m 
 
 9*1 
 
 MD: 
 

 
 
 ^> ->>;> X» >3 3X» >>3> .3 D i ;>?*s> > i»> ^->» ;» n>>> 
 
 -> » )1> >>V>T3> !V» 'i» >»> > ~~» "S> J > >.>>X>- ) J>1>» 
 
 ,-> » i>x» >i> ;>y» -^ i 2> i >»5>o .3 > >> ■ !>"2>^2 
 
 K>» ^>" !) >>J>0 3> S»^) 1> 2D -.'T> > )>3J >j»>3> 3> > '- 
 ^> 1X>> ^D 1» >">) T> ^ Ol»» ^■^2^. U O 
 
 >. 3^ >J>> 3 1> _>? ^3> ,.L> 5 >2>D1 ±>>r&y y» , 1 
 
 ^ J3 l)X>^> ^^>H»7l>^"J>lD ")3»13> 3.'-- 
 
 -..o »,^ '.^J65> ->-^o 5>3>o .-sbtb,,,^ ,^ > - 
 
 > ;' 
 
 J>^J£>4>'^_X>>>^> > >. > ;;»3>3 >^. »> 
 
 j- ,*?■■•■ -> 
 
 ^ > ? 
 
 J J> •. t»J&^ * . ;) 
 
 ;^.l.^ ;)^> > .■ >■ J; ) 
 
 ^ • "^r J' } ; V^ 
 
 J> J/J3X. 1 - 
 
 » 
 
 3f^S 
 
 ■J!>>)3J 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3» >JJJB> ^.. ';„, V 
 
 ::?*■ ^ 
 
 ^..3>_> 
 
 ^ ^> 1)3 > j» > \^» ^ ^^^^.^a 
 
 -> 3 -^ "i5> j> ■ J*> -:j II* :> ' ■ ,: X>^ ^ _ 
 
 > . ^ ^> >'»j d 5> ■ > sxsa 
 
 -;^k>3> j> ^-> 3 ;> ■■.-."> s> > '^»^> >;>-> , 
 
 "'^^Z> >J>^^3 ' .'-33 -> -> 2>33 02> 
 
 >^3 .>-->.^ ■>':"»-»--' >_^? -x»^ :^> ■> 
 ^S^> 0k>>3 3^>:> j ■ ^©» ^> 
 
 >■■ .' ^D- X»3 : 3«>~ ; '^>v^C 
 
 :0) ^•a*-s» 
 
 
 
 JjB> »~jL> :, ■p'jJXr- >^>^ 
 
 
 
 
y'A/- 
 
Our Homrs 
 
 AND 
 
 HEIR ADORNMENTS; 
 
 OR, 
 
 If ow to JSuild, finish, furnish, and jtdorn a !f ome, 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE BUILDING OF HOMES, INTERIOR DECORATION, 
 WOOD CARVING, SOROLL SAWING, HOUSE PAINTING, WINDOW HANGINGS, 
 SCREENS, CURTAINS, WINDOW GARDENING, INCIDENTAL DECORA- 
 TIONS, DECORATIVE-ART NEEDLE-WORK, AND ECONOMIC 
 LANDSCAPE GARDENING; TO WHICH IS ADDED A 
 HOUSEHOLD COMPENDIUM OF NEW, PRAC- 
 TICAL AND VALUABLE RECIPES, 
 
 THE WHOLE BEING DESIGNED TO MAKE 
 
 *1aht W omes foe. Happy 
 
 By ALMON C. VARNEY, 
 
 Supervising Architect, etc., Detroit, Mich., 
 
 ASSISTED BY THE FOLLOWING CORPS OP SPECIAL CONTRIBUTORS : 
 
 JOHN H. YOUNG, Author of "Our Deportment," etc,; Mrs. J. M. S. HOLDEN, Author 
 of Interior Decoration ; CHAS. E. BENTLEY, Author of Decorative Needle- 
 work; WILLIAM BOYDELL, Author of House Painting; JOHN 
 SWIFT, M. S., Late Professor of Horticulture and Land- 
 scape Gardening, Maine Agricultural College. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 J. C. CHILTON & CO., Publishers, 
 
 DETROIT. MICHIGAN. 
 
$ft 
 
 «•'•■ 
 
 t^^7 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in thB year 1BB2, 
 
 <Ks=*By J, C, CHILTDN, *s=h> 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, 
 
 We 
 
 .^7 
 
 <ls 
 
2 ESfc^i 3* 
 
 -i ■+-►- 
 
 TO THE 
 
 *&•" 
 
 mBflfiKBfflWBb 
 
 ®- 
 
 People of America. 
 
 &j rn&< 
 
 ~©> 
 
 [HI] 
 

 
 [N submitting this work to the public, the Publishers 
 think it not amiss to state that the contents have been 
 j, carefully criticised and reviewed by competent and 
 %pp>|)s conscientious critics. 
 
 To the authors of the various departments much 
 credit is due for the successful manner in which they 
 ' have treated the topics assigned them. 
 For other favors and information not otherwise available 
 special thanks are due — 
 
 To Mr. Chas. E. Bentley, Designer and Manufacturer of 
 Decorative Art Needle-Work, New York; Messrs. Phillips & 
 Hunt, Publishers of the "People's Cyclopedia," New York:; 
 The American Encaustic Tiling Co., New York; Messrs. 
 Warren, Puller & Co., Manufacturers of Artistic W all- 
 Papers, New York; E. T. Barnum, Manufacturer of Crest- 
 ings, etc., Detroit; Messrs. Mills & Barker, Artistic Furni- 
 ture, Detroit; A. H. Shipman, Fret-Saw Manufacturer, 
 Rochester, New York. 
 
 The Publishers take no small degree of pride in present- 
 ing a work which furnishes so many valuable suggestions on 
 the subject of Our Homes and Their Adornments, and they 
 can but wish that it will greatly assist in making many 
 HAPPY HOMES FOR HAPPY PEOPLE. 
 [It] 
 

 .^> 
 
 i'/ > 
 
 B^^^^^j^^g-S" 
 
 HAT grand old Saxon word, HOME, has for ages 
 hold a peerless place wherever the English lan- 
 guage is spoken. And thus do we find it, under 
 every zone, embalmed in song, cherished in the 
 memory, and enshrined in the heart! 
 
 Too much, therefore, can scarcely be said on 
 such a theme, nor too devoted a service rendered to such a 
 cause. And knowing as we do how largely, in this country, 
 Home Life influences both the individual and the State, we 
 come to present the offering of Our Tribute in the imperish- 
 able form of a book, for the acceptance and appreciation of 
 a Home-loving people! 
 
 The object of this, our labor, is to link — as in a marriage 
 He — this venerable and comprehensive word "home" with 
 that other word of classic mold, but of modern application, — 
 "adornment." And with the whole-hearted enthusiasm of 
 "match-makers, 1 " we sincerely hope and believe that they 
 will be found to be not "unequally yoked." 
 
 [v] 
 
v i FEE FACE. 
 
 We are of the opinion that no attempt at " an alliance' 1 '' of 
 this nature has ever before been so wisely planned and bo 
 successfully consummated. It only remains, therefore, for 
 us to bid a universal welcome to the Bridal! 
 
 The homes of the past have been as redolent of virtue 
 and affection as can be claimed for those of our own day; 
 but the age has advanced in all those accessories which give 
 to modern life its charm, and for a " Home " now to be 
 without "ts " Adornments," would be a return to a primitive 
 condition that would ill accord with the scale and quality 
 of social existence everywhere around us. 
 
 The volume here presented comprehends and supplies, 
 in its completeness, this felt need eminently more than any 
 hitherto offered to the public. The departments it covers 
 embrace the whole domain of " Home and its Adornments," 
 from the most enlightened, cultivated, and reliable sources 
 possible. 
 
 Under the firm belief that " a thing of beauty is a joy 
 forever," we have reason to expect that our Home Life will 
 become radiated with a brighter glow, from the Alliance of 
 Adornment with Domesticity ; while the influence of such 
 elements, acting as a Kindergarten, will daily and hourly 
 impress on both young and old its H Object- Lessons " of in- 
 struction with ever softening and refining influences. 
 
 Economy, which holds so prominent a place in our mod- 
 ern household administration, finds a most signal recognition 
 in the work here presented. Eecipes of great practical value, 
 are lavishly scattered among its pages; while the Useful, as 
 well as the Ornamental, has in each Department received the 
 most particular attention. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 vii 
 
 "The least said, the soonest mended," is a well-known 
 proverb; and though we have no reason to fear " a break- 
 age " among any of the numerous articles for use or orna- 
 ment cabineted within the binding of this volume, yet we 
 would on no account exhaust the reader's patience with 
 a long Preface. Every new venture expects the favoring 
 breeze of popularity to carry it safely into port. And if our 
 numerous friends will only be kind enough to judge of this 
 work by its merits, we shall then have no fear for the results. 
 
 THE PUBLISHEES. 
 
 ^ t 
 
-^sa^^fe-pM— 
 
 e,©KTEiK / r©. 
 
 -^ — »-ii— •> 
 
 PART ONE. 
 
 ^tantiinq, ffiedvnf, and ZFini&fiinft cfrConwb. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 General Considerations. — Ideal Homes. — Renting and Pur- 
 chasing. — Contracting the Work. — Paying for Homes 
 Gradually - 25 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 How to Plan a House. — Hints as to How to Proceed. — 
 Kinds of Lumber to Use. — Suggestions Worth Noting. 
 — Painting 30 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Ornamentation. — Appearance of a House. — Secret of At- 
 tractive Buildings. — The Place to Put Ornaments. — 
 Little Expense with Good Results. — The Front En- 
 trance. — Portico. — Beauty of Outline. — Cornice. — 
 
 Gable 36 
 
 [viii] 
 
CONTENTS. i x 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Buildings of "Wood, their Economy. — Kinds of Wood to 
 Use. — Erecting the Building. — Direction Therefor. — 
 Rendering Wooden Buildings "Warm. — Back Plaster- 
 ing. — How to Make a "Wooden Dwelling Nearly Fire- 
 Proof 39 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Durable Floors. — A Better Plan for Floors Suggested. — 
 Open Joints and How to Prevent Them. — Inside Fin- 
 ish. — The Best Woods and How to Use Them. — Pre- 
 vention of Swelling in Lumber 45 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Staircases. — Directions for Buildings — New Style of Ban- 
 isters. — Bear Staircase. — Hard Woods. — Black- Wal- 
 nut. — How to Finish a House in Hard Wood. — 
 Veneering Hard Woods 51 
 
 *© 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Something more Durable. — Brick and Stone Houses. — 
 Their Cost. — Veneer Brick and Stone Work. — How 
 to Prevent Brick Walls from Sweating. — Stone Trim- 
 mings for Brick Houses 57 
 
 *s 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Valuable Suggestions and Rules. — Methods of Estimating 
 Work and Material. — How to Find the Amount of 
 Lumber Necessary to Erect a Given Building. — Prices 
 of Labor . 61 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 House Painting. — Its Philosophy. — Best Time to Paint. — 
 Kinds of Paint. — Colors. — Mixing. — Oils and Driers. — 
 
 Applying Paints. — Priming. — Second Coat. — Finishing 
 Coat. — Brushes. — General Suggestions. — Inside Paint- 
 ing. — Varnishing. — Graining. — Graining Tools. — The 
 Ground. — Graining Colors. — Oil-Finish 65 
 
 e> 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Descriptions and Specifications Continued. — Lathing and 
 Plastering. — Carpenter Work. — Tin Roofs. — Crestings 
 and Finials. — Doors, Windows, Blinds, and Shutters. — 
 Inside Finish. — Main Room and Kitchen. — Plumbing. 
 — Glazing. — Storm Doors 76 
 
 *s 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Heating and Ventilation. — Open Fire-Places. — Grates and 
 Furnaces — Steam Heating. — How to Ventilate. — Im- 
 pure Air. — Nature's Disinfectants 91 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Situation and Surroundings. — Selecting a Healthy Site. — 
 How to Secure Good Drainage. — Pure Water. — Danger 
 from Stagnant Pools. — How a House Should Front. — 
 Sunshine. — Its Value. — Shade Trees 97 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Primitive House. — Our Noble Ancestors. — Modern 
 Residences. — How to Build a House and Make Addi- 
 tions to It. — A Simple Cottage. — Design I. (5 illustra- 
 tions.) 102 
 
CONTENTS. xj 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 An Attractive Cottage Home for People with Small Means. 
 — How Constructed. — The Cost. — How to Paint It. — 
 Design II. (2 illustrations. ) \ Ill 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 A Neat, Symmetrical Story-and-a-half House at Moderate 
 Cost. — Description of Its Arrangement. — Its Advan- 
 tages over a One-story House. — Some Novel Features. 
 — Design III. (3 illustrations). — Design IV. (2 il- 
 lustrations.) 115 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Story-and-a-half houses Continued. — A House that Will 
 Admit Sunlight to Every Room. — Appearance Made 
 Subordinate to Arrangement of Rooms. — An Excellent 
 Floor Plan. — Design V (2 illustrations) 125 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 A Rural Cottage Home. — A Plan that Combines Convenience 
 and Beauty. — Simple Adornments that Add to Comfort. 
 — Perspective View of a Picturesque Gothic House. — 
 Design VI. (2 illustrations) — Design VII. (with il- 
 lustration.) ;. 128 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 More Durable Material. — A Solid Gothic House. — Style, 
 not New but Popular. — Description of the Plans — Cost 
 of Erection. — Design VIII. (3 illustrations.) — Exten- 
 sive Farm Residence and Bam. — Design IX. (2 illus- 
 trations.) 132 
 
x ii CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 An Elegant Brick Residence. — Comfort and Beauty Com- 
 bined. — Description of Plan, Materials, and Construc- 
 tion. — Design X. (2 illustrations.) — A Modern Villa. 
 — Design XL (with illustration.) 138 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 How to Build a Summer Cottage. — Cheap, but Attractive 
 Houses in the Hot Season. — How to Build a Rustic 
 Arbor. — A Few Suggestions on Beautifying the Sur- 
 roundings with Little Expense 143 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Alterations and Additions. — Old Houses Made New. — 
 Caution. — Improving Roofs and Gables. — Remodeling 
 Windows _ 149 
 
 CHAPTER XXn. 
 
 Outhouses. — Some Practical Suggestions. — How to Have Ice 
 all the Summer. — An Ice-House Preservatory. — Plan 
 for a Cheap but Excellent Farm and Carriage Barn 157 
 
 PART TWO. 
 
 ctfwm fftnftfoytmnfo fol Voun^ and (DM. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 A Manual of Fret Sawing. — Practical Lessons with Illus- 
 trations. — Finishing up the Work. — Use of Saws. — 
 
CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 Sawing Metals. — Useful Articles. — Saws and their 
 Prices 165 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 The Art of Wood Carving. — Its Origin and History. — The 
 Tools and their Uses. — Ornaments that May be Made. 
 — How Amateurs May Learn the Art. — Directions for 
 First Attempts. — A Study of Nature Necessary in 
 order to Appreciate the Art in Wood Carving 177 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Landscape Gardening. — General Rules and Observations 
 Applicable to the Improvement of Small Lots from 
 One-Sixteenth to One-Half Acre in Area. — Errors of 
 Common Occurrence. — Style of Gardening. — Exposure 
 and Location. — Grading and Terracing 183 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Special Features. — Drives and Walks. — Varieties of Shrubs, 
 Trees, and Flowers to Use. — Laying out and Making 
 Walks and Drives. — Easy Methods of Laying out 
 Drives. — Grouping and Planting 193 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Tree Planting. — The Best Time to Plant. — How to Plant. — 
 Removing and Planting Large Trees. — How to Select. 
 — A Good List. — Care of Trees and Success in their 
 Culture. — Fences. — Kinds and their Style. — How to 
 Make them Ornamental - - 202 
 
xiv bONTENHS. 
 
 PART THRBB. 
 
 Jntetwi dctotation, ol -How to Jffafo out ztfomte 
 
 zBwutifuf. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 •Interior Decoration. — General Considerations. — Objects 
 Aimed at, and Extent of Decoration. — How to Beau- 
 tify Walls and Ceilings. — Wall-Papers. — How to Select 
 the Best 213 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 'Hints on the Choice of Papers. — What Shades to Select. 
 — Harmony of Colors. — Selecting Paper for Different 
 Rooms.— The Dado 219 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 flow to Hang Wall-Papers. — Simple Instructions for Every- 
 body. — Sizing the Walls. — Amount of Paper in a Roll. 
 — How to Cut and Match the Paper. — Paste for Wall- 
 Paper 226 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Recent Improvements in Needle- Work. — Usefulness now a 
 Prominent Feature. — List and Description of Materi- 
 als. — Prices.— Bead Work 230 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Embroidery Stitches. — Descriptions of the Best Stem Stitch. 
 — Blanket Stitch. — Chain Stitches. — Herring-Bone, But- 
 ton-Hole, and Satin Stitch. — Kensington Outline. — 
 Janina. — Blanket. — Designs for Borders and Centers. 
 —The New Plush Stitch 233 
 
CONTENTS. X v 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Practical Designs. — Embroidery Patterns. — An Elegant 
 Pincushion. — Silk Counterpane and Cover. — Tatted 
 Doyley. — Design for Linen Embroidery . 242 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Some Elegant Designs. — Embroidered Rocking-Chair Cover 
 — A Work-Apron. — Designs for Elegant Glass Mir- 
 rors. — New Style of Splasher. — Bead Embroidered 
 News-Rack. — Handsome Table-Cover. — A Piano Scarf 
 in Plush Applique Work 249 
 
 CHAPTER VHI. 
 
 Hangings for Doors, Halls, and Windows. — How to Make 
 them and of What to Make them. — Elegant Effects at 
 Small Cost. — How to Use the Odds and Ends in Ren- 
 dering the House more Beautiful. — Cost of Materials. . 259 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Screens. — How to Make them. — Materials. — How to Use 
 Screens to Advantage. — Ebonizing Wood. — Painted 
 Screens. — How to Use Discarded Material to Advan- 
 tage in Covering Panels for Screens. — Embroidered 
 Screens. — How to Make the Frames 266 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Embroidered Screens. — Japanese Piecework. — A Patriotic 
 Screen. — The Uses of Old Material. — A Queer Use for 
 an Old Clothes-Horse. — Lambrequins. — Tables. — Cabi- 
 nets. — Odd and Ends. — Use up the Pieces 272 
 
X vi CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Some New Designs in Embroidery. — Lambrequin and Cur- 
 tains. — Materials to Use, and How to Construct. — An 
 Elegant Sofa Pillow. — A New Applique Design. — 
 Lace Lambrequin , 282 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Furnishings. — The Hall. — Its Impression upon Visitors. — 
 The Parlor. — Diniug-Room. — How to Furnish them at 
 Reasonable Cost. — Home-Made Mantels, Rugs, Carpets, 
 etc 285 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Bed-Rooms. — How to Make them Cheerful, Comfortable, 
 and Healthful. — Bed-Room Furniture. — Cheap but 
 Useful Furniture. — How to Make a Bed Room Table. 
 —Wash-Stand with Drapery 294 
 
 PART FOUR. 
 
 zFfie (£cUv, fyiftulv, and ffiofwyation of fffowUb. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The Culture of Flowers, — How to Have Thriving Plants 
 and Abundance of Flowers. — Useful Suggestions. — 
 How to Construct and Manage Hot-Beds and Flower- 
 Beds '. 303 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Description of Varieties.' — A List of Bulbs, with Methods of 
 Treatment. — Climbers. — Annuals. — Varieties Suitable 
 for all Purposes 311 
 
CONTENTS. xv ji 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Window Gardening. — How to Have Flowers all Winter. — 
 Best Varieties for Winter Use. — How to Care for the 
 Flowers. — Their Arrangement in the Window 327 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Preserving Natural Flowers. — An Art worth Knowing. — 
 How to Keep Natural Flowers for a Long Time. — Pre- 
 serving by tha Sand Process. — The Sulphur Process. — 
 Preserving Bridal and Funeral Flowers. — An Elegant 
 Art. — Arrangement of Flowers 333 
 
 P&UT FI¥B. 
 
 JlfPUceffcmwub §vcolati-w JliU fol tfiv jfome. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Brush and Pigment. — Painting in Oil and Water Colors. — 
 Full Instructions for Both. — Panel Painting. — Painting 
 Plaques and Vases. — An Elegant Art. — Beautifying 
 the Home. — A New Ware for Painting. — Oil Colors on 
 Silk, Satin, and Plush. — Water Colors. — Bowl Paint- 
 ing 339 
 
 ( HAPTER II. 
 
 Crystal Ainbrotvpes, or Photo-Enamel. — How to Paint 
 Photographs. — Explicit Directions for the Painting. — 
 Materials and their Use. — Decalcomania, or the Art of 
 Transferring Pictures. — Transferring Pictures to Wood, 
 Stone, Glass, Silk, Satin, etc. — Easy and Inexpensive 
 
 Ways of Decorating 345 
 
 3 
 
xviii CONTEXTS. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Something Novel in Embroidery. — Fish Scales. — How to 
 Make Bags and Sachets. — Cover for a Baby's Crib. — 
 Oval Frames for Photographs. — Baskets. — A Kitchen 
 Table Transformed into a Library Table.^-How to 
 Make Bugs. — Sheepskin Bugs 349 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Encaustic Tiles. — Their Durability.— How to Use them. — 
 Paving Hearths. — Cost. — Mantels. — How to Get 
 them. — 'Cabinets. — Home Decoi'ation of Tiles. — Lin- 
 crust a -"Walton >55 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Dyeing and Bleaching. — Dyeing Cotton. — How to Treat the 
 Fabrics. — Directions for all Leading Colors. — Dyeing 
 Woolens. — Aniline Colors. — Coloring Straw Hats. — 
 How to Make Mordants.—" Sour." — Dye for Feathers. 
 — Bleaching Sponge. — To Whiten Lace. — Bleaching 
 Straw Goods.— Cleaning Ostrich Feathers. — Bleaching 
 Ivory, Prints, and Printed Books. — Washing Fluid . . 360 
 
 PART SIJ<S^» 
 
 cffiou&e/iofd (fromficndium of JYbw and Vafuaffe 
 
 I. 
 
 Hints on Health. — Hints on Home Decoration. — Use- 
 ful Toilet Recipes. — Varnishes. — Paints. — Staining 
 Woods. — Cleaning' and Scouring. — Cleaning Fabrics. — 
 Cements. — Benewing Old and Defaced Manuscripts. — 
 Recipes for Making Colored Inks. — Lead Exploding. — 
 
CONTENTS, 
 
 xix 
 
 To Keep Wagon Tires on the Wheels.— The U. S. 
 Government Tempering Secret. — U. S. Mint Test for 
 Counterfeit Silver 377 
 
 II. 
 
 HOUSEKEEPER'S MANUAL OF COOKING. 
 
 Kitchen Utensils. — Soups. — How to make them.- — Fish. 
 — Directions for Cooking. — Poultry and Game. — Lashes 
 and Gravies. — Meats. — Salads, Sauces, and Pickles. — 
 Relishes. — Puddings. — Pies. — Custards. — Bread. — 
 Cakes. — Ices. — Preserving and Canning Fruits. — Bev- 
 erages. — Giving Dinners. — Table Etiquette. — Invita- 
 . tions. — Bills of Fare 417 
 
 General Index 485 
 
 (se&je 
 
-^VOTT^^ 
 
 List ol Illustrations. 
 
 ^5J01»- 
 
 I'AGK. 
 
 FIG. 
 
 1. Sash Ventilation for Dwelling Houses 95 
 
 2. The Log Cabin. - ...- 103 
 
 3. A Cheap Prairie Cottage. Cost, under $50.' 
 
 Ground Plan. 105 
 
 4. Elevation Plan op Same. 106 
 
 5. The Same Enlarged 107 
 
 6. The Same Transformed into Convenient House. 
 
 Ground Plan. 108 
 
 7. Elevation Plan of Same. 109 
 
 v 8. Attractive Cottage Home on Economical Scale. 
 
 Cost $600. Ground Plan. 112 
 
 9. Elevation Plan of Same. 113 
 
 10. Story-and-a-half House for City Eesidence. Cost, 
 
 $1300. Ground Plan 116 
 
 11. Chamber Plan of Same. . . 117 
 
 1 2. Elevation Plan of Same. 119 
 
 13. Another Style for Story-and-a-half House. Cost, 
 
 |900. Ground Plan 122 
 
 14. Elevation Plan of Same. 123 
 
 15. Story-and-a-half Suburban Residence. Cost, 
 
 $1600. Ground Floor 126 
 
 16. Elevation Plan of Same. 126 
 
 .17. A Rural Cottage Home. Cost, $1500. Ground 
 
 Floor. 129 
 
 18. Elevation Plan op Same. 129 
 
 19. Modern Gothic Roof Story-and-a-half House. 
 
 Cost, $1700. Elevation and Perspective. 130 
 
 20. Substantial Gothic Dwelling. Cost, $5000. 
 
 Ground Floor 133 
 
 [XX] 
 
ILL USTEA TIONS. xxi 
 
 21. Chamber Floor of Same 134 
 
 22. Elevation Plan of Same. ..' 134 
 
 23. Extensive Farm Residence, with Barn and Out- 
 
 buildings. Ground Plan and Second Floor. . . 136 
 
 24. Elevation and Perspective of Same.. 136 
 
 25. Elegant Brick Residence. — A City Erection. 
 
 Cost $5000. First Floor Plan. 1 40 
 
 26. Elevation And Perspective of Same 140 
 
 27. Elegant Modern Villa. Elevation and Per- 
 
 spective 142 
 
 28. Ornamental Iron Castings for Roofs, Gables, Etc. 151 
 
 29. The Same 152 
 
 30. The Same 153 
 
 31. Attractive Designs for Windows 154 
 
 32. The Same 155 
 
 33. Plan for Ice House and Preservatory Combined. 158 
 
 34. Farm and Carriage Barn Combined. Ground Plan. 1 60 
 
 35. Elevation of Same. 161 
 
 36. Plan of Carriage Drive in Ornamental Grounds. 
 
 Egress and Ingress 197 
 
 37. Ornamental Fence 20i> 
 
 38. Frieze Pattern Designed by John Leighton, F. S. 
 
 A., London. . _ 225 
 
 39. The Same. Fred Beck, New York 225 
 
 40. The Same. Lewis C. Tiffany, New York.. 225 
 
 41. Design for Banner Screen 239 
 
 42. 43. Two Embroidery Patterns 243 
 
 44. Embroidered Pincushion. 244 
 
 45, 46. Two Silk Counterpanes 245 
 
 47. Tatted Doyley 246 
 
 48. Embroidered Tidy on Linen Crash 247 
 
 49. Elegant Rocking-Chair 249 
 
 50. Embroidered Work-Apron 250 
 
 51. Hair Receiver... 251 
 
 52. 53. Two Mirrors 252, 253 
 
 54. New Style of Splasher 253 
 
 55. News Rack 253 
 
 56. Three-Cornered Table. 254 
 
 57. Applique Piano Scarf. 256 
 
 58. Table Scarf in Darned Work 2.~>7 
 
 59. . Three-Panel Screen 267 
 
 60. Embroidered Banner Screen. 275 
 
 61. Handsome Lambrequin 276 
 
xxii ILL USTBA Tl OXS. 
 
 62. Ornamental Table-Cover 278 
 
 63. Hall Mirror and Hat Hack Combined. 286 
 
 64. Hat, Coat, and Umbrella Rack. . 287 
 
 65. Easy Reading or Library Chair. .. . 289 
 
 6Q. Rocker, The Same 290 
 
 67. Useful and Graceful L ;unge. . 291 
 
 68. Hassock on Castors , 292 
 
 69. Bed-Room Furniture. 295 
 
 70. Wardrobe Bedstead ... 296 
 
 71. Bedstead with Drapery. 297 
 
 72. Elegant Folding Chair. . . . 2'.». v 
 
 73. Wash-Stand with Drapery. 299 
 
 74. Water-Lilies 324 
 
 75. Wire Flower-Stand. 328 
 
 76. Bay-Window. : 329 
 
 77. Reflected Floral Decoration. '. .. _ 330 
 
 78. Group of Scroll-Saw Decorations. 331 
 
 79. Lessons in Scroll Sawing, No. 1 340 
 
 8Q. The Same. No. 2 341 
 
 81. The Same. No. 3 - 341 
 
 82. The Same. No. 4. 342 
 
 83. The Same. No. 5. ........ 344 
 
 84. The Same. No. 6. 344 
 
 85. 86, 87. Instructions in Fine Combinative Work. 34s 
 88, 89, 90, 91. Escutcheons for Key-Hole Ornaments. 348 
 
 92. Hand Scroll or Fret Saw 350 
 
 93. Tools Employed in Wood Carving. 6 Illustrat'ns. 353 
 
 94. A Design for Practice 353 
 
 95. 96. Carving a Wall Pocket. . . . . 358 
 
 97. Carving a Book Rack. . . 359 
 
 98. Carving a Bread Platter. .... 360 
 
 99. Carving a Paper Knife. . . : . . 361 
 
 100. Carving a Bracket - . 361 
 
 101. Carving a Molding. 361 
 
 102. Cooking Range ...... 41 8 
 

 7j5~ 
 
 m m I 
 
 I ) Hi EL 
 
 \h 
 
 ^ 
 
 N 
 
 Homes. 
 
 y 
 
When we mean to build, 
 We first survey the plot, then draw the model ; 
 And when we see the figure of the house, 
 Then must we rate the cost of construction : 
 Which, if we find outweighs ability, 
 What do we then, but draw anew the model 
 In fewer offices ; or at least, desist 
 To build at all. 
 
 — King Hexrt IV., Part II, Act I, Scexe 3. 
 
 [24] 
 
CxFI^F'TRR I. 
 
 GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS. — IDEAL HOMES. — RENTING AND 
 PURCHASING. — CONTRACTING THE WORK. 
 
 -°oj«<oc^ 
 
 OME. — This word to most of us possesses deep 
 significance. With what reverence do we look 
 back to the home of our childhood, now em- 
 balmed in memory as our heart's dearest treas- 
 ure ! Not a home, do we mean, surrounded with 
 all the luxuries of life, but one, even though 
 humble, where there was "plenty and to spare." 
 The old home, with father and mother and its 
 stores of plenty, did not quite content us; we 
 felt a spirit of unrest taking possession of us. 
 Then we were unable to appreciate our blessings 
 as we do now, looking back to them in the light of a riper 
 experience. Points and objects that failed to attract us 
 then, are now so many shrines at which we do homage, 
 and as we achieve success or meet failure, our minds revert 
 to the old home with its precious memories. 
 
 Our ideal home is not like the home of our youth; it 
 is one that is to meet the wants, as far as our means will 
 allow, of our own households, enabling us to enjoy that com- 
 
 [25] 
 
26 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 fort and independence that can never be appreciated by 
 those whose thought is of to-day, and who let the morrow 
 care for itself. 
 
 To our mind there is nothing more ennobling than the 
 united efforts of young married people directed to the 
 acquisition of a home. They may be, as the majority are, 
 possessed of limited means; but good health, temperate 
 habits, and frugal saving of earnings, though small, will 
 enable them to purchase or build a cottage and adorn it. 
 There, when the cares of the day are over, beneath their 
 "oavii vine and fig-tree," they can recount the successes of 
 the past, and plan for the future. 
 
 The work done by our own hands, ami the money our 
 own sweat has earned, are to us a source of peculiar pride 
 and satisfaction. So a home, earned by the concerted efforts 
 of husband and wife, will possess a charm far greater than 
 if they come in possession of it by heirship. More precious 
 because of its association with their struggles with necessity. 
 
 The great trouble is that the young people of to-day are 
 not willing -to commence so far down the scale; thev cannot 
 be content with such an humble beginning as their parents 
 made; and instead of commencing a home soon after mar- 
 riage, they rent and furnish a house in extravagant style, 
 often spending enough in furnishing to pay for a home of 
 comfortable size. All this, Ave remark, is done with the 
 plea of economy. They promise to build when they have 
 means enough. We who have traveled the path so often, 
 can see their mistake. A false pride has prevented them 
 from accepting humbler quarters, from whence in a* few 
 years the}' might have gone out to wealth and even 
 opulence. 
 
 t * 
 
BJENTINO AND PURCHASING. 27 
 
 How many instances have we met of those who have 
 rented and fitted up the house of a close landlord, hoping 
 at no distant day to be able to pay for a home of their own ; 
 but month after month, and year after year, the rent bill 
 absorbs the savings, until they have paid out as much as 
 would be required either to pay for a house, or secure one 
 in such a manner as to be gradually brought into their full 
 possession by frugal savings and payments. 
 
 In our opening chapter we cannot forbear offering a 
 word of encouragement to persons of small means seeking 
 homes, for we know well, from actual experience, what 
 small earnings, carefully saved and judiciously expended, 
 will do in this direction. 
 
 One need not have too much fear in incurring a safe 
 amount of debt on a home when there is a constant saving 
 going on, and a gradual reduction of the principal can be 
 made. We wish, however, to caution all against one 
 serious mistake, — many times the plan of the house and 
 cost of the same are not definite enough, and the home that 
 was intended, under no circumstances, to exceed in cost the 
 sum of fifteen hundred dollars, -is found very incomplete 
 when that amount has been expended, and it is found, when 
 too late, that the cost will be fully two thousand dollars. 
 
 It is then found that the loan, which could have been 
 secured on the premises for the first amount named, at a 
 low rate of interest with easy terms of payment, will be 
 hard to obtain for the larger amount ; and should the loan 
 lie secured for this last amount, it will necessarily be at a 
 higher rate of interest; hence the risk of paying off the debt 
 is greater. 
 
 Misfortune, dull business, or sickness, may curtail the 
 
 t> 
 
28 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 earnings, and the result will be inability to meet payments 
 of interest and on principal, and the ghost of foreclosure of 
 mortgage haunts the homestead. After a struggle, perhaps 
 of many years, the unfortunate owner is obliged to give up, 
 and with wife and family seek more humble quarters with 
 monthly rental. 
 
 We present this picture to place all of small means on 
 their guard. Be sure not to build too large; know what 
 the cost to complete the home will be before commencing. 
 It is better to live in a rented house than to go through the 
 anxiety, annoyance, trouble, and disappointment of almost 
 paying for a home and then seeing it taken from you, your 
 labor lost, and your earnings swept away. 
 
 This state of affairs need not occur, except in rare 
 instances, if anything like a reasonable amount of fore- 
 thought and good judgment is exercised. The usual way, 
 and the best way, for people of only moderate means to 
 build anything of much cost, and be sure of a knowledge of 
 the sum total when completed, is to contract the work for a 
 given sum; and if for a house of not much pretension, the 
 better way is to have a plan, if possible, from some architect 
 of known ability and of a good reputation. He can em- 
 body in his plan even every little thing about a house, from 
 a sliding door down to a set of drawers in the kitchen 
 pantry, or cleats and shelves in the closets, thus obviating 
 the risk of the builder's never-failing desire to run up a 
 heavy bill of "extras" on the completion of the job, as too 
 many of them try to make it larger than it should be for 
 the amount of work done. 
 
 In the larger cities and towns where the services of a 
 good architect can be had, it is always advisable to employ 
 
CONTRACTING THE WORK. 29 
 
 one, at least to do the planning and preparing of the contract 
 and specifications for letting the work, if not for superin- 
 tending. A good set of plans and specifications, carefully 
 executed, can be followed even by a man comparatively un- 
 accustomed to such things, with sufficient precision to dis- 
 cover any great variation the contractor might try to make 
 in the building. But for buildings of much pretension there 
 is no better evidence of the benefits of a good plan and super- 
 intendency of the work from day to day as it progresses, 
 by a competent architect, than the fact that in large cities 
 there are men known as "building speculators," who do not 
 build without definite plans and usually superintendents. 
 But for the majority who will read this book, and whom we 
 hope in a measure to assist, in the smaller cities and towns, 
 villages and country homes, it is not always easy to get the 
 professional assistance required, and for their benefit we 
 wish to offer a few suggestions, before proceeding to the dis- 
 cussion of other matters and the description of the accom- 
 panying plates. 
 
Ghaptrr II. 
 
 HOW TO PLAN A HOUSE. — HINTS AS TO HOW TO PROCEED. 
 -KINDS OF LUMBER TO USE. — SUGGESTIONS WORTH 
 N I >T ING. — PAINTING. 
 
 -o-o»<Oo- 
 
 N the first place, we assume that a small cottage 
 is to be built. The only one to apply to in the 
 village is one of the two or three carpenters, 
 who perhaps knows little of the real conveniences 
 of life that may be introduced into the small 
 cottage, or who does not seem to rise above the 
 one thought that a certain number of rooms 
 after some stereotyped pattern he has been 
 familiar with, is all that is required. We do 
 not mean to say this is always the case, for 
 sometimes the carpenter exercises a good amount 
 of ability in the arrangement of rooms in the small houses 
 that come under his hand. 
 
 If you cannot secure the help of a competent carpenter, 
 you should commence by carefully calculating the amount 
 of room you must have, examining the houses of some of 
 your acquaintances, and comparing sizes and* arrangement 
 of rooms; and if you can refer to some book of plates and 
 
 [30] 
 
HOW TO PLAN A HOUSE. 31 
 
 arrangement of space and simple forms of exterior finish, 
 such as this work is intended to furnish, much assistance 
 can be obtained in designing your house. 
 
 Outline to a certain scale, if in ever so crude a form, the 
 rooms, with the dimensions marked on the same, also giving 
 outside measure of the whole building. 
 
 Locate the doors and windows where they will give the 
 best light and most room for the arrangement of the 
 furniture, when the building is completed. How many 
 times these two important things— doors and windows — 
 have, for the want of a little forethought, been so arranged 
 that the sunlight cannot be admitted as it should be. or in 
 the position to fail to secure the ventilation that might be 
 easily obtained in the summer time by open windows. 
 
 A bed room should, if possible, have two windows; and 
 if on a corner, one on each of the two sides, thereby 
 securing a draft of air in the heat of the summer, which 
 could not be obtained by one window, or two on the same 
 side. The doors should be located as far as possible from 
 the corners of rooms, and so as to come opposite the 
 windows, that they too may help to secure a thorough 
 ventilation in the heat of summer. 
 
 Now from the specifications given in succeeding chapters 
 can be found something bearing upon almost every point, so 
 that the amateur can get up specifications and contract 
 that shall quite completely cover all necessary particulars on 
 a house of the kind under consideration. The elevation will 
 have to be determined, the height of posts, and distance 
 between ceiling and floor, and height of second story. This 
 is meant to be a perfectly plain story-and-a-half cottage, 
 devoid of much ornamentation. 
 
32 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Now from the carpenters who are to figure on the work, 
 you can discover any gross error you have made in your 
 terms or description of things. This is supposing you do 
 not have an average good carpenter to apply to for 
 assistance in making the plans and specifications ; but most 
 carpenters are capable of studying out floor plans, and 
 making out specifications in some form or other ; and in case 
 you want to build a house similar to the one we have been 
 discussing, and you apply to a builder, he will, under your 
 directions, prepare a floor arrangement and specifications, 
 with the understanding that he is to compete with whoever 
 else in his line you may deem it proper to call in; and 
 if you do not award him the job, you are to remunerate him 
 for his sketches. 
 
 Now with the aid of what you will find in succeeding 
 chapters of this work, you can carefully read over his 
 specifications and compare them with those we have given, 
 and see where omissions have been made by him, or descrip- 
 tion of particulars left incomplete; also, where the quality 
 of material is not what it should be. 
 
 By referring to the chapter containing the estimates of 
 quantities of the different forms of building material, yovi 
 can ascertain very nearly the different amounts needed 
 in constructing your house. For instance, brick that are 
 the usual size, 2x4x8 inches, require 22 to the cubic foot, or 
 in building a common chimney 16 inches square, it will 
 take 30 brick to the foot in height. Thus you will find in 
 tins work all the different methods of estimating buildings, 
 commonly used by builders. 
 
 These will all be of assistance, particularly in country 
 places. They will be of special value to the farmer, whether 
 
HOW TO PROCEED. 33 
 
 he is erecting a house, or some of the many different kinds 
 of farm buildings, where usually all materials are furnished 
 and the labor contracted by the day to execute the work. 
 
 He commences in the fall, after farming work is well 
 out of the way, and determines what he wants for a 
 building, and the size of the same, cutting from his own 
 forest and hauling to the mill the logs to cut out all of 
 the different dimensions and kinds of materials, which 
 should then be piled up to dry. 
 
 All material intended for finishing, inside and outside, 
 such as flooring, clapboarding, or weather- boarding, casings 
 and moldings, should be thoroughly dried out and seasoned, 
 so that it can be matched, planed, re-sawed, and got into 
 shape for putting up. In fact, all timber should be 
 thoroughly seasoned, for, if put up before dry, it is always 
 "getting out of shape," as it is termed, warping and 
 twisting badly, doors and window-frames opening joint, the 
 plastering cracking, frame settling, and openings appearing 
 under the base-boards. 
 
 All of this may be caused, even where the finish is dry, 
 by putting in the framing when it is wet, and covering it 
 up before it has time to dry, which it will do after fires are 
 in the house, and produce the results above mentioned. 
 Therefore, if the framing lumber cannot have time to be 
 dried in the pile, it should be allowed to stand three or four 
 weeks or more in the building, before plastering. 
 
 All floor joists for the second floor should be sized to a 
 uniform width, and all outside and inside studding should be 
 treated in the same manner; then the walls will come even, 
 and there will be no trouble by the variations in widths of 
 studding. Any kind of lumber will dry sufficiently in the 
 
34 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 open air, piled up openly with free access for the air to pass 
 through, except in case of that used for doors, sash, and 
 blinds, which must be kiln-dried after being dressed; or as 
 is usual with doors, when framed together before gluing, 
 placed in the kiln for a few days. Pine lumber for doors, 
 sash, and blinds should be soft, as that which is hard and 
 glassy, or what is known as Norway pine, will warp when 
 the door comes to be used. For painted work it don't 
 matter so much if some sap is used on inside finish, unless 
 the work is to be painted white, when it would take too 
 many coats to cover the dark colors of the sap ; and if any 
 knots are used, either inside or out, they should be 
 thoroughly covered with shellac before painting, as it will 
 help to prevent the pitch coming through. If the wood 
 is finished in the natural color of the pine, it must first 
 be made perfectly smooth with sand-paper, if a good job is 
 wanted, and then given one coat of hard oil finish. When 
 dry, over this spread two coats of good copal or coach 
 varnish ; this, when dry, makes a hard, bright, glossy finish, 
 easily kept clean. The wood for the work must be sand- 
 papered with the grain, as any cross rubbing will, when the 
 work is done, show scratches on the surface. 
 
 When we can have our way, we never paint anything 
 white. The old-time custom, in many parts of the country, 
 of painting the house white, and outside blinds green, we 
 know has a strong hold on the popular mind ; but we think 
 if a little attention is given to the subject, and pains taken 
 to see some houses that are painted in one or more modern 
 colors, most of the adherents to the glaring white and 
 brilliant green will yield to the more harmonious shades 
 that are in better accord with the surroundings. 
 
PAINTING. 
 
 35 
 
 These criticisms apply with equal force to the subject of 
 inside finish. We never would paint anything white. 
 Paint each room in one or more colors of delicate shades, 
 neutral tints, with nothing having a gaudy appearance, but 
 presenting a quiet harmony in tone and color with the fur- 
 nishing of the room. In papering, the color of paint and 
 tint of paper should always be considered, so that they may 
 blend well. (See Department of House Painting.) 
 
Ghaftee 111. 
 
 ORNAMENTATION. — APPEARANCE OF A HOUSE. — SECRET OF 
 ATTRACTIVE BUILDINGS. — THE PLACE TO PUT ORNA- 
 MENTS. — LITTLE EXPENSE WITH GOOD RESULTS. — THE 
 FRONT ENTRANCE. — PORTICO. — CORNICE. — GABLE. 
 
 ^►oXKc 
 
 HE exterior of a house built of wood can, at a 
 small cost over what the difference would be for 
 a plain one, be made attractive and even beauti- 
 ful in outline and effect; it should, however, be 
 borne in mind that the requirements to produce 
 a fine artistic effect, are not, by any means, in 
 the amount of ornamentation put on, but in the 
 kind and in the adaptability of the ornaments of 
 the building. In other words, what is put on 
 for the purpose of ornamenting should be in the 
 right place, and look as if it belonged and had a 
 purpose there. Many times this is overdone, and the 
 building when completed looks more like a thing constructed 
 upon which to nail tawdry or illy-designed ornaments, than 
 a harmonious whole, with each part blending with the 
 other, and making an object that will attract attention, 
 and challenge admiration, and upon which the eye lingers 
 
 [36] 
 
WHERE TO PUT ORNAMENTS. 37 
 
 spell-bound, while the effect on the memory is of something- 
 beautiful. 
 
 All this is very simple of explanation. Sometimes 
 we look upon a house that has this attraction for us, and 
 when we come to think over the amount of ornamenting 
 done and the cost of the same, we are almost astonished 
 that so little could attract attention; but it is simply the 
 arrangement of the design of the building that produces this 
 effect. ' 
 
 The front entrance, the portico, and the entrance 
 doors should, we think, be the place to show the most taste 
 in ornamentation. This is the point that must command 
 the most marked attention. Let the outline be easy and 
 graceful, the steps broad, and, where there is plenty of room 
 and the expense can be borne, curve out in an easy manner. 
 Nothing helps to make an inviting entrance like broad, 
 easy steps. 
 
 The front doors, we think, should be a model of outline,* 
 and the ornamentation in good taste. This can be done 
 without much, if any, carvings. We think that most of 
 the costly doors often seen, covered with carved ornaments, 
 are anything but beautiful, and they often look burdened 
 with unmeaning intricacies of the gouge and chisel, where 
 something else, in rich design of form and outline, would 
 have been far more attractive. 
 
 The portico, again, an important feature so commonly 
 used now on city and town houses, possesses the same 
 characteristics, that is, the same amount of work looks 
 either good or bad according to the taste and skill displayed 
 in the forms of finish, the dimensions of outlines, caps, etc. 
 A column too large in proportion, may spoil the good effect 
 
38 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 of an otherwise fine portico; and the same thoughtfulness 
 must govern the entire work. 
 
 The windows, the frames, caps, and sills must, when 
 completed, form an outline that is easy and symmetrical, 
 whatever the design may be. For instance, a window 
 with a neat cap, and the sill cut short off, with nothing to 
 relieve it on the side, or any corbel under the sill, looks 
 ungraceful. It matters not how fine a cap it may have, 
 there will be something lacking. 
 
 Cornices and gables, again, are open to the same crit- 
 icism. A cornice may be too broad for the building, or the 
 roof too steep for the width of cornice, either of which pro- 
 duces a strange effect upon the building. The gable can be 
 ornamented in a multitude of ways that are most pleasing 
 to the eye, or the vagaries of the jig and band saw may 
 cumber it down with trash that is most repulsive to 
 look upon. 
 
 We have briefly touched upon these points, endeavoring 
 to show where beauty in the exterior of our houses may be 
 had, and that, too, in many cases without increasing the 
 cost, if we only use good taste, skill, and fair judgment in 
 the designs. 
 
Q HAPTRR J^ # 
 
 I 
 
 BUILDINGS OF WOOD. — THEIR ECONOMY. — KINDS OF WOOD 
 TO USE.— ERECTING THE BUILDING.— DIRECTIONS THERE- 
 FOR. — RENDERING WOODEN DWELLINGS WARM. — BACK 
 PLASTERING. — HOW TO MAKE A WOODEN DWELLING 
 NEARLY FIRE PROOF. 
 
 moderate 
 there can 
 one built 
 brick and 
 discussion 
 chapter. 
 
 oXKc 
 
 N this country with its almost exhaustless 
 resources of forests, including the finest assort- 
 ment of woods for building found on any 
 continent, the choicest kinds can be procured at 
 reasonable figures. 
 
 The woods best adapted for the framing and 
 finishing of all exterior portions, as well as for 
 the superstructure itself, are PINE, spruce, and 
 hemlock, their abundance, improved methods 
 of manufacture, and moderate cost, rendering 
 them the most desirable woods for houses of 
 cost. As far as health is concerned, we think 
 be no house better adapted to its promotion than 
 of wood. However, the obstacles to health in 
 stone buildings are not insurmountable, and a full 
 of these materials will be found in another 
 
 [39] 
 
40 OUR HOMES AND THEIE ADORNMENTS. 
 
 A building of wood cannot well be made as warm as 
 one of brick or stone, but can, in the following manner, be 
 made warm enough for all practical purposes. For an ordi- 
 nary eight-room, two-story building we will imagine three 
 rooms and a hall in first story, the same number on the 
 second floor, and a rear part with kitchen, pantry, and 
 back staircase, and cellar under this, and on second floor of 
 rear part a servant's room and bath-room. The sills should 
 be eight inches square, the floor joists for first floor two by 
 ten inches, and framed into the sills even with the tops of 
 the same, so that when the floor is laid it will just come 
 evenly over the sills, to prevent rats and mice from gaining 
 an entrance, for these pests are one of the most annoying dis- 
 advantages in most wood dwellings, as they are generally 
 constructed. 
 
 Now proceed to put up the outer walls -of the house of 
 two by four scantling, with ledger boards one by five 
 inches cut in for second story floor joists to rest upon, and 
 plates doubled and spiked down on top of scantling for 
 rafters. Cover the outside of frame with good, sound 
 boards, dry, or nearly so. 
 
 The frame should either be dry, or after being put into 
 the building should have a chance to dry before plastering 
 is put on. Boards should be planed, as } T ou cannot make 
 them lay down even with each other if of uneven thickness. 
 On the inside, between the outside studding, nail on furring 
 strips one inch square with the face one and a half inches 
 from outside of studding, and to these lath in the ordinary 
 manner, and put on one good coat of rich, brown mortar; 
 this is known as back plastering. We know of no way so 
 well adapted for making a warm house as this. 
 
FIRE-PROOF WOODEN BUILDINGS. 41 
 
 If your frame is not dry, or if studding is wet or green, 
 they might shrink and leave small crevices for air between 
 furring strips and studding. We might observe right here 
 that it is of vast importance to have the timber for floors 
 and partitions well dried, either for wood buildings or brick 
 and stone. 
 
 This back plastering will cost from ten to twelve cents 
 per square yard, including lathing; and considering the 
 great benefit of a warm, dry house, it should be put in most 
 good houses at least. This arrangement leaves an air-space 
 next to the outside boarding, and one next to inside plaster- 
 ing, thereby effectually excluding dampness and wind. 
 
 Another thing that should be done to help overcome the 
 disadvantage of wood buildings, as compared with brick and 
 stone, is to render them comparatively safe from total de- 
 struction by fire. As usually constructed, walls are so 
 many flues on the outside, leaving free access for draughts 
 of air to fan a fire and spread it with lightning rapidity 
 from cellar to garret, so that when discovered it is beyond 
 control. 
 
 Such walls also allow vermin to pass up and in between 
 the ceiling and floors, if they once get in below. We over- 
 come this danger, in a measure at least, in the following- 
 way: On the level of the second floor, either run the floor- 
 ing in between studding, or nail or cut in horizontal pieces 
 between each studding, and over these fill in a couple of 
 inches of mortar or a course of brick laid in mortar. This 
 closes the passages between plaster and boards effectually, 
 so that there is no draught should the house catch fire by 
 any means on an outside wall. How many times this 
 arrangement alone would have kept a fire burning so slowly 
 
42 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 that it could have been discovered and put out before it 
 had worked its way up to the roof. This is one of the pre- 
 cautions that can be taken to reduce the risk of fire in 
 wooden buildings. • Still, most of our brick dwellings, so 
 far as their internal construction is concerned, are exceed- 
 ingly inflammable; and if a fire is once well under way, it 
 usually ruins everything inside. 
 
 Sheathing Paper. 
 
 But to return to our wood house. On the outside walls 
 we would place one thickness of tarred building paper with 
 the edges lapped, and run it under all finish, as corner 
 boards, cornices, window and door frames, etc. This paper 
 now costs two and three-fourths cents per pound, and comes 
 in rolls of about fifty yards each, on an average, so it will 
 be an easy matter to find out about the amount wanted. 
 
 Now these two things — building paper and back plas- 
 tering — should be used where a good house is building, 
 but on some cheaper houses it may not always do to incur 
 the expense. The usual plan here, and for most parts of 
 the country, is to paper only in the manner directed above; 
 but we are sure, that for a good house, it will pay to bu,ck 
 plaster also. 
 
 The roof, if of shingles eighteen inches long, should be 
 laid five and one-half inches to the weather, and should be 
 laid on roof boards with open joints one and a half inches. 
 This is much better for the roof than to have the boarding 
 laid with close edges, or matched, as when the shingles are 
 wet they absorb a large amount of moisture, and are liable 
 to swell and injure the roof. Where roof boarding is open, 
 a better circulation of air is obtained and the shingles dry 
 
SHINGLES AND CLAPBOARDS. 43 
 
 out quickly, while on the other hand, with boards laid close, 
 the shingles have to dry from the outside surface entirely, 
 or nearly so, and require more time, thereby causing a 
 quicker decay of the wood. 
 
 Shingles make a good roof, as almost every one knows; 
 and considering their cost, they are not liable to be super- 
 seded by anything else for cheap wooden buildings. The 
 slate roof, of course, is much better, both in appearance and 
 durability, but its cost must exclude it from general use on 
 wooden buildings of moderate cost while shingles are so 
 cheap. The best shingles ever made are the old-style hand- 
 shaved, but very few are now made. By using a little 
 care, in laying sawed shingles, to turn down the brash way 
 of the grain, the shingles will last much longer. 
 
 Clapboarding. 
 
 The outer walls are usually covered with clapboards of 
 pine, spruce, or, sometimes, basswood; in this locality, 
 usually pine, and this is the best. These boards are made 
 from six-inch strips, one inch thick as they come from the 
 mills; after being allowed to dry they are planed both 
 sides, and jointed, and run through a re-sawing machine, 
 making two clapboards out of each inch piece. Clap- 
 boards should not be laid to exceed four and one-half inches 
 to the weather, and nailed once in twelve inches. In many 
 parts of the Eastern States, particularly Maine, Vermont, 
 and New Hampshire, large quantities of spruce clapboards 
 a.re made from small, straight trees which are cut in four and 
 six-foot lengths, turned in a lathe and then sawed toward 
 the center, the thin edges in, and thick edges out. These 
 make a very good clapboard, but great care must be used 
 
44 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 in putting- them on, owing to their liability to split. Some 
 painters claim that on these boards paint will not stick 
 as well; still, in our experience, where dry clapboards 
 have been painted with pure white lead and linseed oil, 
 it has not come off. 
 
 Basswood is used in only a few localities where the wood 
 is plenty ; if put on dry, and thoroughly nailed and painted 
 without getting wet, it makes a very good covering. Clap- 
 boards are undoubtedly the best covering for outside walls 
 of wood buildings. Boards ten inches wide, running per- 
 pendicularly and battened at the joints, make a good out- 
 side covering. 
 
 Now-a-days we sometimes venture upon the grounds of 
 our ancestors by shingling outer Avails, but usually for 
 effect only, in gables, where a few shingles laid in a panel 
 or above a belt course, cut in some attractive pattern and 
 painted in some rich or warm color, have a pleasing effect. 
 The great disadvantages in the protection of exposed 
 surfaces of wooden buildings, render the material less 
 desirable for certain classes of residences, and there is not 
 the least doubt that less perishable materials are preferable, 
 other things being equal. 
 
(fxFI^F>TRR Y. 
 
 DURABLE FLOORS. — A BETTER PLAN FOR FLOORS SUG- 
 GESTED. — OPEN JOINTS AND HOW TO PREVENT THEM. 
 — INSIDE FINISH. — THE BEST WOODS AND HOW TO USE 
 THEM. — PREVENTION OF SWELLING IN LUMBER. 
 
 -OO^OO- 
 
 INE and spruce are the kinds used most for 
 ordinary floors that are to be covered with 
 carpeting. In the Middle and Western States, 
 the flooring- is matched and laid the first thing 
 Up after the roof is on the building. In the Eastern 
 States, a floor of cull boards, planed to an even 
 thickness and unmatched, is laid as soon as the 
 floor joists are in place, and this comes very 
 handy to work upon during the process of 
 constructing the walls, either in wood or brick 
 buildings. 
 After plastering and other work of inside finishing are all 
 done, and the base board in place, the last or upper floor 
 is laid over the cull floor previously laid. The last floor 
 is made of pine, or more commonly there, spruce, unmatched, 
 the edges jointed, and the measure taken for each piece, 
 which is cut in place and laid, commencing on either side of 
 
 [45] 
 
46 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 the room and meeting in the center, fitting each end to 
 a joint against base board. The last opening near the center 
 is measured, and a piece fitted and sprung into place, mak- 
 ing the whole floor tight. It is then lined off and nailed on 
 both edges. 
 
 This makes a very good floor, though costing somewhat 
 more than a matched floor. The edge of such a floor being 
 inside of base board, if there is any settling it will not show 
 an open joint, as in the plan of putting the base board 
 on the floor, when any shrinkage will leave an opening. 
 
 In kitchens, this plan of laying the floor inside of finish 
 is particularly good, as the* floor frequently wears out in 
 time, and has to be replaced, which can be done without 
 disturbing other finish. 
 
 Hard-wood floors are much used, and those made from 
 the following woods are desirable: White oak, hard maple, 
 cherry, and ash, if straight grained. 
 
 In the Eastern States, much southern hard pine is 
 used for public buildings and factories. This has a smooth, 
 hard, glassy surface, and makes an excellent floor to stand 
 the wear. 
 
 We omitted to mention the use of matched sheathing 
 for outer walls, in connection with our remarks on outside 
 covering; this is desirable many times for fronts in city 
 or town ; but in the way it is usually put on, horizontally, 
 in many places, we think it serves a very poor purpose. If 
 the sheathing applied in this way is ever so dry, the 
 tendency is to produce leaks and rotten joints. The rain, 
 beating against the wall, works into the joints, and falling 
 in behind window-frames, many times causes leaks and 
 swells open the joints of the sheathing, so that the appear- 
 ance is anything but pleasing. 
 
FINISHING. 47 
 
 We frequently sheathe the fronts of houses, but we 
 first board and paper outside in the usual manner; then 
 we use perfectly dry matched pine, seven-eighths inch thick 
 and two and a half inches wide (having it narrow lessens 
 risk of shrinkage), putting it on vertically, and wherever 
 it comes on a window cap, or roof, we turn the tin well 
 up under. The reasons why this method is better are 
 obvious. It cannot leak, for if any water should get into a 
 joint, it runs out at the lower end, and the joints running 
 vertically, the water will not have much tendency to get 
 into them. Besides, this method looks better. 
 
 We have, in this city, known of many instances where 
 the fronts of houses sheathed horizontally have leaked, and 
 the owners have had them clapboarded to put a stop to 
 the annoyance. 
 
 The best finish for all outside wood- work, as is well 
 known, is pine. Nothing else, of the many different kinds 
 of wood, possesses the quality of withstanding the storms 
 and weather changes as does pine, when, of course, pro- 
 tected with paint. 
 
 All outside finish, so far as practicable, should be primed 
 before being put into the building. We have found from 
 practice that the moldings of columns, as they are fitted 
 and cut for their respective places, should be hollowed out 
 on the back, or heel, of the miter, and the joints painted one 
 coat. A column made from dry pine, with its joints 
 put together in the same way, will not show the joints 
 of the capital and molded bases open, like many frequently 
 seen on new work carelessly put up. 
 
 The cause of open joints is plain. The water striking 
 the column and running down onto the capital and base, 
 
48 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 thoroughly saturates them ; they swell, and if what is known 
 as the heel, or thick part of the miter, has not been hol- 
 lowed out as above, the outer parts are forced apart, leaving 
 an ugly gap for the painter to cover up; if cut away, it can 
 swell without forcing the joint open on the outer corner. 
 
 Pine is also mostly used for all kinds of inside finish in 
 the ordinary class of buildings or houses. Whitewood, 
 known in some parts of the South as poplar, is used to some 
 extent where this kind of wood is plentiful, and being a soft 
 wood, it is very easy to work ; the surface finishes down 
 smoothly, and takes paint well. Indeed, it gives a better 
 surface for painted work than it is possible to obtain on 
 pine, and there is no pitch to come through, and but few 
 knots to be found in it. It is not abundant enough to 
 compete with pine in all markets, and although there are 
 very few knots or " shakes" to contend with, it has a way 
 of checking in seasoning, from the ends, that causes a large 
 waste to the consumer. These checks extend from one to 
 four feet from either end, and we know of no way to pre- 
 vent this. Having used a large amount of it in years past, 
 we think there is none. Bass-wood, a pure, white, soft, 
 pliable wood, fully as soft as pine, is much used for carriage 
 and sleigh bodies, and indeed for almost any finishing that 
 requires bending for form, where great strength is not 
 demanded. 
 
 This wood takes on a fine finish, as may be observed by 
 noticing the brilliant, coal-black polish on carriage bodies. 
 It makes a very good inside finish, but must be well, secured 
 in place, wherever used, as it will, before being painted, 
 quickly absorb moisture, and warp into all manner of 
 shapes. It has never been used very extensively in cities 
 
THE BEST WOODS. 49 
 
 for inside finishing, its use being confined principally to 
 certain localities where it is abundant and cheap, and where 
 pine is not so plenty. 
 
 In the Eastern States the farmer, having trees of this 
 variety in his forest, and no pine, cuts them into finishing- 
 lumber, and uses it to save the purchase of pine. Like 
 whitewood, it is much used in cabinet work for drawers and 
 backing of furniture. It resembles the whitewood in most 
 respects, being free from knots and liable to checking in the 
 ends during seasoning, but it is softer and whiter. The woods 
 enumerated in the foregoing list comprise those most used 
 for painted work on interior finish, save in California, where 
 redwood is used very largely. This wood has the peculiar 
 disadvantage of shrinking endwise of the grain. 
 
 In either of the two woods mentioned in comparison with 
 pine, neither is so well suited for doors and sash, as they will 
 warp, and must be secured in place to something solid. 
 This is particularly true of bass-wood. 
 
 Whitewood is sometimes used for doors, but does not stand 
 like pine; so when we consider the question of general 
 utility, pine is really the best of all, and we know of noth- 
 ing that retains its form as well. For inside finish, it 
 should be got out some time before being put into 
 the building, and kiln-dried either before or after work- 
 ing; and the best and only way anything like a good 
 house should be finished, is in the following manner: 
 The plastering should be put on around all doors, windows, 
 wainscotings, and base, and all the plaster work should be 
 thoroughly dry before the lumber for finish is taken into 
 the house, as dry pine, taken into even a damp room and 
 left for a few days, will absorb considerable moisture, and if 
 
 4 
 
50 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 put on the walls before it is dry, it will surely open in the 
 joints. 
 
 A very good plan, which we have seen used, is to give 
 lumber for casings or architravas, a coat of shellac on the 
 back side, which keeps the moisture, if there be any in the 
 wall, from entering the wood. 
 
 For finishing cheap houses, the plan most generally 
 followed, is to put on plaster ground for the base board 
 only, and then put on the first member of the architrave 
 around doors and windows, and finish the plastering to 
 this, and after mortar is dry, to put on a band molding, as 
 it is called, lapping over the casing and back onto the 
 plaster, covering the joint between casing and the mortar. 
 This plan answers very well for cheap houses, the only 
 difficulty being that the finish first put on will swell up by 
 contact with wet mortar and cause open joints, which will 
 have to be filled with putty by the painter. 
 
exMAFTRR VI. 
 
 STAIR CASES. — DIRECTIONS FOR BUILDING. — NEW STYLE OF 
 BANISTERS. — REAR STAIRCASE. — HARD WOODS. — BLACK- 
 WALNUT. — HOW TO FINISH A HOUSE IN HARD WOOD. 
 — VENEERING HARD WOODS. 
 
 oXKc 
 
 HE staircase in the better class of houses should 
 not be built, save the rough carriages, until after 
 plastering is completed and dry, for the rea- 
 sons before stated. The "treads and risers" 
 for all good stairs should be ganed, or housed in, 
 to back stringer 1 , as the term is used ; and where 
 
 the face stringer is cased up or made what is 
 known as a close stringer, they should be housed 
 into this also, and these grooves should be cut 
 on a bevel, and wedged and glued in place 
 solid and nailed. In the corner,' between the 
 stringers, a small, square, pine block, some six inches long, 
 should be glued in against "tread" and "riser." This 
 holds the stairs, or "treads" and "risers," solidly together, 
 and prevents the squeaking so often heard when going up 
 and down many apparently good flights of stairs. All 
 kinds of wood used for inside finish are used in stair 
 work. [51] 
 
52 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Until within a few years, the post at foot of stairs, or 
 newel post, banisters, and rail have been made from black- 
 walnut, except in the more pretentious houses, where 
 mahogany is sometimes used. But at the present, in the 
 East, very little black-walnut is used for stair work, ash, 
 oak, and butternut, being substituted. We have now, in 
 ordinary houses even, broken away, in a measure at least, 
 from the old-style turned newel post and banister, and in 
 their place you find a square post for a newel, ornamented 
 in a simple and pleasing manner on the base and shaft, with 
 a cap formed in a graceful outline to the top, for a gas-light 
 stand, or candelabrum, or if this is not wanted, an orna- 
 ment of wood. On the side of staircase, in place of the 
 banisters is found a neat design for a series of cut panels, 
 made quite open, so as not to look too " boxey," and this 
 surmounted by the rail. 
 
 If there is room in the arrangement to turn the stair 
 once, at least, when part way up, on a level landing, with a 
 square angle post at the corner, the effect is good. The 
 level landing of course takes a little more room. An ordi- 
 nary flight of stairs can be made in a neat and simple de- 
 sign, something after the plan stated above, at a cost very 
 little more than the old style, and it looks very much better. 
 
 A window of stained glass, over a staircase, or at a 
 landing part way up, gives a very pretty effect of color 
 in the hall below. Rear or back stairs are not always 
 housed in the stringer, but in a good house it is better, 
 and there should never be over three " winders " in turning 
 a corner, as when more are used it renders the steps so 
 narrow that a person going down is liable to fall. 
 
 In building, always bear in mind that back stairs are 
 
HARD WOOD FINISH. 53 
 
 used as much by nearly all the occupants as the front stairs, 
 and therefore as much care should be taken in their 
 construction. 
 
 Kinds of Haed Wood Generally Used in Inside 
 
 Finishing, and the Manner of Using and 
 
 Applying the Same. 
 
 The following constitute the principal kinds of native 
 hard woods used: Black-walnut, black or brown ash, 
 butternut, white ash, white maple, white oak, red oak, red 
 cherry, and sometimes birch and beech, but not to any great 
 extent. The days of black-walnut are already numbered 
 for lavish use in finishing buildings, and even for furniture. 
 The consumption of this beautiful wood in the last ten 
 years has been so great that the scarcity now felt is causing 
 the price to increase constantly ; and in a few years, at most, 
 it will be used but little, even in furniture, and that of 
 the most costly kind. Although it is an elegant wood, and 
 better adapted for furniture, we think that the finish of our 
 houses and public buildings loses nothing by the substitution 
 of the lighter hard-woods in its stead. 
 
 Spending several weeks recently in the cities of New 
 York and Boston, and visiting many fine houses as well 
 as public buildings, the author observed the general absence 
 of black-walnut finish even among the opulent. In the 
 West, where we can obtain it at a lower price than in 
 the East, we still adhere to it. Although, in our own 
 practice for the last four years we have been in favor of 
 using light, hard- woods, exclusive of any trimming up with 
 black-walnut. We have found, in the majority of cases, 
 that the prejudice in its favor is so strong that our patrons 
 would overrule our preference, and have the black-walnut. 
 
54 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 In the last two years we have finished a few houses 
 in light wood, and the indications are that we shall now 
 soon follow our Eastern friends in its use. The light woods 
 give a welcome, bright effect to an interior, their grain, 
 when finished properly by the painter, standing out clear 
 and beautiful. A room finished with light woods, in our 
 opinion, presents a more cheerful appearance and has noth- 
 ing of the gloomy effects produced by darker woods. Our 
 furniture generally being dark, the variety of upholstering 
 usually produces all the contrast required for effect without 
 the use of walnut finish. 
 
 The author has now in process of construction a 
 residence to cost twelve thousand dollars, with finishing as 
 follows : The parlor and sitting-room finished in butternut ; 
 the vestibule, front hall, and staircase, all black-walnut; the 
 dining-room, library, and entire remainder of house, in red 
 oak. The finishing of the hall and staircase in walnut was 
 simply a compromise with the proprietor, who in the 
 beginning was determined to run streaks of walnut all the 
 way through the different rooms, but finally consented to 
 the arrangement given above. 
 
 In the East, you can find beautiful staircases in fight 
 woods, and will be surprised at their beauty. There are, as 
 yet, but few in the city of Detroit. 
 
 The first proceeding with all kinds of hard- wood is to 
 get it thoroughly kiln-dried; and a good amount of care 
 should be used, so that the planks or boards will not warp 
 and spring while in the kiln. 
 
 In securing the best effect of grain, much depends upon 
 the sawyer; the sidings taken off produce fine grain, and 
 quartering the log through is a good way to show the grain. 
 
VARIETIES OF HARD WOOD. 55 
 
 In our judgment brown ash is one of the richest of our 
 native woods; the pleasing variety of forms the grain 
 assumes, especially the mottled or variegated color (some- 
 times called by dealers, " calico ash ") is very rich, desirable, 
 and much sought after for the Eastern market. Most 
 specimens of this wood are of a soft, brashy nature, easily 
 worked, and take on a fine, smooth finish when worked 
 down, in consequence of which it is much used in furniture. 
 
 White oak is an exceedingly tough, hard-wood, and very 
 difficult to work and bring down to a smooth finish. This 
 can of course be done, but it costs a good deal in hand labor 
 to accomplish it. 
 
 Red oak is less difficult to work, being more of the 
 nature of ash, but tougher; the grain is finely marked in a 
 variety of forms, and the red, bright color gives it a very 
 fine, rich effect when finished. 
 
 White or hard maple is a very hard, bright wood, 
 and very white (except the heart of the tree), used but 
 little for finishing work, but more for floors, the grain 
 being ordinary. Bird's-eye maple is much sought after for 
 car work, and is sometimes used in houses. 
 
 Red cherry has a very fine grain, and a rich, reddish 
 color, taking on a fine polish, and in some degree resembling 
 some varieties of mahogany. It is now much used in 
 the East for finishing staircases, dining-room wainscotings, 
 etc., and is very beautiful for such purposes. It is also used 
 extensively in the manufacture of school desks. 
 
 Some persons are led astray in regard to the difference 
 in cost of finishing in hard-woods and pine; the price per 
 thousand feet is about the same, but the difference in cost 
 arises from the fact that there is always more waste in hard- 
 
56 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 wood than pine, and that more hand labor is required 
 to produce a fine job of joining in hard-wood. 
 
 Doors of hard- wood should always be made by veneering 
 on pine. Make, first, a plain pine stile and rail door, and 
 make the panels of the kind of hard- wood intended; 
 then glue upon the pine frame, covering it up entirely, a 
 thin covering of the hard-wood desired, one-fourth to three- 
 eighths of an inch thick. When this work is dry, cut the 
 desired moldings of the hard-wood, and secure them on the 
 edges against rail and stiles, as in any other door. Such a 
 door, if properly made, will stand without warping. The 
 pine, being better to keep true than any known wood, 
 makes an excellent foundation to hold the hard-wood. 
 
 Another plan in common use for making a hard-wood 
 door, two and one-fourth inches thick, for instance, is to 
 make two doors of equal thickness and glue them together, 
 both being framed separately. When thus glued together, 
 a door is much stronger and less liable to warp than one 
 equally as thick made of a single piece of wood. 
 
CxFmPTRI^ VII. 
 
 SOMETHING MORE DURABLE. — BRICK AND STONE HOUSES. — 
 THEIR COST. — VENEER BRICK AND STONE WORK. — HOW 
 TO PREVENT BRICK WALLS FROM SWEATING. — STONE 
 TRIMMINGS FOR BRICK HOUSES. 
 
 o>Kc 
 
 HERE is something in the word stone suggestive 
 
 of stability; something that conveys the idea of 
 
 endurance, solidity, and capability to stand the 
 
 tempest, the wear of winter's ice and snow, and 
 
 of summer's parching rays. This ability to 
 
 withstand the forces of the elements, and to 
 
 maintain intact in spite of these forces, renders 
 
 stone the natural product of nature, and brick 
 
 the offspring of man's genius, especially suitable 
 
 for purposes of building, both for domestic and 
 
 commercial use. And then it gratifies the 
 
 natural vanity of a man to be able to erect a residence of 
 
 such material as will last for generations, and serve as a 
 
 land-mark of family history. 
 
 One great advantage of brick or stone work is, that when 
 once properly put up, it requires but little outlay to keep it 
 in good repair, while, on the other hand, a building of wood 
 
 [57] 
 
58 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 must be looked after frequently, and repainted every few 
 years, to preserve it from decay and keep it in good ap- 
 pearance. A brick house requires more care than stone, as 
 the bricks, in time, become discolored, and require to be 
 stained and penciled over. 
 
 Security from fire is another consideration in favor of 
 stone and brick, houses of these materials being less liable to 
 take fire from the outside ; but when once well started in- 
 side, a fire will do as much damage to furnishings and 
 contents as in a building of wood. 
 
 Comparative Cost. 
 
 The cost of buildings of brick and stone, of course, is 
 much more than of wood, being about twenty-five per cent 
 more for brick and more yet for stone. The cost of stone 
 mainly depends upon the locality of the quarry, the quality 
 of the stone itself, the means of transportation, and the ease 
 with which it can be worked. 
 
 As brick clay is found in almost every locality, the cost 
 of brick depends simply upon the cost of labor, fuel for burn- 
 ing, and the relation of supply and demand. It may be 
 well to state that quality depends much upon the methods 
 and thoroughness of burning the brick. This matter should 
 be looked to in the purchase of brick. Beautiful enameled 
 brick of many colors are now made, but their cost is too 
 great to bring them into general use, though for special pur- 
 poses they give a pleasing effect. 
 
 Veneer Brick and Stone Work. 
 
 A very nice plan for building what may be called a 
 half -stone or veneer-stone house, is as follows: On the 
 
VENEER BRICK AND STONE WORK. 59 
 
 completed foundation wall, back some five inches from the 
 outer edge of the water-table, a frame, as for a frame house, 
 is erected of two by six-inch studding in the usual manner, 
 and then boarded on the inside; fill in from the outside five 
 inches thick with brick and mortar against boarding, and 
 on top of water-table, outside of brick and mortar, set with 
 cement a veneer of sawed stone four inches thick, of con- 
 venient size, and anchor each stone to the studding with 
 small iron hooks. So build up, fitting in window sills and 
 caps, and finish with modern gothic roof, and the house is, 
 to all outward appearance, of solid stone. 
 
 We can see no reason why buildings erected by this plan 
 are not as durable as most houses. The wood is thoroughly 
 protected, and if the foundation wall is well laid, no damage 
 can arise from settling. We know of some such houses that 
 have been standing for many years, and are said to be in a 
 perfect state of preservation. 
 
 Brick veneer is made on the same principle. One four- 
 inch course of brick is laid from the foundation to top of 
 outer wall, anchored once in five courses, and the building 
 is taken for one of solid brick. The framing for these 
 should be quite dry, and rendered very strong by bridging. 
 
 This class of buildings, we think, should not be encour- 
 aged in city or town where houses are so compact, as in 
 case of fire the whole wall may tumble down when least 
 expected, burying the firemen under it. Being but four 
 inches thick, such walls in reality furnish but little protec- 
 tion against intense heat from surrounding buildings on fire. 
 
 Houses of brick or stone are, in consequence of thick 
 walls, much warmer in winter and cooler in summer than 
 buildings of wood. The walls should be furred by fasten- 
 
60 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 ing strips to them and lathing to these strips, leaving a dead 
 space between the plaster and brick or stone. This keeps 
 ont the moisture, and prevents the annoyance of " sweating " 
 walls. If the cellar of any house is not a perfectly dry one, 
 put on one coat of good mortar overhead. This effectually 
 prevents the passing of dampness from the cellar, and makes 
 a warm first floor. 
 
 The modern brick houses of more elaborate finish are 
 now trimmed with some of the many fine stones to be found 
 in different localities. The contrast produced by the fine 
 red of the brick and the quiet shades of the stone in sills, 
 belting-courses, window and door caps, and the various 
 other ways in which it may be needed, is very pleasing 
 indeed. We think it desirable to lay the stone flush with 
 the brick ; this keeps it cleaner, and it stands better. Pro- 
 jecting belts and courses must drop off the water, which 
 leaves soiled marks in its course. 
 
 When the foregoing facts are carefully weighed, we 
 think that the majority will agree with us in saying that 
 when it is intended to put over four thousand dollars into a 
 house, it should be constructed of brick or stone, or both, 
 if the locality is such that it can be done without exagger- 
 ated difference in cost. 
 
dMJVPTRK VIM, 
 
 VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS AND RULES. — METHODS OF ESTIMAT- 
 ING WORK AND MATERIAL. — HOW TO FIND THE 
 AMOUNT OF LUMBER NECESSARY TO ERECT A GIVEN 
 BUILDING. — PRICES OF LABOR. 
 
 o^Kc 
 
 XCAVATING CELLARS.— This is estimated by 
 the cord of 128 cubic feet, by the square foot, or 
 square yard. One to two dollars per cord is 
 usually paid, according to hardness of the subsoil. 
 Drains, — So much per lineal foot, according 
 to depth and hardness of subsoil. Pipes for 
 drains cost in proportion to their size. 
 
 Stone-ivork for foundations, — Usually 16| 
 
 cubic feet, estimated at so much per perch, laid 
 
 in the wall, and costs according to kind and 
 
 quality of stone. 
 
 Briclc-work — Is figured by number of cubic feet in the 
 
 wall, 22 common brick to the foot. Prices for laying up 
 
 the wall vary with cost of labor. 
 
 Plastering. — This is estimated by the square yard, — for 
 three-coat work, twenty-five cents; and two-coat work, 
 twenty cents per square foot, including mortar. Stucco or 
 plaster cornice work, from thirty cents up, per lineal foot. 
 
 [611 
 
6C OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 For center-pieces of stucco, the cost is two dollars and 
 upward. 
 
 Carpenter-work. — For framing, compute the number of 
 feet of board measure in frame, and to the cost of this add 
 eight dollars per thousand feet for ordinary framing. For 
 brick walls, allow five dollars per thousand feet for labor; for 
 common boarding of walls, roofs, and rough floors, add to the 
 cost of boards four dollars per thousand feet for labor ; for 
 shingles, one dollar and fifty cents per thousand for laying. 
 
 Cornicing — -Must be estimated at so much per lineal foot, 
 and costs according to the amount of work. 
 
 Windows — Are reckoned by the piece, considering finish 
 inside and out, all complete save the glazing. 
 
 Doors. — Double doors for entrance, if of pine, are twelve 
 dollars per pair upward, according to style, — walnut, from 
 thirty dollars upward; common doors, from six dollars up- 
 ward; inside sliding doors, from twenty dollars per pair, 
 upward, according to finish. 
 
 Floors, — Laid, add one dollar to cost of every ten square 
 feet of lumber. For base, the cost is so much per lineal foot 
 for lumber, and three dollars per hundred feet put down ; 
 wainscoting, so much per square foot. 
 
 Staircases. — Common, straight, cylinder staircases, 
 with curved rail, and casings at all angles of stringers, and 
 common newel posts and turned banisters, cost about forty- 
 five dollars; winding stairs, ninety dollars; and so on, the 
 cost varying with the amount of work. 
 
 Bay-windows, — One story, forty -five dollars ; two stories, 
 eighty-five dollars. 
 
 Clapboarding or weather-boarding. — For this work, 
 add to cost of lumber ten dollars per thousand feet, but if 
 much fitting Ls required this amount will not be enough. 
 
METHODS OF ESTIMATING WORK. 63 
 
 Painting — Is computed at so much a square yard ; and 
 for glazing, take the size and consult .some good dealer or a 
 good price list. 
 
 Cresting — Costs so much per lineal foot. 
 
 Hardware and plumbing — Cost according to the 
 quality of material and the amount of work. 
 
 In the foregoing estimate the prices quoted are perhaps 
 an average ; in the country the cost will usually be less. 
 
 Measuring. 
 
 A foot of lumber is a piece 12 inches square and 1 inch 
 thick; a board 12 inches wide, 1 inch thick, and 10 feet long- 
 contains 10 feet of lumber. 
 
 To measure boards, — Multiply the length in feet by the 
 width in inches, and divide by 12; the result is the number 
 of feet in the board if 1 inch thick; if 1^ inches thick, add 
 \; if l£ inch thick, add \\ if 2 inches thick, the board will 
 contain twice as many feet, and so on. 
 
 To measure a pile of lumber. — If the boards are of 
 equal length and width, multiply the feet in one board by 
 the number of boards, ^f the boards are of equal length, 
 but vary in width, measure each board with a tape-line, 
 drawing it out as each board is measured ; and when the pile 
 is completed, examine the tape-line, find how many feet you 
 have measured off, and multiply this by the length, in feet, 
 of one board. If the boards vary in length, they must be 
 measured separately, or averaged. 
 
 To find number of feet in studding, etc. — Multiply 
 length and breadth in inches by length in feet, and divide 
 the product by 1 2. The result will be number of feet in the 
 stick. 
 
64 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 To find how many feet of lumber a log will make. — 
 Take the average diameter in inches and subtract 4, square 
 one-fourth of the remainder, and multiply by the length of 
 the log in feet. The result will be the correct number of feet 
 that the log will make. 
 
 Amount of lumber for a given building. — By apply- 
 ing the foregoing rules, any one may find the number of feet 
 of lumber required for a given building. Begin with sills, 
 and calculate for each kind of lumber separately, adding the 
 results. For clapboarding, add one-third for lapping; for 
 matched flooring, add one-fifth for waste. 
 
 Shingles. — The number of shingles required for a roof 
 is usually estimated at one thousand for every square, or one 
 hundred square feet; hence, find the square feet in the roof 
 and divide by one hundred, — result is the number of thou- 
 sand shingles. This estimate is ample, and with good shin- 
 gles 1000 should lay 125 to 140 feet. 
 
 Or, find the area in inches, multiply the width of a 
 shingle by the length exposed to the weather, and clivide the 
 area by the product. This gives the number of shingles, 
 but there must be allowance made for waste. Shingles are 
 laid from three to six inches to the weather, according to 
 length, and they vary in width, four inches being the 
 average width. 
 
 For clapboarding, — Add one-third to the number of 
 surface feet to be covered, for boards, 6 inches wide, laid 4| 
 inches to the weather. 
 
 For flooring, — add one-fifth to the surface feet, for 
 matching. 
 
 In plastering — It is customary to compute the whole 
 area and deduct one-half the area of doors and windows, but 
 in some places no deduction is made. 
 
CLxFmF^KK IX. 
 
 CHOUSE PAINTING,^ 
 
 ITS PHILOSOPHY. — BEST TIME TO PAINT. — KINDS OF 
 PAINT. — COLORS. — MIXING. — OILS AND DRIERS. — APPLY- 
 ING PAINTS. — PRIMING. — SECOND COAT. — FINISHING 
 COAT. — BRUSHES. — GENERAL SUGGESTIONS. 
 
 ^oXJ^c 
 
 AINT, composed of a mixture of oil and mineral, 
 generally white lead, and applied to wood, iron, 
 and even stone, acts as a preserver by shielding 
 the surface from the action of rain and the 
 atmosphere. 
 
 A building left unpainted any length of time, 
 absorbs moisture quickly ; and besides rendering 
 the rooms unhealthful, by reason of moisture, it 
 decays very rapidly. 
 
 The best time to apply paint is in the spring 
 or autumn. Cool weather, if dry, is better, as 
 the paint hardens naturally and presents a firmer surface to 
 the action of the elements. In summer, when exposed to 
 the sun, the oil in the paint soaks into the wood and leaves 
 the lead to crumble and wear off quickly ; yet if care is taken 
 to apply the paint at proper hours, the action of the sun will 
 affect it but little. 
 
 5 [65] 
 
6G OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Kinds of Paint. 
 
 Pure white lead is the base or body of all durable 
 paints, and is vastly superior to all others for first coats. 
 Owing to the fact, however, that it is prepared by an acid 
 process, it is not so good in a pure state for outside coats, as 
 it is in many cases not thoroughly washed and contains 
 more or less acid, and w T hen so exposed to sun and rain the 
 presence of the acid is liable to make it powder and rub off 
 like whitewash. 
 
 Zinc, which is prepared by fire process (oxidized), con- 
 tains no acid or other injurious substance; and when mixed 
 with white lead, it forms the best outside coats, the zinc 
 neutralizing the acid in the lead and giving additional firm- 
 ness to the body. 
 
 The mineral paints contain iron as their base, and are 
 mixed with oil and prepared for use as lead and zinc. 
 Many manufacturers now put up paint in cans, ready for 
 use, and there is abundant room for deception. Consumers 
 should beware and purchase of reliable dealers. 
 
 Coloes. 
 
 Which color should be used in painting a house, is 
 purely a matter of taste. The surroundings determine this 
 to a great degree. A house surrounded with heavy foliage 
 would require a lighter tint than one standing in an open 
 space. Every house should have two or more tints; the 
 cornice and verandas should be of a contrasting shade with 
 the body of the house, while the shutters, etc., should have a 
 darker tint than either. Of the various colors, the olive tints 
 in their different shades are very pleasing to the eye, also 
 
HOUSE PAINTING. 67 
 
 lavender, drabs, stone, etc. A pea-green is a very healthful 
 color, and with proper contrasts in veranda and shutters is 
 very pleasing. 
 
 Mixing Colors. 
 
 An endless variety of colors and tints can be produced 
 by mixing. The following are only a few of them, — such 
 as may be serviceable: — 
 
 Stone Color. — White lead and a little black. 
 
 Drab. — White lead with burnt umber and a little yellow 
 ochre for a warm tint ; ' raw umber and a little black for a 
 green tint. 
 
 Sky-blue. — White lead with Prussian blue. 
 
 Buf. — White lead with yellow ochre. 
 
 Cream-color. — Add more white to the buff. 
 
 Olive-green. — Raw umber with Prussian blue, thinned 
 with boiled oil and turpentine. 
 
 Pea-green. — White lead with Prussian blue and chrome- 
 yellow. 
 
 Lead Color. — White lead and black. 
 
 Oils and Driers. 
 
 Oils and turpentine should be pure and free from dust 
 and other substances. 
 
 To assist the process of drying paints, driers are used. 
 Those most in use are sugar of lead, litharge, and white 
 copperas. When ground and mixed with paint, they assist 
 the process of drying very much. Where it does not affect 
 the color, red lead may be used as a drier. 
 
 Boiled linseed oil with litharge, one gallon of the 
 former with one-fourth pound of the latter reduced to a 
 powder, makes an excellent drier. It should here be 
 
68 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 remarked that driers have a tendency to injure the colors, 
 and hence should not be used in finishing coats. 
 
 Applying Paints. 
 
 Before applying paint, the surface to be painted should 
 be carefully cleaned, and all projections of glue, putty, and 
 whiting removed with knife and duster. 
 
 Knots should be killed by the application of knotting. 
 which is made with red lead, carefully ground and thinned 
 with boiled oil ; another and better plan is to apply a varnish 
 of shellac. 
 
 If knots are neglected, they give out turpentine and 
 destroy the paint. Shellac is a gum, in natural state, and 
 can be dissolved in alcohol in the proportion of three pounds 
 of gum to one gallon of spirits ; twenty -four hours is suffi- 
 cient time to dissolve it, when it is known as shellac varnish, 
 and by adding proper coloring matter, it forms an excellent 
 varnish for many purposes. Paint should never be applied 
 to damp or wet surfaces, as it is sure to peel off. 
 
 Priming. 
 After the knotting is complete, the priming, or first coat, 
 should be applied. This coat should be composed chiefly of 
 white lead, mixed with a very small quantity of red lead, 
 and should be about the thickness of milk. Eight to twelve 
 gallons of oil to every one hundred pounds of lead, is about 
 the proportion ; and one pound should cover fifteen to twenty 
 square yards. It is not necessary that this first or priming 
 coat should be of the color intended for finishing, as the 
 later coats will secure the desired tint. In some cases a 
 second priming coat, thinner than the first, is laid on, in 
 which case two coats more will make an extra good job of 
 painting. 
 
