r DESCRIPTION ANCIENT MONUMENTS, WITH INSCRIPTIONS, STILL EXISTINI LYDIA 4ND PHRYGIA, SEVERAL OF WHICH ARE SUPl'OSED TO BE TOMBS OF THE EARLY KINGS. illustrate luitl) ^alntfS, from ^liftrlies matif nil the ^pot, JOHN ROBERT STEUART, ESQ. ^[KMUKEl OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIKTV, LONDON: JAMES BOHN, 12 KING WILLIAM STREET, WEST STRAND. ADVERTISEMENT. It had been my intention to publish the whole of ray Journal and observations made during a Tour through Asia Minor in the spring of 1S37. My motives for doing so were founded neither in interest nor vanity: I was solely guided by a feeling of duty, to make known various discoveries, which I thought likely to prove welcome to those who interest themselves in similar pursuits. In the prosecution of this Tour I had enjoyed advantages such as rarely fall to the lot of the European traveller, having been accompanied by an Armenian friend, familiar with the East, whose attainments and address procured me numerous facilities I should otherwise never have been able to command. Unluckily, after having gone to considerable expense in completing the Plates for illustrating the principal objects, I found that they were not of the precise dimensions required for general circulation, the fastidiousness of modern taste disdaining to peruse any work above the size of an octavo. Unwilling to incur so heavy an additional expense as would have attended the remodelling of the Plates, I came to the resolution of suppressing the work altogether; but several friends, to whose judgment I could not but defer, prevailed on me to publish at least those Plates I had already prepared, accompanying them with a suitable Description. This is the only apology I have to offer for presenting the publication in its present imperfect form. Should it be received with a moderate degree of favour, it will eiicoui'age me to publish whatever incidents occurred, or whatever I noticed as remarkable, during the progress of my Tour. My route conmienced from Smyrna, and proceeded tbruugli Magnesia, Thyatira, Sardis, Plidadelphia, Knula, Julio-Gordus or Gbiordiz, Bagat, Blaundus, Gbiobek, Ushak, Cadi or Ghiediz JEzan\, Cotyfeum or Kutaya, and its neighbourhood ; the vicinity of Doganlu, Nacoleia, now Sidy Ghazy, Dorylfeum, and Brussa ; in all of which places I was enabled to make various interesting discoveries, copying many inscriptions which had hitherto eluded notice, ascertaining by them the sites of various cities, and collecting many curious and unpublished coins. Having been, by the means of my companion, brought into contact with the inhabitants, of all grades and persuasions, I was enabled to collect much information respecting the present state of the country; and as more than three months were occupied in a route which is generally performed in less than an equal number of weeks, it was in my power to make many observations which had escaped the notice of more hasty travellers. Niifli-s, Oct. I, 1S42. J. 11. STEUART. ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LYDIA AND PHRYGIA. Having occasion to proceed from Smyrna to Constantinople, I resolved on undertaking the journey by land, in tlie expectation of passing through an interesting country, which, though frequently traversed, had not been so thoroughly investigated as to preclude the hope of still encountering new objects of antiquarian research. On the 16th of March, 1837, having made the necessary preparations, I set off from Smyrna, accompanied by an Armenian merchant, with whom I had on a former occasion travelled from Tabriz to Constantinople. His great knowledge of the languages of the East, and his happy facility in ingratiating himself with the varied classes and tribes which compose an Asiatic population, were advantages of rare occurrence : nor should I probably have attempted the joimiey, had I not been seconded by this able assistant. We arrived at Manessia the same day : it is a large and flourishing Manessia, or Magnesia ad city, and was anciently known by the denomination of Magnesia ad Sipylum, from its being situated ^'PJ'^'""- on the side of the celebrated mountain of that name. I remained there a few days, during which we made several excursions in the neighbourhood. One of our first was a visit to the famous statue of Niobe, which was noticed nearly 150 years ago by Chishull, though I am not aware that it has been particularly described by any subsequent traveller. The description given of it in lGi)9, by Chishull, is as follows : — " We continued our journey under the foot of Sipylus, which, about two houi's from the city (Manessia), ends in a stupendous precipice, consisting of a naked massy stone, and rising perpendicular almost a furlong high. It was not a little surprising, as we rode along under the foot of the lull, to observe a certain cliff of the rock, representing an exact niche and statue, with the due shape and proportion of a human body. For, Sipylus being the seat of the transformation of the unhappy Niobe, there was ground of imagining, that we had either met with lier statue, or with that whieii was the first occasion of the fable ; at least it was not improbable that this was the work of some ancient inhabitants of this place, who pleased themselves in fasliioning the natural rock into such a figure as might preserve the tradition of tliis celelirated poetic fiction." Not having ever seen any representation of this singular statue, I undertook to delineate it to statue of Nioiie, the best of my ability ; and in order the better to examine it, I clambered up the rock, which is here very steep, and with some difficulty reached the interesting monument. The accompanying Plate will shew, better than any description I can give, the general appearance of the statue, which is ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LYDIA AND PHHYG1A. probably the oldest in existence. Niobe appears to be seated on a chair, or throne, of which little more than the indication is now perceptible : the figure is placed in a recess, or niche ; and to this protection we probably owe its preservation such as we now see it. The style and character of the work correspond with the description given of statues previous to tlie time of Daedalus, who, from having been the first artist who gave a free action to the limbs, is said to have imparted to his statues the power of motion. Although the limbs are not disengaged, the figure of Niobe is designed in a sufficiently easy and natural attitude: the hands appear to have been clasped together upon the breast ; and the head is slightly inclined on one side, with a pensive air, expressive of grief The whole figure bc;u's a strong impress of Archaic style; nevertheless, so little now remains of the original sculpture, that it requires to be studied carefully in order to understand exactly the design. The exterior surface, too, is so much corroded, that the whole mass exhibits not a single trace of the chisel, saving on some remains of the volutes or cm-Is of Niobe's hair, which, from their position, have been better protected from the weather. Pausanias, who is supposed to have been a native of Magnesia, expressly states, that he ascended Sipylus in order to see Niohe, from which we