HANDICRAFT SERIES. A Series of Practical Manuals. Edited by PAUL N. HASLUCK, Editor of "Work." Price 50cts. each, post paid. House Decoration. Comprising Whitewashing, Paperhanging Painting, etc. With 79 Bngravings and Diagrams. Contents.— Colour and Faints. Pigments, Oils, Driers, Varnishes, etc. Tools used by Painters. How to Mix Oil Paints. Distemper or Tempera Painting. Whitewashing and Decoratinir a Oiling u~:_»:-- »» Room Emb , , . - Boc and Re-V Stitc and S Hon l- shoes ip |p snoes. jjj Dr. William H. Trueman's jjj %™« FRANKLIN INSTITUTE LIBRARY PHILADELPHIA, PA. Class- Book.. Accession .../..iy..\J..->Z).^5 Given by lilfci /hw^£*<*U"< fovfc. S(U£^uUJ jjt of Fixing mem. r.namelling. Repairing. Decorative Designs of All Ages for All Purposes. With 277 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents.— Savage Ornament. Egyptian Ornament. Assyrian Ornament. Greek Ornament. Roman Ornament. Early Christian Ornament. Arabic Ornament. Celtic and Scandinavian Ornaments. Mediaeval Ornament. Renascence and Modern Ornaments. Chinese Ornament. Persian Ornament. Indian Ornament. Japanese Ornament. Mounting and Framing: Pictures. With 240 Engravings, etc. Contents. — Making Picture Frames. Notes on Art Frames. Picture Frame Cramps. Making Oxford Frames. Gilding Picture Frames. Methods of Mounting Pictures. Making Photograph Frames. Frames covered with Plush and Cork. Hanging and Packing Pictures. Smiths' Work. With 211 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents.— Forges and Appliances. Hand Tools. Drawing Down and Up- setting. Welding and Punching. Conditions of Work : Principles of Forma- tion. Bending and Ring Making. Miscellaneous Examples of Forged Work. Cranks, Model Work, and Die Forging. Home-made Forges. The Manipula- tion of Steel at the Forge. (Continued on next page.) DAVID McKAY, Publisher, 610 South Washington Square, Philadelphia. HANDICRAFT SERIES {continued). Class Working by Heat and Abrasion. With 300 Engravings. and Diagrams. Contents. — Appliances used in Glass Blowing. Manipulating Glass Tubing. Blowing Bulbs and Flasks. Jointing Tubes to Bulbs forming Thistle Funnels, etc. Blowing and Etching Glass Fancy Articles ; Embossing and Gilding Flat Surfaces. Utilising Broken Glass Apparatus ; Boring Holes in, and Riveting Glass. Hand-working of Telescope Specula. Turning, Chipping, and Grinding G ass. The Manufacture of Glass. Building Model Boats. With 168 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. — Building Model Yachts. Rigging and Sailing Model Yachts. Making and Fitting Simple Model Boats. Building a Model Atlantic Liner. Vertical Engine for a Model Launch. Model Launch Engine with Reversing Gear. Making a Show Case for a Model Boat. Electric Bells, How to Make and Fit Them. With 162 En- gravings and Diagrams. Contents. — The Electr c Current and the Laws that Govern it. Current Conductors used in Electric-Bell Work. Wiring for Electric Bells. Elaborated Systems of Wiring ; Burglar Alarms. Batteries for Electric Bells. The Con- struction of Electric Bells, Pushes, and Switches. Indicators for Electric-Bell Systems. Bamboo Work. With 177 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. — Bamboo : Its Sources and Uses. How to Work Bamboo. Bamboo Table?. Bamboo Chairs and Seats. Bamboo Bedroom Furniture. Bamboo Hall Racks and Stands. Bamboo Music Racks. Bamboo Cabinets and Book- cases. Bamboo Window Blinds. Miscellaneous Articles of Bamboo. Bamboo Mail Cart. Taxidermy. With 108 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. — Skinning Birds. Stuffing and Mounting Birds. Skinning and Stuffing Mammals. Mounting Animals' Horned Heads : Polishing and Mount- ing Horns. Skinning, Stuffing, and Casting Fish. Pieserving, Cleaning, and Dyeing Skins. Preserving Insects, and Birds' Eggs. Cases for Mounting Specimens. Tailoring. With 180 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. — Tailors' Requisites and Methods of Stitching. Simple Repairs and Pressing. Refining, Repocketing, and Recollaring. How to Cut and Make Trousers. How to Cut and Make Vests. Cutting and Making Lounge and Reefer Jackets. Cutting and Making Morning and Frock Coats. Photographic Cameras and Accessories. Comprising How to Make Cameras, Dark Sliles, Shutters, and Stands. With 160 Illustrations. Contents. — Photographic Lenses and How to Test them. Modern Half-plate Cameras. Hand and Pocket Cameras. Ferrotype Cameras. Stereoscopic Cameras. Enlarging Cameras. Dark Slides. Cinematograph Management. Optical Lanterns. Comprising The Construction and Management of Optical Lanterns and the Making of Slides. With 160 Illustrations. Contents. — Single Lanterns. Dissolving View lanterns. Illuminant for Optical Lanterns. Optical Lantern Accessories. Conducting a Limelight Lantern Exhibition. Experiments with Optical Lanterns. Painting Lantern Slides. Photographic Lantern Slides. Mechanical Lantern Slides. Cinemato- graph Management. Engraving Metals. With Numerous Illustrations. Content*. — Introduction and Terms used. Engravers' Tools and their Uses. Elementary Exercises in Engraving. Engraving Plate and Precious Metals. Engraving Monograms. Transfer Processes of Engraving Metals. Engraving Name Plates. Engraving Coffin Plates. Engraving Steel Plates. Chasing and Embossing Metals. Etching Metals. Basket Work. With 189 Illustrations. Contents. — Tools and Materials. Simple Baskets. Grocer's Square Baskets. Round Baskets. Oval Baskets. Flat Fruit Baskets. Wicker Elbow Chairs. Basket Bottle-casings. Doctors' and Chemists' Baskets. Fancy Basket Work. Sussex Trug Basket. Miscellaneous Basket Work. Index DAVID McKAY, Publisher, 610 South Washington Square, Philadelphia. HANDICRAFT SERIES (continued). Bookbinding. With 125 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. — Bookbinders' Appliances. Folding Pri .ted Book Sheets. Beat- ing and Sewing. Rounding, Backing, and Cover Cutting. Cutting Book Edges. Covering Books. Cloth-bound Books, Pamphlets, etc. Account Books, Ledgers, etc. Coloring, Sprinkling, and Marbling Book Edges. Marbling Book Papers. Gilding Book Edges. Sprinkling and Tree Marbling Book Covers. Lettering, Gilding, and Finishing Book Covers. Index. Bent Iron Work. Including Elementary Art Metal Work. Witli 269 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. — Tools and Materials. Bending and Working Strip Iron. Simple Exercises in Bent Iron. Floral Ornaments for Bent Iron Work. Candlesticks. Hall Lanterns. Screens, Grilles, etc. Table Lamps. Suspended Lamps and Flower Bowls. Photograph Frames. Newspaper Rack. Floor Lamps; Miscellaneous Examples. Index. Photography. With 70 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. — The Camera and its Accessories. The Studio and Darkroom Plates. Exposure. Developing and Fixing Negatives. Intensification an( Reduction of Negatives. Portraiture and Picture Composition. Flashligh Photography. Retouching Negatives Processes of Printing from Negatives Mounting and Finishing Prints. Copying and Enlarging. Stereoscopic Photography. Ferrotype Photography. Index. Upholstery. With 162 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. — -Upholsterers' Materials. Upholsterers' Tools and Appliances Webbing, Springing, Stuffing, and Tufting. Making Seat Cushions and Squabs; Upholstering an Easy Chair. Upholstering Couches and Sofas. Upholsterinj Footstools, Fenderettes, etc. Miscellaneous Upholstery. Mattress Makinj and Repairing. Fancy Upholstery. Renovating and Repairing Upholstered Furniture. Planning and Laying Carpets and Linoleum. Index. Leather Working. With 152 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. — Qualities and Varieties of Leather. Strap Cutting and Making Letter Cases and Writing Pads. Hair Brush and Collar Cases. Hat Cases Banjo and Mandoline Cases. Bags. Portmanteaux and Travelling Trunks Knapsacks and Satchels. Leather Ornamentation. Footballs. Dyeinjj Leather. Miscellaneous Examples of Leather Work. Index. HameSS Making. With 197 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. — Harness Makers' Tools. Harness Makers' Materials. SimpH Exercises in Stitching. Looping. Cart Harness. Cart Collars. Cart Saddles! Fore Gear and Leader Harness. Plough Harness. Bits, Spurs, Stirrups, and Harness Furniture. Van and Cab Harness. Index. Saddlery. With 99 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. — Gentleman's Riding Saddle. Panel for Gentleman's Saddle Ladies' Side Saddles. Children's Saddles or Pilches. Saddle Cruppers, BreasM plates, and other Accessories. Riding Bridles. Breaking-down Tackle Head Collars. Horse Clothing. Knee-caps and Miscellaneous Articles. Repairinj Harness and Saddlery. Re-lining Collars and Saddles. Riding and Driving Whips. Superior Set of Gig Harness. Index. Knotting and Splicing, Ropes and Cordage. With 208 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents.