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CINCINNATI, COLUMBUS, CLEVELAND & ERIE 
 
 RAILROAD GUIDE. 
 
THE 
 
 OHIO RAILROAD GUIDE, 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 CINCINNATI TO ERIE, 
 
 VIA 
 
 COLUMBUS AND CLEVELAND. 
 
 OHIO 
 
 COLUMBUS: 
 STATE JOURNAL COMPANY. 
 1854. 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by the 
 OHIO STATE JOURNAL COMPANY, 
 In the Clerk's office of the District Court of the United States for the District of Ohio. 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Page. 
 
 X^l. Map of Depot Grounds at Cleveland, - - Front Title. 
 
 2. Vignette Title, " M 
 
 3. Passenger Depot at Cincinnati, 5 
 
 4. Car Shops and Engine Depot at Pendleton, - - 13 
 
 5. Scene by Moonlight at Red Bank, 16 
 
 6. View of Milford, --20 
 
 7. View near Milford, 21 
 
 8. View of Germany, - 22 
 
 9. Bridge over Little Miami at Miamiville, 23 
 
 10. Junction Hillsborough Railroad at Loveland. - - 24 
 
 11. Bridge over Miami River at Foster's Crossings, 25 
 
 12. View of Morrow from the South, 28 
 
 13. View of Morrow from tub East, 29 
 
 14. View near Fort Ancient, on L. M. R. R., - - - - 33 
 
 15. View of Station House at Xenia, 41 
 
 16. London, Madison County, 44 
 
 17. Bridge over Big Darby, on C. & X. R. R., - 45 
 
 18. View of Ohio Penitentiary and Bridge over Scioto, - 53 
 
 19. View of State House and High Street, Columbus, - 56 
 
 20. Lunatic Asylum, Columbus, 57 
 
 21. Delaware Station, - 64 
 
 22. Shelby Junction, 76 
 
 23. Grafton Station, 80 
 
 24. Bridge over Black River, near Grafton, • - - - 81 
 
 25. Euclid Creek, - 96 
 
 26. Bridge over Grand River, - 101 
 
 27. Bridge over Conneaut River, 112 
 
 28. Bridge over Crooked Creek, Springfield, Pa., - - 120 
 
THE ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 
 
 IJlf <f f <T$! whoever thou art stop 
 
 one moment, to contemplate the progress and 
 grandeur of this Western Empire ! In Europe, Asia 
 and Africa, you will be called to admire ancient 
 castles, ruined temples, fallen columns, and all the 
 evidences of a magnificence which is either already 
 old, or fallen to decay. It was achieved by labor — 
 put forth in ages past — and is made interesting and 
 glorious, by memories and associations which are 
 now only historical. The banks of the Rhine, still 
 populous with its millions, are thus filled with the 
 castellated remains of former greatness. The Nile, 
 the Tigris and the Euphrates, are lined with the ruins 
 of Thebes and Heliopolis, of Babylon, of Nineveh, 
 and those thousands of cities and temples, which 
 once stood glorious monuments of ancient magnifi- 
 cence — the pride and admiration of a world ! There 
 you stand amidst ruins. All is absorbed in memory! 
 All testifies to the mutation of human affairs — to 
 Decline and Fall. 
 2 
 
2 
 
 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 Now look around you*! — Mark what you see ! — 
 You have passed to the very antipodes of scene, and 
 time, and event. The Past is gone ; the Present 
 lives before you. The new Empire is not falling, 
 but rising to glory and grandeur. There rolls the 
 Ohio, graceful in its curves, surrounded with green 
 hills, but crowned with no castles, — having no mem- 
 ories save those of the red Indian, who disappeared 
 but yesterday, and calling up no association of 
 Egyptian or Gothic gods — of Cambyses, Frederick, 
 or Napoleon, leading the heavy tramp of armies, in 
 the career of war and conquest. Some border wars 
 of the early time there have been, but none which 
 destroyed or revolutionized nations. The white man 
 came to possess a land which none had cultivated, 
 and here, all around you, are the peaceful fruits of 
 his labors. The thronged city, with its work-shops, 
 its marts, its stores, its canals, its roads, its churches 
 and schools ; the vine-clad hills, the Corinthian house, 
 the distant cottage, the observatory of science — and 
 all that the labor and art of the modern can furnish 
 — are here, on the banks of the Beautiful River. 
 Whence came this magic creation ? Is it due to the 
 sacrifice of blood ? to the conquests of a great hero ? 
 to the government of an illustrious monarch ? to the 
 well-ordered discipline of feudal retainers ? — Or to 
 some extraordinary performance of human genius ? 
 or to some miraculous interposition of Providence ? 
 
The Knight of Industry. 3 
 
 To none of these is this creation due, though this 
 
 land has received the richest gifts of Nature, and the 
 
 smiles of Providence. It i% however, the work of an 
 
 ancient knight — one who dwelt in Egypt, Greece, 
 
 and Rome, in their golden times, but has now left 
 
 their ruins gray, to inhabit and invigorate this new 
 
 and rising Empire. The Knight of Industry is his 
 
 name, and he it is who has cultured the fields; and 
 
 " The towns has quicken' d by mechanic arts, 
 And bade the fervent city glow with toil." 
 
 In truth, all that you see in this metropolis of the 
 Ohio Valley, is the result of only half a century of 
 hard work. This is a plain term, but it expresses the 
 whole. Only a little more than half a century since, 
 the red Indian contended for the site of Cincinnati, 
 and the stockade — Fort Washington — was the only 
 strong-hold of the white in this valley. Soon the 
 Indian disappeared ; the hut became useless, and was 
 abandoned ; the town grew up, at first only a dirty 
 village, and now a great and prosperous city, full of 
 art, commerce, and wealth. No where else can so 
 entire a transformation, accomplished in so short a 
 time, be found. Viewed in its just light, it is a far 
 greater wonder than any of the old and renowned 
 ruins of the earth. It is not wonderful, that Time 
 and Decay should destroy the mightiest work of 
 man, or that man should be capable of great works, 
 when he has time sufficient ; but that he should per- 
 
4 
 
 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 form the work of centuries in a single generation, 
 and that he should transform the dark wilderness 
 into the fruitful field and blooming garden, within 
 the limits of a life, seems like the marvels of an Orien- 
 tal story, or rather like the fulfillment of those an- 
 cient prophecies, which speak of the desert blooming 
 like the rose. But — the cars are starting — let us. 
 note what we see on the way. 
 
 The Little Miami Rail Road did not exist twelve 
 years since — nor any other railway in the Valley 
 of the Ohio — but now it is here, to take you on 
 your journey with all the speed, comfort and conve- 
 nience of any such road, in any country ; and there 
 are three thousand miles of railway in this valley ! 
 Year after year hundreds of miles are added to the 
 number, and where it once took weeks to accomplish 
 a journey, it now takes only hours ! What a revo- 
 lution ! But the revolution is not in the gain of 
 time only, nor even money. The great change is in 
 society. Thousands meet now where tens could meet 
 twenty years since. Look through these cars, and 
 you see around, men, women and children going to 
 see friends, or transact business, or seeking pleasure, 
 where they would not have dreamed of going a few 
 years since. Some are going only to the next town ; 
 some to the Lakes ; some to the Atlantic ; some to 
 Europe ; — and some, perhaps, will wander through 
 old Jerusalem, or by the banks of Jordan, before they 
 
Little Miami Rail Road. 5 
 
 will again return. The Railroad and the Steamboat 
 have made man almost ubiquitous on this little earth, 
 and his fondness for novelty and change is gratified 
 beyond the dreams of fancy. Where will this stop ? 
 No where, till this earth is inhabited by one family, 
 dwelling together in peace and unity. 
 
 Before we start, let us look at this Depot. I have 
 seen many fine depots, in the east and the west — 
 some of solid, beautiful stone — but I have seen none 
 more spacious or convenient than this. It is recently 
 finished; and there will be need of all its accommo- 
 dations, for the immense congregation of persons and 
 things, gathering here from the numerous lines of 
 railway, North and East. Already there are five or 
 six hundred miles of Ohio Railroads, whose whole 
 business with Cincinnati centres here, and the num- 
 ber is continually increasing. This building is 465 
 feet long, 90 feet wide, and 30 feet high. It is, as 
 you see, built in the most solid manner, and beauti- 
 fully arched. It covers just an acre of ground, and 
 would contain ten thousand people. On the oppo- 
 site side you will see another Depot, also very large. 
 In these depots, and in the machine shop beyond, 
 are included four or five acres of ground, nearly 
 covered with buildings, and all absolutely necessary 
 to accommodate the immense business of the Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Before we start, let us recognize the localities 
 
6 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 around the Depot. We are now just at the foot of 
 Deer Creek, over which is the stone bridge you have 
 just passed. This little stream is only two miles in 
 length, originating on the top of the northern hills, 
 and running down the ravine in which you see the 
 Miami Canal, whose outlet is just below the bridge. 
 The creek is now covered most of the way by a stone 
 culvert. At the head of it, about a mile above the 
 Depot, are the principal slaughtering establishments; 
 and in former years, I have seen the creek running 
 with blood, from the hogs killed upon it. In the 
 cold weather of December and January, thousands 
 of these animals are slaughtered each day, and the 
 stream is crimsoned till it mingles with the Ohio. 
 
 Up Deer Creek ravine, if you cast a look, facto- 
 ries, foundries and mills arise in continual succession 
 far as the eye can see. Most of them are turned by 
 the water power of the canal ; but some are car- 
 ried on by steam, which is now very cheap. This is 
 one of the busiest parts of the town, and an immense- 
 ly heavy business is transacted in its neighborhood. 
 Sugar mills for Louisiana, locomotives for railways, 
 machinery of all kinds, linseed oil, flour, candles, 
 soap, and numerous other articles, are manufactured 
 in Deer Creek valley. The value of these manufac- 
 tures, in this little ravine alone, amounts to some 
 three or four millions of dollars per annum ; and yet 
 it is but a small part of what is done in Cincinnati. 
 
The Observatory. 
 
 7 
 
 Now let us glance at something very different. Out 
 of sight, but on the summit of the hill just to your 
 left, is the Observatory. The hill on which it stands 
 is called Mount Adams, from John Quincy Adams, 
 who laid the corner-stone of the building. The Ob- 
 servatory was founded by Professor Mitchell, whose 
 untiring exertions procured subscriptions among all 
 classes of people, which, with his own labor and per- 
 severance, accomplished the work. The structure is 
 quite a handsome one, and fitted with the larger 
 class of astronomical instruments, though it still 
 needs many of the minor appurtenances of a com- 
 plete one. The great equatorial Telescope is one of 
 the finest in the world, and is to the eye, as well as 
 to science, really magnificent. The focal length is 
 17 2 feet, and the diameter of the object glass 12 
 inches. It is mounted on a stone pedestal of great 
 strength, and is made of the most beautiful brass, 
 polished to the brightness of a mirror. Although 
 weighing 2,500 pounds, it may be moved to any 
 point with your little finger, so nicely adjusted are 
 the pivots and wheels on which it moves. Should 
 the stranger in Cincinnati ever find an opportunity, 
 he will be delighted with the scenery of the siderial 
 heavens, presented through this glass. Saturn, with 
 its golden rings ; the Moon, and her dim and shad- 
 owy mountains ; Jupiter, and his attendant satelites 
 
8 
 
 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 — all are beautiful and lovely, and, to one who lias 
 never seen this telescopic vision, most wonderful. 
 
 It is very singular, yet true, that this same hill 
 was once used as an Indian observatory ; but not to 
 observe the heavens — nor look through telescopes — 
 nor count the glowing orbs, as they career through 
 the skies. No ; the Indian made an observatory of 
 the tops of the high trees on the hill, to see what the 
 white men were doing in the fort below. A lady, 
 whose husband was an officer in Fort Washington, 
 told me that White Eyes, an Indian chief, said that he 
 had often climbed to the top of the " big tree" on the 
 hill, and looked down into Fort Washington, where 
 he could see every movement. This was just before 
 Wayne's victory in 1795. That gave peace to the 
 valley, and border wars w r ere known no more. One 
 short generation has passed, and what marvels are 
 seen ! Yonder little stream, then filled with alder 
 bushes, and musical with birds, is now crowded with 
 lofty factories, and thundering with the din of ma- 
 chinery and the roar of wheels. Where the old 
 fort was, rises lofty domes, and towers, and turrets, 
 surrounded with the gay splendor of a modern city. 
 On yonder hill — then forest-crowned — rises the 
 Observatory \ and the red Indian, 
 
 " Whose soul proud science never taught to stray 
 Far as the solar walk or milky way," 
 
Cincinnati Water Works. 9 
 
 is replaced by the bold white, who seeks to pene- 
 trate the depths of the sky, and reveal the mysteries 
 of heaven ! 
 
 — Hark ! the bell rings, and we shall soon leave 
 Cincinnati behind us. The first object which strikes 
 the eye on the right, is the large building of the 
 Cincinnati Water Works, usually pouring forth a 
 dark cloud of coal smoke. Being carried on by 
 steam, these works have none of the beauty of Fair- 
 mount (Philadelphia), so justly celebrated. They 
 are, nevertheless, interesting from the great scale on 
 which they are constructed, and the immense work 
 they perform. Cincinnati is built on a great plain, 
 with two levels, or steps ; one of which is 55 feet, 
 and the other 108 feet above low water mark. 
 Hence to supply it with water from the river, this 
 water must first be raised 150 feet above its lowest 
 stage, in order to acquire head enough to cause a flow 
 through all the pipes. Now, when we consider that 
 nearly two hundred thousand people are to be sup- 
 plied with water from this source, it may be imagin- 
 ed that the power required is immense. This work 
 is done by iron forcing pumps, moved by steam. The 
 barrel of the main pump is 18 inches diameter, and 
 8 feet stroke of piston. There are two pumps which 
 can throw five millions of gallons each twelve hours. 
 The daily consumption of the city is about 2,500,000 
 gallons. By these pumps the water is forced into a 
 
10 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 reservoir, on the hill above, and thence carried in 
 pipes to all parts of the city. This reservoir is 368 
 feet long, 135 feet wide, and 23 feet deep, capable 
 of containing one million cubic gallons of water. 
 The containing walls are of stone, several feet in 
 thickness, double, with an interval betw r een, and 
 thoroughly cemented. From this reservoir, the water 
 is carried to all parts of the city in iron pipes, of 
 which the main stem is 20 inches in diameter. The 
 pipes now make about sixty miles in length, and 
 supply 15,000 hydrants. 
 
 Just beyond us, on the right, is another long, 
 dingy volcanic establishment, pouring forth flame 
 and smoke. This is the Rolling Mill of Shreve, 
 Steele & Co., and may be taken as a sample of the 
 numerous iron factories in Cincinnati. The part of 
 the city where we now are is almost wholly occupied 
 with mills, factories, and machine shops of various 
 kinds ; and the dwellings are of a cheap structure, 
 occupied chiefly by work people. Hence there is 
 little beauty in it, and, like the first view of most 
 cities seen from public conveyances, does not strike 
 a stranger as very imposing. The same character- 
 istic appearance prevails for five miles, in w T hich 
 there is a continuous street passing through towns 
 of different names, but in fact only prolongations of 
 Cincinnati. Next to the city, in succession, are 
 Fulton, Pendleton, Spencer, and Columbia. Noth- 
 
Scenery of the Ohio. 
 
 11 
 
 ing, however, indicates where either begin, or end. 
 They are only suburbs. As we pass along, there 
 will be seen — notwithstanding the dingy look of 
 houses and shops — some beautiful, as well as inter- 
 esting things. By keeping your attention mainly 
 fixed on the right, or river side of the cars, you will 
 see the Kentucky hills in some of their most grace- 
 ful attitudes. The forest is not half cleared off, but 
 near the river there are green fields, country seats, 
 and villages ; forming, altogether, quite a picturesque 
 landscape. The hills have the contour and height 
 which characterize nearly the whole thousand miles 
 of the Ohio Valley. Above Wheeling they are more 
 abrupt, and below the Cumberland less in height ; 
 but what you see before you is the general character 
 of the hills which bound the Ohio, and which, with 
 its winding curves, have given it the name of the 
 u Beautiful Paver." They are gentle in their ascent, 
 without rock or precipice, gracefully curved on every 
 side, and covered with rich and abundant foliage. 
 All bear the aspect of beauty and gentleness. There 
 is nothing of the sublime, the abrupt, or the rough. 
 Hence he who compares the scenery of the Ohio with 
 that of the Hudson, or the St. Lawrence, does injus- 
 tice to both. They are not alike. There are no 
 such sublime heights as those of the Highlands, nor 
 such island-covered breadth of waters as on the St. 
 Lawrence ; but neither have they anything like the 
 
12 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 graceful windings, the gentle hills, the broad bottoms, 
 the deep green of foliage, which gives such loveliness 
 to the vale of the Ohio. Just above this, is a most 
 picturesque curve, with the winding town on this 
 side, the green hills of Kentucky on the other, the 
 river bending away around the base of the hills till 
 lost to the sight, and curling smoke rising in fleecy 
 clouds to the sky. Beyond that, and about six miles 
 from Cincinnati (almost all of which is the village), 
 on the Ohio side, is the Little Miami, from which our 
 Road takes its name. 
 
 I have been descending the river in one of the fine 
 Pittsburgh packets, in the beginning of May. Deep 
 was the foliage of the forest, velvet-like the soft 
 green of the fields ; rapid and rolling the river, the 
 wind raising on its surface the little " white tops," 
 and bringing with it the balmy freshness of the 
 woods. Then the Ohio is indeed beautiful ; then I 
 could sav, with truth — 
 
 " See the rivers how they run, 
 Through woods and meads, in shade and sun, 
 Sometimes swift, sometimes slow, 
 Wave succeeding wave, they go 
 A various journey to the deep." 
 
 The name Ohio was given originally by the In- 
 dians, and signified nearly the same, as the French 
 termed it, " La belle Riviere but conveying the 
 idea of white water, or white waves. 
 
Jamestown, Pendleton, etc. 13 
 
 On the right, and near two miles from the Depot, 
 you will see a handsome town on the Kentucky 
 shore. This is Jamestown. It w r as laid out only 
 three or four years since, and is now, as you see, a 
 considerable village. In a few years, the Kentucky 
 shore, like the Ohio, will be lined with a continuous 
 town. The three towns of Covington, Newport and 
 Jamestown, now contain about twenty thousand in- 
 habitants. Three-fourths of this is the growth of the 
 last ten years. 
 
 Pendleton is three miles from Cincinnati, but is 
 only a continuance of the town we have passed. 
 The Company have here a large stable for locomo- 
 tives, a machine shop, repair shop, work-shops, &c, 
 &c. The accompanying plate gives a view of this 
 establishment. 
 
 The cars were formerly compelled to move slow 
 from the depot to this point; but the Company 
 having purchased the ground, at immense expense, 
 for their own use, there is now no interruption, and 
 we move swiftly on. 
 
 From Pendleton we pass rapidly into the Valley 
 of the Miami. Almost imperceptibly, the cars turn 
 more than a quarter circle ; leaving a high hill, on 
 the left, the summit of which is called Tusculum, and 
 occupied as a peach orchard and vineyard. From 
 this hill is one of the finest views in America, — 
 commanding the suburbs of Cincinnati, the Valley 
 
14 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 of the Little Miami, and the beautiful curves and 
 surroundings of the Ohio. It is well worth while for 
 a traveler in Ohio, to drive, some clear morning (as 
 he may, on a good road), to take a view of this 
 charming scene. If, when we gaze with delight from 
 yonder hill, the red Indian could return, he might 
 well exclaim, with Roderick Dhu, — 
 
 " Saxon, from yonder mountain high, 
 I marked thee send delighted eye, 
 Far to the south and east, where lay 
 Extended, in succession gay, 
 Deep waving fields and pastures green, 
 With gentle slopes and groves between. 
 These fertile plains, that spotted vale, 
 Were once the birthright of the Gael ; 
 The stranger came, with iron hand, 
 And from our fathers reft the land. 
 Where dwell we now V 
 
 It is in vain ; neither Roderick nor the Indian can 
 regain their native land. And why should they ? 
 The earth must "be cultivated ; and it is not the wild 
 hunter nor the Highland robber can do that. Civil- 
 ization must prevail, and sympathy is wasted upon 
 those who, either for want of will or capacity, or 
 Providential favor, are unable to perform their part 
 in reducing the wilderness to cultivation, and the 
 human mind to discipline. This work of cultivation 
 and discipline is what we see before us. This Rail- 
 way is one of the highest types of Physical Progress, 
 
First Burying Ground. 
 
 15 
 
 and the science by which it is accomplished, one of 
 the highest evidences of intellectual discipline. 
 
 Now look to the right, as you turn, and take a 
 view of the broad fields of the Miami Valley. The 
 river runs on the other side, in a narrow grove of 
 trees, which conceals it from your sight, and joins 
 the Ohio about a mile and a half from the turn round 
 the hill. Few spots present a richer view of the 
 fertile soil of Ohio, in its products, than this vale in 
 mid-summer, when the Indian corn waves its tassels, 
 the meadows are verdant, and here and there a 
 market garden has a little patch blooming with 
 various plants. 
 
 The First Burying Ground is six miles from Cin- 
 cinnati, near where we are. It is just to the right, 
 a narrow inclosure, with a few old tombs yet visi- 
 ble. It is the burial place of the first settlers, — for 
 Columbia was settled before Cincinnati. The first 
 colony was composed of Mr. Stites and twenty-six 
 others, who landed here in 1788. The failure of this 
 settlement was owing to the fact of these bottoms 
 being overflowed at high water, so that, in the very 
 next year, all the cabins but one were under water. 
 Oliver Spencer, one of the earliest inhabitants of 
 Cincinnati, says of Columbia : " Fresh in my remem- 
 brance is the rude log house, the first humble sanc- 
 tuary of the first settlers of Columbia, standing 
 amidst the tall forest trees, on the beautiful knoll 
 
16 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 where now is a grave-yard, and the ruins of a 
 Baptist meeting house of later years. There, on the 
 holy Sabbath, we were wont to assemble to hear the 
 word of life ; but our fathers met with their muskets 
 and rifles, prepared for action, and ready to repel 
 any attack of the enemy. And while the watchman 
 on the walls of Zion was uttering his faithful and 
 pathetic warning, the sentinels without, at a few rods' 
 distance, with measured step, were now pacing their 
 walks, and, with strained eyes, endeavoring to pierce 
 through the distance, carefully scanning every object 
 that seemed to have life or motion." 
 
 The first clergyman who preached in the old log 
 church was Mr. Gano, the father of General Gano, 
 one of the early settlers. Daniel Gano, for many 
 years Clerk of the Courts in Cincinnati, was born 
 here — one of the oldest living men born on the soil 
 of Ohio. 
 
 In this little, unpretending grave-yard, were bu- 
 ried the early dead of Ohio. They went to sleep in 
 the wilderness, but their bones lie amidst hundreds 
 of thousands, who now live where the wilderness 
 stood. Of them may truly be said, — 
 
 Beneath those rugged elms, that locust's shade, 
 Where heaves the turf in many a mouldering heap, 
 
 Each in his narrow cell forever laid, 
 
 The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep. 
 