may conclude, that, in his day at least, the statue was considered to be the identical one into which she was transformed. If, therefore, as is most probable, the lege]id of the metamorphose arose from the existence of this statue, we must assign it to a period prior to that in which Homer flourished, since he expressly mentions her statue on Mount Sipylus ; and with this part of Asia Minor he must have been well acquainted fi-om his long residence in the neighbourhood. It is very remarkable that the winds generally rage here with great violence, which may account for the tradition of Niobe having been transported hither by their ministry. Be tliis as it may, I could not behold without admiration the tears still trickhng down the furrows of her grief-worn clieeks, realising what would appear to have been but the fancy of the poet : See also Sopho- " Flet tamen, et validi circumdata turbine v CLES ( An/iff ona unii Ekctrn) ; In palriam rapta est: ubi fixa ci \ (Aga- '•' Yel atill she weeps, and, whirl'd by stormy winds. Borne tlirough the air, ber native country finds; There fix'd she stands upon a hleaky hill ; OviDii Met. vi. 310-12. | There yet her marble cheeks eternal tears distil." Or as described by Homer {II. fl. (il5): "Ev SitrvX^, SSi ^aai Beawv e/i/ievai et/vih " There high, on Sipylus' shaggy brow, Nvfiipilrov, air afiij) 'jlj^eXioEov ippamavro, She sita, her own sad monument of woe ; "Eyda, UBo^ Trip iovaa, B^m ix, «JCIH:NT monuments of LYDIA and I'HRYGIA. These sculptures may either be ex votos, or allude to subjects counected with the baths. The discovery of the latter may possibly be commemorated by the representation of the Phrygian hunts- man and his dogs. A group somewhat similar is seen on a rare and beautiful Sicihan medal of Segeste, on which a young huntsman is looking down with attention on something discovered by his two dogs. Gygeaii Lake, ^ "^^X mention having visited the Gygean Lake, and the interesting tumuh which border its tomU. shore ; these are the tombs of the ancient kings of Lydia : amongst others, that of Halyattes, the father of Croesus, rises pre-eminent. On its summit may still be perceived the remains of a pavement of brick, and a decayed fragment of one of the pillars which decorated this gigantic mound. Most of these tumuli being intact, I felt a strong desire to explore their innermost recesses ; and we indulged in a long train of speculation on the most expedient mode of realising this fascinating project, which, though attended with difficulties, we agreed was by no means impracticable, if properly managed. Ghioniiz, or I also passed over to Gliiordiz, the ancient Gordus, or Julio-Gordus, where I copied several Julio-Gordus. interesting inscriptions ; amongst others, two with the name of the city, which had hitherto escaped the notice of travellers. I repaired also to the neighbouring village and stupendous peak of Khyadjik, Cieon. insci-ip- near which I discovered the stronghold of Cleon, the celebrated predatory chief, restorer of Gordus, tion on tlie rock. as mentioned by Strabo. The extraordinary and all but inaccessible position sufficiently indicated the fastness of the chieftain ; and I was confirmed in this idea by actually discovering in its precincts an inscription with his name cut out in the rock. Sirghf, or Biigfe. My route led me through the neighbourhood of Tabula to Sirghe, the ancient Bag^, and from Giiiobck'. thence to Ghiobek, near the ruins of an ancient city, described by Arundel as Clanudda ; but which Biaundus. J ascertained to be Blnundus, not only from many coins of Blaundus found there — one of which I myself picked up — but also from the inscription on a tombstone in a Turkish cemetery at Ghiobek, which I ascertained, from the son of the man over whose grave it stood, to have been brought from Blaundus, now Solyman-M. Uabak. I proceeded from this to Ushak, famous for Ijeing the place where tlie largest Turkey carpets are maimfactured : its ancient name has not yet been ascertained. Our next stage was Ghiediz, formerly Cadi, situated at a distance of eight miles from tlie Hermus, and not upon it, as has jEzani. or been generally supposed. We then proceeded to Chav-dcr, a village on the site of the ancient ^zani, where may be contemplated the fine remains of the Temple formerly sacred to Jupiter ^zanitus, the Theatre, and many other minor objects, wliich are strewed around with a luxuriance suffident to satisfy the most craving antiquarian appetite. The principal of these have been already described by numerous scientific and talented travellers. At length we reached Kiutaieh, the ancient Cotysum, which I had long looked forward to as the station from whence I was to penetrate into the recesses of Dogan-lu, the antiquities of which had many years ago made a strange impression on my imagination, in consequence of the description given by Colonel Leake of a monument which he and his party had discovered there. Kiutaieh, or Kiutaich is a fine town, with good bazaars and shops ; it is remarkable as being the extreme station occupied by Ibrahim Bey and his Egyptian troops, of whom we heard a good deal. It was also occupied for some time by the army of Tamerlane when moving against Bajazet : its fertile plain, watered by the Thymbrus or Pursek, affords immense resources for the maintenance and encampment of troops, particularly cavalry. In the town are still to be seen many remains of antiquity ; and, amongst other inscriptions, I copied one with the name of the city, which had escaped the notice of preceding travellers. ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LYDIA AND PHRYGIA. 5 Strange to say, we could find no one to give us any information respecting Dogan-lii and its Dognn-ia. monument ! yet, according to Col. Leake's description, it ought not to be at any great distance from Kiutaieh. They pointed out a place of the name of Dogan-lar, lying in a south-east direction, Dogan-iar. but the bearings of the other ought to have been in a northerly one. We had, however, no other resource except giving up the chase altogether; but this being an alternative I was not yet inclined to adopt, and although every one who knew any thing of Dogan-lar assured us that there were no antiquities of any kind in that neighbourhood, we set about engaging horses, and at eleven o'clock on Wednesday, the 17th of May, we started, in company with a government surajee. We reached Dogan-lar after a ride of about five hours, and put up at the Aga's. From the information he gave us, I was soon convinced that we were quite wrong in our route ; but as he said there were some exca- vations about four hours off, we agreed to repair thither next morning. The Aga himself accompanied us in quality of cicerone, and we found the road very agreeable. It lay in a northerly direction, and passed through a well-cultivated country for about two hours ; after which we began to ascend, entering a wood of pines and cedars, the road being frequently gravelled like that of a well-kept park. After two hours more we came to a spot in a ravine, with a fountain and many ruins, vaults, and subterraneous water-courses. There were also many sarcophagi, but all of them had been rifled. A lad here, who was tending a