HOUSE PAINTING. 60 
 
 After the priming coat is quite dry, all nail-holes, cracks, 
 and other defects should be filled with putty, smoothing all 
 rough places with fine sand-paper. In priming old walls, 
 remove dirt and decayed wood with sand-paper and pumice- 
 stone ; shellac sizing may also be applied if the wood is some- 
 what porous, and more red lead used than on first coat for 
 new work. 
 
 If brick buildings are to be painted, the priming coat 
 should be native minerals, such as ochres, Venetian red, or 
 iron, with a proper amount of raw linseed oil, as these will 
 adhere more permanently and make a good foundation for 
 future coats. 
 
 Second Coat. 
 
 This coat is a color coat, and the tint, if paint is not 
 already prepared with desired color, can be made from the 
 directions previously given for mixing colors. This coat 
 should be a shade darker than the finishing coat. 
 
 The paint for this coat should be moderately thick; if 
 applied in cold weather or under unfavorable circumstances, 
 the quantity of driers must be increased. If the work is to 
 be left shining, this coat should be thinned almost entirely 
 with linseed-oil, in which case no driers will be needed. 
 
 Finishing Coat. 
 
 If the work is to be glossy when finished, use more oil 
 than turpentine and no driers ; but if the work is not to be 
 glossy, — -fiat, — use turpentine for thinning. Care should be 
 taken to bring this coat to the desired tint, and it should be 
 laid on j ust as soon as the former coat is dry enough to work 
 over. This coat should be of same consistency of the pre- 
 ceding, and laid on with the utmost care. 
 
70 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Bkushes. 
 
 Brushes are made of all sizes, both round and flat, and 
 are chiefly of bristles; the best for outside work are 
 called wall-brushes, from three to five inches in width. For 
 inside and small work the round brush is best. When out 
 of use, brushes should be carefully washed in turpentine and 
 laid out of the reach of dust. When using, they should be 
 left over night immersed in linseed oil or turpentine. 
 
 Varnish brushes should be washed in turpentine, and 
 should they be left full of varnish and dry they may be 
 cleaned by soaking in alcohol for twenty-four to thirty-six 
 hours. Where it is practicable, a separate brush should be 
 used in different colors ; especially is this true where delicate 
 tints are used. 
 
 General Suggestions on Outside Painting. 
 
 Posts and pillars may be made to represent stone, by the 
 following process : Procure a hand bellows, mash the nozzle 
 down flat; into the nozzle, two inches from end, solder a 
 small funnel, and before the finishing coat of paint dries, 
 throw white sand by means of the funnel and bellows 
 against the pillar. The sand will adhere, and when dry, 
 the work resembles stone very closely. By procuring col- 
 ored sand, pleasing combinations can be made. 
 
 For barns and other out-houses, the best paints are those 
 which contain iron as a base, as the boards are usually 
 rough and this class of paints generally protects such sur- 
 faces as well or better than the finer paints, besides being 
 cheaper. Brushes should be heavy, as they wear very rap- 
 idly. In this class of work, a variety of colors costs no more, 
 and adds greatly to the appearance of the work. 
 
HOUSE PAINTING. 71 
 
 Inside Painting. 
 
 Hard woods, as walnut, ash, and oak, look quite well in 
 oil -finish, which is always popular, and preserves the wood 
 quite well. The wood should be well filled with a mixture 
 of gilder's whiting, or corn-starch and boiled linseed oil to 
 the consistency of cream, applied with a brush ; after stand- 
 ing a little while, the work should be thoroughly wiped off 
 with woolen rags. 
 
 After standing a week, or till well dried, the work 
 should be well sand-papered with No. \ sand-paper or hair- 
 cloth, when another coat should be applied and rubbed off 
 as before. When dry, the work is ready for the finishing 
 or gloss coat, which consists of boiled oil, applied with a soft 
 brush, and if a dead gloss is wanted, this coat should be 
 rubbed with soft woolen rags. If high gloss is desired, omit 
 the rubbing and repeat the coat. Coach varnish will give 
 a high gloss, but it is liable to damage from scratches. 
 
 Plastered walls may be painted any desirable tint by ob- 
 serving the foregoing directions ; it may be well to observe 
 that plaster soaks up more paint than wood, and hence re- 
 quires more coats after the first coat. It is well to give the 
 work a light glue size before applying the next coat, as it 
 will give a much more even gloss. 
 
 Oil and Shellac Finish. 
 
 A very cheap and at the same time a popular method of 
 finishing inside wood- work, is to apply one coat of boiled oil, 
 and when dry, apply a finishing coat of varnish and oil 
 mixed, or shellac varnish alone. The natural grain of the 
 wood is preserved, and it can be kept clean easily; the wood 
 when thus finished is a shade darker than its natural color. 
 
 Another plan is to apply two coats of varnish, without 
 the oil, leaving the wood very glossy, but liable to scratch 
 easily. If ever desirable afterward, the wood can be painted 
 as usual. 
 
72 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Graining. 
 
 draining is a tedious but not too difficult business for 
 a person of ordinary intelligence to attempt with a fair 
 degree of success. In the outset, a clear idea of the wood to 
 be represented, should be in mind. A good plan, where the 
 commoner woods are to be represented, is to procure a 
 board having one or more sound knots and plane it off, and 
 with this for a model,- proceed to grain the job in hand. 
 
 Before the graining properly commences, the work 
 should be made very smooth with sand-paper and putty, 
 and one or more priming coats of white lead should be laid 
 on and allowed to dry; the work is then ready for ground 
 coat. 
 
 The Tools. 
 
 These are few and comparatively inexpensive, — besides the 
 brushes necessary for applying the color, steel combs, coarse 
 and fine, and soft, cotton rags. 
 
 The brushes and combs can be found at any store where 
 paints are sold. Formerly a leather comb was used, and 
 may be desirable; if so, any one can make it, using stiff 
 leather. 
 
 The Ground. 
 
 This is the base of the graining, and should be as near 
 the color of the wood as possible, care being taken not to get 
 it too dark. 
 
 The ground for maple, ash, and oak is about the same, 
 a light cream for the maple and a shade darker for the oak 
 and ash ; walnut ground is of a deep copper color. 
 
HOUSE PAINTING. 73 
 
 The Graining Color, 
 
 or the color which shows the veins and growth of the wood, 
 is the most important, as the delicate lines of the wood are to 
 be traced in it. When the ground has been laid on and is 
 quite dry, this graining coat is laid on, and while yet moist, 
 the tracings of the peculiarities of the wood are made. 
 
 Before proceeding to give specific instructions, it may be 
 well to note a few general suggestions on the figuring of 
 woods. 
 
 Knots should have a dark center with a succession of 
 very irregular circles, which on the outer edge become 
 elongated till they merge into the sap of the timber length- 
 wise. 
 
 The sap, which in the natural wood is the smooth, 
 shining part of the board, is made by wiping off the grain- 
 ing coat with a cotton rag drawn over the thumb, the nail 
 of which is made to outline the sap, while by means of the 
 fleshy part the broader lights of sap may be wiped out, 
 observing to move the rag with every stroke to present a 
 clean surface for the next. After having wiped the figures, 
 they should be retouched with a small roll of clean rag. 
 
 Veining or Combing. 
 
 Take a coarse steel or leather comb and draw it down 
 lengthwise of the wood, and go over the same with a finer 
 comb. Next take a fine comb and go over this work ; at 
 irregular intervals give the comb a quick wavy motion, 
 diagonally, thus imitating the growths of the wood. In all 
 cases the combing should precede the sap work. 
 
74 our homes and their adornments. 
 
 Ash Graining. 
 
 Ground. — White lead, raw Italian sienna, or golden 
 ochre instead of sienna, mixed with turpentine and oil, 
 using small proportions of oil. To get the desired color, 
 which should be a light straw tint, keep adding sienna to 
 the lead, and try it frequently on a board. ■ Apply with a 
 brush very smoothly. Observe that this ground is the same 
 also for light oak and maple. 
 
 Graining Color. — Raw sienna, burnt umber, and white 
 lead mixed with turpentine and very little oil form the grain- 
 ing color. The tint is darker than the ground tint, and is 
 made in the same way. The graining coat must be put on 
 in small quantity so that the work may be done before it 
 dries. 
 
 To prevent the paint from running, add a small quantity 
 of soft soap. Proceed, with the graining as in foregoing 
 instructions, and if a mistake is made, apply more paint and 
 begin anew. Apply one or more coats of varnish. 
 
 Old Oak. 
 
 Ground. — Raw sienna, burnt umber, white lead, and 
 Venetian red ; mix with equal parts of turpentine and oil to 
 the desired tint. Let this dry well. 
 
 Grain. — Vandyke brown, and raw sienna, turpentine, 
 and small amount of oil. 
 
 Bird's-eye Maple. — Destemper. 
 
 Ground. — White lead, yellow ochre, or same as for ash. 
 
 : care not to get it too dark. 
 
 Grain. — Equal parts of raw sienna and burnt umber, 
 
HOUSE FAINT TNG. 75 
 
 mixed with ale or beer. Have two paint buckets and make 
 two thicknesses of paint. 
 
 Lay on the thin coat first evenly, then with a smaller 
 brush put in the darker shades. The eye is made by 
 dabbing the color with the tips of the fingers; shade the 
 eye with a little burnt sienna, using a small hair pencil. 
 When dry, varnish. 
 
 Mahogany. — 1. Vandyke brown and a little crimson 
 lake ground in ale, laid on, allowed to dry, and then 
 smoothed, forms the ground. Then lay on a second thicker 
 coat, soften with a badger-hair brush, take out the lights 
 while it is wet, and imitate the feathery appearance of 
 mahogany heart. Soften, and top grain with Vandyke 
 brown laid on with an over-graining brush of flat hog-hair 
 combed into detached tufts. In sof tening- be careful not to 
 disturb the under color. Or, 2. Grind burnt sienna and 
 Vandyke brown in ale, lay on a coat, mottle with a camel- 
 hair mottler, and soften. When dry, over-grain as above. 
 
 For the proper varnishes to use, the reader is referred to 
 that department of this work. 
 
 It is a matter of great difficulty to prevent varnish on 
 outside doors from t cracking; for this reason, painters 
 recommend that a coat of oil be applied instead, and where 
 it becomes dingy, apply more oil with a rag. This will 
 avoid the cracking and preserve the graining. 
 
 Doors of the parlor may be ebonized if the furniture and 
 carpets will harmonize with it. (See Varnishes and Wood 
 Dyes.) 
 
Q HApTRR ]^ # 
 
 DESCRIPTIONS AND SPECIFICATIONS CONTINUED. — LATHING 
 AND PLASTERING. — CARPENTER WORK. — TIN ROOFS. — 
 CRESTINGS AND FINIALS. — DOORS, WINDOWS, BLINDS, 
 AND SHUTTERS. — INSIDE FINISH. — MAIN ROOM AND 
 KITCHEN. — PLUMBING. — GLAZING. — STORM DOORS. 
 
 0>»<C 
 
 ATHING and Plastering. — In wooden build- 
 ings the walls should be made even, so that 
 when the plastering is put on, the wall will 
 present no "ins and outs." This may be effected 
 by trimming all the timbers down to an equal 
 width before lathing. 
 
 Stone and brick walls should be furred with 
 strips; for brick they are one by two inches, 
 nailed to the bond timbers laid in the walls, once 
 in nine or ten courses, as they are built up, and 
 for stone two by four inches, nailed to plugs 
 
 or wedges, built up with or driven into the walls. These 
 
 furring strips are placed sixteen inches apart from center to 
 
 center, and the lathing nailed to them. 
 
 In the best houses it is customary to cross-fur on ceiling 
 
 joists, as when done, the plastering is less liable to crack. 
 
 [76] 
 
CONTRACTS WITH THE CARPENTER, 77 
 
 Laths should be made of spruce, pine, or other soft woods, 
 and thoroughly seasoned and dried. The mortar should be 
 made of first quality of quicklime and good sharp sand, 
 mixed with plenty of long hair. Ceilings should first be 
 gauged with a mortar of plaster-of- Paris and lime, followed 
 by a coat of broivning, or common mortar, and finished 
 with a white, hard putty coat made of plaster and quicklime. 
 In the better class of houses, three coats are given to the 
 ceilings, and two to the walls; this prevents the laths from 
 showing through the plaster. All angles should be smoothed 
 down, and corners made straight and true. Stucco cornice 
 and plaster ornaments for ceilings are giving way to paper, 
 which is now prepared in beautiful designs expressly for 
 ceilings. 
 
 Carpenter Work. 
 
 In most parts of the country it is usually the custom to 
 let the contract for building wooden houses to the carpenter, 
 who is frequently a contractor, and sub-contracts the erec- 
 tion to other parties. 
 
 There is one evil in this method, against which we wish 
 to caution our readers, viz: When the contractor gets the 
 whole job in his hands, he is too liable to seek the lowest 
 priced sub-contractor for the different kinds of work, such as 
 plastering, painting, etc., and the result is a poor job 
 throughout. The only remedy for this is to have the con- 
 tractor select his subbuilders, and then learn whether they 
 are trustworthy before awarding him the contract. 
 
 Another plan is to contract the different kinds of work 
 separately, thus securing a better job, as no speculation is 
 involved. 
 
78 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Framing Timbers. 
 
 These may be of any lasting wood, and hence the kind 
 most readily obtained will be used ; spruce, pine, whitewood, 
 poplar, or oak, is suitable. In many localities it is custom- 
 ary to use sills containing about twice as much material 
 as is necessary. If the foundation is properly made, of 
 brick or stone, the sills may be two by six inches, but if the 
 house is built on piers or posts, the sills should be six by 
 eight inches, or eight inches square, with the corners framed 
 together, and the joists framed in even w r ith top of sills. 
 When smaller timbers are used on brick foundation, the 
 flooring joists are not framed in, but rest on top of sills. 
 
 The studding should be of good sound wood, free from 
 many knots, two by four inches, cut to an even length, and 
 gained on the side for ledger boards which support second 
 story joists. Each studding should be nailed to the sill 
 with four tenpenny nails; this we believe to be better than 
 the old plan of mortising into the sills, as in that case they 
 are framed very loose, and cannot stand so much rough 
 usage. 
 
 The plates for rafters to rest upon should be two by four 
 inches, and should be doubled, and spiked down to each 
 studding with thirty-penny nails. 
 
 The ledger boards, supporting the joists of second story 
 should be of the soundest material, one by five inches, let 
 into the studding and spiked to them. 
 
 The first and second story joists should be two by ten 
 inches, and the attic joists two by six inches. The joist of 
 second story should be spiked to the studding with thirty- 
 penny nails. The rafters, if for shingles, should be two by 
 
CARPENTER WORK. 70 
 
 four inches, but if for slate, two by six ; in either case they 
 should be set sixteen inches apart, center to center, and 
 collared with sound boards nailed to every other pair. At 
 doors and windows the studding should be doubled to give 
 more strength for casings; and where partitions are placed, 
 the floor joists should be doubled. 
 
 Boarding for outside walls should be of sound pine, 
 spruce, hemlock, or whitewood, one inch thick, planed on 
 one side, laid close joint, and nailed on both edges at every 
 bearing. The same kind of boards should be used for 
 covering the rafters, but the joints should be laid open; and 
 if floors are to be laid double, this kind of boarding will 
 answer for bottom floor, and the attic floor will need no 
 other flooring. 
 
 Sheathing Paper, see page 42. 
 
 Shingle Roofing, see page 42. 
 
 Clapboarding, see page 43. 
 
 Slate roofs, when of first-class slate, well laid, and all 
 joints perfectly fitted, are the most desirable of all There 
 are many varieties of slate, and, like Joseph's coat, of many 
 colors. It has been the custom to use these different colored 
 slates, arranged in pleasing figures, and presenting a very 
 good effect, but. we are inclined to prefer the jet black slate; 
 nothing is richer, and the color will fade but slightly. 
 
 The slate should be seven by fourteen inches, cut to any 
 desirable pattern on exposed ends, round, hexagonal, or 
 clipped on the corners. Slate should be laid two and a half 
 inches head cover, that is, each slate should lap over the 
 second one below it that distance, and if the roof is not 
 steep, three-inch laps will be required. 
 
 The first course of slate must be doubled, and the last 
 
80 OUR HOMES AND THEM ADORNMENTS. 
 
 course and all small pieces used in fitting must be well 
 bedded in elastic cement, made and for sale for the purpose. 
 
 On gothic roofs, and in fact any roof where the roof 
 makes an angle, great care should be taken to have the slate 
 cut and set to a perfect joint; but as they can never be cut 
 so as to make a perfectly water-tight joint, each course must 
 be flashed under with tin, that is, tin must be bent over the 
 last course and extend up on sheathing so that the next 
 course will hide it. All valleys (gutters made by angles of 
 roofs) must of course be made of tin, and the slates neatly 
 fitted and set in cement. 
 
 In slating about chimneys, the tin should pass under the 
 slate and turn up against the bricks ; but this is not enough, 
 this tin against the bricks must be cap-flashed, or in other 
 words, the mortar must be dug out of bricks just above, and 
 tin or sheet lead inserted and turned down, then no leak can 
 occur. 
 
 For fire-proofing shingle roofs, see Recipes, Varnishes, 
 and Paints. 
 
 Tin Roofs and Trimmings. 
 
 Away from the salt atmosphere of the coast, tin makes 
 a good roof, and will last, if good and well put on, for a 
 long time. Owing to the fact, however, that there are many 
 inferior brands used, these roofs give out prematurely, and 
 in consequence, many condemn the material. The best 
 brands are M. F. Charcoal, I. X., and I. C, ranking in qual- 
 ity in order named ; the last is a thinner tin, not so good, of 
 course, but much used. 
 
 All portico, veranda, and bay-window roofs, and all 
 sunk gutters on same should be covered with tin. Tin all 
 window caps, turning it up four inches under the clapboards. 
 
CRESTINGS, DOOMS AND WINDOWS. at 
 
 The bay-windows require especial care, being so exposed 
 
 as to make it very difficult to protect them from leaking. The 
 
 tin must extend up under the clapboards, and around the 
 
 studding. 
 
 The conductors, leading water from the roof to the 
 
 ground, should be made of good material. I. X. tin will 
 
 answer, but corrugated galvanized iron, we think, is best, as 
 
 it will expand when water freezes in it, but will not burst. 
 
 All tin roofs and trimmings should be painted with mineral 
 
 paint as soon as they are put up. •• 
 
 ■ 
 Crestings and Finials. 
 
 The roofs of many buildings can be much improved in 
 appearance by the use of some one of the many neat designs 
 of ornamental iron crestings, to be supplied by hardware 
 dealers or manufacturers. Finials of either wood or iron 
 look well upon gables. 
 
 Staircases, see p. 51. 
 
 Floors, see p. 45. 
 
 Portico and veranda floors should be laid of stuff one and 
 one-fourth inches thick, and two and one-half inches wide; 
 the edges should be painted with white lead, and the floor 
 nailed blind, (i. e., in edges of boards, so that the nails will 
 not show). 
 
 Doors and Windows. 
 
 All styles of doors and windows are now ready-made 
 and are for sale everywhere, so it is only necessary to specify 
 in the contract with the builder the kind and style wanted, 
 unless special designs are desired. 
 
 Outside and sliding doors should be one and three-fourths 
 inches thick, and all other doors one and three-eighths inches 
 
 6 
 
82 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 thick. Material must be thoroughly kiln-dried, and free 
 from knots and sap. Window sash and frames should be 
 fitted snugly ; and above all, sash should be hung with cord 
 and pulley where the expense can possibly be borne. Sash 
 should be from one and three-eighths to one and three-fourths 
 inches thick. 
 
 If not hung with pulleys, windows should be supplied 
 with convenient locks to hold them at any desired height. 
 The casing and stops about windows should receive great 
 attention, as here is the place that usually admits much cold 
 in winter. 
 
 Blinds and Shutters. 
 
 These are very desirable; but there are difficulties in the 
 way of the use of inside blinds, as they may interfere with 
 the window drapery. They should be arranged to fold on 
 hinges, fourfold being most desirable. The slats should be 
 made horizontal, as they hold in place better when arranged 
 for the admission of light. 
 
 Outside shutters are usually one and one-fourth inches 
 thick, and should be made of the best material, and hung in 
 the most substantial manner. Like doors, blinds and shut- 
 ters are for sale ready-made, and in contracting, specifica- 
 tion should be made of style wanted. Neat locks or catches 
 should be put on both inside and outside shutters. 
 
 Inside Finish — Wood-Work. 
 
 Here is the department wh^re good taste will assert 
 itself. The wood finish of the different rooms should receive 
 due consideration in the plans and specifications, and definite 
 contract of what is to be done should be made with builder. 
 
INSIDE FINISH. 83 
 
 For buildings of medium cost, it will be more satisfac- 
 tory to finish in soft wood, and pine is the best. When 
 well smoothed down and varnished, it presents a beautiful 
 contrast with the furnishings; and as it is the cheapest, all 
 can afford it, nor should it be discarded by any because it 
 is cheap. It can be easily cleaned and re-varnished. 
 
 Main Rooms. 
 
 These should have molded architraves or casings on 
 doors and windows, of neat design, resting on plinth blocks 
 at the floor. Back plaster under the windows, and cover 
 this with a neat sunk panel, extending to the floor and fin- 
 ished with raised moldings. 
 
 Base boards should be paneled and finished with a neat 
 design of raised moldings on the top. Exposed or project- 
 ing corners of plastering should be covered with turned 
 beads of pine, extending four feet from base finished with 
 neat turned design on each end. 
 
 Second-floor chambers finished same as main rooms, with 
 architraves one inch narrower. 
 
 Kitchen. 
 
 This room should be wainscoted on all sides three feet 
 high, with matched and beaded sheathing, not to exceed 
 four inches in width, applied vertically, and the top finished 
 with a neat molded cap. 
 
 The pantry should be finished with one broad shelf, with 
 space beneath for flour barrel, which should be closed in its 
 place with a door, and from the broad shelf above cut a 
 door through to reach the barrel. Adjoining the barrel 
 under the shelf, place a tier of three drawers, and if the 
 
84 OUR HOMES sAND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 length of the pantry will permit, a cupboard may also be 
 placed under the shelf. Finish the space above with shelv- 
 ing, hooks, and other conveniences. The bath-room should 
 be wainscoted same as the kitchen, except behind the tub, 
 where it should be four feet high. 
 
 The bath-tub must be paneled in front with raised 
 molding and the top finished with a molded cap. The 
 water-closet should have seat and tight-closing cover, both 
 hinged to raise separately, and the riser in front paneled 
 like bath-tub, hinged at the bottom, and secured by catch 
 at top, for convenience in repairs. 
 
 The wash-basin should be supplied with neat paneled 
 door and one drawer. 
 
 The Mantel. 
 
 In the Eastern States, mantels of hard wood are now 
 quite popular, being gotten up very elaborately. Cheaper 
 ones can be made of less costly woods, and when finished 
 properly they look quite well. 
 
 The mantel-shelf should rest upon two uprights of wood 
 which form the sides of the mantel, and these should be 
 paneled and finished with raised moldings. The board im- 
 mediately under the mantel-shelf should also match them. 
 Our preference, however, is decidedly in favor of marbleized 
 slate mantels, which can now be obtained by any one at a 
 reasonable cost. 
 
 Further suggestions on mantels will be found under 
 House Fuknishing. 
 
 Plumbing and Fitting. 
 
 There is, perhaps, no department of house finishing upon 
 which the health and comfort of the inmates depends more 
 
PLUMBING AND FITTING. 85 
 
 than plumbing and fitting, and probably nothing is more 
 annoying and dangerous than a poor and incomplete job of 
 this work. 
 
 There is no part of the work connected with the erection 
 of dwellings, we are free to confess, that we so much dislike 
 to contract and superintend, and in a measure become re- 
 sponsible for, as the plumbing. 
 
 We recommend that this work be contracted separately, 
 and that none but the best workmen be allowed to figure on 
 the job; in addition to this, let the plans and specifications 
 for the work be complete, and carefully inspect the job as it 
 progresses. 
 
 We deem it unnecessary to go into a detailed description 
 of plumbing for city residences, as good, trustworthy work- 
 men, under the direction of the architect, will be able to 
 dictate what should be done, better than can here be 
 described. 
 
 For those who have not public water supply, we give a 
 few hints that will be of value; and here let it be remarked 
 that for the additional expense incurred, the increased com- 
 forts and better health will fully compensate the occupants. 
 
 Our description contemplates a bath-room, with hot and 
 cold water, and a water-closet, — one of the greatest con- 
 veniences of a house. The hot water attachments may be 
 left off, if expense cannot be borne, until the owner is better 
 able to incur the cost. 
 
 The greatest care should be taken in the connection of 
 the pipes, so that foul gases may not escape into the rooms. 
 A tank holding from two to ten barrels should be con- 
 structed in the attic above the bath-room, or in the top of 
 the bath-room, near the ceiling ; it should be in the attic if 
 
86 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 the building has a deck or flat roof so that the water may- 
 be conducted to the tank ; if a pitch roof, the tank must be 
 in bath-room. 
 
 The tank should be well supported with strong posts or 
 partitions, as otherwise the weight of water might cause 
 settling of building and cracking of the plaster work. 
 Line the tank inside with sheet lead or zinc, lead being 
 preferable. A wooden tank might be made by a first-class 
 workman, but it is not so durable, and more liable to leak. 
 Conducting pipes from roof must empty into the tank, and 
 a pipe from the force pump at cistern, or well, must also 
 empty into it for filling in case of long droughts. 
 
 A pipe to prevent the tank from overflowing should be 
 inserted near the top and led down to a drain or sewer ; its 
 capacity should be equal to the capacity of the conductors 
 from the roof, and it must have a trap, (simply a vertical 
 bend in the tube like the letter S,) to prevent sewer gas 
 from rising from the drain or sewer. 
 
 A three-quarter inch supply pipe must be sealed into the 
 bottom of the tank and led down to the bath-tub, where 
 branches should, be made to the water-closet and lavatory 
 (wash-basin). Faucets of the desired pattern should be 
 fixed at the bath-tub and lavatory. 
 
 Hot water may be obtained by setting a thirty or 
 forty gallon galvanized iron boiler in the kitchen, making 
 all necessary couplings with the stove for heating the water. 
 A pipe leading from the tank just described will keep the 
 boiler supplied, and force the hot water up into the bath- 
 room for supplying tub and wash-basin, and also for 
 cleaning and scrubbing purposes. 
 
 The bath-tub should be lined with ten-ounce planished 
 
PLUMBING AND FITTING. 87 
 
 copper, and a waste-pipe soldered into bottom of tub, and also 
 an overflow pipe near the top, both connecting below the 
 tub, and leading off to the soil pipe from water-closet. 
 
 Set a water-closet near the tub, (The best made are the 
 A. G. Alexander, and the Jennings water-closets, the first 
 being preferable,) and connect closet with a four-inch lead 
 S trap, which should be sealed into a four-inch iron soil pipe 
 extending down to, and sealed into the sewer; complete 
 by connecting the pipe from tank with the wash-pipe of 
 closet. 
 
 The lavatory, or basin, should be supplied with an over- 
 flow bowl, and the waste and overflow pipe should be 
 connected, S trapped, and let into the lead S trap in the 
 water-closet, and compression faucet connected with supply 
 pipe over the bowl. 
 
 A four-inch ventilating pipe made of No. 26 galvanized 
 iron, must be connected with S trap of water-closet, and ex- 
 tended at least four feet above the roof, terminating with a 
 cap. 
 
 Smaller ventilating tubes should connect bath and basin 
 trap with this large shaft. 
 
 Another ventilating shaft, nearly as large as the first, 
 should be connected with the space under and around the 
 water-closet, which is supposed to be boxed up, with a cover 
 to shut down on seat, and carried up into attic, and con- 
 nected with kitchen or other flue. 
 
 We have thus gone into particulars so that our readers, 
 not acquainted with such matters, may see how the object 
 desired may be obtained. The expense is not so great as 
 might be supposed, and by leaving out the hot water, as we 
 have said, it may be reduced; a further reduction, saving 
 
88 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 much, might be made by omitting the water-closet, but by 
 all means put it in. 
 
 Painting. — See House Paintixg. 
 
 Glazing. 
 
 Double thick glass, either French or American, is more 
 durable, and costs less, proportionately, than glass of single 
 thickness. 
 
 In main rooms, at least, the custom now is to make the 
 glass large, one pane to a sash, and two to a window; all 
 cost considered, it is about as cheap as to put in several panes 
 of smaller and thinner glass, and it is far better in appear- 
 ance. If the doors are to have cut glass panels, and it does 
 not add greatly to the cost to have them, each pane must be 
 bedded against putty, that is, putty is first put in around 
 the shoulder against which it rests, and the glass pressed down 
 against it and secured with glazier points, and then fastened 
 with putty; window-glass should be bedded in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Hardware. 
 
 The front door should have a good, brass face, or other 
 style lock and night latch combined and the knobs of the 
 door and door bell and the escutcheon, should be of genuine 
 bronze or other durable material. A door bell adds char- 
 acter to a house, and it is always a source of annoyance to 
 occupants and visitors to be compelled to rap, rap, rap, till 
 some one in the back part of the house hears and attends. 
 A good bell should be at least four inches in diameter, many 
 styles being for sale by dealers. 
 
 The front door should be hung with three butts, four 
 
DOORS AND HANGINGS. 89 
 
 and a half inches square, of real bronze or .Berlin bronze, 
 and if the door is double, the stationary door, or wing, should 
 be provided with good strong bolts at top and bottom. 
 Sliding inside doors are very convenient, but to act well, 
 must be built in with the walls and must slide on anti- 
 friction rollers, run on brass or other solid track. 
 
 Knobs are made of a variety of materials; bronze, por- 
 celain, lava, and turned wood are appropriate and durable. 
 Sash locks are useful, and should be placed on every window; 
 we think the Morris sash lock the best. Cellar and all 
 other doors requiring rough usage, should be swung with 
 wrought-iron butts. 
 
 Storm Doors. 
 
 In many parts of the country the use of storm doors is 
 unnecessary, as in the South, but in all of the Northern 
 States they should be put up on houses not provided with 
 vestibule entrances, on the approach of cold weather. They 
 economize fuel by preventing direct cold currents from the 
 entrance door. The storm door can be made by any one 
 who can handle tools ; and when once made, can be taken 
 down and put up each winter by the owner. It should be 
 made in sections, and these should be fastened to facings of 
 main door and to each other with hooks and staples. The 
 storm door itself should be self-closing so that from neglect 
 it may not be left open. 
 
 Our object in presenting the foregoing Descriptive Speci- 
 fications has been to set forth and explain the details of con- 
 struction, so that any one not employing an architect can 
 make out his specifications in such a way that the builder 
 will leave out nothing. It may also enable those who have 
 
90 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 plans and specifications made out by a builder or architect, 
 to examine the same in connection with these pages and see 
 if the quality of material and character of workmanship are 
 up to the standard, and whether any omissions have been 
 made. 
 
 In another part of the work will be found a Form of 
 Contract for building. It has the sanction of good builders, 
 and is pronounced good by a legal authority. 
 
Q HApTRR XI. 
 
 HEATING AND VENTILATION. — OPEN FIRE-PLACES. — GRATES 
 AND FURNACES. — STEAM HEATING. — HOW TO VENTI- 
 LATE. — IMPURE AIR. — NATURE'S DISINFECTANTS. 
 
 -OO&lC 
 
 1 HE old fire-place, with its cheery blaze and glow- 
 ing back log, and coals that assume ten thousand 
 fantastic shapes and pictures, all giving out an 
 abundance of heat, cannot be outdone by any 
 inventions of modern progress, we think, even 
 though more easy methods have been introduced. 
 In a location where wood is abundant, we ad- 
 vise house owners* to have a good, large, open 
 fire-place in the main living-room, as we think 
 this the nearest approach to a means of perfect 
 ventilation, the warm flue of the fire-place creat- 
 ing a strong draft from near the floor and carrying out the 
 foul air. Moreover, the influence of the open fire, with leap- 
 ing flames and glowing, crackling coals, draws the family 
 around its magic circle and brings the members a little 
 nearer each other. 
 
 Grates and Furnaces. 
 
 The nearest approach to the open fire-place is the grate 
 
 [91] 
 
92 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 for burning soft coal, and when arranged with its ash pit as 
 before described in this work, is very easy to keep clean. 
 This method of heating is now very general and answers 
 the purpose quite well. A good mantel and grate may be 
 obtained at from thirty dollars upward. 
 
 Heating furnaces, burning wood or hard coal, are very 
 much used also. Out of the many patterns made, some are 
 reasonably good, among which we would recommend the 
 Boynton, the Magee, the Ruby, and the Dome furnaces. 
 All modern styles have a reservoir for holding water, to be 
 evaporated into the hot-air chamber, and thereby moistening 
 the heated air and giving a warmth more like steam. With 
 old-style furnaces, the difficulty was that the air was burned 
 or vitiated, and thus rendered unfit to breathe. This ob- 
 stacle is mainly overcome in the modern furnace. 
 
 The furnace should have a cold-air supply-box or con- 
 ductor leading from the outside, and also a register in the 
 hall with conductor leading to the furnace. This will take 
 the cold air from the rooms when heating begins. The 
 supply conductor from outside should be ample, and should 
 have a cut-off for regulating the supply of cold air. 
 
 Most furnaces can be used without being covered with 
 brick ; but we advise, as a means of economizing heat, that 
 they be bricked in, first by a single four-inch wall, and 
 around this, with an air-space of ten inches between, an 
 eight-inch wall. This arrangement leaves a space between 
 the furnace and first wall, and the inside of this wall should 
 be covered with plaster-of-Paris, as it is a non-conductor 
 of heat. 
 
 The pipes conducting the hot air should be of tin or gal- 
 vanized iron, and should be let into the top of hot-air cham- 
 
// K. I TING WITH 8TJSA M. 93 
 
 ber over the furnace. The warm conductors leading to the 
 rooms of the first floor, open into a register in the floor, which 
 should be bricked in around, four inches from any wood. 
 The conductors to upper stories should be by means of tin 
 flues in the walls, and these should open by register into 
 rooms just above the base board. The smoke pipe should be 
 connected with the highest and largest flue in the house. 
 
 , Steam as a means of heating dwellings is comparatively 
 new and not very generally used yet outside of large cities. 
 In Detroit, and two or three other large cities, there is a 
 section of the city, covering an area of nearly one square 
 mile, successfully supplied with steam, by a Steam Supply 
 Company, from a battery of boilers all located in one build- 
 ing, the steam being carried in pipes laid under the pave- 
 ment. This method has been tested sufficiently to 
 demonstrate its superiority over all others as a means of 
 heating large buildings with many rooms. The ease with 
 which steam finds its way through pipes to the remotest 
 part of a building, without any sensible loss of heat, gives 
 it a great advantage over furnace heating. 
 
 The method is healthful, and with the present precautions 
 and use of low pressure boilers, no serious accident can 
 attend its use. The radiator pipes or drums for each room 
 are made in an endless variety of designs, painted, gilded, 
 and varnished; and while the cost of putting in a boiler and 
 pipes is greater, the saving of fuel and safety from fire will 
 soon repay the additional expense. 
 
 One hint may be profitably added here, to those who are 
 not accustomed to steam; every radiator must have, of 
 course, a place for the admission of steam, and this is always 
 supplied with a valve to turn off the steam and turn it on 
 
94 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 as occasion requires, and every radiator must have a small 
 air exhaust, at the opposite side or end from the valve. It 
 is sometimes omitted by the workman, but must be put in 
 or the register will not work. When the steam is turned on, 
 open this air exhaust until the steam drives out all the air, 
 and when the steam is turned off, open exhaust to let air in. 
 
 Ventilation. 
 
 The importance of pure air in our dwellings cannot be 
 overestimated; inventions without number have been made 
 and offered the public, and treatises without end have been 
 written, each of which, if we should credit the inventor or 
 author, afforded a perfect and the only possible means of 
 escape from death by foul air. One after another they have 
 been tried, and their adoption has resulted in failure and 
 elisappointment in too many cases, and yet many seem 
 to be looking for some patent self-regulating process or 
 device, which, without knowledge, attention, or thought, 
 .shall ventilate a dwelling. 
 
 The expectation must always meet with disappointment, 
 but with our present knowledge, and without waiting for 
 any new facts or inventions, we can apply our common 
 sense anel thereby devise plans to secure ah- reasonably pure 
 in our rooms. 
 
 The principal impurity in the air in our rooms, is 
 carbonic acid which is produced in the act of breathing, hence 
 it is being constantly thrown off, and if not removed from 
 the room it will soon vitiate all the air within. 
 
 In a nearly pure state carbonic acid is heavier than 
 air, and where the air is of an even temperature, it will 
 occupy the lower part of the room near the floor. Owing 
 to the fact, however, that in most cases the air is warmer in 
 
VENTILATION. 
 
 95 
 
 some parts of the room than in others, it is not at all 
 improbable that the carbonic acid diffuses itself throughout 
 the room. 
 
 The problem then is to remove this vitiated air, and 
 supply its place with pure air, by not subjecting the occu- 
 pants to cold draughts. To secure this end, ample means 
 of entrance and escape of air must be made. 
 
 v* L \J\m 
 
 t ;j 
 
 v 
 
 r ■ : * 
 
 Fig. i. 
 
 Tlie best means which can be provided, is the open fire 
 or grate for escape, as currents setting up the flue will 
 change the air very quickly if means of entrance are 
 provided by an open transom, a window lowered at the 
 top, or other means. 
 
 Our illustration shows an easy, cheap method of ventila- 
 
96 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 tion adapted to any building. Fasten a neat piece of wood 
 from 3 to 5 inches wide inside the bottom sash, fitting 
 it tightly at ends and bottom, and leave it far enough away 
 so that the sash will move up and down with ease, and if 
 there is half an inch between, it will only act the better. 
 
 When the lower sash is raised, the air rushes into the 
 room between the piece of wood set in and the sash, and 
 also at middle between the two sash, as shown by the 
 arrows pointing upward. It will be seen that the piece set 
 in prevents the air from coming in and striking the 
 occupants as a direct draught, as when the air strikes the 
 board, it deflects it upward. A weather strip could be 
 fastened to the bottom of sash between piece set in, and thus 
 admit air only between the two sash at middle of window. 
 If it is desired to establish an outward current, the top sash 
 may be lowered, when the air will pass out as indicated by 
 the four arrows. 
 
 The " revolving ventilator " which is sold at the hard- 
 ware stores, is recommended by many. It is inserted in a 
 circular hole cut in the glass near top of window. 
 
 Plenty of air should be admitted into the bed-room, — no 
 danger of " colds " when abundance of pure air and clean 
 bed-covers are at hand. Children's rooms should especially 
 be looked after in this respect, as we owe it to them to give 
 abundant supplies of nature's own disinfectants, — pure air 
 and water. 
 
 Rooms that have their doors opened and closed frequently, 
 as in the living-rooms, need but little attention in ventila- 
 tion. In the morning the windows and doors of bed-rooms 
 should be thrown open and allowed to remain so for some 
 time, to permit the pure air to thoroughly search every 
 nook and corner, and drive out impurities. 
 
CxFmi°TRre XII. 
 
 SITUATION AND SURROUNDINGS. — SELECTING A HEALTHY 
 SITE. — HOW TO SECURE GOOD DRAINAGE. — PURE WA- 
 TER. — DANGER FROM STAGNANT POOLS. — HOW A HOUSE 
 SHOULD FRONT. — SUNSHINE. — ITS VALUE. — SHADE 
 TREES. 
 
 ^x>>Kc 
 
 THER things being equal, high ground is always 
 preferable for a building site; but many things 
 must be taken into consideration in the location. 
 Old w T ater-courses, low, swampy grounds, and 
 dense forests should be avoided, as they are 
 fruitful sources of disease. It is not pleasant to 
 locate near a manufacturing concern, where the 
 din of resounding machinery fills the air with 
 discordant sounds, and where clouds of smoke 
 settle down at the most inopportune moments. 
 It is not best in cities to locate where a good 
 
 sewer is not accessible, for in time the difficulty in drainage 
 
 will become very annoying. 
 
 In the country there is not so much difficulty in securing 
 
 a desirable location. The first consideration should be good 
 
 drainage, and the soil and subsoil must be carefully exam- 
 
 [97] 
 
 I 
 
98 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 ined to this end. If the soil is gravelly or porous, and 
 the subsoil a hard clay, impervious to water, the site is not 
 a good one, for the surface water will simply settle down to 
 the clay and remain there, making the ground damp and 
 unhealthful. This may, however, be remedied to a great 
 extent by putting in tile drains, but it is best to find a good 
 porous or gravelly subsoil. 
 
 Where a good system of sewerage is maintained, the 
 drainage is of no consequence, as it is easy to secure almost 
 perfect immunity from damp premises. 
 
 The next consideration is a good and ample supply of 
 drinking water, and water for all domestic purposes; this is 
 of vital importance. It is far better to be at some expense 
 in bringing it from a distant spring or a running stream by 
 means of pipes, than to run any risk by the use of contam- 
 inated water. Many fine sites, in other respects very 
 desirable, are not deemed practical by reason of their loca- 
 tion on high ground away from water, but this difficulty 
 can usually be overcome if there is water within a reason- 
 able distance in a valley below, by means of a Hydraulic 
 Ram. 
 
 A well should not be located near any building unless 
 there is a perfect system of drainage for carrying off the 
 .surface water; neither is it safe to locate a well too near a 
 drain, as the incline of the surface or strata of subsoil may 
 allow the sewage to filter through into ' the well and con- 
 taminate the water. 
 
 In many parts of the country, where the lower strata is 
 gravel, and where the water is only a few feet down, drive 
 wells are put in by driving into the earth an iron pipe one 
 and a half inches in diameter, upon the end of which is 
 
DRAINAGE AND EXPOSURE. " 99 
 
 firmly screwed a sharp, steel-pointed head, the pipe for a 
 few inches above the steel-pointed head having small holes 
 for the admission of water. Water from this kind of wells 
 is usually pure, and no water from the surface can get in 
 to contaminate. Any system of drainage depends largely 
 upon a good supply of water for its effectiveness, and with- 
 out good drainage the best location will soon become 
 unhealthy. 
 
 A quick-running stream, if not subject to annoying or 
 dangerous overflows, is to be desired as an adjunct to a good 
 site, as it can be made the means of carrying off accumula- 
 tions of filth; but a sluggish stream, or standing water, 
 should be avoided, as danger lurks on their banks ; nor are 
 pools that are made for ornament to be trusted. 
 
 Lakes, if fed by rivulets or unseen springs at the bottom, 
 so that the water will not stagnate, may be most delightful 
 and reasonably healthful as adjuncts to building sites. 
 
 Exposure of a House. 
 
 . The exposure of a house, or the direction it fronts, and 
 the relative location of its principal rooms, has much to do 
 with the comfort of its inmates. 
 
 The greatest consideration is the admission of sunshine 
 into every room, if possible, sometime during the day. In 
 cities and towns where the streets run with the cardinal points 
 of the compass, a northwest corner, the house fronting south, 
 is the best location, next to which the west side of a street is 
 preferable, as the principal rooms may then be located on 
 the east and south exposures ; and if some room must be 
 located so that sunlight cannot enter, let it be the dinning- 
 room, for while we want it as pleasant as possible, we live 
 
100 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 in it less time than any other. The kitchen also may be 
 located on the cold side, as may the staircase and hall. 
 
 If the house should stand on the west side of street, on 
 an inside lot, the principal rooms should be on the south 
 side, if the house is on the east side, the exposure of the 
 principal rooms should be on the south and west, and for 
 sunshine this is really a better location than the foregoing, 
 but it has the disadvantage of being exposed to the intense 
 heat of the afternoon sun, which can in a measure be over- 
 come by shade-trees placed not too close to the house. 
 
 If the house is built on the north side of the street, the 
 house fronts south of course, and the principal rooms should 
 open to the east, allowing the morning sun to pour its full 
 rays into the rooms, just at the time of day when sunshine 
 is enjoyable; and as the day passes the sun will sweep 
 around and give the whole front and west side a bath, leav- 
 ing the east rooms cool and shady in the afternoon. There 
 are some disadvantages in locating a residence on the south 
 side of a street, for the winds of winter have full play upon 
 the parts where the principal rooms must be located ; and 
 yet this can be overcome by the use of double windows, and 
 by building a vestibule entrance, or a storm door. While 
 such houses may possibly be colder in winter they are more 
 pleasant in summer. 
 
 All houses should have verandas on the sides exposed to 
 the sun, if possible, and sleeping rooms so exposed, may be 
 rendered cooler by keeping out the hot rays by means of 
 awnings. 
 
 In the country, no obstacles are usually in the way to 
 securing the best possible location for sunlight. 
 
 The best frontings are either south or east, and if the 
 
LOCATING AND BEAUTIFYING. 
 
 101 
 
 house should be set in some other way than with the 
 cardinal points, there is no law by which the owner can be 
 compelled to turn it around. 
 
 The rooms must be so located as to secure the sunlight 
 to the best advantage, the style of the building and location 
 of trees having, of course, much to do in determining what 
 is best to do. 
 
 There is nothing, perhaps, that enhances the beauty of 
 houses more than trees and shrubbery when there is room 
 for them. Trees should not stand too near houses, nor 
 should then branches ever overhang, as they not only 
 damage the work and mar the beauty of outline, but they 
 also cause a dampness to settle around and into the house, 
 rendering it unhealthful. We think much of shade-trees, 
 out would keep them at a respectful distance from the 
 house; near enough to break the force of winter's winds, 
 and shelter from summer's sun. 
 
CxFLMTRR Xllf. 
 
 THE PRIMITIVE HOUSE. — OUR NOBLE ANCESTORS. — MODERN 
 RESIDENCES. — HOW TO BUILD A HOUSE AND MAKE AD- 
 DITIONS TO IT. — A SIMPLE COTTAGE. 
 
 -x>XKc 
 
 ANY of our readers are no doubt familiar with 
 the old-fashioned house built by our forefathers 
 — the log cabin. Our engraver has succeeded 
 very well in producing a good illustration, one 
 with its primitive surroundings. Who shall say 
 that its walls of rough logs, and its roof made of 
 rough puncheons held in place by poles, did not 
 shelter the best blood of our nation? And who 
 shall fail to revere the memory of those who 
 toiled in and reclaimed the wilderness from its 
 wildness, endured privations, poverty, and mis- 
 fortune, triumphed over obstacles almost insurmountable, 
 and made it possible for us to possess Our Homes and Their 
 Adornments ? 
 
 No architect had they to plan parlor, library, and 
 conservatory, no mills had they to cut, plane, match, and 
 fashion the lumber; but with ax and rude saw they hewed 
 from the tree each piece, patiently but perseveringly until 
 
 [102] 
 
OUR ANCESTORS. 
 
 103 
 
 the house was finished, — not in soft wood or hard, wood, not 
 in molded base or graceful architrave, but finished for such 
 comforts as they needed. 
 
 And the Mothers — all glory to their memory! — their 
 fingers were busy in interior decoration — not in making 
 applique work, not in painting plaques and panels, but in 
 providing such comforts as could be obtained. They took 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 as much pleasure and exhibited as much pride in their 
 graceful festoons of red-pepper pods and dried pumpkins, as 
 does the modern woman in her richly ornamented purtn : r< 
 or lambrequin. 
 
 Comfort never waited to be invited into such a house; 
 she entered and took up her abode there. Little use for 
 ventilating apparatus — the high piled open fire-place, roar- 
 
104 ' OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 ing and crackling, asserted its ability to assume all care of 
 the frequent change of air in the room, and as for inlets for 
 an, there were plenty of them. 
 
 The plans and specifications of such a house would 
 probably call for "solid walls of native timber carefully 
 srrooved and fitted at each corner so that no crack between 
 timbers should 'exceed six inches; the walls at the ends 
 carried up so as to give the roof the proper pitch ; the rafters 
 to be of poles, laid from end to end ; the roof to be of slabs, 
 lapped and the joints broken; the whole to be held in place 
 by good solid poles, well ' scotched ' and tied down at the 
 ends ; the floor to be made of well-smoothed slabs, laid close 
 and in a workman-like manner; the walls to be plastered 
 with good, tough red clay, carefully put on with the hands ; 
 the whole building to be completed and ready for occupancy 
 before the approach of cold weather." 
 
 Each man was his own architect, contractor, builder, and 
 finisher; yet the old log-house did not long content its 
 occupants, for after the " clearin' " was made and the fields 
 well under cultivation, the hewed log-house was built, and 
 perhaps after a few years a double hewed log-house was put 
 up, with well-fitted logs, and cracks filled, not with red clay, 
 but pure white, lime, burned from stone taken from the 
 quarry on the premises. 
 
 Thus the desire for better houses, and the ability to 
 possess them has grown, till by genius, industry, and 
 frugality, any family may possess their own home and 
 adorn it in a manner suited to their taste and means. To 
 all such, the several departments of this work are worth 
 perusal. 
 
PRAIRIE HOUSE. 
 
 105 
 
 DESIGN I.— A PRAIRIE HOUSE. 
 
 In the accompanying engravings we have, perhaps, 
 given a plan that may seem advisable for some of our 
 prairie readers to follow. 
 
 There is hardly any one settling on the prairies who could 
 not produce lumber sufficient to build a small "shanty," but 
 is deterred from doing so, for, he says, "I will be able in a 
 few years " — remember, the corn-growing and pork -pro- 
 ducing farmer of the West accumulates fast when once 
 started — " to build me a good, respectable house, and I Wte 
 
 Fig- 3- 
 
 to waste material upon something that will be nearly 
 useless then." It is to help this class of builders that our 
 designs are intended. 
 
 Fig. 3 represents a simple cottage of only one room, 
 which can be erected at a very trifling expense, even on the 
 prairies where lumber is high and scarce, and must be 
 hauled a long distance. It is 12x14 feet, and 7 feet 
 between joists, it will take material as follows: 800 feet of 
 
106 
 
 QUE HOMES AND THEIE ADOENMENTS. 
 
 inch boards @ S30 per thousand, $24; 4 sills, 6x9, and 4 
 beams, 6x6, 10 rafters, and 12 joists, $6; 2 panel doors 
 @$2.50 each, and 3 windows @ $1.50 each, $9.50; nails 
 and paper for roofing, $10.. Total, $49.50. 
 
 Here is a cost of about fifty dollars; and any man of 
 ordinary ingenuity can do all the work himself, with the 
 aid of a carpenter to case the windows, and case and hang 
 the doors. Let him first frame the sills and lay them upon 
 the foundation in proper position ; next frame the beams and 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 lay them upon the sills; then securely nail two boards 
 perpendicularly at each corner of the sills. 
 
 Use sixteen-foot boards, cut in the middle ; this will 
 make the building seven feet in the clear. Now cut four 
 stanchions seven feet long; and with the aid of one person 
 you can raise the beams one end at a time, slip under the 
 stanchions, and nail the tops of the boards that had been 
 previously nailed to the sills, securely to the beams, and you 
 
ADDITION TO PRAIRIE HOUSE. 
 
 10; 
 
 are ready to proceed with the planking, which any one can 
 do who can saw off a board and drive a nail. 
 
 For roofing, use saturated tar paper, which is manu- 
 factured expressly for it, and is for sale in all Western towns. 
 The cost is about one-fourth that of shingles; it is not as 
 good, but will last several years, when you can lay your 
 shingles right over it. 
 
 If you build in the spring or early summer, you can 
 omit the clapboards until the fall; but don't omit the 
 veranda. 
 
 o- 
 
 We are like an architectural gentleman who once went 
 into ecstacies over blinds. We have nothing rebutting to 
 show; it is a blind subject; but we think the crowning glory 
 of any house, large or small, is a veranda, or as the girl called 
 it, "our folks's stoop." So much for Fig. 3. 
 
 Now we will suppose our humble farmer, at the end of 
 one or two years, has acquired means to enlarge his humble 
 
108 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 domicile. This he can do, as shown in plan, Fig. 5, which 
 consists of his first erection with a lean-to of one bed-room, 
 a pantry, and a wood-shed. This can be erected upon the 
 same principle as the first. The reason we recommended 
 planking and clapboards in preference to studs and clap- 
 boarding, is that any one can build with planks ; but it will 
 require a professional carpenter to build a studded house. 
 
 Fig. 5 will make a very convenient house for a small 
 family. The inside can be finished with paper or plaster, to 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 suit the taste of the occupants. Again we will suppose that 
 "the lapse of years has brought round the time" when our 
 friend wishes to again enlarge his house. 
 
 If he has followed our former plans, he will do so, as 
 shown in Figs. 6 and 7. This consists of an upright part 
 added to his former erections. He now, of course, has 
 means sufficient at his command, and will call in the aid of 
 a practical architect. He can build this last part two stories 
 high if he wishes, but we would advise a low house in a 
 
ADDITION TO PRAIRIE HOUSE. 
 
 109 
 
 prairie country. We think this will make a very convenient 
 house, not devoid of beauty. 
 
 Plan, Fig. 3, is a room 12x14; V, veranda. 
 
 op 
 
 Plan, Fig. 5, K, living room, 12x14; B, bed-room, 8x9; 
 P, pantry, 8x8; W, S, wood-shed; V, veranda. 
 
110 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Plan, Fig. 6, L, living-room, 12x13; K, kitchen, 12 
 xl4; D, dining-room, 9^x12; B, B, B, bed- rooms, 9x8, and 
 8x8; S, P, summer pantry, 8x8; P, pantiy, 8x8; W, 
 wood-shed; V, V, veranda. 
 
 The summer pantry can be used in winter for a place to 
 keep meat, and as a store-room. Being away from the 
 kitchen fire, it will keep meat fresh a long time in suitable 
 weather. 
 
 The cost of the last design (the third addition) will not 
 exceed $1,500, and could probably be built for less if one 
 would do as much of the work as possible himself. 
 
Ghaptrr XIV. 
 
 AN ATTRACTIVE COTTAGE HOME FOR PEOPLE WITH SMALL 
 MEANS. — HOW CONSTRUCTED. — THE COST. — HOW TO 
 PAINT IT. 
 
 ^-DESIGN II,* 
 
 'E give in Figs. 8 and 9 illustrations of the 
 arrangement of the rooms on first floor, and 
 perspective view of front and principal side of 
 an attractive little cottage, neat and well pro- 
 portioned, simple in design, and easy of con- 
 struction, there being but little ornamental work 
 used, as shown in the elevation. A course of 
 sawed panels across the front, set in square 
 frame-work, and the projection of the second 
 story over bay, with its two large brackets on 
 either side, give a fine outline to the front, with 
 the relief of cut slat patterns under projection and over the 
 windows in front gable ; and this, together with the simple 
 cut figures in the entrance porch, is all the real ornamental 
 work on the house- The fact is that the exterior effect 
 in the cottage depends more upon the outlines of corners, 
 projections, and angles of roof, than upon anything else, and 
 
 is an example of what can be done without much ornamen- 
 
 [111] 
 
\\-2 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS- 
 
 tation and still claim merit from its attractiveness. The 
 roof should be shingled and painted a dark red, while the 
 body of the house should be painted an olive green, and the 
 trimmings, that is, cornices, corners, porch and bay-window, 
 a dark chocolate, with corners, or chamfers, where there ar<* 
 
 1- w 
 
 UfcCE 
 
 tO u — 
 
 aotc 
 
 Kl TCHEN 
 12,0 X 12.0 
 
 COAL 
 
 o=>u» 
 
 PANTRY 
 
 b 
 
 PORCH 
 
 LIVING ROOM 
 10 .6 X 14-. 
 
 Fig- 8. 
 
 any, in vermilion. The effect, if the house is standing 
 alone, with trees and shrubbery around, will be pleasing. 
 So much for the exterior. 
 
 Fig. 8 shows how the rooms are placed on first floor, 
 the porch opening into a lobby and from this either into 
 
DESIGN OF COTTAGE. 
 
 113 
 
 living-room or kitchen. We would suggest that it would 
 be a good plan to have a small room in the rear for cooking 
 in summer, which could be added at small expense. 
 
 Fig. 9. 
 
 The small room marked " coal " could, if thought advis- 
 able, be opened into the kitchen and used for a store-room. 
 A pantry of ample size will be found convenient, having 
 shelves on three sides, and also a good closet off' from living- 
 
114 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 room, and one under stairs, unless there is a cellar under the 
 house, in which case the stairs to the same would have to be 
 placed under the staircase leading to the second floor. 
 
 On the second floor there are two good sleeping-rooms, 
 there being a small hall at head of stairs extending along 
 side of stair- way to front room, and doors opening into this 
 and the rear bed-room immediately back of it. Two closets 
 are between the rooms, one for each. The rear chamber is 
 lighted with two windows, coming up into the roof, one on 
 the side and the other in the rear. 
 
 This completes the number of rooms, and we have four 
 good-sized rooms and plenty of closets. This we think an 
 excellent plan for a small family of little means, who are 
 desirous, if they cannot have so large a house, to have one 
 that possesses some degree of taste and refinement at least; 
 and there is no reason why the cottage homes of our people 
 should not be made more attractive when it can be done by 
 so little well-directed skill in planning and executing; for 
 many times the cottage, with its simple adornment, is the 
 abode of more genuine happiness than ever passed the thresh- 
 olds of some who live in palatial homes, and are surrounded 
 with all the luxury that money will buy. 
 
 This design would make a very good summer cottage, 
 if desired, in which case it would not necessarily need to be 
 plastered. At present prices, this house can be built here, 
 all complete, for six hundred dollars. 
 
Q HAPTRR XV. 
 
 A NEAT, SYMMETRICAL STORY-AND-A-HALF HOUSE AT MOD- 
 ERATE COST. — DESCRIPTION OF ITS ARRANGEMENT. — ■ 
 ITS ADVANTAGES OVER A ONE-STORY HOUSE. — SOME 
 NOVEL FEATURES. 
 
 DESIGN III. 
 
 | E present in Figs. 10 and 11, first and second floor 
 plans, with front elevation shown in Fig. 12, of 
 a story-and-a-half cottage. Two of these have 
 recently been completed for the author, for rent- 
 ing purposes, and he considers this design the 
 nearest approach to an ideal neat, cosey, tasty 
 cottage home that he has ever made, for the 
 amount they cost. 
 
 The house consists, as will be seen by refer- 
 ring to first-floor plan, Fig. 10, of portico L, 
 vestibule K, 5x5 ft., and opening into parlor A, 
 12x14 ft., and also to sitting or main living room B, 12x14 
 ft., which is connected with the parlor by a sliding door four 
 feet wide. Off the sitting-room is a bed-room D, 8x10 ft., 
 and a clothing closet G, under the stairs, for the accommoda- 
 tion of the same. 
 
 From the sitting-room, door I opens to an easy stair- way 
 
 [115] 
 
116 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 leading to second floor, and the door in rear opens into the 
 kitchen C, 13x14 ft., large enough to use for dining pur- 
 poses when desired. In one corner of the kitchen is an iron 
 sink with good drip-board at one end and a cupboard under 
 the sink. The chimney shown in kitchen is for the use of 
 both rooms, between which it is located. The kitchen stove 
 can .stand well up in the corner and leave plenty of room 
 for tables, etc. 
 
 Fig. 10. 
 
 F is a pantry, 4x7 ft., of ample size, with one broad 
 shelf, under which is a space inclosed with a door for a 
 barrel of flour, and a small door or ^op of shelf opening into 
 barrel. Also on the side of this door a tier of three drawers, 
 and plenty of open shelves and cleats, all around the three 
 sides. Door H opens to a stair-way leading down to a neat 
 little cellar, 12x14 ft., the walls of which are made of brick 
 
ST OR Y-AND-A-IIA LF 110 USE. 
 
 117 
 
 laid open, thereby effectually keeping out dampness and 
 frost. The floor is concreted, and a tile drain connected 
 with sewer laid inside of the walls. The door from the 
 kitchen in the rear opens out to a platform with steps lead- 
 ing down each way, one to the walk around to the front, 
 and the other to water-closet J, which is connected directly 
 with the sewer. 
 
 Fit 
 
 On the second floor we have, you will observe by refer- 
 ring to Fig. 11, ample hall room N, with window. The two 
 rooms marked, D, D, are sleeping-rooms, 12x14, and from the 
 hall is one large closet for both rooms. M is an unfinished 
 attic over kitchen, with door from the large closet, and is 
 used only for storing trunks or things not frequently wanted. 
 
 The compactness of the house makes it easy of access to 
 the different rooms and easy to warm ; indeed, one medium- 
 
118 0*712 HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS 
 
 size base burner, set in the living-room, will warm the whole 
 house, except the kitchen. In the ceiling, immediately over 
 the stove, we have a register opening into the room above, 
 and one in front room to the chamber over it; these regis- 
 ters can be closed during the day, and in the evening by 
 opening them and running the fire a little more briskly, the 
 sleeping-rooms can easily be made warm enough. 
 
 The objection is sometimes made that the sleeping- rooms 
 in a story-and-a-half house are too warm in summer ; such, 
 however, is not the case if the windows in these rooms are 
 arranged in the manner shown in Fig. 11, or in a similar 
 manner, with not less than two in a room and always on 
 two sides. If one window can face the south or west, so 
 much the better, as a good ventilation can be had at all 
 times. 
 
 The side walls are sixteen feet and six inches high from top 
 of sill to top of plate ; the first story is nine feet and six inches 
 between the floor joists, leaving the outside wall of second 
 floor six feet and four inches from floor to where the angle 
 of roof rests on the plates, and in the center the rooms are 
 nine feet high. The rear or kitchen part is twelve-foot 
 studding, thus leaving ample room in the attic for storing 
 purposes. We think the exterior presents nice and graceful 
 proportions. 
 
 The design depends for effect as much on the outline 
 and painting as upon anything else. Across the front and 
 sides is a water-table; and from this up to the window-sills, 
 the wall is sheathed with matched sheathing, and the sill 
 course extended around over this and cut into panels with 
 cross-bars in the manner shown in the elevation. The 
 window-casings connect with a band or belt course at the 
 
STORY- AN DA-HALF HOUSE. [ ] 9 
 
 caps, while the double window in the second story is con- 
 nected on each side with the caps of the two windows below, 
 by a piece cut in a symmetrical form; and in between these 
 the panel is covered with shingles cut in a neat pattern. 
 
 Fig 12. 
 
120 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 The gable is divided by a band and shingled in the same 
 manner, as is also the end of veranda. 
 
 On the top of the roof, over each gable, is placed a 
 neat finial of wood, and the gables are finished with a 
 verge-board of unique design, placed immediately back of 
 the facia. This gives a very pleasing appearance. The 
 front door has glass in top panel to light the vestibule. 
 Steps with rail and posts on each side lead up to the 
 veranda. 
 
 We have painted the house in the following manner: 
 The body, or parts of the house clapboarded, and the panels 
 under sill course, are an olive-green ; all trimmings, 
 including cornices, window-frames, bands, veranda, and 
 cross-pieces in panels, are a dark chocolate; the cut shingles 
 in gable and veranda are a bright red; while all the trim-, 
 mino-s of chocolate color have chamfers cut in with 
 vermilion, the sash also being vermilion. The effect and 
 harmony of these colors are very pleasing. 
 
 We wish to say a few words, comparing this six-room, 
 story-and-a-half house, costing, in Detroit, thirteen hundred 
 dollars, with a one-story cottage containing the same 
 number of rooms, all on the first floor, and costing the same 
 amount. 
 
 In the first place, the cottage must necessarily cover 
 more ground in order to obtain the same amount of room, 
 and this must be in width as well as length; hence the 
 advantage in building on narrow lots; we have much 
 more ground left for a lawn at the side, and also for a yard 
 in the rear, as well as more light and air, which are of con- 
 sideration. 
 
 In the second place, the height of the walls of a one- 
 
STORY-AND-A-HALF HO USE. 1 2 1 
 
 story cottage must be twelve feet, only four feet less than 
 the other ; the amount of roof must be as much more as 
 would be required to cover the amount of two sleeping- 
 rooms on first floor, (and these rooms cannot be as large as 
 those in the story-and-a-half house), usually with one win- 
 dow in a room, or if there are two, they must be on the 
 same side. The result will be small sleeping-rooms that can 
 never be ventilated as well as a room on the second floor, 
 with windows on two sides. 
 
 And again, do what you may in the way of embelish- 
 ment outside, you can never produce on the one-story build- 
 ing that symmetry of outline and beauty of proportion so 
 easily obtained in the other; therefore we think that these 
 considerations are decidedly in favor of the story-and-a-half 
 house, and worthy of the careful attention of any one 
 interested in this class of houses. 
 
 -*•*- 
 
 DESIGN IV.— STORY-AND-A-HALF HOUSE. 
 
 We follow here with another design of a story-and-a- 
 half house, the first floor plan being seen in Fig. 13, and a 
 fine perspective of the front and one side in Fig. 14, show- 
 ing the house and lawn as they actually appear when com- 
 pleted. This building is not so high as the one last 
 described, the posts being 14 feet, making the rooms on first 
 floor nine feet, and on the second, four feet and six inches 
 at the side, and eight feet six inches in the center of the 
 room. For the difference in cost we would not recommend 
 a house with rooms so low. The outside, while decidedly 
 plain, possesses something that commands attention. 
 
122 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 The broad, sheltering cornice gives to it the appearance 
 of ample protection from sun and storm; the hooded 
 windows in front and inviting porticoes with climbing vines 
 lend to it a charm which must impress one that the inmates 
 of a home like this should enjoy their share of worldly bless- 
 
 Fig. "3- 
 
 ings, such as belong only to those who have worked hard and 
 perhaps long to come into possession of such a place. 
 
 The outside walls are covered with clapboards, and the 
 roofs, including hood and porticoes, are all shingled. 
 
ARRANGEMENT OF ROOMS. 
 
 123 
 
 The first floor plan, Fig. 13, shows; 1 and 5, porticoes, 1 
 opening into front staircase haU, and 5 into parlor 3, -which 
 is 15 ft. square; this is connected with hall 2, 9x1 4 ft., with 
 a neat staircase to second floor and closet underneath. 
 
 Fig. 14- 
 
 From the parlor is a room for library 4, 11x14 ft., with 
 door to sitting-room 6, 15x16 ft., w T ith double window in 
 the rear, also door to hall and to kitchen 7, 9x16 ft., and 
 back of this, pantry 8, 5x9 ft. 
 
 On the second floor there are three good rooms, one over 
 
124 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 parlor and one over sitting-room, with a hall running cross- 
 wise of the building, from where the stairs land to the room 
 over the library. These rooms are all lighted from windows 
 in the gables, and each room is supplied with a commodious 
 closet. 
 
 At the present price of all kinds of material and labor, 
 this building; can be erected for about $900.00. 
 
Ghaptm XYf. 
 
 STORY-AND-A-HALF HOUSES CONTINUED. — A HOUSE THAT 
 WILL ADMIT SUNLIGHT TO EVERY ROOM. — APPEARANCE 
 MADE SUBORDINATE TO ARRANGEMENT OF ROOMS. — AN 
 EXCELLENT FLOOR PLAN. 
 
 3* DESIGN V, -ns 
 
 E give in Fig. 15 first-floor plan, and in Fig. 16 
 perspective view of a fine and commodious story - 
 and-a-half house well adapted for a country or 
 suburban residence. It is well adapted for a 
 corner lot, but if it is of good width, an inside 
 lot will do. 
 
 By referring to first floor plan, Fig. 15, it will 
 be seen that this house contains much more room 
 and on a scale more elaborate than anything yet 
 shown in the preceding story-and-a-half houses, 
 and of course costs more. 
 A is the fine, large veranda, and from this the front or 
 principal entrance opens to main hall B and spacious stair- 
 case, with window on the landing, of stained glass in rich, 
 harmonious colors, admitting a beautiful, subdued light into 
 the hall below. 
 
 C is the parlor, 13x17 ft., with a broad bay-window on 
 
 [125] 
 
126 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 the front, adding much to the dimensions and appearance of 
 the room as well as to the external effect. Opposite this is 
 an open grate, facing the window, whose cheering flame can 
 be seen from the street by the passers-by, if the blinds are 
 open. Who is there, that may chance to be out on the street 
 on a cold winter night, who does not admire the view of the 
 light of the open fire flickering through the window, 
 su foresting; warmth and comfort to those within? 
 
 A 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 E is the library of ample size, with a square bay-window 
 on the front and a window out to veranda; it also has a 
 grate and mantel with a closet in one corner of the room on 
 the side of the grate. 
 
 D is the sitting or main living room. It is large, and 
 connects with hall and parlor, with door out on the veranda 
 L. It also has a grate near one corner. From this room 
 
AN EXCELLENT FLOOR PLAN 127 
 
 a narrow hall- way leads to dining-room F, with doors on 
 each side of hall-way, one opening into a large china closet, 
 and the other to bath-room containing bath-tub and wash- 
 basin. 
 
 The dining-room is very pleasant, as windows and sash 
 doors open out on each side to verandas, and admit plenty 
 of light and air. 
 
 H is the kitchen with a stair-way F to attic, and cellar 
 under, and a window and sash door to veranda- On the 
 opposite side, adjoining the kitchen is a large pantry I, 
 fitted up with plenty of shelves, cupboards, and drawers ; a 
 door from this leads to veranda where there is a pump O to 
 cistern, and other conveniences. A sink is located in the 
 pantry, it being large enough to admit of it. 
 
 On the second floor we have three fine, large chambers, 
 all opening from the hall, and each supplied with a commodi- 
 ous closet. Over the dining-room part is located a servants' 
 room and a store-room. 
 
 The outside, although quite plain so far as decorative 
 effect goes, presents a very neat appearance; and with so 
 many broad verandas on each side of the house, it suggests 
 comfort outside in the summer time. 
 
 A fine roof of slate, cut to a nice pattern, and laid in 
 two colors and with the ridge surmounted by terra cotta 
 chimneys, adds in a large measure to the pleasing appear- 
 ance presented by the design. 
 
 Completed, the house would cost, $1600.00. 
 
"E1R 
 
 k RURAL COTTAGE HOME. — A PLAN THAT COMBINES CON- 
 VENIENCE AND BEAUTY. — SIMPLE ADORNMENTS THAT 
 ADD TO COMFORT. — PERSPECTIVE VIEW OF A PICTUR- 
 ESQUE GOTHIC HOUSE. 
 
 DESIGN VI. 
 
 N the plan, Fig. 17, and the perspective, Fig. 18, 
 we present what may be appropriately termed a 
 RURAL COTTAGE HOME. The first floor, Fig. 17, 
 shows a very complete arrangement of rooms, 
 consisting of large parlor, hall in the center 
 of house, the dining-room being of the same size 
 as the parlor, with the front end beveled, giving 
 it the appearance of a bay-window. A double 
 window is in this end, and china closet on one 
 side, with a private pantry on the other. A 
 door from one corner of this room opens into the 
 rear hall, which is cut oft' from the front hall by door C, with 
 a small closet in the back end and a cellar door and stairs 
 under main stair-way. The kitchen is of good size, with a 
 back entry, pantry, and store-room off from side. 
 
 In the rear of the parlor is a child's room and a fair- 
 sized bed-room. On the front, off from the main hall, is the 
 [128] 
 
do 
 
DESIGN FOR RURAL COTTAGE. 
 
 129 
 
 study or sitting-room, with two closets on each side of a 
 mantel, and grate in the center, there being one on the 
 opposite side from this in the dining-room, both using the 
 same chimney. 
 
 The door A should be glazed, as it comes opposite to the 
 window in the bed-room, and will serve to light the hall. 
 The second-floor plan contains five bed-rooms all accessible 
 
 BED ROOM 
 XfX.13. 
 
 CHILD'S 12L 
 BED R. \P L 
 7X9 
 
 KITCHEN 
 i2X IS 
 
 IpantryI store 
 
 STORE R. 
 
 DINING R. 
 13 X.16 
 
 UXi 
 
 RBOUR •.,< 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 from a central hall-way at the head of the stair landing, and 
 all being accommodated with closets. 
 
 The main posts being 16 ft. long, the first story should 
 be 9 ft. and 8 in. between timbers ; and the second story 6 ft. 
 
 9 
 
130 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 4 in. on the sides, and 9 ft. through the center. The outside 
 walls are intended to be boarded vertically with ten-inch 
 boards with molded battens over the joints. 
 
 We think the exterior of this cottage admirable; the 
 rustic veranda and trellises over the doors and windows are 
 intended for vines, not merely as supports for them, but to 
 give thereby an air of rural refinement and poetry to the 
 house. 
 
 Cedar poles are the best for trellises, but other accessible 
 woods may be used, and the bark should be left on. The 
 embellishment with vines may be cheaply and quickly 
 secured by any person of taste who knows how to select, 
 plant, and train them ; and they should be selected, planted, 
 and trained by every person who lives in such a cottage. 
 Such garniture is the best external evidence of refine- 
 ment and good taste that can be employed; and as an 
 educational agency in a family, nothing is more potent nor 
 gives greater pleasure. 
 
 This cottage would probably cost near $1500 but a 
 cheaper one with the same rooms and conveniences could 
 scarcely be devised. 
 
 -*♦*- 
 
 DESIGN VII. 
 
 In our illustration, Fig. 19, we give a perspective view 
 of a picturesque and most admirable exterior of a modern 
 gothic-roofed story-and-a-half house. This is particularly 
 adapted for a country house or suburban residence with 
 plenty of room around it, and should be set on an elevation, 
 the ground sloping away in all directions, with plenty of 
 
m 
 to 
 
A PICTURESQUE GOTHIC HOUSE. 
 
 131 
 
 surrounding shrubbery. The clipped or hooded gables, 
 trimmed with neat tracery and broad projections of roof 
 and cornices, with wide veranda and canopy tops over the 
 windows, all do much toward making up the general form 
 and graceful outline of the house. 
 
 The first floor contains four large rooms; viz, parlor, 
 sitting-room, dining-room, kitchen with pantry, and bath- 
 room, besides a fine hall and easy staircase. Oh the second 
 floor are four good bed-rooms and a closet to each, with a 
 hall opening into all rooms. 
 
 The sides of house are clapboarded in the usual manner 
 and the roof shingled. The house should be painted on the 
 outside in two modern colors of light drab or stone color for 
 body, and darker trimmings. Such a house, furnished in 
 first-class style, would probably not exceed $1700 in cash. 
 
(flHAF^TRR XYIfl. 
 
 MORE DURABLE MATERIAL. — A SOLID GOTHIC HOUSE. — STYLE, 
 NOT NEW BUT POPULAR. — DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANS. 
 — COST OF ERECTION. — DESIGN IX. — EXTENSIVE FARM 
 RESIDENCE AND BARN. 
 
 ^DESIGN VIII. ^ 
 
 E now pass to a house composed of material more 
 durable and costly. Figs. 20, 21, and 22 pre- 
 sent a design of a building intended for a farm- 
 house, to be built of stone. The leading ideas in 
 the arrangement of the rooms were compactness 
 and convenience, something less pretentious but 
 fully as cosy, if the main stair-way is made to 
 take a subordinate position from the usual place 
 assigned it near the front entrance. A is the 
 porch in the base of the tower, with front en- 
 trance opening directly into the main living- 
 room C, 15x15 ft. The parlor B is the same size as the 
 living-room, with which it is connected by a door, which 
 might be a sliding door if desired. D is the library, or ow- 
 ing to its location away from other rooms, could be used 
 for a sick-room when occasion might require it. This room 
 is Oxll ft., a good closet for its accommodation being made 
 
 (132) 
 
A SOLID GOTHIC HOUSE. 
 
 133 
 
 under the staircase. The kitchen E is llxl2i ft. ; bed-room 
 F, 7JxlO ft., with closet J, off from it; pantry G, 8x10 ft. ; 
 hall H; wood-shed I, 15x15 ft. ; closets J, J, and veranda V. 
 On the second floor are commodious sleeping-rooms, N, O, 
 L, and F, all of which are well-lighted and have good closets 
 J, J, J, J. A hall-way, H, H, runs from in the^tower to main 
 and rear staircases, and the room M is for a servant's room , 
 
 32 
 
 Figr. 20. 
 
 K is the balcony on tower, and a narrow stair- way, with 
 rail, leads from main hall up to the tower observatory. 
 
 The general form of the outer walls is such as admits of 
 a picturesque outline in the elevation, and in the treatment 
 of the exterior finish the expenditure has been spread out in 
 simple embellishments over the whole structure rather than 
 concentrated upon an elaborate cornice. 
 
134 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 This design, we are well aware, is not altogether new, 
 neither did we intend it should be ; it is simply a study of 
 the old gothic forms of architecture, whose pleasing outlines 
 can never become old to the lover of the beautiful. This 
 house, if built of stone as designed, will not only impress 
 the beholder with a sense of quiet repose and harmony, but 
 
 Fig. 21, 
 
 it will have the effect of strength and solidity combined with 
 its outward appearance. 
 
 This building might be erected of brick or wood, in which 
 case the plan of windows and doors might vary slightly 
 from that shown in the illustration. We should, however, 
 recommend the use of stone, when the cost of the building 
 complete would be near $5000.00. 
 
AN EXTENSIVE FARM RESIDENCE. 135 
 
 DESIGN IX. 
 
 We present in Fig. 23 first-floor plan, and in Fig. 24 
 perspective view, of an extensive farm residence and barn, 
 that we think are very complete in their appointments 
 throughout. 
 
 Scattered far and wide over the land, we now find a 
 great many elegant and comfortable homes among the farm- 
 ers, the majority of whom, not many years ago, commenced 
 life with very little of this world's goods. Some, settling- 
 down in the dense forests, and others on the broad prairies, 
 have by their own indomitable perseverance and energy 
 and the strength of their arm, swept away the forests, and 
 turned into flowering fields the desolate wilds of the prairies, 
 where tall grasses were shaken by the morning winds, or 
 trodden beneath the feet of the wild beast. 
 
 The fertile soil produces such abundance that it has been 
 said that America could feed the nations of the world if 
 necessity should ever require it. We all know full well the 
 mighty power that lies in the tillers of the soil; and it is 
 with pleasure that we note their enterprise in erecting beau- 
 tiful homes and comfortable farm buildings where they can 
 enjoy the fruits of their labor. 
 
 The following is the description of the plan of rooms and 
 out- buildings, accompanying the elevation: On first floor, 
 1, 1, porches; 2, 2, vestibules; 3, hall, 8 ft. 4 in. wide; 4, 
 sitting-room, 15x15 ft. ; 5, parlor, 15x15 ft. ; 6, library, 9x15 
 ft.; 7; dining-room, 15x18 ft.; 8, kitchen, 13x24 ft., includ- 
 ing stair-way to cellar, a milk-room being underneath 
 kitchen in basement; 9, pantry, 6x12 ft.; 10, wash-room or 
 laundry, with arch, kettle, back staircase, etc. ; 11, 11, water- 
 closets; 12, open shed, 29x24 ft. 
 
Fig 23. 
 
 I 
 
 
 1 
 I 
 
 
 3«o 
 
 to 
 
 «J 
 
 CJ 
 
 ]"> 
 
 
AN EXTENSIVE FARM RESIDENCE. 13, 
 
 On the second floor is a balcony over each of the porches, 
 a hall extending through the middle of house over the one 
 below, six large sleeping apartments, ample closet ac- 
 commodation to -each, linen closet, and bath-room opening 
 off from the hall, and in the rear part, two servants' rooms 
 of good size. 
 
 Plan for barn : Cattle stable and root cellar in the base- 
 ment; A, A, floors, 13 ft., with scaffolding overhead, B, 
 threshing floor, 26x38 ft. ; C, grain bag, 32x38 ft. ; D, D, 
 hay mows, 26x48 and 36x42 ft. ; E, granary, 15x24 ft. , F, 
 room for large tools, 16x24 ft. ; G, G, passages from one bam 
 floor to the other, 6 ft. wide and 7 ft. high ; H, tool room, 
 12x24 ft.; J, feed room, lHxl2 ft.; K, harness room, 
 12x14 ft.; L, horse stalls, 5 ft. wide; M, M, box stalls, 
 12x12 ft. ; N, hog-pens, with run-way under the floors to 
 manure pit in the basement under horse stalls; O, cook- 
 room with arch, kettle, etc., 28x39 ft., including the hog- 
 pens; P. hennery, 13x23 ft.; R, chute for straw to bay in 
 basement; S, S, hay chutes; V, V, ventilation. Such is the 
 arrangement for the barn and its accessories. 
 
 It is not only most gratifying to have good buildings and 
 things made convenient for the care and protection of the 
 live stock, farm implements, and produce of the farm, but 
 it pays to have these things well cared for. Regarding the 
 cost of such a series of buildings, it is not easy to make an 
 estimate, from the fact that much that is needed on one 
 farm can be dispensed with on another of less size. 
 
(flm^F'TRR XIX. 
 
 AN ELEGANT BRICK RESIDENCE. — COMFORT AND BEAUTY 
 COMBINED. — DESCRIPTION OF PLAN, MATERIALS, AND 
 CONSTRUCTION. — DESIGN XL — A MODERN VILLA. 
 
 DESIGN X, 
 
 UR illustrations, Figs. 25 and 26 are the first 
 floor and perspective of an elegant brick resi- 
 dence, designed by the author and erected in 
 Detroit at a cost of live thousand dollars. It 
 illustrates in a striking manner the advantages 
 of brick over stone as a material for building, 
 for by its use any desirable rectangular form 
 can be secured without the expense of cutting 
 and fitting, as is the case in stone work. 
 
 This building makes a very imposing and 
 
 picturesque appearance, and the arrangement of 
 
 the rooms is such as to secure the admission of sunlight and 
 
 to afford an excellent view of the street from the principal 
 
 rooms. 
 
 The foundations, laid of stone, are 18 inches thick, with a 
 
 cellar 7 feet in the clear, extending under the entire house. 
 
 The laundry, which is situated in the cellar under the 
 
 kitchen, is supplied with three laundry tubs, hot and cold 
 
 p38] 
 
AN ELEGANT BRICK RESIDENCE. 139 
 
 water, and a water-closet; and under room E of first floor 
 is the vegetable room, opening from the laundry. The re- 
 mainder of the cellar is occupied by the heating furnace, 
 fuel, and store-rooms, the furnace being bricked in and hav- 
 ing hot-air pipes extending to the three main rooms and hall 
 on first floor, and to the chambers and bath-room on second 
 floor. Under and around the house is laid a complete sys- 
 tem of drainage-pipes, and the floor of cellar is laid with 
 concrete. 
 
 The plan of the first floor is shown in Fig. 25 : A is the 
 portico, extending around the curved platform and connect- 
 ing with the veranda O, making a fine double entrance by 
 one flight of steps. Black-walnut doors of a pleasing design 
 open into the hall B, 9x18 ft., from which, at P, ascends 
 an elegant landing-stairs finished in butternut and black- 
 walnut, the newel post being square and of an unique 
 design, with a rail of butternut neatly cut and molded. 
 
 The parlor C, 13ixl8 ft., is so constructed as to give it 
 the appearance, in front, of a bay-window the whole width 
 of the room. This is a very pleasant feature, both of the 
 parlor and the room above, as it gives, to one standing in 
 the front of the room, a view of the street in both directions. 
 D is the back parlor, or sitting-room, 13ixl6 ft., opening 
 from the rear of which is a toilet-room L, containing wash- 
 basin, with hot and cold water, and a closet, and K, a clothes 
 or general closet. 
 
 The dining-room E, 12x16 ft., is reached by side en- 
 trance, hall, or rear parlor, and the three main rooms and 
 hall are easily thrown into one grand reception-room, by 
 means of broad, sliding doors that run on tracks overhead, 
 thereby leaving nothing in the way of carpets extending 
 
140 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 F 'g' 2 5 
 
AN ELEGANT BRICK RESIDENCE. Hi 
 
 throughout these rooms. Each of these rooms is provided 
 with a grate and elegant mantles of slate. 
 
 Connecting with the dining-room is the kitchen H, 
 12x16 ft., from which opens a commodious pantry G, stair- 
 way I to cellar, rear stair-way J to second floor, outside 
 entrance N to basement, and the china-closet M. 
 
 A cut of second floor is not necessary, as it is arranged 
 similar to the floor below, excepting that a hall four feet 
 wide runs from front to rear, giving direct communication 
 to all the chambers; and the bath-room, fitted up with 
 copper-lined bath-tub, a wash-stand, and a best Alexander 
 water-closet, is located over toilet-room L. Each chamber 
 is supplied with a closet, and a large linen-closet with 
 shelves and drawers is placed over rear stairs. 
 
 The front hall on this floor extends from front window 
 over portico to the window at head of rear staircase. This 
 arrangement secures a free circulation of air through the 
 hall and rooms when desired. 
 
 The attic, which is reached by a narrow, inclosed stair- 
 case over the main stairs, can be finished into three good, 
 comfortable rooms. 
 
 The windows are trimmed with best Ohio buff sandstone, 
 and the brick- work is stained and the joints penciled black, 
 which arrangement shows to excellent effect. The roof is of 
 best Pennsylvania black slate, cut a hexagonal pattern, laid 
 over roofing felt, and is one of the attractive features of the 
 building. Iron cresting and finials of peculiar design 
 ornament the ridges of main part of roof, and the cresting, 
 portico, and veranda are of wood. 
 
 By referring to the perspective view, it will be seen tha 
 the front gable, forming the angles for the bay-shaped rooms, 
 
142 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 extends out over the front in the same manner as it would 
 if the entire end were square. The projecting cornice that 
 overhangs the angles is supported on two massive brackets, 
 springing out from each angle and joining under the cornice. 
 
 The front is filled with neat tracery, which, with the 
 supporting brackets, verge-boards, etc., all combine to form 
 an imposing front. 
 
 It is not egotistical to say that this building possesses to 
 a high degree the requisites of convenience and comfort, 
 with no small degree of taste, for the amount of money re- 
 quired in its construction. We commend it to all who wish 
 a house of like cost and accommodations. 
 
 DESIGN XL 
 
 Our illustration is a perspective view of a fine suburban 
 villa of ample dimensions. The plans and specifications of 
 such a residence should be made by none but the best archi- 
 tects, and those contemplating such a house will of course 
 put its construction into none but the best hands. 
 
 .^Cl^** 
 
XX. 
 
 HOW TO BUILD A SUMMER COTTAGE. — CHEAP, BUT ATTRACT- 
 IVE HOUSES IN THE HOT SEASON. HOW TO BUILD A 
 
 RUSTIC ARBOR. — A FEW SUGGESTIONS ON BEAUTIFYING 
 THE SURROUNDINGS WITH LITTLE EXPENSE. 
 
 -»0^©<CK^ 
 
 S the warm season approaches, many persons, es- 
 pecially those in cities, are anxious to retire to 
 some spot where they may escape the heat. 
 ip Many go to the fashionable watering places, 
 some to private boarding houses in the country, 
 and not a few camp out by some lake or stream. 
 Generally such persons are able to bear the 
 expense, and have a summer-house on a lot 
 owned or controlled by themselves, located near 
 some lake, bay, or stream, easy of access to the 
 outside world, but far enough away to escape its 
 anxieties. To such we offer a few suggestions. 
 
 We will suppose that a summer cottage for a family of 
 four is to be constructed. We must have two rooms on the 
 first floor, and the same number above for sleeping apart- 
 ments. The plan and dimensions will be as follows: The 
 
 house will be 13x25 ft., making the front room 12x12 ft., 
 
 [143] 
 
144 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 the back room, 10x12 ft. for dining-room, with a staircase 
 between, 2 J ft. wide, the space under staircase being used 
 foi a pantry. The same arrangement of rooms on second 
 floor will answer. The roof can be extended out four feet 
 over the front, and a veranda constructed for first floor, the 
 roof of which will serve as a balcony to front sleeping- 
 apartment. 
 
 In the rear of house, we would construct a cook-room, or 
 kitchen, with shelves in corners, 10x10, with a shed roof 
 attached to main building. We now have the plan of the 
 house, let us consider kind, quality, and cost of materials. 
 