— Introduction. Rope Formation. Simple and Useful Knots! Eye Knots, Hitches and Bends. Ring Knots and Kope Shortenings. Ties and Lashings. Fancy Knots. Rope Splicing. Working Coruage. Haml mock Making. Lashings and Ties for Scaffolding. Splicing and Socketing Wire Ropes. Index. Beehives and Beekeepers' Appliances. With 155 Engravings] and Diagrams. Contents. — Introduction. A Bar-Frame Beehive. Temporary Beehive! Tiering Bar-Frame Beehive. The " W. B. C." Beehive. Furnishing and« Stocking a Beehive. Observatory Beehive for Permanent Use. Observatory! Beehive for Temporary Use. Inspection Case for Beehives. Hive for Rear-] ing Queen Bees. Super-Clearers. Bee Smoker. Honey Extractors. Wax! Extractors. Beekeepers' Miscellaneous Appliances. Index. DAVID McKAY, Publisher, 610 South Washington Square, Philadelphia! BOOKBINDING 777/ NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS AND DIAGRAMS EDITED BY PAUL N. HASLUOK EDITOR OF "WORK" AND "BUILDING WORLD" AUTHOR OF " HANDYBOOKS FOR HANDICRAFTS," ETC. ETC. PHILADELPHIA DAVID McKAY, Publisher 610, SOUTH WASHINGTON SQUARE 1906 PREFACE. This Handbook contains, in a form convenient for everyday use, a comprehensive digest of the infor- mation on Bookbinding, scattered over nearly twenty thousand columns of Work— one of the weekly journals it is my fortune to edit— and supplies concise in- formation on the details of the subjects of which it treats. In preparing for publication in book form the mass of relevant matter contained in the volumes of Work, much had to be arranged anew, altered, and largely rewritten. The contributions of many are so blended that the writings of individuals cannot be dis- tinguished for acknowledgment. A large part of the contents was written by the Foreman Bookbinder in a London firm, and the substance of a series of articles written by Mr. Win. Norman Brown has also been incorporated. Keaders who may desire additional information respecting special details of the matters dealt with in this Handbook, or instructions on kindred subjects, should address a question to Work, so that it may be answered in the columns of that journal. P. N. HASLUCK. La Belle Sauvage, London. 79 3^3 CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. — Bookbinders' Appliances 9 II.— Folding Printed Book Sheets .... 33 III. — Beating and Sewing 38 IV. — Rounding, Backing, and Cover Cutting . . 48 V.— Cutting Book Edges 55 VI. — Covering Books 58 VII. — Cloth-bound Books, Pamphlets, etc. . . 66 VIII. — Account Books, Ledgers, etc 72 • IX. — Colouring, Sprinkling, and Marbling Book Edges 79 X.— Marbling Book Papers 92 XI.— Gilding Book Edges 101 XII. — Sprinkling and Tree Marbling Book Covers . 110 XIII. — Lettering, Gilding, and Finishing Book Covers 115 Index 156 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, FIO. PAGE 1 . — Beating Hammer . . 10 2. — Standing Press . 3. — Simple Press 4. — Sewing Press 5_8._Details of Home-made Sewing Press . 9.— Sewing Press 10. — Sewing Press 11. — Lying Press 12. — Lying Press 13. — Lying Press and Plough . 14. — Cramping Screw for Lying Press .... 15. — Combined Lying Press and Box 16-17.— Details of Home-made Plough .... 18. — Elevation of Home-made Plough .... 19. — Plan of Home-made Plough 20. — Wedges and Chisel of Home-made Plough . 21. — Plough .... 22. — Sliding Block for Plough . 23. — Plough Knife 24. — Plough .... 1 25.— Strawboard Cutter . 26. — Gauge of Strawboard Cutter .... 27. — Clamp of Strawboard Cutter .... 28. — Printed Book Sheet . 29. — Printed Sheet, First Fold . 30. — Printed Sheet, Second Fold 31. — Printed Sheet, Third Fold 32. -Saw Kerfs in Back of Book 33. — Sewing Book 34. — Method of Sewing Book - " Two on " 35. _ Method of Backing Book . 36. — Book and Backing Boards in Lying Press 37. — Scratching-up Tool . 38. —Book Tied up for Cutting 39^— Tightening Leather on Back of Book . 40 — Turning in Leather at Head and Tail of Book [41.— Turning in Corners of Leather .... 42. — Section through Head Band and Cap . . . 43. — Book Tied up in Boards . 00 FIG. PAGE 44. — Book with Square Lettering Pieces .... 45. — Book with Oval Lettering Piece .... 46. — Book with Lettering Piece at the Head . . 47. — Side of Cover of Half- bound Book 48. — Sprayer for Colouring Book Edges .... 49. — Marbling Comb . 50. — Marbling Comb . 51. — Marbling Comb . 52. — Marbling Trough 53. — Marbling Trough and Colour Pots . -Marbling Book Edges -Nonpareil Marble Wave Nonpareil Marble Fancy Dutch Marble . yt> Italian Marble ... 96 Dutch Antique Marble . 97 -Antique Spot Marblo . 97 West End Marble . . 98 -Machine-pattern Marble . 99 —Gilder's Press . . .102 54. - 55. - 56. — Beversed Nonpareil Marble 94 57. — Wave Nonnareil Marble . 95 -Steel Scraper forBookEdges 102 —Gilder's Cushion . . 103 -Gilder's Knife . . .104 Gilder's Knife . . .104 ■Gilder's Tip . . .105 -Gilder's Burnisher . .'105 ■Sprinkling on Panels . . Ill -Book between Marbling Rods 113 73. — Finisher's Press . . 116 74. — Finisher's Stove . . 116 75. — Fillet 117 76. — Lines made with Fillets . 117 77. — Lines made with Fillets . 117 78. — Pallet . . . .117 79-84.— Pallet Patterns . . 118 85.— Line Tools . . .118 S6-S7.— Line Tools . . .119 SS.— Lines made with Gouges . 119 89. — Lines made with Gouges . 119 90. — Small Finishing Tool . 120 91. _ Corner Pattern . . .120 92. — Corner Pattern . . . 120 93. — Centre Patterns . . .120 91.— Centre Patterns . . .120 95_98. —Cover Ornaments . 121 99.— Finished Back of Book . 121 8 Bookbinding. FI °. PAGE 100 —Letter Holder . . .123 101. — Devil for Preparing Glaire 124 102. -Polisher . . . .125 103. — Polisher . . . .125 104. — Method of Holding Letter- ing Tool . . . .128 105. — Method of Applying Pallet 129 106. — Method of Spacing Letters 130 107. — Scale for Spacing Letters . 130 108 Type Holder . . .131 109. — Back of Book . . .133 110. — Lettering Press . . .135 111. — Heater Box . . . 137 112. — Blocking Plate . . .137 113. — Half Design for Album Cover . . . .138 114. — Half Design for Album Cover . , , .139 PAOB 115. — Part Border of Cover Design 140 116. — Part Inside Border of Cover Design . . . .140 117. — Corner of Cover Design . 141 118. — InsideCornerofCoverDesign 141 119. — Tray or Force . . .143 120. — Part Design of Hand-tooled Morocco Cover . . 147 121. — Part Design of Hand-tooled Morocco Cover . . 149 122. — Part Design of Hand-tooled Morocco Cover . . 151 123. — Hand-tooled Morocco Cover of Bible . . . 153 124. — First Pressing with Grain- ing Plate .... 155 125. — Second Pressing with Graining Plate . 