 They were not so very rude ; for most of the settlers 
 
Duck Creek and Miami River. 17 
 
 of Ohio, were intelligent men. But these were the 
 forefathers — and not of a hamlet only; nor merely of 
 a common city; hut douhtless of some modern Baby- 
 lon or London, which here rising on the banks of 
 the Ohio, shall rival the renowned cities of the earth. 
 
 The cars are flying on, and we hasten too. We 
 are now passing over a little stream called Duck 
 Creek, and truly it is a very good duck creek, and 
 there is some pleasant shade along its banks. We 
 now come on to the Miami River, which you will 
 see on one side or the other, for more than fifty 
 miles. I may as well introduce you now to the 
 character and history of the Miami, whose company 
 you are to keep for so long a time. This river rises 
 in the western edge of Madison county; thence tra- 
 verses a part of Clarke ; and thence through Greene, 
 Warren, and part of Clermont and Hamilton. Its 
 whole length is about 80 miles, and its descent in 
 that distance, about 700 feet; or, an average of 
 about 9 feet to a mile. This rapid, but generally 
 equable descent, makes it an admirable mill stream 
 — and there are in the valley of the Miami, numer- 
 ous mills and factories, most of whose products go to 
 Cincinnati. There are a million and two hundred 
 thousand bushels of wheat, grown in this valley; 
 and at least four millions of bushels of corn. These, 
 of course, cause a large export of flour, hogs and 
 whisky, which furnish heavy freights for the Little 
 3 
 
18 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 Miami Railroad, and bring a most profitable tribute 
 to Cincinnati. Notwithstanding the fall in the river 
 is so great, the current is gentle, — and the whole 
 scenery is soft. Generally, the trees and shrubs on 
 the banks, are suffered to grow — and the river is 
 seen through the foliage. We pursue the valley 
 very closely, till we reach Xenia, where we leave it, 
 and bend over the upland plain towards Columbus. 
 
 The Little Miami is one of two streams with the 
 same name — the other being nearly parallel — at 
 about twenty miles distance. From these streams, 
 this district is called the Miami Valley, and is cele- 
 brated for its fertility. The whole section, watered 
 by the two Miamis, contains seven thousand square 
 miles, and more than half a million of inhabitants. 
 This gives seventy to the square mile, and a density 
 of habitation, equal to New England, except in the 
 immediate vicinity of Boston. 
 
 The Miami Valley was first noticed by Washing, 
 ton, who having crossed the Alleghenies himself one 
 hundred years ago, seems to have been well in- 
 formed upon the character of the country and cli- 
 mate, on the Ohio. In a letter to a friend, written 
 after the revolution, he mentions the country on the 
 Miamis — as described to him by surveyors, who had 
 visited it — as remarkably fine in soil and climate # 
 It is singular also, that Washington should also be 
 the first person to project the formation of the pres- 
 
The Miami Valley. 
 
 19 
 
 ent State of Ohio. I never saw this mentioned in 
 any history or discussion of the subject; but so it is. 
 In a letter to a gentleman of New York, he recom- 
 mends the purchase of the Indian lands, rather than 
 a war with them. For, he says, their lands are all 
 you can get by war — and you can get them by 
 purchase. With that remarkable sagacity for which 
 Washington was so distinguished, he says the pur- 
 chase of the lands and settlement by the whites, go 
 together. Hence, he recommends that a State be 
 formed on the north side of the Ohio — whose west- 
 ern boundary should run through the mouth of the 
 Great Miami, and be continued to the Miami of the 
 Lakes, and thence to Lake Erie. The State would 
 be comprehended between this western boundary 
 and Pennsylvania, and between Lake Erie and the 
 Ohio River. This is precisely the present State of 
 Ohio, and within twenty years from the writing of 
 Washington's letter, it was admitted into the Union. 
 I mention this little episode, to illustrate the practi- 
 cal sense and foresight of him, who in fact, not less 
 than in name, was the Father of his Country. 
 
 As we pass along, and the variegated foliage of 
 trees and shrubs and plants appears before us, it may 
 interest us a little to know what they are. We are 
 not botanists or florists; but the common plants of 
 each district of country should be noted by every 
 observing traveler. The Oak and the Sugar Maple, 
 
20 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 we find in almost every part of our wide country. 
 But there are numerous plants, which are peculiar 
 to certain districts, and often to very small districts. 
 This peculiarity seems to depend (setting aside cli- 
 mate) on some peculiarity in the soil, or structure of 
 the earth's surface — what the Geologists call its for- 
 mation — or, as I should say, its composition. I know 
 little about Geology; but one leading fact I can tell 
 you. This Miami country is all of it a limestone 
 country. The farmers say that lime is one great 
 cause of the fertility of the soil. At any rate, this 
 lime certainly encourages the growth of some plants, 
 and is hostile to others. Now, let us see what plants 
 we have before us. It is spring, and we see Nature 
 and her children to advantage. If not in their most 
 valuable, they are certainly in their most beautiful 
 dresses. I shall not enumerate the common trees, 
 but merely mention some that are the most character- 
 istic of this region. In early spring, may be seen the 
 Redbud ( Cercis), which bears a beautiful red bud, and 
 seems like a jewel on the breast of the forest. Flow- 
 ering about the same time, is the Dogwood ( Comas), 
 which bears a large white flower, shaded with a little 
 yellow. The Flowering Locust (Robinia), comes la- 
 ter, and when in blossom is a beautiful tree. The 
 Buckeye (JEsciilus maxima), has given name to the 
 inhabitants of Ohio. The Poison Vine, {Rhus Radi- 
 cans) is a very common plant in summer, and by 
 
Plain ville . 
 
 21 
 
 many, is supposed to be the cause of milk sickness, 
 which was a very afflicting disease in some sections 
 of the country below Columbus; but in the progress 
 of cultivation, seems to have nearly disappeared. 
 The Indian Arrow Wood, (Eiionymas) is abundant 
 in mid-summer. The Pawpaw (Anona Glebra), is 
 very common in the neighborhood of all our streams, 
 and with the Buckeye boy, its fruit is quite a favor- 
 ite. The Tulip Tree (poplar), in its season, bears a 
 very fine flower. The Wild Cherry, Crab Apple, 
 Persimmon, Honey Locust, Wild Plum, the Aspen 
 and the Box, are common trees of the country. The 
 most numerous timber trees, are the Sugar Maple, 
 Beech, White Oak, Walnut, Ash and Hickory. 
 
 The Miami country has no Pine ; nor is there any 
 district of pine trees within several hundred miles. 
 Hence the transportation of pine lumber to Cincin- 
 nati — where it is so much needed — is an exten- 
 sive business. In the future, pine boards will prob- 
 ably be brought by railway, from the distant regions 
 of Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota. 
 
 Plainville, to the left, is a station 9 j- miles from 
 Cincinnati, and Qi from Pendleton Engine Shops. 
 There is nothing peculiar about it, — though the sit* 
 uation is pleasant j and a number of gentlemen have 
 purchased the neighboring heights for rural resi- 
 dences. 
 
22 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 The Miami, here and below, affords several mill 
 seats, which have been occupied for many years. 
 In the first settlement of the country, they used a 
 very different kind of mill. A little grinding appa- 
 ratus was fixed in a boat, and the boat being an- 
 chored, the wheel at the side was turned by the 
 current. Others of the pioneers — especially in Ken- 
 tucky — used horse mills and hand mills. Thus, the 
 first settlement of the West approached very nearly 
 the primitive state, — when the simplest arts and 
 usages were adopted. 
 
 Milford, on the right, is 14 miles from Cincin- 
 nati, and is a very interesting place. It is in Cler- 
 mont county, (we are now in Hamilton) and on the 
 other side of the Miami. The village contains prob- 
 ably 600 inhabitants. The spires of its churches 
 and schools, are conspicuous*in the scene. The 
 great mill, and long row of sheds to the right, are 
 Kugler's Mills and Distillery : the sheds are for 
 hogs, which are fed from the refuse of the distillery. 
 Just in front, is the bridge which connects the De- 
 pot with Milford, and over which passes a turnpike 
 road to the country beyond. The.e are three or 
 four stages and omnibuses waiting here to convey 
 passengers to the interior. The county of Clermont 
 is fertile and populous — furnishing a large business 
 to the Railway and Cincinnati. 
 
Germany to Loveland. 23 
 
 Just beyond — as the cars pass — there is a dam 
 over the Miami, which furnishes a very pretty water- 
 fall. This dam supplies the water power to the 
 mills below. 
 
 The plate, page 21, represents a rural scene just 
 above Milford — and is characteristic of the country. 
 The gentle swell of hills, the quiet repose of farm 
 houses, and the intermingling of native woods with 
 cultivation, are the principal features of Ohio scenery 
 in this part of the State. The sublime and rugged 
 are not here ; but the gentle and graceful predomi- 
 nate. 
 
 Germany, about 16 miles from Cincinnati, is a 
 little villa. The scene in the plate represents the 
 residence of M. Kugler, Esq., proprietor of the large 
 Mill and Distillery seen at Milford. 
 
 Miami Bridge is- about 18 miles from Cincinnati. 
 Here the Railroad passes to the east side of the 
 Miami, and continues on that side for fifty miles. 
 The bridge is a substantial structure, — constructed 
 for a double track — and above high water. A view 
 is given in the accompanying plate. 
 
 Miamiville is a little village on the left, grown up 
 by the location of mills, and the construction of the 
 Railway. 
 
 Loveland, 23 miles from Cincinnati, is an impor- 
 tant station. Here is the intersection of the Hills- 
 borough Railroad with the Little Miami Railroad. 
 
24 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 Hillsborough is 37 miles by rail, from this point. 
 It is the county seat of Highland county, and a 
 pleasant village. It is situated on a hill, 1074 feet 
 above tide-water, and 600 feet above Cincinnati. 
 This hill, and the surrounding ridges, however, are 
 all of gentle curvature, so as to seem nothing but a 
 rolling country — variegated with forest and field. 
 Thus situated, it is very healthy — and in summer a 
 cool and agreeable retreat. The village contains 
 about 2,000 inhabitants, with several churches. The 
 society is cultivated and agreeable. 
 
 The Hillsborough Railroad, is, as yet, only con- 
 structed from Loveland to Hillsborough, 37 miles; 
 but is in course of construction to Jackson, and may 
 be continued to Parkersburg. Such was the origi- 
 nal intention; but the Company has recently been 
 united with the Cincinnati and Marietta Company, 
 which goes to the same point. At Parkersburg, 
 it will be connected with the Baltimore railways, 
 making a continuous Baltimore line to Cincinnati. 
 
 At Loveland, the Miami and Hillsborough lines 
 unite; the whole distance from Hillsborough to Cin- 
 cinnati being 60 miles. Three or four years since, 
 there was but a single house here ; but now, there is 
 quite a village grown up. The junction of the 
 Railways is seen in the opposite plate. 
 
 Foster'^ Crossings is on the left, and takes its 
 name from the original resident here. It is simply 
 
Governor Morrow. 25 
 
 a house, a bridge, and a station. The Miami river 
 is here crossed by the Montgomery turnpike, from 
 Cincinnati to Wilmington. The situation is a very 
 pleasant one. There are hills on both sides— the 
 valley being here compressed within narrow limits. 
 The bridge, a plain simple structure, conducts to the 
 road which you see winding up the hills on the other 
 side. The accompanying plate represents this scene. 
 
 Just before you come to Foster's Crossings, you 
 will notice on the left hand of the cars, as you come 
 from Cincinnati, on the west bank of the river, a 
 large mill and plain frame house. This was the res- 
 idence of one of the real statesmen of our country — 
 Governor Morrow. He entered public life in 1802, 
 and remained in the public service half a century; 
 in which time, he never once lost the public confi- 
 dence, nor ever failed in any part of his duty. He 
 was a member of the State Convention to form the 
 first Constitution; was twelve years a member of the 
 House of Representatives in Congress; and most of 
 the time, the only Representative of Ohio. He was 
 six years in the United States Senate; four years 
 Governor; and several years, towards the close of 
 his life, President of the Little Miami Railroad Com- 
 pany. He was one of the earliest friends of this 
 enterprize, and one of the few, who then saw the 
 great superiority of this mode of locomotion, and its 
 advantages to the country. The Duke of Saxe Wei- 
 
26 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 mar, after visiting him in 1825, described him as a 
 faithful copy of an ancient Cincinnatus. "He was 
 engaged on our arrival, in cutting a wagon pole ; 
 but immediately stopped his work on our arrival, to 
 give us a hearty welcome." 
 
 It would be well for our Republic, if the race of 
 Morrows could be continued- if, nurtured like the 
 mighty oaks on the soil; warmed into vigor, by the 
 open sun; freshened by the pure air; made hardy 
 by labor and exposure; educated to the sentiment 
 of religion, and the love of liberty, — they could 
 come as Morrow did — with the strength of frame ; 
 the vigor of intellect; the honest heart; and the 
 clear eyed spirit, to the great work of Legislation. 
 Then we should have wholesome laws, justly admin- 
 istered ; and all selfishness and intrigue and corrup- 
 tion would disappear, before a fearless Patriotism. 
 Alas ! why cannot we have another era of Washing- 
 tons, and Jays, and Morrows ? But, we must neither 
 linger nor sigh, by the grave of Patriots ! The cars 
 roll on. Time flies ! It is the Present only we pos- 
 sess. 
 
 Deerfield Station. — A bridge is thrown over the 
 river here, and the old town of Deerfield is seen on 
 the opposite side of the river ; but is now only a few 
 scattered houses. We say old ; for it was settled 
 about 1797, by the Suttons, Kelly, &c. Now fifty 
 years in Ohio, is as much as five centuries in some 
 
Lebanon. 
 
 27 
 
 countries ; a town which w 7 as settled fifty years ago, 
 is looked upon as among our antiquities. 
 
 Lebanon is four miles from Deerfield, and this is 
 the station for the Lebanon passengers to arrive at 
 and depart from. Lebanon is the county seat of 
 Warren county, the west side of which we are now 
 traversing. It is noted — perhaps as much as any 
 other county town in the United States — for its 
 distinguished men. Among these, we may mention 
 John McLean, a representative in Congress, Post- 
 master General, and now Judge of the Supreme 
 Court, who commenced his career in Lebanon, as 
 editor of the "Western Star. Thomas Corwin, Rep- 
 resentative in Congress, Senator, and Secretary of 
 the Treasury/ a distinguished orator, lawyer and 
 statesman ; whose father was one of the first settlers 
 of Lebanon. Thomas It. Ross, representative in 
 Congress, also an able man. Joshua Collett, the 
 first lawyer in the county, and afterwards Judge of 
 the Supreme Court • and Judge Dunlevy. In fine, 
 Lebanon and Warren county are rich in what Rome 
 deemed her treasures — Patriots and Statesmen. 
 Some, like Morrow, have gone to their rest ; but it 
 is hoped that the matrons of such a land, may yet 
 be able to produce plants of so goodly a stock. 
 
 The census tells us, that Lebanon has 2,088 in- 
 habitants. It is a pleasant retired country town. 
 
 Morrow is 36 miles from Cincinnati, and 28 from 
 
28 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 Xenia. Morrow is one of the Railroad creations. It 
 had no existence whatever, when the Railway com- 
 menced business. Now, it is a thriving and quite a 
 well built village, with, according to the census, 458 
 inhabitants — but many more now; for it has much 
 improved in the last three years. Morrow is well 
 situated, at the mouth of Todd's Fork of the Little 
 Miami, which, rising on the plain of Clinton county, 
 (east) becomes here a considerable stream. You 
 cross it near by, on a handsome wooden bridge. 
 But Morrow will become a much larger place; for it 
 has another advantage. It is at the intersection 
 with the Little Miami Railroad, of the Wilmington, 
 Circle ville, and Zanesville Railroad — one of the 
 most important lines of Railway in the country. 
 
 The Cincinnati, Wilmington and Zanesville Rail- 
 road commences at Morrow, and passing Wilmington, 
 the county seat of Clinton County, Circleville, 
 the county seat of Pickaway county, Washington, 
 county seat of Fayette, and Lancaster, the county 
 seat of Fairfield, unites with the Central Ohio Rail- 
 road at Zanesville. It thus makes a most important 
 central line of Railway; and including 36 miles of 
 the Little Miami Railroad, and 81 miles of the Cen- 
 tral, will unite Wheeling and Cincinnati with a line 
 of about 250 miles in length; the shortest route 
 which will connect those cities. At Wheeling, oth- 
 
Fort Ancient. 
 
 29 
 
 er lines will continue the route to Baltimore and 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 The distance from Cincinnati to the principal points 
 on the Cincinnati^ Wilmington and Zanesville line, 
 will be nearly as follows : — 
 
 Cincinnati to Morrow - - - 36 miles. 
 " to Wilmington - - 57 66 
 « to Washington - - 77 * 
 " to Circleville - - 105 * 
 " to Lancaster - - 126 " 
 " to Zanesville - - 169 " 
 These are all important places, in rich counties, 
 and there is hardly a route in the Western States, 
 which promises so much local support from the pro- 
 ductions of the soil. 
 
 A view of Morrow, coming from the East, is on 
 the opposite page. The bridge in front is over Todd's 
 Fork. The Miami is on the right. 
 
 Fort Ancient is 41 i miles from Cincinnati, and 22i 
 miles from Xenia. The view is not of Fort Ancient; 
 but of a scene on the river, a little above,— as seen 
 from the opposite bank. Fort Ancient is on the 
 hill above, and of course, invisible from the Railway, 
 or the river. "And what is Fort Ancient?" says the 
 inquisitive traveler. Ah ! That is the question. It 
 is a considerably deeper one than " Who built the 
 Pyramid?" This Western world, especially the 
 valley of the Mississippi, and most of all, the valley 
 
30 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 of the Ohio, contains numerous ancient monuments, 
 some of which are unquestionably the remains of for- 
 tifications; some are evidently tombs, and others 
 again are more doubtful ; whether they were intended 
 for military, for religious, or for monumental purpo- 
 ses. There are unquestionably some of each kind. 
 Of those used for the tombs of the dead, it is ques- 
 tionable whether many of them were originally in- 
 tended for that purpose j or, whether being found in 
 existence, they were not used in some after genera- 
 tion, as ready made coffins and tombs for the dead. 
 These tombs are called " Mounds," and are simply a 
 raised cone of earth, with a flattened top, having the 
 natural slope of the earth. They are of various si- 
 zes, from ten to one hundred feet in height. On 
 some of them the largest forest trees are found ; and 
 the mounds themselves are found often in the most 
 remote wilderness, and in the densest woods. In 
 these mounds are almost invariably found some re- 
 mains of human bones ; some pottery ware ; some 
 charred ashes 5 and occasionally a raised altar of 
 earth, upon which either the body was placed, or 
 sacrifice offered. In some, as at the Grave Creek 
 Mound, near Wheeling, there was the appearance of 
 a regular vault, with wooden sides, prepared with 
 something of the design and intention of the Egyp- 
 tian Pyramids. Such are the " mounds " of the 
 west. But, we come now to the important question, 
 
Fort Ancient. 
 
 31 
 
 * were those entombed in the mounds, of the same 
 people with those who built them ? And, were those 
 buried here, the same race with our North American 
 Indian ? And were all of them of the same race ? 
 I confess, that I incline to the last opinion. But^ 
 there is such a love of romance in the human mind, 
 that most persons, and especially antiquarians, have 
 loved to dwell on the idea of a mysterious people, 
 who once inhabited this continent, and who, having 
 built all these monuments and fortifications, were at 
 last utterly obliterated, by a barbarous race, so 
 that even their monuments have not preserved their 
 name from oblivion ! The strongest argument 
 against this romantic theory is found in this last 
 fact; — that these monuments contain nothing which 
 furnish the slightest evidence of civilization, by which 
 some knowledge of them might have been preserved. 
 They were not a civilized people. That is certain. 
 In fact, the builders of the mounds, and certainly 
 those who were buried in them, were not superior at 
 all to the better class of our North American Indians ; 
 such, for example, as the Mandans were. There is 
 nothing in making a mound, nothing contained in 
 them, which a tribe of Delawares or Pawnees might 
 not have done. Where then is the mystery ? As to 
 the mounds, there is none, however much romance 
 may make of it. By the way, here I may mention 
 a tradition of the North Western Indians, in regard 
 
23 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 to the manner in which the mounds were formed. It 
 may, or may not be true ; hut contains a very pretty 
 idea. A chief in Wisconsin, many years since, was 
 asked if there was no tradition of the building, or 
 purpose of the mounds ? He said that there was an 
 old tradition, that long time ago, when a chief died, 
 his friends and relatives laid him on a little altar, 
 where sacrifices were made, and raised over him a 
 hillock of earth, and that every time a friend, or a 
 member of that tribe came by, he cast upon it a hand- 
 ful of earth. If he was a great chief, with a large 
 tribe, and popular, his mound soon grew to be a large 
 one ; but if he was a small chief, his mound was 
 small. Thus the mound marked, without an inscrip- 
 tion, the greatness of him who lay beneath. 
 
 Now, this may have been the manner in which 
 some mounds were formed; but they, like our 
 own tombs, are obviously of different kinds. Some 
 of them have been re-opened, and strangers buried in 
 them ; and others were evidently intended for reli- 
 gious uses ; and again, others were used, as we may 
 infer from their position, as military watch-towers. 
 
 But w r e must not stop you in the cars to read the 
 history of a tomb. What, you may well ask, has 
 this to do with Fort Ancient ? Much : for there are 
 mounds within Fort Ancient; and there are also 
 other things, much more curious than mounds. Fort 
 Ancient is, in fact, an old, and unknown fortification ; 
 
Fort Ancient . 
 
 one of the most singular of all these ancient remains 
 which have puzzled so many. I am sorry you can- 
 not leave the cars, and walk through it. You would 
 see a work, most manifestly intended for defence, 
 evidently constructed by human hands ; but of whose 
 author not the slightest trace, or memorial, or history 
 remains, save only this solitary and deserted ruin. 
 When you meet a ruined fortification on the Rhine, 
 or the Danube, you know something of its authors. 
 Its stones and walls tell you something. You can 
 trace it very distinctly to German Barons or Roman 
 Praetors | but here you can trace nothing. These 
 fallen walls have no characteristics of any thing, or 
 of any known being. They were found in a wilder- 
 ness, whose wilder inhabitants knew not whence they 
 came. There were no inscriptions. The dead had 
 no epitaphs. The profound solitude of the woods 
 was interrupted by no sound from its lonely tenants. 
 There was, when first seen, around these ancient for- 
 tifications, a dreary and painful solitude ; a sense of 
 presence, and yet a death-like repose, I recollect 
 well a feeling of awe, when I first passed through 
 Fort Ancient The mounds seemed as if they would 
 speak, and just then a huge black snake drew him- 
 self across the road, as if he were the genius of the 
 place. I dare say no such impression is produced 
 now; for all around is cultivation, and the air of life 
 and activity pervades the neighborhood. 
 4 
 
34 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 Of Fort Ancient, the description in brief is this : 
 It stands on a plain, about 230 feet above the river, 
 and between two rivulets running into the Miami. 
 Each of these streams has high and steep banks ; so 
 that, in fact, this position is defended naturally, on 
 three sides. It is only open on the fourth, or east 
 side. The plain is nearly level, and on it is erected 
 an irregular fortification, generally following the bank 
 of the river and the creeks, in the shape of a high 
 parapet, on the water side about eight or ten feet 
 high, but on the plain nearly double that. To this 
 parapet there are gateways, mounds, and some exte- 
 rior defences. Nothing is more obvious, than that the 
 work was intended for defence ; and it is equally cer- 
 tain, that the position was selected with skill and 
 sagacity. If a modern general was to select some 
 spot on the Miami river to defend, he could not have 
 chosen a better one. 
 
