PI.AT M A, 
 
 OLYMPIA <S EL 
 
 JOHN SPENCER STlNtOPE, F.R.S 
 
P L A T M A, 
 
 OLYMPIA AND ELIS. 
 
 BY JOHN SPENCER STANHOPE, F. R. S. 
 
 AND CORRESPONDENT OF THE IMPERIAL INSTITUTE OF FRANCE. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THOMAS McLEAN, HAYMARKET. 
 
 MDCCCLXV. 
 
TO THE 
 
 ACADEMY OF INSCRIPTIONS AND BELLES LETTRES 
 
 OF 
 
 THE IMPERIAL INSTITUTE OF FRANCE, 
 
 THIS WORK, 
 
 UNDERTAKEN AT THEIR DESIRE, 
 
 is 
 
 RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 
 
 BY THEIR VERY OBEDIENT AND HUMBLE SERVANT, 
 
 JOHN SPENCER STANHOPE. 
 

 
THE PLAIN OF PLATiEA. 
 
 The plain of Plateea is bounded to the south by mount Elatia; to the north by a low range of hills by which 
 it is separated from the plain of Thebes. It is closed in by mountains to the west, but lies open towards the east. 
 It is watered by two rivers, one of which flows immediately in front of the ruins of a considerable city. Through 
 
 mount Elatia, near the village of Calivia, there is a narrow pass, through which lies the road to Athens. In the middle 
 
 of this pass rises a rocky mountain, on the summit of which stand the remains of a fortress, by which the pass is 
 completely commanded. 
 
 The question between Mons. Gai'l and me is, whether the plain thus described is or is not the plain of Plateea, 
 and the most satisfactory way of determining it appears to be, by comparing the appearance of the plain above- 
 mentioned with the accounts of that plain transmitted to us by the Ancients. Strabo says respecting the position of 
 Plateea:—■“ Plateeee, which the poet has put in the singular number, lies at the foot of Citheeron, between that mountain 
 “and Thebes, near the road leading to Athens and Megara, on the confines of Attica and the Megarid, for Eleuthera 
 “is close by, which some say belongs to Plateere, and others to Bceotia. I have before said that the Asopus flows near 
 “ Platan eg.” Plateeee then was situated immediately under Citheeron, and between that mountain and Thebes. It was 
 near the road leading from Thebes to Athens and Megara, and also near the spot where the territories of these two 
 
 states meet near Eleuthera. It was also near the Asopus. It appears to me that we have already sufficient grounds 
 
 upon which to decide the question. About the position of Athens, there can be no dispute, and as little about that of 
 Thebes, which undoubtedly occupies the site of the ancient Cadmeion, and still retains the name of Thiba. About 
 
 Citheeron there is equally little doubt, as all historians and geographers agree that it was the ancient name of the range 
 
 of mountains now called Elatia. Here then are three points fixed,—Athens, Citheeron, and Thebes. Between Thebes 
 and Citheeron, and not far from the road leading from Thebes to Athens and Megara, the city of Plateea was placed, 
 and accordingly, at the foot of Elatia, on the Theban side, we find the ruins of a city, the extent of which alone is 
 sufficient to authorise us to conclude that they could only belong to so large a city as Plateea. The Asopus also flows 
 through the Plateeid, for such undoubtedly is the river that runs through the plain to the east; I was induced to make 
 this inference from the direction of its waters, but the fact was ascertained beyond all question by Col. Leake, who 
 traced its whole course, from its source to the place where it discharges itself into the ocean. 
 
 Let us now see how far the appearance of this plain coincides with the account given of the plain of Plateea by 
 Herodotus. According to that author, the Athenians entered the plain by the pass of the Three Heads, or the Head 
 of the Oak, and near it they took up their first position. Their second was near the fountain of Gargaphia. They 
 were afterwards dislodged from thence by the operations of the enemy, who filled up the well. “They troubled and 
 “filled up the fountain of Gargaphia, from which the whole Grecian army was supplied with water. The Lacedemonians 
 “ alone were stationed at the fountain; from the other Greeks the fountain was more or less remote, according to their 
 “respective positions; but the Asopus was near.” They determined to take a position in the island of Oeroe. “It is 
 “ distant 10 stadia from the Asopus, and from the fountain of Gargaphia, near which they were then encamped, and is 
 “in front of the city of Plateea.” The army accordingly put itself in motion. The Athenians passed through the 
 
 plain, and the Lacedeemonians over the skirts of mount Citheeron. When the latter arrived at the Moloeis, which 
 
4 
 
 was 10 stadia distant from the position at the fountain, and the same from the temple of Juno, which was in front of 
 the city, they were attacked by the Persians- The principal points to ascertain then are the pass, the fountain of 
 Gargaphia, the Moloeis near which was the temple of Ceres; the city, and the Heraion or temple of Juno. The less 
 important ones are the tomb of Androcrates, the position of Hysias, and the sacred wells. 
 
 I have already observed, that I am far from pretending to give any of these points as established with certainty, 
 but am rather desirous of leaving them to the decision of those more capable of forming a correct judgment of them 
 than myself, and whose opinions would have greater weight with the world; yet, as the more nearly I can shew this 
 
 plain to answer to the description of Herodotus, who has given the fullest account of it of any ancient author with 
 
 whom I am acquainted, the more satisfactorily I shall prove it to be the plain of Plataea, it may not be wholly 
 uninteresting to my readers to know the impression that was made upon me by the actual appearance of the country. 
 Every thing seemed to me to coincide with the details of the historian far beyond my expectations, though it is possible 
 I may in some instances have been led away by my enthusiasm. 
 
