNl . Seguier, it appears that this inscrip- tion was formerly in better preservation, and that it was as follows : DS IN VI MITIIRAE MAX M ANN I P VIS MON E V T MlUSiVS MEM D. S. PP. 172 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. The letters which are wanting may be thus supplied, Deo Soli INVSIcto MITHRAE MAXsiimus IVIANNI Filins VISii MONitus ET T jMVRSIUS MEMiniis De Suo Posuerunt. To the god Sun, Invincible Mithras, Maximus son of ISfaimus, commanded by a vision, and T. Mursius Meminus, have erected this monument at their own expence. The inhabitasits of the country believe that this monument represents a certain Tiirnas, who, according to tradition, killed an enormous serpent near this fountain, which w'as called the fountain of Turnus, and by corruption, of Tourne : but it is easy to see that this monument relates to the worship of ^hlithras. We will not enlarge on the subject, which is but little known, although it has furnished matter for many dissertations : it is sufficient to say, that under the name of Mithras they adore the sun. d his worship was brought to Rome by the soldiers of Pompey, during the first wars of the Romans in Asia ; thus these monuments became numerous. Maxsiinus and Meminus were initiated in the mysteries of this god, who had appeared to them in a dream ; and, according to the orders they had re- ceived, they erected this monument, which appears to be of the third or fourth ("eutury. lliis curious bas-relief is exposed to every injury of time, and the sports of children, who make it a mark in their amuse- ments, and are perpetually throwing stones at it. It certainly ouglit to be covered with a shutter, which should only be opened when strangers or others desire to see it, who wmuld willingly pay a small remuneration to the person who might have the care of it. iSlot far from this, in the valley, are immense rocks which have several openings or cavities. We had a little guide and some of his play-mates, who told ns of many large excavations which were to be found in the interior, and which tliey called churches in the rock. They assured ns that they had been there and seen them ; and, to convince us, immediately crawded on their bellies, and \vent in at one of these opeiiings, and, after staying some time in the interior, they came out by anotijer. In the eleventh century this place was called Borgagiates, from which comes the word Bourg. St. Andeol, the martyr, is said to have suffered there in the early ages of Christianity, under Sep- timus Severus. The precious relics of this saint are yet pre- served in the principal church ; they were found, it is said, in the BRIDGE OF ST. SATURNIN. 173 reign of the Emperor Lotharius, in the middle of the tenth cen- tury. This church is named after the saint, and we were shewn the tomb where his remains had been deposited. This sarco- phagus, which was formerly under the altar, is now in the body of the church. It has a covering formed as a roof : the front presents a tablet supported by two winged figures, placed hori- zontally, and which seem to be flying. Above the seat of each of these figures is a dove with the wings spread. On each side of the tablet there is a rabbit, and near the bottom a bow and quiver of arrows. The smaller sides of this sarcophagus are or- namented with wreaths of flowers. These arms and figures are not at ail suitable to the tomb of an holy martyr, and the following inscription sufficiently proves that this is the tomb of a heathen. i). M. TIB. IVLI. VALERIAN Q. ANN. V.M.VII.D.VT. IVLI VS. GRANTOR ET TERENTA. VALERIA FILIP DVLCISSIMO It is therefore evident that this monument was made by Julius Grantor and Terentia Valeria, for Tib. Julius Valerianus, their son, who died, aged five years, seven months, and six days. he remains of St. Andeol could not have been deposited there after his martyrdom. However, it is possible that the relics of tlie saint, at a later period, might have been enclosed in this sarco- phagus, which was then empty. The environs of St. Andeol are pleasant, although the town is not much more handsome or lively than that of Viviers. We left Bourg St. Andeol at twelve o’clock, and atone we were at the bridge of Saint-Esprit. We landed here to see the town and to seek for a conveyance to Orange, while the boat took our carriage to Avignon. The town of Saint-Esprit was first called St. Saturnin-du Port ; it only took its new name after the building of the bridge, which occasioned its celebrity. It was begun in 1265. A bull of pope Nicholas the fifth, informs u>, that it was built by a shepherd, who was so commanded by an angel. But it is evident that the holy father here made a mis- take, and has applied to the bridge of St. Esprit what is relateil of the bridge at Avignon, which was built by a shc[)!ierd named St. Benezet. The truth is, that the inhabitants of Saint-Satur- nin, alarmed at the frequent wrecks which happened in the passage of the river, built tliis bridge, which they called Pont- 174 MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. dii-Saiiit-Esprit, because they atiibuted this happy idea to di- vine inspiration. They collected contributions from every part- aiid gathered together materials. The prior of the monastery of St. Saturnin, Don Jean de Tyange, began then to oppose the undertaking, which he looked upon as an infringement, on the rights of his monastery, but he was at length convinced of the necessity and utility of the woi k, and laid the first stone him- self. This bridge is a very fine piece of architecture. It is one hundred and forty five toises in length, and seventeen in breadth; it has twenty six arches, nineteen large and seveii small ones ; the larger are eighteen toises wide ; eaeh pile has an opening nhich is arched, and is of fine architecture. It is not easy to conjec- tui’e the use of these smaller arches, whether they are to dimi- nish the weight of the stone-work, or to give a passage to the water, that it may not strike against the foundations of the bridge and destroy it, which 1 rather take to be the case, as their eleva- tion is abhve the starlings of the piles : a judge of architecture w'^oiild easily conceive that they w ould serve to give a passage to the water, which would be no longer retarded and injpeded by the starlings, as when without this expedient. The keeper of the bridge has his habitation in the second pile, on the side next the town, it is easy to conceive, how va- luable this bridge must be in the estimation of the inhabitants of the town, and the neighbouring departments : if by any event it should be destroyed, it w'oiild cost an incalculable sum to rebuild it, that every care and precaution is taken for its prevention. Carriages of only a certain w'eight are suffered to pass over it, and the smallest damage is immediately repaired ; thus it lias no appearance that denotes its antiquity. It is extremely narrow, so that two carriages can hardly pass abreast ; but it must be observed, lliat when it was rebuilt, coaches and other carriages of the kind were not known. Gentlemen and ladies rode on Iiorses, and merchandises and other things were generally con- veyed on the backs of mules. The town is neater and better built than either Viviers or St. Andeoi. The citadel, which was built ill l(i‘22, yet remains in good condition. We could not find any conveyance by land, and were there- fore obliged to xe-einbark. [ 175 ] CHAP. XXIV. TRICASTINT — CHATEAU DOTH A TERRITORY OF ORANGE C A V ARES A NTT QJL' ITl ES TRl U M PH ALA RC H — HAS RELIEFS — TROPHIES AND INSCRIPTIONS CROSS-BOW- MEN — THE BRAVADOES — THEATRE — COMMERCE — MIG- N ON RAM PARTS — TOWN ITS HISTORY. we were obliged to continue our journey by water, we went again on board our boat, but it was no longer pleasant, foi the weather was sto. iny, and tlie wind contrary, and it was with great ditFicnity that we made any way. in this voyage we had on the right, the province of Languedoc, and on the left Tricastin, called so from the ancient Tricastuii, who inhabited this territoiy, and who were in subjection to the Cavarcs, a nu- merous and powerful people. Those who go from Montelimart to Orange by land, do not pass the bridge of St. Esprit, but take in their way Pierrekitte, Donzere, and Saint Paul-Trosi -Chateaux, which is the chief town of Tricastin. It was four o’clock when we landed, and took the road to Orange on foot, while our watermen conducted the boat as far as Chateau- Doria, where they were to wait for us till next day. VVe reached Orange at six o’clock : the distance was only a long league, but we travelled slowly, that w^e might see the country, the people were every where busied in gathering the leaves of the mulberry trees, to feed the silk worms. The tields , where these trees grow have a singular appearance ; some of the trees are stripped entirely bare, and under the rays of a scorching sun, present the aspect of winter in the middle of sum- mer, while others invite the traveller to repose, under the shade of their verdant and luxuriant foliage. An inhabitant of the northern departments, would here be- hold the face of the country, totally different from what he had been accustomed to see. The com fields, vineyards, and luim- berless mulberry trees diversify the enchanting prospect ; here are also to be seen, some olive and pomegranate trees. lodged at the post-house, and could see from our win- I7§ MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. dows the celebrated triumphal arch, which w e w ere so desirous to examine, and of wdiich we went to take a cursory view. We afterwards passed the rest of the evening, in conversing how we should make our stay at Orange most agreeable and advantage- ous. W e w'ere now on truly classic ground, and the farther w'e pro- ceeded, the more numerous and interesting did we find those monuments of antiquity, which the Romans had left in this country. Orange is a corruption of the word Arausio, which was the name of this ancient city of the territory of the Ca- vares. This city has been many times ravaged by the barbarians. The first known possession of Orange was the comte-Giraud d’Adhemar, who lived at the beginning of the eleventh century. The princess Tiburge, about the year 1140, caused this city to be very much improved. The principality passed in 1393 to the house of ChMons, and in J530 to the house of Kassau. Prince Maurice fortified Orange, and put it in a respectable state of defence. William the third of Nassau, king of England, dying without children, this principality came to Frederic Wil- liam, the king of Prussia, who ceded it to the crown of France, by the treaty of Utrecht, in 1713. Louis the fourteenth, by a decree of council of 1714, united Orange to Dauphine. Under the government of its princes, this city w^as in a flou- rishing state. It was involved in the religious wars, and became the theatre of scenes of slaughter, and acts of cruelty. Since it has been united to France, it has lost all its importance : in- stead of fifteen thousand inhabitants, which it formerly had, it has now scarcely four thousand. The town is small, and the streets are narrow^, dark, dirty, and ill paved: there is not a house of a tolerable appearance. The inhabitants cover the streets almost entirely with coarse canvas, tied with strings to shade them from the heat of the day. This custom prevails in most of the towns in the south, the canvas composed of pieces not all of a colour and mostly dirty, has a disgusting effect, never- theless it is a useful expedient to shelter the people from the rays of the scorching sun. Were it not for the remarkable vestiges of antiquity, which are the ornaments of this place, and the cause of its celebrity, one would be desirous to leave as soon as we enter the town. Much has been said of the triumphal arch of Orange, but there is yet no exact representation of it. They are not agreed about the time in which it was built, or for w hat reason or purpose. The following is a description of it, in its present state. This arch is in a plain about four hundred paces beyond the CURIOUS FRAGMENTS. 177 ci[y, in the great road from Lyon to Marseille; it may be seen for more than a mile, in coming from Montdragon. It is sixty feet high, and sixty in breadth, in the form of a parallelogram, pierced with three arches, that in the middle, designed for carriages to pass, is larger and higher than the others; on each side of die arches are fiuted corinthian pillars ; the middle ones, which form the sides of the grand arch, support a triangular pediment, above which is an attic, crowned with a beautiful cornice. The north front must be the principal, as it serves as an entrance to the city : it is this side, which is in the best state of preservation ; though of four columns there now remain but three, and the base of the fourth. The bas-relief on the attic, represents a combat be- tween foot and horse soldiers ; but it is impossible to distii)gTii.-Ji the place of action, or the subject of the battle. To the left of this bas-relief, are implements of sacrifice. The trophies, which are on the two sides of the pediment, are almost entirely composed of marine subjects, such as the prows of ships, anchors, PN0l2 KAI kAmEINEYTAIe KAPI TH IEpOAOYAEIA AnE ©HKEN EH ArA©P ** In memory of benefits received, this inscription was places" here tpr the health of Marcus Aurelius Severus Alexandc' august, pious, and happy, and of Julia ^lammfea Augu^‘ . mother of Augustus, in honor of the God Sol, of the great Serapis, and of other divinities, worshipped in the same temple, by Marcus Aurelius Heron Edituus of the temple of Serapis near the port, when Largeiiius Vitalius was arch priest, and Camin- cuta, and Aurelius Phoebus, with Salenius Theoditus, sacred chanters, and Caminciites; and by Charite, priestess of the temple, who has joined in this inscription, in gratitude, also for beiielits received.’^ The following inscription was found on the road to Toulon, about a mile from Aix, in the* month of August, 1804. It is on a square stone, surmounted with a triangular pediment, on the ^ 9 ^ MIlLIn’s travels in FRiiNCE. % top of which is a shell in relief, cut in the stone. The letters aie iinelj formed. M. CAELIO FLORO ' Inni VIR AVG CAEIJAE RESTITVTAE M VERECVA^DO ERATRI : FLORA CAELIVS' CLEMENS PATRONVS lo Marcus Collins Florus^ Sextuinvir of Augustus; To Coelia Restituta^ mother of Florus; 'Fo Verecuiidiis, his brother; To Mora his sister; Coelius Clemens, their patron, has erected this monument. Since our departure, there has been added to these monuments a small statue, which was found at Coiiit, in the territory of Roques, at the distance of three leagues from Aix. The head and the arms are warititsg ; it is in a sitting posture. This figure, which is of clumsy workmanship, has a medallion hanging to the neck : it appears to be of the third or fourth century. M. de Saint-Vincens conducted us, the next day, to a handsome country bouse, near the gates of the city. It belongs to Madam de Saint-Vincens. It is a pleasant retreat, shaded by some fine old trees. We there passed a delightful day, in the midst of a select and agreeable society. This house belonged to the president Mazauques, grand- uncle to Madame de Saint-Vincens. We played at bowls, the favourite exercise o f the inhabitants of the south, under the trees which he had planted. His portrait ornaments the principal room. It would have been singular to be in the city of Aix without enjoyiiig the pleasure of the baths, to which it owes its celebrity. M e went thither on the following day. These baths are' sery pleasant. The profits are appropriated to the support of the hospital, to which they belong. It is not surprising that the Romans settled in this place. Aix was successively taken and destroyed by the Bourguig- nons, the Visigoths, the Saracens, and the Norinaris. It began to acquire some importance, when it became the usual residence of the Counts. It is impossible to enter into the city of Aix, without washing to partake of the pleasure of its baths, to which the place owe^ its name. We, therefore, went to them the day after our arrival. DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY OF AlX 193 mul found them extremely agreeable. The profits derived from them go to the support of the hospital, to which they belong. It is not astonishing that the salubrity of these waters induced the Romans to take up their residence here. The Salyes, a Ligu- rian nation, formerly occupied this country, and the plain on which Aix is situated, appears to have been their principal quarter. CHAP.™XXVlil. CITY OF AIX HOTEL OF M. d’aLBERTAS ALABASTER TJRN—PICTURES O F M . S A LLl ER — RARE BOOKS — CECCO D’ASCOLI FABLES OF YSOPET AND d’aMONET, &C.— CABINET OF M. MAGNAN. Aix, though not large, is an extremely handsome city: most of the houses are built of a yellowish stone, while the fronts of some of them are covered with plaster of Paris of the same colour. Besides the court hotels, tliere are others extremely elegant in the adjacent streets ; of these the most conspicuous is tkiat of M. d’Albertas. This gentleman is the son of the first president of that name, a respectable magistrate, whose death was so tragical and unfortunate. M. d’Albcrtas de\T)tes Ins whole time to the education of his two sons, very interesting and studious youths, who learn each day, by his example, how to render themselves illustrious by the practice of benevolence and other amiable virtues. His hotel is magnificent; the great gallery of which contain? several paintings, chiefly from the modern French school. He permitted me to delineate, in his cabinet, a superb antique urn of alabaster, which is extremely valuable, whether we consider its workmanship, its size, or its perfect state. He has also in his possession another, about one foot in diameter, upon which are engraven characters aflinned to be Phenician, but evidently very unskilfully counterfeited. This is likewise the case with an intaglio, in the possession of M. de Saizien, in which the cha- racters, said to be Phenician, are equally fictitious. We also visited the cabinet of M. Sallien, then mayor of Aix, by the citizens of which he is much respected, on account of his amiable and conciliating manners. He moreover possesses a magnificent shield, the inner sui face of which is adorned with beautiful paintings, executed, in the opinion of the author, by MiLLTN.] B b 194 MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE^ Jean d’Udine, one of Raphael’s pupils. He has also a beauti- ful antique head, the nose of which, unfortunately having been broken off, has been supplied by some unskilful artist; some modej n engraved stones ; a collection of paintings, among which we observed the inside of a church, the production of an obscure I'lemish painter ; and a painting of Michael Angelo Caravage, of which there exists an engraving by Coelmans. M. Pontier, librarian, had caused several rare books and manuscripts to be removed lo the house of M. Henrici, printer, which he was anxious we should see, and which we employed several hours in examining. The most curious among this col- lection were Aide’s edition of Dante, in 8vo. 1502. A manu- script of the bible in a ^ ery .small size, written on leaves of ox- gut, or, at least, on very thin fine vellum ; and an edition of 1476, in 8vo. or very small 4to. of a work entitled, Libro del elarissimo Jilosofo Ciccho Esculano dicto Lacerha. This work is extremely scarce, according to the Abbe Denis ; the only copy extant being in the imperial library at Vienna. At the head of the first page is written, Incommentia ilprima libro del cla~ rksimo philosojo Ciecho Esculano dicto Lacerha. 'I'he conclu- sion in the last leaf runs thus : Eintse il libro de Ciecho Esculano dicto Lacerha, hnpresso nel almapatria de Venesia per maistro Fhilipo de Piero ne gli ani del ISICCCCLXX VI . The real name of Ciecho Esculano, [Cecco d’Ascoli,) is Francesco di Stabili : Cecco is a diminutive of Francesco, so that Bayle was incorrect when he termed him Cicchus. This wonderful man was born at Ascoli in 1257 ; he cultivated poetry, theology, geometry, and physics. He spent some time under the care of pope John XXH. at Avignon, and only returned to Italy after having been several times prosecuted and pardoned, on an accusation of magic; he was at last burnt in 1327, at which period he had attained the age of seventy. His poem on physics is full of errors, but it affords a curious document to those who delight to trace the history of science. This copy is extremely scarce. \V"e also saw a manuscript on vellum, in 8vo. with vignettes, entitled, Fables Eysopet et Eamonet, moralisees en J^atin et en Ponian^, a Thomieur deJeane de Boiirgoigne, royne de France, femme da roi Fhelipes Lelong, qui regnoit Can 1316. Ysopet is Esop ; and by Amonet is evidently intended Avienus, which ought to have been translated Avienet or Avionet; and it ap- pears highly probable, that the mistake has originated from some ignorant copyist having united the three legs of the vi or ui, thus converting them into an m; thence introducing the name Amonet, There exists a manuscript of these fables in the CABINET OF M. MAONAN. 195 library of Francis I. but which has been so much injured by damp as to rendor the present copy a great acquisition. Tlie prologue is entirely wanting. At the end of the fablv^s are two other pieces, but of so trifling a nature as not to deserve particu- lar notice. From hence we proceeded to the house of M. Magnan de la Roquette, who possesses a valuable cabinet of pictures and engravings. We remarked, in particular, an antique Torse of Paros marble, found in 17b’0, in the vicinity of 'the tri- umphal arch of Saint-Remy, entwdned by a vine : this Trose has been formed by the chisel, but left in an unfinished state, as there remains on each side a portion of the marble, projecting about an inch from the surface of the body. ]51- Magnan’s cabinet is also enriched by a collection of well engraved stones, in the number of which we noticed a beautiful scarab, and a small Cameo of Hope on Sardonyx, such as she is represented on medals. This same amateur is also in possession of tw o works of Puget ; the one is a sketch, in baked earth, about one foot in height, of Milon of Crotona, which is in the gardens of Versailles; the other is a model of an equestrian statue, w'hich it was in contemplation to erect at Marseilles, in commemoration of Louis XIV. M. Magnan also shewed us some modern marble busts, copied from antiques; cups of jaspar and of agate; a head of a young girl, whose look and mein are expressive of great modesty ; a table in mosaic ; and a comic mask in marble, in a state of ex- cellent preservation. I had nearly forgotten to mention the etymology of the name of Orbitello, given to the principal street of Aix, where I lodged. Cardinal Mazarin, brother to the celebrated minister of the same name, was archbishop of Aix in l64d, at which period the building of this street was commenced. As the pre- late w as proceeding in procession to lay the foundation stone of the city gate, at the extremity of this street, a mine was sprung in the neighbouring rocks, on wFich the archbishop, the clergy, and all the spectators took to flight. The people said on this, that the expedition had failed like that of Orbitello in Italy, of which the father of the cardinal had been forced to raise the siege; and from this time the name of Orbitello was bestowed on lliis street and the adjoining quarter of the city. B b ^ C 106 ) CHAP. XXIX. SA1NT-SA13 VEUR — STEEPLE — THE GREAT G ATE— G ATES-.--. PA PTISTERA"— TOMBS OF S. MITRE ANCIENT SARCO-? PHAGI LION DEVOURING AN INFANT TOMBS OF CHARLES 111. — GASPAR DE VlNS PEIRESC EPITAPH ON ADJUTOR — INSCRIPTION GN S. ^ASILE VISIT TQ THOLONfeT. metropolitan church of Saint-Sauveur next attracted our attention. Tlie steeple, which we perceived from a di.stance, is in a very good style of simple architecture ; upon a solid square basement is erected a round tower with long windows in ogive, which imparts to it an appearance of lightness and elegance. It was built in 1340. The great gate was begun in 1476, and is con- structed of square white stones brought from Calissane : it was not tinished till 1494. We here behold some traces of the revival of the arts ; the drapery of t]ie figures is heavy, and their attitudes aw kward ; but the heads, which no longer exist, had a certain degree of expression. In front of the gate was a groupe representing the traiishguration ; Elias was in the habit of a Carmelite. The ogive is decorated with two row's of small figures, representing choirs of angels, the patriarchs, and the prophets. Near the transfiguration w'ere the apostles, as large as life, as w’ell as Saint Maximin, Sainte Madeleine, S. Louis, bishop of Toulouse, S. Sidoiiie, and S. Mitre, all patrons of this pro^ vincc ; all these images have been overturned, and those of the ogive mutilated. The gates are a valuable monument in the history of art; it was long conceived that they were of cedar, but it is now found that they are of walnut-wood. They have been executed about 1.504 ; and it is presumable that the sculpture is intended to re- present some know n personages, whose names w'ere inscribed on the rolls that they held in their hands, but have been eifaced by time. The habits of the females, as well as those of the men, CHURCH OF SAINT-SAUVEUR. 197 especially tlie covering of the legs and feet, indicate the fashion which prevailed toward the end of the XV. century. Each gate is divided into two large pannels ; the figures are executed with great delicacy. Those above are divided into three com- partments, lengthwise, each containing two figures, which make twelve in the whole. The inferior pannels are only divided into two, each of which contains a single figure, making four in all. The figures are placed in niches, supported by Corinthian pillars, surmounted by spires, or covered by liglit and very elegant arches. The middle pillar, which separates the two large figures, is surmounted with a Corinthian capital, and covered with painted figures in the Italian fashion, and which were extremely prevalent about the revival of the arts ; these paintings are extremely elegant. The leaves, fruit, and animals which form the common frame, aro also finished with the greatest care. These gates are concealed by shutters, which are only removed on grand festivals in order to gratify the curiosity of strangers. Had such precautions been taken at a more early period, these monuments of the arts might have been much more entire at the present day. This church was built at different periods, from the XII. to the XVI. century. ' One of the greatest ornaments of this edifice is the Bap- tistery, which has existed since the XIV. century, and was rebuilt in the XVI. Of the eight columns by whicli it is sup- ported, six are of very cornmon marble, and the two others are of French granite, and not Oriental granite, as has been erro- neously supposed. As these columns are of an unequal height, their basements are also of different dimensions. Each of them is formed of a single block, with the exception of one of the granitic columns. The principal pulpit is supported by a modern amphora of the same marble as the columns. The cornice of the altar of Saint- Mitre, behind the great altar, is ornamented by a Christian tomb, which appears to be composed of two pieces ; wc observe in the midst Jesus Christ; he is placed on a mountain, symbolical of the duration of his church, and represented as announcing the word of God to the twelve apostles, as at one of those times betwetai his resurrection and ascension, when he appeared to re-animate the faith of his disciples, to direct their zeal, to teach them the way to preach, throughout the earth, the doctrine of the gospel, and to disse- minate the glory of his name. A man and a woman are at his leet ; the womaja covered with a veil, is the Virgin Marv ; and the man who accompanies her is Joseph, her spouse. Each of Christ’s disciples is represented before an arcade MILLIN S TRAVELS IN FRANCE. I OS formed in a wail biiiitof square stones. These twelve arcades are emblematical of the tv\ elve gates of the celestial Jerusalem, into which it is impossible to enter without believing in Jesus Christ. The disciples of our Saviour, animated by the energy of his discourse, appear transpoited wdth divine enthusiasm. Their hands are raised as in token of inspiration, and to in- dicate that lliey are ready to propagate the holy gospel through- out tiie wo] Id. The sarcophagi of the pagans are frequently surmounted with a species of frieze, of whicli ih: r .bjecis sometimes have a rela- tion, and sometimes not, with the principal bas-relief. The Christian sculptors appear to have adopted the same practice; on the frieze of the tomb of which we are speaking, several angels are represented, bolding in their hands the crown of glory, reserved for those who propagate the divine law, and become martyrs to their faith. Similar figures of angels are found on several monuments of the primitive church; the fiist idea of them had, doubtless, been suggested by the description of the wings of the clierubims, with which the ark was ornamented. Every individual, according to the psalmist, has a guarc'iiaii angel who watches^ over his safety ; and the Christians, imbued with this opinion, represented their angels like the genii of the pagans. At the extremity of the frieze, we observe the figures of men, probably shepherds reclining near their flocks, in order to indicate the repose which is enjoyed by the Christians in the bosom of their God. The extremities of the sarcophagus are decorated with human heads, in the same manner as those of the pagans are ornamented by heads of Medusa and masks, in order to keep at a distance evil spirits. Some remains of the gilding, with wliicli this tomb had been entirely covered, are still visible. It is supposed to be the tomb of S. Mitre, and it is to this tradition that its preservation is imputable. 