few sheep, came forward and volunteered to guide us to an old building, constructed, as he said, of large stones ; and in about twenty minutes of a difficult ascent through a craggy thicket, he led us to the singular structure which is represented in Plate IV. It proved to be a sepulchral chamber or Sepulchral vault, vault, built of atones of great size. The front presented a very handsome arch {about fifteen feet high), supported on each side by plainly ornamented projections, the breadth of the building being about twenty feet. The entrance was by a small square door, above which was a mouUhng in the same style as the projections ; and on each side were the remains of a cornice with dentils, the whole bearing the stamp of high antiquity. This monument being placed in a ravine on rising ground, its further extremity gradually falls in with the level of, and is closed by, the rock : in front, many large squared stones were lying about — they had probably formed a portico or approach to the tomb. The length of the building was about twenty-three feet. In the inside were six sarcophagi, three on each side : those on the right were cut out in the rock, with plain covers of the usual form, that is to say, in the shape of a house-top ; the three on the left were detached— two of them had been broken up; the whole had, as usual, been opened : a slight hollow border or edging, carried round the vault about half way up, was the only ornament; and I could see no appearance whatever of inscriptions. Numerous bats were hovering about, or, suspended from the vault by their claws, were swinging to and fro, making a chirping noise, their heads and ears in constant movement, and altogether more lively than I had ever obsci'ved in this secluded class of animals. The tomb is surrounded by pine-trees of large size and dwarf oaks ; it stands in a recess, so secluded, that without a guide it would have been almost impossible to discover it : the solid parts were all in a very perfect state. I have no doubt that it must have been the mausoleum of some powerful chieft ain, and I was strongly impressed with the idea that, should ever the tumuli of the Lydian kings be laid open, the tombs which they surmount and conceal will prove to be of a similar construction. Returning to my party, who had left me occupied in making a sketch of the tomli, I found we Affgiian-kin had formed acquaintance with some Yuruks who were encamped in the vicinity. They shewed us all about the place, and although we saw nothing particularly striking, it was evident that considerable habitations had formerly existed here. These Yuruks are a strong, hardy, active race— their order or camp is called Affghan-kin. They invited us to pai'take of refreshment in the tent of their chief, which G ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LYIJJA AND PHKYGIA. consisted of a large circular enclosure surmounted by a dome formed by branches covered with felt, but open at the top. This contrivance makes it very light and airy, quite diiferent from what the outside promises. These people resemble very much, both in features and complexion, the natives of our own islands — some of the females even had red hair and blue eyes. One of the men undertook to conduct us to what he considered the grand object of our expedition ; and we accordingly proceeded in a direction of west by north towards the village of Gherris. Our road was chiefly in ascent through a fine forest of pines, and in two or three places I observed the appearance of lava. On emerging from the wood, we found ourselves on a small plain in which was a steep white rock full of sepulchral grottoes and perforations, which our guide pointed out as the object we were in quest of. However, we were soon undeceived, for the rock was of too soft a nature long to retain any sculptures that might have been engraved on it ; so, after a fruitless search for some other monument of interest, we made for Gherris, which we reached at nightfall, after a ride of nearly five hours from Affghan-kin. We were hospitably entertained by the Aga, and, as is usual on such occasions, were visited by all the notables of the village. Amongst these was the Imam, who, on learning the motive of our expedition, informed us that he was a native of the village of Gomhet-li, only a couple of hours distant from the Yazeli-kiiya, or sculptured rock ; and he recommentled us by all means to make that village our head-quarters. Of this unexpected and truly welcome intelligence we immediately prepared to avail ourselves, but in this good purpose we were thwarted by the obstinacy and perverseness of our surajee, who would neither listen to remonstrance nor yield to menace ; he even began to abuse the Yuruk for shewing us, as he asserted, all the secrets of the country, threatening to report hira to the government at Kiutaieh Under these circumstances, although he was in the sequel obliged to beg our pardon, considering that we had already lost two days, and that we were not prepared for so long an absence from Kiutaieh, we decided on returning, in order to coiicert measures for proceeding on our journey and visiting Gombet-li. In the mornhig I copied a long and rather interesting inscription from a stone in the village, said to have been brought from Sash-kupri. I noticed a baptismal font, also some excavations hard by the village, which appeared to have been small Christian chapels. We reached Kiutaieh in about seven houirs, taking a lower road than the one by which we came, and crossing the Pursek by a bridge distant about an hour and a quarter from the town. On Tuesday, the 23d May, we started at an early hour, our course lying north-east. After a ride of an hour and a half, we crossed the Pursek by a small bridge near a village, with a tumulus to the right. Half an hour afterwards, we left the plain, and ascended gently through a country with a few dwarf oaks and pines ; and directing our course hence south-east for two hours through a hilly pine country, in another hour we crossed a small clear rivulet, and ascended to the village of Khoslujah. The road was very good all the way, but we saw no inhabitants after leaving the plain. We had to remain here the night, as there is no village on the road for a great distance, and the country is very intricate. There are several peaks of red jasper near this, Wednesday 24th. We were already on our way at a quarter past five, our road lying through a beautiful country. After three hours, we began to descend close to a small village, the only one we saw. Following the course of the river to the north-east, after one hour we came upon an ancient burying-ground full of cippi. Proceeding onwards, we met several Arabas with buffaloes; and after another hour passed a cemetery with still more numerous vestiges, then through extensive pasture- grounds, and roads somewhat indistinct ; mistaking our way by following an Araba track, we lost an hour and a half Thence, passing through a gipsy, or Chingani, encampment of seven or eight tents, the peojile chiefly occupied in rearing horses, at half-past two we reached our halting-place, the village of Kui-k/i. after a ride of upwards of nine hours, having tasted nothing since the previous evening. ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LYDIA AND PHIIYGIA. 7 This is, properly speaking, only the yaila, or summer residence of the villagers; and the wooden huts had all been recently constructed. We were now within three or four hours of Gombet-li ; and as we are told that the villajre of Gherris is only four hours distant, we must have made a long detour. Next morning, after breakfast, we went to see some antiquities wliich the headman of the village described as being one hour distant. These proved to be sepulchral excavations on the side of a craggy rock of a very romantic appearance. Several of them were Christian, and the fresco painting still adhered to the walls; only one of these excavations exhibited an inscription. We did not leave Kurkli till the afternoon, as we had so short a distance to go. We began our journey by descendmgin the direction of north-west by a defile, at the outlet of which stood a rock which had a most remarkable resemblance to a monkey seated : see Plate V. We then crossed a fine plain watered by a stream ; Monkcy-pnaa Plate \'. and after passing a small village, we commenced a gentle ascent, and soon came on the western extremity of the plain of Gomhet-U ; on the road we observed a number of fine agates and jaspers. Gombet-h has a singular appearance from afar. The town is situated on a basaltic rock, and is Gnmbet-li. surmounted by a handsome-looking tlome, from which it derives its name. The form of the rock gives it the appearance of a fortification ; while a Tiumher of craggy eminences arising out of the plain, or near the sides of the surrounding hills, full of sepulchral caves, and some of them perforated hke houses, add greatly to the singularity of the scene. We were three hours and a half on the road. A fine stream meanders through tlie plain. We crossed it by a bridge about a mile fi-om the town ; but to our great surprise we did not meet a single human being. The same solitude pervaded the town, all the streets of which we traversed hallooing lustily, in the hope of rousing some one of the inhabitants. Vain hope ! nothing but a dismal echo responded to our shouts. We penetrated into the Aga's court, and even into the recesses of the dome, without encountering a single creature save two or three half-starved cats, who came mewing about us, as if happy once more to recognise a human face. Full of perplexity, we entered a house which had the appearance of an oda. Here we made a fire ; but it took us a full hour before we could obtain any water : all the fountains being dry, we had to grope our way back to the bridge in the dark before we got any. We then prepared such a supper as our scanty means afforded; after which, stretching ourselves on our carpets, we resigned ourselves to Providence, and soon were overtaken with the refreshing slumbers we were so nmch in need of after the fatigues of a busy and anxious day. 26th. We were up with the dawn ; and soon after, a man on horseback, with his domestic, passed under our balcony. From him we learnt that the inhabitants had left the village for their yaila, or summer residence. He pointed out to us a place where we should find a spring of excellent water ; and shortly after, other villagers, returning to their rustic occupations, made their appearance. An Avjee, or chasseur, volunteered as guide to the Yazeli-kuya, and other antiquities in the neio-h- bourhood — the number and importance of which he greatly magnified. Being Friday all the notables came to perform their devotions at the Mosque ; and we had no want of company, every one assm-ing us that we were the first people in tlie Frank dress that had ever appeared in their village. We found we had made a great prize, there being a beautiful sepulchre under the Aga's house : Aga's hca^. see Plate VI. Opposite our oda there are many sepulchral chambers in the rocks, at the distance ^'"'^ of about a mile and a half. Many of these tombs were ornamented with frontispieces in the shape of small temples, and had short inscriptions without dates. 27th May, We started after breakfast, under the escort of the Avjee, in a south-east direction; ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LYDIA AND I'HIiYGIA. and in about two hours reached a narrow pass or defile, confined on each side by steep rocks, covered with pine-trees and stunted oak, and having a streamlet in the middle. On a rock, the surface of wliich had been smoothed, and which stood about half-way up the declivity to the right, Piirygiaii tomb. but nearly hidden by the trees and bushes, we discovered a very remarkable sepulchral monument, of a riaii' vri. simple but singular appearance, which will best be understood from the accompanying sketch (Plate VII.). On climbing to the top, I found that the entrance was from thence ; but the opening had most likely been concealed by a stone, which must have been afterwards thrown down, probably by an earthquake ; for had it been otherwise, another opening, which has been effected in the centre by force (in the middle of what appears to be a false wiiidow or doorway), would not have been required in order to gain admission. I looked in vain for an inscription ; nor was there any appearance of ornament in the interior, in which I only saw some of the usual plain sarcophagi scooped out in the rock. This massive fragment, which has been hollowed out, is detached from the main rock. It is a kind of ferruginous sandstone, interspersed with small bits of reddish granite. Close by 1 noticed another isolated mass, which seemed to have been prepared for a tomb also — perhaps, indeed, for the same party as the first, but afterwards abandoned on account of some flaw in the stone. From this we proceeded to the yaila, or summer quarters of the villagers, where we ordered a repast, while we went on up a hill, the distance of half an hour, when we reached a spot in a grove Chriptian sar- of pluc and oak, whlch was full of handsomely formed sarcophagi, all of which, however, had been cuphagi. opened. On many of them I observed the sign of the cross, shewing them to be Christian tombs ; but on none did I find any inscription. In other respects they differed in nothing from the more ancient ones ; so that this mode of burial must liave been retained long after the establislmient of Christianity. There were here also the remains of a large building, supported by strong buttresses ; it had probably been a church, of which this was the crypt. On returning to Gombet-li we visited an eminence opposite our oda, at the top of which was Takin, and in- the takla or sepulchre of a dervish. Hei-e we found an oblong marble slab with an inscription, by scripliai,. which the city (H nOAIC) honoured one of its meritorious officers. From tliis, as well as from the many other remains of antiquity around, we may infer that a city existed here, although, unluckily, its name has not been recorded. Tlie 28th of May we set off early in the morning, with the intention of pro- ceeding to Dogan-lu. At the end of the plain we passed a large tumulus, on the summit of which we noticed some remains of masonry. Shortly after, we entered a noble pine-forest, where we observed a very singular appearance produced by a number of