 I began my observations from the ruins of the city, as forming the most striking feature in the plain. Near 
 them, to the east, I observed the remains of a Greek church, and as these buildings are frequently constructed on the 
 site of ancient temples, I conjectured that this might occupy that of the Heraion, or temple of Juno. Knowing that 
 
 the Moloeis was 10 stadia distant from Platma, or rather from the Heraion, which was in front of that city, I proceeded 
 
 along the foot of Elatia in an easterly direction, and after having completed that distance as nearly as I could calculate, 
 I arrived at a fountain before which was an ancient slab of marble. From this source flowed a stream into a river, 
 which I will afterwards endeavour to prove to be the Oeroe. Above the fountain, on a height to the east, are the ruins 
 of a Greek church, amidst which some fragments of ancient architecture clearly proved that it had been formed out of 
 the remains of a temple. This might probably be that of the Eleusinian Ceres. Above was a cave which might be 
 the Sphragidion, but it is so small that I scarcely venture to give it that denomination. It corresponds with the 
 position given to it in the Atlas to Anacharsis, but does not entirely answer to the description of Plutarch, who says 
 that the cave of the nymphs Sphragitides was on one of the summits of mount Cithaeron. Pausanias however states 
 that the summit was occupied by an altar, and that the cave of the nymphs Sphragitides was 15 stadia below. Near 
 
 this I observed a square slab of marble, which might probably have belonged to the tomb of Androcrates. From its 
 
 distance from the city, and from its vicinity to the ruins of the temple, I concluded that this stream was the Moloeis. 
 This point being established, I was certain that by advancing 10 stadia further, I ought to find the fountain of 
 Gargaphia. I accordingly continued my researches, and having exceeded that distance, came to the village of Calivia. 
 There I found some wells, near which were some stones, which from their form and size have a just claim to antiquity. 
 
 These were, perhaps, the sacred wells, and if that be admitted, Calivia then occupies the site of Hysise. We had not 
 
 discovered the fountain of Gargaphia, but I felt satisfied that it could not bo far from the village, and accordingly, 
 upon his second visit, Mr. Allason found it lower down in the plain. The only point that now remains to be 
 determined is the island of Oeroe, and I certainly acknowledge not only that I did not find it, but that I believe it 
 is not to be found in the plain here delineated. Most travellers have agreed in the existence of this island. Lord 
 Broughton mentions that he saw the place where the two streams united, but he does not say that he traced them 
 from the point of separation. Even the inhabitants of the plain seem to be so fully persuaded of there being an 
 island, that in answer to my inquiries respecting it, they invariably pointed to a spot in front of Plattea where I 
 searched for it in vain. Whether this opinion of. their’s took its rise from tradition, or what is more probable, from 
 the inquiries of travellers, I cannot pretend to decide; but of this I am convinced, that the island does not exist, 
 
 and if this is admitted, a question arises whether the description of Herodotus of necessity implies that fact. 
 
 But before I enter into this inquiry, it will be necessary to make some observations on the two rivers which 
 
 flow through the plain. From what I understood at Athens, the existence of two rivers had not been generally 
 
 ascertained, and consequently the stream which runs in front of the city had been almost universally taken for the 
 Asopus. We soon found, however, in the prosecution of our researches, that it could not be that river, as it takes 
 a westerly instead of easterly direction, and falls into the Gulph of Lepanto. The Asopus takes its rise further to 
 the east, and flows into the Gulph of the Negropont. I think it is a justifiable conjecture, that the first mentioned 
 river, flowing in front of the city, is that which formed the island. 
 
5 
 
 It is not without considerable hesitation that I venture to give a different construction to a Greek passage 
 from that which appears to have been generally received, but it seems to me that the name of Oeroe has been 
 improperly applied to the island, whereas it belongs to the river by which the island is formed. The words of the 
 historian are as follows; “ It is a sort of island in the continent, formed in the following manner: the river 
 separating above, out of Cithaeron, flows below into the plain, keeping its branches at about the distance of three 
 stadia: it afterwards unites; the name of it is Ociroc :’’ “ vijtrog 3e outco uv e">i ev viiretga tryt^ppoevog o iroru.pt.og utaOt>\x tov 
 
 KiDaigtovog peet xuroi eg to iredlov iieyvv uir uXKrfKm ru peeQgu, otrovireo rglcc trrubiu xul eireirot, trvp/.pt.!tr r /ei eg toivto ovvopoct ie o! ’fhoori.” 
 
 The translators have probably supposed that the iroTapoog designated the Asopus, which could not be the fact, as 
 Herodotus himself states, that the island was 10 stadia from the Asopus, and consequently it could not be formed by 
 that river. The iroru.pt.og mentioned in this passage, therefore, is a distinct river from the Asopus, to which it appears 
 
 to me the ii refers, though it seems to have been supposed to apply to vrjtrog. The name of Oeroe, evidently derived 
 
 from pea and the circumstance of its being designated as the daughter of Asopus, would alone have induced me to 
 
 believe that it was affixed to a river, and not an island; but a passage which almost immediately follows, seems 
 
 decisive of the question: Airtxopoeveov eg tov yupov rovrov tov ie rj Atrcoirig ’Clegotj iregitryl^eTui peovtru ex tov Kifluigavog. The 
 meaning of which passage appears to me, to be, “being come to the place round which the Asopian Oeroe, flowing 
 “from the Cithaeron, (divides itself,) &c.” This in the Latin translation, is rendered, “quinetiam quum ad eum locum 
 “ ubi Asopi filia Oeroe divortio aquarum e Citheerone cingitur.”, Beloe has given it thus: “It was also their intention, 
 “when arrived at the spot where the Asopian Oeroe is formed by the junction of the waters flowing from Cithseron.” 
 Believing that Oeroe was an island, they have forced this passage, in order to give the interpretation which best suited 
 their ideas. The peovtru agreeing with Oeroe, proves, in my opinion, that it must be a river. Mons. Larcher escapes 
 this difficulty, by applying the name of Oeroe in one passage to the island, and in the other to the river. But there 
 is a passage in Pausanias which seems to put the matter out of all doubt. He says, “on the road which leads from 
 “ Platsea to Thebes, you find the river Peroe. They say Asopus had a daughter of this name.” The Peroe and Oeroe 
 are undoubtedly the same river; and since we are not made acquainted in history with the course of the Oeroe, we 
 may naturally conclude, when we find only two principal streams in the plain, that that which is not the Asopus is 
 the Oeroe. 
 