 But I have detained you here long enough. We 
 must hasten on. The railway runs at the base of 
 the hills, and therefore shuts from sight all these an- 
 cient memorials. To a curious and contemplative 
 mind, these remains are very interesting, and weeks 
 might be occupied in examining these and similar 
 monuments on the Miami, and Scioto. The view ac- 
 companying this is not of Fort Ancient, but of a 
 scene on the Little Miami river, above the fort ; in 
 my opinion quite beautiful. 
 
C 0 R AV I N . 
 
 35 
 
 Corwin, 50 miles from Cincinnati, and 14 from 
 Xenia, is a station opposite the pretty town of 
 Waynesville, Warren county, Ohio. On a clear day 
 you will see across the Miami, (over which a bridge 
 is thrown,) a village of white houses, lying amidst 
 the foliage of a green slope. It is to my eye one of 
 the most rural and beautiful towns, as seen from the 
 station, any where to be found. It has no ambition 
 to be a busy manufacturing or mercantile place ; and 
 therefore you see no dark columns of smoke, no tall 
 chimneys, no din of noise. All is quiet, serene, ru- 
 ral and retired. By the way, there is one branch of 
 business carried on here, the traveler may as well 
 know. There is here a maker of Maple-sugar Can- 
 dy, who unquestionably makes the best in the nation. 
 If you see him in the cars, with his little boxes, 
 five chances to one you will say " no." For you will 
 think of the half-flour, musty stuff, you generally find 
 under the name of candy. All I have to say, is, that 
 this is real maple candy, the best in the country. 
 
 Waynesville is not pretentious. It is simply- a rural 
 village, originally settled by Quakers, and like them 
 quiet, and unobtrusive. By the census, it has 744 
 inhabitants. There are two Friends' Meeting houses, 
 and a Methodist Church. 
 
 Spring Valley, 57 miles from Cincinnati, and 7 
 miles from Xenia, is a pleasant village ; small, but 
 neat. There is a woolen factory, a tavern, several 
 
36 
 
 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 shops, and in the neighborhood, a good many mills, 
 and factories. The turnpike from Cincinnati to 
 Xenia also passes here. The land is rich, the Mi- 
 ami river near by ; so that on the whole, this posi- 
 tion is a very good one, for those who wish to live 
 in the country, and yet be in a village. It is called 
 Spring Valley, from the very peculiar nature of the 
 hills, and soil around. The hills which surround the 
 place are full of springs, which gush out, almost as 
 large as rivulets. For two or three miles, they are 
 almost innumerable. You will see them on the 
 slopes, as we pass up the little valley of Glady. This 
 is the name of the little stream, we now follow to 
 Xenia. Glady is only seven miles in length, rising 
 in some large springs, near Xenia. In that seven 
 miles, however, it turns the wheels of some seven or 
 eight mills and factories. It is the busiest little wa- 
 ter course you ever saw. 
 
 When you get half way through this valley, about 
 three miles from Xenia, in the woods on the left, is 
 the spot where Daniel Boone made his escape from 
 the Indians. He had been taken prisoner by the 
 Indians, and carried to Old Chillicothe, now called 
 u Old Town," which is about six miles beyond this 
 place, on the Miami. At Old Town he found a large 
 body of Indians, painted and armed, ready for an 
 attack on Booneborough, his own place. There he 
 determined to fly, and on the morning of the 18th of 
 
The Shawnees. 
 
 37 
 
 June, 1778, being left on Glady, near this spot, with 
 only an old Indian and two w T omen, he took himself 
 off, and made a straight line for Booneborough. It 
 was well he did ; for he found the fort in bad repair, 
 and went to work at once, to put it in order. 
 
 This region around u Old Chillicothe," and from 
 thence on, and to the Scioto, was the residence of 
 the Shawnese, once one of the greatest and best of 
 the Indian tribes. The Shawnees were originally 
 residents of the South ; but, (says Col. John John- 
 ston,) came to Ohio long anterior to Bracldock's 
 campaign in 1754. They occupied the country con- 
 tiguous to the Wyandots, on the Scioto, Mad River, 
 and Great Miami, and the upper waters of the 
 Maumee. Thev were devoted friends and allies of 
 the Wyandots, in all their wars with the whites. These 
 two tribes were the last to leave Ohio, and there is 
 not now an Indian, who owns an acre of land within 
 the State. * Alas ! the poor Indian ! " says some 
 one. Yes, my friend, and alas ! the poor white ! For, 
 the Indian was only a savage, and he made war upon 
 the whites, as the whites did upon wolves and bears ; 
 and many were the poor women and children who 
 were tomahawked and scalped, in their ferocious rage. 
 You will say, perhaps, the Indians oivned the land; 
 are you quite sure of that ? Investigate. These 
 Shawnees were only wanderers. They came on to 
 the land once occupied by the Wyandots. Did the 
 
38 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 Wyandots own it ? No. They came where the Del- 
 awares and Iroquois once owned. In fine, can any 
 wandering, savage tribe oivn a country, which they 
 do not even occupy ? but in which they are vaga- 
 bonds and wanderers? They are unquestionably 
 entitled to the rights of life, liberty and labor ; but, 
 oivnership, according to the civilized idea of prop- 
 erty, they had none. 
 
 Xenia is 64 miles from Cincinnati, and 54 miles 
 from Columbus. It is the county seat of Greene 
 county, and one of the best inland towns of the west. 
 But before we discuss the town, let us discuss anoth- 
 er, and quite a practical question. At least you will 
 think it so. Are you hungry ? Is this supper time ? 
 If so, let me tell you, of all the railway depots in 
 the United States, this is one of the best for a meal. 
 It is clean, roomy, and the meals are well got by 
 friend Stark, and charged for no more, than they 
 ought to be. In all the New York and Pennsylva- 
 nia railways, there is not a place better than this to 
 get a nice supper. So if you are hungry and will be 
 satisfied with good things, and don't demand ortolans 
 and turbot out of season, now is your chance. Sit 
 down and be comforted. 
 
 Now, if you have done supper, we will take a look 
 at Xenia. Xenia, where did they get that name ? I 
 cannot tell. I have heard something of its origin, 
 but really cannot trace it to any known thing. "Well, 
 
Xenia. 
 
 39 
 
 Xenia contains 4,248 inhabitants, just treble what it 
 did in 1840, and twelve hundred more than it did in 
 1850. This shows a rapid growth, and it is due al- 
 most entirely to the railways which here intersect. 
 The Little Miami, on which we now are, passes on 
 north to join the Mad River road, at Springfield ; 
 while on the east it is connected with Columbus, by 
 the Xenia and Columbus, on which we shall now 
 proceed. Xenia township is the largest township in 
 Ohio, and contains about 8,500 inhabitants. It was 
 settled chiefly by the Seceders,as they were called, the 
 Covenanters of the Associate Reformed Church, all 
 of whom are branches of the same sect, the old 
 Scotch Covenanters. In the town of Xenia, there 
 are now twelve churches, of which one is Seceder, one 
 Covenanter, tivo Associate Reformed, two Methodist, 
 one Presbyterian, one Baptist, one German Lutheran, 
 one Roman Catholic, and two African. This is more 
 than a church to each 400 people. So you see this 
 is a church going people. In the county there are 
 65 churches, or one to each 300 persons, a very large 
 proportion. In general, Greene county is settled by 
 a sober, industrious, orderly, and intelligent people. 
 You would readily see this from the very look of the 
 farms, if you could see them. Generally, however, 
 our railways do not pass through the most cultiva- 
 ted sections. 
 
 But, to return to Xenia: we shall not see it nearer 
 
40 
 
 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 than at the depot. But, even here, the town bears a 
 pleasant aspect, bright and thriving. The little 
 stream that separates us from town is Shawnee, which 
 runs as clear and bright, as if it were leaping over 
 the rocks and sands of New England. Its name is 
 the only thing in this broad land, except those strange 
 old mounds, which reminds us of the ancient inhabit- 
 ants. Shawnee! Dost thou still remember the 
 Shawnee, the wild warrior of the forest, who once 
 roamed upon thy banks, and hunted in thy woods, — 
 and frolicked in the loud joy of a freeman ? 
 
 Again we start, and soon we shall leave thee, 
 fair Xenia, behind, and bid farewell to all thy charms, 
 thy spires, thy woods and waters ! Of none can it 
 be more truly said, than of thee, — » 
 
 << Loveliest village of the plain, 
 
 Where health and plenty cheer the lab'ring swain, 
 Where smiling Spring its earliest visit pays, 
 And parting Summer's ling' ring bloom delays. 
 
 How often have I paused on every charm, 
 
 The shelter' d cot, the cultivated farm, 
 
 The never failing brook, the busy mill, 
 
 The decent church that tops the neighb'ring hill." 
 
 We pass near, — but shall not see, — Tawawa 
 Springs, a fashionable summer resort for the citizens of 
 Cincinnati. This is a new place, being established 
 only within four or five years. Originally, it was a 
 beautiful piece of wood, or rolling land, in the midst 
 of which was a deep ravine. In that ravine arose 
 
Tawawa Springs . 
 
 41 
 
 three springs; one was pure natural water ; one was 
 lime-water, and one was iron and sulphur. The beau- 
 ty of the situation, with the presence of the springs, 
 gave to Mr. E. F. Drake, who first started the enter- 
 prize, the idea of making it a watering place. This 
 has been accomplished, and Tawawa is now both a 
 beautiful, and a fashionable place. A large, elegant, 
 and most comfortable hotel has been erected; in 
 front of which is a lawn, shaded by forest trees. On 
 each side are rows of cottages, most of them erected 
 by gentlemen for their own families. The roads 
 around Xenia are very good and pleasant for riding; 
 the country remarkably healthy ; the place accessi- 
 ble, at the Xenia Railway station, from every part 
 of the United States. In thirty hours you can be in 
 New York, or Philadelphia, from Tawawa Springs ! 
 In two hours you can be in Cincinnati. I have been 
 at most of the watering places in this country, and 
 I assure you, that for comfort with seclusion, and 
 convenience with pleasure, there is not another place 
 in the United States, more comfortable, convenient 
 and pleasant than this. A fine view of Xenia, and 
 the depot accompanies this. 
 
 Cedarville Station, 72 miles from Cincinnati, and 
 46 from Columbus. There occurs here rather a re- 
 markable natural phenomenon for this country, — the 
 presence of Cedar trees, — and hence the name of 
 the village, — Cedarville. The village is seen from 
 
42 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 the left, through a clump of trees. It is situated at 
 the Falls of Massie's Creek, a stream quite celebra- 
 ted in Indian wars, and Indian adventures. The 
 Falls of Massie's Creek was quite a romantic spot, 
 the waters plunging over rock precipices, and over- 
 hung by darkly green cedars. But, alas! the ce- 
 dars are cut away ; the red Indian has disappeared; 
 there is no more danger ; and quiet people plant corn 
 and tend sheep ! Wild wars and fearful romance 
 have disappeared forever ! Not even the spirit-rap- 
 pers can recall them. 
 
 Selma Station, 6 miles further, is a new place, 
 created by the Railroad. 
 
 South Charleston Station, 83 miles from Cincin- 
 nati and 35 miles from Columbus, is another small 
 country village, in a very pleasant country. After 
 passing Cedarville, we enter upon a country which 
 in its scenery, soil, and qualities, is quite peculiar. It 
 comprehends about one fourth of Ohio. Commenc- 
 ing in the upper part of Highland county, including 
 a small part of Clark, (where we are now,) and all 
 of Fayette, Madison, Union, Hardin, Wyandot, 
 Crawford, and parts of Marion, Huron, Logan, Cham- 
 paign and several other counties ; it extends from 
 the hills of the Ohio, to near the shores of the lake. 
 It may be called, generally, a champaign country, 
 nearly level, but with gentle swells like the waves 
 of the sea, interspersed with natural prairies, and 
 
South Charleston. 
 
 43 
 
 clumps of wood. The small quantity of timber, and 
 the apparent absence of fertile " bottoms/' (the fa- 
 vorites of all good farmers,) induced the pioneers to 
 give these lands the name u barrens ; " but, nothing 
 was more mistaken than to attach to them the word 
 barren, They are among the most fertile, as well as 
 the most beautiful lands in America. Being pecu- 
 liarly adapted to grass, they have heretofore been 
 chiefly employed in grazing sheep and cattle. In 
 the township where we now are, great numbers of 
 sheep are raised. The county of Clark, in which we 
 are, has 50,000 sheep and 12,000 cattle, most of 
 wilich are pastured at this end of the county. 
 
 Charleston is a small, but pleasant village; one of 
 those country settlements of which there are num- 
 bers in every section. 
 
 The Railway from Xenia to Columbus, we should 
 have said, is almost entirely straight, making but 
 three curves, we believe, in the whole distance : one 
 on leaving Xenia, one at London, where the general 
 direction of the road is changed, and one between 
 there and Columbus. From Xenia to Columbus 
 bridge, an air line is 52 miles ; while the railway is 
 only 54 miles, showing how near an air line this 
 road is. 
 
 London, 94 miles from Cincinnati, and 24 miles 
 from Columbus, is the county seat of Madison coun- 
 ty. On the next page is a view of the depot, and 
 
44 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 station house. Before we reach here, we cross a lit- 
 tle stream, which deserves to be mentioned, because 
 it is one of the sources of Deer Creek, a tributary of 
 the Scioto, which it joins about seven miles above 
 Chillicothe. The valley of Deer Creek is very fer- 
 tile, and its bottoms produce an immense quantity 
 of corn. 
 
 London is a small town of, perhaps, 500 inhabit- 
 ants. The country here has the same general char- 
 teristics we have described. Madison county, of 
 which it is the seat of justice, is not very populous ; 
 nor can it be, till the lands are subdivided. Being a 
 grazing country, the farms are of great size ; many 
 of them being a thousand acres, and upwards. Cai> 
 tle are here the leading product. Of these upwards 
 of 20,000 are owned in the county; and in the gra- 
 zing season, many more are pastured. The young cat- 
 tle are bought by the graziers in Illinois, Missouri, and 
 the far west ; and they are pastured and fed on the stock 
 farms of the Scioto, and its tributaries. These broad 
 champaign lands afford the pasture, and the corn crops 
 of the Scioto, Paint, Darby and Deer Creek, the corn 
 for fattening. Feeding cattle in Ohio is a lucrative 
 branch of farming. 
 
 Springfield and London Railroad, 19 miles to 
 Springfield. At this point, the Springfield Railroad 
 intersects the Xenia and Columbus R. R. This link 
 unites several important lines. It makes a connec- 
 
Bridge over Big Darby Creek. 45 
 
 tion between Springfield and Columbus 43 miles, 
 and at Springfield it connects with the Mad River 
 and Lake Erie R. R., which northwardly proceeds to 
 Sandusky, and southwardly to Dayton. At Dayton 
 the connection is made via the Greenville and Indian- 
 apolis line, with Central Indiana, via the Western R. 
 R., and the Central Indiana R. R., with Richmond 
 and Indianapolis ; and via the Cincinnati, Hamilton, 
 and Dayton, with Cincinnati. This short link is, 
 therefore, both convenient and important. 
 
 Bridge over Big Darby Creek, near West Jeffer- 
 son. A plate of the Bridge and Creek may be seen 
 on the opposite page. It is unfortunate for travel- 
 ers that they see very little of the scenery repre- 
 sented in the plates, while they are in the cars. One 
 must be below, in the valleys of streams, on the sides 
 of hills, and under the bridges, to see the real scene- 
 ry of the country, and enjoy it. The general aspect 
 of the country, however green and rich, at certain 
 seasons, is tame and monotonous ; yet along the bank 
 of Darby may be found some beautiful scenery. 
 
 Darby Creek, we must beg leave to bring more 
 distinctly to your notice, and revive, 0 ! Traveler, 
 some of your historical recollections. Historical re- 
 collections, in this new country ? you will say. Yes ! 
 and old recollections too of by gone times, and mem- 
 orable men. Let us walk a little together, by the 
 bank of Darby. About thirty miles below this, 
 
46 
 
 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 Darby creek flows into the Scioto, nearly opposite 
 the town of Circleville. Below the mouth of Darby, 
 on the Scioto, the country is called the Darby Plains, 
 broad, fertile, beautiful lands. On the Darby plains, 
 four miles below Darby, where now is the village of 
 West Fall, stood one of the Shawnee towns called 
 f Old Chillicothe." And there stood the cabin of 
 Logan. Have I not awakened your curiosity ? In 
 America, who has not heard of Logan ? With noth- 
 ing but his character to sustain him, he has made an 
 immortal name, amidst the renowned of the earth. 
 He was one of nature's noblemen, and has taken a 
 place, which no factitious rank could have conferred. 
 " But tvho" some stranger may say, 66 was Logan ?" 
 Let us pause awhile to hear the story of Logan. He 
 was a Mingo Chief, and is thus described by John 
 Heckewelder, the Moravian Missionary. 
 
 * Logan was the second son of Shikellamus, a cele- 
 brated chief of the Cayuga nation. This chief had a 
 strong attachment to the English Government, and 
 having the confidence of the Six Nations, was very 
 useful in settling disputes, &c. His residence was 
 at Shamokin, Avhere he took great delight in acts of 
 hospitality towards the whites. He was visited in 
 1742, at his residence, by Count Zinzendorf, to whom 
 his name and fame were made known. 
 
 In 1772, says Heckewelder, "Logan was introduced 
 to me by an Indian friend, as a son of the late chief 
 
Logan. 
 
 47 
 
 Shikellamus. In the course of conversation, I 
 thought him a man of superior talents to the Indi- 
 ans generally. The subject turning on vice and 
 immorality, he confessed his too great share of it, 
 especially a fondness for liquor. He censured the 
 whites for imposing liquor on the Indians, but ad- 
 mired their ingenuity; spoke of gentlemen, but ob- 
 served, the Indians unfortunately had too few of them 
 for neighbors ; spoke of his friendship for the whites, 
 and intention to settle on the Ohio, below Big Bea- 
 ver; and invited me to visit him. I was then living 
 at the Moravian Towns. In April, 1773, while on 
 my passage down the Ohio, from the Muskingum, I 
 called at Logan's settlement, where I received every 
 civility I could expect from such of the family as 
 were at home" 
 
 At this time, Logan was living at or near Yellow 
 Creek, Ohio. In the following year, (spring of 
 1774) according to the testimony of Ebenezer Zane, 
 a Captain Michael Cresap attacked and killed two 
 Indians. The next day, Cresap and Greathouse, 
 with a party of men, fell upon and killed another 
 party of Indians, at Grave Creek, below Wheeling. 
 Within a few days after, Greathouse's party killed 
 other Indians at Yellow Creek. In these several 
 unprovoked murders, the brother, sister, and all the 
 family of Logan were killed ; so that this friend of 
 the whites was left alone in the world, with all 
 
48 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 kindred cut off, by those who should have been his 
 protectors. 
 
 With such provocations and such barbarous cruelty 
 on the part of his dearest friends, was it strange the 
 red warrior felt the spirit of vengeance ? The last 
 affair had taken place on the 24th of May, 1774 ; 
 and on the 12th of July, Logan, with a few warriors, 
 had reached the settlement of the Monongahela; 
 where his first attack was on three men pulling flax 
 in a field. One was shot, and the two others taken. 
 These two — one of whom was a Mr. Robinson — 
 were taken to the Indian Town, where, according to 
 the usages of the Indians, they would have to run 
 the gauntlet, and then be burned, if not adopted into 
 some Indian family. But Logan delighted not in 
 torture. In the most friendly spirit he told Robin- 
 son how to escape the severities of the gauntlet 
 At last, however, he was tied to a stake, and would 
 have been burned; but Logan insisted on his being 
 adopted, cut the cords with his own hands, put a 
 belt of wampum upon him, and pointed out an old 
 woman, who was henceforth to be his aunt. He was 
 adopted instead of a warrior, killed at Yellow Creek- 
 
 These events gave rise to a most terrible Indian 
 war, which was finally terminated, by a decisive 
 battle at Point Pleasant, mouth of the Kenhawa. 
 There, the Shawanese, Mingoes and Delawares, were 
 defeated by the Virginia militia. The Indians sued 
 
Logan's Speech. 
 
 49 
 
 for peace. But Logan disdained to be among the 
 suppliants. But — lest the sincerity of the treaty 
 should be doubted — when so distinguished a chief 
 was absent, he sent to Lord Dunmore his celebrated 
 speech. The genuineness of this speech has been fully 
 established by the most abundant testimony. It 
 was delivered (according to Judge Gibson of Pitts- 
 bur gh) ; in the fall of 1774, when Dunmore's army 
 had reached within fifteen miles of " Old Chillicothe," 
 (now Westfall) where Logan then lived. A flag came 
 out to request an interview with some one, sent in 
 by Dunmore. Gibson, who could speak three lan- 
 guages, went in, and to him Logan delivered his 
 speech for Lord Dunmore. It was delivered, after 
 shedding many tears — a proof of the depth of feel- 
 ing with which it was attended. It was so remarka- 
 ble, as to strike everybody; and was immediately 
 published in the American Colonies, and throughout 
 Europe. It became the theme of wonder, and the 
 exercise of schools in eloquence ; and has ever since 
 been perpetuated as an example of oratory for youth. 
 The correct edition of his speech is the following : 
 
 "I appeal to any white man to say, if ever he en- 
 tered Logan's cabin hungry, and he gave him not 
 meat; if ever he came cold and naked, and he 
 clothed him not. During the course of the last long 
 and bloody war, Logan remained idle in his cabin, 
 an advocate for peace. Such was my love for the 
 5 
 
50 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 whites, that my countrymen pointed, as they passed, 
 and said, ' Logan is the friend of white men/ I had 
 even thought to have lived with you, but for the in- 
 juries of one man. Colonel Cresap, the last spring, 
 in cold blood, and unprovoked, murdered all the rela- 
 tions of Logan, not even sparing my women and 
 children. There runs not a drop of my blood in the 
 veins of any living creature. This called on me for 
 revenge. I have sought it. I have killed many. 
 I have glutted my vengeance. For my country, I 
 rejoice in the beams of peace. But do not harbor a 
 thought that mine is the joy of fear. Logan never 
 felt fear. He will not turn on his heel to save his 
 life. Who is there to mourn for Logan? Not one." 
 