'This tomb is supported by granitic columns. On the table is represented the martyrdom of S. Milre, wdiich is interesting, as it exhibits a facade of the palace of justice and that of the archbishop at the time the chapel was built, S. Mitre was a fine-dresser, and suffered death in the fifth century, by order of his master Arien. This tomb had been erected in the ancient cathedral, and was transferred to Saint-Sauveur along with the body of S. Mitre in 1383. Upon the pavement of this chapel are two epitaphs ; the one upon Aimon Nicolai, archbishop of Aix, who closed a well- spent life in 1443 ; the other on Jaques de la Roque, who founded the Hotel-Dieu in 1519: their figures are engraved on their tombs. 19D TOMBS OF CHARLES i;i. 8CC. SCC. Ill the sanctuary, to the right of the great altar, are the figure of two lions, of marble, devouring some children. King Rene had placed them under his throne, in order to recal the recollec- tion of those princes who had invaded his estates, and who m ere suspected of having accellerated the death of Jean ile Culabrc, his son, and Nicholas d’ Anjou, his grandson. These groujies appear to have belonged to some tomb, and to have been executed about the period at wliich the arts began to de- cline. Before the revolution this sanctuary contained two tombs, well worthy of attention; that of Charles HI. last count of Provence, who died in 1481 ; and that which theleagers raised in honour of Caspar Garde, baron de Yins, tlieir chief, wlio died at the siege of Grasse in 1589* These monuments shall be more particu- larly considered in the subsequent chapter : that of baron de Vins has bei^m entirely destroyed, and is now replaced, with great propriety, by that which M. de Saint-Viuceiis has consecrated to the memory ^f the immortal Peiresc. The late president of Saint- Viucens repeated with com- placency, that the most flattering eulogium that had ever been addressed to him, and that wdiich he valued most, was contained in a letter from the Abbe Barthelemy, who said : In raisinfj^ a monument to FeiresCj you have cancelled the debt of the pre- ceding century. In fact, among the learned provencals, no one has acquired a better right than Peirese to the gratitude of his country. Yet, though he died at Aix in the midst of his family, he had beeu consigned to the sepulchre of his fathers, unless his nephew and heir, baron de Riuns, had conceived the idea of ercctins: for him a tomb. Several persons were anxious to concur in this undertaking. Gafarel, the secretary and friend of Peiresc, executed a bust of this learned man from a mould taken after his death. The learned Rigault bad begun his epitaph, but osving to the baron de Rians remaiuiiig at Paris, this mausoleum was never executed. The bust of l^eiresc afterwards fell into the hands of Saint- Vinceus, who placed it on a monument of white marble, which he raised to the memory of this great man in tlie Domicaii church of Aix, on the spot where his ashes repose. This monument was erected in 1778. In 1794 , so fatal to the public monuments, this tomb of the friend of letters, of the benefactor of Provence, and of humauiiv, was swept away; fortunately, however, it was not totally de- iitroyed; and the remains of it having been preserved by liia 200 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN TRANCE. friends, M. de Saint-VincenS; the son of the president, has caused it to be repaired. On the most elevated part of the monument is placed the bust of Peiresc, in a medallion in demi-relief, supported by a pediment. The following epitaph is inscribed underneath, sur- rounded by a drapery, and terminated by an escutcheon : HlC SITVS" " NIC. CL. FABRI PElRESCiVS AQVENSIS SENATOR CHRISTIANAM RESVRRECTIONEM EXPECTANS RECONDITISSIMOS ANTIQVARI/E SVPELLECTI.LIS THESAVROS SAG AGITATE CONSILIO LIBERALITATE CVNCTIS ORBE TOTO DISCIPLINARVM STVDIOSIS APERVTT DOCTISSIMIS VNDE PROFICERENT S.EPE MONSTRAVIT MIRA BEATITATE FELIX SECVLO SATIS RIXOSO NOTISSIMVS SINE QVERELA VIXIT VIIL CAL. IVL. ANN. MDCXXXVII ^TATIS SYM LVII OPTIMO ViRO BONOS OMNES BENE ADPRECARI DECET. On the escutcheon underneath is inscribed the following lines : I IVLIVS FR. PAVLVS FAVRiS DE S. VINCENS * POSVIT ANN. MDCCLXXVIII. On the column. VBl GASPARDVS GVARDA VINCIVS FEDERATORVM IN PROVINCIA SECVLO XV] X PREFECTVS IBI NVNCMONVMENTVM PEIRESCIO DICATVM QYOD PENE DIRVTVM RESTITVIT IVLII FR. PAVLI FILIVS ET IN HANC BASILICAM EX A^DIBVS S. DO- MINICI TRANSFERRI CVRAVIT ANN. POST PEIRESCII MORTEM CLXVI. CHARACTEE OF PfilRESC. 201 The name of Pei-esc must ever be dear to the French. No one ever rendered greater service to letters than this learned man. He encouraged authors ; he furnished them with memoirs and materials ; he expended iiis revenues in purchasing or ob- taining copies of the most rare and useful manuscripts, which he liberally communicated to the learned of all nations. His correspondents were diffused over every part of the habitable globe. Experimental philosophy, the wonders of nature, the pro- ductions of art, antiquities, history, and language, were equally the objects of his study. Peiresc, said Thomas, in affording a generous protection to the sciences and to learned men, affords an example not only to princes, but to the multitude of citizens, wlio squander their riches on buildings, on horses, and on every kind of superfluity ; who torture nature, who build in order to puli down, and jjidl down in order to build ; who corrupt themselves in corrupting a nation. Peiresc, though less rich, knew how to employ his riches with dignity; so that he was equally celebrated for his munifi- cence as for Ins knowledge. In the nave of Saint-Sacrement, near the small obscure chapel, previous to the revolution, was an epitaph on Adjutar, a public penitent, who died under the consulate of Anaslase in 497. H!C IN PACE QVIESCIT ADIVTOR QVl POST ACCEPTAM PCENITENTIAM MiGRAVIT AD DOMINVM ANN. LXV MENSES Vll DIES XV DEPOSITVS S. D. IV KAL lANVARIAS ANASTASIO V. C. CONSVLE. It is to be hoped that this Inscription, will be replaced in its former situation. Opposite to this first epitaph, is an inscription, which mentions Basile, bishop of Aix. In the letters of Sidoine Apollinaire there is one addressed to him. Sidoine, wdthout expressly men- tioning the situation of Basile, sufficiently indicates it by men- tioning its distance between Riez, Marseilles, and Arles. This inscription is mutilated. We are ignorant of the exact period at which S. Basile lived ; but he is known to have been employed in negociating the peace with Evaric king of the Goths, in 475. In this nave, besides other inscriptions, are some consecrated to the English, who died at Aix in 17 SO and 1745. HiLLIN's TRAVELS IN FRANCE. With the view of diversifying the objects of our pursuit, M. de Saint-yincens conducted us to Tholonet, to the residence of M. de Gallifet, who permitted any respectable company from Abi to walk in his groiuids, which are extremely beautiful and picturesque. In front of the chateau was a handsome ter- race, planted with beautiful trees beneath vyhich the com- pany dance on Sundays; magnificent alleys afford a delightful shelter from the heat of the meridian sun ; copious and limpid springs, collected in an artificial lake, form numerous cascades, which afterwards glide along with a soothing and murmuring noise over the fields, and are united in one canal. A sterile rock rises in the middle of this rural scene ; and the beautiful habita- iion greatly contributes to augment the interest of tlie picture, of which it constitutes flie basis. Nothing is wanting to the plea- siu e that we experienced in this charming place, but the presence of the proprietor, whose manners are so affable and obliging. In this tei ritory are marble quarries. The marble procured from them is a yellowish breccia, which is termed marble of Tholonet, It takes a very beautiful polish. The houses and churches are decorated with it. It was likewise in the domain of Tholonet that we discovered a beautiful plant of the family of the ranunculi, to which Tour- tiefort has bestowed the name of garidellia nigellastrum, in honour of a celebrated botanist at Aix, who discovered it. CHAP. XXX. ANCIENT IvlAUSOLEA— >TONIJS OF THE COUNTS OF PRO- VENCE — ALPHONSO 11. — INHUMATION OF RAYMOND BERENGER BOUCLIER BEATRIX HIS SPOUSE THE LAST JC DOM ENT— STATUE OF CHARLES II. TOMB OF CHARLES III. — OF BARON DE VINS. Nothing can excite greater interest than the view of regal tombs erected in Gothic temples, which are only penetrated by a melancholy and solemn light. The sentiments w e experience onbeholding ancient and diversified costumes, arms, banners, em- blems, and symbols of piety, powder and valour, infuse into the soul a soothing mveiancholy, which is neither devoid of interest nor charms. He who mourns over the cruelty of fortune con- templates with a kind of satisfaction the nothingness of gran- T0M«9f OF THt COUNTS’ OF PROVENCE. $03 deur : fie reflects on the period when those princes and nobles flourished, whose ashes now repose beneath these tombs ; he investigates their history; he cites them before the tribunal of reason ; he scrutinizes their actions with severity ; he no longer feels appalled by the pomp which surrounds them ; he either adds his own testimony to the praises awarded them, or contra- dicts the flattering epitaphs inscribed upon their tombs. Me delights to pause before the august images of kings who have constituted the happiness of their people ; he cherLshes, with pleasure, the idea that the tyrant stretched beneath the marble cannot again rise up and dictate his sanguinary decrees. How greatly is the soul elevated, when contemplating themausolea of the brave! Who can view those of Montmorency, of Grillon, and of Duguesclin, without emotion He conceives in ima- gination that the warlike trumpet is about to' sound, in order to aw^aken these courageous heroes from the deep of death, and that they are prepared to dart forward under the auspices of the angel of victory. He compassionates the destiny of unfortunate princes; palliates their faults, and pardons their weaknesses. But he despises cow^ardice and detests crimes. The contemplation of these monuments alfords, at the same time, a moral and historical lesson. They bring to oiir recol- lection the manners and customs of former times, and enable us to discover the different state of the Arts. If w e justly regret that the temples have been despoiled of these ornaments, we ought, at least, to endeavour to collect what yet remains of them. The tombs of the counts of Provence, which formerly deco- rated several of the churches of Aix, have been completely de- stroyed, and were never engraven ; their recollection must, there- fore, have been absolutely lost to posterity, had not my learned friend, M. de Saint-Vincens caused them to be delineated. The first of these tombs was in the church of Saint- John. It is divided into three parts ; the facade of that in the middle is surmounted by a pediment adorned with leaves of acanthus, and with three pyramids ; the inner part of this pediment is aiched in ogive, and ornamented with roses supported by saints and angels. At the two lateral extremities are monsters holding in their talons a human skull ; the vaulted arches which suppot t the roses are likevvise decorated with heads at the point wlitue they meet. This facade is supported by pillars formed of man) small columns, the head of which is composed of ivy. On the tomb which is placed beneath this monument, and the border of which is ornamented with acanthus or bears-foot, re- clines a man habited in the dress formerly worn by the Knights c c 'i 204 - millin’s travels in erance. of Saint-John, with his hands joined, and his feet, according to the custom of the times, resting on a dog. It represents the figure of Alphonse 11. count of Provence, who died at Palermo III 1209 . it was his wish that his body should be removed to Aix, and interred in the church of Saint-John. It was this prince who introduced into Provence a taste for poetry, tourna- ments, and chivalry. To the left, in a niche, decorated with pyramids, and sup- ported by isolated columns, the capitals of which are formed of a double row of oak leaves, lies Raymond Berenger IV. son of Alphonso, and the last Count of the house of Barcelona. He is represented standing, and covered with a coat of mail. He is also provided with gauntlets and armour for tlie thighs. A long sw'ord appears suspended to his girdle. He holds in the right hand the golden rose presented' to him in 1244-, by Pope Innocent IV. With the other hand he leans upon a nrassy buckler,^^>sem- bliiig that suspended over Alphonso 11. Raymond Berenger died in 1245. To the right is a nearly similar niche, wliich contains a statue of Beatrix, of Savoy, wife of Raymond. This princess died in 1266 . She appears dressed in along robe, with a crown upon her head, and a species of fiow'er work suspended from the neck. I have already spoken of Beatrix of Savoy, and her august husband. It is delightful to contemplate, under these Gothic niches, the images of those piinces who have been the patrons of literature : Berenger is represented as engaged in a tourna- ment, and Beatrix listening to tiie verses of a troubadour. The small sides of the tomb of Alphonso 11. displays to us more particularly, the elevation of the pyramids, surmounted and ornamented by oak leaves ; under one of the pediments de- corated with leaves of acanthus, we behold the soul of one of the two counts leaving liis coffin, and carried in a sheet, by angels, to the abode of the blessed. An angel, holding a censer, continues to perfume this soul, which is about to be admitted into the presence of God ; and another angel places on his head the crown of immortality. Let us now examine the bas-relief with which the tomb of Alphonso is decorated ; the columns partly conceal it from view, on w'hich account it has been engraved separately with its small sides. The general subject would appear to be the opening of the tomb, and the funeral of Alphonso: the figure, which is in- closed in it, is altogether similar to the one above. The small sides constitute a part of the same subject : it begins with the little side toward the left 5 where we observe four priests, who OF ALPHONSO. , 20.5 testify more or less sensibly the sorrow which afflicts them, on witnessing the mournful ceremony at w hich they assist. The first object which strikes our attention on the great side, is the coffin, wherein reposes the noble count; two Monks ap- pear exerting themselves to support the stone, and endeavour t» prevent it falling till the examination of the objects which it con- tains have been completed. The bishop, who presides at thi^j examination, raises his hand, with the fore linger pointing to- wards heaven, and seems to announce that God is disposed to admit Alphonso among his chosen people ; the form of bis mitre is remarkable. A jolly monk appears attentively listening to the discourse, wdiich the holy bishop pronounces on this occa- sion. Another priest carries the cross ; this funeral ceremony being always sanctified by the token of our redemption. Dur- ing this time, a monk reads a writing, w hich doubtless contains the minutes of this melancholy ceremony ; and he who accom- panies him attends to his reading, as if to aid him in the expla- nation, or to mark that he commits no error. The composition of this part of the bas-relief has been skilfully executed, consi- dering the period at which it was performed. The remainder is not so happily executed. All the figures are upon the same plane; there are monks and priests, who take more or less interest in the action. The first, near the tomb, holds a prayer-book ; the second raises a censer ; the priest who follows is covered with a large hood, fastened with a metal clasp. The bishop, who next succeeds, seems in the attitude of prayer ; behind him stands a knight of Saint John, hold- ing an unfolded roll, displaying a list of the donations made by Alphonso and Raymond to his order. Those wlro come after- wards are two canons, one of whom is seen in the fremt, and the other in the back ground. From the hood of their cloak, depends a bonnet tucked up, and folded round their head. The bas-relief terminates on the small side by a mourner teai ing his hair, and a female mourner kneeling, wrapt in a large veil, and expressing the most dreadful despair. This mansoleum w as finished in 1250; and probably the statue of Beatrix was place therein afteiuvards, since she died only in 1266. This singular bas-relief, is valuable, because it shews the dresses of the bishops, the priests, the canons, &c. such as they wore during the middle of the tliirteenth centiuy. Underneath this vault, above the tomb tiiat incloses .Vlphonso and his son, is suspended the shield of these two princes, which they employed in toui iiaments. 1 1 was fe; ined of wood, cover- ed with thick leather, on which were paiitted with jndcs of gold and guies ; the leather liuviug been iniurcd, it ii.vs been piecc.l £06 MILLIn’s travels in FRANCE* in several places, and on these pieces are painted the arms of Arragon. With what pleasure we contemplate at Bourdeaux^, the sword of Bayard, the worthy chevalier ! The sword and buckler of Francis I. preserved in the hall of the cabinet of antiques, in the imperial library, attract our attention less on account of the great beauty of the workmanship, than from the recollection of the brave and loyal king to whom they belonged. A more appropriate and august decoration could not have been imagined for the tomb we have described, than the shi^^l^ of the generous Counts of Alphonso and Raymond, battered in tour- naments, and cleft to its extremity by the lances. The names of these great men, were not, however, sufficient to protect this re- lic, and it was demolished by those impious individuals, who laid violent hands on the ashes of the dead. The tomb of Beatrix is equally interesting, as the preceding. This princess was the fourth daughter of Raymond, who be- queathed to her his estates of Provence. Louis IX. and Ray- mond VII. Count of Toulouse, disputed with her the succes- sion ; but the difference was terminated by the marriage of Beatrix with Charles I. of Anjou, brother of S. Louis, and king of Sicilly. She died at Nocera in 1277, and earnestly de- sired to be interred at Saint-Jean d’Aix, beside her father and grandfather ; but the pope was obliged to threaten her husband with excommunication, in order to compel him to fulfil the last will of this princess. The vault is supported by several pillars, with capitals formed like the preceding, of two rows of oak leaves ; each edge of the pediment is terminated by a leaf of the same species, and these leaves being elegantly disposed in a single row, form to it a very handsome border. In the midst of the double pediment, is a rose in a crown,* angels which are placed on human heads support a rose. The pyramids are truncated, or rather their bases arc elongated ; that in the middle bears the image of the most high. In his left hand he holds the globe surmounted by a cross, emblematical of the w'orid redeemed by his son, while the right is raised as in the act of pronouncing his terrible judg- ments. He is placed in the clouds, and surrounded by angels and saints; one of them holds in his hand the book of the evangelists, ill order to indicate that there is no salvation to the transgessors of this holy law, and another bears in one hand a balance sym- bolical of the equity with which the Almighty weighs his judg- ineiits and measures the actions of men, and in the other a vase of lustral water, announcing that the mej cyof God in punishing crimes, pardons those Gults which a necessary punheation must, however, expiate. The surrounding angels sound the last trum- OF BAKON BE ViNS. *207 pet, ill order to summon the dead to their last judgment; we be- hold them, on the base of the tomb, in the act of disencumber- ing themselves from the habiliments of the grave ; they appear as if awakening from a long and profound sleep, and the expres- sion of their features is strongly indicative of astonishment and terror. These figures are enclosed in two Gothic frames. Three other similar frames, two of which are upon the bottom of the tomb above the princess, and the third on the small side, to the left of the base, near the last judgment, contains the figures of the twelve ap®stles. Upon the small side to the right, are represented the three sons of Beatrix, who died before her. Under the dome of the canopy is seen two angels, bearing away the soul of the princess, and two others scattering incense over it. Near the same spot, previous to the Revolution, stood a monument to the memory of Charles II. of jAnjou, son of Charles I. and Beatrix, wdio died at Naples, 4th May, ISO^. There is at Aix, besides those already mentioned, the tomb of the last Count of Provence, Charles III. ; son of Charles Count of Maine,, and nephew to King Rene. He died at Marseilles, in 1481. Louis XI. who was left his heir, charged the Grand Senechal Palamede of Forbin to erect this monument to his memory ; the architecture is not, however, either so light or elegant as that of the preceding ; but the epitaph, which al- ludes to the weakiiess of this prince, and the short duration of his reign, is extremely emphatic. Lilia Francorwriy ca^lestia mimera^ Regum, Reliquias veteris Andegaveeque domus, Occuiit iste lapis calataque marmora claudant; Ohruta sicfatis regia scepira jacent, Jerusalem et Siculos, ef, si per fata liceret, A rr agones pot erat nostra tenere man us ; Sed foj'tuna, did 7iostros ne ferret honores, Accelerat mortis tempora dura milii. Qiii legis hoc trisil conscriptum marmore carmen, Die : Tibi sit requies, Carole^ paxque tihi ! M. de Saint-Vincens has preserved the design of the tomb of Caspar Garde Baron de Vins, chief of the Leaguers in Provence, M'ho died before Grasse, to which place he laid seige, on the SOth November !5S9. The front of the tomb is decorated with trophies and figures of valour and religion. The baron, covered wdth his armour, MIL LIN S travels in FRANCE ^OS is kneeling before a, praying desk. This tomb^ which was erected at the expence of the province, has been destroyed, and the spot on Vvdiich it stood is at present occupied by that of Pieresc. The three following inscriptions accompanies it. ASTA, VIATOR, MAGNI VINCIl MARMOU AOEST: PERLEGe! MAGNUS ILLE VINCIUS, SALIORUM OP- riMATUM SPLENDOR, SENATES POPULIQUE SEXTIANJ AMOR DRLICIiEVE, SANCTIORIS fCEDERIS GALLICI APUD SALIOS RXEUCITUS EX S EN ATU S-CON SU LTO PR iEF ECT U S ; TI,ERETICIS, GAL1.1AM POPULARl COGl T A NTiBU S, QUIN- QUIES COLLATIS SIGNIS APUD DIONYSIACUM CELTA- RUM*, COGNATlTTMf, MON C.ONTURSIUM GALLlGANTHJM PICTO NUmJ, ONETIUM A U R ELI A N 0RUM||, PROSTRATIS, ATOUE INGENTl GERMANORITM STRAGE SUE DIVIS PRlNCiPlBUS GALLOGUISIIS FACTA, TAN DEM, QUIN Q UA- GENARIUS PENE, D 0 M FACTJONEM HiERETICAM SOCIA- TAM, DIRA OMNIA, SALIIS MINITANTEM, IN ASPERA JUGIA MONTIUM BELLICA VIRTUTE, SINGULARI PRUDENTli, PARI FELICITATE COMPELLERET, ET GRASSIUM OPPl- DUM SALIORUM** OPPUGN ARET. POST OUARTUM IN EXPEDITIONS RUPELLiE AQUITA- NORUMffj SPONTE UT REGIO PECTORE IN^SUUM DEDU- CRRET TELUM FLAMMEUM EXCEPTUM I QUINTO, PROII dolor! E MCENIBUS IN CEREBRUM EMISSO CONFECTUS, DULCISSIMAM PATRIAM, SUAVISSIMOS LIBEROS, FRANCIS- CUM ET GASPAREM CARISSIMO PARENTE ORBOS, PERPE' TUO LUCTU VOTA FACl ENTES LIQUIT. 1 2. K ALEN D. DE- CEMER. ANNO INSTlT. SALUT. I 689 . BENE MERENTl BENE PRECARE, VIATOR. Upon the lowermost basement of the same musoleum, was the following : NON POTUIT FERRO VJNCl, NON VINCIUS ARTE VINCIRI ; ID M ARTIS, PALL ADIS ISTUD OPE. VINCERE SED FERRO, VlNClRE SED ARTIBUS HOSTES QUOD SUETUS, NOPAEN VINCIUS INDEJTULIT. MULCIBEREM, NE VINCTA FORET, SED VICT A POPOSCIT mors; HINC SULPHUREO VINCIUS IGNE CADIT. * Saint-Denis. -j. Cognac. | Montcontour en Poitou. |j Auneau ea Orleancis. Grasse. La Kochelle. PROCESSIONS OF FhE ANCIENTS. 209 -And above the vault, the following Latin distich was inscribed : SCIRE VELIS QUANTUS FUERIM ! GERMANIA DlCET, DICET ET IxNNUJMERIS GALLIA NOSTRA LOCIS. CHAP. XXXI PROCESSIONS AMONG THE ANCIENTS — CHRISTIAN PRO- CESSIONS— THE FESTIVAL OF 'FHE HOLY SACRAMENT- SI M 1 L A R C EREMON I E S MODIFIED BY CIRCUMSTANCES PROCESSION OF AIX INSTlXyTED BY KING RENE ns MYSTERIES OUSERVATIONS ON ORIGIN AND OBJECT OF THIS FESTIVAL. j^MONG civil and religious institutions, none is perhaps of greater antiquity, or conveys to the mind more interest, than those assemblages of men, termed by the ancients Shews, but which we denominate processions. There is no people, or nation, whose history has been handed down to us, among which this custom is not to be found. The great number of figures which we observe on the walls of the ancient Persepolis,- is composed of -men of a serious mein and air, accompanied fey otliers bearing the instruments of their profession. The au- gust procession of the Panathenaea, so' sacred in the eyes of the inhabitants ’of Attica, is still to be seen upon the frieze of the tem- ple of' Minerva^ at Athens. But each people inijiarts to their religious fesitivals the stamp of their own character. Axmong the Greeks, they w'ere intended to recal to the minds of the citizens, the sacred names of the iirst authors of their civilization, by which they honoured the gods lliemseives, or at least princes sprung fram the blood of the gods. I'he military spirit of the Romans was evident in their manners, customs, lan- guage, and religion ; the warlike Minerva lock precedence of the august Juno, in the piesence of Jupiter. The warlike Salii, when dancing marked the cadence with their swords, by which their sacred breast-plates were made to resound. Among their military ceremonies, the most magniticent were those in which the conquerors caused to be carried before them the spoils taken from the subjugated nations, while the captive kings and their families were chained to their triumphal cars. The processions are numerous iu the Christian worship. It MILLIN.] Dd 210 WILLIn’s travels in FRANCE. ef^pecially during great calatnilies ; such as pestilential maladies, destructive winds, and rains, which destroy the fruits of the earth, that they proceed in procession to irnplore the goodness of the Deity, ^mong these ceremonies, the annual procession, when they solicit the Deity to send refresiiing showers, in order to fecundate the fruits of the earth, is peculiarly affecting ; while that of the festival of the holy sacrament, which is more particularly consecrated to him, is the most solemn. It was instituted to- wards 1264, by Pope Urban IV. Peligious cei emouies depict, for the most part, the character of the nation which celebrates them ; though they are frequently iiiodified by particular circumstances. Thus, in the processions of tlie League, fanaticism armed with cavabines.some turbulent monks. King Rene, a valiant clievalier, raid an enlightened monarch ; a poet, painter, and musician, imparted the stamp of his own en- lightened mind and cultivated taste to every thiiig he undertook ; this was the case with the singular procession w hich he instituted in 1462 . ilene expended a considerable sum on this festival, and after- wards a|)pto|){i-ated a fund for its annual celebration, which met With no opposition, till 1645, when a remonstrance was addressed to Gassendi against tins solemnity. Notwillistanding this and similar complaints, the festival wa» not discontinued. M. de Grimaldi in vain attempted to suppress 'the profane scenes attendant on its celebration ; but the discon- tents of the people forced him to desist.. Like all other religious ceremonies, this festival was abolished during the revolution : but after the concordat, the inhabitants of Aix petitioned for its re-estabiis!iment. This ceremony was, doubtless, more brilliant on its first in- stitution ; at present it is celebrated in the follow ing manner : Tlie n uiiinalion of the lieutenant of the prince of love, of the king of the lawyer’s clerks, and of the abbe of the youth, who are the chiefs of the festival, takes place 011 the Monday of Pentecost : their officers are chosen on Trinity day. The different troops of horse, which make part of the procession, parade througli the city, and assemble in the evening in the square of the Trinity. About seven in the evening of the day preceding the grand procession, tlie officers of the king of the lawyer’s clerks repair ^ to the cathedral, as well as those belonging to the abbe of the city, when they inarch together, through tiie principal streets, to the sound of very lively music. This