 But to return to the island. It will be unnecessary to quote again the passage by which it is described. My 
 readers will have remarked the words, vrjtrog tie ovtu oiv e'lv\ ev r,iret^a. I do not quite understand what the historian means by 
 “ it is a sort of an island in the continent.” Every island formed by rivers must come under this description. Surely 
 then he would have hardly made an observation so unnecessary; it may be supposed that some other meaning 
 is intended to be conveyed by this expression, if the word ryjZa can be supposed to allow of the rivers separating 
 
 immediately from their sources instead of from the same bed. The stream which I have supposed to be the Moloeis, 
 
 and another which takes also its source near it, on mount Cithseron, would appear to come the nearest to the 
 description of Herodotus. Whether the same stream could be at once the Moloeis and that branch of the Oeroe 
 that formed the island, might admit of some question. In that case, the Spartans, upon their halt at the Moloeis, 
 could not have been far from the position they were to take up in the island, and yet their halting for Anompharetus, 
 scarcely seems to admit of that interpretation. However, what comes strongly in support of the contrary opinion is, 
 that the island and the Moloeis are both described as being 10 stadia from the position at the fountain, and they must 
 necessarily have both been in the direction of the city. I shall leave it to my readers to solve these difficulties, and 
 to determine whether they arise from a misinterpretation of the historian, or from any change in the course of the 
 
 waters. My object is answered in refuting the position of Mons. Gail, and in shewing, from a comparison of the 
 
 actual state of the plain, that in almost every point it accords with the description of Herodotus. Perhaps, however, 
 there is no circumstance which more strongly identifies the plain which I have delineated with that of Platsea, than 
 the pass which the historian has mentioned. He says, the Persian cavalry, ascending from the plain, penetrated 
 Cithseron by the pass, called by the people of the country the Three Heads, and by the Athenians the Head of the 
 
 Oak. Now, the pass which leads to Gifto Castro auswers, in many respects to this description. It is, indeed, one 
 
 of the most remarkable and striking features of the country. I will not take it upon me to say, that there may not 
 
6 
 
 be considerable ravines in other ranges of Cithasron, but it is the only spot in the chain which came under my obser¬ 
 vation as being at all entitled to the epithet of a pass; it occurs at the precise point where the description of Herodotus 
 would lead us to expect it, and what, to my mind, puts the question beyond a doubt; the road that winds through 
 this pass is to this day the only road leading from Thebes to Athens through Eleusis. 
 
 Not to insist upon such of those points a§ have been mentioned merely as conjectures, we have gained the pass 
 and the Oeroe, in addition to our former proofs. We have established every important point except the island; and is 
 the difficulty of finding a spot which answers to this single circumstance in the historian’s narrative, sufficient to induce 
 us to deny that plain to be the plain of Plateea, which in every other particular coincides with the accounts of the ancients 
 with such surprising exactness? Surely not. The position of Thebes, Citheeron, the ruins of the city of Platasa, the 
 Asopus, the Oeroe, the Pass, the remains of Eleuthera, and the concurring testimony of all travellers, establish it 
 beyond contradiction. 
 
 I cannot take leave of the subject without making an observation respecting the fountain of Gargaphia, as it 
 was this point Mons. Gail first attacked. In opposition to the mea nin g given to the word in every lexicon. 
 
 Mons. Gail thought proper to say, that it signified a basin, and not a fountain; and then proceeded to maintain, that 
 the spring to which I have attached the name of Gargaphia, is neither plentiful enough to supply the army with water, 
 nor large enough to permit the cavalry to descend into it. I have already mentioned that I am far from insisting 
 
 dogmatically, that the conjectures I have made are right in every instance, and I am not bound to maintain that the 
 
 fountain is now in the exact state in which it was at the Persian invasion, or though there are now the remains of an 
 ancient casing of stones, that it is the same which was there at the battle of Plataea. I am not aware that it is any 
 
 where mentioned, that the cavalry descended into it, as Mons. Gail seems to imply; but even if they had, that 
 
 would prove nothing with respect to its present appearance, as it was filled up by the Persian army. When I find a 
 spring, corresponding exactly, in point of distance, with the account of the historian, I naturally conclude that it is 
 the source from which the water flowed; but whether or not, it fell into a basin, and what the shape and size of that 
 basin was, I cannot attempt to determine. 
 

 
 
THE CITY OE PLATJEA. 
 
 I have ventured to give a separate plan of the city of Plateea, because it appeared to me highly interesting, 
 as well in an historical point of view, as on account of the actual state of the ruins. I should have subjoined a brief 
 sketch of its history, had I not felt that it would have been presumptuous in me to suppose that I could add any 
 thing to the information of my readers on the subject. It will therefore be merely necessary for me to remind them 
 
 that this city was first destroyed by Xerxes, and a second time by the Thebans after the siege wliich it so heroically 
 
 sustained against the Peloponnesians; that it was rebuilt after the peace of Antalcidas, and again destroyed by the 
 Thebans three years before the battle of Leuctra, and finally was once more restored by Philip after the battle of 
 Chaeronea. The siege of which I have already spoken is undoubtedly the most striking feature in its history, and I 
 may be permitted to hope that my readers will derive additional pleasure from the perusal of the interesting details 
 given of it by Thucydides, with this plan of the city before their eyes. If the walls now remaining are not the 
 ruins of those which sustained the siege, it is at least a reasonable conjecture that they were raised upon the same 
 foundations. In this case, a question may arise whether the interior wall marked in the plan may not be that described 
 by Thucydides as built in the shape of a half moon, and abutting at each end against the walls of the city. The 
 plan of the city is sufficiently minute to render any more particular account of its actual state unnecessary, though 
 the following general observations of Mr. Allason’s on its architecture may not be uninteresting. 
 