 The authenticity of this speech is proved, as I 
 have said, by the testimony of Gibson to the de- 
 livery of it, and by abundance of other testimony to 
 all the material facts. 
 
 The close of Logan's life does not seem to be 
 known with certainty. The Indians reported, says 
 Heckewelder, that after the peace, he fell into a 
 deep melancholy. "Life," he said, "had become a 
 torment to him, and he knew no more what pleasure 
 was ; and he thought he had better never have ex- 
 isted." The single expression, "Who is there to 
 mourn for Logan?" carries with it the very depth of 
 melancholy. Nor is it strange. The heart of the 
 poor Indian was as tender as other hearts — and by 
 
Jonathan Alder. 
 
 51 
 
 fell murder, wife, children, and friends were taken from 
 him forever. Who was there to mourn for Logan? 
 
 The Indians said he became delirious, and went to 
 Detroit, drank freely, and was murdered between 
 that place and Miami. This story, however, is 
 doubtful. In the "American Pioneer," it is said that 
 he died of disease, in "Old Chillicothe," — on the 
 very spot where he delivered his renowned speech. 
 
 And now we must return up the Darby. The 
 cars are flying fast. These broad plains will soon 
 be gone, and Logan and his memory be effaced from 
 our minds. Very near where we are now, lived 
 Jonathan Alder, who was brought up entirely among 
 the Indians. He was captured in 1782, near Green- 
 briar, Va., and was saved only by the circumstance 
 of his having black hair, which induced his Indian 
 captor to think he would make a very good Indian. 
 He was adopted into the family of an Indian chief 
 of the Mingo tribe, w 7 ho had lost a son in battle. 
 
 Jonathan lived with Mary — a daughter of the 
 chief — who had become the wife of Col. Lewis, 
 another chief. He says they treated him with the 
 utmost kindness, and exclaims, " Oh ! never have I, 
 nor can I express the affection I had for these two 
 persons." Of their mode of living, he says, u I would 
 have lived very happy, if I could have had my 
 health; but for three or four years, I was subject to 
 very severe attacks of fever and ague. Their diet 
 
52 
 
 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 went very hard with me for a long time. Their 
 chief living was meat and hominy ; but we rarely 
 had bread, and very little salt, which was extremely 
 scarce and dear, as well as milk and butter. Honey 
 and sugar were plenty, and used a great deal in 
 their cooking, as well as on their food. 
 
 Alder was with the Indians at the time of Craw- 
 ford's defeat, and at the Mackachack towns, when 
 destroyed by Logan ; and remained with the Indians 
 till after Wayne's victory in 1795. When he grew 
 up, he took a squaw for wife, and lived on Darby 
 creek. When the settlers began to come there, he 
 learned to speak English, and soon began to farm 
 like the whites. He kept hogs, cows, and horses, 
 sold milk and butter to the Indians, and accumula- 
 ted property. Finally, Alder found, from some of 
 the settlers, where his mother and brothers lived j 
 returned to them, and like Joseph, made himself 
 known. At last, he separated from his Indian wife, 
 and henceforth lived like the whites. 
 
 In Alder, we see a strong illustration of the differ- 
 ences in races, as to habits and modes of life. The 
 moment Alder — who was nothing but an Indian in 
 his education — saw the white settlers farming and 
 cultivating the soil, he did the same, and accumula- 
 ted property by industry. The Indians might have 
 done the same. Why did they not ? This is the 
 precise difference. If the Indians had even been 
 
Fr anklinton. 
 
 53 
 
 able or willing to cultivate the soil, they would have 
 been civilized. But they did not. We cannot ac- 
 count for these things, unless there is some secret 
 instinct, which, by impelling them to different fami- 
 lies and tribes, impels them also to different desti- 
 nies. 
 
 Franklinton, 118 miles from Cincinnati, and op- 
 posite Columbus. This now old village, was laid 
 out many years before Columbus; but, as you see, 
 is on low ground, and by no means so well adapted 
 for a town. It was laid out in August, 1797, by 
 Lucas Sullivant, and was the first settlement in the 
 county. For several years, there was no mill or 
 post office nearer than Chillicothe, about 45 miles. 
 In the first years of its settlement, it was like all 
 other new places — especially on very rich soil — 
 extremely sickly, with the fever and ague. But 
 with the cultivation of the land, and the better mode 
 of living, the disease gradually disappeared; and 
 the site of Columbus and the adjacent country is 
 now quite healthy. 
 
 Columbus, the seat of Government for the State 
 of Ohio, is 118 miles from Cincinnati, and 135 miles 
 from Cleveland. We approach it by a bridge over 
 the Scioto, w r ith the Penitentiary in view, on the 
 left. 
 
 The Scioto River is one of the principal streams 
 in the State, and interlocks near the borders of Lo- 
 
54 
 
 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 gan county, with the head waters of the Little Mi- 
 ami, up which we ascended by the Little Miami Rail- 
 road 60 miles. Since then, we have passed over the 
 elevated plain, which divides the valleys of these 
 streams. We came on to the waters of the Scioto 40 
 miles west of Columbus, and have since been in what 
 geologists call the valley of the Scioto. The dis- 
 trict of land between the Scioto and Little Miami, is 
 called the f Virginia Military District." This w r as a 
 body of land granted by Congress to the officers and 
 soldiers of the Virginia line, in. the revolutionary 
 war. These lands were " located," as it is called, 
 under warrants issued by the State of Virginia. As 
 each man employed his own surveyor, and selected 
 his own land, the result was a great deal of confusion ; 
 but fortunately for the State of Ohio, much less 
 than in the State of Kentucky. The lands of 
 the Military District are probably among the best 
 in the United States. As the warrants were bought 
 by " locators," surveyors, etc., from the original own- 
 ers, this section of country became the scene of 
 great speculation. 
 
 The Scioto valley, so called, comprehends in all, 
 7,000 square miles, about the size of the State of 
 Massachusetts, and 350,000 inhabitants. The ma- 
 jority of the settlers were from Virginia and Ken- 
 tucky, and have given to this region many of their 
 peculiar chaiacteristics. 
 
Columbus. 
 
 55 
 
 Columbus is on the east "bank of the Scioto, in the 
 midst of the broad and beautiful plain, which consti- 
 tutes the central and western portion of Ohio. The 
 land in Franklin county was once the property of 
 the Wyandot Indians. They had a large town 
 here, and cultivated extensive fields of corn, where 
 Franklinton now is. It is a curious fact, that all the 
 considerable towns, which have grown up in the val- 
 ley of the Ohio, are on the site of old Indian towns. 
 It proves the sagacity of the Indians to be quite 
 equal to that of the whites in this particular. It 
 shows, also, that there are natural advantages in some 
 places, for towns and cities, which cannot be overlook- 
 ed. Just before Columbus was settled by the whites, 
 it was the scene of a singular Indian tragedy, whose 
 cause was not unfamiliar to the history of the whites, 
 and shows that frail human nature is everywhere the 
 same, however the habits and aptitudes of races may 
 differ. The cause of the tragedy was a charge of 
 witchcraft ! 
 
 The unfortunate subject of this charge was a "Wy- 
 andot chief, called Leatherlips ; and he was executed 
 for the supposed crime of witchcraft, which seems to 
 be outlawed in all countries. In June, 1810, Leath- 
 erlips was encamped on the Scioto, twelve miles 
 above the present Columbus, where he was visited 
 by six Wyandots, who, General Harrison said, were 
 direct from Tippecanoe, by the orders of Tecumthe, 
 
56 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 and his brother, the Prophet. Sentence of death had 
 been pronounced upon Leatherlips, when some whites, 
 who were present, made an effort to save his life ; 
 but in vain. A council was held. The warriors 
 spoke with warmth and bitterness ; and he replied 
 calmly and dispassionately. He was a second time 
 condemned and soon executed. When sentence was 
 again pronounced, the prisoner walked slowly to his 
 camp ; ate his dinner of jerked venison ; arrayed 
 himself in his best apparel, and painted his face. His 
 dress was very rich, his hair gray, and his whole ap- 
 pearance graceful and commanding. When the hour 
 of execution arrived, he shook hands in silence with 
 the spectators. Then turning from his wigwam, 
 with a voice of surpassing strength and melody, he 
 commenced the chant of the death song. He was 
 followed close by the Wyandot warriors, all timing 
 with their slow and measured march, the music of his 
 wild and melancholy dirge. The white men, too, 
 joined, as silent followers, in that strange procession. 
 At the distance of eighty yards from the camp, they 
 came to a shallow grave, which had already been 
 prepared. Here the old man knelt down, and in a 
 solemn and elevated voice, addressed his prayer to 
 the Great Spirit ! Then the captain of the Indians 
 knelt down, and prayed in a similar manner, — the 
 prayers of both being in the Wyandot tongue. 
 There was not a weapon of any kind to be seen in 
 
Columbus. 
 
 57 
 
 the party, when suddenly one of the warriors drew 
 from beneath the skirts of his capote, a keen, bright 
 tomahawk, walked rapidly up behind the chief, bran- 
 dished it on high, and struck it into the head of his 
 victim. Another blow, and Leatherlips was dead. 
 The cold drops of sweat which were gathered on his 
 neck and face, were pointed to, by his exultant exe- 
 cutioners, as proofs of his guilt ! 
 
 Such was an Indian execution, and all the circum- 
 stances about it prove how completely ignorance and 
 superstition control the hearts of men, whether 
 white, red, or black. 
 
 The seat of government, in Ohio, was not estab- 
 lished till 1816. Prior to that, the sessions of the 
 Legislature had been held at Chillicothe, and at 
 Zanesville. In 1812, the proposals of Lyne Starling 
 and others were accepted for the establishment of a 
 permanent seat of government. The town was laid 
 out in that year. On the 18th of June, — the same 
 day on which war was declared with Great Britain, 
 — the first public sale of lots was held. The first 
 building erected for public worship, was built in 1814, 
 for the Presbyterians. The first State House was 
 built in 1814. The first session of the legislature 
 held in Columbus, was in 1816. The first county 
 Court House was built in 1819. The city charter 
 was granted in 1834. Thus, though Columbus was 
 laid out only forty years since in the woods, and had 
 
58 
 
 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 no mail for many years, yet it lias grown up to be 
 a large town. There are not more than thirty cities 
 and towns in the United States, larger than Colum- 
 bus. The progress of its growth has been thus : 
 In 1820, population - - - - 1,400 
 In 1830 " .... 2,437 
 
 In 1840 " .... 6,048 
 
 In 1850 " .... 17,100 
 
 In 1854 " .... 22,000 
 
 The causes of its growth are various. The erec- 
 tion of many great public buildings ; and the ex- 
 penditure of large sums of public money, is one 
 cause. Manufactories, of which there are sever a 
 large establishments, is another. The great fertility 
 of the surrounding country, adds also largely to its 
 resources. The number of persons in public insti- 
 tutions and in public employment here, cannot be 
 less than 1,000. At the present time, Columbus is 
 likely to be the centre of numerous railways cross- 
 ing the State in various directions. 
 
 The public buildings are so numerous and remark- 
 able, as to be worthy of special note. Indeed, if the 
 traveler can afford time to spend a day here, and ex- 
 amine the Lunatic Asylum, the Deaf and Dumb Asy- 
 lum, the Blind Asylum, and the Penitentiary, he will 
 be amply repaid for his trouble. 
 
 The Capitol of Ohio, now near completion, is one 
 of the largest, and most beautiful public buildings 
 
Capitol of Ohio. 
 
 59 
 
 in the United States. It is built of Ohio marble, (as 
 it is called,) which is a light gray limestone, at once 
 durable and handsome. It is the largest building of 
 the kind in the country, except the Capitol of the 
 United States, at Washington. The following are 
 the dimensions of some of the State Capitols, as re- 
 ported by the State House Commissioners : 
 
 The Capitol of Ohio, at Columbus, is 304 by 184 
 
 feet, and covers an area of 55,936 feet. 
 
 The Capitol of the U. S., at Washington, covers 61,693 " 
 The Capitol of Tennessee, at Nashville, is 240 
 
 by 135 feet, and covers 32,400 " 
 
 The Capitol at Raleigh, N. C. 14,940 " 
 
 The Capitol at Harrisburg, Penn. 14,400 " 
 
 The Capitol of Indiana, at Indianapolis - - - 14,400 " 
 
 The Capitol of Vermont, at Montpelier - - - 12,200 " 
 
 It will be seen that the Capitol of Ohio is but 
 slightly less in area than that of the United States ; 
 while it is nearly double the Capitol of Tennessee, 
 and quadruple the largest in other states. 
 
 The Ohio Lunatic Asylum is a noble structure, 
 occupying a commanding position, in an open space 
 of ground about a mile east of the Capitol. There 
 are thirty acres of ground attached to it, with a lawn 
 in front, ornamented with shrubbery. 
 
 The building is in the form of a hollow square, 
 the main front being 376 feet in length. The centre 
 is 296 feet by 46 in depth. The wings 40 feet 
 each, project beyond the centre 11 feet, and extend 
 
60 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 back 218 feet, thus forming a large court in the rear. 
 The superficial fronts, (three sides,) of the building 
 thus extend 812 feet. It contains 440 rooms, and 
 covers an acre of ground. The style of the struc- 
 ture is in good taste, and it presents a very imposing 
 appearance. 
 
 This institution commenced operations in Novem- 
 ber, 1838. From that time to 1851, there have been 
 admitted 1,841 patients. Of these 897 have been 
 cured. 
 
 Of the number of recent cases admitted to the Asy- 
 lum, 75 per cent, recover, so that the chances of 
 recovery from lunacy, when the patient is cared for 
 in time, are very nearly as great as in any other dis- 
 order. Many are carried to the Asylum who 
 have been hopelessly maniacs, or idiotic, for years, 
 and therefore ought not to be included in the number 
 from whom cures are expected. 
 
 The Ohio Penitentiary, is also a very interesting 
 institution. The building is an imposing edifice, on 
 the east bank of the Scioto, just above the railroad 
 bridge, and in sight of the cars. It is built of Ohio 
 marble, and contains 350 cells in each wing. The 
 cells are constructed of solid stone, with iron doors. 
 
 The Penitentiary generally contains about 500 
 prisoners, who are employed in useful manufactures, 
 of various kinds. Many of them have been enga- 
 
Ohio Benevolent Institutions. 61 
 
 ged in the erection of the Capitol, in which they 
 have done good service. 
 
 The labor of the prisoners yields about $20,000 
 per annum to the State ; so that the cost of their 
 support is not much. The discipline of the institu- 
 tion is very severe, and great effort is made to give 
 the prisoners religious instruction. In some instan- 
 ces, no doubt, the instruction and discipline of the 
 Penitentiary has proved useful, and there are those, 
 who have come out reformed, and passed decent and 
 respectable lives. But, on the whole, it is questiona- 
 ble whether penitentiary punishment is really bene- 
 ficial. A large number of the prisoners learn more 
 evil than good ; and many come out more inveterate 
 felons, than they went in ; returning to the Peniten- 
 tiary for new offences, two, three, and four times. 
 Why can we not colonize our convicts in some Island 
 of the Pacific ? We should then remove the offend- 
 ing cause of crime, and put away so much evil from 
 the community. 
 
 The Ohio Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, is 
 also a well conducted and interesting institution. 
 The building is built of brick, plain, with wings. In 
 1852 it contained 129 pupils. The instruction in 
 the Deaf and Dumb Asylum has been very suc- 
 cessful. 
 
 The Ohio Institution for the Education of the 
 Blind, was established in 1837, and like the other 
 
62 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 public institutions, is supported by the State. In 
 1852 the number of pupils was 68, and the instruc- 
 tion successful. 
 
 In addition to these public institutions, Columbus 
 has a great many buildings of its own, and is, in 
 fact, a very handsome town. The County Court 
 House is a handsome building. The Neil House is 
 one of the largest hotels in the United States. 
 There are many and fine churches, with several 
 private residences, of the most imposing appearance. 
 Notwithstanding Columbus seemed to have no spe- 
 cial advantages, as a town, it has nevertheless grown 
 with great rapidity; and is now the third city of 
 Ohio. 
 
 Columbus is also one of the railroad centres of the 
 State. The Little Miami and Xenia R. R., on which 
 we have been moving, here unites with the Cleve- 
 land, Columbus and Cincinnati R. R., making a 
 continuous railroad line from Cincinnati to Cleveland, 
 252 miles in length. 
 
 The Columbus, Piqua, and Indiana Railroad is 
 between Columbus and Union, where it connects 
 with the Indianapolis and Bellefontaine railroad; 
 and thence to the Wabash and the Mississippi. It 
 is 102 miles in length, and passes through Urbana 
 and Piqua. 
 
 The Central Railroad lies between Columbus 
 and Wheeling, 140 miles. It passes through New- 
 
Columbus. 
 
 63 
 
 ark and Zanesville ; and is finished to Cambridge, 84 
 miles. The residue will be finished this year. 
 
 At Wheeling, the Central road will connect with 
 the Baltimore and Ohio railroad, going to Baltimore, 
 and with the Hempfield railroad, and thence to 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 The Columbus and Chillicothe line is chartered 
 and will be constructed. 
 
 From Columbus the traveler may proceed to all 
 the most considerable towns in Ohio, and to all the 
 cities of the Northern and Western States, by railway, 
 reaching any of them in a very short time. 
 
 As a State Capital, Columbus will compare well 
 with any of those in the older States. Of all the 
 State Capitals, Columbus is the most populous, ex- 
 cept Boston, Albany and Richmond ; and in regard 
 to public institutions and buildings, is thought to 
 equal even them. When we reflect that it is only 
 forty years since the town was laid out in a wilder- 
 ness, this must be regarded as one of the most stri- 
 king evidences of the rapid growth and prosperity of 
 the Western people. 
 
 From Columbus, our route pursues the valley of 
 the Olentangy, an Eastern branch of the Scioto. 
 The railway company here is under a different char- 
 ter — that of the Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati 
 R. R. Co., — but the whole line is worked together, 
 
64 
 
 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 and as to the public convenience and management, 
 is, in reality, but one road. 
 
 From Columbus north, we still see the same fertile 
 lands ; but less cultivated than between Columbus 
 and Cincinnati. The railway having been construct- 
 ed but a few years, and departing, (on account of 
 grades and distance,) widely from the public high- 
 ways, does not pass through the old settled and cul- 
 tivated lands. The traveler, therefore, will scarcely 
 comprehend, without resorting to a book of statistics, 
 how it is, that this portion of Ohio produces such an 
 enormous quantity of grain, wool, and other valuable 
 products. Without alarming you, my fellow travel- 
 er, with the dry bones of statistics, I may as well 
 give you an idea of the production within an average 
 of fifteen miles on each side of this road. Between 
 Columbus and Cleveland, this road passes through 
 some part of the following counties, viz : Franklin, 
 Delaware, Morrow, Richland, Crawford, Huron, Lo- 
 rain, and Cuyahoga. The general aggregate of ag- 
 ricultural productions in these counties, as ascertained 
 by the last returns, was as follows : two million eight 
 hundred thousand bushels of wheat ; jive million eight 
 hundred bushels of corn; six million seven hundred 
 thousand pounds of butter ; one million three hundred 
 and sixty thousand pounds of cheese ; and one million 
 four hundred thousand pounds of wool This is a very 
 great production for a surface of land not exceeding 
 
• 
 
WORTHINGTON. 
 
 65 
 
 three thousand square miles. More than half of this 
 production is surplus^ which is carried to New Eng- 
 land, and New York, chiefly for consumption. These 
 facts show, that while there is no great display of 
 farms on the immediate line of the road, there is 
 within its reach a very fine agricultural section. 
 
 Worthington, 9 miles from Columbus, is the first 
 considerable town we come to, north of Columbus. 
 It is in sight, and not more than a half a mile from 
 the road. Here the venerable Bishop Chase com- 
 menced his labors in the west, in the service of re- 
 ligion and education; and from the station we may 
 see the buildings where Kenyon College had its 
 birth. Worthington derives its name from Thomas 
 Worthington, one of the earliest settlers, and most 
 distinguished men in the State. He emigrated to 
 Ohio about 1793, from Berkeley county, Virginia. 
 Being extremely averse to slavery, he emancipated 
 his slaves ; but most of them desired to go with him ; 
 so that he brought about sixty of those emancipated 
 slaves to this State. Their descendants make up a 
 large part of the colored people at Chillicothe, where 
 he resided. He was an active and most energetic 
 man of business ; but was very soon carried into 
 public life, which henceforth occupied most of his 
 time. He was a member from Ross county of the 
 Convention which framed the first Constitution. He 
 was one of the two first United States Senators from 
 6 
 
66 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 this State. He was ten years in the Senate, where 
 he was of great service, in the business of the nation, 
 and much confided in by the administrations of Jef- 
 ferson and Madison. Subsequently, he was four 
 years Governor of the State ; and in his latter days 
 Canal Commissioner. In all his public career, he 
 rendered most useful service, and commanded uni- 
 versal respect. 
 
 Delaware, 24 miles from Columbus, is the county 
 seat of Delaware county. It is about two miles from 
 the main line, but has a side curve about five miles 
 in length. Delaware was named by the Delaware 
 Indians, one of the principal original tribes in the 
 United States. The name of this once powerful 
 tribe, says Col. John Johnston, is Wa be nugh ka, the 
 people from the East, or sunrising. The tradition 
 among themselves is, that at some remote period, 
 they emigrated from the West, crossed the Missis- 
 sippi, ascended the Ohio, and fought their way, till 
 they reached the Delaware river, (named from Lord 
 Delaware,) near where Philadelphia now stands, in 
 which region of country they became fixed. They 
 ever regarded the Quakers with respect and affec- 
 tion. They finally removed to the West, and some 
 of them are now in the Indian Territory, west of the 
 Mississippi. 
 
 Delaware was laid out by Moses Byxbe and the 
 late Judge Henry Baldwin of Pittsburgh. The first 
 
A Bear Fight. 
 
 67 
 
 brick house was erected in 1808, and there being no 
 mason, Byxbe's mfe laid all the brick on the inside 
 walls. In the early settlement of the West, women 
 had many employments which are now unknown to 
 them — and there was little occasion for Women 
 Rights' Conventions, when woman shared in all the 
 labors, dangers, and glory of the pioneers. 
 
 It was not till 1823, that the first church was 
 built ; but now, Delaware is a large and flourishing 
 village. By the census, Delaware town has 2,074 
 inhabitants. It has several churches, a large hotel, 
 a bank, two newspapers, and all the other circum- 
 stantials which belong to a pleasant, growing town. 
 Among the notables of the town, are Delaware 
 Springs, and the Wesleyan University. The springs 
 are said to be salutary, being strongly impregnated 
 with sulphur and other mineral substances. The 
 Wesleyan University was founded by the Metho- 
 dists, and numbers the present year 594 students. 
 