procession, which is im imitation of a forced march, is termed After viewing the laarch of these officers, who stopped to SINGULAR PROCESSION. S] 1 perform their evolutions before the ladies, we proceederl to the municipality to witness the preparations for t!ie extraordinary ceremony, to which is given tlie appellation of loa gu'd. All those who intend to' assist 'at this ceremony are in- structed in the part they have to perform ; and the diff’ereiJt actors are furnished from the magazines with the habits and attri- butes of the divinities. The distribution of the different parts is an affair of great consequence. A man wliom tliey refused to admit among the number of the devils, gained over his judges by the following repartee : 7ny father has been a devil, my grandfather has been a devil, wherefore then should not I After these preliminaries are gone through, all the gods and goddesses of Olympus are successively called : a butcher’s boy appeared, to fill the part of the chaste Diana, and a large bloated figure performed that of love; the august Juno swore, and the redoubtable Mars was thrown down by Venus, who was pro- voked at being interrupted at her toilette, just as she was smooth- ing down her hair with the end of a caudle. In fact, Olympus appeared to be in as great confusion as when the audacious Titans revolted against Jupiter. It was necessary, however, that the god who reigns in the clouds, should force, by his angry nod, each to assume his proper station : but the horrible gri- mace which the substitute for the master of the gods and meii^ was so truly ludicrous, that it was better calculated to exeke risibility than to make us tremble ; it was precisely similar to the celebrated caricature of Hogarth’s, Comedians in a barn. When the procession began to move, we returned to the house of M. de Saint-Vincens, to see it pass the square, which is the place wdiere it could be best observed. The cavalcade was pre- ceded by jfour officers, or staffsmeii ; over their habits, which were slashed and covered wilh ribbons, w’as thrown a scarf, the colour of w'hich indicated, that they belonged citlier to the abbe of the youth, or the king of the lawyer’s clerks : they were fol- lowed by two torch-bearers ; the police-agents, with their appro- priate badges, the cane and medallion ; and the guaMs of the police. Fame next followed upon a lean horse, w hich was led by one of the toich-bearers. The costume of the goddess was still more ridiculous than the style in wFich she was mounted. It was a yellow robe, through which passed two large goose wings ; she wore round her neck a \Uute rufV, and her bonnet, will) a yellow border, was ornamented w’ith four small wing-s and a piuti’.e. Fifes and drums formed a concert, calculated to please a goddess who delights in noise and uproar, Torcii-bearers announced a new groupe ; all the other groupcs were also accompanied by them. The present was composed D d S ^12 MILLIxN’s travels in FRANCE. of men on foot and on horseback, preceded by a drum and a standard; they were armed with long pikes; on the back of the corsets with which they w'ere clothed, was a golden cross; and the breast was decorated w'ith a similaT ornament. These were the chevaliers of lo 2 i guH, intended to represent the Ciievaliers of the Cross, an order instituted hy King Rene. Drums and hfes next indicated the approach of the duke and duchess of Urbin, mounted on asses. M. Gregoire is of opinion, that this prince, while commanding the troops of the pope, had been beaten, and that his shameful defeat had led them to treat him with an mdignity, which the lapse of tln ee ages Inis not been able to wipe off. But , Frederick, the natural son of Prince Gui Antoine, who succeeded to the sovereignty of Urbiu, by the suffrages of the people, made them forget, by iris valour, his exploits, and his noble qualities, the stain of his birth. FJe was considered as one of the most illustrious warriors of his time; and Raphael de Voltcrre compares him to Phillip of Ma- cedoD. It is true tliat this Duke was beaten, in 1460, by Count Piccinino, who commanded the troops of John of Anjou, son of King Rene: but victory is inconstant; and we can scarcely excuse this good king for thus ridiculing a generous enemy, whom victory had for once abandoned, though success had frequenliy crowned his enterprises. The Duchess, whom King Rene has associated w'itli her spoiase, in this absurd ceremony, is Baptista Sforce, daughter of Alexander Sfcrce, whom the Duke married in 1459, after the death of Gentile Baraccaieonei The Duke, grotesquely habited in yellow and red, w’ore a bonnet surmounted by a ciown, and iieid in his hand a bouquet. The head of the Duchess was loaded with an enormous jreruke ; her crown v\as adorned with green and white plumes, and she was rapidly agitating a large fan. Rene was so much . beloved by his people that they, doubtless, displayed their gaiety by ad- dressing, to these his enemies, the most cutting railleries; even at p>ieser.t they hail the appearance of the asses wdth shouts of laughter. Some chevaliers da guet, next followed, accompanied by trumpets and kettle-drums ; they announced the approach of the laughter-loving god Aioiiius; to his party-coloured garments were attached bells, as w'eil as to his large bonnet; he held in 'one of his hands a mask. Alercury next appeared, with his winged hat and his wand, ac- companied by night. The black clothes of the goddess were Studded With stars, and she held in per hand soporific poppies. A hideous train now’ preceded the gloomy Pluto, and the sable divinities wlioform his frightful court. The first groiipe was com- SINGULAR PROCESSION. 213 posed- of razcassetos, a name given to a parcel of miserable wretches employed to represent the lepers of the scriptures. Their vestments consisted of a fringed apron before, and another b(ihind, to whicli were attached two rows of large bells. One of them held a comb ; another, a brush ; and a third, an enormous pair of bai ber’s scissars : all of them wore a smooth head-stall, and they M’ere incessantly employed in combing, brushing, and shaving the peruke, which was fastened to the head-stall of another razcasseto, who oometimes endeavoured to escape from the hands of his im- portunate barbels. This name is supposed to have originated from the wars between the Razais and Carcistes. But whatever may be the etymology of this apjrellalion, it is certain, tliat the liazcassetos were hideous, and their garments disgusting. _ Moses, the Jewish law-giver, followed these miserable beings ; his forehead was ornamented with two rays of light ; he pointed with a rod to the tables of the law. The high-priest stood by his side, dressed in tlie habit of his order, and wearing the breast-plate : they both endeavoured to lead the Israelites to the w'orship pf .the true God. During this time they wandered however, after idolatry, dancing around the golden calf, which one of them carried above bis head, elevated on the end of a staff : they cried ouhoou onhoou, in token of contempt, w’hen passing before Moses and the High Priest; and another threw into the air a poor cat, which he recovered, in its fall, w ith con- siderable address ; on which account they term this scene the ploif of the cat. . The Israelites w’ere clothed in black mantles, and wore a coarse head-dress with two large protuberances, which rendered it more disgusting. They contemned the wise precepts of their conductor and the venerable pontitf : hell triumphed. The god who reigns in the regions below, Pluto, appeared in Ids sable vestments, studded with flames ; round his neck W’as a black ruff bordered wdth red, and he wore a black and red bonnet in the form of a crown. He carried in his hand the formidable sceptre which makes the spirits of tiie departed tremble, and the key under which he retains them, in order to indicate, as Dante has ob- served, that those who once enter his empire must even renounce Hope. Pluto W’as followed by his spouse, who was habited in a similar costume. The gioouiy Proserpine leaves to her husband his ebon sceptre ; she held in one hand a flambeau, symbolical of the torments that the wicked experience in hell, and in the other a key, indicating that the vigilance slu? exercises is equally strict as that of the god to w horn stie is united. She is accompanied by sable demons. This scene is termed ' M!LL1n’s travels in FRANCE. Ion pichonn juee dels diahiles, or the Uttle sport of the devils^ or the lUtle soul. An infant, in a wlnte waistcoat, and having black legs, held in his hand a large cross ; notwithstamling this holy sign, horned demons, armed with forked sticks, endea- voured to carry it off; but an angel, clothed in white, with goldeii wings, and wliose head was surrounded with a glory, pro- tected it, and received on his back, famished with a thick cushion, the blows intended for his little charge. The soul and he passed" aUernately on each side of the cross, which they held between tliem. At the termination of this pastime, the angel leaped up, in order to testify his joy at having preserved the soul from the evil designs of the wicked. The next groiipe, which was more numerous, is termed the great sport of the devils, or simply the devils. The barbarous Merod, known by his crown, was delivered up to their fury, as a pnnishnient'for his massacre of the innocents; twelve demons, dressed like the former, harrassed him with their forks, which the poor monarch endeavoured to ward off with his sceptre ; he leaped to the right and the left, in such a manner as seemed to giveinnnite delight to the populace. The infernal deities disappeared on the approach of Neptune and Amphitrite. These marine sovereigns were mounted on terrestrial horses; they were clothed in blue habits, and the god held in his hand his formidable trident, while Amphitrite carried two dolphins. Warlike music preceded the bearers of quoits, which are probable intended to recal the game of quoits, so fatal to the beautiful Hyacinth. This music also indicates the approach of a joyous groupe of satyjs and nymphs, clothed in green. The satyrs had breeches covered w ith hair ; a long tail, horns, and long ears, to their little hats,; the nymphs were crowned with roses, and carried verdant branches in their hands; to their habits vrere attached bells. Pan and Syrinx followed on horeback. Syrinx carries a bunch of those reeds which preserved her from the ardent pursuit of the god of the shepherds, when he pursued her even to the banks of Ladon. Pan played on his tiute, the sounds of which recalled to our recollection the meta- morphoses by which she concealed herself from his tender- r,ess : he was clothed in a goats skin and wore on his head a shepherds Irat, ornamented with a plume. A small two-wheeled car, or rather a cart, decorated with grapes and raisins, next approached, iru which was triumph- antly seated the god of tlie vintage. He possessed not the eternal youth, the effeminate and languishing beauty, which characterizes him in the arxieut works of art. This was not the 4 SINGULAR PROCESSION. 215 Bacclius of the Greeks, but a iigm^ resembling that painted on the signs of our inns. His costume was however more decent ; he was habited in a spotted waistcoat, and over hi? shoulders was thrown a panthers skin, in the form of a mantie. A tun formed his throne ; he was armed with a bottle and a gourd, hollowed out in the form of a cup, and he encouraged his attendants to drink with him. Mars closely followed the rosy god, armed with his casque and buckler; as well as Minerva, who held in her hand iier formidable lance, and the head of the insolent Medusa. Centaurs frequently constitute part of the train of Bacchus, on antique monuments; and those which we observed attached to the bodies of horees, who followed him in this procession, we at first mistook for these beings ; but a nearer view con- vinced us that they were only young people, who had tlxcd paste-board horses to their girdles, the trappings of w'hich con- cealed their limbs ; they carried in the hand a small rod, deco- rated with ribbons, and performed their singular evolution^ to a sprightly tune, said to be composed by king Rene. This cavalcade is termed chivcwusfruXf or fringed horses. M. Gregoire is of opinion, that the dance performed with these paste-board horses, is in imitation of an ancient horse dance, which probably was instituted in the age of chivalry, and formed one of, the amusements at court, during the reign of Brantome and Bassompierre. it was prevalent in Spain as late as 177 -^, and is at present not an uncommon spectacle in Franconia. This species of pastime would appear to be very ancient ; it has been revived in Italy on several difiereiit occasions, from a very remote period. We have besides seen sinnlar cavalcades in the sports of Von John of Armenia, termed /c tonrnois, in the Duel of Harlequin, aiid in ail tlie masqueradei of the Carnival, After these pacific divinities followed Mars, Pallas, and their warlike troop. 'The cimste Diana carried licr bow aiH arrov^ s ; at her back hung her quiver, and her bonnet wa? ornamented with the crescent. On that of Apollo was dis- played a sun ; this deity held his lyre in his haiul, from which he drew the most harmonious sounds, and the cock, which is an emblem of the divine art of imparting health to the sick. The queen of Sheba, on her visit to Solomon, formed the next groupe. He executed in her presence a very animated dance. The attendants of the queen carried a silver cup, symbolical of the offerings presented to him by their sovereigns. The king is always clioseii from among the best dancers of ih 215 MltLlN's TEAVELs IN FRANCE. city, and they are obliged to afford a specimen of their talents before their admission. Saturn now appeared in a flesh-coloured habit, and his bonnet surmounted by a sickle ; in his hand he carried a serpent, symbolical of eternity. Sybil, who accompanied him, is crown- ed with a painted tower ; she held in her hand a pine branch. The little dancers and the great dancers preceded the grand car of the master of the gods. Their white vestments were decorated with coloured ribbons. They bore in their hands scapularies, and a small rod ornamented with rose coloured ribbons, which served to mark the cadence of the music to which they danced, and which is said also to be composed by king Rene. The grand four wheeled car, at length approached, drawn by four horses. Jispiter held ,in his hand his tliunder and his' eagle, and Juno her sceptre and her peacock ; both , were crowned with tin. Before them was seated Venus, holding in her hand a bouquet of flowers ; and near to her was Cupid with his bow and arrows, accompanied with the sports, the smiles and the graces. The bottom of the -car was gilded, decorated with box and ivy leaves, and surrounded with lamps and flam- bea!!S. The procession was closed by the Fates : Clotho carried the distaff, Lachesis. the thread, and Atropos the lorniidable scissars. This .numerous cavalcade, attended by an immense crowd, proceeded through the principal streets of the city. Rene would unquestionably have better fulfilled his object, had he contented himself with representing the Pagan divinities alone; but the other groupes appear to have been associated ^yith them for the purpose of swelling tiie procession, and repeating the sports which they vrpre to perform on the following day. King Rene has exhibited, in the organization of this spectacle, the most convinciniig proof of liis paciiic disposition, and the goodness of his heart. In Italy, and more particularly in Spain, these divinities would have been overcome in a terrible encounter, and afterwards bunted and tormented by the devils. Here, on the contrary, they are suflered to exert their empire over the earth during the night ; and on the approach of Aurora they vanish with the shades of nigljt, the emblem of ignorance ; then commences the festival of the creator; it is the triumph of religion, a triumph which has nothing inhuman, nothing sanguinary in its nature, and which announces a god of peace and of iiiercy.- On the follo\ving 'morning, the sound of bells preceded the ceremony. Yesterday the procession began to move at six in SINGULAR PROCESSION. SI/ Uie morning, to day it was near two in the afternoon before it set out. We passed this day at the house of M. d’Albertas, and witnessed the cavalcade from his windows, before which tliey stopped to perform their dilTeient sports. The Pagan divinities are supposed to have fled before the presence of the most high, and therefore did not appear ; their place were supplied by other groupes which made no part of the former procession, and it is them only, I shall here stop to describe particularly. The cavalcade was headed by the Chevaliers of the cross, after which followed Moses and the Israelites, the Lepers, the Queen of Sheba, and the Devils. A new groupe then appeared termed the Bello-Estello, or beautiful star. It is composed of three Magii, each followed by a page, in their way to Bethlelem, guided by the star in the east. The caps of the Magii, w ere in the form of the girdle of a crown, while those of the pages were shaped like a sugar loaf. They all carried a box in the shape of a pyramid, intended to represent the myrrh, frank incense and gold which they were going to present to the Holy Child. ' The little sports of the devils, already noticed, next followed : and after them appeared a groupe, denominated Leis tirapoitns. It was composed of Herod, with a crown on his head, and having a sun upon his breast. He was accompanied by a kettle-drum, a flag, and a fusileer ; the innocents, w ho have no other clothing but a coarse shirt, run about in the greatest terror, setting up the most doleful cries. The king gave the signal, with his sceptre, for the massacre; the drum beat, the flag was agitated, and on the report of the fusee the infants fell to the earth. Moses appeared amongst them, displaying the book of the law; but, why he w'as placed in this situation, it is now impossible to conjecture : near to him w’e observed a kind of school-master, with a book in his hand, intended perhaps, to represent the pedagogue of these children, and who is gene- rally, it should seem, chosen from among the greatest black- guards of the city. This groupe was followed by the fringed horses, and after them, Leis Apotros, the apostles. Judas was at the head of the train, bearing the purse; Saint Paul followed, wdth the great sword in his hand; and afterwards tlie rest of the evangelists, two and two, w ith their appropriate insignia. Formerly Christ used to close the train, habited like a capuchin, and bearing his cross ; but w hen w e saw^ him, he w as cloathed in a long robe. Saint Christoj)her next appeared, and was quickly followed by MILLIN.] E e 21B MILLINGS TRAVELS IS FRANCE. staifsmen, pikemen, aod flag-bearers, gaily dressed in silk, who preceded the approach of the Abbe of the cityy or of the youth, who was clothed in a black habit, and wore a mantle of the same colour ; then appeared the King of the lawyer s clerks, dressed in white, with a mantle of silver cloth ; and lastly, the Lieutenant of the Prince of Love. They saluted the specta- tors, at the windows,, as the procession passed, in the rear of which w'as Death, who brandished his scythe to the right and left, crying hahoou hahoou. There were formerly many other characters introduced into this procession, such as Adam and Eve, Cain and Abel, the sacrifice of Abraham, &c. 8cc. but they have lately been suppressed. The groupe which seemed to aflPord the greatest amusement to the populace, was the troop of Satyrs, in the train ^f Momus, who greeted the multitude with a thousand pleasantries. An unfortunate old miser, a suspicious husband, and a fickle wife, never fail to be designated in verses often malignant, but always artless, since the authors belong, to the uneducated class of the people. A bricklayer, named Belthazar Roman, in l605, and for a long time afterwards, had the direction of these farces. The Consuls allowed him a salary for his compositions ; and those who dreaded his simple, but severe bons mots, purchased his silence. He died in 1645, and was succeeded by his son, Ar- Jiaud Roman, who continued to act as composer of those sports tiir 1660, which being a period of trouble and divisions, several persons of distinction took advantage of this means, to level, their attacks at each other, till the government found it ne- cessary to interfere, and the modern Momus was convicted of high treason. The object of the good King Rene, in the institution of this festival, has given rise to much difference of opinion. M. Gregoire thinks that it is an union of the military exercises of the ancient chevaliers, with religious ceremonies, and some inter- ludes or pantomimes, taken from the sacred writings. This opinion appears, however, to be wholly gratuitous, since it is evident, that they bear not the least resemblance to a tourna- ment ; it should rather seem, that the monarch intended to ex- hibit a grand pantomime during tw^o days, which should repre- sent the fabled festivals of Olympus, during the dark ages, and afterwards the triumph of Religion over Paganism. This vast plan afforded a wide range for the exercise of his poetical taste, in the composition of his religions and profane groupes. ( m ) CHAP. XXXI. MINERALOGICAL CABINET OF THE ELDER M. DE FONS- COLOMBK ENTOMOLOGY OP M. DE FONS-COLOMBE THE YOUNGER HOTEL BUILT BY PUGET TORSE SQUARE OF PREACHERS FO U NT A 1 N^C H U RC H OF SAINT-MAG- 'DELEN ANNUNCIATION ATTRIBUTED TO ALBERT DURER — ARABIC 1 N SCR IPTI O N, 8CC. SINGULAR CALVA- RY POETRY BY RENE'— HIS TASTE FOR LITERATURE AND THE ARTS---PICTUEE OF KING RENE', PAINTED BY HIMSELF THE BURNING BUSH, &C. PASSAGE OF THE RED SEA, ON A CHRISTIAN SARCOPHAGUS. T' HE day of our departure was fixed ; we liad yet, however, many things to examine. We particularly regretted, that it w as not in our power to view’ the valuable collection of insects be- longing to the younger M. de Fons-Colombe. His father had the goodness to shew us his mineralogical cabinet, w hich contains many rare and curious specimens. Among others we remarked a calcareous stone, w'hich had the impression of several small fishes on its surface, about an inch long, and very w ell characterized ; it w as found in a plaster quarry near Aix. We saw, in the saloon, a picture by Puget, in which this celebrated artist has represented himself, his wdfe, and his son, under the allegory of the holy family. The third son of M. de Fons-Colombe, who^ though still very young, has delivered himself up to the study of antiquities and medals, accompanied us. On our return, he led us past die hotel, formerly occupied by the Marquis of Argens; the facade of which is finished in a very good style. This liotel \vas built from a design of Puget; who, like Michael Angelo, was a sculptor, painter, and architect. In the house, appropriated to the secondary school, there is v school for teaching the art of designing under the superintendance of M. Clairian: here we were shown a beautiful antique tor^ £ c <2 220 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. of a small Fauna, or J'ather a young Bacchus of Paros marble. This torse was found near Salon, and the vase on which it stands is of the same block. In the square of the Preachers, opposite the church of Saint Magdalen, there is a fountain, surmounted by an obelisk, in a very beautiful style. On entering this church, we saw a singular pic- ture, which is attributed to Albert Durer; though it is not men- tioned in the list of his numerous works. But, whoever may be the artist, it is in the style of his time, and evidently belongs to the Flemish school. It is the figure of the great Eternal in a cloud ; the Virgin is on her knees; in the ray enlightened by the divine breath, which proceeds from the mouth of the Most High, and enters into the ear of the chaste Mary, is a little infant, which penetrates by this organ. The angel, who an- nounces the blessed effect of the creative spirit, is clothed in red, and furnished wdth two wings. We were extremely anxious to obtain a copy of an Arabic in- scription under the entrance to the house of M . Meiulan ; the difficulty of the characters would have rendered, however, this process extremely tedious ; and, notwithstanding the greatest care and patience, the transcript might, most probably, have proved inaccurate. To obviate these difficulties, we had recourse to a typographi- cal process. After washing the stone, and covering it with printer’s ink, we applit^d over it whetted paper, which, on being withdrawn, bore a very distinct impression of the characters, which appear white on a black ground, when they have been hollowed out, and black on a white ground, when they are in relief. But as the letters are then reversed, they must be read backwards ; on holding up the leaf, however, to the light, they are readily recognised in their proper position. In order to give to the letters the greatest degree of transparency, the paper which is employed, ought to be as little sized as possible. The stone can be afterwards freed from any remains of the ink, by washing it with a solution of pot-ash. This process has been long known in Italy; but it would appear, that its application has been hitherto confined to taking impressions of inscriptions executed on bronze tables. Leibnitz saw, in the possession of M. Fabretti, a copy of the Fables of Eugubines, taken in this manner ^ ; and he expresses, in his ^ Bernardt Baldi lihrum de Tabula Eugubina legi olim, notavigue fum exp Heat io lies vocabulorum ex Unguis orientahbus petere. Mi/ii placuerat §ctppori, Tabulce gualem vidi apud D. Fabrettum^ qtiod ipsa ex Tabula coiore NEW METHOD OF COPYING INSCRIPTIONS. letters, a desire to obtain a similar one M. Marcel, director of the imperial printing-press, when he accompanied the Emperor to Egypt, first thought of applying this process to the purpose of taking off inscriptions from stone; he obtained, in this way, 9. fac simile of the curious inscription of Rosetta, which has since been engraved and published. J also examined, at his house, many other inscriptions, taken in the same maimer. It is evident, that this method possesses many advantages, since it can not only be performed with the greatest ease by a single individual ; but since persons, the least versed in the science of inscriptions, may, by it, obtain copies with the greatest accuracy. The monuments, which recal to our recollection the good King Rene, and his taste for the arts and for poetry, could not fail to excite our warmest interest. We accordingly proceeded to the church of the Augustines, which is at present sliut up, in order to examine a bas-relief, executed by this monarch. Be- hind the great altar is a niche, in which is represented Je«us Christ, ascending to Mount Calvary, assisted by Saint Au- gustine, who wears a mitre, and holds a cross in his hand. The arms of King Rene are seen on the four corners of this sculp- ture. He composed the following verses, which he puts into the mouth of the Saviour : Voyes I’angoissc et dare peine Qne pour vous autres gent humaine J’endure tres-cruelleineiit ; Car sur moi n’y a nerf ne v eine, Qa’en portant cette croix greveine ^ IN ’excite douloureux tourmeat, Quant allant haut Je perds I’halleine, Et le coeur me fault. Taut est plclne Ma chan las de murtrissemeot ; Ainsi in’en vais pitenseincnt Recevoir uiort honteusemciit Pour votre coulpe horde et vaine, nlgro infecta in charta applic'ata fuit cxpressum. New qutC vidi, c/iaractcrcs non satis exprirnunt. Leibnitii Opera, epist. XIII. ad calcem, tom. 1 pag. 37. * * * Optarem impetrari posse ecf i/pumoTahalarinn Eugubi/nirnm. Tobn/as scis esse eeneus, quibus littera reteres, qua: etrusexe cetisenfur, sunt inscu/ptx. Si quis a})iicus Eugubii favere relict, possent tabula' colore aliquo intlci, et ita uno ictu in charta exprimi: tulem ccti/pum illic obtinuit Fabrettus. IhiJ. tpist. XII. tom. I. pag. 31, *^22 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE* Dont condamn^s a damnement Eties perpetuellement, Et est chose toute certaine, Pourquoi te offrir benignement Que il faut mon mal pietamment Si qu’ayes des cieulx le domaine. Several tomb-stones are still to be seen in this church: the most remarkable of which is that of Hugoes, who is styled in his epitaph Backerius. This tomb was erected in 35 14. In the middle of which appears the apparatus for slaughtering cattle. The celebrated painting, executed by King Rene, which still more particularly attracts attention,' was placed in the house of the archbishop : w^e spent a part of the day with this respectable prelate, who loaded us with numberless civilities and acts of kindness : and w^e bad the pleasure of contemplating, at our lei-> sure, this interesting monument. Rene of Anjou, its author, beheld himself af once Duke of Anjou, of Lorraine, and of Bar, King of Naples, and Count of Provence. But tliese states having embroiled him in some vexatious quarrels, he would, doubtless, have been happier had he remained simply, Count of Provence. He did not possess sufficient energy to defend his title to these vast possessions, so distant from each other; so that, notwithstanding his eminent bravery and his military talents, he was compelled