pavilion-shaped masses of white earth, which, rising pyramidically in the midst of the wood, had all the semblance of a magnificent encampment, and would, vrithout hesitation, have been taken for such in any other place. In the jiosition we saw them, it Entrance to appeared at first little short of enchantment, so perfect was the resemblance. In two hours from our Dogan-lu. Piatii viii. Starting we entered the gorge of the valley of Dogan-lti : see Plate VIII. MoDunitzit. We had not proceeded far liefore we noticed on the right a very remarkable monument, somewhat in the style of that described by Col. Leake, but of a less archaic character, since it exhibits a com- bination of the Grecian with what I think we may now term the Phrygian style. It is sculptured on the face of the rock, and seems to represent the form of a magnificent sarcophagus. Although very much impaired by the injuries of time and exposure to the weather, the intentions of the sculptor are Plate IX. sufficiently clear (see Plate IX.); but I considered the subject of so much interest as to warrant my endeavouring to give an idea of the effect produced when the monument was in a more perfect state, as Plate X. well as to exhibit more clearly the minutia: of the details : see Plate X. I endeavoured, but in vain, to discover the entrance into the tomb, of" which we may presume this sculpture to be the frontispiece. We know the great precautions which were taken in former times to conceal the entrance into ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LYDIA AND PHHYGIA. 9 sepulchres, and it will therefore not be surprising that my attempts on tliis occasion proved fruitless ; but although I took the utmost pains to discover the secret, it does not follow that it may not be found by some one who is able to devote more time and means than were then at my command. On the platform above, which, however, is not perceptible in the sketch, I observed several seats cut in the rock, which shews that the spot must have been frequented. Below may be seen the remains of two niches, not unconnnon near ancient monuments, and generally destined for votive offerings, lamps, or small statues. At some little distance from this, nearer the entrance of the gorge, was a small cave (see Plate VIII.), which may possibly have been in former times a sacred grotto. Plate viii. Proceeding onwards, we encountered a lofty rocky projection or ridge, which seemed to form the barrier of the pass : it was on the same side and at no great distance -from the sculpture just described. Rounding tliis projection, we found that the surface on the other side had been smoothed, and the magnificent monument we had so long and anxiously sought stood at length before us arrayed in all Tomb of Midas, the venerable majesty of antiquity and grandeur ! (see Plate XI.) Simple yet sublime, — suffering from, Piaw xi. yet still braving, the elements and age — it seems to tell of heroic times; inspiring admiration, exciting curiosity, and commanding veneration. The sight of this extraordinary monument filled me with an indescribable emotion of wonder and delight, such as I Iiave rarely felt, but such as one must always feel on first beholding a magnificent object, which has long been contemplated in imagination, and is found to exceed in reahty whatever fancy had pictured. It was a considerable time before I could withdraw myself from the contemplation of this won- derful landmark of the olden time, in order to examine its more minute peculiarities. The inscriptions claimed my first attention ; the lower one I found to coincide almost entirely with that given by Col. Leake ; indeed the letters are so distinct, that it would be dilficult for a practised hand not to copy them exactly (see No. 1 of Inscriptions) : the upper one, from its height, is a work of greater labour, and particularly the commencement, which, from being less perfect, and liable, moreover, to alteration of appearance according as the sun strikes on it, of course presents greater difficulties (see No. 2 of Inscriptions). It commences with the word Ates or Atys, a well-known Phrygian name, and also con- tains that of Midas in the dative case, with the athx of Ir 'uig, whence this has been denominated the Tomb of Midas. The general appearance of the monument gives one the idea of the gable-front of a house, the lower part being too lengthened to suggest tliat of a sarcophagus, — besides which, the representation of a doorway forbids such a supposition. The ornaments are sculptured in low rehef, and the pecu- liarity of the design impressed me with the idea of its being intended, in some parts at least, to imitate a piece of tapestry. This district was famous from the remotest antiquity for the productions of the loom, Arachne herself having been a native of Lydia. I think it even not at all unlikely that the effect of the sculpture may have been originaUy heightened by painting. Three or four bright colours would suffice to give the w^ork a very brilliant appearance — indeed, these lozenge-formed figures used, within my own recollection, to be a very frequent pattern in the common carpets manufactured in Scotland and other parts of this island, previous to the recent refinements introduced by a more complicated system of machinery. Should this sculpture be actually the facade of a tomb, as there is every reason to suppose, it is satisfactory to thuik that the assaults of cupidity, in attempting to rifle it of the treasures which are doubtlessly preserved in its bosom, have hitherto been baffled. The semblance of a door has induced an attempt to penetrate in that direction, and the rock has been broken into to a considerable depth, without, however, leading to any result. I exerted myself strenuously to discover, if possible, some clue to the entrance, and have reason to ' think I succeeded. I must, however, reserve my thscovery for a fitting occasion, should any such occur. It will be observed that there is a I) 10 ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LYDIA AND PHRYGIA. very deep and extensive fissure, which commences at the top of the ridge, and penetrates a considerable way into the sculptured part of the monument, very nearly destroying the ornament which crowns the summit. This has evidently been the effect of earthquake, and not improbably of that celebrated one which occurred under the reign of Tiberius, upon the crucifixion of our Saviour. There is a fine valley below the monument, and at no great distance a delicious fountain, near which we despatched our Mishmish Kaieai. pastoral but hearty breakfast ; after which we paid a visit to the frowning castle of Mishmish Kalesi, situated at the bottom of the valley. This ancient fortress stands on the top of a very steep hill, which, from its abruptness, we found difficult to mount on horseback, and tiien only in a zig-zag com-se. Neai' the summit we were obliged to dismount ; we entered by a gate which was defended by immense blocks of masonry ; the wall itself is formed out of the solid rock ! The castle is of small size, but appears to be the work of a very early age ; traces of buildings still remain, but nothing of a very decided character : the gateway by which we entered is behind that