 A Bear Fight is very often talked about, but 
 very seldom experienced. One occurred in this 
 neighborhood, which is more remarkable than any I 
 ever heard of. There was a Captain John Minter, 
 among the early settlers, who was originally from 
 Kentucky, and became famous by his great bear 
 fight. Seeing a very large bear, he fired upon him, 
 and the bear fell. Supposing him dead, — after re- 
 loading — he touched bruin's nose with his gun, when 
 
68 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 lie instantly sprung up. He fired upon him again, 
 only slightly wounding him. As the hear sprang 
 forward, he threw his tomahawk at him, and finally 
 broke his rifle on his head. All would not do : on 
 came the enraged bear. Too late to escape, he drew 
 his big knife, and made a plunge; but the beast 
 struck it from his hand, and at once folded Minter 
 in his embrace. Fortunately, he was tall, strong- 
 muscled and athletic. The bear calculated upon 
 hugging his adversary to death very soon ; but Min- 
 ter contrived to twist his body in such ways, that 
 Mr. Bruin could not crush him. The woods were 
 open, without underbrush, and they rolled over in 
 every direction. Several times, he thought he was 
 gone ; but being strong, he choked the bear, when 
 the latter would be obliged to let go a moment to 
 knock off his hands. They struggled in this way 
 for hours, when luckily, they rolled back near where 
 the knife lay, when, after many efforts, he brought 
 bruin near enough to grasp the knife. Then you 
 may depend, he was not long in using it. He stabbed 
 the bear repeatedly till he bled to death — never re- 
 leasing his hold till life was gone ! Not a rag was 
 left on Minter ; and his body and limbs were lacera- 
 ted with the claws of the bear. He was only able 
 to crawl to a log, till rested ; and then could only 
 crawl home, with no covering but blood. When his 
 friends came to view the ground next morning, they 
 
Ashley to Galion. 
 
 69 
 
 found the surface torn up for half an acre. His scars 
 and welts always remained — and he gave up hunting 
 forever. 
 
 Ashley, 150 miles from Cincinnati, and 104 from 
 Cleveland, is a small, new place, in Morrow county. 
 This and the next five places, have w T holly grown up 
 since the location of the railroad. 
 
 Cardington, 156 miles from Cincinnati, and 96 
 miles from Cleveland, is another new village of Mor- 
 row county. It contains about 400 inhabitants, and 
 from all appearances, is growing with rapidity. 
 
 Gilead Station, 161 miles from Cincinnati, 41 
 miles from Columbus, and 91 from Cleveland. The 
 village is about 2i miles to the east. Gilead is the 
 county seat of Morrow, and contains about 800 in- 
 habitants. It formerly belonged to Marion county, 
 from which it was set off, to make the new county. 
 
 Galion, 174 miles from Cincinnati, and 78 from 
 Cleveland. This is chiefly distinguished as a rail- 
 road station, and the intersection of the Cincinnati 
 and Cleveland Railroad, with the Bellefontaine and 
 Indiana Railroad. The Bellefontaine and Indiana is 
 118 miles in length, and at Union, the State line of 
 Ohio and Indiana, connects with the Indianapolis and 
 Bellefontaine Railroad, 83 miles in length, which 
 make 201 miles from Galion to Indianapolis, There 
 it connects with the various railroads going to Madi- 
 son, Terre Haute, and La Fayette. 
 
70 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 Galion is in the county of Crawford, — one corner 
 of which we pass through. 
 
 Crawford county was named from Col. William 
 Crawford, who also gave name to Crawford's Defeat, 
 one of the most disastrous battles which ever took 
 place between the whites and Indians. Crawford 
 was a Virginian, born in the same year with Wash- 
 ington — who was his friend, and often, in his visits 
 to the west, became an inmate of his humble dwell- 
 ing, in Fayette county, Pennsylvania. He raised a 
 regiment in the Revolution, by his own exertions, 
 and became a Colonel of Continentals. In 1783, he 
 very reluctantly engaged in this expedition against 
 the Indians, the result of which was total defeat, and 
 his own death, amidst excruciating tortures. 
 
 Whatever might have been Crawford's merits, the 
 result was a measure of just retribution. In the 
 preceding year, the whites attacked and destroyed 
 the innocent and unoffending Christian Indians, at 
 the Moravian Towns. The leader of this most cruel 
 and horrid outrage, was a Col. Williamson. The 
 poor Indians, unsuspicious, had quietly surrendered 
 to Williamson and his men; who decided they should 
 all be killed, — murdered. Their faith and devotion 
 never left them; but they died amidst their prayers. 
 * Their orisons were already ascending the throne of 
 the Most High ! The sound of the Christian hymn, 
 and the Christian prayer, found an echo in the sur- 
 
Col. Crawford. 
 
 71 
 
 rounding woods, but no responsive feeling in the 
 bosom of their executioners. With gun, and spear, 
 and tomahawk, and scalping knife, the work of death 
 progressed in these slaughter houses, till not a sigh 
 or moan was heard, to proclaim the existence of hu- 
 man life within. All died, save two Indian boys, 
 who escaped, as if by miracle, to be witnesses in af- 
 ter times, of the savage cruelty of the white man 
 towards their unfortunate race." Congress felt the 
 atrocity of this act, and passed an ordinance for the 
 encouragement of the Moravian Missions. Provi- 
 dence, however, avenged this murder in the most 
 signal manner, as if purposely to mark the divine 
 displeasure on the persecutors of his servants. 
 
 As we have said, in the year following, Col. Craw- 
 ford reluctantly led a large body of frontier men, 
 in another expedition against the Indians. Let it 
 not be supposed, that any sentiment of mercy or 
 humanity had entered the hearts of this body, in 
 consequence of the preceding atrocities. On the 
 contrary, this expedition was planned to destroy the 
 Wyandot towns, on the Sandusky; and it was re- 
 solved to spare neither man, woman, or child — 
 friendly or unfriendly. The intention of the whites 
 was to proceed with secrecy; but this was vain. 
 The Indians — by their scouts — knew their numbers, 
 object, and plan. The army reached the upper Mo- 
 ravian towns 5 but they were deserted. It pursued 
 
72 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 its way across the Sandusky plains, till the Indians 
 were met in full force. A battle ensued, in which 
 neither party had the victory; but the Indians 
 continued to increase in such numbers, that a retreat 
 took place at night. In the retreat, several large 
 parties detached themselves from the main body, 
 thinking thus to avoid the Indians ; but it turned 
 out the reverse. These parties were nearly all cut 
 off and destroyed. Col. Crawford, who had lingered 
 behind, to look for, and save some of his friends, was 
 cut off, and taken by the Indians. He was carried 
 to the Indian towns, and after many tortures and 
 cruelties, was burnt alive. 
 
 The danger of being found in bad company, was 
 never more signally illustrated, than in this instance. 
 Williamson, it was, as I have related, who had com- 
 manded the party, which destroyed the Moravian 
 towns. The Indians looked upon him, as not only a 
 cruel, but a very bad man, and were determined to 
 have full vengeance. When Crawford took com- 
 mand of the second party, they associated him with 
 Williamson — although they knew and had a good 
 opinion of him. This association with Williamson, 
 was the cause of his cruel death ; for when Crawford 
 sent for Wingemunn, a chief whom he knew, and 
 who was friendly to him, Wingemunn told him that 
 nothing could be done to save him ; for he was in 
 company with that bad man, Williamson. Crawford 
 
Col. Crawford. 
 
 73 
 
 answered, that he went out to restrain Williamson, 
 and prevent him from committing cruelties. Win- 
 gemunn replied, that the Indians w r ould not believe 
 that, if he told them ; for they knew he could not 
 prevent them. 
 
 A paragraph from this dialogue, as reported by 
 Heckewelder, is worth quoting ; for it shows the In- 
 dian sagacity and sense of justice. It is given thus : 
 
 Crawford — Out of my power ! Have any Mora- 
 vian Indians been killed or hurt since we came out ? 
 
 Wingemimn — None ; but you first went to their 
 town, and finding it deserted, you turned on the 
 path towards us. If you had been in search of war- 
 riors only, you would not have gone thither. Our 
 spies watched you closely. They saw you while 
 you were embodying yourselves on the other side of 
 the Ohio. They saw you cross the river. They 
 saw where you encamped for the night. They saw 
 you turn off from the path to the deserted American 
 town. They knew you were going out of the way. 
 Tour steps were constantly watched, and you were 
 suffered quietly to proceed, until you reached the 
 spot where you were attacked.'' 
 
 Crawford felt that with this sentence, ended his 
 last ray of hope, and now asked with emotion, a what 
 do they intend to do with me ? " 
 
 Wingemimn. — I tell you with grief. As William- 
 son and his whole cowardly host, ran off in the night, 
 
74 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 at the whistling of our warriors' balls, being satisfied 
 that now he had no Moravians to deal with, but men 
 who could fight, and with such he did not wish to 
 have anything to do. I say, as they have escaped, 
 and taken you, they will take revenge on you, in 
 his stead." 
 
 And so they did. And the story of Crawford's 
 defeat will long be remembered, for its woes and its 
 losses. But was it not retributive justice? Was 
 ever anything more cruel, more awfully unjust, than 
 the slaughter of the peaceful, unoffending Moravian 
 Indians? Was there ever a greater iniquity, than 
 that act, as described by Wingemunn, of turning off 
 from their real enemies, to pursue a second time, 
 these poor Moravians? 
 
 I have given the story, as an illustration of our 
 border wars, and of the frequent instances in which 
 the whites were the aggressors. I have already 
 said, that in fact, and ultimately, the barbarous Indi- 
 ans could have no solid right to a continent which 
 they were unable to cultivate or civilize. That is 
 true; but, atrocities such as that upon the Moravian 
 Indians, can have no apology in any human code of 
 morals. It was a dark wrong— diabolical in its 
 spirit, and inhuman in its act. 
 
 Crestline is an important railway station, at the 
 intersection of two great lines of railway, viz : the 
 Cincinnati and Cleveland line, and the continuation 
 
Shelby. 
 
 75 
 
 of the Pennsylvania Central, through Ohio and Indi- 
 ana. From Crestline to Pittsburgh, by the Ohio 
 and Pennsylvania Railroad, is 187 miles; and from 
 Crestline to Fort Wayne, Indiana, 120 miles. From 
 Pittsburgh to Philadelphia, is 353 miles. Thus, 
 there is a continuous line of Railway, from Philadel- 
 phia, — via Pittsburgh, Crestline, Bucyrus, Crawford 
 county, Lima, Allen county, — to Fort Wayne; 
 thence, a system of railways — now constructing — 
 will take the traveler to any point on the Ohio, the 
 Wabash, or Lake Michigan. At Crestline, therefore, 
 he can, if he please, depart to any point in the Uni- 
 ted States. Large and handsome depots and shops 
 are erected here for the accommodation of the exten- 
 sive business which must necessarily be conducted 
 at this point. 
 
 Shelby (of which we have given a view), is also 
 an important station. Here the track of the Mans- 
 field and Lake Erie Railroad, crosses that of the 
 Cleveland and Cincinnati line. Here the traveler 
 may have a choice of routes. He may go to San- 
 dusky City, by the Mansfield Railroad, or he may 
 go south to Mansfield, Mount Vernon, Newark, and 
 Zanesville. At Newark, the Mansfield Railroad 
 connects with the Scioto and Hocking Railroad, 
 which will continue it to Portsmouth, on the Ohio. 
 When completed, this will make one of the through 
 lines of the State, — passing from Sandusky City, 
 
76 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 through Shelbj^ Mansfield, Mount Vernon, Newark, 
 Lancaster, Logan, Jackson, to Portsmouth — and pene- 
 trating the western edge of the mineral regions of 
 Ohio. 
 
 Mansfield, — for which Shelby is the station — is a 
 large town of about 4,000 inhabitants — county seat 
 of Richland county. It was named from General 
 Jared Mansfield, Surveyor General of the North- 
 western Territory, from 1803 to 1812. Richland is 
 one of the great wheat counties, which extend in a 
 sort of belt through this part of Ohio. It is quite 
 singular, that although Ave are now in the most pro- 
 ductive grain region of the United States, w r e see 
 scarcely any indications of it! Everything is new, 
 and the fields are not remarkably well cultivated. 
 The reason, however, is obvious. The railway, to 
 obtain proper grades, has gone on a new path, 
 avoiding all the old highways, and therefore leaving 
 out of sight, the best houses and farms. That we 
 may have some idea, however, of what this wheat 
 belt really does produce, I take the following facts 
 from the Auditor of State's Report. Including the 
 county we are in, there are just thirteen counties, 
 viz : Morrow, Richland, Knox, Ashland, Wayne, 
 Holmes, Coshocton, Stark, Tuscarawas, Columbiana, 
 Carroll, Harrison, and Jefferson, between the west 
 line of Richland and the Ohio River. These coun- 
 ties cover a surface of 6,000 square miles, and pro- 
 
Salem to Greenwich. 
 
 77 
 
 duced in the year 1850, nine million of bushels of 
 wheat, and six million five hundred thousand bushels of 
 corn! These counties contained 350,000 inhabi- 
 tants ; so that they raised a surplus of at least six 
 million of bushels of wheat! No part of the United 
 States of equal extent, raises the same amount; 
 indeed no single State produces a surplus equal to 
 that of these counties, in 1850. If the traveler 
 could leave the railway at the Shelby station, and 
 take a buggy, — traveling on the common roads of 
 the country, — he would then see something of these 
 waving fields of wheat and corn, which make this 
 the granary of the West. 
 
 Salem is only a station, 193 miles from Cincinnati, 
 and 60 miles from Cleveland. It is on the northern 
 edge of Richland county. 
 
 Greenwich, 199 miles from Cincinnati, and 54 
 miles from Cleveland, is in Huron, the western county 
 of the Western Reserve. 
 
 The Western Reserve, as it is commonly called, 
 is every where known as a particular section of 
 Ohio — almost amounting to a separate State. It is 
 also called "New Connecticut," from the fact that it 
 was originally owned and chiefly settled by Connec- 
 ticut. The manner in which it came to belong 
 to Connecticut is very curious When the first 
 charters were granted to the American Colonies, 
 there w r as great ignorance in regard to the geogra- 
 
78 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 phy of this continent. Indeed, it was an unexplored 
 region — a complete terra incognita. The charters, 
 therefore, frequently conflicted with one another. 
 This was the case with the charter of Connecticut, 
 by which King Charles the II. conveyed to the Con- 
 necticut Colony, all the lands between the 41st and 
 42d degrees of latitude, from the Providence planta- 
 tion to the Pacific Ocean ! This, of course, conflicted 
 with New York and Pennsylvania, with whom there 
 immediately arose an altercation. In 1786, Connect- 
 icut, in common with the other States, granted to 
 the General Government, all her western lands ; but 
 kept up her claims on Pennsylvania and New York. 
 At length, the United States Government compro- 
 mised the matter, by reserving to the State of Con- 
 necticut this district, containing 3,800,000 acres, — 
 which the State has since sold, and the proceeds of 
 which constitutes the basis of the Connecticut School 
 Funds. The Reserve contains twelve counties, viz : 
 Ashtabula, Trumbull, Mahoning, Lake, Geauga, Por- 
 tage, Cuyahoga, Summit, Medina, Lorain, Erie, and 
 Huron. We are now traversing Huron. This is a 
 productive county — being level and generally rich. 
 The arable ground, (about 50,000 acres in cultiva- 
 tion), is about equally divided, between the culture 
 of corn and wheat. Large parts of the lands of this 
 county, however, are used as pastures and meadows 
 — which feed great numbers of cattle and sheep. 
 
New London to Rochester. 79 
 
 Huron was originally constituted entirely out of 
 the "Fire Lands/' — a body of land given by the 
 State of Connecticut, to those of its citizens who 
 suffered by fire in the revolutionary war. These 
 were principally in the towns of Norwalk, Danbury, 
 and New Haven. As usual, however, most of them 
 fell into the hands of speculators, and some of them 
 have been held by the original purchasers to this day. 
 
 We cross, near Greenwich, the head waters of 
 Vermillion River, which empties into Lake Erie, at 
 the port of Vermillion, — a place which has consid- 
 erable commerce. 
 
 New London is the next station, 47 miles from 
 Cleveland. After leaving this station, we soon pass 
 out of Huron county, and come to 
 
 Rochester, 41 miles from Cleveland. This station 
 is in Lorain county. This county has no great com- 
 mercial town, but is nevertheless, a fast growing and 
 flourishing district. It is much less productive in 
 grain, than the counties we have just passed through, 
 but has large numbers of cattle and sheep, and fine 
 pasturage. Its principal towns are Elyria, the county 
 seat, and the celebrated Oberlin. It is watered by 
 Black River, — at whose mouth there centres consid- 
 erable commerce. The rivers of the Reserve are all 
 quite short — only about 40 or 50 miles in length — 
 and not navigable — yet as their mouths constitute 
 almost the only harbors on the Lakes, they have 
 
80 
 
 The Illustrated Guide, 
 
 created points of concentration for navigation and 
 commerce. This is the case with the Maumee, San- 
 dusky, Huron, Vermillion, Black River, Cuyahoga, 
 and Grand River; from all of which — even the 
 smallest — there is a large export trade. 
 
 In traveling through Lorain and Cuyahoga, the 
 traveler will note that he is not only in the " Reserve," 
 hut he is in a very different country, as to soil and 
 geological appearances. In the Miami country, we 
 found valleys of rich black soil, of exceeding fertility 
 — surrounded by rolling hills, round and graceful. 
 As we came through the wheat "belt, we found the 
 land rolling — but scarcely any hills — with a loamy 
 soil, — neither the black alluvian, nor the clay ; but 
 well adapted to the small grain; but now, as we 
 approach the Lake, the ground is flat and clayey — 
 producing fine grass, but not very productive in 
 grain. The original opinion held of these soils, may 
 be known, by the early classification of soils. That 
 of the Miami valleys, was set down as first rate ; 
 that of the middle counties, as second rate ; and that 
 of the Reserve, as third rate. Judged by the stand- 
 ard of Indian corn, this was a correct classification. 
 But Nature has a way peculiar to every kind of 
 soil, as well as plant. These lands of the Reserve, 
 produce excellent grass; and its inhabitants make 
 up in cheese, and butter, and wool, what they lack 
 in com. 
 
Wellington Station. 81 
 
 Wellington Station, also in Lorain, is 36 miles 
 from Cleveland. We are now about nine miles from 
 Oberlin, an institution, which, in its early stages, 
 excited many prejudices.; but which seems to have 
 triumphed over all, and established for itself a high 
 reputation. Its characteristics are peculiar. It is 
 exclusively religious. It admits persons of both 
 sexes, and all colors. It teaches the dead languages, 
 but without the heathen classics; and it endeavors 
 to give a thoroughly useful education — physical, 
 moral, and intellectual. From 1840 to 1845, it had 
 an average of 500 students annually ; and we are 
 informed it now has 1000. This is certainly great 
 success as to numbers ; and time seems to strengthen, 
 rather than impair confidence in its usefulness. 
 
 La Grange Station is 29 miles from Cleveland. 
 
 Grafton, 25 miles from Cleveland, is at the inter- 
 section of the Cleveland and Columbus Railroad 
 with the Toledo, Norwalk, and Cleveland Railroad, 
 and also at the crossing of Black River. The Toledo, 
 Norwalk, and Cleveland Railroad, commences at 
 Toledo, where it connects with the Michigan roads, 
 and passing through Fremont, the county seat of 
 Sandusky, and Norwalk, the county seat of Huron, 
 intersects the Cleveland road, at this place. From 
 Grafton to Toledo is 84 miles ; and from Cleveland 
 to Toledo is 112 miles, which is run in about five 
 7 
 
82 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 hours. On the opposite page, is a view of Grafton 
 station, 
 
 Olmstead, 15 miles from Cleveland. Near this, 
 we cross Rocky River, by a fine bridge. 
 
 Here, we begin to see a few scattered pines and 
 cedars — denoting a total change in the geological 
 features of the country. From this to Western New 
 York, and Northern Pennsylvania — comprehending 
 a very large tract of country — the pine is one of the 
 predominant trees — diversifying the scenery with its 
 deep evergreen and its straight trunk. 
 
 Berea is three miles further, at the falls of the 
 east branch of Rocky River. Berea is chiefly known 
 for its grindstones, of which there are great num- 
 bers made here. It was originally laid out by a 
 sort of stock company, who had formed high ideas 
 of the benefits of association. 
 
 At this point, we are very near the Junction Ohio 
 Railroad, from Cleveland to Sandusky — which, how- 
 ever, pursues a separate track to Cleveland. This 
 road is now consolidated with the Toledo, Norwalk, 
 and Cleveland — under the name of the Cleveland 
 and Toledo Railroad, whose President is the Hon. 
 Samuel F. Vinton. 
 
 Rockport, 7 miles from Cleveland, is the next 
 station. We are now gradually descending the 
 slope from the great plain of Ohio to the Lake. We 
 approach Cleveland through a deep ravine, into the 
 
Cleveland. 
 
 83 
 
 valley of the Cuyahoga, and find our depot nearly 
 down to the level of the Lake — and in the midst of 
 the shipping and bustle of what seems to be a sea- 
 port. 
 
 Accompanying this, is a plate of the Depot Build- 
 ings, Pier, and Harbor of Cleveland. The depot 
 here is a very bustling place — crowded with multi- 
 tudes of cars, and draymen, hackmen, porters, steam- 
 boat runners, &c, innumerable. Let the traveler take 
 care of himself; for, although the railways and their 
 officers and agents, are all systematic and orderly; 
 yet in such a crow T d there is abundant need of the 
 caution which w r e see posted up, "Bewahe of Pick- 
 pockets." 
 
 Cleveland, 253 miles from Cincinnati, and {via 
 the Erie Railroad,) 602 miles from New York, is 
 called the Forest City — and most appropriately, too ; 
 for nearly all the streets are shaded with beautiful 
 trees. Cleveland is the second town in Ohio, and 
 one of the most flourishing in the United States. 
 Including Ohio City, its growth has been thus, viz : 
 
 In 1825, 500 
 
 In 1830, - 1,000 
 
 In 1835, 5,000 
 
 In 1840, 6,071 
 
 In 1845, 12,000 
 
 In 1850, 22,000 
 
 In 1854, (estimated) - - 37,000 
 
84 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 Including Ohio City — separated only by the Cuy- 
 ahoga — and with which it is now united — -it is the 
 twenty-second tow r n in magnitude in the United 
 States. It was founded by General Moses Cleve- 
 land, in 1796, and named after him. For nearly 
 thirty years, till 1825 — when the canal got into full 
 operation — Cleveland was only a small, straggling 
 village — beset with sickness, and consequently a bad 
 name. In the uncultivated state of the country — 
 and while the banks of the Cuyahoga were yet over- 
 hung with decaying vegetation — fevers infected the 
 inhabitants, and the place was shunned by the im- 
 migrant. When the Ohio canal was completed, the 
 business temptations to settle at Cleveland, were too 
 great to be resisted. Vegetation became less lux- 
 uriant, and gradually the town recovered from both 
 the fact and the fame of fever. After 1830, (as 
 the above figures show), the town rapidly grew. Its 
 advantages for business are very great — being the 
 outlet of the Ohio canal, and the best harbor on 
 Lake Erie, within an hundred miles. The canal 
 brought to it the vast export trade of Northern 
 Ohio — especially of the great wheat counties, and 
 for the same reason, it became an entrepot of impor- 
 ted goods. This gave it the first impulse. Then 
 came the era of railways ; and Cleveland was one of 
 the first western towns to foresee and take advantage 
 of the new system of commerce and locomotion. So 
 
CO 
 
 no 
 
 oo 
 
Cleveland. 
 