to yield up the throne of Naples. Though possessing great courage, he had not sufficient genius, nor a judgment sufficiently strong, to be- come a great monarch; but be merited, as well as John H. Lewis XIL and Henry IV. the name of Good. He partook, with this last Prince, the singular honour of having his name known and revered by the lower classes of his subjects : his me- mory has been cherished by the poor, and the Provencals abvays bestowed on him the appellation of the Good King RenG Nevertheless, the wars in which he was engaged, often com- pelled him to impose on his people heavy taxes; his life was one uninterrupted series of misfortunes ; but he was beneiicent, po- pular, liberal, and just; qualities requisite to render him beloved by the people. If Rene inherited not all the requisites necessary for a sove- reign, he possessed the qualities of an honest man, the frank- ness and bravery of a loyal cavalier. How many individuals would he have rendered happy, had he beea permitted to live peaceably in his little principality ! His mind did not possess sufficient vigour nor energy to conquer events. Ambition held no sway over his heart. He was occupied in painting a partridge, when informed of the loss of the kingdom of Naples, and he I CHARACTER OF KING RENE'.. f'2.5 iliscontlnued not his work. Retiring from the pomp of public life, for v\hich he had no relish, he voluntarily delivered him^:elf up to the charms of social intercourse ; he cultivated the useful sciences, patronised industry, and protected agriculture ; he de- lighted in the cultivation of (lowers, and encouraged the culture of the mulberry tree ; in the northern provinces of France, they are indebted to him for the introduction of the pink and rose of Pi 'ovence, as well as for that of muscadel raisins. Frequently also, he amused his leisure hours by rearing curious and rare birds. He was well versed in a knowledge of the holy scrip- tures, and in theological works ; he studied mathematics, and cultivated poetry and music ; but the art of painting constituted his chief amusement and enjoyment. Many of these produc- tions are still in a state of good preservation. The dawn of the fine arts already began to enlighten Italy, during the 15th century, while other countries still remained buried in a state of the most profound barbarism. Most of the illustrious men, who flourished during the age of Laurence the Magnificent, and Leo X. were known towards the end of this century: it was only duriug the reign of Francis 1. that painting began to make any progress in France. In Provence they pos- sessed many advantages over their neighbours. The residence of the Popes at Avignon, attracted the most celebrated artists to this city, where the arts were cherished, and the darkness w hich surrounded them was gradually dispelled. The celebrated Giotto passed some time at Avignon, in the court of Clement V. who himself possessed some talents for painting. This art, however, did not make a very rapid progress under his auspices, since no work of great merit was produced about this time; but miniature painting was prosecuted with greater success tlian painting on a grand style ; some manuscripts are still preservevl in their library, ornamented with very pleasing vignettes. Rene practised, very commonly, this species of painting, as may be seen by the notices of his books, which have been preserved : there has also been attributed to him other pictures, which are executed in the style of the first Flemish artists, and painted in oil, which renders it probable that he had some connection witij John of Bruges. I'hree works of this kind are particularlv mentioned ; the skeleton belonging to the Celestins, at Avignon ; an ecce homo on canvass, in the house of the Observantins, at Marseilles; and the picture of the descendants of John of Ma- theron, w hich surpasses the two others, not only in its executioii, but in the importance of the subject. This painting decorates the grand altar of the ereat Carnn s, The picture in the middle represents the Burning Buih, 224 MfLLIN^S TRAVELS IN FRANCE. anachronism, not uncommon during this period, Rene has not delineated Deity in the midst of the bush; but the Virgin Mary holding Jesus on her knees. The air of the Virgin is gracious and modest, bother little son is an incorrect design; he holds in his hand a mirror, , vvhich rejects his own image and that of his mother. The bush and the flowers are very well executed, but the flame fails in its eft’ect, being scarcely perceivable, - Under tlie bush, towards the left, we behold Moses, in the act of taking off his shoes, in compliance with the divine injunction, with one hand, while with the other he covers his face, because he cannot support the majesty of the divine presence : his air is indicative of surprise and attention. Before him is the figure of an angel, in conformity to the opinion of some commentators of scriptui e, who aitirra, that God spoke to Moses in the burning bush, through the intervention of an angel ; this messenger of God displays a noble and interesting air; his forehead is bound with a diadem, ornamented with pearls. He carries a golden sceptre in his right hand ; his drapery is richly ornamented with jew els and precious stones, and is fastened with a cameo repre- senting Adam and Eve, near the tree of life, round which is a s rpeiit with a human head, like the agatho dcEmon of the Alex- andrians. Near the Hebrew legislator is a shepherd’s dog, which is painted with much spirit and accuracy : it is represented as watcliing a flock of goats and sheep, w'hich form a very pleasing groupe. The figures are placed in a landscape, illuminated by a setting sun, concealed b^ mountains represented in the horizon; a river, foniung numerous sinuosities, waters this country, w^hich is interspersed with various edifices of different sizes; one branch of it bathes tlie w alls of a city, containing edifices and bridges in the Gothic st le Tlie fore-ground appears studded with plants, one of w hicli is eaten by a snail. . J’his picture is encased in a border, on which are represented the twelve Kings of Judah, seated underneath Gothic arches. In the angles are two figures; the one is kneeling, and presents a French horn; the other holds a lance, and is accompanied with a terrier- dog and two hares. In the other angle, a female sits near an unicorn, which she endeavours to protect from the pur- suits of some hunters. This is, doubtless, a pious allegory. Above the border is a friez, divided into three parts ; the two la- teral ones are filled wfith angels, the greatest number of wdiich are naked, and have their hands joined ; others, apparently older, are cloathed in a tunic ; some of them w ear a hood, and carry a sceptre in their hand ; the younger groupes are covered wfith a cuirass, and armed with heavy armour and a buckler. This ce- lestial army .•'urrouads tie Most High, who is placed in lie PICTURE ATTRIBUTED TO RENE OF ANJOU. 225 midst of them under the figure of a venerable old man, holding in his hand the globe, surmounted by a cross. This picture is covered with shutters, which are not less interesting than the picture itself. That on the right repre- sents King Rene, at an advanced age, and is more valuable, from being an accurate likeness; the eyes display much vivacity, and the whole countenance indicates the goodness and benevolence of his disposition. His long robe of violet-coloured velvet is trimmed with ermine, and his head is covered with a cap of black velvet, the brim of which is turned up. The Prince is not decorated with the Order of the Crescent, which he found- ed in 1448, probably because that institution only lasted twenty years, and was then, suppressed. His prayer-book, orna- mented with clasps, and his crown, are upon the carpet, which is before him ; the King’s escutcheon, quartered with the arms of Sicily, Arragon, Bar, and Lorraine, is embroidered upon this carpet ; below is a spaniel; an animal to which the King must, doubtless, have been much attached, since it has obtained ^le honour of being placed by his side. Behind Rene are the three patron saints of Anjou and Provence. Mai y Magdalen holds a vial, or an alabaster vase, filled with ointments, which she is in the act of pouring over the feet of the Saviour, during his repast with the Pharisees : the head is well executed : she appears covered with a veil, contrary to the custom of most artists, who always repre- sent her with long flaxen hair. St. Anthony is near her, leanings upon a crutch, or rather upon a Grecian cross; under his mantle is perceivable the letter T, worn by the monks of St. Anthony : the face, which does not want expression, is rendered more venerable by a long beard. Before Saint Anthony is Saint Maurice, covered with rich armour ; his helmet, surmounted by a plume of feathers, is ornamented with a cameo of Jesus Christ ; the banner which he holds in his left hand is adorned with rods crossing each other, and terminating in flowers ; his sword is richly ornamented; the head of Saint Anthony is re- flected by the polished armour : over his cuirass the Saint wears a mantle of green silk. On the inside of the shutter four figures are represented. Jane of Laval, second wife of Rene, is, like her husband, in the act of kneeling, with her hands joined, before a crucifix : tiiis lady, whom he espoused in 1455, outlived the monarch, and died in 1498, without issue. Her features, which do not display much beauty, indicate her to be about the age of thirty ; her hair is braided, fastened up under her crown, and adorned widi precious stones ; her long robe, or cotte-hardie, is of piu ple velvet; her surcoat is of white fur, edged with ermine, and MILUN.] F f MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. 226 fastened in front by a chain of pearls and jewels. The arms of Montmorency and of Bretagne are embroidered upon the velvet carpet, which covers her praying-desk. A prayer-book lies open before her. Of t'nree figures that are seen standing, the first represents Saint John the Evangelist, holding his ordinary attribute, a chalice, in the hollow of wiiich appears a M'inged serpent; from the lo}'. of the cup are reflected the fingers of the Saint. Hard by is Saint Catherine, whose head is decorated with a royal diadem. She carries in one hand tlie palm, symbolical of vic- tory, and in the other tlie sword indicativi} of her martyrdom. She is habited in a pelisse of white fur, and a mantle fastened with two clasps. Saint Nicholas, Bishop of Myre, who is near her, with a mitre on his head, is clothed in a surplice and a hood of white damask, the broad welts of which are of flowered velvet; his hands are covered with white gloves, having a ring on almost every finger; wdnle with the one Imnd he gives bis benediction, in the other he carries a cross. The outsides of the shutters are decorated with figures placed in niches. To the right of King Reno, we behold tlie angel Gabriel addressing the Virgin Mary, w ho receives the aritiun- ciatiori of the divine will with humility and modesty. Such is the picture which has been uniformly and without con- tradiction, attributed to Rene ; though it must be confessed, that there are neither initial letters nor any mark whatever to this effect; but it is evidently a production of his time, as well as the portraits w'ith which the shutters are decorated ; and there is no other artist of that day to whom they can be attributed wuth the least appearance of probability. The archbishop had the goodness to sliew' us a prayer-book, w liich had been also iliiiininated by this Prince, who excelled in that Icind of painting. Besides several beautiful prayer-books in the collections of individuals, tliey have preserved in ihe Imperial Library, that whicli was painted for Jane of Laval, his second wife; the letters R. S. are cyphered on ail the pages with nyuch elegance, and the margins are ornamented with devices relative to his two queens. That executed after the death of his first consort, Tsabella of Lorraine, whom he tenderly loved, is a bow with the string broken, having the following motto: ^4rco per lent are, piaga non sana. Rene of Anjou has also decorated with draw'ings another va- luable work, the original of which, as w’cll as several copies, are preserved in the Imperial Library, ft is entitled, Traite c/cs ^n^-res de batailh\o\- Livre dii Tournoi. This work, whicli con- tains the most mteresun^' account of these amuseiueuts^ is DESCRIPTION OF A IX. 227 composed by this Prince, and tlie miniatures wliicli accompafiy it, represent all the ceremonies, and the details of iIjc touriia- nients. They are composed with much taste, and the (iifi’ereut figures evince great expression. After dinner, we proceeded to the garden belonging to the Observatines, where we saw a beautiful Cliristian sarcoj)liagus, whieli had been found in the city of Arles. The bas-reiiefs, ilh whicli it is decorated, are in a very perfect state. They represent the Israelites going out of Egypt, and the brassage of the Ued Sea. Moses is distinguished from the other Jews by his garments; they are clothed in a long tunic, while their legislator wears a large mantle or toga, over a long tunic with sleeves. Moses must have been about forty years of age when he left Egypt, and one hundred and twenty at liis death ; yet he is repre- sented not only here, but in most of the Christian monuments, with a very youthful air, which is, perhaps, intended to charac- terise the power of the Almighty, who had miraculously pre- served both his mind and body from the attacks of old age. What I have related of the city of Aix, sufficiently attests the taste of its inhabitants for literature and the arts. This city has always been celebrated in the history of Provence. The nobility early felt the charm of study : the zeal that the Berengers evinced for poesy ; the patronage they accorded to the JVoubadours; the noble institutions that resulted from it ; the residencoof the Popes at Avignon; that of the C')unts of Provence at Aix; the con- quest of Naples, which produced frequent communications with Italy ; the patronage of Rene ; all contributed to inspire them with a taste for letters. The establishment of the parliament and of the university, tended still farther to improve and confirm it. Several members of the parliament of Aix have been dis- tinguished by their learning and erudition. At their liead was the great Peiresc, a character worthy of imitation. Their condi- tion in life allowed them to pay great attention to the education of their children ; and this noble exam})!e bt'ing very generally followed, learning was, by this means, disseminated throughout all classes of the citizens. Jn Aix vve found several valuable cabinets, well-stt>iTd libra- ries, and rich collections ; these collections have been transmitted from father to son with the lands that he had cultivated, the castle in which he had been born, and the portraits of his ancestors, with which its walls were decorated. No other city, with an equal population as Aix, can boast of possessing more curiosities ©f miture and art, or of having given birth to a greater number MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. of enlightened men. It was the birth-place of Tournefort, of the celebrated Canonist Gilbert, 8cc. 8cc. From the above representation, it must be evident that Aix has suffered more than any other city from the Revolution. The adjoining lands are dry and argillaceous ; they produce very excellent wine and corn, yet not in sufficient abundance to answer the consumption. The crop of olives was, in gene- ral, sufficiently plentiful; but the severe winters of 1788 and 1789? having destroyed a great part of the trees, the produce of the oils, so justly celebrated, is now extremely reduced. The money formeily circulated in this city by the members of the parliament was another resource, which is now totally cut off. Aix might still, however, perhaps recover some of its im- portance; if not by the learning, urbanity, and good taste of the inhabitants, at least by active industry, which would prove an honourable means of w'arding off its approaching impoverishment, it some remedy be not speedily applied. Several manufactures, which have been recently established, evince the truth of this observation. There is at present, in the neighbourhood, six thousand small spindles for spinning cotton. iVl. Tailiapon em- ploys seventy spinners ; and Messrs. Arnaud manufacture tlau- nels, clollis, and different kinds of stuffs, which are remarkable for the goodness of the texture, the uniformity of the mixtures, and the choice of the materials. M. Soulary is proprietor of a manufacture of silk and velvet. Doubtless, many other kinds of manufactures might prosper in this city, since the vicinity of Marseilles affords great facility for the disposal of their com- modities. Our intention was to make the tour of Upper and Lower Provence ; our carriage, however, being found insufficient for this long excursion, we found ourselves compelled to leave it at Aix, and proceeded to Marseilles by the diligence. It set off at five in the morning, and the face of the country was covered with a thick fog. Upon the right, at about a league from the town of Aix, lies Albertas, where there is a hue park, with walks, shaded with beautiful trees. Some pieces of water add to the coolness of this retreat, which is extremely agreeable ; but the traces which still subsist here of the devastations committed during the Revo- lution, filled our rniods with the most melancholy reliections. We changed horses at Pin, which is nearly about half-way on the road ; we perceived around us seven lulls, from which, ac- cording to tradition, this place takes the name of Sepleme. We VISIT TO MARSEILLES. £29 afterwards travelled during half an hour, upon a height, termed La Vista, which is well worthy of the name it bears, as the pros- pect it presented to our view was truly delightful. The eye ex- tended to the right over the Mediterranean ; the sea formed a giilph, animated by an innumerable multitude of barks. It is particularly in the evening, that this picture is beheld in its greatest magnificence ; and it was at this period that we contem- plated it during our second journey to Marseilles, when iheraysof the setting sun, majestically reflected from the surface of the wa- ter, gave it the appearance of being on fire. Before us stood the city, situated at the bottom of an amphitheatre of mountains, which forms a semi-circle ; the surrounding country is covered with small houses and gardens, to the number of rive thousand, so nearly approaching each other as to give the whole the ap- pearance of a city, of which the largest houses are near to the port. It is here where the rich merchants, and even the shop- keepers spend the Saturday evening and Sunday with their families. The dazzling glare of these habitations, which are white- washed all over, forms a striking contrast w ith the pale verdure of the olive and almond trees that surround them. There are a few mulberry trees ; but those which afford timber are unfortu- nately scarce. In descending La Vksta, the perspective changes ; the prospect being confined on each side by a continued wall which borders a range of fields. Such must have been the long walls, w hich Fhemislocles built to join Athens to the Piraeus, 'i^his long ed road is very narrow ; so that carriages find it sometimes difficult to pass each other. We alighted at the gate of Aix to go through the city. This gateway is formed under a conduit, w'hich incessautlv distils drops of water ; so that one must pass through without stopping. Here w’e see an entire new prospect, a w ide and long street, which goes quite through the city ; it has row's of tiees in the middle, like the courts of Aix ; it is said to be half a league in length to the gate of Rome, w'hich vre see at the extremitv. As this street inclines gradually at the centre, like a bow, tlic w hole of it may be seen at once. VVe had scarcely entered the //(i/cZ dcs Jmhassadeur?:, when M. Brack, director of the customs, came to otfor his service, in a manner which I shall ever rememl)cr wath esteem. M. Brack has travelled over all Kurope ; he speaks fluently the laiiguagv-s that are most in use; he sings witli taste,' plays almost ori eu'ry instiument, and makes himself beloved by all who know him, for the pleasantness of his manner, whieh adds to the bnllkmey MILLIN’s travels in FRANCE. S30 of his wit, and gives new charms to his talents : vigilant and just, he never makes a sacrifice of the duties of his situation to liis love of pleasure and of the arts ; he is useful to the goverii- inent which employs him, and esteemed by those whom he commands. It was his advice that determined us to visit Upper and Lower Provence, before we made any stay at Mar- seilles, that we might be on the return at the epoch of the fair of Beaucaire. M. Brack took us to dine at the country house of general Cervoni ; which is very pleasantly situated, and surrounded by fine walks of chesnut trees. This general signalized himself in the army of Italy : and it was his courage that decided the victory at Lodi. We returned at an early hour to Marseilles, to assist at the procession of St. Ferriol : that passes through the grand street, the sides of which are lined with several row^s of seats, occupied by the ladies, all elegantly dressed. On the day of the Fete- IJieUy a procession of the Flost, the noise of the cannon on the ramparts is mingled w'ith the sound of ringing bells ; the guns of the ships answer those on the land, and testify that all unite in the celebration of this solemnity. Such ceremonies and processions w'ere frequent at i\thens, in Asia Minor, and in Greece ; they are also frequent in Pro- vence. Those o: the I'Ae-L/c/i are attended with great prepara- tions and splendor. There is every day a procession, which is more or less followed, according to the extent of the parish, and the w ealth of the people who inhabit it, and this lasts for the whole of the weeL The most magnificent procession at INlar- seilles is that of St. Ferriol. The streets are hung and strew^ed with fiow^ers ; the iiouses decorated with sbeamers to the very tops : and the public way is crossed by cords, on which are suspended numberless flags of various colours. The ships are always dressed with flags and streamers. The procession passes under several arches, hung with boughs, before it stops at the altars or resting-places, which are covered with flowers : every thing concurs to give to this solemnity an air of chearfulness not at all inconsistent with its object, wdiich is to celebrate a festival in honour of the God of the universe. The eye dwells with a religions pleasure on the garlands of beautifn! flow'eis, the green boughs, and the emblem of the divinity, contained in the flags of the procession. Although no longer preceded by the monastic bodies, the attendants are still very numerous ; every gardener carries his wax taper, ornamented witii the most rare and beautiful flowers ; he has also the vege--- PROCESSION OF FETE DIET), 231 tables and fruits with which heaven had blessed his labour, and sometimes he bears some nests of birds. The butchers also make a part of tliis procession, clothed with long tunics, and a hat a la Henri II' . arnu^d with a hatchet or cleaver ; they lead a fat ox dressed with garlands and ribbons, and with gilt horns, like the ox at the carnival : his back is covered with a carpet, on which sits a pretty child, dressed as St. John the Baptist. During the whole week, which precedes the festival, the butchers lead about this animal : they hist take him to the police, where they pay a duty, and then tlieir col- lection begins, which is very productive : every one wishes to have the animal in his house ; and it is a prevailing superstition among the people, that they shall have good luck through- out the year if this beast leaves any trace of his visit, however dirty it may be. Those who love to involve themselves in tlie obscurities of antiquity, think that this custom is derived from the worship of the ox Apis, which w'as brought into Gaul at the time when the Romans, in imitation of their emperor Hadrian, gave themselves up to the Egyptian su[>erstitions. AT, Papon thinks, that it is tlie ox on which they sought to avert the evils which threatened the city ; but it is received and cares- sed, and every one endeavours to attract it to his habitation. It is more probable, that each fraternity willing to exhibit at the solemnity whatever their industry had produced, that w'as most curious or rare, the butchers had a fancy to lead about a well- fatted ox, as the gardeners carried th(3ir earliest fruits. It W'as, perhaps, an afterlhought, to place on the ox die child of a butcher, and to dress him in the costume of St. John. The superstition of attracting it to their homes, arises iiaturallv out of the respect connected w ith any tiling that is supposed to be sacred ; it is also to be recollected, that it is the animal whicii is dedicated to St. Luke. The ox is killed on the day after the festival. The child generally lives but a short time ; ex - hausted by the fatigue which he has suffered, and the caresses which he has received, sickened by the sw'eetmeats with which he has been loaded, he languislics, and often falls a victim. A number of young girls clothed in )vhito, their heads covered with veils, adorned with flowers, and girded with ribbons of a uniform colour, are next in the procession; these are a clioir of vestals, who follow these different representatives of nature, to offer praise to the Supreme Being. Children habited in dilfenait manners, recal the ancient games, called “ Alystei ies.’' Se\eral young women are dressed as nuns ; these are St, Crsula, St. Rosalia, St. Agnes, St. Teresa, ^c. The luuuisomest are clothed as Magdaleus ; with their hair disheveled on their h)vt!v £52 MrLLIN’s TRAVELS IN FRANCE. faces, tliey have been taught to look with an air of contrition on a crucifix, which they hold in the hand : others appear in the habit of those respectable maidens, who devote themselves to the service of the sick. The young boys fill other parts ; such as angels, abbots, monks : among w'hom may be distinguished St. Francis, St. Bruno, St. Anthony, &c- In the midst of shep- herds marches the little St. John, but half covered with a sheep's skin, like the picture of the precursor ; he leads a lamb decked with ribbons, a symbol of the Saviour who offered himself for us, and died for the remission of our sins. The streets are strewed with flowers ; numerous choristers carry baskets full of roses and yellow broom, which they throw, on a given signal, before the host or holy sacrament : they strew some of these on the ladies who sit in rows to see the proces- sion ; these also have baskets of flowers on their knees, which they offer to the host ; they amuse themselves with covering the young virgins and little saints with the flowers. The sweet scents of the roses, the cassia, the jessamine, the orange, and the tuberose, are mingled with the odour of the incense, ’ as it were to ascend together to the throne of the Almighty. Th«, procession proceeds to the port, and it is there that the ceremony presents a sublime character: the people fill the quays ; all the decks are manned with seamen, dressed in their best clothes, that is to say in their blue jackets, their heads un- covered, and their red caps in their hands. All bend the knee to the God of the Universe : the seamen stretch out their hands towards the prelate, who, placed under a canopy, gives the bene- diction : the most profound silence reigns among this immense croud. 7'he benediction received, every one rises instantane- ously ; the bells begin to ring, the music plays, and the whole train tak^s the road to the temple from which they came. The taste for processions is so universal, that this spectacle lasts the whole day, beginning at half past seven in the morning. As soon as it is over, the ladies quit their seats, and run to hear some musical entertainment ; the men go to the orchestra to chat with the female performers, or to applaud the gambols of some favourite dancer. Similar religious ceremonies take place throughout Provence ; they only differ according to the circumstances and riches of the place ; but they have every where the same character. We saw them repeated at Toulon, and at Flieres, although wfi were not there till the seventh and tenth of June, ( £33 ) CHAP. XXXH. DEPARTURE FROM THE PORT — NOTRE DAME — CHATEAU d’iF — PORT MIOU LA CIOTAT BANDOL ROUTE BY LAND — CUGES — VALLIES OF OLIOULLES — OLIOULLES — - GARDENS — COUNTRY SEATS — TOULON. M . BRACK had the goodness to provide us a custom-house boat, and came himself at the break of day to conduct us on board. It was a little sloop, managed by four men. We sailed out of the Port, leaving to the left the fort of N6tre-Dame de la Garde, so. charmingly described by Bauchaumont, and to the right the terrific castle D'lf, fortress and state prison. We coasted along shore, which we could not leave for fear of the English, who often sent vessels close in, when the tide allowed them to ap- proach ; but there are cannon placed at regular distances, and we kept under their protection. A dead calm w'ould not allow us the use of our sail ; three of the sailors rowed, accompany- ing the strokes of the oars with their songs, and the fourth acted as helmsman. Two small port-holes gave us the appearance, without the reality, of being formidable. In about an hour we arrived off Port Miou, which is a creek. We found only one very narrow and shallow en- trance, into which a merchant vessel of any size could hardly venture ; but, as soon as w e got in, we found that this creek formed an elbow, and the vessels are carried into a bay of some length, bordered on each side by pointed rocks. We entered this bay, and w'ent to the end of it. It is difficult to imagine how so large' a fissure could have been made in the chalky rock, wdthout destroying that part which runs along the coast, and which appears like a wall, behind which the vessels are hid. Our mariners related on the subject of this creek, one of those stories so common among seafaring people. A Genoese captain, overtaken by a storm, being at a loss to find a .shelter, W'as shewn this creek of Port Miou by his son, who also advised him to go in. The father w^as at first willing to follow his advice, and steered his vessel accordingly ; but sup- posing it was going to be dashed to piectjs on the rock which faced him, he was seized with terror, aud iu a passion struck MILLIN.] o g MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. 