 The structure will require thirteen foundation posts, 7 
 in. in diameter and not less than 5 ft. long; set four posts 
 on the long sides, one in the center of eaoh end, and three 
 for the kitchen, costing not over $2. GO. Lumber for the 
 building will be required as follows 2 sills, QxQ in., 25 ft. 
 long; 3 sills, same size, 13 ft. long; 38 studding, 2x4 in., 
 14 ft. long; 14 studding, same size, 13 ft. long, for plates; 
 22, studding 12 ft. long, for kitchen walls and rafters; 34 
 pieces, 10 ft. long, for rafters and gable ends; 22 pieces, 
 2x8 in., joists for first floor, same number, 2x6 in., for sec- 
 ond floor, all 13 ft. long; pieces, 4x4 in., 9 ft. long, for 
 veranda posts; and 7 pieces, 2x8 in., 10 ft. long, for floor 
 joists of cook-room. This includes all the framing lumber 
 required in the frame-work, and is not more than two 
 thousand feet board measure, which would cost $15.00 per 
 thousand, or $30.00 
 
 The covering boards for the outside walls should be of a 
 good smooth quality of what is usually termed "barn 
 boards," planed on both sides and applied vertically, and 
 the joints covered with two-inch battens; 1300 ft. will be 
 
cm*** 
 
PLAN OF SUMMER COTTAGE. 145 
 
 required at a cost of $20.00. 700 ft. of roofing boards, 
 planed on one side, sound but not necessarily free from 
 knots, will cost £9.00. 5000 shingles for main roof and 
 kitchen, at $4.00 per thousand, $20.00. The flooring, of 
 pine or spruce, matched and laid in the ordinary way, 800 
 ft., at a cost of $17.00. 
 
 For the main cornice use a simple 12-inch projection on 
 rafters, with a verge-board cut in a neat pattern for eaves 
 and gables ; the rafters being planed no plancher will be nec- 
 essary. The veranda is made by extending columns up to 
 the roof with a railing of simple pattern around the upper 
 floor or balconv. 
 
 There should be at least two windows in front room, and 
 the same number in the rear rooms, all of common, plain 
 frames, with two-light sash, 24x36 inches. One door opens 
 to each front room, one to veranda and balcony, one between 
 two upper rooms, and one to kitchen, no door being neces- 
 sary between the two main rooms below. Partitions between 
 rooms of main floors are of plain matched material, and the 
 staircase a box stairs, forming a pantry underneath. 
 
 The foregoing includes in a general way the principal 
 things needed for the cottage, and below are the figures 
 giving approximate cost of material and erection : — 
 
 Framing material, $32.00 
 
 Covering boards, 20.00 
 
 Roofing boards, 9.00 
 
 Shingles, 20.00 
 
 Flooring, 17.00 
 
 Battens, 6.00 
 
 Moldings, verge-boards, etc., 15.00 
 
 Windows all complete, 20.00 
 
 10 
 
146 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Doors all complete, $12.00 
 
 Staircase and extra lumber, 6.00 
 
 Painting — two coats, 20.00 
 
 Labor of putting up the building, 50.00 
 
 Contingent expenses, 10.00 
 
 The whole cost need not exceed $240.00, and in many- 
 localities it will come within $200.00. 
 
 Hundreds of people can possess such a building for sum- 
 mer use, to which they may retire and spend the "heated 
 term " in the most pleasant manner. Certainly the expense 
 is not so great as to deter people in comfortable circum- 
 stances, besides the same amount would be spent in two 
 summers, in boarding and other expenses, with far less real 
 comfort. 
 
 How to Construct a Rustic House. 
 
 Where there Is anything like spacious grounds around 
 a house, that can be used for a lawn, nothing adds more 
 to the attractiveness of the out-door scenery than a cosey, 
 rustic retreat, covered with climbing vines, whose leaf}" 
 foliage forms a most inviting welcome to whoever may seek 
 shelter from the scorching rays of the summer sun, and 
 rest upon the rude seats within. A rustic summer-house is 
 quite simple to build, and a great variety of forms can easily 
 be made if the material can be readily obtained. Cedar is 
 the best and can be found in most localities; but spruce 
 will do very well where cedar cannot be obtained. If one 
 lives in the country, and the material is to be cut in the 
 woods, it should be selected, for the most part, from small 
 trees or saplings as near of a size as possible. 
 
 But a variety of sizes will be needed in trimming up, go 
 that in cutting we may take some of both larger and 
 
A RUSTIC SUMMER HOUSE. 147 
 
 smaller sizes. Trim off roughly, that is, cut the small limbs 
 not close to the body of the tree. Now, for illustration, we 
 will build a small arbor, say 8 ft. wide and 12 ft. long. Of 
 course, in selecting our material we must know first what 
 we are to build, and select certain parts for certain places. 
 
 For the arbor we are considering, we must have six 
 posts about 5 in. in diameter, one for each corner, and one 
 in the middle of each side. These make our mam supports 
 for the superstructure. From the top of these carry across 
 the eight-foot way stout poles and secure them in place; 
 now on the top of the ends of these pieces we will extend 
 pieces the reverse of the former and over the posts, thus 
 making, as it were, the plates, which should extend over two 
 feet at each end, the center pole extending parallel with 
 pieces last mentioned, and of the same length; this center 
 piece must be raised to the height of two feet above the 
 others, and will rest on an upright piece .set down upon the 
 cross-pieces before mentioned. We now have the outline of 
 our structure. The roof should be covered with poles two 
 inches apart, extending over the eaves 2 ft. and joining in 
 the center of the roof. The plates, should be 9 ft. from the 
 ground, and parallel with them, down 16 in. below, all 
 around, place other sticks, and under the corners place 
 braces. Between the pieces parallel with the plate, cut 
 in cross-pieces close together, all around, and fill in the 
 gables of the roof, pieces cut in any form that the taste may 
 suggest. The sides and ends, except a three-foot opening in 
 center of each end, must have a rail all around, three feet 
 high, cut in between the main posts ; also a piece around in 
 the same manner near the ground; then fill in this space 
 under the rails in any form that may be desired, and on 
 each of the two sides make a seat of the smaller poles. 
 
148 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 This completes our description of one simple form of 
 making a rustic summer-house. Very little skill is required, 
 nor many tools; a saw, hammer, and sharp hatchet are th< v 
 main ones that Avill be required, with plenty of tenpenn y 
 nails for securing the work. Of course a little good taste in 
 arranging the forms of roof and trimming the same, may 
 add much to its symmetry. Some of the many kinds 
 of climbing vines .should be planted and trained to spread 
 their foliage over the roof, and we have the arbor complete. 
 
 We have seen a very pretty rustic seat made by setting 
 in the ground one large post and then from this building out 
 like the bows of an umbrella for the roof, with seats all 
 around the foot of the post. This makes a rather unique 
 but attractive appearance. 
 
 A great variety of rustic seats can be made to place 
 around under trees and in shady woods, that will harmonize 
 with the works of nature much better than anything made 
 from manufactured material, and which will not cost as 
 much. 
 
Fig. 26. 
 
Q HAPTm XXI. 
 
 ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS. — OLD HOUSES MADE NEW. — 
 CAUTION. IMPROVING ROOFS AND GABLES. — REMODEL- 
 ING WINDOWS. 
 
 -»-o>*:o<>~ 
 
 HEN any alterations or additions are contem- 
 plated, they should receive the most careful 
 consideration before the plans are put into ex- 
 ecution ; indeed, in many cases more study and 
 good judgment are often required to success- 
 fully carry out alterations so that the new work 
 will harmonize with the old, than to plan a new 
 * building of equal magnitude. 
 
 It not unfrequently happens that additions 
 are made in such a way that they look mis- 
 placed, and add ' nothing to the appearance of 
 the building. Nor is this all ; it should be more definitely 
 known how much is to be done, and how much it is to cost, 
 than is usually the case. Frequently the matter is simply 
 talked over, and a carpenter set to work by the day to tear 
 down and build up without any definite regard as to when 
 or where to stop, one thing after another calling for further 
 alteration until the cost may exceed that of a new house. 
 
 (149) 
 
150 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 This is the experience of many, and should be carefully 
 avoided by those whose means are limited, and whose tastes 
 are sensitive; for cost what the additions may, there are 
 always left reminders of the old house. Our advice, where 
 extensive alterations are needed, is to tear down the old 
 house, and utilize the material as far as possible in a new 
 one. 
 
 The services of an architect cannot be employed to 
 better pecuniary advantage to the owner than in giving' 
 advice and making plans for alterations and additions; in 
 fact, his services are almost, if not quite, indispensable in 
 such work. 
 
 Additions. 
 
 In chapter XIII of this work will be found some practical 
 illustrations of how additions can be made. If the house as 
 originally built contemplated additions, little trouble will be 
 experienced in the work, especially if the additions are in 
 front and conceal the part first erected. The plan then 
 would be very much like a new house with fewer rooms. 
 
 Bay-Windows. 
 
 Bay-windows can usually be added to a house with 
 good effect and an increase of comfort to the inmates. 
 
 The wall should be cut out the height and breadth de- 
 sired, and the bay-window built out from the house. It is 
 best to arch over the entrance to bay, as this separates the 
 old ceiling from the new and counteracts the effect of con- 
 trast of old and new work. 
 
 If porticoes, verandas, cornice, verge-boards, or brackets 
 are to be added, great care must be used to make the out- 
 
ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS. 
 
 151 
 
 lines of old and new work blend, as it frequently happens 
 that such additions present anything but a harmonious 
 appearance. 
 
 It is frequently desired to increase the number of rooms 
 by building wings or rear additions ; but unless a new front 
 is added, the new must always be kept subordinate to the 
 
 oi< 
 
 Fig. 28. 
 
 If additions are to be made to brick buildings, the new 
 wall must be joined to the old by cutting a vertical groove 
 in the old wall four inches deep, and broad enough to receive 
 the brick of the new wall, as when the courses of the new 
 wall are locked into the old, brick for brick, there will in- 
 variably be settlement enough in the new to break every 
 brick at the point of intersection ; hence the reason for con- 
 necting by a groove which admits of settling without 
 breaking. The joints of courses in new work should be 
 laid a little above the old to allow for settling. 
 
152 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 New Roofs, Gables, etc. 
 
 If roofs need relaying, where the building is good, slate 
 roofs may be put on over the old shingles to good advantage, 
 using longer nails than usual to secure the slate. 
 
 If the building is old-fashioned, a marked improvement 
 can be made by taking off the roof and giving it greater 
 pit -h. running up the chimneys and giving them a grace- 
 
 Fig. 29. 
 
 ful finish; and putting in a front gable v.'ith neat tracer)' 
 and brackets. This plan can be carried out when a new 
 roof becomes necessary, and its effect upon the general 
 appearance of the building will be excellent, and if iron 
 cresting is put on, so much the better. 
 
Fig. 27. 
 
 J. HESS, Architect. 
 
ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS. 
 
 153 
 
 Improving Windows. 
 
 The appearance of many good, substantial houses, espe- 
 cially in the country, is positively ruined by the low, square, 
 unsightly, small-light windows. This can be remedied at a 
 
 Fig- 30. 
 
 very light expense by tearing out the frames, cutting out 
 from the top to the desired height for modern windows, and 
 replacing the old many-light sash with new ones holding not 
 more than four lights. The same treatment would improve 
 many door-ways. 
 
154 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 The alterations that will be necessary depend largely 
 upon the construction and surroundings, and further sug- 
 gestions would be superfluous. The author, however, wishes 
 to again caution all who would remodel houses against the 
 too frequent result in which the same amount expended 
 would have secured a good, comfortable, new house. 
 
 Fi 
 
 g- 3 
 
 In the accompanying cuts are represented two very 
 attractive designs of windows ; one has a neat canopy top 
 with curved roof and verge- board supported on brackets on 
 each side and forming a fine outline ; while at the bottom of 
 the window is a small balcony projecting out from below 
 the sill, with a railing round it, and this too resting on 
 brackets. The whole combined makes a pleasing appearance. 
 
ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS. 
 
 155 
 
 The other cut, Fig. 32, has no canopy, but instead, a cap 
 resting on brackets, while the casings on each side run down 
 to the sill, forming a graceful outline. This also has a 
 balcony similar to the other. 
 
 The window first described. Fig. 31, could be used with 
 good effect in the gables of many wood houses, in the second 
 story ; the other one is better adapted to a full second story 
 where the top must come under a cornice, as it does not 
 extend up so far. 
 
 Fig- 32. 
 
 A great variety of forms can be given in the treatment 
 of windows; and in fact, aside from the main outline of the 
 structure itself, nothing has more to do with the general 
 effect of the outside than the treatment of the windows. 
 
 Where verandas come over windows, it is sometimes 
 desirable to have swing sash, usually know as French win- 
 dows, opening out from the rooms. These are very pleasant 
 
156 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 in summer, but must be protected in winter by storm win- 
 dows, as the swinging of the sash gives greater opportunity 
 for cold to coiue in. 
 
 Through the winter it is often economy to protect, with 
 a double sash, windows that are exposed to the cold winds. 
 This sash is made all in one piece, and fits over the outside 
 casing, with a strip of narrow felt between this and the 
 sash, and secured with long screws, the felt effectually keep- 
 ing out the wind. 
 
Gfia;ptejr XXff. 
 
 OUTHOUSES. — SOME PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS. — HOW TO 
 HAVE ICE ALL THE SUMMER. — AN ICE-HOUSE PRESERV- 
 ATORY. — PLAN FOR A CHEAP BUT EXCELLENT FARM 
 AND CARRIAGE BARN. 
 
 3>KC 
 
 T frequently happens that the outhouses of a 
 farm, such as the ice-house, hennery, etc., re- 
 ceive but little attention. 
 
 Some farmers utterly neglect walks or step- 
 ping-stones to the barns and other buildings, 
 and content themselves to tramp through mud 
 and snow, when a few hours' work would build 
 a substantial walk from the odds and ends left 
 in erecting the barn. Such conveniences really 
 cost but a trifle compared with the benefit de- 
 rived from them. 
 
 Ice-House. 
 
 An ice-house properly made will last a long time with 
 
 but little attention; and in the country where ice is not 
 
 supplied, there is no reason why the milk-house, meat pre- 
 
 servatory, and ice-house should not be combined in one. 
 
 especially where a running stream is not near at hand. 
 
 [157] 
 
158 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Ice can be preserved in simple, double-walled houses, 
 with the space between filled with sawdust, and the ice 
 packed in closely and covered well with sawdust. The 
 
 F 'g- 33- 
 
 accompanying engraving and description will, however, 
 give a better idea of how to combine the ice-house and 
 preservatory. 
 
 The novel feature of this plan is the placing of the pre- 
 servatory under the mass of ice, from which it is separated 
 by the floor made of plates and galvanized iron. It is thus 
 
FARM AND CARRIAGE BARN. ]:,0 
 
 already filled with cold air of about the temperature of 34° 
 or 3G°. The temperature is communicated to the preserva- 
 tory by the ice acting through the thin floor of iron plates. 
 Fresh air may be introduced from the sides when desirable, 
 and ventilation is secured in the direction indicated by the 
 arrows, between the outer and inner walls. The iron floor 
 slopes to the center, where the drainage is completed by a 
 pipe. The outer wall is made of stone or brick, next comes 
 an air-space eight inches wide, then a wall of boards filled 
 in with sawdust. The current of warm air from below passes 
 up the air-space, through holes into the chamber above the 
 ice, and out at the roof. The rafters are double-boarded 
 and sawdust placed between them and a four-inch air-space 
 left between them and the roof ; this 'secures brisk circula- 
 tion of air. 
 
 If the ice-house is to be connected with the dwelling, the 
 preservatory may be entered from the cellar by breaking a 
 door-way through the wall ; if apart from the house, unless 
 a side hill be available, some steps downward will be 
 necessary. 
 
 The ice-house should be wholly above ground, but the 
 preservatory partly or entirely under, as shown by the grade 
 lines on side of cut. 
 
 Farm and Carriage Barn. 
 
 There are many farmers owning farms of from fifty to 
 eighty acres, who often feel the need of a carriage barn, yet 
 do not feel able to build one in addition to their other farm 
 buildings. To such it is believed this design of a farm and 
 carriage barn combined will be acceptable. 
 
 The size of the main barn is 30x60 ft., corner posts 15 
 
ICO 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 ft. high; the linter or back part containing the stables and 
 store-room is 15x68 ft., with corner posts 9 ft. high. The 
 shed containing the pig-pen and hen-house is 8x32 ft., and 
 
 E^^J 
 
 Gifl 
 
 8 ft. high. The grain and water buckets in the horse stables 
 are filled through sliding doors opening from the feed-room. 
 The hay-racks should be of hard wood or iron, and filled 
 
FARM AND CARRIAGE BARN. 
 
 1(51 
 
 from the mow over the carriage room. The granary has 
 capacity for three hundred bushels of grain, and the whole 
 barn storage room sufficient for a farm of sixty acres. 
 
 en 
 
 The following is the descriptive reference to the cut: 
 A, threshing and entrance flooi*, ] 6x30 ft. ; B, carriage and 
 
 ll 
 
162 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 wagon room, 22x24 ft. ; C, mow, 18x22 ft. ; D, horse stables, 
 15x22 ft. ; E, feed-room, 7x12 ft. ; F, stairs, with pump (•) 
 under them; G, harness closets; H, H, H, hay racks in 
 horse stables; I, I, I, I, grain and water buckets; T, store- 
 room, 15x21 ft. ; K, tool-closet; L, work-bench ; M, passage- 
 way, 4x30 ft. ; N, granary, 8x22 ft. ; O, cow stables, 15x20 
 ft. ; P, P, P, P, mangers ; R, pig-pen ; S, sleeping-room ; F, 
 feed-trough; U, hennery; V, feed-box; W, perches for 
 hennery. 
 
«i «<Jfc a 
 
 nr 
 
 «J&_« 
 
 fv 
 
 MU^^ 
 
 ' • c^ 
 
 £. & 
 
 ^ <te 
 
 
 *•?- FOR -§•* 
 
 ^^ ¥TV¥VVyWVV¥V v -^ "^ V r V(© 
 
 
 [163] 
 
WTVHB following chapters are designed to suggest employ- 
 ij^s) ments that will beautify the home, and in many iir- 
 nfr* stances add to the revenue of the family, and above all 
 furnish such attractive work as will keep the boys of 
 the family at home, and away from the contaminating influ- 
 ences of the streets. 
 
Q HAPTRR jj # 
 
 A MANUAL OF FRET SAWING. — PRACTICAL LESSONS WITH 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. — FINISHING UP THE WORK. — USE OF 
 
 SAWS. SAWING METALS. USEFUL ARTICLES. SAWS 
 
 AND THEIR PRICES. 
 
 aXKc 
 
 HE amateur is frequently in too great haste to 
 "make a bracket," and does not give sufficient 
 time for practice ; especially is this the case with 
 the younger ones, and for this reason many get 
 discouraged. The true way to be successful is 
 to follow instructions explicitly. Ao one should 
 attempt to do a nice piece of work until he 
 can saiv on a line, or circle, or cut an angle with 
 ease and precision; for this practice old cigar 
 boxes are the cheapest and handiest. 
 
 After you have learned to follow straight and 
 curved lines, the next and only difficult point to learn is to 
 turn a square or sharp corner, as in Lesson I. 
 
 Hoiv to Use the Scroll-Saw. — Amateurs should first learn 
 to operate treadle, so they can run machine and talk at same 
 time; even write and run saw. Having accomplished this, 
 take a piece of cigar box or other thin board, make straight 
 
 ries] 
 
166 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 and curved lines upon it (do not at first turn round). When 
 you have made the marks, place the board close to the saw, 
 as near the mark as possible, with your hands on top of the 
 board; press down gently — not hard, but always down and 
 forward at an even speed, not by fits and starts. Keep the 
 hands as near the saw as possible. Always use thin lum- 
 ber first, and saw slowly; as you learn to saw you can 
 learn to use machine to fullest capacity. To saw a bracket 
 or any other piece of work, always place the pattern on the 
 wood so that the grain will run lengthwise of the weaker 
 parts. 
 
 Lesson I. — Commence at one end and saw up to a sharp 
 point; now, without stopping the motion of the saw, you 
 want to swing the piece of wood around, using the saw 
 blade as a fulcrum for the center; when you get so you can 
 
 Fig. 79- 
 
 successfully do this you will find it of great value in 
 executing work rapidly and nicely. At first you will find 
 it a little difficult, for the reason that you do not turn on the 
 actual center of the saw blade ; this is caused by your press- 
 ing the wood forward slightly while you are turning it; now 
 it should not be pressed in any direction, but if any way it 
 should be held back a little, for the reason that it would 
 then hit the back of the saw blade, which cannot cut; but 
 this will be overcome by practice. 
 
 Lesson II. — This is a different practice, but it will 
 require no special instruction. Carefully follow the lines. 
 
HOW TO MAKE BRACKETS. 
 
 107 
 
 Do not crowd or hurry your work. In case the saw works 
 hard, occasionally apply a little soap or bees-wax to #the 
 back of the blade. 
 
 Fig. 80. 
 
 Lesson III. — This is a combination of the line, curve, 
 and angle, but differing from previous lessons in this respect: 
 In the preceding figures our object was to preserve the outside 
 
 F.g. 81. 
 
 line, in this we preserve the inside. First, drill a small hole at 
 a, unscrew the upper saw fastener, and insert the blade 
 through the hole. Now proceed to cut out the design as al- 
 ready described. 
 
 Having practiced on these lessons until you can saw 
 true, either on a line, curve, or angle, you will be ready to 
 advance another step in this fascinating art. 
 
 Lesson IV. — Making a Bracket. — Having selected a 
 good piece of black-walnut about three-sixteenths of an inch 
 thick, apply to it the design. There are several methods for 
 doing this. The simplest is to paste the design directly upon 
 the wood, using flour paste. After the sawing is done, the 
 paper can be removed by moistening with water, but it is 
 much better to be careful in putting the paste on, and only 
 put it on the part you throw away. You can also secure the 
 
168 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 design to the wood with small tacks, driven into the parts 
 of the wood to come away. Another good way: Pro- 
 cure a sheet of " impression paper, ".lay the paper on the wood, 
 place the design over it; take an instrument with a fine, hard 
 
 • . ■ 1 r . m 
 
 Fig. 82. 
 
 point, and trace around the design. On removing the impres- 
 sion paper, the design will be seen neatly copied on the wood. 
 
 It is better to cut away inside work first. Drill holes in 
 every part which requires cutting away ; this done, place the 
 wood, with the design upward, on the saw table. The inside 
 of the design being complete, remove the outside in the 
 same manner. Having finished the various parts of the 
 bracket, it is ready for finishing. 
 
 Smoothing off Work. — Take a small, half-round file, and 
 file the corners true, and straighten all edges. Take sand-pa- 
 per and rub the bracket carefully. Under edges will be found 
 ragged, but sand-paper will make them smooth. When a 
 number of thicknesses are sawed, this is obviated. 
 
 Putting Work together. — Small brads or screws can be 
 used; if the bracket is quite small, glue alone is sufficient. 
 In case the bracket is intended to carry some weight, use 
 screws. 
 
IX LAYING AND OVERLAYING. 169 
 
 Oil. — For oiling, boiled linseed oil should be used. 
 Apply to wood, and when it is absorbed, rub over with a 
 stiff brush or soft paper. 
 
 Shellac. — Take half -pint bottle of alcohol, fill about one- 
 quarter full of bleached shellac in small pieces. After 
 standing several hours this will be dissolved and ready for 
 use. Apply to the wood with fine sponge or cotton. It 
 dries so very quickly that several coats can be applied in a 
 few moments. 
 
 Varnish is frequently used, but it does not give the wood 
 as pretty an appearance as oil or shellac. If used, it must be 
 applied lightly and evenly. There are several kinds, vary- 
 ing in color which must be used according to the color of the 
 wood. 
 
 Polish. — To polish well requires practice, care, and 
 patience, and we would not advise amateurs to undertake the 
 work unless they are desirous of so doing. Prepared French 
 polish is generally for sale at paint stores. In the first place, 
 see that the wood is smooth. Use fine sand-paper, and be 
 sure to remove every scratch. Having obtained the polish, 
 — light or dark, according to color of the wood, — soak small 
 bits of tow or cotton wool in the polish, and apply evenly 
 to the wood ; add more polish to cotton wool, but before ap- 
 plying to the wood place it inside a piece of linen rag, on 
 which put a drop or two of sweet oil — this prevents the rag 
 from sticking; rub the wood again, giving a circular mo- 
 tion to the rag; repeat the supply of polish and oil as re 1 
 quired, until the surface is uniformly polished. 
 
 Marquetry or Inlaying is a fascinating part of scroll 
 sawing, and is destined to become more popular. At first 
 thought it may seem difficult to inlay one piece of wood 
 into another, but the process is simple when you know how. 
 
170 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 For our first lesson we will take a clover leaf, and inlay- 
 black- walnut into white holly. 
 
 Take two pieces of wood, each one-eighth of an inch 
 thick, walnut and holly ; fasten them together, either with 
 
 Fig. 83. Fig. 84. 
 
 common shoe pegs or screws. Let the walnut remain on top ; 
 secure the design to wood; drill a small hole for the saw 
 blade, the same as in fret sawing, in which insert blade (No. 
 0) ; saw with your work on the right of saw blade. From 
 the picture you will readily see how the dark piece of wood 
 will drop down and fit into the light. If the bevel is just 
 right it will leave the work smooth with no gaps. Having 
 cut out the clover leaf, you can secure it in its place. Glue 
 around the edges of the leaf, insert quickly in the holly, and 
 let it harden under pressure. Finish off the work with sand- 
 paper. 
 
 Overlaying. — When the amateur has become master of 
 his saw, so that he can saw delicate and intricate work, he 
 should do overlaid work, as this is very neat and a change 
 from other work. Ordinary flat picture-frames can be over- 
 laid with vines and fine tracery. Here is an instance where 
 glue becomes very useful, for one can fasten overlaid work 
 on finished wood, where ordinarily it requires escutcheon 
 pins, but all know it is not pleasant to drive them in light 
 and frail work. Very pretty photograph frames are made 
 by taking a pine board and sawing an oval out of the center 
 and covering the pine with velvet. Fasten the overlaying on 
 
SILHOUETTES —SAND-PAPERING. 171 
 
 velvet. Designs for overlaying, such as vines or clusters of 
 flowers, a head or any other ornament, can be procured of 
 almost any dealer ; but a great many . pretty designs for 
 this work can be obtained in such books as the Ladies' Book 
 and Harper's Bazaar. 
 
 Silhouettes. — Few articles made with the scroll-saw are 
 more ornamental than Silhouettes. Many designs can be 
 found in books for children. They should be cut from ma- 
 terial one-sixteenth of an inch thick, or from veneers. Black 
 and white are favorite colors, or ebony and white holly. It re- 
 quires a tough wood. The finest and best saws should be used. 
 When veneers are used, they should be placed between two 
 pieces of a sixteenth of an inch in thickness each, and fastened 
 firmly. Silhouettes are used in various wa} T s, by overlaying: 
 on polished wood or paper placed on a board for a back- 
 ground. If you possess a treadle machine, you can make 
 decorations for your wall, or even make a nice border. 
 Paste a very dark strip around for the border, then procure 
 white holly veneer and saw out a variety of patterns — you 
 can saw one-half dozen or more at one time. Glue them on 
 the dark border, each equal distances apart. If you wish to 
 saw a perfect likeness of one of the family or a friend, place 
 a piece of paper on the wal], and with a strong light throw a 
 shadow on the paper; now with a pencil trace the features, 
 and with a pantagraph reduce to any size you wish. With 
 a little practice you can do excellent work. You can dec- 
 orate an easel you wish to give to a friend with his own 
 likeness, by obtaining it in this way and reducing as stated, 
 placing the picture on wood, saw it out and overlay the ob- 
 ject to be given away. 
 
 Sand-Papering. — To sand-paper flat surfaces, alway 
 
172 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 use a block. Take two pieces of pine, three by four inches, 
 and three-eighths of an inch thick ; through one of them put 
 a few slender screws, just long enough to come through about 
 one-eighth of an inch ; file these points sharp, take a piece of 
 sand-paper four inches wide and seven and one-half long, lay 
 one end on the screw points, press the paper over them, place 
 another block on this, and fasten the two together with 
 screws ; two sets of blocks are best, one for fine, the other 
 for coarse, paper; lay the work on a bench, hold the board 
 with one hand and rub with the other, giving it a circular 
 motion, and move rapidly ; begin with No. I, finish with No. 
 oo. Another good way for small work : Lay the whole sheet 
 of paper on a bench or level board, turn the piece to be sand- 
 papered down on it and rub. Small work can be done 
 nicely in this way. 
 
 Fret Sawing in Metals, Shell, Pearl, and Ivory. 
 
 Brass, gold, silver, shell, ivory, and pearl can also be used 
 by'Fret Sawyers, many beautiful and useful ornaments being- 
 produced by them. It is not generally known, but is a fact, 
 that brass, tin, zinc, and other composition metals, can be 
 cut with the bracket saw almost as easily as wood. 
 
 In sawing out thin metals, or thin and brittle substances, 
 the article to be sawed should be placed between two thin 
 pieces of walnut. The design can be placed on the wood as 
 ordinarv work, and the wood and metal sawed through at the 
 same time. By this means very delicate work can be wrought, 
 as the wood forms a support for the thin metal. No matter 
 how fine the lines may be, or how intricate the work, with a 
 steady hand and keen eye the saw will cut hair lines as 
 well as coarse ones. 
 
 For metal sawing, only the best blades should be used. 
 
MAKING ESCUTCHEONS AND HINGES. .'7:? 
 
 Nos. I, O, and 00 are most desirable. In this manner, ear- 
 rings and various articles of jewelry and ornament may be 
 produced. 
 
 Beautiful ornaments can also be cut from brass, silver, 
 ivory, etc., for inlaying into woods of contrasting colors. 
 Sheet brass, copper, and other metals can be procured of 
 various thicknesses. A silver coin can be hammered quite 
 thin and flat. With the fret-saw this can be worked up 
 into articles of jewelry, or for inlaying purposes. Silver in- 
 layed into ebony is very beautiful. 
 
 Hard, vulcanized India-rubber is manufactured in 
 sheets about two feet square, and is sold by the pound. It 
 can be easily cut, and is very attractive and convenient to 
 use for jewelry, card-baskets, etc. Even a handsome clock 
 case can be made from this material. When sawing rubber, 
 frequently place a little oil on the blade, to reduce friction. 
 
 In putting nice work together, it is of importance to do 
 it well, as good work can be easily spoiled. Hinges can be 
 had at most stores, but they are usually too plain for fine 
 work, and we propose to show how an ornamental hinge 
 can be made by means of the fret-saw. Sheet brass, copper, 
 or other metals, can easily be procured of various thicknesses. 
 The best suited for this purpose will range from -^ to -^ of 
 an inch. Upon a piece of metal, the requisite size, trace, 
 with a fine awl point, the design you have selected. Saw out 
 the design, and leave flange sufficient to form a turn or socket, 
 where the two parts of hinge are to be united by a pin. This 
 flange will at first be straight, but by using a pair of small pli- 
 ers and working it with a light hammer around a steel wire 
 fully as large as the diameter of the pin, it will take a tubular 
 shape. To the other half of the hinge there will be, of course, 
 
174 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 two more flanges to be made in the same way. The pin 
 should be fitted as true as possible in order that the hinge 
 may open and shut easily. The hinges should be fastened 
 
 Fig. 86. 
 
 Fig. 87. 
 
 on with small wire pins, holes of proper size being drilled 
 
 through the metal and wood. 
 
 Fig. 83. 
 
 Fig. 89. 
 
 Fig. 90. Fig. 91. 
 
 Escutcheons for key-hole ornaments can also be cut from 
 brass and other metals. A few styles are shown above. 
 
HAND SCROLL, OR FRET SA WS. \ 75 
 
 Many other small articles from metals can be cut out with 
 the saw. We illustrate two very useful ones. They are 
 metal loops for suspending clock cases, picture-frames, 
 brackets, etc. For this, sheet brass is used. As nail-heads 
 vary in size, the hole by which the loop is passed over the 
 nail should be sufficiently roomy for the largest-sized pict- 
 ure-nail. Fret-work boxes can be still further ornamented 
 by means of corner braces cut in neat designs from brass. 
 These can be cut in pairs by following the directions already 
 given. 
 
 Saws, Lathes, Prices, Etc. 
 
 Some of the higher priced scroll sawing machines, have 
 a turning lathe attachment, and are equipped with a com- 
 plement of chisels and gouges, by means of which many 
 useful and ornamental articles can be easily turned. Some 
 also have a buzz-saw attachment, a dovetailing attachment, 
 a molding attachment, and buffing and polishing attach- 
 ments, so that they are adapted to a great variety of work. 
 
 The cost of a scroll sawing machine varies from three to 
 twenty-five dollars. With most machines, from six to 
 twelve saw blades are given when it is purchased. The 
 saw blades cost from ten to seventy-five cents each, or from 
 $1.20 to $6.00 per dozen, according to size. We present 
 herewith a cut of a scroll sawing machine, to which any of 
 the above-mentioned attachments can be made. 
 
 Hand Scroll or Fret Saws. 
 
 Persons who do not wish to go to the expense of a scroll 
 or fret sawing machine, but who desire to do ornamental 
 work in the making of brackets, or picture frames, or in- 
 
176 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 laying work, can procure small hand scroll or fret saws at 
 an expense of only a dollar or two at the most. These saws 
 will do most of the work that can be done by a machine, 
 but of course it cannot be done as quickly. Marquetry or 
 inlaying work may be done equally as well, and perhaps 
 
 Fig. 92. 
 
 better, by the hand scroll-saws. With these saws are 
 usually furnished several blades and a number of designs. 
 They may be procured at hardware stores where scroll 
 sawing machines are kept, or of manufacturers. 
 
 An ingenious boy with a few simple tools and an old 
 sewing-machine table, could soon transform one of the above 
 hand machines into an effective foot-power saw. 
 
II, 
 
 THE ART OF WOOD CARVING. — ITS ORIGIN AND HISTORY. 
 
 THE TOOLS AND THEIR USES. ORNAMENTS THAT MAY 
 
 BE MADE. — HOW AMATEURS MAY LEARN THE ART. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR FIRST ATTEMPTS. 
 
 -x>XKc 
 
 OOD CARVING.— Within the past few years 
 much attention has been given to carving on 
 wood as a pastime and useful recreation. This 
 is probably the oldest branch of Art within the 
 knowledge of man. Apparently, the first weapon 
 was a club, and the first attempt at decoration 
 was some scratching or carving on it. Among 
 the Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, it 
 was much practiced. As a branch of Christian 
 Art it was one of the earliest, and attained a 
 high development in the fifteenth century, as is 
 attested by the elaborate carvings in many of the old 
 cathedrals in Europe. It greatly declined during the last 
 century or two, but has again revived, and promises to 
 attain great importance. The Swiss are noted for their 
 high attainments in the art of wood carving, as they are in 
 their ornamental scroll sawing, and it is perhaps to them 
 
 that we owe the revival of this art in America. 
 
 la 
 
 [177] 
 
178 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Carving in wood is an elegant and useful art, and is 
 easily learned. Of course, elaborate work is not easily done; 
 but many articles of utility and adornment may be carved 
 by any boy or girl with only ordinary mechanical ability. 
 It is said that whittling is natural to Americans. Carving 
 is only a higher grade of whittling, in which the jackknife 
 gives place to the chisel and the gouge. It would astonish 
 most people to be shown what may be done with these 
 simple tools. For not only may elegant trifles, such as 
 brackets, book rests, bread plates, paper knives, picture- 
 frames, etc., be made by the home carver, but chairs, tables, 
 side boards, bedsteads, and other domestic articles may be 
 ornamented in this way. 
 
 That woman may excel in doing carved work, was 
 shown by the work of the Cincinnati Carving Club, exhib- 
 ited at the Centennial. What has been done by these ladies 
 may be done by other ladies. It is here worthy of note that 
 carving clubs are forming all over the country, and thereby 
 stimulating hundreds to acquire this elegant and useful art. 
 To aid such as may wish to learn the rudiments of carving, 
 we have prepared the following lessons. 
 
 The Use of Tools. 
 
 The first lesson of the amateur is to learn the use of the 
 three principal tools, — the flat chisel, gouge, and veining tool. 
 (See tools 2, 3, and 4, next figure.) 
 
 For this lesson take a block of whitewood, or any soft 
 wood, six inches long by two or three broad and one and a 
 half thick. Secure it firmly to a bench; then, with the flat 
 chisel, carve the beveled edges and make the miters perfect. 
 Now take the veining tool, No. 3, which cuts a V-shaped 
 groove, and carve out the design, as given on the next page. 
 
PRA CTICA L IXSTRFCTK >N. 
 
 17!) 
 
 In using this tool, it must be held in the right hand and 
 in a slanting direction. The left hand should be hollowed 
 and placed on the tool, the wrist and tips of the fingers 
 
 5 U 
 
 Fig. 93- 
 
 resting upon the work. This steadies the right hand and 
 prevents the tool from slipping forward. Now use the 
 gouge, and carve out the circular depression which may be 
 
 Fig. 94- 
 
 seen in the design. Practice on this lesson until you can 
 carve the design accurately. 
 
DESIGNS FOR WOOD CARVING. 
 
HINTS TO AMATEURS. 181 
 
 It is necessary, in order to carry on wood carving, to pro- 
 cure a strong table of deal or other wood, the stronger and 
 heavier it is the better, as nails must be driven into it, and 
 holes bored. It must stand firm and solid and in a good 
 light. The first attempt must necessarily be a simple oik;, 
 and perhaps an ivy-leaf is the easiest representation that can 
 be attempted. Choose a piece of pine wood about three- 
 quarters of an inch thick, free from knots, and perfectly 
 dry and well seasoned ; old pieces such as may be found 
 stored away in many houses would answer well for be- 
 ginners. 
 
 A sketch of the leaf to be carved must first be drawn 
 upon paper, the back of which is then rubbed with red 
 chalk or other coloring matter at hand. This paper is then 
 pinned upon the wood, and the outlines of the leaf pressed 
 over with some blunt instrument, such as a crochet-needle or 
 pin-head, and upon removing the paper the outline will be 
 found upon the wood. Deficiencies in the outline must be 
 corrected in pencil, or, if hard wood is used, in pen and ink. 
 Then follows the first process, known as stabbing out, which 
 is done by holding the chisel upright and pressing directly 
 downward along the outline of the leaf. After the design is 
 thus distinctly outlined into the wood, it is a good plan to 
 deepen the depression made by the chisel, by running the 
 curved gouge round the edge until a groove about the six- 
 teenth of an inch deep is made. The next work is to cut 
 away the wood, and this recpjires caution. 
 
 Until the operator thoroughly understands how to cut 
 with or against the grain of the wood, he should remove as 
 little wood as possible. In clearing the wood between the 
 outlines, it is best to work across the grain, and to begin 
 
182 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 cutting out the wood about a quarter of an inch from the 
 outline, shaving very gradually toward it, relieving the wood 
 at each cut, and .setting the leaf free. This work should be 
 done very carefully until the wood is entirely removed be- 
 tween the pattern edges, leaving the pattern in relief, care 
 being taken always to cut thoroughly and never to tear or 
 dig the wood. An experienced carver remarks: (> Leave no 
 rags, jags, or fragments; clear out completely every angle 
 and corner; get your work as smooth as possible with what- 
 ever tool you may be using, and let every stroke of your 
 chisel or gouge be regulated by design. By following these 
 rules, by cutting slowly and carefully, a little at a time, by 
 holding the tools firmly and leaving the pattern sloping out- 
 ward to be finished, the amateur will be surprised at the re" 
 suits obtained after a little practice." 
 
 The midribs of the various lobes of the leaf next demand 
 attention. These must first be stabbed out, as in the outline? 
 and then the surface of the lobe must be slanted down to 
 them from side to side. The second stage is but a repetition 
 of the first process, the ground being uniformly lowered, and 
 then the appearance of the leaf claims consideration. " Cer- 
 tain portions of the surface must be lowered to present an 
 appearance of reality," some portions remaining at their or- 
 iginal elevation, others being cut or shaved away to present 
 an undulating surface. Here a knowledge of art is useful 
 in suggesting the proper distribution of light and shade, 
 which must be conveyed by the ingenious use of the gouges 
 of different degrees of curvature. No artificial means should 
 be used for smoothing or leveling the unequal appearance of 
 the carved surface, but it should remain as the tools leave it. 
 
 The study of natural leaves is very important in carving, 
 for by this means a knowledge of the different fibers in va- 
 rious leaves is acquired, and wood carving, from being a 
 merely mechanical amusement, becomes in reality an art. 
 
dpiAFTKR IK. 
 
 LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 
 
 GENERAL RULES AND OBSERVATIONS APPLICABLE TO THE 
 IMPROVEMENT OF SMALL LOTS FROM ONE-SIXTEENTH 
 TO ONE-HALF ACRE IN AREA. — ERRORS OF COMMON OC- 
 CURRENCE. — STYLE OF GARDENING. — EXPOSURE AND 
 LOCATION. — GRADING AND TERRACING. 
 
 -o-oXKoo- 
 
 EFORE entering upon details as to the best 
 methods of improvement, and as a fruitful source 
 of awakening attention to the subject, it has 
 seemed best to enumerate some of the more no- 
 ticeable faults, most of which may be seen upon 
 any street of half a mile in length in any but 
 the most wealthy portions of our cities and vil- 
 lages, in the hope that the reader may the better 
 analyze his premises, if already improved, or 
 jmard against these defects when about to make 
 for himself a home in the future. Chief among 
 these faults may be named the following — 
 
 Errors to Be Avoided. 
 
 1 . Houses too near the street. 
 
 2. Too many trees inside the yard. 
 
 [183] 
 
184 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 3. Too much shade about the house. 
 
 4. The use of improper trees, considering the style of 
 architecture employed, as well as the use of such trees as 
 have the disagreeable habit of suckering, or sending up 
 sprouts, or that produce unsightly blossoms, or food for 
 "horrid worms." as ladies say. 
 
 5. The use of improper colors upon fences and build- 
 ings, — colors that do not harmonize with each other, nor 
 with the things that nature furnishes in that locality. 
 
 6. The want of care necessary to keep a place tidy and 
 neat. 
 
 7. The destruction of lawns by the use of too many and 
 too great a variety of things in small places. 
 
 8 The use of too many styles of fence upon the same 
 block, out of proportion as to parts, some having too small 
 posts, some being too low, others too high, together with 
 numberless other defects, which we shall mention in connec- 
 tion with each subject of which we shall speak hereafter. 
 
 How to Begin. 
 
 But lest the want of space forbids our going suffi- 
 ciently into details upon all these topics, it may not be amiss 
 to remind the reader that imitation is one of the most fruit- 
 ful sources of advancement. Look about you, and when 
 you see a thing that looks pleasing and tasty and suited to 
 your means, strive to copy it. Take notes and measure- 
 ments in detail, for it is the minute features that produce 
 the perfect whole. Do not allow yourself to guess at the 
 size of a fence post or the height of the fence, the width of a 
 walk, or the distance trees are planted apart, etc., etc., unless 
 you know your taste is good in regard to such matters. 
 
IMPROVING SMALL LOTS. 185 
 
 Many a man can appreciate good music, still he may not be 
 able to utter a musical sound; and so in the adornment of 
 In lines, most can admire, but few can create them independ- 
 ently, and hence must be governed by rules or samples. 
 
 Or, better still, if you are able, get some person skilled 
 in such things to furnish a plan, or at least give some sug- 
 gestions that you may profit by when improvements are 
 commenced. 
 
 Things to Be Attained. 
 
 The improvement of city or village lots that do not ex- 
 ceed a half-acre in extent is quite a simple, easy matter 
 if you have carefully noted all the errors spoken of in the 
 preceding pages, so that you are sure not to commit any of 
 them, in which case, the work is already half done. 
 
 Simplicity and Neatness 
 
 Are the two main things to be sought in these little places, 
 and since they can only be considered as one part or feature 
 of larger places, no attempt to embody everything that 
 could be attained upon a lot containing five or more acres 
 will ever give pleasure or satisfaction within the limits of a 
 small lot. The best that can be done is to secure one fine 
 piece of lawn ; a few choice flowers, not attempting to raise 
 all that are named in the floral catalogues ; and a few very 
 fine, small growing trees and shrubs, in place of those of 
 larger growth that are suitable for extensive lawns, together 
 with only such walks as are necessarily traveled in going to 
 and from the house to the approach, out-buildings, or flower 
 garden, if one is kept at all; this last being of doubtful 
 propriety within such narrow limits. Hence, use only small 
 ornaments for small yards, and thus form a picture perfect 
 
186 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 in all its parts, but taken in miniature. But at present we 
 will consider some things that more properly come first. 
 
 Style of Gardening Used. 
 
 In general, only the "formal " or "geometric " style can 
 be applied within narrow limits. There is no room to make 
 curved walks and flowing outlines, rockeries, cascades, lakes, 
 and other things that belong to the natural style. A mixed 
 style might properly be adopted upon a good-sized lot, pro- 
 viding care is taken in locating the house and out-buildings, 
 having a side entrance to the former, and having the latter 
 so placed in the rear that a curved walk could be started 
 from the proper place for an entrance to the yard, passing 
 the door of the house, thence on toward the places that it be- 
 comes necessary to visit about every home. No abrupt turns 
 would be admissible, for nothing of the "picturesque" can 
 ever be tolerated here, not even rough rustic chairs and 
 things of like nature. On account of their nearness to the 
 dwelling, all architectural ornaments or manufactured arti- 
 cles should conform to, and be in harmony with, the style of 
 the house, which is the leading feature in these small lots. 
 It may be laid down as a general rule that things brought 
 into close contact should either produce harmony of design 
 by happy contrasts, the one being a natural and the other 
 an artificial object, or else be of similar nature and the same 
 style. Do not use gothic vases and other architectural orna- 
 ments in connection with a house in Grecian or Roman style. 
 
 The Exposure or Location. 
 
 Of course we do not expect all can obtain the most de- 
 sirable places, and many of the readers have already pur- 
 
THE EXPOSURE OB LOCATION. 18 y 
 
 chased and perhaps built; but it is proper to speak of these 
 features, and then each can apply them so far as his purse 
 or premises will allow. 
 
 First, then, in cities or villages where the streets are sun; 
 to be graded sooner or later, a medium elevation should be 
 selected, being most likely to conform best to the level of the 
 grade of the street when established. Of all locations, a 
 southeast corner lot in the block is the most desirable, con- 
 sidering the means of access to barns, out-buildings, etc., and 
 the bringing in contact of the most protected, or least in- 
 clement s'.des of the house for an entrance, and the most 
 easily sheltered portions of the grounds for a lawn or 
 ornamental purposes. Next to this would be the corner 
 opposite on the south, being the northeast, which does very 
 well by placing the house near the road on the north, and 
 having a bay-window or veranda opening toward the south 
 jji.de, where the lawn should be, as before. Next to these 
 two, we would choose an inside lot on the west side of the 
 north and south road, or the north side of the east and west 
 road. But should you be so unfortunate as to get the less 
 desirable locations, it might justify more planting for shelter 
 in front, and perhaps pure white houses with green blinds, 
 together with a location less distant from the street than we 
 shall recommend in our directions upon that subject, mak- 
 ing the ornamental part of the yard partly to the warm 
 side, 01 even behind the house if desired. 
 
 Of course, good neighborhoods, good views, nearness to 
 churches, schools, and places of business, although not 
 strictly belonging to the subject of ornamental gardening, 
 should always be considered, as also good water, means of 
 drainage, distance from noisy, smoky, or unhealthful man- 
 ufacturing establishments, or cess-pools, etc. Get started 
 
188 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 right if possible, and then half the work is saved; verifying 
 the adage. " Well begun is half done." 
 
 The Style of House to be Built, 
 
 Although not properly belonging to this subject, needs great 
 care in its selection. Nothing in ornamental gardening can 
 ever atone for a poorly designed house. So, if possible, 
 consult your architect and gardener together; and if you 
 can afford neither, you had better borrow such features as 
 you find in works upon architecture, like the one in hand, 
 using them as your pattern and guide rather than trust 
 you i own poor taste, if such only you possess. 
 
 The Distance of the House from the Road. 
 
 This depends much upon the style or size of the house, 
 and more upon the shape of the lot, which should properly 
 be twice as long as wide. It is also quite important to con- 
 sidei the views to be obtained or obstructed by surround- 
 ings. In general, all the houses in a block should front on 
 the same line, and the center of the house should be placed 
 back from the street one-fourth or one-third the length of 
 the lot, the distance being increased with the increased 
 width of the lot, providing the lengths are the same, as is 
 usually the case in cities and villages. Upon a lot ten rods 
 long, this brings a house that is thirty -three feet long, from 
 twenty -five to thirty-five feet from the road, the shorter dis- 
 tance being about the least admissible in such sized lots, espe- 
 cially if all owners on the block can agree. And between these 
 distances, the economic use to which you might desire to 
 put your back yard, or the ornamental use to which you 
 
/ MPBO I 'EM.EN TS. [89 
 
 might wish to devote your front yard, must determine each 
 case. 
 
 Then, too, if your lot is very high above the grade, pru- 
 dence would dictate not to use the less distance, but rather 
 to increase the greater distance, thus giving less pitch per 
 rod from the house to sidewalk. The pitch should in no 
 case exceed one foot to the rod, not more than half thi,^ 
 being desirable ; and even then the surface should be a little 
 full near the center, giving it a slight convexity, which in 
 creases the apparent breadth of lawn. 
 
 Means of Improvement. 
 
 The first thing to be done upon a new place is to secure 
 perfect drainage for cellar and surplus waters, and the next 
 is to mark out your necessary 
 
 Roads and Walks; 
 
 But as we have occasion to speak of these more fully under 
 the head of large places, the details being the same in both, 
 we will proceed to the 
 
 Grading and Terracing. 
 
 In case the pitch is too great from the house to the 
 street, or in other places upon the premises, it will be neces- 
 sary to terrace; and when this is done, let it seem to be a 
 part of the house, being parallel with it, and supporting the 
 same at every turn when near to it, or parallel with the 
 fence when near to the road. Let the banks be smoothly 
 cut, and neatly sodded with the finest June or blue 
 grass sod that can be procured from some adjoining road- 
 
100 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 side or pasture, not coarse timothy, clover, or dandelion sod. 
 The same kind should be used in strips about eight inches 
 wide for marking the borders of drives and walks, and be 
 well pounded down with the back of the spade, and kept 
 well watered during dry weather. Give the face of the ter - 
 race sufficient slant to keep it from falling down, and a 
 concave rather than a convex face, which last does not 
 look nor stand well. It would hardly seem proper to resort 
 to terraces unless there is an incline above a foot to the rod 
 in distance. 
 
 As regards the grading of the general surface, it is often 
 advisable to plant the ground to some spring hoeing crop, 
 — potatoes are best, — thus giving the old sod time to decay, 
 making it much easier to level down smoothly in the fall, 
 which of all seasons is the best for such work. Fill up all 
 abrupt depressions, making the general surface smooth and 
 even, with good descent for drainage. 
 
 FOKMATION OF LAWNS. 
 
 As lawns constitute the chief charm in all small grounds, 
 great care should be taken in their formation. Dig the 
 ground deep and apply plenty of fertilizers in the form of 
 rich loam, not clay alone unless the soil is too sandy, nor 
 sand alone, for it will not hold moisture nor sustain lux- 
 uriant vegetation ; but use both together, or more of one or 
 the other as there seems to be need. Apply also a good 
 quantity of composted muck if needed, and a generous supply 
 of manure as free from weeds and the coarser kinds of grass 
 seed as possible. Composting one season and turning often, 
 will greatly improve barn-yard manure, and mixing it thor- 
 oughly with the muck or road dust is better still. After 
 
FORMA TION OF LA 1 1 r NS. 191 
 
 the ground is leveled and the prepared manure applied, rake 
 thoroughly with a fine-tooth iron rake, removing all chunks, 
 sticks, stones, sods, etc., which may be buried in the ground 
 or removed. 
 
 After this let the ground settle awhile, through a heavy 
 rain if possible; and then, after again raking the entire 
 ground over and making the surface smooth and even, s<nv 
 evenly a mixture of equal parts of June or Kentucky blue- 
 grass and redtop seed, with a little sweet-scented clover, 
 not more than a pound to three bushels of the other two. 
 Use this mixture at the rate of one quart, or a little less, to 
 the square rod of surface. Sow early in the spring or in 
 September, and about July commence mowing to kill the 
 weeds; and if dandelions, thistles, or other perennial weeds 
 are seen, dig them out with a garden trowel. Now, by mow- 
 ing once in a week or two, rolling, and during dry weather 
 sprinkling occasionally, you will soon have the greatest or- 
 nament that can be obtained near a house or made to adorn 
 small premises. 
 
 A Moee Permanent Lawn, 
 
 One that will not be parched and dry during the droughts so 
 common in our climate in : summer, may be formed by another 
 method which is costly in the beginning, but will return a 
 rich reward when once completed. This is made by " trench- 
 ing," or turning all the ground upside down to the depth of 
 two, or better, three feet; commence at one side by throw- 
 ing out a ditch, then fill this by forming another of same 
 width next to it, and so on until all the ground has been 
 inverted, the first dirt thrown out being carried to fill the 
 last ditch. Then by leveling, rolling, and forming a new 
 
102 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 surface of rich soils, as at first directed, and sowing as before, 
 yon will have the most durable and perfect lawn that can 
 be formed, and the cheapest in the end. But as most Amer- 
 icans are too impatient for such work, we have given the 
 quick way first, supplying the lack of moisture by artificial 
 watering during periods of drought. 
 
Ghafteh Y*ST. 
 
 SPECIAL FEATURES. — DRIVES AND WALKS. — VARIETIES OF 
 SHRUBS, TREES AND FLOWERS TO USE. — LAYING OUT 
 AND MAKING WALKS AND DRIVES. — EASY METHODS OF 
 LAYING OUT DRIVES. — GROUPING AND PLANTING. 
 
 SPECIAL FEATURES, 
 
 RIVES AND WALKS.— As we have before 
 stated, the number, direction, and location of 
 drives and walks are matters of the utmost im- 
 portance, as these not only form convenient 
 means of ingress and egress to the premises, and 
 connect the points which must be so often visited 
 about every house, such as the barn, gardens, 
 out-buildings, etc., but also furnish the boundary 
 lines for lawns, garden-patches, and other divis- 
 ions of the premises. Therefore it becomes a 
 matter of the utmost importance where these 
 necessary features should be placed to make them at once 
 convenient and useful, seeming to fall just where we need 
 to go in following our daily pursuits, — a thing that no 
 true economist should overlook. Still, they can be made 
 " a thing of beauty," or at least, so as to enhance the 
 more beautiful features, since they furnish a guide for cor- 
 
 13 [193] 
 
194 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 rect planting, which is the most difficult of landscape work. 
 Not that we would set our trees and shrubs in regular 
 order along the line of the drives, as would be eminently 
 proper in the strictly "formal style;" still, at every turn, 
 the one must be governed and made to support the other in 
 an informal way ; hence the importance of careful study in 
 locating our walks and drives. No absolute rules can be laid 
 down, since premises and their objects vary so materially. 
 
 But first of all, great care should be taken in regard to 
 the location of the house, for this in turn must govern all 
 else. Next to this, as few walks and drives should be made 
 as will meet the every-day necessities ; for if too numerous, 
 they are expensive luxuries which require constant care and 
 attention to prevent their becoming nuisances, for such they 
 will become when overrun with weeds and grass, while at 
 the same time they greatly mar the breadth of lawn by 
 cutting it up into small patches like a piece-work quilt. If 
 the lot is small, the house very near the road, — less than 
 twenty-five feet, — and the door in front, it will hardly be 
 possible to do more than run a straight walk from the road to 
 the door, turning by a gentle elbow curve and passing along 
 the side of the house to the kitchen door, leaving a narrow 
 strip of sod between the walk and house, and thence to the 
 out-buildings in the same formal manner. 
 
 Trees must be of small size, and planted so as to shut out 
 views of an objectionable nature, but should never be close 
 to the house. Use only nice flowering shrubs, such as the 
 althea, deutzia, spirea, weigela, and nice roses on the 
 warmer sides; and azaleas, kalmias, and rliododemdrons, all 
 with numerous varieties, on the cold or northern exposures, 
 near the dwelling. 
 
DRIVES AND WALKS. 195 
 
 If you keep a horse or cow and have no alley in the rear, 
 it will be necessary to put next to one side of the lot a 
 straight drive leading directly to the barn, located at the 
 back corner on that side. A slight raise in the turf on the 
 side of the drive next to the house, together with a judicious 
 planting of shrubbery, either of a strictly ornamental char- 
 acter or of currants, gooseberries, etc., thus shutting out the 
 view of the barn and gravel, may be desirable, thereby 
 combining the useful with the decorative. 
 
 Flowers require such time and attention as few people 
 are willing to devote to them ; still, if the ladies can be in- 
 duced to give their time, they can be made to add much to 
 the beauty and attractiveness of the surroundings. Culti- 
 vate those that are hardy, such as peonies, petunias, phlox 
 drummondii, asters, zinnias, etc., putting only one kind 
 in each of the small, oval beds cut out here and there in 
 the lawn, or else use some high-growing plants in the center 
 and low ones around the border of the beds, which should 
 be raised a few inches toward the center. Select such colors 
 as blend together nicely, and care for them well. A small 
 evergreen makes a nice center-piece. 
 
 Places of Larger Extent, with houses located as 
 before directed, especially if the entrance is on the side, — a 
 much more convenient plan, considering ease of access, the 
 front door being replaced with a bay-window if frontage is 
 favorable, — admit of a greater diversity of walks and 
 drives; and these do not differ, only in width, the wider 
 ones, above eight feet in width, being used for both purposes 
 very properly. 
 
 The first thing now to take into consideration Is a con- 
 venient place for an entrance. If your daily travels lead 
 
196 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 you nearly always toward a certain corner of your lot on 
 the front, and your door is on the same side, you are fortu- 
 nate; for then it will be an easy matter to make your open- 
 ing in the fence somewhat to that side of the front of the 
 house. Passing through the fence at right angles therewith, 
 very soon bear toward the nearest corner of the house, and 
 before reaching it, again turn in the opposite direction, 
 passing the entrance at right angles with it; thence continue 
 the drive toward the barn, which should be located op- 
 posite the street entrance, and toward the back corner of 
 the lot, if not too distant ; at the same time a return curve 
 may be made, leaving the barn drive on an outward curve 
 near the house steps and meeting the entrance drive in the 
 same manner, having made a pear-shaped figure. If all 
 this happens on the side opposite your best room, which 
 should always be on the side of ' } 7 our house overlooking the 
 finest, warmest parts of your pleasure-grounds, so much the 
 more fortunate. Again, just where your entrance drive 
 first turns, you can leave it in an abrupt manner in the 
 opposite direction with a less conspicuous drive or walk 
 which skirts that side of the premises, and makes its way to 
 the barn, wood-yard, etc. This will obviate the necessity 
 of passing the house when going on business, drawing feed, 
 coal, etc. In case you have a corner lot or an alley in the 
 rear, there will be less necessity for this last drive, since the 
 barn may be placed on the road or alley, and easily reached 
 from the outside. 
 
 Again, in case there is need for often going in both di- 
 rections after reaching the street, and your premises are 
 sufficiently large, the house being fifty feet or more from the 
 road, you can have two openings into the yard, about equally 
 
WALKS AND DRIVES. 
 
 197 
 
 distant from the house, and unite these by a curved drive 
 which connects with the first-named drive where it turns 
 nearest to the front corner of the house, as spoken of at first. 
 This will make nearly a half circle of the drive connecting 
 the entrances and passing the front of the house, which, in 
 
 4- * 
 
 
 A 3&& *i M 
 
 
 \» \ ■ 
 
 Fig. 36. 
 
 this case, may very properly have a front door opening into 
 a hall, and also a veranda or open porch in place of the bay 
 window, which would now properly fall on the side of the 
 huuse next to the pleasure-grounds. 
 
 As to the details necessary to form correct and pleasing 
 curves, (not geometric ones in all cases, as some seem to 
 think, and even give rules for forming), space will not per- 
 mit me to explain fully A correct eye will stick a row of 
 
198 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 stakes through the center of the space intended for a walk 
 or drive, and a measuring pole as long as the drive is wide, 
 with a short stick nailed at right angles to the measure at 
 its center, will determine the outside line of the walk, pro- 
 vided the short crossing stick is kept in a line with the cen- 
 ter row of stakes at every point measured, as shown in the 
 figure. 
 
 The same figure will also show the arrangement of the 
 planting, which should not be in any formal order, but so 
 placed as to appear natural and not to obstruct any views, 
 while at the same time furnishing a pretense for turning 
 just as we do. There are other methods, such as using 
 measurements and making offsets from tangent lines, for 
 which we must refer you to the more extensive works on 
 this subject. One more, which is very easy to put in prac- 
 tice if the ground is newly graded and raked, is to take 
 your horse and carriage and start at the entrance and drive, 
 in an easy, natural way, toward the points you wish to 
 reach ; then make the return, meeting the first track on the 
 outward bend, merging into it in a graceful manner, and pass- 
 ing out. Then widen the track, by stakes stuck on each side, 
 to the width of your drive, or let it remain as it is for a 
 walk only. This is the easiest of all methods if you have 
 any idea of where you ought to drive. 
 
 Making Walks and Drives. 
 
 This should be done in as permanent a manner as your 
 means will admit. There are many methods, but the same 
 general principles govern them all; viz., thorough drainage 
 underneath, and a hard, compact surface that will not cut 
 up into ruts, nor furnish dust or mud at any season of the 
 
DRIVES AND WALKS. 199 
 
 year. In order to accomplish this, you will need to dig out 
 the dirt to the depth of one foot at least, using the same for 
 filling where needed, and leaving the bottom with a gentle 
 inclination toward the center if the drive is not more than 
 twelve feet in width ; in this case a tile drain should be laid 
 under this lowest line, following the course of the road. 
 But in case the road is wider, slant the bottom both ways 
 from the center toward the outside, and then under both 
 these lowest points use tiers of tiles as before. The tiles 
 should be put at least one foot lower than the bottom of the 
 road-bed, and laid as directed in the article upon the im- 
 provement of large places, the ditches being filled with 
 gravel or other porous soil, in order to let the water drain 
 off rapidly from the road above. 
 
 The cheapest material with which to fill the lower part' 
 of the road-bed is probably cobble-stone, which should be 
 laid smoothly and evenly over the bottom, and then covered' 
 with layers of broken stones, stone chippings, which may be 
 bought sometimes very cheap, large gravel stones, oyster 
 shells or other materials of similar nature, such as can be 
 most easily procured in your locality. Fill in evenly, and' 
 finish with clean, coarse gravel to a depth of three or more 
 inches, bringing the edges up to within two inches of the 
 top of the sod border before spoken of, which should always 1 
 form a border between the drive and the seeded lawn. The 
 center of the drive or walk should be higher than the sides, 
 having an elevation of about one-half inch to the foot in 
 width from the side to the center, or four inches rise in a 1 
 twelve-foot road. Each layer of material should be thor- 
 oughly rolled, and the surface kept well and evenly raked, 1 
 and freed from weeds. The margins of sod should be neatly 
 
200 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 trimmed several times during the season, keeping them on 
 the original line, which may be preserved by driving a 
 line of stakes on each side so that the tops will just come 
 even with the sodding. There are several other features in 
 connection with the making of roads, of which we have 
 only spoken briefly, and which must be passed by in this 
 brief treatise, referring you again to more exhaustive works 
 on landscape gardening. 
 
 Of this subject something has already been said in con- 
 nection with other subjects; and since no small limits can 
 do it justice, it may be as well to omit it as a separate 
 topic, and glance at it in connection with the subjects treated 
 of in the few remaining pages. A very good means of in- 
 creasing the breadth of lawn in small lots is to have no 
 boundary fence between neighboring lots, especially along 
 the front half of the lots. In this case, no little care should 
 be exercised in the planting of trees between the two dwell- 
 ings, by the judicious disposition of which we may shut 
 out the view of our neighbor's house from the best win- 
 dows and other points of view, and thus appear to own a 
 larger place than we really do. Even the entrances to 
 two adjoining places may be combined in one so far as the 
 starting point is concerned, with a saving of space, and no 
 loss in effect. In case these methods are put in practice, it 
 may be best to erect a high fence along the back half of the 
 line, and then run a line of hedge or a grape arbor at right 
 angles to this on the front end, reaching nearly from one 
 house to the other, and separating the front views from the 
 kitchen and other unsightly offices necessary to every house- 
 hold. Of this, we shall speak again under the subject of 
 fences. 
 
DRIVES AND WALKS. 
 
 201 
 
 A few words on the general location of plants: Except 
 in strictly formal grounds, do not plant trees at regular 
 distances along the walks, borders, etc., nor attempt to 
 make one side exactly correspond to its counterpart. 
 Neither go to the other extreme and scatter them indiscrim- 
 inately over the premises, thus breaking up all the breadth 
 of lawn and shutting out all desirable views. Give heed to 
 the development of these last two features, which may be 
 promoted by properly grouping trees of harmonious forms 
 and shades, also by planting most thickly along the margins 
 of the premises, especially on the sides where shelter is 
 needed from cold winds, and in the turns of the walks and 
 drives, as spoken of elsewhere. Leave open vistas from the 
 best points of view to fine objects in the distance, or on the 
 premises, and many a happy hour will take the place of idle 
 melancholy. 
 
Ghaptkr V. 
 
 TREE PLANTING. — THE BEST TIME TO PLANT. — HOW TO 
 PLANT. — REMOVING AND PLANTING LARGE TREES. — HOW 
 TO SELECT, — A GOOD LIST. — CARE OF TREES AND SUC- 
 CESS IN THEIR CULTURE. — FENCES.— KINDS AND THEIR 
 STYLE. — HOW TO MAKE THEM ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 0>HOO- 
 
 gardeners 
 
 REE PLANTING.— All American 
 agree, we think, in placing November and De- 
 cember (if open) at the head of all other months 
 for the planting of deciduous ornamental trees. 
 To be sure, small trees and shrubs will do well 
 planted in the spring, especially if the season 
 proves not too dry, and proper care is taken 
 to mulch the ground, and thus prevent the di- 
 rect rays of the sun from absorbing the moisture 
 immediately about the roots. 
 
 The conditions necessary to be observed may 
 
 Never remove a tree from 
 a good soil and place it in a poorer one ; and in order to 
 prevent this, the hole in which the tree is to be set, must be 
 dug much larger than the tree, and then the extra space, 
 up to a proper depth, filled with rich soil, or with 
 [202] 
 
 be noted in the following order : 1 
 
TREE PLANTING. 203 
 
 manure mixed with the lower and most distant parts of 
 the soil in the hole. 2. Do not put the manure in con- 
 tact with the roots, nor set your tree too deep, for these two 
 errors have caused more failures than all others. The 
 deeper and wider you make the holes the better, even to four 
 feet deep, and that much wider than the roots, filling the 
 extra space with rich dirt, well packed down, in order to 
 prevent the tree from settling when the rains come. 
 
 In transplanting large trees, above three inches in diam- 
 eter, a preparation must be made before freezing weather 
 comes on in the fall. This consists in digging and prepar- 
 ing the hole to receive the tree, as before, after putting in 
 some extra dirt, which is to be removed before dropping the 
 tree into the hole, and used in filling any extra space about 
 the roots. Also dig a trench around the tree as deep as its 
 main roots run, leaving a large ball of dirt attached to the 
 loots. Shave the dirt down on top until the roots appear, 
 to lessen the weight. Both the trench and the receiving 
 hole should be filled with straw, leaves, or coarse manure, to 
 prevent the ball of roots and the extra filling dirt from 
 freezing down on the bottom. 
 
 Time for Removing Trees thus Prepared. 
 
 Now, if you have extensive planting to be done, and the 
 above preparations are completed, you can wait until the 
 ground is thoroughly frozen in winter, when the removal 
 should be done, taking care not to bruise the trees, and leav- 
 ing the ball of dirt as large as can be conveniently moved. 
 If but few trees are to be removed, and the weather is favor- 
 able, i. e., cold, freezing nights and warm days, some prac- 
 tice moving the trees in the fall, early in the morning, after a 
 
204 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 crust has been frozen over the ball of dirt left about the tree. 
 dug around the day previous, and thus obviate the necessitv 
 of covering the dirt, which thaws out at midday, if left ex- 
 posed on the surface near the hole. But where extensive 
 planting is to be done, the first method should be adopted. 
 Then in midwinter remove the filling, and dig down the bank 
 on the most convenient side to such a slant as to admit a 
 stone-boat or sled being backed under the tree, when tipped 
 over in the opposite direction. In this way, trees a foot in 
 diameter may be safely moved, if you apply force enough to 
 move them. Another method of moving large trees is to 
 use a wide, stout cart with a heavy tongue, which last is 
 raised along side the body of the tree and bound fast, at the 
 same time passing a strong chain under the ball of roots and 
 over the axle of the cart, then pull the tree over with a long 
 rope attached to the end of the tongue, after which, hitch a 
 team to the root end, draw it to the new hole on planks, and 
 lower as before directed. 
 
 Before removing the tree, be sure and make some mark, 
 either by cutting off a limb or peeling the bark from the 
 body a little, always on the same side of every tree you re- 
 move, the more easily to be remembered, by which you may 
 know how the tree stood, and thus be able to place the same 
 sides to the same points of the compass when you set them 
 out. Some think this an unimportant point, while others 
 lay great stress upon it. At least, it is a safe rule and re- 
 quires little extra work; and indeed it would seem quite 
 reasonable that the same side that had become acclimated to 
 the rays of the sun or any class of winds should be best able 
 to conform to their effects when transplanted in the same 
 relative positions. As a general rule, the width of the roots 
 
KINDS OF TREES. 205 
 
 left should be as many feet as the tree is inches in diameter. 
 After drawing the tree to its place, remove the filling and 
 dirt until to the right depth by measure, and then lower 
 the tree carefully to its place, packing the dirt about the 
 ball and using the rest of the filling for a mulch. 
 
 For removing small trees or shrubs, and always for ever- 
 greens, which are much more difficult to make grow, where 
 the dirt is to be removed from the roots, damp days should 
 be chosen; otherwise great care should be taken to cover 
 and moisten the roots. Your success will also depend much 
 upon the kind of trees chosen. 
 
 Maples, elms, ashes, and most nursery-grown trees are 
 quite tenacious of life; but oaks, hickories, chestnuts, and 
 other deep-rooted trees must be handled with care. Some 
 cut a circle about the tree, severing the roots some distance 
 from the body, or even dig a trench and fill with rich dirt 
 six months before removal, causing many fine, fibrous roots 
 to spring out. Never select tall, spindling trees, grown in 
 deep shade ; but rather get good, healthy, stocky trees from 
 the open fields or outskirts of the woods, where the sunlight 
 and winds have had a-' chance to harden and acclimate them 
 to the conditions with which they are likely to meet in 
 your exposed lawns or roadsides. The land must be tho- 
 roughly drained previously, so that no water will settle in 
 the holes, for no success need be expected with most trees 
 unless this is done, either naturally or by tiles. 
 
 Kinds of Treks. 
 
 Of the shaped trees, shrubs, and flowers to be chosen to 
 accompany the various styles of architecture, we have already 
 spoken several times, either by way of criticism or direct in- 
 struction ; and since we have only attempted to improve small 
 
206 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 city places so far, where little can be done in the line of 
 grouping, we can recommend no trees better suited to the 
 roadside than the different kinds of maples, which are up- 
 right, hardy, beautiful trees. 
 
 Elms are superb specimen trees, especially on low or 
 level grounds, where there is plenty of room for their devel- 
 opment; but for these small places, as before stated, trees of 
 the second class in size are as large as can be used, and 
 among these may be named the mountain xtsh, catalpa, 
 beeches, birches, lindens, dogwood, sassafras, buckeye or 
 horse-chestnuts, and in most locations, nothing is more beau- 
 tiful at all seasons of the year than the common pepper- 
 idge, among deciduous trees. And among the evergreens 
 useful for small places, the Norway spruce takes the lead 
 for either specimen trees or small groups, while the arbor 
 vital is best suited for ornamental fences or hedges, as it 
 stands trimming well and thrives under almost any condi- 
 tion, in shade or sunshine. Cedars also answer the same 
 purpose very well. Evergreen barberry and the low, bushy 
 juniper fill a needed want. 
 
 But we must refer you to the woods or to a list of the 
 trees that may be had almost anywhere, for want of further 
 space. 
 
 Fences. 
 
 The subject of fences, of which we promised to speak, 
 will be difficult, if we attempt to please every one, judging 
 by the numerous styles now displayed in front of residences 
 in cities. Tongue cannot describe them nor printer's ink do 
 them justice ; so we will not try, but proceed to offer some 
 suggestions which meet our views of good-sense, taste, and 
 economy. In the first place, let every man on the same 
 
KINDS AND STYLES OF FENCES. 207 
 
 side of the block agree to have a .similar fence, if possible, 
 thereby producing some degree of harmony, instead of entire 
 discord. 
 
 From the various views we hear expressed upon this 
 subject ralmost every day, we find that many persons of 
 good judgment are anxious to see all fences removed from 
 the road, and the lawn extended to the sidewalk ; and, in- 
 deed, it has desirable features. It looks well to the passer- 
 by, and makes it very convenient for him to step into the 
 yard, peep into the open window at night, or examine every 
 little opening bud or inviting flower by day; and at the 
 same time there is little resistance offered to keep idle hands 
 from appropriating such things as fancy leads them to 
 covet. 
 
 Admitting, then, the need of some protection, what shall 
 it be ? The two obj ects for which fences are erected are pro- 
 tection and ornament. The first requires only strength and 
 height, and is adapted to the use of back yards and parts 
 that are unsightly, or about yards containing fine fruits or 
 other things that are likely to suffer from viciously inclined 
 men and stock, or from mischievous boys. Any neat, high, 
 tight board or, sharp picket fence will answer the purpose, 
 not less than five feet being a proper height. But better 
 still would be a nice hedge of thorns; osage orange, where 
 not too much exposed to cold, as it is scarcely hardy enough 
 for Northern States, or buckthorn, which last Downing rec- 
 ommends above all other hedge-plants for this climate, are . 
 among the best. Or if ornament is sought also, with pro- 
 tection from winds, use Norway spruce, hemlock, or arbor 
 vitas, planted closely, and carefully tended and clipped, let- 
 ting them attain the height of five or more feet, thick and 
 even throughout their whole length. 
 
208 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 But about all the ornamental parts of your small yard, 
 and including so much of your house as presents no un- 
 
 bi) 
 
 sightly defects or unpleasant features, and of course, in- 
 cluding the whole main front of your lot must be made a 
 
KINDS AND STYLES OF FENCES. 9()9 
 
 fence in which the ornamental, or at least the unnoticeable, 
 predominates, protection being- made only partial and of 
 secondary importance. 
 
 What shall it be, — iron, stone, or wood? Of the whole 
 list, what can be prettier than a beautiful, low, well-kept 
 hedge, made of some of the evergreens last named ? Still 
 these will not answer alone if cattle are allowed to run the 
 roads, and they must be protected by some inconspicuous 
 wooden or iron structure. Next in neatness, comes a low 
 wall, with a coping of cut stone, the whole not exceeding 
 ten inches in height above the surface of the ground, and 
 then surmounted by a light, tasty wire or iron fence, with 
 posts made of |xl inch iron bars, edge to the front, firmly 
 set into the stone cap with brimstone or other fastening ma- 
 terial. Beautiful patterns are easily selected by sending for 
 a catalogue, to any good firm that manufactures this class 
 of articles. Let the design be simple, neat, and tasty, 
 rather than grand and self -imposing, which detracts greatly 
 from the appearance of the house, and interrupts the view 
 of the lawn. Green or black should be the color of the 
 wires. In the former case, use the best green paint, as near 
 the color of green grass as possible; and dip the posts in 
 coal-tar, which is the best black paint for iron, when used 
 boiling hot. Some prefer sanding their fences while the 
 paint is still green, and often with good effect. 
 
 Of the cheaper fences, the common perpendicular, curved 
 top, wire, picket fence, when well made and in good propor- 
 tion, — as much of the pleasing effect and beautiful appear- 
 ance depend upon these points, — is among the most substan- 
 tial, and is not wanting in ornament. This is made with a 
 frame of nice posts, with horizontal rails at top and bottom 
 
 of 2x4 inch stuff, well-planed and notched together as for a 
 
 14 
 
210 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 wooden picket fence, but using, instead of the latter, rods of 
 -fc iron, placed three inches apart, passing through the rails, 
 and curved above the top rail in such a manner as to again 
 enter the rail behind the second or third rod from it success- 
 ively. Corner posts are cased, paneled, and capped nicely. 
 
 A cheaper fence still, and one that answers a good pur- 
 pose without pretense, is the low, four-board fence now so 
 common. No ornamental fence should be over three and 
 one-half feet high, nor have the bottom board more than 
 two or three inches above the surface of the lawn. A large 
 vacant space beneath a fence presents an indefmiteness that 
 is far from pretty and very unsatisfactory to behold. 
 
 Some writers lay great stress upon the use of rustic 
 fences, and other ornaments. But to us they seem very 
 much out of place in ordinary city lots, being only appro- 
 priate where the surroundings are wild, rugged, and uneven, 
 partaking naturally of the " picturesque in nature." 
 
 The colors of the fences should be the same as that of the 
 house, providing this is such as good taste suggests; viz., 
 dove, fawn, and other neutral tints, with trimmings of a little 
 darker shade, or even pure white in the deep shade of trees, 
 unless they be made of iron or partly iron, which should be of 
 green or black, as already recommended. Of course there 
 are numerous other appropriate styles of fences which any 
 mechanic of good taste could devise, but all should aim at 
 simplicity of design and neatness of finish, being made to 
 evade, rather than attract notice; which last should always 
 be directed toward the central figure, — the house ; or if this 
 be rather ordinary, in appearance, then toward its beautiful 
 adornments, the creepers with which it should be shrouded, 
 and also toward the lawn with its embellishments. 
 

 &Jk3 
 
 mw W 
 
 j^mm 
 
 
 m 
 
 . o>o — 
 
 ^ s-5 
 
 ^o) £C+ 
 
 
 
 Hjk 
 
 e>: 
 
 «£-§*- OR, -f-* 
 
 HOW TO MAKE HOMES BEAUTIFUL. 
 
 (o^- 
 
 -^w 
 
 j Tg) 
 
 V 
 
 kS 
 
 s& 
 
 t> 
 
 wp 
 
 [211] 
 
^K^yWERY man's proper mansion-house and home, being 
 jfl^J^ the theater of his hospitality, the seate of self-frui- 
 "^ff^* tion, the comfortablest part of his own life, the noblest 
 «"» of his Sonne's inheritance, a kinde of private princedom, 
 naye, to the possessors thereof, an epitomie of the whole world, 
 may well deserve by these attributes, according to the degree 
 of the master, to be decently and delightfully adorned." 
 
 Sir Henry Watton. 
 
 [212] 
 
Glhaftrr 1. 
 
 INTERIOR DECORATION. — GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS. — OB- 
 JECTS AIMED AT. AND EXTENT OF DECORATION. — HOW 
 TO BEAUTIFY WALLS AND CEILINGS. — WALL-PAPERS. — 
 HOW TO SELECT THE BEST. 
 
 :>XKc 
 
 W4',.b-.'/aM,',W"-'-: 
 
 H 
 
 Y interior decoration is meant the addition to the 
 interior of our homes, as finished by the builder, 
 of such features as will add to the attractiveness 
 of the rooms and lend an enchantment not felt 
 or attained where habitation is the only object 
 desired in a house. 
 
 The addition of furniture of the humblest 
 kind to a room relieves the monotony and gives 
 it an air of comfort; the presence of other 
 articles not strictly in the line of necessities still 
 further adds to its comfort. 
 But there are other considerations; rooms should not 
 only be habitable but cheerful, and she is a wise house- 
 wife who recognizes this fact early and sets about obtaining 
 the desired result. 
 
 The practice of Home Decoration is growing in favor 
 
 rapidly; and as general culture increases, the demand for 
 
 [213] 
 
214 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 means of beautifying the home increases, and the ingenuity 
 of decorators has been taxed to its utmost to keep pace with 
 the demand. 
 
 Walls and ceilings are no longer left in monotonous 
 white, where even the presence of a soiled spot affords 
 relief for the eye, but are now beautified in many ingenious 
 ways to relieve the dreary expanse. 
 
 In these chapters, the author will endeavor to point out 
 some of the ways in which Interior Decoration may be 
 effected, giving simple directions therefor, so that by these 
 instructions any one can perform most, if not all, the work 
 without the aid of skilled labor, with the simple suggestion 
 that, where it can be afforded, the assistance of the trades- 
 man should be utilized. 
 
 The extent of decoration should harmonize with the sur- 
 roundings ; in other words, it should be governed by the uses 
 to which the room is to be put, its size, and the amount to 
 be expended, so that when done, there will be an air of 
 completeness about the room which will render its occu- 
 pancy pleasing. And here let it be remarked that Elabora- 
 tion is not Decoration; the central idea of Decoration is 
 comfort; Elaboration may leave no room for comfort. 
 
 Harmony is another vital consideration in the matter of 
 decoration. Especially is this true of colors; the entire con- 
 tents of a room should present such mingling of colors as 
 will rest the eye and awaken admiration. 
 
 Many overlook this important factor in the decoration 
 of houses, and thereby spoil what might otherwise have been 
 a source of admiration and beauty. With this we pass to 
 the consideration of 
 
DECORATING WALLS. 215 
 
 Walls and Ceilings. 
 
 Next to the adornment of our own persons, the back- 
 ground or foundation of the rooms which we inhabit is of 
 greatest interest to us. Our circumstances determine wheth- 
 er these backgrounds, which resolve themselves finally into 
 wall-papers, shall be pleasant negative settings to the objects 
 with which we fill our homes, or whether these decorations 
 shall themselves supply the lack of objects which our taste 
 or our purse may have hindered us from collecting. 
 
 Wall-Papers. 
 
 Like all transient fashions of dress or ornament, where 
 the material is comparatively cheap, the patterns or colors 
 of wall-paper are constantly changing, and new patterns 
 and fashions are brought out every year. The small 
 expense attending the decoration of a house enables each 
 new occupant to choose the style of his mural adoi'nment at 
 frequent intervals. It is our aim here to present certain 
 principles according to which a person may be able to select 
 such mural and ceiling decorations as may be best adapted 
 to the rooms he wishes to adorn. Nothing more keenly 
 excites homesickness than the dismantling of a room where 
 our life is usually spent. A sense of loneliness is produced 
 by the removal of our paintings, book-case, and hanging 
 shelves in an ordinary house cleaning, which is only effaced 
 by a complete restoration after the cleaning is over. Wall- 
 papers add as much or perhaps even more to our pleasure 
 and comfort, at home, than pictures or other ornaments. The 
 favorite painting may be dispensed with, but the harmony 
 or disagreeable tints and figures on the wall-paper become 
 
216 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 a part of the room, and are not so easily be to disposed of. 
 They either possess the richness and repose suitable for a 
 pleasing background to furniture, mirrors, and paintings, or 
 their glaring, patchy colors kill the effect of the best 
 pictures; and to many a nervous invalid they render his 
 hours and days miserable, as he counts and combines over 
 and over again the meaningless recurrence of a marked 
 angle or curve, or the ever-repeated misshaped flower. 
 
 The first principle that should be considered in the 
 choice of wall-paper, is that the decoration of the sides of a 
 room ought always to be a background more or less rich, 
 according to the circumstances, for the usual occupants, fur- 
 niture, and ornaments, relieved against it. The choice of a 
 pattern then becomes of secondary importance. A pattern 
 that would be agreeable to, and suitable for, a large room, 
 would not be for a small room, because little groups of 
 objects on a wall-paper, covering a limited space, take pleas- 
 ant, general figures, which, if they are seen scattered over a 
 large surface, make combinations that destroy the effect of 
 the most attractive patterns in detail. 
 
 In looking over a vast number of paper-hangings, one is 
 apt to be impressed with the fact that the beauty of the 
 paper arises much more from a successful combination of 
 colors than from any special loveliness of design. 
 
 Patterns mav be observed where, in a small set of 
 squares, grave and rich effects are produced by a skillful 
 variety of tints of olive and bronze, enlivened here and 
 there by small touches of red. In some of these little 
 squares are leaves of plants; in others, simple circles; and 
 in others, some formal, geometrical patterns. Yet as a 
 result of them all, we have a quiet and perhaps brilliant 
 
SELECTING WALL PAPERS. 217 
 
 shadow, relieving against its rich hues, positive tints in 
 clothing, or bright china, or brilliant glass, as well as the 
 people and furniture in the room. 
 
 A person is almost always able to find in any stock of 
 paper-hangings, a kind of paper so simple in its attempts at 
 form and color, that any one is sure to be pleased if he 
 covers his walls with it. These papers consist of narrow, 
 simple stripes, tiny clover leaves, or it may be little star- 
 shaped figures, grey or white, upon a background scarcely 
 different from itself. 
 
 A cool and pleasant effect is always given to an apart- 
 ment thus covered ; and if rich oil-paintings could not bear 
 the contrast with so chilly a color, no headache was ever 
 aggravated by it, no ornament ever obscured. A paper so 
 neutral is not positively offensive, though it may be of an 
 antiquated style. 
 
 Choice of Papers. 
 
 In the choice of papers, a person must look to the adapt- 
 ation of tints for different rooms, choosing bright or even 
 brilliant shades for the dining-room, bronze shades with 
 slight points of gold for a library, slight soft shades of blue 
 or light-grey for bed-rooms, and rich cream colors with per- 
 haps a little gold for the parlor or drawing-room. The 
 patterns or forms best suited to the size and shape of the 
 rooms can then be selected. 
 
 Long, perpendicular lines, as it is well known, lead the 
 eye up, and give an impression of height to an apartment 
 that no other combination can realize. Figures whose pre- 
 dominating lines are horizontal lower the appearance of the 
 room, while large, detached patterns at regular distances 
 
218 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 tire the eye and the mind with the constant tendency to 
 count and recombine them; and besides, they compete so 
 powerfully with other objects on the walls, such as pictures 
 and bric-a-brac, and they disturb the effect of background 
 to people or furniture so completely, that this class of forms 
 is, perhaps, of all others, the most to be condemned. The 
 scintillating effects of small figures render them the most 
 suitable for wall-papers. 
 
 Of the numerous changes and improvements in all de- 
 partments of art, none is more remarkable than the rapid 
 advance made in wall decorations and paper-hangings. 
 Wall-papers, with humming-birds and gigantic roses on a 
 sea-greenish background, have happily become antiquated, 
 and an ugly or too conspicuous wall-paper is now the excep- 
 tion, not the rule. Wall-papers as now produced, are the re- 
 sult of a comparatively well-educated taste. 
 
G HAPTER jj> # 
 
 HINTS ON THE CHOICE OF PAPERS. — WHAT SHADES TO SE- 
 LECT. — HARMONY OF COLORS. — SELECTING PAPER FOR 
 DIFFERENT ROOMS. — THE DADO. 
 
 aoJOScxi 
 
 E present herewith a few hints to guide our read- 
 ers in the choice of wall and ceiling papers for 
 different rooms. In the first place, it must be 
 borne in mind that the paper must not be the 
 most ornamental part of the room, but must 
 serve as a background for the general furnishing 
 and objects the room contains. 
 
 If the general furnishing of the room is rich 
 and elaborate, the paper should correspond; still 
 it must not be too conspicuous, but form a rich 
 background to harmonize with the various rich 
 objects which are presented against it. 
 
 If the furniture is plain, it will be entirely out of place to 
 have a rich paper upon which it shall be outlined ; for then the 
 richness of the latter will tend to give a cheap appearance 
 to all the furnishings of the room. Consequently, care must 
 be taken not to give too rich a color .to the walls of a room, 
 and one not in harmony with all the surroundings. A gold 
 
 paper is not needed to add to the richness of a room. 
 
 [2191 
 
220 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Another consideration in choosing paper is as to how 
 light or dark the room is. If a room has many windows, 
 and is therefore well lighted, it will bear a paper with a 
 darker background than though it was poorly lighted ; and 
 a dark room should, on the other hand, have a light paper. 
 