 85 
 
 it received a second great impulse, and is now grow- 
 ing with great rapidity. In I860, it will, in all 
 probability, have some 60 or 70,000 inhabitants, and 
 will have surpassed all but" some fifteen or sixteen 
 cities of the United States. 
 
 In order to give some idea of its commercial im- 
 portance, I annex some statistics of its exports and 
 imports — which, dry as they are, may nevertheless 
 interest the mercantile traveler. The reports of the 
 Board of Public Works, in Ohio, enable us to see 
 how much of strictly Ohio products arrive at this 
 port; though even this will be incomplete; for of 
 course much is brought by railway. The report 
 gives the arrival of the following articles, at Cleve- 
 land, by canal, for 1853, viz: 
 
 Flour, - - - - 589,466 bbls. 
 Wheat, .... 1,817,677 bushels. 
 
 Pork, 12,198 bbls. 
 
 Whisky, 39,807 " 
 
 Bacon, .... 1,160,624 lbs. 
 Butter, .... 1,844,554 « 
 Cheese, - - - . 1,178,525 u 
 Wool, .... 1 ; 200,903 " 
 Iron of all kinds, - - - 9,700 tons. 
 Coal, ... . 4,969,174 bushels. 
 These, with numerous other minor articles received 
 and handled at Cleveland, of the produce of Ohio, 
 make up ten millions of dollars in value ; while the 
 
86 
 
 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 products of other States, and of foreign growth re- 
 ceived here, amount to many millions more. There 
 is room, therefore, for an extensive commerce — and 
 as we look into the Harbor, we shall see steamers, 
 schooners, propellers, canal boats, in every direction. 
 Scarcely a moment passes, that there is not some 
 sail vessel, or some smoking steamer arriving or 
 departing. In fact, Cleveland has both the elements 
 and the appearance of a commercial seaport; and 
 one, w 7 hich is yet in the very youth of its growth 
 and vigor. All is activity and bustle. All is new- 
 ness, freshness, and the springing elasticity of con- 
 scious strength. 
 
 Let us turn now to its Railroads, which are here- 
 after to constitute one of the main elements of its 
 prosperity. We have now traveled 252 miles on 
 the line from Cincinnati. This line was originally 
 constructed by three companies — the Little Miami, 
 the Xenia and Columbus, and the Cleveland, Cincin- 
 cinnati and Columbus. The interests of the two 
 former have been united; and now the whole line is 
 run by two companies, meeting in Columbus. The 
 railways at present concentrating in Cleveland, are 
 
 The Cleveland and Cincinnati Line, 252 miles. 
 
 The Cleveland and Erie Line, 95 " 
 
 The Cleveland and Toledo Line, (northern division,) 60 " 
 
 " (southern division,) 88 " 
 The Cleveland and Pittsburgh Line, 99 " 
 
Cleveland. 
 
 87 
 
 The Cleveland and Zanesville Line,. 104 miles. 
 
 To Cleveland, proper, 698 " 
 
 The last line is only completed in part; but the 
 whole is in course of construction. By these sev- 
 eral railways, connections are made between Cleve- 
 land, and almost every important point in the Uni- 
 ted States. The following are the principal railway 
 routes, as formed by these connections, viz: 
 
 To New York, via Erie and Dunkirk, 602 miles. 
 
 To Cincinnati, 252 " 
 
 To St. Louis, via Toledo, Chicago, and Alton, 631 " 
 
 To Baltimore, via Pittsburgh, 492 " 
 
 To Philadelphia, via Pittsburgh and Harrisburgh. . .480 " 
 
 To Washington City, via Baltimore, 516 " 
 
 To Boston, via Albany, 684 " 
 
 From each of these cities, again, there are connec- 
 tions with all the principal interior towns; so that, 
 from Cleveland the traveler may find his way, in a 
 very short time, to any point his business or pleasure 
 may lead him. Cincinnati may be reached in nine 
 hours; Philadelphia, New York and Baltimore in 24 
 hours. How wonderfully everything has changed in 
 a very few years! I remember when it took a week 
 to go from Cleveland to Cincinnati, and that, too, a 
 week of hard work! 
 
 The united effects of large commerce — of rapid 
 and cheap locomotion — of a healthy, tonic air — of an 
 industrious people, and a moral and religious tone of 
 
88 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 society, are the building up of Cleveland, not only 
 in property, but in a beautiful and attractive form. 
 If the traveler has time to walk about, and take a 
 view of the upper town, he will find Cleveland one 
 of the most charming places in this country. We 
 have approached it — as railways always do large 
 towns — in a most unattractive way, and looked only 
 at the ravine and low valley of the Cuyahoga, with 
 its untidy and unarchitectural buildings. But not 
 so Cleveland on the hill. The broad and regular 
 streets, shaded with lofty trees — the blocks of fine 
 buildings — the neat private residences — the numer- 
 ous churches, schools and seminaries — the large 
 public square, with its walks and avenues — the glori- 
 ous look-out on the Lake — all conspire to please and 
 charm the stranger. The scenery of Cleveland is 
 lovely; and yet it is without mountain, rock or tor- 
 rent. It is the beautiful, without the sublime. 
 
 Here, in coming from the south, we first touch the 
 shores of Lake Erie — and the first sight of it, if on 
 a bright day, is a glorious sight. It is like, and yet 
 not like, the Ocean. There are two things on the 
 shore of the Ocean which always tell us it is the 
 Ocean, and we do not find them on the Lake. One 
 is the regular surge of the tides. Lake Erie has no 
 tides; and one who has seen the Ocean, misses that 
 regular heave and roar of the waters. Another is, 
 the coast of the Sea has everywhere a certain primi- 
 
Lake Erie. 
 
 89 
 
 tive hardness of feature, which you do not see here. 
 You find yourself on the shore of a great, broad 
 water, which to the eye seems like the Ocean — a 
 vast, sublime expanse of waters; but something 
 reminds you it is not the Ocean, and you look around 
 in a surprised and wondering delight. The surprise 
 would be much greater if we were not well prepared 
 beforehand, to meet such a view. 
 
 As a scene, the Lake has always something to 
 interest you. Whether seen in a dark night, amidst 
 scowling tempests and livid lightnings, or in the 
 peaceful calm of a summer's day, it is always inter- 
 esting. There is scarcely an hour in a clear day, in 
 which several sail vessels may not be seen on its 
 bosom. On the distant horizon, they seem like some 
 light cloud floating on the water, while near by they 
 loom up, under full canvass, glistening in the sun, 
 and majestically approaching. Near by are the fiery 
 steamers, sending forth their dark columns of smoke, 
 and hurrying on with superhuman power. You look 
 over the waters, and strain your eyes in vain to catch 
 the Canada shore, which you know is there, but which 
 seems now buried in the blue sky. You look in 
 vain; but every now and then think you see the 
 blue distant hills, when in fact they are only banks 
 of clouds on the far horizon. 
 
 The Lakes of North America form, perhaps, the 
 most remarkable feature of this continent. The 
 
90 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 Caspian Sea, it is true, is larger than either one of 
 them * hut neither the Caspian, nor any collection of 
 Lakes or Seas, is at all comparable to the chain of 
 the American Lakes, which, extending from the Lake 
 of the Woods to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, make, in 
 fact, a continual succession of inland Seas, extend- 
 ing (Lake Michigan included) nearly 2000 miles in 
 extent. 
 
 Lake Erie — the sixth in the series — is, in round 
 numbers, about 240 miles in length, by 40 in breadth. 
 This is not more than one-fourth the surface of Lakes 
 Huron or Superior; but is in some particulars more 
 interesting than either. Its commerce is now greater 
 than that of either of the Lakes, and, at its eastern 
 extremity, the whole body of its waters is poured 
 over the rapids and falls of Niagara. The cause and 
 phenomena of Niagara Falls are all explained by a 
 simple reference to the comparative levels of Lakes 
 Erie and Ontario. Lake Erie is 565 feet above tide 
 water, and 322 feet above Lake Ontario. The con- 
 sequence of this difference is, that the waters of Erie 
 have to descend 565 feet to reach the Ocean, of which 
 322 feet are between Buffalo and Lake Ontario — 
 only about 40 miles. Part of this is accomplished 
 in the rapids above and below the Falls; but the 
 great descent is at Niagara, where may be seen and 
 studied, in all its glory, that wonderful phenomenon 
 of nature, the Falls of Lake Erie — for such it is — 
 
Lake Erie. 
 
 91 
 
 over the grand rock rampart which separates it from 
 Ontario. 
 
 Has Lake Erie a tide? is a question which seems 
 to have puzzled the natural philosophers, though now 
 satisfactorily settled. A tide like the Ocean it was 
 never supposed to have. But the Lake was observed 
 to be higher in some years than in others. This was 
 thought by some to be a regular rise and fall. Of 
 late years, however, exact observations have been 
 kept, and compared with those in former time ; and 
 the result is, that the rise and fall of the Lake is 
 proved to be very irregular, and to depend merely 
 upon the greater or less fall of water on the great 
 northern plain, whose springs and rains mainly sup- 
 ply the Lakes. The descent of water is various, in 
 different years, and cannot be carried off suddenly, 
 because the obstruction at Niagara is uniform, and 
 the waters of Erie must rise above the ordinary level 
 before the amount carried over the rock ledge of Ni- 
 agara will be sensibly increased. Col. Whittlesey 
 of Cleveland, a distinguished geologist, has given the 
 result of observations on the variations in Lake Erie; 
 and it appears that the whole rise is only from 1 h to 
 3 feet, and it requires several months — sometimes 
 much more time — for the water to ascend even that 
 height. One important fact may be deduced from 
 this: that there is no danger of overflow on the 
 shores of the Lake, except from those sudden dashes 
 
92 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 made by a storm; and that is injurious only at the 
 mouths of creeks and rivers, where the water accu- 
 mulates. These mouths of streams, however, are 
 harbors, generally protected by artificial works, as 
 we see here at Cleveland, where the government has 
 secured the entrance by two long stone piers. 
 
 Farewell to Cleveland! We may see it again, 
 and often; but some of us will see it no more. What 
 a miscellaneous company we are with in these cars ! 
 Some, no doubt, are familiar with this road, and will 
 frequently pass here ; but more are total strangers, 
 and are going to distant regions, whence they will 
 never return. And so we meet once in the brief 
 journey of life, and look upon each other's faces, 
 seen no more, till we shall meet at the general resur- 
 rection! We meet like ships at sea — crossing each 
 other once on the broad ocean of time ; thence borne 
 by the winds to distant parts, or, may be in the deep 
 waters buried; but borne quickly and forever from 
 sight. We meet, like two little waves on yon broad 
 Lake, to mingle once, then beat on the shore, and 
 disappear forever ! 
 
 Some meet, like two glad stars, rejoicing in their 
 way, and parting with smiles. Some meet, like two 
 dark clouds, made sad by the winds of sorrow, and 
 parting in tears. But all part, never again to meet 
 in the same assembly. Let us remember this, and 
 do what we can to make the passing hours agreeable. 
 
Cleveland and Erie Railroad. 93 
 
 We are human — let us be humane. Even little 
 things are of consequence in the aggregate of life ; 
 and the little service, the pleasant smile, the cheerful 
 word, will all do good, and be remembered in the 
 general account of good deeds performed on earth. 
 But here we are. Where are w T e ? 
 
 The Cleveland and Erie Railroad is now before 
 us. It is 95 miles in length, and is run by two 
 companies — one from Cleveland to the Pennsylvania 
 Line, and one from the Line to Erie. It is one of 
 the pleasantest roads (at any rate in the day line), 
 there is in the country. At first we follow the 
 shore of the Lake, under the town, and leaving all 
 its pretty streets, and fine houses, and picturesque 
 scenery above us. But we have got the Lake before 
 us, and that is a grand thing in itself. See yonder 
 white sailed schooner — how gracefully she bends to 
 the gentle wind, and looms above the water! She 
 is like a very bird, and seems the Spirit of the Lake. 
 What dark thing is that, as far off as you can see, 
 almost? Ah! she is a steamer — a packet from 
 Detroit, perhaps. These Lake steamers are noble 
 vessels — and like our cars here, are filled up with 
 human beings, going here and there, up and down 
 upon the earth. What in this world takes so many 
 people all over the country? What takes you and 
 me? I, you see, am just here to watch you all, and 
 put you down in a book. But what are yon doing ? 
 
94 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 Going to buy goods? To see Niagara? To visit 
 your old parents ? To visit Babylon — that is. New 
 York? To get married? To mourn, or rejoice, or 
 what? What does take us all along from State to 
 State, and town to town? I will venture to say 
 you are all on a different errand — and some of you 
 to very strange places. I once was going along this 
 very place, and met a young man who seemed to be 
 rather high, but then he talked straight, and he walked 
 straight ; but he looked wild — and he was talking 
 about the New Jerusalem, and the Millenium, and 
 Heaven. He was going to the Lunatic Asylum. I 
 suppose he thought more of religion than the world 
 in general — and the world being the majority, said 
 he w r as insane. 
 
 Another time, there were two young men with 
 handcuffs on, and they were going to the Peniten- 
 tiary. Again I saw a man who was Mghj and he 
 jumped off the cars — going 30 miles an hour — to 
 get low ; and when we left, he was going down hill. 
 Then I saw a girl who had married at 15, with a 
 baby at her breast — and she was going to have a hard 
 life. Then I saw another, smiling and blushing — 
 and she was going to he married ; and at last, I saw 
 one clothed in black, and tears upon her cheek. 
 She was going to a funeral in the next village. Fi- 
 nally, I saw a slender man, whose cheeks were sunk, 
 whose eye was glassy, whose heart heaved with a 
 
Euclid to Willoughby. 
 
 95 
 
 cough — and he was going to the grave. Then there 
 were crowds of the gay and happy — all mingled in 
 the passing throng; all parts of the great moving 
 caravan of humanity — all hurrying along through 
 their brief but varied hour. 
 
 "No more of this, if thou lov'st me, Hal," says 
 some gay traveler, who would enjoy the passing 
 hour; and he is right. The present is ours, and let 
 us enjoy what we may, and learn what we can. 
 
 After a few miles, Ave leave the Lake shore, and 
 getting on the general plain, pass through the inte- 
 rior — generally two or three miles from the Lake. 
 
 Euclid, 10 miles from Cleveland, is the first sta- 
 tion east. The village lies a mile or two from the 
 station. The ownership of Euclid arose from a 
 strike among the surveyor's men. They demanded 
 higher wages; and General Cleveland, the agent, 
 finally agreed to allow them a pre-emption of a 
 township of land, at an agreed price. This settled 
 the difficulty, and this is the way Euclid was pur- 
 chased and settled. On the next page, is a view of 
 the railway bridge over Euclid creek, with the village 
 in the distance. 
 
 Wickliffe Station, 4 miles from Euclid, 14 from 
 Cleveland. 
 
 Willoughby, 19 miles from Cleveland, is at the 
 crossing of Chagrin River, and in the county of 
 Lake. 
 
96 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 Lake County was formed in 1840, from Geauga 
 and Cuyahoga counties, and then contained 13,717 
 inhabitants. In 1 850, it contained 14,654. Having 
 no considerable town, except Painesville, and the 
 lands being already occupied, its growth is slow. 
 Yet its density of population — 70 to a square mile — 
 is greater than that of the State generally. 
 
 The village of "Willoughby, (originally called Cha- 
 grin) is called from Professor Willoughby, of Herki- 
 mer county, New York. It is on Chagrin River, 2£ 
 miles from its mouth. It is a neat and pleasant vil- 
 lage — with several public buildings, built in the 
 rural style. 
 
 Some 15 miles south of this town, is the flourish- 
 ing and pretty village of Chagrin Falls. In this 
 township, there is a fall of 225 feet, in Chagrin 
 River, which furnishes power for extensive machine- 
 ry. It has a population of 1,250 — with churches, 
 schools, stores and factories. 
 
 Here, again, we are reminded how much of what 
 was has disappeared to make room for what is. 
 On the site of Chagrin was once an Indian town, and 
 here were traces of their mounds and forts. Nor 
 was this all. Here were large numbers of the elk, 
 along this Lake. I do not know whether the buffa- 
 lo were here — probably not, for they are accustomed 
 to the prairies ; but they were abundant in Ohio. So 
 the red Indian, the elk, the buffalo, the bear, the 
 
The Mormons. 
 
 97 
 
 wolf, all of human or animal, which once inhabited 
 this beautiful country, have disappeared. They are 
 no more dwellers here, and their name, and charac- 
 ter, and history, will be mysteries and antiquities to 
 coming generations. 
 
 But a stranger people yet, one of whom you have 
 heard, and will hear much, were here. At Willoughby 
 we are about four miles from Kirtland city, and the 
 Mormon Temple, which was the first establishment 
 of the Mormons in the west. Who are the Mormons ? 
 The Mormons, you are aware, now inhabit Utah Ter- 
 ritory, mostly dwelling near the Great Salt Lake. 
 There they were driven by persecutions in Illinois 
 and Missouri; persecutions, however, which were 
 solely occasioned by their opposition to the accus- 
 tomed laws, usages and religion of the country. 
 They now have a territory to themselves, and have 
 adopted and practiced the Asiatic custom of polyg- 
 amy, contrary alike to the laws of God and to the 
 laws of the United States. At present they domi- 
 nate, unopposed, in the great waste territory of 
 Utah; but how long they will be allowed to do so, is 
 problematical. 
 
 The origin and progress of the Mormons make 
 one of the most curious chapters in the whole history 
 of delusion. The following facts seem to be authen- 
 tically proved: The Mormons derive their name 
 from the Book of Mormon, which they say was trans- 
 8 
 
98 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 lated. from gold plates, found in a hill near Palmyra, 
 New York. But when and how written w r as this 
 book of Mormon? About 1809-10. Solomon Spald- 
 ing, then about 48 years of age, and who was born 
 in Connecticut, removed to what is now Lake county, 
 and amazed himself with writing a romance, called 
 the "Manuscript Found." This undertook to show 
 that the American Indians were descendants of the 
 Jews — the lost tribes — and gave an historical ac- 
 count of them. This " Manuscript Found" was, after 
 Spalding's death, traced to a printing office in Pitts- 
 burgh, but not printed. About 1823-4, Sidney Rig- 
 don, one of the earliest preachers of Mormonism, 
 came to Pittsburgh, ostensibly to study the Bible. 
 Soon after, Rigdon commenced preaching some new 
 doctrines, which were afterwards found to be in the 
 book of Mormon. He was then acquainted with Jo. 
 Smith, who was hunting gold mines in northern 
 Pennsylvania. The Smith family then announced 
 that a book had been discovered, which would give 
 an account of the origin of the Indians. Rigdon 
 had already prepared the minds of many persons for 
 the reception of a new and miraculous book. When 
 printed, the book was immediately carried to Rigdon, 
 who pretended to disbelieve it — was then converted 
 — repaired to Jo. Smith, and was appointed elder, 
 priest, scribe and prophet. But what was this new 
 book? Nothing else than Spalding's "Manuscript 
 
The Mormons. 
 
 99 
 
 Found"! John Spalding, Henry Lake, and six 
 other witnesses, testify that the book of Mormon is 
 the same, or nearly the same, with the " Manuscript 
 Found," as read to them by Spalding. There is no 
 doubt upon that subject. This manuscript, so inno- 
 cently written, was thus fraudulently put forth to 
 ignorant and credulous people, as a new revelation, 
 and has ever since, and quite successfully, been 
 preached as such. Its disciples call themselves the 
 "Latter day Saints," and, with the exception of a few 
 artful leaders, are probably as sincere as the believ- 
 ers in other doctrines. Most of them are a very 
 ignorant people, and many come from Europe — from 
 Manchester and Wales. We can readily see how 
 such might easily be imposed upon; but the most 
 remarkable thing about this imposture is, that some 
 of its disciples are from the most intelligent parts of 
 New England, and have received some education! 
 
 I recently saw in a newspaper the letter of a New 
 England woman, who claims to be the wife of one 
 Elder Pratt in Utah, to her sister in New Hampshire. 
 She declines visiting her relatives, because there 
 is such a difference in their usages and customs ; for 
 example, she is one of the seven wives of this Orson 
 Pratt, who delights in twenty-five children, and is yet 
 in middle life. She thinks it is a capital mode of 
 life — the wives dwelling in sisterly love, and contrib- 
 uting to the comfort and happiness of this excellent 
 
100 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 man, who is improving on American manners and 
 morals, by imitating the old patriarchs of Canaan 
 and Chaldea. 
 
 In this state of things there arises a curious ques- 
 tion. Are we to admit Utah as a State of the Union, 
 in this heathenish condition? Or, when, as must be 
 the case, other kinds of people come to settle in 
 Utah, are they likely to suffer these abominations 
 any more than they did in Missouri or Illinois? 
 Very doubtful. Let time determine. 
 
 Painesville, 29 miles from Cleveland, is one of the 
 principal towns of northern Ohio. It has several 
 churches, stores, schools, printing office, bank, and 
 near 2000 inhabitants. It was named from General 
 Edward Paine, an officer of the Revolution. 
 
 Painesville is the county seat of Lake county, and 
 is one of the most beautiful villages of this part of 
 Ohio. It lies on Grand River, which skirts the vil- 
 lage on the east, in a deep and picturesque valley. 
 The village is scattered, with cultivated gardens, 
 ornamental trees and shrubbery. A public square, 
 adorned with trees, contains the public buildings. 
 
 One of the earty settlers of Painesville was Sam- 
 uel Huntington, second Governor of the State, and 
 a native of Connecticut. He was a man of high 
 character, and one of the early pioneers of the Re- 
 serve. He originally settled at Cleveland, where he 
 met with a singular adventure. This part of the 
 
Pine Region. 
 
 101 
 
 country was then full of wild beasts. I have men- 
 tioned the bear and the elk; but the most common 
 of the really savage was the wolf One night, in 
 returning home, Huntington was attacked by a fero- 
 cious pack, on which he broke his umbrella to pieces, 
 and only escaped by the fleetness of his horse. The 
 only animal now to attack the traveler, is some old 
 ram, who might possibly assault the locomotive, in 
 the simplicity of his ignorance! Sheep have sup- 
 planted wolves, and cattle the bears. 
 
 We are now three miles from the Lake, and will 
 seldom come in sight of it. At the mouth of Grand 
 River is Fairport, a Lake harbor of considerable im- 
 portance. It has a number of warehouses and stores. 
 The harbor is an excellent one, and vessels can make 
 Fairport when they can hardly reach any other port. 
 
 Perry Station is 35 miles from Cleveland. 
 