2:^4 his son with an axe, and laid him dead at his feet. But scarcely was the blow given when the vessel, without touching the rock, turned of itself to the right and entered the bay, where it was sheltered from the tempest. The father was, too late, sensible of his error, and threw himself into the sea. We did not land at Cassis, as we intended going thither at our return to Marseilles. We saw some Genoese boats, whose crews were employed in coral fishing. It Avas five o’clock when we doubled a small point called le Bee de-l’Aigle (the Eagle’s Beak), situated in a gulf, at the end of which is La Ciotat ; w'e entered this gulf a short time after the schooner, charged with the protection of the small eVaft w’hich coast along the shore. We made no stay in this town, whither we intended returning with M. Thibaudeau, the prefect of the department. 7'he next day we landed on the coast of the ancient Tauren- tium, where M. Magloise-Oiivier, the mayor of La Ciotat, had the good’^ess to accompany us. As our visit to this place was the object of the excursion planned wdth M. I’hibaudeau, we soon re-embarked at the foot of the rock where the battery is placed, and rowed towards Bandol, having a dead calm all the way. I After doubling the point, which shuts the gulf of La Ciotat, we passed along a chain of steep and pointed rocks, against which the sea breaks with such- violence that we sometimes thought we heard the noise of cannon. We landed at Bandol. This small port is the mart where the wines, the produce of the w est of the department, are shipped for Marseilles and other places. It w'as so calm that onr sail w'as of no use. Cape Side, which we must have doubled, runs a great way put into the sea, and would have given us a long pull. We could not hope to arrive at Toulon before the gates were shut, and we must have passed the night alongside of the frigate, which guards the en- trance ; we therefore determined to go by land, and took such horses as we could find. Never was seen a more whim- sical cavalcade : it consisted of a mule, two horses, and a mare, with each a shabby pack-saddle, and no stirrups. The road from Bandol to Toulon is detestable, but the worst part is that towards Olioulles, the ground is rough, stony, and gterile. The vine is the principal production. At Olioulles we took the great road to Marseilles ; those who come by land pass by Aiibagne and Cuges, and are soon in the department of Var. The road is through a narrow pass, surrounded by peaked mountains ; the most celebrated of these valle)s is called Les Vaux d’Oiloulles : this disagreeable pass, where the traveller is quite scorched by the reflected heat of VALLEY OF OLIOULLES. 235 ' the sun, and where he is in danger of being drowned by the sudden descent of the waters, which in stormy w'ealher rush in torrents, is also infested by robbers. These chalky declivities have not the least appearance of verdure ; the road is very steep and has many windings ; the naked rocks, inaccessible even to the wild goat, seem by their hanging positions to threaten the heads of the travellers, and often deprive them of the sight of the heavens. The ground is strewed with fragments of basaltic rocks, which evince the existence of ancient volcanoes. Every object concurs to augment the liorroi of the place, which might be taken for one of the entrances to the infernal regions. When the traveller comes out of this passage, he soon leaves the rocks behind him, and views fields covered with the pine and the olive ; and meadows enriched with the almond and the fig-tree ; and although the place has still a wild appearance, it seems to be the boundary between Erebus and Elysium. At the mouth of this valley, and the entrance of the beautiful and fertile plain where Toulon is situated, we first perceive OUoulles. The walls are built with fragments of basalt, which gives them a blackish appearance ; but the country is delightful. We there see many of the villas or country houses of the inha- bitants of Toulon, which are in proportion as numerous as those of the Marseillois ; whilst the charming gardens, which meet the sight in every direction, with the delightful scents which perfume the air, give an idea of the mildness of the climate. Orange, lemon, citron, and date -trees, attain the greatest perfection in the open ground; the olive fiourishae in abundance ; and it is to the culture of these trees that the place owes its name. The oils which they produce are not of a very good quality ; but they are very useful for the soap manufacto- ries, of w'hich there are several at Oiioulies. The dried figs of this place are in much esteem. In leaving the town the road is very stony, and fatiguing to travellers ; but we were made amends by the cliearfulncss of tlie landscape by which we were surrounded. We presently came to a hill, from which we had the prospect of fields covered with caper-trees, the open sea, the roadstead of Toulon, with the city and its forts. It was six o’clock when we arrived, and alighted at the hotel de Malte. ( 236 ) CHAP, xxxirr. TOULON^ — ITS SITUATION— DOCK-YARD — HARBOUR — DA- MAGE DONE BY THE ENGLISH — ^NEAPOLITAN DIVERS WORKSHOPS— STORE-HOUSES ARMOURY MODEL ROOM THE BAGNE GALLEY-SLAVES HABITATIONS TREATMENT — LABOUR PU N I SHM ENT— DE S E RTION — necessity of MELIORATING THEIR CONDITION. The valley in which Toulon is situated, is protected on the north side by lofty mountains; the east and west are sheltered by others, not so elevated : it widens towards the south, and forms a plain near three leagues in extent, in the centre of which is the city. Toulon was many times ravaged by the Saracens ; and centu- ries passed away before its advantageous situation was properly estimated. Louis the l^welfth was the first who discovered bow many advantages might be derived from ,so secure an har- bour, and from the finest roadstead in the Mediterranean : he caused a tower to be built at the entrance of the port, which was not finished till the reign of Francis the First. Henry the Fourth enclosed and fortified the city. But it was indebted to the genius of Louis the Fourteenth for the immense works, which are the adniiration of the traveller. It is peculiarly interesting to observe the active industry which reigns in this city, where are seen the colours flying of numerous ships destined to convey merchandizes of every kind to the most remote parts of the globe. Beyond the towers, and the chain which shuts the port, are seen those floating citadels which pro- tect the roadstead, and are always ready, on the first signal, to pursue the daring foe who ventures too near. The strokes of the hammer, the axe, and the crow, attract the attention to the spot where those immense machines are con- structed, with which man pursues his enemy to the extremities of the ocean. The streets are thronged with people, actively busy from morning till night. The galley-slaves are continually^ passing, carrying great beams, cordage, shot ; in short, every thing necessaiy to fit out the ships of war. DESCRIPTION OF TOVLOX. ^rji We had letters for Admiral GaiUheaume, but the Emperor had appointed him to the command of the Brest fleet. M . Christy- Palliere, in the interim, filled the place of maritime prefect : he received us with the greatest politeness, and conducted us himself to view the dock-yard. The gate at the entrance was erected in the year 1738. It is ornamented with detached Doric pillars, with bas-reliefs and marine trophies; and with two figures, Mars and Minerva; between them is a shield or escutcheon, with trophies and horns of plenty. At one of the extremities of the attic, is a winged genius clasping a bundle of laurels ; and at the other, a genius holding a bundle of palms : there are also trophies of in- struments, relative to the sciences. This gate is much ad- mired. The entrance to the dock-yard is constantly shut to keep out crowds of curious people, who would otherwise disturb the workmen; and among whom might be ill-disposed men, or accomplices of the galley-slaves, whose least culpable schemes would be to furnish means of escape. When we had passed the gate, we observed the IndomptablCf which was at that time repairing, and two men of war, and a frigate on the stocks ; these labours are carried on with the most diligent activity ; the shipwrights work night and day, and even on Sundays; the workmen sing their provincial songs, as an accompaniment to the noise of their tools ; the galley-slaves, w'ho are employed in the most laborious works, are distinguished by their costume ; while their piercing cries are mingled with the horrible clanking of their chains. The bason, constructed by the celebrated Grogniard,- above all deserves particular attention. When large ships were built, they w^ere formerly launched by the same means as other vessels ; but the danger attending on launching such enormous fabrics, was incalculable : this incon- venience has been remedied by the construction of a bason, into which the water of the sea is let in to meet the ship, and con- ducts it safe into the harbour. They build or repair ships of the line in this dock ; frigates and vessels of a less size are built on the stocks. \Mien a siiip is finished, it is conducted into the port, to get in her masts, to be rigged and manned, and to get her guns on board. The labours of the port correspond with those in the dock. At the point of the mole is the hulk, which serves to get in the masts. Here the slaves fill the casks for the use of the navy, with fresh water; plljtTs coil the cables ; in auolher place the seamen are setting 238 BIILLTN's travels in FRANCE. up the rigging, and bending the sails. The hum of the bee- hive, and the active industry of the ant, are here brought to our recollection. The English and Spaniards combined, possessed themselves of Toulon, in the year 1793, during the war at the time of the Revolution. The English, when they evacuated, the. port, burnt and sunk several ships ; attempts have been made to raise what- ever of them could be found ; but there are still some carcases, which can only be raised piece-meal, by means of diving, I"orty-four divers have been sent hither from Naples. They are paid five francs per day, besides half the value of whatever they bring up. Much of this is of little worth, because in many parts, the fire has made its.w'ay into the middle of the timbers; wdiich proves, that it burnt for a considerable time under the water. But whatever is of metal may still be of use,' and it is bought at a valuation made in the arsenal, or dock-yard. The masts in the stores are very curious : we saw some which were composed of six trees, dove-tailed together, and bound with iron, by the galley-slaves. One of the largest masts was one hundred and ten feet in length, and between nine and ten in cir- cumference. In one work -shop forty slaves were employed in spinning hemp for the weavers, and for making of ropes and cables. The spindles are all put in motion by one wheel, and are so disposed, that each workman can stop his owui without deranging the labours of bis comrades. They can each spin a pouud of hemp per day ; and thus can earn from four to six sons. The rope-walk is a vaulted room, three hundred and twenty toises in length. They first make a kind of packthread, which is tarred, after which they take the number necessary to make a strong rope ; three of w’hich make a hawser ; and again, three of these make a cable. Near the rope- walk is the sail-maker’s work-shop, where they are always eiiiployed in making, sewing, and mending the sails. The smith’s shop gave us an idea of the cave of the Cyclops : here all the iron necessary for the shipping, is forged and worked, w ith the exception of the cannon, anchors, and coppers. in the foundery the metal flows like the lava of a volcano; and here they cast cannon, and make the sheets to copper the bottoms of the ships, and the nails to fasten them. In the cooperage they are perpetually occupied in shaping the staves, in placing them properly, and in hooping the casks. Fariher on we see the smoking chimneys of the wash-house. VISIT TO THE GALEEY-SLAVES. 239 and feel the heat of the ovens of the hake-house ; this estublish- nient is separated from the others by a small canal ; near this also are the store-houses for tlie corn and flour. ^ The joiner’s, shop exhibits labours no less varied; the nume- rous works which are there performed appear incredible. Hu- manity is affected at the s.iglit of an abundant provision of wooden legs. The work-shop of the carvers is close to that of the joiners; they carve here the ornaments which decorate the head and stern, and some parts of the interior of tlie ships. After visiting the work-shops, we went to see the store- houses. The general magazine for naval stores was burnt by the English ; and now there is only a provisional one. As this is not sufficiently large, there are several others; but they all belong to the principal storehouse. The arsenal contains the cannon, mortars, howitzers, swivels, &c. Sic. lliere are here preserved several ancient pieces of a particular make, which were taken from the enemies of the country. Behind the arsenal is the store-house for sail-cloth and ropes. The small armoury is no longer what it was formerly ; the English pillaged it ; and the continual war which we have had since that time, has obliged us to make use of every thing; all has been employed for the defence of the country ; nothing has been left for parade. The model-room is one of Ihe establishments of the dock- yard, which is most curious, and worthy of pai ticular observa- tion. It gives a perfect idea of the construction of line-of- buttle and other ships. Some workmen belong particularly to this establishment. The model is here first ma'le of every vessel that is built on any new plan. They also make models of those ships belonging to other nations, in which there has been observ- ed any improvement. M. Christy-Palliere expressed a reluctance to visit the Bag?ie (the place where the galley-slaves are conlined) ; a soldier who had faced death in the field of battle, could not bear the sight of so much misery and wretchedness : we felt respect for a sentiment of humanity, so affecting and so noble. We also felt a share of the same reluctance to behold so disgusting a spectacle; but our curiosity got the better of our feelings; we therefore left M. Christy-Palliere ; and his aid-de-cainp had the politeness to accompany us. It was the time when these poor wretches' were leaving «40 MILLINGS TRAVEL* IN FRANCE, work at the dinner hour. Although the convicts have no other clothing than loose pantaloons and a woollen waistcoat, without pockets, and some of them are almost naked, yet they are made to pass every time through an iron gate, one by one^ while two arqousins (men appointed to watch and guard them), examine them from head to foot, and under the arms, to disco- ver whether they have stolen any thing, or concealed about them any of the tools, by means of which they might attempt their escape. But, notwithstanding these precautions, they com- mit some thefts every day ; they conceal, with great address, in the corners of the dock-yard, pieces of copper, or iron, which they have stolen ; and with whatever care they may be watched, and although the workmen of the dock-yard are also searched as they go out, and no one is suffered to enter without permissions, yvhich are very difficult to obtain ; yet these convicts contrive to have communication with persons without, and to convey thither by some means, what they have stolen, for which they receive a share of the produce from their accomplices. We had a particular permission to see the Bagne, and were accompanied by an Aid-de-camp, who introduced us to M. Bel- langer, a commissioner of the navy, who had the charge of the police of the Bagnes, and who shewed us particular attention, and gave us every information that w^e could desire. The galley-slaves are lodged either in large wards, built e:X* pressly for that purpose, which are called Bagnes, or on the old galleys, which have been covered with a roof; there are four others which are painted red, and which resemble wooden barracks. We went to see one of these galleys; it was filled with a com- pany of convicts, who had been there but a week. Each of these companies are called a chauij because on the road hither they are all fastened to one chain, that none of them may escape, and that those who conduct them may guard them more conveniently. These galleys could contain twelve hundred convicts : they are much cleaner than the bagnes, and enjoy a freer circu- lation of the air. Between the two ranges of beds or benches for the slaves, is a long passage ; at the stern is the kitchen, and at the head are two rooms for the overseers ; at the side of each bench is a small square w indow, and a balcony, secured by an iron railing, which goes all round the outside of the galley. Ail these convicts, being so lately arrived, had their heads clean-shaved, their jackets of a bright red, and caps of the same colour, which they held in their hands, and their uniform appearance had a tolerable effect. GALLEY SLAVES. 241 At the entrance of the galley the offensive odour is so very disgusting, that nothing but a strong curiosity could lead any one into such an unwholesome place._ When w'e entered it was their dinner time; and there was a great noise ; but the arguosin, who w^as our conductor, whistled ; at this sound, a terrible rattling of chains was heard for a moment, every one took his station, pulled olf his cap, and there was immediately the most profound silence. The convicts both sit and lie on the wooden benches, which resemble the beds of the corps~de~gorde ^ they are allowed no more room than is sufficient for one man, and several of them are on the same bed or bench ; and they are all fastened to one large ring, by a chain k)ng enough to allow each of them to go from the bench to the post where the ring is fixed, near to which is the trough where every kind of filth is deposited, and where they throw the refuse of their sallads, roots, and other food. It is easy to conceive what deliterious and putrid steams must exhale, particularly during the night, from tliese unhappy men, whose pores are opened by perpetual and habitual labour, and whose dirtiness is without comparison, from these horrible troughs, which, notwithstanding they are emptied and cleaned as often as possible, are continually oft’ensive. These galley-slaves eat, drink, and sleep on the w^ooden beds or benches ; in sliort, they pass all the time here which is not employed in actual labour, with no other covering than dirty rags. Their food, which is given them in wooden bowls, is as disgusting as their habitations : some little addition is made ter their allowance by the trifling produce of their labour, or what they receive from their relatives. At the time of labour they have only the chain which couples two tOi ether ; it is fastened to the uncle of each by means of a large ring, which is riveted on ; the chain is of sufficient length not to impede them iii their work. The ring round the ancle weighs four pounds and a half, and the chain twenty-two pounds. They each curry a portion of it in walking, except wdien they are loaded with heavy burthens. Every part of tlieir clothing is marked with the letters GAL; and the number of each is worn on a plate fastened to their cap. The offences they commit during the time of their detention, are punished w ith great severity. Each argousin is armed with a strong cane ; which is raised on the slightest murmur, or the smallest act of disobedience; and tiie blow always follow’s the menace. One shudders to see our fellow creatures used with so much rigour ; but those who govern them pretend, that without this severity, these men would soon forget to fear them and that millin.] u U 242 millin’s travels in France. the most dangerous tumults might be the consequence. Never- theless, it is probable, that notwithstanding the austere aspect which these terrible guards affect, that money secretly given them, succeeds in relaxing this extreme severity ; and that, by these means, the galley-slaves obtain articles which are pro- hibited, and are able to infringe the regulations. The blows given by the argousin are only for the faults of the moment ; but more serious crimes receive a more severe punish- ment ; those who are guilty remain for a longer or shorter time in the bagne, without being unchained from the post; others are condemned to carry a double ring and double chain ; these punishments are usually preceded by a certain number of lashes, which are inflicted by some of their comrades, who are com- pelled to perform this cruel duty. Notwithstanding every precaution, it is impossible to prevent or foresee every scheme that may occupy the mind of a man whose thoughts are always employed in finding some trick to shake off' an oppressive yoke, and to recover his liberty : and as the important and pressing labours of the dock-yard occasion the convicts to be employed, who, in other times, would be totally confined to the bagne, some of them often find means of de- serting. As soon as the escape is discovered, a cannon gives notice of it, and a small flag is hoisted ; the patroles go on the search through the country and on the roads. The deserters are often retaken ; but they sometimes succeed in escaping their pursuers : but to attain this end, they must be assisted by some one in the city, who procures them an instantaneous asylum, and furnishes them with clothes for a disguise. It is astonishing how these men, without resources, without means, and without character, succeed in making acquaintance, and obtaining protectors in the city. Even in the bagne these men contrive to break the laws of society : they find means to commit forgeries of every kind. A short time before we saw them, there had been forged about three hundred discharges, so perfectly imitated, that even those whose signatures had been counterfeited, could not discover the deception, in the time of the assignats, the convicts imitated them to such perfection, that they often deceived those who were most obserying. If the humane Howard, who spent his life in mitigating the sufferings of mankind in hospitals and prisons, had visited the galleys, his feeling soul would have been agonized. But though it is impossible, even now, to withhold our pity, how much more should w e have felt, w hen these horrible prispns enclosed men, whose crime was only that of killing a hare of a few par- GALLEY SLAVES. 243 tridges, with others who had secretly brought in some casks of prohibited tobacco, or had passed a few pounds of salt from one province to another. It cannot be denied, but that the poach- ers were stealers of game ; and the others were smugglers and defrauders of the duties, which are crimes certainly deserving of punishment, but not to be compared with robbing on the high- way, or breaking into houses. Yet the punishment was similar. At present, the bagne only contains abandoned wretches, more or less daring or hardened in wickedness and depravity ; but, notwithstanding this fact, one must have lost every senti- ment of humanity, to behold, without pity, men reduced to such a degree of abjection and misery. It \vould be possible, without any injury to society, to make some useful regulations to ameliorate the condition of these wretched beings; their crimes have given us the right of sequestrating them from society, but not to put them in a worse condition than the vilest crimi- nals. Besides, the labours to which they are condemned, are already a kind of redemption of the crimes which they have com- mitted ; and both justice and humanity demand, that their habi- tation should be more wholesome, their provisions better, and their treatment not so severe. I have detailed all that is most tenible in the galleys; let us now see what mitigation a proper conduct and repentance can obtain. Formerly, there were some among the convicts, who were permitted to work in the city; this liberty ncfvv is not allowed. Those who are the greatest criminals, and those who are condemned to suffer the greatest number of years, never leave their prison ; but those who, by their good conduct, endeavour to deserve the attention of the officers who are set over them, and wdiose time of confinement is almost expired, are employed either in the wmrks, in the harbour, or dock-yard, in the service of the officers, or in attending the hospital. Those who are admitted into any of the workshops, such as the joiners, the smiths, See. are allowed some payment, according to their work and talents. There are some whose professions may be of use to them- selves in the service of their comrades ; such as the barbers, for example : others make small articles, whicli may be sold in the city. With these resources they procure some addition to their provisions : wine, which costs but a sons the pot, they are allowed to purchase, if iliey do not make an ill use of the per- mission; better covering for their beds, tobacco, sugar, and a number of other things, to make their situation more tolerable. H h 2 244 Millings travels in France. Among those whom the laws condemn to the galleys, there are some, whose offences are of a much lighter complexion than others. When we visited tliem, there was a general, who had given forged discharges to some conscripts ; a hussar, whose life had been irreproachable till he had been prevailed on to erase from a discharge, the name of a soldier to whom it had been given, and who afterwards died, and to substitute the name of a young man, whose friends wished to get him from the military service ; and a lieutenant of the navy, who was guilty of some neglect of orders from his superior officer. There w^ere also men who were born in wdiat is called the upper classes of society, whose polished manners attract more benevo- lence and attention; nevertheless, they are not much deserving of commisseration, because their birth and education ought to have kept them from the commission of such crimes : of this number was a commissioner, w ho had embezzled the money in his hands, and a secretary of the navy, guilty of forgery. In the galleys are also some artists ; there w^as an engraver, a violin player, a clock-maker, and a gold-smith ; there were even poets and jesters, w ho enlivened the society. Many of those who gain the attention or notice of the over- seers, are delivered from their chains : but they must all, without exception, serve a fortnight or three W'Ceks amongst the other convicts. Sometimes they are several months before they obtain more liberty, and then, in the day time, they only wear one fetter on the leg. They are unchained in the morning, and have the chains affixed again in the evening. Some, who are more particularly favoured, do the duties cff servants, in the houses of the officers. ( 245 ) CHAP. XXXIV. •»IS1T ABOAUD A SHIP OF WAR — THE ENGLISH FLEET DESCRIED FROM CAPE CEPE' — VISIT TO FORT MALGUE DINNER ABOARD THE BUCENTAURE FOUNTAINS FISH-MARKET FIELD OF BATTLE QUAYS CARYA- TIDES OF PUGET PORT MARCHAND — COMMERCE MANUFACTURES PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS — NATURAL HISTORY — BO- TANICAL GARDEN — MINERALOGY — ENVIRONS OF TOU- LON TOULONESE. VV E had viewed the port and the arsenal, but as yet could conceive no idea of the imperial marine, and the economy of a ship of war; on which account we were extremely anxious to visit the vessels then lying in the roads. We repaired to the country house of Vice-Admiral Latouche, situated near the harbour. I had known this brave officer at Paris, and besides was furnished with a letter of recommendation to him from General Christy- Palliere. He received us very politely, and engaged us to dine with him the following day, on board his vessel. We accompanied him aboard the Le Formidable^ commanded by Rear-Admiral Dumanoir, to whom I had also the honour of being known. We partook of ices and other refreshments with the officers, after which we were politely conducted to every part of the vessel worthy of examination. Tliough we had fre- quently seen very large merchant’s ships, yet we had formed no conception of the magnitude and perfection of a ship of war, or of the discipline and regularity which prevailed among the crew. With what interest we viewed these brave and laborious men! An old pilot, in the act of teaching a little cabin-boy to read, exhibited so expressive and interesting a picture, that I longed much to have taken a sketch of them. Por some time past a small number of English vessels had t46 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE, every day appeared before the harbour, apparently with the de- sign of inducing our fleet to come out. They had frigates, however, stationed at different distances, ready to make signals to their fleet, so tiiat if the Rear-Admiral had fallen into the snare, and gone in pursuit of these few vessels, he would soon have been attacked by the whole British squadron, which was greatly superior in numbers to his own. While we remained on board, a pilot came to give notice of the approach of the enemy, on which we accompanied the Ad- miral to Cape Cepe, where he went, the better to reconnoitre them. Here we enjoyed a grand spectacle, in beholding, at once, the two hostile squadrons ; that of tlie British, composed of five ships of the line, two frigates, and a great number of small vessels, lay without reach of the fort, while the French remained stationary in the great road. We employed the next day in viewing fort La Malgue, at present termed fort Juhert, from the remains of the general of that name having been here deposited. The Commandant, Lieutenant-Colonel Tonnain, obligingly shewed us every thing worthy of notice in this fort, which is at once intended to serve as a defence to the port, and as a military prison. In the neighbourhood they make a very good red wine, but heady, called wine of La Malgue. The soil of the moun- tain is composed of various coloured schistus. Near the shore the calcareous stones are pierced by Xhepholps dactyhiSj L. which are extremely common on the rocks ; their flesh is tender and de- licate. Taking leave of the Commandant, we repaired on board the ' Admirals vessel to dinner, during which we were entertained by a kind of mock fight. This spectacle gave rise to so many melancholy reflections, by recalling to mind the multiplied dangers to \\hich so many brave men are exposed, that neither the gaiety of the Vice-i\dmiral, nor the hospitable re- ctq3t]on we met with from his officers, could wholly dissipate them. Alas! these sad presentiments were too soon realized ! Vice-Admiral Latouche, it is true, fell a sacrifice to a natural malady, a few months after; but the Bucentaure sunk, after having lost nearly the whole of her crew, during the terrible battle of Trafalgar. The Formidable, and her worthy com- mander, Rear-Admiral Dumanoir, were taken by the enemy; and, in short, there only now remains a very small number of those brave men who had created so much interest in our ndnd. At six in the evening we returned ashore^ in the Admiral’s DESCRIPTION OF TOULON. 