 Parlor or Drawing-Room Papers. 
 
 For parlor or drawing-room paper, those with light or 
 medium backgrounds are regarded in best taste, introducing 
 but few colors and those of rich and delicate tints, and dis- 
 tributed as evenly as possible, so as to avoid any strong 
 contrasts. 
 
 The patterns for parlor papers are subject to frequent 
 change, the latest styles running more to curved lines than 
 to any distinct patterns. The choice of patterns, however, 
 is a matter of taste, and must in most cases be determined 
 by the size and general appearance of the room. 
 
 Dados are rarely used upon parlors or drawing-rooms. 
 A frieze or border is always used, and these are of widths 
 varying from six to twenty inches. The width of the frieze 
 upon any room must be determined by the height of the 
 room and by other accessories. This is usually of the same 
 color as the background of the paper, or, possibly, in most 
 cases a little lighter, but seldom of a darker hue. The idea 
 of the frieze is to give an appearance of greater height to 
 the room, and the frieze and paper should be separated by a 
 dark baud or a band of gold color. A gilt molding is often 
 used at the junction of the wall and ceiling. 
 
 In this connection it might be suggested that a French 
 pearl-grey, a warm stone color, a pale buff, or a delicate 
 green, are all beautiful for parlor walls. The faintest sus- 
 
SELECTING WALL-PAPERS. 221 
 
 picion of pink, like the inner lining of some lovely sea-shells, 
 is both pretty and becoming, and will go well with most 
 things in the way of furnishing. 
 
 A frieze of flowers and butterflies would not be inhar- 
 monious with this tint. Pale lemon-yellow is a pleasing 
 tint, or a fuller apricot-yellow is very effective, especially 
 with black wood-work. 
 
 In speaking of the color it is not meant that the wall- 
 paper must be of one single tint, but reference is made to 
 the predominating hue, which exists even when pattern and 
 coloring are complex. 
 
 The shape of a room has much to do with its general 
 effect. A long, narrow room lacks the capabilities of one 
 square, or nearly square. A broken line of wall is by no 
 means a misfortune, and may be converted into prettier sur- 
 prises than could possibly be effected with straight lines. 
 
 The Library. 
 
 For a library, more antique patterns may be used in 
 wall-papers, and the prevailing style at present is the use of 
 Pompeian colors, of somewhat sombre hues, but not enough 
 so to make the room appear gloomy. 
 
 Dados are used in the library. These are not less than 
 26 inches wide, and sometimes as high as four or five feet, 
 but oftenest run from 30 to 40 inches. Dados are either of 
 the same shade or somewhat darker than the wall-paper, 
 but never of a lighter shade. Friezes are also used, which 
 are usually of a lighter shade. 
 
 The Bed-Rooms. 
 
 The choice of wall-paper must be determined greatly by 
 the amount of light to which they are exposed. If the room 
 
222 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 be somewhat dark, a paper with a very light background 
 should be put on, and generally speaking, light papers should 
 be used on bed-rooms, but considerably darker for a well- 
 lighted than for a poorly-lighted room. Where there are 
 floods of sunshine, French grey, blue, or cream color may be 
 used to advantage. 
 
 If friezes or bordering can be found of roses and buds, 
 morning glories, daisies, or primroses, according to the paper, 
 the effect will be very good. Patterns of flowers are espe- 
 cially appropriate for bed-rooms. A cottage bed-room, 
 papered with small pink roses on a white satiny ground, is 
 exceedingly pretty. 
 
 The Dining-Room. 
 
 The paper for the dining-room should have a background 
 of a medium, or from a medium to a dark, color. If a dado 
 is used, then rich colorings may predominate in the dado 
 while the wall may be left comparatively free of colors and 
 quiet in tone. The dado may be from 30 to 40 inches in 
 height. 
 
 If no dado is used, the walls themselves may partake of 
 bright and cheerful colors, and well-defined patterns. The 
 ceiling should be light and delicate, and near the cornice 
 one or two lines of harmonious but contrasting color with 
 that on the walls. 
 
 One of the handsomest wall coverings for a dining-room, 
 where it is at all suitable, is a dado of rich maroon, with 
 gilt figures, and a gilt and maroon molding in lines; above 
 this, a very pale tint of olive-green with the cornice of 
 maroon and gold. 
 
DECORATION OF CEILINGS. m 
 
 Ceilings. 
 
 From the nature of ceilings, the manner of finishing them 
 is susceptible of a wider range than the side wall affords, 
 however ornamental the latter may be. The reason of this 
 is apparent when we consider that the ceiling is the only 
 portion of an apartment which is not covered up or obscured 
 by furniture or ornaments, and that the eye rests upon it 
 undisturbed by surrounding objects. The repose which 
 comes from a repetition of small figures, and the brilliancy 
 of effect of large pictures, balanced by suitable surround- 
 ings, are, in various circumstances, proper to ceilings. 
 
 Until lately, good taste had been so little developed that 
 it was agreed for dwelling-houses in general that a plain 
 white ceiling was the best, and we were content to paper 
 our walls and kalsomine or whitewash our ceilings. But we 
 are at last beginning to learn that the blank white ceiling 
 may be relieved from its cold chilliness by a mixture of buff, or 
 greenish, or some other hue, which gives a warmer and more 
 agreeable tint to a room than simple whitewash, and it may 
 be made even more beautiful by the use of ornamental 
 papers. 
 
 The decoration of ceilings with paper has now come into 
 general use, and has taken the place of the more expensive 
 decorating by fresco painting. The latter method of deco- 
 rating ceilings in private residences could only be employed 
 by the wealthier classes, and so rarely do we find experienced 
 artisans in fresco painting, that the cost of frescoing the ceil- 
 ings of a fine residence is so great that but few of even the 
 wealthier indulge in it. 
 
 Equally as good and perhaps better effects are now being 
 
224 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 produced at from one-half to one-tenth the cost, by the use 
 of papers made especially for ceilings in all manner of de- 
 signs. They are frequently astronomical patterns, represent- 
 ing so far as can be done the canopy of the heavens. 
 
 They are produced with no positive or set patterns, and 
 no straight lines. The outer edges consist usually of panel- 
 ings and stilings, of which there are many beautiful designs 
 in paper, while the astronomical patterns come in between, 
 arranged also in panels. 
 
 The former style of having large plaster-of -Paris center- 
 pieces and raised cornices along the room has been abandoned. 
 Small, tastefully-ornamented center-pieces from ten to eight- 
 een inches in diameter are much used, from the center of 
 which suspends the chandelier in the middle of the room. 
 
 The effect of decorating ceilings with paper is especially 
 beautiful, and when tastily done, it adds very much to the 
 beauty of the room. The paper for ceilings has a light back- 
 ground, while the edges are usually of a darker shade. The 
 patterns of papers for ceilings are quite numerous, and may 
 be found at any store where paper-hangings are sold. 
 
 The decoration of ceilings has become a very important 
 part of the paper-hanger's work ; and when he has an artis- 
 tic eye and fine taste, his work often excels that of the fresco 
 painter. 
 
 The Dado. 
 
 The use of the dado in the sitting-room, dining-room, and 
 library, answers to some extent the purpose of wainscoting. 
 It forms a lower bordering to the paper, and may extend to 
 any height desirable, from two feet to five feet, though its 
 height is usually from thirty to forty inches. It often forms 
 
/ 
 
 a 
 
 A 5^ 
 
 A $s* 
 
 A^ 
 
 &&J&&J&<l#J&-* 
 
 Fig. 38. 
 
 Wo present three designs of Friezes, of the very latest pattern. Fig. 
 'S was designed by Mr. Johx Leighton, F. S. A.. London. 
 
 F'g 39- 
 
 The second design is by Mr. Fi;fi> Beck, of NV« York, the manufac- 
 turer of wall-papers. 
 
 Fig. 40. 
 
 And the last, by Mr. Lewis C. Tiffany, of New York, the distin- 
 guished decorative artist and painter. The designs of Messrs. Leighton 
 and Tiffany have been kindly furnished the publishers of this work by 
 Messrs. Warren, Fuller & Co., New York, the largest manufacturers of 
 wall-papers in the United States. 
 
THE DADO AND FRIEZE. 225 
 
 a more suitable background for the display of the furniture 
 and other furnishings of the room, and affords place for a 
 richer and more elaborate display than the wall-papers 
 proper. 
 
 The designs upon dados are often very rich and high- 
 colored, while the wall-paper above has a quiet tone, and is 
 of medium light or dark color according to the size or light 
 of the room. The dado is almost always of a darker shade 
 than the wall-paper, and patterns of high-colored and large 
 flowers or birds are not uncommon. 
 
 The Frieze is the top border next to the ceiling. — It is 
 now usually from six to eighteen inches in width, the width 
 used depending principally upon the height of the room. 
 The custom formerly was to have the frieze darker than the 
 paper on the main wall, but of late years the frieze is some- 
 what lighter than the paper, with a dark line or beading at 
 the point where they unite. A gilt molding at the corner 
 above the frieze produces a good effect. 
 
 A roll of paper will cover from thirty-six to forty-four 
 square feet, and by ascertaining the number of square feet 
 on the walls to be covered, and dividing it by thirty-six, the 
 number of rolls of paper needed will be ascertained. In 
 measuring the walls, of course the windows and doors are 
 not to be taken into consideration. # 
 
 Paper is sold by the roll, and ranges in price according 
 to texture, style, finish, and color, from ten cents upward, 
 some of the most elaborate styles selling as high as twenty- 
 five dollars per roll. 
 
 15 
 
Gmafti&r 5M. 
 
 HOW TO HANG WALL-PAPERS. — SIMPLE INSTRUCTIONS EOR 
 EVERYBODY. — SIZING THE WALLS. — AMOUNT OF PAPER 
 IN A ROLL. — HOW TO CUT AND MATCH THE PAPER. — 
 PASTE FOR WALL-PAPER. 
 
 o^c 
 
 -(pttjT is usually best to leave the walls or ceilings for 
 
 K 
 
 reason that it requires that time for the plaster to 
 
 become so thoroughly dry as to hold the paper. 
 
 If, however, it is desirable to paper new walls, it 
 
 will be necessary to first put on a thin coat of 
 
 sizing, in order to make a surface to which the 
 
 paper will stick better than to the bare wall. 
 
 This sizing may be made of a weak solution of 
 
 glue, and may be put upon the wall with a 
 
 whitewash brush. However, if the walls are 
 
 green they are apt to draw the colors from the paper, so 
 
 that it is best in all cases not to paper walls for at least 
 
 a year. 
 
 In preparing an old whitewashed or colored wall for 
 
 paper, the wash or color is first wetted well with water, and 
 
 scraped off with an old plane-iron, or any piece of steel 
 
 [226] 
 
HOW TO HANG WALL-PAPERS. 9'27 
 
 which hag a smooth edge, after which the wall should be 
 swept down with a stiff broom, to remove all that the 
 scraper may have left, and make an even surface. If there 
 is any loose plaster, those parts should be well sized and have 
 a piece of strong paper pasted over them, but it is even 
 better to have the place re-plastered. Cracks or holes may 
 easily be filled with a little putty, and in no case should 
 they be left unfilled. If not stopped in any other way, 
 slips of paper should be pasted over them, or else the cracks 
 will soon show through the outer paper. 
 
 After all this is done, the room may be sized, and the 
 sizing will be dry enough in an hour for the papering to 
 be commenced. 
 
 If the room has once been papered, it will be 
 necessary to go over the walls and tear off all the loose 
 pieces, especially at the top and bottom, corners and edges. 
 If the bare wall is exposed by the tearing off, these spots 
 should be sized. After all these preparations are made, the 
 wall is ready to receive the paper, and the hanging may 
 proceed. 
 
 Wall-paper comes in rolls, eight yards in length, and 
 from eighteen to twenty-two inches in width. A margin runs 
 along each side of the paper usually from one-fourth to 
 three-fourths of an inch wide, and before hanging the paper 
 the margin on one of these edges must be trimmed close to 
 the pattern printed on the paper. To do this, unroll a yard or 
 two of one of the pieces of paper and with a pair of scissors 
 trim off the edge, rolling up the paper again as it is trimmed. 
 
 It is usual to begin papering from one of the main 
 windows in the room, and the edges of the paper when hung 
 shall be toward that window, so that it will be necessary to 
 
228 OUR HOMES A XI) THEIR ADORXMEXTS. 
 
 trim off the edge of the paper nearest to the window. It 
 is necessary to trim off but one edge, as the paper when 
 put on the wall laps over the margin of the other edge in 
 order to match the pattern. 
 
 When the edge is trimmed, cut off* a length about the 
 height of the room from the ceiling to the base-board, or if a 
 dado is to be used, so that it will come an inch or two below 
 the top line of the dado. The second length must be cut -<o 
 that the pattern will match exactly with the piece first cut, 
 and so on. 
 
 If desired, as many lengths may be cut at once as will 
 be necessary to cover the room, or each piece may be cut as 
 it is needed. 
 
 The paste having been prepared beforehand, a thin layer 
 may be spread over the back of the first piece, fold the piece 
 up so as to handle it easily, and having brought the top to 
 meet the ceiling, see that the length hangs straight, trying 
 it, if necessary, by a plumb-line; then, after having fastened 
 the top to the wall, take it by the lower end, draw it awav 
 from the wall, being careful not to loosen it from the wall 
 at the top, and let it fall back and it will drop into its place 
 without a wrinkle. 
 
 Now with a soft clean cloth begin at the top and press 
 the paper to the wall all down the center to the bottom. 
 Then beginning at the top, again press it from the center to 
 each side, alternately, regularly downward. If this opera- 
 tion be properly done, the length will be perfectly close to 
 the wall, and smooth in every part. 
 
 It is not to be pressed heavily; but the cloth, being taken 
 in the hand as a round, loose lump, must be moved quickly 
 over the surface — dab — dab — dab — with a light, clean touch, 
 
HOW TO HANG WALL-PAPERS. 229 
 
 otherwise some of the colors may be apt to smear. Last of 
 all, mark with the point of the scissors where the paper 
 meets the baseboard, cut off all that is over, and press the 
 end carefully into its place. 
 
 Proceed with the second length in the same way, bring- 
 ing the trimmed-off edge to meet the pattern of the first one, 
 and taking care that no gap is left between. Neglect of 
 these precautions will convert a handsome paper into a sight 
 that will be a constant eye-sore. Try the lengths frequently 
 with the plumb-line to avoid the chance of getting out of 
 upright. 
 
 How to Make Paste. 
 
 Paste is best made with old flour, water, and a little size 
 or glue; alum is also added, to make it spread more freely 
 without losing any of its tenacity or sticking quality. It 
 should be brought to a slow boil and made rather thicker 
 than ordinary gruel, and then allowed to get cool before 
 using. It should be laid on the paper smoothly and equally, 
 with a good brush, not putting on too much, or it will squeeze 
 out at the edges. "Where this takes place it must be renewed 
 with a clean damp sponge. Any accidental smears of paste 
 may be removed in this way, if taken off lightly as soon, as 
 they are made. 
 
Ghaptee IV. 
 
 DECORATIVE ART NEEDLE-WORK, 
 
 KECENT IMPROVEMENTS IN NEEDLE-WORK. — USEFULNESS NOW 
 A PROMINENT FEATURE. — LIST AND DESCRIPTION OF 
 MATERIALS. — PRICES. — BEAD WORK. 
 
 &K* 
 
 O department of home ornamentation offers a 
 wider range than Needle- Work. Each year the 
 desire to increase the attractions of our homes, 
 becomes greater. In many large cities societies 
 of Decorative Art have been teaching ladies 
 w T hat real ornamentation means, and great prog- 
 ress has been made, as the demand for specimens 
 and designs for needle- work and embroidery fully 
 attest. It is needless to say that the embroidery 
 of to-day is vastly superior to that of a few years 
 ago, — that the glaring, unserviceable ornamen- 
 tation of the past has given place to decoration of a more 
 refined character, in which cultivated taste displays itself, 
 while usefulness is not overlooked. 
 
 The real secret of beauty in home decoration does not 
 depend so much upon the richness of materials used as upon 
 their arrangement with reference to the principles of har- 
 mony and simplicity. 
 [230] 
 
MATERIALS FOB EMBROIDERY. V'M 
 
 The cardinal principles in work of this character should 
 be usefulness and ornamentation combined. 
 
 Materials. 
 
 The materials used as foundation work for embroidery- 
 are varied, new ones being brought out every year; but 
 the subjoined list will be found serviceable in the selection 
 of such as are most popular and least changeable. 
 
 Materials of inferior quality should never be chosen. 
 Labor expended on them never pays. The fabrics, of what- 
 ever material, should be firm, well woven, and devoid of 
 irregularities. Inexpensive stuffs, when suitably treated 
 and used for appropriate purposes, are just as desirable as 
 more costly ones. 
 
 Flax Cloth. — Unbleached brown linen is often used for 
 chair covers, doylies, etc. 
 
 Canton Flannel, — Now known as Fashion Drapery, is 
 used very much. It is double width, and may be found in 
 a varietv of shades. 
 
 Morale Cloth — Is fifty inches wide, made of both cotton 
 and wool, and varies from one to three dollars per yard. 
 
 Upholstery Felts — Are now much used instead of cloth 
 for curtains, table-covers, lambrequins, portieres, etc. It is 
 easy to work upon, and is made in a variety of beautiful 
 shades, presenting the appearance of fine cloth at much 
 less cost. Two yards wide, one dollar and a half per yard. 
 
 Bolton Sheeting — Is of a beautiful cream color, and 
 improves with washing. It is much uspd in embroidery, and 
 comes in very wide widths at one dollar per yard. 
 
 Plashes — Are costly materials. Cardinal, old gold, and 
 peacock blue are the standard colors of this material ; but a 
 variety of other tints can be found. A beautiful new style is 
 
232 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Ombree plush, shaded gradually from one side of the piece to 
 the other, producing a charming effect in screens, panels, or 
 anything which is of sufficient size to show the shading. 
 Single width is four dollars and a half per yard, and up- 
 ward. 
 
 Satin — Is furnished in a variety of beautiful colors, and 
 is of great width, selling at six dollars and fifty cents per 
 yard. Embroidery satin is known as Furniture Satin. 
 
 Crewels — Are made in all desirable tints. Fast colors, 
 however, are found only in the best quality of crewels. 
 These can be cleaned without fading, and are therefore espe- 
 cially for working on linen and flannel. In using crewel, 
 it should be cut into short lengths, as long needlefuls pull 
 the design out of shape. 
 
 Arasene — Is a kind of chenille, rich in appearance, and 
 producing good effects. The work is done in the same way 
 as with crewel, except that after working, the outlines are 
 traced over with tinsel or gold cord, which adds greatly to 
 the clearness and beauty of the design. 
 
 Embroidery Silks — Include several kinds; as, bobbin 
 silk, purse silk, filoselle, all differing in quality and texture, 
 — bobbin silk being used for satin, silk, or any fine material. 
 Filoselle is manufactured of inferior silks, and hence costs 
 less than purse and bobbin silk. 
 
 Beads. — Cut steel beads, colored with transparent lac- 
 quers, allowing the metallic luster of the beads to show 
 through, are one of the latest novelties in needle- work. A 
 silk or linen thread is used to string them on, as many beads 
 being strung on at each stitch as are necessary to give it the 
 desired length. As they are made of many colors, the work 
 can be very accurately shaded, the same stitch showing 
 several shades. 
 
CxFI^F'TRK "V. 
 
 EMBROIDERY STITCHES. — DESCRIPTIONS OF THE BEST STEM 
 STITCH. — BLANKET STITCH. — CHAIN STITCHES. — HER- 
 RING-BONE, BUTTON HOLE, AND SATIN STITCH. — KEN- 
 SINGTON OUTLINE. — JANINA. — BLANKET. — DESIGN FOR 
 BORDERS AND CENTERS. — THE NEW PLUSH STITCH. 
 
 -~<li«<c 
 
 
 HE best authorities agree that for embroidery the 
 simpler and fewer the stitches the better. Of 
 course, the number and character of the stitches 
 depend upon the design to be made, some designs 
 being so elaborate as to require no small amount 
 of work. 
 
 Stem or Tent Stitch,— Which is the simplest 
 stitch for beginners, consists of a single long 
 stitch taken forward, followed by a shorter one 
 backward, thus alternating, a long one forward 
 and a short one backward, only the long stitch 
 showing in the work. 
 
 Blanket Stitch— Is exactly like the ordinary 
 
 button-hole stitch, and is used 
 
 in edging materials. A very 
 
 Borders in Button-hole. Embossed Button-hole, or Blanket 
 
 pretty effect is made by varying the length of the stitches, 
 or sloping them in many directions. [233] 
 
234 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Chain Stitch. 
 
 Twisted Chain Stitch. 
 lar to the foregoing, the 
 needle, however, being 
 set to the left instead of 
 into the preceding stitch. 
 This stitch can be varied 
 by setting the needle far- 
 ther to the left, and ex- 
 tending its length, when 
 we have what is called 
 the Vine Chain Stitch. 
 
 Chain Stitch.— This 
 old-fashioned stitch is 
 quite popular for fasten- 
 ing down the edges of ap- 
 plique work, embroider- 
 ing mats, etc. Our il- 
 lustration sufficiently ex- 
 plains the method of 
 making the stitch. 
 
 This is made in a manner simi- 
 
 Twisted Chain Stitch. 
 
 Satin Stitch. — Our illustration of this stitch gives a very 
 
 good idea of the way to 
 work it. It is very pop- 
 ular, and suitable for 
 work with flosses, em- 
 broidery silks, zephyrs, 
 and crewels. The de- 
 sign is stamped on the 
 goods, and the whole 
 filled in well with silk or 
 worsted, before the real 
 embroidery is begun. 
 Care must be taken to 
 have the edges even. 
 It is really an over-and- 
 over stitch, the work ap- 
 pearing nearly alike on 
 Satin Stitch. both sides. 
 
HERRING- BONE STl TCli. 
 
 235 
 
 Knot Stitck. — This stitch 
 is useful in making the center 
 of flowers and the ends of sta- 
 mens. The needle is brought 
 through, and the floss wound 
 about it one or more times, 
 when it is again thrust through 
 the material very near where it 
 was brought up. 
 
 Herring-bone Stitch. 
 
 Herring-Bone Stitch. — This is a very popular stitch, as 
 it makes a good appearance, and is adapted to a wide range 
 
 of work. It is es- 
 pecially appropriate 
 for joining seams, 
 taking the place of 
 the unsightly ridge 
 made by a fell. The 
 twoillustrationso-ive 
 a clear idea of the 
 method of making 
 this stitch, the larger 
 showing 1 one varia- 
 fcion for ornamental 
 effect. 
 
 Herring-bone Stitch. 
 
 Design for a 
 Border. — The 
 design for a cor- 
 ner will assist 
 in understand- 
 ing this. The 
 rings and the 
 diamonds are 
 made of three 
 threads of dif- 
 ferent shades, 
 while the an- 
 gles are con- 
 cealed by gold- 
 colored silk, 
 
 trnfst^jsjswnw 
 
 5?S5SSSS*S*Bt 
 SSSSSSSSS 
 
 twrnvm 
 
 f»SSJ*J 
 
 SSSJSSSS . 
 
 . S««SSM 
 
 .. 1 . x v. f.»»j! 
 
 -SSSX».Sn8.W «.»,**$«£»<•« 
 
 SSSiSSSSiS 
 
 Design for a Border. 
 
236 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 button-holed along the inside next to the inner thread. The 
 stars in the center are made of the several shades used in 
 working the rings. 
 
 Kensington Out- 
 line Stitch. — This is 
 now the stitch for em- 
 broidery work. The 
 stem stitch is in re- 
 ality the same, only 
 the unbroken outline 
 of the design is made 
 with now and then a 
 stroke representing 
 the veins of leaves 
 and folds of drapery. 
 Satin is the favorite 
 goods for this stitch, 
 and foliage, butter- 
 
 Kensington Outline Stitch. 
 
 flies, and animals are 
 favorite designs. 
 
 Janina Stitch. 
 general outline; 
 but the pattern 
 is not filled in 
 before begin- 
 ning to em- 
 broider, and the 
 work shows 
 only on one 
 side, excepting 
 where the short 
 back stitch oc- 
 curs along the 
 outline. The 
 needle should be 
 set at the next 
 to the last stitch, 
 as shown in the 
 
 -This resembles the satin stitch in its 
 
 Janina Stitch. 
 
DESIGX FOR A CORNER. 
 
 237 
 
 cut. It is suitable for any purpose where a surface stitch 
 is required, such as table covers and toilet articles. 
 
 Basket Stitch -The 
 engraving presents 
 the method of mak- 
 ing this stitch very 
 clearly. Begin the 
 work at the bottom, 
 and work from you. 
 It is a very fine stitch 
 for borders and the 
 like. 
 
 Basket Stitch. 
 
 Feather Stitch. 
 
 Feather Stitch. — The 
 cut very clearly illustrates 
 the method of working one 
 variety of feather stitch. 
 It is worked in two colors, 
 and the effect is very pretty 
 indeed. 
 
 Design for a 
 Corner or Cente r- 
 2>iece. — This de- 
 sign may be 
 worked in a cor- 
 ner, or it may be 
 one-fourth of a 
 center-piece. The 
 /jor-zag 1 edges can 
 be made of three 
 shades of red, 
 the darkest at the 
 inner edge. The 
 outer points to be 
 crossed with vel- 
 low, and the in- 
 ner with four 
 shades of blue. 
 
 Design for a Corner. 
 
238 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 From each of the inner points, two shades of blue and one 
 of gold color, are carried to a point. The balance of the de- 
 sign can be worked from the engraving. Crewels or silks 
 may be used, or a combination of both will look better. 
 
 A New Stitch. — The most decided novelty in art em- 
 broidery, and one that has a permanent value, is the intro- 
 duction of the plush stitch. By its use sumac, cockscomb, 
 golden rod, love lies bleeding, princess feather, and similar 
 flowers, which were previously very imperfectly represented 
 by a bunch of French knots, are closely imitated in texture 
 as well as coloring. 
 
 To make it, first fill in the flower with large French 
 knots of the prevailing color ; then (using button-hole twist) 
 bring the needle up between the knots, lay a doubled strand 
 of filling silk on the face of the work against the needle ; 
 take the needle down about in the same place it came up, 
 but from the other side of the filling silk, so that when 
 drawn down the stitch has caught the filling silk about a 
 quarter of an inch from its end ; draw the stitch down 
 tightly, which will cause the ends of the filling silk to 
 spring straight up ; clip them off with a very sharp pair of 
 scissors. This completes one stitch. Repeat for as many 
 stitches as are required to cover, or nearly cover, the knots. 
 
 It is not easily described, but with a little practice is 
 easily and rapidly done; and with taste and judgment in the 
 clipping and in the number of stitches used, so as to partly, 
 but not completely, cover the background of knots, charm- 
 ingly realistic effects are produced. 
 
 In the cockscomb, for instance, the upper part, or comb, 
 is a rich, velvety crimson. This should be worked with the 
 stitches very close, and clipped quite long, the convolutions 
 of the comb being represented by using three shades of crim- 
 
DESIGN FOR BANNER SCREEN 239 
 
 son. As each stitch may be made different, the shading can 
 be perfectly done. 
 
 The lower part, from the stem up to the comb, shows 
 the green seeds, with a thin sprinkling of the velvety down. 
 
 This is imitated by making the knots of dead green crewel 
 and a few plush stitches interspersed, using a single thread 
 
 Fig. 41. 
 
 ■ 
 
 of the floss made of filaments of red and green. Clip these 
 a little closer than in the comb, and use more red toward 
 the comb. This, when skillfully done, imitates the flower 
 beautifully and faithfully, in striking contrast to the hard, 
 
240 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 knotted abominations of most of the " Art Schools." It 
 only need be seen to be appreciated. 
 
 Fig. 41 presents a very pretty design for a banner 
 screen in which the cockscomb is treated in the plush stitch. 
 
 Designs and Stamping. 
 
 The question of making original designs for embroidery, 
 while of importance, is too difficult for amateurs. Those 
 who are naturally ingenious will be able to construct their 
 own designs, or modify those already made to suit their own 
 convenience. 
 
 The method of getting the design stamped depends upon 
 the nature and color of the material. For light material, 
 the design may be first drawn or traced upon tissue-paper ; 
 next place a sheet of carbonized paper under the tissue- 
 paper and upon the material, and go over the design with a 
 sharp pencil or a dull needle, when it will be found trans- 
 ferred to the fabric in minute dots of black. If carbonized 
 paper is not to be had, make it, by slightly oiling one side 
 of thick tissue-paper and scraping fine pencil dust upon the 
 oiled surface, being careful to remove all the surplus of pen- 
 cil dust with a soft rag. 
 
 Where the design is to be transferred to a dark material, 
 it must be done by pouncing. First draw the design upon 
 thick paper, and then prick the ou times through the paper 
 with a pin or needle, or if it be large, on a sewing-machine 
 with an unthreaded needle; now place the design, face 
 downward, and go over it with a pounce bag made of mus- 
 lin and filled with starch, stamping powder, or pipe-clay 
 powdered. Remove the pattern and touch up the design 
 with a solution of pipe-clay or other coloring matter not in- 
 i urious to the fabric. 
 
DESIGNS AND STAMPING. 241 
 
 In all cases, however, where it is practicable, the stamp- 
 ing should be done by one who knows how, thus avoid- 
 ing the annoyance and danger of damaging the material. 
 
 Applique, or Cut- Work, — Has been divided into two 
 kinds, in-laid and on-laid. Inlaid work consists in cut- 
 ting the same pattern from two materials and fitting one 
 into the other, much after the fashion of inlaid scroll-sa w 
 work, and fastening the inlaid part with embroidery silk. 
 Onlaid work differs from the foregoing in this particular: 
 The pattern is cut out from several stuffs, and then fastened 
 upon another material with paste, after which the edges are 
 sewed down with silk. 
 
 To those unacquainted with the work, it may be neces- 
 sary to explain that the pattern, as prepared, is basted on 
 the foundation to which it is to be applied, and all the edges 
 of the colored felt pieces are caught down in button-hole or 
 couching stitch with filling floss or embroidery silks of suit- 
 able shades. Any lines inside the figures, such as the veins 
 of leaves, are worked in stem stitch; and small leaves, stems, 
 etc., outside the figures, are worked in embroidery stitches or 
 herring-bone stitch. The paper of the pattern is then torn 
 away, which is facilitated by slightly moistening it, and the 
 design remains on the foundation. The work is rapidly and 
 easily done, and when the newer and more tasty designs are 
 used, the effect is remarkably good. 
 
 Draivn Work — Consists in drawing out the threads of 
 linen and working in patterns with fancy stitches. It is 
 very popular, and elaborate designs are now made, by this 
 method, although the work is very trying to the eyes. 
 
 Embroidery Frames — Are made something after the 
 fashion of quilting frames. Care must be taken to stretch 
 the material firmly and evenly. 
 
 16 
 
Ghaptrr VI. 
 
 PRACTICAL DESIGNS. — EMBROIDERY PATTERNS. — AN ELEGANT 
 PINCUSHION. — SILK COUNTERPANE AND COVER. — TAT- 
 TED DOYLEY. — DESIGN FOR LINEN EMBROIDERY. 
 
 -~o>«Xc 
 
 MBROIDERY PATTERNS.— The two borders, 
 Figs. 42 and 43, will be suitable for orna- 
 menting children's frocks, aprons, etc. They 
 may be worked with silk, crewel, or cotton, 
 according to the material. Holland or alpaca 
 aprons look well with borders of this kind, 
 worked with andalusian or Shetland wool. 
 
 Embroidered Pincushion. 
 
 The ornamental pincushion, Fig. 44, is made on a 
 circular cushion six inches in diameter, the bottom 
 being of thick pasteboard, the sides of strong calico, and the 
 stuffing of bran. Cover the bottom with calico, sew a strip 
 of calico six inches wide round the edge, draw up the other 
 side of the calico strip so as to hold the bran, and stitch a 
 small round piece of calico over the gathers. Then take 
 two strips of blue silk, two inches wide, and pinked on one 
 side; one strip must be fifty-two, and the other thirty-six 
 
 [242] 
 
EMBROIDERY PATTERNS. 
 
 243 
 
 ^OtfO 
 
 Fig. 43- 
 
 Fig. 42. 
 
244 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 inches long; plait up the long strip into sixteen double 
 plaits, the other strip into eight plaits, and sew them on the 
 the cushion according to illustration. Now cut out the star- 
 shaped figure in white cloth, pinking out the edges, and em- 
 
 Fig. 44- 
 
 broider the design with colored braid and silk, and fasten 
 it to the top of the cushion, so that* the points of the star tit 
 in between the plaits of the silk. 
 
 Silk Counterpanes. 
 
 Fig. 45 shows a quilted counterpane with the cover 
 trimmed with neat embroidery. The inside may be of any 
 desired color of silk, quilted in a variety of designs. 
 
 Fig. 46 is another style of cover, the edges being cut to 
 form little tabs which button over the quilt. The space be- 
 
SILK COUNTER PA NES. 
 
 245 
 
 Fig. 45- 
 
 Fig. 4& 
 
246 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 tween the tabs may be filled with lace plaited, as in the cut, 
 or with embroidery. 
 
 Fig- 47- 
 
 Tatted Doyley. 
 
 The tatted doyley shown in our illustration, Fig. 47, is so 
 distinctly marked that it does not need an explanation to those 
 skilled in the use of the shuttle. The tatting, which is com- 
 posed of double and pearl stitches, should be worked as seen 
 
LINEN EMBROIDERY. 
 
 247 
 
 in the illustration, with No. 6 cotton, and the spider's web 
 in No. 16. The design would be equally suitable for a 
 baby's cap crown, or it might be used for a flower 
 stand mat. 
 
 
 Fig. 48. 
 
 Linen Embroidery. 
 
 Fig. 48 is an illustration of a tidy made of the new style 
 of embroidery on linen crash. Old ladies whose sight is fail- 
 ing will find this very agreeable work. The stars should be 
 worked in two shades of bright zephyr, while the division 
 lines between the figures should be made of narrow black 
 velvet, crossed with "herring-bone" stitch in gold-colored 
 
248 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 silk. Almost all damask toweling is suitable for this work, 
 but the unbleached gray and buff, covered with stars, 
 diamonds, or butterflies, will be found most satisfactory. 
 Shaker rocking-chairs and hassocks cushioned with this em- 
 broidery are quite fashionable and are really very handsome. 
 
CLxFIAf^trr VEf . 
 
 SOME ELEGANT DESIGNS. — EMBROIDERED ROCKING-CHAIR 
 COVER. — A WORK-APRON. — DESIGNS FOR ELEGANT GLASS 
 MIRRORS. NEW STYLE OF SPLASHER. — BEAD EMBROID- 
 ERED NEWS RACK.— HANDSOME TABLE COVER. — A PIANO 
 SCARF IN PLUSH APPLIQUE WORK. 
 
 -«J»iOo- 
 
 LEGANT rocking-chair cover. — The very ele- 
 gant rocking-chair shown in Fig. 49 is uphol- 
 stered in hair and covered with silk plush of fche 
 peculiar shade called "drakesneck," a sort of 
 bluish -green of a deep, rich shade, which forms a 
 most exquisite background for the sprays of wild 
 rose so perfectly embroidered on the seat and 
 back in silk filoselle, and the leaves having that 
 tinge of brown and red mingled with dull green 
 so often seen in the growing bush. The arms 
 and front of the chair are finished with silk gimp 
 to match, and silk fringe of the same shade as the plush, re- 
 lieved by pink silk double ruffs at intervals. The back is 
 covered with pink plush, and the whole forms a most beau- 
 tiful chair and one that will not be ruined by reasonable 
 
 use. 
 
 [2491 
 
250 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 A Pretty Work-Apron. 
 
 A pretty little work-apron is shown in Fig. 50, made of 
 a yard of pongee silk, 18 inches wide, embroidered in etching 
 silk, the design being that old conundrum of 
 
 ' ' How doth the little busy bee 
 Improve each shining hour?" 
 
 4 
 
 Fig. 50. 
 
 Another design often used instead, represents a little girl 
 plucking the petals of a daisy, with the words 
 
 " I do n't care what the daisies say, 
 I know I'll be married some fine day. " 
 
 After the embroidery is done, a hem is turned all around 
 and neatly hemstitched, the lower end turned up to form a 
 pocket, and the apron finished with bows of silk ribbon. 
 
DESIGN FOR HAIR RECEIVER. 
 
 251 
 
 They will wash perfectly, and make charming presents 
 for girls. 
 
 r 'g- 5 
 
 Hair Receiver. 
 
 Fig. 51 is a novel and pretty hair and hair-pin receiver, 
 made of No. 12 satin ribbon of two colors interwoven in a 
 
252 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 sort of checker-board pattern, as seen in the engraving. A 
 piece of card-board in the center forms a partition, on one 
 side of which is a crocheted cushion of split zephyr to receive 
 the hair-pins, the other side being left as a hair receiver. 
 The whole is bound with satin and finished at the upper 
 edge with quilled ribbon, as seen in the illustration. The 
 fringe seen just below the quilled ribbon is made by fringing 
 about two inches of the ends of the ribbons. 
 
 Glass Mirrors. 
 
 An elegant addition to almost any room is one of the 
 beveled glass mirrors shown in Figs. 52 and 53. The frame 
 is of pine or whitewood and covered with silk plush embroid- 
 ered with arasene or with silk floss, arasene being much the 
 best as the colors are better and the general effect more rich. 
 The cuts show two very different designs, — one a vine of 
 wild clematis, and the other a spray of dogwood ; the former 
 worked on deep Indian-red plush, and the latter on a very 
 dark olive-green. They can be made of various sizes, but 
 10x10 or 12x12 for the glass is generally preferred. They 
 are quite different in appearance from the painted frames so 
 abundant in the stores, and which are usually very poor 
 specimens of amateur art. 
 
 A New Style Splasher. 
 
 Splashers are not very new, but the one shown in Fig. 54 
 is so far superior to the ordinary splasher as to merit descrip- 
 tion. It is made expressly for the purpose, being woven 
 with a band of open-work all around and a sewed fringe on 
 the four sides. The material is linen momie cloth. Along 
 the upper edge at the back, five loops of tape are sewed, 
 
Fig. 52. 
 
Fig- 53- 
 
 Fig- 55- 
 
DESIGN FOB SPLASHER 
 
 253 
 
 through which a brass or wooden rod is passed and seemed 
 to the wall by brass screw-eyes. One end of the rod is 
 made to slip off so that the splasher is easily removed to be 
 
 mm 
 
 Fig. 54- 
 
 washed, and replaced again without the usual damage to the 
 
 wall by tacking, 
 
 pretty. 
 
 The designs on them are also new and 
 
 A News Rack. 
 
 Fig. 55 is a news rack in bead embroidery. The frame 
 is of gilded wood, and the foundation for the embroider}' is 
 of deep maroon silk plush. The design of maple leaves is 
 embroidered in metal beads in various shades of olive-green 
 and brown, red-brown and yellow. The work is done very 
 much the same as crewel work, a silk thread being used, 
 and the beads strung on four or five at a time to form a long 
 or short stitch and of such colors as required. The beads can 
 be procured of every color. 
 
254 OUS HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Three-Cornered Table. 
 
 Fig. 56 represents a three-cornered table, the frame of 
 which is of gilded wood. The top is covered with shaded 
 blue plush, ornamented with a spray of wild clematis, em- 
 broidered in beads, the flowers in steel, and the leaves in 
 cut-gold. The sides are draped with shaded blue plush, 
 
 Fig. 56. 
 
 caught up in the center of each side by a large silk pompon 
 from which depend soft silk ball tassels. Long " horse-tail " 
 tassels of twisted silk of a Terra Cotta shade, are hung: at 
 each corner. A large bow of shaded satin ribbon, tied taste- 
 fully at one corner where the flower stems begin, completes 
 this very pretty table. 
 
DESIGN FOR PIANO SCARF. 955 
 
 Applique Piano Scarf. 
 
 Fig. 57 is a piano scarf for an upright in the new Mo- 
 saic embroidery, or plush applique work. The ground is of 
 lava gray plush and the design of autumn leaves is cut out 
 of a variety of shades of plush, each half leaf being a sepa- 
 rate piece and different shade. The pieces of plush are first 
 pasted down on a foundation of crinoline, and when dry, 
 cut out neatly with very sharp scissors and gummed to the 
 plush foundation. The edges are then sewed down firmly 
 with silk of the same shades as the plushes. 
 
 The neglect of this sewing down is what has caused 
 many to regard Mosaic work as lacking in durability ; but 
 if the edges are well sewed down they will not fray or 
 ravel out. After sewing down, the edges are concealed by 
 a gold or tinsel cord caught down in couching stitches. 
 A few stitches of chenille of darker shade than the plush 
 it is used on, are added to show the veining of the leaves. 
 A very pretty way of adjusting the scarf is to bring up 
 the embroidered end, throwing it over from the back, and 
 letting it hang over the front of the piano. 
 
 The work is very easily and quickly done with the ex- 
 ception of the preparation of the pattern, which requires 
 a variety of odd shades of plush not easily obtained by the 
 amateur, and without which the work loses much of its 
 beauty. The patterns, however, can be procured already 
 prepared on crinoline at any of the first-class fancy-work 
 establishments in most of the large cities. They can be 
 easily transferred to any foundation by moistening the 
 crinoline to soften the £um. 
 
 A handsome table scarf in " darned work " is shown in 
 
256 OUM HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 F«. 57- 
 
DESIGN FOR TABLE SCARF. 
 
 2.") 7 
 
 Fig." 5 8. The body of the scarf is of ecru plush. The orna- 
 mentation is of alternate squares of ecru satin, darned in a 
 geometric pattern in colored embroidery silk in a variety of 
 
 Fig. 58. 
 
 stitches, and squares of old blue plush, with a small spray 
 
 embroidered in gold and steel beads. The ends are finished 
 
 with silk fringe and four large tassels to correspond with the 
 
 satin and plush. 
 
 17 
 
258 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 It is impossible in an engraving to do justice to this 
 work, the rich, deep tints of which plush alone is capable 
 of exhibiting, being quite lost when represented by printer's 
 ink. Some of the specimens are exquisite, and by many 
 would be preferred to the most elaborate embroidery. 
 
CxFIAFTRK. VIII. 
 
 HANGINGS FOR DOORS, HALLS, AND WINDOWS. — HOW TO 
 MAKE THEM, AND OF WHAT TO MAKE THEM. — ELEGANT 
 EFFECTS AT SMALL COST. — HOW TO USE THE ODDS AND 
 ENDS IN RENDERING THE HOUSE MORE BEAUTIFUL. — 
 COST OF MATERIALS. 
 
 @22 
 
 ol*<c 
 
 ORTIERES. — A beautiful room is far more 
 « beautiful when there is no square means of egress 
 pA^^si suggesting the unpleasant idea of departure. 
 Where, however, the means are limited, one 
 pretty portiere covering, or replacing an ugly 
 door, or curtaining an outside one, gives an air 
 of taste and elegance. Midway in a hall, as in 
 the case of an outer door, drafts are prevented 
 by a heavy fall of drapery. 
 
 They should not repeat the curtains of the 
 room, but represent a separate idea, though 
 iu harmony with the room. They are frequently made 
 double to correspond with rooms of different colors. 
 
 At the end of a long room in a friend's house there was 
 a door with glass at the top, useful in dark days but making 
 an ugly cross light with the windows of the room. The 
 
 [259J 
 
260 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 lady of the house dreamed of rich stuffs while she pieced, 
 out of olive cotton flannel, four bands of cretonne in a flower 
 pattern, two narrow and two wide, and a piece of worsted 
 goods flowered on the right side but striped on the wrong, 
 none of it new, — a portiere which has been taken for some- 
 thing rich and strange, and much admired. 
 
 The lining was some old calico cut a little wider than 
 the door. At the bottom was a horizontal strip of the olive 
 cotton flannel, then a wide band of cretonne, then the striped 
 (wrong side) goods placed perpendicularly, then a narrow 
 band of cretonne, then the center of olive cotton flannel 
 with the stripes repeated toward the top. 
 
 Old Blue Blankets. 
 
 Another friend had a bare, cheap, new cottage. Money 
 was not abundant. Old grandmother-woven indigo-blue 
 woolen blankets were. She began sewing in little figures, 
 — stars, crescents, and odd stitches in colored silks, — and 
 the woolen blanket became a gorgeous fabric. It was hung 
 with wooden rings on a length of gilded gas pipe midway 
 of the bare hall, and your first impressions on entering were 
 of Eastern richness. The double blanket was more than 
 enough (heavy materials must hang nearly plain), and a 
 piano cover and traveling bag came out of the pieces. The 
 embroidery was the work of time, but it was also a work of 
 delight. 
 
 Portiere of Chinese Embroidery. 
 
 On the contrary, a New York friend, with the large 
 opportunities and splendid economy of rich people, bought, 
 at one quarter the original price, four Chinese embroidered 
 
SILK RAG AND INGRAIN CARPETS. 201 
 
 dress patterns, giving "only one hundred dollars for them." 
 With great skill she combined them in one rich portiere for a 
 large double door. 
 
 l o v 
 
 Silk Rag Carpet. 
 
 Portieres, as well as curtains, have been made of silk rag 
 carpets, — yes, nothing more or less ! Old silks, even soiled 
 and faded, are cut in strips as for carpet, and either woven 
 with cotton warp, or better still, knitted upon fine ivory 
 needles in stripes and tastefully joined together. If one can 
 be content to use only things otherwise worthless, this may 
 be desirable; but the temptation is great to cut up what 
 might be turned to better account. 
 
 *&' 
 
 Ingrain Carpet. 
 
 Another portiere we have seen is a great and lasting 
 success, for it is of solid wool which in fifty years will still 
 be firm of texture and pleasing in color. It is fine ingrain 
 carpet of beautiful olive color, quite plain. It can be bought 
 in a great variety of colors, but olive and crimson have the 
 advantage of fading handsomely. 
 
 Down one side of each breadth (there were four, for it 
 covered the space between rooms where there had been 
 double doors) was worked in Germantown wool, — a pattern 
 which was adopted from a Turkish rug. The pattern was 
 outlined in black and filled in with red, pale blue, white, 
 and a little gold-colored filoselle. The effect was so good and 
 the material so durable that a great comfortable sofa with 
 three cushions received a new dress of the same, and the 
 children play on the tough material unreproved. 
 
 Let me here suggest that all decoration in homes where 
 
262 01722 HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 there are children to be thought of (alas ! for those homes 
 where there are none) should be of firm, excellent, unfading 
 quality in accordance with the loving spirit of Mary, and 
 not cultivating the anxious one of her sister. The reward, 
 as in all right-doing, will be greater than you expect, for 
 your decoration will be better and in nobler taste. 
 
 The Dove Portiere. 
 
 Still another portiere. The idea came from nature's 
 enchanting harmony in an ordinary pigeon's colors, — one of 
 the dove-tinted, blue-green sort. The material to harmonize 
 with a light and "smiling" drawing-room was of heavy, 
 all-wool material, known as diagonal-cloth in a soft dove 
 color. It was lined with pale pink silesia. A border of 
 " crazy quilt " (see discription of crazy or Japanese quilt 
 under chapter on screens) done in blue, green, and dove 
 colors, and faint gleams of rose, was laid on at top and 
 bottom. 
 
 Velveteen. 
 
 Velveteen is a desirable material for either portieres or 
 curtains. Plush is the richest material in use. In one 
 drawing-room we have seen the wide doors from the hall 
 and library filled by portieres of plush, peacock-blue on one 
 side and crimson on the other, without decoration. The 
 effect was very rich, but one's limitations are often sugges- 
 tive, and where there are limitations there are apt to be 
 more ideas, and the charm of an idea wrought into form is 
 always greater than the mere impression of richness. 
 
 Smyrna Blankets, Prayer Carpets. 
 
 Very odd portieres are brought home by travelers from 
 the East, and imported in great quantities. Stripes of odd 
 
CURTAINS AND PRICES. 263 
 
 woolen stuff, loosely caught together by coarse woolen cord, 
 and embroidered evidently by hand, odd combinations of red, 
 black, and white can be seen in fashionable houses. " Prayer 
 Carpets," not being needed, are hung up on doors or walls. 
 
 Curtains. 
 
 In furnishing throughout, the curtains and wall-paper 
 should be bought first, and the carpet selected as a quiet ac- 
 cessory. In no case should the floor be very light or brill- 
 iant. 
 
 Prices of Material. 
 
 The price of material does not vary greatly from time to 
 time. The subjoined prices will be found nearly correct for 
 a long time to come : — 
 
 Cotton momie-cloth, 50 in. wide, in all colors, 
 
 per yd $1.10 
 
 Woolen momie-cloth, per yd 3.00 
 
 Felting, 2 yds. wide, per yd 1.50 
 
 Bolton sheeting, imported from England, per yd. 1.00 
 
 Stamped velveteen, per yd $1.25-2.00 
 
 Cotton flannel or " fashion drapery," every variety 
 
 of color, per yd 0. 90 
 
 This is double width, and alike on both sides so that no 
 lining is needed. 
 
 Crash is much used. It is woven by Russian peasants, 
 is of varying width, and in lengths from five to ten yards. 
 Care should be taken to select handsome, even pieces. The 
 widths can be loosely overhanded together, and bands of 
 trimming laid on, or braid, or any stripe of decoration can 
 
264 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 be inserted between the widths. A beautiful decoration is 
 a band of Japanese silk piecework in pretty colors, put on 
 at top and bottom. 
 
 Unbleached linen and cotton make pretty curtains. 
 The former may be beautifully worked in crewels, either 
 over the entire curtain, or a band laid on. The latter are 
 very pretty with a band of cretonne as trimming, or with 
 one of red and one of blue, or one of pink and one of blue, 
 and a gay effect is produced. 
 
 Scarfs and Book-Case Curtains. 
 
 In a friend's house we have seen an old and awkward 
 book-case converted into two pretty modern ones by saw- 
 ing the high one in two, and adding, in one case a cornice, 
 in the other a base. Some gold-colored leather was cut in 
 strips, pinked, and tacked with pretty tacks on each shelf, so 
 that much dust was kept from the books. She then added 
 a scarf of old-gold satin, embroidered with a branch of dog- 
 wood in Kensington stitch, with a band of plush and a 
 fringe as finish. Thrown over the middle of the book-case, 
 it made a graceful decoration, and afforded a pretty place 
 upon which to arrange a group of bric-a-brac, French 
 crackle ware, and odd vases. A more elegant book-case of 
 ebonized wood had a curtain in front of old-gold satin, with 
 a band about a foot wide of stamped crushed-strawberry 
 velvet. The whole could be pushed aside, for it was hung 
 with rings upon a gilded rod. 
 
 The top of an easel can often be decorated with some 
 scarf or piece of stuff which has been in the house unused 
 for years. 
 
CORRECT rilfXOIPLES OF TASTE. 
 
 205 
 
 Pkinciples of Taste. 
 
 If a lady can give sufficient thought to the subject, and 
 decide upon some good guiding rules, she can often trans- 
 form, with slight outlay, a bare and ugly house into a 
 pretty and attractive one. Let use and enduring quality 
 be in the mind, with the comfort of the household above 
 every other consideration. 
 
Gfiaf'Trf^ IX. 
 
 SCREENS. — HOW TO MAKE THEM. — MATERIALS. — HOW TO USE 
 SCREENS TO ADVANTAGE. — HOW TO MAKE SCREENS. — 
 HOW TO EBONIZE WOOD. — PAINTED SCREENS. — HOW TO 
 USE DISCARDED MATERIAL TO ADVANTAGE IN COVER- 
 ING PANELS OF SCREENS. — EMBROIDERED SCREENS. — 
 HOW TO MAKE THE FRAMES. 
 
 °X*c 
 
 OTHING breaks up the stiffness of a room, and 
 nothing serves so many odd purposes, as a fold- 
 ing screen. A lady, assisted by a carpenter, con- 
 structed a large one of four panels to make a 
 dressing-room in one corner of a large bed-room. 
 Since then it has served to conceal the bed from 
 sight in a small hotel room, to hide a Christmas 
 tree from sharp little eyes, and as a background 
 for the model in a studio. 
 
 The smaller banner and lamp screens are 
 often very useful and always graceful and pretty. 
 The frame for a panel screen may be ccnstructed by any 
 good carpenter who has well-seasoned wood to work 
 with. The wood should be about two and one-half inches 
 in width for a large screen. The two uprights of each panel 
 look well reaching about two inches below the cross-piece at 
 
 [26fi] 
 
HOW TO MAKE AND USE SCREENS. 
 
 267 
 
 the bottom. A screen of three panels, each five feet high 
 and twenty inches wide, is perhaps the best balanced. The 
 illustration here given will furnish all necessary details bet- 
 ter than a description. 
 
 Fig. 59- 
 
 Ebonized wood is undoubtedly the favorite wood, as it 
 enhances the beauty of all sorts of decoration. The follow- 
 ing is an excellent recipe for 
 
 Ebonizing Wood, 
 
 Thou oh a good carriage-maker can do better tiian any 
 amateur workman: Put a quarter of a pound of best size 
 in a stone pot, with sufficient water to cover it. Set it on 
 
268 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 the stove to melt, but do not let it boil. Then three cents' 
 worth of lamp-black, and a little blue black to improve 
 the color, should be made to the consistency of paste with 
 oil. Upon this is poured the melted size, and the two 
 mixed thoroughly together. Apply this while warm to the 
 wood, and paint thickly enough to look solid. When quite 
 diy. varnish with two coats of oil-copal varnish. This 
 should be done in a warm room free from dust. The var- 
 nish is put on with a large brush, boldly, rapidly, and 
 evenly. 
 
 If the article is to have a polished appearance, two coats 
 of varnish will answer, but three or four varnishings will be 
 needed to give it a dull finish. The rubbing down is done 
 with the finest pulverized pumice-stone, mixed with water to 
 make it about the thickness of cream, and rubbed on with a 
 piece of rag. The rubbing must continue till all inequali- 
 ties disappear and the surface is as smooth as glass. It has 
 then to be dried with a cloth and polished again with tripoli 
 and sweet oil. After drying a second time with soft linen, 
 rub it with starch pow T der, and finish it with a clean, soft 
 linen cloth until you can see your face in the polished sur- 
 face. A single grain of sand or grit on any of the cloths 
 would injure the surface. 
 
 Bamboo Screens. 
 
 Bamboo screens and easels are very popular. We have 
 known them to be made from fishing rods, but suppose the 
 bamboo must now be imported on purpose. 
 
 Tripods and Fire-Screens. 
 
 The handsome stands are made of gilded iron, having a 
 solid base, a slender upright, and a cross-piece from which 
 
COVERING AND DECORATING SCREENS. 269 
 
 the banner screen is suspended. In England, where an open 
 fire is in almost every room, fire-screens are much in use. 
 Modern ones are of gilded iron, and screwed to the mantel, 
 the banner protecting the eyes of those sitting before the fire. 
 
 An Old Clothes-Horse. 
 
 This frame- work needs but slight explanation, and can 
 often be found in a somewhat dilapidated condition in the 
 kitchen garret. From thence it can be brought, ebonized 
 or painted in successive coats of Venetian or Indian red, and 
 covered to suit the taste. 
 
 The Covering and Decoration of Screens. 
 
 Perhaps the handsomest screens are those which are 
 painted by hand. We own to a prejudice against painting on 
 silk or satin. Fine painting should be on a more enduring 
 material, and poor painting should only be done as a stepping- 
 stone to what is better. After putting magnesia on the 
 back and using your oil-color without additional oil, the 
 color will " run " a little. 
 
 As for water-color, you have to use body color, (Chinese 
 white mixed with the ordinary water-colors), and the result 
 is a dry surface which seems ready to crack off like white- 
 wash. Nevertheless, we haveseen some fine effects produced 
 both with oil and water-color. French artists of name and 
 fame have not scorned fan decoration upon silk and satin. 
 Unless, however, great skill has been acquired, we would ad- 
 vise one of the following methods: — 
 
 1. Painting with oil-color upon some kind of canvas in- 
 tended for the purpose. 
 
 2. Painting with water-color upon paper and protecting 
 
 the work with glass. 
 
270 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 3. Embroidery which seems the dower right of rich stuffs, 
 a most natural and beautiful decoration. 
 
 4. Applique work, either onlaid or inlaid, and — 
 
 5. A plain surface adorned with odd bits of decoration, 
 birds, fans, pieces of heavy lace, etc. 
 
 As to the first, picture canvas is heavy and very expen- 
 sive. We have found oil window shading a very good substi- 
 tute, and we have been told that book-binder's cloth serves 
 equally well. Either can be nicely stretched upon the 
 frame, the edge covered with narrow worsted braid, which 
 comes at a cheap rate in thirty-six yard pieces, and tacked 
 with upholsterer's tacks. This makes the back of the screen 
 neat, and a pretty color of canvas-buff or stone color can be 
 selected. 
 
 Flowers have long been a favorite decoration, though 
 many speak of the difficulty of finding designs of sufficient 
 size and importance for a large screen. It is well to decide 
 upon the design for all of the panels before beginning to 
 paint. 
 
 A Pretty Idea 
 
 Is to have the first panel for the spring, the second midsum- 
 mer, the third for autumn. The first could be either a long 
 branch or double branch of peach or apple blossoms, set, per- 
 haps, in a brown vase upon a pretty table-cover. The back- 
 ground could be a pale yellowish tint. The second might be 
 a mass of roses hanging down from the top with a soft, gray 
 background. The third could be a great branch of white 
 chrysanthemums coming well across the panel from the left, 
 with some crimson and gold blossoms near the frame of the 
 screen, as if one hand held the three branches. 
 
COVERING AND DECORATING SCREENS. 271 
 
 Flowers and Figures from Nature. 
 
 In studying flowers it is well not to cut them, but paint 
 a selected branch while it still grows and rejoices. A branch 
 of chrysanthemums or azaleas can never be placed as beauti- 
 fully as it places itself upon the parent stem. 
 
 Figures are very appropriate for a screen, but there are 
 not many unprofessional artists who have studied the figure 
 sufficiently to produce satisfactory results. One young lady 
 having great talent, evolved, after some study, a screen from 
 a frame made by a carpenter, and some burlaps for canvas, 
 upon which (it had but two panels) she painted a knight 
 and a lady. She served, with the aid of a long mirror, for 
 her own model for the lady, and an unwilling brother was 
 drummed into service as the knight. The burlaps had a 
 sizing of paste to fill up the interstices and save paint. 
 
 A Stationary Screen. 
 
 We have seen a sort of partition screen built across a hall 
 to couvert the back part into a boy's bed-room. The frame 
 wa* painted a dull red. The burlap was stretched, and a 
 pretty group of peacock feathers arranged upon it, with a 
 bow of some gay striped stuff holding the stems. It was in 
 an inconspicuous place, and the effect was excellent. 
 
 Water-Colors. 
 
 Each panel can be divided into sections by a band of 
 wood. The frame is thus strengthened, and neither the 
 picture nor the glass need be so large. In the water-color 
 exhibitions in London, solid screens serve as hanging places 
 for mauy small sketches which would stand but a poor 
 chance among the large frames on the wall. 
 
CxKi^JPTRF* X. 
 
 EMBROIDERED SCREENS. — JAPANESE PIECE-WORK. — A PAT- 
 RIOTIC SCREEN. — NEW USES OF OLD MATERIAL. — A 
 QUEER USE FOR AN OLD CLOTHES-HORSE. — LAMBRE- 
 QUINS. — TABLES. — CABINETS. — ODDS AND ENDS. — USE 
 UP THE PIECES. 
 
 o»Cc 
 
 jHE variety here is immense. All rich stuffs, 
 plush, satin, silk, and embossed materials, are 
 handsome and may be heavily embroidered, or 
 some slight spray worked upon them. 
 
 Sail-cloth makes an exellent panel upon which 
 to embroider figures in outline embroidery. The 
 stamping can be done in most towns, or an 
 ingenious person can transfer designs. 
 
 Cretonne makes a pretty screen. It can be 
 embroidered by working in the high lights in 
 silk. Many cover it with embroidery, but this 
 hardly pays. The first screen we ever saw, consisted of one 
 panel, and was made from the rich-flowered dressing-gown 
 of one of the ancestors of the family. 
 
 A plain stretch of felting in any pretty color makes a 
 beautiful background on which to arrange a group of 
 [272] 
 
JAPANESE PIECEWORK. 273 
 
 feathers, a stuffed bird, or a pair of Japanese fans with the 
 handles crossed and tied with a bow of ribbon in a pretty 
 contrasting color. A pair of bird's wings, those of wild 
 ducks are very nice, and a fan made of two pretty pieces 
 of wall-paper laid in folds and held together at one end (an 
 ordinary folding fan) with a large bow of ribbon, looks 
 well. This same decoration in larger shape looks well on the 
 wall. 
 
 A good use to make of one of those interesting old 
 " samplers " which are stowed away in so many houses is to 
 stretch it upon a pretty stuff panel of a screen and fasten at 
 each corner with a bow of ribbon. If used in a screen with 
 more than one panel, the others may be filled with 
 
 Japanese Piecework. 
 
 Collect a quantity of scraps of ribbon, brocade, satin, 
 velvet, plush, and silk. If the pieces are small and odd in 
 shape, so much the better. Take squares of old muslin, 
 lay over them a half thickness of wadding, then baste oja 
 the pieces, turning in or covering the edges. Put them on 
 in as fantastic a way as possible. Many embroider the 
 larger spaces with palettes, crescents, arrows, butterflies, two 
 rings interlocked, or any odd design, and cover all the seams 
 with feather stitch or point russe. Much embroidery is not 
 necessary; we have seen blocks which had a loaded ap- 
 pearance. Having finished blocks 'enough for the space, 
 sew them nicely together, line, and stretch in your screen. 
 
 Let us here recommend as a constant friend and helper 
 to one new in the art of designing, an illustrated dictionary. 
 You will find pretty shields, birds, insects, Egyptian symbols, 
 and a host of other suggestive designs. 
 
 18 
 
-274 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 One panel of piecework could be varied by a diagonal 
 band of plush, or a corner of the same; or the band could be 
 of cloth, and if some learned friend would suggest a Sanscrit 
 or Hebrew motto, it could be cut out and appliqued on. We 
 have seen a beautiful hanging with an adornment of this 
 kind, the letters being about six inches in length, and of 
 black on a lighter ground. 
 
 We think some ingenious woman could make a 
 
 Patriotic Screen 
 
 Which would be useful and striking. Take the army blue 
 coat which some brave husband or brother wore home. 
 Those belonging to the heroic dead are perhaps too sacred to 
 be converted even into a thing of beauty. The frame could 
 be painted with a succession of coats of Venetian red rubbed 
 smooth with pumice-stone and water. The light blue cloth 
 could be stretched, and the edges at the back of the screen 
 covered with a narrow, dark blue braid and tacked on with 
 fancy brass tacks. Across the light blue field could be laid 
 a diagonal band of dark blue cloth, fastened on with red 
 and gold stitches and with army buttons at intervals. 
 "Upon the dark blue could be outlined in red, odd designs, 
 some favorite motto, or a line from an army hymn. 
 
 The cap, sword, spurs, and pistol make a handsome 
 group on the wall with a background of crimson felt. 
 Small banner screens (see illustration p. 275) are very 
 pretty. The ground- work is of pale blue satin. The border 
 in applique is of dark blue velvet, embroidered in crimson 
 and gold. The leaves are of velvet, and the stems and 
 tendrils of chenille. Any material may be used with this 
 design. The cords and tassels are sometimes of beads, but in 
 any case they must harmonize in color. 
 
COVERING AND DECORATING SCREENS. 975 
 
 Lamp Screens. 
 
 Very pretty lamp screens are made in the same way, and 
 mounted upon smaller tripod stands. 
 
 Odd Fan Screens. 
 
 The frame is made of two uprights of bamboo fishing 
 rod joined at the top with a piece of bamboo about two 
 
276 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 inches in length, neatly glued and tacked in. The uprights 
 are cut off within about four inches of the floor, and three 
 short legs are fastened on so as to make a firm spread base. 
 The thickest part of the rod serves for these legs, which are 
 cut off so as to stand firm upon the floor. A small square 
 
 Fig. 6 1. 
 
 of ebonized wood, or a little Japanese tray or box-cover, 
 forms the front of a block in which six Japanese fans are 
 set. The handles have to be somewhat cut off so as to fit 
 the holes and radiate like the petals of a flower. A double 
 purpose is served, — a screen in winter and a fan stand in 
 summer. 
 
 Mrs. Gen. Sheridan saw one made from this design, and 
 has ordered several from a handy workman who has learned 
 to join the bamboo nicely. 
 
 / 
 
5^- LACE LAMBREQUIN. -2=5= 
 
LAMBREQUINS AND TABLES. 277 
 
 Old Clothes-Horse Screen. 
 
 The frame- work was ebonizecl, the hinges were made of 
 two long strips of old-gold colored leather, the two making 
 the length of the upright. They were tacked on with brass 
 nails on the right side of one panel, on the wrong side of the 
 other, and vice versa. A little piece of the wood was cut 
 away under the hinges to let the frame fold. The panels 
 were covered with some old linen curtains brought from the 
 garret. They were nicely stretched, covered with Christ- 
 mas and birthday cards, with a border of fancy paper, then 
 varnished with white copal varnish. 
 
 Lambrequins. 
 
 They are not as much in use as formerly, being super- 
 seded by a valence which will shove aside with the curtains. 
 Their stationary character, and the fact that they exclude 
 the light from the top, whence it is so desirable, has served 
 to make them unpopular, though they are still made in rich 
 material, cut in all manner of forms, and trimmed with 
 fringe and heavy gimps. 
 
 Tables. 
 
 Many an old table could be made good-looking and use- 
 ful by ebonizing the lower part, laying a thickness of wad- 
 ding over the top, and covering with a piece of crimson 
 felting. Braid or ribbon could be appliqued on a band to 
 go round' the table, and the edge could be trimmed with 
 worsted fringe. I have seen a half-moon-shaped table 
 covered with dark blue cloth, and with a fall of worsted 
 embroidery which was worked in subdivisions by half a 
 
278 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 dozen different friends. A clover-leaf table is now often 
 covered with fine crash, and the fall embroidered in crewels. 
 
 Table-Cover. 
 
 The illustration shows a completed design of an orna- 
 mental table-cover. The cover is often made very much 
 
 Fig. 62. 
 
 longer, affording an excellent opportunity for decoration, 
 and adding, of course, to the cost and labor of making. 
 
 This cover is of fawn-colored cloth, ornamented 
 elaborately on the ends in application embroidery. 
 
ANTIQUE FURNITURE. 279 
 
 The design figures which look dark in the illustration 
 are applied in brown cloth ; and on each leaf of the large 
 middle application figure, apply a piece of dark brown vel- 
 vet. Edge all the applied figures with fawn-colored soutache, 
 and besides, ornament the pieces of velvet in point russe 
 embroidery with fawn-colored saddler's silk. For the lines 
 of the design, sew on broad soutache in two shades. The 
 cover is bordered with light brown, open silk fringe, an inch 
 and a quarter w T ide. The lining is brown percale. 
 
 A Friendship Cushion 
 
 Is divided by black lines into squares a few inches across, 
 and tilled in to suit the taste of each worker. 
 
 Japanese quilt, described under chapter on screens, 
 makes a handsome chair or sofa cushion, especially so with 
 a diagonal band of plush across it. 
 
 Odds and Ends. 
 
 There is just now a great fancy for the old-fashioned 
 flax wheel with a tuft of flax tied to the spindle with 
 ribbons. It is certainly a picturesque object, and very 
 suggestive of the old and charming industry by which our 
 o-randmothers furnished their linen closets with the ex- 
 eel lent material of which stray table-cloths and tray-cloths 
 come down as heirlooms. We have seen a tiny wheel 
 gilded. It was very pretty, but somewhat theatrical. 
 
 Cabinets 
 
 Are the rage at present. We saw T one lately which had 
 adorned a garret for years. It now occupies the place of 
 honor between the front windows in a handsome house. It 
 
280 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 has been ebonized, to be sure, and the panels of the doors 
 gilded, and a border in brown and gold painted across the 
 top of each panel ; but the old thing seems puzzled to find 
 itself once more " the top shelf," and seems to consider itself 
 an illustration of the ups and downs in this world. 
 
 From Nuremburg have come countless old treasures of 
 this sort. We think perhaps the old and dusty city parts 
 gladly with some of its age and general mustiness, and 
 replaces the old things with new. We Americans, in our 
 newness, are equally charmed to acquire things which were 
 old one hundred years ago. Many fine old cabinets come 
 from Holland, and Italy gives up many treasures to the 
 hordes of Americans who come armed with the invincible 
 dollar. 
 
 Hall Benches. 
 
 Beautiful inlaid hall benches come in great numbers 
 from Milan, Genoa, and Florence. We have heard of three 
 within as many weeks coming to the West. All along the 
 Hudson River there are treasures of old Dutch work to be 
 seen, claw-footed "breeches," a sort of buffet and stout- 
 backed old chairs in mahogany. Once upon a time the 
 garret of one of the old Dutch houses in Albany gave up its 
 own, and the rush of curiosity seekers was immense. The 
 South is now considered a promising field for the old furni- 
 ture buyer. We have seen a handsome, old-fashioned 
 mahogany sideboard brought from there, which was of use 
 and beauty far beyond the narrow, "high shouldered" 
 things we are accustomed to see. 
 
 Be Original! 
 
 It is a pity that every man and woman in furnishing a 
 house cannot work after the fashion of " The Chambered 
 
ANTIQUE FURNITURE. 281 
 
 Nautilus," making their own house and furniture, or at least 
 having it made, after their own needs and notions. This 
 originality is the great charm of the antique. 
 
 The furniture was not turned out by the thousand, but 
 each piece was constructed either to fill an order or all "out 
 of the carver's brain," so that to this, to any day, the charm 
 of human expression hangs about the work. 
 
 I think the rage for the antique in furniture, so far as it 
 is a fashion, will pass away; but interesting old things will 
 always be treasured by those who feel the charm of old 
 associations. 
 
 Use up the Pieces. 
 
 A friend indulged not long ago in some crimson felt for 
 a screen. There were some pieces left. With the largest, 
 she made the center of a scarf table-cloth, putting some striped 
 stuff on each end ; and then there were some long ribbons 
 of the felt left. She feather-stitched them in old-gold, and 
 threaded them into a willow chair, where they did much 
 better than ribbons, not fading, and looking more like use. 
 A little piece still remained. She lined it with pasteboard, 
 first having worked the motto, "Fast Bind, Fast Find,'' 
 upon it, and made an excellent brush-broom holder for the 
 hat rack. 
 
Ghaptrr XI. 
 
 SOME NEW DESIGNS IN EMBROIDERY. — LAMBREQUIN AND 
 CURTAINS. — MATERIALS TO USE, AND HOW TO CON- 
 STRUCT. — AN ELEGANT SOFA PILLOW. — A NEW AP- 
 PLIQUE DESIGN. — LACE LAMBREQUIN. 
 
 ^o^c 
 
 [AMBREQUIN AND CURTAINS.— The illus- 
 tration is so plain that most ladies can easily 
 construct the set with but few suggestions. The 
 materials may he readily suited to the means and 
 
 ^ taste of the owner. The lambrequin is com- 
 posed of three pieces, their sizes, of course, being 
 determined by the window. Each of the side 
 pieces has three plaits turning inward, and the 
 center piece three plaits running cross-wise. 
 The trimmings may be put on to suit the taste,' 
 the heavier and richer the material, the better 
 the effect. The curtains may be canton flannel 
 trimmed with lace, or of any material harmoniz- 
 
 ing with the lambrequin. 
 
 Sofa Pillow. 
 
 The material for this really elegant piece should be of 
 good quality. The embroidery is worked in the Janina 
 stitch, and shows off to most excellent advantage. The fol- 
 lowing colors look quite well, and we recommend the com- 
 bination here suggested : Flowers, blue silk ; stamens, 
 yellow and red; large leaves, olive green ; and wood, 
 brown. The stems, small leaves, and straight lines of the 
 border, are worked with golden -brown silk in three shades, 
 the stems being darker. The buds are Avorked in violet 
 and cream-colored silk, and the leaves near them in light 
 green. Edge the top with heavy cord, and finish the 
 [2821 
 
CURTAINS AND LAMBREQUINS. 
 
 2.s:i 
 
 very 
 
 made 
 
 which 
 
 corners with tassels. The material may be some dark cloth, 
 suitable to the taste and purse of the possessor. 
 
 Applique De- 
 sign for Mantel 
 or Window. — This 
 design would be 
 elegant if 
 of plush, 
 is now the 
 most popular ma- 
 terial. It may, how- 
 ever, be worked in 
 silk, felt, or flannel ; 
 in either case, cut 
 out your pansies 
 from velvet. This 
 flower has so many 
 hues, colors, and 
 shades, that odd 
 bits of material, as 
 dark red, purple, 
 white, old gold, ma- 
 roon, — in fact, any 
 tint, — may easily 
 be worked in with 
 most excellent ef- 
 fect, two shades be- 
 ing used for each 
 flower. The leaves 
 and buds are made 
 of green, and the 
 stems of shaded 
 green. When com- 
 pleted, press the 
 work on the wrong 
 side, lining it with some suitable heavy material. Work 
 the stems in vine chain stitch. For richness of effect, we 
 do not think this design is surpassed. Directions for ap- 
 plique work are given on page 241. 
 
 The Lace Lambrequin, illustrated opposite page 284, 
 is elegant, and when the other drapery is of lace, it is very 
 
 Curtain and Lambrequin. 
 
284 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Pillow in Janina Stitch. 
 
 Applique 
 
 appropriate. These lam- 
 brequins can be found at 
 the stores ready made, 
 with nothing to do but 
 fasten them to the cor- 
 nice, which should be 
 made to stand out so 
 as to hold the lambre- 
 quin clear of the cur- 
 tains. The variety of 
 designs is almost infin- 
 ite, those with fern 
 leaves being preferred. 
 
Ch^f^trr XII . 
 
 FURNISHINGS. — THE HALL. — ITS IMPRESSION UPOX VISIT- 
 ORS. — THE PARLOR. — DINING-ROOM. — HOW TO FUR- 
 NISH THEM AT REASONABLE COST. — EBONIZING WOOD. 
 — HOME-MADE MANTELS, RUGS, CARPETS, ETC. 
 
 oj^o 
 
 HE suggestions made in the following pages, are 
 offered as such. No authority, however high, 
 can fix rules which will be followed by those 
 whose originality leads them to decorate and fur- 
 nish their homes in good taste without regard to 
 fashion. 
 
 The Hall. — A very recent and trustworthy 
 writer says: " The entrance of a house indicates 
 the character of the entire building, the lower 
 hall and vestibule often furnishing the key-note 
 to the whole interior. This key-note addressed 
 to the eye should be pitched low ; there should be no striking 
 brilliancy of color, although warm tones ai*e admissible, but 
 a leading up, as it were, to the richer hues and more elabo- 
 rate adornments of the sheltered apartments." 
 
 Ordinary halls are too small for much display, if here 
 were the place for display. Where the dimensions of the hall 
 
 [285] 
 
28G OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 will permit, a hall table, made of such material as will sug- 
 gest strength and durability, flanked on each side with 
 chairs of like design, are not out of place. A small bracket, 
 
 Fig- 63. 
 
 supporting an antique jar or other bric-a-brac, is often very 
 appropriate, as is also a neat holder for whisp or brush, the^e 
 being valuable adjuncts to any hall. 
 
HOW TO FURNISH ROOMS. 
 
 287 
 
 Where the hall is small, a mirror framed in such a way 
 as to admit of pegs for hats and coats is, perhaps, as appro- 
 
 Fig. 64. 
 
 priate as can be wished. Fig. 63 gives a very pretty design. 
 Such a design may be cut out with a scroll-saw or by your 
 
288 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 own carpenter, and ebonized according to the recipe given 
 in this work, and furnished with a mirror, at little cost. 
 Ebonized wood for such furniture is quite popular. 
 
 A more commodious, and of course, more costly, style of 
 hat, coat, and umbrella rack, with mirror and drawers, is 
 shown in Fig. 64. 
 
 The floor can be treated as the means and taste of the 
 owner dictate. Tiles have been suggested already, but less 
 costly material may be selected, as oil carpet, or Lineoleum, — 
 a thick, durable covering resembling oil carpet, but made of 
 ground cork. A plain or stained floor with a neat rug often 
 makes a pretty appearance. 
 
 The Reception-Room, Parlor, and Library. 
 
 The question of first importance in the furnishing of the 
 drawing-room, parlor, or in fact any room, is whether the 
 floor, ceilings, and walls are to be the background for deco- 
 rative objects, or are themselves to furnish the decorative 
 features. If the walls and ceilings are covered with costly 
 and showy paper, and the floor carpeted with brilliant 
 colors, no furniture, however costly, will show off to good 
 effect, as opinions on the subjects are very decided. Then 
 let this question first be settled before a single step is taken 
 toward furnishing the room. Under chapters I to VII, 
 will be found practical suggestions upon the treatment of 
 walls, ceilings, etc. 
 
 Regarding carpets, much might be said and with little 
 effect, as opinions on this subject are very decided. One 
 who gets glimpses of many parlors, has observed that in the 
 average home the carpet is too costly for the other fur- 
 nishings of the room. 
 
JAPANESE PIECEWORK. 273 
 
 feathers, a stuffed bird, or a pair of Japanese fans with the 
 handles crossed and tied with a bow of ribbon in a pretty 
 contrasting color. A pair of bird's wings, those of wild 
 ducks are very nice, and a fan made of two pretty pieces 
 of wall-paper laid in folds and held together at one end (an 
 ordinary folding fan) with a large bow of ribbon, looks 
 well. This same decoration in larger shape looks well on the 
 wall. 
 
 A good use to make of one of those interesting old 
 " samplers " which are stowed away in so many houses is to 
 stretch it upon a pretty stuff panel of a screen and fasten at 
 each corner with a bow of ribbon. If used in a screen with 
 more than one panel, the others may be filled with 
 
 Japanese Piecework. 
 
 Collect a quantity of scraps of ribbon, brocade, satin, 
 velvet, plush, and silk. If the pieces are small and odd in 
 shape, so much the better. Take squares of old muslin, 
 lay over them a half thickness of wadding, then baste on 
 the pieces, turning in or covering the edges. Put them on 
 in as fantastic a way as possible. Many embroider the 
 larger- spaces with palettes, crescents, arrows, butterflies, two 
 rings interlocked, or any odd design, and cover all the seams 
 with feather stitch or point russe. Much embroidery is not 
 necessary; we have seen blocks which had a loaded ap- 
 pearance. Having finished blocks enough for the space, 
 sew them nicely together, line, and stretch in your screen. 
 
 Let us here recommend as a constant friend and helper 
 to one new in the art of designing, an illustrated dictionary. 
 You will find pretty shields, birds, insects, Egyptian symbols, 
 and a host of other suggestive designs. 
 
 18 
 
274 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 One panel of piecework could be varied by a diagonal 
 band of plush, or a corner of the same; or the band could be 
 of cloth, and if some learned friend would suggest a Sanscrit 
 or Hebrew motto, it could be cut out and appliqued on. We 
 have seen a beautiful hanging with an adornment of this 
 kind, the letters being about six inches in length, and of 
 black on a lighter ground. 
 
 "We think some ingenious woman could make a 
 
 Patriotic Screen 
 
 Which would be useful and striking. Take the army blue 
 coat which some brave husband or brother wore home. 
 Those belonging to the heroic dead are perhaps too sacred to 
 be converted even into a thing of beauty. The frame could 
 be painted with a succession of coats of Venetian red rubbed 
 smooth with pumice-stone and water. The light blue cloth 
 could be stretched, and the edges at the back of the screen 
 covered with a narrow, dark blue braid and tacked on with 
 fancy brass tacks. Across the light blue field could be laid 
 a diagonal band of dark blue cloth, fastened on with red 
 and gold stitches and- with army buttons at intervals. 
 Upon the dark blue could be outlined in red, odd designs, 
 some favorite motto, or a line from an army hymn. 
 
 The cap, sword, spurs, and pistol make a handsome 
 group on the wall with a background of crimson felt. 
 Small banner screens (see illustration p. 275) are very 
 pretty. The ground-work is of pale blue satin. The border 
 in applique is of dark blue velvet, embroidered in crimson 
 and gold. The leaves are of velvet, and the stems and 
 tendrils of chenille. Any material may be used with this 
 design. The cords and tassels are sometimes of beads, but in 
 any case they must harmonize in color. 
 
COVERING AND DECORATING SCREENS. 275 
 
 Lamp Screens. 
 
 Very pretty lamp screens are made in the same way, and 
 mounted upon smaller tripod stands. 
 
 Odd Fan Screens. 
 
 The frame is made of two uprights of bamboo fishing 
 rod joined at the top with a piece of bamboo about two 
 
276 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 inches in length, neatly glued and tacked in. The uprights 
 are cut off within about four inches of the floor, and three 
 short legs are fastened on so as to make a firm spread base. 
 The thickest part of the rod serves for these legs, which are 
 cut off so as to stand firm upon the floor. A small square 
 
 Fig. 6 1. 
 
 of ebonized wood, or a little Japanese tray or box-cover, 
 forms the front of a block in which six Japanese fans are 
 set. The handles have to be somewhat cut off so as to fit 
 the holes and radiate like the petals of 1 a flower. A double 
 purpose is served, — a screen in winter and a fan stand in 
 summer. 
 
 Mrs. Gen. Sheridan saw one made from this design, and 
 has ordered several from a handy workman who has learned 
 to join the bamboo nicely. 
 
LACE LAMBREQUIN. -^ 
 
LAMBREQUINS AND TABLES. 277 
 
 Old Clothes-Horse Screen. 
 
 The frame- work was ebonized, the hinges were made of 
 two long strips of old-gold colored leather, the two making 
 the length of the upright. They were tacked on with brass 
 nails on the right side of one panel, on the wrong side of the 
 other, and vice versa. A little piece of the wood was cut 
 away under the hinges to let the frame fold. The panels 
 were covered with some old linen curtains brought from the 
 garret. They were nicely stretched, covered with Christ- 
 mas and birthday cards, with a border of fancy paper, then 
 varnished with white copal varnish. 
 
 Lambrequins. 
 
 They are not as much in use as formerly, being super- 
 seded by a valence which will shove aside with the curtains. 
 Their stationary character, and the fact that they exclude 
 the light from the top, whence it is so desirable, has served 
 to make them unpopular, though they are still made in rich 
 material, cut in all manner of forms, and trimmed with 
 fringe and heavy gimps. 
 
 Tables. 
 
 Many an old table could be made good-looking and use- 
 ful by ebonizing the lower part, laying a thickness of wad- 
 ding over the top, and covering with a piece of crimson 
 felting. Braid or ribbon could be appliqued on a band to 
 go round the table, and the edge could be trimmed with 
 worsted fringe. I have seen a half-moon-shaped table 
 covered with dark blue cloth, and with a fall of worsted 
 embroidery which was worked in subdivisions by half a 
 
278 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 dozen different friends. A clover-leaf table is now often 
 covered with fine crash, and the fall embroidered in crewels. 
 
 Table-Cover. 
 
 The illustration shows a completed design of an orna- 
 mental table-cover. The cover is often made very much 
 
 Fig. 62. 
 
 longer, affording an excellent opportunity for decoration, 
 and adding, of course, to the cost and labor of making. 
 
 This cover is of fawn-colored cloth, ornamented 
 elaborately on the ends in application embroidery. 
 
ANTIQUE FURNITURE. 279 
 
 The design figures which look dark in the illustration 
 are applied in brown cloth ; and on each leaf of the large 
 middle application figure, apply a piece of dark brown vel- 
 vet. Edge all the applied figures with fawn-colored soutache, 
 and besides, ornament the pieces of velvet in point rus.se 
 embroidery with fawn-colored saddler's silk. For the hues 
 of the design, sew on broad soutache in two shades. The 
 cover is bordered with light brown, open silk fringe, an inch 
 and a quarter wide. The lining is brown percale. 
 
 A Friendship Cushion 
 
 Is divided by black lines into squares a few inches across, 
 and rilled in to suit the taste of each worker. 
 
 Japanese quilt, described under chapter on screens, 
 makes a handsome chair or sofa cushion, especially so with 
 a diagonal band of plush across it. 
 
 Odds and Ends. 
 
 There is just now a great fancy for the old-fashioned 
 flax wheel with a tuft of flax tied to the spindle with 
 ribbons. It is certainly a picturesque object, and very 
 suggestive of the old and charming industry by which our 
 grandmothers furnished their linen closets with the ex- 
 cellent material of which stray table-cloths and tray-cloths 
 come down as heirlooms. We have seen a tiny wheel 
 gilded. It was very pretty, but somewhat theatrical. 
 
 Cabinets 
 
 Are the rage at present. We saw one lately which had 
 adorned a garret for years. It now occupies the place of 
 honor between the front windows in a handsome house. It 
 
280 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 has been ebonized, to be sure, and the panels of the doors 
 gilded, and a border in brown and gold painted across the 
 top of each panel ; but the old thing seems puzzled to find 
 itself once more " the top shelf," and seems to consider itself 
 an illustration of the ups and downs in this world. 
 
 From Nuremburg have come countless old treasures of 
 this sort. We think perhaps the old and dusty city parts 
 gladly with some of its age and general mustiness, and 
 replaces the old things with new. We Americans, in our 
 newness, are equally charmed to acquire things which were 
 old one hundred years ago. Many fine old cabinets come 
 from Holland, and Italy gives up many treasures to the 
 hordes of Americans who come armed with the invincible 
 dollar. 
 
 Hall Benches. 
 
 Beautiful inlaid hall benches come in great numbers 
 from Milan, Genoa, and Florence. We have heard of three 
 within as many weeks coming to the West. All along the 
 Hudson River there are treasures of old Dutch work to be 
 seen, claw-footed "breeches," a sort of buffet and stout- 
 backed old chairs in mahogany. Once upon a time the 
 garret of one of the old Dutch houses in Albany gave up its 
 own, and the rush of curiosity seekers was immense. The 
 South is now considered a promising field for the old furni- 
 ture buyer. We have seen a handsome, old-fashioned 
 mahogany sideboard brought from there, which was of use 
 and beauty far beyond the narrow, " high shouldered " 
 things we are accustomed to see. 
 
 Be Original! 
 
 It is a pity that every man and woman in furnishing a 
 house cannot work after the fashion of " The Chambered 
 
ANTIQUE FURNITURE. 281 
 
 Nautilus, " making their own house and furniture, or at least 
 havinsr it made, after their own needs and notions. This 
 
 c"» 
 
 originality is the great charm of the antique. 
 
 The furniture was not turned out by the thousand, but 
 each piece was constructed either to fill an order or all "out 
 of the carver's brain," so that to this, to any day, the charm 
 of human expression hangs about the work. 
 
 I think the rage for the antique in furniture, so far as it 
 is a fashion, will pass away; but interesting old things will 
 always be treasured by those who feel the charm of old 
 associations. 
 
 Use up the Pieces. 
 
 A friend indulged not long ago in some crimson felt for 
 a screen. There were some pieces left. With the largest, 
 .she made the center of a scarf table-cloth, putting some striped 
 stuff on each end ; and then there were some long ribbons 
 of the felt left. She feather-stitched them in old-gold, and 
 threaded them into a willow chair, where they did much 
 better than ribbons, not fading, and looking more like use. 
 A little piece still remained. She lined it with pasteboard, 
 first having worked the motto, "Fast Bind, Fast Find," 
 upon it, and made an excellent brush-broom holder for the 
 hat rack. 
 
G.HAPTRE XI. 
 
 SOME NEW DESIGNS IN EMBROIDERY. — LAMBREQUIN AND 
 CURTAINS. — MATERIALS TO USE, AND HOW TO CON- 
 STRUCT. — AN ELEGANT SOFA PILLOW. — A NEW AP- 
 PLIQUE DESIGN. — LACE LAMBREQUIN. 
 