155 BOOKBINDING. CHAPTER I. bookbinders' appliances. Bookbinding is a term that is popularly applied to any process for making a book by fastening together printed or imprinted sheets of paper, and provid- ing them in this compact form with a suitable covering. The term, used in this sense, covers such widely different productions as a cheap cloth- or paper-covered novel and a costly volume bound in leather. These two books are representative pro- ducts of the two great divisions of the bookbinding industry as carried on at the present day. Each division may, indeed, almost be called a distinct industry ; for, though the means employed and the results obtained in both cases bear on the surface a certain resemblance to each other, the manner in which the work is carried out, and the result aimed at, are in both cases fundamentally different. A bound book is, technically, a book bound in leather. It is more solid in appearance, is better sewn, the leaves lie more compactly together, and the book opens more readily than a cloth-boarded book. Even a person without any technical know- ledge is struck with the difference between a leather-bound volume and a cloth-boarded book. While the former will last for years and resist hard usage, the latter serves a temporary purpose only, and rough usage soon reduces it to a collection of loose leaves, scarcely held together by a few tangled threads. Belonging also to the division of bound 10 Bookbinding. books are half-bound books, of which the back maj be of leather, or of cloth or other material used in place of leather, and the sides of cloth or paper. Other minor but not unimportant differences that distinguish bound books from cloth-boarded books will be explained in due course. The tools used in bookbinding first will be described. A cloth-boarded book can be produced with the same tools (though less in number) that are employed for a leather-bound volume, but the latter cannot be produced with the appliances used for the former. Before beginning the study of this subject, the amateur is advised to obtain two old leather-bound Fig. 1. — Beating Hammer. books. Take one of these books to pieces carefully, bit by bit ; and whilst doing so note every contriv- ance used for holding the book together, and fre- quently compare the partially dissected book with the other volume, which should be kept intact. The value of this object lesson will be realised when making the first attempt at binding a book. A book may be bound by the amateur with the aid of comparatively few and simple tools. It has not, therefore, been thought necessary to describe here the many more or less expensive machines and appliances at present used in bookbinding. Leather binding is largely done by hand, the material em- Bookbinders' Appliances. i i ployed, the manner in which the work is done, and the limited demand for leather compared with cloth books, precluding the use of machinery to any con- siderable extent. On the other hand, the binding of cloth-boarded books is considerably helped, and, in some cases, almost wholly done, by machinery ; because cloth books must be produced rapidly, and in large numbers (often tens of thousands, all of one size and pattern), and at a comparatively low cost. The following are some of the tools that will be required for leather binding : — The folder or folding-stick is a piece of flat bone, about 6 in. long and rather more than 1 in. wide, with rounded ends. The folder, as its name implies, is useH for folding into page size the printed sheets received from the printer. The beating hammer and stone are adjuncts of an old-fashioned bookbinder's shop, and have been replaced by the rolling machine. The amateur, however, unless he can get his work rolled for him, must use the beating hammer, and he should en- deavour to obtain one that has been specially made Fig. 2.— Standing Press. 12 Bookbinding. for the purpose. The beating hammer weighs from ? . t° 18 m0re 0r less bell -shaped, and has a short handle (see Fig. 1, p. io). A stone or iron slab will also be required. The slab must be level and perfectly smooth, and it should be firmly bedded When not in use the surface of the slab should be - — - ^ oiau aiiuuia De kept covered. It will be found convenient to bed the slab m a box of sand, and to provide the box with a cover. The standing press is used to compress books during the process of binding, and there are several Simple .Press. different forms of it. The typical standing press (Fig. 2, p. 11) consists of vertical pillars, a long stout screw, a platen, and the bed. A letter-copying press represents, roughly and on a small scale, a bookbinder's standing press, but in the bookbinder's press the power is applied by a long iron bar that is inserted in holes drilled in a ball of iron that forms the bottom of the screw. The folded sections of the book are piled upon the bed of the press, and the platen is screwed down as tightly as possible by the combined strength of two or more men. A stout copying press, however, can be used Bookbinders 1 Appliances. 13 for bookbinding on a small scale, smooth slabs of iron or hard wood called pressing boards, not less than the size of the book, being placed between each three or four sections. Or, if a copying press or similar contrivance is not available, heavy weights may be laid on the folded sheets, and the pressure continued for twenty-four hours, or longer if necessary. A small press, like that shown by Fig. 4. — Sewing Press. Fig. 3, sometimes may be bought second-hand, and would be a valuable acquisition. The pressing boards should be of some hard wood, generally beech, planed perfectly smooth on both surfaces, and rectangular in shape. Iron plates sometimes are used. The sewing press is not a press in the modem sense of the term, as it is not used for purposes of compression ; it is a contrivance by which the bands 1 4 Bookbinding. or cords upon which a book is sewn are kept at tension and in their proper places, while the sections or sheets of a book are sewn to them. The usual form of the sewing press is shown by Fig. 4, p. 13, and its use will be described later. In Fig. 4 are shown the keys employed to hold down the cords. A home-made sewing press is illustrated by Fig. 5. The bottom board A may be made of 1-in. stuff, 1 ft. 9 in. long by 1 ft. broad, with uprights c, 10 in. high by \\ in. by f in. The top piece B, shown separately in Fig. 6, should be of 1-in. oak, 2 ft. 3 in. long, 1 in. square, with corners rounded, and ■n Wo •c Fig. 5 Fig. 6 ~VJm IS Fig. 8 Figs. 5 to 8. — Details of Home-made Sewing Press. 2\ in. wide at the ends. The cross-pieces E under- neath measure lj in. by | in. The uprights can be either hinged or fixed with iron plates screwed on from outside. The key (Fig. 7) is of f-in. ash, cut to the shape shown, %\ in. long, l\ in. wide, and \ in. wide in the middle, and with a saw-cut for the string. Three keys are wanted. The cutting and backing boards (sections of which are shown at A and B in Fig. 8) can be 1 ft. 3 in. long by 3-J in. wide. Another sewing press is shown by Fig. 9. It is simply a flat bottom with two screwed uprights, and cross-bar with nuts below for the purpose of keeping the bands or strings tight while the book is Bookbinders' Appliances. 15 being sewn. The slit immediately below the cross- bar and between the uprights allows of strings going through and being fastened on the bottom with a tack or anything handy. A wooden screw upright is preferable, and the ends need not be glued into the bottom, but fitted so that they can be taken out for convenience, and the whole stowed away in small compass. Differing only in detail is the sew- ing press illustrated by Fig. 10, p. 16. The lying press (Fig. 11, p. 16) (more commonly called the laying press) may also be termed the back- Fig'. 9. — Sewing Press. ing press and the cutting press, as both the opera- tions of backing a book and of cutting the edges are performed at it. For cutting, is kept uppermost the side that has on the left cheek the two guide rods between which the plough works, as shown at Fig. 12, p. 17. For backing, the press is turned over, a.nd the plain sides of the cheeks are placed upper- most. This press is worked by a short unattached iron press pin. A lying press of slightly different construction is illustrated by Fig. 13, p. 18, which shows a plough, 1 6 Bookbinding. a, in position also. The construction of this parti- cular plough will be dealt with later. This press con- sists of six essential parts— two boards, two screws, Fig. 11 Fig. 10.— Sewing Press. Fig. 11.