247 boat, in order to be present at the exhit)ition of some fire works, in the Jardin des Marrioniers ; w hich, how ever, was post- poned on account of a very high wind. Toulon is one of the handsomest cities in Provence. It is lighted by reverberating lamps; the streets are watered ijy eighty fountains, which are supplied with water from the neighbouring mountains. These waters gush out continual iy, and by their murmuring produce the most agreeable seirsation. The large square is planted with row's of lime trees, which would form a most delightful walk, if it were not occupied by dealers in provisions and old clothes, and if the place of those which perished, had been supplied. Not far distant stands the old episcopal pajace, a very beau- tiful edifice. The fish market forms an oblong square ; its roof is supported by ten columns of the Doric order. From this quarter, there is a road leading to the ancient city, the narrow' and angular streets of which are also watered by fountains, though they are not more clean, on that account, since there is no sew'er. Stagnant and putrid waters corrupt the air, and contaminate every thing in their vicinity. The exercising ground termed Champ de BataillCy where the soldiers perform their evolutions, is a large square. At the extremity of this place stands the hotel of the maritime prefect, built with more ostentation than taste ; on both sides of the square are ranged handsome houses, while the fourth is formed of the w'ails of the arsenal. The in- ciosiire is surrounded by double rows of poplars and various other trees. This square, the ramparts, and the quay, form the principal promenades of the city. Upon the quay is situated the Hotel de Ville, formerly the Hotel des Consuls, the bal- cony of which is supported by two caryatides, by Puget, and which excite the admiration of all foreigners. The interior of the ancient cathedral is in the Gothic, while its front gates are in the modern style. This exhibits one of the incongruities at present too much in fashion. This gate is ornamented with columns of the Corinthian order ; and would appear to great advantage, had it been erected in a ditfereul situ- ation ; but the discordant alliance of the (lotiiic and modern style can never be approved. In this church is a bas-relief, representing the Fternal I'atber, surrounded by a glory, executed by the pupils of Puget, after designs by their iliustnons master. Port IVlarchand has been excavated by the hauu of man, and as all kind of tilth is discharged into it, the city is by this means kept clean, it is smaller by one third than that of Mar- seilles ; but its magnitude is sutHcicut for Toulon, the coiiimerce 24S MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. of nhich is confiBed to a coastmg trade on the shores of France and Italy. The price of land in the city is so exorbitant, as to render it inadmissible to build extensive magazines, and the safety of the place requires that they should not be erected without the walls. The Toulonese find a market for their commodities at Mar- seilles and Genoa ; these chiefly consist of wine, oil, honey, capers, oranges, pomegranates, prunes, almonds, and dried raisins; in return for v\hich they receive the products of the rest of France, Spain, Italy, and the North. The industry of the inhabitants is principally directed towards the Imperial ma- rine, which furnishes them with sufficient employment. Formerly a great quantity of soap was manufactured in Toulon and the neighbourhood. At one time there were no fewer than thirty-two soap-houses, which exported seventy-five thousand quintals ; but this part of their commerce has for some time past gradually diminished ; and, at present, they do not ex- port above forty-five thousand quintals. The traffic carried on in capers and comfits is more important, as they annually dis- pose of about two thousand quintals of each. The fig and orange trees having been much injured during the winter of 1709, these fruits have never since attained to the same size as formerly. They manufacture coarse cloth, and a kind of wool- len stuff pinckinat.. Flat manufactories Avere at one time very numerous ; but this branch of business is now wholly given up. There are several distilleries, some tanneries, 8ic. and a considerable starch manufactory. The wines of Provence are chiefly used in the distilleries. Formerly there was a director, or superintendent, placed by government over these works ; an office, which has been sup- pressed since the revolution. The spirits are of an inferior quality, and this branch of commerce is considerably on the de- cline. Those estaljlishments, appropriated to public instruction at I'oulon, are the Lyceum, the Marine School, and the Naval Medical School. The benevolent institutions consist of the Civil Hospitals, and the Grand Military Hospital. The population of this city varies considerably ; in general it is estimated at twenty-six thousand inhabitants. We enjoyed a superb and delightful spectacle on ascending the tower of the principal church, which commands a view of the shore, the road, the ports, the dock-yavds, and the aisenal, where we beheld a vast multitude of men, all displaying the greatest activity. ENVIRONS OF TOULON. ^^49 An abode at Toulon proves extremely agreeable. Those who are anxious to gain instruction in maritime affairs, will here find their curiosity amply gratified. The promontories, the sea-shore, the neighbouring hills, and indeed the whole of the environs afford the most charming walks, where the mind may deliver itself up to the influence of soothing reflections. The naturalist may here also And important objects of contempla- tion in the fish, the shells, the insects, and in the curious fossils which abound in the calcareous mountains ; while the botanist may enrich his herbarium with various interesting indigenous plants, as well as with many elegant and curious exotics. A great number of these foreign specimens are successfully cul- tivated in private gardens, but chiefly in the botanical gardens, under the direction of M. Martin. In fact, the environs of Toulon, wdiich are extremely picturesque every where, exhibit scenes of gaiety and active industry. CHAP. XXXV. Ai IMPERIAL MARINE DEPARTURE FOR HYERES — PORT- MARCHAND OF TOULON HARBOUR CAPE CEPE LAZA- RETTO THE SABLETTES — FORT BALAGUAY FORT VIG- NETTES — THE TWO BROTHERS, &C. — QUARQUERANE PLAIN OF HYERES HYERES GARDENS OF M. FiLLE AND M. BEAUREGARD NOTRE DAME OF ASSUMPTION - — TOULONESE PEASANTS CAPEAU MARSHES — SALT- PITS — ISLES OF HYERES, &C. T HOUGH the view of a large sea-port presents ideas which elevate the soul, and console us for the w eakness of humanity, yet the mind naturally reverts, in spite of itself, to the must melancholy reflections, on beholding the instruments of death, and the means of destruction, with which we are surrounded. Our imagination soon w andered towards a more tranquil district, a more fortunate shoie, towards those new Hesperides, which furnishes to Gaul the tribute ^f their orangeries. We had a letter from our friend M. Brack to M. Hains, director of the custom-house at Toulon, who readily provided Hs w ith a small bark to convey us to Nice. His son had the Millin.] li 5<50 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. goodness to make tlie necessary pi eparatidn for our little excur- sion ; and on the 10th of June^ the sailors came to conduct us aboard. It was about half after four in the morning when we set sail ; the weather was fine, but it blew a fresh wind, and the sea was a little agitated. The port is of a circular form ; and at its entrance stands the tower, built by Henry IV.; a chain is tlirown across as a secu- rity. To the right is the delightful village of Seyne, forming an amphitheatre with the sea-shore. Several white flags, placed before the houses, floated gracefully in the wind ; and among these delightful habitations we noticed that of Admiral La- touche, where he usually passes the day, but returns to sleep on board his vessel. The entrance of the road is closed by Cape Cepe, where a watch tow^er is erected ; and at the foot of w hich stands the Lazaretto. Since the introduction of the plague in 1721, the Toulonese have been extremely vigilant in enforcing the quarantine laws. Cape Cepe is joined to the land by a very narrow' tongue, termed the Sablettes. In w orking out of the small harbour, we observed two rocks, which touch each other ; on w hich account, the sailors term them the Two Brothers. The entrance to the harbour is defended by Fort Balaguay and that of Vignettes, formerly Fort Saint Louis. Leaving Cape Side to the left, we coasted along the shore near to the rocks, termed by the sailors JEscambebariou, when the wind began to blow so impetuously, that is w'as impossible to keep the sea in our small bark, and we landed at Quarqiie- rane ; carrying ashore with us the provisions w'e had brought from Toulon, on which we breakfasted, under the shade of some fig-trees, at the foot of a mountain, termed the Montague des Okeaux, or Montague de Qaarquerane ^ w'hich is delightfully situated, and rises about 200 toises above the level of the sea. We vainly waited for a calm, for the sea became more and more agitated, till we at length adopted the resolution of pur- suing our w'ay on foot to Hyeres, where w'e had ordered our carriage to meet us the next morning ; nor had we any cause to repent our excursion, since nothing can be more delightful than the road we travelled, and the surrounding landscape, which is every wkere ornamented with olive and fig-trees. We crossed a beautiful valley, watered by a rivulet, which forms a great many falls from the points of th^ rocks over which it runs, and which are clothed with some species of laurel, Launts nobitisy and Nerion oleander ; on the left is an eminence, termed by the peasants the Colline noire, and a small but uncommonly fertile valley, appropriately named le Faradis. HYERES AND itS ENVIRONS. S51 The plain of Hyeres next appeared in sight, covered with palm trees ; the road which runs through it is very agreeable, and shaded by olive and fig-trees, while several rivulets fertilize the adjoining fields. The palm trees, which w'e perceived at a distance, pointed out to us the site of the city of Hyeres, w hich is built, in the form of an amphitheatre, on the declivity of a mountain, that defends the whole plain, which stretches to the sea, from the influence of the north w'ind. The summit of the mountain is bare, and cleft in several places, so as to give it the appearance, when viewed from a distance, of a fort intended to protect the city ; which, on the whole, has rather a disagree- able aspect, owdng to the streets being straight, gloomy, and steep. There were formerly a great number of convents in the city. Towards the base of the mountain are situated the most modern houses, the principal street, the square, and the inns W'here those strangers stop, who are attracted to Hyeres by the mildness of the climate ; «nd in this direction there is also several celebrated gardens, the most beautiful of w hich is that be- longing to M. Fille. Except in this lower part they have ceased to build, and the ancient town will soon be completely deserted. From thence, as far as the plain, which borders the sea, the declivity of the hill, though gentle, is yet sufficient to shelter the orange trees from the influence of the north wdnd, dhd to faci- litate the frequent irrigation necessary for their grow th and sup- port. We next visited the gardens of M. Fille, and those of M. Beauregard, which are contiguous to the former. Though less celebrated, and containing fewer orange trees, they are, however, more extensive, and abound wdth a greater variety of fruits, which, during unfavourable seasons, make up to the pro- prietor for the failure of his orange crop. They likewise raise in the adjoining fields a considerable quantity of legu- minous and other vegetables. It was affirmed to us, that in 1793, the crop of artichokes alone sold for eighteen hun- dred franks. There were some time ago, in this garden, a beautiful male and female palm-tree, the latter of which pro- duced excellent dates. But the male palm having perished, the other has ever since remained barren. In general, the rare trees and flowers are planted near to the houses, while the rest of the garden is exclusively devoted to the more productive culture of oranges. It is affirmed, that, excepting the gardens of Messrs. Fille and Beauregaid, there is no place at Hyeres well adapted for the culture of these trees. This is obviously a mistake ; for there are many other spots sheltered from the north, where they 1 i e 252 MILLIIS’S TRAVELS IN FRANCE. might vegetate and prove equally productive. A deficiency of water alone seems to be the true cause why other individuals have not attempted to form similar establishments. There is only a single spring, which the proprietors of these gardens have the exclusive right of diverting during some days every week, to fill the reservoirs, by which their plantations are watered. We first began to perceive the orange tree at Olioulles ; but it never attains to a great height, and the cold frequently de- stroys it ; nor can it be raised on the plains of Toulon. It thrives tolerably well betw’een Hyeres and Frejus, beyond the Esterel ; but the oranges of Hyeres acquire greater perfection than the former. We are ignorant of the period when oranges first began to be cultivated in Provence. This tree appears to be indigenous in Persia, between Persepolis and Carmana; from thence it appears to have been propagated into Pontus, afterwards into Greece, Italy, and the southern provinces of France. We ascended the tower of an ancient convent, called Saint- Clair, to survey the territory of Hyeres : from thence we be- held its rich plain, about four leagues in length by one in breadth, and the orange gardens, which extend along the walls of the city. To the right we perceived the mountain of Notre-Hame, and further on, the vast lake of Giens ; in front the small river Gapean, which intersects the whole district, and near w'hich are the salt-pits ; and beyond them the gulph of Hyeres, and the isles of the same name. The climate is unhealthy from May to October ; but during the remainder of the year the air is pure and salubrious. The bread and water, with which Hyeres is supplied, are of a good quality. Good wine may also be had here; fish, game, and poultry, are also to be procured in great abundance. The en- virons exhibit rich and enchanting scenery ; while every thing at Hyeres contributes to render an abode therein agreeable and delightful. Hyeres has been the birth place of many illustrious charac- ters ; among w horn we may rank P. Raynaid, who rejected a bishoprick, and the celebrated Massillon. We had heard much of a painting representing the twelve apostles, and of a bas-relief, by Puget, which decorates the chapel of Notre-Dame d’Hyeres. This chapel is erected on a hill, near the borders of the sea, about a league distant from the city. It is no longer used as a place of public wmrship, but is occupied by a hermit, w ho has taken up his abode in it as an expiation for his immoderate passion for high play ; and wdio has probably found in this mimimery, a resource against the losses he has sustained. The prospect from this njountain m TOULONESE PEASANTS. extremely magnificent and extensive ; Ilyeres appears in the form of an amphitheatre. On the other side of the mountain rises that of Perriere, in the grottos of which may be seen many curious stalactitic incrustations. A Toulonese peasant, going from Quarquerane to Hyeres, had agreed to carry our portmanteaus ; but he did not fulfij his engagement. The Provencal peasants are in general little wor- thy of trust ; those in the vicinity of Toulon are particularly crafty and deceitful. If you enquire the way to any place, they will either not answer, or endeavour to mislead you. If in travelling you stand in need of any assistance, they will laugh ; if you are in danger, they wall continue their route. If a travel- ler, parched by thirst, should pull a grape, he may esteem him- self fortunate if this slight indiscretion do not draw^ on him a cudgelling, or induce the proprietor to fire upon him. Their cries resemble those of a tyger ; tlieir vivacity is rage. Their quarrels are often productive of serious consequences ; for they frequently retaliate upon each other by giving a blow with a stick, a stone, or a thrust with a knife ; which often proves fatal. He who committed the crime, on becoming calm, re- ' fleets not on the atrocity of the action, but on the consequences .to be apprehended from it. He abandons his victim, whom he might have assisted, and often dispatches him, in order to avoid detection. His resolution is soon taken ; he flies, and posted in some secret hiding place, darts upon the unwary traveller, whom he plunders, and frequently even assassinates. Such is the conduct of the banditti, wdio somtimes infest the roads of Provence. The citizens of Hyeres are characterized by mildness and affability in their manners. As tins city derives much of its wealth from the abode of foreigners of all ranks, its inhabitants feel themselves interested in rendering their stay there as agree- able as possible ; in a word, they are as mild as the climate under which they five. The population is reckoned at seven thousand souls. The Anguille had anchored in the road of Hyeres; on learn- ing which, w'e departed to join her. In onr way thither, wo crossed the plains of Hyeres ; wiiich, towards the land, is com- pletely surrounded by high mountains, with the exception of a narrow’ pass towards the nortli, whence runs the road to Toulon. This plain is intersected by the Hapeau. It is most fertile on the right bank of this river. 'I'iic neiglibouring mountains display a great variety of forms ; several of them a'o absolutely naked, while others are ciotlieil w ith oaks, and dif- ferent kinds of trees. The interior parts of tins plain are cul- 254 MILL>n's travels in FRANCE. tivated, but the land is very pebbly ; it is in general planted in alternate patches or belts of wheat and vines ; the olive trees thrive here astonishingly. As we approached nearer to the sea, the land became more marshy ; a circumstance which renders this district unhealthy during summer, and gives rise to epidemic diseases. It is probable that the plain of Hy6res has formerly been a gidph, and been gradually tilled up by the falling down of matters from the neighbouring mountains. The Gapeau has its source in the territory of Signe, and near to its mouth are situated some salt-pits. They are formed of a square space of about a league in circumference, enclosed by a fence, and divided into several smaller squares, also surt^ounded by ditches and canals, by which they introduce the sea water, leaving it to evaporate by the heat of the sun. When the operation has been several times repeated, the salt is carried to the magazines, situated near the shore, and adjoining to which are the habitations of the workmen. The produce of these salt-pits is estimated at five huiKlred thousand franks, and the value of the establishment is said to be daily augmenting. On reaching our vessel, w^e learned that the enemy’s cruizers had picked up some fishing vessels and other small ships near the coast, which determined us to relinquish our original inten- tion of visiting the Isles of Flyeres, situated about four leagues distant from the shore; and to which the inhabitants of Hyeres frequently go on parties of pleasure. 4'hese isles form a beautiful groupe, W'hich are discovered at four or five miles distance out at sea. After viewing this part of the coast, we returned to Hyeres, where our sailors waited for the signal from the watch-tower, that the enemy had left the coast, in order to put to sea and proceed to Saint-Tropez. CHAP XXXVI. DEPARTURE FROM H Y ERES — MOUNT AI N OF AVERNE— MINERALS — PLANTS CASTLE OF LA MOLLE THE MAURES CASTLE^ OF FRAINET THE SARACENS IN PROVENCE — COGOLIN — HERACLEA SAINT TROPEZ^ — COMMERCE FISHERY. There being no direct road between Hyeres and Nice, those who wkh to visit the latter city must return to Toulon, DEPARTURE FROM HYERES. and afterwards pursue their route from Frejus, by Cuers and Pignans. From Hyeres to Saint Tropez there is no road fit for carriages; we were, therefore, obliged to provide ourselves with horses and a guide ; and on the J2th June set out on our journey at two o’clock in the morning. From Toulon we travelled along the coast as far as Frejus. This road, which is bordered by a pomegranate hedge, is, at first, intersected by several smaller paths. The soil is extremely fertile, producing corn and vines in abundance. To the right we beheld the salt-pits, and beyond them the sea, from the bosom of which emerge the islands of which I have already spoken. In a short time we reached the mountainous chain, which forms the amphitheatre of the plain of Hyeres. That which we traversed is denominated the mountain of Aveine. The scenery is, in many places, picturesque, and from the sub- stances, of which this mountain is composed, it must prove inte- resting in a mineralogical point of view. The quartz, which forms the base of the soil, has been acted on in several places, by the torrents, which have formed in it numberless furrows and fissures, of different degrees of depth and breadth. Here the road loses its terrific aspect, and assumes the appearance of a foot-path, winding in various directions. Somewhat farther on, the nature of the soil changes, and abounds in curious and inte- resting minerals ; with the help of a hammer w e broke several of them, and filled a basket with the fragments ; they w ere mostly varieties of granite, porphyry, and quartz ; with tliis last, shining mica is intermingled in such profusion, as to impart to it the appearance of gold or silver, especially when it reflects the rays of the setting sun. One of the representatives of the people, unacquainlcd with mineralogy, having traversed this mountain, in 179-3, was anxious to collect this beautiful sand, and transmitted it to the Convention, as a proof of the ignorance of the administrators of the department of the Var, wdio trampled under foot, he asset t- ed, treasures sufficient to defray the expcnces of a w ar against all the potentates of the earth, and who were ignorant of its value. The sinuosities formed by the torrents, whicli in taking dift'erent directions, produce vai iations in the ground, tiie plants with which the sod is covered, still farther augments the singula- rity of this country, where not a single hut can be seen. We were almost led to suppose ourselves transported into a desi rt waste, far from the haunts of men and civilized socletv. W e amused ourselves by collecting several southern plants for our herbarium. It always conveys to the mind a pleasing sensation, 260 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. to behold the plants we have gathered upon a soil where the;f grow spontaneously : they recal to mind the situations where we found them, the places we have traversed, the friends whom we Lave left behind ; it affords a source of the most agreeable and endearing recollections ; even if they do not augment our know- ledge, they excite in the mind an interest greater than those which have been transplanted into gardens for our amusement and instruction. The plants of Provence are well known by the great work of Garidel, and by the excellent Flora of M. Gerard. It is in these mountains, in those of the Esterel and of la Vic- toire, that these two indefatigable botanists have reaped a most abundant harvest. It is to be lamented, that the first had adopted an alphebetical arrangement, and that the other had digested his Flora before LinnaBus, whose method he followed, had intro- duced trivial names, wd)ich so greatly assist the memory, and thereby facilitate the acquisition of botanical science. It would be desirable that some intelligent botanist, availing himself of the labours of these two learned men, might favour us with a Flora of Provence. As natural history w^as not the principal object of our travels, we did not stop in these places a sufficient length of time to mark all the different objects w'orthy of investigation : we W'ere forced to content ourselves with what fell in our way, and w ith procuring specimens of such minerals, plants, and insects, as belonged more particularly to the south of France. We observed, in the progress of our journey, with much regret, that a great quantity of beautiful pines had been de- stroyed by lire. Many of them were lying on the ground en- tirely stript of their branches, and wdth their trunks blackened with the smoke. In many other places we beheld traces of similar conflagrations ; there are few spots on which pines grow, exempt from similar devastations. I have before mentioned the causes to which are attributable these disgraceful conflagrations, and the means best adapted to prevent them. The inter- mixture of these blackened pines, steep and rugged rocks, ravines imd deep furrows, caused by the torrents, all con- spired to suggest to die mind some ideas of what the poets tell us of the descent into the infernal abodes. We discovered, in several places, many varieties of oak, such as qiiercus ilex, green oak ; quercus I'otundifoiia, round leaved oak, the acorns of w'hich, when boiled and roasted, are eaten by the peasants ; quercus robur, common oak ; quercus pedun- culata, pedunculated oak ; the wood of which, being harder and more compact, resist more powerfully, the influence of the waler, and which the ancients employed in building. The iPLANTs, Minerals, &Ci 2o7 species itiost common in these itioutitains, is the querciis mher^ or cork-oak ; it was at that period when they strip it of its bark. This bark is removed every eight or ten years, without the tree suffering any injury. It is covered with stones, in order to flatten it, after Are having been applied to both its surfaces ; it is then transported to Saint-Tropez, where