 ^»oJ*:c 
 
 AMBREQUIN AND CURTAINS.— The illus- 
 tration is so plain that most ladies «can easily 
 construct the set with but few suggestions. The 
 materials may be readily .suited to the means and 
 taste of the owner. The lambrequin is com- 
 posed of three pieces, their sizes, of course, being- 
 determined by the window. Each of the side 
 pieces has three plaits turning inward, and the 
 center piece three plaits running cross-wise. 
 t The trimmings may be put on to suit the taste, 
 the heavier and richer the material, the better 
 the effect. The curtains may be canton flannel 
 trimmed with lace, or of any material harmoniz- 
 ing with the lambrequin. 
 
 Sofa Pillow. 
 
 The material for this really elegant piece should be of 
 good quality. The embroidery is worked in the Janina 
 stitch, and shows oft* to most excellent advantage. The fol- 
 lowing colors look quite well, and we recommend the com- 
 bination here suggested : Flowers, blue silk ; stamens, 
 yellow and red; lai-ge leaves, olive green ; and wood, 
 brown. The stems, small leaves, and straight lines of the 
 border, are worked with golden-brown silk in three shades, 
 the stems being darker. The buds are worked in violet 
 and cream-colored silk, and the leaves near them in light 
 green. Edge the top with heavy cord, and finish the 
 
 C2821 
 
CURTAINS AND LAMBREQUINS. 
 
 l'n:; 
 
 corners with tassels. The material may be some dark cloth, 
 suitable to the taste and purse of the possessor. 
 
 Applique De- 
 sign for Mantel 
 or Windoiv. — This 
 design would be 
 very elegant if 
 made of plush, 
 which is now the 
 most popular ma- 
 terial. It may, how- 
 ever, be worked in 
 silk, felt, or flannel; 
 in either case, cut 
 out your pansies 
 from velvet. This 
 flower has so many 
 hues, colors, and 
 shades, that odd 
 bits of material, as 
 dark red, purple, 
 white, old gold, ma- 
 roon, — in fact, any 
 tint, — may easily 
 be worked in with 
 most excellent ef- 
 fect, two shades be- 
 ing used for each 
 flower. The leaves 
 and buds are made 
 of green, and the 
 stems of shaded 
 
 green. When com- 
 es 
 
 pleted. pre&s the 
 work on the wrong 
 
 ag!gSi8tr&?8r. - <i ay 
 
 Curtain and Lambrequin. 
 
 side, lining it with some suitable heavy material. Work 
 the stems in vine chain stitch. For richness of effect, we 
 do not think this design is surpassed. Directions for ap- 
 plique work are given on page 241. 
 
 ■The Lace Lambrequin, illustrated opposite page 284, 
 is elegant, and when the other drapery is of lace, it is very 
 
284 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Pillow in Janina Stitch. 
 
 Applique 
 
 appropriate. These lam- 
 brequins can be found at 
 the stores ready made, 
 with nothing to do but 
 fasten them to the cor- 
 nice, which should be 
 made to stand out so 
 as to hold the lambre- 
 quin clear of the cur- 
 tains. The variety of 
 designs is almost infin- 
 ite, those with fern 
 leaves being preferred. 
 
Q HAPTER XII . 
 
 FURNISHINGS. — THE HALL. — ITS IMPRESSION UPON VISIT- 
 ORS. THE PARLOR. — DINING-ROOM. HOW TO FUR- 
 NISH THEM AT REASONABLE COST. — EBONIZING WOOD. 
 — HOME-MADE MANTELS, RUGS, CARPETS, ETC. 
 
 °>*c 
 
 HE suggestions made in the following pages, are 
 offered as such. No authority, however high, 
 can fix rules which will be followed by those 
 whose originality leads them to decorate and fur- 
 nish their homes in gfood taste without regard to 
 fashion. 
 
 The Hall. — A very recent and trustworthy 
 writer says: " The entrance of a house indicates 
 the character of the entire building, the lower 
 hall and vestibule often furnishing the key-note 
 to the whole interior. This key-note addressed 
 to the eye should be pitched low ; there should be no striking 
 brilliancy of color, although warm tones are admissible, but 
 a leading up, as it were, to the richer hues and more elabo- 
 rate adornments of the sheltered apartments." 
 
 Ordinary halls are too small for much display, if here 
 were the place for display. Where the dimensions of the hall 
 
 [285] 
 
286 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 will permit, a hall table, made of such material as will sug- 
 gest strength and durability, flanked on each side with 
 chairs of like design, are not out of place. A small bracket, 
 
 Fig. 63. 
 
 supporting an antique jar or other bric-a-brac, is often very 
 appropriate, as is also a neat holder for whisp or brush, these 
 being valuable adjuncts to any hall. 
 
HOW TO FURNISH BOOMS. 
 
 287 
 
 Where the hall is small, a mirror framed in such a way 
 as to admit of pegs for hats and coats is, perhaps, as appro- 
 
 Fig. 64. 
 
 priate as can be wished. Fig. 63 gives a very pretty design. 
 Such a design may be cut out with a scroll-saw or by your 
 
288 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 own carpenter, and ebonized according to the recipe given 
 in this work, and furnished with a mirror, at little cost. 
 Ebonized wood for such furniture is quite popular. 
 
 A more commodious, and of course, more costly, style of 
 hat, coat, and umbrella rack, with mirror and drawers, is 
 shown in Fig. 64. 
 
 The floor can be treated as the means and taste of the 
 owner dictate. Tiles have been suggested already, but less 
 costly material may be selected, as oil carpet, or Lineoleum, — 
 a thick, durable covering resembling oil carpet, but made of 
 ground cork. A plain or stained floor with a neat rug often 
 makes a pretty appearance. 
 
 The Reception-Room, Parlor, and Library. 
 
 The question of first importance in the furnishing of the 
 drawing-room, parlor, or in fact any room, is whether the 
 floor, ceilings, and walls are to be the background for deco- 
 rative objects, or are themselves to furnish the decorative 
 features. If the walls and ceilings are covered with costly 
 and showy paper, and the floor carpeted with brilliant 
 colors, no furniture, however costly, will show ofF to good 
 effect, as opinions on the subjects are very decided. Then 
 let this question first be settled before a single step is taken 
 toward furnishing the room. Under chapters I to VII, 
 will be found practical suggestions upon the treatment of 
 walls, ceilings, etc. 
 
 Regarding carpets, much might be said and with little 
 effect, as opinions on this subject are very decided. One 
 who gets glimpses of many parlors, has observed that in the 
 average home the carpet is too costly for the other fur- 
 nishings of the room. 
 
HOW TO FURNISH BOOMS. 
 
 !>89 
 
 Imitating the Oriental style, many persons of taste have 
 contented themselves with a large rug on a stained floor. 
 Home-made rugs, among people who are not slaves to fash- 
 ion, are not considered out of place in the parlor. Such 
 
 Fig. 65. 
 
 people can render an apartment very attractive and at the 
 same time comfortable, with small outlay. 
 
 The mantel is a feature that never escapes the eye of a 
 visitor; its contents therefore should receive attention. It 
 
 19 
 
290 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 is the place for the display of pretty things, as vases, curi- 
 osities, etc. 
 
 Many people cannot afford the expensive mantels of 
 marble, carved wood, and marbleized slate, but they can 
 
 Fig. 66. 
 
 afford a plain mantel of wood which they may render very 
 attractive by the following method : — 
 
 " Take panels, or squares of glass, and if one is not artist 
 
STYLE OF LOUNGE. 
 
 291 
 
 enough to venture on original designs, select pleasing pict- 
 ures of birds, flowers, grains, children, animals, or landscapes, 
 
 op' 
 
 from the great chromo-field, cut them out nicely, and gum 
 them upon the glass, face downward, covering the whole 
 
292 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 with a coat of paint in shades of blue* lavender, or sea-green. 
 The right side of the glass then bears a fair resemblance to 
 a china painting. These panels are easily and inexpensively 
 made, and when fastened on the wood-work, with narrow 
 black strips or moldings, have almost as good effect as the 
 costlier tile mantels." 
 
 The mantel can be ebonrzed in the same way as the hat 
 rack, and it may be still more improved by placing a long, 
 narrow mirror lengthwise on the shelf. 
 
 Fig. 6a 
 
 Small hanging cabinets, with doors and a shelf above, 
 may take the place of costlier furniture, and indeed, they 
 may serve to set off the larger pieces to good effect. An or- 
 dinary carpenter can make them, and if the panels of the 
 doors are decoratedwith nothing better than transfer pictures 
 well varnished, they will be very pretty. 
 
 Chairs should never sacrifice comfort for appearance; 
 large, easy reading or library chairs like those illustrated in 
 Figs. 65 and 66 are suggestive of comfort. A lounge of the 
 style given in Fig. 67 is more useful and graceful than the 
 stereotyped semi-circular settee, while the hassock or stool 
 
THE DINING-ROOM. 993 
 
 with castors, Fig. 68, is far more serviceable than the awk- 
 ward ottoman. 
 
 The Dining-Room. 
 
 This room, of all others, should be the most cheerful; 
 good digestion depends upon thorough, careful mastication 
 of the food, which requires time, and no one is apt to give 
 himself ample time in a cheerless dining-room. 
 
 At the dining-room table the members of the family are 
 united in motive, and should be in heart. Then let this be a 
 cheerful room. Let the chairs be comfortable, arrange a few 
 choice pictures on the wall, and if a neat sideboard is beyond 
 question, put up wall shelves, and leave them the natural 
 color of the wood finished in oil. and above all else avoid too 
 many mottoes. If it can be so arranged, let the floor be 
 covered, at least around the table, with a good oil-carpet, 
 and stain the floor with some convenient stain, finishing 
 with two coats of shellac, which is easily cleaned. 
 
 If the dining-room is also used as a living-room, of 
 course it may be carpeted all over as usual. 
 
GHA-p'TRR XIII. 
 
 BED-ROOMS. — HOW TO MAKE THEM CHEERFUL, COMFORT- 
 ABLE, AND HEALTHFUL. — BED-ROOM FURNITURE. 
 
 CHEAP BUT USEFUL FURNITURE. — HOW TO MAKE A 
 BED-ROOM TABLE. — WASH-STAND WITH DRAPERY. 
 
 oXKc 
 
 N the furnishing of bed-rooms, the individuality 
 of the housewife asserts itself very strongly. 
 
 When it is remembered that from one-fourth 
 to one-third of our time is spent in our bed- 
 rooms, no argument is necessary to prove that it 
 should be rendered the most pleasant. 
 
 Of course the bed itself is the principal feature. 
 Too much is apt to be expended upon the bed- 
 stead. More attention should be paid to the 
 springs and mattresses. It is an easy matter 
 from among the multitude of patterns to secure 
 easy and durable springs at reasonable cost. The best 
 mattress is made of hair; for health, the common husk 
 mattress, with wool or cotton top, equals the hair, and is, 
 moreover, very cheap. Avoid high beds; who does not 
 remember the beds of our grandfathers, requiring the aid of 
 
 a treacherous chair to get into them ? 
 [294] 
 
THE DRESSING BUREAU. 
 
 295 
 
 For decorative effect, the bed is the least important 
 feature of the room. Usually the wall-paper, carpet, 
 brackets, pictures, lounge, table, and bureau or dressing-case, 
 
 en 
 
 if all or a part of these can be afforded, add more to the 
 cosiness of the room, than the bed. It is a good plan to 
 purchase a plain bedstead and devote more to the other fur- 
 niture. 
 
296 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 The Dressing Bureau. 
 
 Where it can be afforded, a bureau is very desirable ; it 
 should be of size corresponding with the size of the room. 
 
 Unless there is a good closet or a table with drawers, the bu- 
 reau is almost a necessity. Marble tops are to be con- 
 demned where articles of glass or fine china come in contact 
 with them. 
 
Fig, 7 i. 
 
BEDSTEAD AND DRAPERY. 297 
 
 A recent writer on this matter says of the bed-room 
 table: " Quite an inexpensive one may be made from a dry- 
 goods box three feet high, four wide, and two and a half 
 feet deep, with four blocks of wood, one inch thick and four 
 inches square, nailed beneath each corner, to which casters 
 are fastened. The box is placed with open side out, and 
 fitted with a convenient shelf or two. The whole interior 
 should be neatly papered. 
 
 " On the top at the back, one or two small boxes may 
 be fastened, and the entire top covered with oil-cloth or 
 other suitable material, and the front may be hung with 
 drapery concealing the inside shelves. Another plan would 
 be to sand-paper the outside and finish in shellac varnish. 
 Much ingenuity can be displayed and money saved, by 
 watching the fashion and other journals and carrying out 
 their sugrsestions." 
 
 *&»* 
 
 Bedstead and Drapery. 
 
 Our illustration presents a very neat bedstead and 
 drapery. The hangings are of muslin and net, worked in 
 satin and slanting stitch, over-cast at the edges. The green 
 quilted silk counterpane is laid inside a fine linen case, 
 embroidered around the edges and buttoned over the quilt 
 as shown. The pillow is trimmed with lace insertion and a 
 double muslin frill, and embroidered at the corners, where 
 it is also ornamented with a bow of colored ribbon. At the 
 foot of the bed is a second cover of chintz or dimity, also 
 trimmed with lace or frills. 
 
 Brackets made with the scroll-saw can be used to 
 advantage to hold books, curiosities, china, etc. The toilet- 
 table or wash-stand affords an excellent chance for the dis- 
 
298 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 play of taste, the indispensable splasher and towel-rack 
 may be articles of home manufacture, while a neat-figured 
 damask towel will answer quite well for a marble top. 
 
 In bed-rooms, where space must be economized, the 
 
 new style wardrobe and bedstead combined, may be used to 
 excellent advantage. Our illustration gives all necessary 
 details. It will be seen that the wardrobe is located behind 
 the head of the bedstead. At each end is a door opening 
 into the wardrobe, and hooks are attached to a piece which 
 slides in and out. 
 
Fig. 73. 
 
DRAPERY AND TOILET-STAND. 299 
 
 Two drawers for linen are placed in the bottom of the 
 wardrobe, and the whole space is nearly, if not quite, as 
 capacious as a bureau or separate wardrobe. The doors 
 close tightly so as to prevent dust from entering. 
 
 Large pictures are out of place in a bed-room. A few 
 engravings, — nothing of the " death-bed-of- Washington 
 style," — with photographs of a few friends, are very appro- 
 priate. 
 
 The color of carpet and wall-paper should not be too 
 dark, and the drapings of the windows should be such as to 
 admit the sunlight freely. 
 
 Cane or leather seated chairs are sold at such rates that 
 most people can afford them. The easy rocker seems 
 almost indispensable, especially in event of sickness in the 
 household. 
 
 Our ideal bed-room is among the best, if not the best, 
 room in the house, except, perhaps, the family sitting- 
 room. 
 
 Drapery for Toilet-Stand. 
 
 On the opposite page we give an illustration showing 
 how the commonest and plainest bed-room may be rendered 
 beautiful and attractive by the aid of a little taste and cheap 
 material. The toilet-stand may be a cheap table, with a 
 shelf erected on the top for toilet articles, and a bracket 
 higher up for perfume articles, etc. 
 
 Oil-cloth of any desired color may cover the table, cut in 
 any shape to suit the fancy, the edges being bound with braid 
 to correspond. The shelves and brackets may be covered to 
 correspond with the table, and the whole draped with muslin 
 or other material, edged with lace, or trimmed to suit the 
 
300 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 taste, or in harmony with the other adornments of the 
 
 room. 
 
 Shelves may be made under the table, and a curtain of 
 coarser material suspended from its edges conceals them. 
 These shelves may be used for shoes, slippers, etc. 
 
§Ag 
 
 «-qr> 
 
 i i3>m 
 
 » 
 
 4==™ 
 
 MIZ=g» 
 
 THE CARE, 
 
 v 
 
 -saw 
 
 v 
 
 CULTURE, t PROPAGATION 
 
 - - % 
 
 IP 
 
 OF 
 
 * x 
 
 — ■ — ;*^^fc 
 
 [301] 
 
)SJ(sOD might have bade the earth bring forth 
 
 Enough for great and small; 
 The oak-tree and the cherry-tree, 
 
 Without a flower at all. 
 We might have had enough, enough 
 
 For every want of ours, 
 For luxury, medicine, and toil, 
 
 And yet have had no flowers. 
 
 Our outward life requires them not; 
 
 Then wherefore had they birth ? 
 To minister delight to man, 
 
 To beautify the earth; 
 To comfort man, to whisper hope, 
 
 Whene'er his faith is dim, 
 For whoso careth for the flowers 
 
 Will care much more for Him. 
 
 — Mary Howitt. 
 
 [302] 
 
CLxFIAF >/ FBJ?. I. 
 
 THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS. — HOW TO HAVE THRIVING 
 PLANTS AND ABUNDANCE OF FLOWERS. — USEFUL SUG- 
 GESTIONS. — HOW TO CONSTRUCT AND MANAGE HOT- 
 BEDS AND FLOWER-BEDS. 
 
 °*K« 
 
 HERE is no employment which tends to the 
 development of the better nature of men and 
 women more than the culture of flowers. How- 
 ever humble the circumstances, the possession 
 and culture of at least a few choice varieties, 
 will make the home more tidy, and lend an air 
 of refinement not to be attained in any other 
 way. An English writer says: "To have a 
 flower garden is to have many friends con- 
 tinually near. Indeed, who will say that flowers 
 do not lend a companionship to those who faith- 
 fully care for them ? " 
 
 There is perhaps no better index of refinement in a 
 home than the presence of flowers. It is no doubt very 
 difficult in large cities, where the yards are of small dimen- 
 sions, to do much in the way of flower gardens, but even 
 there a few varieties, planted in the back yard, can be made 
 
 [303] 
 
304 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 to furnish many a bouquet for the breakfast, dinner, or tea- 
 table. 
 
 In the smaller cities and towns, and in the country, no 
 excuse can be offered for the neglect of flowers. 
 
 Many plead want of time, but the excuse is not a good 
 one, for but few minutes per day are required, and these 
 few minutes furnish just such relaxation as every one needs 
 to keep away the wrinkles, cares, and perplexities of regular 
 employment; besides, the satisfaction and happiness gained 
 in their care generally repay the possessor for all the atten- 
 tion they require. 
 
 Brief Hints on Sowing and Cultivating. 
 
 In the outset do not make the common mistake of most 
 new beginners, and undertake too many varieties at once, 
 giving all the same treatment, for defeat will attend the 
 effort. 
 
 A good plan is to procure a seed catalogue, like D. M. 
 Ferry & Co.'s, of Detroit, and others, which will tell you 
 what every flower is, its culture, and when to expect 
 flowers. Select from the catalogue a dozen or more good 
 varieties, and content yourself with their culture until 
 you can secure good results, and then increase your stock. 
 
 The following hints will be of value in their care and 
 culture : — 
 
 Selection of Varieties. — Success in flower culture depends 
 quite largely upon a judicious selection of varieties. Every 
 sort is, under certain conditions, attractive and desirable ; but 
 some of them, while exceedingly beautiful under favorable 
 circumstances, will be most unsatisfactory and little better 
 than weeds under others. 
 
SOWING AND CULTIVATING FLOWERS. 305 
 
 The Soil. — Another great object to be considered is the 
 soil into which flower seeds are to be sown. The soil best 
 adapted to flowering plants generally, is a light, friable loam, 
 containing a sufficient amount of sand to render it porous. 
 A great many varieties will live in almost any kind of soil, 
 except it be extremely dry, calcareous, or of a stiff, heavy 
 character; still, to give them a fair chance for development, 
 some little pains should be taken in adding to the soil, as 
 much as possible, what may be wanting in it. Most flowers 
 are better if produced on plants of most vigorous growth, so 
 the greater portion of the garden should be prepared by 
 deep digging, thorough pulverization, and liberal enriching 
 with large quantities of well-rotted manure. On the other 
 hand, some sorts do best on very poor soil, so a portion of 
 the garden should be left without enriching at all. As the 
 process of germination is shorter or longer in the different 
 kinds of seeds, the patience of the cultivator is often sorely 
 tried with seeds of a slowly germinating character; the 
 patience of a devoted florist, however, is never exhausted in 
 these manipulations, and the certainty of his final success 
 repays him fully for the trouble. 
 
 Sowing the Seed. — Nine-tenths of the failures in flower 
 culture come from improper treatment of the seeds and 
 young plants ; and we urge every one who makes an attempt 
 to train and care for flowers, to study our descriptions of 
 each variety found in the succeeding pages, observing the 
 following general rules : — 
 
 Make the surface as fine and smooth as possible. Do 
 not plant any of the seeds when the ground is wet. 
 
 Cover each sort of seed to a depth proportionate to its 
 size; the finest, like portulaca, not more than one-quarter 
 
 20 
 
306 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 inch deep; those the size of a pin head one-half inch, and 
 those as big as a pea one inch. 
 
 Press the soil down firmly over the seed. After making 
 the soil as fine as possible with the rake, make it, for the 
 smaller seeds, still finer, by crushing the lumps up in the 
 hands. 
 
 Procure a bit of lath (it would be better if planed 
 smooth) about two feet long, press the edge down into the 
 soil evenly, so as to make a groove as deep as the seed is to 
 be planted ; scatter the seed along this, allowing four or five 
 of the larger, or fifteen to twenty of the smaller seeds to the 
 space one plant is to occupy when grown. Take care not 
 to spill any of the seeds between the rows. Cover the seed 
 by pinching the earth together over it; then turn your lath 
 flat-ways, and press the soil down firmly and evenly. 
 
 Put a little stick at each end of each row, so as to mark 
 it, then pull up all weeds that appear between the rows the 
 first day they can be seen. Do not pull plants out of the 
 row unless you are sure they are weeds. 
 
 Classification of Flowers. 
 
 All flowers, raised from seed, are usually known as 
 Annuals, Biennials, or Perennials. 
 
 Annuals are those plants which flower or ripen their 
 seeds or fruits the season they are sown, and then perish. 
 This class of plants is again divided by the cultivator into 
 two classes, — the Hardy, and the Half-hardy or tender kinds. 
 
 Hardy Annuals are those which require no artificial 
 heat at any period of their growth, every stage of their 
 development, from germination to ripening of the seed, being- 
 passed in the open ground. 
 
CLASSIFICATION OF FLOWERS. 307 
 
 They are the most easily cultivated of all plants; the 
 number of their varieties is large, and their flowers, when 
 properly grown, are frequently of most attractive beauty 
 and elegance. It is only to be regretted that they are not 
 generally cultivated to that extent to which their merit 
 justly entitles them. The seed may be sown from, the first 
 of April to the middle of June, along the border, in little 
 patches four or six inches square, or in drills, on the spot 
 where they are wanted to blossom ; and in doing so, care 
 should be taken to have the different varieties arranged in 
 such a manner as to produce a pleasing effect when they are 
 in bloom. 
 
 Half -hardy Annuals are those species that flower and 
 ripen their seeds in the open air, but need the assistance of 
 artificial heat in the earlier stages of their growth. They 
 should be sown in a hot-bed, or in pots in a green-house, if 
 one is available, or in a sunny window. Keep them well 
 shaded, which will prevent absorption by the rays of the 
 sun, and the consequent necessity of frequent watering, 
 which bakes the soil, and does much mischief to seeds of 
 slow growth. Toward the middle or end of May, many of 
 the seedlings will be ready for transplanting to borders ; but 
 previous to this exposure, it will be necessary to harden 
 them, preparatory to removal, by gradually admitting air 
 to the frame both day and night. 
 
 Biennials and Perennials.-^-Bienmals are those plants 
 that do not generally flower the first year, and are only in 
 perfection one season. Perennials continue to flower several 
 years in succession. The seed may be sown, as has already 
 been stated, at times when the ground is moist, but not 
 very wet, from the first of April to August. Many of them 
 
308 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 > may be raised in the open ground, like hardy annuals, and 
 transplanted; but tender or half-hardy kinds should be 
 sown as directed for half-hardy annuals. As they do not 
 generally bloom the first year, they may be thinned out or 
 removed from the seed-bed as soon as they are well rooted, 
 and planted either in different parts of the garden, or into 
 nursery beds, in rows a foot apart. The half-hardy or 
 tender biennials must be kept during winter in a green- 
 house or dry cellar, and tender perennials must be protected 
 from frost by a cloth or mat being fastened or tied around 
 them, and covered afterward with leaves or litter. 
 
 Brief directions for sowing are given in our descriptions 
 of varieties; still, to render success more certain, a careful 
 observance of the above directions, which are based on the 
 practical experience of growers, will be found of great 
 benefit to inexperienced florists. 
 
 Hot-bed Culture. — Many varieties of flowers can scarcely 
 be brought to perfection without the assistance of hot-bed or 
 cold-frame, and much care is often necessary in transplant- 
 ing, sheltering, and pricking out the young plants. It is a 
 work that requires much experience, and no doubt many 
 disappointments will naturally occur. Still, a hot-bed is a 
 necessity, without the aid of which many of our choicest and 
 most beautiful flowers cannot be successfully grown. Ex- 
 perience is a rapid teacher, and the lover of flowers is an apt 
 scholar. 
 
 How to Make a Hot-Bed. 
 
 A hot-bed that may be used for the germination of either 
 flower or garden seeds, may be made at little expense in the 
 following manner: If possible, it should be built against 
 
HOW TO MAKE A HOT-BED. 309 
 
 the south side of a shed or board fence, as this arrangement 
 will protect it from winds and will increase the heat. Con- 
 struct a box or frame of boards, two feet high on the side 
 that is to face the south, and one and one-half feet higher on 
 the opposite side; when the frame is in place, fill it with 
 nearly fresh manure from a horse stable, to the depth of one 
 and a half feet. Fit sashes, with panes of glass lapping like 
 shingles, over the top, and let it stand two or] three days, or 
 longer if the weather is cold; now fill in on top of the 
 manure from four to six inches of good, rich, finely pulver- 
 ized garden soil, which, if of stiff clay, should be mixed 
 with sand, and cover the bed as before ; leave it for a few 
 days, taking the precaution to raise a bank of earth around 
 the outside of the frame to further protect it. After a 
 few days, stir the soil and sow the seeds in drills marked 
 with flat sticks. Label the sticks with each variety. Give 
 the bed fresh air each day, and sprinkle ,with warm water 
 as often as may be required. 
 
 Use great care in attending to the bed. When the day 
 is warm the sash should be lifted, and replaced at night, and 
 unless it is cold enough to chill the plants, fresh air should 
 be admitted, at all times. 
 
 It sometimes happens that the bed "heats," and it is 
 necessary then to watch it closely. Examine it by plunging 
 the hand down several inches; if it is hot, remove the sash, 
 use water, not cold, and make deep holes in the bed with 
 sticks for the escape of heat, and fill them up when the heat 
 is reduced. If the nights are very cold, cover the frame with 
 mats or blankets. If such a frame is made large enough, 
 garden vegetables can be had several weeks earlier than 
 when grown in the ordinary manner. 
 
310 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Flowers may also be raised by planting the seeds in the 
 pots intended for them, and sinking them in the hot-bed. 
 
 The Flower Garden. 
 
 Where it is possible, flower gardens should be so located 
 as to be shaded from the afternoon sun. Elaborate beds 
 are to be avoided unless one has abundant time to devote to 
 their care. An endless variety of simple designs for beds 
 can be arranged, and the simpler the better for the effect, 
 unless much elaboration can be afforded. 
 
 Spade the beds very deep and mix manure, sand, and 
 rotted leaves with the soil, raising them very little above the 
 surface. 4 
 
 For borders, use brick set edgewise, large, smooth pebbles, 
 or narrow planking. Strips of turf, if the grass is kept well 
 clipped, also make a pretty border. 
 
 Well-sodded mounds, topped with low flowers, look quite 
 pretty, but in dry weather they are very liable to dry out, 
 and need abundance of water. 
 
Ghaptre I J. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF VARIETIES. — A LIST OF BULBS, WITH METH- 
 ODS OF TREATMENT. — CLIMBERS. — ANNUALS. — VARIE- 
 TIES SUITABLE FOR ALL PURPOSES. 
 
 -ooXKc 
 
 HE following descriptions will be of great value 
 
 in the selection of flowers. The list includes all 
 
 kinds, — Climbers, Bulbs, Annuals, and Hardy 
 
 Shrubs. 
 
 Bulbs. 
 
 Tuberose. — Of all the summer flowering, bulb- 
 ous plants, we think the tuberose the most desira- 
 ble. The flowers are waxy white, double, and 
 so fragrant as to perfume the whole atmosphere 
 for some distance around. They are useful for 
 making button-hole bouquets, in large bouquets, or 
 as single specimens. Each bulb flowers only once, but the 
 smaller bulbs can be set out for future flowering when their 
 growth is completed. A good way to grow tuberoses is to 
 rill five-inch pots half full of cow manure, and the remainder 
 with good, rich earth, mixed with sand. Plant the bulbs in 
 this in April, water moderately, and hasten growth by 
 putting in a warm, light place. When the weather has be- 
 
 [3ll| 
 
312 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 come warm, plunge the pots in the earth, out of doors. 
 They will usually flower before cold weather in autumn; if 
 they do not, the pots can be brought in, and they will 
 bloom in the house. 
 
 Cyclamen. — Well-known and universally admired 
 bulbous-rooted plants, producing exceedingly handsome red 
 and white flowers. The seed should be sown in spring, and 
 by autumn will produce a bulb, which if potted and placed 
 in a conservatory or green-house, will blossom the following 
 spring. Propagated only from seed. 
 
 Cyclamen, persicum, mixed, green-house variety of 
 great beauty, and many colors. 
 
 Madeira-Vine. — Tuberous-rooted climber, with glossy 
 green leaves and delightfully fragrant white blossoms, some- 
 times called, " Mignonette vine." It is of rapid growth, and 
 from a few tubers, vines will be produced sufficient to cover 
 one side of a cottage. The tubers are tender, and must be 
 protected from frost during the winter. 
 
 Lily. — The lily has been, with eminent propriety, styled 
 the " Queen of Flowers," and truly no flower conveys so 
 adequate an idea of queenly beauty, majestic grandeur, and 
 faultless purity, as the Lily. Their culture is simple, and 
 with a little care, failure is impossible. Select a deep, rich 
 soil, enrich it well with thoroughly decomposed manure, and 
 set the bulbs from three to six inches deep, according to size. 
 In the autumn the bed should be protected by a liberal 
 covering of leaves or litter, and care should be taken that 
 the bulbs have proper drainage, no water being allowed to 
 stand around the roots. The bulbs can be transplanted 
 either in spring or autumn, but should be kept out of the 
 ground the shortest possible time. Once firmly established, 
 
DESCRIPTION OF BULBS. 313 
 
 they should not be disturbed oftener than once in five years. 
 Many of the varieties force well in the green-house, but are 
 more suitable for parlor culture. 
 
 Bleeding Heart. — This is a tuberous-rooted plant, 
 blooming in the spring, and favorably known almost every- 
 where. It requires only the ordinary culture of border 
 plants. Roots planted in autumn will flower freely in the 
 spring. The roots should be divided every third year. 
 The flowers are a delicate pink color, very graceful, pro- 
 duced continuously from May to July. 
 
 Dahlia. — The dahlia has always been a favorite for 
 autumn flowering. The flowers are so symmetrical and 
 perfect, and the range of brilliant colors so wide and varied, 
 that they will always be popular where display is wanted. 
 The roots are tender, and easily injured by frost. They 
 should be set out] three feet apart, after all danger of frost 
 is over, and placed in a cool cellar, and not be allowed to 
 freeze during winter. The plants should be supported by 
 tying to stakes. 
 
 Gladiolus. — Magnificent plants, with sword-like leaves 
 and long spikes of flowers of every conceivable color and 
 shade. The varieties are now numbered almost by thou- 
 sands, each year bringing forth new and choice selections 
 which have been produced from seed, this being the only 
 method of obtaining new varieties. The bulb, which is 
 produced from seed, requires three years' growth before 
 being of sufficient size to flower well. They should be taken 
 up on approach of winter, and kept from freezing till warm 
 weather in spring, and then planted out in groups and 
 borders. 
 
 Calla. — An old and very desirable plant, either as an 
 
314 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 aquatic, or for the ornamentation of the drawing-room and 
 conservatory. Thrives in any light, rich soil when plenti- 
 fully watered. The seeds, which should be sown in green- 
 house in early spring, produce small bulbs in the fall, which 
 should be repotted in rich soil. The production of large 
 plants from .seed takes some time, but the beautiful creamy- 
 white flowers are an ample reward for the care and patience 
 bestowed. Half-hardy perennial. 
 
 Climbers. 
 
 Clematis. — Well known and universally admired climb- 
 ers, some of the varieties being remarkable for the beauty 
 and fragrance of their blossoms. Fine for covering arbors, 
 verandas, etc., as they cling readily to almost any object. 
 Most of the kinds are hardy, herbaceous perennials, but 
 some little protection in Northern latitudes, through winter, 
 is advised. Will do well in any good garden soil. 
 
 Cypress-Vine. — A most beautiful climber, with delicate, 
 dark-green, feather foliage, and an abundance of bright, 
 star-shaped, rose, scarlet, and white blossoms, which in the 
 bright sunshine present a mass of beauty. Planted by the 
 side of veranda, tree, or stakes, and trained properly, there 
 is nothing prettier. The seeds will germinate more freely if 
 warm water be poured on the ground after planting. Ten- 
 der annual ; fifteen feet high. 
 
 Gourds. — A tribe of climbers with curiously-shaped fruit, 
 in various colors. Being of rapid growth, they are fine to 
 cover old fences, trellises, stumps, etc. The foliage is quite 
 ornamental, and the markings of some of the fruit quite ex- 
 traordinary. Do not plant the seed till all danger of frost 
 is over, and select rich, mellow ground. Tender annual 
 climbers ; ten to twenty feet high. 
 
DESCRIPTION OF CLIMBERS. 315 
 
 Ipomea. — Beautiful climbers, and exceedingly attractive 
 mixed with other climbers. The flowers are of a variety of 
 shapes and sizes, and of an endless number of colors, many 
 being wondrously brilliant, and of graceful form. They are 
 alike good for green-house, for pots and baskets, and for 
 trellises, stumps, arbors, etc. They require heat in starting, 
 and some of the varieties will not succeed out of the green- 
 house. Tender annuals ; five to ten feet high. 
 
 Maurandya. — Graceful climber for green-house, parlor, 
 baskets, or out-door purposes. Set out in the border with a 
 little frame to which to attach their tendrils, they will be 
 loaded all the season with rich purple, white, and rose, fox- 
 glove-shaped blossoms. The seed should be started in hot- 
 bed or green-house, as without artificial heat, they will 
 scarcely flower the first season. They must be removed to 
 a warm place on the approach of cold weather in autumn. 
 Tender perennial climber ; six feet high. 
 
 Smilax. — No climbing plant in cultivation surpasses this- 
 for the graceful beauty of its foliage. In cut flowers, and foi' 
 wreaths, etc., it is indispensable to florists. Its hard texture 
 enables it to be kept several days after being cut, without 
 wilting. Nothing is finer for clothing statuettes, vases, etc. 
 Soak the seed in warm water twelve hours, and plant in 
 pots, in hot-bed or green-house, in February, and keep in a 
 warm, moist place. One plant in a two-inch pot is enough. 
 After they have completed their growth and the foliage 
 begins to turn yellow, turn the pots on their sides and with- 
 hold water till August, when the little bulb which has formed 
 can be repotted in good, rich earth, and watered freely, and 
 it will grow all winter. Tender perennial climber; ten 
 feet high. 
 
316 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Annuals and Perennials. 
 
 Aster. — No family of plants bears such distinct marks of 
 progress as the aster, and none are more eagerly sought. 
 An almost endless variety, always reliable, it is not strange 
 that they should become a necessity. The kinds found in 
 the flower garden are usually French or German, and when 
 circumstances for their growth are favorable, present a con- 
 stant varying succession of blossoms till frost comes. The 
 taller varieties should be supported by stakes or trellises. 
 The seed should be sown early in spring, and the young 
 plants transplanted from one to two feet apart, according to 
 the height and size. 
 
 Begonia. — Ornamental foliage, green-house and stove 
 plants, with many-colored, succulent leaves, oblique at their 
 base. Very useful for ferneries, green-houses, and parlor 
 decoration. Some of the varieties, in addition to their beau- 
 tiful foliage, produce magnificent blossoms. They have 
 been so much improved, and so many new flowering sorts 
 introduced, that we almost fail to recognize the species. 
 Some are propagated from seed only, others from cuttings. 
 All require a rich soil. 
 
 Camellia. — All species of camellias are universally ad- 
 mired on account of their beautiful, rose-like flowers and 
 elegant dark -green, shining, laural-like leaves. They are 
 hardy green-house shrubs of easy culture, requiring only to 
 be protected from frost. The best soil for them is an equal 
 quantity of good sandy loam and peat. They are propa- 
 gated by inarching, cuttings, grafting, and from seed, the 
 latter being the only method of obtaining new varieties. 
 When the plants are not growing, they should receive but 
 
ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS. 317 
 
 little water, and when growing freely, can scarcely receive 
 too much. A regular succession of flowers may be obtained 
 from autumn till July, if attention be given to removing the 
 potted and growing plants from a warm to a cooler atmos- 
 phere. When the growth is completed, and the flower-buds 
 formed, a cool, sheltered situation is best, for they will be 
 seriously injured if exposed to the rays of the sun. 
 
 Calceolaria. — A favorite and universally-admired genus, 
 remarkable for its large, beautifully spotted blossoms, 
 which are very showy, and from which an almost countless 
 number of hybrids have been raised. They are perennial, 
 are grown in pots in the conservatory, green-house, and 
 garden ; but few flowers are held in greater esteem. They 
 prefer a turfy loam, a mixture of peat and sand, or a rich, 
 open garden mold, and are propagated from seed or cuttings. 
 Some of them are herbaceous perennials, others shrubby 
 evergreens. 
 
 Carnation. — No flower can surpass in delicacy of 
 marking, form, or delicious fragrance, the richly-hued car- 
 nation. It has always been one of the most esteemed of 
 the florist's collection, and there is no flower more desirable 
 for the garden. The seed will not produce all double 
 flowers, though a good percentage will be double, and of all 
 shades and colors, many being very fragrant. Sow under 
 glass in green-house or hot-bed, and when of sufficient size, 
 transplant two feet apart each way. New and choice vari- 
 eties are obtained from seed. Half-hardy perennial; one 
 and a half feet high. 
 
 Candytuft. — Universally known and cultivated, and 
 considered indispensable for cutting. All the varieties look 
 best in beds or masses. Seed sown in the autumn produces 
 
318 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 flowers early in spring; when sown in April, flower from 
 July to September, and some of the sorts till frost comes. 
 All the varieties are hardy, and easy to cultivate. Single 
 plants transplanted look well, and bloom profusely. Hardy 
 annual ; one foot high. 
 
 Chrysanthemum. — The following are the old garden 
 varieties, producing flowers white, yellow, and variegated, 
 single and double. They flower in autumn, and are desir- 
 able where there are large collections, as they are brilliant 
 and striking. The single sorts are quite as handsome as the 
 double. Hardy annual ; one and a half to two feet high. 
 
 Chrysanthemum, coronarium, double white. 
 
 Chrysanthemum, coronarium, double yellow. 
 
 Chrysanthemum, Burridganum, crimson, white center; 
 single. 
 
 Chrysanthemum, coronarium, mixed. 
 
 Dahlia. — This exceedingly beautiful genus comprises an 
 almost endless number of varieties, all more or less showy 
 in the flower garden in autumn when most other flowers 
 have faded. They are all of easy cultivation, growing 
 freely in almost any soil, from seed sown in spring. The 
 seed should be sown in shallow pans, in March, and the 
 seedlings transplanted to small pots. As soon as danger of 
 frost is over, plant out, one foot apart. These plants will 
 make tubers, which should be taken up in the fall and 
 kept through the winter in a cool, dry place, away from 
 frost, and planted out in the spring, when they will blossom 
 the following autumn. New varieties are constantly being 
 produced from seed, some of them of exquisite beauty. 
 
 Fuchsia. — Well-known, half-hardy, perennial, deciduous 
 shrubs worthy a place in every garden. The varieties are 
 
ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS. 3 1 9 
 
 now numbered by hundreds, and some are exceedingly 
 beautiful. They are easily grown from seed, and as cut- 
 tings ; and from seed many improved varieties are obtained. 
 Sow in March, in shallow pots ; prick out in crocks four inches 
 in diameter, when of convenient size, where they can con- 
 tinue to grow till ihey bloom. As soon as they have 
 flowered, select such as have good points, and change into 
 larger pots. When frost appears, protect the plants. 
 
 Heliotrope. — Highly valued for the fragrance of their 
 flowers, and duration of bloom, and are to be met with in 
 most gardens. They succeed in any rich, light soil, and 
 cuttings of the shrubby kinds, taken off while young, strike 
 readily. Half-hardy perennial ; one foot high. 
 
 Mignonette.— A well-known hardy annual, producing 
 dense, semi-globular heads of exceedingly fragrant flowers, 
 borne on spikes from three to six inches long. Is in bloom 
 nearly the whole season, and the perfume is so fragrant that 
 the whole atmosphere around is perfumed. No garden 
 should be without it. If sown at intervals during the 
 spring and early summer, it will be in bloom till killed by 
 the frost. Seeds sown in autumn will bloom early in 
 spring. Hardy annual ; perennial if protected ; one foot. 
 
 Oleander. — This well-known shrub, originally a native 
 of India, is of easy culture, and flowers freely the greater 
 part of the year. In warm, moist climates, it requires no 
 protection, and attains the proportions of a good-sized tree. 
 The flowers have a salver-shaped corolla, with a crown of 
 torn appendages in the center, and are of a beautiful shade 
 of pinkish-red. They can be produced successfully in the 
 house if the atmosphere is kept moist and warm. Sow 
 seeds in gentle heat in February or March, in light, rich 
 
320 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 soil, which must be kept moist. When young plants are 
 three or four inches high, repot in rich soil. The tempera- 
 ture in which plants are grown should not fall below 35°. 
 The young shoots made one season should bloom the next. 
 
 Pansy. — These lovely flowers are favorites with all, not 
 only for the brilliancy and variety of their colors, but for 
 the durability of their bloom. Seed may be sown in open 
 ground in spring or summer, or in hot-bed early in spring. 
 Young plants produce the largest and best flowers. The 
 plants should always occupy a cool, partially shaded situa- 
 tion, and the ground cannot be too rich; coolness and 
 moisture are necessary. Transplant when an inch high. 
 Seed sown in July will blossom late in autumn ; if sown in 
 October, will bloom the following spring. Hardy biennial; 
 four inches high. 
 
 Geranium. — Probably the geranium is better known 
 and more universally admired than any other plant 
 grown. The constant succession and durability of bloom 
 till frost comes, the brilliancy of the scarlet and other 
 colors, and the exquisite markings of the leaves of some of 
 the varieties, render them very desirable for pot culture and 
 bedding. No garden seems complete without a bed of them, 
 and in every collection of conservatory or parlor plants we 
 are sure to find the geranium. Propagation by seed is the 
 only sure way to obtain superior varieties. Sow in March, 
 in gentle heat, in well-drained pots. Water moderately, and 
 as soon as the third leaf appears, pot singly in two-inch 
 crocks, exchanging for larger ones as the plants require. 
 As soon as the weather will permit, plunge the pots in open 
 border, and on the approach of frost remove them to a shed. 
 They will blossom the succeeding spring. Propagation for 
 common varieties can be made from cuttings. 
 
ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS. :ii >j 
 
 Ferns. — Flowerlass plants, too well known to need de- 
 scription. Many of the varieties are exquisitely beautiful. 
 There are so many sorts, varying so widely in habit, that 
 to give explicit directions for the culture of each would re- 
 quire a volume of itself. As a general rule they should be 
 kept in a warm, humid atmosphere, and watered abun- 
 dantly. The soil best adapted to their growth is a turfy, 
 fibrous peat, mixed with sand and leaf mold, and underlaid 
 with pieces of broken crock. In places too shady for other 
 plants to thrive, they grow in great beauty. Coming as 
 they do from every clime, we find them a very interesting- 
 study. They are alike good for baskets, vases, rock-work, 
 ornamental plants for parlor or conservatory, and the 
 pressed leaves of some of the varieties are marvels of grace- 
 ful beauty. Many of the most beautiful sorts are propa- 
 gated from seed only. Their exceeding grace and beauty 
 will well repay all care bestowed upon them. 
 
 Phlox Drummondii. — Remarkable for the brillianey 
 and abundance of their large, terminal flowers, completely 
 hiding the foliage. The blossoms are of many colors, from 
 pure white to deepest purple, eyed and striped. For masses, 
 of separate colors and for cutting for bouquets, they are un- 
 surpassed. The seed can be planted in open ground in au- 
 tumn or spring, or plants may be started in hot-bed and 
 transplanted. Give good, rich ground, and set plants six 
 inches apart each way. Hardy annual; one foot high. 
 
 Snapdragon. — The snapdragon is an old favorite border 
 plant, with dark and glossy leaves, and large, curiously- 
 shaped flowers with finely marked throats. They have been 
 much improved by careful selection, and now are really 
 magnificent flowers. They will blossom the first season 
 
 21 
 
322 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 from seed sown in spring, but the blossom will be much 
 stronger the second season. Succeeds best in dry, loamy 
 soil. Tender perennial ; two feet high. 
 
 Violet. — The violet should not be wanting in any garden, 
 on account of its fragrance and early appearance. A single 
 flower will perfume a whole room. It is well adapted 
 for border or rock-work, and commences putting forth its 
 beautiful double and single blossoms in April and continues 
 through May. Succeeds best in a shady, sheltered place, 
 and can be easily increased by dividing the root. The 
 violet is an emblem of faithfulness. Hardy perennial; four 
 iftches high. 
 
 Zinnia. — A very showy plant, with large, double flow- 
 ers, which, when fully expanded, form hemispherical heads, 
 become densely imbricated, and might easily be mistaken 
 for dwarf dahlias. The colors run through all the shades of 
 carmine, lilac, scarlet, purple, crimson, yellow, to pure white. 
 If any single blossoms appear, they should be at once pulled 
 up. Sow the seed early in spring, in open ground, and 
 transplant to one and a half feet apart, in good, rich soil. 
 Half-hardy annual ; one and a half feet high. 
 
 Chinese Primrose. — These are perhaps the most desir- 
 able of all house-blooming plants, and will richly compen- 
 sate for the little care they require. They are in almost 
 constant bloom all winter, and if the plants be transferred 
 to the border, they will bloom nearly all summer. Though 
 perennial, new plants flower more fi'eely, and seed should 
 be sown every year. Give them a long time for growth 
 before flowering, and do not force the young plants, but 
 simply protect them from frost, and damp, cutting winds. 
 Sow the seed in shallow boxes, filled with good, rich soil, 
 
ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS. 323 
 
 dusting a little fine earth over them : if covered too deeply, 
 or if the seed be wet and allowed to dry again, they will 
 not germinate. Transplant into pots, and they will be 
 ready for winter blooming in the drawing-room. Tender 
 perennial; six to nine inches high. 
 
 liases. — The rose requires high culture; it should be 
 planted in good, well-drained • soil ; the ground can scarcely 
 be made too rich. The pruning required will vary with the 
 sorts planted, the rank-growing requiring less pruning than 
 the weak ones. The points particularly to be observed are to 
 prune before the buds start in spring, to cut out all unripe 
 or old and feeble shoots, and to cut back the last season's 
 growth to from one-half to two-thirds its length, according 
 to the vigor of the sorts. Winter protection of tender sorts 
 is accomplished by covering after a few severe frosts, with 
 leaves, straw, evergreen boughs, or earth, or by removing 
 the plants to a cool cellar. With a little care of this kind, 
 the choicest tender roses may be safely wintered, and as they 
 are the only really perpetual roses, they are abundantly 
 worth the extra care. The insects most commonly injurious 
 to the rose — as the Aphis, which appear in great numbers 
 upon the young, growing shoots, and the Thrips, which prey 
 upon the under side of the leaf, giving it a sickly, yellowish 
 look, — may easily be destroyed by syringing or dipping the 
 plants in tobacco water. 
 
 Petunia. — Petunias are unsurpassed, if indeed equaled, 
 for massing in beds. Their richness of color, duration of 
 bloom, and easy culture will always render them popular. 
 They will do well sown in open border in spring, or earlier 
 in cold-frame or hot-bed, and transplanted eighteen inches 
 apart. By the latter process, they will come into bloom 
 
324 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 much earlier, though they do perfectly well sown in open 
 ground. Be careful not to cover the small seeds too deep ; 
 they like a sandy loam. Tender perennial ; one and a half 
 feet high. 
 
 Water-Lily. — Hardy, aquatic plant, bearing exceed- 
 ingly beautiful, fragrant white blossoms, which appear as 
 if floating on the water. They are very much admired, 
 and artf constantly becoming more and more popular. Are 
 
 Fig. 74- 
 
 increased by sowing the seed, or by dividing the roots or 
 tubers. They grow readily in ponds or streams of shallow 
 water having muddy bottoms, and can be grown in aqua- 
 riums, tubs or tanks, in the house, if there be sufficient mud 
 at the bottom, and the seeds or roots be kept continually 
 covered with water. 
 
 Cultivation in Tubs. — For a tub, take a strong barrel, 
 free from tar, oil, or salt, saw it in two, fill this one-third full 
 with fine, black garden soil, or meadow mud if handy ; plant 
 the seeds in this mixture, covering them one inch deep, add 
 
ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS. 325 
 
 water gently so as not to disturb the seed, until the tub is 
 full. This is all the care needed; always keep the tub full 
 of water. Set this on a brick or board platform in any 
 place you desire. The tubs, with their contents, should be 
 placed in a cellar during the winter, kept from frost, and 
 not allowed to entirely dry up. 
 
 For Aquariums. — Put in five inches of fine, black loam, 
 cover the seed one inch deep in this, and sift on enough fine 
 sand to entirely cover the loam. 
 
 Ice-Plant. — A handsome and curious plant for hanging 
 baskets, rock-work, vases, and edgings. The leaves and 
 stems are succulent and fleshy, and appear as though covered 
 with ice crystals, and look like rock candy. The whole 
 plant is peculiarly brilliant in the sunshine. The flower is 
 white, and not conspicuous. Succeeds best in dry, sandy 
 loam, and in a warm situation. Can be grown in pots or 
 open border, the former having preference. Tender annual 
 trailer; six inches high. 
 
 Balsam. — The Balsam or Lady's Slipper, is an old 
 favorite, but has been so much improved by cultivation as 
 to be scarcely recognized. The blossoms are double, though 
 some semi-double and single ones will be pretty certain to 
 appear, and such plants should be removed. The prevail- 
 ing colors are red and white, the former running into all 
 shades of crimson, scarlet, rose, and purple, spotted and 
 striped. The flowers will be improved by planting in a 
 hot-bed, and transplanting when two leaves have formed, 
 one or two feet apart. Pinch off a portion of the shoots, 
 which will increase the size of the flower and vigor of the 
 plant. Needs a rich soil, and good cultivation, well 
 repaying for both with the abundance of its magnificent 
 flowers. 
 
326 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Ageratum. — A valuable plant on account of the length 
 of time it remains in bloom, and for contrasts of color with 
 the more brilliant varieties. It blooms constantly all sum- 
 mer in the garden, and if removed to the green -house, all 
 winter. Desirable for cut flowers for bouquets. Grows 
 one and a half feet high, and the plants should stand two 
 feet apart. Colors light blue and pure white. Start the 
 seeds under glass, and transplant. Hardy annual. 
 
 Abutilon. — Very popular, perennial, green-house shrub, 
 with bell-shaped, drooping flowers, which are borne in pro- 
 fusion nearly the entire year. Well adapted to house cul- 
 ture, and desirable for bedding out in the summer. There 
 are several varieties, the flowers of which vary from pure 
 white and yellow to deep orange and crimson, streaked with 
 yellow. Can be propagated by cuttings, in sand, under 
 glass, during summer. If seeds are sown before April, 
 under glass, the plant will bloom the first season. 
 
(flFiAF^rEm fff t 
 
 WINDOW GARDENING. — HOW TO HAVE FLOWERS ALL WINTER. 
 
 — BEST VARIETIES FOR WINTER USE. HOW TO CARE 
 
 FOR THE FLOWERS. THEIR ARRANGEMENT IN THE 
 
 WINDOW. 
 
 ^x>XKc 
 
 jjN addition to what has been said in the chapters 
 on the culture of flowers, it is thought proper to 
 add a few hints upon the subject of window 
 gardening. 
 
 There are but few plants that will not thrive 
 in-doors under proper conditions of light and tem- 
 perature. A window which admits much light 
 by day should be selected, and as plants must 
 have their periods of sleep, provision should be 
 made for shutting off the bright glare of the lamp 
 at night. A few plants, well cared for, look better 
 than a window full of plants so closely crowded as to cause 
 them to grow spindling and turn yellow. 
 
 Regarding soil, the reader is referred to other chapters in 
 this work ; but it is well to state that the pots for window 
 plants should be filled to the depth of one or more inches 
 with charcoal, to assist in drainage and to keep the soil sweet. 
 
 [327] 
 
328 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Care should be used in watering, as plants are easily 
 " drowned out. " If during a gentle, warm shower the plants 
 can be so placed as to receive it, they will be all the better 
 for it. They should generally be watered once a day with 
 a watering-pot, — never poured on, — the water being about 
 
 F, 'g- 75- 
 
 the temperature of the room. The morning is, perhaps, the 
 best time for watering, and it never should be done while 
 the sun shines upon the plants. 
 
 Plants that have flowered all the summer cannot be ex- 
 pected to continue the process during the winter, as they 
 must have a period of rest before they can mature. Those 
 
WINDOW GARDENING. 
 
 329 
 
 which are wanted for flowering in winter, must be started 
 late in the summer from seeds or cuttings, or if started earlier 
 they must be set away or laid down till autumn. The 
 bulbous plants for winter use should be laid down in the 
 shade in May, and given no water till September, when 
 they may be repotted, and will become active in a few 
 weeks. Cuttings for winter may be potted in midsummer. 
 Monthly roses, geraniums, fuchsias, heliotropes, callas, be- 
 
 Fig. 76. 
 
 gonias; and for climbers, the cypress- vine, nasturtium, and 
 ivy, are the plants that require the least trouble and succeed 
 best. 
 
 For supporting the pots, a window box is the cheapest; 
 it can be lined with zinc, and filled in around the pots with 
 moss, if desirable. A strong wire stand, set on castors, is 
 
330 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 very handy, as it can be moved around, and is moreover 
 ornamental. 
 
 The illustrations given in this department are intended 
 to suggest the methods that may be employed in window 
 gardening, and it is not deemed necessary to enter into a 
 lengthy description of them. On page 329 is illustrated a 
 bay-window. Below is given a good plan where the bay- 
 
 Fig- 77- 
 
 window is wanting, and drops a hint as to how an ivy may 
 be concealed behind a mirror, with its graceful loops hang- 
 ing down on each side, and a small portion j ust peeping into 
 the glass. 
 
 The cut on page 331 shows how the scroll-saw may be 
 employed in window gardening. The lambrequin at the 
 top is made of wood, decorated with the scroll-saw. 
 
WIN DO I V a A H D EN I N< 1. 
 
 331 
 
 Fig. 78. 
 
332 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 We have seen shrubs employed with excellent results, in 
 making a background for the more showy plants; and in 
 one instance a species of maple, eight feet high, in full leaf 
 in midwinter, was perhaps the most admired of the whole 
 collection. 
 
 Of course the arrangement of plants in a window or 
 cabinet must depend in a great measure upon the taste of 
 the possessor; but excellent effects can be produced almost 
 anywhere with small-leafed ivy, madeira-vine, smilax, and 
 other hardy climbers, set off by a few showy geraniums, 
 and similar flowers. 
 
 One of the principal reasons why flowers bought on the 
 streets or at the markets prove so unsatisfactory, is because 
 they are placed in small pots to save room, in the damp pits 
 where they are grown, and when they come to be trans- 
 ferred to the sitting-room, or balcony, the earth soon 
 bakas, and the flower-buds fall off without opening. 
 
 If the common flower-pots in which the plants are grow- 
 ing be placed inside ornamental pots a few sizes larger, and 
 the intermediate space be stuffed with wet moss, the closing 
 up and fading can generally be prevented. A still better 
 plan is to arrange a window box to receive the pots ; this should 
 be from seven to ten inches deep, filled with earth or moss, 
 and lined with zinc. 
 
G,m\F >/ rRR TV. 
 
 PRESERVING NATURAL FLOWERS. — AN ART WORTH KNOW- 
 ING. HOW TO KEEP NATURAL FLOWERS FOR A LONG 
 
 TIME. — PRESERVING BY THE SAND PROCESS. — THE SUL- 
 PHUR PROCESS. — PRESERVING BRIDAL AND FUNERAL 
 FLOWERS. — AN ELEGANT ART. — ARRANGEMENT OF FLOW- 
 ERS. 
 
 »o}*i<x> 
 
 HE art of preserving flowers in their natural 
 state has long been known, but the process 
 Beems to have been forgotten until the increas- 
 ing demand for bouquets brought it to the minds 
 of the people of Germany. There are two ways 
 of preserving flowers. The one used almost ex- 
 clusively in Germany, and, we think, the easier 
 method, is as follows: — 
 
 The Sand Process. 
 
 Procure a very fine quality of sand, wash it 
 until all the particles of clay are dissolved, and dry it well 
 by placing it on a board set slanting to allow the water to 
 run off. Bake it thoroughly; and while it is warm, take 
 an ounce of mutton tallow to twelve pounds of sand ; scrape 
 the tallow and scatter it over the sand, stirring it in as it 
 melts. Do not neglect this; for the tallow prevents the 
 
 [333] 
 
334 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 sand from sticking to the flowers. Take a cigar-box or 
 some other suitable box, and cut several holes through the bot- 
 tom, over which paste paper to keep the sand from escaping. 
 Sift sand into the bottom of the box until it is about half an 
 inch deep, using a fine sieve. Upon this carefully place a 
 layer of flowers, and sift in sand enough to cover them. 
 Jar the box a little with the hand to settle the sand into and 
 around the flowers. Put in more flowers, and cover them 
 with sand as before, continuing the operation until the box 
 is full. Place the cover in tight, and put the box in a place 
 where it will be kept at a steady temperature of about 80°. 
 In about four days, if kept at the proper temperature, the 
 flowers will be dry, and can be removed by puncturing the 
 paper placed over the holes cut through the bottom of the 
 box, and allowing the sand to run out. At first the flowers 
 will be too brittle to be handled, and the box should be left 
 in a damp place for a few hours, when the flowers will be 
 ready for use. 
 
 The Sulphur Process. 
 
 The other process alluded to is the preservation of flowers 
 by the agency of sulphur fumes. Procure a box that can 
 be made air-tight (one in which tea has been packed will 
 do); then inside the box on opposite sides, near the top, 
 fasten small strips of wood, and place rods across upon which 
 to hang the bunches of flowers. For ventilation, bore a hole 
 in one side near the bottom, into which fit a plug closely ; 
 arrange the flowers in loose clusters of from three to ten, 
 according to size, placing a variety of flowers in each cluster. 
 Hang the bunches on the rods so that they will not touch 
 one another, and in the bottom of the box place a metal pan 
 
PRESERVING FLOWERS. :;;;:, 
 
 containing a small shovelful of live coals. Spread out the 
 coals, and sprinkle over them about three ounces of pulver- 
 ized sulphur ; then place the lid on securely, and the process 
 is commenced. Open the hole in the side for a few minutes, 
 until you see the fumes rising, but no flame ; then close the 
 opening, throw a piece of heavy carpet over the box, and 
 leave it for a day. Upon examination, the flowers will be 
 found perfect in form, but bleached almost white. Expose 
 them to the air in a dry place, and they will soon regain 
 their color, but will bo of a lighter shade than before 
 bleaching. 
 
 The box must be kept absolutely air-tight after the 
 fumes begin to rise, and it is better to paste cloth over the 
 edges and corners to make it certain that no air can pass 
 through. Keep the box in a dry room. 
 
 Preserving Bridal and Funeral Flowers. 
 
 Every bride desires to keep the flowers she wore on her 
 wedding day, and all desire to keep the wreath that lay on 
 the breast of some dear departed one. The art of preserving 
 these mementos has been kept secret, only a few professional 
 florists knowing the process. It is simple enough, and we 
 give it. 
 
 The Paraffine Process. 
 
 Let the flowers be fresh and firm, and the color light. 
 Green leaves cannot be treated; hence must be left off. 
 Take the finest quality of paraffine, and melt it by placing 
 it in a cup set in boiling water. Keep the paraffine in a 
 liquid state by means of the warm water, and dip the 
 flowers into it, being careful that the paraffine is not hot 
 enough to cook them. Do the work as quickly as possible, 
 
336 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 so as to make a very thin coating on the flowers. To pre- 
 serve green leaves, coat them with green wax, or add green 
 powder paint to the paraffine. 
 
 In preserving flowers, it should be observed that those 
 with a thick, full corolla, such as tulips, lilies, etc., are not 
 well adapted to this purpose. When the preserving process 
 is eompleted, the flowers should be tastefully arranged, and 
 placed where they will be free from dust. Glass globes or 
 bell glasses are excellent, and if a few bleached ferns form 
 the background, the effect will be pretty. 
 
 In arranging flowers of any kind, be careful not to 
 place together those of tints which do not blend; as scarlets 
 with pinks, blues with purples, etc. An intelligent under- 
 standing of the harmony of colors will enable any one to 
 arrange a very few and very common flowers so as to pro- 
 duce excellent effects. 
 
 Crystalizing Grass. 
 
 Take one pound of alum and dissolve it in one quart of 
 rain-water. Tie up bunches of feathery grasses, wild rye, 
 oats, bearded wheat, etc., loosely, and suspend them over a 
 tub. Heat the alum-water, and pour it over them very 
 slowly until every cluster is thoroughly saturated. Leave 
 the bunches to dry over night, when every point will sparkle 
 with crystals. Should the process fail, add more alum, and 
 the next application will succeed. These grasses make very 
 ornamental winter boquets. 
 
-© <&> «■ 
 
 
 [337] 
 
A bunch of sumach, shining bright, 
 
 And a stag-horn, deck the wall, 
 With a string of birds'-eggs, blue and white, 
 
 Beneath. 
 
 — Alice Cart, in The Settler's Christmas Eve.' 
 
CLxFU^F^TRR ^ 
 
 BRUSH AND PIGMENT. — PAINTING IN OIL AND WATER COLORS. 
 — FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH.— .-PANEL PAINTING. — 
 PAINTING PLAQUES AND VASES. — AN ELEGANT ART. — 
 BEAUTIFYING THE HOME. — A NEW WARE FOR PAINTING. 
 — OIL COLORS ON SILK, SATIN, AND PLUSH. — WATER COL- 
 ORS. — BOWL PAINTING. 
 
 <~o*Ko* 
 
 F late years there has been a very great advance 
 in the use of oil and water colors in interior dec- 
 orations. Many ladies have turned their atten- 
 tion to painting panels, screens, and plaques for 
 adorning their own houses, and some have ac- 
 complished most satisfactory results in painting 
 on china. The following pages give the neces- 
 sary instructions for the amateur who wishes to 
 try her skill in this elegant art. 
 
 The materials necessary are very few, render- 
 ing the work less difficult than it seems, and at 
 the same time less costly. A few camel's-hair brushes, — 
 some fine, others coarse, — a tile, a plate, or a piece of window 
 glass to mix the paints on, a small vessel to hold turpentine, 
 and a few tubes of oil-colors, to be had at any paint store, 
 are the requisite materials. Some knowledge of drawing is 
 necessary, so that the design to be painted may be outlined 
 
 on the material with a pencil. Unless the person is skillful 
 
 [339] 
 
340 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 in this, the outline should be drawn once or twice on paper 
 before it is traced upon the material. 
 
 No amateur should be ambitious to undertake difficult 
 and elaborate designs at the outset. Let the advancement 
 be easy. Take, for the first effort, a simple subject requir- 
 ing only two or three tints. Flowers are best for beginners. 
 Patience and continued practice will teach the pupil how to 
 meet the difficulties in the use of brushes, colors, etc. 
 
 In handling the brush, avoid "dabbling," and accom- 
 plish as much as possible at a single stroke. It is hardly 
 necessary to say that the tints are better if a brush is pro- 
 vided for each color, but by careful cleaning the same brush 
 may be used for several colors. In oil-colors, it is a good 
 plan to squeeze the paint from the tube on blotting paper, 
 so that the surplus oil may be absorbed; otherwise there is 
 a risk of staining. If the paint then becomes too dry, tur- 
 pentine should be used to thin it, at the same time causing 
 it to dry more quickly. 
 
 Panel Painting. 
 
 Panels of doors, or simply oblong wall-panels of well 
 seasoned wood, are now painted in oil-colors. The oblong 
 panels look well hung upon the wall, or set upon an easel, 
 a shelf, a cabinet, or the mantel. 
 
 The materials are the ordinary tube oil-colors," camel's 
 hair or sable brushes of several sizes, a bristle brush for 
 backgrounds, and a hand rest. It should be remembered 
 that panels are not pictures in the true sense, but a part of 
 a picture, of which the room itself is the whole. 
 
 The background, if the wood is not left its natural color, 
 should be soft mottled blue, green, or gray, toned a little 
 with warmer colors, a fleck of white here and there being 
 very admissible. 
 
PANEL PAINTING. 341 
 
 For Subjects, flowers painted in natural colors are most 
 popular. Peach and apple blossoms, on drooping boughs, 
 sprays of dogwood, or anything which suits the fancy, 
 may be chosen. One author, who seems to appreciate the 
 plant, recommends the hop-vine, and it really seems capable 
 of excellent treatment, especially on door panels. Other sub- 
 jects may be taken; as a sketch of a sailing vessel, supported 
 by the branches of a piece of coral, the latter being painted 
 a light pink; swallows skimming over a small lake; or a 
 mischievous robin perched on a bough of ripe cherries. The 
 beginner should attempt only the simplest subjects. 
 
 Painting Plaques. 
 
 The decoration of plaques and vases is a very elegant 
 and popular employment for ladies, and is rapidly growing 
 in favor. Two methods are used, one in which the plaques 
 are painted and the painting is burned in, the other simply 
 requires the painting without the burning. The same sug- 
 gestions also apply to vases. 
 
 Plaques for ordinary oil-colors are made of wood, paper 
 mache, china, and porcelain, costing from fifteen cents for 
 wood, to two or three dollars and even higher for porcelain, 
 paper mache being the favorite. The paints and brushes 
 are the same as are used for panel painting, except where 
 the work is done on china, for "firing," when Lacroix's En- 
 amel, or other mineral colors, must be used. 
 
 The sizes most used are from twelve to sixteen inches in 
 diameter. For a background the whole plaque may be 
 painted in graduated tinte of sage green, blue, or brown; or 
 it may be left the natural color, just as the design requires. 
 
 The Designs. — In tho selection of designs, the field is very 
 wide, and ranges from a single spray of apple blossoms to 
 
342 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 animals, portraits, and landscapes. The picture should cover 
 the plaque, not solidly, but the whole surface should be util- 
 ized and the design well balanced. Sometimes a center-piece 
 is painted, with a tasty border. Very many persons will be 
 at a loss to make their own designs, and to such, the sug- 
 gestions and designs furnished by the Art Amateur, a 
 monthly Art Journal published in New York, will be of 
 great use. Others need but a slight hint from which to form 
 a very good sketch, making the details to suit their fancy. 
 
 A very attractive picture would be a few stalks of ripe 
 wheat, with a mouse perched upon one of the stalks ; a faint 
 attempt at a landscape, with grass and mushrooms in the 
 background, and a pale moon in the distance. Paint the 
 mouse gray ; wheat, yellow ; grass, green ; mushrooms, gray 
 on top and stems, under surface striped with black ; and sky, 
 blue. 
 
 Another good design is a vase of gold fish, with a young^ 
 chicken near, and a few stems of grass rising from behind 
 the vase. Paint the globe a light gray, and shade with a 
 dark gray ; fish, capucine red shaded with the same ; chicken, 
 yellow with shading of darker color of same; plants, green. 
 Sprays of flowers with birds are not only very easily painted, 
 but very popular. 
 
 Imitation Barbatin or Lamoges Ware. 
 
 A new material for oil-colors has recently made its ap- 
 pearance. It is clay modeled into the forms of vases and 
 jars, upon the surface of which flowers are molded in full re- 
 lief. This ware is intended, when painted and varnished* 
 to represent the celebrated "Barbatin" or "Lamoges" ware. 
 The ordinary tube colors are used, and the taste of the 
 decorator will be taxed to its utmost in the selection and 
 blending of colors. The vases should be given some warm 
 
IMITATION BARBATIN WARE. 343 
 
 color in lights and shades, or what would be called mottled, 
 and the flowers should be painted natural colors. For the vase, 
 a shaded deep green, blue, or brown, would be appropriate. 
 The varnish, of course, should be white or nearly so, as 
 otherwise the brilliancy of the colors would be marred. To 
 those who have not means to own the burned wares, this 
 commends itself, and it is destined to be very popular, imi- 
 tating, as it does, the famous and costly French wares. The 
 vases are sold at first-class art and picture stores. 
 
 Silk, Satin, and Plush. 
 
 These three materials are sometimes painted on for ban- 
 ners, panels, and screens. The materials for use are the 
 same as have been spoken of, with the addition of ox gall 
 spread over the designs, on silk or satin, before the painting 
 is begun. 
 
 The highest general color is applied first, in painting 
 these fabrics, and the strokes of the brush should be parallel 
 to the rib of the silk, that is, not across the woof. Put in the 
 deepest shades last. 
 
 There is one difficulty in this work, and that is the 
 spreading of the oil in the paint. To prevent this, squeeze 
 out the tube colors upon blotting paper, and let it absorb the 
 oil. If the oil should then spread, rub the wrong side of the 
 goods with coke magnesia, to absorb it ; and when absorbed, 
 brush off the powder. The material should be stretched upon 
 a drawing-board by means of tacks, and the outline drawn 
 upon the goods with a lead pencil, or with blue or red stamp- 
 ing paper. While engaged upon the design, protect the fab- 
 ric from soiling as much as possible, with a sheet of paper. 
 Plush is the richest of all materials for oil-colors. A stiff 
 brush of bristle is necessary to stamp in the colors. Mirrors 
 with plush frames painted with sprays of flowers instead of 
 embroidery are much admired. Designs on plush are out- 
 lined with a brush and flake white. 
 
344 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Water Colors. — Buy only the very best, from responsi- 
 ble dealers. Sometimes two or three coatings of color must 
 be applied to satin and silk before the color takes on the 
 proper tint. Chinese white is 'almost universally used in 
 toning colors and putting in the lighter tints. Mix the white 
 with the color to be toned, or apply it to the fabric, accord- 
 ing to the object you wish to accomplish. 
 
 Transfer oil pictures are now sold which can be applied 
 to silk and satin by use of a hot iron. 
 
 Fan Painting is another field for the artist. Silk, satin, 
 paper, and vellum are the materials. The fans must be se- 
 cured upon a board while being painted. The walls of 
 rooms are frequently adorned with gaily colored Japanese 
 fans, of various sizes. 
 
 Bowl Painting. — Wooden bowls, such as are used for 
 making bread, are perhaps the latest for painting in oil. The 
 entire bowl is first painted some color, — blue or gray looks well, 
 — and then on the inside is painted a design covering the 
 bot.tom and extending up the sides. The subjects which seem 
 most sought after are marine views, with scenes of sun-rises. 
 
 " At morning, flinging wide, 
 Its curtain-clouds of purple and vermilion, 
 Dispensing life and light on every side." 
 
 The bowls, when completed, are hung rather high, with 
 a. downward incline, in the corners of the room, and look 
 well nowhere else. In the painting, minute details are to be 
 avoided, as the view will be seen at a distance only. These 
 ornaments take the place of corner brackets. 
 
 Decorating Flower Pots. — Plain, smooth, red-clay flower 
 pots are capable of some decoration worth mentioning ; and 
 as they occupy such prominent places in the house, it is not 
 strange that they should receive some attention from 'the 
 decorator. Oil or water colors will serve the purpose. Lay 
 broad bands of dull blue around the top and bottom, cover- 
 ing the intervening space with black. Now if you do not 
 have transfer pictures, paste scrap chromos on the black band- 
 Do not observe too much order in pasting them on, but ar- 
 range them in a most disorderly manner. The effect is ex- 
 cellent, and the experiment worth trying. 
 
Ghaptrr 11. 
 
 CRYSTAL AMBROTYPES, OR PHOTO-ENAMEL. — HOW TO PAINT 
 PHOTOGRAPHS. — EXPLICIT DIRECTIONS FOR THE PAINT- 
 ING. — MATERIALS AND THEIR USE. — DECALCOMANIA, 
 OR THE ART OF TRANSFERRING PICTURES. — TRANS- 
 FERRING PICTURES TO WOOD, STONE, GLASS, SILK, 
 SATIN, ETC. — EASY AND INEXPENSIVE WAYS OF DEC- 
 ORATING. 
 
 °oi*io« 
 
 OUBTLESS many have admired the hand- 
 somely colored photographs exhibited through- 
 out the country by agents who claim to know 
 the secret of the art, and the method of teaching 
 it. The fact is, it is no secret, the process being 
 an old one, and very simple. 
 
 Materials Necessary for the Work. 
 
 The best of tube paints in flake white, orange- 
 yellow, Indian red, vermillion, chrome-green, 
 rose-madder, terre-verte, ivory black, Prussian 
 blue, and vandyke brown, a convex glass in size to suit, 
 an ounce of castor-oil and balsam of fir in equal parts, an 
 ounce vial of castor-oil, adhesive paper, good mucilage, and 
 camel's hair brushes in three sizes. None of these are diffi- 
 cult to procure, except the Convex glass. That can be ob- 
 tained from any first-class picture dealer. [345] 
 
346 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 The Process. 
 
 Let your photograph lie in rain-water for ten or twelve 
 hours; it can then be taken from the card with ease. Use 
 a blotter to dry it. Clean the glass thoroughly. Cover 
 the face of the photograph with mucilage, using a soft linen 
 cloth, and at once place the face side next to the under side 
 of the convex glass. Place soft paper over it, and work 
 out all air and moisture, beginning at the center. When 
 perfectly smooth, lay the picture aside for an hour, after 
 which wet the entire surface with the mixture of castor-oil 
 and balsam of fir, and place in the sun. In about eight 
 hours the picture will become perfectly transparent. After 
 it has become perfectly transparent, wipe off the picture 
 with castor-oil and a linen cloth to free it from the sticki- 
 ness caused by the balsam of fir. The picture is now ready 
 for the paint. 
 
 How to Paint the Picture. 
 
 Take a fine brush and the least possible amount of flake 
 white, and touch the white spots in the eyes. Next outline 
 the face, ear, nose, and mouth with a slight line of white. 
 If the eyes you wish to paint are blue, use Vandyke brown 
 for the pupils, and Prussian blue mixed with a little white 
 for the rest of the eye, using white for the corners. If the 
 eye is brown, paint the pupil black, and the rest of the eye 
 brown. The corners are painted with white and yellow 
 mixed for dark eyes. For a blonde, paint the lips with 
 white and rose-madder ; for a brunette, use white and Ver- 
 million. For the center of the ear, use a fine paint of Ver- 
 million ; for the rest of the ear, white, with a slight touch of 
 rose-madder. Paint the cheeks and chin of a blonde with a 
 
TBANSFEBBING PICTUBES. 347 
 
 mixture of rose-madder, white, and a little touch of yellow. 
 For a brunette use vermillion instead of rose-madder. This 
 mixture gives the flesh tint. Use the flesh tint beneath the 
 brows and around the eyes. Add a little white to this, and 
 paint around the edges of the hair, increasing the amount of 
 white r as you near the eyebrows. Use flesh tint for the 
 neck. For blondes, use a background made of Prussian 
 blue, rose-madder, and white; and for brunettes use white, 
 rose-madder, and terre-verte, well mixed. For jewelry, use 
 orange yellow mixed with a little white. For hair slightly 
 gray, use ivory black and pure white mixed. For auburn 
 hair, mix white, yellow ochre, and vandyke brown. 
 
 These pictures will remain in good condition for some 
 time, but after a few years will become opaque. Good ma- 
 terials are absolutely necessary. This work requires much 
 patient effort. When the painting is all done, place the 
 picture in an oval frame, such as are found at the picture 
 stores. • 
 
 Decalcomania, or the Art of Transferring Pictures. 
 
 There is no more ready process for decorating panels, 
 vases, flower stands, the beds of vehicles, and, in fact, any- 
 thing upon which a picture can be placed with slight cost, 
 than the art of decalcomania. 
 
 The Materials. 
 
 The pictures for transferring are for sale in picture, 
 paint, and varnish stores at very trifling cost. The other 
 materials are, a small quantity of balsam of fir, or some 
 good white varnish which will dry quickly, a small sponge, 
 and a brush for applying the varnish. 
 
348 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 How to Transfer the Picture. 
 
 A little practice is required to make a neat transfer. 
 Clean the object to which the picture is to be applied, and 
 take great care to leave it dry and perfectly free from any 
 oily substance. Apply a thin, even coating of either var- 
 nish or balsam of fir to the face of the picture, and press the 
 picture to the surface to which it is to be transferred. Be 
 careful that the picture is never moved after it is once ap- 
 plied. Smooth it down very evenly, working out every 
 blister and air-hole. The next step is to remove the paper, 
 which will then reveal the picture firmly stuck to the sur- 
 face intended. The process of removing the paper is 
 very simple, but skill is required. With the sponge, 
 moisten the paper, gradually but thoroughly. This should 
 be done before the varnish is quite dry. When the paper 
 has been sufficiently moistened, it should be neatly peeled 
 off, beginning at a corner, when, if the foregoing instruc- 
 tions have been faithfully observed, the picture will be re- 
 vealed firmly sticking where desired. Sometimes a portion 
 ©f the picture will come off with the paper; this results from 
 one of three causes, — either the varnish was not evenly 
 spread, or it had not dried enough to hold the picture, or 
 the paper had not been sufficiently moistened. The remedy 
 is apparent. 
 
 Among the late uses to which this method has been put 
 is the transferring of pictures to silk and satin, in place of 
 painting, and it may not be amiss to state that when they 
 are transferred, the pictures very much resemble oil paint- 
 ings. There is no reason why these pictures could not be 
 transferred to any plaque or vase, making really beautiful 
 ornaments. If the pictures are not attainable at local stores, 
 they can be obtained in the larger cities. 
 
Gfu^fktrk ff^ m 
 
 SOMETHING NOVEL IN EMBROIDERY. — FISH SCALES. — HOW 
 TO MAKE BAGS AND SACHETS. — COVER FOR A BABY'S 
 CRIB. — OVAL FRAMES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS. — BASKETS. — 
 A KITCHEN TABLE TRANSFORMED INTO A LIBRARY 
 TABLE. — HOW TO MAKE RUGS. — SHEEPSKIN RUGS. 
 
 llSH SCALE EMBROIDERY.-— It remained for 
 some ingenious admirer of the denizens of the 
 deep to invent some plan by which the scales 
 of fishes might be utilized for decorative pur- 
 poses. The scales of any fish will answer, but 
 those of perch are preferred on account of the 
 variation of colors, but usually a variety of 
 scales is needed. After being removed from 
 the fish, the scales must be cleaned, and while 
 moist two holes punched near the roots with a 
 small awl or darning needle, or short incisions 
 may be made on the opposite sides, for fastening 
 them on the design, after which they should be 
 placed between the folds of some paper to dry. 
 Silk or satin will answer for a ground upon which to set 
 the design, but velvet is also appropriate. Dark colors are 
 best. To fasten the scales, use fine silver wife, or light- 
 colored silk will answer. To get a good design, it should 
 first be drawn on paper, and the outlines pricked through 
 with a pin, after which the pattern should be placed on the 
 material, and powdered whiting rubbed through the pin 
 
 y [349J 
 
850 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 holes. This will give the outline upon the material, but as 
 it will soon brush off, go over it with ordinary water colors. 
 Beads may be used to make the stems of the design, and 
 the flowers and leaves worked with scales. If several tints 
 are desired, the scales may be varnished with bright colors 
 before they are sewed on. 
 
 A Design for Fish Scale Embroidery. — Our illustra- 
 tion gives a very pretty design. The ground is of maroon- 
 colored silk. Work the stem in old-gold silk twist. The 
 leaves and roses are made of scales. In making the leaves, 
 
 the silver wire must be carried across the 
 
 scales to represent ^^ ^ 1==^ the veins. And 
 
 to make the ro 
 outer circle of 
 sewing thro' 
 next circle 
 stitches, and 
 next, until 
 is reached, 
 b e finished 
 beads, or, if 
 small, one will 
 bird is worked 
 eyes are each 
 the beak, legs 
 
 t5 
 
 claws 
 
 ses, sew on the 
 
 scales first, 
 
 the holes ; the 
 
 laps over the 
 
 so with the 
 
 the center 
 
 which may 
 
 with a few 
 
 the flower be 
 
 answer. The 
 
 as follows: The 
 
 ofle black bead 
 
 worked 
 
 and claws are 
 
 the same as the stems. For the wings, the scales are sewed on 
 with silver wire carried across, the different sizes and colors 
 of scales making up the entire bird. For pointed ends of 
 wings the scales may be clipped to a point with the scissors. 
 A necklace and cross of scales worked on black velvet 
 make a very pretty ornament for an evening toilet. 
 
 Bags, Sachets, etc. — Reticules and bags are now very 
 popular, and any lady having a desire to possess one may 
 make it without great expense. Satin is the favorite, but 
 plush and other materials are quite as appropriate. 
 
 They should be made with draw-strings of satin, and 
 should be embroidered or painted in some appropriate de- 
 sign. Peacock's feathers, violets, pansies, dog-wood, and 
 primroses are favorite subjects. The inside should be lined 
 
PATTERNS FOR FRAMES AND BASKETS. 351 
 
 with some stiff material. The handle may be made of 
 twisted silk cord. 
 
 Cover for a Baby's Crib. — There was recently shown at 
 the rooms of the Society of Decorative Art in New York, a 
 crib cover which attracted great attention. The material 
 was worked with silk, on white linen, the design, in outline, 
 being several sleepy birds perched upon a branch, with a 
 motto underneath, — 
 
 "Little babes which sleep all night, 
 Laugh in the face of sorrow ; 
 Little birds which sleep all night 
 Sing carols on the morrow." 
 
 By way of suggestion, it might be added that the design 
 might be worked on some semi-transparent goods with a 
 bright lining; underneath. 
 
 Oval Picture Frames. — Very handsome frames for card * 
 and cabinet photographs and other small pictures, may be 
 made in the following manner: Take a piece of pine board 
 one-fourth of an inch thick, the size you wish your frame 
 to be, and with a saw cut out an oval opening in the cen- 
 ter, large enough to suit the picture. Cover the board with 
 velvet, plush, or silk, cutting out the center and turning the 
 edges of the plush around the edges of the board, and also at 
 the oval opening. Fasten the picture over the opening with 
 strips of paper pasted across, and then cover the entire back 
 with some colored paper. The frame may have narrow bands 
 of ribbon or other colored material running diagonally from 
 the edge to the oval ; or sprays of flowers may be painted 
 or embroidered across one corner, just touching the oval. 
 Square frames may also be made in a similar manner. 
 
 Imitation Coral Hanging Baskets.— Take old hoops 
 with the coverjpg on ; bend and tie in any shape desired ; 
 tie with wrapping-twine, with ends of the twine left one- 
 fourth of an inch long; cover the basket when formed with 
 knots or ties about one inch apart all over the basket. 
 Then take one-half pound of bees-wax, melt in a shallow 
 pan, stir in enough Japanese vermillion to get the color you 
 
352 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 wish, then roll the basket in the melted wax until it is 
 completely covered. The resemblance to red coral is very 
 true, and the basket is admired by every one. We have 
 seen one made in this way, that has hung exposed to the 
 weather for two years, and is still as good as new. 
 
 Baskets for Waste Paper, etc. — Take two tapering bas- 
 kets, such as peaches are shipped in, and fasten them to- 
 gether, bottom to bottom, making an hour-glass shape. 
 Line the inside of each basket, but use different colors, say 
 one pink, the other blue ; cambric will answer for the lining. 
 For a cover, select whatever material may suit the fancy, 
 and work some designs in outline upon it; fasten this cover 
 to the basket from top to bottom, and draw in the middle 
 with a ribbon. By selecting baskets of a proper size, they 
 may be made serviceable for office use. 
 
 It will be observed that this makes, in reality, two bas- 
 kets, or rather a reversible basket. 
 
 An Elegant Table. — An ordinary kitchen table can, 
 with little trouble, be transformed into quite an elegant 
 piece of furniture for the library. The top and legs are 
 smoothly covered with green cloth ; the seam on the legs to 
 be neatly sewed, and the joining made on the inside of the 
 leg that it may not show. It is then tacked at the top to 
 hold it in place. The cloth is drawn smoothly over the 
 top, and tacked all around the sides. The head-piece ex- 
 tending around the sides of the table must also be covered. 
 An under-shelf is made of pine wood covered with cloth, 
 and fitted securely to the legs about eight inches below the 
 top. A heavy cord fringe of green worsted must be 
 fastened around the edge of the top, also around the shelf, 
 with brass-headed nails about an inch and a half apart. A 
 castor fitted into each leg will finish a very handsome table 
 for the parlor or library. 
 
 How to Make Rugs. 
 
 Filled Rugs. — Here is a plan for making very handsome 
 and serviceable rugs at little expense. The foundation is 
 some strong but open cloth; as crash, drugget, or coffee 
 
HOW TO MAKE RUGS. 
 
 353 
 
 sacks. The foundation should be stretched upon a frame, 
 and some pretty design sketched upon it; the sketch should 
 then be filled in with silk, cotton, or woolen rags of tasty 
 colors. Siik rags look best, of course, but worsted may be 
 used with excellent effect. If the design is a good one, the 
 rug will be quite satisfactory. The rags should be drawn 
 through with a large crochet needle, and the ends cut every 
 stitch ; and when the work is complete, all the ends should 
 be sheared off to an even length. It is hardly necessary to 
 add that the foundation should be entirely concealed by the 
 filling, and the wrong side lined with some coarse material. 
 A fringe all around would add to the effect. 
 
 Rugs of Sheepskin.— Here is a field for ladies who will 
 take the pains to follow our suggestion, to make many 
 pretty and useful articles. Wool is easily colored, either 
 on the skin or in f abrics. Sheepskin with the wool on can 
 be quite easily tanned. Boil the skin a short time in strong 
 soap suds to which has been added some sal-soda, and soak 
 it for twelve hours in half a pound each of salt and alum 
 with enough water to cover the skin; this process com- 
 pletes the tanning. To dress it, procure a large board, to 
 which tack the skin, flesh side out, and before it is dry 
 sprinkle it with a powder of equal parts of alum and salt- 
 petre. Leave it to dry for thirty hours, and then rub it 
 thoroughly with pumice stone, to make it soft and pliable. 
 To make a rug of the skin, the ends of the wool should be 
 colored to suit the fancy, with aniline or other dyes, after 
 which it should be trimmed and lined. 
 
 Carriage Rugs. — Very attractive carriage rugs are 
 made by bordering some bright cloth with strips of the 
 skin, colored to match, or to harmonize with the center of 
 the rug. 
 
 To Conceal Flower-Pots. 
 
 The ordinary Japanese fan has found still another use; 
 viz., to conceal the unsightly sides of common flower-pots. 
 Remove the rivet which holds the fan together, and in its 
 place insert a wire long enough to reach around the pot. 
 
 23 
 
354 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Fasten the fan around the base by means of the wire, 
 spreading out the ribs of the fan so that they extend entirely 
 around, and complete the work by fastening the extreme 
 edges of the fan at the top. 
 
 Simple as it is, this transforms an unsightly receptacle for 
 flowers into one more in harmony with its surroundings. 
 
 Pretty Lamp-Shades. 
 
 The pretty lamp-shades for sale in the stores, can be 
 made at home just as well, and with much less expense. 
 Procure a sheet of tissue-paper of the desired color, and cut 
 it ^ perfect square. Fold two opposite edges, creasing it 
 through the middle; fold again the other way, thus making 
 a smaller square of four thicknesses. Next fold this square 
 so as to form a triangle, and then this triangle into a smaller 
 one, letting the folds point to the center, until you can fold 
 the paper no more. Now taking hold of the center with 
 one hand, shake out the folds, and gently smooth it down, 
 forming many creases. Cut out the center large enough to 
 slip over the globe, and the shade is complete, unless you 
 wish to fringe the edges. Cardinal, pink, violet, or light 
 blue are the best colors to choose. 
 