part wliieh fronted the Tomb of Midas. In the direction opposite the gate, there is a secret passage or postern leading down to the base of the castle by a staircase of twenty-four steps, hewn out of the solid rock, as is also the arched pas- sage ; the exterior outlet was completely blocked up with fragments of the rock precipitated from above. Groito with Returning to the Tomb of Midas, I entered a small square grotto on the left of the monument : inscription. on its three sides I found a singular inscription in very long characters (see No. 3 of Inscriptions), apparently of the same age with those on the monument. They appear to me to form an hexameter verse, and to consist of three interrogations, such as who ? whence f whither ? each followed by a response. This discovery redoubled our zeal, and, extending our investigations along the same ridge, we lighted on another in the rock above a niche or altar, to which there was an ascent of two or three steps (see No. 4 of Inscriptions). Near this altar we found a third inscription on an elevated square compartment (see No. 5 of Inscrip.) ; and above the altar, very slightly cut m the rock, was a figme in a garb somewhat similar to the ancient Persian, with an object before it resembling a hook or crotchet. The one which terminated our researches (having in vain looked all around for others) was cut out on the side of a seeming altar or throne (see No. 6 of Inscrip.) : this was, however, less distinct than the others, particularly in the second line. In the rock adjacent to the monument were many sepulchral grottoes and excavations, some evidently Cluistian ; so that this locality must have been used for above an hundred generations as a necropoUs, beginning and ending with the ^ 29th. We had not been very well satisfied with our avjee, and had consequently engaged another Yupui-iiak. guide, who took us to a place called YapuUdalc, a small village about two hours off to the south-east ; opposite to wliich is a hill, the plateau of which is girt round by basaltic rocks, some of which rise in high peaks or needles. In this rocky circumvallation are many excavated chambers, used for sheepfolds, granaries, &c., and, being generally locked and the proprietors absent, I could only examine a few of them. The weather becoming very rainy, we were obliged to return ; but as this was a place evidently of some interest, we resolved on paying it another visit. We had noticed an object about three miles off, opposite to our oda— it had very much the Custie or fort. appearance of a castellated structure : we accordingly directed our course towards it, and found it such as we had supposed. It was extremely steep and difficult to enter; it had an arched gateway, with steps cut out of the solid rock ; the passage was blocked up by rubbish and fragments of stones, but thirty steps in the passage were still unencumbered (very much resembling Mishmish Kalesi) : these, as well as the vaulted passage, were cut out of the solid rock. It was a fine work. There were also two large reservoirs for water, many seats, altars, steps, &c., all hewn out of the rock, but no inscriptions or figures. It was doubtless the principal fortress of the vicinity. In the same direction, at no great ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LVDIA AND HHliYGIA. 11 distance, was another excavation in the rock, evidently a Christian chapel, shewing still some remains christkn dmpel. in painted stucco of saints and Christian emblems. 30th May. We proceeded again to Dogan-lu, but by another route, so as to enter the valley from the opposite or northern extremity. Near this is a large isolated rock, steep and rising to a point, full of sepulelu:al chambers and excavations, with a staircase leading to the upper compartments, but in such a ruined state, and withal blocked up, that to ascend it was impracticable. This rock is known as Dogan-lu Kalesi, which, however, seems to be a fanciful appellation. As far as could be judged from Dogan-iii Kak-si. the exterior, as well as from such part of the interior as was accessible, there is nothing particularly interesting in these chambers. Near this we observed another isolated mass which had been applied to sepulchral purposes : a suite of several chambers was fronted with the form of a small Doric temple, which had been fashioned out of the rock, and produced a very pleasing effect : see Plate XII. It was, Plate xii. of coui'se, of a much later date than the other monuments already described. There were here some vestiges of short funeral inscriptions in the common Greek character. Proceeding onwards in the direction of Mishmish Kalesi, I noticed on the right an appearance of sculpture imbedded in the jungle up the side of a rocky bank ; and, hastening quickly towards it, had the inexpressible gratification of discovering another monument in the Phrygian style, with copious inscriptions. As the guide was at Tomb with in- scriptions. some distance when I made the discovery, and knew nothing of the monument, I had flattered myself with being the first who had brought it to fight ; the disappointment I felt may therefore be conceived when I found the name of a celebrated traveller inscribed on the side. This monument scarcely offers any details differing from the two already described, except that the two square figures in the triangular compartment evidently represent two folding-doors, locked, and well studded with bolts ; but what gives it an extraorthnary value and importance are the inscriptions with which it is enriched. I have given two sketches of this mterestmg monument,— Plate XIII. shewing Plmce xili. xiv. its position, and Plate XIV. carrying out its details and inscriptions : these latter exhibit a remarkable instance of the boustrophcdon system of writing, varying alternately from left to right and from right to left. This circumstance, independent of the words being divided by points, and the letters being of the most archaic form, must invest these inscriptions with a character of high importance. Leaving their solution to the learned, who, I am convinced, will fully appreciate their value, I may observe that the first word, FPEKTN, seems to indicate Phrygian ; MATEP, or mother, occurs in three different cases ; two letters, FA, not forming a word, would appear to be numerals ; APEZAZTIN seems to be the name of a female ; AAYIT, to offer that of David ; and the word BONOK, has an Assyrian sound : the dialect appears to be Doric. Havmg had a good deal of experience in copying inscriptions, and having bestowed the utmost attention upon these, I think I can vouch for their fidelity and correctness, the more so as they are in very good preservation ; the only portion, and that a very small one, respecting which I had any doubt is that iimnediateiy under the central pillar. On the 31st we went again to Yapul-dak, and had a better opportunity of examining the anti- quities than at our previous visit. The exterior of one of the tombs is ornamented with the fa9ade of a neat little temple, similar m some respects (though vastly inferior) to that under the Aga's house at Gombet-li. The architrave of the temple was surmounted with a large cup, and had a bossed shield, or rather