it is formed into corks. Innumerable shrubs, unknown to the inhabitants of the northern departments, exhibit an agreeable variety. The '■crr- hatm grows there in profusion, the whole ground being covered with it. Juniperus communis, or common juniper, is likewise very frequent. Among many other shrubs which presented themselves during our journey, we distinguished the artemisia ahrotonum, southernwood, the myrtus communis, common the white blossoms of which afford an agreeable con- trast with the yellow flowers oi jasminuni fniticcins, or jessa- mine. While descending into some depth's, rendered almost impas- sable during the rainy season ; while climbing some hills, whence we could enjoy the enchanting spectacle of the sea at a dis- tance, we descried three English vessels at the point of the Isle of Levant and of the harbour of Hyeres ; they were in pursuit of several small vessels, when they were fired on by the battery, which rendered us anxious for the safety of cur own bark. We stopped at the ancient castle of JLa Molle^ which belongs to M . de Fons-Colombe. A peasant procured us some plates, and we dined upon the provisions we had brought w ith us, near a fountain, shaded by mulberry trees. Before resuming our route, W'e traversed the environs, and procured an ample collection of minerals. After refreshing ourselves and horses, W'e again proceeded by a road somewhat similar, as far as Cogolin, tlie houses of which are chiefly built with a kind of serpentine, found in the mountains. A mineralogist, instead of repairing directly to Saint-Tropez, should take the road to the left, which is by far the most inte- resting (in a mineralogical point of view), and go as far as La Garde-Frainet ; whence he should proceed to Draguignan. Vv"e saw, in the museum of this city, specimens of the different minerals, common in the vicinity. These mountains likewise roiitain a large bed of serpentine, sometimes of a grey, and sometimes of a blackish colour, with amianthus adhering to it. 1 lie mountain, on which stands the castle of Frainet, and those \\hich surround it, are chiefly composed of gneiss. This chain of mountains, whicii we oxplorei’, and which .sti'v tches from Ilyeics as far as Frejus, where it is divided fioui MILLIN.] Kk 238 millin’s travels in trance. the Esterel by the river Argent, is called the Maiires, doubtless, from the great number of Saracens who dwelt upon its borders. After having subjugated Spain, they made incursions into Lan- guedoc and Provence, during the year 721. Those who were driven out of Languedoc by the Dukes of Aquitaine, entered Provence in 729, where they committed dreadful devastations. After forming a junction, they advanced in great force as far as Poitiers, where they were routed and cut to pieces by Charles Martel in 732 : he also overthrew them in Provence, and ex- pelled them from the country. They afterwards, how ever, made several descents upon the coast in 737, by means of small vessels, and committed dreadful ravages. Jt Was then that they pillaged the monastery of Lerins, after having massacred the monks. The Danes, called Normans, destroyed what they had spared. At the same period w'as effected the destruction of several Roman cities in Provence, and particularly of lleraclea and Olbia. The Saracens re-entered Provence in R88, and piiT every thing to fire and sword ; while tfie iNormans devastated tlie north of France. They destroyed Aix and Marseilles; took possession of the gulph of Saint-Tropez, and occupied the cir- cumjacent country. It was at this epoch, that they bitilt thq Castle of Frainet, or Fraxinet, probably so called, on account of the vast number of ash-trees, w'ith which the neighbouring territory abounded. They kept possession of this strong fortress till 932, when William 1. Count of Provence, expelled them it. lie was powerfully aided, in this glorious enterprise, by several brave knights ; of these, one of the most renowned, was Devon, or Bobon, son of the Seigneur de overs, near Sisteron. Tins knight retired into Italy, where he lived in voluntary poverty ; and in whicli country he was honoured as a saint. The Saracens never again returned. At Fraxinet are still to be seen a great deep fosse, and a capacious cistern, both liewu out of the solid rock. ' Before arriving at Cogolln, wliere black kidney-beans are muck cultivated, we discovered Roquebrune, the territory of uliicli is fertilized by the alluvial matter deposited by the Argent, during its inundations, and the chateau de Gr'raiand, in which was born the unfortunate Madame d’Entrccasteaux, so inlni- rnanly assassinated by her husband. At Cogolin we left the jiiountainoas region, and proceeded through a plain, whicli is ex- tremely feitile, and yields abundant crops of corn. The soil becomes sterile on approaching the gulph, the direction of v\ hich, we pursued as far as the point where the city of Saint Tropez is situated. This city is built upon the site of the ancient llrrailca : per- SAINT-TROPEZ, FISHERY, &C. 2^9 haps so called, because it possessed a temple of Hercules. It '■vas sacked and destroyed by the Saracens ; and, not withstanding the protection offered by the Counts of Provf'uce to those N\ho should there establish themselves, no one ventured to inhal)it it. At last, sixty Genoese families, under the conduct of Gaffarel de Garessio, settled there in 1470, on condition that they should be exempt from all taxes. i\t that period there were only two towns which served to defend the country, and w'hich still exist. There the Genoese built a city, which they denominated Tropez, from the name of a Saint, who suffered martyrdom at Pisa ; the relics of wdiom they transported to their new residence. The port is formed by a mole thrown across the gulj)h, which the ancients termed Sirius Sarnbracitanus, and which is now' called the Gulph of Grimaud, from the name of the great senes- chal of Provence, Jean de Cassa, Baron of Grimaud, who con- cluded the treaty with the Genoese. The territory around Saint Tropez is very unproductive : but the air is so pure and salubrious, that the plague never raged there, though it was epidemic in the adjacent country. At this place they build trading-vessels, some of which are afterwards taken up for transports. Prior to the lievolution, they had established some silk manufactories. The construction of vessels, the exportation of wood, and the manufacture of corks, now constitute the chief employment of the inhabitants of this city. They have also recently attempted the process of making salt. The wine is of a bad quality. Fish forms a considerable source of trade. As there was nothing worthy of examination in the city, ^1. Sisterne, inspec- tor of the customs, to w'hom M. Brack lead favoured us witli letters of introduction^ and from whom we received a polite re- ception, proposed that we should take a view of their mode of fishing, and had the goodness to accompany us in his small bark, on board of which we embarked, at day-break, in order to proceed to Frejtis. The chief object of this fishery is the tunny, or Scoinber iht/riuus, L. but they likewise take a great many other fish, as turbot, soles, thorn-backs, 8cc. Consider- able numbers of the former are sent fresh to ditferent places for sale, while the remainder is salted, in order to preserve them, and afterwards put into oil. W hen they are washed and pressed for sale, the oil which is obtained from them, is used by tanners. Kk e ( £60 ) CHAP. XXXVIL i5ULPH OF GFIMAUD — SAINT MAXIME— THE YASSAMBRES r^SAlNT RAFFAU — FORUM JULIl FREJUS HISTORY ANCIENT PORT LAKES — CHURCH OF SAINT STEPHEN ——T— PHAROS— -PORTE DOREE — WALLS — MAGA^IN ES AQUEDUCTS — CIRCUS — PANTHEON — INSALUBRITY OF THE CLIMATE — FR V EES— A N C HO V Y FISHERY CANES, ANTIQUITIRS, &C, After having observed the various operations of the hshery^ we took leave of M. Sisterne, and crossed the gulph of Giimaud, which is upwards of three leagues in circum-? ference, This passage usually occupies a quarter of an hour. From the middle of the gulph we beheld sohie ancient towers, which served as a defence against the Saracens, and the works which were added to them in 1592, by the Duke d’Eper- non, to convert them into a citadel; its form is very irregular; it has three bastions in front; defends a part of the gulph, and overlooks the city of Salnt-Tropez. At the other extremity of the entrance into the gulph is Saint- Maxime : the soil is arid and sandy ; here they cultivate the cane, which they fabricate into weavers’ reeds. Behind this village ^re mountains wholly covered with forests. At the bottom of the gulph lies Grimaud, the plain of which is inundated every winter by the overdo wing of the torrents, which cross it. Several small lakes are here to be seen, known in this country by the name oi gar onnes. Some of these codec - tioiis of water are kept up by constant springs ; but some others are partially dried up during the summer, and exhale pestilen- tial miasmata. It vrould be of great benefit were they wholly filled up. On leaving the gulph, we descried an English vessel;' on which we kept close in shore. In a short time, how^ever, we became, in our turn, an object of alarm to a small tartan coming from Frejus, who, as soon as she perceived us, caused her own boat to tow her ashore ; nor w'ere her fears wholly void of HISTORY OF FREJUS, 8CC, foundation, as the English privateers frequently send in armed boats to capture the small craft, which dare not venture to a distance from the coast. It was, on this account, that we at first made the point of Yassambres, as recommended to us by M. Sisterne, in order to learn if the gulph of Frejus was clear of the enemy. A few days before, a vessel had been chased into this gulph by a privateer. After having doubled the point of Yassambres, we had to the left the gulph of Frejus. To the right, is a small rock,, called La Grijfe dii Liorij on account of its form ; and, at the opposite extremity of the gulph is the point of Ogay, near to which the town of Saint Raphael, or Saint RafFau, as it is termed by the inhabitants. The vines, which grow in this district, yield excellent white wane. Frejus forms an amphitheatre at the bottom of the gulph. We shewed our bill of health, and obtained entrance into the port, or rather the anchorage of Saint-RafFau. We repaired on foot to Frejus, by crossing the sandy plain, which w^as formerly the port. The reapers were already Q,ccupied in cutting down the barley, and the other grain w’as nearly ready for the sickle ; the harvest had also begun in the plains of Napoule and of Frejus. From the situation of these places, the grain there arrives much sooner’ at a state of maturity than in the other cantons. Frejus enjoys some reputation, on account of its antiquities. It is also classic ground. Ciesar aggrandised and embellished this city, wFich was the capital of the Oxibli : on which account, it is called Lor urn JuUi, from whence is derived the modern name of Lrejiils^ now pronounced Frejus. Augustus finished the port that Caesar had begun; and he placed in this a colony of soldiers of the eighth legion, which procured it the surname of Colonia Octavanorum. Tliis port must have been of great extent, since Augustus sent to it three hundred vessels that he had taken from Antliony at the battle of Actiura. The fleet w'hich the Emperor kept here, served to defend the whole Mediterranean coast as far as Marseilles. That city likewise served them for an arsenal, w herefore Pliny be- stowed on it the name of Classica. When the Saracens pillaged the isles of Lerins, thev also ravaged these ’coasts ; and it is jirobably from tiiat epoch, that W'e may date the decline and lall of that once opulent cltv. Small vessels could still enter its ports m the eighth century. The inhabitant;-, in despair, ceased to exert themselves against the encroarinnents, occasioned by a torrent, called the Ar- gent. In a few years the sand, slime, and mud, had so much Ugcumulated, and filled up this celebrated port, that the place MILLIn’s travels liV FRANCE. where the vessels formerly cast anchor, as the iron rings, which are found, sufficiently attest, is now about half a league dis- tant from the sea. These depositions have formed lakes, where the accumulated sand and other matters exhale noxious miasmata, which prove extremely deleterious to the country about Frejus, above which clouds frequently hover and destroy the harvests. Henee the ex- tent and population of this city have greatly diminished : its cir- cumference, which was formerly five thousand paces, is now much reduced. The river Argent, which runs east of this city, was known by the Romans under the name of I'lunmi Ar- ^enteiim. o , , , Lepidus encamped upon its banks, in order to dispute the passage of Anthony ; but, instead of opposing, he joined Ids forces with that general’s against the Senate. It is affii-med, that this river derives its name from the silver, which is washed down by* its etrcain. P. Hardouin ascribes this name to the translu- cency of its Maters. It seems probable, that the portions of mica found intermingled M’ith the sand washed dovvn, induced the belief that silver existed therein. The ruins every where discoverable on the road leading to the city, attest its pristine splendour and importance; but on enter- ing it, we found the streets nearly deserted, and the houses, for the most part, uninhabited. The sickly and livid complexions of those whom we met, their cadaverous visages, and sunken eyes, almost induced us to suppose ourselves within the precincts of an hospital. Though we took up our abode at the best inn the place afforded, M'e yet found it extremely dirty and disgusting. Fvery where v^e observed the most horrible filthiness ; putrid water Mas served up in dirty vessels ; swarms of flies settled on the viands, which they season M’ith rancid oil : wasps and spiders, from tlie adjoining marshes, continually tormented us during the day with tlieir painful stings ; and during the night we M'ere not less harassed by other insects, equally teazing, and stiil moi’e dis- gusting : hovvever, those habituated to them, might regard such animals with indifference; tons they allowed no repose, and M e M ere induced to consider them as the greatest of all pos- sible calamities. We lamented that the ardent curiosity which had inspired us with the desire of visiting places so celebrated in the annals of history and antiquities, should have led us into this abode of M'retcliedness ; on M'hich account, we were anxious to leave it as goon as possible. We knew that M. Raymond de Cepede M'as eug'dged in a work, respecting the monuments of his country; CHURCH OF saiNt-stephen. 2G.j we lliCTcfore addressed ourselves to this gentleman, who politely favoured us with his company on this occasion. We first visited the church, dedicated to St. Stephen ; at one side of the entrance i» the baptistery, a small circular edifice, supported l)y eight columns of hard black granite, wdth Corin- thian capitals of white marble. It is supposed to have been a temple; and in the truth of this opinion, we are ijiclined to acquiesce, since no facts tend to invalidate it. \Vc observed a Christian sarcophagus, ornamented with three subjects sculptured in relief, among which w'e recognised the figures of our first parents. We also beheld a square piece of marble, the inscrip- tion on which, hud been renewed, with much care. Ti’he place of the characters, as well as their lengt!) and depth, could be distinguished ; but we found it utterly impossible to decypher the letters. We likewise noticed an ancient altar, but witliout any inscription. There exist in this Ghurch only tw'o tolerable paintings; one of them exhibits a characteristic trait, related by the author of the Life of Saint Francis de Paule. Having learned, on landing, that the plague was devastating the city of Frejus, he removed it by the efficacy of his prayers; and the inhabitants as- cribed its subsequent exemption from this scourge to his' inter- cession with the Deity. The front of the altar represents the same Saint crossing the strait of Messina upon his mantle. The respectable cure vaunted much of a statue, which had been carefully preserved in the sacristy; but which we found, on inspection, to be nothing more than a little figure of painted and varnished w^ood, representing a child, habited in a white shirt, d'here is still to he seen in this church, the statue of Ihirtheleirii Cameliii, bishop of I'rejus, in 1394, who was regarded as the restorer of order and discipline in his diocese. M. Kaymond politely accompanied ns in our examination of the Roman antiquities in the vicinity of the city, d’oward the w-cst, we beheld the remains of a square tow er, supposed to have been a Pharos. Hard by arc the traces of some buildings, the uses of which still remain unknown; and farther on a tower. In pursuing the direction of the old quay, on our return to the city, along an ancient wadi, wc reached a kind of mob*, tlauued by four towin's ; which appears to have been constructed, in order to protect vessels against the w iiui termed w/sZ/v//. I'ollowlng the same route, we arrived at Port^' Dortc : a name whieh, the inhabitants informed us, had bt'en be-towed on It, liecause in some parts of the building, nails w ith gilt hea(i'< li ad been discovered. In fact, we ourselves saw a few of these nads, vhieh hud been despoiled of their heads; hut whether ih, v €'G4 millin'^ travels in FRANCE. were really gilt, remains yet to be ascertained. This budd- ing is composed of bricks, or of the same species of serpen-^ tine employed at Saint-Tropez. The courses of these stones and brick alternate with each other, in the same manner as is observable in most Roman monuments. In the w'all of a house, behind Porte Doree^ we beheld a Doric capital, as well as a muitilated marble head, placed on another wail of the sanne house, the vaults of which contain the remains of an aqueduct. After dinner we again commenced onr researches ; and de- scended, by the help of a ladder, into a vault, which M. Fauchet, then prefect of the Var, had ordered to be cleared out. It seems to have been employed as a reservoir for water, and is formed of arched galleries, three of which extend in length, and four in breadth, it resembles that of Lyons. The plaster, with which the walls are covered, is of a singular composition. The first coating consists of a rough plaster, over which is spread a second, containing a great quantity of pulverised char- coal ; and a third layer of mortar covers the w’hole. Were the ancients acquainted with the property possessed by charcoal, of preserving water i* If so, we must suppose them to have hit by chance on that which modern chemists discovered by their ow'n genius. A little farther on, M. Raymond pointed out to ns the remains of a vaulted magazine, the w’alls of which were covered with mastic, like the reservoir above-mentioned. A part of the door by which we entered, still exists. Hard by the gate de la Clcde, near the ground, are to be seen the vestiges of an ancient circus. It is of an elliptical form, and the inclosure is in a tolerable state of preservation ; blit the seats have been destroyed. The arena is very unequal, having been elevated in several places by rubbish. At the upper part of tfie building, the remains of a cornice are still visible. One of the stones, of whicii it is composed, is penetrated by a hole, extending through one half of its substance ; these perfo- rated stones appear to have served the same purposes as those of the theatre at Orange, to support rods, to which were attached awnings, intended to shelter the spectators from the heat of the sun. The frieze liad been decorated wdth sculptures, as far as we could form a judgment, from a fragment there found, and upon which we beheld a garland, &c. About five liimdred paces farther on, in a place called Ville- neuve, stands a towej', with very thick w’alis, and in which we lieheld some small niches, probably intended for the reception of urns. At one lime, it appears to have served as a colarnhu- INSALUBRITY OF FREJUS. Q65 rium, dove house. This edifice is known under the name of Pantheon. There are still to be seen the remains of an extensive aqueduct, constructed by the Romans, for the purpose of conveying water from Siugne. Its ruins strikingly attest the genius and magnificence of that celebrated nation. These mas- ters of the world, having discovered the advantages resulting to them from the mildness of the climate, and the favourable situation of Frejus, adopted the resolution of there forming an extensive establishment. By them a mole was built, to afford shelter to the port ; spacious magazines were erected for storing provisions, and a vast aqueduct was constructed for conducting fresh water, and large reservoirs for collecting, and supplying ships with it. But the inhabitants of this place, otherwise so favoured by nature, have allowed these magnificent works to fall into decay. It would have been easy to repair the aque- ducts built by the Romans ; but this has never been attempted ; in consequence of which neglect, more have fallen victims, within the space of ten years, to the insalubrity <^f the place, and want of water, than would have been necessary to recon- struct them. It should indeed seem, that the inhabitants of Frejus expect the miraculous interposition of Providence in their favour, since they employ no means to counteract the de- structive influence of those causes, with which they are con- stantly assailed. In addition to the bad weather, the atmos- phere is charged with pestiferous miasmata, exhaled from the adjoining marshes ; especially in the month of August, when pestilential fevers rage with the greatest violence. It is during this period, that those who are in easy circumstances, retire to their country houses. Throughout this month nothing is heard but the knell of the funeral bell. Seven or eight persons daily fall victims to this malignant distemper. It is computed, that nearly four hundred are carried off by it. A young domestic of our host, lost, in one day, his grandmother, mother, and aunt. The figs, which they collect in abundance, at this period, are reckoned one of the principal causes of tiiis fever. Flesh- meat is also regarded as an umvholesome article of diet; while fish is considered as the best. This district, so insalubrious, is yet reckoned one of the juost fertile in Provence. The citron, orange, pomegranate, and fig-trees, all bear fruit in abundance, and in- deed every other species of fruit trees tlirive equally well. The aloes, which grows upon the sides of highways, sufficiently attest the genial mildness of the climate. The territory environing the city, is a fertile plain, extending from west to south, and bounded by a chain of mountains, .terminating at the sea shore. To the east- MILLIN.] L i £66 MILLIN-S TRAVELS IN FRANCE. ward also, rise some high mountains. All kinds of vegetables are raised in the environs, and wood is abundant. From the indolence of its inhabitants, a stranger might be tempted to suppose, that the commerce of Frejus was far from being active. The articles they export consist of the wine and fruits of the country. They possess some distilleries, and several extensive potteries for the manufacture of common eartheru ware. The anchovy fishery in the gulph is very productive. It commences toward the latter end of spring, of at the beginning of summer. The fishers carry with them chafing dishes, in which they kindle clear fires with the chips of resinous wood. On the anchovies approaching them, they extinguish them, and beat the water, upon which the fish, wishing to escape, immedi- ately retire, and are caught in the nets, with which they are sur- rounded. The anchovies are eaten fresh; but the greater partis salted. For this puipose, after removing the head and entrails, they salt thefish^ and put them into barrels, with alternate lairs of salt and fennel. It is an opinion among the fishermen of Pro- vence, that red salt answ^ers best ; and on this account they colour it vyith ochreous earths. An aperture is left in the cask, in order thereby, to introduce fresh brine in proportion as the former drains off. Canes or reeds constitute a considerable branch of the commerce of Frejus and Saint Tropez ; the inha- bitants in each of which, yearly dispose of them to the amount of from forty to fifty thousand iivres. These reeds, the insalu-? brious marshes of Frejus furnish in great abundance, and to this productive source is perhaps attributable the frequent visita- tion of pestilential maladies. They collect them towards the month of December, when they are sufficiently hardened, and arrange them according to their different sizes. From the various purposes to which reeds are applicable, it might, per- haps, be useful to naturalize them in the south, as well as in other parts of France, but whether such an attempt would succeed, has not yet been fully ascertained. Among the monuments discovered at Frejus, are, a statue affirmed to be that of Venus Urania, which was sent tu Paris in l6oO, and a marble bust of Janus, which the chapter made a pre- sent of to Cardinal Flieury. In the cabinet of antiquities, in the imperial library at Paris, is preserved the tripod, on which the celebrated Peiresc has written a dissertation. There was found, in the territory of Arcs, in the environs of the bridge, of which Lepidus speaks, in his letter to Cicero, a range of earthern vases, containing some ashes ; as also a me?- dallion of baked earth, representing a genius trampling on ^ lion. GREAT MEN BORN AT fREJUS. 26? On excavating the ground, M. Fauchet found a cylinder of amber, about three inches in length, and of a spiral form. Frejus has been the birth place of many celebrated men ; among whom may be reckoned Cornelius Gallus, a poet and general, who commanded in Egypt under Augustus, and was condemned to death for treason; Julius Graecinus, who was the author of some agricultural works, which obtained the praise of Pliny and the approbation of Columella; Julius Agricola, whose virtue and moderation, his relation, Tacitns, h^ eulo» gised; and Valerius Paulinus, the friend of Vespasian. CHAP xxxvnl. ROMAN WAY — THE ESTERELL — THE FAIRY OF ESTERELLE BRIGANDS BURNING OF FORESTS — THE NAPOULE CANNES BOSTERA — ISLE OF SAINT MARGUERITE STATE PRISONERS — ISLE OF SAINT HONORATUS MA- DEMOISELLE SAINTVAL ANTIBES THE INFANT DANCER, SEPTENTRIO AQUEDUCT COSTUME FISHES. At Frejus we spent two days ; which, notwithstanding the delightful situation of the city, appeared to us insufferably tedious ; and we anxiously longed to take our departure from it. The mountains and the forest of the Esterelle appeared to us too interesting to be passed by without notice. It was, therefore, agreed that we should meet our sailors at Cannes ; and we set out on horseback to visit them. We again passed by the aqueduct, before mentioned, and the remains of a Roman way. We crossed the valley of Frejus, and soon reached the mountain, from which issued a pure and limpid stream. The Israelites felt not happier, when the rock opened, on being struck by the rod of Moses, than we did, parched up as we were, w ith thirst, on the present occasion. According to a tradition, prevalent in the country, this moun- tain w’as formerly the abode of a fairy, called Esterelle ; from whom its appellation is derived. From the records of S. Armen- taire, it appears, they offered her sacrifices, and that she pre- sented their barren w'omen with drinks, to render them prolific. J[, U ,5(38 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. This mountain exhibits a still more picturesque appearance, and displays a greater variety of enchanting scenery than those of Maures. He who delights in admiring the various productions of nature, will here find himself amply gratified. The road was every where covered with myrtles, jessamines, arbutuses, &c. and various curious plants, the names of which 1 do not at present recollect. The soil w'as partly composed of a greenish serpentine, somewhat similar to that found in the mountains of Maures. After pursuing our journey for about four hours, we reached the inn of Esterelle; where is established a military post, com- posed of gens-d'armes and chasseurs. This detachment, which is relieved evei^ month, serves to escort the mail, and occasionally travellers, who remunerate them for their trouble. The woods, with which these mountains are invested, the depths into which we must descend, and from which it is impossible to emerge, but by narrow defiles, and the thinly scattered habitations, all tend to induce the belief of our wandering in a desert. These gloomy wilds had been long infested by banditti, who either sing- ly, or in conjunction, frequently plundered, and sometimes even assassinated, unwary travellers. They had murdered, we were informed, in the space of a year, not less than eleven persons belonging to one family. Several inhabitants knew their persons, but feared to denounce them, lest they should become their vic- tims, or be immolated by their survivors. Some even entered into terms with these w retches, and agreed to pay them a certain sum, that they might travel with impunity. The gens-d’armes, conducted by some peasants, went in pursuit of them ; destroyed a great number of the gang, and surprised their chief. He made, however, a vigorous resistance ; and, though desperately wounded, he, nevertheless, endeavoured to effect his escape f but was at last found expiring at the foot of a tree, against which he had supported himself. A price was set upon the heads of those W'ho survived. When w'e passed, only two of these banditti survived. They had retired to the frontiers of Italy ; but, as an accurate description of their persons had been obtained, hopes w’ere entertained that they would soon be cap- tured. One of the most sanguinary of these ruffians, as if to outrage nature, morality, and religion, had assumed the name of Jesus. Nothing can be more varied or picturesque, than the passage across these mountains. Standing at a considerable height, we beheld around us hills less elevated, and small cultivated plains ; we could also trace with our eye, the course of the tortuous path which it w^as necessary for us to pursue. The magnificent prospect before us, as well as the diversity of the plants, all PICTURESQUE PROSPECT, SCC, concurred to augment the pleasure we experienced in these de- lightful solitudes. Here the base of the soil is a porphyritic rock, of the colour of wine lees. We there remarked a few transparent crystals, intermixed with feld-spath, of which we collected several inte- resting specimens. The scene changes every instant in these mountains ; but the traveller is continually grieved, at beholding the spectacle of half burnt forests. These conflagrations are occasioned by the keepers and proprietors of flocks, who set fire to the bushes and trees, in order that the burnt vegetable matter may fertilize the soil, and improve the pasturage. But whole cantons are some- times also wilfully set on fire by individuals interested in obtain- ing the lands at a low rate. To prevent these disorders, some severe regulations have been enacted ; but they have net fully answered the intention. Towards eleven o’clock, we arrived at the bridge of Saint Jean, and halted for a short time, under a tree. The road w^as so rocky that the horses could scarcely proceed. A little farther on, we crossed a rivulet; after which it became smooth and ran along a plain; in some places it is formed by placing trunks of trees crosswise, and covering them with earth and gravel. In the forests of Swabia and Bavaria, roads are fre- quently repaired in this manner, as well as in Norway and Russia. At this place we came in sight of the gulph of Cannes, and the city to which it gives the name. It is situated on the left bank of the gulph, exactly opposite to Napoule, which stands on the right.