— Lying Press. and two drilled and tapped handles. To make it, first procure a piece of board 18 in. long, 6 in. broad, and \\ in. thick; then get another one of the same length and thickness, but only 5$ in- broad. Plane these perfectly true and fasten Bookbinders' Appliances. tj together temporarily, with two faces together and one long edge of each piece flush with that of the other, and bore a hole right through for the screw, which must now be made. The screw may be of wood, similar to the screw of a carpenter's vice ; but an iron one answers the purpose quite as well. Threaded pieces of iron wire (f in. -or ^ in.), about 8 in. long, have one end each screwed into a plate of iron 1 in. or 2 in. across, either round or square, Fig. 12. — Lying Press. and about ■§• in. thick (see Fig. 14, p. 18) ; the end of the screw is burred over to hold more firmly. The iron or brass handles are tapped sufficiently large to allow them to be screwed on with comparative lever on each one enables sufficient power to be obtained to press the books well together. Having fitted together the parts of the screw, take off the handles, and pass the screw through the back board, and fasten it in place by passing small screws through the holes in the plate. These screws will keep the large screw from slipping backwards B Bookbinders' Appliances. 19 and forwards, and also from turning round while the press is in use. Now put on the front and screw the boards together with the handles. Turn the press over so as to have the edges that are level uppermost, and then with a broad-set saw cut notches about \ in. deep at intervals of about 2 in. apart right across the two boards, as shown at the bottom of Fig. 13. The lying press itself is com- plete, but for convenience is attached to a support which serves as a guide to keep the books perfectly level while arranging them for binding. To make the support, procure a piece of board about J in. thick and 14 in. by 12. in., and a piece of 1-in. board 14 in. by 8 in., and screw them together at right angles by their longer edges. The press is sup- ported on the larger piece, the 14-in. by 8-in. piece standing upright on edge. On top of the back board of the press is laid a piece of wood 5 in. by 14 in. by \\ in., and this is screwed to the upright back of the support to form a continuation of the back board of the press. It has been remarked that a press must have a good support if required to work with convenience. So many things are done with this appliance — press- ing, cutting, backing, screwing-out, screwing-in, etc. — that as it is not very heavy it is always shift- ing on the table or bench, and thus causing trouble. To remedy all these inconveniences, one method is to make a combined press and box. In a box from 2 ft. 6 in. to 3 ft. long, 2 ft. wide, and 2 ft. deep, fix two pieces of beech wood (5 in. by 4 in.) A and B (Fig. 15, p. 20) of the same length as the inside mea- surement of box. The wood must be planed straight and squared up ; bore holes for the screws c, say lj in. diameter. Inside the box, on ends, nail two bars of wood d (as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 15), 5 in. from top, so that the front and back pieces of the press, when placed on them, will come level with the top of the box. Obtain iron screws 20 Bookbinding. and nuts to fit, say 1 in. or li in. diameter, of the shape shown at c, and on the nuts have tails with two holes for screw-nails to fasten into the press bar, cutting a hole in the wood so that the nut may be inserted flat. The plough is the implement by which ordinarily the edges of well-bound books are cut. The plough consists of a couple of wooden cheeks, which can be brought together or drawn apart by rotating the handle and screw. To the bottom of the right cheek Bookbinders' Appliances. 21 is fixed a plough knife, which is a blade of well-tem- pered steel secured to the under surface of the right- hand cheek of the plough by a screwed bolt and nut. Fig. 12 shows the plough as it lies ready for use in the cutting press. The book is carefully screwed up in the press, and the edges of the book are cut by sliding the plough forwards and backwards. The guiding groove on the plough is on the left-hand side of the press. On the right-hand side of the plough is a handle that turns the screw by which the knife is pushed laterally across the edges of the book every time the plough is thrust forward. Plough knifes are shown at A and b, Fig. 12, p. 17. Figs. 16 and 17.— Details of Home-made Plough Home-made ploughs are serviceable tools, and can be constructed from simple material, such as a chisel, some pieces of wood, and a few screws. Knock off the handle from an ordinary ^-in. chisel having a "shoulder" near the haft, and replace it with a cork ; cut to the shape of Fig. 16 a piece of thin wood (say \ in. thick) 2^ in. in breadth, its length depending on the length of the chisel. Place the chisel on the wood so that the cutting end over- hangs about If in. ; at the other end mark where the shoulder of the chisel touches the wood, and cut across just above the mark so that the shoulder falls over the edge and allows the chisel to lie flat on the wood. Cut another piece of wood thicker than the last (of full £-in. stuff) to the shape of Fig. 17. Fig. 16 Fig. 17 22 Bookbinding. This will be, say, 2j in. in breadth, \\ in. along its parallel sides, and 2£ in. in extreme length. Cut a groove down the middle as wide as the widest part of the chisel and as deep generally as the chisel is thick, but a little deeper than this towards the end Fig. 18.— Elevation of Home-made Plough. Fig. 19.— Plan of Home-made Plough. B. Put the second piece of wood, groove down- wards, on the first one so that the square end B of Fig. 17 rests upon the portion marked a of Fig. 16, allowing the pointed end to overhang. Screw the two pieces together from underneath, taking care Bookbinders' Appliances. 23 to countersink the screw-heads. In the tunnel thus formed insert the chisel with its bevelled edge upwards. as it must always be when in use, and see that it has a rather loose fit. If it is all right, the cutting edge will project about f in. at one end, and the shoulder will just fall over the edge at the other end. In a piece of wood c (Fig. 18), measuring, say, 2 in. by 4 in. by £ in., make a groove of the same width as before, but a trifle deeper than the groove is at B (Fig. 17). Screw this last piece to the foundation A (Fig. 18) so that the groove en- Fig. 20.— Wedges and Chisel of Home-made Plough. closes the chisel just below the shoulder when the chisel is lying in the position above described. Insert a little wedge above the chisel beneath G (Fig. 19) so that the blade is prevented from moving up and down ; also put in wedges at d and b, and one above the chisel at f (see Fig. 20). The whole will then be perfectly rigid, and the chisel will be firmly fixed in position, though, by taking out the wedges, it can be withdrawn readily for the purpose of sharpening it. Being thus easily removable, it is as useful as ever for other purposes than cutting book edges. . The body of the plough is now complete. It is, 2 4 Bookbinding. of course, intended to be pushed to and fro upon the right cheek of the press ; but the tool, as it stands, will not cut straight through so as to leave a nice flat surface, but will rise until it has made a "hog's-back." To prevent this, provide a bar of wood H (Figs. 18 and 19), which should be fixed at one end to the top G of the plough, and should rest at the other end on a guide-rail J fixed to the top face of the left cheek of the press. The bar should be rigid, say of J in. stuff about 8 in. long, and be fixed to the plough with two screws. The top sur- face of the rail must be level with the top face of B (see Fig. 18) ; the easiest way to effect this will be to make the rail j of the same stuff as Fig. 17, and let it stand at each end on feet l (Fig. 18), made of the same stuff as Fig. 16. The bar will then lie quite horizontal across the press. Notice, too, that the rail j should be set back 1 in. or more from the inner edge of the left cheek, otherwise it will inter- fere with the " backing " operations. In working, grasp the body of the plough with the right hand, and with the left keep the end k (Figs; 18 and 19) of the bar always touching the rail. When it is desired to work the plough out- wards, set the detached end of bar K a little out- wards so that the bar shall be at a slight angle, as shown in Fig. 19. Keep it at that angle, and move the plough from the near end of the book to the farther end, pressing the chisel edge quite lightly against the book. The first finger of the left hand, as it presses against the side of the rail, will regu- late to a great extent the depth of the cut. If the woodwork has been properly executed, it will be possible to work the plough both backwards and for- wards by simply alternating the left end of the bar ; but if there is any unevenness in the woodwork, the chisel edge will not travel both ways in identically the same line, but will make two separate cuts. In such a case the plough must be worked one way Bookbinders' Appliances. 