 The Railway is very seldom in sight of the Lake, 
 and generally passes through woods. As we go 
 through this portion of the road, into Ashtabula 
 county, and Pennsylvania, we shall often meet with 
 pine trees, whose straight trunks and deep green 
 contrast strongly with the common forest trees of 
 Ohio. We are approaching now the borders of a 
 very large district, in which the pine predominates. 
 From the shores of Lake Erie, in eastern Ohio, and 
 in Pennsylvania and New York, far into the interior, 
 on the head waters of the Allegheny, the Genesee, 
 
102 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 the Chemung, and the Susquehanna, the pine tree is 
 everywhere the principal object in the forest. The 
 New York and Erie Railroad passes 200 miles 
 through this pine region, and every year immense 
 quantities of this lumber are shipped from various 
 points on the Allegheny, the Genesee and the Sus- 
 quehanna, This region has been almost the only 
 source of supply for pine lumber for the upper Ohio. 
 In past years, Cincinnati has been supplied with 
 boards and shingles from the Allegheny. They were 
 floated down in rafts in the spring, when the waters 
 were high. In the month of April, the shores of the 
 Ohio at Cincinnati, have sometimes been lined for 
 miles with rafts of pine lumber. How long the Alle- 
 gheny and Genesee country may be able to continue 
 this supply, is doubtful. Already a great deal of 
 lumber is brought to Cincinnati by canal, from Mich- 
 igan; and I have no doubt the time will come when 
 nearly all the pine lumber required for Cincinnati, 
 will be brought from Michigan and Wisconsin by 
 railway. Many persons have doubted whether even 
 coal could be carried by rail; but that doubt is gone 
 — so it soon will be about lumber. Railways are 
 gradually working out a great social revolution; and 
 they will accomplish more than is now dreamed of. 
 
 Madison Station is 40, miles from Cleveland. We 
 are about 4 v miles from the Lake, and 2 miles from 
 Grand River, wdiidi for many miles is nearly paral- 
 
"Little Mountain.'' 103 
 
 lei to the Lake. We are still in Lake county, which 
 is properly named from the Lake, whose shores it 
 hugs for nearly forty miles. 
 
 I omitted to mention, that in this county, and sev- 
 eral miles south of Painesville, is " Little Mountain" 
 — one of those natural anomalies, which sometimes 
 occur, to relieve and refresh what might otherwise 
 be a monotonous surface. It is a small, abrupt emi- 
 nence — about 200 feet in height — from whose sum- 
 mit is a beautiful prospect of the surrounding coun- 
 try, and of Lake Erie in the distance. There is a 
 hotel on the summit — which is a favorite resort in 
 the summer. A cool breeze blows from the Lake, 
 while the earth below is clothed in verdure and beau- 
 ty. Such a place would make a fine resting spot 
 for a wearied traveler, and be a novelty in the jour- 
 ney of life. How curious it is, that we are all rush- 
 ing on to get by everything — however desirable or 
 beautiful — as fast as possible, when, by resting a 
 few hours here and there, we might enjoy all the 
 loveliness of Nature, and refresh our wearied spirits, 
 and visit new scenes. Alas ! it is the toil, and not 
 the beauty of life, we seek. It is well to make a 
 pleasure of business ; but not so well to make a toil 
 of pleasure. Come, let us hasten on. You will not 
 thank me for my sermon, and I will, perhaps, be as 
 little profited myself. We shall rattle on to the end. 
 
 Unionville, 42 miles from Cleveland, is on the 
 
104 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 line of Lake and Ashtabula counties. It is a small 
 village, with two churches, and about 500 inhabi- 
 tants. 
 
 Ashtabula County — "Old Ashtabula" — is the 
 northeastern county of Ohio — and we here cross 
 the line w T hich separates it from Lake. Its name is 
 derived from that of the river Ashtabula — which 
 signifies in the Indian tongue, Fish River. 
 
 This county is the first settled on the Reserve, 
 and the earliest in all Northern Ohio. It was on the 
 4th of July, 1796 — -just twenty years after the 
 declaration of independence — that the first survey- 
 ing party of the Western Reserve., landed at the 
 mouth of Conneaut creek. The party numbered 
 fifty-two persons, of whom two were women — Mrs. 
 Stiles, and Mrs. Greene. In the party, was Moses 
 Cleveland, from whom that city was named. They 
 landed like the Pilgrims at Plymouth, on a new and 
 wild shore, and theirs were the life and toils of the 
 pioneers. 
 
 It was the 4th of July, and as it was the nation's 
 birthday, as well as the birth of this settlement, they 
 felt like celebrating this double event as best they 
 could; and so, patriotically, though very simply, did 
 they manifest their rejoicing. u Mustering their 
 numbers," says Mr. Barr, "they sat them down on 
 the eastward shore of the stream, now known as 
 Conneaut, and dipping from the Lake the liquor in 
 
Geneva Station. 
 
 105 
 
 which they pledged their country — their goblets, 
 some tin caps of no rare workmanship — with the 
 ordnance accompaniment of two or three fowling 
 pieces, discharging the required national salute, the 
 first settlers of the Reserve spent their landing day 
 as became the sons of the Pilgrim Fathers — as the 
 advance pioneers of a population that has since 
 made the then wilderness of Northern Ohio to blos- 
 som as the rose, and prove the homes of a peo- 
 ple — remarkable for integrity, industry, and love of 
 country." 
 
 The next day — 5th of July — they erected a large 
 log building, which served as a storehouse and 
 dwelling. 
 
 Geneva Station, 46 miles from Cleveland. We 
 are now winding through the agricultural townships 
 of Ashtabula. This district is as distinguished, and 
 deservedly so, for those products which are derived 
 from pasturage and cattle, as any other in the Uni- 
 ted States. 
 
 We see but little of it from the cars; but we can 
 readily see from the quality of the land, and the 
 character of the woods, that pasture tillage is the 
 proper culture for this region. The peculiar district 
 for butter, cheese, and wool, is that immediately 
 around us; comprising the counties of Ashtabula, 
 Portage, and Trumbull. The quantities of these 
 articles exported are enormous; exceeding all be- 
 
105 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 lief, if the statistics be not examined. From the 
 port of Cincinnati, 270 miles southwest, 140,000 
 boxes of cheese are exported, most of which comes 
 from these counties. At Cleveland, there arrives 
 annually 2,000,000 pounds of butter; 1,000,000 
 pounds of cheese, and 1,200,000 pounds of wool — a 
 large portion of which comes from this district. 
 Indeed this whole quarter of the State is chiefly 
 devoted to cattle and sheep; and furnishes a large 
 part of the products of those animals exported. 
 
 In this pastoral state, the people, although very 
 intelligent, live simple, quiet, sober lives — not led 
 astray by the pleasures and dissipations of the city. 
 Here, if any where, we may expect to find the 
 country maiden described by Gay: 
 
 "What happiness the rural niaicl attends, 
 In cheerful labor while each day she spends ! 
 She gratefully receives what Heaven has sent, 
 And rich in poverty, enjoys content. 
 (Such happiness, and such unblemish'd fame, 
 Ne'er glad the bosom of the courtly dame): 
 She never feels the spleen's imagin'd pains, 
 Nor melancholy stagnates in her veins ; 
 She never loses life in thoughtless ease, 
 Nor on the velvet couch invites disease ; 
 Her home-spun dress, in simple neatness lies, 
 And for no glaring equipage she sighs ; 
 No midnight masquerade her beauty wears, 
 And health, not paint, the fading bloom repairs. 
 If love's soft passion in her bosom reign, 
 An equal passion warms her happy swain ; 
 
Saybrooke. 
 
 107 
 
 No home-bred jars her quiet state control, 
 
 Nor watchful jealousy torments her soul; 
 
 With secret joy she sees her little race 
 
 Hang on her breast, and her small cottage grace ; 
 
 The fleecy ball their busy fingers cull, 
 
 Or from the spindle draw the lengthening wool : 
 
 Then flow her hours with constant peace of mind, 
 
 Till age the latest thread of life unwind." 
 
 This picture is not a forced or unnatural one. 
 Thousands of our farmers' daughters in these quiet 
 rural districts, are brought up with this simplicity, 
 innocence, and industry. Let us hope that in after 
 times, these scenes and characters may not be de- 
 spised in the pleasures of fashion and magnificence of 
 wealth. 
 
 Saybrooke, 50 miles from Cleveland. We are 
 still passing through the u rural districts." Say- 
 brooke is doubtless named from old Saybrook, at the 
 mouth of Connecticut River; and that was named 
 from Lords Say and Brooke — two of the grantees 
 under one of Charles the IPs charters. Names are 
 curious things. I could write an interesting chap- 
 ter on names. There is a whole code of philosophy 
 and morals, and withal, a most singular history 
 connected with names. Some names are plain 
 enough — such as the Smiths, who were undoubtedly 
 named from their trade. Then comes a whole series 
 of colors — such as Brown, White, Black, Blue, Orange, 
 and all other kinds of color. Then there come com- 
 
108 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 pounds of these, which are quite curious. There is 
 Mr. Red-ding, Mr. Red-head, Mr. Red-dish, Mr. Red- 
 heifer, Mr. Red-dington, &c. Then there conies the 
 whole list of sons — which are probably most numer- 
 ous. Such as Mr. John-son, Mr. Robert-son, Mr. 
 William-son, Mr. Smith-son, Mr. Brown-son, &c. 
 But there are others, which defy all derivation, and 
 evidently were given in fancy's freak. There is Mr. 
 Pancake, Mr. Pepper, Mr. Wolfe, &c. These gentle- 
 men have reason to speak ill of ancient dignities, 
 and ancestral honors; for they evidently belong to 
 the class who had no grandfathers. They are very 
 worthy people, as I know ; but they do not belong 
 to the descendants of the feudal Barons. Well, it is 
 no matter. Names are not much, any how. Of that 
 truth, we have a signal example in the names of our 
 colored brethren — who flourish as Caesar, Cato, and 
 Pompey. What is fame? a breath in other's mouths. 
 Where is Cato? Where is Pompey? Why, just no 
 where. These colored persons are greater than they; 
 for they have something yet vital about them. 
 
 But we must hurry on. We have been through 
 London to-day, and to-morrow we must go through 
 Rome, Palmyra, Venice, and Utica. What a revival 
 of the ancients on these green fields of the moderns ! 
 But what of it? These towns will grow just as fast 
 and be just as bright and important to this Republic, 
 as if old Palmyra had never fallen into ruins ; nor 
 
Ashtabula. 
 
 109 
 
 seven-hilled Rome ever declined. It is the youth of 
 the Republic; and Nature, this green Nature, so 
 rich and beautiful, is ever fair. Thus, when Byron 
 had wandered through the ruins of Greece, he ex- 
 claimed : 
 
 Still in thy sun, Mendelis' marbles glare ; 
 
 Art, glory, freedom fail, but Nature still is fair ! 
 
 But what is a name ? Let us hurry on, and catch 
 up with Time, which has been flying ahead, while 
 we were talking. 
 
 Ashtabula, 55 miles from Cleveland. Well, here 
 we are, on Ashtabula creek. Ashtabula is a neat 
 village, with pleasant aspect. It has several church- 
 es, and the usual proportion of stores, and a popula- 
 tion of about 1,000. 
 
 We are here 2! miles from Ashtabula Harbor, the 
 mouth of Ashtabula Creek. The Lake steamers gen- 
 erally stop here, and a considerable shipping busi- 
 ness is carried on. Several vessels are owned here, 
 and it is one of the principal Lake ports within the 
 district of Cuyahoga. 
 
 Ashtabula received a severe shock in the loss of 
 the Washington steamer, which w r as owned here. 
 She was burned off Silver Creek in June, 1838, and 
 about 40 lives lost. This misfortune has a melan- 
 choly interest, from the circumstances attending it. 
 Fire is always a terrible element ; but a fire in a ves- 
 sel at sea — how terrible ! 
 
110 
 
 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 The Washington had left Cleveland in the morn- 
 ing, and a little after midnight, when off Silver 
 Creek, was discovered to be on fire. From a deep 
 sleep the passengers were alarmed by the awful cry 
 of — fire ! Then ensued a scene of indescribable con- 
 fusion and distress ; but, while there was a chance of 
 putting out the flames, hope still whispered in their 
 ears. But alas ! for its delusion. The fire triumphed ; 
 the flames rose high, above all effort to suppress 
 them, and then dark despair seized upon their be- 
 wildered minds, and some plunged into the waves, 
 and some seized boards and jumped over, and some 
 remained to be burnt up in the wreck. Then rose 
 the w T ail of mothers and children, of sisters, husbands, 
 fathers, and was borne over the dark waters. 
 
 Ah ! few shall part where many meet ; 
 The wave shall be their winding sheet: 
 And ev'ry billow on the shore 
 Shall their sad loss in grief deplore. 
 
 The small boat saved 25 persons. Other small 
 boats came off, and a few more w r ere saved. But, 
 after making all allowance, it is known that at least 
 40 perished. 
 
 The accidents to steamboats on Lake Erie have 
 been quite severe; but still, so beautiful is the 
 scenery of the Lake, in a clear day, and so cozy 
 and pleasant is that mode of conveyance, that many 
 persons still tempt the hazards of fire and storm. 
 
C ONNEAUT. 
 
 Ill 
 
 But here we are, on the Lake Shore Railroad, and 
 whatever else happens to us, Ave shall not he drowned 
 in the Lake. On the whole, railways are the safest 
 of all modes of conveyance yet discovered, unless we 
 except canal boats — which may the angels save us 
 from ! Here we go again ; hurry — scurry— fly ! 
 
 Kings ville — 61 miles from Cleveland. The vil- 
 lage is a little to the south of the Railroad. It is a 
 pleasant town, with several churches, and 500 inhab- 
 itants. It is one of a large class of villages which 
 here, as in New England, may be found scattered 
 over the face of a rural country. 
 
 C onneaut, 68 miles from Cleveland, is rather an 
 important place, being in the extreme north-east of 
 Ohio, and a considerable Lake port. It is 300 miles 
 from Cincinnati, on a straight line, and 320 miles by 
 Railway, being on one extreme of a diagonal line 
 across the State. It is situated on Conneaut Creek, a 
 stream having a good deal of water power, and on 
 which there are many mills and factories. 
 
 Conneaut Borough has several churches, and about 
 1000 inhabitants. The port of Conneaut has a light- 
 house and several warehouses. It is the entrepot for 
 the landing of supplies and the shipping of produce 
 for a large and fertile agricultural region, not only 
 of the adjacent country in Ohio, but of an important 
 section of Pennsylvania. 
 
112 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 On the opposite side is a view of the bridge oyer 
 Conneaut Creek. 
 
 Conneaut has been called the "Plymouth of Ohio;" 
 for here, as we have before stated, was the first land- 
 ing, as we may say, of the pilgrims to the "Western 
 Reserve," in 1796. The spot where Conneaut port 
 is, w r as then a mere sand beach, overgrown with 
 timber. 
 
 The early settlers say the harbors on the Lakes 
 were in those days frequently choked up with sand. 
 The mouths of the streams were continually shifting, 
 until the artificial harbors were built. These im- 
 provements have, in a great measure, remedied those 
 evils, and made the mouths of the streams far more 
 healthy. 
 
 The first permanent settlement of Conneaut was 
 made in 1799. The spot was then inhabited by the 
 Massauga tribe of Indians, who were afterwards 
 obliged to leave, in consequence of the murder of a 
 white man. This spot was likewise the scene of an 
 act of maiden generosity not inferior to that of Poca- 
 hontas. Two young men taken in St. Clair's defeat, 
 were brought prisoners to this village. They were 
 obliged to run the gauntlet, and having been kicked 
 and cuffed, it was solemnly decided that one should 
 be saved, but the other should be burned. He 
 was tied to a tree, and hickory bark tied into fag- 
 gots and piled around him. Just then a young 
 
CONNEAUT. 
 
 113 
 
 squaw, touched with sympathy, sprang forward, and 
 interceded for him. She urgently expostulated, and 
 by the aid of some furs, succeeded in delivering him. 
 We have not her name, but the fame of this lovely 
 maiden should mingle in history with that of the 
 virtuous in every age. The story ends with this 
 heroic deed 5 and whether there was any episode of 
 romance connected with it, w T e know not. But we 
 are quite sure our young readers will imagine there 
 was. One thing we are certain of, that the young 
 man must have been without either love or gratitude, 
 if he did not offer his hand and heart, and lay what- 
 ever of fortune he might hope for, at the maiden's feet. 
 What if her skin was tanned, and her mind unlearned ! 
 her soul was as pure, her life as innocent, as though she 
 had graced the dwellings of the high and honorable. 
 
 It w r as at Conneaut occurred an adventure on the 
 water which has perhaps never been surpassed in 
 perils anywhere. It is told in Howe's Ohio. Mr. 
 Solomon Sweetland had been accustomed, by the 
 aid of a neighbor — Mr. Connies — and a few hounds, 
 to drive deer into the Lake, where, pursuing them 
 with a canoe, he easily shot them. In September, 
 1817, on a lovely autumn morning, Sweetland rose 
 at daw 7 n, and, without putting on coat or waistcoat, 
 left his cabin, and impatiently waited for the dogs. 
 Soon his ears heard their deep baying; and, arrived 
 at the beach, he perceived a deer had already taken 
 9 
 
114 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 to the water, and was some distance from the shore. 
 He threw his hat on the beach, took to his canoe, and 
 hurried after in animated pursuit. The wind, which 
 w r as from the south, had increased in the night, and 
 now blew quite strong; but Sweetland forgot the 
 danger in the excitement of the hunt. The deer 
 hoisted his tail in defiance, and stoutly breasting the 
 waves, showed that in a race with a canoe, the event 
 was not certain. When Sweetland overtook him, he 
 first became aware of his situation; for the deer 
 turning, shot past him towards the shore ; and he 
 tacking, discovered that he could make no progress 
 towards the shore, but was continually drifted farther 
 to sea! * Now came a time of fearful trial to himself 
 and friends. He had been seen by Mr. Connies and 
 his family, from the shore, as he gradually disap- 
 peared from sight. In vain did three of his neigh- 
 bors generously put off in a light boat to his rescue. 
 In vain did they search the raging waters. The deer 
 was seen returning to the shore, but the man was 
 lost from sight. Where was Sweetland? The canoe 
 was a large one, dug out from a fishing boat, and was 
 considered a superior one of its kind. Sweetland 
 continued to head towards the land, in the faint hope 
 that the wind might abate, or aid come to his relief. 
 One or two schooners came in sight, but he signaled 
 them in vain. The shore continued in sight, and on 
 its distant outline, he could trace the spot where 
 
CONNEAUT. 
 
 115 
 
 stood his cabin and his loved ones ; but in vain he 
 struggled to near them. At last these familiar ob- 
 jects receded from his sight, and sunk, and the shores 
 sunk below the troubled waters. He was alone on 
 the stormy deep ! His frail canoe alone upheld him, 
 and the spirit of the tempest alone uttered its voice 
 in his ear! 
 
 One only chance remained — and as he was a good 
 sailor, with a cool head and stout heart, he seized 
 upon that. This was to put the boat before the 
 wind, and strike for the Canada shore, fifty miles off! 
 It was now blowing a gale, and he was borne towards 
 the shore with fearful power. He was obliged to 
 stand much of the time to steady and guide the 
 boat; and he was obliged sometimes to bale with a 
 pair of shoes ! Then came the night, and its shad- 
 ows gathered round him. The sky was overcast, 
 and only here and there a twinkling star sent its 
 ray through the darkness. Destitute of food and 
 clothing, he was thus rocked upon the billows, in 
 that long and dreary night. At morning he saw the 
 shore, and found he had made Long Point, Canada.. 
 Here he had an adverse wind and cross sea % but the 
 merciful Providence which had guided him so far, 
 enabled him to land. But his trials were not ended. 
 He was forty miles from any settlement — and the 
 way lay through marshes and thickets. Still, with a 
 stout heart — though weary and faint — he managed 
 
116 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 to crawl on, till he arrived at the habitations of men. 
 On his way, he found a quantity of goods — the re- 
 mains of some wreck — which, after he got refreshed 
 and strengthened, he brought off, and thus made an 
 accession to his little fortune. He proceeded to 
 Buffalo, and thence by vessel to Conneaut — where 
 he found his funeral sermon had been preached, and 
 he had the rare privilege of seeing his oivn widow in 
 mourning for him! 
 
 Farewell to Ohio ! Green buckeye land, we must 
 leave thee for a time. Rich are thy fields, and 
 pleasant thy homes — long shall we remember thee 
 when far away! 
 
 Pennsylvania, Hail! The Pennsylvania line is 
 70 miles from Cleveland, and here we enter the Key- 
 stone State. Pennsylvania is one of the oldest and 
 most interesting of the States. You know that it 
 was settled first by William Penn and his Friends, 
 (as the Quakers always call themselves), at Phila- 
 delphia; but then that was long before the settlement 
 of this northwest corner — and it was also a very dif- 
 ferent kind of immigration. In this part of the 
 State, there was no such quiet and peaceful progress 
 as was made at Philadelphia. On the contrary, it 
 was a scene of trouble and conflict — as Indians, 
 French, English, and Irish, alternately held sway. 
 I say Irish, because after the English prevailed over 
 the French, the principal immigrants to Pittsburgh, 
 
Pennsylvania. 
 
 117 
 
 and all the surrounding counties, were the Scotch- 
 Irish, or those from the north of Ireland, which, after 
 Cromwell's Conquest, was settled by the Scotch. 
 
 The northwestern part of Pennsylvania was first 
 stationed — not settled — by the French, who built 
 Fort Du Quesne, at Pittsburgh, a fort at Presque 
 Isle, (now Erie) and others on French creek. At 
 that time, however, the Indians were still the pro- 
 prietors of all the lands west of the Alleghanies, and 
 the French only held a line of posts on the Ohio, the 
 Lakes and their tributaries. From these posts they 
 were ultimately driven by the English; but it is 
 difficult to tell exactly when the first permanent 
 settlers came to this district. 
 
 We are now entering Erie county, through which 
 runs French creek, and on which was the scene of 
 the earliest adventures of George Washington. In 
 1753, Governor Dinwiddie of Virginia, having dis- 
 covered that the French were establishing posts on 
 the Ohio, and being unable to obtain accurate infor- 
 mation by his messengers, selected a young surveyor, 
 who at the age of nineteen had received the rank of 
 Major, and who was inured to hardships and wood- 
 land ways — while his courage, judgment, and firm 
 will, all fitted him for such a mission. This young 
 man was George Washington, then but twenty-one 
 years and eight months old. He left Williamsburg 
 with a Mr. Gist for his guide, and arrived at Wills 
 
118 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 creek, where Cumberland now is, on the 15th of 
 November, and on the 22d, reached the Mononga- 
 hela. Thence he went to Logtown, and held long 
 conferences with the chiefs of the Six Nations, living 
 in the neighborhood. Finding the French and Indi- 
 ans above would not come down to meet him, he 
 proceeded to their forts. Traveling in cold and rain, 
 he reached Venango, at the mouth of French creek, 
 on the 4th of November. This was an old Indian 
 town, and here he found the French — who with rum 
 and flattery had very nearly seduced the friendly 
 Indians who went with him from Logtown. Patience 
 and good faith, however, conquered, and after another 
 rough time, through snow, rain, and cold, he reached 
 the fort on French creek. This was only fifteen 
 miles from the present Erie. Here he w r as politely 
 told by the French commander, that the demand of 
 Governor Dinwiddie to evacuate the forts, could not 
 be complied with. The shrewdness and capacity of 
 Washington, as a military man, was even then quite 
 conspicuous. He took accurate note of the fort, arma- 
 ment, men, provisions, &c, and communicated them 
 to his government. In the same expedition, he also 
 observed the admirable situation of the junction of 
 the Allegheny and the Monongahela — and at his 
 recommendation a fort was built there. 
 