GxFIAF>TRR TV. 
 
 ENCAUSTIC TILES. — THEIR DURABILITY. — HOW TO USE THEM. 
 — PAVING HEARTHS. — COST. — MANTELS. — HOW TO GET 
 THEM.— CABINETS. — HOME DECORATION OF TILES. 
 
 =>>Kc 
 
 O other like material presents better opportunities 
 for gratifying the desire to embellish and beau- 
 tify our homes, than the use of Encaustic Tiles. 
 They are made of powdered clay from which 
 all foreign substances have been removed; usu- 
 ally they are in squares varying from one to 
 eight inches; some styles are oblong, others tri- 
 angular. 
 
 Clay can be colored all tints; and the same 
 block, by means of stamps and presses, may have 
 a perfect and pleasing figure of two or more 
 colors. When properly pressed and burnt, these tiles are very 
 serviceable, and when the additional work of glazing is put 
 on, they are well-nigh as durable as stone for the purposes 
 intended. 
 
 Whether required for the floors or walls of vestibules, or 
 the ornamentation of hearths and mantels, as well as for 
 other purposes of decoration, their endless variety, their 
 
 [355] 
 
7. HOMES AM' THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 various shades an<l colors, combine in farming a material 
 suited to purposes uf ornament, and as durable as beautiful. 
 
 Hearths and Pavements. 
 
 A hearth or hall can be paved with tiles at a very rea- 
 sonable cost, about fifty cents per square foot, and when 
 once di ne, the whole always presents a neat anil cosey ap- 
 pearance, and is easily cleaned. 
 
 The patterns can usuallv be -elected from catalogues 
 furnished by dealers and manufacturers. 
 
 It is becoming popular to lay whole floors in tiles, and as 
 people become better acquainted with this material, it.- use 
 will supersede wood in manv cases where durability and 
 beauty are desired 
 
 The tile floor or hearth is laid in mortar, and presents a 
 perfectly smooth surface, the joints fitting closely, and the 
 whole contrasting finely with carpets and furniture. 
 
 Mantels, Cabinets, etc. 
 
 The panels at sides and top of mantels are frequently 
 
 ornamented with til-.-. A very attractive mantel of el 
 ized or other wood can be decorated in (his way. and the 
 whole cost is much 1—.- than for the cold and costly slate or 
 marble mantel. The tiles are set in the panels, - mething 
 after the fashion of a picture in a frame. These are more 
 costly than floor tilings, a,- they are ornamented with all 
 kin']- of designs, comprising such subjects as Is, flow - 
 foliagt designs from history, Shi ire, and the Script- 
 
 ure-. 
 
 Panel- f '.'aV'iucts • facings, an 1 furniture ma;. 
 ornamented in the same way, and where the designs nsist 
 
MANTELS AND CABINETS. 357 
 
 of geometric figures, which for the door-facings are appro- 
 priate, the cost is low. Small tiles may be set into any fur- 
 niture desirable, by cutting away the wood to the desired 
 size, and inserting the tile with plaster or putty. As the 
 field of home decoration is comparatively broad, the good 
 taste of the proprietor is about the only guide as to the ex- 
 tent and scope of the work. 
 
 Such tiles can be procured six to eight inches square, at 
 a cost of from $1.80 to So. 00 per dozen. Persons of decor- 
 ative talent can buy the plain tiles and decorate them to 
 suit their fancy, returning them to the factory to have the 
 designs burned in; this practice has of late become very 
 popular. 
 
 It is advisable to consult catalogues of designs and prices 
 from some reliable dealer or manufacturer, before attempt- 
 ing to do very much in this style of decoration, yet there is 
 no doubt that in a few years examples may be found 
 in almost every home. 
 
LLNOEITSTI- WILTON. 
 
 Lincrusta- Walton is the name of a new material for 
 wall and ceiling decorations, recently introduced from 
 England. It is intended to supply the place of wall-paper, 
 fresco, or plaster, and at the same time to give the effect 
 of elegant carvings, at moderate cost. This material has 
 been quite extensively used in Europe, and has met all the 
 requirements of a perfect wall covering. It is composed of 
 vegetable fiber and oils to make it plastic, and while in this 
 state it is stamped in many chaste patterns. By means of 
 stamps, colors, bronze, and gold, it can be made to imitate 
 carved wood, metals, or any other materials intended for 
 walls or ceilings. 
 
 It is not affected by variations of heat or cold, and may 
 be washed thoroughly without injury. It is not damaged 
 by the action of water, as samples have been exposed on the 
 outside of buildings and immersed in water for one vear 
 with no evil effects. 
 
 I It would be difficult to produce a material which im- 
 parts richer effects, and lends an air of more refinement to a 
 room. 
 
 Angles and joints offer no opposition to its appli- 
 cation, as it is so flexible that it may be fitted to any 
 surface by the use of paste, just the same as wall-paper is 
 applied. [358] 
 
-^v; > 3i>«flgl31glifflgllWBHU^»lfliaiai3lgl,il>TI^ 
 
 ftAIW'rv.^-yM'i 
 
 LINCRUSTA WALTON. 
 
LINCRUSTA-W ALTON. 
 
 359 
 
 Its cost is about that of the finer qualities of wall-paper, 
 but its durability and elegance recommend it, and it is much 
 more economical in the long run. A manufactory has re- 
 cently been established in Connecticut, and its general use 
 in all the better class of buildings seems but a question of 
 time. 
 
 This material is controlled by the Lincrusta-Walton 
 Company, 41 Union Square, N. Y., and all leading dealers 
 in wall decorations keep it in stock. 
 
 The accompanying illustration gives a very clear idea of 
 the material, except that it is impossible to reproduce the 
 rich effects of the blending of colors upon the objects in 
 relief. 
 
Chapter V. 
 
 DYEING AND BLEACHING. 
 
 DYEING COTTON. — HOW TO TREAT THE FABRICS. — DIREC- 
 TIONS FOR ALL LEADING COLORS. — DYEING WOOLENS 
 ANILINE COLORS. — COLORING STRAW HATS. — HOW TO 
 MAKE MORDANTS. 
 
 o>*ic 
 
 JVERY frugal housewife has frequent occasion to 
 resort to Dyeing to restore faded but slightly 
 worn garments and other articles of dress to 
 the original or some other color, as well as to 
 color yarns. But she has not always at hand 
 the proper directions for making the dyes, and 
 so many times the professional dyer is given the 
 work. 
 
 In the following pages are such direction 
 and recipes as will be found of great value in 
 preparing the garments for and giving them the 
 desired color. It will be observed that separate directions 
 are given for Cotton and Wool as it frequently happens 
 that the bath intended for woolens will not color cotton the 
 desired shade. 
 
 This department contains a list of reliable and trust- 
 
 [36CiJ 
 
DYEING COTTON. 3G1 
 
 worthy recipes for all colors that can be made without the 
 aid of an experienced dyer. The proportions are generally 
 in such quantities as are needed most. In the fixation of 
 color upon cloth, recourse is often had to a Trior dant, which 
 acts as a middle agent and attaches the color to the cloth. 
 
 The principal mordants are alum, cream of tartar, and 
 salts of tin. Previous to the application of any color, the 
 cloth or yarn must be well cleansed from grease, oil, etc., by 
 scouring in soda or soap ; and except where the material is 
 to be dyed of dark color, the goods are also subjected to the 
 process of bleaching. In case of fabrics which require a 
 smooth surface, the preliminary operation of singeing off the 
 loose hairs is resorted to. 
 
 Note. — Many of the within Dyeing recipes are taken from the Peoples' 
 Cyclopedia, a work which is pronounced by the best critics superior to 
 any other Cyclopedia ever published. 
 
 Dyeing Cotton. 
 
 The following recipes for dyeing cotton apply to 10 
 pounds weight of cotton yarn or cloth, which is found to be 
 the smallest quantity capable of being well dyed at one time. 
 The proportions of each ingredient may be altered, however, 
 so as to correspond with the quantity to be operated upon. 
 
 1. Common Black. — Take 3 lbs. sumac, and treat with 
 hot water, steeping the goods in the hot decoction for some 
 hours; wring out, wash for 10 minutes in lime-water, and 
 for 30 minutes in a solution of 2 lbs. copperas. 
 
 Wash the goods well in cold water, sometimes repeating 
 the treatment with lime, and rewashing; then work the 
 goods for 30 minutes in a warm solution of 3 lbs. of log- 
 wood, and afterward with 2 oz. copperas; work again for 
 10 minutes; wash and dry. 
 
362 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 2. Jet Black. — Proceed as at 1, adding 1 lb. of fustic 
 with the logwood ; and when 3 pts. of iron liquor are used 
 instead of the 2 oz. copperas, a more brilliant black is 
 obtained. 
 
 3. Blue Black. — Use indigo blue vat, then proceed as 
 at 1. 
 
 4. Brown. — Treat the goods with a yellow dye, then 
 work for 30 minutes in a decoction of 2 lbs. lima wood, 
 and 8 oz. logwood; lift and work with 2 oz. alum for 15 
 minutes, then wash and dry. 
 
 5. Catechu Brown. — Immerse the goods at a boiling 
 temperature in a decoction of catechu; then work for 
 30 minutes in a hot solution of 6 oz. bichromate of pot- 
 ash. Wash in hot water. If the latter contains a little 
 soap, the color will be improved. 
 
 6. French Brown. — Dye the goods witb/a spirit yellow, 
 then treat for half an hour with a solution of 3 lbs. of log- 
 wood; raise with a little red liquor, work for 10 minutes, 
 wash and dry. 
 
 7. Red. — Make a hot solution of 3 lbs. of sumac, intro- 
 duce the goods, and let them stand till the liquor is cold ; 
 then wring out and work in water containing in each gallon 
 a gill of red spirits (prepared by adding 2 oz. feathered 
 tin by degrees to a mixture of 3 parts hydrochloric acid, 
 1 part of nitric acid, and 1 of water), in the cold, for 
 30 minutes, wring and wash well; then work the goods 
 for 30 minutes in a lukewarm decoction of 3 lbs. of 
 lima wood and 1 lb. of fustic, add a gill of red spirits, 
 work the goods longer, wash and dry. The famous Turkey- 
 red is imparted to the cloth by first impregnating it with an 
 oily or fatty substance, and then subjecting it to a decoc- 
 tion of madder. 
 
DYEING COTTON. 363 
 
 8. Yellow or Straw. — Work the goods in a weak solu- 
 tion of acetate of lead ; then wring out, and work in a dilute 
 solution of bichromate of potash ; wring out, and work again 
 in the lead solution; wash and dry. 
 
 9. Leghorn Yelloiv. — Proceed as at 8, but add a little 
 annotto liquor with the solution of bichromate of potash. 
 
 10. Spirit Yelloiv. — Work the goods through a weak 
 solution of protochloride of tin for 30 minutes, then work in 
 a solution of quercitron bark for 15 minutes. Lift out, and 
 work again in tin solution, and wash in cold water. 
 
 11. Orange. — Proceed as at 8, and afterward pass 
 through lime-water at the boiling point, finally washing in 
 cold water. 
 
 12. Blue. — The goods are worked in various strengths 
 of solution of salts of iron, such as nitrate of iron; wring 
 out, wash in water, and then work in solution of yellow 
 prussiate of potash; wring out and wash in water, and then 
 work in solution of yellow prussiate of alum. The various 
 shades of blue may be obtained by using stronger or weaker 
 solutions. 
 
 13. Green. — Dye the cloth blue, then work in red liquor 
 (acetate of alumina), wash in water, work in decoction of 
 fustic or bark, raise with solution of alum; wash in cold 
 water and dry. The darker shades of green, as olive or 
 bottle green, are brought out by the use of sumac and log- 
 wood, along with the fustic. 
 
 14. Lilac. — Work the cloth or yarn with spirits, (see 7), 
 then in logwood solution at a temperature of 140° Fahr- 
 enheit, adding a little red spirits, red liquor, or alum, wash 
 and dry; or dye the cloth blue (12), then work in solution 
 of logwood, add alum, wash and dry. 
 
364 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 15. Purple. — Soak the goods in a warm decoction of 
 sumac till cold, work for an hour in red spirits, wash, work 
 in hot solution of logwood, then add a little red spirits, and 
 work again, wash and dry. The various shades of purple 
 may be obtained by altering the strength of the chemicals ; 
 the more sumac, the browner the hue; and the more log- 
 wood, the bluer the purple becomes. 
 
 16. Lavender or Peach. — Work the goods for 20 min- 
 utes in spirit plumb (a strong solution of logwood treated 
 with about one-sixth of its volume of a solution of tin; made 
 by dissolving tin in 6 or 7 parts of hydrochloric acid, 1 part 
 of nitric acid, and 1 of water), wring out and wash well in 
 cold water. 
 
 17. Drab. — Work the goods in a decoction of sumac, 
 lift, add copperas, rework, wash in water, then work in a 
 mixed decoction of fustic, lima wood, and logwood, raise 
 with a little alum, wash and dry. Catechu is occasionally 
 employed. 
 
 Woolen Dyeing. 
 
 A pound of wool woven into common merino measures 
 about 3 yards, common moreen about 2 yards. 
 
 1. Jet Black. — For 50 lbs. Prepare with 2j lbs. chrome, 
 boil half an hour, and wash in two waters. Dye with 20 
 lbs. logwood and 2 lbs. fustic. Boil half an hour, in one 
 water, then rinse in a slight sour, moderately warm, wash in 
 one cold water, and finish out of a warm one, softened with 
 a little urine. 
 
 2. Fast Black. — For 50 lbs. Prepare with 2 lbs. chrome, 
 1 lb. tartar, and 1 quart muriate of tin; boil 1 hour and 
 wash in 2 waters. Dye with 25 lbs. logwood and 3 lbs. 
 
DYEING WOOLEN. 365 
 
 fustic. Boil 30 minutes, lift, add 1 pt. vitriol. Return for 
 10 minutes, then wash and dry. To render this blue-black, 
 omit the fustic. 
 
 3. French Brown. — For 50 lbs. Preparation: 1| lbs. 
 chrome. Dyeing, 6 lbs. cudbear, 1 lb. tartar; and if not 
 dark enough, add 8 oz. logwood. Boil half an hour. 
 
 4. Claret. — For 50 lbs. Preparation: 1| lbs. chrome. 
 Dyeing, 9 lbs. lima wood, 2 lbs. logwood, ^ lb. tartar. Boil 
 half an hour. 
 
 5. Purple. — For 50 lbs. Wash in a preparation of 1^ 
 lbs. tartar, and 1 lb. alum; wash in 3 waters. Dye with 
 10 lbs. logwood, boil half an hour, raise with 1 quart muri- 
 ate of tin. 
 
 6. Pale Blue. — For 50 lbs. 1 gill sulphuric acid, 3 oz. 
 extract of indigo, 1 lb. alum. Enter cold with one-half of 
 the extract, give the other half when the boiler warms. 
 
 7. Pea Green. — For 54 lbs. 2 lbs. extract of indigo, 7 
 lbs. fustic, 1 lb. alum. Bring on from the cold, when the 
 boiler heats to 180° Fahrenheit, put in the fustic, boil 15 
 minutes. 
 
 8. Olive Green. — For 50 lbs. Prepare with H lbs. chrome; 
 boil half an hour, and wash in 2 waters; then boil 12 lbs. 
 fustic and 2| lbs. logwood for 1 hour; add 2 lbs. madder 
 and 2 lbs. redwood. Enter; boil half an hour. Raise in 
 the same liquor with 4 oz. blue-stone; wash well and dry. 
 
 9. Drab. — For 50 lbs. 7 lbs. fustic, 8 oz. madder, 4 oz. 
 cudbear, 2 lbs. alum, 8 oz. tartar. Enter between the cold 
 and 160° Fahrenheit; after heating up, boil from 10 to 30 
 minutes; wash in 2 waters. All dark shades of this and 
 the following color may be slightly prepared with chrome; 
 wash in 2 waters. 
 
2Q6 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 10. Slate. — For 50 lbs. 1 lb. logwood, 4 oz. fustic, 8 
 oz. extract of indigo, 2 lbs. tartar, 2 lbs. alum. Work as 
 for drab. 
 
 11. Yellow. — For 40 lbs. 2i lbs. quercitron bark, 2 lbs. 
 tartar, 2 quarts muriate of tin. Enter at 150° Fahrenheit; 
 boil 30 minutes. 
 
 12. Amber. — For 40 lbs. Boil 4 lbs. quercitron bark and 
 8 oz. madder. Add 2 quarts muriate of tin, 1 lb. tartar. 
 Enter at 200° Fahrenheit; boil 30 minutes. 
 
 13. Orange. — For 50 lbs. Boil 10 lbs. quercitron bark 
 and lj lb. cochineal. Add 2 lbs. tartar, 2 J quarts yellow 
 spirits. Enter at 200° Fahrenheit; boil 30 minutes. 
 
 14. Rose Color. — For 40 lbs. 1 lb. cochineal, 3 gills 
 double muriate of tin, 1 lb. tartaric acid. Enter at 100° 
 Fahrenheit, heat up; boil 15 minutes; lift, and cool to 120 9 
 T)y throwing out part of the liquor, and filling up with 
 water; add 1 gill ammonia paste, 12 oz. tartaric acid, 6 oz. 
 oxalic acid. Bring up to boiling; when the desired shade 
 is reached, wash well and dry. 
 
 15 Scarlet with Cochineal. — For 50 lbs. Boil 4 lbs. 
 cochineal and If lb. quercitron bark. Add 3 lbs. tartar, 2 
 qts. scarlet spirits. Enter at 200° Fahrenheit; boil 1 
 one hour; wash well. Sour before dyeing, either cold or 
 "warm ; wash in 1 water and take out. 
 
 Aniline Colors. — No mordant is necessary for these 
 colors when used on silk or woolen; the proper quantity 
 of clear liquid is mixed with slightly warm water, the scum 
 skimmed off, and the goods entered and worked until 
 the required shade is obtained. For dyeing cotton, the 
 cloth is steeped in sumac or tannic acid, dyed in the color, 
 and then fixed by tin; or the cloth may be sumaced 
 and mordanted as usual with tin, and then dyed. 
 
ANILINE DYES. 3G7 
 
 Aniline Dyes. 
 
 The following recipes are for working pure anilines, 
 and we suggest that to obtain good colors, the dyes used 
 should be those of the Crown Aniline Works (T. H. Eaton 
 and Son, Detroit, Mich). The}/ can be obtained of any re- 
 liable druggist who may choose to order them, or the cus- 
 tomer can order direct from the manufacturers. It is very 
 important to have clean soft water and clean goods to make 
 good colors. To remove grease from goods, run them 
 through sal-soda water. When you dye, use wood or cop- 
 per vessels. 
 
 Dissolving. — Aniline dyes of all colors should be dis- 
 solved in water boiling hot, using 10 gallons of hot water to 
 one pound of dye, and smaller quantities in proportion, be- 
 fore being placed in the bath intended for immersing the 
 
 goods. 
 
 Dyeing Wool. 
 
 Magenta, — Crimson. — Violet. — Dye in a neutral bath 
 (a neutral bath is a bath of clean water only). Start at 
 hand heat, and raise the temperature of the bath to below 
 boiling point, but do not boil. The amount of dye to be 
 used will depend upon the color you want to produce; the 
 goods may be raised from time to time, and more dye 
 added. Care should be taken to turn the goods well while 
 in the bath ; wash in clean cold water, wring, and dry. 
 
 For Silk, dye as above, only add a little dissolved Mar- 
 seilles soap. 
 
 Scarlets and Cardinals.— -For 50 pounds of goods, 
 (smaller quantities in proportion), take one pound cochineal 
 
368 OUR EOMEtS AND THEIR ADORXMEXTS. 
 
 substitute, or one pound cardinal red, dissolve, and add to a 
 bath soured with oil of vitriol until the bath is about as sour 
 as weak vinegar ; enter the goods at hand heat, turn well 
 while raising to the boil, and boil 30 minutes. Wash in 
 cold water, wring, and dry. 
 
 Silk is dyed in the same manner, only use strong vine- 
 gar to sour the bath, and a some Marseilles soap. 
 
 Scarlet and cardinal are fast colors, and will not fade. 
 
 Pink. — For 50 pounds, take \ pound of eosine, dissolve 
 and add to a bath containing 5 lbs. of alum ; bring to the 
 boil, but do not boil long. 
 
 Orange. — Dye the same as scarlet ; use Orange I. 
 
 Acid or Navy Blue. — For 50 pounds of goods, take one 
 pound navy or any acid blue, dissolve the blue, and add 
 to a bath containing: oil of vitriol sufficient to make it as 
 sour as weak vinegar ; boil goods for one hour, wash well in 
 cold water, wring, and dry. 
 
 Nicholson Blue {Fast Blue). — For 50 pounds of goods, 
 take \ pound 3 B, Nicholson blue, dissolve, and add 
 to a bath containing 5 pounds sal-soda. Enter the 
 goods, and work to the boiling point, boiling 30 minutes ; 
 then take out and wash in clean cold water. Prepare a 
 second bath of clean water, make it sour to taste with oil 
 of vitriol, bring the bath to hand heat, enter the goods, 
 and bring to boiling point. Wash well in cold water, 
 wring, and dry. 
 
 Seal Broivn. — For 50 pounds of goods, dissolve one 
 pound mode brown in 5 gallons boiling water; make your 
 bath quite sour with oil of vitriol, add 5 pounds of glauber 
 
USEFUL SUGGESTIONS. 369 
 
 Baits. Enter the goods, boil 30 minutes, wash in cole] water, 
 and dry. 
 
 Yellow. — Dye with acid yellow, and work same as 
 scarlet. 
 
 Green. — Dye with Frankfort green the same as for fast 
 blue. 
 
 Anilines are not adapted for domestic cotton dyeing, but 
 a good color can be made with cotton blue by working in 
 a bath of clear water containing cotton blue, alum, and 
 glauber salts. For 50 pounds of goods, £ pound blue, 2£ 
 pounds alum, and 2 pounds glauber salts. 
 
 Useful Suggestions. 
 
 In accommodation to the requirements of dyers, many of 
 the recipes describe dyes for large quantities of goods; but 
 to make them equally adapted for the use of private fami- 
 lies, they are usually given in even quantities, so that it is 
 quite an easy matter to ascertain the quantity of materials 
 required for dyeing, when once the weight of the goods is 
 known, the quantity of materials used being reduced in 
 proportion to the smaller quantity of goods. 
 
 Use soft water for all dyeing purposes, if it can be pro- 
 cured, using 4 gals, water to 1 lb. of goods ; for larger quan- 
 tities, a little less water will do. Let all the implements 
 used in dyeing be kept perfectly clean. Prepare the goods 
 by scouring well with soap and water, washing the soap out 
 well and dipping in warm water, previous to immersion in 
 the dye or mordant. Goods should be well aired, rinsed, and 
 properly hung up after dyeing. Silks, and fine goods should 
 be tenderly handled, otherwise injury to the fabric will re- 
 sult, a* 
 
370 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Mordants are solutions used to fix colors and may be 
 made from several common chemicals. A good one is made 
 by mixing copperas and acetate of iron in proportion of 
 four of the former to six of the latter. Immerse the cotton 
 -or linen to be colored, in this before putting in color vat. 
 Mordants must be used in dyeing cotton fabrics, as they fix 
 the color. 
 
 Before using Cudbear, it must always be drenched with 
 a little hot water, to the consistency of paste ; then scald or 
 boil it as occasion may require. 
 
 A solution of tannin or sumac makes a good mordant. 
 Alum or cream of tartar will answer. 
 
 "Sour," referred to in some recipes, is made by stirring 
 into clean water enough sulphuric acid to give a sharp taste. 
 The acid can be procured at any druggist's. 
 
 To Color Straw Hats or Bonnets a Beautiful Slate. 
 — First, soak the bonnet in rather strong warm suds for 15 
 minutes, to remove sizing or stiffening; then rinse in warm 
 water, to get out the soap; now scald cudbear, 1 oz., in suf- 
 ficient water to cover the hat or bonnet ; work the bonnet 
 in this dye, at 180° of heat, until you get a light purple; 
 now have a bucket of cold water, blued with the extract of 
 indigo, h oz., and work or stir the bonnet in this until the 
 tint pleases; dry, then rinse out with cold water, and dry 
 again in the shade. If you get the purple too deep in 
 shade, the final slate will be too dark. 
 
 Dye for Feathers. — Black: Immerse for two or three 
 days in a bath, at first hot, of logwood, eight parts, and cop- 
 peras or acetate of iron, one part. Blue : with the indigo vat. 
 Brown : by using any of the brown dyes for silk or woolen. 
 Crimson: a mordant of alum, followed by a hot bath of 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR BLEACHING. 371 
 
 Brazil-wood, afterward by a weak dye of cudbear. Pink 
 or Rose: with saf -flower or lemon juice. Plum: with 
 the red dye, followed by an alkaline bath. Red: a mor- 
 dant of alum, followed by a bath of Brazil-wood. Yel- 
 low : a mordant of alum, followed by a bath of turmeric or 
 weld. Green Dye: take of verdigris and verditer, of 
 each one ounce, gum water 1 pt. ; mix them well, and dip 
 the feathers, they having been first soaked in hot water, 
 into the said mixture. For Purple, use lake and indigo 
 For Carnation, vermilion and smalt. Thin gum of 
 starch water should be used in dyeing feathers. 
 
 Bleaching. 
 
 To Bleach Sponge. — Soak it well in dilute muriatic 
 acid for twelve hours. Wash well with water to remove 
 the lime, then immerse in a solution of hyposulphate of soda, 
 to which dilute muriatic acid has been added a moment be- 
 fore. After it is bleached sufficiently, remove it, wash 
 again, and dry. It may thus be bleached almost white. 
 
 To Whiten Lace. — Lace may be restored to its original 
 whiteness by first ironing it slightly, then folding it, and 
 sewing it into a clean linen bag, which is placed for twenty 
 hours in pure olive-oil. Afterward the bag is to be boiled 
 in a solution of soap and water for fifteen minutes, then well 
 rinsed in lukewarm water, and finally dipped into water 
 containing a slight proportion of starch. The lace is then 
 to be taken from the bag, and stretched on pins to dry. 
 
 Bleaching Straw Goods. — Straw is bleached by simply 
 exposing it in a closed chamber to the fumes of burning sul- 
 phur, an old flour barrel is the apparatus most used for the 
 purpose by milliners, a flat stone being laid on the ground, 
 
372 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 the sulphur ignited thereon, and the barrel containing the 
 goods to be bleached turned over it. The goods should be 
 previously washed in pure water. 
 
 To Clean Ostrich Feathers. — Cut some white curd soap 
 in small pieces, pour boiling water on it and add a little 
 pearlash. When the soap is quite dissolved, and the mixt- 
 ure cool enough for the hand to bear, plunge the feathers 
 into it, and draw them through the hand till the dirt ap- 
 pears squeezed out of them, pass them through a clean lather 
 with some blue in it, then rinse them in cold water with 
 blue to give them a good color. Beat them against the 
 hand to shake off the water, and dry by shaking them 
 near a fire. When perfectly dry, coil each fiber separately 
 with a blunt knife, or ivory folder. 
 
 Bleaching Powder. — Chloride of lime makes a good 
 bleaching powder. The stuff to be bleached is first boiled 
 in lime-water; wash, and without drying, boil again in a 
 solution of soda or potash ; wash, and without drying, steep 
 in a weak mixture of chloride of lime and water for six 
 hours ; wash, and without drying, steep for four hours in a 
 weak solution or mixture of sulphuric acid and water; wash 
 well and dry. Upon an emergency, chlorate of potash, mixed 
 with three times its weight of common salt and diluted in 
 water, may be used as a bleaching liquid. 
 
 Bleaching Ivory. — Antique works in ivory that have 
 become discolored may be brought to a pure whiteness by 
 exposing them to the sun under glasses. It is the particular 
 property of ivory to resist the action of the sun's rays, when 
 it is under glass; but when deprived of this protection, to 
 become covered with a multitude of minute cracks. Many 
 antique pieces of sculpture in ivory may be seen, which, 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR BLEACHING. 373 
 
 although tolerably white, are, at the same time, defaced by 
 numerous cracks; this defect cannot be remedied; but in 
 order to conceal it, the dust may be removed by brushing 
 the work with warm water and soap, and afterward placing 
 it under glass. Antique works in ivory that have become 
 discolored, may be brushed with pumice-stone, calcined and 
 diluted, and while yet wet placed under glasses. They 
 should be daily exposed to the action of the sun, and be 
 turned from time to time, that they may become equally 
 bleached; if the brown color be deeper on one side than the 
 other, that side will, of course, be for the longest time ex- 
 posed to the sun. 
 
 To Bleach Prints and Printed Books. — Simple im- 
 mersion in dilute muriatic acid, letting the article remain in 
 it a longer or shorter space of time, according to the strength 
 of the liquor, will be sufficient to whiten an engraving ; if it 
 be required to whiten the paper of a bound book, as it is 
 necessary that all the leaves should be moistened by the 
 acid, care must be taken to open the book well, and to make 
 the boards rest on the edge of the vessel, in such a manner 
 that the paper alone shall be dipped in the liquid ; the leaves 
 must be separated from each other, in order that they may 
 be equally moistened on both sides. The liquor assumes a 
 yellow tint, and the paper becomes white in the same pro- 
 portion. At the end of two or three hours the book may be 
 taken from the acid liquor, and plunged into pure water 
 with the same care and precaution as recommended in re- 
 gard to the acid liquor, that the water may touch both sides 
 of each leaf. The water must be renewed every hour, to 
 extract the acid remaining in the paper, and to dissipate the 
 disagreeable smell. Printed paper may also be bleached by 
 sulphuric acid, or by alkaline or soap leys. 
 
374 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Washing Fluid. — Take 1 lb. sal-soda, \ lb. good un- 
 slaked lime, and 5 qts. of water; boil a short time, let it 
 settle, and pour off the clear fluid into a stone jug, and cork 
 for use; soak your white clothes over night in simple water, 
 wring out and soap wristbands, collars, and dirty or stained 
 places; have your boiler half filled with water just begin- 
 ning to boil, then put in one common tea-cupful of this fluid, 
 stir and put in your clothes, and boil for half an hour, then 
 rub lightly through one suds only, and all is complete. 
 
e-A_i> 
 
 7/* 
 
 
 Squsmold 
 
 t OIF" >- 
 
 [3751 
 
3KTKHIS department embraces a list of Recipes, many of 
 £j^e which have appeared in no other work, and the whole 
 
 list may be relied upon as practical, easy, and effective. 
 
 The following classification of subjects has been intro- 
 duced for the benefit of the reader : Hints on Health, Hints 
 on Home Adornments, Toilet Recipes, Dyeing and Bleach- 
 ing, Cleaning and Scouring, Varnishes and Paints, Cements, 
 •nd Miscellaneous Recipes. 
 
 [376] 
 
— -^=a THE S*rr 
 **<&— P — ....flBP"» 
 
 IIIUIH 
 
 T 
 
 i^^g^S^^ 
 
 ■4*- 
 
 OUSEHOLD COMPENDIUM. 
 
 -?~-Sc ^^> 'y|^ <^cr =g-*- 
 
 -♦ 
 
 
 DISINFECTANT FOR SICK-ROOMS.— Let 
 
 a reliable apothecary put up for you in a small 
 bottle four ounces of ninety per cent alcohol and 
 one ounce of thirty-six per cent nitric acid. 
 One-half of this mixture will disinfect a room 
 fifty feet long, thirty feet wide, and twelve feet 
 high. One large spoonful of it (one-half ounce) 
 will disinfect a large bed-room containing 1,200 
 cubic feet of air-space. Two tea-spoonfuls of it 
 (two drachms) will disinfect a bed-room nine feet 
 square, and seven and one-half feet high. A 
 tea-spoonful (one drachm) is sufficient for 300 cubic feet of 
 air-space. 
 
 The method of using the mixture is as follows: Put the 
 quantity to be used in a porcelain capsule (a tea saucer will 
 do), set a pan of warm water in the room to be disinfected ; 
 let the capsule or saucer containing the disinfectant float on 
 the surface of the warm water. The mixture in the float- 
 
 [377] 
 
378 OUR HOMES AND THE IB ADORNMENTS. 
 
 ing capsule or saucer will evaporate by the heat of the water, 
 and the vapor will effectively disinfect. Do n't try to evap- 
 orate it on a stove, over a lamp, or by a fire ; mischief would 
 result. Use exactly warm water to effect evaporation and 
 nothing else. Use only porcelain to hold the mixture, for it 
 will corrode metal. It will also spoil a good spoon. Label 
 the bottle "poison," for it would be very dangerous to take 
 it instead of medicine. The chemist will perceive that the 
 disinfecting vapor evolved is nitrate of ethyl. The alcohol 
 is in excess and so saturates the acid products of the reac- 
 tion that they are not disagreeable, while they are equally 
 effective. 
 
 The material, in the quantity necessary to use, is very 
 cheap, and the method of using it, when clearly understood, 
 is very simple. The vapor evolved, while inoffensive, de- 
 stroys infected dust and germs of putrefaction floating in 
 the air of a sick-room. It is excellent for hospitals and 
 public buildings; only, in large spaces, the quantity used 
 should be divided and evaporated in different parts of the 
 room. It is sufficient to use it once a day. 
 
 Hygienists are indebted to a French scientist, M. Ley- 
 russon, for this ingenious, cheap, and simple method of dis- 
 infecting sick-rooms, without danger or even annoyance to 
 the inmates. It has been very recently published in France. 
 
 The Best Deodorizer. — Use bromo-chloralum in the pro- 
 portion of one to eight table-spoonfuls of soft water ; dip cloths 
 in this solution and hang in the rooms; it will purify sick- 
 rooms of any foul smells. The surface of anything may be 
 purified. by washing well and then rubbing over with a 
 weakened solution of bromo-chloralum. A weak solution is 
 excellent to rinse the mouth with often, when from any 
 
HINTS ON HEALTH. 379 
 
 cause the breath is offensive. It is also an excellent wash 
 for sores and wounds that have an offensive odor. 
 
 Lime-Water. — One of the most useful agents of house- 
 hold economy, if rightly understood, is lime-water. Its 
 mode of preparation is as follows: Put a stone of fresh un- 
 slacked lime about the size of a half-peck measure into a 
 large stone jar or unpainted pail, and pour over it slowly 
 and carefully (so as not to slacken too rapidly), a tea-kettle 
 full (four gallons), of hot water, and stir thoroughly; let it 
 settle, and then stir again two or three times in twenty-four 
 hours. Then carefully bottle all that can be poured off in 
 a clear and limpid state. 
 
 It is often sold by druggists as a remedy for children's 
 summer complaints, a tea-spoonful being a dose in a cup of 
 milk, and when diarrhea is caused by acidity of the stomach, 
 it is an excellent remedy, and when ptit into milk gives no 
 unpleasant taste, but rather improves the flavor. It may 
 also be put into milk that is to be used for puddings and 
 and pies, to prevent its curdling. A little stirred into cream 
 or milk, after a hot day or night, will prevent its turning 
 when used for tea or coffee. 
 
 It is unequaled in cleansing bottles or small milk-vessels, 
 or babies' nursing bottles, as it sweetens and purifies with- 
 out leaving an unpleasant odor or flavor. A cupful, or even 
 more, mixed in the sponge of bread or cakes made over 
 night, will prevent souring. 
 
 -g=rl? p g><g? a ^=£ 
 
380 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Preserving Autumn Leaves. — These may be easily pre- 
 served and retain their natural tints, or nearly so, by either 
 of the following methods: — 
 
 As they are gathered they may be laid between the 
 leaves of a magazine or large book until it is full, and left 
 with a light weight upon them until the moisture in the 
 leaves has been absorbed. Two or three thicknesses of paper 
 should intervene between the leaves. If they are large or 
 in clusters, take newspapers, lay them on a shelf, and use 
 them as with a book. 
 
 When the leaves have become perfectly dry, dip them in 
 melted white wax into which you have put a few drops of 
 turpentine, and lay them on clean papers to dry ; this will 
 make the leaves pliable and natural, and give them suffi- 
 cient gloss. Great care should be used to make the wax 
 just hot enough, the temperature being ascertained by the 
 first leaf dipped in. Draw it gently out of the wax and 
 hold it up, — if the wax is too hot, the leaf will shrivel ; if too 
 cool, the wax will adhere in lumps. Leaves preserved in 
 this way make chaste and attractive ornaments, if grouped 
 in graceful figures. 
 
 Skeletonizing Leaves. — For the leaves, maple ones and 
 those that have a pretty shape are the best: To one pound 
 of soda-ash add two quarts of soft water. After it is all 
 dissolved by boiling, add as many leaves as your dish will 
 hold; lay them in flat, boil until the epidermis will come off 
 easily. Try a leaf in cold water, and if only the veins 
 remain they are done sufficiently. Clean them with an old 
 
HINTS ON HOME DECORATION. 381 
 
 tooth-brush, and supply the missing stems with fine wire. 
 After they are well cleaned put them in a solution of chlo- 
 ride of lime to bleach, ten cents' worth of lime is enough 
 for leaves and ferns too. Gather the young ferns and put 
 them in the solution of lime you have for your leaves, not 
 the soda-ash, only the bleaching solution. Float them on 
 stiff paper and put them in books to dry, after washing 
 thoroughly in clear water to prevent them from turning 
 yellow. Poppy-heads are very fine, also Molven balm fixed 
 in this way is lovely for winter bouquets. Add more 
 water to the leaves as it boils away. 
 
 For Ci^ystallizing Grass. — Ladies who admire beautiful 
 bouquets of grasses, will appreciate the following recipe: — 
 
 Take one and one-half pounds of rock alum, pour on 
 three pints of boiling water; when quite cool put into a 
 wide-mouthed vessel, hang in your grasses, a few at a time. 
 Do not let them get too heavy, or the stems will not support 
 them. You may 'again heat alum and add more grasses. 
 By adding a little coloring matter it will give pleasing vari- 
 ety. 
 
 To Imitate Ground-Glass Windows. — Put a piece of 
 putty weighing about six ounces into a muslin bag so as to 
 form a smooth surface. After thoroughly cleaning the 
 glass, pat it all over with the bag of putty, which being 
 forced out through the muslin, will cover the glass. Let 
 this dry hard, and varnish with shellac or white varnish. 
 If still more time and pains are taken, the glass can be 
 made to represent ground glass almost perfectly. Cut 
 from stiff paper any graceful geometric or other pattern, 
 paste it on the glass, and go over the part not covered by 
 the pattern, as above. After the putty is dry, remove the 
 
26'2 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 pattern and paste with water. This plan is especially 
 adapted to glass in doors. 
 
 Ebonizing Wood. — The following is a recipe used by 
 furniture manufacturers for the now popular style of ebon- 
 ized wood: Logwood chips 8 oz., water q. s., copperas 
 
 1 oz. Boil the logwood in one gallon of water for half an 
 hour, and add the copperas. Apply to the wood hot, giv- 
 ing two or three coats. In varnishing ebonized wood, a 
 little drop black must be added, or the varnish will give a 
 brown shade. 
 
 toilet eftc^/i/pea. 
 
 The publishers have been at no small expense in secur- 
 ing recipes for this work, and can assure their patrons that 
 they have all been tested by experience. 
 
 The toilet recipes have been furnished by a druggist of 
 long standing, many of the formulas not having been given 
 the public before. 
 
 The Hair. 
 
 Hair Gloss. — Glycerine 6 oz., cologne 2 oz. Mix and 
 use to moisten the hair. 
 
 Hair Oil. — Castor oil 6 oz., cologne spirits or alcohol 
 
 2 oz. Perfume with bergamont or other desirable perfume. 
 
 Hair Wash for Cleaning the Scalp. — Salts of Tartar I 
 oz., alcohol £ of a pt., rain-water 1 pt., rose-water | pt. Mix 
 and dissolve. If a profuse lather is desired, add more tartar. 
 
 Hair Lotion, To Prevent Hair from Falling Out. — 
 Rose-water 15 oz., glycerine 1 oz., aqua ammonia 1 dr., 
 tincture of cantharides 2 dr. Mix, and use once a week. 
 
TOILET RECIPES. 383 
 
 To Clean Hair-Brushes. — Use spirits of ammonia and 
 hot water; wash them well and shake the water out, and 
 they will be white and clean. Use no soap. 
 
 To Beautify the Hair. — 2 oz. of olive oil, 4 oz. of good 
 bay-rum, and 1 dr. of the oil of almonds. Mix and shake 
 well. It renders the hair dark and smooth. 
 
 The Teeth. 
 
 To Beautify the Teeth. — Dissolve 2 oz. of borax in three 
 pints of boiling water, and before it is cold add one tea-spoon- 
 ful of spirits of camphor ; bottle it for use. Use a tea-spoon- 
 ful of this with an equal quantity of tepid water. 
 
 Tooth Powder. — Precipitated chalk 4 oz., orris root 2 oz., 
 rose pink \ dr., oil of cloves 4 drops, oil winter-green \ dr. 
 Rub the oils with the powder, sift, and the powder is ready 
 for use. It should be kept in a bottle. 
 
 Tooth Wash. — Diluted alcohol \ pint, borax, honey, gum 
 myrrh, and red saunders, each | oz. Preparation. — Rub 
 the honey and borax together in a bowl or mortar, and 
 gradually add the alcohol ; add the myrrh and saunders, and 
 allow the whole to stand fourteen days, when it may be 
 filtered or strained. If some cologne is used instead of the 
 alcohol, it will improve the wash. 
 
 The Face and Hands. 
 
 Bloom of Roses. — Rose-water 8 oz., carmine, No. 40, 1 dr., 
 aqua ammonia h oz. Pulverize the carmine to a fine pow- 
 der, add the aqua ammonia ; and when the powder is en- 
 tirely dissolved, add the rose-water. This is a very delicate 
 and harmless cosmetic. 
 
 Bloom of Youth. — Rose-water 1 pt., oxide of bismuth 4 
 
384 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 oz. Powder the bismuth and agitate with the rose-water. 
 This wash can be colored pink by adding a little carmine. 
 
 Violet Powder. — Arrow root powdered, or wheat starch, 
 4 oz., powdered orris root 1 oz., oil of lemon 5 drops, oil of 
 cloves and bergamot, each 4 drops. Stir the oils with the 
 powder until thoroughly mixed. 
 
 Aromatic Vinegar for the hands and face. — Acetic acid 
 8 oz., oil lavender 2 dr., oil rosemary 1 dr., oil cloves 1 dr., 
 camphor gum 1 oz. Dissolve the camphor in the acetic 
 acid and add the oils. After remaining for a few days, 
 strain, and it is ready for use. 
 
 Camphor Ice. — \ oz. each of camphor gum and white 
 wax, spermaceti and sweet oil ; melt slowly the hard ingre- 
 dients, and then add the oil. 
 
 Cold Cream. — 4 oz. sweet almond oil, 2 oz. rose-water 
 2 oz. white wax, 2 oz. cocoa butter, 2 oz. spermaceti; put 
 a bowl in a pan of boiling water; cut the spermaceti, 
 white wax, and cocoa butter in small pieces; put them in 
 the bowl, also the oil and rose-water. When melted, stir 
 contents until cold. 
 
 For the Hands. — | oz. of glycerine with same amount of 
 alcohol. Mix, and add 4 oz. of rose-water. Bottle, and 
 shake well. An excellent remedy for rough or chapped 
 hands. 
 
 To Take Stains off the Skin. — For cleaning the hands 
 when stained with chemicals: Put \ lb. glauber salts, \ lb. 
 chloride of lime, and 4 oz. of water into a small wide- 
 mouthed bottle, and when required for use pour some of 
 the mixture into a saucer and rub it well over the hands 
 with a brush or coarse towl, and wash them in warm water. 
 
 Acacia Sachet. — Exquisite and cheap perfume for the 
 glove box or drawer: — 
 
VARNISHES. 385 
 
 Cassia buds and orris root, 2 oz. of each, in moderately 
 fine powder. Sew up in a bag of silk. 
 
 Pot-Pourri Sachet Powder. — Rose and lavender leaves, 2 
 oz„ each, in coarse powder, coarse powdered orris root 1 oz., 
 cloves, cinnamon, and allspice, each \ oz. Mix well, and 
 put into bags of fancy colored silk, or into envelopes. 
 
 To Varnish Furniture. — First make the work quite 
 clean ; then fill up all knots or blemishes with cement of the 
 same color; see that the brush is clean, and free from loose 
 hairs; then dip the brush in the varnish, stroke it along the 
 wire raised across the top of the varnish pot, and give the 
 work a thin and regular coat; soon after that another, and 
 another, always taking care not to pass the brush twice in 
 the same place; let it stand to dry in a moderately warm 
 place, that the varnish may not chill. When the work has 
 had about six or seven coats, let it get quite hard (which 
 prove by pressing the knuckles on it; if it leaves a mark, it 
 is not hard enough) ; then with the first three fingers of the 
 hand rub the varnish till it chafes, and proceed over that 
 part of the work intended to be polished, in order to take 
 out all the streaks or partial lumps made by the brush ; then 
 give it another coat, and let it stand a day or two to harden. 
 Varnish for Common Work.— This varnish is intended 
 for protecting surfaces against atmospheric exposure. It 
 has been used for coating wood and iron work with great 
 advantage. Take 3 lbs. of resin and powder it, place it in 
 a tin can, and add 2| pints of spirits of turpentine, shake 
 well, and let it stand, shaking it occasionally for a day or 
 
 25 
 
386 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 two. Then add 5 qts. of boiled oil, shake well together, 
 and allow it to stand in a warm room till clear. The clear 
 portion is decanted and used, or reduced with spirits of tur- 
 pentine until of the proper consistency. 
 
 Table Varnish. — Oil of turpentine 1 lb., beeswax 2 
 oz., colophony 1 dr. Or, dammar resin 1 lb., spirits of tur- 
 pentine 2 lbs., camphor 200 grains. Digest the mixture 
 for twenty-four hours. The decanted portion is fit for im- 
 mediate use. 
 
 Turpentine Varnish. — To 1 pt. of spirits of turpentine 
 add 10 oz. clear resin pounded; put it in a tin can on a 
 stove, and let it boil for half an hour. When the resin is all 
 dissolved, let it cool, and it is ready for use. 
 
 Varnishes for Furniture. — Shellac li lbs., naphtha 1 
 gal. ; dissolve, and it is ready without filtering. 
 
 Another recipe is, shellac 12 oz., copal 3 oz. (or an equiv- 
 alent of varnish) ; dissolve in 1 gallon of naphtha. 
 
 Common Varnish. — Digest shellac 1 part, with alcohol 
 7 or 8 parts. 
 
 White Furniture Varnish. — White-wax 6 oz., oil of 
 turpentine 1 pint ; dissolve by gentle heat, taking care not 
 to set the turpentine on fire. Apply in usual way. 
 
 Furniture Polish. — Melt three or four pieces of sanda- 
 rach, each of the size of a walnut, add 1 pint of boiled oil, 
 and boil together for 1 hour. While cooling add 1 dr. of 
 Venice turpentine, and if too thick a little oil of turpentine 
 also. Apply this all over the furniture, and after some 
 hours rub it off ; rub the furniture daily, without applying 
 fresh varnish, except about once in two months. Water 
 does not injure this polish, and any stain or scratch may be 
 again covered, which cannot be done with French polish. 
 
VARNISHES AND POLISH. 387 
 
 French Polish. — Gum shellac 2 oz., gum arabic h oz., 
 gum copal \ oz. Powder, and .sift through a piece of mus- 
 lin ; put them in a closely corked bottle with 2 pts. spirits of 
 wine, in a very warm situation, shaking every day till the 
 gums are dissolved; then strain through muslin and cork 
 for use. 
 
 Varnish for Water-proof Goods. — Let a £ lb. of India- 
 rubber, in small pieces, soften in \ lb. of oil of turpentine, 
 then add 2 lbs. of boiled oil, and boil for 2 hours over a slow 
 fire. "When dissolved, add 6 lbs. of boiled linseed oil, and 1 
 lb. of litharge, and boil until an even liquid is obtained. 
 Apply warm. 
 
 Varnish for Boots and Shoes. — Take a pint of linseed 
 oil, with £ lb. of mutton suet, the same quantity of bees- wax, 
 and a small piece of resin. Boil all this in a pipkin together, 
 and use it when milk- warm with a hair brush ; two appli- 
 cations will make the articles water-proof. 
 
 Beautiful Bronze, Applicable to all Metals. — Take 10 
 parts aniline red (fuchsine), and 5 of aniline purple, and 
 dissolve in 100 parts of 95 per cent alcohol, taking care to 
 help the solution by placing the vessel in a sand or water 
 bath. As soon as the solution is effected, 5 parts of benzole 
 acid are added, and the whole is boiled from 5 to 10 min- 
 utes until the greenish color of the mixture is transformed 
 into a fine light-colored brilliant bronze. Apply with a 
 brush. 
 
 Golden Varnish. — Pulverize 1 drachm of saffron and £ 
 drachm of dragon's blood, and put them into 1 pint spirits 
 of wine. Add 2 oz. of gum shellac and 5 drachms of soco- 
 trine aloes. Dissolve the whole by gentle heat. Yellow 
 painted work, varnished with this mixture, will appear al- 
 most equal to gold. 
 
388 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Varnish for Iron-work. — Dissolve, in about 2 lbs. of tar 
 oil, \ lb. of asphaltum, and a like quantity of pounded resin, 
 mix hot in an iron kettle, care being taken to prevent any 
 contact with the flame. When cold, the varnish is ready 
 for use. This varnish is for out-door wood and iron work. 
 
 Imitation Nickel Plating. — Coarse rasped granulated 
 zinc is boiled for some time in a mixture of 3 parts by 
 weight of sal ammoniac, and 10 of water, the objects im- 
 mersed and stirred up with a zinc rod. The deposit is sil- 
 very bright, and resists mechanical action as well as a coat- 
 ing of nickel. The process can be recommended for goods 
 which are meant for a second coating of some other metal, 
 since any other is easily deposited on zinc. 
 
 Interesting to Nicftel Platers. — A simple process of 
 nickel plating by boiling has been described by Dr. Kaiser. 
 A bath of pure granulated tin tartar and water is prepared, 
 and after being heated to the boiling point, has added to it 
 a small quantity of pure red-hot nickel oxide. A portion 
 of the nickel will soon dissolve and give a green color to the 
 liquid over the grains of tin. Articles pf copper or brass 
 plunged into this bath acquire in a few minutes a bright 
 metallic coating of almost pure nickel. If a little carbonate 
 or tartrate of cobalt is added to the bath, a bluish shade, 
 either light or dark, may be given to the coating, which be- 
 comes very brilliant when it is properly polished with chalk 
 or dry sawdust. 
 
 After the ground is fairly closed up by frost for the winter, 
 it will be an excellent time to paint the house, barn, and other 
 farm buildings, and all the farm implements and carriages 
 
REPAINTING CARRIAGES. 389 
 
 that need it. Paint spread at this season of the year makes 
 a durable covering, and there are no flies or other insects to 
 spoildts looks after being spread, as during the hot days of 
 summer. 
 
 If the carriages and farm implements can be stored in a 
 clean apartment, free from wind and dust, painting may go 
 on uninterruptedly by doing the outside work in fair 
 weather and the carriage work during rainy days. 
 
 Repainting Carriages. — Previous to repainting or re- 
 varnishing any old coach-work, it is necessary first to wash 
 the work quite clean, and also to rub down the surface with 
 a wet cloth and ground pumice powder, until it appears 
 quite dead, or without gloss. The work should then be 
 washed, and dried with a wash-leather; after which it is fit 
 to receive either paint or varnish. Old work is frequently 
 dirty, greasy, and strongly impregnated with various exha- 
 lations, very injurious to paint- work and varnish, from its 
 being kept shut up in cold, damp coach-houses, which have 
 often doors or passages communicating with stables, latrines, 
 and so on. If therefore it be repainted or revarnished, with- 
 out having been well washed and rubbed down, it seldom or 
 never dries properly, owing to the exhalations with which 
 the surface is in general incrusted ; and should the surface 
 be even clear from grease, no paint or varnish will adhere, 
 or can be well applied, on the old glossy surface, without its 
 having been first rubbed down with the pumice powder and 
 water, as that entirely removes all stains, grease, and gloss 
 from the surface. Paint or varnish will then adhere to the 
 old ground, and can be easily worked and extended with 
 the brush, without the color cissing, as it is termed. Var- 
 nish is very apt to ciss on old work, if the second coat is not 
 
390 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 applied as soon as the first coat is hard enough to bear 
 varnishing. 
 
 Economical Paint. — Skim-milk 2 qts., fresh-slacked 
 lime 8 oz., linseed oil 6 oz., white Burgundy pitch 2 oz., 
 Spanish white 3 lbs. The lime to be slaked in water ex- 
 posed to the air, mixed in one-fourth of the milk ; the oil in 
 which the pitch is previously dissolved, to be added a little 
 at a time; then the rest of the milk, and afterward the 
 Spanish white. This quantity is sufficient for 27 sq. yds., 
 two coats. 
 
 To Remove Old Paint. — Wet the place with naphtha, 
 repeating as often as is required; but frequently one appli- 
 cation will dissolve the paint. As soon as it is softened, rub 
 the surface clean. Chloroform, mixed with a small quan- 
 tity of spirit ammonia, composed of strong ammoniac, has 
 been employed very successfully to remove the stains of dry 
 paint from wood, silk, and other substances. 
 
 To Destroy Paint. — Mix 1 part by weight of potash 
 with 3 parts quick-lime, by slaking the lime in water and 
 then adding the potash, making the mixture about the con- 
 sistency of paint. Lay the above over the whole of the 
 work required to be cleaned, with an old brush ; let it re- 
 main 14 or 16 hours, when the paint can be easily scraped 
 off. 
 
 Fire-proofing Shingle Roofs. — A wash composed of lime, 
 salt, and fine sand or wood-ashes, put on in the ordinary 
 way of whitewash, renders a shingle roof fifty-fold more safe 
 against fire from falling cinders, in case of fire in the vi- 
 cinity. It has also a preserving influence against the effect 
 of the weather; the older and more weather-beaten the 
 shingles, the more benefit derived. Such shingles are gen- 
 
DIFFERENT KINDS OF PAINT. 301 
 
 erally more or less warped, rough, and cracked. The appli- 
 cation of wash, by washing the upper surface, restores them 
 to their original or firm form, thereby closing the space be- 
 tween the shingles ; and the lime and sand, by filling up the 
 cracks, prevent its warping. By the addition of a small 
 quantity of lamp-black, the wash may be made of the same 
 color as old shingles, and thus the offensive glare of a white- 
 washed roof is removed. 
 
 Paint for Blackboards in Schools. — Common glue 4 
 oz., flour of emery 3 oz., and just lamp-black enough to 
 give an inky color to the preparation. Dissolve the glue in 
 | qt. of warm water, put in the lamp-black and emery, stir 
 till there are no lumps, then apply to the board with a 
 woolen rag smoothly rolled. Three coats are amply sufficient. 
 
 Compound, Fire-proof Iron Paint. — Finely pulverized 
 iron fillings 1 part, brick-dust 1 part, and ashes 1 part. 
 Pour over them glue-water or size, set the whole near the 
 fire, and when warm, stir them well together. With this 
 paint cover all the wood- work which may be in danger; 
 when dry, give a second coat, and the wood will be rendered 
 incombustible. 
 
 Remedy for Damp Walls. — f lb. of mottled soap to 1 
 gal. of water. This composition to be laid over the brick- 
 work steadily and carefully with a large flat brush, so as 
 not to form a froth or lather on the surface. The wash should 
 remain 24 hours, to become dry. Mix \ lb. of alum with 
 4 gals, of water, leave it to stand for 24 hours, and then 
 apply it in the same manner over the coating of soap. Let 
 this be done in dry weather. 
 
 Darkening Glass.— The following, if neatly done, ren- 
 ders the glass obscure yet diaphanous: Rub up, as for oil- 
 
392 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 colors, a sufficient quantity of sugar of lead with a little 
 boiled linseed oil, and distribute this uniformly over the 
 pane, from the end of a hog-hair tool, by a dabbing, jerking 
 motion, until the appearance of ground glass is obtained. 
 It may be ornamented, when perfectly hard, by delineating 
 the pattern with a strong solution of caustic potash, giving 
 it such time to act as experience dictates, and then expedi- 
 tiously wiping out the portion it is necessary to remove. 
 
 To Prevent Iron Rusting. — Give it a coat of linseed 
 oil and whiting, mixed together in the form of a paste. It 
 is easily removed and will preserve iron from rusting for 
 years. 
 
 S-tkM444/H<* ^iVoob^. 
 
 There is little trouble in preparing the stain, and its 
 application differs but slightly from painting. 
 
 ., Directions for Staining. — In preparing any of the 
 tinctures, it is of importance to powder or mash all the dry 
 stuffs previous to dissolving or macerating them, and to 
 purify all the liquids by filtration before use. It will be 
 better for inexperienced hands to coat twice or three times 
 with a weak stain than only once with a very strong one, 
 as by adopting the first mode a particular tint may be grad- 
 ually effected, whereas, by pursuing the latter course, an 
 irremediable discolorization may be the result. Coarse 
 pieces of carving, spongy end, and cross-grained woods, 
 should be previously prepared for the reception of stain; 
 this is best done by putting on a thin layer of varnish, 
 letting it dry, and then sand-papering it completely off 
 *>gain. Fine work merely requires to be oiled and slightly 
 
STAINING WOODS. 393 
 
 rubbed with the finest sand-paper. Thus prepared, the 
 woody fiber is enabled to take on the stain more regularly, 
 and to attain a high degree of smoothness. Stains may be 
 applied with a good brush or with a woolen rag or sponge. 
 
 To Stain Walnut. — Use burnt umber and linseed oil, 
 apply with a brush, and when dry sand-paper again and 
 apply more stain. When the desired stain is made, varnish. 
 A quick stain may be made by using water or thin glue in- 
 stead of oil. This stain is not durable. 
 
 Another. — Water 1 qt., washing soda 1| oz., Vandyke 
 brown 2| oz., bichromate of potash \ oz. Boil for 10 
 minutes, and apply with a brush, in either a hot or cold stain. 
 
 Black Stain. — Boil 1 lb. of logwood in 4 qts. of water, 
 add a double handful of walnut peel or shells ; boil it up 
 again, take out the chips, add a pint of the best vinegar, 
 and it will be fit for use ; apply it boiling. This will be 
 improved, if, when dry, a solution of green copperas, an 
 ounce to a quart of water, is applied hot over the first stain. 
 
 Black Stains for Immediate Use. — Boil \ lb. of chip 
 logwood in 2 qts. of water, add 1 oz. of pearlash, and apply it 
 hot to the work with a brush. Then take | lb. of logwood, 
 boil it as before in 2 qts. of water, and add \ oz. of verdigris 
 and \ oz. of copperas ; strain it off, put in \ lb. of rusty steel 
 filings ; with this go over the work a second time. 
 
 Ebony Stains. — Stain work with the black stain, adding 
 powdered nutgall to the logwood and copperas solution, dry, 
 rub down well, oil, then use French polish made tolerably 
 dark with indigo, or finely-powdered stone-blue. 
 
 Cherry Stain. — Soft water 3 qts., annotto 4 oz. ; boil 
 in a copper kettle till the annotto is dissolved, put in a piece 
 of potash the size of a walnut ; simmer over the fire about 
 half an hour longer, and it is ready to bottle for use. 
 
394 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 To Clean Pearls. — Soak them in hot water in which 
 bran has been boiled, with a little salts of tartar and alum, 
 rubbing gently between the hands, when the heat will admit 
 of it; when the water is cold, renew the application till any 
 discoloration is removed ; rinse in warm water. Lay them 
 on white paper in a dark place to cool. 
 
 To Clean Marble, Etc. — Mix up a quantity of the 
 strongest soap-lees with quick-lime, to the consistency of 
 milk, and lay it on the stone for twenty-four hours. Clean 
 it, and it will appear as new. This may be improved by 
 rubbing afterward with fine putty powder on olive-oil. 
 
 To Clean Oil-Paintings. — Wash with a sponge or a 
 soft leather and water, and dry with a silk handkerchief. 
 "When the picture is very dirty, take it out of its frame, pro- 
 cure a clean towel, and making it quite wet, lay it on the 
 face of the picture, sprinkling it from time to time with 
 clear, soft water. Let it remain wet for two or three days. 
 Take the cloth off and renew it with a fresh one. After 
 wiping the picture with a clean wet sponge, repeat the proc- 
 ess till all the dirt is soaked out; then wash it well with a 
 soft sponge, let it become quite dry, and rub it with some 
 clear nut or linseed oil. Spirits of wine and turpentine may 
 be used to dissolve the hard old varnish, but they will attack 
 the paint as well as the varnish if the further action of the 
 spirits is not stopped at the proper time by using water freely. 
 
 To Clean Plate. — Take an ounce each of cream of 
 tartar, muriate of soda, and alum, and boil in a gallon or 
 more of water. After the plate is taken out and rubbed 
 
CLEANING AND SCO URING. 395 
 
 dry, it puts on a beautiful silvery whiteness. Powdered 
 magnesia may be used dry for articles slightly tarnished, 
 but if very dirty it must be used first wet and then dry. 
 
 To Clean Brass or Copper. — Take 1 oz. of oxalic acid, 
 6 oz. rotten-stone, £ oz. gum arabic, all in powder, 1 oz. 
 sweet oil, and sufficient water to make a paste. Apply a 
 small portion, and rub dry with a flannel or leather. 
 
 Silver Plate. — Mix together 8 oz. prepared chalk, 2 oz. 
 turpentine, 1 oz. alcohol, 4 dr. spirits of camphor, and 2 dr. 
 liquor of ammonia. Apply this mixture to the article 
 with a sponge, and allow to dry before polishing. 
 
 Silver Cleaning Liquid. — Prepared chalk 8 oz., tur- 
 pentine 2 oz., alcohol 1 oz., spirits of camphor 4 dr., liq- 
 uor of ammonia 2 dr. Apply with a sponge, and allow to 
 dry before polishing. Or use a solution of cyanide of po- 
 tassium, 12 oz. cyanide to 1 qt. water; immerse the silver, 
 brush it with a stiff brush until clean, wash and dry. 
 
 Cleaning Hats. — The stains of grease and paint may be 
 removed from fur hats by means of turpentine; and if the 
 turpentine leaves a mark, finish with a little spirits of wine. 
 
 Cleaning Jewelry. — Common jewelry may be effectually 
 cleaned by washing with soap and warm water, rinsing in 
 cold water, dipping in spirits of any kind, and drying in 
 warm boxwood sawdust. Good jewelry only needs wash- 
 ing with soap and water, and polishing with rouge and a 
 chamois leather. 
 
 Cleaning Engravings. — Put the engraving on a smooth 
 board, cover it thinly with common salt, finely pounded; 
 squeeze lemon -juice upon the salt so as to dissolve a consid- 
 erable portion of it ; elevate one end of the board, so that it 
 may form an angle of about 45° or 50° with the horizon. 
 
396 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Pour on the engraving boiling water from a tea-kettle, 
 until the salt and lemon -juice are all washed off; the engrav- 
 ing will then be perfectly clean, and free from stains. It 
 must be dried on the board, or on some smooth surface, 
 gradually. If dried by the fire or the sun, it will be tinged 
 with a yellow color. 
 
 Polishing Wood Carving. — Take a piece of wadding, 
 soft and pliable, and on it drop a few drops of white or trans- 
 parent polish or French polish, according to the color of the 
 wood. Wrap the wetted wadding up in a piece of old linen, 
 forming it into a pad ; and hold it by the surplus linen ; 
 then touch with one or two drops of linseed oil. Pass 
 the pad gently over the parts to be polished, working it 
 round in small circles, occasionally re- wetting the wadding 
 in polish, and the pad with a drop or so of oil. The object 
 of the oil is merely to cause the pad to run over the wood 
 easily without sticking, therefore as little as possible should 
 be used, as it tends to deaden the polish to a certain extent. 
 
 Where a carving is to be polished after having been 
 varnished, the same process is necessary, but it can only be 
 applied to the plainer portions of the work. Plane surfaces 
 must be made perfectly smooth with glass paper before pol- 
 ishing, as every scratch or mark will show twice as much 
 after the operation. When the polish is first rubbed on the 
 wood, it is called the bodying in; it will sink into the wood 
 and not give much glaze. It must, when dry, have another 
 body rubbed on, and a third generally finishes it; but if 
 not, the operation must be repeated. Just before the task 
 is completed, greasy smears will show themselves ; these will 
 disappear by continuing the gentle rubbing without oiling 
 the pad. 
 
CLEANING AND SCOURING. 397 
 
 Polishing Mother-of- Pearl. — Go over it with puinice- 
 stone finely powdered and washed to .separate the impurities 
 and dirt, with which polish it very smooth; then apply 
 putty powder and water by a rubber, which will produce a 
 fine gloss and good color. 
 
 Floors. — Take some clean, sifted, white or silver sand, 
 and scatter it on the floor. Dissolve one pound of American 
 potash or pearlash, in one pint of water, and sprinkle the 
 sand with this solution. Have a pail of very hot water, 
 and scrub the boards lengthwise with a hard brush, 
 using the mottled soap. Change the water frequently. 
 This is the best way to scour and whiten boards. The pot- 
 ash, if applied as directed, will take out all stains. 
 
 Ink stains may be removed from boards by using either 
 strong vinegar or salts of lemon. 
 
 Cleaning House Paint. — Old paint-work should be 
 first well dusted, then cleaned by washing with a ley of 
 pearlash and water; it is sometimes necessary, after the 
 washing, to give a coat of weak size, and as soon as it is 
 dry, apply varnish, using copal for light work, and carriage 
 for dark. Some handrails, doors, and so on, are so saturated 
 with grease, that no washing will remove it. When this is 
 the case, brush the fold parts over with strong fresh-made 
 lime- wash, let that dry, then rub it off; if the grease is not 
 removed, repeat the lime-washing, until the grease is thor- 
 oughly drawn out; wash the lime off clean, and afterward 
 apply the sizing, and lastly the varnish. 
 
 To Wash Silver Ware. — Never use a particle of soap on 
 your silver ware, as it dulls the luster, giving the article 
 more the appearance of pewter than silver. When it wants 
 cleaning, rub it with a piece of soft leather and prepared 
 
398 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 chalk, the latter made into a kind of paste with pure water, 
 for the reason that water not pure might contain gritty 
 particles. 
 
 Cleaning Gilt Frames. — Gilt frames may be cleaned 
 by simply washing them with a small sponge, wet with 
 urine, hot spirits of wine, or oil of turpentine, not too 
 wet, but sufficiently to take off the dirt and fly marks. 
 They should not be afterward wiped, but left to dry of 
 themselvas. 
 
 Scouring Articles of Dress. — Among the spots which 
 alter the color fixed upon stuffs, some are caused by a sub- 
 stance which may be described as simple, and others by a sub- 
 stance which results from the combination of two or more 
 bodies, that may act separately or together upon the stuff, 
 and which may therefore be called compound. 
 
 C^eai44/vta eFa&t/lco. 
 
 Oils and fats are the substances which form the greater 
 part of simple stains. They give a deep shade to the ground 
 of the cloth ; they continue to spread for several days ; they 
 attract the dust, and retain it so strongly that it is not 
 removable by the brush; and they eventually render the 
 stain lighter colored, upon a dark ground, and of a dis- 
 agreeable gray tint upon a pale or light ground. 
 
 The general principle of cleansing all spots consists in 
 applying to them a substance with a stronger affinity for 
 the matter composing them than this has for the cloth, and 
 which shall render them soluble in some liquid menstruum, 
 such as water, spirits, naphtha, or oil of turpentine. Alkalies 
 are the most powerful solvents of grease ; but they act too 
 
REMOVING STAINS. 309 
 
 strongly upon silk and wool, as well as change too power- 
 fully the colors of dyed stuffs, to be safely applicable in re- 
 moving stains. The best substances for this purpose are: 
 1. Soap. 2. Chalk, fuller's- earth, soap-stone, or French chalk. 
 These should be mixed with a little water, made into a 
 thin paste, spread upon the stain, and allowed to dry. The 
 spot requires now to be merely brushed. 3. The volatile oil of 
 turpentine will take out only recent stains; for which pur- 
 pose it ought to be previously purified by distillation over 
 quick-lime. Wax, resin, turpentine, pitch, and all resinous 
 bodies in general, form stains of greater or less adhesion, 
 which may be dissolved out by pure alcohol. 4. Oxalic acid 
 removes iron rust almost instantly. 
 
 A stain of iron rust and grease requires two distinct 
 operations, one to remove the grease and the other the rust, 
 which can be done as indicated in preceding directions. 
 
 Recent Ink Stains — may be removed by washing in pure 
 water, then in soapy water, and lastly with lemon-juice; but 
 if the stain be old, use oxalic acid, which may be applied in 
 powder, well rubbed on, and washed off with pure water. 
 
 Ox-gall and ydlk of egg have the property of dissolving 
 fatty bodies without perceptibly affecting the texture or 
 colors of cloth, and may therefore be employed with ad- 
 vantage. The ox-gall should be purified, to prevent its 
 greenish tint from degrading the brilliancy of dyed stuffs, 
 or the purity of whites. Thus prepared it is the most prec- 
 ious of all substances known for removing these kinds of 
 stains. 
 
 Grease from Cloth. — Grease can be removed from cloth 
 by a paste of fuller's-earth and turpentine. This should be 
 rubbed on the fabric until the turpentine has evaporated and 
 
400 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 a white powder produced. The latter can be brushed off, 
 and the grease will have disappeared. 
 
 Another. — Benzine, alcohol, ether, equal parts; mix, 
 apply with a sponge (patting the spot), put a piece of blot- 
 ting paper on each side and iron with a hot flat-iron. The 
 ingredients are very inflammable ; use great care not to take 
 them too near a fire. 
 
 To Destroy the Effects of Acid on Clothes. — Dampen as 
 soon as possible, after exposure to the acid, with spirits of 
 ammonia. It will destroy the effect immediately. 
 
 Fruit Stains. — First rub the spot on each side with hard 
 soap, and then lay on a thick mixture of starch and cold 
 water. Rub this mixture of starch well into the spot, and 
 afterward expose it to the sun and air. If the stain has 
 not disappeared at the end of three or four days, repeat the 
 process. 
 
 Grease Spots. — Dissolve one ounce of pearlash in one pint 
 of water, and to this solution add a lemon cut into thin 
 slices. Mix well, and keep the mixture in a warm state for 
 two days, then strain and bottle the clear liquid for use. A 
 small quantity of this mixture poured on stains occasioned 
 by either grease, oil, or pitch, will speedily remove them. 
 Afterward wash in clear water. 
 
 Ink Stains. — Strain the linen tightly over a basin con- 
 taining boiling water, and wet the stain with water. Then 
 carefully let fall on the spot a few drops of salts of lemon, or 
 diluted spirits of salt; use for this purpose a feather, or small 
 camel's-hair pencil. When the stain has been removed, 
 wash carefully in cold water. 
 
 Iron-mold stains may also be removed by this method. 
 
 To Wash Lace. — Cover an ordinary wine bottle with 
 
TO REVIVE FURS AND RENOVATE SILK. 4()1 
 
 fine flannel, stitching it firmly round the bottle. Tack one 
 end of the lace to the flannel, then roll it very smoothly 
 round the bottle, and tack down the other end, then cover 
 with a piece of very fine flannel or muslin. Now rub it 
 gently with a strong soap liquor, and if the lace is very 
 much discolored or dirty, fill the bottle with hot water, and 
 place it in a kettle or saucepan of suds and boil it for a few 
 minutes, then place the bottle under a tap of running water 
 to rinse out the soap. Make some strong starch, and melt 
 in it a piece of white wax and a little loaf sugar. Plunge 
 the bottle two or three times into this and squeeze out the 
 superfluous starch with the hands; then dip the bottle in 
 cold water, remove the outer covering from the lace, fill the 
 bottle with hot water, and stand it in the sun to dry the 
 lace. When nearly dry take it very carefully off the bottle, 
 and pick it out with the fingers. Then lay it in a cool place 
 to dry thoroughly. 
 
 Reviving Furs. — Thoroughly sprinkle every part with 
 hot flour and sand, and brush well with a hard brush. Then 
 beat with a cane, comb it smooth with a wet comb, and 
 press carefully with a warm iron. For ermine use plaster-of- 
 Paris instead of flour and sand, and treat in the same way. 
 
 To Renovate Silk. — Potato-water is good to clean all 
 colors and kinds; grate the potatoes into cold spring water, 
 say a large potato to every quart of water, of which five or 
 six will do for a couple of dresses. If for very light silk, 
 pare the potatoes; if for dark, merely wash them clean. 
 The pan of water must not be stirred in the least for forty- 
 eight hours ; then, very slowly and steadily pour off the clear 
 liquor, but not a particle of the sediment, into a large open 
 vessel, dip the pieces of silk into this liquid up and down a 
 
 26 
 
402 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 few times, without creasing them ; then wipe them on a flat 
 table with a clean towel, first one side, then the other. It 
 is as well to hang each one as dipped upon a line to allow 
 the drops to drain off a little before wiping. Have a damp 
 cloth to cover them in till all is done ; then iron one way, on 
 the soiled side. 
 
 To Wash Feathers.— Dissolve four ounces of white soap 
 in two quarts of boiling water; put it into a large basin or 
 small pan, and beat to a strong lather with a wire egg-beater 
 or a small bundle of birch twigs; use while warm. Hold the 
 feather by the quill with the left hand, dip it into the soap 
 liquor and squeeze it through the right hand, using a moderate 
 degree of pressure. Continue this operation until the feather 
 is perfectly clean and white, using a second lot of soap 
 liquor if necessary. Rinse in clean hot water to take out 
 the soap, and afterward in cold water in which a small 
 quantity of blue has been dissolved. Shake well, and dry 
 before a moderate fire, shaking it occasionally that it may 
 look full and soft when dried. Before it is quite dry curl 
 each fibre separately with a blunt knife or ivory paper- 
 folder. 
 
 To Wash Carpets. — Spread the carpet where you can 
 use a brush, take Irish potatoes and scrape them into a pail 
 or tub of water and let them stand over night, using one 
 peck to clean a large carpet ; two pails of water is sufficient 
 to let them stand in, and you can add more when ready to 
 use ; add two ounces of beef gall and use with a brush, as to 
 scrub a floor; the particles of potato will help cleanse, and 
 when dry, brush with a broom or stiff brush. 
 
 Excellent Family Soap. — 1 box concentrated lye, 5 
 lbs. grease, 1 lb. resin, 1-J- gals, soft water; make in an 
 
RECIPES FOR CEMENTS. 403 
 
 iron pot. When the water boils, put in the lye; when 
 this is dissolved, add the grease ; stir till all Is melted, then 
 add one pound of resin gradually, and boil for an hour and 
 a half; keep stirring with a stick, and add hot water to keep 
 up the original quantity, pour into wet tin pans, and let it 
 sstand for twenty-four hours. Cut into bars, and keep in a 
 dry, warm place for a month. 
 
 Washing Fluid. — 9 table-spoonfuls unslackcd lime, 2 lbs. 
 sal-soda, 4 qts. water; let this simmer half an hour, then 
 bottle up. Take a small tea-cupful to a boiler of water. 
 
 Another. — 1 lb. sal-soda, 1 lb. potash, each dissolved in 1 
 gal. water (separately) ; mix together and bottle. 
 
 Cheap Filter. — Take a common flower-pot as large as 
 possible, plug the hole in the bottom with a piece of sponge, 
 then put a layer of powdered charcoal about an inch thick, 
 the same of clean sand, and a layer of small stones and coarse 
 gravel about two inches thick. Set the pot where the water 
 can drop off the sponge, and pour in water gently. In a few 
 minutes the water will find its way through the sand and 
 charcoal and drop into the vessel placed below, clear and 
 free from impurities. 
 
 How to Use Cements. — Take as small a quantity of the 
 cement as possible, and bring the cement itself into intimate 
 contact with the surfaces to be united. If glue is employed, 
 the surface should be made so warm that the melted glue is 
 not chilled before it has time to effect a thorough adhesion. 
 Cements that are used in a fused state, as resin or shellac, 
 will not adhere unless the parts to be joined are heated to 
 
404 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 the fusing point of the cement. Sealing-wax, or ordinary 
 electrical cement, is a good agent for uniting metal to glass 
 or stone, provided the masses to be united are made so hot 
 as to fuse the cement, but if the cement is applied to them 
 while they are cold it will not stick at all. This fact is well 
 known to the itinerant vendors of cement for uniting earth- 
 enware. By heating two pieces of china or earthenware so 
 that 'they will fuse shellac, they are able to smear them with 
 a little of this gum, and join the pieces so that they will 
 rather break at any other part than along the line of union. 
 
 But although people constantly see the operation per- 
 formed, and buy liberally of the cement, it will be found in 
 nine cases out of ten that the cement proves worthless in the 
 hands of the purchasers, simply because they do not know 
 how to use it. They are afraid to heat a delicate glass or 
 porcelain vessel to a sufficient degree, or they are apt to use 
 too much of the material, and the result is a failure. 
 
 Cement for Ivory or Mother-of- Pearl. — Dissolve 1 part 
 of isinglass and 2 of white glue in 30 parts of water, strain 
 and evaporate to 6 parts, add one-thirtieth part of gum 
 mastic, dissolved in one-half part of alcohol, add 1 part 
 of white zinc. When required to use, warm and shake up. 
 
 Cement for Jet. — Shellac is generally used for jet arti- 
 cles. The broken edges should be heated before applying 
 the shellac. Should the joint be in sight, it will be rendered 
 the same color as the jet itself by smoking the shellac before 
 applying it. 
 
 Cheap India-Rubber Cement, — Cut virgin or native 
 India-rubber with a wet knife into the thinest possible slices, 
 and with shears divide these into threads as fine as fine 
 yarn. Put a small quantity of the shreds, (say one- tenth 
 
EECIPES FOB CEMENTS. 405 
 
 or less of the capacity of the bottle), into a wide-inouthed 
 bottle, and fill it three-quarters full with benzine of good 
 quality perfectly free from oil. The rubber will swell up 
 almost immediately, and in a few days, especially if often 
 shaken, assume the consistency of honey. If it inclines to 
 remain in undissolved masses, more benzine must be added, 
 but if too thin and watery it needs more rubber. A piece 
 of solid rubber the size of a walnut will make a pint of 
 cement. It dries in a few minutes, and by using three coats 
 in the usual manner, will unite leather straps, patches, rubber 
 soles, backs of books, etc., with exceeding firmness. 
 
 Cement for Petroleum Lamps. — Boil 3 parts of resin 
 with 1 part of caustic soda and 5 of water. The composi- 
 tion is then mixed with half its weight of plaster-of- Paris, 
 and sets firmly in one-half to three-fourths of an hour. It 
 is of great adhesive power, not permeable to petroleum, a 
 slow conductor of heat, and but superficially attacked by 
 hot water. 
 
 Cement to Mend Iron Pots and Pans. — Take 2 parts 
 of sulphur, and 1 part, by weight, of fine black-lead, put 
 the sulphur in an old iron pan, holding it over the fire until 
 it begins to melt ; then add the lead, stir well until all is 
 mixed and melted, then pour out on an iron plate, or smooth 
 stone. When cool, break into small pieces. A sufficient 
 quantity of this compound being placed upon the crack of 
 the iron pot to be mended, can be soldered by a hot iron in 
 the same way a tinsmith solders his sheets. If there is a 
 small hole in the pot, drive a copper rivet into it and then 
 solder over it with this cement. 
 
 London Cement. — Boil a piece of old cheese three times 
 in water, each time allowing the water to evaporate. Take 
 
406 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 the paste thus left and thoroughly incorporate with dry 
 quick-lime. It willl mend glass, wood, china, etc., very 
 effectually. 
 
 Cement for Wood Vessels Required to be Water- 
 Tight. — Take lime-clay and oxide of iron, seperately cal- 
 cined and reduced to fine poAvder, then intimately mixed, 
 kept in a close vessel, and mixed with the requisite quantity 
 of water when used. 
 
 Cement for Leather. — A good cement for splicing leather 
 for straps is gutta-percha dissolved in bisulphide of carbon, 
 until it is of the, thickness of molasses; the parts to be 
 cemented must first be well thinned down, then pour a small 
 quantity of the cement on both ends, spreading it well so as 
 to fill the pores of the leather, warm the parts over a fire for 
 about half a minute, apply them quickly together and ham- 
 mer well. The bottle containing the cement should be 
 tightly corked and kept in a cool place. 
 
 Marble Cement. — Take plaster-of-Paris and soak it in 
 a saturated solution of alum, then bake in an oven, the same 
 as gypsum is baked to make it plaster-of-Paris ; after which 
 grind the mixture to powder. It is then used as wanted, 
 being mixed up with water like plaster and applied. It sets 
 into a very hard composition capable of taking a very high 
 polish, and may be mixed with various coloring minerals to 
 produce a cement of any color capable of imitating marble. 
 This cement is also used for attaching glass to metal. 
 
 Chinese Cement. — Finest pale orange shellac, broken 
 small, 4 oz., rectified spirit, the strongest, 3 oz., digest to- 
 gether in a corked bottle in a warm place until dissolved ; it 
 should have the consistency of molasses. It is used for wood, 
 glass, ivory, jewelry, and all fancy works. 
 
RECIPES FOR CEMENTS. 407 
 
 Cements for Cracks in Wood. — Make a paste of slacked 
 lime 1 part, rye meal 2 parts, with a sufficient quantity of 
 linseed oil. Or, dissolve 1 part of glue in 16 parts of water, 
 and when almost cool, stir in sawdust and prepared chalk a 
 sufficient quantity. Or, oil-varnish thickened with a mixt- 
 ure of equal parts of white-lead, red-lead, litharge, and 
 chalk. 
 
 To Mend China. — Take a very thick solution of gum 
 arabic in water, and stir into it plaster-of-Paris until the 
 mixture becomes of a proper consistency. Apply it with a 
 brush to the fractured edges of the china, and stick them 
 together. In three days the articles cannot be broken in 
 the same place. The whiteness of the cement renders it 
 doubly valuable. 
 
 Stone-Masons Cement. — Clean river sand 20 lbs., lith- 
 arge 2 lbs., quick-lime 1 lb., linseed oil, sufficient to form a 
 thin paste. This cement is used to mend broken pieces 
 of stone, and after a time it becomes exceedingly hard and 
 strong. A similar composition has been used to coat brick 
 walls, under the name of mastic. 
 
 Fire- Proof and Water-Proof Cement. — To 4 or 5 parts 
 of clay, thoroughly dried and pulverized, add 2 parts of fine 
 iron filings free from oxide, 1 part of peroxide of manganese, \ 
 part of sea salt, and \ part of borax. Mingle these thor- 
 oughly and render them as fine as possible, then reduce 
 them to a thick paste with the necessary quantity of water. 
 It must be used immediately. After application, it should 
 be exposed to heat, gradually increasing almost to a white 
 heat. This cement is very hard, and presents complete re- 
 sistance alike to a red heat and boiling water. 
 
 Another Method. — To equal parts of sifted peroxide of 
 
408 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 manganese and well-pulverized zinc white, add a sufficient 
 quantity of commercial soluble glass to form a thin paste. 
 This mixture, when used immediately, forms a cement quite 
 equal in hardness and resistance to that obtained by the first 
 method. 
 
 Armenian, or Jeweler's Cement. — Dissolve 5 or 6 bits 
 of gum mastic, the size of a large pea, in as much spirits of 
 wine as will suffice to render it liquid; in a separate vessel 
 dissolve as much isinglass (previously softened in water, 
 though none of the water must be used) in rum, or other 
 spirit, as will make a 2-oz. phial of very strong glue, add- 
 ing two small pieces of gum ammoniacum, which must be 
 rubbed or ground till they are dissolved ; then mix the whole 
 with a sufficient heat. Keep it in a phial closely stopped, 
 and when it is to be used, set the phial in boiling water. 
 The preceding is also effectual in uniting almost all sub- 
 stances, even glass, to polished steel. 
 
 9tt i^cnUa. 14 eo 1 1 ■> cHe 
 
 C413CO. 
 
 To Renew Manuscripts. — Take a hair pencil and wash 
 the part that has been effaced with a solution of pruasiate of 
 potash and water, and the writing will again appear if the 
 paper has not been destroyed. 
 
 Tracing Paper. — 1. Wash very thin paper with the 
 following mixture: Spirits turpentine, 6 parts, by weight, 
 resin 1 part, boiled nut oil 1 part. Apply with a soft 
 sponge. 
 
 2. Brush over one side of a good, thin, unsized paper 
 with a varnish made of equal parts of Canada balsam and 
 turpentine. If required to take water-color, it must be 
 washed over with ox-gall and dried before being used. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 409 
 
 3. Open a quire of double-crown tissue paper, and brush 
 the first sheet with a mixture of mastic varnish and oil of 
 turpentine, equal parts; proceed with each sheet similarly, 
 and dry them on lines by hanging them up singly. As the 
 process goes on, the under sheets absorb a portion of the 
 varnish, and require less than if single sheets were brushed 
 separately. 
 
 Transfer Paper — is made by rubbing white paper with 
 a composition consisting of 2 oz. tallow, \ oz. powdered 
 black-lead, \ pint linseed oil, and sufficient lamp-black to 
 make it of the consistency of cream. These should be 
 melted together and rubbed on the paper while hot. When 
 dry it will be fit for use. 
 
 Alloy for Journal Boxes. — Copper 3 lbs., tin 3 lbs., 
 and antimony 1 lb. Melt the copper first, then add the tin, 
 and lastly the antimony. It should be first run into ingots, 
 then melted and cast in the form required for the boxes. 
 
 Amber, to Mend. — Smear the parts which are to be 
 united with linseed oil, hold the oiled part carefully over a 
 small charcoal fire, a hot cinder, or a gas-light, being care- 
 ful to cover up all the rest of the object loosely with paper; 
 when the oiled parts have begun to feel the heat, so as to be 
 sticky, pinch or press them together, and hold them so till 
 nearly cold. Only that part where the edges are to be 
 united must be warmed, and even that with care, lest the 
 form or polish of the other parts should be disturbed ; the 
 part joined generally requires a little re-polishing. 
 
 Bronzing Wood. — The wood is first covered with a uni- 
 form coating of glue, or of drying oil, and when nearly dry 
 the bronze powder, contained in a small bag, is dusted over 
 it. The surface of the object is afterward rubbed with a 
 
410 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 piece of moist rag, or the bronze powder may be previously 
 mixed with the drying oil, and applied with a brush. The 
 bronze powder can be procured at almost any drug store, 
 and at some paint stores. 
 
 To Print a Picture from the Print Itself. — The page 
 or picture is soaked in a solution, first of potassa, and then 
 of tartaric acid. This produces a perfect diffusion of crystals 
 of bitartarate of potassa through the texture of the unprinted 
 part of the paper. As this salt resists oil, the ink roller 
 may now be passed over the surface, without transferring 
 any part of its contents except to the printed part. 
 
 Hints about Screws. — Where screws are driven into 
 soft wood and subjected to considerable strain, they are very 
 likely to work loose, and it is often difficult to make them 
 hold. In such cases the use of glue is profitable. Prepare 
 the glue thick, immerse a stick about half the size of the 
 screw and put it into the hole, then immerse the screw, and 
 drive it home as quickly as possible. When there is an 
 article of furniture to be hastily repaired, and no glue is at 
 hand, bore a hole, insert the stick, fill the rest of the cavity 
 with pulverized resin, then heat the screw sufficiently to melt 
 the resin as it is driven in. Where screws are driven into 
 wood for temporary purposes, they can be more easily re- 
 moved by dipping them in oil before inserting. When buy- 
 ing screws, notice that the heads are sound and well cut, 
 that there are no flaws in the body or thread part, and that 
 they have gimlet points. A screw of good make will drive 
 into oak as easily as others into pine, and will endure having 
 twice the force brought against it. 
 