2 5 only — it will not matter which. The edge of the chisel, as used in this case, should act with a draw- ing cut like that of a knife, and not with a thrusting cut like that of a chisel as ordinarily used. Be care- ful, therefore, not to incline the bar more than is shown in the illustration. It is of the greatest importance that the chisel edge should be kept very sharp and in good shape by means of grindstone and oilstone. It is also important that the book edges be screwed up tight in the press. If the press used is an amateur con- trivance of 1-in. stuff worked with screw bolts, as shown by Figs. 18 and 19, fix a little platform for the plough to run along upon the top of the right press cheek, and support, the rail on brackets M Fig. 21.— Plough. Fig. 22.— Sliding Block for Plough. fixed to the outer side of the left cheek. A cutting board of some sort (not shown) must be placed against the left side of the book. The plough shown by Fig. 21 is for use with the lying press shown by Fig. 13, p. 18. It has a screw A made by threading from one end to the other a piece of iron wire about No. 4 b.w.g., 8 in. long. Fix a washsr at f with a bit of solder, leaving enough of the wire projecting beyond it to pass through the hole in the flat bar and for a thumb-bolt e to screw on. The wing-nut can be made of brass, with a rounded neck and flat wings. Drill and tap it to screw tightly on to the wire, and leave it before fixing it on while the bar B is made. Procure 8 in. of J-in. by \ in. flat iron, and bend about f-in. up at one end, as shown in the sketch. File it up Fig. 21 Fig. 22 26 Bookbinding. perfectly true and smooth all over, and then drill a hole at f for the screw to pass through easily, and drill and countersink two holes at the other end for the heads of two screws to drop in. o (Fig. 21) is the sliding block, and D is an end view of the runner block. It is important that the sliding block (Fig. 22, p. 25) be accurate. Get a block of brass 1 in. by 1 in. by \\ in., carefully square it up, and then round the top corners a little, as illus- trated. Cut an oblong hole \ in. by \ in. at B for the bar B (Fig. 21) to pass through. If two holes (not quite \ in. in diameter) are drilled through side by side, it will be easy, with a small chisel and file, to cut the hole to the desired shape. See that it fits the bar well— not loosely— and then drill and tap a hole at A the same size as the screw already made. If the block is slid along the bar till it is against the bit that is turned up, the proper position for the hole will at once be found by passing a needle through the hole already in the bar and marking a corresponding circle on the block c. If any doubt exists about getting these holes through accurately, mark the block on both sides, and drill also from both sides till the holes meet in the middle. Next cut the slot c T V in. deep and f in. wide, dovetailed to fit the bar b. Bevel a bit of good steel, f in. broad and m - thick, to fit in the block tightly, and, while it is in, drill and tap a hole through it, and also into the block, so that a small screw may be inserted to keep it from slipping out when it is in use. Make a small screw for the purpose just stated, and then proceed to finish the knife (Fig. 23). Be careful, when the screw is put into its place, that it does not project above the surface of the knife, or it will tear the edges of the book as it passes to and fro when in use. The knife is now rounded at the end, as seen in Fig. 23, and then bevelled off to the shape shown. Fig. 23 represents it as it would appear if looked at from underneath. Bookbinders 1 appliances. 27 When it has been nicely tempered, it may be fixed in its place in the block. A piece of flat iron, 1\ in. long and about \ in. broad, forms a support for the end of the long screw. This is shown at G (Fig. 21). Near the top drill a hole in which the screw A revolves, and make two holes for the screws which fix it in its place, and the various parts of the cutter are ready to be put together. Slide the block c on to the bar b and the long screw A, and fix the wing-nut on the end by screwing it on tightly, and then secure it by passing a small screw through the neck into the screw A. Now fix the Tig. 23.— Plough Knife. Fig. 24.— Plougn. bar on a piece of 2-in. by l£-in. wood about 8 in. long and screw on the guide-plate G. It will be advis able to fix on two pieces of metal, as in Fig. 13 (p. 18), to keep the cutter from twisting. This tool will cut through any book as perfectly as one costing a hundred times as much. St ill another kind of plough, resembling one pre- viously described, however, is illustrated by Fig. 24. To make it, obtain two pieces of seasoned beech for the sides a, about 8 in. long by 4 in. deep, and li in. or \\ in. thick ; also obtain a f-in. iron screw and nut with tail, to insert in the side Bookbinding. opposite to the handle. By using a wooden screw, a hole could be tapped in the side piece, and the trouble of inserting the iron nut would be saved. Two guides c, say 10 inches long and 1 in. square, are fixed in the handle side, say \\ in. from the bottom : they slide through square holes. A notch is made to receive the cutting knife, as shown at E, so that when put on with two screw nails the knife is flat with the wood, as will be seen. To ensure movement in both directions, a hole is bored through the screw spindle for the pin and washer. The side now is all of one piece, and will move out or in as required. It remains to put a slip of wood or iron on the other side, so that it may hold on to the press bar b while working the plough backwards and forwards to cut the edge held in the press. This hardwood slip is shown at d. x (Fig. 24) is the iron which carries the knife, the shape of which is indicated by y. The guillotine is another kind of cutting machine for trimming the edges of books. The name of the machine sufficiently explains for the present purpose its construction and the manner of using it. It is expensive, and is used for cloth books. The tub is the stand on which the lying press is supported. The sides of the tub are often boarded up for some distance from the floor, to contain the shavings cut from the book edges. A large, open rectangular packing case makes a good tub. A pair of large stout shears (similar to those em- ployed by tinsmiths), one handle of which is held in the press, the other being worked by the binder, is desirable when much cutting up of millboards for book covers has to be done, though a sharp knife, like that used by shoemakers, will answer the pur- pose. It is, of course, obvious that a smooth, hard bed for cutting on must be provided, and, if a knife is used, a steel straightedge or T-square is required as a guide for the knife. A grindstone Bookbinders' Appliances, 29 and oilstone are very economical additions, for all cutting tools must be kept sharp. The holing machine is used for perforating the covers of books. These holes are intended for the reception of the ends of the bands or cords by which the book is attached to its covers ; but a bradawl or a bodkin or a small punch will answer the pur- pose of a holing machine. A tenon saw is required for making the " kerfs," which are grooves or cuts made across the back of a book to hold the bands or cords upon which the sheets of the book are sewn. These cuts are made when the book is screwed up tightly in the lying press. Backing boards are of very hard wood, as they have to resist considerable strain, and are made in pairs, of the usual book sizes. The purpose for which backing boards