* On our approach to Cannes, we found some granites. We . had scarcely entered the city w'hen our bark arrived. Although this town is well built, it aft’orded nothing sufficiently interesting to detain us a moment; and we, therefore, immediately repaired on horseback, to the promontory fronting the Isle of Mar- guerite. This coast is almost wholly covered with a very curi- ous marine production, Zoster a marina j L. which grows in ^ This territory, which is uncommonly fertile, is still more unhealthy than that of Frejus. Its insalubrity is, indeed, so great, that according to a popular saying, even the chickens there take the fever. The people em- ployed in the custom-house are obliged to be cha ged every six months; and the Inspector lives at Saint Tropez, whence he proceeds in a bark, when his presence is necessary. Tliey here cultivate oranges for the sake of the flowers, which they sell in great abundance to the perfumers at Grasse and Nice, £70 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. great abundance every where along the shores of the Mediter- ranean. This vegetable, eaten with salt, affords a very excel- lent sallad. The isle of Marguerite, which is separated only from the main land, by a very narrow' strait, w^as termed, by the ancients, Lej o, from the name of a divinity, who had a temple erected on the s]>()t, where at present stands the chapel dedicated to Saint Marguerite. The fort, which answ'ers the purpose of a state prison, has been celebrated in history, from the man in the iron mask having been some time confined within its walls. We had the curiosity to visit the chamber said to have been occupied by this mysterious prisoner. It h^s only one casement, towards the north, guarded by strong bars. The soldiers of the garrison, and those employed in different offices within the prison, are the only inhabitants of this isle. At the time we visited it, there were three state prisoners in the fort'. One of them enjoyed considerable liberty. He had fitted up for himself a detached building, in a very commodious manner. He was permitted to enjoy the diversion of hunting and fishing ; w'^as indulged with the society of his children, and a few friends ; and even per- mitted, sometimes, to entertain the inhabitants of Cannes and its environs. He w as besides, susceptible of those enjoyments worthy of a dignified soul. Anxious to leave behind him some memorials of his having occupied this Isle, he laboured to render it more agreeable to any unfortunate beings who might hereafter be condemned to inhabit it. With this view, he formed w^alks, and, at a great expence, sunk a well, where the existence of a spring was suspected. His fortune, elegant manners, and cultivated mind, gave him the air of a sovereign of this little Isle ; and w'e might have mistaken, for the captain of his guard, the Commandant, a brave honest veteran, who had passed most of his life in camps, and engaged in military exercises. A very narrow canal separates this Isle from another, still smaller, w hich the ancients denominated Lerina ; and which possesses the advantage of having a well of veiy excellent fresh W'atcr, from which Marguerite is supplied with this necessary article. This spring is supposed to have been miraculously dis- covered by Saint Honoratus, as the following inscription, placed above it, attests : CITY OF ANTIBES. 27 * Isacidum ducioj' lyniphas medicavit arnaras, Et vi?'gd f antes extudit h silice. Aspice 'at Inc rigido sargaat e marmore rlvi, Et salso dalds gurgitt vena jiuat. Pulsat llonoratas rapem, laticesqiie redundant , Et sadis et virgce Mosis ad&qaat opus, Mara, Exod. xv f Sin. Numer. xx. The retreat of the austere Saint Honoratus, has undergone a irt'onderful metamorphoses ; and, at present, belongs to Made- moiselle Saintval, the elder, so justly celebrated on the French stage. The soil of this Isle appears to be fertile ; and, on the whole, it presents a very agreeable aspect towards the sea. A tdegraph has been lately erected, which repeats the signals made from the watch-tower of Antijbes and the promontory of A gay. In the evening we embarked, in the hope of reaching Antibes before night; and were favoured with a letter to the Governor of that city from the Commandant of Marguerite. But, on en- tering the port, we could not find a messenger to carry our let- ter to the Governor, and, consequently, could not gain admit- tance into the city till the morning; and were, therefore, obliged to pass the night on the quay, wrapt up in our cloaks. At five in the morning, we entered the city of Antibes; which was termed Antiboul by the Provencals ; a name evi- dently derived from that of Antipolis, which it bears in ancient authors, and in medallions. It was founded by tlie Marseil- loise ; but afterwards withdrawn from their dominion. The Romans granted to it the rights of a Latin city. Pirates and Saracens have frequently plundered and laid waste this city. Clement VI I . after having obtained possession of it in 1384, under the pretext of keeping it under subjection to him, sold it to Messrs, de Grimaldi, of Genoa, who ceded it, in lf)08, to Henry IV. It was besieged, in 174^), by the troops of Maria*Theresa ; but the arrival of the Marechal de Belle- lie, made the Austrians re-pass the Var. Antibes is a small and ill built city, but its port has a very elegant appearance : it recals to our recollection that of Ostia ; the figure of which has been preserved in the medals of Nero, which was surrounded by porticoes. It is of a round form, provided with a quay, and a range of circular arcades. W'c enjoyed a very extensive prospect from the rampart. M. Jeaubon had the politeness to accompany us in our pere- 270 MILLINGS TRAVELS IN FRANCE. grinations, and lent us a manuscript history of the antiquities of Antibes, by Jean D’Avazry_, which proved extremely useful to us in our researches. The most curious monument is that of the young Septentrio. The inscription is singular ; it is incased in the wall, at the cor- ner of the street w^hich leads to the church ; and runs thus : D. M. PVERl SEPTENTRI ONIS ANNOR XU QVI ANTIPOLI IN THEATRO BIDVO SALTAVIT ET PLA CVIT To the memory of the infant Septentrio, aged XII. who danced twice at the theatre of Antibes, with the greatest applause. It is probable, that this youth, perhaps, fatigued by the ex- ertions he had made to merit the suffrages of the Antipolitans, during these two days, had died in their city, and that the in- habitants intended by this epitaph to record the regret they ex- perienced at his loss, and the approbation with which they beheld his talents. This city had formerly two acqueducts ; that which brought the w aters of Biot still exists : it has been much injured by the w eather, but was repaired in 1786, for the space of two thou- sand five hundred toises, and it at present supplies three foun- tains with water. The heights above Antibes afford a most magnificent pro- spect ; the eye wanders over the city, the port, the fortifica- tions, the gulph, and the coast, which is prolonged in the form of a semi-circle; we perceive hills covered with houses, in the midst of which stands the city of Nice ; and in the back ground rises the vast mountains of the maritime Alps, crowned with snow during the greatest part of the year. The females w ear a singular kind of head-dress, or straw hat, ill the form of a truncated cone, resembling a Chinese bonnet, which equally protect them from the sun and the rain. We returned very much fatigued with our excursion ; but the excellent cheer provided by our host. M. Bailice, very soon made us forget our toils. He dresses the different kinds of fish, with which the coast abounds, in such a .superior style, that FISH TAKEN NEAR ANTiBEs* S7-3 parties frequently go from Cannes and Nice to dine at liis house. The fish caught on the shores of Antibes are highly esteemed. The Sardinians ( rtupea sprattus, L.) are reckoned extremely deli- cious, though, in our opinion, not equal to those taken on the coast of Bretagne. This fish, which takes its name from the island of Sardinia, is eaten either fresh, smoaked, dried, or preserved in the manner of anchovies. There is also found on this coast the mullus ruber, Lacep. so highly valued by the Romans, that they bartered for them their weight of gold ; as well as the mullus surmuletus, Lacep. for which the Greek and Roman epicures displayed an equal avidity. These fishes are sometimes taken in the (^cean, but they are neither so abundant nor so delicate as those in the Mediterranean, and especially on the coasts of Provence, which also teems with a great variety of other excellent fish. After passing two days at Antibes, we again embarked, and were soon landed at Nice. t CHAP. XXXIX. NICE — HISTORY — - SITUATION — STREETS — HOUSES churches markets — PLACE VICTOR PLACE IM- PERIALE FORT MO NT A LB AN MOLE PORT-CASTLE — “ ARTS — PUBLIC LIBRARY — CHURCH OF S A I N T-ET I E N N E CONVENT OF SATNT-B ARTHELEMY ALOES PALM- TREES CIMIEZ SAINT- PONS — C EM EN ELION AM PH I* THEATRE — CHURCH OF NOTRE-DAME— INSCRIPTIONS, At three o’clock we left the port of Antibes, and at six entered that of Nice. The city of Nice is situated on the beautiful amphitheatre which was seen by us on leaving Antibes. It is of a triangular form ; on the w est it is bounded by a high mountain ; on the north and cast by the Paillon ; and on the south it is washed by the sea. The streets are narrow’, and the height of the houses, which are kept extremely dirty, renders them sombrous and gloomy. Some of those lately built on the sea-shore have a very hand- some appearance ; but the greatest number of them is furnished with no other chimney but that in the kitchen : when the wea- ther is cold they place a brazier in their chambers to warm Millin.] m m S74 millin’* travels in FRANCE. tliem. They neither display arrangement nor taste in the dis- position of their funiitme; the use of porcelain is unknown among them ; they drink their coffee and chocolate out of Delft cups, and the most necessary utensils are of a rude and incon- venient foim. The churches of Nice display nothing remarkable in their appearance ; the principal one, called Saint- liepar ate j is of very common architecture. The butcher-market, which is very spacious and supported by pillars, is situated on the Pailion, which facilitates the con- veying away of all impurities. The bakehouses and shambles are farmed on account of the city, and the revenue hence arising is appropriated to defray the expences of the municipality. At the extremity of the ancient city is the gate on the side of Piedmont, and the Place Napoleon, formerly called Place Victor ; it is surrounded like the Place Royale at Paris, with regular houses, supported by arcades. It is near forty years since the new quarter adjoining the sea was built ; its streets are spacious and well laid out. Here also is the Place Imperiale, where the troops are exercised. I’kis space, planted with two rows of beautiful elms, affords an agieeable promenade during the day. The terrace is a very high platfoi m, supported by a suit of buildings, used as merchants warehouses. The prospect, which extends over a vast expanse of sea, presents a most delightfid spectacle. On descending* towards the west of this beautiful terrace, \ve arrived at a path cut around the rock, the sinuosities of whicli resemble a balcony ; when the sea is agitated, the waves dash against it with such violence, as to throw the water to a con- siderable height, which falling in cascades over these crags, produces an indescribable effect. From the extremity of the mole, we distinguished the beau- tiful mountains bordering the coast of Genoa. The port at which we an ived is altogether the w'ork of arts, nature having only furnished the site on a tongue of land to the eastward of a rock, on which formerly stood the castle, and to the west of the mountain Montboron, ^iiear which stands fort Montalhan. The dress of the females consists of a close jacket, orna- mented, on galat-days, with ribbons or bouquets ; the petticoat is long, but, like the apron, is without any ornament. The common people of both sexes, except at festivals, wear their hair bound wdth a green fillet. Towards Monaco, Vintimiile, and the eastern and southern part of the department, the women DRESS OF THE INHABITANTS OF NICE. 275 sometimes fasten it at the back of their head with a gold or sil- ver bodkin. The dress of the men is very becoming. They wear a small waistcoat which reaches to their girdle ; above it a short habit of the same stuft‘, with short sleeves ; the skirts of this coat are only four inches in length; a girdle of blue or red cloth en- circles their waist ; tlieir breeches is of the same colour as their coat; and their stockings are of blue or brown woollen. Literature is in general very little cultivated in Nice. VVe visited the public library, which contains a great number of theological books, as well as a few other valuable works ; but the greatest part of them has been taken away, and others lost, during its frequent removals. It is open every day from nine in the morning till mid-day ; and in the afternoon, from two till five o’clock. In the evening we repaired to the church of St. Etienne, situated in the middle of some fields, half a league from the city, in search of an inscription related by Jozredi ; but our search proved fruitless, for it had been removed. The square inclosure leading to the entrance, which is sur- rounded by a wall breast-high, is paved with small pebbles, or various coloured stones, disposed in regular order. This Mo- ^ sale work represents a Maltese cross, and several other orna- ments, in the midst of which we distinguished the date 1724. There is similar Mosaic work before most of the churches and convents of the country. We passed near a beautiful domain, formerly belonging to the Count of Chais ; it is situated in the province of Piol, in a delightful exposure, whence we beheld the sea. They here an- nually collect from three to four hundred thousand oranges. The highway is bordered with a hedge of American aloes, of which botanists have made a new genus, under the name of yjgave Americana. This beautiful plant, which is cultivated i>i the green-houses in Paris, and with which the apothecaries decorate their shops as a curiosity, grows spontaneously, not only here, but in several other places in the south of France. VVe arrived at the convent of Saint- Barthelcmy, formerly oc- cupied by the Capuchins, and in which about seven or eight of them still reside, supported on alms, and the produce of a small garden, situated nea*r to the monastery. Here we observed two stone sarcophagi, winch are converted to the purpose of water- troughs. Under a kind of shed, which is at present employed as a laboratory, we observed another, on which is inscribed the following alfccting lines : M m o tlQ MILLINGS TRAVELS IN TRANCE. SPARTAC. PATERNAE. VXORI. RARISS CVIVS. IN. VITA. TANTA. OBSEQVIA EVERT V T. DIGNE. MEMORIA. EIVS ESSET. REAIV NERANDA L. VERDUCC. MATERNVS OBLITVS MEDlioCRlRAIR SVAE. VT. NOAIEN rVS AETERNA ECTIONE CELEBRARETVR HOC MON INSTITVIT On leaving the convent of Saint-Barthelemy, we directed our steps to the countiy house, which formerly belonged to the Count della Valle, in the district of Ray. Near this domain an extensive prospect opens to the view, A weeping willow, surrounded by several groupes of trees, pro- duces a most picturesque effect. Cimiez, on account of its antiquities, and Saint-Pons for its charming prospects, are well deserving the attention of travel- lers ; we proceeded to visit them in company with the obliging M, Cristini. The road which leads to Cimiez is very abrupt ; tiie mountain contains some lime and gypsum quarries. , After ascending about a league and a half, we reached the heights of Cimiez, from whence we had a view of the basin of Nice, and the barren valley through which flows the Paillon. In this val- ley formerly stood the city of Cemenelionj the capita! of a small Greek colony, which was pillaged by the Lombards about the middle of the sixth century, and afterwards totally destroyed by the Saracens. The ruins of the amphitheatre, known to the inhabitants under the name of the The Cave of the Fairies^ first attracted our attention. One arcade still remains entire, underneath which the road passes, and the fragments of several others are still discernable. The Arena remains in a pretty perfect state This amphitheatre might contain eight thousand spectators. At present, the Arena is sown with wheat, and planted with olives. The monastery of ancient Fecollets, formerly inhabited by forty fathers, novv contains only a very small number, who are supported by charity, and the produce of a large garden belong- ing to the monastery. The church, termed Notre-Dame de Cimiez, is at present employed, as a chapel of ease. The principal gate is supported by seven arcades, and the pavement is formed of Mosaic work. Among the offerings, we remarked a large croccfffile, lacerta alligator f L. suspended from the roof. In every age and coun- try, the first collections of natural history were found in the RUINS OF AN AMPHITHEATRK. 277 temples ; as travellers were eager to deposit in them tiiose. curiosities they had collected. Thus we see on medals, fish, suspended in the temples of Neptune ; stag-horns were attached to the gates of those of Diana. Hanno, the Carthagenean also consecrated in the temple of Juno the skin of a Gorgon, which was probably only that of some African ape. W e, besides, fre- quently see, in different churches ,remains of whales ; and some traveller, most probably, here deposited this American crocodile. The porch is decorated by some wretched paintings ; and, among others, Jesus Christ between the two thieves. 'Fhe terrace belonging to the garden of the monastery affords a very agreeable walk. We behold from it the valley watered by the Paillon ; to the left Saint-Pons ; and to the right Nice, with the fortress of Montalban and the sea. On leaving the monastery, we entered the lands which be- longed to the family of Gubernatis, but which are at present possessed by M. de Perreiro, formerly ambassador from the -Ligurian Republic to the French Government. in these grounds we remarked a Roman edifice, and, at a short distance from it, a gallery supported by three arcades, which, we are inclined to believe, must be the remains of the ancient temple of Apollo ; which, according to the legend of St. Pons, stood near the ancient amphitheatre, w'here he suffered martyrdom, though there is nothing certain to indicate the destination of this edifice, nor of the other ruins scattered over the same inclo- sure. In this garden were several inscriptions, if we may rely on the testimony of Jofredi and others, but most of them have now disappeared ; the others are of little importance, and are, besides, so deeply buried in the earth, that it would require much labour to reach them. CHAP. XL. COUNTRY OF NICE HOUSES GARDENS FARMS ORANGES — OLIVES — VI N ES— -CLIMATE — MA N N KKS — ANCIENT NOBLESSE — CLERGY CO M MERGE a M U S K- MENTS MONEY PLANTS MANNERS — ClTlvONS PORT OF MONACO TR O P H Y O F A U G U STU S — CITY OF MONACO VI L LEFR A N C H E — BUILDINGS — R ET U U N TO NICE. In our excursion to Cimiez, Saint-Pons, and Salnt-Partlie- lemy, we entered several farm and country houses, 'ine eui- 278 MILLINT’s travels in FRANCE. tnre and productions liere displayed, all appear singular to those who are not natives of southerrs climes. ~ The houses, which are in general gloomy and ill-ccnstructed, have frequently but one door and window, though their interior be sufficiently capacious. The gardens environing the city are surrounded wdth high walls; the junction of which forms narrow and angular lanes. These gardens are not appropriated, as those near Paris and Tyons, to pleasure, but are wholly devoted to the cultivation of useful trees and herbs. The fields in tlie viciiiity of Nice are not equally well culti- vated as the gardens ; the greatest number of them is inclosed, but the poverty of the farmers is such, that they are obliged to employ themselves in labours extraneous from their farms. As an ass and a goat usually compose their whole live stock, manure is extremely scarce ; to supply the place of which, tisey have frequent resource to irrigation. Oranges are the principal production of their gardens ; some of the trees produce from three to four thousand. Olives are likewise cultivated to a considerable extent in this territory ; besides what is reserved for home consumption, they export a considerable quantity of olive oil, especially to the north of Europe. The climate of Nice Is particularly favourable to valetudinarians during the wanter, w hich is in general remarkably mild. i\t Noel, verdure prevails even at this season ; the trees are loaded with flowers and fruits, and butterdies are everyw'here seen fluttering. If fi 'ost sometimes occurs, which only happens during the coldest days, it is but slight, and soon dissipated by the genial influence of the sun. One must be sensible what attractions such a tem- perature must have for natives of northern regions, and that a sky ever clear, serene, and bespangled during the night with innmnerable stars, must have peculiar charms for an inhabitant of the banks of the Thames. From the time of Smollet, W'ho first made known to his countrymen the mildness of this delightful climate, it became the fashion in England to resort to Nice diiriog the w^inter. The English generally took up their abode in the Fanxbourg de la Cro/x, where the liouses and the gardens attached to them are extremely pleasant and agreeable. However mild and regular the winter be at Nice, yet during tlie spring the weather is variable and uncertain. It must not be supposed, as some people erroneously imagine, that the heat during the summer is insupportable, since the wind from the west serves to temper it, particularly if care be taken to keep lie windows open. CLIMATE OF NICE, &C. €79 Though the mamiers of the inhabitants of Nice are more similar to those which prevail in France than in Italy, yet we beheld among them some Italian customs. M. Sulzer is of opinion, that some traces of cicesbeism was evident in this city ; but they have wholly disappeared since the period of the revo- lution. The noblesse, with the exception of three or four families, were extremely poor ; and their condition has not been melio- rated by the recent changes in the government. I'he only dis- tinction between them and the other citizens consists in their wearing a long sword ; and the people appear to regard them with great respect, however wretched may be their appearance. There are some very ancient families in Nice, such as the Grimaldi's, Gubernati’s, &c. but in general, they are of very recent origin. Tile clergy were very numerous, but held no very distin- guished rank. The bishop was usually a monk, and appeared most commonly dressed in the habit of his order ; he enjoyed only a trifling revenue. The present French prelate, JM. Co- lonna, is highly distinguished by his piety and charity. The old ecclesiastics are still enabled to live by the produce of their masses; which, luckily for them, are extremely prevalent among this superstitious people. There are no commercial houses of any consequence in Nice, but several respectable merchants. Before the revolution, this city afforded a refuge to the many individuals who fled from INIarseilles and Genoa, in order to elude their creditors. At present, it is the residence of a great number of Jews, who are not, however, in general, very opulent. The manufacturers depend on Marseilles and Genoa for the raw^ materia s. The port does not admit of the entrance of large vessels, con- sequently their maritime commerce is inconsiderable. The money in circulation was the coin of Piedmont ; at present it is that of France. The inhabitants of Nice are of gentle and peaceable manners: quarrels are rare among them; they are gay and lively, which they owe to the climate under which they live. In general they are rather well-looking, and the race miglit certainly be brought to greater perfection, if they had more abundant and bette nourishment. Their greatest pleasure consists in dancing. "idle botanist may And a continual source of amusement in the gardens and environs of Nice. The most beautiful suh- alpine plants grow in abundance on the surrounding hills, ai:d the valleys teem with tlie plants and vegetables of the warmest climates. 2S0 MILLINGS travels IN FRANCE. The tarantula is found not only at Nice, but in some other places of Provence : it is now well known, that the terrible effects attributed to this animal are altogether imaginary. On the 17th of June, we embarked on board the Ajiguille, and proceeded to Menton, the most distant point of our intended excursion. This place is small, but the appearance of the houses announces the riches of the inhabitants. We entered the church, which is extremely neat, and where we saw a great number of young girls engaged in reciting prayers. Citron trees, citrus medica, L. form the principal riches of this happy climatie. The fruit is exported to France, England, Holland, and even to Flamburgh ; where they are commonly sold at twenty-live franks the thousand, in time of peace, and twenty-eight during w^ar. After passing a few hours at Menton, \ve embarked, and very soon arrived at Monaco. Our object in this excursion was to visit the Trophy of Au- gustus, to which the Cure, M. Rosetti, obligingly conducted us, it is a high tower, raised on a square basement : upon this tower, it is said, was placed the statue of Augustus, to which it was necessary to ascend by tw o stair-cases, supported by co- lumns of the Doric order, and which were decorated towards the north and south by trophies ; but it is impossible to judge of the accuracy of this description, as there at present remains of this tower only a heap of stones. After taking some repose, on our return from Monaco, we proceeded to take a view of the city, the entrance to which is by a paved rampart, having six gates. In the evening w'e repaired to Villefranche. Nothing can be more elegant than the port of this city, and the edifices which surround it. The city w^as built by Charles II. king of Sicily and count of Provence. The temperature of Villefranche is the mildest imaginable, and may well be compared to that of Naples. The olive trees here attain to great beauty, as well as all the plants and vegetables peculiar to southern climates. After visiting Villefranche, we again entered our bark, and doubled the point of Montalban, which at once defends Ville- fanche and Nice, and in the course of an hour reached this last city. '3s; / i