 On his return, young Washington suffered severely, 
 and very nearly lost his life. He left his friendly 
 
Erie County. 
 
 119 
 
 Indians, and with Gist set out on foot for Wills 
 creek. Accepting the guidance of an Indian, he 
 was betrayed and shot at. In the midst of winter, 
 they came to the Allegheny, expecting to cross on 
 the ice, but w r ere disappointed, and compelled to 
 make a raft with a single hatchet. Nearly frozen, 
 they were thrown upon a desert island. The ice 
 fortunately made that night, hard enough to bear 
 them, and they escaped to the main land. Thus, 
 through hardships and dangers, Washington returned 
 safe to Williamsburg. It was in such a school of 
 bodily, as well as moral and intellectual training, 
 that Providence was gradually fitting Washington 
 to become the Man of the Revolution. 
 
 Erie County, in which we are, comprehends the 
 whole of that portion of Pennsylvania, bordering on 
 the Lake. The Lake shore of Pennsylvania is about 
 50 miles — thus giving her, like New York, a terri- 
 tory extending from the Ocean to the Lakes. This 
 is peculiar to these two States, and a great advan- 
 tage. Erie county contains nearly 40,000 inhabit- 
 ants — raises a large quantity of grain and potatoes ; 
 but deals chiefly in cattle and sheep — pasturage 
 being everywhere the principal element of Lake- 
 shore farming. 
 
 Springfield Station is 76 miles from Cleveland. 
 The town is to the south of the railroad. It is a 
 small village, with several stores and mills. 
 
120 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 The scenery of the Lake shore varies but little. 
 We pass no high hills, and the varieties of surface 
 are produced almost altogether by the rivers, creeks, 
 and ravines, which terminate in the Lake. The 
 shores of Lake Erie, have, as a residence, however, 
 some great advantages. The land is generally level; 
 the air cool and bracing; the temperature not severe ; 
 the scenery, like that of the Ocean, grand and vari- 
 ous — at one time like a transparent mirror, reflect- 
 ing the light sails of the water craft, and shining in 
 the dazzling rays of the sun; at another clothed in 
 the gloomy grandeur of the storm; at another mixed 
 with all the elements of sun and shade, of clouds 
 and sky, of curling waves and of moving vessels. 
 
 It w r as a remark of Volney, the traveler, "that the 
 southern shore of Lake Erie would one day become 
 the pleasantest part of the United States, and lined 
 with the homes of a numerous people." The predic- 
 tion is, in some degree, accomplished — for w r e have 
 already such cities and towns, as Buffalo, Cleveland, 
 Erie, Sandusky, Toledo, and other flourishing places ; 
 and the intermediate shore is rapidly filling up with 
 intelligent and prosperous citizens. 
 
 Girard Station, 80 miles from Cleveland. This 
 is a small post town of Erie county, containing about 
 400 inhabitants. 
 
 Fair view is a village at the mouth of Walnut 
 creek. 
 
Pennsylvania. 
 
 121 
 
 What is History ? We are here in the very midst 
 of the civilization of the Earth. We are near the 
 city of Erie. In twenty hours we shall he in the 
 great city of New York, which, with its surround- 
 ings, has a million of people. We are moving on 
 the newest and greatest element of civilization — 
 the Railway. We are in sight of the most splendid 
 steamers. We are surrounded by ladies and gentle- 
 men. With all this, we cannot trace the history of 
 this spot beyond the life of a single man! We are 
 a nation grown up in a day — and beyond a century 
 or two, all on this continent lies in clouds and shad- 
 ows. I thought of this in endeavoring to get some 
 idea of the first settlement of this district. But I 
 cannot. Robert Proud, who wrote what he called 
 the history of Pennsylvania, about the year 1776, 
 says, "there were then eleven counties in Pennsylva- 
 nia, (there are now sixty-three) of which, Bedford 
 and Westmoreland were the only ones w r est of the 
 Alleghenies. Of these, he says they are "frontier 
 counties, in the back parts of the province, next the 
 Indians : they Avere laid out but very lately, and are 
 as yet, but thinly inhabited and little improved — 
 being the most remote from the capital of the prov- 
 ince." Just think — the great States in the valley 
 of the Ohio, were then, as the sheriff would say, 
 non est inventus — and Western Pennsylvania, now 
 flourishing with half a million of inhabitants, was a 
 
122 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 mere frontier, where the daring emigrant was just 
 "building his cabin among the Indians! But what 
 Indians were here ? If we know little of the wiiite 
 settlements, we know less of the Indians. 
 
 The Indian settlers here were very much in the 
 same pursuit and character as the whites. It does 
 not seem very clear, that there were any permanent 
 residents in this region. The Indians who dwelt 
 here, were the outguards or hunters of the great Iro- 
 quois confederacy. On the Susquehannah, Beaver 
 creek, and possibly along the whole Lake shore, the 
 Indian inhabitants were the Delatvares — a leading 
 tribe of the Iroquois. These did not belong strictly 
 to the Six Nations; but were united with other 
 tribes in another confederacy. The Delawares were 
 among the most renowned, as well as noble families 
 of aboriginals. Thev seldom exhibited the traits of 
 
 CD */ 
 
 meanness and ferocity, so common with most Indian 
 tribes ; but were generally fair and honorable. The 
 Delawares, like most of the Eastern tribes, have 
 nearly died out. The remnants of the tribe were re- 
 moved beyond the Mississippi, where they still 
 remain. 
 
 Erie, or Presque Isle — 95 miles from Cleveland, 
 348 miles from Cincinnati, and 507 miles from New 
 York, via the N. Y. and Erie Railroad. 
 
 We are now at a very remarkable place, naturally, 
 historically and socially. We are at one of the great 
 
Erie. 
 
 123 
 
 points on the great Lake frontier. I must tell you 
 a little more of it than of most towns. The name 
 was originally Presque Isle — so called by the French 
 — which signifies almost an island; for such is the 
 fact On the west of the bay, a long peninsula runs 
 nearly parallel with the eastern or southern shore, so 
 as almost to inclose w T hat is now the bay and harbor 
 of Erie. This peninsula has latterly been converted 
 into a real island, by the gradual wearing away of 
 the isthmus, which connected it with the main land, 
 so that the harbor of Erie has now two entrances. 
 It will readily be seen that this geographical confor- 
 mation makes one of the very best harbors that can 
 be conceived; but for a long time a great difficulty 
 was experienced, as in nearly all the Lake ports, by 
 the formation of a sand-bar across the entrance. The 
 United States government has expended here a great 
 deal of money, in making piers and improvements for 
 the harbor. The water on the bar is now from 8 to 
 10 feet — quite sufficient for such craft as navigate 
 the Lake. 
 
 Erie lies beautifully, on a bluff on the south side 
 of the bay and peninsula. Erie is the modern name. 
 As I said before, it was called by the French, who 
 were the earliest settlers, Presque Isle. It appears 
 to have happened this way: In 1748, several Vir- 
 ginians, among whom were Thomas Lee and two 
 brothers of George Washington, associated them- 
 
124 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 selves together, as the " Ohio Company/' for the set- 
 tlement of western lands. They obtained an order 
 from the British government on the government of 
 Virginia, for half a million of acres, two hundred 
 thousand of which were to be located at once; which 
 were to be held ten years without rent, on condition 
 that within seven years one hundred families were 
 put upon it, and a fort built for their protection. 
 This the company proposed to do at once. Other 
 companies were formed, and other grants made. But 
 before this, the French had made settlements on the 
 lower Ohio, and on a line between them and Canada. 
 This attempt to settle the upper Ohio, therefore, at 
 once excited their jealousy. They saw that if the 
 English got a foothold here, they would descend and 
 fall on the French posts below. 
 
 In February, 1751, Christopher Gist, the same per- 
 son who went out afterwards with Washington, went 
 out as the agent of the ? Ohio Company," to examine 
 the western lands, and was gone seven months, de- 
 scending as low as the falls of Ohio. In November 
 of the same year, Gist commenced a thorough survey 
 of the lands east of the Kenhawa, which were to be 
 occupied by the Kenhawa Company. In the mean- 
 while the French were not idle. They took imme- 
 diate steps to fortify posts on the upper Ohio. They 
 began by establishing a post at this place — Presque 
 Isle, or Erie, on the Lake. From Erie they opened 
 
Erie. 
 
 125 
 
 a wagon road to a little lake at the head of French 
 Creek — about fifteen miles — and there they built 
 another fort. These were the first settlements of Erie 
 county, and were made more than a hundred years 
 ago. 
 
 Thus, too, began what is called the "Old French 
 War;" and in that began the military education of 
 George Washington, the leader and hero of our revo- 
 lution. The French continued to build their forts 
 and posts. The English did the same. The French 
 tampered with the Indians. The English counter- 
 acted them ; and so mutual aggressions and encroach- 
 ments were made, till blood was shed and the war 
 commenced. "It was now," says Mr. Perkins in his 
 Annals, "April, 1754. The fort at Venango was 
 finished, and all along the line of French creek, 
 troops were gathering, and the wilderness echoed the 
 strange sounds of a European camp — the watchword, 
 the command, the clang of muskets, the uproar of 
 soldiers, the cry of the sutler; and with these were 
 mingled the shrieks of drunken Indians, won over 
 from their old friendship by rum and soft words. 
 Scouts were abroad, and little groups formed about 
 the tents or huts of the officers, to learn the move- 
 ments of the British. Canoes were gathering, and 
 cannon were painfully hauled here and there. All 
 was movement and activity among the old forests 
 
123 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 and on the hill sides, covered already with young 
 wild flowers, from Lake Erie to the Allegheny." 
 
 So began, in these wild woods, on the shores of 
 Lake Erie, and on the beautiful Ohio, the first clash 
 — the first alarm — the first battle cry of that great 
 war, which engaged all Europe; which was scarcely 
 interrupted by the peace of 1763, when the mur- 
 murs of the Revolution began, and which continued 
 to roll on from revolution to revolution, overturning 
 and overturning, till the battle of Waterloo — sixty 
 years of terrible conflict, resulting in the independ- 
 ence and liberty of America, and the commencement 
 of a great social and political change in all the na- 
 tions of Europe. 
 
 So began the settlement of Erie; but Erie was for 
 half a century, though important as a position, but a 
 small village. In 1763 it was attacked and taken 
 by a confederacy of hostile Indians. In 1794, it was 
 threatened by the celebrated Brant, in consequence 
 of a dispute between the United States and the Six 
 Nations, as to the erection of a fort there. 
 
 In writing to the British authorities, Brant says, 
 "In regard to the Presque Isle business, should we 
 not get an answer at the time limited, it is our busi- 
 ness to push these fellows hard, and therefore it is 
 my intention to form my camp at Point Appineau; 
 and I would esteem it a favor of his excellency the 
 Lieutenant Governor, to lend me four or five batteaux. 
 
Anthony Wayne. 
 
 127 
 
 Should it so turn out, and should these fellows not 
 go off, and O'Bail continue of the same opinion, an 
 expedition against these Yankees must of conse- 
 quence take place." 
 
 This was written in July; but the decisive victory 
 of Wayne, in August, over the Indians of the north- 
 west, ended, if there ever existed, any desire of the 
 Six Nations to war about Presque Isle. 
 
 Connected with these Indian wars, was another 
 event of great interest: the death of Anthony Wayne 
 — the Mad Anthony of the Revolution. Wayne is 
 one of the most remarkable names in American his- 
 - tory; and it was here the great soldier died. Pie 
 was on his return from Detroit, in 1796, where the 
 treaty of Greenville had been made, and the British 
 posts evacuated, when he w r as taken suddenly sick, 
 and died at Erie. There was a good deal of mystery, 
 and some talk about the circumstance of his death. 
 He had a controversy with General Wilkinson, who 
 was then, and indeed always, of rather doubtful stand- 
 ing in the public mind. It was said that Wayne had 
 important papers affecting Wilkinson, in his trunk. 
 However that was, Wayne suddenly died at Erie, 
 and his bones were finally carried to Chester county, 
 Pennsjdvania, whence he came. 
 
 Anthony Wayne was a remarkable man. He was 
 born in Chester county, Pennsylvania, in 1745. His 
 father was a farmer, of excellent character, who ren- 
 
128 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 dered considerable service to the government. He 
 took great pains to educate his son, especially in the 
 sciences. Anthony entered the army, as Colonel, in 
 1775, accompanied one of the expeditions to Canada, 
 and was shot in the leg at the action of the Three 
 Rivers. In 1776, he was made a Brigadier General. 
 He fought at Brandywine, at Germantown, at Mon- 
 mouth, and finally stormed Stony Point, on the Hud- 
 son, in 1779. It was for this desperate action he 
 received the soubriquet of "Mad Anthony." He was 
 in the campaign against Cornwallis, and was finally 
 appointed to the command of the southern army. 
 In fine, there was not an important battle, or hazar- 
 dous enterprise, from the beginning to the end of the 
 Revolution, in which he was not more or less distin- 
 guished. His career was a brilliant and successful 
 one. 
 
 When the Revolution was closed, the constitution 
 framed, and the Northwestern Territory constitu- 
 ted, Wayne was called upon a new theatre of action. 
 Hamar and St. Clair had both been defeated by the 
 Indians; the latter most disastrously. In this con- 
 dition of affairs, our whole northwestern frontier was 
 exposed, the people disheartened, and the Indians 
 triumphant. It was at this time, that Washington, 
 who well knew the character of Wayne, appointed 
 him to the command of the Northwestern army. 
 In the summer of 1792, he was busily engaged in 
 
Anthony Wayne. 129 
 
 collecting his troops, and in training and disciplining 
 them for the particular service they were meant for. 
 In December, 1792, the army which was called 
 Legion of the United States, assembled at Legion- 
 ville, twenty-two miles below Pittsburgh. There it 
 passed the winter, till April, 1793 — when, being 
 taken down the river, it encamped on the present 
 town plat of Cincinnati, and near Fort Washington. 
 There — in consequence of the negotiations carried on 
 by Commissioners — it remained till October, being 
 engaged in drilling and preparations. On the 7th 
 October, 1793, Wayne and his "Legion" left Cincin- 
 nati ; but encamped at what is now Greenville, Darke 
 county. In the meanwhile, the field of St. Clair's 
 defeat had been recovered, and "Fort Recovery" 
 built there. In June, 1794, Fort Recovery was at- 
 tacked by Little Turtle, with 1000 warriors, but 
 after a severe contest, he was repelled. Wayne de- 
 clared that there were many white men with them, 
 and the Indians were really instigated by the British. 
 On the 8tli of August, "Fort Defiance" was built 
 at the junction of the Auglaize and the Maumee. 
 At length, on the 20th of August, Wayne encoun- 
 tered the united forces of the Indians on the Mau- 
 mee, and completely defeated and overwhelmed 
 them in a decisive battle. This battle was in fact, 
 the close of the Revolution. Up to this time, the 
 British had never delivered up the western posts, 
 10 
 
130 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 in conformity with the Treaty of 1783. On the 
 contrary, it was clearly proved that the British au- 
 thorities in Canada, had instigated and excited the 
 Indians in their hostilities. The battle of the Mau- 
 mee, however, ended all this, and soon after the 
 posts in the northwest were delivered. The spirit of 
 Wayne is very well illustrated by a terse and piquant 
 correspondence between Major Campbell — who com- 
 manded the British post on the Miami — and Wayne, 
 after the battle of Maumee. Campbell demanded to 
 know why the American Army had taken a post 
 u almost within reach of the guns of a fort occupied 
 by his Majesty's troops to which Wayne replied 
 that u were you entitled to answer, the most full and 
 satisfactory one was announced to you from the 
 muzzles of my small arms yesterday morning, in the 
 action against the horde of savages in the vicinity of 
 your post, which terminated gloriously to the Ameri- 
 can arms ; but had it continued until the Indians, 
 &c, were driven under the influence of the post and 
 guns you mention, they would not have much impe- 
 ded the progress of the victorious army under my 
 command, as no such post was established at the 
 commencement of the present war between the Indi- 
 ans and the United States." 
 
 Wayne, after the battle, proceeded to Detroit, 
 there to finish the business of the war, and the posts. 
 Having remained in the northwest more than a year 
 
Anthony Wayne. 
 
 131 
 
 longer, at the close of 179 6, he took passage in a 
 sail vessel for Erie, on his way to Washington, to 
 answer some secret charges preferred against him by 
 Wilkinson, but which were known to few, and were 
 never publicly made. When near Presque Isle, 
 (Erie), he was taken (it was said) with gout in the 
 stomach, suddenly died, and was buried on the 
 shores of the Lake. Some years after, his body was 
 taken up and removed to his native place — Chester, 
 Pennsylvania. It was quite singular that when 
 taken up, his body was still fresh and quite pre- 
 served. This was probably caused by some peculiar 
 property of the earth or fluid, in which he was buried. 
 
 Wayne was about 57 years of age at his death, 
 and, on the whole, was probably the most successful 
 General of the Revolution — and certainly one of the 
 most brilliant, brave, and skillful. The soubriquet 
 of "Mad Anthony" lives embalmed in memory, and 
 fresh with glory. 
 
 Erie City— Presque Isle — is now a large, beauti- 
 ful and flourishing place. I have visited it three 
 times in the last thirty years, and each time it had 
 greatly improved. It lies on the south shore of the 
 Lake, on a bluff situated on and overlooking Presque 
 Isle Bay. The plan of the borough extends three 
 miles along the Lake, by an almost equal depth. The 
 principal street lies from the harbor, on the road to 
 Waterford. It has eight or ten churches, schools, 
 
132 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 seminaries, banks, mills, factories, stores, and all the 
 machinery and adjuncts of a busy, thriving place. 
 It employs a large capital, and has some 8000 inhab- 
 itants. 
 
 During the war of 1812-15, this was a rendez- 
 vous and naval station for the United States marine 
 on Lake Erie. Here Perry's fleet was built in about 
 seventy days from the time the timber was standing 
 in the forest ! To this place he returned, after a glo- 
 rious victory, with his prizes, and his vessels were 
 afterwards sunk in the harbor near the navy yard. 
 The Lawrence, his flag ship, was recently in part out 
 of water, and visitors would frequently cut relics 
 from its hulk. 
 
 To the right of the town, on a high bank overlook- 
 ing the bay, are the remains of the old French fort 
 — Presque Isle — now overgrown with weeds. Half 
 a mile beyond it, is the blockhouse, erected for the 
 protection of the navy yard during the late war. 
 Wayne w^as, at his own request, buried under the 
 flag staff of the fort; but, as I before said, he was 
 removed by his relatives. Forty years have elapsed 
 since the victory of Perry, and Lake Erie has been 
 no more disturbed by the thunders of battle. Perry, 
 the victor of Erie, has long gone to his final home, 
 where the grass grows over his head. 
 
 How sleep the brave who sink to rest 
 By all their country's wishes blest ! 
 
Conclusion. 
 
 133 
 
 The Lake Shore Road, upon which we have trav- 
 eled, passes in the rear of Erie; so that in fact we 
 get but a distant view of the town, which, as we go 
 east, may be seen on the rising bluff to the left. A 
 very good meal may usually be got at Erie; and if 
 the traveler pleases, he can lie over a few hours, to 
 walk round the town, and then resume his journey. 
 
 The Sunbury and Erie — now provided with ample 
 means — will terminate here, and make a direct con- 
 nection between Erie and both Philadelphia and New 
 York. Beyond a doubt, this will greatly add to the 
 prosperity of Erie, as well as add new facilities to 
 the commerce of the northwest. 
 
 From this point the Lake Shore Railroad will con- 
 duct you to Dunkirk and Buffalo, thence to any 
 point in the world you may desire to reach. But 
 here, my fellow traveler, you and I must part. I 
 will stop here, and then wend nry way back to Ohio, 
 perhaps to Mississippi — who knows? 
 
 Reader — whoever thou art — farewell! I have 
 taken pleasure in your company, and, although we 
 have met only by the way side, and may meet no 
 more, yet it is pleasant to have met — to have seen 
 together so much of our broad country — to have en- 
 joyed the whirl of motion — the velocity unknown to 
 our fathers — the consummation of modern art. Three 
 hundred and fifty miles we have traveled together, 
 and all has been green, and fresh, and beautiful, and 
 
134 The Illustrated Guide. 
 
 grand; and all has been done by the light of a single 
 day! 
 
 Let us call the Past and the Future to witness 
 this same country under different aspects. The Past 
 comes cold with the winds of the wilderness — dark 
 with the solemn shadows of the forest; surrounded 
 with Indian warriors, and lonely with civilization or 
 art. Slowly she wanders by — overhung with clouds 
 and darkness ! Such is the past The present is 
 rich and beautiful. But here comes the Future, 
 draped in all the rich and gorgeous growth of an 
 hundred years. What glorious city is that, panoplied 
 in such vast magnificence ? The Queen of the West 
 sweeps by with her million of inhabitants, her splen- 
 did temples • her gorgeous paintings ; her towers of 
 science ; her pictured gardens ; her vast array of 
 innumerable arts ! And who is this that seems 
 her sister, sitting on the Lake ? Thou, beautiful 
 Cleveland, art risen to high proportions ! Gem of the 
 Lakes — mart of commerce, thou lookest out upon 
 the waters, like one who holds sovereignty over the 
 waves ! And thou, fair Ohio ! spread out in all thy 
 affluence of soil, thy culture and thy energy, thou 
 hast become the Imperial State — the abode of 
 millions, the seat of wealth, the residence of glory ! 
 
 Reader dos't thou doubt, when beholding what is 
 and what has been, that such shall be ? No, thou 
 art made a prophet by this clay's travel. Thou 
 
Conclusion. 
 
 135 
 
 knowest — for thou hast seen it — that here, in this 
 central West, is the seat, and material, and power of 
 an Empire. The course of Nature is onward and 
 upward. Empires will be formed in America, as 
 they were in old Asia ; but with far higher arts, far 
 greater power of life and glory. Cities are rising 
 here, before whose consummation of splendor, Baby- 
 lon would have faded into twilight ; and Genius will 
 display its inventions on a greater and nobler scale, 
 than the world has ever known. 
 
 Reader — whoever thou art — farewell! Where- 
 ever thou goest, may thy dreams be pleasant, and 
 thy soul at peace ! We have met, like the little 
 waves on the deep — for a time blended, then scat- 
 tered — rolling on in the bright sun, and presently 
 breaking on the shore ! Then, no drop lost, we shall 
 be mingled in the great Ocean of Eternity. From 
 that bourne, no traveler shall ever return ! 
 
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