are used, and the shape of the boards (the bevels being somewhat exaggerated for the sake of clearness), will be seen on reference to Figs. 35 and 36, pp. 49 and 51. Cutting boards, as their name implies, are placed on each side of the book when its edges are cut, and they are not so thick as backing boards. Though both backing boards and cutting boards can be made by an amateur, he is advised to purchase a pair of backing boards to serve as a pattern for those he may afterwards make. Sundry small tools include one or two pairs of scissors, a sharp-pointed knife for squaring plates— that is, single-leaf illustrations— large sewing i needles, a small wooden tub for thick paste and an earthenware vessel for thin paste, a large glue-pot for thin glue and a smaller pot for thick glue, with brushes for applying both paste and glue, sprinkle pot (any large stoneware vessel or gallipot will do), a sprinkle-brush, which must be a well-made brush with a stout wrought-iron ferrule (not a bit of com- mon hoop iron, but a ferrule made by a smith), an agate burnisher, that known as a dog's tooth being 3° Bookbinding. the most useful, a backing hammer, a small round marble slab and paring knife, one or two bent pointed folding-sticks, and a pair of iron compasses. Many of these tools, or such as may very well be substituted for them, are already possessed by the majority of amateur workers. Other tools may be constructed, or may be purchased second-hand of printers' brokers. An ingenious amateur will con- trive many mechanical aids for facilitating his work as soon as he understands the purpose to be ac- complished. An expensive plant, therefore, is not absolutely necessary to enable anyone to begin Fig-. 25.— Strawboard Cutter. bookbinding. It is,, however, obvious that proper tools and machines lessen labour and save time. It is possible that particulars of a machine for cutting strawboard, cardboard, etc., may be useful. The appliance shown by Fig. 25 consists of a wood or iron table A resting on a framework and four legs. On the table are gauges, which can be so adjusted that the operator can cut the boards to any size re- quired. Close to the edge of the table is a clamp to hold the boards in position while being cut. This clamp is worked by the foot, a treadle being pro- vided at the bottom of the legs, near the floor. The boards are cut between two knives, one, b, being screwed flush to the edge of the table, and the other, c, being movable and screwed to the lever. Bookbinders' Appliances, 31 The edges of the knives are bevelled like scissor blades ; in fact, the machine is simply a large pair of scissors. A balance weight at the end of the movable arm carries the knife and keeps it in posi- tion. Both knives should be made of steel, and in tempering them avoid getting them too hard, or they will be liable to chip. Fig. 26 represents the gauge A on top of the table. This gauge is simply an L- shaped piece of metal; the shorter branch of the L is bent to lie close to the edge of the table. A slot almost the entire length of the gauge is cut in the latter. A thumbscrew screws into the edge of the table and fastens the gauge in position. The 1= 3 Fig. 26. — Gauge of Strawboard Cutter. other portion of the gauge lies flat on the table. The clamp is a light casting shaped like Fig. 27, p. 32. It is fitted to the table close up to the knife B (Fig. 25). A short rod is fixed at one end of the clamp and a longer rod at the other end, ending in a stirrup for the foot. These rods are fitted with springs which raise the clamp and hold it up until the foot is placed in the stirrup. A little pressure on the stirrup brings down the clamp and holds the board while it is being cut. Th'j stirrup should reach almost to the floor for convenience of work- ing. The side of the table and the front of the gauge must be a perfect right angle, otherwise difficulty will be experienced in cutting the boards straight. Strips of iron, not quite \ in. thick and perfectly straight on the inner edges, are screwed 32 Bookbinding. to the top of the table as shown. The strawboard is placed against these strips and the gauge when Fig. 27.— Clamp of Strawboard Cutter. cutting, the clamp is applied, and the knife brought down forcibly. Such a machine is in general use amongst bookbinders, paper-box makers, etc. Bookbinders use large quantities of glue in their work, and doubtless much time would be saved by employing some such preparation as "Gloophlex," an elastic glue, guaranteed by the makers to be strong and reliable. As bought, it has the smell and appear- ance of consistent glue-jelly, and the only preparation needed is to melt it by heating it on a water bath, and then add boiling water according to requirements. 33 CHAPTER II. FOLDING PRINTED BOOK SHEETS. The first operation in bookbinding is folding thei printed sheets, and it requires great care if the book| is to have a good appearance when bound. It is ; usual for printers to leave more margin to the out- 1 sides of the sheet, so that when the sheets have been folded the margin will be broader at the fore- edge and tail than at the head and back. The head and back are always at the fold, the tail and fore- edge being towards the outside of the sheet. If the paper presents any little difference in size, thei two latter edges being cut first in the process of binding, the difference will then be taken off, and the margin will be the same all round. The plan adopted is to fold to the pages of print, and not to the edge of the paper, for the least varia- tion in the size of the sheet would result in a spoiled book. Papers are made in various sizes, and are known by the following terms : Imperial (30 in. by 22 in.), royal (25 in. by 20 in.), demy (22^ in. by 17£ in.), crown (20 in. by 15 in.), foolscap (17 in. by 13-£ in.), and pott (15 in. by 12| in.); and the sizes of books are denominated according to the number of leaves into which the sheet is folded. The ordinary sizes are folio, 4to, 8vo, 12mo, 16mo, 24mo, and 32mo. A sheet, when folded, has twice as many pages as leaves, for the obvious reason that it is printed on both sides. In speaking of the size of The Quiver, for example, it is said to be royal octavo (8vo), be- cause the sheet has been folded to one-eighth its original size, and has sixteen pages. The octavo is 34 Bookbinding. the most general size of a book, and the type matter is so imposed that, when the sheet is folded, the sixteen pages will follow consecutively. In the early days of printing only a few pages could be printed at one operation. Now, however, the number of pages that can be printed on one sheet of paper is only limited by the size of the printing machine. But, as a matter of convenience, the sheets the binder has to deal with usually con- sist of 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, or 128 pages, the number of pages that are folded into one sheet depending on the price at which the book is to be sold. In the best work, the sheets do not contain more than sixteen pages— that is, eight pages on each side of a sheet of paper; and each sixteen pages is called a section or sheet. At the bottom of one of the pages (the first numerically) of each sheet is printed a letter or figure, known as the signature ; this is the guide when folding, and, as the letters or figures follow each other consecutively, the plac- ing of the sheets in their proper order when sewing them is thus ensured. Thus, when the sheets in a work each consist of sixteen pages, the signatures will be found at the foot of pp. 1, 17, 33, 49, etc. The manner of folding is as follows : A printed sheet (say, pp. 1 to 16) is laid on a table in front of the operator, that side of the sheet containing p. 1 (the signature side) lying in contact with the table. Page 2 backs p. 1, and p. 2 should be the corner page close to the operator's left-hand (see Fig. 28). The corner page at the folder's right-hand is p. 3. The object to be obtained is to fold the sheet over in such a way as to place the figure 3 exactly on the top of the figure 2. If this is properly done, the printed lines Gn p. 3 will lie exactly on the printed lines on p. 2, line for line, and when the book is bound the white margins round the print on each page will all be of the same relative widths, the front and the bottom margins being always wider Folding Printed Book Sheets. 