omphalus, in the centre : inside were some very singular Medusa's heads, tlie wings being apparently those of a butterfly. We entered one of the tombs, which led to a small ledge on the outer Tomb at Yapul- dak. side of the basaltic girdle wliich surrounds the plateau, and is here very precipitous. Over this outer entrance is represented a sarcophagus of large dimensions (perhaps the gable-front of a house or temple) ; in the upper compartment is an obefisk, before which are seen two horses, apparently in the act of adoration : see Plate XV. It has the appeai-ance of considerable antiquity, and perhaps alludes Plate XV. 12 ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF LYDIA AND PHRYGIA. to tlie worship of tlie Sun, who is frequently typified by an obelisk ; the horse we know was consecrated Antonio. to that deity. We visited, not far from this, a locality known by the name of Antonio, in which were several Christian tombs, one of which was formed of a large perforated rock like a doorway, under the open square of which was a coffin or trough, with the inscription : — THC0O A OTHC TOMNHMA ©e Another, in a grotto, with three coffins, was inscribed : — I I TIMO0E - - vnexY nOA Y A - - Christian tombs, the red colouT, or minium, being still quite fresh in the letters. There were also several large grottoes, which appear to have served once as habitations, and were at present occupied by some vagrants, but so full of filth as to repel approach. The solitary appearance of the place, and these simple epitaphs denoting an early period of Christianity, make it probable that it afforded an asylum and place of con- cealment during the first persecutions of the Churcli. I may here mention, that in a tomb near Gonibet-h I found a long Christian epitaph, with the date of XMF, or 623 ; many of the letters still preserved their red colour, which we may presume was always applied to inscriptions of this kind. Thursday, 1st June. I had at various intervals turned my attention to the tomb under the Aga's' house, and had even contrived to enter it by a small arched opening which led to it from a dark lumber-room in the dwelling. This I luckily discovered by removing unobserved a quantity of wood and other rubbish which obstructed it: all tliis could not have been achieved had the village been occupied, and as it was, I was obhged to proceed with great secrecy, as the shghtest suspicion would have put an end to all further investigation ; indeed, we were already looked upon as somewhat mys- terious personages, and such a clandestine proceeding, if discovered, would have decided our character at once ; nor was there wanting some sort of motive for such imputation in our paying any marked attention to this crypt, since it was generally credited that the late Aga had enriched himself by the discovery of a large treasure in it, and, from various details we heard, the fact is by no means im- Tonib of Solon, probable. It required a good deal of precaution in entering, as the tomb was nearly quite dark. Plate XVI. On letting myself down, my feet rested on a kind of ledge : groping my way inch by inch, I proceeded along this ledge round a pit or well, which I ascertained to contain rakes, shovels, and other rustic implements, until I reached an arched opening that led into another chamber, which was not quite so dark as the first, as it received a faint glimmering light from without through a kind of loop-hole in a stone that with several others blocked up the entrance from without : see Plate XVI. The day previous to our going away, we removed a good many of these stones, so that we had plenty of light to reconnoitre the whole of the interior, although we had already pretty well ascertained the plan of this secret abode. Supposing one, therefore, to enter from the front, we find a small chamber, havuig on the left hand a kind of arched niche or alcove, at the bottom of which is a stone coffin cut in the rock ; the cover has been removed, and it is empty. It was probably once tenanted by the body of one of the officers or relations of the principal personage. In front is a small opening leading into the inner chamber : above the opening there is a broad band, having an inscription in fine Ionian letters three inches long — GOAUJN1IONOC ANCIENT MONUMENTS OV LV.DIA AND PHKYCIA, 13 the latter portion very much degraded, but the first quite distinct. The inner opening is above the TombofSoU level of the floor, and you descend two steps to reach that of the second chamber, on each side of which is a coffin, cut, as the first, out of the rock; a larger one occupies the farthest end; they are all empty. The middle of the chamber forms a kind of well, and has the appearance of having been excavated in search of treasure. The whole is perfectly simple, and without any ornament. The stone is a kind of grey sandstone, but very hard. The outside is, however, richly decorated, and indicates the monument to have appertained to a personage of high rank, whieli is further confirmed by its occupyitig the most conspicuous point of the rock, still the station of the Aga's more humble khonak. The sculpture figures the semblance of a noble sarcophagus, surmounted by a simple border of foliage, and having an ornament of acanthus on the summit and two corners : a cornice of dentils succeeds, in the spaces between which are scenic masks. A round shield-Uke object occupies the centre of the field, and on each side of it stands an eagle, the heads of which no longer remain. Thus far the cover of the sarcophagus is supposed to be described ; in the centre of the case, or body, stands a large diota of handsome jjroportions, guarded by a lion and lioness in the attitude of adoration, — the former appearing to advance, the other to recede. The basement of the tomb is occupied by a doorway, that portion of it which forms the entrance being narrowest at the top : on the right side may be observed a bison, or humped bull, frequent on the coins of this district, but now no longer seen in the country; on the left is a head of Medusa. The modern building encroaches on the right-hand portion, and the left terminates in a few steps cut out in the rock ; these are carried on behind a wall, as may be seen in Plate VI., and seem to have led on the other side to an altar, vi. of which I could still trace some faint vestiges ; a few niches for lamps or votive offerings also remain. However flattering to the imagination, which delights to dwell on the reminiscences of illustrious mortals, criticism forbids us to suppose that this tomb can belong to the celebrated legislator of the name inscribed on the band of the interior. That the monument dates, nevertheless, from the purest era of Grecian art, will, I think, scarcely be denied ; and as certain names were peculiar to, and usually retained in, families, it is not impossible or unlikely that the personage here entombed may have belonged to that of the Athenian Solon, who, it is well known, visited Lydia when this district was subject to Croesus; and his descendants may have long continued to cultivate the ancient intercourse. On a coin of Apamea, one of its principal cities, the name of Solon, as a magistrate, is found. Our monument probably dates from 100 