 “ The south and west sides of the city of Plateea are defended by deep and rocky ravines, and to the north 
 
 “the ground falls precipitously. The masonry of the walls is of the kind termed iucertum. The walls of the Acropolis 
 
 “ are more regular in their construction than those of the city. The general thickness is from seven to nine feet 
 “ with towers placed at unequal distances, having staircases as shown in the plan. The Acropolis is to the north west, 
 “where the ground is tire most inaccessible. The form of the walls is irregular, and towards the city protected by 
 “ towers. Under the walls towards the west are several broken sarcophagi cut out of the rock.” 
 
 ELEUTHEEA, OENOE, PHTLE. 
 
 Gifto or Egypto-Castro, which I have given as the ancient Eleuthera, is magnificently situated on the summit 
 of a steep and rocky mountain, from which it looks down upon and completely commands the pass of the Dryocephalee. 
 The excellent state of preservation in which it still remains, many of its towers as well as great part of the walls 
 retaining their original height, renders its appearance strikingly beautiful. We found it about one hour’s distance from 
 the entrance of the pass, ten minutes from a fountain on the Bceotian side, which may be that of Antiope, and on the 
 side of Attica ten minutes from the plain in which stands Oenoe. I cannot attempt to give a minute description of 
 the ruins of Gifto-Castro, as at the time I passed it, I had not sufficiently recovered my strength to be able to ascend 
 the mountain upon wliich it stands. I must therefore refer to the plan and view taken of it by Mr. Allason, as well 
 as his description of it, which is as follows. “The circuit of the walls is of considerable extent; their 
 “general thickness is about eight feet; they are of incertum-masonry, and exactly similar in their construction to 
 “ those of Plateea; they are irregular in their form, of different heights, following the inequalities of the ground, and 
 “where accessible, defended by towers, buttresses, &c.” For the reason already mentioned, I was unable to examine 
 the neighbouring country or visit the fortress of Oenoe, which Mr. Allason thus describes. “Close to the mountain 
 “on the eastern side are the remains of a fortress on a slight rising ground, behind wliich flows a rivulet in a narrow 
 “rocky bed. The towers are four in number, they exceed three feet in thickness, having staircases of communication 
 “to the upper chambers. Within the fortress are the remains of a tower 60 feet by 30—it is undoubtedly of great 
 “antiquity, resembling in its appearance the walls of Tyrinth. We saw no ruins of habitations.” He also mentions 
 having perceived several detached towers occupying different heights on the mountain. 
 
 Mr. Allason likewise visited and took a plan of Phyle, which is situated near the village of Casha, and it 
 has a claim to our attention as it is one of the forts which protected Attica on the side of Bceotia. It is described 
 by Mr. Allason in the following words. “ The small fortress of Phyle is built upon a rock accessible only from 
 “ one side, where is the wall forming its principal feature, on its right flanked by a circular tower, and on its left by 
 “ a square one. The walls vary in thickness from 6 to 9 feet, and are constructed in the usual way.” 
 

1PIL&H of ©1WMP0&. 
 
DESCRIPTION OF OLYMPIA. 
 
 The Plain of Olympia is situated on the right bank of the Alpheus, now known by the name of Rufeo, which, 
 from the extent of its bed, and the rapidity of its course, may still be considered one of the finest rivers in Greece. 
 It is of a milky colour; and, during our residence in Olympia, we perceived a considerable diminution in the body 
 of its waters. The banks are steep, and, its course having frequently been changed, its appearance is diversified by 
 several islands covered with shrubs. A chain of mountains, that rise immediately from the southern bank of the 
 Alpheus, terminates the valley in that direction, though the river itself forms the southern boundary of the plain. To 
 the north it is bounded by another chain, in which Mount Saturn (Chronios) appears conspicuous. A conical hill 
 rising near the northern bank, and running almost at right angles with the northern range, may be considered as its 
 eastern boundary; whilst on the opposite side, a river, supposed to be the Cladeus, marks out its western termination. 
 
 The only valley of any importance in the northern range, is that called by M. Fauvel, Andilalo, or the Echo, 
 (perhaps more properly Antilalo), and by others Antilalla: it is a pretty retired vale, the entrance of which is formed 
 by the Chronian mountain; it is watered by the Cladeus, which, however honoured by the ancient Eleans, is but an 
 insignificant rivulet. This valley is cultivated, and the mountains here, as well as throughout Olympia, are clothed 
 
 with magnificent pines, which are striking from the peculiar roundness of their forms. We saw no appearance of the 
 
 village of Andilalo mentioned by Fauvel, unless a mill on the banks of the Cladeus, be all of it that now remains. 
 
 The only village we perceived at Olympia, was that of Miraka, situated on a summit above the plain, to the north¬ 
 
 east, and overlooking a small vale which is beautifully ornamented by a variety of shrubs, and by a stream which flows 
 through a steep and rocky bed to join the Alpheus. 
 
 It is scarcely necessary to look for proofs to establish the identity of this plain with that of Olympia, as it 
 never appears to have been questioned. From Strabo we learn that Olympia was eighty stadia from the temple 
 of Diana Alpheiona, which stood near the mouth of the Alpheus, a distance which the learned editors of the French 
 translation consider as erroneous, and propose the substitution of one hundred and thirty stadia: this does not, 
 
 however, appear to me to correspond so well with the position of the Plain of Miraka, as the distance given by 
 
 Strabo; since, to speak generally, the Cladeus is about three hours, i.e. nine miles from the mouth of the Alpheus. 
 
 Little now remains of what is supposed to have been the Temple of Jupiter, except some of its foundations, 
 
 and fragments, which can only serve to prove that it was of the Doric order; sufficient, however, is not left to 
 establish that its proportions answered to those of the Temple of Jupiter, as described by Pausanias. An excavation 
 
 has been made round the ruins; but the space enclosed is only 125 feet by 60 feet; whereas, the area of the 
 
 Temple of Jupiter was 230 feet by 95 feet. Other travellers have been more fortunate than ourselves. Chandler 
 found a massive capital of the Doric order; and, more recently, both Sir William Gell and Mr. Cockerell saw 
 fragments that appeared to correspond with the proportions assigned by Pausanias to the Temple. The testimony of 
 such travellers cannot but appear to us decisive of this fact. Undoubtedly then, the ruins of the Temple, the 
 junction of the Alpheus with the river supposed to be the Cladeus, as well as the distance of the Plain from the 
 mouth of the former, are sufficient grounds for considering the plain below Miraka, as that in which were celebrated 
 the Olympic Games. 
 