35 than the top and the inside margins. The result of the first fold is shown by Fig. 29. The second fold brings pp. 5 and 12 over on to pp. 4 and 13 ; the result of this fold is shown by Fig. 30. The third fold brings p. 9 on to p. 8, the folded sheet is turned over, and the result seen by Fig. 31. The first page is p. 1, containing the signature, in this case the letter A, and the last page of the sheet is p. 16. All folding operations follow this general plan of doubling over the sheet for each fold ; to this rule there are, of course, a few exceptions, but these are easily recognised. Before beginning to fold, the folder should ascertain how many pages ot II 9 15 14 3 S SI 4 13 Fi Using, 136, 142, 143 Blocks, 136, 137—141 Boards, Backing, 29 , Cover, 50, 51 , Cutting, 29 , Knatching, 77 , Pressing, 13 Bone Folder, 11, 36 Bookbinder's Cloth, Gold Block- ing, 144 Bookbinding, Meaning of Term, 9 Books, Sizes of 33 Borders, etc., 136—142 Box and Lying Press, 19, 20 Boxwood Effect on Covers 114 Brass Blocks or Stamps, 136 Brown Shell Pattern Marble 88 Burnisher, Gilder's, 101, 104 107 Burnishing Gilt Edges, 107 Burnt Ochre, 86 Calf Bindings, "Antique," 134 . Cleaning, 152 , Graining, 150 , Ornamenting, 134 . Paste-washing, 122 . Piecing, 122 . , Tree Marbling, 111—114 , Covering Book with 58 ■, Gold Blocking, 144 , Scratches on, 155 Cardboard Cutter, 30—32 Cards, Gold Blocking, 145 146 Cedar Effect on Covers 113 Centre Tools, 120 China Clay, 87 Chinese Blue, 87 Cleaning Bindings, 152—154 Leaves, 154 Cleanliness, Necessity of 152 Cloth Binding, 9, 66 — . Cleaning, 152—154 Boarding, 66—68 Covers or Cases, 67 . Stiffeners for, 67 , Gold Blocking, 144 Sides, 64 Cloth-bound Book, Finishing 115 ■ . Sewing, 67 Collating, 67 Coloured Plates, Stickiness of 69 Colouring Book Edges 79 Colours for Book Edges, 81 82 - — . Marbling, 86, 87, 92, 112 Combs, Marbling, 84 Corner Tools, 120 Corners, etc., 136—142 Cover Boards for Ledgers 72 Covering Account-books, 77 78 Books, 58—65 — with Leather, 58 Pamphlets, 70 Covers, Bible, 150 , Blind Work on, 115 , Blocked Designs for, 133 139 , Boxwood Effect on,'ll4 ' , Calf, Putting on, 62 > - — . Tree Marbllug, ill- Index. 157 Covers, Cedar Effect on, 113 , Cleaning, 152—154 , Cut, Lacing on, 51 , Cutting, 50, 51 , Gilding, 115—146 of Half-bound Book, 58 , Hand-tooled, 150 , Leather, Cutting, 58 , , Paring, 58 , , Pasting, 58 , . Putting on, 58-61 , Lettering, 123—134 , Lining, 51 , Made-up Millboard, 51 , Mahogany Effect on, 114 , Marbling, 110—114 , Materials for, 50 ■ , Metal Leaf Decorated, 115 , Millboard for, 50 ■ , Morocco Hand-tooled, 150 , Scratches on, 155 , Riveted Ornaments on, 115 ■ , Setting Out, 51 , Sprinkling, 110 , Strawboard for, 50 , Tree Marbling, 111—114 , Trimming, 122 , Walnut Effect on, 113 , of Whole-bound Book, 58 , Wood, 50 Crown Papers, 33 Cundall Folding Machine, 37 Cushion, Gilder's, 101—103 , , Using, 105 Cutter, Standard, 30—32 Cutting Account-book Ends, 77 Boards, 29 . Covers, 50, 51 Edges, 55—57 in Boards, 55—57 Leather Covers, 58 ■ Sides, 64 , Tying up Book for, 57 Cutting Boards, 29 Cutting Press, 15 Demy Papers, 33 Devil for Glaire, 124 Drop Lake, 86 Tools, 119 Dutch Antique Pattern Marble, 97, 98 Metal, 132 Pattern Marbles, 95, 97, 98 Edges, Burnishing Gilt, 107 , Colour for, 81, 82 , Colouring, 79 , Colours of, 79 , Cutting, 55-57 , Gilding, 101—109 , Gilt, Painting, 107, 108 , , Protecting, 65 , Gilt-on-red, 101, 108, 109 Edges, Marbling, 88—91 , Marbling-under-gilt, 101 , Mottling, 83 , Painting, 107, 108 , Ploughing, 55—57 , Red-under-gold, 101, 108, 109 , Scraping, 104, 105 , Speckled, 80, 8 1 , Sponging, 79 , Spraying, 80 •, Sprinkling, 81—83 ■ Square with Page, 56 Egg Stains on Covers, 154 Electrotype Blocks, 136 Enamelled Paper, Marbling. 92 End Papers, 48, 65, 150 Fancy Dutch Pattern Marble, 95 Fillets, 117 •, Applying Heated, 128 Finisher's Glaire, 125-127, 143 Gouges. 119 Press, 115 Size, 124 Stove, 115, 117 Tools, 115, 120 Finishing, 115—155 Account-books, 78 Cloth-bound Books, 115 Leather-bound Books, 115 , Requirements of, 120 Flattening Curved Back, 55 Flower Tools, 119 Flv-leaves, 48, 65, 150 Folder, 11, 36 Folding Machines, Cundall, 37 , Martini, 37 , Salmon, 37 Printed Book Sheets, 33-37 Folding-stick, 11, 36 Foolscap Papers, :.i Gall, Preparing, 87 Gathering, 67 Gilder's Burnisher, 101, 104, 107 Cushion, 101—103 ■ , Using, 106 Knives, 301, 103. 104 Press, 101 Steel Scraper, 101. 102 Tip, 101, 104, 106 Gilding as a Protection, 101 Covers, 115—146 Edges, 101—109 , Tools for, 101 , Greasing before, 126, 127 : Marbling-under-gilt, 101 , Preparing Edges for, 10-1 , Red-under-gold, 101, 108 Gilt-on-red Edges, 101, 108, 109 Glaire, 125, 126, 143 , Applying, 126 127 , Devil for, 124 replaced by Albumen, 143 Bookbinding. Gloophlex, 32 Glue, 32, 66 Glueing Blocks, 137 Glueing-up Account-books, 74 Goatskin Bindings, Finishing, 134 Gold Blocking, 135—147 Bookbinders' Cloth, 144 Calf, 144 Cards, 145, 146 Kerotol, 146 Morocco, 142—144 Paper, 145 Paste-grain Roan, 144 Russia Leather, 144 Silk, 145 Vellum, 145 Velvet, 145, 146 Leaf, 104, 132 , Applying, 106 , Cutting, 106 , Preventing, from Ad- hering to Cushion, 106 Paper, Marbling, 92, 96 Gouges, Finisher's, 119 Graining Calf Bindings, 150 Graining-plates, 150 Grease Stains, Removing, from Covers, 153 Greasing before Gilding, 126, 127 Grindstone, 29 Grolier Patterns, Inlaid, 134 Guards for Illustration Plates, 69 Guillotine, 28 Gum for Marbling Colour, 85, 92 Half-bound Books, 58 Hammer, Beating, 11, 12, 38 Headbands, 53 Heater Box of Blocking Press, 135, 136 Holing Machines, 29 Pamphlets, 70, 71 Illustrations, Binding up, 68, 69 , Guards for, 69 , Positions of, 68, 69 Imperial Papers, 33 Indigo, 87 Ink, Blocking Covers in, 148—150 Inlaid Grolier Patterns, 134 Insets, 35, 36 Interleaving Books with Plates and Writing Paper, 69 Iron, Knocking-down, 52 Italian Pattern Marble, 96, 97 K'erotol, Gold Blocking, 146 Keys, Sewing Press, 14 Knatching Account-books, 77 Knatching Boards, 77 Knives, Gilders', 101, 103, 104 Knocking-down Iron, 52 Lake, Drop, 86 , Wood, 86 Law Books, 70 Laying Press (see Lying Press) Leather Binding, 9 , Glairing, 126, 127 , Paste-washine, 122, 127, 143 , Varnishing, 126 Leather-bound Books, Finishing, 115 , Taking Apart, 10 "Leaves" and "Pages," 33 Ledger Binding, 72 , Sewing in, 72 Cover Boards, 72 , Spring Back of, 72 Legal Bindings, 70 Letter-copying Press, U?e of, 12 Lettering Covers, 123—134 , Device for Getting Even, 130 , Implements for, 123 , Keeping Equidistant, 129 , Even, 129—132 Pieces, 62—64 Press, 134 : Titles, 132—134 Tools, Heating, 127, 128 , Type for, 123, 130 , Type-holder for, 123, 130, 131 Line Tools, 118, 119 Lines, Black, on Account-books. 78 Lining up Backs, 52 Covers, 51 Lying Press, 15 — 19 and Box, 19, 20 , Tub for, 28 Machinery, 10, 11 Machines, Folding, 36, 37 , Strawboard-cutting, 30—32 Mahogany Effect on Covers, 114 Marbled Paper, Sizing, 99, 100 Marbling : Antique Spot Pattern, 98 : Brown Shell Pattern, 88 Colours, 112 , List of, 86, 87 , Grinding, 87 , Gum for, 85, 92 , Preparing, 87, 88, 92 ■ , Size for, 85, 92 — - Combs, 84 Covers, 110—114 ■: Dutch Antique Pattern, 97 98 Edges, 88—91 Enamelled Papers, 92 : Fancy Dutch Pattern, 95 Gold Papers, 92, 96 : Italian Pattern, 96, 97 — -: Mechanical Patterns, 99 Index.. 