to 200 years after the death of the legislator. The shield-like figure may have reference to the worship of the Delphic Apollo, who was greatly revered by the kings both of Lydia and Plu-ygia; it would then represent the sacred omphalus which was venerated at Delphi, and was supposed to be a type of the centre of the earth, since it was there that two eagles, despatched in contrary directions to fly round the world, again met on their return. These eagles were represented at Delphi in a sacred grotto ; and we see them also on our monument, with the omphalus between them, figured precisely as on the medals qf that city. I may take this opportunity of hazarding some conjectures relative to the Midas who is mentioned in the inscription of the great monument of Dogan-lu. There are, I believe, three distinct kings of Phrygia of the name of Midas known to ancient history. The mythological fables related of the first have given him universal celebrity. He is stated by Eusebius to have fiom-ished about 700 years after the birth of Abraham, or about 150 years before the Trojan war ; and is called by Athenisus, Midas, the son of Gordius. A second is also recorded by Eusebius to have reigned from 1278 to 1321 after Abraham, consequently upwards of 600 years later than the other. He was a contemporary of Romulus and Numa Pompilius. This is probably the Midas, son of Gordyas, mentioned by Herodotus as the first of the barbarian kings who sent offerings 14 ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF I.YDIA AND I'HKVOIA. to the Delphic oracle. The third is incidentally mentioned by Herodotus, when he says that his grandson, Adrastus, son of Gordyas, repaired to the court of Croesus. Crcesus began his reign 1456 years after Abraham, consequently Midas, the grandfather of Adrastus, must have flourished about 120 to 140 years after his predecessor, second of that name known ; and is probably the Midas, king of Phrygia, the epitaph on whose tomb is alluded to by different authors ; which epitaph is attributed, by the most competent authorities, to Cleobulus of Liudus, one of the seven sapients of Greece, a contemporary of Solon, and consequently of Croesus. To this last Midas our monument cannot possibly be adjudged, because his tomb, epitaph and all, had already disappeared in the days of Dionis Chryaos- Dio Chrysostom, who moralises on the vanity of pretensions to immortality such as are set forth in XXXVII. ffi^i/. epitap]) ; besides which, the epitaph itself was feigned to be spoken by a brazen statue : — XaXioj TTO.pSfi'D! ei/ii, Ml&a & (iri o-tJ/iot! xeifi-ai. " JEni.-s sum virgu, Midic qua.' iiKMiiiilio scpulcliru." A frivolity quite foreign to the grave simplicity of style which characterises our Dogan-lu monument. It would be rather too much, however, to assert that it appertains to the fabulous Midas, although it is but just to mention that Colonel Leake was struck with the resemblance between the style of its ornaments and those of the remains of sculpture seen at Mycene, which may possibly date as far back as the era assigned to Midas. It remains to consider the claim of that Midas, who, first of the barbaric kings, sent presents to the oracle at Delphi. Now as there is nothing in the forms of the writing, the style, semi-barbarous, of the language, the character and apparent liigh antiquity of the monument itself, which is incom- patible with the period of this Midas, who must have flourished about 150 years before the conquest of Lydia by Cyrus, — to him, therefore, In the absence of other competitors, we may venture to award the honour of the monument, trusting that we shall not thereby render ourselves liable to the penalty for false judgment, for which his own family furnishes so memorable a precedent. On the 2d of June we left this interesting station, where I had passed one of the most delightful weeks of my life, and where I would willingly have continued another ; but my companion's health began to be seriously affected, and rendered our departure indispensable. In about eight hours of very Sidy Giiaiy. good road we arrived at Sidy Ghazy : here, and in the vicinity, I found access to many interesting inscriptions, which I copied, establishing, beyond doubt, by several of them, that Sidy Ghazy stands Nacoieia. on the site of ancient Nacoleia, chief place of all this district until the period of the Mahomedan conquest, and probably even after it. We proceeded from hence to jEs/ci Sheher, or Doryl^um, celebrated for its hot baths and meerschaum. I was here also enabled to copy several inscriptions, one with the name of the city, until now a desideratum. My route from hence to Constantinople it is needless here to dilate on, as it lay through a country often described by other travellers, and unattended with any remarkable occurrence. INSCRIPTIONS. The inscriptions Nos. 1 to 7 were all found in tlie plain of Dogan-lu, and appear to belong nearly to the same period. No. 7 is probably of the iatest date. Nos. 1 and 2 are from the Tomb of Midas, and may be easily traced on the Plate representing that monument : it is on No. 2 that the name of Midas occurs ; it is followed by a word which may possibly be a distinctive title ; the first letter of this word is probably not complete ; its form is something like that of F, but (as that letter frequently occurs, the two limbs of which it is formed being constantly at a right angle) it is probably a N; the fifth letter is probably a 11, the P being always differently fonned, These two inscriptions differ considerably in the form of several of the characters, those of No. 1 being, besides, of a thicker or less elongated form than No. 2. No. 3. The last word of this inscription is somewhat indistinct ; it seems to be IPOAN ; the third letter of the second word is probably an A ; it reads as if it were an hexameter verse : in which case the penultimate word would require to be a dissyllable. No. 4. The words of this short inscription are not, like the rest, distinguished by points; it apparently gives us the lambda, or letter L, which does not occur on any of the others. No. 5. This, as well as the two following, furnishes us with instances of the boiislrophedon style of writing ; no doubt the others would have exhibited the same characteristic had they consisted of more than a single line. The words of No. 5 might almost be supposed to correspond with those of No. 1, with the exception of the penultimate, which, in No. 1, is SIKENEMAN, and in No. 5, AKAPAFAZTN. It is singular that these two words suggest the idea of two well-known cities, Sicyon and Agrigentum. No. 6 is inferior in preservation to the other inscriptions, particularly in the second hne, in which the divisions of the words have been probably obliterated. Of No. 7, mention has already been made, when describing the monument from whence it is taken. I have transcribed the words in the order in which it appeared to me they ought to be read. I shall conclude by observing that, in their general style, these inscriptions resemble more those of the ancient Etrurians than any other which have come under my observation. f ■J 1 Plate or Inscriptions. /^•g/^SlUAiAKlo F P/> K K K V AToI ; S o -7 T KTlf$f P ; /I 'fr I-!3J~ ; .A K ^ rb ™ F