 The ruins actually existing at Olympia are very inconsiderable: with the exception of the Temple, they are 
 all of brick, and of that style of construction which has been usually attributed to the Romans. 
 
 In the valley of Antilalo, near the mill before alluded to, as situated on the banks of the Cladeus, are some 
 
 insignificant ruins. Nearer to the entrance of the valley are the remains of a building constructed with arches. 
 Immediately in front of the entrance is a hill, where M. Fauvel recognised the remains of a theatre. Though I 
 particularly examined this spot, I do not remember to have observed any tiling which could authorise such a 
 conjecture; but I traced the foundation of a small square building. To the south are vestiges of the Temple of 
 Jupiter, and to the south-west of the latter are other ruins, in which arches again occur. In the same direction, and 
 nearer to the Cladeus, some foundations may also be remarked. 
 
 The Plan of Olympia, the principal object of the present publication, was undertaken by desire of the 
 Third Class of the Institute, now the Academy of Inscriptions and Belles Lettres. 
 
'.:o Yit 
 
 v > * ■* v ' * - '-+*y * *d •.<*■• 
 
 ... v. & ‘ 
 
 ..... ... , ..* ••. 
 
 '*• 
 
 ' 
 
 • -1 •’ • '• >• • - - ' • 
 
 !»> •• •■ -• • • * '■ -v- - *•• 
 
 *. ivj? • •« . • ' -W .. 
 
 **\ i *>. • r v. ■ * * 
 
 ... > ,v- .• • ' w.'£ # ti J. W' '<■ '** - ■ * '. *?** *.■' 
 
 - -i " ■ ' •' - • - > • 
 
 V •» - - /• ' ' 
 
 ■ 
 
 . . 
 
 v v • ■ < * - - 
 
 > . - • . v • • , . - ■ • *• 
 
 •f,..% •• . 1 —v ,:.i 
 
 * '•*. - - * + .'.i V » 
 
 • * fc - - ' ' 
 
 P < : i; ■-»* > * *•- *- * •* 4nfi 
 
 • •• - - *-- l i 
 
 • ' 
 
 '4 * V - ■ s 
 
 /...Vi—* m 
 
 A* •• |3 . • • 
 
 -.••• • f - .* ; ... 
 
 ■ . •». . . -V 
 
 - > ; - • • ' • - * 
 
 • . • - ..V- ’ * - • 
 
 • « -r-J f » 
 
 ! : ... * • -v^ 
 
 • •*•**• '• • %• '■ ^ *• <v > • 
 
 . 
 
 s • ' - • • 
 
 • & > V /» r . tV, • -• > .' - . ...|> “3 • ' 
 
 - IV .* - % ' -T •# ■ f x .' • . v-t ... : 
 
 ■ ■ ‘ ■ • • 
 
 <> •• ; V- fr --V . /*'*«» *...■• '■> . . ^ 
 
 «■ • 
 
 > • • ' ‘ 
 
 V * 
 
 « Cf •»- ■ 
 
VIEW IN THE PLAIN OF OLYMPIA. 
 
 No. 2, IN THE PLAN. 
 
 This view is taken from a little valley in the northern range of mountains: it represents the principal part 
 of the Plain of Olympia, including the supposed positions of the Hippodrome, the Alpheus, and the mountains 
 beyond. Perhaps, the pleasure with which I have frequently contemplated the scene itself makes me partial to this 
 view, as here we generally retired during the heat of the day, to repose ourselves from our fatigues by the side 
 of a spring of the clearest water; but to me it appears to represent most happily the tranquil beauty which forms 
 the principal character of the Plain of Olympia. 
 
 VIEW OE THE PLAIN OF OLYMPIA. 
 
 No. 3, IN THE PLAN. 
 
 This view commands the whole length of the Plain of Olympia as it is taken from its eastern extremity; 
 immediately in the fore-ground is the conical hill which has been mentioned as its eastern boundary; on the right is the 
 mountain opposite the village of Miraka, beyond is Mount Saturn. The course of the Alpheus may be traced winding at 
 the foot of the southern range of mountains, the highest point of which, Palaio Phanaro, may be distinguished 
 quite to the left. Having crossed the river in a boat called a monoxyla, we ascended this mountain ; and though we 
 had been led by its name, and the information we had received, to expect some ancient ruins, we saw only a cislern, 
 and a hut inhabited by a shepherd’s family, but observed no traces of the village that existed when Sir W. Gell 
 visited this spot. “ Hence,” says he, speaking of the passage of the river, “ a most dangerous path ascends among 
 pines to the village of Palaio Phanaro, where are twenty-five houses and a tower or pyrgo of Ali Aga, a 
 respectable Turk of Lalla. On the ascent is a fount. The loaded horses, unable to avoid the trees, frequently fall 
 down the declivity towards the river till arrested by other trees. From the summit of the conic mount of Palaio 
 Phanaro is a beautiful view in each direction towards Elis and Arcadia of the course of this river: slight 
 indications of an ancient town or fortress may be discovered.” We were three hours and a half in ascending the 
 mountain from Miraka; we descended by a much more direct course, to the great alarm of our guide, and 
 returned to the octagon in two hours and a half. 
 
 VIEW 
 
 EMBRACING THE SUPPOSED POSITION OF 
 
 THE HIPPODROME. 
 
 My readers will, I feel convinced, require no apology for the insertion of this view, taken from a sketch 
 for which I am indebted to tile kindness of Mr. Thomas Saunders, as it embraces the most important part of the 
 
 Plain; that in which are the ruins of the Temple, and the site of the supposed Hippodrome; and also, as it will 
 
 enable them, by comparing this with Mr. Allason’s views, to form a correct opinion of their general accuracy. 
 