159 Marbling : Nonpareil Pattern, 90, 92—94 Papers, 92—100 : Reversed Nonpareil Pat- tern, 94 Silver Papers, 92 : Spanish Pattern, 89 Trough, 84, 85 : Wave Nonpareil Pattern, 95 : West End Pattern, 98, 99 Marbling-rods, 111 Marbling-under-gold Edges, 101 Margins, Page, 56 , Patching, 71 Martini Folding Machine, 37 Metal Leaf Decoration on Covers, 115 Millboard, 50 , '* Black Board," 75 Covers, Made-up, 51 , Tip, 50 Morocco Bindings, Cleaning, 152 , Finishing, 122, 134 , Gold Blocking, 142 Hand-tooled Covers, 150 , Removing Scratches from, 155 Mottling Book Edges, 83 Nonpareil Pattern Marbles, 90, 92-94 Ochre, Burnt, 86 Octavo Books, 33, 34 Oil Stains, Removing, from Covers, 153 ■ , , Leaves, 154 Orange Lead Pigment, 87 Ornamenting Covers, 115 Overcasting, 47 Ox Gall, 87 Page, Edges Square with, 56 Margins, 56 " Pages " and " Leaves," 33 , Number of, in Sheet, 34 , Patching, 71 Painting Gilt Edges, 107, 108 Pallets, 118 Pamphlets, Binding, 70 , Covering, 70 — , Holing, for Stitching, 70, 71 , Sewing, 67 Paper, Account-book, 73 , Gold Blocking, 145 , Marbling, 92—100 ■ , Sides, 64 Papers, EjvL 48, 65, 150 — , Sizes of,, ij • Paring Leiarth&r«CuVsrs?;^5& I • • Paste-graiyi Roap,« Q<#a'. J5li)8k, ing, 144 Paste-washing Leather Bindings, 122, 127, 143 Pasting in End Papers, 65, 150 Paper sides, 65 Leather Covers, 58 Patching Pages, Margins, etc., 71 Peg-rake, 90 Periodicals, Sewing, 67 Piecing Calf Bindings, 122 Pigments for Marbling, 86, 87 Pipeclay, 87 Plates, Binding Book Contain- ing, 68, 69 , Coloured, Remedying Stick- iness of, 69 , Guards for, 69 , Positions of, 68, 69 Plough, 20—28 Ploughing Book Edges, 55—57 Polishers, 124 Pot, Sprinkle, 81 Pott Size Papers, 33 Powder, Blocking, 145 Press, Backing, 15 , Blocking, Preparing, 136 , , Using, 142, 143 , Cutting, 15 , Finisher's, 115 , Gilder's, 101 , Letter-copying, 12, 13 , Lettering, 134 , Lying, 15—19 , , combined with Box, 19, 20 , . Tub for, 28 , Sewing, 13—15 , , Keys of, 14 , , Using, 42 , Standing, 12, 13 Pressing Boards, 13 Printing Covers in Ink, 148—150 Raised Artificial Bands, 53, 54 Rake, Peg, 90 Raking, 52 Re-binding Books, 71 Red-under-gold Edges, 101, 108, 109 Repairing Books, 71 Reversed Nonpareil Pattern Marble, 94 Riveted Ornaments on Covers, 115 Roan Bindings, Finishing, 122, 134 , Gold Blocking, 144 Bods, Marbling, 111 Rolling Account-book Backs, 76 instead of Beating, 38, 39 J&ichine, 11... .... .... ;i$oijs, 1:7, ais •r4s« Pijik; ^ •. : ; 1 : : I Illolindiag .Ate*cfnt«boK)kS, 75* * Books, 48, 49 Russia Leather, Gold Blocking, • .144 ••• j 2 •.: •'• i6o Bookbinding, Salmon Folding Machine, 37 Saw, Tenon, 29 Saw-kerflng Book Backs, 39—41 Scraper, Gilder's, 101, 102 Scraping Edges, 104, 105 Scratched Leather Bindings, Re- pairing, 155 Scratohing-up, 52 Sewing, 41—47 Account-books, 74 Cheap Cloth Work, 67 Flexible Books, 48 -: Overcasting, 47 Pamphlets, etc., 67 Press, 13—15 , Keys of, 14 ■ , Using, 42 , Saw-kerflng for, 39—41 Several Books at once, 46, 47 , Thread for, 42 , Twine or String for, 40 " Two on," 44—46 Shears, 29 Sheets, Drying, 39 , Folding, 33—37 , Njmber of Pages in, 34 , Recently Printed, Treat- ment of, 39 , Sizes of, 33 Shell Pattern Marble, 88 Sides, Cloth, 64 , Cutting, 64 , Paper, 64 , Putting on, 64, 65, 150 Signatures, 34—36 Silk, Gold Blocking, 145 Silver Blocking, 147 ■ — - Paper, Marbling, 92 Size, Finisher's, 124 for Marbled Paper, 99, 100 Marbling Colour, 85, 92 Slab and Beating Hammer.. 12 Spanish Pattern Marble, 89 Speckled Book Edges, 79 Spirit Varnishing Leather Bind- ings, 126 Sponging Book Edges, 79 Spray Producer, 80 Spraying Book Edges, 79 Spring Back, Ledger, 72 Sprinkle Pot, 81 , Red, 81 Sprinkling Book Edges, 79 Covers, 110 Stains, Removing, from Covers, 152—154 , , Leaves, 154 .Siamps % ;36 . . Standing Pmss'Tk, *3 . ; StSeUSSraflei, lOi.JoS; \ Stereotype Blocks, 136 Stick, Band, 122 Stiffeners for Cloth Covers, 67 Stone and Beating Hammer, 11, 12 Stove, Finisher's, 115, 117 Strawboard Covers, 50 Cutting Machine, 30—32 String for Sewing Books, 40 Tapes, Sewing Account-books on, 74 Tenon Saw, 29 Thread, 42 for Account-books, 74 Tins, Pressing Account-book be- tween, 75 Tip, Gilder's, 101, 104 — , , Using, 106 " Tip " Millboards, 50 Titles, Gilding, on Covers, 132— 134 Tools, Bookbinder's, 10—32 -, Finisher's, 115—120 , Gilder's, 101—104 -, Marbler's, 84, 85, 87, 90 Tree Marbling, 111—114 ■ : Boxwood Effect. 114 : Cedar Effect, 113 : Mahogany Effect, 114 : Walnut Effect. 113 Trimming Covers, etc., 122 Trindles, 55 Trough, Marbling, 84, 85 Tub for Lying Press, 28 Twine for Sewing Books, 40 "Two on" Method of Sewing Books, 44—46 Tying-up Book for Cutting, 57 Leather Bound Book, 61, 62 Type for Lettering, 123, 130 Holder, 123, 130, 131 Varnishing Leather Bindings, 126 Vellum, Gold Blocking, 145 Velvet, Gold Blocking, 145, 146 Vermilion, 86 Walnut Effect on Covers, 113 Washing, Paste, 122, 127, 143 Wave Nonpareil Pattern Marble, 95 West End Pattern Marble, 98 White Pigment, 87 Whole-bound Books, 58 Wood Grain Imitation or Tree Marbling, 111—114 Wood Lake, 86 Wri4i«a ,*Pa«er.. . Inierleavinp I fi&t/Jvitit S9.: •: PfUNTEr/.BY« CA«jf*X & .GdAfPAJs LIMITED,, Ll'DC^VM! HlLL, LONDON, E.G. HANDICRAFT SERIES {.continued). Electro- Plating. With Numerous Engravings and Diagrams. Contents— Introduction. Tanks, Vats, and other Apparatus. Batteries, Dynamos, and Electrical Accessories. Appliances for Preparing and Finishing Work. Silver-PJatiiig, Copper-Plating. Gold-Plating. Nickel-PIating and Cycle- Plating. Finishing Electro-Plated Goods. Electro-Plating with Various Metals and Alloys. Index. Clay Model! ing and Plaster Casting. With 153 Engravings and Diagrams. Contexts, — Introduction. Drawing for Modellers. Tools and Material for Modelling. Clay Modelling. Modelling Ornament. Modelling the Human Figure. Waste-moulding Process for Plaster Casting. Piece-moulding and Gelatine Moulding. Taking Casts from Nature. Clay Squeezing or Clay Moulding. Finishing Plaster Casts. Picture Frame in Plaster. Index. Violins and Other Stringed Instruments. With about 180 Illustrations. Contents.— Materials and Tools for Violin Making. Violin Moulds. Violin Making. Varnishing and Finishing Violins. Double Bass and a Violoncello. Japanese One string Violin. Mandolin Making. Guitar Making. Banjo Making. Zither Making. Dulcimer Making. Index. Glass Writing, Embossing, and Fascia Work, (including the Making and Fixing of Wood Letters and Illuminated Signs.) With J29 Illustrations. Contents— Plain Lettering and Simple Tablets. Gold Lettering. Blocked Letters. Stencil Cutting. Gold Etching. Embossing. French or Treble Embossing. Incised Fascias, Stall-plates, and Grained Background. Letters in Perspective; Spacing Letters. Arrangement of Wording and Colors. Wood Letters. Illuminated Signs. Temporary Signs for Windows. Imitation Inlaid Signs. Imitation Mosaic Signs. Specimen Alphabets. Index. Other Volumes in Preparation. DAVID McKAY, Publisher, 610 South Washington Square, Philadelphia. TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION. Important New Series of Practical Volumes. Edited by PAUL N. HASLUCK. With numerous Illustrations in the Text. Pi Date Due c *— 1 1 1 1 1 1 ■ 1 r t ! a < T r e 1 H r a Q . TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION [continued). Practical Handrailing. With i 44 illustrations. Content*.— Principles of Handrailing. Definition of Terms. Geometrical Drawing. Simple Handrails. Wreathed Handrails on the Cylindrical System. The Uses of Models. Obtaining Tangents and Bevels. Face Moulds : their Construction and Use. Twisting the Wreath. Completing the Handrail. Orthogonal or Right-angle System of Setting Wreathed Handrails. Handrails lor Stone Stairs. Setting out Scrolls for Handrails. Setting out Moulded Caps. Intersecting Handrails without Basements. Index. Practical Brickwork. With 368 illustrations. Contents. — English and Flemish Bonds. Garden and Boundary Walls. Bonds for Square Angles. Excavations, Foundations, and Footings. Junctions of Cross Walls. Reveals, Piers. Angles and other Bonds, jointing and Pointing. Damp-proof Courses and Construction. Hollow or Cavity Walls. Chimneys and Fireplaces. Gauged Work and Arches. Niches and Domes. Oriel Windows. Practical Painters' Work. With Numerous Illustrations. Contents.— Objects, Principles and Processes of Painting. Painters' Tools and Appliances. Materials used by Painters. Preparing Surfaces for Paint- ing, Painting Woodwork, Painting Ironwork, Painting Stucco or Plaster; Distempering and Whitewashing Color Combination. House Painting. Varnish and Varnishing. Stains and Staining. Estimating and Measuring Painters' Work. Index. Other New Volumes in Preparation. DAVID McKAV, Publisher, 610 South Washington Square, Philadelphia. GETTY CENTER LIBRARY 111 II 111 111 III 3 3125 00121 I