 To Make Putty. — Mix a quantity "of whiting into a very 
 stiff paste with linseed oil, rubbing and beating it well before 
 
MISCELLANEOUS HEGIPES. 411 
 
 using. For particular purposes, as for fanlights, iron-framed 
 green-houses, and other places where the lap or hold is very 
 narrow, a little white-lead may be added to advantage. 
 Colored putty has a mixture of red ochre, lamp-black, or 
 other color with the whiting. 
 
 To Make Sealing- Wax. — Red. Take 1 lb. of yellow 
 resin, 5^ oz. of gum lac, o£ oz. of Venice turpentine, and 1 
 oz. of vermilion. Melt the lac in a copper pan suspended 
 over a clear fire, add the resin, pour the turpentine slowly 
 in, and soon afterward add the vermilion, stirring the mixt- 
 ure all the time. Form either into round sticks by rolling 
 it out on a smooth stone slab by means of a wooden board, 
 or into oval sticks by casting it into stone molds made in 
 two pieces. 
 
 Black sealing-wax is made by substituting either lamp- 
 black or ivory-black in the above recipe. 
 
 Cleaning Harness, or Saddles and Bridles. — If harness, 
 wash it perfectly clean with warm water and soft soap, and 
 when dry, apply neat's-foot oil and black dye, mixed; mix 
 them by adding a small quantity of salts of wormwood, 
 when they will be well blacked and pliable. At the same 
 time, by applying the oil and dye to the bottom or under 
 parts of the straps, and composition to the top, they will 
 always be pliable, and have a good polish on the top. If a 
 riding saddle, wash in cold water and soft soap until free 
 from dirt; then apply soft soap with a woolen cloth — about 
 2 table-spoonfuls would be enough for a saddle — which will 
 dry in. If the saddle is to have a yellow appearance, infuse 
 a few cents' worth of hay saffron in about four or five table- 
 spoonfuls of water, and apply before the soft soap, then rub 
 on a piece of woolen cloth, or a brush, a piece of bees- wax. 
 
412 0*712 HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 and finish the saddle off with it, rubbing till a good polish is 
 obtained. 
 
 Blacking for Harness. — 1. Molasses £ lb., lamb-black 
 
 1 oz., yeast a spoonful, sugar-candy, olive oil, gum traga- 
 canth, and isinglass, each 1 oz., and a cow's gall. Mix with 
 
 2 pts. of stale beer, and let it stand before the fire for an 
 hour. 
 
 2. Molasses 8 parts, lamp-black 1, sweet oil 1, gum 
 arabic 1, isinglass 1, water 32. Apply heat to the whole; 
 when cold, add 1 oz. spirits of wine, and apply with sponge. 
 If it should get hard, place the bottle in warm water a short 
 time. 
 
 3. Melt 1 lb. bees-wax, stir in 4 oz. ivory-black, 2 oz. 
 spirits turpentine, 2 oz. Prussian blue, ground in oil, and | 
 oz. copal varnish. Make into balls. With a brush apply 
 to harness, and polish with silk gently. 
 
 Harness Composition. — Put into a glazed pipkin 2 oz. 
 of black resin, place it on a gentle fire ; when melted, add 3 
 oz. of bees-wax. When this is melted, take it from the fire, 
 add \ oz. of fine lamp-black, and \ dr. of Prussian blue in 
 fine powder; stir them so as to be perfectly mixed, and add 
 sufficient spirits of turpentine to form a thin paste, let it 
 cool. To use it, apply a coat with a piece of linen rag pretty 
 evenly all over the harness ; then take a soft polishing brush 
 and brush it over, to obtain a bright surface. 
 
 To Destroy Bed-Bugs, Moths, and Other Vermin. — 
 Dissolve alum in hot water, making a very strong solution; 
 apply to furniture or crevices in the walls with paint brush. 
 This is sure destruction to those noxious vermin, and inval- 
 uable because easily obtained, is perfectly safe to use, and 
 leaves no unpleasant traces behind. When you suspect 
 
BECIPKS FOB MAKING INK. 413 
 
 moths have lodged in the borders of carpets, wet the edges 
 of the carpets with a strong solution ; whenever it reaches 
 them, it is certain death. 
 
 Black Ink, Non-Corrosive. — Digest in an open vessel 
 42 oz. of coarsely-powdered nut-galls, 15 oz. of gum Senegal, 
 18 oz. of sulphate of iron, copperas free from copper, 3 
 dr. of aqua ammonia, 24 oz. of alcohol, and 18 qts. of dis- 
 tilled or rain-water. Continue the digestion until the fluid 
 has assumed a deep black color. To make less quantity, use 
 less of each ingredient, but in the same proportion. For 
 cheap inks other ingredients may be substituted instead of 
 part of the galls; logwood, catechu, sumac, and oak-bark 
 may be used for the same purpose. Many other substances, 
 such as elm wood, elder, chestnut, beech, willow, plum, 
 cherry, and poplar, all contain a certain amount of astrin- 
 gent properties, but none of them are to be compared to 
 galls, and are not likely to supercede them in the manufact- 
 ure of ink so long as galls can be had for a fair price. 
 
 A Cheap Invisible Ink. — Dissolve 1 fluid oz. of common 
 oil of vitriol in a pint of soft water. Stir well and allow it 
 to cool. Write with a clean pen. When dry it will be in- 
 visible, held to the fire it turns an indellible black. 
 
 Green Ink. — Verdigris 2 oz., cream of tartar 1 oz., 
 water \ pt., reduce one-half by boiling, and filter, using 
 druggist's filtering paper. 
 
 Blue Ink.— Chinese blue 2 oz., boiling water 1 qt., oxalic 
 acid 1 oz. Dissolve the blue in the water, then add the acid, 
 and it is ready at once. 
 
 Soap-Bubbles. — Few things amuse children more than 
 blowing bubbles. Dissolve \ of an oz. of castile or oil soap, 
 cut up in small pieces, in f of a pt. of water, and boil it for 
 
414 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 two or three minutes ; then add five oz. of glycerine. When 
 cold, this fluid will produce the best and most lasting 
 bubbles that can be blown. 
 
 To Prevent Rusting. — 1. Boiled 'linseed oil will keep 
 polished tools from rusting if it is allowed to dry on them. 
 Common sperm oil will prevent them from rusting for a 
 short period. A coat of copal varnish is frequently applied 
 to polished tools exposed to the weather. Woolen materials 
 are the best for wrappers for metals. 2. Iron and steel goods 
 of all descriptions are kept free from rust by the following: 
 Dissolve | oz. of camphor in 1 lb. of hog's lard, take off the 
 scum, and mix as much black-lead as will give the mixture 
 an iron color. Iron and steel and machinery of all kinds, 
 rubbed over with this mixture, and left with it on for 24 
 hours, and then rubbed with a linen cloth, will keep clean 
 for months. If the machinery is for exportation it should 
 be kept thickly coated with this during the voyage. 
 
 To Prevent Lead Exploding. — Many mechanics have 
 had their patience sorely tried when pouring melted lead 
 around a damp or wet joint to find it explode, blow out, or 
 scatter from the effects of steam generated by the heat of 
 the lead. The whole trouble may be stopped by putting a 
 piece of resin the size of the end of a man's thumb into the 
 ladle and allowing it to melt before pouring. Simple as the 
 secret Is, many have paid $20 for the privilege of knowing it. 
 
 To Repair Rubber Hose. — Cut the hose apart where it 
 is defective, obtain from any gas-fitter a piece of iron pipe 
 two or three inches long, twist the hose over it until the ends 
 meet, wrap with strong twine, well waxed, and it will last 
 a long time. 
 
 To Keep Wagon Tires on the Wheel. — A practical 
 
THE TEMPERING SECRET. 415 
 
 mechanic suggests a method of so putting tires on wagons 
 that they will not get loose and require resetting. He says 
 he ironed a wagon some years ago for his own use, and 
 before putting on the tires, ho tilled the felloes with linseed 
 oil, and the tires have worn out and were never loose. This 
 method is as follows: Use a long cast-iron heater made 
 for the purpose; the oil is brought to a boiling heat, the 
 wheel is placed on a stick, so as to hang each felloe in the 
 oil an hour. The timber should be dry, as green timber will 
 not take oil. Care should be taken that the oil is not made 
 hotter than a boiling heat, or the timber will be burned. 
 Timber filled with oil is not susceptible of injury by water, 
 and is rendered much more durable by this process. 
 
 The United States Government Tempering Secret. — 
 The following process and mixtures, patented by Garman 
 and Siegfried, and owned by the Steel Refining and Tem- 
 pering Co., of Boston, Mass., cost the U. S. Government 
 $10,000 for the right of using in their shops, and is said to 
 impart extraordinary hardness and durability to the poorest 
 kinds of steel. Siegfried's specification reads as follows : — 
 
 " I first heat the steel to a cherry red in a clean smith's 
 fire, and then cover it with chloride of sodium (common 
 salt), purifying the fire also by throwing in salt. I work 
 the steel in this condition, and while subjected to this 
 treatment, until it is brought into nearly its finished form. 
 I then substitute for the salt a compound composed of the 
 following ingredients, and in about the following proportions: 
 One part by weight of each of the following substances: 
 chloride of sodium (salt), sulphate of copper, sal-ammoniac, 
 and sal-soda, together with | part by weight of pure nitrate 
 of potassa (saltpeter), said ingredients being pulverized and 
 
416 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 mixed ; I alternately heat the steel and treat it by covering 
 with this mixture and hammering it until it is thoroughly 
 refined and brought into its finished form. I then return it 
 to the fire and heat it slowly to a cherry red, and then 
 plunge it into a bath composed of the following ingredients, 
 in substantially the following proportions for the required 
 quantity: of rain-water 1 gal., alum, sal-soda, sulphate of 
 copper, of each li oz., of nitrate of potassa (saltpeter) 1 oz., 
 and of chloride of sodium (salt) 6 oz. These quantities and 
 proportions are stated as being what I regard as practically 
 the best, but it is manifest that they may be slightly changed 
 without departing from the principles of my invention." 
 
 U. S. Mint Test for Counterfeit Silver. — Make a solu- 
 tion of 24 grs. nitrate of silver, 30 drops nitric acid, and 1 
 oz. of water; scrape the coin to be tested and apply a drop 
 of the liquid; if the coin turns black, reject it. 
 
rP 
 
 
 rp 
 
 J 
 
 *&- 
 
 
 — : 
 
 L of agOOKING. 
 
 S^gSj^^a) 
 
 •41 
 
 •*- c=^ » 
 
 N the following pages of the " Household Com- 
 pendium," will be found a most concise and val- 
 uable collection of recipes and instructions for 
 cooking. The experienced housewife will not be 
 slow in discovering that this department is en- 
 tirely reliable and trustworthy. Every recipe 
 has been tested in the kitchen and found worthy 
 of a place in this book. 
 
 In order that this Manual may be more service- 
 able, the following arrangement of topics has 
 been made: Kitchen utensils, soups, fish, poul- 
 try and game, meats, vegetables, sauces, puddings, break- 
 fasts and suppers, pies, custards and creams, ices, fruits, 
 candy, bread and biscuits, drinks, beverages, etc., etc. 
 
 27 t 417 J 
 
418 
 
 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Wooden Ware. — Kitchen table, wash bench, wash tubs 
 (three sizes), wash board, bosom board, bread board, towel 
 roller, potato masher, wooden spoons, flour sieve, chopping 
 bowl, soap bowl, pails, lemon squeezer, clothes wringer, 
 clothes horse, clothes pins, clothes basket, mop, broom, and 
 wood box. 
 
 Fig. 1 02. 
 
 Tin Ware. — Boiler for clothes, boiler for ham, bread 
 pan, two dish pans, preserving pan, four milk pans, two 
 quart basins, two pint basins, two quart covered tin pails, 
 one four-quart covered tin pail, sauce pans with covers (two 
 <sizes),two tin cups with handles, two pint molds (for rice,blanc- 
 
BECIPES FOR COOKING. 419 
 
 mange, etc.), one skimmer, two dippers (different sizes), one 
 quart measure, pint and half -pint measures (they should be 
 broad and low, as they are more easily kept clean), bread 
 pans, two round jelly cake pans, two long pie pans, coffee 
 pot, tea steeper, steamer, horse-radish grater, nutmeg grater, 
 egg beater, cake turner, cake cutter, apple corer, potato cut- 
 ter, flour dredge, tea canister, coffee canister, cake, bread, 
 cracker, and cheese boxes, crumb tray, and dust pans. 
 
 Iron Ware. — Range or stove, pot with steamer to fit, 
 soup kettle, preserving kettle (porcelain), tea kettle, large 
 and small frying pans, gem pans, iron spoons of various 
 sizes, gridiron, griddle, waffle iron, toasting rack, meat fork, 
 can opener, coffee mill, flat irons, hammer, tack hammer, 
 screw driver, and ice pick. 
 
 Stone Ware. — Crocks (various sizes), bowls of pint, two 
 quart, four quart, and six quart, six earthen baking dishes 
 of various sizes. 
 
 So 
 
 li-TO. 
 
 The basis of all good soups, is the broth of meat. This 
 may be made by boiling the cracked joints of beef, veal, or 
 mutton, and is best when cooked the day before it is to be 
 eaten. After putting the meat into the pot, cover it 
 with cold water and let it come to a boil, when it should be 
 well skimmed. Set the meat where it will simmer slowly 
 until it is thoroughly done, keeping the pot closely covered 
 the while. The next day, when the soup is cold, remove the 
 fat, which will harden on the top of the soup. After this. 
 add the vegetables and the herbs you use for seasoning, 
 cooking all well together. Before sending to the table, t r 1 • ■ 
 
420 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 soup should be strained. A good stock for soups may be 
 made from shreds and bits of uncooked meat and bones, 
 poultry, and the remains of game. When these are all put 
 together and stewed down in the pot, the French term it 
 consomme, and use it chiefly in the preparation of brown 
 soups. 
 
 Soups may be varied in many ways, chiefly in the kinds 
 of vegetables and different seasonings used, as in herbs, 
 burned caramel, eggs, or slices of bread fried to a crisp in 
 butter, which impart a savory relish. 
 
 Potato Soup. — Slice and fry to a nice brown 4 large on- 
 ions in one-fourth lb. butter in a soup pot, add 4 qts. of skim- 
 milk, have pealed and boiled a good 3 pts. of potatoes, mash 
 them fine and reduce smooth with the milk from your soup 
 pot; repeat this till all the potatoes are in the soup pot; 
 just bring to a boil, and add pepper and salt to taste. 
 
 Ox- Tail Soup. — Take 2 ox tails and 2 whole onions, 2 
 carrots, 1 small turnip, 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, and a little 
 white pepper, add 1 gal. water, let all boil for 2 hours; then 
 take out the tails and cut the meat into small pieces, return 
 the bones to the pot for a short time, boil another hour, 
 then strain the soup, and rinse 2 spoonfuls of arrowroot to 
 add to it with the meat cut from the bones, and let all 
 boil for a quarter of an hour. 
 
 Beef Soup. — Cut all the lean off the shank, and with a 
 little beef suet in the bottom of the kettle, fry it to a nice 
 brown; put in the bones and cover with water; cover the 
 kettle closely; let it cook slowly until the meat drops from 
 the bones, strain through a strainer and leave it in the dish 
 during the night, which is the only way to get off all the 
 fat. The day it is wanted for the table, fry as brown as 
 
RECIPES FOB SOUPS. 421 
 
 possible 1 carrot, 1 onion, and 1 very small turnip sliced 
 thin. Just before taking up, put in one-half tea-spoonful of 
 sugar, 1 blade of mace, 6 cloves, 12 kernels of allspice, 1 
 small tea-spoonful of celery seed, with the vegetables, this 
 must cook slowly in the soup 1 hour, then strain again for 
 the table. If you use vermicelli or pearl barley, soak in 
 water. 
 
 Mutton Soup. — Boil a leg of mutton 3 hours, season to 
 your taste with salt and pepper, and add 1 tea-spoonful of 
 summer savory ; make a batter of 1 egg, 2 table-spoonfuls of 
 milk, 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, all well beaten together ; drop 
 this batter into the soup with a spoon, and boil for 3 minutes. 
 
 Oyster Soup. — Take 1 qt. of water, 1 tea-cupful of 
 butter, 1 pt. of milk, 2 tea-spoonfuls of salt, 4 crackers rolled 
 fine, and 1 tea-spoonful of pepper; bring to full boiling heat 
 as soon as possible, then add 1 qt. of oysters. Let the whole 
 come to a boiling heat quickly and remove from the fire. 
 
 Another. — Pour 1 qt. of boiling water into a skillet, 
 then add 1 qt. of good rich milk, stir in 1 tea-cupful of 
 rolled cracker crumbs, season with pepper and salt to taste. 
 When all come to a boil, add 1 qt. of good fresh oysters; 
 stir well, so as to keep from scorching, then add a piece of 
 good sweet butter about the size of an egg; let it boil up 
 once, then remove from the fire immediately ; dish up and 
 send to table. 
 
 Tomato Soup. — Boil chicken or beef 4 hours, then strain, 
 add to the soup one can of tomatoes and boil 1 hour. This 
 will make four quarts of soup. 
 
 Vermicelli Soup. — A knuckle of lamb, a small piece of 
 veal, and water to cover well ; when well cooked, season with 
 salt, pepper, herbs to your taste, and a small onion, to which 
 
422 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 you may add Halford or Worcestershire sauce about 1 table- 
 spoonful. Have ready one-fourth lb. of vermicelli, which has 
 been boiled tender, strain your soup from the meat, add the 
 vermicelli, let it boil well and serve. 
 
 Tomato Soup without Meat. — 1 qt. of tomatoes, 1 qt. 
 of water, 1 qt, of milk. Butter, salt, and pepper to taste. 
 Cook the tomatoes thoroughly in the water, have the milk 
 scalding, (over water to prevent scorching). When the 
 tomatoes are done, add 1 large tea-spoonful of saleratus, 
 which will cause a violent effervescence. It is best to 
 set the vessel in a pan before adding it, to prevent waste. 
 When the commotion has ceased, add the milk and season- 
 ing. When possible, it is best to use more milk than 
 water, and cream instead of butter. The soup is eaten with 
 crackers. This recipe is very valuable for those who keep 
 abstinence days. 
 
 Com Soup. — 1 small beef bone, 2 qts. of water, 4 toma- 
 toes, 8 ears of corn ; let the meat boil a short time in the 
 water, cut the corn from the cob and put in the cobs with 
 the cut corn and tomatoes; let it boil about half an hour, 
 remove the cobs; just before serving add the milk, which 
 should be allowed to boil for a few moments only ; season 
 with salt and pepper. 
 
 Bean Soup. — 1 pt. of beans, 4 qts. of water, small piece 
 of fat beef, boil 3 hours and strain. If too thin add 1 table- 
 spoonful of flour. 
 
 Noodles for Soup. — Rub into 2 eggs as much sifted 
 flour as they will absorb, then roll out until thin as a wafer, 
 dust over a little flour, and then roll over and over into a 
 roll, cut off thin slices from the edge of the roll and shake 
 out into long strips, put them into the soup lightly and boil 
 
HOW TO COOK FISH. 4£3 
 
 for ten minutes, salt should be added while mixing with the 
 flour, — about a salt-spoonful. 
 
 Fish are good when the gills are red, eyes are full, and 
 the body of the fish is firm and stiff. After washing them 
 well, they should be allowed to remain for a short time in 
 salt water sufficient to cover them. Before cooking, wipe 
 them dry, dredge lightly with flour, and season with salt 
 and pepper. Salmon-trout and other small fish are usually 
 fried or broiled ; all large fish should be put in a cloth, tied 
 closely with twine, and placed in cold water, when they may 
 be put over the fire to boil. When fish are baked, prepare 
 them the same as for boiling, and put in the oven on a 
 wire gridiron, over a dripping-pan. 
 
 Boiled White Fish. — Lay the fish open, put it in' a 
 dripping-pan with the back down, nearly cover with water. 
 To one fish add 2 table-spoonfuls of salt, cover tightly and 
 simmer (not boil) one-half hour, dress with gravy, butter, 
 and pepper, garnish with sliced eggs. For sauce, use a piece 
 of butter the size of an egg, 1 table-spoonful of flour, one-half 
 pt. of boiling water; boil a few minutes, and add 3 hard- 
 boiled eggs, sliced. 
 
 Sauce for Boiled Fish. — To 1 tea-cupful of milk add 
 1 tea-cupful of water, put it on the fire to scald, and when 
 hot stir in 1 table-spoonful of flour, previously wet with cold 
 water; add 2 or 3 eggs, season with salt and pepper, a little 
 celery, vinegar, and 3 table-spoonfuls of butter. Boil 4 or 
 5 eggs hard, take off" the shells, and cut in slices, and lay 
 over the dish. Then pour over the sauce and serve. 
 
424 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Baked Black Bass. — 8 good-sized onions chopped fine, 
 half that quantity of bread crumbs, butter size of hen's egg, 
 plenty of pepper and salt, mix thoroughly with anchovy 
 sauce until quite red. Stuff your fish with this compound 
 and pour the rest over it, previously sprinkling it with a 
 little red pepper. Shad, pickerel, and trout are good, cooked 
 in the same way. Tomatoes can be used instead of an- 
 chovies, and are more economical. If using them, take pork 
 in place of butter and chop fine. 
 
 Broiled White Fish. — Wash and drain the fish, sprinkle 
 with pepper and lay with the inside down upon the gridiron, 
 and broil over fresh bright coals. When a nice brown, turn 
 for a moment on the other side, then take up and spread 
 with butter. This is a very nice way of broiling all kinds 
 of fish, fresh or salted. A little smoke under the fish adds 
 to its flavor. This may be made by putting two or three 
 cobs under the gridiron. 
 
 Eels. — Skin and parboil them, cleanse the back bone of 
 all coagulations, cut them in pieces about 3 inches in length, 
 dip in flour, and cook in pork fat; brown. 
 
 Salt Mackerel. — Soak the fish for a few hours in luke- 
 warm water, changing the water several times; then put 
 into cold water, loosely tied in cloths, and let the fish come 
 to a boil, turning off the water once, and pouring over the 
 fish hot water from the tea-kettle; let this just come to a 
 boil, then take them out and drain them, lay them on a 
 platter, butter and pepper them, and place them for a few 
 moments in the oven. Serve with sliced lemons, or with 
 any nice fish sauce. 
 
 Baked Halibut or Salmon. — Let the fish remain in 
 cold water, slightly salted, for an hour before it is time to 
 
HOW TO COOK OYSTERS. 425 
 
 cook it, place the gridiron on a dripping-pan with a little 
 hot water in it, and bake in a hot oven; just before it Is done, 
 butter it well on the top, and brown it nicely. The time of 
 baking depends upon the size of the fish. A small fish will 
 bake in about half an hour, and a large one in an hour. 
 They are very nice when cooked as above and served with 
 a sauce which is made from the gravy in the dripping-pan, 
 to which is added a table-spoonful of catsup and another of 
 some pungent sauce and the juice of a lemon. Thicken 
 with brown flour moistened with a little cold water. Gar- 
 nish handsomely with sprigs of parsley and current j elly. 
 
 Oyster Patties. — Make some rich puff paste and bake it 
 in very small tin patty-pans ; when cool, turn them out upon a 
 large dish; stew some large fresh oysters with a few cloves, 
 a little mace, and nutmeg; then add the yolk of one egg, 
 boiled hard and grated; add a little butter and as much of 
 the oyster liquor as will cover them. When they have 
 stewed a little while, take them out of the pan and set 
 them to cool. "When quite cold, lay two or three oysters in 
 each shell of puff paste. 
 
 Stewed Oysters. — Drain the liquor from 2 qts. of firm, 
 plump oysters, mix with one small tea-cupful of hot water, 
 add a little salt and pepper, and set over a fire in a sauce- 
 pan. When it boils, add 1 large cupful of rich milk. Let 
 it boil up once, add the oysters, and let it boil 5 minutes. 
 When they ruffle add 2 table-spoonfuls of butter, and the 
 ins£ant it is melted and well stirred in, take off the fire. 
 
 Broiled Oysters. — Drain the oysters well and dry them 
 with a napkin. Have ready a griddle hot and well-but- 
 tered, season the oysters, lay them on the griddle and brown 
 them on both sides. Serve them on a hot plate with plenty 
 of butter. 
 
426 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Oysters a la Creme. — 1 qt. of oysters, 1 pt. of cream; put 
 the oysters in a double kettle, cook until the milk j uice begins 
 to flow out, drain the oysters in a strainer. Put the cream 
 on the same way; when it comes to a boil, thicken with 
 flour wet with milk as thick as corn starch ready to mold ; 
 then put in the oysters and cook 5 minutes. Serve hot on 
 toast. 
 
 Escaloped Oysters. — Butter the dish, (common earthen 
 pie plates are the best), cover the bottom of the dish with 
 very fine bread crumbs; add a layer of oysters; season 
 with pepper and salt; alternate the crumbs and oysters 
 until you have three layers; finish with crumbs; cover the 
 top with small pieces of butter ; finish around the edge with 
 bread cut into small oblong pieces dipped in butter; bake 
 half an hour; unless shell oysters, wash them thoroughly 
 and strain. 
 
 To Fry Oysters. — Use the largest and best oysters; lay 
 them in rows upon a clean cloth and press another upon 
 them, to absorb the moisture; have ready several beaten 
 eggs, and in another dish some finely crushed crackerst; in 
 the frying-pan heat enough butter to entirely cover the oys- 
 ters; dip the oysters first into the eggs, then into the crack- 
 ers, rolling them over that they may become well in- 
 crusted; drop into the frying-pan, and fry quickly to a 
 light brown. Serve dry and let the dish be warm. A 
 chafing dish is best. 
 
 Stetved Tripe. — Select 2 lbs. of double tripe well 
 cleaned and 'blanched, cut in pieces of rather less than a 
 quarter of a pound each, put in a clean stew-pan with 1 pt. 
 of milk, and one of water, 2 tea-spoonfuls of salt, 1 tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, 8 middle-sized onions carefully peeled; 
 
HOW TO COOK POULTRY AND, GAME. 427 
 
 set it on to boil, which it should do at first rather fast, thru 
 simmer till done, which will be in rather more than half an 
 hour. Put it into a deep dish or tureen, and serve with the 
 milk and onions. 
 
 kowikviA awh Qavwi. 
 
 When poultry is brought into the kitchen for use, it 
 should be kept as cool as possible. The best position in 
 which to place it is with the breast downward on a shelf 
 or marble slab. The crop should be taken out. Choose 
 fowls with a thin, transparent skin, white and delicate. 
 Time required to boil poultry: a chicken will take about 20 
 minutes, a fowl about 40 minutes, a small turkey li hours, 
 a large turkey 2 hours or more. 
 
 Preparation of Hashes, Gravies, and Sauces. — There is 
 nothing worse for the health or for the palate than a poor 
 hash, while a good hash is not only a favorite dish in most 
 families, but an essential article of economy and convenience. 
 For this reason a separate article is devoted to this subject. 
 The following are the ways in which hashes are spoiled. 
 The first is by cooking them. Meat, when once cooked, 
 should only be heated. If it is again stewed or fried, it tends 
 to make it hard or tough, and diminishes its flavor. The 
 second is by frying the butter or gravy in which they are 
 prepared. It has been shown that this is very injurious to 
 the healthfulness of food. Butter and oils may be melted 
 without changing their nature, but when cooked, they be- 
 come much more indigestible and injurious to weak stom- 
 achs. The third mode of injuring hashes is by putting in 
 flour in such ways that it is not properly cooked. Flour 
 
428 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 dredged on to hashes while they are cooking imparts the 
 raw taste of dough. The fourth mode is by putting in 
 so much water as to make them vapid, or else so much 
 grease as to make them gross. The fifth is by seasoning 
 them with so little care, that they either have very little 
 savory taste, or else are so hot with pepper and spice as to 
 be unhealthy. If the housekeeper will observe these cau- 
 tions, or see that her cook does so, she may' always have good 
 and healthful hashes. 
 
 Boiled Foid— Take a young fowl and fill the inside 
 with oysters ; place in a jar and plunge into a kettle of 
 water; boil 1| hours; there will be a quantity of gravy in 
 the jar from the juice of the fowl, and the oysters; make 
 this into a white sauce, with the addition of egg, cream, or 
 a little flour and butter ; add oysters, or serve up plain with 
 the fowl. This is very nice with the addition of a little pars- 
 ley to the sauce. 
 
 Roast Turkey or Chicken. — Having picked and drawn 
 the fowls, wash them well in two or three waters; wipe 
 them dry; dredge them with a little flour inside and out, 
 and a little pepper and salt; prepare a dressing of bread and 
 cracker crumbs, fill the bodies and crops of the fowLs and 
 then bake them from 2 to 3 hours ; baste them frequently 
 while roasting; stew the giblets in a saucepan; just before 
 serving, chop the giblets fine; after taking up the chicken 
 and the water in which the giblets were boiled, add the 
 chopped giblets to the gravy of the roast fowl ; thicken with 
 a little flour, which has been previously wet with the water ; 
 boil up and serve in a gravy-dish. Roast chicken and tur- 
 key should be accompanied with celery and jellies. 
 
 To Boil a Turkey. — Make a stuffing for the craw of 
 
HOW TO COOK POULTRY AND GAME. 429 
 
 chopped bread and butter, cream, oysters, and the yolks of 
 eggs ; sew it in, and dredge flour over the turkey, and put it 
 to boil in cold water, with a spoonful of salt in it, and enough 
 water to cover it well; let it simmer for 2£ hours, or if 
 small, less time; skim it Avhile boiling. It looks nicer if 
 wrapped in a cloth dredged wjth flour; serve it with drawn 
 butter, in which put some oysters. 
 
 Roast Chickens. — Wash them clean outside and inside, 
 stuff as directed for turkeys, and baste with butter, lard, 
 or. drippings, and roast them about an hour. Chickens 
 should be cooked thoroughly. Stew the inwards till tender 
 and till there is but little water, chop them and mix in 
 gravy from the dripping-pan, thicken with brown flour, 
 season with salt, pepper, and butter. Cranberry or new- 
 made apple sauce is good with them. 
 
 Baked Chicken. — Cut the fowl open and lay it flat 
 in a pan, breaking down the breast and the back bones, 
 dredge with flour and season well with salt and pepper 
 and bits of butter; put in a very hot oven until done, bast- 
 ing frequently with melted butter, or when half done take 
 out the chicken and finish by broiling it upon a gridiron 
 over bright coals; pour over it melted butter and the juices 
 in the pan in which it was baked. 
 
 Dressing for Chicken or Turkey. — Chop bread crumbs 
 quite fine, season well with pepper, salt, and plenty of 
 butter, moisten with a very little water, and add a few 
 oysters with a little of the liquor, if you please. The best 
 authorities say the dressing is the finest when it crumbles as 
 the fowl is cut. 
 
 Dressing for Turkey. — One pint of soaked bread, 2 
 table-spoonfuls of sage, 2 table-spoonfuls of summer savory. 
 
430 OUR HOMES AND THEIR A DORNMEATS. 
 
 2 tea-spoonfuls of salt, 2 tea-spoonfuls of pepper, butter the 
 size of an egg. 
 
 Fried Chicken. — Cut the chicken in pieces, lay it in salt 
 and water, changing the water several times, roll each piece 
 in flour, fry in very hot lard or butter, season with salt and 
 pepper, fry parsley with it also. Make a gravy of cream 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little mace, thickened with 
 a little flour in the pan in which the chicken was fried, pour- 
 ing off the lard. 
 
 Curry.— To make curry with rabbit, chicken, or any 
 other meat, flour the meat and fry it a nice light brown, fry 
 also 2 large onions in the same way, mix a table-spoonful of 
 curry powder, and a small quantity of cayenne in a tea-cup, 
 with warm water, to the consistency of cream, and cover 
 every part of the meat with the mixture ; have ready some 
 nice stock or thin gravy, put all together in a stew-pan, and 
 let it stew gently 20 minutes ; before serving, slice 2 or 3 
 apples, let them stew away ; this addition is thought to be a 
 great improvement as it makes the curry milder. Some 
 rice should be boiled very dry and served around the dish. 
 
 Chicken Pie. — Stew chickens until tender, line the sides 
 of a deep pie dish with nice pastry, put in the chicken and 
 the water in which it has boiled (which should be but half a 
 pint), season with a large piece of butter, salt, and pepper, 
 and then cover loosely with crust. While this is baking, 
 have ready a quart can of fine oysters, put on the fire 1 pt. 
 of rich milk (or the liquor of the oysters will do), let it come 
 to a boil, thicken with a little flour, and season with butter, 
 pepper, and salt ; pour this over the oysters boiling hot ; and 
 about fifteen minutes before the pie is done, lift the crust 
 and pour the oysters and all into the pie, then return to the 
 oven to finish. 
 
HOW TO COOK POULTRY AND GAME. 4:;| 
 
 To Roast Wild Foivl.—'Put an onion, salt, and hot water 
 into a pan, and baste for 10 or 15 minutes; change the 
 pan, put in a slice of salt pork, and baste with butter and 
 pork drippings very often, just before serving dredge lightly 
 with flour and baste. Ducks take from 25 to 35 minutes to 
 roast, and woodcocks and snipes 15 to 25. Do not draw or 
 take off the heads of either. Garnish with fried or toasted 
 bread, lemon, parsley, and currant jelly. 
 
 Ducks. — When roasted, use dressing as for turkey, with 
 the addition of a few slices of onion. Many cooks lay over 
 the game slices of onion, which take away the fishy flavor, 
 removing the onion before serving. Make a sauce with the 
 drippings in the pan in which the game is roasted, and to 
 which are put the chopped giblets, being previously well 
 cooked; thicken the gravy with brown flour, moistened with 
 water. Serve with currant jelly. 
 
 Prairie Chickens, Partridges, and Quails. — Clean 
 nicely, using a little soda in the water in which they are 
 washed, rinse them and dry, and then fill them with dressing, 
 sewing them up nicely, binding down the legs and wings 
 with cords. Put them in a steamer over hot water, and let 
 them cook until just done. Then place them in a pan with a 
 little butter, set them in the oven and baste them frequently 
 with melted butter until of a nice brown. They ought to 
 brown nicely in about 15 minutes. Serve them on a platter, 
 with sprigs of parsley alternating with currant jelly. 
 
 Quail on Toast. — After the birds are nicely cleaned, 
 cut them open down the back, salt and pepper them, and 
 dredge with flour. Break down the breast and back bon«^. 
 so they will lie flat, and place them in a pan with very little 
 water and butter in a hot oven, covering them up tightly 
 
432 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 until nearly done. Then place them in a spider in hot butter, 
 and fry a moment to a nice brown. Have ready slices of 
 baker's bread, toasted and slightly buttered upon a platter. 
 The toast should be broken down with a carving knife so 
 that it will be tender. On this place the quail, make a 
 sauce of the gravy in the pan, thicken slightly with browned 
 flour, and pour over each quail and the toast. 
 
 Pigeon Pie. — Make a fine puff paste, lay a border of it 
 around a large dish, and cover the bottom with a veal cutlet, 
 or a very tender steak free from fat and bone, season with 
 salt, cayenne pepper, and mace. Prepare as many pigeons 
 as can be put in one layer of the dish, put in each pigeon a 
 small lump of butter, and season with pepper and salt; lay 
 them in the dish breast downward, and cut in slices half a 
 dozen of hard boiled eggs, and lay in with the birds; put in 
 more butter, some veal broth, and cover the whole with 
 crust. Bake slowly 11 hours. 
 
 91tcah>. 
 
 All salt meat should be put on in cold water, that the 
 salt may be extracted while cooking. Fresh meat, which 
 is boiled to be served with sauces at the table, should be put 
 to cook in boiling water ; when the outer fibers contract, the 
 inner j uices are preserved. 
 
 For making soup, put the meat over in cold water, to 
 extract the juices for the broth. 
 
 In boiling meats, if more water is needed, add that which 
 is hot, and be careful to keep the water on the meat con- 
 stantly boiling. 
 
HOW TO COOK MEATS. 433 
 
 Remove the scum when it first begins to boil. The more 
 gently meat boils, the more tender it will become. Allow 
 twenty minutes for boiling each pound of fresh meat. 
 
 Roast meats requh*e a brisk fire. Baste often. Twenty 
 minutes is required for roasting each pound of fresh meat. 
 The variation in roasted meats consists simply in the method 
 of preparing them to cook, before putting them in the oven. 
 Some are to be larded, some stuffed with bread dressing, and 
 others plain, only seasoning with pepper and salt. 
 
 A piece of red pepper, cooked in a boiled dinner, is very 
 nice. 
 
 Roast Beef. — Prepare for the oven by dredging lightly 
 with flour, and seasoning with salt and pepper ; place m the 
 oven, and baste frequently while roasting. Allow a quarter 
 of an hour for a pound of meat, if you like it rare ; longer if 
 you like it well done. Serve with a sauce, made from the 
 drippings in the pan, to which has been added 1 table- 
 spoonful of Halford or Worcestershire sauce and 1 table- 
 spoonful of tomato catsup. 
 
 Beefsteak and Mushrooms. — Put in a saucepan 1 oz. of 
 butter, 1 small onion chopped fine, a little ground sage, and 
 a little thyme, and put it over the fire ; when hot, shake in 
 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, and when it becomes brown, put 
 in 1 gill of water, and let it boil for half an hour. Then 
 add 3 table-spoonfuls of beef stock, a little salt, a little nut- 
 meg and one wine-glass of sherry wine. Put in one can of 
 mushrooms, and let it boil for 10 minutes. Pour this over 
 a nicely broiled beefsteak. 
 
 To Boil Corned Beef. — Put the beef in water enough 
 to cover it, and let it heat slowly and boil slowly, and he 
 careful to take off the grease. Many think it much iiu- 
 
 28 
 
434 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 proved by boiling potatoes, turnips, and cabbages with it. 
 In this case the vegetables must be peeled and all the grease 
 carefully skimmed as fast as it rises. Allow about 20 min- 
 utes of boiling for each pound of meat. 
 
 To Cook a Ham. — Boil a common-sized ham 4 or 5 
 hours, then skin the whole and fit it for the table. Set 
 it in an oven for half an hour, then cover it thickly with 
 pounded rusk or bread crumbs, and set it back for half an 
 hour. Boiled ham is always improved by setting it into an 
 oven for nearly an hour, till much of the fat fries out; 
 this also makes it more tender. 
 
 Spiced Beef. — 4 lbs. of round of beef chopped fine, all 
 fat beinof removed ; add 3 doz. small crackers rolled fine, 4 
 eggs, 1 cup of milk, 1 table-spoonful of ground mace, 2 table- 
 spoonfuls of black pepper, 1 table-spoonful of melted butter ; 
 mix well and put in any tin pan that it will just fill, pack- 
 ing it well ; baste with butter and water, and bake 2 hours 
 in a slow oven. 
 
 To Corn Beef. — To each gallon of cold water, put 1 qt. 
 rock salt, 1 oz. salt-petre and 4 oz. brown sugar, (it need 
 not be boiled), as long as any salt remains undissolved, the 
 meat will be sweet. If any scum should rise, scald and 
 skim well ; add more salt, salt-petre, and sugar ; as you put 
 each piece of meat into the brine, rub over with salt. If 
 the weather is hot, gash the meat to the bone, and put it in 
 salt. Put a flat stone or some weight on the meat to keep 
 it under the brine. 
 
 Fielded Pork Eqiud to Fresh. — Let the meat cool thor- 
 oughly, cut into pieces four to six inches wide, weigh them, 
 and pack as tight as possible, salting lightly. Cover the 
 meat with brine as strong as possible. Next day pour off 
 
HOW TO COOK MEATS. | ; , 
 
 a gallon of the brine and mix with it a table-spoonful of 
 salt-peter for every hundred pounds of meat, and return it 
 to the barrel. Let it stand one month, take out the meat 
 and let it drain 12 hours. Put the brine into an iron kettle, 
 add 1 qt. molasses or 2 lbs. sugar, and boil till clear. When 
 cold return the meat to the barrel and pour on the brine. 
 Cover it close, and you will have the sweetest meat you ever 
 tasted. 
 
 Mutton Chops. — Cut them nicely, clearing away all 
 rao-cred ends and edges; fry for a few moments covered 
 closely, and then dip each piece in cracker crumbs and 
 beaten egg, or you may prepare them as for frying; then, 
 lay them in a dripping-pan, and put into the oven to bake; 
 baste frequently with a little melted butter and water. 
 
 Roast Veal. — Prepare a leg of veal for the oven by 
 washing, drying, and larding it with strips of fat bacon or 
 ham, and dredging it well with flour, and seasoning with 
 salt and pepper; baste frequently and serve with the gravy 
 thickened. A roast fillet of veal should be prepared by 
 stuffing it with bread crumbs, seasoned with chopped ham, 
 summer savory, pepper and salt. Dredge lightly with flour 
 and bake. 
 
 Fried Calf's Liver.— Cut in thin slices, wash and 
 drain, roll them in corn meal or cracked crumbs, and 
 fry in fresh or salt pork gravy or butter. 
 
 To Cook Sliced Ham.— Cut raw ham in slices, soak in 
 scalding water half an hour, lay your slices in a frying-pan, 
 pepper each, and lay on each slice a little made mustard; 
 pour in half a tea-spoonful of vinegar to each slice; fry 
 quickly, turn often. When done take out, serve on a dish, 
 add to the gravy 1 spoonful of wine, (if you have any 
 
43b' OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 handy), and 1 tea-spoonful of sugar. Boil up once, pour 
 over your ham, and serve. 
 
 Baked Ham. — Most persons boil ham. It is much bet- 
 ter baked, if baked right. Soak it for an hour in clean 
 water and wipe it dry, next spread it all over with thin 
 batter, and then put it into a deep dish with sticks under it 
 to keep it out of the gravy. When it is fully done and the 
 batter crusted on the flesh side, take off the skin and set it 
 away to cool. 
 
 To Boil Ham. — Wash and scrape the ham clean; put it 
 on in cold water enough to cover it; put into the water 2 
 onions, 2 carrots, a head of celery, a dozen cloves and a 
 handful of timothy hay ; boil without stopping until the skin 
 will readily peel from the ham ; cover the ham with rolled 
 crackers, or bread crumbs that have been browned and 
 rolled, and bake in a slow oven for 2 hours. 
 
 
 
 Chicken Salad. — Three chickens chopped fine, both light 
 and dark meat, the juice of two lemons, 8 or 10 eggs boiled 
 hard, the whites chopped fine and the yolks mashed fine, 
 moisten with 6 tea-spoonfuls melted butter, 2 tea-spoonfuls 
 sweet oil ; to which add 1 table-spoonful of mustard, 1 of 
 pepper, 1 of salt, 1 of sugar, 3 of cream; and last, add 6 
 large bunches of celery chopped fine, with sufficient vinegar 
 to moisten the whole. 
 
 Chicken Salad, No. 3. — Boil one chicken tender, then 
 take the meat and chop up, take 2 table-spoonfuls of mus- 
 tard, 3 eggs boiled hard, chop the whites with the chickens, 
 rub the yolks up fine with the mustard, 1 table-spoonful of 
 
SALADS, SA UCES, AND PICKLES. 437 
 
 salt, 3 table-spoonfuls melted butter, 1 table-spoonful black 
 pepper, vinegar enough to moisten it, chop 3 heads of celery 
 to one chicken, mix all together and serve. 
 
 Fish Salad. — Boil tender a white-fish or trout; chop 
 fine ; add same quantity chopped celery, cabbage, or lettuce ; 
 season same as chicken salad. 
 
 Cabbage Salad. — First prepare the cabbage by letting it 
 stand for some time in cold water, in order to make it crisp ; 
 dry well and shave as finely as possible. Choose a firm, 
 white cabbage. Dressing: Rub together a piece of butter 
 the size of a walnut, and 1 table-spoonful of flour; stir in 2 
 table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and scald for 1 minute ; then add 
 the yolk of 1 egg (beaten) and two table-spoonfuls of 
 cream ; salt and pepper to taste. 
 
 Salad Dressing. — The yolk of 4 eggs, two-thirds of a 
 cup of oil, red pepper, salt and mustard to taste, the juice of 
 '2 lemons, and last of all, 1 cup of thick cream. If the 
 dressing is for chicken salad, use the oil or fat from the 
 chicken instead of sweet oil. Be sure and put the cream in 
 last, just before sending to the table. 
 
 Mint Sauce. — Mix 1 table-spoonful of white sugar to 
 half a tea-cup of good vinegar ; add the mint and let it in- 
 fuse for half an hour in a cool place before sending to the 
 table. Serve with roast lamb or mutton. 
 
 Celery Sauce. — Mix 2 table-spoonfuls of flour with half 
 a tea-cup of butter; have ready a pint of boiling milk; stir 
 the flour and butter into the milk; take 3 heads of celery, 
 cut into small bits, and boil for a few minutes in water, 
 then strain it off; put the celery into the melted butter, and 
 keep it stirred over the fire for 5 or 10 minutes. This is 
 very nice with boiled fowl or turkey. 
 
438 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Egg Sauce. — Take the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard; 
 mash them with 1 tea-spoonful of mustard, a little pepper 
 and salt, 3 table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and 3 of sweet oil. A 
 table-spoonful of catsup improves this for some. Nice for 
 boiled fish. 
 
 Tomato Sauce. — 36 ripe tomatoes, 6 green peppers, 2 
 onions chopped fine, 2 cups of sugar, 2 table-spoonfuls of salt, 
 2 tea-spoonfuls of ground cloves, 2 tea-spoonfuls of mustard, 
 2 tea-spoonfuls of cinnamon, and 2 cups of vinegar ; boil half 
 a day. 
 
 Fish Sauce.— I lb. t>f fresh butter, 1 table-spoonful of 
 finely chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper, and the juice 
 of 2 lemons. Cream the butter; mix all well together, 
 adding at the least 1 tea-spoonful of mayonaise. Less lemon 
 juice may be used if preferred. 
 
 Tomato Mustard. — 1 peck of ripe tomatoes; boil with 
 2 onions, 6 red peppers, and 4 cloves of garlic, for 1 hour; 
 then add one-half pt. or one-half lb. salt, 3 table-spoonfuls 
 black pepper, one-half oz. ginger, one-half oz. allspice, 
 one-half oz. mace, one-half oz. cloves ; then boil again for 
 
 1 hour longer, and when cold add 1 pt. vinegar and one- 
 quarter pound of mustard; and if you like it very hot, a 
 table-spoonful of cayenne. 
 
 Horse-Radisk Sauce. — 2 tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, 
 
 2 of white sugar, one-half tea-spoonful of salt, and a gill of 
 vinegar ; mix and pour over grated horse-radish. Excellent 
 with beef. 
 
 French Pudding Sauce. — Beat 4 oz. butter to a 
 cream; stir in one-quarter oz. brown sugar; add the yolk 
 of 1 egg and 1 gill of wine; put it on the stove, stirring all 
 the time till it simmers. Grate nutmeg over it before send- 
 ing it to the table. 
 
SALADS, SAUCES, AND PICKLES. 439 
 
 Tomato Catsup. — Boil the tomatoes until quite soft, and 
 rub them well through a sieve; to every quart add 2 oz. 
 shalots and large red peppers, or 1 tea-spoonful cayenne pep- 
 per, 1 oz. bruised ginger, 1 spoonful salt, a few cloves;; 
 boil until reduced one-third; 10 minutes before taking off 
 the fire add one-half pt. of vinegar to each quart. 
 
 Pickled Cherries. — 5 lbs. of cherries, stoned or not, 1 qt. 
 of vinegar, 2 lbs. of sugar, one-half oz. of cinnamon, one- 
 half oz. of cloves, one-half oz. of mace; boil the sugar and 
 vinegar and spices together, (grind the spices and tie them 
 in a muslin bag), and pour hot over the cherries. 
 
 Spiced Currants to be Eaten with Meats. — 4 qts. cur- 
 rants, 1 pt. of vinegar, 3 lbs. of sugar, 1 table-spoonful cin- 
 namon, 1 of allspice, 1 of cloves, 1 of nutmeg; cook 1 hour; 
 keep in a cool place, tightly covered. 
 
 Green-Tomato Pickles. — Cut one-half pk. of green 
 tomatoes and 6 large onions into thin slices ; let them remain 
 in salt and water over night; then pour off the brine and 
 put them in a preserving kettle with 4 table-spoonfuls of 
 sugar, 4 of the best mustard, two tea-spoonfuls of ground 
 cloves, 2 of cinnamon, 1 of cayenne pepper, and one of 
 curry powder, and let them simmer for 1 hour ; then put 
 them in stone or glass jars. 
 
 Pickled Cabbage. — Select solid heads, slice very fine, put 
 into ajar, cover with boiling water; when cold, drain off 
 the water, and season with grated horse-radish, salt, equal 
 parts of black and red pepper, cinnamon, and cloves whole; 
 cover with strong vinegar. This is convenient and always 
 good. 
 
 Spiced Tomatoes. — To 4 lbs. of large red tomatoes, take 
 2 lbs. of good brown sugar, 1 pt. of cider vinegar, one-half 
 
440 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 oz. cloves, and one-half oz. of stick cinnamon; stew all to- 
 gether in a preserving- kettle until the tomatoes are cooked; 
 take the tomatoes out and put them on dishes to cool, letting 
 the syrup go on simmering slowly ; when the tomatoes are 
 cold, return them to the syrup for a little while; let them 
 become cold before putting them into the jars. The syrup 
 must be boiled down as thick as molasses, and poured cold 
 over the tomatoes; tie them down with bladder or waxed 
 paper. 
 
 Chow Chow. — 2 qts. tomatoes, 2 white onions, one-half 
 doz. green peppers, 1 doz. cucumbers, 2 heads of cabbage, 
 ail chopped line ; let this stand over night ; sprinkle a tea- 
 cup of salt in it. In the morning drain off the brine, and 
 season with 1 table-spoonful celery seed, 1 oz. turmeric, one- 
 half tea-spoonful cayenne pepper, 1 cup brown sugar, 1 oz. 
 cinnamon, 1 oz. allspice, 1 oz. black pepper, one fourth oz. 
 cloves, vinegar enough to cover; boil 2 hours. 
 
 Ripe Tomato Pickles. — To 7 lbs. of ripe tomatoes add 
 3 lbs. sugar, 1 qt. vinegar; boil them together 15 minutes; 
 skim out the tomatoes and boil the syrup a few minutes 
 longer; spice to suit the taste with cloves and cinnamon. 
 
 Tomatoes Whole for Winter Use. — Fill a large stone 
 jar with ripe tomatoes, then add a few whole cloves and a 
 little sugar ; cover them well with one-half cold vinegar and 
 one-half water; place a piece of flannel over the jar, well 
 down into the vinegar, then tie down with paper. I have 
 kept tomatoes in this way the year round, and can cheer- 
 fully recommend them. Should mildew collect on the flan- 
 nel it will not injure the tomatoes in the least. 
 
 Pickled Oysters. — Wash the oysters and scald them in 
 strong salt and water ; skim them out and throw into cold 
 
RELISHES. 441 
 
 water; scald whole peppers well in vinegar ; let it get cold. 
 Put the oysters in a stone jar; make liquor to cover them of 
 the water they were scalded in, and vinegar. A cup of vine- 
 gar to one quart liquor, to be used cold. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs. — Beat up 6 eggs with 2 oz. of butter, 
 1 table-spoonful of cream of new milk, a little chopped pars- 
 ley, and salt ; put all in a saucepan, and keep stirring over 
 the fire until it begins to thicken, when it should be imme- 
 diately dished on buttered toast. 
 
 FrencH Toast. — To 1 egg thoroughly beaten, put 1 
 cup of sweet milk and a little salt. Slice light bread, and 
 dip into the mixture, allowing each slice to absorb some of 
 the milk, then brown on a hot buttered griddle, spread with 
 butter, and serve hot. 
 
 Breakfast Steak. — A nice steak of beef or veal ; pound it, 
 if tough, with a steak mallet ; lay in a baking tin, dredge it 
 lightly with flour, season with salt and pepper, and, if you 
 like, a little chopped parsley ; then put into the oven and 
 bake for 20 or 30 minutes, or until sufficiently well done; 
 put it on the platter, spread with butter. Dredge into the 
 juices of the meat in the baking pan a little flour, and sea- 
 son with butter ; let this boil up and pour over the steak. 
 This is very nice. 
 
 A Nice Breakfast Dish. — Mince cold beef or lamb; if 
 beef, put in a pinch of pulverized cloves; if lamb, a pinch 
 of summer savory to season it, very little pepper and some 
 salt, and put it into a baking dish ; mash potatoes and mix 
 them with cream and butter and a little salt, and spread 
 
442 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 them over the meat; beat up an egg with cream or milk, a 
 very little; spread it over the potatoes, and bake it a short 
 time, sufficient to warm it through and brown the potatoes. 
 Bice Cakes. — 1 tea-cup of soft boiled rice, the yolk of 
 1 egg, a pinch of salt, 2 table-spoonfuls of sifted flour, beaten 
 well, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and gravy ; lay pie crust 
 round the edge of the platter, and cover the same; bake a 
 nice brown in the oven. 
 
 To Steiv Mushrooms. — Peel them and put them to stew 
 in some milk till tender; when sufficiently done, add to them 
 some butter and flour mixed together, a little cayenne, and 
 some salt; part cream instead of milk will improve them. 
 
 Excellent Omelet. — 6 eggs, whites and yolks beaten sep- 
 arately; one-half pint of milk, 6 tea-spoonfuls of corn 
 starch, 1 tea-spoonful of baking powder, and a little salt; 
 add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth, last; cook in a little 
 butter. 
 
 Cheese Scollop. — Soak 1 cup of dry bread crumbs in 
 fresh milk. Beat into this 3 eggs; add 1 table-spoonful of 
 butter and one-half pound of grated cheese; strew upon the 
 top sifted bread crumbs, and bake in the oven a delicate 
 brown. An excellent relish when eaten with thin slices of 
 bread and butter. 
 
 White Corn Bread. — 1 pt. of meal thoroughly scalded 
 with hard boiling water; butter the size of an egg, and 1 
 well-beaten egg; add milk to make it just thin enough to 
 flow over the pan. Have the batter an inch thick, and then 
 bake. 
 
 tr-G == S&>'<&^=5-* 
 
PUDDINGS. 443 
 
 "fTtihbi itcp. 
 
 Suet Puddings. — 2 cups of chopped suet, 2 of raisins, 2 
 of molasses, 4 of flour, 1 of milk, 3 tea-spoonfuls of baking- 
 powder; boil 3§ hours; eat while hot. Sauce for same: 1 
 cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, 1 egg, 1 table-spoonful 
 of wine or vinegar; beat 15 minutes and heat to a scald. 
 
 English Fruit Pudding. — 1 lb. currants, 1 lb. stoned 
 raisins, 1 lb. sugar, 1 lb. suet, 2 lbs. grated or soaked bread, 6 
 eggs, one-half tea-spoonful saleratus, 1 tea-spoonful salt, and 
 ] grated nutmeg; crumb the soft part of the bread fine; soak 
 the crust with boiling milk, or water will do; beat up the 
 eggs and put all together, mix thoroughly with the hands; 
 take a square piece of cotton cloth and lay it in a tin pan, 
 put the pudding into the cloth and tie down close; put into 
 a pot of boiling water, and boil 5 hours ; as the water boils 
 away, keep adding more. 
 
 Chocolate Pudding. — 1 qt. milk, 3 table-spoonfuls sugar, 
 4 table-spoonfuls corn starch, 2| table-spoonfuls chocolate; 
 scald the milk over hot water; dissolve the corn starch in a 
 little scalded milk, and before it thickens add the chocolate 
 dissolved in boiling water; stir until sufficiently cooked. 
 "Use with cream, or sauce of butter and sugar stirred to a 
 cream. 
 
 Cottage Pudding. — 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of sweet milk, 
 1 pt. of flour, 2 table-spoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tea-spoon- 
 ful of soda, 2 tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, 1 egg. 
 
 Mice and Apple Pudding. — 1 cup rice boiled very soft, 
 stir well to keep from burning; 8 large apples, stewed; 
 press the pulp through a sieve, mix it thoroughly with the 
 rice; add half a tea-spoonful of butter and yolks of two eggs 
 
444 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 well beaten; sweeten to taste. Bake. Beat the whites of 
 the eggs and put on top. It is nicer almost cold. 
 
 Baked Indian Pudding. — 2 qts. scalded milk with salt, 
 1| cups Indian meal (yellow); 1 table-spoonful of ginger, 
 letting this stand 20 minutes; 1 cup molasses, 2 eggs (sal- 
 eratus, if no eggs), a piece of butter the size of a common 
 walnut. Bake 2 hours. Splendid. 
 
 Sago and Apple Pudding. — Boil a cup of sago in 
 water with a little cinnamon, a cup of sugar, lemon fla- 
 voring; cut apples into thin slices, mix them with the sago; 
 after it is well boiled, add a small piece of butter ; pour into 
 pudding dish and bake half an hour. 
 
 Orange Pudding. — Peel and cut five good oranges into 
 thin slices, taking out all seeds; put over them a coffee cup 
 of fine white sugar. Let a pint of milk get boiling hot, by 
 setting in hot water; add the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten, 
 1 table-spoonful of corn starch made smooth in a little cold 
 milk ; stir all the time, and as soon as it thickens pour it over 
 the fruit. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, add a table-spoon- 
 ful of sugar, and spread it over the top for frosting ; set in 
 the oven a minute to harden. Can be eaten hot, but is best 
 cold. 
 
 Floating Island. — Put a quart of milk to boil, su- 
 gar, salt, and flavoring to taste; separate 3 eggs; beat the 
 whites to a stiff froth ; drop them in the boiling milk from 
 a table-spoon, letting them remain half a second; then 
 take 2£ table-spoonfuls of corn starch ; put it into the boil- 
 ing milk, let it remain 5 minutes, then add the yolks, let 
 it boil 2 minutes, and take it off to cool, then place it in 
 a glass dish, and drop the whites upon it with a spoonful 
 of currant jelly on each. 
 
PUDDING SAUCES AND PIES. 445 
 
 *CtK><Vt44,Cl Sci/wceo. 
 
 Wine Sauce. — 2 tea-cups of sugar, 1 tea-cup of butter, 
 stir to a cream, beat 2 eggs very light, and stir all together, 
 add 1 cup of wine, mix and set on top of tea-kettle of boil- 
 ing water. It must not be put on the stove, nor boil. 
 
 Pudding Sauce. — 2 eggs well beaten, 1 cup pulverized 
 sugar. When mixed pour over 1 cup boiling milk, and stir 
 rapidly. Flavor as you please. 
 
 Hard Sauce for Pudding, Rice, etc. — Take 1 tea-cup 
 sugar, one-half tea-cup butter, stir together until light, fla- 
 vor with wine or essence of lemon. Smooth the top with a 
 knife, and grate nutmeg over it. 
 
 Fine Puff Pastry. — 1 lb. of flour, a little more for roll- 
 ing-pin and board, and half a pound of butter and half a 
 pound of lard. Cut the butter and lard through the flour 
 (which should be sifted) into small thin shells and mix with 
 sufficient ice- water to roll easily. Avoid kneading it, and 
 use the hands as little as possible in mixing. 
 
 Plainer Pastry. — 1 cup of butter, 1 cup of lard, a little 
 salt, cut through the flour and mix lightly together. Some 
 cooks mix the lard through the flour first, and then mix 
 with water and roll out. Cut the batter into thin sheets, 
 fold over and lay aside, cutting off from the roll what 
 is used for the bottom or top crust as wanted. 
 
 Lemon Pie. — The juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 cup 
 of water, 1 table-spoonful corn starch, 1 cup sugar, 1 egg, 
 
44<3 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 and a piece of butter tbe size of a small egg ; boil the water, 
 wet the corn starch with a little cold water and stir it in ; 
 when it boils up, pour it on the sugar and butter; after it 
 cools add the egg and lemon. Bake with upper and under 
 crust. 
 
 Pumpkin Pie. — 1 qt. of strained pumpkins, 2 qts. 
 rich milk, 1 tea-spoonful of salt, and 2 of ginger, cooked 
 with the pumpkins; 6 well -beaten eggs, and 1| tea-cups of 
 sugar. 
 
 Mince Pie. — 3 cups chopped cooked meat, 6 cups of 
 apples chopped fine; make moist with boiled cider and 
 sweeten with molasses or dark sugar; spice to your tast<- 
 nsing cloves, cinnamon, allspice, and a very little black 
 pepper; put currents and raisins into the pies when ready 
 to bake. 
 
 Another: — 3 lbs. of raisins, stone and chop them a 
 little; 3 lbs. of currants, 3 lbs. of sugar, 3 lbs. of suet 
 chopped very fine, 2 oz. candied lemon peel, 2 oz. of 
 candied orange peel, 6 large apples grated, 1 oz. of cinna- 
 mon, 2 nutmegs, the juice and grated rinds of three lemons, 
 and one-half pt. of bran fly. Excellent. 
 
 Rhubarb Pie. — 1 cup of stewed pie-plant, 1 cup of sugar, 
 1 table-spoonful of flour, yolk of 1 egg; flavor with lemon; 
 beat all together thoroughly. Do n't use pie-plant too hot 
 for fear it will cook the egg. Bake with just an under 
 crust, and use the white of an egg for frosting. 
 
 Cocoanut Pit.— One-half lb. of grated eocoanut, three- 
 quarters of a pound of white sugar, 6 ounces of butter, 5 
 eggs (the whites only), 2 table-spoonfuls rose-water, 1 tea- 
 spoonful nutmeg. Cream the butter and sugar, beat till 
 very light, and add the rose-water; then add the cocoanut 
 
HOW TO MAKE PIES. 
 
 447 
 
 with as little and light beating as possible; final ly whip in 
 the stiffened whites of the eggs with a few skillful strokes 
 and bake at once in open shells. Eat cold with powdered 
 sugar sifted over them. These are very pretty and delicic >us 
 pies. 
 
 Cream Pie. — Boil nearly 1 pint of new milk; take 2 
 small table-spoonfuls of corn starch beaten with a little milk 
 to this add 2 eggs; when the milk has boiled, stir this in 
 slowly with 1 scant tea-cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, 
 and 2 tea-spoonfuls of lemon. Cakes: 3 eggs, 1 cup of 
 white sugar, 1-J- cups of flour, 1 tea-spoonful of baking 
 powder, mix it in flour; 3 table-spoonfuls of cold water; 
 bake in two pie pans in a quick oven; split the cake while 
 hot, and spread in the cream. 
 
 Cranberry Tart. — Take cranberries, pick and wash 
 them in several waters, and put them into a dish with the 
 juice of half a lemon, one-quarter of a pound of moist sugar 
 or pounded loaf sugar to 1 qt. of cranberries; cover it with 
 puff paste or short crust, and bake it three-quarters of an 
 hour. If short crust is used, draw it from the oven 5 
 minutes before it is done, and ice it; return it to the oven, 
 and send it to the table cold. 
 
 Custard Pie. — Make a custard of the yolks of 3 eggs 
 with milk, season to taste; bake it in an ordinary crust; 
 put it in a brick oven, that the crust may not be heavy, 
 and as soon as that is heated remove it to a place in an 
 oven of a more moderate heat, that the custard may bake 
 slowly and not curdle; when done, beat the whites to a 
 froth; add sugar and spread over the top, and return to th. ■ 
 oven to brown slightly; a small pinch of salt added to a cus- 
 tard heightens the flavor; a little soda in the crust prevents 
 it from beino; heavy. Very nice. 
 
448 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Rice Custard. — To half a cup of rice, add 1 qt. of milk 
 and a little salt; steam 1 hour, or until quite soft; beat the 
 yolks of 4 eggs with 4 table-spoonfuls of white sugar; add 
 this just before taking off the rice; stir in thoroughly, but 
 do not let it boil any more ; flavor with vanilla. Beat the 
 whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, with sugar ; after putting 
 the mixture into the pudding dish in which you serve it, 
 put the whites over it, and let it slightly brown in the oven. 
 
 Boiled Custard. — 2 table-spoonfuls of corn starch to 1 
 qt. of milk; mix the corn starch with a small quantity of 
 the milk and flavor it ; beat up 2 eggs. Heat the remainder 
 of the milk to near boiling, then add the mixed corn starch, 
 the eggs, 4 table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little butter and salt. 
 Boil it 2 minutes, stirring briskly. 
 
 Apple Custard. — Take 6 tart apples, pare and quarter 
 them, put into a baking dish with 1 cup of water ; cook until 
 tender, but not to pieces, then turn them into a pudding 
 dish and sprinkle sugar over to cover them ; beat 8 eggs 
 with sugar, mix with them 3 pts. of milk and a little nut- 
 meg; turn it over the apples, and bake 25 minutes. 
 
 Trifle. — Slice sponge cake into thin layers spread with 
 jam, soak in brandy or wine; put into a deep dish; make a 
 thin custard of 1 qt. milk and 3 eggs; sweeten to taste, 
 and pour over the cake. Take one-quarter pound almonds, 
 pour boiling water on them so as to remove the peel, cut 
 fine, and sprinkle over the custard; take 1 pt. of cream, 
 whipped and sweetened, and lay over the custard. 
 
 Cocoanut Drops. — To one grated cocoanut, add half its 
 
BREAD-MAKING. (,49 
 
 weight in sugar and the white of one egg, cut to a stiff 
 froth; mix thoroughly and drop on buttered white paper or 
 tin sheets. Bake 15 minutes. 
 
 A Nice Dessert Dish, — Fill a quart bowl with alternate 
 layers of thinly sliced red apples and sugar, and add half a 
 cup of water, cover with a saucer, held in place by a 
 weight; bake slowly three hours; let it stand until cold, 
 and you will turn out a round mass of clear red slices, im- 
 bedded in firm jelly. For an accompaniment to a dessert 
 of blanc mange, rennet custard, cold rice pudding, or sim- 
 ilar dishes, or even with nice bread and butter, there is 
 nothing better. 
 
 Chocolate Caramels. — 1 cup of grated chocolate, 3 cups 
 of sugar, 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup of milk, and a small piece 
 of butter. Boil for about 20 minutes, stirring all the time ; 
 pour into a buttered pan, and when nearly cold mark off in 
 small squares. 
 
 Cliarlotte Russe. — Take 1 qt. of thin cream, sweeten and 
 flavor, whip the cream until all is a froth ; then take half a 
 box of gelatine, put in as little cold water as possible to soak, 
 and set on the stove to melt; let the gelatine cool before 
 putting into the "cream. Have a dish ready lined with 
 cake or lady-fingers, pour the cream into it. and set on ice 
 until ready for use. 
 
 In the composition of good bread there are three impor- 
 tant requisites, — good flour, good yeast, and strength to 
 knead it well. Flour should be white and dry, crumbling 
 easily again after it is pressed in the hand. 
 
 29 
 
450 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 A very good method of ascertaining the quality of yeast 
 will be to add a little flour to a very small quantity, setting 
 it in a warm place. If in the course of 10 or 15 minutes 
 it rises, it will do to use. 
 
 When you make bread, first set the sponge with warm 
 milk or water, keeping it in a warm place until quite light. 
 Then mold this sponge by adding flour into one large loaf, 
 kneading it well. Set this to rise again, and when suffi- 
 ciently light mold it into smaller loaves, let it rise again, 
 then bake. Care should be taken not to get the dough too 
 stiff with flour; it should be as soft as it can be to knead 
 well. To make bread or biscuits a nice color, wet the dough 
 over the top with water just before putting into the oven. 
 The flour should always be sifted. 
 
 Yeast. — 6 good potatoes grated raw, a little hop tea, 1 
 qt. of boiling water, three-fourths cup of brown sugar, one- 
 half tea-spoonful of salt; when cold, add yeast to make it 
 rise. Keep it covered and in a cool place. 
 
 Another. — Put 2 table-spoonfuls of hops into a muslin 
 bag and boil them in 3 qts. of water for a few minutes; 
 have ready 1 qt. of hot mashed potatoes, put in 1 cup of 
 flour, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, and 1 of salt; pour over the 
 mixture the boiling hop water, strain through a colander, 
 put 1 pt. or less of fresh baker's yeast, or 2 cakes of yeast, 
 in while it is warm, and set it in a warm place to rise. This 
 yeast will keep 8 or 4 weeks, if set in a cool place. In mak- 
 ing it from time to time, use a bowl of the same to raise the 
 fresh with. 
 
 Boston Brown Bread. — To make 1 loaf: Rye meal un- 
 sifted, half a pt. ; Indian meal sifted, 1 pt. ; sour milk 1 pt. ; 
 molasses half a gill. Add 1 tea-spoonful of salt, 1 tea-spoon- 
 
BBEAD-MAKING. 45 1 
 
 fill of soda dissolved in a little hot water, stir well, put in 
 a greased pan, let it rise 1 hour, and steam 4 hours. 
 
 Bread. — Take 4 qts. of sifted flour, 1 tea-cupful of yeast, 
 a pinch of salt, and wet with warm milk and water till stiff 
 enough to knead. Work it on the board until it requires no 
 more flour. If made at night the bread will be liffht enough 
 to work over and put in pans early in the morning. This 
 quantity will make two large loaves. One-third of the 
 lump may be taken for rolls, which can bo made by work- 
 ing in butter the size of an egg, and setting aside to rise 
 again; when light the second time make out in oblong 
 shapes; cover them with a cloth and let them rise again. 
 As soon as they break apart, bake in a quick oven. They 
 will not fail to be nice if they are baked as soon as they 
 seam. This is the great secret of white, flaky rolls. Two 
 or three potatoes will improve the bread. Good housekeep- 
 ers always have flour sifted in readiness for use, and never 
 use it in any other way. 
 
 Muffins. — 1 table-spoonful of butter, 2 table-spoonfuls 
 sugar, 2 eggs; stir all together; add 1 cup of sweet milk, 
 3 tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, flour to make a stiff bat- 
 ter. Bake 20 minutes in a quick oven. 
 
 Waffles. — 1 qt. of sweet or sour milk, 4 eggs, two- thirds 
 of a cup of butter, one-half a tea-spoonful of salt, 3 tea-spoon- 
 fuls of baking powder ; flour enough to make a nice batter. 
 If you use sour milk leave out the baking powder and use 2 
 tea-spoonfuls of soda. Splendid. 
 
 Corn Bread. — One-half pt. of buttermilk, one-half pt. 
 of sweet milk, sweeten the sour milk with one-half tea- 
 spoonful of soda; beat 2 eggs, whites and yolks together; 
 pour the milk into the eggs, then thicken with about 9 table- 
 
452 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 spoonfuls of sifted corn meal. Put the pan on the stove 
 with a piece of lard the size of an egg ; when melted, pour 
 it in the batter. By stirring this lard it will grease the pan 
 to bake in. Add a tea-spoonful of salt. 
 
 Graham Biscuits. — 1 qt. of Graham flour, oh heaping 
 tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, 1 tea-spoonful of salt, and 1 
 of butter. Make into soft dough with milk. 
 
 Soda Biscuits. — To each qt. of flour add 1 table-spoon- 
 ful of shortening, one-half tea-spoonful of salt, and 3| heap- 
 ing tea-spoonfuls of good baking powder; mix baking 
 powder thoroughly through the flour, then add the other 
 ingredients. Do not knead, and bake quick. To use 
 cream tartar and soda, take the same proportions without 
 the baking powder, using instead 2 heaping tea-spoonfuls 
 cream tartar and 1 of soda. If good they will bake in five 
 minutes. 
 
 Strawberry Shortcake. — Make good biscuit crust, bake 
 in two tins of same shape and size, mix berries with plenty 
 of sugar, open the shortcake, butter well and place the berries 
 in layers, alternated with the crust; have the top layer of 
 berries, and over all put charlotte russe or whipped cream. 
 
 Orange Shortcake. — Make a nice shortcake, spread in 
 layers of sliced oranges with sugar and a little cream. To 
 be eaten with sweetened cream. 
 
 Apple Fritters. — 1 tea-cupful of sweet milk, 1 table- 
 spoonful of sweet light dough, dissolved in milk, 3 eggs 
 beaten separately, 1 tea-spoonful of salt, lj tea-cupfuls of 
 flour, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, the grated peel of a lemon, 
 and peeled apples sliced without the core. Drop into hot 
 lard with a piece of apple in each one, and sprinkle with 
 powdered or spiced sugar. Let them stand after making 
 and they will be lighter. Good. 
 
BREAD-MAKING. 453 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes. — 1 qt. of buckwheat flour, one-half 
 a tea-cupful of corn meal or wheat flour, a little salt, and 
 2 table-spoonfuls of syrup. "Wet these with cold or warm 
 water to a thin batter, and add, lastly, 4 good table-spoon- 
 fuls of baking powder. 
 
 Fritters. — 1 pt. sweet milk, 4 eggs, 1 qt. flour and 3 
 tea-spoonfuls baking powder sifted together. Serve warm 
 with maple syrup. 
 
 Rolls. — To the quantity of light bread dough that you 
 would take for twelve persons, add the white of 1 egg well 
 beaten, 2 table-spoonfuls of white sugar, and 2 table-spoonfuls 
 of butter ; work these thoroughly together ; roll out about 
 one-half an inch thick; cut the size desired, and spread one 
 with melted butter and lay another upon the top of it. 
 Bake delicately, when they have risen. 
 
 French Rolls. — 1 qt. flour, 2 eggs, one-half pt. milk, 1 
 table-spoonful of yeast, knead well ; let it rise till morning. 
 Work in 1 oz. of butter and mold in rolls; bake imme- 
 diately. 
 
 Cream, Cakes. — 6 eggs, beaten separately, one-half pt. of 
 sour cream, 1 pt. of sweet milk, 1 and one-half tea-spoonfuls 
 of baking powder, flour enough to make a thin batter; bake 
 in cups. 
 
 Mush. — Indian or oatmeal mush is best made in the fol- 
 lowing manner : Put fresh water in a kettle over the fire to 
 boil, and put in some salt; when the water boils, stir in 
 handful by handful corn or oatmeal until thick enough for 
 use. In order to have excellent mush, the meal should be 
 allowed to cook well, and long as possible while thin, and 
 before the final handful is added. When desired to be fried 
 for breakfast, turn into an earthen dish and set away to 
 
454 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 cool. Then cut in slices when you wish to fry; dip each 
 piece in beaten eggs and fry on a hot griddle. 
 
 In making cake, it is very desirable that the materials be 
 of the finest quality. Sweet, fresh butter, eggs, and good 
 flour are the first essentials. The process of putting together 
 is also quite an important feature, and where other methods 
 are not given in this work by contributors, it would be well 
 for the young housekeeper to observe the following direc- 
 tions : Never allow the butter to oil, but soften it by putting 
 it in a moderately warm place before you commence other 
 preparations for your cake ; then put it into an earthen dish 
 (tin, if not new, will discolor your cake as you stir it) and add 
 your sugar; beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the 
 yolks of the eggs, then the milk, and lastly the beaten whites 
 of the eggs and flour. Spices and liquors may be added after 
 the yolks of the eggs are put in, and fruit should be put in 
 with the flour. 
 
 The oven should be pretty hot for small cakes, and mod- 
 erate for larger. To ascertain if a large cake is sufficiently 
 baked, pierce it with a broom-straw through the center; if 
 done, the straw wall come out free from dough ; if not done, 
 dough will adhere to the straw. Take it out of the tin 
 about fifteen minutes after it is taken from the oven, not 
 sooner, and do not turn it over on the top to cool. 
 
 Icing. — The following rules should be observed where 
 boiled icing is not used: — 
 
 Put the whites of your eggs in a shallow earthen dish, 
 
RECIPES FOE CAKE. 4; 
 
 
 and allow at least a quarter of a lb., or sixteen table-spoon- 
 fuls, of the finest white sugar for each egg. Take part of 
 the sugar at first and sprink. ] « over the eggs ; beat them for 
 about half an hour, stirring in gradually the rest of the 
 sugar, then add the flavor. If you use the juice of a lemon, 
 allow more sugar. Tartaric acid and lemon juice whiten 
 icing. It may be shaded a pretty pink with strawberry 
 syrup, or colored yellow by putting the juice and rind of a 
 lemon in a thick muslin bag and squeezing it hard into the 
 egg and sugar. 
 
 If the cake is well dredged with flour after baking, and 
 then carefully wiped before the icing is put on, it will not 
 run, and can be spread more smoothly. Put frosting on the 
 cake in large spoonfuls, commencing at the center, then 
 spread it over the cake with a large knife, dipping it occa- 
 sionally in cold water. Dry the frosting on the cake in a 
 cool dry place. 
 
 Boiled Icing. — 1 pt. granulated sugar, moisten thor- 
 oughly with water sufficient to dissolve it when heated, and 
 let it boil until it threads from the spoon, stirring often; 
 while the sugar is boiling, beat the whites of 2 eggs till they 
 are firm, then when thoroughly beaten, turn them into a 
 deep dish, and when the sugar is boiled, turn it over the 
 whites, beating all together rapidly until of the right con- 
 sistency to spread over the cake. Flavor with lemon, if pre- 
 ferred. This is sufficient for two loaves. 
 
 Chocolate Cake. — 1 cup of butter, 1 cup of milk, 3 cups 
 of sugar, 4 cups of flour, 6 eggs, 1 tea-spoonful of soda. 2 
 tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar; bake in layers like jelly 
 cake. Icing for cake, to place between: 1 cup of sugar, 1 
 cake of chocolate, and the whites of 2 eggs whipped together 
 
456 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Cocoanut Cake. — 1 cup of butter, 3 of sugar, 1 of milk, 
 4 of flour, 1 tea-spoonful of soda, 2 of cream of tartar, 5 
 eggs; bake in layers like jelly cake. Icing to place be- 
 tween the layers : Half a lb. of white sugar to the whites of 
 2 eggs, whip the eggs, add the grated cocoanut, and place 
 between the layers. 
 
 Wedding Cake. — 5 lbs. of seeded raisins, 2 lbs of cur- 
 rants, 1 lb. of citron, 12 eggs, 1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of sugar 
 (brown), 1 coffee-cup of molasses, a little brandy, 1 tea-cup 
 of spices. 
 
 Cheap Good Cake. — 1 cup of sugar, one-fourth cup of 
 butter, three-fourths cup of cold water, If cups of flour, 
 whites of 2 eggs, 1 tea-spoonful of lemon, baking powder 
 used. 
 
 Gold Cake. — One-half cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 
 one-half cup of milk, 3 of flour, 3 tea-spoonfuls of baking 
 powder, and yolks of 4 eggs. 
 
 For the silver cake use the same recipe, only in place of 
 the yolks of eggs use the whites of 4 eggs. 
 
 For marble cake, same recipe, using 1 cup of brown 
 sugar, 1 cup of molasses, and some spices, and drop it in the 
 dish on the white cake or silver recipe. 
 
 Jelly Cake. — 3 eggs, 1 small tea-cupful of sugar, 1 cup 
 of flour, whites and yolks of the eggs beaten together; flavor, 
 and bake in 2 layers, in a quick oven. 
 
 Fruit Cake. — 2 lbs. of stoned raisins, 2 lbs. of currants, 
 1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of sugar, 1\ lbs. of flour, 10 eggs, 1 
 wine-glass of brandy, 1 wine-glass of wine, 1 table-spoonful 
 of cloves, 1 table-spoonful of allspice, 2 table-spoonfuls of 
 cinnamon, 1 nutmeg, 1 tea-spoonful of sweet almond meats 
 blanched and cut in slices, 2 oz. of candied lemon, 2 oz. of 
 
RECIPES FOR CAKE. 4.") 7 
 
 citron; a little molasses improves it, nearly a tea-cupful; 
 flour the fruit, using that weighed out for the cake ; put a 
 half tea-spoonful of soda or 1 tea-spoonful of baking-powder 
 with it on the fruit; bake 3 hours, slowly. 
 
 Frosting for Cake. — 1 cup frosting sugar, 2 table-spoon 
 fuls of water, boiled together ; take it off the stove and stir 
 in the white of 1 egg beaten to a stiff froth ; stir all together 
 well ; then frost your cake with it, and you will never want 
 a nicer frosting than this. 
 
 Cream Filled Cakes. — These delicious cakes are very 
 easily made if care is taken to have the water boiling. 
 Measure out one-half pt. and put in a small kettle; immedi- 
 ately after it comes to a boil again put in two-thirds of a 
 cup of butter and 1 and one-half cups of flour; stir briskly 
 for a moment, leaving it over the fire ; remove this mixture 
 and place in a dish where it will get entirely cold; beat 5 
 large fresh eggs very thoroughly, then stir in your cold 
 mixture a spoonful at a time; stir it all until smooth and 
 free from lumps ; drop them upon a greased dripping-pan in 
 small pear-shaped cakes; bake half an hour in a real hot 
 oven; don't be afraid they will burn unless you see them 
 doing so. When done they will be hollow inside, of a bright 
 brown color ; if not well done they will flatten. The oven 
 must be hot when you put them in, and if kept so success is 
 sure. 
 
 Filling or Cream : Put a little more than 1 pt. of milk 
 in a pail and set it in boiling water; beat 2 eggs, two-thirds 
 cup of corn starch, one full cup sugar, one-half tea-spoonful 
 salt, and some vanilla, thoroughly together; add a full half 
 cup of milk, and stir all into yoar boiling milk; it should be 
 very thick; cut open your cakes near the bottom and fill 
 very full of cream; be sure the cream is cold. 
 
458 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 efces<. 
 
 Glittering squares of colored ice, 
 
 Sweetened with syrups, tinctured with spice ; 
 
 Creams, and cordials, and sugared dates ; 
 
 Syrian apples, Othmanee quinces, 
 
 Limes and citrons and apricots, 
 
 And wines that are known to Eastern princes. 
 
 And all that the curious palate could wish, 
 
 Pass in and out of the cedarn doors. — T. B. Aldrich. 
 
 Directions for Freezing. — Use 1 part of coarse table 
 salt to 2 parts of ice broken into pieces about the 
 size of a walnut. This should be firmly packed around 
 the cream pail to the height of the freezer. For 3 pints of 
 cream, 1| pints of water should be poured over the ice in 
 the freezer, and for every additional quart of cream 1 pint 
 of water should be added to the ice after packing. When 
 there is no ice-cream freezer convenient, ices may be frozen 
 by putting the cream to be frozen in a tin pail with a close 
 cover. The ice and salt for packing may be put into a larger 
 pail and packed firmly around the pail of cream to be frozen. 
 Let this stand to chill for 20 or 30 minutes, then remove the 
 cover and stir the freezing mixture within until stiff. Then 
 repack, cover the whole closely with a woolen cloth or car- 
 pet and leave for an hour or two in a cool place. 
 
 Currant Ice. — 1 pt. of currant juice, 1 lb. of sugar, and 
 1 pt. of water; put into freezer, and when partly frozen add 
 the whites of 3 eggs well beaten. 
 
 Orange and Lemon Ices. — The rind of 3 oranges grated 
 and steeped a few moments in a little more than a pint 
 of water; strain one pint of this on a pound of sugar and 
 
PRESERVING AND CANNING FRUITS. .*;!) 
 
 then add 1 pint of orange or lemon juice; pour into the 
 freezer, and when half frozen add the whites of four eo-cr S 
 beaten to a stiff froth. 
 
 Strawberry Ice-Cream. — Mash with a potato pounder in 
 an earthen bowl, 1 qt. of strawberries with 1 lb. of sugar, 
 rub it through the colander and add 1 qt. of sweet cream 
 and freeze. Very ripe peaches or coddled apples may be 
 used instead of strawberries. 
 
 Ice-Cream. — 1 pt. milk, yolks of 2 eggs, 6 oz. sugar, 1 
 table-spoonful corn starch; scald until it thickens; when 
 cool, add 1 pt. whipped cream and the whites of 2 eggs 
 beaten stiff. Sweeten to taste, flavor and freeze. 
 
 " Fruit of all kinds, in coat 
 Rough, or smooth rind, or bearded husk, or shell, 
 She gathers tribute large, and on the board 
 Heaps with unsparing hand." — Paradise Lost. 
 
 Bring me berries, or such cooling fruit 
 
 As the kind, hospitable woods provide. — Coioper. 
 
 Fruits for preserving should be carefully selected, remov- 
 ing all that are imperfect. They are in the best condition 
 when not fully ripe, and as soon as possible after they are 
 picked. Small fruits should not be allowed to stand over 
 night after they are picked when they are to be preserved 
 Use only the finest sugar for preserving. When fruit is 
 sealed in glass cans, wrap paper of two or three thicknesses 
 around the cans. The chemical action of light will affect 
 the quality of the preserves when perfectly air-tight. With 
 this precaution, glass cans are preferable to any other for 
 
460 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 preserving fruit. One-half a pound of sugar to a pound of 
 fruit, is a good rule for canned fruit, although many house- 
 keepers use but one-quarter of a pound of sugar to a pound 
 of fruit. 
 
 An excellent rule for canning the larger fruits, as peaches, 
 pears, etc., is to place them in a steamer over a kettle of boil- 
 ing water, first laying a cloth in the bottom of the steamer. 
 Fill this with the fruit and cover tightly. Let them steam 
 for 15 minutes, or until they can be easily pierced with 
 a fork, (some fruits will require a longer time). Make a 
 syrup of sugar of the right consistency. As the fruit is 
 steamed, drop each for a moment into the syrup, place 
 in the cans, having each one-half full of fruit, and fill 
 up with the hot syrup, then cover and seal. 
 
 Preserved Peaches. — Select Peaches of fine quality and 
 firm. If too ripe they are not likely to keep perfectly. 
 Pare and place them in a steamer over boiling water 
 and cover tightly; an earthen plate placed in the steamer 
 under the fruit will preserve the juices which afterward 
 may be strained and added to the syrup. Let them steam 
 for 15 minutes or until they can be easily pierced with 
 a fork ; make a syrup of the first quality of sugar, and as 
 the fruit is steamed, drop each peach into the syrup for a few 
 seconds, then take out and place in the cans; when the cans 
 are full, pour the hot syrup over the fruit, and seal immedi- 
 ately. Inexperienced house-wives will do well to remember 
 that the syrup should be well skimmed before being poured 
 over the fruit. We prefer the proportions of half a pound of 
 sugar to a pound of fruit for canning, although many excel- 
 lent house-keepers use less. This rule is excellent for all the 
 large fruits — as pears, quinces, apples, etc. 
 
PRESERVING AND CANNING FRUITS. 41; | 
 
 Preserved Pears. — To 6 lbs. of pears, 4 lbs. of sugar, 2 
 coffee cups of water, add the juice of 2 lemons, and the rind of 
 1, a handful of whole ginger ; boil all together for 20 minutes, 
 then put in your pears and boil till soft, say about a quarter 
 of an hour. Take them out and boil your syrup a little 
 longer. Then put back your fruit and give it a boil ; bottle 
 while hot, adding a little cochineal to give it a nice color. 
 
 Preserved Apples. — Weigh equal quantities of good 
 brown sugar and apples ; peel, core, and cut the apples into 
 small square pieces ; make a syrup of 1 pt. of water to 3 lbs. 
 of sugar, boil until pretty thick, then add the apples, the 
 grated peel of a lemon or two, a little whole white ginger 
 (if liked) ; boil until the apples are clear and begin to fall. 
 
 Preserved Cherries. — Stone the fruit, weigh it, and for 
 every pound take three-fourths pound sugar. First dissolve 
 the sugar in water in the proportion of 1 pt. of water to 1\ 
 lbs. of sugar; then add the fruit and let it boil as fast as 
 possible for half an hour, till it begins to jelly. As soon as 
 it thickens put into pots, cover with brandied paper, next the 
 fruit, and then cover closely from the air. 
 
 Canned Cherries. — Prepare in the same manner, allow- 
 ing but half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit; after 
 putting the fruit into the syrup let it scald (not boil hard) 
 for 10 or 15 minutes, and then can and seal. A few 
 of the cherry stones tied in a muslin bag and put into the 
 syrup to scald with the fruit, impart a fine flavor ; they should 
 not be put into the jars with the fruit. This method is excel- 
 lent for use with all the small fruits, as strawberries, rasp- 
 berries, and also plums. 
 
 Canned Strawberries. — After the berries are pulled, let 
 as many as can be put carefully into the preserving kettle at 
 
462 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 once, be placed on a platter. To each pound of fruit add 
 three-fourths of a pound of sugar; let them stand 2 or 3 
 hours, till the juice is drawn from them ; pour it into the ket- 
 tle and let it come to a boil, removing the scum which 
 rises; then put in the berries very carefully. As soon as 
 they come to a boil, put them into warm jars, and seal while 
 boiling hot. 
 