 In front, the line of the bank forming part of the supposed Hippodrome may be distinguished, though 
 
 partially concealed by the shrubs in the fore-ground, and appearing straigliter than it really is; immediately before 
 us are the ruins of the Temple; to the right those marked C, (vide plans); still farther, the Cladeus, apparently 
 falling into the Alpheus, though as may be seen by the plan, the junction does not so immediately take place; 
 beydnd the Alpheus, here in its full expanse, is the southern range of mountains, including the highest summit, 
 Palaio Phanaro, of which we have already spoken. 
 
• $ ? Jg| 
 
 fi . •■* «• --f. *■ - • ■ 
 
 ' 
 
 •* : ■>*■ 
 
 'A • t 
 
 ■ w •* ■" i ■ V* 9 
 
 : ' ‘ ■ * j l£*/ 
 
 >W. "t .. • 
 
 * * •*■ 
 
 
 
 ,1 . i r • 
 
 .. . ..-.V f 
 
 • ' ' *• u 
 
 . • * •••f •’ V 
 
 • - ®- ..••• ■ * *V W*.. 
 
 - • * »- V t■ »•'> 
 
 *•> ;.r 
 
 • '■ 
 
 • V „«,» .Vl, >.-• ... 
 
 
 j : 
 
 Vri: ■: 
 
 
 
 Vv 
 
 
 
 . v 
 
 ' 
 
 ••••*• * *->• ’ * : • 
 
 * ' " ■- 
 
 * '» ■ ' ' V t * 
 
 :i : ' *■ ’»< t- - ... . x < . 
 
 ■' " ■* ’< '- A * •*• • 
 
 *• T - " 
 
 "* ■- 
 
 •-V V ' . -• 
 
 • '*• *. - .* •<*•/» 
 " t -. 
 
 
 , 
 
 
PLANS OP THE BITINS 
 
 The buildings at Olympia are, in general, in too ruinous a state to admit either of much description, or of 
 
 conjecture as to the object for which they were constructed. I shall, therefore, merely lay before my readers the 
 
 following general observations made upon them by Mr. Allason. 
 
 “DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAN, AND ELEVATION, DISTINGUISHED 
 BY THE LETTER A. 
 
 “ This building, with all the other ancient ruins in the Plain of Olympia, is constructed with brick-work : very 
 little remains to explain its original form and destination. It is situated on the eastern bank of the Cladeus, a little 
 advanced within the valley of Antilalo. A wall sixteen feet high, supporting the bank of the river, forms its 
 principal feature; from this are projected two cross walls, making a chamber of 28 feet 9 inches in length, by 
 26 feet 6 inches in width, in one part, and 13 feet 2 inches in another; in the widest part of this chamber there 
 is a circular recess. There are also the remains of a square niche in the wall supporting the bank, and which 
 probably contained a statue. Every part of this building has been enclosed with arches, and to all appearance it 
 
 has been of considerable extent, as fragments of walls are found for some distance; and on the Plain above we 
 
 traced some considerable foundations. The walls are constructed with brick on both sides, of a single thickness, the 
 inside filled up with large round pebbles, and grouted with mortar. The size of these bricks is 9£ inches square 
 by 1| inches thick, and with mortar 2\ inches in thickness; half bricks 9f inches by 5J and 1§ inches thick. 
 The building marked by the letter B presents an area of 16 feet 5 inches square within the walls; it appears to 
 
 have been part of a larger edifice; it has been domed, and all its openings arched. It is situated immediately in 
 
 the entrance of the valley of Antilalo. 
 
 “The ruin marked by the letter C offers little more than the remains of two longitudinal walls, which have 
 been enclosed with an arch: it is remarkable, that all these ruins have small square apertures, pierced obliquely 
 through the walls: they appear to have been introduced for the purpose of ventilation. 
 
 “ The last ruin represented in this plate shows the remains of a wall of a similar construction to the others. 
 
 It is situated towards the eastern vicinity of the Plain, on the banks of the rivulet running through the valley 
 
 of Miraka.” 
 
 KIJIN D. 
 
 This building is that which M. Fauvel supposed to be the stable for the cars, but which M. de Choiseul 
 has declared to be the remains of the Aphesis, or barrier. 
 
 YIEW OE THE YALLEY OF ANTILALO. 
 
 No. 1, IN THE PLAN. 
 
 This view represents the valley of Antilalo, or Antilalla, for to which name it has the better title I am not 
 prepared to determine: the first derives its claim from the celebrated echo of Olympia, and is therefore most 
 gratifying to the classical ear; the latter from the town of Lalla, which is, however, at two hours distance from 
 Olympia. When .on the spot I was not aware of any doubts as to the pronunciation of its name, and did not, 
 therefore, take the pains I should otherwise have done to ascertain this point. 
 
 If the mountain to the right immediately at the entrance be, as has been conjectured, Mount Saturn, then 
 indeed must this valley have formed one of the most interesting parts of Olympia, and must have been the site of 
 many of the most splendid of its public buildings: it either formed part of the Altis, or immediately adjoined that 
 consecrated grove. Two of the few remaining ruins at Olympia may be perceived in this view; to the left, that 
 marked A (vide Plans of Ruins); to the right, and near Mount Saturn, the ruin marked B. 
 
 The Cladeus flows at the foot of the mountain to the left, but is not visible from the depth of its banks. 
 The valley itself is extremely fertile, and the beautiful pines that cover the sides of the mountains render the 
 scenery highly picturesque. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

< 
 
 . 
 
 
THE COURSE OF THE ALPHEUS, 
 
 AS SEEN FROM THE RUINS OF PALAIO ECCLESIA. 
 
 Tills view is taken from the ruins of a Greek church, now called Palaio Eeclesia, or the ancient church, 
 and evidently occupying tile site of a temple, as part of the peribolos still remains; they are situated below a large 
 mass of rock which forms the summit of an elevated mountain, and occupy an area of 85 feet by 25 feet; they 
 are rather less than an hours distance from Miraka to the north-east, and command an extensive view of the vale 
 of the Alpheus, including Olympia. 
 
 The fabulous history of this river renders it an object of such peculiar interest, that I need not apologize 
 to my readers for laying before them a view which gives a representation of a considerable part of its course, as 
 well as its junction with the sea. I had subsequently an opportunity of visiting the mouth of the Alpheus; it 
 bore the appearance of a considerable river; six poloccas and a large Zautiote vessel were at anchor. A shallow 
 bay is formed on its northern side by a bank of sand, which may be perceived in this view: the surf was then 
 high, and the waves came rolling over the more tranquil waters of the Alpheus, so that they were not in the 
 slightest degree visible after their junction. It is however possible that, in a calm sea, the milky colour of the 
 river may be distinguished for a certain distance, and have thus partly given rise to its poetical history. 
 
 PLAN OF THE SITE OF ELIS. 
 
 As far as we can conjecture from the trifling remains that serve now to point out the site of Elis, that city 
 was bounded to the north by the Peneus, now called Potami tou Gastourti, or the river of Gastouni: to the south 
 it was terminated by a range of hills; to the east on the summit of a conical hill, stand the ruins of the 
 Acropolis; and to the west, it was partly closed in by some low hills branching off towards the Peneus. In the 
 Acropolis are the foundations of an ancient building, and of a tower, probably constructed by the Venetians, from 
 which the name of Calloscopo appears to have been given to the Acropolis. 
 
 Considerable remains of brick buildings are scattered in the plain below. I have given plans of all those of 
 which the forms could be at all determined. We saw a subterraneous passage, which, according to our guide, 
 communicated with the citadel. On the banks of the Peneus, and a little below the surface of the ground, we 
 perceived foundations composed of large stones laid in regular courses, but without cement. 
 
 Two modern villages have risen on the site of the ancient city. Palaiopoli, which derives its name from the 
 ruins, stands near the foot of the hill on which are the remains of the Acropolis. Calivia, or Kalybia, the name 
 by which the other is at present designated, and which signifying a collection of huts, is frequently employed to 
 distinguish those villages that have no other denomination, is situated towards the western extremity of the plain. 
 Both of these villages are inhabited by Greeks, and in both are found fragments of architecture. During our stay 
 here, the inhabitants of Calivia were occupied in digging a ditch across the plain. I was in hopes that this 
 might have led to the discovery of some ancient remains; but in this expectation I was disappointed. That part 
 of the plain represented in the plan offered the appearance of one continued eSTn-field, and seemed fully to justify 
 the character of fertility for which the Plain of Elis was formerly so celebrated. I shall not take up the time of 
 my readers with any observations on the Temples and Porticos which anciently embellished this city, as I could 
 discover no traces of them, nor in any way ascertain their positions; nor shall I dwell upon the singular privilege 
 which rendered it, as the guardian of Olympia, one of the most distinguished cities in Greece. Those who wish 
 to know what Elis was in her days of splendour, are referred to the pages of Pausanias: my object is 
 accomplished, if I have at all succeeded in representing to them what Elis now is. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
]PJLA£T ©if ttisue JKHJE5TS-®!F BS-EtllS 
 

 ■ JM—^WIIU-^ 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 V. V 
 
 
 .* 
 
wmmmm 
 
(sfc ' 5 
 
 gp 
 
 ' (0 ) 
 
I have been favoured by Colonel Leake with extracts from his Journal, containing the routes from Pyrgo to 
 Olympia, and from Palaiopoli to the sources of the Erymanthus near Dhiori. Such materials, from the pen of so 
 distinguished and accurate a geographer, are too valuable to render any apology necessary on my part .for their 
 insertion. To him, likewise, I am indebted for the geographical sketch of Elis, inserted in a former part of this 
 work. 
 
 FROM PYRGO TO OLYMPIA. 
 
 “ The road from Pyrgo to Olympia leads for about half a mile along the same track as that to Arkadhia, 
 and then turns to the left to the hills. It enters the valley of the Alpheius at the end of three and a half miles, 
 
 and then passes for another mile and a half close at the foot of the northern hills, which are well clothed with 
 
 pines, as well, as the range on the opposite side of the river. The valley is from a mile to half a mile in 
 breadth, and at the end of two miles is narrowed by a projection of the northern hills; opposite to which, on 
 the side of the southern range, is the village of Volanza. It then suddenly expands into a large valley of equal 
 dimensions every way, and surrounded by pine-clad hills. In this valley, at the end of two hours from Pyrgo, we 
 
 crossed the river of Lestenitza, a large stream running south to join the Alpheius. On the left, on the summit of 
 
 a hill, is a chiflek of Mustafa Aga of Lalla, called Schrefi: from hence, the plain is four miles across to the 
 
 village of Vloka, which is a small place situated on the side of a range of hills, which shut up the valley on 
 
 this side, and leave only space sufficient for the passage of the Alpheius between them and the range which follows 
 the left bank of the river, westward towards the sea, terminating in a point, near which is situated Volanza. This 
 pass of the Alpheius, through which is. the passage of the river from the valley of Olympia into that of Schrefi, 
 is extremely beautiful, both from the romantic variety of the rugged ground as well as from the admirable dis¬ 
 position of the pine-woods in copses and clusters, with the noble Alpheius running through the midst of them. 
 
 “The direct road to Olympia passes through Vloka, and over the hills, on the top of which are the huts 
 called the village of Druova, from whence it descends by a fountain into the vale of the Cladeus, which stream it 
 
 crosses at a mill where are some Roman remains, and there falls into the road from Miraka to Lalla. It is four 
 
 short hours from Pyrgo to Olympia.” 
 
 FROM PALEOPOLI TO DHIORI. 
 