 Quince Preserves. — Pare, core, and quarter your fruit, 
 then weigh it and allow an equal quantity of white sugar. 
 Take the peelings and cores and put into a preserving kettle; 
 cover them with water and boil for half an hour ; then strain 
 through a hair sieve and put the juice back into the kettle 
 and boil the quinces in it a little at a time until they are 
 tender; lift out as they are done with a drainer and lay on 
 a dish; if the liquid seems scarce, add more water. When 
 all are done throw in the sugar and allow it to boil 10 min- 
 utes before putting in the quinces ; let them boil until they 
 change color, say 1^ hours, on a slow fire; while they are 
 boiling, occasionally slip a silver spoon under them to see 
 that they do not burn, but on no account stir them. Have 
 two fresh lemons cut in thin slices, and when the fruit is 
 being put in jars, lay a slice or two in each. 
 
 Canned Tomatoes. — Wash your tomatoes, and cut out 
 any places that are green or imperfect; then cut them up 
 and put over to cook with a little salt; boil them till per- 
 fectly soft, then strain through a colander; turn them 
 back to cook, and when they have come to boiling heat, 
 pour them into stone jugs (one or two gallon jugs, as you 
 prefer). They will keep a day or two in winter if all are 
 not used at a time; put the cork in, and have some canning 
 cement hot and pour over the cork. The jug must, of course, 
 be hot when the tomatoes are poured in. 
 
PEE SERVING AND CANNING FRUITS. n;;; 
 
 Artificial Honey. — Mix together 10 lbs. white sugar, 
 2 lbs. clear bees' honey, 1 qt. hot water, half an ounce of 
 cream tartar ; when cool, flavor with 2 or 3 drops otto of roses 
 and sprinkle in a handful of clear yellow honey-comb broken 
 up. This will deceive the best judges, and is perfectly 
 healthful. 
 
 Grape Jam. — Take your grapes, separate the skin frorn 
 the pulp, keeping them in separate dishes, put the pulps into 
 your preserving kettle with a tea-cup of water; when thor- 
 oughly heated run them thorough a colander to separate the 
 seeds; then put your skins with them and weigh; to each 
 pound of fruit, put three-fourth of a pound of sugar; add 
 merely water enough to keep from burning; cook slowly 
 three-fourths of an hour. This is a delicious jam, and worth 
 the trouble. 
 
 Blackberry Jam. — To each pound of fruit add three- 
 fourths of a pound of sugar; mash each separately; then 
 put together and boil from one-half to three-fourths of an 
 hour. 
 
 Raspberry Jam. — To 5 or 6 pounds of fine red raspber- 
 ries (not too ripe) add an equal quantity of the finest 
 quality of white sugar. Mash the whole well in a preserv- 
 ing kettle; add about 1 qt. of currant juice (a little less will 
 do), and boil gently until it jellies upon a cold plate; then 
 put into small jars; cover with brandied paper; and tie a 
 thick white paper over them. Keep in a dark, dry, and 
 cool place. 
 
 Orange Marmalade. — Take 7 oranges and 5 lemons; boil 
 in water 2 or 3 hours; throw away the water, and open the 
 oranges and lemons, taking out the seeds and preserving all 
 the pulp and juice possible; cut the rinds in small strips or 
 
464 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 chop them, but cutting in strips is better ; weigh it all when 
 this is done ; then put 3 lbs. of sugar in 2 of the pulp, and 
 boil slowly till clear. 
 
 Siberian Crab Jelly. — Boil a peck of crab-apples for 2 
 hours in as much water as will cover them, then put them 
 into a jelly bag and allow to drain, (do not squeeze them); 
 to each pint of syrup, put 1 lb. of loaf sugar, and boil for 
 half an hour. Select the reddest crabs you can find, and 
 the jelly will be a beautiful color. 
 
 Chocolate Caramels. — 2 cups of brown sugar, 1 cup 
 molasses, 1 cup chocolate grated fine, 1 cup boiled milk, 1 
 table-spoonful flour, butter the size of a large English walnut ; 
 let it boil slowly and pour on flat tins to cool; mark off 
 while warm. 
 
 The bubbling and loud hissing urn, 
 Throws up a steaming column ; and the cups 
 That cheer, but not inebriate, wait on each ; 
 So let us welcome peaceful evening in. 
 
 — Cowper. 
 
 Tea. — When the water in the tea-kettle begins to boil, 
 have ready a tin tea-steeper; pour into the tea-steeper just 
 a very little of the boiling water, and then put in tea, al- 
 lowing one tea-spoonful of tea to each person. Pour over 
 this boiling water until the steeper is a little more than half 
 full; cover tightly and let it stand where it will keep hot, 
 but not to boil. Let the tea infuse for 10 or 15 minutes, 
 and then pour into the tea urn, adding more boiling water, 
 in the proportion of one cup of water for every tea-spoonful 
 
BEVERAGES. 4<j.-> 
 
 of dry tea which has been infused. Have boiling water 
 in a water-pot, and weaken each cup of tea as desired. 
 Do not use water that has boiled long. Spring water is 
 best for tea, and filtered water next best. 
 
 Tea a la Russe. — Pare and slice fresh, juicy lemons; lay 
 a piece in the bottom of each cup, sprinkle with white sugar-, 
 and pour hot, strong tea over. Or the lemon may be sent 
 around in slices with the peel on. No cream is used. 
 
 Roasting Coffee. — This process should be carefully 
 watched and superintended. The quality and flavor of the 
 coffee depends largely upon the method of roasting. When 
 the berry crackles and becomes crisp, it is sufficiently 
 roasted. Just as soon as it is taken from the roaster, it 
 should be placed in several thicknesses of flannel to preserve 
 the oil and aroma. When cool, place it in an air-tight 
 cannister. 
 
 Cream Nectar. — 2§ lbs. of white sugar, one-eighth lb. 
 of tartaric acid, both dissolved in 1 qt. of hot water ; when 
 cold, add the beaten whites of 3 eggs, stirring well ; bottle 
 for use. Put 2 large spoonfuls of this syrup in a glass of 
 cold water, and stir in it one-fourth of a spoonful of bicar- 
 bonate of soda. Any flavor can be put in the syrup. An 
 excellent drink for summer. 
 
 Raspberry Acid. — Dissolve 5 oz. of tartaric acid in 2 
 qts. of water; pour it upon 12 lbs. of red raspberries in a 
 large bowl; let it stand 24 hours; strain it without pressing: 
 to 1 pt. of this liquor add 1 J- lbs. of white sugar; stir until 
 dissolved. Bottle, but do not cook for several days, when it 
 is ready for use. Two or three table-spoonfuls in a glass of 
 ice water will make a delicious beverage. 
 
 Raspberry Vinegar.— To 4 qts. red raspberries, pul 
 
 30 
 
466 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 enough vinegar to cover, and let them stand 24 hours; scald 
 and strain; add 1 lb. of sugar to 1 pt. of juice; boil it 20 
 minutes, and bottle; it is then ready to use and will keep 
 for years. To one glass of water add a great spoonful. It 
 is much relished by the sick. Very nice. 
 
 Blackberry Syrup. — To 1 pt. of juice, put 1 lb. of white 
 sugar, one-half oz. of powdered cinnamon, one-fourth oz. 
 mace, and 2 tea-spoonfuls cloves; boil all together for 15 
 minutes, then strain the syrup, and add to each pint a glass 
 of French brandy. 
 
 Red Currant Wine. — For every gallon of water take 1 
 gallon of currants off the stalks, bruise well and let them 
 stand over night. Next morning mash them well with your 
 hands and strain through a hair sieve. To every gallon of 
 the liquor add 4 lbs. of sugar. Rinse the cask well with 
 brandy, and strain the liquor again when putting in, by 
 which you will see whether the sugar is dissolved. Lay the 
 bung lightly on, and stop it up in 10 days. 
 
^ 
 
 e 
 
 S&^* 
 
 ^=^ 
 
 <^L 
 
 SHE JLRT OF ©IYING llMERS. 9 ^ 
 
 J^^gj^^A. 
 
 4§K::m:::>| 
 
 T has been said that the social progress of a com- 
 munity is in exact proportion to the number of 
 its dinner parties ; and in all ages the friendship 
 of nations, as well as of individuals, has been ce- 
 mented, and enmities forgotten, in the allure- 
 ments of dining. It is an undeniable fact that 
 more enduring alliances have been struck by 
 diplomatists across the dinner table than were 
 ever agreed upon in ministerial cabinets. Talle- 
 rand regarded the dinner table as the best place 
 for the transaction of diplomatic business. And 
 can any one doubt that much of the culture of the world, 
 with all its elements of refined manners, intellectual progress, 
 and taste for science, literature, and the fine arts, is largely 
 dependent upon the social gatherings at the dinner tables of 
 the metropolitan cities? 
 
 The rules which regulate dinner giving and dining in 
 America, have been adopted from both England and France, 
 
 [467] 
 
468 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 as they have been found to fit our social conditions ; and the 
 dinner giver who attempts to be original is likely to fail, be- 
 cause he disturbs the harmony which established customs 
 insure. The path of safety here, as in all social matters, is 
 the beaten track. 
 
 The first consideration, when a dinner has been decided 
 on, is a discreet selection of guests. The proper limit as to 
 numbers will be decided by the good sense of the host and 
 hostess, the size of the table and dining-room being impor- 
 tant considerations, though the number of guests should not 
 exceed twelve. Thirteen is an ominous number, and there 
 are superstitious people who would not sit at the table when 
 thirteen were present, from the belief that some fatality 
 might soon happen to one of their number. 
 
 The aim of the host and hostess should be to bring to- 
 gether such people as are of equal intellectual attainments, 
 and of like social standing. Guests are wanted who will 
 affect each other pleasantly. They need not be friends, nor 
 even acquaintances, but they must be congenial, and have 
 common tastes and sympathies. Good talkers are invalu- 
 able, and good listeners no less so. The test of the success 
 of a dinner party is the manner in which the conversation 
 is sustained at the table. A constant flow of talk and mer- 
 riment is proof that the guests have been wisely chosen, 
 while embarrassing halts and dead pauses in conversation 
 denote that they are not in sympathy with one another. 
 
 The invitations are issued in the name of the host and 
 hostess from three to ten days in advance. They are sent 
 by messenger, and not by mail, only when the distance is 
 too great to send a trusty servant. An invitation to a din- 
 ner party requires a prompt answer, and if it is accepted 
 
DINNER INVITATION. 469 
 
 the engagement must be sacredly kept, as the non-arrival of 
 a guest means an empty chair at the table, a lady with- 
 out an escort, or a gentleman without a lady. If in doubt, 
 it is better to decline; but if an invitation has been ac- 
 cepted, and an insurmountable obstacle intervenes, an ex- 
 planation must be made at once, so that the vacant place in 
 the little circle may be filled. 
 
 The following is the form of the invitation : — 
 
 JM. and Jfflfo; Wiffiam Miction 
 
 tmiwd tfie fUeabuU of Jttl. and JWv>. Jfowaid gindail'z 
 
 com f tan if at dinnci, on Wednesday, Jan- 
 
 uatif 26, at 6even o'clock. 
 
 2S Lafayette Avenue. 
 
 The day of the week and the hour are written in full, 
 but figures may be used for the day of the month. 
 
 If the dinner is given in honor of some friend or 
 stranger, a second card is inclosed in the envelope with the 
 invitation on which is inscribed: — 
 
 3?o meet 
 
 Jfflt,. ^Bmjamm Witfiei, 
 of Mw Vol ft (pity. 
 
470 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 The following is a good form for an acceptance, which 
 must be sent immediately: — 
 
 JM. and JWu>. ctfouwld ^inctkUl 
 
 awefU tmtfi fifeazule tfie invitation of JM. and JfflU* 
 
 WiUiam cfiie&ton, to dinncl, at &ewn o'cfocfi, 
 
 on Wednesday, Janualy 26. 
 
 If the invitation cannot be accepted, the persons invited 
 send a reply immediately with regrets, and state reasons of 
 their inability to accept, which may be either on account of 
 sickness in the family, intended absence, or some previous 
 engagement. 
 
 Guests may arrive any time during the half hour be- 
 fore the time appointed for dinner. This interval gives 
 time for introductions and greetings. To delay beyond the 
 appointed hour is unpardonable rudeness. Fifteen minutes 
 is the longest time a hostess is required to wait for a tardy 
 comer. 
 
 She is an excellent hostess who can make conversation 
 general before dinner. " To this end," says one writer,, 
 "have some novelty at hand, either in the shape of a per- 
 sonage whom every guest wants to meet, or a new picture, 
 bric-a-brac, a rare plant, the latest spiciest news to tell, or 
 a pretty girl to bring forward." " Whatever the attraction, 
 present it early, to prevent monotoney, and if the half or 
 quarter hour before the guests assemble around the table can 
 be so used as to bring them upon easy terms with one an- 
 other, the success of the dinner, in a social way, is more than 
 half established." 
 
EN Ti: l! T. I / NMEN T . I T T. II'.L E. 47 [ 
 
 Among- her other duties, the hostess has takeD into con- 
 sideration the arrangement of her guests at the table, with 
 a view of having them paired off to their mutual advantage 
 and to the pleasure of all concerned, so that when dinner is 
 announced the host and hostess quietly intimate to the dif- 
 ferent gentlemen whom they are toescort to the table. " M r. 
 Power, will you be so kind as to escort Miss Strong to din- 
 ner? Mr. Sharp, please look after the interests of Mrs. 
 Keene, and Mr. Keene, you may do the agreeable to Mrs. 
 Sharp, that will be a keen sharp trade all around. Mr. 
 Wright, suppose you finish telling that little story to Miss 
 Straight at the table," and so on. If the dinner is given in 
 honor of some lad}' guest, the host offers her his arm and 
 goes out first, and the hostess last. On the other hand, if 
 the honored guest be a gentleman, he escorts the hostess, and 
 they lead the way, and the host follows the company. The 
 hostess having already arranged the places at the table for 
 each guest, and placed a card with the name written upon it, 
 on each of the plates, the guests have no difficulty in 
 finding their respective seats at table. This method is now 
 used at private dinners, having long been the custom at 
 public dinners. 
 
 The e-entleman offers his right arm to the lady he escorts 
 to dinner, and seats her on his left hand at the table. On 
 reaching their places, he draws out the chair for her, and 
 allows her to be seated before he seats himself. The honored 
 guest, if a lady, is seated at the right of the host; if a gen- 
 tleman, at the right of the hostess. It becomes the duty of 
 each gentleman to see that the lady he escorts to the table 
 is well provided for, and when; food is passed around from 
 guest to guest, to allow her to be helped before he helps 
 himself. 
 
472 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Table decorations should not be used to a great extent, 
 but should be choice, when used at all. Flowers should be 
 fine but few, for to some people the odor of flowers does not 
 mingle pleasantly with that of the food before them. 
 
 It must not be supposed that dinners must be costly and 
 elaborate to be enjoyable, nor will guests expect that a din- 
 ner will be other than commensurate with the circumstances 
 of the host and hostess. Costly dinners are not necessarily 
 good dinners, while the surroundings may be so agreeable 
 and cheerful, the table so tastefully spread, the welcome so 
 frank, and the conversation so bright that a very simple 
 dinner is indeed charming, and affords the utmost pleasure 
 to hostess, host, and guests alike. 
 
 No dinner should be considered complete without at 
 least three courses, which may be classed as: First, soups; 
 second, meats; and third, dessert of pastry or puddings. 
 This may be easily doubled up, having for the first course, 
 a small dish of raw oysters, or clams; second, soup or boiled 
 fish; third, meats; fourth, salads; fifth, pastry and pud- 
 dings; sixth, ices, fruits, nuts, and raisins, with coffee. Be- 
 fore the dining-room is opened, half a dozen raw oysters are 
 placed in a small dish before each plate. If the season is 
 warm, they may be placed on cracked ice, with a quarter 
 of a lemon to each plate. When oysters are not in season, 
 small clams may be substituted, in which case red pepper 
 should be provided. These may be eaten after the party 
 have seated themselves for dinner. A dish of soup or of 
 boiled fish, or both, may then be served. The dishes in 
 which these are served being removed, the meats may be 
 served, together with the vegetables and substantiate, and 
 they are either roast beef, mutton, or turkey. These may 
 
FRENCH AND RUSSIAN CUSTOMS. 47:; 
 
 be followed by boiled meats. As a rule, the roast precede 
 the boiled, next come the salads and entrees, and then fol- 
 low the pastry or puddings, and finally, ices, fruits, nuts, 
 raisins, candy, and coffee. If it should be a game dinner, the 
 game may take the place of the meats in the third course. 
 This bill of fare may be varied according to inclination or 
 circumstances. Should the host and hostess desire to in- 
 clude wines in their bill of fare, it would be well to remem- 
 ber that Sauterne, or any light white wines should come 
 with the oysters before soup, Sherry after soup, and that 
 Champagne comes with the roast. If wine is brought on 
 for a dessert, champagne is preferable. 
 
 There are two methods of serving a dinner, the French 
 and Russian. The former is the ordinary way, the various 
 dishes being set on the table to be carved and served by the 
 host and hostess, and passed to the guests, or handed to 
 them by a servant. The Russian method, which is often 
 adopted for formal dinners, is for waiters to serve each 
 guest separately, all the carving, etc., being done before the 
 food is brought to the table. By this method more servants 
 are required, and it gives a better opportunity for the dec- 
 oration of the table, if that is desirable. The English cus- 
 tom is to set all the dishes of each course on the table at 
 once, and then those that are to be carved are removed to 
 a side table and carved by a skillful servant. The advan- 
 tages of the Russian custom is that it leaves host and 
 hostess almost as free as the guests to guide and take part in 
 the conversation. 
 
 As the main object of giving a dinner party is enjoy- 
 ment and pleasure for all concerned, it is incumbent upon 
 all to be in their happiest mood, and for each to do his or 
 
474 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 her part in rendering the occasion as delightful as possible. 
 Lively and sprightly conversation, and cheerful ways are 
 especially desirable, and when each endeavors to make all 
 others happy about him, the sociable feature of the dinner 
 is not likely to prove a failure. Ill-nature should never be 
 brought to a dinner table, and any display of it is a mark 
 of ill-breeding. It is not in good taste for two persons to 
 monopolize the conversation by a discussion in which few 
 or none of the other guests are interested. The conversa- 
 tion should be of a nature to be of interest to all, or 
 the great majority, so that each may enter into its spirit. 
 If the dinner party is a large one you may converse with 
 those near you in a low tone of voice. The hostess should 
 endeavor to put all her guests at their ease, paying every 
 attention to the wants of all, so far as possible. She needs- 
 self-possession and tact so that she may anticipate every 
 want. It is the duty of the host to aid her as far as pos- 
 sible, and to endeavor to encourage the timid, draw out the 
 silent, and direct the conversation, while others sustain it. 
 
 The table-cloth must be white and spotless, and under 
 it should be spread a thick baize or other cloth to prevent 
 the noise of dishes. Napkins should be of fine texture, but 
 firm and folded square. The dishes should be free from 
 nicks and scrupulously clean. Flowers, when not used in 
 great profusion, are the most tasteful ornaments for the 
 table. Fruit, tastefully arranged, may also be used to as- 
 sist in the table decoration. 
 
 When the dinner is served up in the ordinary way the 
 plates and the dishes to be served are placed before the host 
 or hostess. When each dish is served into the plate, it is 
 placed upon the waiter's small salver, who sets it before the 
 
MANNERS AT THE TABLE. 47;, 
 
 guest. If a second dish is served in the same course, the 
 waiter presents the dish, having first put into it a spoon, to 
 the left of the guest, who helps himself. As soon ;is any 
 one has finished his plate, it is removed, without waiting for 
 the others to finish. When all the plates are removed, the 
 next course is brought on. The crumb-brush is not used 
 until just before the dessert, and after that is served, the 
 waiter whose services are no longer needed, leaves the room. 
 In serving, the most honored guest, that is the lady at the 
 right of the host, should be first helped. 
 
 At a dinner party, great care should be taken that the 
 food be served neatly ; the plates should not be helped too 
 abundantly or the food flooded with gravies, which many 
 dislike. To some people it is disagreeable to have a plate 
 bedaubed with gravy or scattered food. Food is passed to 
 a guest from the left, but water is poured at the right of a 
 guest. Each guest should have ample space at the table so 
 that he may eat without crowding, or being crowded by, 
 his neighbor. Consequently it is important for the success 
 of the dinner that no more be invited than can be comforta- 
 bly accommodated. 
 
 9Ttcwn-cro cl\' tfx-c *?9a/0ie. 
 
 While individual manners at the table require a kind 
 consideration for the rights and feelings of others which 
 marks the true gentleman, there are details of behavior 
 which deserve mention. 
 
 Raw oysters must be eaten with a fork. Soup should 
 be sipped from the side of the [spoon and without noise. A 
 
476 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 soup plate should never be tilted for the last spoonful, and 
 it should not be called for a second time. Fish should be 
 eaten either with the fork, or a fish-knife. Salads, cheese, 
 pastry, and everything that can be cut or broken without 
 a knife should be eaten with a fork. A knife should never 
 be put into the mouth during a meal. Bread should be 
 broken, never cut at the table. Turkey, chicken, and game 
 are cut up, never picked with the lingers, unless in the in- 
 dulgence of a family dinner, when the bone may be held in 
 one hand and picked. Salt must be taken on the side of the 
 plate and never upon the table-cloth. The fork conveys 
 food to the mouth and may be used in either hand, as most 
 convenient. Food that cannot be handled with a fork 
 should be eaten with a spoon. To help yourself to butter 
 or any food from a common dish, with your own knife or 
 fork, is a gross offense. It is exceedingly impolite to pick 
 the teeth at the table, or in the presence of ladies after a 
 meal. If it is necessary to use a tooth-pick at the table, it 
 is done while the napkin is held over the mouth. Avoid 
 making any sound with the mouth while eating or chew- 
 ing food. Eat slowly, both for the sake of health and good 
 manners, and do not take so large a mouthful that you find 
 it difficult or impossible to speak. Do not lean the ellx>ws 
 or lay the hands on the table, or play with knives and forks 
 or glasses, or lounge in, or tilt back, your chair, or take a 
 lounging attitude at the table. When you have finished a 
 course, lay your knife and fork side by side on the plate, 
 which Is the signal for their removal. Never dip bread 
 into gravy or preserves. 
 
 Refuse fish if you wish, but do not call for it a second 
 time. "When soup is passed as the first course, never refuse 
 
FISH AND SOUP ETIQUETTE. 477 
 
 it, but you need not partake of it unless you wish to. Never 
 apologize to a waiter for asking him for anything; it is his 
 business to serve. Never rebuke a waiter, as that is tin- 
 business of the host. When dishes are passed by one guesl 
 to another, help yourself before offering it to the next, as it 
 makes confusion and delay to do otherwise. Never use the 
 napkin to wipe your face or nose. It is for the lips only. 
 Do not scrape your plate, or tilt it up to get the last drop, 
 or wipe it with a piece of bread. Pudding may be eaten 
 with a fork or spoon as is most convenient. Ices require 
 a spoon. 
 
 It is rude to monopolize the conversation at the table, or 
 to talk or laugh loud. Boisterous conduct is particularly 
 ill-mannered at the table. If a special delicacy has been pre- 
 pared by the hostess for the dinner, which a guest does not 
 care for, or which his health will not permit him to eat, he 
 may take a portion of it on his plate and eat as much or as 
 little of it as he pleases. To refuse it might be to injure the 
 feelings of your hostess. It is not regarded in good taste to 
 say much about the food, either in praise or disparagement. 
 If one is obliged to leave the table before a meal is finished, 
 he should ask the hostess to excuse him. Bread should be 
 held on the plate or near the table, while it is buttered, and 
 it should be broken, and not bitten into. The general rule 
 is that nothing should be bitten at the table. 
 
 One should not sit too near the table, nor too far from it, 
 nor drum with his fingers, nor make diagrams with his 
 knife and fork, nor twirl his goblet, nor play with his salt- 
 cellar, nor cough, sneeze, or smack his lips, nor put his 
 elbows on the table, nor fidget in his chair, nor blow in his 
 soup to cool it, nor soak up gravy with his bread If a 
 
478 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 plate is handed you at table, keep it, unless you are re- 
 quested to pass it to another. The host knows whom he 
 wishes to serve first. As soon as you receive your plate, 
 you are at liberty to begin eating without waiting until all 
 others are served, as is often done. An apple may be held 
 in the hand while paring, and eaten in small slices cut from 
 the whole fruit, carrying each slice to. the mouth on the 
 point of a fruit knife. Never bite into an apple at the 
 table. 
 
 In cases where a person is in doubt just what to do, or 
 how to act at table, it would be well to conform to the usage 
 of those around him, for it is almost impossible to give rules 
 or suggest hints to apply to all cases and all circumstances 
 into which a person may be thrown. 
 
 We have presented some rules regarding the preparation 
 and serving of a formal dinner. In every well-regu- 
 lated family the table should be prepared daily with the 
 same care, if not so elaborate, as for such an occasion. 
 This is a good way to insure success for hostess and servants 
 when a dinner party does come off, while it gives the mis- 
 tress and servants the luxury of becoming used to a nice 
 style, so that it is just as easy as common ways, and no sud- 
 den visitor can put them out. In the family it should be 
 observed as a rule to meet together at all meals of the day 
 around one common table where the same rules of etiquette 
 should be as rigidly enforced as at the table of a stranger. 
 It is only by the constant practice of the rules of good soci- 
 ety at home that good manners become easy when any of 
 them are invited out to meet strangers. 
 
tabJjE talk. 1,79 
 
 At the breakfast table, a greater amount of freedom is 
 allowable than at the other meals of the day. Some mem- 
 bers of the family require to be off at an early hour. Thus 
 all may not be able to meet together, and each may rise 
 and leave the table when business or pleasure dictate. The 
 mistress serves the coffee, and the master of the house the 
 meats, potatoes, etc. Whenever practicable, it is well to 
 serve fruits at breakfast, and they should be served first, 
 followed by oat-meal, or wheaten grits, then the meats and 
 vegetables, with toast, hot cakes, and coffee. 
 
 The last meal of the day, supper or " tea," is the sim- 
 plest of the three, and meats are mostly served cold, while 
 the nicest delicacies of cookery are served up. 
 
 In some sense, housekeeping is making the most of life, 
 
 bringing taste and variety into it, compassing difficult ends 
 
 with invention. Those who disdain it lower themselves. 
 
 Never think that any thing is too good for you or yours 
 
 that you can obtain. Everywhere ,there are people living 
 
 in small common ways, because they are absolutely afraid 
 
 of the expense or the notice which a pleasanter life would 
 
 brinff. Half the niceties of life involve only care to secure 
 
 ° i 
 
 them, without a dollar of expense. Good manners cost 
 
 nothing, good taste is a saving, and good housekeeping act- 
 ually makes money. People grow refined first in their eat- 
 ing. How is it that the most brilliant and clever nation in 
 the world has also the best cooking? Put these things to- 
 gether, and do your best according to their result. 
 
 We present the following Bills of Fare for various meals, 
 which may be found of value to our readers : — 
 
4S0 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 
 S^PS 
 
 
 Oatmeal. Buttered Toast. Beefsteak. 
 
 Potatoes. Hominy. 
 
 Stewed Apples. Buckwheat Cakes. Sirup. 
 
 Coffee. Chocolate. 
 
 2reaktmt Party. 
 
 * 
 Fruits in Season. Broiled Fish. Potatoes. 
 
 Home Rolls. Beefsteak. 
 
 Egg Omelet. Graham Gems. Celery and Lettuce. 
 
 Fried Oysters. Cream Nectar. 
 
 Coffee. Ices. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 481 
 
 Soup with Vegetables. Roast Meats. Apple Sauce. 
 
 Potatoes. Turnips. 
 
 Cabbage. Tomatoes. Pudding. 
 
 Pie. 
 
 Cheese. 
 
 Fruits. 
 Coffee. Ices. 
 
 Bimxsr Partis*. 
 
 Raw Oysters. Soup with Vegetables. Boiled White Fish. 
 
 Roast Turkey with Cranberry Sauce. 
 
 Mashed Irish Potatoes. Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 Croquettes of Rice. 
 
 &S93SRT. 
 
 Cream Custard. Lemon Pie. Cocoanut Pie. 
 
 Fruits. Nuts. Coffee. Ices. 
 
 TJM. 
 
 Tea, Coffee, or Chocolate. Escalloped or Fried Oysters. 
 
 Muffins. Sliced Turkey and Ham. Cold Biscuits. 
 
 Sardines and Sliced Lemons. Thin Slices of Bread Rolled. 
 
 Sliced Pressed Meats. Cake in Variety. 
 
 31 
 
482 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 
 
 Mtepmw jfo. i. 
 
 Cold Roast Turkey or Chicken. Ham Croquettes. 
 
 Fricasseed Oysters. Charlotte Russe. 
 
 Whipped Cream. Chocolate Cake. Cocoanut Cake. 
 
 Mixed Cakes. Fruit in Season. 
 
 Ices. Coffee and Chocolate. 
 
 SUPPER H0\ 2, 
 
 Cold Roast Fowl. Oyster Patties. Cold Boiled Ham. 
 
 Raw Oysters. Ham Sandwiches. 
 
 Jelly. Ice-Cream. Cakes. 
 
 Assorted Fruits. Chocolate. Coffee. 
 
 *"W8. 
 
 BgoHomigal B/jj 
 
 Sunday. — Roast Beef, Potatoes, and Greens. Dessert: 
 Pudding or Pie, Cheese. 
 
 Monday. — Hashed Beef, Potatoes, and Bread Pudding. 
 
 Tuesday. — Broiled Beef, Vegetables, Apple Pudding. 
 
 Wednesday. — Boiled Pork, Beans, Potatoes, Greens, 
 and Pie or Rice Pudding. 
 
 Thursday. — Roast or Broiled Fowl, Cabbage, Potatoes, 
 Lemon Pie, Cheese. 
 
 Friday. — Fish, Potato Croquettes, Escalloped Toma- 
 toes, Pudding. 
 
 Saturday. — A la mode Beef, Potatoes, Vegetables, Suet 
 Pudding, Mince Pie, and Cheese. 
 
^5 
 
 TO 
 
 -«f' 
 
 q- 
 
 « <f« »"i> o< 
 
 *i ' ' ■>■ ' i ' ♦ 
 
 Our Homes akd Their Adornments. 
 
 d 
 
 ■-P 
 
 4 
 
 ®±GF 
 
 V9^ 
 
 [4831 
 
[4841 
 
^^^ 
 
 (uuiiliiHMiMiiiiiiiiniiiiiniiriimiliiMU 
 
 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Adornments, Simple, 
 
 130 
 
 Advantages of Story-and-a-half 
 
 over 
 
 One-Story House, 
 
 120 
 
 An Excellent Floor Plan, 
 
 126 
 
 Aniline Dyes, 
 
 369 
 
 ANTIQUE FURNITURE— 
 
 
 Cabinets, 
 
 279 
 
 Hall Benches, 
 
 280 
 
 Odds and Ends, 
 
 279 
 
 " The Chambered Nautilus," 
 
 281 
 
 Appearance Subject to Arrangement, 127 
 
 Applying- Paints, 
 
 APPLIQUE OR CUT-WORK— 
 
 Inlaid, 
 
 On laid, 
 
 Instructions in, 
 
 Piano Scarf, 
 Aquariums To Grow Water-Lilies in, 
 Arasene Needle-Work 
 Arbor, To Construct, 
 Attracthe Buildings, 
 Attractive Cottage Home, 
 Autumn Leaves, To Preserve, 
 
 Back Plastering, 
 Bamboo Screens, 
 Banner Screen, Design for, 
 
 170 
 
 241 
 241 
 241 
 255 
 325 
 236 
 147 
 37 
 111 
 380 
 
 40 
 268 
 239 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Barn, Farm and Carriage, 159 
 Barrel Filter, The Cheap, Durable, 
 
 and Effective, 73 
 Bass- Wood, How to Use, 44 
 Bath Tub, 84 
 Bay-Window, 150 
 Beads for Fancy Needle-Work, 236 
 Beautifying Walls and Ceilings, 215 
 Bed-Rooms, Arrangement of, 31 
 Bed-Rooms, The, 221 
 Bed-Rooms, How to Make them Cheer- 
 ful, Comfortable, and Healthful, 204 
 Bedstead and Drapery, (with illus.) 297 
 Bedstead and Wardrobe Combined, 292 
 Benches for the Hall, 280 
 Best Filter, The, 72 
 Best Time to Paint, 167 
 Best Time to Plant, 202 
 Best Woods, The, and How to Use 
 
 Them, 49 
 
 Better Plan for Floors, A, W 
 
 Black-Walnut, S3 
 
 Blackboards, To Make, 391 
 
 Blanket Stitch Needle-Work, 237 
 
 Bleaching, Recipes for, 371 
 
 Bleaching Powder, 372 
 
 Bleaching Ivory, -"- 
 
 [485] 
 
486 
 
 GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Blinds and Shutters, 82 
 
 Blue Blankets, A Use for Old, 260 
 
 Bolton Sheeting, 235 
 
 Brick and Stone Houses, their Cost, 57 
 
 Brick-Work, 163 
 
 Bronze for Metals, 387 
 
 Brushes, Various, 172 
 BUILDING DESIGNS— 
 
 A Simple Cottage, (5 Cuts) 105 
 
 Alterations in Cottage, (2 Cuts) 111 
 Neat Story-and-a-half House, (3 
 
 Cuts) 115 
 
 Story-and-a-half House, (2 Cuts) 121 
 Superior Story-and-a-half House, 
 
 (2 Cuts) 125 
 
 Rural Cottage Home, (2 Cuts) 128 
 Modern Gothic-Roofed House, (1 
 
 Cut) 130 
 
 Solid Gothic House, (3 Cuts) 133 
 
 Farm Residence and Barn, (2 Cuts) 135 
 
 Elegant Brick Residence, (2 Cuts) 138 
 
 Fine Substantial Villa, (1 Cut) 142 
 
 Buildings of Wood, their Economy, 39 
 
 Buildings, Secret of Attractive, 37 
 
 Cabinets, 
 
 279, 283 
 
 Cabinets, Hanging, 
 
 292 
 
 calcimine- 
 
 
 how to Make, 
 
 230 
 
 Shade of Color, 
 
 231 
 
 How to Put it on, 
 
 231 
 
 Canton Flannel, 
 
 235 
 
 Care of Trees, and Success in 
 
 their 
 
 Culture, 
 
 205 
 
 CARPETS— 
 
 288 
 
 Ingrain, 
 
 261 
 
 Silk Rag, 
 
 261 
 
 Prayer, 
 
 262 
 
 Carpenter-Work, 
 
 77 
 
 Carriage Barn, Farm and, (ill.) 
 
 159 
 
 Carriage Painting, 
 
 389 
 
 CARVING IN WOOD— 
 
 
 General Remarks, 
 
 351 
 
 The Use of Tools, 
 
 352 
 
 Tools, (6 illustrations) 
 
 353 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 A Design for, 353 
 
 Instructions in the Art, 354 
 
 Carving a Wall Pocket, 357 
 
 Carved Fret-Work, 360 
 
 Finishing, 362 
 
 Casing of Stairs, 51 
 
 Ceilings and Walls, 215 
 
 Ceilings, Decoration of, 223 
 
 CELLARS— 
 
 Excavations for, 61 
 
 How to Remedy Wet and Damp, 75 
 
 Cellar- Way and Piers, 65 
 
 cements- 
 How to Use, 403 
 Causes of Failure in Using, 404 
 For Ivory, 404 
 " Jet, 404 
 " Lamps, 405 
 " Pots and Pans, 405 
 " Wood, 4C6 
 " Leather, 406 
 " Marble, 406 
 " China, 406 
 " Crack in Wood, 407 
 Chinese, 407 
 Fire-Proof and Water-Proof, 407 
 India Rubber, 404 
 Jewelers', 408 
 London, 405 
 Stone Masons', 407 
 How to Test, 71 
 Recipes for, 403 
 Cess-Pool Vaults, 74 
 Chairs, 282 
 Cheap but Attractive Houses in the 
 
 Hot Season, 143 
 
 Chimneys and Flues, 66 
 
 Chimneys, How to Build after the 
 
 House is Complete, 68 
 
 Choice of Papers, 217 
 
 Choice of Wall-Papers, Hints on, 219 
 
 Cistern Filters, 73 
 
 Cisterns, How to Make Good Ones, 70 
 
 CLAPBOARDING, 43 
 
 To Measure, 166 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 487 
 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Classification of Flowers, 
 
 308 
 
 CLEANING FABRICS— 
 
 
 General Directions, 
 
 398 
 
 Best Substances for, 
 
 399 
 
 Iron Rust and Grease. 
 
 399 
 
 Ink Stains, 
 
 399, 400 
 
 Grease from Cloth (2 Recipes) 399 
 
 Acids on Clothes, 400 
 
 Fruit Stains, 400 
 
 Lace, 400 
 
 Furs, 401 
 
 To Renovate Silk, 401 
 
 Ostrich Feathers, 402 
 
 Carpets, 402 
 
 Soap for, 402 
 
 Fluid for, 403 
 CLEANING AND SCOURING— 
 
 Brass and Copper, 395 
 
 Engravings, 395 
 
 Dresses, 398 
 
 Gilt Frames, 398 
 
 Floors, 397 
 
 Hats, 395 
 
 House Paint, 397 
 
 Jewelry, 395 
 
 Marble, 394 
 
 Oil-Paintings, 394 
 
 Pearls, 394 
 Piate and Plated Ware, 394, 395 
 
 Harness, 411 
 Clothes-Horse, Queer Use for an Old, 277 
 COLORS— 
 
 In Painting, 168 
 In Graining, 176 
 The Mixing of, 169 
 For Fences, 210 
 Coloring Straw Hats, 370 
 Combing Ingrain Work, 176 
 Comparative Cost of Building, 58 
 Common Errors to be Avoided in Re- 
 gard to House and Grounds, 183 
 Comfort in Home, 103 
 Concreting, 75 
 Contracting for Builder's Work, 28 
 Constructing a Rustic House, 146 
 
 TAOF. 
 
 Cornices and Gables, 3k 
 Cottage, A Simple, (with illus.) LOS 
 Cottage, A Summer, To Build, it 
 Cottage Home, A Rural, (with ill.) 128 
 Cottage Home, An Attractive, for Peo- 
 ple of Small Means, 111 
 Counterpanes, Silk, 245 
 Counterfeit Silver, To Detect, 416 
 Covering and Decorating Screens, 269 
 Cooking Recipes, 417 1 
 Crash, 263 
 Crestings and Finials, 81 
 Crewel Work, 236 
 Crystallizing Grass, 381 
 Culture of Flowers, The, 303 
 CURTAINS AND HANGINGS— 
 
 Various, for Recesses and Win- 
 dows, 259 
 How to Make Them, 260 
 Chinese Embroidery, 260 
 Of Waste Material, 261 
 Of Ingrain Carpeting, 261 
 The Dove Design, 262 
 Prices of Material, 263 
 Scarfs and Book-Case Curtains, 264 
 
 Dado, The, 224 
 
 Damp Walls, Remedy for, 391 
 
 Danger from Stagnant Pools, 99 
 
 Darkening Glass, 391 
 
 Darned Work Table Scarf, 257 
 DECORATIONS, INTERIOR- 
 
 General Considerations, 213 
 
 Aim and Extent, 214 
 How to Beautify the Walls and 
 
 Ceilings, 215 
 Wail-Papers, 215 
 How to Select the Best, 216 
 Hints on the Choice of Papers, 219 
 Papers for Parlor or Drawing- 
 Room, 220 
 For the Library, 883 
 For Bod-Kooms, 221 
 For Dining-Room, 288 
 Treatment of Ceilings, 888 
 
488 
 
 GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 The Dado, 224 
 
 Friezes, (3 illustrations) 225 
 
 Deodorizer, The Best, 378 
 
 Descriptions and Specifications, 61, 70, 76 
 Description of Material for Needle- 
 Work, 235 
 Decorating Screens, 269 
 DESIGNS— 
 
 I, A Simple Cottage with Succes- 
 
 sive Enlargements, (5 illus.) 105 
 
 II, Attractive Cottage Home for 
 
 People with Small Means, (2 
 illus.) Ill 
 
 III, A Neat Story-and-a-half 
 House at Moderate Cost, (3 
 illustrations) 115 
 
 IV, Story:and-a-half House, (2 il- 
 lustrations) 121 
 
 V, Superior Story-and-a-half 
 House, (2 illustrations) 125 
 
 VI, A Rural Cottage Home,(2 illus.) 128 
 
 VII, Modern Gothic-Roofed Story- 
 and-a-half House, (with illus.) 130 
 
 VIII, A Solid Gothic House, (3 ill.) 133 
 
 IX, Extensive Farm Residence and 
 Barn, (2 illustrations) 135 
 
 X, Elegant Brick Residence, (2 ill.) 138 
 
 XI, Fine Suburban Villa, (with ill.) 142 
 DINING-ROOM, The, 222, 293 
 
 Its Character and Furnishing, 293 
 
 Directions for Building, 51 
 
 Disinfectants for Sick-Rooms, 377 
 
 Distance of House from Road, 188 
 
 Doors and Windows, 81 
 
 Dove Portiere, The, 262 
 
 Doyley in Tatting, (cut,) 246 
 
 Drains, 163 
 
 Drainage, How to Secure Good, 98 
 
 Drapery for Bedstead, 297 
 
 For Toilet-Stand, 299 
 
 Drawn Work, 241 
 
 Dressing Bureau, 296 
 
 Driers and Oils, 169 
 
 Durable Floors, 45 
 DYEING AND BLEACHING— 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 General Remarks, 363 
 
 Dyeing Cotton, 364 
 
 Mordants, 364, 370 
 Recipes and Treatment for all 
 
 Leading Colors, 364 
 Dyeing Woolens in all the Prevail- 
 ing Colors, 367 
 Aniline Dyes, 369 
 Coloring Straw Hats, 370 
 Dyeing Feathers, 370 
 To Bleach Sponge, 371 
 To Whiten Lace, 371 
 Bleaching Straw Goods, 371 
 
 Easy Method of Laying out Drives, 19S 
 
 EBONIZED Wood, How to Make, 267 
 
 Screens, To Make the Frames of, 267 
 
 Elegant Brick Residence, 138 
 
 Elegant Effect at Small Cost in Hang- 
 ings, 234 
 
 EMBROIDERY— 
 
 Frames, 241 
 
 Border Patterns, (2 illustrations,) 242 
 Embroidered Pincushion, (with 
 
 illustration,) 242 
 
 Silk Counterpanes, (2 illustrations) 244 
 Silks, 236 
 
 Tidy on Linen Crash, 247 
 
 Screens, 272 
 
 Elegant Designs, 249 
 
 A Pretty Work-Apron, 250 
 
 Hair Receiver, 251 
 
 Silk Plush for Mirrors, 252 
 
 Splasher, New Style, 252 
 
 News Rack in Bead Work, 253 
 
 Bead Work Table-Cover, 254 
 
 ENCAUSTIC TILES— 
 
 Their Durability, 282 
 
 How to Use them, 283 
 
 Suitable for Pavements, Mantels, 
 
 Cabinets, Etc., 283 
 
 Their Cost, and How to Obtain 
 Them, 284 
 
 Errors of Common Occurrence in Re- 
 gard to House and Grounds, 183 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 4S!> 
 
 PAOK. 
 
 Estimating Work and Materials, 165 
 
 Bulbs— 
 
 PAOK. 
 
 Excavations for Cellar, 
 
 61 
 
 Dahlia, 
 
 813,::^ 
 
 Excellent Farm and Carriage Barn, 
 
 Exposure or Location, 
 
 Exposure of a House, 
 
 Extensive Farm Residence and Barn 
 
 (with illustration) 
 Extent of Decoration, 
 
 159 
 
 186 
 99 
 
 1 
 
 135 
 
 214 
 
 Gladiolus, 
 Calla, 
 Tuberose, 
 Cyclamen, 
 Lily, 
 
 Bleeding Heart, 
 Climbers— 
 
 313 
 313 
 
 Su 
 312 
 812 
 813 
 
 Fan Screens, 
 
 275 
 
 Clematis, 
 
 314 
 
 Farm and Carriage Barn Combined, 
 
 159 
 
 Cypress- Vine, 
 
 3U 
 
 Farm Residence and Barn, (illus.) 
 
 135 
 
 Gourds, 
 
 314 
 
 Feather Stitch in Needle-Work, 
 
 237 
 
 Ipomea, 
 
 SIS 
 
 Feathers, To Dye Various Colors, 
 
 370 
 
 Maurandya, 
 
 815 
 
 Fences, (with illustrations) 
 
 206 
 
 Smilax, 
 
 31". 
 
 FILTER, A Valuable Test, 
 
 72 
 
 Annuals and Perenniaib— 
 
 
 Another Plan, 
 
 73 
 
 Aster, 
 
 816 
 
 The Barrel, 
 
 73 
 
 Begonia, 
 
 316 
 
 A Cheap, 
 
 403 
 
 Camellia, 
 
 816 
 
 Filtering, 
 
 72 
 
 Calceolaria, 
 
 817 
 
 Finials and Castings, 
 
 81 
 
 Carnation, 
 
 817 
 
 Finishing Coat— Painting, 
 
 171 
 
 Candytuft, 
 
 317 
 
 Finishing in Oil and Shellac, 
 
 174 
 
 Chrysanthemum, 
 
 818 
 
 Finishing Inside— Wood-Work, 
 
 82 
 
 Fuchsia, 
 
 818 
 
 Fire-Proof Wooden Buildings, 
 
 41 
 
 Heliotrope, 
 
 819 
 
 Fire-Proofing Shingle Roofs, 
 
 390 
 
 Mignonette, 
 
 319 
 
 Fire-Proof Paint for Wood, 
 
 391 
 
 Oleander, 
 
 319 
 
 Flax Cloth, 
 
 235 
 
 Pansy, 
 
 320 
 
 FLOORS, Durable, 
 
 45 
 
 Geranium, 
 
 820 
 
 A Better Plan for, 
 
 46 
 
 Ferns, 
 
 321 
 
 An Excellent Plan for ; (with illus v 
 
 126 
 
 Phlox Drummondil, 
 
 821 
 
 Flooring, To Measure, 
 
 166 
 
 Snapdragon, 
 
 821 
 
 FLOWERS— 
 
 
 Violet, 
 
 822 
 
 Their Culture, 
 
 303 
 
 Zinnia, 
 
 822 
 
 How to Have Abundance of, 
 
 304 
 
 Chinese Primrose, 
 
 822 
 
 How to Have them all Winter, 
 
 328 
 
 Roses, 
 
 323 
 
 Useful Suggestions on Cultivation of 304 
 
 Petunia, 
 
 823 
 
 Classification of, 
 
 306 
 
 Water-Lily, 
 
 824 
 
 How to Construct the Beds, 
 
 ft* r* 
 
 OIU 
 
 Water-Lily, Cultivation of In Tubs, 324 
 
 List of Bulbs, 
 
 311 
 
 Water-Lily for Aquariums, 
 
 32.-1 
 
 Climbers, 
 
 314 
 
 Ice-Plant, 
 
 32". 
 
 Annuals and Perennials, 
 
 316 
 
 Balsam, 
 
 32.'. 
 
 Varieties Suitable for all Purposes, 
 
 316 
 
 Ageratam, 
 
 326 
 
 Window Gardening, (with illus ) 
 
 327 
 
 Abutilon, 
 
 326 
 
 The Soil, 
 
 305 
 
 Flues and Chimneys, 
 
 66 
 
490 
 
 GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Formation of Lawns, 
 
 190 
 
 How to Select Trees, 
 
 205 
 
 Foundations, 
 
 63 
 
 How to Ornament Fences, 
 
 209 
 
 Foundation of Boulders, 
 
 64 
 
 Methods of Making Walks, 
 
 198 
 
 French Polish, 
 
 3S7 
 
 Permanent Lawn, 
 
 191 
 
 FRET SAWING — 
 
 335 
 
 Planting Trees, 
 
 202 
 
 An Embellishment in Window Gar- 
 
 
 Roads and Walks, 
 
 189 
 
 dening, (with illustration) 
 
 330 
 
 Style of Gardening, 
 
 186 
 
 Its Origin, 
 
 335 
 
 Special Features, 
 
 193 
 
 Sand-Papering, 
 
 345 
 
 Time for Removing Trees, 
 
 203 
 
 Materials Suitable for Use, 
 
 337 
 
 Terraces, 
 
 1S9 
 
 A Manual of, 
 
 339 
 
 Varieties of Shrubs, Trees, an 
 
 d 
 
 Practical Lessons in, (with illus's) 
 
 340 
 
 Flowers, 
 
 194 
 
 The Tools and their Uses, 339 
 
 ,352 
 
 General Considerations, 
 
 25 
 
 Finishing the Work, 
 
 342 
 
 Glazing, 
 
 88 
 
 Working in Metal, Ivory, Etc., 
 
 346 
 
 Good Drainage, How to Secure, 
 
 97 
 
 Saws, Lathes, Prices, Etc., 
 
 349 
 
 GRAINING— 
 
 175 
 
 Silhouettes, 
 
 345 
 
 The Tools for, 
 
 175 
 
 Friendship Cushion, 
 
 279 
 
 The Ground for, 
 
 175 
 
 Furnaces and Grates, 
 
 91 
 
 Ash, 
 
 177 
 
 Furnaces for Heating, 
 
 92 
 
 Old Oak, 
 
 177 
 
 FURNITURE DESIGNS— 
 
 
 Bird's-Eye Maple, 
 
 177 
 
 Hat Rack with Mirror, 
 
 2S6 
 
 Mahogany, 
 
 178 
 
 Hat and Umbrella Rack, 
 
 237 
 
 Grates and Furnaces, 
 
 91 
 
 Easy Chair, 
 
 289 
 
 Grass, to Crystallize, 
 
 331 
 
 Library Chair, 
 
 290 
 
 Ground Glass Windows, To Imitate, 
 
 3S1 
 
 Lounge, 
 
 291 
 
 
 
 Hassock, 
 
 292 
 
 HAIR— 
 
 
 Bed-Room Set, 
 
 295 
 
 To Beautify the, 
 
 3S3 
 
 Wardrobe Bedstead, 
 
 296 
 
 Gloss, 
 
 332 
 
 Bed with Draper}-, 
 
 297 
 
 Oil, 
 
 332 
 
 Toilet-Stand with Drapery, 
 
 299 
 
 Wash, 
 
 332 
 
 Furniture Varnish, 
 
 335 
 
 Lotion, 
 
 3S2 
 
 Furniture Polish, 
 
 386 
 
 Brushes, To Clean, 
 
 383 
 
 
 
 Hall Benches, 
 
 280 
 
 GARDEN, The— 
 
 
 Hall, The, 
 
 285 
 
 Best Time for Planting Trees, 
 
 202 
 
 HANGINGS FOR DOORS, HALLS, 
 
 AND 
 
 Drives and Walks, 
 
 197 
 
 windows- 
 
 
 Errors to be Avoided, 
 
 183 
 
 how to Make them, 
 
 259 
 
 Excellent Trees to Plant, 
 
 205 
 
 Elegant Effect at Small Cost, 
 
 260 
 
 Exposure or Location, 
 
 186 
 
 Old Blue Blanket, 
 
 260 
 
 Fences, Various Styles of, 
 
 206 
 
 Portiere of Chinese Embroidery, 
 
 260 
 
 Formation of Lawns, 
 
 190 
 
 Silk Rag Carpet, 
 
 261 
 
 General Rules, 
 
 183 
 
 Ingrain Carpet, 
 
 261 
 
 Gradimr and Terracing, 
 
 189 
 
 The Dove Portiere, 
 
 262 
 
 How to Begin, 
 
 1S4 
 
 Velveteen, 
 
 262 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 491 
 
 Smyrna Blankets, 
 Prayer Carpets, 
 Curtains, 
 Prices of Materials, 
 
 PAGE. 
 262 
 262 
 263 
 263 
 i:64 
 214 
 
 Scarfs and Book -Case Curtains, 
 Harmony in Decorations, 
 HARNESS— 
 
 To Clean, 411 
 
 To Black, 412 
 
 Composition, 412 
 Hassocks, Embroidered Covers for, 
 
 Hassock, A Serviceable, (cut) 292 
 
 Health, Hints on, 377 
 
 Hearths and Pavements, 2S3 
 
 Hearth Rugs and Carpets, 2Si) 
 HOME— 
 
 Attractive Cottage, For People of 
 
 Small Means, (with illus.) Ill 
 A Rural Cottage, (with illus.) 128 
 Plan of a, that Combines Conven- 
 ience and Beauty, (with illus.) 129 
 Decoration of, 380 
 Hoine-Made Mantels, 290 
 HOUSE, The— 
 
 How to Plan a, 30 
 
 How to Proceed, 30 
 
 Kinds of Lumber to Use, 33 
 
 Renting and Purchasing, 27 
 Painting, 34, 167 
 
 Contracting the Work, 28, 32 
 Alterations and Additions to, 107, 140 
 
 Appearance of, 36 
 
 Brick and Stone, their Cost, 57 
 
 Stone Trimmings for Brick, 60 
 
 Hardware, 88 
 
 Heating and Ventilation, 91 
 Measuring of Work, Labor, and 
 
 Material, 165 
 
 Style of Building, 188 
 
 Distance from Road, 188 
 
 Hall, The, 285 
 
 Suggestions on Furnishing, 2S5 
 
 Flooring for, 288 
 
 Heating Furnaces, 92 
 How to Build a House and Make 
 
 Mi r. 
 
 Additions to It, 107 
 How to Prevent Brick Walls from 
 
 Sweating, 00 
 
 ICE-HOUSE— 
 
 To Construct, 
 
 Combined with Preservatorj (with 
 
 ill.) 
 
 Ideal Houses, 25 
 
 Impure Air, How to Remove It, 94 
 
 Inks, Recipes for, 413 
 
 Inlaid Applique Work, 241 
 
 Ingrain Carpet, 201 
 
 Instructions in Needio-Work, 241 
 
 Interlaying in Scroll-Work, 343 
 
 Japanese Quilt, 273, 279 
 
 KALCIMINE (Calcimine), 230 
 
 Blue, 231 
 
 Rose, 231 
 
 Lavender, 231 
 
 Lilac, 231 
 
 Kinds of Stitches in Needle-Work, 237 
 
 Kitchen, The, 83 
 
 Lace, To Whiten, 371 
 
 Lambrequins, (with ill.) 277 
 
 Lamp Screen, 275 
 LANDSCAPE GARDENING— 
 
 General Rules Applying to Small 
 
 Lots, 1S3 
 
 Errors to be Avoided, 183 
 
 How to B( _ 184 
 
 Style of Gardening Used, 1*6 
 
 Exposure or Location, 186 
 
 Roads and Walks, 189 
 
 Grading and Terracing, 189 
 
 Formation of Lawns, 190 
 
 A More Permanent Lawn, 191 
 
 Special Features, 193 
 Varieties of Flowers, Trees, and 
 
 Shrubs to Use, 194 
 
 Drives and Walks, (with 111.) 197 
 
 Method of Making, 198 
 
 Planting Trees, W 
 
492 
 
 GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Best Time for Doing So, 202 
 
 Time for Removing, 203 
 
 How to Select Trees, 205 
 
 Excellent Kinds to Plant, 205 
 
 Fences, Various Styles, 206 
 
 How to Make them Ornamental, 209 
 
 Lathing and Plastering, 76 
 
 Lathes and Saws for Fret Sawing, 349 
 
 Leaves, To Skeletonize, 380 
 LESSONS IN FRET SAWING (with 
 illustrations)— 
 
 I., 340 
 
 H, 340 
 
 III., 341 
 
 IV., 341 
 
 Library, The, 221, 2S8 
 
 Lime-Water, 379 
 
 Lounge, Useful and Graceful, 292 
 LUMBER — Necessary to Erect a Build- 
 ing— 
 
 To Find, 166 
 
 To Measure a Pile of, 165 
 
 The Number of Feet in a Log, 166 
 
 MANTELS— 
 Home-Made, 
 Cabinets, Etc., 
 
 Mason Work, 
 
 290 
 
 283 
 
 62 
 
 Materials in Building a House, with 
 
 their Cost, 145 
 MEASURING— 
 
 Builder's Work, Labor ,'and Mate- 
 rial, 165 
 Lumber, 165, 166 
 Studding, 165 
 Clapboarding, 166 
 Plastering, 166 
 Flooring, 166 
 Mineral Paints, 168 
 Mixing Colors, 169 
 Momie Cloth for Needle-Work, 235 
 Mordants Used in Dyeing, 364, 370 
 
 NEEDLE-WORK— 
 
 Recent Improvements in, 
 
 234 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Usefulness in, A Prominent Fea- 
 ture, 234 
 Description of Materials for, 235 
 Flax Cloth, 235 
 Canton Flannel, 235 
 Momie Cloth, 235 
 Upholstery Felts, 235 
 Bolton Sheeting, 235 
 Plushes, 235 
 Secret of Beauty in, 234 
 Satin, 236 
 Crewels, 236 
 Arasene, 236 
 Embroidery Silks, 236 
 Beads, 236 
 Kinds of Stitches, 237 
 Stem or Tent Stitch, 237 
 Blanket Stitch, 237 
 Feather Stitch, 237 
 A New Stitch, 233 
 Plush Stitch, 233 
 Applique or Cut-Work, 241 
 Inlaid, 241 
 Onlaid, 241 
 Instructions therein, 241 
 Drawn Work, 241 
 Embroidery Frames, 241 
 
 NEEDLE- WORK DESIGNS— 
 
 Embroidered Border, Fig. 42, 243 
 
 Embroidered Border, Fig. 43, 243 
 Embroidered Pincushion, Fig. 44, 244 
 
 Silk Counterpane, Fig. 45, 245 
 
 Silk Counterpane, Fig. 46, 245 
 
 Tatted Doyley, Fig. 47, 246 
 Embroidered Tidy on Linen Crash, 
 
 Fig. 48, 247 
 
 Nickle Plating, How to Imitate, 388 
 
 Odds and Ends of Antiquity, 279 
 
 Oils and Driers, 169 
 
 Oil and Shellac Finish, 174 
 
 Oil instead of Varnish for Doors, 178 
 
 Old Blue Blankets, A Use for, 260 
 
 Onlaid Applique Work, 241 
 
 Open Fire -Places, 81 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 4!»:; 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Open Joints, and How to Prevent them, 46 
 Originality, A Lesson in, 2S0 
 
 Originality in Furnishing, 280 
 
 Outhouses, l. r >7 
 
 Overlaying in Scroll-Work, 314 
 
 PAINT- 
 
 
 
 Polish for Furniture, 
 
 
 
 Economical, 
 
 
 390 
 
 Polishing Wood Carvings, 
 
 362, 
 
 3'M 
 
 To Remove, 
 
 
 390 
 
 PORTIERES— 
 
 
 
 To Destroy, 
 
 
 390 
 
 Various for Doors, Halls, and Win- 
 
 
 Fire- Proof for Roofs, 
 
 
 390 
 
 dows, 
 
 
 259 
 
 For Blackboards, 
 
 
 391 
 
 How to Make Them, 
 
 
 260 
 
 Compound Fire-Proof for Wood- 
 
 
 Of Chinese Embroidery, 
 
 
 260 
 
 work, 
 
 
 391 
 
 Made from Waste Material, 
 
 
 261 
 
 To Prevent Rust, 
 
 
 392 
 
 Use of Smyrna Blankets 
 
 anci 
 
 
 PAINTING— 
 
 
 
 " Prayer Carpets," 
 
 
 262 
 
 Best Time to Paint, 
 
 3SS 
 
 167 
 
 Preserving Autumn Leaves, 
 
 
 3S0 
 
 Kinds of Paint, 
 
 
 168 
 
 Pretty Idea in Screen Decoration 
 
 
 270 
 
 Colors Used, 
 
 
 168 
 
 Principles of Taste, 
 
 
 265 
 
 Mixing Colors, 
 
 
 169 
 
 Pure Water, 
 
 
 o- 
 
 Oils and Driers, 
 
 
 169 
 
 Pure White Lead, 
 
 
 168 
 
 Applying Paints, 
 
 
 170 
 
 
 
 
 Priming, 
 
 
 170 
 
 Quilt, A Japanese, 
 
 273 
 
 279 
 
 Second Coat, 
 
 
 171 
 
 
 
 
 Finishing Coat, 
 
 
 171 
 
 Recent Improvements in Needle-Work 
 
 234 
 
 Brushes and Tools, 
 
 172, 
 
 175 
 
 Reception-Room, The, 
 
 
 288 
 
 General Suggestions on Outside 
 
 
 RECIPES FOR— 
 
 
 
 Work, 
 
 
 172 
 
 Dyeing, 
 
 
 364 
 
 Inside Work, 
 
 
 174 
 
 Bleaching, 
 
 
 371 
 
 Oil and Shellac Finish, 
 
 
 174 
 
 Health, 
 
 
 877 
 
 To Paint Old Work, 
 
 
 3S9 
 
 Home Decoration, 
 
 
 SSO 
 
 Graining, 
 
 
 175 
 
 Toilet, 
 
 
 8S2 
 
 Ash Graining, 
 
 
 177 
 
 Paints, 
 
 
 888 
 
 Old Oak Graining, 
 
 
 177 
 
 Staining Woods, 
 
 
 892 
 
 Bird's-Eye Maple Graining, 
 
 
 177 
 
 Cleaning and Scouring, 
 
 
 394 
 
 Mahogany Graining, 
 
 
 178 
 
 Cleaning Fabrics, 
 
 
 886 
 
 Recipes for, 
 
 
 388 
 
 Cements, 
 
 
 403 
 
 Parlor, Library, Etc., How to Finish, 
 
 188 
 
 Cooking, 
 
 
 417 
 
 Paste, How to Make, 
 
 
 229 
 
 RECIPES, MISCELLANEOUS— 
 
 
 40S 
 
 Patriotic Screen, A, 
 
 
 274 
 
 To Renew Manuscripts, 
 
 
 toe 
 
 Pavements of Encaustic Tiles, 
 
 
 282 
 
 Tracing Paper, 
 
 
 COB 
 
 Picturesque Gothic House, (with ill.) 
 
 130 
 
 Transfer Paper, 
 
 
 409 
 
 Piecework, Japanese, 
 
 
 273 
 
 To Mend Amber, 
 
 
 109 
 
 Pincushion in Embroidery, 
 
 
 242 
 
 Bronzing Wood, 
 
 
 4. | 
 
 Plan for Cheap but Excellent 
 
 Farm 
 
 
 To Remove Screws, 
 
 
 410 
 
 and Carriage Barn. (2 ill.) 
 
 
 159 
 
 To Make Putty, 
 
 
 410 
 
 PLASTERING, 
 
 To Measure, 
 Plates for Rafters, 
 Plumbing and Fitting, 
 Plushes for Needle-Work, 
 Plush Stitch, 
 
 PAOK. 
 
 76, L6S 
 288 
 
494 
 
 GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 For Sealing-Wax, 
 
 411 
 
 For Cleaning' Harness, 
 
 411 
 
 For Harness Blacking. 
 
 412 
 
 For Harness Composition, 
 
 412 
 
 To Destroy Bed -Bugs, 
 
 412 
 
 To Make Non -Corrosive Ink, 
 
 413 
 
 For Invisible Ink, 
 
 413 
 
 For Green Ink, 
 
 413 
 
 For Blue Ink, 
 
 413 
 
 To Make Soap-Bubbles, 
 
 413 
 
 To Prevent Rusting, 
 
 414 
 
 To Prevent Lead's Exploding, 
 
 414 
 
 To Repair Rubber Hose, 
 
 414 
 
 To Keep Wagon Tires on, 
 
 414 
 
 The Tempering Secret, 
 
 415 
 
 Test for Counterfeit Silver, 
 
 416 
 
 RECIPES— 
 
 
 Dyeing Woolens, 
 
 367 
 
 Ebonizing Wood, 
 
 267, 3S2 
 
 Varnish for Common Work, 
 
 3S5 
 
 Furniture Varnish, 
 
 3S5 
 
 RECIPES, TOILET— 
 
 
 Hair, To Beautify the, 
 
 333 
 
 Hair Gloss, 
 
 332 
 
 Hair Wash, 
 
 3S2 
 
 Hair Lotion, 
 
 332 
 
 Hair Brushes, To Clean, 
 
 3S3 
 
 Teeth, To Beautify the, 
 
 3S3 
 
 Tooth Powder, 
 
 3S3 
 
 Tooth Wash, 
 
 3S3 
 
 Bloom of Roses, 
 
 3S3 
 
 Bloom of Youth, 
 
 3S3 
 
 Violet Powder, 
 
 3S4 
 
 Aromatic Vinegar, 
 
 3S4 
 
 Camphor Ice, 
 
 384 
 
 Cold Cream, 
 
 3S4 
 
 For Rough or Chapped Hands, 
 
 334 
 
 To Take Stains off the Skin, 
 
 334 
 
 Acacia Sachet, 
 
 3S4 
 
 Pot-Pourri Sachet Powder, 
 
 3S5 
 
 Remodeling' Windows, 
 
 153 
 
 Revolving Ventilator, The, 
 
 96 
 
 Roofs and Gables, Improving of, 
 
 152 
 
 Roofs and Trimmings, 
 
 SO 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Satin for Fancy Work, 236 
 
 Scarf for Book -Cases, 239 
 
 Scarf for Pianos, 256 
 SCREENS— 
 
 Their Variety and Uses, 266 
 How to Make Them, (with ill.) 267 
 Bamboo and Fire Screens, 268 
 Use of an Old Clothes-Horse, 269 
 Method of Covering and Decorat- 
 ing, 269 
 A Pretty Idea, 270 
 Appropriate Figures from Nature, 271 
 A Stationary Screen, 271 
 In Embroidery, 272 
 Old Clothes-Horse Screen, 277 
 Japanese Piecework, 273 
 A Patriotic Subject, 274 
 Odd Fan, 275 
 Lamp, 275 
 SCROLL SAWING, 335 
 Practical Lessons in, (with ilL) 340 
 Selecting Healthy Site, 97 
 Selecting Flowers, 304 
 Sewage, Good System of, 98 
 Shade Trees, 101 
 Shaker Rocking-Chair Cushions, 248 
 Sheathing Paper, 42 
 Shellac Finish, 174 
 Shingling, 42 
 Shingles, No. Required for a Roof, 166 
 Shrubbery, 101 
 Shutters and Blinds, 82 
 Sick -Room, Disinfectants for, 377 
 Silhouettes in Scroll-Work, 345 
 Silk Counterpanes in Embroidery, 244 
 Silk Rag Carpet, 261 
 Simple Adornments that Add to Com- 
 fort, 
 Simple Cottage, A, with Successive 
 Enlargements [Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6] from 
 Design I., 
 Skeletonizing Leaves, 
 Soil for the Flower Garden, 
 SOLID GOTHIC HOUSE— 
 
 Description of the Plan, (with ill.) 132 
 
 130 
 
 105 
 380 
 305 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 40.", 
 
 ] 
 Cost of Erection, 
 
 •AOK. 
 
 134 
 
 Sowing of Flower Seeds, 
 
 305 
 
 Sponge, To Bleach, 
 
 371 
 
 STAINING WOODS— 
 
 
 Directions for, 
 
 392 
 
 Walnut, (2 Recipes) 
 
 393 
 
 Black, 
 
 393 
 
 Black, for Immediate Use, 
 
 393 
 
 Ebony, 267 
 
 ,393 
 
 Cherry, 
 
 393 
 
 STAIRCASES— 
 
 
 Directions for Building, 
 
 51 
 
 Rear or Back, 
 
 52 
 
 STAMPING— 
 
 
 Producing the Design, 
 
 240 
 
 Transferring Design, 
 
 240 
 
 Slate Roofs, 
 
 79 
 
 Steam Heating, 
 
 93 
 
 Stem or Tent Stitch in Needle-Work, 
 
 237 
 
 Stone-Work, 
 
 163 
 
 Stone Trimmings for Brick Houses, 
 
 60 
 
 Storm Doors, 
 
 89 
 
 Straw Hats, To Color, 
 
 370 
 
 Straw Goods, To Bleach, 
 
 371 
 
 Studding, 
 
 78 
 
 Suggestions on Building, 32, 
 
 163 
 
 Suggestions on Beautifying the Sur- 
 
 
 roundings at Little Expense, 
 
 148 
 
 Summer Cottage, How to Build, 
 
 143 
 
 Summer House, To Construct, 
 
 146 
 
 Sunlight, a House that Admits to Every 
 
 
 Room, (with ill.) 
 
 125 
 
 Sweating of Brick Walls, How to Pre- 
 
 
 vent, 
 
 60 
 
 Table-Cover, Ornamental, (with ill.) 
 Table Scarf in Darned Work, 
 Tables, to Renovate, 
 Tanks, Hints on, 
 Tatted Doyley, 
 
 Tempering Secret of the U. S. Govern- 
 ment, 
 Terraces, 
 Testing Cement, 
 Tin Roofs and Trimmings, 
 
 PAOK. 
 
 Tidy on Linen Crash, 247 
 TOILET RECIPES— 
 
 Hair Gloss, 3S2 
 
 Hair Oil, 882 
 
 Hair Wash, 882 
 
 Hair Lotion, 382 
 
 Hair, To Beautify the, 883 
 
 Hair Brushes, To Clean, 3^'S 
 
 Teeth, To Beautify the, 833 
 
 Tooth Powder, 3s:{ 
 
 Tooth Wash, 3S3 
 Bloom of Roses, 
 
 Bloom of Youth, 3S3 
 Violet Powder, 
 
 Aromatic Vinegar, 384 
 
 Camphor Ice, :;-t 
 
 Cold Cream, 3s4 
 
 For Rough or Chapped Hands, 3S4 ' 
 
 To Take Stains off the Skin, 384 
 
 Acacia Sachet, 3s4 
 
 Pot-Pourri Sachet Powder, 385 
 
 Toilet-Stand, Drapery for, 299 
 
 Train Stitch in Needle- Work, 257 
 
 Transferring Designs for Embroidery, 240 
 
 TREE PLANTING— 
 
 Best Time for, 202 
 
 Time for Removing, 203 
 
 Excellent Kinds to Plant, 205 
 
 Trimmings and Roofs, SO 
 
 Tripods, 268 
 
 Use up the Pieces, _>1 
 
 60 
 
 Varnish Brushes, 
 
 17^ 
 
 
 Varnish Finish, 
 
 173, 174 
 
 278 
 
 VARNISHES— 
 
 
 257 
 
 How to Varnish Furniture, 
 
 385 
 
 277 
 
 For Common Work, 
 
 3S5 
 
 S6 
 
 Table Varnish, 
 
 886 
 
 246 
 
 Turpentine Varnish, 
 
 3?6 
 
 
 For Furniture, 
 
 386 
 
 415 
 
 Common, 
 
 386 
 
 189 
 
 White, 
 
 3?6 
 
 71 
 
 Furniture Polish, 
 
 3-6 
 
 80 
 
 Water-Proof, 
 
 ;;-: 
 
496 
 
 GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 For Boots and Shoes, 
 
 Golden Varnish, 
 
 For Iron-Work, 
 Veining Ingrain-Work, 
 Velveteen Portiere Coverings, 
 Veneer Brick and Stone-Work, 
 Ventilation, How to Effect it, (with 111.) 94 
 Ventilator, Revolving, 96 
 
 WALL-PAPERS- 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 387 
 387 
 388 
 176 
 262 
 58 
 
 Instructions How to Hang, 
 
 226 
 
 Sizing the Walls, 
 
 227 
 
 Quantity in a Roll, 
 
 227 
 
 How to Cut and Match, 
 
 228 
 
 To Make and Apply the Paste, 
 
 229 
 
 For Walls and Ceilings, 
 
 215 
 
 To Select the Best, 
 
 216 
 
 Hints on Choosing, 217, 
 
 219 
 
 For Parlor or Drawing-Room, 
 
 220 
 
 For Library, 
 
 221 
 
 For Bed-Room, 
 
 221 
 
 For Dining-Room, 
 
 222 
 
 fALLS AND CEILINGS— 
 
 
 General Remarks, 214 
 
 215 
 
 Various Modes of Treatment, 
 
 230 
 
 Calcimining, 
 
 230 
 
 Whitewash, 
 
 231 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Lime-Wash, 231 
 
 Whitewash for Brick-Work, (with 
 
 illustration) 232 
 
 Remedy for Damp, 391 
 
 Wardrobe and Bedstead Combined, 29S 
 Water-Colors for Screen Decoration, 271 
 Wet or Damp Cellars, How to Remedy, 75 
 Whiten Lace, To, 371 
 
 White Lead, Pure, 168 
 
 WINDOWS— 
 
 Adding of Bay, 150 
 
 Ground Glass, To Imitate, 881 
 
 Improving of, 153 
 
 Window Gardening, (with ill.) 327 
 
 WOOD CARVING— 
 
 Its Origin and History, 351 
 
 Tools and How to Use Them, (with 
 
 illustration.) 
 Instruction in the Art, 
 Carving a Wall Pocket, 
 Relief Carving, 
 Carved Fret-Work, 
 Finishing, 
 
 Wood, Ebonized, 
 
 Woolens, To Dye all Colore, 
 
 Zinc, 
 
 352 
 354 
 357 
 359 
 360 
 362 
 267, 382 
 367 
 
 ies 
 
3nPPIiEJJE]WflL INDEX 
 
 -— <TO: 
 
 :KiriSEIID IllflOI, 
 
 ANILINE DYES— 
 
 Magenta, Crimson, and Violet, 
 
 Scarlets, Cardinals, 
 
 Pink, Orange, 
 
 Nicholson Blue, 
 
 Brown, Yellow, Green, 
 Applique Design for a Mantel 
 
 or Window, 
 Applique Design, Cut of, 
 Art Amateur, The, 
 Art of Preserving Flowers, 
 Art of Transferring Pictures, 
 
 Baby's Crib, Cover for, 
 Bags and Sachets, 
 Barbatin Ware, Imitation, 
 Basket, Imitation Coral, 
 Baskets for Waste Paper, 
 Border, Design for, 
 Brush and Pigment, 
 Bridal Flowers, to Preserve, 
 Bowl Painting', 
 
 Carriage Rugs, 
 
 Convex Glass for Photo Painting, 
 Coral Hanging Basket, 
 Colors in Arrangement of Flowers, 
 Corner, Design for, 
 Crystallizing Grass, 
 Curtains and Lambrequin, 
 . Curtains, Cut of, 
 Crystal Ambrotypes, 
 
 Decorating Flower-Pots. 
 DESIGNS— 
 
 Fur a Border 
 
 For a Corner or Center in Em- 
 broidery, 
 
 For Curtains and Lambrequin, 
 
 For a Sofa Pillow, 
 
 rAUB. 
 
 
 
 •AUP 
 
 
 For a Mantel in Applique W 
 
 ork, 
 
 284 
 
 366 
 
 For a Lace Lambrequin, 
 
 
 
 366, 357 
 
 For Fish-Scale Embroidery, 
 
 
 350 
 
 367 
 
 DECALCOMANIA— 
 
 
 
 367 
 
 Its Uses, 
 
 
 347 
 
 387, 368 
 
 Materials, 
 
 
 ::i7 
 
 283 
 
 DYES, ANILINE— 
 
 
 
 284 
 
 The Best, 
 
 
 366 
 
 342 
 
 Dissolving, 
 
 
 366 
 
 333 
 
 For Wool, 
 
 
 366 
 
 347 
 
 For Cotton , 
 
 
 
 
 Suggestions, 
 
 
 36^ 
 
 351 
 
 
 
 
 351 1 
 
 Embroidered Cover for a Baby's 
 
 Crib, 
 
 37,1 
 
 342 
 
 EMBROIDERY STITCHES 
 
 
 
 351 
 
 Embroidery with Pish S ales, 
 
 
 34!) 
 
 352 
 
 Stem Stitch, 
 
 
 233 
 
 235 
 
 Blanket Stitch, (with 2 ill-.) 
 
 
 238 
 
 339 
 
 Chain Stitch, (with ill.) 
 
 
 234 
 
 335 
 
 Twisted Chain Stitch, (with i 
 
 11.) 
 
 
 344 
 
 Satin Stitch, (with ill.) 
 
 
 234 
 
 
 Knot Stitch, 
 
 
 237, 
 
 353 
 
 Herring-Bone Stitch, (with 2 
 
 ill.) 
 
 285 
 
 345 
 
 Kensington Outline Stitch, ( 
 
 vith 
 
 
 351 
 
 illustration) 
 
 
 236 
 
 336 
 
 Janlna Stitch, (with ill.) 
 
 
 236 
 
 237 
 
 Basket Stitch, (with ill.) 
 
 
 237 
 
 336 
 
 Featherstitch, (with ill.) 
 
 
 237 
 
 282 
 
 Plush Stitch,(with ill) 
 
 238, 
 
 239 
 
 283 
 
 Elegant Table, An, 
 
 
 352 
 
 34 -> 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fan Painting, 
 
 
 .-!44 
 
 366 
 
 Fun^ for Flow cr Pots, 
 
 
 
 
 Killed Rugs, 
 
 
 
 236 
 
 FLOWERS 
 
 
 
 
 The Art of Pi. 
 
 
 
 237 
 
 Arrangement <>f. 
 
 
 
 283 
 
 Flower Pots, Decorating, 
 
 344, 
 
 
 284 
 
 Funeral Flowers, To Preserve, 
 
 
 
 197 
 
498 
 
 8 UP P LEWI EN TA L INI > EX. 
 
 PASK. 
 
 Glass, Convex for Photos, 345 
 
 Grass, To Crystallize, 336 
 
 Herring-Bone Stitch, 235 
 
 How to Paint Photographs, 345 
 
 How to Transfer Pictures, ^-IS 
 
 Imitation Barbatin ami Lamoges 
 
 Ware, 342 
 
 Janina Stitch, 236 
 
 Kensington Outline Stitch, 236 
 
 Knot Stitch, 235 
 
 Lace Lambrequin, (with ill.) 283, 285 
 
 Lambrequin and Curtains, 2S2 
 
 Lamoges Ware, Imitation, 342 
 
 Lamp-Shades, 354 
 
 LINCRUSTA-WALTON— 
 
 Remarks, 357 
 
 Of what Composed, 357 
 
 Its Uses, 357 
 
 Beauty, 357 
 
 Effects, 358 
 
 Method of Applying to Walls, 357 
 
 Illustration, 358 
 
 MATERIALS— 
 
 For Embroidery, 231, 232 
 For Lambrequins and Cur- 
 tains, 282, 283 
 For Oil Painting, 339 
 For Photo-Enameling, 345 
 For Transferring Pictures, 347 
 
 NATURAL FLOWERS, TO PRESERVE- 
 
 Remarks, 333 
 
 By the Sand Process, 333, 334 
 
 By the Sulphur Process, 334 
 
 By the Paraffine Process, 335 
 
 OIL PAINTING 
 Remarks, 
 
 339 
 
 
 V 
 
 \OK. 
 
 Subjects for, 
 
 341, 
 
 342 
 
 Materials Necessary, 
 
 
 339 
 
 Panels, 
 
 
 340 
 
 Plaques, 
 
 
 341 
 
 Silk, Satin, and Plush, 
 
 
 343 
 
 Imitation Barbatin Ware, 
 
 
 342 
 
 Fans and Bowls, 
 
 
 3-14 
 
 Oval Picture Frames, 
 
 
 351 
 
 Oil Colors, A New Material for, 
 
 
 342 
 
 PAINTING IN OIL COLORS— 
 
 
 
 Instructions in the Art, 
 
 339, 
 
 340 
 
 Panels, 
 
 
 340 
 
 Plaques, 
 
 
 341 
 
 Plush, 
 
 
 343 
 
 Pots for Flowers, 
 
 
 344 
 
 Photographs, 
 
 345, 
 
 347 
 
 Pictures, How to Transfer to 
 
 
 
 Wood, etc., 
 
 
 347 
 
 Picture Frames, To Make, 
 
 
 351 
 
 Preserving Natural Flowers, 
 
 
 333 
 
 RUGS— 
 
 
 
 Of Silk Rags, 
 
 
 352 
 
 Of Sheepskin, 
 
 
 353 
 
 For Carriages, 
 
 
 353 
 
 Sand Process for Preserving Fl 
 
 iwers, 
 
 333 
 
 Sofa Pillow, (with ill.') 
 
 28: 
 
 -284 
 
 Stitches. Embroidery, 
 
 33S 
 
 -338 
 
 334 
 
 Sulphur Process for Preserving 
 
 Flowers, 
 
 Silks and Satin, To paint in Oil Colors, 343 
 Sheepskins, To Tan and Color for 
 
 Rugs, 353 
 
 Table, How to Make, 
 Tanning Sheepskin. 
 Transfer Pictures, 
 Tissue Paper Lamp-Shades, 
 
 Waste- Paper Basket, 
 Water Colors, 
 
 352 
 353 
 347 
 354 
 
 352 
 344 
 

 
■•■<^^c.*3e<:--i-<st3«cr^l£s^"cV£; <«r c<X .' ewfkrcr. «^ c s 
 
 cxg i c.'-ciscr «gt<gr"'& t<s'c f 7 ^. c^cr.c soccer ^^^ « 
 
 cc v-qcccc -«sk cc ?<sc c3i«sc,cjC: c cwcc «&£ <C 
 
 Late 
 _ tic: 
 
 ■ovsr 
 «SCc < 
 
 <:cc "< c 
 
 «&X CC 
 
 C «ET « ■;■: <Z 
 
 J5CQC;'CC€ 
 
 c<ec <5§cc e> 
 
 ^ •■ cosacr~<ssiE^i crc c c<gr c «^<^ rf c««3pc ^S&.\ ■ cc ? 
 #-'Cc5^ AC< ^^^- CZkrc'cm-i^dCJ^^i^^l 'cc 
 
 ~<-r c : ■ ^CJSS!^-"'' ^ *=* "-'— CC<<rCc: <c c <pr*cvr. rgr^cc-- cjg^.*' 
 
 ^^sc^^e' <Cc ' < <r«xrc* -c ci *aC<? <f^C5 l * ■. - e'e • 
 > , C Cu^' ^r^<icr , CjCCi'A c^T^c rC4E< , CT c 
 
 
 & Z 
 
 C €£3- 
 
 P^^^c^itez] ;•«■'.■< cat 
 
 ^.<Q,- <&Cjc&: '^ <£1 <jC<3: 'X:.aO «,CT:<8t: "£< ■ « 
 
 Sr <c:,. CL : vegtjK*-5Tc3e?ara^CI -Ce^C « 
 
 ■v<c:^- cr 
 
 ■<CcME 
 
 Ctc; <£Ci 
 
 c^ac^'O^K^cSKi;^^<j<i:« c:c 
 
 
 . C; CC<t ■< '<33C7 tree fCTCs <!<? : c<r cxa».„ cr^S^ c « 
 
 -"3 ' & *s£lS3CCi.-. Ce© iC" CC" :(CC ff , <x c 
 
 CCC«SB?^C. 
 
 
 jOcp^ccsac- <c:c ^;- Cv cct: v < 
 
 K rccccr" «& .^-C rex c 
 CCCC G&tibfJiF -«.cc>- Vc Vex: i 
 
 C- '.-r f 
 
 f ■■"'(- *5^ <co'c<«cCc c: til- " <<S^:<''- 'C@kcc<x~<sst<: 
 
 CC ; - «csk: c cc^ccc 'CI" " 
 
 'CC 
 "if. '■ rf - 
 
 -C.'<Cl 
 
 _ccm«C3_«c^ 
 
 5. c 
 
 «ci 
 
 CCC:< 
 
 
 cc: 
 
 • c<c 
 
 ff" <" 
 
 '. ■ cr?. 
 
 c<c -c 
 
 ^' 
 
 ■' <ST;vi 
 
 :cccr< 
 
 c 
 
 CC" 
 
 cc^cr* 
 
 ( 
 
 cSf cc 
 
 cc; 
 
 c 
 
 €3T"< 
 
 ^ct s 
 
 
 C'.i. ■ 
 
 ■ f «r x- 
 
:«8Fc"C<* : -ft 0* 
 
 CC Cr< 
 
 re 
 
 7* X ^C <"t 
 
 _ ■4K Ctf c" CC c ■ 
 
 «C<r. <.rc •- to < 
 
 «*X <:fZCC c« < , 
 
 ~<§:ec^c f cm:'- 
 
 «. < f re.'- 
 
 _T«S c <rc 
 
 c"« < ccc 
 
 CCC «.. «-< 
 
 X c <xtl.C: «r c 
 
 ■c C 'CCC cr «CT r 
 
 c e " r i 
 
 <r<* c 
 
 *£cCCCcJcC c cere? 
 
 rccc: ! ^ccv<ro<S8zf| 
 
 c cc ic" «rrcrc.*r c <ccy 
 Ccc .C atgCCoc <*&& 
 r ccV" «tf£Xct< cr «r c<«r«_ 
 
 xr v r «t^f^cc c <<r<?r: < 
 : crcr «ccorr7<rc < cc< '<r>cr . < 
 
 3 l «K3t~t?'f C CCC c_ 
 
 ) < €3c<t<rc^c<z tree 33r 
 g «t<s^CC <3g c^ o ■ 
 
 C«L"<G' Ci're «£« c*C « 
 
 C^CCM c<cc «x<§r <? .' 
 '-: , "-. occi ■■ ccc <sc«c <c - 
 
 <r< c con c«gr~ c 
 
 °C C C4&C7;. CCC4Z- c CT (C'<C C 
 
 <S c. cc<^rr<X?' <^^<c/r< r 
 <C .<; c cc Xc<r c 
 
 • c- cr : ' .cf-cf 
 
 TGL < *?: C4C C 
 
 wews <c<; ' c tx:o 
 
 <? C <? C <€T~ ' wf-'< < 
 Z_i •••« 
 
 ■c ■ ■ cc< c~^*2L <%?- '-; 
 
 tec: 
 
 It' "C c 
 
 
 
 ■ i C 4ET- CC X' 
 
 
 c '.<:«r jc;c 
 
 « rCfC;j<X 
 
 
 Cc cxk^C X 
 
 <r<c X- 
 
 ^ Ct- -4' 
 
 < ■;■ ! - <r« ot 
 <Xi «£.<£ 
 C ^^ 
 
 .^<x 5^ c fS 
 
 re <^ x 
 
 rye cry x ^ 
 
 rcctc?" : -'<x<jr~ 
 
 cc-«^x^<:^ Ci^c: ccc ^ 
 
 ., OOCL *CC~X ■ cc< <3C § CC < '< 
 
 Sc:%<9G'Cc <CC«:'CC( c 
 
 ""gxC"<3CL.<c<^.c 
 
 ccccc c: ^c ccr 
 i: -cxcr ^ : J£-S^ xjg < 
 
 ^trccrc: c < <-c <vc cere 
 
 rctccaxc :^l c^ 
 
 'CC.CC OcCC <T^ CCCC 
 "«fCCC C <C^<g -CCCC& 
 
 ^"c?,crcx 
 
 <? c CC c 
 
 Cc cere 
 
 cccxc c 
 
 ■c c<c < 
 
 etc 
 
 r CC^« 
 
 C CCC C 
 
 C/XCC 
 
 cccc cc c 
 C&C Cc(X< 
 "ccc: Cdc^c* 
 
 _ccc cc «"5< 
 
 c c or c ; 
 
 ct' Cc<: -<^cc 
 
 c =< CC 
 
 o. 'crcC. r 
 X c<ac 
 
 <c cc c 
 
 CCCCCC <.c. 
 
 CCC 
 _ f c Ccccs: 
 
 :CC 
 
 iC-C 
 
 ■ c. 
 
 GETTY RESEARCH INSTITUTE 
 
 3 3125 01216 2216 
 
 5^ C <S 5^r 
 
 % c c cc. < cr<^_C < »C 
 
 cc occ<r .«. c 'x. • 
 
 c c ■,<:•<<: cc C r '- 
 
 - acocx^ccxxo c< 
 
 >((\:cC'C cccc a 
 
 :V c^<<:lc- ( :<^«