 "February 26, I left Paleopoli (the village in the ruins of Elis) at 3 p.m. on the road to Tnpolitza, 
 
 passing throngh a narrow vale in the hills of Elis. At 3-38, cross a brool, which comes from the right and 
 
 joins the Peueius a little above the ruins of Elis. At -4-7, the village of Pazaiti is on the right, beautifully 
 situated on the slope of' the pine-covered hills. At 4-22, cross a small stream deep and sluggish, flowing to join 
 the Peneius near the village of Aghios Elias. Immediately afterwards, the village of Lykhvitza is on the 
 height upon our left. At 4-50, cross a small stream shaded with planes, which comes from a narrow woody 
 vale on our right. The scenery of the vale and of the rugged pine-clad hills which border it is equal m beauty 
 to any in the neighbourhood of Olympia. These forests of pines and rugged forms of hills extend all the way 
 to Pyrgo, Agoulenitza, and Lalla. At 5—3, the village of Koulogli is half a mile on our left, on the bank of 
 the Peneius. These are all small villages, with its Pyrgos to each; they belong to the Turks of Gasthoum or 
 
 Lalla. At 5—15, pass at the foot of a height, on the summit of which are the remains of massy walls built of 
 
 small stones and mortar. A small plain cultivated with calampokki, lies between this hill and a river coming from 
 the right. At 5-27, we cross this river, probably the Ladon of Elis, (a totally distant stream from the Arcadian 
 Ladon, which joins the Alpheius a little beyond the mouth of the Erymanthus,) where, on the edge of the bank, 
 is a piece of Roman ruin, like those at Paleopoli, and proceeded to lodge for the night at Hadgidhes, situated on 
 
. 
 
,he right bank of the river opposite to Koulogli. This river joins the Peneins a mile and a half below Hadgidi.es 
 at the foot of a point, upon which stands the hamlet of Agrapidho Khorio.-February 27, leave Hadgidhes at 
 8-20, and soon after enter the vale of a stream shaded with planes, which joins the river of Hadgidhes a little 
 above that village. Follow op this valley, and at 8-50, pass nnder the village of Simopnlo, which is on onr left. 
 On the right of the road at the same place is a single column of coarse marble, surrounded with excavations, 
 from whence the Turks of Lalla have been taking stones for building as they have done at Olympia. Follow up 
 
 the valley, and enter a forest of birches, oaks, wild pears, planes. At 9-40, arrive at the summit of the ascent- 
 
 magnifieent view of Olonos, Vodhia, and the mountains of Roumeli: this lofty ridge descends to the banks of the 
 Alpheius; to our left it is connected with the great steeps of Mount Olonos: before us are the wooded heights 
 towards Lalla, which are intersected by several streams uniting to form the Ladon or river of Hadgidhes. At 
 eleven o'clock, still proceeding through the forest, we have Kakotari on the left, at the foot of the great gorge of 
 Mount Olonos, from which issues the Peneins. Continuing to ascend, and crossing several rivulets running to join 
 
 the Ladon, I halt at one of tire last of the tributary streams of the Ladon, at a place which is not more than 
 
 two miles in direct distance from the left bank of the Eiymauthus, but at a great height above it. From this spot 
 I continue ascending, turning more to the north, and in an hour arrive at Dhiori, a large town in a lofty situation 
 upon Mount Olonos, near the sources of one of the tributary streams of the Erymanthus.”* 
 
 * Colonel Leake’s Journal. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 
 
RUINS OP ELIS. 
 
 My readers will be able to form a much more correct idea of the state of the ruins of Elis from an 
 inspection of the plans, than they can from any description. Though, upon the whole, considerable remains may be 
 traced, they are in general in too ruinous a state to be objects of much interest. I shall therefore content myself 
 with following the course that I have done with respect to those of Olympia, and lay before my readers 
 Mr. Allason’s observations upon them. 
 
 MR. ALLASON’S REPORT. 
 
 RUINS OF ELIS. 
 
 “No. 1. This ruin is situate north-west of the Acropolis, and, from wliat remains of it, appears to have 
 
 formed the entrance of an extensive building; this, as well as all the other ruins in the Plain of Elis, is 
 
 constructed with brick of the same description as that which was used at Olympia: the walls have small square 
 perforations, probably for ventilation. 
 
 “No. 2 is a pedestal 18 feet square, and it probably supported an equestrian statue or a colossal group of 
 
 figures. It is now only six feet above the soil. 
 
 “No. 3 appears to have formed the entrance to another building. 
 
 “ No. 4, a pedestal 14 feet 10 inches square. 
 
 “ Nos. 5 and 6 are foundations due west of the Acropolis, and are evidently the remains of dwellings. The 
 chambers are of moderate extent, having doors of communication; but little of the walls now remain above ground. 
 
 “No. 7. This ruin is the most striking and perfect of all. those in the Plain of Elis; it principally consists 
 of an octagonal chamber, 21 feet 9 inches in diameter, having four large openings or door-ways ; the remaining four 
 sides are ornamented with circular niches. This part of the building has been domed, and appears to have been 
 of considerable extent. 
 
 “Nos. 8 and 9 are the ruins of habitations; little more now remains than their foundations. 
 
 “No. 10. This ruin presents a very picturesque outline; it is situate in the middle of the plain, and has 
 several masses, some of them 20 feet high. 
 
 “No. 11. This ruin appears to have been of considerable extent; several of its parts are perfect, from 
 which it seems to have been finished with great care. 
 
 “Nos. 12, 13, 14. Of these little can be traced but the foundations.” 
 
 SITE OE ELIS. 
 
 This view, which is taken from the village of Palaiopoli, contains the principal ruins of Elis; and if it 
 does not give so minute a delineation of the plain in which they stand as does the Plan of Elis, it represents it 
 in a more agreeable manner, and conveys a better idea of the general appearance of the place. To the right, 
 above the village, rises the hill on which stood the Acropolis; and below, the Peneus may be seen winding 
 through the plain: beyond appears a line of hills; and still further, the coast, the sea, and the island of 
 Cephalonia. Immediately in front we have the principal ruins, the village of Calivia rising amidst the trees; a low 
 range of hills, which have been spoken of as the termination of the plain to the west; beyond a higher range, 
 the sea, and the island of Zante. To the left, are the hills described as the southern boundary; but, between 
 which and the western range, the plain connects itself with the greater Plain of Elis. 
 
 THE UNPUBLISHED COINS OE ELIS, 
 
 FROM THE COLLECTION OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM, AND THE LATE MR. PAYNE KNIGHT.